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+The Project Gutenberg eBook of First and Last, by H. Belloc
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
+most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
+of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
+www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you
+will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before
+using this eBook.
+
+Title: First and Last
+
+Author: H. Belloc
+
+Release Date: April 19, 2003 [eBook #7352]
+[Most recently updated: May 1, 2023]
+
+Language: English
+
+Produced by: Tonya Allen, Eric Eldred, Charles Franks, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST AND LAST ***
+
+
+
+
+FIRST AND LAST
+
+BY H. BELLOC
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+ ON WEIGHING ANCHOR
+ THE REVEILLON
+ ON CHEESES
+ THE CAPTAIN OF INDUSTRY
+ THE INVENTOR
+ THE VIEWS OF ENGLAND
+ THE LUNATIC
+ THE INHERITANCE OF HUMOUR
+ THE OLD GENTLEMAN’S OPINIONS
+ ON HISTORICAL EVIDENCE
+ THE ABSENCE OF THE PAST
+ ST. PATRICK
+ THE LOST THINGS
+ ON THE READING OF HISTORY
+ THE VICTORY
+ REALITY
+ ON THE DECLINE OF THE BOOK
+ JOSÉ MARIA DE HEREDIA
+ NORMANDY AND THE NORMANS
+ THE OLD THINGS
+ THE BATTLE OF HASTINGS
+ THE ROMAN ROADS IN PICARDY
+ THE REWARD OF LETTERS
+ THE EYE-OPENERS
+ THE PUBLIC
+ ON ENTRIES
+ COMPANIONS OF TRAVEL
+ ON THE SOURCES OF RIVERS
+ ON ERROR
+ THE GREAT SIGHT
+ THE DECLINE OF A STATE
+ ON PAST GREATNESS
+ MR. THE DUKE: THE MAN OF MALPLAQUET
+ THE GAME OF CARDS
+ “KING LEAR”
+ THE EXCURSION
+ THE TIDE
+ ON A GREAT WIND
+ THE LETTER
+ THE REGRET
+ THE END OF THE WORLD
+
+
+
+
+FIRST AND LAST
+
+
+
+
+On Weighing Anchor
+
+
+Personally I should call it “Getting It up,” but I have always seen it
+in print called “weighing anchor”—and if it is in print one must bow to
+it. It does weigh.
+
+There are many ways of doing it. The best, like all good things, has
+gone for ever, and this best way was for a thing called a capstan to
+have sticking out from it, movable, and fitted into its upper rim,
+other things called capstan-bars. These, men would push singing a song,
+while on the top of the capstan sat a man playing the fiddle, or the
+flute, or some other instrument of music. You and I have seen it in
+pictures. Our sons will say that they wish they had seen it in
+pictures. Our sons’ sons will say it is all a lie and was never in
+anything but the pictures, and they will explain it by some myth or
+other.
+
+Another way is to take two turns of a rope round a donkey-engine,
+paying in and coiling while the engine clanks. And another way on
+smaller boats is a sort of jack arrangement by which you give little
+jerks to a ratchet and wheel, and at last It looses Its hold. Sometimes
+(in this last way) It will not loose Its hold at all.
+
+Then there is a way of which I proudly boast that it is the only way I
+know, which is to go forward and haul at the line until It comes—or
+does not come. If It does not come, you will not be so cowardly or so
+mean as to miss your tide for such a trifle. You will cut the line and
+tie a float on and pray Heaven that into whatever place you run, that
+place will have moorings ready and free.
+
+When a man weighs anchor in a little ship or a large one he does a
+jolly thing! He cuts himself off and he starts for freedom and for the
+chance of things. He pulls the jib a-weather, he leans to her slowly
+pulling round, he sees the wind getting into the mainsail, and he feels
+that she feels the helm. He has her on a slant of the wind, and he
+makes out between the harbour piers. I am supposing, for the sake of
+good luck, that it is not blowing bang down the harbour mouth, nor, for
+the matter of that, bang out of it. I am supposing, for the sake of
+good luck to this venture, that in weighing anchor you have the wind so
+that you can sail with it full and by, or freer still, right past the
+walls until you are well into the tide outside. You may tell me that
+you are so rich and your boat is so big that there have been times when
+you have anchored in the very open, and that all this does not apply to
+you. Why, then, your thoughts do not apply to me nor to the little boat
+I have in mind.
+
+In the weighing of anchor and the taking of adventure and of the sea
+there is an exact parallel to anything that any man can do in the
+beginning of any human thing, from his momentous setting out upon his
+life in early manhood to the least decision of his present passing day.
+It is a very proper emblem of a beginning. It may lead him to that kind
+of muddle and set-back which attaches only to beginnings, or it may get
+him fairly into the weather, and yet he may find, a little way outside,
+that he has to run for it, or to beat back to harbour. Or, more
+generously, it may lead him to a long and steady cruise in which he
+shall find profit and make distant rivers and continue to increase his
+log by one good landfall after another. But the whole point of weighing
+anchor is that he has chosen his weather and his tide, and that he is
+setting out. The thing is done.
+
+You will very commonly observe that, in land affairs, if good fortune
+follows a venture it is due to the marvellous excellence of its
+conductor, but if ill fortune, then to evil chance alone. Now, it is
+not so with the sea.
+
+The sea drives truth into a man like salt. A coward cannot long pretend
+to be brave at sea, nor a fool to be wise, nor a prig to be a good
+companion, and any venture connected with the sea is full of venture
+and can pretend to be nothing more. Nevertheless there is a certain
+pride in keeping a course through different weathers, in making the
+best of a tide, in using cats’ paws in a dull race, and, generally, in
+knowing how to handle the thing you steer and to judge the water and
+the wind. Just because men have to tell the truth once they get into
+tide water, what little is due to themselves in their success thereon
+they are proud of and acknowledge.
+
+If your sailing venture goes well, sailing reader, take a just pride in
+it; there will be the less need for me to write, some few years hence,
+upon the art of picking up moorings, though I confess I would rather
+have written on that so far as the fun of writing was concerned. For
+picking up moorings is a far more tricky and amusing business than
+Getting It up. It differs with every conceivable circumstance of wind,
+and tide, and harbour, and rig, and freeboard, and light; and then
+there are so many stories to tell about it! As—how once a poor man
+picked up a rich man’s moorings at Cowes and was visited by an
+aluminium boat, all splendid in the morning sun. Or again—how a
+stranger who had made Orford Haven (that very difficult place) on the
+very top of an equinoctial springtide, picked up a racing mark-buoy,
+taking it to be moorings, and dragged it with him all the way to
+Aldborough, and that right before the town of Orford, so making himself
+hateful to the Orford people.
+
+But I digress....
+
+
+
+
+The Reveillon
+
+
+There was in the regiment with which I served a man called Frocot,
+famous with his comrades because he had seen The Dead, for this
+experience, though common among the Scotch, is rare among the French, a
+sister nation. This man Frocot could neither write nor read, and was
+also the strongest man I ever knew. He was quite short and exceedingly
+broad, and he could break a penny with his hands, but this gift of
+strength, though young men value it so much, was thought little of
+compared with his perception of unseen things, for though the men, who
+were peasants, professed to laugh at it, and him, in their hearts they
+profoundly believed. It had been made clear to us that he could see and
+hear The Dead one night in January during a snowstorm, when he came in
+and woke me in barrack-room because he had heard the Loose Spur. Our
+spurs were not buckled on like the officers’; they were fixed into the
+heel of the boot, and if a nail loosened upon either side the spur
+dragged with an unmistakable noise. There was a sergeant who (for some
+reason) had one so loosened on the last night he had ever gone the
+rounds before his death, for in the morning as he came off guard he
+killed himself, and the story went about among the drivers that
+sometimes on stable guard in the thick of the night, when you watched
+all alone by the lantern (with your three comrades asleep in the straw
+of an empty stall), your blood would stop and your skin tauten at the
+sound of a loose spur dragging on the far side of the stable, in the
+dark. But though many had heard the story, and though some had
+pretended to find proof for it, I never knew a man to feel and know it
+except this man Frocot on that night. I remember him at the foot of my
+bed with his lantern waking me from the rooted sleep of bodily fatigue,
+standing there in his dark blue driver’s coat and staring with terrible
+eyes. He had undoubtedly heard and seen, but whether of himself from
+within, imagining, or, as I rather believe, from without and
+influenced, it is impossible to say. He was rough and poor, and he came
+from the Forest of Ardennes.
+
+The reason I remember him and write of him at this season is not,
+however, this particular and dreadful visitation of his, but a folly or
+a vision that befell him at this time of the year, now seventeen years
+ago; for he had Christmas leave and was on his way from garrison to his
+native place, and he was walking the last miles of the wood. It was the
+night before Christmas. It was clear, and there was no wind, but the
+sky was overcast with level clouds and the evening was very dark. He
+started unfed since the first meal of the day; it was dark three hours
+before he was up into the high wood. He met no one during all these
+miles, and his body and his mind were lonely; he hoped to press on and
+be at his father’s door before two in the morning or perhaps at one.
+The night was so still that he heard no noise in the high wood, not
+even the rustling of a leaf or a twig crackling, and no animal ran in
+the undergrowth. The moss of the ride was silent under his heavy tread,
+but now and then the steel of his side-arm clicked against a metal
+button of the great cloak he wore. This sharp sound made him so
+conscious of himself that he seemed to fill that forest with his own
+presence and to be all that was, there or elsewhere. He was in a mood
+of unreal and not holy things. The mood, remaining, changed its aspect,
+and now he was so far from alone that all the trunks around him and the
+glimmers of sky between bare boughs held each a spirit of its own, and
+with the powerful imagination of the unlearned he could have spoken and
+held communion with the trees; but it would have an evil communion, for
+he felt this mood of his take on a further phase as he went deeper and
+deeper still into these forests. He felt about him uneasily the sense
+of doom. He was in that exaltation of fancy or dream when faint appeals
+are half heard far off, but not by our human ears, and when whatever
+attempts to pierce the armour of our mortality appeals to us by wailing
+and by despairing sighs. It seemed to him that most unhappy things
+passed near him in the air, and that the wood about him was full of
+sobbing. Then, again, he felt his own mind within him begin to be
+occupied by doubtful troubles worse than these terrors, an anxious
+straining for ill news, for bitter and dreadful news, mixed with a
+confused certitude that such news had come indeed, disturbed and
+haunted him; and all the while about him in that stillness the rushing
+of unhappy spirits went like a secret storm. He was clouded with the
+mingled emotions of apprehension and of fatal mourning; he attempted to
+remember the expectations that had failed him, friends untrue, and the
+names of parents dead; but he was now the victim of this strange night
+and unable (whether from hunger or fatigue, or from that unique power
+of his to discern things beyond the world) to remember his life or his
+definite aims at all, or even his own name. He was mixed with the whole
+universe about him, and was suffering some loss so grievous that very
+soon the gait of his march and his whole being were informed by a large
+and final despair.
+
+It was in this great and universal mood (granted to him as a seer,
+though he was a common man) that he saw down the ride, but somewhat to
+one side of it in the heart of the high wood, a great light shining
+from a barn or shed that stood there in the undergrowth, and to this
+light, though his way naturally led him to it, he felt also impelled by
+an influence as strong as or stronger than the despair that had filled
+his soul and all the woods around. He went on therefore quickly,
+straining with his eyes, and when he came into the light that shone out
+from this he saw a more brilliant light within, and men of his own kind
+adoring; but the vision was confused, like light on light or like
+vapours moving over bright metals in a cauldron, and as he gazed his
+mind became still and the dread left him altogether. He said it was
+like shutting a gentleman’s great oaken door against a driving storm.
+
+This is the story he told me weeks after as we rode together in the
+battery, for he hid it in his heart till the spring. As I say, I
+believed him.
+
+He was an unlearned man and a strong; he never worshipped. He was of
+that plain stuff and clay on which has worked since all recorded time
+the power of the Spirit.
+
+He said that when he left (as he did rapidly leave) that light, peace
+also left him, but that the haunting terror did not return. He found
+the clearing and his father’s hut; fatigue and the common world indeed
+returned, but with them a permanent memory of things experienced.
+
+Every word I have written of him is true.
+
+
+
+
+On Cheeses
+
+
+If antiquity be the test of nobility, as many affirm and none deny
+(saving, indeed, that family which takes for its motto “Sola Virtus
+Nobilitas,” which may mean that virtue is the only nobility, but which
+may also mean, mark you, that nobility is the only virtue—and anyhow
+denies that nobility is tested by the lapse of time), _if_, I say,
+antiquity be the only test of nobility, then cheese is a very noble
+thing.
+
+But wait a moment: there was a digression in that first paragraph which
+to the purist might seem of a complicated kind.
+
+Were I writing algebra (I wish I were) I could have analysed my
+thoughts by the use of square brackets, round brackets, twiddly
+brackets, and the rest, all properly set out in order so that a Common
+Fool could follow them.
+
+But no such luck! I may not write of algebra here; for there is a rule
+current in all newspapers that no man may write upon any matter save
+upon those in which he is more learned than all his human fellows that
+drag themselves so slowly daily forward to the grave.
+
+So I had to put the thing in the very common form of a digression, and
+very nearly to forget that great subject of cheese which I had put at
+the very head and title of this.
+
+Which reminds me: had I followed the rule set down by a London
+journalist the other day (and of the proprietor of his paper I will say
+nothing—though I might have put down the remark to his proprietor) I
+would have hesitated to write that first paragraph. I would have
+hesitated, did I say? Griffins’ tails! Nay—Hippogriffs and other things
+of the night! I would not have dared to write it at all! For this
+journalist made a law and promulgated it, and the law was this: that no
+man should write that English which could not be understood if all the
+punctuation were left out. Punctuation, I take it, includes brackets,
+which the Lord of Printers knows are a very modern part of punctuation
+indeed.
+
+Now let the horripilised reader look up again at the first paragraph
+(it will do him no harm), and think how it would look all written out
+in fair uncials like the beautiful Gospels of St. Chad, which anyone
+may see for nothing in the cathedral of Lichfield, an English town
+famous for eight or nine different things: as Garrick, Doctor Johnson,
+and its two opposite inns. Come, read that first paragraph over now and
+see what you could make of it if it were written out in uncials—that
+is, not only without punctuation, but without any division between the
+words. Wow! As the philosopher said when he was asked to give a plain
+answer “Yes” or “No.”
+
+And now to cheese. I have had quite enough of digressions and of
+follies. They are the happy youth of an article. They are the
+springtime of it. They are its riot. I am approaching the middle age of
+this article. Let us be solid upon the matter of cheese.
+
+I have premised its antiquity, which is of two sorts, as is that of a
+nobleman. First, the antiquity of its lineage; secondly, the antiquity
+of its self. For we all know that when we meet a nobleman we revere his
+nobility very much if he be himself old, and that this quality of age
+in him seems to marry itself in some mysterious way with the antiquity
+of his line.
+
+The lineage of cheese is demonstrably beyond all record. What did the
+faun in the beginning of time when a god surprised him or a mortal had
+the misfortune to come across him in the woods? It is well known that
+the faun offered either of them cheese. So he knew how to make it.
+
+There are certain bestial men, hangers-on of the Germans, who would
+contend that this would prove cheese to be acquired by the Aryan race
+(or what not) from the Dolichocephalics (or what not), and there are
+certain horrors who descend to imitate these barbarians—though
+themselves born in these glorious islands, which are so steep upon
+their western side. But I will not detain you upon these lest I should
+fall head foremost into another digression and forget that my article,
+already in its middle age, is now approaching grey hairs.
+
+At any rate, cheese is very old. It is beyond written language. Whether
+it is older than butter has been exhaustively discussed by several
+learned men, to whom I do not send you because the road towards them
+leads elsewhere. It is the universal opinion of all most accustomed to
+weigh evidence (and in these I very properly include not only such
+political hacks as are already upon the bench but sweepingly every
+single lawyer in Parliament, since any one of them may tomorrow be a
+judge) that milk is older than cheese, and that man had the use of milk
+before he cunningly devised the trick of squeezing it in a press and by
+sacrificing something of its sweetness endowed it with a sort of
+immortality.
+
+The story of all this has perished. Do not believe any man who
+professes to give it you. If he tells you some legend of a god who
+taught the Wheat-eating Race, the Ploughers, and the Lords to make
+cheese, tell him such tales are true symbols, but symbols only. If he
+tells you that cheese was an evolution and a development, oh!
+then!—bring up your guns! Open on the fellow and sweep his intolerable
+lack of intelligence from the earth. Ask him if he discovers reality to
+be a function of time, and Being to hide in clockwork. Keep him on the
+hop with ironical comments upon how it may be that environment can act
+upon Will, while Will can do nothing with environment—whose proper name
+is mud. Pester the provincial. Run him off the field.
+
+But about cheese. Its noble antiquity breeds in it a noble diffusion.
+
+This happy Christendom of ours (which is just now suffering from an
+indigestion and needs a doctor—but having also a complication of
+insomnia cannot recollect his name) has been multifarious
+incredibly—but in nothing more than in cheese!
+
+One cheese differs from another, and the difference is in sweeps, and
+in landscapes, and in provinces, and in countrysides, and in climates,
+and in principalities, and in realms, and in the nature of things.
+Cheese does most gloriously reflect the multitudinous effect of earthly
+things, which could not be multitudinous did they not proceed from one
+mind.
+
+Consider the cheese of Rocquefort: how hard it is in its little box.
+Consider the cheese of Camembert, which is hard also, and also lives in
+a little box, but must not be eaten until it is soft and yellow.
+Consider the cheese of Stilton, which is not made there, and of
+Cheddar, which is. Then there is your Parmesan, which idiots buy rancid
+in bottles, but which the wise grate daily for their use: you think it
+is hard from its birth? You are mistaken. It is the world that hardens
+the Parmesan. In its youth the Parmesan is very soft and easy, and is
+voraciously devoured.
+
+Then there is your cheese of Wensleydale, which is made in Wensleydale,
+and your little Swiss cheese, which is soft and creamy and eaten with
+sugar, and there is your Cheshire cheese and your little Cornish
+cheese, whose name escapes me, and your huge round cheese out of the
+Midlands, as big as a fort whose name I never heard. There is your
+toasted or Welsh cheese, and your cheese of Pont-l’evêque, and your
+white cheese of Brie, which is a chalky sort of cheese. And there is
+your cheese of Neufchâtel, and there is your Gorgonzola cheese, which
+is mottled all over like some marbles, or like that Mediterranean soap
+which is made of wood-ash and of olive oil. There is your Gloucester
+cheese called the Double Gloucester, and I have read in a book of
+Dunlop cheese, which is made in Ayrshire: they could tell you more
+about it in Kilmarnock. Then Suffolk makes a cheese, but does not give
+it any name; and talking of that reminds me how going to Le Quesnoy to
+pass the people there the time of day, and to see what was left of that
+famous but forgotten fortress, a young man there showed me a cheese,
+which he told me also had no name, but which was native to the town,
+and in the valley of Ste. Engrace, where is that great wood which shuts
+off all the world, they make their cheese of ewe’s milk and sell it in
+Tardets, which is their only livelihood. They make a cheese in
+Port-Salut which is a very subtle cheese, and there is a cheese of
+Limburg, and I know not how many others, or rather I know them, but you
+have had enough: for a little cheese goes a long way. No man is a
+glutton on cheese.
+
+What other cheese has great holes in it like Gruyere, or what other is
+as round as a cannon-ball like that cheese called Dutch? which reminds
+me:—
+
+Talking of Dutch cheese. Do you not notice how the intimate mind of
+Europe is reflected in cheese? For in the centre of Europe, and where
+Europe is most active, I mean in Britain and in Gaul and in Northern
+Italy, and in the valley of the Rhine—nay, to some extent in Spain (in
+her Pyrenean valleys at least)—there flourishes a vast burgeoning of
+cheese, infinite in variety, one in goodness. But as Europe fades away
+under the African wound which Spain suffered or the Eastern barbarism
+of the Elbe, what happens to cheese? It becomes very flat and similar.
+You can quote six cheeses perhaps which the public power of Christendom
+has founded outside the limits of its ancient Empire—but not more than
+six. I will quote you 253 between the Ebro and the Grampians, between
+Brindisi and the Irish Channel.
+
+I do not write vainly. It is a profound thing.
+
+
+
+
+The Captain of Industry
+
+
+The heir of the merchant Mahmoud had not disappointed that great
+financier while he still lived, and when he died he had the
+satisfaction of seeing the young man, now twenty-five years of age,
+successfully conducting his numerous affairs, and increasing (fabulous
+as this may seem) the millions with which his uncle entrusted him.
+
+Shortly after Mahmoud’s death the prosperity of the firm had already
+given rise to a new proverb, and men said: “Do you think I am
+Mahmoud’s-Nephew?” when they were asked to lend money or in some other
+way to jeopardize a few coppers in the service of God or their
+neighbour.
+
+It was also a current expression, “He’s rich as Mahmoud’s-Nephew,” when
+comrades would jest against some young fellow who was flusher than
+usual, and could afford a quart or even a gallon of wine for the
+company; while again the discontented and the oppressed would mutter
+between their teeth: “Heaven will take vengeance at last upon these
+Mahmoud’s-Nephews!” In a word, “Mahmoud’s-Nephew” came to mean
+throughout the whole Caliphate and wherever the True Believers spread
+their empire, an exceedingly wealthy man. But Mahmoud himself having
+been dead ten years and his heir the fortunate head of the
+establishment being now well over thirty years of age, there happened a
+very inexplicable and outrageous accident: he died—and after his death
+no instructions were discovered as to what should be done with this
+enormous capital, no will could be found, and it happened moreover to
+be a moment of great financial delicacy when the manager of each
+department in the business needed all the credit he could get.
+
+In such a quandary the Chief Organizer and confidential friend, Ahmed,
+upon whom the business already largely depended, and who was so
+circumstanced that he could draw almost at will upon the balances,
+imagined a most intelligent way of escaping from the difficulties that
+would arise when the death of the principal was known.
+
+He caused a quantity of hay, of straw, of dust and of other worthless
+materials to be stuffed into a figure of canvas; this he wrapped round
+with the usual clothes that Mahmoud’s-Nephew had worn in the office, he
+shrouded the face with the hood which his chief had commonly worn
+during life, and having so dressed the lay figure and secretly buried
+the real body, he admitted upon the morning after the death those who
+first had business with his master.
+
+He met them at the door with smiles and bows, saying: “You know,
+gentlemen, that like most really successful men, my chief is as silent
+as his decisions are rapid; he will listen to what you have to say, and
+it will be a plain yes or no at the end of it.”
+
+These gentlemen came with a proposal to sell to the firm for the sum of
+one million dinars a barren rock in the Indian Sea, which was not even
+theirs, and on which indeed not one of them had ever set eyes. Their
+claim to advance so original a proposal was that to their certain
+knowledge two thousand of the wealthiest citizens of their town were
+willing to buy the rock again at a profit from whoever should be its
+possessor during the next few weeks in the fond hope of selling it once
+again to provincials, clerics, widows, orphans, and in general the
+uninstructed and the credulous—among whom had been industriously spread
+the report that the rock in question consisted of one solid and
+flawless diamond.
+
+These gentlemen sitting round the table before the shrouded figure laid
+down their proposals, whereupon the manager briefly summed up what they
+had said, and having done so, replied: “Gentlemen, his lordship is a
+man of few words; but you will have your answer in a moment if you will
+be good enough to rise, as he is at this moment expecting a deputation
+from the Holy Men who are entreating him to provide the cost of a
+mosque in one of the suburbs.”
+
+The proposers of the bargain rose, greatly awed and pleased by the
+silence and dignity of the financier who apparently remained for a
+moment discussing their proposals without gesture and in a tone too low
+for them to hear, while his manager bent over to listen.
+
+“It is ever so,” said one of them, “you may ever know the greatest men
+by their silence.”
+
+“You are right,” said another, “he is not one to be easily deceived.”
+
+The manager in a moment or two rejoined them at the door. “Gentlemen,”
+he said, smiling, “my chief has heard your arguments and has expressed
+his assent to your conditions.”
+
+They went out, delighted at the success of their mission, and
+congratulated Ahmed upon the financier’s genius.
+
+“He does not,” said the manager, laughing in hearty agreement, “bestow
+himself as a present upon all and sundry. Nor is he often caught
+indulging in short bouts of sleep, nor are flies diabolically left to
+repose undisturbed upon his features—but you must excuse me, I hear the
+Holy Men,” and indeed from the inner room came a noise of speechifying
+in that doleful sing-song which is associated in Bagdad with the
+practice of religion.
+
+The gentlemen who had thus had the luck to interview Mahmoud’s-Nephew
+with such success in the matter of the Diamond Island, soon spread
+about the news, and confirmed their fellow-citizens in the certitude
+that a great financier is neither talkative nor vivacious. “Still
+waters run deep,” they said, and all those to whom they said it nodded
+in a wise acquiescence. Nor had the Manager the least difficulty in
+receiving one set of customers after another and in negotiating within
+three weeks an infinite amount of business, all of which confirmed
+those who had the pleasure of an audience with the stuffed dummy that
+great fortunes were made and retained by reticence and a contempt for
+convivial weakness.
+
+At last the ingenious man of affairs, to whom the whole combination was
+due, was not a little disturbed to receive from the Caliph a note
+couched in the following terms:
+
+“The Commander of the Faithful and the Servant of the Merciful whose
+name be exalted, to the Nephew of Mahmoud:
+
+“My Lord:—
+
+“It has been the custom since the days of my grandfather (May his soul
+see God!) for the more wealthy of the Faithful to be called to my
+councils, and upon my summoning them thither it has not been unusual
+for them to present sums varying in magnitude but always proportionate
+to their total fortunes. My court will receive signal honour if you
+will present yourself after the morning prayer of the day after
+to-morrow. My treasurer will receive from you with gratitude and
+remembrance upon the previous day and not later than noon, the sum of
+one million dinars.”
+
+Here, indeed, was a perplexity. The payment of the money was an easy
+matter and was duly accomplished; but how should the lay figure which
+did duty in such domestic scenes as the negotiation of loans, the
+bullying of debtors, the purchase of options, and the cheating of the
+innocent and the embarrassed, take his place in the Caliph’s council
+and remain undiscovered? For great as was the reputation of
+Mahmoud’s-Nephew for discretion and for golden silence, such as are
+proper to the accumulation of great wealth, there would seem a
+necessity in any political assembly to open the mouth from time to
+time, if only for the giving of a vote.
+
+But Ahmed, who had by this time accumulated into his own hands the
+millions formerly his master’s, finally solved the problem. Judicious
+presents to the servants of the palace and the public criers made his
+way the easier, and on the summoning of the council Mahmoud’s-Nephew,
+whose troublesome affection of the throat was now publicly discussed,
+was permitted to bring into the council-room his private secretary and
+manager.
+
+Moreover at the council, as at his private office, the continued
+taciturnity of the millionaire could not but impress the politicians as
+it had already impressed the financial world.
+
+“He does not waste his breath in tub-thumping,” said one, looking
+reverently at the sealed figure.
+
+“No,” another would reply, “they may ridicule our old-fashioned,
+honest, quiet Mohammedan country gentlemen, but for common sense I will
+back them against all the brilliant paradoxical young fellows of our
+day.”
+
+“They say he is very kind at heart and lovable,” a third would then
+add, upon which a fourth would bear his testimony thus:
+
+“Yes, and though he says nothing about it, his charitable gifts are
+enormous.”
+
+By the second meeting of the council the lay figure had achieved a
+reputation of so high a sort that the Caliph himself insisted upon
+making him a domestic adviser, one of the three who perpetually
+associated with the Commander of the _Faithful_ and directed his
+policy. For the universal esteem in which the new councillor was held
+had affected that Prince very deeply.
+
+Here there arose a crux from which there could be no escape, as one of
+the three chief councillors, Mahmoud’s-Nephew, must speak at last and
+deliver judgments!
+
+The Manager, first considering the whole business, and next adding up
+his private gains, which he had carefully laid out in estates of which
+the firm and its employés knew nothing, decided that he could afford to
+retire. What might happen to the general business after his withdrawal
+would not be his concern.
+
+He first gave out, therefore, that the millionaire was taken
+exceedingly ill, and that his life was despaired of: later, within a
+few hours, that he was dead.
+
+So far from attempting to allay the panic which ensued, Ahmed frankly
+admitted the worst.
+
+With cries of despair and a confident appeal to the justice of Heaven
+against such intrigues, the honest fellow permitted the whole of the
+vast business to be wound up in favour of newcomers, who had not
+forgotten to reward him, and soothing as best he could the ruined
+crowds of small investors who thronged round him for help and advice,
+he retired under an assumed name to his highly profitable estates,
+which were situated in the most distant provinces of the known world.
+
+As for Mahmoud’s-Nephew, three theories arose about him which are still
+disputed to this day:
+
+The first was that his magnificent brain with its equitable judgment
+and its power of strict secrecy, had designed plans too far advanced
+for his time, and that his bankruptcy was due to excess of wisdom.
+
+The second theory would have it that by “going into politics” (as the
+phrase runs in Bagdad) he had dissipated his energies, neglected his
+business, and that the inevitable consequences had followed.
+
+The third theory was far more reasonable. Mahmoud’s-Nephew, according
+to this, had towards the end of his life lost judgment; his garrulous
+indecision within the last few days before his death was notorious: in
+the Caliph’s council, as those who should best know were sure, one
+could hardly get a word in edgewise for his bombastic self-assurance;
+while in matters of business, to conduct a bargain with him was more
+like attending a public meeting than the prosecution of negotiations
+with a respectable banker.
+
+In a word, it was generally agreed that Mahmoud’s-Nephew’s success had
+been bound up with his splendid silence, his fall, bankruptcy, and
+death, with a lesion of the brain which had disturbed this miracle of
+self-control.
+
+
+
+
+The Inventor
+
+
+I had a day free between two lectures in the south-west of England, and
+I spent it stopping at a town in which there was a large and very
+comfortable old posting-house or coaching-inn. I had meant to stay some
+few hours there and to take the last train out in the evening, and I
+had meant to spend those hours alone and resting; but this was not
+permitted me, for just as I had taken up the local paper, which was a
+humble, reasonable thing, empty of any passion and violence and very
+reposeful to read, a man came up and touched my left elbow sharply: a
+gesture not at all to my taste nor, I think, to that of anyone who is
+trying to read his paper.
+
+I looked up and saw a man who must have been quite sixty years of age.
+He had on a soft, felt slouch hat, a very old and greenish black coat;
+he stooped and shuffled; he was clean-shaven, with long grey hair, and
+his eyes were astonishingly bright and piercing and set close together.
+
+He said, “I beg your pardon.”
+
+I said, “Eh, what?”
+
+He said again “I beg your pardon” in the tones of a man who almost
+commands, and having said this he put his hat on the table, dragged a
+chair quite close to mine, and pulled a folded bunch of foolscap sheets
+out of his pocket. His manner was that of a man who engages your
+attention and has a right to engage it. There were no preliminaries and
+there was no introduction. This was apparently his manner, and I
+submitted.
+
+“I have here,” he said, fixing me with his intense eyes, “the plans for
+a speedometer.”
+
+“Oh!” said I.
+
+“You know what a speedometer is?” he asked suspiciously.
+
+I said yes. I said it was a machine for measuring the speed of
+vehicles, and that it was compounded of two (or more) Greek words.
+
+He nodded; he was pleased that I knew so much, and could therefore
+listen to his tale and understand it. He pulled his grey baggy trousers
+up over the knee, settled himself, sitting forward, and opened his
+document. He cleared his throat, still fixing me with those eyes of
+his, and said—
+
+“Every speedometer up to now has depended upon the same principle as a
+Watt’s governor; that is, there are two little balls attached to each
+by a limb to a central shaft: they rise and fall according to their
+speed of rotation, and this movement is indicated upon a dial.”
+
+I nodded.
+
+He cleared his throat again. “Of course, that is unsatisfactory.”
+
+“Damnably!” said I, but this reply did not check him.
+
+“It works tolerably well at high speeds; at low speeds it is useless;
+and then again there is a very rapid fluctuation, and the instrument is
+of only approximate precision.”
+
+“Not it!” said I to encourage him.
+
+“There is one exception,” he continued, “to this principle, and that is
+a speedometer which depends upon the introduction of resistance into a
+current generated by a small magneto. The faster the magneto turns the
+stronger the current generated, and the change is indicated upon a
+dial.”
+
+“Yes,” said I sadly, “as in the former case so in this; the change of
+speed is indicated upon a dial.” And I sighed.
+
+“But this method also,” he went on tenaciously, “has its defects.”
+
+“You may lay to that,” I interrupted.
+
+“It has the defect that at high speeds its readings are not quite
+correct, and at very low speeds still less so. Moreover, it is said
+that it slightly deteriorates with the passage of time.”
+
+“Now that,” I broke in emphatically, “is a defect I have discovered
+in——”
+
+But he put up his hand to stop me. “It slightly deteriorates, I say,
+with the passage of time.” He paused a moment impressively. “No one has
+hitherto discovered any system which will accurately record the speed
+of a vehicle or of any rotary movement and register it at the lowest as
+at the highest speeds.” He paused again for a still longer period in
+order to give still greater emphasis to what he had to say. He
+concluded in a new note of sober triumph: “I have solved the problem!”
+
+I thought this was the end of him, and I got up and beamed a
+congratulation at him and asked if he would drink anything, but he only
+said, “Please sit down again and I will explain.”
+
+There is no way of combating this sort of thing, and so I sat down, and
+he went on:
+
+“It is perfectly simple....” He passed his hand over his forehead. “It
+is so simple that one would say it must have been thought of before;
+but that is what is always said of a great invention.... Now I have
+here” (and he opened out his foolscap) “the full details. But I will
+not read them to you; I will summarize them briefly.”
+
+“Have you a plan or anything I could watch?” said I a little anxiously.
+
+“No,” he answered sharply, “I have not, but if you like I will draw a
+rough sketch as I go along upon the margin of your newspaper.”
+
+“Thank you,” I said.
+
+He drew the newspaper towards him and put it on his knee. He pulled out
+a pencil; he held the foolscap up before his eye, and he began to
+describe.
+
+“The general principle upon which my speedometer reposes,” he said
+solemnly, “is the coordination of the cylinder and the cone upon an
+angle which will have to be determined in practice, and will probably
+vary for different types. But it will never fall below 15 nor rise over
+43.”
+
+“I should have thought——” I began, but he told me I could not yet have
+grasped it, and that he wished to be more explicit.
+
+“On a king bolt,” he said, occasionally consulting his notes, “runs a
+pivot in bevel which is kept in place by a small hair-spring, which
+spring fits loosely on the Conkling Shaft.”
+
+“Exactly,” said I, “I see what is coming.”
+
+But he wouldn’t let me off so easily.
+
+“Yes, of course you are going to say that the whole will be keyed
+together, and that the T-pattern nuts on a movable shank will be my
+method of attachment to the fixed portion next to the cam? Eh? So it
+is, but” (and here his eye brightened), “_anyone_ could have arranged
+that. My particularity is that I have a freedom of movement even at the
+lowest speeds, and an accuracy of notation even at the highest, which
+is secured in a wholly novel manner ... and yet so simply. What do you
+think it is?”
+
+I affected to look puzzled, and thought for a moment. “I cannot
+imagine,” said I, “unless——”
+
+“No,” he interrupted, “do not try to guess it, for you never will. _I
+turn the flange inward_ on a Wilkinson lathe and give it a parabolic
+section so that the axes are always parallel to each other and to the
+shaft.... There!”
+
+I had no idea the man could be so moved: there was jubilation in his
+voice.
+
+“There!” he said again, as though some effort of the brain had
+exhausted him. “It can’t be touched, mind you,” he added suspiciously;
+“I’ve taken out the provisional patents. There’s one man I know wants
+to fight it in the courts as an infringement on Wilkinson’s own patent,
+but it can’t be touched!” He shook his head decisively. “No! my
+lawyer’s certain of that—and so’m I!”
+
+Here there was a break in his communications, so to speak, and he had
+apparently run out. It was not for me to wind him up again. I watched
+him with a sombre relief as he stood up again to full height, leaned
+his head back, and sighed profoundly with satisfaction and with
+completion. He folded up his specification and put it in his pocket
+again. He tore off the incomprehensible sketch he had made with his
+pencil while he was speaking, and put it by me on the mantelshelf. “You
+might like to keep it,” he said pathetically; “it’s a document, that
+is; it will be famous some day.” He looked at it lovingly, almost as
+though he was going to take it back again: but he thought better of it.
+
+I was waiting, I will not say itching, for him to take his leave, when
+a god or demon, that same perhaps which had treated the poor fellow as
+a jest for a whole lifetime, inspired him to take a very false step
+indeed. He had already taken up his hat and was turning as though to go
+to the door, when the unfortunate thought struck him.
+
+“What would you do?” he said.
+
+“How do you mean?” I answered.
+
+“Why, what would you do to try and get it taken up and talked about?”
+
+Then it was my turn, and I let him have it.
+
+“You must get the Press and the Government to work together,” I said
+rapidly, “and particularly in connection with the new Government
+Service of Camion’s Fettle-Trains and Cursory Circuits.”
+
+He nodded like one who thoroughly understands and desires to hear more.
+
+“Speed,” I added nonchalantly, “and the measure of it are of course
+essentials in their case.”
+
+He nodded again.
+
+“And they have never really settled the problem ... especially about
+Fettle-Trains.”
+
+“No,” said he ponderously, “so I understand.”
+
+“Well now,” I went on, full of the chase, “you will naturally ask me
+who are you to go to?” I scratched my nose. “You know the Fusionary
+Office, as we call it? It is really, of course, a part of the
+Stannaries. But the Chief Permanent Secretary likes to have it called
+the Fusionary Office; it’s his vanity.”
+
+“Yes,” said he eagerly, “yes, go on!”
+
+“They always have the same hours,” I said, “four to eleven.”
+
+“Four to _what_?” he asked, looking up.
+
+“To eleven,” I repeated sharply; “but you’d much better call round
+about three.”
+
+He looked bewildered.
+
+“Don’t interrupt,” I said, seeing him open his lips, “or I shall lose
+the thread. It’s rather complicated. You call at three by the little
+door in Whitehall on the Embankment side towards the Horse Guards
+looking south, and _don’t_ ring the bell.”
+
+“Why not?” he asked. I thought for the moment he might begin to cry.
+
+“Oh, well,” I said testily, “you mustn’t ask those questions. All these
+institutions are very old institutions with habits and prejudices of
+their own. You mustn’t ring the bell, that’s all; they don’t like it;
+you must just wait until they open; and then, if you take _my_ advice,
+don’t write a note or ask to interview the First Analyist. Don’t do any
+of the usual things, but just fill up one of the regular Treasury forms
+and state that you have come with regard to the Perception and
+Mensuration advertisements.”
+
+His face was pained and wrinkled as he heard me, but he said, “I beg
+your pardon ... but shall I have it all explained to me at the office?”
+
+“Certainly not!” I said, aghast; “it’s just because you might have so
+much difficulty there that I’m explaining everything to you.”
+
+“Yes, I know,” he said doubtfully; “thank you.”
+
+“I hope you’ll try and follow what I say,” I continued a little
+wearily; “I have special opportunities for knowing.... Political, you
+know.”
+
+“Certainly,” he said, “certainly; but about those forms?”
+
+“Well,” I said, “you didn’t suppose they supplied them, did you?”
+
+“I almost did,” he ventured.
+
+“Oh, you did,” said I, with a loud laugh, “well, you’re wrong there.
+However, I dare say I’ve got one on me.” He looked up eagerly as I felt
+in my pockets. I brought out a telegraph blank, two letters, and a
+tobacco pouch. I looked at them for a moment. “No,” said I, “I haven’t
+got one; it’s a pity, but I’ll tell you who will give you one; you know
+the place opposite, where the bills are drafted?”
+
+“I’m afraid I don’t,” he said, admitting ignorance for the first time
+in this conversation and perhaps in his life.
+
+“Well,” said I impatiently, “never mind, anyone will show you. Go
+there, and if they don’t give you a form they’ll show you a copy of
+Paper B, which is much the same thing.”
+
+“Thank you,” said he humbly, and he got up to move out. He was going a
+little groggily, his eyes were dull and sodden. He presented all the
+aspect of a man under a heavy strain.
+
+“You’ve got it all clear, I hope?” I asked cheerfully as he neared the
+door.
+
+“Oh, yes!” he said. “Thank you; yes!”
+
+“Anything else?” I shouted as he passed out into the courtyard.
+“Anything else I can do? You’ll always find me in the room over the
+office, Room H, down the little iron staircase,” I nodded genially to
+him as he disappeared.
+
+In this way did we exchange, the Inventor and I, those expert
+confidences and mutual aids in either’s technical skill which are too
+rarely discovered in modern travel.
+
+
+
+
+The Views of England
+
+
+England is a country with edges and with a core. It is a country very
+small for the number of people who live in it, and very appreciable to
+the eye for the traveller who travels on foot or in a boat from place
+to place. Considering the part it has in the making of the world, it
+might justly be compared to a jewel which is very small and very
+valuable and can almost be held in the hand. The physical appreciation
+of England is to be reached by an appreciation of landscape.
+
+It so happens that England is traversed by remarkable and sudden
+ranges; hills with a sharp escarpment overlooking great undulating
+plains. This is not true of any other one country of Europe, but it is
+true of England, and a man who professes to consider, to understand, to
+criticize, to defend, and to love this country, must know the Pennines,
+the Cotswolds, the North and the South Downs, the Chilterns, the
+Mendips, and the Malverns; he must know Delamere Forest, and he must
+know the Hill of Beeston, from which all Cheshire may be perceived. If
+he knows these heights and has long considered the prospects which they
+afford, he can claim to have seen the face of England.
+
+It is deplorable that our modern method of travel does cut us off from
+such experiences. They were not only common to, they were necessary to
+our fathers; the roads would not be at the expense of tunnelling
+through hills, and (what is more important) when those men who most
+mould the knowledge of the country by the country (the people who deal
+with its soil, who live separate upon its separate farms) visited each
+other upon horses; and horses, unlike railway trains, cannot climb
+hills. They puff, they heave, they snort, as do railway trains, but
+they climb them well.
+
+On this account, because the roads for the carriages went over hills,
+and because the method of visiting even a near neighbour would permit
+you to go over hills, the England of quite a little time ago was
+familiar with the half-dozen great landscapes of England. You may see
+it in that most individual, that most peculiar, and, I think, that most
+glorious school of painters, the English landscape painter, Constable
+with his thick colours, Turner with his wonderment, and even the
+portrait painters in their backgrounds depend upon the view of the
+plains from a height. To-day our landscape painters sometimes do the
+same, but the market for that emotion is capricious, it is no longer
+the secure and natural way of presenting England to English eyes.
+
+If you will consider these plains at the foot of the English hills you
+will find in them the whole history of the country, and the whole
+meaning of it as well. Two occur to me first: The view of the Weald
+(both Kentish and Sussex) through which the influence of Europe
+perpetually approached the island, not only in the crisis of the Roman
+or the Norman invasions, but in a hundred episodes stretched out
+through two thousand years—and the view of the Thames Valley as one
+gets it on a clear day from the summits of the North Downs when one
+looks northward and sees very faintly the Chilterns along the horizon.
+
+This last is obscured by London. One needs a very particular
+circumstance in which to appreciate it. The air must be dry and clear,
+there must be little or no wind, or if there is a wind it must be a
+strong one from the south and west that has already driven the smoke
+from the western edge of the town. When this is so, a man looks right
+across to the sandy heights just north of the Thames, and far beyond he
+sees the Chilterns, like a landfall upon the rim of the world. He looks
+at all that soil on which the government of this country has been
+rooted. He sees the hill of Windsor. He overlooks, though he cannot
+perceive at so great a distance, the two great schools of the rich; he
+has within one view the principal Castle of the Kings, the place of
+their council, and the cathedral of their capital city: so true is it
+that the Thames made England.
+
+Then, if you consider the upper half of that valley, the view is from
+the ridge of the Berkshire hills, or, better still, from Cumnor, or
+from the clump of trees above Faringdon. From such look-outs the
+astonishing loneliness which England has had the strength to preserve
+in this historic belt of land profoundly strikes a man. You can see to
+your left and, a long way off, the hill where, as is most probable,
+Alfred thrust back the Pagans, and so saved one-half of Christendom.
+Oxford is within your landscape. The roll upwards in a glacis of the
+Cotswold, the nodal point of the Roman roads at Cirencester, and the
+ancient crossings of the Thames.
+
+From the Cotswold again westward you look over a sheer wall and see one
+of those differences which make up England. For the passage from the
+Upper Thames to the flat and luxuriant valley floor of the Severn is a
+transition (if it be made by crossing the hills) more sudden than that
+between many countries abroad. Had our feudalism cut England into
+provinces we should here have two marked provincial histories marching
+together, for the natural contrast is greater than between Normandy and
+Brittany at any part of their march or between Aragon and Castile at
+any part of theirs. I do not know what it is, but the view of the
+jagged Malvern seen above the happy mists of autumn, when these mists
+lie like a warm fleece upon the orchards of the vale, preserving them
+of a morning until the strengthening of the sun, the sudden aspect, I
+say, of those jagged peaks strikes one like a vision of a new world.
+How many men have thought it! How often it ought to be written down! It
+hangs in the memory of the traveller like a permanent benediction, and
+remains in his mind a standing symbol of peace.
+
+I have no space to speak of how from Beeston you see all Cheshire; the
+Vale Royal to your left, and the main plain of the county to your
+right. The whole stretch is framed in with definite hills, the last and
+highly marked line of the Pennines bounds the view upon the east; upon
+the west the first of the Welsh hills stands sharply in a long even
+line against the fading sun; and on the north you see the height of
+Delamere. There are three other views in the North of England, the
+first easy, the last two difficult to obtain, all between them making
+up a true picture of what the North of England is. The first (and it is
+very famous) is the view over the industrial ferment of South
+Lancashire, seen from the complete silence of the hills round the Peak.
+No matter where you cross that summit, even if you take the high road
+from the Snake Inn to Glossop, where the easiest, and therefore the
+least striking, passage has been chosen, much more if you follow the
+wild heights a little to the south until you come to a more abrupt
+descent on which there are not even paths, there comes a point where
+there is presented to you in one great offering, without introduction,
+a vision of the vast energies of England.
+
+I remember once in winter when the sun sets early (it was December, and
+seven years ago) coming upon this sight. The clouds were so arranged
+after an Atlantic storm that all the heaven (which here is always
+spacious and noble) was covered with a rolling curtain as though a man
+had pulled it with his hands. But far off, westward, there was a broad
+red band of sunset, and against this the smoke, the tall stacks, the
+violence and the wealth of that cauldron. One could almost hear the
+noise. It did arrest one; it was as though someone had painted
+something unreal, to be a mystical emblem, and to sum up in one picture
+all those million despairs, misfortunes, chances, disciplines, and
+acquirements which make up the character of Lancashire men. This vision
+also many men have seen and many men shall write of. Very rarely upon
+the surface of the earth does the soul take on so immediate and obvious
+a physical body as does the soul of that industrial world in the view
+of which I speak.
+
+And the two other views are, first, that difficult one which one must
+pick and choose but which can be obtained from several sites
+(especially at the end of Wensleydale), and which is the view of that
+rich, old, and agricultural Yorkshire, from which the county draws its
+traditions and in which, perhaps, the truest spirit of the county still
+abides; for Yorkshire is at heart farmer, and possibly after three
+generations of a town, a man from this part of England still looks more
+lively when he sees a lively horse put before him for judgment. Second,
+the view from Cross Fell, very, very difficult to obtain, for often
+when one climbs Cross Fell in sunny weather, one gets up over the Scar
+under the threat of cloud, and one only reaches the summit by the time
+the evening or the mist has fallen; but if one has the luck to see the
+view of which I speak, then one sees all that rugged remaining part of
+the Northwest exactly as the Romans saw it, and as it has been for two
+thousand years, with the high land of the lakes and the stony nature
+and the sparseness of all the stretch about one, and the approach to a
+foreign land.
+
+I have often thought when I have heard men blaming the story of England
+or her present mood for false reasons, or, what is worse, praising her
+for false reasons; when I have heard the men of the cities talking wild
+talk got from maps and from print, or the disappointed men talking wild
+talk of another kind, expecting impossible or foreign perfections from
+their own kindred—I have often thought, I say, when I have heard the
+folly upon either side (and the mass of it daily increases)—that it
+would be a wholesome thing if one could take such a talker and make him
+walk from Dover to the Solway, exercising some care that he should rise
+before the sun, and that he should see in clear weather the views of
+which I speak. A man who has done that has seen England—not the name or
+the map or the rhetorical catchword, but the thing. And it does not
+take so very long.
+
+
+
+
+The Lunatic
+
+
+Those who are interested in what simple straightforward people call the
+Pathology of Consciousness have gathered a great body of evidence upon
+the various manias that affect men, and there is an especially
+interesting department of this which concerns illusion upon matters
+which in the sane are determinable by the senses and common experience.
+Thus one man will believe himself to be the Emperor of China, another
+to be William Shakespeare or some other impossible person, though one
+would imagine that his every accident of daily life would convince him
+to the contrary.
+
+I had recently occasion to watch one of the most harmless and yet one
+of the most striking of these illusions in a private asylum which has
+specialized, if I may so express myself, upon men of letters. The case
+was harmless and even benign, for the poor fellow was not of a
+combative disposition to begin with, was of too careful and dignified a
+temperament to show more than slight irritation if his delusion were
+contradicted. This misfortune, however, very rarely overtook him, for
+those who came to visit him were warned to humour his whim. This
+eccentricity I will now describe.
+
+He imagined, nay he was convinced, that he was existing fifty years in
+the future, and that the interest of his conversation for others would
+lie in his reminiscence of the state of society in which we are
+actually living today. If anyone who had not been warned was imprudent
+enough to suggest that the conversation was taking place in 1909 would
+smile gently, nod, and say rather bitterly, “Yes, I know, I know,” as
+though recognizing a universal plot against him which he was too weary
+to combat. But when he had said this he would continue to talk on as
+though both parties to the conversation were equally convinced that the
+year was really 1960 or thereabouts. Whether to add zest to what he
+said or from some part of his malady consonant with all the rest, my
+poor friend (who had been a journalist and will very possibly be a
+journalist again) presupposed that the whole structure of society as we
+now know it had changed and that his reminiscences were those of a past
+time which, on account of some great revolution or other, men
+imperfectly comprehended, so that it must be of the highest interest
+and advantage to listen to the testimony of an eye-witness upon them.
+
+What especially delighted him (for he was a zealous admirer of the
+society he described) was the method of government.
+
+“There was no possibility of going wrong,” he said to me with curious
+zeal, “not a shadow of danger! It would be difficult for you to
+understand now how easily the system worked!” And here he sighed
+profoundly. “And why on earth,” he continued, “men should have
+destroyed such an instrument when they had it is more than I can
+understand. There it was in every country in Europe; there were
+elections; all the men voted. And mind you, the elections were not so
+very far apart. Most people living at one election could remember the
+last, so there was no time for abuses to spring up.... Well, everybody
+voted. If a man wanted one thing he voted one way, and if he wanted
+another thing he voted the other way. The people for whom he voted
+would then meet, and with a sense of duty which I cannot exaggerate
+they would work month after month exactly to reproduce the will of
+those who had appointed them. It was a great time!”
+
+“Yet,” said I, “even so there must have been occasional divergences
+between what these people did and what the nation wanted.”
+
+“I see what you mean,” he said, musing, “you mean that all the devotion
+in the world, the purest of motives and the most devoted sense of duty,
+could not keep the elected always in contact with the electors. You are
+right. But you must remember that in every country there was a
+machinery, with regard to the most important measures at least, which
+could throw the matter before the electors to be re-decided. I can
+remember no important occasion upon which the machinery was not brought
+into use.”
+
+“But, after all, the value of the decisions of the electorate you are
+describing,” said I, continuing to humour him, “would depend upon the
+information which the electorate had received as well as upon their
+judgment.”
+
+“As for their judgment,” he said, a little shortly, “it is not for our
+time to criticize theirs. Human judgment is not infallible, but I can
+well remember how in every nation of Europe it was the fixed conviction
+of the citizens that judgment was their chief characteristic, and
+especially judgment in national affairs. I cannot believe that so
+universal an attitude of the mind could have arisen had it not been
+justified. But as for information, they had the Press ... a free
+Press!” Here he fell into a reverie, so powerfully did his supposed
+memories affect him.
+
+I was willing to lead him on, because this kind of illness is best met
+by sympathy, and also because I was not uninterested to discover how
+his own trade had affected him.
+
+“You would hardly understand it,” he said sadly; “what you hear from me
+is nothing but words.... I wish I could have shown you one of those
+great houses with information pouring in as rapid, as light, and as
+clear, from every hidden corner of the world, digested by master brains
+into the most lucid and terse presentment of it possible, and then
+whirled out on great wheels to be distributed by the thousand and the
+hundred thousand, to the hungry intelligence of Europe. There was
+nothing escaped it—nothing. In every capital were crowds of men
+dispatched from the other capitals of our civilization, moving with
+ease in the wealthiest houses, and exquisitely in touch with the most
+delicate phases of national life everywhere. And these men were such
+experts in selection that a picture of Europe as a whole was presented
+every morning to each particular part of Europe; and nowhere was this
+more successfully accomplished than in my own beloved town of London.”
+
+“It must have been useful,” I said, “not only for the political
+purposes you describe, but also for investors. Indeed, I should imagine
+that the two things ran together.”
+
+“You are right,” he said with interest, “the wide knowledge which even
+the poorest of the people possessed upon foreign affairs, through the
+action of the Press, was, further, of the utmost and most beneficent
+effect in teaching even the smallest proprietor what he need do with
+his capital. A discovery of metallic ore—especially of gold—a new
+invention, anything which might require development, was at once
+presented in its most exact aspect to the reader.”
+
+“It was probably upon that account,” said I, “that property was so
+equally distributed, and that so general a prosperity reigned as you
+have often described to me.”
+
+“You are right,” said he; “it was mainly this accurate and universal
+daily information which produced such excellent results.”
+
+“But it occurs to me,” said I, by way of stimulating his conversation
+with an objection, “that if so passionate and tenacious a habit of
+telling the exact truth upon innumerable things was present in this old
+institution of which you speak, it cannot but have bred a certain
+amount of dissension, and it must sometimes even have done definite
+harm to individuals whose private actions were thus exposed.”
+
+“You are right,” said he; “the danger of such misfortunes was always
+present, and with the greatest desire in the world to support only what
+was worthy the writers of the journals of which I speak would
+occasionally blunder against private interests; but there was a
+remedy.”
+
+“What was that?” I asked.
+
+“Why, the law provided that in this matter twelve men called a jury,
+instructed by a judge, after the matter had been fully explained to
+them by two other men whose business it was to examine the truth boldly
+for the sake of justice—I say the law provided that the twelve men
+after this process should decide whether the person injured should
+receive money from the newspaper or no, and if so, in what amount. And,
+lest there should still be any manner of doubt, the judge was permitted
+to set aside their verdict if he thought it unjust. To secure his
+absolute impartiality as between rich and poor he was paid somewhat
+over £100 a week, a large salary in those days, and he was further
+granted the right of imprisoning people at will or of taking away their
+property if he believed them to obstruct his judgment. Nor were these
+the only safeguards. For in the case of very rich men, to whom justice
+might not be done on account of the natural envy of their poorer
+fellow-citizens, it was arranged that the jury should consist only of
+rich men. In this way it was absolutely certain that a complete
+impartiality would reign. We shall never see those days again,” he
+concluded.
+
+“But do you not think,” I said before I left him, “that the social
+perfection of the kind you have described must rather have been due to
+some spirit of the time than to particular institutions? For after all
+the zealous love of justice and the sense of duty which you describe
+are not social elements to be produced by laws.”
+
+“Possibly,” he said, wearily, “possibly, but we shall never see it
+again!”
+
+And I left him looking into the fire with infinite sadness and
+reflecting upon his lost youth and the year 1909: a pathetic figure,
+and one whose upkeep during the period of his deficiency was a very
+serious drain upon the resources of his family.
+
+
+
+
+The Inheritance of Humour
+
+
+There are some truths which seem to get old almost as soon as they are
+born, and that simply because they are so astonishingly true that
+people soon get to feel as though they have known them all their lives;
+and such a truth is that which first one writer and then another in the
+last five years has been insisting upon, until it is already a perfect
+commonplace that nations do not know their own qualities. The inmost,
+the characteristic thing, that which differentiates one community from
+another, as tastes or colours differentiate things—_that_ a nation
+hardly ever knows until it is pointed out to it by some foreigner or by
+some observer from within. It cannot know it, because one cannot tell
+the very atmosphere in which one lives. It is universal and therefore
+unnoticed. Now, if this is true of any nation, it is particularly true
+of England. And English people need to be told morning, noon, and
+night, not indeed the particular national characteristic which they
+have, since for this no particular name could be found, but rather what
+its evidences are; as, for instance, spontaneity in design, a passion
+for the mystical in poetry and the arts; a power in water-colour, in
+which they are perhaps quite alone, and certainly the first in Europe;
+and, above all, the chief, the master thing of all, humour.
+
+There is not nor ever will be anything like English humour. It is a
+thing quite apart, and by it for now more than two hundred years you
+may know England. It does not puzzle the foreigner (as the more blatant
+kind of intellectual man is too fond of boasting that it does); he
+simply admires it as a rule and wonders at it always; sometimes he
+actually dislikes it, but by it he knows that the thing he is reading
+is English and has the savour and taste of England.
+
+It is impossible to define it, because it is so full of stuff and so
+organic a quality; but in our own time it was principally the pencil of
+Charles Keene that has summed it up and presented it in a moment and at
+once to the eye—the pencil of Charles Keene and that profound instinct
+whereby he chose the legends for his drawing, whether he found them by
+his own sympathy with the people or whether they were suggested to him
+by friends.
+
+It is the verdict of the men most competent perhaps to judge upon these
+things that he had the greatest graphic power of his time, and that no
+one had had that power to such an extent since Hogarth. Upon these
+things the men of the trade must dispute; the layman cannot doubt that
+he had here a genius and a genius comprehensively national. It is the
+essence of a good draughtsman that what he wants to draw, that he
+draws. The line that he desires to see upon the paper appears there as
+his fingers move. It is a quality extremely rare in its perfection. And
+Charles Keene had it in perfection, as in totally different manner had
+the offensive and diseased talent of Beardsley.
+
+But more important than the power to do is the quality of the thing
+done, and the work of Charles Keene, multitudinous, varied, always
+great, is an inheritance for English people comparable to the
+inheritance they have in Dickens. It has also what Dickens had, a power
+of representing, as it were, the essential English. Just that which
+makes people say (with some truth) that Dickens never drew a gentleman
+would make them say with equal truth that what was interesting in the
+gentlemen of Charles Keene (and he perpetually drew them) was not the
+externals upon which gentlemen so pride themselves, but the soul. Thus
+I have in mind one picture wherein Keene drew a gentleman; true, he was
+a gentleman who had just swallowed a bad oyster, and therefore he was a
+man as well. I recall another of an old gentleman complaining of the
+caterpillar on his chop: he is a gentleman of the professional rather
+than the territorial classes, and, great heavens! what a power of line!
+All you see beneath the round of his hat is the end of his nose, the
+curve of his mouth, and two bushy ends of whiskers. Yet one can tell
+all about that man; one could write a book on him. One knows his
+economics, his religion, his accent, and what he thought of the Third
+Napoleon and what of Garibaldi. I have called draughtsmanship of this
+quality an inheritance—I might have called it perhaps with better
+propriety a monument. It is possible that England in the near future
+will look back with great envy, as she will certainly look back with
+great pride, to the generation preceding our own: they were a solid and
+a happy community of men. How much they owed to fortune, how much to
+themselves, it is not the place of such random stuff as mine to
+consider.
+
+They were nearly impregnable in their island; they were not bellicose.
+They made and sold for all the world. Whether the very different future
+which we are now entering is to be laid to their door or to our own,
+that generation will still remain one of the principal things in
+English history, like the Elizabethan generation, or the group of men
+who organized the Seven Years’ War, or the group of men who fought in
+the Peninsula. And of that generation the note of health and of
+stability is represented by its humour. I am not sure that of all
+things educational to young men with no personal memory of that time,
+and especially to young men with no family tradition of it to reflect
+it in their books and their furniture; and—this yet more
+particularly—to young men born out of England yet claiming communion
+with England, the Anglo-Indians and the Colonials—I am not sure, I say,
+that the thing most educational to these would not be some hundred of
+Charles Keene’s drawings, for therein they would find what it was that
+gave them the power and the wealth that can hardly be defended unless
+its traditions are continued. Note how Victorian England dealt with the
+humour of a Volunteer review; note how it dealt with the humour of
+excessive wealth; and note how it dealt with the humour of schools and
+of Dons. One might almost define it by negations. There is in all of it
+no—but here I lack a word.... When things ring false it is because they
+have got by exaggeration or by some other form of falsity _beside_
+themselves. Appreciation of rank or even of worth becomes snobbishness;
+appreciation of another’s judgment false taste; and patriotism, the
+most beautiful, the noblest, the most necessary of the great emotions,
+corrupts into something very vile indeed.
+
+Well, the Victorians, and notably this man of whose power of the pencil
+I am speaking, did lack that false savour, that savour of just missing
+what one wishes to say or to feel, which haunts us to-day; and I should
+imagine that whether it were cause or effect the salt present in the
+preservation of the moral health of that society was humour. Let us
+enjoy it like an heirloom. It is more national than the language; at
+least it is more national than what the language has become under
+foreign pressure; it is infinitely more national than our problems and
+our tragedies. It is so national that—who knows?—it may crop up again
+of itself one of these days; and may that not be long.
+
+
+
+
+The Old Gentleman’s Opinions
+
+
+I had occasion about a fortnight ago to meet a man more nearly ninety
+than eighty years of age, who had had special opportunity for
+discovering the changes of Europe during his long life. He was of the
+English wealthier classes by lineage, but his mother had been of the
+French nobility and a Huguenot. His father had been prominent in the
+diplomacy of a couple of generations ago. He had travelled widely, read
+perhaps less widely, but had known and appreciated an astonishing
+number of his contemporaries.
+
+I was interested (without any power of my own to judge whether his
+decisions were right or wrong) to discover what most struck him in the
+changes produced by that great stretch of years, all of which he had
+personally observed: he was born just after Waterloo, and he could
+remember the Reform Bill.
+
+He surprised me by telling me, in the first place, that the material
+changes and discoveries, enormous though they were in extent, were not,
+in his view, the most striking. He was ready to leave it open whether
+these material changes were the causes of moral changes more
+remarkable, or merely effects concomitant with these. When I asked him
+what had struck him most of the great material developments, he told me
+the phonograph and the aeroplane among inventions; Mendel’s
+observations in the sphere of experimental knowledge; and, in the
+sphere of pure theory, the breakdown of many things that had been
+dogmas of physical science in his early manhood.
+
+Since I did not quite understand what he meant by this last, he gave
+me, after some hesitation, a few examples: That the interior of the
+earth was molten; that a certain limited number of elements—not all yet
+isolated, but certainly few in their total—were at the base of all
+material forms, and were immutable; that the ultimate unit of each of
+these was a certain indivisible, eternal thing called the Atom; and so
+forth.
+
+He assured me that views of this sort, extending over a hundred or a
+thousand other points, were so universally accepted in his time that to
+dispute them was to be ranked with the unlettered or the fantastic. I
+asked him if it were so in economics. He said: Yes, in England, where
+there was a similar dogma of Free Trade: not abroad.
+
+When I asked him why Mendel’s published experiments and the theory
+based upon them had so much impressed him, he said because it was
+almost the first attempt to apply to the speculative dogmas of biology
+some standard demonstrably true; and here he wandered off to explain to
+me why the commonly accepted views upon biology, which had so changed
+thought in the latter part of his life, were associated with the name
+of Darwin. Darwin, he assured me, had brought forward no new discovery,
+but only a new hypothesis, and that only a small and particular
+hypothesis, whereby to explain the general theory of transformism. This
+theory, he told me—the unbroken descent of living organisms and their
+physical connection with one another and with common parents—had been a
+favourite idea from the beginning of history with many great thinkers,
+from Lucretius to Buffon and from Augustus of Hippo to Lamarck.
+Darwin’s, the old gentleman assured me, which he had defended with
+infinite toil, was that the method in which this continuity of descent
+proceeded was by an infinitely slow process of very small changes
+differentiating each minute step from the one before and the one after
+it, and these small changes Darwin’s hypothesis referred to a natural
+selection. Nothing else in Darwin’s work, he assured me, was novel, and
+yet it was the one thing which subsequent research had rendered more
+and more doubtful. Darwin (he said) said nothing new that was also
+true.
+
+At this point I was moved to contradict the old gentleman, and to say
+that one unquestioned contribution to science of Darwin, as novel as it
+was secure, was his patient discovery of the work of earthworms, and of
+its vast effect. The old gentleman was willing to admit that I was
+right, but he said he was only speaking of Darwin in connection with
+transformism and the whimsical way in which his private name (and his
+errors) had become identified with evolution in general.
+
+I asked him, since he had such a knowledge of men from observation, why
+this was so.
+
+“It seems at first sight,” he said, “as ridiculous as though we should
+associate the theory of light with the name of Newton, who inclined to
+the exploded corpuscular hypothesis, or the general conception of
+orbital motion in the universe to the great Bacon, who, in point of
+fact, rudely repudiated the Copernican theory in particular.”
+
+“Did he, indeed?” said I, interested.
+
+“I believe so,” said the old gentleman; “at any rate you were asking me
+why Darwin, with his single contribution to the theory of transformism,
+and that a doubtful one—or, to be accurate, an exploded one—should be
+associated in the popular mind with the invention of so ancient a
+theory as that of evolution. The reason is, I think, no more than that
+he came at a particular moment when any man doing great quantities of
+detailed work in this field was bound to stand out exaggeratedly. The
+society in which he appeared had, until just before his day, accepted a
+narrow cosmogony, quite unknown to its ancestors. Darwin’s book
+certainly exploded that, and the mind of his time—ignorant as it was of
+the past—was ready to accept the shattering of its father’s idols as a
+new revelation.”
+
+“But you were saying,” said I, when he had thus dealt harshly with a
+great name, “that not the material but the moral changes of your time
+seemed to you the greatest. Which did you mean?”
+
+“Why, in the first place,” said the old man thoughtfully and with some
+hesitation, “the curiously rapid decline of intelligence, or if you
+will have it differently, the clouding of thought that has marked the
+last thirty years. Men in my youth knew what they held and what they
+did not hold. They knew why they held it or why they did not hold it;
+but the attempt to enjoy the advantages of two contradictory systems at
+the same time, and, what is worse, the consulting of a man as an
+authority upon subjects he had never professed to know, are
+intellectual phenomena quite peculiar to the later years of my life.”
+
+I said we of the younger generation had all noticed it, as, for
+instance, when an honest but imperfectly intelligent chemist was
+listened to in his exposition of the nature of the soul, or a well-paid
+religious official was content to expound the consolations of
+Christianity while denying that Christianity was true.
+
+“But,” I continued, “we are usually told that this unfortunate decline
+in the express powers of the brain is due to the wide and imperfect
+education of the populace at the present moment.”
+
+“That is not the case,” answered the old man sharply, when I had made
+myself clear by repeating my remarks in a louder tone, for he was a
+little deaf.
+
+“That is not the case. The follies of which I speak are not
+particularly to be discovered among the poorer classes who have passed
+through the elementary schools. _These_” (it was to the schools that he
+was alluding with a comprehensive pessimism) “may account for the gross
+decline apparent in the public manners of our people, but not for
+faults which are peculiar to the upper and middle classes. It is not in
+the populace, but in those wealthier ranks that you will find the sort
+of intellectual decay of which I spoke.”
+
+I asked him whether he thought the tricks it was now considered
+cultured to play with mathematics came within the category of this
+intellectual decay. The old gentleman answered me a little abruptly
+that he could not judge what I was talking about.
+
+“Why,” said I, “do you believe that parallel straight lines _converge_
+or _diverge_?”
+
+“Neither,” said he, a little bewildered. “If they are parallel they
+cannot by definition either diverge or converge.”
+
+“You are, then,” said I, “an old-fashioned adherent of the theory of
+the parabolic universe?” At which sensible reply of mine the old man
+muttered rather ill-temperedly, and begged me to speak of something
+else.
+
+I asked him whether the knowledge of languages had not declined in his
+time. He said, somewhat emphatically, yes, and especially the knowledge
+of French, assuring me that in his early years many a Fellow of a
+College at Oxford or at Cambridge was capable of speaking that tongue
+in such a fashion as to make himself understood. On the other hand, he
+admitted that German and Spanish were more widely known than they had
+been, and Arabic certainly far more widely diffused among those
+officials of the Empire who took their work seriously.
+
+When I asked him whether politics were more corrupt as time proceeded,
+he said No, but more cynical; and as to morals he would not judge, for
+he was certain that as one vice was corrected another appeared in its
+place.
+
+What he told me he most deplored in the social system of his country
+was the power of the police and of the statistician by whom the
+policeman was guided. This he ascribed to the growth of great towns, to
+civic cowardice, and to a new taboo laid upon uniformed and labelled
+public authorities, who are now regarded as sacred, and also
+inordinately feared.
+
+“In my youth,” he said, “there was a joke that every man in Paris was
+known to the police. Today that is universally true, and no joke with
+regard to every man in London. Our movements are marked, our earnings,
+our expenses, and our most private affairs known to the innumerable
+officials of the Treasury, our records of every sort, however intimate,
+are exactly and correctly maintained. The obtaining of work and a
+livelihood is dependent upon strong organizations. There is hardly an
+ailment or a domestic habit, from drinking wine to eating turnips,
+which some crank who has obtained the ear of a politician does not
+control or threaten in the immediate future to control.”
+
+“As for doctors!” he began, his voice cracking with indignation, “their
+abominable....” but here the old gentleman fell into so violent a fit
+of coughing that he nearly turned black in the face, and when I
+respectfully slapped him on the back, in the hopes of granting him
+relief, he made matters worse by shaking himself at me with an energy
+worthy of 1842. His nurse rushed in, clapped him upon his pillows, and
+was prepared to vent her wrath upon me for having caused this paroxysm,
+when the old man’s exhaustion and laboured breathing captured all her
+attention, and I had the opportunity to withdraw.
+
+
+
+
+On Historical Evidence
+
+
+The last book to be published upon the last Dauphin of France set me
+thinking upon what seems to me the chief practical science in which
+modern men should secure themselves. I mean the science of history—and
+in this science almost all lies in the appreciation of evidence, for
+one of the chief particular problems presented to the student of
+history at the present moment is whether the Dauphin did or did not
+survive his imprisonment in the Temple.
+
+Let me first say why, to so many of us, the science of history and the
+appreciation of the evidence upon which it depends is of the first
+moment. It is because, short of vision or revelation, history is our
+only extension of human experience. It is true that a philosophy common
+to all citizens is necessary for a State if it is to live—but short of
+that necessity the next most necessary factor is a knowledge of the
+stuff of mankind: of how men act under certain conditions and impulses.
+This knowledge may be acquired, and is in some measure, during the
+experience of one wise lifetime, but it is indefinitely extended by the
+accumulation of experience which history affords.
+
+And what history so gives us is always of immediate and practical
+moment.
+
+For instance, men sometimes speak with indifference of the rival
+theories as to the origin of European land tenure; they talk as though
+it were a mere academic debate whether the conception of private
+property in land arose comparatively late among Europeans or was native
+and original in our race. But you have only to watch a big popular
+discussion on that very great and at the present moment very living
+issue, the moral right to the private ownership in land, to see how
+heavily the historic argument weighs with every type of citizen. The
+instinct that gives that argument weight is a sound one, and not less
+sound in those who have least studied the matter than in those who have
+most studied it; for if our race from its immemorial origins has
+desired to own land as a private thing side by side with communal
+tenures, then it is pretty certain that we shall not modify that
+intention, however much we change our laws. If, on the other hand, it
+could be shown that before the advent of a complex civilization
+Europeans had no conception of private property in land, but treated
+land as a thing necessarily and always communal, then you could ascribe
+modern Socialist theories with regard to the land to that general
+movement of harking back to the origins which Europe has been assisting
+at through over a hundred years of revolution and of change.
+
+It sounds cynical, but it is perfectly true, that much the largest
+factor in the historical conception of men is assertion. It is
+literally true that when men (with the exception of a very small
+proportion of scholars who are also intelligent) consider the past, the
+picture on which they dwell is a picture conveyed to them wholly by
+authority and by unquestioned authority. There was never a time when
+the original sources of history were more easily to be consulted by the
+plain man; but whether because of their very number, or because the
+habit is not yet formed, or because there are traditions of imaginary
+difficulty surrounding such reading, original sources were perhaps
+never less familiar to fairly educated opinion than they are today; and
+therefore no type of book gives more pleasure when one comes across it
+than those little cheap books, now becoming fairly numerous, in which
+the original sources, and the original sources alone, are put before
+the reader. Mr. Rait has already done such work in connection with Mary
+Queen of Scots, and Mr. Archer did it admirably in connection with the
+Third Crusade.
+
+But apart from the importance of consulting original sources—which is
+like hearing the very witnesses themselves in court—there is a factor
+in historical judgment which by some unhappy accident is peculiarly
+lacking in the professional historian. It is a factor to which no
+particular name can be attached, though it may be called a department
+of common sense. But it is a mental power or attitude easily
+recognizable in those who possess it, and perhaps atrophied by the very
+atmosphere of the study. It goes with the open air with a general
+knowledge of men and with that rapid recognition of the way in which
+things “fit in” which is necessarily developed by active life.
+
+For instance, when you know the pace at which Harold marched down from
+the north to Hastings you recognize, if you use that factor of historic
+judgment of which I spake, that the affair was not barbaric. There must
+have been fairly good roads, and there must have been a high
+organization of transport. You have only to consider for a moment what
+a column looks like, even if it be only a brigade, to see the truth of
+that. Again, this type of judgment forbids anyone who uses it to
+ascribe great popular movements (great massacres, great turmoils, and
+so forth) to craft. It is a very common thing, especially in modern
+history, to lay such things to the power of one or two wealthy or one
+or two bloody leaders, but you have only to think for a few moments of
+what a mob is to see the falsity of that. Craft can harness this sort
+of explosive force, it can control it, or persuade it, or canalize it
+to certain issues, but it cannot create it.
+
+Again, this sort of sense easily recognizes in historic types the
+parallels of modern experience. It avoids the error of thinking history
+a mistake and making of the men and women who appear there something
+remote from humanity, extreme, and either stilted or grandiose.
+
+In aid of this last feature in historical judgment there is nothing of
+such permanent value as a portrait. Obtain your conception (as, indeed,
+most boys do) of the English early sixteenth century from a text, then
+go and live with the Holbeins for a week and see what an enormously
+greater thing you will possess at the end of it. It is indeed one of
+the misfortunes of European history that from the fifth century to at
+least the eleventh we are, so far as Western European history is
+concerned, deprived of portraits. And by an interesting parallel the
+writers of the dark time seemed to have had neither the desire nor the
+gift of vivid description. Consider the dreariness of the
+hagiographers, every one of them boasting the noble rank and the
+conventional status of his hero, and you may say not one giving the
+least conception of the man’s personality. You have the great
+Gallo-Roman noble family of Ferreolus running down the centuries from
+the Decline of the Empire to the climax of Charlemagne. Many of those
+names stand for some most powerful individuality, yet all we have is a
+formula, a lineage, with symbols and names in the place of living
+beings, and even that established only by careful work, picking out and
+sifting relationships from various lives. The men of that time did not
+even think to tell us that there was such a thing as a family
+tradition, nor did it seem important to them to establish its Roman
+origin and its long succession in power.
+
+Next it must be protested that the smallness and particularity of the
+questions upon which historical discussion rages are no proof either of
+its general purposelessness nor of _their_ insignificance. All advance
+of knowledge proceeds in this fashion. Physical science affords
+innumerable examples of the way in which progress has depended upon a
+curiosity directed towards apparently insignificant things, and there
+is something in the mind which compels it to select a narrow field for
+the exercise of its acutest powers. Moreover, special points,
+discussion upon which must evidently be lengthy and may be indefinite,
+are peculiarly attractive to just that kind of man who by a love of
+prolonged research enlarges the bounds of knowledge and at the same
+time strengthens and improves for his fellows by continual exercise all
+the instruments of their common trade. Take, for instance, this case of
+the little Dauphin, Louis XVII. It really does not matter to day
+whether the boy got away or whether he died in prison. It does not
+prolong the line of the Capetians—the heir to that is present in the
+Duke of Orleans. It does not even affect our view of any other
+considerable part of history—save possibly the policy of Louis
+XVIII—and it is of no direct interest to our pockets or to our
+affections. Yet the masses of work which have accumulated round that
+one doubt have solved twenty other doubts. They have illuminated all
+the close of the Terror; they are beginning to make us understand that
+most difficult piece of political psychology, the reaction of
+Thermidor, and with it how Europeans lose their balance and regain it
+in the course of their quasi-religious wars; for all our wars have
+something in them of religion.
+
+Three elements appear to enter into the judgment of history. First,
+there is the testimony of human witnesses; next, there are the
+non-human boundaries wherein the action took place, boundaries which,
+by all our experience, impose fixed limits to action; thirdly, there is
+that indefinable thing, that mystic power, which all nations deriving
+from the theology of the Western Church have agreed to call, with the
+schoolman, _common sense_; a general appreciation which transcends
+particular appreciations and which can integrate the differentials of
+evidence. Of this last it is quite impossible to afford a test or to
+construct a measure; its presence in an argument is none the less as
+readily felt as fresh air in a room; without it nothing is convincing
+however laboured, with it, even though it rely upon slight evidence,
+one has the feeling of walking on a firm road. But it must be “common
+sense”—it must be of the sort, that is, which is common to man various
+and general, and it is in this perhaps that history suffers most from
+the charlatanism and ritual common to all great matters.
+
+Men will have pomp and mystery surrounding important things, and
+therefore the historians must, consciously or unconsciously, tend to
+strut, to quote solemn authorities in support, and to make out the
+vulgar unworthy of their confidence. Hence, by the way, the plague of
+footnotes.
+
+These had their origin in two sources: the desire to show that one was
+honest and to prove it by a reference; the desire to elucidate some
+point which it was not easy to elucidate in the text itself without
+making the sentence too elaborate and clumsy. Either use may be seen at
+its best in Gibbon. With the last generation they have served mainly,
+and sometimes merely, for ritual adornment and terror, not to make
+clearer or more honest, but to deceive. Thus Taine in his monstrously
+false history of the Revolution revels in footnotes; you have but to
+examine a batch of them with care to turn them completely against his
+own conclusions—they are only put there as a sort of spiked paling to
+warn off trespassers. Or, again, M. Thibaut, who writes under the name
+of “Anatole France,” gives footnotes by the score in his romance of
+Joan of Arc, apparently not even caring to examine whether they so much
+as refer to his text, let alone support it. They seem to have been done
+by contract.
+
+Another ailment in this department is the negative one, whereby an
+historian will leave out some aspect which to him, cramped in a study,
+seems unimportant, but which any plain man moving in the world would
+have told him to be the essential aspect of the whole matter. For
+instance, when Napoleon left Madrid on his forced march to intercept
+Sir John Moore before that general should have reached Benevente, he
+thought Moore was at Valladolid, when as a fact he was at Sahagun. In
+Mr. Oman’s history of the Peninsular War the error is put thus:
+“Napoleon had not the comparatively easy task of cutting the road
+between Valladolid and Astorga, but the much harder one of intercepting
+that between Sahagun and Astorga.”
+
+Why is this egregious nonsense? The facts are right and so are the
+dates and the names, yet it makes one blush for Oxford history. Why?
+Because the all-important element of _distance_ is omitted. The very
+first question a plain man would ask about the case would be, “What
+were the distances involved?” The academic historian doesn’t know, or,
+at least, doesn’t say; yet without an appreciation of the distances the
+statement has no value. As a fact the distances were such that in the
+first case (supposing Moore had been at Valladolid) Napoleon would have
+had to cover nearly three miles to Moore’s one to intercept him—an
+almost superhuman task. In the second case (Moore being as a fact at
+Sahagun) he would have had to go over _four miles_ to his opponent’s
+one—an absolutely impossible feat.
+
+To march _three_ miles to the enemy’s _one_ is what Mr. Oman calls “a
+comparatively easy task”; to march four to his one is what Mr. Oman
+calls a “much harder” task; and to write like that is what an informed
+critic calls bad history.
+
+The other two factors in an historical judgment can be more easily
+measured.
+
+The non-human elements which, as I have said, are irremovable (save to
+miracle), are topography, climate, season, local physical conditions,
+and so forth. They have two valuable characters in aid of history; the
+first is that they correct the errors of human memory and support the
+accuracy of details; the second is that they enable us to complete a
+picture. We can by their aid “see” the physical framework in which an
+action took place, and such a landscape helps the judgment of things
+past as it does of things contemporary. Thus the map, the date, the
+soil, the contours of Crécy field make the traditional spot at which
+the King of Bohemia fell doubtful; the same factors make it certain
+that Drouet did not plunge haphazard through Argonne on the night of
+June 21, 1791, but that he must have gone by one path—which can be
+determined.
+
+Or, again, take that prime question, why the Prussians did not charge
+at Valmy. On their failure to do so all the success of the Revolution
+turned. A man may read Dumouriez, Kellermann, Pully, Botidoux,
+Massenback, Goethe—there are fifty eye-witnesses at least whose
+evidence we can collect, and I defy anyone to decide. (Brunswick
+himself never knew.) But go to that roll of land between Valmy and the
+high road; go after three days’ rain as the allies did, and you will
+immediately learn. That field between the heights of “The Moon” and the
+site of old Valmy mill, which is as hard as a brick in summer (when the
+experts visit it), is a marsh of the worst under an autumn drizzle; no
+one could have charged.
+
+As for human testimony, three things appear: first, that the witness is
+not, as in a law court, circumscribed. His relation may vary infinitely
+in degree of proximity of time or space to the action, from that of an
+eye-witness writing within the hour to that of a partisan writing at
+tenth hand a lifetime after. That question of proximity comes first,
+from the known action of the human mind whereby it transforms colours
+and changes remembered things. Next there is the character of the
+witness _for the purposes of his testimony_. Historians write, too
+often, as though virtue—or wealth (with which they often confound
+it)—were the test. It is not, short of a known motive for lying; a
+murderer or a thief casually witnessing to a thing with which he is
+familiar is worth more than the best man witnessing in a matter which
+he understands ill. It was this error which ruined Croker’s essay on
+Charlotte Robespierre’s Memoirs. Croker thought, perhaps wisely, that
+all radicals were scoundrels; he could not accept her editor’s
+evidence, and (by the way) the view of this amateur collector without a
+tincture of historical scholarship actually imposed itself on Europe
+for nearly seventy years!
+
+And the third character in the witness is support: the support upon
+converging lines of other human testimony, most of it indifferent, some
+(this is essential) casual and by the way—deprived therefore of motive.
+
+When I shall find these canons satisfied to oppose the strong
+probability and tradition of the Dauphin’s death in prison I shall
+doubt that death, but not before.
+
+
+
+
+The Absence of the Past
+
+
+It is perhaps not possible to put into human language that emotion
+which rises when a man stands upon some plot of European soil and can
+say with certitude to himself: “Such and such great, or wonderful, or
+beautiful things happened here.”
+
+Touch that emotion ever so lightly and it tumbles into the commonplace,
+and the deadest of commonplace. Neglect it ever so little and the
+Present (which is never really there, for even as you walk across
+Trafalgar Square it is yesterday and tomorrow that are in your mind),
+the Present, I say, or rather the immediate flow of things, occupies
+you altogether. But there is a mood, and it is a mood common in men who
+have read and who have travelled, in which one is overwhelmed by the
+sanctity of a place on which men have done this or that a long, long
+time ago.
+
+Here it is that the gentle supports which have been framed for human
+life by that power which launched it come in and help a man. Time does
+not remain, but space does, and though we cannot seize the Past
+physically we can stand physically upon the site, and we can have (if I
+may so express myself) a physical communion with the Past by occupying
+that very spot which the past greatness of man or of event has
+occupied.
+
+It was but the other day that, with an American friend at my side, I
+stood looking at the little brass plate which says that here Charles
+Stuart faced (he not only faced, but he refused) the authority of his
+judges. I know not by what delicate mechanism of the soul that record
+may seem at one moment a sort of tourist thing, to be neglected or
+despised, and at another moment a portent. But I will confess that all
+of a sudden, pointing out this very well-known record upon the brass
+let into the stone in Westminster Hall, I suddenly felt the presence of
+the thing. Here all that business was done: they were alive; they were
+in the Present as we are. Here sat that tender-faced, courageous man,
+with his pointed beard and his luminous eyes; here he was a living man
+holding his walking-stick with the great jewel in the handle of it;
+here was spoken in the very tones of his voice (and how a human voice
+perishes!—how we forget the accents of the most loved and the most
+familiar voices within a few days of their disappearance!); here the
+small gestures, and all the things that make up a personality, marked
+out Charles Stuart. When the soul is seized with such sudden and
+positive conviction of the substantial past it is overwhelmed; and
+Europe is full of such ghosts.
+
+As you take the road to Paradise, about halfway there you come to an
+inn, which even as inns go is admirable. You go into the garden of it,
+and see the great trees and the wall of Box Hill shrouding you all
+around. It is beautiful enough (in all conscience) to arrest one
+without the need of history or any admixture of the pride of race; but
+as you sit there on a seat in that garden you are sitting where Nelson
+sat when he said goodbye to his Emma, and if you will move a yard or
+two you will be sitting where Keats sat biting his pen and thinking out
+some new line of his poem.
+
+What has happened? These two men with their keen, feminine faces, these
+two great heroes of a great time in the great story of a great people
+of this world, are not there. They are nowhere. But the site remains.
+
+Philosophers can put in formulæ the crowd of suggestions that rush
+into the mind when one’s soul contemplates the perpetual march and
+passage of mortality. But they can do no more than give us formularies:
+they cannot give us replies. What are we? What is all this business?
+Why does the mere space remain and all the rest dissolve?
+
+There is a lonely place in the woods of Chilham, in the County of Kent,
+above the River Stour, where a man comes upon an irregular earthwork
+still plainly marked upon the brow of the bluff. Nobody comes near this
+place. A vague country lane, or rather track; goes past the wet soil of
+it, plunges into the valley beyond, and after serving a windmill joins
+the high road to Canterbury. Well, that vague track is the ancient
+British road, as old as anything in this Island, that took men from
+Winchester to the Straits of Dover. That earthwork is the earthwork (I
+could prove it, but this is not the place) where the British stood
+against the charge of the Tenth Legion, and first heard, sounding on
+their bronze, the arms of Caesar. Here the river was forded; here the
+little men of the South went up in formation; here the Barbarian broke
+and took his way, as the opposing General has recorded, through devious
+woodland paths, scattering in the pursuit; here began the great history
+of England.
+
+Is it not an enormous business merely to stand in such a place? I think
+so.
+
+I know a field to the left of the Chalons Road, some few miles before
+you get to Ste. Menehould. There used to be an inn by the roadside
+called “The Sign of the Moon.” It has disappeared. There used to be a
+ramshackle windmill beyond the field, a mile or so from the road, on an
+upland swell of land, but that also has gone, and had been gone for
+some time before I knew the field of which I write. It is a bare fold
+of land with one or two little scrubby spinneys alongside the plough.
+And for the rest, just the brown earth and the sky. There are days on
+which you will see a man at work somewhere within that mile, others on
+which it is completely deserted. Here it is that the French Revolution
+was preserved. Here was the Prussian charge. On the deserted, ugly lump
+of empty earth beyond you were the three batteries that checked the
+invaders. It was all alive and crowded for one intense moment with the
+fate of Christendom. Here, on the place in which you are standing and
+gazing, young Goethe stood and gazed. That meaningless stretch of
+coarse grass supported Brunswick and the King of Prussia, and the
+brothers of the King of France, as they stood windswept in the rain,
+watching the failure of the charge. It is the field of Valmy. Turn on
+that height and look back westward and you see the plains rolling out
+infinitely; they are the plains upon which Attila was crushed; but
+there is no one there.
+
+All men have remarked that night and silence are august, and I think
+that if this quality in night and silence be closely examined it will
+be found to consist, in part at least, in this: that either of them
+symbolizes Absence. By a paradox which I will not attempt to explain,
+but which all have felt, it is in silence and in darkness that the Past
+most vividly returns, and that this absence of what once was possesses,
+nay, obtrudes itself upon the mind: it becomes almost a sensible thing.
+There is much to be said for those who pretend, imagine, or perhaps
+have experienced under such conditions the return of the dead. The mood
+of darkness and of silence is a mood crammed with something that does
+not remain, as space remains, that is limited by time, and is a
+creature of time, and yet something that has an immortal right to
+remain.
+
+Now, I suppose that in that sentence where I say things mortal have
+immortal rights to permanence, the core of the whole business is
+touched upon. And I suppose that the great men who could really think
+and did not merely fire off fireworks to dazzle their contemporaries—I
+suppose that Descartes, for instance, if he were here sitting at my
+table—could help me to solve that contradiction; but I sit and think
+and cannot solve it.
+
+“What,” says the man upon his own land, inherited perhaps and certainly
+intended for his posterity—“what! Can you separate me from this? Are
+not this and I bound up inextricably?” The answer is “No; you are not
+so far as any observer of this world can discover. Space is in no way
+possessed by man, and he who may render a site immortal in one of our
+various ways, the captain who there conquered, the poet who there
+established his sequence of words, cannot himself put forward a claim
+to permanence within it at all.”
+
+There was a woman of charming vivacity, whose eyes were ever ready for
+laughter, and whose tone of address of itself provoked the noblest of
+replies. Many loved her; all admired. She passed (I will suppose) by
+this street or by that; she sat at table in such and such a house;
+Gainsborough painted her; and all that time ago there were men who had
+the luck to meet her and to answer her laughter with their own. And the
+house where she moved is there and the street in which she walked, and
+the very furniture she used and touched with her hands you may touch
+with your hands. You shall come into the rooms that she inhabited, and
+there you shall see her portrait, all light and movement and grace and
+beatitude.
+
+She is gone altogether, the voice will never return, the gestures will
+never be seen again. She was under a law; she changed, she suffered,
+she grew old, she died; and there was her place left empty. The not
+living things remain; but what counted, what gave rise to them, what
+made them all that they are, has pitifully disappeared, and the
+greater, the infinitely greater, thing was subject to a doom
+perpetually of change and at last of vanishing. The dead surroundings
+are not subject to such a doom. Why?
+
+All those boys who held the line of the low ridge or rather swell of
+land from Hougoumont through the Belle Alliance have utterly gone. More
+than dust goes, more than wind goes; they will never be seen again.
+Their voices will never be heard—they are not. But what is the mere
+soil of the field without them? What meaning has it save for their
+presence?
+
+I could wish to understand these things.
+
+
+
+
+St. Patrick
+
+
+If there is one thing that people who are not Catholic have gone wrong
+upon more than another in the intellectual things of life, it is the
+conception of a Personality. They are muddled about it where their own
+little selves are concerned, they misappreciate it when they deal with
+the problems of society, and they have a very weak hold of it when they
+consider (if they do consider) the nature of Almighty God.
+
+Now, personality is everything. It was a Personal Will that made all
+things, visible and invisible. Our hope of immortality resides in this,
+that we are persons, and half our frailties proceed from a
+misapprehension of the awful responsibilities which personality
+involves or a cowardly ignorance of its powers of self-government.
+
+The hundred and one errors which this main error leads to include a bad
+error on the nature of history. Your modern non-Catholic or
+anti-Catholic historian is always misunderstanding, underestimating, or
+muddling the role played in the affairs of men by great and individual
+Personalities. That is why he is so lamentably weak upon the function
+of legend; that is why he makes a fetish of documentary evidence and
+has no grip upon the value of tradition. For traditions spring from
+some personality invariably, and the function of legend, whether it be
+a rigidly true legend or one tinged with make-believe, is to interpret
+Personality. Legends have vitality and continue, because in their
+origin they so exactly serve to explain or illustrate some personal
+character in a man which no cold statement could give.
+
+Now St. Patrick, the whole story and effect of him, is a matter of
+Personality. There was once—twenty or thirty years ago—a whole school
+of dunderheads who wondered whether St. Patrick ever existed, because
+the mass of legends surrounding his name troubled them. How on earth
+(one wonders) do such scholars consider their fellow-beings! Have they
+ever seen a crowd cheering a popular hero, or noticed the expression
+upon men’s faces when they spoke of some friend of striking power
+recently dead? A great growth of legends around a man is the very best
+proof you could have not only of his existence but of the fact that he
+was an origin and a beginning, and that things sprang from his will or
+his vision. There were some who seemed to think it a kind of favour
+done to the indestructible body of Irish Catholicism when Mr. Bury
+wrote his learned Protestant book upon St. Patrick. It was a critical
+and very careful bit of work, and was deservedly praised; but the
+favour done us I could not see! It is all to the advantage of
+non-Catholic history that it should be sane, and that a great
+Protestant historian should make true history out of a great historical
+figure was a very good sign. It was a long step back towards common
+sense compared with the German absurdities which had left their victims
+doubting almost all the solid foundation of the European story; but as
+for us Catholics, we had no need to be told it. Not only was there a
+St. Patrick in history, but there is a St. Patrick on the shores of his
+eastern sea and throughout all Ireland to-day. It is a presence that
+stares you in the face, and physically almost haunts you. Let a man
+sail along the Leinster coast on such a day as renders the Wicklow
+Mountains clear up-weather behind him, and the Mourne Mountains perhaps
+in storm, lifted clearly above the sea down the wind. He is taking some
+such course as that on which St. Patrick sailed, and if he will land
+from time to time from his little boat at the end of each day’s
+sailing, and hear Mass in the morning before he sails further
+northward, he will know in what way St. Patrick inhabits the soil which
+he rendered sacred.
+
+We know that among the marks of holiness is the working of miracles.
+Ireland is the greatest miracle any saint ever worked. It is a miracle
+and a nexus of miracles. Among other miracles it is a nation raised
+from the dead.
+
+The preservation of the Faith by the Irish is an historical miracle
+comparable to nothing else in Europe. There never was, and please God
+never can be, so prolonged and insanely violent a persecution of men by
+their fellow-men as was undertaken for centuries against the Faith in
+Ireland: and it has completely failed. I know of no example in history
+of failure following upon such effort. It had behind it in combination
+the two most powerful of the evil passions of men, terror and greed.
+And so amazing is it that they did not attain their end, that
+perpetually as one reads one finds the authors of the dreadful business
+now at one period, now at another, assuming with certitude that their
+success is achieved. Then, after centuries, it is almost suddenly
+perceived—and in our own time—that it has not been achieved and never
+will be.
+
+What a complexity of strange coincidences combined, coming out of
+nothing as it were, advancing like spirits summoned on to the stage,
+all to effect this end! Think of the American Colonies; with one little
+exception they were perhaps the most completely non-Catholic society of
+their time. Their successful rebellion against the mother country meant
+many things, and led to many prophecies. Who could have guessed that
+one of its chief results would be the furnishing of a free refuge for
+the Irish?
+
+The famine, all human opinion imagined, and all human judgment was
+bound to conclude, was a mortal wound, coming in as the ally of the
+vile persecution I have named. It has turned out the very contrary.
+From it there springs indirectly the dispersion, and that power which
+comes from unity in dispersion, of Irish Catholicism.
+
+Who, looking at the huge financial power that dominated Europe, and
+England in particular, during the youth of our own generation, could
+have dreamt that in any corner of Europe, least of all in the poorest
+and most ruined corner of Christendom, an effective resistance could be
+raised?
+
+Behind the enemies of Ireland, furnishing them with all their modern
+strength, was that base and secret master of modern things, the usurer.
+He it was far more than the gentry of the island who demanded toll,
+and, through the mortgages on the Irish estates, had determined to
+drain Ireland as he has drained and rendered desert so much else. Is it
+not a miracle that he has failed?
+
+Ireland is a nation risen from the dead; and to raise one man from the
+dead is surely miraculous enough to convince one of the power of a
+great spirit. This miracle, as I am prepared to believe, is the last
+and the greatest of St. Patrick’s.
+
+When I was last in Ireland, I bought in the town of Wexford a coloured
+picture of St. Patrick which greatly pleased me. Most of it was green
+in colour, and St. Patrick wore a mitre and had a crosier in his hand.
+He was turning into the sea a number of nasty reptiles: snakes and
+toads and the rest. I bought this picture because it seemed to me as
+modern a piece of symbolism as ever I had seen: and that was why I
+bought it for my children and for my home.
+
+There was a few pence change, but I did not want it. The person who
+sold me the picture said they would spend the change in candles for St.
+Patrick’s altar. So St. Patrick is still alive.
+
+
+
+
+The Lost Things
+
+
+I never remember an historian yet, nor a topographer either, who could
+tell me, or even pretend to explain by a theory, how it was that
+certain things of the past utterly and entirely disappear.
+
+It is a commonplace that everything is subject to decay, and a
+commonplace which the false philosophy of our time is too apt to
+forget. Did we remember that commonplace we should be a little more
+humble in our guesswork, especially where it concerns prehistory; and
+we should not make so readily certain where the civilization of Europe
+began, nor limit its immense antiquity. But though it is a commonplace,
+and a true one, that all human work is subject to decay, there seems to
+be an inexplicable caprice in the method and choice of decay.
+
+Consider what a body of written matter there must have been to instruct
+and maintain the technical excellence of Roman work. What a mass of
+books on engineering and on ship-building and on road-making; what
+quantities of tables and ready-reckoners, all that civilization must
+have produced and depended upon. Time has preserved much verse, and not
+only the best by any means, more prose, particularly the theological
+prose of the end of the Roman time. The technical stuff, which must, in
+the nature of things, have been indefinitely larger in amount, has
+(save in one or two instances and allusions) gone.
+
+Consider, again, all that mass of seven hundred years which was called
+Carthage. It was not only seven hundred years of immense wealth, of
+oligarchic government, of a vast population, and of what so often goes
+with commerce and oligarchy—civil and internal peace. A few stones to
+prove the magnitude of its municipal work, a few ornaments, a few
+graves—all the rest is absolutely gone. A few days’ marches away there
+is an example I have quoted so often elsewhere that I am ashamed of
+referring to it again, but it does seem to me the most amazing example
+of historical loss in the world. It is the site of Hippo Regius. Here
+was St. Augustine’s town, one of the greatest and most populous of a
+Roman province. It was so large that an army of eighty thousand men
+could not contain it, and even with such a host its siege dragged on
+for a year. There is not a sign of that great town today.
+
+A suburb, well without the walls—to be more accurate, a neighbouring
+village—carries on the name under the form of Bona, and that is all. A
+vast, fertile plain of black rich earth, now largely planted with
+vineyards, stands where Hippo stood. How can the stones have gone? How
+can it have been worth while to cart away the marble columns? Why are
+there no broken statues on such a ground, and no relics of the gods?
+
+Nay, the wells are stopped up from which the people drank, and the
+lining of the wells is not to be discovered in the earth, and the
+foundations of the walls, and even the ornaments of the people and
+their coins, all these have been spirited away.
+
+Then there are the roads. Consider that great road which reached from
+Amiens to the main port of Gaul, the Portus Itius at Boulogne. It is
+still in use. It was in use throughout the Middle Ages. Up that road
+the French Army marched to Crécy. It points straight to its goal upon
+the sea coast. Its whole purpose lay in reaching the goal. For some
+extraordinary reason, which I have never seen explained or even guessed
+at, there comes a point as it nears the coast where it suddenly ceases
+to be.
+
+No sand has blown over it. It runs through no marshes; the land is firm
+and fertile. Why should that, the most important section of the great
+road which led northward from Rome, have failed, and have failed so
+recently, in the history of man? Where this great road crosses streams
+and might reasonably be lost, at its _pontes_, its bridges, it has
+remained, and is of such importance as to have given a name to a whole
+countryside—_Ponthieu_. But north of that it is gone.
+
+Nearly every Roman road of Gaul and Britain presents something of the
+same puzzle in some parts of its course. It will run clear and
+followable enough, or form a modern highway for mile upon mile, and
+then not at a marsh where one would expect its disappearance, nor in
+some desolate place where it might have fallen out of use, but in the
+neighbourhood of a great city and at the very chief of its purpose, it
+is gone. It is so with the Stane Street that led up from the garrison
+of Chichester and linked it with the garrison of London. You can
+reconstruct it almost to a yard until you reach Epsom Downs. There you
+find it pointing to London Bridge, and remaining as clear as in any
+other part of its course: much clearer than in most other sections. But
+try to follow it on from Epsom Racecourse, and you entirely fail. The
+soil is the same; the conditions of that soil are excellent for its
+retention; but a year’s work has taught me that there is no
+reconstructing it save by hypothesis and guesswork from this point to
+the crossing of the Thames.
+
+What happened to all that mass of local documents whereby we ought to
+be able to build up the territorial scheme and the landed regime of old
+France? Much remains, if you will, in the shape of chance charters and
+family papers. Even in the archives of Paris you can get enough to whet
+your curiosity. But not even in one narrow district can you obtain
+enough to reconstruct the whole truth. There is not a scholar in Europe
+who can tell you exactly how land was owned and held, even, let us say,
+on the estates of Rheims or by the family of Condé. And men are ready
+to quarrel as to how many peasants owned and how much of their present
+ownership was due to the Revolution, evidence has already become so
+wholly imperfect in that tiny stretch of historical time.
+
+But, after all, perhaps one ought not to wonder too much that material
+things should thus capriciously vanish. Time, which has secured Timgad
+so that it looks like an unroofed city of yesterday, has swept and
+razed Laimboesis. The two towns were neighbours—one was taken and the
+other left—and there is no sort of reason any man can give for it.
+Perhaps one ought not too much to wonder, for a greater wonder still is
+the sudden evaporation and loss of the great movements of the human
+soul. That what our ancestors passionately believed or passionately
+disputed should, by their descendants in one generation or in two,
+become meaningless, absurd, or false—this is the greatest marvel and
+the greatest tragedy of all.
+
+
+
+
+On the Reading of History
+
+
+Let me at the beginning of this short article present two facts to the
+reader. Neither can be disputed, and that is why I call them facts and
+put them in the forefront before I begin upon my theories.
+
+The first fact is that the record of what men have done in the past and
+how they have done it is the chief positive guide to present action.
+The second fact is that most men must now receive the impression of the
+past through reading.
+
+Put these two facts together and you get the fundamental truth that
+upon the right reading of history the right use of citizenship in
+England today will depend. It will of course depend upon other things
+as well: chiefly upon the human conscience; for if you were to pack off
+to an island a hundred families as ignorant as any human families can
+be of tradition, and wholly ignorant of positive history, those
+families would yet be able to create a human society and the voice of
+God within them would give just limits to their actions.
+
+Still, of those factors in civic action amenable to civic direction,
+conscious and positively effective, there is nothing to compare with
+the right teaching and the right reading of history. Now teaching is
+today ruined. The old machinery by which the whole nation could be got
+to know all essential human things, has been destroyed, and the
+teaching of history in particular has been not only ruined but rendered
+ridiculous. There is no historical school properly so-called in modern
+England; that is, there is no organization framed with the sole object
+of extending and co-ordinating historical knowledge and of choosing men
+for their capacity to discover upon the one hand and to teach upon the
+other. There is nothing approaching to it in the two ancient
+universities, because the choice of teachers there depends upon a
+multitude of considerations quite separate from those mentioned, and
+the capacity to discover, to know, and to teach history, though it
+_may_ be present in a tutor, will only be accidentally so present:
+while as for co-ordination of knowledge, there is no attempt at it.
+Even where very hard work is done, and, when it concerns local history,
+very useful work, history as a general study is not grasped because the
+universities have not grasped it.
+
+History is to be had by the modern Englishman from his own reading
+only; and I am here concerned with the question how he shall read
+history with profit.
+
+To read history with profit, history must be true, or at any rate the
+reader must have a power of discerning what is true in the midst of
+much that may be false. I will bargain, for instance, that in the
+summer of 1899 the great mass of men, and especially the great mass of
+men who had passed through the universities, were under the impression
+that armies had left England for the purpose of conquest in distant
+countries with invariable success: that that success had been unique,
+unsupported and always decisive, and that the wealth of the country
+after each success had increased, not diminished. In other words, had
+history been studied even by the tiny minority who have education today
+in England, Sir William Butler would have counted more than the Joels,
+and the late Mr. Barnato (as he called himself); the South African War
+would not have taken place in a society which knew its past.
+
+Again, you may pick almost any phrase referring to the Middle Ages out
+of any newspaper—if you are a man read in the Middle Ages—and you will
+find in it not only a definite historical falsehood with regard to the
+fact referred to, or the analogy drawn, but also a false philosophy.
+
+For instance, the other day I read this phrase with regard to the
+burial of a certain gentleman of my neighbourhood in Sussex: “We are
+surely past the phase of mediaeval thought in which it was imagined
+that a few words spoken over the lifeless clay would determine the fate
+of the soul for all eternity.” Just notice the myriad falsehoods of a
+phrase like that! I will not discuss what is connoted by the words
+“past the phase of mediaeval thought”—it connotes of course that the
+human mind changes fundamentally with the centuries, and therefore that
+whatever we think is probably wrong, and that what we are sure of we
+cannot be sure of, an absurd conclusion. I will only note the
+historical falsehoods. When on earth did the “Middle Ages” lay down
+that a “few words over lifeless clay determined the fate of the soul
+for all eternity”? On the contrary, the Middle Ages laid it down—it was
+their peculiar doctrine—that it was impossible to determine the fate of
+the soul; that no one could tell the fate of any one individual soul;
+that it was a grievous sin, among the most grievous of sins, to affirm
+positive knowledge that any individual had lost his soul. More than
+this, the Middle Ages were peculiar in their insistence upon the
+doctrine that a man might have been very bad and might have had all the
+appearance of having lost his soul so far as human judgment went, and
+yet was liable to a midway place between salvation and damnation, and
+they affirmed that this midway place did not lead to either fate but
+necessarily to salvation and to salvation only.
+
+Again, whatever could help the human soul to salvation was by the most
+rigorous theological definition of the Middle Ages applicable only
+before death. After death the fate of the soul was sealed, and the man
+once dead, the “lifeless clay” (as the journalist put it—and the Middle
+Ages was the only source from which he got the idea of clay at all),
+whether it were that of a Pope or of some random highwayman, had no
+effect whatsoever upon the fate of the soul. The greatest saint might
+have offered the most solemn sacrifice on its behalf for years, and if
+the soul were damned his sacrifice would have been of no avail.
+
+I have taken this example absolutely at random. But the modern reader,
+apart from sentences as clearly provocative of criticism as this, is
+perpetually coming across references, allusions, and parallels which
+take a certain course of human European and English history for
+granted. How is he to distinguish when that course is rightly drawn
+from when it is wrongly drawn?
+
+Thus in some newspaper article written by an able man, and dealing, let
+us say, with the territorial army, one might come across a sentence
+like this: “Napoleon himself used troops so raw that they were actually
+drilled on the march to the battlefield.” That would be a perfectly
+true statement. Any amount of criticism of it lies in connexion with
+Mr. Haldane’s scheme, but still it is a true piece of history. Napoleon
+did get raw recruits into his battalions just before any one of his
+famous marches began, and drill them on the way to victory. In the next
+column of the newspaper the reader may be presented with a sentence
+like this: “The captures of English by privateers in the Revolutionary
+War should teach us what foreign cruisers can do.”
+
+There were plenty of captures by privateers in the Revolutionary Wars;
+if I remember rightly, many many hundreds, all discreetly hidden from
+the common or garden reader until party politics necessitated their
+resurrection a hundred years after the event, but they have nothing
+whatsoever to do with modern circumstances.
+
+Both statements are true then, and yet one can be truthfully applied
+today, while the other cannot.
+
+How is the plain reader to distinguish between two historical truths,
+one of which is a useful modern analogy, the other of which is a
+ludicrously misleading one?
+
+The reader, it would seem, has no criterion by which to distinguish
+what has been withheld from him and what has been emphasized; he may,
+from his knowledge of the historian’s character or bias, stand upon his
+guard, but he can do little more.
+
+There is another difficulty. It is less subtle and less common, but it
+exists. I mean brute lying. You do not often get the lie direct in
+official history; it would be too dangerous a game to play in the face
+of the critics, though some historians, and notably the French
+historian Taine, have played it boldly enough, and have stated
+dogmatically, as historical happenings, things that never happened and
+that they knew never happened. But the plain or brute historical lie is
+more commonly found in the pages of ephemeral journalism. Thus the
+other day, with regard to the Budget, I saw some financial operation
+alluded to as comparable with “the pulling out of Jews’ teeth for money
+in the Middle Ages.” When did anyone in the Middle Ages pull out a
+Jew’s teeth for money? There is just one very doubtful story told about
+King John, and that story is told without proof by one of John’s worst
+enemies, in a mass of other accusations many of which can be proved to
+be false.
+
+Again, I turn to an Oxford History of the French Revolution, and I find
+the remark that the massacres of September were organized by the men
+from Marseilles. They were not organized by the men from Marseilles.
+The men from Marseilles had nothing to do with them, and the fact has
+been public property since the publication of Pollio and Marcel’s
+monograph twenty years ago.
+
+What criterion can the ordinary reader choose when he is confronted by
+difficulties of this sort? I will suggest to him one which seems to me
+by far the most valuable. It is the reading of firsthand authorities.
+It is all a matter of habit. When the original authorities upon which
+history is based were difficult to get at, when few of those in foreign
+tongues had been translated, and when those that had been published
+were published in the most expensive form, the ordinary reader had to
+depend upon an historian who would summarize for him the reading of
+another. The ordinary reader was compelled to read secondary history or
+none. Now secondary history is among the most valuable of literary
+efforts; where evidence is slight, the judgment of an historian who
+knows from other reading the general character of the period, is most
+valuable. Where evidence is abundant, and therefore confusing, the
+historian used to the selection and weighing of it performs a most
+valuable function. Still, the reader who is not acquainted with
+original authorities does not really know history and is at the mercy
+of whatever myth or tradition may be handed to him in print.
+
+We should remember that today, even in England, original authorities
+are quite easy to get at. Two little books, for instance, occur to me
+out of hundreds: Mr. Rait’s book on Mary Stuart and Mr. Archer’s on the
+Third Crusade. In each of these the reader gets in a cheap form, in
+modern and readable English, the kind of evidence upon which historians
+base their history, and he can use that evidence in the light of his
+own knowledge of human nature and his own judgment of human life.
+
+Or again, if he wants to know what the Romans really knew or said they
+knew about the German tribes who, as pirates, so greatly influenced the
+history of England, let him get Mr. Rouse’s edition of Grenewey’s
+translation of the Germania in Blackie’s series of English texts; it
+will only cost sixpence, and for that money he will get a bit of
+Caesar’s Gallic War and the Agricola as well. But the list nowadays is
+a very long one, luckily, and the lay reader has only to choose what
+period he would like to read up, and he will find for nearly every one
+first-hand evidence ready, cheap and published in a readable modern
+form. That he should take such first-hand evidence is the very best
+advice that any honest historian can give.
+
+
+
+
+The Victory
+
+
+The study of history, like the exploration, the thorough exploration,
+of any other field, leads one to perpetual novelties, miracles, and
+unexpected things; and I, in the study of the revolutionary wars, came
+across the story of a battle which completely possessed my spirit.
+
+It would not be to my purpose here to give its name. It is not among
+the most famous; it is not Waterloo, nor Leipsic, nor Austerlitz, nor
+even Jemappes. The more I read into the night the more I perceived that
+upon the issue of that struggle depended the fate of the modern world.
+So completely did the notes of Carnot and a few private letters that
+had been put before me absorb my attention that I will swear the
+bugle-calls of those two days (for it was a two-days’ struggle) sounded
+more clearly in my ears than the rumble of the London streets, and, as
+this died out with the advance of the night and the approach of
+morning, I was living entirely upon that ridge in Flanders, watching,
+as a man watches an arena, whether the new things or the old should be
+victorious. It was the new that conquered.
+
+From that evening I was determined to visit this place of which so far
+I had but read, and to see how far it might agree with the vision I had
+had of it, and to people actual fields with the ghosts of dead
+soldiers. And for the better appreciation of the drama I chose the
+season and the days on which the fight had been driven across that
+rolling land, and I came there, as the Republicans had come, a little
+before the dawn.
+
+The hillside was silent and deserted, more even than are commonly such
+places, though silence and desertion seem the common atmosphere of all
+the fields on which such fates have been decided. A man looking over
+Carthage Bay, especially a man looking at those sodden pools that were
+the sound harbours of Carthage, might be in an uninhabited world; and
+the loop of the Trebbia is the same, and the edge of Fontenoy; and even
+here in England that hillside looking south up which the Normans
+charged at Battle is a quiet and a drowsy sort of place.... So it was
+here in Flanders.
+
+For two miles as I ascended by the little sunken lane which the extreme
+right wing had followed in the last attack I saw neither man nor beast,
+but only the same stubble of the same autumn fields, and the same
+colder sun shining upon the empty uplands until I reached the crest
+where the Hungarian and the Croat had met the charge, and had disputed
+the little village for two hours—a dispute upon which hung your fate
+and mine and that of Europe.
+
+It was a tiny little village, seven or eight houses together and no
+more, with a crazy little wooden steeple to its church all twisted
+awry, large barns, and comfortable hedgerows of the Northern kind; and
+from it one looked out westwards over an infinity of country, following
+low crest after low crest, down on to the French plains. I went into
+the inn of the place to drink, and found the cobbler there complaining
+that wealth disturbed the natural equality of men. Then I wandered out,
+pacing this point and that which I knew accurately from my maps, and
+thinking of the noise of the war. Behind the little church, upon a
+ramshackle green not large enough to pitch the stumps for
+single-wicket, was the modest monument, a cock in bronze, crowing, and
+the word “Victory” stamped into the granite of the pedestal; the whole
+thing, I suppose, not ten feet high. The bronze was very well done; it
+savoured strongly of Paris and looked odd in this abandoned little
+place. But every time my eyes sank from the bronze, to look at some
+other point in the landscape to identify the emplacement of such and
+such a battery or the gully that had concealed the advance of such and
+such a troop, my glance perpetually returned to that word “VICTORY,”
+sculptured by itself upon the stone. It was indeed a victory; it was a
+victory which, for its huge unexpectedness, for the noise of it, for
+the length of time during which it was in doubt, for its final success,
+there is no parallel, and yet it is by no means among the famous
+battles of the world. And though the French count it one among the
+thousand of their battles, I doubt whether even in Paris most men would
+recognize it for the hammer-blow it was. The men of the time hardly
+knew it, though Carnot guessed at it, and now to-day in Sorbonne I
+think that regal fight is taking its true place.
+
+So I went down the eight miles of front northward along the ridge; for
+even that battle, a hundred and more years ago, had an extended front
+of this kind. I recognized the tall majestic fringe of beeches from
+which had issued the last of the Royalist regiments bearing for the
+last time upon a European field the white flag of the Bourbon Monarchy;
+I came beyond it to the combe fringed with its semicircle of underbrush
+in which Coburg had massed his guns in the last effort to break the
+French centre when his flank was turned. I came to the main highway,
+very broad, straight, and paved, which cuts this battlefield in two,
+and then beyond it to the central position whose capture had made the
+final manoeuvre possible.
+
+All Wednesday the Grenadiers, German, tall, padded, smart, and stout,
+had held their ground. It was not until Thursday, and by noon, that
+they were slowly driven up the hill by the ragged lads, the Gauls,
+shoeless, some not in uniform at all, half-mutinous, drunk with pain
+and glory. And I remembered, as the scene returned to me, that this
+battle, like so many of the Revolution, had been a battle of men
+against boys; how grey and veteran and trained in arms were the
+Austrians and the Prussians, their allies, how strict in orders, how
+calm: and what children the Terror had called up by force from the
+exhausted fields of remote French provinces, to break them here against
+the frontier, like water against a wall...!
+
+There was a little chap, twelve years old, a drummer; he had crept and
+crawled by hedgerows till he found himself behind the line of those
+volleying Grenadiers. There, “before his side,” and breaking all rules,
+he had sounded the roll of the charge. They cut him down and killed
+him, and the roll of his drum ceased hard. A generation or more later,
+digging for foundations at this spot, the builders of the Peace came
+upon his bones, the little bones of a child heaped pell-mell with
+skeletons of the fallen giants round him.
+
+I went back into the town in whose defence the battle had been waged,
+and there I saw again in bronze this little lad, head high and mouth
+open, a-beating of his drum, and again the word “VICTORY.”
+
+All that effort was undertaken, all those young men and children
+killed, for something that was to happen for the salvation of the
+world; it has not come. All that iron resistance of the German line had
+been forged and organized till it almost conquered, till it almost
+thwarted, the Republic, and it also had been organized for the defence,
+and, as some thought, for the salvation, of the world. Some great good
+was to have come by the storming of that hill, or some great good by
+the defeat of the impetuous charge. Well, the hill was stormed, and (if
+you will) at Leipsic the effort which had stormed it was rolled back.
+What has happened to the High Goddess whom that youth followed, and
+worshipped as they say, and what to the Gods whom their enemies
+defended? The ridge is exactly the same.
+
+
+
+
+Reality
+
+
+A couple of generations ago there was a sort of man going mournfully
+about who complained of the spread of education. He had an ill-ease in
+his mind. He feared that book learning would bring us no good, and he
+was called a fool for his pains. Not undeservedly—for his thoughts were
+muddled, and if his heart was good it was far better than his head. He
+argued badly or he merely affirmed, but he had strong allies (Ruskin
+was one of them), and, like every man who is sincere, there was
+something in what he said; like every type which is numerous, there was
+a human feeling behind him: and he was very numerous.
+
+Now that he is pretty well extinct we are beginning to understand what
+he meant and what there was to be said for him. The greatest of the
+French Revolutionists was right—“After bread, the most crying need of
+the populace is knowledge.” But what knowledge?
+
+The truth is that secondary impressions, impressions gathered from
+books and from maps, are valuable as adjuncts to primary impressions
+(that is, impressions gathered through the channel of our senses), or,
+what is always almost as good and sometimes better, the interpreting
+voice of the living man. For you must allow me the paradox that in some
+mysterious way the voice and gesture of a living witness always convey
+something of the real impression he has had, and sometimes convey more
+than we should have received ourselves from our own sight and hearing
+of the thing related.
+
+Well, I say, these secondary impressions are valuable as adjuncts to
+primary impressions. But when they stand absolute and have hardly any
+reference to primary impressions, then they may deceive. When they
+stand not only absolute but clothed with authority, and when they
+pretend to convince us even against our own experience, they are
+positively undoing the work which education was meant to do. When we
+receive them merely as an enlargement of what we know and make of the
+unseen things of which we read, things in the image of the seen, then
+they quite distort our appreciation of the world.
+
+Consider so simple a thing as a river. A child learns its map and
+knows, or thinks it knows, that such and such rivers characterize such
+and such nations and their territories. Paris stands upon the River
+Seine, Rome upon the River Tiber, New Orleans on the Mississippi,
+Toledo upon the River Tagus, and so forth. That child will know one
+river, the river near his home. And he will think of all those other
+rivers in its image. He will think of the Tagus and the Tiber and the
+Seine and the Mississippi—and they will all be the river near his home.
+Then let him travel, and what will he come across? The Seine, if he is
+from these islands, may not disappoint him or astonish him with a sense
+of novelty and of ignorance. It will indeed look grander and more
+majestic, seen from the enormous forest heights above its lower course,
+than what, perhaps, he had thought possible in a river, but still it
+will be a river of water out of which a man can drink, with clear-cut
+banks and with bridges over it, and with boats that ply up and down.
+But let him see the Tagus at Toledo, and what he finds is brown rolling
+mud, pouring solid after the rains, or sluggish and hardly a river
+after long drought. Let him go down the Tiber, down the Valley of the
+Tiber, on foot, and he will retain until the last miles an impression
+of nothing but a turbid mountain torrent, mixed with the friable soil
+in its bed. Let him approach the Mississippi in the most part of its
+long course and the novelty will be more striking still. It will not
+seem to him a river at all (if he be from Northern Europe); it will
+seem a chance flood. He will come to it through marshes and through
+swamps, crossing a deserted backwater, finding firm land beyond, then
+coming to further shallow patches of wet, out of which the tree-stumps
+stand, and beyond which again mud-heaps and banks and groups of reeds
+leave undetermined, for one hundred yards after another, the limits of
+the vast stream. At last, if he has a boat with him, he may make some
+place where he has a clear view right across to low trees, tiny from
+their distance, similarly half swamped upon a further shore, and behind
+them a low escarpment of bare earth. That is the Mississippi nine times
+out of ten, and to an Englishman who had expected to find from his
+early reading or his maps a larger Thames it seems for all the world
+like a stretch of East Anglian flood, save that it is so much more
+desolate.
+
+The maps are coloured to express the claims of Governments. What do
+they tell you of the social truth? Go on foot or bicycling through the
+more populated upland belt of Algiers and discover the curious mixture
+of security and war which no map can tell you of and which none of the
+geographies make you understand. The excellent roads, trodden by men
+that cannot make a road; the walls as ready loopholed for fighting; the
+Christian church and the mosque in one town; the necessity for and the
+hatred of the European; the indescribable difference of the sun, which
+here, even in winter, has something malignant about it, and strikes as
+well as warms; the mountains odd, unlike our mountains; the forests,
+which stand as it were by hardihood, and seem at war against the
+influence of dryness and the desert winds, with their trees far apart,
+and between them no grass, but bare earth alone.
+
+So it is with the reality of arms and with the reality of the sea. Too
+much reading of battles has ever unfitted men for war; too much talk of
+the sea is a poison in these great town populations of ours which know
+nothing of the sea. Who that knows anything of the sea will claim
+certitude in connexion with it? And yet there is a school which has by
+this time turned its mechanical system almost into a commonplace upon
+our lips, and talks of that most perilous thing, the fortunes of a
+fleet, as though it were a merely numerical and calculable thing! The
+greatest of Armadas may set out and not return.
+
+There is one experience of travel and of the physical realities of the
+world which has been so widely repeated, and which men have so
+constantly verified, that I could mention it as a last example of my
+thesis without fear of misunderstanding. I mean the quality of a great
+mountain.
+
+To one that has never seen a mountain it may seem a full and a fine
+piece of knowledge to be acquainted with its height in feet exactly,
+its situation; nay, many would think themselves learned if they know no
+more than its conventional name. But the thing itself! The curious
+sense of its isolation from the common world, of its being the
+habitation of awe, perhaps the brooding-place of a god!
+
+I had seen many mountains, I had travelled in many places, and I had
+read many particular details in the books—and so well noted them upon
+the maps that I could have re-drawn the maps—concerning the Cerdagne.
+None the less the sight of that wall of the Cerdagne, when first it
+struck me, coming down the pass from Tourcarol, was as novel as though
+all my life had been spent upon empty plains. By the map it was 9000
+feet. It might have been 90,000! The wonderment as to what lay beyond,
+the sense that it was a limit to known things, its savage
+intangibility, its sheer silence! Nothing but the eye seeing could give
+one all those things.
+
+The old complain that the young will not take advice. But the wisest
+will tell them that, save blindly and upon authority, the young cannot
+take it. For most of human and social experience is words to the young,
+and the reality can come only with years. The wise complain of the
+jingo in every country; and properly, for he upsets the plans of
+statesmen, miscalculates the value of national forces, and may, if he
+is powerful enough, destroy the true spirit of armies. But the wise
+would be wiser still if, while they blamed the extravagance of this
+sort of man, they would recognize that it came from that half-knowledge
+of mere names and lists which excludes reality. It is maps and
+newspapers that turn an honest fool into a jingo.
+
+It is so again with distance, and it is so with time. Men will not
+grasp distance unless they have traversed it, or unless it be
+represented to them vividly by the comparison of great landscapes. Men
+will not grasp historical time unless the historian shall be at the
+pains to give them what historians so rarely give, the measure of a
+period in terms of a human life. It is from secondary impressions
+divorced from reality that a contempt for the past arises, and that the
+fatal illusion of some gradual process of betterment of “progress”
+vulgarizes the minds of men and wastes their effort. It is from
+secondary impressions divorced from reality that a society imagines
+itself diseased when it is healthy, or healthy when it is diseased. And
+it is from secondary impressions divorced from reality that springs the
+amazing power of the little second-rate public man in those modern
+machines that think themselves democracies. This last is a power which,
+luckily, cannot be greatly abused, for the men upon whom it is thrust
+are not capable even of abuse upon a great scale. It is none the less
+marvellous in its falsehood.
+
+Now you will say at the end of this, Since you blame so much the power
+for distortion and for ill residing in our great towns, in our system
+of primary education and in our papers and in our books, what remedy
+can you propose? Why, none, either immediate or mechanical. The best
+and the greatest remedy is a true philosophy, which shall lead men
+always to ask themselves what they really know and in what order of
+certitude they know it; where authority actually resides and where it
+is usurped. But, apart from the advent, or rather the recapture, of a
+true philosophy by a European society, two forces are at work which
+will always bring reality back, though less swiftly and less whole. The
+first is the poet, and the second is Time.
+
+Sooner or later Time brings the empty phrase and the false conclusion
+up against what is; the empty imaginary looks reality in the face and
+the truth at once conquers. In war a nation learns whether it is strong
+or no, and how it is strong and how weak; it learns it as well in
+defeat as in victory. In the long processes of human lives, in the
+succession of generations, the real necessities and nature of a human
+society destroy any false formula upon which it was attempted to
+conduct it. Time must always ultimately teach.
+
+The poet, in some way it is difficult to understand (unless we admit
+that he is a seer), is also very powerful as the ally of such an
+influence. He brings out the inner part of things and presents them to
+men in such a way that they cannot refuse but must accept it. But how
+the mere choice and rhythm of words should produce so magical an effect
+no one has yet been able to comprehend, and least of all the poets
+themselves.
+
+
+
+
+On the Decline of the Book: [And Especially of the Historical Book]
+
+
+It is an interesting speculation by what means the Book lost its old
+position in this country. This is not only an interesting speculation,
+but one which nearly concerns a vital matter. For if men fall into the
+habit of neglecting true books in an old and traditional civilization,
+the inaccuracy of their judgments and the illusions to which they will
+be subject, must increase.
+
+To take but one example: history. The less the true historical book is
+read and the more men depend upon ephemeral statement, the more will
+legend crystallize, the harder will it be to destroy in the general
+mind some comforting lie, and the great object-lesson of politics
+(which is an accurate knowledge of how men have acted in the past) will
+become at last unknown.
+
+There are many, especially among younger men, who would contest the
+premiss upon which all this is founded. They may point out, for
+instance, that the actual number of bound books bought in a given time
+at present is much larger than ever it was before. They may point out
+again, and with justice, that the proportion of the population which
+reads books of any sort, though perhaps not larger than it was three
+hundred years ago, is very much larger than it was one hundred years
+ago. And it may further be affirmed with truth that the range of
+subjects now covered by books produced and sold is much wider than ever
+it was before.
+
+All this is true; and yet it is also true that the Book as a factor in
+our civilization has not only declined but has almost disappeared. Were
+many more dogs to be possessed in England than are now possessed, but
+were they to be all mongrels, among which none could be found capable
+of retrieving, or of following a fox or a hare with any discipline, one
+would have a right to say that the dog as a factor of our civilization
+had declined. Were many more men in England able to ride horses more or
+less, but were the number of those who rode constantly and for pleasure
+enormously to diminish, and were the new millions who could just manage
+to keep on horseback to prefer animals without spirit on which they
+would feel safe, one would have a right to say that the horse was
+declining as a factor in our civilization; and this is exactly what has
+happened with the Book.
+
+The excellence of a book and its value as a book depend upon two
+factors, which are usually, though not always, united in varied
+proportions: first, that it should put something of value to the
+reader, whether of value as a discovery and an enlargement of wisdom or
+of value as a new emphasis laid upon old and sound morals; secondly,
+that this thing added or renewed in human life should be presented in
+such a manner as to give permanent aesthetic pleasure.
+
+That is not a first-rate book which, while it is admirably written,
+teaches something false or something evil; nor is that a first-rate
+book which, though it discover a completely new thing, or emphasize the
+most valuable department of morals, is so constructed as to be
+unreadable. Now it will not be denied that as far as these two factors
+are concerned—and I repeat they are almost always found in
+combination—the position of the Book has dwindled almost to
+nothingness. One could give examples of almost every kind: one could
+show how poetry, no matter how appreciated or praised, no longer sells.
+One could show—and this is one of the worst signs of all—how men will
+buy by the hundred thousand anything at all which has the hall mark of
+an established reputation, quite careless as to their love of it or
+their appetite for it. One could further show how more than one book of
+permanent value in English life has been discovered in our generation
+outside England, and has been as it were thrust upon the English public
+by foreign opinion.
+
+But for my purpose it will be sufficient to take one very important
+branch which I can claim to have watched with some care, and that is
+the branch of History.
+
+It may be said with truth that in our generation no single first-rate
+piece of history has enjoyed an appreciable sale. That is not true of
+France, it is not true of the United States, it is not even true of
+Germany in her intellectual decline, but it is true of England.
+
+History is an excellent test. No man will read history, at least
+history of an instructive sort, unless he is a man who can read a book,
+and desires to possess one. To read History involves not only some
+permanent interest in things not immediately sensible, but also some
+permanent brain-work in the reader; for as one reads history one
+cannot, if one is an intelligent being, forbear perpetually to contrast
+the lessons it teaches with the received opinions of our time. Again,
+History is valuable as an example in the general thesis I am
+maintaining, because no good history can be written without a great
+measure of hard work. To make a history at once accurate, readable,
+useful, and new, is probably the hardest of all literary efforts; a man
+writing such history is driving more horses abreast in his team than a
+man writing any other kind of literary matter. He must keep his
+imagination active; his style must be not only lucid, but also must
+arrest the reader; he must exercise perpetually a power of selection
+which plays over innumerable details; he must, in the midst of such
+occupations, preserve unity of design, as much as must the novelist or
+the playwright; and yet with all this there is not a verb, an adjective
+or a substantive which, if it does not repose upon established
+evidence, will not mar the particular type of work on which he is
+engaged.
+
+As an example of what I mean, consider two sentences: The first is
+taken from the 432nd page of that exceedingly unequal publication, the
+_Cambridge History of the French Revolution_; the second I have made up
+on the spur of the moment; both deal with the Battle of Wattignies. The
+“Cambridge History” version runs as follows:—
+
+On October 15 the relieving force, 50,000 strong, attacked the Austrian
+covering force at Wattignies; the battle raged all that day and was
+most furious on the right, in front of the village of Wattignies, which
+was taken and lost three times; on the 17th the French expected another
+general engagement but the enemy had drawn off.
+
+There are here five great positive errors in six lines. The French were
+not 50,000 strong, the attack on the 15th was not on Wattignies, but on
+Dourlers; Wattignies was not taken and lost three times; the fight of
+the 15th was _least_ pressed on the right (harder on the left and
+hardest in the centre) and no one—not the least recruit—expected Coburg
+to come _back_ on the 17th. Why, he had crossed the Sambre at every
+point the day before! As for negative errors, or errors of omission,
+they are capital, and the chief is that the victory was won on the
+second day, the 16th, of which no mention is made.
+
+Now contrast such a sentence with the following:—
+
+On October 15th the relieving force, 42,000 strong, attacked the
+Austrian centre at Dourlers, and made demonstrations upon its wings;
+the attack upon Dourlers (which village had been taken and lost three
+times) having failed, upon the following day, October 16th, the extreme
+left of the enemy’s position at Wattignies was attacked and carried;
+the enemy thus outflanked was compelled to retreat, and Maubeuge was
+relieved the same evening.
+
+In the first sentence (which bears the hall mark of the University)
+every error that could possibly be made in so few lines has been made.
+The numbers are wrong; the nature of the fighting is misstated; the
+village in the centre is confused with that on the extreme right; the
+critical second day is altogether omitted, and every portion of the
+sentence, verb, adjective, and substantive, is either directly
+inaccurate or indirectly conveys an inaccurate impression. The second
+sentence, bald in style and uninteresting in presentation as the first,
+has the merit of telling the truth. But—and here is the point—it would
+be impossible to criticize the first sentence unless someone had read
+up the battle, and to read up that battle one has to depend on five or
+six documents, some unpublished (like much of Jourdan’s Memoirs), some
+of them involving a visit to Maubeuge itself, some, like Pierrat’s
+book, very difficult to obtain (for it is neither in the British Museum
+nor in the Bodleian) some few the writings of contemporary
+eyewitnesses, and yet themselves demonstrably inaccurate. All these
+must be read and collated, and if possible the actual ground of the
+battle visited, before the first simple inaccurate sentence can be
+properly criticized or the second bald but accurate sentence framed.
+None of these authorities can have been so much as heard of by the
+official historian I have quoted.
+
+It would be redundant to press the point. Most readers know well enough
+what labour the just writing of history involves, and how excellent a
+type it is of that “making of a book” which art is, as I have said,
+imperilled by apathy at the present day.
+
+Consider for a moment who were those that purchased historical works in
+this country in the past. There were, first of all, the landed gentry.
+In almost every great country-house you will find a good old library,
+and that good old library you will discover to be, as a rule, most
+valuable and most complete in what concerns the end of the eighteenth
+and the beginning of the nineteenth centuries. A very large proportion
+of history, and history of the best sort, is to be found upon those
+shelves. The standard dwindles, though it is fairly well maintained
+during the first two-thirds of the nineteenth century. Then—as a
+rule—it abruptly comes to an end. One may take as a sort of bourne, the
+two great books Macaulay’s _History_ and Kinglake’s, for an earlier and
+a later limit. Most of these libraries contain Macaulay; some few
+Kinglake; hardly one possesses later works of value.
+
+It may be urged in defence of the buyer that no later works of value
+exist. Put so broadly, the statement is erroneous; but the truth which
+it contains is in itself dependent upon the lack of public support for
+good historical work. When there is a fortune for the man who writes in
+accordance with whatever form of self-appreciation happens for the
+moment to be popular, while a steady view and an accurate presentation
+of the past can find no sale, then that steady view and that accurate
+presentation cannot be pursued save by men who are wealthy, or by men
+who are endowed, but even wealthy men will hesitate to write what they
+know will not be read, and for history no one is endowed.
+
+Our Universities were framed for many purposes, of which the
+cultivation of learning was but one; in that one field, however, a
+particular form of learning was taken very seriously, and was pursued
+with admirable industry; I mean an acquaintance with and an imitation
+of the Latin and Greek Classics.
+
+It was a particular character of this form of learning that proficiency
+in it would lead to undisputed honours. The scholar recognized the
+superior scholar; the field of inquiry was by convention highly
+limited; it had been thoroughly explored; discussion upon such results
+as were doubtful did not involve a difference in general philosophy.
+
+With history it is otherwise. Whether such things have or have not
+happened, and, above all, if they have happened, the _way_ in which
+they have happened, is to our general judgment of contemporary men what
+evidence is to a criminal trial. Facts won’t give way. If, therefore,
+there are vested interests, moral or material, to be maintained,
+history is, of all the sciences or arts, that one most likely to suffer
+at the hands of those connected with such interests. Even where the
+truth will be of advantage to those interests, they are afraid of it,
+because the thorough discussion of it will involve the presentation of
+views disadvantageous to privilege.
+
+Where, as is much more commonly the case (for vested interests, moral
+or material, are unreasoning and selfish things), the truth would
+certainly offend them, they are the more determined to prevent its
+appearance.
+
+But of all vested interests none deal with such assured incomes, none
+are so immune by influence and tradition as the Universities.
+
+Now, if the rich man has no temptation by way of popular fame, and the
+poor man no opportunity for endowment, in any branch of letters, there
+remains but a third form of support, and that is the support of the
+buying public. And the public will not buy.
+
+I will suppose the case of a popular novelist, who in a few months
+shall write, not an historical novel, but a piece of so-called history.
+He shall call it, for instance, “England’s Heroes.” Before you tell me
+his name, or what he has written, I can tell you here and now what he
+will write on any number of points. He will call Hastings Senlac. In
+the Battle of Hastings he will make out Harold to be the head of a
+highly patriotic nation called the “Anglo-Saxons”; they shall be
+desperately defending themselves against certain French-speaking
+Scandinavians called Normans. He will deplore the defeat, but will say
+it was all for the best. Magna Charta he will have signed at
+Runnymede—probably he will have it drawn up there as well. He will
+translate the most famous clause by the modern words “Judgment of his
+peers” and “law of the land.” He will represent the Barons as having
+behind them the voice of the whole nation—and so forth. When he comes
+to Crécy he will make Edward III speak English. When he comes to
+Agincourt he will leave his readers as ignorant as himself upon the
+boundaries, numbers and power of the Burgundian faction. In the Civil
+War Oliver Cromwell will be an honest and not very rich gentleman of
+the middle-classes. The Parliamentary force will be that of the mass of
+the people against a few gallant but wicked aristocrats who follow the
+perfidious Charles. He will make no mention of the pay of the
+Ironsides. James II will be driven out by a popular uprising, in which
+the great Churchill will play an honourable and chivalric part. The
+loss of the American Colonies will be deplored, and will be ascribed to
+the folly of attempting to tax men of “Anglo-Saxon” blood, unless you
+grant them representation. The Continental troops will be treated as
+the descendants of Englishmen! The guns at Saratoga will be Colonial
+guns; the incapacity of the Fleet will not be touched upon. Here again,
+as in the case of the Battle of Hastings, all will be for the best, and
+there will be a few touching words upon the passionate affection now
+felt for Great Britain by the inhabitants of the United States. The
+defensive genius of Wellington will be represented as that of a general
+particularly great in the offensive. Talavera will be a victory. The
+Spanish Auxiliaries in the Peninsula will be contemptible. No guns will
+be abandoned before Coruña, but what are left at Coruña will be
+mentioned and re-embarked. The character of Nelson will receive a
+curious sort of glutinous praise; Emma Hamilton, not Naples, will be
+the stain upon his name; the Battle of Trafalgar will prevent the
+invasion of England.
+
+This is a lengthy but not unjust description of what this gentleman
+would write; it is rubbish from beginning to end. It would sell,
+because every word of it would foster in the reader the illusion that
+the community of which he is a member is invincible under all
+circumstances, that effort and self-denial and suffering are spared him
+alone out of all mankind, and that a little pleasurable excitement,
+preferably that to be obtained from his favourite game, is the chief
+factor in military success.
+
+I have omitted Alfred. Alfred in such a book will be the “teller of
+truth”—but he will not go to Mass.
+
+Given that the name is sufficiently well known, there is hardly any
+limit to the sale of a book modelled upon these lines. Contrast with
+its fate the fate of a book, written no matter how powerfully, that
+should insist upon truths, no matter how valuable to the English people
+at the present moment. These truths need by no means be unpleasant,
+though at the present moment an unpleasant truth is undoubtedly more
+valuable than a pleasant one. They could make as much or more for the
+glory of the country; they could be at any rate of infinitely greater
+service, but they would not be received, simply because they would
+compel close attention and brain-work in the reader as well as in the
+writer of them. An established groove would have to be abandoned; to
+use a strong metaphor, the reader would have to get out of bed, and
+that is what the modern reader will not do. Tell him that the men who
+fought on either side at Hastings’ plain cared nothing for national but
+everything for feudal allegiance; that _lex terrae_ means the local
+custom of ordeal and not the “law of the land”; tell him that _judicium
+parium_ means the right of a noble to be judged by nobles, and has
+nothing to do with the jury system; tell him that Magna Charta was
+certainly drawn up before the meeting at Runnymede; that not until the
+Lancastrians did English kings speak English; that Oliver Cromwell owed
+his position to the enormous wealth of the Williamses, of whom had he
+not been a cadet, he would never have been known; tell him that the
+whole force of the Parliament resided in the squires and that the Civil
+Wars turned England into an oligarchy; tell him the exact truth about
+the infamy of Churchill; tell him what proportion of Englishmen during
+the American War were taxed without being represented; tell him what
+proportion of Washington’s troops were of English blood; tell him any
+one illuminating and true thing about the history of his country, and
+the novelty will so offend him that a direct insult would have pleased
+him better.
+
+What is true of history is true of nearly all the rest, and the upshot
+of the whole matter is that there is not, either in private patronage
+or in popular demand, a chance for history in modern England.
+
+You can have excellent literature in journalism, and it will be widely
+read. I would say more—I would say that the better literature a
+newspaper admits, the more widely will that paper be read, or at any
+rate the greater will its influence be on modern Englishmen. But when
+it comes to the kneaded and wrought matter of the true Book, neither
+the public nor the centres of learning will have any of it, and the
+last medium which might make it possible, patronage, has equally
+disappeared, because the modern patron does not work in the daylight in
+the full view of the nation and with its full approbation, and he is no
+longer a public man (though he is richer than ever he was before). His
+patronage, therefore, though it is still considerable, is expended in
+satisfying his private demand. Private architects build him doubtful
+castles, private collectors get him manuscripts and jewels, but
+Letters, which are a public thing, he can no longer command.
+
+It might be asked, by way of conclusion, whether there is any remedy
+for this state of things. There is none. Its prime cause resides in a
+certain attitude of the national mind, and this kind of broadly held
+philosophy is not changed save by slow preaching or external shock. As
+long as modern England remains what we know it, and follows the lines
+of change which we see it following, the Book will necessarily decline
+more and more, and we must make up our minds to it.
+
+Of other evil tendencies of our time, one can say of some that they are
+obviously mending, of others that such and such an applicable remedy
+would mend them. Our public architecture is certainly getting better;
+so is our painting. Our gross and increasing contempt of
+self-government (to take quite another sphere) is curable by one or two
+simple reforms in procedure, registration, the expenses of election,
+and voting at the polls, which would restore the House of Commons to
+life, and give it power to express English will. But a regard for, a
+cultivation of, above all a sinking of wealth upon, English Letters is
+past praying for. We must wait until the tide changes; we can do
+nothing, and the waiting will be long.
+
+
+
+
+José Maria de Heredia
+
+
+The French have a phrase “la beauté du verbe” by which they would
+express a something in the sound and in the arrangement of words which
+supplements whatever mere thought those words were intended to express.
+It is evident that no definition of this beauty can be given, but it is
+also evident that without it letters would not exist. How it arises we
+cannot explain, yet the process is familiar to us in everything we do
+when we are attempting to fulfil an impulse towards whatever is good.
+An integration not of many small things but of an infinite series of
+infinitely small things build up the perfect gesture, the perfect line,
+the perfect intonation, and the perfect phrase. So indeed are all
+things significant built up: every tone of the voice, every arrangement
+of landscape or of notes in music which awake us and reveal the things
+beyond. But when one says that this is especially true of perfect
+expression one means that sometimes, rarely, the integration achieves a
+steadfast and sufficient formula. The mind is satisfied rather than
+replete. It asks no more; and if it desires to enjoy further the
+pleasure such completion has given it, it does not attempt to prolong
+or to develop the pleasure under which it has leapt; it is content to
+wait a while and to return, knowing well that it has here a treasure
+laid up for ever.
+
+All this may be expressed in two words: the Classical Spirit. That is
+Classic of which it is true that the enjoyment is sufficient when it is
+terminated and that in the enjoyment of it an entity is revealed.
+
+When men propose to bequeath to their fellows work of so supreme a kind
+it is to be noticed that they choose by instinct a certain material.
+
+It has been said that the material in which he works affects the
+achievement of the artist: it is truer to say that it helps him. A man
+designing a sculpture in marble knows very well what he is about to do.
+A man attempting the exact and restrained rendering of tragedy upon the
+stage does not choose the stage as one among many methods, he is drawn
+to it: he needs it; the audience, the light, the evening, the very
+slope of the boards, all minister to his efforts. And so a man
+determined to produce the greatest things in verse takes up by nature
+exact and thoughtful words and finds that their rhythm, their
+combination, and their sound turn under his hand to something greater
+than he himself at first intended; he becomes a creator, and his name
+is linked with the name of a masterpiece. The material in which he has
+worked is hard; the price he has paid is an exceeding effect; the
+reward he has earned is permanence.
+
+José de Heredia was an artist of this kind. The mass of the verse he
+produced, or rather published, was small. It might have been very
+large. It is not (as a foolish modern affectation will sometimes
+pretend) necessary to the endurance or even the excellence of work that
+it should be the product of exceptional moments; nor is it even true
+(as the wise Ancients believed) that great length of time must always
+mature it. But the small volume of Heredia’s legacy to European letters
+does argue this at least in the poet, that he passionately loved
+perfection and that, finding himself able to achieve it (for perfection
+can be achieved) but now and then, he chose only to be remembered by
+the contentment which, now and then, his own genius had given him.
+
+He worked upon verse as men work upon the harder metals; all that he
+did was chiselled very finely, then sawn to an exact configuration and
+at last inlaid, for when he published his completed volume it is true
+to say that every piece fitted in with the sound of one before and of
+one after. He was careful in the heroic degree.
+
+His blood and descent are worthy of notice. He was a Spaniard,
+inheriting from the first Conquerors of the New World, nor was it
+remarkable to those who have received a proper enthusiasm for the
+classical spirit that the energy and even the violence natural to such
+a lineage should express themselves in the coldest and the most exalted
+form when, for the second time, a member of the family attempted verse.
+It is in the essence of that spirit that it alone can dare to be
+disciplined. It never doubts the motive power that will impel it; it is
+afraid, if anything, of an excess of power, and consciously imposes
+upon itself the limits which give it form.
+
+Heredia in his person expressed the activity which impelled him, for he
+was strong, brown, erect, a rapid walker, and a man whose voice was
+perpetually modulated in resonant and powerful tones. In his last years
+during his administration of the Library at the Arsenal this vitality
+of his took on an aspect of good nature very charming and very
+fruitful. His organization of the place was thorough, his knowledge of
+the readers intimate. He refused the manuscripts of none, he advised,
+laughed, and consoled. His criticism was sure. Several, notably Marcel
+Prevost, were launched by his authority. The same deep security of
+literary judgment which had permitted him to chastise and to perfect
+his impeccable sonnets into their final form permitted him also to hold
+up before his eyes, grasp, and judge the work of every other man.
+
+His frailty, as must always be the frailty of such men, was
+fastidiousness. The same sensitive consciousness which is said to have
+all but lost us the Aeneid, and which certainly all but lost us the
+Apologia, dominated his otherwise vigorous soul. It is more than forty
+years since his first verse, written just upon achieving his majority,
+appeared in the old _Revue de Paris_ and in the _Revue des Deux
+Mondes_. It was not till 1893 that he collected in one volume the
+scattered sonnets of his youth and middle age: the collection won him
+somewhat tardily his chair in the Academy. There is irony in the
+reminiscence that the man he defeated in that election was Zola.
+
+All the great men who saluted his advent are dead. Théophile Gautier,
+who first established his fame; Hugo, who addressed to him, perhaps,
+that vigorous appeal in which strict labour is deified, and the medal
+and the marble bust are shown to outlive the greatest glories, are
+sometimes quoted as the last among the great French writers.
+
+The immediate future will show that the stream of French excellence in
+this department, as in any other of human activity, is full, deep, and
+steady. The work of Heredia will help to prove it. He was a Spaniard,
+and a Colonial Spaniard. No other nation, perhaps, except the modern
+French, so inherit the romantic appetite of the later Roman Empire as
+to be able to mould and absorb every exterior element of excellence. It
+is remarkable that at the same moment Paris contemplated the funeral of
+the Italian de Brazza and the death of the Cuban Heredia. It is
+probable that those of us who are still young will live to see either
+name at the head of a new tradition. Heredia proved it possible not so
+much to imitate as to recapture the secure tradition of an older time.
+Perhaps the truest generalization that can be made with regard to the
+French people is to say that they especially in Western Europe (whose
+quality it is ever to transform itself but never to die) discover new
+springs of vitality after every period of defeat and aridity which they
+are compelled to cross. Heredia will prove in the near future a capital
+example of this power. He will increase silently in reputation until
+we, in old age, shall be surprised to find our sons and grandsons
+taking him for granted and speaking of him as one speaks of the
+Majores, of the permanent lights of poetry.
+
+
+
+
+Normandy and the Normans
+
+
+There is no understanding a country unless one gets to know the nature
+of its sub-units. In some way not easy to comprehend, impossible to
+define, and yet very manifest, each of the great national organisms of
+which Christendom is built up is itself a body of many regions whose
+differences and interaction endow it with a corporate life. No one
+could understand the past of England who did not grasp the local genius
+of the counties—Lancashire, cut off eastward by the Pennines, southward
+by the belt of marsh, with no natural entry save by the gate of
+Stockport; Sussex, which was and is a bishopric and a kingdom; Kent,
+Devon, the East Anglian meres. No one could (or does) understand modern
+England who does not see its sub-units to have become by now the great
+industrial towns, or who fails to seize the spirit of each group of
+such towns—with London lying isolated in the south, a negative to the
+rest.
+
+France is built of such sub-units: it is the peculiarity of French
+development that these are not small territories mainly of an average
+extent with government answerable in a long day’s ride to one centre,
+such as most English counties are; nor city States such as form the
+piles upon which the structure of Italy has been raised; nor kingdoms
+such as coalesced to reform the Spanish people; but _provinces_,
+differing greatly in area, from little plains enclosed, like the
+Rousillon, to great stretches of landscape succeeding landscape like
+the Bourbonnais or the Périgord.
+
+The real continuity with an immemorial past which inspires all Gallic
+things is discoverable in this arrangement of Gaul. At the first glance
+one might imagine a French province to be a chance growth of the feudal
+ties and of the Middle Ages. A further effort of scholarship will prove
+it essentially Roman. An intimate acquaintance with its customs and
+with the site of its strongholds, coupled with a comparison of the most
+recent and most fruitful hypotheses of historians, will convince you
+that it is earlier than the Roman conquest; it is tribal, or the home
+of a group of cognate tribes, and its roots are lost in prehistory. So
+it is with Normandy.
+
+This vast territory—larger (I think) than all North England from the
+Humber to Cheviot and from Chester to the Solway—has never formed a
+nation. It is typical of the national idea in France that Normandy
+should have “held” of the political centre of the country, probably
+since the first Gallic confederations were formed, certainly since the
+organization of the Empire. It is equally typical of the local life of
+a French province that, thus dependent, Normandy should have strictly
+preserved its manner and its spirit, and should have readily made war
+upon the Crown and resisted, as it still resists and will perhaps for
+ever, the centralizing forces of the national temper.
+
+If you will travel day after day, and afoot, westward across the length
+of Normandy, you will have, if you are a good walker, a fortnight’s
+task ahead of you; even if you are walking for a wager, a week’s. It is
+the best way in which to possess a knowledge of that great land, and my
+advice would be to come in from the Picards over the bridge of Aumale
+across the little River Bresle (which is the boundary of Normandy to
+the east), and to go out by way of Pontorson, there crossing into
+Brittany over the little River Couesnon, which is the boundary of
+Normandy upon the west and beyond which lie the Bretons. In this way
+will you be best acquainted with the sharp differentiation of the
+French provinces passing into Normandy from Picardy, brick-built,
+horse-breeding, and slow, passing out of Normandy into the desolation
+and dreams of Brittany, and having known between the one and the other
+the chalk streams, the day-long beechen forests, the valley pastures,
+and the flamboyant churches of the Normans. You will do well to go by
+Neufchâtel, where the cheese is made, and by Rouen, then by Lisieux to
+Falaise, where the Conqueror was born, and thence by Vive to Avranches
+and so to the Breton border, taking care to choose the forests between
+one town and another for your road, since these many and deep
+woods—much wider than any we know in England—are in great part the soul
+of the country.
+
+By this itinerary you will not have taken all you should into view; you
+will not have touched the coast nor seen how Normandy is based upon the
+sea, and you will not have known the Cotentin, which is a little State
+of its own and is the quadrilateral which Normandy thrusts forth into
+the Channel. If you have the leisure, therefore, return by the north.
+Pass through Coutances and Valognes to Cherbourg, thence through Caen
+and Bayeux to the crossing of Seine at Honfleur, and then on by the
+chalk uplands and edges of the cliffs till you reach Eu upon the Bresle
+again. In such a double journey the character of the whole will be
+revealed, and if you have studied the past of the place before starting
+you will find your journey full. Avranches, Coutances, Lisieux, Bayeux,
+Rouen are not chance sites. Their great churches mark the bishoprics;
+the bishoprics in turn were the administrative centres of Rome, and
+Rome chose them because they were the strongholds or the sacred cities
+each of a Gallic tribe. The wealth of the valleys permitted everywhere
+that astonishing richness of detail which marks the stonework in
+village after village; the connexion with England, especially the last
+connexion under Henry V, explains the innumerable churches, splendid
+even in hamlets as are our own. The Bresle and the Couesnon, those
+little streams, are boundaries not of these last few centuries, but of
+a time beyond view; the Romans found them so. Diocletian made them the
+limits of the “Second Lyonesse,” “Lugdunensis Secunda,” which was the
+last Roman name of the province.
+
+Here and there, near the west especially, you will discover names which
+recall the chief adventure of Normandy, the accident which baptized it
+with its Christian name, the landing of the Scandinavian pirates, the
+thousandth anniversary of which is now being celebrated. They came—we
+cannot tell in what numbers, some thousands—and harried the land. The
+old policy of the Empire, the policy already seven hundred years old,
+was had recourse to; the barbarians were granted settlement,
+inheritance, marriage, and partnership with the Lords of the Villae;
+their chief was permitted to hold local government, to tax and to levy
+men as the administrator of the whole province; but there followed
+something which wherever else the experiment had been tried had not
+followed: something of a new race arose. In Burgundy, in the northeast,
+in Visigothic Aquitaine the slight admixture of foreign blood had not
+changed the people, it was absorbed; the slight admixture of
+Scandinavian blood, coming so much later, in a time so degraded in
+government and therefore so open to natural influence, did change the
+Gallo-Romans of the Second Lyonesse. Few as the newcomers may have been
+in number, the new element transformed the mass, and when a century had
+permitted the union to work and settle, the great soldiers who founded
+us appeared. The Norman lords ordered, surveyed, codified, and ruled.
+They let Europe into England, they organized Sicily, they confirmed the
+New Papacy, they were the framework of the Crusades.
+
+The phenomenon was brief. It lasted little more than a hundred years,
+but it transformed Europe and launched the Middle Ages. When it had
+passed, Normandy stood confirmed for centuries (and is still confirmed)
+in a character of its own. No longer adventurous but mercantile, apt,
+of a resisting courage, sober in thought, leaning upon tradition, not
+imperially but domestically strong: the country of Corneille and of
+Malesherbes, a reflection of that spirit in letters; the conservative
+body of to-day—for in our generation that is the mark of Normandy—and,
+in arms, the recruitment to which Napoleon addressed his short and
+famous order that “the Normans that day should do their duty.”
+
+
+
+
+The Old Things
+
+
+Those who travel about England for their pleasure, or, for that matter,
+about any part of Western Europe, rightly associate with such travel
+the pleasure of history; for history adds to a man, giving him, as it
+were, a great memory of things—like a human memory, but stretched over
+a far longer space than that of one human life. It makes him, I do not
+say wise and great, but certainly in communion with wisdom and
+greatness.
+
+It adds also to the soil he treads, for to this it adds meaning. How
+good it is when you come out of Tewkesbury by the Cheltenham road to
+look upon those fields to the left and know that they are not only
+pleasant meadows, but also the place in which a great battle of the
+mediaeval monarchy was decided, or as you stand by that ferry, which is
+not known enough to Englishmen (for it is one of the most beautiful
+things in England), and look back and see Tewkesbury tower, framed
+between tall trees over the level of the Severn, to see also the Abbey
+buildings in your eye of the mind—a great mass of similar stone with
+solid Norman walls, stretching on hugely to the right of the Minster.
+
+All this historical sense and the desire to marry History with Travel
+is very fruitful and nourishing, but there is another interest, allied
+to it, which is very nearly neglected, and which is yet in a way more
+fascinating and more full of meaning. This interest is the interest in
+such things as lie behind recorded history, and have survived into our
+own times. For underneath the general life of Europe, with its splendid
+epic of great Rome turned Christian, crusading, discovering, furnishing
+the springs of the Renaissance, and flowering at last materially into
+this stupendous knowledge of today, the knowledge of all the Arts, the
+power to construct and to do—underneath all that is the foundation on
+which Europe is built, the stem from which Europe springs; and that
+stem is far, far older than any recorded history, and far, far more
+vital than any of the phenomena which recorded history presents.
+
+Recorded history for this island and for Northern France and for the
+Rhine Valley is a matter of two thousand years; for the Western
+Mediterranean of three; but the things of which I speak are to be
+reckoned in tens of thousands of years. Their interest does not lie
+only nor even chiefly in things that have disappeared. It is indeed a
+great pleasure to rummage in the earth and find polished stones wrought
+by men who came so many centuries before us, and of whose blood we
+certainly are; and it is a great pleasure to find, or to guess that we
+find, under Canterbury the piles of a lake or marsh dwelling, proving
+that Canterbury has been there from all time; and that the apparently
+defenceless Valley City was once chosen as an impregnable site, when
+the water-meadows of the Stour were impassable as marsh, or with
+difficulty passable as a shallow lagoon. And it is delightful to stand
+on the earthwork a few miles west and to say to oneself (as one can say
+with a fair certitude), “Here was the British camp defending the
+south-east; here the tenth legion charged.” All these are pleasant, but
+more pleasant, I think, to follow the thing where it actually survives.
+
+Consider the track-ways, for instance. How rich is England in these! No
+other part of Europe will afford the traveller so permanent and so
+fascinating a problem. Elsewhere Rome hardened and straightened every
+barbaric trail until the original line and level disappeared; but in
+this distant province of Britain she could only afford just so much
+energy as made them a foothold for her soldiery; and all over England
+you can go, if you choose, foot by foot, along the ancient roads that
+were made by the men of your blood before they had heard of brick or of
+stone or of iron or of written laws.
+
+I wonder that more men do not set out to follow, let us say, the
+Fosse-Way. There it runs right across Western England from the
+south-west to the north-east in a line direct yet sinuous, characters
+which are the very essence of a savage trail. It is a modern road for
+many miles, and you are tramping, let us say, along the Cotswold on a
+hard metalled modern English highway, with milestones and notices from
+the County Council telling you that the culverts will not bear a
+steam-engine, if so be you were to travel on one. Then suddenly this
+road comes up against a cross-road and apparently ceases, making what
+map draughtsmen call a “T”; but right in the same line you see a gate,
+and beyond it a farm lane, and so you follow. You come to a spinney
+where a ride has been cut through by the woodreeve, and it is all in
+the same line. The Fosse-Way turns into a little path, but you are
+still on it; it curves over a marshy brook-valley, picking out the firm
+land, and as you go you see old stones put there heaven knows how many
+(or how few) generations ago—or perhaps yesterday, for the tradition
+remains, and the country-folk strengthen their wet lands as they have
+strengthened them all these thousands of years; you climb up out of
+that depression, you get you over a stile, and there you are again upon
+a lane. You follow that lane, and once more it stops dead. This time
+there is a field before you. No right of way, no trace of a path,
+nothing but grass rounded into those parallel ridges which mark the
+modern decay of the corn lands and pasture—alas!—taking the place of
+ploughing. Now your pleasure comes in casting about for the trail; you
+look back along the line of the Way; you look forward in the same line
+till you find some indication, a boundary between two parishes, perhaps
+upon your map, or two or three quarries set together, or some other
+sign, and very soon you have picked up the line again.
+
+So you go on mile after mile, and as you tread that line you have in
+the horizons that you see, in the very nature and feel of the soil
+beneath your feet, in the skies of England above you, the ancient
+purpose and soul of this Kingdom. Up this same line went the Clans
+marching when they were called Northward to the host; and up this went
+slow, creaking wagons with the lead of the Mendips or the tin of
+Cornwall or the gold of Wales.
+
+And it is still there; it is still used from place to place as a high
+road, it still lives in modern England. There are some of its peers, as
+for instance the Ermine Street, far more continuous, and affording
+problems more rarely; others like the ridgeway of the Berkshire Downs,
+which Rome hardly touched, and of which the last two thousand years
+has, therefore, made hardly anything; you may spend a delightful day
+piecing out exactly where it crossed the Thames, making your guess at
+it, and wondering as you sit there by Streatley Vicarage whether those
+islands did not form a natural weir below which lay the ford.
+
+The roads are the most obvious things. There are many more; for
+instance, thatch. The same laying of the straw in the same manner, with
+the same art, has continued, we may be certain, from a time long before
+the beginning of history. See how in the Fen Land they thatch with
+reeds, and how upon the Chalk Downs with straw from the Lowlands. I
+remember once being told of a record in a manor, which held of the
+Church and which lay upon the southern slope of the Downs, that so much
+was entered for “straw from the Lowlands”: then, years afterwards, when
+I had to thatch a Bethlehem in an orchard underneath tall elms—a
+pleasant place to write in, with the noise of bees in the air—the man
+who came to thatch said to me: “We must have straw from the Lowlands;
+this upland straw is no good for thatching.” Immediately when I heard
+him say this there was added to me ten thousand years. And I know
+another place in England, far distant from this, where a man said to me
+that if I wished to cross in a winter mist, as I had determined to do,
+Cross-Fell, that great summit of the Pennines, I must watch the drift
+of the snow, for there was no other guide to one’s direction in such
+weather. And I remember another man in a little boat in the North Sea,
+as we came towards the Foreland, talking to me of the two tides, and
+telling me how if one caught the tide all the way up to Long Nose and
+then went round it on the end of the flood, one caught a new tide up
+London river, and so made two tides in one day. He spoke with the same
+pleasure that silly men show when they talk about an accumulation of
+money. He felt wealthy and proud from the knowledge, for by this
+knowledge he had two tides in one day. Now knowledge of this sort is
+older than ten thousand years; and so is the knowledge of how birds
+fly, and of how they call, and of how the weather changes with the
+moon.
+
+Very many things a man might add to the list that I am making. Dew-pans
+are older than the language or the religion; and the finding of water
+with a stick; and the catching of that smooth animal, the mole; and the
+building of flints into mortar, which if one does it in the old way (as
+you may see at Pevensey) the work lasts for ever, but if you do it in
+any new way it does not last ten years; then there is the knowledge of
+planting during the crescent part of the month, but not before the new
+moon shows; and there is the influence of the moon on cider, and to a
+less extent upon the brewing of ale; and talking of ale, the knowledge
+of how ale should be drawn from the brewing just when a man can see his
+face without mist upon the surface of the hot brew. And there is the
+knowledge of how to bank rivers, which is called “throwing the rives”
+in the South, but in the Fen Land by some other name; and how to bank
+them so that they do not silt, but scour themselves. There are these
+things and a thousand others. All are immemorial.
+
+
+
+
+The Battle of Hastings. Related in the Manner of Oxford and Dedicated
+to that University
+
+
+So careless were the French commanders (or more properly the French
+commander, for the rest were cowed by the bullying swagger of William)
+that the night, which should have been devoted to some sort of
+reconnaissance, if not of a preparation of the ground, was devoted to
+nothing more practical than the religious exercises peculiar to
+foreigners.
+
+Their army, as we have seen, was not drawn from any one land, but it
+was in the majority composed of Normans and Bretons; we can therefore
+understand the extravagant superstition which must bear the blame for
+what followed.
+
+Meanwhile, upon the heights above, the English host calmly prepared for
+battle. Fires were lit each in its appointed place, and at these meat
+was cooked under the stern but kindly eyes of the sergeant-majors.
+These also distributed at an appointed price liquor, of which the
+British soldier is never willing to be deprived, and as the hours
+advanced towards morning, the songs in which our adventurous race has
+ever delighted rose from the heights above the Brede.
+
+The morning was misty, as is often the case over damp and marshy lands
+in the month of October, but the inclemency of the weather, or, to
+speak more accurately, the superfluous moisture precipitated from an
+already saturated atmosphere, was of no effect upon those silent and
+tenacious troops of Harold. It was far other with the so-called
+“Norman” host, who were full of forebodings—only too amply to be
+justified—of the fate that lay before them upon the morrow.
+
+It is curious to contrast the quiet skill and sagacity which marked the
+disposition of Harold with the almost childish simplicity of William’s
+plan—if plan it may be called.
+
+The Saxon hosts were drawn along the ridge in a position chosen with
+masterly skill. It afforded (as may still be seen) no dead ground for
+an attacking force and little cover.[1] Their left was arranged _en
+potence_, their right was drawn up in echelon. The centre followed the
+plan usual at that time, reposing upon the wings to its right and left
+and extended. The reserves were, of course, posted behind. Cavalry, as
+at Omdurman, played but a slight role in this typically national action
+and such mounted troops as were present seem to have been intermixed
+with the line in the fashion later known, in the jargon of the service,
+as “The Beggar’s Quadrille.” The Brigade of Guards is not mentioned in
+any record that I can discover, but was probably set by reversed
+companies in a square perpendicular to the main ravine and a little in
+front of the salient angle which appears upon the map at the point
+marked A.
+
+The terrain can be clearly determined at the present day in spite of
+the changes that have taken place in the intervening years. It is a
+fairly steep slope of hemispherical contour interspersed with low
+bushes; the summit (upon which now stands our lovely English village of
+Battle and the residence of one of those cultured and leisured men who
+form the framework of our commonwealth) was then but a wild heath.
+
+Harold himself could be distinguished in the centre of the line by his
+handsome features, restrained deportment, and unfailing gentlemanly
+good sense as he spoke to staff officer, orderly, and even groom with
+indefatigable skill.
+
+In spite of the determination observable from a great distance upon the
+faces of the tall Saxon line, William with characteristic lack of
+balance opened the action by ordering a charge uphill with cavalry
+alone; it was a piece of tactics absurdly incongruous and one even he
+would never have attempted had he understood the foe that was before
+him, or the fate to which that foe had doomed him.
+
+The lesson dealt him was as immediate as it was severe. The foreigners
+were thrust headlong down the hill, and a private letter tells us how
+the Men of Kent in particular buffeted the Normans about “as though
+they were boys.” But even in the heat of this initial success Harold
+had the self-command to order the retirement upon the main position:
+and with troops such as his the order was equivalent to its execution.
+
+This rude blow would have sufficed for any commander less vain than
+William, but he seems to have lost all judgment in a fit of personal
+vanity and to have ordered a second charge which could not but prove as
+futile as the first, delivered as it was up a perfect glacis
+strengthened by epaulements, reverses and countersunk galvon work and
+one whose natural strength was heightened by the stockade which the
+indomitable energy of Harold’s troops had perfected in the early hours
+of the morning. Many of the stakes in this, the reader may note with
+pardonable pride, were of English oak—sharpened at the tip.
+
+William’s plan (if plan it may be called) was, as we have seen,
+necessarily futile and was foredoomed to failure. But Harold had no
+intention to let the action bear no more fruit than a tactical victory
+upon this particular field. The brain that had designed the exact
+synchrony of Stamford Bridge and the famous march southward from the
+Humber was of that sort which is only found once in many centuries of
+the history of war and which is (it may be said without boasting)
+peculiar to this island.
+
+Another general would have awaited the second charge with its useless
+butchery and still more useless contest for the barren name of victory.
+Not so Harold. Those commanding, cold grey eyes of his swept the line
+in a comprehensive glance, and though no written record of the detail
+remains, he must know little of the character of the man who does not
+understand that from Harold certainly proceeded the order for what
+followed.
+
+The forces at the centre, which he commanded in person, deftly withdrew
+before the futile gallop of William’s cavalry, leaving, with that
+coolness which has ever distinguished our troops, the laggards to their
+fate. At the same moment, and with marvellous precision, the left and
+right were withdrawn from the plateau rapidly and as by magic, and the
+old-fashioned tactics of mere impact (which William of Normandy seems
+seriously to have relied on!) were spent and wasted upon the now
+evacuated summit of the hill.
+
+What followed is famous in history.
+
+The cohesion of the Saxon force and the exactitude and coolness with
+which its great operation was performed is of good augury for the
+future of our country. Though it was now thick night, by no set road
+and with no cumbersome machinery of train and rear-guard, the whole of
+the vast assembly masked itself behind the woodlands of the Weald.
+
+The Norman horsemen, bewildered and fatigued, gazed on the many that
+had fallen in defence of the masking position and wondered whether such
+novel happenings were victory or no, but the army whose concentration
+upon the Thames it was William’s whole object to prevent, was already
+miles northward, each unit proceeding by exactly co-ordinated routes
+towards London.
+
+There is perhaps no more difficult task set before soldiers than the
+quiet execution of such a manoeuvre after the heat of a heavy action,
+and none have performed it more magnificently than the veteran troop of
+Harold.
+
+When (luckily) all the orders had been finally distributed a great
+tragedy marred the completeness of the day.
+
+Just before the execution of this masterpiece of strategy, and as the
+autumn sun was sinking, the inevitable price which war demands of all
+its darlings was paid.
+
+Harold himself, the artist of the great victory, fell. But we have no
+reason to believe that his loss retarded the retrograding movement in
+any degree. Men who create as Harold created have not their creations
+spoilt by death.
+
+
+The shameful history of the close of the campaign is familiar to every
+schoolboy, and the military historian must be pardoned if he deals with
+a purely civilian blunder in a few brief words.
+
+Parliament interfered—as it always does—with what should have been a
+matter for soldiers alone. Intrigues, bribery, or worse (with which the
+military historian has no concern) ruined what had been, in the field,
+one of the principal achievements of the Saxon arms. And William, who
+could not count to hold his own against regular forces and who was
+astonished to find himself free to retreat precipitately on Dover, was
+still more astonished to find himself accepted a few weeks later after
+an aimless march to the west and north by the politicians—or worse—at
+Berkhampstead. He and England were equally astounded to find that a
+broken and defeated invader could actually be accepted by the
+intriguers at Westminster and crowned King of England as the price of a
+secret bargain.
+
+Such was the fruit of as great and successful an effort as ever Saxon
+soldier made: the Battle of Senlac: for such—as I am now free to
+reveal—was the true name of the field of action.
+
+The ineptitude or avarice of politicians had undone the work of
+soldiers, and it is no wonder that the last of Harold’s veterans, who
+retired in disgust to impregnable fortresses in Ely, Arthur’s Seat, and
+Pudsey, are recorded to have gnashed their teeth and shed tears of
+indignation at the dispatches from the metropolis. At Crécy they were
+to be avenged.
+
+
+
+
+The Roman Roads in Picardy
+
+
+If a man were asked where he would find upon the map the sharpest
+impress of Rome and of the memories of Rome, and where he would most
+easily discover in a few days on foot the foundations upon which our
+civilization still rests, he might, in proportion to his knowledge of
+history and of Europe, be puzzled to reply. He might say that a week
+along the wall from Tyne to Solway would be the answer; or a week in
+the great Roman cities of Provence with their triumphal arches and
+their vast arenas and their Roman stone cropping out everywhere: in old
+quays, in ruined bridges, in the very pavement of the streets they use
+to-day, and in the columns of their living churches.
+
+Now I was surprised to find myself after many years of dabbling in such
+things, furnishing myself the answer in quite a different place. It was
+in Picardy during the late manoeuvres of the French Army that, in the
+intervals of watching those great buzzing flies, the aeroplanes, and in
+the intervals of long tramps after the regiments or of watching the
+massed guns, the necessity for perpetually consulting the map brought
+home to me for the first time this truth—that Picardy is the
+province—or to be more accurate, Picardy with its marches in the Île de
+France, the edge of Normandy and the edge of Flanders—which retains
+to-day the most vivid impress of Rome. For though the great buildings
+are lacking, and the Roman work, which must here have been mainly of
+brick, has crumbled, and though I can remember nothing upstanding and
+patently of the Empire between the gate of Rheims and the frontier of
+Artois, yet one feature—the Roman road—is here so evident, so multiple,
+and so enduring that it makes up for all the rest.
+
+One discovers the old roads upon the map, one after the other, with a
+sort of surprise. The scheme develops before one as one looks, and
+always when one thinks one has completed the web another and yet
+another straight arrow of a line reveals itself across the page.
+
+The map is a sort of palimpsest. A mass of fine modern roads, a whole
+red blur of lanes and local ways, the big, rare black lines of the
+railway—these are the recent writing, as it were; but underneath the
+whole, more and more apparent and in greater and greater numbers as one
+learns to discover them, are the strict, taut lines which Rome
+stretched over all those plains.
+
+There is something most fascinating in noting them, and discovering
+them one after the other.
+
+For they need discovering. No one of them is still in complete use. The
+greater part must be pieced together from lengths of lanes which turn
+into broad roads, and then suddenly sink again into footpaths, rights
+of way, or green forest rides.
+
+Often, as with our rarer Roman roads in England, all trace of the thing
+disappears under the plough or in the soft crossings of the river
+valleys; one marks them by the straightness of their alignment, by the
+place names which lie upon them (the repeated name Estrée, for
+instance, which is like the place name “street” upon the Roman roads of
+England); by the recovery of them after a gap; by the discoveries which
+local archaeology has made.
+
+Different men have different pastimes, and I dare say that most of
+those who read this will wonder that such a search should be a pastime
+for any man, but I confess it is a pastime for me. To discover these
+things, to recreate them, to dig out on foot the base upon which two
+thousand years of history repose, is the most fascinating kind of
+travel.
+
+And then, the number of them! You may take an oblong of country with
+Maubeuge at one corner, Pontoise at another, Yvetot and some frontier
+town such as Fumes for the other two corners, and in that stretch of
+country a hundred and fifty miles by perhaps two hundred, you can build
+up a scheme of Roman ways almost as complete as the scheme of the great
+roads to-day.
+
+That one which most immediately strikes the eye is the great line which
+darts upon Rouen from Paris.
+
+Twice broken at the crossing of the river valleys, and lost altogether
+in the last twelve miles before the capital of Normandy, it still
+stands on the modern map a great modern road with every aspect of
+purpose and of intention in its going.
+
+From Amiens again they radiate out, these roads, some, like the way to
+Cambray, in use every mile; some, like the old marching road to the
+sea, to the Portus Itius, to Boulogne, a mere lane often wholly lost
+and never used as a great modern road. This was the way along which the
+French feudal cavalry trailed to the disaster of Crécy, and just beyond
+Crécy it goes and loses itself in that exasperating but fascinating
+manner which is the whole charm of Roman roads wherever the hunter
+finds them. You may lay a ruler along this old forgotten track, all the
+way past Domqueur, Novelle (which is called Novelle-en-Chaussée, that
+is Novelle on the paved road), on past Estrée (where from the height
+you overlook the battlefield of Crécy), and that ruler so lying on your
+map points right at Boulogne Harbour, thirty odd miles away—and in all
+those thirty odd remaining miles I could not find another yard of it.
+But what an interest! What a hobby to develop! There is nothing like it
+in all the kinds of hunting that have ever been invented for filling up
+the whole of the mind. True, you will get no sauce of danger, but, on
+the other hand, you will hunt for weeks and weeks, and you will come
+back year after year and go on with your hunting, and sometimes you
+actually find—which is more than can be said for hunting some animals
+in the Weald.
+
+How was it lost, this great main road of Europe, this marching road of
+the legions, linking up Gaul and Britain, the way that Hadrian went,
+and the way down which the usurper Constantine III must have come
+during that short adventure of his which lends such a romance to the
+end of the Empire? One cannot conceive why it should have disappeared.
+It is a sunken way down the hillside across the light railway which
+serves Crécy, it gets vaguer and vaguer, for all the world like those
+ridges upon the chalk that mark the Roman roads in England, and then it
+is gone. It leaves you pointing, I say, at that distant harbour, thirty
+odd miles off, but over all those miles it has vanished. The ghost of
+the legends cannot march along it any more. In one place you find a few
+yards of it about three miles south and east of Montreuil. It may be
+that the little lane leading into Estrée shows where it crossed the
+valley of the Cauche, but it is all guesswork, and therefore very
+proper to the huntsman.
+
+Then there is that unbroken line by which St. Martin came, I think,
+when he rode into Amiens, and at the gate of the town cut his cloak in
+two to cover the beggar. It drives across country for Roye and on to
+Noyon, the old centre of the Kings. It is a great modern road all the
+way, and it stretches before you mile after mile after mile, until
+suddenly, without explanation and for no reason, it ends sharply, like
+the life of a man. It ends on the slopes of the hill called Choisy, at
+the edge of the wood which is there. And seek as you will, you will
+never find it again.
+
+From that road also, near Amiens, branches out another, whose object
+was St. Quentin, first as a great high road, lost in the valley of the
+Somme, a lesser road again, still in one strict alignment, it reaches
+on to within a mile of Vermand, and there it stops dead. I do not think
+that between Vermand and St. Quentin you will find it. Go out
+north-westward from Vermand and walk perhaps five miles, or seven:
+there is no trace of a road, only the rare country lanes winding in and
+out, and the open plough of the rolling land. But continue by your
+compass so and you will come (suddenly again and with no apparent
+reason for its abrupt origin) upon the dead straight line that ran from
+the capital of the Nervii, three days’ march and more, and pointing all
+the time straight at Vermand.
+
+And so it is throughout the province and its neighbourhood. Here and
+there, as at Bavai, a great capital has decayed. Here and there (but
+more rarely), a town wholly new has sprung up since the Romans, but the
+plan of the country is the same as that which they laid down, and the
+roads as you discover them, mark it out and establish it. The armies
+that you see marching to-day in their manoeuvres follow for half a
+morning the line which was taken by the Legions.
+
+
+
+
+The Reward of Letters
+
+
+It has often been remarked that while all countries in the world
+possess some sort of literature, as Iceland her Sagas, England her
+daily papers, France her prose writers and dramatists, and even Prussia
+her railway guides, one nation and one alone, the Empire of Monomotopa,
+is utterly innocent of this embellishment or frill.
+
+No traveller records the existence of any Monomotopan quill-driver; no
+modern visitor to that delightful island has come across a
+_littérateur_ whether in the worse or in the best hotels; and such
+reading as the inhabitants enjoy is entirely confined to works imported
+by large steamers from the neighbouring Antarctic Continent.
+
+The causes of this singular and happy state of affairs were unknown
+(since the common histories did not mention them) until the recent
+discovery by Mr. Paley, the chief authority upon Monomotopan hieratic
+script, of a very ancient inscription which clearly sets forth the
+whole business.
+
+It seems that an Emperor of Monomotopa, whose date can be accurately
+fixed by internal evidence to lie after the universal deluge and before
+the building of the Pyramid of Cheops, was, upon his accession to the
+throne, particularly concerned with the just repartition of taxes among
+his beloved subjects.
+
+It would seem (if we are to trust the inscription) that in a past still
+more remote the taxes were so light that even the richest men would
+meet them promptly and without complaining, but this was at a period
+when the enemies of Monomotopa were at once distant and actively
+engaged in quarrelling among themselves. With sickening treachery these
+distant rival nations had determined to produce wealth and to live in
+amity, so that it was incumbent upon the Monomotopans not only to build
+ships, but actually to provide an army, and at last (what broke the
+camel’s back) to establish fortifications of a very useless but
+expensive sort upon a dozen points of their Imperial coast.
+
+Under the increasing strain the old fiscal system broke down. The poor
+were clearly embarrassed, as might be seen in their emaciated visages
+and from the terrible condition of their boots. The rich had reached
+the point after which it was inconvenient to them to pay any more. The
+middle classes were spending the greater part of their time in devising
+methods by which the exorbitant and intempestive demands of the
+collectors could be either evaded or, more rarely, complied with. In a
+word, a new and juster system of taxation was an imperative need, and
+the Emperor, who had just ascended the throne at the age of eighteen,
+and whom a sort of greenness had preserved from the iniquities of this
+world, was determined to effect the great reform.
+
+With the advice of his Ministers (all of whom had had considerable
+experience in the handling of money), the Emperor at last determined
+that each man and woman should pay to the State one-tenth and no more
+of the wealth which he or she produced; those who produced nothing it
+was but common justice and reason to exempt, and the effect of this
+tardy act of justice upon the very rich was observed in the sudden
+increase of the death-rate from all those diseases that are the
+peculiar product of luxury and evil living. Paupers also, the
+unemployed, cripples, imbeciles, deaf mutes, and the clergy escaped
+under this beneficent and equable statute, and we may sum up the whole
+policy by saying that never was a law acclaimed with so much happy
+bewilderment nor subject to less expressed criticism than this.
+
+It was, moreover, easy to estimate in this new fashion the total
+revenue of the State, since its produce had been accurately set down by
+statisticians of the utmost eminence, and one of these diverse
+documents had been taken for the basis of the new fiscal regime.
+
+In practice also the collection was easy. Overseers would attend the
+harvest with large carts, prong the tenth turnip, hoick up the tenth
+sheaf of wheat, bucket out the tenth gallon of ale, and so forth. In
+the markets every tenth animal was removed by Imperial officers, every
+tenth newspaper was impounded as it left the press, and every tenth
+drink about to be consumed in the hostelries of the Empire was, after a
+simulacrum of proffering it, suddenly removed by the waiter and poured
+into a receptacle, the keys of which were very jealously guarded.
+
+It was the same with the liberal professions: of the fee received by a
+barrister in the Criminal Courts a tenth was regularly demanded at the
+door when the verdict had been given and the prisoner whom he had
+defended passed out to execution. The tenth knock-out in the prize ring
+received by the professional pugilist was followed by the immediate
+sequestration of his fee for that particular encounter, and the tenth
+aria vibrating from the lips of a prima donna was either compounded for
+at a certain rate or taken in kind by the official who attended at
+every performance of grand opera.
+
+One form of wealth alone puzzled the beneficent monarch and his
+Napoleonic advisers, and this was the production (for it then existed)
+of literary matter.
+
+At first this seemed as simple to tax as any one of the other numerous
+activities upon which the Emperor’s loyal and loving subjects were
+engaged. A brief examination of the customs of the trade, conducted by
+an army of officials who penetrated into the very dens and attics in
+which Letters are evolved, reported that the method of payment was by
+the measurement of a number of words.
+
+“It is, your Majesty,” wrote the permanent official of the department
+in his minute, “the practice of those who charitably employ this sort
+of person to pay them in classes by the thousand words; thus one man
+gets one sequin a thousand, another two byzants, a third as much as a
+ducat, while some who have singularly attracted the notice of the
+public can command ten, twenty, nay forty scutcheons, and in some very
+exceptional cases a thousand words command one of those beautiful
+pieces of stiff paper which your Majesty in his bountiful provision
+tenders to his dutiful subjects for acceptance as metal under diverse
+penalties. The just taxation of these fellows can therefore be easily
+achieved if your Majesty, in the exercise of his almost superhuman
+wisdom, will but add a schedule to the Finance Act in which there shall
+be set down fifteen or twenty classes of writers, with their price per
+thousand words, and a compulsory registration of each class, enforced
+by the rude hand of the police.”
+
+The Emperor of Monomotopa immediately nominated a Royal Commission
+(unpaid), among whose sons, nephews, and private friends the salaried
+posts connected with the work were distributed. This Commission
+reported by a majority of one ere two years had elapsed. The schedule
+was designed, and such _littérateurs_ as had not in the interval fled
+the country were registered, while a further enactment strictly
+forbidding their employers to make payment upon any other system
+completed the scheme.
+
+But, alas! so full of low cunning and dirty dodges is this kind of man
+(I mean what we call authors) that very soon after the promulgation of
+the new law a marked deterioration in the quality of Monomotopan
+letters was apparent upon every side!
+
+The citizen opening his morning paper would be astonished to find the
+leading article consist of nothing more original than a portion of the
+sacred Scriptures. A novel bought to ease the tedium of a journey would
+consist of long catalogues for the most part, and when it came to
+descriptions of scenery would fall into the most minute and detailed
+category of every conceivable feature of the landscape. Some even took
+advantage of the new regulation so far as to repeat one single word an
+interminable number of times, while it was remarked with shame by the
+Ministers of Religion that the morals of their literary friends
+permitted them only to use words of one syllable, and those of the
+shortest kind. And this they said was the only true and original
+Monomotopan dialect.
+
+Such was the public inconvenience that next year a sharper and much
+more drastic law was passed, by which it was laid down that every
+literary composition should make sense within the meaning of the Act,
+and should be original so far as the reading of the judge appointed for
+the trial of the case extended. But though after the first few
+executions this law was generally observed, the nasty fellows affected
+by it managed to evade it in spirit, for by the use of obscure terms,
+of words drawn from dead languages, and of bold metaphor transferred
+from one art to another, they would deliberately invite prosecution,
+and then in the witness-box make fools of those plain men, the judge
+and jury, by showing that this apparently meaningless claptrap could,
+with sufficient ingenuity, be made to yield some sort of sense, and
+during this period no art critic was put to death.
+
+Driven to desperation, the Emperor changed the whole basis of the
+Remuneration of Literary Labour, and ordered that it should be by the
+length of the prose or poetry measured in inches.
+
+This reform, however, did but add to the confusion, for while the men
+of the pen wrote their works entirely in short dialogue, asterisks, and
+blanks, the publishers, who were now thoroughly organized, printed the
+same in smaller and smaller type, in order to avoid the consequences of
+the law.
+
+At this last piece of insolence the Emperor’s mind was quickly decided.
+Arresting one night not only all those who had ever written, but all
+those who had even boasted of letters, or who were so much as suspected
+by their relatives of secretly indulging in them, he turned the whole
+two million into a large but enclosed area, and (desiring to kill two
+birds with one stone) offered the ensuing spectacle as an amusement to
+the more sober and respectable sections of the community.
+
+It is well known that the profession of letters breeds in its followers
+an undying hatred of each against his fellows. The public were
+therefore entertained for a whole day with the pleasing sight of a
+violent but quite disordered battle, in which each of the wretched
+prisoners seemed animated by no desire but the destruction of as many
+as possible of his hated rivals, until at last every soul of these
+detestable creatures had left its puny body and the State was rid of
+all.
+
+A law which carried to the universities the rule of the primary
+schools—to wit, that men should be taught to read but not to
+write—completed the good work. And there was peace.
+
+
+
+
+The Eye-Openers
+
+
+Without any doubt whatsoever, the one characteristic of the towns is
+the lack of reality in the impressions of the many: now we live in
+towns: and posterity will be astounded at us! It isn’t only that we get
+our impressions for the most part as imaginary pictures called up by
+printer’s ink—that would be bad enough; but by some curious perversion
+of the modern mind, printer’s ink ends by actually preventing one from
+seeing things that are there; and sometimes, when one says to another
+who has not travelled, “Travel!” one wonders whether, after all, if he
+does travel, he will see the things before his eyes? If he does, he
+will find a new world; and there is more to be discovered in this
+fashion to-day than ever there was.
+
+I have sometimes wished that every Anglo-Saxon who from these shores
+has sailed and seen for the first time the other Anglo-Saxons in New
+York or Melbourne, would write in quite a short letter what he really
+felt. Ninety-nine times out of a hundred men only write what they have
+read before they started, just as Rousseau in an eighteenth-century
+village believed that every English yokel could vote and that his vote
+conveyed a high initiative, making and unmaking the policy of the
+State; or just as people, hearing that the birth-rate of France is low,
+travel in that country and say they can see no children—though they
+would hardly say it about Sussex or Cumberland where the birth-rate is
+lower still.
+
+What travel does in the way of pleasure (the providing of new and fresh
+sensations, and the expansion of experience), that it ought to do in
+the way of knowledge. It ought to and it does, with the wise, provide a
+complete course of unlearning the wretched tags with which the sham
+culture of our great towns has filled us. For instance, of Barbary—the
+lions do not live in deserts; they live in woods. The peasants of
+Barbary are not Semitic in appearance or in character; Barbary is full
+to the eye, not of Arab and Oriental buildings—they are not
+striking—but of great Roman monuments: they are altogether the most
+important things in the place. Barbary is not hot, as a whole: most of
+Barbary is extremely cold between November and March. The inhabitants
+of Barbary do not like a wild life, they are extremely fond of what
+civilization can give them, such as _crème de menthe_, rifles, good
+waterworks, maps, and railways: only they would like to have these
+things without the bother of strict laws and of the police, and so
+forth. Travel in Barbary with seeing eyes and you find out all this new
+truth.
+
+Now it took the French forty years and more before each of these plain
+facts (and I have only cited half a dozen out of as many hundred) got
+into their letters and their print: they have not yet got into the
+letters and the print of other nations. But an honest man travelling in
+Barbary on his own account would pick up every one of these truths in
+two or three days, except the one about the lions; to pick up that
+truth you must go to the very edge of the country, for the lion is a
+shy beast and withdraws from men.
+
+The wise man who really wants to see things as they are and to
+understand them, does not say: “Here I am on the burning soil of
+Africa.” He says: “Here I am stuck in a snowdrift and the train twelve
+hours late”—as it was (with me in it) near Sétif in January, 1905. He
+does not say as he looks on the peasant at his plough outside Batna:
+“Observe yon Semite!” He says: “That man’s face is exactly like the
+face of a dark Sussex peasant, only a little leaner.” He does not say:
+“See those wild sons of the desert! How they must hate the new
+artificial world around them!” Contrariwise, he says: “See those four
+Mohammedans playing cards with a French pack of cards and drinking
+liqueurs in the café! See, they have ordered more liqueurs!” He does
+not say: “How strange and terrible a thing the railway must be to
+them!” He says: “I wish I was rich enough to travel first, for the
+natives pouring in and out of this third-class carriage, jabbering like
+monkeys, and treading on my feet, disturb my tranquillity. Some
+hundreds must have got in and out during the last fifty miles!”
+
+In other words, the wise man has permitted eye-openers to rain upon him
+their full, beneficent, and sacramental influence. And if a man in
+travelling will always maintain his mind ready for what he really sees
+and hears, he will become a whole nest of Columbuses discovering a
+perfectly interminable series of new worlds.
+
+A man can only talk of what he himself knows. Let me give further
+examples. I had always heard until I visited the Pyrenees how French
+civilization (especially in the matter of roads, motors, and things
+like that) went up to the “Spanish” frontier and then stopped dead. It
+doesn’t. The change is at the Aragonese frontier. On the Basque third
+of the frontier the people are just as active and fond of wealth, and
+of scraping of stone and of cleanliness, and of drawing straight lines,
+to the north as to the south of it. They are all one people, as
+industrious, as thrifty, and as prosperous as the Scots. So are the
+Catalans one people, and you get much the same sort of advantages and
+disadvantages (apart from the effect of government) with the Catalans
+to the north as with the Catalans to the south of the border.
+
+So with religion. I had thought to find the Spanish churches crowded. I
+found just the contrary. It was the French churches that were crowded,
+not the Spanish; and the difference between the truth—what one really
+sees and hears—and the printed legend happens to be very subtly
+illustrated in this case of religion. The French have inherited (and
+are by this time used to, and have, perhaps grown fond of) a big
+religious debate. Those who side with the national religion and
+tradition emphasize their opinion in every possible way—so do their
+opponents. You pick up two newspapers from Toulouse, for instance, and
+it is quite on the cards that the leading article of each will be a
+disquisition upon the philosophy of religion, the one, the “Depêche” of
+Toulouse, militantly, and often solently atheist; the other as
+militantly Catholic.
+
+You don’t get that in Pamplona, and you don’t get it in Saragossa. What
+you get there is a profound dislike of being interfered with, ancient
+and lazy customs, wealth retained by the chapters, the monasteries, and
+the colleges, and with all this a curious, all-pervading indifference.
+
+One might end this little train of thought by considering a converse
+test of what the eye-opener is in travel; and that test is to talk to
+foreigners when they first come to England and see how they tend to
+discover in England what they have read of at home instead of what they
+really see. There have been very few fogs in London of late, but your
+foreigner nearly always finds London foggy. Kent does not show along
+its main railway line the evidence of agricultural depression: it is
+like a garden. Yet, in a very careful and thorough French book just
+published by a French traveller, his bird’s-eye view of the country as
+he went through Kent just after landing would make you think the place
+a desert; he seems to have thought the hedges a sign of agricultural
+decay. The same foreigner will discover a plebeian character in the
+Commons and an aristocratic one in the House of Lords, though he shall
+have heard but four speeches in each, and though every one of the eight
+speeches shall have been delivered by members of one family group
+closely intermarried, wealthy, titled, and perhaps (who knows?) of some
+lineage as well.
+
+The moral is that one should tell the truth to oneself, and look out
+for it outside one. It is quite as novel and as entertaining as the
+discovery of the North Pole—or, in case that has come off (as some
+believe), the discovery of the South Pole.
+
+
+
+
+The Public
+
+
+I notice a very curious thing in the actions particularly of business
+men to-day, and of other men also, which is the projection outward from
+their own inward minds of something which is called “The Public”—and
+which is not there.
+
+I do not mean that a business man is wrong when he says that “the
+public will demand” such and such an article, and on producing the
+article finds it sells widely; he is obviously and demonstrably right
+in his use of the word “public” in such a connexion. Nor is a man wrong
+or subject to illusion when he says, “The public have taken to
+cinematograph shows,” or “The public were greatly moved when the Hull
+fishermen were shot at by the Russian fleet in the North Sea.” What I
+mean is “The Public” as an excuse or scapegoat; the Public as a menace;
+the Public as a butt. That Public simply does not exist.
+
+For instance, the publisher will say, as though he were talking of some
+monster, “The Public will not buy Jinks’s work. It is first-class work,
+so it is too good for the Public.” He is quite right in his statement
+of fact. Of the very small proportion of our people who read only a
+fraction buy books, and of the fraction that buy books very few indeed
+buy Jinks’s. Jinks has a very pleasant up-and-down style. He loves to
+use funny words dragged from the tomb, and he has delicate little
+emotions. Yet hardly anybody will buy him—so the publisher is quite
+right in one sense when he says, “The Public” won’t buy Jinks. But
+where he is quite wrong and suffering from a gross illusion is in the
+motive and the manner of his saying it. He talks of “The Public” as
+something gravely to blame and yet irredeemably stupid. He talks of it
+as something quite external to himself, almost as something which he
+has never personally come across. He talks of it as though it were a
+Mammoth or an Eskimo. Now, if that publisher would wander for a moment
+into the world of realities he would perceive his illusion. Modern men
+do not like realities, and do not usually know the way to come in
+contact with them. I will tell the publisher how to do so in this case.
+
+Let him consider what books he buys himself, what books his wife buys;
+what books his eldest son, his grandmother, his Aunt Jane, his old
+father, his butler (if he runs to one), his most intimate friend, and
+his curate buy. He will find that not one of these people buys Jinks.
+Most of them will talk Jinks, and if Jinks writes a play, however dull,
+they will probably go and see it once; but they draw the line at buying
+Jinks’s books—and I don’t blame them.
+
+The moral is very simple. You yourselves are “The Public,” and if you
+will watch your own habits you will find that the economic explanation
+of a hundred things becomes quite clear.
+
+I have seen the same thing in the offices of a newspaper. Some simple
+truth of commanding interest to this country, involving no attack upon
+any rich man, and therefore not dangerous under our laws, comes up for
+printing. It is discussed in the editor’s room. The editor says, “Yes,
+of course, we know it is true, and of course it is important, but the
+Public would not stand it.”
+
+I remember one newspaper office of my youth in which the Public was
+visualized as a long file of people streaming into a Wesleyan chapel,
+and another in which the Public was supposed to be made up without
+exception of retired officers and maiden ladies, every one of whom was
+a communicant of the English Established Church, every one of good
+birth, and yet every one devoid of culture.
+
+Without the least doubt each of these absurd symbols haunted the brain
+of each of the editors in question. The editor of the first paper would
+print at wearisome length accounts of obscure Catholic clerical
+scandals on the Continent, and would sweat with alarm if his
+sub-editors had admitted a telegram concerning the trial of some
+fraudulent Protestant missionary or other in China.
+
+Meanwhile his rather dull paper was being bought by you and me, and
+bank clerks and foreign tourists, and doctors, and publicans, and
+brokers, Catholics, Protestants, atheists, “peculiar people,” and every
+kind of man for many reasons—because it had the best social statistics,
+because it had a very good dramatic critic, because they had got into
+the habit and couldn’t stop, because it came nearest to hand on the
+bookstall. Of a hundred readers, ninety-nine skipped the clerical
+scandal and either chuckled over the fraudulent missionary or were
+bored by him and went on to the gambling news from the Stock Exchange.
+But the type for whom all that paper was produced, the menacing god or
+demon who was supposed to forbid publication of certain news in it, did
+not exist.
+
+So it was with the second paper, but with this difference, that the
+editor was right about the social position of those who read his sheet,
+but quite wrong about the opinions and emotions of people in that
+social position.
+
+It was all the more astonishing from the fact that the editor was born
+in that very class himself and perpetually mixed with it. No one
+perhaps read “The Stodge” (for under this device would I veil the true
+name of the organ) more carefully than those retired officers of either
+service who are to be found in what are called our “residential” towns.
+The editor was himself the son of a colonel of guns who had settled
+down in a Midland watering-place. He ought to have known that world,
+and he did know that world, but he kept his illusion of his Public
+quite apart from his experience of realities.
+
+Your retired officer (to take his particular section of this particular
+paper’s audience) is nearly always a man with a hobby, and usually a
+good scientific or literary hobby at that. He writes many of our best
+books demanding research. He takes an active part in public work which
+requires statistical study. He is always a travelled man, and nearly
+always a well-read man. The broadest and the most complete questioning
+and turning and returning of the most fundamental subjects—religion,
+foreign policy, and domestic economics—are quite familiar to him. But
+the editor was not selecting news for that real man; he was selecting
+news for an imaginary retired officer of inconceivable stupidity and
+ignorance, redeemed by a childlike simplicity. If a book came in, for
+instance, on biology, and there was a chance of having it reviewed by
+one of the first biologists of the day, he would say: “Oh, our Public
+won’t stand evolution,” and he would trot out his imaginary retired
+officer as though he were a mule.
+
+Artists, by which I mean painters, and more especially art critics, sin
+in this respect. They say: “The public wants a picture to tell a
+story,” and they say it with a sneer. Well, the public does want a
+picture to tell a story, because you and I want a picture to tell a
+story. Sorry. But so it is. The art critic himself wants it to tell a
+story, and so does the artist. Each would rather die than admit it, but
+if you set either walking, with no one to watch him, down a row of
+pictures you would see him looking at one picture after another with
+that expression of interest which only comes on a human face when it is
+following a human relation. A mere splash of colour would bore him;
+still more a mere medley of black and white. The story may have a very
+simple plot; it may be no more than an old woman sitting on a chair, or
+a landscape, but a picture, if a man can look at it all, tells a story
+right enough. It must interest men, and the less of a story it tells
+the less it will interest men. A good landscape tells so vivid a story
+that children (who are unspoilt) actually transfer themselves into such
+a landscape, walk about in it, and have adventures in it.
+
+They make another complaint against the public, that it desires
+painting to be lifelike. Of course it does! The statement is accurate,
+but the complaint is based on an illusion. It is you and I and all the
+world that want painting to imitate its object. There is a wonderful
+picture in the Glasgow Art Gallery, painted by someone a long time ago,
+in which a man is represented in a steel cuirass with a fur tippet over
+it, and the whole point of that picture is that the fur looks like fur
+and the steel looks like steel. I never met a critic yet who was so
+bold as to say that picture was a bad picture. It is one of the best
+pictures in the world; but its whole point is the liveliness of the
+steel and of the fur.
+
+Finally, there is one proper test to prove that all this jargon about
+“The Public” is nonsense, which is that it is altogether modern. Who
+quarrelled with the Public in the old days when men lived a healthy
+corporate life, and painted, wrote, or sang for the applause of their
+fellows?
+
+If you still suffer from the illusion after reading these magisterial
+lines of mine, why, there is a drastic way to cure yourself, which is
+to go for a soldier; take the shilling and live in a barracks for a
+year; then buy yourself out. You will never despise the public again.
+And perhaps a better way still is to go round the Horn before the mast.
+But take care that your friends shall send you enough money to
+Valparaiso for your return journey to be made in some comfort; I would
+not wish my worst enemy to go back the way he came.
+
+
+
+
+On Entries
+
+
+I am always planning in my mind new kinds of guide books. Or, rather,
+new features in guide books.
+
+One such new feature which I am sure would be very useful would be an
+indication to the traveller of how he should approach a place.
+
+I would first presuppose him quite free and able to come by rail or by
+water or by road or on foot across the fields, and then I would
+describe how the many places I have seen stand quite differently in the
+mind according to the way in which one approaches them.
+
+The value of travel, to the eye at least, lies in its presentation of
+clear and permanent impressions, and these I think (though some would
+quarrel with me for saying it) are usually instantaneous. It is the
+first sharp vision of an unknown town, the first immediate vision of a
+range of hills, that remains for ever and is fruitful of joy within the
+mind, or, at least, that is one and perhaps the chief of the fruits of
+travel.
+
+I remember once, for instance, waking from a dead sleep in a train (for
+I was very tired) and finding it to be evening. What woke me was the
+sudden stopping of the train. It was in Italy. A man in the carriage
+said to me that there was some sort of accident and that we should be
+waiting a while. The people got out and walked about by the side of the
+track. I also got out of the carriage and took the air, and when I so
+stepped out into the cool of that summer evening I was amazed at the
+loneliness and tragedy of the place.
+
+There were no houses about me that I could see save one little place
+built for the railway men. There was no cultivation either.
+
+Close before me began a sort of swamp with reeds which hardly moved to
+the air, and this gradually merged into a sheet of water above and
+beyond which were hills, barren and not very high, which took the last
+of the daylight, for they looked both southward and to the west. The
+more I watched the extraordinary and absolute scene the less I heard of
+the low voices about me, and indeed a sort of positive silence seemed
+to clothe the darkening landscape. It was full of something quite gone
+down, and one had the impression that it would never be disturbed.
+
+As the light lessened, the hills darkened, the sky took on one broad
+and tender colour, the sheet of water gleamed quite white, and the
+reeds stood up like solid shadows against it. I wish I could express in
+words the impression of recollection and of savage mourning which all
+that landscape imposed, but from that impression I was recalled and
+startled by the guard, who came along telling us that things were
+righted and that the train would start again; soon we were in our
+places and the rapid movement isolated for me the memory of a
+singularly vivid scene. I thought the place must have a name, and I
+asked a neighbour in the carriage what it was called; he told me it was
+called Lake Trasimene.
+
+Now I do not say that this tragic site is to be visited thus. It was
+but an accident, though an accident for which I am most grateful to my
+fate. But what I have said here illustrates my meaning that the manner
+of one’s approach to any place in travel makes all the difference.
+
+Thus one may note how very different is Europe seen from the water than
+seen from any other opportunity for travel. So many of the great
+cathedrals were built to dominate men who should watch them from the
+wharves of the mediaeval towns, but I think it is almost a rule if you
+have leisure and can take your choice to choose this kind of entry to
+them. Amiens is quite a different thing seen from the river below it to
+the north and east from what it is seen by a gradual approach along the
+street of a modern town. The roofs climb up at it, and it stands
+enthroned. So Chartres seen from the little Eure; but the Eure is so
+small a river that he would be a bold man who would travel up it all
+this way. Nevertheless it is a good piece of travel, and anyone who
+will undertake it will see Louviers and will pass Anet, where the
+greatest work of the Renaissance once stood, and will go through lonely
+but rich pastures until at last he gets to Chartres by the right gate.
+Thence he will see something astonishing for so flat a region as the
+Beauce. The great church seems mountainous upon a mountain. Its apse
+completes the unclimbable steepness of the hill and its buttresses
+follow the lines of the fall of it. But if you do not come in by the
+river, at least come in by the Orleans road. I suppose that nine people
+out of ten, even to-day when the roads are in proper use again, come
+into Chartres by that northern railway entry, which is for all the
+world like coming into a great house by a big, neglected backyard.
+
+Then if ever you have business that takes you to Bayonne, come in by
+river and from the sea, and how well you will understand the little
+town and its lovely northern Gothic!
+
+Some of the great churches all the world knows must be seen from the
+water, and most of the world so sees them. Ely is one, Cologne is
+another, but how many people have looked right up at Durham as at a
+cliff from that gorge below, or how many have seen the height of Albi
+from the Tarn?
+
+As for famous cities with their walls, there is no doubt that a man
+should approach them by the chief high road, which once linked them
+with their capital, or with their nearest port, or with Rome—and that
+although this kind of entry is nowadays often marred by ugly suburbs.
+You will get much your finest sight of Segovia as you come in by the
+road from the Guadarama and from Madrid. It is from that point that you
+were meant to see the town, and you will get much your best grip on
+Carcassonne, old Carcassonne, if you come in by the road from Toulouse
+at morning as you were meant to come, and so Coucy should be approached
+by that royal road from Soissons and from the south, while as for Laon
+(the most famous of the hill towns), come to it from the east, for it
+looks eastward, and its lords were Eastern lords.
+
+Ranges of hills, I think, are never best first seen from railways.
+Indeed, I can remember no great sight of hills so seen, not even the
+Alps. A railway must of necessity follow the floor of the valley and
+tunnel and creep round the shoulders of the bulwarks. There is perhaps
+one exception to this rule, which is the sight of the Pyrenees from the
+train as one comes into Tarbes. It is a wise thing if you are visiting
+those hills to come into Tarbes by night and sleep there, and then next
+morning the train upon its way to Pau unfolds you all the wall of the
+mountains. But this is an accident. It is because the railway runs upon
+a sort of high platform that you see the mountains so. With all other
+hills that I remember it is best to have them burst suddenly upon you
+from the top of some pass lifted high above the level and coming, let
+us say, to a height half their own. Certainly the Bernese Oberland is
+more wonderful caught in one moment from the Jura than introduced in
+any other way, and the snows on Atlas over the desert seem like part of
+the sky when they come upon one after climbing the red rocks of the
+high plateaux and you see them shining over the salt marshes. The
+Vosges you cannot thus see from a half-height; there is no platform,
+and that is perhaps why the Vosges have not impressed travellers as
+they should. But you can so watch the grand chain of old volcanoes
+which are the rampart of Auvergne. You can stand upon the high wooden
+ridge of Foreze and see them take the morning across the mists and the
+flat of the Limagne, where the Gauls fought Caesar. Further south from
+the high table of the Velay you can see the steep backward escarpment
+of the Cevennes, inky blue, desperately blue, blue like nothing else on
+earth except the mountains in those painters of North Italy, of the
+parts north and east of Venice, the name of whose school escapes me—or,
+rather, I never knew it.
+
+Now, as for towns that live in a hollow, it is great fun to come upon
+them from above. They are not used to being thus taken at a
+disadvantage and they are both surprised and surprising. There are many
+towns in holes and trenches of Europe which you can thus play “peep-bo”
+with if you will come at them walking. By train they will mean nothing
+to you. You will probably come upon them out of a long, shrieking
+tunnel, and by the high road they mean little more, for the high road
+will follow the vale. But if you come upon them from over their
+guardian cliffs and scars you catch them unawares, and this is a good
+way of approaching them, for you master them, as it were, and spy them
+out before you enter in. You can act thus with Grenoble and with many a
+town on the Meuse, and particularly with Aubusson, which lies in the
+depths of so dreadful a trench that I could wonder how man ever dreamt
+of living and building there.
+
+The most difficult of all places on which to advise, I think, would be
+the very great cities, the capitals. They seem to have to-day no noble
+entries and no proper approach. Perhaps we shall only deal with them
+justly when we can circle down to them through the air and see their
+vast activity splashed over the plain. Anyhow, there is no proper way
+of entering them now that I know of. Berlin is not worth entering at
+all. Rome (a man told me once) could be entered by some particular road
+over the Janiculum, I think—which also, if I remember right, was the
+way that Shelley came—but I despair of Paris, and certainly of London.
+I cannot even recall an entry for Brussels, though Brussels is a
+monumental city with great rewards for those who love the combination
+of building and hills.
+
+Perhaps, after all, the happiest entries of all and the most easy are
+those of our many market towns, small and not swollen in Britain and in
+Northern Gaul and in the Netherlands and in the Valley of the Rhine.
+These hardly ever fail us, and we come upon them in our travels as they
+desire that we should come, and we know them properly as things should
+properly be known—that is, from the beginning.
+
+
+
+
+Companions of Travel
+
+
+I write of travelling companions in general, and not in particular,
+making of them a composite photograph, as it were, and finding what
+they have in common and what is their type; and in the first place I
+find them to be chance men. For there are some people who cannot travel
+without a set companion who goes with them from Charing Cross all over
+the world and back to Charing Cross again. And there is a pathos in
+this: as Balzac said of marriage, “What a commentary on human life,
+that human beings must associate to endure it.” So it is with many who
+cannot endure to travel alone: and some will positively advertise for
+another to go with them.
+
+In a glade of the Sierra Nevada, which, for awful and, as it were,
+permanent beauty seemed not to be of this world, I came upon a man
+slowly driving along the trail a ramshackle cart, in which were a few
+chairs and tables and bedding. He had a long grey beard and wild eyes;
+he was old, and very small like a gnome, but he had not the gnome’s
+good-humour. I asked him where he was going, and I slowed down, so as
+to keep pace with his ridiculous horse. For some time he would not
+answer me, and then he said, “Out of this.” He added, “I am tired of
+it.” And when I asked him, “Of what?” his only answer was an
+old-fashioned oath. But from further complaints which he made I
+gathered that what he was tired of was clearing forests, digging
+ground, paying debts, and in general living upon this unhappy earth. He
+did not like me very much, and though I would willingly have learned
+more, he would tell me nothing further, so when we got to a place where
+there was a little stream I went on and left him.
+
+I have never forgotten the sadness of this man. Where he was going, and
+what he expected to do, or what opportunities he had, I have never
+understood. Though some years after, in quite another place—namely,
+Steyning, in Sussex—I came upon just such another, whose quarrel was
+with the English climate, the rich and the poor, and the whole
+constitution of God’s earth. These are the advantages of travel, that
+one meets so many men whom one would otherwise never meet, and that one
+feeds as it were upon the complexity of mankind.
+
+Thus in a village called Encamps, in the depths of Andorra, where no
+man has ever killed another, I found a man with a blue face, who was a
+fossil, the kind of man you would never find in the swelling life of
+Western Europe. He was emancipated, he had studied in Perpignan, over
+and beyond the great hills. He could not see why he should pay taxes to
+support a priest. “The priests” he assured me, “say the most ridiculous
+things. They narrate the most impossible fables. They affirm what
+cannot possibly be true. All that they say is in opposition to science.
+If I am ill, can a priest cure me? No. Can a priest tell me how to
+build, or how to light my house? He is unable to do so. He is a useless
+and a lying mouth, why should I feed him?”
+
+I questioned this man very closely, and discovered that in his view the
+world slowly changed from worse to better, and to accelerate this
+process enlightenment alone was needed. “But what do these brutes,” he
+said, alluding to his fellow-countrymen, “know of enlightenment? They
+do not even make roads, because the priests forbid them.”
+
+I could write at length upon this man. He was not a Sceptic as you may
+imagine, nor had he adopted the Lucretian form of Epicureanism. Not a
+bit of it. He was a hearty Atheist, with Positivist leanings. I further
+found that he had married a woman older, wealthier, and if possible
+uglier than himself. She kept the inn, and was very kind to him. His
+life would have been quite happy had he not been tortured by the
+monstrous superstitions of others.
+
+Then, again, in the town of Marseilles, only two years ago, I met a man
+who looked well fed, and had a stalwart, square French face, and whose
+politico-economic ideal, though it was not mine, greatly moved me. It
+was just past midnight, and I was throwing little stones into the old
+Greek harbour, the stench and the glory of which are nearly three
+thousand years old; I was to be off at dawn upon a tramp steamer, and I
+had so determined to pass the few hours of darkness.
+
+I was throwing pebbles into the water, I say, and thinking about
+Ulysses, when this man came slouching up, with his hands in the pockets
+of his enormous corduroy trousers, and, looking at me with some
+contempt from above (for he was standing, I was sitting), he began to
+converse with me. We talked first of ships, then of heat and cold, and
+so on to wealth and poverty; and thus it was I came upon his views,
+which were that there should be a sort of break up, and houses ought to
+be burned, and things smashed, and people killed; and over and above
+this, it should be made plain that no one had a right to govern: not
+the people, because they were always being bamboozled; obviously not
+the rich; least of all, the politicians, to whom he justly applied the
+most derogatory epithets. He waved his arm out in the darkness at the
+Phoceans, at the half-million of Marseilles, and said, “All that should
+disappear.” The constructive side of his politico-economic scheme was
+negative. He was a practical man. None of your fine theories for him.
+One step at a time. Let there be a Chambardement—that is, a noisy
+collapse, and he would think about what to do afterwards.
+
+His was not the narrow, deductive mind. He was objective and concrete.
+Believe me or not, he was paid an excellent wage by the municipality to
+prevent people like me, who sit up at night, from doing mischief in the
+harbour. When I had come to an end of his politico-economic scheme—the
+main lines of which were so clear and simple that a child could
+understand them—we fell to talking of the tides, and I told him that in
+my country the sea went up and down. He was no rustic, and would have
+no such commonplace truths. He was well acquainted with the Phenomenon
+of the Tides; it was due to the combined attraction of the sun and of
+the moon. But when I told him I knew places where the tides fell thirty
+or forty feet, we would have had a violent quarrel had I not prudently
+admitted that that was romantic exaggeration, and that five or six was
+the most that one ever saw it move. I avoided the quarrel, but the
+little incident broke up our friendship, and he shuffled away. He did
+not like having his leg pulled.
+
+There are many others I remember. Those I have written about elsewhere
+I am ashamed to recall, as the man at Jedburgh, who first expounded to
+me how one knew all about the fate of the individual soul, and then
+objected to personal questions about his own; the German officer man at
+Aix-la-Chapelle, who had hair the colour of tow, and gave me minute
+details of the method by which England was to be destroyed; a man I met
+upon the Appian Way, who told the most abominable lies; and another man
+who met me outside Oxford station during the Vac. and offered to show
+me the sights of the town for a consideration, which he did, but I
+would not pay him because he was inaccurate, as I easily proved by a
+few searching questions upon the exact site of Bocardo (of which he had
+never heard), and the negative evidence against a Roman origin for the
+site of the city. Moreover, he said that Trinity was St. John’s, which
+was rubbish.
+
+Then there was another man who travelled with me from Birmingham,
+pressed certain tracts upon me, and wanted to charge me sixpence each
+at Paddington. But if I were to speak of even these few I should
+exceed.
+
+
+
+
+On the Sources of Rivers
+
+
+There are certain customs in man the permanence of which gives infinite
+pleasure. When the mood of the schools is against them these customs
+lie in wait beneath the floors of society, but they never die, and when
+a decay in pedantry or in despotism or in any other evil and inhuman
+influence permits them to reappear they reappear.
+
+One of these customs is the religious attachment of man to isolated
+high places, peaks, and single striking hills. On these he must build
+shrines, and though he is a little furtive about it nowadays, yet the
+instinct is there, strong as ever. I have not often come to the top of
+a high hill with another man but I have seen him put a few stones
+together when he got there, or, if he had not the moral courage so to
+satisfy his soul, he would never fail on such an occasion to say
+something ritual and quasi-religious, even if it were only about the
+view; and another instinct of the same sort is the worship of the
+sources of rivers.
+
+The Iconoclast and the people whose pride it is that their senses are
+dead will see in a river nothing more than so much moisture gathered in
+a narrow place and falling as the mystery of gravitation inclines it.
+Their mood is the mood of that gentleman who despaired and wrote:
+
+A cloud’s a lot of vapour,
+ The sky’s a lot of air,
+And the sea’s a lot of water
+ That happens to be there.
+
+
+You cannot get further down than that. When you have got as far down as
+that all is over. Luckily God still keeps his mysteries going for you,
+and you can’t get rid, even in that mood, of the certitude that you
+yourself exist and that things outside of you are outside of you. But
+when you get into that modern mood you do lose the personality of
+everything else, and you forget the sanctity of river heads.
+
+You have lost a great deal when you have forgotten that, and it behoves
+you to recover what you have lost as quickly as possible, which is to
+be done in this way: Visit the source of some famous stream and think
+about it. There was a Scotchman once who discovered the sources of the
+Nile, to the lasting advantage of mankind and the permanent glory of
+his native land. He thought the source of the Nile looked rather like
+the sources of the Till or the Tweed or some such river of Thule. He
+has been ridiculed for saying this, but he was mystically very right.
+The source of the greatest of rivers, since it was sacred to him,
+reminded him of the sacred things of his home.
+
+When I consider the sources of rivers which I have seen, there is not
+one, I think, which I do not remember to have had about it an influence
+of awe. Not only because one could in imaginings see the kingdoms of
+the cities which it was to visit and the way in which it would bind
+them all together in one province and one story, but also simply
+because it was an origin.
+
+The sources of the Rhone are famous: the Rhone comes out of a glacier
+through a sort of ice cave, and if it were not for an enormous hotel
+quite four-square it would be as lonely a place as there is in Europe,
+and as remarkable a beginning for a great river as could anywhere be
+found. Nor, when you come to think of it, does any European river have
+such varied fortunes as the Rhone. It feeds such different religions
+and looks on such diverse landscapes. It makes Geneva and it makes
+Avignon; it changes in colour and in the nature of its going as it
+goes. It sees new products appearing continually on its journey until
+it comes to olives, and it flows past the beginning of human cities,
+when it reflects the huddle of old Arles.
+
+The sources of the Garonne are well known. The Garonne rises by itself
+in a valley from which there is no issue, like the fabled valleys shut
+in by hills on every side. And if it were anything but the Garonne it
+would not be able to escape: it would lie imprisoned there for ever.
+Being the Garonne it tunnels a way for itself right under the High
+Pyrenees and comes out again on the French side. There are some that
+doubt this, but then there are people who would doubt anything.
+
+The sources of the River Arun are not so famous as these two last, and
+it is a good thing, for they are to be found in one of the loneliest
+places within an hour of London that any man can imagine, and if you
+were put down there upon a windy day you would think yourself upon the
+moors. There is nothing whatsoever near you at the beginnings of the
+little sacred stream.
+
+Thames had a source once which was very famous. The water came out
+plainly at a fountain under a bleak wood just west of the Fosse Way,
+under which it ran by a culvert, a culvert at least as old as the
+Romans. But when about a hundred years ago people began to improve the
+world in those parts, they put up a pumping station and they pumped
+Thames dry—since which time its gods have deserted the river.
+
+The sources of the Ribble are in a lonely place up in a corner of the
+hills where everything has strange shapes and where the rocks make one
+think of trolls. The great frozen Whernside stands up above it, and
+Ingleborough Hill, which is like no other hill in England, but like the
+flat-topped Mesas which you have in America, or (as those who have
+visited it tell me) like the flat hills of South Africa; and a little
+way off on the other side is Pen-y-ghent, or words to that effect. The
+little River Ribble rises under such enormous guardianship. It rises
+quite clean and single in the shape of a little spring upon the
+hillside, and too few people know it. The other river that flows east
+while the Ribble flows west is the River Ayr. It rises in a curious
+way, for it imitates the Garonne, and finding itself blocked by
+limestone burrows underneath at a place called Malham Tarn, after which
+it has no more trouble.
+
+The River Severn, the River Wye, and a third unimportant river, or at
+least important only for its beauty (and who would insist on that?)
+rise all close together on the skirts of Plinlimmon, and the smallest
+of them has the most wonderful rising, for it falls through the gorge
+of Llygnant, which looks like, and perhaps is, the deepest cleft in
+this island, or, at any rate, the most unexpected. And a fourth source
+on the mountain, a tarn below its summit, is the source of Rheidol,
+which has a short but adventurous life like Achilles.
+
+There is one source in Europe that is properly dealt with, and where
+the religion due to the sources of rivers has free play, and this is
+the source of the Seine. It comes out upon the northern side of the
+hills which the French call the Hills of Gold, in a country of
+pasturage and forest, very high up above the world and thinly peopled.
+The River Seine appears there in a sort of miraculous manner, pouring
+out of a grotto, and over this grotto the Parisians have built a votive
+statue; and there is yet another of the hundred thousand things that
+nobody knows.
+
+
+
+
+On Error
+
+
+There is an elusive idea that has floated through the minds of most of
+us as we grew older and learnt more and more things. It is an idea
+extremely difficult to get into set terms. It is an idea very difficult
+to put so that we shall not seem nonsensical; and yet it is a very
+useful idea, and if it could be realized its realization would be of
+very practical value. It is the idea of a Dictionary of Ignorance and
+Error.
+
+On the face of it a definition of the work is impossible. Strictly
+speaking it would be infinite, for human knowledge, however far
+extended, must always be infinitely small compared with all possible
+knowledge, just as any given finite space is infinitely small compared
+with all space.
+
+But that is not the idea which we entertain when we consider this
+possible Dictionary of Ignorance and Error. What we really mean is a
+Dictionary of the sort of Ignorance and the sort of Error which we know
+ourselves to have been guilty of, which we have escaped by special
+experience or learning as time went on, and against which we would warn
+our fellows.
+
+Flaubert, I think, first put it down in words, and said that such an
+encyclopaedia was very urgently needed.
+
+It will never exist, but we all know that it ought to exist. Bits of it
+appear from time to time piecemeal and here and there, as for instance
+in the annotations which modern scholarship attaches to the great text,
+in the printed criticisms to which sundry accepted doctrines are
+subjected by the younger men to-day, in the detailed restatement of
+historical events which we get from modern research as our fathers
+could never have them—but the work itself, the complete Encyclopaedia
+or Dictionary of Ignorance and Error, will never be printed. It is a
+great pity.
+
+Incidentally one may remark that the process by which a particular
+error is propagated is as interesting to watch as the way in which a
+plant grows.
+
+The first step seems to be the establishing of an authority and the
+giving of that authority a name which comes to connote doctrinal
+infallibility. A very good example of this is the title “Science.” Mere
+physical research, its achievements, its certitudes, even its
+conflicting and self-contradictory hypotheses, having got lumped
+together in many minds under this one title Science, the title is now
+sacred. It is used as a priestly title, as an immediate estopper to
+doubt or criticism.
+
+The next step is a very interesting one for the student of psychical
+pathology to note. It seems to be a disease as native and universal to
+the human mind as is the decay of the teeth to the human body. It seems
+as though we all must suffer somewhat from it, and most of us suffer a
+great deal from it, though in a cool aspect we easily perceive it to be
+a lesion of thought. And this second step is as follows:
+
+The whole lump having been given its sacred title and erected into an
+infallible authority, which you are to accept as directly superior to
+yourself and all personal sources of information, there is attributed
+to this idol a number of attributes. We give it a soul, and a habit and
+manners which do not attach to its stuff at all. The projection of this
+imagined living character in our authority is comparable to what we
+also do with mountains, statues, towns, and so forth. Our living
+individuality lends individuality to them. I might here digress to
+discuss whether this habit of the mind were not a distorted reflection
+of some truth, and whether, indeed, there be not such beings as demons
+or the souls of things. But, to leave that, we take our authority—this
+thing “Science,” for instance—we clothe it with a creed and appetites
+and a will, and all the other human attributes.
+
+This done, we set out in the third step in our progress towards fixed
+error. We make the idol speak. Of course, being only an idol, it talks
+nonsense. But by the previous steps just referred to we must believe
+that nonsense, and believe it we do. Thus it is, I think, that fixed
+error is most generally established.
+
+I have already given one example in the hierarchic title “Science.”
+
+It was but the other day that I picked up a weekly paper in which a
+gentleman was discussing ghosts—that is, the supposed apparition of the
+living and the dead: of the dead though dead, and of the living though
+absent.
+
+Nothing has been more keenly discussed since the beginning of human
+discussions. Are these phenomena (which undoubtedly happen) what modern
+people call subjective, or are they what modern people call objective?
+In old-fashioned English, Are the ghosts really there or are they not?
+The most elementary use of the human reason persuades us that the
+matter is not susceptible of positive proof. The criterion of certitude
+in any matter of perception is an inner sense in the perceiver that the
+thing he perceives is external to himself. He is the only witness; no
+one can corroborate or dispute him. The seer may be right or he may be
+wrong, but we have no proof—and only according to our temperament, our
+fancy, our experience, our mood, do we decide with one or the other of
+the two great schools.
+
+Well, the gentleman of whom I am speaking wrote and had printed in
+plain English this phrase (read it carefully):—“Science teaches us that
+these phenomena are purely subjective.”
+
+Now I am quite sure that of the thousands who read that phrase all but
+a handful read it in the spirit in which one hears the oracle of a god.
+Some read it with regret, some with pleasure, but all with
+acquiescence.
+
+That physical science was not competent in the matter one way or the
+other each of those readers would probably have discovered, if even so
+simple a corrective as the use of the term “physical research” instead
+of the sacred term “science” had been applied; the hierarchic title
+“Science” did the trick.
+
+I might take another example out of many hundreds to show what I mean.
+You have an authority which is called, where documents are concerned,
+“The Best Modern Criticism.” “The Best Modern Criticism” decides that
+“Tam o’ Shanter” was written by a committee of permanent officials of
+the Board of Trade, or that Napoleon Bonaparte never existed. As a
+matter of fact, the tomfoolery does not usually venture upon ground so
+near home, but it talks rubbish just as monstrous about a poem a few
+hundred or a few thousand years old, or a great personality a few
+hundred or a few thousand years old.
+
+Now if you will look at that phrase “The Best Modern Criticism” you
+will see at once that it simply teems with assumption and tautology.
+But it does more and worse: it presupposes that an infallible authority
+must of its own nature be perpetually wrong.
+
+Even supposing that I have the most “modern” (that is, merely the
+latest) criticism to hand, and even supposing that by some omniscience
+of mine I can tell which is “the best” (that is, which part of it has
+really proved most ample, most painstaking, most general, and most
+sincere), even then the phrase fatally condemns me. It is to say that
+Wednesday is always infallible as compared with Tuesday, and Thursday
+as compared with Wednesday, which is absurd.
+
+The B.M.C. tells me in 1875 that the Song of Roland could have no
+origins anterior to the year 1030. But the B.M.C. of 1885 (being a
+B.M.C. and nothing more valuable) has a changed opinion. It must change
+its opinion, that is the law of its being, since an integral factor in
+its value is its modernity. In 1885 B.M.C. tells me that the Song of
+Roland can be traced to origins far earlier, let us say to 912.
+
+In 1895 B.M.C. has come to other conclusions—the Song of Roland is
+certainly as late as 1115 ... and so forth.
+
+Now you would say that an idol of that absurdity could have no effect
+upon sane men. Change the terms and give it another name, and you would
+laugh at the idea of its having an effect upon any men. But we know as
+a matter of fact that it commands the thoughts of nearly all men to-day
+and makes cowards of the most learned.
+
+Perhaps you will ask me at the end of so long a criticism in what way
+error may be corrected, since there is this sort of tendency in us to
+accept it, to which I answer that things correct it, or as the
+philosophers call things, “Reality.” Error does not wash.
+
+To go back to that example of ghosts. If ever you see a ghost (my poor
+reader), I shall ask you afterwards whether he seemed subjective or no.
+I think you will find the word “subjective” an astonishingly thin
+one—if, at least, I catch you early after the experience.
+
+
+
+
+The Great Sight
+
+
+All night we had slept on straw in a high barn. The wood of its beams
+was very old, and the tiles upon the roof were green with age; but
+there hung from beam to beam, fantastically, a wire caught by nails,
+and here and there from this wire hung an electric-light bulb. It was a
+symbol of the time, and the place, and the people. There was no local
+by-law to forbid such a thing, or if there was, no one dreamt of
+obeying it.
+
+Just in the first dawn of that September day we went out, my companion
+and I, at guesswork to hunt in the most amusing kind of hunting, which
+is the hunting of an army. The lane led through one of those lovely
+ravines of Picardy which travellers never know (for they only see the
+plains), and in a little while we thought it wise to strike up the
+steep bank from the valley on to the bare plateau above, but it was all
+at random and all guesswork, only we wisely thought that we were
+nearing the beginning of things, and that on the bare fields of the
+high flat we should have a greater horizon and a better chance of
+catching any indications of men or arms.
+
+When we had reached the height the sun had long risen, but it as yet
+gave no shining and there were no shadows, for a delicate mist hung all
+about the landscape, though immediately above us the sky was faintly
+blue.
+
+It was the weirdest of sensations to go for mile after mile over that
+vast plain, to know that it was cut in regular series by parallel
+ravines which in all that extended view we could not guess at; to see
+up to the limits of the plateau the spires of villages and the groups
+of trees about them, and to know that somewhere in all this there lay
+concealed a _corps d’armée_—and not to see or hear a soul. The only
+human being that we saw was a man driving a heavy farm cart very slowly
+up a side-way just as we came into the great road which has shot dead
+across this country in one line ever since the Romans built it. As we
+went along that road, leaving the fields, we passed by many men indeed,
+and many houses, all in movement with the early morning; and the
+chalked numbers on the doors, and here and there an empty tin of
+polishing-paste or an order scrawled on paper and tacked to a wall
+betrayed the passage of soldiers. But of the army there was nothing at
+all. Scouting on foot (for that was what it was) is a desperate
+business, and that especially if you have nothing to tell you whether
+you will get in touch in five, or ten, or twenty miles.
+
+It was nine o’clock before a clatter of horse-hoofs came up the road
+behind us. At first my companion and I wondered whether it were the
+first riders of the Dragoons or Cuirassiers. In that case the advance
+was from behind us. But very soon, as the sound grew clearer, we heard
+how few they were, and then there came into view, trotting rapidly, a
+small escort and two officers with the umpires’ badges, so there was
+nothing doing; but when, half a mile ahead of us on the road, they
+turned off to the left over plough, we knew that that was the way we
+must follow too. Before we came to the turning-place, before we left
+the road to take the fields on the left, there came from far off and on
+our right the sound of a gun.
+
+It was my companion who heard it first. We strained to hear it again;
+twice we thought we had caught it, and then again twice we doubted. It
+is not so easily recognizable a sound as you might think in those great
+plains cut by islands of high trees and steading walls. The little “75”
+gun lying low makes a different sound altogether at a distance from the
+old piece of “90.” At any rate there was here no doubt that there were
+guns to the right and in front of us, and the umpire had gone to the
+left. We were getting towards the thick, and we had only to go straight
+on to find out where the front was.
+
+Just as we had so decided and were still pursuing the high road, there
+came, not half a mile away and again to our right, in a valley below
+us, that curious sound which is like nothing at all unless it be
+dumping of flints out of a cart: rifle fire. It cracked and tore in
+stretches. Then there were little gaps of silence like the gaps in
+signalling, and then it cracked and tore in stretches again; and then,
+fitfully, one individual shot and then another would be heard; and,
+much further off, with little sounds like snaps, the replies began from
+the hillside beyond the stream. So far so good. Here was contact in the
+valley below us, and the guns, some way behind and far off northwards,
+had opened. So we got the hang of it instantly—the front was a sort of
+a crescent lying roughly north and south, and roughly parallel to the
+great road, and the real or feigned mass of the advance was on the
+extreme left of that front. We were in it now, and that anxious and
+wearing business in all hunting, finding, was over; but we had been on
+foot six mortal hours before coming across our luck, and more than half
+the soldiers’ day was over. These men had been afoot since three, and
+certain units on the left had already marched over twenty miles.
+
+After that coming in touch with our business, not only did everything
+become plain, but the numbers we met, and what I have called “the thick
+of things,” fed us with interest. We passed half the 38th, going down
+the road singing, to extend the line, and in a large village we came to
+the other half, slouching about in the traditional fashion of the
+Service; they had been waiting for an hour. With them, and lined up all
+along the village street, was one battery, with the drivers dismounted,
+and all that body were at ease. There were men sitting on the doorsteps
+of the houses and men trotting to the canteen-wagon or to the village
+shops to buy food; and there were men reading papers which a pedlar had
+brought round. Mud and dust had splashed them all; upon some there was
+a look of great fatigue; they were of all shapes and sizes, and
+altogether it was the sort of sight you would not see in any other
+service in the world. It was the sort of sight which so disgusted the
+Emperor Joseph when he made his little tour to spy out the land before
+the Revolutionary Wars. It was the sort of sight which made Massenbach
+before Grandpré marvel whether the French forces were soldiers at all,
+and the sort of sight which made Valmy inexplicable to the King of
+Prussia and his staff. It was the sort of sight which eighteen months
+later still convinced Mack in Tournai that the Duke of York’s plan was
+a plan “of annihilation.” It is a trap for judgment is the French
+service.
+
+So they lounged about and bought bread, and shifted their packs, and so
+the drivers stood by their horses, and so they all waited and slouched;
+until there came, not a man with a bugle nor anything with the
+slightest savour of drama but a little fellow running along thumping in
+his loose leather leggings, who went up to a Major of Artillery and
+saluted, and immediately afterwards the Major put his hand up, and then
+down a village street, from a point which we could not see came a
+whistle, and the whole of that mass of men began to swarm. The
+grey-blue coats of the line swung round the corner of the village
+street; they had yet a few miles before them. Anything more rapid or
+less in step it would be difficult to conceive. The guns were off at a
+right angle down the main road, making a prodigious clatter, and at the
+same time appeared two parties, one of which it was easy to understand,
+the other not. They were both parties of sappers. The one party had a
+great roll of wire on a drum, and as quick as you could think they were
+unreeling it, and as they unreeled it fastening it to eaves,
+overhanging branches, and to corners of walls, stretching it out
+forward. It was the field-telephone. The other party came along
+carrying great beams upon their shoulders, but what they were to do
+with these beams we did not know.
+
+We followed the tail of the line down into the valley, and all that
+morning long and past the food time at midday, and so till the sun
+declined in the afternoon, we went with the 38th in its gradual success
+from crest to crest. And still the 38th slouched by companies, and mile
+after mile with checks and halts, and it never seemed to get either
+less or more tired. The men had had twelve hours of it when they came
+at last, and we after them, on to the critical position. They had
+carried (together with all the line to left and to the right of them) a
+string of villages which crowned the crest of a further plateau, and
+over this further plateau they were advancing against the main body of
+the resistance—the other army corps which was set up against ours, to
+simulate an enemy.
+
+A railway line ran here across the rolling hedgeless fields, and just
+at the point where my companion and I struck it there was a dip in the
+land and a high embankment which hid the plain beyond; but from that
+plain beyond one heard the separate fire of the advancing line in its
+scattered order. We climbed the embankment, and from its ridge we saw
+over two miles or more of stubble, the little creeping bunches of the
+attack. What was resisting, or where it lay, one could only guess. Some
+hundreds of yards before us to the east, with the sloping sun full on
+it, a line of thicket, one scattered wood and then another, an
+imperceptible lifting of the earth here and there marked the opposing
+firing line. Two pompoms could be spotted exactly, for the flashes were
+clear through the underwood. And still the tide of the advance
+continued to flow, and the little groups came up and fed it, one after
+another and another, in the centre where we were, and far away to the
+north and right away to the south the countryside was alive with it.
+The action was beginning to take on something of that final movement
+and decision which makes the climax of manoeuvres look so great a game.
+But in a little while that general creeping forward was checked: there
+were orders coming from the umpires, and a sort of lull fell over each
+position held. My companion said to me:
+
+“Let us go forward now over the intervening zone and in among
+Picquart’s men, and get well behind their line, and see whether there
+is a rally or whether before the end of this day they begin to fall
+back again.”
+
+So we did, walking a mile or so until we had long passed their outposts
+and were behind their forward lines. And standing there, upon a little
+eminence near a wood, we turned and looked over what we had come,
+westward towards the sun which was now not far from its setting. Then
+it was that we saw the last of the Great Sight.
+
+The level light, mellow and already reddening, illumined all that plain
+strangely, and with the absolute stillness of the air contrasted the
+opening of the guns which had been brought up to support the renewal of
+the attack. We saw the isolated woods standing up like islands with low
+steep cliffs, dotted in a sea of stubble for miles and miles, and first
+from the cover of one and then from another the advance perpetually,
+piercing and deploying. As we so watched there buzzed high above us,
+like a great hornet, a biplane, circling well within our lines, beyond
+attack from the advance, but overlooking all they concealed behind it.
+In a few minutes a great Bleriot monoplane like a hawk followed, yet
+further inwards. The two great birds shot round in an arc, parallel to
+the firing line, and well behind it, and in a few minutes, that seemed
+seconds, they were dots to the south and then lost in the air. And
+perpetually, as the sun declined, Picquart’s men were falling back
+north and south of us and before us, and the advance continued. Group
+by group we saw it piercing this hedge, that woodland, now occupying a
+nearer and a nearer roll of land. It was the greatest thing imaginable:
+this enormous sweep of men, the dead silence of the air, and the
+comparatively slight contrast of the ceaseless pattering rifle fire and
+the slight intermittent accompaniment of the advancing batteries; until
+the sun set and all this human business slackened. Then for the first
+time one heard bugles, which were a command to cease the game.
+
+I would not have missed that day nor lose the memories of it for
+anything in the world.
+
+
+
+
+The Decline of a State
+
+
+The decline of a State is not equivalent to a mortal sickness therein.
+States are organisms subject to diseases and to decay as are the
+organisms of men’s bodies; but they are not subject to a rhythmic rise
+and fall as is the body of a man. A State in its decline is never a
+State doomed or a State dying. States perish slowly or by violence, but
+never without remedy and rarely without violence.
+
+The decline of a State differs with the texture of it. A democratic
+State will decline from a lowering of its potential, that is of its
+ever-ready energy to act in a crisis, to correct and to control its
+servants in common times, to watch them narrowly and suspect them at
+all times. A despotic State will decline when the despot is not in
+point of fact the true depository of despotic power, but some other
+acting in his name, of whom the people know little and cannot judge; or
+when the despot, though fully in view and recognized, lacks will; or
+when (which is rare) he is so inhuman as to miss the general sense of
+his subjects. An oligarchic State, or aristocracy as it is called, will
+decline principally through two agencies which are, first, illusion,
+and secondly, lack of civic aptitude. For an oligarchic State tends
+very readily to illusion, being conducted by men who live at leisure,
+satisfy their passions, are immune from the laws, and prefer to shield
+themselves from reality. Their capacity or appetite for illusion will
+rapidly pervade those below them, for in an aristocracy the rulers are
+subjected to a sort of worship from the rest of the community, and thus
+it comes about that aristocracies in their decline accept fantastic
+histories of their own past, conceive victory possible without armies,
+wealth to be an indication of ability, and national security to be a
+natural gift rather than a product of the will. Such communities
+further fail from the lack of civic aptitude, as was said above, which
+means that they deliberately elect to leave the mass of citizens
+incompetent and irresponsible for generations, so that, when any more
+strain is upon them, they look at once for some men other than
+themselves to relieve them, and are incapable of corporate action upon
+their own account.
+
+The decline of a State differs also according to whether it be a great
+State or a small one, for in the first indifference, in the latter
+faction, are a peril, and in the first ignorance, in the latter private
+spite.
+
+Then again, the decline of a State will differ according to whether its
+strength is rooted originally in commerce, in arms, or in production;
+and if in production, then whether in the production of the artisan or
+in that of the peasant. If arms be the basis of the State, then that
+the army should become professional and apart is a symptom of decline
+and a cause of it; if commerce, the substitution of hazards and
+imaginaries for the transport of real goods and the search after real
+demand; if production, the discontent or apathy of the producer; as
+with peasants an ill system in the taxation of the land or in the
+things necessary for its tillage, such as a misgovernment of its
+irrigation in a dry country; the permission of private exactions and
+tolls in a fertile one; the toleration of thieves and forestallers, and
+so forth. Artisans, upon the other hand, may well flourish, though the
+State be corrupt in such matters, but they must be secured in a high
+wage and be given a vast liberty of protest, for if they sink to be
+slaves in fact, they will from the nature of their toil grow both weak
+and foolish. Yet is not the State endangered by the artisan’s throwing
+off a refuse of ill-paid and starving men who are either too many for
+the work or unskilful at it? Such an excretion would poison a
+peasantry, remaining in their body as it were, but artisans are purged
+thereby. This refuse it is for the State to decide upon. It may in an
+artisan State be used for soldiery (since such States commonly maintain
+but small armies and are commonly indifferent to military glory), or it
+may be set to useful labour, or again, destroyed; but this last use is
+repugnant to humanity, and so in the long run hurtful to the State.
+
+In the decline of a State, of whatever nature that State be, two vices
+will immediately appear and grow: these are Avarice and Fear; and men
+will more readily accept the imputation of Avarice than of Fear, for
+Avarice is the less despicable of the two—yet in fact Fear will be by
+far the strongest passion of the time.
+
+Avarice will show itself not indeed in a mere greed of gain (for this
+is common to all societies whether flourishing or failing), but rather
+in a sort of taking for granted and permeation of the mere love of
+money, so that history will be explained by it, wars judged by their
+booty or begun in order to enrich a few, love between men and women
+wholly subordinated to it, especially among the rich: wealth made a
+test for responsibility and great salaries invented and paid to those
+who serve the State. This vice will also be apparent in the easy
+acquaintance of all who are possessed of wealth and their segregation
+from the less fortunate, for avarice cleaves society flatways, keeping
+the scum of it quite clear of the middle, the middle of it quite clear
+of the dregs, and so forth. It is a further mark of avarice in its last
+stages that the rich are surrounded with lies in which they themselves
+believe. Thus, in the last phase, there are no parasites but only
+friends, no gifts but only loans, which are more esteemed favours than
+gifts once were. No one vicious but only tedious, and no one a poltroon
+but only slack.
+
+Of Fear in the decline of a State it may be said that it is so much the
+master passion of such decline as to eat up all others. Coming by
+travel from a healthy State to one diseased, Fear is the first point
+you take. Men dare not print or say what they feel of the judges, the
+public governors, the action of the police, the controllers of fortunes
+and of news. This Fear will have about it something comic, providing
+infinite joy to the foreigner, and modifying with laughter the lament
+of the patriot. A miserable hack that never had a will of his own, but
+ran to do what he was told for twenty years at the bidding of his
+masters, being raised to the Bench will be praised for an impartial
+virtue more than human. A drunken fellow, the son of a drunkard, having
+stolen control over some half-dozen sheets, must be named under the
+breath or not at all. A powerful minister may be accused with sturdy
+courage of something which he did not do and no one would mind his
+doing, but under the influence of Fear, to tell the least little truth
+about him will put a whole assembly into a sort of blankness.
+
+This vice has for its most laughable effect the raising of a whole host
+of phantoms, and when a State is so far gone that civic Fear is quite
+normal to the citizens, then you will find them blenching with terror
+at a piece of print, a whispered accusation. Bankruptcy, though they be
+possessed of nothing, and even the ill-will of women. Moneylenders
+under this influence have the greatest power, next after them,
+blackmailers of all kinds, and next after these eccentrics who may
+blurt or break out. Those who have least power in the decline of a
+State, are priests, soldiers, the mothers of many children, the lovers
+of one woman, and saints.
+
+
+
+
+On Past Greatness
+
+
+There lies in the North-East of France, close against the Belgian
+frontier and within cannon shot of the famous battlefield of
+Malplaquet, a little town called Bavai—I have written of it elsewhere.
+
+Coming into this little town you seem to be entering no more than a
+decent, unimportant market borough, a larger village meant for country
+folk, perhaps without a history and certainly without fame.
+
+As you come to look about you one thing after another enlivens your
+curiosity and suggests something at once enormous and remote in the
+destinies of the place.
+
+In the first place, seven great roads go out like the seven rays of a
+star, plumb straight, darting along the line, across the vast, bare
+fields of Flanders, past and along the many isolated woods of the
+provinces, and making to great capitals far off—to Cologne, to Paris,
+to Treves, and to the ports of the sea.
+
+These roads are deserted in great part. Some of them are metalled in
+certain sections, and again in other sections are no more than lanes,
+and again no more than footpaths, as you proceed along their miles of
+way; but their exact design awfully impresses the mind. You know, as
+you follow such strict alignment, that you are fulfilling the majestic
+purpose of Imperial Rome. It was the Romans that made these things.
+
+Then, intrigued and excited by such remains of greatness, you read what
+you can of the place.... And you find nothing but a dust of legend. You
+find a story that once here a king, filled with ambition and
+worshipping strange gods, thrust out these great roads to the ends of
+the earth; desired his capital to be a hub and navel for the world. He
+put them under the protection of the seven planets and of the deities
+of those stars. Three he paved with black marble and four with white
+marble, and where they met upon the market place he put up a golden
+terminal. There the legend ends.
+
+It is only legend—a true product of the Dark Ages, when all that Rome
+had done rose like a huge dream in the mind of Europe and took on
+gorgeous and fantastic colouring. You learn (for the rest) very
+little—that ornaments and money have been found dating from two
+thousand years, that once great walls surrounded the place. It must
+have had noble buildings and solemn courts. In strict history all you
+will discover is that it was the capital of that tribe, the Nervii,
+against whom Caesar fought, and whose territory was early conquered for
+the Empire. You will find nothing more. There is no living tradition,
+there is no voice; the little town is dumb.
+
+The place is a figure, and a striking one, of greatness long dead, and
+a man visiting its small domestic interests to-day, and noting its
+comfort, its humility, and its sleep, is reminded of many things
+attaching to human fame. It would seem as though the ambitions of men,
+and that exalted appetite for glory which has produced the chief things
+of this world, suffer the effect of time somewhat as the body of an
+animal slain will suffer that.
+
+One part of the organism and then another decays and mixes back with
+nature. The effect of will has vanished. The thing is a prey to all
+that environment which, once alive, it combated, conquered, and
+transformed to its own use. One portion after another is lost, until at
+last only the most resisting stands—the skeleton and hard framework,
+the least expressive, the least personal part of the whole. This also
+decays and perishes. Then there remains no more but a score of hardened
+fragments that linger in their place, and what has passed away is
+fortunate if even the slightest or most fantastic legend of itself
+survives.
+
+The great dead are first forgotten in their physical habit; we lose the
+nature of their voices, we forget their sympathies and their
+affections. Bit by bit all that they intended to be eternal slips back
+into the common thing around. A blurred image, growing fainter and
+fainter, lingers. At last the person vanishes, and in its place some
+public raising material things—a monument, a tomb, an ornament, or
+weapon of enduring metal—is all that remains.
+
+If it were possible for the spring of appetite and quest to be dried up
+in man, such a spectacle would dry up that spring.
+
+It is not possible, for it is providentially in the nature of man to
+cherish these illusions of an immortal memory and of a life bestowed
+upon the shade or the mere name of his living greatness. Those various
+forms of fame which are young men’s goals, and to which the eager
+creative power of early manhood so properly directs itself, seem each
+in turn or each for its varying temperament to promise the desired
+reward; and one imagines that his love, another that his discoveries,
+another that his victories in the field or his conspicuous acts of
+courage will remain permanently with his fellows long after he has left
+their feast.
+
+As though to give some substance to the flattering cheat, there is one
+kind of fame which men have been permitted to attain, and which does
+give them a sort of fixed tenure—if not for ever, yet for generations
+upon generations—in the human city. This sort of fame is the fame of
+the great poets. There is nothing more enduring. It has for some who
+were most blessed outlasted, you may say, all material things which
+they handled or they knew—all fabrics, all instruments, all
+habitations. It is comparable in its endurance to the years, and a man
+reads the “Song of Roland” and can still look on that same unchanged
+Cleft of Roncesvalles, or a man reads the Iliad and can look to-day
+westward from the shores to Tenedos. But wait a moment. Are they indeed
+blessed in this, the great poets? Ronsard debated it. He decided that
+they were, and put into the mouth of the muses the great lines:——
+
+Mais un tel accident n’arrive point a l’âme,
+Qui sans matière vist immortelle là haut.
+
+Vela saigement dit, Ceux dont la fantaisie
+ Sera religieuse et devote envers Dieu
+Tousjours acheveront quelque grand poésie,
+ Et dessus leur renom la Parque n’aura lieu.
+
+
+But the matter is still undecided.
+
+
+
+
+Mr. The Duke: The Man of Malplaquet
+
+
+On the field of Malplaquet, that battlefield, I met a man.
+
+He was pointed out to me as a man who drove travellers to Bavai. His
+name was Mr. The Duke, and he was very poor.
+
+If he comes across these lines (which is exceedingly unlikely) I offer
+him my apologies. Anyhow, I can write about him freely, for he is not
+rich, and, what is more, the laws of his country permit the telling of
+the truth about our fellow-men, even when they are rich.
+
+Mr. The Duke was of some years, and his colour was that of cedar wood.
+I met him in his farmyard, and I said to him:
+
+“Is it you, sir, that drive travellers to Bavai?”
+
+“No,” said he.
+
+Accustomed by many years of travel to this type of response, I
+continued:
+
+“How much do you charge?”
+
+“Two francs fifty,” said he.
+
+“I will give you three francs,” I said, and when I had said this he
+shook his head and replied:
+
+“You fall at an evil moment; I was about to milk the cows.” Having said
+this he went to harness the horse.
+
+When the horse was harnessed to his little cart (it was an extremely
+small horse, full of little bones and white in colour, with one eye
+stronger than the other) he gave it to his little daughter to hold, and
+himself sat down to table, proposing a meal.
+
+“It is but humble fare,” he said, “for we are poor.”
+
+This sounded familiar to me; I had both read and heard it before. The
+meal was of bread and butter, pasty and beer, for Malplaquet is a
+country of beer and not of wine.
+
+As he sat at table the old man pointed out to me that contraband across
+the Belgian frontier, which is close by, was no longer profitable.
+
+“The Fraud,” he said, “is no longer a living for anyone.”
+
+Upon that frontier contraband is called “The Fraud”; it holds an
+honourable place as a career.
+
+“The Fraud,” he continued, “has gone long ago; it has burst. It is no
+longer to be pursued. There is not even any duty upon apples.... But
+there is a duty upon pears. Had I a son I would not put him into The
+Fraud.... Sometimes there is just a chance here and there.... One can
+pick up an occasion. But take it all in all (and here he wagged his
+head solemnly) there is nothing in it any more.”
+
+I said that I had no experience of contraband professionally, but that
+I knew a very honest man who lived by it in the country of Andorra, and
+that according to my morals a man had a perfect right to run the risk
+and take his chance, for there was no contract between him and the
+power he was trying to get round. This announcement pleased the old
+gentleman, but it did not grip his mind. He was of your practical sort.
+He was almost a Pragmatist. Abstractions wearied him. He put no faith
+in the reality of ideas. I think he was a Nominalist like Abelard: and
+whatever excuse you may make for him, Abelard was a Nominalist right
+enough, for it was the intellectual thing to be at the time, though St.
+Bernard utterly confuted him in arguments of enormous length and
+incalculable boredom.
+
+The old man, then, I say, would have nothing to do with first
+principles, and he reasserted his position that, in the concrete, in
+the existent world, The Fraud no longer paid.
+
+This said for the sixth or seventh time, he drank some brandy to put
+heart into him and climbed up into his little cart, I by his side. He
+hit the white horse with a stick, making at the same time an
+extraordinary shrill noise with his mouth, like a siren, and the horse
+began to slop and sludge very dolefully towards Bavai.
+
+“This horse,” said Mr. The Duke, “is a wonderfully good horse. He goes
+like the wind. He is of Arab extraction, and comes from Africa.”
+
+With these words he gave the horse another huge blow with his stick,
+and once more emitted his piercing cry. The horse went neither faster
+nor slower than before, and seemed very indifferent to the whole
+performance.
+
+“He is from Africa,” said Mr. The Duke again, meditatively. “Do you
+know Africa?”
+
+Africa with the French populace means Algiers. I answered that I knew
+it, and that in particular I knew the road southward from Constantine.
+At this he looked very pleased, and said:
+
+“I was a soldier in Africa. I deserted seven times.”
+
+To this I made no answer. I did not know how he wanted me to take it,
+so I waited until he should speak again, which he soon did, and said:
+
+“The last time I deserted I was free for a year and a half. I used to
+conduct beasts; that was my trade. When they caught me I was to have
+been shot. I was saved by the tears of a woman!”
+
+Having said this the old man pulled out a very small pipe and filled it
+with exceedingly black tobacco. He lit it, then he began talking again
+rather more excitedly.
+
+“It is a terrible thing and an unhappy thing none the less,” he went
+on, “that a man should be taken out to be shot and should be saved by
+the tears of a woman.” Then he added, “Of what use are wars? How
+foolish it is that men should kill each other! If there were a war I
+would not fight. Would you?”
+
+I said I thought I would; but whether I should like to or not would
+depend upon the war.
+
+He was eager to contradict and to tell me that war was wrong and
+stupid. Having behind him the logical training of fifteen Christian
+centuries he was in no way muddle-headed upon the matter. He saw very
+well that his doctrine meant that it was wrong to have a country, and
+wrong to love it, and that patriotism was all bosh, and that no ideal
+was worth physical pain or trouble. To such conclusions had he come at
+the end of his life.
+
+The white horse meanwhile slouched; Bavai grew somewhat nearer as we
+sat in silence after his last sentence. He was turning many things over
+in his mind. He veered off on to political economy.
+
+“When the rich man at the Manufactory here, the place where they sell
+phosphates for the land, when he stands beer to all the workmen and to
+the countryside, I always say, ‘Fools! All this will be put on to the
+cost of the phosphates; they will cost you more!’”
+
+Mr. The Duke did not accept John Stuart Mill’s proposition upon the
+cost of production nor the general theories of Ricardo upon which
+Mill’s propositions were based. In his opinion rent was a factor in the
+cost of production, for he told me that butter had gone up because the
+price of land was rising near the towns. In what he next said I found
+out that he was not a Collectivist, for he said a man should own enough
+to live upon, but he said that this was impossible if rich people were
+allowed to live. I asked him what the politics of the countryside were
+and how people voted. He said:
+
+“The politicians trick the people. They are a heap of worthlessness.”
+
+I asked him if he voted, and he said “yes.” He said there was only one
+way to vote, but I did not understand what this meant.
+
+Had time served I should have asked him further questions—upon the
+nature of the soul, its ultimate fate, the origin of man and his
+destiny, whether mortal or immortal; the proper constitution of the
+State, the choice of the legislator, the prince, and the magistrate;
+the function of art, whether it is subsidiary or primary in human life;
+the family; marriage. Upon the State he had already informed me, and
+also upon the institution of property, and upon his view of armies.
+Upon all those other things he would equally have given me a clear
+reply, for he was a man that knew his own mind, and that is more than
+most people can say.
+
+But we were now in Bavai, and I had no time to discover more. We drank
+together before we parted, and I was very pleased to see the honest
+look in his face. With more leisure and born to greater opportunities
+he would have been talked about, this Man of Malplaquet. He had come to
+his odd conclusions as the funny people do in Scandinavia and in
+Russia, and among the rich intellectuals and usurers in London and
+Berlin; but he was a jollier man than they are, for he could drive a
+horse and lie about it, and he could also milk a cow. As we parted he
+used a phrase that wounded me, and which I had only heard once before
+in my life. He said:
+
+“We shall never see each other again!”
+
+Another man had once said this thing to me before. This man was a
+farmer in the Northumbrian hills, who walked with me a little way in
+the days when I was going over Carter Fell to find the Scots people,
+many, many years ago. He also said: “We shall never meet again!”
+
+
+
+
+The Game of Cards
+
+
+A youth of no more than twenty-three years entered a first-class
+carriage at the famous station of Swindon in the county of Wiltshire,
+proposing to travel to the uttermost parts of the West and to enjoy a
+comfortable loneliness while he ruminated upon all things human and
+divine; when he was sufficiently annoyed to discover that in the
+further corner of the carriage was sitting an old gentleman of
+benevolent appearance, or at any rate a gentleman of benevolent
+appearance who appeared in his youthful eyes to be old.
+
+For though the old gentleman was, as a fact, but sixty, yet his virile
+beard had long gone white and the fringes of hair attaching to his
+ostrich egg of a head confirmed his venerable appearance.
+
+When the train had started the young man proceeded in no very good
+temper and with great solemnity to fill a pipe. He turned to his
+senior, who was watching him in a very paternal and happy manner, and
+said formally:
+
+“I hope you do not mind my smoking, sir?”
+
+“Not at all,” said the old boy; “it is a habit I have long grown
+accustomed to in others.”
+
+The young man bowed in a somewhat absurd fashion and felt for his
+matches. He discovered to his no small mortification that he had none.
+He was so used to his pipe after a meal that he really could not forgo
+it. He came off his perch by at least three steps and asked the old man
+very gently whether he had any matches.
+
+The older man produced a box and at the same time brought out with it a
+little notebook and a playing card which happened to be in his pocket.
+The young man took the matches and lit his pipe, surveying the old man
+the while with a more complacent eye.
+
+“It is very kind of you, sir,” he said a little less stiffly. He handed
+back the matches, wrapped his rug round his legs, sat down in his
+place, and knowing that one should prolong the conversation for a
+moment or two after a favour, said: “I see that you play cards.”
+
+“I do,” said the old man simply; “would you like a game?”
+
+“I don’t mind,” said the young man, who had always heard that it was
+unmanly and ridiculous to refuse a game of cards in a railway carriage.
+
+The elder man laughed merrily in his strong beard as he saw his junior
+begin to spread somewhat awkwardly a copy of a newspaper upon his
+knees. “I’ll show you a trick worth two of that,” he said, and taking
+one of the first-class cushions, which alone of railway cushions are
+movable from its place, he came over to the corner opposite the young
+man and made a table of the cushion between them. “Now,” said he
+genially, “what’s it to be?”
+
+“Well,” said the young man like one who expounds new mysteries, “do you
+know piquet?”
+
+“Oh, yes,” said his companion with another happy little laugh of
+contentment with the world. “I’ll take you on. What shall it be?”
+
+“Pennies if you like,” said the young man nonchalantly.
+
+“Very well, and double for the Rubicon.”
+
+“How do you mean?” said the young man, puzzled.
+
+“You will see,” said the old man, and they began to play.
+
+The game was singularly absorbing. At first the young man won a few
+pounds; then he lost rather heavily, then he won again, but not quite
+enough to recoup. Then in the fourth game he won, so that he was a
+little ahead, and meanwhile the old man chatted merrily during the
+discarding or the shuffling: during the shuffling especially. He looked
+out towards the downs with something of a sigh at one moment, and said:
+
+“It’s a happy world.”
+
+“Yes,” answered the younger man with the proper lugubriousness of
+youth, “but it all comes to an end.”
+
+“It isn’t its coming to an end,” said the elder man, declaring a point
+of six, “that’s not the tragedy; it’s the little bits coming to an end
+meanwhile, before the whole comes to an end: that’s the tragedy....”
+But he added with another of his jolly laughs: “We must play. Piquet
+takes up all one’s grey matter.”
+
+They played and the young man lost again, but by a very narrow margin:
+it was quite an absorbing game. As they shuffled again the young man
+said:
+
+“What did you mean by the little bits stopping, or whatever it was?”
+
+“Oh,” said the old man as though he couldn’t remember, and then he
+added: “Oh, yes, I mean you’ll find, as you grow older, people die and
+affections change, and, though it seems silly to mention it in company
+with higher things, there’s what Shelley called the ‘contagion of the
+world’s slow stain.’”
+
+Then their conversation was interrupted by the ardour of the game; but
+as they played the young man was ruminating, and he had come to the
+conclusion that his senior was imperfectly educated and was probably of
+the middle classes, whereas he himself was destined to be a naval
+architect, and with that object had recently left the university for an
+office in the city. The young man thought that a man properly educated
+would never quote a tag: he was wrong there. As he had allowed his
+thoughts to wander somewhat the young man lost that game rather
+heavily, and at the end of it he was altogether about ten shillings to
+the bad. It was his turn to shuffle. The older man was at leisure to
+speak, and did so rather dreamily as he gazed at the landscape again.
+
+“Things change, you know,” he said, “and there is the contagion of the
+world’s slow stain. One gets preoccupied: especially about money. When
+men marry they get very much preoccupied upon that point. It’s bad for
+them, but it can’t be helped.”
+
+“You cut,” said the young man.
+
+His elder cut and they played again. This time as they played their
+game the old man broke his rule of silence and continued his
+observations interruptedly:
+
+“Four kings,” he said.... “It isn’t that a man gets to think money
+all-important, it is that he has to think of it all the time.... No,
+three queens are no good. I said four kings.... four knaves.... The
+little losses of money don’t affect one, but perpetual trouble about it
+does, and” (closing up the majority of tricks which he had just gained)
+“many a man goes on making more year after year and yet feels himself
+in peril.... _And_ the last trick.” He took up the cards to shuffle
+them. “Towards the very end of life,” he continued, “it gets less, I
+suppose, but you’ll feel the burden of it.” He put the pack over for
+the younger man to cut. When that was done he dealt them out slowly. As
+he dealt he said: “One feels the loss of little material things:
+objects to which one was attached, a walking-stick, or a ring, or a
+watch which one has carried for years. Your declare.”
+
+The young man declared, and that game was played in silence. I regret
+to say that the young man was Rubiconed, and was thirty shillings in
+the elder’s debt.
+
+“We’ll stop if you like” said the elder man kindly.
+
+“Oh, no,” said the youth with nonchalance, “I’ll pay you now if you
+like.”
+
+“Not at all, I didn’t mean that,” said the older man with a sudden
+prick of honour.
+
+“Oh, but I will, and we’ll start fair again,” said the young man.
+Whereupon he handed over his combined losses in gold, the older man
+gave him change, they shuffled again, and they went on with their play.
+
+“After all,” said the older man, musing as he confessed to a point of
+no more than five, “it’s all in the day’s work.... It’s just a day’s
+work,” he repeated with a saddened look in his eyes, “it’s a game that
+one plays like this game, and then when it’s over it’s over. It’s the
+little losses that count.”
+
+That game again was unfortunate for the young man, and he had to shell
+out fifteen and six. But the brakes were applied, Bristol was reached,
+the train came to a standstill, and the young man, looking up a little
+confused and hurried, said: “Hello, Bristol! I get out here.”
+
+“So do I,” said the older man. They both stood up together, and the
+jolt of the train as it stopped dead threw them into each other’s arms.
+
+“I am really very sorry,” said the youth.
+
+“It’s my fault,” said the old chap like a good fellow, “I ought to have
+caught hold. You get out and I’ll hand you your bag.”
+
+“It’s very kind of you,” said the young man. He was really flattered by
+so much attention, but he knew himself what a good companion he was and
+he could understand it; besides which they had made friends during that
+little journey. He always liked a man to whom he had lost some money in
+an honest game.
+
+There was a heavy crowd upon the platform, and two men barging up out
+of it saluted the old man boisterously by the name of Jack. He twinkled
+at them with his eyes as he began moving the luggage about, and stood
+for a moment in the doorway with his own bag in his right hand and the
+young man’s bag in his left. The young man so saw it for an instant, a
+fine upstanding figure—he saw his bag handed by some mistake to the
+second of the old man’s friends, a porter came by at the moment pushing
+through the crowd with a trolley, an old lady made a scene, the porter
+apologized, the crowd took sides, some for the porter, some for the old
+lady; the young man, with the deference of his age, politely asked
+several people to make way, but when he had emerged from the struggle
+his companion, his companion’s friends, and his own bag could not be
+found; or at any rate he could not make out where they were in the
+great mass that pushed and surged upon the platform.
+
+He made himself a little conspicuous by asking too many questions and
+by losing his temper twice with people who had done him no harm, when,
+just as his excitement was growing more than querulous, a very heavy,
+stupid-looking man in regulation boots tapped him on the shoulder and
+said: “Follow me.” He was prepared with an oath by way of reply, but
+another gentleman of equal weight, wearing boots of the same pattern,
+linked his arm in his and between them they marched him away, to a
+little private closet opening out of the stationmaster’s room.
+
+“Now, sir,” said he who had first tapped him on the shoulder, “be good
+enough to explain your movements.”
+
+“I don’t know what you mean,” said the young man.
+
+“You were in the company,” said the older man severely, “of an old man,
+bald, with a white beard and a blue sailor suit. He had come from
+London; you joined him at Swindon. We have evidence that he was to be
+met at this station and it will be to your advantage if you make a
+clean breast of it.”
+
+The young man was violent and he was borne away.
+
+But he had friends at Bristol. He gave his references and he was
+released. To this day he believes that he suffered not from folly, but
+from injustice. He did not see his bag again, but after all it
+contained no more than his evening clothes, for which he had paid or
+rather owed six guineas, four shirts, as many collars and dress ties, a
+silver-mounted set of brushes and combs, and useless cut-glass bottles,
+a patented razor, a stick of shaving soap, and two very, very
+confidential letters which he treasured. His watch, of course, was
+gone, but not, I am glad to say, his chain, which hung dangling, though
+in his flurry he had not noticed it. It made him look a trifle
+ridiculous. As he wore no tie-pin he had not lost that, and beyond his
+temper he had indeed lost nothing further save, possibly, a textbook
+upon Thermodynamics. This book he _thought_ he remembered having put
+into the bag, and if he had it belonged to his library, but he could
+not quite remember this point, and when the Library claimed it he
+stoutly disputed their claim.
+
+In this dispute he was successful, but it was the only profit he made
+out of that journey, unless we are to count his experience, and
+experience, as all the world knows, is a thing that men must buy.
+
+
+
+
+“King Lear”
+
+
+The great unity which was built up two thousand years ago and was
+called Christendom in its final development split and broke in pieces.
+The various civilizations of its various provinces drifted apart, and
+it will be for the future historian to say at what moment the isolation
+of each from all was farthest pushed. It is certain that that point is
+passed.
+
+In the task of reuniting what was broken—it is the noblest work a
+modern man can do—the very first mechanical act must be to explain one
+national soul to another. That act is not final. The nations of Europe,
+now so divided, still have more in common than those things by which
+they differ, and it is certain that when they have at last revealed to
+them their common origin they will return to it. They will return to
+it, perhaps, under the pressure of war waged by some not Christian
+civilization, but they will return. In the meanwhile, of those acts not
+final, yet of immediate necessity in the task of establishing unity, is
+the act of introducing one national soul to another.
+
+Now this is best accomplished in a certain way which I will describe.
+You will take that part in the letters of a nation which you maturely
+judge most or best to reflect the full national soul, with its
+qualities, careless of whether these be great or little; you will take
+such a work as reproduces for you as you read it, not only in its
+sentiment, but in its very rhythm, the stuff and colour of the nation;
+this you will present to the foreigner, who cannot understand. His
+efforts must be laborious, very often unfruitful, but where it is
+fruitful it will be of a decisive effect.
+
+Thus let anyone take some one of the immortal things that Racine wrote
+and show them to an Englishman. He will hardly ever be able to make
+anything of it at first. Here and there some violently emotional
+passage may faintly touch him, but the mass of the verse will seem to
+him dead. Now, if by constant reading, by association with those who
+know what Racine is, he at last sees him—and these changes in the mind
+come very suddenly—he will see into the soul of Gaul. For the converse
+task, to-day not equally difficult but once almost impossible, of
+presenting England to the French intelligence—or, indeed, to any other
+alien intelligence—you may choose the play “King Lear.”
+
+That play has every quality which does reflect the soul of the
+community in which and for which it was written. Note a few in their
+order.
+
+First, it is not designed to its end; at least it is not designed
+accurately to its end; it is written as a play and it is meant to be
+acted as a play, and it is the uniform opinion of those versed in plays
+and in acting that in its full form it could hardly be presented, while
+in any form it is the hardest even of Shakespeare’s plays to perform.
+Here you have a parallel with a thousand mighty English things to which
+you can turn. Is there not institution after institution to decide on,
+so lacking a complete fitness to its end, larger in a way than the end
+it is to serve, and having, as it were, a life of its own which
+proceeds apart from its effect? This quality which makes so many
+English things growths rather than instruments is most evident in the
+great play.
+
+Again, it has that quality which Voltaire noted, which he thought
+abnormal in Shakespeare, but which is the most national characteristic
+in him, that a sort of formlessness, if it mars the framework of the
+thing and spoils it, yet also permits the exercise of an immeasurable
+vitality. When a man has read “King Lear” and lays down the book he is
+like one who has been out in one of those empty English uplands in a
+storm by night. It is written as though the pen bred thoughts. It is
+possible to conjecture as one reads, and especially in the diatribes,
+that the pen itself was rapid and the brain too rapid for the pen. One
+feels the rush of the air. Now, this quality is to be discovered in the
+literature of many nations, but never with the fullness which it has in
+the literature of England. And note that in those phases of the
+national life when foreign models have constrained this instinct of
+expansion in English verse, they never have restrained it for long, and
+that even through the bonds established by those models the instinct of
+expansion breaks. You see it in the exuberance of Dryden and in the
+occasional running rhetoric of Pope, until it utterly loosens itself
+with the end of the eighteenth century.
+
+The play is national, again, in that permanent curiosity upon knowable
+things—nay, that mysterious half-knowledge of unknowable things—which,
+in its last forms, produced the mystic, and which is throughout history
+so plainly characteristic of these Northern Atlantic islands. Every
+play of Shakespeare builds with that material, and no writer, even of
+the English turn, has sent out points further into the region of what
+is not known than Shakespeare has in sudden flashes of phrase. But
+“King Lear,” though it contains a lesser number of lines of this
+mystical and half-religious effect than, say, “Hamlet,” yet as a
+general impression is the more mystical of the two plays. The element
+of madness, which in “Hamlet” hangs in the background like a
+storm-cloud ready to break, in “King Lear” rages; and it is the use of
+this which lends its amazing psychical power to the play. It has been
+said (with no great profundity of criticism) that English fiction is
+chiefly remarkable for its power of particularization of character, and
+that where French work, for instance, will present ideas, English will
+present persons. The judgment is grossly insufficient, and therefore
+false, but it is based upon a proof which is very salient in English
+letters, which is that, say, in quite short and modern work the sense
+of complete unity deadens the English mind. The same nerve which
+revolts at a straight road and at a code of law revolts against one
+tone of thought, and the sharp contrast of emotional character, not the
+dual contrast which is common to all literatures, but the multiple
+contrast, runs through “King Lear” and gives the work such a tone that
+one seems as one reads it to be moving in a cloud.
+
+The conclusion is perhaps Shakespearean rather than English, and in a
+fashion escapes from any national labelling. But the note of silence
+which Shakespeare suddenly brings in upon the turmoil, and with which
+he is so fond of completing what he has done, would not be possible
+were not that spirit of expansion and of a kind of literary
+adventurousness present in all that went before.
+
+It is indeed this that makes the play so memorable. And it may not be
+fantastic to repeat and expand what has been said above in other words,
+namely, that King Lear has something about him which seems to be a
+product of English landscape and of English weather, and if its general
+movement is a storm its element is one of those sudden silences that
+come sometimes with such magical rapidity after the booming of the
+wind.
+
+
+
+
+The Excursion
+
+
+It is so old a theme that I really hesitate to touch it; and yet it is
+so true and so useful that I will. It is true all the time, and it is
+particularly useful at this season of the year to men in cities: to all
+repetitive men: to the men that read these words. What is more, true as
+it is and useful as it is, no amount of hammering at people seems to
+get this theme into their practice; though it has long ago entered into
+their convictions they will not act upon it in their summers. And this
+true and useful theme is the theme of little freedoms and discoveries,
+the value of getting loose and away by a small trick when you want to
+get your glimpse of Fairyland.
+
+Now how does one get loose and away?
+
+When a man says to himself that he must have a holiday he means that he
+must see quite new things that are also old: he desires to open that
+door which stood wide like a window in childhood and is now shut fast.
+But where are the new things that are also the old? Paradoxical fellows
+who deserve drowning tell one that they are at our very doors. Well,
+that is true of the eager mind, but the mind is no longer eager when it
+is in need of a holiday. And you can get at the new things that are
+also the old by way of drugs, but drugs are a poor sort of holiday
+fabric. If you have stored up your memory well with much experience you
+can get these things from your memory—but only in a pale sort of way.
+
+I think the best avenue to recreation by the magical impressions of the
+world upon the mind is this: To go to some place to which the common
+road leads you and then to get just off the common road. You will be
+astonished to find how strange the world becomes in the first mile—and
+how strange it remains till the common road is reached again.
+
+It always sounds like a mockery for a man who has travelled to a great
+many places, as I have, to advise his fellows to travel abroad; they
+are most of them hard tied. Yet it is really a much easier thing than
+men bound to the desk and the workshop understand. Britain is but one
+great port, and its inward seas are narrow—and the fares are
+ridiculously low. If you are a young man you can go almost anywhere for
+almost anything, sitting up by night on deck, and not expecting too
+much courtesy. But, of course, if you shirk the sea you are a prisoner.
+
+Well, then, supposing you abroad, or even in some other part of this
+highly varied kingdom in which you live, and supposing you to have
+reached some chosen place by some common road—what I desire to dilate
+upon here is the truth which every little excursion of business or of
+leisure (and precious few of leisure) makes me more certain of every
+day: That just a little way off the road is fairyland.
+
+It was exactly three days ago that I had occasion to go down the
+railway line that is the most frequented in Europe: I was on business,
+not leisure, but in the business I had two days’ leisure, and I did
+what I would advise all other men to do in such a circumstance.
+
+I took a train to nowhere, fixing my starting-point thus:—
+
+I first looked at the map and saw where nearest to me was a
+quadrilateral bare of railways. This formula, to look for a
+quadrilateral bare of railways, is a very useful formula for the man
+who is seeking another world. Then I fixed at random upon one little
+roadside station upon the main line; I determined to get out there and
+to walk aimlessly and westward until I should strike the other side of
+the quadrilateral. I made no plan, not even of the hours of the day.
+
+I came into my roadside station at half-past eight of the long summer
+night, broad daylight that is, but with night advancing. I got out and
+began my westward march. At once there crowded upon me any number of
+unexpected and entertaining things!
+
+The first thing I found was a street which was used by horses as well
+as by men, and yet was made up of broad steps. It was a sort of
+stair-case going up a hill. At the top of it I found a woman leading a
+child by the hand. I asked her the name of the steps. She told me they
+were called “The Steps of St. John.”
+
+A quarter of a mile further down the narrow lane I saw to my
+astonishment an enormous castle, ruined and open to the sky. There are
+many such ruins famous in Europe, but of this one I had never even
+heard. I went lonely under the evening and looked at its main gate and
+saw on it a moulded escutcheon, carved, and the motto in French,
+“Henceforward,” which word made me think a great deal, but resolved no
+problem in my mind.
+
+I went on again westward as the darkness fell and saw what I had not
+seen before, though my reading had told me of its existence, a long
+line of trees marking a ridge on the horizon, which line was the border
+of that ancient road the Roman soldiers built leading from the west
+into Amiens. “Along that road,” thought I, “St. Martin rode before he
+became a monk, and while he was yet a soldier and was serving under
+Julian the Apostate. Along that road he came to the west gate of Amiens
+and there cut his cloak in two and gave the half of it to a beggar.”
+
+The memory of St. Martin’s deed entertained me for some miles of my
+way, and I remembered how, when I was a child, it had seemed to me
+ridiculous to cut your coat in two whether for a beggar or for anybody
+else. Not that I thought charity ridiculous—God forbid!—but that a coat
+seemed to me a thing you could not cut in two with any profit to the
+user of either half. You might cut it in latitude and turn it into an
+Eton jacket and a kilt, neither of much use to a Gallo-Roman beggar. Or
+you might cut it in meridian and leave but one sleeve: mere folly.
+
+Considering these things, I went on over the rolling plateau. I saw a
+great owl flying before me against the sky, different from the owls of
+home. I saw Jupiter shining above a cloud and Venus shining below one.
+The long light lingered in the north above the English sea. At last I
+came quite unexpectedly upon that delight and plaything of the French:
+a light railway, or steam tram such as that people build in great
+profusion to link up their villages and their streams. The road where I
+came upon it made a level crossing, and there was a hut there, and a
+woman living in it who kept the level crossing and warned the
+passers-by. She told me no more trains, or rather little trams, would
+pass that night, but that three miles further on I should come to a
+place called “The Mills of the Vidame.”
+
+Now the name “Vidame” reminded me that a “Vidame” was the lay protector
+of a Cathedral Chapter in feudal times, so the name gave me a renewed
+pleasure.
+
+But it was now near midnight, and when I came to this village I
+remembered how in similar night walks I had sometimes been refused
+lodging. When I got among the few houses all was dark. I found,
+however, in the darkness two young men, each bearing an enormous curled
+trumpet of the kind which the French call _cors de chasse_, that is,
+hunting horns, so I asked them where the inn was. They took me to it
+and woke up the hostess, who received us with oaths. This she did lest
+the young men with hunting horns should demand a commission. Her heart,
+however, was better than her mouth, and she put me up, but she charged
+me tenpence for my room, counting coffee in the morning, which was, I
+am sure, more than her usual rate.
+
+Next day I took the little steam tram away from the place and went on
+vaguely whither it should please God to take me, until the plateau
+changed and the light railway fell into a charming valley, and, seeing
+a town rooted therein, I got out and paid my fare and visited the town.
+In this town I went to church, as it was early morning (you must excuse
+the foible), and, coming out of church, I had an argument with a
+working man upon the matter of religion, in which argument, as I
+believe, I was the victor. I then went on north out of this town and
+came into a wood of enormous size. It was miles and miles across, and
+the trees were higher than anything I have seen outside of California.
+It was an enchanted wood. The sun shone down through a hundred feet of
+silence by little rounds between the leaves, and there was silence
+everywhere. In this wood I sojourned all day long, making slowly
+westward, till, in the very midst of it, I found a troubled man. He was
+a man of middle age, short, intelligent, fat, and weary. He said to me:
+
+“Have you noticed any special mark upon the trees? A white mark of the
+number 90?”
+
+“No,” said I. “Are there any wild boars in this forest?”
+
+“Yes,” he answered, “a few, but not of use. I am looking for trees
+marked in white with the number 90. I have paid a price for them, and I
+cannot find them.”
+
+I saluted him and went on my way. At last I came to an open clearing,
+where there was a town, and in the town I found a very delightful inn,
+where they would cook anything one felt inclined for, within reason,
+and charged one very moderately indeed. I have retained its name.
+
+By this time I was completely lost, and in the heart of Fairyland, when
+suddenly I remembered that everyone that strikes root in Fairyland
+loses something, at the least his love and at the worst his soul, and
+that it is a perilous business to linger there, so I asked them in that
+hotel how they worked it when they wanted to go west into the great
+towns. They put me into an omnibus, which charged me fourpence for a
+journey of some two miles. It took me, as Heaven ordained, to a common
+great railway, and that common great railway took me through the night
+to the town of Dieppe, which I have known since I could speak and
+before, and which was about as much of Fairyland to me as Piccadilly or
+Monday morning.
+
+Thus ended those two days, in which I had touched again the unknown
+places—and all that heaven was but two days, and cost me not fifty
+shillings.
+
+Excuse the folly of this.
+
+
+
+
+The Tide
+
+
+I wish I had been one of those men who first sailed beyond the Pillars
+of Hercules and first saw, as they edged northward along a barbarian
+shore, the slow swinging of the sea. How much, I wonder, did they think
+themselves enlarged? How much did they know that all the civilization
+behind them, the very ancient world of the Mediterranean, was something
+protected and enclosed from which they had escaped into an outer world?
+And how much did they feel that here they were now physically caught by
+the moving tides that bore them in the whole movement of things?
+
+For the tide is of that kind; and the movement of the sea four times
+daily back and forth is a consequence, a reflection, and a part of the
+ceaseless pulse and rhythm which animates all things made and which
+links what seems not living to what certainly lives and feels and has
+power over all movement of its own. The circuits of the planets stretch
+and then recede. Their ellipses elongate and flatten again to the
+semblance of circles. The Poles slowly nod once every many thousand
+years, there is a libration to the moon; and in all this vast
+harmonious process of come and go the units of it twirl and spin, and,
+as they spin, run more gravely in ordered procession round their
+central star: that star moves also to a beat, and all the stars of
+heaven move each in times of its own as well, and their movement is one
+thing altogether. Whoever should receive the mighty business moving in
+one ear would get the music of it in a perfect series of chords,
+superimposed the one upon the other, but not a tremble of them out of
+tune.
+
+The great scheme is not infinite, for were it infinite such rhythms
+could not be. It was made, and it moves in order to the scheme of its
+making without caprice, not wayward anywhere, but in and out and back
+and forth as to a figure set for it. It must be so, or these exact
+arrangements could not be.
+
+Now with this regulated breathing and expiration, playing itself out in
+a million ways and co-extensive with the universe of things, the tides
+keep time, and they alone of earthly things bring its actual force to
+our physical perception, to our daily life. We see the sea in movement
+and power before us heaving up whatever it may bear, and we feel in an
+immediate way its strong backward sagging when the rocks appear above
+it as it falls. We have our hand on the throb of the current turning in
+a salting river inland between green hills; we are borne upon it bodily
+as we sail, its movement kicks the tiller in our grasp, and the
+strength beneath us and around us, the rush and the compulsion of the
+stream, its silence and as it were its purpose, all represent to us,
+immediately and here, that immeasurable to and fro which rules the
+skies.
+
+When the Roman soldiers came marching northward with Caesar and first
+saw the shores of ocean: when, after that occupation of Gaul which has
+changed the world, they first mounted guard upon the quays of the Itian
+port under Gris-Nez, or the rocky inlets of the Veneti by St. Malo and
+the Breton reefs, they were appalled to see what for centuries chance
+traders and the few curious travellers, the men of Marseilles and of
+the islands, had seen before them. They saw in numbers and in a
+corporate way what hitherto individuals alone had seen; they saw the
+sea like a living thing, advancing and retreating in an ordered dance,
+alive with deep sighs and intakes, and ceaselessly proceeding about a
+work and a doing which seemed to be the very visible action of an
+unchanging will still pleased with calculated change. It was the
+presence of the Roman army upon the shores of the Channel which brought
+the Tide into the general conscience of Europe, and that experience, I
+think, was among the greatest, perhaps the greatest, of those new
+things which rushed upon the mind of the Empire when it launched itself
+by the occupation of Gaul.
+
+The tide, when it is mentioned in brief historical records of times
+long since, suddenly strikes one with vividness and with familiarity,
+so that the past is introduced at once, presented to us physically, and
+obtruded against our modern senses alive. I know of no other physical
+thing mentioned in this fashion, in chronicle or biography, which has
+so powerful an effect to restore the reality of a dead century.
+
+The Venerable Bede is speaking in one place of Southampton Water, in
+his ecclesiastical history, or, rather, of the Isle of Wight, whence
+those two Princes were baptized and died under Cadwalla. As the
+historian speaks of the place he says:
+
+“In this sea” (which is the Solent) “comes a double tide out of the
+seas which spring from the infinite ocean of the Arctic surrounding all
+Britain.”
+
+And he tells us how these double tides rush together and fight
+together, sweeping as they do round either side of the island by the
+Needles and by Spithead into the land-locked sheet within.
+
+Now that passage in Bede’s fourth book is more real to me than anything
+in all his chronicle, for in Southampton Water to-day the living thing
+which we still note as we sail is the double tide. You take a falling
+tide at the head of the water, near Southampton Town, and if you are
+not quick with your business it is checked in two hours and you meet a
+strange flood, the second flood, before you have rounded Calshott
+Castle.
+
+Then there is a Charter of Newcastle. Or, rather, the inviolable
+Customs of that town, very old, drawn up nearly eight hundred years
+ago, but beginning from far earlier; and in these customs you find
+written:
+
+“If a plea shall arise between a burgess and a merchant it must be
+determined before the third flowing of the sea”—that is, within three
+tides; a wise provision! For thus the merchant would not miss the last
+tide of the day after the quarrel. How living it is, a phrase of that
+sort coming in the midst of those other phrases!
+
+All the rest, worse luck, has gone. Burgage-tenure, and the economic
+independence of the humble, and the busy, healthy life of men working
+to enrich themselves, not others, and that corporate association which
+was the blood of the Middle Ages, and the power of popular opinion,
+and, in general, freedom. But out of all these things that have
+perished, the tide remains, and in the eighteen clauses of the Customs,
+the tidal clause alone stands fresh and still has meaning. The capital,
+great clinching clause by which men owned their own land within the
+town has gone utterly and altogether. The modern workman on the Tyne
+would not understand you perhaps, to whom in that very place you should
+say, “Many centuries ago the men that came before you here, your
+fathers, were not working precariously at a wage, or paying rent to
+others, but living under their own roofs and working for themselves.”
+There is only one passage in the document that all could understand in
+Newcastle to-day—the very few rich who are hardly secure, the myriads
+of poor who are not secure at all—and that passage is the passage which
+talks of the third tide; for even to-day there is some good we have
+left undestroyed and the sea still ebbs and flows.
+
+This little note of the Newcastle men, and of the flowing and the
+ebbing of their sea, is to be found, you say, in the archives of
+England? Not at all! It is to be found in the Acts of the Parliament of
+Scotland—at least, so my book assures me, but why I do not know.
+Perhaps of the times when between Tyne and Tees, men looked northward
+and of the times when they looked southward (for they alternately did
+one and the other during many hundreds of years) those times when they
+looked northward seemed the more natural to them. Anyhow, the reference
+is to the Acts of the Parliament of Scotland, and that is the end of
+it.
+
+
+
+
+On a Great Wind
+
+
+It is an old dispute among men, or rather a dispute as old as mankind,
+whether Will be a cause of things or no; nor is there anything novel in
+those moderns who affirm that Will is nothing to the matter, save their
+ignorant belief that their affirmation is new.
+
+The intelligent process whereby I know that Will not seems but is, and
+can alone be truly and ultimately a cause, is fed with stuff and
+strengthens sacramentally as it were, whenever I meet, and am made the
+companion of, a great wind.
+
+It is not that this lively creature of God is indeed perfected with a
+soul; this it would be superstition to believe. It has no more a person
+than any other of its material fellows, but in its vagary of way, in
+the largeness of its apparent freedom, in its rush of purpose, it seems
+to mirror the action of mighty spirit. When a great wind comes roaring
+over the eastern flats towards the North Sea, driving over the Fens and
+the Wringland, it is like something of this island that must go out and
+wrestle with the water, or play with it in a game or a battle; and
+when, upon the western shores, the clouds come bowling up from the
+horizon, messengers, outriders, or comrades of a gale, it is something
+of the sea determined to possess the land. The rising and falling of
+such power, its hesitations, its renewed violence, its fatigue and
+final repose—all these are symbols of a mind; but more than all the
+rest, its exultation! It is the shouting and the hurrahing of the wind
+that suits a man.
+
+Note you, we have not many friends. The older we grow and the better we
+can sift mankind, the fewer friends we count, although man lives by
+friendship. But a great wind is every man’s friend, and its strength is
+the strength of good-fellowship; and even doing battle with it is
+something worthy and well chosen. If there is cruelty in the sea, and
+terror in high places, and malice lurking in profound darkness, there
+is no one of these qualities in the wind, but only power. Here is
+strength too full for such negations as cruelty, as malice, or as fear;
+and that strength in a solemn manner proves and tests health in our own
+souls. For with terror (of the sort I mean—terror of the abyss or panic
+at remembered pain, and in general, a losing grip of the succours of
+the mind), and with malice, and with cruelty, and with all the forms of
+that Evil which lies in wait for men, there is the savour of disease.
+It is an error to think of such things as power set up in equality
+against justice and right living. We were not made for them, but rather
+for influences large and soundly poised; we are not subject to them but
+to other powers that can always enliven and relieve. It is health in
+us, I say, to be full of heartiness and of the joy of the world, and of
+whether we have such health our comfort in a great wind is a good test
+indeed. No man spends his day upon the mountains when the wind is out,
+riding against it or pushing forward on foot through the gale, but at
+the end of his day feels that he has had a great host about him. It is
+as though he had experienced armies. The days of high winds are days of
+innumerable sounds, innumerable in variation of tone and of intensity,
+playing upon and awakening innumerable powers in man. And the days of
+high wind are days in which a physical compulsion has been about us and
+we have met pressure and blows, resisted and turned them; it enlivens
+us with the simulacrum of war by which nations live, and in the just
+pursuit of which men in companionship are at their noblest.
+
+It is pretended sometimes (less often perhaps now than a dozen years
+ago) that certain ancient pursuits congenial to man will be lost to him
+under his new necessities; thus men sometimes talk foolishly of horses
+being no longer ridden, houses no longer built of wholesome wood and
+stone, but of metal; meat no more roasted, but only baked; and even of
+stomachs grown too weak for wine. There is a fashion of saying these
+things, and much other nastiness. Such talk is (thank God!) mere folly;
+for man will always at last tend to his end, which is happiness, and he
+will remember again to do all those things which serve that end. So it
+is with the uses of the wind, and especially the using of the wind with
+sails.
+
+No man has known the wind by any of its names who has not sailed his
+own boat and felt life in the tiller. Then it is that a man has most to
+do with the wind, plays with it, coaxes or refuses it, is wary of it
+all along; yields when he must yield, but comes up and pits himself
+again against its violence; trains it, harnesses it, calls it if it
+fails him, denounces it if it will try to be too strong, and in every
+manner conceivable handles this glorious playmate.
+
+As for those who say that men did but use the wind as an instrument for
+crossing the sea, and that sails were mere machines to them, either
+they have never sailed or they were quite unworthy of sailing. It is
+not an accident that the tall ships of every age of varying fashions so
+arrested human sight and seemed so splendid. The whole of man went into
+their creation, and they expressed him very well; his cunning, and his
+mastery, and his adventurous heart. For the wind is in nothing more
+capitally our friend than in this, that it has been, since men were
+men, their ally in the seeking of the unknown and in their divine
+thirst for travel which, in its several aspects—pilgrimage, conquest,
+discovery, and, in general, enlargement—is one prime way whereby man
+fills himself with being.
+
+I love to think of those Norwegian men who set out eagerly before the
+north-east wind when it came down from their mountains in the month of
+March like a god of great stature to impel them to the West. They
+pushed their Long Keels out upon the rollers, grinding the shingle of
+the beach at the fjord-head. They ran down the calm narrows, they
+breasted and they met the open sea. Then for days and days they drove
+under this master of theirs and high friend, having the wind for a sort
+of captain, and looking always out to the sea line to find what they
+could find. It was the springtime; and men feel the spring upon the sea
+even more surely than they feel it upon the land. They were men whose
+eyes, pale with the foam, watched for a landfall, that unmistakable
+good sight which the wind brings us to, the cloud that does not change
+and that comes after the long emptiness of sea days like a vision after
+the sameness of our common lives. To them the land they so discovered
+was wholly new.
+
+We have no cause to regret the youth of the world, if indeed the world
+were ever young. When we imagine in our cities that the wind no longer
+calls us to such things, it is only our reading that blinds us, and the
+picture of satiety which our reading breeds is wholly false. Any man
+to-day may go out and take his pleasure with the wind upon the high
+seas. He also will make his landfalls to-day, or in a thousand years;
+and the sight is always the same, and the appetite for such discoveries
+is wholly satisfied even though he be only sailing, as I have sailed,
+over seas that he has known from childhood, and come upon an island far
+away, mapped and well known, and visited for the hundredth time.
+
+
+
+
+The Letter
+
+
+If you ask me why it is now three weeks since I received your letter
+and why it is only today that I answer it, I must tell you the truth
+lest further things I may have to tell you should not be worthy of your
+dignity or of mine. It was because at first I dared not, then later I
+reasoned with myself, and so bred delay, and at last took refuge in
+more delay. I will offer no excuse: I will not tell you that I suffered
+illness, or that some accident of war had taken me away from this old
+house, or that I have but just returned from a journey to my hill and
+my view over the Plain and the great River.
+
+Your messenger I have kept, and I have entertained him well. I looked
+at him a little narrowly at his first coming, thinking perhaps he might
+be a gentleman of yours, but I soon found that he was not such, and
+that he bore no disguise, but was a plain rider of your household. I
+put him in good quarters by the Hunting Stables. He has had nothing to
+do but to await my resolution, which is now at last taken, and which
+you receive in this.
+
+But how shall I begin, or how express to you what not distance but a
+slow and bitter conclusion of the mind has done?
+
+I shall not return to Meudon. I shall not see the woods, the summer
+woods turning to autumn, nor follow the hunt, nor take pleasure again
+in what is still the best of Europe at Versailles. And now that I have
+said it, you must read it so; for I am unalterably determined. Believe
+me, it is something much more deep than courtesy which compels me to
+give you my reasons for this final and irrevocable doom.
+
+We were children together. Though we leant so lightly in our
+conversations of this spring upon all we knew in common, I know your
+age and all your strong early experience—and you know mine. Your mother
+will recall that day’s riding when I came back from my first leave and
+you were home, not, I think, for good, from the convent. A fixed
+domestic habit blinded her, so that she could then still see in us no
+more than two children; yet I was proud of my sword, and had it on, and
+you that day were proud of a beauty which could no longer be hidden
+even from yourself; I would then have sacrificed, and would now, all I
+had or was or had or am to have made that beauty immortal.
+
+I say, you remember that day’s riding, and how after it the world was
+changed for you and me, and how that same evening the elders saw that
+it was changed.
+
+You will remember that for two years we were not allowed to meet again.
+When the two years were passed we met indeed by a mere accident of that
+rich and tedious life wherein we were both now engaged. I was returned
+from leave before Tournay; you had heard, I think, a false report that
+I had been wounded in the dreadful business at Fontenoy (which to
+remember even now horrifies me a little). I had heard and knew which of
+the great names you now bore by marriage. The next day it was your
+husband who rode with me to Marly. I liked him well enough. I have
+grown to like him better. He is an honest man, though I confess his
+philosophers weary me. When I say “an honest man” I am giving the
+highest praise I know.
+
+My dear, that was sixteen years ago.
+
+You may not even now understand, so engrossing is the toilsome and
+excited ritual of that rich world at Versailles, how blest you are:
+your children are growing round you: your daughters are beginning to
+reveal your own beauty, and your sons will show in these next years
+immediately before us that temper which in you was a spirit and a
+height of being, and in them, men, will show as plain courage. During
+that long space of years your house has remained well ordered (it was
+your husband’s doing). His great fortune and yours have jointly
+increased: if I may tell you so, it is a pleasure to all who understand
+fitness to know that this is so, and that your lineage and his will
+hold so great a place in the State.
+
+As you review those sixteen years you may, if you will—I trust you will
+not—recall those occasions when I saw the woods of Meudon and mixed by
+chance with your world, and when we renewed the rides which had ended
+our childhood. As for me I have not to recall those things. They are,
+alas, myself, and beyond them there is nothing that I can call a memory
+or a being at all. Nevertheless, as I have told you, I shall not come
+to Meudon: I shall not hear again the delightful voices of those many
+friends (now in mid-life as am I) who are my equals at Versailles. I
+shall not see your face.
+
+I did not take service with the Empire from any pique or folly, but
+from a necessity for adventure and for the refounding of my house. It
+might have chanced that I should marry: the land demanded an heir. My
+impoverishment weighed upon me like an ill deed, for all this belt of
+land is dependent upon the old house, which I can with such difficulty
+retain and from which I write to-day. I spent all those years in the
+service of the Empire (and even of Russia) from no uncertain temper and
+from no imaginary quarrel. It is so common or so necessary for men and
+women to misjudge each other that I believe you thought me wayward, or
+at least unstable. If you did so you did me a wrong. Those two good
+seasons when we met again, and this last of but a month ago, were not
+accidents or fitful recoveries. They were all I possessed in my life
+and all that will perish with me when I die.
+
+But now, to tell you the very core of my decision, it is this: The
+years that pass carry with them an increasing weight at once sombre and
+majestic. There are things belonging to youth which habit continues
+strangely longer than the season to which they properly belong: if,
+when we discover them to be too prolonged as cling to their survival,
+why, then, we eat dust. So long as we possess the illusion and so long
+as the dearest things of youth maintain unchanged, in one chamber of
+our life at least, our twentieth year, so long all is well. But there
+is a cold river which we must pass in our advance towards nothingness
+and age. In the passage of that stream we change: and you and I have
+passed it. There is no more endurance in that young mood of ours than
+in any other human thing. One always wakes from it at last. One sees
+what it is. The soul sees and counts with hard eyes the price at which
+a continuance of such high dreams must be purchased, and the heart has
+a prevision of the evil that the happy cheat will work as maturity is
+reached by each of us, and as each of us fully takes on the burden of
+the world.
+
+Therefore I must not return.
+
+Foolishly and without thinking of real things, acting as though indeed
+that life of dream and of illusion were still possible to me, I
+yesterday cut with great care a rose, one from the many that have now
+grown almost wild upon the great wall overlooking the Danube. Then ...
+I could not but smile to myself when I remembered how by the time that
+rose should have reached you every petal would be wasted and fallen in
+the long week’s ride. There is a fixed term of life for roses also as
+for men. I do not cite this to you by way of parable. I have no heart
+for tricks of the pen to-night; but the two images came together, and
+you will understand. If I do not return, it is for the same reason that
+I could not send the rose.
+
+
+
+
+The Regret
+
+
+Everybody knows, I suppose, that kind of landscape in which hills seem
+to lie in a regular manner, fold on fold, one range behind the other,
+until, at last, behind them all some higher and grander range dominates
+and frames the whole.
+
+The infinite variety of light and air and accident of soil provide all
+men save those who live in the great plains with examples of this sort.
+The traveller in the dry air of California or of Spain, watching great
+distances from the heights, will recollect such landscapes all his
+life. They were the reward of his long ascents and the visions which
+attended his effort as he climbed up to the ridge of his horizon. Such
+a landscape does a man see from the Western edges of the Guadarrama,
+looking eastward and south toward the very distant hills that guard
+Toledo and the Gulf of the Tagus. Such a landscape does a man see at
+sunrise from the highest of the Cevennes looking right eastward to the
+dawn as it comes up in the pure and cold air beyond the Alps, and shows
+you the falling of the foothills to the Rhone. And by such a landscape
+is a man gladdened when upon the escarpments of the Tuolumne he turns
+back and looks westward over the plain towards the vast range.
+
+The experience of such a sight is one peculiar in travel, or, for that
+matter, if a man is lucky enough to enjoy it at home, insistent and
+reiterated upon the mind of the home-dwelling man. Such a landscape,
+for instance, makes a man praise God if his house is upon the height of
+Mendip, and he can look over falling hills right over the Vale of
+Severn toward the ridge above ridge of the Welsh solemnities beyond,
+until the straight line and high of the Black Mountains ends his view.
+
+It is the character of these landscapes to suggest at once a vastness,
+diversity, and seclusion. When a man comes upon them unexpectedly he
+can forget the perpetual toil of men and imagine that those who dwell
+below in the near side before him are exempt from the necessities of
+this world. When such a landscape is part of a man’s dwelling-place,
+though he well knows that the painful life of men within those hills is
+the same hard business that it is throughout the world, yet his
+knowledge is modified and comforted by the permanent glory of the thing
+he sees.
+
+The distant and high range that bounds his view makes a sort of
+veiling, cutting it off and guarding it from whatever may be beyond.
+The succession of lower ranges suggests secluded valleys, and the
+reiterated woods, distant and more distant, convey an impression of
+fertility more powerful than that of corn in harvest upon the lowlands.
+
+Sometimes it is a whole province that is thus grasped by the eye,
+sometimes in the summer haze but a few miles; always this scenery
+inspires the onlooker with a sense of completion and of repose, and at
+the same time, I think, with worship and with awe.
+
+Now one such group of valleys there was, hill above hill, forest above
+forest, and beyond it a great noble range, unwooded and high against
+heaven, guarding it, which I for my part knew when first I knew
+anything of this world. There is a high place under fir trees, a place
+of sand and bracken, in South England whence such a view was always
+present to eye in childhood and “There,” said I to myself (even in
+childhood) “a man should make his habitation.” In those valleys is the
+proper off-set for man.
+
+And so there was.
+
+It was a little place which had grown up as my county grows. The house
+throwing out arms and layers. One room was panelled in the oak of the
+seventeenth century—but that had been a novelty in its time, for the
+walls upon which the panels stood were of the late fifteenth, oak and
+brick intermingled. Another room was large and light built in the
+manner of one hundred and fifty years ago, which people call Georgian.
+It had been thrown out south (which is quite against our older custom,
+for our older houses looked east and west to take all the sun and to
+present a corner to the south-west and the storms. So they stand
+still). It had round it a solid cornice which the modern men of the
+towns would have called ugly, but there was ancestry in it. Then,
+further on this house had modern roominess stretching in one new wing
+after another; and it had a great steading and there was a copse and
+some six acres of land. Over a deep ravine looked the little town that
+was the mother of the place, and altogether it was enclosed, silent,
+and secure.
+
+“The fish that misses the hook regrets the worm.” If this is not a
+Chinese proverb it ought to be. That little farm and steading and those
+six acres, that ravine, those trees, that aspect of the little
+mothering town; the wooded hills fold above fold, the noble range
+beyond, will not be mine.
+
+For all I know, some man quite unacquainted with that land took them
+grumbling for a debt; or again, for all I know, they may have been
+bought by a blind man who could not see the hills, or by some man who,
+seeing them, perpetually regretted the flat marshes of the fens. One
+day, up high on Egdean Side, not thinking of such things, through a gap
+in the trees I saw again after so many years, set one behind the other,
+the forests wave upon wave, the summer heat, the high, bare range
+guarding all, and in the midst of that landscape, set like a toy, the
+little Sabine Farm.
+
+Then I said to it, “Continue. Go and serve whom you will, my little
+Sabine Farm. You were not mine because you would not be, and you are
+not mine at all to-day. You will regret it perhaps, and perhaps you
+will not. There was verse in you, perhaps, or prose, or—infinitely
+more!—contentment for a man (for all I know). But you refused. You lost
+your chance. Goodbye.” And with that I went on into the wood and beyond
+the gap, and saw the sight no more.
+
+It was ten years since I had seen it last. It may be ten years before I
+see it again, or it may be for ever. But as I went through the woods
+saying to myself:
+
+“You lost your chance, my little Sabine Farm, you lost your chance!”
+another part of me at once replied:
+
+“Ah! And so did _you_!”
+
+Then, by way of riposte, I answered in my mind:
+
+“Not at all, for the chance I never had, but what I lost was my
+desire.”
+
+“No, not your desire,” said the voice to me within, “but the fulfilment
+of it, in which you would have lost your desire.” And when that reply
+came I naturally turned as all men do on hearing such interior replies,
+to a general consideration of regret, and was prepared, if any honest
+publisher should have come whistling through that wood, with an offer
+proper to the occasion, namely, to produce no less than five volumes on
+the Nature of Regret, its mortal sting, its bitter-sweetness, its power
+to keep alive in man the pure passions of the soul, its hints at
+immortality, its memory of Heaven. But the wood was empty of
+publishers. The offer did not come. The moment was lost. The five
+volumes will hardly now be written. In place of them I offer poor this,
+which you may take or leave. But I beg leave before I end to cite
+certain words very nobly attached to that great inn “The Griffin,”
+which has its foundation set far off in another place, in the town of
+March, in the Fen Land:
+
+“England my desire, what have you not refused?”
+
+
+
+
+The End Of The World
+
+
+One day I met a man who was sitting quite silent near Whitney, in the
+Thames Valley, in a very large, long, low inn that stands in those
+parts, or at least stood then, for whether it stands now or not depends
+upon the Fussyites, whose business it is to Fuss, and in their Fussing
+to disturb mankind.
+
+He had nothing to say for himself at all, and he looked not gloomy but
+sad. He was tall and thin, with high cheekbones. His face was the
+colour of leather that has been some time in the weather, and he
+despised us altogether: he would not say a word to us, until one of the
+company said, rising from his meat and drink: “Very well, there’s a
+thing we shall never know till the end of the world” (he was talking
+about some discussion or other which the young men had been holding
+together). “There’s a thing we shall never know till the end of the
+world—and about that nobody knows!”
+
+“You will pardon me,” said the tall, thin, and elderly man with a face
+like leather that has been exposed to the weather, “I know about the
+End of the World, for I have been there.”
+
+This was so interesting that we all sat down again to listen.
+
+“I wasn’t talking of place, but of time,” murmured the young man whom
+the stranger had answered.
+
+“I cannot help that,” said the stranger decisively; “the End of the
+World is the End of the World, and whether you are talking of space or
+of time it does not matter, for when you have got to the end you have
+got to the end, as may be proved in several ways.”
+
+“How did you get to it?” said one of our companions.
+
+“That is very simply answered,” said the elder man; “you get to it by
+walking straight in front of you.”
+
+“Anyone could do that,” said the other.
+
+“Anyone could,” said the elder man, “but nobody does. I did.... When I
+was quite a boy in my father’s parsonage (for my father was a parson),
+having heard so much about the End of the World and seeing that
+people’s descriptions of it differed so much and that everybody was
+quite sure of his own, I used to take my father’s friends and guests
+aside privately, for I was afraid to take my father himself, and I used
+to ask them how they knew what the End of the World was really like,
+and whether they had seen it. Some laughed, others were silent, and
+others were angry; but no one gave me any information. At last I
+decided (and it was very wise of me) that the only way to find out a
+thing of that sort was to find it out for one’s self, and not to go by
+hearsay, so I determined to go straight on without stopping until I got
+to the End of the World.”
+
+“Which way did you walk?” said yet another of my companions.
+
+“Young man,” said the stranger, with solemnity, “I walked westward
+toward the setting sun ... I walked and I walked and I walked, day
+after day and year after year. Whenever I came to the seacoast I would
+take work on board a ship—and remember it is always easy to get work if
+you will take the wages that are offered, and always difficult to get
+it if you will not. Well, then, I went in this way through all known
+lands and over all known seas, until at last I came to the shore of a
+sea beyond which (so the people told me who lived there) there was no
+further shore. ‘I cannot help that,’ said I; ‘I have not yet come to
+the End of the World, and it is common sense that such a lot of water
+must have something at the back of it to hold it up; besides which
+there is a strong wind blowing out of the gates of the west and from
+the sunset. Now that wind must rise somewhere, and I am going on to see
+where it rises.’ One of them was kind enough to lend me a boat with
+oars; I thanked him prettily, and then I set out to row toward the End
+of the World, taking with me two or three days’ provisions.
+
+“When I had rowed a long time I went asleep, and when I woke up next
+morning I rowed again all day until the second night I went to sleep.
+On the third day I rowed again: a little before sunset on the third day
+I saw before me high hills, all in peaks like a great saw. On the very
+highest of the peaks there were streaks of snow, and at about six
+o’clock in the afternoon I grounded my boat upon that gravelly shore
+and pulled it up upon the shingle, though it was evident either that
+the tide was high or that there was no tide in these silent places.
+
+“I offered up a prayer to the genius of the land, and tied the painter
+of the boat to two great stones, so that no wave reaching it might move
+it, and then I went on inland. When I had gone a little way I saw a
+signpost on which was written, ‘To the End of the World One Mile’ and
+there was a rough track along which it pointed. I went along this
+track. Everything was completely silent. There were no birds, there was
+no wind, there was nothing in the sky. But one thing I did notice,
+which was that the sun was much larger than it used to be, and that as
+I went along this last mile or so it seemed to get larger still—but
+that may have been my imagination, for I must tell you my imagination
+is pretty strong.
+
+“Well then, gentlemen, when I had gone a mile or so I saw another
+signpost, on which there was a large board marked ‘Danger,’ and a
+hundred yards beyond the track went between two great dark rocks—and
+there I was! The road had stopped short; it was broken off, jagged,
+just like a torn bit of paper ... and there was the End of the World.”
+
+“How do you mean?” said one of the younger men in an awed tone.
+
+“What I say,” said the stranger decidedly. “I had come to the end;
+there was nothing beyond. You looked down over a precipice where there
+was moss and steep grass, and on the ledges trees far below, and then
+more precipice, and then—oh, miles below—a few more trees or so
+clinging to the steep, then more precipice, and then darkness; and far
+away before me was the whole expanse of sky; and in the midst of it I
+saw the broad red sun setting into the brume; it was not yet dark
+enough to see the stars, and there was no moon in the sky.
+
+“I assure you it was a very wonderful sight, and I was awed though I
+was not afraid. And how glad I was to find that the world had an edge
+to it, and that all that talk about its being round was nonsense!
+
+“When the sun was set it grew dark, and I returned to find my boat; but
+I must have missed my way, for the track became broader and better, and
+at last I came to a gate of a human sort, with an initial on it, which
+showed that it had been put up by some landlord. It was an open gate,
+and after I had entered it I came upon a broad highway, beautifully
+metalled, and when I had gone along this for less than half a mile I
+came to this inn where I am now sitting. That was a week ago, and I
+have been here ever since. They took me in kindly enough, but they
+would not believe what I had to tell them about the End of the World.
+It is a great pity, gentlemen, for that wonderful sight is to be
+discovered somewhere hereabouts, and a mere accident of my losing my
+way in the darkness makes it difficult for me to find it by daylight.”
+
+Having said all this, the stranger was silent.
+
+One of my companions whispered to me that the old man must be mad. The
+stranger overheard him, and said with a thin smile:
+
+“Oh, I know all about that; several have suggested it already; but it
+is no answer, for if I did not come from the End of the World, where
+did I come from? No one has seen me hereabouts during the last few days
+until I came to this inn. And all the first part of my journey I can
+very easily explain, for I have notes of it, and it lasted for years.
+It is only this last part which seems to me so difficult.... I tell you
+I lost my way, and when a man has lost his way at night he can never
+find it again in the daytime.”
+
+As he spoke he took a little piece of folded paper, rather dirty, out
+of his inner pocket, on which a rough sketch-map was drawn, and he
+began touching it with a stump of pencil that he held in his hand. His
+eyes seemed to grow dimmer as he did so, and he leaned his head upon
+his hand. “I think I have got hold of it, gentlemen,” he said.
+
+We did not get up or go too near him, for we thought he might be
+dangerous.
+
+“I think, gentlemen,” he repeated in a more mumbling and lower and less
+certain voice, “I think I have got hold of it. I go backwards again
+through the gate to the right, just as then I went to the left, and
+after that it cannot be very far, for I see those two rocks in front of
+me. Besides which,” he muttered less and less coherently, “I ought to
+have remembered of course those very high and silent hills with nothing
+living upon them....” And he added, half asleep, as his head dropped
+upon his hand, “It was westward.... I had forgotten that.”
+
+Having so spoken, he seemed to fall asleep altogether, and his head
+fell back upon the corner of the wainscoting behind the bench where he
+sat. He made no noise in breathing as he slept.
+
+It was the first time that any of us young men had come across this
+fairly common sight of a man who took things within for things without;
+some of us were frightened, and all of us wished to be rid of the place
+and to get away. As we went out we told the landlord nothing either of
+the old fellow’s vagaries or of his sleep, but we went out and reached
+the town of Whitney, and when we had stayed there a couple of hours or
+so we went out southward to the station and waited there for the train
+which should take us back to Oxford.
+
+While we were waiting there in the station two farmers were talking
+together. One said to the other:
+
+“Ar, if he’d paid them they wouldn’t have minded so much.”
+
+To which the other answered:
+
+“Ar, ’tisn’t only the paying: it’s always an awkward thing when a man
+dies in your house, specially if it’s licensed. My wife’s brother was
+caught that way.”
+
+Then as they went on talking we found that they were talking of the man
+in the inn, who it seems had not slept very long, but was dead, and had
+died in that same room. It was a shocking thing to hear. The first
+farmer said to the second in the railway carriage when we had all got
+in:
+
+“Where’d he come from?”
+
+The other, who was an old man, grinned and said:
+
+“Where we all come from, I suppose, and where we all go to.” He touched
+his forehead with his hand. “He said he’d come from the End of the
+World.”
+
+“Ar,” said the other gloomily in answer, “like enough!” And after that
+they talked no more about the matter.
+
+
+ [1] The Rhododendrons on the great lawn are modern.
+
+
+
+
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+<div style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of First and Last, by H. Belloc</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
+most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
+of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
+at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you
+are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the
+country where you are located before using this eBook.
+</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: First and Last</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: H. Belloc</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: April 19, 2003 [eBook #7352]<br />
+[Most recently updated: May 1, 2023]</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div>
+<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: Tonya Allen, Eric Eldred, Charles Franks, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team</div>
+<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST AND LAST ***</div>
+
+<h1>FIRST AND LAST</h1>
+
+<h2 class="no-break">BY H. BELLOC</h2>
+
+<hr />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<table summary="" style="">
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap01">ON WEIGHING ANCHOR</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap02">THE REVEILLON</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap03">ON CHEESES</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap04">THE CAPTAIN OF INDUSTRY</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap05">THE INVENTOR</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap06">THE VIEWS OF ENGLAND</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap07">THE LUNATIC</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap08">THE INHERITANCE OF HUMOUR</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap09">THE OLD GENTLEMAN’S OPINIONS</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap10">ON HISTORICAL EVIDENCE</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap11">THE ABSENCE OF THE PAST</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap12">ST. PATRICK</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap13">THE LOST THINGS</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap14">ON THE READING OF HISTORY</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap15">THE VICTORY</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap16">REALITY</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap17">ON THE DECLINE OF THE BOOK</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap18">JOSÉ MARIA DE HEREDIA</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap19">NORMANDY AND THE NORMANS</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap20">THE OLD THINGS</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap21">THE BATTLE OF HASTINGS</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap22">THE ROMAN ROADS IN PICARDY</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap23">THE REWARD OF LETTERS</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap24">THE EYE-OPENERS</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap25">THE PUBLIC</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap26">ON ENTRIES</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap27">COMPANIONS OF TRAVEL</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap28">ON THE SOURCES OF RIVERS</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap29">ON ERROR</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap30">THE GREAT SIGHT</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap31">THE DECLINE OF A STATE</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap32">ON PAST GREATNESS</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap33">MR. THE DUKE: THE MAN OF MALPLAQUET</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap34">THE GAME OF CARDS</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap35">“KING LEAR”</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap36">THE EXCURSION</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap37">THE TIDE</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap38">ON A GREAT WIND</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap39">THE LETTER</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap40">THE REGRET</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td> <a href="#chap41">THE END OF THE WORLD</a></td>
+</tr>
+
+</table>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2>FIRST AND LAST</h2>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap01">On Weighing Anchor</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Personally I should call it “Getting It up,” but I have always seen it in print
+called “weighing anchor”—and if it is in print one must bow to it. It does
+weigh.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There are many ways of doing it. The best, like all good things, has gone for
+ever, and this best way was for a thing called a capstan to have sticking out
+from it, movable, and fitted into its upper rim, other things called
+capstan-bars. These, men would push singing a song, while on the top of the
+capstan sat a man playing the fiddle, or the flute, or some other instrument of
+music. You and I have seen it in pictures. Our sons will say that they wish
+they had seen it in pictures. Our sons’ sons will say it is all a lie and was
+never in anything but the pictures, and they will explain it by some myth or
+other.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Another way is to take two turns of a rope round a donkey-engine, paying in and
+coiling while the engine clanks. And another way on smaller boats is a sort of
+jack arrangement by which you give little jerks to a ratchet and wheel, and at
+last It looses Its hold. Sometimes (in this last way) It will not loose Its
+hold at all.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then there is a way of which I proudly boast that it is the only way I know,
+which is to go forward and haul at the line until It comes—or does not come. If
+It does not come, you will not be so cowardly or so mean as to miss your tide
+for such a trifle. You will cut the line and tie a float on and pray Heaven
+that into whatever place you run, that place will have moorings ready and free.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When a man weighs anchor in a little ship or a large one he does a jolly thing!
+He cuts himself off and he starts for freedom and for the chance of things. He
+pulls the jib a-weather, he leans to her slowly pulling round, he sees the wind
+getting into the mainsail, and he feels that she feels the helm. He has her on
+a slant of the wind, and he makes out between the harbour piers. I am
+supposing, for the sake of good luck, that it is not blowing bang down the
+harbour mouth, nor, for the matter of that, bang out of it. I am supposing, for
+the sake of good luck to this venture, that in weighing anchor you have the
+wind so that you can sail with it full and by, or freer still, right past the
+walls until you are well into the tide outside. You may tell me that you are so
+rich and your boat is so big that there have been times when you have anchored
+in the very open, and that all this does not apply to you. Why, then, your
+thoughts do not apply to me nor to the little boat I have in mind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the weighing of anchor and the taking of adventure and of the sea there is
+an exact parallel to anything that any man can do in the beginning of any human
+thing, from his momentous setting out upon his life in early manhood to the
+least decision of his present passing day. It is a very proper emblem of a
+beginning. It may lead him to that kind of muddle and set-back which attaches
+only to beginnings, or it may get him fairly into the weather, and yet he may
+find, a little way outside, that he has to run for it, or to beat back to
+harbour. Or, more generously, it may lead him to a long and steady cruise in
+which he shall find profit and make distant rivers and continue to increase his
+log by one good landfall after another. But the whole point of weighing anchor
+is that he has chosen his weather and his tide, and that he is setting out. The
+thing is done.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You will very commonly observe that, in land affairs, if good fortune follows a
+venture it is due to the marvellous excellence of its conductor, but if ill
+fortune, then to evil chance alone. Now, it is not so with the sea.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sea drives truth into a man like salt. A coward cannot long pretend to be
+brave at sea, nor a fool to be wise, nor a prig to be a good companion, and any
+venture connected with the sea is full of venture and can pretend to be nothing
+more. Nevertheless there is a certain pride in keeping a course through
+different weathers, in making the best of a tide, in using cats’ paws in a dull
+race, and, generally, in knowing how to handle the thing you steer and to judge
+the water and the wind. Just because men have to tell the truth once they get
+into tide water, what little is due to themselves in their success thereon they
+are proud of and acknowledge.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If your sailing venture goes well, sailing reader, take a just pride in it;
+there will be the less need for me to write, some few years hence, upon the art
+of picking up moorings, though I confess I would rather have written on that so
+far as the fun of writing was concerned. For picking up moorings is a far more
+tricky and amusing business than Getting It up. It differs with every
+conceivable circumstance of wind, and tide, and harbour, and rig, and
+freeboard, and light; and then there are so many stories to tell about it!
+As—how once a poor man picked up a rich man’s moorings at Cowes and was visited
+by an aluminium boat, all splendid in the morning sun. Or again—how a stranger
+who had made Orford Haven (that very difficult place) on the very top of an
+equinoctial springtide, picked up a racing mark-buoy, taking it to be moorings,
+and dragged it with him all the way to Aldborough, and that right before the
+town of Orford, so making himself hateful to the Orford people.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But I digress....
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap02">The Reveillon</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+There was in the regiment with which I served a man called Frocot, famous with
+his comrades because he had seen The Dead, for this experience, though common
+among the Scotch, is rare among the French, a sister nation. This man Frocot
+could neither write nor read, and was also the strongest man I ever knew. He
+was quite short and exceedingly broad, and he could break a penny with his
+hands, but this gift of strength, though young men value it so much, was
+thought little of compared with his perception of unseen things, for though the
+men, who were peasants, professed to laugh at it, and him, in their hearts they
+profoundly believed. It had been made clear to us that he could see and hear
+The Dead one night in January during a snowstorm, when he came in and woke me
+in barrack-room because he had heard the Loose Spur. Our spurs were not buckled
+on like the officers’; they were fixed into the heel of the boot, and if a nail
+loosened upon either side the spur dragged with an unmistakable noise. There
+was a sergeant who (for some reason) had one so loosened on the last night he
+had ever gone the rounds before his death, for in the morning as he came off
+guard he killed himself, and the story went about among the drivers that
+sometimes on stable guard in the thick of the night, when you watched all alone
+by the lantern (with your three comrades asleep in the straw of an empty
+stall), your blood would stop and your skin tauten at the sound of a loose spur
+dragging on the far side of the stable, in the dark. But though many had heard
+the story, and though some had pretended to find proof for it, I never knew a
+man to feel and know it except this man Frocot on that night. I remember him at
+the foot of my bed with his lantern waking me from the rooted sleep of bodily
+fatigue, standing there in his dark blue driver’s coat and staring with
+terrible eyes. He had undoubtedly heard and seen, but whether of himself from
+within, imagining, or, as I rather believe, from without and influenced, it is
+impossible to say. He was rough and poor, and he came from the Forest of
+Ardennes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The reason I remember him and write of him at this season is not, however, this
+particular and dreadful visitation of his, but a folly or a vision that befell
+him at this time of the year, now seventeen years ago; for he had Christmas
+leave and was on his way from garrison to his native place, and he was walking
+the last miles of the wood. It was the night before Christmas. It was clear,
+and there was no wind, but the sky was overcast with level clouds and the
+evening was very dark. He started unfed since the first meal of the day; it was
+dark three hours before he was up into the high wood. He met no one during all
+these miles, and his body and his mind were lonely; he hoped to press on and be
+at his father’s door before two in the morning or perhaps at one. The night was
+so still that he heard no noise in the high wood, not even the rustling of a
+leaf or a twig crackling, and no animal ran in the undergrowth. The moss of the
+ride was silent under his heavy tread, but now and then the steel of his
+side-arm clicked against a metal button of the great cloak he wore. This sharp
+sound made him so conscious of himself that he seemed to fill that forest with
+his own presence and to be all that was, there or elsewhere. He was in a mood
+of unreal and not holy things. The mood, remaining, changed its aspect, and now
+he was so far from alone that all the trunks around him and the glimmers of sky
+between bare boughs held each a spirit of its own, and with the powerful
+imagination of the unlearned he could have spoken and held communion with the
+trees; but it would have an evil communion, for he felt this mood of his take
+on a further phase as he went deeper and deeper still into these forests. He
+felt about him uneasily the sense of doom. He was in that exaltation of fancy
+or dream when faint appeals are half heard far off, but not by our human ears,
+and when whatever attempts to pierce the armour of our mortality appeals to us
+by wailing and by despairing sighs. It seemed to him that most unhappy things
+passed near him in the air, and that the wood about him was full of sobbing.
+Then, again, he felt his own mind within him begin to be occupied by doubtful
+troubles worse than these terrors, an anxious straining for ill news, for
+bitter and dreadful news, mixed with a confused certitude that such news had
+come indeed, disturbed and haunted him; and all the while about him in that
+stillness the rushing of unhappy spirits went like a secret storm. He was
+clouded with the mingled emotions of apprehension and of fatal mourning; he
+attempted to remember the expectations that had failed him, friends untrue, and
+the names of parents dead; but he was now the victim of this strange night and
+unable (whether from hunger or fatigue, or from that unique power of his to
+discern things beyond the world) to remember his life or his definite aims at
+all, or even his own name. He was mixed with the whole universe about him, and
+was suffering some loss so grievous that very soon the gait of his march and
+his whole being were informed by a large and final despair.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was in this great and universal mood (granted to him as a seer, though he
+was a common man) that he saw down the ride, but somewhat to one side of it in
+the heart of the high wood, a great light shining from a barn or shed that
+stood there in the undergrowth, and to this light, though his way naturally led
+him to it, he felt also impelled by an influence as strong as or stronger than
+the despair that had filled his soul and all the woods around. He went on
+therefore quickly, straining with his eyes, and when he came into the light
+that shone out from this he saw a more brilliant light within, and men of his
+own kind adoring; but the vision was confused, like light on light or like
+vapours moving over bright metals in a cauldron, and as he gazed his mind
+became still and the dread left him altogether. He said it was like shutting a
+gentleman’s great oaken door against a driving storm.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This is the story he told me weeks after as we rode together in the battery,
+for he hid it in his heart till the spring. As I say, I believed him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He was an unlearned man and a strong; he never worshipped. He was of that plain
+stuff and clay on which has worked since all recorded time the power of the
+Spirit.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He said that when he left (as he did rapidly leave) that light, peace also left
+him, but that the haunting terror did not return. He found the clearing and his
+father’s hut; fatigue and the common world indeed returned, but with them a
+permanent memory of things experienced.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Every word I have written of him is true.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap03">On Cheeses</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+If antiquity be the test of nobility, as many affirm and none deny (saving,
+indeed, that family which takes for its motto “Sola Virtus Nobilitas,” which
+may mean that virtue is the only nobility, but which may also mean, mark you,
+that nobility is the only virtue—and anyhow denies that nobility is tested by
+the lapse of time), <i>if</i>, I say, antiquity be the only test of nobility,
+then cheese is a very noble thing.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But wait a moment: there was a digression in that first paragraph which to the
+purist might seem of a complicated kind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Were I writing algebra (I wish I were) I could have analysed my thoughts by the
+use of square brackets, round brackets, twiddly brackets, and the rest, all
+properly set out in order so that a Common Fool could follow them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But no such luck! I may not write of algebra here; for there is a rule current
+in all newspapers that no man may write upon any matter save upon those in
+which he is more learned than all his human fellows that drag themselves so
+slowly daily forward to the grave.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So I had to put the thing in the very common form of a digression, and very
+nearly to forget that great subject of cheese which I had put at the very head
+and title of this.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Which reminds me: had I followed the rule set down by a London journalist the
+other day (and of the proprietor of his paper I will say nothing—though I might
+have put down the remark to his proprietor) I would have hesitated to write
+that first paragraph. I would have hesitated, did I say? Griffins’ tails!
+Nay—Hippogriffs and other things of the night! I would not have dared to write
+it at all! For this journalist made a law and promulgated it, and the law was
+this: that no man should write that English which could not be understood if
+all the punctuation were left out. Punctuation, I take it, includes brackets,
+which the Lord of Printers knows are a very modern part of punctuation indeed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now let the horripilised reader look up again at the first paragraph (it will
+do him no harm), and think how it would look all written out in fair uncials
+like the beautiful Gospels of St. Chad, which anyone may see for nothing in the
+cathedral of Lichfield, an English town famous for eight or nine different
+things: as Garrick, Doctor Johnson, and its two opposite inns. Come, read that
+first paragraph over now and see what you could make of it if it were written
+out in uncials—that is, not only without punctuation, but without any division
+between the words. Wow! As the philosopher said when he was asked to give a
+plain answer “Yes” or “No.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And now to cheese. I have had quite enough of digressions and of follies. They
+are the happy youth of an article. They are the springtime of it. They are its
+riot. I am approaching the middle age of this article. Let us be solid upon the
+matter of cheese.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have premised its antiquity, which is of two sorts, as is that of a nobleman.
+First, the antiquity of its lineage; secondly, the antiquity of its self. For
+we all know that when we meet a nobleman we revere his nobility very much if he
+be himself old, and that this quality of age in him seems to marry itself in
+some mysterious way with the antiquity of his line.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The lineage of cheese is demonstrably beyond all record. What did the faun in
+the beginning of time when a god surprised him or a mortal had the misfortune
+to come across him in the woods? It is well known that the faun offered either
+of them cheese. So he knew how to make it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There are certain bestial men, hangers-on of the Germans, who would contend
+that this would prove cheese to be acquired by the Aryan race (or what not)
+from the Dolichocephalics (or what not), and there are certain horrors who
+descend to imitate these barbarians—though themselves born in these glorious
+islands, which are so steep upon their western side. But I will not detain you
+upon these lest I should fall head foremost into another digression and forget
+that my article, already in its middle age, is now approaching grey hairs.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At any rate, cheese is very old. It is beyond written language. Whether it is
+older than butter has been exhaustively discussed by several learned men, to
+whom I do not send you because the road towards them leads elsewhere. It is the
+universal opinion of all most accustomed to weigh evidence (and in these I very
+properly include not only such political hacks as are already upon the bench
+but sweepingly every single lawyer in Parliament, since any one of them may
+tomorrow be a judge) that milk is older than cheese, and that man had the use
+of milk before he cunningly devised the trick of squeezing it in a press and by
+sacrificing something of its sweetness endowed it with a sort of immortality.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The story of all this has perished. Do not believe any man who professes to
+give it you. If he tells you some legend of a god who taught the Wheat-eating
+Race, the Ploughers, and the Lords to make cheese, tell him such tales are true
+symbols, but symbols only. If he tells you that cheese was an evolution and a
+development, oh! then!—bring up your guns! Open on the fellow and sweep his
+intolerable lack of intelligence from the earth. Ask him if he discovers
+reality to be a function of time, and Being to hide in clockwork. Keep him on
+the hop with ironical comments upon how it may be that environment can act upon
+Will, while Will can do nothing with environment—whose proper name is mud.
+Pester the provincial. Run him off the field.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But about cheese. Its noble antiquity breeds in it a noble diffusion.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This happy Christendom of ours (which is just now suffering from an indigestion
+and needs a doctor—but having also a complication of insomnia cannot recollect
+his name) has been multifarious incredibly—but in nothing more than in cheese!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One cheese differs from another, and the difference is in sweeps, and in
+landscapes, and in provinces, and in countrysides, and in climates, and in
+principalities, and in realms, and in the nature of things. Cheese does most
+gloriously reflect the multitudinous effect of earthly things, which could not
+be multitudinous did they not proceed from one mind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Consider the cheese of Rocquefort: how hard it is in its little box. Consider
+the cheese of Camembert, which is hard also, and also lives in a little box,
+but must not be eaten until it is soft and yellow. Consider the cheese of
+Stilton, which is not made there, and of Cheddar, which is. Then there is your
+Parmesan, which idiots buy rancid in bottles, but which the wise grate daily
+for their use: you think it is hard from its birth? You are mistaken. It is the
+world that hardens the Parmesan. In its youth the Parmesan is very soft and
+easy, and is voraciously devoured.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then there is your cheese of Wensleydale, which is made in Wensleydale, and
+your little Swiss cheese, which is soft and creamy and eaten with sugar, and
+there is your Cheshire cheese and your little Cornish cheese, whose name
+escapes me, and your huge round cheese out of the Midlands, as big as a fort
+whose name I never heard. There is your toasted or Welsh cheese, and your
+cheese of Pont-l’evêque, and your white cheese of Brie, which is a chalky sort
+of cheese. And there is your cheese of Neufchâtel, and there is your Gorgonzola
+cheese, which is mottled all over like some marbles, or like that Mediterranean
+soap which is made of wood-ash and of olive oil. There is your Gloucester
+cheese called the Double Gloucester, and I have read in a book of Dunlop
+cheese, which is made in Ayrshire: they could tell you more about it in
+Kilmarnock. Then Suffolk makes a cheese, but does not give it any name; and
+talking of that reminds me how going to Le Quesnoy to pass the people there the
+time of day, and to see what was left of that famous but forgotten fortress, a
+young man there showed me a cheese, which he told me also had no name, but
+which was native to the town, and in the valley of Ste. Engrace, where is that
+great wood which shuts off all the world, they make their cheese of ewe’s milk
+and sell it in Tardets, which is their only livelihood. They make a cheese in
+Port-Salut which is a very subtle cheese, and there is a cheese of Limburg, and
+I know not how many others, or rather I know them, but you have had enough: for
+a little cheese goes a long way. No man is a glutton on cheese.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What other cheese has great holes in it like Gruyere, or what other is as round
+as a cannon-ball like that cheese called Dutch? which reminds me:—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Talking of Dutch cheese. Do you not notice how the intimate mind of Europe is
+reflected in cheese? For in the centre of Europe, and where Europe is most
+active, I mean in Britain and in Gaul and in Northern Italy, and in the valley
+of the Rhine—nay, to some extent in Spain (in her Pyrenean valleys at
+least)—there flourishes a vast burgeoning of cheese, infinite in variety, one
+in goodness. But as Europe fades away under the African wound which Spain
+suffered or the Eastern barbarism of the Elbe, what happens to cheese? It
+becomes very flat and similar. You can quote six cheeses perhaps which the
+public power of Christendom has founded outside the limits of its ancient
+Empire—but not more than six. I will quote you 253 between the Ebro and the
+Grampians, between Brindisi and the Irish Channel.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I do not write vainly. It is a profound thing.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap04">The Captain of Industry</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+The heir of the merchant Mahmoud had not disappointed that great financier
+while he still lived, and when he died he had the satisfaction of seeing the
+young man, now twenty-five years of age, successfully conducting his numerous
+affairs, and increasing (fabulous as this may seem) the millions with which his
+uncle entrusted him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Shortly after Mahmoud’s death the prosperity of the firm had already given rise
+to a new proverb, and men said: “Do you think I am Mahmoud’s-Nephew?” when they
+were asked to lend money or in some other way to jeopardize a few coppers in
+the service of God or their neighbour.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was also a current expression, “He’s rich as Mahmoud’s-Nephew,” when
+comrades would jest against some young fellow who was flusher than usual, and
+could afford a quart or even a gallon of wine for the company; while again the
+discontented and the oppressed would mutter between their teeth: “Heaven will
+take vengeance at last upon these Mahmoud’s-Nephews!” In a word,
+“Mahmoud’s-Nephew” came to mean throughout the whole Caliphate and wherever the
+True Believers spread their empire, an exceedingly wealthy man. But Mahmoud
+himself having been dead ten years and his heir the fortunate head of the
+establishment being now well over thirty years of age, there happened a very
+inexplicable and outrageous accident: he died—and after his death no
+instructions were discovered as to what should be done with this enormous
+capital, no will could be found, and it happened moreover to be a moment of
+great financial delicacy when the manager of each department in the business
+needed all the credit he could get.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In such a quandary the Chief Organizer and confidential friend, Ahmed, upon
+whom the business already largely depended, and who was so circumstanced that
+he could draw almost at will upon the balances, imagined a most intelligent way
+of escaping from the difficulties that would arise when the death of the
+principal was known.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He caused a quantity of hay, of straw, of dust and of other worthless materials
+to be stuffed into a figure of canvas; this he wrapped round with the usual
+clothes that Mahmoud’s-Nephew had worn in the office, he shrouded the face with
+the hood which his chief had commonly worn during life, and having so dressed
+the lay figure and secretly buried the real body, he admitted upon the morning
+after the death those who first had business with his master.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He met them at the door with smiles and bows, saying: “You know, gentlemen,
+that like most really successful men, my chief is as silent as his decisions
+are rapid; he will listen to what you have to say, and it will be a plain yes
+or no at the end of it.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+These gentlemen came with a proposal to sell to the firm for the sum of one
+million dinars a barren rock in the Indian Sea, which was not even theirs, and
+on which indeed not one of them had ever set eyes. Their claim to advance so
+original a proposal was that to their certain knowledge two thousand of the
+wealthiest citizens of their town were willing to buy the rock again at a
+profit from whoever should be its possessor during the next few weeks in the
+fond hope of selling it once again to provincials, clerics, widows, orphans,
+and in general the uninstructed and the credulous—among whom had been
+industriously spread the report that the rock in question consisted of one
+solid and flawless diamond.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+These gentlemen sitting round the table before the shrouded figure laid down
+their proposals, whereupon the manager briefly summed up what they had said,
+and having done so, replied: “Gentlemen, his lordship is a man of few words;
+but you will have your answer in a moment if you will be good enough to rise,
+as he is at this moment expecting a deputation from the Holy Men who are
+entreating him to provide the cost of a mosque in one of the suburbs.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The proposers of the bargain rose, greatly awed and pleased by the silence and
+dignity of the financier who apparently remained for a moment discussing their
+proposals without gesture and in a tone too low for them to hear, while his
+manager bent over to listen.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It is ever so,” said one of them, “you may ever know the greatest men by their
+silence.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You are right,” said another, “he is not one to be easily deceived.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The manager in a moment or two rejoined them at the door. “Gentlemen,” he said,
+smiling, “my chief has heard your arguments and has expressed his assent to
+your conditions.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They went out, delighted at the success of their mission, and congratulated
+Ahmed upon the financier’s genius.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“He does not,” said the manager, laughing in hearty agreement, “bestow himself
+as a present upon all and sundry. Nor is he often caught indulging in short
+bouts of sleep, nor are flies diabolically left to repose undisturbed upon his
+features—but you must excuse me, I hear the Holy Men,” and indeed from the
+inner room came a noise of speechifying in that doleful sing-song which is
+associated in Bagdad with the practice of religion.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The gentlemen who had thus had the luck to interview Mahmoud’s-Nephew with such
+success in the matter of the Diamond Island, soon spread about the news, and
+confirmed their fellow-citizens in the certitude that a great financier is
+neither talkative nor vivacious. “Still waters run deep,” they said, and all
+those to whom they said it nodded in a wise acquiescence. Nor had the Manager
+the least difficulty in receiving one set of customers after another and in
+negotiating within three weeks an infinite amount of business, all of which
+confirmed those who had the pleasure of an audience with the stuffed dummy that
+great fortunes were made and retained by reticence and a contempt for convivial
+weakness.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At last the ingenious man of affairs, to whom the whole combination was due,
+was not a little disturbed to receive from the Caliph a note couched in the
+following terms:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“The Commander of the Faithful and the Servant of the Merciful whose name be
+exalted, to the Nephew of Mahmoud:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“My Lord:—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It has been the custom since the days of my grandfather (May his soul see
+God!) for the more wealthy of the Faithful to be called to my councils, and
+upon my summoning them thither it has not been unusual for them to present sums
+varying in magnitude but always proportionate to their total fortunes. My court
+will receive signal honour if you will present yourself after the morning
+prayer of the day after to-morrow. My treasurer will receive from you with
+gratitude and remembrance upon the previous day and not later than noon, the
+sum of one million dinars.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here, indeed, was a perplexity. The payment of the money was an easy matter and
+was duly accomplished; but how should the lay figure which did duty in such
+domestic scenes as the negotiation of loans, the bullying of debtors, the
+purchase of options, and the cheating of the innocent and the embarrassed, take
+his place in the Caliph’s council and remain undiscovered? For great as was the
+reputation of Mahmoud’s-Nephew for discretion and for golden silence, such as
+are proper to the accumulation of great wealth, there would seem a necessity in
+any political assembly to open the mouth from time to time, if only for the
+giving of a vote.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But Ahmed, who had by this time accumulated into his own hands the millions
+formerly his master’s, finally solved the problem. Judicious presents to the
+servants of the palace and the public criers made his way the easier, and on
+the summoning of the council Mahmoud’s-Nephew, whose troublesome affection of
+the throat was now publicly discussed, was permitted to bring into the
+council-room his private secretary and manager.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Moreover at the council, as at his private office, the continued taciturnity of
+the millionaire could not but impress the politicians as it had already
+impressed the financial world.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“He does not waste his breath in tub-thumping,” said one, looking reverently at
+the sealed figure.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“No,” another would reply, “they may ridicule our old-fashioned, honest, quiet
+Mohammedan country gentlemen, but for common sense I will back them against all
+the brilliant paradoxical young fellows of our day.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“They say he is very kind at heart and lovable,” a third would then add, upon
+which a fourth would bear his testimony thus:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Yes, and though he says nothing about it, his charitable gifts are enormous.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+By the second meeting of the council the lay figure had achieved a reputation
+of so high a sort that the Caliph himself insisted upon making him a domestic
+adviser, one of the three who perpetually associated with the Commander of the
+<i>Faithful</i> and directed his policy. For the universal esteem in which the
+new councillor was held had affected that Prince very deeply.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here there arose a crux from which there could be no escape, as one of the
+three chief councillors, Mahmoud’s-Nephew, must speak at last and deliver
+judgments!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Manager, first considering the whole business, and next adding up his
+private gains, which he had carefully laid out in estates of which the firm and
+its employés knew nothing, decided that he could afford to retire. What might
+happen to the general business after his withdrawal would not be his concern.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He first gave out, therefore, that the millionaire was taken exceedingly ill,
+and that his life was despaired of: later, within a few hours, that he was
+dead.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So far from attempting to allay the panic which ensued, Ahmed frankly admitted
+the worst.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+With cries of despair and a confident appeal to the justice of Heaven against
+such intrigues, the honest fellow permitted the whole of the vast business to
+be wound up in favour of newcomers, who had not forgotten to reward him, and
+soothing as best he could the ruined crowds of small investors who thronged
+round him for help and advice, he retired under an assumed name to his highly
+profitable estates, which were situated in the most distant provinces of the
+known world.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As for Mahmoud’s-Nephew, three theories arose about him which are still
+disputed to this day:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The first was that his magnificent brain with its equitable judgment and its
+power of strict secrecy, had designed plans too far advanced for his time, and
+that his bankruptcy was due to excess of wisdom.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The second theory would have it that by “going into politics” (as the phrase
+runs in Bagdad) he had dissipated his energies, neglected his business, and
+that the inevitable consequences had followed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The third theory was far more reasonable. Mahmoud’s-Nephew, according to this,
+had towards the end of his life lost judgment; his garrulous indecision within
+the last few days before his death was notorious: in the Caliph’s council, as
+those who should best know were sure, one could hardly get a word in edgewise
+for his bombastic self-assurance; while in matters of business, to conduct a
+bargain with him was more like attending a public meeting than the prosecution
+of negotiations with a respectable banker.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In a word, it was generally agreed that Mahmoud’s-Nephew’s success had been
+bound up with his splendid silence, his fall, bankruptcy, and death, with a
+lesion of the brain which had disturbed this miracle of self-control.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap05">The Inventor</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+I had a day free between two lectures in the south-west of England, and I spent
+it stopping at a town in which there was a large and very comfortable old
+posting-house or coaching-inn. I had meant to stay some few hours there and to
+take the last train out in the evening, and I had meant to spend those hours
+alone and resting; but this was not permitted me, for just as I had taken up
+the local paper, which was a humble, reasonable thing, empty of any passion and
+violence and very reposeful to read, a man came up and touched my left elbow
+sharply: a gesture not at all to my taste nor, I think, to that of anyone who
+is trying to read his paper.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I looked up and saw a man who must have been quite sixty years of age. He had
+on a soft, felt slouch hat, a very old and greenish black coat; he stooped and
+shuffled; he was clean-shaven, with long grey hair, and his eyes were
+astonishingly bright and piercing and set close together.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He said, “I beg your pardon.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I said, “Eh, what?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He said again “I beg your pardon” in the tones of a man who almost commands,
+and having said this he put his hat on the table, dragged a chair quite close
+to mine, and pulled a folded bunch of foolscap sheets out of his pocket. His
+manner was that of a man who engages your attention and has a right to engage
+it. There were no preliminaries and there was no introduction. This was
+apparently his manner, and I submitted.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I have here,” he said, fixing me with his intense eyes, “the plans for a
+speedometer.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Oh!” said I.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You know what a speedometer is?” he asked suspiciously.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I said yes. I said it was a machine for measuring the speed of vehicles, and
+that it was compounded of two (or more) Greek words.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He nodded; he was pleased that I knew so much, and could therefore listen to
+his tale and understand it. He pulled his grey baggy trousers up over the knee,
+settled himself, sitting forward, and opened his document. He cleared his
+throat, still fixing me with those eyes of his, and said—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Every speedometer up to now has depended upon the same principle as a Watt’s
+governor; that is, there are two little balls attached to each by a limb to a
+central shaft: they rise and fall according to their speed of rotation, and
+this movement is indicated upon a dial.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I nodded.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He cleared his throat again. “Of course, that is unsatisfactory.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Damnably!” said I, but this reply did not check him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It works tolerably well at high speeds; at low speeds it is useless; and then
+again there is a very rapid fluctuation, and the instrument is of only
+approximate precision.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Not it!” said I to encourage him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“There is one exception,” he continued, “to this principle, and that is a
+speedometer which depends upon the introduction of resistance into a current
+generated by a small magneto. The faster the magneto turns the stronger the
+current generated, and the change is indicated upon a dial.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Yes,” said I sadly, “as in the former case so in this; the change of speed is
+indicated upon a dial.” And I sighed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“But this method also,” he went on tenaciously, “has its defects.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You may lay to that,” I interrupted.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It has the defect that at high speeds its readings are not quite correct, and
+at very low speeds still less so. Moreover, it is said that it slightly
+deteriorates with the passage of time.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Now that,” I broke in emphatically, “is a defect I have discovered in——”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But he put up his hand to stop me. “It slightly deteriorates, I say, with the
+passage of time.” He paused a moment impressively. “No one has hitherto
+discovered any system which will accurately record the speed of a vehicle or of
+any rotary movement and register it at the lowest as at the highest speeds.” He
+paused again for a still longer period in order to give still greater emphasis
+to what he had to say. He concluded in a new note of sober triumph: “I have
+solved the problem!”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I thought this was the end of him, and I got up and beamed a congratulation at
+him and asked if he would drink anything, but he only said, “Please sit down
+again and I will explain.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is no way of combating this sort of thing, and so I sat down, and he went
+on:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It is perfectly simple....” He passed his hand over his forehead. “It is so
+simple that one would say it must have been thought of before; but that is what
+is always said of a great invention.... Now I have here” (and he opened out his
+foolscap) “the full details. But I will not read them to you; I will summarize
+them briefly.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Have you a plan or anything I could watch?” said I a little anxiously.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“No,” he answered sharply, “I have not, but if you like I will draw a rough
+sketch as I go along upon the margin of your newspaper.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Thank you,” I said.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He drew the newspaper towards him and put it on his knee. He pulled out a
+pencil; he held the foolscap up before his eye, and he began to describe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“The general principle upon which my speedometer reposes,” he said solemnly,
+“is the coordination of the cylinder and the cone upon an angle which will have
+to be determined in practice, and will probably vary for different types. But
+it will never fall below 15 nor rise over 43.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I should have thought——” I began, but he told me I could not yet have grasped
+it, and that he wished to be more explicit.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“On a king bolt,” he said, occasionally consulting his notes, “runs a pivot in
+bevel which is kept in place by a small hair-spring, which spring fits loosely
+on the Conkling Shaft.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Exactly,” said I, “I see what is coming.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But he wouldn’t let me off so easily.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Yes, of course you are going to say that the whole will be keyed together, and
+that the T-pattern nuts on a movable shank will be my method of attachment to
+the fixed portion next to the cam? Eh? So it is, but” (and here his eye
+brightened), “<i>anyone</i> could have arranged that. My particularity is that
+I have a freedom of movement even at the lowest speeds, and an accuracy of
+notation even at the highest, which is secured in a wholly novel manner ... and
+yet so simply. What do you think it is?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I affected to look puzzled, and thought for a moment. “I cannot imagine,” said
+I, “unless——”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“No,” he interrupted, “do not try to guess it, for you never will. <i>I turn
+the flange inward</i> on a Wilkinson lathe and give it a parabolic section so
+that the axes are always parallel to each other and to the shaft.... There!”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had no idea the man could be so moved: there was jubilation in his voice.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“There!” he said again, as though some effort of the brain had exhausted him.
+“It can’t be touched, mind you,” he added suspiciously; “I’ve taken out the
+provisional patents. There’s one man I know wants to fight it in the courts as
+an infringement on Wilkinson’s own patent, but it can’t be touched!” He shook
+his head decisively. “No! my lawyer’s certain of that—and so’m I!”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here there was a break in his communications, so to speak, and he had
+apparently run out. It was not for me to wind him up again. I watched him with
+a sombre relief as he stood up again to full height, leaned his head back, and
+sighed profoundly with satisfaction and with completion. He folded up his
+specification and put it in his pocket again. He tore off the incomprehensible
+sketch he had made with his pencil while he was speaking, and put it by me on
+the mantelshelf. “You might like to keep it,” he said pathetically; “it’s a
+document, that is; it will be famous some day.” He looked at it lovingly,
+almost as though he was going to take it back again: but he thought better of
+it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was waiting, I will not say itching, for him to take his leave, when a god or
+demon, that same perhaps which had treated the poor fellow as a jest for a
+whole lifetime, inspired him to take a very false step indeed. He had already
+taken up his hat and was turning as though to go to the door, when the
+unfortunate thought struck him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“What would you do?” he said.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“How do you mean?” I answered.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Why, what would you do to try and get it taken up and talked about?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then it was my turn, and I let him have it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You must get the Press and the Government to work together,” I said rapidly,
+“and particularly in connection with the new Government Service of Camion’s
+Fettle-Trains and Cursory Circuits.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He nodded like one who thoroughly understands and desires to hear more.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Speed,” I added nonchalantly, “and the measure of it are of course essentials
+in their case.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He nodded again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“And they have never really settled the problem ... especially about
+Fettle-Trains.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“No,” said he ponderously, “so I understand.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Well now,” I went on, full of the chase, “you will naturally ask me who are
+you to go to?” I scratched my nose. “You know the Fusionary Office, as we call
+it? It is really, of course, a part of the Stannaries. But the Chief Permanent
+Secretary likes to have it called the Fusionary Office; it’s his vanity.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Yes,” said he eagerly, “yes, go on!”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“They always have the same hours,” I said, “four to eleven.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Four to <i>what</i>?” he asked, looking up.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“To eleven,” I repeated sharply; “but you’d much better call round about
+three.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He looked bewildered.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Don’t interrupt,” I said, seeing him open his lips, “or I shall lose the
+thread. It’s rather complicated. You call at three by the little door in
+Whitehall on the Embankment side towards the Horse Guards looking south, and
+<i>don’t</i> ring the bell.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Why not?” he asked. I thought for the moment he might begin to cry.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Oh, well,” I said testily, “you mustn’t ask those questions. All these
+institutions are very old institutions with habits and prejudices of their own.
+You mustn’t ring the bell, that’s all; they don’t like it; you must just wait
+until they open; and then, if you take <i>my</i> advice, don’t write a note or
+ask to interview the First Analyist. Don’t do any of the usual things, but just
+fill up one of the regular Treasury forms and state that you have come with
+regard to the Perception and Mensuration advertisements.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+His face was pained and wrinkled as he heard me, but he said, “I beg your
+pardon ... but shall I have it all explained to me at the office?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Certainly not!” I said, aghast; “it’s just because you might have so much
+difficulty there that I’m explaining everything to you.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Yes, I know,” he said doubtfully; “thank you.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I hope you’ll try and follow what I say,” I continued a little wearily; “I
+have special opportunities for knowing.... Political, you know.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Certainly,” he said, “certainly; but about those forms?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Well,” I said, “you didn’t suppose they supplied them, did you?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I almost did,” he ventured.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Oh, you did,” said I, with a loud laugh, “well, you’re wrong there. However, I
+dare say I’ve got one on me.” He looked up eagerly as I felt in my pockets. I
+brought out a telegraph blank, two letters, and a tobacco pouch. I looked at
+them for a moment. “No,” said I, “I haven’t got one; it’s a pity, but I’ll tell
+you who will give you one; you know the place opposite, where the bills are
+drafted?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I’m afraid I don’t,” he said, admitting ignorance for the first time in this
+conversation and perhaps in his life.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Well,” said I impatiently, “never mind, anyone will show you. Go there, and if
+they don’t give you a form they’ll show you a copy of Paper B, which is much
+the same thing.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Thank you,” said he humbly, and he got up to move out. He was going a little
+groggily, his eyes were dull and sodden. He presented all the aspect of a man
+under a heavy strain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You’ve got it all clear, I hope?” I asked cheerfully as he neared the door.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Oh, yes!” he said. “Thank you; yes!”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Anything else?” I shouted as he passed out into the courtyard. “Anything else
+I can do? You’ll always find me in the room over the office, Room H, down the
+little iron staircase,” I nodded genially to him as he disappeared.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In this way did we exchange, the Inventor and I, those expert confidences and
+mutual aids in either’s technical skill which are too rarely discovered in
+modern travel.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap06">The Views of England</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+England is a country with edges and with a core. It is a country very small for
+the number of people who live in it, and very appreciable to the eye for the
+traveller who travels on foot or in a boat from place to place. Considering the
+part it has in the making of the world, it might justly be compared to a jewel
+which is very small and very valuable and can almost be held in the hand. The
+physical appreciation of England is to be reached by an appreciation of
+landscape.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It so happens that England is traversed by remarkable and sudden ranges; hills
+with a sharp escarpment overlooking great undulating plains. This is not true
+of any other one country of Europe, but it is true of England, and a man who
+professes to consider, to understand, to criticize, to defend, and to love this
+country, must know the Pennines, the Cotswolds, the North and the South Downs,
+the Chilterns, the Mendips, and the Malverns; he must know Delamere Forest, and
+he must know the Hill of Beeston, from which all Cheshire may be perceived. If
+he knows these heights and has long considered the prospects which they afford,
+he can claim to have seen the face of England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is deplorable that our modern method of travel does cut us off from such
+experiences. They were not only common to, they were necessary to our fathers;
+the roads would not be at the expense of tunnelling through hills, and (what is
+more important) when those men who most mould the knowledge of the country by
+the country (the people who deal with its soil, who live separate upon its
+separate farms) visited each other upon horses; and horses, unlike railway
+trains, cannot climb hills. They puff, they heave, they snort, as do railway
+trains, but they climb them well.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On this account, because the roads for the carriages went over hills, and
+because the method of visiting even a near neighbour would permit you to go
+over hills, the England of quite a little time ago was familiar with the
+half-dozen great landscapes of England. You may see it in that most individual,
+that most peculiar, and, I think, that most glorious school of painters, the
+English landscape painter, Constable with his thick colours, Turner with his
+wonderment, and even the portrait painters in their backgrounds depend upon the
+view of the plains from a height. To-day our landscape painters sometimes do
+the same, but the market for that emotion is capricious, it is no longer the
+secure and natural way of presenting England to English eyes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If you will consider these plains at the foot of the English hills you will
+find in them the whole history of the country, and the whole meaning of it as
+well. Two occur to me first: The view of the Weald (both Kentish and Sussex)
+through which the influence of Europe perpetually approached the island, not
+only in the crisis of the Roman or the Norman invasions, but in a hundred
+episodes stretched out through two thousand years—and the view of the Thames
+Valley as one gets it on a clear day from the summits of the North Downs when
+one looks northward and sees very faintly the Chilterns along the horizon.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This last is obscured by London. One needs a very particular circumstance in
+which to appreciate it. The air must be dry and clear, there must be little or
+no wind, or if there is a wind it must be a strong one from the south and west
+that has already driven the smoke from the western edge of the town. When this
+is so, a man looks right across to the sandy heights just north of the Thames,
+and far beyond he sees the Chilterns, like a landfall upon the rim of the
+world. He looks at all that soil on which the government of this country has
+been rooted. He sees the hill of Windsor. He overlooks, though he cannot
+perceive at so great a distance, the two great schools of the rich; he has
+within one view the principal Castle of the Kings, the place of their council,
+and the cathedral of their capital city: so true is it that the Thames made
+England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then, if you consider the upper half of that valley, the view is from the ridge
+of the Berkshire hills, or, better still, from Cumnor, or from the clump of
+trees above Faringdon. From such look-outs the astonishing loneliness which
+England has had the strength to preserve in this historic belt of land
+profoundly strikes a man. You can see to your left and, a long way off, the
+hill where, as is most probable, Alfred thrust back the Pagans, and so saved
+one-half of Christendom. Oxford is within your landscape. The roll upwards in a
+glacis of the Cotswold, the nodal point of the Roman roads at Cirencester, and
+the ancient crossings of the Thames.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From the Cotswold again westward you look over a sheer wall and see one of
+those differences which make up England. For the passage from the Upper Thames
+to the flat and luxuriant valley floor of the Severn is a transition (if it be
+made by crossing the hills) more sudden than that between many countries
+abroad. Had our feudalism cut England into provinces we should here have two
+marked provincial histories marching together, for the natural contrast is
+greater than between Normandy and Brittany at any part of their march or
+between Aragon and Castile at any part of theirs. I do not know what it is, but
+the view of the jagged Malvern seen above the happy mists of autumn, when these
+mists lie like a warm fleece upon the orchards of the vale, preserving them of
+a morning until the strengthening of the sun, the sudden aspect, I say, of
+those jagged peaks strikes one like a vision of a new world. How many men have
+thought it! How often it ought to be written down! It hangs in the memory of
+the traveller like a permanent benediction, and remains in his mind a standing
+symbol of peace.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have no space to speak of how from Beeston you see all Cheshire; the Vale
+Royal to your left, and the main plain of the county to your right. The whole
+stretch is framed in with definite hills, the last and highly marked line of
+the Pennines bounds the view upon the east; upon the west the first of the
+Welsh hills stands sharply in a long even line against the fading sun; and on
+the north you see the height of Delamere. There are three other views in the
+North of England, the first easy, the last two difficult to obtain, all between
+them making up a true picture of what the North of England is. The first (and
+it is very famous) is the view over the industrial ferment of South Lancashire,
+seen from the complete silence of the hills round the Peak. No matter where you
+cross that summit, even if you take the high road from the Snake Inn to
+Glossop, where the easiest, and therefore the least striking, passage has been
+chosen, much more if you follow the wild heights a little to the south until
+you come to a more abrupt descent on which there are not even paths, there
+comes a point where there is presented to you in one great offering, without
+introduction, a vision of the vast energies of England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I remember once in winter when the sun sets early (it was December, and seven
+years ago) coming upon this sight. The clouds were so arranged after an
+Atlantic storm that all the heaven (which here is always spacious and noble)
+was covered with a rolling curtain as though a man had pulled it with his
+hands. But far off, westward, there was a broad red band of sunset, and against
+this the smoke, the tall stacks, the violence and the wealth of that cauldron.
+One could almost hear the noise. It did arrest one; it was as though someone
+had painted something unreal, to be a mystical emblem, and to sum up in one
+picture all those million despairs, misfortunes, chances, disciplines, and
+acquirements which make up the character of Lancashire men. This vision also
+many men have seen and many men shall write of. Very rarely upon the surface of
+the earth does the soul take on so immediate and obvious a physical body as
+does the soul of that industrial world in the view of which I speak.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And the two other views are, first, that difficult one which one must pick and
+choose but which can be obtained from several sites (especially at the end of
+Wensleydale), and which is the view of that rich, old, and agricultural
+Yorkshire, from which the county draws its traditions and in which, perhaps,
+the truest spirit of the county still abides; for Yorkshire is at heart farmer,
+and possibly after three generations of a town, a man from this part of England
+still looks more lively when he sees a lively horse put before him for
+judgment. Second, the view from Cross Fell, very, very difficult to obtain, for
+often when one climbs Cross Fell in sunny weather, one gets up over the Scar
+under the threat of cloud, and one only reaches the summit by the time the
+evening or the mist has fallen; but if one has the luck to see the view of
+which I speak, then one sees all that rugged remaining part of the Northwest
+exactly as the Romans saw it, and as it has been for two thousand years, with
+the high land of the lakes and the stony nature and the sparseness of all the
+stretch about one, and the approach to a foreign land.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have often thought when I have heard men blaming the story of England or her
+present mood for false reasons, or, what is worse, praising her for false
+reasons; when I have heard the men of the cities talking wild talk got from
+maps and from print, or the disappointed men talking wild talk of another kind,
+expecting impossible or foreign perfections from their own kindred—I have often
+thought, I say, when I have heard the folly upon either side (and the mass of
+it daily increases)—that it would be a wholesome thing if one could take such a
+talker and make him walk from Dover to the Solway, exercising some care that he
+should rise before the sun, and that he should see in clear weather the views
+of which I speak. A man who has done that has seen England—not the name or the
+map or the rhetorical catchword, but the thing. And it does not take so very
+long.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap07">The Lunatic</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Those who are interested in what simple straightforward people call the
+Pathology of Consciousness have gathered a great body of evidence upon the
+various manias that affect men, and there is an especially interesting
+department of this which concerns illusion upon matters which in the sane are
+determinable by the senses and common experience. Thus one man will believe
+himself to be the Emperor of China, another to be William Shakespeare or some
+other impossible person, though one would imagine that his every accident of
+daily life would convince him to the contrary.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had recently occasion to watch one of the most harmless and yet one of the
+most striking of these illusions in a private asylum which has specialized, if
+I may so express myself, upon men of letters. The case was harmless and even
+benign, for the poor fellow was not of a combative disposition to begin with,
+was of too careful and dignified a temperament to show more than slight
+irritation if his delusion were contradicted. This misfortune, however, very
+rarely overtook him, for those who came to visit him were warned to humour his
+whim. This eccentricity I will now describe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He imagined, nay he was convinced, that he was existing fifty years in the
+future, and that the interest of his conversation for others would lie in his
+reminiscence of the state of society in which we are actually living today. If
+anyone who had not been warned was imprudent enough to suggest that the
+conversation was taking place in 1909 would smile gently, nod, and say rather
+bitterly, “Yes, I know, I know,” as though recognizing a universal plot against
+him which he was too weary to combat. But when he had said this he would
+continue to talk on as though both parties to the conversation were equally
+convinced that the year was really 1960 or thereabouts. Whether to add zest to
+what he said or from some part of his malady consonant with all the rest, my
+poor friend (who had been a journalist and will very possibly be a journalist
+again) presupposed that the whole structure of society as we now know it had
+changed and that his reminiscences were those of a past time which, on account
+of some great revolution or other, men imperfectly comprehended, so that it
+must be of the highest interest and advantage to listen to the testimony of an
+eye-witness upon them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What especially delighted him (for he was a zealous admirer of the society he
+described) was the method of government.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“There was no possibility of going wrong,” he said to me with curious zeal,
+“not a shadow of danger! It would be difficult for you to understand now how
+easily the system worked!” And here he sighed profoundly. “And why on earth,”
+he continued, “men should have destroyed such an instrument when they had it is
+more than I can understand. There it was in every country in Europe; there were
+elections; all the men voted. And mind you, the elections were not so very far
+apart. Most people living at one election could remember the last, so there was
+no time for abuses to spring up.... Well, everybody voted. If a man wanted one
+thing he voted one way, and if he wanted another thing he voted the other way.
+The people for whom he voted would then meet, and with a sense of duty which I
+cannot exaggerate they would work month after month exactly to reproduce the
+will of those who had appointed them. It was a great time!”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Yet,” said I, “even so there must have been occasional divergences between
+what these people did and what the nation wanted.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I see what you mean,” he said, musing, “you mean that all the devotion in the
+world, the purest of motives and the most devoted sense of duty, could not keep
+the elected always in contact with the electors. You are right. But you must
+remember that in every country there was a machinery, with regard to the most
+important measures at least, which could throw the matter before the electors
+to be re-decided. I can remember no important occasion upon which the machinery
+was not brought into use.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“But, after all, the value of the decisions of the electorate you are
+describing,” said I, continuing to humour him, “would depend upon the
+information which the electorate had received as well as upon their judgment.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“As for their judgment,” he said, a little shortly, “it is not for our time to
+criticize theirs. Human judgment is not infallible, but I can well remember how
+in every nation of Europe it was the fixed conviction of the citizens that
+judgment was their chief characteristic, and especially judgment in national
+affairs. I cannot believe that so universal an attitude of the mind could have
+arisen had it not been justified. But as for information, they had the Press
+... a free Press!” Here he fell into a reverie, so powerfully did his supposed
+memories affect him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was willing to lead him on, because this kind of illness is best met by
+sympathy, and also because I was not uninterested to discover how his own trade
+had affected him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You would hardly understand it,” he said sadly; “what you hear from me is
+nothing but words.... I wish I could have shown you one of those great houses
+with information pouring in as rapid, as light, and as clear, from every hidden
+corner of the world, digested by master brains into the most lucid and terse
+presentment of it possible, and then whirled out on great wheels to be
+distributed by the thousand and the hundred thousand, to the hungry
+intelligence of Europe. There was nothing escaped it—nothing. In every capital
+were crowds of men dispatched from the other capitals of our civilization,
+moving with ease in the wealthiest houses, and exquisitely in touch with the
+most delicate phases of national life everywhere. And these men were such
+experts in selection that a picture of Europe as a whole was presented every
+morning to each particular part of Europe; and nowhere was this more
+successfully accomplished than in my own beloved town of London.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It must have been useful,” I said, “not only for the political purposes you
+describe, but also for investors. Indeed, I should imagine that the two things
+ran together.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You are right,” he said with interest, “the wide knowledge which even the
+poorest of the people possessed upon foreign affairs, through the action of the
+Press, was, further, of the utmost and most beneficent effect in teaching even
+the smallest proprietor what he need do with his capital. A discovery of
+metallic ore—especially of gold—a new invention, anything which might require
+development, was at once presented in its most exact aspect to the reader.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It was probably upon that account,” said I, “that property was so equally
+distributed, and that so general a prosperity reigned as you have often
+described to me.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You are right,” said he; “it was mainly this accurate and universal daily
+information which produced such excellent results.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“But it occurs to me,” said I, by way of stimulating his conversation with an
+objection, “that if so passionate and tenacious a habit of telling the exact
+truth upon innumerable things was present in this old institution of which you
+speak, it cannot but have bred a certain amount of dissension, and it must
+sometimes even have done definite harm to individuals whose private actions
+were thus exposed.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You are right,” said he; “the danger of such misfortunes was always present,
+and with the greatest desire in the world to support only what was worthy the
+writers of the journals of which I speak would occasionally blunder against
+private interests; but there was a remedy.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“What was that?” I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Why, the law provided that in this matter twelve men called a jury, instructed
+by a judge, after the matter had been fully explained to them by two other men
+whose business it was to examine the truth boldly for the sake of justice—I say
+the law provided that the twelve men after this process should decide whether
+the person injured should receive money from the newspaper or no, and if so, in
+what amount. And, lest there should still be any manner of doubt, the judge was
+permitted to set aside their verdict if he thought it unjust. To secure his
+absolute impartiality as between rich and poor he was paid somewhat over £100 a
+week, a large salary in those days, and he was further granted the right of
+imprisoning people at will or of taking away their property if he believed them
+to obstruct his judgment. Nor were these the only safeguards. For in the case
+of very rich men, to whom justice might not be done on account of the natural
+envy of their poorer fellow-citizens, it was arranged that the jury should
+consist only of rich men. In this way it was absolutely certain that a complete
+impartiality would reign. We shall never see those days again,” he concluded.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“But do you not think,” I said before I left him, “that the social perfection
+of the kind you have described must rather have been due to some spirit of the
+time than to particular institutions? For after all the zealous love of justice
+and the sense of duty which you describe are not social elements to be produced
+by laws.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Possibly,” he said, wearily, “possibly, but we shall never see it again!”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And I left him looking into the fire with infinite sadness and reflecting upon
+his lost youth and the year 1909: a pathetic figure, and one whose upkeep
+during the period of his deficiency was a very serious drain upon the resources
+of his family.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap08">The Inheritance of Humour</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+There are some truths which seem to get old almost as soon as they are born,
+and that simply because they are so astonishingly true that people soon get to
+feel as though they have known them all their lives; and such a truth is that
+which first one writer and then another in the last five years has been
+insisting upon, until it is already a perfect commonplace that nations do not
+know their own qualities. The inmost, the characteristic thing, that which
+differentiates one community from another, as tastes or colours differentiate
+things—<i>that</i> a nation hardly ever knows until it is pointed out to it by
+some foreigner or by some observer from within. It cannot know it, because one
+cannot tell the very atmosphere in which one lives. It is universal and
+therefore unnoticed. Now, if this is true of any nation, it is particularly
+true of England. And English people need to be told morning, noon, and night,
+not indeed the particular national characteristic which they have, since for
+this no particular name could be found, but rather what its evidences are; as,
+for instance, spontaneity in design, a passion for the mystical in poetry and
+the arts; a power in water-colour, in which they are perhaps quite alone, and
+certainly the first in Europe; and, above all, the chief, the master thing of
+all, humour.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is not nor ever will be anything like English humour. It is a thing quite
+apart, and by it for now more than two hundred years you may know England. It
+does not puzzle the foreigner (as the more blatant kind of intellectual man is
+too fond of boasting that it does); he simply admires it as a rule and wonders
+at it always; sometimes he actually dislikes it, but by it he knows that the
+thing he is reading is English and has the savour and taste of England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is impossible to define it, because it is so full of stuff and so organic a
+quality; but in our own time it was principally the pencil of Charles Keene
+that has summed it up and presented it in a moment and at once to the eye—the
+pencil of Charles Keene and that profound instinct whereby he chose the legends
+for his drawing, whether he found them by his own sympathy with the people or
+whether they were suggested to him by friends.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is the verdict of the men most competent perhaps to judge upon these things
+that he had the greatest graphic power of his time, and that no one had had
+that power to such an extent since Hogarth. Upon these things the men of the
+trade must dispute; the layman cannot doubt that he had here a genius and a
+genius comprehensively national. It is the essence of a good draughtsman that
+what he wants to draw, that he draws. The line that he desires to see upon the
+paper appears there as his fingers move. It is a quality extremely rare in its
+perfection. And Charles Keene had it in perfection, as in totally different
+manner had the offensive and diseased talent of Beardsley.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But more important than the power to do is the quality of the thing done, and
+the work of Charles Keene, multitudinous, varied, always great, is an
+inheritance for English people comparable to the inheritance they have in
+Dickens. It has also what Dickens had, a power of representing, as it were, the
+essential English. Just that which makes people say (with some truth) that
+Dickens never drew a gentleman would make them say with equal truth that what
+was interesting in the gentlemen of Charles Keene (and he perpetually drew
+them) was not the externals upon which gentlemen so pride themselves, but the
+soul. Thus I have in mind one picture wherein Keene drew a gentleman; true, he
+was a gentleman who had just swallowed a bad oyster, and therefore he was a man
+as well. I recall another of an old gentleman complaining of the caterpillar on
+his chop: he is a gentleman of the professional rather than the territorial
+classes, and, great heavens! what a power of line! All you see beneath the
+round of his hat is the end of his nose, the curve of his mouth, and two bushy
+ends of whiskers. Yet one can tell all about that man; one could write a book
+on him. One knows his economics, his religion, his accent, and what he thought
+of the Third Napoleon and what of Garibaldi. I have called draughtsmanship of
+this quality an inheritance—I might have called it perhaps with better
+propriety a monument. It is possible that England in the near future will look
+back with great envy, as she will certainly look back with great pride, to the
+generation preceding our own: they were a solid and a happy community of men.
+How much they owed to fortune, how much to themselves, it is not the place of
+such random stuff as mine to consider.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They were nearly impregnable in their island; they were not bellicose. They
+made and sold for all the world. Whether the very different future which we are
+now entering is to be laid to their door or to our own, that generation will
+still remain one of the principal things in English history, like the
+Elizabethan generation, or the group of men who organized the Seven Years’ War,
+or the group of men who fought in the Peninsula. And of that generation the
+note of health and of stability is represented by its humour. I am not sure
+that of all things educational to young men with no personal memory of that
+time, and especially to young men with no family tradition of it to reflect it
+in their books and their furniture; and—this yet more particularly—to young men
+born out of England yet claiming communion with England, the Anglo-Indians and
+the Colonials—I am not sure, I say, that the thing most educational to these
+would not be some hundred of Charles Keene’s drawings, for therein they would
+find what it was that gave them the power and the wealth that can hardly be
+defended unless its traditions are continued. Note how Victorian England dealt
+with the humour of a Volunteer review; note how it dealt with the humour of
+excessive wealth; and note how it dealt with the humour of schools and of Dons.
+One might almost define it by negations. There is in all of it no—but here I
+lack a word.... When things ring false it is because they have got by
+exaggeration or by some other form of falsity <i>beside</i> themselves.
+Appreciation of rank or even of worth becomes snobbishness; appreciation of
+another’s judgment false taste; and patriotism, the most beautiful, the
+noblest, the most necessary of the great emotions, corrupts into something very
+vile indeed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, the Victorians, and notably this man of whose power of the pencil I am
+speaking, did lack that false savour, that savour of just missing what one
+wishes to say or to feel, which haunts us to-day; and I should imagine that
+whether it were cause or effect the salt present in the preservation of the
+moral health of that society was humour. Let us enjoy it like an heirloom. It
+is more national than the language; at least it is more national than what the
+language has become under foreign pressure; it is infinitely more national than
+our problems and our tragedies. It is so national that—who knows?—it may crop
+up again of itself one of these days; and may that not be long.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap09">The Old Gentleman’s Opinions</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+I had occasion about a fortnight ago to meet a man more nearly ninety than
+eighty years of age, who had had special opportunity for discovering the
+changes of Europe during his long life. He was of the English wealthier classes
+by lineage, but his mother had been of the French nobility and a Huguenot. His
+father had been prominent in the diplomacy of a couple of generations ago. He
+had travelled widely, read perhaps less widely, but had known and appreciated
+an astonishing number of his contemporaries.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was interested (without any power of my own to judge whether his decisions
+were right or wrong) to discover what most struck him in the changes produced
+by that great stretch of years, all of which he had personally observed: he was
+born just after Waterloo, and he could remember the Reform Bill.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He surprised me by telling me, in the first place, that the material changes
+and discoveries, enormous though they were in extent, were not, in his view,
+the most striking. He was ready to leave it open whether these material changes
+were the causes of moral changes more remarkable, or merely effects concomitant
+with these. When I asked him what had struck him most of the great material
+developments, he told me the phonograph and the aeroplane among inventions;
+Mendel’s observations in the sphere of experimental knowledge; and, in the
+sphere of pure theory, the breakdown of many things that had been dogmas of
+physical science in his early manhood.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Since I did not quite understand what he meant by this last, he gave me, after
+some hesitation, a few examples: That the interior of the earth was molten;
+that a certain limited number of elements—not all yet isolated, but certainly
+few in their total—were at the base of all material forms, and were immutable;
+that the ultimate unit of each of these was a certain indivisible, eternal
+thing called the Atom; and so forth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He assured me that views of this sort, extending over a hundred or a thousand
+other points, were so universally accepted in his time that to dispute them was
+to be ranked with the unlettered or the fantastic. I asked him if it were so in
+economics. He said: Yes, in England, where there was a similar dogma of Free
+Trade: not abroad.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I asked him why Mendel’s published experiments and the theory based upon
+them had so much impressed him, he said because it was almost the first attempt
+to apply to the speculative dogmas of biology some standard demonstrably true;
+and here he wandered off to explain to me why the commonly accepted views upon
+biology, which had so changed thought in the latter part of his life, were
+associated with the name of Darwin. Darwin, he assured me, had brought forward
+no new discovery, but only a new hypothesis, and that only a small and
+particular hypothesis, whereby to explain the general theory of transformism.
+This theory, he told me—the unbroken descent of living organisms and their
+physical connection with one another and with common parents—had been a
+favourite idea from the beginning of history with many great thinkers, from
+Lucretius to Buffon and from Augustus of Hippo to Lamarck. Darwin’s, the old
+gentleman assured me, which he had defended with infinite toil, was that the
+method in which this continuity of descent proceeded was by an infinitely slow
+process of very small changes differentiating each minute step from the one
+before and the one after it, and these small changes Darwin’s hypothesis
+referred to a natural selection. Nothing else in Darwin’s work, he assured me,
+was novel, and yet it was the one thing which subsequent research had rendered
+more and more doubtful. Darwin (he said) said nothing new that was also true.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At this point I was moved to contradict the old gentleman, and to say that one
+unquestioned contribution to science of Darwin, as novel as it was secure, was
+his patient discovery of the work of earthworms, and of its vast effect. The
+old gentleman was willing to admit that I was right, but he said he was only
+speaking of Darwin in connection with transformism and the whimsical way in
+which his private name (and his errors) had become identified with evolution in
+general.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I asked him, since he had such a knowledge of men from observation, why this
+was so.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It seems at first sight,” he said, “as ridiculous as though we should
+associate the theory of light with the name of Newton, who inclined to the
+exploded corpuscular hypothesis, or the general conception of orbital motion in
+the universe to the great Bacon, who, in point of fact, rudely repudiated the
+Copernican theory in particular.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Did he, indeed?” said I, interested.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I believe so,” said the old gentleman; “at any rate you were asking me why
+Darwin, with his single contribution to the theory of transformism, and that a
+doubtful one—or, to be accurate, an exploded one—should be associated in the
+popular mind with the invention of so ancient a theory as that of evolution.
+The reason is, I think, no more than that he came at a particular moment when
+any man doing great quantities of detailed work in this field was bound to
+stand out exaggeratedly. The society in which he appeared had, until just
+before his day, accepted a narrow cosmogony, quite unknown to its ancestors.
+Darwin’s book certainly exploded that, and the mind of his time—ignorant as it
+was of the past—was ready to accept the shattering of its father’s idols as a
+new revelation.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“But you were saying,” said I, when he had thus dealt harshly with a great
+name, “that not the material but the moral changes of your time seemed to you
+the greatest. Which did you mean?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Why, in the first place,” said the old man thoughtfully and with some
+hesitation, “the curiously rapid decline of intelligence, or if you will have
+it differently, the clouding of thought that has marked the last thirty years.
+Men in my youth knew what they held and what they did not hold. They knew why
+they held it or why they did not hold it; but the attempt to enjoy the
+advantages of two contradictory systems at the same time, and, what is worse,
+the consulting of a man as an authority upon subjects he had never professed to
+know, are intellectual phenomena quite peculiar to the later years of my life.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I said we of the younger generation had all noticed it, as, for instance, when
+an honest but imperfectly intelligent chemist was listened to in his exposition
+of the nature of the soul, or a well-paid religious official was content to
+expound the consolations of Christianity while denying that Christianity was
+true.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“But,” I continued, “we are usually told that this unfortunate decline in the
+express powers of the brain is due to the wide and imperfect education of the
+populace at the present moment.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“That is not the case,” answered the old man sharply, when I had made myself
+clear by repeating my remarks in a louder tone, for he was a little deaf.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“That is not the case. The follies of which I speak are not particularly to be
+discovered among the poorer classes who have passed through the elementary
+schools. <i>These</i>” (it was to the schools that he was alluding with a
+comprehensive pessimism) “may account for the gross decline apparent in the
+public manners of our people, but not for faults which are peculiar to the
+upper and middle classes. It is not in the populace, but in those wealthier
+ranks that you will find the sort of intellectual decay of which I spoke.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I asked him whether he thought the tricks it was now considered cultured to
+play with mathematics came within the category of this intellectual decay. The
+old gentleman answered me a little abruptly that he could not judge what I was
+talking about.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Why,” said I, “do you believe that parallel straight lines <i>converge</i> or
+<i>diverge</i>?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Neither,” said he, a little bewildered. “If they are parallel they cannot by
+definition either diverge or converge.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You are, then,” said I, “an old-fashioned adherent of the theory of the
+parabolic universe?” At which sensible reply of mine the old man muttered
+rather ill-temperedly, and begged me to speak of something else.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I asked him whether the knowledge of languages had not declined in his time. He
+said, somewhat emphatically, yes, and especially the knowledge of French,
+assuring me that in his early years many a Fellow of a College at Oxford or at
+Cambridge was capable of speaking that tongue in such a fashion as to make
+himself understood. On the other hand, he admitted that German and Spanish were
+more widely known than they had been, and Arabic certainly far more widely
+diffused among those officials of the Empire who took their work seriously.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I asked him whether politics were more corrupt as time proceeded, he said
+No, but more cynical; and as to morals he would not judge, for he was certain
+that as one vice was corrected another appeared in its place.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What he told me he most deplored in the social system of his country was the
+power of the police and of the statistician by whom the policeman was guided.
+This he ascribed to the growth of great towns, to civic cowardice, and to a new
+taboo laid upon uniformed and labelled public authorities, who are now regarded
+as sacred, and also inordinately feared.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“In my youth,” he said, “there was a joke that every man in Paris was known to
+the police. Today that is universally true, and no joke with regard to every
+man in London. Our movements are marked, our earnings, our expenses, and our
+most private affairs known to the innumerable officials of the Treasury, our
+records of every sort, however intimate, are exactly and correctly maintained.
+The obtaining of work and a livelihood is dependent upon strong organizations.
+There is hardly an ailment or a domestic habit, from drinking wine to eating
+turnips, which some crank who has obtained the ear of a politician does not
+control or threaten in the immediate future to control.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“As for doctors!” he began, his voice cracking with indignation, “their
+abominable....” but here the old gentleman fell into so violent a fit of
+coughing that he nearly turned black in the face, and when I respectfully
+slapped him on the back, in the hopes of granting him relief, he made matters
+worse by shaking himself at me with an energy worthy of 1842. His nurse rushed
+in, clapped him upon his pillows, and was prepared to vent her wrath upon me
+for having caused this paroxysm, when the old man’s exhaustion and laboured
+breathing captured all her attention, and I had the opportunity to withdraw.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap10">On Historical Evidence</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+The last book to be published upon the last Dauphin of France set me thinking
+upon what seems to me the chief practical science in which modern men should
+secure themselves. I mean the science of history—and in this science almost all
+lies in the appreciation of evidence, for one of the chief particular problems
+presented to the student of history at the present moment is whether the
+Dauphin did or did not survive his imprisonment in the Temple.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Let me first say why, to so many of us, the science of history and the
+appreciation of the evidence upon which it depends is of the first moment. It
+is because, short of vision or revelation, history is our only extension of
+human experience. It is true that a philosophy common to all citizens is
+necessary for a State if it is to live—but short of that necessity the next
+most necessary factor is a knowledge of the stuff of mankind: of how men act
+under certain conditions and impulses. This knowledge may be acquired, and is
+in some measure, during the experience of one wise lifetime, but it is
+indefinitely extended by the accumulation of experience which history affords.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And what history so gives us is always of immediate and practical moment.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For instance, men sometimes speak with indifference of the rival theories as to
+the origin of European land tenure; they talk as though it were a mere academic
+debate whether the conception of private property in land arose comparatively
+late among Europeans or was native and original in our race. But you have only
+to watch a big popular discussion on that very great and at the present moment
+very living issue, the moral right to the private ownership in land, to see how
+heavily the historic argument weighs with every type of citizen. The instinct
+that gives that argument weight is a sound one, and not less sound in those who
+have least studied the matter than in those who have most studied it; for if
+our race from its immemorial origins has desired to own land as a private thing
+side by side with communal tenures, then it is pretty certain that we shall not
+modify that intention, however much we change our laws. If, on the other hand,
+it could be shown that before the advent of a complex civilization Europeans
+had no conception of private property in land, but treated land as a thing
+necessarily and always communal, then you could ascribe modern Socialist
+theories with regard to the land to that general movement of harking back to
+the origins which Europe has been assisting at through over a hundred years of
+revolution and of change.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It sounds cynical, but it is perfectly true, that much the largest factor in
+the historical conception of men is assertion. It is literally true that when
+men (with the exception of a very small proportion of scholars who are also
+intelligent) consider the past, the picture on which they dwell is a picture
+conveyed to them wholly by authority and by unquestioned authority. There was
+never a time when the original sources of history were more easily to be
+consulted by the plain man; but whether because of their very number, or
+because the habit is not yet formed, or because there are traditions of
+imaginary difficulty surrounding such reading, original sources were perhaps
+never less familiar to fairly educated opinion than they are today; and
+therefore no type of book gives more pleasure when one comes across it than
+those little cheap books, now becoming fairly numerous, in which the original
+sources, and the original sources alone, are put before the reader. Mr. Rait
+has already done such work in connection with Mary Queen of Scots, and Mr.
+Archer did it admirably in connection with the Third Crusade.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But apart from the importance of consulting original sources—which is like
+hearing the very witnesses themselves in court—there is a factor in historical
+judgment which by some unhappy accident is peculiarly lacking in the
+professional historian. It is a factor to which no particular name can be
+attached, though it may be called a department of common sense. But it is a
+mental power or attitude easily recognizable in those who possess it, and
+perhaps atrophied by the very atmosphere of the study. It goes with the open
+air with a general knowledge of men and with that rapid recognition of the way
+in which things “fit in” which is necessarily developed by active life.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For instance, when you know the pace at which Harold marched down from the
+north to Hastings you recognize, if you use that factor of historic judgment of
+which I spake, that the affair was not barbaric. There must have been fairly
+good roads, and there must have been a high organization of transport. You have
+only to consider for a moment what a column looks like, even if it be only a
+brigade, to see the truth of that. Again, this type of judgment forbids anyone
+who uses it to ascribe great popular movements (great massacres, great
+turmoils, and so forth) to craft. It is a very common thing, especially in
+modern history, to lay such things to the power of one or two wealthy or one or
+two bloody leaders, but you have only to think for a few moments of what a mob
+is to see the falsity of that. Craft can harness this sort of explosive force,
+it can control it, or persuade it, or canalize it to certain issues, but it
+cannot create it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Again, this sort of sense easily recognizes in historic types the parallels of
+modern experience. It avoids the error of thinking history a mistake and making
+of the men and women who appear there something remote from humanity, extreme,
+and either stilted or grandiose.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In aid of this last feature in historical judgment there is nothing of such
+permanent value as a portrait. Obtain your conception (as, indeed, most boys
+do) of the English early sixteenth century from a text, then go and live with
+the Holbeins for a week and see what an enormously greater thing you will
+possess at the end of it. It is indeed one of the misfortunes of European
+history that from the fifth century to at least the eleventh we are, so far as
+Western European history is concerned, deprived of portraits. And by an
+interesting parallel the writers of the dark time seemed to have had neither
+the desire nor the gift of vivid description. Consider the dreariness of the
+hagiographers, every one of them boasting the noble rank and the conventional
+status of his hero, and you may say not one giving the least conception of the
+man’s personality. You have the great Gallo-Roman noble family of Ferreolus
+running down the centuries from the Decline of the Empire to the climax of
+Charlemagne. Many of those names stand for some most powerful individuality,
+yet all we have is a formula, a lineage, with symbols and names in the place of
+living beings, and even that established only by careful work, picking out and
+sifting relationships from various lives. The men of that time did not even
+think to tell us that there was such a thing as a family tradition, nor did it
+seem important to them to establish its Roman origin and its long succession in
+power.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Next it must be protested that the smallness and particularity of the questions
+upon which historical discussion rages are no proof either of its general
+purposelessness nor of <i>their</i> insignificance. All advance of knowledge
+proceeds in this fashion. Physical science affords innumerable examples of the
+way in which progress has depended upon a curiosity directed towards apparently
+insignificant things, and there is something in the mind which compels it to
+select a narrow field for the exercise of its acutest powers. Moreover, special
+points, discussion upon which must evidently be lengthy and may be indefinite,
+are peculiarly attractive to just that kind of man who by a love of prolonged
+research enlarges the bounds of knowledge and at the same time strengthens and
+improves for his fellows by continual exercise all the instruments of their
+common trade. Take, for instance, this case of the little Dauphin, Louis XVII.
+It really does not matter to day whether the boy got away or whether he died in
+prison. It does not prolong the line of the Capetians—the heir to that is
+present in the Duke of Orleans. It does not even affect our view of any other
+considerable part of history—save possibly the policy of Louis XVIII—and it is
+of no direct interest to our pockets or to our affections. Yet the masses of
+work which have accumulated round that one doubt have solved twenty other
+doubts. They have illuminated all the close of the Terror; they are beginning
+to make us understand that most difficult piece of political psychology, the
+reaction of Thermidor, and with it how Europeans lose their balance and regain
+it in the course of their quasi-religious wars; for all our wars have something
+in them of religion.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Three elements appear to enter into the judgment of history. First, there is
+the testimony of human witnesses; next, there are the non-human boundaries
+wherein the action took place, boundaries which, by all our experience, impose
+fixed limits to action; thirdly, there is that indefinable thing, that mystic
+power, which all nations deriving from the theology of the Western Church have
+agreed to call, with the schoolman, <i>common sense</i>; a general appreciation
+which transcends particular appreciations and which can integrate the
+differentials of evidence. Of this last it is quite impossible to afford a test
+or to construct a measure; its presence in an argument is none the less as
+readily felt as fresh air in a room; without it nothing is convincing however
+laboured, with it, even though it rely upon slight evidence, one has the
+feeling of walking on a firm road. But it must be “common sense”—it must be of
+the sort, that is, which is common to man various and general, and it is in
+this perhaps that history suffers most from the charlatanism and ritual common
+to all great matters.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Men will have pomp and mystery surrounding important things, and therefore the
+historians must, consciously or unconsciously, tend to strut, to quote solemn
+authorities in support, and to make out the vulgar unworthy of their
+confidence. Hence, by the way, the plague of footnotes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+These had their origin in two sources: the desire to show that one was honest
+and to prove it by a reference; the desire to elucidate some point which it was
+not easy to elucidate in the text itself without making the sentence too
+elaborate and clumsy. Either use may be seen at its best in Gibbon. With the
+last generation they have served mainly, and sometimes merely, for ritual
+adornment and terror, not to make clearer or more honest, but to deceive. Thus
+Taine in his monstrously false history of the Revolution revels in footnotes;
+you have but to examine a batch of them with care to turn them completely
+against his own conclusions—they are only put there as a sort of spiked paling
+to warn off trespassers. Or, again, M. Thibaut, who writes under the name of
+“Anatole France,” gives footnotes by the score in his romance of Joan of Arc,
+apparently not even caring to examine whether they so much as refer to his
+text, let alone support it. They seem to have been done by contract.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Another ailment in this department is the negative one, whereby an historian
+will leave out some aspect which to him, cramped in a study, seems unimportant,
+but which any plain man moving in the world would have told him to be the
+essential aspect of the whole matter. For instance, when Napoleon left Madrid
+on his forced march to intercept Sir John Moore before that general should have
+reached Benevente, he thought Moore was at Valladolid, when as a fact he was at
+Sahagun. In Mr. Oman’s history of the Peninsular War the error is put thus:
+“Napoleon had not the comparatively easy task of cutting the road between
+Valladolid and Astorga, but the much harder one of intercepting that between
+Sahagun and Astorga.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Why is this egregious nonsense? The facts are right and so are the dates and
+the names, yet it makes one blush for Oxford history. Why? Because the
+all-important element of <i>distance</i> is omitted. The very first question a
+plain man would ask about the case would be, “What were the distances
+involved?” The academic historian doesn’t know, or, at least, doesn’t say; yet
+without an appreciation of the distances the statement has no value. As a fact
+the distances were such that in the first case (supposing Moore had been at
+Valladolid) Napoleon would have had to cover nearly three miles to Moore’s one
+to intercept him—an almost superhuman task. In the second case (Moore being as
+a fact at Sahagun) he would have had to go over <i>four miles</i> to his
+opponent’s one—an absolutely impossible feat.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To march <i>three</i> miles to the enemy’s <i>one</i> is what Mr. Oman calls “a
+comparatively easy task”; to march four to his one is what Mr. Oman calls a
+“much harder” task; and to write like that is what an informed critic calls bad
+history.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The other two factors in an historical judgment can be more easily measured.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The non-human elements which, as I have said, are irremovable (save to
+miracle), are topography, climate, season, local physical conditions, and so
+forth. They have two valuable characters in aid of history; the first is that
+they correct the errors of human memory and support the accuracy of details;
+the second is that they enable us to complete a picture. We can by their aid
+“see” the physical framework in which an action took place, and such a
+landscape helps the judgment of things past as it does of things contemporary.
+Thus the map, the date, the soil, the contours of Crécy field make the
+traditional spot at which the King of Bohemia fell doubtful; the same factors
+make it certain that Drouet did not plunge haphazard through Argonne on the
+night of June 21, 1791, but that he must have gone by one path—which can be
+determined.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Or, again, take that prime question, why the Prussians did not charge at Valmy.
+On their failure to do so all the success of the Revolution turned. A man may
+read Dumouriez, Kellermann, Pully, Botidoux, Massenback, Goethe—there are fifty
+eye-witnesses at least whose evidence we can collect, and I defy anyone to
+decide. (Brunswick himself never knew.) But go to that roll of land between
+Valmy and the high road; go after three days’ rain as the allies did, and you
+will immediately learn. That field between the heights of “The Moon” and the
+site of old Valmy mill, which is as hard as a brick in summer (when the experts
+visit it), is a marsh of the worst under an autumn drizzle; no one could have
+charged.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As for human testimony, three things appear: first, that the witness is not, as
+in a law court, circumscribed. His relation may vary infinitely in degree of
+proximity of time or space to the action, from that of an eye-witness writing
+within the hour to that of a partisan writing at tenth hand a lifetime after.
+That question of proximity comes first, from the known action of the human mind
+whereby it transforms colours and changes remembered things. Next there is the
+character of the witness <i>for the purposes of his testimony</i>. Historians
+write, too often, as though virtue—or wealth (with which they often confound
+it)—were the test. It is not, short of a known motive for lying; a murderer or
+a thief casually witnessing to a thing with which he is familiar is worth more
+than the best man witnessing in a matter which he understands ill. It was this
+error which ruined Croker’s essay on Charlotte Robespierre’s Memoirs. Croker
+thought, perhaps wisely, that all radicals were scoundrels; he could not accept
+her editor’s evidence, and (by the way) the view of this amateur collector
+without a tincture of historical scholarship actually imposed itself on Europe
+for nearly seventy years!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And the third character in the witness is support: the support upon converging
+lines of other human testimony, most of it indifferent, some (this is
+essential) casual and by the way—deprived therefore of motive.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I shall find these canons satisfied to oppose the strong probability and
+tradition of the Dauphin’s death in prison I shall doubt that death, but not
+before.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap11">The Absence of the Past</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+It is perhaps not possible to put into human language that emotion which rises
+when a man stands upon some plot of European soil and can say with certitude to
+himself: “Such and such great, or wonderful, or beautiful things happened
+here.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Touch that emotion ever so lightly and it tumbles into the commonplace, and the
+deadest of commonplace. Neglect it ever so little and the Present (which is
+never really there, for even as you walk across Trafalgar Square it is
+yesterday and tomorrow that are in your mind), the Present, I say, or rather
+the immediate flow of things, occupies you altogether. But there is a mood, and
+it is a mood common in men who have read and who have travelled, in which one
+is overwhelmed by the sanctity of a place on which men have done this or that a
+long, long time ago.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here it is that the gentle supports which have been framed for human life by
+that power which launched it come in and help a man. Time does not remain, but
+space does, and though we cannot seize the Past physically we can stand
+physically upon the site, and we can have (if I may so express myself) a
+physical communion with the Past by occupying that very spot which the past
+greatness of man or of event has occupied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was but the other day that, with an American friend at my side, I stood
+looking at the little brass plate which says that here Charles Stuart faced (he
+not only faced, but he refused) the authority of his judges. I know not by what
+delicate mechanism of the soul that record may seem at one moment a sort of
+tourist thing, to be neglected or despised, and at another moment a portent.
+But I will confess that all of a sudden, pointing out this very well-known
+record upon the brass let into the stone in Westminster Hall, I suddenly felt
+the presence of the thing. Here all that business was done: they were alive;
+they were in the Present as we are. Here sat that tender-faced, courageous man,
+with his pointed beard and his luminous eyes; here he was a living man holding
+his walking-stick with the great jewel in the handle of it; here was spoken in
+the very tones of his voice (and how a human voice perishes!—how we forget the
+accents of the most loved and the most familiar voices within a few days of
+their disappearance!); here the small gestures, and all the things that make up
+a personality, marked out Charles Stuart. When the soul is seized with such
+sudden and positive conviction of the substantial past it is overwhelmed; and
+Europe is full of such ghosts.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As you take the road to Paradise, about halfway there you come to an inn, which
+even as inns go is admirable. You go into the garden of it, and see the great
+trees and the wall of Box Hill shrouding you all around. It is beautiful enough
+(in all conscience) to arrest one without the need of history or any admixture
+of the pride of race; but as you sit there on a seat in that garden you are
+sitting where Nelson sat when he said goodbye to his Emma, and if you will move
+a yard or two you will be sitting where Keats sat biting his pen and thinking
+out some new line of his poem.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What has happened? These two men with their keen, feminine faces, these two
+great heroes of a great time in the great story of a great people of this
+world, are not there. They are nowhere. But the site remains.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Philosophers can put in formulæ the crowd of suggestions that rush into the
+mind when one’s soul contemplates the perpetual march and passage of mortality.
+But they can do no more than give us formularies: they cannot give us replies.
+What are we? What is all this business? Why does the mere space remain and all
+the rest dissolve?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is a lonely place in the woods of Chilham, in the County of Kent, above
+the River Stour, where a man comes upon an irregular earthwork still plainly
+marked upon the brow of the bluff. Nobody comes near this place. A vague
+country lane, or rather track; goes past the wet soil of it, plunges into the
+valley beyond, and after serving a windmill joins the high road to Canterbury.
+Well, that vague track is the ancient British road, as old as anything in this
+Island, that took men from Winchester to the Straits of Dover. That earthwork
+is the earthwork (I could prove it, but this is not the place) where the
+British stood against the charge of the Tenth Legion, and first heard, sounding
+on their bronze, the arms of Caesar. Here the river was forded; here the little
+men of the South went up in formation; here the Barbarian broke and took his
+way, as the opposing General has recorded, through devious woodland paths,
+scattering in the pursuit; here began the great history of England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Is it not an enormous business merely to stand in such a place? I think so.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I know a field to the left of the Chalons Road, some few miles before you get
+to Ste. Menehould. There used to be an inn by the roadside called “The Sign of
+the Moon.” It has disappeared. There used to be a ramshackle windmill beyond
+the field, a mile or so from the road, on an upland swell of land, but that
+also has gone, and had been gone for some time before I knew the field of which
+I write. It is a bare fold of land with one or two little scrubby spinneys
+alongside the plough. And for the rest, just the brown earth and the sky. There
+are days on which you will see a man at work somewhere within that mile, others
+on which it is completely deserted. Here it is that the French Revolution was
+preserved. Here was the Prussian charge. On the deserted, ugly lump of empty
+earth beyond you were the three batteries that checked the invaders. It was all
+alive and crowded for one intense moment with the fate of Christendom. Here, on
+the place in which you are standing and gazing, young Goethe stood and gazed.
+That meaningless stretch of coarse grass supported Brunswick and the King of
+Prussia, and the brothers of the King of France, as they stood windswept in the
+rain, watching the failure of the charge. It is the field of Valmy. Turn on
+that height and look back westward and you see the plains rolling out
+infinitely; they are the plains upon which Attila was crushed; but there is no
+one there.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All men have remarked that night and silence are august, and I think that if
+this quality in night and silence be closely examined it will be found to
+consist, in part at least, in this: that either of them symbolizes Absence. By
+a paradox which I will not attempt to explain, but which all have felt, it is
+in silence and in darkness that the Past most vividly returns, and that this
+absence of what once was possesses, nay, obtrudes itself upon the mind: it
+becomes almost a sensible thing. There is much to be said for those who
+pretend, imagine, or perhaps have experienced under such conditions the return
+of the dead. The mood of darkness and of silence is a mood crammed with
+something that does not remain, as space remains, that is limited by time, and
+is a creature of time, and yet something that has an immortal right to remain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now, I suppose that in that sentence where I say things mortal have immortal
+rights to permanence, the core of the whole business is touched upon. And I
+suppose that the great men who could really think and did not merely fire off
+fireworks to dazzle their contemporaries—I suppose that Descartes, for
+instance, if he were here sitting at my table—could help me to solve that
+contradiction; but I sit and think and cannot solve it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“What,” says the man upon his own land, inherited perhaps and certainly
+intended for his posterity—“what! Can you separate me from this? Are not this
+and I bound up inextricably?” The answer is “No; you are not so far as any
+observer of this world can discover. Space is in no way possessed by man, and
+he who may render a site immortal in one of our various ways, the captain who
+there conquered, the poet who there established his sequence of words, cannot
+himself put forward a claim to permanence within it at all.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was a woman of charming vivacity, whose eyes were ever ready for
+laughter, and whose tone of address of itself provoked the noblest of replies.
+Many loved her; all admired. She passed (I will suppose) by this street or by
+that; she sat at table in such and such a house; Gainsborough painted her; and
+all that time ago there were men who had the luck to meet her and to answer her
+laughter with their own. And the house where she moved is there and the street
+in which she walked, and the very furniture she used and touched with her hands
+you may touch with your hands. You shall come into the rooms that she
+inhabited, and there you shall see her portrait, all light and movement and
+grace and beatitude.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+She is gone altogether, the voice will never return, the gestures will never be
+seen again. She was under a law; she changed, she suffered, she grew old, she
+died; and there was her place left empty. The not living things remain; but
+what counted, what gave rise to them, what made them all that they are, has
+pitifully disappeared, and the greater, the infinitely greater, thing was
+subject to a doom perpetually of change and at last of vanishing. The dead
+surroundings are not subject to such a doom. Why?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All those boys who held the line of the low ridge or rather swell of land from
+Hougoumont through the Belle Alliance have utterly gone. More than dust goes,
+more than wind goes; they will never be seen again. Their voices will never be
+heard—they are not. But what is the mere soil of the field without them? What
+meaning has it save for their presence?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I could wish to understand these things.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap12">St. Patrick</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+If there is one thing that people who are not Catholic have gone wrong upon
+more than another in the intellectual things of life, it is the conception of a
+Personality. They are muddled about it where their own little selves are
+concerned, they misappreciate it when they deal with the problems of society,
+and they have a very weak hold of it when they consider (if they do consider)
+the nature of Almighty God.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now, personality is everything. It was a Personal Will that made all things,
+visible and invisible. Our hope of immortality resides in this, that we are
+persons, and half our frailties proceed from a misapprehension of the awful
+responsibilities which personality involves or a cowardly ignorance of its
+powers of self-government.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The hundred and one errors which this main error leads to include a bad error
+on the nature of history. Your modern non-Catholic or anti-Catholic historian
+is always misunderstanding, underestimating, or muddling the role played in the
+affairs of men by great and individual Personalities. That is why he is so
+lamentably weak upon the function of legend; that is why he makes a fetish of
+documentary evidence and has no grip upon the value of tradition. For
+traditions spring from some personality invariably, and the function of legend,
+whether it be a rigidly true legend or one tinged with make-believe, is to
+interpret Personality. Legends have vitality and continue, because in their
+origin they so exactly serve to explain or illustrate some personal character
+in a man which no cold statement could give.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now St. Patrick, the whole story and effect of him, is a matter of Personality.
+There was once—twenty or thirty years ago—a whole school of dunderheads who
+wondered whether St. Patrick ever existed, because the mass of legends
+surrounding his name troubled them. How on earth (one wonders) do such scholars
+consider their fellow-beings! Have they ever seen a crowd cheering a popular
+hero, or noticed the expression upon men’s faces when they spoke of some friend
+of striking power recently dead? A great growth of legends around a man is the
+very best proof you could have not only of his existence but of the fact that
+he was an origin and a beginning, and that things sprang from his will or his
+vision. There were some who seemed to think it a kind of favour done to the
+indestructible body of Irish Catholicism when Mr. Bury wrote his learned
+Protestant book upon St. Patrick. It was a critical and very careful bit of
+work, and was deservedly praised; but the favour done us I could not see! It is
+all to the advantage of non-Catholic history that it should be sane, and that a
+great Protestant historian should make true history out of a great historical
+figure was a very good sign. It was a long step back towards common sense
+compared with the German absurdities which had left their victims doubting
+almost all the solid foundation of the European story; but as for us Catholics,
+we had no need to be told it. Not only was there a St. Patrick in history, but
+there is a St. Patrick on the shores of his eastern sea and throughout all
+Ireland to-day. It is a presence that stares you in the face, and physically
+almost haunts you. Let a man sail along the Leinster coast on such a day as
+renders the Wicklow Mountains clear up-weather behind him, and the Mourne
+Mountains perhaps in storm, lifted clearly above the sea down the wind. He is
+taking some such course as that on which St. Patrick sailed, and if he will
+land from time to time from his little boat at the end of each day’s sailing,
+and hear Mass in the morning before he sails further northward, he will know in
+what way St. Patrick inhabits the soil which he rendered sacred.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We know that among the marks of holiness is the working of miracles. Ireland is
+the greatest miracle any saint ever worked. It is a miracle and a nexus of
+miracles. Among other miracles it is a nation raised from the dead.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The preservation of the Faith by the Irish is an historical miracle comparable
+to nothing else in Europe. There never was, and please God never can be, so
+prolonged and insanely violent a persecution of men by their fellow-men as was
+undertaken for centuries against the Faith in Ireland: and it has completely
+failed. I know of no example in history of failure following upon such effort.
+It had behind it in combination the two most powerful of the evil passions of
+men, terror and greed. And so amazing is it that they did not attain their end,
+that perpetually as one reads one finds the authors of the dreadful business
+now at one period, now at another, assuming with certitude that their success
+is achieved. Then, after centuries, it is almost suddenly perceived—and in our
+own time—that it has not been achieved and never will be.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What a complexity of strange coincidences combined, coming out of nothing as it
+were, advancing like spirits summoned on to the stage, all to effect this end!
+Think of the American Colonies; with one little exception they were perhaps the
+most completely non-Catholic society of their time. Their successful rebellion
+against the mother country meant many things, and led to many prophecies. Who
+could have guessed that one of its chief results would be the furnishing of a
+free refuge for the Irish?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The famine, all human opinion imagined, and all human judgment was bound to
+conclude, was a mortal wound, coming in as the ally of the vile persecution I
+have named. It has turned out the very contrary. From it there springs
+indirectly the dispersion, and that power which comes from unity in dispersion,
+of Irish Catholicism.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Who, looking at the huge financial power that dominated Europe, and England in
+particular, during the youth of our own generation, could have dreamt that in
+any corner of Europe, least of all in the poorest and most ruined corner of
+Christendom, an effective resistance could be raised?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Behind the enemies of Ireland, furnishing them with all their modern strength,
+was that base and secret master of modern things, the usurer. He it was far
+more than the gentry of the island who demanded toll, and, through the
+mortgages on the Irish estates, had determined to drain Ireland as he has
+drained and rendered desert so much else. Is it not a miracle that he has
+failed?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Ireland is a nation risen from the dead; and to raise one man from the dead is
+surely miraculous enough to convince one of the power of a great spirit. This
+miracle, as I am prepared to believe, is the last and the greatest of St.
+Patrick’s.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I was last in Ireland, I bought in the town of Wexford a coloured picture
+of St. Patrick which greatly pleased me. Most of it was green in colour, and
+St. Patrick wore a mitre and had a crosier in his hand. He was turning into the
+sea a number of nasty reptiles: snakes and toads and the rest. I bought this
+picture because it seemed to me as modern a piece of symbolism as ever I had
+seen: and that was why I bought it for my children and for my home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was a few pence change, but I did not want it. The person who sold me the
+picture said they would spend the change in candles for St. Patrick’s altar. So
+St. Patrick is still alive.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap13">The Lost Things</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+I never remember an historian yet, nor a topographer either, who could tell me,
+or even pretend to explain by a theory, how it was that certain things of the
+past utterly and entirely disappear.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is a commonplace that everything is subject to decay, and a commonplace
+which the false philosophy of our time is too apt to forget. Did we remember
+that commonplace we should be a little more humble in our guesswork, especially
+where it concerns prehistory; and we should not make so readily certain where
+the civilization of Europe began, nor limit its immense antiquity. But though
+it is a commonplace, and a true one, that all human work is subject to decay,
+there seems to be an inexplicable caprice in the method and choice of decay.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Consider what a body of written matter there must have been to instruct and
+maintain the technical excellence of Roman work. What a mass of books on
+engineering and on ship-building and on road-making; what quantities of tables
+and ready-reckoners, all that civilization must have produced and depended
+upon. Time has preserved much verse, and not only the best by any means, more
+prose, particularly the theological prose of the end of the Roman time. The
+technical stuff, which must, in the nature of things, have been indefinitely
+larger in amount, has (save in one or two instances and allusions) gone.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Consider, again, all that mass of seven hundred years which was called
+Carthage. It was not only seven hundred years of immense wealth, of oligarchic
+government, of a vast population, and of what so often goes with commerce and
+oligarchy—civil and internal peace. A few stones to prove the magnitude of its
+municipal work, a few ornaments, a few graves—all the rest is absolutely gone.
+A few days’ marches away there is an example I have quoted so often elsewhere
+that I am ashamed of referring to it again, but it does seem to me the most
+amazing example of historical loss in the world. It is the site of Hippo
+Regius. Here was St. Augustine’s town, one of the greatest and most populous of
+a Roman province. It was so large that an army of eighty thousand men could not
+contain it, and even with such a host its siege dragged on for a year. There is
+not a sign of that great town today.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A suburb, well without the walls—to be more accurate, a neighbouring
+village—carries on the name under the form of Bona, and that is all. A vast,
+fertile plain of black rich earth, now largely planted with vineyards, stands
+where Hippo stood. How can the stones have gone? How can it have been worth
+while to cart away the marble columns? Why are there no broken statues on such
+a ground, and no relics of the gods?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Nay, the wells are stopped up from which the people drank, and the lining of
+the wells is not to be discovered in the earth, and the foundations of the
+walls, and even the ornaments of the people and their coins, all these have
+been spirited away.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then there are the roads. Consider that great road which reached from Amiens to
+the main port of Gaul, the Portus Itius at Boulogne. It is still in use. It was
+in use throughout the Middle Ages. Up that road the French Army marched to
+Crécy. It points straight to its goal upon the sea coast. Its whole purpose lay
+in reaching the goal. For some extraordinary reason, which I have never seen
+explained or even guessed at, there comes a point as it nears the coast where
+it suddenly ceases to be.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+No sand has blown over it. It runs through no marshes; the land is firm and
+fertile. Why should that, the most important section of the great road which
+led northward from Rome, have failed, and have failed so recently, in the
+history of man? Where this great road crosses streams and might reasonably be
+lost, at its <i>pontes</i>, its bridges, it has remained, and is of such
+importance as to have given a name to a whole countryside—<i>Ponthieu</i>. But
+north of that it is gone.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Nearly every Roman road of Gaul and Britain presents something of the same
+puzzle in some parts of its course. It will run clear and followable enough, or
+form a modern highway for mile upon mile, and then not at a marsh where one
+would expect its disappearance, nor in some desolate place where it might have
+fallen out of use, but in the neighbourhood of a great city and at the very
+chief of its purpose, it is gone. It is so with the Stane Street that led up
+from the garrison of Chichester and linked it with the garrison of London. You
+can reconstruct it almost to a yard until you reach Epsom Downs. There you find
+it pointing to London Bridge, and remaining as clear as in any other part of
+its course: much clearer than in most other sections. But try to follow it on
+from Epsom Racecourse, and you entirely fail. The soil is the same; the
+conditions of that soil are excellent for its retention; but a year’s work has
+taught me that there is no reconstructing it save by hypothesis and guesswork
+from this point to the crossing of the Thames.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What happened to all that mass of local documents whereby we ought to be able
+to build up the territorial scheme and the landed regime of old France? Much
+remains, if you will, in the shape of chance charters and family papers. Even
+in the archives of Paris you can get enough to whet your curiosity. But not
+even in one narrow district can you obtain enough to reconstruct the whole
+truth. There is not a scholar in Europe who can tell you exactly how land was
+owned and held, even, let us say, on the estates of Rheims or by the family of
+Condé. And men are ready to quarrel as to how many peasants owned and how much
+of their present ownership was due to the Revolution, evidence has already
+become so wholly imperfect in that tiny stretch of historical time.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But, after all, perhaps one ought not to wonder too much that material things
+should thus capriciously vanish. Time, which has secured Timgad so that it
+looks like an unroofed city of yesterday, has swept and razed Laimboesis. The
+two towns were neighbours—one was taken and the other left—and there is no sort
+of reason any man can give for it. Perhaps one ought not too much to wonder,
+for a greater wonder still is the sudden evaporation and loss of the great
+movements of the human soul. That what our ancestors passionately believed or
+passionately disputed should, by their descendants in one generation or in two,
+become meaningless, absurd, or false—this is the greatest marvel and the
+greatest tragedy of all.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap14">On the Reading of History</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Let me at the beginning of this short article present two facts to the reader.
+Neither can be disputed, and that is why I call them facts and put them in the
+forefront before I begin upon my theories.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The first fact is that the record of what men have done in the past and how
+they have done it is the chief positive guide to present action. The second
+fact is that most men must now receive the impression of the past through
+reading.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Put these two facts together and you get the fundamental truth that upon the
+right reading of history the right use of citizenship in England today will
+depend. It will of course depend upon other things as well: chiefly upon the
+human conscience; for if you were to pack off to an island a hundred families
+as ignorant as any human families can be of tradition, and wholly ignorant of
+positive history, those families would yet be able to create a human society
+and the voice of God within them would give just limits to their actions.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Still, of those factors in civic action amenable to civic direction, conscious
+and positively effective, there is nothing to compare with the right teaching
+and the right reading of history. Now teaching is today ruined. The old
+machinery by which the whole nation could be got to know all essential human
+things, has been destroyed, and the teaching of history in particular has been
+not only ruined but rendered ridiculous. There is no historical school properly
+so-called in modern England; that is, there is no organization framed with the
+sole object of extending and co-ordinating historical knowledge and of choosing
+men for their capacity to discover upon the one hand and to teach upon the
+other. There is nothing approaching to it in the two ancient universities,
+because the choice of teachers there depends upon a multitude of considerations
+quite separate from those mentioned, and the capacity to discover, to know, and
+to teach history, though it <i>may</i> be present in a tutor, will only be
+accidentally so present: while as for co-ordination of knowledge, there is no
+attempt at it. Even where very hard work is done, and, when it concerns local
+history, very useful work, history as a general study is not grasped because
+the universities have not grasped it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+History is to be had by the modern Englishman from his own reading only; and I
+am here concerned with the question how he shall read history with profit.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To read history with profit, history must be true, or at any rate the reader
+must have a power of discerning what is true in the midst of much that may be
+false. I will bargain, for instance, that in the summer of 1899 the great mass
+of men, and especially the great mass of men who had passed through the
+universities, were under the impression that armies had left England for the
+purpose of conquest in distant countries with invariable success: that that
+success had been unique, unsupported and always decisive, and that the wealth
+of the country after each success had increased, not diminished. In other
+words, had history been studied even by the tiny minority who have education
+today in England, Sir William Butler would have counted more than the Joels,
+and the late Mr. Barnato (as he called himself); the South African War would
+not have taken place in a society which knew its past.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Again, you may pick almost any phrase referring to the Middle Ages out of any
+newspaper—if you are a man read in the Middle Ages—and you will find in it not
+only a definite historical falsehood with regard to the fact referred to, or
+the analogy drawn, but also a false philosophy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For instance, the other day I read this phrase with regard to the burial of a
+certain gentleman of my neighbourhood in Sussex: “We are surely past the phase
+of mediaeval thought in which it was imagined that a few words spoken over the
+lifeless clay would determine the fate of the soul for all eternity.” Just
+notice the myriad falsehoods of a phrase like that! I will not discuss what is
+connoted by the words “past the phase of mediaeval thought”—it connotes of
+course that the human mind changes fundamentally with the centuries, and
+therefore that whatever we think is probably wrong, and that what we are sure
+of we cannot be sure of, an absurd conclusion. I will only note the historical
+falsehoods. When on earth did the “Middle Ages” lay down that a “few words over
+lifeless clay determined the fate of the soul for all eternity”? On the
+contrary, the Middle Ages laid it down—it was their peculiar doctrine—that it
+was impossible to determine the fate of the soul; that no one could tell the
+fate of any one individual soul; that it was a grievous sin, among the most
+grievous of sins, to affirm positive knowledge that any individual had lost his
+soul. More than this, the Middle Ages were peculiar in their insistence upon
+the doctrine that a man might have been very bad and might have had all the
+appearance of having lost his soul so far as human judgment went, and yet was
+liable to a midway place between salvation and damnation, and they affirmed
+that this midway place did not lead to either fate but necessarily to salvation
+and to salvation only.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Again, whatever could help the human soul to salvation was by the most rigorous
+theological definition of the Middle Ages applicable only before death. After
+death the fate of the soul was sealed, and the man once dead, the “lifeless
+clay” (as the journalist put it—and the Middle Ages was the only source from
+which he got the idea of clay at all), whether it were that of a Pope or of
+some random highwayman, had no effect whatsoever upon the fate of the soul. The
+greatest saint might have offered the most solemn sacrifice on its behalf for
+years, and if the soul were damned his sacrifice would have been of no avail.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have taken this example absolutely at random. But the modern reader, apart
+from sentences as clearly provocative of criticism as this, is perpetually
+coming across references, allusions, and parallels which take a certain course
+of human European and English history for granted. How is he to distinguish
+when that course is rightly drawn from when it is wrongly drawn?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus in some newspaper article written by an able man, and dealing, let us say,
+with the territorial army, one might come across a sentence like this:
+“Napoleon himself used troops so raw that they were actually drilled on the
+march to the battlefield.” That would be a perfectly true statement. Any amount
+of criticism of it lies in connexion with Mr. Haldane’s scheme, but still it is
+a true piece of history. Napoleon did get raw recruits into his battalions just
+before any one of his famous marches began, and drill them on the way to
+victory. In the next column of the newspaper the reader may be presented with a
+sentence like this: “The captures of English by privateers in the Revolutionary
+War should teach us what foreign cruisers can do.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were plenty of captures by privateers in the Revolutionary Wars; if I
+remember rightly, many many hundreds, all discreetly hidden from the common or
+garden reader until party politics necessitated their resurrection a hundred
+years after the event, but they have nothing whatsoever to do with modern
+circumstances.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Both statements are true then, and yet one can be truthfully applied today,
+while the other cannot.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+How is the plain reader to distinguish between two historical truths, one of
+which is a useful modern analogy, the other of which is a ludicrously
+misleading one?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The reader, it would seem, has no criterion by which to distinguish what has
+been withheld from him and what has been emphasized; he may, from his knowledge
+of the historian’s character or bias, stand upon his guard, but he can do
+little more.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is another difficulty. It is less subtle and less common, but it exists.
+I mean brute lying. You do not often get the lie direct in official history; it
+would be too dangerous a game to play in the face of the critics, though some
+historians, and notably the French historian Taine, have played it boldly
+enough, and have stated dogmatically, as historical happenings, things that
+never happened and that they knew never happened. But the plain or brute
+historical lie is more commonly found in the pages of ephemeral journalism.
+Thus the other day, with regard to the Budget, I saw some financial operation
+alluded to as comparable with “the pulling out of Jews’ teeth for money in the
+Middle Ages.” When did anyone in the Middle Ages pull out a Jew’s teeth for
+money? There is just one very doubtful story told about King John, and that
+story is told without proof by one of John’s worst enemies, in a mass of other
+accusations many of which can be proved to be false.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Again, I turn to an Oxford History of the French Revolution, and I find the
+remark that the massacres of September were organized by the men from
+Marseilles. They were not organized by the men from Marseilles. The men from
+Marseilles had nothing to do with them, and the fact has been public property
+since the publication of Pollio and Marcel’s monograph twenty years ago.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What criterion can the ordinary reader choose when he is confronted by
+difficulties of this sort? I will suggest to him one which seems to me by far
+the most valuable. It is the reading of firsthand authorities. It is all a
+matter of habit. When the original authorities upon which history is based were
+difficult to get at, when few of those in foreign tongues had been translated,
+and when those that had been published were published in the most expensive
+form, the ordinary reader had to depend upon an historian who would summarize
+for him the reading of another. The ordinary reader was compelled to read
+secondary history or none. Now secondary history is among the most valuable of
+literary efforts; where evidence is slight, the judgment of an historian who
+knows from other reading the general character of the period, is most valuable.
+Where evidence is abundant, and therefore confusing, the historian used to the
+selection and weighing of it performs a most valuable function. Still, the
+reader who is not acquainted with original authorities does not really know
+history and is at the mercy of whatever myth or tradition may be handed to him
+in print.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We should remember that today, even in England, original authorities are quite
+easy to get at. Two little books, for instance, occur to me out of hundreds:
+Mr. Rait’s book on Mary Stuart and Mr. Archer’s on the Third Crusade. In each
+of these the reader gets in a cheap form, in modern and readable English, the
+kind of evidence upon which historians base their history, and he can use that
+evidence in the light of his own knowledge of human nature and his own judgment
+of human life.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Or again, if he wants to know what the Romans really knew or said they knew
+about the German tribes who, as pirates, so greatly influenced the history of
+England, let him get Mr. Rouse’s edition of Grenewey’s translation of the
+Germania in Blackie’s series of English texts; it will only cost sixpence, and
+for that money he will get a bit of Caesar’s Gallic War and the Agricola as
+well. But the list nowadays is a very long one, luckily, and the lay reader has
+only to choose what period he would like to read up, and he will find for
+nearly every one first-hand evidence ready, cheap and published in a readable
+modern form. That he should take such first-hand evidence is the very best
+advice that any honest historian can give.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap15">The Victory</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+The study of history, like the exploration, the thorough exploration, of any
+other field, leads one to perpetual novelties, miracles, and unexpected things;
+and I, in the study of the revolutionary wars, came across the story of a
+battle which completely possessed my spirit.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It would not be to my purpose here to give its name. It is not among the most
+famous; it is not Waterloo, nor Leipsic, nor Austerlitz, nor even Jemappes. The
+more I read into the night the more I perceived that upon the issue of that
+struggle depended the fate of the modern world. So completely did the notes of
+Carnot and a few private letters that had been put before me absorb my
+attention that I will swear the bugle-calls of those two days (for it was a
+two-days’ struggle) sounded more clearly in my ears than the rumble of the
+London streets, and, as this died out with the advance of the night and the
+approach of morning, I was living entirely upon that ridge in Flanders,
+watching, as a man watches an arena, whether the new things or the old should
+be victorious. It was the new that conquered.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From that evening I was determined to visit this place of which so far I had
+but read, and to see how far it might agree with the vision I had had of it,
+and to people actual fields with the ghosts of dead soldiers. And for the
+better appreciation of the drama I chose the season and the days on which the
+fight had been driven across that rolling land, and I came there, as the
+Republicans had come, a little before the dawn.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The hillside was silent and deserted, more even than are commonly such places,
+though silence and desertion seem the common atmosphere of all the fields on
+which such fates have been decided. A man looking over Carthage Bay, especially
+a man looking at those sodden pools that were the sound harbours of Carthage,
+might be in an uninhabited world; and the loop of the Trebbia is the same, and
+the edge of Fontenoy; and even here in England that hillside looking south up
+which the Normans charged at Battle is a quiet and a drowsy sort of place....
+So it was here in Flanders.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For two miles as I ascended by the little sunken lane which the extreme right
+wing had followed in the last attack I saw neither man nor beast, but only the
+same stubble of the same autumn fields, and the same colder sun shining upon
+the empty uplands until I reached the crest where the Hungarian and the Croat
+had met the charge, and had disputed the little village for two hours—a dispute
+upon which hung your fate and mine and that of Europe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a tiny little village, seven or eight houses together and no more, with
+a crazy little wooden steeple to its church all twisted awry, large barns, and
+comfortable hedgerows of the Northern kind; and from it one looked out
+westwards over an infinity of country, following low crest after low crest,
+down on to the French plains. I went into the inn of the place to drink, and
+found the cobbler there complaining that wealth disturbed the natural equality
+of men. Then I wandered out, pacing this point and that which I knew accurately
+from my maps, and thinking of the noise of the war. Behind the little church,
+upon a ramshackle green not large enough to pitch the stumps for single-wicket,
+was the modest monument, a cock in bronze, crowing, and the word “Victory”
+stamped into the granite of the pedestal; the whole thing, I suppose, not ten
+feet high. The bronze was very well done; it savoured strongly of Paris and
+looked odd in this abandoned little place. But every time my eyes sank from the
+bronze, to look at some other point in the landscape to identify the
+emplacement of such and such a battery or the gully that had concealed the
+advance of such and such a troop, my glance perpetually returned to that word
+“VICTORY,” sculptured by itself upon the stone. It was indeed a victory; it was
+a victory which, for its huge unexpectedness, for the noise of it, for the
+length of time during which it was in doubt, for its final success, there is no
+parallel, and yet it is by no means among the famous battles of the world. And
+though the French count it one among the thousand of their battles, I doubt
+whether even in Paris most men would recognize it for the hammer-blow it was.
+The men of the time hardly knew it, though Carnot guessed at it, and now to-day
+in Sorbonne I think that regal fight is taking its true place.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So I went down the eight miles of front northward along the ridge; for even
+that battle, a hundred and more years ago, had an extended front of this kind.
+I recognized the tall majestic fringe of beeches from which had issued the last
+of the Royalist regiments bearing for the last time upon a European field the
+white flag of the Bourbon Monarchy; I came beyond it to the combe fringed with
+its semicircle of underbrush in which Coburg had massed his guns in the last
+effort to break the French centre when his flank was turned. I came to the main
+highway, very broad, straight, and paved, which cuts this battlefield in two,
+and then beyond it to the central position whose capture had made the final
+manoeuvre possible.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All Wednesday the Grenadiers, German, tall, padded, smart, and stout, had held
+their ground. It was not until Thursday, and by noon, that they were slowly
+driven up the hill by the ragged lads, the Gauls, shoeless, some not in uniform
+at all, half-mutinous, drunk with pain and glory. And I remembered, as the
+scene returned to me, that this battle, like so many of the Revolution, had
+been a battle of men against boys; how grey and veteran and trained in arms
+were the Austrians and the Prussians, their allies, how strict in orders, how
+calm: and what children the Terror had called up by force from the exhausted
+fields of remote French provinces, to break them here against the frontier,
+like water against a wall...!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was a little chap, twelve years old, a drummer; he had crept and crawled
+by hedgerows till he found himself behind the line of those volleying
+Grenadiers. There, “before his side,” and breaking all rules, he had sounded
+the roll of the charge. They cut him down and killed him, and the roll of his
+drum ceased hard. A generation or more later, digging for foundations at this
+spot, the builders of the Peace came upon his bones, the little bones of a
+child heaped pell-mell with skeletons of the fallen giants round him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I went back into the town in whose defence the battle had been waged, and there
+I saw again in bronze this little lad, head high and mouth open, a-beating of
+his drum, and again the word “VICTORY.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All that effort was undertaken, all those young men and children killed, for
+something that was to happen for the salvation of the world; it has not come.
+All that iron resistance of the German line had been forged and organized till
+it almost conquered, till it almost thwarted, the Republic, and it also had
+been organized for the defence, and, as some thought, for the salvation, of the
+world. Some great good was to have come by the storming of that hill, or some
+great good by the defeat of the impetuous charge. Well, the hill was stormed,
+and (if you will) at Leipsic the effort which had stormed it was rolled back.
+What has happened to the High Goddess whom that youth followed, and worshipped
+as they say, and what to the Gods whom their enemies defended? The ridge is
+exactly the same.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap16">Reality</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+A couple of generations ago there was a sort of man going mournfully about who
+complained of the spread of education. He had an ill-ease in his mind. He
+feared that book learning would bring us no good, and he was called a fool for
+his pains. Not undeservedly—for his thoughts were muddled, and if his heart was
+good it was far better than his head. He argued badly or he merely affirmed,
+but he had strong allies (Ruskin was one of them), and, like every man who is
+sincere, there was something in what he said; like every type which is
+numerous, there was a human feeling behind him: and he was very numerous.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now that he is pretty well extinct we are beginning to understand what he meant
+and what there was to be said for him. The greatest of the French
+Revolutionists was right—“After bread, the most crying need of the populace is
+knowledge.” But what knowledge?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The truth is that secondary impressions, impressions gathered from books and
+from maps, are valuable as adjuncts to primary impressions (that is,
+impressions gathered through the channel of our senses), or, what is always
+almost as good and sometimes better, the interpreting voice of the living man.
+For you must allow me the paradox that in some mysterious way the voice and
+gesture of a living witness always convey something of the real impression he
+has had, and sometimes convey more than we should have received ourselves from
+our own sight and hearing of the thing related.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, I say, these secondary impressions are valuable as adjuncts to primary
+impressions. But when they stand absolute and have hardly any reference to
+primary impressions, then they may deceive. When they stand not only absolute
+but clothed with authority, and when they pretend to convince us even against
+our own experience, they are positively undoing the work which education was
+meant to do. When we receive them merely as an enlargement of what we know and
+make of the unseen things of which we read, things in the image of the seen,
+then they quite distort our appreciation of the world.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Consider so simple a thing as a river. A child learns its map and knows, or
+thinks it knows, that such and such rivers characterize such and such nations
+and their territories. Paris stands upon the River Seine, Rome upon the River
+Tiber, New Orleans on the Mississippi, Toledo upon the River Tagus, and so
+forth. That child will know one river, the river near his home. And he will
+think of all those other rivers in its image. He will think of the Tagus and
+the Tiber and the Seine and the Mississippi—and they will all be the river near
+his home. Then let him travel, and what will he come across? The Seine, if he
+is from these islands, may not disappoint him or astonish him with a sense of
+novelty and of ignorance. It will indeed look grander and more majestic, seen
+from the enormous forest heights above its lower course, than what, perhaps, he
+had thought possible in a river, but still it will be a river of water out of
+which a man can drink, with clear-cut banks and with bridges over it, and with
+boats that ply up and down. But let him see the Tagus at Toledo, and what he
+finds is brown rolling mud, pouring solid after the rains, or sluggish and
+hardly a river after long drought. Let him go down the Tiber, down the Valley
+of the Tiber, on foot, and he will retain until the last miles an impression of
+nothing but a turbid mountain torrent, mixed with the friable soil in its bed.
+Let him approach the Mississippi in the most part of its long course and the
+novelty will be more striking still. It will not seem to him a river at all (if
+he be from Northern Europe); it will seem a chance flood. He will come to it
+through marshes and through swamps, crossing a deserted backwater, finding firm
+land beyond, then coming to further shallow patches of wet, out of which the
+tree-stumps stand, and beyond which again mud-heaps and banks and groups of
+reeds leave undetermined, for one hundred yards after another, the limits of
+the vast stream. At last, if he has a boat with him, he may make some place
+where he has a clear view right across to low trees, tiny from their distance,
+similarly half swamped upon a further shore, and behind them a low escarpment
+of bare earth. That is the Mississippi nine times out of ten, and to an
+Englishman who had expected to find from his early reading or his maps a larger
+Thames it seems for all the world like a stretch of East Anglian flood, save
+that it is so much more desolate.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The maps are coloured to express the claims of Governments. What do they tell
+you of the social truth? Go on foot or bicycling through the more populated
+upland belt of Algiers and discover the curious mixture of security and war
+which no map can tell you of and which none of the geographies make you
+understand. The excellent roads, trodden by men that cannot make a road; the
+walls as ready loopholed for fighting; the Christian church and the mosque in
+one town; the necessity for and the hatred of the European; the indescribable
+difference of the sun, which here, even in winter, has something malignant
+about it, and strikes as well as warms; the mountains odd, unlike our
+mountains; the forests, which stand as it were by hardihood, and seem at war
+against the influence of dryness and the desert winds, with their trees far
+apart, and between them no grass, but bare earth alone.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So it is with the reality of arms and with the reality of the sea. Too much
+reading of battles has ever unfitted men for war; too much talk of the sea is a
+poison in these great town populations of ours which know nothing of the sea.
+Who that knows anything of the sea will claim certitude in connexion with it?
+And yet there is a school which has by this time turned its mechanical system
+almost into a commonplace upon our lips, and talks of that most perilous thing,
+the fortunes of a fleet, as though it were a merely numerical and calculable
+thing! The greatest of Armadas may set out and not return.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is one experience of travel and of the physical realities of the world
+which has been so widely repeated, and which men have so constantly verified,
+that I could mention it as a last example of my thesis without fear of
+misunderstanding. I mean the quality of a great mountain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To one that has never seen a mountain it may seem a full and a fine piece of
+knowledge to be acquainted with its height in feet exactly, its situation; nay,
+many would think themselves learned if they know no more than its conventional
+name. But the thing itself! The curious sense of its isolation from the common
+world, of its being the habitation of awe, perhaps the brooding-place of a god!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had seen many mountains, I had travelled in many places, and I had read many
+particular details in the books—and so well noted them upon the maps that I
+could have re-drawn the maps—concerning the Cerdagne. None the less the sight
+of that wall of the Cerdagne, when first it struck me, coming down the pass
+from Tourcarol, was as novel as though all my life had been spent upon empty
+plains. By the map it was 9000 feet. It might have been 90,000! The wonderment
+as to what lay beyond, the sense that it was a limit to known things, its
+savage intangibility, its sheer silence! Nothing but the eye seeing could give
+one all those things.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The old complain that the young will not take advice. But the wisest will tell
+them that, save blindly and upon authority, the young cannot take it. For most
+of human and social experience is words to the young, and the reality can come
+only with years. The wise complain of the jingo in every country; and properly,
+for he upsets the plans of statesmen, miscalculates the value of national
+forces, and may, if he is powerful enough, destroy the true spirit of armies.
+But the wise would be wiser still if, while they blamed the extravagance of
+this sort of man, they would recognize that it came from that half-knowledge of
+mere names and lists which excludes reality. It is maps and newspapers that
+turn an honest fool into a jingo.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is so again with distance, and it is so with time. Men will not grasp
+distance unless they have traversed it, or unless it be represented to them
+vividly by the comparison of great landscapes. Men will not grasp historical
+time unless the historian shall be at the pains to give them what historians so
+rarely give, the measure of a period in terms of a human life. It is from
+secondary impressions divorced from reality that a contempt for the past
+arises, and that the fatal illusion of some gradual process of betterment of
+“progress” vulgarizes the minds of men and wastes their effort. It is from
+secondary impressions divorced from reality that a society imagines itself
+diseased when it is healthy, or healthy when it is diseased. And it is from
+secondary impressions divorced from reality that springs the amazing power of
+the little second-rate public man in those modern machines that think
+themselves democracies. This last is a power which, luckily, cannot be greatly
+abused, for the men upon whom it is thrust are not capable even of abuse upon a
+great scale. It is none the less marvellous in its falsehood.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now you will say at the end of this, Since you blame so much the power for
+distortion and for ill residing in our great towns, in our system of primary
+education and in our papers and in our books, what remedy can you propose? Why,
+none, either immediate or mechanical. The best and the greatest remedy is a
+true philosophy, which shall lead men always to ask themselves what they really
+know and in what order of certitude they know it; where authority actually
+resides and where it is usurped. But, apart from the advent, or rather the
+recapture, of a true philosophy by a European society, two forces are at work
+which will always bring reality back, though less swiftly and less whole. The
+first is the poet, and the second is Time.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Sooner or later Time brings the empty phrase and the false conclusion up
+against what is; the empty imaginary looks reality in the face and the truth at
+once conquers. In war a nation learns whether it is strong or no, and how it is
+strong and how weak; it learns it as well in defeat as in victory. In the long
+processes of human lives, in the succession of generations, the real
+necessities and nature of a human society destroy any false formula upon which
+it was attempted to conduct it. Time must always ultimately teach.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The poet, in some way it is difficult to understand (unless we admit that he is
+a seer), is also very powerful as the ally of such an influence. He brings out
+the inner part of things and presents them to men in such a way that they
+cannot refuse but must accept it. But how the mere choice and rhythm of words
+should produce so magical an effect no one has yet been able to comprehend, and
+least of all the poets themselves.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap17">On the Decline of the Book: [And Especially of the
+Historical Book]</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+It is an interesting speculation by what means the Book lost its old position
+in this country. This is not only an interesting speculation, but one which
+nearly concerns a vital matter. For if men fall into the habit of neglecting
+true books in an old and traditional civilization, the inaccuracy of their
+judgments and the illusions to which they will be subject, must increase.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To take but one example: history. The less the true historical book is read and
+the more men depend upon ephemeral statement, the more will legend crystallize,
+the harder will it be to destroy in the general mind some comforting lie, and
+the great object-lesson of politics (which is an accurate knowledge of how men
+have acted in the past) will become at last unknown.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There are many, especially among younger men, who would contest the premiss
+upon which all this is founded. They may point out, for instance, that the
+actual number of bound books bought in a given time at present is much larger
+than ever it was before. They may point out again, and with justice, that the
+proportion of the population which reads books of any sort, though perhaps not
+larger than it was three hundred years ago, is very much larger than it was one
+hundred years ago. And it may further be affirmed with truth that the range of
+subjects now covered by books produced and sold is much wider than ever it was
+before.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All this is true; and yet it is also true that the Book as a factor in our
+civilization has not only declined but has almost disappeared. Were many more
+dogs to be possessed in England than are now possessed, but were they to be all
+mongrels, among which none could be found capable of retrieving, or of
+following a fox or a hare with any discipline, one would have a right to say
+that the dog as a factor of our civilization had declined. Were many more men
+in England able to ride horses more or less, but were the number of those who
+rode constantly and for pleasure enormously to diminish, and were the new
+millions who could just manage to keep on horseback to prefer animals without
+spirit on which they would feel safe, one would have a right to say that the
+horse was declining as a factor in our civilization; and this is exactly what
+has happened with the Book.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The excellence of a book and its value as a book depend upon two factors, which
+are usually, though not always, united in varied proportions: first, that it
+should put something of value to the reader, whether of value as a discovery
+and an enlargement of wisdom or of value as a new emphasis laid upon old and
+sound morals; secondly, that this thing added or renewed in human life should
+be presented in such a manner as to give permanent aesthetic pleasure.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+That is not a first-rate book which, while it is admirably written, teaches
+something false or something evil; nor is that a first-rate book which, though
+it discover a completely new thing, or emphasize the most valuable department
+of morals, is so constructed as to be unreadable. Now it will not be denied
+that as far as these two factors are concerned—and I repeat they are almost
+always found in combination—the position of the Book has dwindled almost to
+nothingness. One could give examples of almost every kind: one could show how
+poetry, no matter how appreciated or praised, no longer sells. One could
+show—and this is one of the worst signs of all—how men will buy by the hundred
+thousand anything at all which has the hall mark of an established reputation,
+quite careless as to their love of it or their appetite for it. One could
+further show how more than one book of permanent value in English life has been
+discovered in our generation outside England, and has been as it were thrust
+upon the English public by foreign opinion.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But for my purpose it will be sufficient to take one very important branch
+which I can claim to have watched with some care, and that is the branch of
+History.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It may be said with truth that in our generation no single first-rate piece of
+history has enjoyed an appreciable sale. That is not true of France, it is not
+true of the United States, it is not even true of Germany in her intellectual
+decline, but it is true of England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+History is an excellent test. No man will read history, at least history of an
+instructive sort, unless he is a man who can read a book, and desires to
+possess one. To read History involves not only some permanent interest in
+things not immediately sensible, but also some permanent brain-work in the
+reader; for as one reads history one cannot, if one is an intelligent being,
+forbear perpetually to contrast the lessons it teaches with the received
+opinions of our time. Again, History is valuable as an example in the general
+thesis I am maintaining, because no good history can be written without a great
+measure of hard work. To make a history at once accurate, readable, useful, and
+new, is probably the hardest of all literary efforts; a man writing such
+history is driving more horses abreast in his team than a man writing any other
+kind of literary matter. He must keep his imagination active; his style must be
+not only lucid, but also must arrest the reader; he must exercise perpetually a
+power of selection which plays over innumerable details; he must, in the midst
+of such occupations, preserve unity of design, as much as must the novelist or
+the playwright; and yet with all this there is not a verb, an adjective or a
+substantive which, if it does not repose upon established evidence, will not
+mar the particular type of work on which he is engaged.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As an example of what I mean, consider two sentences: The first is taken from
+the 432nd page of that exceedingly unequal publication, the <i>Cambridge
+History of the French Revolution</i>; the second I have made up on the spur of
+the moment; both deal with the Battle of Wattignies. The “Cambridge History”
+version runs as follows:—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On October 15 the relieving force, 50,000 strong, attacked the Austrian
+covering force at Wattignies; the battle raged all that day and was most
+furious on the right, in front of the village of Wattignies, which was taken
+and lost three times; on the 17th the French expected another general
+engagement but the enemy had drawn off.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There are here five great positive errors in six lines. The French were not
+50,000 strong, the attack on the 15th was not on Wattignies, but on Dourlers;
+Wattignies was not taken and lost three times; the fight of the 15th was
+<i>least</i> pressed on the right (harder on the left and hardest in the
+centre) and no one—not the least recruit—expected Coburg to come <i>back</i> on
+the 17th. Why, he had crossed the Sambre at every point the day before! As for
+negative errors, or errors of omission, they are capital, and the chief is that
+the victory was won on the second day, the 16th, of which no mention is made.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now contrast such a sentence with the following:—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On October 15th the relieving force, 42,000 strong, attacked the Austrian
+centre at Dourlers, and made demonstrations upon its wings; the attack upon
+Dourlers (which village had been taken and lost three times) having failed,
+upon the following day, October 16th, the extreme left of the enemy’s position
+at Wattignies was attacked and carried; the enemy thus outflanked was compelled
+to retreat, and Maubeuge was relieved the same evening.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the first sentence (which bears the hall mark of the University) every error
+that could possibly be made in so few lines has been made. The numbers are
+wrong; the nature of the fighting is misstated; the village in the centre is
+confused with that on the extreme right; the critical second day is altogether
+omitted, and every portion of the sentence, verb, adjective, and substantive,
+is either directly inaccurate or indirectly conveys an inaccurate impression.
+The second sentence, bald in style and uninteresting in presentation as the
+first, has the merit of telling the truth. But—and here is the point—it would
+be impossible to criticize the first sentence unless someone had read up the
+battle, and to read up that battle one has to depend on five or six documents,
+some unpublished (like much of Jourdan’s Memoirs), some of them involving a
+visit to Maubeuge itself, some, like Pierrat’s book, very difficult to obtain
+(for it is neither in the British Museum nor in the Bodleian) some few the
+writings of contemporary eyewitnesses, and yet themselves demonstrably
+inaccurate. All these must be read and collated, and if possible the actual
+ground of the battle visited, before the first simple inaccurate sentence can
+be properly criticized or the second bald but accurate sentence framed. None of
+these authorities can have been so much as heard of by the official historian I
+have quoted.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It would be redundant to press the point. Most readers know well enough what
+labour the just writing of history involves, and how excellent a type it is of
+that “making of a book” which art is, as I have said, imperilled by apathy at
+the present day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Consider for a moment who were those that purchased historical works in this
+country in the past. There were, first of all, the landed gentry. In almost
+every great country-house you will find a good old library, and that good old
+library you will discover to be, as a rule, most valuable and most complete in
+what concerns the end of the eighteenth and the beginning of the nineteenth
+centuries. A very large proportion of history, and history of the best sort, is
+to be found upon those shelves. The standard dwindles, though it is fairly well
+maintained during the first two-thirds of the nineteenth century. Then—as a
+rule—it abruptly comes to an end. One may take as a sort of bourne, the two
+great books Macaulay’s <i>History</i> and Kinglake’s, for an earlier and a
+later limit. Most of these libraries contain Macaulay; some few Kinglake;
+hardly one possesses later works of value.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It may be urged in defence of the buyer that no later works of value exist. Put
+so broadly, the statement is erroneous; but the truth which it contains is in
+itself dependent upon the lack of public support for good historical work. When
+there is a fortune for the man who writes in accordance with whatever form of
+self-appreciation happens for the moment to be popular, while a steady view and
+an accurate presentation of the past can find no sale, then that steady view
+and that accurate presentation cannot be pursued save by men who are wealthy,
+or by men who are endowed, but even wealthy men will hesitate to write what
+they know will not be read, and for history no one is endowed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Our Universities were framed for many purposes, of which the cultivation of
+learning was but one; in that one field, however, a particular form of learning
+was taken very seriously, and was pursued with admirable industry; I mean an
+acquaintance with and an imitation of the Latin and Greek Classics.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a particular character of this form of learning that proficiency in it
+would lead to undisputed honours. The scholar recognized the superior scholar;
+the field of inquiry was by convention highly limited; it had been thoroughly
+explored; discussion upon such results as were doubtful did not involve a
+difference in general philosophy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+With history it is otherwise. Whether such things have or have not happened,
+and, above all, if they have happened, the <i>way</i> in which they have
+happened, is to our general judgment of contemporary men what evidence is to a
+criminal trial. Facts won’t give way. If, therefore, there are vested
+interests, moral or material, to be maintained, history is, of all the sciences
+or arts, that one most likely to suffer at the hands of those connected with
+such interests. Even where the truth will be of advantage to those interests,
+they are afraid of it, because the thorough discussion of it will involve the
+presentation of views disadvantageous to privilege.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Where, as is much more commonly the case (for vested interests, moral or
+material, are unreasoning and selfish things), the truth would certainly offend
+them, they are the more determined to prevent its appearance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But of all vested interests none deal with such assured incomes, none are so
+immune by influence and tradition as the Universities.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now, if the rich man has no temptation by way of popular fame, and the poor man
+no opportunity for endowment, in any branch of letters, there remains but a
+third form of support, and that is the support of the buying public. And the
+public will not buy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I will suppose the case of a popular novelist, who in a few months shall write,
+not an historical novel, but a piece of so-called history. He shall call it,
+for instance, “England’s Heroes.” Before you tell me his name, or what he has
+written, I can tell you here and now what he will write on any number of
+points. He will call Hastings Senlac. In the Battle of Hastings he will make
+out Harold to be the head of a highly patriotic nation called the
+“Anglo-Saxons”; they shall be desperately defending themselves against certain
+French-speaking Scandinavians called Normans. He will deplore the defeat, but
+will say it was all for the best. Magna Charta he will have signed at
+Runnymede—probably he will have it drawn up there as well. He will translate
+the most famous clause by the modern words “Judgment of his peers” and “law of
+the land.” He will represent the Barons as having behind them the voice of the
+whole nation—and so forth. When he comes to Crécy he will make Edward III speak
+English. When he comes to Agincourt he will leave his readers as ignorant as
+himself upon the boundaries, numbers and power of the Burgundian faction. In
+the Civil War Oliver Cromwell will be an honest and not very rich gentleman of
+the middle-classes. The Parliamentary force will be that of the mass of the
+people against a few gallant but wicked aristocrats who follow the perfidious
+Charles. He will make no mention of the pay of the Ironsides. James II will be
+driven out by a popular uprising, in which the great Churchill will play an
+honourable and chivalric part. The loss of the American Colonies will be
+deplored, and will be ascribed to the folly of attempting to tax men of
+“Anglo-Saxon” blood, unless you grant them representation. The Continental
+troops will be treated as the descendants of Englishmen! The guns at Saratoga
+will be Colonial guns; the incapacity of the Fleet will not be touched upon.
+Here again, as in the case of the Battle of Hastings, all will be for the best,
+and there will be a few touching words upon the passionate affection now felt
+for Great Britain by the inhabitants of the United States. The defensive genius
+of Wellington will be represented as that of a general particularly great in
+the offensive. Talavera will be a victory. The Spanish Auxiliaries in the
+Peninsula will be contemptible. No guns will be abandoned before Coruña, but
+what are left at Coruña will be mentioned and re-embarked. The character of
+Nelson will receive a curious sort of glutinous praise; Emma Hamilton, not
+Naples, will be the stain upon his name; the Battle of Trafalgar will prevent
+the invasion of England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This is a lengthy but not unjust description of what this gentleman would
+write; it is rubbish from beginning to end. It would sell, because every word
+of it would foster in the reader the illusion that the community of which he is
+a member is invincible under all circumstances, that effort and self-denial and
+suffering are spared him alone out of all mankind, and that a little
+pleasurable excitement, preferably that to be obtained from his favourite game,
+is the chief factor in military success.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have omitted Alfred. Alfred in such a book will be the “teller of truth”—but
+he will not go to Mass.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Given that the name is sufficiently well known, there is hardly any limit to
+the sale of a book modelled upon these lines. Contrast with its fate the fate
+of a book, written no matter how powerfully, that should insist upon truths, no
+matter how valuable to the English people at the present moment. These truths
+need by no means be unpleasant, though at the present moment an unpleasant
+truth is undoubtedly more valuable than a pleasant one. They could make as much
+or more for the glory of the country; they could be at any rate of infinitely
+greater service, but they would not be received, simply because they would
+compel close attention and brain-work in the reader as well as in the writer of
+them. An established groove would have to be abandoned; to use a strong
+metaphor, the reader would have to get out of bed, and that is what the modern
+reader will not do. Tell him that the men who fought on either side at
+Hastings’ plain cared nothing for national but everything for feudal
+allegiance; that <i>lex terrae</i> means the local custom of ordeal and not the
+“law of the land”; tell him that <i>judicium parium</i> means the right of a
+noble to be judged by nobles, and has nothing to do with the jury system; tell
+him that Magna Charta was certainly drawn up before the meeting at Runnymede;
+that not until the Lancastrians did English kings speak English; that Oliver
+Cromwell owed his position to the enormous wealth of the Williamses, of whom
+had he not been a cadet, he would never have been known; tell him that the
+whole force of the Parliament resided in the squires and that the Civil Wars
+turned England into an oligarchy; tell him the exact truth about the infamy of
+Churchill; tell him what proportion of Englishmen during the American War were
+taxed without being represented; tell him what proportion of Washington’s
+troops were of English blood; tell him any one illuminating and true thing
+about the history of his country, and the novelty will so offend him that a
+direct insult would have pleased him better.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What is true of history is true of nearly all the rest, and the upshot of the
+whole matter is that there is not, either in private patronage or in popular
+demand, a chance for history in modern England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You can have excellent literature in journalism, and it will be widely read. I
+would say more—I would say that the better literature a newspaper admits, the
+more widely will that paper be read, or at any rate the greater will its
+influence be on modern Englishmen. But when it comes to the kneaded and wrought
+matter of the true Book, neither the public nor the centres of learning will
+have any of it, and the last medium which might make it possible, patronage,
+has equally disappeared, because the modern patron does not work in the
+daylight in the full view of the nation and with its full approbation, and he
+is no longer a public man (though he is richer than ever he was before). His
+patronage, therefore, though it is still considerable, is expended in
+satisfying his private demand. Private architects build him doubtful castles,
+private collectors get him manuscripts and jewels, but Letters, which are a
+public thing, he can no longer command.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It might be asked, by way of conclusion, whether there is any remedy for this
+state of things. There is none. Its prime cause resides in a certain attitude
+of the national mind, and this kind of broadly held philosophy is not changed
+save by slow preaching or external shock. As long as modern England remains
+what we know it, and follows the lines of change which we see it following, the
+Book will necessarily decline more and more, and we must make up our minds to
+it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Of other evil tendencies of our time, one can say of some that they are
+obviously mending, of others that such and such an applicable remedy would mend
+them. Our public architecture is certainly getting better; so is our painting.
+Our gross and increasing contempt of self-government (to take quite another
+sphere) is curable by one or two simple reforms in procedure, registration, the
+expenses of election, and voting at the polls, which would restore the House of
+Commons to life, and give it power to express English will. But a regard for, a
+cultivation of, above all a sinking of wealth upon, English Letters is past
+praying for. We must wait until the tide changes; we can do nothing, and the
+waiting will be long.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap18">José Maria de Heredia</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+The French have a phrase “la beauté du verbe” by which they would express a
+something in the sound and in the arrangement of words which supplements
+whatever mere thought those words were intended to express. It is evident that
+no definition of this beauty can be given, but it is also evident that without
+it letters would not exist. How it arises we cannot explain, yet the process is
+familiar to us in everything we do when we are attempting to fulfil an impulse
+towards whatever is good. An integration not of many small things but of an
+infinite series of infinitely small things build up the perfect gesture, the
+perfect line, the perfect intonation, and the perfect phrase. So indeed are all
+things significant built up: every tone of the voice, every arrangement of
+landscape or of notes in music which awake us and reveal the things beyond. But
+when one says that this is especially true of perfect expression one means that
+sometimes, rarely, the integration achieves a steadfast and sufficient formula.
+The mind is satisfied rather than replete. It asks no more; and if it desires
+to enjoy further the pleasure such completion has given it, it does not attempt
+to prolong or to develop the pleasure under which it has leapt; it is content
+to wait a while and to return, knowing well that it has here a treasure laid up
+for ever.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All this may be expressed in two words: the Classical Spirit. That is Classic
+of which it is true that the enjoyment is sufficient when it is terminated and
+that in the enjoyment of it an entity is revealed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When men propose to bequeath to their fellows work of so supreme a kind it is
+to be noticed that they choose by instinct a certain material.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It has been said that the material in which he works affects the achievement of
+the artist: it is truer to say that it helps him. A man designing a sculpture
+in marble knows very well what he is about to do. A man attempting the exact
+and restrained rendering of tragedy upon the stage does not choose the stage as
+one among many methods, he is drawn to it: he needs it; the audience, the
+light, the evening, the very slope of the boards, all minister to his efforts.
+And so a man determined to produce the greatest things in verse takes up by
+nature exact and thoughtful words and finds that their rhythm, their
+combination, and their sound turn under his hand to something greater than he
+himself at first intended; he becomes a creator, and his name is linked with
+the name of a masterpiece. The material in which he has worked is hard; the
+price he has paid is an exceeding effect; the reward he has earned is
+permanence.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+José de Heredia was an artist of this kind. The mass of the verse he produced,
+or rather published, was small. It might have been very large. It is not (as a
+foolish modern affectation will sometimes pretend) necessary to the endurance
+or even the excellence of work that it should be the product of exceptional
+moments; nor is it even true (as the wise Ancients believed) that great length
+of time must always mature it. But the small volume of Heredia’s legacy to
+European letters does argue this at least in the poet, that he passionately
+loved perfection and that, finding himself able to achieve it (for perfection
+can be achieved) but now and then, he chose only to be remembered by the
+contentment which, now and then, his own genius had given him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He worked upon verse as men work upon the harder metals; all that he did was
+chiselled very finely, then sawn to an exact configuration and at last inlaid,
+for when he published his completed volume it is true to say that every piece
+fitted in with the sound of one before and of one after. He was careful in the
+heroic degree.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+His blood and descent are worthy of notice. He was a Spaniard, inheriting from
+the first Conquerors of the New World, nor was it remarkable to those who have
+received a proper enthusiasm for the classical spirit that the energy and even
+the violence natural to such a lineage should express themselves in the coldest
+and the most exalted form when, for the second time, a member of the family
+attempted verse. It is in the essence of that spirit that it alone can dare to
+be disciplined. It never doubts the motive power that will impel it; it is
+afraid, if anything, of an excess of power, and consciously imposes upon itself
+the limits which give it form.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Heredia in his person expressed the activity which impelled him, for he was
+strong, brown, erect, a rapid walker, and a man whose voice was perpetually
+modulated in resonant and powerful tones. In his last years during his
+administration of the Library at the Arsenal this vitality of his took on an
+aspect of good nature very charming and very fruitful. His organization of the
+place was thorough, his knowledge of the readers intimate. He refused the
+manuscripts of none, he advised, laughed, and consoled. His criticism was sure.
+Several, notably Marcel Prevost, were launched by his authority. The same deep
+security of literary judgment which had permitted him to chastise and to
+perfect his impeccable sonnets into their final form permitted him also to hold
+up before his eyes, grasp, and judge the work of every other man.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+His frailty, as must always be the frailty of such men, was fastidiousness. The
+same sensitive consciousness which is said to have all but lost us the Aeneid,
+and which certainly all but lost us the Apologia, dominated his otherwise
+vigorous soul. It is more than forty years since his first verse, written just
+upon achieving his majority, appeared in the old <i>Revue de Paris</i> and in
+the <i>Revue des Deux Mondes</i>. It was not till 1893 that he collected in one
+volume the scattered sonnets of his youth and middle age: the collection won
+him somewhat tardily his chair in the Academy. There is irony in the
+reminiscence that the man he defeated in that election was Zola.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All the great men who saluted his advent are dead. Théophile Gautier, who first
+established his fame; Hugo, who addressed to him, perhaps, that vigorous appeal
+in which strict labour is deified, and the medal and the marble bust are shown
+to outlive the greatest glories, are sometimes quoted as the last among the
+great French writers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The immediate future will show that the stream of French excellence in this
+department, as in any other of human activity, is full, deep, and steady. The
+work of Heredia will help to prove it. He was a Spaniard, and a Colonial
+Spaniard. No other nation, perhaps, except the modern French, so inherit the
+romantic appetite of the later Roman Empire as to be able to mould and absorb
+every exterior element of excellence. It is remarkable that at the same moment
+Paris contemplated the funeral of the Italian de Brazza and the death of the
+Cuban Heredia. It is probable that those of us who are still young will live to
+see either name at the head of a new tradition. Heredia proved it possible not
+so much to imitate as to recapture the secure tradition of an older time.
+Perhaps the truest generalization that can be made with regard to the French
+people is to say that they especially in Western Europe (whose quality it is
+ever to transform itself but never to die) discover new springs of vitality
+after every period of defeat and aridity which they are compelled to cross.
+Heredia will prove in the near future a capital example of this power. He will
+increase silently in reputation until we, in old age, shall be surprised to
+find our sons and grandsons taking him for granted and speaking of him as one
+speaks of the Majores, of the permanent lights of poetry.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap19">Normandy and the Normans</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+There is no understanding a country unless one gets to know the nature of its
+sub-units. In some way not easy to comprehend, impossible to define, and yet
+very manifest, each of the great national organisms of which Christendom is
+built up is itself a body of many regions whose differences and interaction
+endow it with a corporate life. No one could understand the past of England who
+did not grasp the local genius of the counties—Lancashire, cut off eastward by
+the Pennines, southward by the belt of marsh, with no natural entry save by the
+gate of Stockport; Sussex, which was and is a bishopric and a kingdom; Kent,
+Devon, the East Anglian meres. No one could (or does) understand modern England
+who does not see its sub-units to have become by now the great industrial
+towns, or who fails to seize the spirit of each group of such towns—with London
+lying isolated in the south, a negative to the rest.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+France is built of such sub-units: it is the peculiarity of French development
+that these are not small territories mainly of an average extent with
+government answerable in a long day’s ride to one centre, such as most English
+counties are; nor city States such as form the piles upon which the structure
+of Italy has been raised; nor kingdoms such as coalesced to reform the Spanish
+people; but <i>provinces</i>, differing greatly in area, from little plains
+enclosed, like the Rousillon, to great stretches of landscape succeeding
+landscape like the Bourbonnais or the Périgord.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The real continuity with an immemorial past which inspires all Gallic things is
+discoverable in this arrangement of Gaul. At the first glance one might imagine
+a French province to be a chance growth of the feudal ties and of the Middle
+Ages. A further effort of scholarship will prove it essentially Roman. An
+intimate acquaintance with its customs and with the site of its strongholds,
+coupled with a comparison of the most recent and most fruitful hypotheses of
+historians, will convince you that it is earlier than the Roman conquest; it is
+tribal, or the home of a group of cognate tribes, and its roots are lost in
+prehistory. So it is with Normandy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This vast territory—larger (I think) than all North England from the Humber to
+Cheviot and from Chester to the Solway—has never formed a nation. It is typical
+of the national idea in France that Normandy should have “held” of the
+political centre of the country, probably since the first Gallic confederations
+were formed, certainly since the organization of the Empire. It is equally
+typical of the local life of a French province that, thus dependent, Normandy
+should have strictly preserved its manner and its spirit, and should have
+readily made war upon the Crown and resisted, as it still resists and will
+perhaps for ever, the centralizing forces of the national temper.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If you will travel day after day, and afoot, westward across the length of
+Normandy, you will have, if you are a good walker, a fortnight’s task ahead of
+you; even if you are walking for a wager, a week’s. It is the best way in which
+to possess a knowledge of that great land, and my advice would be to come in
+from the Picards over the bridge of Aumale across the little River Bresle
+(which is the boundary of Normandy to the east), and to go out by way of
+Pontorson, there crossing into Brittany over the little River Couesnon, which
+is the boundary of Normandy upon the west and beyond which lie the Bretons. In
+this way will you be best acquainted with the sharp differentiation of the
+French provinces passing into Normandy from Picardy, brick-built,
+horse-breeding, and slow, passing out of Normandy into the desolation and
+dreams of Brittany, and having known between the one and the other the chalk
+streams, the day-long beechen forests, the valley pastures, and the flamboyant
+churches of the Normans. You will do well to go by Neufchâtel, where the cheese
+is made, and by Rouen, then by Lisieux to Falaise, where the Conqueror was
+born, and thence by Vive to Avranches and so to the Breton border, taking care
+to choose the forests between one town and another for your road, since these
+many and deep woods—much wider than any we know in England—are in great part
+the soul of the country.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+By this itinerary you will not have taken all you should into view; you will
+not have touched the coast nor seen how Normandy is based upon the sea, and you
+will not have known the Cotentin, which is a little State of its own and is the
+quadrilateral which Normandy thrusts forth into the Channel. If you have the
+leisure, therefore, return by the north. Pass through Coutances and Valognes to
+Cherbourg, thence through Caen and Bayeux to the crossing of Seine at Honfleur,
+and then on by the chalk uplands and edges of the cliffs till you reach Eu upon
+the Bresle again. In such a double journey the character of the whole will be
+revealed, and if you have studied the past of the place before starting you
+will find your journey full. Avranches, Coutances, Lisieux, Bayeux, Rouen are
+not chance sites. Their great churches mark the bishoprics; the bishoprics in
+turn were the administrative centres of Rome, and Rome chose them because they
+were the strongholds or the sacred cities each of a Gallic tribe. The wealth of
+the valleys permitted everywhere that astonishing richness of detail which
+marks the stonework in village after village; the connexion with England,
+especially the last connexion under Henry V, explains the innumerable churches,
+splendid even in hamlets as are our own. The Bresle and the Couesnon, those
+little streams, are boundaries not of these last few centuries, but of a time
+beyond view; the Romans found them so. Diocletian made them the limits of the
+“Second Lyonesse,” “Lugdunensis Secunda,” which was the last Roman name of the
+province.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here and there, near the west especially, you will discover names which recall
+the chief adventure of Normandy, the accident which baptized it with its
+Christian name, the landing of the Scandinavian pirates, the thousandth
+anniversary of which is now being celebrated. They came—we cannot tell in what
+numbers, some thousands—and harried the land. The old policy of the Empire, the
+policy already seven hundred years old, was had recourse to; the barbarians
+were granted settlement, inheritance, marriage, and partnership with the Lords
+of the Villae; their chief was permitted to hold local government, to tax and
+to levy men as the administrator of the whole province; but there followed
+something which wherever else the experiment had been tried had not followed:
+something of a new race arose. In Burgundy, in the northeast, in Visigothic
+Aquitaine the slight admixture of foreign blood had not changed the people, it
+was absorbed; the slight admixture of Scandinavian blood, coming so much later,
+in a time so degraded in government and therefore so open to natural influence,
+did change the Gallo-Romans of the Second Lyonesse. Few as the newcomers may
+have been in number, the new element transformed the mass, and when a century
+had permitted the union to work and settle, the great soldiers who founded us
+appeared. The Norman lords ordered, surveyed, codified, and ruled. They let
+Europe into England, they organized Sicily, they confirmed the New Papacy, they
+were the framework of the Crusades.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The phenomenon was brief. It lasted little more than a hundred years, but it
+transformed Europe and launched the Middle Ages. When it had passed, Normandy
+stood confirmed for centuries (and is still confirmed) in a character of its
+own. No longer adventurous but mercantile, apt, of a resisting courage, sober
+in thought, leaning upon tradition, not imperially but domestically strong: the
+country of Corneille and of Malesherbes, a reflection of that spirit in
+letters; the conservative body of to-day—for in our generation that is the mark
+of Normandy—and, in arms, the recruitment to which Napoleon addressed his short
+and famous order that “the Normans that day should do their duty.”
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap20">The Old Things</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Those who travel about England for their pleasure, or, for that matter, about
+any part of Western Europe, rightly associate with such travel the pleasure of
+history; for history adds to a man, giving him, as it were, a great memory of
+things—like a human memory, but stretched over a far longer space than that of
+one human life. It makes him, I do not say wise and great, but certainly in
+communion with wisdom and greatness.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It adds also to the soil he treads, for to this it adds meaning. How good it is
+when you come out of Tewkesbury by the Cheltenham road to look upon those
+fields to the left and know that they are not only pleasant meadows, but also
+the place in which a great battle of the mediaeval monarchy was decided, or as
+you stand by that ferry, which is not known enough to Englishmen (for it is one
+of the most beautiful things in England), and look back and see Tewkesbury
+tower, framed between tall trees over the level of the Severn, to see also the
+Abbey buildings in your eye of the mind—a great mass of similar stone with
+solid Norman walls, stretching on hugely to the right of the Minster.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All this historical sense and the desire to marry History with Travel is very
+fruitful and nourishing, but there is another interest, allied to it, which is
+very nearly neglected, and which is yet in a way more fascinating and more full
+of meaning. This interest is the interest in such things as lie behind recorded
+history, and have survived into our own times. For underneath the general life
+of Europe, with its splendid epic of great Rome turned Christian, crusading,
+discovering, furnishing the springs of the Renaissance, and flowering at last
+materially into this stupendous knowledge of today, the knowledge of all the
+Arts, the power to construct and to do—underneath all that is the foundation on
+which Europe is built, the stem from which Europe springs; and that stem is
+far, far older than any recorded history, and far, far more vital than any of
+the phenomena which recorded history presents.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Recorded history for this island and for Northern France and for the Rhine
+Valley is a matter of two thousand years; for the Western Mediterranean of
+three; but the things of which I speak are to be reckoned in tens of thousands
+of years. Their interest does not lie only nor even chiefly in things that have
+disappeared. It is indeed a great pleasure to rummage in the earth and find
+polished stones wrought by men who came so many centuries before us, and of
+whose blood we certainly are; and it is a great pleasure to find, or to guess
+that we find, under Canterbury the piles of a lake or marsh dwelling, proving
+that Canterbury has been there from all time; and that the apparently
+defenceless Valley City was once chosen as an impregnable site, when the
+water-meadows of the Stour were impassable as marsh, or with difficulty
+passable as a shallow lagoon. And it is delightful to stand on the earthwork a
+few miles west and to say to oneself (as one can say with a fair certitude),
+“Here was the British camp defending the south-east; here the tenth legion
+charged.” All these are pleasant, but more pleasant, I think, to follow the
+thing where it actually survives.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Consider the track-ways, for instance. How rich is England in these! No other
+part of Europe will afford the traveller so permanent and so fascinating a
+problem. Elsewhere Rome hardened and straightened every barbaric trail until
+the original line and level disappeared; but in this distant province of
+Britain she could only afford just so much energy as made them a foothold for
+her soldiery; and all over England you can go, if you choose, foot by foot,
+along the ancient roads that were made by the men of your blood before they had
+heard of brick or of stone or of iron or of written laws.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I wonder that more men do not set out to follow, let us say, the Fosse-Way.
+There it runs right across Western England from the south-west to the
+north-east in a line direct yet sinuous, characters which are the very essence
+of a savage trail. It is a modern road for many miles, and you are tramping,
+let us say, along the Cotswold on a hard metalled modern English highway, with
+milestones and notices from the County Council telling you that the culverts
+will not bear a steam-engine, if so be you were to travel on one. Then suddenly
+this road comes up against a cross-road and apparently ceases, making what map
+draughtsmen call a “T”; but right in the same line you see a gate, and beyond
+it a farm lane, and so you follow. You come to a spinney where a ride has been
+cut through by the woodreeve, and it is all in the same line. The Fosse-Way
+turns into a little path, but you are still on it; it curves over a marshy
+brook-valley, picking out the firm land, and as you go you see old stones put
+there heaven knows how many (or how few) generations ago—or perhaps yesterday,
+for the tradition remains, and the country-folk strengthen their wet lands as
+they have strengthened them all these thousands of years; you climb up out of
+that depression, you get you over a stile, and there you are again upon a lane.
+You follow that lane, and once more it stops dead. This time there is a field
+before you. No right of way, no trace of a path, nothing but grass rounded into
+those parallel ridges which mark the modern decay of the corn lands and
+pasture—alas!—taking the place of ploughing. Now your pleasure comes in casting
+about for the trail; you look back along the line of the Way; you look forward
+in the same line till you find some indication, a boundary between two
+parishes, perhaps upon your map, or two or three quarries set together, or some
+other sign, and very soon you have picked up the line again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So you go on mile after mile, and as you tread that line you have in the
+horizons that you see, in the very nature and feel of the soil beneath your
+feet, in the skies of England above you, the ancient purpose and soul of this
+Kingdom. Up this same line went the Clans marching when they were called
+Northward to the host; and up this went slow, creaking wagons with the lead of
+the Mendips or the tin of Cornwall or the gold of Wales.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And it is still there; it is still used from place to place as a high road, it
+still lives in modern England. There are some of its peers, as for instance the
+Ermine Street, far more continuous, and affording problems more rarely; others
+like the ridgeway of the Berkshire Downs, which Rome hardly touched, and of
+which the last two thousand years has, therefore, made hardly anything; you may
+spend a delightful day piecing out exactly where it crossed the Thames, making
+your guess at it, and wondering as you sit there by Streatley Vicarage whether
+those islands did not form a natural weir below which lay the ford.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The roads are the most obvious things. There are many more; for instance,
+thatch. The same laying of the straw in the same manner, with the same art, has
+continued, we may be certain, from a time long before the beginning of history.
+See how in the Fen Land they thatch with reeds, and how upon the Chalk Downs
+with straw from the Lowlands. I remember once being told of a record in a
+manor, which held of the Church and which lay upon the southern slope of the
+Downs, that so much was entered for “straw from the Lowlands”: then, years
+afterwards, when I had to thatch a Bethlehem in an orchard underneath tall
+elms—a pleasant place to write in, with the noise of bees in the air—the man
+who came to thatch said to me: “We must have straw from the Lowlands; this
+upland straw is no good for thatching.” Immediately when I heard him say this
+there was added to me ten thousand years. And I know another place in England,
+far distant from this, where a man said to me that if I wished to cross in a
+winter mist, as I had determined to do, Cross-Fell, that great summit of the
+Pennines, I must watch the drift of the snow, for there was no other guide to
+one’s direction in such weather. And I remember another man in a little boat in
+the North Sea, as we came towards the Foreland, talking to me of the two tides,
+and telling me how if one caught the tide all the way up to Long Nose and then
+went round it on the end of the flood, one caught a new tide up London river,
+and so made two tides in one day. He spoke with the same pleasure that silly
+men show when they talk about an accumulation of money. He felt wealthy and
+proud from the knowledge, for by this knowledge he had two tides in one day.
+Now knowledge of this sort is older than ten thousand years; and so is the
+knowledge of how birds fly, and of how they call, and of how the weather
+changes with the moon.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Very many things a man might add to the list that I am making. Dew-pans are
+older than the language or the religion; and the finding of water with a stick;
+and the catching of that smooth animal, the mole; and the building of flints
+into mortar, which if one does it in the old way (as you may see at Pevensey)
+the work lasts for ever, but if you do it in any new way it does not last ten
+years; then there is the knowledge of planting during the crescent part of the
+month, but not before the new moon shows; and there is the influence of the
+moon on cider, and to a less extent upon the brewing of ale; and talking of
+ale, the knowledge of how ale should be drawn from the brewing just when a man
+can see his face without mist upon the surface of the hot brew. And there is
+the knowledge of how to bank rivers, which is called “throwing the rives” in
+the South, but in the Fen Land by some other name; and how to bank them so that
+they do not silt, but scour themselves. There are these things and a thousand
+others. All are immemorial.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap21">The Battle of Hastings. Related in the Manner of Oxford
+and Dedicated to that University</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+So careless were the French commanders (or more properly the French commander,
+for the rest were cowed by the bullying swagger of William) that the night,
+which should have been devoted to some sort of reconnaissance, if not of a
+preparation of the ground, was devoted to nothing more practical than the
+religious exercises peculiar to foreigners.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Their army, as we have seen, was not drawn from any one land, but it was in the
+majority composed of Normans and Bretons; we can therefore understand the
+extravagant superstition which must bear the blame for what followed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Meanwhile, upon the heights above, the English host calmly prepared for battle.
+Fires were lit each in its appointed place, and at these meat was cooked under
+the stern but kindly eyes of the sergeant-majors. These also distributed at an
+appointed price liquor, of which the British soldier is never willing to be
+deprived, and as the hours advanced towards morning, the songs in which our
+adventurous race has ever delighted rose from the heights above the Brede.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The morning was misty, as is often the case over damp and marshy lands in the
+month of October, but the inclemency of the weather, or, to speak more
+accurately, the superfluous moisture precipitated from an already saturated
+atmosphere, was of no effect upon those silent and tenacious troops of Harold.
+It was far other with the so-called “Norman” host, who were full of
+forebodings—only too amply to be justified—of the fate that lay before them
+upon the morrow.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is curious to contrast the quiet skill and sagacity which marked the
+disposition of Harold with the almost childish simplicity of William’s plan—if
+plan it may be called.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Saxon hosts were drawn along the ridge in a position chosen with masterly
+skill. It afforded (as may still be seen) no dead ground for an attacking force
+and little cover.<a href="#fn1" name="fnref1"><sup>[1]</sup></a> Their left was
+arranged <i>en potence</i>, their right was drawn up in echelon. The centre
+followed the plan usual at that time, reposing upon the wings to its right and
+left and extended. The reserves were, of course, posted behind. Cavalry, as at
+Omdurman, played but a slight role in this typically national action and such
+mounted troops as were present seem to have been intermixed with the line in
+the fashion later known, in the jargon of the service, as “The Beggar’s
+Quadrille.” The Brigade of Guards is not mentioned in any record that I can
+discover, but was probably set by reversed companies in a square perpendicular
+to the main ravine and a little in front of the salient angle which appears
+upon the map at the point marked A.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The terrain can be clearly determined at the present day in spite of the
+changes that have taken place in the intervening years. It is a fairly steep
+slope of hemispherical contour interspersed with low bushes; the summit (upon
+which now stands our lovely English village of Battle and the residence of one
+of those cultured and leisured men who form the framework of our commonwealth)
+was then but a wild heath.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Harold himself could be distinguished in the centre of the line by his handsome
+features, restrained deportment, and unfailing gentlemanly good sense as he
+spoke to staff officer, orderly, and even groom with indefatigable skill.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In spite of the determination observable from a great distance upon the faces
+of the tall Saxon line, William with characteristic lack of balance opened the
+action by ordering a charge uphill with cavalry alone; it was a piece of
+tactics absurdly incongruous and one even he would never have attempted had he
+understood the foe that was before him, or the fate to which that foe had
+doomed him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The lesson dealt him was as immediate as it was severe. The foreigners were
+thrust headlong down the hill, and a private letter tells us how the Men of
+Kent in particular buffeted the Normans about “as though they were boys.” But
+even in the heat of this initial success Harold had the self-command to order
+the retirement upon the main position: and with troops such as his the order
+was equivalent to its execution.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This rude blow would have sufficed for any commander less vain than William,
+but he seems to have lost all judgment in a fit of personal vanity and to have
+ordered a second charge which could not but prove as futile as the first,
+delivered as it was up a perfect glacis strengthened by epaulements, reverses
+and countersunk galvon work and one whose natural strength was heightened by
+the stockade which the indomitable energy of Harold’s troops had perfected in
+the early hours of the morning. Many of the stakes in this, the reader may note
+with pardonable pride, were of English oak—sharpened at the tip.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+William’s plan (if plan it may be called) was, as we have seen, necessarily
+futile and was foredoomed to failure. But Harold had no intention to let the
+action bear no more fruit than a tactical victory upon this particular field.
+The brain that had designed the exact synchrony of Stamford Bridge and the
+famous march southward from the Humber was of that sort which is only found
+once in many centuries of the history of war and which is (it may be said
+without boasting) peculiar to this island.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Another general would have awaited the second charge with its useless butchery
+and still more useless contest for the barren name of victory. Not so Harold.
+Those commanding, cold grey eyes of his swept the line in a comprehensive
+glance, and though no written record of the detail remains, he must know little
+of the character of the man who does not understand that from Harold certainly
+proceeded the order for what followed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The forces at the centre, which he commanded in person, deftly withdrew before
+the futile gallop of William’s cavalry, leaving, with that coolness which has
+ever distinguished our troops, the laggards to their fate. At the same moment,
+and with marvellous precision, the left and right were withdrawn from the
+plateau rapidly and as by magic, and the old-fashioned tactics of mere impact
+(which William of Normandy seems seriously to have relied on!) were spent and
+wasted upon the now evacuated summit of the hill.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What followed is famous in history.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The cohesion of the Saxon force and the exactitude and coolness with which its
+great operation was performed is of good augury for the future of our country.
+Though it was now thick night, by no set road and with no cumbersome machinery
+of train and rear-guard, the whole of the vast assembly masked itself behind
+the woodlands of the Weald.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Norman horsemen, bewildered and fatigued, gazed on the many that had fallen
+in defence of the masking position and wondered whether such novel happenings
+were victory or no, but the army whose concentration upon the Thames it was
+William’s whole object to prevent, was already miles northward, each unit
+proceeding by exactly co-ordinated routes towards London.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is perhaps no more difficult task set before soldiers than the quiet
+execution of such a manoeuvre after the heat of a heavy action, and none have
+performed it more magnificently than the veteran troop of Harold.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When (luckily) all the orders had been finally distributed a great tragedy
+marred the completeness of the day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Just before the execution of this masterpiece of strategy, and as the autumn
+sun was sinking, the inevitable price which war demands of all its darlings was
+paid.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Harold himself, the artist of the great victory, fell. But we have no reason to
+believe that his loss retarded the retrograding movement in any degree. Men who
+create as Harold created have not their creations spoilt by death.
+</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p>
+The shameful history of the close of the campaign is familiar to every
+schoolboy, and the military historian must be pardoned if he deals with a
+purely civilian blunder in a few brief words.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Parliament interfered—as it always does—with what should have been a matter for
+soldiers alone. Intrigues, bribery, or worse (with which the military historian
+has no concern) ruined what had been, in the field, one of the principal
+achievements of the Saxon arms. And William, who could not count to hold his
+own against regular forces and who was astonished to find himself free to
+retreat precipitately on Dover, was still more astonished to find himself
+accepted a few weeks later after an aimless march to the west and north by the
+politicians—or worse—at Berkhampstead. He and England were equally astounded to
+find that a broken and defeated invader could actually be accepted by the
+intriguers at Westminster and crowned King of England as the price of a secret
+bargain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Such was the fruit of as great and successful an effort as ever Saxon soldier
+made: the Battle of Senlac: for such—as I am now free to reveal—was the true
+name of the field of action.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The ineptitude or avarice of politicians had undone the work of soldiers, and
+it is no wonder that the last of Harold’s veterans, who retired in disgust to
+impregnable fortresses in Ely, Arthur’s Seat, and Pudsey, are recorded to have
+gnashed their teeth and shed tears of indignation at the dispatches from the
+metropolis. At Crécy they were to be avenged.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap22">The Roman Roads in Picardy</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+If a man were asked where he would find upon the map the sharpest impress of
+Rome and of the memories of Rome, and where he would most easily discover in a
+few days on foot the foundations upon which our civilization still rests, he
+might, in proportion to his knowledge of history and of Europe, be puzzled to
+reply. He might say that a week along the wall from Tyne to Solway would be the
+answer; or a week in the great Roman cities of Provence with their triumphal
+arches and their vast arenas and their Roman stone cropping out everywhere: in
+old quays, in ruined bridges, in the very pavement of the streets they use
+to-day, and in the columns of their living churches.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now I was surprised to find myself after many years of dabbling in such things,
+furnishing myself the answer in quite a different place. It was in Picardy
+during the late manoeuvres of the French Army that, in the intervals of
+watching those great buzzing flies, the aeroplanes, and in the intervals of
+long tramps after the regiments or of watching the massed guns, the necessity
+for perpetually consulting the map brought home to me for the first time this
+truth—that Picardy is the province—or to be more accurate, Picardy with its
+marches in the Île de France, the edge of Normandy and the edge of
+Flanders—which retains to-day the most vivid impress of Rome. For though the
+great buildings are lacking, and the Roman work, which must here have been
+mainly of brick, has crumbled, and though I can remember nothing upstanding and
+patently of the Empire between the gate of Rheims and the frontier of Artois,
+yet one feature—the Roman road—is here so evident, so multiple, and so enduring
+that it makes up for all the rest.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One discovers the old roads upon the map, one after the other, with a sort of
+surprise. The scheme develops before one as one looks, and always when one
+thinks one has completed the web another and yet another straight arrow of a
+line reveals itself across the page.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The map is a sort of palimpsest. A mass of fine modern roads, a whole red blur
+of lanes and local ways, the big, rare black lines of the railway—these are the
+recent writing, as it were; but underneath the whole, more and more apparent
+and in greater and greater numbers as one learns to discover them, are the
+strict, taut lines which Rome stretched over all those plains.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is something most fascinating in noting them, and discovering them one
+after the other.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For they need discovering. No one of them is still in complete use. The greater
+part must be pieced together from lengths of lanes which turn into broad roads,
+and then suddenly sink again into footpaths, rights of way, or green forest
+rides.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Often, as with our rarer Roman roads in England, all trace of the thing
+disappears under the plough or in the soft crossings of the river valleys; one
+marks them by the straightness of their alignment, by the place names which lie
+upon them (the repeated name Estrée, for instance, which is like the place name
+“street” upon the Roman roads of England); by the recovery of them after a gap;
+by the discoveries which local archaeology has made.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Different men have different pastimes, and I dare say that most of those who
+read this will wonder that such a search should be a pastime for any man, but I
+confess it is a pastime for me. To discover these things, to recreate them, to
+dig out on foot the base upon which two thousand years of history repose, is
+the most fascinating kind of travel.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And then, the number of them! You may take an oblong of country with Maubeuge
+at one corner, Pontoise at another, Yvetot and some frontier town such as Fumes
+for the other two corners, and in that stretch of country a hundred and fifty
+miles by perhaps two hundred, you can build up a scheme of Roman ways almost as
+complete as the scheme of the great roads to-day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+That one which most immediately strikes the eye is the great line which darts
+upon Rouen from Paris.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Twice broken at the crossing of the river valleys, and lost altogether in the
+last twelve miles before the capital of Normandy, it still stands on the modern
+map a great modern road with every aspect of purpose and of intention in its
+going.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From Amiens again they radiate out, these roads, some, like the way to Cambray,
+in use every mile; some, like the old marching road to the sea, to the Portus
+Itius, to Boulogne, a mere lane often wholly lost and never used as a great
+modern road. This was the way along which the French feudal cavalry trailed to
+the disaster of Crécy, and just beyond Crécy it goes and loses itself in that
+exasperating but fascinating manner which is the whole charm of Roman roads
+wherever the hunter finds them. You may lay a ruler along this old forgotten
+track, all the way past Domqueur, Novelle (which is called Novelle-en-Chaussée,
+that is Novelle on the paved road), on past Estrée (where from the height you
+overlook the battlefield of Crécy), and that ruler so lying on your map points
+right at Boulogne Harbour, thirty odd miles away—and in all those thirty odd
+remaining miles I could not find another yard of it. But what an interest! What
+a hobby to develop! There is nothing like it in all the kinds of hunting that
+have ever been invented for filling up the whole of the mind. True, you will
+get no sauce of danger, but, on the other hand, you will hunt for weeks and
+weeks, and you will come back year after year and go on with your hunting, and
+sometimes you actually find—which is more than can be said for hunting some
+animals in the Weald.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+How was it lost, this great main road of Europe, this marching road of the
+legions, linking up Gaul and Britain, the way that Hadrian went, and the way
+down which the usurper Constantine III must have come during that short
+adventure of his which lends such a romance to the end of the Empire? One
+cannot conceive why it should have disappeared. It is a sunken way down the
+hillside across the light railway which serves Crécy, it gets vaguer and
+vaguer, for all the world like those ridges upon the chalk that mark the Roman
+roads in England, and then it is gone. It leaves you pointing, I say, at that
+distant harbour, thirty odd miles off, but over all those miles it has
+vanished. The ghost of the legends cannot march along it any more. In one place
+you find a few yards of it about three miles south and east of Montreuil. It
+may be that the little lane leading into Estrée shows where it crossed the
+valley of the Cauche, but it is all guesswork, and therefore very proper to the
+huntsman.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then there is that unbroken line by which St. Martin came, I think, when he
+rode into Amiens, and at the gate of the town cut his cloak in two to cover the
+beggar. It drives across country for Roye and on to Noyon, the old centre of
+the Kings. It is a great modern road all the way, and it stretches before you
+mile after mile after mile, until suddenly, without explanation and for no
+reason, it ends sharply, like the life of a man. It ends on the slopes of the
+hill called Choisy, at the edge of the wood which is there. And seek as you
+will, you will never find it again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From that road also, near Amiens, branches out another, whose object was St.
+Quentin, first as a great high road, lost in the valley of the Somme, a lesser
+road again, still in one strict alignment, it reaches on to within a mile of
+Vermand, and there it stops dead. I do not think that between Vermand and St.
+Quentin you will find it. Go out north-westward from Vermand and walk perhaps
+five miles, or seven: there is no trace of a road, only the rare country lanes
+winding in and out, and the open plough of the rolling land. But continue by
+your compass so and you will come (suddenly again and with no apparent reason
+for its abrupt origin) upon the dead straight line that ran from the capital of
+the Nervii, three days’ march and more, and pointing all the time straight at
+Vermand.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And so it is throughout the province and its neighbourhood. Here and there, as
+at Bavai, a great capital has decayed. Here and there (but more rarely), a town
+wholly new has sprung up since the Romans, but the plan of the country is the
+same as that which they laid down, and the roads as you discover them, mark it
+out and establish it. The armies that you see marching to-day in their
+manoeuvres follow for half a morning the line which was taken by the Legions.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap23">The Reward of Letters</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+It has often been remarked that while all countries in the world possess some
+sort of literature, as Iceland her Sagas, England her daily papers, France her
+prose writers and dramatists, and even Prussia her railway guides, one nation
+and one alone, the Empire of Monomotopa, is utterly innocent of this
+embellishment or frill.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+No traveller records the existence of any Monomotopan quill-driver; no modern
+visitor to that delightful island has come across a <i>littérateur</i> whether
+in the worse or in the best hotels; and such reading as the inhabitants enjoy
+is entirely confined to works imported by large steamers from the neighbouring
+Antarctic Continent.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The causes of this singular and happy state of affairs were unknown (since the
+common histories did not mention them) until the recent discovery by Mr. Paley,
+the chief authority upon Monomotopan hieratic script, of a very ancient
+inscription which clearly sets forth the whole business.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It seems that an Emperor of Monomotopa, whose date can be accurately fixed by
+internal evidence to lie after the universal deluge and before the building of
+the Pyramid of Cheops, was, upon his accession to the throne, particularly
+concerned with the just repartition of taxes among his beloved subjects.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It would seem (if we are to trust the inscription) that in a past still more
+remote the taxes were so light that even the richest men would meet them
+promptly and without complaining, but this was at a period when the enemies of
+Monomotopa were at once distant and actively engaged in quarrelling among
+themselves. With sickening treachery these distant rival nations had determined
+to produce wealth and to live in amity, so that it was incumbent upon the
+Monomotopans not only to build ships, but actually to provide an army, and at
+last (what broke the camel’s back) to establish fortifications of a very
+useless but expensive sort upon a dozen points of their Imperial coast.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Under the increasing strain the old fiscal system broke down. The poor were
+clearly embarrassed, as might be seen in their emaciated visages and from the
+terrible condition of their boots. The rich had reached the point after which
+it was inconvenient to them to pay any more. The middle classes were spending
+the greater part of their time in devising methods by which the exorbitant and
+intempestive demands of the collectors could be either evaded or, more rarely,
+complied with. In a word, a new and juster system of taxation was an imperative
+need, and the Emperor, who had just ascended the throne at the age of eighteen,
+and whom a sort of greenness had preserved from the iniquities of this world,
+was determined to effect the great reform.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+With the advice of his Ministers (all of whom had had considerable experience
+in the handling of money), the Emperor at last determined that each man and
+woman should pay to the State one-tenth and no more of the wealth which he or
+she produced; those who produced nothing it was but common justice and reason
+to exempt, and the effect of this tardy act of justice upon the very rich was
+observed in the sudden increase of the death-rate from all those diseases that
+are the peculiar product of luxury and evil living. Paupers also, the
+unemployed, cripples, imbeciles, deaf mutes, and the clergy escaped under this
+beneficent and equable statute, and we may sum up the whole policy by saying
+that never was a law acclaimed with so much happy bewilderment nor subject to
+less expressed criticism than this.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was, moreover, easy to estimate in this new fashion the total revenue of the
+State, since its produce had been accurately set down by statisticians of the
+utmost eminence, and one of these diverse documents had been taken for the
+basis of the new fiscal regime.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In practice also the collection was easy. Overseers would attend the harvest
+with large carts, prong the tenth turnip, hoick up the tenth sheaf of wheat,
+bucket out the tenth gallon of ale, and so forth. In the markets every tenth
+animal was removed by Imperial officers, every tenth newspaper was impounded as
+it left the press, and every tenth drink about to be consumed in the hostelries
+of the Empire was, after a simulacrum of proffering it, suddenly removed by the
+waiter and poured into a receptacle, the keys of which were very jealously
+guarded.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was the same with the liberal professions: of the fee received by a
+barrister in the Criminal Courts a tenth was regularly demanded at the door
+when the verdict had been given and the prisoner whom he had defended passed
+out to execution. The tenth knock-out in the prize ring received by the
+professional pugilist was followed by the immediate sequestration of his fee
+for that particular encounter, and the tenth aria vibrating from the lips of a
+prima donna was either compounded for at a certain rate or taken in kind by the
+official who attended at every performance of grand opera.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One form of wealth alone puzzled the beneficent monarch and his Napoleonic
+advisers, and this was the production (for it then existed) of literary matter.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At first this seemed as simple to tax as any one of the other numerous
+activities upon which the Emperor’s loyal and loving subjects were engaged. A
+brief examination of the customs of the trade, conducted by an army of
+officials who penetrated into the very dens and attics in which Letters are
+evolved, reported that the method of payment was by the measurement of a number
+of words.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It is, your Majesty,” wrote the permanent official of the department in his
+minute, “the practice of those who charitably employ this sort of person to pay
+them in classes by the thousand words; thus one man gets one sequin a thousand,
+another two byzants, a third as much as a ducat, while some who have singularly
+attracted the notice of the public can command ten, twenty, nay forty
+scutcheons, and in some very exceptional cases a thousand words command one of
+those beautiful pieces of stiff paper which your Majesty in his bountiful
+provision tenders to his dutiful subjects for acceptance as metal under diverse
+penalties. The just taxation of these fellows can therefore be easily achieved
+if your Majesty, in the exercise of his almost superhuman wisdom, will but add
+a schedule to the Finance Act in which there shall be set down fifteen or
+twenty classes of writers, with their price per thousand words, and a
+compulsory registration of each class, enforced by the rude hand of the
+police.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Emperor of Monomotopa immediately nominated a Royal Commission (unpaid),
+among whose sons, nephews, and private friends the salaried posts connected
+with the work were distributed. This Commission reported by a majority of one
+ere two years had elapsed. The schedule was designed, and such
+<i>littérateurs</i> as had not in the interval fled the country were
+registered, while a further enactment strictly forbidding their employers to
+make payment upon any other system completed the scheme.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But, alas! so full of low cunning and dirty dodges is this kind of man (I mean
+what we call authors) that very soon after the promulgation of the new law a
+marked deterioration in the quality of Monomotopan letters was apparent upon
+every side!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The citizen opening his morning paper would be astonished to find the leading
+article consist of nothing more original than a portion of the sacred
+Scriptures. A novel bought to ease the tedium of a journey would consist of
+long catalogues for the most part, and when it came to descriptions of scenery
+would fall into the most minute and detailed category of every conceivable
+feature of the landscape. Some even took advantage of the new regulation so far
+as to repeat one single word an interminable number of times, while it was
+remarked with shame by the Ministers of Religion that the morals of their
+literary friends permitted them only to use words of one syllable, and those of
+the shortest kind. And this they said was the only true and original
+Monomotopan dialect.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Such was the public inconvenience that next year a sharper and much more
+drastic law was passed, by which it was laid down that every literary
+composition should make sense within the meaning of the Act, and should be
+original so far as the reading of the judge appointed for the trial of the case
+extended. But though after the first few executions this law was generally
+observed, the nasty fellows affected by it managed to evade it in spirit, for
+by the use of obscure terms, of words drawn from dead languages, and of bold
+metaphor transferred from one art to another, they would deliberately invite
+prosecution, and then in the witness-box make fools of those plain men, the
+judge and jury, by showing that this apparently meaningless claptrap could,
+with sufficient ingenuity, be made to yield some sort of sense, and during this
+period no art critic was put to death.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Driven to desperation, the Emperor changed the whole basis of the Remuneration
+of Literary Labour, and ordered that it should be by the length of the prose or
+poetry measured in inches.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This reform, however, did but add to the confusion, for while the men of the
+pen wrote their works entirely in short dialogue, asterisks, and blanks, the
+publishers, who were now thoroughly organized, printed the same in smaller and
+smaller type, in order to avoid the consequences of the law.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At this last piece of insolence the Emperor’s mind was quickly decided.
+Arresting one night not only all those who had ever written, but all those who
+had even boasted of letters, or who were so much as suspected by their
+relatives of secretly indulging in them, he turned the whole two million into a
+large but enclosed area, and (desiring to kill two birds with one stone)
+offered the ensuing spectacle as an amusement to the more sober and respectable
+sections of the community.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is well known that the profession of letters breeds in its followers an
+undying hatred of each against his fellows. The public were therefore
+entertained for a whole day with the pleasing sight of a violent but quite
+disordered battle, in which each of the wretched prisoners seemed animated by
+no desire but the destruction of as many as possible of his hated rivals, until
+at last every soul of these detestable creatures had left its puny body and the
+State was rid of all.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A law which carried to the universities the rule of the primary schools—to wit,
+that men should be taught to read but not to write—completed the good work. And
+there was peace.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap24">The Eye-Openers</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Without any doubt whatsoever, the one characteristic of the towns is the lack
+of reality in the impressions of the many: now we live in towns: and posterity
+will be astounded at us! It isn’t only that we get our impressions for the most
+part as imaginary pictures called up by printer’s ink—that would be bad enough;
+but by some curious perversion of the modern mind, printer’s ink ends by
+actually preventing one from seeing things that are there; and sometimes, when
+one says to another who has not travelled, “Travel!” one wonders whether, after
+all, if he does travel, he will see the things before his eyes? If he does, he
+will find a new world; and there is more to be discovered in this fashion
+to-day than ever there was.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have sometimes wished that every Anglo-Saxon who from these shores has sailed
+and seen for the first time the other Anglo-Saxons in New York or Melbourne,
+would write in quite a short letter what he really felt. Ninety-nine times out
+of a hundred men only write what they have read before they started, just as
+Rousseau in an eighteenth-century village believed that every English yokel
+could vote and that his vote conveyed a high initiative, making and unmaking
+the policy of the State; or just as people, hearing that the birth-rate of
+France is low, travel in that country and say they can see no children—though
+they would hardly say it about Sussex or Cumberland where the birth-rate is
+lower still.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What travel does in the way of pleasure (the providing of new and fresh
+sensations, and the expansion of experience), that it ought to do in the way of
+knowledge. It ought to and it does, with the wise, provide a complete course of
+unlearning the wretched tags with which the sham culture of our great towns has
+filled us. For instance, of Barbary—the lions do not live in deserts; they live
+in woods. The peasants of Barbary are not Semitic in appearance or in
+character; Barbary is full to the eye, not of Arab and Oriental buildings—they
+are not striking—but of great Roman monuments: they are altogether the most
+important things in the place. Barbary is not hot, as a whole: most of Barbary
+is extremely cold between November and March. The inhabitants of Barbary do not
+like a wild life, they are extremely fond of what civilization can give them,
+such as <i>crème de menthe</i>, rifles, good waterworks, maps, and railways:
+only they would like to have these things without the bother of strict laws and
+of the police, and so forth. Travel in Barbary with seeing eyes and you find
+out all this new truth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now it took the French forty years and more before each of these plain facts
+(and I have only cited half a dozen out of as many hundred) got into their
+letters and their print: they have not yet got into the letters and the print
+of other nations. But an honest man travelling in Barbary on his own account
+would pick up every one of these truths in two or three days, except the one
+about the lions; to pick up that truth you must go to the very edge of the
+country, for the lion is a shy beast and withdraws from men.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The wise man who really wants to see things as they are and to understand them,
+does not say: “Here I am on the burning soil of Africa.” He says: “Here I am
+stuck in a snowdrift and the train twelve hours late”—as it was (with me in it)
+near Sétif in January, 1905. He does not say as he looks on the peasant at his
+plough outside Batna: “Observe yon Semite!” He says: “That man’s face is
+exactly like the face of a dark Sussex peasant, only a little leaner.” He does
+not say: “See those wild sons of the desert! How they must hate the new
+artificial world around them!” Contrariwise, he says: “See those four
+Mohammedans playing cards with a French pack of cards and drinking liqueurs in
+the café! See, they have ordered more liqueurs!” He does not say: “How strange
+and terrible a thing the railway must be to them!” He says: “I wish I was rich
+enough to travel first, for the natives pouring in and out of this third-class
+carriage, jabbering like monkeys, and treading on my feet, disturb my
+tranquillity. Some hundreds must have got in and out during the last fifty
+miles!”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In other words, the wise man has permitted eye-openers to rain upon him their
+full, beneficent, and sacramental influence. And if a man in travelling will
+always maintain his mind ready for what he really sees and hears, he will
+become a whole nest of Columbuses discovering a perfectly interminable series
+of new worlds.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A man can only talk of what he himself knows. Let me give further examples. I
+had always heard until I visited the Pyrenees how French civilization
+(especially in the matter of roads, motors, and things like that) went up to
+the “Spanish” frontier and then stopped dead. It doesn’t. The change is at the
+Aragonese frontier. On the Basque third of the frontier the people are just as
+active and fond of wealth, and of scraping of stone and of cleanliness, and of
+drawing straight lines, to the north as to the south of it. They are all one
+people, as industrious, as thrifty, and as prosperous as the Scots. So are the
+Catalans one people, and you get much the same sort of advantages and
+disadvantages (apart from the effect of government) with the Catalans to the
+north as with the Catalans to the south of the border.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So with religion. I had thought to find the Spanish churches crowded. I found
+just the contrary. It was the French churches that were crowded, not the
+Spanish; and the difference between the truth—what one really sees and
+hears—and the printed legend happens to be very subtly illustrated in this case
+of religion. The French have inherited (and are by this time used to, and have,
+perhaps grown fond of) a big religious debate. Those who side with the national
+religion and tradition emphasize their opinion in every possible way—so do
+their opponents. You pick up two newspapers from Toulouse, for instance, and it
+is quite on the cards that the leading article of each will be a disquisition
+upon the philosophy of religion, the one, the “Depêche” of Toulouse,
+militantly, and often solently atheist; the other as militantly Catholic.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You don’t get that in Pamplona, and you don’t get it in Saragossa. What you get
+there is a profound dislike of being interfered with, ancient and lazy customs,
+wealth retained by the chapters, the monasteries, and the colleges, and with
+all this a curious, all-pervading indifference.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One might end this little train of thought by considering a converse test of
+what the eye-opener is in travel; and that test is to talk to foreigners when
+they first come to England and see how they tend to discover in England what
+they have read of at home instead of what they really see. There have been very
+few fogs in London of late, but your foreigner nearly always finds London
+foggy. Kent does not show along its main railway line the evidence of
+agricultural depression: it is like a garden. Yet, in a very careful and
+thorough French book just published by a French traveller, his bird’s-eye view
+of the country as he went through Kent just after landing would make you think
+the place a desert; he seems to have thought the hedges a sign of agricultural
+decay. The same foreigner will discover a plebeian character in the Commons and
+an aristocratic one in the House of Lords, though he shall have heard but four
+speeches in each, and though every one of the eight speeches shall have been
+delivered by members of one family group closely intermarried, wealthy, titled,
+and perhaps (who knows?) of some lineage as well.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The moral is that one should tell the truth to oneself, and look out for it
+outside one. It is quite as novel and as entertaining as the discovery of the
+North Pole—or, in case that has come off (as some believe), the discovery of
+the South Pole.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap25">The Public</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+I notice a very curious thing in the actions particularly of business men
+to-day, and of other men also, which is the projection outward from their own
+inward minds of something which is called “The Public”—and which is not there.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I do not mean that a business man is wrong when he says that “the public will
+demand” such and such an article, and on producing the article finds it sells
+widely; he is obviously and demonstrably right in his use of the word “public”
+in such a connexion. Nor is a man wrong or subject to illusion when he says,
+“The public have taken to cinematograph shows,” or “The public were greatly
+moved when the Hull fishermen were shot at by the Russian fleet in the North
+Sea.” What I mean is “The Public” as an excuse or scapegoat; the Public as a
+menace; the Public as a butt. That Public simply does not exist.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For instance, the publisher will say, as though he were talking of some
+monster, “The Public will not buy Jinks’s work. It is first-class work, so it
+is too good for the Public.” He is quite right in his statement of fact. Of the
+very small proportion of our people who read only a fraction buy books, and of
+the fraction that buy books very few indeed buy Jinks’s. Jinks has a very
+pleasant up-and-down style. He loves to use funny words dragged from the tomb,
+and he has delicate little emotions. Yet hardly anybody will buy him—so the
+publisher is quite right in one sense when he says, “The Public” won’t buy
+Jinks. But where he is quite wrong and suffering from a gross illusion is in
+the motive and the manner of his saying it. He talks of “The Public” as
+something gravely to blame and yet irredeemably stupid. He talks of it as
+something quite external to himself, almost as something which he has never
+personally come across. He talks of it as though it were a Mammoth or an
+Eskimo. Now, if that publisher would wander for a moment into the world of
+realities he would perceive his illusion. Modern men do not like realities, and
+do not usually know the way to come in contact with them. I will tell the
+publisher how to do so in this case.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Let him consider what books he buys himself, what books his wife buys; what
+books his eldest son, his grandmother, his Aunt Jane, his old father, his
+butler (if he runs to one), his most intimate friend, and his curate buy. He
+will find that not one of these people buys Jinks. Most of them will talk
+Jinks, and if Jinks writes a play, however dull, they will probably go and see
+it once; but they draw the line at buying Jinks’s books—and I don’t blame them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The moral is very simple. You yourselves are “The Public,” and if you will
+watch your own habits you will find that the economic explanation of a hundred
+things becomes quite clear.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have seen the same thing in the offices of a newspaper. Some simple truth of
+commanding interest to this country, involving no attack upon any rich man, and
+therefore not dangerous under our laws, comes up for printing. It is discussed
+in the editor’s room. The editor says, “Yes, of course, we know it is true, and
+of course it is important, but the Public would not stand it.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I remember one newspaper office of my youth in which the Public was visualized
+as a long file of people streaming into a Wesleyan chapel, and another in which
+the Public was supposed to be made up without exception of retired officers and
+maiden ladies, every one of whom was a communicant of the English Established
+Church, every one of good birth, and yet every one devoid of culture.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Without the least doubt each of these absurd symbols haunted the brain of each
+of the editors in question. The editor of the first paper would print at
+wearisome length accounts of obscure Catholic clerical scandals on the
+Continent, and would sweat with alarm if his sub-editors had admitted a
+telegram concerning the trial of some fraudulent Protestant missionary or other
+in China.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Meanwhile his rather dull paper was being bought by you and me, and bank clerks
+and foreign tourists, and doctors, and publicans, and brokers, Catholics,
+Protestants, atheists, “peculiar people,” and every kind of man for many
+reasons—because it had the best social statistics, because it had a very good
+dramatic critic, because they had got into the habit and couldn’t stop, because
+it came nearest to hand on the bookstall. Of a hundred readers, ninety-nine
+skipped the clerical scandal and either chuckled over the fraudulent missionary
+or were bored by him and went on to the gambling news from the Stock Exchange.
+But the type for whom all that paper was produced, the menacing god or demon
+who was supposed to forbid publication of certain news in it, did not exist.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So it was with the second paper, but with this difference, that the editor was
+right about the social position of those who read his sheet, but quite wrong
+about the opinions and emotions of people in that social position.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was all the more astonishing from the fact that the editor was born in that
+very class himself and perpetually mixed with it. No one perhaps read “The
+Stodge” (for under this device would I veil the true name of the organ) more
+carefully than those retired officers of either service who are to be found in
+what are called our “residential” towns. The editor was himself the son of a
+colonel of guns who had settled down in a Midland watering-place. He ought to
+have known that world, and he did know that world, but he kept his illusion of
+his Public quite apart from his experience of realities.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Your retired officer (to take his particular section of this particular paper’s
+audience) is nearly always a man with a hobby, and usually a good scientific or
+literary hobby at that. He writes many of our best books demanding research. He
+takes an active part in public work which requires statistical study. He is
+always a travelled man, and nearly always a well-read man. The broadest and the
+most complete questioning and turning and returning of the most fundamental
+subjects—religion, foreign policy, and domestic economics—are quite familiar to
+him. But the editor was not selecting news for that real man; he was selecting
+news for an imaginary retired officer of inconceivable stupidity and ignorance,
+redeemed by a childlike simplicity. If a book came in, for instance, on
+biology, and there was a chance of having it reviewed by one of the first
+biologists of the day, he would say: “Oh, our Public won’t stand evolution,”
+and he would trot out his imaginary retired officer as though he were a mule.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Artists, by which I mean painters, and more especially art critics, sin in this
+respect. They say: “The public wants a picture to tell a story,” and they say
+it with a sneer. Well, the public does want a picture to tell a story, because
+you and I want a picture to tell a story. Sorry. But so it is. The art critic
+himself wants it to tell a story, and so does the artist. Each would rather die
+than admit it, but if you set either walking, with no one to watch him, down a
+row of pictures you would see him looking at one picture after another with
+that expression of interest which only comes on a human face when it is
+following a human relation. A mere splash of colour would bore him; still more
+a mere medley of black and white. The story may have a very simple plot; it may
+be no more than an old woman sitting on a chair, or a landscape, but a picture,
+if a man can look at it all, tells a story right enough. It must interest men,
+and the less of a story it tells the less it will interest men. A good
+landscape tells so vivid a story that children (who are unspoilt) actually
+transfer themselves into such a landscape, walk about in it, and have
+adventures in it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They make another complaint against the public, that it desires painting to be
+lifelike. Of course it does! The statement is accurate, but the complaint is
+based on an illusion. It is you and I and all the world that want painting to
+imitate its object. There is a wonderful picture in the Glasgow Art Gallery,
+painted by someone a long time ago, in which a man is represented in a steel
+cuirass with a fur tippet over it, and the whole point of that picture is that
+the fur looks like fur and the steel looks like steel. I never met a critic yet
+who was so bold as to say that picture was a bad picture. It is one of the best
+pictures in the world; but its whole point is the liveliness of the steel and
+of the fur.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Finally, there is one proper test to prove that all this jargon about “The
+Public” is nonsense, which is that it is altogether modern. Who quarrelled with
+the Public in the old days when men lived a healthy corporate life, and
+painted, wrote, or sang for the applause of their fellows?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If you still suffer from the illusion after reading these magisterial lines of
+mine, why, there is a drastic way to cure yourself, which is to go for a
+soldier; take the shilling and live in a barracks for a year; then buy yourself
+out. You will never despise the public again. And perhaps a better way still is
+to go round the Horn before the mast. But take care that your friends shall
+send you enough money to Valparaiso for your return journey to be made in some
+comfort; I would not wish my worst enemy to go back the way he came.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap26">On Entries</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+I am always planning in my mind new kinds of guide books. Or, rather, new
+features in guide books.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One such new feature which I am sure would be very useful would be an
+indication to the traveller of how he should approach a place.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I would first presuppose him quite free and able to come by rail or by water or
+by road or on foot across the fields, and then I would describe how the many
+places I have seen stand quite differently in the mind according to the way in
+which one approaches them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The value of travel, to the eye at least, lies in its presentation of clear and
+permanent impressions, and these I think (though some would quarrel with me for
+saying it) are usually instantaneous. It is the first sharp vision of an
+unknown town, the first immediate vision of a range of hills, that remains for
+ever and is fruitful of joy within the mind, or, at least, that is one and
+perhaps the chief of the fruits of travel.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I remember once, for instance, waking from a dead sleep in a train (for I was
+very tired) and finding it to be evening. What woke me was the sudden stopping
+of the train. It was in Italy. A man in the carriage said to me that there was
+some sort of accident and that we should be waiting a while. The people got out
+and walked about by the side of the track. I also got out of the carriage and
+took the air, and when I so stepped out into the cool of that summer evening I
+was amazed at the loneliness and tragedy of the place.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were no houses about me that I could see save one little place built for
+the railway men. There was no cultivation either.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Close before me began a sort of swamp with reeds which hardly moved to the air,
+and this gradually merged into a sheet of water above and beyond which were
+hills, barren and not very high, which took the last of the daylight, for they
+looked both southward and to the west. The more I watched the extraordinary and
+absolute scene the less I heard of the low voices about me, and indeed a sort
+of positive silence seemed to clothe the darkening landscape. It was full of
+something quite gone down, and one had the impression that it would never be
+disturbed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As the light lessened, the hills darkened, the sky took on one broad and tender
+colour, the sheet of water gleamed quite white, and the reeds stood up like
+solid shadows against it. I wish I could express in words the impression of
+recollection and of savage mourning which all that landscape imposed, but from
+that impression I was recalled and startled by the guard, who came along
+telling us that things were righted and that the train would start again; soon
+we were in our places and the rapid movement isolated for me the memory of a
+singularly vivid scene. I thought the place must have a name, and I asked a
+neighbour in the carriage what it was called; he told me it was called Lake
+Trasimene.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now I do not say that this tragic site is to be visited thus. It was but an
+accident, though an accident for which I am most grateful to my fate. But what
+I have said here illustrates my meaning that the manner of one’s approach to
+any place in travel makes all the difference.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus one may note how very different is Europe seen from the water than seen
+from any other opportunity for travel. So many of the great cathedrals were
+built to dominate men who should watch them from the wharves of the mediaeval
+towns, but I think it is almost a rule if you have leisure and can take your
+choice to choose this kind of entry to them. Amiens is quite a different thing
+seen from the river below it to the north and east from what it is seen by a
+gradual approach along the street of a modern town. The roofs climb up at it,
+and it stands enthroned. So Chartres seen from the little Eure; but the Eure is
+so small a river that he would be a bold man who would travel up it all this
+way. Nevertheless it is a good piece of travel, and anyone who will undertake
+it will see Louviers and will pass Anet, where the greatest work of the
+Renaissance once stood, and will go through lonely but rich pastures until at
+last he gets to Chartres by the right gate. Thence he will see something
+astonishing for so flat a region as the Beauce. The great church seems
+mountainous upon a mountain. Its apse completes the unclimbable steepness of
+the hill and its buttresses follow the lines of the fall of it. But if you do
+not come in by the river, at least come in by the Orleans road. I suppose that
+nine people out of ten, even to-day when the roads are in proper use again,
+come into Chartres by that northern railway entry, which is for all the world
+like coming into a great house by a big, neglected backyard.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then if ever you have business that takes you to Bayonne, come in by river and
+from the sea, and how well you will understand the little town and its lovely
+northern Gothic!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Some of the great churches all the world knows must be seen from the water, and
+most of the world so sees them. Ely is one, Cologne is another, but how many
+people have looked right up at Durham as at a cliff from that gorge below, or
+how many have seen the height of Albi from the Tarn?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As for famous cities with their walls, there is no doubt that a man should
+approach them by the chief high road, which once linked them with their
+capital, or with their nearest port, or with Rome—and that although this kind
+of entry is nowadays often marred by ugly suburbs. You will get much your
+finest sight of Segovia as you come in by the road from the Guadarama and from
+Madrid. It is from that point that you were meant to see the town, and you will
+get much your best grip on Carcassonne, old Carcassonne, if you come in by the
+road from Toulouse at morning as you were meant to come, and so Coucy should be
+approached by that royal road from Soissons and from the south, while as for
+Laon (the most famous of the hill towns), come to it from the east, for it
+looks eastward, and its lords were Eastern lords.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Ranges of hills, I think, are never best first seen from railways. Indeed, I
+can remember no great sight of hills so seen, not even the Alps. A railway must
+of necessity follow the floor of the valley and tunnel and creep round the
+shoulders of the bulwarks. There is perhaps one exception to this rule, which
+is the sight of the Pyrenees from the train as one comes into Tarbes. It is a
+wise thing if you are visiting those hills to come into Tarbes by night and
+sleep there, and then next morning the train upon its way to Pau unfolds you
+all the wall of the mountains. But this is an accident. It is because the
+railway runs upon a sort of high platform that you see the mountains so. With
+all other hills that I remember it is best to have them burst suddenly upon you
+from the top of some pass lifted high above the level and coming, let us say,
+to a height half their own. Certainly the Bernese Oberland is more wonderful
+caught in one moment from the Jura than introduced in any other way, and the
+snows on Atlas over the desert seem like part of the sky when they come upon
+one after climbing the red rocks of the high plateaux and you see them shining
+over the salt marshes. The Vosges you cannot thus see from a half-height; there
+is no platform, and that is perhaps why the Vosges have not impressed
+travellers as they should. But you can so watch the grand chain of old
+volcanoes which are the rampart of Auvergne. You can stand upon the high wooden
+ridge of Foreze and see them take the morning across the mists and the flat of
+the Limagne, where the Gauls fought Caesar. Further south from the high table
+of the Velay you can see the steep backward escarpment of the Cevennes, inky
+blue, desperately blue, blue like nothing else on earth except the mountains in
+those painters of North Italy, of the parts north and east of Venice, the name
+of whose school escapes me—or, rather, I never knew it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now, as for towns that live in a hollow, it is great fun to come upon them from
+above. They are not used to being thus taken at a disadvantage and they are
+both surprised and surprising. There are many towns in holes and trenches of
+Europe which you can thus play “peep-bo” with if you will come at them walking.
+By train they will mean nothing to you. You will probably come upon them out of
+a long, shrieking tunnel, and by the high road they mean little more, for the
+high road will follow the vale. But if you come upon them from over their
+guardian cliffs and scars you catch them unawares, and this is a good way of
+approaching them, for you master them, as it were, and spy them out before you
+enter in. You can act thus with Grenoble and with many a town on the Meuse, and
+particularly with Aubusson, which lies in the depths of so dreadful a trench
+that I could wonder how man ever dreamt of living and building there.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The most difficult of all places on which to advise, I think, would be the very
+great cities, the capitals. They seem to have to-day no noble entries and no
+proper approach. Perhaps we shall only deal with them justly when we can circle
+down to them through the air and see their vast activity splashed over the
+plain. Anyhow, there is no proper way of entering them now that I know of.
+Berlin is not worth entering at all. Rome (a man told me once) could be entered
+by some particular road over the Janiculum, I think—which also, if I remember
+right, was the way that Shelley came—but I despair of Paris, and certainly of
+London. I cannot even recall an entry for Brussels, though Brussels is a
+monumental city with great rewards for those who love the combination of
+building and hills.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Perhaps, after all, the happiest entries of all and the most easy are those of
+our many market towns, small and not swollen in Britain and in Northern Gaul
+and in the Netherlands and in the Valley of the Rhine. These hardly ever fail
+us, and we come upon them in our travels as they desire that we should come,
+and we know them properly as things should properly be known—that is, from the
+beginning.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap27">Companions of Travel</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+I write of travelling companions in general, and not in particular, making of
+them a composite photograph, as it were, and finding what they have in common
+and what is their type; and in the first place I find them to be chance men.
+For there are some people who cannot travel without a set companion who goes
+with them from Charing Cross all over the world and back to Charing Cross
+again. And there is a pathos in this: as Balzac said of marriage, “What a
+commentary on human life, that human beings must associate to endure it.” So it
+is with many who cannot endure to travel alone: and some will positively
+advertise for another to go with them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In a glade of the Sierra Nevada, which, for awful and, as it were, permanent
+beauty seemed not to be of this world, I came upon a man slowly driving along
+the trail a ramshackle cart, in which were a few chairs and tables and bedding.
+He had a long grey beard and wild eyes; he was old, and very small like a
+gnome, but he had not the gnome’s good-humour. I asked him where he was going,
+and I slowed down, so as to keep pace with his ridiculous horse. For some time
+he would not answer me, and then he said, “Out of this.” He added, “I am tired
+of it.” And when I asked him, “Of what?” his only answer was an old-fashioned
+oath. But from further complaints which he made I gathered that what he was
+tired of was clearing forests, digging ground, paying debts, and in general
+living upon this unhappy earth. He did not like me very much, and though I
+would willingly have learned more, he would tell me nothing further, so when we
+got to a place where there was a little stream I went on and left him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have never forgotten the sadness of this man. Where he was going, and what he
+expected to do, or what opportunities he had, I have never understood. Though
+some years after, in quite another place—namely, Steyning, in Sussex—I came
+upon just such another, whose quarrel was with the English climate, the rich
+and the poor, and the whole constitution of God’s earth. These are the
+advantages of travel, that one meets so many men whom one would otherwise never
+meet, and that one feeds as it were upon the complexity of mankind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus in a village called Encamps, in the depths of Andorra, where no man has
+ever killed another, I found a man with a blue face, who was a fossil, the kind
+of man you would never find in the swelling life of Western Europe. He was
+emancipated, he had studied in Perpignan, over and beyond the great hills. He
+could not see why he should pay taxes to support a priest. “The priests” he
+assured me, “say the most ridiculous things. They narrate the most impossible
+fables. They affirm what cannot possibly be true. All that they say is in
+opposition to science. If I am ill, can a priest cure me? No. Can a priest tell
+me how to build, or how to light my house? He is unable to do so. He is a
+useless and a lying mouth, why should I feed him?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I questioned this man very closely, and discovered that in his view the world
+slowly changed from worse to better, and to accelerate this process
+enlightenment alone was needed. “But what do these brutes,” he said, alluding
+to his fellow-countrymen, “know of enlightenment? They do not even make roads,
+because the priests forbid them.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I could write at length upon this man. He was not a Sceptic as you may imagine,
+nor had he adopted the Lucretian form of Epicureanism. Not a bit of it. He was
+a hearty Atheist, with Positivist leanings. I further found that he had married
+a woman older, wealthier, and if possible uglier than himself. She kept the
+inn, and was very kind to him. His life would have been quite happy had he not
+been tortured by the monstrous superstitions of others.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then, again, in the town of Marseilles, only two years ago, I met a man who
+looked well fed, and had a stalwart, square French face, and whose
+politico-economic ideal, though it was not mine, greatly moved me. It was just
+past midnight, and I was throwing little stones into the old Greek harbour, the
+stench and the glory of which are nearly three thousand years old; I was to be
+off at dawn upon a tramp steamer, and I had so determined to pass the few hours
+of darkness.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was throwing pebbles into the water, I say, and thinking about Ulysses, when
+this man came slouching up, with his hands in the pockets of his enormous
+corduroy trousers, and, looking at me with some contempt from above (for he was
+standing, I was sitting), he began to converse with me. We talked first of
+ships, then of heat and cold, and so on to wealth and poverty; and thus it was
+I came upon his views, which were that there should be a sort of break up, and
+houses ought to be burned, and things smashed, and people killed; and over and
+above this, it should be made plain that no one had a right to govern: not the
+people, because they were always being bamboozled; obviously not the rich;
+least of all, the politicians, to whom he justly applied the most derogatory
+epithets. He waved his arm out in the darkness at the Phoceans, at the
+half-million of Marseilles, and said, “All that should disappear.” The
+constructive side of his politico-economic scheme was negative. He was a
+practical man. None of your fine theories for him. One step at a time. Let
+there be a Chambardement—that is, a noisy collapse, and he would think about
+what to do afterwards.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+His was not the narrow, deductive mind. He was objective and concrete. Believe
+me or not, he was paid an excellent wage by the municipality to prevent people
+like me, who sit up at night, from doing mischief in the harbour. When I had
+come to an end of his politico-economic scheme—the main lines of which were so
+clear and simple that a child could understand them—we fell to talking of the
+tides, and I told him that in my country the sea went up and down. He was no
+rustic, and would have no such commonplace truths. He was well acquainted with
+the Phenomenon of the Tides; it was due to the combined attraction of the sun
+and of the moon. But when I told him I knew places where the tides fell thirty
+or forty feet, we would have had a violent quarrel had I not prudently admitted
+that that was romantic exaggeration, and that five or six was the most that one
+ever saw it move. I avoided the quarrel, but the little incident broke up our
+friendship, and he shuffled away. He did not like having his leg pulled.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There are many others I remember. Those I have written about elsewhere I am
+ashamed to recall, as the man at Jedburgh, who first expounded to me how one
+knew all about the fate of the individual soul, and then objected to personal
+questions about his own; the German officer man at Aix-la-Chapelle, who had
+hair the colour of tow, and gave me minute details of the method by which
+England was to be destroyed; a man I met upon the Appian Way, who told the most
+abominable lies; and another man who met me outside Oxford station during the
+Vac. and offered to show me the sights of the town for a consideration, which
+he did, but I would not pay him because he was inaccurate, as I easily proved
+by a few searching questions upon the exact site of Bocardo (of which he had
+never heard), and the negative evidence against a Roman origin for the site of
+the city. Moreover, he said that Trinity was St. John’s, which was rubbish.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then there was another man who travelled with me from Birmingham, pressed
+certain tracts upon me, and wanted to charge me sixpence each at Paddington.
+But if I were to speak of even these few I should exceed.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap28">On the Sources of Rivers</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+There are certain customs in man the permanence of which gives infinite
+pleasure. When the mood of the schools is against them these customs lie in
+wait beneath the floors of society, but they never die, and when a decay in
+pedantry or in despotism or in any other evil and inhuman influence permits
+them to reappear they reappear.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One of these customs is the religious attachment of man to isolated high
+places, peaks, and single striking hills. On these he must build shrines, and
+though he is a little furtive about it nowadays, yet the instinct is there,
+strong as ever. I have not often come to the top of a high hill with another
+man but I have seen him put a few stones together when he got there, or, if he
+had not the moral courage so to satisfy his soul, he would never fail on such
+an occasion to say something ritual and quasi-religious, even if it were only
+about the view; and another instinct of the same sort is the worship of the
+sources of rivers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Iconoclast and the people whose pride it is that their senses are dead will
+see in a river nothing more than so much moisture gathered in a narrow place
+and falling as the mystery of gravitation inclines it. Their mood is the mood
+of that gentleman who despaired and wrote:
+</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+A cloud’s a lot of vapour,<br/>
+    The sky’s a lot of air,<br/>
+And the sea’s a lot of water<br/>
+    That happens to be there.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You cannot get further down than that. When you have got as far down as that
+all is over. Luckily God still keeps his mysteries going for you, and you can’t
+get rid, even in that mood, of the certitude that you yourself exist and that
+things outside of you are outside of you. But when you get into that modern
+mood you do lose the personality of everything else, and you forget the
+sanctity of river heads.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You have lost a great deal when you have forgotten that, and it behoves you to
+recover what you have lost as quickly as possible, which is to be done in this
+way: Visit the source of some famous stream and think about it. There was a
+Scotchman once who discovered the sources of the Nile, to the lasting advantage
+of mankind and the permanent glory of his native land. He thought the source of
+the Nile looked rather like the sources of the Till or the Tweed or some such
+river of Thule. He has been ridiculed for saying this, but he was mystically
+very right. The source of the greatest of rivers, since it was sacred to him,
+reminded him of the sacred things of his home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I consider the sources of rivers which I have seen, there is not one, I
+think, which I do not remember to have had about it an influence of awe. Not
+only because one could in imaginings see the kingdoms of the cities which it
+was to visit and the way in which it would bind them all together in one
+province and one story, but also simply because it was an origin.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sources of the Rhone are famous: the Rhone comes out of a glacier through a
+sort of ice cave, and if it were not for an enormous hotel quite four-square it
+would be as lonely a place as there is in Europe, and as remarkable a beginning
+for a great river as could anywhere be found. Nor, when you come to think of
+it, does any European river have such varied fortunes as the Rhone. It feeds
+such different religions and looks on such diverse landscapes. It makes Geneva
+and it makes Avignon; it changes in colour and in the nature of its going as it
+goes. It sees new products appearing continually on its journey until it comes
+to olives, and it flows past the beginning of human cities, when it reflects
+the huddle of old Arles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sources of the Garonne are well known. The Garonne rises by itself in a
+valley from which there is no issue, like the fabled valleys shut in by hills
+on every side. And if it were anything but the Garonne it would not be able to
+escape: it would lie imprisoned there for ever. Being the Garonne it tunnels a
+way for itself right under the High Pyrenees and comes out again on the French
+side. There are some that doubt this, but then there are people who would doubt
+anything.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sources of the River Arun are not so famous as these two last, and it is a
+good thing, for they are to be found in one of the loneliest places within an
+hour of London that any man can imagine, and if you were put down there upon a
+windy day you would think yourself upon the moors. There is nothing whatsoever
+near you at the beginnings of the little sacred stream.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thames had a source once which was very famous. The water came out plainly at a
+fountain under a bleak wood just west of the Fosse Way, under which it ran by a
+culvert, a culvert at least as old as the Romans. But when about a hundred
+years ago people began to improve the world in those parts, they put up a
+pumping station and they pumped Thames dry—since which time its gods have
+deserted the river.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sources of the Ribble are in a lonely place up in a corner of the hills
+where everything has strange shapes and where the rocks make one think of
+trolls. The great frozen Whernside stands up above it, and Ingleborough Hill,
+which is like no other hill in England, but like the flat-topped Mesas which
+you have in America, or (as those who have visited it tell me) like the flat
+hills of South Africa; and a little way off on the other side is Pen-y-ghent,
+or words to that effect. The little River Ribble rises under such enormous
+guardianship. It rises quite clean and single in the shape of a little spring
+upon the hillside, and too few people know it. The other river that flows east
+while the Ribble flows west is the River Ayr. It rises in a curious way, for it
+imitates the Garonne, and finding itself blocked by limestone burrows
+underneath at a place called Malham Tarn, after which it has no more trouble.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The River Severn, the River Wye, and a third unimportant river, or at least
+important only for its beauty (and who would insist on that?) rise all close
+together on the skirts of Plinlimmon, and the smallest of them has the most
+wonderful rising, for it falls through the gorge of Llygnant, which looks like,
+and perhaps is, the deepest cleft in this island, or, at any rate, the most
+unexpected. And a fourth source on the mountain, a tarn below its summit, is
+the source of Rheidol, which has a short but adventurous life like Achilles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is one source in Europe that is properly dealt with, and where the
+religion due to the sources of rivers has free play, and this is the source of
+the Seine. It comes out upon the northern side of the hills which the French
+call the Hills of Gold, in a country of pasturage and forest, very high up
+above the world and thinly peopled. The River Seine appears there in a sort of
+miraculous manner, pouring out of a grotto, and over this grotto the Parisians
+have built a votive statue; and there is yet another of the hundred thousand
+things that nobody knows.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap29">On Error</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+There is an elusive idea that has floated through the minds of most of us as we
+grew older and learnt more and more things. It is an idea extremely difficult
+to get into set terms. It is an idea very difficult to put so that we shall not
+seem nonsensical; and yet it is a very useful idea, and if it could be realized
+its realization would be of very practical value. It is the idea of a
+Dictionary of Ignorance and Error.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On the face of it a definition of the work is impossible. Strictly speaking it
+would be infinite, for human knowledge, however far extended, must always be
+infinitely small compared with all possible knowledge, just as any given finite
+space is infinitely small compared with all space.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But that is not the idea which we entertain when we consider this possible
+Dictionary of Ignorance and Error. What we really mean is a Dictionary of the
+sort of Ignorance and the sort of Error which we know ourselves to have been
+guilty of, which we have escaped by special experience or learning as time went
+on, and against which we would warn our fellows.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Flaubert, I think, first put it down in words, and said that such an
+encyclopaedia was very urgently needed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It will never exist, but we all know that it ought to exist. Bits of it appear
+from time to time piecemeal and here and there, as for instance in the
+annotations which modern scholarship attaches to the great text, in the printed
+criticisms to which sundry accepted doctrines are subjected by the younger men
+to-day, in the detailed restatement of historical events which we get from
+modern research as our fathers could never have them—but the work itself, the
+complete Encyclopaedia or Dictionary of Ignorance and Error, will never be
+printed. It is a great pity.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Incidentally one may remark that the process by which a particular error is
+propagated is as interesting to watch as the way in which a plant grows.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The first step seems to be the establishing of an authority and the giving of
+that authority a name which comes to connote doctrinal infallibility. A very
+good example of this is the title “Science.” Mere physical research, its
+achievements, its certitudes, even its conflicting and self-contradictory
+hypotheses, having got lumped together in many minds under this one title
+Science, the title is now sacred. It is used as a priestly title, as an
+immediate estopper to doubt or criticism.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The next step is a very interesting one for the student of psychical pathology
+to note. It seems to be a disease as native and universal to the human mind as
+is the decay of the teeth to the human body. It seems as though we all must
+suffer somewhat from it, and most of us suffer a great deal from it, though in
+a cool aspect we easily perceive it to be a lesion of thought. And this second
+step is as follows:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The whole lump having been given its sacred title and erected into an
+infallible authority, which you are to accept as directly superior to yourself
+and all personal sources of information, there is attributed to this idol a
+number of attributes. We give it a soul, and a habit and manners which do not
+attach to its stuff at all. The projection of this imagined living character in
+our authority is comparable to what we also do with mountains, statues, towns,
+and so forth. Our living individuality lends individuality to them. I might
+here digress to discuss whether this habit of the mind were not a distorted
+reflection of some truth, and whether, indeed, there be not such beings as
+demons or the souls of things. But, to leave that, we take our authority—this
+thing “Science,” for instance—we clothe it with a creed and appetites and a
+will, and all the other human attributes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This done, we set out in the third step in our progress towards fixed error. We
+make the idol speak. Of course, being only an idol, it talks nonsense. But by
+the previous steps just referred to we must believe that nonsense, and believe
+it we do. Thus it is, I think, that fixed error is most generally established.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have already given one example in the hierarchic title “Science.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was but the other day that I picked up a weekly paper in which a gentleman
+was discussing ghosts—that is, the supposed apparition of the living and the
+dead: of the dead though dead, and of the living though absent.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Nothing has been more keenly discussed since the beginning of human
+discussions. Are these phenomena (which undoubtedly happen) what modern people
+call subjective, or are they what modern people call objective? In
+old-fashioned English, Are the ghosts really there or are they not? The most
+elementary use of the human reason persuades us that the matter is not
+susceptible of positive proof. The criterion of certitude in any matter of
+perception is an inner sense in the perceiver that the thing he perceives is
+external to himself. He is the only witness; no one can corroborate or dispute
+him. The seer may be right or he may be wrong, but we have no proof—and only
+according to our temperament, our fancy, our experience, our mood, do we decide
+with one or the other of the two great schools.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, the gentleman of whom I am speaking wrote and had printed in plain
+English this phrase (read it carefully):—“Science teaches us that these
+phenomena are purely subjective.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now I am quite sure that of the thousands who read that phrase all but a
+handful read it in the spirit in which one hears the oracle of a god. Some read
+it with regret, some with pleasure, but all with acquiescence.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+That physical science was not competent in the matter one way or the other each
+of those readers would probably have discovered, if even so simple a corrective
+as the use of the term “physical research” instead of the sacred term “science”
+had been applied; the hierarchic title “Science” did the trick.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I might take another example out of many hundreds to show what I mean. You have
+an authority which is called, where documents are concerned, “The Best Modern
+Criticism.” “The Best Modern Criticism” decides that “Tam o’ Shanter” was
+written by a committee of permanent officials of the Board of Trade, or that
+Napoleon Bonaparte never existed. As a matter of fact, the tomfoolery does not
+usually venture upon ground so near home, but it talks rubbish just as
+monstrous about a poem a few hundred or a few thousand years old, or a great
+personality a few hundred or a few thousand years old.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now if you will look at that phrase “The Best Modern Criticism” you will see at
+once that it simply teems with assumption and tautology. But it does more and
+worse: it presupposes that an infallible authority must of its own nature be
+perpetually wrong.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Even supposing that I have the most “modern” (that is, merely the latest)
+criticism to hand, and even supposing that by some omniscience of mine I can
+tell which is “the best” (that is, which part of it has really proved most
+ample, most painstaking, most general, and most sincere), even then the phrase
+fatally condemns me. It is to say that Wednesday is always infallible as
+compared with Tuesday, and Thursday as compared with Wednesday, which is
+absurd.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The B.M.C. tells me in 1875 that the Song of Roland could have no origins
+anterior to the year 1030. But the B.M.C. of 1885 (being a B.M.C. and nothing
+more valuable) has a changed opinion. It must change its opinion, that is the
+law of its being, since an integral factor in its value is its modernity. In
+1885 B.M.C. tells me that the Song of Roland can be traced to origins far
+earlier, let us say to 912.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In 1895 B.M.C. has come to other conclusions—the Song of Roland is certainly as
+late as 1115 ... and so forth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now you would say that an idol of that absurdity could have no effect upon sane
+men. Change the terms and give it another name, and you would laugh at the idea
+of its having an effect upon any men. But we know as a matter of fact that it
+commands the thoughts of nearly all men to-day and makes cowards of the most
+learned.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Perhaps you will ask me at the end of so long a criticism in what way error may
+be corrected, since there is this sort of tendency in us to accept it, to which
+I answer that things correct it, or as the philosophers call things, “Reality.”
+Error does not wash.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To go back to that example of ghosts. If ever you see a ghost (my poor reader),
+I shall ask you afterwards whether he seemed subjective or no. I think you will
+find the word “subjective” an astonishingly thin one—if, at least, I catch you
+early after the experience.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap30">The Great Sight</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+All night we had slept on straw in a high barn. The wood of its beams was very
+old, and the tiles upon the roof were green with age; but there hung from beam
+to beam, fantastically, a wire caught by nails, and here and there from this
+wire hung an electric-light bulb. It was a symbol of the time, and the place,
+and the people. There was no local by-law to forbid such a thing, or if there
+was, no one dreamt of obeying it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Just in the first dawn of that September day we went out, my companion and I,
+at guesswork to hunt in the most amusing kind of hunting, which is the hunting
+of an army. The lane led through one of those lovely ravines of Picardy which
+travellers never know (for they only see the plains), and in a little while we
+thought it wise to strike up the steep bank from the valley on to the bare
+plateau above, but it was all at random and all guesswork, only we wisely
+thought that we were nearing the beginning of things, and that on the bare
+fields of the high flat we should have a greater horizon and a better chance of
+catching any indications of men or arms.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When we had reached the height the sun had long risen, but it as yet gave no
+shining and there were no shadows, for a delicate mist hung all about the
+landscape, though immediately above us the sky was faintly blue.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was the weirdest of sensations to go for mile after mile over that vast
+plain, to know that it was cut in regular series by parallel ravines which in
+all that extended view we could not guess at; to see up to the limits of the
+plateau the spires of villages and the groups of trees about them, and to know
+that somewhere in all this there lay concealed a <i>corps d’armée</i>—and not
+to see or hear a soul. The only human being that we saw was a man driving a
+heavy farm cart very slowly up a side-way just as we came into the great road
+which has shot dead across this country in one line ever since the Romans built
+it. As we went along that road, leaving the fields, we passed by many men
+indeed, and many houses, all in movement with the early morning; and the
+chalked numbers on the doors, and here and there an empty tin of
+polishing-paste or an order scrawled on paper and tacked to a wall betrayed the
+passage of soldiers. But of the army there was nothing at all. Scouting on foot
+(for that was what it was) is a desperate business, and that especially if you
+have nothing to tell you whether you will get in touch in five, or ten, or
+twenty miles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was nine o’clock before a clatter of horse-hoofs came up the road behind us.
+At first my companion and I wondered whether it were the first riders of the
+Dragoons or Cuirassiers. In that case the advance was from behind us. But very
+soon, as the sound grew clearer, we heard how few they were, and then there
+came into view, trotting rapidly, a small escort and two officers with the
+umpires’ badges, so there was nothing doing; but when, half a mile ahead of us
+on the road, they turned off to the left over plough, we knew that that was the
+way we must follow too. Before we came to the turning-place, before we left the
+road to take the fields on the left, there came from far off and on our right
+the sound of a gun.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was my companion who heard it first. We strained to hear it again; twice we
+thought we had caught it, and then again twice we doubted. It is not so easily
+recognizable a sound as you might think in those great plains cut by islands of
+high trees and steading walls. The little “75” gun lying low makes a different
+sound altogether at a distance from the old piece of “90.” At any rate there
+was here no doubt that there were guns to the right and in front of us, and the
+umpire had gone to the left. We were getting towards the thick, and we had only
+to go straight on to find out where the front was.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Just as we had so decided and were still pursuing the high road, there came,
+not half a mile away and again to our right, in a valley below us, that curious
+sound which is like nothing at all unless it be dumping of flints out of a
+cart: rifle fire. It cracked and tore in stretches. Then there were little gaps
+of silence like the gaps in signalling, and then it cracked and tore in
+stretches again; and then, fitfully, one individual shot and then another would
+be heard; and, much further off, with little sounds like snaps, the replies
+began from the hillside beyond the stream. So far so good. Here was contact in
+the valley below us, and the guns, some way behind and far off northwards, had
+opened. So we got the hang of it instantly—the front was a sort of a crescent
+lying roughly north and south, and roughly parallel to the great road, and the
+real or feigned mass of the advance was on the extreme left of that front. We
+were in it now, and that anxious and wearing business in all hunting, finding,
+was over; but we had been on foot six mortal hours before coming across our
+luck, and more than half the soldiers’ day was over. These men had been afoot
+since three, and certain units on the left had already marched over twenty
+miles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After that coming in touch with our business, not only did everything become
+plain, but the numbers we met, and what I have called “the thick of things,”
+fed us with interest. We passed half the 38th, going down the road singing, to
+extend the line, and in a large village we came to the other half, slouching
+about in the traditional fashion of the Service; they had been waiting for an
+hour. With them, and lined up all along the village street, was one battery,
+with the drivers dismounted, and all that body were at ease. There were men
+sitting on the doorsteps of the houses and men trotting to the canteen-wagon or
+to the village shops to buy food; and there were men reading papers which a
+pedlar had brought round. Mud and dust had splashed them all; upon some there
+was a look of great fatigue; they were of all shapes and sizes, and altogether
+it was the sort of sight you would not see in any other service in the world.
+It was the sort of sight which so disgusted the Emperor Joseph when he made his
+little tour to spy out the land before the Revolutionary Wars. It was the sort
+of sight which made Massenbach before Grandpré marvel whether the French forces
+were soldiers at all, and the sort of sight which made Valmy inexplicable to
+the King of Prussia and his staff. It was the sort of sight which eighteen
+months later still convinced Mack in Tournai that the Duke of York’s plan was a
+plan “of annihilation.” It is a trap for judgment is the French service.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So they lounged about and bought bread, and shifted their packs, and so the
+drivers stood by their horses, and so they all waited and slouched; until there
+came, not a man with a bugle nor anything with the slightest savour of drama
+but a little fellow running along thumping in his loose leather leggings, who
+went up to a Major of Artillery and saluted, and immediately afterwards the
+Major put his hand up, and then down a village street, from a point which we
+could not see came a whistle, and the whole of that mass of men began to swarm.
+The grey-blue coats of the line swung round the corner of the village street;
+they had yet a few miles before them. Anything more rapid or less in step it
+would be difficult to conceive. The guns were off at a right angle down the
+main road, making a prodigious clatter, and at the same time appeared two
+parties, one of which it was easy to understand, the other not. They were both
+parties of sappers. The one party had a great roll of wire on a drum, and as
+quick as you could think they were unreeling it, and as they unreeled it
+fastening it to eaves, overhanging branches, and to corners of walls,
+stretching it out forward. It was the field-telephone. The other party came
+along carrying great beams upon their shoulders, but what they were to do with
+these beams we did not know.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We followed the tail of the line down into the valley, and all that morning
+long and past the food time at midday, and so till the sun declined in the
+afternoon, we went with the 38th in its gradual success from crest to crest.
+And still the 38th slouched by companies, and mile after mile with checks and
+halts, and it never seemed to get either less or more tired. The men had had
+twelve hours of it when they came at last, and we after them, on to the
+critical position. They had carried (together with all the line to left and to
+the right of them) a string of villages which crowned the crest of a further
+plateau, and over this further plateau they were advancing against the main
+body of the resistance—the other army corps which was set up against ours, to
+simulate an enemy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A railway line ran here across the rolling hedgeless fields, and just at the
+point where my companion and I struck it there was a dip in the land and a high
+embankment which hid the plain beyond; but from that plain beyond one heard the
+separate fire of the advancing line in its scattered order. We climbed the
+embankment, and from its ridge we saw over two miles or more of stubble, the
+little creeping bunches of the attack. What was resisting, or where it lay, one
+could only guess. Some hundreds of yards before us to the east, with the
+sloping sun full on it, a line of thicket, one scattered wood and then another,
+an imperceptible lifting of the earth here and there marked the opposing firing
+line. Two pompoms could be spotted exactly, for the flashes were clear through
+the underwood. And still the tide of the advance continued to flow, and the
+little groups came up and fed it, one after another and another, in the centre
+where we were, and far away to the north and right away to the south the
+countryside was alive with it. The action was beginning to take on something of
+that final movement and decision which makes the climax of manoeuvres look so
+great a game. But in a little while that general creeping forward was checked:
+there were orders coming from the umpires, and a sort of lull fell over each
+position held. My companion said to me:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Let us go forward now over the intervening zone and in among Picquart’s men,
+and get well behind their line, and see whether there is a rally or whether
+before the end of this day they begin to fall back again.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So we did, walking a mile or so until we had long passed their outposts and
+were behind their forward lines. And standing there, upon a little eminence
+near a wood, we turned and looked over what we had come, westward towards the
+sun which was now not far from its setting. Then it was that we saw the last of
+the Great Sight.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The level light, mellow and already reddening, illumined all that plain
+strangely, and with the absolute stillness of the air contrasted the opening of
+the guns which had been brought up to support the renewal of the attack. We saw
+the isolated woods standing up like islands with low steep cliffs, dotted in a
+sea of stubble for miles and miles, and first from the cover of one and then
+from another the advance perpetually, piercing and deploying. As we so watched
+there buzzed high above us, like a great hornet, a biplane, circling well
+within our lines, beyond attack from the advance, but overlooking all they
+concealed behind it. In a few minutes a great Bleriot monoplane like a hawk
+followed, yet further inwards. The two great birds shot round in an arc,
+parallel to the firing line, and well behind it, and in a few minutes, that
+seemed seconds, they were dots to the south and then lost in the air. And
+perpetually, as the sun declined, Picquart’s men were falling back north and
+south of us and before us, and the advance continued. Group by group we saw it
+piercing this hedge, that woodland, now occupying a nearer and a nearer roll of
+land. It was the greatest thing imaginable: this enormous sweep of men, the
+dead silence of the air, and the comparatively slight contrast of the ceaseless
+pattering rifle fire and the slight intermittent accompaniment of the advancing
+batteries; until the sun set and all this human business slackened. Then for
+the first time one heard bugles, which were a command to cease the game.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I would not have missed that day nor lose the memories of it for anything in
+the world.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap31">The Decline of a State</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+The decline of a State is not equivalent to a mortal sickness therein. States
+are organisms subject to diseases and to decay as are the organisms of men’s
+bodies; but they are not subject to a rhythmic rise and fall as is the body of
+a man. A State in its decline is never a State doomed or a State dying. States
+perish slowly or by violence, but never without remedy and rarely without
+violence.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The decline of a State differs with the texture of it. A democratic State will
+decline from a lowering of its potential, that is of its ever-ready energy to
+act in a crisis, to correct and to control its servants in common times, to
+watch them narrowly and suspect them at all times. A despotic State will
+decline when the despot is not in point of fact the true depository of despotic
+power, but some other acting in his name, of whom the people know little and
+cannot judge; or when the despot, though fully in view and recognized, lacks
+will; or when (which is rare) he is so inhuman as to miss the general sense of
+his subjects. An oligarchic State, or aristocracy as it is called, will decline
+principally through two agencies which are, first, illusion, and secondly, lack
+of civic aptitude. For an oligarchic State tends very readily to illusion,
+being conducted by men who live at leisure, satisfy their passions, are immune
+from the laws, and prefer to shield themselves from reality. Their capacity or
+appetite for illusion will rapidly pervade those below them, for in an
+aristocracy the rulers are subjected to a sort of worship from the rest of the
+community, and thus it comes about that aristocracies in their decline accept
+fantastic histories of their own past, conceive victory possible without
+armies, wealth to be an indication of ability, and national security to be a
+natural gift rather than a product of the will. Such communities further fail
+from the lack of civic aptitude, as was said above, which means that they
+deliberately elect to leave the mass of citizens incompetent and irresponsible
+for generations, so that, when any more strain is upon them, they look at once
+for some men other than themselves to relieve them, and are incapable of
+corporate action upon their own account.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The decline of a State differs also according to whether it be a great State or
+a small one, for in the first indifference, in the latter faction, are a peril,
+and in the first ignorance, in the latter private spite.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then again, the decline of a State will differ according to whether its
+strength is rooted originally in commerce, in arms, or in production; and if in
+production, then whether in the production of the artisan or in that of the
+peasant. If arms be the basis of the State, then that the army should become
+professional and apart is a symptom of decline and a cause of it; if commerce,
+the substitution of hazards and imaginaries for the transport of real goods and
+the search after real demand; if production, the discontent or apathy of the
+producer; as with peasants an ill system in the taxation of the land or in the
+things necessary for its tillage, such as a misgovernment of its irrigation in
+a dry country; the permission of private exactions and tolls in a fertile one;
+the toleration of thieves and forestallers, and so forth. Artisans, upon the
+other hand, may well flourish, though the State be corrupt in such matters, but
+they must be secured in a high wage and be given a vast liberty of protest, for
+if they sink to be slaves in fact, they will from the nature of their toil grow
+both weak and foolish. Yet is not the State endangered by the artisan’s
+throwing off a refuse of ill-paid and starving men who are either too many for
+the work or unskilful at it? Such an excretion would poison a peasantry,
+remaining in their body as it were, but artisans are purged thereby. This
+refuse it is for the State to decide upon. It may in an artisan State be used
+for soldiery (since such States commonly maintain but small armies and are
+commonly indifferent to military glory), or it may be set to useful labour, or
+again, destroyed; but this last use is repugnant to humanity, and so in the
+long run hurtful to the State.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the decline of a State, of whatever nature that State be, two vices will
+immediately appear and grow: these are Avarice and Fear; and men will more
+readily accept the imputation of Avarice than of Fear, for Avarice is the less
+despicable of the two—yet in fact Fear will be by far the strongest passion of
+the time.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Avarice will show itself not indeed in a mere greed of gain (for this is common
+to all societies whether flourishing or failing), but rather in a sort of
+taking for granted and permeation of the mere love of money, so that history
+will be explained by it, wars judged by their booty or begun in order to enrich
+a few, love between men and women wholly subordinated to it, especially among
+the rich: wealth made a test for responsibility and great salaries invented and
+paid to those who serve the State. This vice will also be apparent in the easy
+acquaintance of all who are possessed of wealth and their segregation from the
+less fortunate, for avarice cleaves society flatways, keeping the scum of it
+quite clear of the middle, the middle of it quite clear of the dregs, and so
+forth. It is a further mark of avarice in its last stages that the rich are
+surrounded with lies in which they themselves believe. Thus, in the last phase,
+there are no parasites but only friends, no gifts but only loans, which are
+more esteemed favours than gifts once were. No one vicious but only tedious,
+and no one a poltroon but only slack.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Of Fear in the decline of a State it may be said that it is so much the master
+passion of such decline as to eat up all others. Coming by travel from a
+healthy State to one diseased, Fear is the first point you take. Men dare not
+print or say what they feel of the judges, the public governors, the action of
+the police, the controllers of fortunes and of news. This Fear will have about
+it something comic, providing infinite joy to the foreigner, and modifying with
+laughter the lament of the patriot. A miserable hack that never had a will of
+his own, but ran to do what he was told for twenty years at the bidding of his
+masters, being raised to the Bench will be praised for an impartial virtue more
+than human. A drunken fellow, the son of a drunkard, having stolen control over
+some half-dozen sheets, must be named under the breath or not at all. A
+powerful minister may be accused with sturdy courage of something which he did
+not do and no one would mind his doing, but under the influence of Fear, to
+tell the least little truth about him will put a whole assembly into a sort of
+blankness.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This vice has for its most laughable effect the raising of a whole host of
+phantoms, and when a State is so far gone that civic Fear is quite normal to
+the citizens, then you will find them blenching with terror at a piece of
+print, a whispered accusation. Bankruptcy, though they be possessed of nothing,
+and even the ill-will of women. Moneylenders under this influence have the
+greatest power, next after them, blackmailers of all kinds, and next after
+these eccentrics who may blurt or break out. Those who have least power in the
+decline of a State, are priests, soldiers, the mothers of many children, the
+lovers of one woman, and saints.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap32">On Past Greatness</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+There lies in the North-East of France, close against the Belgian frontier and
+within cannon shot of the famous battlefield of Malplaquet, a little town
+called Bavai—I have written of it elsewhere.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Coming into this little town you seem to be entering no more than a decent,
+unimportant market borough, a larger village meant for country folk, perhaps
+without a history and certainly without fame.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As you come to look about you one thing after another enlivens your curiosity
+and suggests something at once enormous and remote in the destinies of the
+place.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the first place, seven great roads go out like the seven rays of a star,
+plumb straight, darting along the line, across the vast, bare fields of
+Flanders, past and along the many isolated woods of the provinces, and making
+to great capitals far off—to Cologne, to Paris, to Treves, and to the ports of
+the sea.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+These roads are deserted in great part. Some of them are metalled in certain
+sections, and again in other sections are no more than lanes, and again no more
+than footpaths, as you proceed along their miles of way; but their exact design
+awfully impresses the mind. You know, as you follow such strict alignment, that
+you are fulfilling the majestic purpose of Imperial Rome. It was the Romans
+that made these things.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then, intrigued and excited by such remains of greatness, you read what you can
+of the place.... And you find nothing but a dust of legend. You find a story
+that once here a king, filled with ambition and worshipping strange gods,
+thrust out these great roads to the ends of the earth; desired his capital to
+be a hub and navel for the world. He put them under the protection of the seven
+planets and of the deities of those stars. Three he paved with black marble and
+four with white marble, and where they met upon the market place he put up a
+golden terminal. There the legend ends.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is only legend—a true product of the Dark Ages, when all that Rome had done
+rose like a huge dream in the mind of Europe and took on gorgeous and fantastic
+colouring. You learn (for the rest) very little—that ornaments and money have
+been found dating from two thousand years, that once great walls surrounded the
+place. It must have had noble buildings and solemn courts. In strict history
+all you will discover is that it was the capital of that tribe, the Nervii,
+against whom Caesar fought, and whose territory was early conquered for the
+Empire. You will find nothing more. There is no living tradition, there is no
+voice; the little town is dumb.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The place is a figure, and a striking one, of greatness long dead, and a man
+visiting its small domestic interests to-day, and noting its comfort, its
+humility, and its sleep, is reminded of many things attaching to human fame. It
+would seem as though the ambitions of men, and that exalted appetite for glory
+which has produced the chief things of this world, suffer the effect of time
+somewhat as the body of an animal slain will suffer that.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One part of the organism and then another decays and mixes back with nature.
+The effect of will has vanished. The thing is a prey to all that environment
+which, once alive, it combated, conquered, and transformed to its own use. One
+portion after another is lost, until at last only the most resisting stands—the
+skeleton and hard framework, the least expressive, the least personal part of
+the whole. This also decays and perishes. Then there remains no more but a
+score of hardened fragments that linger in their place, and what has passed
+away is fortunate if even the slightest or most fantastic legend of itself
+survives.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The great dead are first forgotten in their physical habit; we lose the nature
+of their voices, we forget their sympathies and their affections. Bit by bit
+all that they intended to be eternal slips back into the common thing around. A
+blurred image, growing fainter and fainter, lingers. At last the person
+vanishes, and in its place some public raising material things—a monument, a
+tomb, an ornament, or weapon of enduring metal—is all that remains.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If it were possible for the spring of appetite and quest to be dried up in man,
+such a spectacle would dry up that spring.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is not possible, for it is providentially in the nature of man to cherish
+these illusions of an immortal memory and of a life bestowed upon the shade or
+the mere name of his living greatness. Those various forms of fame which are
+young men’s goals, and to which the eager creative power of early manhood so
+properly directs itself, seem each in turn or each for its varying temperament
+to promise the desired reward; and one imagines that his love, another that his
+discoveries, another that his victories in the field or his conspicuous acts of
+courage will remain permanently with his fellows long after he has left their
+feast.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As though to give some substance to the flattering cheat, there is one kind of
+fame which men have been permitted to attain, and which does give them a sort
+of fixed tenure—if not for ever, yet for generations upon generations—in the
+human city. This sort of fame is the fame of the great poets. There is nothing
+more enduring. It has for some who were most blessed outlasted, you may say,
+all material things which they handled or they knew—all fabrics, all
+instruments, all habitations. It is comparable in its endurance to the years,
+and a man reads the “Song of Roland” and can still look on that same unchanged
+Cleft of Roncesvalles, or a man reads the Iliad and can look to-day westward
+from the shores to Tenedos. But wait a moment. Are they indeed blessed in this,
+the great poets? Ronsard debated it. He decided that they were, and put into
+the mouth of the muses the great lines:——
+</p>
+
+<p class="poem">
+Mais un tel accident n’arrive point a l’âme,<br/>
+Qui sans matière vist immortelle là haut.
+</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="poem">
+Vela saigement dit, Ceux dont la fantaisie<br/>
+    Sera religieuse et devote envers Dieu<br/>
+Tousjours acheveront quelque grand poésie,<br/>
+    Et dessus leur renom la Parque n’aura lieu.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But the matter is still undecided.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap33">Mr. The Duke: The Man of Malplaquet</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+On the field of Malplaquet, that battlefield, I met a man.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He was pointed out to me as a man who drove travellers to Bavai. His name was
+Mr. The Duke, and he was very poor.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If he comes across these lines (which is exceedingly unlikely) I offer him my
+apologies. Anyhow, I can write about him freely, for he is not rich, and, what
+is more, the laws of his country permit the telling of the truth about our
+fellow-men, even when they are rich.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. The Duke was of some years, and his colour was that of cedar wood. I met
+him in his farmyard, and I said to him:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Is it you, sir, that drive travellers to Bavai?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“No,” said he.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Accustomed by many years of travel to this type of response, I continued:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“How much do you charge?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Two francs fifty,” said he.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I will give you three francs,” I said, and when I had said this he shook his
+head and replied:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You fall at an evil moment; I was about to milk the cows.” Having said this he
+went to harness the horse.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When the horse was harnessed to his little cart (it was an extremely small
+horse, full of little bones and white in colour, with one eye stronger than the
+other) he gave it to his little daughter to hold, and himself sat down to
+table, proposing a meal.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It is but humble fare,” he said, “for we are poor.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This sounded familiar to me; I had both read and heard it before. The meal was
+of bread and butter, pasty and beer, for Malplaquet is a country of beer and
+not of wine.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As he sat at table the old man pointed out to me that contraband across the
+Belgian frontier, which is close by, was no longer profitable.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“The Fraud,” he said, “is no longer a living for anyone.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Upon that frontier contraband is called “The Fraud”; it holds an honourable
+place as a career.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“The Fraud,” he continued, “has gone long ago; it has burst. It is no longer to
+be pursued. There is not even any duty upon apples.... But there is a duty upon
+pears. Had I a son I would not put him into The Fraud.... Sometimes there is
+just a chance here and there.... One can pick up an occasion. But take it all
+in all (and here he wagged his head solemnly) there is nothing in it any more.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I said that I had no experience of contraband professionally, but that I knew a
+very honest man who lived by it in the country of Andorra, and that according
+to my morals a man had a perfect right to run the risk and take his chance, for
+there was no contract between him and the power he was trying to get round.
+This announcement pleased the old gentleman, but it did not grip his mind. He
+was of your practical sort. He was almost a Pragmatist. Abstractions wearied
+him. He put no faith in the reality of ideas. I think he was a Nominalist like
+Abelard: and whatever excuse you may make for him, Abelard was a Nominalist
+right enough, for it was the intellectual thing to be at the time, though St.
+Bernard utterly confuted him in arguments of enormous length and incalculable
+boredom.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The old man, then, I say, would have nothing to do with first principles, and
+he reasserted his position that, in the concrete, in the existent world, The
+Fraud no longer paid.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This said for the sixth or seventh time, he drank some brandy to put heart into
+him and climbed up into his little cart, I by his side. He hit the white horse
+with a stick, making at the same time an extraordinary shrill noise with his
+mouth, like a siren, and the horse began to slop and sludge very dolefully
+towards Bavai.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“This horse,” said Mr. The Duke, “is a wonderfully good horse. He goes like the
+wind. He is of Arab extraction, and comes from Africa.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+With these words he gave the horse another huge blow with his stick, and once
+more emitted his piercing cry. The horse went neither faster nor slower than
+before, and seemed very indifferent to the whole performance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“He is from Africa,” said Mr. The Duke again, meditatively. “Do you know
+Africa?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Africa with the French populace means Algiers. I answered that I knew it, and
+that in particular I knew the road southward from Constantine. At this he
+looked very pleased, and said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I was a soldier in Africa. I deserted seven times.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To this I made no answer. I did not know how he wanted me to take it, so I
+waited until he should speak again, which he soon did, and said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“The last time I deserted I was free for a year and a half. I used to conduct
+beasts; that was my trade. When they caught me I was to have been shot. I was
+saved by the tears of a woman!”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Having said this the old man pulled out a very small pipe and filled it with
+exceedingly black tobacco. He lit it, then he began talking again rather more
+excitedly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It is a terrible thing and an unhappy thing none the less,” he went on, “that
+a man should be taken out to be shot and should be saved by the tears of a
+woman.” Then he added, “Of what use are wars? How foolish it is that men should
+kill each other! If there were a war I would not fight. Would you?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I said I thought I would; but whether I should like to or not would depend upon
+the war.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He was eager to contradict and to tell me that war was wrong and stupid. Having
+behind him the logical training of fifteen Christian centuries he was in no way
+muddle-headed upon the matter. He saw very well that his doctrine meant that it
+was wrong to have a country, and wrong to love it, and that patriotism was all
+bosh, and that no ideal was worth physical pain or trouble. To such conclusions
+had he come at the end of his life.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The white horse meanwhile slouched; Bavai grew somewhat nearer as we sat in
+silence after his last sentence. He was turning many things over in his mind.
+He veered off on to political economy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“When the rich man at the Manufactory here, the place where they sell
+phosphates for the land, when he stands beer to all the workmen and to the
+countryside, I always say, ‘Fools! All this will be put on to the cost of the
+phosphates; they will cost you more!’”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. The Duke did not accept John Stuart Mill’s proposition upon the cost of
+production nor the general theories of Ricardo upon which Mill’s propositions
+were based. In his opinion rent was a factor in the cost of production, for he
+told me that butter had gone up because the price of land was rising near the
+towns. In what he next said I found out that he was not a Collectivist, for he
+said a man should own enough to live upon, but he said that this was impossible
+if rich people were allowed to live. I asked him what the politics of the
+countryside were and how people voted. He said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“The politicians trick the people. They are a heap of worthlessness.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I asked him if he voted, and he said “yes.” He said there was only one way to
+vote, but I did not understand what this meant.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Had time served I should have asked him further questions—upon the nature of
+the soul, its ultimate fate, the origin of man and his destiny, whether mortal
+or immortal; the proper constitution of the State, the choice of the
+legislator, the prince, and the magistrate; the function of art, whether it is
+subsidiary or primary in human life; the family; marriage. Upon the State he
+had already informed me, and also upon the institution of property, and upon
+his view of armies. Upon all those other things he would equally have given me
+a clear reply, for he was a man that knew his own mind, and that is more than
+most people can say.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But we were now in Bavai, and I had no time to discover more. We drank together
+before we parted, and I was very pleased to see the honest look in his face.
+With more leisure and born to greater opportunities he would have been talked
+about, this Man of Malplaquet. He had come to his odd conclusions as the funny
+people do in Scandinavia and in Russia, and among the rich intellectuals and
+usurers in London and Berlin; but he was a jollier man than they are, for he
+could drive a horse and lie about it, and he could also milk a cow. As we
+parted he used a phrase that wounded me, and which I had only heard once before
+in my life. He said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“We shall never see each other again!”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Another man had once said this thing to me before. This man was a farmer in the
+Northumbrian hills, who walked with me a little way in the days when I was
+going over Carter Fell to find the Scots people, many, many years ago. He also
+said: “We shall never meet again!”
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap34">The Game of Cards</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+A youth of no more than twenty-three years entered a first-class carriage at
+the famous station of Swindon in the county of Wiltshire, proposing to travel
+to the uttermost parts of the West and to enjoy a comfortable loneliness while
+he ruminated upon all things human and divine; when he was sufficiently annoyed
+to discover that in the further corner of the carriage was sitting an old
+gentleman of benevolent appearance, or at any rate a gentleman of benevolent
+appearance who appeared in his youthful eyes to be old.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For though the old gentleman was, as a fact, but sixty, yet his virile beard
+had long gone white and the fringes of hair attaching to his ostrich egg of a
+head confirmed his venerable appearance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When the train had started the young man proceeded in no very good temper and
+with great solemnity to fill a pipe. He turned to his senior, who was watching
+him in a very paternal and happy manner, and said formally:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I hope you do not mind my smoking, sir?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Not at all,” said the old boy; “it is a habit I have long grown accustomed to
+in others.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The young man bowed in a somewhat absurd fashion and felt for his matches. He
+discovered to his no small mortification that he had none. He was so used to
+his pipe after a meal that he really could not forgo it. He came off his perch
+by at least three steps and asked the old man very gently whether he had any
+matches.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The older man produced a box and at the same time brought out with it a little
+notebook and a playing card which happened to be in his pocket. The young man
+took the matches and lit his pipe, surveying the old man the while with a more
+complacent eye.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It is very kind of you, sir,” he said a little less stiffly. He handed back
+the matches, wrapped his rug round his legs, sat down in his place, and knowing
+that one should prolong the conversation for a moment or two after a favour,
+said: “I see that you play cards.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I do,” said the old man simply; “would you like a game?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I don’t mind,” said the young man, who had always heard that it was unmanly
+and ridiculous to refuse a game of cards in a railway carriage.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The elder man laughed merrily in his strong beard as he saw his junior begin to
+spread somewhat awkwardly a copy of a newspaper upon his knees. “I’ll show you
+a trick worth two of that,” he said, and taking one of the first-class
+cushions, which alone of railway cushions are movable from its place, he came
+over to the corner opposite the young man and made a table of the cushion
+between them. “Now,” said he genially, “what’s it to be?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Well,” said the young man like one who expounds new mysteries, “do you know
+piquet?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Oh, yes,” said his companion with another happy little laugh of contentment
+with the world. “I’ll take you on. What shall it be?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Pennies if you like,” said the young man nonchalantly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Very well, and double for the Rubicon.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“How do you mean?” said the young man, puzzled.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You will see,” said the old man, and they began to play.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The game was singularly absorbing. At first the young man won a few pounds;
+then he lost rather heavily, then he won again, but not quite enough to recoup.
+Then in the fourth game he won, so that he was a little ahead, and meanwhile
+the old man chatted merrily during the discarding or the shuffling: during the
+shuffling especially. He looked out towards the downs with something of a sigh
+at one moment, and said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It’s a happy world.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Yes,” answered the younger man with the proper lugubriousness of youth, “but
+it all comes to an end.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It isn’t its coming to an end,” said the elder man, declaring a point of six,
+“that’s not the tragedy; it’s the little bits coming to an end meanwhile,
+before the whole comes to an end: that’s the tragedy....” But he added with
+another of his jolly laughs: “We must play. Piquet takes up all one’s grey
+matter.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They played and the young man lost again, but by a very narrow margin: it was
+quite an absorbing game. As they shuffled again the young man said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“What did you mean by the little bits stopping, or whatever it was?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Oh,” said the old man as though he couldn’t remember, and then he added: “Oh,
+yes, I mean you’ll find, as you grow older, people die and affections change,
+and, though it seems silly to mention it in company with higher things, there’s
+what Shelley called the ‘contagion of the world’s slow stain.’”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then their conversation was interrupted by the ardour of the game; but as they
+played the young man was ruminating, and he had come to the conclusion that his
+senior was imperfectly educated and was probably of the middle classes, whereas
+he himself was destined to be a naval architect, and with that object had
+recently left the university for an office in the city. The young man thought
+that a man properly educated would never quote a tag: he was wrong there. As he
+had allowed his thoughts to wander somewhat the young man lost that game rather
+heavily, and at the end of it he was altogether about ten shillings to the bad.
+It was his turn to shuffle. The older man was at leisure to speak, and did so
+rather dreamily as he gazed at the landscape again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Things change, you know,” he said, “and there is the contagion of the world’s
+slow stain. One gets preoccupied: especially about money. When men marry they
+get very much preoccupied upon that point. It’s bad for them, but it can’t be
+helped.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You cut,” said the young man.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+His elder cut and they played again. This time as they played their game the
+old man broke his rule of silence and continued his observations interruptedly:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Four kings,” he said.... “It isn’t that a man gets to think money
+all-important, it is that he has to think of it all the time.... No, three
+queens are no good. I said four kings.... four knaves.... The little losses of
+money don’t affect one, but perpetual trouble about it does, and” (closing up
+the majority of tricks which he had just gained) “many a man goes on making
+more year after year and yet feels himself in peril.... <i>And</i> the last
+trick.” He took up the cards to shuffle them. “Towards the very end of life,”
+he continued, “it gets less, I suppose, but you’ll feel the burden of it.” He
+put the pack over for the younger man to cut. When that was done he dealt them
+out slowly. As he dealt he said: “One feels the loss of little material things:
+objects to which one was attached, a walking-stick, or a ring, or a watch which
+one has carried for years. Your declare.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The young man declared, and that game was played in silence. I regret to say
+that the young man was Rubiconed, and was thirty shillings in the elder’s debt.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“We’ll stop if you like” said the elder man kindly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Oh, no,” said the youth with nonchalance, “I’ll pay you now if you like.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Not at all, I didn’t mean that,” said the older man with a sudden prick of
+honour.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Oh, but I will, and we’ll start fair again,” said the young man. Whereupon he
+handed over his combined losses in gold, the older man gave him change, they
+shuffled again, and they went on with their play.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“After all,” said the older man, musing as he confessed to a point of no more
+than five, “it’s all in the day’s work.... It’s just a day’s work,” he repeated
+with a saddened look in his eyes, “it’s a game that one plays like this game,
+and then when it’s over it’s over. It’s the little losses that count.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+That game again was unfortunate for the young man, and he had to shell out
+fifteen and six. But the brakes were applied, Bristol was reached, the train
+came to a standstill, and the young man, looking up a little confused and
+hurried, said: “Hello, Bristol! I get out here.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“So do I,” said the older man. They both stood up together, and the jolt of the
+train as it stopped dead threw them into each other’s arms.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I am really very sorry,” said the youth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It’s my fault,” said the old chap like a good fellow, “I ought to have caught
+hold. You get out and I’ll hand you your bag.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“It’s very kind of you,” said the young man. He was really flattered by so much
+attention, but he knew himself what a good companion he was and he could
+understand it; besides which they had made friends during that little journey.
+He always liked a man to whom he had lost some money in an honest game.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was a heavy crowd upon the platform, and two men barging up out of it
+saluted the old man boisterously by the name of Jack. He twinkled at them with
+his eyes as he began moving the luggage about, and stood for a moment in the
+doorway with his own bag in his right hand and the young man’s bag in his left.
+The young man so saw it for an instant, a fine upstanding figure—he saw his bag
+handed by some mistake to the second of the old man’s friends, a porter came by
+at the moment pushing through the crowd with a trolley, an old lady made a
+scene, the porter apologized, the crowd took sides, some for the porter, some
+for the old lady; the young man, with the deference of his age, politely asked
+several people to make way, but when he had emerged from the struggle his
+companion, his companion’s friends, and his own bag could not be found; or at
+any rate he could not make out where they were in the great mass that pushed
+and surged upon the platform.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He made himself a little conspicuous by asking too many questions and by losing
+his temper twice with people who had done him no harm, when, just as his
+excitement was growing more than querulous, a very heavy, stupid-looking man in
+regulation boots tapped him on the shoulder and said: “Follow me.” He was
+prepared with an oath by way of reply, but another gentleman of equal weight,
+wearing boots of the same pattern, linked his arm in his and between them they
+marched him away, to a little private closet opening out of the stationmaster’s
+room.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Now, sir,” said he who had first tapped him on the shoulder, “be good enough
+to explain your movements.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I don’t know what you mean,” said the young man.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You were in the company,” said the older man severely, “of an old man, bald,
+with a white beard and a blue sailor suit. He had come from London; you joined
+him at Swindon. We have evidence that he was to be met at this station and it
+will be to your advantage if you make a clean breast of it.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The young man was violent and he was borne away.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But he had friends at Bristol. He gave his references and he was released. To
+this day he believes that he suffered not from folly, but from injustice. He
+did not see his bag again, but after all it contained no more than his evening
+clothes, for which he had paid or rather owed six guineas, four shirts, as many
+collars and dress ties, a silver-mounted set of brushes and combs, and useless
+cut-glass bottles, a patented razor, a stick of shaving soap, and two very,
+very confidential letters which he treasured. His watch, of course, was gone,
+but not, I am glad to say, his chain, which hung dangling, though in his flurry
+he had not noticed it. It made him look a trifle ridiculous. As he wore no
+tie-pin he had not lost that, and beyond his temper he had indeed lost nothing
+further save, possibly, a textbook upon Thermodynamics. This book he
+<i>thought</i> he remembered having put into the bag, and if he had it belonged
+to his library, but he could not quite remember this point, and when the
+Library claimed it he stoutly disputed their claim.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In this dispute he was successful, but it was the only profit he made out of
+that journey, unless we are to count his experience, and experience, as all the
+world knows, is a thing that men must buy.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap35">“King Lear”</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+The great unity which was built up two thousand years ago and was called
+Christendom in its final development split and broke in pieces. The various
+civilizations of its various provinces drifted apart, and it will be for the
+future historian to say at what moment the isolation of each from all was
+farthest pushed. It is certain that that point is passed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the task of reuniting what was broken—it is the noblest work a modern man
+can do—the very first mechanical act must be to explain one national soul to
+another. That act is not final. The nations of Europe, now so divided, still
+have more in common than those things by which they differ, and it is certain
+that when they have at last revealed to them their common origin they will
+return to it. They will return to it, perhaps, under the pressure of war waged
+by some not Christian civilization, but they will return. In the meanwhile, of
+those acts not final, yet of immediate necessity in the task of establishing
+unity, is the act of introducing one national soul to another.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now this is best accomplished in a certain way which I will describe. You will
+take that part in the letters of a nation which you maturely judge most or best
+to reflect the full national soul, with its qualities, careless of whether
+these be great or little; you will take such a work as reproduces for you as
+you read it, not only in its sentiment, but in its very rhythm, the stuff and
+colour of the nation; this you will present to the foreigner, who cannot
+understand. His efforts must be laborious, very often unfruitful, but where it
+is fruitful it will be of a decisive effect.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus let anyone take some one of the immortal things that Racine wrote and show
+them to an Englishman. He will hardly ever be able to make anything of it at
+first. Here and there some violently emotional passage may faintly touch him,
+but the mass of the verse will seem to him dead. Now, if by constant reading,
+by association with those who know what Racine is, he at last sees him—and
+these changes in the mind come very suddenly—he will see into the soul of Gaul.
+For the converse task, to-day not equally difficult but once almost impossible,
+of presenting England to the French intelligence—or, indeed, to any other alien
+intelligence—you may choose the play “King Lear.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+That play has every quality which does reflect the soul of the community in
+which and for which it was written. Note a few in their order.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+First, it is not designed to its end; at least it is not designed accurately to
+its end; it is written as a play and it is meant to be acted as a play, and it
+is the uniform opinion of those versed in plays and in acting that in its full
+form it could hardly be presented, while in any form it is the hardest even of
+Shakespeare’s plays to perform. Here you have a parallel with a thousand mighty
+English things to which you can turn. Is there not institution after
+institution to decide on, so lacking a complete fitness to its end, larger in a
+way than the end it is to serve, and having, as it were, a life of its own
+which proceeds apart from its effect? This quality which makes so many English
+things growths rather than instruments is most evident in the great play.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Again, it has that quality which Voltaire noted, which he thought abnormal in
+Shakespeare, but which is the most national characteristic in him, that a sort
+of formlessness, if it mars the framework of the thing and spoils it, yet also
+permits the exercise of an immeasurable vitality. When a man has read “King
+Lear” and lays down the book he is like one who has been out in one of those
+empty English uplands in a storm by night. It is written as though the pen bred
+thoughts. It is possible to conjecture as one reads, and especially in the
+diatribes, that the pen itself was rapid and the brain too rapid for the pen.
+One feels the rush of the air. Now, this quality is to be discovered in the
+literature of many nations, but never with the fullness which it has in the
+literature of England. And note that in those phases of the national life when
+foreign models have constrained this instinct of expansion in English verse,
+they never have restrained it for long, and that even through the bonds
+established by those models the instinct of expansion breaks. You see it in the
+exuberance of Dryden and in the occasional running rhetoric of Pope, until it
+utterly loosens itself with the end of the eighteenth century.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The play is national, again, in that permanent curiosity upon knowable
+things—nay, that mysterious half-knowledge of unknowable things—which, in its
+last forms, produced the mystic, and which is throughout history so plainly
+characteristic of these Northern Atlantic islands. Every play of Shakespeare
+builds with that material, and no writer, even of the English turn, has sent
+out points further into the region of what is not known than Shakespeare has in
+sudden flashes of phrase. But “King Lear,” though it contains a lesser number
+of lines of this mystical and half-religious effect than, say, “Hamlet,” yet as
+a general impression is the more mystical of the two plays. The element of
+madness, which in “Hamlet” hangs in the background like a storm-cloud ready to
+break, in “King Lear” rages; and it is the use of this which lends its amazing
+psychical power to the play. It has been said (with no great profundity of
+criticism) that English fiction is chiefly remarkable for its power of
+particularization of character, and that where French work, for instance, will
+present ideas, English will present persons. The judgment is grossly
+insufficient, and therefore false, but it is based upon a proof which is very
+salient in English letters, which is that, say, in quite short and modern work
+the sense of complete unity deadens the English mind. The same nerve which
+revolts at a straight road and at a code of law revolts against one tone of
+thought, and the sharp contrast of emotional character, not the dual contrast
+which is common to all literatures, but the multiple contrast, runs through
+“King Lear” and gives the work such a tone that one seems as one reads it to be
+moving in a cloud.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The conclusion is perhaps Shakespearean rather than English, and in a fashion
+escapes from any national labelling. But the note of silence which Shakespeare
+suddenly brings in upon the turmoil, and with which he is so fond of completing
+what he has done, would not be possible were not that spirit of expansion and
+of a kind of literary adventurousness present in all that went before.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is indeed this that makes the play so memorable. And it may not be fantastic
+to repeat and expand what has been said above in other words, namely, that King
+Lear has something about him which seems to be a product of English landscape
+and of English weather, and if its general movement is a storm its element is
+one of those sudden silences that come sometimes with such magical rapidity
+after the booming of the wind.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap36">The Excursion</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+It is so old a theme that I really hesitate to touch it; and yet it is so true
+and so useful that I will. It is true all the time, and it is particularly
+useful at this season of the year to men in cities: to all repetitive men: to
+the men that read these words. What is more, true as it is and useful as it is,
+no amount of hammering at people seems to get this theme into their practice;
+though it has long ago entered into their convictions they will not act upon it
+in their summers. And this true and useful theme is the theme of little
+freedoms and discoveries, the value of getting loose and away by a small trick
+when you want to get your glimpse of Fairyland.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now how does one get loose and away?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When a man says to himself that he must have a holiday he means that he must
+see quite new things that are also old: he desires to open that door which
+stood wide like a window in childhood and is now shut fast. But where are the
+new things that are also the old? Paradoxical fellows who deserve drowning tell
+one that they are at our very doors. Well, that is true of the eager mind, but
+the mind is no longer eager when it is in need of a holiday. And you can get at
+the new things that are also the old by way of drugs, but drugs are a poor sort
+of holiday fabric. If you have stored up your memory well with much experience
+you can get these things from your memory—but only in a pale sort of way.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I think the best avenue to recreation by the magical impressions of the world
+upon the mind is this: To go to some place to which the common road leads you
+and then to get just off the common road. You will be astonished to find how
+strange the world becomes in the first mile—and how strange it remains till the
+common road is reached again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It always sounds like a mockery for a man who has travelled to a great many
+places, as I have, to advise his fellows to travel abroad; they are most of
+them hard tied. Yet it is really a much easier thing than men bound to the desk
+and the workshop understand. Britain is but one great port, and its inward seas
+are narrow—and the fares are ridiculously low. If you are a young man you can
+go almost anywhere for almost anything, sitting up by night on deck, and not
+expecting too much courtesy. But, of course, if you shirk the sea you are a
+prisoner.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, then, supposing you abroad, or even in some other part of this highly
+varied kingdom in which you live, and supposing you to have reached some chosen
+place by some common road—what I desire to dilate upon here is the truth which
+every little excursion of business or of leisure (and precious few of leisure)
+makes me more certain of every day: That just a little way off the road is
+fairyland.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was exactly three days ago that I had occasion to go down the railway line
+that is the most frequented in Europe: I was on business, not leisure, but in
+the business I had two days’ leisure, and I did what I would advise all other
+men to do in such a circumstance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I took a train to nowhere, fixing my starting-point thus:—
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I first looked at the map and saw where nearest to me was a quadrilateral bare
+of railways. This formula, to look for a quadrilateral bare of railways, is a
+very useful formula for the man who is seeking another world. Then I fixed at
+random upon one little roadside station upon the main line; I determined to get
+out there and to walk aimlessly and westward until I should strike the other
+side of the quadrilateral. I made no plan, not even of the hours of the day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I came into my roadside station at half-past eight of the long summer night,
+broad daylight that is, but with night advancing. I got out and began my
+westward march. At once there crowded upon me any number of unexpected and
+entertaining things!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The first thing I found was a street which was used by horses as well as by
+men, and yet was made up of broad steps. It was a sort of stair-case going up a
+hill. At the top of it I found a woman leading a child by the hand. I asked her
+the name of the steps. She told me they were called “The Steps of St. John.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A quarter of a mile further down the narrow lane I saw to my astonishment an
+enormous castle, ruined and open to the sky. There are many such ruins famous
+in Europe, but of this one I had never even heard. I went lonely under the
+evening and looked at its main gate and saw on it a moulded escutcheon, carved,
+and the motto in French, “Henceforward,” which word made me think a great deal,
+but resolved no problem in my mind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I went on again westward as the darkness fell and saw what I had not seen
+before, though my reading had told me of its existence, a long line of trees
+marking a ridge on the horizon, which line was the border of that ancient road
+the Roman soldiers built leading from the west into Amiens. “Along that road,”
+thought I, “St. Martin rode before he became a monk, and while he was yet a
+soldier and was serving under Julian the Apostate. Along that road he came to
+the west gate of Amiens and there cut his cloak in two and gave the half of it
+to a beggar.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The memory of St. Martin’s deed entertained me for some miles of my way, and I
+remembered how, when I was a child, it had seemed to me ridiculous to cut your
+coat in two whether for a beggar or for anybody else. Not that I thought
+charity ridiculous—God forbid!—but that a coat seemed to me a thing you could
+not cut in two with any profit to the user of either half. You might cut it in
+latitude and turn it into an Eton jacket and a kilt, neither of much use to a
+Gallo-Roman beggar. Or you might cut it in meridian and leave but one sleeve:
+mere folly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Considering these things, I went on over the rolling plateau. I saw a great owl
+flying before me against the sky, different from the owls of home. I saw
+Jupiter shining above a cloud and Venus shining below one. The long light
+lingered in the north above the English sea. At last I came quite unexpectedly
+upon that delight and plaything of the French: a light railway, or steam tram
+such as that people build in great profusion to link up their villages and
+their streams. The road where I came upon it made a level crossing, and there
+was a hut there, and a woman living in it who kept the level crossing and
+warned the passers-by. She told me no more trains, or rather little trams,
+would pass that night, but that three miles further on I should come to a place
+called “The Mills of the Vidame.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now the name “Vidame” reminded me that a “Vidame” was the lay protector of a
+Cathedral Chapter in feudal times, so the name gave me a renewed pleasure.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But it was now near midnight, and when I came to this village I remembered how
+in similar night walks I had sometimes been refused lodging. When I got among
+the few houses all was dark. I found, however, in the darkness two young men,
+each bearing an enormous curled trumpet of the kind which the French call
+<i>cors de chasse</i>, that is, hunting horns, so I asked them where the inn
+was. They took me to it and woke up the hostess, who received us with oaths.
+This she did lest the young men with hunting horns should demand a commission.
+Her heart, however, was better than her mouth, and she put me up, but she
+charged me tenpence for my room, counting coffee in the morning, which was, I
+am sure, more than her usual rate.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Next day I took the little steam tram away from the place and went on vaguely
+whither it should please God to take me, until the plateau changed and the
+light railway fell into a charming valley, and, seeing a town rooted therein, I
+got out and paid my fare and visited the town. In this town I went to church,
+as it was early morning (you must excuse the foible), and, coming out of
+church, I had an argument with a working man upon the matter of religion, in
+which argument, as I believe, I was the victor. I then went on north out of
+this town and came into a wood of enormous size. It was miles and miles across,
+and the trees were higher than anything I have seen outside of California. It
+was an enchanted wood. The sun shone down through a hundred feet of silence by
+little rounds between the leaves, and there was silence everywhere. In this
+wood I sojourned all day long, making slowly westward, till, in the very midst
+of it, I found a troubled man. He was a man of middle age, short, intelligent,
+fat, and weary. He said to me:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Have you noticed any special mark upon the trees? A white mark of the number
+90?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“No,” said I. “Are there any wild boars in this forest?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Yes,” he answered, “a few, but not of use. I am looking for trees marked in
+white with the number 90. I have paid a price for them, and I cannot find
+them.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I saluted him and went on my way. At last I came to an open clearing, where
+there was a town, and in the town I found a very delightful inn, where they
+would cook anything one felt inclined for, within reason, and charged one very
+moderately indeed. I have retained its name.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+By this time I was completely lost, and in the heart of Fairyland, when
+suddenly I remembered that everyone that strikes root in Fairyland loses
+something, at the least his love and at the worst his soul, and that it is a
+perilous business to linger there, so I asked them in that hotel how they
+worked it when they wanted to go west into the great towns. They put me into an
+omnibus, which charged me fourpence for a journey of some two miles. It took
+me, as Heaven ordained, to a common great railway, and that common great
+railway took me through the night to the town of Dieppe, which I have known
+since I could speak and before, and which was about as much of Fairyland to me
+as Piccadilly or Monday morning.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus ended those two days, in which I had touched again the unknown places—and
+all that heaven was but two days, and cost me not fifty shillings.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Excuse the folly of this.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap37">The Tide</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+I wish I had been one of those men who first sailed beyond the Pillars of
+Hercules and first saw, as they edged northward along a barbarian shore, the
+slow swinging of the sea. How much, I wonder, did they think themselves
+enlarged? How much did they know that all the civilization behind them, the
+very ancient world of the Mediterranean, was something protected and enclosed
+from which they had escaped into an outer world? And how much did they feel
+that here they were now physically caught by the moving tides that bore them in
+the whole movement of things?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For the tide is of that kind; and the movement of the sea four times daily back
+and forth is a consequence, a reflection, and a part of the ceaseless pulse and
+rhythm which animates all things made and which links what seems not living to
+what certainly lives and feels and has power over all movement of its own. The
+circuits of the planets stretch and then recede. Their ellipses elongate and
+flatten again to the semblance of circles. The Poles slowly nod once every many
+thousand years, there is a libration to the moon; and in all this vast
+harmonious process of come and go the units of it twirl and spin, and, as they
+spin, run more gravely in ordered procession round their central star: that
+star moves also to a beat, and all the stars of heaven move each in times of
+its own as well, and their movement is one thing altogether. Whoever should
+receive the mighty business moving in one ear would get the music of it in a
+perfect series of chords, superimposed the one upon the other, but not a
+tremble of them out of tune.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The great scheme is not infinite, for were it infinite such rhythms could not
+be. It was made, and it moves in order to the scheme of its making without
+caprice, not wayward anywhere, but in and out and back and forth as to a figure
+set for it. It must be so, or these exact arrangements could not be.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now with this regulated breathing and expiration, playing itself out in a
+million ways and co-extensive with the universe of things, the tides keep time,
+and they alone of earthly things bring its actual force to our physical
+perception, to our daily life. We see the sea in movement and power before us
+heaving up whatever it may bear, and we feel in an immediate way its strong
+backward sagging when the rocks appear above it as it falls. We have our hand
+on the throb of the current turning in a salting river inland between green
+hills; we are borne upon it bodily as we sail, its movement kicks the tiller in
+our grasp, and the strength beneath us and around us, the rush and the
+compulsion of the stream, its silence and as it were its purpose, all represent
+to us, immediately and here, that immeasurable to and fro which rules the
+skies.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When the Roman soldiers came marching northward with Caesar and first saw the
+shores of ocean: when, after that occupation of Gaul which has changed the
+world, they first mounted guard upon the quays of the Itian port under
+Gris-Nez, or the rocky inlets of the Veneti by St. Malo and the Breton reefs,
+they were appalled to see what for centuries chance traders and the few curious
+travellers, the men of Marseilles and of the islands, had seen before them.
+They saw in numbers and in a corporate way what hitherto individuals alone had
+seen; they saw the sea like a living thing, advancing and retreating in an
+ordered dance, alive with deep sighs and intakes, and ceaselessly proceeding
+about a work and a doing which seemed to be the very visible action of an
+unchanging will still pleased with calculated change. It was the presence of
+the Roman army upon the shores of the Channel which brought the Tide into the
+general conscience of Europe, and that experience, I think, was among the
+greatest, perhaps the greatest, of those new things which rushed upon the mind
+of the Empire when it launched itself by the occupation of Gaul.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The tide, when it is mentioned in brief historical records of times long since,
+suddenly strikes one with vividness and with familiarity, so that the past is
+introduced at once, presented to us physically, and obtruded against our modern
+senses alive. I know of no other physical thing mentioned in this fashion, in
+chronicle or biography, which has so powerful an effect to restore the reality
+of a dead century.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Venerable Bede is speaking in one place of Southampton Water, in his
+ecclesiastical history, or, rather, of the Isle of Wight, whence those two
+Princes were baptized and died under Cadwalla. As the historian speaks of the
+place he says:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“In this sea” (which is the Solent) “comes a double tide out of the seas which
+spring from the infinite ocean of the Arctic surrounding all Britain.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And he tells us how these double tides rush together and fight together,
+sweeping as they do round either side of the island by the Needles and by
+Spithead into the land-locked sheet within.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now that passage in Bede’s fourth book is more real to me than anything in all
+his chronicle, for in Southampton Water to-day the living thing which we still
+note as we sail is the double tide. You take a falling tide at the head of the
+water, near Southampton Town, and if you are not quick with your business it is
+checked in two hours and you meet a strange flood, the second flood, before you
+have rounded Calshott Castle.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then there is a Charter of Newcastle. Or, rather, the inviolable Customs of
+that town, very old, drawn up nearly eight hundred years ago, but beginning
+from far earlier; and in these customs you find written:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“If a plea shall arise between a burgess and a merchant it must be determined
+before the third flowing of the sea”—that is, within three tides; a wise
+provision! For thus the merchant would not miss the last tide of the day after
+the quarrel. How living it is, a phrase of that sort coming in the midst of
+those other phrases!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All the rest, worse luck, has gone. Burgage-tenure, and the economic
+independence of the humble, and the busy, healthy life of men working to enrich
+themselves, not others, and that corporate association which was the blood of
+the Middle Ages, and the power of popular opinion, and, in general, freedom.
+But out of all these things that have perished, the tide remains, and in the
+eighteen clauses of the Customs, the tidal clause alone stands fresh and still
+has meaning. The capital, great clinching clause by which men owned their own
+land within the town has gone utterly and altogether. The modern workman on the
+Tyne would not understand you perhaps, to whom in that very place you should
+say, “Many centuries ago the men that came before you here, your fathers, were
+not working precariously at a wage, or paying rent to others, but living under
+their own roofs and working for themselves.” There is only one passage in the
+document that all could understand in Newcastle to-day—the very few rich who
+are hardly secure, the myriads of poor who are not secure at all—and that
+passage is the passage which talks of the third tide; for even to-day there is
+some good we have left undestroyed and the sea still ebbs and flows.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This little note of the Newcastle men, and of the flowing and the ebbing of
+their sea, is to be found, you say, in the archives of England? Not at all! It
+is to be found in the Acts of the Parliament of Scotland—at least, so my book
+assures me, but why I do not know. Perhaps of the times when between Tyne and
+Tees, men looked northward and of the times when they looked southward (for
+they alternately did one and the other during many hundreds of years) those
+times when they looked northward seemed the more natural to them. Anyhow, the
+reference is to the Acts of the Parliament of Scotland, and that is the end of
+it.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap38">On a Great Wind</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+It is an old dispute among men, or rather a dispute as old as mankind, whether
+Will be a cause of things or no; nor is there anything novel in those moderns
+who affirm that Will is nothing to the matter, save their ignorant belief that
+their affirmation is new.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The intelligent process whereby I know that Will not seems but is, and can
+alone be truly and ultimately a cause, is fed with stuff and strengthens
+sacramentally as it were, whenever I meet, and am made the companion of, a
+great wind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is not that this lively creature of God is indeed perfected with a soul;
+this it would be superstition to believe. It has no more a person than any
+other of its material fellows, but in its vagary of way, in the largeness of
+its apparent freedom, in its rush of purpose, it seems to mirror the action of
+mighty spirit. When a great wind comes roaring over the eastern flats towards
+the North Sea, driving over the Fens and the Wringland, it is like something of
+this island that must go out and wrestle with the water, or play with it in a
+game or a battle; and when, upon the western shores, the clouds come bowling up
+from the horizon, messengers, outriders, or comrades of a gale, it is something
+of the sea determined to possess the land. The rising and falling of such
+power, its hesitations, its renewed violence, its fatigue and final repose—all
+these are symbols of a mind; but more than all the rest, its exultation! It is
+the shouting and the hurrahing of the wind that suits a man.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Note you, we have not many friends. The older we grow and the better we can
+sift mankind, the fewer friends we count, although man lives by friendship. But
+a great wind is every man’s friend, and its strength is the strength of
+good-fellowship; and even doing battle with it is something worthy and well
+chosen. If there is cruelty in the sea, and terror in high places, and malice
+lurking in profound darkness, there is no one of these qualities in the wind,
+but only power. Here is strength too full for such negations as cruelty, as
+malice, or as fear; and that strength in a solemn manner proves and tests
+health in our own souls. For with terror (of the sort I mean—terror of the
+abyss or panic at remembered pain, and in general, a losing grip of the
+succours of the mind), and with malice, and with cruelty, and with all the
+forms of that Evil which lies in wait for men, there is the savour of disease.
+It is an error to think of such things as power set up in equality against
+justice and right living. We were not made for them, but rather for influences
+large and soundly poised; we are not subject to them but to other powers that
+can always enliven and relieve. It is health in us, I say, to be full of
+heartiness and of the joy of the world, and of whether we have such health our
+comfort in a great wind is a good test indeed. No man spends his day upon the
+mountains when the wind is out, riding against it or pushing forward on foot
+through the gale, but at the end of his day feels that he has had a great host
+about him. It is as though he had experienced armies. The days of high winds
+are days of innumerable sounds, innumerable in variation of tone and of
+intensity, playing upon and awakening innumerable powers in man. And the days
+of high wind are days in which a physical compulsion has been about us and we
+have met pressure and blows, resisted and turned them; it enlivens us with the
+simulacrum of war by which nations live, and in the just pursuit of which men
+in companionship are at their noblest.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is pretended sometimes (less often perhaps now than a dozen years ago) that
+certain ancient pursuits congenial to man will be lost to him under his new
+necessities; thus men sometimes talk foolishly of horses being no longer
+ridden, houses no longer built of wholesome wood and stone, but of metal; meat
+no more roasted, but only baked; and even of stomachs grown too weak for wine.
+There is a fashion of saying these things, and much other nastiness. Such talk
+is (thank God!) mere folly; for man will always at last tend to his end, which
+is happiness, and he will remember again to do all those things which serve
+that end. So it is with the uses of the wind, and especially the using of the
+wind with sails.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+No man has known the wind by any of its names who has not sailed his own boat
+and felt life in the tiller. Then it is that a man has most to do with the
+wind, plays with it, coaxes or refuses it, is wary of it all along; yields when
+he must yield, but comes up and pits himself again against its violence; trains
+it, harnesses it, calls it if it fails him, denounces it if it will try to be
+too strong, and in every manner conceivable handles this glorious playmate.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As for those who say that men did but use the wind as an instrument for
+crossing the sea, and that sails were mere machines to them, either they have
+never sailed or they were quite unworthy of sailing. It is not an accident that
+the tall ships of every age of varying fashions so arrested human sight and
+seemed so splendid. The whole of man went into their creation, and they
+expressed him very well; his cunning, and his mastery, and his adventurous
+heart. For the wind is in nothing more capitally our friend than in this, that
+it has been, since men were men, their ally in the seeking of the unknown and
+in their divine thirst for travel which, in its several aspects—pilgrimage,
+conquest, discovery, and, in general, enlargement—is one prime way whereby man
+fills himself with being.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I love to think of those Norwegian men who set out eagerly before the
+north-east wind when it came down from their mountains in the month of March
+like a god of great stature to impel them to the West. They pushed their Long
+Keels out upon the rollers, grinding the shingle of the beach at the
+fjord-head. They ran down the calm narrows, they breasted and they met the open
+sea. Then for days and days they drove under this master of theirs and high
+friend, having the wind for a sort of captain, and looking always out to the
+sea line to find what they could find. It was the springtime; and men feel the
+spring upon the sea even more surely than they feel it upon the land. They were
+men whose eyes, pale with the foam, watched for a landfall, that unmistakable
+good sight which the wind brings us to, the cloud that does not change and that
+comes after the long emptiness of sea days like a vision after the sameness of
+our common lives. To them the land they so discovered was wholly new.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We have no cause to regret the youth of the world, if indeed the world were
+ever young. When we imagine in our cities that the wind no longer calls us to
+such things, it is only our reading that blinds us, and the picture of satiety
+which our reading breeds is wholly false. Any man to-day may go out and take
+his pleasure with the wind upon the high seas. He also will make his landfalls
+to-day, or in a thousand years; and the sight is always the same, and the
+appetite for such discoveries is wholly satisfied even though he be only
+sailing, as I have sailed, over seas that he has known from childhood, and come
+upon an island far away, mapped and well known, and visited for the hundredth
+time.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap39">The Letter</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+If you ask me why it is now three weeks since I received your letter and why it
+is only today that I answer it, I must tell you the truth lest further things I
+may have to tell you should not be worthy of your dignity or of mine. It was
+because at first I dared not, then later I reasoned with myself, and so bred
+delay, and at last took refuge in more delay. I will offer no excuse: I will
+not tell you that I suffered illness, or that some accident of war had taken me
+away from this old house, or that I have but just returned from a journey to my
+hill and my view over the Plain and the great River.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Your messenger I have kept, and I have entertained him well. I looked at him a
+little narrowly at his first coming, thinking perhaps he might be a gentleman
+of yours, but I soon found that he was not such, and that he bore no disguise,
+but was a plain rider of your household. I put him in good quarters by the
+Hunting Stables. He has had nothing to do but to await my resolution, which is
+now at last taken, and which you receive in this.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But how shall I begin, or how express to you what not distance but a slow and
+bitter conclusion of the mind has done?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I shall not return to Meudon. I shall not see the woods, the summer woods
+turning to autumn, nor follow the hunt, nor take pleasure again in what is
+still the best of Europe at Versailles. And now that I have said it, you must
+read it so; for I am unalterably determined. Believe me, it is something much
+more deep than courtesy which compels me to give you my reasons for this final
+and irrevocable doom.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We were children together. Though we leant so lightly in our conversations of
+this spring upon all we knew in common, I know your age and all your strong
+early experience—and you know mine. Your mother will recall that day’s riding
+when I came back from my first leave and you were home, not, I think, for good,
+from the convent. A fixed domestic habit blinded her, so that she could then
+still see in us no more than two children; yet I was proud of my sword, and had
+it on, and you that day were proud of a beauty which could no longer be hidden
+even from yourself; I would then have sacrificed, and would now, all I had or
+was or had or am to have made that beauty immortal.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I say, you remember that day’s riding, and how after it the world was changed
+for you and me, and how that same evening the elders saw that it was changed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You will remember that for two years we were not allowed to meet again. When
+the two years were passed we met indeed by a mere accident of that rich and
+tedious life wherein we were both now engaged. I was returned from leave before
+Tournay; you had heard, I think, a false report that I had been wounded in the
+dreadful business at Fontenoy (which to remember even now horrifies me a
+little). I had heard and knew which of the great names you now bore by
+marriage. The next day it was your husband who rode with me to Marly. I liked
+him well enough. I have grown to like him better. He is an honest man, though I
+confess his philosophers weary me. When I say “an honest man” I am giving the
+highest praise I know.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My dear, that was sixteen years ago.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You may not even now understand, so engrossing is the toilsome and excited
+ritual of that rich world at Versailles, how blest you are: your children are
+growing round you: your daughters are beginning to reveal your own beauty, and
+your sons will show in these next years immediately before us that temper which
+in you was a spirit and a height of being, and in them, men, will show as plain
+courage. During that long space of years your house has remained well ordered
+(it was your husband’s doing). His great fortune and yours have jointly
+increased: if I may tell you so, it is a pleasure to all who understand fitness
+to know that this is so, and that your lineage and his will hold so great a
+place in the State.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As you review those sixteen years you may, if you will—I trust you will
+not—recall those occasions when I saw the woods of Meudon and mixed by chance
+with your world, and when we renewed the rides which had ended our childhood.
+As for me I have not to recall those things. They are, alas, myself, and beyond
+them there is nothing that I can call a memory or a being at all. Nevertheless,
+as I have told you, I shall not come to Meudon: I shall not hear again the
+delightful voices of those many friends (now in mid-life as am I) who are my
+equals at Versailles. I shall not see your face.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I did not take service with the Empire from any pique or folly, but from a
+necessity for adventure and for the refounding of my house. It might have
+chanced that I should marry: the land demanded an heir. My impoverishment
+weighed upon me like an ill deed, for all this belt of land is dependent upon
+the old house, which I can with such difficulty retain and from which I write
+to-day. I spent all those years in the service of the Empire (and even of
+Russia) from no uncertain temper and from no imaginary quarrel. It is so common
+or so necessary for men and women to misjudge each other that I believe you
+thought me wayward, or at least unstable. If you did so you did me a wrong.
+Those two good seasons when we met again, and this last of but a month ago,
+were not accidents or fitful recoveries. They were all I possessed in my life
+and all that will perish with me when I die.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But now, to tell you the very core of my decision, it is this: The years that
+pass carry with them an increasing weight at once sombre and majestic. There
+are things belonging to youth which habit continues strangely longer than the
+season to which they properly belong: if, when we discover them to be too
+prolonged as cling to their survival, why, then, we eat dust. So long as we
+possess the illusion and so long as the dearest things of youth maintain
+unchanged, in one chamber of our life at least, our twentieth year, so long all
+is well. But there is a cold river which we must pass in our advance towards
+nothingness and age. In the passage of that stream we change: and you and I
+have passed it. There is no more endurance in that young mood of ours than in
+any other human thing. One always wakes from it at last. One sees what it is.
+The soul sees and counts with hard eyes the price at which a continuance of
+such high dreams must be purchased, and the heart has a prevision of the evil
+that the happy cheat will work as maturity is reached by each of us, and as
+each of us fully takes on the burden of the world.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Therefore I must not return.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Foolishly and without thinking of real things, acting as though indeed that
+life of dream and of illusion were still possible to me, I yesterday cut with
+great care a rose, one from the many that have now grown almost wild upon the
+great wall overlooking the Danube. Then ... I could not but smile to myself
+when I remembered how by the time that rose should have reached you every petal
+would be wasted and fallen in the long week’s ride. There is a fixed term of
+life for roses also as for men. I do not cite this to you by way of parable. I
+have no heart for tricks of the pen to-night; but the two images came together,
+and you will understand. If I do not return, it is for the same reason that I
+could not send the rose.
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap40">The Regret</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Everybody knows, I suppose, that kind of landscape in which hills seem to lie
+in a regular manner, fold on fold, one range behind the other, until, at last,
+behind them all some higher and grander range dominates and frames the whole.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The infinite variety of light and air and accident of soil provide all men save
+those who live in the great plains with examples of this sort. The traveller in
+the dry air of California or of Spain, watching great distances from the
+heights, will recollect such landscapes all his life. They were the reward of
+his long ascents and the visions which attended his effort as he climbed up to
+the ridge of his horizon. Such a landscape does a man see from the Western
+edges of the Guadarrama, looking eastward and south toward the very distant
+hills that guard Toledo and the Gulf of the Tagus. Such a landscape does a man
+see at sunrise from the highest of the Cevennes looking right eastward to the
+dawn as it comes up in the pure and cold air beyond the Alps, and shows you the
+falling of the foothills to the Rhone. And by such a landscape is a man
+gladdened when upon the escarpments of the Tuolumne he turns back and looks
+westward over the plain towards the vast range.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The experience of such a sight is one peculiar in travel, or, for that matter,
+if a man is lucky enough to enjoy it at home, insistent and reiterated upon the
+mind of the home-dwelling man. Such a landscape, for instance, makes a man
+praise God if his house is upon the height of Mendip, and he can look over
+falling hills right over the Vale of Severn toward the ridge above ridge of the
+Welsh solemnities beyond, until the straight line and high of the Black
+Mountains ends his view.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is the character of these landscapes to suggest at once a vastness,
+diversity, and seclusion. When a man comes upon them unexpectedly he can forget
+the perpetual toil of men and imagine that those who dwell below in the near
+side before him are exempt from the necessities of this world. When such a
+landscape is part of a man’s dwelling-place, though he well knows that the
+painful life of men within those hills is the same hard business that it is
+throughout the world, yet his knowledge is modified and comforted by the
+permanent glory of the thing he sees.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The distant and high range that bounds his view makes a sort of veiling,
+cutting it off and guarding it from whatever may be beyond. The succession of
+lower ranges suggests secluded valleys, and the reiterated woods, distant and
+more distant, convey an impression of fertility more powerful than that of corn
+in harvest upon the lowlands.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Sometimes it is a whole province that is thus grasped by the eye, sometimes in
+the summer haze but a few miles; always this scenery inspires the onlooker with
+a sense of completion and of repose, and at the same time, I think, with
+worship and with awe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now one such group of valleys there was, hill above hill, forest above forest,
+and beyond it a great noble range, unwooded and high against heaven, guarding
+it, which I for my part knew when first I knew anything of this world. There is
+a high place under fir trees, a place of sand and bracken, in South England
+whence such a view was always present to eye in childhood and “There,” said I
+to myself (even in childhood) “a man should make his habitation.” In those
+valleys is the proper off-set for man.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And so there was.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a little place which had grown up as my county grows. The house throwing
+out arms and layers. One room was panelled in the oak of the seventeenth
+century—but that had been a novelty in its time, for the walls upon which the
+panels stood were of the late fifteenth, oak and brick intermingled. Another
+room was large and light built in the manner of one hundred and fifty years
+ago, which people call Georgian. It had been thrown out south (which is quite
+against our older custom, for our older houses looked east and west to take all
+the sun and to present a corner to the south-west and the storms. So they stand
+still). It had round it a solid cornice which the modern men of the towns would
+have called ugly, but there was ancestry in it. Then, further on this house had
+modern roominess stretching in one new wing after another; and it had a great
+steading and there was a copse and some six acres of land. Over a deep ravine
+looked the little town that was the mother of the place, and altogether it was
+enclosed, silent, and secure.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“The fish that misses the hook regrets the worm.” If this is not a Chinese
+proverb it ought to be. That little farm and steading and those six acres, that
+ravine, those trees, that aspect of the little mothering town; the wooded hills
+fold above fold, the noble range beyond, will not be mine.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For all I know, some man quite unacquainted with that land took them grumbling
+for a debt; or again, for all I know, they may have been bought by a blind man
+who could not see the hills, or by some man who, seeing them, perpetually
+regretted the flat marshes of the fens. One day, up high on Egdean Side, not
+thinking of such things, through a gap in the trees I saw again after so many
+years, set one behind the other, the forests wave upon wave, the summer heat,
+the high, bare range guarding all, and in the midst of that landscape, set like
+a toy, the little Sabine Farm.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then I said to it, “Continue. Go and serve whom you will, my little Sabine
+Farm. You were not mine because you would not be, and you are not mine at all
+to-day. You will regret it perhaps, and perhaps you will not. There was verse
+in you, perhaps, or prose, or—infinitely more!—contentment for a man (for all I
+know). But you refused. You lost your chance. Goodbye.” And with that I went on
+into the wood and beyond the gap, and saw the sight no more.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was ten years since I had seen it last. It may be ten years before I see it
+again, or it may be for ever. But as I went through the woods saying to myself:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You lost your chance, my little Sabine Farm, you lost your chance!” another
+part of me at once replied:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Ah! And so did <i>you</i>!”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then, by way of riposte, I answered in my mind:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Not at all, for the chance I never had, but what I lost was my desire.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“No, not your desire,” said the voice to me within, “but the fulfilment of it,
+in which you would have lost your desire.” And when that reply came I naturally
+turned as all men do on hearing such interior replies, to a general
+consideration of regret, and was prepared, if any honest publisher should have
+come whistling through that wood, with an offer proper to the occasion, namely,
+to produce no less than five volumes on the Nature of Regret, its mortal sting,
+its bitter-sweetness, its power to keep alive in man the pure passions of the
+soul, its hints at immortality, its memory of Heaven. But the wood was empty of
+publishers. The offer did not come. The moment was lost. The five volumes will
+hardly now be written. In place of them I offer poor this, which you may take
+or leave. But I beg leave before I end to cite certain words very nobly
+attached to that great inn “The Griffin,” which has its foundation set far off
+in another place, in the town of March, in the Fen Land:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“England my desire, what have you not refused?”
+</p>
+
+</div><!--end chapter-->
+
+<div class="chapter">
+
+<h2><a name="chap41">The End Of The World</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+One day I met a man who was sitting quite silent near Whitney, in the Thames
+Valley, in a very large, long, low inn that stands in those parts, or at least
+stood then, for whether it stands now or not depends upon the Fussyites, whose
+business it is to Fuss, and in their Fussing to disturb mankind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He had nothing to say for himself at all, and he looked not gloomy but sad. He
+was tall and thin, with high cheekbones. His face was the colour of leather
+that has been some time in the weather, and he despised us altogether: he would
+not say a word to us, until one of the company said, rising from his meat and
+drink: “Very well, there’s a thing we shall never know till the end of the
+world” (he was talking about some discussion or other which the young men had
+been holding together). “There’s a thing we shall never know till the end of
+the world—and about that nobody knows!”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“You will pardon me,” said the tall, thin, and elderly man with a face like
+leather that has been exposed to the weather, “I know about the End of the
+World, for I have been there.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This was so interesting that we all sat down again to listen.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I wasn’t talking of place, but of time,” murmured the young man whom the
+stranger had answered.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I cannot help that,” said the stranger decisively; “the End of the World is
+the End of the World, and whether you are talking of space or of time it does
+not matter, for when you have got to the end you have got to the end, as may be
+proved in several ways.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“How did you get to it?” said one of our companions.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“That is very simply answered,” said the elder man; “you get to it by walking
+straight in front of you.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Anyone could do that,” said the other.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Anyone could,” said the elder man, “but nobody does. I did.... When I was
+quite a boy in my father’s parsonage (for my father was a parson), having heard
+so much about the End of the World and seeing that people’s descriptions of it
+differed so much and that everybody was quite sure of his own, I used to take
+my father’s friends and guests aside privately, for I was afraid to take my
+father himself, and I used to ask them how they knew what the End of the World
+was really like, and whether they had seen it. Some laughed, others were
+silent, and others were angry; but no one gave me any information. At last I
+decided (and it was very wise of me) that the only way to find out a thing of
+that sort was to find it out for one’s self, and not to go by hearsay, so I
+determined to go straight on without stopping until I got to the End of the
+World.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Which way did you walk?” said yet another of my companions.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Young man,” said the stranger, with solemnity, “I walked westward toward the
+setting sun ... I walked and I walked and I walked, day after day and year
+after year. Whenever I came to the seacoast I would take work on board a
+ship—and remember it is always easy to get work if you will take the wages that
+are offered, and always difficult to get it if you will not. Well, then, I went
+in this way through all known lands and over all known seas, until at last I
+came to the shore of a sea beyond which (so the people told me who lived there)
+there was no further shore. ‘I cannot help that,’ said I; ‘I have not yet come
+to the End of the World, and it is common sense that such a lot of water must
+have something at the back of it to hold it up; besides which there is a strong
+wind blowing out of the gates of the west and from the sunset. Now that wind
+must rise somewhere, and I am going on to see where it rises.’ One of them was
+kind enough to lend me a boat with oars; I thanked him prettily, and then I set
+out to row toward the End of the World, taking with me two or three days’
+provisions.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“When I had rowed a long time I went asleep, and when I woke up next morning I
+rowed again all day until the second night I went to sleep. On the third day I
+rowed again: a little before sunset on the third day I saw before me high
+hills, all in peaks like a great saw. On the very highest of the peaks there
+were streaks of snow, and at about six o’clock in the afternoon I grounded my
+boat upon that gravelly shore and pulled it up upon the shingle, though it was
+evident either that the tide was high or that there was no tide in these silent
+places.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I offered up a prayer to the genius of the land, and tied the painter of the
+boat to two great stones, so that no wave reaching it might move it, and then I
+went on inland. When I had gone a little way I saw a signpost on which was
+written, ‘To the End of the World One Mile’ and there was a rough track along
+which it pointed. I went along this track. Everything was completely silent.
+There were no birds, there was no wind, there was nothing in the sky. But one
+thing I did notice, which was that the sun was much larger than it used to be,
+and that as I went along this last mile or so it seemed to get larger still—but
+that may have been my imagination, for I must tell you my imagination is pretty
+strong.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Well then, gentlemen, when I had gone a mile or so I saw another signpost, on
+which there was a large board marked ‘Danger,’ and a hundred yards beyond the
+track went between two great dark rocks—and there I was! The road had stopped
+short; it was broken off, jagged, just like a torn bit of paper ... and there
+was the End of the World.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“How do you mean?” said one of the younger men in an awed tone.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“What I say,” said the stranger decidedly. “I had come to the end; there was
+nothing beyond. You looked down over a precipice where there was moss and steep
+grass, and on the ledges trees far below, and then more precipice, and then—oh,
+miles below—a few more trees or so clinging to the steep, then more precipice,
+and then darkness; and far away before me was the whole expanse of sky; and in
+the midst of it I saw the broad red sun setting into the brume; it was not yet
+dark enough to see the stars, and there was no moon in the sky.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I assure you it was a very wonderful sight, and I was awed though I was not
+afraid. And how glad I was to find that the world had an edge to it, and that
+all that talk about its being round was nonsense!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“When the sun was set it grew dark, and I returned to find my boat; but I must
+have missed my way, for the track became broader and better, and at last I came
+to a gate of a human sort, with an initial on it, which showed that it had been
+put up by some landlord. It was an open gate, and after I had entered it I came
+upon a broad highway, beautifully metalled, and when I had gone along this for
+less than half a mile I came to this inn where I am now sitting. That was a
+week ago, and I have been here ever since. They took me in kindly enough, but
+they would not believe what I had to tell them about the End of the World. It
+is a great pity, gentlemen, for that wonderful sight is to be discovered
+somewhere hereabouts, and a mere accident of my losing my way in the darkness
+makes it difficult for me to find it by daylight.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Having said all this, the stranger was silent.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One of my companions whispered to me that the old man must be mad. The stranger
+overheard him, and said with a thin smile:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Oh, I know all about that; several have suggested it already; but it is no
+answer, for if I did not come from the End of the World, where did I come from?
+No one has seen me hereabouts during the last few days until I came to this
+inn. And all the first part of my journey I can very easily explain, for I have
+notes of it, and it lasted for years. It is only this last part which seems to
+me so difficult.... I tell you I lost my way, and when a man has lost his way
+at night he can never find it again in the daytime.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As he spoke he took a little piece of folded paper, rather dirty, out of his
+inner pocket, on which a rough sketch-map was drawn, and he began touching it
+with a stump of pencil that he held in his hand. His eyes seemed to grow dimmer
+as he did so, and he leaned his head upon his hand. “I think I have got hold of
+it, gentlemen,” he said.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We did not get up or go too near him, for we thought he might be dangerous.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“I think, gentlemen,” he repeated in a more mumbling and lower and less certain
+voice, “I think I have got hold of it. I go backwards again through the gate to
+the right, just as then I went to the left, and after that it cannot be very
+far, for I see those two rocks in front of me. Besides which,” he muttered less
+and less coherently, “I ought to have remembered of course those very high and
+silent hills with nothing living upon them....” And he added, half asleep, as
+his head dropped upon his hand, “It was westward.... I had forgotten that.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Having so spoken, he seemed to fall asleep altogether, and his head fell back
+upon the corner of the wainscoting behind the bench where he sat. He made no
+noise in breathing as he slept.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was the first time that any of us young men had come across this fairly
+common sight of a man who took things within for things without; some of us
+were frightened, and all of us wished to be rid of the place and to get away.
+As we went out we told the landlord nothing either of the old fellow’s vagaries
+or of his sleep, but we went out and reached the town of Whitney, and when we
+had stayed there a couple of hours or so we went out southward to the station
+and waited there for the train which should take us back to Oxford.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+While we were waiting there in the station two farmers were talking together.
+One said to the other:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Ar, if he’d paid them they wouldn’t have minded so much.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To which the other answered:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Ar, ’tisn’t only the paying: it’s always an awkward thing when a man dies in
+your house, specially if it’s licensed. My wife’s brother was caught that way.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then as they went on talking we found that they were talking of the man in the
+inn, who it seems had not slept very long, but was dead, and had died in that
+same room. It was a shocking thing to hear. The first farmer said to the second
+in the railway carriage when we had all got in:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Where’d he come from?”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The other, who was an old man, grinned and said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Where we all come from, I suppose, and where we all go to.” He touched his
+forehead with his hand. “He said he’d come from the End of the World.”
+</p>
+
+<p>
+“Ar,” said the other gloomily in answer, “like enough!” And after that they
+talked no more about the matter.
+</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p class="footnote">
+<a name="fn1"></a> <a href="#fnref1">[1]</a>
+The Rhododendrons on the great lawn are modern.
+</p>
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of First and Last, by H. Belloc
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
+other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
+the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
+www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
+to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
+
+Title: First and Last
+
+Author: H. Belloc
+
+Posting Date: February 2, 2015 [EBook #7352]
+Release Date: January, 2005
+First Posted: April 19, 2003
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST AND LAST ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Tonya Allen, Eric Eldred, Charles Franks, and
+the Online Distributed Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FIRST AND LAST
+
+BY
+
+H. BELLOC
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+ON WEIGHING ANCHOR
+
+THE REVEILLON
+
+ON CHEESES
+
+THE CAPTAIN OF INDUSTRY
+
+THE INVENTOR
+
+THE VIEWS OF ENGLAND
+
+THE LUNATIC
+
+THE INHERITANCE OF HUMOUR
+
+THE OLD GENTLEMAN'S OPINIONS
+
+ON HISTORICAL EVIDENCE
+
+THE ABSENCE OF THE PAST
+
+ST. PATRICK
+
+THE LOST THINGS
+
+ON THE READING OF HISTORY
+
+THE VICTORY
+
+REALITY
+
+ON THE DECLINE OF THE BOOK
+
+JOS MARIA DE HEREDIA
+
+NORMANDY AND THE NORMANS
+
+THE OLD THINGS
+
+THE BATTLE OF HASTINGS
+
+THE ROMAN ROADS IN PICARDY
+
+THE REWARD OF LETTERS
+
+THE EYE-OPENERS
+
+THE PUBLIC
+
+ON ENTRIES
+
+COMPANIONS OF TRAVEL
+
+ON THE SOURCES OF RIVERS
+
+ON ERROR
+
+THE GREAT SIGHT
+
+THE DECLINE OF A STATE
+
+ON PAST GREATNESS
+
+MR. THE DUKE: THE MAN OF MALPLAQUET
+
+THE GAME OF CARDS
+
+"KING LEAR"
+
+THE EXCURSION
+
+THE TIDE
+
+ON A GREAT WIND
+
+THE LETTER
+
+THE REGRET
+
+THE END OF THE WORLD
+
+
+
+
+FIRST AND LAST
+
+
+
+
+On Weighing Anchor
+
+
+Personally I should call it "Getting It up," but I have always seen it
+in print called "weighing anchor"--and if it is in print one must bow to
+it. It does weigh.
+
+There are many ways of doing it. The best, like all good things, has
+gone for ever, and this best way was for a thing called a capstan to
+have sticking out from it, movable, and fitted into its upper rim, other
+things called capstan--bars. These, men would push singing a song, while
+on the top of the capstan sat a man playing the fiddle, or the flute, or
+some other instrument of music. You and I have seen it in pictures. Our
+sons will say that they wish they had seen it in pictures. Our sons'
+sons will say it is all a lie and was never in anything but the
+pictures, and they will explain it by some myth or other.
+
+Another way is to take two turns of a rope round a donkey-engine, paying
+in and coiling while the engine clanks. And another way on smaller boats
+is a sort of jack arrangement by which you give little jerks to a
+ratchet and wheel, and at last It looses Its hold. Sometimes (in this
+last way) It will not loose Its hold at all.
+
+Then there is a way of which I proudly boast that it is the only way I
+know, which is to go forward and haul at the line until It comes--or
+does not come. If It does not come, you will not be so cowardly or so
+mean as to miss your tide for such a trifle. You will cut the line and
+tie a float on and pray Heaven that into whatever place you run, that
+place will have moorings ready and free.
+
+When a man weighs anchor in a little ship or a large one he does a jolly
+thing! He cuts himself off and he starts for freedom and for the chance
+of things. He pulls the jib a-weather, he leans to her slowly pulling
+round, he sees the wind getting into the mainsail, and he feels that she
+feels the helm. He has her on a slant of the wind, and he makes out
+between the harbour piers. I am supposing, for the sake of good luck,
+that it is not blowing bang down the harbour mouth, nor, for the matter
+of that, bang out of it. I am supposing, for the sake of good luck to
+this venture, that in weighing anchor you have the wind so that you can
+sail with it full and by, or freer still, right past the walls until you
+are well into the tide outside. You may tell me that you are so rich and
+your boat is so big that there have been times when you have anchored in
+the very open, and that all this does not apply to you. Why, then, your
+thoughts do not apply to me nor to the little boat I have in mind.
+
+In the weighing of anchor and the taking of adventure and of the sea
+there is an exact parallel to anything that any man can do in the
+beginning of any human thing, from his momentous setting out upon his
+life in early manhood to the least decision of his present passing day.
+It is a very proper emblem of a beginning. It may lead him to that kind
+of muddle and set-back which attaches only to beginnings, or it may get
+him fairly into the weather, and yet he may find, a little way outside,
+that he has to run for it, or to beat back to harbour. Or, more
+generously, it may lead him to a long and steady cruise in which he
+shall find profit and make distant rivers and continue to increase his
+log by one good landfall after another. But the whole point of weighing
+anchor is that he has chosen his weather and his tide, and that he is
+setting out. The thing is done.
+
+You will very commonly observe that, in land affairs, if good fortune
+follows a venture it is due to the marvellous excellence of its
+conductor, but if ill fortune, then to evil chance alone. Now, it is not
+so with the sea.
+
+The sea drives truth into a man like salt. A coward cannot long pretend
+to be brave at sea, nor a fool to be wise, nor a prig to be a good
+companion, and any venture connected with the sea is full of venture and
+can pretend to be nothing more. Nevertheless there is a certain pride in
+keeping a course through different weathers, in making the best of a
+tide, in using cats' paws in a dull race, and, generally, in knowing how
+to handle the thing you steer and to judge the water and the wind. Just
+because men have to tell the truth once they get into tide water, what
+little is due to themselves in their success thereon they are proud of
+and acknowledge.
+
+If your sailing venture goes well, sailing reader, take a just pride in
+it; there will be the less need for me to write, some few years hence,
+upon the art of picking up moorings, though I confess I would rather
+have written on that so far as the fun of writing was concerned. For
+picking up moorings is a far more tricky and amusing business than
+Getting It up. It differs with every conceivable circumstance of wind,
+and tide, and harbour, and rig, and freeboard, and light; and then there
+are so many stories to tell about it! As--how once a poor man picked up
+a rich man's moorings at Cowes and was visited by an aluminium boat, all
+splendid in the morning sun. Or again--how a stranger who had made
+Orford Haven (that very difficult place) on the very top of an
+equinoctial springtide, picked up a racing mark-buoy, taking it to be
+moorings, and dragged it with him all the way to Aldborough, and that
+right before the town of Orford, so making himself hateful to the Orford
+people.
+
+But I digress....
+
+
+
+
+The Reveillon
+
+
+There was in the regiment with which I served a man called Frocot,
+famous with his comrades because he had seen The Dead, for this
+experience, though common among the Scotch, is rare among the French, a
+sister nation. This man Frocot could neither write nor read, and was
+also the strongest man I ever knew. He was quite short and exceedingly
+broad, and he could break a penny with his hands, but this gift of
+strength, though young men value it so much, was thought little of
+compared with his perception of unseen things, for though the men, who
+were peasants, professed to laugh at it, and him, in their hearts they
+profoundly believed. It had been made clear to us that he could see and
+hear The Dead one night in January during a snowstorm, when he came in
+and woke me in barrack-room because he had heard the Loose Spur. Our
+spurs were not buckled on like the officers'; they were fixed into the
+heel of the boot, and if a nail loosened upon either side the spur
+dragged with an unmistakable noise. There was a sergeant who (for some
+reason) had one so loosened on the last night he had ever gone the
+rounds before his death, for in the morning as he came off guard he
+killed himself, and the story went about among the drivers that
+sometimes on stable guard in the thick of the night, when you watched
+all alone by the lantern (with your three comrades asleep in the straw
+of an empty stall), your blood would stop and your skin tauten at the
+sound of a loose spur dragging on the far side of the stable, in the
+dark. But though many had heard the story, and though some had pretended
+to find proof for it, I never knew a man to feel and know it except this
+man Frocot on that night. I remember him at the foot of my bed with his
+lantern waking me from the rooted sleep of bodily fatigue, standing
+there in his dark blue driver's coat and staring with terrible eyes. He
+had undoubtedly heard and seen, but whether of himself from within,
+imagining, or, as I rather believe, from without and influenced, it is
+impossible to say. He was rough and poor, and he came from the Forest of
+Ardennes.
+
+The reason I remember him and write of him at this season is not,
+however, this particular and dreadful visitation of his, but a folly or
+a vision that befell him at this time of the year, now seventeen years
+ago; for he had Christmas leave and was on his way from garrison to his
+native place, and he was walking the last miles of the wood. It was the
+night before Christmas. It was clear, and there was no wind, but the sky
+was overcast with level clouds and the evening was very dark. He started
+unfed since the first meal of the day; it was dark three hours before he
+was up into the high wood. He met no one during all these miles, and his
+body and his mind were lonely; he hoped to press on and be at his
+father's door before two in the morning or perhaps at one. The night was
+so still that he heard no noise in the high wood, not even the rustling
+of a leaf or a twig crackling, and no animal ran in the undergrowth. The
+moss of the ride was silent under his heavy tread, but now and then the
+steel of his side-arm clicked against a metal button of the great cloak
+he wore. This sharp sound made him so conscious of himself that he
+seemed to fill that forest with his own presence and to be all that was,
+there or elsewhere. He was in a mood of unreal and not holy things. The
+mood, remaining, changed its aspect, and now he was so far from alone
+that all the trunks around him and the glimmers of sky between bare
+boughs held each a spirit of its own, and with the powerful imagination
+of the unlearned he could have spoken and held communion with the trees;
+but it would have an evil communion, for he felt this mood of his take
+on a further phase as he went deeper and deeper still into these
+forests. He felt about him uneasily the sense of doom. He was in that
+exaltation of fancy or dream when faint appeals are half heard far off,
+but not by our human ears, and when whatever attempts to pierce the
+armour of our mortality appeals to us by wailing and by despairing
+sighs. It seemed to him that most unhappy things passed near him in the
+air, and that the wood about him was full of sobbing. Then, again, he
+felt his own mind within him begin to be occupied by doubtful troubles
+worse than these terrors, an anxious straining for ill news, for bitter
+and dreadful news, mixed with a confused certitude that such news had
+come indeed, disturbed and haunted him; and all the while about him in
+that stillness the rushing of unhappy spirits went like a secret storm.
+He was clouded with the mingled emotions of apprehension and of fatal
+mourning; he attempted to remember the expectations that had failed him,
+friends untrue, and the names of parents dead; but he was now the victim
+of this strange night and unable (whether from hunger or fatigue, or
+from that unique power of his to discern things beyond the world) to
+remember his life or his definite aims at all, or even his own name. He
+was mixed with the whole universe about him, and was suffering some loss
+so grievous that very soon the gait of his march and his whole being
+were informed by a large and final despair.
+
+It was in this great and universal mood (granted to him as a seer,
+though he was a common man) that he saw down the ride, but somewhat to
+one side of it in the heart of the high wood, a great light shining from
+a barn or shed that stood there in the undergrowth, and to this light,
+though his way naturally led him to it, he felt also impelled by an
+influence as strong as or stronger than the despair that had filled his
+soul and all the woods around. He went on therefore quickly, straining
+with his eyes, and when he came into the light that shone out from this
+he saw a more brilliant light within, and men of his own kind adoring;
+but the vision was confused, like light on light or like vapours moving
+over bright metals in a cauldron, and as he gazed his mind became still
+and the dread left him altogether. He said it was like shutting a
+gentleman's great oaken door against a driving storm.
+
+This is the story he told me weeks after as we rode together in the
+battery, for he hid it in his heart till the spring. As I say, I
+believed him.
+
+He was an unlearned man and a strong; he never worshipped. He was of
+that plain stuff and clay on which has worked since all recorded time
+the power of the Spirit.
+
+He said that when he left (as he did rapidly leave) that light, peace
+also left him, but that the haunting terror did not return. He found the
+clearing and his father's hut; fatigue and the common world indeed
+returned, but with them a permanent memory of things experienced.
+
+Every word I have written of him is true.
+
+
+
+
+On Cheeses
+
+
+If antiquity be the test of nobility, as many affirm and none deny
+(saving, indeed, that family which takes for its motto "Sola Virtus
+Nobilitas," which may mean that virtue is the only nobility, but which
+may also mean, mark you, that nobility is the only virtue--and anyhow
+denies that nobility is tested by the lapse of time), _if_, I say,
+antiquity be the only test of nobility, then cheese is a very noble
+thing.
+
+But wait a moment: there was a digression in that first paragraph which
+to the purist might seem of a complicated kind.
+
+Were I writing algebra (I wish I were) I could have analysed my thoughts
+by the use of square brackets, round brackets, twiddly brackets, and the
+rest, all properly set out in order so that a Common Fool could follow
+them.
+
+But no such luck! I may not write of algebra here; for there is a rule
+current in all newspapers that no man may write upon any matter save
+upon those in which he is more learned than all his human fellows that
+drag themselves so slowly daily forward to the grave.
+
+So I had to put the thing in the very common form of a digression, and
+very nearly to forget that great subject of cheese which I had put at
+the very head and title of this.
+
+Which reminds me: had I followed the rule set down by a London
+journalist the other day (and of the proprietor of his paper I will say
+nothing--though I might have put down the remark to his proprietor) I
+would have hesitated to write that first paragraph. I would have
+hesitated, did I say? Griffins' tails! Nay--Hippogriffs and other things
+of the night! I would not have dared to write it at all! For this
+journalist made a law and promulgated it, and the law was this: that no
+man should write that English which could not be understood if all the
+punctuation were left out. Punctuation, I take it, includes brackets,
+which the Lord of Printers knows are a very modern part of punctuation
+indeed.
+
+Now let the horripilised reader look up again at the first paragraph (it
+will do him no harm), and think how it would look all written out in
+fair uncials like the beautiful Gospels of St. Chad, which anyone may
+see for nothing in the cathedral of Lichfield, an English town famous
+for eight or nine different things: as Garrick, Doctor Johnson, and its
+two opposite inns. Come, read that first paragraph over now and see what
+you could make of it if it were written out in uncials--that is, not
+only without punctuation, but without any division between the words.
+Wow! As the philosopher said when he was asked to give a plain answer
+"Yes" or "No."
+
+And now to cheese. I have had quite enough of digressions and of
+follies. They are the happy youth of an article. They are the springtime
+of it. They are its riot. I am approaching the middle age of this
+article. Let us be solid upon the matter of cheese.
+
+I have premised its antiquity, which is of two sorts, as is that of a
+nobleman. First, the antiquity of its lineage; secondly, the antiquity
+of its self. For we all know that when we meet a nobleman we revere his
+nobility very much if he be himself old, and that this quality of age in
+him seems to marry itself in some mysterious way with the antiquity of
+his line.
+
+The lineage of cheese is demonstrably beyond all record. What did the
+faun in the beginning of time when a god surprised him or a mortal had
+the misfortune to come across him in the woods? It is well known that
+the faun offered either of them cheese. So he knew how to make it.
+
+There are certain bestial men, hangers-on of the Germans, who would
+contend that this would prove cheese to be acquired by the Aryan race
+(or what not) from the Dolichocephalics (or what not), and there are
+certain horrors who descend to imitate these barbarians--though
+themselves born in these glorious islands, which are so steep upon their
+western side. But I will not detain you upon these lest I should fall
+head foremost into another digression and forget that my article,
+already in its middle age, is now approaching grey hairs.
+
+At any rate, cheese is very old. It is beyond written language. Whether
+it is older than butter has been exhaustively discussed by several
+learned men, to whom I do not send you because the road towards them
+leads elsewhere. It is the universal opinion of all most accustomed to
+weigh evidence (and in these I very properly include not only such
+political hacks as are already upon the bench but sweepingly every
+single lawyer in Parliament, since any one of them may tomorrow be a
+judge) that milk is older than cheese, and that man had the use of milk
+before he cunningly devised the trick of squeezing it in a press and by
+sacrificing something of its sweetness endowed it with a sort of
+immortality.
+
+The story of all this has perished. Do not believe any man who professes
+to give it you. If he tells you some legend of a god who taught the
+Wheat-eating Race, the Ploughers, and the Lords to make cheese, tell him
+such tales are true symbols, but symbols only. If he tells you that
+cheese was an evolution and a development, oh! then!--bring up your
+guns! Open on the fellow and sweep his intolerable lack of intelligence
+from the earth. Ask him if he discovers reality to be a function of
+time, and Being to hide in clockwork. Keep him on the hop with ironical
+comments upon how it may be that environment can act upon Will, while
+Will can do nothing with environment--whose proper name is mud. Pester
+the provincial. Run him off the field.
+
+But about cheese. Its noble antiquity breeds in it a noble diffusion.
+
+This happy Christendom of ours (which is just now suffering from an
+indigestion and needs a doctor--but having also a complication of
+insomnia cannot recollect his name) has been multifarious
+incredibly--but in nothing more than in cheese!
+
+One cheese differs from another, and the difference is in sweeps, and in
+landscapes, and in provinces, and in countrysides, and in climates, and
+in principalities, and in realms, and in the nature of things. Cheese
+does most gloriously reflect the multitudinous effect of earthly things,
+which could not be multitudinous did they not proceed from one mind.
+
+Consider the cheese of Rocquefort: how hard it is in its little box.
+Consider the cheese of Camembert, which is hard also, and also lives in
+a little box, but must not be eaten until it is soft and yellow.
+Consider the cheese of Stilton, which is not made there, and of Cheddar,
+which is. Then there is your Parmesan, which idiots buy rancid in
+bottles, but which the wise grate daily for their use: you think it is
+hard from its birth? You are mistaken. It is the world that hardens the
+Parmesan. In its youth the Parmesan is very soft and easy, and is
+voraciously devoured.
+
+Then there is your cheese of Wensleydale, which is made in Wensleydale,
+and your little Swiss cheese, which is soft and creamy and eaten with
+sugar, and there is your Cheshire cheese and your little Cornish cheese,
+whose name escapes me, and your huge round cheese out of the Midlands,
+as big as a fort whose name I never heard. There is your toasted or
+Welsh cheese, and your cheese of Pont-l'evque, and your white cheese of
+Brie, which is a chalky sort of cheese. And there is your cheese of
+Neufchatel, and there is your Gorgonzola cheese, which is mottled all
+over like some marbles, or like that Mediterranean soap which is made of
+wood-ash and of olive oil. There is your Gloucester cheese called the
+Double Gloucester, and I have read in a book of Dunlop cheese, which is
+made in Ayrshire: they could tell you more about it in Kilmarnock. Then
+Suffolk makes a cheese, but does not give it any name; and talking of
+that reminds me how going to Le Quesnoy to pass the people there the
+time of day, and to see what was left of that famous but forgotten
+fortress, a young man there showed me a cheese, which he told me also
+had no name, but which was native to the town, and in the valley of Ste.
+Engrace, where is that great wood which shuts off all the world, they
+make their cheese of ewe's milk and sell it in Tardets, which is their
+only livelihood. They make a cheese in Port-Salut which is a very subtle
+cheese, and there is a cheese of Limburg, and I know not how many
+others, or rather I know them, but you have had enough: for a little
+cheese goes a long way. No man is a glutton on cheese.
+
+What other cheese has great holes in it like Gruyere, or what other is
+as round as a cannon-ball like that cheese called Dutch? which reminds
+me:--
+
+Talking of Dutch cheese. Do you not notice how the intimate mind of
+Europe is reflected in cheese? For in the centre of Europe, and where
+Europe is most active, I mean in Britain and in Gaul and in Northern
+Italy, and in the valley of the Rhine--nay, to some extent in Spain (in
+her Pyrenean valleys at least)--there flourishes a vast burgeoning of
+cheese, infinite in variety, one in goodness. But as Europe fades away
+under the African wound which Spain suffered or the Eastern barbarism of
+the Elbe, what happens to cheese? It becomes very flat and similar. You
+can quote six cheeses perhaps which the public power of Christendom has
+founded outside the limits of its ancient Empire--but not more than six.
+I will quote you 253 between the Ebro and the Grampians, between
+Brindisi and the Irish Channel.
+
+I do not write vainly. It is a profound thing.
+
+
+
+
+The Captain of Industry
+
+
+The heir of the merchant Mahmoud had not disappointed that great
+financier while he still lived, and when he died he had the satisfaction
+of seeing the young man, now twenty-five years of age, successfully
+conducting his numerous affairs, and increasing (fabulous as this may
+seem) the millions with which his uncle entrusted him.
+
+Shortly after Mahmoud's death the prosperity of the firm had already
+given rise to a new proverb, and men said: "Do you think I am
+Mahmoud's-Nephew?" when they were asked to lend money or in some other
+way to jeopardize a few coppers in the service of God or their
+neighbour.
+
+It was also a current expression, "He's rich as Mahmoud's-Nephew," when
+comrades would jest against some young fellow who was flusher than
+usual, and could afford a quart or even a gallon of wine for the
+company; while again the discontented and the oppressed would mutter
+between their teeth: "Heaven will take vengeance at last upon these
+Mahmoud's-Nephews!" In a word, "Mahmoud's-Nephew" came to mean
+throughout the whole Caliphate and wherever the True Believers spread
+their empire, an exceedingly wealthy man. But Mahmoud himself having
+been dead ten years and his heir the fortunate head of the establishment
+being now well over thirty years of age, there happened a very
+inexplicable and outrageous accident: he died--and after his death no
+instructions were discovered as to what should be done with this
+enormous capital, no will could be found, and it happened moreover to be
+a moment of great financial delicacy when the manager of each department
+in the business needed all the credit he could get.
+
+In such a quandary the Chief Organizer and confidential friend, Ahmed,
+upon whom the business already largely depended, and who was so
+circumstanced that he could draw almost at will upon the balances,
+imagined a most intelligent way of escaping from the difficulties that
+would arise when the death of the principal was known.
+
+He caused a quantity of hay, of straw, of dust and of other worthless
+materials to be stuffed into a figure of canvas; this he wrapped round
+with the usual clothes that Mahmoud's-Nephew had worn in the office, he
+shrouded the face with the hood which his chief had commonly worn during
+life, and having so dressed the lay figure and secretly buried the real
+body, he admitted upon the morning after the death those who first had
+business with his master.
+
+He met them at the door with smiles and bows, saying: "You know,
+gentlemen, that like most really successful men, my chief is as silent
+as his decisions are rapid; he will listen to what you have to say, and
+it will be a plain yes or no at the end of it."
+
+These gentlemen came with a proposal to sell to the firm for the sum of
+one million dinars a barren rock in the Indian Sea, which was not even
+theirs, and on which indeed not one of them had ever set eyes. Their
+claim to advance so original a proposal was that to their certain
+knowledge two thousand of the wealthiest citizens of their town were
+willing to buy the rock again at a profit from whoever should be its
+possessor during the next few weeks in the fond hope of selling it once
+again to provincials, clerics, widows, orphans, and in general the
+uninstructed and the credulous--among whom had been industriously spread
+the report that the rock in question consisted of one solid and flawless
+diamond.
+
+These gentlemen sitting round the table before the shrouded figure laid
+down their proposals, whereupon the manager briefly summed up what they
+had said, and having done so, replied: "Gentlemen, his lordship is a man
+of few words; but you will have your answer in a moment if you will be
+good enough to rise, as he is at this moment expecting a deputation from
+the Holy Men who are entreating him to provide the cost of a mosque in
+one of the suburbs."
+
+The proposers of the bargain rose, greatly awed and pleased by the
+silence and dignity of the financier who apparently remained for a
+moment discussing their proposals without gesture and in a tone too low
+for them to hear, while his manager bent over to listen.
+
+"It is ever so," said one of them, "you may ever know the greatest men
+by their silence."
+
+"You are right," said another, "he is not one to be easily deceived."
+
+The manager in a moment or two rejoined them at the door. "Gentlemen,"
+he said, smiling, "my chief has heard your arguments and has expressed
+his assent to your conditions."
+
+They went out, delighted at the success of their mission, and
+congratulated Ahmed upon the financier's genius.
+
+"He does not," said the manager, laughing in hearty agreement, "bestow
+himself as a present upon all and sundry. Nor is he often caught
+indulging in short bouts of sleep, nor are flies diabolically left to
+repose undisturbed upon his features--but you must excuse me, I hear the
+Holy Men," and indeed from the inner room came a noise of speechifying
+in that doleful sing-song which is associated in Bagdad with the
+practice of religion.
+
+The gentlemen who had thus had the luck to interview Mahmoud's-Nephew
+with such success in the matter of the Diamond Island, soon spread about
+the news, and confirmed their fellow-citizens in the certitude that a
+great financier is neither talkative nor vivacious. "Still waters run
+deep," they said, and all those to whom they said it nodded in a wise
+acquiescence. Nor had the Manager the least difficulty in receiving one
+set of customers after another and in negotiating within three weeks an
+infinite amount of business, all of which confirmed those who had the
+pleasure of an audience with the stuffed dummy that great fortunes were
+made and retained by reticence and a contempt for convivial weakness.
+
+At last the ingenious man of affairs, to whom the whole combination was
+due, was not a little disturbed to receive from the Caliph a note
+couched in the following terms:
+
+"The Commander of the Faithful and the Servant of the Merciful whose
+name be exalted, to the Nephew of Mahmoud:
+
+"My Lord:--
+
+"It has been the custom since the days of my grandfather (May his soul
+see God!) for the more wealthy of the Faithful to be called to my
+councils, and upon my summoning them thither it has not been unusual for
+them to present sums varying in magnitude but always proportionate to
+their total fortunes. My court will receive signal honour if you will
+present yourself after the morning prayer of the day after to-morrow. My
+treasurer will receive from you with gratitude and remembrance upon the
+previous day and not later than noon, the sum of one million dinars."
+
+Here, indeed, was a perplexity. The payment of the money was an easy
+matter and was duly accomplished; but how should the lay figure which
+did duty in such domestic scenes as the negotiation of loans, the
+bullying of debtors, the purchase of options, and the cheating of the
+innocent and the embarrassed, take his place in the Caliph's council and
+remain undiscovered? For great as was the reputation of Mahmoud's-Nephew
+for discretion and for golden silence, such as are proper to the
+accumulation of great wealth, there would seem a necessity in any
+political assembly to open the mouth from time to time, if only for the
+giving of a vote.
+
+But Ahmed, who had by this time accumulated into his own hands the
+millions formerly his master's, finally solved the problem. Judicious
+presents to the servants of the palace and the public criers made his
+way the easier, and on the summoning of the council Mahmoud's-Nephew,
+whose troublesome affection of the throat was now publicly discussed,
+was permitted to bring into the council-room his private secretary and
+manager.
+
+Moreover at the council, as at his private office, the continued
+taciturnity of the millionaire could not but impress the politicians as
+it had already impressed the financial world.
+
+"He does not waste his breath in tub-thumping," said one, looking
+reverently at the sealed figure.
+
+"No," another would reply, "they may ridicule our old-fashioned, honest,
+quiet Mohammedan country gentlemen, but for common sense I will back
+them against all the brilliant paradoxical young fellows of our day."
+
+"They say he is very kind at heart and lovable," a third would then add,
+upon which a fourth would bear his testimony thus:
+
+"Yes, and though he says nothing about it, his charitable gifts are
+enormous."
+
+By the second meeting of the council the lay figure had achieved a
+reputation of so high a sort that the Caliph himself insisted upon
+making him a domestic adviser, one of the three who perpetually
+associated with the Commander of the _Faithful_ and directed his
+policy. For the universal esteem in which the new councillor was held
+had affected that Prince very deeply.
+
+Here there arose a crux from which there could be no escape, as one of
+the three chief councillors, Mahmoud's-Nephew, must speak at last and
+deliver judgments!
+
+The Manager, first considering the whole business, and next adding up
+his private gains, which he had carefully laid out in estates of which
+the firm and its employs knew nothing, decided that he could afford to
+retire. What might happen to the general business after his withdrawal
+would not be his concern.
+
+He first gave out, therefore, that the millionaire was taken exceedingly
+ill, and that his life was despaired of: later, within a few hours, that
+he was dead.
+
+So far from attempting to allay the panic which ensued, Ahmed frankly
+admitted the worst.
+
+With cries of despair and a confident appeal to the justice of Heaven
+against such intrigues, the honest fellow permitted the whole of the
+vast business to be wound up in favour of newcomers, who had not
+forgotten to reward him, and soothing as best he could the ruined crowds
+of small investors who thronged round him for help and advice, he
+retired under an assumed name to his highly profitable estates, which
+were situated in the most distant provinces of the known world.
+
+As for Mahmoud's-Nephew, three theories arose about him which are still
+disputed to this day:
+
+The first was that his magnificent brain with its equitable judgment and
+its power of strict secrecy, had designed plans too far advanced for his
+time, and that his bankruptcy was due to excess of wisdom.
+
+The second theory would have it that by "going into politics" (as the
+phrase runs in Bagdad) he had dissipated his energies, neglected his
+business, and that the inevitable consequences had followed.
+
+The third theory was far more reasonable. Mahmoud's-Nephew, according to
+this, had towards the end of his life lost judgment; his garrulous
+indecision within the last few days before his death was notorious: in
+the Caliph's council, as those who should best know were sure, one could
+hardly get a word in edgewise for his bombastic self-assurance; while in
+matters of business, to conduct a bargain with him was more like
+attending a public meeting than the prosecution of negotiations with a
+respectable banker.
+
+In a word, it was generally agreed that Mahmoud's-Nephew's success had
+been bound up with his splendid silence, his fall, bankruptcy, and
+death, with a lesion of the brain which had disturbed this miracle of
+self-control.
+
+
+
+
+The Inventor
+
+
+I had a day free between two lectures in the south-west of England, and
+I spent it stopping at a town in which there was a large and very
+comfortable old posting-house or coaching-inn. I had meant to stay some
+few hours there and to take the last train out in the evening, and I had
+meant to spend those hours alone and resting; but this was not permitted
+me, for just as I had taken up the local paper, which was a humble,
+reasonable thing, empty of any passion and violence and very reposeful
+to read, a man came up and touched my left elbow sharply: a gesture not
+at all to my taste nor, I think, to that of anyone who is trying to read
+his paper.
+
+I looked up and saw a man who must have been quite sixty years of age.
+He had on a soft, felt slouch hat, a very old and greenish black coat;
+he stooped and shuffled; he was clean-shaven, with long grey hair, and
+his eyes were astonishingly bright and piercing and set close together.
+
+He said, "I beg your pardon."
+
+I said, "Eh, what?"
+
+He said again "I beg your pardon" in the tones of a man who almost
+commands, and having said this he put his hat on the table, dragged a
+chair quite close to mine, and pulled a folded bunch of foolscap sheets
+out of his pocket. His manner was that of a man who engages your
+attention and has a right to engage it. There were no preliminaries and
+there was no introduction. This was apparently his manner, and I
+submitted.
+
+"I have here," he said, fixing me with his intense eyes, "the plans for
+a speedometer."
+
+"Oh!" said I.
+
+"You know what a speedometer is?" he asked suspiciously.
+
+I said yes. I said it was a machine for measuring the speed of vehicles,
+and that it was compounded of two (or more) Greek words.
+
+He nodded; he was pleased that I knew so much, and could therefore
+listen to his tale and understand it. He pulled his grey baggy trousers
+up over the knee, settled himself, sitting forward, and opened his
+document. He cleared his throat, still fixing me with those eyes of his,
+and said--
+
+"Every speedometer up to now has depended upon the same principle as a
+Watt's governor; that is, there are two little balls attached to each by
+a limb to a central shaft: they rise and fall according to their speed
+of rotation, and this movement is indicated upon a dial."
+
+I nodded.
+
+He cleared his throat again. "Of course, that is unsatisfactory."
+
+"Damnably!" said I, but this reply did not check him.
+
+"It works tolerably well at high speeds; at low speeds it is useless;
+and then again there is a very rapid fluctuation, and the instrument is
+of only approximate precision."
+
+"Not it!" said I to encourage him.
+
+"There is one exception," he continued, "to this principle, and that is
+a speedometer which depends upon the introduction of resistance into a
+current generated by a small magneto. The faster the magneto turns the
+stronger the current generated, and the change is indicated upon a
+dial."
+
+"Yes," said I sadly, "as in the former case so in this; the change of
+speed is indicated upon a dial." And I sighed.
+
+"But this method also," he went on tenaciously, "has its defects."
+
+"You may lay to that," I interrupted.
+
+"It has the defect that at high speeds its readings are not quite
+correct, and at very low speeds still less so. Moreover, it is said that
+it slightly deteriorates with the passage of time."
+
+"Now that," I broke in emphatically, "is a defect I have discovered
+in----"
+
+But he put up his hand to stop me. "It slightly deteriorates, I say,
+with the passage of time." He paused a moment impressively. "No one has
+hitherto discovered any system which will accurately record the speed of
+a vehicle or of any rotary movement and register it at the lowest as at
+the highest speeds." He paused again for a still longer period in order
+to give still greater emphasis to what he had to say. He concluded in a
+new note of sober triumph: "I have solved the problem!"
+
+I thought this was the end of him, and I got up and beamed a
+congratulation at him and asked if he would drink anything, but he only
+said, "Please sit down again and I will explain."
+
+There is no way of combating this sort of thing, and so I sat down, and
+he went on:
+
+"It is perfectly simple...." He passed his hand over his forehead. "It
+is so simple that one would say it must have been thought of before; but
+that is what is always said of a great invention.... Now I have here"
+(and he opened out his foolscap) "the full details. But I will not read
+them to you; I will summarize them briefly."
+
+"Have you a plan or anything I could watch?" said I a little anxiously.
+
+"No," he answered sharply, "I have not, but if you like I will draw a
+rough sketch as I go along upon the margin of your newspaper."
+
+"Thank you," I said.
+
+He drew the newspaper towards him and put it on his knee. He pulled out
+a pencil; he held the foolscap up before his eye, and he began to
+describe.
+
+"The general principle upon which my speedometer reposes," he said
+solemnly, "is the coordination of the cylinder and the cone upon an
+angle which will have to be determined in practice, and will probably
+vary for different types. But it will never fall below 15 nor rise over
+43."
+
+"I should have thought----" I began, but he told me I could not yet have
+grasped it, and that he wished to be more explicit.
+
+"On a king bolt," he said, occasionally consulting his notes, "runs a
+pivot in bevel which is kept in place by a small hair-spring, which
+spring fits loosely on the Conkling Shaft."
+
+"Exactly," said I, "I see what is coming."
+
+But he wouldn't let me off so easily.
+
+"Yes, of course you are going to say that the whole will be keyed
+together, and that the T-pattern nuts on a movable shank will be my
+method of attachment to the fixed portion next to the cam? Eh? So it is,
+but" (and here his eye brightened), "_anyone_ could have arranged
+that. My particularity is that I have a freedom of movement even at the
+lowest speeds, and an accuracy of notation even at the highest, which is
+secured in a wholly novel manner ... and yet so simply. What do you
+think it is?"
+
+I affected to look puzzled, and thought for a moment. "I cannot
+imagine," said I, "unless----"
+
+"No," he interrupted, "do not try to guess it, for you never will. _I
+turn the flange inward_ on a Wilkinson lathe and give it a parabolic
+section so that the axes are always parallel to each other and to the
+shaft.... There!"
+
+I had no idea the man could be so moved: there was jubilation in his
+voice.
+
+"There!" he said again, as though some effort of the brain had exhausted
+him. "It can't be touched, mind you," he added suspiciously; "I've taken
+out the provisional patents. There's one man I know wants to fight it in
+the courts as an infringement on Wilkinson's own patent, but it can't be
+touched!" He shook his head decisively. "No! my lawyer's certain of
+that--and so'm I!"
+
+Here there was a break in his communications, so to speak, and he had
+apparently run out. It was not for me to wind him up again. I watched
+him with a sombre relief as he stood up again to full height, leaned his
+head back, and sighed profoundly with satisfaction and with completion.
+He folded up his specification and put it in his pocket again. He tore
+off the incomprehensible sketch he had made with his pencil while he was
+speaking, and put it by me on the mantelshelf. "You might like to keep
+it," he said pathetically; "it's a document, that is; it will be famous
+some day." He looked at it lovingly, almost as though he was going to
+take it back again: but he thought better of it.
+
+I was waiting, I will not say itching, for him to take his leave, when a
+god or demon, that same perhaps which had treated the poor fellow as a
+jest for a whole lifetime, inspired him to take a very false step
+indeed. He had already taken up his hat and was turning as though to go
+to the door, when the unfortunate thought struck him.
+
+"What would you do?" he said.
+
+"How do you mean?" I answered.
+
+"Why, what would you do to try and get it taken up and talked about?"
+
+Then it was my turn, and I let him have it.
+
+"You must get the Press and the Government to work together," I said
+rapidly, "and particularly in connection with the new Government Service
+of Camion's Fettle-Trains and Cursory Circuits."
+
+He nodded like one who thoroughly understands and desires to hear more.
+
+"Speed," I added nonchalantly, "and the measure of it are of course
+essentials in their case."
+
+He nodded again.
+
+"And they have never really settled the problem ... especially about
+Fettle-Trains."
+
+"No," said he ponderously, "so I understand."
+
+
+"Well now," I went on, full of the chase, "you will naturally ask me who
+are you to go to?" I scratched my nose. "You know the Fusionary Office,
+as we call it? It is really, of course, a part of the Stannaries. But
+the Chief Permanent Secretary likes to have it called the Fusionary
+Office; it's his vanity."
+
+"Yes," said he eagerly, "yes, go on!"
+
+"They always have the same hours," I said, "four to eleven."
+
+"Four to _what_?" he asked, looking up.
+
+"To eleven," I repeated sharply; "but you'd much better call round about
+three."
+
+He looked bewildered.
+
+"Don't interrupt," I said, seeing him open his lips, "or I shall lose
+the thread. It's rather complicated. You call at three by the little
+door in Whitehall on the Embankment side towards the Horse Guards
+looking south, and _don't_ ring the bell."
+
+"Why not?" he asked. I thought for the moment he might begin to cry.
+
+"Oh, well," I said testily, "you mustn't ask those questions. All these
+institutions are very old institutions with habits and prejudices of
+their own. You mustn't ring the bell, that's all; they don't like it;
+you must just wait until they open; and then, if you take _my_
+advice, don't write a note or ask to interview the First Analyist. Don't
+do any of the usual things, but just fill up one of the regular Treasury
+forms and state that you have come with regard to the Perception and
+Mensuration advertisements."
+
+His face was pained and wrinkled as he heard me, but he said, "I beg
+your pardon ... but shall I have it all explained to me at the office?"
+
+"Certainly not!" I said, aghast; "it's just because you might have so
+much difficulty there that I'm explaining everything to you."
+
+"Yes, I know," he said doubtfully; "thank you."
+
+"I hope you'll try and follow what I say," I continued a little wearily;
+"I have special opportunities for knowing.... Political, you know."
+
+"Certainly," he said, "certainly; but about those forms?"
+
+"Well," I said, "you didn't suppose they supplied them, did you?"
+
+"I almost did," he ventured.
+
+"Oh, you did," said I, with a loud laugh, "well, you're wrong there.
+However, I dare say I've got one on me." He looked up eagerly as I felt
+in my pockets. I brought out a telegraph blank, two letters, and a
+tobacco pouch. I looked at them for a moment. "No," said I, "I haven't
+got one; it's a pity, but I'll tell you who will give you one; you know
+the place opposite, where the bills are drafted?"
+
+"I'm afraid I don't," he said, admitting ignorance for the first time in
+this conversation and perhaps in his life.
+
+"Well," said I impatiently, "never mind, anyone will show you. Go there,
+and if they don't give you a form they'll show you a copy of Paper B,
+which is much the same thing."
+
+"Thank you," said he humbly, and he got up to move out. He was going a
+little groggily, his eyes were dull and sodden. He presented all the
+aspect of a man under a heavy strain.
+
+"You've got it all clear, I hope?" I asked cheerfully as he neared the
+door.
+
+"Oh, yes!" he said. "Thank you; yes!"
+
+"Anything else?" I shouted as he passed out into the courtyard.
+"Anything else I can do? You'll always find me in the room over the
+office, Room H, down the little iron staircase," I nodded genially to
+him as he disappeared.
+
+In this way did we exchange, the Inventor and I, those expert
+confidences and mutual aids in either's technical skill which are too
+rarely discovered in modern travel.
+
+
+
+
+The Views of England
+
+
+England is a country with edges and with a core. It is a country very
+small for the number of people who live in it, and very appreciable to
+the eye for the traveller who travels on foot or in a boat from place to
+place. Considering the part it has in the making of the world, it might
+justly be compared to a jewel which is very small and very valuable and
+can almost be held in the hand. The physical appreciation of England is
+to be reached by an appreciation of landscape.
+
+It so happens that England is traversed by remarkable and sudden ranges;
+hills with a sharp escarpment overlooking great undulating plains. This
+is not true of any other one country of Europe, but it is true of
+England, and a man who professes to consider, to understand, to
+criticize, to defend, and to love this country, must know the Pennines,
+the Cotswolds, the North and the South Downs, the Chilterns, the
+Mendips, and the Malverns; he must know Delamere Forest, and he must
+know the Hill of Beeston, from which all Cheshire may be perceived. If
+he knows these heights and has long considered the prospects which they
+afford, he can claim to have seen the face of England.
+
+It is deplorable that our modern method of travel does cut us off from
+such experiences. They were not only common to, they were necessary to
+our fathers; the roads would not be at the expense of tunnelling through
+hills, and (what is more important) when those men who most mould the
+knowledge of the country by the country (the people who deal with its
+soil, who live separate upon its separate farms) visited each other upon
+horses; and horses, unlike railway trains, cannot climb hills. They
+puff, they heave, they snort, as do railway trains, but they climb them
+well.
+
+On this account, because the roads for the carriages went over hills,
+and because the method of visiting even a near neighbour would permit
+you to go over hills, the England of quite a little time ago was
+familiar with the half-dozen great landscapes of England. You may see it
+in that most individual, that most peculiar, and, I think, that most
+glorious school of painters, the English landscape painter, Constable
+with his thick colours, Turner with his wonderment, and even the
+portrait painters in their backgrounds depend upon the view of the
+plains from a height. To-day our landscape painters sometimes do the
+same, but the market for that emotion is capricious, it is no longer the
+secure and natural way of presenting England to English eyes.
+
+If you will consider these plains at the foot of the English hills you
+will find in them the whole history of the country, and the whole
+meaning of it as well. Two occur to me first: The view of the Weald
+(both Kentish and Sussex) through which the influence of Europe
+perpetually approached the island, not only in the crisis of the Roman
+or the Norman invasions, but in a hundred episodes stretched out through
+two thousand years--and the view of the Thames Valley as one gets it on
+a clear day from the summits of the North Downs when one looks northward
+and sees very faintly the Chilterns along the horizon.
+
+This last is obscured by London. One needs a very particular
+circumstance in which to appreciate it. The air must be dry and clear,
+there must be little or no wind, or if there is a wind it must be a
+strong one from the south and west that has already driven the smoke
+from the western edge of the town. When this is so, a man looks right
+across to the sandy heights just north of the Thames, and far beyond he
+sees the Chilterns, like a landfall upon the rim of the world. He looks
+at all that soil on which the government of this country has been
+rooted. He sees the hill of Windsor. He overlooks, though he cannot
+perceive at so great a distance, the two great schools of the rich; he
+has within one view the principal Castle of the Kings, the place of
+their council, and the cathedral of their capital city: so true is it
+that the Thames made England.
+
+Then, if you consider the upper half of that valley, the view is from
+the ridge of the Berkshire hills, or, better still, from Cumnor, or from
+the clump of trees above Faringdon. From such look-outs the astonishing
+loneliness which England has had the strength to preserve in this
+historic belt of land profoundly strikes a man. You can see to your left
+and, a long way off, the hill where, as is most probable, Alfred thrust
+back the Pagans, and so saved one-half of Christendom. Oxford is within
+your landscape. The roll upwards in a glacis of the Cotswold, the nodal
+point of the Roman roads at Cirencester, and the ancient crossings of
+the Thames.
+
+From the Cotswold again westward you look over a sheer wall and see one
+of those differences which make up England. For the passage from the
+Upper Thames to the flat and luxuriant valley floor of the Severn is a
+transition (if it be made by crossing the hills) more sudden than that
+between many countries abroad. Had our feudalism cut England into
+provinces we should here have two marked provincial histories marching
+together, for the natural contrast is greater than between Normandy and
+Brittany at any part of their march or between Aragon and Castile at any
+part of theirs. I do not know what it is, but the view of the jagged
+Malvern seen above the happy mists of autumn, when these mists lie like
+a warm fleece upon the orchards of the vale, preserving them of a
+morning until the strengthening of the sun, the sudden aspect, I say, of
+those jagged peaks strikes one like a vision of a new world. How many
+men have thought it! How often it ought to be written down! It hangs in
+the memory of the traveller like a permanent benediction, and remains in
+his mind a standing symbol of peace.
+
+I have no space to speak of how from Beeston you see all Cheshire; the
+Vale Royal to your left, and the main plain of the county to your right.
+The whole stretch is framed in with definite hills, the last and highly
+marked line of the Pennines bounds the view upon the east; upon the west
+the first of the Welsh hills stands sharply in a long even line against
+the fading sun; and on the north you see the height of Delamere. There
+are three other views in the North of England, the first easy, the last
+two difficult to obtain, all between them making up a true picture of
+what the North of England is. The first (and it is very famous) is the
+view over the industrial ferment of South Lancashire, seen from the
+complete silence of the hills round the Peak. No matter where you cross
+that summit, even if you take the high road from the Snake Inn to
+Glossop, where the easiest, and therefore the least striking, passage
+has been chosen, much more if you follow the wild heights a little to
+the south until you come to a more abrupt descent on which there are not
+even paths, there comes a point where there is presented to you in one
+great offering, without introduction, a vision of the vast energies of
+England.
+
+I remember once in winter when the sun sets early (it was December, and
+seven years ago) coming upon this sight. The clouds were so arranged
+after an Atlantic storm that all the heaven (which here is always
+spacious and noble) was covered with a rolling curtain as though a man
+had pulled it with his hands. But far off, westward, there was a broad
+red band of sunset, and against this the smoke, the tall stacks, the
+violence and the wealth of that cauldron. One could almost hear the
+noise. It did arrest one; it was as though someone had painted something
+unreal, to be a mystical emblem, and to sum up in one picture all those
+million despairs, misfortunes, chances, disciplines, and acquirements
+which make up the character of Lancashire men. This vision also many men
+have seen and many men shall write of. Very rarely upon the surface of
+the earth does the soul take on so immediate and obvious a physical body
+as does the soul of that industrial world in the view of which I speak.
+
+And the two other views are, first, that difficult one which one must
+pick and choose but which can be obtained from several sites (especially
+at the end of Wensleydale), and which is the view of that rich, old, and
+agricultural Yorkshire, from which the county draws its traditions and
+in which, perhaps, the truest spirit of the county still abides; for
+Yorkshire is at heart farmer, and possibly after three generations of a
+town, a man from this part of England still looks more lively when he
+sees a lively horse put before him for judgment. Second, the view from
+Cross Fell, very, very difficult to obtain, for often when one climbs
+Cross Fell in sunny weather, one gets up over the Scar under the threat
+of cloud, and one only reaches the summit by the time the evening or the
+mist has fallen; but if one has the luck to see the view of which I
+speak, then one sees all that rugged remaining part of the Northwest
+exactly as the Romans saw it, and as it has been for two thousand years,
+with the high land of the lakes and the stony nature and the sparseness
+of all the stretch about one, and the approach to a foreign land.
+
+I have often thought when I have heard men blaming the story of England
+or her present mood for false reasons, or, what is worse, praising her
+for false reasons; when I have heard the men of the cities talking wild
+talk got from maps and from print, or the disappointed men talking wild
+talk of another kind, expecting impossible or foreign perfections from
+their own kindred--I have often thought, I say, when I have heard the
+folly upon either side (and the mass of it daily increases)--that it
+would be a wholesome thing if one could take such a talker and make him
+walk from Dover to the Solway, exercising some care that he should rise
+before the sun, and that he should see in clear weather the views of
+which I speak. A man who has done that has seen England--not the name or
+the map or the rhetorical catchword, but the thing. And it does not take
+so very long.
+
+
+
+
+The Lunatic
+
+
+Those who are interested in what simple straightforward people call the
+Pathology of Consciousness have gathered a great body of evidence upon
+the various manias that affect men, and there is an especially
+interesting department of this which concerns illusion upon matters
+which in the sane are determinable by the senses and common experience.
+Thus one man will believe himself to be the Emperor of China, another to
+be William Shakespeare or some other impossible person, though one would
+imagine that his every accident of daily life would convince him to the
+contrary.
+
+I had recently occasion to watch one of the most harmless and yet one of
+the most striking of these illusions in a private asylum which has
+specialized, if I may so express myself, upon men of letters. The case
+was harmless and even benign, for the poor fellow was not of a combative
+disposition to begin with, was of too careful and dignified a
+temperament to show more than slight irritation if his delusion were
+contradicted. This misfortune, however, very rarely overtook him, for
+those who came to visit him were warned to humour his whim. This
+eccentricity I will now describe.
+
+He imagined, nay he was convinced, that he was existing fifty years in
+the future, and that the interest of his conversation for others would
+lie in his reminiscence of the state of society in which we are actually
+living today. If anyone who had not been warned was imprudent enough to
+suggest that the conversation was taking place in 1909 would smile
+gently, nod, and say rather bitterly, "Yes, I know, I know," as though
+recognizing a universal plot against him which he was too weary to
+combat. But when he had said this he would continue to talk on as though
+both parties to the conversation were equally convinced that the year
+was really 1960 or thereabouts. Whether to add zest to what he said or
+from some part of his malady consonant with all the rest, my poor friend
+(who had been a journalist and will very possibly be a journalist again)
+presupposed that the whole structure of society as we now know it had
+changed and that his reminiscences were those of a past time which, on
+account of some great revolution or other, men imperfectly comprehended,
+so that it must be of the highest interest and advantage to listen to
+the testimony of an eye-witness upon them.
+
+What especially delighted him (for he was a zealous admirer of the
+society he described) was the method of government.
+
+"There was no possibility of going wrong," he said to me with curious
+zeal, "not a shadow of danger! It would be difficult for you to
+understand now how easily the system worked!" And here he sighed
+profoundly. "And why on earth," he continued, "men should have destroyed
+such an instrument when they had it is more than I can understand. There
+it was in every country in Europe; there were elections; all the men
+voted. And mind you, the elections were not so very far apart. Most
+people living at one election could remember the last, so there was no
+time for abuses to spring up.... Well, everybody voted. If a man wanted
+one thing he voted one way, and if he wanted another thing he voted the
+other way. The people for whom he voted would then meet, and with a
+sense of duty which I cannot exaggerate they would work month after
+month exactly to reproduce the will of those who had appointed them. It
+was a great time!"
+
+"Yet," said I, "even so there must have been occasional divergences
+between what these people did and what the nation wanted."
+
+"I see what you mean," he said, musing, "you mean that all the devotion
+in the world, the purest of motives and the most devoted sense of duty,
+could not keep the elected always in contact with the electors. You are
+right. But you must remember that in every country there was a
+machinery, with regard to the most important measures at least, which
+could throw the matter before the electors to be re-decided. I can
+remember no important occasion upon which the machinery was not brought
+into use."
+
+"But, after all, the value of the decisions of the electorate you are
+describing," said I, continuing to humour him, "would depend upon the
+information which the electorate had received as well as upon their
+judgment."
+
+"As for their judgment," he said, a little shortly, "it is not for our
+time to criticize theirs. Human judgment is not infallible, but I can
+well remember how in every nation of Europe it was the fixed conviction
+of the citizens that judgment was their chief characteristic, and
+especially judgment in national affairs. I cannot believe that so
+universal an attitude of the mind could have arisen had it not been
+justified. But as for information, they had the Press ... a free Press!"
+Here he fell into a reverie, so powerfully did his supposed memories
+affect him.
+
+I was willing to lead him on, because this kind of illness is best met
+by sympathy, and also because I was not uninterested to discover how his
+own trade had affected him.
+
+"You would hardly understand it," he said sadly; "what you hear from me
+is nothing but words.... I wish I could have shown you one of those
+great houses with information pouring in as rapid, as light, and as
+clear, from every hidden corner of the world, digested by master brains
+into the most lucid and terse presentment of it possible, and then
+whirled out on great wheels to be distributed by the thousand and the
+hundred thousand, to the hungry intelligence of Europe. There was
+nothing escaped it--nothing. In every capital were crowds of men
+dispatched from the other capitals of our civilization, moving with ease
+in the wealthiest houses, and exquisitely in touch with the most
+delicate phases of national life everywhere. And these men were such
+experts in selection that a picture of Europe as a whole was presented
+every morning to each particular part of Europe; and nowhere was this
+more successfully accomplished than in my own beloved town of London."
+
+"It must have been useful," I said, "not only for the political purposes
+you describe, but also for investors. Indeed, I should imagine that the
+two things ran together."
+
+"You are right," he said with interest, "the wide knowledge which even
+the poorest of the people possessed upon foreign affairs, through the
+action of the Press, was, further, of the utmost and most beneficent
+effect in teaching even the smallest proprietor what he need do with his
+capital. A discovery of metallic ore--especially of gold--a new
+invention, anything which might require development, was at once
+presented in its most exact aspect to the reader."
+
+"It was probably upon that account," said I, "that property was so
+equally distributed, and that so general a prosperity reigned as you
+have often described to me."
+
+"You are right," said he; "it was mainly this accurate and universal
+daily information which produced such excellent results."
+
+"But it occurs to me," said I, by way of stimulating his conversation
+with an objection, "that if so passionate and tenacious a habit of
+telling the exact truth upon innumerable things was present in this old
+institution of which you speak, it cannot but have bred a certain amount
+of dissension, and it must sometimes even have done definite harm to
+individuals whose private actions were thus exposed."
+
+"You are right," said he; "the danger of such misfortunes was always
+present, and with the greatest desire in the world to support only what
+was worthy the writers of the journals of which I speak would
+occasionally blunder against private interests; but there was a remedy."
+
+"What was that?" I asked.
+
+"Why, the law provided that in this matter twelve men called a jury,
+instructed by a judge, after the matter had been fully explained to them
+by two other men whose business it was to examine the truth boldly for
+the sake of justice--I say the law provided that the twelve men after
+this process should decide whether the person injured should receive
+money from the newspaper or no, and if so, in what amount. And, lest
+there should still be any manner of doubt, the judge was permitted to
+set aside their verdict if he thought it unjust. To secure his absolute
+impartiality as between rich and poor he was paid somewhat over 100 a
+week, a large salary in those days, and he was further granted the right
+of imprisoning people at will or of taking away their property if he
+believed them to obstruct his judgment. Nor were these the only
+safeguards. For in the case of very rich men, to whom justice might not
+be done on account of the natural envy of their poorer fellow-citizens,
+it was arranged that the jury should consist only of rich men. In this
+way it was absolutely certain that a complete impartiality would reign.
+We shall never see those days again," he concluded.
+
+"But do you not think," I said before I left him, "that the social
+perfection of the kind you have described must rather have been due to
+some spirit of the time than to particular institutions? For after all
+the zealous love of justice and the sense of duty which you describe are
+not social elements to be produced by laws."
+
+"Possibly," he said, wearily, "possibly, but we shall never see it
+again!"
+
+And I left him looking into the fire with infinite sadness and
+reflecting upon his lost youth and the year 1909: a pathetic figure, and
+one whose upkeep during the period of his deficiency was a very serious
+drain upon the resources of his family.
+
+
+
+
+The Inheritance of Humour
+
+
+There are some truths which seem to get old almost as soon as they are
+born, and that simply because they are so astonishingly true that people
+soon get to feel as though they have known them all their lives; and
+such a truth is that which first one writer and then another in the last
+five years has been insisting upon, until it is already a perfect
+commonplace that nations do not know their own qualities. The inmost,
+the characteristic thing, that which differentiates one community from
+another, as tastes or colours differentiate things--_that_ a
+nation hardly ever knows until it is pointed out to it by some foreigner
+or by some observer from within. It cannot know it, because one cannot
+tell the very atmosphere in which one lives. It is universal and
+therefore unnoticed. Now, if this is true of any nation, it is
+particularly true of England. And English people need to be told
+morning, noon, and night, not indeed the particular national
+characteristic which they have, since for this no particular name could
+be found, but rather what its evidences are; as, for instance,
+spontaneity in design, a passion for the mystical in poetry and the
+arts; a power in water-colour, in which they are perhaps quite alone,
+and certainly the first in Europe; and, above all, the chief, the master
+thing of all, humour.
+
+There is not nor ever will be anything like English humour. It is a
+thing quite apart, and by it for now more than two hundred years you may
+know England. It does not puzzle the foreigner (as the more blatant kind
+of intellectual man is too fond of boasting that it does); he simply
+admires it as a rule and wonders at it always; sometimes he actually
+dislikes it, but by it he knows that the thing he is reading is English
+and has the savour and taste of England.
+
+It is impossible to define it, because it is so full of stuff and so
+organic a quality; but in our own time it was principally the pencil of
+Charles Keene that has summed it up and presented it in a moment and at
+once to the eye--the pencil of Charles Keene and that profound instinct
+whereby he chose the legends for his drawing, whether he found them by
+his own sympathy with the people or whether they were suggested to him
+by friends.
+
+It is the verdict of the men most competent perhaps to judge upon these
+things that he had the greatest graphic power of his time, and that no
+one had had that power to such an extent since Hogarth. Upon these
+things the men of the trade must dispute; the layman cannot doubt that
+he had here a genius and a genius comprehensively national. It is the
+essence of a good draughtsman that what he wants to draw, that he draws.
+The line that he desires to see upon the paper appears there as his
+fingers move. It is a quality extremely rare in its perfection. And
+Charles Keene had it in perfection, as in totally different manner had
+the offensive and diseased talent of Beardsley.
+
+But more important than the power to do is the quality of the thing
+done, and the work of Charles Keene, multitudinous, varied, always
+great, is an inheritance for English people comparable to the
+inheritance they have in Dickens. It has also what Dickens had, a power
+of representing, as it were, the essential English. Just that which
+makes people say (with some truth) that Dickens never drew a gentleman
+would make them say with equal truth that what was interesting in the
+gentlemen of Charles Keene (and he perpetually drew them) was not the
+externals upon which gentlemen so pride themselves, but the soul. Thus I
+have in mind one picture wherein Keene drew a gentleman; true, he was a
+gentleman who had just swallowed a bad oyster, and therefore he was a
+man as well. I recall another of an old gentleman complaining of the
+caterpillar on his chop: he is a gentleman of the professional rather
+than the territorial classes, and, great heavens! what a power of line!
+All you see beneath the round of his hat is the end of his nose, the
+curve of his mouth, and two bushy ends of whiskers. Yet one can tell all
+about that man; one could write a book on him. One knows his economics,
+his religion, his accent, and what he thought of the Third Napoleon and
+what of Garibaldi. I have called draughtsmanship of this quality an
+inheritance--I might have called it perhaps with better propriety a
+monument. It is possible that England in the near future will look back
+with great envy, as she will certainly look back with great pride, to
+the generation preceding our own: they were a solid and a happy
+community of men. How much they owed to fortune, how much to themselves,
+it is not the place of such random stuff as mine to consider.
+
+They were nearly impregnable in their island; they were not bellicose.
+They made and sold for all the world. Whether the very different future
+which we are now entering is to be laid to their door or to our own,
+that generation will still remain one of the principal things in English
+history, like the Elizabethan generation, or the group of men who
+organized the Seven Years' War, or the group of men who fought in the
+Peninsula. And of that generation the note of health and of stability is
+represented by its humour. I am not sure that of all things educational
+to young men with no personal memory of that time, and especially to
+young men with no family tradition of it to reflect it in their books
+and their furniture; and--this yet more particularly--to young men born
+out of England yet claiming communion with England, the Anglo-Indians
+and the Colonials--I am not sure, I say, that the thing most educational
+to these would not be some hundred of Charles Keene's drawings, for
+therein they would find what it was that gave them the power and the
+wealth that can hardly be defended unless its traditions are continued.
+Note how Victorian England dealt with the humour of a Volunteer review;
+note how it dealt with the humour of excessive wealth; and note how it
+dealt with the humour of schools and of Dons. One might almost define it
+by negations. There is in all of it no--but here I lack a word.... When
+things ring false it is because they have got by exaggeration or by some
+other form of falsity _beside_ themselves. Appreciation of rank or
+even of worth becomes snobbishness; appreciation of another's judgment
+false taste; and patriotism, the most beautiful, the noblest, the most
+necessary of the great emotions, corrupts into something very vile
+indeed.
+
+Well, the Victorians, and notably this man of whose power of the pencil
+I am speaking, did lack that false savour, that savour of just missing
+what one wishes to say or to feel, which haunts us to-day; and I should
+imagine that whether it were cause or effect the salt present in the
+preservation of the moral health of that society was humour. Let us
+enjoy it like an heirloom. It is more national than the language; at
+least it is more national than what the language has become under
+foreign pressure; it is infinitely more national than our problems and
+our tragedies. It is so national that--who knows?--it may crop up again
+of itself one of these days; and may that not be long.
+
+
+
+
+The Old Gentleman's Opinions
+
+
+I had occasion about a fortnight ago to meet a man more nearly ninety
+than eighty years of age, who had had special opportunity for
+discovering the changes of Europe during his long life. He was of the
+English wealthier classes by lineage, but his mother had been of the
+French nobility and a Huguenot. His father had been prominent in the
+diplomacy of a couple of generations ago. He had travelled widely, read
+perhaps less widely, but had known and appreciated an astonishing number
+of his contemporaries.
+
+I was interested (without any power of my own to judge whether his
+decisions were right or wrong) to discover what most struck him in the
+changes produced by that great stretch of years, all of which he had
+personally observed: he was born just after Waterloo, and he could
+remember the Reform Bill.
+
+He surprised me by telling me, in the first place, that the material
+changes and discoveries, enormous though they were in extent, were not,
+in his view, the most striking. He was ready to leave it open whether
+these material changes were the causes of moral changes more remarkable,
+or merely effects concomitant with these. When I asked him what had
+struck him most of the great material developments, he told me the
+phonograph and the aeroplane among inventions; Mendel's observations in
+the sphere of experimental knowledge; and, in the sphere of pure theory,
+the breakdown of many things that had been dogmas of physical science in
+his early manhood.
+
+Since I did not quite understand what he meant by this last, he gave me,
+after some hesitation, a few examples: That the interior of the earth
+was molten; that a certain limited number of elements--not all yet
+isolated, but certainly few in their total--were at the base of all
+material forms, and were immutable; that the ultimate unit of each of
+these was a certain indivisible, eternal thing called the Atom; and so
+forth.
+
+He assured me that views of this sort, extending over a hundred or a
+thousand other points, were so universally accepted in his time that to
+dispute them was to be ranked with the unlettered or the fantastic. I
+asked him if it were so in economics. He said: Yes, in England, where
+there was a similar dogma of Free Trade: not abroad.
+
+When I asked him why Mendel's published experiments and the theory based
+upon them had so much impressed him, he said because it was almost the
+first attempt to apply to the speculative dogmas of biology some
+standard demonstrably true; and here he wandered off to explain to me
+why the commonly accepted views upon biology, which had so changed
+thought in the latter part of his life, were associated with the name of
+Darwin. Darwin, he assured me, had brought forward no new discovery, but
+only a new hypothesis, and that only a small and particular hypothesis,
+whereby to explain the general theory of transformism. This theory, he
+told me--the unbroken descent of living organisms and their physical
+connection with one another and with common parents--had been a
+favourite idea from the beginning of history with many great thinkers,
+from Lucretius to Buffon and from Augustus of Hippo to Lamarck.
+Darwin's, the old gentleman assured me, which he had defended with
+infinite toil, was that the method in which this continuity of descent
+proceeded was by an infinitely slow process of very small changes
+differentiating each minute step from the one before and the one after
+it, and these small changes Darwin's hypothesis referred to a natural
+selection. Nothing else in Darwin's work, he assured me, was novel, and
+yet it was the one thing which subsequent research had rendered more and
+more doubtful. Darwin (he said) said nothing new that was also true.
+
+At this point I was moved to contradict the old gentleman, and to say
+that one unquestioned contribution to science of Darwin, as novel as it
+was secure, was his patient discovery of the work of earthworms, and of
+its vast effect. The old gentleman was willing to admit that I was
+right, but he said he was only speaking of Darwin in connection with
+transformism and the whimsical way in which his private name (and his
+errors) had become identified with evolution in general.
+
+I asked him, since he had such a knowledge of men from observation, why
+this was so.
+
+"It seems at first sight," he said, "as ridiculous as though we should
+associate the theory of light with the name of Newton, who inclined to
+the exploded corpuscular hypothesis, or the general conception of
+orbital motion in the universe to the great Bacon, who, in point of
+fact, rudely repudiated the Copernican theory in particular."
+
+"Did he, indeed?" said I, interested.
+
+"I believe so," said the old gentleman; "at any rate you were asking me
+why Darwin, with his single contribution to the theory of transformism,
+and that a doubtful one--or, to be accurate, an exploded one--should be
+associated in the popular mind with the invention of so ancient a theory
+as that of evolution. The reason is, I think, no more than that he came
+at a particular moment when any man doing great quantities of detailed
+work in this field was bound to stand out exaggeratedly. The society in
+which he appeared had, until just before his day, accepted a narrow
+cosmogony, quite unknown to its ancestors. Darwin's book certainly
+exploded that, and the mind of his time--ignorant as it was of the
+past--was ready to accept the shattering of its father's idols as a new
+revelation."
+
+"But you were saying," said I, when he had thus dealt harshly with a
+great name, "that not the material but the moral changes of your time
+seemed to you the greatest. Which did you mean?"
+
+"Why, in the first place," said the old man thoughtfully and with some
+hesitation, "the curiously rapid decline of intelligence, or if you will
+have it differently, the clouding of thought that has marked the last
+thirty years. Men in my youth knew what they held and what they did not
+hold. They knew why they held it or why they did not hold it; but the
+attempt to enjoy the advantages of two contradictory systems at the same
+time, and, what is worse, the consulting of a man as an authority upon
+subjects he had never professed to know, are intellectual phenomena
+quite peculiar to the later years of my life."
+
+I said we of the younger generation had all noticed it, as, for
+instance, when an honest but imperfectly intelligent chemist was
+listened to in his exposition of the nature of the soul, or a well-paid
+religious official was content to expound the consolations of
+Christianity while denying that Christianity was true.
+
+"But," I continued, "we are usually told that this unfortunate decline
+in the express powers of the brain is due to the wide and imperfect
+education of the populace at the present moment."
+
+"That is not the case," answered the old man sharply, when I had made
+myself clear by repeating my remarks in a louder tone, for he was a
+little deaf.
+
+"That is not the case. The follies of which I speak are not particularly
+to be discovered among the poorer classes who have passed through the
+elementary schools. _These_" (it was to the schools that he was
+alluding with a comprehensive pessimism) "may account for the gross
+decline apparent in the public manners of our people, but not for faults
+which are peculiar to the upper and middle classes. It is not in the
+populace, but in those wealthier ranks that you will find the sort of
+intellectual decay of which I spoke."
+
+I asked him whether he thought the tricks it was now considered cultured
+to play with mathematics came within the category of this intellectual
+decay. The old gentleman answered me a little abruptly that he could not
+judge what I was talking about.
+
+"Why," said I, "do you believe that parallel straight lines
+_converge_ or _diverge_?"
+
+"Neither," said he, a little bewildered. "If they are parallel they
+cannot by definition either diverge or converge."
+
+"You are, then," said I, "an old-fashioned adherent of the theory of the
+parabolic universe?" At which sensible reply of mine the old man
+muttered rather ill-temperedly, and begged me to speak of something
+else.
+
+I asked him whether the knowledge of languages had not declined in his
+time. He said, somewhat emphatically, yes, and especially the knowledge
+of French, assuring me that in his early years many a Fellow of a
+College at Oxford or at Cambridge was capable of speaking that tongue in
+such a fashion as to make himself understood. On the other hand, he
+admitted that German and Spanish were more widely known than they had
+been, and Arabic certainly far more widely diffused among those
+officials of the Empire who took their work seriously.
+
+When I asked him whether politics were more corrupt as time proceeded,
+he said No, but more cynical; and as to morals he would not judge, for
+he was certain that as one vice was corrected another appeared in its
+place.
+
+What he told me he most deplored in the social system of his country was
+the power of the police and of the statistician by whom the policeman
+was guided. This he ascribed to the growth of great towns, to civic
+cowardice, and to a new taboo laid upon uniformed and labelled public
+authorities, who are now regarded as sacred, and also inordinately
+feared.
+
+"In my youth," he said, "there was a joke that every man in Paris was
+known to the police. Today that is universally true, and no joke with
+regard to every man in London. Our movements are marked, our earnings,
+our expenses, and our most private affairs known to the innumerable
+officials of the Treasury, our records of every sort, however intimate,
+are exactly and correctly maintained. The obtaining of work and a
+livelihood is dependent upon strong organizations. There is hardly an
+ailment or a domestic habit, from drinking wine to eating turnips, which
+some crank who has obtained the ear of a politician does not control or
+threaten in the immediate future to control."
+
+"As for doctors!" he began, his voice cracking with indignation, "their
+abominable...." but here the old gentleman fell into so violent a fit of
+coughing that he nearly turned black in the face, and when I
+respectfully slapped him on the back, in the hopes of granting him
+relief, he made matters worse by shaking himself at me with an energy
+worthy of 1842. His nurse rushed in, clapped him upon his pillows, and
+was prepared to vent her wrath upon me for having caused this paroxysm,
+when the old man's exhaustion and laboured breathing captured all her
+attention, and I had the opportunity to withdraw.
+
+
+
+
+On Historical Evidence
+
+
+The last book to be published upon the last Dauphin of France set me
+thinking upon what seems to me the chief practical science in which
+modern men should secure themselves. I mean the science of history--and
+in this science almost all lies in the appreciation of evidence, for one
+of the chief particular problems presented to the student of history at
+the present moment is whether the Dauphin did or did not survive his
+imprisonment in the Temple.
+
+Let me first say why, to so many of us, the science of history and the
+appreciation of the evidence upon which it depends is of the first
+moment. It is because, short of vision or revelation, history is our
+only extension of human experience. It is true that a philosophy common
+to all citizens is necessary for a State if it is to, live--but short
+of that necessity the next most necessary factor is a knowledge of the
+stuff of mankind: of how men act under certain conditions and impulses.
+This knowledge may be acquired, and is in some measure, during the
+experience of one wise lifetime, but it is indefinitely extended by the
+accumulation of experience which history affords.
+
+And what history so gives us is always of immediate and practical
+moment.
+
+For instance, men sometimes speak with indifference of the rival
+theories as to the origin of European land tenure; they talk as though
+it were a mere academic debate whether the conception of private
+property in land arose comparatively late among Europeans or was native
+and original in our race. But you have only to watch a big popular
+discussion on that very great and at the present moment very living
+issue, the moral right to the private ownership in land, to see how
+heavily the historic argument weighs with every type of citizen. The
+instinct that gives that argument weight is a sound one, and not less
+sound in those who have least studied the matter than in those who have
+most studied it; for if our race from its immemorial origins has desired
+to own land as a private thing side by side with communal tenures, then
+it is pretty certain that we shall not modify that intention, however
+much we change our laws. If, on the other hand, it could be shown that
+before the advent of a complex civilization Europeans had no conception
+of private property in land, but treated land as a thing necessarily and
+always communal, then you could ascribe modern Socialist theories with
+regard to the land to that general movement of harking back to the
+origins which Europe has been assisting at through over a hundred years
+of revolution and of change.
+
+It sounds cynical, but it is perfectly true, that much the largest
+factor in the historical conception of men is assertion. It is literally
+true that when men (with the exception of a very small proportion of
+scholars who are also intelligent) consider the past, the picture on which
+they dwell is a picture conveyed to them wholly by authority and by
+unquestioned authority. There was never a time when the original sources
+of history were more easily to be consulted by the plain man; but whether
+because of their very number, or because the habit is not yet formed, or
+because there are traditions of imaginary difficulty surrounding such
+reading, original sources were perhaps never less familiar to fairly
+educated opinion than they are today; and therefore no type of book gives
+more pleasure when one comes across it than those little cheap books, now
+becoming fairly numerous, in which the original sources, and the
+original sources alone, are put before the reader. Mr. Rait has already
+done such work in connection with Mary Queen of Scots, and Mr. Archer
+did it admirably in connection with the Third Crusade.
+
+But apart from the importance of consulting original sources--which is
+like hearing the very witnesses themselves in court--there is a factor
+in historical judgment which by some unhappy accident is peculiarly
+lacking in the professional historian. It is a factor to which no
+particular name can be attached, though it may be called a department of
+common sense. But it is a mental power or attitude easily recognizable
+in those who possess it, and perhaps atrophied by the very atmosphere of
+the study. It goes with the open air with a general knowledge of men and
+with that rapid recognition of the way in which things "fit in" which is
+necessarily developed by active life.
+
+For instance, when you know the pace at which Harold marched down from
+the north to Hastings you recognize, if you use that factor of historic
+judgment of which I spake, that the affair was not barbaric. There must
+have been fairly good roads, and there must have been a high
+organization of transport. You have only to consider for a moment what a
+column looks like, even if it be only a brigade, to see the truth of
+that. Again, this type of judgment forbids anyone who uses it to ascribe
+great popular movements (great massacres, great turmoils, and so forth)
+to craft. It is a very common thing, especially in modern history, to
+lay such things to the power of one or two wealthy or one or two bloody
+leaders, but you have only to think for a few moments of what a mob is
+to see the falsity of that. Craft can harness this sort of explosive
+force, it can control it, or persuade it, or canalize it to certain
+issues, but it cannot create it.
+
+Again, this sort of sense easily recognizes in historic types the
+parallels of modern experience. It avoids the error of thinking history
+a mistake and making of the men and women who appear there something
+remote from humanity, extreme, and either stilted or grandiose.
+
+In aid of this last feature in historical judgment there is nothing of
+such permanent value as a portrait. Obtain your conception (as, indeed,
+most boys do) of the English early sixteenth century from a text, then
+go and live with the Holbeins for a week and see what an enormously
+greater thing you will possess at the end of it. It is indeed one of the
+misfortunes of European history that from the fifth century to at least
+the eleventh we are, so far as Western European history is concerned,
+deprived of portraits. And by an interesting parallel the writers of the
+dark time seemed to have had neither the desire nor the gift of vivid
+description. Consider the dreariness of the hagiographers, every one of
+them boasting the noble rank and the conventional status of his hero,
+and you may say not one giving the least conception of the man's
+personality. You have the great Gallo-Roman noble family of Ferreolus
+running down the centuries from the Decline of the Empire to the climax
+of Charlemagne. Many of those names stand for some most powerful
+individuality, yet all we have is a formula, a lineage, with symbols and
+names in the place of living beings, and even that established only by
+careful work, picking out and sifting relationships from various lives.
+The men of that time did not even think to tell us that there was such a
+thing as a family tradition, nor did it seem important to them to
+establish its Roman origin and its long succession in power.
+
+Next it must be protested that the smallness and particularity of the
+questions upon which historical discussion rages are no proof either of
+its general purposelessness nor of _their_ insignificance. All
+advance of knowledge proceeds in this fashion. Physical science affords
+innumerable examples of the way in which progress has depended upon a
+curiosity directed towards apparently insignificant things, and there is
+something in the mind which compels it to select a narrow field for the
+exercise of its acutest powers. Moreover, special points, discussion
+upon which must evidently be lengthy and may be indefinite, are
+peculiarly attractive to just that kind of man who by a love of
+prolonged research enlarges the bounds of knowledge and at the same time
+strengthens and improves for his fellows by continual exercise all the
+instruments of their common trade. Take, for instance, this case of the
+little Dauphin, Louis XVII. It really does not matter to day whether the
+boy got away or whether he died in prison. It does not prolong the line
+of the Capetians--the heir to that is present in the Duke of Orleans. It
+does not even affect our view of any other considerable part of
+history--save possibly the policy of Louis XVIII--and it is of no direct
+interest to our pockets or to our affections. Yet the masses of work
+which have accumulated round that one doubt have solved twenty other
+doubts. They have illuminated all the close of the Terror; they are
+beginning to make us understand that most difficult piece of political
+psychology, the reaction of Thermidor, and with it how Europeans lose
+their balance and regain it in the course of their quasi-religious wars;
+for all our wars have something in them of religion.
+
+Three elements appear to enter into the judgment of history. First,
+there is the testimony of human witnesses; next, there are the non-human
+boundaries wherein the action took place, boundaries which, by all our
+experience, impose fixed limits to action; thirdly, there is that
+indefinable thing, that mystic power, which all nations deriving from
+the theology of the Western Church have agreed to call, with the
+schoolman, _common sense_; a general appreciation which transcends
+particular appreciations and which can integrate the differentials of
+evidence. Of this last it is quite impossible to afford a test or to
+construct a measure; its presence in an argument is none the less as
+readily felt as fresh air in a room; without it nothing is convincing
+however laboured, with it, even though it rely upon slight evidence, one
+has the feeling of walking on a firm road. But it must be "common
+sense"--it must be of the sort, that is, which is common to man various
+and general, and it is in this perhaps that history suffers most from
+the charlatanism and ritual common to all great matters.
+
+Men will have pomp and mystery surrounding important things, and
+therefore the historians must, consciously or unconsciously, tend to
+strut, to quote solemn authorities in support, and to make out the
+vulgar unworthy of their confidence. Hence, by the way, the plague of
+footnotes.
+
+These had their origin in two sources: the desire to show that one was
+honest and to prove it by a reference; the desire to elucidate some
+point which it was not easy to elucidate in the text itself without
+making the sentence too elaborate and clumsy. Either use may be seen at
+its best in Gibbon. With the last generation they have served mainly,
+and sometimes merely, for ritual adornment and terror, not to make
+clearer or more honest, but to deceive. Thus Taine in his monstrously
+false history of the Revolution revels in footnotes; you have but to
+examine a batch of them with care to turn them completely against his
+own conclusions--they are only put there as a sort of spiked paling to
+warn off trespassers. Or, again, M. Thibaut, who writes under the name
+of "Anatole France," gives footnotes by the score in his romance of Joan
+of Arc, apparently not even caring to examine whether they so much as
+refer to his text, let alone support it. They seem to have been done by
+contract.
+
+Another ailment in this department is the negative one, whereby an
+historian will leave out some aspect which to him, cramped in a study,
+seems unimportant, but which any plain man moving in the world would
+have told him to be the essential aspect of the whole matter. For
+instance, when Napoleon left Madrid on his forced march to intercept Sir
+John Moore before that general should have reached Benevente, he thought
+Moore was at Valladolid, when as a fact he was at Sahagun. In Mr. Oman's
+history of the Peninsular War the error is put thus: "Napoleon had not
+the comparatively easy task of cutting the road between Valladolid and
+Astorga, but the much harder one of intercepting that between Sahagun
+and Astorga."
+
+Why is this egregious nonsense? The facts are right and so are the dates
+and the names, yet it makes one blush for Oxford history. Why? Because
+the all-important element of _distance_ is omitted. The very first
+question a plain man would ask about the case would be, "What were the
+distances involved?" The academic historian doesn't know, or, at least,
+doesn't say; yet without an appreciation of the distances the statement
+has no value. As a fact the distances were such that in the first case
+(supposing Moore had been at Valladolid) Napoleon would have had to
+cover nearly three miles to Moore's one to intercept him--an almost
+superhuman task. In the second case (Moore being as a fact at Sahagun)
+he would have had to go over _four miles_ to his opponent's one--an
+absolutely impossible feat.
+
+To march _three_ miles to the enemy's _one_ is what Mr. Oman
+calls "a comparatively easy task"; to march four to his one is what Mr.
+Oman calls a "much harder" task; and to write like that is what an
+informed critic calls bad history.
+
+The other two factors in an historical judgment can be more easily
+measured.
+
+The non-human elements which, as I have said, are irremovable (save to
+miracle), are topography, climate, season, local physical conditions,
+and so forth. They have two valuable characters in aid of history; the
+first is that they correct the errors of human memory and support the
+accuracy of details; the second is that they enable us to complete a
+picture. We can by their aid "see" the physical framework in which an
+action took place, and such a landscape helps the judgment of things
+past as it does of things contemporary. Thus the map, the date, the
+soil, the contours of Crcy field make the traditional spot at which the
+King of Bohemia fell doubtful; the same factors make it certain that
+Drouet did not plunge haphazard through Argonne on the night of June 21,
+1791, but that he must have gone by one path--which can be determined.
+
+Or, again, take that prime question, why the Prussians did not charge at
+Valmy. On their failure to do so all the success of the Revolution
+turned. A man may read Dumouriez, Kellermann, Pully, Botidoux,
+Massenback, Goethe--there are fifty eye-witnesses at least whose
+evidence we can collect, and I defy anyone to decide. (Brunswick himself
+never knew.) But go to that roll of land between Valmy and the high
+road; go after three days' rain as the allies did, and you will
+immediately learn. That field between the heights of "The Moon" and the
+site of old Valmy mill, which is as hard as a brick in summer (when the
+experts visit it), is a marsh of the worst under an autumn drizzle; no
+one could have charged.
+
+As for human testimony, three things appear: first, that the witness is
+not, as in a law court, circumscribed. His relation may vary infinitely
+in degree of proximity of time or space to the action, from that of an
+eye-witness writing within the hour to that of a partisan writing at
+tenth hand a lifetime after. That question of proximity comes first,
+from the known action of the human mind whereby it transforms colours
+and changes remembered things. Next there is the character of the
+witness _for the purposes of his testimony_. Historians write, too
+often, as though virtue--or wealth (with which they often confound
+it)--were the test. It is not, short of a known motive for lying; a
+murderer or a thief casually witnessing to a thing with which he is
+familiar is worth more than the best man witnessing in a matter which he
+understands ill. It was this error which ruined Croker's essay on
+Charlotte Robespierre's Memoirs. Croker thought, perhaps wisely, that
+all radicals were scoundrels; he could not accept her editor's evidence,
+and (by the way) the view of this amateur collector without a tincture
+of historical scholarship actually imposed itself on Europe for nearly
+seventy years!
+
+And the third character in the witness is support: the support upon
+converging lines of other human testimony, most of it indifferent, some
+(this is essential) casual and by the way--deprived therefore of motive.
+
+When I shall find these canons satisfied to oppose the strong
+probability and tradition of the Dauphin's death in prison I shall doubt
+that death, but not before.
+
+
+
+
+The Absence of the Past
+
+
+It is perhaps not possible to put into human language that emotion
+which rises when a man stands upon some plot of European soil and can
+say with certitude to himself: "Such and such great, or wonderful, or
+beautiful things happened here."
+
+Touch that emotion ever so lightly and it tumbles into the commonplace,
+and the deadest of commonplace. Neglect it ever so little and the
+Present (which is never really there, for even as you walk across
+Trafalgar Square it is yesterday and tomorrow that are in your mind),
+the Present, I say, or rather the immediate flow of things, occupies you
+altogether. But there is a mood, and it is a mood common in men who have
+read and who have travelled, in which one is overwhelmed by the sanctity
+of a place on which men have done this or that a long, long time ago.
+
+Here it is that the gentle supports which have been framed for human
+life by that power which launched it come in and help a man. Time does
+not remain, but space does, and though we cannot seize the Past
+physically we can stand physically upon the site, and we can have (if I
+may so express myself) a physical communion with the Past by occupying
+that very spot which the past greatness of man or of event has occupied.
+
+It was but the other day that, with an American friend at my side, I
+stood looking at the little brass plate which says that here Charles
+Stuart faced (he not only faced, but he refused) the authority of his
+judges. I know not by what delicate mechanism of the soul that record
+may seem at one moment a sort of tourist thing, to be neglected or
+despised, and at another moment a portent. But I will confess that all
+of a sudden, pointing out this very well-known record upon the brass let
+into the stone in Westminster Hall, I suddenly felt the presence of the
+thing. Here all that business was done: they were alive; they were in
+the Present as we are. Here sat that tender-faced, courageous man, with
+his pointed beard and his luminous eyes; here he was a living man
+holding his walking-stick with the great jewel in the handle of it; here
+was spoken in the very tones of his voice (and how a human voice
+perishes!--how we forget the accents of the most loved and the most
+familiar voices within a few days of their disappearance!); here the
+small gestures, and all the things that make up a personality, marked
+out Charles Stuart. When the soul is seized with such sudden and
+positive conviction of the substantial past it is overwhelmed; and
+Europe is full of such ghosts.
+
+As you take the road to Paradise, about halfway there you come to an
+inn, which even as inns go is admirable. You go into the garden of it,
+and see the great trees and the wall of Box Hill shrouding you all
+around. It is beautiful enough (in all conscience) to arrest one without
+the need of history or any admixture of the pride of race; but as you
+sit there on a seat in that garden you are sitting where Nelson sat when
+he said goodbye to his Emma, and if you will move a yard or two you will
+be sitting where Keats sat biting his pen and thinking out some new line
+of his poem.
+
+What has happened? These two men with their keen, feminine faces, these
+two great heroes of a great time in the great story of a great people of
+this world, are not there. They are nowhere. But the site remains.
+
+Philosophers can put in formulae the crowd of suggestions that rush into
+the mind when one's soul contemplates the perpetual march and passage of
+mortality. But they can do no more than give us formularies: they cannot
+give us replies. What are we? What is all this business? Why does the
+mere space remain and all the rest dissolve?
+
+There is a lonely place in the woods of Chilham, in the County of Kent,
+above the River Stour, where a man comes upon an irregular earthwork
+still plainly marked upon the brow of the bluff. Nobody comes near this
+place. A vague country lane, or rather track; goes past the wet soil of
+it, plunges into the valley beyond, and after serving a windmill joins
+the high road to Canterbury. Well, that vague track is the ancient
+British road, as old as anything in this Island, that took men from
+Winchester to the Straits of Dover. That earthwork is the earthwork (I
+could prove it, but this is not the place) where the British stood
+against the charge of the Tenth Legion, and first heard, sounding on
+their bronze, the arms of Caesar. Here the river was forded; here the
+little men of the South went up in formation; here the Barbarian broke
+and took his way, as the opposing General has recorded, through devious
+woodland paths, scattering in the pursuit; here began the great history
+of England.
+
+Is it not an enormous business merely to stand in such a place? I think
+so.
+
+I know a field to the left of the Chalons Road, some few miles before
+you get to Ste. Menehould. There used to be an inn by the roadside
+called "The Sign of the Moon." It has disappeared. There used to be a
+ramshackle windmill beyond the field, a mile or so from the road, on an
+upland swell of land, but that also has gone, and had been gone for some
+time before I knew the field of which I write. It is a bare fold of land
+with one or two little scrubby spinneys alongside the plough. And for
+the rest, just the brown earth and the sky. There are days on which you
+will see a man at work somewhere within that mile, others on which it is
+completely deserted. Here it is that the French Revolution was
+preserved. Here was the Prussian charge. On the deserted, ugly lump of
+empty earth beyond you were the three batteries that checked the
+invaders. It was all alive and crowded for one intense moment with the
+fate of Christendom. Here, on the place in which you are standing and
+gazing, young Goethe stood and gazed. That meaningless stretch of coarse
+grass supported Brunswick and the King of Prussia, and the brothers of
+the King of France, as they stood windswept in the rain, watching the
+failure of the charge. It is the field of Valmy. Turn on that height and
+look back westward and you see the plains rolling out infinitely; they
+are the plains upon which Attila was crushed; but there is no one there.
+
+All men have remarked that night and silence are august, and I think
+that if this quality in night and silence be closely examined it will be
+found to consist, in part at least, in this: that either of them
+symbolizes Absence. By a paradox which I will not attempt to explain,
+but which all have felt, it is in silence and in darkness that the Past
+most vividly returns, and that this absence of what once was possesses,
+nay, obtrudes itself upon the mind: it becomes almost a sensible thing.
+There is much to be said for those who pretend, imagine, or perhaps have
+experienced under such conditions the return of the dead. The mood of
+darkness and of silence is a mood crammed with something that does not
+remain, as space remains, that is limited by time, and is a creature of
+time, and yet something that has an immortal right to remain.
+
+Now, I suppose that in that sentence where I say things mortal have
+immortal rights to permanence, the core of the whole business is touched
+upon. And I suppose that the great men who could really think and did
+not merely fire off fireworks to dazzle their contemporaries--I suppose
+that Descartes, for instance, if he were here sitting at my table--could
+help me to solve that contradiction; but I sit and think and cannot
+solve it.
+
+"What," says the man upon his own land, inherited perhaps and certainly
+intended for his posterity--"what! Can you separate me from this? Are
+not this and I bound up inextricably?" The answer is "No; you are not so
+far as any observer of this world can discover. Space is in no way
+possessed by man, and he who may render a site immortal in one of our
+various ways, the captain who there conquered, the poet who there
+established his sequence of words, cannot himself put forward a claim to
+permanence within it at all."
+
+There was a woman of charming vivacity, whose eyes were ever ready for
+laughter, and whose tone of address of itself provoked the noblest of
+replies. Many loved her; all admired. She passed (I will suppose) by
+this street or by that; she sat at table in such and such a house;
+Gainsborough painted her; and all that time ago there were men who had
+the luck to meet her and to answer her laughter with their own. And the
+house where she moved is there and the street in which she walked, and
+the very furniture she used and touched with her hands you may touch
+with your hands. You shall come into the rooms that she inhabited, and
+there you shall see her portrait, all light and movement and grace and
+beatitude.
+
+She is gone altogether, the voice will never return, the gestures will
+never be seen again. She was under a law; she changed, she suffered, she
+grew old, she died; and there was her place left empty. The not living
+things remain; but what counted, what gave rise to them, what made them
+all that they are, has pitifully disappeared, and the greater, the
+infinitely greater, thing was subject to a doom perpetually of change
+and at last of vanishing. The dead surroundings are not subject to such
+a doom. Why?
+
+All those boys who held the line of the low ridge or rather swell of
+land from Hougoumont through the Belle Alliance have utterly gone. More
+than dust goes, more than wind goes; they will never be seen again.
+Their voices will never be heard--they are not. But what is the mere
+soil of the field without them? What meaning has it save for their
+presence?
+
+I could wish to understand these things.
+
+
+
+
+St. Patrick
+
+
+If there is one thing that people who are not Catholic have gone wrong
+upon more than another in the intellectual things of life, it is the
+conception of a Personality. They are muddled about it where their own
+little selves are concerned, they misappreciate it when they deal with
+the problems of society, and they have a very weak hold of it when they
+consider (if they do consider) the nature of Almighty God.
+
+Now, personality is everything. It was a Personal Will that made all
+things, visible and invisible. Our hope of immortality resides in this,
+that we are persons, and half our frailties proceed from a
+misapprehension of the awful responsibilities which personality involves
+or a cowardly ignorance of its powers of self-government.
+
+The hundred and one errors which this main error leads to include a bad
+error on the nature of history. Your modern non-Catholic or
+anti-Catholic historian is always misunderstanding, underestimating, or
+muddling the role played in the affairs of men by great and individual
+Personalities. That is why he is so lamentably weak upon the function of
+legend; that is why he makes a fetish of documentary evidence and has no
+grip upon the value of tradition. For traditions spring from some
+personality invariably, and the function of legend, whether it be a
+rigidly true legend or one tinged with make-believe, is to interpret
+Personality. Legends have vitality and continue, because in their origin
+they so exactly serve to explain or illustrate some personal character
+in a man which no cold statement could give.
+
+Now St. Patrick, the whole story and effect of him, is a matter of
+Personality. There was once--twenty or thirty years ago--a whole school
+of dunderheads who wondered whether St. Patrick ever existed, because
+the mass of legends surrounding his name troubled them. How on earth
+(one wonders) do such scholars consider their fellow-beings! Have they
+ever seen a crowd cheering a popular hero, or noticed the expression
+upon men's faces when they spoke of some friend of striking power
+recently dead? A great growth of legends around a man is the very best
+proof you could have not only of his existence but of the fact that he
+was an origin and a beginning, and that things sprang from his will or
+his vision. There were some who seemed to think it a kind of favour done
+to the indestructible body of Irish Catholicism when Mr. Bury wrote his
+learned Protestant book upon St. Patrick. It was a critical and very
+careful bit of work, and was deservedly praised; but the favour done us
+I could not see! It is all to the advantage of non-Catholic history that
+it should be sane, and that a great Protestant historian should make
+true history out of a great historical figure was a very good sign. It
+was a long step back towards common sense compared with the German
+absurdities which had left their victims doubting almost all the solid
+foundation of the European story; but as for us Catholics, we had no
+need to be told it. Not only was there a St. Patrick in history, but
+there is a St. Patrick on the shores of his eastern sea and throughout
+all Ireland to-day. It is a presence that stares you in the face, and
+physically almost haunts you. Let a man sail along the Leinster coast on
+such a day as renders the Wicklow Mountains clear up-weather behind him,
+and the Mourne Mountains perhaps in storm, lifted clearly above the sea
+down the wind. He is taking some such course as that on which St.
+Patrick sailed, and if he will land from time to time from his little
+boat at the end of each day's sailing, and hear Mass in the morning
+before he sails further northward, he will know in what way St. Patrick
+inhabits the soil which he rendered sacred.
+
+We know that among the marks of holiness is the working of miracles.
+Ireland is the greatest miracle any saint ever worked. It is a miracle
+and a nexus of miracles. Among other miracles it is a nation raised from
+the dead.
+
+The preservation of the Faith by the Irish is an historical miracle
+comparable to nothing else in Europe. There never was, and please God
+never can be, so prolonged and insanely violent a persecution of men by
+their fellow-men as was undertaken for centuries against the Faith in
+Ireland: and it has completely failed. I know of no example in history
+of failure following upon such effort. It had behind it in combination
+the two most powerful of the evil passions of men, terror and greed. And
+so amazing is it that they did not attain their end, that perpetually as
+one reads one finds the authors of the dreadful business now at one
+period, now at another, assuming with certitude that their success is
+achieved. Then, after centuries, it is almost suddenly perceived--and in
+our own time--that it has not been achieved and never will be.
+
+What a complexity of strange coincidences combined, coming out of
+nothing as it were, advancing like spirits summoned on to the stage, all
+to effect this end! Think of the American Colonies; with one little
+exception they were perhaps the most completely non-Catholic society of
+their time. Their successful rebellion against the mother country meant
+many things, and led to many prophecies. Who could have guessed that one
+of its chief results would be the furnishing of a free refuge for the
+Irish?
+
+The famine, all human opinion imagined, and all human judgment was bound
+to conclude, was a mortal wound, coming in as the ally of the vile
+persecution I have named. It has turned out the very contrary. From it
+there springs indirectly the dispersion, and that power which comes from
+unity in dispersion, of Irish Catholicism.
+
+Who, looking at the huge financial power that dominated Europe, and
+England in particular, during the youth of our own generation, could
+have dreamt that in any corner of Europe, least of all in the poorest
+and most ruined corner of Christendom, an effective resistance could be
+raised?
+
+Behind the enemies of Ireland, furnishing them with all their modern
+strength, was that base and secret master of modern things, the usurer.
+He it was far more than the gentry of the island who demanded toll, and,
+through the mortgages on the Irish estates, had determined to drain
+Ireland as he has drained and rendered desert so much else. Is it not a
+miracle that he has failed?
+
+Ireland is a nation risen from the dead; and to raise one man from the
+dead is surely miraculous enough to convince one of the power of a great
+spirit. This miracle, as I am prepared to believe, is the last and the
+greatest of St. Patrick's.
+
+When I was last in Ireland, I bought in the town of Wexford a coloured
+picture of St. Patrick which greatly pleased me. Most of it was green in
+colour, and St. Patrick wore a mitre and had a crosier in his hand. He
+was turning into the sea a number of nasty reptiles: snakes and toads
+and the rest. I bought this picture because it seemed to me as modern a
+piece of symbolism as ever I had seen: and that was why I bought it for
+my children and for my home.
+
+There was a few pence change, but I did not want it. The person who sold
+me the picture said they would spend the change in candles for St.
+Patrick's altar. So St. Patrick is still alive.
+
+
+
+
+The Lost Things
+
+
+I never remember an historian yet, nor a topographer either, who could
+tell me, or even pretend to explain by a theory, how it was that certain
+things of the past utterly and entirely disappear.
+
+It is a commonplace that everything is subject to decay, and a
+commonplace which the false philosophy of our time is too apt to forget.
+Did we remember that commonplace we should be a little more humble in
+our guesswork, especially where it concerns prehistory; and we should
+not make so readily certain where the civilization of Europe began, nor
+limit its immense antiquity. But though it is a commonplace, and a true
+one, that all human work is subject to decay, there seems to be an
+inexplicable caprice in the method and choice of decay.
+
+Consider what a body of written matter there must have been to instruct
+and maintain the technical excellence of Roman work. What a mass of
+books on engineering and on ship-building and on road-making; what
+quantities of tables and ready-reckoners, all that civilization must
+have produced and depended upon. Time has preserved much verse, and not
+only the best by any means, more prose, particularly the theological
+prose of the end of the Roman time. The technical stuff, which must, in
+the nature of things, have been indefinitely larger in amount, has (save
+in one or two instances and allusions) gone.
+
+Consider, again, all that mass of seven hundred years which was called
+Carthage. It was not only seven hundred years of immense wealth, of
+oligarchic government, of a vast population, and of what so often goes
+with commerce and oligarchy--civil and internal peace. A few stones to
+prove the magnitude of its municipal work, a few ornaments, a few
+graves--all the rest is absolutely gone. A few days' marches away there
+is an example I have quoted so often elsewhere that I am ashamed of
+referring to it again, but it does seem to me the most amazing example
+of historical loss in the world. It is the site of Hippo Regius. Here
+was St. Augustine's town, one of the greatest and most populous of a
+Roman province. It was so large that an army of eighty thousand men
+could not contain it, and even with such a host its siege dragged on for
+a year. There is not a sign of that great town today.
+
+A suburb, well without the walls--to be more accurate, a neighbouring
+village--carries on the name under the form of Bona, and that is all. A
+vast, fertile plain of black rich earth, now largely planted with
+vineyards, stands where Hippo stood. How can the stones have gone? How
+can it have been worth while to cart away the marble columns? Why are
+there no broken statues on such a ground, and no relics of the gods?
+
+Nay, the wells are stopped up from which the people drank, and the
+lining of the wells is not to be discovered in the earth, and the
+foundations of the walls, and even the ornaments of the people and their
+coins, all these have been spirited away.
+
+Then there are the roads. Consider that great road which reached from
+Amiens to the main port of Gaul, the Portus Itius at Boulogne. It is
+still in use. It was in use throughout the Middle Ages. Up that road the
+French Army marched to Crcy. It points straight to its goal upon the
+sea coast. Its whole purpose lay in reaching the goal. For some
+extraordinary reason, which I have never seen explained or even guessed
+at, there comes a point as it nears the coast where it suddenly ceases
+to be.
+
+No sand has blown over it. It runs through no marshes; the land is firm
+and fertile. Why should that, the most important section of the great
+road which led northward from Rome, have failed, and have failed so
+recently, in the history of man? Where this great road crosses streams
+and might reasonably be lost, at its _pontes_, its bridges, it has
+remained, and is of such importance as to have given a name to a whole
+countryside--_Ponthieu_. But north of that it is gone.
+
+Nearly every Roman road of Gaul and Britain presents something of the
+same puzzle in some parts of its course. It will run clear and
+followable enough, or form a modern highway for mile upon mile, and then
+not at a marsh where one would expect its disappearance, nor in some
+desolate place where it might have fallen out of use, but in the
+neighbourhood of a great city and at the very chief of its purpose, it
+is gone. It is so with the Stane Street that led up from the garrison of
+Chichester and linked it with the garrison of London. You can
+reconstruct it almost to a yard until you reach Epsom Downs. There you
+find it pointing to London Bridge, and remaining as clear as in any
+other part of its course: much clearer than in most other sections. But
+try to follow it on from Epsom Racecourse, and you entirely fail. The
+soil is the same; the conditions of that soil are excellent for its
+retention; but a year's work has taught me that there is no
+reconstructing it save by hypothesis and guesswork from this point to
+the crossing of the Thames.
+
+What happened to all that mass of local documents whereby we ought to be
+able to build up the territorial scheme and the landed regime of old
+France? Much remains, if you will, in the shape of chance charters and
+family papers. Even in the archives of Paris you can get enough to whet
+your curiosity. But not even in one narrow district can you obtain
+enough to reconstruct the whole truth. There is not a scholar in Europe
+who can tell you exactly how land was owned and held, even, let us say,
+on the estates of Rheims or by the family of Cond. And men are ready to
+quarrel as to how many peasants owned and how much of their present
+ownership was due to the Revolution, evidence has already become so
+wholly imperfect in that tiny stretch of historical time.
+
+But, after all, perhaps one ought not to wonder too much that material
+things should thus capriciously vanish. Time, which has secured Timgad
+so that it looks like an unroofed city of yesterday, has swept and razed
+Laimboesis. The two towns were neighbours--one was taken and the other
+left--and there is no sort of reason any man can give for it. Perhaps
+one ought not too much to wonder, for a greater wonder still is the
+sudden evaporation and loss of the great movements of the human soul.
+That what our ancestors passionately believed or passionately disputed
+should, by their descendants in one generation or in two, become
+meaningless, absurd, or false--this is the greatest marvel and the
+greatest tragedy of all.
+
+
+
+
+On the Reading of History
+
+
+Let me at the beginning of this short article present two facts to the
+reader. Neither can be disputed, and that is why I call them facts and
+put them in the forefront before I begin upon my theories.
+
+The first fact is that the record of what men have done in the past and
+how they have done it is the chief positive guide to present action. The
+second fact is that most men must now receive the impression of the past
+through reading.
+
+Put these two facts together and you get the fundamental truth that upon
+the right reading of history the right use of citizenship in England
+today will depend. It will of course depend upon other things as well:
+chiefly upon the human conscience; for if you were to pack off to an
+island a hundred families as ignorant as any human families can be of
+tradition, and wholly ignorant of positive history, those families would
+yet be able to create a human society and the voice of God within them
+would give just limits to their actions.
+
+Still, of those factors in civic action amenable to civic direction,
+conscious and positively effective, there is nothing to compare with the
+right teaching and the right reading of history. Now teaching is today
+ruined. The old machinery by which the whole nation could be got to know
+all essential human things, has been destroyed, and the teaching of
+history in particular has been not only ruined but rendered ridiculous.
+There is no historical school properly so-called in modern England; that
+is, there is no organization framed with the sole object of extending
+and co-ordinating historical knowledge and of choosing men for their
+capacity to discover upon the one hand and to teach upon the other.
+There is nothing approaching to it in the two ancient universities,
+because the choice of teachers there depends upon a multitude of
+considerations quite separate from those mentioned, and the capacity to
+discover, to know, and to teach history, though it _may_ be present
+in a tutor, will only be accidentally so present: while as for
+co-ordination of knowledge, there is no attempt at it. Even where very
+hard work is done, and, when it concerns local history, very useful
+work, history as a general study is not grasped because the universities
+have not grasped it.
+
+History is to be had by the modern Englishman from his own reading only;
+and I am here concerned with the question how he shall read history with
+profit.
+
+To read history with profit, history must be true, or at any rate the
+reader must have a power of discerning what is true in the midst of much
+that may be false. I will bargain, for instance, that in the summer of
+1899 the great mass of men, and especially the great mass of men who had
+passed through the universities, were under the impression that armies
+had left England for the purpose of conquest in distant countries with
+invariable success: that that success had been unique, unsupported and
+always decisive, and that the wealth of the country after each success
+had increased, not diminished. In other words, had history been studied
+even by the tiny minority who have education today in England, Sir
+William Butler would have counted more than the Joels, and the late Mr.
+Barnato (as he called himself); the South African War would not have
+taken place in a society which knew its past.
+
+Again, you may pick almost any phrase referring to the Middle Ages out
+of any newspaper--if you are a man read in the Middle Ages--and you will
+find in it not only a definite historical falsehood with regard to the
+fact referred to, or the analogy drawn, but also a false philosophy.
+
+For instance, the other day I read this phrase with regard to the burial
+of a certain gentleman of my neighbourhood in Sussex: "We are surely
+past the phase of mediaeval thought in which it was imagined that a few
+words spoken over the lifeless clay would determine the fate of the soul
+for all eternity." Just notice the myriad falsehoods of a phrase like
+that! I will not discuss what is connoted by the words "past the phase
+of mediaeval thought"--it connotes of course that the human mind changes
+fundamentally with the centuries, and therefore that whatever we think
+is probably wrong, and that what we are sure of we cannot be sure of, an
+absurd conclusion. I will only note the historical falsehoods. When on
+earth did the "Middle Ages" lay down that a "few words over lifeless
+clay determined the fate of the soul for all eternity"? On the contrary,
+the Middle Ages laid it down--it was their peculiar doctrine--that it
+was impossible to determine the fate of the soul; that no one could tell
+the fate of any one individual soul; that it was a grievous sin, among
+the most grievous of sins, to affirm positive knowledge that any
+individual had lost his soul. More than this, the Middle Ages were
+peculiar in their insistence upon the doctrine that a man might have
+been very bad and might have had all the appearance of having lost his
+soul so far as human judgment went, and yet was liable to a midway place
+between salvation and damnation, and they affirmed that this midway
+place did not lead to either fate but necessarily to salvation and to
+salvation only.
+
+Again, whatever could help the human soul to salvation was by the most
+rigorous theological definition of the Middle Ages applicable only
+before death. After death the fate of the soul was sealed, and the man
+once dead, the "lifeless clay" (as the journalist put it--and the Middle
+Ages was the only source from which he got the idea of clay at all),
+whether it were that of a Pope or of some random highwayman, had no
+effect whatsoever upon the fate of the soul. The greatest saint might
+have offered the most solemn sacrifice on its behalf for years, and if
+the soul were damned his sacrifice would have been of no avail.
+
+I have taken this example absolutely at random. But the modern reader,
+apart from sentences as clearly provocative of criticism as this, is
+perpetually coming across references, allusions, and parallels which
+take a certain course of human European and English history for granted.
+How is he to distinguish when that course is rightly drawn from when it
+is wrongly drawn?
+
+Thus in some newspaper article written by an able man, and dealing, let
+us say, with the territorial army, one might come across a sentence like
+this: "Napoleon himself used troops so raw that they were actually
+drilled on the march to the battlefield." That would be a perfectly true
+statement. Any amount of criticism of it lies in connexion with Mr.
+Haldane's scheme, but still it is a true piece of history. Napoleon did
+get raw recruits into his battalions just before any one of his famous
+marches began, and drill them on the way to victory. In the next column
+of the newspaper the reader may be presented with a sentence like this:
+"The captures of English by privateers in the Revolutionary War should
+teach us what foreign cruisers can do."
+
+There were plenty of captures by privateers in the Revolutionary Wars;
+if I remember rightly, many many hundreds, all discreetly hidden from
+the common or garden reader until party politics necessitated their
+resurrection a hundred years after the event, but they have nothing
+whatsoever to do with modern circumstances.
+
+Both statements are true then, and yet one can be truthfully applied
+today, while the other cannot.
+
+How is the plain reader to distinguish between two historical truths,
+one of which is a useful modern analogy, the other of which is a
+ludicrously misleading one?
+
+The reader, it would seem, has no criterion by which to distinguish what
+has been withheld from him and what has been emphasized; he may, from
+his knowledge of the historian's character or bias, stand upon his
+guard, but he can do little more.
+
+There is another difficulty. It is less subtle and less common, but it
+exists. I mean brute lying. You do not often get the lie direct in
+official history; it would be too dangerous a game to play in the face
+of the critics, though some historians, and notably the French historian
+Taine, have played it boldly enough, and have stated dogmatically, as
+historical happenings, things that never happened and that they knew
+never happened. But the plain or brute historical lie is more commonly
+found in the pages of ephemeral journalism. Thus the other day, with
+regard to the Budget, I saw some financial operation alluded to as
+comparable with "the pulling out of Jews' teeth for money in the Middle
+Ages." When did anyone in the Middle Ages pull out a Jew's teeth for
+money? There is just one very doubtful story told about King John, and
+that story is told without proof by one of John's worst enemies, in a
+mass of other accusations many of which can be proved to be false.
+
+Again, I turn to an Oxford History of the French Revolution, and I find
+the remark that the massacres of September were organized by the men
+from Marseilles. They were not organized by the men from Marseilles. The
+men from Marseilles had nothing to do with them, and the fact has been
+public property since the publication of Pollio and Marcel's monograph
+twenty years ago.
+
+What criterion can the ordinary reader choose when he is confronted by
+difficulties of this sort? I will suggest to him one which seems to me
+by far the most valuable. It is the reading of firsthand authorities. It
+is all a matter of habit. When the original authorities upon which
+history is based were difficult to get at, when few of those in foreign
+tongues had been translated, and when those that had been published were
+published in the most expensive form, the ordinary reader had to depend
+upon an historian who would summarize for him the reading of another.
+The ordinary reader was compelled to read secondary history or none. Now
+secondary history is among the most valuable of literary efforts; where
+evidence is slight, the judgment of an historian who knows from other
+reading the general character of the period, is most valuable. Where
+evidence is abundant, and therefore confusing, the historian used to the
+selection and weighing of it performs a most valuable function. Still,
+the reader who is not acquainted with original authorities does not
+really know history and is at the mercy of whatever myth or tradition
+may be handed to him in print.
+
+We should remember that today, even in England, original authorities are
+quite easy to get at. Two little books, for instance, occur to me out of
+hundreds: Mr. Rait's book on Mary Stuart and Mr. Archer's on the Third
+Crusade. In each of these the reader gets in a cheap form, in modern and
+readable English, the kind of evidence upon which historians base their
+history, and he can use that evidence in the light of his own knowledge
+of human nature and his own judgment of human life.
+
+Or again, if he wants to know what the Romans really knew or said they
+knew about the German tribes who, as pirates, so greatly influenced the
+history of England, let him get Mr. Rouse's edition of Grenewey's
+translation of the Germania in Blackie's series of English texts; it
+will only cost sixpence, and for that money he will get a bit of
+Caesar's Gallic War and the Agricola as well. But the list nowadays is a
+very long one, luckily, and the lay reader has only to choose what
+period he would like to read up, and he will find for nearly every one
+first-hand evidence ready, cheap and published in a readable modern
+form. That he should take such first-hand evidence is the very best
+advice that any honest historian can give.
+
+
+
+
+The Victory
+
+
+The study of history, like the exploration, the thorough exploration, of
+any other field, leads one to perpetual novelties, miracles, and
+unexpected things; and I, in the study of the revolutionary wars, came
+across the story of a battle which completely possessed my spirit.
+
+It would not be to my purpose here to give its name. It is not among the
+most famous; it is not Waterloo, nor Leipsic, nor Austerlitz, nor even
+Jemappes. The more I read into the night the more I perceived that upon
+the issue of that struggle depended the fate of the modern world. So
+completely did the notes of Carnot and a few private letters that had
+been put before me absorb my attention that I will swear the bugle-calls
+of those two days (for it was a two-days' struggle) sounded more clearly
+in my ears than the rumble of the London streets, and, as this died out
+with the advance of the night and the approach of morning, I was living
+entirely upon that ridge in Flanders, watching, as a man watches an
+arena, whether the new things or the old should be victorious. It was
+the new that conquered.
+
+From that evening I was determined to visit this place of which so far I
+had but read, and to see how far it might agree with the vision I had
+had of it, and to people actual fields with the ghosts of dead soldiers.
+And for the better appreciation of the drama I chose the season and the
+days on which the fight had been driven across that rolling land, and I
+came there, as the Republicans had come, a little before the dawn.
+
+The hillside was silent and deserted, more even than are commonly such
+places, though silence and desertion seem the common atmosphere of all
+the fields on which such fates have been decided. A man looking over
+Carthage Bay, especially a man looking at those sodden pools that were
+the sound harbours of Carthage, might be in an uninhabited world; and
+the loop of the Trebbia is the same, and the edge of Fontenoy; and even
+here in England that hillside looking south up which the Normans charged
+at Battle is a quiet and a drowsy sort of place.... So it was here in
+Flanders.
+
+For two miles as I ascended by the little sunken lane which the extreme
+right wing had followed in the last attack I saw neither man nor beast,
+but only the same stubble of the same autumn fields, and the same colder
+sun shining upon the empty uplands until I reached the crest where the
+Hungarian and the Croat had met the charge, and had disputed the little
+village for two hours--a dispute upon which hung your fate and mine and
+that of Europe.
+
+It was a tiny little village, seven or eight houses together and no
+more, with a crazy little wooden steeple to its church all twisted awry,
+large barns, and comfortable hedgerows of the Northern kind; and from it
+one looked out westwards over an infinity of country, following low
+crest after low crest, down on to the French plains. I went into the inn
+of the place to drink, and found the cobbler there complaining that
+wealth disturbed the natural equality of men. Then I wandered out,
+pacing this point and that which I knew accurately from my maps, and
+thinking of the noise of the war. Behind the little church, upon a
+ramshackle green not large enough to pitch the stumps for single-wicket,
+was the modest monument, a cock in bronze, crowing, and the word
+"Victory" stamped into the granite of the pedestal; the whole thing, I
+suppose, not ten feet high. The bronze was very well done; it savoured
+strongly of Paris and looked odd in this abandoned little place. But
+every time my eyes sank from the bronze, to look at some other point in
+the landscape to identify the emplacement of such and such a battery or
+the gully that had concealed the advance of such and such a troop, my
+glance perpetually returned to that word "VICTORY," sculptured by itself
+upon the stone. It was indeed a victory; it was a victory which, for its
+huge unexpectedness, for the noise of it, for the length of time during
+which it was in doubt, for its final success, there is no parallel, and
+yet it is by no means among the famous battles of the world. And though
+the French count it one among the thousand of their battles, I doubt
+whether even in Paris most men would recognize it for the hammer-blow it
+was. The men of the time hardly knew it, though Carnot guessed at it, and
+now to-day in Sorbonne I think that regal fight is taking its true place.
+
+So I went down the eight miles of front northward along the ridge; for
+even that battle, a hundred and more years ago, had an extended front of
+this kind. I recognized the tall majestic fringe of beeches from which
+had issued the last of the Royalist regiments bearing for the last time
+upon a European field the white flag of the Bourbon Monarchy; I came
+beyond it to the combe fringed with its semicircle of underbrush in
+which Coburg had massed his guns in the last effort to break the French
+centre when his flank was turned. I came to the main highway, very
+broad, straight, and paved, which cuts this battlefield in two, and then
+beyond it to the central position whose capture had made the final
+manoeuvre possible.
+
+All Wednesday the Grenadiers, German, tall, padded, smart, and stout,
+had held their ground. It was not until Thursday, and by noon, that they
+were slowly driven up the hill by the ragged lads, the Gauls, shoeless,
+some not in uniform at all, half-mutinous, drunk with pain and glory.
+And I remembered, as the scene returned to me, that this battle, like so
+many of the Revolution, had been a battle of men against boys; how grey
+and veteran and trained in arms were the Austrians and the Prussians,
+their allies, how strict in orders, how calm: and what children the
+Terror had called up by force from the exhausted fields of remote French
+provinces, to break them here against the frontier, like water against a
+wall...!
+
+There was a little chap, twelve years old, a drummer; he had crept and
+crawled by hedgerows till he found himself behind the line of those
+volleying Grenadiers. There, "before his side," and breaking all rules,
+he had sounded the roll of the charge. They cut him down and killed him,
+and the roll of his drum ceased hard. A generation or more later,
+digging for foundations at this spot, the builders of the Peace came
+upon his bones, the little bones of a child heaped pell-mell with
+skeletons of the fallen giants round him.
+
+I went back into the town in whose defence the battle had been waged,
+and there I saw again in bronze this little lad, head high and mouth
+open, a-beating of his drum, and again the word "VICTORY."
+
+All that effort was undertaken, all those young men and children killed,
+for something that was to happen for the salvation of the world; it has
+not come. All that iron resistance of the German line had been forged
+and organized till it almost conquered, till it almost thwarted, the
+Republic, and it also had been organized for the defence, and, as some
+thought, for the salvation, of the world. Some great good was to have
+come by the storming of that hill, or some great good by the defeat of
+the impetuous charge. Well, the hill was stormed, and (if you will) at
+Leipsic the effort which had stormed it was rolled back. What has
+happened to the High Goddess whom that youth followed, and worshipped as
+they say, and what to the Gods whom their enemies defended? The ridge is
+exactly the same.
+
+
+
+
+Reality
+
+
+A couple of generations ago there was a sort of man going mournfully
+about who complained of the spread of education. He had an ill-ease in
+his mind. He feared that book learning would bring us no good, and he
+was called a fool for his pains. Not undeservedly--for his thoughts were
+muddled, and if his heart was good it was far better than his head. He
+argued badly or he merely affirmed, but he had strong allies (Ruskin was
+one of them), and, like every man who is sincere, there was something in
+what he said; like every type which is numerous, there was a human
+feeling behind him: and he was very numerous.
+
+Now that he is pretty well extinct we are beginning to understand what
+he meant and what there was to be said for him. The greatest of the
+French Revolutionists was right--"After bread, the most crying need of
+the populace is knowledge." But what knowledge?
+
+The truth is that secondary impressions, impressions gathered from books
+and from maps, are valuable as adjuncts to primary impressions (that is,
+impressions gathered through the channel of our senses), or, what is
+always almost as good and sometimes better, the interpreting voice of
+the living man. For you must allow me the paradox that in some
+mysterious way the voice and gesture of a living witness always convey
+something of the real impression he has had, and sometimes convey more
+than we should have received ourselves from our own sight and hearing of
+the thing related.
+
+Well, I say, these secondary impressions are valuable as adjuncts to
+primary impressions. But when they stand absolute and have hardly any
+reference to primary impressions, then they may deceive. When they stand
+not only absolute but clothed with authority, and when they pretend to
+convince us even against our own experience, they are positively undoing
+the work which education was meant to do. When we receive them merely as
+an enlargement of what we know and make of the unseen things of which we
+read, things in the image of the seen, then they quite distort our
+appreciation of the world.
+
+Consider so simple a thing as a river. A child learns its map and knows,
+or thinks it knows, that such and such rivers characterize such and such
+nations and their territories. Paris stands upon the River Seine, Rome
+upon the River Tiber, New Orleans on the Mississippi, Toledo upon the
+River Tagus, and so forth. That child will know one river, the river
+near his home. And he will think of all those other rivers in its image.
+He will think of the Tagus and the Tiber and the Seine and the
+Mississippi--and they will all be the river near his home. Then let him
+travel, and what will he come across? The Seine, if he is from these
+islands, may not disappoint him or astonish him with a sense of novelty
+and of ignorance. It will indeed look grander and more majestic, seen
+from the enormous forest heights above its lower course, than what,
+perhaps, he had thought possible in a river, but still it will be a
+river of water out of which a man can drink, with clear-cut banks and
+with bridges over it, and with boats that ply up and down. But let him
+see the Tagus at Toledo, and what he finds is brown rolling mud, pouring
+solid after the rains, or sluggish and hardly a river after long
+drought. Let him go down the Tiber, down the Valley of the Tiber, on
+foot, and he will retain until the last miles an impression of nothing
+but a turbid mountain torrent, mixed with the friable soil in its bed.
+Let him approach the Mississippi in the most part of its long course and
+the novelty will be more striking still. It will not seem to him a river
+at all (if he be from Northern Europe); it will seem a chance flood. He
+will come to it through marshes and through swamps, crossing a deserted
+backwater, finding firm land beyond, then coming to further shallow
+patches of wet, out of which the tree-stumps stand, and beyond which
+again mud-heaps and banks and groups of reeds leave undetermined, for
+one hundred yards after another, the limits of the vast stream. At last,
+if he has a boat with him, he may make some place where he has a clear
+view right across to low trees, tiny from their distance, similarly half
+swamped upon a further shore, and behind them a low escarpment of bare
+earth. That is the Mississippi nine times out of ten, and to an
+Englishman who had expected to find from his early reading or his maps a
+larger Thames it seems for all the world like a stretch of East Anglian
+flood, save that it is so much more desolate.
+
+The maps are coloured to express the claims of Governments. What do they
+tell you of the social truth? Go on foot or bicycling through the more
+populated upland belt of Algiers and discover the curious mixture of
+security and war which no map can tell you of and which none of the
+geographies make you understand. The excellent roads, trodden by men
+that cannot make a road; the walls as ready loopholed for fighting; the
+Christian church and the mosque in one town; the necessity for and the
+hatred of the European; the indescribable difference of the sun, which
+here, even in winter, has something malignant about it, and strikes as
+well as warms; the mountains odd, unlike our mountains; the forests,
+which stand as it were by hardihood, and seem at war against the
+influence of dryness and the desert winds, with their trees far apart,
+and between them no grass, but bare earth alone.
+
+So it is with the reality of arms and with the reality of the sea. Too
+much reading of battles has ever unfitted men for war; too much talk of
+the sea is a poison in these great town populations of ours which know
+nothing of the sea. Who that knows anything of the sea will claim
+certitude in connexion with it? And yet there is a school which has by
+this time turned its mechanical system almost into a commonplace upon
+our lips, and talks of that most perilous thing, the fortunes of a
+fleet, as though it were a merely numerical and calculable thing! The
+greatest of Armadas may set out and not return.
+
+There is one experience of travel and of the physical realities of the
+world which has been so widely repeated, and which men have so
+constantly verified, that I could mention it as a last example of my
+thesis without fear of misunderstanding. I mean the quality of a great
+mountain.
+
+To one that has never seen a mountain it may seem a full and a fine
+piece of knowledge to be acquainted with its height in feet exactly, its
+situation; nay, many would think themselves learned if they know no more
+than its conventional name. But the thing itself! The curious sense of
+its isolation from the common world, of its being the habitation of awe,
+perhaps the brooding-place of a god!
+
+I had seen many mountains, I had travelled in many places, and I had
+read many particular details in the books--and so well noted them upon
+the maps that I could have re-drawn the maps--concerning the Cerdagne.
+None the less the sight of that wall of the Cerdagne, when first it
+struck me, coming down the pass from Tourcarol, was as novel as though
+all my life had been spent upon empty plains. By the map it was 9000
+feet. It might have been 90,000! The wonderment as to what lay beyond,
+the sense that it was a limit to known things, its savage intangibility,
+its sheer silence! Nothing but the eye seeing could give one all those
+things.
+
+The old complain that the young will not take advice. But the wisest
+will tell them that, save blindly and upon authority, the young cannot
+take it. For most of human and social experience is words to the young,
+and the reality can come only with years. The wise complain of the jingo
+in every country; and properly, for he upsets the plans of statesmen,
+miscalculates the value of national forces, and may, if he is powerful
+enough, destroy the true spirit of armies. But the wise would be wiser
+still if, while they blamed the extravagance of this sort of man, they
+would recognize that it came from that half-knowledge of mere names and
+lists which excludes reality. It is maps and newspapers that turn an
+honest fool into a jingo.
+
+It is so again with distance, and it is so with time. Men will not grasp
+distance unless they have traversed it, or unless it be represented to
+them vividly by the comparison of great landscapes. Men will not grasp
+historical time unless the historian shall be at the pains to give them
+what historians so rarely give, the measure of a period in terms of a
+human life. It is from secondary impressions divorced from reality that
+a contempt for the past arises, and that the fatal illusion of some
+gradual process of betterment of "progress" vulgarizes the minds of men
+and wastes their effort. It is from secondary impressions divorced from
+reality that a society imagines itself diseased when it is healthy, or
+healthy when it is diseased. And it is from secondary impressions
+divorced from reality that springs the amazing power of the little
+second-rate public man in those modern machines that think themselves
+democracies. This last is a power which, luckily, cannot be greatly
+abused, for the men upon whom it is thrust are not capable even of abuse
+upon a great scale. It is none the less marvellous in its falsehood.
+
+Now you will say at the end of this, Since you blame so much the power
+for distortion and for ill residing in our great towns, in our system of
+primary education and in our papers and in our books, what remedy can
+you propose? Why, none, either immediate or mechanical. The best and the
+greatest remedy is a true philosophy, which shall lead men always to ask
+themselves what they really know and in what order of certitude they
+know it; where authority actually resides and where it is usurped. But,
+apart from the advent, or rather the recapture, of a true philosophy by
+a European society, two forces are at work which will always bring
+reality back, though less swiftly and less whole. The first is the poet,
+and the second is Time.
+
+Sooner or later Time brings the empty phrase and the false conclusion up
+against what is; the empty imaginary looks reality in the face and the
+truth at once conquers. In war a nation learns whether it is strong or
+no, and how it is strong and how weak; it learns it as well in defeat as
+in victory. In the long processes of human lives, in the succession of
+generations, the real necessities and nature of a human society destroy
+any false formula upon which it was attempted to conduct it. Time must
+always ultimately teach.
+
+The poet, in some way it is difficult to understand (unless we admit
+that he is a seer), is also very powerful as the ally of such an
+influence. He brings out the inner part of things and presents them to
+men in such a way that they cannot refuse but must accept it. But how
+the mere choice and rhythm of words should produce so magical an effect
+no one has yet been able to comprehend, and least of all the poets
+themselves.
+
+
+
+
+On the Decline of the Book: [And Especially of the Historical Book]
+
+
+It is an interesting speculation by what means the Book lost its old
+position in this country. This is not only an interesting speculation,
+but one which nearly concerns a vital matter. For if men fall into the
+habit of neglecting true books in an old and traditional civilization,
+the inaccuracy of their judgments and the illusions to which they will
+be subject, must increase.
+
+To take but one example: history. The less the true historical book is
+read and the more men depend upon ephemeral statement, the more will
+legend crystallize, the harder will it be to destroy in the general mind
+some comforting lie, and the great object-lesson of politics (which is
+an accurate knowledge of how men have acted in the past) will become at
+last unknown.
+
+There are many, especially among younger men, who would contest the
+premiss upon which all this is founded. They may point out, for
+instance, that the actual number of bound books bought in a given time
+at present is much larger than ever it was before. They may point out
+again, and with justice, that the proportion of the population which
+reads books of any sort, though perhaps not larger than it was three
+hundred years ago, is very much larger than it was one hundred years
+ago. And it may further be affirmed with truth that the range of
+subjects now covered by books produced and sold is much wider than ever
+it was before.
+
+All this is true; and yet it is also true that the Book as a factor in
+our civilization has not only declined but has almost disappeared. Were
+many more dogs to be possessed in England than are now possessed, but
+were they to be all mongrels, among which none could be found capable of
+retrieving, or of following a fox or a hare with any discipline, one
+would have a right to say that the dog as a factor of our civilization
+had declined. Were many more men in England able to ride horses more or
+less, but were the number of those who rode constantly and for pleasure
+enormously to diminish, and were the new millions who could just manage
+to keep on horseback to prefer animals without spirit on which they
+would feel safe, one would have a right to say that the horse was
+declining as a factor in our civilization; and this is exactly what has
+happened with the Book.
+
+The excellence of a book and its value as a book depend upon two
+factors, which are usually, though not always, united in varied
+proportions: first, that it should put something of value to the reader,
+whether of value as a discovery and an enlargement of wisdom or of value
+as a new emphasis laid upon old and sound morals; secondly, that this
+thing added or renewed in human life should be presented in such a
+manner as to give permanent aesthetic pleasure.
+
+That is not a first-rate book which, while it is admirably written,
+teaches something false or something evil; nor is that a first-rate book
+which, though it discover a completely new thing, or emphasize the most
+valuable department of morals, is so constructed as to be unreadable.
+Now it will not be denied that as far as these two factors are
+concerned--and I repeat they are almost always found in combination--the
+position of the Book has dwindled almost to nothingness. One could give
+examples of almost every kind: one could show how poetry, no matter how
+appreciated or praised, no longer sells. One could show--and this is one
+of the worst signs of all--how men will buy by the hundred thousand
+anything at all which has the hall mark of an established reputation,
+quite careless as to their love of it or their appetite for it. One
+could further show how more than one book of permanent value in English
+life has been discovered in our generation outside England, and has been
+as it were thrust upon the English public by foreign opinion.
+
+But for my purpose it will be sufficient to take one very important
+branch which I can claim to have watched with some care, and that is the
+branch of History.
+
+It may be said with truth that in our generation no single first-rate
+piece of history has enjoyed an appreciable sale. That is not true of
+France, it is not true of the United States, it is not even true of
+Germany in her intellectual decline, but it is true of England.
+
+History is an excellent test. No man will read history, at least history
+of an instructive sort, unless he is a man who can read a book, and
+desires to possess one. To read History involves not only some permanent
+interest in things not immediately sensible, but also some permanent
+brain-work in the reader; for as one reads history one cannot, if one is
+an intelligent being, forbear perpetually to contrast the lessons it
+teaches with the received opinions of our time. Again, History is
+valuable as an example in the general thesis I am maintaining, because
+no good history can be written without a great measure of hard work. To
+make a history at once accurate, readable, useful, and new, is probably
+the hardest of all literary efforts; a man writing such history is
+driving more horses abreast in his team than a man writing any other
+kind of literary matter. He must keep his imagination active; his style
+must be not only lucid, but also must arrest the reader; he must
+exercise perpetually a power of selection which plays over innumerable
+details; he must, in the midst of such occupations, preserve unity of
+design, as much as must the novelist or the playwright; and yet with all
+this there is not a verb, an adjective or a substantive which, if it
+does not repose upon established evidence, will not mar the particular
+type of work on which he is engaged.
+
+As an example of what I mean, consider two sentences: The first is taken
+from the 432nd page of that exceedingly unequal publication, the
+_Cambridge History of the French Revolution_; the second I have
+made up on the spur of the moment; both deal with the Battle of
+Wattignies. The "Cambridge History" version runs as follows:--
+
+On October 15 the relieving force, 50,000 strong, attacked the Austrian
+covering force at Wattignies; the battle raged all that day and was most
+furious on the right, in front of the village of Wattignies, which was
+taken and lost three times; on the 17th the French expected another
+general engagement but the enemy had drawn off.
+
+There are here five great positive errors in six lines. The French were
+not 50,000 strong, the attack on the 15th was not on Wattignies, but on
+Dourlers; Wattignies was not taken and lost three times; the fight of
+the 15th was _least_ pressed on the right (harder on the left and
+hardest in the centre) and no one--not the least recruit--expected
+Coburg to come _back_ on the 17th. Why, he had crossed the Sambre
+at every point the day before! As for negative errors, or errors of
+omission, they are capital, and the chief is that the victory was won on
+the second day, the 16th, of which no mention is made.
+
+Now contrast such a sentence with the following:--
+
+On October 15th the relieving force, 42,000 strong, attacked the
+Austrian centre at Dourlers, and made demonstrations upon its wings; the
+attack upon Dourlers (which village had been taken and lost three times)
+having failed, upon the following day, October 16th, the extreme left of
+the enemy's position at Wattignies was attacked and carried; the enemy
+thus outflanked was compelled to retreat, and Maubeuge was relieved the
+same evening.
+
+In the first sentence (which bears the hall mark of the University)
+every error that could possibly be made in so few lines has been made.
+The numbers are wrong; the nature of the fighting is misstated; the
+village in the centre is confused with that on the extreme right; the
+critical second day is altogether omitted, and every portion of the
+sentence, verb, adjective, and substantive, is either directly
+inaccurate or indirectly conveys an inaccurate impression. The second
+sentence, bald in style and uninteresting in presentation as the first,
+has the merit of telling the truth. But--and here is the point--it would
+be impossible to criticize the first sentence unless someone had read up
+the battle, and to read up that battle one has to depend on five or six
+documents, some unpublished (like much of Jourdan's Memoirs), some of
+them involving a visit to Maubeuge itself, some, like Pierrat's book,
+very difficult to obtain (for it is neither in the British Museum nor in
+the Bodleian) some few the writings of contemporary eyewitnesses, and
+yet themselves demonstrably inaccurate. All these must be read and
+collated, and if possible the actual ground of the battle visited,
+before the first simple inaccurate sentence can be properly criticized
+or the second bald but accurate sentence framed. None of these
+authorities can have been so much as heard of by the official historian
+I have quoted.
+
+It would be redundant to press the point. Most readers know well enough
+what labour the just writing of history involves, and how excellent a
+type it is of that "making of a book" which art is, as I have said,
+imperilled by apathy at the present day.
+
+Consider for a moment who were those that purchased historical works in
+this country in the past. There were, first of all, the landed gentry.
+In almost every great country-house you will find a good old library,
+and that good old library you will discover to be, as a rule, most
+valuable and most complete in what concerns the end of the eighteenth
+and the beginning of the nineteenth centuries. A very large proportion
+of history, and history of the best sort, is to be found upon those
+shelves. The standard dwindles, though it is fairly well maintained
+during the first two-thirds of the nineteenth century. Then--as a
+rule--it abruptly comes to an end. One may take as a sort of bourne, the
+two great books Macaulay's _History_ and Kinglake's, for an earlier
+and a later limit. Most of these libraries contain Macaulay; some few
+Kinglake; hardly one possesses later works of value.
+
+It may be urged in defence of the buyer that no later works of value
+exist. Put so broadly, the statement is erroneous; but the truth which
+it contains is in itself dependent upon the lack of public support for
+good historical work. When there is a fortune for the man who writes in
+accordance with whatever form of self-appreciation happens for the
+moment to be popular, while a steady view and an accurate presentation
+of the past can find no sale, then that steady view and that accurate
+presentation cannot be pursued save by men who are wealthy, or by men
+who are endowed, but even wealthy men will hesitate to write what they
+know will not be read, and for history no one is endowed.
+
+Our Universities were framed for many purposes, of which the cultivation
+of learning was but one; in that one field, however, a particular form
+of learning was taken very seriously, and was pursued with admirable
+industry; I mean an acquaintance with and an imitation of the Latin and
+Greek Classics.
+
+It was a particular character of this form of learning that proficiency
+in it would lead to undisputed honours. The scholar recognized the
+superior scholar; the field of inquiry was by convention highly limited;
+it had been thoroughly explored; discussion upon such results as were
+doubtful did not involve a difference in general philosophy.
+
+With history it is otherwise. Whether such things have or have not
+happened, and, above all, if they have happened, the _way_ in which
+they have happened, is to our general judgment of contemporary men what
+evidence is to a criminal trial. Facts won't give way. If, therefore,
+there are vested interests, moral or material, to be maintained, history
+is, of all the sciences or arts, that one most likely to suffer at the
+hands of those connected with such interests. Even where the truth will
+be of advantage to those interests, they are afraid of it, because the
+thorough discussion of it will involve the presentation of views
+disadvantageous to privilege.
+
+Where, as is much more commonly the case (for vested interests, moral or
+material, are unreasoning and selfish things), the truth would certainly
+offend them, they are the more determined to prevent its appearance.
+
+But of all vested interests none deal with such assured incomes, none
+are so immune by influence and tradition as the Universities.
+
+Now, if the rich man has no temptation by way of popular fame, and the
+poor man no opportunity for endowment, in any branch of letters, there
+remains but a third form of support, and that is the support of the
+buying public. And the public will not buy.
+
+I will suppose the case of a popular novelist, who in a few months shall
+write, not an historical novel, but a piece of so-called history. He
+shall call it, for instance, "England's Heroes." Before you tell me his
+name, or what he has written, I can tell you here and now what he will
+write on any number of points. He will call Hastings Senlac. In the
+Battle of Hastings he will make out Harold to be the head of a highly
+patriotic nation called the "Anglo-Saxons"; they shall be desperately
+defending themselves against certain French-speaking Scandinavians
+called Normans. He will deplore the defeat, but will say it was all for
+the best. Magna Charta he will have signed at Runnymede--probably he
+will have it drawn up there as well. He will translate the most famous
+clause by the modern words "Judgment of his peers" and "law of the
+land." He will represent the Barons as having behind them the voice of
+the whole nation--and so forth. When he comes to Crcy he will make
+Edward III speak English. When he comes to Agincourt he will leave his
+readers as ignorant as himself upon the boundaries, numbers and power of
+the Burgundian faction. In the Civil War Oliver Cromwell will be an
+honest and not very rich gentleman of the middle-classes. The
+Parliamentary force will be that of the mass of the people against a few
+gallant but wicked aristocrats who follow the perfidious Charles. He
+will make no mention of the pay of the Ironsides. James II will be
+driven out by a popular uprising, in which the great Churchill will play
+an honourable and chivalric part. The loss of the American Colonies will
+be deplored, and will be ascribed to the folly of attempting to tax men
+of "Anglo-Saxon" blood, unless you grant them representation. The
+Continental troops will be treated as the descendants of Englishmen! The
+guns at Saratoga will be Colonial guns; the incapacity of the Fleet will
+not be touched upon. Here again, as in the case of the Battle of
+Hastings, all will be for the best, and there will be a few touching
+words upon the passionate affection now felt for Great Britain by the
+inhabitants of the United States. The defensive genius of Wellington
+will be represented as that of a general particularly great in the
+offensive. Talavera will be a victory. The Spanish Auxiliaries in the
+Peninsula will be contemptible. No guns will be abandoned before Corua,
+but what are left at Corua will be mentioned and re-embarked. The
+character of Nelson will receive a curious sort of glutinous praise; Emma
+Hamilton, not Naples, will be the stain upon his name; the Battle of
+Trafalgar will prevent the invasion of England.
+
+This is a lengthy but not unjust description of what this gentleman
+would write; it is rubbish from beginning to end. It would sell, because
+every word of it would foster in the reader the illusion that the
+community of which he is a member is invincible under all circumstances,
+that effort and self-denial and suffering are spared him alone out of
+all mankind, and that a little pleasurable excitement, preferably that
+to be obtained from his favourite game, is the chief factor in military
+success.
+
+I have omitted Alfred. Alfred in such a book will be the "teller of
+truth"--but he will not go to Mass.
+
+Given that the name is sufficiently well known, there is hardly any
+limit to the sale of a book modelled upon these lines. Contrast with its
+fate the fate of a book, written no matter how powerfully, that should
+insist upon truths, no matter how valuable to the English people at the
+present moment. These truths need by no means be unpleasant, though at
+the present moment an unpleasant truth is undoubtedly more valuable than
+a pleasant one. They could make as much or more for the glory of the
+country; they could be at any rate of infinitely greater service, but
+they would not be received, simply because they would compel close
+attention and brain-work in the reader as well as in the writer of them.
+An established groove would have to be abandoned; to use a strong
+metaphor, the reader would have to get out of bed, and that is what the
+modern reader will not do. Tell him that the men who fought on either
+side at Hastings' plain cared nothing for national but everything for
+feudal allegiance; that _lex terrae_ means the local custom of
+ordeal and not the "law of the land"; tell him that _judicium
+parium_ means the right of a noble to be judged by nobles, and has
+nothing to do with the jury system; tell him that Magna Charta was
+certainly drawn up before the meeting at Runnymede; that not until the
+Lancastrians did English kings speak English; that Oliver Cromwell owed
+his position to the enormous wealth of the Williamses, of whom had he
+not been a cadet, he would never have been known; tell him that the
+whole force of the Parliament resided in the squires and that the Civil
+Wars turned England into an oligarchy; tell him the exact truth about
+the infamy of Churchill; tell him what proportion of Englishmen during
+the American War were taxed without being represented; tell him what
+proportion of Washington's troops were of English blood; tell him any
+one illuminating and true thing about the history of his country, and
+the novelty will so offend him that a direct insult would have pleased
+him better.
+
+What is true of history is true of nearly all the rest, and the upshot
+of the whole matter is that there is not, either in private patronage or
+in popular demand, a chance for history in modern England.
+
+You can have excellent literature in journalism, and it will be widely
+read. I would say more--I would say that the better literature a
+newspaper admits, the more widely will that paper be read, or at any
+rate the greater will its influence be on modern Englishmen. But when it
+comes to the kneaded and wrought matter of the true Book, neither the
+public nor the centres of learning will have any of it, and the last
+medium which might make it possible, patronage, has equally disappeared,
+because the modern patron does not work in the daylight in the full view
+of the nation and with its full approbation, and he is no longer a public
+man (though he is richer than ever he was before). His patronage,
+therefore, though it is still considerable, is expended in satisfying his
+private demand. Private architects build him doubtful castles, private
+collectors get him manuscripts and jewels, but Letters, which are a public
+thing, he can no longer command.
+
+It might be asked, by way of conclusion, whether there is any remedy for
+this state of things. There is none. Its prime cause resides in a
+certain attitude of the national mind, and this kind of broadly held
+philosophy is not changed save by slow preaching or external shock. As
+long as modern England remains what we know it, and follows the lines of
+change which we see it following, the Book will necessarily decline more
+and more, and we must make up our minds to it.
+
+Of other evil tendencies of our time, one can say of some that they are
+obviously mending, of others that such and such an applicable remedy
+would mend them. Our public architecture is certainly getting better; so
+is our painting. Our gross and increasing contempt of self-government
+(to take quite another sphere) is curable by one or two simple reforms
+in procedure, registration, the expenses of election, and voting at the
+polls, which would restore the House of Commons to life, and give it
+power to express English will. But a regard for, a cultivation of, above
+all a sinking of wealth upon, English Letters is past praying for. We
+must wait until the tide changes; we can do nothing, and the waiting
+will be long.
+
+
+
+
+Jos Maria de Heredia
+
+
+The French have a phrase "la beaut du verbe" by which they would
+express a something in the sound and in the arrangement of words which
+supplements whatever mere thought those words were intended to express.
+It is evident that no definition of this beauty can be given, but it is
+also evident that without it letters would not exist. How it arises we
+cannot explain, yet the process is familiar to us in everything we do
+when we are attempting to fulfil an impulse towards whatever is good. An
+integration not of many small things but of an infinite series of
+infinitely small things build up the perfect gesture, the perfect line,
+the perfect intonation, and the perfect phrase. So indeed are all things
+significant built up: every tone of the voice, every arrangement of
+landscape or of notes in music which awake us and reveal the things
+beyond. But when one says that this is especially true of perfect
+expression one means that sometimes, rarely, the integration achieves a
+steadfast and sufficient formula. The mind is satisfied rather than
+replete. It asks no more; and if it desires to enjoy further the
+pleasure such completion has given it, it does not attempt to prolong or
+to develop the pleasure under which it has leapt; it is content to wait
+a while and to return, knowing well that it has here a treasure laid up
+for ever.
+
+All this may be expressed in two words: the Classical Spirit. That is
+Classic of which it is true that the enjoyment is sufficient when it is
+terminated and that in the enjoyment of it an entity is revealed.
+
+When men propose to bequeath to their fellows work of so supreme a kind
+it is to be noticed that they choose by instinct a certain material.
+
+It has been said that the material in which he works affects the
+achievement of the artist: it is truer to say that it helps him. A man
+designing a sculpture in marble knows very well what he is about to do.
+A man attempting the exact and restrained rendering of tragedy upon the
+stage does not choose the stage as one among many methods, he is drawn
+to it: he needs it; the audience, the light, the evening, the very slope
+of the boards, all minister to his efforts. And so a man determined to
+produce the greatest things in verse takes up by nature exact and
+thoughtful words and finds that their rhythm, their combination, and
+their sound turn under his hand to something greater than he himself at
+first intended; he becomes a creator, and his name is linked with the
+name of a masterpiece. The material in which he has worked is hard; the
+price he has paid is an exceeding effect; the reward he has earned is
+permanence.
+
+Jos de Heredia was an artist of this kind. The mass of the verse he
+produced, or rather published, was small. It might have been very large.
+It is not (as a foolish modern affectation will sometimes pretend)
+necessary to the endurance or even the excellence of work that it should
+be the product of exceptional moments; nor is it even true (as the wise
+Ancients believed) that great length of time must always mature it. But
+the small volume of Heredia's legacy to European letters does argue this
+at least in the poet, that he passionately loved perfection and that,
+finding himself able to achieve it (for perfection can be achieved) but
+now and then, he chose only to be remembered by the contentment which,
+now and then, his own genius had given him.
+
+He worked upon verse as men work upon the harder metals; all that he did
+was chiselled very finely, then sawn to an exact configuration and at
+last inlaid, for when he published his completed volume it is true to
+say that every piece fitted in with the sound of one before and of one
+after. He was careful in the heroic degree.
+
+His blood and descent are worthy of notice. He was a Spaniard,
+inheriting from the first Conquerors of the New World, nor was it
+remarkable to those who have received a proper enthusiasm for the
+classical spirit that the energy and even the violence natural to such a
+lineage should express themselves in the coldest and the most exalted
+form when, for the second time, a member of the family attempted verse.
+It is in the essence of that spirit that it alone can dare to be
+disciplined. It never doubts the motive power that will impel it; it is
+afraid, if anything, of an excess of power, and consciously imposes upon
+itself the limits which give it form.
+
+Heredia in his person expressed the activity which impelled him, for he
+was strong, brown, erect, a rapid walker, and a man whose voice was
+perpetually modulated in resonant and powerful tones. In his last years
+during his administration of the Library at the Arsenal this vitality of
+his took on an aspect of good nature very charming and very fruitful.
+His organization of the place was thorough, his knowledge of the readers
+intimate. He refused the manuscripts of none, he advised, laughed, and
+consoled. His criticism was sure. Several, notably Marcel Prevost, were
+launched by his authority. The same deep security of literary judgment
+which had permitted him to chastise and to perfect his impeccable
+sonnets into their final form permitted him also to hold up before his
+eyes, grasp, and judge the work of every other man.
+
+His frailty, as must always be the frailty of such men, was
+fastidiousness. The same sensitive consciousness which is said to have
+all but lost us the Aeneid, and which certainly all but lost us the
+Apologia, dominated his otherwise vigorous soul. It is more than forty
+years since his first verse, written just upon achieving his majority,
+appeared in the old _Revue de Paris_ and in the _Revue des Deux
+Mondes_. It was not till 1893 that he collected in one volume the
+scattered sonnets of his youth and middle age: the collection won him
+somewhat tardily his chair in the Academy. There is irony in the
+reminiscence that the man he defeated in that election was Zola.
+
+All the great men who saluted his advent are dead. Thophile Gautier,
+who first established his fame; Hugo, who addressed to him, perhaps,
+that vigorous appeal in which strict labour is deified, and the medal
+and the marble bust are shown to outlive the greatest glories, are
+sometimes quoted as the last among the great French writers.
+
+The immediate future will show that the stream of French excellence in
+this department, as in any other of human activity, is full, deep, and
+steady. The work of Heredia will help to prove it. He was a Spaniard,
+and a Colonial Spaniard. No other nation, perhaps, except the modern
+French, so inherit the romantic appetite of the later Roman Empire as to
+be able to mould and absorb every exterior element of excellence. It is
+remarkable that at the same moment Paris contemplated the funeral of the
+Italian de Brazza and the death of the Cuban Heredia. It is probable
+that those of us who are still young will live to see either name at the
+head of a new tradition. Heredia proved it possible not so much to
+imitate as to recapture the secure tradition of an older time. Perhaps
+the truest generalization that can be made with regard to the French
+people is to say that they especially in Western Europe (whose quality
+it is ever to transform itself but never to die) discover new springs of
+vitality after every period of defeat and aridity which they are
+compelled to cross. Heredia will prove in the near future a capital
+example of this power. He will increase silently in reputation until we,
+in old age, shall be surprised to find our sons and grandsons taking him
+for granted and speaking of him as one speaks of the Majores, of the
+permanent lights of poetry.
+
+
+
+
+Normandy and the Normans
+
+
+There is no understanding a country unless one gets to know the nature
+of its sub-units. In some way not easy to comprehend, impossible to
+define, and yet very manifest, each of the great national organisms of
+which Christendom is built up is itself a body of many regions whose
+differences and interaction endow it with a corporate life. No one could
+understand the past of England who did not grasp the local genius of the
+counties--Lancashire, cut off eastward by the Pennines, southward by the
+belt of marsh, with no natural entry save by the gate of Stockport;
+Sussex, which was and is a bishopric and a kingdom; Kent, Devon, the
+East Anglian meres. No one could (or does) understand modern England who
+does not see its sub-units to have become by now the great industrial
+towns, or who fails to seize the spirit of each group of such
+towns--with London lying isolated in the south, a negative to the rest.
+
+France is built of such sub-units: it is the peculiarity of French
+development that these are not small territories mainly of an average
+extent with government answerable in a long day's ride to one centre,
+such as most English counties are; nor city States such as form the
+piles upon which the structure of Italy has been raised; nor kingdoms
+such as coalesced to reform the Spanish people; but _provinces_,
+differing greatly in area, from little plains enclosed, like the
+Rousillon, to great stretches of landscape succeeding landscape like the
+Bourbonnais or the Prigord.
+
+The real continuity with an immemorial past which inspires all Gallic
+things is discoverable in this arrangement of Gaul. At the first glance
+one might imagine a French province to be a chance growth of the feudal
+ties and of the Middle Ages. A further effort of scholarship will prove
+it essentially Roman. An intimate acquaintance with its customs and with
+the site of its strongholds, coupled with a comparison of the most
+recent and most fruitful hypotheses of historians, will convince you
+that it is earlier than the Roman conquest; it is tribal, or the home of
+a group of cognate tribes, and its roots are lost in prehistory. So it
+is with Normandy.
+
+This vast territory--larger (I think) than all North England from the
+Humber to Cheviot and from Chester to the Solway--has never formed a
+nation. It is typical of the national idea in France that Normandy
+should have "held" of the political centre of the country, probably
+since the first Gallic confederations were formed, certainly since the
+organization of the Empire. It is equally typical of the local life of a
+French province that, thus dependent, Normandy should have strictly
+preserved its manner and its spirit, and should have readily made war
+upon the Crown and resisted, as it still resists and will perhaps for
+ever, the centralizing forces of the national temper.
+
+If you will travel day after day, and afoot, westward across the length
+of Normandy, you will have, if you are a good walker, a fortnight's
+task ahead of you; even if you are walking for a wager, a week's. It is
+the best way in which to possess a knowledge of that great land, and my
+advice would be to come in from the Picards over the bridge of Aumale
+across the little River Bresle (which is the boundary of Normandy to the
+east), and to go out by way of Pontorson, there crossing into Brittany
+over the little River Couesnon, which is the boundary of Normandy upon
+the west and beyond which lie the Bretons. In this way will you be best
+acquainted with the sharp differentiation of the French provinces
+passing into Normandy from Picardy, brick-built, horse-breeding, and
+slow, passing out of Normandy into the desolation and dreams of
+Brittany, and having known between the one and the other the chalk
+streams, the day-long beechen forests, the valley pastures, and the
+flamboyant churches of the Normans. You will do well to go by
+Neufchtel, where the cheese is made, and by Rouen, then by Lisieux to
+Falaise, where the Conqueror was born, and thence by Vive to Avranches
+and so to the Breton border, taking care to choose the forests between
+one town and another for your road, since these many and deep
+woods--much wider than any we know in England--are in great part the
+soul of the country.
+
+By this itinerary you will not have taken all you should into view; you
+will not have touched the coast nor seen how Normandy is based upon the
+sea, and you will not have known the Cotentin, which is a little State
+of its own and is the quadrilateral which Normandy thrusts forth into
+the Channel. If you have the leisure, therefore, return by the north.
+Pass through Coutances and Valognes to Cherbourg, thence through Caen
+and Bayeux to the crossing of Seine at Honfleur, and then on by the
+chalk uplands and edges of the cliffs till you reach Eu upon the Bresle
+again. In such a double journey the character of the whole will be
+revealed, and if you have studied the past of the place before starting
+you will find your journey full. Avranches, Coutances, Lisieux, Bayeux,
+Rouen are not chance sites. Their great churches mark the bishoprics;
+the bishoprics in turn were the administrative centres of Rome, and Rome
+chose them because they were the strongholds or the sacred cities each
+of a Gallic tribe. The wealth of the valleys permitted everywhere that
+astonishing richness of detail which marks the stonework in village
+after village; the connexion with England, especially the last connexion
+under Henry V, explains the innumerable churches, splendid even in
+hamlets as are our own. The Bresle and the Couesnon, those little
+streams, are boundaries not of these last few centuries, but of a time
+beyond view; the Romans found them so. Diocletian made them the limits
+of the "Second Lyonesse," "Lugdunensis Secunda," which was the last
+Roman name of the province.
+
+Here and there, near the west especially, you will discover names which
+recall the chief adventure of Normandy, the accident which baptized it
+with its Christian name, the landing of the Scandinavian pirates, the
+thousandth anniversary of which is now being celebrated. They came--we
+cannot tell in what numbers, some thousands--and harried the land. The
+old policy of the Empire, the policy already seven hundred years old,
+was had recourse to; the barbarians were granted settlement,
+inheritance, marriage, and partnership with the Lords of the Villae;
+their chief was permitted to hold local government, to tax and to levy
+men as the administrator of the whole province; but there followed
+something which wherever else the experiment had been tried had not
+followed: something of a new race arose. In Burgundy, in the northeast,
+in Visigothic Aquitaine the slight admixture of foreign blood had not
+changed the people, it was absorbed; the slight admixture of
+Scandinavian blood, coming so much later, in a time so degraded in
+government and therefore so open to natural influence, did change the
+Gallo-Romans of the Second Lyonesse. Few as the newcomers may have been
+in number, the new element transformed the mass, and when a century had
+permitted the union to work and settle, the great soldiers who founded
+us appeared. The Norman lords ordered, surveyed, codified, and ruled.
+They let Europe into England, they organized Sicily, they confirmed the
+New Papacy, they were the framework of the Crusades.
+
+The phenomenon was brief. It lasted little more than a hundred years,
+but it transformed Europe and launched the Middle Ages. When it had
+passed, Normandy stood confirmed for centuries (and is still confirmed)
+in a character of its own. No longer adventurous but mercantile, apt, of
+a resisting courage, sober in thought, leaning upon tradition, not
+imperially but domestically strong: the country of Corneille and of
+Malesherbes, a reflection of that spirit in letters; the conservative
+body of to-day--for in our generation that is the mark of Normandy--and,
+in arms, the recruitment to which Napoleon addressed his short and
+famous order that "the Normans that day should do their duty."
+
+
+
+
+The Old Things
+
+
+Those who travel about England for their pleasure, or, for that matter,
+about any part of Western Europe, rightly associate with such travel the
+pleasure of history; for history adds to a man, giving him, as it were,
+a great memory of things--like a human memory, but stretched over a far
+longer space than that of one human life. It makes him, I do not say
+wise and great, but certainly in communion with wisdom and greatness.
+
+It adds also to the soil he treads, for to this it adds meaning. How
+good it is when you come out of Tewkesbury by the Cheltenham road to
+look upon those fields to the left and know that they are not only
+pleasant meadows, but also the place in which a great battle of the
+mediaeval monarchy was decided, or as you stand by that ferry, which is
+not known enough to Englishmen (for it is one of the most beautiful
+things in England), and look back and see Tewkesbury tower, framed
+between tall trees over the level of the Severn, to see also the Abbey
+buildings in your eye of the mind--a great mass of similar stone with
+solid Norman walls, stretching on hugely to the right of the Minster.
+
+All this historical sense and the desire to marry History with Travel is
+very fruitful and nourishing, but there is another interest, allied to
+it, which is very nearly neglected, and which is yet in a way more
+fascinating and more full of meaning. This interest is the interest in
+such things as lie behind recorded history, and have survived into our
+own times. For underneath the general life of Europe, with its splendid
+epic of great Rome turned Christian, crusading, discovering, furnishing
+the springs of the Renaissance, and flowering at last materially into
+this stupendous knowledge of today, the knowledge of all the Arts, the
+power to construct and to do--underneath all that is the foundation on
+which Europe is built, the stem from which Europe springs; and that stem
+is far, far older than any recorded history, and far, far more vital
+than any of the phenomena which recorded history presents.
+
+Recorded history for this island and for Northern France and for the
+Rhine Valley is a matter of two thousand years; for the Western
+Mediterranean of three; but the things of which I speak are to be
+reckoned in tens of thousands of years. Their interest does not lie only
+nor even chiefly in things that have disappeared. It is indeed a great
+pleasure to rummage in the earth and find polished stones wrought by men
+who came so many centuries before us, and of whose blood we certainly
+are; and it is a great pleasure to find, or to guess that we find, under
+Canterbury the piles of a lake or marsh dwelling, proving that
+Canterbury has been there from all time; and that the apparently
+defenceless Valley City was once chosen as an impregnable site, when the
+water-meadows of the Stour were impassable as marsh, or with difficulty
+passable as a shallow lagoon. And it is delightful to stand on the
+earthwork a few miles west and to say to oneself (as one can say with a
+fair certitude), "Here was the British camp defending the south-east;
+here the tenth legion charged." All these are pleasant, but more
+pleasant, I think, to follow the thing where it actually survives.
+
+Consider the track-ways, for instance. How rich is England in these! No
+other part of Europe will afford the traveller so permanent and so
+fascinating a problem. Elsewhere Rome hardened and straightened every
+barbaric trail until the original line and level disappeared; but in
+this distant province of Britain she could only afford just so much
+energy as made them a foothold for her soldiery; and all over England
+you can go, if you choose, foot by foot, along the ancient roads that
+were made by the men of your blood before they had heard of brick or of
+stone or of iron or of written laws.
+
+I wonder that more men do not set out to follow, let us say, the
+Fosse-Way. There it runs right across Western England from the
+south-west to the north-east in a line direct yet sinuous, characters
+which are the very essence of a savage trail. It is a modern road for
+many miles, and you are tramping, let us say, along the Cotswold on a
+hard metalled modern English highway, with milestones and notices from
+the County Council telling you that the culverts will not bear a
+steam-engine, if so be you were to travel on one. Then suddenly this
+road comes up against a cross-road and apparently ceases, making what
+map draughtsmen call a "T"; but right in the same line you see a gate,
+and beyond it a farm lane, and so you follow. You come to a spinney
+where a ride has been cut through by the woodreeve, and it is all in the
+same line. The Fosse-Way turns into a little path, but you are still on
+it; it curves over a marshy brook-valley, picking out the firm land, and
+as you go you see old stones put there heaven knows how many (or how
+few) generations ago--or perhaps yesterday, for the tradition remains,
+and the country-folk strengthen their wet lands as they have
+strengthened them all these thousands of years; you climb up out of that
+depression, you get you over a stile, and there you are again upon a
+lane. You follow that lane, and once more it stops dead. This time there
+is a field before you. No right of way, no trace of a path, nothing but
+grass rounded into those parallel ridges which mark the modern decay of
+the corn lands and pasture--alas!--taking the place of ploughing. Now
+your pleasure comes in casting about for the trail; you look back along
+the line of the Way; you look forward in the same line till you find
+some indication, a boundary between two parishes, perhaps upon your map,
+or two or three quarries set together, or some other sign, and very soon
+you have picked up the line again.
+
+So you go on mile after mile, and as you tread that line you have in the
+horizons that you see, in the very nature and feel of the soil beneath
+your feet, in the skies of England above you, the ancient purpose and
+soul of this Kingdom. Up this same line went the Clans marching when
+they were called Northward to the host; and up this went slow, creaking
+wagons with the lead of the Mendips or the tin of Cornwall or the gold
+of Wales.
+
+And it is still there; it is still used from place to place as a high
+road, it still lives in modern England. There are some of its peers, as
+for instance the Ermine Street, far more continuous, and affording
+problems more rarely; others like the ridgeway of the Berkshire Downs,
+which Rome hardly touched, and of which the last two thousand years has,
+therefore, made hardly anything; you may spend a delightful day piecing
+out exactly where it crossed the Thames, making your guess at it, and
+wondering as you sit there by Streatley Vicarage whether those islands
+did not form a natural weir below which lay the ford.
+
+The roads are the most obvious things. There are many more; for
+instance, thatch. The same laying of the straw in the same manner, with
+the same art, has continued, we may be certain, from a time long before
+the beginning of history. See how in the Fen Land they thatch with
+reeds, and how upon the Chalk Downs with straw from the Lowlands. I
+remember once being told of a record in a manor, which held of the
+Church and which lay upon the southern slope of the Downs, that so much
+was entered for "straw from the Lowlands": then, years afterwards, when
+I had to thatch a Bethlehem in an orchard underneath tall elms--a
+pleasant place to write in, with the noise of bees in the air--the man
+who came to thatch said to me: "We must have straw from the Lowlands;
+this upland straw is no good for thatching." Immediately when I heard
+him say this there was added to me ten thousand years. And I know
+another place in England, far distant from this, where a man said to me
+that if I wished to cross in a winter mist, as I had determined to do,
+Cross-Fell, that great summit of the Pennines, I must watch the drift of
+the snow, for there was no other guide to one's direction in such
+weather. And I remember another man in a little boat in the North Sea,
+as we came towards the Foreland, talking to me of the two tides, and
+telling me how if one caught the tide all the way up to Long Nose and
+then went round it on the end of the flood, one caught a new tide up
+London river, and so made two tides in one day. He spoke with the same
+pleasure that silly men show when they talk about an accumulation of
+money. He felt wealthy and proud from the knowledge, for by this
+knowledge he had two tides in one day. Now knowledge of this sort is
+older than ten thousand years; and so is the knowledge of how birds fly,
+and of how they call, and of how the weather changes with the moon.
+
+Very many things a man might add to the list that I am making. Dew-pans
+are older than the language or the religion; and the finding of water
+with a stick; and the catching of that smooth animal, the mole; and the
+building of flints into mortar, which if one does it in the old way (as
+you may see at Pevensey) the work lasts for ever, but if you do it in
+any new way it does not last ten years; then there is the knowledge of
+planting during the crescent part of the month, but not before the new
+moon shows; and there is the influence of the moon on cider, and to a
+less extent upon the brewing of ale; and talking of ale, the knowledge
+of how ale should be drawn from the brewing just when a man can see his
+face without mist upon the surface of the hot brew. And there is the
+knowledge of how to bank rivers, which is called "throwing the rives" in
+the South, but in the Fen Land by some other name; and how to bank them
+so that they do not silt, but scour themselves. There are these things
+and a thousand others. All are immemorial.
+
+
+
+
+The Battle of Hastings. Related in the Manner of Oxford and Dedicated
+to that University
+
+
+So careless were the French commanders (or more properly the French
+commander, for the rest were cowed by the bullying swagger of William)
+that the night, which should have been devoted to some sort of
+reconnaissance, if not of a preparation of the ground, was devoted to
+nothing more practical than the religious exercises peculiar to
+foreigners.
+
+Their army, as we have seen, was not drawn from any one land, but it was
+in the majority composed of Normans and Bretons; we can therefore
+understand the extravagant superstition which must bear the blame for
+what followed.
+
+Meanwhile, upon the heights above, the English host calmly prepared for
+battle. Fires were lit each in its appointed place, and at these meat
+was cooked under the stern but kindly eyes of the sergeant-majors. These
+also distributed at an appointed price liquor, of which the British
+soldier is never willing to be deprived, and as the hours advanced
+towards morning, the songs in which our adventurous race has ever
+delighted rose from the heights above the Brede.
+
+The morning was misty, as is often the case over damp and marshy lands
+in the month of October, but the inclemency of the weather, or, to speak
+more accurately, the superfluous moisture precipitated from an already
+saturated atmosphere, was of no effect upon those silent and tenacious
+troops of Harold. It was far other with the so-called "Norman" host, who
+were full of forebodings--only too amply to be justified--of the fate
+that lay before them upon the morrow.
+
+It is curious to contrast the quiet skill and sagacity which marked the
+disposition of Harold with the almost childish simplicity of William's
+plan--if plan it may be called.
+
+The Saxon hosts were drawn along the ridge in a position chosen with
+masterly skill. It afforded (as may still be seen) no dead ground for an
+attacking force and little cover. [Footnote: The Rhododendrons on the
+great lawn are modern.] Their left was arranged _en potence_, their
+right was drawn up in echelon. The centre followed the plan usual at
+that time, reposing upon the wings to its right and left and extended.
+The reserves were, of course, posted behind. Cavalry, as at Omdurman,
+played but a slight role in this typically national action and such
+mounted troops as were present seem to have been intermixed with the
+line in the fashion later known, in the jargon of the service, as "The
+Beggar's Quadrille." The Brigade of Guards is not mentioned in any
+record that I can discover, but was probably set by reversed companies
+in a square perpendicular to the main ravine and a little in front of
+the salient angle which appears upon the map at the point marked A.
+
+The terrain can be clearly determined at the present day in spite of the
+changes that have taken place in the intervening years. It is a fairly
+steep slope of hemispherical contour interspersed with low bushes; the
+summit (upon which now stands our lovely English village of Battle and
+the residence of one of those cultured and leisured men who form the
+framework of our commonwealth) was then but a wild heath.
+
+Harold himself could be distinguished in the centre of the line by his
+handsome features, restrained deportment, and unfailing gentlemanly good
+sense as he spoke to staff officer, orderly, and even groom with
+indefatigable skill.
+
+In spite of the determination observable from a great distance upon the
+faces of the tall Saxon line, William with characteristic lack of
+balance opened the action by ordering a charge uphill with cavalry
+alone; it was a piece of tactics absurdly incongruous and one even he
+would never have attempted had he understood the foe that was before
+him, or the fate to which that foe had doomed him.
+
+The lesson dealt him was as immediate as it was severe. The foreigners
+were thrust headlong down the hill, and a private letter tells us how
+the Men of Kent in particular buffeted the Normans about "as though they
+were boys." But even in the heat of this initial success Harold had the
+self-command to order the retirement upon the main position: and with
+troops such as his the order was equivalent to its execution.
+
+This rude blow would have sufficed for any commander less vain than
+William, but he seems to have lost all judgment in a fit of personal
+vanity and to have ordered a second charge which could not but prove as
+futile as the first, delivered as it was up a perfect glacis
+strengthened by epaulements, reverses and countersunk galvon work and
+one whose natural strength was heightened by the stockade which the
+indomitable energy of Harold's troops had perfected in the early hours
+of the morning. Many of the stakes in this, the reader may note with
+pardonable pride, were of English oak--sharpened at the tip.
+
+William's plan (if plan it may be called) was, as we have seen,
+necessarily futile and was foredoomed to failure. But Harold had no
+intention to let the action bear no more fruit than a tactical victory
+upon this particular field. The brain that had designed the exact
+synchrony of Stamford Bridge and the famous march southward from the
+Humber was of that sort which is only found once in many centuries of
+the history of war and which is (it may be said without boasting)
+peculiar to this island.
+
+Another general would have awaited the second charge with its useless
+butchery and still more useless contest for the barren name of victory.
+Not so Harold. Those commanding, cold grey eyes of his swept the line in
+a comprehensive glance, and though no written record of the detail
+remains, he must know little of the character of the man who does not
+understand that from Harold certainly proceeded the order for what
+followed.
+
+The forces at the centre, which he commanded in person, deftly withdrew
+before the futile gallop of William's cavalry, leaving, with that
+coolness which has ever distinguished our troops, the laggards to their
+fate. At the same moment, and with marvellous precision, the left and
+right were withdrawn from the plateau rapidly and as by magic, and the
+old-fashioned tactics of mere impact (which William of Normandy seems
+seriously to have relied on!) were spent and wasted upon the now
+evacuated summit of the hill.
+
+What followed is famous in history.
+
+The cohesion of the Saxon force and the exactitude and coolness with
+which its great operation was performed is of good augury for the future
+of our country. Though it was now thick night, by no set road and with
+no cumbersome machinery of train and rear-guard, the whole of the vast
+assembly masked itself behind the woodlands of the Weald.
+
+The Norman horsemen, bewildered and fatigued, gazed on the many that had
+fallen in defence of the masking position and wondered whether such
+novel happenings were victory or no, but the army whose concentration
+upon the Thames it was William's whole object to prevent, was already
+miles northward, each unit proceeding by exactly co-ordinated routes
+towards London.
+
+There is perhaps no more difficult task set before soldiers than the
+quiet execution of such a manoeuvre after the heat of a heavy action,
+and none have performed it more magnificently than the veteran troop of
+Harold.
+
+When (luckily) all the orders had been finally distributed a great
+tragedy marred the completeness of the day.
+
+Just before the execution of this masterpiece of strategy, and as the
+autumn sun was sinking, the inevitable price which war demands of all
+its darlings was paid.
+
+Harold himself, the artist of the great victory, fell. But we have no
+reason to believe that his loss retarded the retrograding movement in
+any degree. Men who create as Harold created have not their creations
+spoilt by death.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+The shameful history of the close of the campaign is familiar to every
+schoolboy, and the military historian must be pardoned if he deals with
+a purely civilian blunder in a few brief words.
+
+Parliament interfered--as it always does--with what should have been a
+matter for soldiers alone. Intrigues, bribery, or worse (with which the
+military historian has no concern) ruined what had been, in the field,
+one of the principal achievements of the Saxon arms. And William, who
+could not count to hold his own against regular forces and who was
+astonished to find himself free to retreat precipitately on Dover, was
+still more astonished to find himself accepted a few weeks later after
+an aimless march to the west and north by the politicians--or worse--at
+Berkhampstead. He and England were equally astounded to find that a
+broken and defeated invader could actually be accepted by the intriguers
+at Westminster and crowned King of England as the price of a secret
+bargain.
+
+Such was the fruit of as great and successful an effort as ever Saxon
+soldier made: the Battle of Senlac: for such--as I am now free to
+reveal--was the true name of the field of action.
+
+The ineptitude or avarice of politicians had undone the work of
+soldiers, and it is no wonder that the last of Harold's veterans, who
+retired in disgust to impregnable fortresses in Ely, Arthur's Seat, and
+Pudsey, are recorded to have gnashed their teeth and shed tears of
+indignation at the dispatches from the metropolis. At Crcy they were to
+be avenged.
+
+
+
+
+The Roman Roads in Picardy
+
+
+If a man were asked where he would find upon the map the sharpest
+impress of Rome and of the memories of Rome, and where he would most
+easily discover in a few days on foot the foundations upon which our
+civilization still rests, he might, in proportion to his knowledge of
+history and of Europe, be puzzled to reply. He might say that a week
+along the wall from Tyne to Solway would be the answer; or a week in the
+great Roman cities of Provence with their triumphal arches and their
+vast arenas and their Roman stone cropping out everywhere: in old quays,
+in ruined bridges, in the very pavement of the streets they use to-day,
+and in the columns of their living churches.
+
+Now I was surprised to find myself after many years of dabbling in such
+things, furnishing myself the answer in quite a different place. It was
+in Picardy during the late manoeuvres of the French Army that, in the
+intervals of watching those great buzzing flies, the aeroplanes, and in
+the intervals of long tramps after the regiments or of watching the
+massed guns, the necessity for perpetually consulting the map brought
+home to me for the first time this truth--that Picardy is the
+province--or to be more accurate, Picardy with its marches in the le de
+France, the edge of Normandy and the edge of Flanders--which retains
+to-day the most vivid impress of Rome. For though the great buildings
+are lacking, and the Roman work, which must here have been mainly of
+brick, has crumbled, and though I can remember nothing upstanding and
+patently of the Empire between the gate of Rheims and the frontier of
+Artois, yet one feature--the Roman road--is here so evident, so
+multiple, and so enduring that it makes up for all the rest.
+
+One discovers the old roads upon the map, one after the other, with a
+sort of surprise. The scheme develops before one as one looks, and
+always when one thinks one has completed the web another and yet another
+straight arrow of a line reveals itself across the page.
+
+The map is a sort of palimpsest. A mass of fine modern roads, a whole
+red blur of lanes and local ways, the big, rare black lines of the
+railway--these are the recent writing, as it were; but underneath the
+whole, more and more apparent and in greater and greater numbers as one
+learns to discover them, are the strict, taut lines which Rome stretched
+over all those plains.
+
+There is something most fascinating in noting them, and discovering them
+one after the other.
+
+For they need discovering. No one of them is still in complete use. The
+greater part must be pieced together from lengths of lanes which turn
+into broad roads, and then suddenly sink again into footpaths, rights of
+way, or green forest rides.
+
+Often, as with our rarer Roman roads in England, all trace of the thing
+disappears under the plough or in the soft crossings of the river
+valleys; one marks them by the straightness of their alignment, by the
+place names which lie upon them (the repeated name Estree, for instance,
+which is like the place name "street" upon the Roman roads of England);
+by the recovery of them after a gap; by the discoveries which local
+archaeology has made.
+
+Different men have different pastimes, and I dare say that most of those
+who read this will wonder that such a search should be a pastime for any
+man, but I confess it is a pastime for me. To discover these things, to
+recreate them, to dig out on foot the base upon which two thousand years
+of history repose, is the most fascinating kind of travel.
+
+And then, the number of them! You may take an oblong of country with
+Maubeuge at one corner, Pontoise at another, Yvetot and some frontier
+town such as Fumes for the other two corners, and in that stretch of
+country a hundred and fifty miles by perhaps two hundred, you can build
+up a scheme of Roman ways almost as complete as the scheme of the great
+roads to-day.
+
+That one which most immediately strikes the eye is the great line which
+darts upon Rouen from Paris.
+
+Twice broken at the crossing of the river valleys, and lost altogether
+in the last twelve miles before the capital of Normandy, it still stands
+on the modern map a great modern road with every aspect of purpose and
+of intention in its going.
+
+From Amiens again they radiate out, these roads, some, like the way to
+Cambray, in use every mile; some, like the old marching road to the sea,
+to the Portus Itius, to Boulogne, a mere lane often wholly lost and
+never used as a great modern road. This was the way along which the
+French feudal cavalry trailed to the disaster of Crcy, and just beyond
+Crcy it goes and loses itself in that exasperating but fascinating
+manner which is the whole charm of Roman roads wherever the hunter finds
+them. You may lay a ruler along this old forgotten track, all the way
+past Domqueur, Novelle (which is called Novelle-en-Chausse, that is
+Novelle on the paved road), on past Estre (where from the height you
+overlook the battlefield of Crcy), and that ruler so lying on your map
+points right at Boulogne Harbour, thirty odd miles away--and in all
+those thirty odd remaining miles I could not find another yard of it.
+But what an interest! What a hobby to develop! There is nothing like it
+in all the kinds of hunting that have ever been invented for filling up
+the whole of the mind. True, you will get no sauce of danger, but, on
+the other hand, you will hunt for weeks and weeks, and you will come
+back year after year and go on with your hunting, and sometimes you
+actually find--which is more than can be said for hunting some animals
+in the Weald.
+
+How was it lost, this great main road of Europe, this marching road of
+the legions, linking up Gaul and Britain, the way that Hadrian went, and
+the way down which the usurper Constantine III must have come during
+that short adventure of his which lends such a romance to the end of the
+Empire? One cannot conceive why it should have disappeared. It is a
+sunken way down the hillside across the light railway which serves
+Crcy, it gets vaguer and vaguer, for all the world like those ridges
+upon the chalk that mark the Roman roads in England, and then it is
+gone. It leaves you pointing, I say, at that distant harbour, thirty odd
+miles off, but over all those miles it has vanished. The ghost of the
+legends cannot march along it any more. In one place you find a few
+yards of it about three miles south and east of Montreuil. It may be
+that the little lane leading into Estre shows where it crossed the
+valley of the Cauche, but it is all guesswork, and therefore very proper
+to the huntsman.
+
+Then there is that unbroken line by which St. Martin came, I think, when
+he rode into Amiens, and at the gate of the town cut his cloak in two to
+cover the beggar. It drives across country for Roye and on to Noyon, the
+old centre of the Kings. It is a great modern road all the way, and it
+stretches before you mile after mile after mile, until suddenly, without
+explanation and for no reason, it ends sharply, like the life of a man.
+It ends on the slopes of the hill called Choisy, at the edge of the wood
+which is there. And seek as you will, you will never find it again.
+
+From that road also, near Amiens, branches out another, whose object was
+St. Quentin, first as a great high road, lost in the valley of the
+Somme, a lesser road again, still in one strict alignment, it reaches on
+to within a mile of Vermand, and there it stops dead. I do not think
+that between Vermand and St. Quentin you will find it. Go out
+north-westward from Vermand and walk perhaps five miles, or seven: there
+is no trace of a road, only the rare country lanes winding in and out,
+and the open plough of the rolling land. But continue by your compass so
+and you will come (suddenly again and with no apparent reason for its
+abrupt origin) upon the dead straight line that ran from the capital of
+the Nervii, three days' march and more, and pointing all the time
+straight at Vermand.
+
+And so it is throughout the province and its neighbourhood. Here and
+there, as at Bavai, a great capital has decayed. Here and there (but
+more rarely), a town wholly new has sprung up since the Romans, but the
+plan of the country is the same as that which they laid down, and the
+roads as you discover them, mark it out and establish it. The armies
+that you see marching to-day in their manoeuvres follow for half a
+morning the line which was taken by the Legions.
+
+
+
+
+The Reward of Letters
+
+
+It has often been remarked that while all countries in the world possess
+some sort of literature, as Iceland her Sagas, England her daily papers,
+France her prose writers and dramatists, and even Prussia her railway
+guides, one nation and one alone, the Empire of Monomotopa, is utterly
+innocent of this embellishment or frill.
+
+No traveller records the existence of any Monomotopan quill-driver; no
+modern visitor to that delightful island has come across a
+_littrateur_ whether in the worse or in the best hotels; and such
+reading as the inhabitants enjoy is entirely confined to works imported
+by large steamers from the neighbouring Antarctic Continent.
+
+The causes of this singular and happy state of affairs were unknown
+(since the common histories did not mention them) until the recent
+discovery by Mr. Paley, the chief authority upon Monomotopan hieratic
+script, of a very ancient inscription which clearly sets forth the whole
+business.
+
+It seems that an Emperor of Monomotopa, whose date can be accurately
+fixed by internal evidence to lie after the universal deluge and before
+the building of the Pyramid of Cheops, was, upon his accession to the
+throne, particularly concerned with the just repartition of taxes among
+his beloved subjects.
+
+It would seem (if we are to trust the inscription) that in a past still
+more remote the taxes were so light that even the richest men would meet
+them promptly and without complaining, but this was at a period when the
+enemies of Monomotopa were at once distant and actively engaged in
+quarrelling among themselves. With sickening treachery these distant
+rival nations had determined to produce wealth and to live in amity, so
+that it was incumbent upon the Monomotopans not only to build ships, but
+actually to provide an army, and at last (what broke the camel's back)
+to establish fortifications of a very useless but expensive sort upon a
+dozen points of their Imperial coast.
+
+Under the increasing strain the old fiscal system broke down. The poor
+were clearly embarrassed, as might be seen in their emaciated visages
+and from the terrible condition of their boots. The rich had reached the
+point after which it was inconvenient to them to pay any more. The
+middle classes were spending the greater part of their time in devising
+methods by which the exorbitant and intempestive demands of the
+collectors could be either evaded or, more rarely, complied with. In a
+word, a new and juster system of taxation was an imperative need, and
+the Emperor, who had just ascended the throne at the age of eighteen,
+and whom a sort of greenness had preserved from the iniquities of this
+world, was determined to effect the great reform.
+
+With the advice of his Ministers (all of whom had had considerable
+experience in the handling of money), the Emperor at last determined
+that each man and woman should pay to the State one-tenth and no more of
+the wealth which he or she produced; those who produced nothing it was
+but common justice and reason to exempt, and the effect of this tardy
+act of justice upon the very rich was observed in the sudden increase of
+the death-rate from all those diseases that are the peculiar product of
+luxury and evil living. Paupers also, the unemployed, cripples,
+imbeciles, deaf mutes, and the clergy escaped under this beneficent and
+equable statute, and we may sum up the whole policy by saying that never
+was a law acclaimed with so much happy bewilderment nor subject to less
+expressed criticism than this.
+
+It was, moreover, easy to estimate in this new fashion the total revenue
+of the State, since its produce had been accurately set down by
+statisticians of the utmost eminence, and one of these diverse documents
+had been taken for the basis of the new fiscal regime.
+
+In practice also the collection was easy. Overseers would attend the
+harvest with large carts, prong the tenth turnip, hoick up the tenth
+sheaf of wheat, bucket out the tenth gallon of ale, and so forth. In the
+markets every tenth animal was removed by Imperial officers, every tenth
+newspaper was impounded as it left the press, and every tenth drink
+about to be consumed in the hostelries of the Empire was, after a
+simulacrum of proffering it, suddenly removed by the waiter and poured
+into a receptacle, the keys of which were very jealously guarded.
+
+It was the same with the liberal professions: of the fee received by a
+barrister in the Criminal Courts a tenth was regularly demanded at the
+door when the verdict had been given and the prisoner whom he had
+defended passed out to execution. The tenth knock-out in the prize ring
+received by the professional pugilist was followed by the immediate
+sequestration of his fee for that particular encounter, and the tenth
+aria vibrating from the lips of a prima donna was either compounded for
+at a certain rate or taken in kind by the official who attended at every
+performance of grand opera.
+
+One form of wealth alone puzzled the beneficent monarch and his
+Napoleonic advisers, and this was the production (for it then existed)
+of literary matter.
+
+At first this seemed as simple to tax as any one of the other numerous
+activities upon which the Emperor's loyal and loving subjects were
+engaged. A brief examination of the customs of the trade, conducted by
+an army of officials who penetrated into the very dens and attics in
+which Letters are evolved, reported that the method of payment was by
+the measurement of a number of words.
+
+"It is, your Majesty," wrote the permanent official of the department in
+his minute, "the practice of those who charitably employ this sort of
+person to pay them in classes by the thousand words; thus one man gets
+one sequin a thousand, another two byzants, a third as much as a ducat,
+while some who have singularly attracted the notice of the public can
+command ten, twenty, nay forty scutcheons, and in some very exceptional
+cases a thousand words command one of those beautiful pieces of stiff
+paper which your Majesty in his bountiful provision tenders to his
+dutiful subjects for acceptance as metal under diverse penalties. The
+just taxation of these fellows can therefore be easily achieved if your
+Majesty, in the exercise of his almost superhuman wisdom, will but add a
+schedule to the Finance Act in which there shall be set down fifteen or
+twenty classes of writers, with their price per thousand words, and a
+compulsory registration of each class, enforced by the rude hand of the
+police."
+
+The Emperor of Monomotopa immediately nominated a Royal Commission
+(unpaid), among whose sons, nephews, and private friends the salaried
+posts connected with the work were distributed. This Commission reported
+by a majority of one ere two years had elapsed. The schedule was
+designed, and such _littrateurs_ as had not in the interval fled
+the country were registered, while a further enactment strictly
+forbidding their employers to make payment upon any other system
+completed the scheme.
+
+But, alas! so full of low cunning and dirty dodges is this kind of man
+(I mean what we call authors) that very soon after the promulgation of
+the new law a marked deterioration in the quality of Monomotopan letters
+was apparent upon every side!
+
+The citizen opening his morning paper would be astonished to find the
+leading article consist of nothing more original than a portion of the
+sacred Scriptures. A novel bought to ease the tedium of a journey would
+consist of long catalogues for the most part, and when it came to
+descriptions of scenery would fall into the most minute and detailed
+category of every conceivable feature of the landscape. Some even took
+advantage of the new regulation so far as to repeat one single word an
+interminable number of times, while it was remarked with shame by the
+Ministers of Religion that the morals of their literary friends
+permitted them only to use words of one syllable, and those of the
+shortest kind. And this they said was the only true and original
+Monomotopan dialect.
+
+Such was the public inconvenience that next year a sharper and much more
+drastic law was passed, by which it was laid down that every literary
+composition should make sense within the meaning of the Act, and should
+be original so far as the reading of the judge appointed for the trial
+of the case extended. But though after the first few executions this law
+was generally observed, the nasty fellows affected by it managed to
+evade it in spirit, for by the use of obscure terms, of words drawn from
+dead languages, and of bold metaphor transferred from one art to
+another, they would deliberately invite prosecution, and then in the
+witness-box make fools of those plain men, the judge and jury, by
+showing that this apparently meaningless claptrap could, with sufficient
+ingenuity, be made to yield some sort of sense, and during this period
+no art critic was put to death.
+
+Driven to desperation, the Emperor changed the whole basis of the
+Remuneration of Literary Labour, and ordered that it should be by the
+length of the prose or poetry measured in inches.
+
+This reform, however, did but add to the confusion, for while the men of
+the pen wrote their works entirely in short dialogue, asterisks, and
+blanks, the publishers, who were now thoroughly organized, printed the
+same in smaller and smaller type, in order to avoid the consequences of
+the law.
+
+At this last piece of insolence the Emperor's mind was quickly decided.
+Arresting one night not only all those who had ever written, but all
+those who had even boasted of letters, or who were so much as suspected
+by their relatives of secretly indulging in them, he turned the whole
+two million into a large but enclosed area, and (desiring to kill two
+birds with one stone) offered the ensuing spectacle as an amusement to
+the more sober and respectable sections of the community.
+
+It is well known that the profession of letters breeds in its followers
+an undying hatred of each against his fellows. The public were therefore
+entertained for a whole day with the pleasing sight of a violent but
+quite disordered battle, in which each of the wretched prisoners seemed
+animated by no desire but the destruction of as many as possible of his
+hated rivals, until at last every soul of these detestable creatures had
+left its puny body and the State was rid of all.
+
+A law which carried to the universities the rule of the primary
+schools--to wit, that men should be taught to read but not to
+write--completed the good work. And there was peace.
+
+
+
+
+The Eye-Openers
+
+
+Without any doubt whatsoever, the one characteristic of the towns is
+the lack of reality in the impressions of the many: now we live in
+towns: and posterity will be astounded at us! It isn't only that we get
+our impressions for the most part as imaginary pictures called up by
+printer's ink--that would be bad enough; but by some curious perversion
+of the modern mind, printer's ink ends by actually preventing one from
+seeing things that are there; and sometimes, when one says to another
+who has not travelled, "Travel!" one wonders whether, after all, if he
+does travel, he will see the things before his eyes? If he does, he will
+find a new world; and there is more to be discovered in this fashion
+to-day than ever there was.
+
+I have sometimes wished that every Anglo-Saxon who from these shores has
+sailed and seen for the first time the other Anglo-Saxons in New York or
+Melbourne, would write in quite a short letter what he really felt.
+Ninety-nine times out of a hundred men only write what they have read
+before they started, just as Rousseau in an eighteenth-century village
+believed that every English yokel could vote and that his vote conveyed
+a high initiative, making and unmaking the policy of the State; or just
+as people, hearing that the birth-rate of France is low, travel in that
+country and say they can see no children--though they would hardly say
+it about Sussex or Cumberland where the birth-rate is lower still.
+
+What travel does in the way of pleasure (the providing of new and fresh
+sensations, and the expansion of experience), that it ought to do in the
+way of knowledge. It ought to and it does, with the wise, provide a
+complete course of unlearning the wretched tags with which the sham
+culture of our great towns has filled us. For instance, of Barbary--the
+lions do not live in deserts; they live in woods. The peasants of
+Barbary are not Semitic in appearance or in character; Barbary is full
+to the eye, not of Arab and Oriental buildings--they are not
+striking--but of great Roman monuments: they are altogether the most
+important things in the place. Barbary is not hot, as a whole: most of
+Barbary is extremely cold between November and March. The inhabitants of
+Barbary do not like a wild life, they are extremely fond of what
+civilization can give them, such as _crme de menthe_, rifles, good
+waterworks, maps, and railways: only they would like to have these
+things without the bother of strict laws and of the police, and so
+forth. Travel in Barbary with seeing eyes and you find out all this new
+truth.
+
+Now it took the French forty years and more before each of these plain
+facts (and I have only cited half a dozen out of as many hundred) got
+into their letters and their print: they have not yet got into the
+letters and the print of other nations. But an honest man travelling in
+Barbary on his own account would pick up every one of these truths in
+two or three days, except the one about the lions; to pick up that truth
+you must go to the very edge of the country, for the lion is a shy beast
+and withdraws from men.
+
+The wise man who really wants to see things as they are and to
+understand them, does not say: "Here I am on the burning soil of
+Africa." He says: "Here I am stuck in a snowdrift and the train twelve
+hours late"--as it was (with me in it) near Stif in January, 1905. He
+does not say as he looks on the peasant at his plough outside Batna:
+"Observe yon Semite!" He says: "That man's face is exactly like the face
+of a dark Sussex peasant, only a little leaner." He does not say: "See
+those wild sons of the desert! How they must hate the new artificial
+world around them!" Contrariwise, he says: "See those four Mohammedans
+playing cards with a French pack of cards and drinking liqueurs in the
+caf! See, they have ordered more liqueurs!" He does not say: "How
+strange and terrible a thing the railway must be to them!" He says: "I
+wish I was rich enough to travel first, for the natives pouring in and
+out of this third-class carriage, jabbering like monkeys, and treading
+on my feet, disturb my tranquillity. Some hundreds must have got in and
+out during the last fifty miles!"
+
+In other words, the wise man has permitted eye-openers to rain upon him
+their full, beneficent, and sacramental influence. And if a man in
+travelling will always maintain his mind ready for what he really sees
+and hears, he will become a whole nest of Columbuses discovering a
+perfectly interminable series of new worlds.
+
+A man can only talk of what he himself knows. Let me give further
+examples. I had always heard until I visited the Pyrenees how French
+civilization (especially in the matter of roads, motors, and things like
+that) went up to the "Spanish" frontier and then stopped dead. It
+doesn't. The change is at the Aragonese frontier. On the Basque third of
+the frontier the people are just as active and fond of wealth, and of
+scraping of stone and of cleanliness, and of drawing straight lines, to
+the north as to the south of it. They are all one people, as
+industrious, as thrifty, and as prosperous as the Scots. So are the
+Catalans one people, and you get much the same sort of advantages and
+disadvantages (apart from the effect of government) with the Catalans to
+the north as with the Catalans to the south of the border.
+
+So with religion. I had thought to find the Spanish churches crowded. I
+found just the contrary. It was the French churches that were crowded,
+not the Spanish; and the difference between the truth--what one really
+sees and hears--and the printed legend happens to be very subtly
+illustrated in this case of religion. The French have inherited (and are
+by this time used to, and have, perhaps grown fond of) a big religious
+debate. Those who side with the national religion and tradition
+emphasize their opinion in every possible way--so do their opponents.
+You pick up two newspapers from Toulouse, for instance, and it is quite
+on the cards that the leading article of each will be a disquisition
+upon the philosophy of religion, the one, the "Depche" of Toulouse,
+militantly, and often solently atheist; the other as militantly
+Catholic.
+
+You don't get that in Pamplona, and you don't get it in Saragossa. What
+you get there is a profound dislike of being interfered with, ancient
+and lazy customs, wealth retained by the chapters, the monasteries, and
+the colleges, and with all this a curious, all-pervading indifference.
+
+One might end this little train of thought by considering a converse
+test of what the eye-opener is in travel; and that test is to talk to
+foreigners when they first come to England and see how they tend to
+discover in England what they have read of at home instead of what they
+really see. There have been very few fogs in London of late, but your
+foreigner nearly always finds London foggy. Kent does not show along its
+main railway line the evidence of agricultural depression: it is like a
+garden. Yet, in a very careful and thorough French book just published
+by a French traveller, his bird's-eye view of the country as he went
+through Kent just after landing would make you think the place a desert;
+he seems to have thought the hedges a sign of agricultural decay. The
+same foreigner will discover a plebeian character in the Commons and an
+aristocratic one in the House of Lords, though he shall have heard but
+four speeches in each, and though every one of the eight speeches shall
+have been delivered by members of one family group closely intermarried,
+wealthy, titled, and perhaps (who knows?) of some lineage as well.
+
+The moral is that one should tell the truth to oneself, and look out for
+it outside one. It is quite as novel and as entertaining as the
+discovery of the North Pole--or, in case that has come off (as some
+believe), the discovery of the South Pole.
+
+
+
+
+The Public
+
+
+I notice a very curious thing in the actions particularly of business
+men to-day, and of other men also, which is the projection outward from
+their own inward minds of something which is called "The Public"--and
+which is not there.
+
+I do not mean that a business man is wrong when he says that "the public
+will demand" such and such an article, and on producing the article
+finds it sells widely; he is obviously and demonstrably right in his use
+of the word "public" in such a connexion. Nor is a man wrong or subject
+to illusion when he says, "The public have taken to cinematograph
+shows," or "The public were greatly moved when the Hull fishermen were
+shot at by the Russian fleet in the North Sea." What I mean is "The
+Public" as an excuse or scapegoat; the Public as a menace; the Public as
+a butt. That Public simply does not exist.
+
+For instance, the publisher will say, as though he were talking of some
+monster, "The Public will not buy Jinks's work. It is first-class work,
+so it is too good for the Public." He is quite right in his statement of
+fact. Of the very small proportion of our people who read only a
+fraction buy books, and of the fraction that buy books very few indeed
+buy Jinks's. Jinks has a very pleasant up-and-down style. He loves to
+use funny words dragged from the tomb, and he has delicate little
+emotions. Yet hardly anybody will buy him--so the publisher is quite
+right in one sense when he says, "The Public" won't buy Jinks. But where
+he is quite wrong and suffering from a gross illusion is in the motive
+and the manner of his saying it. He talks of "The Public" as something
+gravely to blame and yet irredeemably stupid. He talks of it as
+something quite external to himself, almost as something which he has
+never personally come across. He talks of it as though it were a Mammoth
+or an Eskimo. Now, if that publisher would wander for a moment into the
+world of realities he would perceive his illusion. Modern men do not
+like realities, and do not usually know the way to come in contact with
+them. I will tell the publisher how to do so in this case.
+
+Let him consider what books he buys himself, what books his wife buys;
+what books his eldest son, his grandmother, his Aunt Jane, his old
+father, his butler (if he runs to one), his most intimate friend, and
+his curate buy. He will find that not one of these people buys Jinks.
+Most of them will talk Jinks, and if Jinks writes a play, however dull,
+they will probably go and see it once; but they draw the line at buying
+Jinks's books--and I don't blame them.
+
+The moral is very simple. You yourselves are "The Public," and if you
+will watch your own habits you will find that the economic explanation
+of a hundred things becomes quite clear.
+
+I have seen the same thing in the offices of a newspaper. Some simple
+truth of commanding interest to this country, involving no attack upon
+any rich man, and therefore not dangerous under our laws, comes up for
+printing. It is discussed in the editor's room. The editor says, "Yes,
+of course, we know it is true, and of course it is important, but the
+Public would not stand it."
+
+I remember one newspaper office of my youth in which the Public was
+visualized as a long file of people streaming into a Wesleyan chapel,
+and another in which the Public was supposed to be made up without
+exception of retired officers and maiden ladies, every one of whom was a
+communicant of the English Established Church, every one of good birth,
+and yet every one devoid of culture.
+
+Without the least doubt each of these absurd symbols haunted the brain
+of each of the editors in question. The editor of the first paper would
+print at wearisome length accounts of obscure Catholic clerical scandals
+on the Continent, and would sweat with alarm if his sub-editors had
+admitted a telegram concerning the trial of some fraudulent Protestant
+missionary or other in China.
+
+Meanwhile his rather dull paper was being bought by you and me, and bank
+clerks and foreign tourists, and doctors, and publicans, and brokers,
+Catholics, Protestants, atheists, "peculiar people," and every kind of
+man for many reasons--because it had the best social statistics, because
+it had a very good dramatic critic, because they had got into the habit
+and couldn't stop, because it came nearest to hand on the bookstall. Of
+a hundred readers, ninety-nine skipped the clerical scandal and either
+chuckled over the fraudulent missionary or were bored by him and went on
+to the gambling news from the Stock Exchange. But the type for whom all
+that paper was produced, the menacing god or demon who was supposed to
+forbid publication of certain news in it, did not exist.
+
+So it was with the second paper, but with this difference, that the
+editor was right about the social position of those who read his sheet,
+but quite wrong about the opinions and emotions of people in that social
+position.
+
+It was all the more astonishing from the fact that the editor was born
+in that very class himself and perpetually mixed with it. No one perhaps
+read "The Stodge" (for under this device would I veil the true name of
+the organ) more carefully than those retired officers of either service
+who are to be found in what are called our "residential" towns. The
+editor was himself the son of a colonel of guns who had settled down in
+a Midland watering-place. He ought to have known that world, and he did
+know that world, but he kept his illusion of his Public quite apart from
+his experience of realities.
+
+Your retired officer (to take his particular section of this particular
+paper's audience) is nearly always a man with a hobby, and usually a
+good scientific or literary hobby at that. He writes many of our best
+books demanding research. He takes an active part in public work which
+requires statistical study. He is always a travelled man, and nearly
+always a well-read man. The broadest and the most complete questioning
+and turning and returning of the most fundamental subjects--religion,
+foreign policy, and domestic economics--are quite familiar to him. But
+the editor was not selecting news for that real man; he was selecting
+news for an imaginary retired officer of inconceivable stupidity and
+ignorance, redeemed by a childlike simplicity. If a book came in, for
+instance, on biology, and there was a chance of having it reviewed by
+one of the first biologists of the day, he would say: "Oh, our Public
+won't stand evolution," and he would trot out his imaginary retired
+officer as though he were a mule.
+
+Artists, by which I mean painters, and more especially art critics, sin
+in this respect. They say: "The public wants a picture to tell a story,"
+and they say it with a sneer. Well, the public does want a picture to
+tell a story, because you and I want a picture to tell a story. Sorry.
+But so it is. The art critic himself wants it to tell a story, and so
+does the artist. Each would rather die than admit it, but if you set
+either walking, with no one to watch him, down a row of pictures you
+would see him looking at one picture after another with that expression
+of interest which only comes on a human face when it is following a
+human relation. A mere splash of colour would bore him; still more a
+mere medley of black and white. The story may have a very simple plot;
+it may be no more than an old woman sitting on a chair, or a landscape,
+but a picture, if a man can look at it all, tells a story right enough.
+It must interest men, and the less of a story it tells the less it will
+interest men. A good landscape tells so vivid a story that children (who
+are unspoilt) actually transfer themselves into such a landscape, walk
+about in it, and have adventures in it.
+
+They make another complaint against the public, that it desires painting
+to be lifelike. Of course it does! The statement is accurate, but the
+complaint is based on an illusion. It is you and I and all the world
+that want painting to imitate its object. There is a wonderful picture
+in the Glasgow Art Gallery, painted by someone a long time ago, in which
+a man is represented in a steel cuirass with a fur tippet over it, and
+the whole point of that picture is that the fur looks like fur and the
+steel looks like steel. I never met a critic yet who was so bold as to
+say that picture was a bad picture. It is one of the best pictures in
+the world; but its whole point is the liveliness of the steel and of the
+fur.
+
+Finally, there is one proper test to prove that all this jargon about
+"The Public" is nonsense, which is that it is altogether modern. Who
+quarrelled with the Public in the old days when men lived a healthy
+corporate life, and painted, wrote, or sang for the applause of their
+fellows?
+
+If you still suffer from the illusion after reading these magisterial
+lines of mine, why, there is a drastic way to cure yourself, which is to
+go for a soldier; take the shilling and live in a barracks for a year;
+then buy yourself out. You will never despise the public again. And
+perhaps a better way still is to go round the Horn before the mast. But
+take care that your friends shall send you enough money to Valparaiso
+for your return journey to be made in some comfort; I would not wish my
+worst enemy to go back the way he came.
+
+
+
+
+On Entries
+
+
+I am always planning in my mind new kinds of guide books. Or, rather,
+new features in guide books.
+
+One such new feature which I am sure would be very useful would be an
+indication to the traveller of how he should approach a place.
+
+I would first presuppose him quite free and able to come by rail or by
+water or by road or on foot across the fields, and then I would describe
+how the many places I have seen stand quite differently in the mind
+according to the way in which one approaches them.
+
+The value of travel, to the eye at least, lies in its presentation of
+clear and permanent impressions, and these I think (though some would
+quarrel with me for saying it) are usually instantaneous. It is the
+first sharp vision of an unknown town, the first immediate vision of a
+range of hills, that remains for ever and is fruitful of joy within the
+mind, or, at least, that is one and perhaps the chief of the fruits of
+travel.
+
+I remember once, for instance, waking from a dead sleep in a train (for
+I was very tired) and finding it to be evening. What woke me was the
+sudden stopping of the train. It was in Italy. A man in the carriage
+said to me that there was some sort of accident and that we should be
+waiting a while. The people got out and walked about by the side of the
+track. I also got out of the carriage and took the air, and when I so
+stepped out into the cool of that summer evening I was amazed at the
+loneliness and tragedy of the place.
+
+There were no houses about me that I could see save one little place
+built for the railway men. There was no cultivation either.
+
+Close before me began a sort of swamp with reeds which hardly moved to
+the air, and this gradually merged into a sheet of water above and
+beyond which were hills, barren and not very high, which took the last
+of the daylight, for they looked both southward and to the west. The
+more I watched the extraordinary and absolute scene the less I heard of
+the low voices about me, and indeed a sort of positive silence seemed to
+clothe the darkening landscape. It was full of something quite gone
+down, and one had the impression that it would never be disturbed.
+
+As the light lessened, the hills darkened, the sky took on one broad and
+tender colour, the sheet of water gleamed quite white, and the reeds
+stood up like solid shadows against it. I wish I could express in words
+the impression of recollection and of savage mourning which all that
+landscape imposed, but from that impression I was recalled and startled
+by the guard, who came along telling us that things were righted and
+that the train would start again; soon we were in our places and the
+rapid movement isolated for me the memory of a singularly vivid scene. I
+thought the place must have a name, and I asked a neighbour in the
+carriage what it was called; he told me it was called Lake Trasimene.
+
+Now I do not say that this tragic site is to be visited thus. It was but
+an accident, though an accident for which I am most grateful to my fate.
+But what I have said here illustrates my meaning that the manner of
+one's approach to any place in travel makes all the difference.
+
+Thus one may note how very different is Europe seen from the water than
+seen from any other opportunity for travel. So many of the great
+cathedrals were built to dominate men who should watch them from the
+wharves of the mediaeval towns, but I think it is almost a rule if you
+have leisure and can take your choice to choose this kind of entry to
+them. Amiens is quite a different thing seen from the river below it to
+the north and east from what it is seen by a gradual approach along the
+street of a modern town. The roofs climb up at it, and it stands
+enthroned. So Chartres seen from the little Eure; but the Eure is so
+small a river that he would be a bold man who would travel up it all
+this way. Nevertheless it is a good piece of travel, and anyone who will
+undertake it will see Louviers and will pass Anet, where the greatest
+work of the Renaissance once stood, and will go through lonely but rich
+pastures until at last he gets to Chartres by the right gate. Thence he
+will see something astonishing for so flat a region as the Beauce. The
+great church seems mountainous upon a mountain. Its apse completes the
+unclimbable steepness of the hill and its buttresses follow the lines of
+the fall of it. But if you do not come in by the river, at least come in
+by the Orleans road. I suppose that nine people out of ten, even to-day
+when the roads are in proper use again, come into Chartres by that
+northern railway entry, which is for all the world like coming into a
+great house by a big, neglected backyard.
+
+Then if ever you have business that takes you to Bayonne, come in by
+river and from the sea, and how well you will understand the little town
+and its lovely northern Gothic!
+
+Some of the great churches all the world knows must be seen from the
+water, and most of the world so sees them. Ely is one, Cologne is
+another, but how many people have looked right up at Durham as at a
+cliff from that gorge below, or how many have seen the height of Albi
+from the Tarn?
+
+As for famous cities with their walls, there is no doubt that a man
+should approach them by the chief high road, which once linked them with
+their capital, or with their nearest port, or with Rome--and that
+although this kind of entry is nowadays often marred by ugly suburbs.
+You will get much your finest sight of Segovia as you come in by the
+road from the Guadarama and from Madrid. It is from that point that you
+were meant to see the town, and you will get much your best grip on
+Carcassonne, old Carcassonne, if you come in by the road from Toulouse
+at morning as you were meant to come, and so Coucy should be approached
+by that royal road from Soissons and from the south, while as for Laon
+(the most famous of the hill towns), come to it from the east, for it
+looks eastward, and its lords were Eastern lords.
+
+Ranges of hills, I think, are never best first seen from railways.
+Indeed, I can remember no great sight of hills so seen, not even the
+Alps. A railway must of necessity follow the floor of the valley and
+tunnel and creep round the shoulders of the bulwarks. There is perhaps
+one exception to this rule, which is the sight of the Pyrenees from the
+train as one comes into Tarbes. It is a wise thing if you are visiting
+those hills to come into Tarbes by night and sleep there, and then next
+morning the train upon its way to Pau unfolds you all the wall of the
+mountains. But this is an accident. It is because the railway runs upon
+a sort of high platform that you see the mountains so. With all other
+hills that I remember it is best to have them burst suddenly upon you
+from the top of some pass lifted high above the level and coming, let us
+say, to a height half their own. Certainly the Bernese Oberland is more
+wonderful caught in one moment from the Jura than introduced in any
+other way, and the snows on Atlas over the desert seem like part of the
+sky when they come upon one after climbing the red rocks of the high
+plateaux and you see them shining over the salt marshes. The Vosges you
+cannot thus see from a half-height; there is no platform, and that is
+perhaps why the Vosges have not impressed travellers as they should. But
+you can so watch the grand chain of old volcanoes which are the rampart
+of Auvergne. You can stand upon the high wooden ridge of Foreze and see
+them take the morning across the mists and the flat of the Limagne,
+where the Gauls fought Caesar. Further south from the high table of the
+Velay you can see the steep backward escarpment of the Cevennes, inky
+blue, desperately blue, blue like nothing else on earth except the
+mountains in those painters of North Italy, of the parts north and east
+of Venice, the name of whose school escapes me--or, rather, I never knew
+it.
+
+Now, as for towns that live in a hollow, it is great fun to come upon
+them from above. They are not used to being thus taken at a disadvantage
+and they are both surprised and surprising. There are many towns in
+holes and trenches of Europe which you can thus play "peep-bo" with if
+you will come at them walking. By train they will mean nothing to you.
+You will probably come upon them out of a long, shrieking tunnel, and by
+the high road they mean little more, for the high road will follow the
+vale. But if you come upon them from over their guardian cliffs and
+scars you catch them unawares, and this is a good way of approaching
+them, for you master them, as it were, and spy them out before you enter
+in. You can act thus with Grenoble and with many a town on the Meuse,
+and particularly with Aubusson, which lies in the depths of so dreadful
+a trench that I could wonder how man ever dreamt of living and building
+there.
+
+The most difficult of all places on which to advise, I think, would be
+the very great cities, the capitals. They seem to have to-day no noble
+entries and no proper approach. Perhaps we shall only deal with them
+justly when we can circle down to them through the air and see their
+vast activity splashed over the plain. Anyhow, there is no proper way of
+entering them now that I know of. Berlin is not worth entering at all.
+Rome (a man told me once) could be entered by some particular road over
+the Janiculum, I think--which also, if I remember right, was the way
+that Shelley came--but I despair of Paris, and certainly of London. I
+cannot even recall an entry for Brussels, though Brussels is a
+monumental city with great rewards for those who love the combination of
+building and hills.
+
+Perhaps, after all, the happiest entries of all and the most easy are
+those of our many market towns, small and not swollen in Britain and in
+Northern Gaul and in the Netherlands and in the Valley of the Rhine.
+These hardly ever fail us, and we come upon them in our travels as they
+desire that we should come, and we know them properly as things should
+properly be known--that is, from the beginning.
+
+
+
+
+Companions of Travel
+
+
+I write of travelling companions in general, and not in particular,
+making of them a composite photograph, as it were, and finding what they
+have in common and what is their type; and in the first place I find
+them to be chance men. For there are some people who cannot travel
+without a set companion who goes with them from Charing Cross all over
+the world and back to Charing Cross again. And there is a pathos in
+this: as Balzac said of marriage, "What a commentary on human life, that
+human beings must associate to endure it." So it is with many who cannot
+endure to travel alone: and some will positively advertise for another
+to go with them.
+
+In a glade of the Sierra Nevada, which, for awful and, as it were,
+permanent beauty seemed not to be of this world, I came upon a man
+slowly driving along the trail a ramshackle cart, in which were a few
+chairs and tables and bedding. He had a long grey beard and wild eyes;
+he was old, and very small like a gnome, but he had not the gnome's
+good-humour. I asked him where he was going, and I slowed down, so as to
+keep pace with his ridiculous horse. For some time he would not answer
+me, and then he said, "Out of this." He added, "I am tired of it." And
+when I asked him, "Of what?" his only answer was an old-fashioned oath.
+But from further complaints which he made I gathered that what he was
+tired of was clearing forests, digging ground, paying debts, and in
+general living upon this unhappy earth. He did not like me very much,
+and though I would willingly have learned more, he would tell me nothing
+further, so when we got to a place where there was a little stream I
+went on and left him.
+
+I have never forgotten the sadness of this man. Where he was going, and
+what he expected to do, or what opportunities he had, I have never
+understood. Though some years after, in quite another place--namely,
+Steyning, in Sussex--I came upon just such another, whose quarrel was
+with the English climate, the rich and the poor, and the whole
+constitution of God's earth. These are the advantages of travel, that
+one meets so many men whom one would otherwise never meet, and that one
+feeds as it were upon the complexity of mankind.
+
+Thus in a village called Encamps, in the depths of Andorra, where no man
+has ever killed another, I found a man with a blue face, who was a
+fossil, the kind of man you would never find in the swelling life of
+Western Europe. He was emancipated, he had studied in Perpignan, over
+and beyond the great hills. He could not see why he should pay taxes to
+support a priest. "The priests" he assured me, "say the most ridiculous
+things. They narrate the most impossible fables. They affirm what cannot
+possibly be true. All that they say is in opposition to science. If I am
+ill, can a priest cure me? No. Can a priest tell me how to build, or how
+to light my house? He is unable to do so. He is a useless and a lying
+mouth, why should I feed him?"
+
+I questioned this man very closely, and discovered that in his view the
+world slowly changed from worse to better, and to accelerate this
+process enlightenment alone was needed. "But what do these brutes," he
+said, alluding to his fellow-countrymen, "know of enlightenment? They do
+not even make roads, because the priests forbid them."
+
+I could write at length upon this man. He was not a Sceptic as you may
+imagine, nor had he adopted the Lucretian form of Epicureanism. Not a
+bit of it. He was a hearty Atheist, with Positivist leanings. I further
+found that he had married a woman older, wealthier, and if possible
+uglier than himself. She kept the inn, and was very kind to him. His
+life would have been quite happy had he not been tortured by the
+monstrous superstitions of others.
+
+Then, again, in the town of Marseilles, only two years ago, I met a man
+who looked well fed, and had a stalwart, square French face, and whose
+politico-economic ideal, though it was not mine, greatly moved me. It
+was just past midnight, and I was throwing little stones into the old
+Greek harbour, the stench and the glory of which are nearly three
+thousand years old; I was to be off at dawn upon a tramp steamer, and I
+had so determined to pass the few hours of darkness.
+
+I was throwing pebbles into the water, I say, and thinking about
+Ulysses, when this man came slouching up, with his hands in the pockets
+of his enormous corduroy trousers, and, looking at me with some contempt
+from above (for he was standing, I was sitting), he began to converse
+with me. We talked first of ships, then of heat and cold, and so on to
+wealth and poverty; and thus it was I came upon his views, which were
+that there should be a sort of break up, and houses ought to be burned,
+and things smashed, and people killed; and over and above this, it
+should be made plain that no one had a right to govern: not the people,
+because they were always being bamboozled; obviously not the rich; least
+of all, the politicians, to whom he justly applied the most derogatory
+epithets. He waved his arm out in the darkness at the Phoceans, at the
+half-million of Marseilles, and said, "All that should disappear." The
+constructive side of his politico-economic scheme was negative. He was a
+practical man. None of your fine theories for him. One step at a time.
+Let there be a Chambardement--that is, a noisy collapse, and he would
+think about what to do afterwards.
+
+His was not the narrow, deductive mind. He was objective and concrete.
+Believe me or not, he was paid an excellent wage by the municipality to
+prevent people like me, who sit up at night, from doing mischief in the
+harbour. When I had come to an end of his politico-economic scheme--the
+main lines of which were so clear and simple that a child could
+understand them--we fell to talking of the tides, and I told him that in
+my country the sea went up and down. He was no rustic, and would have no
+such commonplace truths. He was well acquainted with the Phenomenon of
+the Tides; it was due to the combined attraction of the sun and of the
+moon. But when I told him I knew places where the tides fell thirty or
+forty feet, we would have had a violent quarrel had I not prudently
+admitted that that was romantic exaggeration, and that five or six was
+the most that one ever saw it move. I avoided the quarrel, but the
+little incident broke up our friendship, and he shuffled away. He did
+not like having his leg pulled.
+
+There are many others I remember. Those I have written about elsewhere I
+am ashamed to recall, as the man at Jedburgh, who first expounded to me
+how one knew all about the fate of the individual soul, and then
+objected to personal questions about his own; the German officer man at
+Aix-la-Chapelle, who had hair the colour of tow, and gave me minute
+details of the method by which England was to be destroyed; a man I met
+upon the Appian Way, who told the most abominable lies; and another man
+who met me outside Oxford station during the Vac. and offered to show me
+the sights of the town for a consideration, which he did, but I would
+not pay him because he was inaccurate, as I easily proved by a few
+searching questions upon the exact site of Bocardo (of which he had
+never heard), and the negative evidence against a Roman origin for the
+site of the city. Moreover, he said that Trinity was St. John's, which
+was rubbish.
+
+Then there was another man who travelled with me from Birmingham,
+pressed certain tracts upon me, and wanted to charge me sixpence each at
+Paddington. But if I were to speak of even these few I should exceed.
+
+
+
+
+On the Sources of Rivers
+
+
+There are certain customs in man the permanence of which gives infinite
+pleasure. When the mood of the schools is against them these customs lie
+in wait beneath the floors of society, but they never die, and when a
+decay in pedantry or in despotism or in any other evil and inhuman
+influence permits them to reappear they reappear.
+
+One of these customs is the religious attachment of man to isolated high
+places, peaks, and single striking hills. On these he must build
+shrines, and though he is a little furtive about it nowadays, yet the
+instinct is there, strong as ever. I have not often come to the top of a
+high hill with another man but I have seen him put a few stones together
+when he got there, or, if he had not the moral courage so to satisfy his
+soul, he would never fail on such an occasion to say something ritual and
+quasi-religious, even if it were only about the view; and another instinct
+of the same sort is the worship of the sources of rivers.
+
+The Iconoclast and the people whose pride it is that their senses are
+dead will see in a river nothing more than so much moisture gathered in
+a narrow place and falling as the mystery of gravitation inclines it.
+Their mood is the mood of that gentleman who despaired and wrote:
+
+ A cloud's a lot of vapour,
+ The sky's a lot of air,
+ And the sea's a lot of water
+ That happens to be there.
+
+You cannot get further down than that. When you have got as far down as
+that all is over. Luckily God still keeps his mysteries going for you,
+and you can't get rid, even in that mood, of the certitude that you
+yourself exist and that things outside of you are outside of you. But
+when you get into that modern mood you do lose the personality of
+everything else, and you forget the sanctity of river heads.
+
+You have lost a great deal when you have forgotten that, and it behoves
+you to recover what you have lost as quickly as possible, which is to be
+done in this way: Visit the source of some famous stream and think about
+it. There was a Scotchman once who discovered the sources of the Nile,
+to the lasting advantage of mankind and the permanent glory of his
+native land. He thought the source of the Nile looked rather like the
+sources of the Till or the Tweed or some such river of Thule. He has
+been ridiculed for saying this, but he was mystically very right. The
+source of the greatest of rivers, since it was sacred to him, reminded
+him of the sacred things of his home.
+
+When I consider the sources of rivers which I have seen, there is not
+one, I think, which I do not remember to have had about it an influence
+of awe. Not only because one could in imaginings see the kingdoms of the
+cities which it was to visit and the way in which it would bind them all
+together in one province and one story, but also simply because it was
+an origin.
+
+The sources of the Rhone are famous: the Rhone comes out of a glacier
+through a sort of ice cave, and if it were not for an enormous hotel
+quite four-square it would be as lonely a place as there is in Europe,
+and as remarkable a beginning for a great river as could anywhere be
+found. Nor, when you come to think of it, does any European river have
+such varied fortunes as the Rhone. It feeds such different religions and
+looks on such diverse landscapes. It makes Geneva and it makes Avignon;
+it changes in colour and in the nature of its going as it goes. It sees
+new products appearing continually on its journey until it comes to
+olives, and it flows past the beginning of human cities, when it
+reflects the huddle of old Arles.
+
+The sources of the Garonne are well known. The Garonne rises by itself
+in a valley from which there is no issue, like the fabled valleys shut
+in by hills on every side. And if it were anything but the Garonne it
+would not be able to escape: it would lie imprisoned there for ever.
+Being the Garonne it tunnels a way for itself right under the High
+Pyrenees and comes out again on the French side. There are some that
+doubt this, but then there are people who would doubt anything.
+
+The sources of the River Arun are not so famous as these two last, and
+it is a good thing, for they are to be found in one of the loneliest
+places within an hour of London that any man can imagine, and if you
+were put down there upon a windy day you would think yourself upon the
+moors. There is nothing whatsoever near you at the beginnings of the
+little sacred stream.
+
+Thames had a source once which was very famous. The water came out
+plainly at a fountain under a bleak wood just west of the Fosse Way,
+under which it ran by a culvert, a culvert at least as old as the
+Romans. But when about a hundred years ago people began to improve the
+world in those parts, they put up a pumping station and they pumped
+Thames dry--since which time its gods have deserted the river.
+
+The sources of the Ribble are in a lonely place up in a corner of the
+hills where everything has strange shapes and where the rocks make one
+think of trolls. The great frozen Whernside stands up above it, and
+Ingleborough Hill, which is like no other hill in England, but like the
+flat-topped Mesas which you have in America, or (as those who have
+visited it tell me) like the flat hills of South Africa; and a little
+way off on the other side is Pen-y-ghent, or words to that effect. The
+little River Ribble rises under such enormous guardianship. It rises
+quite clean and single in the shape of a little spring upon the
+hillside, and too few people know it. The other river that flows east
+while the Ribble flows west is the River Ayr. It rises in a curious way,
+for it imitates the Garonne, and finding itself blocked by limestone
+burrows underneath at a place called Malham Tarn, after which it has no
+more trouble.
+
+The River Severn, the River Wye, and a third unimportant river, or at
+least important only for its beauty (and who would insist on that?) rise
+all close together on the skirts of Plinlimmon, and the smallest of them
+has the most wonderful rising, for it falls through the gorge of Llygnant,
+which looks like, and perhaps is, the deepest cleft in this island, or, at
+any rate, the most unexpected. And a fourth source on the mountain, a tarn
+below its summit, is the source of Rheidol, which has a short but
+adventurous life like Achilles.
+
+There is one source in Europe that is properly dealt with, and where the
+religion due to the sources of rivers has free play, and this is the
+source of the Seine. It comes out upon the northern side of the hills
+which the French call the Hills of Gold, in a country of pasturage and
+forest, very high up above the world and thinly peopled. The River Seine
+appears there in a sort of miraculous manner, pouring out of a grotto,
+and over this grotto the Parisians have built a votive statue; and there
+is yet another of the hundred thousand things that nobody knows.
+
+
+
+
+On Error
+
+
+There is an elusive idea that has floated through the minds of most of
+us as we grew older and learnt more and more things. It is an idea
+extremely difficult to get into set terms. It is an idea very difficult
+to put so that we shall not seem nonsensical; and yet it is a very
+useful idea, and if it could be realized its realization would be of
+very practical value. It is the idea of a Dictionary of Ignorance and
+Error.
+
+On the face of it a definition of the work is impossible. Strictly
+speaking it would be infinite, for human knowledge, however far
+extended, must always be infinitely small compared with all possible
+knowledge, just as any given finite space is infinitely small compared
+with all space.
+
+But that is not the idea which we entertain when we consider this
+possible Dictionary of Ignorance and Error. What we really mean is a
+Dictionary of the sort of Ignorance and the sort of Error which we know
+ourselves to have been guilty of, which we have escaped by special
+experience or learning as time went on, and against which we would warn
+our fellows.
+
+Flaubert, I think, first put it down in words, and said that such an
+encyclopaedia was very urgently needed.
+
+It will never exist, but we all know that it ought to exist. Bits of it
+appear from time to time piecemeal and here and there, as for instance
+in the annotations which modern scholarship attaches to the great text,
+in the printed criticisms to which sundry accepted doctrines are
+subjected by the younger men to-day, in the detailed restatement of
+historical events which we get from modern research as our fathers could
+never have them--but the work itself, the complete Encyclopaedia or
+Dictionary of Ignorance and Error, will never be printed. It is a great
+pity.
+
+Incidentally one may remark that the process by which a particular error
+is propagated is as interesting to watch as the way in which a plant
+grows.
+
+The first step seems to be the establishing of an authority and the
+giving of that authority a name which comes to connote doctrinal
+infallibility. A very good example of this is the title "Science." Mere
+physical research, its achievements, its certitudes, even its
+conflicting and self-contradictory hypotheses, having got lumped
+together in many minds under this one title Science, the title is now
+sacred. It is used as a priestly title, as an immediate estopper to
+doubt or criticism.
+
+The next step is a very interesting one for the student of psychical
+pathology to note. It seems to be a disease as native and universal to
+the human mind as is the decay of the teeth to the human body. It seems
+as though we all must suffer somewhat from it, and most of us suffer a
+great deal from it, though in a cool aspect we easily perceive it to be
+a lesion of thought. And this second step is as follows:
+
+The whole lump having been given its sacred title and erected into an
+infallible authority, which you are to accept as directly superior to
+yourself and all personal sources of information, there is attributed to
+this idol a number of attributes. We give it a soul, and a habit and
+manners which do not attach to its stuff at all. The projection of this
+imagined living character in our authority is comparable to what we also
+do with mountains, statues, towns, and so forth. Our living
+individuality lends individuality to them. I might here digress to
+discuss whether this habit of the mind were not a distorted reflection
+of some truth, and whether, indeed, there be not such beings as demons
+or the souls of things. But, to leave that, we take our authority--this
+thing "Science," for instance--we clothe it with a creed and appetites
+and a will, and all the other human attributes.
+
+This done, we set out in the third step in our progress towards fixed
+error. We make the idol speak. Of course, being only an idol, it talks
+nonsense. But by the previous steps just referred to we must believe
+that nonsense, and believe it we do. Thus it is, I think, that fixed
+error is most generally established.
+
+I have already given one example in the hierarchic title "Science."
+
+It was but the other day that I picked up a weekly paper in which a
+gentleman was discussing ghosts--that is, the supposed apparition of the
+living and the dead: of the dead though dead, and of the living though
+absent.
+
+Nothing has been more keenly discussed since the beginning of human
+discussions. Are these phenomena (which undoubtedly happen) what modern
+people call subjective, or are they what modern people call objective?
+In old-fashioned English, Are the ghosts really there or are they not?
+The most elementary use of the human reason persuades us that the matter
+is not susceptible of positive proof. The criterion of certitude in any
+matter of perception is an inner sense in the perceiver that the thing
+he perceives is external to himself. He is the only witness; no one can
+corroborate or dispute him. The seer may be right or he may be wrong,
+but we have no proof--and only according to our temperament, our fancy,
+our experience, our mood, do we decide with one or the other of the two
+great schools.
+
+Well, the gentleman of whom I am speaking wrote and had printed in plain
+English this phrase (read it carefully):--"Science teaches us that these
+phenomena are purely subjective."
+
+Now I am quite sure that of the thousands who read that phrase all but a
+handful read it in the spirit in which one hears the oracle of a god.
+Some read it with regret, some with pleasure, but all with acquiescence.
+
+That physical science was not competent in the matter one way or the
+other each of those readers would probably have discovered, if even so
+simple a corrective as the use of the term "physical research" instead
+of the sacred term "science" had been applied; the hierarchic title
+"Science" did the trick.
+
+I might take another example out of many hundreds to show what I mean.
+You have an authority which is called, where documents are concerned,
+"The Best Modern Criticism." "The Best Modern Criticism" decides that
+"Tam o' Shanter" was written by a committee of permanent officials of
+the Board of Trade, or that Napoleon Bonaparte never existed. As a
+matter of fact, the tomfoolery does not usually venture upon ground so
+near home, but it talks rubbish just as monstrous about a poem a few
+hundred or a few thousand years old, or a great personality a few
+hundred or a few thousand years old.
+
+Now if you will look at that phrase "The Best Modern Criticism" you will
+see at once that it simply teems with assumption and tautology. But it
+does more and worse: it presupposes that an infallible authority must of
+its own nature be perpetually wrong.
+
+Even supposing that I have the most "modern" (that is, merely the
+latest) criticism to hand, and even supposing that by some omniscience
+of mine I can tell which is "the best" (that is, which part of it has
+really proved most ample, most painstaking, most general, and most
+sincere), even then the phrase fatally condemns me. It is to say that
+Wednesday is always infallible as compared with Tuesday, and Thursday as
+compared with Wednesday, which is absurd.
+
+The B.M.C. tells me in 1875 that the Song of Roland could have no
+origins anterior to the year 1030. But the B.M.C. of 1885 (being a
+B.M.C. and nothing more valuable) has a changed opinion. It must change
+its opinion, that is the law of its being, since an integral factor in
+its value is its modernity. In 1885 B.M.C. tells me that the Song of
+Roland can be traced to origins far earlier, let us say to 912.
+
+In 1895 B.M.C. has come to other conclusions--the Song of Roland is
+certainly as late as 1115 ... and so forth.
+
+Now you would say that an idol of that absurdity could have no effect
+upon sane men. Change the terms and give it another name, and you would
+laugh at the idea of its having an effect upon any men. But we know as a
+matter of fact that it commands the thoughts of nearly all men to-day
+and makes cowards of the most learned.
+
+Perhaps you will ask me at the end of so long a criticism in what way
+error may be corrected, since there is this sort of tendency in us to
+accept it, to which I answer that things correct it, or as the
+philosophers call things, "Reality." Error does not wash.
+
+To go back to that example of ghosts. If ever you see a ghost (my poor
+reader), I shall ask you afterwards whether he seemed subjective or no.
+I think you will find the word "subjective" an astonishingly thin
+one--if, at least, I catch you early after the experience.
+
+
+
+
+The Great Sight
+
+
+All night we had slept on straw in a high barn. The wood of its beams
+was very old, and the tiles upon the roof were green with age; but there
+hung from beam to beam, fantastically, a wire caught by nails, and here
+and there from this wire hung an electric-light bulb. It was a symbol of
+the time, and the place, and the people. There was no local by-law to
+forbid such a thing, or if there was, no one dreamt of obeying it.
+
+Just in the first dawn of that September day we went out, my companion
+and I, at guesswork to hunt in the most amusing kind of hunting, which
+is the hunting of an army. The lane led through one of those lovely
+ravines of Picardy which travellers never know (for they only see the
+plains), and in a little while we thought it wise to strike up the steep
+bank from the valley on to the bare plateau above, but it was all at
+random and all guesswork, only we wisely thought that we were nearing
+the beginning of things, and that on the bare fields of the high flat we
+should have a greater horizon and a better chance of catching any
+indications of men or arms.
+
+When we had reached the height the sun had long risen, but it as yet
+gave no shining and there were no shadows, for a delicate mist hung all
+about the landscape, though immediately above us the sky was faintly
+blue.
+
+It was the weirdest of sensations to go for mile after mile over that
+vast plain, to know that it was cut in regular series by parallel
+ravines which in all that extended view we could not guess at; to see up
+to the limits of the plateau the spires of villages and the groups of
+trees about them, and to know that somewhere in all this there lay
+concealed a _corps d'arme_--and not to see or hear a soul. The
+only human being that we saw was a man driving a heavy farm cart very
+slowly up a side-way just as we came into the great road which has shot
+dead across this country in one line ever since the Romans built it. As
+we went along that road, leaving the fields, we passed by many men
+indeed, and many houses, all in movement with the early morning; and the
+chalked numbers on the doors, and here and there an empty tin of
+polishing-paste or an order scrawled on paper and tacked to a wall
+betrayed the passage of soldiers. But of the army there was nothing at
+all. Scouting on foot (for that was what it was) is a desperate
+business, and that especially if you have nothing to tell you whether
+you will get in touch in five, or ten, or twenty miles.
+
+It was nine o'clock before a clatter of horse-hoofs came up the road
+behind us. At first my companion and I wondered whether it were the
+first riders of the Dragoons or Cuirassiers. In that case the advance
+was from behind us. But very soon, as the sound grew clearer, we heard
+how few they were, and then there came into view, trotting rapidly, a
+small escort and two officers with the umpires' badges, so there was
+nothing doing; but when, half a mile ahead of us on the road, they
+turned off to the left over plough, we knew that that was the way we
+must follow too. Before we came to the turning-place, before we left the
+road to take the fields on the left, there came from far off and on our
+right the sound of a gun.
+
+It was my companion who heard it first. We strained to hear it again;
+twice we thought we had caught it, and then again twice we doubted. It
+is not so easily recognizable a sound as you might think in those great
+plains cut by islands of high trees and steading walls. The little "75"
+gun lying low makes a different sound altogether at a distance from the
+old piece of "90." At any rate there was here no doubt that there were
+guns to the right and in front of us, and the umpire had gone to the
+left. We were getting towards the thick, and we had only to go straight
+on to find out where the front was.
+
+Just as we had so decided and were still pursuing the high road, there
+came, not half a mile away and again to our right, in a valley below us,
+that curious sound which is like nothing at all unless it be dumping of
+flints out of a cart: rifle fire. It cracked and tore in stretches. Then
+there were little gaps of silence like the gaps in signalling, and then
+it cracked and tore in stretches again; and then, fitfully, one
+individual shot and then another would be heard; and, much further off,
+with little sounds like snaps, the replies began from the hillside
+beyond the stream. So far so good. Here was contact in the valley below
+us, and the guns, some way behind and far off northwards, had opened. So
+we got the hang of it instantly--the front was a sort of a crescent
+lying roughly north and south, and roughly parallel to the great road,
+and the real or feigned mass of the advance was on the extreme left of
+that front. We were in it now, and that anxious and wearing business in
+all hunting, finding, was over; but we had been on foot six mortal hours
+before coming across our luck, and more than half the soldiers' day was
+over. These men had been afoot since three, and certain units on the
+left had already marched over twenty miles.
+
+After that coming in touch with our business, not only did everything
+become plain, but the numbers we met, and what I have called "the thick
+of things," fed us with interest. We passed half the 38th, going down
+the road singing, to extend the line, and in a large village we came to
+the other half, slouching about in the traditional fashion of the
+Service; they had been waiting for an hour. With them, and lined up all
+along the village street, was one battery, with the drivers dismounted,
+and all that body were at ease. There were men sitting on the doorsteps
+of the houses and men trotting to the canteen-wagon or to the village
+shops to buy food; and there were men reading papers which a pedlar had
+brought round. Mud and dust had splashed them all; upon some there was a
+look of great fatigue; they were of all shapes and sizes, and altogether
+it was the sort of sight you would not see in any other service in the
+world. It was the sort of sight which so disgusted the Emperor Joseph
+when he made his little tour to spy out the land before the
+Revolutionary Wars. It was the sort of sight which made Massenbach
+before Grandpr marvel whether the French forces were soldiers at all,
+and the sort of sight which made Valmy inexplicable to the King of
+Prussia and his staff. It was the sort of sight which eighteen months
+later still convinced Mack in Tournai that the Duke of York's plan was a
+plan "of annihilation." It is a trap for judgment is the French service.
+
+So they lounged about and bought bread, and shifted their packs, and so
+the drivers stood by their horses, and so they all waited and slouched;
+until there came, not a man with a bugle nor anything with the slightest
+savour of drama but a little fellow running along thumping in his loose
+leather leggings, who went up to a Major of Artillery and saluted, and
+immediately afterwards the Major put his hand up, and then down a
+village street, from a point which we could not see came a whistle, and
+the whole of that mass of men began to swarm. The grey-blue coats of the
+line swung round the corner of the village street; they had yet a few
+miles before them. Anything more rapid or less in step it would be
+difficult to conceive. The guns were off at a right angle down the main
+road, making a prodigious clatter, and at the same time appeared two
+parties, one of which it was easy to understand, the other not. They
+were both parties of sappers. The one party had a great roll of wire on
+a drum, and as quick as you could think they were unreeling it, and as
+they unreeled it fastening it to eaves, overhanging branches, and to
+corners of walls, stretching it out forward. It was the field-telephone.
+The other party came along carrying great beams upon their shoulders,
+but what they were to do with these beams we did not know.
+
+We followed the tail of the line down into the valley, and all that
+morning long and past the food time at midday, and so till the sun
+declined in the afternoon, we went with the 38th in its gradual success
+from crest to crest. And still the 38th slouched by companies, and mile
+after mile with checks and halts, and it never seemed to get either less
+or more tired. The men had had twelve hours of it when they came at
+last, and we after them, on to the critical position. They had carried
+(together with all the line to left and to the right of them) a string
+of villages which crowned the crest of a further plateau, and over this
+further plateau they were advancing against the main body of the
+resistance--the other army corps which was set up against ours, to
+simulate an enemy.
+
+A railway line ran here across the rolling hedgeless fields, and just at
+the point where my companion and I struck it there was a dip in the land
+and a high embankment which hid the plain beyond; but from that plain
+beyond one heard the separate fire of the advancing line in its
+scattered order. We climbed the embankment, and from its ridge we saw
+over two miles or more of stubble, the little creeping bunches of the
+attack. What was resisting, or where it lay, one could only guess. Some
+hundreds of yards before us to the east, with the sloping sun full on
+it, a line of thicket, one scattered wood and then another, an
+imperceptible lifting of the earth here and there marked the opposing
+firing line. Two pompoms could be spotted exactly, for the flashes were
+clear through the underwood. And still the tide of the advance continued
+to flow, and the little groups came up and fed it, one after another and
+another, in the centre where we were, and far away to the north and
+right away to the south the countryside was alive with it. The action
+was beginning to take on something of that final movement and decision
+which makes the climax of manoeuvres look so great a game. But in a
+little while that general creeping forward was checked: there were
+orders coming from the umpires, and a sort of lull fell over each
+position held. My companion said to me:
+
+"Let us go forward now over the intervening zone and in among Picquart's
+men, and get well behind their line, and see whether there is a rally or
+whether before the end of this day they begin to fall back again."
+
+So we did, walking a mile or so until we had long passed their outposts
+and were behind their forward lines. And standing there, upon a little
+eminence near a wood, we turned and looked over what we had come,
+westward towards the sun which was now not far from its setting. Then it
+was that we saw the last of the Great Sight.
+
+The level light, mellow and already reddening, illumined all that plain
+strangely, and with the absolute stillness of the air contrasted the
+opening of the guns which had been brought up to support the renewal of
+the attack. We saw the isolated woods standing up like islands with low
+steep cliffs, dotted in a sea of stubble for miles and miles, and first
+from the cover of one and then from another the advance perpetually,
+piercing and deploying. As we so watched there buzzed high above us,
+like a great hornet, a biplane, circling well within our lines, beyond
+attack from the advance, but overlooking all they concealed behind it.
+In a few minutes a great Bleriot monoplane like a hawk followed, yet
+further inwards. The two great birds shot round in an arc, parallel to
+the firing line, and well behind it, and in a few minutes, that seemed
+seconds, they were dots to the south and then lost in the air. And
+perpetually, as the sun declined, Picquart's men were falling back north
+and south of us and before us, and the advance continued. Group by group
+we saw it piercing this hedge, that woodland, now occupying a nearer and
+a nearer roll of land. It was the greatest thing imaginable: this
+enormous sweep of men, the dead silence of the air, and the
+comparatively slight contrast of the ceaseless pattering rifle fire and
+the slight intermittent accompaniment of the advancing batteries; until
+the sun set and all this human business slackened. Then for the first
+time one heard bugles, which were a command to cease the game.
+
+I would not have missed that day nor lose the memories of it for
+anything in the world.
+
+
+
+
+The Decline of a State
+
+
+The decline of a State is not equivalent to a mortal sickness therein.
+States are organisms subject to diseases and to decay as are the
+organisms of men's bodies; but they are not subject to a rhythmic rise
+and fall as is the body of a man. A State in its decline is never a
+State doomed or a State dying. States perish slowly or by violence, but
+never without remedy and rarely without violence.
+
+The decline of a State differs with the texture of it. A democratic
+State will decline from a lowering of its potential, that is of its
+ever-ready energy to act in a crisis, to correct and to control its
+servants in common times, to watch them narrowly and suspect them at all
+times. A despotic State will decline when the despot is not in point of
+fact the true depository of despotic power, but some other acting in his
+name, of whom the people know little and cannot judge; or when the
+despot, though fully in view and recognized, lacks will; or when (which
+is rare) he is so inhuman as to miss the general sense of his subjects.
+An oligarchic State, or aristocracy as it is called, will decline
+principally through two agencies which are, first, illusion, and
+secondly, lack of civic aptitude. For an oligarchic State tends very
+readily to illusion, being conducted by men who live at leisure, satisfy
+their passions, are immune from the laws, and prefer to shield
+themselves from reality. Their capacity or appetite for illusion will
+rapidly pervade those below them, for in an aristocracy the rulers are
+subjected to a sort of worship from the rest of the community, and thus
+it comes about that aristocracies in their decline accept fantastic
+histories of their own past, conceive victory possible without armies,
+wealth to be an indication of ability, and national security to be a
+natural gift rather than a product of the will. Such communities further
+fail from the lack of civic aptitude, as was said above, which means
+that they deliberately elect to leave the mass of citizens incompetent
+and irresponsible for generations, so that, when any more strain is upon
+them, they look at once for some men other than themselves to relieve
+them, and are incapable of corporate action upon their own account.
+
+The decline of a State differs also according to whether it be a great
+State or a small one, for in the first indifference, in the latter
+faction, are a peril, and in the first ignorance, in the latter private
+spite.
+
+Then again, the decline of a State will differ according to whether its
+strength is rooted originally in commerce, in arms, or in production;
+and if in production, then whether in the production of the artisan or
+in that of the peasant. If arms be the basis of the State, then that the
+army should become professional and apart is a symptom of decline and a
+cause of it; if commerce, the substitution of hazards and imaginaries
+for the transport of real goods and the search after real demand; if
+production, the discontent or apathy of the producer; as with peasants
+an ill system in the taxation of the land or in the things necessary for
+its tillage, such as a misgovernment of its irrigation in a dry country;
+the permission of private exactions and tolls in a fertile one; the
+toleration of thieves and forestallers, and so forth. Artisans, upon the
+other hand, may well flourish, though the State be corrupt in such
+matters, but they must be secured in a high wage and be given a vast
+liberty of protest, for if they sink to be slaves in fact, they will
+from the nature of their toil grow both weak and foolish. Yet is not the
+State endangered by the artisan's throwing off a refuse of ill-paid and
+starving men who are either too many for the work or unskilful at it?
+Such an excretion would poison a peasantry, remaining in their body as
+it were, but artisans are purged thereby. This refuse it is for the
+State to decide upon. It may in an artisan State be used for soldiery
+(since such States commonly maintain but small armies and are commonly
+indifferent to military glory), or it may be set to useful labour, or
+again, destroyed; but this last use is repugnant to humanity, and so in
+the long run hurtful to the State.
+
+In the decline of a State, of whatever nature that State be, two vices
+will immediately appear and grow: these are Avarice and Fear; and men
+will more readily accept the imputation of Avarice than of Fear, for
+Avarice is the less despicable of the two--yet in fact Fear will be by
+far the strongest passion of the time.
+
+Avarice will show itself not indeed in a mere greed of gain (for this is
+common to all societies whether flourishing or failing), but rather in a
+sort of taking for granted and permeation of the mere love of money, so
+that history will be explained by it, wars judged by their booty or
+begun in order to enrich a few, love between men and women wholly
+subordinated to it, especially among the rich: wealth made a test for
+responsibility and great salaries invented and paid to those who serve
+the State. This vice will also be apparent in the easy acquaintance of
+all who are possessed of wealth and their segregation from the less
+fortunate, for avarice cleaves society flatways, keeping the scum of it
+quite clear of the middle, the middle of it quite clear of the dregs,
+and so forth. It is a further mark of avarice in its last stages that
+the rich are surrounded with lies in which they themselves believe.
+Thus, in the last phase, there are no parasites but only friends, no
+gifts but only loans, which are more esteemed favours than gifts once
+were. No one vicious but only tedious, and no one a poltroon but only
+slack.
+
+Of Fear in the decline of a State it may be said that it is so much the
+master passion of such decline as to eat up all others. Coming by travel
+from a healthy State to one diseased, Fear is the first point you take.
+Men dare not print or say what they feel of the judges, the public
+governors, the action of the police, the controllers of fortunes and of
+news. This Fear will have about it something comic, providing infinite
+joy to the foreigner, and modifying with laughter the lament of the
+patriot. A miserable hack that never had a will of his own, but ran to
+do what he was told for twenty years at the bidding of his masters,
+being raised to the Bench will be praised for an impartial virtue more
+than human. A drunken fellow, the son of a drunkard, having stolen
+control over some half-dozen sheets, must be named under the breath or
+not at all. A powerful minister may be accused with sturdy courage of
+something which he did not do and no one would mind his doing, but under
+the influence of Fear, to tell the least little truth about him will put
+a whole assembly into a sort of blankness.
+
+This vice has for its most laughable effect the raising of a whole host
+of phantoms, and when a State is so far gone that civic Fear is quite
+normal to the citizens, then you will find them blenching with terror at
+a piece of print, a whispered accusation. Bankruptcy, though they be
+possessed of nothing, and even the ill-will of women. Moneylenders under
+this influence have the greatest power, next after them, blackmailers of
+all kinds, and next after these eccentrics who may blurt or break out.
+Those who have least power in the decline of a State, are priests,
+soldiers, the mothers of many children, the lovers of one woman, and
+saints.
+
+
+
+
+On Past Greatness
+
+
+There lies in the North-East of France, close against the Belgian
+frontier and within cannon shot of the famous battlefield of Malplaquet,
+a little town called Bavai--I have written of it elsewhere.
+
+Coming into this little town you seem to be entering no more than a
+decent, unimportant market borough, a larger village meant for country
+folk, perhaps without a history and certainly without fame.
+
+As you come to look about you one thing after another enlivens your
+curiosity and suggests something at once enormous and remote in the
+destinies of the place.
+
+In the first place, seven great roads go out like the seven rays of a
+star, plumb straight, darting along the line, across the vast, bare
+fields of Flanders, past and along the many isolated woods of the
+provinces, and making to great capitals far off--to Cologne, to Paris,
+to Treves, and to the ports of the sea.
+
+These roads are deserted in great part. Some of them are metalled in
+certain sections, and again in other sections are no more than lanes,
+and again no more than footpaths, as you proceed along their miles of
+way; but their exact design awfully impresses the mind. You know, as you
+follow such strict alignment, that you are fulfilling the majestic
+purpose of Imperial Rome. It was the Romans that made these things.
+
+Then, intrigued and excited by such remains of greatness, you read what
+you can of the place.... And you find nothing but a dust of legend. You
+find a story that once here a king, filled with ambition and worshipping
+strange gods, thrust out these great roads to the ends of the earth;
+desired his capital to be a hub and navel for the world. He put them
+under the protection of the seven planets and of the deities of those
+stars. Three he paved with black marble and four with white marble, and
+where they met upon the market place he put up a golden terminal. There
+the legend ends.
+
+It is only legend--a true product of the Dark Ages, when all that Rome
+had done rose like a huge dream in the mind of Europe and took on
+gorgeous and fantastic colouring. You learn (for the rest) very
+little--that ornaments and money have been found dating from two
+thousand years, that once great walls surrounded the place. It must have
+had noble buildings and solemn courts. In strict history all you will
+discover is that it was the capital of that tribe, the Nervii, against
+whom Caesar fought, and whose territory was early conquered for the
+Empire. You will find nothing more. There is no living tradition, there
+is no voice; the little town is dumb.
+
+The place is a figure, and a striking one, of greatness long dead, and a
+man visiting its small domestic interests to-day, and noting its
+comfort, its humility, and its sleep, is reminded of many things
+attaching to human fame. It would seem as though the ambitions of men,
+and that exalted appetite for glory which has produced the chief things
+of this world, suffer the effect of time somewhat as the body of an
+animal slain will suffer that.
+
+One part of the organism and then another decays and mixes back with
+nature. The effect of will has vanished. The thing is a prey to all that
+environment which, once alive, it combated, conquered, and transformed
+to its own use. One portion after another is lost, until at last only
+the most resisting stands--the skeleton and hard framework, the least
+expressive, the least personal part of the whole. This also decays and
+perishes. Then there remains no more but a score of hardened fragments
+that linger in their place, and what has passed away is fortunate if
+even the slightest or most fantastic legend of itself survives.
+
+The great dead are first forgotten in their physical habit; we lose the
+nature of their voices, we forget their sympathies and their affections.
+Bit by bit all that they intended to be eternal slips back into the
+common thing around. A blurred image, growing fainter and fainter,
+lingers. At last the person vanishes, and in its place some public
+raising material things--a monument, a tomb, an ornament, or weapon of
+enduring metal--is all that remains.
+
+If it were possible for the spring of appetite and quest to be dried up
+in man, such a spectacle would dry up that spring.
+
+It is not possible, for it is providentially in the nature of man to
+cherish these illusions of an immortal memory and of a life bestowed
+upon the shade or the mere name of his living greatness. Those various
+forms of fame which are young men's goals, and to which the eager
+creative power of early manhood so properly directs itself, seem each in
+turn or each for its varying temperament to promise the desired reward;
+and one imagines that his love, another that his discoveries, another
+that his victories in the field or his conspicuous acts of courage will
+remain permanently with his fellows long after he has left their feast.
+
+As though to give some substance to the flattering cheat, there is one
+kind of fame which men have been permitted to attain, and which does
+give them a sort of fixed tenure--if not for ever, yet for generations
+upon generations--in the human city. This sort of fame is the fame of
+the great poets. There is nothing more enduring. It has for some who
+were most blessed outlasted, you may say, all material things which they
+handled or they knew--all fabrics, all instruments, all habitations. It
+is comparable in its endurance to the years, and a man reads the "Song
+of Roland" and can still look on that same unchanged Cleft of
+Roncesvalles, or a man reads the Iliad and can look to-day westward from
+the shores to Tenedos. But wait a moment. Are they indeed blessed in
+this, the great poets? Ronsard debated it. He decided that they were,
+and put into the mouth of the muses the great lines:----
+
+ Mais un tel accident n'arrive point a l'me,
+ Qui sans matire vist immortelle l haut.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ Vela saigement dit, Ceux dont la fantaisie
+ Sera religieuse et devote envers Dieu
+ Tousjours acheveront quelque grand posie,
+ Et dessus leur renom la Parque n'aura lieu.
+
+But the matter is still undecided.
+
+
+
+
+Mr. The Duke: The Man of Malplaquet
+
+
+On the field of Malplaquet, that battlefield, I met a man.
+
+He was pointed out to me as a man who drove travellers to Bavai. His
+name was Mr. The Duke, and he was very poor.
+
+If he comes across these lines (which is exceedingly unlikely) I offer
+him my apologies. Anyhow, I can write about him freely, for he is not
+rich, and, what is more, the laws of his country permit the telling of
+the truth about our fellow-men, even when they are rich.
+
+Mr. The Duke was of some years, and his colour was that of cedar wood. I
+met him in his farmyard, and I said to him:
+
+"Is it you, sir, that drive travellers to Bavai?"
+
+"No," said he.
+
+Accustomed by many years of travel to this type of response, I
+continued:
+
+"How much do you charge?"
+
+"Two francs fifty," said he.
+
+"I will give you three francs," I said, and when I had said this he
+shook his head and replied:
+
+"You fall at an evil moment; I was about to milk the cows." Having said
+this he went to harness the horse.
+
+When the horse was harnessed to his little cart (it was an extremely
+small horse, full of little bones and white in colour, with one eye
+stronger than the other) he gave it to his little daughter to hold, and
+himself sat down to table, proposing a meal.
+
+"It is but humble fare," he said, "for we are poor."
+
+This sounded familiar to me; I had both read and heard it before. The
+meal was of bread and butter, pasty and beer, for Malplaquet is a
+country of beer and not of wine.
+
+As he sat at table the old man pointed out to me that contraband across
+the Belgian frontier, which is close by, was no longer profitable.
+
+"The Fraud," he said, "is no longer a living for anyone."
+
+Upon that frontier contraband is called "The Fraud"; it holds an
+honourable place as a career.
+
+"The Fraud," he continued, "has gone long ago; it has burst. It is no
+longer to be pursued. There is not even any duty upon apples.... But
+there is a duty upon pears. Had I a son I would not put him into The
+Fraud.... Sometimes there is just a chance here and there.... One can
+pick up an occasion. But take it all in all (and here he wagged his head
+solemnly) there is nothing in it any more."
+
+I said that I had no experience of contraband professionally, but that I
+knew a very honest man who lived by it in the country of Andorra, and
+that according to my morals a man had a perfect right to run the risk
+and take his chance, for there was no contract between him and the power
+he was trying to get round. This announcement pleased the old gentleman,
+but it did not grip his mind. He was of your practical sort. He was
+almost a Pragmatist. Abstractions wearied him. He put no faith in the
+reality of ideas. I think he was a Nominalist like Abelard: and whatever
+excuse you may make for him, Abelard was a Nominalist right enough, for
+it was the intellectual thing to be at the time, though St. Bernard
+utterly confuted him in arguments of enormous length and incalculable
+boredom.
+
+The old man, then, I say, would have nothing to do with first
+principles, and he reasserted his position that, in the concrete, in the
+existent world, The Fraud no longer paid.
+
+This said for the sixth or seventh time, he drank some brandy to put
+heart into him and climbed up into his little cart, I by his side. He
+hit the white horse with a stick, making at the same time an
+extraordinary shrill noise with his mouth, like a siren, and the horse
+began to slop and sludge very dolefully towards Bavai.
+
+"This horse," said Mr. The Duke, "is a wonderfully good horse. He goes
+like the wind. He is of Arab extraction, and comes from Africa."
+
+With these words he gave the horse another huge blow with his stick, and
+once more emitted his piercing cry. The horse went neither faster nor
+slower than before, and seemed very indifferent to the whole
+performance.
+
+"He is from Africa," said Mr. The Duke again, meditatively. "Do you know
+Africa?"
+
+Africa with the French populace means Algiers. I answered that I knew
+it, and that in particular I knew the road southward from Constantine.
+At this he looked very pleased, and said:
+
+"I was a soldier in Africa. I deserted seven times."
+
+To this I made no answer. I did not know how he wanted me to take it, so
+I waited until he should speak again, which he soon did, and said:
+
+"The last time I deserted I was free for a year and a half. I used to
+conduct beasts; that was my trade. When they caught me I was to have
+been shot. I was saved by the tears of a woman!"
+
+Having said this the old man pulled out a very small pipe and filled it
+with exceedingly black tobacco. He lit it, then he began talking again
+rather more excitedly.
+
+"It is a terrible thing and an unhappy thing none the less," he went on,
+"that a man should be taken out to be shot and should be saved by the
+tears of a woman." Then he added, "Of what use are wars? How foolish it
+is that men should kill each other! If there were a war I would not
+fight. Would you?"
+
+I said I thought I would; but whether I should like to or not would
+depend upon the war.
+
+He was eager to contradict and to tell me that war was wrong and stupid.
+Having behind him the logical training of fifteen Christian centuries he
+was in no way muddle-headed upon the matter. He saw very well that his
+doctrine meant that it was wrong to have a country, and wrong to love
+it, and that patriotism was all bosh, and that no ideal was worth
+physical pain or trouble. To such conclusions had he come at the end of
+his life.
+
+The white horse meanwhile slouched; Bavai grew somewhat nearer as we sat
+in silence after his last sentence. He was turning many things over in
+his mind. He veered off on to political economy.
+
+"When the rich man at the Manufactory here, the place where they sell
+phosphates for the land, when he stands beer to all the workmen and to
+the countryside, I always say, 'Fools! All this will be put on to the
+cost of the phosphates; they will cost you more!'"
+
+Mr. The Duke did not accept John Stuart Mill's proposition upon the cost
+of production nor the general theories of Ricardo upon which Mill's
+propositions were based. In his opinion rent was a factor in the cost of
+production, for he told me that butter had gone up because the price of
+land was rising near the towns. In what he next said I found out that he
+was not a Collectivist, for he said a man should own enough to live
+upon, but he said that this was impossible if rich people were allowed
+to live. I asked him what the politics of the countryside were and how
+people voted. He said:
+
+"The politicians trick the people. They are a heap of worthlessness."
+
+I asked him if he voted, and he said "yes." He said there was only one
+way to vote, but I did not understand what this meant.
+
+Had time served I should have asked him further questions--upon the
+nature of the soul, its ultimate fate, the origin of man and his
+destiny, whether mortal or immortal; the proper constitution of the
+State, the choice of the legislator, the prince, and the magistrate; the
+function of art, whether it is subsidiary or primary in human life; the
+family; marriage. Upon the State he had already informed me, and also
+upon the institution of property, and upon his view of armies. Upon all
+those other things he would equally have given me a clear reply, for he
+was a man that knew his own mind, and that is more than most people can
+say.
+
+But we were now in Bavai, and I had no time to discover more. We drank
+together before we parted, and I was very pleased to see the honest look
+in his face. With more leisure and born to greater opportunities he
+would have been talked about, this Man of Malplaquet. He had come to his
+odd conclusions as the funny people do in Scandinavia and in Russia, and
+among the rich intellectuals and usurers in London and Berlin; but he
+was a jollier man than they are, for he could drive a horse and lie
+about it, and he could also milk a cow. As we parted he used a phrase
+that wounded me, and which I had only heard once before in my life. He
+said:
+
+"We shall never see each other again!"
+
+Another man had once said this thing to me before. This man was a farmer
+in the Northumbrian hills, who walked with me a little way in the days
+when I was going over Carter Fell to find the Scots people, many, many
+years ago. He also said: "We shall never meet again!"
+
+
+
+
+The Game of Cards
+
+
+A youth of no more than twenty-three years entered a first-class
+carriage at the famous station of Swindon in the county of Wiltshire,
+proposing to travel to the uttermost parts of the West and to enjoy a
+comfortable loneliness while he ruminated upon all things human and
+divine; when he was sufficiently annoyed to discover that in the further
+corner of the carriage was sitting an old gentleman of benevolent
+appearance, or at any rate a gentleman of benevolent appearance who
+appeared in his youthful eyes to be old.
+
+For though the old gentleman was, as a fact, but sixty, yet his virile
+beard had long gone white and the fringes of hair attaching to his
+ostrich egg of a head confirmed his venerable appearance.
+
+When the train had started the young man proceeded in no very good
+temper and with great solemnity to fill a pipe. He turned to his senior,
+who was watching him in a very paternal and happy manner, and said
+formally:
+
+"I hope you do not mind my smoking, sir?"
+
+"Not at all," said the old boy; "it is a habit I have long grown
+accustomed to in others."
+
+The young man bowed in a somewhat absurd fashion and felt for his
+matches. He discovered to his no small mortification that he had none.
+He was so used to his pipe after a meal that he really could not forgo
+it. He came off his perch by at least three steps and asked the old man
+very gently whether he had any matches.
+
+The older man produced a box and at the same time brought out with it a
+little notebook and a playing card which happened to be in his pocket.
+The young man took the matches and lit his pipe, surveying the old man
+the while with a more complacent eye.
+
+"It is very kind of you, sir," he said a little less stiffly. He handed
+back the matches, wrapped his rug round his legs, sat down in his place,
+and knowing that one should prolong the conversation for a moment or two
+after a favour, said: "I see that you play cards."
+
+"I do," said the old man simply; "would you like a game?"
+
+"I don't mind," said the young man, who had always heard that it was
+unmanly and ridiculous to refuse a game of cards in a railway carriage.
+
+The elder man laughed merrily in his strong beard as he saw his junior
+begin to spread somewhat awkwardly a copy of a newspaper upon his knees.
+"I'll show you a trick worth two of that," he said, and taking one of
+the first-class cushions, which alone of railway cushions are movable
+from its place, he came over to the corner opposite the young man and
+made a table of the cushion between them. "Now," said he genially,
+"what's it to be?"
+
+"Well," said the young man like one who expounds new mysteries, "do you
+know piquet?"
+
+"Oh, yes," said his companion with another happy little laugh of
+contentment with the world. "I'll take you on. What shall it be?"
+
+"Pennies if you like," said the young man nonchalantly.
+
+"Very well, and double for the Rubicon."
+
+"How do you mean?" said the young man, puzzled.
+
+"You will see," said the old man, and they began to play.
+
+The game was singularly absorbing. At first the young man won a few
+pounds; then he lost rather heavily, then he won again, but not quite
+enough to recoup. Then in the fourth game he won, so that he was a
+little ahead, and meanwhile the old man chatted merrily during the
+discarding or the shuffling: during the shuffling especially. He looked
+out towards the downs with something of a sigh at one moment, and said:
+
+"It's a happy world."
+
+"Yes," answered the younger man with the proper lugubriousness of youth,
+"but it all comes to an end."
+
+"It isn't its coming to an end," said the elder man, declaring a point
+of six, "that's not the tragedy; it's the little bits coming to an end
+meanwhile, before the whole comes to an end: that's the tragedy...." But
+he added with another of his jolly laughs: "We must play. Piquet takes
+up all one's grey matter."
+
+They played and the young man lost again, but by a very narrow margin:
+it was quite an absorbing game. As they shuffled again the young man
+said:
+
+"What did you mean by the little bits stopping, or whatever it was?"
+
+"Oh," said the old man as though he couldn't remember, and then he
+added: "Oh, yes, I mean you'll find, as you grow older, people die and
+affections change, and, though it seems silly to mention it in company
+with higher things, there's what Shelley called the 'contagion of the
+world's slow stain.'"
+
+Then their conversation was interrupted by the ardour of the game; but
+as they played the young man was ruminating, and he had come to the
+conclusion that his senior was imperfectly educated and was probably of
+the middle classes, whereas he himself was destined to be a naval
+architect, and with that object had recently left the university for an
+office in the city. The young man thought that a man properly educated
+would never quote a tag: he was wrong there. As he had allowed his
+thoughts to wander somewhat the young man lost that game rather heavily,
+and at the end of it he was altogether about ten shillings to the bad.
+It was his turn to shuffle. The older man was at leisure to speak, and
+did so rather dreamily as he gazed at the landscape again.
+
+"Things change, you know," he said, "and there is the contagion of the
+world's slow stain. One gets preoccupied: especially about money. When
+men marry they get very much preoccupied upon that point. It's bad for
+them, but it can't be helped."
+
+"You cut," said the young man.
+
+His elder cut and they played again. This time as they played their game
+the old man broke his rule of silence and continued his observations
+interruptedly:
+
+"Four kings," he said.... "It isn't that a man gets to think money
+all-important, it is that he has to think of it all the time.... No,
+three queens are no good. I said four kings.... four knaves.... The
+little losses of money don't affect one, but perpetual trouble about it
+does, and" (closing up the majority of tricks which he had just gained)
+"many a man goes on making more year after year and yet feels himself in
+peril.... _And_ the last trick." He took up the cards to shuffle
+them. "Towards the very end of life," he continued, "it gets less, I
+suppose, but you'll feel the burden of it." He put the pack over for the
+younger man to cut. When that was done he dealt them out slowly. As he
+dealt he said: "One feels the loss of little material things: objects to
+which one was attached, a walking-stick, or a ring, or a watch which one
+has carried for years. Your declare."
+
+The young man declared, and that game was played in silence. I regret to
+say that the young man was Rubiconed, and was thirty shillings in the
+elder's debt.
+
+"We'll stop if you like" said the elder man kindly.
+
+"Oh, no," said the youth with nonchalance, "I'll pay you now if you
+like."
+
+"Not at all, I didn't mean that," said the older man with a sudden prick
+of honour.
+
+"Oh, but I will, and we'll start fair again," said the young man.
+Whereupon he handed over his combined losses in gold, the older man gave
+him change, they shuffled again, and they went on with their play.
+
+"After all," said the older man, musing as he confessed to a point of no
+more than five, "it's all in the day's work.... It's just a day's work,"
+he repeated with a saddened look in his eyes, "it's a game that one
+plays like this game, and then when it's over it's over. It's the little
+losses that count."
+
+That game again was unfortunate for the young man, and he had to shell
+out fifteen and six. But the brakes were applied, Bristol was reached,
+the train came to a standstill, and the young man, looking up a little
+confused and hurried, said: "Hello, Bristol! I get out here."
+
+"So do I," said the older man. They both stood up together, and the jolt
+of the train as it stopped dead threw them into each other's arms.
+
+"I am really very sorry," said the youth.
+
+"It's my fault," said the old chap like a good fellow, "I ought to have
+caught hold. You get out and I'll hand you your bag."
+
+"It's very kind of you," said the young man. He was really flattered by
+so much attention, but he knew himself what a good companion he was and
+he could understand it; besides which they had made friends during that
+little journey. He always liked a man to whom he had lost some money in
+an honest game.
+
+There was a heavy crowd upon the platform, and two men barging up out of
+it saluted the old man boisterously by the name of Jack. He twinkled at
+them with his eyes as he began moving the luggage about, and stood for a
+moment in the doorway with his own bag in his right hand and the young
+man's bag in his left. The young man so saw it for an instant, a fine
+upstanding figure--he saw his bag handed by some mistake to the second
+of the old man's friends, a porter came by at the moment pushing through
+the crowd with a trolley, an old lady made a scene, the porter
+apologized, the crowd took sides, some for the porter, some for the old
+lady; the young man, with the deference of his age, politely asked
+several people to make way, but when he had emerged from the struggle
+his companion, his companion's friends, and his own bag could not be
+found; or at any rate he could not make out where they were in the great
+mass that pushed and surged upon the platform.
+
+He made himself a little conspicuous by asking too many questions and by
+losing his temper twice with people who had done him no harm, when, just
+as his excitement was growing more than querulous, a very heavy,
+stupid-looking man in regulation boots tapped him on the shoulder and
+said: "Follow me." He was prepared with an oath by way of reply, but
+another gentleman of equal weight, wearing boots of the same pattern,
+linked his arm in his and between them they marched him away, to a
+little private closet opening out of the stationmaster's room.
+
+"Now, sir," said he who had first tapped him on the shoulder, "be good
+enough to explain your movements."
+
+"I don't know what you mean," said the young man.
+
+"You were in the company," said the older man severely, "of an old man,
+bald, with a white beard and a blue sailor suit. He had come from
+London; you joined him at Swindon. We have evidence that he was to be
+met at this station and it will be to your advantage if you make a clean
+breast of it."
+
+The young man was violent and he was borne away.
+
+But he had friends at Bristol. He gave his references and he was
+released. To this day he believes that he suffered not from folly, but
+from injustice. He did not see his bag again, but after all it contained
+no more than his evening clothes, for which he had paid or rather owed
+six guineas, four shirts, as many collars and dress ties, a
+silver-mounted set of brushes and combs, and useless cut-glass bottles,
+a patented razor, a stick of shaving soap, and two very, very
+confidential letters which he treasured. His watch, of course, was gone,
+but not, I am glad to say, his chain, which hung dangling, though in his
+flurry he had not noticed it. It made him look a trifle ridiculous. As
+he wore no tie-pin he had not lost that, and beyond his temper he had
+indeed lost nothing further save, possibly, a textbook upon
+Thermodynamics. This book he _thought_ he remembered having put
+into the bag, and if he had it belonged to his library, but he could not
+quite remember this point, and when the Library claimed it he stoutly
+disputed their claim.
+
+In this dispute he was successful, but it was the only profit he made
+out of that journey, unless we are to count his experience, and
+experience, as all the world knows, is a thing that men must buy.
+
+
+
+
+"King Lear"
+
+
+The great unity which was built up two thousand years ago and was
+called Christendom in its final development split and broke in pieces.
+The various civilizations of its various provinces drifted apart, and it
+will be for the future historian to say at what moment the isolation of
+each from all was farthest pushed. It is certain that that point is
+passed.
+
+In the task of reuniting what was broken--it is the noblest work a
+modern man can do--the very first mechanical act must be to explain one
+national soul to another. That act is not final. The nations of Europe,
+now so divided, still have more in common than those things by which
+they differ, and it is certain that when they have at last revealed to
+them their common origin they will return to it. They will return to it,
+perhaps, under the pressure of war waged by some not Christian
+civilization, but they will return. In the meanwhile, of those acts not
+final, yet of immediate necessity in the task of establishing unity, is
+the act of introducing one national soul to another.
+
+Now this is best accomplished in a certain way which I will describe.
+You will take that part in the letters of a nation which you maturely
+judge most or best to reflect the full national soul, with its
+qualities, careless of whether these be great or little; you will take
+such a work as reproduces for you as you read it, not only in its
+sentiment, but in its very rhythm, the stuff and colour of the nation;
+this you will present to the foreigner, who cannot understand. His
+efforts must be laborious, very often unfruitful, but where it is
+fruitful it will be of a decisive effect.
+
+Thus let anyone take some one of the immortal things that Racine wrote
+and show them to an Englishman. He will hardly ever be able to make
+anything of it at first. Here and there some violently emotional passage
+may faintly touch him, but the mass of the verse will seem to him dead.
+Now, if by constant reading, by association with those who know what
+Racine is, he at last sees him--and these changes in the mind come very
+suddenly--he will see into the soul of Gaul. For the converse task,
+to-day not equally difficult but once almost impossible, of presenting
+England to the French intelligence--or, indeed, to any other alien
+intelligence--you may choose the play "King Lear."
+
+That play has every quality which does reflect the soul of the community
+in which and for which it was written. Note a few in their order.
+
+First, it is not designed to its end; at least it is not designed
+accurately to its end; it is written as a play and it is meant to be
+acted as a play, and it is the uniform opinion of those versed in plays
+and in acting that in its full form it could hardly be presented, while
+in any form it is the hardest even of Shakespeare's plays to perform.
+Here you have a parallel with a thousand mighty English things to which
+you can turn. Is there not institution after institution to decide on,
+so lacking a complete fitness to its end, larger in a way than the end
+it is to serve, and having, as it were, a life of its own which proceeds
+apart from its effect? This quality which makes so many English things
+growths rather than instruments is most evident in the great play.
+
+Again, it has that quality which Voltaire noted, which he thought
+abnormal in Shakespeare, but which is the most national characteristic
+in him, that a sort of formlessness, if it mars the framework of the
+thing and spoils it, yet also permits the exercise of an immeasurable
+vitality. When a man has read "King Lear" and lays down the book he is
+like one who has been out in one of those empty English uplands in a
+storm by night. It is written as though the pen bred thoughts. It is
+possible to conjecture as one reads, and especially in the diatribes,
+that the pen itself was rapid and the brain too rapid for the pen. One
+feels the rush of the air. Now, this quality is to be discovered in the
+literature of many nations, but never with the fullness which it has in
+the literature of England. And note that in those phases of the national
+life when foreign models have constrained this instinct of expansion in
+English verse, they never have restrained it for long, and that even
+through the bonds established by those models the instinct of expansion
+breaks. You see it in the exuberance of Dryden and in the occasional
+running rhetoric of Pope, until it utterly loosens itself with the end
+of the eighteenth century.
+
+The play is national, again, in that permanent curiosity upon knowable
+things--nay, that mysterious half-knowledge of unknowable things--which,
+in its last forms, produced the mystic, and which is throughout history
+so plainly characteristic of these Northern Atlantic islands. Every play
+of Shakespeare builds with that material, and no writer, even of the
+English turn, has sent out points further into the region of what is not
+known than Shakespeare has in sudden flashes of phrase. But "King Lear,"
+though it contains a lesser number of lines of this mystical and
+half-religious effect than, say, "Hamlet," yet as a general impression
+is the more mystical of the two plays. The element of madness, which in
+"Hamlet" hangs in the background like a storm-cloud ready to break, in
+"King Lear" rages; and it is the use of this which lends its amazing
+psychical power to the play. It has been said (with no great profundity
+of criticism) that English fiction is chiefly remarkable for its power
+of particularization of character, and that where French work, for
+instance, will present ideas, English will present persons. The judgment
+is grossly insufficient, and therefore false, but it is based upon a
+proof which is very salient in English letters, which is that, say, in
+quite short and modern work the sense of complete unity deadens the
+English mind. The same nerve which revolts at a straight road and at a
+code of law revolts against one tone of thought, and the sharp contrast
+of emotional character, not the dual contrast which is common to all
+literatures, but the multiple contrast, runs through "King Lear" and
+gives the work such a tone that one seems as one reads it to be moving
+in a cloud.
+
+The conclusion is perhaps Shakespearean rather than English, and in a
+fashion escapes from any national labelling. But the note of silence
+which Shakespeare suddenly brings in upon the turmoil, and with which he
+is so fond of completing what he has done, would not be possible were
+not that spirit of expansion and of a kind of literary adventurousness
+present in all that went before.
+
+It is indeed this that makes the play so memorable. And it may not be
+fantastic to repeat and expand what has been said above in other words,
+namely, that King Lear has something about him which seems to be a
+product of English landscape and of English weather, and if its general
+movement is a storm its element is one of those sudden silences that
+come sometimes with such magical rapidity after the booming of the wind.
+
+
+
+
+The Excursion
+
+
+It is so old a theme that I really hesitate to touch it; and yet it is
+so true and so useful that I will. It is true all the time, and it is
+particularly useful at this season of the year to men in cities: to all
+repetitive men: to the men that read these words. What is more, true as
+it is and useful as it is, no amount of hammering at people seems to get
+this theme into their practice; though it has long ago entered into
+their convictions they will not act upon it in their summers. And this
+true and useful theme is the theme of little freedoms and discoveries,
+the value of getting loose and away by a small trick when you want to
+get your glimpse of Fairyland.
+
+Now how does one get loose and away?
+
+When a man says to himself that he must have a holiday he means that he
+must see quite new things that are also old: he desires to open that
+door which stood wide like a window in childhood and is now shut fast.
+But where are the new things that are also the old? Paradoxical fellows
+who deserve drowning tell one that they are at our very doors. Well,
+that is true of the eager mind, but the mind is no longer eager when it
+is in need of a holiday. And you can get at the new things that are also
+the old by way of drugs, but drugs are a poor sort of holiday fabric. If
+you have stored up your memory well with much experience you can get
+these things from your memory--but only in a pale sort of way.
+
+I think the best avenue to recreation by the magical impressions of the
+world upon the mind is this: To go to some place to which the common
+road leads you and then to get just off the common road. You will be
+astonished to find how strange the world becomes in the first mile--and
+how strange it remains till the common road is reached again.
+
+It always sounds like a mockery for a man who has travelled to a great
+many places, as I have, to advise his fellows to travel abroad; they are
+most of them hard tied. Yet it is really a much easier thing than men
+bound to the desk and the workshop understand. Britain is but one great
+port, and its inward seas are narrow--and the fares are ridiculously
+low. If you are a young man you can go almost anywhere for almost
+anything, sitting up by night on deck, and not expecting too much
+courtesy. But, of course, if you shirk the sea you are a prisoner.
+
+Well, then, supposing you abroad, or even in some other part of this
+highly varied kingdom in which you live, and supposing you to have
+reached some chosen place by some common road--what I desire to dilate
+upon here is the truth which every little excursion of business or of
+leisure (and precious few of leisure) makes me more certain of every
+day: That just a little way off the road is fairyland.
+
+It was exactly three days ago that I had occasion to go down the railway
+line that is the most frequented in Europe: I was on business, not
+leisure, but in the business I had two days' leisure, and I did what I
+would advise all other men to do in such a circumstance.
+
+I took a train to nowhere, fixing my starting-point thus:--
+
+I first looked at the map and saw where nearest to me was a
+quadrilateral bare of railways. This formula, to look for a
+quadrilateral bare of railways, is a very useful formula for the man who
+is seeking another world. Then I fixed at random upon one little
+roadside station upon the main line; I determined to get out there and
+to walk aimlessly and westward until I should strike the other side of
+the quadrilateral. I made no plan, not even of the hours of the day.
+
+I came into my roadside station at half-past eight of the long summer
+night, broad daylight that is, but with night advancing. I got out and
+began my westward march. At once there crowded upon me any number of
+unexpected and entertaining things!
+
+The first thing I found was a street which was used by horses as well as
+by men, and yet was made up of broad steps. It was a sort of stair-case
+going up a hill. At the top of it I found a woman leading a child by the
+hand. I asked her the name of the steps. She told me they were called
+"The Steps of St. John."
+
+A quarter of a mile further down the narrow lane I saw to my
+astonishment an enormous castle, ruined and open to the sky. There are
+many such ruins famous in Europe, but of this one I had never even
+heard. I went lonely under the evening and looked at its main gate and
+saw on it a moulded escutcheon, carved, and the motto in French,
+"Henceforward," which word made me think a great deal, but resolved no
+problem in my mind.
+
+I went on again westward as the darkness fell and saw what I had not
+seen before, though my reading had told me of its existence, a long line
+of trees marking a ridge on the horizon, which line was the border of
+that ancient road the Roman soldiers built leading from the west into
+Amiens. "Along that road," thought I, "St. Martin rode before he became
+a monk, and while he was yet a soldier and was serving under Julian the
+Apostate. Along that road he came to the west gate of Amiens and there
+cut his cloak in two and gave the half of it to a beggar."
+
+The memory of St. Martin's deed entertained me for some miles of my way,
+and I remembered how, when I was a child, it had seemed to me ridiculous
+to cut your coat in two whether for a beggar or for anybody else. Not
+that I thought charity ridiculous--God forbid!--but that a coat seemed
+to me a thing you could not cut in two with any profit to the user of
+either half. You might cut it in latitude and turn it into an Eton
+jacket and a kilt, neither of much use to a Gallo-Roman beggar. Or you
+might cut it in meridian and leave but one sleeve: mere folly.
+
+Considering these things, I went on over the rolling plateau. I saw a
+great owl flying before me against the sky, different from the owls of
+home. I saw Jupiter shining above a cloud and Venus shining below one.
+The long light lingered in the north above the English sea. At last I
+came quite unexpectedly upon that delight and plaything of the French: a
+light railway, or steam tram such as that people build in great
+profusion to link up their villages and their streams. The road where I
+came upon it made a level crossing, and there was a hut there, and a
+woman living in it who kept the level crossing and warned the
+passers-by. She told me no more trains, or rather little trams, would
+pass that night, but that three miles further on I should come to a
+place called "The Mills of the Vidame."
+
+Now the name "Vidame" reminded me that a "Vidame" was the lay protector
+of a Cathedral Chapter in feudal times, so the name gave me a renewed
+pleasure.
+
+But it was now near midnight, and when I came to this village I
+remembered how in similar night walks I had sometimes been refused
+lodging. When I got among the few houses all was dark. I found, however,
+in the darkness two young men, each bearing an enormous curled trumpet
+of the kind which the French call _cors de chasse_, that is,
+hunting horns, so I asked them where the inn was. They took me to it and
+woke up the hostess, who received us with oaths. This she did lest the
+young men with hunting horns should demand a commission. Her heart,
+however, was better than her mouth, and she put me up, but she charged
+me tenpence for my room, counting coffee in the morning, which was, I am
+sure, more than her usual rate.
+
+Next day I took the little steam tram away from the place and went on
+vaguely whither it should please God to take me, until the plateau
+changed and the light railway fell into a charming valley, and, seeing a
+town rooted therein, I got out and paid my fare and visited the town. In
+this town I went to church, as it was early morning (you must excuse the
+foible), and, coming out of church, I had an argument with a working man
+upon the matter of religion, in which argument, as I believe, I was the
+victor. I then went on north out of this town and came into a wood of
+enormous size. It was miles and miles across, and the trees were higher
+than anything I have seen outside of California. It was an enchanted
+wood. The sun shone down through a hundred feet of silence by little
+rounds between the leaves, and there was silence everywhere. In this
+wood I sojourned all day long, making slowly westward, till, in the very
+midst of it, I found a troubled man. He was a man of middle age, short,
+intelligent, fat, and weary. He said to me:
+
+"Have you noticed any special mark upon the trees? A white mark of the
+number 90?"
+
+"No," said I. "Are there any wild boars in this forest?"
+
+"Yes," he answered, "a few, but not of use. I am looking for trees
+marked in white with the number 90. I have paid a price for them, and I
+cannot find them."
+
+I saluted him and went on my way. At last I came to an open clearing,
+where there was a town, and in the town I found a very delightful inn,
+where they would cook anything one felt inclined for, within reason, and
+charged one very moderately indeed. I have retained its name.
+
+By this time I was completely lost, and in the heart of Fairyland, when
+suddenly I remembered that everyone that strikes root in Fairyland loses
+something, at the least his love and at the worst his soul, and that it
+is a perilous business to linger there, so I asked them in that hotel
+how they worked it when they wanted to go west into the great towns.
+They put me into an omnibus, which charged me fourpence for a journey of
+some two miles. It took me, as Heaven ordained, to a common great
+railway, and that common great railway took me through the night to the
+town of Dieppe, which I have known since I could speak and before, and
+which was about as much of Fairyland to me as Piccadilly or Monday
+morning.
+
+Thus ended those two days, in which I had touched again the unknown
+places--and all that heaven was but two days, and cost me not fifty
+shillings.
+
+Excuse the folly of this.
+
+
+
+
+The Tide
+
+
+I wish I had been one of those men who first sailed beyond the Pillars
+of Hercules and first saw, as they edged northward along a barbarian
+shore, the slow swinging of the sea. How much, I wonder, did they think
+themselves enlarged? How much did they know that all the civilization
+behind them, the very ancient world of the Mediterranean, was something
+protected and enclosed from which they had escaped into an outer world?
+And how much did they feel that here they were now physically caught by
+the moving tides that bore them in the whole movement of things?
+
+For the tide is of that kind; and the movement of the sea four times
+daily back and forth is a consequence, a reflection, and a part of the
+ceaseless pulse and rhythm which animates all things made and which
+links what seems not living to what certainly lives and feels and has
+power over all movement of its own. The circuits of the planets stretch
+and then recede. Their ellipses elongate and flatten again to the
+semblance of circles. The Poles slowly nod once every many thousand
+years, there is a libration to the moon; and in all this vast harmonious
+process of come and go the units of it twirl and spin, and, as they
+spin, run more gravely in ordered procession round their central star:
+that star moves also to a beat, and all the stars of heaven move each in
+times of its own as well, and their movement is one thing altogether.
+Whoever should receive the mighty business moving in one ear would get
+the music of it in a perfect series of chords, superimposed the one upon
+the other, but not a tremble of them out of tune.
+
+The great scheme is not infinite, for were it infinite such rhythms
+could not be. It was made, and it moves in order to the scheme of its
+making without caprice, not wayward anywhere, but in and out and back
+and forth as to a figure set for it. It must be so, or these exact
+arrangements could not be.
+
+Now with this regulated breathing and expiration, playing itself out in
+a million ways and co-extensive with the universe of things, the tides
+keep time, and they alone of earthly things bring its actual force to
+our physical perception, to our daily life. We see the sea in movement
+and power before us heaving up whatever it may bear, and we feel in an
+immediate way its strong backward sagging when the rocks appear above it
+as it falls. We have our hand on the throb of the current turning in a
+salting river inland between green hills; we are borne upon it bodily as
+we sail, its movement kicks the tiller in our grasp, and the strength
+beneath us and around us, the rush and the compulsion of the stream, its
+silence and as it were its purpose, all represent to us, immediately and
+here, that immeasurable to and fro which rules the skies.
+
+When the Roman soldiers came marching northward with Caesar and first
+saw the shores of ocean: when, after that occupation of Gaul which has
+changed the world, they first mounted guard upon the quays of the Itian
+port under Gris-Nez, or the rocky inlets of the Veneti by St. Malo and
+the Breton reefs, they were appalled to see what for centuries chance
+traders and the few curious travellers, the men of Marseilles and of the
+islands, had seen before them. They saw in numbers and in a corporate
+way what hitherto individuals alone had seen; they saw the sea like a
+living thing, advancing and retreating in an ordered dance, alive with
+deep sighs and intakes, and ceaselessly proceeding about a work and a
+doing which seemed to be the very visible action of an unchanging will
+still pleased with calculated change. It was the presence of the Roman
+army upon the shores of the Channel which brought the Tide into the
+general conscience of Europe, and that experience, I think, was among
+the greatest, perhaps the greatest, of those new things which rushed
+upon the mind of the Empire when it launched itself by the occupation of
+Gaul.
+
+The tide, when it is mentioned in brief historical records of times long
+since, suddenly strikes one with vividness and with familiarity, so that
+the past is introduced at once, presented to us physically, and obtruded
+against our modern senses alive. I know of no other physical thing
+mentioned in this fashion, in chronicle or biography, which has so
+powerful an effect to restore the reality of a dead century.
+
+The Venerable Bede is speaking in one place of Southampton Water, in his
+ecclesiastical history, or, rather, of the Isle of Wight, whence those
+two Princes were baptized and died under Cadwalla. As the historian
+speaks of the place he says:
+
+"In this sea" (which is the Solent) "comes a double tide out of the seas
+which spring from the infinite ocean of the Arctic surrounding all
+Britain."
+
+And he tells us how these double tides rush together and fight together,
+sweeping as they do round either side of the island by the Needles and
+by Spithead into the land-locked sheet within.
+
+Now that passage in Bede's fourth book is more real to me than anything
+in all his chronicle, for in Southampton Water to-day the living thing
+which we still note as we sail is the double tide. You take a falling
+tide at the head of the water, near Southampton Town, and if you are not
+quick with your business it is checked in two hours and you meet a
+strange flood, the second flood, before you have rounded Calshott
+Castle.
+
+Then there is a Charter of Newcastle. Or, rather, the inviolable Customs
+of that town, very old, drawn up nearly eight hundred years ago, but
+beginning from far earlier; and in these customs you find written:
+
+"If a plea shall arise between a burgess and a merchant it must be
+determined before the third flowing of the sea"--that is, within three
+tides; a wise provision! For thus the merchant would not miss the last
+tide of the day after the quarrel. How living it is, a phrase of that
+sort coming in the midst of those other phrases!
+
+All the rest, worse luck, has gone. Burgage-tenure, and the economic
+independence of the humble, and the busy, healthy life of men working to
+enrich themselves, not others, and that corporate association which was
+the blood of the Middle Ages, and the power of popular opinion, and, in
+general, freedom. But out of all these things that have perished, the
+tide remains, and in the eighteen clauses of the Customs, the tidal
+clause alone stands fresh and still has meaning. The capital, great
+clinching clause by which men owned their own land within the town has
+gone utterly and altogether. The modern workman on the Tyne would not
+understand you perhaps, to whom in that very place you should say, "Many
+centuries ago the men that came before you here, your fathers, were not
+working precariously at a wage, or paying rent to others, but living
+under their own roofs and working for themselves." There is only one
+passage in the document that all could understand in Newcastle
+to-day--the very few rich who are hardly secure, the myriads of poor who
+are not secure at all--and that passage is the passage which talks of
+the third tide; for even to-day there is some good we have left
+undestroyed and the sea still ebbs and flows.
+
+This little note of the Newcastle men, and of the flowing and the ebbing
+of their sea, is to be found, you say, in the archives of England? Not
+at all! It is to be found in the Acts of the Parliament of Scotland--at
+least, so my book assures me, but why I do not know. Perhaps of the
+times when between Tyne and Tees, men looked northward and of the times
+when they looked southward (for they alternately did one and the other
+during many hundreds of years) those times when they looked northward
+seemed the more natural to them. Anyhow, the reference is to the Acts of
+the Parliament of Scotland, and that is the end of it.
+
+
+
+
+On a Great Wind
+
+
+It is an old dispute among men, or rather a dispute as old as mankind,
+whether Will be a cause of things or no; nor is there anything novel in
+those moderns who affirm that Will is nothing to the matter, save their
+ignorant belief that their affirmation is new.
+
+The intelligent process whereby I know that Will not seems but is, and
+can alone be truly and ultimately a cause, is fed with stuff and
+strengthens sacramentally as it were, whenever I meet, and am made the
+companion of, a great wind.
+
+It is not that this lively creature of God is indeed perfected with a
+soul; this it would be superstition to believe. It has no more a person
+than any other of its material fellows, but in its vagary of way, in the
+largeness of its apparent freedom, in its rush of purpose, it seems to
+mirror the action of mighty spirit. When a great wind comes roaring over
+the eastern flats towards the North Sea, driving over the Fens and the
+Wringland, it is like something of this island that must go out and
+wrestle with the water, or play with it in a game or a battle; and when,
+upon the western shores, the clouds come bowling up from the horizon,
+messengers, outriders, or comrades of a gale, it is something of the sea
+determined to possess the land. The rising and falling of such power,
+its hesitations, its renewed violence, its fatigue and final repose--all
+these are symbols of a mind; but more than all the rest, its exultation!
+It is the shouting and the hurrahing of the wind that suits a man.
+
+Note you, we have not many friends. The older we grow and the better we
+can sift mankind, the fewer friends we count, although man lives by
+friendship. But a great wind is every man's friend, and its strength is
+the strength of good-fellowship; and even doing battle with it is
+something worthy and well chosen. If there is cruelty in the sea, and
+terror in high places, and malice lurking in profound darkness, there is
+no one of these qualities in the wind, but only power. Here is strength
+too full for such negations as cruelty, as malice, or as fear; and that
+strength in a solemn manner proves and tests health in our own souls.
+For with terror (of the sort I mean--terror of the abyss or panic at
+remembered pain, and in general, a losing grip of the succours of the
+mind), and with malice, and with cruelty, and with all the forms of that
+Evil which lies in wait for men, there is the savour of disease. It is
+an error to think of such things as power set up in equality against
+justice and right living. We were not made for them, but rather for
+influences large and soundly poised; we are not subject to them but to
+other powers that can always enliven and relieve. It is health in us, I
+say, to be full of heartiness and of the joy of the world, and of
+whether we have such health our comfort in a great wind is a good test
+indeed. No man spends his day upon the mountains when the wind is out,
+riding against it or pushing forward on foot through the gale, but at
+the end of his day feels that he has had a great host about him. It is
+as though he had experienced armies. The days of high winds are days of
+innumerable sounds, innumerable in variation of tone and of intensity,
+playing upon and awakening innumerable powers in man. And the days of
+high wind are days in which a physical compulsion has been about us and
+we have met pressure and blows, resisted and turned them; it enlivens us
+with the simulacrum of war by which nations live, and in the just
+pursuit of which men in companionship are at their noblest.
+
+It is pretended sometimes (less often perhaps now than a dozen years
+ago) that certain ancient pursuits congenial to man will be lost to him
+under his new necessities; thus men sometimes talk foolishly of horses
+being no longer ridden, houses no longer built of wholesome wood and
+stone, but of metal; meat no more roasted, but only baked; and even of
+stomachs grown too weak for wine. There is a fashion of saying these
+things, and much other nastiness. Such talk is (thank God!) mere folly;
+for man will always at last tend to his end, which is happiness, and he
+will remember again to do all those things which serve that end. So it
+is with the uses of the wind, and especially the, using of the wind with
+sails.
+
+No man has known the wind by any of its names who has not sailed his own
+boat and felt life in the tiller. Then it is that a man has most to do
+with the wind, plays with it, coaxes or refuses it, is wary of it all
+along; yields when he must yield, but comes up and pits himself again
+against its violence; trains it, harnesses it, calls it if it fails him,
+denounces it if it will try to be too strong, and in every manner
+conceivable handles this glorious playmate.
+
+As for those who say that men did but use the wind as an instrument for
+crossing the sea, and that sails were mere machines to them, either they
+have never sailed or they were quite unworthy of sailing. It is not an
+accident that the tall ships of every age of varying fashions so
+arrested human sight and seemed so splendid. The whole of man went into
+their creation, and they expressed him very well; his cunning, and his
+mastery, and his adventurous heart. For the wind is in nothing more
+capitally our friend than in this, that it has been, since men were men,
+their ally in the seeking of the unknown and in their divine thirst for
+travel which, in its several aspects--pilgrimage, conquest, discovery,
+and, in general, enlargement--is one prime way whereby man fills himself
+with being.
+
+I love to think of those Norwegian men who set out eagerly before the
+north-east wind when it came down from their mountains in the month of
+March like a god of great stature to impel them to the West. They pushed
+their Long Keels out upon the rollers, grinding the shingle of the beach
+at the fjord-head. They ran down the calm narrows, they breasted and
+they met the open sea. Then for days and days they drove under this
+master of theirs and high friend, having the wind for a sort of captain,
+and looking always out to the sea line to find what they could find. It
+was the springtime; and men feel the spring upon the sea even more
+surely than they feel it upon the land. They were men whose eyes, pale
+with the foam, watched for a landfall, that unmistakable good sight
+which the wind brings us to, the cloud that does not change and that
+comes after the long emptiness of sea days like a vision after the
+sameness of our common lives. To them the land they so discovered was
+wholly new.
+
+We have no cause to regret the youth of the world, if indeed the world
+were ever young. When we imagine in our cities that the wind no longer
+calls us to such things, it is only our reading that blinds us, and the
+picture of satiety which our reading breeds is wholly false. Any man
+to-day may go out and take his pleasure with the wind upon the high
+seas. He also will make his landfalls to-day, or in a thousand years;
+and the sight is always the same, and the appetite for such discoveries
+is wholly satisfied even though he be only sailing, as I have sailed,
+over seas that he has known from childhood, and come upon an island far
+away, mapped and well known, and visited for the hundredth time.
+
+
+
+
+The Letter
+
+
+If you ask me why it is now three weeks since I received your letter
+and why it is only today that I answer it, I must tell you the truth
+lest further things I may have to tell you should not be worthy of your
+dignity or of mine. It was because at first I dared not, then later I
+reasoned with myself, and so bred delay, and at last took refuge in more
+delay. I will offer no excuse: I will not tell you that I suffered
+illness, or that some accident of war had taken me away from this old
+house, or that I have but just returned from a journey to my hill and my
+view over the Plain and the great River.
+
+Your messenger I have kept, and I have entertained him well. I looked at
+him a little narrowly at his first coming, thinking perhaps he might be
+a gentleman of yours, but I soon found that he was not such, and that he
+bore no disguise, but was a plain rider of your household. I put him in
+good quarters by the Hunting Stables. He has had nothing to do but to
+await my resolution, which is now at last taken, and which you receive
+in this.
+
+But how shall I begin, or how express to you what not distance but a
+slow and bitter conclusion of the mind has done?
+
+I shall not return to Meudon. I shall not see the woods, the summer
+woods turning to autumn, nor follow the hunt, nor take pleasure again in
+what is still the best of Europe at Versailles. And now that I have said
+it, you must read it so; for I am unalterably determined. Believe me, it
+is something much more deep than courtesy which compels me to give you
+my reasons for this final and irrevocable doom.
+
+We were children together. Though we leant so lightly in our
+conversations of this spring upon all we knew in common, I know your age
+and all your strong early experience--and you know mine. Your mother
+will recall that day's riding when I came back from my first leave and
+you were home, not, I think, for good, from the convent. A fixed
+domestic habit blinded her, so that she could then still see in us no
+more than two children; yet I was proud of my sword, and had it on, and
+you that day were proud of a beauty which could no longer be hidden even
+from yourself; I would then have sacrificed, and would now, all I had or
+was or had or am to have made that beauty immortal.
+
+I say, you remember that day's riding, and how after it the world was
+changed for you and me, and how that same evening the elders saw that it
+was changed.
+
+You will remember that for two years we were not allowed to meet again.
+When the two years were passed we met indeed by a mere accident of that
+rich and tedious life wherein we were both now engaged. I was returned
+from leave before Tournay; you had heard, I think, a false report that I
+had been wounded in the dreadful business at Fontenoy (which to remember
+even now horrifies me a little). I had heard and knew which of the great
+names you now bore by marriage. The next day it was your husband who
+rode with me to Marly. I liked him well enough. I have grown to like him
+better. He is an honest man, though I confess his philosophers weary me.
+When I say "an honest man" I am giving the highest praise I know.
+
+My dear, that was sixteen years ago.
+
+You may not even now understand, so engrossing is the toilsome and
+excited ritual of that rich world at Versailles, how blest you are: your
+children are growing round you: your daughters are beginning to reveal
+your own beauty, and your sons will show in these next years immediately
+before us that temper which in you was a spirit and a height of being,
+and in them, men, will show as plain courage. During that long space of
+years your house has remained well ordered (it was your husband's
+doing). His great fortune and yours have jointly increased: if I may
+tell you so, it is a pleasure to all who understand fitness to know that
+this is so, and that your lineage and his will hold so great a place in
+the State.
+
+As you review those sixteen years you may, if you will--I trust you will
+not--recall those occasions when I saw the woods of Meudon and mixed by
+chance with your world, and when we renewed the rides which had ended
+our childhood. As for me I have not to recall those things. They are,
+alas, myself, and beyond them there is nothing that I can call a memory
+or a being at all. Nevertheless, as I have told you, I shall not come to
+Meudon: I shall not hear again the delightful voices of those many
+friends (now in mid-life as am I) who are my equals at Versailles. I
+shall not see your face.
+
+I did not take service with the Empire from any pique or folly, but from
+a necessity for adventure and for the refounding of my house. It might
+have chanced that I should marry: the land demanded an heir. My
+impoverishment weighed upon me like an ill deed, for all this belt of
+land is dependent upon the old house, which I can with such difficulty
+retain and from which I write to-day. I spent all those years in the
+service of the Empire (and even of Russia) from no uncertain temper and
+from no imaginary quarrel. It is so common or so necessary for men and
+women to misjudge each other that I believe you thought me wayward, or
+at least unstable. If you did so you did me a wrong. Those two good
+seasons when we met again, and this last of but a month ago, were not
+accidents or fitful recoveries. They were all I possessed in my life and
+all that will perish with me when I die.
+
+But now, to tell you the very core of my decision, it is this: The years
+that pass carry with them an increasing weight at once sombre and
+majestic. There are things belonging to youth which habit continues
+strangely longer than the season to which they properly belong: if, when
+we discover them to be too prolonged as cling to their survival, why,
+then, we eat dust. So long as we possess the illusion and so long as the
+dearest things of youth maintain unchanged, in one chamber of our life
+at least, our twentieth year, so long all is well. But there is a cold
+river which we must pass in our advance towards nothingness and age. In
+the passage of that stream we change: and you and I have passed it.
+There is no more endurance in that young mood of ours than in any other
+human thing. One always wakes from it at last. One sees what it is. The
+soul sees and counts with hard eyes the price at which a continuance of
+such high dreams must be purchased, and the heart has a prevision of the
+evil that the happy cheat will work as maturity is reached by each of
+us, and as each of us fully takes on the burden of the world.
+
+Therefore I must not return.
+
+Foolishly and without thinking of real things, acting as though indeed
+that life of dream and of illusion were still possible to me, I
+yesterday cut with great care a rose, one from the many that have now
+grown almost wild upon the great wall overlooking the Danube. Then ... I
+could not but smile to myself when I remembered how by the time that
+rose should have reached you every petal would be wasted and fallen in
+the long week's ride. There is a fixed term of life for roses also as
+for men. I do not cite this to you by way of parable. I have no heart
+for tricks of the pen to-night; but the two images came together, and
+you will understand. If I do not return, it is for the same reason that
+I could not send the rose.
+
+
+
+
+The Regret
+
+
+Everybody knows, I suppose, that kind of landscape in which hills seem
+to lie in a regular manner, fold on fold, one range behind the other,
+until, at last, behind them all some higher and grander range dominates
+and frames the whole.
+
+The infinite variety of light and air and accident of soil provide all
+men save those who live in the great plains with examples of this sort.
+The traveller in the dry air of California or of Spain, watching great
+distances from the heights, will recollect such landscapes all his life.
+They were the reward of his long ascents and the visions which attended
+his effort as he climbed up to the ridge of his horizon. Such a
+landscape does a man see from the Western edges of the Guadarrama,
+looking eastward and south toward the very distant hills that guard
+Toledo and the Gulf of the Tagus. Such a landscape does a man see at
+sunrise from the highest of the Cevennes looking right eastward to the
+dawn as it comes up in the pure and cold air beyond the Alps, and shows
+you the falling of the foothills to the Rhone. And by such a landscape
+is a man gladdened when upon the escarpments of the Tuolumne he turns
+back and looks westward over the plain towards the vast range.
+
+The experience of such a sight is one peculiar in travel, or, for that
+matter, if a man is lucky enough to enjoy it at home, insistent and
+reiterated upon the mind of the home-dwelling man. Such a landscape, for
+instance, makes a man praise God if his house is upon the height of
+Mendip, and he can look over falling hills right over the Vale of Severn
+toward the ridge above ridge of the Welsh solemnities beyond, until the
+straight line and high of the Black Mountains ends his view.
+
+It is the character of these landscapes to suggest at once a vastness,
+diversity, and seclusion. When a man comes upon them unexpectedly he can
+forget the perpetual toil of men and imagine that those who dwell below
+in the near side before him are exempt from the necessities of this
+world. When such a landscape is part of a man's dwelling-place, though
+he well knows that the painful life of men within those hills is the
+same hard business that it is throughout the world, yet his knowledge is
+modified and comforted by the permanent glory of the thing he sees.
+
+The distant and high range that bounds his view makes a sort of veiling,
+cutting it off and guarding it from whatever may be beyond. The
+succession of lower ranges suggests secluded valleys, and the reiterated
+woods, distant and more distant, convey an impression of fertility more
+powerful than that of corn in harvest upon the lowlands.
+
+Sometimes it is a whole province that is thus grasped by the eye,
+sometimes in the summer haze but a few miles; always this scenery
+inspires the onlooker with a sense of completion and of repose, and at
+the same time, I think, with worship and with awe.
+
+Now one such group of valleys there was, hill above hill, forest above
+forest, and beyond it a great noble range, unwooded and high against
+heaven, guarding it, which I for my part knew when first I knew anything
+of this world. There is a high place under fir trees, a place of sand
+and bracken, in South England whence such a view was always present to
+eye in childhood and "There," said I to myself (even in childhood) "a
+man should make his habitation." In those valleys is the proper off-set
+for man.
+
+And so there was.
+
+It was a little place which had grown up as my county grows. The house
+throwing out arms and layers. One room was panelled in the oak of the
+seventeenth century--but that had been a novelty in its time, for the
+walls upon which the panels stood were of the late fifteenth, oak and
+brick intermingled. Another room was large and light built in the manner
+of one hundred and fifty years ago, which people call Georgian. It had
+been thrown out south (which is quite against our older custom, for our
+older houses looked east and west to take all the sun and to present a
+corner to the south-west and the storms. So they stand still). It had
+round it a solid cornice which the modern men of the towns would have
+called ugly, but there was ancestry in it. Then, further on this house
+had modern roominess stretching in one new wing after another; and it
+had a great steading and there was a copse and some six acres of land.
+Over a deep ravine looked the little town that was the mother of the
+place, and altogether it was enclosed, silent, and secure.
+
+"The fish that misses the hook regrets the worm." If this is not a
+Chinese proverb it ought to be. That little farm and steading and those
+six acres, that ravine, those trees, that aspect of the little mothering
+town; the wooded hills fold above fold, the noble range beyond, will not
+be mine.
+
+For all I know, some man quite unacquainted with that land took them
+grumbling for a debt; or again, for all I know, they may have been
+bought by a blind man who could not see the hills, or by some man who,
+seeing them, perpetually regretted the flat marshes of the fens. One
+day, up high on Egdean Side, not thinking of such things, through a gap
+in the trees I saw again after so many years, set one behind the other,
+the forests wave upon wave, the summer heat, the high, bare range
+guarding all, and in the midst of that landscape, set like a toy, the
+little Sabine Farm.
+
+Then I said to it, "Continue. Go and serve whom you will, my little
+Sabine Farm. You were not mine because you would not be, and you are not
+mine at all to-day. You will regret it perhaps, and perhaps you will
+not. There was verse in you, perhaps, or prose, or--infinitely
+more!--contentment for a man (for all I know). But you refused. You lost
+your chance. Goodbye." And with that I went on into the wood and beyond
+the gap, and saw the sight no more.
+
+It was ten years since I had seen it last. It may be ten years before I
+see it again, or it may be for ever. But as I went through the woods
+saying to myself:
+
+"You lost your chance, my little Sabine Farm, you lost your chance!"
+another part of me at once replied:
+
+"Ah! And so did _you_!"
+
+Then, by way of riposte, I answered in my mind:
+
+"Not at all, for the chance I never had, but what I lost was my desire."
+
+"No, not your desire," said the voice to me within, "but the fulfilment
+of it, in which you would have lost your desire." And when that reply
+came I naturally turned as all men do on hearing such interior replies,
+to a general consideration of regret, and was prepared, if any honest
+publisher should have come whistling through that wood, with an offer
+proper to the occasion, namely, to produce no less than five volumes on
+the Nature of Regret, its mortal sting, its bitter-sweetness, its power
+to keep alive in man the pure passions of the soul, its hints at
+immortality, its memory of Heaven. But the wood was empty of publishers.
+The offer did not come. The moment was lost. The five volumes will
+hardly now be written. In place of them I offer poor this, which you may
+take or leave. But I beg leave before I end to cite certain words very
+nobly attached to that great inn "The Griffin," which has its foundation
+set far off in another place, in the town of March, in the Fen Land:
+
+"England my desire, what have you not refused?"
+
+
+
+
+The End Of The World
+
+
+One day I met a man who was sitting quite silent near Whitney, in the
+Thames Valley, in a very large, long, low inn that stands in those
+parts, or at least stood then, for whether it stands now or not depends
+upon the Fussyites, whose business it is to Fuss, and in their Fussing
+to disturb mankind.
+
+He had nothing to say for himself at all, and he looked not gloomy but
+sad. He was tall and thin, with high cheekbones. His face was the colour
+of leather that has been some time in the weather, and he despised us
+altogether: he would not say a word to us, until one of the company
+said, rising from his meat and drink: "Very well, there's a thing we
+shall never know till the end of the world" (he was talking about some
+discussion or other which the young men had been holding together).
+"There's a thing we shall never know till the end of the world--and
+about that nobody knows!"
+
+"You will pardon me," said the tall, thin, and elderly man with a face
+like leather that has been exposed to the weather, "I know about the End
+of the World, for I have been there."
+
+This was so interesting that we all sat down again to listen.
+
+"I wasn't talking of place, but of time," murmured the young man whom
+the stranger had answered.
+
+"I cannot help that," said the stranger decisively; "the End of the
+World is the End of the World, and whether you are talking of space or
+of time it does not matter, for when you have got to the end you have
+got to the end, as may be proved in several ways."
+
+"How did you get to it?" said one of our companions.
+
+"That is very simply answered," said the elder man; "you get to it by
+walking straight in front of you."
+
+"Anyone could do that," said the other.
+
+"Anyone could," said the elder man, "but nobody does. I did.... When I
+was quite a boy in my father's parsonage (for my father was a parson),
+having heard so much about the End of the World and seeing that people's
+descriptions of it differed so much and that everybody was quite sure of
+his own, I used to take my father's friends and guests aside privately,
+for I was afraid to take my father himself, and I used to ask them how
+they knew what the End of the World was really like, and whether they
+had seen it. Some laughed, others were silent, and others were angry;
+but no one gave me any information. At last I decided (and it was very
+wise of me) that the only way to find out a thing of that sort was to
+find it out for one's self, and not to go by hearsay, so I determined to
+go straight on without stopping until I got to the End of the World."
+
+"Which way did you walk?" said yet another of my companions.
+
+"Young man," said the stranger, with solemnity, "I walked westward
+toward the setting sun ... I walked and I walked and I walked, day after
+day and year after year. Whenever I came to the seacoast I would take
+work on board a ship--and remember it is always easy to get work if you
+will take the wages that are offered, and always difficult to get it if
+you will not. Well, then, I went in this way through all known lands and
+over all known seas, until at last I came to the shore of a sea beyond
+which (so the people told me who lived there) there was no further
+shore. 'I cannot help that,' said I; 'I have not yet come to the End of
+the World, and it is common sense that such a lot of water must have
+something at the back of it to hold it up; besides which there is a
+strong wind blowing out of the gates of the west and from the sunset.
+Now that wind must rise somewhere, and I am going on to see where it
+rises.' One of them was kind enough to lend me a boat with oars; I
+thanked him prettily, and then I set out to row toward the End of the
+World, taking with me two or three days' provisions.
+
+"When I had rowed a long time I went asleep, and when I woke up next
+morning I rowed again all day until the second night I went to sleep. On
+the third day I rowed again: a little before sunset on the third day I
+saw before me high hills, all in peaks like a great saw. On the very
+highest of the peaks there were streaks of snow, and at about six
+o'clock in the afternoon I grounded my boat upon that gravelly shore and
+pulled it up upon the shingle, though it was evident either that the
+tide was high or that there was no tide in these silent places.
+
+"I offered up a prayer to the genius of the land, and tied the painter
+of the boat to two great stones, so that no wave reaching it might move
+it, and then I went on inland. When I had gone a little way I saw a
+signpost on which was written, 'To the End of the World One Mile' and
+there was a rough track along which it pointed. I went along this track.
+Everything was completely silent. There were no birds, there was no wind,
+there was nothing in the sky. But one thing I did notice, which was that
+the sun was much larger than it used to be, and that as I went along this
+last mile or so it seemed to get larger still--but that may have been my
+imagination, for I must tell you my imagination is pretty strong.
+
+"Well then, gentlemen, when I had gone a mile or so I saw another
+signpost, on which there was a large board marked 'Danger,' and a
+hundred yards beyond the track went between two great dark rocks--and
+there I was! The road had stopped short; it was broken off, jagged, just
+like a torn bit of paper ... and there was the End of the World."
+
+"How do you mean?" said one of the younger men in an awed tone.
+
+"What I say," said the stranger decidedly. "I had come to the end; there
+was nothing beyond. You looked down over a precipice where there was
+moss and steep grass, and on the ledges trees far below, and then more
+precipice, and then--oh, miles below--a few more trees or so clinging to
+the steep, then more precipice, and then darkness; and far away before
+me was the whole expanse of sky; and in the midst of it I saw the broad
+red sun setting into the brume; it was not yet dark enough to see the
+stars, and there was no moon in the sky.
+
+"I assure you it was a very wonderful sight, and I was awed though I was
+not afraid. And how glad I was to find that the world had an edge to it,
+and that all that talk about its being round was nonsense!
+
+"When the sun was set it grew dark, and I returned to find my boat; but
+I must have missed my way, for the track became broader and better, and
+at last I came to a gate of a human sort, with an initial on it, which
+showed that it had been put up by some landlord. It was an open gate,
+and after I had entered it I came upon a broad highway, beautifully
+metalled, and when I had gone along this for less than half a mile I
+came to this inn where I am now sitting. That was a week ago, and I have
+been here ever since. They took me in kindly enough, but they would not
+believe what I had to tell them about the End of the World. It is a
+great pity, gentlemen, for that wonderful sight is to be discovered
+somewhere hereabouts, and a mere accident of my losing my way in the
+darkness makes it difficult for me to find it by daylight."
+
+Having said all this, the stranger was silent.
+
+One of my companions whispered to me that the old man must be mad. The
+stranger overheard him, and said with a thin smile:
+
+"Oh, I know all about that; several have suggested it already; but it is
+no answer, for if I did not come from the End of the World, where did I
+come from? No one has seen me hereabouts during the last few days until
+I came to this inn. And all the first part of my journey I can very
+easily explain, for I have notes of it, and it lasted for years. It is
+only this last part which seems to me so difficult.... I tell you I lost
+my way, and when a man has lost his way at night he can never find it
+again in the daytime."
+
+As he spoke he took a little piece of folded paper, rather dirty, out of
+his inner pocket, on which a rough sketch-map was drawn, and he began
+touching it with a stump of pencil that he held in his hand. His eyes
+seemed to grow dimmer as he did so, and he leaned his head upon his
+hand. "I think I have got hold of it, gentlemen," he said.
+
+We did not get up or go too near him, for we thought he might be
+dangerous.
+
+"I think, gentlemen," he repeated in a more mumbling and lower and less
+certain voice, "I think I have got hold of it. I go backwards again
+through the gate to the right, just as then I went to the left, and
+after that it cannot be very far, for I see those two rocks in front of
+me. Besides which," he muttered less and less coherently, "I ought to
+have remembered of course those very high and silent hills with nothing
+living upon them...." And he added, half asleep, as his head dropped
+upon his hand, "It was westward.... I had forgotten that."
+
+Having so spoken, he seemed to fall asleep altogether, and his head fell
+back upon the corner of the wainscoting behind the bench where he sat.
+He made no noise in breathing as he slept.
+
+It was the first time that any of us young men had come across this
+fairly common sight of a man who took things within for things without;
+some of us were frightened, and all of us wished to be rid of the place
+and to get away. As we went out we told the landlord nothing either of
+the old fellow's vagaries or of his sleep, but we went out and reached
+the town of Whitney, and when we had stayed there a couple of hours or
+so we went out southward to the station and waited there for the train
+which should take us back to Oxford.
+
+While we were waiting there in the station two farmers were talking
+together. One said to the other:
+
+"Ar, if he'd paid them they wouldn't have minded so much."
+
+To which the other answered:
+
+"Ar, 'tisn't only the paying: it's always an awkward thing when a man
+dies in your house, specially if it's licensed. My wife's brother was
+caught that way."
+
+Then as they went on talking we found that they were talking of the man
+in the inn, who it seems had not slept very long, but was dead, and had
+died in that same room. It was a shocking thing to hear. The first
+farmer said to the second in the railway carriage when we had all got
+in:
+
+"Where'd he come from?"
+
+The other, who was an old man, grinned and said:
+
+"Where we all come from, I suppose, and where we all go to." He touched
+his forehead with his hand. "He said he'd come from the End of the
+World."
+
+"Ar," said the other gloomily in answer, "like enough!" And after that
+they talked no more about the matter.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of First and Last, by H. Belloc
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of First and Last, by H. Belloc
+
+Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the
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+*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!*****
+
+
+Title: First and Last
+
+Author: H. Belloc
+
+Release Date: January, 2005 [EBook #7352]
+[This file was first posted on April 19, 2003]
+
+Edition: 10
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: US-ASCII
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, FIRST AND LAST ***
+
+
+
+
+Tonya Allen, Eric Eldred, Charles Franks, and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+FIRST AND LAST
+
+BY
+
+H. BELLOC
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+ON WEIGHING ANCHOR
+
+THE REVEILLON
+
+ON CHEESES
+
+THE CAPTAIN OF INDUSTRY
+
+THE INVENTOR
+
+THE VIEWS OF ENGLAND
+
+THE LUNATIC
+
+THE INHERITANCE OF HUMOUR
+
+THE OLD GENTLEMAN'S OPINIONS
+
+ON HISTORICAL EVIDENCE
+
+THE ABSENCE OF THE PAST
+
+ST. PATRICK
+
+THE LOST THINGS
+
+ON THE READING OF HISTORY
+
+THE VICTORY
+
+REALITY
+
+ON THE DECLINE OF THE BOOK
+
+JOSE MARIA DE HEREDIA
+
+NORMANDY AND THE NORMANS
+
+THE OLD THINGS
+
+THE BATTLE OF HASTINGS
+
+THE ROMAN ROADS IN PICARDY
+
+THE REWARD OF LETTERS
+
+THE EYE-OPENERS
+
+THE PUBLIC
+
+ON ENTRIES
+
+COMPANIONS OF TRAVEL
+
+ON THE SOURCES OF RIVERS
+
+ON ERROR
+
+THE GREAT SIGHT
+
+THE DECLINE OF A STATE
+
+ON PAST GREATNESS
+
+MR. THE DUKE: THE MAN OF MALPLAQUET
+
+THE GAME OF CARDS
+
+"KING LEAR"
+
+THE EXCURSION
+
+THE TIDE
+
+ON A GREAT WIND
+
+THE LETTER
+
+THE REGRET
+
+THE END OF THE WORLD
+
+
+
+
+FIRST AND LAST
+
+
+
+
+On Weighing Anchor
+
+
+Personally I should call it "Getting It up," but I have always seen it
+in print called "weighing anchor"--and if it is in print one must bow to
+it. It does weigh.
+
+There are many ways of doing it. The best, like all good things, has
+gone for ever, and this best way was for a thing called a capstan to
+have sticking out from it, movable, and fitted into its upper rim, other
+things called capstan--bars. These, men would push singing a song, while
+on the top of the capstan sat a man playing the fiddle, or the flute, or
+some other instrument of music. You and I have seen it in pictures. Our
+sons will say that they wish they had seen it in pictures. Our sons'
+sons will say it is all a lie and was never in anything but the
+pictures, and they will explain it by some myth or other.
+
+Another way is to take two turns of a rope round a donkey-engine, paying
+in and coiling while the engine clanks. And another way on smaller boats
+is a sort of jack arrangement by which you give little jerks to a
+ratchet and wheel, and at last It looses Its hold. Sometimes (in this
+last way) It will not loose Its hold at all.
+
+Then there is a way of which I proudly boast that it is the only way I
+know, which is to go forward and haul at the line until It comes--or
+does not come. If It does not come, you will not be so cowardly or so
+mean as to miss your tide for such a trifle. You will cut the line and
+tie a float on and pray Heaven that into whatever place you run, that
+place will have moorings ready and free.
+
+When a man weighs anchor in a little ship or a large one he does a jolly
+thing! He cuts himself off and he starts for freedom and for the chance
+of things. He pulls the jib a-weather, he leans to her slowly pulling
+round, he sees the wind getting into the mainsail, and he feels that she
+feels the helm. He has her on a slant of the wind, and he makes out
+between the harbour piers. I am supposing, for the sake of good luck,
+that it is not blowing bang down the harbour mouth, nor, for the matter
+of that, bang out of it. I am supposing, for the sake of good luck to
+this venture, that in weighing anchor you have the wind so that you can
+sail with it full and by, or freer still, right past the walls until you
+are well into the tide outside. You may tell me that you are so rich and
+your boat is so big that there have been times when you have anchored in
+the very open, and that all this does not apply to you. Why, then, your
+thoughts do not apply to me nor to the little boat I have in mind.
+
+In the weighing of anchor and the taking of adventure and of the sea
+there is an exact parallel to anything that any man can do in the
+beginning of any human thing, from his momentous setting out upon his
+life in early manhood to the least decision of his present passing day.
+It is a very proper emblem of a beginning. It may lead him to that kind
+of muddle and set-back which attaches only to beginnings, or it may get
+him fairly into the weather, and yet he may find, a little way outside,
+that he has to run for it, or to beat back to harbour. Or, more
+generously, it may lead him to a long and steady cruise in which he
+shall find profit and make distant rivers and continue to increase his
+log by one good landfall after another. But the whole point of weighing
+anchor is that he has chosen his weather and his tide, and that he is
+setting out. The thing is done.
+
+You will very commonly observe that, in land affairs, if good fortune
+follows a venture it is due to the marvellous excellence of its
+conductor, but if ill fortune, then to evil chance alone. Now, it is not
+so with the sea.
+
+The sea drives truth into a man like salt. A coward cannot long pretend
+to be brave at sea, nor a fool to be wise, nor a prig to be a good
+companion, and any venture connected with the sea is full of venture and
+can pretend to be nothing more. Nevertheless there is a certain pride in
+keeping a course through different weathers, in making the best of a
+tide, in using cats' paws in a dull race, and, generally, in knowing how
+to handle the thing you steer and to judge the water and the wind. Just
+because men have to tell the truth once they get into tide water, what
+little is due to themselves in their success thereon they are proud of
+and acknowledge.
+
+If your sailing venture goes well, sailing reader, take a just pride in
+it; there will be the less need for me to write, some few years hence,
+upon the art of picking up moorings, though I confess I would rather
+have written on that so far as the fun of writing was concerned. For
+picking up moorings is a far more tricky and amusing business than
+Getting It up. It differs with every conceivable circumstance of wind,
+and tide, and harbour, and rig, and freeboard, and light; and then there
+are so many stories to tell about it! As--how once a poor man picked up
+a rich man's moorings at Cowes and was visited by an aluminium boat, all
+splendid in the morning sun. Or again--how a stranger who had made
+Orford Haven (that very difficult place) on the very top of an
+equinoctial springtide, picked up a racing mark-buoy, taking it to be
+moorings, and dragged it with him all the way to Aldborough, and that
+right before the town of Orford, so making himself hateful to the Orford
+people.
+
+But I digress....
+
+
+
+
+The Reveillon
+
+
+There was in the regiment with which I served a man called Frocot,
+famous with his comrades because he had seen The Dead, for this
+experience, though common among the Scotch, is rare among the French, a
+sister nation. This man Frocot could neither write nor read, and was
+also the strongest man I ever knew. He was quite short and exceedingly
+broad, and he could break a penny with his hands, but this gift of
+strength, though young men value it so much, was thought little of
+compared with his perception of unseen things, for though the men, who
+were peasants, professed to laugh at it, and him, in their hearts they
+profoundly believed. It had been made clear to us that he could see and
+hear The Dead one night in January during a snowstorm, when he came in
+and woke me in barrack-room because he had heard the Loose Spur. Our
+spurs were not buckled on like the officers'; they were fixed into the
+heel of the boot, and if a nail loosened upon either side the spur
+dragged with an unmistakable noise. There was a sergeant who (for some
+reason) had one so loosened on the last night he had ever gone the
+rounds before his death, for in the morning as he came off guard he
+killed himself, and the story went about among the drivers that
+sometimes on stable guard in the thick of the night, when you watched
+all alone by the lantern (with your three comrades asleep in the straw
+of an empty stall), your blood would stop and your skin tauten at the
+sound of a loose spur dragging on the far side of the stable, in the
+dark. But though many had heard the story, and though some had pretended
+to find proof for it, I never knew a man to feel and know it except this
+man Frocot on that night. I remember him at the foot of my bed with his
+lantern waking me from the rooted sleep of bodily fatigue, standing
+there in his dark blue driver's coat and staring with terrible eyes. He
+had undoubtedly heard and seen, but whether of himself from within,
+imagining, or, as I rather believe, from without and influenced, it is
+impossible to say. He was rough and poor, and he came from the Forest of
+Ardennes.
+
+The reason I remember him and write of him at this season is not,
+however, this particular and dreadful visitation of his, but a folly or
+a vision that befell him at this time of the year, now seventeen years
+ago; for he had Christmas leave and was on his way from garrison to his
+native place, and he was walking the last miles of the wood. It was the
+night before Christmas. It was clear, and there was no wind, but the sky
+was overcast with level clouds and the evening was very dark. He started
+unfed since the first meal of the day; it was dark three hours before he
+was up into the high wood. He met no one during all these miles, and his
+body and his mind were lonely; he hoped to press on and be at his
+father's door before two in the morning or perhaps at one. The night was
+so still that he heard no noise in the high wood, not even the rustling
+of a leaf or a twig crackling, and no animal ran in the undergrowth. The
+moss of the ride was silent under his heavy tread, but now and then the
+steel of his side-arm clicked against a metal button of the great cloak
+he wore. This sharp sound made him so conscious of himself that he
+seemed to fill that forest with his own presence and to be all that was,
+there or elsewhere. He was in a mood of unreal and not holy things. The
+mood, remaining, changed its aspect, and now he was so far from alone
+that all the trunks around him and the glimmers of sky between bare
+boughs held each a spirit of its own, and with the powerful imagination
+of the unlearned he could have spoken and held communion with the trees;
+but it would have an evil communion, for he felt this mood of his take
+on a further phase as he went deeper and deeper still into these
+forests. He felt about him uneasily the sense of doom. He was in that
+exaltation of fancy or dream when faint appeals are half heard far off,
+but not by our human ears, and when whatever attempts to pierce the
+armour of our mortality appeals to us by wailing and by despairing
+sighs. It seemed to him that most unhappy things passed near him in the
+air, and that the wood about him was full of sobbing. Then, again, he
+felt his own mind within him begin to be occupied by doubtful troubles
+worse than these terrors, an anxious straining for ill news, for bitter
+and dreadful news, mixed with a confused certitude that such news had
+come indeed, disturbed and haunted him; and all the while about him in
+that stillness the rushing of unhappy spirits went like a secret storm.
+He was clouded with the mingled emotions of apprehension and of fatal
+mourning; he attempted to remember the expectations that had failed him,
+friends untrue, and the names of parents dead; but he was now the victim
+of this strange night and unable (whether from hunger or fatigue, or
+from that unique power of his to discern things beyond the world) to
+remember his life or his definite aims at all, or even his own name. He
+was mixed with the whole universe about him, and was suffering some loss
+so grievous that very soon the gait of his march and his whole being
+were informed by a large and final despair.
+
+It was in this great and universal mood (granted to him as a seer,
+though he was a common man) that he saw down the ride, but somewhat to
+one side of it in the heart of the high wood, a great light shining from
+a barn or shed that stood there in the undergrowth, and to this light,
+though his way naturally led him to it, he felt also impelled by an
+influence as strong as or stronger than the despair that had filled his
+soul and all the woods around. He went on therefore quickly, straining
+with his eyes, and when he came into the light that shone out from this
+he saw a more brilliant light within, and men of his own kind adoring;
+but the vision was confused, like light on light or like vapours moving
+over bright metals in a cauldron, and as he gazed his mind became still
+and the dread left him altogether. He said it was like shutting a
+gentleman's great oaken door against a driving storm.
+
+This is the story he told me weeks after as we rode together in the
+battery, for he hid it in his heart till the spring. As I say, I
+believed him.
+
+He was an unlearned man and a strong; he never worshipped. He was of
+that plain stuff and clay on which has worked since all recorded time
+the power of the Spirit.
+
+He said that when he left (as he did rapidly leave) that light, peace
+also left him, but that the haunting terror did not return. He found the
+clearing and his father's hut; fatigue and the common world indeed
+returned, but with them a permanent memory of things experienced.
+
+Every word I have written of him is true.
+
+
+
+
+On Cheeses
+
+
+If antiquity be the test of nobility, as many affirm and none deny
+(saving, indeed, that family which takes for its motto "Sola Virtus
+Nobilitas," which may mean that virtue is the only nobility, but which
+may also mean, mark you, that nobility is the only virtue--and anyhow
+denies that nobility is tested by the lapse of time), _if_, I say,
+antiquity be the only test of nobility, then cheese is a very noble
+thing.
+
+But wait a moment: there was a digression in that first paragraph which
+to the purist might seem of a complicated kind.
+
+Were I writing algebra (I wish I were) I could have analysed my thoughts
+by the use of square brackets, round brackets, twiddly brackets, and the
+rest, all properly set out in order so that a Common Fool could follow
+them.
+
+But no such luck! I may not write of algebra here; for there is a rule
+current in all newspapers that no man may write upon any matter save
+upon those in which he is more learned than all his human fellows that
+drag themselves so slowly daily forward to the grave.
+
+So I had to put the thing in the very common form of a digression, and
+very nearly to forget that great subject of cheese which I had put at
+the very head and title of this.
+
+Which reminds me: had I followed the rule set down by a London
+journalist the other day (and of the proprietor of his paper I will say
+nothing--though I might have put down the remark to his proprietor) I
+would have hesitated to write that first paragraph. I would have
+hesitated, did I say? Griffins' tails! Nay--Hippogriffs and other things
+of the night! I would not have dared to write it at all! For this
+journalist made a law and promulgated it, and the law was this: that no
+man should write that English which could not be understood if all the
+punctuation were left out. Punctuation, I take it, includes brackets,
+which the Lord of Printers knows are a very modern part of punctuation
+indeed.
+
+Now let the horripilised reader look up again at the first paragraph (it
+will do him no harm), and think how it would look all written out in
+fair uncials like the beautiful Gospels of St. Chad, which anyone may
+see for nothing in the cathedral of Lichfield, an English town famous
+for eight or nine different things: as Garrick, Doctor Johnson, and its
+two opposite inns. Come, read that first paragraph over now and see what
+you could make of it if it were written out in uncials--that is, not
+only without punctuation, but without any division between the words.
+Wow! As the philosopher said when he was asked to give a plain answer
+"Yes" or "No."
+
+And now to cheese. I have had quite enough of digressions and of
+follies. They are the happy youth of an article. They are the springtime
+of it. They are its riot. I am approaching the middle age of this
+article. Let us be solid upon the matter of cheese.
+
+I have premised its antiquity, which is of two sorts, as is that of a
+nobleman. First, the antiquity of its lineage; secondly, the antiquity
+of its self. For we all know that when we meet a nobleman we revere his
+nobility very much if he be himself old, and that this quality of age in
+him seems to marry itself in some mysterious way with the antiquity of
+his line.
+
+The lineage of cheese is demonstrably beyond all record. What did the
+faun in the beginning of time when a god surprised him or a mortal had
+the misfortune to come across him in the woods? It is well known that
+the faun offered either of them cheese. So he knew how to make it.
+
+There are certain bestial men, hangers-on of the Germans, who would
+contend that this would prove cheese to be acquired by the Aryan race
+(or what not) from the Dolichocephalics (or what not), and there are
+certain horrors who descend to imitate these barbarians--though
+themselves born in these glorious islands, which are so steep upon their
+western side. But I will not detain you upon these lest I should fall
+head foremost into another digression and forget that my article,
+already in its middle age, is now approaching grey hairs.
+
+At any rate, cheese is very old. It is beyond written language. Whether
+it is older than butter has been exhaustively discussed by several
+learned men, to whom I do not send you because the road towards them
+leads elsewhere. It is the universal opinion of all most accustomed to
+weigh evidence (and in these I very properly include not only such
+political hacks as are already upon the bench but sweepingly every
+single lawyer in Parliament, since any one of them may tomorrow be a
+judge) that milk is older than cheese, and that man had the use of milk
+before he cunningly devised the trick of squeezing it in a press and by
+sacrificing something of its sweetness endowed it with a sort of
+immortality.
+
+The story of all this has perished. Do not believe any man who professes
+to give it you. If he tells you some legend of a god who taught the
+Wheat-eating Race, the Ploughers, and the Lords to make cheese, tell him
+such tales are true symbols, but symbols only. If he tells you that
+cheese was an evolution and a development, oh! then!--bring up your
+guns! Open on the fellow and sweep his intolerable lack of intelligence
+from the earth. Ask him if he discovers reality to be a function of
+time, and Being to hide in clockwork. Keep him on the hop with ironical
+comments upon how it may be that environment can act upon Will, while
+Will can do nothing with environment--whose proper name is mud. Pester
+the provincial. Run him off the field.
+
+But about cheese. Its noble antiquity breeds in it a noble diffusion.
+
+This happy Christendom of ours (which is just now suffering from an
+indigestion and needs a doctor--but having also a complication of
+insomnia cannot recollect his name) has been multifarious
+incredibly--but in nothing more than in cheese!
+
+One cheese differs from another, and the difference is in sweeps, and in
+landscapes, and in provinces, and in countrysides, and in climates, and
+in principalities, and in realms, and in the nature of things. Cheese
+does most gloriously reflect the multitudinous effect of earthly things,
+which could not be multitudinous did they not proceed from one mind.
+
+Consider the cheese of Rocquefort: how hard it is in its little box.
+Consider the cheese of Camembert, which is hard also, and also lives in
+a little box, but must not be eaten until it is soft and yellow.
+Consider the cheese of Stilton, which is not made there, and of Cheddar,
+which is. Then there is your Parmesan, which idiots buy rancid in
+bottles, but which the wise grate daily for their use: you think it is
+hard from its birth? You are mistaken. It is the world that hardens the
+Parmesan. In its youth the Parmesan is very soft and easy, and is
+voraciously devoured.
+
+Then there is your cheese of Wensleydale, which is made in Wensleydale,
+and your little Swiss cheese, which is soft and creamy and eaten with
+sugar, and there is your Cheshire cheese and your little Cornish cheese,
+whose name escapes me, and your huge round cheese out of the Midlands,
+as big as a fort whose name I never heard. There is your toasted or
+Welsh cheese, and your cheese of Pont-l'eveque, and your white cheese of
+Brie, which is a chalky sort of cheese. And there is your cheese of
+Neufchatel, and there is your Gorgonzola cheese, which is mottled all
+over like some marbles, or like that Mediterranean soap which is made of
+wood-ash and of olive oil. There is your Gloucester cheese called the
+Double Gloucester, and I have read in a book of Dunlop cheese, which is
+made in Ayrshire: they could tell you more about it in Kilmarnock. Then
+Suffolk makes a cheese, but does not give it any name; and talking of
+that reminds me how going to Le Quesnoy to pass the people there the
+time of day, and to see what was left of that famous but forgotten
+fortress, a young man there showed me a cheese, which he told me also
+had no name, but which was native to the town, and in the valley of Ste.
+Engrace, where is that great wood which shuts off all the world, they
+make their cheese of ewe's milk and sell it in Tardets, which is their
+only livelihood. They make a cheese in Port-Salut which is a very subtle
+cheese, and there is a cheese of Limburg, and I know not how many
+others, or rather I know them, but you have had enough: for a little
+cheese goes a long way. No man is a glutton on cheese.
+
+What other cheese has great holes in it like Gruyere, or what other is
+as round as a cannon-ball like that cheese called Dutch? which reminds
+me:--
+
+Talking of Dutch cheese. Do you not notice how the intimate mind of
+Europe is reflected in cheese? For in the centre of Europe, and where
+Europe is most active, I mean in Britain and in Gaul and in Northern
+Italy, and in the valley of the Rhine--nay, to some extent in Spain (in
+her Pyrenean valleys at least)--there flourishes a vast burgeoning of
+cheese, infinite in variety, one in goodness. But as Europe fades away
+under the African wound which Spain suffered or the Eastern barbarism of
+the Elbe, what happens to cheese? It becomes very flat and similar. You
+can quote six cheeses perhaps which the public power of Christendom has
+founded outside the limits of its ancient Empire--but not more than six.
+I will quote you 253 between the Ebro and the Grampians, between
+Brindisi and the Irish Channel.
+
+I do not write vainly. It is a profound thing.
+
+
+
+
+The Captain of Industry
+
+
+The heir of the merchant Mahmoud had not disappointed that great
+financier while he still lived, and when he died he had the satisfaction
+of seeing the young man, now twenty-five years of age, successfully
+conducting his numerous affairs, and increasing (fabulous as this may
+seem) the millions with which his uncle entrusted him.
+
+Shortly after Mahmoud's death the prosperity of the firm had already
+given rise to a new proverb, and men said: "Do you think I am
+Mahmoud's-Nephew?" when they were asked to lend money or in some other
+way to jeopardize a few coppers in the service of God or their
+neighbour.
+
+It was also a current expression, "He's rich as Mahmoud's-Nephew," when
+comrades would jest against some young fellow who was flusher than
+usual, and could afford a quart or even a gallon of wine for the
+company; while again the discontented and the oppressed would mutter
+between their teeth: "Heaven will take vengeance at last upon these
+Mahmoud's-Nephews!" In a word, "Mahmoud's-Nephew" came to mean
+throughout the whole Caliphate and wherever the True Believers spread
+their empire, an exceedingly wealthy man. But Mahmoud himself having
+been dead ten years and his heir the fortunate head of the establishment
+being now well over thirty years of age, there happened a very
+inexplicable and outrageous accident: he died--and after his death no
+instructions were discovered as to what should be done with this
+enormous capital, no will could be found, and it happened moreover to be
+a moment of great financial delicacy when the manager of each department
+in the business needed all the credit he could get.
+
+In such a quandary the Chief Organizer and confidential friend, Ahmed,
+upon whom the business already largely depended, and who was so
+circumstanced that he could draw almost at will upon the balances,
+imagined a most intelligent way of escaping from the difficulties that
+would arise when the death of the principal was known.
+
+He caused a quantity of hay, of straw, of dust and of other worthless
+materials to be stuffed into a figure of canvas; this he wrapped round
+with the usual clothes that Mahmoud's-Nephew had worn in the office, he
+shrouded the face with the hood which his chief had commonly worn during
+life, and having so dressed the lay figure and secretly buried the real
+body, he admitted upon the morning after the death those who first had
+business with his master.
+
+He met them at the door with smiles and bows, saying: "You know,
+gentlemen, that like most really successful men, my chief is as silent
+as his decisions are rapid; he will listen to what you have to say, and
+it will be a plain yes or no at the end of it."
+
+These gentlemen came with a proposal to sell to the firm for the sum of
+one million dinars a barren rock in the Indian Sea, which was not even
+theirs, and on which indeed not one of them had ever set eyes. Their
+claim to advance so original a proposal was that to their certain
+knowledge two thousand of the wealthiest citizens of their town were
+willing to buy the rock again at a profit from whoever should be its
+possessor during the next few weeks in the fond hope of selling it once
+again to provincials, clerics, widows, orphans, and in general the
+uninstructed and the credulous--among whom had been industriously spread
+the report that the rock in question consisted of one solid and flawless
+diamond.
+
+These gentlemen sitting round the table before the shrouded figure laid
+down their proposals, whereupon the manager briefly summed up what they
+had said, and having done so, replied: "Gentlemen, his lordship is a man
+of few words; but you will have your answer in a moment if you will be
+good enough to rise, as he is at this moment expecting a deputation from
+the Holy Men who are entreating him to provide the cost of a mosque in
+one of the suburbs."
+
+The proposers of the bargain rose, greatly awed and pleased by the
+silence and dignity of the financier who apparently remained for a
+moment discussing their proposals without gesture and in a tone too low
+for them to hear, while his manager bent over to listen.
+
+"It is ever so," said one of them, "you may ever know the greatest men
+by their silence."
+
+"You are right," said another, "he is not one to be easily deceived."
+
+The manager in a moment or two rejoined them at the door. "Gentlemen,"
+he said, smiling, "my chief has heard your arguments and has expressed
+his assent to your conditions."
+
+They went out, delighted at the success of their mission, and
+congratulated Ahmed upon the financier's genius.
+
+"He does not," said the manager, laughing in hearty agreement, "bestow
+himself as a present upon all and sundry. Nor is he often caught
+indulging in short bouts of sleep, nor are flies diabolically left to
+repose undisturbed upon his features--but you must excuse me, I hear the
+Holy Men," and indeed from the inner room came a noise of speechifying
+in that doleful sing-song which is associated in Bagdad with the
+practice of religion.
+
+The gentlemen who had thus had the luck to interview Mahmoud's-Nephew
+with such success in the matter of the Diamond Island, soon spread about
+the news, and confirmed their fellow-citizens in the certitude that a
+great financier is neither talkative nor vivacious. "Still waters run
+deep," they said, and all those to whom they said it nodded in a wise
+acquiescence. Nor had the Manager the least difficulty in receiving one
+set of customers after another and in negotiating within three weeks an
+infinite amount of business, all of which confirmed those who had the
+pleasure of an audience with the stuffed dummy that great fortunes were
+made and retained by reticence and a contempt for convivial weakness.
+
+At last the ingenious man of affairs, to whom the whole combination was
+due, was not a little disturbed to receive from the Caliph a note
+couched in the following terms:
+
+"The Commander of the Faithful and the Servant of the Merciful whose
+name be exalted, to the Nephew of Mahmoud:
+
+"My Lord:--
+
+"It has been the custom since the days of my grandfather (May his soul
+see God!) for the more wealthy of the Faithful to be called to my
+councils, and upon my summoning them thither it has not been unusual for
+them to present sums varying in magnitude but always proportionate to
+their total fortunes. My court will receive signal honour if you will
+present yourself after the morning prayer of the day after to-morrow. My
+treasurer will receive from you with gratitude and remembrance upon the
+previous day and not later than noon, the sum of one million dinars."
+
+Here, indeed, was a perplexity. The payment of the money was an easy
+matter and was duly accomplished; but how should the lay figure which
+did duty in such domestic scenes as the negotiation of loans, the
+bullying of debtors, the purchase of options, and the cheating of the
+innocent and the embarrassed, take his place in the Caliph's council and
+remain undiscovered? For great as was the reputation of Mahmoud's-Nephew
+for discretion and for golden silence, such as are proper to the
+accumulation of great wealth, there would seem a necessity in any
+political assembly to open the mouth from time to time, if only for the
+giving of a vote.
+
+But Ahmed, who had by this time accumulated into his own hands the
+millions formerly his master's, finally solved the problem. Judicious
+presents to the servants of the palace and the public criers made his
+way the easier, and on the summoning of the council Mahmoud's-Nephew,
+whose troublesome affection of the throat was now publicly discussed,
+was permitted to bring into the council-room his private secretary and
+manager.
+
+Moreover at the council, as at his private office, the continued
+taciturnity of the millionaire could not but impress the politicians as
+it had already impressed the financial world.
+
+"He does not waste his breath in tub-thumping," said one, looking
+reverently at the sealed figure.
+
+"No," another would reply, "they may ridicule our old-fashioned, honest,
+quiet Mohammedan country gentlemen, but for common sense I will back
+them against all the brilliant paradoxical young fellows of our day."
+
+"They say he is very kind at heart and lovable," a third would then add,
+upon which a fourth would bear his testimony thus:
+
+"Yes, and though he says nothing about it, his charitable gifts are
+enormous."
+
+By the second meeting of the council the lay figure had achieved a
+reputation of so high a sort that the Caliph himself insisted upon
+making him a domestic adviser, one of the three who perpetually
+associated with the Commander of the _Faithful_ and directed his
+policy. For the universal esteem in which the new councillor was held
+had affected that Prince very deeply.
+
+Here there arose a crux from which there could be no escape, as one of
+the three chief councillors, Mahmoud's-Nephew, must speak at last and
+deliver judgments!
+
+The Manager, first considering the whole business, and next adding up
+his private gains, which he had carefully laid out in estates of which
+the firm and its employes knew nothing, decided that he could afford to
+retire. What might happen to the general business after his withdrawal
+would not be his concern.
+
+He first gave out, therefore, that the millionaire was taken exceedingly
+ill, and that his life was despaired of: later, within a few hours, that
+he was dead.
+
+So far from attempting to allay the panic which ensued, Ahmed frankly
+admitted the worst.
+
+With cries of despair and a confident appeal to the justice of Heaven
+against such intrigues, the honest fellow permitted the whole of the
+vast business to be wound up in favour of newcomers, who had not
+forgotten to reward him, and soothing as best he could the ruined crowds
+of small investors who thronged round him for help and advice, he
+retired under an assumed name to his highly profitable estates, which
+were situated in the most distant provinces of the known world.
+
+As for Mahmoud's-Nephew, three theories arose about him which are still
+disputed to this day:
+
+The first was that his magnificent brain with its equitable judgment and
+its power of strict secrecy, had designed plans too far advanced for his
+time, and that his bankruptcy was due to excess of wisdom.
+
+The second theory would have it that by "going into politics" (as the
+phrase runs in Bagdad) he had dissipated his energies, neglected his
+business, and that the inevitable consequences had followed.
+
+The third theory was far more reasonable. Mahmoud's-Nephew, according to
+this, had towards the end of his life lost judgment; his garrulous
+indecision within the last few days before his death was notorious: in
+the Caliph's council, as those who should best know were sure, one could
+hardly get a word in edgewise for his bombastic self-assurance; while in
+matters of business, to conduct a bargain with him was more like
+attending a public meeting than the prosecution of negotiations with a
+respectable banker.
+
+In a word, it was generally agreed that Mahmoud's-Nephew's success had
+been bound up with his splendid silence, his fall, bankruptcy, and
+death, with a lesion of the brain which had disturbed this miracle of
+self-control.
+
+
+
+
+The Inventor
+
+
+I had a day free between two lectures in the south-west of England, and
+I spent it stopping at a town in which there was a large and very
+comfortable old posting-house or coaching-inn. I had meant to stay some
+few hours there and to take the last train out in the evening, and I had
+meant to spend those hours alone and resting; but this was not permitted
+me, for just as I had taken up the local paper, which was a humble,
+reasonable thing, empty of any passion and violence and very reposeful
+to read, a man came up and touched my left elbow sharply: a gesture not
+at all to my taste nor, I think, to that of anyone who is trying to read
+his paper.
+
+I looked up and saw a man who must have been quite sixty years of age.
+He had on a soft, felt slouch hat, a very old and greenish black coat;
+he stooped and shuffled; he was clean-shaven, with long grey hair, and
+his eyes were astonishingly bright and piercing and set close together.
+
+He said, "I beg your pardon."
+
+I said, "Eh, what?"
+
+He said again "I beg your pardon" in the tones of a man who almost
+commands, and having said this he put his hat on the table, dragged a
+chair quite close to mine, and pulled a folded bunch of foolscap sheets
+out of his pocket. His manner was that of a man who engages your
+attention and has a right to engage it. There were no preliminaries and
+there was no introduction. This was apparently his manner, and I
+submitted.
+
+"I have here," he said, fixing me with his intense eyes, "the plans for
+a speedometer."
+
+"Oh!" said I.
+
+"You know what a speedometer is?" he asked suspiciously.
+
+I said yes. I said it was a machine for measuring the speed of vehicles,
+and that it was compounded of two (or more) Greek words.
+
+He nodded; he was pleased that I knew so much, and could therefore
+listen to his tale and understand it. He pulled his grey baggy trousers
+up over the knee, settled himself, sitting forward, and opened his
+document. He cleared his throat, still fixing me with those eyes of his,
+and said--
+
+"Every speedometer up to now has depended upon the same principle as a
+Watt's governor; that is, there are two little balls attached to each by
+a limb to a central shaft: they rise and fall according to their speed
+of rotation, and this movement is indicated upon a dial."
+
+I nodded.
+
+He cleared his throat again. "Of course, that is unsatisfactory."
+
+"Damnably!" said I, but this reply did not check him.
+
+"It works tolerably well at high speeds; at low speeds it is useless;
+and then again there is a very rapid fluctuation, and the instrument is
+of only approximate precision."
+
+"Not it!" said I to encourage him.
+
+"There is one exception," he continued, "to this principle, and that is
+a speedometer which depends upon the introduction of resistance into a
+current generated by a small magneto. The faster the magneto turns the
+stronger the current generated, and the change is indicated upon a
+dial."
+
+"Yes," said I sadly, "as in the former case so in this; the change of
+speed is indicated upon a dial." And I sighed.
+
+"But this method also," he went on tenaciously, "has its defects."
+
+"You may lay to that," I interrupted.
+
+"It has the defect that at high speeds its readings are not quite
+correct, and at very low speeds still less so. Moreover, it is said that
+it slightly deteriorates with the passage of time."
+
+"Now that," I broke in emphatically, "is a defect I have discovered
+in----"
+
+But he put up his hand to stop me. "It slightly deteriorates, I say,
+with the passage of time." He paused a moment impressively. "No one has
+hitherto discovered any system which will accurately record the speed of
+a vehicle or of any rotary movement and register it at the lowest as at
+the highest speeds." He paused again for a still longer period in order
+to give still greater emphasis to what he had to say. He concluded in a
+new note of sober triumph: "I have solved the problem!"
+
+I thought this was the end of him, and I got up and beamed a
+congratulation at him and asked if he would drink anything, but he only
+said, "Please sit down again and I will explain."
+
+There is no way of combating this sort of thing, and so I sat down, and
+he went on:
+
+"It is perfectly simple...." He passed his hand over his forehead. "It
+is so simple that one would say it must have been thought of before; but
+that is what is always said of a great invention.... Now I have here"
+(and he opened out his foolscap) "the full details. But I will not read
+them to you; I will summarize them briefly."
+
+"Have you a plan or anything I could watch?" said I a little anxiously.
+
+"No," he answered sharply, "I have not, but if you like I will draw a
+rough sketch as I go along upon the margin of your newspaper."
+
+"Thank you," I said.
+
+He drew the newspaper towards him and put it on his knee. He pulled out
+a pencil; he held the foolscap up before his eye, and he began to
+describe.
+
+"The general principle upon which my speedometer reposes," he said
+solemnly, "is the coordination of the cylinder and the cone upon an
+angle which will have to be determined in practice, and will probably
+vary for different types. But it will never fall below 15 nor rise over
+43."
+
+"I should have thought----" I began, but he told me I could not yet have
+grasped it, and that he wished to be more explicit.
+
+"On a king bolt," he said, occasionally consulting his notes, "runs a
+pivot in bevel which is kept in place by a small hair-spring, which
+spring fits loosely on the Conkling Shaft."
+
+"Exactly," said I, "I see what is coming."
+
+But he wouldn't let me off so easily.
+
+"Yes, of course you are going to say that the whole will be keyed
+together, and that the T-pattern nuts on a movable shank will be my
+method of attachment to the fixed portion next to the cam? Eh? So it is,
+but" (and here his eye brightened), "_anyone_ could have arranged
+that. My particularity is that I have a freedom of movement even at the
+lowest speeds, and an accuracy of notation even at the highest, which is
+secured in a wholly novel manner ... and yet so simply. What do you
+think it is?"
+
+I affected to look puzzled, and thought for a moment. "I cannot
+imagine," said I, "unless----"
+
+"No," he interrupted, "do not try to guess it, for you never will. _I
+turn the flange inward_ on a Wilkinson lathe and give it a parabolic
+section so that the axes are always parallel to each other and to the
+shaft.... There!"
+
+I had no idea the man could be so moved: there was jubilation in his
+voice.
+
+"There!" he said again, as though some effort of the brain had exhausted
+him. "It can't be touched, mind you," he added suspiciously; "I've taken
+out the provisional patents. There's one man I know wants to fight it in
+the courts as an infringement on Wilkinson's own patent, but it can't be
+touched!" He shook his head decisively. "No! my lawyer's certain of
+that--and so'm I!"
+
+Here there was a break in his communications, so to speak, and he had
+apparently run out. It was not for me to wind him up again. I watched
+him with a sombre relief as he stood up again to full height, leaned his
+head back, and sighed profoundly with satisfaction and with completion.
+He folded up his specification and put it in his pocket again. He tore
+off the incomprehensible sketch he had made with his pencil while he was
+speaking, and put it by me on the mantelshelf. "You might like to keep
+it," he said pathetically; "it's a document, that is; it will be famous
+some day." He looked at it lovingly, almost as though he was going to
+take it back again: but he thought better of it.
+
+I was waiting, I will not say itching, for him to take his leave, when a
+god or demon, that same perhaps which had treated the poor fellow as a
+jest for a whole lifetime, inspired him to take a very false step
+indeed. He had already taken up his hat and was turning as though to go
+to the door, when the unfortunate thought struck him.
+
+"What would you do?" he said.
+
+"How do you mean?" I answered.
+
+"Why, what would you do to try and get it taken up and talked about?"
+
+Then it was my turn, and I let him have it.
+
+"You must get the Press and the Government to work together," I said
+rapidly, "and particularly in connection with the new Government Service
+of Camion's Fettle-Trains and Cursory Circuits."
+
+He nodded like one who thoroughly understands and desires to hear more.
+
+"Speed," I added nonchalantly, "and the measure of it are of course
+essentials in their case."
+
+He nodded again.
+
+"And they have never really settled the problem ... especially about
+Fettle-Trains."
+
+"No," said he ponderously, "so I understand."
+
+
+"Well now," I went on, full of the chase, "you will naturally ask me who
+are you to go to?" I scratched my nose. "You know the Fusionary Office,
+as we call it? It is really, of course, a part of the Stannaries. But
+the Chief Permanent Secretary likes to have it called the Fusionary
+Office; it's his vanity."
+
+"Yes," said he eagerly, "yes, go on!"
+
+"They always have the same hours," I said, "four to eleven."
+
+"Four to _what_?" he asked, looking up.
+
+"To eleven," I repeated sharply; "but you'd much better call round about
+three."
+
+He looked bewildered.
+
+"Don't interrupt," I said, seeing him open his lips, "or I shall lose
+the thread. It's rather complicated. You call at three by the little
+door in Whitehall on the Embankment side towards the Horse Guards
+looking south, and _don't_ ring the bell."
+
+"Why not?" he asked. I thought for the moment he might begin to cry.
+
+"Oh, well," I said testily, "you mustn't ask those questions. All these
+institutions are very old institutions with habits and prejudices of
+their own. You mustn't ring the bell, that's all; they don't like it;
+you must just wait until they open; and then, if you take _my_
+advice, don't write a note or ask to interview the First Analyist. Don't
+do any of the usual things, but just fill up one of the regular Treasury
+forms and state that you have come with regard to the Perception and
+Mensuration advertisements."
+
+His face was pained and wrinkled as he heard me, but he said, "I beg
+your pardon ... but shall I have it all explained to me at the office?"
+
+"Certainly not!" I said, aghast; "it's just because you might have so
+much difficulty there that I'm explaining everything to you."
+
+"Yes, I know," he said doubtfully; "thank you."
+
+"I hope you'll try and follow what I say," I continued a little wearily;
+"I have special opportunities for knowing.... Political, you know."
+
+"Certainly," he said, "certainly; but about those forms?"
+
+"Well," I said, "you didn't suppose they supplied them, did you?"
+
+"I almost did," he ventured.
+
+"Oh, you did," said I, with a loud laugh, "well, you're wrong there.
+However, I dare say I've got one on me." He looked up eagerly as I felt
+in my pockets. I brought out a telegraph blank, two letters, and a
+tobacco pouch. I looked at them for a moment. "No," said I, "I haven't
+got one; it's a pity, but I'll tell you who will give you one; you know
+the place opposite, where the bills are drafted?"
+
+"I'm afraid I don't," he said, admitting ignorance for the first time in
+this conversation and perhaps in his life.
+
+"Well," said I impatiently, "never mind, anyone will show you. Go there,
+and if they don't give you a form they'll show you a copy of Paper B,
+which is much the same thing."
+
+"Thank you," said he humbly, and he got up to move out. He was going a
+little groggily, his eyes were dull and sodden. He presented all the
+aspect of a man under a heavy strain.
+
+"You've got it all clear, I hope?" I asked cheerfully as he neared the
+door.
+
+"Oh, yes!" he said. "Thank you; yes!"
+
+"Anything else?" I shouted as he passed out into the courtyard.
+"Anything else I can do? You'll always find me in the room over the
+office, Room H, down the little iron staircase," I nodded genially to
+him as he disappeared.
+
+In this way did we exchange, the Inventor and I, those expert
+confidences and mutual aids in either's technical skill which are too
+rarely discovered in modern travel.
+
+
+
+
+The Views of England
+
+
+England is a country with edges and with a core. It is a country very
+small for the number of people who live in it, and very appreciable to
+the eye for the traveller who travels on foot or in a boat from place to
+place. Considering the part it has in the making of the world, it might
+justly be compared to a jewel which is very small and very valuable and
+can almost be held in the hand. The physical appreciation of England is
+to be reached by an appreciation of landscape.
+
+It so happens that England is traversed by remarkable and sudden ranges;
+hills with a sharp escarpment overlooking great undulating plains. This
+is not true of any other one country of Europe, but it is true of
+England, and a man who professes to consider, to understand, to
+criticize, to defend, and to love this country, must know the Pennines,
+the Cotswolds, the North and the South Downs, the Chilterns, the
+Mendips, and the Malverns; he must know Delamere Forest, and he must
+know the Hill of Beeston, from which all Cheshire may be perceived. If
+he knows these heights and has long considered the prospects which they
+afford, he can claim to have seen the face of England.
+
+It is deplorable that our modern method of travel does cut us off from
+such experiences. They were not only common to, they were necessary to
+our fathers; the roads would not be at the expense of tunnelling through
+hills, and (what is more important) when those men who most mould the
+knowledge of the country by the country (the people who deal with its
+soil, who live separate upon its separate farms) visited each other upon
+horses; and horses, unlike railway trains, cannot climb hills. They
+puff, they heave, they snort, as do railway trains, but they climb them
+well.
+
+On this account, because the roads for the carriages went over hills,
+and because the method of visiting even a near neighbour would permit
+you to go over hills, the England of quite a little time ago was
+familiar with the half-dozen great landscapes of England. You may see it
+in that most individual, that most peculiar, and, I think, that most
+glorious school of painters, the English landscape painter, Constable
+with his thick colours, Turner with his wonderment, and even the
+portrait painters in their backgrounds depend upon the view of the
+plains from a height. To-day our landscape painters sometimes do the
+same, but the market for that emotion is capricious, it is no longer the
+secure and natural way of presenting England to English eyes.
+
+If you will consider these plains at the foot of the English hills you
+will find in them the whole history of the country, and the whole
+meaning of it as well. Two occur to me first: The view of the Weald
+(both Kentish and Sussex) through which the influence of Europe
+perpetually approached the island, not only in the crisis of the Roman
+or the Norman invasions, but in a hundred episodes stretched out through
+two thousand years--and the view of the Thames Valley as one gets it on
+a clear day from the summits of the North Downs when one looks northward
+and sees very faintly the Chilterns along the horizon.
+
+This last is obscured by London. One needs a very particular
+circumstance in which to appreciate it. The air must be dry and clear,
+there must be little or no wind, or if there is a wind it must be a
+strong one from the south and west that has already driven the smoke
+from the western edge of the town. When this is so, a man looks right
+across to the sandy heights just north of the Thames, and far beyond he
+sees the Chilterns, like a landfall upon the rim of the world. He looks
+at all that soil on which the government of this country has been
+rooted. He sees the hill of Windsor. He overlooks, though he cannot
+perceive at so great a distance, the two great schools of the rich; he
+has within one view the principal Castle of the Kings, the place of
+their council, and the cathedral of their capital city: so true is it
+that the Thames made England.
+
+Then, if you consider the upper half of that valley, the view is from
+the ridge of the Berkshire hills, or, better still, from Cumnor, or from
+the clump of trees above Faringdon. From such look-outs the astonishing
+loneliness which England has had the strength to preserve in this
+historic belt of land profoundly strikes a man. You can see to your left
+and, a long way off, the hill where, as is most probable, Alfred thrust
+back the Pagans, and so saved one-half of Christendom. Oxford is within
+your landscape. The roll upwards in a glacis of the Cotswold, the nodal
+point of the Roman roads at Cirencester, and the ancient crossings of
+the Thames.
+
+From the Cotswold again westward you look over a sheer wall and see one
+of those differences which make up England. For the passage from the
+Upper Thames to the flat and luxuriant valley floor of the Severn is a
+transition (if it be made by crossing the hills) more sudden than that
+between many countries abroad. Had our feudalism cut England into
+provinces we should here have two marked provincial histories marching
+together, for the natural contrast is greater than between Normandy and
+Brittany at any part of their march or between Aragon and Castile at any
+part of theirs. I do not know what it is, but the view of the jagged
+Malvern seen above the happy mists of autumn, when these mists lie like
+a warm fleece upon the orchards of the vale, preserving them of a
+morning until the strengthening of the sun, the sudden aspect, I say, of
+those jagged peaks strikes one like a vision of a new world. How many
+men have thought it! How often it ought to be written down! It hangs in
+the memory of the traveller like a permanent benediction, and remains in
+his mind a standing symbol of peace.
+
+I have no space to speak of how from Beeston you see all Cheshire; the
+Vale Royal to your left, and the main plain of the county to your right.
+The whole stretch is framed in with definite hills, the last and highly
+marked line of the Pennines bounds the view upon the east; upon the west
+the first of the Welsh hills stands sharply in a long even line against
+the fading sun; and on the north you see the height of Delamere. There
+are three other views in the North of England, the first easy, the last
+two difficult to obtain, all between them making up a true picture of
+what the North of England is. The first (and it is very famous) is the
+view over the industrial ferment of South Lancashire, seen from the
+complete silence of the hills round the Peak. No matter where you cross
+that summit, even if you take the high road from the Snake Inn to
+Glossop, where the easiest, and therefore the least striking, passage
+has been chosen, much more if you follow the wild heights a little to
+the south until you come to a more abrupt descent on which there are not
+even paths, there comes a point where there is presented to you in one
+great offering, without introduction, a vision of the vast energies of
+England.
+
+I remember once in winter when the sun sets early (it was December, and
+seven years ago) coming upon this sight. The clouds were so arranged
+after an Atlantic storm that all the heaven (which here is always
+spacious and noble) was covered with a rolling curtain as though a man
+had pulled it with his hands. But far off, westward, there was a broad
+red band of sunset, and against this the smoke, the tall stacks, the
+violence and the wealth of that cauldron. One could almost hear the
+noise. It did arrest one; it was as though someone had painted something
+unreal, to be a mystical emblem, and to sum up in one picture all those
+million despairs, misfortunes, chances, disciplines, and acquirements
+which make up the character of Lancashire men. This vision also many men
+have seen and many men shall write of. Very rarely upon the surface of
+the earth does the soul take on so immediate and obvious a physical body
+as does the soul of that industrial world in the view of which I speak.
+
+And the two other views are, first, that difficult one which one must
+pick and choose but which can be obtained from several sites (especially
+at the end of Wensleydale), and which is the view of that rich, old, and
+agricultural Yorkshire, from which the county draws its traditions and
+in which, perhaps, the truest spirit of the county still abides; for
+Yorkshire is at heart farmer, and possibly after three generations of a
+town, a man from this part of England still looks more lively when he
+sees a lively horse put before him for judgment. Second, the view from
+Cross Fell, very, very difficult to obtain, for often when one climbs
+Cross Fell in sunny weather, one gets up over the Scar under the threat
+of cloud, and one only reaches the summit by the time the evening or the
+mist has fallen; but if one has the luck to see the view of which I
+speak, then one sees all that rugged remaining part of the Northwest
+exactly as the Romans saw it, and as it has been for two thousand years,
+with the high land of the lakes and the stony nature and the sparseness
+of all the stretch about one, and the approach to a foreign land.
+
+I have often thought when I have heard men blaming the story of England
+or her present mood for false reasons, or, what is worse, praising her
+for false reasons; when I have heard the men of the cities talking wild
+talk got from maps and from print, or the disappointed men talking wild
+talk of another kind, expecting impossible or foreign perfections from
+their own kindred--I have often thought, I say, when I have heard the
+folly upon either side (and the mass of it daily increases)--that it
+would be a wholesome thing if one could take such a talker and make him
+walk from Dover to the Solway, exercising some care that he should rise
+before the sun, and that he should see in clear weather the views of
+which I speak. A man who has done that has seen England--not the name or
+the map or the rhetorical catchword, but the thing. And it does not take
+so very long.
+
+
+
+
+The Lunatic
+
+
+Those who are interested in what simple straightforward people call the
+Pathology of Consciousness have gathered a great body of evidence upon
+the various manias that affect men, and there is an especially
+interesting department of this which concerns illusion upon matters
+which in the sane are determinable by the senses and common experience.
+Thus one man will believe himself to be the Emperor of China, another to
+be William Shakespeare or some other impossible person, though one would
+imagine that his every accident of daily life would convince him to the
+contrary.
+
+I had recently occasion to watch one of the most harmless and yet one of
+the most striking of these illusions in a private asylum which has
+specialized, if I may so express myself, upon men of letters. The case
+was harmless and even benign, for the poor fellow was not of a combative
+disposition to begin with, was of too careful and dignified a
+temperament to show more than slight irritation if his delusion were
+contradicted. This misfortune, however, very rarely overtook him, for
+those who came to visit him were warned to humour his whim. This
+eccentricity I will now describe.
+
+He imagined, nay he was convinced, that he was existing fifty years in
+the future, and that the interest of his conversation for others would
+lie in his reminiscence of the state of society in which we are actually
+living today. If anyone who had not been warned was imprudent enough to
+suggest that the conversation was taking place in 1909 would smile
+gently, nod, and say rather bitterly, "Yes, I know, I know," as though
+recognizing a universal plot against him which he was too weary to
+combat. But when he had said this he would continue to talk on as though
+both parties to the conversation were equally convinced that the year
+was really 1960 or thereabouts. Whether to add zest to what he said or
+from some part of his malady consonant with all the rest, my poor friend
+(who had been a journalist and will very possibly be a journalist again)
+presupposed that the whole structure of society as we now know it had
+changed and that his reminiscences were those of a past time which, on
+account of some great revolution or other, men imperfectly comprehended,
+so that it must be of the highest interest and advantage to listen to
+the testimony of an eye-witness upon them.
+
+What especially delighted him (for he was a zealous admirer of the
+society he described) was the method of government.
+
+"There was no possibility of going wrong," he said to me with curious
+zeal, "not a shadow of danger! It would be difficult for you to
+understand now how easily the system worked!" And here he sighed
+profoundly. "And why on earth," he continued, "men should have destroyed
+such an instrument when they had it is more than I can understand. There
+it was in every country in Europe; there were elections; all the men
+voted. And mind you, the elections were not so very far apart. Most
+people living at one election could remember the last, so there was no
+time for abuses to spring up.... Well, everybody voted. If a man wanted
+one thing he voted one way, and if he wanted another thing he voted the
+other way. The people for whom he voted would then meet, and with a
+sense of duty which I cannot exaggerate they would work month after
+month exactly to reproduce the will of those who had appointed them. It
+was a great time!"
+
+"Yet," said I, "even so there must have been occasional divergences
+between what these people did and what the nation wanted."
+
+"I see what you mean," he said, musing, "you mean that all the devotion
+in the world, the purest of motives and the most devoted sense of duty,
+could not keep the elected always in contact with the electors. You are
+right. But you must remember that in every country there was a
+machinery, with regard to the most important measures at least, which
+could throw the matter before the electors to be re-decided. I can
+remember no important occasion upon which the machinery was not brought
+into use."
+
+"But, after all, the value of the decisions of the electorate you are
+describing," said I, continuing to humour him, "would depend upon the
+information which the electorate had received as well as upon their
+judgment."
+
+"As for their judgment," he said, a little shortly, "it is not for our
+time to criticize theirs. Human judgment is not infallible, but I can
+well remember how in every nation of Europe it was the fixed conviction
+of the citizens that judgment was their chief characteristic, and
+especially judgment in national affairs. I cannot believe that so
+universal an attitude of the mind could have arisen had it not been
+justified. But as for information, they had the Press ... a free Press!"
+Here he fell into a reverie, so powerfully did his supposed memories
+affect him.
+
+I was willing to lead him on, because this kind of illness is best met
+by sympathy, and also because I was not uninterested to discover how his
+own trade had affected him.
+
+"You would hardly understand it," he said sadly; "what you hear from me
+is nothing but words.... I wish I could have shown you one of those
+great houses with information pouring in as rapid, as light, and as
+clear, from every hidden corner of the world, digested by master brains
+into the most lucid and terse presentment of it possible, and then
+whirled out on great wheels to be distributed by the thousand and the
+hundred thousand, to the hungry intelligence of Europe. There was
+nothing escaped it--nothing. In every capital were crowds of men
+dispatched from the other capitals of our civilization, moving with ease
+in the wealthiest houses, and exquisitely in touch with the most
+delicate phases of national life everywhere. And these men were such
+experts in selection that a picture of Europe as a whole was presented
+every morning to each particular part of Europe; and nowhere was this
+more successfully accomplished than in my own beloved town of London."
+
+"It must have been useful," I said, "not only for the political purposes
+you describe, but also for investors. Indeed, I should imagine that the
+two things ran together."
+
+"You are right," he said with interest, "the wide knowledge which even
+the poorest of the people possessed upon foreign affairs, through the
+action of the Press, was, further, of the utmost and most beneficent
+effect in teaching even the smallest proprietor what he need do with his
+capital. A discovery of metallic ore--especially of gold--a new
+invention, anything which might require development, was at once
+presented in its most exact aspect to the reader."
+
+"It was probably upon that account," said I, "that property was so
+equally distributed, and that so general a prosperity reigned as you
+have often described to me."
+
+"You are right," said he; "it was mainly this accurate and universal
+daily information which produced such excellent results."
+
+"But it occurs to me," said I, by way of stimulating his conversation
+with an objection, "that if so passionate and tenacious a habit of
+telling the exact truth upon innumerable things was present in this old
+institution of which you speak, it cannot but have bred a certain amount
+of dissension, and it must sometimes even have done definite harm to
+individuals whose private actions were thus exposed."
+
+"You are right," said he; "the danger of such misfortunes was always
+present, and with the greatest desire in the world to support only what
+was worthy the writers of the journals of which I speak would
+occasionally blunder against private interests; but there was a remedy."
+
+"What was that?" I asked.
+
+"Why, the law provided that in this matter twelve men called a jury,
+instructed by a judge, after the matter had been fully explained to them
+by two other men whose business it was to examine the truth boldly for
+the sake of justice--I say the law provided that the twelve men after
+this process should decide whether the person injured should receive
+money from the newspaper or no, and if so, in what amount. And, lest
+there should still be any manner of doubt, the judge was permitted to
+set aside their verdict if he thought it unjust. To secure his absolute
+impartiality as between rich and poor he was paid somewhat over L100 a
+week, a large salary in those days, and he was further granted the right
+of imprisoning people at will or of taking away their property if he
+believed them to obstruct his judgment. Nor were these the only
+safeguards. For in the case of very rich men, to whom justice might not
+be done on account of the natural envy of their poorer fellow-citizens,
+it was arranged that the jury should consist only of rich men. In this
+way it was absolutely certain that a complete impartiality would reign.
+We shall never see those days again," he concluded.
+
+"But do you not think," I said before I left him, "that the social
+perfection of the kind you have described must rather have been due to
+some spirit of the time than to particular institutions? For after all
+the zealous love of justice and the sense of duty which you describe are
+not social elements to be produced by laws."
+
+"Possibly," he said, wearily, "possibly, but we shall never see it
+again!"
+
+And I left him looking into the fire with infinite sadness and
+reflecting upon his lost youth and the year 1909: a pathetic figure, and
+one whose upkeep during the period of his deficiency was a very serious
+drain upon the resources of his family.
+
+
+
+
+The Inheritance of Humour
+
+
+There are some truths which seem to get old almost as soon as they are
+born, and that simply because they are so astonishingly true that people
+soon get to feel as though they have known them all their lives; and
+such a truth is that which first one writer and then another in the last
+five years has been insisting upon, until it is already a perfect
+commonplace that nations do not know their own qualities. The inmost,
+the characteristic thing, that which differentiates one community from
+another, as tastes or colours differentiate things--_that_ a
+nation hardly ever knows until it is pointed out to it by some foreigner
+or by some observer from within. It cannot know it, because one cannot
+tell the very atmosphere in which one lives. It is universal and
+therefore unnoticed. Now, if this is true of any nation, it is
+particularly true of England. And English people need to be told
+morning, noon, and night, not indeed the particular national
+characteristic which they have, since for this no particular name could
+be found, but rather what its evidences are; as, for instance,
+spontaneity in design, a passion for the mystical in poetry and the
+arts; a power in water-colour, in which they are perhaps quite alone,
+and certainly the first in Europe; and, above all, the chief, the master
+thing of all, humour.
+
+There is not nor ever will be anything like English humour. It is a
+thing quite apart, and by it for now more than two hundred years you may
+know England. It does not puzzle the foreigner (as the more blatant kind
+of intellectual man is too fond of boasting that it does); he simply
+admires it as a rule and wonders at it always; sometimes he actually
+dislikes it, but by it he knows that the thing he is reading is English
+and has the savour and taste of England.
+
+It is impossible to define it, because it is so full of stuff and so
+organic a quality; but in our own time it was principally the pencil of
+Charles Keene that has summed it up and presented it in a moment and at
+once to the eye--the pencil of Charles Keene and that profound instinct
+whereby he chose the legends for his drawing, whether he found them by
+his own sympathy with the people or whether they were suggested to him
+by friends.
+
+It is the verdict of the men most competent perhaps to judge upon these
+things that he had the greatest graphic power of his time, and that no
+one had had that power to such an extent since Hogarth. Upon these
+things the men of the trade must dispute; the layman cannot doubt that
+he had here a genius and a genius comprehensively national. It is the
+essence of a good draughtsman that what he wants to draw, that he draws.
+The line that he desires to see upon the paper appears there as his
+fingers move. It is a quality extremely rare in its perfection. And
+Charles Keene had it in perfection, as in totally different manner had
+the offensive and diseased talent of Beardsley.
+
+But more important than the power to do is the quality of the thing
+done, and the work of Charles Keene, multitudinous, varied, always
+great, is an inheritance for English people comparable to the
+inheritance they have in Dickens. It has also what Dickens had, a power
+of representing, as it were, the essential English. Just that which
+makes people say (with some truth) that Dickens never drew a gentleman
+would make them say with equal truth that what was interesting in the
+gentlemen of Charles Keene (and he perpetually drew them) was not the
+externals upon which gentlemen so pride themselves, but the soul. Thus I
+have in mind one picture wherein Keene drew a gentleman; true, he was a
+gentleman who had just swallowed a bad oyster, and therefore he was a
+man as well. I recall another of an old gentleman complaining of the
+caterpillar on his chop: he is a gentleman of the professional rather
+than the territorial classes, and, great heavens! what a power of line!
+All you see beneath the round of his hat is the end of his nose, the
+curve of his mouth, and two bushy ends of whiskers. Yet one can tell all
+about that man; one could write a book on him. One knows his economics,
+his religion, his accent, and what he thought of the Third Napoleon and
+what of Garibaldi. I have called draughtsmanship of this quality an
+inheritance--I might have called it perhaps with better propriety a
+monument. It is possible that England in the near future will look back
+with great envy, as she will certainly look back with great pride, to
+the generation preceding our own: they were a solid and a happy
+community of men. How much they owed to fortune, how much to themselves,
+it is not the place of such random stuff as mine to consider.
+
+They were nearly impregnable in their island; they were not bellicose.
+They made and sold for all the world. Whether the very different future
+which we are now entering is to be laid to their door or to our own,
+that generation will still remain one of the principal things in English
+history, like the Elizabethan generation, or the group of men who
+organized the Seven Years' War, or the group of men who fought in the
+Peninsula. And of that generation the note of health and of stability is
+represented by its humour. I am not sure that of all things educational
+to young men with no personal memory of that time, and especially to
+young men with no family tradition of it to reflect it in their books
+and their furniture; and--this yet more particularly--to young men born
+out of England yet claiming communion with England, the Anglo-Indians
+and the Colonials--I am not sure, I say, that the thing most educational
+to these would not be some hundred of Charles Keene's drawings, for
+therein they would find what it was that gave them the power and the
+wealth that can hardly be defended unless its traditions are continued.
+Note how Victorian England dealt with the humour of a Volunteer review;
+note how it dealt with the humour of excessive wealth; and note how it
+dealt with the humour of schools and of Dons. One might almost define it
+by negations. There is in all of it no--but here I lack a word.... When
+things ring false it is because they have got by exaggeration or by some
+other form of falsity _beside_ themselves. Appreciation of rank or
+even of worth becomes snobbishness; appreciation of another's judgment
+false taste; and patriotism, the most beautiful, the noblest, the most
+necessary of the great emotions, corrupts into something very vile
+indeed.
+
+Well, the Victorians, and notably this man of whose power of the pencil
+I am speaking, did lack that false savour, that savour of just missing
+what one wishes to say or to feel, which haunts us to-day; and I should
+imagine that whether it were cause or effect the salt present in the
+preservation of the moral health of that society was humour. Let us
+enjoy it like an heirloom. It is more national than the language; at
+least it is more national than what the language has become under
+foreign pressure; it is infinitely more national than our problems and
+our tragedies. It is so national that--who knows?--it may crop up again
+of itself one of these days; and may that not be long.
+
+
+
+
+The Old Gentleman's Opinions
+
+
+I had occasion about a fortnight ago to meet a man more nearly ninety
+than eighty years of age, who had had special opportunity for
+discovering the changes of Europe during his long life. He was of the
+English wealthier classes by lineage, but his mother had been of the
+French nobility and a Huguenot. His father had been prominent in the
+diplomacy of a couple of generations ago. He had travelled widely, read
+perhaps less widely, but had known and appreciated an astonishing number
+of his contemporaries.
+
+I was interested (without any power of my own to judge whether his
+decisions were right or wrong) to discover what most struck him in the
+changes produced by that great stretch of years, all of which he had
+personally observed: he was born just after Waterloo, and he could
+remember the Reform Bill.
+
+He surprised me by telling me, in the first place, that the material
+changes and discoveries, enormous though they were in extent, were not,
+in his view, the most striking. He was ready to leave it open whether
+these material changes were the causes of moral changes more remarkable,
+or merely effects concomitant with these. When I asked him what had
+struck him most of the great material developments, he told me the
+phonograph and the aeroplane among inventions; Mendel's observations in
+the sphere of experimental knowledge; and, in the sphere of pure theory,
+the breakdown of many things that had been dogmas of physical science in
+his early manhood.
+
+Since I did not quite understand what he meant by this last, he gave me,
+after some hesitation, a few examples: That the interior of the earth
+was molten; that a certain limited number of elements--not all yet
+isolated, but certainly few in their total--were at the base of all
+material forms, and were immutable; that the ultimate unit of each of
+these was a certain indivisible, eternal thing called the Atom; and so
+forth.
+
+He assured me that views of this sort, extending over a hundred or a
+thousand other points, were so universally accepted in his time that to
+dispute them was to be ranked with the unlettered or the fantastic. I
+asked him if it were so in economics. He said: Yes, in England, where
+there was a similar dogma of Free Trade: not abroad.
+
+When I asked him why Mendel's published experiments and the theory based
+upon them had so much impressed him, he said because it was almost the
+first attempt to apply to the speculative dogmas of biology some
+standard demonstrably true; and here he wandered off to explain to me
+why the commonly accepted views upon biology, which had so changed
+thought in the latter part of his life, were associated with the name of
+Darwin. Darwin, he assured me, had brought forward no new discovery, but
+only a new hypothesis, and that only a small and particular hypothesis,
+whereby to explain the general theory of transformism. This theory, he
+told me--the unbroken descent of living organisms and their physical
+connection with one another and with common parents--had been a
+favourite idea from the beginning of history with many great thinkers,
+from Lucretius to Buffon and from Augustus of Hippo to Lamarck.
+Darwin's, the old gentleman assured me, which he had defended with
+infinite toil, was that the method in which this continuity of descent
+proceeded was by an infinitely slow process of very small changes
+differentiating each minute step from the one before and the one after
+it, and these small changes Darwin's hypothesis referred to a natural
+selection. Nothing else in Darwin's work, he assured me, was novel, and
+yet it was the one thing which subsequent research had rendered more and
+more doubtful. Darwin (he said) said nothing new that was also true.
+
+At this point I was moved to contradict the old gentleman, and to say
+that one unquestioned contribution to science of Darwin, as novel as it
+was secure, was his patient discovery of the work of earthworms, and of
+its vast effect. The old gentleman was willing to admit that I was
+right, but he said he was only speaking of Darwin in connection with
+transformism and the whimsical way in which his private name (and his
+errors) had become identified with evolution in general.
+
+I asked him, since he had such a knowledge of men from observation, why
+this was so.
+
+"It seems at first sight," he said, "as ridiculous as though we should
+associate the theory of light with the name of Newton, who inclined to
+the exploded corpuscular hypothesis, or the general conception of
+orbital motion in the universe to the great Bacon, who, in point of
+fact, rudely repudiated the Copernican theory in particular."
+
+"Did he, indeed?" said I, interested.
+
+"I believe so," said the old gentleman; "at any rate you were asking me
+why Darwin, with his single contribution to the theory of transformism,
+and that a doubtful one--or, to be accurate, an exploded one--should be
+associated in the popular mind with the invention of so ancient a theory
+as that of evolution. The reason is, I think, no more than that he came
+at a particular moment when any man doing great quantities of detailed
+work in this field was bound to stand out exaggeratedly. The society in
+which he appeared had, until just before his day, accepted a narrow
+cosmogony, quite unknown to its ancestors. Darwin's book certainly
+exploded that, and the mind of his time--ignorant as it was of the
+past--was ready to accept the shattering of its father's idols as a new
+revelation."
+
+"But you were saying," said I, when he had thus dealt harshly with a
+great name, "that not the material but the moral changes of your time
+seemed to you the greatest. Which did you mean?"
+
+"Why, in the first place," said the old man thoughtfully and with some
+hesitation, "the curiously rapid decline of intelligence, or if you will
+have it differently, the clouding of thought that has marked the last
+thirty years. Men in my youth knew what they held and what they did not
+hold. They knew why they held it or why they did not hold it; but the
+attempt to enjoy the advantages of two contradictory systems at the same
+time, and, what is worse, the consulting of a man as an authority upon
+subjects he had never professed to know, are intellectual phenomena
+quite peculiar to the later years of my life."
+
+I said we of the younger generation had all noticed it, as, for
+instance, when an honest but imperfectly intelligent chemist was
+listened to in his exposition of the nature of the soul, or a well-paid
+religious official was content to expound the consolations of
+Christianity while denying that Christianity was true.
+
+"But," I continued, "we are usually told that this unfortunate decline
+in the express powers of the brain is due to the wide and imperfect
+education of the populace at the present moment."
+
+"That is not the case," answered the old man sharply, when I had made
+myself clear by repeating my remarks in a louder tone, for he was a
+little deaf.
+
+"That is not the case. The follies of which I speak are not particularly
+to be discovered among the poorer classes who have passed through the
+elementary schools. _These_" (it was to the schools that he was
+alluding with a comprehensive pessimism) "may account for the gross
+decline apparent in the public manners of our people, but not for faults
+which are peculiar to the upper and middle classes. It is not in the
+populace, but in those wealthier ranks that you will find the sort of
+intellectual decay of which I spoke."
+
+I asked him whether he thought the tricks it was now considered cultured
+to play with mathematics came within the category of this intellectual
+decay. The old gentleman answered me a little abruptly that he could not
+judge what I was talking about.
+
+"Why," said I, "do you believe that parallel straight lines
+_converge_ or _diverge_?"
+
+"Neither," said he, a little bewildered. "If they are parallel they
+cannot by definition either diverge or converge."
+
+"You are, then," said I, "an old-fashioned adherent of the theory of the
+parabolic universe?" At which sensible reply of mine the old man
+muttered rather ill-temperedly, and begged me to speak of something
+else.
+
+I asked him whether the knowledge of languages had not declined in his
+time. He said, somewhat emphatically, yes, and especially the knowledge
+of French, assuring me that in his early years many a Fellow of a
+College at Oxford or at Cambridge was capable of speaking that tongue in
+such a fashion as to make himself understood. On the other hand, he
+admitted that German and Spanish were more widely known than they had
+been, and Arabic certainly far more widely diffused among those
+officials of the Empire who took their work seriously.
+
+When I asked him whether politics were more corrupt as time proceeded,
+he said No, but more cynical; and as to morals he would not judge, for
+he was certain that as one vice was corrected another appeared in its
+place.
+
+What he told me he most deplored in the social system of his country was
+the power of the police and of the statistician by whom the policeman
+was guided. This he ascribed to the growth of great towns, to civic
+cowardice, and to a new taboo laid upon uniformed and labelled public
+authorities, who are now regarded as sacred, and also inordinately
+feared.
+
+"In my youth," he said, "there was a joke that every man in Paris was
+known to the police. Today that is universally true, and no joke with
+regard to every man in London. Our movements are marked, our earnings,
+our expenses, and our most private affairs known to the innumerable
+officials of the Treasury, our records of every sort, however intimate,
+are exactly and correctly maintained. The obtaining of work and a
+livelihood is dependent upon strong organizations. There is hardly an
+ailment or a domestic habit, from drinking wine to eating turnips, which
+some crank who has obtained the ear of a politician does not control or
+threaten in the immediate future to control."
+
+"As for doctors!" he began, his voice cracking with indignation, "their
+abominable...." but here the old gentleman fell into so violent a fit of
+coughing that he nearly turned black in the face, and when I
+respectfully slapped him on the back, in the hopes of granting him
+relief, he made matters worse by shaking himself at me with an energy
+worthy of 1842. His nurse rushed in, clapped him upon his pillows, and
+was prepared to vent her wrath upon me for having caused this paroxysm,
+when the old man's exhaustion and laboured breathing captured all her
+attention, and I had the opportunity to withdraw.
+
+
+
+
+On Historical Evidence
+
+
+The last book to be published upon the last Dauphin of France set me
+thinking upon what seems to me the chief practical science in which
+modern men should secure themselves. I mean the science of history--and
+in this science almost all lies in the appreciation of evidence, for one
+of the chief particular problems presented to the student of history at
+the present moment is whether the Dauphin did or did not survive his
+imprisonment in the Temple.
+
+Let me first say why, to so many of us, the science of history and the
+appreciation of the evidence upon which it depends is of the first
+moment. It is because, short of vision or revelation, history is our
+only extension of human experience. It is true that a philosophy common
+to all citizens is necessary for a State if it is to, live--but short
+of that necessity the next most necessary factor is a knowledge of the
+stuff of mankind: of how men act under certain conditions and impulses.
+This knowledge may be acquired, and is in some measure, during the
+experience of one wise lifetime, but it is indefinitely extended by the
+accumulation of experience which history affords.
+
+And what history so gives us is always of immediate and practical
+moment.
+
+For instance, men sometimes speak with indifference of the rival
+theories as to the origin of European land tenure; they talk as though
+it were a mere academic debate whether the conception of private
+property in land arose comparatively late among Europeans or was native
+and original in our race. But you have only to watch a big popular
+discussion on that very great and at the present moment very living
+issue, the moral right to the private ownership in land, to see how
+heavily the historic argument weighs with every type of citizen. The
+instinct that gives that argument weight is a sound one, and not less
+sound in those who have least studied the matter than in those who have
+most studied it; for if our race from its immemorial origins has desired
+to own land as a private thing side by side with communal tenures, then
+it is pretty certain that we shall not modify that intention, however
+much we change our laws. If, on the other hand, it could be shown that
+before the advent of a complex civilization Europeans had no conception
+of private property in land, but treated land as a thing necessarily and
+always communal, then you could ascribe modern Socialist theories with
+regard to the land to that general movement of harking back to the
+origins which Europe has been assisting at through over a hundred years
+of revolution and of change.
+
+It sounds cynical, but it is perfectly true, that much the largest
+factor in the historical conception of men is assertion. It is literally
+true that when men (with the exception of a very small proportion of
+scholars who are also intelligent) consider the past, the picture on which
+they dwell is a picture conveyed to them wholly by authority and by
+unquestioned authority. There was never a time when the original sources
+of history were more easily to be consulted by the plain man; but whether
+because of their very number, or because the habit is not yet formed, or
+because there are traditions of imaginary difficulty surrounding such
+reading, original sources were perhaps never less familiar to fairly
+educated opinion than they are today; and therefore no type of book gives
+more pleasure when one comes across it than those little cheap books, now
+becoming fairly numerous, in which the original sources, and the
+original sources alone, are put before the reader. Mr. Rait has already
+done such work in connection with Mary Queen of Scots, and Mr. Archer
+did it admirably in connection with the Third Crusade.
+
+But apart from the importance of consulting original sources--which is
+like hearing the very witnesses themselves in court--there is a factor
+in historical judgment which by some unhappy accident is peculiarly
+lacking in the professional historian. It is a factor to which no
+particular name can be attached, though it may be called a department of
+common sense. But it is a mental power or attitude easily recognizable
+in those who possess it, and perhaps atrophied by the very atmosphere of
+the study. It goes with the open air with a general knowledge of men and
+with that rapid recognition of the way in which things "fit in" which is
+necessarily developed by active life.
+
+For instance, when you know the pace at which Harold marched down from
+the north to Hastings you recognize, if you use that factor of historic
+judgment of which I spake, that the affair was not barbaric. There must
+have been fairly good roads, and there must have been a high
+organization of transport. You have only to consider for a moment what a
+column looks like, even if it be only a brigade, to see the truth of
+that. Again, this type of judgment forbids anyone who uses it to ascribe
+great popular movements (great massacres, great turmoils, and so forth)
+to craft. It is a very common thing, especially in modern history, to
+lay such things to the power of one or two wealthy or one or two bloody
+leaders, but you have only to think for a few moments of what a mob is
+to see the falsity of that. Craft can harness this sort of explosive
+force, it can control it, or persuade it, or canalize it to certain
+issues, but it cannot create it.
+
+Again, this sort of sense easily recognizes in historic types the
+parallels of modern experience. It avoids the error of thinking history
+a mistake and making of the men and women who appear there something
+remote from humanity, extreme, and either stilted or grandiose.
+
+In aid of this last feature in historical judgment there is nothing of
+such permanent value as a portrait. Obtain your conception (as, indeed,
+most boys do) of the English early sixteenth century from a text, then
+go and live with the Holbeins for a week and see what an enormously
+greater thing you will possess at the end of it. It is indeed one of the
+misfortunes of European history that from the fifth century to at least
+the eleventh we are, so far as Western European history is concerned,
+deprived of portraits. And by an interesting parallel the writers of the
+dark time seemed to have had neither the desire nor the gift of vivid
+description. Consider the dreariness of the hagiographers, every one of
+them boasting the noble rank and the conventional status of his hero,
+and you may say not one giving the least conception of the man's
+personality. You have the great Gallo-Roman noble family of Ferreolus
+running down the centuries from the Decline of the Empire to the climax
+of Charlemagne. Many of those names stand for some most powerful
+individuality, yet all we have is a formula, a lineage, with symbols and
+names in the place of living beings, and even that established only by
+careful work, picking out and sifting relationships from various lives.
+The men of that time did not even think to tell us that there was such a
+thing as a family tradition, nor did it seem important to them to
+establish its Roman origin and its long succession in power.
+
+Next it must be protested that the smallness and particularity of the
+questions upon which historical discussion rages are no proof either of
+its general purposelessness nor of _their_ insignificance. All
+advance of knowledge proceeds in this fashion. Physical science affords
+innumerable examples of the way in which progress has depended upon a
+curiosity directed towards apparently insignificant things, and there is
+something in the mind which compels it to select a narrow field for the
+exercise of its acutest powers. Moreover, special points, discussion
+upon which must evidently be lengthy and may be indefinite, are
+peculiarly attractive to just that kind of man who by a love of
+prolonged research enlarges the bounds of knowledge and at the same time
+strengthens and improves for his fellows by continual exercise all the
+instruments of their common trade. Take, for instance, this case of the
+little Dauphin, Louis XVII. It really does not matter to day whether the
+boy got away or whether he died in prison. It does not prolong the line
+of the Capetians--the heir to that is present in the Duke of Orleans. It
+does not even affect our view of any other considerable part of
+history--save possibly the policy of Louis XVIII--and it is of no direct
+interest to our pockets or to our affections. Yet the masses of work
+which have accumulated round that one doubt have solved twenty other
+doubts. They have illuminated all the close of the Terror; they are
+beginning to make us understand that most difficult piece of political
+psychology, the reaction of Thermidor, and with it how Europeans lose
+their balance and regain it in the course of their quasi-religious wars;
+for all our wars have something in them of religion.
+
+Three elements appear to enter into the judgment of history. First,
+there is the testimony of human witnesses; next, there are the non-human
+boundaries wherein the action took place, boundaries which, by all our
+experience, impose fixed limits to action; thirdly, there is that
+indefinable thing, that mystic power, which all nations deriving from
+the theology of the Western Church have agreed to call, with the
+schoolman, _common sense_; a general appreciation which transcends
+particular appreciations and which can integrate the differentials of
+evidence. Of this last it is quite impossible to afford a test or to
+construct a measure; its presence in an argument is none the less as
+readily felt as fresh air in a room; without it nothing is convincing
+however laboured, with it, even though it rely upon slight evidence, one
+has the feeling of walking on a firm road. But it must be "common
+sense"--it must be of the sort, that is, which is common to man various
+and general, and it is in this perhaps that history suffers most from
+the charlatanism and ritual common to all great matters.
+
+Men will have pomp and mystery surrounding important things, and
+therefore the historians must, consciously or unconsciously, tend to
+strut, to quote solemn authorities in support, and to make out the
+vulgar unworthy of their confidence. Hence, by the way, the plague of
+footnotes.
+
+These had their origin in two sources: the desire to show that one was
+honest and to prove it by a reference; the desire to elucidate some
+point which it was not easy to elucidate in the text itself without
+making the sentence too elaborate and clumsy. Either use may be seen at
+its best in Gibbon. With the last generation they have served mainly,
+and sometimes merely, for ritual adornment and terror, not to make
+clearer or more honest, but to deceive. Thus Taine in his monstrously
+false history of the Revolution revels in footnotes; you have but to
+examine a batch of them with care to turn them completely against his
+own conclusions--they are only put there as a sort of spiked paling to
+warn off trespassers. Or, again, M. Thibaut, who writes under the name
+of "Anatole France," gives footnotes by the score in his romance of Joan
+of Arc, apparently not even caring to examine whether they so much as
+refer to his text, let alone support it. They seem to have been done by
+contract.
+
+Another ailment in this department is the negative one, whereby an
+historian will leave out some aspect which to him, cramped in a study,
+seems unimportant, but which any plain man moving in the world would
+have told him to be the essential aspect of the whole matter. For
+instance, when Napoleon left Madrid on his forced march to intercept Sir
+John Moore before that general should have reached Benevente, he thought
+Moore was at Valladolid, when as a fact he was at Sahagun. In Mr. Oman's
+history of the Peninsular War the error is put thus: "Napoleon had not
+the comparatively easy task of cutting the road between Valladolid and
+Astorga, but the much harder one of intercepting that between Sahagun
+and Astorga."
+
+Why is this egregious nonsense? The facts are right and so are the dates
+and the names, yet it makes one blush for Oxford history. Why? Because
+the all-important element of _distance_ is omitted. The very first
+question a plain man would ask about the case would be, "What were the
+distances involved?" The academic historian doesn't know, or, at least,
+doesn't say; yet without an appreciation of the distances the statement
+has no value. As a fact the distances were such that in the first case
+(supposing Moore had been at Valladolid) Napoleon would have had to
+cover nearly three miles to Moore's one to intercept him--an almost
+superhuman task. In the second case (Moore being as a fact at Sahagun)
+he would have had to go over _four miles_ to his opponent's one--an
+absolutely impossible feat.
+
+To march _three_ miles to the enemy's _one_ is what Mr. Oman
+calls "a comparatively easy task"; to march four to his one is what Mr.
+Oman calls a "much harder" task; and to write like that is what an
+informed critic calls bad history.
+
+The other two factors in an historical judgment can be more easily
+measured.
+
+The non-human elements which, as I have said, are irremovable (save to
+miracle), are topography, climate, season, local physical conditions,
+and so forth. They have two valuable characters in aid of history; the
+first is that they correct the errors of human memory and support the
+accuracy of details; the second is that they enable us to complete a
+picture. We can by their aid "see" the physical framework in which an
+action took place, and such a landscape helps the judgment of things
+past as it does of things contemporary. Thus the map, the date, the
+soil, the contours of Crecy field make the traditional spot at which the
+King of Bohemia fell doubtful; the same factors make it certain that
+Drouet did not plunge haphazard through Argonne on the night of June 21,
+1791, but that he must have gone by one path--which can be determined.
+
+Or, again, take that prime question, why the Prussians did not charge at
+Valmy. On their failure to do so all the success of the Revolution
+turned. A man may read Dumouriez, Kellermann, Pully, Botidoux,
+Massenback, Goethe--there are fifty eye-witnesses at least whose
+evidence we can collect, and I defy anyone to decide. (Brunswick himself
+never knew.) But go to that roll of land between Valmy and the high
+road; go after three days' rain as the allies did, and you will
+immediately learn. That field between the heights of "The Moon" and the
+site of old Valmy mill, which is as hard as a brick in summer (when the
+experts visit it), is a marsh of the worst under an autumn drizzle; no
+one could have charged.
+
+As for human testimony, three things appear: first, that the witness is
+not, as in a law court, circumscribed. His relation may vary infinitely
+in degree of proximity of time or space to the action, from that of an
+eye-witness writing within the hour to that of a partisan writing at
+tenth hand a lifetime after. That question of proximity comes first,
+from the known action of the human mind whereby it transforms colours
+and changes remembered things. Next there is the character of the
+witness _for the purposes of his testimony_. Historians write, too
+often, as though virtue--or wealth (with which they often confound
+it)--were the test. It is not, short of a known motive for lying; a
+murderer or a thief casually witnessing to a thing with which he is
+familiar is worth more than the best man witnessing in a matter which he
+understands ill. It was this error which ruined Croker's essay on
+Charlotte Robespierre's Memoirs. Croker thought, perhaps wisely, that
+all radicals were scoundrels; he could not accept her editor's evidence,
+and (by the way) the view of this amateur collector without a tincture
+of historical scholarship actually imposed itself on Europe for nearly
+seventy years!
+
+And the third character in the witness is support: the support upon
+converging lines of other human testimony, most of it indifferent, some
+(this is essential) casual and by the way--deprived therefore of motive.
+
+When I shall find these canons satisfied to oppose the strong
+probability and tradition of the Dauphin's death in prison I shall doubt
+that death, but not before.
+
+
+
+
+The Absence of the Past
+
+
+It is perhaps not possible to put into human language that emotion
+which rises when a man stands upon some plot of European soil and can
+say with certitude to himself: "Such and such great, or wonderful, or
+beautiful things happened here."
+
+Touch that emotion ever so lightly and it tumbles into the commonplace,
+and the deadest of commonplace. Neglect it ever so little and the
+Present (which is never really there, for even as you walk across
+Trafalgar Square it is yesterday and tomorrow that are in your mind),
+the Present, I say, or rather the immediate flow of things, occupies you
+altogether. But there is a mood, and it is a mood common in men who have
+read and who have travelled, in which one is overwhelmed by the sanctity
+of a place on which men have done this or that a long, long time ago.
+
+Here it is that the gentle supports which have been framed for human
+life by that power which launched it come in and help a man. Time does
+not remain, but space does, and though we cannot seize the Past
+physically we can stand physically upon the site, and we can have (if I
+may so express myself) a physical communion with the Past by occupying
+that very spot which the past greatness of man or of event has occupied.
+
+It was but the other day that, with an American friend at my side, I
+stood looking at the little brass plate which says that here Charles
+Stuart faced (he not only faced, but he refused) the authority of his
+judges. I know not by what delicate mechanism of the soul that record
+may seem at one moment a sort of tourist thing, to be neglected or
+despised, and at another moment a portent. But I will confess that all
+of a sudden, pointing out this very well-known record upon the brass let
+into the stone in Westminster Hall, I suddenly felt the presence of the
+thing. Here all that business was done: they were alive; they were in
+the Present as we are. Here sat that tender-faced, courageous man, with
+his pointed beard and his luminous eyes; here he was a living man
+holding his walking-stick with the great jewel in the handle of it; here
+was spoken in the very tones of his voice (and how a human voice
+perishes!--how we forget the accents of the most loved and the most
+familiar voices within a few days of their disappearance!); here the
+small gestures, and all the things that make up a personality, marked
+out Charles Stuart. When the soul is seized with such sudden and
+positive conviction of the substantial past it is overwhelmed; and
+Europe is full of such ghosts.
+
+As you take the road to Paradise, about halfway there you come to an
+inn, which even as inns go is admirable. You go into the garden of it,
+and see the great trees and the wall of Box Hill shrouding you all
+around. It is beautiful enough (in all conscience) to arrest one without
+the need of history or any admixture of the pride of race; but as you
+sit there on a seat in that garden you are sitting where Nelson sat when
+he said goodbye to his Emma, and if you will move a yard or two you will
+be sitting where Keats sat biting his pen and thinking out some new line
+of his poem.
+
+What has happened? These two men with their keen, feminine faces, these
+two great heroes of a great time in the great story of a great people of
+this world, are not there. They are nowhere. But the site remains.
+
+Philosophers can put in formulae the crowd of suggestions that rush into
+the mind when one's soul contemplates the perpetual march and passage of
+mortality. But they can do no more than give us formularies: they cannot
+give us replies. What are we? What is all this business? Why does the
+mere space remain and all the rest dissolve?
+
+There is a lonely place in the woods of Chilham, in the County of Kent,
+above the River Stour, where a man comes upon an irregular earthwork
+still plainly marked upon the brow of the bluff. Nobody comes near this
+place. A vague country lane, or rather track; goes past the wet soil of
+it, plunges into the valley beyond, and after serving a windmill joins
+the high road to Canterbury. Well, that vague track is the ancient
+British road, as old as anything in this Island, that took men from
+Winchester to the Straits of Dover. That earthwork is the earthwork (I
+could prove it, but this is not the place) where the British stood
+against the charge of the Tenth Legion, and first heard, sounding on
+their bronze, the arms of Caesar. Here the river was forded; here the
+little men of the South went up in formation; here the Barbarian broke
+and took his way, as the opposing General has recorded, through devious
+woodland paths, scattering in the pursuit; here began the great history
+of England.
+
+Is it not an enormous business merely to stand in such a place? I think
+so.
+
+I know a field to the left of the Chalons Road, some few miles before
+you get to Ste. Menehould. There used to be an inn by the roadside
+called "The Sign of the Moon." It has disappeared. There used to be a
+ramshackle windmill beyond the field, a mile or so from the road, on an
+upland swell of land, but that also has gone, and had been gone for some
+time before I knew the field of which I write. It is a bare fold of land
+with one or two little scrubby spinneys alongside the plough. And for
+the rest, just the brown earth and the sky. There are days on which you
+will see a man at work somewhere within that mile, others on which it is
+completely deserted. Here it is that the French Revolution was
+preserved. Here was the Prussian charge. On the deserted, ugly lump of
+empty earth beyond you were the three batteries that checked the
+invaders. It was all alive and crowded for one intense moment with the
+fate of Christendom. Here, on the place in which you are standing and
+gazing, young Goethe stood and gazed. That meaningless stretch of coarse
+grass supported Brunswick and the King of Prussia, and the brothers of
+the King of France, as they stood windswept in the rain, watching the
+failure of the charge. It is the field of Valmy. Turn on that height and
+look back westward and you see the plains rolling out infinitely; they
+are the plains upon which Attila was crushed; but there is no one there.
+
+All men have remarked that night and silence are august, and I think
+that if this quality in night and silence be closely examined it will be
+found to consist, in part at least, in this: that either of them
+symbolizes Absence. By a paradox which I will not attempt to explain,
+but which all have felt, it is in silence and in darkness that the Past
+most vividly returns, and that this absence of what once was possesses,
+nay, obtrudes itself upon the mind: it becomes almost a sensible thing.
+There is much to be said for those who pretend, imagine, or perhaps have
+experienced under such conditions the return of the dead. The mood of
+darkness and of silence is a mood crammed with something that does not
+remain, as space remains, that is limited by time, and is a creature of
+time, and yet something that has an immortal right to remain.
+
+Now, I suppose that in that sentence where I say things mortal have
+immortal rights to permanence, the core of the whole business is touched
+upon. And I suppose that the great men who could really think and did
+not merely fire off fireworks to dazzle their contemporaries--I suppose
+that Descartes, for instance, if he were here sitting at my table--could
+help me to solve that contradiction; but I sit and think and cannot
+solve it.
+
+"What," says the man upon his own land, inherited perhaps and certainly
+intended for his posterity--"what! Can you separate me from this? Are
+not this and I bound up inextricably?" The answer is "No; you are not so
+far as any observer of this world can discover. Space is in no way
+possessed by man, and he who may render a site immortal in one of our
+various ways, the captain who there conquered, the poet who there
+established his sequence of words, cannot himself put forward a claim to
+permanence within it at all."
+
+There was a woman of charming vivacity, whose eyes were ever ready for
+laughter, and whose tone of address of itself provoked the noblest of
+replies. Many loved her; all admired. She passed (I will suppose) by
+this street or by that; she sat at table in such and such a house;
+Gainsborough painted her; and all that time ago there were men who had
+the luck to meet her and to answer her laughter with their own. And the
+house where she moved is there and the street in which she walked, and
+the very furniture she used and touched with her hands you may touch
+with your hands. You shall come into the rooms that she inhabited, and
+there you shall see her portrait, all light and movement and grace and
+beatitude.
+
+She is gone altogether, the voice will never return, the gestures will
+never be seen again. She was under a law; she changed, she suffered, she
+grew old, she died; and there was her place left empty. The not living
+things remain; but what counted, what gave rise to them, what made them
+all that they are, has pitifully disappeared, and the greater, the
+infinitely greater, thing was subject to a doom perpetually of change
+and at last of vanishing. The dead surroundings are not subject to such
+a doom. Why?
+
+All those boys who held the line of the low ridge or rather swell of
+land from Hougoumont through the Belle Alliance have utterly gone. More
+than dust goes, more than wind goes; they will never be seen again.
+Their voices will never be heard--they are not. But what is the mere
+soil of the field without them? What meaning has it save for their
+presence?
+
+I could wish to understand these things.
+
+
+
+
+St. Patrick
+
+
+If there is one thing that people who are not Catholic have gone wrong
+upon more than another in the intellectual things of life, it is the
+conception of a Personality. They are muddled about it where their own
+little selves are concerned, they misappreciate it when they deal with
+the problems of society, and they have a very weak hold of it when they
+consider (if they do consider) the nature of Almighty God.
+
+Now, personality is everything. It was a Personal Will that made all
+things, visible and invisible. Our hope of immortality resides in this,
+that we are persons, and half our frailties proceed from a
+misapprehension of the awful responsibilities which personality involves
+or a cowardly ignorance of its powers of self-government.
+
+The hundred and one errors which this main error leads to include a bad
+error on the nature of history. Your modern non-Catholic or
+anti-Catholic historian is always misunderstanding, underestimating, or
+muddling the role played in the affairs of men by great and individual
+Personalities. That is why he is so lamentably weak upon the function of
+legend; that is why he makes a fetish of documentary evidence and has no
+grip upon the value of tradition. For traditions spring from some
+personality invariably, and the function of legend, whether it be a
+rigidly true legend or one tinged with make-believe, is to interpret
+Personality. Legends have vitality and continue, because in their origin
+they so exactly serve to explain or illustrate some personal character
+in a man which no cold statement could give.
+
+Now St. Patrick, the whole story and effect of him, is a matter of
+Personality. There was once--twenty or thirty years ago--a whole school
+of dunderheads who wondered whether St. Patrick ever existed, because
+the mass of legends surrounding his name troubled them. How on earth
+(one wonders) do such scholars consider their fellow-beings! Have they
+ever seen a crowd cheering a popular hero, or noticed the expression
+upon men's faces when they spoke of some friend of striking power
+recently dead? A great growth of legends around a man is the very best
+proof you could have not only of his existence but of the fact that he
+was an origin and a beginning, and that things sprang from his will or
+his vision. There were some who seemed to think it a kind of favour done
+to the indestructible body of Irish Catholicism when Mr. Bury wrote his
+learned Protestant book upon St. Patrick. It was a critical and very
+careful bit of work, and was deservedly praised; but the favour done us
+I could not see! It is all to the advantage of non-Catholic history that
+it should be sane, and that a great Protestant historian should make
+true history out of a great historical figure was a very good sign. It
+was a long step back towards common sense compared with the German
+absurdities which had left their victims doubting almost all the solid
+foundation of the European story; but as for us Catholics, we had no
+need to be told it. Not only was there a St. Patrick in history, but
+there is a St. Patrick on the shores of his eastern sea and throughout
+all Ireland to-day. It is a presence that stares you in the face, and
+physically almost haunts you. Let a man sail along the Leinster coast on
+such a day as renders the Wicklow Mountains clear up-weather behind him,
+and the Mourne Mountains perhaps in storm, lifted clearly above the sea
+down the wind. He is taking some such course as that on which St.
+Patrick sailed, and if he will land from time to time from his little
+boat at the end of each day's sailing, and hear Mass in the morning
+before he sails further northward, he will know in what way St. Patrick
+inhabits the soil which he rendered sacred.
+
+We know that among the marks of holiness is the working of miracles.
+Ireland is the greatest miracle any saint ever worked. It is a miracle
+and a nexus of miracles. Among other miracles it is a nation raised from
+the dead.
+
+The preservation of the Faith by the Irish is an historical miracle
+comparable to nothing else in Europe. There never was, and please God
+never can be, so prolonged and insanely violent a persecution of men by
+their fellow-men as was undertaken for centuries against the Faith in
+Ireland: and it has completely failed. I know of no example in history
+of failure following upon such effort. It had behind it in combination
+the two most powerful of the evil passions of men, terror and greed. And
+so amazing is it that they did not attain their end, that perpetually as
+one reads one finds the authors of the dreadful business now at one
+period, now at another, assuming with certitude that their success is
+achieved. Then, after centuries, it is almost suddenly perceived--and in
+our own time--that it has not been achieved and never will be.
+
+What a complexity of strange coincidences combined, coming out of
+nothing as it were, advancing like spirits summoned on to the stage, all
+to effect this end! Think of the American Colonies; with one little
+exception they were perhaps the most completely non-Catholic society of
+their time. Their successful rebellion against the mother country meant
+many things, and led to many prophecies. Who could have guessed that one
+of its chief results would be the furnishing of a free refuge for the
+Irish?
+
+The famine, all human opinion imagined, and all human judgment was bound
+to conclude, was a mortal wound, coming in as the ally of the vile
+persecution I have named. It has turned out the very contrary. From it
+there springs indirectly the dispersion, and that power which comes from
+unity in dispersion, of Irish Catholicism.
+
+Who, looking at the huge financial power that dominated Europe, and
+England in particular, during the youth of our own generation, could
+have dreamt that in any corner of Europe, least of all in the poorest
+and most ruined corner of Christendom, an effective resistance could be
+raised?
+
+Behind the enemies of Ireland, furnishing them with all their modern
+strength, was that base and secret master of modern things, the usurer.
+He it was far more than the gentry of the island who demanded toll, and,
+through the mortgages on the Irish estates, had determined to drain
+Ireland as he has drained and rendered desert so much else. Is it not a
+miracle that he has failed?
+
+Ireland is a nation risen from the dead; and to raise one man from the
+dead is surely miraculous enough to convince one of the power of a great
+spirit. This miracle, as I am prepared to believe, is the last and the
+greatest of St. Patrick's.
+
+When I was last in Ireland, I bought in the town of Wexford a coloured
+picture of St. Patrick which greatly pleased me. Most of it was green in
+colour, and St. Patrick wore a mitre and had a crosier in his hand. He
+was turning into the sea a number of nasty reptiles: snakes and toads
+and the rest. I bought this picture because it seemed to me as modern a
+piece of symbolism as ever I had seen: and that was why I bought it for
+my children and for my home.
+
+There was a few pence change, but I did not want it. The person who sold
+me the picture said they would spend the change in candles for St.
+Patrick's altar. So St. Patrick is still alive.
+
+
+
+
+The Lost Things
+
+
+I never remember an historian yet, nor a topographer either, who could
+tell me, or even pretend to explain by a theory, how it was that certain
+things of the past utterly and entirely disappear.
+
+It is a commonplace that everything is subject to decay, and a
+commonplace which the false philosophy of our time is too apt to forget.
+Did we remember that commonplace we should be a little more humble in
+our guesswork, especially where it concerns prehistory; and we should
+not make so readily certain where the civilization of Europe began, nor
+limit its immense antiquity. But though it is a commonplace, and a true
+one, that all human work is subject to decay, there seems to be an
+inexplicable caprice in the method and choice of decay.
+
+Consider what a body of written matter there must have been to instruct
+and maintain the technical excellence of Roman work. What a mass of
+books on engineering and on ship-building and on road-making; what
+quantities of tables and ready-reckoners, all that civilization must
+have produced and depended upon. Time has preserved much verse, and not
+only the best by any means, more prose, particularly the theological
+prose of the end of the Roman time. The technical stuff, which must, in
+the nature of things, have been indefinitely larger in amount, has (save
+in one or two instances and allusions) gone.
+
+Consider, again, all that mass of seven hundred years which was called
+Carthage. It was not only seven hundred years of immense wealth, of
+oligarchic government, of a vast population, and of what so often goes
+with commerce and oligarchy--civil and internal peace. A few stones to
+prove the magnitude of its municipal work, a few ornaments, a few
+graves--all the rest is absolutely gone. A few days' marches away there
+is an example I have quoted so often elsewhere that I am ashamed of
+referring to it again, but it does seem to me the most amazing example
+of historical loss in the world. It is the site of Hippo Regius. Here
+was St. Augustine's town, one of the greatest and most populous of a
+Roman province. It was so large that an army of eighty thousand men
+could not contain it, and even with such a host its siege dragged on for
+a year. There is not a sign of that great town today.
+
+A suburb, well without the walls--to be more accurate, a neighbouring
+village--carries on the name under the form of Bona, and that is all. A
+vast, fertile plain of black rich earth, now largely planted with
+vineyards, stands where Hippo stood. How can the stones have gone? How
+can it have been worth while to cart away the marble columns? Why are
+there no broken statues on such a ground, and no relics of the gods?
+
+Nay, the wells are stopped up from which the people drank, and the
+lining of the wells is not to be discovered in the earth, and the
+foundations of the walls, and even the ornaments of the people and their
+coins, all these have been spirited away.
+
+Then there are the roads. Consider that great road which reached from
+Amiens to the main port of Gaul, the Portus Itius at Boulogne. It is
+still in use. It was in use throughout the Middle Ages. Up that road the
+French Army marched to Crecy. It points straight to its goal upon the
+sea coast. Its whole purpose lay in reaching the goal. For some
+extraordinary reason, which I have never seen explained or even guessed
+at, there comes a point as it nears the coast where it suddenly ceases
+to be.
+
+No sand has blown over it. It runs through no marshes; the land is firm
+and fertile. Why should that, the most important section of the great
+road which led northward from Rome, have failed, and have failed so
+recently, in the history of man? Where this great road crosses streams
+and might reasonably be lost, at its _pontes_, its bridges, it has
+remained, and is of such importance as to have given a name to a whole
+countryside--_Ponthieu_. But north of that it is gone.
+
+Nearly every Roman road of Gaul and Britain presents something of the
+same puzzle in some parts of its course. It will run clear and
+followable enough, or form a modern highway for mile upon mile, and then
+not at a marsh where one would expect its disappearance, nor in some
+desolate place where it might have fallen out of use, but in the
+neighbourhood of a great city and at the very chief of its purpose, it
+is gone. It is so with the Stane Street that led up from the garrison of
+Chichester and linked it with the garrison of London. You can
+reconstruct it almost to a yard until you reach Epsom Downs. There you
+find it pointing to London Bridge, and remaining as clear as in any
+other part of its course: much clearer than in most other sections. But
+try to follow it on from Epsom Racecourse, and you entirely fail. The
+soil is the same; the conditions of that soil are excellent for its
+retention; but a year's work has taught me that there is no
+reconstructing it save by hypothesis and guesswork from this point to
+the crossing of the Thames.
+
+What happened to all that mass of local documents whereby we ought to be
+able to build up the territorial scheme and the landed regime of old
+France? Much remains, if you will, in the shape of chance charters and
+family papers. Even in the archives of Paris you can get enough to whet
+your curiosity. But not even in one narrow district can you obtain
+enough to reconstruct the whole truth. There is not a scholar in Europe
+who can tell you exactly how land was owned and held, even, let us say,
+on the estates of Rheims or by the family of Conde. And men are ready to
+quarrel as to how many peasants owned and how much of their present
+ownership was due to the Revolution, evidence has already become so
+wholly imperfect in that tiny stretch of historical time.
+
+But, after all, perhaps one ought not to wonder too much that material
+things should thus capriciously vanish. Time, which has secured Timgad
+so that it looks like an unroofed city of yesterday, has swept and razed
+Laimboesis. The two towns were neighbours--one was taken and the other
+left--and there is no sort of reason any man can give for it. Perhaps
+one ought not too much to wonder, for a greater wonder still is the
+sudden evaporation and loss of the great movements of the human soul.
+That what our ancestors passionately believed or passionately disputed
+should, by their descendants in one generation or in two, become
+meaningless, absurd, or false--this is the greatest marvel and the
+greatest tragedy of all.
+
+
+
+
+On the Reading of History
+
+
+Let me at the beginning of this short article present two facts to the
+reader. Neither can be disputed, and that is why I call them facts and
+put them in the forefront before I begin upon my theories.
+
+The first fact is that the record of what men have done in the past and
+how they have done it is the chief positive guide to present action. The
+second fact is that most men must now receive the impression of the past
+through reading.
+
+Put these two facts together and you get the fundamental truth that upon
+the right reading of history the right use of citizenship in England
+today will depend. It will of course depend upon other things as well:
+chiefly upon the human conscience; for if you were to pack off to an
+island a hundred families as ignorant as any human families can be of
+tradition, and wholly ignorant of positive history, those families would
+yet be able to create a human society and the voice of God within them
+would give just limits to their actions.
+
+Still, of those factors in civic action amenable to civic direction,
+conscious and positively effective, there is nothing to compare with the
+right teaching and the right reading of history. Now teaching is today
+ruined. The old machinery by which the whole nation could be got to know
+all essential human things, has been destroyed, and the teaching of
+history in particular has been not only ruined but rendered ridiculous.
+There is no historical school properly so-called in modern England; that
+is, there is no organization framed with the sole object of extending
+and co-ordinating historical knowledge and of choosing men for their
+capacity to discover upon the one hand and to teach upon the other.
+There is nothing approaching to it in the two ancient universities,
+because the choice of teachers there depends upon a multitude of
+considerations quite separate from those mentioned, and the capacity to
+discover, to know, and to teach history, though it _may_ be present
+in a tutor, will only be accidentally so present: while as for
+co-ordination of knowledge, there is no attempt at it. Even where very
+hard work is done, and, when it concerns local history, very useful
+work, history as a general study is not grasped because the universities
+have not grasped it.
+
+History is to be had by the modern Englishman from his own reading only;
+and I am here concerned with the question how he shall read history with
+profit.
+
+To read history with profit, history must be true, or at any rate the
+reader must have a power of discerning what is true in the midst of much
+that may be false. I will bargain, for instance, that in the summer of
+1899 the great mass of men, and especially the great mass of men who had
+passed through the universities, were under the impression that armies
+had left England for the purpose of conquest in distant countries with
+invariable success: that that success had been unique, unsupported and
+always decisive, and that the wealth of the country after each success
+had increased, not diminished. In other words, had history been studied
+even by the tiny minority who have education today in England, Sir
+William Butler would have counted more than the Joels, and the late Mr.
+Barnato (as he called himself); the South African War would not have
+taken place in a society which knew its past.
+
+Again, you may pick almost any phrase referring to the Middle Ages out
+of any newspaper--if you are a man read in the Middle Ages--and you will
+find in it not only a definite historical falsehood with regard to the
+fact referred to, or the analogy drawn, but also a false philosophy.
+
+For instance, the other day I read this phrase with regard to the burial
+of a certain gentleman of my neighbourhood in Sussex: "We are surely
+past the phase of mediaeval thought in which it was imagined that a few
+words spoken over the lifeless clay would determine the fate of the soul
+for all eternity." Just notice the myriad falsehoods of a phrase like
+that! I will not discuss what is connoted by the words "past the phase
+of mediaeval thought"--it connotes of course that the human mind changes
+fundamentally with the centuries, and therefore that whatever we think
+is probably wrong, and that what we are sure of we cannot be sure of, an
+absurd conclusion. I will only note the historical falsehoods. When on
+earth did the "Middle Ages" lay down that a "few words over lifeless
+clay determined the fate of the soul for all eternity"? On the contrary,
+the Middle Ages laid it down--it was their peculiar doctrine--that it
+was impossible to determine the fate of the soul; that no one could tell
+the fate of any one individual soul; that it was a grievous sin, among
+the most grievous of sins, to affirm positive knowledge that any
+individual had lost his soul. More than this, the Middle Ages were
+peculiar in their insistence upon the doctrine that a man might have
+been very bad and might have had all the appearance of having lost his
+soul so far as human judgment went, and yet was liable to a midway place
+between salvation and damnation, and they affirmed that this midway
+place did not lead to either fate but necessarily to salvation and to
+salvation only.
+
+Again, whatever could help the human soul to salvation was by the most
+rigorous theological definition of the Middle Ages applicable only
+before death. After death the fate of the soul was sealed, and the man
+once dead, the "lifeless clay" (as the journalist put it--and the Middle
+Ages was the only source from which he got the idea of clay at all),
+whether it were that of a Pope or of some random highwayman, had no
+effect whatsoever upon the fate of the soul. The greatest saint might
+have offered the most solemn sacrifice on its behalf for years, and if
+the soul were damned his sacrifice would have been of no avail.
+
+I have taken this example absolutely at random. But the modern reader,
+apart from sentences as clearly provocative of criticism as this, is
+perpetually coming across references, allusions, and parallels which
+take a certain course of human European and English history for granted.
+How is he to distinguish when that course is rightly drawn from when it
+is wrongly drawn?
+
+Thus in some newspaper article written by an able man, and dealing, let
+us say, with the territorial army, one might come across a sentence like
+this: "Napoleon himself used troops so raw that they were actually
+drilled on the march to the battlefield." That would be a perfectly true
+statement. Any amount of criticism of it lies in connexion with Mr.
+Haldane's scheme, but still it is a true piece of history. Napoleon did
+get raw recruits into his battalions just before any one of his famous
+marches began, and drill them on the way to victory. In the next column
+of the newspaper the reader may be presented with a sentence like this:
+"The captures of English by privateers in the Revolutionary War should
+teach us what foreign cruisers can do."
+
+There were plenty of captures by privateers in the Revolutionary Wars;
+if I remember rightly, many many hundreds, all discreetly hidden from
+the common or garden reader until party politics necessitated their
+resurrection a hundred years after the event, but they have nothing
+whatsoever to do with modern circumstances.
+
+Both statements are true then, and yet one can be truthfully applied
+today, while the other cannot.
+
+How is the plain reader to distinguish between two historical truths,
+one of which is a useful modern analogy, the other of which is a
+ludicrously misleading one?
+
+The reader, it would seem, has no criterion by which to distinguish what
+has been withheld from him and what has been emphasized; he may, from
+his knowledge of the historian's character or bias, stand upon his
+guard, but he can do little more.
+
+There is another difficulty. It is less subtle and less common, but it
+exists. I mean brute lying. You do not often get the lie direct in
+official history; it would be too dangerous a game to play in the face
+of the critics, though some historians, and notably the French historian
+Taine, have played it boldly enough, and have stated dogmatically, as
+historical happenings, things that never happened and that they knew
+never happened. But the plain or brute historical lie is more commonly
+found in the pages of ephemeral journalism. Thus the other day, with
+regard to the Budget, I saw some financial operation alluded to as
+comparable with "the pulling out of Jews' teeth for money in the Middle
+Ages." When did anyone in the Middle Ages pull out a Jew's teeth for
+money? There is just one very doubtful story told about King John, and
+that story is told without proof by one of John's worst enemies, in a
+mass of other accusations many of which can be proved to be false.
+
+Again, I turn to an Oxford History of the French Revolution, and I find
+the remark that the massacres of September were organized by the men
+from Marseilles. They were not organized by the men from Marseilles. The
+men from Marseilles had nothing to do with them, and the fact has been
+public property since the publication of Pollio and Marcel's monograph
+twenty years ago.
+
+What criterion can the ordinary reader choose when he is confronted by
+difficulties of this sort? I will suggest to him one which seems to me
+by far the most valuable. It is the reading of firsthand authorities. It
+is all a matter of habit. When the original authorities upon which
+history is based were difficult to get at, when few of those in foreign
+tongues had been translated, and when those that had been published were
+published in the most expensive form, the ordinary reader had to depend
+upon an historian who would summarize for him the reading of another.
+The ordinary reader was compelled to read secondary history or none. Now
+secondary history is among the most valuable of literary efforts; where
+evidence is slight, the judgment of an historian who knows from other
+reading the general character of the period, is most valuable. Where
+evidence is abundant, and therefore confusing, the historian used to the
+selection and weighing of it performs a most valuable function. Still,
+the reader who is not acquainted with original authorities does not
+really know history and is at the mercy of whatever myth or tradition
+may be handed to him in print.
+
+We should remember that today, even in England, original authorities are
+quite easy to get at. Two little books, for instance, occur to me out of
+hundreds: Mr. Rait's book on Mary Stuart and Mr. Archer's on the Third
+Crusade. In each of these the reader gets in a cheap form, in modern and
+readable English, the kind of evidence upon which historians base their
+history, and he can use that evidence in the light of his own knowledge
+of human nature and his own judgment of human life.
+
+Or again, if he wants to know what the Romans really knew or said they
+knew about the German tribes who, as pirates, so greatly influenced the
+history of England, let him get Mr. Rouse's edition of Grenewey's
+translation of the Germania in Blackie's series of English texts; it
+will only cost sixpence, and for that money he will get a bit of
+Caesar's Gallic War and the Agricola as well. But the list nowadays is a
+very long one, luckily, and the lay reader has only to choose what
+period he would like to read up, and he will find for nearly every one
+first-hand evidence ready, cheap and published in a readable modern
+form. That he should take such first-hand evidence is the very best
+advice that any honest historian can give.
+
+
+
+
+The Victory
+
+
+The study of history, like the exploration, the thorough exploration, of
+any other field, leads one to perpetual novelties, miracles, and
+unexpected things; and I, in the study of the revolutionary wars, came
+across the story of a battle which completely possessed my spirit.
+
+It would not be to my purpose here to give its name. It is not among the
+most famous; it is not Waterloo, nor Leipsic, nor Austerlitz, nor even
+Jemappes. The more I read into the night the more I perceived that upon
+the issue of that struggle depended the fate of the modern world. So
+completely did the notes of Carnot and a few private letters that had
+been put before me absorb my attention that I will swear the bugle-calls
+of those two days (for it was a two-days' struggle) sounded more clearly
+in my ears than the rumble of the London streets, and, as this died out
+with the advance of the night and the approach of morning, I was living
+entirely upon that ridge in Flanders, watching, as a man watches an
+arena, whether the new things or the old should be victorious. It was
+the new that conquered.
+
+From that evening I was determined to visit this place of which so far I
+had but read, and to see how far it might agree with the vision I had
+had of it, and to people actual fields with the ghosts of dead soldiers.
+And for the better appreciation of the drama I chose the season and the
+days on which the fight had been driven across that rolling land, and I
+came there, as the Republicans had come, a little before the dawn.
+
+The hillside was silent and deserted, more even than are commonly such
+places, though silence and desertion seem the common atmosphere of all
+the fields on which such fates have been decided. A man looking over
+Carthage Bay, especially a man looking at those sodden pools that were
+the sound harbours of Carthage, might be in an uninhabited world; and
+the loop of the Trebbia is the same, and the edge of Fontenoy; and even
+here in England that hillside looking south up which the Normans charged
+at Battle is a quiet and a drowsy sort of place.... So it was here in
+Flanders.
+
+For two miles as I ascended by the little sunken lane which the extreme
+right wing had followed in the last attack I saw neither man nor beast,
+but only the same stubble of the same autumn fields, and the same colder
+sun shining upon the empty uplands until I reached the crest where the
+Hungarian and the Croat had met the charge, and had disputed the little
+village for two hours--a dispute upon which hung your fate and mine and
+that of Europe.
+
+It was a tiny little village, seven or eight houses together and no
+more, with a crazy little wooden steeple to its church all twisted awry,
+large barns, and comfortable hedgerows of the Northern kind; and from it
+one looked out westwards over an infinity of country, following low
+crest after low crest, down on to the French plains. I went into the inn
+of the place to drink, and found the cobbler there complaining that
+wealth disturbed the natural equality of men. Then I wandered out,
+pacing this point and that which I knew accurately from my maps, and
+thinking of the noise of the war. Behind the little church, upon a
+ramshackle green not large enough to pitch the stumps for single-wicket,
+was the modest monument, a cock in bronze, crowing, and the word
+"Victory" stamped into the granite of the pedestal; the whole thing, I
+suppose, not ten feet high. The bronze was very well done; it savoured
+strongly of Paris and looked odd in this abandoned little place. But
+every time my eyes sank from the bronze, to look at some other point in
+the landscape to identify the emplacement of such and such a battery or
+the gully that had concealed the advance of such and such a troop, my
+glance perpetually returned to that word "VICTORY," sculptured by itself
+upon the stone. It was indeed a victory; it was a victory which, for its
+huge unexpectedness, for the noise of it, for the length of time during
+which it was in doubt, for its final success, there is no parallel, and
+yet it is by no means among the famous battles of the world. And though
+the French count it one among the thousand of their battles, I doubt
+whether even in Paris most men would recognize it for the hammer-blow it
+was. The men of the time hardly knew it, though Carnot guessed at it, and
+now to-day in Sorbonne I think that regal fight is taking its true place.
+
+So I went down the eight miles of front northward along the ridge; for
+even that battle, a hundred and more years ago, had an extended front of
+this kind. I recognized the tall majestic fringe of beeches from which
+had issued the last of the Royalist regiments bearing for the last time
+upon a European field the white flag of the Bourbon Monarchy; I came
+beyond it to the combe fringed with its semicircle of underbrush in
+which Coburg had massed his guns in the last effort to break the French
+centre when his flank was turned. I came to the main highway, very
+broad, straight, and paved, which cuts this battlefield in two, and then
+beyond it to the central position whose capture had made the final
+manoeuvre possible.
+
+All Wednesday the Grenadiers, German, tall, padded, smart, and stout,
+had held their ground. It was not until Thursday, and by noon, that they
+were slowly driven up the hill by the ragged lads, the Gauls, shoeless,
+some not in uniform at all, half-mutinous, drunk with pain and glory.
+And I remembered, as the scene returned to me, that this battle, like so
+many of the Revolution, had been a battle of men against boys; how grey
+and veteran and trained in arms were the Austrians and the Prussians,
+their allies, how strict in orders, how calm: and what children the
+Terror had called up by force from the exhausted fields of remote French
+provinces, to break them here against the frontier, like water against a
+wall...!
+
+There was a little chap, twelve years old, a drummer; he had crept and
+crawled by hedgerows till he found himself behind the line of those
+volleying Grenadiers. There, "before his side," and breaking all rules,
+he had sounded the roll of the charge. They cut him down and killed him,
+and the roll of his drum ceased hard. A generation or more later,
+digging for foundations at this spot, the builders of the Peace came
+upon his bones, the little bones of a child heaped pell-mell with
+skeletons of the fallen giants round him.
+
+I went back into the town in whose defence the battle had been waged,
+and there I saw again in bronze this little lad, head high and mouth
+open, a-beating of his drum, and again the word "VICTORY."
+
+All that effort was undertaken, all those young men and children killed,
+for something that was to happen for the salvation of the world; it has
+not come. All that iron resistance of the German line had been forged
+and organized till it almost conquered, till it almost thwarted, the
+Republic, and it also had been organized for the defence, and, as some
+thought, for the salvation, of the world. Some great good was to have
+come by the storming of that hill, or some great good by the defeat of
+the impetuous charge. Well, the hill was stormed, and (if you will) at
+Leipsic the effort which had stormed it was rolled back. What has
+happened to the High Goddess whom that youth followed, and worshipped as
+they say, and what to the Gods whom their enemies defended? The ridge is
+exactly the same.
+
+
+
+
+Reality
+
+
+A couple of generations ago there was a sort of man going mournfully
+about who complained of the spread of education. He had an ill-ease in
+his mind. He feared that book learning would bring us no good, and he
+was called a fool for his pains. Not undeservedly--for his thoughts were
+muddled, and if his heart was good it was far better than his head. He
+argued badly or he merely affirmed, but he had strong allies (Ruskin was
+one of them), and, like every man who is sincere, there was something in
+what he said; like every type which is numerous, there was a human
+feeling behind him: and he was very numerous.
+
+Now that he is pretty well extinct we are beginning to understand what
+he meant and what there was to be said for him. The greatest of the
+French Revolutionists was right--"After bread, the most crying need of
+the populace is knowledge." But what knowledge?
+
+The truth is that secondary impressions, impressions gathered from books
+and from maps, are valuable as adjuncts to primary impressions (that is,
+impressions gathered through the channel of our senses), or, what is
+always almost as good and sometimes better, the interpreting voice of
+the living man. For you must allow me the paradox that in some
+mysterious way the voice and gesture of a living witness always convey
+something of the real impression he has had, and sometimes convey more
+than we should have received ourselves from our own sight and hearing of
+the thing related.
+
+Well, I say, these secondary impressions are valuable as adjuncts to
+primary impressions. But when they stand absolute and have hardly any
+reference to primary impressions, then they may deceive. When they stand
+not only absolute but clothed with authority, and when they pretend to
+convince us even against our own experience, they are positively undoing
+the work which education was meant to do. When we receive them merely as
+an enlargement of what we know and make of the unseen things of which we
+read, things in the image of the seen, then they quite distort our
+appreciation of the world.
+
+Consider so simple a thing as a river. A child learns its map and knows,
+or thinks it knows, that such and such rivers characterize such and such
+nations and their territories. Paris stands upon the River Seine, Rome
+upon the River Tiber, New Orleans on the Mississippi, Toledo upon the
+River Tagus, and so forth. That child will know one river, the river
+near his home. And he will think of all those other rivers in its image.
+He will think of the Tagus and the Tiber and the Seine and the
+Mississippi--and they will all be the river near his home. Then let him
+travel, and what will he come across? The Seine, if he is from these
+islands, may not disappoint him or astonish him with a sense of novelty
+and of ignorance. It will indeed look grander and more majestic, seen
+from the enormous forest heights above its lower course, than what,
+perhaps, he had thought possible in a river, but still it will be a
+river of water out of which a man can drink, with clear-cut banks and
+with bridges over it, and with boats that ply up and down. But let him
+see the Tagus at Toledo, and what he finds is brown rolling mud, pouring
+solid after the rains, or sluggish and hardly a river after long
+drought. Let him go down the Tiber, down the Valley of the Tiber, on
+foot, and he will retain until the last miles an impression of nothing
+but a turbid mountain torrent, mixed with the friable soil in its bed.
+Let him approach the Mississippi in the most part of its long course and
+the novelty will be more striking still. It will not seem to him a river
+at all (if he be from Northern Europe); it will seem a chance flood. He
+will come to it through marshes and through swamps, crossing a deserted
+backwater, finding firm land beyond, then coming to further shallow
+patches of wet, out of which the tree-stumps stand, and beyond which
+again mud-heaps and banks and groups of reeds leave undetermined, for
+one hundred yards after another, the limits of the vast stream. At last,
+if he has a boat with him, he may make some place where he has a clear
+view right across to low trees, tiny from their distance, similarly half
+swamped upon a further shore, and behind them a low escarpment of bare
+earth. That is the Mississippi nine times out of ten, and to an
+Englishman who had expected to find from his early reading or his maps a
+larger Thames it seems for all the world like a stretch of East Anglian
+flood, save that it is so much more desolate.
+
+The maps are coloured to express the claims of Governments. What do they
+tell you of the social truth? Go on foot or bicycling through the more
+populated upland belt of Algiers and discover the curious mixture of
+security and war which no map can tell you of and which none of the
+geographies make you understand. The excellent roads, trodden by men
+that cannot make a road; the walls as ready loopholed for fighting; the
+Christian church and the mosque in one town; the necessity for and the
+hatred of the European; the indescribable difference of the sun, which
+here, even in winter, has something malignant about it, and strikes as
+well as warms; the mountains odd, unlike our mountains; the forests,
+which stand as it were by hardihood, and seem at war against the
+influence of dryness and the desert winds, with their trees far apart,
+and between them no grass, but bare earth alone.
+
+So it is with the reality of arms and with the reality of the sea. Too
+much reading of battles has ever unfitted men for war; too much talk of
+the sea is a poison in these great town populations of ours which know
+nothing of the sea. Who that knows anything of the sea will claim
+certitude in connexion with it? And yet there is a school which has by
+this time turned its mechanical system almost into a commonplace upon
+our lips, and talks of that most perilous thing, the fortunes of a
+fleet, as though it were a merely numerical and calculable thing! The
+greatest of Armadas may set out and not return.
+
+There is one experience of travel and of the physical realities of the
+world which has been so widely repeated, and which men have so
+constantly verified, that I could mention it as a last example of my
+thesis without fear of misunderstanding. I mean the quality of a great
+mountain.
+
+To one that has never seen a mountain it may seem a full and a fine
+piece of knowledge to be acquainted with its height in feet exactly, its
+situation; nay, many would think themselves learned if they know no more
+than its conventional name. But the thing itself! The curious sense of
+its isolation from the common world, of its being the habitation of awe,
+perhaps the brooding-place of a god!
+
+I had seen many mountains, I had travelled in many places, and I had
+read many particular details in the books--and so well noted them upon
+the maps that I could have re-drawn the maps--concerning the Cerdagne.
+None the less the sight of that wall of the Cerdagne, when first it
+struck me, coming down the pass from Tourcarol, was as novel as though
+all my life had been spent upon empty plains. By the map it was 9000
+feet. It might have been 90,000! The wonderment as to what lay beyond,
+the sense that it was a limit to known things, its savage intangibility,
+its sheer silence! Nothing but the eye seeing could give one all those
+things.
+
+The old complain that the young will not take advice. But the wisest
+will tell them that, save blindly and upon authority, the young cannot
+take it. For most of human and social experience is words to the young,
+and the reality can come only with years. The wise complain of the jingo
+in every country; and properly, for he upsets the plans of statesmen,
+miscalculates the value of national forces, and may, if he is powerful
+enough, destroy the true spirit of armies. But the wise would be wiser
+still if, while they blamed the extravagance of this sort of man, they
+would recognize that it came from that half-knowledge of mere names and
+lists which excludes reality. It is maps and newspapers that turn an
+honest fool into a jingo.
+
+It is so again with distance, and it is so with time. Men will not grasp
+distance unless they have traversed it, or unless it be represented to
+them vividly by the comparison of great landscapes. Men will not grasp
+historical time unless the historian shall be at the pains to give them
+what historians so rarely give, the measure of a period in terms of a
+human life. It is from secondary impressions divorced from reality that
+a contempt for the past arises, and that the fatal illusion of some
+gradual process of betterment of "progress" vulgarizes the minds of men
+and wastes their effort. It is from secondary impressions divorced from
+reality that a society imagines itself diseased when it is healthy, or
+healthy when it is diseased. And it is from secondary impressions
+divorced from reality that springs the amazing power of the little
+second-rate public man in those modern machines that think themselves
+democracies. This last is a power which, luckily, cannot be greatly
+abused, for the men upon whom it is thrust are not capable even of abuse
+upon a great scale. It is none the less marvellous in its falsehood.
+
+Now you will say at the end of this, Since you blame so much the power
+for distortion and for ill residing in our great towns, in our system of
+primary education and in our papers and in our books, what remedy can
+you propose? Why, none, either immediate or mechanical. The best and the
+greatest remedy is a true philosophy, which shall lead men always to ask
+themselves what they really know and in what order of certitude they
+know it; where authority actually resides and where it is usurped. But,
+apart from the advent, or rather the recapture, of a true philosophy by
+a European society, two forces are at work which will always bring
+reality back, though less swiftly and less whole. The first is the poet,
+and the second is Time.
+
+Sooner or later Time brings the empty phrase and the false conclusion up
+against what is; the empty imaginary looks reality in the face and the
+truth at once conquers. In war a nation learns whether it is strong or
+no, and how it is strong and how weak; it learns it as well in defeat as
+in victory. In the long processes of human lives, in the succession of
+generations, the real necessities and nature of a human society destroy
+any false formula upon which it was attempted to conduct it. Time must
+always ultimately teach.
+
+The poet, in some way it is difficult to understand (unless we admit
+that he is a seer), is also very powerful as the ally of such an
+influence. He brings out the inner part of things and presents them to
+men in such a way that they cannot refuse but must accept it. But how
+the mere choice and rhythm of words should produce so magical an effect
+no one has yet been able to comprehend, and least of all the poets
+themselves.
+
+
+
+
+On the Decline of the Book: [And Especially of the Historical Book]
+
+
+It is an interesting speculation by what means the Book lost its old
+position in this country. This is not only an interesting speculation,
+but one which nearly concerns a vital matter. For if men fall into the
+habit of neglecting true books in an old and traditional civilization,
+the inaccuracy of their judgments and the illusions to which they will
+be subject, must increase.
+
+To take but one example: history. The less the true historical book is
+read and the more men depend upon ephemeral statement, the more will
+legend crystallize, the harder will it be to destroy in the general mind
+some comforting lie, and the great object-lesson of politics (which is
+an accurate knowledge of how men have acted in the past) will become at
+last unknown.
+
+There are many, especially among younger men, who would contest the
+premiss upon which all this is founded. They may point out, for
+instance, that the actual number of bound books bought in a given time
+at present is much larger than ever it was before. They may point out
+again, and with justice, that the proportion of the population which
+reads books of any sort, though perhaps not larger than it was three
+hundred years ago, is very much larger than it was one hundred years
+ago. And it may further be affirmed with truth that the range of
+subjects now covered by books produced and sold is much wider than ever
+it was before.
+
+All this is true; and yet it is also true that the Book as a factor in
+our civilization has not only declined but has almost disappeared. Were
+many more dogs to be possessed in England than are now possessed, but
+were they to be all mongrels, among which none could be found capable of
+retrieving, or of following a fox or a hare with any discipline, one
+would have a right to say that the dog as a factor of our civilization
+had declined. Were many more men in England able to ride horses more or
+less, but were the number of those who rode constantly and for pleasure
+enormously to diminish, and were the new millions who could just manage
+to keep on horseback to prefer animals without spirit on which they
+would feel safe, one would have a right to say that the horse was
+declining as a factor in our civilization; and this is exactly what has
+happened with the Book.
+
+The excellence of a book and its value as a book depend upon two
+factors, which are usually, though not always, united in varied
+proportions: first, that it should put something of value to the reader,
+whether of value as a discovery and an enlargement of wisdom or of value
+as a new emphasis laid upon old and sound morals; secondly, that this
+thing added or renewed in human life should be presented in such a
+manner as to give permanent aesthetic pleasure.
+
+That is not a first-rate book which, while it is admirably written,
+teaches something false or something evil; nor is that a first-rate book
+which, though it discover a completely new thing, or emphasize the most
+valuable department of morals, is so constructed as to be unreadable.
+Now it will not be denied that as far as these two factors are
+concerned--and I repeat they are almost always found in combination--the
+position of the Book has dwindled almost to nothingness. One could give
+examples of almost every kind: one could show how poetry, no matter how
+appreciated or praised, no longer sells. One could show--and this is one
+of the worst signs of all--how men will buy by the hundred thousand
+anything at all which has the hall mark of an established reputation,
+quite careless as to their love of it or their appetite for it. One
+could further show how more than one book of permanent value in English
+life has been discovered in our generation outside England, and has been
+as it were thrust upon the English public by foreign opinion.
+
+But for my purpose it will be sufficient to take one very important
+branch which I can claim to have watched with some care, and that is the
+branch of History.
+
+It may be said with truth that in our generation no single first-rate
+piece of history has enjoyed an appreciable sale. That is not true of
+France, it is not true of the United States, it is not even true of
+Germany in her intellectual decline, but it is true of England.
+
+History is an excellent test. No man will read history, at least history
+of an instructive sort, unless he is a man who can read a book, and
+desires to possess one. To read History involves not only some permanent
+interest in things not immediately sensible, but also some permanent
+brain-work in the reader; for as one reads history one cannot, if one is
+an intelligent being, forbear perpetually to contrast the lessons it
+teaches with the received opinions of our time. Again, History is
+valuable as an example in the general thesis I am maintaining, because
+no good history can be written without a great measure of hard work. To
+make a history at once accurate, readable, useful, and new, is probably
+the hardest of all literary efforts; a man writing such history is
+driving more horses abreast in his team than a man writing any other
+kind of literary matter. He must keep his imagination active; his style
+must be not only lucid, but also must arrest the reader; he must
+exercise perpetually a power of selection which plays over innumerable
+details; he must, in the midst of such occupations, preserve unity of
+design, as much as must the novelist or the playwright; and yet with all
+this there is not a verb, an adjective or a substantive which, if it
+does not repose upon established evidence, will not mar the particular
+type of work on which he is engaged.
+
+As an example of what I mean, consider two sentences: The first is taken
+from the 432nd page of that exceedingly unequal publication, the
+_Cambridge History of the French Revolution_; the second I have
+made up on the spur of the moment; both deal with the Battle of
+Wattignies. The "Cambridge History" version runs as follows:--
+
+On October 15 the relieving force, 50,000 strong, attacked the Austrian
+covering force at Wattignies; the battle raged all that day and was most
+furious on the right, in front of the village of Wattignies, which was
+taken and lost three times; on the 17th the French expected another
+general engagement but the enemy had drawn off.
+
+There are here five great positive errors in six lines. The French were
+not 50,000 strong, the attack on the 15th was not on Wattignies, but on
+Dourlers; Wattignies was not taken and lost three times; the fight of
+the 15th was _least_ pressed on the right (harder on the left and
+hardest in the centre) and no one--not the least recruit--expected
+Coburg to come _back_ on the 17th. Why, he had crossed the Sambre
+at every point the day before! As for negative errors, or errors of
+omission, they are capital, and the chief is that the victory was won on
+the second day, the 16th, of which no mention is made.
+
+Now contrast such a sentence with the following:--
+
+On October 15th the relieving force, 42,000 strong, attacked the
+Austrian centre at Dourlers, and made demonstrations upon its wings; the
+attack upon Dourlers (which village had been taken and lost three times)
+having failed, upon the following day, October 16th, the extreme left of
+the enemy's position at Wattignies was attacked and carried; the enemy
+thus outflanked was compelled to retreat, and Maubeuge was relieved the
+same evening.
+
+In the first sentence (which bears the hall mark of the University)
+every error that could possibly be made in so few lines has been made.
+The numbers are wrong; the nature of the fighting is misstated; the
+village in the centre is confused with that on the extreme right; the
+critical second day is altogether omitted, and every portion of the
+sentence, verb, adjective, and substantive, is either directly
+inaccurate or indirectly conveys an inaccurate impression. The second
+sentence, bald in style and uninteresting in presentation as the first,
+has the merit of telling the truth. But--and here is the point--it would
+be impossible to criticize the first sentence unless someone had read up
+the battle, and to read up that battle one has to depend on five or six
+documents, some unpublished (like much of Jourdan's Memoirs), some of
+them involving a visit to Maubeuge itself, some, like Pierrat's book,
+very difficult to obtain (for it is neither in the British Museum nor in
+the Bodleian) some few the writings of contemporary eyewitnesses, and
+yet themselves demonstrably inaccurate. All these must be read and
+collated, and if possible the actual ground of the battle visited,
+before the first simple inaccurate sentence can be properly criticized
+or the second bald but accurate sentence framed. None of these
+authorities can have been so much as heard of by the official historian
+I have quoted.
+
+It would be redundant to press the point. Most readers know well enough
+what labour the just writing of history involves, and how excellent a
+type it is of that "making of a book" which art is, as I have said,
+imperilled by apathy at the present day.
+
+Consider for a moment who were those that purchased historical works in
+this country in the past. There were, first of all, the landed gentry.
+In almost every great country-house you will find a good old library,
+and that good old library you will discover to be, as a rule, most
+valuable and most complete in what concerns the end of the eighteenth
+and the beginning of the nineteenth centuries. A very large proportion
+of history, and history of the best sort, is to be found upon those
+shelves. The standard dwindles, though it is fairly well maintained
+during the first two-thirds of the nineteenth century. Then--as a
+rule--it abruptly comes to an end. One may take as a sort of bourne, the
+two great books Macaulay's _History_ and Kinglake's, for an earlier
+and a later limit. Most of these libraries contain Macaulay; some few
+Kinglake; hardly one possesses later works of value.
+
+It may be urged in defence of the buyer that no later works of value
+exist. Put so broadly, the statement is erroneous; but the truth which
+it contains is in itself dependent upon the lack of public support for
+good historical work. When there is a fortune for the man who writes in
+accordance with whatever form of self-appreciation happens for the
+moment to be popular, while a steady view and an accurate presentation
+of the past can find no sale, then that steady view and that accurate
+presentation cannot be pursued save by men who are wealthy, or by men
+who are endowed, but even wealthy men will hesitate to write what they
+know will not be read, and for history no one is endowed.
+
+Our Universities were framed for many purposes, of which the cultivation
+of learning was but one; in that one field, however, a particular form
+of learning was taken very seriously, and was pursued with admirable
+industry; I mean an acquaintance with and an imitation of the Latin and
+Greek Classics.
+
+It was a particular character of this form of learning that proficiency
+in it would lead to undisputed honours. The scholar recognized the
+superior scholar; the field of inquiry was by convention highly limited;
+it had been thoroughly explored; discussion upon such results as were
+doubtful did not involve a difference in general philosophy.
+
+With history it is otherwise. Whether such things have or have not
+happened, and, above all, if they have happened, the _way_ in which
+they have happened, is to our general judgment of contemporary men what
+evidence is to a criminal trial. Facts won't give way. If, therefore,
+there are vested interests, moral or material, to be maintained, history
+is, of all the sciences or arts, that one most likely to suffer at the
+hands of those connected with such interests. Even where the truth will
+be of advantage to those interests, they are afraid of it, because the
+thorough discussion of it will involve the presentation of views
+disadvantageous to privilege.
+
+Where, as is much more commonly the case (for vested interests, moral or
+material, are unreasoning and selfish things), the truth would certainly
+offend them, they are the more determined to prevent its appearance.
+
+But of all vested interests none deal with such assured incomes, none
+are so immune by influence and tradition as the Universities.
+
+Now, if the rich man has no temptation by way of popular fame, and the
+poor man no opportunity for endowment, in any branch of letters, there
+remains but a third form of support, and that is the support of the
+buying public. And the public will not buy.
+
+I will suppose the case of a popular novelist, who in a few months shall
+write, not an historical novel, but a piece of so-called history. He
+shall call it, for instance, "England's Heroes." Before you tell me his
+name, or what he has written, I can tell you here and now what he will
+write on any number of points. He will call Hastings Senlac. In the
+Battle of Hastings he will make out Harold to be the head of a highly
+patriotic nation called the "Anglo-Saxons"; they shall be desperately
+defending themselves against certain French-speaking Scandinavians
+called Normans. He will deplore the defeat, but will say it was all for
+the best. Magna Charta he will have signed at Runnymede--probably he
+will have it drawn up there as well. He will translate the most famous
+clause by the modern words "Judgment of his peers" and "law of the
+land." He will represent the Barons as having behind them the voice of
+the whole nation--and so forth. When he comes to Crecy he will make
+Edward III speak English. When he comes to Agincourt he will leave his
+readers as ignorant as himself upon the boundaries, numbers and power of
+the Burgundian faction. In the Civil War Oliver Cromwell will be an
+honest and not very rich gentleman of the middle-classes. The
+Parliamentary force will be that of the mass of the people against a few
+gallant but wicked aristocrats who follow the perfidious Charles. He
+will make no mention of the pay of the Ironsides. James II will be
+driven out by a popular uprising, in which the great Churchill will play
+an honourable and chivalric part. The loss of the American Colonies will
+be deplored, and will be ascribed to the folly of attempting to tax men
+of "Anglo-Saxon" blood, unless you grant them representation. The
+Continental troops will be treated as the descendants of Englishmen! The
+guns at Saratoga will be Colonial guns; the incapacity of the Fleet will
+not be touched upon. Here again, as in the case of the Battle of
+Hastings, all will be for the best, and there will be a few touching
+words upon the passionate affection now felt for Great Britain by the
+inhabitants of the United States. The defensive genius of Wellington
+will be represented as that of a general particularly great in the
+offensive. Talavera will be a victory. The Spanish Auxiliaries in the
+Peninsula will be contemptible. No guns will be abandoned before Coruna,
+but what are left at Coruna will be mentioned and re-embarked. The
+character of Nelson will receive a curious sort of glutinous praise; Emma
+Hamilton, not Naples, will be the stain upon his name; the Battle of
+Trafalgar will prevent the invasion of England.
+
+This is a lengthy but not unjust description of what this gentleman
+would write; it is rubbish from beginning to end. It would sell, because
+every word of it would foster in the reader the illusion that the
+community of which he is a member is invincible under all circumstances,
+that effort and self-denial and suffering are spared him alone out of
+all mankind, and that a little pleasurable excitement, preferably that
+to be obtained from his favourite game, is the chief factor in military
+success.
+
+I have omitted Alfred. Alfred in such a book will be the "teller of
+truth"--but he will not go to Mass.
+
+Given that the name is sufficiently well known, there is hardly any
+limit to the sale of a book modelled upon these lines. Contrast with its
+fate the fate of a book, written no matter how powerfully, that should
+insist upon truths, no matter how valuable to the English people at the
+present moment. These truths need by no means be unpleasant, though at
+the present moment an unpleasant truth is undoubtedly more valuable than
+a pleasant one. They could make as much or more for the glory of the
+country; they could be at any rate of infinitely greater service, but
+they would not be received, simply because they would compel close
+attention and brain-work in the reader as well as in the writer of them.
+An established groove would have to be abandoned; to use a strong
+metaphor, the reader would have to get out of bed, and that is what the
+modern reader will not do. Tell him that the men who fought on either
+side at Hastings' plain cared nothing for national but everything for
+feudal allegiance; that _lex terrae_ means the local custom of
+ordeal and not the "law of the land"; tell him that _judicium
+parium_ means the right of a noble to be judged by nobles, and has
+nothing to do with the jury system; tell him that Magna Charta was
+certainly drawn up before the meeting at Runnymede; that not until the
+Lancastrians did English kings speak English; that Oliver Cromwell owed
+his position to the enormous wealth of the Williamses, of whom had he
+not been a cadet, he would never have been known; tell him that the
+whole force of the Parliament resided in the squires and that the Civil
+Wars turned England into an oligarchy; tell him the exact truth about
+the infamy of Churchill; tell him what proportion of Englishmen during
+the American War were taxed without being represented; tell him what
+proportion of Washington's troops were of English blood; tell him any
+one illuminating and true thing about the history of his country, and
+the novelty will so offend him that a direct insult would have pleased
+him better.
+
+What is true of history is true of nearly all the rest, and the upshot
+of the whole matter is that there is not, either in private patronage or
+in popular demand, a chance for history in modern England.
+
+You can have excellent literature in journalism, and it will be widely
+read. I would say more--I would say that the better literature a
+newspaper admits, the more widely will that paper be read, or at any
+rate the greater will its influence be on modern Englishmen. But when it
+comes to the kneaded and wrought matter of the true Book, neither the
+public nor the centres of learning will have any of it, and the last
+medium which might make it possible, patronage, has equally disappeared,
+because the modern patron does not work in the daylight in the full view
+of the nation and with its full approbation, and he is no longer a public
+man (though he is richer than ever he was before). His patronage,
+therefore, though it is still considerable, is expended in satisfying his
+private demand. Private architects build him doubtful castles, private
+collectors get him manuscripts and jewels, but Letters, which are a public
+thing, he can no longer command.
+
+It might be asked, by way of conclusion, whether there is any remedy for
+this state of things. There is none. Its prime cause resides in a
+certain attitude of the national mind, and this kind of broadly held
+philosophy is not changed save by slow preaching or external shock. As
+long as modern England remains what we know it, and follows the lines of
+change which we see it following, the Book will necessarily decline more
+and more, and we must make up our minds to it.
+
+Of other evil tendencies of our time, one can say of some that they are
+obviously mending, of others that such and such an applicable remedy
+would mend them. Our public architecture is certainly getting better; so
+is our painting. Our gross and increasing contempt of self-government
+(to take quite another sphere) is curable by one or two simple reforms
+in procedure, registration, the expenses of election, and voting at the
+polls, which would restore the House of Commons to life, and give it
+power to express English will. But a regard for, a cultivation of, above
+all a sinking of wealth upon, English Letters is past praying for. We
+must wait until the tide changes; we can do nothing, and the waiting
+will be long.
+
+
+
+
+Jose Maria de Heredia
+
+
+The French have a phrase "la beaute du verbe" by which they would
+express a something in the sound and in the arrangement of words which
+supplements whatever mere thought those words were intended to express.
+It is evident that no definition of this beauty can be given, but it is
+also evident that without it letters would not exist. How it arises we
+cannot explain, yet the process is familiar to us in everything we do
+when we are attempting to fulfil an impulse towards whatever is good. An
+integration not of many small things but of an infinite series of
+infinitely small things build up the perfect gesture, the perfect line,
+the perfect intonation, and the perfect phrase. So indeed are all things
+significant built up: every tone of the voice, every arrangement of
+landscape or of notes in music which awake us and reveal the things
+beyond. But when one says that this is especially true of perfect
+expression one means that sometimes, rarely, the integration achieves a
+steadfast and sufficient formula. The mind is satisfied rather than
+replete. It asks no more; and if it desires to enjoy further the
+pleasure such completion has given it, it does not attempt to prolong or
+to develop the pleasure under which it has leapt; it is content to wait
+a while and to return, knowing well that it has here a treasure laid up
+for ever.
+
+All this may be expressed in two words: the Classical Spirit. That is
+Classic of which it is true that the enjoyment is sufficient when it is
+terminated and that in the enjoyment of it an entity is revealed.
+
+When men propose to bequeath to their fellows work of so supreme a kind
+it is to be noticed that they choose by instinct a certain material.
+
+It has been said that the material in which he works affects the
+achievement of the artist: it is truer to say that it helps him. A man
+designing a sculpture in marble knows very well what he is about to do.
+A man attempting the exact and restrained rendering of tragedy upon the
+stage does not choose the stage as one among many methods, he is drawn
+to it: he needs it; the audience, the light, the evening, the very slope
+of the boards, all minister to his efforts. And so a man determined to
+produce the greatest things in verse takes up by nature exact and
+thoughtful words and finds that their rhythm, their combination, and
+their sound turn under his hand to something greater than he himself at
+first intended; he becomes a creator, and his name is linked with the
+name of a masterpiece. The material in which he has worked is hard; the
+price he has paid is an exceeding effect; the reward he has earned is
+permanence.
+
+Jose de Heredia was an artist of this kind. The mass of the verse he
+produced, or rather published, was small. It might have been very large.
+It is not (as a foolish modern affectation will sometimes pretend)
+necessary to the endurance or even the excellence of work that it should
+be the product of exceptional moments; nor is it even true (as the wise
+Ancients believed) that great length of time must always mature it. But
+the small volume of Heredia's legacy to European letters does argue this
+at least in the poet, that he passionately loved perfection and that,
+finding himself able to achieve it (for perfection can be achieved) but
+now and then, he chose only to be remembered by the contentment which,
+now and then, his own genius had given him.
+
+He worked upon verse as men work upon the harder metals; all that he did
+was chiselled very finely, then sawn to an exact configuration and at
+last inlaid, for when he published his completed volume it is true to
+say that every piece fitted in with the sound of one before and of one
+after. He was careful in the heroic degree.
+
+His blood and descent are worthy of notice. He was a Spaniard,
+inheriting from the first Conquerors of the New World, nor was it
+remarkable to those who have received a proper enthusiasm for the
+classical spirit that the energy and even the violence natural to such a
+lineage should express themselves in the coldest and the most exalted
+form when, for the second time, a member of the family attempted verse.
+It is in the essence of that spirit that it alone can dare to be
+disciplined. It never doubts the motive power that will impel it; it is
+afraid, if anything, of an excess of power, and consciously imposes upon
+itself the limits which give it form.
+
+Heredia in his person expressed the activity which impelled him, for he
+was strong, brown, erect, a rapid walker, and a man whose voice was
+perpetually modulated in resonant and powerful tones. In his last years
+during his administration of the Library at the Arsenal this vitality of
+his took on an aspect of good nature very charming and very fruitful.
+His organization of the place was thorough, his knowledge of the readers
+intimate. He refused the manuscripts of none, he advised, laughed, and
+consoled. His criticism was sure. Several, notably Marcel Prevost, were
+launched by his authority. The same deep security of literary judgment
+which had permitted him to chastise and to perfect his impeccable
+sonnets into their final form permitted him also to hold up before his
+eyes, grasp, and judge the work of every other man.
+
+His frailty, as must always be the frailty of such men, was
+fastidiousness. The same sensitive consciousness which is said to have
+all but lost us the Aeneid, and which certainly all but lost us the
+Apologia, dominated his otherwise vigorous soul. It is more than forty
+years since his first verse, written just upon achieving his majority,
+appeared in the old _Revue de Paris_ and in the _Revue des Deux
+Mondes_. It was not till 1893 that he collected in one volume the
+scattered sonnets of his youth and middle age: the collection won him
+somewhat tardily his chair in the Academy. There is irony in the
+reminiscence that the man he defeated in that election was Zola.
+
+All the great men who saluted his advent are dead. Theophile Gautier,
+who first established his fame; Hugo, who addressed to him, perhaps,
+that vigorous appeal in which strict labour is deified, and the medal
+and the marble bust are shown to outlive the greatest glories, are
+sometimes quoted as the last among the great French writers.
+
+The immediate future will show that the stream of French excellence in
+this department, as in any other of human activity, is full, deep, and
+steady. The work of Heredia will help to prove it. He was a Spaniard,
+and a Colonial Spaniard. No other nation, perhaps, except the modern
+French, so inherit the romantic appetite of the later Roman Empire as to
+be able to mould and absorb every exterior element of excellence. It is
+remarkable that at the same moment Paris contemplated the funeral of the
+Italian de Brazza and the death of the Cuban Heredia. It is probable
+that those of us who are still young will live to see either name at the
+head of a new tradition. Heredia proved it possible not so much to
+imitate as to recapture the secure tradition of an older time. Perhaps
+the truest generalization that can be made with regard to the French
+people is to say that they especially in Western Europe (whose quality
+it is ever to transform itself but never to die) discover new springs of
+vitality after every period of defeat and aridity which they are
+compelled to cross. Heredia will prove in the near future a capital
+example of this power. He will increase silently in reputation until we,
+in old age, shall be surprised to find our sons and grandsons taking him
+for granted and speaking of him as one speaks of the Majores, of the
+permanent lights of poetry.
+
+
+
+
+Normandy and the Normans
+
+
+There is no understanding a country unless one gets to know the nature
+of its sub-units. In some way not easy to comprehend, impossible to
+define, and yet very manifest, each of the great national organisms of
+which Christendom is built up is itself a body of many regions whose
+differences and interaction endow it with a corporate life. No one could
+understand the past of England who did not grasp the local genius of the
+counties--Lancashire, cut off eastward by the Pennines, southward by the
+belt of marsh, with no natural entry save by the gate of Stockport;
+Sussex, which was and is a bishopric and a kingdom; Kent, Devon, the
+East Anglian meres. No one could (or does) understand modern England who
+does not see its sub-units to have become by now the great industrial
+towns, or who fails to seize the spirit of each group of such
+towns--with London lying isolated in the south, a negative to the rest.
+
+France is built of such sub-units: it is the peculiarity of French
+development that these are not small territories mainly of an average
+extent with government answerable in a long day's ride to one centre,
+such as most English counties are; nor city States such as form the
+piles upon which the structure of Italy has been raised; nor kingdoms
+such as coalesced to reform the Spanish people; but _provinces_,
+differing greatly in area, from little plains enclosed, like the
+Rousillon, to great stretches of landscape succeeding landscape like the
+Bourbonnais or the Perigord.
+
+The real continuity with an immemorial past which inspires all Gallic
+things is discoverable in this arrangement of Gaul. At the first glance
+one might imagine a French province to be a chance growth of the feudal
+ties and of the Middle Ages. A further effort of scholarship will prove
+it essentially Roman. An intimate acquaintance with its customs and with
+the site of its strongholds, coupled with a comparison of the most
+recent and most fruitful hypotheses of historians, will convince you
+that it is earlier than the Roman conquest; it is tribal, or the home of
+a group of cognate tribes, and its roots are lost in prehistory. So it
+is with Normandy.
+
+This vast territory--larger (I think) than all North England from the
+Humber to Cheviot and from Chester to the Solway--has never formed a
+nation. It is typical of the national idea in France that Normandy
+should have "held" of the political centre of the country, probably
+since the first Gallic confederations were formed, certainly since the
+organization of the Empire. It is equally typical of the local life of a
+French province that, thus dependent, Normandy should have strictly
+preserved its manner and its spirit, and should have readily made war
+upon the Crown and resisted, as it still resists and will perhaps for
+ever, the centralizing forces of the national temper.
+
+If you will travel day after day, and afoot, westward across the length
+of Normandy, you will have, if you are a good walker, a fortnight's
+task ahead of you; even if you are walking for a wager, a week's. It is
+the best way in which to possess a knowledge of that great land, and my
+advice would be to come in from the Picards over the bridge of Aumale
+across the little River Bresle (which is the boundary of Normandy to the
+east), and to go out by way of Pontorson, there crossing into Brittany
+over the little River Couesnon, which is the boundary of Normandy upon
+the west and beyond which lie the Bretons. In this way will you be best
+acquainted with the sharp differentiation of the French provinces
+passing into Normandy from Picardy, brick-built, horse-breeding, and
+slow, passing out of Normandy into the desolation and dreams of
+Brittany, and having known between the one and the other the chalk
+streams, the day-long beechen forests, the valley pastures, and the
+flamboyant churches of the Normans. You will do well to go by
+Neufchatel, where the cheese is made, and by Rouen, then by Lisieux to
+Falaise, where the Conqueror was born, and thence by Vive to Avranches
+and so to the Breton border, taking care to choose the forests between
+one town and another for your road, since these many and deep
+woods--much wider than any we know in England--are in great part the
+soul of the country.
+
+By this itinerary you will not have taken all you should into view; you
+will not have touched the coast nor seen how Normandy is based upon the
+sea, and you will not have known the Cotentin, which is a little State
+of its own and is the quadrilateral which Normandy thrusts forth into
+the Channel. If you have the leisure, therefore, return by the north.
+Pass through Coutances and Valognes to Cherbourg, thence through Caen
+and Bayeux to the crossing of Seine at Honfleur, and then on by the
+chalk uplands and edges of the cliffs till you reach Eu upon the Bresle
+again. In such a double journey the character of the whole will be
+revealed, and if you have studied the past of the place before starting
+you will find your journey full. Avranches, Coutances, Lisieux, Bayeux,
+Rouen are not chance sites. Their great churches mark the bishoprics;
+the bishoprics in turn were the administrative centres of Rome, and Rome
+chose them because they were the strongholds or the sacred cities each
+of a Gallic tribe. The wealth of the valleys permitted everywhere that
+astonishing richness of detail which marks the stonework in village
+after village; the connexion with England, especially the last connexion
+under Henry V, explains the innumerable churches, splendid even in
+hamlets as are our own. The Bresle and the Couesnon, those little
+streams, are boundaries not of these last few centuries, but of a time
+beyond view; the Romans found them so. Diocletian made them the limits
+of the "Second Lyonesse," "Lugdunensis Secunda," which was the last
+Roman name of the province.
+
+Here and there, near the west especially, you will discover names which
+recall the chief adventure of Normandy, the accident which baptized it
+with its Christian name, the landing of the Scandinavian pirates, the
+thousandth anniversary of which is now being celebrated. They came--we
+cannot tell in what numbers, some thousands--and harried the land. The
+old policy of the Empire, the policy already seven hundred years old,
+was had recourse to; the barbarians were granted settlement,
+inheritance, marriage, and partnership with the Lords of the Villae;
+their chief was permitted to hold local government, to tax and to levy
+men as the administrator of the whole province; but there followed
+something which wherever else the experiment had been tried had not
+followed: something of a new race arose. In Burgundy, in the northeast,
+in Visigothic Aquitaine the slight admixture of foreign blood had not
+changed the people, it was absorbed; the slight admixture of
+Scandinavian blood, coming so much later, in a time so degraded in
+government and therefore so open to natural influence, did change the
+Gallo-Romans of the Second Lyonesse. Few as the newcomers may have been
+in number, the new element transformed the mass, and when a century had
+permitted the union to work and settle, the great soldiers who founded
+us appeared. The Norman lords ordered, surveyed, codified, and ruled.
+They let Europe into England, they organized Sicily, they confirmed the
+New Papacy, they were the framework of the Crusades.
+
+The phenomenon was brief. It lasted little more than a hundred years,
+but it transformed Europe and launched the Middle Ages. When it had
+passed, Normandy stood confirmed for centuries (and is still confirmed)
+in a character of its own. No longer adventurous but mercantile, apt, of
+a resisting courage, sober in thought, leaning upon tradition, not
+imperially but domestically strong: the country of Corneille and of
+Malesherbes, a reflection of that spirit in letters; the conservative
+body of to-day--for in our generation that is the mark of Normandy--and,
+in arms, the recruitment to which Napoleon addressed his short and
+famous order that "the Normans that day should do their duty."
+
+
+
+
+The Old Things
+
+
+Those who travel about England for their pleasure, or, for that matter,
+about any part of Western Europe, rightly associate with such travel the
+pleasure of history; for history adds to a man, giving him, as it were,
+a great memory of things--like a human memory, but stretched over a far
+longer space than that of one human life. It makes him, I do not say
+wise and great, but certainly in communion with wisdom and greatness.
+
+It adds also to the soil he treads, for to this it adds meaning. How
+good it is when you come out of Tewkesbury by the Cheltenham road to
+look upon those fields to the left and know that they are not only
+pleasant meadows, but also the place in which a great battle of the
+mediaeval monarchy was decided, or as you stand by that ferry, which is
+not known enough to Englishmen (for it is one of the most beautiful
+things in England), and look back and see Tewkesbury tower, framed
+between tall trees over the level of the Severn, to see also the Abbey
+buildings in your eye of the mind--a great mass of similar stone with
+solid Norman walls, stretching on hugely to the right of the Minster.
+
+All this historical sense and the desire to marry History with Travel is
+very fruitful and nourishing, but there is another interest, allied to
+it, which is very nearly neglected, and which is yet in a way more
+fascinating and more full of meaning. This interest is the interest in
+such things as lie behind recorded history, and have survived into our
+own times. For underneath the general life of Europe, with its splendid
+epic of great Rome turned Christian, crusading, discovering, furnishing
+the springs of the Renaissance, and flowering at last materially into
+this stupendous knowledge of today, the knowledge of all the Arts, the
+power to construct and to do--underneath all that is the foundation on
+which Europe is built, the stem from which Europe springs; and that stem
+is far, far older than any recorded history, and far, far more vital
+than any of the phenomena which recorded history presents.
+
+Recorded history for this island and for Northern France and for the
+Rhine Valley is a matter of two thousand years; for the Western
+Mediterranean of three; but the things of which I speak are to be
+reckoned in tens of thousands of years. Their interest does not lie only
+nor even chiefly in things that have disappeared. It is indeed a great
+pleasure to rummage in the earth and find polished stones wrought by men
+who came so many centuries before us, and of whose blood we certainly
+are; and it is a great pleasure to find, or to guess that we find, under
+Canterbury the piles of a lake or marsh dwelling, proving that
+Canterbury has been there from all time; and that the apparently
+defenceless Valley City was once chosen as an impregnable site, when the
+water-meadows of the Stour were impassable as marsh, or with difficulty
+passable as a shallow lagoon. And it is delightful to stand on the
+earthwork a few miles west and to say to oneself (as one can say with a
+fair certitude), "Here was the British camp defending the south-east;
+here the tenth legion charged." All these are pleasant, but more
+pleasant, I think, to follow the thing where it actually survives.
+
+Consider the track-ways, for instance. How rich is England in these! No
+other part of Europe will afford the traveller so permanent and so
+fascinating a problem. Elsewhere Rome hardened and straightened every
+barbaric trail until the original line and level disappeared; but in
+this distant province of Britain she could only afford just so much
+energy as made them a foothold for her soldiery; and all over England
+you can go, if you choose, foot by foot, along the ancient roads that
+were made by the men of your blood before they had heard of brick or of
+stone or of iron or of written laws.
+
+I wonder that more men do not set out to follow, let us say, the
+Fosse-Way. There it runs right across Western England from the
+south-west to the north-east in a line direct yet sinuous, characters
+which are the very essence of a savage trail. It is a modern road for
+many miles, and you are tramping, let us say, along the Cotswold on a
+hard metalled modern English highway, with milestones and notices from
+the County Council telling you that the culverts will not bear a
+steam-engine, if so be you were to travel on one. Then suddenly this
+road comes up against a cross-road and apparently ceases, making what
+map draughtsmen call a "T"; but right in the same line you see a gate,
+and beyond it a farm lane, and so you follow. You come to a spinney
+where a ride has been cut through by the woodreeve, and it is all in the
+same line. The Fosse-Way turns into a little path, but you are still on
+it; it curves over a marshy brook-valley, picking out the firm land, and
+as you go you see old stones put there heaven knows how many (or how
+few) generations ago--or perhaps yesterday, for the tradition remains,
+and the country-folk strengthen their wet lands as they have
+strengthened them all these thousands of years; you climb up out of that
+depression, you get you over a stile, and there you are again upon a
+lane. You follow that lane, and once more it stops dead. This time there
+is a field before you. No right of way, no trace of a path, nothing but
+grass rounded into those parallel ridges which mark the modern decay of
+the corn lands and pasture--alas!--taking the place of ploughing. Now
+your pleasure comes in casting about for the trail; you look back along
+the line of the Way; you look forward in the same line till you find
+some indication, a boundary between two parishes, perhaps upon your map,
+or two or three quarries set together, or some other sign, and very soon
+you have picked up the line again.
+
+So you go on mile after mile, and as you tread that line you have in the
+horizons that you see, in the very nature and feel of the soil beneath
+your feet, in the skies of England above you, the ancient purpose and
+soul of this Kingdom. Up this same line went the Clans marching when
+they were called Northward to the host; and up this went slow, creaking
+wagons with the lead of the Mendips or the tin of Cornwall or the gold
+of Wales.
+
+And it is still there; it is still used from place to place as a high
+road, it still lives in modern England. There are some of its peers, as
+for instance the Ermine Street, far more continuous, and affording
+problems more rarely; others like the ridgeway of the Berkshire Downs,
+which Rome hardly touched, and of which the last two thousand years has,
+therefore, made hardly anything; you may spend a delightful day piecing
+out exactly where it crossed the Thames, making your guess at it, and
+wondering as you sit there by Streatley Vicarage whether those islands
+did not form a natural weir below which lay the ford.
+
+The roads are the most obvious things. There are many more; for
+instance, thatch. The same laying of the straw in the same manner, with
+the same art, has continued, we may be certain, from a time long before
+the beginning of history. See how in the Fen Land they thatch with
+reeds, and how upon the Chalk Downs with straw from the Lowlands. I
+remember once being told of a record in a manor, which held of the
+Church and which lay upon the southern slope of the Downs, that so much
+was entered for "straw from the Lowlands": then, years afterwards, when
+I had to thatch a Bethlehem in an orchard underneath tall elms--a
+pleasant place to write in, with the noise of bees in the air--the man
+who came to thatch said to me: "We must have straw from the Lowlands;
+this upland straw is no good for thatching." Immediately when I heard
+him say this there was added to me ten thousand years. And I know
+another place in England, far distant from this, where a man said to me
+that if I wished to cross in a winter mist, as I had determined to do,
+Cross-Fell, that great summit of the Pennines, I must watch the drift of
+the snow, for there was no other guide to one's direction in such
+weather. And I remember another man in a little boat in the North Sea,
+as we came towards the Foreland, talking to me of the two tides, and
+telling me how if one caught the tide all the way up to Long Nose and
+then went round it on the end of the flood, one caught a new tide up
+London river, and so made two tides in one day. He spoke with the same
+pleasure that silly men show when they talk about an accumulation of
+money. He felt wealthy and proud from the knowledge, for by this
+knowledge he had two tides in one day. Now knowledge of this sort is
+older than ten thousand years; and so is the knowledge of how birds fly,
+and of how they call, and of how the weather changes with the moon.
+
+Very many things a man might add to the list that I am making. Dew-pans
+are older than the language or the religion; and the finding of water
+with a stick; and the catching of that smooth animal, the mole; and the
+building of flints into mortar, which if one does it in the old way (as
+you may see at Pevensey) the work lasts for ever, but if you do it in
+any new way it does not last ten years; then there is the knowledge of
+planting during the crescent part of the month, but not before the new
+moon shows; and there is the influence of the moon on cider, and to a
+less extent upon the brewing of ale; and talking of ale, the knowledge
+of how ale should be drawn from the brewing just when a man can see his
+face without mist upon the surface of the hot brew. And there is the
+knowledge of how to bank rivers, which is called "throwing the rives" in
+the South, but in the Fen Land by some other name; and how to bank them
+so that they do not silt, but scour themselves. There are these things
+and a thousand others. All are immemorial.
+
+
+
+
+The Battle of Hastings. Related in the Manner of Oxford and Dedicated
+to that University
+
+
+So careless were the French commanders (or more properly the French
+commander, for the rest were cowed by the bullying swagger of William)
+that the night, which should have been devoted to some sort of
+reconnaissance, if not of a preparation of the ground, was devoted to
+nothing more practical than the religious exercises peculiar to
+foreigners.
+
+Their army, as we have seen, was not drawn from any one land, but it was
+in the majority composed of Normans and Bretons; we can therefore
+understand the extravagant superstition which must bear the blame for
+what followed.
+
+Meanwhile, upon the heights above, the English host calmly prepared for
+battle. Fires were lit each in its appointed place, and at these meat
+was cooked under the stern but kindly eyes of the sergeant-majors. These
+also distributed at an appointed price liquor, of which the British
+soldier is never willing to be deprived, and as the hours advanced
+towards morning, the songs in which our adventurous race has ever
+delighted rose from the heights above the Brede.
+
+The morning was misty, as is often the case over damp and marshy lands
+in the month of October, but the inclemency of the weather, or, to speak
+more accurately, the superfluous moisture precipitated from an already
+saturated atmosphere, was of no effect upon those silent and tenacious
+troops of Harold. It was far other with the so-called "Norman" host, who
+were full of forebodings--only too amply to be justified--of the fate
+that lay before them upon the morrow.
+
+It is curious to contrast the quiet skill and sagacity which marked the
+disposition of Harold with the almost childish simplicity of William's
+plan--if plan it may be called.
+
+The Saxon hosts were drawn along the ridge in a position chosen with
+masterly skill. It afforded (as may still be seen) no dead ground for an
+attacking force and little cover. [Footnote: The Rhododendrons on the
+great lawn are modern.] Their left was arranged _en potence_, their
+right was drawn up in echelon. The centre followed the plan usual at
+that time, reposing upon the wings to its right and left and extended.
+The reserves were, of course, posted behind. Cavalry, as at Omdurman,
+played but a slight role in this typically national action and such
+mounted troops as were present seem to have been intermixed with the
+line in the fashion later known, in the jargon of the service, as "The
+Beggar's Quadrille." The Brigade of Guards is not mentioned in any
+record that I can discover, but was probably set by reversed companies
+in a square perpendicular to the main ravine and a little in front of
+the salient angle which appears upon the map at the point marked A.
+
+The terrain can be clearly determined at the present day in spite of the
+changes that have taken place in the intervening years. It is a fairly
+steep slope of hemispherical contour interspersed with low bushes; the
+summit (upon which now stands our lovely English village of Battle and
+the residence of one of those cultured and leisured men who form the
+framework of our commonwealth) was then but a wild heath.
+
+Harold himself could be distinguished in the centre of the line by his
+handsome features, restrained deportment, and unfailing gentlemanly good
+sense as he spoke to staff officer, orderly, and even groom with
+indefatigable skill.
+
+In spite of the determination observable from a great distance upon the
+faces of the tall Saxon line, William with characteristic lack of
+balance opened the action by ordering a charge uphill with cavalry
+alone; it was a piece of tactics absurdly incongruous and one even he
+would never have attempted had he understood the foe that was before
+him, or the fate to which that foe had doomed him.
+
+The lesson dealt him was as immediate as it was severe. The foreigners
+were thrust headlong down the hill, and a private letter tells us how
+the Men of Kent in particular buffeted the Normans about "as though they
+were boys." But even in the heat of this initial success Harold had the
+self-command to order the retirement upon the main position: and with
+troops such as his the order was equivalent to its execution.
+
+This rude blow would have sufficed for any commander less vain than
+William, but he seems to have lost all judgment in a fit of personal
+vanity and to have ordered a second charge which could not but prove as
+futile as the first, delivered as it was up a perfect glacis
+strengthened by epaulements, reverses and countersunk galvon work and
+one whose natural strength was heightened by the stockade which the
+indomitable energy of Harold's troops had perfected in the early hours
+of the morning. Many of the stakes in this, the reader may note with
+pardonable pride, were of English oak--sharpened at the tip.
+
+William's plan (if plan it may be called) was, as we have seen,
+necessarily futile and was foredoomed to failure. But Harold had no
+intention to let the action bear no more fruit than a tactical victory
+upon this particular field. The brain that had designed the exact
+synchrony of Stamford Bridge and the famous march southward from the
+Humber was of that sort which is only found once in many centuries of
+the history of war and which is (it may be said without boasting)
+peculiar to this island.
+
+Another general would have awaited the second charge with its useless
+butchery and still more useless contest for the barren name of victory.
+Not so Harold. Those commanding, cold grey eyes of his swept the line in
+a comprehensive glance, and though no written record of the detail
+remains, he must know little of the character of the man who does not
+understand that from Harold certainly proceeded the order for what
+followed.
+
+The forces at the centre, which he commanded in person, deftly withdrew
+before the futile gallop of William's cavalry, leaving, with that
+coolness which has ever distinguished our troops, the laggards to their
+fate. At the same moment, and with marvellous precision, the left and
+right were withdrawn from the plateau rapidly and as by magic, and the
+old-fashioned tactics of mere impact (which William of Normandy seems
+seriously to have relied on!) were spent and wasted upon the now
+evacuated summit of the hill.
+
+What followed is famous in history.
+
+The cohesion of the Saxon force and the exactitude and coolness with
+which its great operation was performed is of good augury for the future
+of our country. Though it was now thick night, by no set road and with
+no cumbersome machinery of train and rear-guard, the whole of the vast
+assembly masked itself behind the woodlands of the Weald.
+
+The Norman horsemen, bewildered and fatigued, gazed on the many that had
+fallen in defence of the masking position and wondered whether such
+novel happenings were victory or no, but the army whose concentration
+upon the Thames it was William's whole object to prevent, was already
+miles northward, each unit proceeding by exactly co-ordinated routes
+towards London.
+
+There is perhaps no more difficult task set before soldiers than the
+quiet execution of such a manoeuvre after the heat of a heavy action,
+and none have performed it more magnificently than the veteran troop of
+Harold.
+
+When (luckily) all the orders had been finally distributed a great
+tragedy marred the completeness of the day.
+
+Just before the execution of this masterpiece of strategy, and as the
+autumn sun was sinking, the inevitable price which war demands of all
+its darlings was paid.
+
+Harold himself, the artist of the great victory, fell. But we have no
+reason to believe that his loss retarded the retrograding movement in
+any degree. Men who create as Harold created have not their creations
+spoilt by death.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+The shameful history of the close of the campaign is familiar to every
+schoolboy, and the military historian must be pardoned if he deals with
+a purely civilian blunder in a few brief words.
+
+Parliament interfered--as it always does--with what should have been a
+matter for soldiers alone. Intrigues, bribery, or worse (with which the
+military historian has no concern) ruined what had been, in the field,
+one of the principal achievements of the Saxon arms. And William, who
+could not count to hold his own against regular forces and who was
+astonished to find himself free to retreat precipitately on Dover, was
+still more astonished to find himself accepted a few weeks later after
+an aimless march to the west and north by the politicians--or worse--at
+Berkhampstead. He and England were equally astounded to find that a
+broken and defeated invader could actually be accepted by the intriguers
+at Westminster and crowned King of England as the price of a secret
+bargain.
+
+Such was the fruit of as great and successful an effort as ever Saxon
+soldier made: the Battle of Senlac: for such--as I am now free to
+reveal--was the true name of the field of action.
+
+The ineptitude or avarice of politicians had undone the work of
+soldiers, and it is no wonder that the last of Harold's veterans, who
+retired in disgust to impregnable fortresses in Ely, Arthur's Seat, and
+Pudsey, are recorded to have gnashed their teeth and shed tears of
+indignation at the dispatches from the metropolis. At Crecy they were to
+be avenged.
+
+
+
+
+The Roman Roads in Picardy
+
+
+If a man were asked where he would find upon the map the sharpest
+impress of Rome and of the memories of Rome, and where he would most
+easily discover in a few days on foot the foundations upon which our
+civilization still rests, he might, in proportion to his knowledge of
+history and of Europe, be puzzled to reply. He might say that a week
+along the wall from Tyne to Solway would be the answer; or a week in the
+great Roman cities of Provence with their triumphal arches and their
+vast arenas and their Roman stone cropping out everywhere: in old quays,
+in ruined bridges, in the very pavement of the streets they use to-day,
+and in the columns of their living churches.
+
+Now I was surprised to find myself after many years of dabbling in such
+things, furnishing myself the answer in quite a different place. It was
+in Picardy during the late manoeuvres of the French Army that, in the
+intervals of watching those great buzzing flies, the aeroplanes, and in
+the intervals of long tramps after the regiments or of watching the
+massed guns, the necessity for perpetually consulting the map brought
+home to me for the first time this truth--that Picardy is the
+province--or to be more accurate, Picardy with its marches in the Ile de
+France, the edge of Normandy and the edge of Flanders--which retains
+to-day the most vivid impress of Rome. For though the great buildings
+are lacking, and the Roman work, which must here have been mainly of
+brick, has crumbled, and though I can remember nothing upstanding and
+patently of the Empire between the gate of Rheims and the frontier of
+Artois, yet one feature--the Roman road--is here so evident, so
+multiple, and so enduring that it makes up for all the rest.
+
+One discovers the old roads upon the map, one after the other, with a
+sort of surprise. The scheme develops before one as one looks, and
+always when one thinks one has completed the web another and yet another
+straight arrow of a line reveals itself across the page.
+
+The map is a sort of palimpsest. A mass of fine modern roads, a whole
+red blur of lanes and local ways, the big, rare black lines of the
+railway--these are the recent writing, as it were; but underneath the
+whole, more and more apparent and in greater and greater numbers as one
+learns to discover them, are the strict, taut lines which Rome stretched
+over all those plains.
+
+There is something most fascinating in noting them, and discovering them
+one after the other.
+
+For they need discovering. No one of them is still in complete use. The
+greater part must be pieced together from lengths of lanes which turn
+into broad roads, and then suddenly sink again into footpaths, rights of
+way, or green forest rides.
+
+Often, as with our rarer Roman roads in England, all trace of the thing
+disappears under the plough or in the soft crossings of the river
+valleys; one marks them by the straightness of their alignment, by the
+place names which lie upon them (the repeated name Estree, for instance,
+which is like the place name "street" upon the Roman roads of England);
+by the recovery of them after a gap; by the discoveries which local
+archaeology has made.
+
+Different men have different pastimes, and I dare say that most of those
+who read this will wonder that such a search should be a pastime for any
+man, but I confess it is a pastime for me. To discover these things, to
+recreate them, to dig out on foot the base upon which two thousand years
+of history repose, is the most fascinating kind of travel.
+
+And then, the number of them! You may take an oblong of country with
+Maubeuge at one corner, Pontoise at another, Yvetot and some frontier
+town such as Fumes for the other two corners, and in that stretch of
+country a hundred and fifty miles by perhaps two hundred, you can build
+up a scheme of Roman ways almost as complete as the scheme of the great
+roads to-day.
+
+That one which most immediately strikes the eye is the great line which
+darts upon Rouen from Paris.
+
+Twice broken at the crossing of the river valleys, and lost altogether
+in the last twelve miles before the capital of Normandy, it still stands
+on the modern map a great modern road with every aspect of purpose and
+of intention in its going.
+
+From Amiens again they radiate out, these roads, some, like the way to
+Cambray, in use every mile; some, like the old marching road to the sea,
+to the Portus Itius, to Boulogne, a mere lane often wholly lost and
+never used as a great modern road. This was the way along which the
+French feudal cavalry trailed to the disaster of Crecy, and just beyond
+Crecy it goes and loses itself in that exasperating but fascinating
+manner which is the whole charm of Roman roads wherever the hunter finds
+them. You may lay a ruler along this old forgotten track, all the way
+past Domqueur, Novelle (which is called Novelle-en-Chaussee, that is
+Novelle on the paved road), on past Estree (where from the height you
+overlook the battlefield of Crecy), and that ruler so lying on your map
+points right at Boulogne Harbour, thirty odd miles away--and in all
+those thirty odd remaining miles I could not find another yard of it.
+But what an interest! What a hobby to develop! There is nothing like it
+in all the kinds of hunting that have ever been invented for filling up
+the whole of the mind. True, you will get no sauce of danger, but, on
+the other hand, you will hunt for weeks and weeks, and you will come
+back year after year and go on with your hunting, and sometimes you
+actually find--which is more than can be said for hunting some animals
+in the Weald.
+
+How was it lost, this great main road of Europe, this marching road of
+the legions, linking up Gaul and Britain, the way that Hadrian went, and
+the way down which the usurper Constantine III must have come during
+that short adventure of his which lends such a romance to the end of the
+Empire? One cannot conceive why it should have disappeared. It is a
+sunken way down the hillside across the light railway which serves
+Crecy, it gets vaguer and vaguer, for all the world like those ridges
+upon the chalk that mark the Roman roads in England, and then it is
+gone. It leaves you pointing, I say, at that distant harbour, thirty odd
+miles off, but over all those miles it has vanished. The ghost of the
+legends cannot march along it any more. In one place you find a few
+yards of it about three miles south and east of Montreuil. It may be
+that the little lane leading into Estree shows where it crossed the
+valley of the Cauche, but it is all guesswork, and therefore very proper
+to the huntsman.
+
+Then there is that unbroken line by which St. Martin came, I think, when
+he rode into Amiens, and at the gate of the town cut his cloak in two to
+cover the beggar. It drives across country for Roye and on to Noyon, the
+old centre of the Kings. It is a great modern road all the way, and it
+stretches before you mile after mile after mile, until suddenly, without
+explanation and for no reason, it ends sharply, like the life of a man.
+It ends on the slopes of the hill called Choisy, at the edge of the wood
+which is there. And seek as you will, you will never find it again.
+
+From that road also, near Amiens, branches out another, whose object was
+St. Quentin, first as a great high road, lost in the valley of the
+Somme, a lesser road again, still in one strict alignment, it reaches on
+to within a mile of Vermand, and there it stops dead. I do not think
+that between Vermand and St. Quentin you will find it. Go out
+north-westward from Vermand and walk perhaps five miles, or seven: there
+is no trace of a road, only the rare country lanes winding in and out,
+and the open plough of the rolling land. But continue by your compass so
+and you will come (suddenly again and with no apparent reason for its
+abrupt origin) upon the dead straight line that ran from the capital of
+the Nervii, three days' march and more, and pointing all the time
+straight at Vermand.
+
+And so it is throughout the province and its neighbourhood. Here and
+there, as at Bavai, a great capital has decayed. Here and there (but
+more rarely), a town wholly new has sprung up since the Romans, but the
+plan of the country is the same as that which they laid down, and the
+roads as you discover them, mark it out and establish it. The armies
+that you see marching to-day in their manoeuvres follow for half a
+morning the line which was taken by the Legions.
+
+
+
+
+The Reward of Letters
+
+
+It has often been remarked that while all countries in the world possess
+some sort of literature, as Iceland her Sagas, England her daily papers,
+France her prose writers and dramatists, and even Prussia her railway
+guides, one nation and one alone, the Empire of Monomotopa, is utterly
+innocent of this embellishment or frill.
+
+No traveller records the existence of any Monomotopan quill-driver; no
+modern visitor to that delightful island has come across a
+_litterateur_ whether in the worse or in the best hotels; and such
+reading as the inhabitants enjoy is entirely confined to works imported
+by large steamers from the neighbouring Antarctic Continent.
+
+The causes of this singular and happy state of affairs were unknown
+(since the common histories did not mention them) until the recent
+discovery by Mr. Paley, the chief authority upon Monomotopan hieratic
+script, of a very ancient inscription which clearly sets forth the whole
+business.
+
+It seems that an Emperor of Monomotopa, whose date can be accurately
+fixed by internal evidence to lie after the universal deluge and before
+the building of the Pyramid of Cheops, was, upon his accession to the
+throne, particularly concerned with the just repartition of taxes among
+his beloved subjects.
+
+It would seem (if we are to trust the inscription) that in a past still
+more remote the taxes were so light that even the richest men would meet
+them promptly and without complaining, but this was at a period when the
+enemies of Monomotopa were at once distant and actively engaged in
+quarrelling among themselves. With sickening treachery these distant
+rival nations had determined to produce wealth and to live in amity, so
+that it was incumbent upon the Monomotopans not only to build ships, but
+actually to provide an army, and at last (what broke the camel's back)
+to establish fortifications of a very useless but expensive sort upon a
+dozen points of their Imperial coast.
+
+Under the increasing strain the old fiscal system broke down. The poor
+were clearly embarrassed, as might be seen in their emaciated visages
+and from the terrible condition of their boots. The rich had reached the
+point after which it was inconvenient to them to pay any more. The
+middle classes were spending the greater part of their time in devising
+methods by which the exorbitant and intempestive demands of the
+collectors could be either evaded or, more rarely, complied with. In a
+word, a new and juster system of taxation was an imperative need, and
+the Emperor, who had just ascended the throne at the age of eighteen,
+and whom a sort of greenness had preserved from the iniquities of this
+world, was determined to effect the great reform.
+
+With the advice of his Ministers (all of whom had had considerable
+experience in the handling of money), the Emperor at last determined
+that each man and woman should pay to the State one-tenth and no more of
+the wealth which he or she produced; those who produced nothing it was
+but common justice and reason to exempt, and the effect of this tardy
+act of justice upon the very rich was observed in the sudden increase of
+the death-rate from all those diseases that are the peculiar product of
+luxury and evil living. Paupers also, the unemployed, cripples,
+imbeciles, deaf mutes, and the clergy escaped under this beneficent and
+equable statute, and we may sum up the whole policy by saying that never
+was a law acclaimed with so much happy bewilderment nor subject to less
+expressed criticism than this.
+
+It was, moreover, easy to estimate in this new fashion the total revenue
+of the State, since its produce had been accurately set down by
+statisticians of the utmost eminence, and one of these diverse documents
+had been taken for the basis of the new fiscal regime.
+
+In practice also the collection was easy. Overseers would attend the
+harvest with large carts, prong the tenth turnip, hoick up the tenth
+sheaf of wheat, bucket out the tenth gallon of ale, and so forth. In the
+markets every tenth animal was removed by Imperial officers, every tenth
+newspaper was impounded as it left the press, and every tenth drink
+about to be consumed in the hostelries of the Empire was, after a
+simulacrum of proffering it, suddenly removed by the waiter and poured
+into a receptacle, the keys of which were very jealously guarded.
+
+It was the same with the liberal professions: of the fee received by a
+barrister in the Criminal Courts a tenth was regularly demanded at the
+door when the verdict had been given and the prisoner whom he had
+defended passed out to execution. The tenth knock-out in the prize ring
+received by the professional pugilist was followed by the immediate
+sequestration of his fee for that particular encounter, and the tenth
+aria vibrating from the lips of a prima donna was either compounded for
+at a certain rate or taken in kind by the official who attended at every
+performance of grand opera.
+
+One form of wealth alone puzzled the beneficent monarch and his
+Napoleonic advisers, and this was the production (for it then existed)
+of literary matter.
+
+At first this seemed as simple to tax as any one of the other numerous
+activities upon which the Emperor's loyal and loving subjects were
+engaged. A brief examination of the customs of the trade, conducted by
+an army of officials who penetrated into the very dens and attics in
+which Letters are evolved, reported that the method of payment was by
+the measurement of a number of words.
+
+"It is, your Majesty," wrote the permanent official of the department in
+his minute, "the practice of those who charitably employ this sort of
+person to pay them in classes by the thousand words; thus one man gets
+one sequin a thousand, another two byzants, a third as much as a ducat,
+while some who have singularly attracted the notice of the public can
+command ten, twenty, nay forty scutcheons, and in some very exceptional
+cases a thousand words command one of those beautiful pieces of stiff
+paper which your Majesty in his bountiful provision tenders to his
+dutiful subjects for acceptance as metal under diverse penalties. The
+just taxation of these fellows can therefore be easily achieved if your
+Majesty, in the exercise of his almost superhuman wisdom, will but add a
+schedule to the Finance Act in which there shall be set down fifteen or
+twenty classes of writers, with their price per thousand words, and a
+compulsory registration of each class, enforced by the rude hand of the
+police."
+
+The Emperor of Monomotopa immediately nominated a Royal Commission
+(unpaid), among whose sons, nephews, and private friends the salaried
+posts connected with the work were distributed. This Commission reported
+by a majority of one ere two years had elapsed. The schedule was
+designed, and such _litterateurs_ as had not in the interval fled
+the country were registered, while a further enactment strictly
+forbidding their employers to make payment upon any other system
+completed the scheme.
+
+But, alas! so full of low cunning and dirty dodges is this kind of man
+(I mean what we call authors) that very soon after the promulgation of
+the new law a marked deterioration in the quality of Monomotopan letters
+was apparent upon every side!
+
+The citizen opening his morning paper would be astonished to find the
+leading article consist of nothing more original than a portion of the
+sacred Scriptures. A novel bought to ease the tedium of a journey would
+consist of long catalogues for the most part, and when it came to
+descriptions of scenery would fall into the most minute and detailed
+category of every conceivable feature of the landscape. Some even took
+advantage of the new regulation so far as to repeat one single word an
+interminable number of times, while it was remarked with shame by the
+Ministers of Religion that the morals of their literary friends
+permitted them only to use words of one syllable, and those of the
+shortest kind. And this they said was the only true and original
+Monomotopan dialect.
+
+Such was the public inconvenience that next year a sharper and much more
+drastic law was passed, by which it was laid down that every literary
+composition should make sense within the meaning of the Act, and should
+be original so far as the reading of the judge appointed for the trial
+of the case extended. But though after the first few executions this law
+was generally observed, the nasty fellows affected by it managed to
+evade it in spirit, for by the use of obscure terms, of words drawn from
+dead languages, and of bold metaphor transferred from one art to
+another, they would deliberately invite prosecution, and then in the
+witness-box make fools of those plain men, the judge and jury, by
+showing that this apparently meaningless claptrap could, with sufficient
+ingenuity, be made to yield some sort of sense, and during this period
+no art critic was put to death.
+
+Driven to desperation, the Emperor changed the whole basis of the
+Remuneration of Literary Labour, and ordered that it should be by the
+length of the prose or poetry measured in inches.
+
+This reform, however, did but add to the confusion, for while the men of
+the pen wrote their works entirely in short dialogue, asterisks, and
+blanks, the publishers, who were now thoroughly organized, printed the
+same in smaller and smaller type, in order to avoid the consequences of
+the law.
+
+At this last piece of insolence the Emperor's mind was quickly decided.
+Arresting one night not only all those who had ever written, but all
+those who had even boasted of letters, or who were so much as suspected
+by their relatives of secretly indulging in them, he turned the whole
+two million into a large but enclosed area, and (desiring to kill two
+birds with one stone) offered the ensuing spectacle as an amusement to
+the more sober and respectable sections of the community.
+
+It is well known that the profession of letters breeds in its followers
+an undying hatred of each against his fellows. The public were therefore
+entertained for a whole day with the pleasing sight of a violent but
+quite disordered battle, in which each of the wretched prisoners seemed
+animated by no desire but the destruction of as many as possible of his
+hated rivals, until at last every soul of these detestable creatures had
+left its puny body and the State was rid of all.
+
+A law which carried to the universities the rule of the primary
+schools--to wit, that men should be taught to read but not to
+write--completed the good work. And there was peace.
+
+
+
+
+The Eye-Openers
+
+
+Without any doubt whatsoever, the one characteristic of the towns is
+the lack of reality in the impressions of the many: now we live in
+towns: and posterity will be astounded at us! It isn't only that we get
+our impressions for the most part as imaginary pictures called up by
+printer's ink--that would be bad enough; but by some curious perversion
+of the modern mind, printer's ink ends by actually preventing one from
+seeing things that are there; and sometimes, when one says to another
+who has not travelled, "Travel!" one wonders whether, after all, if he
+does travel, he will see the things before his eyes? If he does, he will
+find a new world; and there is more to be discovered in this fashion
+to-day than ever there was.
+
+I have sometimes wished that every Anglo-Saxon who from these shores has
+sailed and seen for the first time the other Anglo-Saxons in New York or
+Melbourne, would write in quite a short letter what he really felt.
+Ninety-nine times out of a hundred men only write what they have read
+before they started, just as Rousseau in an eighteenth-century village
+believed that every English yokel could vote and that his vote conveyed
+a high initiative, making and unmaking the policy of the State; or just
+as people, hearing that the birth-rate of France is low, travel in that
+country and say they can see no children--though they would hardly say
+it about Sussex or Cumberland where the birth-rate is lower still.
+
+What travel does in the way of pleasure (the providing of new and fresh
+sensations, and the expansion of experience), that it ought to do in the
+way of knowledge. It ought to and it does, with the wise, provide a
+complete course of unlearning the wretched tags with which the sham
+culture of our great towns has filled us. For instance, of Barbary--the
+lions do not live in deserts; they live in woods. The peasants of
+Barbary are not Semitic in appearance or in character; Barbary is full
+to the eye, not of Arab and Oriental buildings--they are not
+striking--but of great Roman monuments: they are altogether the most
+important things in the place. Barbary is not hot, as a whole: most of
+Barbary is extremely cold between November and March. The inhabitants of
+Barbary do not like a wild life, they are extremely fond of what
+civilization can give them, such as _creme de menthe_, rifles, good
+waterworks, maps, and railways: only they would like to have these
+things without the bother of strict laws and of the police, and so
+forth. Travel in Barbary with seeing eyes and you find out all this new
+truth.
+
+Now it took the French forty years and more before each of these plain
+facts (and I have only cited half a dozen out of as many hundred) got
+into their letters and their print: they have not yet got into the
+letters and the print of other nations. But an honest man travelling in
+Barbary on his own account would pick up every one of these truths in
+two or three days, except the one about the lions; to pick up that truth
+you must go to the very edge of the country, for the lion is a shy beast
+and withdraws from men.
+
+The wise man who really wants to see things as they are and to
+understand them, does not say: "Here I am on the burning soil of
+Africa." He says: "Here I am stuck in a snowdrift and the train twelve
+hours late"--as it was (with me in it) near Setif in January, 1905. He
+does not say as he looks on the peasant at his plough outside Batna:
+"Observe yon Semite!" He says: "That man's face is exactly like the face
+of a dark Sussex peasant, only a little leaner." He does not say: "See
+those wild sons of the desert! How they must hate the new artificial
+world around them!" Contrariwise, he says: "See those four Mohammedans
+playing cards with a French pack of cards and drinking liqueurs in the
+cafe! See, they have ordered more liqueurs!" He does not say: "How
+strange and terrible a thing the railway must be to them!" He says: "I
+wish I was rich enough to travel first, for the natives pouring in and
+out of this third-class carriage, jabbering like monkeys, and treading
+on my feet, disturb my tranquillity. Some hundreds must have got in and
+out during the last fifty miles!"
+
+In other words, the wise man has permitted eye-openers to rain upon him
+their full, beneficent, and sacramental influence. And if a man in
+travelling will always maintain his mind ready for what he really sees
+and hears, he will become a whole nest of Columbuses discovering a
+perfectly interminable series of new worlds.
+
+A man can only talk of what he himself knows. Let me give further
+examples. I had always heard until I visited the Pyrenees how French
+civilization (especially in the matter of roads, motors, and things like
+that) went up to the "Spanish" frontier and then stopped dead. It
+doesn't. The change is at the Aragonese frontier. On the Basque third of
+the frontier the people are just as active and fond of wealth, and of
+scraping of stone and of cleanliness, and of drawing straight lines, to
+the north as to the south of it. They are all one people, as
+industrious, as thrifty, and as prosperous as the Scots. So are the
+Catalans one people, and you get much the same sort of advantages and
+disadvantages (apart from the effect of government) with the Catalans to
+the north as with the Catalans to the south of the border.
+
+So with religion. I had thought to find the Spanish churches crowded. I
+found just the contrary. It was the French churches that were crowded,
+not the Spanish; and the difference between the truth--what one really
+sees and hears--and the printed legend happens to be very subtly
+illustrated in this case of religion. The French have inherited (and are
+by this time used to, and have, perhaps grown fond of) a big religious
+debate. Those who side with the national religion and tradition
+emphasize their opinion in every possible way--so do their opponents.
+You pick up two newspapers from Toulouse, for instance, and it is quite
+on the cards that the leading article of each will be a disquisition
+upon the philosophy of religion, the one, the "Depeche" of Toulouse,
+militantly, and often solently atheist; the other as militantly
+Catholic.
+
+You don't get that in Pamplona, and you don't get it in Saragossa. What
+you get there is a profound dislike of being interfered with, ancient
+and lazy customs, wealth retained by the chapters, the monasteries, and
+the colleges, and with all this a curious, all-pervading indifference.
+
+One might end this little train of thought by considering a converse
+test of what the eye-opener is in travel; and that test is to talk to
+foreigners when they first come to England and see how they tend to
+discover in England what they have read of at home instead of what they
+really see. There have been very few fogs in London of late, but your
+foreigner nearly always finds London foggy. Kent does not show along its
+main railway line the evidence of agricultural depression: it is like a
+garden. Yet, in a very careful and thorough French book just published
+by a French traveller, his bird's-eye view of the country as he went
+through Kent just after landing would make you think the place a desert;
+he seems to have thought the hedges a sign of agricultural decay. The
+same foreigner will discover a plebeian character in the Commons and an
+aristocratic one in the House of Lords, though he shall have heard but
+four speeches in each, and though every one of the eight speeches shall
+have been delivered by members of one family group closely intermarried,
+wealthy, titled, and perhaps (who knows?) of some lineage as well.
+
+The moral is that one should tell the truth to oneself, and look out for
+it outside one. It is quite as novel and as entertaining as the
+discovery of the North Pole--or, in case that has come off (as some
+believe), the discovery of the South Pole.
+
+
+
+
+The Public
+
+
+I notice a very curious thing in the actions particularly of business
+men to-day, and of other men also, which is the projection outward from
+their own inward minds of something which is called "The Public"--and
+which is not there.
+
+I do not mean that a business man is wrong when he says that "the public
+will demand" such and such an article, and on producing the article
+finds it sells widely; he is obviously and demonstrably right in his use
+of the word "public" in such a connexion. Nor is a man wrong or subject
+to illusion when he says, "The public have taken to cinematograph
+shows," or "The public were greatly moved when the Hull fishermen were
+shot at by the Russian fleet in the North Sea." What I mean is "The
+Public" as an excuse or scapegoat; the Public as a menace; the Public as
+a butt. That Public simply does not exist.
+
+For instance, the publisher will say, as though he were talking of some
+monster, "The Public will not buy Jinks's work. It is first-class work,
+so it is too good for the Public." He is quite right in his statement of
+fact. Of the very small proportion of our people who read only a
+fraction buy books, and of the fraction that buy books very few indeed
+buy Jinks's. Jinks has a very pleasant up-and-down style. He loves to
+use funny words dragged from the tomb, and he has delicate little
+emotions. Yet hardly anybody will buy him--so the publisher is quite
+right in one sense when he says, "The Public" won't buy Jinks. But where
+he is quite wrong and suffering from a gross illusion is in the motive
+and the manner of his saying it. He talks of "The Public" as something
+gravely to blame and yet irredeemably stupid. He talks of it as
+something quite external to himself, almost as something which he has
+never personally come across. He talks of it as though it were a Mammoth
+or an Eskimo. Now, if that publisher would wander for a moment into the
+world of realities he would perceive his illusion. Modern men do not
+like realities, and do not usually know the way to come in contact with
+them. I will tell the publisher how to do so in this case.
+
+Let him consider what books he buys himself, what books his wife buys;
+what books his eldest son, his grandmother, his Aunt Jane, his old
+father, his butler (if he runs to one), his most intimate friend, and
+his curate buy. He will find that not one of these people buys Jinks.
+Most of them will talk Jinks, and if Jinks writes a play, however dull,
+they will probably go and see it once; but they draw the line at buying
+Jinks's books--and I don't blame them.
+
+The moral is very simple. You yourselves are "The Public," and if you
+will watch your own habits you will find that the economic explanation
+of a hundred things becomes quite clear.
+
+I have seen the same thing in the offices of a newspaper. Some simple
+truth of commanding interest to this country, involving no attack upon
+any rich man, and therefore not dangerous under our laws, comes up for
+printing. It is discussed in the editor's room. The editor says, "Yes,
+of course, we know it is true, and of course it is important, but the
+Public would not stand it."
+
+I remember one newspaper office of my youth in which the Public was
+visualized as a long file of people streaming into a Wesleyan chapel,
+and another in which the Public was supposed to be made up without
+exception of retired officers and maiden ladies, every one of whom was a
+communicant of the English Established Church, every one of good birth,
+and yet every one devoid of culture.
+
+Without the least doubt each of these absurd symbols haunted the brain
+of each of the editors in question. The editor of the first paper would
+print at wearisome length accounts of obscure Catholic clerical scandals
+on the Continent, and would sweat with alarm if his sub-editors had
+admitted a telegram concerning the trial of some fraudulent Protestant
+missionary or other in China.
+
+Meanwhile his rather dull paper was being bought by you and me, and bank
+clerks and foreign tourists, and doctors, and publicans, and brokers,
+Catholics, Protestants, atheists, "peculiar people," and every kind of
+man for many reasons--because it had the best social statistics, because
+it had a very good dramatic critic, because they had got into the habit
+and couldn't stop, because it came nearest to hand on the bookstall. Of
+a hundred readers, ninety-nine skipped the clerical scandal and either
+chuckled over the fraudulent missionary or were bored by him and went on
+to the gambling news from the Stock Exchange. But the type for whom all
+that paper was produced, the menacing god or demon who was supposed to
+forbid publication of certain news in it, did not exist.
+
+So it was with the second paper, but with this difference, that the
+editor was right about the social position of those who read his sheet,
+but quite wrong about the opinions and emotions of people in that social
+position.
+
+It was all the more astonishing from the fact that the editor was born
+in that very class himself and perpetually mixed with it. No one perhaps
+read "The Stodge" (for under this device would I veil the true name of
+the organ) more carefully than those retired officers of either service
+who are to be found in what are called our "residential" towns. The
+editor was himself the son of a colonel of guns who had settled down in
+a Midland watering-place. He ought to have known that world, and he did
+know that world, but he kept his illusion of his Public quite apart from
+his experience of realities.
+
+Your retired officer (to take his particular section of this particular
+paper's audience) is nearly always a man with a hobby, and usually a
+good scientific or literary hobby at that. He writes many of our best
+books demanding research. He takes an active part in public work which
+requires statistical study. He is always a travelled man, and nearly
+always a well-read man. The broadest and the most complete questioning
+and turning and returning of the most fundamental subjects--religion,
+foreign policy, and domestic economics--are quite familiar to him. But
+the editor was not selecting news for that real man; he was selecting
+news for an imaginary retired officer of inconceivable stupidity and
+ignorance, redeemed by a childlike simplicity. If a book came in, for
+instance, on biology, and there was a chance of having it reviewed by
+one of the first biologists of the day, he would say: "Oh, our Public
+won't stand evolution," and he would trot out his imaginary retired
+officer as though he were a mule.
+
+Artists, by which I mean painters, and more especially art critics, sin
+in this respect. They say: "The public wants a picture to tell a story,"
+and they say it with a sneer. Well, the public does want a picture to
+tell a story, because you and I want a picture to tell a story. Sorry.
+But so it is. The art critic himself wants it to tell a story, and so
+does the artist. Each would rather die than admit it, but if you set
+either walking, with no one to watch him, down a row of pictures you
+would see him looking at one picture after another with that expression
+of interest which only comes on a human face when it is following a
+human relation. A mere splash of colour would bore him; still more a
+mere medley of black and white. The story may have a very simple plot;
+it may be no more than an old woman sitting on a chair, or a landscape,
+but a picture, if a man can look at it all, tells a story right enough.
+It must interest men, and the less of a story it tells the less it will
+interest men. A good landscape tells so vivid a story that children (who
+are unspoilt) actually transfer themselves into such a landscape, walk
+about in it, and have adventures in it.
+
+They make another complaint against the public, that it desires painting
+to be lifelike. Of course it does! The statement is accurate, but the
+complaint is based on an illusion. It is you and I and all the world
+that want painting to imitate its object. There is a wonderful picture
+in the Glasgow Art Gallery, painted by someone a long time ago, in which
+a man is represented in a steel cuirass with a fur tippet over it, and
+the whole point of that picture is that the fur looks like fur and the
+steel looks like steel. I never met a critic yet who was so bold as to
+say that picture was a bad picture. It is one of the best pictures in
+the world; but its whole point is the liveliness of the steel and of the
+fur.
+
+Finally, there is one proper test to prove that all this jargon about
+"The Public" is nonsense, which is that it is altogether modern. Who
+quarrelled with the Public in the old days when men lived a healthy
+corporate life, and painted, wrote, or sang for the applause of their
+fellows?
+
+If you still suffer from the illusion after reading these magisterial
+lines of mine, why, there is a drastic way to cure yourself, which is to
+go for a soldier; take the shilling and live in a barracks for a year;
+then buy yourself out. You will never despise the public again. And
+perhaps a better way still is to go round the Horn before the mast. But
+take care that your friends shall send you enough money to Valparaiso
+for your return journey to be made in some comfort; I would not wish my
+worst enemy to go back the way he came.
+
+
+
+
+On Entries
+
+
+I am always planning in my mind new kinds of guide books. Or, rather,
+new features in guide books.
+
+One such new feature which I am sure would be very useful would be an
+indication to the traveller of how he should approach a place.
+
+I would first presuppose him quite free and able to come by rail or by
+water or by road or on foot across the fields, and then I would describe
+how the many places I have seen stand quite differently in the mind
+according to the way in which one approaches them.
+
+The value of travel, to the eye at least, lies in its presentation of
+clear and permanent impressions, and these I think (though some would
+quarrel with me for saying it) are usually instantaneous. It is the
+first sharp vision of an unknown town, the first immediate vision of a
+range of hills, that remains for ever and is fruitful of joy within the
+mind, or, at least, that is one and perhaps the chief of the fruits of
+travel.
+
+I remember once, for instance, waking from a dead sleep in a train (for
+I was very tired) and finding it to be evening. What woke me was the
+sudden stopping of the train. It was in Italy. A man in the carriage
+said to me that there was some sort of accident and that we should be
+waiting a while. The people got out and walked about by the side of the
+track. I also got out of the carriage and took the air, and when I so
+stepped out into the cool of that summer evening I was amazed at the
+loneliness and tragedy of the place.
+
+There were no houses about me that I could see save one little place
+built for the railway men. There was no cultivation either.
+
+Close before me began a sort of swamp with reeds which hardly moved to
+the air, and this gradually merged into a sheet of water above and
+beyond which were hills, barren and not very high, which took the last
+of the daylight, for they looked both southward and to the west. The
+more I watched the extraordinary and absolute scene the less I heard of
+the low voices about me, and indeed a sort of positive silence seemed to
+clothe the darkening landscape. It was full of something quite gone
+down, and one had the impression that it would never be disturbed.
+
+As the light lessened, the hills darkened, the sky took on one broad and
+tender colour, the sheet of water gleamed quite white, and the reeds
+stood up like solid shadows against it. I wish I could express in words
+the impression of recollection and of savage mourning which all that
+landscape imposed, but from that impression I was recalled and startled
+by the guard, who came along telling us that things were righted and
+that the train would start again; soon we were in our places and the
+rapid movement isolated for me the memory of a singularly vivid scene. I
+thought the place must have a name, and I asked a neighbour in the
+carriage what it was called; he told me it was called Lake Trasimene.
+
+Now I do not say that this tragic site is to be visited thus. It was but
+an accident, though an accident for which I am most grateful to my fate.
+But what I have said here illustrates my meaning that the manner of
+one's approach to any place in travel makes all the difference.
+
+Thus one may note how very different is Europe seen from the water than
+seen from any other opportunity for travel. So many of the great
+cathedrals were built to dominate men who should watch them from the
+wharves of the mediaeval towns, but I think it is almost a rule if you
+have leisure and can take your choice to choose this kind of entry to
+them. Amiens is quite a different thing seen from the river below it to
+the north and east from what it is seen by a gradual approach along the
+street of a modern town. The roofs climb up at it, and it stands
+enthroned. So Chartres seen from the little Eure; but the Eure is so
+small a river that he would be a bold man who would travel up it all
+this way. Nevertheless it is a good piece of travel, and anyone who will
+undertake it will see Louviers and will pass Anet, where the greatest
+work of the Renaissance once stood, and will go through lonely but rich
+pastures until at last he gets to Chartres by the right gate. Thence he
+will see something astonishing for so flat a region as the Beauce. The
+great church seems mountainous upon a mountain. Its apse completes the
+unclimbable steepness of the hill and its buttresses follow the lines of
+the fall of it. But if you do not come in by the river, at least come in
+by the Orleans road. I suppose that nine people out of ten, even to-day
+when the roads are in proper use again, come into Chartres by that
+northern railway entry, which is for all the world like coming into a
+great house by a big, neglected backyard.
+
+Then if ever you have business that takes you to Bayonne, come in by
+river and from the sea, and how well you will understand the little town
+and its lovely northern Gothic!
+
+Some of the great churches all the world knows must be seen from the
+water, and most of the world so sees them. Ely is one, Cologne is
+another, but how many people have looked right up at Durham as at a
+cliff from that gorge below, or how many have seen the height of Albi
+from the Tarn?
+
+As for famous cities with their walls, there is no doubt that a man
+should approach them by the chief high road, which once linked them with
+their capital, or with their nearest port, or with Rome--and that
+although this kind of entry is nowadays often marred by ugly suburbs.
+You will get much your finest sight of Segovia as you come in by the
+road from the Guadarama and from Madrid. It is from that point that you
+were meant to see the town, and you will get much your best grip on
+Carcassonne, old Carcassonne, if you come in by the road from Toulouse
+at morning as you were meant to come, and so Coucy should be approached
+by that royal road from Soissons and from the south, while as for Laon
+(the most famous of the hill towns), come to it from the east, for it
+looks eastward, and its lords were Eastern lords.
+
+Ranges of hills, I think, are never best first seen from railways.
+Indeed, I can remember no great sight of hills so seen, not even the
+Alps. A railway must of necessity follow the floor of the valley and
+tunnel and creep round the shoulders of the bulwarks. There is perhaps
+one exception to this rule, which is the sight of the Pyrenees from the
+train as one comes into Tarbes. It is a wise thing if you are visiting
+those hills to come into Tarbes by night and sleep there, and then next
+morning the train upon its way to Pau unfolds you all the wall of the
+mountains. But this is an accident. It is because the railway runs upon
+a sort of high platform that you see the mountains so. With all other
+hills that I remember it is best to have them burst suddenly upon you
+from the top of some pass lifted high above the level and coming, let us
+say, to a height half their own. Certainly the Bernese Oberland is more
+wonderful caught in one moment from the Jura than introduced in any
+other way, and the snows on Atlas over the desert seem like part of the
+sky when they come upon one after climbing the red rocks of the high
+plateaux and you see them shining over the salt marshes. The Vosges you
+cannot thus see from a half-height; there is no platform, and that is
+perhaps why the Vosges have not impressed travellers as they should. But
+you can so watch the grand chain of old volcanoes which are the rampart
+of Auvergne. You can stand upon the high wooden ridge of Foreze and see
+them take the morning across the mists and the flat of the Limagne,
+where the Gauls fought Caesar. Further south from the high table of the
+Velay you can see the steep backward escarpment of the Cevennes, inky
+blue, desperately blue, blue like nothing else on earth except the
+mountains in those painters of North Italy, of the parts north and east
+of Venice, the name of whose school escapes me--or, rather, I never knew
+it.
+
+Now, as for towns that live in a hollow, it is great fun to come upon
+them from above. They are not used to being thus taken at a disadvantage
+and they are both surprised and surprising. There are many towns in
+holes and trenches of Europe which you can thus play "peep-bo" with if
+you will come at them walking. By train they will mean nothing to you.
+You will probably come upon them out of a long, shrieking tunnel, and by
+the high road they mean little more, for the high road will follow the
+vale. But if you come upon them from over their guardian cliffs and
+scars you catch them unawares, and this is a good way of approaching
+them, for you master them, as it were, and spy them out before you enter
+in. You can act thus with Grenoble and with many a town on the Meuse,
+and particularly with Aubusson, which lies in the depths of so dreadful
+a trench that I could wonder how man ever dreamt of living and building
+there.
+
+The most difficult of all places on which to advise, I think, would be
+the very great cities, the capitals. They seem to have to-day no noble
+entries and no proper approach. Perhaps we shall only deal with them
+justly when we can circle down to them through the air and see their
+vast activity splashed over the plain. Anyhow, there is no proper way of
+entering them now that I know of. Berlin is not worth entering at all.
+Rome (a man told me once) could be entered by some particular road over
+the Janiculum, I think--which also, if I remember right, was the way
+that Shelley came--but I despair of Paris, and certainly of London. I
+cannot even recall an entry for Brussels, though Brussels is a
+monumental city with great rewards for those who love the combination of
+building and hills.
+
+Perhaps, after all, the happiest entries of all and the most easy are
+those of our many market towns, small and not swollen in Britain and in
+Northern Gaul and in the Netherlands and in the Valley of the Rhine.
+These hardly ever fail us, and we come upon them in our travels as they
+desire that we should come, and we know them properly as things should
+properly be known--that is, from the beginning.
+
+
+
+
+Companions of Travel
+
+
+I write of travelling companions in general, and not in particular,
+making of them a composite photograph, as it were, and finding what they
+have in common and what is their type; and in the first place I find
+them to be chance men. For there are some people who cannot travel
+without a set companion who goes with them from Charing Cross all over
+the world and back to Charing Cross again. And there is a pathos in
+this: as Balzac said of marriage, "What a commentary on human life, that
+human beings must associate to endure it." So it is with many who cannot
+endure to travel alone: and some will positively advertise for another
+to go with them.
+
+In a glade of the Sierra Nevada, which, for awful and, as it were,
+permanent beauty seemed not to be of this world, I came upon a man
+slowly driving along the trail a ramshackle cart, in which were a few
+chairs and tables and bedding. He had a long grey beard and wild eyes;
+he was old, and very small like a gnome, but he had not the gnome's
+good-humour. I asked him where he was going, and I slowed down, so as to
+keep pace with his ridiculous horse. For some time he would not answer
+me, and then he said, "Out of this." He added, "I am tired of it." And
+when I asked him, "Of what?" his only answer was an old-fashioned oath.
+But from further complaints which he made I gathered that what he was
+tired of was clearing forests, digging ground, paying debts, and in
+general living upon this unhappy earth. He did not like me very much,
+and though I would willingly have learned more, he would tell me nothing
+further, so when we got to a place where there was a little stream I
+went on and left him.
+
+I have never forgotten the sadness of this man. Where he was going, and
+what he expected to do, or what opportunities he had, I have never
+understood. Though some years after, in quite another place--namely,
+Steyning, in Sussex--I came upon just such another, whose quarrel was
+with the English climate, the rich and the poor, and the whole
+constitution of God's earth. These are the advantages of travel, that
+one meets so many men whom one would otherwise never meet, and that one
+feeds as it were upon the complexity of mankind.
+
+Thus in a village called Encamps, in the depths of Andorra, where no man
+has ever killed another, I found a man with a blue face, who was a
+fossil, the kind of man you would never find in the swelling life of
+Western Europe. He was emancipated, he had studied in Perpignan, over
+and beyond the great hills. He could not see why he should pay taxes to
+support a priest. "The priests" he assured me, "say the most ridiculous
+things. They narrate the most impossible fables. They affirm what cannot
+possibly be true. All that they say is in opposition to science. If I am
+ill, can a priest cure me? No. Can a priest tell me how to build, or how
+to light my house? He is unable to do so. He is a useless and a lying
+mouth, why should I feed him?"
+
+I questioned this man very closely, and discovered that in his view the
+world slowly changed from worse to better, and to accelerate this
+process enlightenment alone was needed. "But what do these brutes," he
+said, alluding to his fellow-countrymen, "know of enlightenment? They do
+not even make roads, because the priests forbid them."
+
+I could write at length upon this man. He was not a Sceptic as you may
+imagine, nor had he adopted the Lucretian form of Epicureanism. Not a
+bit of it. He was a hearty Atheist, with Positivist leanings. I further
+found that he had married a woman older, wealthier, and if possible
+uglier than himself. She kept the inn, and was very kind to him. His
+life would have been quite happy had he not been tortured by the
+monstrous superstitions of others.
+
+Then, again, in the town of Marseilles, only two years ago, I met a man
+who looked well fed, and had a stalwart, square French face, and whose
+politico-economic ideal, though it was not mine, greatly moved me. It
+was just past midnight, and I was throwing little stones into the old
+Greek harbour, the stench and the glory of which are nearly three
+thousand years old; I was to be off at dawn upon a tramp steamer, and I
+had so determined to pass the few hours of darkness.
+
+I was throwing pebbles into the water, I say, and thinking about
+Ulysses, when this man came slouching up, with his hands in the pockets
+of his enormous corduroy trousers, and, looking at me with some contempt
+from above (for he was standing, I was sitting), he began to converse
+with me. We talked first of ships, then of heat and cold, and so on to
+wealth and poverty; and thus it was I came upon his views, which were
+that there should be a sort of break up, and houses ought to be burned,
+and things smashed, and people killed; and over and above this, it
+should be made plain that no one had a right to govern: not the people,
+because they were always being bamboozled; obviously not the rich; least
+of all, the politicians, to whom he justly applied the most derogatory
+epithets. He waved his arm out in the darkness at the Phoceans, at the
+half-million of Marseilles, and said, "All that should disappear." The
+constructive side of his politico-economic scheme was negative. He was a
+practical man. None of your fine theories for him. One step at a time.
+Let there be a Chambardement--that is, a noisy collapse, and he would
+think about what to do afterwards.
+
+His was not the narrow, deductive mind. He was objective and concrete.
+Believe me or not, he was paid an excellent wage by the municipality to
+prevent people like me, who sit up at night, from doing mischief in the
+harbour. When I had come to an end of his politico-economic scheme--the
+main lines of which were so clear and simple that a child could
+understand them--we fell to talking of the tides, and I told him that in
+my country the sea went up and down. He was no rustic, and would have no
+such commonplace truths. He was well acquainted with the Phenomenon of
+the Tides; it was due to the combined attraction of the sun and of the
+moon. But when I told him I knew places where the tides fell thirty or
+forty feet, we would have had a violent quarrel had I not prudently
+admitted that that was romantic exaggeration, and that five or six was
+the most that one ever saw it move. I avoided the quarrel, but the
+little incident broke up our friendship, and he shuffled away. He did
+not like having his leg pulled.
+
+There are many others I remember. Those I have written about elsewhere I
+am ashamed to recall, as the man at Jedburgh, who first expounded to me
+how one knew all about the fate of the individual soul, and then
+objected to personal questions about his own; the German officer man at
+Aix-la-Chapelle, who had hair the colour of tow, and gave me minute
+details of the method by which England was to be destroyed; a man I met
+upon the Appian Way, who told the most abominable lies; and another man
+who met me outside Oxford station during the Vac. and offered to show me
+the sights of the town for a consideration, which he did, but I would
+not pay him because he was inaccurate, as I easily proved by a few
+searching questions upon the exact site of Bocardo (of which he had
+never heard), and the negative evidence against a Roman origin for the
+site of the city. Moreover, he said that Trinity was St. John's, which
+was rubbish.
+
+Then there was another man who travelled with me from Birmingham,
+pressed certain tracts upon me, and wanted to charge me sixpence each at
+Paddington. But if I were to speak of even these few I should exceed.
+
+
+
+
+On the Sources of Rivers
+
+
+There are certain customs in man the permanence of which gives infinite
+pleasure. When the mood of the schools is against them these customs lie
+in wait beneath the floors of society, but they never die, and when a
+decay in pedantry or in despotism or in any other evil and inhuman
+influence permits them to reappear they reappear.
+
+One of these customs is the religious attachment of man to isolated high
+places, peaks, and single striking hills. On these he must build
+shrines, and though he is a little furtive about it nowadays, yet the
+instinct is there, strong as ever. I have not often come to the top of a
+high hill with another man but I have seen him put a few stones together
+when he got there, or, if he had not the moral courage so to satisfy his
+soul, he would never fail on such an occasion to say something ritual and
+quasi-religious, even if it were only about the view; and another instinct
+of the same sort is the worship of the sources of rivers.
+
+The Iconoclast and the people whose pride it is that their senses are
+dead will see in a river nothing more than so much moisture gathered in
+a narrow place and falling as the mystery of gravitation inclines it.
+Their mood is the mood of that gentleman who despaired and wrote:
+
+ A cloud's a lot of vapour,
+ The sky's a lot of air,
+ And the sea's a lot of water
+ That happens to be there.
+
+You cannot get further down than that. When you have got as far down as
+that all is over. Luckily God still keeps his mysteries going for you,
+and you can't get rid, even in that mood, of the certitude that you
+yourself exist and that things outside of you are outside of you. But
+when you get into that modern mood you do lose the personality of
+everything else, and you forget the sanctity of river heads.
+
+You have lost a great deal when you have forgotten that, and it behoves
+you to recover what you have lost as quickly as possible, which is to be
+done in this way: Visit the source of some famous stream and think about
+it. There was a Scotchman once who discovered the sources of the Nile,
+to the lasting advantage of mankind and the permanent glory of his
+native land. He thought the source of the Nile looked rather like the
+sources of the Till or the Tweed or some such river of Thule. He has
+been ridiculed for saying this, but he was mystically very right. The
+source of the greatest of rivers, since it was sacred to him, reminded
+him of the sacred things of his home.
+
+When I consider the sources of rivers which I have seen, there is not
+one, I think, which I do not remember to have had about it an influence
+of awe. Not only because one could in imaginings see the kingdoms of the
+cities which it was to visit and the way in which it would bind them all
+together in one province and one story, but also simply because it was
+an origin.
+
+The sources of the Rhone are famous: the Rhone comes out of a glacier
+through a sort of ice cave, and if it were not for an enormous hotel
+quite four-square it would be as lonely a place as there is in Europe,
+and as remarkable a beginning for a great river as could anywhere be
+found. Nor, when you come to think of it, does any European river have
+such varied fortunes as the Rhone. It feeds such different religions and
+looks on such diverse landscapes. It makes Geneva and it makes Avignon;
+it changes in colour and in the nature of its going as it goes. It sees
+new products appearing continually on its journey until it comes to
+olives, and it flows past the beginning of human cities, when it
+reflects the huddle of old Arles.
+
+The sources of the Garonne are well known. The Garonne rises by itself
+in a valley from which there is no issue, like the fabled valleys shut
+in by hills on every side. And if it were anything but the Garonne it
+would not be able to escape: it would lie imprisoned there for ever.
+Being the Garonne it tunnels a way for itself right under the High
+Pyrenees and comes out again on the French side. There are some that
+doubt this, but then there are people who would doubt anything.
+
+The sources of the River Arun are not so famous as these two last, and
+it is a good thing, for they are to be found in one of the loneliest
+places within an hour of London that any man can imagine, and if you
+were put down there upon a windy day you would think yourself upon the
+moors. There is nothing whatsoever near you at the beginnings of the
+little sacred stream.
+
+Thames had a source once which was very famous. The water came out
+plainly at a fountain under a bleak wood just west of the Fosse Way,
+under which it ran by a culvert, a culvert at least as old as the
+Romans. But when about a hundred years ago people began to improve the
+world in those parts, they put up a pumping station and they pumped
+Thames dry--since which time its gods have deserted the river.
+
+The sources of the Ribble are in a lonely place up in a corner of the
+hills where everything has strange shapes and where the rocks make one
+think of trolls. The great frozen Whernside stands up above it, and
+Ingleborough Hill, which is like no other hill in England, but like the
+flat-topped Mesas which you have in America, or (as those who have
+visited it tell me) like the flat hills of South Africa; and a little
+way off on the other side is Pen-y-ghent, or words to that effect. The
+little River Ribble rises under such enormous guardianship. It rises
+quite clean and single in the shape of a little spring upon the
+hillside, and too few people know it. The other river that flows east
+while the Ribble flows west is the River Ayr. It rises in a curious way,
+for it imitates the Garonne, and finding itself blocked by limestone
+burrows underneath at a place called Malham Tarn, after which it has no
+more trouble.
+
+The River Severn, the River Wye, and a third unimportant river, or at
+least important only for its beauty (and who would insist on that?) rise
+all close together on the skirts of Plinlimmon, and the smallest of them
+has the most wonderful rising, for it falls through the gorge of Llygnant,
+which looks like, and perhaps is, the deepest cleft in this island, or, at
+any rate, the most unexpected. And a fourth source on the mountain, a tarn
+below its summit, is the source of Rheidol, which has a short but
+adventurous life like Achilles.
+
+There is one source in Europe that is properly dealt with, and where the
+religion due to the sources of rivers has free play, and this is the
+source of the Seine. It comes out upon the northern side of the hills
+which the French call the Hills of Gold, in a country of pasturage and
+forest, very high up above the world and thinly peopled. The River Seine
+appears there in a sort of miraculous manner, pouring out of a grotto,
+and over this grotto the Parisians have built a votive statue; and there
+is yet another of the hundred thousand things that nobody knows.
+
+
+
+
+On Error
+
+
+There is an elusive idea that has floated through the minds of most of
+us as we grew older and learnt more and more things. It is an idea
+extremely difficult to get into set terms. It is an idea very difficult
+to put so that we shall not seem nonsensical; and yet it is a very
+useful idea, and if it could be realized its realization would be of
+very practical value. It is the idea of a Dictionary of Ignorance and
+Error.
+
+On the face of it a definition of the work is impossible. Strictly
+speaking it would be infinite, for human knowledge, however far
+extended, must always be infinitely small compared with all possible
+knowledge, just as any given finite space is infinitely small compared
+with all space.
+
+But that is not the idea which we entertain when we consider this
+possible Dictionary of Ignorance and Error. What we really mean is a
+Dictionary of the sort of Ignorance and the sort of Error which we know
+ourselves to have been guilty of, which we have escaped by special
+experience or learning as time went on, and against which we would warn
+our fellows.
+
+Flaubert, I think, first put it down in words, and said that such an
+encyclopaedia was very urgently needed.
+
+It will never exist, but we all know that it ought to exist. Bits of it
+appear from time to time piecemeal and here and there, as for instance
+in the annotations which modern scholarship attaches to the great text,
+in the printed criticisms to which sundry accepted doctrines are
+subjected by the younger men to-day, in the detailed restatement of
+historical events which we get from modern research as our fathers could
+never have them--but the work itself, the complete Encyclopaedia or
+Dictionary of Ignorance and Error, will never be printed. It is a great
+pity.
+
+Incidentally one may remark that the process by which a particular error
+is propagated is as interesting to watch as the way in which a plant
+grows.
+
+The first step seems to be the establishing of an authority and the
+giving of that authority a name which comes to connote doctrinal
+infallibility. A very good example of this is the title "Science." Mere
+physical research, its achievements, its certitudes, even its
+conflicting and self-contradictory hypotheses, having got lumped
+together in many minds under this one title Science, the title is now
+sacred. It is used as a priestly title, as an immediate estopper to
+doubt or criticism.
+
+The next step is a very interesting one for the student of psychical
+pathology to note. It seems to be a disease as native and universal to
+the human mind as is the decay of the teeth to the human body. It seems
+as though we all must suffer somewhat from it, and most of us suffer a
+great deal from it, though in a cool aspect we easily perceive it to be
+a lesion of thought. And this second step is as follows:
+
+The whole lump having been given its sacred title and erected into an
+infallible authority, which you are to accept as directly superior to
+yourself and all personal sources of information, there is attributed to
+this idol a number of attributes. We give it a soul, and a habit and
+manners which do not attach to its stuff at all. The projection of this
+imagined living character in our authority is comparable to what we also
+do with mountains, statues, towns, and so forth. Our living
+individuality lends individuality to them. I might here digress to
+discuss whether this habit of the mind were not a distorted reflection
+of some truth, and whether, indeed, there be not such beings as demons
+or the souls of things. But, to leave that, we take our authority--this
+thing "Science," for instance--we clothe it with a creed and appetites
+and a will, and all the other human attributes.
+
+This done, we set out in the third step in our progress towards fixed
+error. We make the idol speak. Of course, being only an idol, it talks
+nonsense. But by the previous steps just referred to we must believe
+that nonsense, and believe it we do. Thus it is, I think, that fixed
+error is most generally established.
+
+I have already given one example in the hierarchic title "Science."
+
+It was but the other day that I picked up a weekly paper in which a
+gentleman was discussing ghosts--that is, the supposed apparition of the
+living and the dead: of the dead though dead, and of the living though
+absent.
+
+Nothing has been more keenly discussed since the beginning of human
+discussions. Are these phenomena (which undoubtedly happen) what modern
+people call subjective, or are they what modern people call objective?
+In old-fashioned English, Are the ghosts really there or are they not?
+The most elementary use of the human reason persuades us that the matter
+is not susceptible of positive proof. The criterion of certitude in any
+matter of perception is an inner sense in the perceiver that the thing
+he perceives is external to himself. He is the only witness; no one can
+corroborate or dispute him. The seer may be right or he may be wrong,
+but we have no proof--and only according to our temperament, our fancy,
+our experience, our mood, do we decide with one or the other of the two
+great schools.
+
+Well, the gentleman of whom I am speaking wrote and had printed in plain
+English this phrase (read it carefully):--"Science teaches us that these
+phenomena are purely subjective."
+
+Now I am quite sure that of the thousands who read that phrase all but a
+handful read it in the spirit in which one hears the oracle of a god.
+Some read it with regret, some with pleasure, but all with acquiescence.
+
+That physical science was not competent in the matter one way or the
+other each of those readers would probably have discovered, if even so
+simple a corrective as the use of the term "physical research" instead
+of the sacred term "science" had been applied; the hierarchic title
+"Science" did the trick.
+
+I might take another example out of many hundreds to show what I mean.
+You have an authority which is called, where documents are concerned,
+"The Best Modern Criticism." "The Best Modern Criticism" decides that
+"Tam o' Shanter" was written by a committee of permanent officials of
+the Board of Trade, or that Napoleon Bonaparte never existed. As a
+matter of fact, the tomfoolery does not usually venture upon ground so
+near home, but it talks rubbish just as monstrous about a poem a few
+hundred or a few thousand years old, or a great personality a few
+hundred or a few thousand years old.
+
+Now if you will look at that phrase "The Best Modern Criticism" you will
+see at once that it simply teems with assumption and tautology. But it
+does more and worse: it presupposes that an infallible authority must of
+its own nature be perpetually wrong.
+
+Even supposing that I have the most "modern" (that is, merely the
+latest) criticism to hand, and even supposing that by some omniscience
+of mine I can tell which is "the best" (that is, which part of it has
+really proved most ample, most painstaking, most general, and most
+sincere), even then the phrase fatally condemns me. It is to say that
+Wednesday is always infallible as compared with Tuesday, and Thursday as
+compared with Wednesday, which is absurd.
+
+The B.M.C. tells me in 1875 that the Song of Roland could have no
+origins anterior to the year 1030. But the B.M.C. of 1885 (being a
+B.M.C. and nothing more valuable) has a changed opinion. It must change
+its opinion, that is the law of its being, since an integral factor in
+its value is its modernity. In 1885 B.M.C. tells me that the Song of
+Roland can be traced to origins far earlier, let us say to 912.
+
+In 1895 B.M.C. has come to other conclusions--the Song of Roland is
+certainly as late as 1115 ... and so forth.
+
+Now you would say that an idol of that absurdity could have no effect
+upon sane men. Change the terms and give it another name, and you would
+laugh at the idea of its having an effect upon any men. But we know as a
+matter of fact that it commands the thoughts of nearly all men to-day
+and makes cowards of the most learned.
+
+Perhaps you will ask me at the end of so long a criticism in what way
+error may be corrected, since there is this sort of tendency in us to
+accept it, to which I answer that things correct it, or as the
+philosophers call things, "Reality." Error does not wash.
+
+To go back to that example of ghosts. If ever you see a ghost (my poor
+reader), I shall ask you afterwards whether he seemed subjective or no.
+I think you will find the word "subjective" an astonishingly thin
+one--if, at least, I catch you early after the experience.
+
+
+
+
+The Great Sight
+
+
+All night we had slept on straw in a high barn. The wood of its beams
+was very old, and the tiles upon the roof were green with age; but there
+hung from beam to beam, fantastically, a wire caught by nails, and here
+and there from this wire hung an electric-light bulb. It was a symbol of
+the time, and the place, and the people. There was no local by-law to
+forbid such a thing, or if there was, no one dreamt of obeying it.
+
+Just in the first dawn of that September day we went out, my companion
+and I, at guesswork to hunt in the most amusing kind of hunting, which
+is the hunting of an army. The lane led through one of those lovely
+ravines of Picardy which travellers never know (for they only see the
+plains), and in a little while we thought it wise to strike up the steep
+bank from the valley on to the bare plateau above, but it was all at
+random and all guesswork, only we wisely thought that we were nearing
+the beginning of things, and that on the bare fields of the high flat we
+should have a greater horizon and a better chance of catching any
+indications of men or arms.
+
+When we had reached the height the sun had long risen, but it as yet
+gave no shining and there were no shadows, for a delicate mist hung all
+about the landscape, though immediately above us the sky was faintly
+blue.
+
+It was the weirdest of sensations to go for mile after mile over that
+vast plain, to know that it was cut in regular series by parallel
+ravines which in all that extended view we could not guess at; to see up
+to the limits of the plateau the spires of villages and the groups of
+trees about them, and to know that somewhere in all this there lay
+concealed a _corps d'armee_--and not to see or hear a soul. The
+only human being that we saw was a man driving a heavy farm cart very
+slowly up a side-way just as we came into the great road which has shot
+dead across this country in one line ever since the Romans built it. As
+we went along that road, leaving the fields, we passed by many men
+indeed, and many houses, all in movement with the early morning; and the
+chalked numbers on the doors, and here and there an empty tin of
+polishing-paste or an order scrawled on paper and tacked to a wall
+betrayed the passage of soldiers. But of the army there was nothing at
+all. Scouting on foot (for that was what it was) is a desperate
+business, and that especially if you have nothing to tell you whether
+you will get in touch in five, or ten, or twenty miles.
+
+It was nine o'clock before a clatter of horse-hoofs came up the road
+behind us. At first my companion and I wondered whether it were the
+first riders of the Dragoons or Cuirassiers. In that case the advance
+was from behind us. But very soon, as the sound grew clearer, we heard
+how few they were, and then there came into view, trotting rapidly, a
+small escort and two officers with the umpires' badges, so there was
+nothing doing; but when, half a mile ahead of us on the road, they
+turned off to the left over plough, we knew that that was the way we
+must follow too. Before we came to the turning-place, before we left the
+road to take the fields on the left, there came from far off and on our
+right the sound of a gun.
+
+It was my companion who heard it first. We strained to hear it again;
+twice we thought we had caught it, and then again twice we doubted. It
+is not so easily recognizable a sound as you might think in those great
+plains cut by islands of high trees and steading walls. The little "75"
+gun lying low makes a different sound altogether at a distance from the
+old piece of "90." At any rate there was here no doubt that there were
+guns to the right and in front of us, and the umpire had gone to the
+left. We were getting towards the thick, and we had only to go straight
+on to find out where the front was.
+
+Just as we had so decided and were still pursuing the high road, there
+came, not half a mile away and again to our right, in a valley below us,
+that curious sound which is like nothing at all unless it be dumping of
+flints out of a cart: rifle fire. It cracked and tore in stretches. Then
+there were little gaps of silence like the gaps in signalling, and then
+it cracked and tore in stretches again; and then, fitfully, one
+individual shot and then another would be heard; and, much further off,
+with little sounds like snaps, the replies began from the hillside
+beyond the stream. So far so good. Here was contact in the valley below
+us, and the guns, some way behind and far off northwards, had opened. So
+we got the hang of it instantly--the front was a sort of a crescent
+lying roughly north and south, and roughly parallel to the great road,
+and the real or feigned mass of the advance was on the extreme left of
+that front. We were in it now, and that anxious and wearing business in
+all hunting, finding, was over; but we had been on foot six mortal hours
+before coming across our luck, and more than half the soldiers' day was
+over. These men had been afoot since three, and certain units on the
+left had already marched over twenty miles.
+
+After that coming in touch with our business, not only did everything
+become plain, but the numbers we met, and what I have called "the thick
+of things," fed us with interest. We passed half the 38th, going down
+the road singing, to extend the line, and in a large village we came to
+the other half, slouching about in the traditional fashion of the
+Service; they had been waiting for an hour. With them, and lined up all
+along the village street, was one battery, with the drivers dismounted,
+and all that body were at ease. There were men sitting on the doorsteps
+of the houses and men trotting to the canteen-wagon or to the village
+shops to buy food; and there were men reading papers which a pedlar had
+brought round. Mud and dust had splashed them all; upon some there was a
+look of great fatigue; they were of all shapes and sizes, and altogether
+it was the sort of sight you would not see in any other service in the
+world. It was the sort of sight which so disgusted the Emperor Joseph
+when he made his little tour to spy out the land before the
+Revolutionary Wars. It was the sort of sight which made Massenbach
+before Grandpre marvel whether the French forces were soldiers at all,
+and the sort of sight which made Valmy inexplicable to the King of
+Prussia and his staff. It was the sort of sight which eighteen months
+later still convinced Mack in Tournai that the Duke of York's plan was a
+plan "of annihilation." It is a trap for judgment is the French service.
+
+So they lounged about and bought bread, and shifted their packs, and so
+the drivers stood by their horses, and so they all waited and slouched;
+until there came, not a man with a bugle nor anything with the slightest
+savour of drama but a little fellow running along thumping in his loose
+leather leggings, who went up to a Major of Artillery and saluted, and
+immediately afterwards the Major put his hand up, and then down a
+village street, from a point which we could not see came a whistle, and
+the whole of that mass of men began to swarm. The grey-blue coats of the
+line swung round the corner of the village street; they had yet a few
+miles before them. Anything more rapid or less in step it would be
+difficult to conceive. The guns were off at a right angle down the main
+road, making a prodigious clatter, and at the same time appeared two
+parties, one of which it was easy to understand, the other not. They
+were both parties of sappers. The one party had a great roll of wire on
+a drum, and as quick as you could think they were unreeling it, and as
+they unreeled it fastening it to eaves, overhanging branches, and to
+corners of walls, stretching it out forward. It was the field-telephone.
+The other party came along carrying great beams upon their shoulders,
+but what they were to do with these beams we did not know.
+
+We followed the tail of the line down into the valley, and all that
+morning long and past the food time at midday, and so till the sun
+declined in the afternoon, we went with the 38th in its gradual success
+from crest to crest. And still the 38th slouched by companies, and mile
+after mile with checks and halts, and it never seemed to get either less
+or more tired. The men had had twelve hours of it when they came at
+last, and we after them, on to the critical position. They had carried
+(together with all the line to left and to the right of them) a string
+of villages which crowned the crest of a further plateau, and over this
+further plateau they were advancing against the main body of the
+resistance--the other army corps which was set up against ours, to
+simulate an enemy.
+
+A railway line ran here across the rolling hedgeless fields, and just at
+the point where my companion and I struck it there was a dip in the land
+and a high embankment which hid the plain beyond; but from that plain
+beyond one heard the separate fire of the advancing line in its
+scattered order. We climbed the embankment, and from its ridge we saw
+over two miles or more of stubble, the little creeping bunches of the
+attack. What was resisting, or where it lay, one could only guess. Some
+hundreds of yards before us to the east, with the sloping sun full on
+it, a line of thicket, one scattered wood and then another, an
+imperceptible lifting of the earth here and there marked the opposing
+firing line. Two pompoms could be spotted exactly, for the flashes were
+clear through the underwood. And still the tide of the advance continued
+to flow, and the little groups came up and fed it, one after another and
+another, in the centre where we were, and far away to the north and
+right away to the south the countryside was alive with it. The action
+was beginning to take on something of that final movement and decision
+which makes the climax of manoeuvres look so great a game. But in a
+little while that general creeping forward was checked: there were
+orders coming from the umpires, and a sort of lull fell over each
+position held. My companion said to me:
+
+"Let us go forward now over the intervening zone and in among Picquart's
+men, and get well behind their line, and see whether there is a rally or
+whether before the end of this day they begin to fall back again."
+
+So we did, walking a mile or so until we had long passed their outposts
+and were behind their forward lines. And standing there, upon a little
+eminence near a wood, we turned and looked over what we had come,
+westward towards the sun which was now not far from its setting. Then it
+was that we saw the last of the Great Sight.
+
+The level light, mellow and already reddening, illumined all that plain
+strangely, and with the absolute stillness of the air contrasted the
+opening of the guns which had been brought up to support the renewal of
+the attack. We saw the isolated woods standing up like islands with low
+steep cliffs, dotted in a sea of stubble for miles and miles, and first
+from the cover of one and then from another the advance perpetually,
+piercing and deploying. As we so watched there buzzed high above us,
+like a great hornet, a biplane, circling well within our lines, beyond
+attack from the advance, but overlooking all they concealed behind it.
+In a few minutes a great Bleriot monoplane like a hawk followed, yet
+further inwards. The two great birds shot round in an arc, parallel to
+the firing line, and well behind it, and in a few minutes, that seemed
+seconds, they were dots to the south and then lost in the air. And
+perpetually, as the sun declined, Picquart's men were falling back north
+and south of us and before us, and the advance continued. Group by group
+we saw it piercing this hedge, that woodland, now occupying a nearer and
+a nearer roll of land. It was the greatest thing imaginable: this
+enormous sweep of men, the dead silence of the air, and the
+comparatively slight contrast of the ceaseless pattering rifle fire and
+the slight intermittent accompaniment of the advancing batteries; until
+the sun set and all this human business slackened. Then for the first
+time one heard bugles, which were a command to cease the game.
+
+I would not have missed that day nor lose the memories of it for
+anything in the world.
+
+
+
+
+The Decline of a State
+
+
+The decline of a State is not equivalent to a mortal sickness therein.
+States are organisms subject to diseases and to decay as are the
+organisms of men's bodies; but they are not subject to a rhythmic rise
+and fall as is the body of a man. A State in its decline is never a
+State doomed or a State dying. States perish slowly or by violence, but
+never without remedy and rarely without violence.
+
+The decline of a State differs with the texture of it. A democratic
+State will decline from a lowering of its potential, that is of its
+ever-ready energy to act in a crisis, to correct and to control its
+servants in common times, to watch them narrowly and suspect them at all
+times. A despotic State will decline when the despot is not in point of
+fact the true depository of despotic power, but some other acting in his
+name, of whom the people know little and cannot judge; or when the
+despot, though fully in view and recognized, lacks will; or when (which
+is rare) he is so inhuman as to miss the general sense of his subjects.
+An oligarchic State, or aristocracy as it is called, will decline
+principally through two agencies which are, first, illusion, and
+secondly, lack of civic aptitude. For an oligarchic State tends very
+readily to illusion, being conducted by men who live at leisure, satisfy
+their passions, are immune from the laws, and prefer to shield
+themselves from reality. Their capacity or appetite for illusion will
+rapidly pervade those below them, for in an aristocracy the rulers are
+subjected to a sort of worship from the rest of the community, and thus
+it comes about that aristocracies in their decline accept fantastic
+histories of their own past, conceive victory possible without armies,
+wealth to be an indication of ability, and national security to be a
+natural gift rather than a product of the will. Such communities further
+fail from the lack of civic aptitude, as was said above, which means
+that they deliberately elect to leave the mass of citizens incompetent
+and irresponsible for generations, so that, when any more strain is upon
+them, they look at once for some men other than themselves to relieve
+them, and are incapable of corporate action upon their own account.
+
+The decline of a State differs also according to whether it be a great
+State or a small one, for in the first indifference, in the latter
+faction, are a peril, and in the first ignorance, in the latter private
+spite.
+
+Then again, the decline of a State will differ according to whether its
+strength is rooted originally in commerce, in arms, or in production;
+and if in production, then whether in the production of the artisan or
+in that of the peasant. If arms be the basis of the State, then that the
+army should become professional and apart is a symptom of decline and a
+cause of it; if commerce, the substitution of hazards and imaginaries
+for the transport of real goods and the search after real demand; if
+production, the discontent or apathy of the producer; as with peasants
+an ill system in the taxation of the land or in the things necessary for
+its tillage, such as a misgovernment of its irrigation in a dry country;
+the permission of private exactions and tolls in a fertile one; the
+toleration of thieves and forestallers, and so forth. Artisans, upon the
+other hand, may well flourish, though the State be corrupt in such
+matters, but they must be secured in a high wage and be given a vast
+liberty of protest, for if they sink to be slaves in fact, they will
+from the nature of their toil grow both weak and foolish. Yet is not the
+State endangered by the artisan's throwing off a refuse of ill-paid and
+starving men who are either too many for the work or unskilful at it?
+Such an excretion would poison a peasantry, remaining in their body as
+it were, but artisans are purged thereby. This refuse it is for the
+State to decide upon. It may in an artisan State be used for soldiery
+(since such States commonly maintain but small armies and are commonly
+indifferent to military glory), or it may be set to useful labour, or
+again, destroyed; but this last use is repugnant to humanity, and so in
+the long run hurtful to the State.
+
+In the decline of a State, of whatever nature that State be, two vices
+will immediately appear and grow: these are Avarice and Fear; and men
+will more readily accept the imputation of Avarice than of Fear, for
+Avarice is the less despicable of the two--yet in fact Fear will be by
+far the strongest passion of the time.
+
+Avarice will show itself not indeed in a mere greed of gain (for this is
+common to all societies whether flourishing or failing), but rather in a
+sort of taking for granted and permeation of the mere love of money, so
+that history will be explained by it, wars judged by their booty or
+begun in order to enrich a few, love between men and women wholly
+subordinated to it, especially among the rich: wealth made a test for
+responsibility and great salaries invented and paid to those who serve
+the State. This vice will also be apparent in the easy acquaintance of
+all who are possessed of wealth and their segregation from the less
+fortunate, for avarice cleaves society flatways, keeping the scum of it
+quite clear of the middle, the middle of it quite clear of the dregs,
+and so forth. It is a further mark of avarice in its last stages that
+the rich are surrounded with lies in which they themselves believe.
+Thus, in the last phase, there are no parasites but only friends, no
+gifts but only loans, which are more esteemed favours than gifts once
+were. No one vicious but only tedious, and no one a poltroon but only
+slack.
+
+Of Fear in the decline of a State it may be said that it is so much the
+master passion of such decline as to eat up all others. Coming by travel
+from a healthy State to one diseased, Fear is the first point you take.
+Men dare not print or say what they feel of the judges, the public
+governors, the action of the police, the controllers of fortunes and of
+news. This Fear will have about it something comic, providing infinite
+joy to the foreigner, and modifying with laughter the lament of the
+patriot. A miserable hack that never had a will of his own, but ran to
+do what he was told for twenty years at the bidding of his masters,
+being raised to the Bench will be praised for an impartial virtue more
+than human. A drunken fellow, the son of a drunkard, having stolen
+control over some half-dozen sheets, must be named under the breath or
+not at all. A powerful minister may be accused with sturdy courage of
+something which he did not do and no one would mind his doing, but under
+the influence of Fear, to tell the least little truth about him will put
+a whole assembly into a sort of blankness.
+
+This vice has for its most laughable effect the raising of a whole host
+of phantoms, and when a State is so far gone that civic Fear is quite
+normal to the citizens, then you will find them blenching with terror at
+a piece of print, a whispered accusation. Bankruptcy, though they be
+possessed of nothing, and even the ill-will of women. Moneylenders under
+this influence have the greatest power, next after them, blackmailers of
+all kinds, and next after these eccentrics who may blurt or break out.
+Those who have least power in the decline of a State, are priests,
+soldiers, the mothers of many children, the lovers of one woman, and
+saints.
+
+
+
+
+On Past Greatness
+
+
+There lies in the North-East of France, close against the Belgian
+frontier and within cannon shot of the famous battlefield of Malplaquet,
+a little town called Bavai--I have written of it elsewhere.
+
+Coming into this little town you seem to be entering no more than a
+decent, unimportant market borough, a larger village meant for country
+folk, perhaps without a history and certainly without fame.
+
+As you come to look about you one thing after another enlivens your
+curiosity and suggests something at once enormous and remote in the
+destinies of the place.
+
+In the first place, seven great roads go out like the seven rays of a
+star, plumb straight, darting along the line, across the vast, bare
+fields of Flanders, past and along the many isolated woods of the
+provinces, and making to great capitals far off--to Cologne, to Paris,
+to Treves, and to the ports of the sea.
+
+These roads are deserted in great part. Some of them are metalled in
+certain sections, and again in other sections are no more than lanes,
+and again no more than footpaths, as you proceed along their miles of
+way; but their exact design awfully impresses the mind. You know, as you
+follow such strict alignment, that you are fulfilling the majestic
+purpose of Imperial Rome. It was the Romans that made these things.
+
+Then, intrigued and excited by such remains of greatness, you read what
+you can of the place.... And you find nothing but a dust of legend. You
+find a story that once here a king, filled with ambition and worshipping
+strange gods, thrust out these great roads to the ends of the earth;
+desired his capital to be a hub and navel for the world. He put them
+under the protection of the seven planets and of the deities of those
+stars. Three he paved with black marble and four with white marble, and
+where they met upon the market place he put up a golden terminal. There
+the legend ends.
+
+It is only legend--a true product of the Dark Ages, when all that Rome
+had done rose like a huge dream in the mind of Europe and took on
+gorgeous and fantastic colouring. You learn (for the rest) very
+little--that ornaments and money have been found dating from two
+thousand years, that once great walls surrounded the place. It must have
+had noble buildings and solemn courts. In strict history all you will
+discover is that it was the capital of that tribe, the Nervii, against
+whom Caesar fought, and whose territory was early conquered for the
+Empire. You will find nothing more. There is no living tradition, there
+is no voice; the little town is dumb.
+
+The place is a figure, and a striking one, of greatness long dead, and a
+man visiting its small domestic interests to-day, and noting its
+comfort, its humility, and its sleep, is reminded of many things
+attaching to human fame. It would seem as though the ambitions of men,
+and that exalted appetite for glory which has produced the chief things
+of this world, suffer the effect of time somewhat as the body of an
+animal slain will suffer that.
+
+One part of the organism and then another decays and mixes back with
+nature. The effect of will has vanished. The thing is a prey to all that
+environment which, once alive, it combated, conquered, and transformed
+to its own use. One portion after another is lost, until at last only
+the most resisting stands--the skeleton and hard framework, the least
+expressive, the least personal part of the whole. This also decays and
+perishes. Then there remains no more but a score of hardened fragments
+that linger in their place, and what has passed away is fortunate if
+even the slightest or most fantastic legend of itself survives.
+
+The great dead are first forgotten in their physical habit; we lose the
+nature of their voices, we forget their sympathies and their affections.
+Bit by bit all that they intended to be eternal slips back into the
+common thing around. A blurred image, growing fainter and fainter,
+lingers. At last the person vanishes, and in its place some public
+raising material things--a monument, a tomb, an ornament, or weapon of
+enduring metal--is all that remains.
+
+If it were possible for the spring of appetite and quest to be dried up
+in man, such a spectacle would dry up that spring.
+
+It is not possible, for it is providentially in the nature of man to
+cherish these illusions of an immortal memory and of a life bestowed
+upon the shade or the mere name of his living greatness. Those various
+forms of fame which are young men's goals, and to which the eager
+creative power of early manhood so properly directs itself, seem each in
+turn or each for its varying temperament to promise the desired reward;
+and one imagines that his love, another that his discoveries, another
+that his victories in the field or his conspicuous acts of courage will
+remain permanently with his fellows long after he has left their feast.
+
+As though to give some substance to the flattering cheat, there is one
+kind of fame which men have been permitted to attain, and which does
+give them a sort of fixed tenure--if not for ever, yet for generations
+upon generations--in the human city. This sort of fame is the fame of
+the great poets. There is nothing more enduring. It has for some who
+were most blessed outlasted, you may say, all material things which they
+handled or they knew--all fabrics, all instruments, all habitations. It
+is comparable in its endurance to the years, and a man reads the "Song
+of Roland" and can still look on that same unchanged Cleft of
+Roncesvalles, or a man reads the Iliad and can look to-day westward from
+the shores to Tenedos. But wait a moment. Are they indeed blessed in
+this, the great poets? Ronsard debated it. He decided that they were,
+and put into the mouth of the muses the great lines:----
+
+ Mais un tel accident n'arrive point a l'ame,
+ Qui sans matiere vist immortelle la haut.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ Vela saigement dit, Ceux dont la fantaisie
+ Sera religieuse et devote envers Dieu
+ Tousjours acheveront quelque grand poesie,
+ Et dessus leur renom la Parque n'aura lieu.
+
+But the matter is still undecided.
+
+
+
+
+Mr. The Duke: The Man of Malplaquet
+
+
+On the field of Malplaquet, that battlefield, I met a man.
+
+He was pointed out to me as a man who drove travellers to Bavai. His
+name was Mr. The Duke, and he was very poor.
+
+If he comes across these lines (which is exceedingly unlikely) I offer
+him my apologies. Anyhow, I can write about him freely, for he is not
+rich, and, what is more, the laws of his country permit the telling of
+the truth about our fellow-men, even when they are rich.
+
+Mr. The Duke was of some years, and his colour was that of cedar wood. I
+met him in his farmyard, and I said to him:
+
+"Is it you, sir, that drive travellers to Bavai?"
+
+"No," said he.
+
+Accustomed by many years of travel to this type of response, I
+continued:
+
+"How much do you charge?"
+
+"Two francs fifty," said he.
+
+"I will give you three francs," I said, and when I had said this he
+shook his head and replied:
+
+"You fall at an evil moment; I was about to milk the cows." Having said
+this he went to harness the horse.
+
+When the horse was harnessed to his little cart (it was an extremely
+small horse, full of little bones and white in colour, with one eye
+stronger than the other) he gave it to his little daughter to hold, and
+himself sat down to table, proposing a meal.
+
+"It is but humble fare," he said, "for we are poor."
+
+This sounded familiar to me; I had both read and heard it before. The
+meal was of bread and butter, pasty and beer, for Malplaquet is a
+country of beer and not of wine.
+
+As he sat at table the old man pointed out to me that contraband across
+the Belgian frontier, which is close by, was no longer profitable.
+
+"The Fraud," he said, "is no longer a living for anyone."
+
+Upon that frontier contraband is called "The Fraud"; it holds an
+honourable place as a career.
+
+"The Fraud," he continued, "has gone long ago; it has burst. It is no
+longer to be pursued. There is not even any duty upon apples.... But
+there is a duty upon pears. Had I a son I would not put him into The
+Fraud.... Sometimes there is just a chance here and there.... One can
+pick up an occasion. But take it all in all (and here he wagged his head
+solemnly) there is nothing in it any more."
+
+I said that I had no experience of contraband professionally, but that I
+knew a very honest man who lived by it in the country of Andorra, and
+that according to my morals a man had a perfect right to run the risk
+and take his chance, for there was no contract between him and the power
+he was trying to get round. This announcement pleased the old gentleman,
+but it did not grip his mind. He was of your practical sort. He was
+almost a Pragmatist. Abstractions wearied him. He put no faith in the
+reality of ideas. I think he was a Nominalist like Abelard: and whatever
+excuse you may make for him, Abelard was a Nominalist right enough, for
+it was the intellectual thing to be at the time, though St. Bernard
+utterly confuted him in arguments of enormous length and incalculable
+boredom.
+
+The old man, then, I say, would have nothing to do with first
+principles, and he reasserted his position that, in the concrete, in the
+existent world, The Fraud no longer paid.
+
+This said for the sixth or seventh time, he drank some brandy to put
+heart into him and climbed up into his little cart, I by his side. He
+hit the white horse with a stick, making at the same time an
+extraordinary shrill noise with his mouth, like a siren, and the horse
+began to slop and sludge very dolefully towards Bavai.
+
+"This horse," said Mr. The Duke, "is a wonderfully good horse. He goes
+like the wind. He is of Arab extraction, and comes from Africa."
+
+With these words he gave the horse another huge blow with his stick, and
+once more emitted his piercing cry. The horse went neither faster nor
+slower than before, and seemed very indifferent to the whole
+performance.
+
+"He is from Africa," said Mr. The Duke again, meditatively. "Do you know
+Africa?"
+
+Africa with the French populace means Algiers. I answered that I knew
+it, and that in particular I knew the road southward from Constantine.
+At this he looked very pleased, and said:
+
+"I was a soldier in Africa. I deserted seven times."
+
+To this I made no answer. I did not know how he wanted me to take it, so
+I waited until he should speak again, which he soon did, and said:
+
+"The last time I deserted I was free for a year and a half. I used to
+conduct beasts; that was my trade. When they caught me I was to have
+been shot. I was saved by the tears of a woman!"
+
+Having said this the old man pulled out a very small pipe and filled it
+with exceedingly black tobacco. He lit it, then he began talking again
+rather more excitedly.
+
+"It is a terrible thing and an unhappy thing none the less," he went on,
+"that a man should be taken out to be shot and should be saved by the
+tears of a woman." Then he added, "Of what use are wars? How foolish it
+is that men should kill each other! If there were a war I would not
+fight. Would you?"
+
+I said I thought I would; but whether I should like to or not would
+depend upon the war.
+
+He was eager to contradict and to tell me that war was wrong and stupid.
+Having behind him the logical training of fifteen Christian centuries he
+was in no way muddle-headed upon the matter. He saw very well that his
+doctrine meant that it was wrong to have a country, and wrong to love
+it, and that patriotism was all bosh, and that no ideal was worth
+physical pain or trouble. To such conclusions had he come at the end of
+his life.
+
+The white horse meanwhile slouched; Bavai grew somewhat nearer as we sat
+in silence after his last sentence. He was turning many things over in
+his mind. He veered off on to political economy.
+
+"When the rich man at the Manufactory here, the place where they sell
+phosphates for the land, when he stands beer to all the workmen and to
+the countryside, I always say, 'Fools! All this will be put on to the
+cost of the phosphates; they will cost you more!'"
+
+Mr. The Duke did not accept John Stuart Mill's proposition upon the cost
+of production nor the general theories of Ricardo upon which Mill's
+propositions were based. In his opinion rent was a factor in the cost of
+production, for he told me that butter had gone up because the price of
+land was rising near the towns. In what he next said I found out that he
+was not a Collectivist, for he said a man should own enough to live
+upon, but he said that this was impossible if rich people were allowed
+to live. I asked him what the politics of the countryside were and how
+people voted. He said:
+
+"The politicians trick the people. They are a heap of worthlessness."
+
+I asked him if he voted, and he said "yes." He said there was only one
+way to vote, but I did not understand what this meant.
+
+Had time served I should have asked him further questions--upon the
+nature of the soul, its ultimate fate, the origin of man and his
+destiny, whether mortal or immortal; the proper constitution of the
+State, the choice of the legislator, the prince, and the magistrate; the
+function of art, whether it is subsidiary or primary in human life; the
+family; marriage. Upon the State he had already informed me, and also
+upon the institution of property, and upon his view of armies. Upon all
+those other things he would equally have given me a clear reply, for he
+was a man that knew his own mind, and that is more than most people can
+say.
+
+But we were now in Bavai, and I had no time to discover more. We drank
+together before we parted, and I was very pleased to see the honest look
+in his face. With more leisure and born to greater opportunities he
+would have been talked about, this Man of Malplaquet. He had come to his
+odd conclusions as the funny people do in Scandinavia and in Russia, and
+among the rich intellectuals and usurers in London and Berlin; but he
+was a jollier man than they are, for he could drive a horse and lie
+about it, and he could also milk a cow. As we parted he used a phrase
+that wounded me, and which I had only heard once before in my life. He
+said:
+
+"We shall never see each other again!"
+
+Another man had once said this thing to me before. This man was a farmer
+in the Northumbrian hills, who walked with me a little way in the days
+when I was going over Carter Fell to find the Scots people, many, many
+years ago. He also said: "We shall never meet again!"
+
+
+
+
+The Game of Cards
+
+
+A youth of no more than twenty-three years entered a first-class
+carriage at the famous station of Swindon in the county of Wiltshire,
+proposing to travel to the uttermost parts of the West and to enjoy a
+comfortable loneliness while he ruminated upon all things human and
+divine; when he was sufficiently annoyed to discover that in the further
+corner of the carriage was sitting an old gentleman of benevolent
+appearance, or at any rate a gentleman of benevolent appearance who
+appeared in his youthful eyes to be old.
+
+For though the old gentleman was, as a fact, but sixty, yet his virile
+beard had long gone white and the fringes of hair attaching to his
+ostrich egg of a head confirmed his venerable appearance.
+
+When the train had started the young man proceeded in no very good
+temper and with great solemnity to fill a pipe. He turned to his senior,
+who was watching him in a very paternal and happy manner, and said
+formally:
+
+"I hope you do not mind my smoking, sir?"
+
+"Not at all," said the old boy; "it is a habit I have long grown
+accustomed to in others."
+
+The young man bowed in a somewhat absurd fashion and felt for his
+matches. He discovered to his no small mortification that he had none.
+He was so used to his pipe after a meal that he really could not forgo
+it. He came off his perch by at least three steps and asked the old man
+very gently whether he had any matches.
+
+The older man produced a box and at the same time brought out with it a
+little notebook and a playing card which happened to be in his pocket.
+The young man took the matches and lit his pipe, surveying the old man
+the while with a more complacent eye.
+
+"It is very kind of you, sir," he said a little less stiffly. He handed
+back the matches, wrapped his rug round his legs, sat down in his place,
+and knowing that one should prolong the conversation for a moment or two
+after a favour, said: "I see that you play cards."
+
+"I do," said the old man simply; "would you like a game?"
+
+"I don't mind," said the young man, who had always heard that it was
+unmanly and ridiculous to refuse a game of cards in a railway carriage.
+
+The elder man laughed merrily in his strong beard as he saw his junior
+begin to spread somewhat awkwardly a copy of a newspaper upon his knees.
+"I'll show you a trick worth two of that," he said, and taking one of
+the first-class cushions, which alone of railway cushions are movable
+from its place, he came over to the corner opposite the young man and
+made a table of the cushion between them. "Now," said he genially,
+"what's it to be?"
+
+"Well," said the young man like one who expounds new mysteries, "do you
+know piquet?"
+
+"Oh, yes," said his companion with another happy little laugh of
+contentment with the world. "I'll take you on. What shall it be?"
+
+"Pennies if you like," said the young man nonchalantly.
+
+"Very well, and double for the Rubicon."
+
+"How do you mean?" said the young man, puzzled.
+
+"You will see," said the old man, and they began to play.
+
+The game was singularly absorbing. At first the young man won a few
+pounds; then he lost rather heavily, then he won again, but not quite
+enough to recoup. Then in the fourth game he won, so that he was a
+little ahead, and meanwhile the old man chatted merrily during the
+discarding or the shuffling: during the shuffling especially. He looked
+out towards the downs with something of a sigh at one moment, and said:
+
+"It's a happy world."
+
+"Yes," answered the younger man with the proper lugubriousness of youth,
+"but it all comes to an end."
+
+"It isn't its coming to an end," said the elder man, declaring a point
+of six, "that's not the tragedy; it's the little bits coming to an end
+meanwhile, before the whole comes to an end: that's the tragedy...." But
+he added with another of his jolly laughs: "We must play. Piquet takes
+up all one's grey matter."
+
+They played and the young man lost again, but by a very narrow margin:
+it was quite an absorbing game. As they shuffled again the young man
+said:
+
+"What did you mean by the little bits stopping, or whatever it was?"
+
+"Oh," said the old man as though he couldn't remember, and then he
+added: "Oh, yes, I mean you'll find, as you grow older, people die and
+affections change, and, though it seems silly to mention it in company
+with higher things, there's what Shelley called the 'contagion of the
+world's slow stain.'"
+
+Then their conversation was interrupted by the ardour of the game; but
+as they played the young man was ruminating, and he had come to the
+conclusion that his senior was imperfectly educated and was probably of
+the middle classes, whereas he himself was destined to be a naval
+architect, and with that object had recently left the university for an
+office in the city. The young man thought that a man properly educated
+would never quote a tag: he was wrong there. As he had allowed his
+thoughts to wander somewhat the young man lost that game rather heavily,
+and at the end of it he was altogether about ten shillings to the bad.
+It was his turn to shuffle. The older man was at leisure to speak, and
+did so rather dreamily as he gazed at the landscape again.
+
+"Things change, you know," he said, "and there is the contagion of the
+world's slow stain. One gets preoccupied: especially about money. When
+men marry they get very much preoccupied upon that point. It's bad for
+them, but it can't be helped."
+
+"You cut," said the young man.
+
+His elder cut and they played again. This time as they played their game
+the old man broke his rule of silence and continued his observations
+interruptedly:
+
+"Four kings," he said.... "It isn't that a man gets to think money
+all-important, it is that he has to think of it all the time.... No,
+three queens are no good. I said four kings.... four knaves.... The
+little losses of money don't affect one, but perpetual trouble about it
+does, and" (closing up the majority of tricks which he had just gained)
+"many a man goes on making more year after year and yet feels himself in
+peril.... _And_ the last trick." He took up the cards to shuffle
+them. "Towards the very end of life," he continued, "it gets less, I
+suppose, but you'll feel the burden of it." He put the pack over for the
+younger man to cut. When that was done he dealt them out slowly. As he
+dealt he said: "One feels the loss of little material things: objects to
+which one was attached, a walking-stick, or a ring, or a watch which one
+has carried for years. Your declare."
+
+The young man declared, and that game was played in silence. I regret to
+say that the young man was Rubiconed, and was thirty shillings in the
+elder's debt.
+
+"We'll stop if you like" said the elder man kindly.
+
+"Oh, no," said the youth with nonchalance, "I'll pay you now if you
+like."
+
+"Not at all, I didn't mean that," said the older man with a sudden prick
+of honour.
+
+"Oh, but I will, and we'll start fair again," said the young man.
+Whereupon he handed over his combined losses in gold, the older man gave
+him change, they shuffled again, and they went on with their play.
+
+"After all," said the older man, musing as he confessed to a point of no
+more than five, "it's all in the day's work.... It's just a day's work,"
+he repeated with a saddened look in his eyes, "it's a game that one
+plays like this game, and then when it's over it's over. It's the little
+losses that count."
+
+That game again was unfortunate for the young man, and he had to shell
+out fifteen and six. But the brakes were applied, Bristol was reached,
+the train came to a standstill, and the young man, looking up a little
+confused and hurried, said: "Hello, Bristol! I get out here."
+
+"So do I," said the older man. They both stood up together, and the jolt
+of the train as it stopped dead threw them into each other's arms.
+
+"I am really very sorry," said the youth.
+
+"It's my fault," said the old chap like a good fellow, "I ought to have
+caught hold. You get out and I'll hand you your bag."
+
+"It's very kind of you," said the young man. He was really flattered by
+so much attention, but he knew himself what a good companion he was and
+he could understand it; besides which they had made friends during that
+little journey. He always liked a man to whom he had lost some money in
+an honest game.
+
+There was a heavy crowd upon the platform, and two men barging up out of
+it saluted the old man boisterously by the name of Jack. He twinkled at
+them with his eyes as he began moving the luggage about, and stood for a
+moment in the doorway with his own bag in his right hand and the young
+man's bag in his left. The young man so saw it for an instant, a fine
+upstanding figure--he saw his bag handed by some mistake to the second
+of the old man's friends, a porter came by at the moment pushing through
+the crowd with a trolley, an old lady made a scene, the porter
+apologized, the crowd took sides, some for the porter, some for the old
+lady; the young man, with the deference of his age, politely asked
+several people to make way, but when he had emerged from the struggle
+his companion, his companion's friends, and his own bag could not be
+found; or at any rate he could not make out where they were in the great
+mass that pushed and surged upon the platform.
+
+He made himself a little conspicuous by asking too many questions and by
+losing his temper twice with people who had done him no harm, when, just
+as his excitement was growing more than querulous, a very heavy,
+stupid-looking man in regulation boots tapped him on the shoulder and
+said: "Follow me." He was prepared with an oath by way of reply, but
+another gentleman of equal weight, wearing boots of the same pattern,
+linked his arm in his and between them they marched him away, to a
+little private closet opening out of the stationmaster's room.
+
+"Now, sir," said he who had first tapped him on the shoulder, "be good
+enough to explain your movements."
+
+"I don't know what you mean," said the young man.
+
+"You were in the company," said the older man severely, "of an old man,
+bald, with a white beard and a blue sailor suit. He had come from
+London; you joined him at Swindon. We have evidence that he was to be
+met at this station and it will be to your advantage if you make a clean
+breast of it."
+
+The young man was violent and he was borne away.
+
+But he had friends at Bristol. He gave his references and he was
+released. To this day he believes that he suffered not from folly, but
+from injustice. He did not see his bag again, but after all it contained
+no more than his evening clothes, for which he had paid or rather owed
+six guineas, four shirts, as many collars and dress ties, a
+silver-mounted set of brushes and combs, and useless cut-glass bottles,
+a patented razor, a stick of shaving soap, and two very, very
+confidential letters which he treasured. His watch, of course, was gone,
+but not, I am glad to say, his chain, which hung dangling, though in his
+flurry he had not noticed it. It made him look a trifle ridiculous. As
+he wore no tie-pin he had not lost that, and beyond his temper he had
+indeed lost nothing further save, possibly, a textbook upon
+Thermodynamics. This book he _thought_ he remembered having put
+into the bag, and if he had it belonged to his library, but he could not
+quite remember this point, and when the Library claimed it he stoutly
+disputed their claim.
+
+In this dispute he was successful, but it was the only profit he made
+out of that journey, unless we are to count his experience, and
+experience, as all the world knows, is a thing that men must buy.
+
+
+
+
+"King Lear"
+
+
+The great unity which was built up two thousand years ago and was
+called Christendom in its final development split and broke in pieces.
+The various civilizations of its various provinces drifted apart, and it
+will be for the future historian to say at what moment the isolation of
+each from all was farthest pushed. It is certain that that point is
+passed.
+
+In the task of reuniting what was broken--it is the noblest work a
+modern man can do--the very first mechanical act must be to explain one
+national soul to another. That act is not final. The nations of Europe,
+now so divided, still have more in common than those things by which
+they differ, and it is certain that when they have at last revealed to
+them their common origin they will return to it. They will return to it,
+perhaps, under the pressure of war waged by some not Christian
+civilization, but they will return. In the meanwhile, of those acts not
+final, yet of immediate necessity in the task of establishing unity, is
+the act of introducing one national soul to another.
+
+Now this is best accomplished in a certain way which I will describe.
+You will take that part in the letters of a nation which you maturely
+judge most or best to reflect the full national soul, with its
+qualities, careless of whether these be great or little; you will take
+such a work as reproduces for you as you read it, not only in its
+sentiment, but in its very rhythm, the stuff and colour of the nation;
+this you will present to the foreigner, who cannot understand. His
+efforts must be laborious, very often unfruitful, but where it is
+fruitful it will be of a decisive effect.
+
+Thus let anyone take some one of the immortal things that Racine wrote
+and show them to an Englishman. He will hardly ever be able to make
+anything of it at first. Here and there some violently emotional passage
+may faintly touch him, but the mass of the verse will seem to him dead.
+Now, if by constant reading, by association with those who know what
+Racine is, he at last sees him--and these changes in the mind come very
+suddenly--he will see into the soul of Gaul. For the converse task,
+to-day not equally difficult but once almost impossible, of presenting
+England to the French intelligence--or, indeed, to any other alien
+intelligence--you may choose the play "King Lear."
+
+That play has every quality which does reflect the soul of the community
+in which and for which it was written. Note a few in their order.
+
+First, it is not designed to its end; at least it is not designed
+accurately to its end; it is written as a play and it is meant to be
+acted as a play, and it is the uniform opinion of those versed in plays
+and in acting that in its full form it could hardly be presented, while
+in any form it is the hardest even of Shakespeare's plays to perform.
+Here you have a parallel with a thousand mighty English things to which
+you can turn. Is there not institution after institution to decide on,
+so lacking a complete fitness to its end, larger in a way than the end
+it is to serve, and having, as it were, a life of its own which proceeds
+apart from its effect? This quality which makes so many English things
+growths rather than instruments is most evident in the great play.
+
+Again, it has that quality which Voltaire noted, which he thought
+abnormal in Shakespeare, but which is the most national characteristic
+in him, that a sort of formlessness, if it mars the framework of the
+thing and spoils it, yet also permits the exercise of an immeasurable
+vitality. When a man has read "King Lear" and lays down the book he is
+like one who has been out in one of those empty English uplands in a
+storm by night. It is written as though the pen bred thoughts. It is
+possible to conjecture as one reads, and especially in the diatribes,
+that the pen itself was rapid and the brain too rapid for the pen. One
+feels the rush of the air. Now, this quality is to be discovered in the
+literature of many nations, but never with the fullness which it has in
+the literature of England. And note that in those phases of the national
+life when foreign models have constrained this instinct of expansion in
+English verse, they never have restrained it for long, and that even
+through the bonds established by those models the instinct of expansion
+breaks. You see it in the exuberance of Dryden and in the occasional
+running rhetoric of Pope, until it utterly loosens itself with the end
+of the eighteenth century.
+
+The play is national, again, in that permanent curiosity upon knowable
+things--nay, that mysterious half-knowledge of unknowable things--which,
+in its last forms, produced the mystic, and which is throughout history
+so plainly characteristic of these Northern Atlantic islands. Every play
+of Shakespeare builds with that material, and no writer, even of the
+English turn, has sent out points further into the region of what is not
+known than Shakespeare has in sudden flashes of phrase. But "King Lear,"
+though it contains a lesser number of lines of this mystical and
+half-religious effect than, say, "Hamlet," yet as a general impression
+is the more mystical of the two plays. The element of madness, which in
+"Hamlet" hangs in the background like a storm-cloud ready to break, in
+"King Lear" rages; and it is the use of this which lends its amazing
+psychical power to the play. It has been said (with no great profundity
+of criticism) that English fiction is chiefly remarkable for its power
+of particularization of character, and that where French work, for
+instance, will present ideas, English will present persons. The judgment
+is grossly insufficient, and therefore false, but it is based upon a
+proof which is very salient in English letters, which is that, say, in
+quite short and modern work the sense of complete unity deadens the
+English mind. The same nerve which revolts at a straight road and at a
+code of law revolts against one tone of thought, and the sharp contrast
+of emotional character, not the dual contrast which is common to all
+literatures, but the multiple contrast, runs through "King Lear" and
+gives the work such a tone that one seems as one reads it to be moving
+in a cloud.
+
+The conclusion is perhaps Shakespearean rather than English, and in a
+fashion escapes from any national labelling. But the note of silence
+which Shakespeare suddenly brings in upon the turmoil, and with which he
+is so fond of completing what he has done, would not be possible were
+not that spirit of expansion and of a kind of literary adventurousness
+present in all that went before.
+
+It is indeed this that makes the play so memorable. And it may not be
+fantastic to repeat and expand what has been said above in other words,
+namely, that King Lear has something about him which seems to be a
+product of English landscape and of English weather, and if its general
+movement is a storm its element is one of those sudden silences that
+come sometimes with such magical rapidity after the booming of the wind.
+
+
+
+
+The Excursion
+
+
+It is so old a theme that I really hesitate to touch it; and yet it is
+so true and so useful that I will. It is true all the time, and it is
+particularly useful at this season of the year to men in cities: to all
+repetitive men: to the men that read these words. What is more, true as
+it is and useful as it is, no amount of hammering at people seems to get
+this theme into their practice; though it has long ago entered into
+their convictions they will not act upon it in their summers. And this
+true and useful theme is the theme of little freedoms and discoveries,
+the value of getting loose and away by a small trick when you want to
+get your glimpse of Fairyland.
+
+Now how does one get loose and away?
+
+When a man says to himself that he must have a holiday he means that he
+must see quite new things that are also old: he desires to open that
+door which stood wide like a window in childhood and is now shut fast.
+But where are the new things that are also the old? Paradoxical fellows
+who deserve drowning tell one that they are at our very doors. Well,
+that is true of the eager mind, but the mind is no longer eager when it
+is in need of a holiday. And you can get at the new things that are also
+the old by way of drugs, but drugs are a poor sort of holiday fabric. If
+you have stored up your memory well with much experience you can get
+these things from your memory--but only in a pale sort of way.
+
+I think the best avenue to recreation by the magical impressions of the
+world upon the mind is this: To go to some place to which the common
+road leads you and then to get just off the common road. You will be
+astonished to find how strange the world becomes in the first mile--and
+how strange it remains till the common road is reached again.
+
+It always sounds like a mockery for a man who has travelled to a great
+many places, as I have, to advise his fellows to travel abroad; they are
+most of them hard tied. Yet it is really a much easier thing than men
+bound to the desk and the workshop understand. Britain is but one great
+port, and its inward seas are narrow--and the fares are ridiculously
+low. If you are a young man you can go almost anywhere for almost
+anything, sitting up by night on deck, and not expecting too much
+courtesy. But, of course, if you shirk the sea you are a prisoner.
+
+Well, then, supposing you abroad, or even in some other part of this
+highly varied kingdom in which you live, and supposing you to have
+reached some chosen place by some common road--what I desire to dilate
+upon here is the truth which every little excursion of business or of
+leisure (and precious few of leisure) makes me more certain of every
+day: That just a little way off the road is fairyland.
+
+It was exactly three days ago that I had occasion to go down the railway
+line that is the most frequented in Europe: I was on business, not
+leisure, but in the business I had two days' leisure, and I did what I
+would advise all other men to do in such a circumstance.
+
+I took a train to nowhere, fixing my starting-point thus:--
+
+I first looked at the map and saw where nearest to me was a
+quadrilateral bare of railways. This formula, to look for a
+quadrilateral bare of railways, is a very useful formula for the man who
+is seeking another world. Then I fixed at random upon one little
+roadside station upon the main line; I determined to get out there and
+to walk aimlessly and westward until I should strike the other side of
+the quadrilateral. I made no plan, not even of the hours of the day.
+
+I came into my roadside station at half-past eight of the long summer
+night, broad daylight that is, but with night advancing. I got out and
+began my westward march. At once there crowded upon me any number of
+unexpected and entertaining things!
+
+The first thing I found was a street which was used by horses as well as
+by men, and yet was made up of broad steps. It was a sort of stair-case
+going up a hill. At the top of it I found a woman leading a child by the
+hand. I asked her the name of the steps. She told me they were called
+"The Steps of St. John."
+
+A quarter of a mile further down the narrow lane I saw to my
+astonishment an enormous castle, ruined and open to the sky. There are
+many such ruins famous in Europe, but of this one I had never even
+heard. I went lonely under the evening and looked at its main gate and
+saw on it a moulded escutcheon, carved, and the motto in French,
+"Henceforward," which word made me think a great deal, but resolved no
+problem in my mind.
+
+I went on again westward as the darkness fell and saw what I had not
+seen before, though my reading had told me of its existence, a long line
+of trees marking a ridge on the horizon, which line was the border of
+that ancient road the Roman soldiers built leading from the west into
+Amiens. "Along that road," thought I, "St. Martin rode before he became
+a monk, and while he was yet a soldier and was serving under Julian the
+Apostate. Along that road he came to the west gate of Amiens and there
+cut his cloak in two and gave the half of it to a beggar."
+
+The memory of St. Martin's deed entertained me for some miles of my way,
+and I remembered how, when I was a child, it had seemed to me ridiculous
+to cut your coat in two whether for a beggar or for anybody else. Not
+that I thought charity ridiculous--God forbid!--but that a coat seemed
+to me a thing you could not cut in two with any profit to the user of
+either half. You might cut it in latitude and turn it into an Eton
+jacket and a kilt, neither of much use to a Gallo-Roman beggar. Or you
+might cut it in meridian and leave but one sleeve: mere folly.
+
+Considering these things, I went on over the rolling plateau. I saw a
+great owl flying before me against the sky, different from the owls of
+home. I saw Jupiter shining above a cloud and Venus shining below one.
+The long light lingered in the north above the English sea. At last I
+came quite unexpectedly upon that delight and plaything of the French: a
+light railway, or steam tram such as that people build in great
+profusion to link up their villages and their streams. The road where I
+came upon it made a level crossing, and there was a hut there, and a
+woman living in it who kept the level crossing and warned the
+passers-by. She told me no more trains, or rather little trams, would
+pass that night, but that three miles further on I should come to a
+place called "The Mills of the Vidame."
+
+Now the name "Vidame" reminded me that a "Vidame" was the lay protector
+of a Cathedral Chapter in feudal times, so the name gave me a renewed
+pleasure.
+
+But it was now near midnight, and when I came to this village I
+remembered how in similar night walks I had sometimes been refused
+lodging. When I got among the few houses all was dark. I found, however,
+in the darkness two young men, each bearing an enormous curled trumpet
+of the kind which the French call _cors de chasse_, that is,
+hunting horns, so I asked them where the inn was. They took me to it and
+woke up the hostess, who received us with oaths. This she did lest the
+young men with hunting horns should demand a commission. Her heart,
+however, was better than her mouth, and she put me up, but she charged
+me tenpence for my room, counting coffee in the morning, which was, I am
+sure, more than her usual rate.
+
+Next day I took the little steam tram away from the place and went on
+vaguely whither it should please God to take me, until the plateau
+changed and the light railway fell into a charming valley, and, seeing a
+town rooted therein, I got out and paid my fare and visited the town. In
+this town I went to church, as it was early morning (you must excuse the
+foible), and, coming out of church, I had an argument with a working man
+upon the matter of religion, in which argument, as I believe, I was the
+victor. I then went on north out of this town and came into a wood of
+enormous size. It was miles and miles across, and the trees were higher
+than anything I have seen outside of California. It was an enchanted
+wood. The sun shone down through a hundred feet of silence by little
+rounds between the leaves, and there was silence everywhere. In this
+wood I sojourned all day long, making slowly westward, till, in the very
+midst of it, I found a troubled man. He was a man of middle age, short,
+intelligent, fat, and weary. He said to me:
+
+"Have you noticed any special mark upon the trees? A white mark of the
+number 90?"
+
+"No," said I. "Are there any wild boars in this forest?"
+
+"Yes," he answered, "a few, but not of use. I am looking for trees
+marked in white with the number 90. I have paid a price for them, and I
+cannot find them."
+
+I saluted him and went on my way. At last I came to an open clearing,
+where there was a town, and in the town I found a very delightful inn,
+where they would cook anything one felt inclined for, within reason, and
+charged one very moderately indeed. I have retained its name.
+
+By this time I was completely lost, and in the heart of Fairyland, when
+suddenly I remembered that everyone that strikes root in Fairyland loses
+something, at the least his love and at the worst his soul, and that it
+is a perilous business to linger there, so I asked them in that hotel
+how they worked it when they wanted to go west into the great towns.
+They put me into an omnibus, which charged me fourpence for a journey of
+some two miles. It took me, as Heaven ordained, to a common great
+railway, and that common great railway took me through the night to the
+town of Dieppe, which I have known since I could speak and before, and
+which was about as much of Fairyland to me as Piccadilly or Monday
+morning.
+
+Thus ended those two days, in which I had touched again the unknown
+places--and all that heaven was but two days, and cost me not fifty
+shillings.
+
+Excuse the folly of this.
+
+
+
+
+The Tide
+
+
+I wish I had been one of those men who first sailed beyond the Pillars
+of Hercules and first saw, as they edged northward along a barbarian
+shore, the slow swinging of the sea. How much, I wonder, did they think
+themselves enlarged? How much did they know that all the civilization
+behind them, the very ancient world of the Mediterranean, was something
+protected and enclosed from which they had escaped into an outer world?
+And how much did they feel that here they were now physically caught by
+the moving tides that bore them in the whole movement of things?
+
+For the tide is of that kind; and the movement of the sea four times
+daily back and forth is a consequence, a reflection, and a part of the
+ceaseless pulse and rhythm which animates all things made and which
+links what seems not living to what certainly lives and feels and has
+power over all movement of its own. The circuits of the planets stretch
+and then recede. Their ellipses elongate and flatten again to the
+semblance of circles. The Poles slowly nod once every many thousand
+years, there is a libration to the moon; and in all this vast harmonious
+process of come and go the units of it twirl and spin, and, as they
+spin, run more gravely in ordered procession round their central star:
+that star moves also to a beat, and all the stars of heaven move each in
+times of its own as well, and their movement is one thing altogether.
+Whoever should receive the mighty business moving in one ear would get
+the music of it in a perfect series of chords, superimposed the one upon
+the other, but not a tremble of them out of tune.
+
+The great scheme is not infinite, for were it infinite such rhythms
+could not be. It was made, and it moves in order to the scheme of its
+making without caprice, not wayward anywhere, but in and out and back
+and forth as to a figure set for it. It must be so, or these exact
+arrangements could not be.
+
+Now with this regulated breathing and expiration, playing itself out in
+a million ways and co-extensive with the universe of things, the tides
+keep time, and they alone of earthly things bring its actual force to
+our physical perception, to our daily life. We see the sea in movement
+and power before us heaving up whatever it may bear, and we feel in an
+immediate way its strong backward sagging when the rocks appear above it
+as it falls. We have our hand on the throb of the current turning in a
+salting river inland between green hills; we are borne upon it bodily as
+we sail, its movement kicks the tiller in our grasp, and the strength
+beneath us and around us, the rush and the compulsion of the stream, its
+silence and as it were its purpose, all represent to us, immediately and
+here, that immeasurable to and fro which rules the skies.
+
+When the Roman soldiers came marching northward with Caesar and first
+saw the shores of ocean: when, after that occupation of Gaul which has
+changed the world, they first mounted guard upon the quays of the Itian
+port under Gris-Nez, or the rocky inlets of the Veneti by St. Malo and
+the Breton reefs, they were appalled to see what for centuries chance
+traders and the few curious travellers, the men of Marseilles and of the
+islands, had seen before them. They saw in numbers and in a corporate
+way what hitherto individuals alone had seen; they saw the sea like a
+living thing, advancing and retreating in an ordered dance, alive with
+deep sighs and intakes, and ceaselessly proceeding about a work and a
+doing which seemed to be the very visible action of an unchanging will
+still pleased with calculated change. It was the presence of the Roman
+army upon the shores of the Channel which brought the Tide into the
+general conscience of Europe, and that experience, I think, was among
+the greatest, perhaps the greatest, of those new things which rushed
+upon the mind of the Empire when it launched itself by the occupation of
+Gaul.
+
+The tide, when it is mentioned in brief historical records of times long
+since, suddenly strikes one with vividness and with familiarity, so that
+the past is introduced at once, presented to us physically, and obtruded
+against our modern senses alive. I know of no other physical thing
+mentioned in this fashion, in chronicle or biography, which has so
+powerful an effect to restore the reality of a dead century.
+
+The Venerable Bede is speaking in one place of Southampton Water, in his
+ecclesiastical history, or, rather, of the Isle of Wight, whence those
+two Princes were baptized and died under Cadwalla. As the historian
+speaks of the place he says:
+
+"In this sea" (which is the Solent) "comes a double tide out of the seas
+which spring from the infinite ocean of the Arctic surrounding all
+Britain."
+
+And he tells us how these double tides rush together and fight together,
+sweeping as they do round either side of the island by the Needles and
+by Spithead into the land-locked sheet within.
+
+Now that passage in Bede's fourth book is more real to me than anything
+in all his chronicle, for in Southampton Water to-day the living thing
+which we still note as we sail is the double tide. You take a falling
+tide at the head of the water, near Southampton Town, and if you are not
+quick with your business it is checked in two hours and you meet a
+strange flood, the second flood, before you have rounded Calshott
+Castle.
+
+Then there is a Charter of Newcastle. Or, rather, the inviolable Customs
+of that town, very old, drawn up nearly eight hundred years ago, but
+beginning from far earlier; and in these customs you find written:
+
+"If a plea shall arise between a burgess and a merchant it must be
+determined before the third flowing of the sea"--that is, within three
+tides; a wise provision! For thus the merchant would not miss the last
+tide of the day after the quarrel. How living it is, a phrase of that
+sort coming in the midst of those other phrases!
+
+All the rest, worse luck, has gone. Burgage-tenure, and the economic
+independence of the humble, and the busy, healthy life of men working to
+enrich themselves, not others, and that corporate association which was
+the blood of the Middle Ages, and the power of popular opinion, and, in
+general, freedom. But out of all these things that have perished, the
+tide remains, and in the eighteen clauses of the Customs, the tidal
+clause alone stands fresh and still has meaning. The capital, great
+clinching clause by which men owned their own land within the town has
+gone utterly and altogether. The modern workman on the Tyne would not
+understand you perhaps, to whom in that very place you should say, "Many
+centuries ago the men that came before you here, your fathers, were not
+working precariously at a wage, or paying rent to others, but living
+under their own roofs and working for themselves." There is only one
+passage in the document that all could understand in Newcastle
+to-day--the very few rich who are hardly secure, the myriads of poor who
+are not secure at all--and that passage is the passage which talks of
+the third tide; for even to-day there is some good we have left
+undestroyed and the sea still ebbs and flows.
+
+This little note of the Newcastle men, and of the flowing and the ebbing
+of their sea, is to be found, you say, in the archives of England? Not
+at all! It is to be found in the Acts of the Parliament of Scotland--at
+least, so my book assures me, but why I do not know. Perhaps of the
+times when between Tyne and Tees, men looked northward and of the times
+when they looked southward (for they alternately did one and the other
+during many hundreds of years) those times when they looked northward
+seemed the more natural to them. Anyhow, the reference is to the Acts of
+the Parliament of Scotland, and that is the end of it.
+
+
+
+
+On a Great Wind
+
+
+It is an old dispute among men, or rather a dispute as old as mankind,
+whether Will be a cause of things or no; nor is there anything novel in
+those moderns who affirm that Will is nothing to the matter, save their
+ignorant belief that their affirmation is new.
+
+The intelligent process whereby I know that Will not seems but is, and
+can alone be truly and ultimately a cause, is fed with stuff and
+strengthens sacramentally as it were, whenever I meet, and am made the
+companion of, a great wind.
+
+It is not that this lively creature of God is indeed perfected with a
+soul; this it would be superstition to believe. It has no more a person
+than any other of its material fellows, but in its vagary of way, in the
+largeness of its apparent freedom, in its rush of purpose, it seems to
+mirror the action of mighty spirit. When a great wind comes roaring over
+the eastern flats towards the North Sea, driving over the Fens and the
+Wringland, it is like something of this island that must go out and
+wrestle with the water, or play with it in a game or a battle; and when,
+upon the western shores, the clouds come bowling up from the horizon,
+messengers, outriders, or comrades of a gale, it is something of the sea
+determined to possess the land. The rising and falling of such power,
+its hesitations, its renewed violence, its fatigue and final repose--all
+these are symbols of a mind; but more than all the rest, its exultation!
+It is the shouting and the hurrahing of the wind that suits a man.
+
+Note you, we have not many friends. The older we grow and the better we
+can sift mankind, the fewer friends we count, although man lives by
+friendship. But a great wind is every man's friend, and its strength is
+the strength of good-fellowship; and even doing battle with it is
+something worthy and well chosen. If there is cruelty in the sea, and
+terror in high places, and malice lurking in profound darkness, there is
+no one of these qualities in the wind, but only power. Here is strength
+too full for such negations as cruelty, as malice, or as fear; and that
+strength in a solemn manner proves and tests health in our own souls.
+For with terror (of the sort I mean--terror of the abyss or panic at
+remembered pain, and in general, a losing grip of the succours of the
+mind), and with malice, and with cruelty, and with all the forms of that
+Evil which lies in wait for men, there is the savour of disease. It is
+an error to think of such things as power set up in equality against
+justice and right living. We were not made for them, but rather for
+influences large and soundly poised; we are not subject to them but to
+other powers that can always enliven and relieve. It is health in us, I
+say, to be full of heartiness and of the joy of the world, and of
+whether we have such health our comfort in a great wind is a good test
+indeed. No man spends his day upon the mountains when the wind is out,
+riding against it or pushing forward on foot through the gale, but at
+the end of his day feels that he has had a great host about him. It is
+as though he had experienced armies. The days of high winds are days of
+innumerable sounds, innumerable in variation of tone and of intensity,
+playing upon and awakening innumerable powers in man. And the days of
+high wind are days in which a physical compulsion has been about us and
+we have met pressure and blows, resisted and turned them; it enlivens us
+with the simulacrum of war by which nations live, and in the just
+pursuit of which men in companionship are at their noblest.
+
+It is pretended sometimes (less often perhaps now than a dozen years
+ago) that certain ancient pursuits congenial to man will be lost to him
+under his new necessities; thus men sometimes talk foolishly of horses
+being no longer ridden, houses no longer built of wholesome wood and
+stone, but of metal; meat no more roasted, but only baked; and even of
+stomachs grown too weak for wine. There is a fashion of saying these
+things, and much other nastiness. Such talk is (thank God!) mere folly;
+for man will always at last tend to his end, which is happiness, and he
+will remember again to do all those things which serve that end. So it
+is with the uses of the wind, and especially the, using of the wind with
+sails.
+
+No man has known the wind by any of its names who has not sailed his own
+boat and felt life in the tiller. Then it is that a man has most to do
+with the wind, plays with it, coaxes or refuses it, is wary of it all
+along; yields when he must yield, but comes up and pits himself again
+against its violence; trains it, harnesses it, calls it if it fails him,
+denounces it if it will try to be too strong, and in every manner
+conceivable handles this glorious playmate.
+
+As for those who say that men did but use the wind as an instrument for
+crossing the sea, and that sails were mere machines to them, either they
+have never sailed or they were quite unworthy of sailing. It is not an
+accident that the tall ships of every age of varying fashions so
+arrested human sight and seemed so splendid. The whole of man went into
+their creation, and they expressed him very well; his cunning, and his
+mastery, and his adventurous heart. For the wind is in nothing more
+capitally our friend than in this, that it has been, since men were men,
+their ally in the seeking of the unknown and in their divine thirst for
+travel which, in its several aspects--pilgrimage, conquest, discovery,
+and, in general, enlargement--is one prime way whereby man fills himself
+with being.
+
+I love to think of those Norwegian men who set out eagerly before the
+north-east wind when it came down from their mountains in the month of
+March like a god of great stature to impel them to the West. They pushed
+their Long Keels out upon the rollers, grinding the shingle of the beach
+at the fjord-head. They ran down the calm narrows, they breasted and
+they met the open sea. Then for days and days they drove under this
+master of theirs and high friend, having the wind for a sort of captain,
+and looking always out to the sea line to find what they could find. It
+was the springtime; and men feel the spring upon the sea even more
+surely than they feel it upon the land. They were men whose eyes, pale
+with the foam, watched for a landfall, that unmistakable good sight
+which the wind brings us to, the cloud that does not change and that
+comes after the long emptiness of sea days like a vision after the
+sameness of our common lives. To them the land they so discovered was
+wholly new.
+
+We have no cause to regret the youth of the world, if indeed the world
+were ever young. When we imagine in our cities that the wind no longer
+calls us to such things, it is only our reading that blinds us, and the
+picture of satiety which our reading breeds is wholly false. Any man
+to-day may go out and take his pleasure with the wind upon the high
+seas. He also will make his landfalls to-day, or in a thousand years;
+and the sight is always the same, and the appetite for such discoveries
+is wholly satisfied even though he be only sailing, as I have sailed,
+over seas that he has known from childhood, and come upon an island far
+away, mapped and well known, and visited for the hundredth time.
+
+
+
+
+The Letter
+
+
+If you ask me why it is now three weeks since I received your letter
+and why it is only today that I answer it, I must tell you the truth
+lest further things I may have to tell you should not be worthy of your
+dignity or of mine. It was because at first I dared not, then later I
+reasoned with myself, and so bred delay, and at last took refuge in more
+delay. I will offer no excuse: I will not tell you that I suffered
+illness, or that some accident of war had taken me away from this old
+house, or that I have but just returned from a journey to my hill and my
+view over the Plain and the great River.
+
+Your messenger I have kept, and I have entertained him well. I looked at
+him a little narrowly at his first coming, thinking perhaps he might be
+a gentleman of yours, but I soon found that he was not such, and that he
+bore no disguise, but was a plain rider of your household. I put him in
+good quarters by the Hunting Stables. He has had nothing to do but to
+await my resolution, which is now at last taken, and which you receive
+in this.
+
+But how shall I begin, or how express to you what not distance but a
+slow and bitter conclusion of the mind has done?
+
+I shall not return to Meudon. I shall not see the woods, the summer
+woods turning to autumn, nor follow the hunt, nor take pleasure again in
+what is still the best of Europe at Versailles. And now that I have said
+it, you must read it so; for I am unalterably determined. Believe me, it
+is something much more deep than courtesy which compels me to give you
+my reasons for this final and irrevocable doom.
+
+We were children together. Though we leant so lightly in our
+conversations of this spring upon all we knew in common, I know your age
+and all your strong early experience--and you know mine. Your mother
+will recall that day's riding when I came back from my first leave and
+you were home, not, I think, for good, from the convent. A fixed
+domestic habit blinded her, so that she could then still see in us no
+more than two children; yet I was proud of my sword, and had it on, and
+you that day were proud of a beauty which could no longer be hidden even
+from yourself; I would then have sacrificed, and would now, all I had or
+was or had or am to have made that beauty immortal.
+
+I say, you remember that day's riding, and how after it the world was
+changed for you and me, and how that same evening the elders saw that it
+was changed.
+
+You will remember that for two years we were not allowed to meet again.
+When the two years were passed we met indeed by a mere accident of that
+rich and tedious life wherein we were both now engaged. I was returned
+from leave before Tournay; you had heard, I think, a false report that I
+had been wounded in the dreadful business at Fontenoy (which to remember
+even now horrifies me a little). I had heard and knew which of the great
+names you now bore by marriage. The next day it was your husband who
+rode with me to Marly. I liked him well enough. I have grown to like him
+better. He is an honest man, though I confess his philosophers weary me.
+When I say "an honest man" I am giving the highest praise I know.
+
+My dear, that was sixteen years ago.
+
+You may not even now understand, so engrossing is the toilsome and
+excited ritual of that rich world at Versailles, how blest you are: your
+children are growing round you: your daughters are beginning to reveal
+your own beauty, and your sons will show in these next years immediately
+before us that temper which in you was a spirit and a height of being,
+and in them, men, will show as plain courage. During that long space of
+years your house has remained well ordered (it was your husband's
+doing). His great fortune and yours have jointly increased: if I may
+tell you so, it is a pleasure to all who understand fitness to know that
+this is so, and that your lineage and his will hold so great a place in
+the State.
+
+As you review those sixteen years you may, if you will--I trust you will
+not--recall those occasions when I saw the woods of Meudon and mixed by
+chance with your world, and when we renewed the rides which had ended
+our childhood. As for me I have not to recall those things. They are,
+alas, myself, and beyond them there is nothing that I can call a memory
+or a being at all. Nevertheless, as I have told you, I shall not come to
+Meudon: I shall not hear again the delightful voices of those many
+friends (now in mid-life as am I) who are my equals at Versailles. I
+shall not see your face.
+
+I did not take service with the Empire from any pique or folly, but from
+a necessity for adventure and for the refounding of my house. It might
+have chanced that I should marry: the land demanded an heir. My
+impoverishment weighed upon me like an ill deed, for all this belt of
+land is dependent upon the old house, which I can with such difficulty
+retain and from which I write to-day. I spent all those years in the
+service of the Empire (and even of Russia) from no uncertain temper and
+from no imaginary quarrel. It is so common or so necessary for men and
+women to misjudge each other that I believe you thought me wayward, or
+at least unstable. If you did so you did me a wrong. Those two good
+seasons when we met again, and this last of but a month ago, were not
+accidents or fitful recoveries. They were all I possessed in my life and
+all that will perish with me when I die.
+
+But now, to tell you the very core of my decision, it is this: The years
+that pass carry with them an increasing weight at once sombre and
+majestic. There are things belonging to youth which habit continues
+strangely longer than the season to which they properly belong: if, when
+we discover them to be too prolonged as cling to their survival, why,
+then, we eat dust. So long as we possess the illusion and so long as the
+dearest things of youth maintain unchanged, in one chamber of our life
+at least, our twentieth year, so long all is well. But there is a cold
+river which we must pass in our advance towards nothingness and age. In
+the passage of that stream we change: and you and I have passed it.
+There is no more endurance in that young mood of ours than in any other
+human thing. One always wakes from it at last. One sees what it is. The
+soul sees and counts with hard eyes the price at which a continuance of
+such high dreams must be purchased, and the heart has a prevision of the
+evil that the happy cheat will work as maturity is reached by each of
+us, and as each of us fully takes on the burden of the world.
+
+Therefore I must not return.
+
+Foolishly and without thinking of real things, acting as though indeed
+that life of dream and of illusion were still possible to me, I
+yesterday cut with great care a rose, one from the many that have now
+grown almost wild upon the great wall overlooking the Danube. Then ... I
+could not but smile to myself when I remembered how by the time that
+rose should have reached you every petal would be wasted and fallen in
+the long week's ride. There is a fixed term of life for roses also as
+for men. I do not cite this to you by way of parable. I have no heart
+for tricks of the pen to-night; but the two images came together, and
+you will understand. If I do not return, it is for the same reason that
+I could not send the rose.
+
+
+
+
+The Regret
+
+
+Everybody knows, I suppose, that kind of landscape in which hills seem
+to lie in a regular manner, fold on fold, one range behind the other,
+until, at last, behind them all some higher and grander range dominates
+and frames the whole.
+
+The infinite variety of light and air and accident of soil provide all
+men save those who live in the great plains with examples of this sort.
+The traveller in the dry air of California or of Spain, watching great
+distances from the heights, will recollect such landscapes all his life.
+They were the reward of his long ascents and the visions which attended
+his effort as he climbed up to the ridge of his horizon. Such a
+landscape does a man see from the Western edges of the Guadarrama,
+looking eastward and south toward the very distant hills that guard
+Toledo and the Gulf of the Tagus. Such a landscape does a man see at
+sunrise from the highest of the Cevennes looking right eastward to the
+dawn as it comes up in the pure and cold air beyond the Alps, and shows
+you the falling of the foothills to the Rhone. And by such a landscape
+is a man gladdened when upon the escarpments of the Tuolumne he turns
+back and looks westward over the plain towards the vast range.
+
+The experience of such a sight is one peculiar in travel, or, for that
+matter, if a man is lucky enough to enjoy it at home, insistent and
+reiterated upon the mind of the home-dwelling man. Such a landscape, for
+instance, makes a man praise God if his house is upon the height of
+Mendip, and he can look over falling hills right over the Vale of Severn
+toward the ridge above ridge of the Welsh solemnities beyond, until the
+straight line and high of the Black Mountains ends his view.
+
+It is the character of these landscapes to suggest at once a vastness,
+diversity, and seclusion. When a man comes upon them unexpectedly he can
+forget the perpetual toil of men and imagine that those who dwell below
+in the near side before him are exempt from the necessities of this
+world. When such a landscape is part of a man's dwelling-place, though
+he well knows that the painful life of men within those hills is the
+same hard business that it is throughout the world, yet his knowledge is
+modified and comforted by the permanent glory of the thing he sees.
+
+The distant and high range that bounds his view makes a sort of veiling,
+cutting it off and guarding it from whatever may be beyond. The
+succession of lower ranges suggests secluded valleys, and the reiterated
+woods, distant and more distant, convey an impression of fertility more
+powerful than that of corn in harvest upon the lowlands.
+
+Sometimes it is a whole province that is thus grasped by the eye,
+sometimes in the summer haze but a few miles; always this scenery
+inspires the onlooker with a sense of completion and of repose, and at
+the same time, I think, with worship and with awe.
+
+Now one such group of valleys there was, hill above hill, forest above
+forest, and beyond it a great noble range, unwooded and high against
+heaven, guarding it, which I for my part knew when first I knew anything
+of this world. There is a high place under fir trees, a place of sand
+and bracken, in South England whence such a view was always present to
+eye in childhood and "There," said I to myself (even in childhood) "a
+man should make his habitation." In those valleys is the proper off-set
+for man.
+
+And so there was.
+
+It was a little place which had grown up as my county grows. The house
+throwing out arms and layers. One room was panelled in the oak of the
+seventeenth century--but that had been a novelty in its time, for the
+walls upon which the panels stood were of the late fifteenth, oak and
+brick intermingled. Another room was large and light built in the manner
+of one hundred and fifty years ago, which people call Georgian. It had
+been thrown out south (which is quite against our older custom, for our
+older houses looked east and west to take all the sun and to present a
+corner to the south-west and the storms. So they stand still). It had
+round it a solid cornice which the modern men of the towns would have
+called ugly, but there was ancestry in it. Then, further on this house
+had modern roominess stretching in one new wing after another; and it
+had a great steading and there was a copse and some six acres of land.
+Over a deep ravine looked the little town that was the mother of the
+place, and altogether it was enclosed, silent, and secure.
+
+"The fish that misses the hook regrets the worm." If this is not a
+Chinese proverb it ought to be. That little farm and steading and those
+six acres, that ravine, those trees, that aspect of the little mothering
+town; the wooded hills fold above fold, the noble range beyond, will not
+be mine.
+
+For all I know, some man quite unacquainted with that land took them
+grumbling for a debt; or again, for all I know, they may have been
+bought by a blind man who could not see the hills, or by some man who,
+seeing them, perpetually regretted the flat marshes of the fens. One
+day, up high on Egdean Side, not thinking of such things, through a gap
+in the trees I saw again after so many years, set one behind the other,
+the forests wave upon wave, the summer heat, the high, bare range
+guarding all, and in the midst of that landscape, set like a toy, the
+little Sabine Farm.
+
+Then I said to it, "Continue. Go and serve whom you will, my little
+Sabine Farm. You were not mine because you would not be, and you are not
+mine at all to-day. You will regret it perhaps, and perhaps you will
+not. There was verse in you, perhaps, or prose, or--infinitely
+more!--contentment for a man (for all I know). But you refused. You lost
+your chance. Goodbye." And with that I went on into the wood and beyond
+the gap, and saw the sight no more.
+
+It was ten years since I had seen it last. It may be ten years before I
+see it again, or it may be for ever. But as I went through the woods
+saying to myself:
+
+"You lost your chance, my little Sabine Farm, you lost your chance!"
+another part of me at once replied:
+
+"Ah! And so did _you_!"
+
+Then, by way of riposte, I answered in my mind:
+
+"Not at all, for the chance I never had, but what I lost was my desire."
+
+"No, not your desire," said the voice to me within, "but the fulfilment
+of it, in which you would have lost your desire." And when that reply
+came I naturally turned as all men do on hearing such interior replies,
+to a general consideration of regret, and was prepared, if any honest
+publisher should have come whistling through that wood, with an offer
+proper to the occasion, namely, to produce no less than five volumes on
+the Nature of Regret, its mortal sting, its bitter-sweetness, its power
+to keep alive in man the pure passions of the soul, its hints at
+immortality, its memory of Heaven. But the wood was empty of publishers.
+The offer did not come. The moment was lost. The five volumes will
+hardly now be written. In place of them I offer poor this, which you may
+take or leave. But I beg leave before I end to cite certain words very
+nobly attached to that great inn "The Griffin," which has its foundation
+set far off in another place, in the town of March, in the Fen Land:
+
+"England my desire, what have you not refused?"
+
+
+
+
+The End Of The World
+
+
+One day I met a man who was sitting quite silent near Whitney, in the
+Thames Valley, in a very large, long, low inn that stands in those
+parts, or at least stood then, for whether it stands now or not depends
+upon the Fussyites, whose business it is to Fuss, and in their Fussing
+to disturb mankind.
+
+He had nothing to say for himself at all, and he looked not gloomy but
+sad. He was tall and thin, with high cheekbones. His face was the colour
+of leather that has been some time in the weather, and he despised us
+altogether: he would not say a word to us, until one of the company
+said, rising from his meat and drink: "Very well, there's a thing we
+shall never know till the end of the world" (he was talking about some
+discussion or other which the young men had been holding together).
+"There's a thing we shall never know till the end of the world--and
+about that nobody knows!"
+
+"You will pardon me," said the tall, thin, and elderly man with a face
+like leather that has been exposed to the weather, "I know about the End
+of the World, for I have been there."
+
+This was so interesting that we all sat down again to listen.
+
+"I wasn't talking of place, but of time," murmured the young man whom
+the stranger had answered.
+
+"I cannot help that," said the stranger decisively; "the End of the
+World is the End of the World, and whether you are talking of space or
+of time it does not matter, for when you have got to the end you have
+got to the end, as may be proved in several ways."
+
+"How did you get to it?" said one of our companions.
+
+"That is very simply answered," said the elder man; "you get to it by
+walking straight in front of you."
+
+"Anyone could do that," said the other.
+
+"Anyone could," said the elder man, "but nobody does. I did.... When I
+was quite a boy in my father's parsonage (for my father was a parson),
+having heard so much about the End of the World and seeing that people's
+descriptions of it differed so much and that everybody was quite sure of
+his own, I used to take my father's friends and guests aside privately,
+for I was afraid to take my father himself, and I used to ask them how
+they knew what the End of the World was really like, and whether they
+had seen it. Some laughed, others were silent, and others were angry;
+but no one gave me any information. At last I decided (and it was very
+wise of me) that the only way to find out a thing of that sort was to
+find it out for one's self, and not to go by hearsay, so I determined to
+go straight on without stopping until I got to the End of the World."
+
+"Which way did you walk?" said yet another of my companions.
+
+"Young man," said the stranger, with solemnity, "I walked westward
+toward the setting sun ... I walked and I walked and I walked, day after
+day and year after year. Whenever I came to the seacoast I would take
+work on board a ship--and remember it is always easy to get work if you
+will take the wages that are offered, and always difficult to get it if
+you will not. Well, then, I went in this way through all known lands and
+over all known seas, until at last I came to the shore of a sea beyond
+which (so the people told me who lived there) there was no further
+shore. 'I cannot help that,' said I; 'I have not yet come to the End of
+the World, and it is common sense that such a lot of water must have
+something at the back of it to hold it up; besides which there is a
+strong wind blowing out of the gates of the west and from the sunset.
+Now that wind must rise somewhere, and I am going on to see where it
+rises.' One of them was kind enough to lend me a boat with oars; I
+thanked him prettily, and then I set out to row toward the End of the
+World, taking with me two or three days' provisions.
+
+"When I had rowed a long time I went asleep, and when I woke up next
+morning I rowed again all day until the second night I went to sleep. On
+the third day I rowed again: a little before sunset on the third day I
+saw before me high hills, all in peaks like a great saw. On the very
+highest of the peaks there were streaks of snow, and at about six
+o'clock in the afternoon I grounded my boat upon that gravelly shore and
+pulled it up upon the shingle, though it was evident either that the
+tide was high or that there was no tide in these silent places.
+
+"I offered up a prayer to the genius of the land, and tied the painter
+of the boat to two great stones, so that no wave reaching it might move
+it, and then I went on inland. When I had gone a little way I saw a
+signpost on which was written, 'To the End of the World One Mile' and
+there was a rough track along which it pointed. I went along this track.
+Everything was completely silent. There were no birds, there was no wind,
+there was nothing in the sky. But one thing I did notice, which was that
+the sun was much larger than it used to be, and that as I went along this
+last mile or so it seemed to get larger still--but that may have been my
+imagination, for I must tell you my imagination is pretty strong.
+
+"Well then, gentlemen, when I had gone a mile or so I saw another
+signpost, on which there was a large board marked 'Danger,' and a
+hundred yards beyond the track went between two great dark rocks--and
+there I was! The road had stopped short; it was broken off, jagged, just
+like a torn bit of paper ... and there was the End of the World."
+
+"How do you mean?" said one of the younger men in an awed tone.
+
+"What I say," said the stranger decidedly. "I had come to the end; there
+was nothing beyond. You looked down over a precipice where there was
+moss and steep grass, and on the ledges trees far below, and then more
+precipice, and then--oh, miles below--a few more trees or so clinging to
+the steep, then more precipice, and then darkness; and far away before
+me was the whole expanse of sky; and in the midst of it I saw the broad
+red sun setting into the brume; it was not yet dark enough to see the
+stars, and there was no moon in the sky.
+
+"I assure you it was a very wonderful sight, and I was awed though I was
+not afraid. And how glad I was to find that the world had an edge to it,
+and that all that talk about its being round was nonsense!
+
+"When the sun was set it grew dark, and I returned to find my boat; but
+I must have missed my way, for the track became broader and better, and
+at last I came to a gate of a human sort, with an initial on it, which
+showed that it had been put up by some landlord. It was an open gate,
+and after I had entered it I came upon a broad highway, beautifully
+metalled, and when I had gone along this for less than half a mile I
+came to this inn where I am now sitting. That was a week ago, and I have
+been here ever since. They took me in kindly enough, but they would not
+believe what I had to tell them about the End of the World. It is a
+great pity, gentlemen, for that wonderful sight is to be discovered
+somewhere hereabouts, and a mere accident of my losing my way in the
+darkness makes it difficult for me to find it by daylight."
+
+Having said all this, the stranger was silent.
+
+One of my companions whispered to me that the old man must be mad. The
+stranger overheard him, and said with a thin smile:
+
+"Oh, I know all about that; several have suggested it already; but it is
+no answer, for if I did not come from the End of the World, where did I
+come from? No one has seen me hereabouts during the last few days until
+I came to this inn. And all the first part of my journey I can very
+easily explain, for I have notes of it, and it lasted for years. It is
+only this last part which seems to me so difficult.... I tell you I lost
+my way, and when a man has lost his way at night he can never find it
+again in the daytime."
+
+As he spoke he took a little piece of folded paper, rather dirty, out of
+his inner pocket, on which a rough sketch-map was drawn, and he began
+touching it with a stump of pencil that he held in his hand. His eyes
+seemed to grow dimmer as he did so, and he leaned his head upon his
+hand. "I think I have got hold of it, gentlemen," he said.
+
+We did not get up or go too near him, for we thought he might be
+dangerous.
+
+"I think, gentlemen," he repeated in a more mumbling and lower and less
+certain voice, "I think I have got hold of it. I go backwards again
+through the gate to the right, just as then I went to the left, and
+after that it cannot be very far, for I see those two rocks in front of
+me. Besides which," he muttered less and less coherently, "I ought to
+have remembered of course those very high and silent hills with nothing
+living upon them...." And he added, half asleep, as his head dropped
+upon his hand, "It was westward.... I had forgotten that."
+
+Having so spoken, he seemed to fall asleep altogether, and his head fell
+back upon the corner of the wainscoting behind the bench where he sat.
+He made no noise in breathing as he slept.
+
+It was the first time that any of us young men had come across this
+fairly common sight of a man who took things within for things without;
+some of us were frightened, and all of us wished to be rid of the place
+and to get away. As we went out we told the landlord nothing either of
+the old fellow's vagaries or of his sleep, but we went out and reached
+the town of Whitney, and when we had stayed there a couple of hours or
+so we went out southward to the station and waited there for the train
+which should take us back to Oxford.
+
+While we were waiting there in the station two farmers were talking
+together. One said to the other:
+
+"Ar, if he'd paid them they wouldn't have minded so much."
+
+To which the other answered:
+
+"Ar, 'tisn't only the paying: it's always an awkward thing when a man
+dies in your house, specially if it's licensed. My wife's brother was
+caught that way."
+
+Then as they went on talking we found that they were talking of the man
+in the inn, who it seems had not slept very long, but was dead, and had
+died in that same room. It was a shocking thing to hear. The first
+farmer said to the second in the railway carriage when we had all got
+in:
+
+"Where'd he come from?"
+
+The other, who was an old man, grinned and said:
+
+"Where we all come from, I suppose, and where we all go to." He touched
+his forehead with his hand. "He said he'd come from the End of the
+World."
+
+"Ar," said the other gloomily in answer, "like enough!" And after that
+they talked no more about the matter.
+
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, FIRST AND LAST ***
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of First and Last, by H. Belloc
+
+Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the
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+*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!*****
+
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+Title: First and Last
+
+Author: H. Belloc
+
+Release Date: January, 2005 [EBook #7352]
+[This file was first posted on April 19, 2003]
+
+Edition: 10
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO Latin-1
+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, FIRST AND LAST ***
+
+
+
+
+Tonya Allen, Eric Eldred, Charles Franks, and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+FIRST AND LAST
+
+BY
+
+H. BELLOC
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+ON WEIGHING ANCHOR
+
+THE REVEILLON
+
+ON CHEESES
+
+THE CAPTAIN OF INDUSTRY
+
+THE INVENTOR
+
+THE VIEWS OF ENGLAND
+
+THE LUNATIC
+
+THE INHERITANCE OF HUMOUR
+
+THE OLD GENTLEMAN'S OPINIONS
+
+ON HISTORICAL EVIDENCE
+
+THE ABSENCE OF THE PAST
+
+ST. PATRICK
+
+THE LOST THINGS
+
+ON THE READING OF HISTORY
+
+THE VICTORY
+
+REALITY
+
+ON THE DECLINE OF THE BOOK
+
+JOS MARIA DE HEREDIA
+
+NORMANDY AND THE NORMANS
+
+THE OLD THINGS
+
+THE BATTLE OF HASTINGS
+
+THE ROMAN ROADS IN PICARDY
+
+THE REWARD OF LETTERS
+
+THE EYE-OPENERS
+
+THE PUBLIC
+
+ON ENTRIES
+
+COMPANIONS OF TRAVEL
+
+ON THE SOURCES OF RIVERS
+
+ON ERROR
+
+THE GREAT SIGHT
+
+THE DECLINE OF A STATE
+
+ON PAST GREATNESS
+
+MR. THE DUKE: THE MAN OF MALPLAQUET
+
+THE GAME OF CARDS
+
+"KING LEAR"
+
+THE EXCURSION
+
+THE TIDE
+
+ON A GREAT WIND
+
+THE LETTER
+
+THE REGRET
+
+THE END OF THE WORLD
+
+
+
+
+FIRST AND LAST
+
+
+
+
+On Weighing Anchor
+
+
+Personally I should call it "Getting It up," but I have always seen it
+in print called "weighing anchor"--and if it is in print one must bow to
+it. It does weigh.
+
+There are many ways of doing it. The best, like all good things, has
+gone for ever, and this best way was for a thing called a capstan to
+have sticking out from it, movable, and fitted into its upper rim, other
+things called capstan--bars. These, men would push singing a song, while
+on the top of the capstan sat a man playing the fiddle, or the flute, or
+some other instrument of music. You and I have seen it in pictures. Our
+sons will say that they wish they had seen it in pictures. Our sons'
+sons will say it is all a lie and was never in anything but the
+pictures, and they will explain it by some myth or other.
+
+Another way is to take two turns of a rope round a donkey-engine, paying
+in and coiling while the engine clanks. And another way on smaller boats
+is a sort of jack arrangement by which you give little jerks to a
+ratchet and wheel, and at last It looses Its hold. Sometimes (in this
+last way) It will not loose Its hold at all.
+
+Then there is a way of which I proudly boast that it is the only way I
+know, which is to go forward and haul at the line until It comes--or
+does not come. If It does not come, you will not be so cowardly or so
+mean as to miss your tide for such a trifle. You will cut the line and
+tie a float on and pray Heaven that into whatever place you run, that
+place will have moorings ready and free.
+
+When a man weighs anchor in a little ship or a large one he does a jolly
+thing! He cuts himself off and he starts for freedom and for the chance
+of things. He pulls the jib a-weather, he leans to her slowly pulling
+round, he sees the wind getting into the mainsail, and he feels that she
+feels the helm. He has her on a slant of the wind, and he makes out
+between the harbour piers. I am supposing, for the sake of good luck,
+that it is not blowing bang down the harbour mouth, nor, for the matter
+of that, bang out of it. I am supposing, for the sake of good luck to
+this venture, that in weighing anchor you have the wind so that you can
+sail with it full and by, or freer still, right past the walls until you
+are well into the tide outside. You may tell me that you are so rich and
+your boat is so big that there have been times when you have anchored in
+the very open, and that all this does not apply to you. Why, then, your
+thoughts do not apply to me nor to the little boat I have in mind.
+
+In the weighing of anchor and the taking of adventure and of the sea
+there is an exact parallel to anything that any man can do in the
+beginning of any human thing, from his momentous setting out upon his
+life in early manhood to the least decision of his present passing day.
+It is a very proper emblem of a beginning. It may lead him to that kind
+of muddle and set-back which attaches only to beginnings, or it may get
+him fairly into the weather, and yet he may find, a little way outside,
+that he has to run for it, or to beat back to harbour. Or, more
+generously, it may lead him to a long and steady cruise in which he
+shall find profit and make distant rivers and continue to increase his
+log by one good landfall after another. But the whole point of weighing
+anchor is that he has chosen his weather and his tide, and that he is
+setting out. The thing is done.
+
+You will very commonly observe that, in land affairs, if good fortune
+follows a venture it is due to the marvellous excellence of its
+conductor, but if ill fortune, then to evil chance alone. Now, it is not
+so with the sea.
+
+The sea drives truth into a man like salt. A coward cannot long pretend
+to be brave at sea, nor a fool to be wise, nor a prig to be a good
+companion, and any venture connected with the sea is full of venture and
+can pretend to be nothing more. Nevertheless there is a certain pride in
+keeping a course through different weathers, in making the best of a
+tide, in using cats' paws in a dull race, and, generally, in knowing how
+to handle the thing you steer and to judge the water and the wind. Just
+because men have to tell the truth once they get into tide water, what
+little is due to themselves in their success thereon they are proud of
+and acknowledge.
+
+If your sailing venture goes well, sailing reader, take a just pride in
+it; there will be the less need for me to write, some few years hence,
+upon the art of picking up moorings, though I confess I would rather
+have written on that so far as the fun of writing was concerned. For
+picking up moorings is a far more tricky and amusing business than
+Getting It up. It differs with every conceivable circumstance of wind,
+and tide, and harbour, and rig, and freeboard, and light; and then there
+are so many stories to tell about it! As--how once a poor man picked up
+a rich man's moorings at Cowes and was visited by an aluminium boat, all
+splendid in the morning sun. Or again--how a stranger who had made
+Orford Haven (that very difficult place) on the very top of an
+equinoctial springtide, picked up a racing mark-buoy, taking it to be
+moorings, and dragged it with him all the way to Aldborough, and that
+right before the town of Orford, so making himself hateful to the Orford
+people.
+
+But I digress....
+
+
+
+
+The Reveillon
+
+
+There was in the regiment with which I served a man called Frocot,
+famous with his comrades because he had seen The Dead, for this
+experience, though common among the Scotch, is rare among the French, a
+sister nation. This man Frocot could neither write nor read, and was
+also the strongest man I ever knew. He was quite short and exceedingly
+broad, and he could break a penny with his hands, but this gift of
+strength, though young men value it so much, was thought little of
+compared with his perception of unseen things, for though the men, who
+were peasants, professed to laugh at it, and him, in their hearts they
+profoundly believed. It had been made clear to us that he could see and
+hear The Dead one night in January during a snowstorm, when he came in
+and woke me in barrack-room because he had heard the Loose Spur. Our
+spurs were not buckled on like the officers'; they were fixed into the
+heel of the boot, and if a nail loosened upon either side the spur
+dragged with an unmistakable noise. There was a sergeant who (for some
+reason) had one so loosened on the last night he had ever gone the
+rounds before his death, for in the morning as he came off guard he
+killed himself, and the story went about among the drivers that
+sometimes on stable guard in the thick of the night, when you watched
+all alone by the lantern (with your three comrades asleep in the straw
+of an empty stall), your blood would stop and your skin tauten at the
+sound of a loose spur dragging on the far side of the stable, in the
+dark. But though many had heard the story, and though some had pretended
+to find proof for it, I never knew a man to feel and know it except this
+man Frocot on that night. I remember him at the foot of my bed with his
+lantern waking me from the rooted sleep of bodily fatigue, standing
+there in his dark blue driver's coat and staring with terrible eyes. He
+had undoubtedly heard and seen, but whether of himself from within,
+imagining, or, as I rather believe, from without and influenced, it is
+impossible to say. He was rough and poor, and he came from the Forest of
+Ardennes.
+
+The reason I remember him and write of him at this season is not,
+however, this particular and dreadful visitation of his, but a folly or
+a vision that befell him at this time of the year, now seventeen years
+ago; for he had Christmas leave and was on his way from garrison to his
+native place, and he was walking the last miles of the wood. It was the
+night before Christmas. It was clear, and there was no wind, but the sky
+was overcast with level clouds and the evening was very dark. He started
+unfed since the first meal of the day; it was dark three hours before he
+was up into the high wood. He met no one during all these miles, and his
+body and his mind were lonely; he hoped to press on and be at his
+father's door before two in the morning or perhaps at one. The night was
+so still that he heard no noise in the high wood, not even the rustling
+of a leaf or a twig crackling, and no animal ran in the undergrowth. The
+moss of the ride was silent under his heavy tread, but now and then the
+steel of his side-arm clicked against a metal button of the great cloak
+he wore. This sharp sound made him so conscious of himself that he
+seemed to fill that forest with his own presence and to be all that was,
+there or elsewhere. He was in a mood of unreal and not holy things. The
+mood, remaining, changed its aspect, and now he was so far from alone
+that all the trunks around him and the glimmers of sky between bare
+boughs held each a spirit of its own, and with the powerful imagination
+of the unlearned he could have spoken and held communion with the trees;
+but it would have an evil communion, for he felt this mood of his take
+on a further phase as he went deeper and deeper still into these
+forests. He felt about him uneasily the sense of doom. He was in that
+exaltation of fancy or dream when faint appeals are half heard far off,
+but not by our human ears, and when whatever attempts to pierce the
+armour of our mortality appeals to us by wailing and by despairing
+sighs. It seemed to him that most unhappy things passed near him in the
+air, and that the wood about him was full of sobbing. Then, again, he
+felt his own mind within him begin to be occupied by doubtful troubles
+worse than these terrors, an anxious straining for ill news, for bitter
+and dreadful news, mixed with a confused certitude that such news had
+come indeed, disturbed and haunted him; and all the while about him in
+that stillness the rushing of unhappy spirits went like a secret storm.
+He was clouded with the mingled emotions of apprehension and of fatal
+mourning; he attempted to remember the expectations that had failed him,
+friends untrue, and the names of parents dead; but he was now the victim
+of this strange night and unable (whether from hunger or fatigue, or
+from that unique power of his to discern things beyond the world) to
+remember his life or his definite aims at all, or even his own name. He
+was mixed with the whole universe about him, and was suffering some loss
+so grievous that very soon the gait of his march and his whole being
+were informed by a large and final despair.
+
+It was in this great and universal mood (granted to him as a seer,
+though he was a common man) that he saw down the ride, but somewhat to
+one side of it in the heart of the high wood, a great light shining from
+a barn or shed that stood there in the undergrowth, and to this light,
+though his way naturally led him to it, he felt also impelled by an
+influence as strong as or stronger than the despair that had filled his
+soul and all the woods around. He went on therefore quickly, straining
+with his eyes, and when he came into the light that shone out from this
+he saw a more brilliant light within, and men of his own kind adoring;
+but the vision was confused, like light on light or like vapours moving
+over bright metals in a cauldron, and as he gazed his mind became still
+and the dread left him altogether. He said it was like shutting a
+gentleman's great oaken door against a driving storm.
+
+This is the story he told me weeks after as we rode together in the
+battery, for he hid it in his heart till the spring. As I say, I
+believed him.
+
+He was an unlearned man and a strong; he never worshipped. He was of
+that plain stuff and clay on which has worked since all recorded time
+the power of the Spirit.
+
+He said that when he left (as he did rapidly leave) that light, peace
+also left him, but that the haunting terror did not return. He found the
+clearing and his father's hut; fatigue and the common world indeed
+returned, but with them a permanent memory of things experienced.
+
+Every word I have written of him is true.
+
+
+
+
+On Cheeses
+
+
+If antiquity be the test of nobility, as many affirm and none deny
+(saving, indeed, that family which takes for its motto "Sola Virtus
+Nobilitas," which may mean that virtue is the only nobility, but which
+may also mean, mark you, that nobility is the only virtue--and anyhow
+denies that nobility is tested by the lapse of time), _if_, I say,
+antiquity be the only test of nobility, then cheese is a very noble
+thing.
+
+But wait a moment: there was a digression in that first paragraph which
+to the purist might seem of a complicated kind.
+
+Were I writing algebra (I wish I were) I could have analysed my thoughts
+by the use of square brackets, round brackets, twiddly brackets, and the
+rest, all properly set out in order so that a Common Fool could follow
+them.
+
+But no such luck! I may not write of algebra here; for there is a rule
+current in all newspapers that no man may write upon any matter save
+upon those in which he is more learned than all his human fellows that
+drag themselves so slowly daily forward to the grave.
+
+So I had to put the thing in the very common form of a digression, and
+very nearly to forget that great subject of cheese which I had put at
+the very head and title of this.
+
+Which reminds me: had I followed the rule set down by a London
+journalist the other day (and of the proprietor of his paper I will say
+nothing--though I might have put down the remark to his proprietor) I
+would have hesitated to write that first paragraph. I would have
+hesitated, did I say? Griffins' tails! Nay--Hippogriffs and other things
+of the night! I would not have dared to write it at all! For this
+journalist made a law and promulgated it, and the law was this: that no
+man should write that English which could not be understood if all the
+punctuation were left out. Punctuation, I take it, includes brackets,
+which the Lord of Printers knows are a very modern part of punctuation
+indeed.
+
+Now let the horripilised reader look up again at the first paragraph (it
+will do him no harm), and think how it would look all written out in
+fair uncials like the beautiful Gospels of St. Chad, which anyone may
+see for nothing in the cathedral of Lichfield, an English town famous
+for eight or nine different things: as Garrick, Doctor Johnson, and its
+two opposite inns. Come, read that first paragraph over now and see what
+you could make of it if it were written out in uncials--that is, not
+only without punctuation, but without any division between the words.
+Wow! As the philosopher said when he was asked to give a plain answer
+"Yes" or "No."
+
+And now to cheese. I have had quite enough of digressions and of
+follies. They are the happy youth of an article. They are the springtime
+of it. They are its riot. I am approaching the middle age of this
+article. Let us be solid upon the matter of cheese.
+
+I have premised its antiquity, which is of two sorts, as is that of a
+nobleman. First, the antiquity of its lineage; secondly, the antiquity
+of its self. For we all know that when we meet a nobleman we revere his
+nobility very much if he be himself old, and that this quality of age in
+him seems to marry itself in some mysterious way with the antiquity of
+his line.
+
+The lineage of cheese is demonstrably beyond all record. What did the
+faun in the beginning of time when a god surprised him or a mortal had
+the misfortune to come across him in the woods? It is well known that
+the faun offered either of them cheese. So he knew how to make it.
+
+There are certain bestial men, hangers-on of the Germans, who would
+contend that this would prove cheese to be acquired by the Aryan race
+(or what not) from the Dolichocephalics (or what not), and there are
+certain horrors who descend to imitate these barbarians--though
+themselves born in these glorious islands, which are so steep upon their
+western side. But I will not detain you upon these lest I should fall
+head foremost into another digression and forget that my article,
+already in its middle age, is now approaching grey hairs.
+
+At any rate, cheese is very old. It is beyond written language. Whether
+it is older than butter has been exhaustively discussed by several
+learned men, to whom I do not send you because the road towards them
+leads elsewhere. It is the universal opinion of all most accustomed to
+weigh evidence (and in these I very properly include not only such
+political hacks as are already upon the bench but sweepingly every
+single lawyer in Parliament, since any one of them may tomorrow be a
+judge) that milk is older than cheese, and that man had the use of milk
+before he cunningly devised the trick of squeezing it in a press and by
+sacrificing something of its sweetness endowed it with a sort of
+immortality.
+
+The story of all this has perished. Do not believe any man who professes
+to give it you. If he tells you some legend of a god who taught the
+Wheat-eating Race, the Ploughers, and the Lords to make cheese, tell him
+such tales are true symbols, but symbols only. If he tells you that
+cheese was an evolution and a development, oh! then!--bring up your
+guns! Open on the fellow and sweep his intolerable lack of intelligence
+from the earth. Ask him if he discovers reality to be a function of
+time, and Being to hide in clockwork. Keep him on the hop with ironical
+comments upon how it may be that environment can act upon Will, while
+Will can do nothing with environment--whose proper name is mud. Pester
+the provincial. Run him off the field.
+
+But about cheese. Its noble antiquity breeds in it a noble diffusion.
+
+This happy Christendom of ours (which is just now suffering from an
+indigestion and needs a doctor--but having also a complication of
+insomnia cannot recollect his name) has been multifarious
+incredibly--but in nothing more than in cheese!
+
+One cheese differs from another, and the difference is in sweeps, and in
+landscapes, and in provinces, and in countrysides, and in climates, and
+in principalities, and in realms, and in the nature of things. Cheese
+does most gloriously reflect the multitudinous effect of earthly things,
+which could not be multitudinous did they not proceed from one mind.
+
+Consider the cheese of Rocquefort: how hard it is in its little box.
+Consider the cheese of Camembert, which is hard also, and also lives in
+a little box, but must not be eaten until it is soft and yellow.
+Consider the cheese of Stilton, which is not made there, and of Cheddar,
+which is. Then there is your Parmesan, which idiots buy rancid in
+bottles, but which the wise grate daily for their use: you think it is
+hard from its birth? You are mistaken. It is the world that hardens the
+Parmesan. In its youth the Parmesan is very soft and easy, and is
+voraciously devoured.
+
+Then there is your cheese of Wensleydale, which is made in Wensleydale,
+and your little Swiss cheese, which is soft and creamy and eaten with
+sugar, and there is your Cheshire cheese and your little Cornish cheese,
+whose name escapes me, and your huge round cheese out of the Midlands,
+as big as a fort whose name I never heard. There is your toasted or
+Welsh cheese, and your cheese of Pont-l'evque, and your white cheese of
+Brie, which is a chalky sort of cheese. And there is your cheese of
+Neufchatel, and there is your Gorgonzola cheese, which is mottled all
+over like some marbles, or like that Mediterranean soap which is made of
+wood-ash and of olive oil. There is your Gloucester cheese called the
+Double Gloucester, and I have read in a book of Dunlop cheese, which is
+made in Ayrshire: they could tell you more about it in Kilmarnock. Then
+Suffolk makes a cheese, but does not give it any name; and talking of
+that reminds me how going to Le Quesnoy to pass the people there the
+time of day, and to see what was left of that famous but forgotten
+fortress, a young man there showed me a cheese, which he told me also
+had no name, but which was native to the town, and in the valley of Ste.
+Engrace, where is that great wood which shuts off all the world, they
+make their cheese of ewe's milk and sell it in Tardets, which is their
+only livelihood. They make a cheese in Port-Salut which is a very subtle
+cheese, and there is a cheese of Limburg, and I know not how many
+others, or rather I know them, but you have had enough: for a little
+cheese goes a long way. No man is a glutton on cheese.
+
+What other cheese has great holes in it like Gruyere, or what other is
+as round as a cannon-ball like that cheese called Dutch? which reminds
+me:--
+
+Talking of Dutch cheese. Do you not notice how the intimate mind of
+Europe is reflected in cheese? For in the centre of Europe, and where
+Europe is most active, I mean in Britain and in Gaul and in Northern
+Italy, and in the valley of the Rhine--nay, to some extent in Spain (in
+her Pyrenean valleys at least)--there flourishes a vast burgeoning of
+cheese, infinite in variety, one in goodness. But as Europe fades away
+under the African wound which Spain suffered or the Eastern barbarism of
+the Elbe, what happens to cheese? It becomes very flat and similar. You
+can quote six cheeses perhaps which the public power of Christendom has
+founded outside the limits of its ancient Empire--but not more than six.
+I will quote you 253 between the Ebro and the Grampians, between
+Brindisi and the Irish Channel.
+
+I do not write vainly. It is a profound thing.
+
+
+
+
+The Captain of Industry
+
+
+The heir of the merchant Mahmoud had not disappointed that great
+financier while he still lived, and when he died he had the satisfaction
+of seeing the young man, now twenty-five years of age, successfully
+conducting his numerous affairs, and increasing (fabulous as this may
+seem) the millions with which his uncle entrusted him.
+
+Shortly after Mahmoud's death the prosperity of the firm had already
+given rise to a new proverb, and men said: "Do you think I am
+Mahmoud's-Nephew?" when they were asked to lend money or in some other
+way to jeopardize a few coppers in the service of God or their
+neighbour.
+
+It was also a current expression, "He's rich as Mahmoud's-Nephew," when
+comrades would jest against some young fellow who was flusher than
+usual, and could afford a quart or even a gallon of wine for the
+company; while again the discontented and the oppressed would mutter
+between their teeth: "Heaven will take vengeance at last upon these
+Mahmoud's-Nephews!" In a word, "Mahmoud's-Nephew" came to mean
+throughout the whole Caliphate and wherever the True Believers spread
+their empire, an exceedingly wealthy man. But Mahmoud himself having
+been dead ten years and his heir the fortunate head of the establishment
+being now well over thirty years of age, there happened a very
+inexplicable and outrageous accident: he died--and after his death no
+instructions were discovered as to what should be done with this
+enormous capital, no will could be found, and it happened moreover to be
+a moment of great financial delicacy when the manager of each department
+in the business needed all the credit he could get.
+
+In such a quandary the Chief Organizer and confidential friend, Ahmed,
+upon whom the business already largely depended, and who was so
+circumstanced that he could draw almost at will upon the balances,
+imagined a most intelligent way of escaping from the difficulties that
+would arise when the death of the principal was known.
+
+He caused a quantity of hay, of straw, of dust and of other worthless
+materials to be stuffed into a figure of canvas; this he wrapped round
+with the usual clothes that Mahmoud's-Nephew had worn in the office, he
+shrouded the face with the hood which his chief had commonly worn during
+life, and having so dressed the lay figure and secretly buried the real
+body, he admitted upon the morning after the death those who first had
+business with his master.
+
+He met them at the door with smiles and bows, saying: "You know,
+gentlemen, that like most really successful men, my chief is as silent
+as his decisions are rapid; he will listen to what you have to say, and
+it will be a plain yes or no at the end of it."
+
+These gentlemen came with a proposal to sell to the firm for the sum of
+one million dinars a barren rock in the Indian Sea, which was not even
+theirs, and on which indeed not one of them had ever set eyes. Their
+claim to advance so original a proposal was that to their certain
+knowledge two thousand of the wealthiest citizens of their town were
+willing to buy the rock again at a profit from whoever should be its
+possessor during the next few weeks in the fond hope of selling it once
+again to provincials, clerics, widows, orphans, and in general the
+uninstructed and the credulous--among whom had been industriously spread
+the report that the rock in question consisted of one solid and flawless
+diamond.
+
+These gentlemen sitting round the table before the shrouded figure laid
+down their proposals, whereupon the manager briefly summed up what they
+had said, and having done so, replied: "Gentlemen, his lordship is a man
+of few words; but you will have your answer in a moment if you will be
+good enough to rise, as he is at this moment expecting a deputation from
+the Holy Men who are entreating him to provide the cost of a mosque in
+one of the suburbs."
+
+The proposers of the bargain rose, greatly awed and pleased by the
+silence and dignity of the financier who apparently remained for a
+moment discussing their proposals without gesture and in a tone too low
+for them to hear, while his manager bent over to listen.
+
+"It is ever so," said one of them, "you may ever know the greatest men
+by their silence."
+
+"You are right," said another, "he is not one to be easily deceived."
+
+The manager in a moment or two rejoined them at the door. "Gentlemen,"
+he said, smiling, "my chief has heard your arguments and has expressed
+his assent to your conditions."
+
+They went out, delighted at the success of their mission, and
+congratulated Ahmed upon the financier's genius.
+
+"He does not," said the manager, laughing in hearty agreement, "bestow
+himself as a present upon all and sundry. Nor is he often caught
+indulging in short bouts of sleep, nor are flies diabolically left to
+repose undisturbed upon his features--but you must excuse me, I hear the
+Holy Men," and indeed from the inner room came a noise of speechifying
+in that doleful sing-song which is associated in Bagdad with the
+practice of religion.
+
+The gentlemen who had thus had the luck to interview Mahmoud's-Nephew
+with such success in the matter of the Diamond Island, soon spread about
+the news, and confirmed their fellow-citizens in the certitude that a
+great financier is neither talkative nor vivacious. "Still waters run
+deep," they said, and all those to whom they said it nodded in a wise
+acquiescence. Nor had the Manager the least difficulty in receiving one
+set of customers after another and in negotiating within three weeks an
+infinite amount of business, all of which confirmed those who had the
+pleasure of an audience with the stuffed dummy that great fortunes were
+made and retained by reticence and a contempt for convivial weakness.
+
+At last the ingenious man of affairs, to whom the whole combination was
+due, was not a little disturbed to receive from the Caliph a note
+couched in the following terms:
+
+"The Commander of the Faithful and the Servant of the Merciful whose
+name be exalted, to the Nephew of Mahmoud:
+
+"My Lord:--
+
+"It has been the custom since the days of my grandfather (May his soul
+see God!) for the more wealthy of the Faithful to be called to my
+councils, and upon my summoning them thither it has not been unusual for
+them to present sums varying in magnitude but always proportionate to
+their total fortunes. My court will receive signal honour if you will
+present yourself after the morning prayer of the day after to-morrow. My
+treasurer will receive from you with gratitude and remembrance upon the
+previous day and not later than noon, the sum of one million dinars."
+
+Here, indeed, was a perplexity. The payment of the money was an easy
+matter and was duly accomplished; but how should the lay figure which
+did duty in such domestic scenes as the negotiation of loans, the
+bullying of debtors, the purchase of options, and the cheating of the
+innocent and the embarrassed, take his place in the Caliph's council and
+remain undiscovered? For great as was the reputation of Mahmoud's-Nephew
+for discretion and for golden silence, such as are proper to the
+accumulation of great wealth, there would seem a necessity in any
+political assembly to open the mouth from time to time, if only for the
+giving of a vote.
+
+But Ahmed, who had by this time accumulated into his own hands the
+millions formerly his master's, finally solved the problem. Judicious
+presents to the servants of the palace and the public criers made his
+way the easier, and on the summoning of the council Mahmoud's-Nephew,
+whose troublesome affection of the throat was now publicly discussed,
+was permitted to bring into the council-room his private secretary and
+manager.
+
+Moreover at the council, as at his private office, the continued
+taciturnity of the millionaire could not but impress the politicians as
+it had already impressed the financial world.
+
+"He does not waste his breath in tub-thumping," said one, looking
+reverently at the sealed figure.
+
+"No," another would reply, "they may ridicule our old-fashioned, honest,
+quiet Mohammedan country gentlemen, but for common sense I will back
+them against all the brilliant paradoxical young fellows of our day."
+
+"They say he is very kind at heart and lovable," a third would then add,
+upon which a fourth would bear his testimony thus:
+
+"Yes, and though he says nothing about it, his charitable gifts are
+enormous."
+
+By the second meeting of the council the lay figure had achieved a
+reputation of so high a sort that the Caliph himself insisted upon
+making him a domestic adviser, one of the three who perpetually
+associated with the Commander of the _Faithful_ and directed his
+policy. For the universal esteem in which the new councillor was held
+had affected that Prince very deeply.
+
+Here there arose a crux from which there could be no escape, as one of
+the three chief councillors, Mahmoud's-Nephew, must speak at last and
+deliver judgments!
+
+The Manager, first considering the whole business, and next adding up
+his private gains, which he had carefully laid out in estates of which
+the firm and its employs knew nothing, decided that he could afford to
+retire. What might happen to the general business after his withdrawal
+would not be his concern.
+
+He first gave out, therefore, that the millionaire was taken exceedingly
+ill, and that his life was despaired of: later, within a few hours, that
+he was dead.
+
+So far from attempting to allay the panic which ensued, Ahmed frankly
+admitted the worst.
+
+With cries of despair and a confident appeal to the justice of Heaven
+against such intrigues, the honest fellow permitted the whole of the
+vast business to be wound up in favour of newcomers, who had not
+forgotten to reward him, and soothing as best he could the ruined crowds
+of small investors who thronged round him for help and advice, he
+retired under an assumed name to his highly profitable estates, which
+were situated in the most distant provinces of the known world.
+
+As for Mahmoud's-Nephew, three theories arose about him which are still
+disputed to this day:
+
+The first was that his magnificent brain with its equitable judgment and
+its power of strict secrecy, had designed plans too far advanced for his
+time, and that his bankruptcy was due to excess of wisdom.
+
+The second theory would have it that by "going into politics" (as the
+phrase runs in Bagdad) he had dissipated his energies, neglected his
+business, and that the inevitable consequences had followed.
+
+The third theory was far more reasonable. Mahmoud's-Nephew, according to
+this, had towards the end of his life lost judgment; his garrulous
+indecision within the last few days before his death was notorious: in
+the Caliph's council, as those who should best know were sure, one could
+hardly get a word in edgewise for his bombastic self-assurance; while in
+matters of business, to conduct a bargain with him was more like
+attending a public meeting than the prosecution of negotiations with a
+respectable banker.
+
+In a word, it was generally agreed that Mahmoud's-Nephew's success had
+been bound up with his splendid silence, his fall, bankruptcy, and
+death, with a lesion of the brain which had disturbed this miracle of
+self-control.
+
+
+
+
+The Inventor
+
+
+I had a day free between two lectures in the south-west of England, and
+I spent it stopping at a town in which there was a large and very
+comfortable old posting-house or coaching-inn. I had meant to stay some
+few hours there and to take the last train out in the evening, and I had
+meant to spend those hours alone and resting; but this was not permitted
+me, for just as I had taken up the local paper, which was a humble,
+reasonable thing, empty of any passion and violence and very reposeful
+to read, a man came up and touched my left elbow sharply: a gesture not
+at all to my taste nor, I think, to that of anyone who is trying to read
+his paper.
+
+I looked up and saw a man who must have been quite sixty years of age.
+He had on a soft, felt slouch hat, a very old and greenish black coat;
+he stooped and shuffled; he was clean-shaven, with long grey hair, and
+his eyes were astonishingly bright and piercing and set close together.
+
+He said, "I beg your pardon."
+
+I said, "Eh, what?"
+
+He said again "I beg your pardon" in the tones of a man who almost
+commands, and having said this he put his hat on the table, dragged a
+chair quite close to mine, and pulled a folded bunch of foolscap sheets
+out of his pocket. His manner was that of a man who engages your
+attention and has a right to engage it. There were no preliminaries and
+there was no introduction. This was apparently his manner, and I
+submitted.
+
+"I have here," he said, fixing me with his intense eyes, "the plans for
+a speedometer."
+
+"Oh!" said I.
+
+"You know what a speedometer is?" he asked suspiciously.
+
+I said yes. I said it was a machine for measuring the speed of vehicles,
+and that it was compounded of two (or more) Greek words.
+
+He nodded; he was pleased that I knew so much, and could therefore
+listen to his tale and understand it. He pulled his grey baggy trousers
+up over the knee, settled himself, sitting forward, and opened his
+document. He cleared his throat, still fixing me with those eyes of his,
+and said--
+
+"Every speedometer up to now has depended upon the same principle as a
+Watt's governor; that is, there are two little balls attached to each by
+a limb to a central shaft: they rise and fall according to their speed
+of rotation, and this movement is indicated upon a dial."
+
+I nodded.
+
+He cleared his throat again. "Of course, that is unsatisfactory."
+
+"Damnably!" said I, but this reply did not check him.
+
+"It works tolerably well at high speeds; at low speeds it is useless;
+and then again there is a very rapid fluctuation, and the instrument is
+of only approximate precision."
+
+"Not it!" said I to encourage him.
+
+"There is one exception," he continued, "to this principle, and that is
+a speedometer which depends upon the introduction of resistance into a
+current generated by a small magneto. The faster the magneto turns the
+stronger the current generated, and the change is indicated upon a
+dial."
+
+"Yes," said I sadly, "as in the former case so in this; the change of
+speed is indicated upon a dial." And I sighed.
+
+"But this method also," he went on tenaciously, "has its defects."
+
+"You may lay to that," I interrupted.
+
+"It has the defect that at high speeds its readings are not quite
+correct, and at very low speeds still less so. Moreover, it is said that
+it slightly deteriorates with the passage of time."
+
+"Now that," I broke in emphatically, "is a defect I have discovered
+in----"
+
+But he put up his hand to stop me. "It slightly deteriorates, I say,
+with the passage of time." He paused a moment impressively. "No one has
+hitherto discovered any system which will accurately record the speed of
+a vehicle or of any rotary movement and register it at the lowest as at
+the highest speeds." He paused again for a still longer period in order
+to give still greater emphasis to what he had to say. He concluded in a
+new note of sober triumph: "I have solved the problem!"
+
+I thought this was the end of him, and I got up and beamed a
+congratulation at him and asked if he would drink anything, but he only
+said, "Please sit down again and I will explain."
+
+There is no way of combating this sort of thing, and so I sat down, and
+he went on:
+
+"It is perfectly simple...." He passed his hand over his forehead. "It
+is so simple that one would say it must have been thought of before; but
+that is what is always said of a great invention.... Now I have here"
+(and he opened out his foolscap) "the full details. But I will not read
+them to you; I will summarize them briefly."
+
+"Have you a plan or anything I could watch?" said I a little anxiously.
+
+"No," he answered sharply, "I have not, but if you like I will draw a
+rough sketch as I go along upon the margin of your newspaper."
+
+"Thank you," I said.
+
+He drew the newspaper towards him and put it on his knee. He pulled out
+a pencil; he held the foolscap up before his eye, and he began to
+describe.
+
+"The general principle upon which my speedometer reposes," he said
+solemnly, "is the coordination of the cylinder and the cone upon an
+angle which will have to be determined in practice, and will probably
+vary for different types. But it will never fall below 15 nor rise over
+43."
+
+"I should have thought----" I began, but he told me I could not yet have
+grasped it, and that he wished to be more explicit.
+
+"On a king bolt," he said, occasionally consulting his notes, "runs a
+pivot in bevel which is kept in place by a small hair-spring, which
+spring fits loosely on the Conkling Shaft."
+
+"Exactly," said I, "I see what is coming."
+
+But he wouldn't let me off so easily.
+
+"Yes, of course you are going to say that the whole will be keyed
+together, and that the T-pattern nuts on a movable shank will be my
+method of attachment to the fixed portion next to the cam? Eh? So it is,
+but" (and here his eye brightened), "_anyone_ could have arranged
+that. My particularity is that I have a freedom of movement even at the
+lowest speeds, and an accuracy of notation even at the highest, which is
+secured in a wholly novel manner ... and yet so simply. What do you
+think it is?"
+
+I affected to look puzzled, and thought for a moment. "I cannot
+imagine," said I, "unless----"
+
+"No," he interrupted, "do not try to guess it, for you never will. _I
+turn the flange inward_ on a Wilkinson lathe and give it a parabolic
+section so that the axes are always parallel to each other and to the
+shaft.... There!"
+
+I had no idea the man could be so moved: there was jubilation in his
+voice.
+
+"There!" he said again, as though some effort of the brain had exhausted
+him. "It can't be touched, mind you," he added suspiciously; "I've taken
+out the provisional patents. There's one man I know wants to fight it in
+the courts as an infringement on Wilkinson's own patent, but it can't be
+touched!" He shook his head decisively. "No! my lawyer's certain of
+that--and so'm I!"
+
+Here there was a break in his communications, so to speak, and he had
+apparently run out. It was not for me to wind him up again. I watched
+him with a sombre relief as he stood up again to full height, leaned his
+head back, and sighed profoundly with satisfaction and with completion.
+He folded up his specification and put it in his pocket again. He tore
+off the incomprehensible sketch he had made with his pencil while he was
+speaking, and put it by me on the mantelshelf. "You might like to keep
+it," he said pathetically; "it's a document, that is; it will be famous
+some day." He looked at it lovingly, almost as though he was going to
+take it back again: but he thought better of it.
+
+I was waiting, I will not say itching, for him to take his leave, when a
+god or demon, that same perhaps which had treated the poor fellow as a
+jest for a whole lifetime, inspired him to take a very false step
+indeed. He had already taken up his hat and was turning as though to go
+to the door, when the unfortunate thought struck him.
+
+"What would you do?" he said.
+
+"How do you mean?" I answered.
+
+"Why, what would you do to try and get it taken up and talked about?"
+
+Then it was my turn, and I let him have it.
+
+"You must get the Press and the Government to work together," I said
+rapidly, "and particularly in connection with the new Government Service
+of Camion's Fettle-Trains and Cursory Circuits."
+
+He nodded like one who thoroughly understands and desires to hear more.
+
+"Speed," I added nonchalantly, "and the measure of it are of course
+essentials in their case."
+
+He nodded again.
+
+"And they have never really settled the problem ... especially about
+Fettle-Trains."
+
+"No," said he ponderously, "so I understand."
+
+
+"Well now," I went on, full of the chase, "you will naturally ask me who
+are you to go to?" I scratched my nose. "You know the Fusionary Office,
+as we call it? It is really, of course, a part of the Stannaries. But
+the Chief Permanent Secretary likes to have it called the Fusionary
+Office; it's his vanity."
+
+"Yes," said he eagerly, "yes, go on!"
+
+"They always have the same hours," I said, "four to eleven."
+
+"Four to _what_?" he asked, looking up.
+
+"To eleven," I repeated sharply; "but you'd much better call round about
+three."
+
+He looked bewildered.
+
+"Don't interrupt," I said, seeing him open his lips, "or I shall lose
+the thread. It's rather complicated. You call at three by the little
+door in Whitehall on the Embankment side towards the Horse Guards
+looking south, and _don't_ ring the bell."
+
+"Why not?" he asked. I thought for the moment he might begin to cry.
+
+"Oh, well," I said testily, "you mustn't ask those questions. All these
+institutions are very old institutions with habits and prejudices of
+their own. You mustn't ring the bell, that's all; they don't like it;
+you must just wait until they open; and then, if you take _my_
+advice, don't write a note or ask to interview the First Analyist. Don't
+do any of the usual things, but just fill up one of the regular Treasury
+forms and state that you have come with regard to the Perception and
+Mensuration advertisements."
+
+His face was pained and wrinkled as he heard me, but he said, "I beg
+your pardon ... but shall I have it all explained to me at the office?"
+
+"Certainly not!" I said, aghast; "it's just because you might have so
+much difficulty there that I'm explaining everything to you."
+
+"Yes, I know," he said doubtfully; "thank you."
+
+"I hope you'll try and follow what I say," I continued a little wearily;
+"I have special opportunities for knowing.... Political, you know."
+
+"Certainly," he said, "certainly; but about those forms?"
+
+"Well," I said, "you didn't suppose they supplied them, did you?"
+
+"I almost did," he ventured.
+
+"Oh, you did," said I, with a loud laugh, "well, you're wrong there.
+However, I dare say I've got one on me." He looked up eagerly as I felt
+in my pockets. I brought out a telegraph blank, two letters, and a
+tobacco pouch. I looked at them for a moment. "No," said I, "I haven't
+got one; it's a pity, but I'll tell you who will give you one; you know
+the place opposite, where the bills are drafted?"
+
+"I'm afraid I don't," he said, admitting ignorance for the first time in
+this conversation and perhaps in his life.
+
+"Well," said I impatiently, "never mind, anyone will show you. Go there,
+and if they don't give you a form they'll show you a copy of Paper B,
+which is much the same thing."
+
+"Thank you," said he humbly, and he got up to move out. He was going a
+little groggily, his eyes were dull and sodden. He presented all the
+aspect of a man under a heavy strain.
+
+"You've got it all clear, I hope?" I asked cheerfully as he neared the
+door.
+
+"Oh, yes!" he said. "Thank you; yes!"
+
+"Anything else?" I shouted as he passed out into the courtyard.
+"Anything else I can do? You'll always find me in the room over the
+office, Room H, down the little iron staircase," I nodded genially to
+him as he disappeared.
+
+In this way did we exchange, the Inventor and I, those expert
+confidences and mutual aids in either's technical skill which are too
+rarely discovered in modern travel.
+
+
+
+
+The Views of England
+
+
+England is a country with edges and with a core. It is a country very
+small for the number of people who live in it, and very appreciable to
+the eye for the traveller who travels on foot or in a boat from place to
+place. Considering the part it has in the making of the world, it might
+justly be compared to a jewel which is very small and very valuable and
+can almost be held in the hand. The physical appreciation of England is
+to be reached by an appreciation of landscape.
+
+It so happens that England is traversed by remarkable and sudden ranges;
+hills with a sharp escarpment overlooking great undulating plains. This
+is not true of any other one country of Europe, but it is true of
+England, and a man who professes to consider, to understand, to
+criticize, to defend, and to love this country, must know the Pennines,
+the Cotswolds, the North and the South Downs, the Chilterns, the
+Mendips, and the Malverns; he must know Delamere Forest, and he must
+know the Hill of Beeston, from which all Cheshire may be perceived. If
+he knows these heights and has long considered the prospects which they
+afford, he can claim to have seen the face of England.
+
+It is deplorable that our modern method of travel does cut us off from
+such experiences. They were not only common to, they were necessary to
+our fathers; the roads would not be at the expense of tunnelling through
+hills, and (what is more important) when those men who most mould the
+knowledge of the country by the country (the people who deal with its
+soil, who live separate upon its separate farms) visited each other upon
+horses; and horses, unlike railway trains, cannot climb hills. They
+puff, they heave, they snort, as do railway trains, but they climb them
+well.
+
+On this account, because the roads for the carriages went over hills,
+and because the method of visiting even a near neighbour would permit
+you to go over hills, the England of quite a little time ago was
+familiar with the half-dozen great landscapes of England. You may see it
+in that most individual, that most peculiar, and, I think, that most
+glorious school of painters, the English landscape painter, Constable
+with his thick colours, Turner with his wonderment, and even the
+portrait painters in their backgrounds depend upon the view of the
+plains from a height. To-day our landscape painters sometimes do the
+same, but the market for that emotion is capricious, it is no longer the
+secure and natural way of presenting England to English eyes.
+
+If you will consider these plains at the foot of the English hills you
+will find in them the whole history of the country, and the whole
+meaning of it as well. Two occur to me first: The view of the Weald
+(both Kentish and Sussex) through which the influence of Europe
+perpetually approached the island, not only in the crisis of the Roman
+or the Norman invasions, but in a hundred episodes stretched out through
+two thousand years--and the view of the Thames Valley as one gets it on
+a clear day from the summits of the North Downs when one looks northward
+and sees very faintly the Chilterns along the horizon.
+
+This last is obscured by London. One needs a very particular
+circumstance in which to appreciate it. The air must be dry and clear,
+there must be little or no wind, or if there is a wind it must be a
+strong one from the south and west that has already driven the smoke
+from the western edge of the town. When this is so, a man looks right
+across to the sandy heights just north of the Thames, and far beyond he
+sees the Chilterns, like a landfall upon the rim of the world. He looks
+at all that soil on which the government of this country has been
+rooted. He sees the hill of Windsor. He overlooks, though he cannot
+perceive at so great a distance, the two great schools of the rich; he
+has within one view the principal Castle of the Kings, the place of
+their council, and the cathedral of their capital city: so true is it
+that the Thames made England.
+
+Then, if you consider the upper half of that valley, the view is from
+the ridge of the Berkshire hills, or, better still, from Cumnor, or from
+the clump of trees above Faringdon. From such look-outs the astonishing
+loneliness which England has had the strength to preserve in this
+historic belt of land profoundly strikes a man. You can see to your left
+and, a long way off, the hill where, as is most probable, Alfred thrust
+back the Pagans, and so saved one-half of Christendom. Oxford is within
+your landscape. The roll upwards in a glacis of the Cotswold, the nodal
+point of the Roman roads at Cirencester, and the ancient crossings of
+the Thames.
+
+From the Cotswold again westward you look over a sheer wall and see one
+of those differences which make up England. For the passage from the
+Upper Thames to the flat and luxuriant valley floor of the Severn is a
+transition (if it be made by crossing the hills) more sudden than that
+between many countries abroad. Had our feudalism cut England into
+provinces we should here have two marked provincial histories marching
+together, for the natural contrast is greater than between Normandy and
+Brittany at any part of their march or between Aragon and Castile at any
+part of theirs. I do not know what it is, but the view of the jagged
+Malvern seen above the happy mists of autumn, when these mists lie like
+a warm fleece upon the orchards of the vale, preserving them of a
+morning until the strengthening of the sun, the sudden aspect, I say, of
+those jagged peaks strikes one like a vision of a new world. How many
+men have thought it! How often it ought to be written down! It hangs in
+the memory of the traveller like a permanent benediction, and remains in
+his mind a standing symbol of peace.
+
+I have no space to speak of how from Beeston you see all Cheshire; the
+Vale Royal to your left, and the main plain of the county to your right.
+The whole stretch is framed in with definite hills, the last and highly
+marked line of the Pennines bounds the view upon the east; upon the west
+the first of the Welsh hills stands sharply in a long even line against
+the fading sun; and on the north you see the height of Delamere. There
+are three other views in the North of England, the first easy, the last
+two difficult to obtain, all between them making up a true picture of
+what the North of England is. The first (and it is very famous) is the
+view over the industrial ferment of South Lancashire, seen from the
+complete silence of the hills round the Peak. No matter where you cross
+that summit, even if you take the high road from the Snake Inn to
+Glossop, where the easiest, and therefore the least striking, passage
+has been chosen, much more if you follow the wild heights a little to
+the south until you come to a more abrupt descent on which there are not
+even paths, there comes a point where there is presented to you in one
+great offering, without introduction, a vision of the vast energies of
+England.
+
+I remember once in winter when the sun sets early (it was December, and
+seven years ago) coming upon this sight. The clouds were so arranged
+after an Atlantic storm that all the heaven (which here is always
+spacious and noble) was covered with a rolling curtain as though a man
+had pulled it with his hands. But far off, westward, there was a broad
+red band of sunset, and against this the smoke, the tall stacks, the
+violence and the wealth of that cauldron. One could almost hear the
+noise. It did arrest one; it was as though someone had painted something
+unreal, to be a mystical emblem, and to sum up in one picture all those
+million despairs, misfortunes, chances, disciplines, and acquirements
+which make up the character of Lancashire men. This vision also many men
+have seen and many men shall write of. Very rarely upon the surface of
+the earth does the soul take on so immediate and obvious a physical body
+as does the soul of that industrial world in the view of which I speak.
+
+And the two other views are, first, that difficult one which one must
+pick and choose but which can be obtained from several sites (especially
+at the end of Wensleydale), and which is the view of that rich, old, and
+agricultural Yorkshire, from which the county draws its traditions and
+in which, perhaps, the truest spirit of the county still abides; for
+Yorkshire is at heart farmer, and possibly after three generations of a
+town, a man from this part of England still looks more lively when he
+sees a lively horse put before him for judgment. Second, the view from
+Cross Fell, very, very difficult to obtain, for often when one climbs
+Cross Fell in sunny weather, one gets up over the Scar under the threat
+of cloud, and one only reaches the summit by the time the evening or the
+mist has fallen; but if one has the luck to see the view of which I
+speak, then one sees all that rugged remaining part of the Northwest
+exactly as the Romans saw it, and as it has been for two thousand years,
+with the high land of the lakes and the stony nature and the sparseness
+of all the stretch about one, and the approach to a foreign land.
+
+I have often thought when I have heard men blaming the story of England
+or her present mood for false reasons, or, what is worse, praising her
+for false reasons; when I have heard the men of the cities talking wild
+talk got from maps and from print, or the disappointed men talking wild
+talk of another kind, expecting impossible or foreign perfections from
+their own kindred--I have often thought, I say, when I have heard the
+folly upon either side (and the mass of it daily increases)--that it
+would be a wholesome thing if one could take such a talker and make him
+walk from Dover to the Solway, exercising some care that he should rise
+before the sun, and that he should see in clear weather the views of
+which I speak. A man who has done that has seen England--not the name or
+the map or the rhetorical catchword, but the thing. And it does not take
+so very long.
+
+
+
+
+The Lunatic
+
+
+Those who are interested in what simple straightforward people call the
+Pathology of Consciousness have gathered a great body of evidence upon
+the various manias that affect men, and there is an especially
+interesting department of this which concerns illusion upon matters
+which in the sane are determinable by the senses and common experience.
+Thus one man will believe himself to be the Emperor of China, another to
+be William Shakespeare or some other impossible person, though one would
+imagine that his every accident of daily life would convince him to the
+contrary.
+
+I had recently occasion to watch one of the most harmless and yet one of
+the most striking of these illusions in a private asylum which has
+specialized, if I may so express myself, upon men of letters. The case
+was harmless and even benign, for the poor fellow was not of a combative
+disposition to begin with, was of too careful and dignified a
+temperament to show more than slight irritation if his delusion were
+contradicted. This misfortune, however, very rarely overtook him, for
+those who came to visit him were warned to humour his whim. This
+eccentricity I will now describe.
+
+He imagined, nay he was convinced, that he was existing fifty years in
+the future, and that the interest of his conversation for others would
+lie in his reminiscence of the state of society in which we are actually
+living today. If anyone who had not been warned was imprudent enough to
+suggest that the conversation was taking place in 1909 would smile
+gently, nod, and say rather bitterly, "Yes, I know, I know," as though
+recognizing a universal plot against him which he was too weary to
+combat. But when he had said this he would continue to talk on as though
+both parties to the conversation were equally convinced that the year
+was really 1960 or thereabouts. Whether to add zest to what he said or
+from some part of his malady consonant with all the rest, my poor friend
+(who had been a journalist and will very possibly be a journalist again)
+presupposed that the whole structure of society as we now know it had
+changed and that his reminiscences were those of a past time which, on
+account of some great revolution or other, men imperfectly comprehended,
+so that it must be of the highest interest and advantage to listen to
+the testimony of an eye-witness upon them.
+
+What especially delighted him (for he was a zealous admirer of the
+society he described) was the method of government.
+
+"There was no possibility of going wrong," he said to me with curious
+zeal, "not a shadow of danger! It would be difficult for you to
+understand now how easily the system worked!" And here he sighed
+profoundly. "And why on earth," he continued, "men should have destroyed
+such an instrument when they had it is more than I can understand. There
+it was in every country in Europe; there were elections; all the men
+voted. And mind you, the elections were not so very far apart. Most
+people living at one election could remember the last, so there was no
+time for abuses to spring up.... Well, everybody voted. If a man wanted
+one thing he voted one way, and if he wanted another thing he voted the
+other way. The people for whom he voted would then meet, and with a
+sense of duty which I cannot exaggerate they would work month after
+month exactly to reproduce the will of those who had appointed them. It
+was a great time!"
+
+"Yet," said I, "even so there must have been occasional divergences
+between what these people did and what the nation wanted."
+
+"I see what you mean," he said, musing, "you mean that all the devotion
+in the world, the purest of motives and the most devoted sense of duty,
+could not keep the elected always in contact with the electors. You are
+right. But you must remember that in every country there was a
+machinery, with regard to the most important measures at least, which
+could throw the matter before the electors to be re-decided. I can
+remember no important occasion upon which the machinery was not brought
+into use."
+
+"But, after all, the value of the decisions of the electorate you are
+describing," said I, continuing to humour him, "would depend upon the
+information which the electorate had received as well as upon their
+judgment."
+
+"As for their judgment," he said, a little shortly, "it is not for our
+time to criticize theirs. Human judgment is not infallible, but I can
+well remember how in every nation of Europe it was the fixed conviction
+of the citizens that judgment was their chief characteristic, and
+especially judgment in national affairs. I cannot believe that so
+universal an attitude of the mind could have arisen had it not been
+justified. But as for information, they had the Press ... a free Press!"
+Here he fell into a reverie, so powerfully did his supposed memories
+affect him.
+
+I was willing to lead him on, because this kind of illness is best met
+by sympathy, and also because I was not uninterested to discover how his
+own trade had affected him.
+
+"You would hardly understand it," he said sadly; "what you hear from me
+is nothing but words.... I wish I could have shown you one of those
+great houses with information pouring in as rapid, as light, and as
+clear, from every hidden corner of the world, digested by master brains
+into the most lucid and terse presentment of it possible, and then
+whirled out on great wheels to be distributed by the thousand and the
+hundred thousand, to the hungry intelligence of Europe. There was
+nothing escaped it--nothing. In every capital were crowds of men
+dispatched from the other capitals of our civilization, moving with ease
+in the wealthiest houses, and exquisitely in touch with the most
+delicate phases of national life everywhere. And these men were such
+experts in selection that a picture of Europe as a whole was presented
+every morning to each particular part of Europe; and nowhere was this
+more successfully accomplished than in my own beloved town of London."
+
+"It must have been useful," I said, "not only for the political purposes
+you describe, but also for investors. Indeed, I should imagine that the
+two things ran together."
+
+"You are right," he said with interest, "the wide knowledge which even
+the poorest of the people possessed upon foreign affairs, through the
+action of the Press, was, further, of the utmost and most beneficent
+effect in teaching even the smallest proprietor what he need do with his
+capital. A discovery of metallic ore--especially of gold--a new
+invention, anything which might require development, was at once
+presented in its most exact aspect to the reader."
+
+"It was probably upon that account," said I, "that property was so
+equally distributed, and that so general a prosperity reigned as you
+have often described to me."
+
+"You are right," said he; "it was mainly this accurate and universal
+daily information which produced such excellent results."
+
+"But it occurs to me," said I, by way of stimulating his conversation
+with an objection, "that if so passionate and tenacious a habit of
+telling the exact truth upon innumerable things was present in this old
+institution of which you speak, it cannot but have bred a certain amount
+of dissension, and it must sometimes even have done definite harm to
+individuals whose private actions were thus exposed."
+
+"You are right," said he; "the danger of such misfortunes was always
+present, and with the greatest desire in the world to support only what
+was worthy the writers of the journals of which I speak would
+occasionally blunder against private interests; but there was a remedy."
+
+"What was that?" I asked.
+
+"Why, the law provided that in this matter twelve men called a jury,
+instructed by a judge, after the matter had been fully explained to them
+by two other men whose business it was to examine the truth boldly for
+the sake of justice--I say the law provided that the twelve men after
+this process should decide whether the person injured should receive
+money from the newspaper or no, and if so, in what amount. And, lest
+there should still be any manner of doubt, the judge was permitted to
+set aside their verdict if he thought it unjust. To secure his absolute
+impartiality as between rich and poor he was paid somewhat over 100 a
+week, a large salary in those days, and he was further granted the right
+of imprisoning people at will or of taking away their property if he
+believed them to obstruct his judgment. Nor were these the only
+safeguards. For in the case of very rich men, to whom justice might not
+be done on account of the natural envy of their poorer fellow-citizens,
+it was arranged that the jury should consist only of rich men. In this
+way it was absolutely certain that a complete impartiality would reign.
+We shall never see those days again," he concluded.
+
+"But do you not think," I said before I left him, "that the social
+perfection of the kind you have described must rather have been due to
+some spirit of the time than to particular institutions? For after all
+the zealous love of justice and the sense of duty which you describe are
+not social elements to be produced by laws."
+
+"Possibly," he said, wearily, "possibly, but we shall never see it
+again!"
+
+And I left him looking into the fire with infinite sadness and
+reflecting upon his lost youth and the year 1909: a pathetic figure, and
+one whose upkeep during the period of his deficiency was a very serious
+drain upon the resources of his family.
+
+
+
+
+The Inheritance of Humour
+
+
+There are some truths which seem to get old almost as soon as they are
+born, and that simply because they are so astonishingly true that people
+soon get to feel as though they have known them all their lives; and
+such a truth is that which first one writer and then another in the last
+five years has been insisting upon, until it is already a perfect
+commonplace that nations do not know their own qualities. The inmost,
+the characteristic thing, that which differentiates one community from
+another, as tastes or colours differentiate things--_that_ a
+nation hardly ever knows until it is pointed out to it by some foreigner
+or by some observer from within. It cannot know it, because one cannot
+tell the very atmosphere in which one lives. It is universal and
+therefore unnoticed. Now, if this is true of any nation, it is
+particularly true of England. And English people need to be told
+morning, noon, and night, not indeed the particular national
+characteristic which they have, since for this no particular name could
+be found, but rather what its evidences are; as, for instance,
+spontaneity in design, a passion for the mystical in poetry and the
+arts; a power in water-colour, in which they are perhaps quite alone,
+and certainly the first in Europe; and, above all, the chief, the master
+thing of all, humour.
+
+There is not nor ever will be anything like English humour. It is a
+thing quite apart, and by it for now more than two hundred years you may
+know England. It does not puzzle the foreigner (as the more blatant kind
+of intellectual man is too fond of boasting that it does); he simply
+admires it as a rule and wonders at it always; sometimes he actually
+dislikes it, but by it he knows that the thing he is reading is English
+and has the savour and taste of England.
+
+It is impossible to define it, because it is so full of stuff and so
+organic a quality; but in our own time it was principally the pencil of
+Charles Keene that has summed it up and presented it in a moment and at
+once to the eye--the pencil of Charles Keene and that profound instinct
+whereby he chose the legends for his drawing, whether he found them by
+his own sympathy with the people or whether they were suggested to him
+by friends.
+
+It is the verdict of the men most competent perhaps to judge upon these
+things that he had the greatest graphic power of his time, and that no
+one had had that power to such an extent since Hogarth. Upon these
+things the men of the trade must dispute; the layman cannot doubt that
+he had here a genius and a genius comprehensively national. It is the
+essence of a good draughtsman that what he wants to draw, that he draws.
+The line that he desires to see upon the paper appears there as his
+fingers move. It is a quality extremely rare in its perfection. And
+Charles Keene had it in perfection, as in totally different manner had
+the offensive and diseased talent of Beardsley.
+
+But more important than the power to do is the quality of the thing
+done, and the work of Charles Keene, multitudinous, varied, always
+great, is an inheritance for English people comparable to the
+inheritance they have in Dickens. It has also what Dickens had, a power
+of representing, as it were, the essential English. Just that which
+makes people say (with some truth) that Dickens never drew a gentleman
+would make them say with equal truth that what was interesting in the
+gentlemen of Charles Keene (and he perpetually drew them) was not the
+externals upon which gentlemen so pride themselves, but the soul. Thus I
+have in mind one picture wherein Keene drew a gentleman; true, he was a
+gentleman who had just swallowed a bad oyster, and therefore he was a
+man as well. I recall another of an old gentleman complaining of the
+caterpillar on his chop: he is a gentleman of the professional rather
+than the territorial classes, and, great heavens! what a power of line!
+All you see beneath the round of his hat is the end of his nose, the
+curve of his mouth, and two bushy ends of whiskers. Yet one can tell all
+about that man; one could write a book on him. One knows his economics,
+his religion, his accent, and what he thought of the Third Napoleon and
+what of Garibaldi. I have called draughtsmanship of this quality an
+inheritance--I might have called it perhaps with better propriety a
+monument. It is possible that England in the near future will look back
+with great envy, as she will certainly look back with great pride, to
+the generation preceding our own: they were a solid and a happy
+community of men. How much they owed to fortune, how much to themselves,
+it is not the place of such random stuff as mine to consider.
+
+They were nearly impregnable in their island; they were not bellicose.
+They made and sold for all the world. Whether the very different future
+which we are now entering is to be laid to their door or to our own,
+that generation will still remain one of the principal things in English
+history, like the Elizabethan generation, or the group of men who
+organized the Seven Years' War, or the group of men who fought in the
+Peninsula. And of that generation the note of health and of stability is
+represented by its humour. I am not sure that of all things educational
+to young men with no personal memory of that time, and especially to
+young men with no family tradition of it to reflect it in their books
+and their furniture; and--this yet more particularly--to young men born
+out of England yet claiming communion with England, the Anglo-Indians
+and the Colonials--I am not sure, I say, that the thing most educational
+to these would not be some hundred of Charles Keene's drawings, for
+therein they would find what it was that gave them the power and the
+wealth that can hardly be defended unless its traditions are continued.
+Note how Victorian England dealt with the humour of a Volunteer review;
+note how it dealt with the humour of excessive wealth; and note how it
+dealt with the humour of schools and of Dons. One might almost define it
+by negations. There is in all of it no--but here I lack a word.... When
+things ring false it is because they have got by exaggeration or by some
+other form of falsity _beside_ themselves. Appreciation of rank or
+even of worth becomes snobbishness; appreciation of another's judgment
+false taste; and patriotism, the most beautiful, the noblest, the most
+necessary of the great emotions, corrupts into something very vile
+indeed.
+
+Well, the Victorians, and notably this man of whose power of the pencil
+I am speaking, did lack that false savour, that savour of just missing
+what one wishes to say or to feel, which haunts us to-day; and I should
+imagine that whether it were cause or effect the salt present in the
+preservation of the moral health of that society was humour. Let us
+enjoy it like an heirloom. It is more national than the language; at
+least it is more national than what the language has become under
+foreign pressure; it is infinitely more national than our problems and
+our tragedies. It is so national that--who knows?--it may crop up again
+of itself one of these days; and may that not be long.
+
+
+
+
+The Old Gentleman's Opinions
+
+
+I had occasion about a fortnight ago to meet a man more nearly ninety
+than eighty years of age, who had had special opportunity for
+discovering the changes of Europe during his long life. He was of the
+English wealthier classes by lineage, but his mother had been of the
+French nobility and a Huguenot. His father had been prominent in the
+diplomacy of a couple of generations ago. He had travelled widely, read
+perhaps less widely, but had known and appreciated an astonishing number
+of his contemporaries.
+
+I was interested (without any power of my own to judge whether his
+decisions were right or wrong) to discover what most struck him in the
+changes produced by that great stretch of years, all of which he had
+personally observed: he was born just after Waterloo, and he could
+remember the Reform Bill.
+
+He surprised me by telling me, in the first place, that the material
+changes and discoveries, enormous though they were in extent, were not,
+in his view, the most striking. He was ready to leave it open whether
+these material changes were the causes of moral changes more remarkable,
+or merely effects concomitant with these. When I asked him what had
+struck him most of the great material developments, he told me the
+phonograph and the aeroplane among inventions; Mendel's observations in
+the sphere of experimental knowledge; and, in the sphere of pure theory,
+the breakdown of many things that had been dogmas of physical science in
+his early manhood.
+
+Since I did not quite understand what he meant by this last, he gave me,
+after some hesitation, a few examples: That the interior of the earth
+was molten; that a certain limited number of elements--not all yet
+isolated, but certainly few in their total--were at the base of all
+material forms, and were immutable; that the ultimate unit of each of
+these was a certain indivisible, eternal thing called the Atom; and so
+forth.
+
+He assured me that views of this sort, extending over a hundred or a
+thousand other points, were so universally accepted in his time that to
+dispute them was to be ranked with the unlettered or the fantastic. I
+asked him if it were so in economics. He said: Yes, in England, where
+there was a similar dogma of Free Trade: not abroad.
+
+When I asked him why Mendel's published experiments and the theory based
+upon them had so much impressed him, he said because it was almost the
+first attempt to apply to the speculative dogmas of biology some
+standard demonstrably true; and here he wandered off to explain to me
+why the commonly accepted views upon biology, which had so changed
+thought in the latter part of his life, were associated with the name of
+Darwin. Darwin, he assured me, had brought forward no new discovery, but
+only a new hypothesis, and that only a small and particular hypothesis,
+whereby to explain the general theory of transformism. This theory, he
+told me--the unbroken descent of living organisms and their physical
+connection with one another and with common parents--had been a
+favourite idea from the beginning of history with many great thinkers,
+from Lucretius to Buffon and from Augustus of Hippo to Lamarck.
+Darwin's, the old gentleman assured me, which he had defended with
+infinite toil, was that the method in which this continuity of descent
+proceeded was by an infinitely slow process of very small changes
+differentiating each minute step from the one before and the one after
+it, and these small changes Darwin's hypothesis referred to a natural
+selection. Nothing else in Darwin's work, he assured me, was novel, and
+yet it was the one thing which subsequent research had rendered more and
+more doubtful. Darwin (he said) said nothing new that was also true.
+
+At this point I was moved to contradict the old gentleman, and to say
+that one unquestioned contribution to science of Darwin, as novel as it
+was secure, was his patient discovery of the work of earthworms, and of
+its vast effect. The old gentleman was willing to admit that I was
+right, but he said he was only speaking of Darwin in connection with
+transformism and the whimsical way in which his private name (and his
+errors) had become identified with evolution in general.
+
+I asked him, since he had such a knowledge of men from observation, why
+this was so.
+
+"It seems at first sight," he said, "as ridiculous as though we should
+associate the theory of light with the name of Newton, who inclined to
+the exploded corpuscular hypothesis, or the general conception of
+orbital motion in the universe to the great Bacon, who, in point of
+fact, rudely repudiated the Copernican theory in particular."
+
+"Did he, indeed?" said I, interested.
+
+"I believe so," said the old gentleman; "at any rate you were asking me
+why Darwin, with his single contribution to the theory of transformism,
+and that a doubtful one--or, to be accurate, an exploded one--should be
+associated in the popular mind with the invention of so ancient a theory
+as that of evolution. The reason is, I think, no more than that he came
+at a particular moment when any man doing great quantities of detailed
+work in this field was bound to stand out exaggeratedly. The society in
+which he appeared had, until just before his day, accepted a narrow
+cosmogony, quite unknown to its ancestors. Darwin's book certainly
+exploded that, and the mind of his time--ignorant as it was of the
+past--was ready to accept the shattering of its father's idols as a new
+revelation."
+
+"But you were saying," said I, when he had thus dealt harshly with a
+great name, "that not the material but the moral changes of your time
+seemed to you the greatest. Which did you mean?"
+
+"Why, in the first place," said the old man thoughtfully and with some
+hesitation, "the curiously rapid decline of intelligence, or if you will
+have it differently, the clouding of thought that has marked the last
+thirty years. Men in my youth knew what they held and what they did not
+hold. They knew why they held it or why they did not hold it; but the
+attempt to enjoy the advantages of two contradictory systems at the same
+time, and, what is worse, the consulting of a man as an authority upon
+subjects he had never professed to know, are intellectual phenomena
+quite peculiar to the later years of my life."
+
+I said we of the younger generation had all noticed it, as, for
+instance, when an honest but imperfectly intelligent chemist was
+listened to in his exposition of the nature of the soul, or a well-paid
+religious official was content to expound the consolations of
+Christianity while denying that Christianity was true.
+
+"But," I continued, "we are usually told that this unfortunate decline
+in the express powers of the brain is due to the wide and imperfect
+education of the populace at the present moment."
+
+"That is not the case," answered the old man sharply, when I had made
+myself clear by repeating my remarks in a louder tone, for he was a
+little deaf.
+
+"That is not the case. The follies of which I speak are not particularly
+to be discovered among the poorer classes who have passed through the
+elementary schools. _These_" (it was to the schools that he was
+alluding with a comprehensive pessimism) "may account for the gross
+decline apparent in the public manners of our people, but not for faults
+which are peculiar to the upper and middle classes. It is not in the
+populace, but in those wealthier ranks that you will find the sort of
+intellectual decay of which I spoke."
+
+I asked him whether he thought the tricks it was now considered cultured
+to play with mathematics came within the category of this intellectual
+decay. The old gentleman answered me a little abruptly that he could not
+judge what I was talking about.
+
+"Why," said I, "do you believe that parallel straight lines
+_converge_ or _diverge_?"
+
+"Neither," said he, a little bewildered. "If they are parallel they
+cannot by definition either diverge or converge."
+
+"You are, then," said I, "an old-fashioned adherent of the theory of the
+parabolic universe?" At which sensible reply of mine the old man
+muttered rather ill-temperedly, and begged me to speak of something
+else.
+
+I asked him whether the knowledge of languages had not declined in his
+time. He said, somewhat emphatically, yes, and especially the knowledge
+of French, assuring me that in his early years many a Fellow of a
+College at Oxford or at Cambridge was capable of speaking that tongue in
+such a fashion as to make himself understood. On the other hand, he
+admitted that German and Spanish were more widely known than they had
+been, and Arabic certainly far more widely diffused among those
+officials of the Empire who took their work seriously.
+
+When I asked him whether politics were more corrupt as time proceeded,
+he said No, but more cynical; and as to morals he would not judge, for
+he was certain that as one vice was corrected another appeared in its
+place.
+
+What he told me he most deplored in the social system of his country was
+the power of the police and of the statistician by whom the policeman
+was guided. This he ascribed to the growth of great towns, to civic
+cowardice, and to a new taboo laid upon uniformed and labelled public
+authorities, who are now regarded as sacred, and also inordinately
+feared.
+
+"In my youth," he said, "there was a joke that every man in Paris was
+known to the police. Today that is universally true, and no joke with
+regard to every man in London. Our movements are marked, our earnings,
+our expenses, and our most private affairs known to the innumerable
+officials of the Treasury, our records of every sort, however intimate,
+are exactly and correctly maintained. The obtaining of work and a
+livelihood is dependent upon strong organizations. There is hardly an
+ailment or a domestic habit, from drinking wine to eating turnips, which
+some crank who has obtained the ear of a politician does not control or
+threaten in the immediate future to control."
+
+"As for doctors!" he began, his voice cracking with indignation, "their
+abominable...." but here the old gentleman fell into so violent a fit of
+coughing that he nearly turned black in the face, and when I
+respectfully slapped him on the back, in the hopes of granting him
+relief, he made matters worse by shaking himself at me with an energy
+worthy of 1842. His nurse rushed in, clapped him upon his pillows, and
+was prepared to vent her wrath upon me for having caused this paroxysm,
+when the old man's exhaustion and laboured breathing captured all her
+attention, and I had the opportunity to withdraw.
+
+
+
+
+On Historical Evidence
+
+
+The last book to be published upon the last Dauphin of France set me
+thinking upon what seems to me the chief practical science in which
+modern men should secure themselves. I mean the science of history--and
+in this science almost all lies in the appreciation of evidence, for one
+of the chief particular problems presented to the student of history at
+the present moment is whether the Dauphin did or did not survive his
+imprisonment in the Temple.
+
+Let me first say why, to so many of us, the science of history and the
+appreciation of the evidence upon which it depends is of the first
+moment. It is because, short of vision or revelation, history is our
+only extension of human experience. It is true that a philosophy common
+to all citizens is necessary for a State if it is to, live--but short
+of that necessity the next most necessary factor is a knowledge of the
+stuff of mankind: of how men act under certain conditions and impulses.
+This knowledge may be acquired, and is in some measure, during the
+experience of one wise lifetime, but it is indefinitely extended by the
+accumulation of experience which history affords.
+
+And what history so gives us is always of immediate and practical
+moment.
+
+For instance, men sometimes speak with indifference of the rival
+theories as to the origin of European land tenure; they talk as though
+it were a mere academic debate whether the conception of private
+property in land arose comparatively late among Europeans or was native
+and original in our race. But you have only to watch a big popular
+discussion on that very great and at the present moment very living
+issue, the moral right to the private ownership in land, to see how
+heavily the historic argument weighs with every type of citizen. The
+instinct that gives that argument weight is a sound one, and not less
+sound in those who have least studied the matter than in those who have
+most studied it; for if our race from its immemorial origins has desired
+to own land as a private thing side by side with communal tenures, then
+it is pretty certain that we shall not modify that intention, however
+much we change our laws. If, on the other hand, it could be shown that
+before the advent of a complex civilization Europeans had no conception
+of private property in land, but treated land as a thing necessarily and
+always communal, then you could ascribe modern Socialist theories with
+regard to the land to that general movement of harking back to the
+origins which Europe has been assisting at through over a hundred years
+of revolution and of change.
+
+It sounds cynical, but it is perfectly true, that much the largest
+factor in the historical conception of men is assertion. It is literally
+true that when men (with the exception of a very small proportion of
+scholars who are also intelligent) consider the past, the picture on which
+they dwell is a picture conveyed to them wholly by authority and by
+unquestioned authority. There was never a time when the original sources
+of history were more easily to be consulted by the plain man; but whether
+because of their very number, or because the habit is not yet formed, or
+because there are traditions of imaginary difficulty surrounding such
+reading, original sources were perhaps never less familiar to fairly
+educated opinion than they are today; and therefore no type of book gives
+more pleasure when one comes across it than those little cheap books, now
+becoming fairly numerous, in which the original sources, and the
+original sources alone, are put before the reader. Mr. Rait has already
+done such work in connection with Mary Queen of Scots, and Mr. Archer
+did it admirably in connection with the Third Crusade.
+
+But apart from the importance of consulting original sources--which is
+like hearing the very witnesses themselves in court--there is a factor
+in historical judgment which by some unhappy accident is peculiarly
+lacking in the professional historian. It is a factor to which no
+particular name can be attached, though it may be called a department of
+common sense. But it is a mental power or attitude easily recognizable
+in those who possess it, and perhaps atrophied by the very atmosphere of
+the study. It goes with the open air with a general knowledge of men and
+with that rapid recognition of the way in which things "fit in" which is
+necessarily developed by active life.
+
+For instance, when you know the pace at which Harold marched down from
+the north to Hastings you recognize, if you use that factor of historic
+judgment of which I spake, that the affair was not barbaric. There must
+have been fairly good roads, and there must have been a high
+organization of transport. You have only to consider for a moment what a
+column looks like, even if it be only a brigade, to see the truth of
+that. Again, this type of judgment forbids anyone who uses it to ascribe
+great popular movements (great massacres, great turmoils, and so forth)
+to craft. It is a very common thing, especially in modern history, to
+lay such things to the power of one or two wealthy or one or two bloody
+leaders, but you have only to think for a few moments of what a mob is
+to see the falsity of that. Craft can harness this sort of explosive
+force, it can control it, or persuade it, or canalize it to certain
+issues, but it cannot create it.
+
+Again, this sort of sense easily recognizes in historic types the
+parallels of modern experience. It avoids the error of thinking history
+a mistake and making of the men and women who appear there something
+remote from humanity, extreme, and either stilted or grandiose.
+
+In aid of this last feature in historical judgment there is nothing of
+such permanent value as a portrait. Obtain your conception (as, indeed,
+most boys do) of the English early sixteenth century from a text, then
+go and live with the Holbeins for a week and see what an enormously
+greater thing you will possess at the end of it. It is indeed one of the
+misfortunes of European history that from the fifth century to at least
+the eleventh we are, so far as Western European history is concerned,
+deprived of portraits. And by an interesting parallel the writers of the
+dark time seemed to have had neither the desire nor the gift of vivid
+description. Consider the dreariness of the hagiographers, every one of
+them boasting the noble rank and the conventional status of his hero,
+and you may say not one giving the least conception of the man's
+personality. You have the great Gallo-Roman noble family of Ferreolus
+running down the centuries from the Decline of the Empire to the climax
+of Charlemagne. Many of those names stand for some most powerful
+individuality, yet all we have is a formula, a lineage, with symbols and
+names in the place of living beings, and even that established only by
+careful work, picking out and sifting relationships from various lives.
+The men of that time did not even think to tell us that there was such a
+thing as a family tradition, nor did it seem important to them to
+establish its Roman origin and its long succession in power.
+
+Next it must be protested that the smallness and particularity of the
+questions upon which historical discussion rages are no proof either of
+its general purposelessness nor of _their_ insignificance. All
+advance of knowledge proceeds in this fashion. Physical science affords
+innumerable examples of the way in which progress has depended upon a
+curiosity directed towards apparently insignificant things, and there is
+something in the mind which compels it to select a narrow field for the
+exercise of its acutest powers. Moreover, special points, discussion
+upon which must evidently be lengthy and may be indefinite, are
+peculiarly attractive to just that kind of man who by a love of
+prolonged research enlarges the bounds of knowledge and at the same time
+strengthens and improves for his fellows by continual exercise all the
+instruments of their common trade. Take, for instance, this case of the
+little Dauphin, Louis XVII. It really does not matter to day whether the
+boy got away or whether he died in prison. It does not prolong the line
+of the Capetians--the heir to that is present in the Duke of Orleans. It
+does not even affect our view of any other considerable part of
+history--save possibly the policy of Louis XVIII--and it is of no direct
+interest to our pockets or to our affections. Yet the masses of work
+which have accumulated round that one doubt have solved twenty other
+doubts. They have illuminated all the close of the Terror; they are
+beginning to make us understand that most difficult piece of political
+psychology, the reaction of Thermidor, and with it how Europeans lose
+their balance and regain it in the course of their quasi-religious wars;
+for all our wars have something in them of religion.
+
+Three elements appear to enter into the judgment of history. First,
+there is the testimony of human witnesses; next, there are the non-human
+boundaries wherein the action took place, boundaries which, by all our
+experience, impose fixed limits to action; thirdly, there is that
+indefinable thing, that mystic power, which all nations deriving from
+the theology of the Western Church have agreed to call, with the
+schoolman, _common sense_; a general appreciation which transcends
+particular appreciations and which can integrate the differentials of
+evidence. Of this last it is quite impossible to afford a test or to
+construct a measure; its presence in an argument is none the less as
+readily felt as fresh air in a room; without it nothing is convincing
+however laboured, with it, even though it rely upon slight evidence, one
+has the feeling of walking on a firm road. But it must be "common
+sense"--it must be of the sort, that is, which is common to man various
+and general, and it is in this perhaps that history suffers most from
+the charlatanism and ritual common to all great matters.
+
+Men will have pomp and mystery surrounding important things, and
+therefore the historians must, consciously or unconsciously, tend to
+strut, to quote solemn authorities in support, and to make out the
+vulgar unworthy of their confidence. Hence, by the way, the plague of
+footnotes.
+
+These had their origin in two sources: the desire to show that one was
+honest and to prove it by a reference; the desire to elucidate some
+point which it was not easy to elucidate in the text itself without
+making the sentence too elaborate and clumsy. Either use may be seen at
+its best in Gibbon. With the last generation they have served mainly,
+and sometimes merely, for ritual adornment and terror, not to make
+clearer or more honest, but to deceive. Thus Taine in his monstrously
+false history of the Revolution revels in footnotes; you have but to
+examine a batch of them with care to turn them completely against his
+own conclusions--they are only put there as a sort of spiked paling to
+warn off trespassers. Or, again, M. Thibaut, who writes under the name
+of "Anatole France," gives footnotes by the score in his romance of Joan
+of Arc, apparently not even caring to examine whether they so much as
+refer to his text, let alone support it. They seem to have been done by
+contract.
+
+Another ailment in this department is the negative one, whereby an
+historian will leave out some aspect which to him, cramped in a study,
+seems unimportant, but which any plain man moving in the world would
+have told him to be the essential aspect of the whole matter. For
+instance, when Napoleon left Madrid on his forced march to intercept Sir
+John Moore before that general should have reached Benevente, he thought
+Moore was at Valladolid, when as a fact he was at Sahagun. In Mr. Oman's
+history of the Peninsular War the error is put thus: "Napoleon had not
+the comparatively easy task of cutting the road between Valladolid and
+Astorga, but the much harder one of intercepting that between Sahagun
+and Astorga."
+
+Why is this egregious nonsense? The facts are right and so are the dates
+and the names, yet it makes one blush for Oxford history. Why? Because
+the all-important element of _distance_ is omitted. The very first
+question a plain man would ask about the case would be, "What were the
+distances involved?" The academic historian doesn't know, or, at least,
+doesn't say; yet without an appreciation of the distances the statement
+has no value. As a fact the distances were such that in the first case
+(supposing Moore had been at Valladolid) Napoleon would have had to
+cover nearly three miles to Moore's one to intercept him--an almost
+superhuman task. In the second case (Moore being as a fact at Sahagun)
+he would have had to go over _four miles_ to his opponent's one--an
+absolutely impossible feat.
+
+To march _three_ miles to the enemy's _one_ is what Mr. Oman
+calls "a comparatively easy task"; to march four to his one is what Mr.
+Oman calls a "much harder" task; and to write like that is what an
+informed critic calls bad history.
+
+The other two factors in an historical judgment can be more easily
+measured.
+
+The non-human elements which, as I have said, are irremovable (save to
+miracle), are topography, climate, season, local physical conditions,
+and so forth. They have two valuable characters in aid of history; the
+first is that they correct the errors of human memory and support the
+accuracy of details; the second is that they enable us to complete a
+picture. We can by their aid "see" the physical framework in which an
+action took place, and such a landscape helps the judgment of things
+past as it does of things contemporary. Thus the map, the date, the
+soil, the contours of Crcy field make the traditional spot at which the
+King of Bohemia fell doubtful; the same factors make it certain that
+Drouet did not plunge haphazard through Argonne on the night of June 21,
+1791, but that he must have gone by one path--which can be determined.
+
+Or, again, take that prime question, why the Prussians did not charge at
+Valmy. On their failure to do so all the success of the Revolution
+turned. A man may read Dumouriez, Kellermann, Pully, Botidoux,
+Massenback, Goethe--there are fifty eye-witnesses at least whose
+evidence we can collect, and I defy anyone to decide. (Brunswick himself
+never knew.) But go to that roll of land between Valmy and the high
+road; go after three days' rain as the allies did, and you will
+immediately learn. That field between the heights of "The Moon" and the
+site of old Valmy mill, which is as hard as a brick in summer (when the
+experts visit it), is a marsh of the worst under an autumn drizzle; no
+one could have charged.
+
+As for human testimony, three things appear: first, that the witness is
+not, as in a law court, circumscribed. His relation may vary infinitely
+in degree of proximity of time or space to the action, from that of an
+eye-witness writing within the hour to that of a partisan writing at
+tenth hand a lifetime after. That question of proximity comes first,
+from the known action of the human mind whereby it transforms colours
+and changes remembered things. Next there is the character of the
+witness _for the purposes of his testimony_. Historians write, too
+often, as though virtue--or wealth (with which they often confound
+it)--were the test. It is not, short of a known motive for lying; a
+murderer or a thief casually witnessing to a thing with which he is
+familiar is worth more than the best man witnessing in a matter which he
+understands ill. It was this error which ruined Croker's essay on
+Charlotte Robespierre's Memoirs. Croker thought, perhaps wisely, that
+all radicals were scoundrels; he could not accept her editor's evidence,
+and (by the way) the view of this amateur collector without a tincture
+of historical scholarship actually imposed itself on Europe for nearly
+seventy years!
+
+And the third character in the witness is support: the support upon
+converging lines of other human testimony, most of it indifferent, some
+(this is essential) casual and by the way--deprived therefore of motive.
+
+When I shall find these canons satisfied to oppose the strong
+probability and tradition of the Dauphin's death in prison I shall doubt
+that death, but not before.
+
+
+
+
+The Absence of the Past
+
+
+It is perhaps not possible to put into human language that emotion
+which rises when a man stands upon some plot of European soil and can
+say with certitude to himself: "Such and such great, or wonderful, or
+beautiful things happened here."
+
+Touch that emotion ever so lightly and it tumbles into the commonplace,
+and the deadest of commonplace. Neglect it ever so little and the
+Present (which is never really there, for even as you walk across
+Trafalgar Square it is yesterday and tomorrow that are in your mind),
+the Present, I say, or rather the immediate flow of things, occupies you
+altogether. But there is a mood, and it is a mood common in men who have
+read and who have travelled, in which one is overwhelmed by the sanctity
+of a place on which men have done this or that a long, long time ago.
+
+Here it is that the gentle supports which have been framed for human
+life by that power which launched it come in and help a man. Time does
+not remain, but space does, and though we cannot seize the Past
+physically we can stand physically upon the site, and we can have (if I
+may so express myself) a physical communion with the Past by occupying
+that very spot which the past greatness of man or of event has occupied.
+
+It was but the other day that, with an American friend at my side, I
+stood looking at the little brass plate which says that here Charles
+Stuart faced (he not only faced, but he refused) the authority of his
+judges. I know not by what delicate mechanism of the soul that record
+may seem at one moment a sort of tourist thing, to be neglected or
+despised, and at another moment a portent. But I will confess that all
+of a sudden, pointing out this very well-known record upon the brass let
+into the stone in Westminster Hall, I suddenly felt the presence of the
+thing. Here all that business was done: they were alive; they were in
+the Present as we are. Here sat that tender-faced, courageous man, with
+his pointed beard and his luminous eyes; here he was a living man
+holding his walking-stick with the great jewel in the handle of it; here
+was spoken in the very tones of his voice (and how a human voice
+perishes!--how we forget the accents of the most loved and the most
+familiar voices within a few days of their disappearance!); here the
+small gestures, and all the things that make up a personality, marked
+out Charles Stuart. When the soul is seized with such sudden and
+positive conviction of the substantial past it is overwhelmed; and
+Europe is full of such ghosts.
+
+As you take the road to Paradise, about halfway there you come to an
+inn, which even as inns go is admirable. You go into the garden of it,
+and see the great trees and the wall of Box Hill shrouding you all
+around. It is beautiful enough (in all conscience) to arrest one without
+the need of history or any admixture of the pride of race; but as you
+sit there on a seat in that garden you are sitting where Nelson sat when
+he said goodbye to his Emma, and if you will move a yard or two you will
+be sitting where Keats sat biting his pen and thinking out some new line
+of his poem.
+
+What has happened? These two men with their keen, feminine faces, these
+two great heroes of a great time in the great story of a great people of
+this world, are not there. They are nowhere. But the site remains.
+
+Philosophers can put in formulae the crowd of suggestions that rush into
+the mind when one's soul contemplates the perpetual march and passage of
+mortality. But they can do no more than give us formularies: they cannot
+give us replies. What are we? What is all this business? Why does the
+mere space remain and all the rest dissolve?
+
+There is a lonely place in the woods of Chilham, in the County of Kent,
+above the River Stour, where a man comes upon an irregular earthwork
+still plainly marked upon the brow of the bluff. Nobody comes near this
+place. A vague country lane, or rather track; goes past the wet soil of
+it, plunges into the valley beyond, and after serving a windmill joins
+the high road to Canterbury. Well, that vague track is the ancient
+British road, as old as anything in this Island, that took men from
+Winchester to the Straits of Dover. That earthwork is the earthwork (I
+could prove it, but this is not the place) where the British stood
+against the charge of the Tenth Legion, and first heard, sounding on
+their bronze, the arms of Caesar. Here the river was forded; here the
+little men of the South went up in formation; here the Barbarian broke
+and took his way, as the opposing General has recorded, through devious
+woodland paths, scattering in the pursuit; here began the great history
+of England.
+
+Is it not an enormous business merely to stand in such a place? I think
+so.
+
+I know a field to the left of the Chalons Road, some few miles before
+you get to Ste. Menehould. There used to be an inn by the roadside
+called "The Sign of the Moon." It has disappeared. There used to be a
+ramshackle windmill beyond the field, a mile or so from the road, on an
+upland swell of land, but that also has gone, and had been gone for some
+time before I knew the field of which I write. It is a bare fold of land
+with one or two little scrubby spinneys alongside the plough. And for
+the rest, just the brown earth and the sky. There are days on which you
+will see a man at work somewhere within that mile, others on which it is
+completely deserted. Here it is that the French Revolution was
+preserved. Here was the Prussian charge. On the deserted, ugly lump of
+empty earth beyond you were the three batteries that checked the
+invaders. It was all alive and crowded for one intense moment with the
+fate of Christendom. Here, on the place in which you are standing and
+gazing, young Goethe stood and gazed. That meaningless stretch of coarse
+grass supported Brunswick and the King of Prussia, and the brothers of
+the King of France, as they stood windswept in the rain, watching the
+failure of the charge. It is the field of Valmy. Turn on that height and
+look back westward and you see the plains rolling out infinitely; they
+are the plains upon which Attila was crushed; but there is no one there.
+
+All men have remarked that night and silence are august, and I think
+that if this quality in night and silence be closely examined it will be
+found to consist, in part at least, in this: that either of them
+symbolizes Absence. By a paradox which I will not attempt to explain,
+but which all have felt, it is in silence and in darkness that the Past
+most vividly returns, and that this absence of what once was possesses,
+nay, obtrudes itself upon the mind: it becomes almost a sensible thing.
+There is much to be said for those who pretend, imagine, or perhaps have
+experienced under such conditions the return of the dead. The mood of
+darkness and of silence is a mood crammed with something that does not
+remain, as space remains, that is limited by time, and is a creature of
+time, and yet something that has an immortal right to remain.
+
+Now, I suppose that in that sentence where I say things mortal have
+immortal rights to permanence, the core of the whole business is touched
+upon. And I suppose that the great men who could really think and did
+not merely fire off fireworks to dazzle their contemporaries--I suppose
+that Descartes, for instance, if he were here sitting at my table--could
+help me to solve that contradiction; but I sit and think and cannot
+solve it.
+
+"What," says the man upon his own land, inherited perhaps and certainly
+intended for his posterity--"what! Can you separate me from this? Are
+not this and I bound up inextricably?" The answer is "No; you are not so
+far as any observer of this world can discover. Space is in no way
+possessed by man, and he who may render a site immortal in one of our
+various ways, the captain who there conquered, the poet who there
+established his sequence of words, cannot himself put forward a claim to
+permanence within it at all."
+
+There was a woman of charming vivacity, whose eyes were ever ready for
+laughter, and whose tone of address of itself provoked the noblest of
+replies. Many loved her; all admired. She passed (I will suppose) by
+this street or by that; she sat at table in such and such a house;
+Gainsborough painted her; and all that time ago there were men who had
+the luck to meet her and to answer her laughter with their own. And the
+house where she moved is there and the street in which she walked, and
+the very furniture she used and touched with her hands you may touch
+with your hands. You shall come into the rooms that she inhabited, and
+there you shall see her portrait, all light and movement and grace and
+beatitude.
+
+She is gone altogether, the voice will never return, the gestures will
+never be seen again. She was under a law; she changed, she suffered, she
+grew old, she died; and there was her place left empty. The not living
+things remain; but what counted, what gave rise to them, what made them
+all that they are, has pitifully disappeared, and the greater, the
+infinitely greater, thing was subject to a doom perpetually of change
+and at last of vanishing. The dead surroundings are not subject to such
+a doom. Why?
+
+All those boys who held the line of the low ridge or rather swell of
+land from Hougoumont through the Belle Alliance have utterly gone. More
+than dust goes, more than wind goes; they will never be seen again.
+Their voices will never be heard--they are not. But what is the mere
+soil of the field without them? What meaning has it save for their
+presence?
+
+I could wish to understand these things.
+
+
+
+
+St. Patrick
+
+
+If there is one thing that people who are not Catholic have gone wrong
+upon more than another in the intellectual things of life, it is the
+conception of a Personality. They are muddled about it where their own
+little selves are concerned, they misappreciate it when they deal with
+the problems of society, and they have a very weak hold of it when they
+consider (if they do consider) the nature of Almighty God.
+
+Now, personality is everything. It was a Personal Will that made all
+things, visible and invisible. Our hope of immortality resides in this,
+that we are persons, and half our frailties proceed from a
+misapprehension of the awful responsibilities which personality involves
+or a cowardly ignorance of its powers of self-government.
+
+The hundred and one errors which this main error leads to include a bad
+error on the nature of history. Your modern non-Catholic or
+anti-Catholic historian is always misunderstanding, underestimating, or
+muddling the role played in the affairs of men by great and individual
+Personalities. That is why he is so lamentably weak upon the function of
+legend; that is why he makes a fetish of documentary evidence and has no
+grip upon the value of tradition. For traditions spring from some
+personality invariably, and the function of legend, whether it be a
+rigidly true legend or one tinged with make-believe, is to interpret
+Personality. Legends have vitality and continue, because in their origin
+they so exactly serve to explain or illustrate some personal character
+in a man which no cold statement could give.
+
+Now St. Patrick, the whole story and effect of him, is a matter of
+Personality. There was once--twenty or thirty years ago--a whole school
+of dunderheads who wondered whether St. Patrick ever existed, because
+the mass of legends surrounding his name troubled them. How on earth
+(one wonders) do such scholars consider their fellow-beings! Have they
+ever seen a crowd cheering a popular hero, or noticed the expression
+upon men's faces when they spoke of some friend of striking power
+recently dead? A great growth of legends around a man is the very best
+proof you could have not only of his existence but of the fact that he
+was an origin and a beginning, and that things sprang from his will or
+his vision. There were some who seemed to think it a kind of favour done
+to the indestructible body of Irish Catholicism when Mr. Bury wrote his
+learned Protestant book upon St. Patrick. It was a critical and very
+careful bit of work, and was deservedly praised; but the favour done us
+I could not see! It is all to the advantage of non-Catholic history that
+it should be sane, and that a great Protestant historian should make
+true history out of a great historical figure was a very good sign. It
+was a long step back towards common sense compared with the German
+absurdities which had left their victims doubting almost all the solid
+foundation of the European story; but as for us Catholics, we had no
+need to be told it. Not only was there a St. Patrick in history, but
+there is a St. Patrick on the shores of his eastern sea and throughout
+all Ireland to-day. It is a presence that stares you in the face, and
+physically almost haunts you. Let a man sail along the Leinster coast on
+such a day as renders the Wicklow Mountains clear up-weather behind him,
+and the Mourne Mountains perhaps in storm, lifted clearly above the sea
+down the wind. He is taking some such course as that on which St.
+Patrick sailed, and if he will land from time to time from his little
+boat at the end of each day's sailing, and hear Mass in the morning
+before he sails further northward, he will know in what way St. Patrick
+inhabits the soil which he rendered sacred.
+
+We know that among the marks of holiness is the working of miracles.
+Ireland is the greatest miracle any saint ever worked. It is a miracle
+and a nexus of miracles. Among other miracles it is a nation raised from
+the dead.
+
+The preservation of the Faith by the Irish is an historical miracle
+comparable to nothing else in Europe. There never was, and please God
+never can be, so prolonged and insanely violent a persecution of men by
+their fellow-men as was undertaken for centuries against the Faith in
+Ireland: and it has completely failed. I know of no example in history
+of failure following upon such effort. It had behind it in combination
+the two most powerful of the evil passions of men, terror and greed. And
+so amazing is it that they did not attain their end, that perpetually as
+one reads one finds the authors of the dreadful business now at one
+period, now at another, assuming with certitude that their success is
+achieved. Then, after centuries, it is almost suddenly perceived--and in
+our own time--that it has not been achieved and never will be.
+
+What a complexity of strange coincidences combined, coming out of
+nothing as it were, advancing like spirits summoned on to the stage, all
+to effect this end! Think of the American Colonies; with one little
+exception they were perhaps the most completely non-Catholic society of
+their time. Their successful rebellion against the mother country meant
+many things, and led to many prophecies. Who could have guessed that one
+of its chief results would be the furnishing of a free refuge for the
+Irish?
+
+The famine, all human opinion imagined, and all human judgment was bound
+to conclude, was a mortal wound, coming in as the ally of the vile
+persecution I have named. It has turned out the very contrary. From it
+there springs indirectly the dispersion, and that power which comes from
+unity in dispersion, of Irish Catholicism.
+
+Who, looking at the huge financial power that dominated Europe, and
+England in particular, during the youth of our own generation, could
+have dreamt that in any corner of Europe, least of all in the poorest
+and most ruined corner of Christendom, an effective resistance could be
+raised?
+
+Behind the enemies of Ireland, furnishing them with all their modern
+strength, was that base and secret master of modern things, the usurer.
+He it was far more than the gentry of the island who demanded toll, and,
+through the mortgages on the Irish estates, had determined to drain
+Ireland as he has drained and rendered desert so much else. Is it not a
+miracle that he has failed?
+
+Ireland is a nation risen from the dead; and to raise one man from the
+dead is surely miraculous enough to convince one of the power of a great
+spirit. This miracle, as I am prepared to believe, is the last and the
+greatest of St. Patrick's.
+
+When I was last in Ireland, I bought in the town of Wexford a coloured
+picture of St. Patrick which greatly pleased me. Most of it was green in
+colour, and St. Patrick wore a mitre and had a crosier in his hand. He
+was turning into the sea a number of nasty reptiles: snakes and toads
+and the rest. I bought this picture because it seemed to me as modern a
+piece of symbolism as ever I had seen: and that was why I bought it for
+my children and for my home.
+
+There was a few pence change, but I did not want it. The person who sold
+me the picture said they would spend the change in candles for St.
+Patrick's altar. So St. Patrick is still alive.
+
+
+
+
+The Lost Things
+
+
+I never remember an historian yet, nor a topographer either, who could
+tell me, or even pretend to explain by a theory, how it was that certain
+things of the past utterly and entirely disappear.
+
+It is a commonplace that everything is subject to decay, and a
+commonplace which the false philosophy of our time is too apt to forget.
+Did we remember that commonplace we should be a little more humble in
+our guesswork, especially where it concerns prehistory; and we should
+not make so readily certain where the civilization of Europe began, nor
+limit its immense antiquity. But though it is a commonplace, and a true
+one, that all human work is subject to decay, there seems to be an
+inexplicable caprice in the method and choice of decay.
+
+Consider what a body of written matter there must have been to instruct
+and maintain the technical excellence of Roman work. What a mass of
+books on engineering and on ship-building and on road-making; what
+quantities of tables and ready-reckoners, all that civilization must
+have produced and depended upon. Time has preserved much verse, and not
+only the best by any means, more prose, particularly the theological
+prose of the end of the Roman time. The technical stuff, which must, in
+the nature of things, have been indefinitely larger in amount, has (save
+in one or two instances and allusions) gone.
+
+Consider, again, all that mass of seven hundred years which was called
+Carthage. It was not only seven hundred years of immense wealth, of
+oligarchic government, of a vast population, and of what so often goes
+with commerce and oligarchy--civil and internal peace. A few stones to
+prove the magnitude of its municipal work, a few ornaments, a few
+graves--all the rest is absolutely gone. A few days' marches away there
+is an example I have quoted so often elsewhere that I am ashamed of
+referring to it again, but it does seem to me the most amazing example
+of historical loss in the world. It is the site of Hippo Regius. Here
+was St. Augustine's town, one of the greatest and most populous of a
+Roman province. It was so large that an army of eighty thousand men
+could not contain it, and even with such a host its siege dragged on for
+a year. There is not a sign of that great town today.
+
+A suburb, well without the walls--to be more accurate, a neighbouring
+village--carries on the name under the form of Bona, and that is all. A
+vast, fertile plain of black rich earth, now largely planted with
+vineyards, stands where Hippo stood. How can the stones have gone? How
+can it have been worth while to cart away the marble columns? Why are
+there no broken statues on such a ground, and no relics of the gods?
+
+Nay, the wells are stopped up from which the people drank, and the
+lining of the wells is not to be discovered in the earth, and the
+foundations of the walls, and even the ornaments of the people and their
+coins, all these have been spirited away.
+
+Then there are the roads. Consider that great road which reached from
+Amiens to the main port of Gaul, the Portus Itius at Boulogne. It is
+still in use. It was in use throughout the Middle Ages. Up that road the
+French Army marched to Crcy. It points straight to its goal upon the
+sea coast. Its whole purpose lay in reaching the goal. For some
+extraordinary reason, which I have never seen explained or even guessed
+at, there comes a point as it nears the coast where it suddenly ceases
+to be.
+
+No sand has blown over it. It runs through no marshes; the land is firm
+and fertile. Why should that, the most important section of the great
+road which led northward from Rome, have failed, and have failed so
+recently, in the history of man? Where this great road crosses streams
+and might reasonably be lost, at its _pontes_, its bridges, it has
+remained, and is of such importance as to have given a name to a whole
+countryside--_Ponthieu_. But north of that it is gone.
+
+Nearly every Roman road of Gaul and Britain presents something of the
+same puzzle in some parts of its course. It will run clear and
+followable enough, or form a modern highway for mile upon mile, and then
+not at a marsh where one would expect its disappearance, nor in some
+desolate place where it might have fallen out of use, but in the
+neighbourhood of a great city and at the very chief of its purpose, it
+is gone. It is so with the Stane Street that led up from the garrison of
+Chichester and linked it with the garrison of London. You can
+reconstruct it almost to a yard until you reach Epsom Downs. There you
+find it pointing to London Bridge, and remaining as clear as in any
+other part of its course: much clearer than in most other sections. But
+try to follow it on from Epsom Racecourse, and you entirely fail. The
+soil is the same; the conditions of that soil are excellent for its
+retention; but a year's work has taught me that there is no
+reconstructing it save by hypothesis and guesswork from this point to
+the crossing of the Thames.
+
+What happened to all that mass of local documents whereby we ought to be
+able to build up the territorial scheme and the landed regime of old
+France? Much remains, if you will, in the shape of chance charters and
+family papers. Even in the archives of Paris you can get enough to whet
+your curiosity. But not even in one narrow district can you obtain
+enough to reconstruct the whole truth. There is not a scholar in Europe
+who can tell you exactly how land was owned and held, even, let us say,
+on the estates of Rheims or by the family of Cond. And men are ready to
+quarrel as to how many peasants owned and how much of their present
+ownership was due to the Revolution, evidence has already become so
+wholly imperfect in that tiny stretch of historical time.
+
+But, after all, perhaps one ought not to wonder too much that material
+things should thus capriciously vanish. Time, which has secured Timgad
+so that it looks like an unroofed city of yesterday, has swept and razed
+Laimboesis. The two towns were neighbours--one was taken and the other
+left--and there is no sort of reason any man can give for it. Perhaps
+one ought not too much to wonder, for a greater wonder still is the
+sudden evaporation and loss of the great movements of the human soul.
+That what our ancestors passionately believed or passionately disputed
+should, by their descendants in one generation or in two, become
+meaningless, absurd, or false--this is the greatest marvel and the
+greatest tragedy of all.
+
+
+
+
+On the Reading of History
+
+
+Let me at the beginning of this short article present two facts to the
+reader. Neither can be disputed, and that is why I call them facts and
+put them in the forefront before I begin upon my theories.
+
+The first fact is that the record of what men have done in the past and
+how they have done it is the chief positive guide to present action. The
+second fact is that most men must now receive the impression of the past
+through reading.
+
+Put these two facts together and you get the fundamental truth that upon
+the right reading of history the right use of citizenship in England
+today will depend. It will of course depend upon other things as well:
+chiefly upon the human conscience; for if you were to pack off to an
+island a hundred families as ignorant as any human families can be of
+tradition, and wholly ignorant of positive history, those families would
+yet be able to create a human society and the voice of God within them
+would give just limits to their actions.
+
+Still, of those factors in civic action amenable to civic direction,
+conscious and positively effective, there is nothing to compare with the
+right teaching and the right reading of history. Now teaching is today
+ruined. The old machinery by which the whole nation could be got to know
+all essential human things, has been destroyed, and the teaching of
+history in particular has been not only ruined but rendered ridiculous.
+There is no historical school properly so-called in modern England; that
+is, there is no organization framed with the sole object of extending
+and co-ordinating historical knowledge and of choosing men for their
+capacity to discover upon the one hand and to teach upon the other.
+There is nothing approaching to it in the two ancient universities,
+because the choice of teachers there depends upon a multitude of
+considerations quite separate from those mentioned, and the capacity to
+discover, to know, and to teach history, though it _may_ be present
+in a tutor, will only be accidentally so present: while as for
+co-ordination of knowledge, there is no attempt at it. Even where very
+hard work is done, and, when it concerns local history, very useful
+work, history as a general study is not grasped because the universities
+have not grasped it.
+
+History is to be had by the modern Englishman from his own reading only;
+and I am here concerned with the question how he shall read history with
+profit.
+
+To read history with profit, history must be true, or at any rate the
+reader must have a power of discerning what is true in the midst of much
+that may be false. I will bargain, for instance, that in the summer of
+1899 the great mass of men, and especially the great mass of men who had
+passed through the universities, were under the impression that armies
+had left England for the purpose of conquest in distant countries with
+invariable success: that that success had been unique, unsupported and
+always decisive, and that the wealth of the country after each success
+had increased, not diminished. In other words, had history been studied
+even by the tiny minority who have education today in England, Sir
+William Butler would have counted more than the Joels, and the late Mr.
+Barnato (as he called himself); the South African War would not have
+taken place in a society which knew its past.
+
+Again, you may pick almost any phrase referring to the Middle Ages out
+of any newspaper--if you are a man read in the Middle Ages--and you will
+find in it not only a definite historical falsehood with regard to the
+fact referred to, or the analogy drawn, but also a false philosophy.
+
+For instance, the other day I read this phrase with regard to the burial
+of a certain gentleman of my neighbourhood in Sussex: "We are surely
+past the phase of mediaeval thought in which it was imagined that a few
+words spoken over the lifeless clay would determine the fate of the soul
+for all eternity." Just notice the myriad falsehoods of a phrase like
+that! I will not discuss what is connoted by the words "past the phase
+of mediaeval thought"--it connotes of course that the human mind changes
+fundamentally with the centuries, and therefore that whatever we think
+is probably wrong, and that what we are sure of we cannot be sure of, an
+absurd conclusion. I will only note the historical falsehoods. When on
+earth did the "Middle Ages" lay down that a "few words over lifeless
+clay determined the fate of the soul for all eternity"? On the contrary,
+the Middle Ages laid it down--it was their peculiar doctrine--that it
+was impossible to determine the fate of the soul; that no one could tell
+the fate of any one individual soul; that it was a grievous sin, among
+the most grievous of sins, to affirm positive knowledge that any
+individual had lost his soul. More than this, the Middle Ages were
+peculiar in their insistence upon the doctrine that a man might have
+been very bad and might have had all the appearance of having lost his
+soul so far as human judgment went, and yet was liable to a midway place
+between salvation and damnation, and they affirmed that this midway
+place did not lead to either fate but necessarily to salvation and to
+salvation only.
+
+Again, whatever could help the human soul to salvation was by the most
+rigorous theological definition of the Middle Ages applicable only
+before death. After death the fate of the soul was sealed, and the man
+once dead, the "lifeless clay" (as the journalist put it--and the Middle
+Ages was the only source from which he got the idea of clay at all),
+whether it were that of a Pope or of some random highwayman, had no
+effect whatsoever upon the fate of the soul. The greatest saint might
+have offered the most solemn sacrifice on its behalf for years, and if
+the soul were damned his sacrifice would have been of no avail.
+
+I have taken this example absolutely at random. But the modern reader,
+apart from sentences as clearly provocative of criticism as this, is
+perpetually coming across references, allusions, and parallels which
+take a certain course of human European and English history for granted.
+How is he to distinguish when that course is rightly drawn from when it
+is wrongly drawn?
+
+Thus in some newspaper article written by an able man, and dealing, let
+us say, with the territorial army, one might come across a sentence like
+this: "Napoleon himself used troops so raw that they were actually
+drilled on the march to the battlefield." That would be a perfectly true
+statement. Any amount of criticism of it lies in connexion with Mr.
+Haldane's scheme, but still it is a true piece of history. Napoleon did
+get raw recruits into his battalions just before any one of his famous
+marches began, and drill them on the way to victory. In the next column
+of the newspaper the reader may be presented with a sentence like this:
+"The captures of English by privateers in the Revolutionary War should
+teach us what foreign cruisers can do."
+
+There were plenty of captures by privateers in the Revolutionary Wars;
+if I remember rightly, many many hundreds, all discreetly hidden from
+the common or garden reader until party politics necessitated their
+resurrection a hundred years after the event, but they have nothing
+whatsoever to do with modern circumstances.
+
+Both statements are true then, and yet one can be truthfully applied
+today, while the other cannot.
+
+How is the plain reader to distinguish between two historical truths,
+one of which is a useful modern analogy, the other of which is a
+ludicrously misleading one?
+
+The reader, it would seem, has no criterion by which to distinguish what
+has been withheld from him and what has been emphasized; he may, from
+his knowledge of the historian's character or bias, stand upon his
+guard, but he can do little more.
+
+There is another difficulty. It is less subtle and less common, but it
+exists. I mean brute lying. You do not often get the lie direct in
+official history; it would be too dangerous a game to play in the face
+of the critics, though some historians, and notably the French historian
+Taine, have played it boldly enough, and have stated dogmatically, as
+historical happenings, things that never happened and that they knew
+never happened. But the plain or brute historical lie is more commonly
+found in the pages of ephemeral journalism. Thus the other day, with
+regard to the Budget, I saw some financial operation alluded to as
+comparable with "the pulling out of Jews' teeth for money in the Middle
+Ages." When did anyone in the Middle Ages pull out a Jew's teeth for
+money? There is just one very doubtful story told about King John, and
+that story is told without proof by one of John's worst enemies, in a
+mass of other accusations many of which can be proved to be false.
+
+Again, I turn to an Oxford History of the French Revolution, and I find
+the remark that the massacres of September were organized by the men
+from Marseilles. They were not organized by the men from Marseilles. The
+men from Marseilles had nothing to do with them, and the fact has been
+public property since the publication of Pollio and Marcel's monograph
+twenty years ago.
+
+What criterion can the ordinary reader choose when he is confronted by
+difficulties of this sort? I will suggest to him one which seems to me
+by far the most valuable. It is the reading of firsthand authorities. It
+is all a matter of habit. When the original authorities upon which
+history is based were difficult to get at, when few of those in foreign
+tongues had been translated, and when those that had been published were
+published in the most expensive form, the ordinary reader had to depend
+upon an historian who would summarize for him the reading of another.
+The ordinary reader was compelled to read secondary history or none. Now
+secondary history is among the most valuable of literary efforts; where
+evidence is slight, the judgment of an historian who knows from other
+reading the general character of the period, is most valuable. Where
+evidence is abundant, and therefore confusing, the historian used to the
+selection and weighing of it performs a most valuable function. Still,
+the reader who is not acquainted with original authorities does not
+really know history and is at the mercy of whatever myth or tradition
+may be handed to him in print.
+
+We should remember that today, even in England, original authorities are
+quite easy to get at. Two little books, for instance, occur to me out of
+hundreds: Mr. Rait's book on Mary Stuart and Mr. Archer's on the Third
+Crusade. In each of these the reader gets in a cheap form, in modern and
+readable English, the kind of evidence upon which historians base their
+history, and he can use that evidence in the light of his own knowledge
+of human nature and his own judgment of human life.
+
+Or again, if he wants to know what the Romans really knew or said they
+knew about the German tribes who, as pirates, so greatly influenced the
+history of England, let him get Mr. Rouse's edition of Grenewey's
+translation of the Germania in Blackie's series of English texts; it
+will only cost sixpence, and for that money he will get a bit of
+Caesar's Gallic War and the Agricola as well. But the list nowadays is a
+very long one, luckily, and the lay reader has only to choose what
+period he would like to read up, and he will find for nearly every one
+first-hand evidence ready, cheap and published in a readable modern
+form. That he should take such first-hand evidence is the very best
+advice that any honest historian can give.
+
+
+
+
+The Victory
+
+
+The study of history, like the exploration, the thorough exploration, of
+any other field, leads one to perpetual novelties, miracles, and
+unexpected things; and I, in the study of the revolutionary wars, came
+across the story of a battle which completely possessed my spirit.
+
+It would not be to my purpose here to give its name. It is not among the
+most famous; it is not Waterloo, nor Leipsic, nor Austerlitz, nor even
+Jemappes. The more I read into the night the more I perceived that upon
+the issue of that struggle depended the fate of the modern world. So
+completely did the notes of Carnot and a few private letters that had
+been put before me absorb my attention that I will swear the bugle-calls
+of those two days (for it was a two-days' struggle) sounded more clearly
+in my ears than the rumble of the London streets, and, as this died out
+with the advance of the night and the approach of morning, I was living
+entirely upon that ridge in Flanders, watching, as a man watches an
+arena, whether the new things or the old should be victorious. It was
+the new that conquered.
+
+From that evening I was determined to visit this place of which so far I
+had but read, and to see how far it might agree with the vision I had
+had of it, and to people actual fields with the ghosts of dead soldiers.
+And for the better appreciation of the drama I chose the season and the
+days on which the fight had been driven across that rolling land, and I
+came there, as the Republicans had come, a little before the dawn.
+
+The hillside was silent and deserted, more even than are commonly such
+places, though silence and desertion seem the common atmosphere of all
+the fields on which such fates have been decided. A man looking over
+Carthage Bay, especially a man looking at those sodden pools that were
+the sound harbours of Carthage, might be in an uninhabited world; and
+the loop of the Trebbia is the same, and the edge of Fontenoy; and even
+here in England that hillside looking south up which the Normans charged
+at Battle is a quiet and a drowsy sort of place.... So it was here in
+Flanders.
+
+For two miles as I ascended by the little sunken lane which the extreme
+right wing had followed in the last attack I saw neither man nor beast,
+but only the same stubble of the same autumn fields, and the same colder
+sun shining upon the empty uplands until I reached the crest where the
+Hungarian and the Croat had met the charge, and had disputed the little
+village for two hours--a dispute upon which hung your fate and mine and
+that of Europe.
+
+It was a tiny little village, seven or eight houses together and no
+more, with a crazy little wooden steeple to its church all twisted awry,
+large barns, and comfortable hedgerows of the Northern kind; and from it
+one looked out westwards over an infinity of country, following low
+crest after low crest, down on to the French plains. I went into the inn
+of the place to drink, and found the cobbler there complaining that
+wealth disturbed the natural equality of men. Then I wandered out,
+pacing this point and that which I knew accurately from my maps, and
+thinking of the noise of the war. Behind the little church, upon a
+ramshackle green not large enough to pitch the stumps for single-wicket,
+was the modest monument, a cock in bronze, crowing, and the word
+"Victory" stamped into the granite of the pedestal; the whole thing, I
+suppose, not ten feet high. The bronze was very well done; it savoured
+strongly of Paris and looked odd in this abandoned little place. But
+every time my eyes sank from the bronze, to look at some other point in
+the landscape to identify the emplacement of such and such a battery or
+the gully that had concealed the advance of such and such a troop, my
+glance perpetually returned to that word "VICTORY," sculptured by itself
+upon the stone. It was indeed a victory; it was a victory which, for its
+huge unexpectedness, for the noise of it, for the length of time during
+which it was in doubt, for its final success, there is no parallel, and
+yet it is by no means among the famous battles of the world. And though
+the French count it one among the thousand of their battles, I doubt
+whether even in Paris most men would recognize it for the hammer-blow it
+was. The men of the time hardly knew it, though Carnot guessed at it, and
+now to-day in Sorbonne I think that regal fight is taking its true place.
+
+So I went down the eight miles of front northward along the ridge; for
+even that battle, a hundred and more years ago, had an extended front of
+this kind. I recognized the tall majestic fringe of beeches from which
+had issued the last of the Royalist regiments bearing for the last time
+upon a European field the white flag of the Bourbon Monarchy; I came
+beyond it to the combe fringed with its semicircle of underbrush in
+which Coburg had massed his guns in the last effort to break the French
+centre when his flank was turned. I came to the main highway, very
+broad, straight, and paved, which cuts this battlefield in two, and then
+beyond it to the central position whose capture had made the final
+manoeuvre possible.
+
+All Wednesday the Grenadiers, German, tall, padded, smart, and stout,
+had held their ground. It was not until Thursday, and by noon, that they
+were slowly driven up the hill by the ragged lads, the Gauls, shoeless,
+some not in uniform at all, half-mutinous, drunk with pain and glory.
+And I remembered, as the scene returned to me, that this battle, like so
+many of the Revolution, had been a battle of men against boys; how grey
+and veteran and trained in arms were the Austrians and the Prussians,
+their allies, how strict in orders, how calm: and what children the
+Terror had called up by force from the exhausted fields of remote French
+provinces, to break them here against the frontier, like water against a
+wall...!
+
+There was a little chap, twelve years old, a drummer; he had crept and
+crawled by hedgerows till he found himself behind the line of those
+volleying Grenadiers. There, "before his side," and breaking all rules,
+he had sounded the roll of the charge. They cut him down and killed him,
+and the roll of his drum ceased hard. A generation or more later,
+digging for foundations at this spot, the builders of the Peace came
+upon his bones, the little bones of a child heaped pell-mell with
+skeletons of the fallen giants round him.
+
+I went back into the town in whose defence the battle had been waged,
+and there I saw again in bronze this little lad, head high and mouth
+open, a-beating of his drum, and again the word "VICTORY."
+
+All that effort was undertaken, all those young men and children killed,
+for something that was to happen for the salvation of the world; it has
+not come. All that iron resistance of the German line had been forged
+and organized till it almost conquered, till it almost thwarted, the
+Republic, and it also had been organized for the defence, and, as some
+thought, for the salvation, of the world. Some great good was to have
+come by the storming of that hill, or some great good by the defeat of
+the impetuous charge. Well, the hill was stormed, and (if you will) at
+Leipsic the effort which had stormed it was rolled back. What has
+happened to the High Goddess whom that youth followed, and worshipped as
+they say, and what to the Gods whom their enemies defended? The ridge is
+exactly the same.
+
+
+
+
+Reality
+
+
+A couple of generations ago there was a sort of man going mournfully
+about who complained of the spread of education. He had an ill-ease in
+his mind. He feared that book learning would bring us no good, and he
+was called a fool for his pains. Not undeservedly--for his thoughts were
+muddled, and if his heart was good it was far better than his head. He
+argued badly or he merely affirmed, but he had strong allies (Ruskin was
+one of them), and, like every man who is sincere, there was something in
+what he said; like every type which is numerous, there was a human
+feeling behind him: and he was very numerous.
+
+Now that he is pretty well extinct we are beginning to understand what
+he meant and what there was to be said for him. The greatest of the
+French Revolutionists was right--"After bread, the most crying need of
+the populace is knowledge." But what knowledge?
+
+The truth is that secondary impressions, impressions gathered from books
+and from maps, are valuable as adjuncts to primary impressions (that is,
+impressions gathered through the channel of our senses), or, what is
+always almost as good and sometimes better, the interpreting voice of
+the living man. For you must allow me the paradox that in some
+mysterious way the voice and gesture of a living witness always convey
+something of the real impression he has had, and sometimes convey more
+than we should have received ourselves from our own sight and hearing of
+the thing related.
+
+Well, I say, these secondary impressions are valuable as adjuncts to
+primary impressions. But when they stand absolute and have hardly any
+reference to primary impressions, then they may deceive. When they stand
+not only absolute but clothed with authority, and when they pretend to
+convince us even against our own experience, they are positively undoing
+the work which education was meant to do. When we receive them merely as
+an enlargement of what we know and make of the unseen things of which we
+read, things in the image of the seen, then they quite distort our
+appreciation of the world.
+
+Consider so simple a thing as a river. A child learns its map and knows,
+or thinks it knows, that such and such rivers characterize such and such
+nations and their territories. Paris stands upon the River Seine, Rome
+upon the River Tiber, New Orleans on the Mississippi, Toledo upon the
+River Tagus, and so forth. That child will know one river, the river
+near his home. And he will think of all those other rivers in its image.
+He will think of the Tagus and the Tiber and the Seine and the
+Mississippi--and they will all be the river near his home. Then let him
+travel, and what will he come across? The Seine, if he is from these
+islands, may not disappoint him or astonish him with a sense of novelty
+and of ignorance. It will indeed look grander and more majestic, seen
+from the enormous forest heights above its lower course, than what,
+perhaps, he had thought possible in a river, but still it will be a
+river of water out of which a man can drink, with clear-cut banks and
+with bridges over it, and with boats that ply up and down. But let him
+see the Tagus at Toledo, and what he finds is brown rolling mud, pouring
+solid after the rains, or sluggish and hardly a river after long
+drought. Let him go down the Tiber, down the Valley of the Tiber, on
+foot, and he will retain until the last miles an impression of nothing
+but a turbid mountain torrent, mixed with the friable soil in its bed.
+Let him approach the Mississippi in the most part of its long course and
+the novelty will be more striking still. It will not seem to him a river
+at all (if he be from Northern Europe); it will seem a chance flood. He
+will come to it through marshes and through swamps, crossing a deserted
+backwater, finding firm land beyond, then coming to further shallow
+patches of wet, out of which the tree-stumps stand, and beyond which
+again mud-heaps and banks and groups of reeds leave undetermined, for
+one hundred yards after another, the limits of the vast stream. At last,
+if he has a boat with him, he may make some place where he has a clear
+view right across to low trees, tiny from their distance, similarly half
+swamped upon a further shore, and behind them a low escarpment of bare
+earth. That is the Mississippi nine times out of ten, and to an
+Englishman who had expected to find from his early reading or his maps a
+larger Thames it seems for all the world like a stretch of East Anglian
+flood, save that it is so much more desolate.
+
+The maps are coloured to express the claims of Governments. What do they
+tell you of the social truth? Go on foot or bicycling through the more
+populated upland belt of Algiers and discover the curious mixture of
+security and war which no map can tell you of and which none of the
+geographies make you understand. The excellent roads, trodden by men
+that cannot make a road; the walls as ready loopholed for fighting; the
+Christian church and the mosque in one town; the necessity for and the
+hatred of the European; the indescribable difference of the sun, which
+here, even in winter, has something malignant about it, and strikes as
+well as warms; the mountains odd, unlike our mountains; the forests,
+which stand as it were by hardihood, and seem at war against the
+influence of dryness and the desert winds, with their trees far apart,
+and between them no grass, but bare earth alone.
+
+So it is with the reality of arms and with the reality of the sea. Too
+much reading of battles has ever unfitted men for war; too much talk of
+the sea is a poison in these great town populations of ours which know
+nothing of the sea. Who that knows anything of the sea will claim
+certitude in connexion with it? And yet there is a school which has by
+this time turned its mechanical system almost into a commonplace upon
+our lips, and talks of that most perilous thing, the fortunes of a
+fleet, as though it were a merely numerical and calculable thing! The
+greatest of Armadas may set out and not return.
+
+There is one experience of travel and of the physical realities of the
+world which has been so widely repeated, and which men have so
+constantly verified, that I could mention it as a last example of my
+thesis without fear of misunderstanding. I mean the quality of a great
+mountain.
+
+To one that has never seen a mountain it may seem a full and a fine
+piece of knowledge to be acquainted with its height in feet exactly, its
+situation; nay, many would think themselves learned if they know no more
+than its conventional name. But the thing itself! The curious sense of
+its isolation from the common world, of its being the habitation of awe,
+perhaps the brooding-place of a god!
+
+I had seen many mountains, I had travelled in many places, and I had
+read many particular details in the books--and so well noted them upon
+the maps that I could have re-drawn the maps--concerning the Cerdagne.
+None the less the sight of that wall of the Cerdagne, when first it
+struck me, coming down the pass from Tourcarol, was as novel as though
+all my life had been spent upon empty plains. By the map it was 9000
+feet. It might have been 90,000! The wonderment as to what lay beyond,
+the sense that it was a limit to known things, its savage intangibility,
+its sheer silence! Nothing but the eye seeing could give one all those
+things.
+
+The old complain that the young will not take advice. But the wisest
+will tell them that, save blindly and upon authority, the young cannot
+take it. For most of human and social experience is words to the young,
+and the reality can come only with years. The wise complain of the jingo
+in every country; and properly, for he upsets the plans of statesmen,
+miscalculates the value of national forces, and may, if he is powerful
+enough, destroy the true spirit of armies. But the wise would be wiser
+still if, while they blamed the extravagance of this sort of man, they
+would recognize that it came from that half-knowledge of mere names and
+lists which excludes reality. It is maps and newspapers that turn an
+honest fool into a jingo.
+
+It is so again with distance, and it is so with time. Men will not grasp
+distance unless they have traversed it, or unless it be represented to
+them vividly by the comparison of great landscapes. Men will not grasp
+historical time unless the historian shall be at the pains to give them
+what historians so rarely give, the measure of a period in terms of a
+human life. It is from secondary impressions divorced from reality that
+a contempt for the past arises, and that the fatal illusion of some
+gradual process of betterment of "progress" vulgarizes the minds of men
+and wastes their effort. It is from secondary impressions divorced from
+reality that a society imagines itself diseased when it is healthy, or
+healthy when it is diseased. And it is from secondary impressions
+divorced from reality that springs the amazing power of the little
+second-rate public man in those modern machines that think themselves
+democracies. This last is a power which, luckily, cannot be greatly
+abused, for the men upon whom it is thrust are not capable even of abuse
+upon a great scale. It is none the less marvellous in its falsehood.
+
+Now you will say at the end of this, Since you blame so much the power
+for distortion and for ill residing in our great towns, in our system of
+primary education and in our papers and in our books, what remedy can
+you propose? Why, none, either immediate or mechanical. The best and the
+greatest remedy is a true philosophy, which shall lead men always to ask
+themselves what they really know and in what order of certitude they
+know it; where authority actually resides and where it is usurped. But,
+apart from the advent, or rather the recapture, of a true philosophy by
+a European society, two forces are at work which will always bring
+reality back, though less swiftly and less whole. The first is the poet,
+and the second is Time.
+
+Sooner or later Time brings the empty phrase and the false conclusion up
+against what is; the empty imaginary looks reality in the face and the
+truth at once conquers. In war a nation learns whether it is strong or
+no, and how it is strong and how weak; it learns it as well in defeat as
+in victory. In the long processes of human lives, in the succession of
+generations, the real necessities and nature of a human society destroy
+any false formula upon which it was attempted to conduct it. Time must
+always ultimately teach.
+
+The poet, in some way it is difficult to understand (unless we admit
+that he is a seer), is also very powerful as the ally of such an
+influence. He brings out the inner part of things and presents them to
+men in such a way that they cannot refuse but must accept it. But how
+the mere choice and rhythm of words should produce so magical an effect
+no one has yet been able to comprehend, and least of all the poets
+themselves.
+
+
+
+
+On the Decline of the Book: [And Especially of the Historical Book]
+
+
+It is an interesting speculation by what means the Book lost its old
+position in this country. This is not only an interesting speculation,
+but one which nearly concerns a vital matter. For if men fall into the
+habit of neglecting true books in an old and traditional civilization,
+the inaccuracy of their judgments and the illusions to which they will
+be subject, must increase.
+
+To take but one example: history. The less the true historical book is
+read and the more men depend upon ephemeral statement, the more will
+legend crystallize, the harder will it be to destroy in the general mind
+some comforting lie, and the great object-lesson of politics (which is
+an accurate knowledge of how men have acted in the past) will become at
+last unknown.
+
+There are many, especially among younger men, who would contest the
+premiss upon which all this is founded. They may point out, for
+instance, that the actual number of bound books bought in a given time
+at present is much larger than ever it was before. They may point out
+again, and with justice, that the proportion of the population which
+reads books of any sort, though perhaps not larger than it was three
+hundred years ago, is very much larger than it was one hundred years
+ago. And it may further be affirmed with truth that the range of
+subjects now covered by books produced and sold is much wider than ever
+it was before.
+
+All this is true; and yet it is also true that the Book as a factor in
+our civilization has not only declined but has almost disappeared. Were
+many more dogs to be possessed in England than are now possessed, but
+were they to be all mongrels, among which none could be found capable of
+retrieving, or of following a fox or a hare with any discipline, one
+would have a right to say that the dog as a factor of our civilization
+had declined. Were many more men in England able to ride horses more or
+less, but were the number of those who rode constantly and for pleasure
+enormously to diminish, and were the new millions who could just manage
+to keep on horseback to prefer animals without spirit on which they
+would feel safe, one would have a right to say that the horse was
+declining as a factor in our civilization; and this is exactly what has
+happened with the Book.
+
+The excellence of a book and its value as a book depend upon two
+factors, which are usually, though not always, united in varied
+proportions: first, that it should put something of value to the reader,
+whether of value as a discovery and an enlargement of wisdom or of value
+as a new emphasis laid upon old and sound morals; secondly, that this
+thing added or renewed in human life should be presented in such a
+manner as to give permanent aesthetic pleasure.
+
+That is not a first-rate book which, while it is admirably written,
+teaches something false or something evil; nor is that a first-rate book
+which, though it discover a completely new thing, or emphasize the most
+valuable department of morals, is so constructed as to be unreadable.
+Now it will not be denied that as far as these two factors are
+concerned--and I repeat they are almost always found in combination--the
+position of the Book has dwindled almost to nothingness. One could give
+examples of almost every kind: one could show how poetry, no matter how
+appreciated or praised, no longer sells. One could show--and this is one
+of the worst signs of all--how men will buy by the hundred thousand
+anything at all which has the hall mark of an established reputation,
+quite careless as to their love of it or their appetite for it. One
+could further show how more than one book of permanent value in English
+life has been discovered in our generation outside England, and has been
+as it were thrust upon the English public by foreign opinion.
+
+But for my purpose it will be sufficient to take one very important
+branch which I can claim to have watched with some care, and that is the
+branch of History.
+
+It may be said with truth that in our generation no single first-rate
+piece of history has enjoyed an appreciable sale. That is not true of
+France, it is not true of the United States, it is not even true of
+Germany in her intellectual decline, but it is true of England.
+
+History is an excellent test. No man will read history, at least history
+of an instructive sort, unless he is a man who can read a book, and
+desires to possess one. To read History involves not only some permanent
+interest in things not immediately sensible, but also some permanent
+brain-work in the reader; for as one reads history one cannot, if one is
+an intelligent being, forbear perpetually to contrast the lessons it
+teaches with the received opinions of our time. Again, History is
+valuable as an example in the general thesis I am maintaining, because
+no good history can be written without a great measure of hard work. To
+make a history at once accurate, readable, useful, and new, is probably
+the hardest of all literary efforts; a man writing such history is
+driving more horses abreast in his team than a man writing any other
+kind of literary matter. He must keep his imagination active; his style
+must be not only lucid, but also must arrest the reader; he must
+exercise perpetually a power of selection which plays over innumerable
+details; he must, in the midst of such occupations, preserve unity of
+design, as much as must the novelist or the playwright; and yet with all
+this there is not a verb, an adjective or a substantive which, if it
+does not repose upon established evidence, will not mar the particular
+type of work on which he is engaged.
+
+As an example of what I mean, consider two sentences: The first is taken
+from the 432nd page of that exceedingly unequal publication, the
+_Cambridge History of the French Revolution_; the second I have
+made up on the spur of the moment; both deal with the Battle of
+Wattignies. The "Cambridge History" version runs as follows:--
+
+On October 15 the relieving force, 50,000 strong, attacked the Austrian
+covering force at Wattignies; the battle raged all that day and was most
+furious on the right, in front of the village of Wattignies, which was
+taken and lost three times; on the 17th the French expected another
+general engagement but the enemy had drawn off.
+
+There are here five great positive errors in six lines. The French were
+not 50,000 strong, the attack on the 15th was not on Wattignies, but on
+Dourlers; Wattignies was not taken and lost three times; the fight of
+the 15th was _least_ pressed on the right (harder on the left and
+hardest in the centre) and no one--not the least recruit--expected
+Coburg to come _back_ on the 17th. Why, he had crossed the Sambre
+at every point the day before! As for negative errors, or errors of
+omission, they are capital, and the chief is that the victory was won on
+the second day, the 16th, of which no mention is made.
+
+Now contrast such a sentence with the following:--
+
+On October 15th the relieving force, 42,000 strong, attacked the
+Austrian centre at Dourlers, and made demonstrations upon its wings; the
+attack upon Dourlers (which village had been taken and lost three times)
+having failed, upon the following day, October 16th, the extreme left of
+the enemy's position at Wattignies was attacked and carried; the enemy
+thus outflanked was compelled to retreat, and Maubeuge was relieved the
+same evening.
+
+In the first sentence (which bears the hall mark of the University)
+every error that could possibly be made in so few lines has been made.
+The numbers are wrong; the nature of the fighting is misstated; the
+village in the centre is confused with that on the extreme right; the
+critical second day is altogether omitted, and every portion of the
+sentence, verb, adjective, and substantive, is either directly
+inaccurate or indirectly conveys an inaccurate impression. The second
+sentence, bald in style and uninteresting in presentation as the first,
+has the merit of telling the truth. But--and here is the point--it would
+be impossible to criticize the first sentence unless someone had read up
+the battle, and to read up that battle one has to depend on five or six
+documents, some unpublished (like much of Jourdan's Memoirs), some of
+them involving a visit to Maubeuge itself, some, like Pierrat's book,
+very difficult to obtain (for it is neither in the British Museum nor in
+the Bodleian) some few the writings of contemporary eyewitnesses, and
+yet themselves demonstrably inaccurate. All these must be read and
+collated, and if possible the actual ground of the battle visited,
+before the first simple inaccurate sentence can be properly criticized
+or the second bald but accurate sentence framed. None of these
+authorities can have been so much as heard of by the official historian
+I have quoted.
+
+It would be redundant to press the point. Most readers know well enough
+what labour the just writing of history involves, and how excellent a
+type it is of that "making of a book" which art is, as I have said,
+imperilled by apathy at the present day.
+
+Consider for a moment who were those that purchased historical works in
+this country in the past. There were, first of all, the landed gentry.
+In almost every great country-house you will find a good old library,
+and that good old library you will discover to be, as a rule, most
+valuable and most complete in what concerns the end of the eighteenth
+and the beginning of the nineteenth centuries. A very large proportion
+of history, and history of the best sort, is to be found upon those
+shelves. The standard dwindles, though it is fairly well maintained
+during the first two-thirds of the nineteenth century. Then--as a
+rule--it abruptly comes to an end. One may take as a sort of bourne, the
+two great books Macaulay's _History_ and Kinglake's, for an earlier
+and a later limit. Most of these libraries contain Macaulay; some few
+Kinglake; hardly one possesses later works of value.
+
+It may be urged in defence of the buyer that no later works of value
+exist. Put so broadly, the statement is erroneous; but the truth which
+it contains is in itself dependent upon the lack of public support for
+good historical work. When there is a fortune for the man who writes in
+accordance with whatever form of self-appreciation happens for the
+moment to be popular, while a steady view and an accurate presentation
+of the past can find no sale, then that steady view and that accurate
+presentation cannot be pursued save by men who are wealthy, or by men
+who are endowed, but even wealthy men will hesitate to write what they
+know will not be read, and for history no one is endowed.
+
+Our Universities were framed for many purposes, of which the cultivation
+of learning was but one; in that one field, however, a particular form
+of learning was taken very seriously, and was pursued with admirable
+industry; I mean an acquaintance with and an imitation of the Latin and
+Greek Classics.
+
+It was a particular character of this form of learning that proficiency
+in it would lead to undisputed honours. The scholar recognized the
+superior scholar; the field of inquiry was by convention highly limited;
+it had been thoroughly explored; discussion upon such results as were
+doubtful did not involve a difference in general philosophy.
+
+With history it is otherwise. Whether such things have or have not
+happened, and, above all, if they have happened, the _way_ in which
+they have happened, is to our general judgment of contemporary men what
+evidence is to a criminal trial. Facts won't give way. If, therefore,
+there are vested interests, moral or material, to be maintained, history
+is, of all the sciences or arts, that one most likely to suffer at the
+hands of those connected with such interests. Even where the truth will
+be of advantage to those interests, they are afraid of it, because the
+thorough discussion of it will involve the presentation of views
+disadvantageous to privilege.
+
+Where, as is much more commonly the case (for vested interests, moral or
+material, are unreasoning and selfish things), the truth would certainly
+offend them, they are the more determined to prevent its appearance.
+
+But of all vested interests none deal with such assured incomes, none
+are so immune by influence and tradition as the Universities.
+
+Now, if the rich man has no temptation by way of popular fame, and the
+poor man no opportunity for endowment, in any branch of letters, there
+remains but a third form of support, and that is the support of the
+buying public. And the public will not buy.
+
+I will suppose the case of a popular novelist, who in a few months shall
+write, not an historical novel, but a piece of so-called history. He
+shall call it, for instance, "England's Heroes." Before you tell me his
+name, or what he has written, I can tell you here and now what he will
+write on any number of points. He will call Hastings Senlac. In the
+Battle of Hastings he will make out Harold to be the head of a highly
+patriotic nation called the "Anglo-Saxons"; they shall be desperately
+defending themselves against certain French-speaking Scandinavians
+called Normans. He will deplore the defeat, but will say it was all for
+the best. Magna Charta he will have signed at Runnymede--probably he
+will have it drawn up there as well. He will translate the most famous
+clause by the modern words "Judgment of his peers" and "law of the
+land." He will represent the Barons as having behind them the voice of
+the whole nation--and so forth. When he comes to Crcy he will make
+Edward III speak English. When he comes to Agincourt he will leave his
+readers as ignorant as himself upon the boundaries, numbers and power of
+the Burgundian faction. In the Civil War Oliver Cromwell will be an
+honest and not very rich gentleman of the middle-classes. The
+Parliamentary force will be that of the mass of the people against a few
+gallant but wicked aristocrats who follow the perfidious Charles. He
+will make no mention of the pay of the Ironsides. James II will be
+driven out by a popular uprising, in which the great Churchill will play
+an honourable and chivalric part. The loss of the American Colonies will
+be deplored, and will be ascribed to the folly of attempting to tax men
+of "Anglo-Saxon" blood, unless you grant them representation. The
+Continental troops will be treated as the descendants of Englishmen! The
+guns at Saratoga will be Colonial guns; the incapacity of the Fleet will
+not be touched upon. Here again, as in the case of the Battle of
+Hastings, all will be for the best, and there will be a few touching
+words upon the passionate affection now felt for Great Britain by the
+inhabitants of the United States. The defensive genius of Wellington
+will be represented as that of a general particularly great in the
+offensive. Talavera will be a victory. The Spanish Auxiliaries in the
+Peninsula will be contemptible. No guns will be abandoned before Corua,
+but what are left at Corua will be mentioned and re-embarked. The
+character of Nelson will receive a curious sort of glutinous praise; Emma
+Hamilton, not Naples, will be the stain upon his name; the Battle of
+Trafalgar will prevent the invasion of England.
+
+This is a lengthy but not unjust description of what this gentleman
+would write; it is rubbish from beginning to end. It would sell, because
+every word of it would foster in the reader the illusion that the
+community of which he is a member is invincible under all circumstances,
+that effort and self-denial and suffering are spared him alone out of
+all mankind, and that a little pleasurable excitement, preferably that
+to be obtained from his favourite game, is the chief factor in military
+success.
+
+I have omitted Alfred. Alfred in such a book will be the "teller of
+truth"--but he will not go to Mass.
+
+Given that the name is sufficiently well known, there is hardly any
+limit to the sale of a book modelled upon these lines. Contrast with its
+fate the fate of a book, written no matter how powerfully, that should
+insist upon truths, no matter how valuable to the English people at the
+present moment. These truths need by no means be unpleasant, though at
+the present moment an unpleasant truth is undoubtedly more valuable than
+a pleasant one. They could make as much or more for the glory of the
+country; they could be at any rate of infinitely greater service, but
+they would not be received, simply because they would compel close
+attention and brain-work in the reader as well as in the writer of them.
+An established groove would have to be abandoned; to use a strong
+metaphor, the reader would have to get out of bed, and that is what the
+modern reader will not do. Tell him that the men who fought on either
+side at Hastings' plain cared nothing for national but everything for
+feudal allegiance; that _lex terrae_ means the local custom of
+ordeal and not the "law of the land"; tell him that _judicium
+parium_ means the right of a noble to be judged by nobles, and has
+nothing to do with the jury system; tell him that Magna Charta was
+certainly drawn up before the meeting at Runnymede; that not until the
+Lancastrians did English kings speak English; that Oliver Cromwell owed
+his position to the enormous wealth of the Williamses, of whom had he
+not been a cadet, he would never have been known; tell him that the
+whole force of the Parliament resided in the squires and that the Civil
+Wars turned England into an oligarchy; tell him the exact truth about
+the infamy of Churchill; tell him what proportion of Englishmen during
+the American War were taxed without being represented; tell him what
+proportion of Washington's troops were of English blood; tell him any
+one illuminating and true thing about the history of his country, and
+the novelty will so offend him that a direct insult would have pleased
+him better.
+
+What is true of history is true of nearly all the rest, and the upshot
+of the whole matter is that there is not, either in private patronage or
+in popular demand, a chance for history in modern England.
+
+You can have excellent literature in journalism, and it will be widely
+read. I would say more--I would say that the better literature a
+newspaper admits, the more widely will that paper be read, or at any
+rate the greater will its influence be on modern Englishmen. But when it
+comes to the kneaded and wrought matter of the true Book, neither the
+public nor the centres of learning will have any of it, and the last
+medium which might make it possible, patronage, has equally disappeared,
+because the modern patron does not work in the daylight in the full view
+of the nation and with its full approbation, and he is no longer a public
+man (though he is richer than ever he was before). His patronage,
+therefore, though it is still considerable, is expended in satisfying his
+private demand. Private architects build him doubtful castles, private
+collectors get him manuscripts and jewels, but Letters, which are a public
+thing, he can no longer command.
+
+It might be asked, by way of conclusion, whether there is any remedy for
+this state of things. There is none. Its prime cause resides in a
+certain attitude of the national mind, and this kind of broadly held
+philosophy is not changed save by slow preaching or external shock. As
+long as modern England remains what we know it, and follows the lines of
+change which we see it following, the Book will necessarily decline more
+and more, and we must make up our minds to it.
+
+Of other evil tendencies of our time, one can say of some that they are
+obviously mending, of others that such and such an applicable remedy
+would mend them. Our public architecture is certainly getting better; so
+is our painting. Our gross and increasing contempt of self-government
+(to take quite another sphere) is curable by one or two simple reforms
+in procedure, registration, the expenses of election, and voting at the
+polls, which would restore the House of Commons to life, and give it
+power to express English will. But a regard for, a cultivation of, above
+all a sinking of wealth upon, English Letters is past praying for. We
+must wait until the tide changes; we can do nothing, and the waiting
+will be long.
+
+
+
+
+Jos Maria de Heredia
+
+
+The French have a phrase "la beaut du verbe" by which they would
+express a something in the sound and in the arrangement of words which
+supplements whatever mere thought those words were intended to express.
+It is evident that no definition of this beauty can be given, but it is
+also evident that without it letters would not exist. How it arises we
+cannot explain, yet the process is familiar to us in everything we do
+when we are attempting to fulfil an impulse towards whatever is good. An
+integration not of many small things but of an infinite series of
+infinitely small things build up the perfect gesture, the perfect line,
+the perfect intonation, and the perfect phrase. So indeed are all things
+significant built up: every tone of the voice, every arrangement of
+landscape or of notes in music which awake us and reveal the things
+beyond. But when one says that this is especially true of perfect
+expression one means that sometimes, rarely, the integration achieves a
+steadfast and sufficient formula. The mind is satisfied rather than
+replete. It asks no more; and if it desires to enjoy further the
+pleasure such completion has given it, it does not attempt to prolong or
+to develop the pleasure under which it has leapt; it is content to wait
+a while and to return, knowing well that it has here a treasure laid up
+for ever.
+
+All this may be expressed in two words: the Classical Spirit. That is
+Classic of which it is true that the enjoyment is sufficient when it is
+terminated and that in the enjoyment of it an entity is revealed.
+
+When men propose to bequeath to their fellows work of so supreme a kind
+it is to be noticed that they choose by instinct a certain material.
+
+It has been said that the material in which he works affects the
+achievement of the artist: it is truer to say that it helps him. A man
+designing a sculpture in marble knows very well what he is about to do.
+A man attempting the exact and restrained rendering of tragedy upon the
+stage does not choose the stage as one among many methods, he is drawn
+to it: he needs it; the audience, the light, the evening, the very slope
+of the boards, all minister to his efforts. And so a man determined to
+produce the greatest things in verse takes up by nature exact and
+thoughtful words and finds that their rhythm, their combination, and
+their sound turn under his hand to something greater than he himself at
+first intended; he becomes a creator, and his name is linked with the
+name of a masterpiece. The material in which he has worked is hard; the
+price he has paid is an exceeding effect; the reward he has earned is
+permanence.
+
+Jos de Heredia was an artist of this kind. The mass of the verse he
+produced, or rather published, was small. It might have been very large.
+It is not (as a foolish modern affectation will sometimes pretend)
+necessary to the endurance or even the excellence of work that it should
+be the product of exceptional moments; nor is it even true (as the wise
+Ancients believed) that great length of time must always mature it. But
+the small volume of Heredia's legacy to European letters does argue this
+at least in the poet, that he passionately loved perfection and that,
+finding himself able to achieve it (for perfection can be achieved) but
+now and then, he chose only to be remembered by the contentment which,
+now and then, his own genius had given him.
+
+He worked upon verse as men work upon the harder metals; all that he did
+was chiselled very finely, then sawn to an exact configuration and at
+last inlaid, for when he published his completed volume it is true to
+say that every piece fitted in with the sound of one before and of one
+after. He was careful in the heroic degree.
+
+His blood and descent are worthy of notice. He was a Spaniard,
+inheriting from the first Conquerors of the New World, nor was it
+remarkable to those who have received a proper enthusiasm for the
+classical spirit that the energy and even the violence natural to such a
+lineage should express themselves in the coldest and the most exalted
+form when, for the second time, a member of the family attempted verse.
+It is in the essence of that spirit that it alone can dare to be
+disciplined. It never doubts the motive power that will impel it; it is
+afraid, if anything, of an excess of power, and consciously imposes upon
+itself the limits which give it form.
+
+Heredia in his person expressed the activity which impelled him, for he
+was strong, brown, erect, a rapid walker, and a man whose voice was
+perpetually modulated in resonant and powerful tones. In his last years
+during his administration of the Library at the Arsenal this vitality of
+his took on an aspect of good nature very charming and very fruitful.
+His organization of the place was thorough, his knowledge of the readers
+intimate. He refused the manuscripts of none, he advised, laughed, and
+consoled. His criticism was sure. Several, notably Marcel Prevost, were
+launched by his authority. The same deep security of literary judgment
+which had permitted him to chastise and to perfect his impeccable
+sonnets into their final form permitted him also to hold up before his
+eyes, grasp, and judge the work of every other man.
+
+His frailty, as must always be the frailty of such men, was
+fastidiousness. The same sensitive consciousness which is said to have
+all but lost us the Aeneid, and which certainly all but lost us the
+Apologia, dominated his otherwise vigorous soul. It is more than forty
+years since his first verse, written just upon achieving his majority,
+appeared in the old _Revue de Paris_ and in the _Revue des Deux
+Mondes_. It was not till 1893 that he collected in one volume the
+scattered sonnets of his youth and middle age: the collection won him
+somewhat tardily his chair in the Academy. There is irony in the
+reminiscence that the man he defeated in that election was Zola.
+
+All the great men who saluted his advent are dead. Thophile Gautier,
+who first established his fame; Hugo, who addressed to him, perhaps,
+that vigorous appeal in which strict labour is deified, and the medal
+and the marble bust are shown to outlive the greatest glories, are
+sometimes quoted as the last among the great French writers.
+
+The immediate future will show that the stream of French excellence in
+this department, as in any other of human activity, is full, deep, and
+steady. The work of Heredia will help to prove it. He was a Spaniard,
+and a Colonial Spaniard. No other nation, perhaps, except the modern
+French, so inherit the romantic appetite of the later Roman Empire as to
+be able to mould and absorb every exterior element of excellence. It is
+remarkable that at the same moment Paris contemplated the funeral of the
+Italian de Brazza and the death of the Cuban Heredia. It is probable
+that those of us who are still young will live to see either name at the
+head of a new tradition. Heredia proved it possible not so much to
+imitate as to recapture the secure tradition of an older time. Perhaps
+the truest generalization that can be made with regard to the French
+people is to say that they especially in Western Europe (whose quality
+it is ever to transform itself but never to die) discover new springs of
+vitality after every period of defeat and aridity which they are
+compelled to cross. Heredia will prove in the near future a capital
+example of this power. He will increase silently in reputation until we,
+in old age, shall be surprised to find our sons and grandsons taking him
+for granted and speaking of him as one speaks of the Majores, of the
+permanent lights of poetry.
+
+
+
+
+Normandy and the Normans
+
+
+There is no understanding a country unless one gets to know the nature
+of its sub-units. In some way not easy to comprehend, impossible to
+define, and yet very manifest, each of the great national organisms of
+which Christendom is built up is itself a body of many regions whose
+differences and interaction endow it with a corporate life. No one could
+understand the past of England who did not grasp the local genius of the
+counties--Lancashire, cut off eastward by the Pennines, southward by the
+belt of marsh, with no natural entry save by the gate of Stockport;
+Sussex, which was and is a bishopric and a kingdom; Kent, Devon, the
+East Anglian meres. No one could (or does) understand modern England who
+does not see its sub-units to have become by now the great industrial
+towns, or who fails to seize the spirit of each group of such
+towns--with London lying isolated in the south, a negative to the rest.
+
+France is built of such sub-units: it is the peculiarity of French
+development that these are not small territories mainly of an average
+extent with government answerable in a long day's ride to one centre,
+such as most English counties are; nor city States such as form the
+piles upon which the structure of Italy has been raised; nor kingdoms
+such as coalesced to reform the Spanish people; but _provinces_,
+differing greatly in area, from little plains enclosed, like the
+Rousillon, to great stretches of landscape succeeding landscape like the
+Bourbonnais or the Prigord.
+
+The real continuity with an immemorial past which inspires all Gallic
+things is discoverable in this arrangement of Gaul. At the first glance
+one might imagine a French province to be a chance growth of the feudal
+ties and of the Middle Ages. A further effort of scholarship will prove
+it essentially Roman. An intimate acquaintance with its customs and with
+the site of its strongholds, coupled with a comparison of the most
+recent and most fruitful hypotheses of historians, will convince you
+that it is earlier than the Roman conquest; it is tribal, or the home of
+a group of cognate tribes, and its roots are lost in prehistory. So it
+is with Normandy.
+
+This vast territory--larger (I think) than all North England from the
+Humber to Cheviot and from Chester to the Solway--has never formed a
+nation. It is typical of the national idea in France that Normandy
+should have "held" of the political centre of the country, probably
+since the first Gallic confederations were formed, certainly since the
+organization of the Empire. It is equally typical of the local life of a
+French province that, thus dependent, Normandy should have strictly
+preserved its manner and its spirit, and should have readily made war
+upon the Crown and resisted, as it still resists and will perhaps for
+ever, the centralizing forces of the national temper.
+
+If you will travel day after day, and afoot, westward across the length
+of Normandy, you will have, if you are a good walker, a fortnight's
+task ahead of you; even if you are walking for a wager, a week's. It is
+the best way in which to possess a knowledge of that great land, and my
+advice would be to come in from the Picards over the bridge of Aumale
+across the little River Bresle (which is the boundary of Normandy to the
+east), and to go out by way of Pontorson, there crossing into Brittany
+over the little River Couesnon, which is the boundary of Normandy upon
+the west and beyond which lie the Bretons. In this way will you be best
+acquainted with the sharp differentiation of the French provinces
+passing into Normandy from Picardy, brick-built, horse-breeding, and
+slow, passing out of Normandy into the desolation and dreams of
+Brittany, and having known between the one and the other the chalk
+streams, the day-long beechen forests, the valley pastures, and the
+flamboyant churches of the Normans. You will do well to go by
+Neufchtel, where the cheese is made, and by Rouen, then by Lisieux to
+Falaise, where the Conqueror was born, and thence by Vive to Avranches
+and so to the Breton border, taking care to choose the forests between
+one town and another for your road, since these many and deep
+woods--much wider than any we know in England--are in great part the
+soul of the country.
+
+By this itinerary you will not have taken all you should into view; you
+will not have touched the coast nor seen how Normandy is based upon the
+sea, and you will not have known the Cotentin, which is a little State
+of its own and is the quadrilateral which Normandy thrusts forth into
+the Channel. If you have the leisure, therefore, return by the north.
+Pass through Coutances and Valognes to Cherbourg, thence through Caen
+and Bayeux to the crossing of Seine at Honfleur, and then on by the
+chalk uplands and edges of the cliffs till you reach Eu upon the Bresle
+again. In such a double journey the character of the whole will be
+revealed, and if you have studied the past of the place before starting
+you will find your journey full. Avranches, Coutances, Lisieux, Bayeux,
+Rouen are not chance sites. Their great churches mark the bishoprics;
+the bishoprics in turn were the administrative centres of Rome, and Rome
+chose them because they were the strongholds or the sacred cities each
+of a Gallic tribe. The wealth of the valleys permitted everywhere that
+astonishing richness of detail which marks the stonework in village
+after village; the connexion with England, especially the last connexion
+under Henry V, explains the innumerable churches, splendid even in
+hamlets as are our own. The Bresle and the Couesnon, those little
+streams, are boundaries not of these last few centuries, but of a time
+beyond view; the Romans found them so. Diocletian made them the limits
+of the "Second Lyonesse," "Lugdunensis Secunda," which was the last
+Roman name of the province.
+
+Here and there, near the west especially, you will discover names which
+recall the chief adventure of Normandy, the accident which baptized it
+with its Christian name, the landing of the Scandinavian pirates, the
+thousandth anniversary of which is now being celebrated. They came--we
+cannot tell in what numbers, some thousands--and harried the land. The
+old policy of the Empire, the policy already seven hundred years old,
+was had recourse to; the barbarians were granted settlement,
+inheritance, marriage, and partnership with the Lords of the Villae;
+their chief was permitted to hold local government, to tax and to levy
+men as the administrator of the whole province; but there followed
+something which wherever else the experiment had been tried had not
+followed: something of a new race arose. In Burgundy, in the northeast,
+in Visigothic Aquitaine the slight admixture of foreign blood had not
+changed the people, it was absorbed; the slight admixture of
+Scandinavian blood, coming so much later, in a time so degraded in
+government and therefore so open to natural influence, did change the
+Gallo-Romans of the Second Lyonesse. Few as the newcomers may have been
+in number, the new element transformed the mass, and when a century had
+permitted the union to work and settle, the great soldiers who founded
+us appeared. The Norman lords ordered, surveyed, codified, and ruled.
+They let Europe into England, they organized Sicily, they confirmed the
+New Papacy, they were the framework of the Crusades.
+
+The phenomenon was brief. It lasted little more than a hundred years,
+but it transformed Europe and launched the Middle Ages. When it had
+passed, Normandy stood confirmed for centuries (and is still confirmed)
+in a character of its own. No longer adventurous but mercantile, apt, of
+a resisting courage, sober in thought, leaning upon tradition, not
+imperially but domestically strong: the country of Corneille and of
+Malesherbes, a reflection of that spirit in letters; the conservative
+body of to-day--for in our generation that is the mark of Normandy--and,
+in arms, the recruitment to which Napoleon addressed his short and
+famous order that "the Normans that day should do their duty."
+
+
+
+
+The Old Things
+
+
+Those who travel about England for their pleasure, or, for that matter,
+about any part of Western Europe, rightly associate with such travel the
+pleasure of history; for history adds to a man, giving him, as it were,
+a great memory of things--like a human memory, but stretched over a far
+longer space than that of one human life. It makes him, I do not say
+wise and great, but certainly in communion with wisdom and greatness.
+
+It adds also to the soil he treads, for to this it adds meaning. How
+good it is when you come out of Tewkesbury by the Cheltenham road to
+look upon those fields to the left and know that they are not only
+pleasant meadows, but also the place in which a great battle of the
+mediaeval monarchy was decided, or as you stand by that ferry, which is
+not known enough to Englishmen (for it is one of the most beautiful
+things in England), and look back and see Tewkesbury tower, framed
+between tall trees over the level of the Severn, to see also the Abbey
+buildings in your eye of the mind--a great mass of similar stone with
+solid Norman walls, stretching on hugely to the right of the Minster.
+
+All this historical sense and the desire to marry History with Travel is
+very fruitful and nourishing, but there is another interest, allied to
+it, which is very nearly neglected, and which is yet in a way more
+fascinating and more full of meaning. This interest is the interest in
+such things as lie behind recorded history, and have survived into our
+own times. For underneath the general life of Europe, with its splendid
+epic of great Rome turned Christian, crusading, discovering, furnishing
+the springs of the Renaissance, and flowering at last materially into
+this stupendous knowledge of today, the knowledge of all the Arts, the
+power to construct and to do--underneath all that is the foundation on
+which Europe is built, the stem from which Europe springs; and that stem
+is far, far older than any recorded history, and far, far more vital
+than any of the phenomena which recorded history presents.
+
+Recorded history for this island and for Northern France and for the
+Rhine Valley is a matter of two thousand years; for the Western
+Mediterranean of three; but the things of which I speak are to be
+reckoned in tens of thousands of years. Their interest does not lie only
+nor even chiefly in things that have disappeared. It is indeed a great
+pleasure to rummage in the earth and find polished stones wrought by men
+who came so many centuries before us, and of whose blood we certainly
+are; and it is a great pleasure to find, or to guess that we find, under
+Canterbury the piles of a lake or marsh dwelling, proving that
+Canterbury has been there from all time; and that the apparently
+defenceless Valley City was once chosen as an impregnable site, when the
+water-meadows of the Stour were impassable as marsh, or with difficulty
+passable as a shallow lagoon. And it is delightful to stand on the
+earthwork a few miles west and to say to oneself (as one can say with a
+fair certitude), "Here was the British camp defending the south-east;
+here the tenth legion charged." All these are pleasant, but more
+pleasant, I think, to follow the thing where it actually survives.
+
+Consider the track-ways, for instance. How rich is England in these! No
+other part of Europe will afford the traveller so permanent and so
+fascinating a problem. Elsewhere Rome hardened and straightened every
+barbaric trail until the original line and level disappeared; but in
+this distant province of Britain she could only afford just so much
+energy as made them a foothold for her soldiery; and all over England
+you can go, if you choose, foot by foot, along the ancient roads that
+were made by the men of your blood before they had heard of brick or of
+stone or of iron or of written laws.
+
+I wonder that more men do not set out to follow, let us say, the
+Fosse-Way. There it runs right across Western England from the
+south-west to the north-east in a line direct yet sinuous, characters
+which are the very essence of a savage trail. It is a modern road for
+many miles, and you are tramping, let us say, along the Cotswold on a
+hard metalled modern English highway, with milestones and notices from
+the County Council telling you that the culverts will not bear a
+steam-engine, if so be you were to travel on one. Then suddenly this
+road comes up against a cross-road and apparently ceases, making what
+map draughtsmen call a "T"; but right in the same line you see a gate,
+and beyond it a farm lane, and so you follow. You come to a spinney
+where a ride has been cut through by the woodreeve, and it is all in the
+same line. The Fosse-Way turns into a little path, but you are still on
+it; it curves over a marshy brook-valley, picking out the firm land, and
+as you go you see old stones put there heaven knows how many (or how
+few) generations ago--or perhaps yesterday, for the tradition remains,
+and the country-folk strengthen their wet lands as they have
+strengthened them all these thousands of years; you climb up out of that
+depression, you get you over a stile, and there you are again upon a
+lane. You follow that lane, and once more it stops dead. This time there
+is a field before you. No right of way, no trace of a path, nothing but
+grass rounded into those parallel ridges which mark the modern decay of
+the corn lands and pasture--alas!--taking the place of ploughing. Now
+your pleasure comes in casting about for the trail; you look back along
+the line of the Way; you look forward in the same line till you find
+some indication, a boundary between two parishes, perhaps upon your map,
+or two or three quarries set together, or some other sign, and very soon
+you have picked up the line again.
+
+So you go on mile after mile, and as you tread that line you have in the
+horizons that you see, in the very nature and feel of the soil beneath
+your feet, in the skies of England above you, the ancient purpose and
+soul of this Kingdom. Up this same line went the Clans marching when
+they were called Northward to the host; and up this went slow, creaking
+wagons with the lead of the Mendips or the tin of Cornwall or the gold
+of Wales.
+
+And it is still there; it is still used from place to place as a high
+road, it still lives in modern England. There are some of its peers, as
+for instance the Ermine Street, far more continuous, and affording
+problems more rarely; others like the ridgeway of the Berkshire Downs,
+which Rome hardly touched, and of which the last two thousand years has,
+therefore, made hardly anything; you may spend a delightful day piecing
+out exactly where it crossed the Thames, making your guess at it, and
+wondering as you sit there by Streatley Vicarage whether those islands
+did not form a natural weir below which lay the ford.
+
+The roads are the most obvious things. There are many more; for
+instance, thatch. The same laying of the straw in the same manner, with
+the same art, has continued, we may be certain, from a time long before
+the beginning of history. See how in the Fen Land they thatch with
+reeds, and how upon the Chalk Downs with straw from the Lowlands. I
+remember once being told of a record in a manor, which held of the
+Church and which lay upon the southern slope of the Downs, that so much
+was entered for "straw from the Lowlands": then, years afterwards, when
+I had to thatch a Bethlehem in an orchard underneath tall elms--a
+pleasant place to write in, with the noise of bees in the air--the man
+who came to thatch said to me: "We must have straw from the Lowlands;
+this upland straw is no good for thatching." Immediately when I heard
+him say this there was added to me ten thousand years. And I know
+another place in England, far distant from this, where a man said to me
+that if I wished to cross in a winter mist, as I had determined to do,
+Cross-Fell, that great summit of the Pennines, I must watch the drift of
+the snow, for there was no other guide to one's direction in such
+weather. And I remember another man in a little boat in the North Sea,
+as we came towards the Foreland, talking to me of the two tides, and
+telling me how if one caught the tide all the way up to Long Nose and
+then went round it on the end of the flood, one caught a new tide up
+London river, and so made two tides in one day. He spoke with the same
+pleasure that silly men show when they talk about an accumulation of
+money. He felt wealthy and proud from the knowledge, for by this
+knowledge he had two tides in one day. Now knowledge of this sort is
+older than ten thousand years; and so is the knowledge of how birds fly,
+and of how they call, and of how the weather changes with the moon.
+
+Very many things a man might add to the list that I am making. Dew-pans
+are older than the language or the religion; and the finding of water
+with a stick; and the catching of that smooth animal, the mole; and the
+building of flints into mortar, which if one does it in the old way (as
+you may see at Pevensey) the work lasts for ever, but if you do it in
+any new way it does not last ten years; then there is the knowledge of
+planting during the crescent part of the month, but not before the new
+moon shows; and there is the influence of the moon on cider, and to a
+less extent upon the brewing of ale; and talking of ale, the knowledge
+of how ale should be drawn from the brewing just when a man can see his
+face without mist upon the surface of the hot brew. And there is the
+knowledge of how to bank rivers, which is called "throwing the rives" in
+the South, but in the Fen Land by some other name; and how to bank them
+so that they do not silt, but scour themselves. There are these things
+and a thousand others. All are immemorial.
+
+
+
+
+The Battle of Hastings. Related in the Manner of Oxford and Dedicated
+to that University
+
+
+So careless were the French commanders (or more properly the French
+commander, for the rest were cowed by the bullying swagger of William)
+that the night, which should have been devoted to some sort of
+reconnaissance, if not of a preparation of the ground, was devoted to
+nothing more practical than the religious exercises peculiar to
+foreigners.
+
+Their army, as we have seen, was not drawn from any one land, but it was
+in the majority composed of Normans and Bretons; we can therefore
+understand the extravagant superstition which must bear the blame for
+what followed.
+
+Meanwhile, upon the heights above, the English host calmly prepared for
+battle. Fires were lit each in its appointed place, and at these meat
+was cooked under the stern but kindly eyes of the sergeant-majors. These
+also distributed at an appointed price liquor, of which the British
+soldier is never willing to be deprived, and as the hours advanced
+towards morning, the songs in which our adventurous race has ever
+delighted rose from the heights above the Brede.
+
+The morning was misty, as is often the case over damp and marshy lands
+in the month of October, but the inclemency of the weather, or, to speak
+more accurately, the superfluous moisture precipitated from an already
+saturated atmosphere, was of no effect upon those silent and tenacious
+troops of Harold. It was far other with the so-called "Norman" host, who
+were full of forebodings--only too amply to be justified--of the fate
+that lay before them upon the morrow.
+
+It is curious to contrast the quiet skill and sagacity which marked the
+disposition of Harold with the almost childish simplicity of William's
+plan--if plan it may be called.
+
+The Saxon hosts were drawn along the ridge in a position chosen with
+masterly skill. It afforded (as may still be seen) no dead ground for an
+attacking force and little cover. [Footnote: The Rhododendrons on the
+great lawn are modern.] Their left was arranged _en potence_, their
+right was drawn up in echelon. The centre followed the plan usual at
+that time, reposing upon the wings to its right and left and extended.
+The reserves were, of course, posted behind. Cavalry, as at Omdurman,
+played but a slight role in this typically national action and such
+mounted troops as were present seem to have been intermixed with the
+line in the fashion later known, in the jargon of the service, as "The
+Beggar's Quadrille." The Brigade of Guards is not mentioned in any
+record that I can discover, but was probably set by reversed companies
+in a square perpendicular to the main ravine and a little in front of
+the salient angle which appears upon the map at the point marked A.
+
+The terrain can be clearly determined at the present day in spite of the
+changes that have taken place in the intervening years. It is a fairly
+steep slope of hemispherical contour interspersed with low bushes; the
+summit (upon which now stands our lovely English village of Battle and
+the residence of one of those cultured and leisured men who form the
+framework of our commonwealth) was then but a wild heath.
+
+Harold himself could be distinguished in the centre of the line by his
+handsome features, restrained deportment, and unfailing gentlemanly good
+sense as he spoke to staff officer, orderly, and even groom with
+indefatigable skill.
+
+In spite of the determination observable from a great distance upon the
+faces of the tall Saxon line, William with characteristic lack of
+balance opened the action by ordering a charge uphill with cavalry
+alone; it was a piece of tactics absurdly incongruous and one even he
+would never have attempted had he understood the foe that was before
+him, or the fate to which that foe had doomed him.
+
+The lesson dealt him was as immediate as it was severe. The foreigners
+were thrust headlong down the hill, and a private letter tells us how
+the Men of Kent in particular buffeted the Normans about "as though they
+were boys." But even in the heat of this initial success Harold had the
+self-command to order the retirement upon the main position: and with
+troops such as his the order was equivalent to its execution.
+
+This rude blow would have sufficed for any commander less vain than
+William, but he seems to have lost all judgment in a fit of personal
+vanity and to have ordered a second charge which could not but prove as
+futile as the first, delivered as it was up a perfect glacis
+strengthened by epaulements, reverses and countersunk galvon work and
+one whose natural strength was heightened by the stockade which the
+indomitable energy of Harold's troops had perfected in the early hours
+of the morning. Many of the stakes in this, the reader may note with
+pardonable pride, were of English oak--sharpened at the tip.
+
+William's plan (if plan it may be called) was, as we have seen,
+necessarily futile and was foredoomed to failure. But Harold had no
+intention to let the action bear no more fruit than a tactical victory
+upon this particular field. The brain that had designed the exact
+synchrony of Stamford Bridge and the famous march southward from the
+Humber was of that sort which is only found once in many centuries of
+the history of war and which is (it may be said without boasting)
+peculiar to this island.
+
+Another general would have awaited the second charge with its useless
+butchery and still more useless contest for the barren name of victory.
+Not so Harold. Those commanding, cold grey eyes of his swept the line in
+a comprehensive glance, and though no written record of the detail
+remains, he must know little of the character of the man who does not
+understand that from Harold certainly proceeded the order for what
+followed.
+
+The forces at the centre, which he commanded in person, deftly withdrew
+before the futile gallop of William's cavalry, leaving, with that
+coolness which has ever distinguished our troops, the laggards to their
+fate. At the same moment, and with marvellous precision, the left and
+right were withdrawn from the plateau rapidly and as by magic, and the
+old-fashioned tactics of mere impact (which William of Normandy seems
+seriously to have relied on!) were spent and wasted upon the now
+evacuated summit of the hill.
+
+What followed is famous in history.
+
+The cohesion of the Saxon force and the exactitude and coolness with
+which its great operation was performed is of good augury for the future
+of our country. Though it was now thick night, by no set road and with
+no cumbersome machinery of train and rear-guard, the whole of the vast
+assembly masked itself behind the woodlands of the Weald.
+
+The Norman horsemen, bewildered and fatigued, gazed on the many that had
+fallen in defence of the masking position and wondered whether such
+novel happenings were victory or no, but the army whose concentration
+upon the Thames it was William's whole object to prevent, was already
+miles northward, each unit proceeding by exactly co-ordinated routes
+towards London.
+
+There is perhaps no more difficult task set before soldiers than the
+quiet execution of such a manoeuvre after the heat of a heavy action,
+and none have performed it more magnificently than the veteran troop of
+Harold.
+
+When (luckily) all the orders had been finally distributed a great
+tragedy marred the completeness of the day.
+
+Just before the execution of this masterpiece of strategy, and as the
+autumn sun was sinking, the inevitable price which war demands of all
+its darlings was paid.
+
+Harold himself, the artist of the great victory, fell. But we have no
+reason to believe that his loss retarded the retrograding movement in
+any degree. Men who create as Harold created have not their creations
+spoilt by death.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+The shameful history of the close of the campaign is familiar to every
+schoolboy, and the military historian must be pardoned if he deals with
+a purely civilian blunder in a few brief words.
+
+Parliament interfered--as it always does--with what should have been a
+matter for soldiers alone. Intrigues, bribery, or worse (with which the
+military historian has no concern) ruined what had been, in the field,
+one of the principal achievements of the Saxon arms. And William, who
+could not count to hold his own against regular forces and who was
+astonished to find himself free to retreat precipitately on Dover, was
+still more astonished to find himself accepted a few weeks later after
+an aimless march to the west and north by the politicians--or worse--at
+Berkhampstead. He and England were equally astounded to find that a
+broken and defeated invader could actually be accepted by the intriguers
+at Westminster and crowned King of England as the price of a secret
+bargain.
+
+Such was the fruit of as great and successful an effort as ever Saxon
+soldier made: the Battle of Senlac: for such--as I am now free to
+reveal--was the true name of the field of action.
+
+The ineptitude or avarice of politicians had undone the work of
+soldiers, and it is no wonder that the last of Harold's veterans, who
+retired in disgust to impregnable fortresses in Ely, Arthur's Seat, and
+Pudsey, are recorded to have gnashed their teeth and shed tears of
+indignation at the dispatches from the metropolis. At Crcy they were to
+be avenged.
+
+
+
+
+The Roman Roads in Picardy
+
+
+If a man were asked where he would find upon the map the sharpest
+impress of Rome and of the memories of Rome, and where he would most
+easily discover in a few days on foot the foundations upon which our
+civilization still rests, he might, in proportion to his knowledge of
+history and of Europe, be puzzled to reply. He might say that a week
+along the wall from Tyne to Solway would be the answer; or a week in the
+great Roman cities of Provence with their triumphal arches and their
+vast arenas and their Roman stone cropping out everywhere: in old quays,
+in ruined bridges, in the very pavement of the streets they use to-day,
+and in the columns of their living churches.
+
+Now I was surprised to find myself after many years of dabbling in such
+things, furnishing myself the answer in quite a different place. It was
+in Picardy during the late manoeuvres of the French Army that, in the
+intervals of watching those great buzzing flies, the aeroplanes, and in
+the intervals of long tramps after the regiments or of watching the
+massed guns, the necessity for perpetually consulting the map brought
+home to me for the first time this truth--that Picardy is the
+province--or to be more accurate, Picardy with its marches in the le de
+France, the edge of Normandy and the edge of Flanders--which retains
+to-day the most vivid impress of Rome. For though the great buildings
+are lacking, and the Roman work, which must here have been mainly of
+brick, has crumbled, and though I can remember nothing upstanding and
+patently of the Empire between the gate of Rheims and the frontier of
+Artois, yet one feature--the Roman road--is here so evident, so
+multiple, and so enduring that it makes up for all the rest.
+
+One discovers the old roads upon the map, one after the other, with a
+sort of surprise. The scheme develops before one as one looks, and
+always when one thinks one has completed the web another and yet another
+straight arrow of a line reveals itself across the page.
+
+The map is a sort of palimpsest. A mass of fine modern roads, a whole
+red blur of lanes and local ways, the big, rare black lines of the
+railway--these are the recent writing, as it were; but underneath the
+whole, more and more apparent and in greater and greater numbers as one
+learns to discover them, are the strict, taut lines which Rome stretched
+over all those plains.
+
+There is something most fascinating in noting them, and discovering them
+one after the other.
+
+For they need discovering. No one of them is still in complete use. The
+greater part must be pieced together from lengths of lanes which turn
+into broad roads, and then suddenly sink again into footpaths, rights of
+way, or green forest rides.
+
+Often, as with our rarer Roman roads in England, all trace of the thing
+disappears under the plough or in the soft crossings of the river
+valleys; one marks them by the straightness of their alignment, by the
+place names which lie upon them (the repeated name Estree, for instance,
+which is like the place name "street" upon the Roman roads of England);
+by the recovery of them after a gap; by the discoveries which local
+archaeology has made.
+
+Different men have different pastimes, and I dare say that most of those
+who read this will wonder that such a search should be a pastime for any
+man, but I confess it is a pastime for me. To discover these things, to
+recreate them, to dig out on foot the base upon which two thousand years
+of history repose, is the most fascinating kind of travel.
+
+And then, the number of them! You may take an oblong of country with
+Maubeuge at one corner, Pontoise at another, Yvetot and some frontier
+town such as Fumes for the other two corners, and in that stretch of
+country a hundred and fifty miles by perhaps two hundred, you can build
+up a scheme of Roman ways almost as complete as the scheme of the great
+roads to-day.
+
+That one which most immediately strikes the eye is the great line which
+darts upon Rouen from Paris.
+
+Twice broken at the crossing of the river valleys, and lost altogether
+in the last twelve miles before the capital of Normandy, it still stands
+on the modern map a great modern road with every aspect of purpose and
+of intention in its going.
+
+From Amiens again they radiate out, these roads, some, like the way to
+Cambray, in use every mile; some, like the old marching road to the sea,
+to the Portus Itius, to Boulogne, a mere lane often wholly lost and
+never used as a great modern road. This was the way along which the
+French feudal cavalry trailed to the disaster of Crcy, and just beyond
+Crcy it goes and loses itself in that exasperating but fascinating
+manner which is the whole charm of Roman roads wherever the hunter finds
+them. You may lay a ruler along this old forgotten track, all the way
+past Domqueur, Novelle (which is called Novelle-en-Chausse, that is
+Novelle on the paved road), on past Estre (where from the height you
+overlook the battlefield of Crcy), and that ruler so lying on your map
+points right at Boulogne Harbour, thirty odd miles away--and in all
+those thirty odd remaining miles I could not find another yard of it.
+But what an interest! What a hobby to develop! There is nothing like it
+in all the kinds of hunting that have ever been invented for filling up
+the whole of the mind. True, you will get no sauce of danger, but, on
+the other hand, you will hunt for weeks and weeks, and you will come
+back year after year and go on with your hunting, and sometimes you
+actually find--which is more than can be said for hunting some animals
+in the Weald.
+
+How was it lost, this great main road of Europe, this marching road of
+the legions, linking up Gaul and Britain, the way that Hadrian went, and
+the way down which the usurper Constantine III must have come during
+that short adventure of his which lends such a romance to the end of the
+Empire? One cannot conceive why it should have disappeared. It is a
+sunken way down the hillside across the light railway which serves
+Crcy, it gets vaguer and vaguer, for all the world like those ridges
+upon the chalk that mark the Roman roads in England, and then it is
+gone. It leaves you pointing, I say, at that distant harbour, thirty odd
+miles off, but over all those miles it has vanished. The ghost of the
+legends cannot march along it any more. In one place you find a few
+yards of it about three miles south and east of Montreuil. It may be
+that the little lane leading into Estre shows where it crossed the
+valley of the Cauche, but it is all guesswork, and therefore very proper
+to the huntsman.
+
+Then there is that unbroken line by which St. Martin came, I think, when
+he rode into Amiens, and at the gate of the town cut his cloak in two to
+cover the beggar. It drives across country for Roye and on to Noyon, the
+old centre of the Kings. It is a great modern road all the way, and it
+stretches before you mile after mile after mile, until suddenly, without
+explanation and for no reason, it ends sharply, like the life of a man.
+It ends on the slopes of the hill called Choisy, at the edge of the wood
+which is there. And seek as you will, you will never find it again.
+
+From that road also, near Amiens, branches out another, whose object was
+St. Quentin, first as a great high road, lost in the valley of the
+Somme, a lesser road again, still in one strict alignment, it reaches on
+to within a mile of Vermand, and there it stops dead. I do not think
+that between Vermand and St. Quentin you will find it. Go out
+north-westward from Vermand and walk perhaps five miles, or seven: there
+is no trace of a road, only the rare country lanes winding in and out,
+and the open plough of the rolling land. But continue by your compass so
+and you will come (suddenly again and with no apparent reason for its
+abrupt origin) upon the dead straight line that ran from the capital of
+the Nervii, three days' march and more, and pointing all the time
+straight at Vermand.
+
+And so it is throughout the province and its neighbourhood. Here and
+there, as at Bavai, a great capital has decayed. Here and there (but
+more rarely), a town wholly new has sprung up since the Romans, but the
+plan of the country is the same as that which they laid down, and the
+roads as you discover them, mark it out and establish it. The armies
+that you see marching to-day in their manoeuvres follow for half a
+morning the line which was taken by the Legions.
+
+
+
+
+The Reward of Letters
+
+
+It has often been remarked that while all countries in the world possess
+some sort of literature, as Iceland her Sagas, England her daily papers,
+France her prose writers and dramatists, and even Prussia her railway
+guides, one nation and one alone, the Empire of Monomotopa, is utterly
+innocent of this embellishment or frill.
+
+No traveller records the existence of any Monomotopan quill-driver; no
+modern visitor to that delightful island has come across a
+_littrateur_ whether in the worse or in the best hotels; and such
+reading as the inhabitants enjoy is entirely confined to works imported
+by large steamers from the neighbouring Antarctic Continent.
+
+The causes of this singular and happy state of affairs were unknown
+(since the common histories did not mention them) until the recent
+discovery by Mr. Paley, the chief authority upon Monomotopan hieratic
+script, of a very ancient inscription which clearly sets forth the whole
+business.
+
+It seems that an Emperor of Monomotopa, whose date can be accurately
+fixed by internal evidence to lie after the universal deluge and before
+the building of the Pyramid of Cheops, was, upon his accession to the
+throne, particularly concerned with the just repartition of taxes among
+his beloved subjects.
+
+It would seem (if we are to trust the inscription) that in a past still
+more remote the taxes were so light that even the richest men would meet
+them promptly and without complaining, but this was at a period when the
+enemies of Monomotopa were at once distant and actively engaged in
+quarrelling among themselves. With sickening treachery these distant
+rival nations had determined to produce wealth and to live in amity, so
+that it was incumbent upon the Monomotopans not only to build ships, but
+actually to provide an army, and at last (what broke the camel's back)
+to establish fortifications of a very useless but expensive sort upon a
+dozen points of their Imperial coast.
+
+Under the increasing strain the old fiscal system broke down. The poor
+were clearly embarrassed, as might be seen in their emaciated visages
+and from the terrible condition of their boots. The rich had reached the
+point after which it was inconvenient to them to pay any more. The
+middle classes were spending the greater part of their time in devising
+methods by which the exorbitant and intempestive demands of the
+collectors could be either evaded or, more rarely, complied with. In a
+word, a new and juster system of taxation was an imperative need, and
+the Emperor, who had just ascended the throne at the age of eighteen,
+and whom a sort of greenness had preserved from the iniquities of this
+world, was determined to effect the great reform.
+
+With the advice of his Ministers (all of whom had had considerable
+experience in the handling of money), the Emperor at last determined
+that each man and woman should pay to the State one-tenth and no more of
+the wealth which he or she produced; those who produced nothing it was
+but common justice and reason to exempt, and the effect of this tardy
+act of justice upon the very rich was observed in the sudden increase of
+the death-rate from all those diseases that are the peculiar product of
+luxury and evil living. Paupers also, the unemployed, cripples,
+imbeciles, deaf mutes, and the clergy escaped under this beneficent and
+equable statute, and we may sum up the whole policy by saying that never
+was a law acclaimed with so much happy bewilderment nor subject to less
+expressed criticism than this.
+
+It was, moreover, easy to estimate in this new fashion the total revenue
+of the State, since its produce had been accurately set down by
+statisticians of the utmost eminence, and one of these diverse documents
+had been taken for the basis of the new fiscal regime.
+
+In practice also the collection was easy. Overseers would attend the
+harvest with large carts, prong the tenth turnip, hoick up the tenth
+sheaf of wheat, bucket out the tenth gallon of ale, and so forth. In the
+markets every tenth animal was removed by Imperial officers, every tenth
+newspaper was impounded as it left the press, and every tenth drink
+about to be consumed in the hostelries of the Empire was, after a
+simulacrum of proffering it, suddenly removed by the waiter and poured
+into a receptacle, the keys of which were very jealously guarded.
+
+It was the same with the liberal professions: of the fee received by a
+barrister in the Criminal Courts a tenth was regularly demanded at the
+door when the verdict had been given and the prisoner whom he had
+defended passed out to execution. The tenth knock-out in the prize ring
+received by the professional pugilist was followed by the immediate
+sequestration of his fee for that particular encounter, and the tenth
+aria vibrating from the lips of a prima donna was either compounded for
+at a certain rate or taken in kind by the official who attended at every
+performance of grand opera.
+
+One form of wealth alone puzzled the beneficent monarch and his
+Napoleonic advisers, and this was the production (for it then existed)
+of literary matter.
+
+At first this seemed as simple to tax as any one of the other numerous
+activities upon which the Emperor's loyal and loving subjects were
+engaged. A brief examination of the customs of the trade, conducted by
+an army of officials who penetrated into the very dens and attics in
+which Letters are evolved, reported that the method of payment was by
+the measurement of a number of words.
+
+"It is, your Majesty," wrote the permanent official of the department in
+his minute, "the practice of those who charitably employ this sort of
+person to pay them in classes by the thousand words; thus one man gets
+one sequin a thousand, another two byzants, a third as much as a ducat,
+while some who have singularly attracted the notice of the public can
+command ten, twenty, nay forty scutcheons, and in some very exceptional
+cases a thousand words command one of those beautiful pieces of stiff
+paper which your Majesty in his bountiful provision tenders to his
+dutiful subjects for acceptance as metal under diverse penalties. The
+just taxation of these fellows can therefore be easily achieved if your
+Majesty, in the exercise of his almost superhuman wisdom, will but add a
+schedule to the Finance Act in which there shall be set down fifteen or
+twenty classes of writers, with their price per thousand words, and a
+compulsory registration of each class, enforced by the rude hand of the
+police."
+
+The Emperor of Monomotopa immediately nominated a Royal Commission
+(unpaid), among whose sons, nephews, and private friends the salaried
+posts connected with the work were distributed. This Commission reported
+by a majority of one ere two years had elapsed. The schedule was
+designed, and such _littrateurs_ as had not in the interval fled
+the country were registered, while a further enactment strictly
+forbidding their employers to make payment upon any other system
+completed the scheme.
+
+But, alas! so full of low cunning and dirty dodges is this kind of man
+(I mean what we call authors) that very soon after the promulgation of
+the new law a marked deterioration in the quality of Monomotopan letters
+was apparent upon every side!
+
+The citizen opening his morning paper would be astonished to find the
+leading article consist of nothing more original than a portion of the
+sacred Scriptures. A novel bought to ease the tedium of a journey would
+consist of long catalogues for the most part, and when it came to
+descriptions of scenery would fall into the most minute and detailed
+category of every conceivable feature of the landscape. Some even took
+advantage of the new regulation so far as to repeat one single word an
+interminable number of times, while it was remarked with shame by the
+Ministers of Religion that the morals of their literary friends
+permitted them only to use words of one syllable, and those of the
+shortest kind. And this they said was the only true and original
+Monomotopan dialect.
+
+Such was the public inconvenience that next year a sharper and much more
+drastic law was passed, by which it was laid down that every literary
+composition should make sense within the meaning of the Act, and should
+be original so far as the reading of the judge appointed for the trial
+of the case extended. But though after the first few executions this law
+was generally observed, the nasty fellows affected by it managed to
+evade it in spirit, for by the use of obscure terms, of words drawn from
+dead languages, and of bold metaphor transferred from one art to
+another, they would deliberately invite prosecution, and then in the
+witness-box make fools of those plain men, the judge and jury, by
+showing that this apparently meaningless claptrap could, with sufficient
+ingenuity, be made to yield some sort of sense, and during this period
+no art critic was put to death.
+
+Driven to desperation, the Emperor changed the whole basis of the
+Remuneration of Literary Labour, and ordered that it should be by the
+length of the prose or poetry measured in inches.
+
+This reform, however, did but add to the confusion, for while the men of
+the pen wrote their works entirely in short dialogue, asterisks, and
+blanks, the publishers, who were now thoroughly organized, printed the
+same in smaller and smaller type, in order to avoid the consequences of
+the law.
+
+At this last piece of insolence the Emperor's mind was quickly decided.
+Arresting one night not only all those who had ever written, but all
+those who had even boasted of letters, or who were so much as suspected
+by their relatives of secretly indulging in them, he turned the whole
+two million into a large but enclosed area, and (desiring to kill two
+birds with one stone) offered the ensuing spectacle as an amusement to
+the more sober and respectable sections of the community.
+
+It is well known that the profession of letters breeds in its followers
+an undying hatred of each against his fellows. The public were therefore
+entertained for a whole day with the pleasing sight of a violent but
+quite disordered battle, in which each of the wretched prisoners seemed
+animated by no desire but the destruction of as many as possible of his
+hated rivals, until at last every soul of these detestable creatures had
+left its puny body and the State was rid of all.
+
+A law which carried to the universities the rule of the primary
+schools--to wit, that men should be taught to read but not to
+write--completed the good work. And there was peace.
+
+
+
+
+The Eye-Openers
+
+
+Without any doubt whatsoever, the one characteristic of the towns is
+the lack of reality in the impressions of the many: now we live in
+towns: and posterity will be astounded at us! It isn't only that we get
+our impressions for the most part as imaginary pictures called up by
+printer's ink--that would be bad enough; but by some curious perversion
+of the modern mind, printer's ink ends by actually preventing one from
+seeing things that are there; and sometimes, when one says to another
+who has not travelled, "Travel!" one wonders whether, after all, if he
+does travel, he will see the things before his eyes? If he does, he will
+find a new world; and there is more to be discovered in this fashion
+to-day than ever there was.
+
+I have sometimes wished that every Anglo-Saxon who from these shores has
+sailed and seen for the first time the other Anglo-Saxons in New York or
+Melbourne, would write in quite a short letter what he really felt.
+Ninety-nine times out of a hundred men only write what they have read
+before they started, just as Rousseau in an eighteenth-century village
+believed that every English yokel could vote and that his vote conveyed
+a high initiative, making and unmaking the policy of the State; or just
+as people, hearing that the birth-rate of France is low, travel in that
+country and say they can see no children--though they would hardly say
+it about Sussex or Cumberland where the birth-rate is lower still.
+
+What travel does in the way of pleasure (the providing of new and fresh
+sensations, and the expansion of experience), that it ought to do in the
+way of knowledge. It ought to and it does, with the wise, provide a
+complete course of unlearning the wretched tags with which the sham
+culture of our great towns has filled us. For instance, of Barbary--the
+lions do not live in deserts; they live in woods. The peasants of
+Barbary are not Semitic in appearance or in character; Barbary is full
+to the eye, not of Arab and Oriental buildings--they are not
+striking--but of great Roman monuments: they are altogether the most
+important things in the place. Barbary is not hot, as a whole: most of
+Barbary is extremely cold between November and March. The inhabitants of
+Barbary do not like a wild life, they are extremely fond of what
+civilization can give them, such as _crme de menthe_, rifles, good
+waterworks, maps, and railways: only they would like to have these
+things without the bother of strict laws and of the police, and so
+forth. Travel in Barbary with seeing eyes and you find out all this new
+truth.
+
+Now it took the French forty years and more before each of these plain
+facts (and I have only cited half a dozen out of as many hundred) got
+into their letters and their print: they have not yet got into the
+letters and the print of other nations. But an honest man travelling in
+Barbary on his own account would pick up every one of these truths in
+two or three days, except the one about the lions; to pick up that truth
+you must go to the very edge of the country, for the lion is a shy beast
+and withdraws from men.
+
+The wise man who really wants to see things as they are and to
+understand them, does not say: "Here I am on the burning soil of
+Africa." He says: "Here I am stuck in a snowdrift and the train twelve
+hours late"--as it was (with me in it) near Stif in January, 1905. He
+does not say as he looks on the peasant at his plough outside Batna:
+"Observe yon Semite!" He says: "That man's face is exactly like the face
+of a dark Sussex peasant, only a little leaner." He does not say: "See
+those wild sons of the desert! How they must hate the new artificial
+world around them!" Contrariwise, he says: "See those four Mohammedans
+playing cards with a French pack of cards and drinking liqueurs in the
+caf! See, they have ordered more liqueurs!" He does not say: "How
+strange and terrible a thing the railway must be to them!" He says: "I
+wish I was rich enough to travel first, for the natives pouring in and
+out of this third-class carriage, jabbering like monkeys, and treading
+on my feet, disturb my tranquillity. Some hundreds must have got in and
+out during the last fifty miles!"
+
+In other words, the wise man has permitted eye-openers to rain upon him
+their full, beneficent, and sacramental influence. And if a man in
+travelling will always maintain his mind ready for what he really sees
+and hears, he will become a whole nest of Columbuses discovering a
+perfectly interminable series of new worlds.
+
+A man can only talk of what he himself knows. Let me give further
+examples. I had always heard until I visited the Pyrenees how French
+civilization (especially in the matter of roads, motors, and things like
+that) went up to the "Spanish" frontier and then stopped dead. It
+doesn't. The change is at the Aragonese frontier. On the Basque third of
+the frontier the people are just as active and fond of wealth, and of
+scraping of stone and of cleanliness, and of drawing straight lines, to
+the north as to the south of it. They are all one people, as
+industrious, as thrifty, and as prosperous as the Scots. So are the
+Catalans one people, and you get much the same sort of advantages and
+disadvantages (apart from the effect of government) with the Catalans to
+the north as with the Catalans to the south of the border.
+
+So with religion. I had thought to find the Spanish churches crowded. I
+found just the contrary. It was the French churches that were crowded,
+not the Spanish; and the difference between the truth--what one really
+sees and hears--and the printed legend happens to be very subtly
+illustrated in this case of religion. The French have inherited (and are
+by this time used to, and have, perhaps grown fond of) a big religious
+debate. Those who side with the national religion and tradition
+emphasize their opinion in every possible way--so do their opponents.
+You pick up two newspapers from Toulouse, for instance, and it is quite
+on the cards that the leading article of each will be a disquisition
+upon the philosophy of religion, the one, the "Depche" of Toulouse,
+militantly, and often solently atheist; the other as militantly
+Catholic.
+
+You don't get that in Pamplona, and you don't get it in Saragossa. What
+you get there is a profound dislike of being interfered with, ancient
+and lazy customs, wealth retained by the chapters, the monasteries, and
+the colleges, and with all this a curious, all-pervading indifference.
+
+One might end this little train of thought by considering a converse
+test of what the eye-opener is in travel; and that test is to talk to
+foreigners when they first come to England and see how they tend to
+discover in England what they have read of at home instead of what they
+really see. There have been very few fogs in London of late, but your
+foreigner nearly always finds London foggy. Kent does not show along its
+main railway line the evidence of agricultural depression: it is like a
+garden. Yet, in a very careful and thorough French book just published
+by a French traveller, his bird's-eye view of the country as he went
+through Kent just after landing would make you think the place a desert;
+he seems to have thought the hedges a sign of agricultural decay. The
+same foreigner will discover a plebeian character in the Commons and an
+aristocratic one in the House of Lords, though he shall have heard but
+four speeches in each, and though every one of the eight speeches shall
+have been delivered by members of one family group closely intermarried,
+wealthy, titled, and perhaps (who knows?) of some lineage as well.
+
+The moral is that one should tell the truth to oneself, and look out for
+it outside one. It is quite as novel and as entertaining as the
+discovery of the North Pole--or, in case that has come off (as some
+believe), the discovery of the South Pole.
+
+
+
+
+The Public
+
+
+I notice a very curious thing in the actions particularly of business
+men to-day, and of other men also, which is the projection outward from
+their own inward minds of something which is called "The Public"--and
+which is not there.
+
+I do not mean that a business man is wrong when he says that "the public
+will demand" such and such an article, and on producing the article
+finds it sells widely; he is obviously and demonstrably right in his use
+of the word "public" in such a connexion. Nor is a man wrong or subject
+to illusion when he says, "The public have taken to cinematograph
+shows," or "The public were greatly moved when the Hull fishermen were
+shot at by the Russian fleet in the North Sea." What I mean is "The
+Public" as an excuse or scapegoat; the Public as a menace; the Public as
+a butt. That Public simply does not exist.
+
+For instance, the publisher will say, as though he were talking of some
+monster, "The Public will not buy Jinks's work. It is first-class work,
+so it is too good for the Public." He is quite right in his statement of
+fact. Of the very small proportion of our people who read only a
+fraction buy books, and of the fraction that buy books very few indeed
+buy Jinks's. Jinks has a very pleasant up-and-down style. He loves to
+use funny words dragged from the tomb, and he has delicate little
+emotions. Yet hardly anybody will buy him--so the publisher is quite
+right in one sense when he says, "The Public" won't buy Jinks. But where
+he is quite wrong and suffering from a gross illusion is in the motive
+and the manner of his saying it. He talks of "The Public" as something
+gravely to blame and yet irredeemably stupid. He talks of it as
+something quite external to himself, almost as something which he has
+never personally come across. He talks of it as though it were a Mammoth
+or an Eskimo. Now, if that publisher would wander for a moment into the
+world of realities he would perceive his illusion. Modern men do not
+like realities, and do not usually know the way to come in contact with
+them. I will tell the publisher how to do so in this case.
+
+Let him consider what books he buys himself, what books his wife buys;
+what books his eldest son, his grandmother, his Aunt Jane, his old
+father, his butler (if he runs to one), his most intimate friend, and
+his curate buy. He will find that not one of these people buys Jinks.
+Most of them will talk Jinks, and if Jinks writes a play, however dull,
+they will probably go and see it once; but they draw the line at buying
+Jinks's books--and I don't blame them.
+
+The moral is very simple. You yourselves are "The Public," and if you
+will watch your own habits you will find that the economic explanation
+of a hundred things becomes quite clear.
+
+I have seen the same thing in the offices of a newspaper. Some simple
+truth of commanding interest to this country, involving no attack upon
+any rich man, and therefore not dangerous under our laws, comes up for
+printing. It is discussed in the editor's room. The editor says, "Yes,
+of course, we know it is true, and of course it is important, but the
+Public would not stand it."
+
+I remember one newspaper office of my youth in which the Public was
+visualized as a long file of people streaming into a Wesleyan chapel,
+and another in which the Public was supposed to be made up without
+exception of retired officers and maiden ladies, every one of whom was a
+communicant of the English Established Church, every one of good birth,
+and yet every one devoid of culture.
+
+Without the least doubt each of these absurd symbols haunted the brain
+of each of the editors in question. The editor of the first paper would
+print at wearisome length accounts of obscure Catholic clerical scandals
+on the Continent, and would sweat with alarm if his sub-editors had
+admitted a telegram concerning the trial of some fraudulent Protestant
+missionary or other in China.
+
+Meanwhile his rather dull paper was being bought by you and me, and bank
+clerks and foreign tourists, and doctors, and publicans, and brokers,
+Catholics, Protestants, atheists, "peculiar people," and every kind of
+man for many reasons--because it had the best social statistics, because
+it had a very good dramatic critic, because they had got into the habit
+and couldn't stop, because it came nearest to hand on the bookstall. Of
+a hundred readers, ninety-nine skipped the clerical scandal and either
+chuckled over the fraudulent missionary or were bored by him and went on
+to the gambling news from the Stock Exchange. But the type for whom all
+that paper was produced, the menacing god or demon who was supposed to
+forbid publication of certain news in it, did not exist.
+
+So it was with the second paper, but with this difference, that the
+editor was right about the social position of those who read his sheet,
+but quite wrong about the opinions and emotions of people in that social
+position.
+
+It was all the more astonishing from the fact that the editor was born
+in that very class himself and perpetually mixed with it. No one perhaps
+read "The Stodge" (for under this device would I veil the true name of
+the organ) more carefully than those retired officers of either service
+who are to be found in what are called our "residential" towns. The
+editor was himself the son of a colonel of guns who had settled down in
+a Midland watering-place. He ought to have known that world, and he did
+know that world, but he kept his illusion of his Public quite apart from
+his experience of realities.
+
+Your retired officer (to take his particular section of this particular
+paper's audience) is nearly always a man with a hobby, and usually a
+good scientific or literary hobby at that. He writes many of our best
+books demanding research. He takes an active part in public work which
+requires statistical study. He is always a travelled man, and nearly
+always a well-read man. The broadest and the most complete questioning
+and turning and returning of the most fundamental subjects--religion,
+foreign policy, and domestic economics--are quite familiar to him. But
+the editor was not selecting news for that real man; he was selecting
+news for an imaginary retired officer of inconceivable stupidity and
+ignorance, redeemed by a childlike simplicity. If a book came in, for
+instance, on biology, and there was a chance of having it reviewed by
+one of the first biologists of the day, he would say: "Oh, our Public
+won't stand evolution," and he would trot out his imaginary retired
+officer as though he were a mule.
+
+Artists, by which I mean painters, and more especially art critics, sin
+in this respect. They say: "The public wants a picture to tell a story,"
+and they say it with a sneer. Well, the public does want a picture to
+tell a story, because you and I want a picture to tell a story. Sorry.
+But so it is. The art critic himself wants it to tell a story, and so
+does the artist. Each would rather die than admit it, but if you set
+either walking, with no one to watch him, down a row of pictures you
+would see him looking at one picture after another with that expression
+of interest which only comes on a human face when it is following a
+human relation. A mere splash of colour would bore him; still more a
+mere medley of black and white. The story may have a very simple plot;
+it may be no more than an old woman sitting on a chair, or a landscape,
+but a picture, if a man can look at it all, tells a story right enough.
+It must interest men, and the less of a story it tells the less it will
+interest men. A good landscape tells so vivid a story that children (who
+are unspoilt) actually transfer themselves into such a landscape, walk
+about in it, and have adventures in it.
+
+They make another complaint against the public, that it desires painting
+to be lifelike. Of course it does! The statement is accurate, but the
+complaint is based on an illusion. It is you and I and all the world
+that want painting to imitate its object. There is a wonderful picture
+in the Glasgow Art Gallery, painted by someone a long time ago, in which
+a man is represented in a steel cuirass with a fur tippet over it, and
+the whole point of that picture is that the fur looks like fur and the
+steel looks like steel. I never met a critic yet who was so bold as to
+say that picture was a bad picture. It is one of the best pictures in
+the world; but its whole point is the liveliness of the steel and of the
+fur.
+
+Finally, there is one proper test to prove that all this jargon about
+"The Public" is nonsense, which is that it is altogether modern. Who
+quarrelled with the Public in the old days when men lived a healthy
+corporate life, and painted, wrote, or sang for the applause of their
+fellows?
+
+If you still suffer from the illusion after reading these magisterial
+lines of mine, why, there is a drastic way to cure yourself, which is to
+go for a soldier; take the shilling and live in a barracks for a year;
+then buy yourself out. You will never despise the public again. And
+perhaps a better way still is to go round the Horn before the mast. But
+take care that your friends shall send you enough money to Valparaiso
+for your return journey to be made in some comfort; I would not wish my
+worst enemy to go back the way he came.
+
+
+
+
+On Entries
+
+
+I am always planning in my mind new kinds of guide books. Or, rather,
+new features in guide books.
+
+One such new feature which I am sure would be very useful would be an
+indication to the traveller of how he should approach a place.
+
+I would first presuppose him quite free and able to come by rail or by
+water or by road or on foot across the fields, and then I would describe
+how the many places I have seen stand quite differently in the mind
+according to the way in which one approaches them.
+
+The value of travel, to the eye at least, lies in its presentation of
+clear and permanent impressions, and these I think (though some would
+quarrel with me for saying it) are usually instantaneous. It is the
+first sharp vision of an unknown town, the first immediate vision of a
+range of hills, that remains for ever and is fruitful of joy within the
+mind, or, at least, that is one and perhaps the chief of the fruits of
+travel.
+
+I remember once, for instance, waking from a dead sleep in a train (for
+I was very tired) and finding it to be evening. What woke me was the
+sudden stopping of the train. It was in Italy. A man in the carriage
+said to me that there was some sort of accident and that we should be
+waiting a while. The people got out and walked about by the side of the
+track. I also got out of the carriage and took the air, and when I so
+stepped out into the cool of that summer evening I was amazed at the
+loneliness and tragedy of the place.
+
+There were no houses about me that I could see save one little place
+built for the railway men. There was no cultivation either.
+
+Close before me began a sort of swamp with reeds which hardly moved to
+the air, and this gradually merged into a sheet of water above and
+beyond which were hills, barren and not very high, which took the last
+of the daylight, for they looked both southward and to the west. The
+more I watched the extraordinary and absolute scene the less I heard of
+the low voices about me, and indeed a sort of positive silence seemed to
+clothe the darkening landscape. It was full of something quite gone
+down, and one had the impression that it would never be disturbed.
+
+As the light lessened, the hills darkened, the sky took on one broad and
+tender colour, the sheet of water gleamed quite white, and the reeds
+stood up like solid shadows against it. I wish I could express in words
+the impression of recollection and of savage mourning which all that
+landscape imposed, but from that impression I was recalled and startled
+by the guard, who came along telling us that things were righted and
+that the train would start again; soon we were in our places and the
+rapid movement isolated for me the memory of a singularly vivid scene. I
+thought the place must have a name, and I asked a neighbour in the
+carriage what it was called; he told me it was called Lake Trasimene.
+
+Now I do not say that this tragic site is to be visited thus. It was but
+an accident, though an accident for which I am most grateful to my fate.
+But what I have said here illustrates my meaning that the manner of
+one's approach to any place in travel makes all the difference.
+
+Thus one may note how very different is Europe seen from the water than
+seen from any other opportunity for travel. So many of the great
+cathedrals were built to dominate men who should watch them from the
+wharves of the mediaeval towns, but I think it is almost a rule if you
+have leisure and can take your choice to choose this kind of entry to
+them. Amiens is quite a different thing seen from the river below it to
+the north and east from what it is seen by a gradual approach along the
+street of a modern town. The roofs climb up at it, and it stands
+enthroned. So Chartres seen from the little Eure; but the Eure is so
+small a river that he would be a bold man who would travel up it all
+this way. Nevertheless it is a good piece of travel, and anyone who will
+undertake it will see Louviers and will pass Anet, where the greatest
+work of the Renaissance once stood, and will go through lonely but rich
+pastures until at last he gets to Chartres by the right gate. Thence he
+will see something astonishing for so flat a region as the Beauce. The
+great church seems mountainous upon a mountain. Its apse completes the
+unclimbable steepness of the hill and its buttresses follow the lines of
+the fall of it. But if you do not come in by the river, at least come in
+by the Orleans road. I suppose that nine people out of ten, even to-day
+when the roads are in proper use again, come into Chartres by that
+northern railway entry, which is for all the world like coming into a
+great house by a big, neglected backyard.
+
+Then if ever you have business that takes you to Bayonne, come in by
+river and from the sea, and how well you will understand the little town
+and its lovely northern Gothic!
+
+Some of the great churches all the world knows must be seen from the
+water, and most of the world so sees them. Ely is one, Cologne is
+another, but how many people have looked right up at Durham as at a
+cliff from that gorge below, or how many have seen the height of Albi
+from the Tarn?
+
+As for famous cities with their walls, there is no doubt that a man
+should approach them by the chief high road, which once linked them with
+their capital, or with their nearest port, or with Rome--and that
+although this kind of entry is nowadays often marred by ugly suburbs.
+You will get much your finest sight of Segovia as you come in by the
+road from the Guadarama and from Madrid. It is from that point that you
+were meant to see the town, and you will get much your best grip on
+Carcassonne, old Carcassonne, if you come in by the road from Toulouse
+at morning as you were meant to come, and so Coucy should be approached
+by that royal road from Soissons and from the south, while as for Laon
+(the most famous of the hill towns), come to it from the east, for it
+looks eastward, and its lords were Eastern lords.
+
+Ranges of hills, I think, are never best first seen from railways.
+Indeed, I can remember no great sight of hills so seen, not even the
+Alps. A railway must of necessity follow the floor of the valley and
+tunnel and creep round the shoulders of the bulwarks. There is perhaps
+one exception to this rule, which is the sight of the Pyrenees from the
+train as one comes into Tarbes. It is a wise thing if you are visiting
+those hills to come into Tarbes by night and sleep there, and then next
+morning the train upon its way to Pau unfolds you all the wall of the
+mountains. But this is an accident. It is because the railway runs upon
+a sort of high platform that you see the mountains so. With all other
+hills that I remember it is best to have them burst suddenly upon you
+from the top of some pass lifted high above the level and coming, let us
+say, to a height half their own. Certainly the Bernese Oberland is more
+wonderful caught in one moment from the Jura than introduced in any
+other way, and the snows on Atlas over the desert seem like part of the
+sky when they come upon one after climbing the red rocks of the high
+plateaux and you see them shining over the salt marshes. The Vosges you
+cannot thus see from a half-height; there is no platform, and that is
+perhaps why the Vosges have not impressed travellers as they should. But
+you can so watch the grand chain of old volcanoes which are the rampart
+of Auvergne. You can stand upon the high wooden ridge of Foreze and see
+them take the morning across the mists and the flat of the Limagne,
+where the Gauls fought Caesar. Further south from the high table of the
+Velay you can see the steep backward escarpment of the Cevennes, inky
+blue, desperately blue, blue like nothing else on earth except the
+mountains in those painters of North Italy, of the parts north and east
+of Venice, the name of whose school escapes me--or, rather, I never knew
+it.
+
+Now, as for towns that live in a hollow, it is great fun to come upon
+them from above. They are not used to being thus taken at a disadvantage
+and they are both surprised and surprising. There are many towns in
+holes and trenches of Europe which you can thus play "peep-bo" with if
+you will come at them walking. By train they will mean nothing to you.
+You will probably come upon them out of a long, shrieking tunnel, and by
+the high road they mean little more, for the high road will follow the
+vale. But if you come upon them from over their guardian cliffs and
+scars you catch them unawares, and this is a good way of approaching
+them, for you master them, as it were, and spy them out before you enter
+in. You can act thus with Grenoble and with many a town on the Meuse,
+and particularly with Aubusson, which lies in the depths of so dreadful
+a trench that I could wonder how man ever dreamt of living and building
+there.
+
+The most difficult of all places on which to advise, I think, would be
+the very great cities, the capitals. They seem to have to-day no noble
+entries and no proper approach. Perhaps we shall only deal with them
+justly when we can circle down to them through the air and see their
+vast activity splashed over the plain. Anyhow, there is no proper way of
+entering them now that I know of. Berlin is not worth entering at all.
+Rome (a man told me once) could be entered by some particular road over
+the Janiculum, I think--which also, if I remember right, was the way
+that Shelley came--but I despair of Paris, and certainly of London. I
+cannot even recall an entry for Brussels, though Brussels is a
+monumental city with great rewards for those who love the combination of
+building and hills.
+
+Perhaps, after all, the happiest entries of all and the most easy are
+those of our many market towns, small and not swollen in Britain and in
+Northern Gaul and in the Netherlands and in the Valley of the Rhine.
+These hardly ever fail us, and we come upon them in our travels as they
+desire that we should come, and we know them properly as things should
+properly be known--that is, from the beginning.
+
+
+
+
+Companions of Travel
+
+
+I write of travelling companions in general, and not in particular,
+making of them a composite photograph, as it were, and finding what they
+have in common and what is their type; and in the first place I find
+them to be chance men. For there are some people who cannot travel
+without a set companion who goes with them from Charing Cross all over
+the world and back to Charing Cross again. And there is a pathos in
+this: as Balzac said of marriage, "What a commentary on human life, that
+human beings must associate to endure it." So it is with many who cannot
+endure to travel alone: and some will positively advertise for another
+to go with them.
+
+In a glade of the Sierra Nevada, which, for awful and, as it were,
+permanent beauty seemed not to be of this world, I came upon a man
+slowly driving along the trail a ramshackle cart, in which were a few
+chairs and tables and bedding. He had a long grey beard and wild eyes;
+he was old, and very small like a gnome, but he had not the gnome's
+good-humour. I asked him where he was going, and I slowed down, so as to
+keep pace with his ridiculous horse. For some time he would not answer
+me, and then he said, "Out of this." He added, "I am tired of it." And
+when I asked him, "Of what?" his only answer was an old-fashioned oath.
+But from further complaints which he made I gathered that what he was
+tired of was clearing forests, digging ground, paying debts, and in
+general living upon this unhappy earth. He did not like me very much,
+and though I would willingly have learned more, he would tell me nothing
+further, so when we got to a place where there was a little stream I
+went on and left him.
+
+I have never forgotten the sadness of this man. Where he was going, and
+what he expected to do, or what opportunities he had, I have never
+understood. Though some years after, in quite another place--namely,
+Steyning, in Sussex--I came upon just such another, whose quarrel was
+with the English climate, the rich and the poor, and the whole
+constitution of God's earth. These are the advantages of travel, that
+one meets so many men whom one would otherwise never meet, and that one
+feeds as it were upon the complexity of mankind.
+
+Thus in a village called Encamps, in the depths of Andorra, where no man
+has ever killed another, I found a man with a blue face, who was a
+fossil, the kind of man you would never find in the swelling life of
+Western Europe. He was emancipated, he had studied in Perpignan, over
+and beyond the great hills. He could not see why he should pay taxes to
+support a priest. "The priests" he assured me, "say the most ridiculous
+things. They narrate the most impossible fables. They affirm what cannot
+possibly be true. All that they say is in opposition to science. If I am
+ill, can a priest cure me? No. Can a priest tell me how to build, or how
+to light my house? He is unable to do so. He is a useless and a lying
+mouth, why should I feed him?"
+
+I questioned this man very closely, and discovered that in his view the
+world slowly changed from worse to better, and to accelerate this
+process enlightenment alone was needed. "But what do these brutes," he
+said, alluding to his fellow-countrymen, "know of enlightenment? They do
+not even make roads, because the priests forbid them."
+
+I could write at length upon this man. He was not a Sceptic as you may
+imagine, nor had he adopted the Lucretian form of Epicureanism. Not a
+bit of it. He was a hearty Atheist, with Positivist leanings. I further
+found that he had married a woman older, wealthier, and if possible
+uglier than himself. She kept the inn, and was very kind to him. His
+life would have been quite happy had he not been tortured by the
+monstrous superstitions of others.
+
+Then, again, in the town of Marseilles, only two years ago, I met a man
+who looked well fed, and had a stalwart, square French face, and whose
+politico-economic ideal, though it was not mine, greatly moved me. It
+was just past midnight, and I was throwing little stones into the old
+Greek harbour, the stench and the glory of which are nearly three
+thousand years old; I was to be off at dawn upon a tramp steamer, and I
+had so determined to pass the few hours of darkness.
+
+I was throwing pebbles into the water, I say, and thinking about
+Ulysses, when this man came slouching up, with his hands in the pockets
+of his enormous corduroy trousers, and, looking at me with some contempt
+from above (for he was standing, I was sitting), he began to converse
+with me. We talked first of ships, then of heat and cold, and so on to
+wealth and poverty; and thus it was I came upon his views, which were
+that there should be a sort of break up, and houses ought to be burned,
+and things smashed, and people killed; and over and above this, it
+should be made plain that no one had a right to govern: not the people,
+because they were always being bamboozled; obviously not the rich; least
+of all, the politicians, to whom he justly applied the most derogatory
+epithets. He waved his arm out in the darkness at the Phoceans, at the
+half-million of Marseilles, and said, "All that should disappear." The
+constructive side of his politico-economic scheme was negative. He was a
+practical man. None of your fine theories for him. One step at a time.
+Let there be a Chambardement--that is, a noisy collapse, and he would
+think about what to do afterwards.
+
+His was not the narrow, deductive mind. He was objective and concrete.
+Believe me or not, he was paid an excellent wage by the municipality to
+prevent people like me, who sit up at night, from doing mischief in the
+harbour. When I had come to an end of his politico-economic scheme--the
+main lines of which were so clear and simple that a child could
+understand them--we fell to talking of the tides, and I told him that in
+my country the sea went up and down. He was no rustic, and would have no
+such commonplace truths. He was well acquainted with the Phenomenon of
+the Tides; it was due to the combined attraction of the sun and of the
+moon. But when I told him I knew places where the tides fell thirty or
+forty feet, we would have had a violent quarrel had I not prudently
+admitted that that was romantic exaggeration, and that five or six was
+the most that one ever saw it move. I avoided the quarrel, but the
+little incident broke up our friendship, and he shuffled away. He did
+not like having his leg pulled.
+
+There are many others I remember. Those I have written about elsewhere I
+am ashamed to recall, as the man at Jedburgh, who first expounded to me
+how one knew all about the fate of the individual soul, and then
+objected to personal questions about his own; the German officer man at
+Aix-la-Chapelle, who had hair the colour of tow, and gave me minute
+details of the method by which England was to be destroyed; a man I met
+upon the Appian Way, who told the most abominable lies; and another man
+who met me outside Oxford station during the Vac. and offered to show me
+the sights of the town for a consideration, which he did, but I would
+not pay him because he was inaccurate, as I easily proved by a few
+searching questions upon the exact site of Bocardo (of which he had
+never heard), and the negative evidence against a Roman origin for the
+site of the city. Moreover, he said that Trinity was St. John's, which
+was rubbish.
+
+Then there was another man who travelled with me from Birmingham,
+pressed certain tracts upon me, and wanted to charge me sixpence each at
+Paddington. But if I were to speak of even these few I should exceed.
+
+
+
+
+On the Sources of Rivers
+
+
+There are certain customs in man the permanence of which gives infinite
+pleasure. When the mood of the schools is against them these customs lie
+in wait beneath the floors of society, but they never die, and when a
+decay in pedantry or in despotism or in any other evil and inhuman
+influence permits them to reappear they reappear.
+
+One of these customs is the religious attachment of man to isolated high
+places, peaks, and single striking hills. On these he must build
+shrines, and though he is a little furtive about it nowadays, yet the
+instinct is there, strong as ever. I have not often come to the top of a
+high hill with another man but I have seen him put a few stones together
+when he got there, or, if he had not the moral courage so to satisfy his
+soul, he would never fail on such an occasion to say something ritual and
+quasi-religious, even if it were only about the view; and another instinct
+of the same sort is the worship of the sources of rivers.
+
+The Iconoclast and the people whose pride it is that their senses are
+dead will see in a river nothing more than so much moisture gathered in
+a narrow place and falling as the mystery of gravitation inclines it.
+Their mood is the mood of that gentleman who despaired and wrote:
+
+ A cloud's a lot of vapour,
+ The sky's a lot of air,
+ And the sea's a lot of water
+ That happens to be there.
+
+You cannot get further down than that. When you have got as far down as
+that all is over. Luckily God still keeps his mysteries going for you,
+and you can't get rid, even in that mood, of the certitude that you
+yourself exist and that things outside of you are outside of you. But
+when you get into that modern mood you do lose the personality of
+everything else, and you forget the sanctity of river heads.
+
+You have lost a great deal when you have forgotten that, and it behoves
+you to recover what you have lost as quickly as possible, which is to be
+done in this way: Visit the source of some famous stream and think about
+it. There was a Scotchman once who discovered the sources of the Nile,
+to the lasting advantage of mankind and the permanent glory of his
+native land. He thought the source of the Nile looked rather like the
+sources of the Till or the Tweed or some such river of Thule. He has
+been ridiculed for saying this, but he was mystically very right. The
+source of the greatest of rivers, since it was sacred to him, reminded
+him of the sacred things of his home.
+
+When I consider the sources of rivers which I have seen, there is not
+one, I think, which I do not remember to have had about it an influence
+of awe. Not only because one could in imaginings see the kingdoms of the
+cities which it was to visit and the way in which it would bind them all
+together in one province and one story, but also simply because it was
+an origin.
+
+The sources of the Rhone are famous: the Rhone comes out of a glacier
+through a sort of ice cave, and if it were not for an enormous hotel
+quite four-square it would be as lonely a place as there is in Europe,
+and as remarkable a beginning for a great river as could anywhere be
+found. Nor, when you come to think of it, does any European river have
+such varied fortunes as the Rhone. It feeds such different religions and
+looks on such diverse landscapes. It makes Geneva and it makes Avignon;
+it changes in colour and in the nature of its going as it goes. It sees
+new products appearing continually on its journey until it comes to
+olives, and it flows past the beginning of human cities, when it
+reflects the huddle of old Arles.
+
+The sources of the Garonne are well known. The Garonne rises by itself
+in a valley from which there is no issue, like the fabled valleys shut
+in by hills on every side. And if it were anything but the Garonne it
+would not be able to escape: it would lie imprisoned there for ever.
+Being the Garonne it tunnels a way for itself right under the High
+Pyrenees and comes out again on the French side. There are some that
+doubt this, but then there are people who would doubt anything.
+
+The sources of the River Arun are not so famous as these two last, and
+it is a good thing, for they are to be found in one of the loneliest
+places within an hour of London that any man can imagine, and if you
+were put down there upon a windy day you would think yourself upon the
+moors. There is nothing whatsoever near you at the beginnings of the
+little sacred stream.
+
+Thames had a source once which was very famous. The water came out
+plainly at a fountain under a bleak wood just west of the Fosse Way,
+under which it ran by a culvert, a culvert at least as old as the
+Romans. But when about a hundred years ago people began to improve the
+world in those parts, they put up a pumping station and they pumped
+Thames dry--since which time its gods have deserted the river.
+
+The sources of the Ribble are in a lonely place up in a corner of the
+hills where everything has strange shapes and where the rocks make one
+think of trolls. The great frozen Whernside stands up above it, and
+Ingleborough Hill, which is like no other hill in England, but like the
+flat-topped Mesas which you have in America, or (as those who have
+visited it tell me) like the flat hills of South Africa; and a little
+way off on the other side is Pen-y-ghent, or words to that effect. The
+little River Ribble rises under such enormous guardianship. It rises
+quite clean and single in the shape of a little spring upon the
+hillside, and too few people know it. The other river that flows east
+while the Ribble flows west is the River Ayr. It rises in a curious way,
+for it imitates the Garonne, and finding itself blocked by limestone
+burrows underneath at a place called Malham Tarn, after which it has no
+more trouble.
+
+The River Severn, the River Wye, and a third unimportant river, or at
+least important only for its beauty (and who would insist on that?) rise
+all close together on the skirts of Plinlimmon, and the smallest of them
+has the most wonderful rising, for it falls through the gorge of Llygnant,
+which looks like, and perhaps is, the deepest cleft in this island, or, at
+any rate, the most unexpected. And a fourth source on the mountain, a tarn
+below its summit, is the source of Rheidol, which has a short but
+adventurous life like Achilles.
+
+There is one source in Europe that is properly dealt with, and where the
+religion due to the sources of rivers has free play, and this is the
+source of the Seine. It comes out upon the northern side of the hills
+which the French call the Hills of Gold, in a country of pasturage and
+forest, very high up above the world and thinly peopled. The River Seine
+appears there in a sort of miraculous manner, pouring out of a grotto,
+and over this grotto the Parisians have built a votive statue; and there
+is yet another of the hundred thousand things that nobody knows.
+
+
+
+
+On Error
+
+
+There is an elusive idea that has floated through the minds of most of
+us as we grew older and learnt more and more things. It is an idea
+extremely difficult to get into set terms. It is an idea very difficult
+to put so that we shall not seem nonsensical; and yet it is a very
+useful idea, and if it could be realized its realization would be of
+very practical value. It is the idea of a Dictionary of Ignorance and
+Error.
+
+On the face of it a definition of the work is impossible. Strictly
+speaking it would be infinite, for human knowledge, however far
+extended, must always be infinitely small compared with all possible
+knowledge, just as any given finite space is infinitely small compared
+with all space.
+
+But that is not the idea which we entertain when we consider this
+possible Dictionary of Ignorance and Error. What we really mean is a
+Dictionary of the sort of Ignorance and the sort of Error which we know
+ourselves to have been guilty of, which we have escaped by special
+experience or learning as time went on, and against which we would warn
+our fellows.
+
+Flaubert, I think, first put it down in words, and said that such an
+encyclopaedia was very urgently needed.
+
+It will never exist, but we all know that it ought to exist. Bits of it
+appear from time to time piecemeal and here and there, as for instance
+in the annotations which modern scholarship attaches to the great text,
+in the printed criticisms to which sundry accepted doctrines are
+subjected by the younger men to-day, in the detailed restatement of
+historical events which we get from modern research as our fathers could
+never have them--but the work itself, the complete Encyclopaedia or
+Dictionary of Ignorance and Error, will never be printed. It is a great
+pity.
+
+Incidentally one may remark that the process by which a particular error
+is propagated is as interesting to watch as the way in which a plant
+grows.
+
+The first step seems to be the establishing of an authority and the
+giving of that authority a name which comes to connote doctrinal
+infallibility. A very good example of this is the title "Science." Mere
+physical research, its achievements, its certitudes, even its
+conflicting and self-contradictory hypotheses, having got lumped
+together in many minds under this one title Science, the title is now
+sacred. It is used as a priestly title, as an immediate estopper to
+doubt or criticism.
+
+The next step is a very interesting one for the student of psychical
+pathology to note. It seems to be a disease as native and universal to
+the human mind as is the decay of the teeth to the human body. It seems
+as though we all must suffer somewhat from it, and most of us suffer a
+great deal from it, though in a cool aspect we easily perceive it to be
+a lesion of thought. And this second step is as follows:
+
+The whole lump having been given its sacred title and erected into an
+infallible authority, which you are to accept as directly superior to
+yourself and all personal sources of information, there is attributed to
+this idol a number of attributes. We give it a soul, and a habit and
+manners which do not attach to its stuff at all. The projection of this
+imagined living character in our authority is comparable to what we also
+do with mountains, statues, towns, and so forth. Our living
+individuality lends individuality to them. I might here digress to
+discuss whether this habit of the mind were not a distorted reflection
+of some truth, and whether, indeed, there be not such beings as demons
+or the souls of things. But, to leave that, we take our authority--this
+thing "Science," for instance--we clothe it with a creed and appetites
+and a will, and all the other human attributes.
+
+This done, we set out in the third step in our progress towards fixed
+error. We make the idol speak. Of course, being only an idol, it talks
+nonsense. But by the previous steps just referred to we must believe
+that nonsense, and believe it we do. Thus it is, I think, that fixed
+error is most generally established.
+
+I have already given one example in the hierarchic title "Science."
+
+It was but the other day that I picked up a weekly paper in which a
+gentleman was discussing ghosts--that is, the supposed apparition of the
+living and the dead: of the dead though dead, and of the living though
+absent.
+
+Nothing has been more keenly discussed since the beginning of human
+discussions. Are these phenomena (which undoubtedly happen) what modern
+people call subjective, or are they what modern people call objective?
+In old-fashioned English, Are the ghosts really there or are they not?
+The most elementary use of the human reason persuades us that the matter
+is not susceptible of positive proof. The criterion of certitude in any
+matter of perception is an inner sense in the perceiver that the thing
+he perceives is external to himself. He is the only witness; no one can
+corroborate or dispute him. The seer may be right or he may be wrong,
+but we have no proof--and only according to our temperament, our fancy,
+our experience, our mood, do we decide with one or the other of the two
+great schools.
+
+Well, the gentleman of whom I am speaking wrote and had printed in plain
+English this phrase (read it carefully):--"Science teaches us that these
+phenomena are purely subjective."
+
+Now I am quite sure that of the thousands who read that phrase all but a
+handful read it in the spirit in which one hears the oracle of a god.
+Some read it with regret, some with pleasure, but all with acquiescence.
+
+That physical science was not competent in the matter one way or the
+other each of those readers would probably have discovered, if even so
+simple a corrective as the use of the term "physical research" instead
+of the sacred term "science" had been applied; the hierarchic title
+"Science" did the trick.
+
+I might take another example out of many hundreds to show what I mean.
+You have an authority which is called, where documents are concerned,
+"The Best Modern Criticism." "The Best Modern Criticism" decides that
+"Tam o' Shanter" was written by a committee of permanent officials of
+the Board of Trade, or that Napoleon Bonaparte never existed. As a
+matter of fact, the tomfoolery does not usually venture upon ground so
+near home, but it talks rubbish just as monstrous about a poem a few
+hundred or a few thousand years old, or a great personality a few
+hundred or a few thousand years old.
+
+Now if you will look at that phrase "The Best Modern Criticism" you will
+see at once that it simply teems with assumption and tautology. But it
+does more and worse: it presupposes that an infallible authority must of
+its own nature be perpetually wrong.
+
+Even supposing that I have the most "modern" (that is, merely the
+latest) criticism to hand, and even supposing that by some omniscience
+of mine I can tell which is "the best" (that is, which part of it has
+really proved most ample, most painstaking, most general, and most
+sincere), even then the phrase fatally condemns me. It is to say that
+Wednesday is always infallible as compared with Tuesday, and Thursday as
+compared with Wednesday, which is absurd.
+
+The B.M.C. tells me in 1875 that the Song of Roland could have no
+origins anterior to the year 1030. But the B.M.C. of 1885 (being a
+B.M.C. and nothing more valuable) has a changed opinion. It must change
+its opinion, that is the law of its being, since an integral factor in
+its value is its modernity. In 1885 B.M.C. tells me that the Song of
+Roland can be traced to origins far earlier, let us say to 912.
+
+In 1895 B.M.C. has come to other conclusions--the Song of Roland is
+certainly as late as 1115 ... and so forth.
+
+Now you would say that an idol of that absurdity could have no effect
+upon sane men. Change the terms and give it another name, and you would
+laugh at the idea of its having an effect upon any men. But we know as a
+matter of fact that it commands the thoughts of nearly all men to-day
+and makes cowards of the most learned.
+
+Perhaps you will ask me at the end of so long a criticism in what way
+error may be corrected, since there is this sort of tendency in us to
+accept it, to which I answer that things correct it, or as the
+philosophers call things, "Reality." Error does not wash.
+
+To go back to that example of ghosts. If ever you see a ghost (my poor
+reader), I shall ask you afterwards whether he seemed subjective or no.
+I think you will find the word "subjective" an astonishingly thin
+one--if, at least, I catch you early after the experience.
+
+
+
+
+The Great Sight
+
+
+All night we had slept on straw in a high barn. The wood of its beams
+was very old, and the tiles upon the roof were green with age; but there
+hung from beam to beam, fantastically, a wire caught by nails, and here
+and there from this wire hung an electric-light bulb. It was a symbol of
+the time, and the place, and the people. There was no local by-law to
+forbid such a thing, or if there was, no one dreamt of obeying it.
+
+Just in the first dawn of that September day we went out, my companion
+and I, at guesswork to hunt in the most amusing kind of hunting, which
+is the hunting of an army. The lane led through one of those lovely
+ravines of Picardy which travellers never know (for they only see the
+plains), and in a little while we thought it wise to strike up the steep
+bank from the valley on to the bare plateau above, but it was all at
+random and all guesswork, only we wisely thought that we were nearing
+the beginning of things, and that on the bare fields of the high flat we
+should have a greater horizon and a better chance of catching any
+indications of men or arms.
+
+When we had reached the height the sun had long risen, but it as yet
+gave no shining and there were no shadows, for a delicate mist hung all
+about the landscape, though immediately above us the sky was faintly
+blue.
+
+It was the weirdest of sensations to go for mile after mile over that
+vast plain, to know that it was cut in regular series by parallel
+ravines which in all that extended view we could not guess at; to see up
+to the limits of the plateau the spires of villages and the groups of
+trees about them, and to know that somewhere in all this there lay
+concealed a _corps d'arme_--and not to see or hear a soul. The
+only human being that we saw was a man driving a heavy farm cart very
+slowly up a side-way just as we came into the great road which has shot
+dead across this country in one line ever since the Romans built it. As
+we went along that road, leaving the fields, we passed by many men
+indeed, and many houses, all in movement with the early morning; and the
+chalked numbers on the doors, and here and there an empty tin of
+polishing-paste or an order scrawled on paper and tacked to a wall
+betrayed the passage of soldiers. But of the army there was nothing at
+all. Scouting on foot (for that was what it was) is a desperate
+business, and that especially if you have nothing to tell you whether
+you will get in touch in five, or ten, or twenty miles.
+
+It was nine o'clock before a clatter of horse-hoofs came up the road
+behind us. At first my companion and I wondered whether it were the
+first riders of the Dragoons or Cuirassiers. In that case the advance
+was from behind us. But very soon, as the sound grew clearer, we heard
+how few they were, and then there came into view, trotting rapidly, a
+small escort and two officers with the umpires' badges, so there was
+nothing doing; but when, half a mile ahead of us on the road, they
+turned off to the left over plough, we knew that that was the way we
+must follow too. Before we came to the turning-place, before we left the
+road to take the fields on the left, there came from far off and on our
+right the sound of a gun.
+
+It was my companion who heard it first. We strained to hear it again;
+twice we thought we had caught it, and then again twice we doubted. It
+is not so easily recognizable a sound as you might think in those great
+plains cut by islands of high trees and steading walls. The little "75"
+gun lying low makes a different sound altogether at a distance from the
+old piece of "90." At any rate there was here no doubt that there were
+guns to the right and in front of us, and the umpire had gone to the
+left. We were getting towards the thick, and we had only to go straight
+on to find out where the front was.
+
+Just as we had so decided and were still pursuing the high road, there
+came, not half a mile away and again to our right, in a valley below us,
+that curious sound which is like nothing at all unless it be dumping of
+flints out of a cart: rifle fire. It cracked and tore in stretches. Then
+there were little gaps of silence like the gaps in signalling, and then
+it cracked and tore in stretches again; and then, fitfully, one
+individual shot and then another would be heard; and, much further off,
+with little sounds like snaps, the replies began from the hillside
+beyond the stream. So far so good. Here was contact in the valley below
+us, and the guns, some way behind and far off northwards, had opened. So
+we got the hang of it instantly--the front was a sort of a crescent
+lying roughly north and south, and roughly parallel to the great road,
+and the real or feigned mass of the advance was on the extreme left of
+that front. We were in it now, and that anxious and wearing business in
+all hunting, finding, was over; but we had been on foot six mortal hours
+before coming across our luck, and more than half the soldiers' day was
+over. These men had been afoot since three, and certain units on the
+left had already marched over twenty miles.
+
+After that coming in touch with our business, not only did everything
+become plain, but the numbers we met, and what I have called "the thick
+of things," fed us with interest. We passed half the 38th, going down
+the road singing, to extend the line, and in a large village we came to
+the other half, slouching about in the traditional fashion of the
+Service; they had been waiting for an hour. With them, and lined up all
+along the village street, was one battery, with the drivers dismounted,
+and all that body were at ease. There were men sitting on the doorsteps
+of the houses and men trotting to the canteen-wagon or to the village
+shops to buy food; and there were men reading papers which a pedlar had
+brought round. Mud and dust had splashed them all; upon some there was a
+look of great fatigue; they were of all shapes and sizes, and altogether
+it was the sort of sight you would not see in any other service in the
+world. It was the sort of sight which so disgusted the Emperor Joseph
+when he made his little tour to spy out the land before the
+Revolutionary Wars. It was the sort of sight which made Massenbach
+before Grandpr marvel whether the French forces were soldiers at all,
+and the sort of sight which made Valmy inexplicable to the King of
+Prussia and his staff. It was the sort of sight which eighteen months
+later still convinced Mack in Tournai that the Duke of York's plan was a
+plan "of annihilation." It is a trap for judgment is the French service.
+
+So they lounged about and bought bread, and shifted their packs, and so
+the drivers stood by their horses, and so they all waited and slouched;
+until there came, not a man with a bugle nor anything with the slightest
+savour of drama but a little fellow running along thumping in his loose
+leather leggings, who went up to a Major of Artillery and saluted, and
+immediately afterwards the Major put his hand up, and then down a
+village street, from a point which we could not see came a whistle, and
+the whole of that mass of men began to swarm. The grey-blue coats of the
+line swung round the corner of the village street; they had yet a few
+miles before them. Anything more rapid or less in step it would be
+difficult to conceive. The guns were off at a right angle down the main
+road, making a prodigious clatter, and at the same time appeared two
+parties, one of which it was easy to understand, the other not. They
+were both parties of sappers. The one party had a great roll of wire on
+a drum, and as quick as you could think they were unreeling it, and as
+they unreeled it fastening it to eaves, overhanging branches, and to
+corners of walls, stretching it out forward. It was the field-telephone.
+The other party came along carrying great beams upon their shoulders,
+but what they were to do with these beams we did not know.
+
+We followed the tail of the line down into the valley, and all that
+morning long and past the food time at midday, and so till the sun
+declined in the afternoon, we went with the 38th in its gradual success
+from crest to crest. And still the 38th slouched by companies, and mile
+after mile with checks and halts, and it never seemed to get either less
+or more tired. The men had had twelve hours of it when they came at
+last, and we after them, on to the critical position. They had carried
+(together with all the line to left and to the right of them) a string
+of villages which crowned the crest of a further plateau, and over this
+further plateau they were advancing against the main body of the
+resistance--the other army corps which was set up against ours, to
+simulate an enemy.
+
+A railway line ran here across the rolling hedgeless fields, and just at
+the point where my companion and I struck it there was a dip in the land
+and a high embankment which hid the plain beyond; but from that plain
+beyond one heard the separate fire of the advancing line in its
+scattered order. We climbed the embankment, and from its ridge we saw
+over two miles or more of stubble, the little creeping bunches of the
+attack. What was resisting, or where it lay, one could only guess. Some
+hundreds of yards before us to the east, with the sloping sun full on
+it, a line of thicket, one scattered wood and then another, an
+imperceptible lifting of the earth here and there marked the opposing
+firing line. Two pompoms could be spotted exactly, for the flashes were
+clear through the underwood. And still the tide of the advance continued
+to flow, and the little groups came up and fed it, one after another and
+another, in the centre where we were, and far away to the north and
+right away to the south the countryside was alive with it. The action
+was beginning to take on something of that final movement and decision
+which makes the climax of manoeuvres look so great a game. But in a
+little while that general creeping forward was checked: there were
+orders coming from the umpires, and a sort of lull fell over each
+position held. My companion said to me:
+
+"Let us go forward now over the intervening zone and in among Picquart's
+men, and get well behind their line, and see whether there is a rally or
+whether before the end of this day they begin to fall back again."
+
+So we did, walking a mile or so until we had long passed their outposts
+and were behind their forward lines. And standing there, upon a little
+eminence near a wood, we turned and looked over what we had come,
+westward towards the sun which was now not far from its setting. Then it
+was that we saw the last of the Great Sight.
+
+The level light, mellow and already reddening, illumined all that plain
+strangely, and with the absolute stillness of the air contrasted the
+opening of the guns which had been brought up to support the renewal of
+the attack. We saw the isolated woods standing up like islands with low
+steep cliffs, dotted in a sea of stubble for miles and miles, and first
+from the cover of one and then from another the advance perpetually,
+piercing and deploying. As we so watched there buzzed high above us,
+like a great hornet, a biplane, circling well within our lines, beyond
+attack from the advance, but overlooking all they concealed behind it.
+In a few minutes a great Bleriot monoplane like a hawk followed, yet
+further inwards. The two great birds shot round in an arc, parallel to
+the firing line, and well behind it, and in a few minutes, that seemed
+seconds, they were dots to the south and then lost in the air. And
+perpetually, as the sun declined, Picquart's men were falling back north
+and south of us and before us, and the advance continued. Group by group
+we saw it piercing this hedge, that woodland, now occupying a nearer and
+a nearer roll of land. It was the greatest thing imaginable: this
+enormous sweep of men, the dead silence of the air, and the
+comparatively slight contrast of the ceaseless pattering rifle fire and
+the slight intermittent accompaniment of the advancing batteries; until
+the sun set and all this human business slackened. Then for the first
+time one heard bugles, which were a command to cease the game.
+
+I would not have missed that day nor lose the memories of it for
+anything in the world.
+
+
+
+
+The Decline of a State
+
+
+The decline of a State is not equivalent to a mortal sickness therein.
+States are organisms subject to diseases and to decay as are the
+organisms of men's bodies; but they are not subject to a rhythmic rise
+and fall as is the body of a man. A State in its decline is never a
+State doomed or a State dying. States perish slowly or by violence, but
+never without remedy and rarely without violence.
+
+The decline of a State differs with the texture of it. A democratic
+State will decline from a lowering of its potential, that is of its
+ever-ready energy to act in a crisis, to correct and to control its
+servants in common times, to watch them narrowly and suspect them at all
+times. A despotic State will decline when the despot is not in point of
+fact the true depository of despotic power, but some other acting in his
+name, of whom the people know little and cannot judge; or when the
+despot, though fully in view and recognized, lacks will; or when (which
+is rare) he is so inhuman as to miss the general sense of his subjects.
+An oligarchic State, or aristocracy as it is called, will decline
+principally through two agencies which are, first, illusion, and
+secondly, lack of civic aptitude. For an oligarchic State tends very
+readily to illusion, being conducted by men who live at leisure, satisfy
+their passions, are immune from the laws, and prefer to shield
+themselves from reality. Their capacity or appetite for illusion will
+rapidly pervade those below them, for in an aristocracy the rulers are
+subjected to a sort of worship from the rest of the community, and thus
+it comes about that aristocracies in their decline accept fantastic
+histories of their own past, conceive victory possible without armies,
+wealth to be an indication of ability, and national security to be a
+natural gift rather than a product of the will. Such communities further
+fail from the lack of civic aptitude, as was said above, which means
+that they deliberately elect to leave the mass of citizens incompetent
+and irresponsible for generations, so that, when any more strain is upon
+them, they look at once for some men other than themselves to relieve
+them, and are incapable of corporate action upon their own account.
+
+The decline of a State differs also according to whether it be a great
+State or a small one, for in the first indifference, in the latter
+faction, are a peril, and in the first ignorance, in the latter private
+spite.
+
+Then again, the decline of a State will differ according to whether its
+strength is rooted originally in commerce, in arms, or in production;
+and if in production, then whether in the production of the artisan or
+in that of the peasant. If arms be the basis of the State, then that the
+army should become professional and apart is a symptom of decline and a
+cause of it; if commerce, the substitution of hazards and imaginaries
+for the transport of real goods and the search after real demand; if
+production, the discontent or apathy of the producer; as with peasants
+an ill system in the taxation of the land or in the things necessary for
+its tillage, such as a misgovernment of its irrigation in a dry country;
+the permission of private exactions and tolls in a fertile one; the
+toleration of thieves and forestallers, and so forth. Artisans, upon the
+other hand, may well flourish, though the State be corrupt in such
+matters, but they must be secured in a high wage and be given a vast
+liberty of protest, for if they sink to be slaves in fact, they will
+from the nature of their toil grow both weak and foolish. Yet is not the
+State endangered by the artisan's throwing off a refuse of ill-paid and
+starving men who are either too many for the work or unskilful at it?
+Such an excretion would poison a peasantry, remaining in their body as
+it were, but artisans are purged thereby. This refuse it is for the
+State to decide upon. It may in an artisan State be used for soldiery
+(since such States commonly maintain but small armies and are commonly
+indifferent to military glory), or it may be set to useful labour, or
+again, destroyed; but this last use is repugnant to humanity, and so in
+the long run hurtful to the State.
+
+In the decline of a State, of whatever nature that State be, two vices
+will immediately appear and grow: these are Avarice and Fear; and men
+will more readily accept the imputation of Avarice than of Fear, for
+Avarice is the less despicable of the two--yet in fact Fear will be by
+far the strongest passion of the time.
+
+Avarice will show itself not indeed in a mere greed of gain (for this is
+common to all societies whether flourishing or failing), but rather in a
+sort of taking for granted and permeation of the mere love of money, so
+that history will be explained by it, wars judged by their booty or
+begun in order to enrich a few, love between men and women wholly
+subordinated to it, especially among the rich: wealth made a test for
+responsibility and great salaries invented and paid to those who serve
+the State. This vice will also be apparent in the easy acquaintance of
+all who are possessed of wealth and their segregation from the less
+fortunate, for avarice cleaves society flatways, keeping the scum of it
+quite clear of the middle, the middle of it quite clear of the dregs,
+and so forth. It is a further mark of avarice in its last stages that
+the rich are surrounded with lies in which they themselves believe.
+Thus, in the last phase, there are no parasites but only friends, no
+gifts but only loans, which are more esteemed favours than gifts once
+were. No one vicious but only tedious, and no one a poltroon but only
+slack.
+
+Of Fear in the decline of a State it may be said that it is so much the
+master passion of such decline as to eat up all others. Coming by travel
+from a healthy State to one diseased, Fear is the first point you take.
+Men dare not print or say what they feel of the judges, the public
+governors, the action of the police, the controllers of fortunes and of
+news. This Fear will have about it something comic, providing infinite
+joy to the foreigner, and modifying with laughter the lament of the
+patriot. A miserable hack that never had a will of his own, but ran to
+do what he was told for twenty years at the bidding of his masters,
+being raised to the Bench will be praised for an impartial virtue more
+than human. A drunken fellow, the son of a drunkard, having stolen
+control over some half-dozen sheets, must be named under the breath or
+not at all. A powerful minister may be accused with sturdy courage of
+something which he did not do and no one would mind his doing, but under
+the influence of Fear, to tell the least little truth about him will put
+a whole assembly into a sort of blankness.
+
+This vice has for its most laughable effect the raising of a whole host
+of phantoms, and when a State is so far gone that civic Fear is quite
+normal to the citizens, then you will find them blenching with terror at
+a piece of print, a whispered accusation. Bankruptcy, though they be
+possessed of nothing, and even the ill-will of women. Moneylenders under
+this influence have the greatest power, next after them, blackmailers of
+all kinds, and next after these eccentrics who may blurt or break out.
+Those who have least power in the decline of a State, are priests,
+soldiers, the mothers of many children, the lovers of one woman, and
+saints.
+
+
+
+
+On Past Greatness
+
+
+There lies in the North-East of France, close against the Belgian
+frontier and within cannon shot of the famous battlefield of Malplaquet,
+a little town called Bavai--I have written of it elsewhere.
+
+Coming into this little town you seem to be entering no more than a
+decent, unimportant market borough, a larger village meant for country
+folk, perhaps without a history and certainly without fame.
+
+As you come to look about you one thing after another enlivens your
+curiosity and suggests something at once enormous and remote in the
+destinies of the place.
+
+In the first place, seven great roads go out like the seven rays of a
+star, plumb straight, darting along the line, across the vast, bare
+fields of Flanders, past and along the many isolated woods of the
+provinces, and making to great capitals far off--to Cologne, to Paris,
+to Treves, and to the ports of the sea.
+
+These roads are deserted in great part. Some of them are metalled in
+certain sections, and again in other sections are no more than lanes,
+and again no more than footpaths, as you proceed along their miles of
+way; but their exact design awfully impresses the mind. You know, as you
+follow such strict alignment, that you are fulfilling the majestic
+purpose of Imperial Rome. It was the Romans that made these things.
+
+Then, intrigued and excited by such remains of greatness, you read what
+you can of the place.... And you find nothing but a dust of legend. You
+find a story that once here a king, filled with ambition and worshipping
+strange gods, thrust out these great roads to the ends of the earth;
+desired his capital to be a hub and navel for the world. He put them
+under the protection of the seven planets and of the deities of those
+stars. Three he paved with black marble and four with white marble, and
+where they met upon the market place he put up a golden terminal. There
+the legend ends.
+
+It is only legend--a true product of the Dark Ages, when all that Rome
+had done rose like a huge dream in the mind of Europe and took on
+gorgeous and fantastic colouring. You learn (for the rest) very
+little--that ornaments and money have been found dating from two
+thousand years, that once great walls surrounded the place. It must have
+had noble buildings and solemn courts. In strict history all you will
+discover is that it was the capital of that tribe, the Nervii, against
+whom Caesar fought, and whose territory was early conquered for the
+Empire. You will find nothing more. There is no living tradition, there
+is no voice; the little town is dumb.
+
+The place is a figure, and a striking one, of greatness long dead, and a
+man visiting its small domestic interests to-day, and noting its
+comfort, its humility, and its sleep, is reminded of many things
+attaching to human fame. It would seem as though the ambitions of men,
+and that exalted appetite for glory which has produced the chief things
+of this world, suffer the effect of time somewhat as the body of an
+animal slain will suffer that.
+
+One part of the organism and then another decays and mixes back with
+nature. The effect of will has vanished. The thing is a prey to all that
+environment which, once alive, it combated, conquered, and transformed
+to its own use. One portion after another is lost, until at last only
+the most resisting stands--the skeleton and hard framework, the least
+expressive, the least personal part of the whole. This also decays and
+perishes. Then there remains no more but a score of hardened fragments
+that linger in their place, and what has passed away is fortunate if
+even the slightest or most fantastic legend of itself survives.
+
+The great dead are first forgotten in their physical habit; we lose the
+nature of their voices, we forget their sympathies and their affections.
+Bit by bit all that they intended to be eternal slips back into the
+common thing around. A blurred image, growing fainter and fainter,
+lingers. At last the person vanishes, and in its place some public
+raising material things--a monument, a tomb, an ornament, or weapon of
+enduring metal--is all that remains.
+
+If it were possible for the spring of appetite and quest to be dried up
+in man, such a spectacle would dry up that spring.
+
+It is not possible, for it is providentially in the nature of man to
+cherish these illusions of an immortal memory and of a life bestowed
+upon the shade or the mere name of his living greatness. Those various
+forms of fame which are young men's goals, and to which the eager
+creative power of early manhood so properly directs itself, seem each in
+turn or each for its varying temperament to promise the desired reward;
+and one imagines that his love, another that his discoveries, another
+that his victories in the field or his conspicuous acts of courage will
+remain permanently with his fellows long after he has left their feast.
+
+As though to give some substance to the flattering cheat, there is one
+kind of fame which men have been permitted to attain, and which does
+give them a sort of fixed tenure--if not for ever, yet for generations
+upon generations--in the human city. This sort of fame is the fame of
+the great poets. There is nothing more enduring. It has for some who
+were most blessed outlasted, you may say, all material things which they
+handled or they knew--all fabrics, all instruments, all habitations. It
+is comparable in its endurance to the years, and a man reads the "Song
+of Roland" and can still look on that same unchanged Cleft of
+Roncesvalles, or a man reads the Iliad and can look to-day westward from
+the shores to Tenedos. But wait a moment. Are they indeed blessed in
+this, the great poets? Ronsard debated it. He decided that they were,
+and put into the mouth of the muses the great lines:----
+
+ Mais un tel accident n'arrive point a l'me,
+ Qui sans matire vist immortelle l haut.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ Vela saigement dit, Ceux dont la fantaisie
+ Sera religieuse et devote envers Dieu
+ Tousjours acheveront quelque grand posie,
+ Et dessus leur renom la Parque n'aura lieu.
+
+But the matter is still undecided.
+
+
+
+
+Mr. The Duke: The Man of Malplaquet
+
+
+On the field of Malplaquet, that battlefield, I met a man.
+
+He was pointed out to me as a man who drove travellers to Bavai. His
+name was Mr. The Duke, and he was very poor.
+
+If he comes across these lines (which is exceedingly unlikely) I offer
+him my apologies. Anyhow, I can write about him freely, for he is not
+rich, and, what is more, the laws of his country permit the telling of
+the truth about our fellow-men, even when they are rich.
+
+Mr. The Duke was of some years, and his colour was that of cedar wood. I
+met him in his farmyard, and I said to him:
+
+"Is it you, sir, that drive travellers to Bavai?"
+
+"No," said he.
+
+Accustomed by many years of travel to this type of response, I
+continued:
+
+"How much do you charge?"
+
+"Two francs fifty," said he.
+
+"I will give you three francs," I said, and when I had said this he
+shook his head and replied:
+
+"You fall at an evil moment; I was about to milk the cows." Having said
+this he went to harness the horse.
+
+When the horse was harnessed to his little cart (it was an extremely
+small horse, full of little bones and white in colour, with one eye
+stronger than the other) he gave it to his little daughter to hold, and
+himself sat down to table, proposing a meal.
+
+"It is but humble fare," he said, "for we are poor."
+
+This sounded familiar to me; I had both read and heard it before. The
+meal was of bread and butter, pasty and beer, for Malplaquet is a
+country of beer and not of wine.
+
+As he sat at table the old man pointed out to me that contraband across
+the Belgian frontier, which is close by, was no longer profitable.
+
+"The Fraud," he said, "is no longer a living for anyone."
+
+Upon that frontier contraband is called "The Fraud"; it holds an
+honourable place as a career.
+
+"The Fraud," he continued, "has gone long ago; it has burst. It is no
+longer to be pursued. There is not even any duty upon apples.... But
+there is a duty upon pears. Had I a son I would not put him into The
+Fraud.... Sometimes there is just a chance here and there.... One can
+pick up an occasion. But take it all in all (and here he wagged his head
+solemnly) there is nothing in it any more."
+
+I said that I had no experience of contraband professionally, but that I
+knew a very honest man who lived by it in the country of Andorra, and
+that according to my morals a man had a perfect right to run the risk
+and take his chance, for there was no contract between him and the power
+he was trying to get round. This announcement pleased the old gentleman,
+but it did not grip his mind. He was of your practical sort. He was
+almost a Pragmatist. Abstractions wearied him. He put no faith in the
+reality of ideas. I think he was a Nominalist like Abelard: and whatever
+excuse you may make for him, Abelard was a Nominalist right enough, for
+it was the intellectual thing to be at the time, though St. Bernard
+utterly confuted him in arguments of enormous length and incalculable
+boredom.
+
+The old man, then, I say, would have nothing to do with first
+principles, and he reasserted his position that, in the concrete, in the
+existent world, The Fraud no longer paid.
+
+This said for the sixth or seventh time, he drank some brandy to put
+heart into him and climbed up into his little cart, I by his side. He
+hit the white horse with a stick, making at the same time an
+extraordinary shrill noise with his mouth, like a siren, and the horse
+began to slop and sludge very dolefully towards Bavai.
+
+"This horse," said Mr. The Duke, "is a wonderfully good horse. He goes
+like the wind. He is of Arab extraction, and comes from Africa."
+
+With these words he gave the horse another huge blow with his stick, and
+once more emitted his piercing cry. The horse went neither faster nor
+slower than before, and seemed very indifferent to the whole
+performance.
+
+"He is from Africa," said Mr. The Duke again, meditatively. "Do you know
+Africa?"
+
+Africa with the French populace means Algiers. I answered that I knew
+it, and that in particular I knew the road southward from Constantine.
+At this he looked very pleased, and said:
+
+"I was a soldier in Africa. I deserted seven times."
+
+To this I made no answer. I did not know how he wanted me to take it, so
+I waited until he should speak again, which he soon did, and said:
+
+"The last time I deserted I was free for a year and a half. I used to
+conduct beasts; that was my trade. When they caught me I was to have
+been shot. I was saved by the tears of a woman!"
+
+Having said this the old man pulled out a very small pipe and filled it
+with exceedingly black tobacco. He lit it, then he began talking again
+rather more excitedly.
+
+"It is a terrible thing and an unhappy thing none the less," he went on,
+"that a man should be taken out to be shot and should be saved by the
+tears of a woman." Then he added, "Of what use are wars? How foolish it
+is that men should kill each other! If there were a war I would not
+fight. Would you?"
+
+I said I thought I would; but whether I should like to or not would
+depend upon the war.
+
+He was eager to contradict and to tell me that war was wrong and stupid.
+Having behind him the logical training of fifteen Christian centuries he
+was in no way muddle-headed upon the matter. He saw very well that his
+doctrine meant that it was wrong to have a country, and wrong to love
+it, and that patriotism was all bosh, and that no ideal was worth
+physical pain or trouble. To such conclusions had he come at the end of
+his life.
+
+The white horse meanwhile slouched; Bavai grew somewhat nearer as we sat
+in silence after his last sentence. He was turning many things over in
+his mind. He veered off on to political economy.
+
+"When the rich man at the Manufactory here, the place where they sell
+phosphates for the land, when he stands beer to all the workmen and to
+the countryside, I always say, 'Fools! All this will be put on to the
+cost of the phosphates; they will cost you more!'"
+
+Mr. The Duke did not accept John Stuart Mill's proposition upon the cost
+of production nor the general theories of Ricardo upon which Mill's
+propositions were based. In his opinion rent was a factor in the cost of
+production, for he told me that butter had gone up because the price of
+land was rising near the towns. In what he next said I found out that he
+was not a Collectivist, for he said a man should own enough to live
+upon, but he said that this was impossible if rich people were allowed
+to live. I asked him what the politics of the countryside were and how
+people voted. He said:
+
+"The politicians trick the people. They are a heap of worthlessness."
+
+I asked him if he voted, and he said "yes." He said there was only one
+way to vote, but I did not understand what this meant.
+
+Had time served I should have asked him further questions--upon the
+nature of the soul, its ultimate fate, the origin of man and his
+destiny, whether mortal or immortal; the proper constitution of the
+State, the choice of the legislator, the prince, and the magistrate; the
+function of art, whether it is subsidiary or primary in human life; the
+family; marriage. Upon the State he had already informed me, and also
+upon the institution of property, and upon his view of armies. Upon all
+those other things he would equally have given me a clear reply, for he
+was a man that knew his own mind, and that is more than most people can
+say.
+
+But we were now in Bavai, and I had no time to discover more. We drank
+together before we parted, and I was very pleased to see the honest look
+in his face. With more leisure and born to greater opportunities he
+would have been talked about, this Man of Malplaquet. He had come to his
+odd conclusions as the funny people do in Scandinavia and in Russia, and
+among the rich intellectuals and usurers in London and Berlin; but he
+was a jollier man than they are, for he could drive a horse and lie
+about it, and he could also milk a cow. As we parted he used a phrase
+that wounded me, and which I had only heard once before in my life. He
+said:
+
+"We shall never see each other again!"
+
+Another man had once said this thing to me before. This man was a farmer
+in the Northumbrian hills, who walked with me a little way in the days
+when I was going over Carter Fell to find the Scots people, many, many
+years ago. He also said: "We shall never meet again!"
+
+
+
+
+The Game of Cards
+
+
+A youth of no more than twenty-three years entered a first-class
+carriage at the famous station of Swindon in the county of Wiltshire,
+proposing to travel to the uttermost parts of the West and to enjoy a
+comfortable loneliness while he ruminated upon all things human and
+divine; when he was sufficiently annoyed to discover that in the further
+corner of the carriage was sitting an old gentleman of benevolent
+appearance, or at any rate a gentleman of benevolent appearance who
+appeared in his youthful eyes to be old.
+
+For though the old gentleman was, as a fact, but sixty, yet his virile
+beard had long gone white and the fringes of hair attaching to his
+ostrich egg of a head confirmed his venerable appearance.
+
+When the train had started the young man proceeded in no very good
+temper and with great solemnity to fill a pipe. He turned to his senior,
+who was watching him in a very paternal and happy manner, and said
+formally:
+
+"I hope you do not mind my smoking, sir?"
+
+"Not at all," said the old boy; "it is a habit I have long grown
+accustomed to in others."
+
+The young man bowed in a somewhat absurd fashion and felt for his
+matches. He discovered to his no small mortification that he had none.
+He was so used to his pipe after a meal that he really could not forgo
+it. He came off his perch by at least three steps and asked the old man
+very gently whether he had any matches.
+
+The older man produced a box and at the same time brought out with it a
+little notebook and a playing card which happened to be in his pocket.
+The young man took the matches and lit his pipe, surveying the old man
+the while with a more complacent eye.
+
+"It is very kind of you, sir," he said a little less stiffly. He handed
+back the matches, wrapped his rug round his legs, sat down in his place,
+and knowing that one should prolong the conversation for a moment or two
+after a favour, said: "I see that you play cards."
+
+"I do," said the old man simply; "would you like a game?"
+
+"I don't mind," said the young man, who had always heard that it was
+unmanly and ridiculous to refuse a game of cards in a railway carriage.
+
+The elder man laughed merrily in his strong beard as he saw his junior
+begin to spread somewhat awkwardly a copy of a newspaper upon his knees.
+"I'll show you a trick worth two of that," he said, and taking one of
+the first-class cushions, which alone of railway cushions are movable
+from its place, he came over to the corner opposite the young man and
+made a table of the cushion between them. "Now," said he genially,
+"what's it to be?"
+
+"Well," said the young man like one who expounds new mysteries, "do you
+know piquet?"
+
+"Oh, yes," said his companion with another happy little laugh of
+contentment with the world. "I'll take you on. What shall it be?"
+
+"Pennies if you like," said the young man nonchalantly.
+
+"Very well, and double for the Rubicon."
+
+"How do you mean?" said the young man, puzzled.
+
+"You will see," said the old man, and they began to play.
+
+The game was singularly absorbing. At first the young man won a few
+pounds; then he lost rather heavily, then he won again, but not quite
+enough to recoup. Then in the fourth game he won, so that he was a
+little ahead, and meanwhile the old man chatted merrily during the
+discarding or the shuffling: during the shuffling especially. He looked
+out towards the downs with something of a sigh at one moment, and said:
+
+"It's a happy world."
+
+"Yes," answered the younger man with the proper lugubriousness of youth,
+"but it all comes to an end."
+
+"It isn't its coming to an end," said the elder man, declaring a point
+of six, "that's not the tragedy; it's the little bits coming to an end
+meanwhile, before the whole comes to an end: that's the tragedy...." But
+he added with another of his jolly laughs: "We must play. Piquet takes
+up all one's grey matter."
+
+They played and the young man lost again, but by a very narrow margin:
+it was quite an absorbing game. As they shuffled again the young man
+said:
+
+"What did you mean by the little bits stopping, or whatever it was?"
+
+"Oh," said the old man as though he couldn't remember, and then he
+added: "Oh, yes, I mean you'll find, as you grow older, people die and
+affections change, and, though it seems silly to mention it in company
+with higher things, there's what Shelley called the 'contagion of the
+world's slow stain.'"
+
+Then their conversation was interrupted by the ardour of the game; but
+as they played the young man was ruminating, and he had come to the
+conclusion that his senior was imperfectly educated and was probably of
+the middle classes, whereas he himself was destined to be a naval
+architect, and with that object had recently left the university for an
+office in the city. The young man thought that a man properly educated
+would never quote a tag: he was wrong there. As he had allowed his
+thoughts to wander somewhat the young man lost that game rather heavily,
+and at the end of it he was altogether about ten shillings to the bad.
+It was his turn to shuffle. The older man was at leisure to speak, and
+did so rather dreamily as he gazed at the landscape again.
+
+"Things change, you know," he said, "and there is the contagion of the
+world's slow stain. One gets preoccupied: especially about money. When
+men marry they get very much preoccupied upon that point. It's bad for
+them, but it can't be helped."
+
+"You cut," said the young man.
+
+His elder cut and they played again. This time as they played their game
+the old man broke his rule of silence and continued his observations
+interruptedly:
+
+"Four kings," he said.... "It isn't that a man gets to think money
+all-important, it is that he has to think of it all the time.... No,
+three queens are no good. I said four kings.... four knaves.... The
+little losses of money don't affect one, but perpetual trouble about it
+does, and" (closing up the majority of tricks which he had just gained)
+"many a man goes on making more year after year and yet feels himself in
+peril.... _And_ the last trick." He took up the cards to shuffle
+them. "Towards the very end of life," he continued, "it gets less, I
+suppose, but you'll feel the burden of it." He put the pack over for the
+younger man to cut. When that was done he dealt them out slowly. As he
+dealt he said: "One feels the loss of little material things: objects to
+which one was attached, a walking-stick, or a ring, or a watch which one
+has carried for years. Your declare."
+
+The young man declared, and that game was played in silence. I regret to
+say that the young man was Rubiconed, and was thirty shillings in the
+elder's debt.
+
+"We'll stop if you like" said the elder man kindly.
+
+"Oh, no," said the youth with nonchalance, "I'll pay you now if you
+like."
+
+"Not at all, I didn't mean that," said the older man with a sudden prick
+of honour.
+
+"Oh, but I will, and we'll start fair again," said the young man.
+Whereupon he handed over his combined losses in gold, the older man gave
+him change, they shuffled again, and they went on with their play.
+
+"After all," said the older man, musing as he confessed to a point of no
+more than five, "it's all in the day's work.... It's just a day's work,"
+he repeated with a saddened look in his eyes, "it's a game that one
+plays like this game, and then when it's over it's over. It's the little
+losses that count."
+
+That game again was unfortunate for the young man, and he had to shell
+out fifteen and six. But the brakes were applied, Bristol was reached,
+the train came to a standstill, and the young man, looking up a little
+confused and hurried, said: "Hello, Bristol! I get out here."
+
+"So do I," said the older man. They both stood up together, and the jolt
+of the train as it stopped dead threw them into each other's arms.
+
+"I am really very sorry," said the youth.
+
+"It's my fault," said the old chap like a good fellow, "I ought to have
+caught hold. You get out and I'll hand you your bag."
+
+"It's very kind of you," said the young man. He was really flattered by
+so much attention, but he knew himself what a good companion he was and
+he could understand it; besides which they had made friends during that
+little journey. He always liked a man to whom he had lost some money in
+an honest game.
+
+There was a heavy crowd upon the platform, and two men barging up out of
+it saluted the old man boisterously by the name of Jack. He twinkled at
+them with his eyes as he began moving the luggage about, and stood for a
+moment in the doorway with his own bag in his right hand and the young
+man's bag in his left. The young man so saw it for an instant, a fine
+upstanding figure--he saw his bag handed by some mistake to the second
+of the old man's friends, a porter came by at the moment pushing through
+the crowd with a trolley, an old lady made a scene, the porter
+apologized, the crowd took sides, some for the porter, some for the old
+lady; the young man, with the deference of his age, politely asked
+several people to make way, but when he had emerged from the struggle
+his companion, his companion's friends, and his own bag could not be
+found; or at any rate he could not make out where they were in the great
+mass that pushed and surged upon the platform.
+
+He made himself a little conspicuous by asking too many questions and by
+losing his temper twice with people who had done him no harm, when, just
+as his excitement was growing more than querulous, a very heavy,
+stupid-looking man in regulation boots tapped him on the shoulder and
+said: "Follow me." He was prepared with an oath by way of reply, but
+another gentleman of equal weight, wearing boots of the same pattern,
+linked his arm in his and between them they marched him away, to a
+little private closet opening out of the stationmaster's room.
+
+"Now, sir," said he who had first tapped him on the shoulder, "be good
+enough to explain your movements."
+
+"I don't know what you mean," said the young man.
+
+"You were in the company," said the older man severely, "of an old man,
+bald, with a white beard and a blue sailor suit. He had come from
+London; you joined him at Swindon. We have evidence that he was to be
+met at this station and it will be to your advantage if you make a clean
+breast of it."
+
+The young man was violent and he was borne away.
+
+But he had friends at Bristol. He gave his references and he was
+released. To this day he believes that he suffered not from folly, but
+from injustice. He did not see his bag again, but after all it contained
+no more than his evening clothes, for which he had paid or rather owed
+six guineas, four shirts, as many collars and dress ties, a
+silver-mounted set of brushes and combs, and useless cut-glass bottles,
+a patented razor, a stick of shaving soap, and two very, very
+confidential letters which he treasured. His watch, of course, was gone,
+but not, I am glad to say, his chain, which hung dangling, though in his
+flurry he had not noticed it. It made him look a trifle ridiculous. As
+he wore no tie-pin he had not lost that, and beyond his temper he had
+indeed lost nothing further save, possibly, a textbook upon
+Thermodynamics. This book he _thought_ he remembered having put
+into the bag, and if he had it belonged to his library, but he could not
+quite remember this point, and when the Library claimed it he stoutly
+disputed their claim.
+
+In this dispute he was successful, but it was the only profit he made
+out of that journey, unless we are to count his experience, and
+experience, as all the world knows, is a thing that men must buy.
+
+
+
+
+"King Lear"
+
+
+The great unity which was built up two thousand years ago and was
+called Christendom in its final development split and broke in pieces.
+The various civilizations of its various provinces drifted apart, and it
+will be for the future historian to say at what moment the isolation of
+each from all was farthest pushed. It is certain that that point is
+passed.
+
+In the task of reuniting what was broken--it is the noblest work a
+modern man can do--the very first mechanical act must be to explain one
+national soul to another. That act is not final. The nations of Europe,
+now so divided, still have more in common than those things by which
+they differ, and it is certain that when they have at last revealed to
+them their common origin they will return to it. They will return to it,
+perhaps, under the pressure of war waged by some not Christian
+civilization, but they will return. In the meanwhile, of those acts not
+final, yet of immediate necessity in the task of establishing unity, is
+the act of introducing one national soul to another.
+
+Now this is best accomplished in a certain way which I will describe.
+You will take that part in the letters of a nation which you maturely
+judge most or best to reflect the full national soul, with its
+qualities, careless of whether these be great or little; you will take
+such a work as reproduces for you as you read it, not only in its
+sentiment, but in its very rhythm, the stuff and colour of the nation;
+this you will present to the foreigner, who cannot understand. His
+efforts must be laborious, very often unfruitful, but where it is
+fruitful it will be of a decisive effect.
+
+Thus let anyone take some one of the immortal things that Racine wrote
+and show them to an Englishman. He will hardly ever be able to make
+anything of it at first. Here and there some violently emotional passage
+may faintly touch him, but the mass of the verse will seem to him dead.
+Now, if by constant reading, by association with those who know what
+Racine is, he at last sees him--and these changes in the mind come very
+suddenly--he will see into the soul of Gaul. For the converse task,
+to-day not equally difficult but once almost impossible, of presenting
+England to the French intelligence--or, indeed, to any other alien
+intelligence--you may choose the play "King Lear."
+
+That play has every quality which does reflect the soul of the community
+in which and for which it was written. Note a few in their order.
+
+First, it is not designed to its end; at least it is not designed
+accurately to its end; it is written as a play and it is meant to be
+acted as a play, and it is the uniform opinion of those versed in plays
+and in acting that in its full form it could hardly be presented, while
+in any form it is the hardest even of Shakespeare's plays to perform.
+Here you have a parallel with a thousand mighty English things to which
+you can turn. Is there not institution after institution to decide on,
+so lacking a complete fitness to its end, larger in a way than the end
+it is to serve, and having, as it were, a life of its own which proceeds
+apart from its effect? This quality which makes so many English things
+growths rather than instruments is most evident in the great play.
+
+Again, it has that quality which Voltaire noted, which he thought
+abnormal in Shakespeare, but which is the most national characteristic
+in him, that a sort of formlessness, if it mars the framework of the
+thing and spoils it, yet also permits the exercise of an immeasurable
+vitality. When a man has read "King Lear" and lays down the book he is
+like one who has been out in one of those empty English uplands in a
+storm by night. It is written as though the pen bred thoughts. It is
+possible to conjecture as one reads, and especially in the diatribes,
+that the pen itself was rapid and the brain too rapid for the pen. One
+feels the rush of the air. Now, this quality is to be discovered in the
+literature of many nations, but never with the fullness which it has in
+the literature of England. And note that in those phases of the national
+life when foreign models have constrained this instinct of expansion in
+English verse, they never have restrained it for long, and that even
+through the bonds established by those models the instinct of expansion
+breaks. You see it in the exuberance of Dryden and in the occasional
+running rhetoric of Pope, until it utterly loosens itself with the end
+of the eighteenth century.
+
+The play is national, again, in that permanent curiosity upon knowable
+things--nay, that mysterious half-knowledge of unknowable things--which,
+in its last forms, produced the mystic, and which is throughout history
+so plainly characteristic of these Northern Atlantic islands. Every play
+of Shakespeare builds with that material, and no writer, even of the
+English turn, has sent out points further into the region of what is not
+known than Shakespeare has in sudden flashes of phrase. But "King Lear,"
+though it contains a lesser number of lines of this mystical and
+half-religious effect than, say, "Hamlet," yet as a general impression
+is the more mystical of the two plays. The element of madness, which in
+"Hamlet" hangs in the background like a storm-cloud ready to break, in
+"King Lear" rages; and it is the use of this which lends its amazing
+psychical power to the play. It has been said (with no great profundity
+of criticism) that English fiction is chiefly remarkable for its power
+of particularization of character, and that where French work, for
+instance, will present ideas, English will present persons. The judgment
+is grossly insufficient, and therefore false, but it is based upon a
+proof which is very salient in English letters, which is that, say, in
+quite short and modern work the sense of complete unity deadens the
+English mind. The same nerve which revolts at a straight road and at a
+code of law revolts against one tone of thought, and the sharp contrast
+of emotional character, not the dual contrast which is common to all
+literatures, but the multiple contrast, runs through "King Lear" and
+gives the work such a tone that one seems as one reads it to be moving
+in a cloud.
+
+The conclusion is perhaps Shakespearean rather than English, and in a
+fashion escapes from any national labelling. But the note of silence
+which Shakespeare suddenly brings in upon the turmoil, and with which he
+is so fond of completing what he has done, would not be possible were
+not that spirit of expansion and of a kind of literary adventurousness
+present in all that went before.
+
+It is indeed this that makes the play so memorable. And it may not be
+fantastic to repeat and expand what has been said above in other words,
+namely, that King Lear has something about him which seems to be a
+product of English landscape and of English weather, and if its general
+movement is a storm its element is one of those sudden silences that
+come sometimes with such magical rapidity after the booming of the wind.
+
+
+
+
+The Excursion
+
+
+It is so old a theme that I really hesitate to touch it; and yet it is
+so true and so useful that I will. It is true all the time, and it is
+particularly useful at this season of the year to men in cities: to all
+repetitive men: to the men that read these words. What is more, true as
+it is and useful as it is, no amount of hammering at people seems to get
+this theme into their practice; though it has long ago entered into
+their convictions they will not act upon it in their summers. And this
+true and useful theme is the theme of little freedoms and discoveries,
+the value of getting loose and away by a small trick when you want to
+get your glimpse of Fairyland.
+
+Now how does one get loose and away?
+
+When a man says to himself that he must have a holiday he means that he
+must see quite new things that are also old: he desires to open that
+door which stood wide like a window in childhood and is now shut fast.
+But where are the new things that are also the old? Paradoxical fellows
+who deserve drowning tell one that they are at our very doors. Well,
+that is true of the eager mind, but the mind is no longer eager when it
+is in need of a holiday. And you can get at the new things that are also
+the old by way of drugs, but drugs are a poor sort of holiday fabric. If
+you have stored up your memory well with much experience you can get
+these things from your memory--but only in a pale sort of way.
+
+I think the best avenue to recreation by the magical impressions of the
+world upon the mind is this: To go to some place to which the common
+road leads you and then to get just off the common road. You will be
+astonished to find how strange the world becomes in the first mile--and
+how strange it remains till the common road is reached again.
+
+It always sounds like a mockery for a man who has travelled to a great
+many places, as I have, to advise his fellows to travel abroad; they are
+most of them hard tied. Yet it is really a much easier thing than men
+bound to the desk and the workshop understand. Britain is but one great
+port, and its inward seas are narrow--and the fares are ridiculously
+low. If you are a young man you can go almost anywhere for almost
+anything, sitting up by night on deck, and not expecting too much
+courtesy. But, of course, if you shirk the sea you are a prisoner.
+
+Well, then, supposing you abroad, or even in some other part of this
+highly varied kingdom in which you live, and supposing you to have
+reached some chosen place by some common road--what I desire to dilate
+upon here is the truth which every little excursion of business or of
+leisure (and precious few of leisure) makes me more certain of every
+day: That just a little way off the road is fairyland.
+
+It was exactly three days ago that I had occasion to go down the railway
+line that is the most frequented in Europe: I was on business, not
+leisure, but in the business I had two days' leisure, and I did what I
+would advise all other men to do in such a circumstance.
+
+I took a train to nowhere, fixing my starting-point thus:--
+
+I first looked at the map and saw where nearest to me was a
+quadrilateral bare of railways. This formula, to look for a
+quadrilateral bare of railways, is a very useful formula for the man who
+is seeking another world. Then I fixed at random upon one little
+roadside station upon the main line; I determined to get out there and
+to walk aimlessly and westward until I should strike the other side of
+the quadrilateral. I made no plan, not even of the hours of the day.
+
+I came into my roadside station at half-past eight of the long summer
+night, broad daylight that is, but with night advancing. I got out and
+began my westward march. At once there crowded upon me any number of
+unexpected and entertaining things!
+
+The first thing I found was a street which was used by horses as well as
+by men, and yet was made up of broad steps. It was a sort of stair-case
+going up a hill. At the top of it I found a woman leading a child by the
+hand. I asked her the name of the steps. She told me they were called
+"The Steps of St. John."
+
+A quarter of a mile further down the narrow lane I saw to my
+astonishment an enormous castle, ruined and open to the sky. There are
+many such ruins famous in Europe, but of this one I had never even
+heard. I went lonely under the evening and looked at its main gate and
+saw on it a moulded escutcheon, carved, and the motto in French,
+"Henceforward," which word made me think a great deal, but resolved no
+problem in my mind.
+
+I went on again westward as the darkness fell and saw what I had not
+seen before, though my reading had told me of its existence, a long line
+of trees marking a ridge on the horizon, which line was the border of
+that ancient road the Roman soldiers built leading from the west into
+Amiens. "Along that road," thought I, "St. Martin rode before he became
+a monk, and while he was yet a soldier and was serving under Julian the
+Apostate. Along that road he came to the west gate of Amiens and there
+cut his cloak in two and gave the half of it to a beggar."
+
+The memory of St. Martin's deed entertained me for some miles of my way,
+and I remembered how, when I was a child, it had seemed to me ridiculous
+to cut your coat in two whether for a beggar or for anybody else. Not
+that I thought charity ridiculous--God forbid!--but that a coat seemed
+to me a thing you could not cut in two with any profit to the user of
+either half. You might cut it in latitude and turn it into an Eton
+jacket and a kilt, neither of much use to a Gallo-Roman beggar. Or you
+might cut it in meridian and leave but one sleeve: mere folly.
+
+Considering these things, I went on over the rolling plateau. I saw a
+great owl flying before me against the sky, different from the owls of
+home. I saw Jupiter shining above a cloud and Venus shining below one.
+The long light lingered in the north above the English sea. At last I
+came quite unexpectedly upon that delight and plaything of the French: a
+light railway, or steam tram such as that people build in great
+profusion to link up their villages and their streams. The road where I
+came upon it made a level crossing, and there was a hut there, and a
+woman living in it who kept the level crossing and warned the
+passers-by. She told me no more trains, or rather little trams, would
+pass that night, but that three miles further on I should come to a
+place called "The Mills of the Vidame."
+
+Now the name "Vidame" reminded me that a "Vidame" was the lay protector
+of a Cathedral Chapter in feudal times, so the name gave me a renewed
+pleasure.
+
+But it was now near midnight, and when I came to this village I
+remembered how in similar night walks I had sometimes been refused
+lodging. When I got among the few houses all was dark. I found, however,
+in the darkness two young men, each bearing an enormous curled trumpet
+of the kind which the French call _cors de chasse_, that is,
+hunting horns, so I asked them where the inn was. They took me to it and
+woke up the hostess, who received us with oaths. This she did lest the
+young men with hunting horns should demand a commission. Her heart,
+however, was better than her mouth, and she put me up, but she charged
+me tenpence for my room, counting coffee in the morning, which was, I am
+sure, more than her usual rate.
+
+Next day I took the little steam tram away from the place and went on
+vaguely whither it should please God to take me, until the plateau
+changed and the light railway fell into a charming valley, and, seeing a
+town rooted therein, I got out and paid my fare and visited the town. In
+this town I went to church, as it was early morning (you must excuse the
+foible), and, coming out of church, I had an argument with a working man
+upon the matter of religion, in which argument, as I believe, I was the
+victor. I then went on north out of this town and came into a wood of
+enormous size. It was miles and miles across, and the trees were higher
+than anything I have seen outside of California. It was an enchanted
+wood. The sun shone down through a hundred feet of silence by little
+rounds between the leaves, and there was silence everywhere. In this
+wood I sojourned all day long, making slowly westward, till, in the very
+midst of it, I found a troubled man. He was a man of middle age, short,
+intelligent, fat, and weary. He said to me:
+
+"Have you noticed any special mark upon the trees? A white mark of the
+number 90?"
+
+"No," said I. "Are there any wild boars in this forest?"
+
+"Yes," he answered, "a few, but not of use. I am looking for trees
+marked in white with the number 90. I have paid a price for them, and I
+cannot find them."
+
+I saluted him and went on my way. At last I came to an open clearing,
+where there was a town, and in the town I found a very delightful inn,
+where they would cook anything one felt inclined for, within reason, and
+charged one very moderately indeed. I have retained its name.
+
+By this time I was completely lost, and in the heart of Fairyland, when
+suddenly I remembered that everyone that strikes root in Fairyland loses
+something, at the least his love and at the worst his soul, and that it
+is a perilous business to linger there, so I asked them in that hotel
+how they worked it when they wanted to go west into the great towns.
+They put me into an omnibus, which charged me fourpence for a journey of
+some two miles. It took me, as Heaven ordained, to a common great
+railway, and that common great railway took me through the night to the
+town of Dieppe, which I have known since I could speak and before, and
+which was about as much of Fairyland to me as Piccadilly or Monday
+morning.
+
+Thus ended those two days, in which I had touched again the unknown
+places--and all that heaven was but two days, and cost me not fifty
+shillings.
+
+Excuse the folly of this.
+
+
+
+
+The Tide
+
+
+I wish I had been one of those men who first sailed beyond the Pillars
+of Hercules and first saw, as they edged northward along a barbarian
+shore, the slow swinging of the sea. How much, I wonder, did they think
+themselves enlarged? How much did they know that all the civilization
+behind them, the very ancient world of the Mediterranean, was something
+protected and enclosed from which they had escaped into an outer world?
+And how much did they feel that here they were now physically caught by
+the moving tides that bore them in the whole movement of things?
+
+For the tide is of that kind; and the movement of the sea four times
+daily back and forth is a consequence, a reflection, and a part of the
+ceaseless pulse and rhythm which animates all things made and which
+links what seems not living to what certainly lives and feels and has
+power over all movement of its own. The circuits of the planets stretch
+and then recede. Their ellipses elongate and flatten again to the
+semblance of circles. The Poles slowly nod once every many thousand
+years, there is a libration to the moon; and in all this vast harmonious
+process of come and go the units of it twirl and spin, and, as they
+spin, run more gravely in ordered procession round their central star:
+that star moves also to a beat, and all the stars of heaven move each in
+times of its own as well, and their movement is one thing altogether.
+Whoever should receive the mighty business moving in one ear would get
+the music of it in a perfect series of chords, superimposed the one upon
+the other, but not a tremble of them out of tune.
+
+The great scheme is not infinite, for were it infinite such rhythms
+could not be. It was made, and it moves in order to the scheme of its
+making without caprice, not wayward anywhere, but in and out and back
+and forth as to a figure set for it. It must be so, or these exact
+arrangements could not be.
+
+Now with this regulated breathing and expiration, playing itself out in
+a million ways and co-extensive with the universe of things, the tides
+keep time, and they alone of earthly things bring its actual force to
+our physical perception, to our daily life. We see the sea in movement
+and power before us heaving up whatever it may bear, and we feel in an
+immediate way its strong backward sagging when the rocks appear above it
+as it falls. We have our hand on the throb of the current turning in a
+salting river inland between green hills; we are borne upon it bodily as
+we sail, its movement kicks the tiller in our grasp, and the strength
+beneath us and around us, the rush and the compulsion of the stream, its
+silence and as it were its purpose, all represent to us, immediately and
+here, that immeasurable to and fro which rules the skies.
+
+When the Roman soldiers came marching northward with Caesar and first
+saw the shores of ocean: when, after that occupation of Gaul which has
+changed the world, they first mounted guard upon the quays of the Itian
+port under Gris-Nez, or the rocky inlets of the Veneti by St. Malo and
+the Breton reefs, they were appalled to see what for centuries chance
+traders and the few curious travellers, the men of Marseilles and of the
+islands, had seen before them. They saw in numbers and in a corporate
+way what hitherto individuals alone had seen; they saw the sea like a
+living thing, advancing and retreating in an ordered dance, alive with
+deep sighs and intakes, and ceaselessly proceeding about a work and a
+doing which seemed to be the very visible action of an unchanging will
+still pleased with calculated change. It was the presence of the Roman
+army upon the shores of the Channel which brought the Tide into the
+general conscience of Europe, and that experience, I think, was among
+the greatest, perhaps the greatest, of those new things which rushed
+upon the mind of the Empire when it launched itself by the occupation of
+Gaul.
+
+The tide, when it is mentioned in brief historical records of times long
+since, suddenly strikes one with vividness and with familiarity, so that
+the past is introduced at once, presented to us physically, and obtruded
+against our modern senses alive. I know of no other physical thing
+mentioned in this fashion, in chronicle or biography, which has so
+powerful an effect to restore the reality of a dead century.
+
+The Venerable Bede is speaking in one place of Southampton Water, in his
+ecclesiastical history, or, rather, of the Isle of Wight, whence those
+two Princes were baptized and died under Cadwalla. As the historian
+speaks of the place he says:
+
+"In this sea" (which is the Solent) "comes a double tide out of the seas
+which spring from the infinite ocean of the Arctic surrounding all
+Britain."
+
+And he tells us how these double tides rush together and fight together,
+sweeping as they do round either side of the island by the Needles and
+by Spithead into the land-locked sheet within.
+
+Now that passage in Bede's fourth book is more real to me than anything
+in all his chronicle, for in Southampton Water to-day the living thing
+which we still note as we sail is the double tide. You take a falling
+tide at the head of the water, near Southampton Town, and if you are not
+quick with your business it is checked in two hours and you meet a
+strange flood, the second flood, before you have rounded Calshott
+Castle.
+
+Then there is a Charter of Newcastle. Or, rather, the inviolable Customs
+of that town, very old, drawn up nearly eight hundred years ago, but
+beginning from far earlier; and in these customs you find written:
+
+"If a plea shall arise between a burgess and a merchant it must be
+determined before the third flowing of the sea"--that is, within three
+tides; a wise provision! For thus the merchant would not miss the last
+tide of the day after the quarrel. How living it is, a phrase of that
+sort coming in the midst of those other phrases!
+
+All the rest, worse luck, has gone. Burgage-tenure, and the economic
+independence of the humble, and the busy, healthy life of men working to
+enrich themselves, not others, and that corporate association which was
+the blood of the Middle Ages, and the power of popular opinion, and, in
+general, freedom. But out of all these things that have perished, the
+tide remains, and in the eighteen clauses of the Customs, the tidal
+clause alone stands fresh and still has meaning. The capital, great
+clinching clause by which men owned their own land within the town has
+gone utterly and altogether. The modern workman on the Tyne would not
+understand you perhaps, to whom in that very place you should say, "Many
+centuries ago the men that came before you here, your fathers, were not
+working precariously at a wage, or paying rent to others, but living
+under their own roofs and working for themselves." There is only one
+passage in the document that all could understand in Newcastle
+to-day--the very few rich who are hardly secure, the myriads of poor who
+are not secure at all--and that passage is the passage which talks of
+the third tide; for even to-day there is some good we have left
+undestroyed and the sea still ebbs and flows.
+
+This little note of the Newcastle men, and of the flowing and the ebbing
+of their sea, is to be found, you say, in the archives of England? Not
+at all! It is to be found in the Acts of the Parliament of Scotland--at
+least, so my book assures me, but why I do not know. Perhaps of the
+times when between Tyne and Tees, men looked northward and of the times
+when they looked southward (for they alternately did one and the other
+during many hundreds of years) those times when they looked northward
+seemed the more natural to them. Anyhow, the reference is to the Acts of
+the Parliament of Scotland, and that is the end of it.
+
+
+
+
+On a Great Wind
+
+
+It is an old dispute among men, or rather a dispute as old as mankind,
+whether Will be a cause of things or no; nor is there anything novel in
+those moderns who affirm that Will is nothing to the matter, save their
+ignorant belief that their affirmation is new.
+
+The intelligent process whereby I know that Will not seems but is, and
+can alone be truly and ultimately a cause, is fed with stuff and
+strengthens sacramentally as it were, whenever I meet, and am made the
+companion of, a great wind.
+
+It is not that this lively creature of God is indeed perfected with a
+soul; this it would be superstition to believe. It has no more a person
+than any other of its material fellows, but in its vagary of way, in the
+largeness of its apparent freedom, in its rush of purpose, it seems to
+mirror the action of mighty spirit. When a great wind comes roaring over
+the eastern flats towards the North Sea, driving over the Fens and the
+Wringland, it is like something of this island that must go out and
+wrestle with the water, or play with it in a game or a battle; and when,
+upon the western shores, the clouds come bowling up from the horizon,
+messengers, outriders, or comrades of a gale, it is something of the sea
+determined to possess the land. The rising and falling of such power,
+its hesitations, its renewed violence, its fatigue and final repose--all
+these are symbols of a mind; but more than all the rest, its exultation!
+It is the shouting and the hurrahing of the wind that suits a man.
+
+Note you, we have not many friends. The older we grow and the better we
+can sift mankind, the fewer friends we count, although man lives by
+friendship. But a great wind is every man's friend, and its strength is
+the strength of good-fellowship; and even doing battle with it is
+something worthy and well chosen. If there is cruelty in the sea, and
+terror in high places, and malice lurking in profound darkness, there is
+no one of these qualities in the wind, but only power. Here is strength
+too full for such negations as cruelty, as malice, or as fear; and that
+strength in a solemn manner proves and tests health in our own souls.
+For with terror (of the sort I mean--terror of the abyss or panic at
+remembered pain, and in general, a losing grip of the succours of the
+mind), and with malice, and with cruelty, and with all the forms of that
+Evil which lies in wait for men, there is the savour of disease. It is
+an error to think of such things as power set up in equality against
+justice and right living. We were not made for them, but rather for
+influences large and soundly poised; we are not subject to them but to
+other powers that can always enliven and relieve. It is health in us, I
+say, to be full of heartiness and of the joy of the world, and of
+whether we have such health our comfort in a great wind is a good test
+indeed. No man spends his day upon the mountains when the wind is out,
+riding against it or pushing forward on foot through the gale, but at
+the end of his day feels that he has had a great host about him. It is
+as though he had experienced armies. The days of high winds are days of
+innumerable sounds, innumerable in variation of tone and of intensity,
+playing upon and awakening innumerable powers in man. And the days of
+high wind are days in which a physical compulsion has been about us and
+we have met pressure and blows, resisted and turned them; it enlivens us
+with the simulacrum of war by which nations live, and in the just
+pursuit of which men in companionship are at their noblest.
+
+It is pretended sometimes (less often perhaps now than a dozen years
+ago) that certain ancient pursuits congenial to man will be lost to him
+under his new necessities; thus men sometimes talk foolishly of horses
+being no longer ridden, houses no longer built of wholesome wood and
+stone, but of metal; meat no more roasted, but only baked; and even of
+stomachs grown too weak for wine. There is a fashion of saying these
+things, and much other nastiness. Such talk is (thank God!) mere folly;
+for man will always at last tend to his end, which is happiness, and he
+will remember again to do all those things which serve that end. So it
+is with the uses of the wind, and especially the, using of the wind with
+sails.
+
+No man has known the wind by any of its names who has not sailed his own
+boat and felt life in the tiller. Then it is that a man has most to do
+with the wind, plays with it, coaxes or refuses it, is wary of it all
+along; yields when he must yield, but comes up and pits himself again
+against its violence; trains it, harnesses it, calls it if it fails him,
+denounces it if it will try to be too strong, and in every manner
+conceivable handles this glorious playmate.
+
+As for those who say that men did but use the wind as an instrument for
+crossing the sea, and that sails were mere machines to them, either they
+have never sailed or they were quite unworthy of sailing. It is not an
+accident that the tall ships of every age of varying fashions so
+arrested human sight and seemed so splendid. The whole of man went into
+their creation, and they expressed him very well; his cunning, and his
+mastery, and his adventurous heart. For the wind is in nothing more
+capitally our friend than in this, that it has been, since men were men,
+their ally in the seeking of the unknown and in their divine thirst for
+travel which, in its several aspects--pilgrimage, conquest, discovery,
+and, in general, enlargement--is one prime way whereby man fills himself
+with being.
+
+I love to think of those Norwegian men who set out eagerly before the
+north-east wind when it came down from their mountains in the month of
+March like a god of great stature to impel them to the West. They pushed
+their Long Keels out upon the rollers, grinding the shingle of the beach
+at the fjord-head. They ran down the calm narrows, they breasted and
+they met the open sea. Then for days and days they drove under this
+master of theirs and high friend, having the wind for a sort of captain,
+and looking always out to the sea line to find what they could find. It
+was the springtime; and men feel the spring upon the sea even more
+surely than they feel it upon the land. They were men whose eyes, pale
+with the foam, watched for a landfall, that unmistakable good sight
+which the wind brings us to, the cloud that does not change and that
+comes after the long emptiness of sea days like a vision after the
+sameness of our common lives. To them the land they so discovered was
+wholly new.
+
+We have no cause to regret the youth of the world, if indeed the world
+were ever young. When we imagine in our cities that the wind no longer
+calls us to such things, it is only our reading that blinds us, and the
+picture of satiety which our reading breeds is wholly false. Any man
+to-day may go out and take his pleasure with the wind upon the high
+seas. He also will make his landfalls to-day, or in a thousand years;
+and the sight is always the same, and the appetite for such discoveries
+is wholly satisfied even though he be only sailing, as I have sailed,
+over seas that he has known from childhood, and come upon an island far
+away, mapped and well known, and visited for the hundredth time.
+
+
+
+
+The Letter
+
+
+If you ask me why it is now three weeks since I received your letter
+and why it is only today that I answer it, I must tell you the truth
+lest further things I may have to tell you should not be worthy of your
+dignity or of mine. It was because at first I dared not, then later I
+reasoned with myself, and so bred delay, and at last took refuge in more
+delay. I will offer no excuse: I will not tell you that I suffered
+illness, or that some accident of war had taken me away from this old
+house, or that I have but just returned from a journey to my hill and my
+view over the Plain and the great River.
+
+Your messenger I have kept, and I have entertained him well. I looked at
+him a little narrowly at his first coming, thinking perhaps he might be
+a gentleman of yours, but I soon found that he was not such, and that he
+bore no disguise, but was a plain rider of your household. I put him in
+good quarters by the Hunting Stables. He has had nothing to do but to
+await my resolution, which is now at last taken, and which you receive
+in this.
+
+But how shall I begin, or how express to you what not distance but a
+slow and bitter conclusion of the mind has done?
+
+I shall not return to Meudon. I shall not see the woods, the summer
+woods turning to autumn, nor follow the hunt, nor take pleasure again in
+what is still the best of Europe at Versailles. And now that I have said
+it, you must read it so; for I am unalterably determined. Believe me, it
+is something much more deep than courtesy which compels me to give you
+my reasons for this final and irrevocable doom.
+
+We were children together. Though we leant so lightly in our
+conversations of this spring upon all we knew in common, I know your age
+and all your strong early experience--and you know mine. Your mother
+will recall that day's riding when I came back from my first leave and
+you were home, not, I think, for good, from the convent. A fixed
+domestic habit blinded her, so that she could then still see in us no
+more than two children; yet I was proud of my sword, and had it on, and
+you that day were proud of a beauty which could no longer be hidden even
+from yourself; I would then have sacrificed, and would now, all I had or
+was or had or am to have made that beauty immortal.
+
+I say, you remember that day's riding, and how after it the world was
+changed for you and me, and how that same evening the elders saw that it
+was changed.
+
+You will remember that for two years we were not allowed to meet again.
+When the two years were passed we met indeed by a mere accident of that
+rich and tedious life wherein we were both now engaged. I was returned
+from leave before Tournay; you had heard, I think, a false report that I
+had been wounded in the dreadful business at Fontenoy (which to remember
+even now horrifies me a little). I had heard and knew which of the great
+names you now bore by marriage. The next day it was your husband who
+rode with me to Marly. I liked him well enough. I have grown to like him
+better. He is an honest man, though I confess his philosophers weary me.
+When I say "an honest man" I am giving the highest praise I know.
+
+My dear, that was sixteen years ago.
+
+You may not even now understand, so engrossing is the toilsome and
+excited ritual of that rich world at Versailles, how blest you are: your
+children are growing round you: your daughters are beginning to reveal
+your own beauty, and your sons will show in these next years immediately
+before us that temper which in you was a spirit and a height of being,
+and in them, men, will show as plain courage. During that long space of
+years your house has remained well ordered (it was your husband's
+doing). His great fortune and yours have jointly increased: if I may
+tell you so, it is a pleasure to all who understand fitness to know that
+this is so, and that your lineage and his will hold so great a place in
+the State.
+
+As you review those sixteen years you may, if you will--I trust you will
+not--recall those occasions when I saw the woods of Meudon and mixed by
+chance with your world, and when we renewed the rides which had ended
+our childhood. As for me I have not to recall those things. They are,
+alas, myself, and beyond them there is nothing that I can call a memory
+or a being at all. Nevertheless, as I have told you, I shall not come to
+Meudon: I shall not hear again the delightful voices of those many
+friends (now in mid-life as am I) who are my equals at Versailles. I
+shall not see your face.
+
+I did not take service with the Empire from any pique or folly, but from
+a necessity for adventure and for the refounding of my house. It might
+have chanced that I should marry: the land demanded an heir. My
+impoverishment weighed upon me like an ill deed, for all this belt of
+land is dependent upon the old house, which I can with such difficulty
+retain and from which I write to-day. I spent all those years in the
+service of the Empire (and even of Russia) from no uncertain temper and
+from no imaginary quarrel. It is so common or so necessary for men and
+women to misjudge each other that I believe you thought me wayward, or
+at least unstable. If you did so you did me a wrong. Those two good
+seasons when we met again, and this last of but a month ago, were not
+accidents or fitful recoveries. They were all I possessed in my life and
+all that will perish with me when I die.
+
+But now, to tell you the very core of my decision, it is this: The years
+that pass carry with them an increasing weight at once sombre and
+majestic. There are things belonging to youth which habit continues
+strangely longer than the season to which they properly belong: if, when
+we discover them to be too prolonged as cling to their survival, why,
+then, we eat dust. So long as we possess the illusion and so long as the
+dearest things of youth maintain unchanged, in one chamber of our life
+at least, our twentieth year, so long all is well. But there is a cold
+river which we must pass in our advance towards nothingness and age. In
+the passage of that stream we change: and you and I have passed it.
+There is no more endurance in that young mood of ours than in any other
+human thing. One always wakes from it at last. One sees what it is. The
+soul sees and counts with hard eyes the price at which a continuance of
+such high dreams must be purchased, and the heart has a prevision of the
+evil that the happy cheat will work as maturity is reached by each of
+us, and as each of us fully takes on the burden of the world.
+
+Therefore I must not return.
+
+Foolishly and without thinking of real things, acting as though indeed
+that life of dream and of illusion were still possible to me, I
+yesterday cut with great care a rose, one from the many that have now
+grown almost wild upon the great wall overlooking the Danube. Then ... I
+could not but smile to myself when I remembered how by the time that
+rose should have reached you every petal would be wasted and fallen in
+the long week's ride. There is a fixed term of life for roses also as
+for men. I do not cite this to you by way of parable. I have no heart
+for tricks of the pen to-night; but the two images came together, and
+you will understand. If I do not return, it is for the same reason that
+I could not send the rose.
+
+
+
+
+The Regret
+
+
+Everybody knows, I suppose, that kind of landscape in which hills seem
+to lie in a regular manner, fold on fold, one range behind the other,
+until, at last, behind them all some higher and grander range dominates
+and frames the whole.
+
+The infinite variety of light and air and accident of soil provide all
+men save those who live in the great plains with examples of this sort.
+The traveller in the dry air of California or of Spain, watching great
+distances from the heights, will recollect such landscapes all his life.
+They were the reward of his long ascents and the visions which attended
+his effort as he climbed up to the ridge of his horizon. Such a
+landscape does a man see from the Western edges of the Guadarrama,
+looking eastward and south toward the very distant hills that guard
+Toledo and the Gulf of the Tagus. Such a landscape does a man see at
+sunrise from the highest of the Cevennes looking right eastward to the
+dawn as it comes up in the pure and cold air beyond the Alps, and shows
+you the falling of the foothills to the Rhone. And by such a landscape
+is a man gladdened when upon the escarpments of the Tuolumne he turns
+back and looks westward over the plain towards the vast range.
+
+The experience of such a sight is one peculiar in travel, or, for that
+matter, if a man is lucky enough to enjoy it at home, insistent and
+reiterated upon the mind of the home-dwelling man. Such a landscape, for
+instance, makes a man praise God if his house is upon the height of
+Mendip, and he can look over falling hills right over the Vale of Severn
+toward the ridge above ridge of the Welsh solemnities beyond, until the
+straight line and high of the Black Mountains ends his view.
+
+It is the character of these landscapes to suggest at once a vastness,
+diversity, and seclusion. When a man comes upon them unexpectedly he can
+forget the perpetual toil of men and imagine that those who dwell below
+in the near side before him are exempt from the necessities of this
+world. When such a landscape is part of a man's dwelling-place, though
+he well knows that the painful life of men within those hills is the
+same hard business that it is throughout the world, yet his knowledge is
+modified and comforted by the permanent glory of the thing he sees.
+
+The distant and high range that bounds his view makes a sort of veiling,
+cutting it off and guarding it from whatever may be beyond. The
+succession of lower ranges suggests secluded valleys, and the reiterated
+woods, distant and more distant, convey an impression of fertility more
+powerful than that of corn in harvest upon the lowlands.
+
+Sometimes it is a whole province that is thus grasped by the eye,
+sometimes in the summer haze but a few miles; always this scenery
+inspires the onlooker with a sense of completion and of repose, and at
+the same time, I think, with worship and with awe.
+
+Now one such group of valleys there was, hill above hill, forest above
+forest, and beyond it a great noble range, unwooded and high against
+heaven, guarding it, which I for my part knew when first I knew anything
+of this world. There is a high place under fir trees, a place of sand
+and bracken, in South England whence such a view was always present to
+eye in childhood and "There," said I to myself (even in childhood) "a
+man should make his habitation." In those valleys is the proper off-set
+for man.
+
+And so there was.
+
+It was a little place which had grown up as my county grows. The house
+throwing out arms and layers. One room was panelled in the oak of the
+seventeenth century--but that had been a novelty in its time, for the
+walls upon which the panels stood were of the late fifteenth, oak and
+brick intermingled. Another room was large and light built in the manner
+of one hundred and fifty years ago, which people call Georgian. It had
+been thrown out south (which is quite against our older custom, for our
+older houses looked east and west to take all the sun and to present a
+corner to the south-west and the storms. So they stand still). It had
+round it a solid cornice which the modern men of the towns would have
+called ugly, but there was ancestry in it. Then, further on this house
+had modern roominess stretching in one new wing after another; and it
+had a great steading and there was a copse and some six acres of land.
+Over a deep ravine looked the little town that was the mother of the
+place, and altogether it was enclosed, silent, and secure.
+
+"The fish that misses the hook regrets the worm." If this is not a
+Chinese proverb it ought to be. That little farm and steading and those
+six acres, that ravine, those trees, that aspect of the little mothering
+town; the wooded hills fold above fold, the noble range beyond, will not
+be mine.
+
+For all I know, some man quite unacquainted with that land took them
+grumbling for a debt; or again, for all I know, they may have been
+bought by a blind man who could not see the hills, or by some man who,
+seeing them, perpetually regretted the flat marshes of the fens. One
+day, up high on Egdean Side, not thinking of such things, through a gap
+in the trees I saw again after so many years, set one behind the other,
+the forests wave upon wave, the summer heat, the high, bare range
+guarding all, and in the midst of that landscape, set like a toy, the
+little Sabine Farm.
+
+Then I said to it, "Continue. Go and serve whom you will, my little
+Sabine Farm. You were not mine because you would not be, and you are not
+mine at all to-day. You will regret it perhaps, and perhaps you will
+not. There was verse in you, perhaps, or prose, or--infinitely
+more!--contentment for a man (for all I know). But you refused. You lost
+your chance. Goodbye." And with that I went on into the wood and beyond
+the gap, and saw the sight no more.
+
+It was ten years since I had seen it last. It may be ten years before I
+see it again, or it may be for ever. But as I went through the woods
+saying to myself:
+
+"You lost your chance, my little Sabine Farm, you lost your chance!"
+another part of me at once replied:
+
+"Ah! And so did _you_!"
+
+Then, by way of riposte, I answered in my mind:
+
+"Not at all, for the chance I never had, but what I lost was my desire."
+
+"No, not your desire," said the voice to me within, "but the fulfilment
+of it, in which you would have lost your desire." And when that reply
+came I naturally turned as all men do on hearing such interior replies,
+to a general consideration of regret, and was prepared, if any honest
+publisher should have come whistling through that wood, with an offer
+proper to the occasion, namely, to produce no less than five volumes on
+the Nature of Regret, its mortal sting, its bitter-sweetness, its power
+to keep alive in man the pure passions of the soul, its hints at
+immortality, its memory of Heaven. But the wood was empty of publishers.
+The offer did not come. The moment was lost. The five volumes will
+hardly now be written. In place of them I offer poor this, which you may
+take or leave. But I beg leave before I end to cite certain words very
+nobly attached to that great inn "The Griffin," which has its foundation
+set far off in another place, in the town of March, in the Fen Land:
+
+"England my desire, what have you not refused?"
+
+
+
+
+The End Of The World
+
+
+One day I met a man who was sitting quite silent near Whitney, in the
+Thames Valley, in a very large, long, low inn that stands in those
+parts, or at least stood then, for whether it stands now or not depends
+upon the Fussyites, whose business it is to Fuss, and in their Fussing
+to disturb mankind.
+
+He had nothing to say for himself at all, and he looked not gloomy but
+sad. He was tall and thin, with high cheekbones. His face was the colour
+of leather that has been some time in the weather, and he despised us
+altogether: he would not say a word to us, until one of the company
+said, rising from his meat and drink: "Very well, there's a thing we
+shall never know till the end of the world" (he was talking about some
+discussion or other which the young men had been holding together).
+"There's a thing we shall never know till the end of the world--and
+about that nobody knows!"
+
+"You will pardon me," said the tall, thin, and elderly man with a face
+like leather that has been exposed to the weather, "I know about the End
+of the World, for I have been there."
+
+This was so interesting that we all sat down again to listen.
+
+"I wasn't talking of place, but of time," murmured the young man whom
+the stranger had answered.
+
+"I cannot help that," said the stranger decisively; "the End of the
+World is the End of the World, and whether you are talking of space or
+of time it does not matter, for when you have got to the end you have
+got to the end, as may be proved in several ways."
+
+"How did you get to it?" said one of our companions.
+
+"That is very simply answered," said the elder man; "you get to it by
+walking straight in front of you."
+
+"Anyone could do that," said the other.
+
+"Anyone could," said the elder man, "but nobody does. I did.... When I
+was quite a boy in my father's parsonage (for my father was a parson),
+having heard so much about the End of the World and seeing that people's
+descriptions of it differed so much and that everybody was quite sure of
+his own, I used to take my father's friends and guests aside privately,
+for I was afraid to take my father himself, and I used to ask them how
+they knew what the End of the World was really like, and whether they
+had seen it. Some laughed, others were silent, and others were angry;
+but no one gave me any information. At last I decided (and it was very
+wise of me) that the only way to find out a thing of that sort was to
+find it out for one's self, and not to go by hearsay, so I determined to
+go straight on without stopping until I got to the End of the World."
+
+"Which way did you walk?" said yet another of my companions.
+
+"Young man," said the stranger, with solemnity, "I walked westward
+toward the setting sun ... I walked and I walked and I walked, day after
+day and year after year. Whenever I came to the seacoast I would take
+work on board a ship--and remember it is always easy to get work if you
+will take the wages that are offered, and always difficult to get it if
+you will not. Well, then, I went in this way through all known lands and
+over all known seas, until at last I came to the shore of a sea beyond
+which (so the people told me who lived there) there was no further
+shore. 'I cannot help that,' said I; 'I have not yet come to the End of
+the World, and it is common sense that such a lot of water must have
+something at the back of it to hold it up; besides which there is a
+strong wind blowing out of the gates of the west and from the sunset.
+Now that wind must rise somewhere, and I am going on to see where it
+rises.' One of them was kind enough to lend me a boat with oars; I
+thanked him prettily, and then I set out to row toward the End of the
+World, taking with me two or three days' provisions.
+
+"When I had rowed a long time I went asleep, and when I woke up next
+morning I rowed again all day until the second night I went to sleep. On
+the third day I rowed again: a little before sunset on the third day I
+saw before me high hills, all in peaks like a great saw. On the very
+highest of the peaks there were streaks of snow, and at about six
+o'clock in the afternoon I grounded my boat upon that gravelly shore and
+pulled it up upon the shingle, though it was evident either that the
+tide was high or that there was no tide in these silent places.
+
+"I offered up a prayer to the genius of the land, and tied the painter
+of the boat to two great stones, so that no wave reaching it might move
+it, and then I went on inland. When I had gone a little way I saw a
+signpost on which was written, 'To the End of the World One Mile' and
+there was a rough track along which it pointed. I went along this track.
+Everything was completely silent. There were no birds, there was no wind,
+there was nothing in the sky. But one thing I did notice, which was that
+the sun was much larger than it used to be, and that as I went along this
+last mile or so it seemed to get larger still--but that may have been my
+imagination, for I must tell you my imagination is pretty strong.
+
+"Well then, gentlemen, when I had gone a mile or so I saw another
+signpost, on which there was a large board marked 'Danger,' and a
+hundred yards beyond the track went between two great dark rocks--and
+there I was! The road had stopped short; it was broken off, jagged, just
+like a torn bit of paper ... and there was the End of the World."
+
+"How do you mean?" said one of the younger men in an awed tone.
+
+"What I say," said the stranger decidedly. "I had come to the end; there
+was nothing beyond. You looked down over a precipice where there was
+moss and steep grass, and on the ledges trees far below, and then more
+precipice, and then--oh, miles below--a few more trees or so clinging to
+the steep, then more precipice, and then darkness; and far away before
+me was the whole expanse of sky; and in the midst of it I saw the broad
+red sun setting into the brume; it was not yet dark enough to see the
+stars, and there was no moon in the sky.
+
+"I assure you it was a very wonderful sight, and I was awed though I was
+not afraid. And how glad I was to find that the world had an edge to it,
+and that all that talk about its being round was nonsense!
+
+"When the sun was set it grew dark, and I returned to find my boat; but
+I must have missed my way, for the track became broader and better, and
+at last I came to a gate of a human sort, with an initial on it, which
+showed that it had been put up by some landlord. It was an open gate,
+and after I had entered it I came upon a broad highway, beautifully
+metalled, and when I had gone along this for less than half a mile I
+came to this inn where I am now sitting. That was a week ago, and I have
+been here ever since. They took me in kindly enough, but they would not
+believe what I had to tell them about the End of the World. It is a
+great pity, gentlemen, for that wonderful sight is to be discovered
+somewhere hereabouts, and a mere accident of my losing my way in the
+darkness makes it difficult for me to find it by daylight."
+
+Having said all this, the stranger was silent.
+
+One of my companions whispered to me that the old man must be mad. The
+stranger overheard him, and said with a thin smile:
+
+"Oh, I know all about that; several have suggested it already; but it is
+no answer, for if I did not come from the End of the World, where did I
+come from? No one has seen me hereabouts during the last few days until
+I came to this inn. And all the first part of my journey I can very
+easily explain, for I have notes of it, and it lasted for years. It is
+only this last part which seems to me so difficult.... I tell you I lost
+my way, and when a man has lost his way at night he can never find it
+again in the daytime."
+
+As he spoke he took a little piece of folded paper, rather dirty, out of
+his inner pocket, on which a rough sketch-map was drawn, and he began
+touching it with a stump of pencil that he held in his hand. His eyes
+seemed to grow dimmer as he did so, and he leaned his head upon his
+hand. "I think I have got hold of it, gentlemen," he said.
+
+We did not get up or go too near him, for we thought he might be
+dangerous.
+
+"I think, gentlemen," he repeated in a more mumbling and lower and less
+certain voice, "I think I have got hold of it. I go backwards again
+through the gate to the right, just as then I went to the left, and
+after that it cannot be very far, for I see those two rocks in front of
+me. Besides which," he muttered less and less coherently, "I ought to
+have remembered of course those very high and silent hills with nothing
+living upon them...." And he added, half asleep, as his head dropped
+upon his hand, "It was westward.... I had forgotten that."
+
+Having so spoken, he seemed to fall asleep altogether, and his head fell
+back upon the corner of the wainscoting behind the bench where he sat.
+He made no noise in breathing as he slept.
+
+It was the first time that any of us young men had come across this
+fairly common sight of a man who took things within for things without;
+some of us were frightened, and all of us wished to be rid of the place
+and to get away. As we went out we told the landlord nothing either of
+the old fellow's vagaries or of his sleep, but we went out and reached
+the town of Whitney, and when we had stayed there a couple of hours or
+so we went out southward to the station and waited there for the train
+which should take us back to Oxford.
+
+While we were waiting there in the station two farmers were talking
+together. One said to the other:
+
+"Ar, if he'd paid them they wouldn't have minded so much."
+
+To which the other answered:
+
+"Ar, 'tisn't only the paying: it's always an awkward thing when a man
+dies in your house, specially if it's licensed. My wife's brother was
+caught that way."
+
+Then as they went on talking we found that they were talking of the man
+in the inn, who it seems had not slept very long, but was dead, and had
+died in that same room. It was a shocking thing to hear. The first
+farmer said to the second in the railway carriage when we had all got
+in:
+
+"Where'd he come from?"
+
+The other, who was an old man, grinned and said:
+
+"Where we all come from, I suppose, and where we all go to." He touched
+his forehead with his hand. "He said he'd come from the End of the
+World."
+
+"Ar," said the other gloomily in answer, "like enough!" And after that
+they talked no more about the matter.
+
+
+
+
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+Title: First and Last
+
+Author: H. Belloc
+
+Release Date: January, 2005 [EBook #7352]
+[This file was first posted on April 19, 2003]
+[Most recently updated May 3, 2003]
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+
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+
+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, FIRST AND LAST ***
+
+
+
+
+Tonya Allen, Eric Eldred, Charles Franks, and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team
+
+
+
+</PRE>
+
+<h2>FIRST AND LAST</h2>
+
+<h3>BY</h3>
+
+<h2>H. BELLOC</h2>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<p>
+<b>CONTENTS</b>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#weigh">ON WEIGHING ANCHOR</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#reveillon">THE REVEILLON</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#cheeses">ON CHEESES</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#captain">THE CAPTAIN OF INDUSTRY</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#inventor">THE INVENTOR</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#views">THE VIEWS OF ENGLAND</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#lunatic">THE LUNATIC</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#inheritance">THE INHERITANCE OF HUMOUR</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#old">THE OLD GENTLEMAN'S OPINIONS</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#historical">ON HISTORICAL EVIDENCE</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#absence">THE ABSENCE OF THE PAST</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#st">ST. PATRICK</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#lost">THE LOST THINGS</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#reading">ON THE READING OF HISTORY</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#victory">THE VICTORY</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#reality">REALITY</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#decline">ON THE DECLINE OF THE BOOK</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#jose">JOS MARIA DE HEREDIA</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#normandy">NORMANDY AND THE NORMANS</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#oldt">THE OLD THINGS</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#battle">THE BATTLE OF HASTINGS</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#roman">THE ROMAN ROADS IN PICARDY</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#reward">THE REWARD OF LETTERS</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#eye">THE EYE-OPENERS</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#public">THE PUBLIC</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#entries">ON ENTRIES</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#companions">COMPANIONS OF TRAVEL</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#sources">ON THE SOURCES OF RIVERS</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#error">ON ERROR</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#great">THE GREAT SIGHT</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#declines">THE DECLINE OF A STATE</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#past">ON PAST GREATNESS</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#mr">MR. THE DUKE: THE MAN OF MALPLAQUET</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#game">THE GAME OF CARDS</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#king">"KING LEAR"</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#excursion">THE EXCURSION</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#tide">THE TIDE</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#greatw">ON A GREAT WIND</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#letter">THE LETTER</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#regret">THE REGRET</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+<a href="#end">THE END OF THE WORLD</a>
+</p>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+<h2>FIRST AND LAST</h2>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+
+<h3><a name="weigh">On Weighing Anchor</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+Personally I should call it "Getting It up," but I have always seen it
+in print called "weighing anchor"--and if it is in print one must bow to
+it. It does weigh.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There are many ways of doing it. The best, like all good things, has
+gone for ever, and this best way was for a thing called a capstan to
+have sticking out from it, movable, and fitted into its upper rim, other
+things called capstan--bars. These, men would push singing a song, while
+on the top of the capstan sat a man playing the fiddle, or the flute, or
+some other instrument of music. You and I have seen it in pictures. Our
+sons will say that they wish they had seen it in pictures. Our sons'
+sons will say it is all a lie and was never in anything but the
+pictures, and they will explain it by some myth or other.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Another way is to take two turns of a rope round a donkey-engine, paying
+in and coiling while the engine clanks. And another way on smaller boats
+is a sort of jack arrangement by which you give little jerks to a
+ratchet and wheel, and at last It looses Its hold. Sometimes (in this
+last way) It will not loose Its hold at all.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then there is a way of which I proudly boast that it is the only way I
+know, which is to go forward and haul at the line until It comes--or
+does not come. If It does not come, you will not be so cowardly or so
+mean as to miss your tide for such a trifle. You will cut the line and
+tie a float on and pray Heaven that into whatever place you run, that
+place will have moorings ready and free.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When a man weighs anchor in a little ship or a large one he does a jolly
+thing! He cuts himself off and he starts for freedom and for the chance
+of things. He pulls the jib a-weather, he leans to her slowly pulling
+round, he sees the wind getting into the mainsail, and he feels that she
+feels the helm. He has her on a slant of the wind, and he makes out
+between the harbour piers. I am supposing, for the sake of good luck,
+that it is not blowing bang down the harbour mouth, nor, for the matter
+of that, bang out of it. I am supposing, for the sake of good luck to
+this venture, that in weighing anchor you have the wind so that you can
+sail with it full and by, or freer still, right past the walls until you
+are well into the tide outside. You may tell me that you are so rich and
+your boat is so big that there have been times when you have anchored in
+the very open, and that all this does not apply to you. Why, then, your
+thoughts do not apply to me nor to the little boat I have in mind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the weighing of anchor and the taking of adventure and of the sea
+there is an exact parallel to anything that any man can do in the
+beginning of any human thing, from his momentous setting out upon his
+life in early manhood to the least decision of his present passing day.
+It is a very proper emblem of a beginning. It may lead him to that kind
+of muddle and set-back which attaches only to beginnings, or it may get
+him fairly into the weather, and yet he may find, a little way outside,
+that he has to run for it, or to beat back to harbour. Or, more
+generously, it may lead him to a long and steady cruise in which he
+shall find profit and make distant rivers and continue to increase his
+log by one good landfall after another. But the whole point of weighing
+anchor is that he has chosen his weather and his tide, and that he is
+setting out. The thing is done.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You will very commonly observe that, in land affairs, if good fortune
+follows a venture it is due to the marvellous excellence of its
+conductor, but if ill fortune, then to evil chance alone. Now, it is not
+so with the sea.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sea drives truth into a man like salt. A coward cannot long pretend
+to be brave at sea, nor a fool to be wise, nor a prig to be a good
+companion, and any venture connected with the sea is full of venture and
+can pretend to be nothing more. Nevertheless there is a certain pride in
+keeping a course through different weathers, in making the best of a
+tide, in using cats' paws in a dull race, and, generally, in knowing how
+to handle the thing you steer and to judge the water and the wind. Just
+because men have to tell the truth once they get into tide water, what
+little is due to themselves in their success thereon they are proud of
+and acknowledge.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If your sailing venture goes well, sailing reader, take a just pride in
+it; there will be the less need for me to write, some few years hence,
+upon the art of picking up moorings, though I confess I would rather
+have written on that so far as the fun of writing was concerned. For
+picking up moorings is a far more tricky and amusing business than
+Getting It up. It differs with every conceivable circumstance of wind,
+and tide, and harbour, and rig, and freeboard, and light; and then there
+are so many stories to tell about it! As--how once a poor man picked up
+a rich man's moorings at Cowes and was visited by an aluminium boat, all
+splendid in the morning sun. Or again--how a stranger who had made
+Orford Haven (that very difficult place) on the very top of an
+equinoctial springtide, picked up a racing mark-buoy, taking it to be
+moorings, and dragged it with him all the way to Aldborough, and that
+right before the town of Orford, so making himself hateful to the Orford
+people.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But I digress....
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="reveillon">The Reveillon</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+There was in the regiment with which I served a man called Frocot,
+famous with his comrades because he had seen The Dead, for this
+experience, though common among the Scotch, is rare among the French, a
+sister nation. This man Frocot could neither write nor read, and was
+also the strongest man I ever knew. He was quite short and exceedingly
+broad, and he could break a penny with his hands, but this gift of
+strength, though young men value it so much, was thought little of
+compared with his perception of unseen things, for though the men, who
+were peasants, professed to laugh at it, and him, in their hearts they
+profoundly believed. It had been made clear to us that he could see and
+hear The Dead one night in January during a snowstorm, when he came in
+and woke me in barrack-room because he had heard the Loose Spur. Our
+spurs were not buckled on like the officers'; they were fixed into the
+heel of the boot, and if a nail loosened upon either side the spur
+dragged with an unmistakable noise. There was a sergeant who (for some
+reason) had one so loosened on the last night he had ever gone the
+rounds before his death, for in the morning as he came off guard he
+killed himself, and the story went about among the drivers that
+sometimes on stable guard in the thick of the night, when you watched
+all alone by the lantern (with your three comrades asleep in the straw
+of an empty stall), your blood would stop and your skin tauten at the
+sound of a loose spur dragging on the far side of the stable, in the
+dark. But though many had heard the story, and though some had pretended
+to find proof for it, I never knew a man to feel and know it except this
+man Frocot on that night. I remember him at the foot of my bed with his
+lantern waking me from the rooted sleep of bodily fatigue, standing
+there in his dark blue driver's coat and staring with terrible eyes. He
+had undoubtedly heard and seen, but whether of himself from within,
+imagining, or, as I rather believe, from without and influenced, it is
+impossible to say. He was rough and poor, and he came from the Forest of
+Ardennes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The reason I remember him and write of him at this season is not,
+however, this particular and dreadful visitation of his, but a folly or
+a vision that befell him at this time of the year, now seventeen years
+ago; for he had Christmas leave and was on his way from garrison to his
+native place, and he was walking the last miles of the wood. It was the
+night before Christmas. It was clear, and there was no wind, but the sky
+was overcast with level clouds and the evening was very dark. He started
+unfed since the first meal of the day; it was dark three hours before he
+was up into the high wood. He met no one during all these miles, and his
+body and his mind were lonely; he hoped to press on and be at his
+father's door before two in the morning or perhaps at one. The night was
+so still that he heard no noise in the high wood, not even the rustling
+of a leaf or a twig crackling, and no animal ran in the undergrowth. The
+moss of the ride was silent under his heavy tread, but now and then the
+steel of his side-arm clicked against a metal button of the great cloak
+he wore. This sharp sound made him so conscious of himself that he
+seemed to fill that forest with his own presence and to be all that was,
+there or elsewhere. He was in a mood of unreal and not holy things. The
+mood, remaining, changed its aspect, and now he was so far from alone
+that all the trunks around him and the glimmers of sky between bare
+boughs held each a spirit of its own, and with the powerful imagination
+of the unlearned he could have spoken and held communion with the trees;
+but it would have an evil communion, for he felt this mood of his take
+on a further phase as he went deeper and deeper still into these
+forests. He felt about him uneasily the sense of doom. He was in that
+exaltation of fancy or dream when faint appeals are half heard far off,
+but not by our human ears, and when whatever attempts to pierce the
+armour of our mortality appeals to us by wailing and by despairing
+sighs. It seemed to him that most unhappy things passed near him in the
+air, and that the wood about him was full of sobbing. Then, again, he
+felt his own mind within him begin to be occupied by doubtful troubles
+worse than these terrors, an anxious straining for ill news, for bitter
+and dreadful news, mixed with a confused certitude that such news had
+come indeed, disturbed and haunted him; and all the while about him in
+that stillness the rushing of unhappy spirits went like a secret storm.
+He was clouded with the mingled emotions of apprehension and of fatal
+mourning; he attempted to remember the expectations that had failed him,
+friends untrue, and the names of parents dead; but he was now the victim
+of this strange night and unable (whether from hunger or fatigue, or
+from that unique power of his to discern things beyond the world) to
+remember his life or his definite aims at all, or even his own name. He
+was mixed with the whole universe about him, and was suffering some loss
+so grievous that very soon the gait of his march and his whole being
+were informed by a large and final despair.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was in this great and universal mood (granted to him as a seer,
+though he was a common man) that he saw down the ride, but somewhat to
+one side of it in the heart of the high wood, a great light shining from
+a barn or shed that stood there in the undergrowth, and to this light,
+though his way naturally led him to it, he felt also impelled by an
+influence as strong as or stronger than the despair that had filled his
+soul and all the woods around. He went on therefore quickly, straining
+with his eyes, and when he came into the light that shone out from this
+he saw a more brilliant light within, and men of his own kind adoring;
+but the vision was confused, like light on light or like vapours moving
+over bright metals in a cauldron, and as he gazed his mind became still
+and the dread left him altogether. He said it was like shutting a
+gentleman's great oaken door against a driving storm.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This is the story he told me weeks after as we rode together in the
+battery, for he hid it in his heart till the spring. As I say, I
+believed him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He was an unlearned man and a strong; he never worshipped. He was of
+that plain stuff and clay on which has worked since all recorded time
+the power of the Spirit.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He said that when he left (as he did rapidly leave) that light, peace
+also left him, but that the haunting terror did not return. He found the
+clearing and his father's hut; fatigue and the common world indeed
+returned, but with them a permanent memory of things experienced.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Every word I have written of him is true.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="cheeses">On Cheeses</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+If antiquity be the test of nobility, as many affirm and none deny
+(saving, indeed, that family which takes for its motto "Sola Virtus
+Nobilitas," which may mean that virtue is the only nobility, but which
+may also mean, mark you, that nobility is the only virtue--and anyhow
+denies that nobility is tested by the lapse of time), <i>if</i>, I say,
+antiquity be the only test of nobility, then cheese is a very noble
+thing.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But wait a moment: there was a digression in that first paragraph which
+to the purist might seem of a complicated kind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Were I writing algebra (I wish I were) I could have analysed my thoughts
+by the use of square brackets, round brackets, twiddly brackets, and the
+rest, all properly set out in order so that a Common Fool could follow
+them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But no such luck! I may not write of algebra here; for there is a rule
+current in all newspapers that no man may write upon any matter save
+upon those in which he is more learned than all his human fellows that
+drag themselves so slowly daily forward to the grave.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So I had to put the thing in the very common form of a digression, and
+very nearly to forget that great subject of cheese which I had put at
+the very head and title of this.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Which reminds me: had I followed the rule set down by a London
+journalist the other day (and of the proprietor of his paper I will say
+nothing--though I might have put down the remark to his proprietor) I
+would have hesitated to write that first paragraph. I would have
+hesitated, did I say? Griffins' tails! Nay--Hippogriffs and other things
+of the night! I would not have dared to write it at all! For this
+journalist made a law and promulgated it, and the law was this: that no
+man should write that English which could not be understood if all the
+punctuation were left out. Punctuation, I take it, includes brackets,
+which the Lord of Printers knows are a very modern part of punctuation
+indeed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now let the horripilised reader look up again at the first paragraph (it
+will do him no harm), and think how it would look all written out in
+fair uncials like the beautiful Gospels of St. Chad, which anyone may
+see for nothing in the cathedral of Lichfield, an English town famous
+for eight or nine different things: as Garrick, Doctor Johnson, and its
+two opposite inns. Come, read that first paragraph over now and see what
+you could make of it if it were written out in uncials--that is, not
+only without punctuation, but without any division between the words.
+Wow! As the philosopher said when he was asked to give a plain answer
+"Yes" or "No."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And now to cheese. I have had quite enough of digressions and of
+follies. They are the happy youth of an article. They are the springtime
+of it. They are its riot. I am approaching the middle age of this
+article. Let us be solid upon the matter of cheese.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have premised its antiquity, which is of two sorts, as is that of a
+nobleman. First, the antiquity of its lineage; secondly, the antiquity
+of its self. For we all know that when we meet a nobleman we revere his
+nobility very much if he be himself old, and that this quality of age in
+him seems to marry itself in some mysterious way with the antiquity of
+his line.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The lineage of cheese is demonstrably beyond all record. What did the
+faun in the beginning of time when a god surprised him or a mortal had
+the misfortune to come across him in the woods? It is well known that
+the faun offered either of them cheese. So he knew how to make it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There are certain bestial men, hangers-on of the Germans, who would
+contend that this would prove cheese to be acquired by the Aryan race
+(or what not) from the Dolichocephalics (or what not), and there are
+certain horrors who descend to imitate these barbarians--though
+themselves born in these glorious islands, which are so steep upon their
+western side. But I will not detain you upon these lest I should fall
+head foremost into another digression and forget that my article,
+already in its middle age, is now approaching grey hairs.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At any rate, cheese is very old. It is beyond written language. Whether
+it is older than butter has been exhaustively discussed by several
+learned men, to whom I do not send you because the road towards them
+leads elsewhere. It is the universal opinion of all most accustomed to
+weigh evidence (and in these I very properly include not only such
+political hacks as are already upon the bench but sweepingly every
+single lawyer in Parliament, since any one of them may tomorrow be a
+judge) that milk is older than cheese, and that man had the use of milk
+before he cunningly devised the trick of squeezing it in a press and by
+sacrificing something of its sweetness endowed it with a sort of
+immortality.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The story of all this has perished. Do not believe any man who professes
+to give it you. If he tells you some legend of a god who taught the
+Wheat-eating Race, the Ploughers, and the Lords to make cheese, tell him
+such tales are true symbols, but symbols only. If he tells you that
+cheese was an evolution and a development, oh! then!--bring up your
+guns! Open on the fellow and sweep his intolerable lack of intelligence
+from the earth. Ask him if he discovers reality to be a function of
+time, and Being to hide in clockwork. Keep him on the hop with ironical
+comments upon how it may be that environment can act upon Will, while
+Will can do nothing with environment--whose proper name is mud. Pester
+the provincial. Run him off the field.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But about cheese. Its noble antiquity breeds in it a noble diffusion.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This happy Christendom of ours (which is just now suffering from an
+indigestion and needs a doctor--but having also a complication of
+insomnia cannot recollect his name) has been multifarious
+incredibly--but in nothing more than in cheese!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One cheese differs from another, and the difference is in sweeps, and in
+landscapes, and in provinces, and in countrysides, and in climates, and
+in principalities, and in realms, and in the nature of things. Cheese
+does most gloriously reflect the multitudinous effect of earthly things,
+which could not be multitudinous did they not proceed from one mind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Consider the cheese of Rocquefort: how hard it is in its little box.
+Consider the cheese of Camembert, which is hard also, and also lives in
+a little box, but must not be eaten until it is soft and yellow.
+Consider the cheese of Stilton, which is not made there, and of Cheddar,
+which is. Then there is your Parmesan, which idiots buy rancid in
+bottles, but which the wise grate daily for their use: you think it is
+hard from its birth? You are mistaken. It is the world that hardens the
+Parmesan. In its youth the Parmesan is very soft and easy, and is
+voraciously devoured.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then there is your cheese of Wensleydale, which is made in Wensleydale,
+and your little Swiss cheese, which is soft and creamy and eaten with
+sugar, and there is your Cheshire cheese and your little Cornish cheese,
+whose name escapes me, and your huge round cheese out of the Midlands,
+as big as a fort whose name I never heard. There is your toasted or
+Welsh cheese, and your cheese of Pont-l'evque, and your white cheese of
+Brie, which is a chalky sort of cheese. And there is your cheese of
+Neufchatel, and there is your Gorgonzola cheese, which is mottled all
+over like some marbles, or like that Mediterranean soap which is made of
+wood-ash and of olive oil. There is your Gloucester cheese called the
+Double Gloucester, and I have read in a book of Dunlop cheese, which is
+made in Ayrshire: they could tell you more about it in Kilmarnock. Then
+Suffolk makes a cheese, but does not give it any name; and talking of
+that reminds me how going to Le Quesnoy to pass the people there the
+time of day, and to see what was left of that famous but forgotten
+fortress, a young man there showed me a cheese, which he told me also
+had no name, but which was native to the town, and in the valley of Ste.
+Engrace, where is that great wood which shuts off all the world, they
+make their cheese of ewe's milk and sell it in Tardets, which is their
+only livelihood. They make a cheese in Port-Salut which is a very subtle
+cheese, and there is a cheese of Limburg, and I know not how many
+others, or rather I know them, but you have had enough: for a little
+cheese goes a long way. No man is a glutton on cheese.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What other cheese has great holes in it like Gruyere, or what other is
+as round as a cannon-ball like that cheese called Dutch? which reminds
+me:--
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Talking of Dutch cheese. Do you not notice how the intimate mind of
+Europe is reflected in cheese? For in the centre of Europe, and where
+Europe is most active, I mean in Britain and in Gaul and in Northern
+Italy, and in the valley of the Rhine--nay, to some extent in Spain (in
+her Pyrenean valleys at least)--there flourishes a vast burgeoning of
+cheese, infinite in variety, one in goodness. But as Europe fades away
+under the African wound which Spain suffered or the Eastern barbarism of
+the Elbe, what happens to cheese? It becomes very flat and similar. You
+can quote six cheeses perhaps which the public power of Christendom has
+founded outside the limits of its ancient Empire--but not more than six.
+I will quote you 253 between the Ebro and the Grampians, between
+Brindisi and the Irish Channel.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I do not write vainly. It is a profound thing.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="captain">The Captain of Industry</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+The heir of the merchant Mahmoud had not disappointed that great
+financier while he still lived, and when he died he had the satisfaction
+of seeing the young man, now twenty-five years of age, successfully
+conducting his numerous affairs, and increasing (fabulous as this may
+seem) the millions with which his uncle entrusted him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Shortly after Mahmoud's death the prosperity of the firm had already
+given rise to a new proverb, and men said: "Do you think I am
+Mahmoud's-Nephew?" when they were asked to lend money or in some other
+way to jeopardize a few coppers in the service of God or their
+neighbour.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was also a current expression, "He's rich as Mahmoud's-Nephew," when
+comrades would jest against some young fellow who was flusher than
+usual, and could afford a quart or even a gallon of wine for the
+company; while again the discontented and the oppressed would mutter
+between their teeth: "Heaven will take vengeance at last upon these
+Mahmoud's-Nephews!" In a word, "Mahmoud's-Nephew" came to mean
+throughout the whole Caliphate and wherever the True Believers spread
+their empire, an exceedingly wealthy man. But Mahmoud himself having
+been dead ten years and his heir the fortunate head of the establishment
+being now well over thirty years of age, there happened a very
+inexplicable and outrageous accident: he died--and after his death no
+instructions were discovered as to what should be done with this
+enormous capital, no will could be found, and it happened moreover to be
+a moment of great financial delicacy when the manager of each department
+in the business needed all the credit he could get.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In such a quandary the Chief Organizer and confidential friend, Ahmed,
+upon whom the business already largely depended, and who was so
+circumstanced that he could draw almost at will upon the balances,
+imagined a most intelligent way of escaping from the difficulties that
+would arise when the death of the principal was known.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He caused a quantity of hay, of straw, of dust and of other worthless
+materials to be stuffed into a figure of canvas; this he wrapped round
+with the usual clothes that Mahmoud's-Nephew had worn in the office, he
+shrouded the face with the hood which his chief had commonly worn during
+life, and having so dressed the lay figure and secretly buried the real
+body, he admitted upon the morning after the death those who first had
+business with his master.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He met them at the door with smiles and bows, saying: "You know,
+gentlemen, that like most really successful men, my chief is as silent
+as his decisions are rapid; he will listen to what you have to say, and
+it will be a plain yes or no at the end of it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+These gentlemen came with a proposal to sell to the firm for the sum of
+one million dinars a barren rock in the Indian Sea, which was not even
+theirs, and on which indeed not one of them had ever set eyes. Their
+claim to advance so original a proposal was that to their certain
+knowledge two thousand of the wealthiest citizens of their town were
+willing to buy the rock again at a profit from whoever should be its
+possessor during the next few weeks in the fond hope of selling it once
+again to provincials, clerics, widows, orphans, and in general the
+uninstructed and the credulous--among whom had been industriously spread
+the report that the rock in question consisted of one solid and flawless
+diamond.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+These gentlemen sitting round the table before the shrouded figure laid
+down their proposals, whereupon the manager briefly summed up what they
+had said, and having done so, replied: "Gentlemen, his lordship is a man
+of few words; but you will have your answer in a moment if you will be
+good enough to rise, as he is at this moment expecting a deputation from
+the Holy Men who are entreating him to provide the cost of a mosque in
+one of the suburbs."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The proposers of the bargain rose, greatly awed and pleased by the
+silence and dignity of the financier who apparently remained for a
+moment discussing their proposals without gesture and in a tone too low
+for them to hear, while his manager bent over to listen.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is ever so," said one of them, "you may ever know the greatest men
+by their silence."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You are right," said another, "he is not one to be easily deceived."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The manager in a moment or two rejoined them at the door. "Gentlemen,"
+he said, smiling, "my chief has heard your arguments and has expressed
+his assent to your conditions."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They went out, delighted at the success of their mission, and
+congratulated Ahmed upon the financier's genius.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He does not," said the manager, laughing in hearty agreement, "bestow
+himself as a present upon all and sundry. Nor is he often caught
+indulging in short bouts of sleep, nor are flies diabolically left to
+repose undisturbed upon his features--but you must excuse me, I hear the
+Holy Men," and indeed from the inner room came a noise of speechifying
+in that doleful sing-song which is associated in Bagdad with the
+practice of religion.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The gentlemen who had thus had the luck to interview Mahmoud's-Nephew
+with such success in the matter of the Diamond Island, soon spread about
+the news, and confirmed their fellow-citizens in the certitude that a
+great financier is neither talkative nor vivacious. "Still waters run
+deep," they said, and all those to whom they said it nodded in a wise
+acquiescence. Nor had the Manager the least difficulty in receiving one
+set of customers after another and in negotiating within three weeks an
+infinite amount of business, all of which confirmed those who had the
+pleasure of an audience with the stuffed dummy that great fortunes were
+made and retained by reticence and a contempt for convivial weakness.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At last the ingenious man of affairs, to whom the whole combination was
+due, was not a little disturbed to receive from the Caliph a note
+couched in the following terms:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Commander of the Faithful and the Servant of the Merciful whose
+name be exalted, to the Nephew of Mahmoud:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"My Lord:--
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It has been the custom since the days of my grandfather (May his soul
+see God!) for the more wealthy of the Faithful to be called to my
+councils, and upon my summoning them thither it has not been unusual for
+them to present sums varying in magnitude but always proportionate to
+their total fortunes. My court will receive signal honour if you will
+present yourself after the morning prayer of the day after to-morrow. My
+treasurer will receive from you with gratitude and remembrance upon the
+previous day and not later than noon, the sum of one million dinars."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here, indeed, was a perplexity. The payment of the money was an easy
+matter and was duly accomplished; but how should the lay figure which
+did duty in such domestic scenes as the negotiation of loans, the
+bullying of debtors, the purchase of options, and the cheating of the
+innocent and the embarrassed, take his place in the Caliph's council and
+remain undiscovered? For great as was the reputation of Mahmoud's-Nephew
+for discretion and for golden silence, such as are proper to the
+accumulation of great wealth, there would seem a necessity in any
+political assembly to open the mouth from time to time, if only for the
+giving of a vote.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But Ahmed, who had by this time accumulated into his own hands the
+millions formerly his master's, finally solved the problem. Judicious
+presents to the servants of the palace and the public criers made his
+way the easier, and on the summoning of the council Mahmoud's-Nephew,
+whose troublesome affection of the throat was now publicly discussed,
+was permitted to bring into the council-room his private secretary and
+manager.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Moreover at the council, as at his private office, the continued
+taciturnity of the millionaire could not but impress the politicians as
+it had already impressed the financial world.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He does not waste his breath in tub-thumping," said one, looking
+reverently at the sealed figure.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No," another would reply, "they may ridicule our old-fashioned, honest,
+quiet Mohammedan country gentlemen, but for common sense I will back
+them against all the brilliant paradoxical young fellows of our day."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They say he is very kind at heart and lovable," a third would then add,
+upon which a fourth would bear his testimony thus:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, and though he says nothing about it, his charitable gifts are
+enormous."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+By the second meeting of the council the lay figure had achieved a
+reputation of so high a sort that the Caliph himself insisted upon
+making him a domestic adviser, one of the three who perpetually
+associated with the Commander of the <i>Faithful</i> and directed his
+policy. For the universal esteem in which the new councillor was held
+had affected that Prince very deeply.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here there arose a crux from which there could be no escape, as one of
+the three chief councillors, Mahmoud's-Nephew, must speak at last and
+deliver judgments!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Manager, first considering the whole business, and next adding up
+his private gains, which he had carefully laid out in estates of which
+the firm and its employs knew nothing, decided that he could afford to
+retire. What might happen to the general business after his withdrawal
+would not be his concern.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He first gave out, therefore, that the millionaire was taken exceedingly
+ill, and that his life was despaired of: later, within a few hours, that
+he was dead.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So far from attempting to allay the panic which ensued, Ahmed frankly
+admitted the worst.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+With cries of despair and a confident appeal to the justice of Heaven
+against such intrigues, the honest fellow permitted the whole of the
+vast business to be wound up in favour of newcomers, who had not
+forgotten to reward him, and soothing as best he could the ruined crowds
+of small investors who thronged round him for help and advice, he
+retired under an assumed name to his highly profitable estates, which
+were situated in the most distant provinces of the known world.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As for Mahmoud's-Nephew, three theories arose about him which are still
+disputed to this day:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The first was that his magnificent brain with its equitable judgment and
+its power of strict secrecy, had designed plans too far advanced for his
+time, and that his bankruptcy was due to excess of wisdom.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The second theory would have it that by "going into politics" (as the
+phrase runs in Bagdad) he had dissipated his energies, neglected his
+business, and that the inevitable consequences had followed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The third theory was far more reasonable. Mahmoud's-Nephew, according to
+this, had towards the end of his life lost judgment; his garrulous
+indecision within the last few days before his death was notorious: in
+the Caliph's council, as those who should best know were sure, one could
+hardly get a word in edgewise for his bombastic self-assurance; while in
+matters of business, to conduct a bargain with him was more like
+attending a public meeting than the prosecution of negotiations with a
+respectable banker.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In a word, it was generally agreed that Mahmoud's-Nephew's success had
+been bound up with his splendid silence, his fall, bankruptcy, and
+death, with a lesion of the brain which had disturbed this miracle of
+self-control.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="inventor">The Inventor</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+I had a day free between two lectures in the south-west of England, and
+I spent it stopping at a town in which there was a large and very
+comfortable old posting-house or coaching-inn. I had meant to stay some
+few hours there and to take the last train out in the evening, and I had
+meant to spend those hours alone and resting; but this was not permitted
+me, for just as I had taken up the local paper, which was a humble,
+reasonable thing, empty of any passion and violence and very reposeful
+to read, a man came up and touched my left elbow sharply: a gesture not
+at all to my taste nor, I think, to that of anyone who is trying to read
+his paper.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I looked up and saw a man who must have been quite sixty years of age.
+He had on a soft, felt slouch hat, a very old and greenish black coat;
+he stooped and shuffled; he was clean-shaven, with long grey hair, and
+his eyes were astonishingly bright and piercing and set close together.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He said, "I beg your pardon."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I said, "Eh, what?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He said again "I beg your pardon" in the tones of a man who almost
+commands, and having said this he put his hat on the table, dragged a
+chair quite close to mine, and pulled a folded bunch of foolscap sheets
+out of his pocket. His manner was that of a man who engages your
+attention and has a right to engage it. There were no preliminaries and
+there was no introduction. This was apparently his manner, and I
+submitted.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I have here," he said, fixing me with his intense eyes, "the plans for
+a speedometer."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh!" said I.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You know what a speedometer is?" he asked suspiciously.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I said yes. I said it was a machine for measuring the speed of vehicles,
+and that it was compounded of two (or more) Greek words.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He nodded; he was pleased that I knew so much, and could therefore
+listen to his tale and understand it. He pulled his grey baggy trousers
+up over the knee, settled himself, sitting forward, and opened his
+document. He cleared his throat, still fixing me with those eyes of his,
+and said--
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Every speedometer up to now has depended upon the same principle as a
+Watt's governor; that is, there are two little balls attached to each by
+a limb to a central shaft: they rise and fall according to their speed
+of rotation, and this movement is indicated upon a dial."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I nodded.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He cleared his throat again. "Of course, that is unsatisfactory."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Damnably!" said I, but this reply did not check him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It works tolerably well at high speeds; at low speeds it is useless;
+and then again there is a very rapid fluctuation, and the instrument is
+of only approximate precision."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Not it!" said I to encourage him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There is one exception," he continued, "to this principle, and that is
+a speedometer which depends upon the introduction of resistance into a
+current generated by a small magneto. The faster the magneto turns the
+stronger the current generated, and the change is indicated upon a
+dial."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said I sadly, "as in the former case so in this; the change of
+speed is indicated upon a dial." And I sighed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But this method also," he went on tenaciously, "has its defects."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You may lay to that," I interrupted.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It has the defect that at high speeds its readings are not quite
+correct, and at very low speeds still less so. Moreover, it is said that
+it slightly deteriorates with the passage of time."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Now that," I broke in emphatically, "is a defect I have discovered
+in----"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But he put up his hand to stop me. "It slightly deteriorates, I say,
+with the passage of time." He paused a moment impressively. "No one has
+hitherto discovered any system which will accurately record the speed of
+a vehicle or of any rotary movement and register it at the lowest as at
+the highest speeds." He paused again for a still longer period in order
+to give still greater emphasis to what he had to say. He concluded in a
+new note of sober triumph: "I have solved the problem!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I thought this was the end of him, and I got up and beamed a
+congratulation at him and asked if he would drink anything, but he only
+said, "Please sit down again and I will explain."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is no way of combating this sort of thing, and so I sat down, and
+he went on:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is perfectly simple...." He passed his hand over his forehead. "It
+is so simple that one would say it must have been thought of before; but
+that is what is always said of a great invention.... Now I have here"
+(and he opened out his foolscap) "the full details. But I will not read
+them to you; I will summarize them briefly."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Have you a plan or anything I could watch?" said I a little anxiously.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No," he answered sharply, "I have not, but if you like I will draw a
+rough sketch as I go along upon the margin of your newspaper."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Thank you," I said.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He drew the newspaper towards him and put it on his knee. He pulled out
+a pencil; he held the foolscap up before his eye, and he began to
+describe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The general principle upon which my speedometer reposes," he said
+solemnly, "is the coordination of the cylinder and the cone upon an
+angle which will have to be determined in practice, and will probably
+vary for different types. But it will never fall below 15 nor rise over
+43."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I should have thought----" I began, but he told me I could not yet have
+grasped it, and that he wished to be more explicit.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"On a king bolt," he said, occasionally consulting his notes, "runs a
+pivot in bevel which is kept in place by a small hair-spring, which
+spring fits loosely on the Conkling Shaft."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Exactly," said I, "I see what is coming."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But he wouldn't let me off so easily.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, of course you are going to say that the whole will be keyed
+together, and that the T-pattern nuts on a movable shank will be my
+method of attachment to the fixed portion next to the cam? Eh? So it is,
+but" (and here his eye brightened), "<i>anyone</i> could have arranged
+that. My particularity is that I have a freedom of movement even at the
+lowest speeds, and an accuracy of notation even at the highest, which is
+secured in a wholly novel manner ... and yet so simply. What do you
+think it is?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I affected to look puzzled, and thought for a moment. "I cannot
+imagine," said I, "unless----"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No," he interrupted, "do not try to guess it, for you never will. <i>I
+turn the flange inward</i> on a Wilkinson lathe and give it a parabolic
+section so that the axes are always parallel to each other and to the
+shaft.... There!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had no idea the man could be so moved: there was jubilation in his
+voice.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There!" he said again, as though some effort of the brain had exhausted
+him. "It can't be touched, mind you," he added suspiciously; "I've taken
+out the provisional patents. There's one man I know wants to fight it in
+the courts as an infringement on Wilkinson's own patent, but it can't be
+touched!" He shook his head decisively. "No! my lawyer's certain of
+that--and so'm I!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here there was a break in his communications, so to speak, and he had
+apparently run out. It was not for me to wind him up again. I watched
+him with a sombre relief as he stood up again to full height, leaned his
+head back, and sighed profoundly with satisfaction and with completion.
+He folded up his specification and put it in his pocket again. He tore
+off the incomprehensible sketch he had made with his pencil while he was
+speaking, and put it by me on the mantelshelf. "You might like to keep
+it," he said pathetically; "it's a document, that is; it will be famous
+some day." He looked at it lovingly, almost as though he was going to
+take it back again: but he thought better of it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was waiting, I will not say itching, for him to take his leave, when a
+god or demon, that same perhaps which had treated the poor fellow as a
+jest for a whole lifetime, inspired him to take a very false step
+indeed. He had already taken up his hat and was turning as though to go
+to the door, when the unfortunate thought struck him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What would you do?" he said.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How do you mean?" I answered.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, what would you do to try and get it taken up and talked about?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then it was my turn, and I let him have it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You must get the Press and the Government to work together," I said
+rapidly, "and particularly in connection with the new Government Service
+of Camion's Fettle-Trains and Cursory Circuits."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He nodded like one who thoroughly understands and desires to hear more.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Speed," I added nonchalantly, "and the measure of it are of course
+essentials in their case."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He nodded again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"And they have never really settled the problem ... especially about
+Fettle-Trains."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No," said he ponderously, "so I understand."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+
+"Well now," I went on, full of the chase, "you will naturally ask me who
+are you to go to?" I scratched my nose. "You know the Fusionary Office,
+as we call it? It is really, of course, a part of the Stannaries. But
+the Chief Permanent Secretary likes to have it called the Fusionary
+Office; it's his vanity."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," said he eagerly, "yes, go on!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"They always have the same hours," I said, "four to eleven."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Four to <i>what</i>?" he asked, looking up.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"To eleven," I repeated sharply; "but you'd much better call round about
+three."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He looked bewildered.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Don't interrupt," I said, seeing him open his lips, "or I shall lose
+the thread. It's rather complicated. You call at three by the little
+door in Whitehall on the Embankment side towards the Horse Guards
+looking south, and <i>don't</i> ring the bell."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why not?" he asked. I thought for the moment he might begin to cry.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh, well," I said testily, "you mustn't ask those questions. All these
+institutions are very old institutions with habits and prejudices of
+their own. You mustn't ring the bell, that's all; they don't like it;
+you must just wait until they open; and then, if you take <i>my</i>
+advice, don't write a note or ask to interview the First Analyist. Don't
+do any of the usual things, but just fill up one of the regular Treasury
+forms and state that you have come with regard to the Perception and
+Mensuration advertisements."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+His face was pained and wrinkled as he heard me, but he said, "I beg
+your pardon ... but shall I have it all explained to me at the office?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Certainly not!" I said, aghast; "it's just because you might have so
+much difficulty there that I'm explaining everything to you."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes, I know," he said doubtfully; "thank you."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I hope you'll try and follow what I say," I continued a little wearily;
+"I have special opportunities for knowing.... Political, you know."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Certainly," he said, "certainly; but about those forms?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well," I said, "you didn't suppose they supplied them, did you?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I almost did," he ventured.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh, you did," said I, with a loud laugh, "well, you're wrong there.
+However, I dare say I've got one on me." He looked up eagerly as I felt
+in my pockets. I brought out a telegraph blank, two letters, and a
+tobacco pouch. I looked at them for a moment. "No," said I, "I haven't
+got one; it's a pity, but I'll tell you who will give you one; you know
+the place opposite, where the bills are drafted?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I'm afraid I don't," he said, admitting ignorance for the first time in
+this conversation and perhaps in his life.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well," said I impatiently, "never mind, anyone will show you. Go there,
+and if they don't give you a form they'll show you a copy of Paper B,
+which is much the same thing."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Thank you," said he humbly, and he got up to move out. He was going a
+little groggily, his eyes were dull and sodden. He presented all the
+aspect of a man under a heavy strain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You've got it all clear, I hope?" I asked cheerfully as he neared the
+door.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh, yes!" he said. "Thank you; yes!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Anything else?" I shouted as he passed out into the courtyard.
+"Anything else I can do? You'll always find me in the room over the
+office, Room H, down the little iron staircase," I nodded genially to
+him as he disappeared.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In this way did we exchange, the Inventor and I, those expert
+confidences and mutual aids in either's technical skill which are too
+rarely discovered in modern travel.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="views">The Views of England</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+England is a country with edges and with a core. It is a country very
+small for the number of people who live in it, and very appreciable to
+the eye for the traveller who travels on foot or in a boat from place to
+place. Considering the part it has in the making of the world, it might
+justly be compared to a jewel which is very small and very valuable and
+can almost be held in the hand. The physical appreciation of England is
+to be reached by an appreciation of landscape.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It so happens that England is traversed by remarkable and sudden ranges;
+hills with a sharp escarpment overlooking great undulating plains. This
+is not true of any other one country of Europe, but it is true of
+England, and a man who professes to consider, to understand, to
+criticize, to defend, and to love this country, must know the Pennines,
+the Cotswolds, the North and the South Downs, the Chilterns, the
+Mendips, and the Malverns; he must know Delamere Forest, and he must
+know the Hill of Beeston, from which all Cheshire may be perceived. If
+he knows these heights and has long considered the prospects which they
+afford, he can claim to have seen the face of England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is deplorable that our modern method of travel does cut us off from
+such experiences. They were not only common to, they were necessary to
+our fathers; the roads would not be at the expense of tunnelling through
+hills, and (what is more important) when those men who most mould the
+knowledge of the country by the country (the people who deal with its
+soil, who live separate upon its separate farms) visited each other upon
+horses; and horses, unlike railway trains, cannot climb hills. They
+puff, they heave, they snort, as do railway trains, but they climb them
+well.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On this account, because the roads for the carriages went over hills,
+and because the method of visiting even a near neighbour would permit
+you to go over hills, the England of quite a little time ago was
+familiar with the half-dozen great landscapes of England. You may see it
+in that most individual, that most peculiar, and, I think, that most
+glorious school of painters, the English landscape painter, Constable
+with his thick colours, Turner with his wonderment, and even the
+portrait painters in their backgrounds depend upon the view of the
+plains from a height. To-day our landscape painters sometimes do the
+same, but the market for that emotion is capricious, it is no longer the
+secure and natural way of presenting England to English eyes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If you will consider these plains at the foot of the English hills you
+will find in them the whole history of the country, and the whole
+meaning of it as well. Two occur to me first: The view of the Weald
+(both Kentish and Sussex) through which the influence of Europe
+perpetually approached the island, not only in the crisis of the Roman
+or the Norman invasions, but in a hundred episodes stretched out through
+two thousand years--and the view of the Thames Valley as one gets it on
+a clear day from the summits of the North Downs when one looks northward
+and sees very faintly the Chilterns along the horizon.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This last is obscured by London. One needs a very particular
+circumstance in which to appreciate it. The air must be dry and clear,
+there must be little or no wind, or if there is a wind it must be a
+strong one from the south and west that has already driven the smoke
+from the western edge of the town. When this is so, a man looks right
+across to the sandy heights just north of the Thames, and far beyond he
+sees the Chilterns, like a landfall upon the rim of the world. He looks
+at all that soil on which the government of this country has been
+rooted. He sees the hill of Windsor. He overlooks, though he cannot
+perceive at so great a distance, the two great schools of the rich; he
+has within one view the principal Castle of the Kings, the place of
+their council, and the cathedral of their capital city: so true is it
+that the Thames made England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then, if you consider the upper half of that valley, the view is from
+the ridge of the Berkshire hills, or, better still, from Cumnor, or from
+the clump of trees above Faringdon. From such look-outs the astonishing
+loneliness which England has had the strength to preserve in this
+historic belt of land profoundly strikes a man. You can see to your left
+and, a long way off, the hill where, as is most probable, Alfred thrust
+back the Pagans, and so saved one-half of Christendom. Oxford is within
+your landscape. The roll upwards in a glacis of the Cotswold, the nodal
+point of the Roman roads at Cirencester, and the ancient crossings of
+the Thames.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From the Cotswold again westward you look over a sheer wall and see one
+of those differences which make up England. For the passage from the
+Upper Thames to the flat and luxuriant valley floor of the Severn is a
+transition (if it be made by crossing the hills) more sudden than that
+between many countries abroad. Had our feudalism cut England into
+provinces we should here have two marked provincial histories marching
+together, for the natural contrast is greater than between Normandy and
+Brittany at any part of their march or between Aragon and Castile at any
+part of theirs. I do not know what it is, but the view of the jagged
+Malvern seen above the happy mists of autumn, when these mists lie like
+a warm fleece upon the orchards of the vale, preserving them of a
+morning until the strengthening of the sun, the sudden aspect, I say, of
+those jagged peaks strikes one like a vision of a new world. How many
+men have thought it! How often it ought to be written down! It hangs in
+the memory of the traveller like a permanent benediction, and remains in
+his mind a standing symbol of peace.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have no space to speak of how from Beeston you see all Cheshire; the
+Vale Royal to your left, and the main plain of the county to your right.
+The whole stretch is framed in with definite hills, the last and highly
+marked line of the Pennines bounds the view upon the east; upon the west
+the first of the Welsh hills stands sharply in a long even line against
+the fading sun; and on the north you see the height of Delamere. There
+are three other views in the North of England, the first easy, the last
+two difficult to obtain, all between them making up a true picture of
+what the North of England is. The first (and it is very famous) is the
+view over the industrial ferment of South Lancashire, seen from the
+complete silence of the hills round the Peak. No matter where you cross
+that summit, even if you take the high road from the Snake Inn to
+Glossop, where the easiest, and therefore the least striking, passage
+has been chosen, much more if you follow the wild heights a little to
+the south until you come to a more abrupt descent on which there are not
+even paths, there comes a point where there is presented to you in one
+great offering, without introduction, a vision of the vast energies of
+England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I remember once in winter when the sun sets early (it was December, and
+seven years ago) coming upon this sight. The clouds were so arranged
+after an Atlantic storm that all the heaven (which here is always
+spacious and noble) was covered with a rolling curtain as though a man
+had pulled it with his hands. But far off, westward, there was a broad
+red band of sunset, and against this the smoke, the tall stacks, the
+violence and the wealth of that cauldron. One could almost hear the
+noise. It did arrest one; it was as though someone had painted something
+unreal, to be a mystical emblem, and to sum up in one picture all those
+million despairs, misfortunes, chances, disciplines, and acquirements
+which make up the character of Lancashire men. This vision also many men
+have seen and many men shall write of. Very rarely upon the surface of
+the earth does the soul take on so immediate and obvious a physical body
+as does the soul of that industrial world in the view of which I speak.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And the two other views are, first, that difficult one which one must
+pick and choose but which can be obtained from several sites (especially
+at the end of Wensleydale), and which is the view of that rich, old, and
+agricultural Yorkshire, from which the county draws its traditions and
+in which, perhaps, the truest spirit of the county still abides; for
+Yorkshire is at heart farmer, and possibly after three generations of a
+town, a man from this part of England still looks more lively when he
+sees a lively horse put before him for judgment. Second, the view from
+Cross Fell, very, very difficult to obtain, for often when one climbs
+Cross Fell in sunny weather, one gets up over the Scar under the threat
+of cloud, and one only reaches the summit by the time the evening or the
+mist has fallen; but if one has the luck to see the view of which I
+speak, then one sees all that rugged remaining part of the Northwest
+exactly as the Romans saw it, and as it has been for two thousand years,
+with the high land of the lakes and the stony nature and the sparseness
+of all the stretch about one, and the approach to a foreign land.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have often thought when I have heard men blaming the story of England
+or her present mood for false reasons, or, what is worse, praising her
+for false reasons; when I have heard the men of the cities talking wild
+talk got from maps and from print, or the disappointed men talking wild
+talk of another kind, expecting impossible or foreign perfections from
+their own kindred--I have often thought, I say, when I have heard the
+folly upon either side (and the mass of it daily increases)--that it
+would be a wholesome thing if one could take such a talker and make him
+walk from Dover to the Solway, exercising some care that he should rise
+before the sun, and that he should see in clear weather the views of
+which I speak. A man who has done that has seen England--not the name or
+the map or the rhetorical catchword, but the thing. And it does not take
+so very long.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="lunatic">The Lunatic</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+Those who are interested in what simple straightforward people call the
+Pathology of Consciousness have gathered a great body of evidence upon
+the various manias that affect men, and there is an especially
+interesting department of this which concerns illusion upon matters
+which in the sane are determinable by the senses and common experience.
+Thus one man will believe himself to be the Emperor of China, another to
+be William Shakespeare or some other impossible person, though one would
+imagine that his every accident of daily life would convince him to the
+contrary.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had recently occasion to watch one of the most harmless and yet one of
+the most striking of these illusions in a private asylum which has
+specialized, if I may so express myself, upon men of letters. The case
+was harmless and even benign, for the poor fellow was not of a combative
+disposition to begin with, was of too careful and dignified a
+temperament to show more than slight irritation if his delusion were
+contradicted. This misfortune, however, very rarely overtook him, for
+those who came to visit him were warned to humour his whim. This
+eccentricity I will now describe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He imagined, nay he was convinced, that he was existing fifty years in
+the future, and that the interest of his conversation for others would
+lie in his reminiscence of the state of society in which we are actually
+living today. If anyone who had not been warned was imprudent enough to
+suggest that the conversation was taking place in 1909 would smile
+gently, nod, and say rather bitterly, "Yes, I know, I know," as though
+recognizing a universal plot against him which he was too weary to
+combat. But when he had said this he would continue to talk on as though
+both parties to the conversation were equally convinced that the year
+was really 1960 or thereabouts. Whether to add zest to what he said or
+from some part of his malady consonant with all the rest, my poor friend
+(who had been a journalist and will very possibly be a journalist again)
+presupposed that the whole structure of society as we now know it had
+changed and that his reminiscences were those of a past time which, on
+account of some great revolution or other, men imperfectly comprehended,
+so that it must be of the highest interest and advantage to listen to
+the testimony of an eye-witness upon them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What especially delighted him (for he was a zealous admirer of the
+society he described) was the method of government.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"There was no possibility of going wrong," he said to me with curious
+zeal, "not a shadow of danger! It would be difficult for you to
+understand now how easily the system worked!" And here he sighed
+profoundly. "And why on earth," he continued, "men should have destroyed
+such an instrument when they had it is more than I can understand. There
+it was in every country in Europe; there were elections; all the men
+voted. And mind you, the elections were not so very far apart. Most
+people living at one election could remember the last, so there was no
+time for abuses to spring up.... Well, everybody voted. If a man wanted
+one thing he voted one way, and if he wanted another thing he voted the
+other way. The people for whom he voted would then meet, and with a
+sense of duty which I cannot exaggerate they would work month after
+month exactly to reproduce the will of those who had appointed them. It
+was a great time!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yet," said I, "even so there must have been occasional divergences
+between what these people did and what the nation wanted."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I see what you mean," he said, musing, "you mean that all the devotion
+in the world, the purest of motives and the most devoted sense of duty,
+could not keep the elected always in contact with the electors. You are
+right. But you must remember that in every country there was a
+machinery, with regard to the most important measures at least, which
+could throw the matter before the electors to be re-decided. I can
+remember no important occasion upon which the machinery was not brought
+into use."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But, after all, the value of the decisions of the electorate you are
+describing," said I, continuing to humour him, "would depend upon the
+information which the electorate had received as well as upon their
+judgment."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"As for their judgment," he said, a little shortly, "it is not for our
+time to criticize theirs. Human judgment is not infallible, but I can
+well remember how in every nation of Europe it was the fixed conviction
+of the citizens that judgment was their chief characteristic, and
+especially judgment in national affairs. I cannot believe that so
+universal an attitude of the mind could have arisen had it not been
+justified. But as for information, they had the Press ... a free Press!"
+Here he fell into a reverie, so powerfully did his supposed memories
+affect him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was willing to lead him on, because this kind of illness is best met
+by sympathy, and also because I was not uninterested to discover how his
+own trade had affected him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You would hardly understand it," he said sadly; "what you hear from me
+is nothing but words.... I wish I could have shown you one of those
+great houses with information pouring in as rapid, as light, and as
+clear, from every hidden corner of the world, digested by master brains
+into the most lucid and terse presentment of it possible, and then
+whirled out on great wheels to be distributed by the thousand and the
+hundred thousand, to the hungry intelligence of Europe. There was
+nothing escaped it--nothing. In every capital were crowds of men
+dispatched from the other capitals of our civilization, moving with ease
+in the wealthiest houses, and exquisitely in touch with the most
+delicate phases of national life everywhere. And these men were such
+experts in selection that a picture of Europe as a whole was presented
+every morning to each particular part of Europe; and nowhere was this
+more successfully accomplished than in my own beloved town of London."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It must have been useful," I said, "not only for the political purposes
+you describe, but also for investors. Indeed, I should imagine that the
+two things ran together."
+
+"You are right," he said with interest, "the wide knowledge which even
+the poorest of the people possessed upon foreign affairs, through the
+action of the Press, was, further, of the utmost and most beneficent
+effect in teaching even the smallest proprietor what he need do with his
+capital. A discovery of metallic ore--especially of gold--a new
+invention, anything which might require development, was at once
+presented in its most exact aspect to the reader."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It was probably upon that account," said I, "that property was so
+equally distributed, and that so general a prosperity reigned as you
+have often described to me."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You are right," said he; "it was mainly this accurate and universal
+daily information which produced such excellent results."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But it occurs to me," said I, by way of stimulating his conversation
+with an objection, "that if so passionate and tenacious a habit of
+telling the exact truth upon innumerable things was present in this old
+institution of which you speak, it cannot but have bred a certain amount
+of dissension, and it must sometimes even have done definite harm to
+individuals whose private actions were thus exposed."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You are right," said he; "the danger of such misfortunes was always
+present, and with the greatest desire in the world to support only what
+was worthy the writers of the journals of which I speak would
+occasionally blunder against private interests; but there was a remedy."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What was that?" I asked.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, the law provided that in this matter twelve men called a jury,
+instructed by a judge, after the matter had been fully explained to them
+by two other men whose business it was to examine the truth boldly for
+the sake of justice--I say the law provided that the twelve men after
+this process should decide whether the person injured should receive
+money from the newspaper or no, and if so, in what amount. And, lest
+there should still be any manner of doubt, the judge was permitted to
+set aside their verdict if he thought it unjust. To secure his absolute
+impartiality as between rich and poor he was paid somewhat over 100 a
+week, a large salary in those days, and he was further granted the right
+of imprisoning people at will or of taking away their property if he
+believed them to obstruct his judgment. Nor were these the only
+safeguards. For in the case of very rich men, to whom justice might not
+be done on account of the natural envy of their poorer fellow-citizens,
+it was arranged that the jury should consist only of rich men. In this
+way it was absolutely certain that a complete impartiality would reign.
+We shall never see those days again," he concluded.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But do you not think," I said before I left him, "that the social
+perfection of the kind you have described must rather have been due to
+some spirit of the time than to particular institutions? For after all
+the zealous love of justice and the sense of duty which you describe are
+not social elements to be produced by laws."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Possibly," he said, wearily, "possibly, but we shall never see it
+again!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And I left him looking into the fire with infinite sadness and
+reflecting upon his lost youth and the year 1909: a pathetic figure, and
+one whose upkeep during the period of his deficiency was a very serious
+drain upon the resources of his family.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="inheritance">The Inheritance of Humour</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+There are some truths which seem to get old almost as soon as they are
+born, and that simply because they are so astonishingly true that people
+soon get to feel as though they have known them all their lives; and
+such a truth is that which first one writer and then another in the last
+five years has been insisting upon, until it is already a perfect
+commonplace that nations do not know their own qualities. The inmost,
+the characteristic thing, that which differentiates one community from
+another, as tastes or colours differentiate things--<i>that</i> a
+nation hardly ever knows until it is pointed out to it by some foreigner
+or by some observer from within. It cannot know it, because one cannot
+tell the very atmosphere in which one lives. It is universal and
+therefore unnoticed. Now, if this is true of any nation, it is
+particularly true of England. And English people need to be told
+morning, noon, and night, not indeed the particular national
+characteristic which they have, since for this no particular name could
+be found, but rather what its evidences are; as, for instance,
+spontaneity in design, a passion for the mystical in poetry and the
+arts; a power in water-colour, in which they are perhaps quite alone,
+and certainly the first in Europe; and, above all, the chief, the master
+thing of all, humour.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is not nor ever will be anything like English humour. It is a
+thing quite apart, and by it for now more than two hundred years you may
+know England. It does not puzzle the foreigner (as the more blatant kind
+of intellectual man is too fond of boasting that it does); he simply
+admires it as a rule and wonders at it always; sometimes he actually
+dislikes it, but by it he knows that the thing he is reading is English
+and has the savour and taste of England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is impossible to define it, because it is so full of stuff and so
+organic a quality; but in our own time it was principally the pencil of
+Charles Keene that has summed it up and presented it in a moment and at
+once to the eye--the pencil of Charles Keene and that profound instinct
+whereby he chose the legends for his drawing, whether he found them by
+his own sympathy with the people or whether they were suggested to him
+by friends.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is the verdict of the men most competent perhaps to judge upon these
+things that he had the greatest graphic power of his time, and that no
+one had had that power to such an extent since Hogarth. Upon these
+things the men of the trade must dispute; the layman cannot doubt that
+he had here a genius and a genius comprehensively national. It is the
+essence of a good draughtsman that what he wants to draw, that he draws.
+The line that he desires to see upon the paper appears there as his
+fingers move. It is a quality extremely rare in its perfection. And
+Charles Keene had it in perfection, as in totally different manner had
+the offensive and diseased talent of Beardsley.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But more important than the power to do is the quality of the thing
+done, and the work of Charles Keene, multitudinous, varied, always
+great, is an inheritance for English people comparable to the
+inheritance they have in Dickens. It has also what Dickens had, a power
+of representing, as it were, the essential English. Just that which
+makes people say (with some truth) that Dickens never drew a gentleman
+would make them say with equal truth that what was interesting in the
+gentlemen of Charles Keene (and he perpetually drew them) was not the
+externals upon which gentlemen so pride themselves, but the soul. Thus I
+have in mind one picture wherein Keene drew a gentleman; true, he was a
+gentleman who had just swallowed a bad oyster, and therefore he was a
+man as well. I recall another of an old gentleman complaining of the
+caterpillar on his chop: he is a gentleman of the professional rather
+than the territorial classes, and, great heavens! what a power of line!
+All you see beneath the round of his hat is the end of his nose, the
+curve of his mouth, and two bushy ends of whiskers. Yet one can tell all
+about that man; one could write a book on him. One knows his economics,
+his religion, his accent, and what he thought of the Third Napoleon and
+what of Garibaldi. I have called draughtsmanship of this quality an
+inheritance--I might have called it perhaps with better propriety a
+monument. It is possible that England in the near future will look back
+with great envy, as she will certainly look back with great pride, to
+the generation preceding our own: they were a solid and a happy
+community of men. How much they owed to fortune, how much to themselves,
+it is not the place of such random stuff as mine to consider.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They were nearly impregnable in their island; they were not bellicose.
+They made and sold for all the world. Whether the very different future
+which we are now entering is to be laid to their door or to our own,
+that generation will still remain one of the principal things in English
+history, like the Elizabethan generation, or the group of men who
+organized the Seven Years' War, or the group of men who fought in the
+Peninsula. And of that generation the note of health and of stability is
+represented by its humour. I am not sure that of all things educational
+to young men with no personal memory of that time, and especially to
+young men with no family tradition of it to reflect it in their books
+and their furniture; and--this yet more particularly--to young men born
+out of England yet claiming communion with England, the Anglo-Indians
+and the Colonials--I am not sure, I say, that the thing most educational
+to these would not be some hundred of Charles Keene's drawings, for
+therein they would find what it was that gave them the power and the
+wealth that can hardly be defended unless its traditions are continued.
+Note how Victorian England dealt with the humour of a Volunteer review;
+note how it dealt with the humour of excessive wealth; and note how it
+dealt with the humour of schools and of Dons. One might almost define it
+by negations. There is in all of it no--but here I lack a word.... When
+things ring false it is because they have got by exaggeration or by some
+other form of falsity <i>beside</i> themselves. Appreciation of rank or
+even of worth becomes snobbishness; appreciation of another's judgment
+false taste; and patriotism, the most beautiful, the noblest, the most
+necessary of the great emotions, corrupts into something very vile
+indeed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, the Victorians, and notably this man of whose power of the pencil
+I am speaking, did lack that false savour, that savour of just missing
+what one wishes to say or to feel, which haunts us to-day; and I should
+imagine that whether it were cause or effect the salt present in the
+preservation of the moral health of that society was humour. Let us
+enjoy it like an heirloom. It is more national than the language; at
+least it is more national than what the language has become under
+foreign pressure; it is infinitely more national than our problems and
+our tragedies. It is so national that--who knows?--it may crop up again
+of itself one of these days; and may that not be long.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="old">The Old Gentleman's Opinions</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+I had occasion about a fortnight ago to meet a man more nearly ninety
+than eighty years of age, who had had special opportunity for
+discovering the changes of Europe during his long life. He was of the
+English wealthier classes by lineage, but his mother had been of the
+French nobility and a Huguenot. His father had been prominent in the
+diplomacy of a couple of generations ago. He had travelled widely, read
+perhaps less widely, but had known and appreciated an astonishing number
+of his contemporaries.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was interested (without any power of my own to judge whether his
+decisions were right or wrong) to discover what most struck him in the
+changes produced by that great stretch of years, all of which he had
+personally observed: he was born just after Waterloo, and he could
+remember the Reform Bill.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He surprised me by telling me, in the first place, that the material
+changes and discoveries, enormous though they were in extent, were not,
+in his view, the most striking. He was ready to leave it open whether
+these material changes were the causes of moral changes more remarkable,
+or merely effects concomitant with these. When I asked him what had
+struck him most of the great material developments, he told me the
+phonograph and the aeroplane among inventions; Mendel's observations in
+the sphere of experimental knowledge; and, in the sphere of pure theory,
+the breakdown of many things that had been dogmas of physical science in
+his early manhood.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Since I did not quite understand what he meant by this last, he gave me,
+after some hesitation, a few examples: That the interior of the earth
+was molten; that a certain limited number of elements--not all yet
+isolated, but certainly few in their total--were at the base of all
+material forms, and were immutable; that the ultimate unit of each of
+these was a certain indivisible, eternal thing called the Atom; and so
+forth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He assured me that views of this sort, extending over a hundred or a
+thousand other points, were so universally accepted in his time that to
+dispute them was to be ranked with the unlettered or the fantastic. I
+asked him if it were so in economics. He said: Yes, in England, where
+there was a similar dogma of Free Trade: not abroad.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I asked him why Mendel's published experiments and the theory based
+upon them had so much impressed him, he said because it was almost the
+first attempt to apply to the speculative dogmas of biology some
+standard demonstrably true; and here he wandered off to explain to me
+why the commonly accepted views upon biology, which had so changed
+thought in the latter part of his life, were associated with the name of
+Darwin. Darwin, he assured me, had brought forward no new discovery, but
+only a new hypothesis, and that only a small and particular hypothesis,
+whereby to explain the general theory of transformism. This theory, he
+told me--the unbroken descent of living organisms and their physical
+connection with one another and with common parents--had been a
+favourite idea from the beginning of history with many great thinkers,
+from Lucretius to Buffon and from Augustus of Hippo to Lamarck.
+Darwin's, the old gentleman assured me, which he had defended with
+infinite toil, was that the method in which this continuity of descent
+proceeded was by an infinitely slow process of very small changes
+differentiating each minute step from the one before and the one after
+it, and these small changes Darwin's hypothesis referred to a natural
+selection. Nothing else in Darwin's work, he assured me, was novel, and
+yet it was the one thing which subsequent research had rendered more and
+more doubtful. Darwin (he said) said nothing new that was also true.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At this point I was moved to contradict the old gentleman, and to say
+that one unquestioned contribution to science of Darwin, as novel as it
+was secure, was his patient discovery of the work of earthworms, and of
+its vast effect. The old gentleman was willing to admit that I was
+right, but he said he was only speaking of Darwin in connection with
+transformism and the whimsical way in which his private name (and his
+errors) had become identified with evolution in general.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I asked him, since he had such a knowledge of men from observation, why
+this was so.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It seems at first sight," he said, "as ridiculous as though we should
+associate the theory of light with the name of Newton, who inclined to
+the exploded corpuscular hypothesis, or the general conception of
+orbital motion in the universe to the great Bacon, who, in point of
+fact, rudely repudiated the Copernican theory in particular."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Did he, indeed?" said I, interested.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I believe so," said the old gentleman; "at any rate you were asking me
+why Darwin, with his single contribution to the theory of transformism,
+and that a doubtful one--or, to be accurate, an exploded one--should be
+associated in the popular mind with the invention of so ancient a theory
+as that of evolution. The reason is, I think, no more than that he came
+at a particular moment when any man doing great quantities of detailed
+work in this field was bound to stand out exaggeratedly. The society in
+which he appeared had, until just before his day, accepted a narrow
+cosmogony, quite unknown to its ancestors. Darwin's book certainly
+exploded that, and the mind of his time--ignorant as it was of the
+past--was ready to accept the shattering of its father's idols as a new
+revelation."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But you were saying," said I, when he had thus dealt harshly with a
+great name, "that not the material but the moral changes of your time
+seemed to you the greatest. Which did you mean?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why, in the first place," said the old man thoughtfully and with some
+hesitation, "the curiously rapid decline of intelligence, or if you will
+have it differently, the clouding of thought that has marked the last
+thirty years. Men in my youth knew what they held and what they did not
+hold. They knew why they held it or why they did not hold it; but the
+attempt to enjoy the advantages of two contradictory systems at the same
+time, and, what is worse, the consulting of a man as an authority upon
+subjects he had never professed to know, are intellectual phenomena
+quite peculiar to the later years of my life."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I said we of the younger generation had all noticed it, as, for
+instance, when an honest but imperfectly intelligent chemist was
+listened to in his exposition of the nature of the soul, or a well-paid
+religious official was content to expound the consolations of
+Christianity while denying that Christianity was true.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"But," I continued, "we are usually told that this unfortunate decline
+in the express powers of the brain is due to the wide and imperfect
+education of the populace at the present moment."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"That is not the case," answered the old man sharply, when I had made
+myself clear by repeating my remarks in a louder tone, for he was a
+little deaf.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"That is not the case. The follies of which I speak are not particularly
+to be discovered among the poorer classes who have passed through the
+elementary schools. <i>These</i>" (it was to the schools that he was
+alluding with a comprehensive pessimism) "may account for the gross
+decline apparent in the public manners of our people, but not for faults
+which are peculiar to the upper and middle classes. It is not in the
+populace, but in those wealthier ranks that you will find the sort of
+intellectual decay of which I spoke."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I asked him whether he thought the tricks it was now considered cultured
+to play with mathematics came within the category of this intellectual
+decay. The old gentleman answered me a little abruptly that he could not
+judge what I was talking about.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Why," said I, "do you believe that parallel straight lines
+<i>converge</i> or <i>diverge</i>?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Neither," said he, a little bewildered. "If they are parallel they
+cannot by definition either diverge or converge."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You are, then," said I, "an old-fashioned adherent of the theory of the
+parabolic universe?" At which sensible reply of mine the old man
+muttered rather ill-temperedly, and begged me to speak of something
+else.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I asked him whether the knowledge of languages had not declined in his
+time. He said, somewhat emphatically, yes, and especially the knowledge
+of French, assuring me that in his early years many a Fellow of a
+College at Oxford or at Cambridge was capable of speaking that tongue in
+such a fashion as to make himself understood. On the other hand, he
+admitted that German and Spanish were more widely known than they had
+been, and Arabic certainly far more widely diffused among those
+officials of the Empire who took their work seriously.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I asked him whether politics were more corrupt as time proceeded,
+he said No, but more cynical; and as to morals he would not judge, for
+he was certain that as one vice was corrected another appeared in its
+place.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What he told me he most deplored in the social system of his country was
+the power of the police and of the statistician by whom the policeman
+was guided. This he ascribed to the growth of great towns, to civic
+cowardice, and to a new taboo laid upon uniformed and labelled public
+authorities, who are now regarded as sacred, and also inordinately
+feared.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"In my youth," he said, "there was a joke that every man in Paris was
+known to the police. Today that is universally true, and no joke with
+regard to every man in London. Our movements are marked, our earnings,
+our expenses, and our most private affairs known to the innumerable
+officials of the Treasury, our records of every sort, however intimate,
+are exactly and correctly maintained. The obtaining of work and a
+livelihood is dependent upon strong organizations. There is hardly an
+ailment or a domestic habit, from drinking wine to eating turnips, which
+some crank who has obtained the ear of a politician does not control or
+threaten in the immediate future to control."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"As for doctors!" he began, his voice cracking with indignation, "their
+abominable...." but here the old gentleman fell into so violent a fit of
+coughing that he nearly turned black in the face, and when I
+respectfully slapped him on the back, in the hopes of granting him
+relief, he made matters worse by shaking himself at me with an energy
+worthy of 1842. His nurse rushed in, clapped him upon his pillows, and
+was prepared to vent her wrath upon me for having caused this paroxysm,
+when the old man's exhaustion and laboured breathing captured all her
+attention, and I had the opportunity to withdraw.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="historical">On Historical Evidence</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+The last book to be published upon the last Dauphin of France set me
+thinking upon what seems to me the chief practical science in which
+modern men should secure themselves. I mean the science of history--and
+in this science almost all lies in the appreciation of evidence, for one
+of the chief particular problems presented to the student of history at
+the present moment is whether the Dauphin did or did not survive his
+imprisonment in the Temple.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Let me first say why, to so many of us, the science of history and the
+appreciation of the evidence upon which it depends is of the first
+moment. It is because, short of vision or revelation, history is our
+only extension of human experience. It is true that a philosophy common
+to all citizens is necessary for a State if it is to, live--but short
+of that necessity the next most necessary factor is a knowledge of the
+stuff of mankind: of how men act under certain conditions and impulses.
+This knowledge may be acquired, and is in some measure, during the
+experience of one wise lifetime, but it is indefinitely extended by the
+accumulation of experience which history affords.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And what history so gives us is always of immediate and practical
+moment.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For instance, men sometimes speak with indifference of the rival
+theories as to the origin of European land tenure; they talk as though
+it were a mere academic debate whether the conception of private
+property in land arose comparatively late among Europeans or was native
+and original in our race. But you have only to watch a big popular
+discussion on that very great and at the present moment very living
+issue, the moral right to the private ownership in land, to see how
+heavily the historic argument weighs with every type of citizen. The
+instinct that gives that argument weight is a sound one, and not less
+sound in those who have least studied the matter than in those who have
+most studied it; for if our race from its immemorial origins has desired
+to own land as a private thing side by side with communal tenures, then
+it is pretty certain that we shall not modify that intention, however
+much we change our laws. If, on the other hand, it could be shown that
+before the advent of a complex civilization Europeans had no conception
+of private property in land, but treated land as a thing necessarily and
+always communal, then you could ascribe modern Socialist theories with
+regard to the land to that general movement of harking back to the
+origins which Europe has been assisting at through over a hundred years
+of revolution and of change.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It sounds cynical, but it is perfectly true, that much the largest
+factor in the historical conception of men is assertion. It is literally
+true that when men (with the exception of a very small proportion of
+scholars who are also intelligent) consider the past, the picture on which
+they dwell is a picture conveyed to them wholly by authority and by
+unquestioned authority. There was never a time when the original sources
+of history were more easily to be consulted by the plain man; but whether
+because of their very number, or because the habit is not yet formed, or
+because there are traditions of imaginary difficulty surrounding such
+reading, original sources were perhaps never less familiar to fairly
+educated opinion than they are today; and therefore no type of book gives
+more pleasure when one comes across it than those little cheap books, now
+becoming fairly numerous, in which the original sources, and the
+original sources alone, are put before the reader. Mr. Rait has already
+done such work in connection with Mary Queen of Scots, and Mr. Archer
+did it admirably in connection with the Third Crusade.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But apart from the importance of consulting original sources--which is
+like hearing the very witnesses themselves in court--there is a factor
+in historical judgment which by some unhappy accident is peculiarly
+lacking in the professional historian. It is a factor to which no
+particular name can be attached, though it may be called a department of
+common sense. But it is a mental power or attitude easily recognizable
+in those who possess it, and perhaps atrophied by the very atmosphere of
+the study. It goes with the open air with a general knowledge of men and
+with that rapid recognition of the way in which things "fit in" which is
+necessarily developed by active life.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For instance, when you know the pace at which Harold marched down from
+the north to Hastings you recognize, if you use that factor of historic
+judgment of which I spake, that the affair was not barbaric. There must
+have been fairly good roads, and there must have been a high
+organization of transport. You have only to consider for a moment what a
+column looks like, even if it be only a brigade, to see the truth of
+that. Again, this type of judgment forbids anyone who uses it to ascribe
+great popular movements (great massacres, great turmoils, and so forth)
+to craft. It is a very common thing, especially in modern history, to
+lay such things to the power of one or two wealthy or one or two bloody
+leaders, but you have only to think for a few moments of what a mob is
+to see the falsity of that. Craft can harness this sort of explosive
+force, it can control it, or persuade it, or canalize it to certain
+issues, but it cannot create it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Again, this sort of sense easily recognizes in historic types the
+parallels of modern experience. It avoids the error of thinking history
+a mistake and making of the men and women who appear there something
+remote from humanity, extreme, and either stilted or grandiose.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In aid of this last feature in historical judgment there is nothing of
+such permanent value as a portrait. Obtain your conception (as, indeed,
+most boys do) of the English early sixteenth century from a text, then
+go and live with the Holbeins for a week and see what an enormously
+greater thing you will possess at the end of it. It is indeed one of the
+misfortunes of European history that from the fifth century to at least
+the eleventh we are, so far as Western European history is concerned,
+deprived of portraits. And by an interesting parallel the writers of the
+dark time seemed to have had neither the desire nor the gift of vivid
+description. Consider the dreariness of the hagiographers, every one of
+them boasting the noble rank and the conventional status of his hero,
+and you may say not one giving the least conception of the man's
+personality. You have the great Gallo-Roman noble family of Ferreolus
+running down the centuries from the Decline of the Empire to the climax
+of Charlemagne. Many of those names stand for some most powerful
+individuality, yet all we have is a formula, a lineage, with symbols and
+names in the place of living beings, and even that established only by
+careful work, picking out and sifting relationships from various lives.
+The men of that time did not even think to tell us that there was such a
+thing as a family tradition, nor did it seem important to them to
+establish its Roman origin and its long succession in power.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Next it must be protested that the smallness and particularity of the
+questions upon which historical discussion rages are no proof either of
+its general purposelessness nor of <i>their</i> insignificance. All
+advance of knowledge proceeds in this fashion. Physical science affords
+innumerable examples of the way in which progress has depended upon a
+curiosity directed towards apparently insignificant things, and there is
+something in the mind which compels it to select a narrow field for the
+exercise of its acutest powers. Moreover, special points, discussion
+upon which must evidently be lengthy and may be indefinite, are
+peculiarly attractive to just that kind of man who by a love of
+prolonged research enlarges the bounds of knowledge and at the same time
+strengthens and improves for his fellows by continual exercise all the
+instruments of their common trade. Take, for instance, this case of the
+little Dauphin, Louis XVII. It really does not matter to day whether the
+boy got away or whether he died in prison. It does not prolong the line
+of the Capetians--the heir to that is present in the Duke of Orleans. It
+does not even affect our view of any other considerable part of
+history--save possibly the policy of Louis XVIII--and it is of no direct
+interest to our pockets or to our affections. Yet the masses of work
+which have accumulated round that one doubt have solved twenty other
+doubts. They have illuminated all the close of the Terror; they are
+beginning to make us understand that most difficult piece of political
+psychology, the reaction of Thermidor, and with it how Europeans lose
+their balance and regain it in the course of their quasi-religious wars;
+for all our wars have something in them of religion.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Three elements appear to enter into the judgment of history. First,
+there is the testimony of human witnesses; next, there are the non-human
+boundaries wherein the action took place, boundaries which, by all our
+experience, impose fixed limits to action; thirdly, there is that
+indefinable thing, that mystic power, which all nations deriving from
+the theology of the Western Church have agreed to call, with the
+schoolman, <i>common sense</i>; a general appreciation which transcends
+particular appreciations and which can integrate the differentials of
+evidence. Of this last it is quite impossible to afford a test or to
+construct a measure; its presence in an argument is none the less as
+readily felt as fresh air in a room; without it nothing is convincing
+however laboured, with it, even though it rely upon slight evidence, one
+has the feeling of walking on a firm road. But it must be "common
+sense"--it must be of the sort, that is, which is common to man various
+and general, and it is in this perhaps that history suffers most from
+the charlatanism and ritual common to all great matters.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Men will have pomp and mystery surrounding important things, and
+therefore the historians must, consciously or unconsciously, tend to
+strut, to quote solemn authorities in support, and to make out the
+vulgar unworthy of their confidence. Hence, by the way, the plague of
+footnotes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+These had their origin in two sources: the desire to show that one was
+honest and to prove it by a reference; the desire to elucidate some
+point which it was not easy to elucidate in the text itself without
+making the sentence too elaborate and clumsy. Either use may be seen at
+its best in Gibbon. With the last generation they have served mainly,
+and sometimes merely, for ritual adornment and terror, not to make
+clearer or more honest, but to deceive. Thus Taine in his monstrously
+false history of the Revolution revels in footnotes; you have but to
+examine a batch of them with care to turn them completely against his
+own conclusions--they are only put there as a sort of spiked paling to
+warn off trespassers. Or, again, M. Thibaut, who writes under the name
+of "Anatole France," gives footnotes by the score in his romance of Joan
+of Arc, apparently not even caring to examine whether they so much as
+refer to his text, let alone support it. They seem to have been done by
+contract.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Another ailment in this department is the negative one, whereby an
+historian will leave out some aspect which to him, cramped in a study,
+seems unimportant, but which any plain man moving in the world would
+have told him to be the essential aspect of the whole matter. For
+instance, when Napoleon left Madrid on his forced march to intercept Sir
+John Moore before that general should have reached Benevente, he thought
+Moore was at Valladolid, when as a fact he was at Sahagun. In Mr. Oman's
+history of the Peninsular War the error is put thus: "Napoleon had not
+the comparatively easy task of cutting the road between Valladolid and
+Astorga, but the much harder one of intercepting that between Sahagun
+and Astorga."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Why is this egregious nonsense? The facts are right and so are the dates
+and the names, yet it makes one blush for Oxford history. Why? Because
+the all-important element of <i>distance</i> is omitted. The very first
+question a plain man would ask about the case would be, "What were the
+distances involved?" The academic historian doesn't know, or, at least,
+doesn't say; yet without an appreciation of the distances the statement
+has no value. As a fact the distances were such that in the first case
+(supposing Moore had been at Valladolid) Napoleon would have had to
+cover nearly three miles to Moore's one to intercept him--an almost
+superhuman task. In the second case (Moore being as a fact at Sahagun)
+he would have had to go over <i>four miles</i> to his opponent's one--an
+absolutely impossible feat.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To march <i>three</i> miles to the enemy's <i>one</i> is what Mr. Oman
+calls "a comparatively easy task"; to march four to his one is what Mr.
+Oman calls a "much harder" task; and to write like that is what an
+informed critic calls bad history.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The other two factors in an historical judgment can be more easily
+measured.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The non-human elements which, as I have said, are irremovable (save to
+miracle), are topography, climate, season, local physical conditions,
+and so forth. They have two valuable characters in aid of history; the
+first is that they correct the errors of human memory and support the
+accuracy of details; the second is that they enable us to complete a
+picture. We can by their aid "see" the physical framework in which an
+action took place, and such a landscape helps the judgment of things
+past as it does of things contemporary. Thus the map, the date, the
+soil, the contours of Crcy field make the traditional spot at which the
+King of Bohemia fell doubtful; the same factors make it certain that
+Drouet did not plunge haphazard through Argonne on the night of June 21,
+1791, but that he must have gone by one path--which can be determined.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Or, again, take that prime question, why the Prussians did not charge at
+Valmy. On their failure to do so all the success of the Revolution
+turned. A man may read Dumouriez, Kellermann, Pully, Botidoux,
+Massenback, Goethe--there are fifty eye-witnesses at least whose
+evidence we can collect, and I defy anyone to decide. (Brunswick himself
+never knew.) But go to that roll of land between Valmy and the high
+road; go after three days' rain as the allies did, and you will
+immediately learn. That field between the heights of "The Moon" and the
+site of old Valmy mill, which is as hard as a brick in summer (when the
+experts visit it), is a marsh of the worst under an autumn drizzle; no
+one could have charged.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As for human testimony, three things appear: first, that the witness is
+not, as in a law court, circumscribed. His relation may vary infinitely
+in degree of proximity of time or space to the action, from that of an
+eye-witness writing within the hour to that of a partisan writing at
+tenth hand a lifetime after. That question of proximity comes first,
+from the known action of the human mind whereby it transforms colours
+and changes remembered things. Next there is the character of the
+witness <i>for the purposes of his testimony</i>. Historians write, too
+often, as though virtue--or wealth (with which they often confound
+it)--were the test. It is not, short of a known motive for lying; a
+murderer or a thief casually witnessing to a thing with which he is
+familiar is worth more than the best man witnessing in a matter which he
+understands ill. It was this error which ruined Croker's essay on
+Charlotte Robespierre's Memoirs. Croker thought, perhaps wisely, that
+all radicals were scoundrels; he could not accept her editor's evidence,
+and (by the way) the view of this amateur collector without a tincture
+of historical scholarship actually imposed itself on Europe for nearly
+seventy years!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And the third character in the witness is support: the support upon
+converging lines of other human testimony, most of it indifferent, some
+(this is essential) casual and by the way--deprived therefore of motive.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I shall find these canons satisfied to oppose the strong
+probability and tradition of the Dauphin's death in prison I shall doubt
+that death, but not before.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="absence">The Absence of the Past</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+It is perhaps not possible to put into human language that emotion
+which rises when a man stands upon some plot of European soil and can
+say with certitude to himself: "Such and such great, or wonderful, or
+beautiful things happened here."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Touch that emotion ever so lightly and it tumbles into the commonplace,
+and the deadest of commonplace. Neglect it ever so little and the
+Present (which is never really there, for even as you walk across
+Trafalgar Square it is yesterday and tomorrow that are in your mind),
+the Present, I say, or rather the immediate flow of things, occupies you
+altogether. But there is a mood, and it is a mood common in men who have
+read and who have travelled, in which one is overwhelmed by the sanctity
+of a place on which men have done this or that a long, long time ago.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here it is that the gentle supports which have been framed for human
+life by that power which launched it come in and help a man. Time does
+not remain, but space does, and though we cannot seize the Past
+physically we can stand physically upon the site, and we can have (if I
+may so express myself) a physical communion with the Past by occupying
+that very spot which the past greatness of man or of event has occupied.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was but the other day that, with an American friend at my side, I
+stood looking at the little brass plate which says that here Charles
+Stuart faced (he not only faced, but he refused) the authority of his
+judges. I know not by what delicate mechanism of the soul that record
+may seem at one moment a sort of tourist thing, to be neglected or
+despised, and at another moment a portent. But I will confess that all
+of a sudden, pointing out this very well-known record upon the brass let
+into the stone in Westminster Hall, I suddenly felt the presence of the
+thing. Here all that business was done: they were alive; they were in
+the Present as we are. Here sat that tender-faced, courageous man, with
+his pointed beard and his luminous eyes; here he was a living man
+holding his walking-stick with the great jewel in the handle of it; here
+was spoken in the very tones of his voice (and how a human voice
+perishes!--how we forget the accents of the most loved and the most
+familiar voices within a few days of their disappearance!); here the
+small gestures, and all the things that make up a personality, marked
+out Charles Stuart. When the soul is seized with such sudden and
+positive conviction of the substantial past it is overwhelmed; and
+Europe is full of such ghosts.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As you take the road to Paradise, about halfway there you come to an
+inn, which even as inns go is admirable. You go into the garden of it,
+and see the great trees and the wall of Box Hill shrouding you all
+around. It is beautiful enough (in all conscience) to arrest one without
+the need of history or any admixture of the pride of race; but as you
+sit there on a seat in that garden you are sitting where Nelson sat when
+he said goodbye to his Emma, and if you will move a yard or two you will
+be sitting where Keats sat biting his pen and thinking out some new line
+of his poem.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What has happened? These two men with their keen, feminine faces, these
+two great heroes of a great time in the great story of a great people of
+this world, are not there. They are nowhere. But the site remains.
+
+Philosophers can put in formulae the crowd of suggestions that rush into
+the mind when one's soul contemplates the perpetual march and passage of
+mortality. But they can do no more than give us formularies: they cannot
+give us replies. What are we? What is all this business? Why does the
+mere space remain and all the rest dissolve?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is a lonely place in the woods of Chilham, in the County of Kent,
+above the River Stour, where a man comes upon an irregular earthwork
+still plainly marked upon the brow of the bluff. Nobody comes near this
+place. A vague country lane, or rather track; goes past the wet soil of
+it, plunges into the valley beyond, and after serving a windmill joins
+the high road to Canterbury. Well, that vague track is the ancient
+British road, as old as anything in this Island, that took men from
+Winchester to the Straits of Dover. That earthwork is the earthwork (I
+could prove it, but this is not the place) where the British stood
+against the charge of the Tenth Legion, and first heard, sounding on
+their bronze, the arms of Caesar. Here the river was forded; here the
+little men of the South went up in formation; here the Barbarian broke
+and took his way, as the opposing General has recorded, through devious
+woodland paths, scattering in the pursuit; here began the great history
+of England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Is it not an enormous business merely to stand in such a place? I think
+so.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I know a field to the left of the Chalons Road, some few miles before
+you get to Ste. Menehould. There used to be an inn by the roadside
+called "The Sign of the Moon." It has disappeared. There used to be a
+ramshackle windmill beyond the field, a mile or so from the road, on an
+upland swell of land, but that also has gone, and had been gone for some
+time before I knew the field of which I write. It is a bare fold of land
+with one or two little scrubby spinneys alongside the plough. And for
+the rest, just the brown earth and the sky. There are days on which you
+will see a man at work somewhere within that mile, others on which it is
+completely deserted. Here it is that the French Revolution was
+preserved. Here was the Prussian charge. On the deserted, ugly lump of
+empty earth beyond you were the three batteries that checked the
+invaders. It was all alive and crowded for one intense moment with the
+fate of Christendom. Here, on the place in which you are standing and
+gazing, young Goethe stood and gazed. That meaningless stretch of coarse
+grass supported Brunswick and the King of Prussia, and the brothers of
+the King of France, as they stood windswept in the rain, watching the
+failure of the charge. It is the field of Valmy. Turn on that height and
+look back westward and you see the plains rolling out infinitely; they
+are the plains upon which Attila was crushed; but there is no one there.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All men have remarked that night and silence are august, and I think
+that if this quality in night and silence be closely examined it will be
+found to consist, in part at least, in this: that either of them
+symbolizes Absence. By a paradox which I will not attempt to explain,
+but which all have felt, it is in silence and in darkness that the Past
+most vividly returns, and that this absence of what once was possesses,
+nay, obtrudes itself upon the mind: it becomes almost a sensible thing.
+There is much to be said for those who pretend, imagine, or perhaps have
+experienced under such conditions the return of the dead. The mood of
+darkness and of silence is a mood crammed with something that does not
+remain, as space remains, that is limited by time, and is a creature of
+time, and yet something that has an immortal right to remain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now, I suppose that in that sentence where I say things mortal have
+immortal rights to permanence, the core of the whole business is touched
+upon. And I suppose that the great men who could really think and did
+not merely fire off fireworks to dazzle their contemporaries--I suppose
+that Descartes, for instance, if he were here sitting at my table--could
+help me to solve that contradiction; but I sit and think and cannot
+solve it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What," says the man upon his own land, inherited perhaps and certainly
+intended for his posterity--"what! Can you separate me from this? Are
+not this and I bound up inextricably?" The answer is "No; you are not so
+far as any observer of this world can discover. Space is in no way
+possessed by man, and he who may render a site immortal in one of our
+various ways, the captain who there conquered, the poet who there
+established his sequence of words, cannot himself put forward a claim to
+permanence within it at all."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was a woman of charming vivacity, whose eyes were ever ready for
+laughter, and whose tone of address of itself provoked the noblest of
+replies. Many loved her; all admired. She passed (I will suppose) by
+this street or by that; she sat at table in such and such a house;
+Gainsborough painted her; and all that time ago there were men who had
+the luck to meet her and to answer her laughter with their own. And the
+house where she moved is there and the street in which she walked, and
+the very furniture she used and touched with her hands you may touch
+with your hands. You shall come into the rooms that she inhabited, and
+there you shall see her portrait, all light and movement and grace and
+beatitude.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+She is gone altogether, the voice will never return, the gestures will
+never be seen again. She was under a law; she changed, she suffered, she
+grew old, she died; and there was her place left empty. The not living
+things remain; but what counted, what gave rise to them, what made them
+all that they are, has pitifully disappeared, and the greater, the
+infinitely greater, thing was subject to a doom perpetually of change
+and at last of vanishing. The dead surroundings are not subject to such
+a doom. Why?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All those boys who held the line of the low ridge or rather swell of
+land from Hougoumont through the Belle Alliance have utterly gone. More
+than dust goes, more than wind goes; they will never be seen again.
+Their voices will never be heard--they are not. But what is the mere
+soil of the field without them? What meaning has it save for their
+presence?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I could wish to understand these things.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="st">St. Patrick</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+If there is one thing that people who are not Catholic have gone wrong
+upon more than another in the intellectual things of life, it is the
+conception of a Personality. They are muddled about it where their own
+little selves are concerned, they misappreciate it when they deal with
+the problems of society, and they have a very weak hold of it when they
+consider (if they do consider) the nature of Almighty God.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now, personality is everything. It was a Personal Will that made all
+things, visible and invisible. Our hope of immortality resides in this,
+that we are persons, and half our frailties proceed from a
+misapprehension of the awful responsibilities which personality involves
+or a cowardly ignorance of its powers of self-government.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The hundred and one errors which this main error leads to include a bad
+error on the nature of history. Your modern non-Catholic or
+anti-Catholic historian is always misunderstanding, underestimating, or
+muddling the role played in the affairs of men by great and individual
+Personalities. That is why he is so lamentably weak upon the function of
+legend; that is why he makes a fetish of documentary evidence and has no
+grip upon the value of tradition. For traditions spring from some
+personality invariably, and the function of legend, whether it be a
+rigidly true legend or one tinged with make-believe, is to interpret
+Personality. Legends have vitality and continue, because in their origin
+they so exactly serve to explain or illustrate some personal character
+in a man which no cold statement could give.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now St. Patrick, the whole story and effect of him, is a matter of
+Personality. There was once--twenty or thirty years ago--a whole school
+of dunderheads who wondered whether St. Patrick ever existed, because
+the mass of legends surrounding his name troubled them. How on earth
+(one wonders) do such scholars consider their fellow-beings! Have they
+ever seen a crowd cheering a popular hero, or noticed the expression
+upon men's faces when they spoke of some friend of striking power
+recently dead? A great growth of legends around a man is the very best
+proof you could have not only of his existence but of the fact that he
+was an origin and a beginning, and that things sprang from his will or
+his vision. There were some who seemed to think it a kind of favour done
+to the indestructible body of Irish Catholicism when Mr. Bury wrote his
+learned Protestant book upon St. Patrick. It was a critical and very
+careful bit of work, and was deservedly praised; but the favour done us
+I could not see! It is all to the advantage of non-Catholic history that
+it should be sane, and that a great Protestant historian should make
+true history out of a great historical figure was a very good sign. It
+was a long step back towards common sense compared with the German
+absurdities which had left their victims doubting almost all the solid
+foundation of the European story; but as for us Catholics, we had no
+need to be told it. Not only was there a St. Patrick in history, but
+there is a St. Patrick on the shores of his eastern sea and throughout
+all Ireland to-day. It is a presence that stares you in the face, and
+physically almost haunts you. Let a man sail along the Leinster coast on
+such a day as renders the Wicklow Mountains clear up-weather behind him,
+and the Mourne Mountains perhaps in storm, lifted clearly above the sea
+down the wind. He is taking some such course as that on which St.
+Patrick sailed, and if he will land from time to time from his little
+boat at the end of each day's sailing, and hear Mass in the morning
+before he sails further northward, he will know in what way St. Patrick
+inhabits the soil which he rendered sacred.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We know that among the marks of holiness is the working of miracles.
+Ireland is the greatest miracle any saint ever worked. It is a miracle
+and a nexus of miracles. Among other miracles it is a nation raised from
+the dead.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The preservation of the Faith by the Irish is an historical miracle
+comparable to nothing else in Europe. There never was, and please God
+never can be, so prolonged and insanely violent a persecution of men by
+their fellow-men as was undertaken for centuries against the Faith in
+Ireland: and it has completely failed. I know of no example in history
+of failure following upon such effort. It had behind it in combination
+the two most powerful of the evil passions of men, terror and greed. And
+so amazing is it that they did not attain their end, that perpetually as
+one reads one finds the authors of the dreadful business now at one
+period, now at another, assuming with certitude that their success is
+achieved. Then, after centuries, it is almost suddenly perceived--and in
+our own time--that it has not been achieved and never will be.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What a complexity of strange coincidences combined, coming out of
+nothing as it were, advancing like spirits summoned on to the stage, all
+to effect this end! Think of the American Colonies; with one little
+exception they were perhaps the most completely non-Catholic society of
+their time. Their successful rebellion against the mother country meant
+many things, and led to many prophecies. Who could have guessed that one
+of its chief results would be the furnishing of a free refuge for the
+Irish?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The famine, all human opinion imagined, and all human judgment was bound
+to conclude, was a mortal wound, coming in as the ally of the vile
+persecution I have named. It has turned out the very contrary. From it
+there springs indirectly the dispersion, and that power which comes from
+unity in dispersion, of Irish Catholicism.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Who, looking at the huge financial power that dominated Europe, and
+England in particular, during the youth of our own generation, could
+have dreamt that in any corner of Europe, least of all in the poorest
+and most ruined corner of Christendom, an effective resistance could be
+raised?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Behind the enemies of Ireland, furnishing them with all their modern
+strength, was that base and secret master of modern things, the usurer.
+He it was far more than the gentry of the island who demanded toll, and,
+through the mortgages on the Irish estates, had determined to drain
+Ireland as he has drained and rendered desert so much else. Is it not a
+miracle that he has failed?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Ireland is a nation risen from the dead; and to raise one man from the
+dead is surely miraculous enough to convince one of the power of a great
+spirit. This miracle, as I am prepared to believe, is the last and the
+greatest of St. Patrick's.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I was last in Ireland, I bought in the town of Wexford a coloured
+picture of St. Patrick which greatly pleased me. Most of it was green in
+colour, and St. Patrick wore a mitre and had a crosier in his hand. He
+was turning into the sea a number of nasty reptiles: snakes and toads
+and the rest. I bought this picture because it seemed to me as modern a
+piece of symbolism as ever I had seen: and that was why I bought it for
+my children and for my home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was a few pence change, but I did not want it. The person who sold
+me the picture said they would spend the change in candles for St.
+Patrick's altar. So St. Patrick is still alive.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="lost">The Lost Things</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+I never remember an historian yet, nor a topographer either, who could
+tell me, or even pretend to explain by a theory, how it was that certain
+things of the past utterly and entirely disappear.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is a commonplace that everything is subject to decay, and a
+commonplace which the false philosophy of our time is too apt to forget.
+Did we remember that commonplace we should be a little more humble in
+our guesswork, especially where it concerns prehistory; and we should
+not make so readily certain where the civilization of Europe began, nor
+limit its immense antiquity. But though it is a commonplace, and a true
+one, that all human work is subject to decay, there seems to be an
+inexplicable caprice in the method and choice of decay.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Consider what a body of written matter there must have been to instruct
+and maintain the technical excellence of Roman work. What a mass of
+books on engineering and on ship-building and on road-making; what
+quantities of tables and ready-reckoners, all that civilization must
+have produced and depended upon. Time has preserved much verse, and not
+only the best by any means, more prose, particularly the theological
+prose of the end of the Roman time. The technical stuff, which must, in
+the nature of things, have been indefinitely larger in amount, has (save
+in one or two instances and allusions) gone.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Consider, again, all that mass of seven hundred years which was called
+Carthage. It was not only seven hundred years of immense wealth, of
+oligarchic government, of a vast population, and of what so often goes
+with commerce and oligarchy--civil and internal peace. A few stones to
+prove the magnitude of its municipal work, a few ornaments, a few
+graves--all the rest is absolutely gone. A few days' marches away there
+is an example I have quoted so often elsewhere that I am ashamed of
+referring to it again, but it does seem to me the most amazing example
+of historical loss in the world. It is the site of Hippo Regius. Here
+was St. Augustine's town, one of the greatest and most populous of a
+Roman province. It was so large that an army of eighty thousand men
+could not contain it, and even with such a host its siege dragged on for
+a year. There is not a sign of that great town today.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A suburb, well without the walls--to be more accurate, a neighbouring
+village--carries on the name under the form of Bona, and that is all. A
+vast, fertile plain of black rich earth, now largely planted with
+vineyards, stands where Hippo stood. How can the stones have gone? How
+can it have been worth while to cart away the marble columns? Why are
+there no broken statues on such a ground, and no relics of the gods?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Nay, the wells are stopped up from which the people drank, and the
+lining of the wells is not to be discovered in the earth, and the
+foundations of the walls, and even the ornaments of the people and their
+coins, all these have been spirited away.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then there are the roads. Consider that great road which reached from
+Amiens to the main port of Gaul, the Portus Itius at Boulogne. It is
+still in use. It was in use throughout the Middle Ages. Up that road the
+French Army marched to Crcy. It points straight to its goal upon the
+sea coast. Its whole purpose lay in reaching the goal. For some
+extraordinary reason, which I have never seen explained or even guessed
+at, there comes a point as it nears the coast where it suddenly ceases
+to be.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+No sand has blown over it. It runs through no marshes; the land is firm
+and fertile. Why should that, the most important section of the great
+road which led northward from Rome, have failed, and have failed so
+recently, in the history of man? Where this great road crosses streams
+and might reasonably be lost, at its <i>pontes</i>, its bridges, it has
+remained, and is of such importance as to have given a name to a whole
+countryside--<i>Ponthieu</i>. But north of that it is gone.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Nearly every Roman road of Gaul and Britain presents something of the
+same puzzle in some parts of its course. It will run clear and
+followable enough, or form a modern highway for mile upon mile, and then
+not at a marsh where one would expect its disappearance, nor in some
+desolate place where it might have fallen out of use, but in the
+neighbourhood of a great city and at the very chief of its purpose, it
+is gone. It is so with the Stane Street that led up from the garrison of
+Chichester and linked it with the garrison of London. You can
+reconstruct it almost to a yard until you reach Epsom Downs. There you
+find it pointing to London Bridge, and remaining as clear as in any
+other part of its course: much clearer than in most other sections. But
+try to follow it on from Epsom Racecourse, and you entirely fail. The
+soil is the same; the conditions of that soil are excellent for its
+retention; but a year's work has taught me that there is no
+reconstructing it save by hypothesis and guesswork from this point to
+the crossing of the Thames.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What happened to all that mass of local documents whereby we ought to be
+able to build up the territorial scheme and the landed regime of old
+France? Much remains, if you will, in the shape of chance charters and
+family papers. Even in the archives of Paris you can get enough to whet
+your curiosity. But not even in one narrow district can you obtain
+enough to reconstruct the whole truth. There is not a scholar in Europe
+who can tell you exactly how land was owned and held, even, let us say,
+on the estates of Rheims or by the family of Cond. And men are ready to
+quarrel as to how many peasants owned and how much of their present
+ownership was due to the Revolution, evidence has already become so
+wholly imperfect in that tiny stretch of historical time.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But, after all, perhaps one ought not to wonder too much that material
+things should thus capriciously vanish. Time, which has secured Timgad
+so that it looks like an unroofed city of yesterday, has swept and razed
+Laimboesis. The two towns were neighbours--one was taken and the other
+left--and there is no sort of reason any man can give for it. Perhaps
+one ought not too much to wonder, for a greater wonder still is the
+sudden evaporation and loss of the great movements of the human soul.
+That what our ancestors passionately believed or passionately disputed
+should, by their descendants in one generation or in two, become
+meaningless, absurd, or false--this is the greatest marvel and the
+greatest tragedy of all.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="reading">On the Reading of History</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+Let me at the beginning of this short article present two facts to the
+reader. Neither can be disputed, and that is why I call them facts and
+put them in the forefront before I begin upon my theories.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The first fact is that the record of what men have done in the past and
+how they have done it is the chief positive guide to present action. The
+second fact is that most men must now receive the impression of the past
+through reading.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Put these two facts together and you get the fundamental truth that upon
+the right reading of history the right use of citizenship in England
+today will depend. It will of course depend upon other things as well:
+chiefly upon the human conscience; for if you were to pack off to an
+island a hundred families as ignorant as any human families can be of
+tradition, and wholly ignorant of positive history, those families would
+yet be able to create a human society and the voice of God within them
+would give just limits to their actions.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Still, of those factors in civic action amenable to civic direction,
+conscious and positively effective, there is nothing to compare with the
+right teaching and the right reading of history. Now teaching is today
+ruined. The old machinery by which the whole nation could be got to know
+all essential human things, has been destroyed, and the teaching of
+history in particular has been not only ruined but rendered ridiculous.
+There is no historical school properly so-called in modern England; that
+is, there is no organization framed with the sole object of extending
+and co-ordinating historical knowledge and of choosing men for their
+capacity to discover upon the one hand and to teach upon the other.
+There is nothing approaching to it in the two ancient universities,
+because the choice of teachers there depends upon a multitude of
+considerations quite separate from those mentioned, and the capacity to
+discover, to know, and to teach history, though it <i>may</i> be present
+in a tutor, will only be accidentally so present: while as for
+co-ordination of knowledge, there is no attempt at it. Even where very
+hard work is done, and, when it concerns local history, very useful
+work, history as a general study is not grasped because the universities
+have not grasped it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+History is to be had by the modern Englishman from his own reading only;
+and I am here concerned with the question how he shall read history with
+profit.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To read history with profit, history must be true, or at any rate the
+reader must have a power of discerning what is true in the midst of much
+that may be false. I will bargain, for instance, that in the summer of
+1899 the great mass of men, and especially the great mass of men who had
+passed through the universities, were under the impression that armies
+had left England for the purpose of conquest in distant countries with
+invariable success: that that success had been unique, unsupported and
+always decisive, and that the wealth of the country after each success
+had increased, not diminished. In other words, had history been studied
+even by the tiny minority who have education today in England, Sir
+William Butler would have counted more than the Joels, and the late Mr.
+Barnato (as he called himself); the South African War would not have
+taken place in a society which knew its past.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Again, you may pick almost any phrase referring to the Middle Ages out
+of any newspaper--if you are a man read in the Middle Ages--and you will
+find in it not only a definite historical falsehood with regard to the
+fact referred to, or the analogy drawn, but also a false philosophy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For instance, the other day I read this phrase with regard to the burial
+of a certain gentleman of my neighbourhood in Sussex: "We are surely
+past the phase of mediaeval thought in which it was imagined that a few
+words spoken over the lifeless clay would determine the fate of the soul
+for all eternity." Just notice the myriad falsehoods of a phrase like
+that! I will not discuss what is connoted by the words "past the phase
+of mediaeval thought"--it connotes of course that the human mind changes
+fundamentally with the centuries, and therefore that whatever we think
+is probably wrong, and that what we are sure of we cannot be sure of, an
+absurd conclusion. I will only note the historical falsehoods. When on
+earth did the "Middle Ages" lay down that a "few words over lifeless
+clay determined the fate of the soul for all eternity"? On the contrary,
+the Middle Ages laid it down--it was their peculiar doctrine--that it
+was impossible to determine the fate of the soul; that no one could tell
+the fate of any one individual soul; that it was a grievous sin, among
+the most grievous of sins, to affirm positive knowledge that any
+individual had lost his soul. More than this, the Middle Ages were
+peculiar in their insistence upon the doctrine that a man might have
+been very bad and might have had all the appearance of having lost his
+soul so far as human judgment went, and yet was liable to a midway place
+between salvation and damnation, and they affirmed that this midway
+place did not lead to either fate but necessarily to salvation and to
+salvation only.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Again, whatever could help the human soul to salvation was by the most
+rigorous theological definition of the Middle Ages applicable only
+before death. After death the fate of the soul was sealed, and the man
+once dead, the "lifeless clay" (as the journalist put it--and the Middle
+Ages was the only source from which he got the idea of clay at all),
+whether it were that of a Pope or of some random highwayman, had no
+effect whatsoever upon the fate of the soul. The greatest saint might
+have offered the most solemn sacrifice on its behalf for years, and if
+the soul were damned his sacrifice would have been of no avail.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have taken this example absolutely at random. But the modern reader,
+apart from sentences as clearly provocative of criticism as this, is
+perpetually coming across references, allusions, and parallels which
+take a certain course of human European and English history for granted.
+How is he to distinguish when that course is rightly drawn from when it
+is wrongly drawn?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus in some newspaper article written by an able man, and dealing, let
+us say, with the territorial army, one might come across a sentence like
+this: "Napoleon himself used troops so raw that they were actually
+drilled on the march to the battlefield." That would be a perfectly true
+statement. Any amount of criticism of it lies in connexion with Mr.
+Haldane's scheme, but still it is a true piece of history. Napoleon did
+get raw recruits into his battalions just before any one of his famous
+marches began, and drill them on the way to victory. In the next column
+of the newspaper the reader may be presented with a sentence like this:
+"The captures of English by privateers in the Revolutionary War should
+teach us what foreign cruisers can do."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were plenty of captures by privateers in the Revolutionary Wars;
+if I remember rightly, many many hundreds, all discreetly hidden from
+the common or garden reader until party politics necessitated their
+resurrection a hundred years after the event, but they have nothing
+whatsoever to do with modern circumstances.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Both statements are true then, and yet one can be truthfully applied
+today, while the other cannot.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+How is the plain reader to distinguish between two historical truths,
+one of which is a useful modern analogy, the other of which is a
+ludicrously misleading one?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The reader, it would seem, has no criterion by which to distinguish what
+has been withheld from him and what has been emphasized; he may, from
+his knowledge of the historian's character or bias, stand upon his
+guard, but he can do little more.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is another difficulty. It is less subtle and less common, but it
+exists. I mean brute lying. You do not often get the lie direct in
+official history; it would be too dangerous a game to play in the face
+of the critics, though some historians, and notably the French historian
+Taine, have played it boldly enough, and have stated dogmatically, as
+historical happenings, things that never happened and that they knew
+never happened. But the plain or brute historical lie is more commonly
+found in the pages of ephemeral journalism. Thus the other day, with
+regard to the Budget, I saw some financial operation alluded to as
+comparable with "the pulling out of Jews' teeth for money in the Middle
+Ages." When did anyone in the Middle Ages pull out a Jew's teeth for
+money? There is just one very doubtful story told about King John, and
+that story is told without proof by one of John's worst enemies, in a
+mass of other accusations many of which can be proved to be false.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Again, I turn to an Oxford History of the French Revolution, and I find
+the remark that the massacres of September were organized by the men
+from Marseilles. They were not organized by the men from Marseilles. The
+men from Marseilles had nothing to do with them, and the fact has been
+public property since the publication of Pollio and Marcel's monograph
+twenty years ago.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What criterion can the ordinary reader choose when he is confronted by
+difficulties of this sort? I will suggest to him one which seems to me
+by far the most valuable. It is the reading of firsthand authorities. It
+is all a matter of habit. When the original authorities upon which
+history is based were difficult to get at, when few of those in foreign
+tongues had been translated, and when those that had been published were
+published in the most expensive form, the ordinary reader had to depend
+upon an historian who would summarize for him the reading of another.
+The ordinary reader was compelled to read secondary history or none. Now
+secondary history is among the most valuable of literary efforts; where
+evidence is slight, the judgment of an historian who knows from other
+reading the general character of the period, is most valuable. Where
+evidence is abundant, and therefore confusing, the historian used to the
+selection and weighing of it performs a most valuable function. Still,
+the reader who is not acquainted with original authorities does not
+really know history and is at the mercy of whatever myth or tradition
+may be handed to him in print.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We should remember that today, even in England, original authorities are
+quite easy to get at. Two little books, for instance, occur to me out of
+hundreds: Mr. Rait's book on Mary Stuart and Mr. Archer's on the Third
+Crusade. In each of these the reader gets in a cheap form, in modern and
+readable English, the kind of evidence upon which historians base their
+history, and he can use that evidence in the light of his own knowledge
+of human nature and his own judgment of human life.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Or again, if he wants to know what the Romans really knew or said they
+knew about the German tribes who, as pirates, so greatly influenced the
+history of England, let him get Mr. Rouse's edition of Grenewey's
+translation of the Germania in Blackie's series of English texts; it
+will only cost sixpence, and for that money he will get a bit of
+Caesar's Gallic War and the Agricola as well. But the list nowadays is a
+very long one, luckily, and the lay reader has only to choose what
+period he would like to read up, and he will find for nearly every one
+first-hand evidence ready, cheap and published in a readable modern
+form. That he should take such first-hand evidence is the very best
+advice that any honest historian can give.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="victory">The Victory</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+The study of history, like the exploration, the thorough exploration, of
+any other field, leads one to perpetual novelties, miracles, and
+unexpected things; and I, in the study of the revolutionary wars, came
+across the story of a battle which completely possessed my spirit.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It would not be to my purpose here to give its name. It is not among the
+most famous; it is not Waterloo, nor Leipsic, nor Austerlitz, nor even
+Jemappes. The more I read into the night the more I perceived that upon
+the issue of that struggle depended the fate of the modern world. So
+completely did the notes of Carnot and a few private letters that had
+been put before me absorb my attention that I will swear the bugle-calls
+of those two days (for it was a two-days' struggle) sounded more clearly
+in my ears than the rumble of the London streets, and, as this died out
+with the advance of the night and the approach of morning, I was living
+entirely upon that ridge in Flanders, watching, as a man watches an
+arena, whether the new things or the old should be victorious. It was
+the new that conquered.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From that evening I was determined to visit this place of which so far I
+had but read, and to see how far it might agree with the vision I had
+had of it, and to people actual fields with the ghosts of dead soldiers.
+And for the better appreciation of the drama I chose the season and the
+days on which the fight had been driven across that rolling land, and I
+came there, as the Republicans had come, a little before the dawn.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The hillside was silent and deserted, more even than are commonly such
+places, though silence and desertion seem the common atmosphere of all
+the fields on which such fates have been decided. A man looking over
+Carthage Bay, especially a man looking at those sodden pools that were
+the sound harbours of Carthage, might be in an uninhabited world; and
+the loop of the Trebbia is the same, and the edge of Fontenoy; and even
+here in England that hillside looking south up which the Normans charged
+at Battle is a quiet and a drowsy sort of place.... So it was here in
+Flanders.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For two miles as I ascended by the little sunken lane which the extreme
+right wing had followed in the last attack I saw neither man nor beast,
+but only the same stubble of the same autumn fields, and the same colder
+sun shining upon the empty uplands until I reached the crest where the
+Hungarian and the Croat had met the charge, and had disputed the little
+village for two hours--a dispute upon which hung your fate and mine and
+that of Europe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a tiny little village, seven or eight houses together and no
+more, with a crazy little wooden steeple to its church all twisted awry,
+large barns, and comfortable hedgerows of the Northern kind; and from it
+one looked out westwards over an infinity of country, following low
+crest after low crest, down on to the French plains. I went into the inn
+of the place to drink, and found the cobbler there complaining that
+wealth disturbed the natural equality of men. Then I wandered out,
+pacing this point and that which I knew accurately from my maps, and
+thinking of the noise of the war. Behind the little church, upon a
+ramshackle green not large enough to pitch the stumps for single-wicket,
+was the modest monument, a cock in bronze, crowing, and the word
+"Victory" stamped into the granite of the pedestal; the whole thing, I
+suppose, not ten feet high. The bronze was very well done; it savoured
+strongly of Paris and looked odd in this abandoned little place. But
+every time my eyes sank from the bronze, to look at some other point in
+the landscape to identify the emplacement of such and such a battery or
+the gully that had concealed the advance of such and such a troop, my
+glance perpetually returned to that word "VICTORY," sculptured by itself
+upon the stone. It was indeed a victory; it was a victory which, for its
+huge unexpectedness, for the noise of it, for the length of time during
+which it was in doubt, for its final success, there is no parallel, and
+yet it is by no means among the famous battles of the world. And though
+the French count it one among the thousand of their battles, I doubt
+whether even in Paris most men would recognize it for the hammer-blow it
+was. The men of the time hardly knew it, though Carnot guessed at it, and
+now to-day in Sorbonne I think that regal fight is taking its true place.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So I went down the eight miles of front northward along the ridge; for
+even that battle, a hundred and more years ago, had an extended front of
+this kind. I recognized the tall majestic fringe of beeches from which
+had issued the last of the Royalist regiments bearing for the last time
+upon a European field the white flag of the Bourbon Monarchy; I came
+beyond it to the combe fringed with its semicircle of underbrush in
+which Coburg had massed his guns in the last effort to break the French
+centre when his flank was turned. I came to the main highway, very
+broad, straight, and paved, which cuts this battlefield in two, and then
+beyond it to the central position whose capture had made the final
+manoeuvre possible.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All Wednesday the Grenadiers, German, tall, padded, smart, and stout,
+had held their ground. It was not until Thursday, and by noon, that they
+were slowly driven up the hill by the ragged lads, the Gauls, shoeless,
+some not in uniform at all, half-mutinous, drunk with pain and glory.
+And I remembered, as the scene returned to me, that this battle, like so
+many of the Revolution, had been a battle of men against boys; how grey
+and veteran and trained in arms were the Austrians and the Prussians,
+their allies, how strict in orders, how calm: and what children the
+Terror had called up by force from the exhausted fields of remote French
+provinces, to break them here against the frontier, like water against a
+wall...!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was a little chap, twelve years old, a drummer; he had crept and
+crawled by hedgerows till he found himself behind the line of those
+volleying Grenadiers. There, "before his side," and breaking all rules,
+he had sounded the roll of the charge. They cut him down and killed him,
+and the roll of his drum ceased hard. A generation or more later,
+digging for foundations at this spot, the builders of the Peace came
+upon his bones, the little bones of a child heaped pell-mell with
+skeletons of the fallen giants round him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I went back into the town in whose defence the battle had been waged,
+and there I saw again in bronze this little lad, head high and mouth
+open, a-beating of his drum, and again the word "VICTORY."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All that effort was undertaken, all those young men and children killed,
+for something that was to happen for the salvation of the world; it has
+not come. All that iron resistance of the German line had been forged
+and organized till it almost conquered, till it almost thwarted, the
+Republic, and it also had been organized for the defence, and, as some
+thought, for the salvation, of the world. Some great good was to have
+come by the storming of that hill, or some great good by the defeat of
+the impetuous charge. Well, the hill was stormed, and (if you will) at
+Leipsic the effort which had stormed it was rolled back. What has
+happened to the High Goddess whom that youth followed, and worshipped as
+they say, and what to the Gods whom their enemies defended? The ridge is
+exactly the same.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="reality">Reality</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+A couple of generations ago there was a sort of man going mournfully
+about who complained of the spread of education. He had an ill-ease in
+his mind. He feared that book learning would bring us no good, and he
+was called a fool for his pains. Not undeservedly--for his thoughts were
+muddled, and if his heart was good it was far better than his head. He
+argued badly or he merely affirmed, but he had strong allies (Ruskin was
+one of them), and, like every man who is sincere, there was something in
+what he said; like every type which is numerous, there was a human
+feeling behind him: and he was very numerous.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now that he is pretty well extinct we are beginning to understand what
+he meant and what there was to be said for him. The greatest of the
+French Revolutionists was right--"After bread, the most crying need of
+the populace is knowledge." But what knowledge?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The truth is that secondary impressions, impressions gathered from books
+and from maps, are valuable as adjuncts to primary impressions (that is,
+impressions gathered through the channel of our senses), or, what is
+always almost as good and sometimes better, the interpreting voice of
+the living man. For you must allow me the paradox that in some
+mysterious way the voice and gesture of a living witness always convey
+something of the real impression he has had, and sometimes convey more
+than we should have received ourselves from our own sight and hearing of
+the thing related.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, I say, these secondary impressions are valuable as adjuncts to
+primary impressions. But when they stand absolute and have hardly any
+reference to primary impressions, then they may deceive. When they stand
+not only absolute but clothed with authority, and when they pretend to
+convince us even against our own experience, they are positively undoing
+the work which education was meant to do. When we receive them merely as
+an enlargement of what we know and make of the unseen things of which we
+read, things in the image of the seen, then they quite distort our
+appreciation of the world.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Consider so simple a thing as a river. A child learns its map and knows,
+or thinks it knows, that such and such rivers characterize such and such
+nations and their territories. Paris stands upon the River Seine, Rome
+upon the River Tiber, New Orleans on the Mississippi, Toledo upon the
+River Tagus, and so forth. That child will know one river, the river
+near his home. And he will think of all those other rivers in its image.
+He will think of the Tagus and the Tiber and the Seine and the
+Mississippi--and they will all be the river near his home. Then let him
+travel, and what will he come across? The Seine, if he is from these
+islands, may not disappoint him or astonish him with a sense of novelty
+and of ignorance. It will indeed look grander and more majestic, seen
+from the enormous forest heights above its lower course, than what,
+perhaps, he had thought possible in a river, but still it will be a
+river of water out of which a man can drink, with clear-cut banks and
+with bridges over it, and with boats that ply up and down. But let him
+see the Tagus at Toledo, and what he finds is brown rolling mud, pouring
+solid after the rains, or sluggish and hardly a river after long
+drought. Let him go down the Tiber, down the Valley of the Tiber, on
+foot, and he will retain until the last miles an impression of nothing
+but a turbid mountain torrent, mixed with the friable soil in its bed.
+Let him approach the Mississippi in the most part of its long course and
+the novelty will be more striking still. It will not seem to him a river
+at all (if he be from Northern Europe); it will seem a chance flood. He
+will come to it through marshes and through swamps, crossing a deserted
+backwater, finding firm land beyond, then coming to further shallow
+patches of wet, out of which the tree-stumps stand, and beyond which
+again mud-heaps and banks and groups of reeds leave undetermined, for
+one hundred yards after another, the limits of the vast stream. At last,
+if he has a boat with him, he may make some place where he has a clear
+view right across to low trees, tiny from their distance, similarly half
+swamped upon a further shore, and behind them a low escarpment of bare
+earth. That is the Mississippi nine times out of ten, and to an
+Englishman who had expected to find from his early reading or his maps a
+larger Thames it seems for all the world like a stretch of East Anglian
+flood, save that it is so much more desolate.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The maps are coloured to express the claims of Governments. What do they
+tell you of the social truth? Go on foot or bicycling through the more
+populated upland belt of Algiers and discover the curious mixture of
+security and war which no map can tell you of and which none of the
+geographies make you understand. The excellent roads, trodden by men
+that cannot make a road; the walls as ready loopholed for fighting; the
+Christian church and the mosque in one town; the necessity for and the
+hatred of the European; the indescribable difference of the sun, which
+here, even in winter, has something malignant about it, and strikes as
+well as warms; the mountains odd, unlike our mountains; the forests,
+which stand as it were by hardihood, and seem at war against the
+influence of dryness and the desert winds, with their trees far apart,
+and between them no grass, but bare earth alone.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So it is with the reality of arms and with the reality of the sea. Too
+much reading of battles has ever unfitted men for war; too much talk of
+the sea is a poison in these great town populations of ours which know
+nothing of the sea. Who that knows anything of the sea will claim
+certitude in connexion with it? And yet there is a school which has by
+this time turned its mechanical system almost into a commonplace upon
+our lips, and talks of that most perilous thing, the fortunes of a
+fleet, as though it were a merely numerical and calculable thing! The
+greatest of Armadas may set out and not return.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is one experience of travel and of the physical realities of the
+world which has been so widely repeated, and which men have so
+constantly verified, that I could mention it as a last example of my
+thesis without fear of misunderstanding. I mean the quality of a great
+mountain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To one that has never seen a mountain it may seem a full and a fine
+piece of knowledge to be acquainted with its height in feet exactly, its
+situation; nay, many would think themselves learned if they know no more
+than its conventional name. But the thing itself! The curious sense of
+its isolation from the common world, of its being the habitation of awe,
+perhaps the brooding-place of a god!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I had seen many mountains, I had travelled in many places, and I had
+read many particular details in the books--and so well noted them upon
+the maps that I could have re-drawn the maps--concerning the Cerdagne.
+None the less the sight of that wall of the Cerdagne, when first it
+struck me, coming down the pass from Tourcarol, was as novel as though
+all my life had been spent upon empty plains. By the map it was 9000
+feet. It might have been 90,000! The wonderment as to what lay beyond,
+the sense that it was a limit to known things, its savage intangibility,
+its sheer silence! Nothing but the eye seeing could give one all those
+things.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The old complain that the young will not take advice. But the wisest
+will tell them that, save blindly and upon authority, the young cannot
+take it. For most of human and social experience is words to the young,
+and the reality can come only with years. The wise complain of the jingo
+in every country; and properly, for he upsets the plans of statesmen,
+miscalculates the value of national forces, and may, if he is powerful
+enough, destroy the true spirit of armies. But the wise would be wiser
+still if, while they blamed the extravagance of this sort of man, they
+would recognize that it came from that half-knowledge of mere names and
+lists which excludes reality. It is maps and newspapers that turn an
+honest fool into a jingo.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is so again with distance, and it is so with time. Men will not grasp
+distance unless they have traversed it, or unless it be represented to
+them vividly by the comparison of great landscapes. Men will not grasp
+historical time unless the historian shall be at the pains to give them
+what historians so rarely give, the measure of a period in terms of a
+human life. It is from secondary impressions divorced from reality that
+a contempt for the past arises, and that the fatal illusion of some
+gradual process of betterment of "progress" vulgarizes the minds of men
+and wastes their effort. It is from secondary impressions divorced from
+reality that a society imagines itself diseased when it is healthy, or
+healthy when it is diseased. And it is from secondary impressions
+divorced from reality that springs the amazing power of the little
+second-rate public man in those modern machines that think themselves
+democracies. This last is a power which, luckily, cannot be greatly
+abused, for the men upon whom it is thrust are not capable even of abuse
+upon a great scale. It is none the less marvellous in its falsehood.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now you will say at the end of this, Since you blame so much the power
+for distortion and for ill residing in our great towns, in our system of
+primary education and in our papers and in our books, what remedy can
+you propose? Why, none, either immediate or mechanical. The best and the
+greatest remedy is a true philosophy, which shall lead men always to ask
+themselves what they really know and in what order of certitude they
+know it; where authority actually resides and where it is usurped. But,
+apart from the advent, or rather the recapture, of a true philosophy by
+a European society, two forces are at work which will always bring
+reality back, though less swiftly and less whole. The first is the poet,
+and the second is Time.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Sooner or later Time brings the empty phrase and the false conclusion up
+against what is; the empty imaginary looks reality in the face and the
+truth at once conquers. In war a nation learns whether it is strong or
+no, and how it is strong and how weak; it learns it as well in defeat as
+in victory. In the long processes of human lives, in the succession of
+generations, the real necessities and nature of a human society destroy
+any false formula upon which it was attempted to conduct it. Time must
+always ultimately teach.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The poet, in some way it is difficult to understand (unless we admit
+that he is a seer), is also very powerful as the ally of such an
+influence. He brings out the inner part of things and presents them to
+men in such a way that they cannot refuse but must accept it. But how
+the mere choice and rhythm of words should produce so magical an effect
+no one has yet been able to comprehend, and least of all the poets
+themselves.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="decline">On the Decline of the Book: [And Especially of the Historical Book]</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+It is an interesting speculation by what means the Book lost its old
+position in this country. This is not only an interesting speculation,
+but one which nearly concerns a vital matter. For if men fall into the
+habit of neglecting true books in an old and traditional civilization,
+the inaccuracy of their judgments and the illusions to which they will
+be subject, must increase.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To take but one example: history. The less the true historical book is
+read and the more men depend upon ephemeral statement, the more will
+legend crystallize, the harder will it be to destroy in the general mind
+some comforting lie, and the great object-lesson of politics (which is
+an accurate knowledge of how men have acted in the past) will become at
+last unknown.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There are many, especially among younger men, who would contest the
+premiss upon which all this is founded. They may point out, for
+instance, that the actual number of bound books bought in a given time
+at present is much larger than ever it was before. They may point out
+again, and with justice, that the proportion of the population which
+reads books of any sort, though perhaps not larger than it was three
+hundred years ago, is very much larger than it was one hundred years
+ago. And it may further be affirmed with truth that the range of
+subjects now covered by books produced and sold is much wider than ever
+it was before.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All this is true; and yet it is also true that the Book as a factor in
+our civilization has not only declined but has almost disappeared. Were
+many more dogs to be possessed in England than are now possessed, but
+were they to be all mongrels, among which none could be found capable of
+retrieving, or of following a fox or a hare with any discipline, one
+would have a right to say that the dog as a factor of our civilization
+had declined. Were many more men in England able to ride horses more or
+less, but were the number of those who rode constantly and for pleasure
+enormously to diminish, and were the new millions who could just manage
+to keep on horseback to prefer animals without spirit on which they
+would feel safe, one would have a right to say that the horse was
+declining as a factor in our civilization; and this is exactly what has
+happened with the Book.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The excellence of a book and its value as a book depend upon two
+factors, which are usually, though not always, united in varied
+proportions: first, that it should put something of value to the reader,
+whether of value as a discovery and an enlargement of wisdom or of value
+as a new emphasis laid upon old and sound morals; secondly, that this
+thing added or renewed in human life should be presented in such a
+manner as to give permanent aesthetic pleasure.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+That is not a first-rate book which, while it is admirably written,
+teaches something false or something evil; nor is that a first-rate book
+which, though it discover a completely new thing, or emphasize the most
+valuable department of morals, is so constructed as to be unreadable.
+Now it will not be denied that as far as these two factors are
+concerned--and I repeat they are almost always found in combination--the
+position of the Book has dwindled almost to nothingness. One could give
+examples of almost every kind: one could show how poetry, no matter how
+appreciated or praised, no longer sells. One could show--and this is one
+of the worst signs of all--how men will buy by the hundred thousand
+anything at all which has the hall mark of an established reputation,
+quite careless as to their love of it or their appetite for it. One
+could further show how more than one book of permanent value in English
+life has been discovered in our generation outside England, and has been
+as it were thrust upon the English public by foreign opinion.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But for my purpose it will be sufficient to take one very important
+branch which I can claim to have watched with some care, and that is the
+branch of History.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It may be said with truth that in our generation no single first-rate
+piece of history has enjoyed an appreciable sale. That is not true of
+France, it is not true of the United States, it is not even true of
+Germany in her intellectual decline, but it is true of England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+History is an excellent test. No man will read history, at least history
+of an instructive sort, unless he is a man who can read a book, and
+desires to possess one. To read History involves not only some permanent
+interest in things not immediately sensible, but also some permanent
+brain-work in the reader; for as one reads history one cannot, if one is
+an intelligent being, forbear perpetually to contrast the lessons it
+teaches with the received opinions of our time. Again, History is
+valuable as an example in the general thesis I am maintaining, because
+no good history can be written without a great measure of hard work. To
+make a history at once accurate, readable, useful, and new, is probably
+the hardest of all literary efforts; a man writing such history is
+driving more horses abreast in his team than a man writing any other
+kind of literary matter. He must keep his imagination active; his style
+must be not only lucid, but also must arrest the reader; he must
+exercise perpetually a power of selection which plays over innumerable
+details; he must, in the midst of such occupations, preserve unity of
+design, as much as must the novelist or the playwright; and yet with all
+this there is not a verb, an adjective or a substantive which, if it
+does not repose upon established evidence, will not mar the particular
+type of work on which he is engaged.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As an example of what I mean, consider two sentences: The first is taken
+from the 432nd page of that exceedingly unequal publication, the
+<i>Cambridge History of the French Revolution</i>; the second I have
+made up on the spur of the moment; both deal with the Battle of
+Wattignies. The "Cambridge History" version runs as follows:--
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On October 15 the relieving force, 50,000 strong, attacked the Austrian
+covering force at Wattignies; the battle raged all that day and was most
+furious on the right, in front of the village of Wattignies, which was
+taken and lost three times; on the 17th the French expected another
+general engagement but the enemy had drawn off.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There are here five great positive errors in six lines. The French were
+not 50,000 strong, the attack on the 15th was not on Wattignies, but on
+Dourlers; Wattignies was not taken and lost three times; the fight of
+the 15th was <i>least</i> pressed on the right (harder on the left and
+hardest in the centre) and no one--not the least recruit--expected
+Coburg to come <i>back</i> on the 17th. Why, he had crossed the Sambre
+at every point the day before! As for negative errors, or errors of
+omission, they are capital, and the chief is that the victory was won on
+the second day, the 16th, of which no mention is made.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now contrast such a sentence with the following:--
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On October 15th the relieving force, 42,000 strong, attacked the
+Austrian centre at Dourlers, and made demonstrations upon its wings; the
+attack upon Dourlers (which village had been taken and lost three times)
+having failed, upon the following day, October 16th, the extreme left of
+the enemy's position at Wattignies was attacked and carried; the enemy
+thus outflanked was compelled to retreat, and Maubeuge was relieved the
+same evening.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the first sentence (which bears the hall mark of the University)
+every error that could possibly be made in so few lines has been made.
+The numbers are wrong; the nature of the fighting is misstated; the
+village in the centre is confused with that on the extreme right; the
+critical second day is altogether omitted, and every portion of the
+sentence, verb, adjective, and substantive, is either directly
+inaccurate or indirectly conveys an inaccurate impression. The second
+sentence, bald in style and uninteresting in presentation as the first,
+has the merit of telling the truth. But--and here is the point--it would
+be impossible to criticize the first sentence unless someone had read up
+the battle, and to read up that battle one has to depend on five or six
+documents, some unpublished (like much of Jourdan's Memoirs), some of
+them involving a visit to Maubeuge itself, some, like Pierrat's book,
+very difficult to obtain (for it is neither in the British Museum nor in
+the Bodleian) some few the writings of contemporary eyewitnesses, and
+yet themselves demonstrably inaccurate. All these must be read and
+collated, and if possible the actual ground of the battle visited,
+before the first simple inaccurate sentence can be properly criticized
+or the second bald but accurate sentence framed. None of these
+authorities can have been so much as heard of by the official historian
+I have quoted.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It would be redundant to press the point. Most readers know well enough
+what labour the just writing of history involves, and how excellent a
+type it is of that "making of a book" which art is, as I have said,
+imperilled by apathy at the present day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Consider for a moment who were those that purchased historical works in
+this country in the past. There were, first of all, the landed gentry.
+In almost every great country-house you will find a good old library,
+and that good old library you will discover to be, as a rule, most
+valuable and most complete in what concerns the end of the eighteenth
+and the beginning of the nineteenth centuries. A very large proportion
+of history, and history of the best sort, is to be found upon those
+shelves. The standard dwindles, though it is fairly well maintained
+during the first two-thirds of the nineteenth century. Then--as a
+rule--it abruptly comes to an end. One may take as a sort of bourne, the
+two great books Macaulay's <i>History</i> and Kinglake's, for an earlier
+and a later limit. Most of these libraries contain Macaulay; some few
+Kinglake; hardly one possesses later works of value.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It may be urged in defence of the buyer that no later works of value
+exist. Put so broadly, the statement is erroneous; but the truth which
+it contains is in itself dependent upon the lack of public support for
+good historical work. When there is a fortune for the man who writes in
+accordance with whatever form of self-appreciation happens for the
+moment to be popular, while a steady view and an accurate presentation
+of the past can find no sale, then that steady view and that accurate
+presentation cannot be pursued save by men who are wealthy, or by men
+who are endowed, but even wealthy men will hesitate to write what they
+know will not be read, and for history no one is endowed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Our Universities were framed for many purposes, of which the cultivation
+of learning was but one; in that one field, however, a particular form
+of learning was taken very seriously, and was pursued with admirable
+industry; I mean an acquaintance with and an imitation of the Latin and
+Greek Classics.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a particular character of this form of learning that proficiency
+in it would lead to undisputed honours. The scholar recognized the
+superior scholar; the field of inquiry was by convention highly limited;
+it had been thoroughly explored; discussion upon such results as were
+doubtful did not involve a difference in general philosophy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+With history it is otherwise. Whether such things have or have not
+happened, and, above all, if they have happened, the <i>way</i> in which
+they have happened, is to our general judgment of contemporary men what
+evidence is to a criminal trial. Facts won't give way. If, therefore,
+there are vested interests, moral or material, to be maintained, history
+is, of all the sciences or arts, that one most likely to suffer at the
+hands of those connected with such interests. Even where the truth will
+be of advantage to those interests, they are afraid of it, because the
+thorough discussion of it will involve the presentation of views
+disadvantageous to privilege.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Where, as is much more commonly the case (for vested interests, moral or
+material, are unreasoning and selfish things), the truth would certainly
+offend them, they are the more determined to prevent its appearance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But of all vested interests none deal with such assured incomes, none
+are so immune by influence and tradition as the Universities.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now, if the rich man has no temptation by way of popular fame, and the
+poor man no opportunity for endowment, in any branch of letters, there
+remains but a third form of support, and that is the support of the
+buying public. And the public will not buy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I will suppose the case of a popular novelist, who in a few months shall
+write, not an historical novel, but a piece of so-called history. He
+shall call it, for instance, "England's Heroes." Before you tell me his
+name, or what he has written, I can tell you here and now what he will
+write on any number of points. He will call Hastings Senlac. In the
+Battle of Hastings he will make out Harold to be the head of a highly
+patriotic nation called the "Anglo-Saxons"; they shall be desperately
+defending themselves against certain French-speaking Scandinavians
+called Normans. He will deplore the defeat, but will say it was all for
+the best. Magna Charta he will have signed at Runnymede--probably he
+will have it drawn up there as well. He will translate the most famous
+clause by the modern words "Judgment of his peers" and "law of the
+land." He will represent the Barons as having behind them the voice of
+the whole nation--and so forth. When he comes to Crcy he will make
+Edward III speak English. When he comes to Agincourt he will leave his
+readers as ignorant as himself upon the boundaries, numbers and power of
+the Burgundian faction. In the Civil War Oliver Cromwell will be an
+honest and not very rich gentleman of the middle-classes. The
+Parliamentary force will be that of the mass of the people against a few
+gallant but wicked aristocrats who follow the perfidious Charles. He
+will make no mention of the pay of the Ironsides. James II will be
+driven out by a popular uprising, in which the great Churchill will play
+an honourable and chivalric part. The loss of the American Colonies will
+be deplored, and will be ascribed to the folly of attempting to tax men
+of "Anglo-Saxon" blood, unless you grant them representation. The
+Continental troops will be treated as the descendants of Englishmen! The
+guns at Saratoga will be Colonial guns; the incapacity of the Fleet will
+not be touched upon. Here again, as in the case of the Battle of
+Hastings, all will be for the best, and there will be a few touching
+words upon the passionate affection now felt for Great Britain by the
+inhabitants of the United States. The defensive genius of Wellington
+will be represented as that of a general particularly great in the
+offensive. Talavera will be a victory. The Spanish Auxiliaries in the
+Peninsula will be contemptible. No guns will be abandoned before Corua,
+but what are left at Corua will be mentioned and re-embarked. The
+character of Nelson will receive a curious sort of glutinous praise; Emma
+Hamilton, not Naples, will be the stain upon his name; the Battle of
+Trafalgar will prevent the invasion of England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This is a lengthy but not unjust description of what this gentleman
+would write; it is rubbish from beginning to end. It would sell, because
+every word of it would foster in the reader the illusion that the
+community of which he is a member is invincible under all circumstances,
+that effort and self-denial and suffering are spared him alone out of
+all mankind, and that a little pleasurable excitement, preferably that
+to be obtained from his favourite game, is the chief factor in military
+success.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have omitted Alfred. Alfred in such a book will be the "teller of
+truth"--but he will not go to Mass.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Given that the name is sufficiently well known, there is hardly any
+limit to the sale of a book modelled upon these lines. Contrast with its
+fate the fate of a book, written no matter how powerfully, that should
+insist upon truths, no matter how valuable to the English people at the
+present moment. These truths need by no means be unpleasant, though at
+the present moment an unpleasant truth is undoubtedly more valuable than
+a pleasant one. They could make as much or more for the glory of the
+country; they could be at any rate of infinitely greater service, but
+they would not be received, simply because they would compel close
+attention and brain-work in the reader as well as in the writer of them.
+An established groove would have to be abandoned; to use a strong
+metaphor, the reader would have to get out of bed, and that is what the
+modern reader will not do. Tell him that the men who fought on either
+side at Hastings' plain cared nothing for national but everything for
+feudal allegiance; that <i>lex terrae</i> means the local custom of
+ordeal and not the "law of the land"; tell him that <i>judicium
+parium</i> means the right of a noble to be judged by nobles, and has
+nothing to do with the jury system; tell him that Magna Charta was
+certainly drawn up before the meeting at Runnymede; that not until the
+Lancastrians did English kings speak English; that Oliver Cromwell owed
+his position to the enormous wealth of the Williamses, of whom had he
+not been a cadet, he would never have been known; tell him that the
+whole force of the Parliament resided in the squires and that the Civil
+Wars turned England into an oligarchy; tell him the exact truth about
+the infamy of Churchill; tell him what proportion of Englishmen during
+the American War were taxed without being represented; tell him what
+proportion of Washington's troops were of English blood; tell him any
+one illuminating and true thing about the history of his country, and
+the novelty will so offend him that a direct insult would have pleased
+him better.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What is true of history is true of nearly all the rest, and the upshot
+of the whole matter is that there is not, either in private patronage or
+in popular demand, a chance for history in modern England.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You can have excellent literature in journalism, and it will be widely
+read. I would say more--I would say that the better literature a
+newspaper admits, the more widely will that paper be read, or at any
+rate the greater will its influence be on modern Englishmen. But when it
+comes to the kneaded and wrought matter of the true Book, neither the
+public nor the centres of learning will have any of it, and the last
+medium which might make it possible, patronage, has equally disappeared,
+because the modern patron does not work in the daylight in the full view
+of the nation and with its full approbation, and he is no longer a public
+man (though he is richer than ever he was before). His patronage,
+therefore, though it is still considerable, is expended in satisfying his
+private demand. Private architects build him doubtful castles, private
+collectors get him manuscripts and jewels, but Letters, which are a public
+thing, he can no longer command.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It might be asked, by way of conclusion, whether there is any remedy for
+this state of things. There is none. Its prime cause resides in a
+certain attitude of the national mind, and this kind of broadly held
+philosophy is not changed save by slow preaching or external shock. As
+long as modern England remains what we know it, and follows the lines of
+change which we see it following, the Book will necessarily decline more
+and more, and we must make up our minds to it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Of other evil tendencies of our time, one can say of some that they are
+obviously mending, of others that such and such an applicable remedy
+would mend them. Our public architecture is certainly getting better; so
+is our painting. Our gross and increasing contempt of self-government
+(to take quite another sphere) is curable by one or two simple reforms
+in procedure, registration, the expenses of election, and voting at the
+polls, which would restore the House of Commons to life, and give it
+power to express English will. But a regard for, a cultivation of, above
+all a sinking of wealth upon, English Letters is past praying for. We
+must wait until the tide changes; we can do nothing, and the waiting
+will be long.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="jose">Jos Maria de Heredia</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+The French have a phrase "la beaut du verbe" by which they would
+express a something in the sound and in the arrangement of words which
+supplements whatever mere thought those words were intended to express.
+It is evident that no definition of this beauty can be given, but it is
+also evident that without it letters would not exist. How it arises we
+cannot explain, yet the process is familiar to us in everything we do
+when we are attempting to fulfil an impulse towards whatever is good. An
+integration not of many small things but of an infinite series of
+infinitely small things build up the perfect gesture, the perfect line,
+the perfect intonation, and the perfect phrase. So indeed are all things
+significant built up: every tone of the voice, every arrangement of
+landscape or of notes in music which awake us and reveal the things
+beyond. But when one says that this is especially true of perfect
+expression one means that sometimes, rarely, the integration achieves a
+steadfast and sufficient formula. The mind is satisfied rather than
+replete. It asks no more; and if it desires to enjoy further the
+pleasure such completion has given it, it does not attempt to prolong or
+to develop the pleasure under which it has leapt; it is content to wait
+a while and to return, knowing well that it has here a treasure laid up
+for ever.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All this may be expressed in two words: the Classical Spirit. That is
+Classic of which it is true that the enjoyment is sufficient when it is
+terminated and that in the enjoyment of it an entity is revealed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When men propose to bequeath to their fellows work of so supreme a kind
+it is to be noticed that they choose by instinct a certain material.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It has been said that the material in which he works affects the
+achievement of the artist: it is truer to say that it helps him. A man
+designing a sculpture in marble knows very well what he is about to do.
+A man attempting the exact and restrained rendering of tragedy upon the
+stage does not choose the stage as one among many methods, he is drawn
+to it: he needs it; the audience, the light, the evening, the very slope
+of the boards, all minister to his efforts. And so a man determined to
+produce the greatest things in verse takes up by nature exact and
+thoughtful words and finds that their rhythm, their combination, and
+their sound turn under his hand to something greater than he himself at
+first intended; he becomes a creator, and his name is linked with the
+name of a masterpiece. The material in which he has worked is hard; the
+price he has paid is an exceeding effect; the reward he has earned is
+permanence.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Jos de Heredia was an artist of this kind. The mass of the verse he
+produced, or rather published, was small. It might have been very large.
+It is not (as a foolish modern affectation will sometimes pretend)
+necessary to the endurance or even the excellence of work that it should
+be the product of exceptional moments; nor is it even true (as the wise
+Ancients believed) that great length of time must always mature it. But
+the small volume of Heredia's legacy to European letters does argue this
+at least in the poet, that he passionately loved perfection and that,
+finding himself able to achieve it (for perfection can be achieved) but
+now and then, he chose only to be remembered by the contentment which,
+now and then, his own genius had given him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He worked upon verse as men work upon the harder metals; all that he did
+was chiselled very finely, then sawn to an exact configuration and at
+last inlaid, for when he published his completed volume it is true to
+say that every piece fitted in with the sound of one before and of one
+after. He was careful in the heroic degree.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+His blood and descent are worthy of notice. He was a Spaniard,
+inheriting from the first Conquerors of the New World, nor was it
+remarkable to those who have received a proper enthusiasm for the
+classical spirit that the energy and even the violence natural to such a
+lineage should express themselves in the coldest and the most exalted
+form when, for the second time, a member of the family attempted verse.
+It is in the essence of that spirit that it alone can dare to be
+disciplined. It never doubts the motive power that will impel it; it is
+afraid, if anything, of an excess of power, and consciously imposes upon
+itself the limits which give it form.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Heredia in his person expressed the activity which impelled him, for he
+was strong, brown, erect, a rapid walker, and a man whose voice was
+perpetually modulated in resonant and powerful tones. In his last years
+during his administration of the Library at the Arsenal this vitality of
+his took on an aspect of good nature very charming and very fruitful.
+His organization of the place was thorough, his knowledge of the readers
+intimate. He refused the manuscripts of none, he advised, laughed, and
+consoled. His criticism was sure. Several, notably Marcel Prevost, were
+launched by his authority. The same deep security of literary judgment
+which had permitted him to chastise and to perfect his impeccable
+sonnets into their final form permitted him also to hold up before his
+eyes, grasp, and judge the work of every other man.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+His frailty, as must always be the frailty of such men, was
+fastidiousness. The same sensitive consciousness which is said to have
+all but lost us the Aeneid, and which certainly all but lost us the
+Apologia, dominated his otherwise vigorous soul. It is more than forty
+years since his first verse, written just upon achieving his majority,
+appeared in the old <i>Revue de Paris</i> and in the <i>Revue des Deux
+Mondes</i>. It was not till 1893 that he collected in one volume the
+scattered sonnets of his youth and middle age: the collection won him
+somewhat tardily his chair in the Academy. There is irony in the
+reminiscence that the man he defeated in that election was Zola.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All the great men who saluted his advent are dead. Thophile Gautier,
+who first established his fame; Hugo, who addressed to him, perhaps,
+that vigorous appeal in which strict labour is deified, and the medal
+and the marble bust are shown to outlive the greatest glories, are
+sometimes quoted as the last among the great French writers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The immediate future will show that the stream of French excellence in
+this department, as in any other of human activity, is full, deep, and
+steady. The work of Heredia will help to prove it. He was a Spaniard,
+and a Colonial Spaniard. No other nation, perhaps, except the modern
+French, so inherit the romantic appetite of the later Roman Empire as to
+be able to mould and absorb every exterior element of excellence. It is
+remarkable that at the same moment Paris contemplated the funeral of the
+Italian de Brazza and the death of the Cuban Heredia. It is probable
+that those of us who are still young will live to see either name at the
+head of a new tradition. Heredia proved it possible not so much to
+imitate as to recapture the secure tradition of an older time. Perhaps
+the truest generalization that can be made with regard to the French
+people is to say that they especially in Western Europe (whose quality
+it is ever to transform itself but never to die) discover new springs of
+vitality after every period of defeat and aridity which they are
+compelled to cross. Heredia will prove in the near future a capital
+example of this power. He will increase silently in reputation until we,
+in old age, shall be surprised to find our sons and grandsons taking him
+for granted and speaking of him as one speaks of the Majores, of the
+permanent lights of poetry.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="normandy">Normandy and the Normans</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+There is no understanding a country unless one gets to know the nature
+of its sub-units. In some way not easy to comprehend, impossible to
+define, and yet very manifest, each of the great national organisms of
+which Christendom is built up is itself a body of many regions whose
+differences and interaction endow it with a corporate life. No one could
+understand the past of England who did not grasp the local genius of the
+counties--Lancashire, cut off eastward by the Pennines, southward by the
+belt of marsh, with no natural entry save by the gate of Stockport;
+Sussex, which was and is a bishopric and a kingdom; Kent, Devon, the
+East Anglian meres. No one could (or does) understand modern England who
+does not see its sub-units to have become by now the great industrial
+towns, or who fails to seize the spirit of each group of such
+towns--with London lying isolated in the south, a negative to the rest.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+France is built of such sub-units: it is the peculiarity of French
+development that these are not small territories mainly of an average
+extent with government answerable in a long day's ride to one centre,
+such as most English counties are; nor city States such as form the
+piles upon which the structure of Italy has been raised; nor kingdoms
+such as coalesced to reform the Spanish people; but <i>provinces</i>,
+differing greatly in area, from little plains enclosed, like the
+Rousillon, to great stretches of landscape succeeding landscape like the
+Bourbonnais or the Prigord.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The real continuity with an immemorial past which inspires all Gallic
+things is discoverable in this arrangement of Gaul. At the first glance
+one might imagine a French province to be a chance growth of the feudal
+ties and of the Middle Ages. A further effort of scholarship will prove
+it essentially Roman. An intimate acquaintance with its customs and with
+the site of its strongholds, coupled with a comparison of the most
+recent and most fruitful hypotheses of historians, will convince you
+that it is earlier than the Roman conquest; it is tribal, or the home of
+a group of cognate tribes, and its roots are lost in prehistory. So it
+is with Normandy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This vast territory--larger (I think) than all North England from the
+Humber to Cheviot and from Chester to the Solway--has never formed a
+nation. It is typical of the national idea in France that Normandy
+should have "held" of the political centre of the country, probably
+since the first Gallic confederations were formed, certainly since the
+organization of the Empire. It is equally typical of the local life of a
+French province that, thus dependent, Normandy should have strictly
+preserved its manner and its spirit, and should have readily made war
+upon the Crown and resisted, as it still resists and will perhaps for
+ever, the centralizing forces of the national temper.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If you will travel day after day, and afoot, westward across the length
+of Normandy, you will have, if you are a good walker, a fortnight's
+task ahead of you; even if you are walking for a wager, a week's. It is
+the best way in which to possess a knowledge of that great land, and my
+advice would be to come in from the Picards over the bridge of Aumale
+across the little River Bresle (which is the boundary of Normandy to the
+east), and to go out by way of Pontorson, there crossing into Brittany
+over the little River Couesnon, which is the boundary of Normandy upon
+the west and beyond which lie the Bretons. In this way will you be best
+acquainted with the sharp differentiation of the French provinces
+passing into Normandy from Picardy, brick-built, horse-breeding, and
+slow, passing out of Normandy into the desolation and dreams of
+Brittany, and having known between the one and the other the chalk
+streams, the day-long beechen forests, the valley pastures, and the
+flamboyant churches of the Normans. You will do well to go by
+Neufchtel, where the cheese is made, and by Rouen, then by Lisieux to
+Falaise, where the Conqueror was born, and thence by Vive to Avranches
+and so to the Breton border, taking care to choose the forests between
+one town and another for your road, since these many and deep
+woods--much wider than any we know in England--are in great part the
+soul of the country.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+By this itinerary you will not have taken all you should into view; you
+will not have touched the coast nor seen how Normandy is based upon the
+sea, and you will not have known the Cotentin, which is a little State
+of its own and is the quadrilateral which Normandy thrusts forth into
+the Channel. If you have the leisure, therefore, return by the north.
+Pass through Coutances and Valognes to Cherbourg, thence through Caen
+and Bayeux to the crossing of Seine at Honfleur, and then on by the
+chalk uplands and edges of the cliffs till you reach Eu upon the Bresle
+again. In such a double journey the character of the whole will be
+revealed, and if you have studied the past of the place before starting
+you will find your journey full. Avranches, Coutances, Lisieux, Bayeux,
+Rouen are not chance sites. Their great churches mark the bishoprics;
+the bishoprics in turn were the administrative centres of Rome, and Rome
+chose them because they were the strongholds or the sacred cities each
+of a Gallic tribe. The wealth of the valleys permitted everywhere that
+astonishing richness of detail which marks the stonework in village
+after village; the connexion with England, especially the last connexion
+under Henry V, explains the innumerable churches, splendid even in
+hamlets as are our own. The Bresle and the Couesnon, those little
+streams, are boundaries not of these last few centuries, but of a time
+beyond view; the Romans found them so. Diocletian made them the limits
+of the "Second Lyonesse," "Lugdunensis Secunda," which was the last
+Roman name of the province.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Here and there, near the west especially, you will discover names which
+recall the chief adventure of Normandy, the accident which baptized it
+with its Christian name, the landing of the Scandinavian pirates, the
+thousandth anniversary of which is now being celebrated. They came--we
+cannot tell in what numbers, some thousands--and harried the land. The
+old policy of the Empire, the policy already seven hundred years old,
+was had recourse to; the barbarians were granted settlement,
+inheritance, marriage, and partnership with the Lords of the Villae;
+their chief was permitted to hold local government, to tax and to levy
+men as the administrator of the whole province; but there followed
+something which wherever else the experiment had been tried had not
+followed: something of a new race arose. In Burgundy, in the northeast,
+in Visigothic Aquitaine the slight admixture of foreign blood had not
+changed the people, it was absorbed; the slight admixture of
+Scandinavian blood, coming so much later, in a time so degraded in
+government and therefore so open to natural influence, did change the
+Gallo-Romans of the Second Lyonesse. Few as the newcomers may have been
+in number, the new element transformed the mass, and when a century had
+permitted the union to work and settle, the great soldiers who founded
+us appeared. The Norman lords ordered, surveyed, codified, and ruled.
+They let Europe into England, they organized Sicily, they confirmed the
+New Papacy, they were the framework of the Crusades.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The phenomenon was brief. It lasted little more than a hundred years,
+but it transformed Europe and launched the Middle Ages. When it had
+passed, Normandy stood confirmed for centuries (and is still confirmed)
+in a character of its own. No longer adventurous but mercantile, apt, of
+a resisting courage, sober in thought, leaning upon tradition, not
+imperially but domestically strong: the country of Corneille and of
+Malesherbes, a reflection of that spirit in letters; the conservative
+body of to-day--for in our generation that is the mark of Normandy--and,
+in arms, the recruitment to which Napoleon addressed his short and
+famous order that "the Normans that day should do their duty."
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="oldt">The Old Things</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+Those who travel about England for their pleasure, or, for that matter,
+about any part of Western Europe, rightly associate with such travel the
+pleasure of history; for history adds to a man, giving him, as it were,
+a great memory of things--like a human memory, but stretched over a far
+longer space than that of one human life. It makes him, I do not say
+wise and great, but certainly in communion with wisdom and greatness.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It adds also to the soil he treads, for to this it adds meaning. How
+good it is when you come out of Tewkesbury by the Cheltenham road to
+look upon those fields to the left and know that they are not only
+pleasant meadows, but also the place in which a great battle of the
+mediaeval monarchy was decided, or as you stand by that ferry, which is
+not known enough to Englishmen (for it is one of the most beautiful
+things in England), and look back and see Tewkesbury tower, framed
+between tall trees over the level of the Severn, to see also the Abbey
+buildings in your eye of the mind--a great mass of similar stone with
+solid Norman walls, stretching on hugely to the right of the Minster.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All this historical sense and the desire to marry History with Travel is
+very fruitful and nourishing, but there is another interest, allied to
+it, which is very nearly neglected, and which is yet in a way more
+fascinating and more full of meaning. This interest is the interest in
+such things as lie behind recorded history, and have survived into our
+own times. For underneath the general life of Europe, with its splendid
+epic of great Rome turned Christian, crusading, discovering, furnishing
+the springs of the Renaissance, and flowering at last materially into
+this stupendous knowledge of today, the knowledge of all the Arts, the
+power to construct and to do--underneath all that is the foundation on
+which Europe is built, the stem from which Europe springs; and that stem
+is far, far older than any recorded history, and far, far more vital
+than any of the phenomena which recorded history presents.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Recorded history for this island and for Northern France and for the
+Rhine Valley is a matter of two thousand years; for the Western
+Mediterranean of three; but the things of which I speak are to be
+reckoned in tens of thousands of years. Their interest does not lie only
+nor even chiefly in things that have disappeared. It is indeed a great
+pleasure to rummage in the earth and find polished stones wrought by men
+who came so many centuries before us, and of whose blood we certainly
+are; and it is a great pleasure to find, or to guess that we find, under
+Canterbury the piles of a lake or marsh dwelling, proving that
+Canterbury has been there from all time; and that the apparently
+defenceless Valley City was once chosen as an impregnable site, when the
+water-meadows of the Stour were impassable as marsh, or with difficulty
+passable as a shallow lagoon. And it is delightful to stand on the
+earthwork a few miles west and to say to oneself (as one can say with a
+fair certitude), "Here was the British camp defending the south-east;
+here the tenth legion charged." All these are pleasant, but more
+pleasant, I think, to follow the thing where it actually survives.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Consider the track-ways, for instance. How rich is England in these! No
+other part of Europe will afford the traveller so permanent and so
+fascinating a problem. Elsewhere Rome hardened and straightened every
+barbaric trail until the original line and level disappeared; but in
+this distant province of Britain she could only afford just so much
+energy as made them a foothold for her soldiery; and all over England
+you can go, if you choose, foot by foot, along the ancient roads that
+were made by the men of your blood before they had heard of brick or of
+stone or of iron or of written laws.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I wonder that more men do not set out to follow, let us say, the
+Fosse-Way. There it runs right across Western England from the
+south-west to the north-east in a line direct yet sinuous, characters
+which are the very essence of a savage trail. It is a modern road for
+many miles, and you are tramping, let us say, along the Cotswold on a
+hard metalled modern English highway, with milestones and notices from
+the County Council telling you that the culverts will not bear a
+steam-engine, if so be you were to travel on one. Then suddenly this
+road comes up against a cross-road and apparently ceases, making what
+map draughtsmen call a "T"; but right in the same line you see a gate,
+and beyond it a farm lane, and so you follow. You come to a spinney
+where a ride has been cut through by the woodreeve, and it is all in the
+same line. The Fosse-Way turns into a little path, but you are still on
+it; it curves over a marshy brook-valley, picking out the firm land, and
+as you go you see old stones put there heaven knows how many (or how
+few) generations ago--or perhaps yesterday, for the tradition remains,
+and the country-folk strengthen their wet lands as they have
+strengthened them all these thousands of years; you climb up out of that
+depression, you get you over a stile, and there you are again upon a
+lane. You follow that lane, and once more it stops dead. This time there
+is a field before you. No right of way, no trace of a path, nothing but
+grass rounded into those parallel ridges which mark the modern decay of
+the corn lands and pasture--alas!--taking the place of ploughing. Now
+your pleasure comes in casting about for the trail; you look back along
+the line of the Way; you look forward in the same line till you find
+some indication, a boundary between two parishes, perhaps upon your map,
+or two or three quarries set together, or some other sign, and very soon
+you have picked up the line again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So you go on mile after mile, and as you tread that line you have in the
+horizons that you see, in the very nature and feel of the soil beneath
+your feet, in the skies of England above you, the ancient purpose and
+soul of this Kingdom. Up this same line went the Clans marching when
+they were called Northward to the host; and up this went slow, creaking
+wagons with the lead of the Mendips or the tin of Cornwall or the gold
+of Wales.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And it is still there; it is still used from place to place as a high
+road, it still lives in modern England. There are some of its peers, as
+for instance the Ermine Street, far more continuous, and affording
+problems more rarely; others like the ridgeway of the Berkshire Downs,
+which Rome hardly touched, and of which the last two thousand years has,
+therefore, made hardly anything; you may spend a delightful day piecing
+out exactly where it crossed the Thames, making your guess at it, and
+wondering as you sit there by Streatley Vicarage whether those islands
+did not form a natural weir below which lay the ford.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The roads are the most obvious things. There are many more; for
+instance, thatch. The same laying of the straw in the same manner, with
+the same art, has continued, we may be certain, from a time long before
+the beginning of history. See how in the Fen Land they thatch with
+reeds, and how upon the Chalk Downs with straw from the Lowlands. I
+remember once being told of a record in a manor, which held of the
+Church and which lay upon the southern slope of the Downs, that so much
+was entered for "straw from the Lowlands": then, years afterwards, when
+I had to thatch a Bethlehem in an orchard underneath tall elms--a
+pleasant place to write in, with the noise of bees in the air--the man
+who came to thatch said to me: "We must have straw from the Lowlands;
+this upland straw is no good for thatching." Immediately when I heard
+him say this there was added to me ten thousand years. And I know
+another place in England, far distant from this, where a man said to me
+that if I wished to cross in a winter mist, as I had determined to do,
+Cross-Fell, that great summit of the Pennines, I must watch the drift of
+the snow, for there was no other guide to one's direction in such
+weather. And I remember another man in a little boat in the North Sea,
+as we came towards the Foreland, talking to me of the two tides, and
+telling me how if one caught the tide all the way up to Long Nose and
+then went round it on the end of the flood, one caught a new tide up
+London river, and so made two tides in one day. He spoke with the same
+pleasure that silly men show when they talk about an accumulation of
+money. He felt wealthy and proud from the knowledge, for by this
+knowledge he had two tides in one day. Now knowledge of this sort is
+older than ten thousand years; and so is the knowledge of how birds fly,
+and of how they call, and of how the weather changes with the moon.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Very many things a man might add to the list that I am making. Dew-pans
+are older than the language or the religion; and the finding of water
+with a stick; and the catching of that smooth animal, the mole; and the
+building of flints into mortar, which if one does it in the old way (as
+you may see at Pevensey) the work lasts for ever, but if you do it in
+any new way it does not last ten years; then there is the knowledge of
+planting during the crescent part of the month, but not before the new
+moon shows; and there is the influence of the moon on cider, and to a
+less extent upon the brewing of ale; and talking of ale, the knowledge
+of how ale should be drawn from the brewing just when a man can see his
+face without mist upon the surface of the hot brew. And there is the
+knowledge of how to bank rivers, which is called "throwing the rives" in
+the South, but in the Fen Land by some other name; and how to bank them
+so that they do not silt, but scour themselves. There are these things
+and a thousand others. All are immemorial.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="battle">The Battle of Hastings. Related in the Manner of Oxford and Dedicated
+to that University</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+So careless were the French commanders (or more properly the French
+commander, for the rest were cowed by the bullying swagger of William)
+that the night, which should have been devoted to some sort of
+reconnaissance, if not of a preparation of the ground, was devoted to
+nothing more practical than the religious exercises peculiar to
+foreigners.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Their army, as we have seen, was not drawn from any one land, but it was
+in the majority composed of Normans and Bretons; we can therefore
+understand the extravagant superstition which must bear the blame for
+what followed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Meanwhile, upon the heights above, the English host calmly prepared for
+battle. Fires were lit each in its appointed place, and at these meat
+was cooked under the stern but kindly eyes of the sergeant-majors. These
+also distributed at an appointed price liquor, of which the British
+soldier is never willing to be deprived, and as the hours advanced
+towards morning, the songs in which our adventurous race has ever
+delighted rose from the heights above the Brede.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The morning was misty, as is often the case over damp and marshy lands
+in the month of October, but the inclemency of the weather, or, to speak
+more accurately, the superfluous moisture precipitated from an already
+saturated atmosphere, was of no effect upon those silent and tenacious
+troops of Harold. It was far other with the so-called "Norman" host, who
+were full of forebodings--only too amply to be justified--of the fate
+that lay before them upon the morrow.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is curious to contrast the quiet skill and sagacity which marked the
+disposition of Harold with the almost childish simplicity of William's
+plan--if plan it may be called.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Saxon hosts were drawn along the ridge in a position chosen with
+masterly skill. It afforded (as may still be seen) no dead ground for an
+attacking force and little cover. [<a href="#1">1</a>] Their left was arranged <i>en potence</i>, their
+right was drawn up in echelon. The centre followed the plan usual at
+that time, reposing upon the wings to its right and left and extended.
+The reserves were, of course, posted behind. Cavalry, as at Omdurman,
+played but a slight role in this typically national action and such
+mounted troops as were present seem to have been intermixed with the
+line in the fashion later known, in the jargon of the service, as "The
+Beggar's Quadrille." The Brigade of Guards is not mentioned in any
+record that I can discover, but was probably set by reversed companies
+in a square perpendicular to the main ravine and a little in front of
+the salient angle which appears upon the map at the point marked A.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The terrain can be clearly determined at the present day in spite of the
+changes that have taken place in the intervening years. It is a fairly
+steep slope of hemispherical contour interspersed with low bushes; the
+summit (upon which now stands our lovely English village of Battle and
+the residence of one of those cultured and leisured men who form the
+framework of our commonwealth) was then but a wild heath.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Harold himself could be distinguished in the centre of the line by his
+handsome features, restrained deportment, and unfailing gentlemanly good
+sense as he spoke to staff officer, orderly, and even groom with
+indefatigable skill.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In spite of the determination observable from a great distance upon the
+faces of the tall Saxon line, William with characteristic lack of
+balance opened the action by ordering a charge uphill with cavalry
+alone; it was a piece of tactics absurdly incongruous and one even he
+would never have attempted had he understood the foe that was before
+him, or the fate to which that foe had doomed him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The lesson dealt him was as immediate as it was severe. The foreigners
+were thrust headlong down the hill, and a private letter tells us how
+the Men of Kent in particular buffeted the Normans about "as though they
+were boys." But even in the heat of this initial success Harold had the
+self-command to order the retirement upon the main position: and with
+troops such as his the order was equivalent to its execution.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This rude blow would have sufficed for any commander less vain than
+William, but he seems to have lost all judgment in a fit of personal
+vanity and to have ordered a second charge which could not but prove as
+futile as the first, delivered as it was up a perfect glacis
+strengthened by epaulements, reverses and countersunk galvon work and
+one whose natural strength was heightened by the stockade which the
+indomitable energy of Harold's troops had perfected in the early hours
+of the morning. Many of the stakes in this, the reader may note with
+pardonable pride, were of English oak--sharpened at the tip.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+William's plan (if plan it may be called) was, as we have seen,
+necessarily futile and was foredoomed to failure. But Harold had no
+intention to let the action bear no more fruit than a tactical victory
+upon this particular field. The brain that had designed the exact
+synchrony of Stamford Bridge and the famous march southward from the
+Humber was of that sort which is only found once in many centuries of
+the history of war and which is (it may be said without boasting)
+peculiar to this island.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Another general would have awaited the second charge with its useless
+butchery and still more useless contest for the barren name of victory.
+Not so Harold. Those commanding, cold grey eyes of his swept the line in
+a comprehensive glance, and though no written record of the detail
+remains, he must know little of the character of the man who does not
+understand that from Harold certainly proceeded the order for what
+followed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The forces at the centre, which he commanded in person, deftly withdrew
+before the futile gallop of William's cavalry, leaving, with that
+coolness which has ever distinguished our troops, the laggards to their
+fate. At the same moment, and with marvellous precision, the left and
+right were withdrawn from the plateau rapidly and as by magic, and the
+old-fashioned tactics of mere impact (which William of Normandy seems
+seriously to have relied on!) were spent and wasted upon the now
+evacuated summit of the hill.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What followed is famous in history.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The cohesion of the Saxon force and the exactitude and coolness with
+which its great operation was performed is of good augury for the future
+of our country. Though it was now thick night, by no set road and with
+no cumbersome machinery of train and rear-guard, the whole of the vast
+assembly masked itself behind the woodlands of the Weald.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Norman horsemen, bewildered and fatigued, gazed on the many that had
+fallen in defence of the masking position and wondered whether such
+novel happenings were victory or no, but the army whose concentration
+upon the Thames it was William's whole object to prevent, was already
+miles northward, each unit proceeding by exactly co-ordinated routes
+towards London.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is perhaps no more difficult task set before soldiers than the
+quiet execution of such a manoeuvre after the heat of a heavy action,
+and none have performed it more magnificently than the veteran troop of
+Harold.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When (luckily) all the orders had been finally distributed a great
+tragedy marred the completeness of the day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Just before the execution of this masterpiece of strategy, and as the
+autumn sun was sinking, the inevitable price which war demands of all
+its darlings was paid.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Harold himself, the artist of the great victory, fell. But we have no
+reason to believe that his loss retarded the retrograding movement in
+any degree. Men who create as Harold created have not their creations
+spoilt by death.
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p>
+The shameful history of the close of the campaign is familiar to every
+schoolboy, and the military historian must be pardoned if he deals with
+a purely civilian blunder in a few brief words.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Parliament interfered--as it always does--with what should have been a
+matter for soldiers alone. Intrigues, bribery, or worse (with which the
+military historian has no concern) ruined what had been, in the field,
+one of the principal achievements of the Saxon arms. And William, who
+could not count to hold his own against regular forces and who was
+astonished to find himself free to retreat precipitately on Dover, was
+still more astonished to find himself accepted a few weeks later after
+an aimless march to the west and north by the politicians--or worse--at
+Berkhampstead. He and England were equally astounded to find that a
+broken and defeated invader could actually be accepted by the intriguers
+at Westminster and crowned King of England as the price of a secret
+bargain.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Such was the fruit of as great and successful an effort as ever Saxon
+soldier made: the Battle of Senlac: for such--as I am now free to
+reveal--was the true name of the field of action.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The ineptitude or avarice of politicians had undone the work of
+soldiers, and it is no wonder that the last of Harold's veterans, who
+retired in disgust to impregnable fortresses in Ely, Arthur's Seat, and
+Pudsey, are recorded to have gnashed their teeth and shed tears of
+indignation at the dispatches from the metropolis. At Crcy they were to
+be avenged.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="roman">The Roman Roads in Picardy</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+If a man were asked where he would find upon the map the sharpest
+impress of Rome and of the memories of Rome, and where he would most
+easily discover in a few days on foot the foundations upon which our
+civilization still rests, he might, in proportion to his knowledge of
+history and of Europe, be puzzled to reply. He might say that a week
+along the wall from Tyne to Solway would be the answer; or a week in the
+great Roman cities of Provence with their triumphal arches and their
+vast arenas and their Roman stone cropping out everywhere: in old quays,
+in ruined bridges, in the very pavement of the streets they use to-day,
+and in the columns of their living churches.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now I was surprised to find myself after many years of dabbling in such
+things, furnishing myself the answer in quite a different place. It was
+in Picardy during the late manoeuvres of the French Army that, in the
+intervals of watching those great buzzing flies, the aeroplanes, and in
+the intervals of long tramps after the regiments or of watching the
+massed guns, the necessity for perpetually consulting the map brought
+home to me for the first time this truth--that Picardy is the
+province--or to be more accurate, Picardy with its marches in the le de
+France, the edge of Normandy and the edge of Flanders--which retains
+to-day the most vivid impress of Rome. For though the great buildings
+are lacking, and the Roman work, which must here have been mainly of
+brick, has crumbled, and though I can remember nothing upstanding and
+patently of the Empire between the gate of Rheims and the frontier of
+Artois, yet one feature--the Roman road--is here so evident, so
+multiple, and so enduring that it makes up for all the rest.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One discovers the old roads upon the map, one after the other, with a
+sort of surprise. The scheme develops before one as one looks, and
+always when one thinks one has completed the web another and yet another
+straight arrow of a line reveals itself across the page.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The map is a sort of palimpsest. A mass of fine modern roads, a whole
+red blur of lanes and local ways, the big, rare black lines of the
+railway--these are the recent writing, as it were; but underneath the
+whole, more and more apparent and in greater and greater numbers as one
+learns to discover them, are the strict, taut lines which Rome stretched
+over all those plains.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is something most fascinating in noting them, and discovering them
+one after the other.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For they need discovering. No one of them is still in complete use. The
+greater part must be pieced together from lengths of lanes which turn
+into broad roads, and then suddenly sink again into footpaths, rights of
+way, or green forest rides.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Often, as with our rarer Roman roads in England, all trace of the thing
+disappears under the plough or in the soft crossings of the river
+valleys; one marks them by the straightness of their alignment, by the
+place names which lie upon them (the repeated name Estree, for instance,
+which is like the place name "street" upon the Roman roads of England);
+by the recovery of them after a gap; by the discoveries which local
+archaeology has made.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Different men have different pastimes, and I dare say that most of those
+who read this will wonder that such a search should be a pastime for any
+man, but I confess it is a pastime for me. To discover these things, to
+recreate them, to dig out on foot the base upon which two thousand years
+of history repose, is the most fascinating kind of travel.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And then, the number of them! You may take an oblong of country with
+Maubeuge at one corner, Pontoise at another, Yvetot and some frontier
+town such as Fumes for the other two corners, and in that stretch of
+country a hundred and fifty miles by perhaps two hundred, you can build
+up a scheme of Roman ways almost as complete as the scheme of the great
+roads to-day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+That one which most immediately strikes the eye is the great line which
+darts upon Rouen from Paris.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Twice broken at the crossing of the river valleys, and lost altogether
+in the last twelve miles before the capital of Normandy, it still stands
+on the modern map a great modern road with every aspect of purpose and
+of intention in its going.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From Amiens again they radiate out, these roads, some, like the way to
+Cambray, in use every mile; some, like the old marching road to the sea,
+to the Portus Itius, to Boulogne, a mere lane often wholly lost and
+never used as a great modern road. This was the way along which the
+French feudal cavalry trailed to the disaster of Crcy, and just beyond
+Crcy it goes and loses itself in that exasperating but fascinating
+manner which is the whole charm of Roman roads wherever the hunter finds
+them. You may lay a ruler along this old forgotten track, all the way
+past Domqueur, Novelle (which is called Novelle-en-Chausse, that is
+Novelle on the paved road), on past Estre (where from the height you
+overlook the battlefield of Crcy), and that ruler so lying on your map
+points right at Boulogne Harbour, thirty odd miles away--and in all
+those thirty odd remaining miles I could not find another yard of it.
+But what an interest! What a hobby to develop! There is nothing like it
+in all the kinds of hunting that have ever been invented for filling up
+the whole of the mind. True, you will get no sauce of danger, but, on
+the other hand, you will hunt for weeks and weeks, and you will come
+back year after year and go on with your hunting, and sometimes you
+actually find--which is more than can be said for hunting some animals
+in the Weald.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+How was it lost, this great main road of Europe, this marching road of
+the legions, linking up Gaul and Britain, the way that Hadrian went, and
+the way down which the usurper Constantine III must have come during
+that short adventure of his which lends such a romance to the end of the
+Empire? One cannot conceive why it should have disappeared. It is a
+sunken way down the hillside across the light railway which serves
+Crcy, it gets vaguer and vaguer, for all the world like those ridges
+upon the chalk that mark the Roman roads in England, and then it is
+gone. It leaves you pointing, I say, at that distant harbour, thirty odd
+miles off, but over all those miles it has vanished. The ghost of the
+legends cannot march along it any more. In one place you find a few
+yards of it about three miles south and east of Montreuil. It may be
+that the little lane leading into Estre shows where it crossed the
+valley of the Cauche, but it is all guesswork, and therefore very proper
+to the huntsman.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then there is that unbroken line by which St. Martin came, I think, when
+he rode into Amiens, and at the gate of the town cut his cloak in two to
+cover the beggar. It drives across country for Roye and on to Noyon, the
+old centre of the Kings. It is a great modern road all the way, and it
+stretches before you mile after mile after mile, until suddenly, without
+explanation and for no reason, it ends sharply, like the life of a man.
+It ends on the slopes of the hill called Choisy, at the edge of the wood
+which is there. And seek as you will, you will never find it again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+From that road also, near Amiens, branches out another, whose object was
+St. Quentin, first as a great high road, lost in the valley of the
+Somme, a lesser road again, still in one strict alignment, it reaches on
+to within a mile of Vermand, and there it stops dead. I do not think
+that between Vermand and St. Quentin you will find it. Go out
+north-westward from Vermand and walk perhaps five miles, or seven: there
+is no trace of a road, only the rare country lanes winding in and out,
+and the open plough of the rolling land. But continue by your compass so
+and you will come (suddenly again and with no apparent reason for its
+abrupt origin) upon the dead straight line that ran from the capital of
+the Nervii, three days' march and more, and pointing all the time
+straight at Vermand.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And so it is throughout the province and its neighbourhood. Here and
+there, as at Bavai, a great capital has decayed. Here and there (but
+more rarely), a town wholly new has sprung up since the Romans, but the
+plan of the country is the same as that which they laid down, and the
+roads as you discover them, mark it out and establish it. The armies
+that you see marching to-day in their manoeuvres follow for half a
+morning the line which was taken by the Legions.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="reward">The Reward of Letters</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+It has often been remarked that while all countries in the world possess
+some sort of literature, as Iceland her Sagas, England her daily papers,
+France her prose writers and dramatists, and even Prussia her railway
+guides, one nation and one alone, the Empire of Monomotopa, is utterly
+innocent of this embellishment or frill.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+No traveller records the existence of any Monomotopan quill-driver; no
+modern visitor to that delightful island has come across a
+<i>littrateur</i> whether in the worse or in the best hotels; and such
+reading as the inhabitants enjoy is entirely confined to works imported
+by large steamers from the neighbouring Antarctic Continent.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The causes of this singular and happy state of affairs were unknown
+(since the common histories did not mention them) until the recent
+discovery by Mr. Paley, the chief authority upon Monomotopan hieratic
+script, of a very ancient inscription which clearly sets forth the whole
+business.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It seems that an Emperor of Monomotopa, whose date can be accurately
+fixed by internal evidence to lie after the universal deluge and before
+the building of the Pyramid of Cheops, was, upon his accession to the
+throne, particularly concerned with the just repartition of taxes among
+his beloved subjects.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It would seem (if we are to trust the inscription) that in a past still
+more remote the taxes were so light that even the richest men would meet
+them promptly and without complaining, but this was at a period when the
+enemies of Monomotopa were at once distant and actively engaged in
+quarrelling among themselves. With sickening treachery these distant
+rival nations had determined to produce wealth and to live in amity, so
+that it was incumbent upon the Monomotopans not only to build ships, but
+actually to provide an army, and at last (what broke the camel's back)
+to establish fortifications of a very useless but expensive sort upon a
+dozen points of their Imperial coast.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Under the increasing strain the old fiscal system broke down. The poor
+were clearly embarrassed, as might be seen in their emaciated visages
+and from the terrible condition of their boots. The rich had reached the
+point after which it was inconvenient to them to pay any more. The
+middle classes were spending the greater part of their time in devising
+methods by which the exorbitant and intempestive demands of the
+collectors could be either evaded or, more rarely, complied with. In a
+word, a new and juster system of taxation was an imperative need, and
+the Emperor, who had just ascended the throne at the age of eighteen,
+and whom a sort of greenness had preserved from the iniquities of this
+world, was determined to effect the great reform.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+With the advice of his Ministers (all of whom had had considerable
+experience in the handling of money), the Emperor at last determined
+that each man and woman should pay to the State one-tenth and no more of
+the wealth which he or she produced; those who produced nothing it was
+but common justice and reason to exempt, and the effect of this tardy
+act of justice upon the very rich was observed in the sudden increase of
+the death-rate from all those diseases that are the peculiar product of
+luxury and evil living. Paupers also, the unemployed, cripples,
+imbeciles, deaf mutes, and the clergy escaped under this beneficent and
+equable statute, and we may sum up the whole policy by saying that never
+was a law acclaimed with so much happy bewilderment nor subject to less
+expressed criticism than this.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was, moreover, easy to estimate in this new fashion the total revenue
+of the State, since its produce had been accurately set down by
+statisticians of the utmost eminence, and one of these diverse documents
+had been taken for the basis of the new fiscal regime.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In practice also the collection was easy. Overseers would attend the
+harvest with large carts, prong the tenth turnip, hoick up the tenth
+sheaf of wheat, bucket out the tenth gallon of ale, and so forth. In the
+markets every tenth animal was removed by Imperial officers, every tenth
+newspaper was impounded as it left the press, and every tenth drink
+about to be consumed in the hostelries of the Empire was, after a
+simulacrum of proffering it, suddenly removed by the waiter and poured
+into a receptacle, the keys of which were very jealously guarded.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was the same with the liberal professions: of the fee received by a
+barrister in the Criminal Courts a tenth was regularly demanded at the
+door when the verdict had been given and the prisoner whom he had
+defended passed out to execution. The tenth knock-out in the prize ring
+received by the professional pugilist was followed by the immediate
+sequestration of his fee for that particular encounter, and the tenth
+aria vibrating from the lips of a prima donna was either compounded for
+at a certain rate or taken in kind by the official who attended at every
+performance of grand opera.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One form of wealth alone puzzled the beneficent monarch and his
+Napoleonic advisers, and this was the production (for it then existed)
+of literary matter.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At first this seemed as simple to tax as any one of the other numerous
+activities upon which the Emperor's loyal and loving subjects were
+engaged. A brief examination of the customs of the trade, conducted by
+an army of officials who penetrated into the very dens and attics in
+which Letters are evolved, reported that the method of payment was by
+the measurement of a number of words.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is, your Majesty," wrote the permanent official of the department in
+his minute, "the practice of those who charitably employ this sort of
+person to pay them in classes by the thousand words; thus one man gets
+one sequin a thousand, another two byzants, a third as much as a ducat,
+while some who have singularly attracted the notice of the public can
+command ten, twenty, nay forty scutcheons, and in some very exceptional
+cases a thousand words command one of those beautiful pieces of stiff
+paper which your Majesty in his bountiful provision tenders to his
+dutiful subjects for acceptance as metal under diverse penalties. The
+just taxation of these fellows can therefore be easily achieved if your
+Majesty, in the exercise of his almost superhuman wisdom, will but add a
+schedule to the Finance Act in which there shall be set down fifteen or
+twenty classes of writers, with their price per thousand words, and a
+compulsory registration of each class, enforced by the rude hand of the
+police."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Emperor of Monomotopa immediately nominated a Royal Commission
+(unpaid), among whose sons, nephews, and private friends the salaried
+posts connected with the work were distributed. This Commission reported
+by a majority of one ere two years had elapsed. The schedule was
+designed, and such <i>littrateurs</i> as had not in the interval fled
+the country were registered, while a further enactment strictly
+forbidding their employers to make payment upon any other system
+completed the scheme.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But, alas! so full of low cunning and dirty dodges is this kind of man
+(I mean what we call authors) that very soon after the promulgation of
+the new law a marked deterioration in the quality of Monomotopan letters
+was apparent upon every side!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The citizen opening his morning paper would be astonished to find the
+leading article consist of nothing more original than a portion of the
+sacred Scriptures. A novel bought to ease the tedium of a journey would
+consist of long catalogues for the most part, and when it came to
+descriptions of scenery would fall into the most minute and detailed
+category of every conceivable feature of the landscape. Some even took
+advantage of the new regulation so far as to repeat one single word an
+interminable number of times, while it was remarked with shame by the
+Ministers of Religion that the morals of their literary friends
+permitted them only to use words of one syllable, and those of the
+shortest kind. And this they said was the only true and original
+Monomotopan dialect.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Such was the public inconvenience that next year a sharper and much more
+drastic law was passed, by which it was laid down that every literary
+composition should make sense within the meaning of the Act, and should
+be original so far as the reading of the judge appointed for the trial
+of the case extended. But though after the first few executions this law
+was generally observed, the nasty fellows affected by it managed to
+evade it in spirit, for by the use of obscure terms, of words drawn from
+dead languages, and of bold metaphor transferred from one art to
+another, they would deliberately invite prosecution, and then in the
+witness-box make fools of those plain men, the judge and jury, by
+showing that this apparently meaningless claptrap could, with sufficient
+ingenuity, be made to yield some sort of sense, and during this period
+no art critic was put to death.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Driven to desperation, the Emperor changed the whole basis of the
+Remuneration of Literary Labour, and ordered that it should be by the
+length of the prose or poetry measured in inches.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This reform, however, did but add to the confusion, for while the men of
+the pen wrote their works entirely in short dialogue, asterisks, and
+blanks, the publishers, who were now thoroughly organized, printed the
+same in smaller and smaller type, in order to avoid the consequences of
+the law.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+At this last piece of insolence the Emperor's mind was quickly decided.
+Arresting one night not only all those who had ever written, but all
+those who had even boasted of letters, or who were so much as suspected
+by their relatives of secretly indulging in them, he turned the whole
+two million into a large but enclosed area, and (desiring to kill two
+birds with one stone) offered the ensuing spectacle as an amusement to
+the more sober and respectable sections of the community.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is well known that the profession of letters breeds in its followers
+an undying hatred of each against his fellows. The public were therefore
+entertained for a whole day with the pleasing sight of a violent but
+quite disordered battle, in which each of the wretched prisoners seemed
+animated by no desire but the destruction of as many as possible of his
+hated rivals, until at last every soul of these detestable creatures had
+left its puny body and the State was rid of all.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A law which carried to the universities the rule of the primary
+schools--to wit, that men should be taught to read but not to
+write--completed the good work. And there was peace.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="eye">The Eye-Openers</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+Without any doubt whatsoever, the one characteristic of the towns is
+the lack of reality in the impressions of the many: now we live in
+towns: and posterity will be astounded at us! It isn't only that we get
+our impressions for the most part as imaginary pictures called up by
+printer's ink--that would be bad enough; but by some curious perversion
+of the modern mind, printer's ink ends by actually preventing one from
+seeing things that are there; and sometimes, when one says to another
+who has not travelled, "Travel!" one wonders whether, after all, if he
+does travel, he will see the things before his eyes? If he does, he will
+find a new world; and there is more to be discovered in this fashion
+to-day than ever there was.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have sometimes wished that every Anglo-Saxon who from these shores has
+sailed and seen for the first time the other Anglo-Saxons in New York or
+Melbourne, would write in quite a short letter what he really felt.
+Ninety-nine times out of a hundred men only write what they have read
+before they started, just as Rousseau in an eighteenth-century village
+believed that every English yokel could vote and that his vote conveyed
+a high initiative, making and unmaking the policy of the State; or just
+as people, hearing that the birth-rate of France is low, travel in that
+country and say they can see no children--though they would hardly say
+it about Sussex or Cumberland where the birth-rate is lower still.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+What travel does in the way of pleasure (the providing of new and fresh
+sensations, and the expansion of experience), that it ought to do in the
+way of knowledge. It ought to and it does, with the wise, provide a
+complete course of unlearning the wretched tags with which the sham
+culture of our great towns has filled us. For instance, of Barbary--the
+lions do not live in deserts; they live in woods. The peasants of
+Barbary are not Semitic in appearance or in character; Barbary is full
+to the eye, not of Arab and Oriental buildings--they are not
+striking--but of great Roman monuments: they are altogether the most
+important things in the place. Barbary is not hot, as a whole: most of
+Barbary is extremely cold between November and March. The inhabitants of
+Barbary do not like a wild life, they are extremely fond of what
+civilization can give them, such as <i>crme de menthe</i>, rifles, good
+waterworks, maps, and railways: only they would like to have these
+things without the bother of strict laws and of the police, and so
+forth. Travel in Barbary with seeing eyes and you find out all this new
+truth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now it took the French forty years and more before each of these plain
+facts (and I have only cited half a dozen out of as many hundred) got
+into their letters and their print: they have not yet got into the
+letters and the print of other nations. But an honest man travelling in
+Barbary on his own account would pick up every one of these truths in
+two or three days, except the one about the lions; to pick up that truth
+you must go to the very edge of the country, for the lion is a shy beast
+and withdraws from men.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The wise man who really wants to see things as they are and to
+understand them, does not say: "Here I am on the burning soil of
+Africa." He says: "Here I am stuck in a snowdrift and the train twelve
+hours late"--as it was (with me in it) near Stif in January, 1905. He
+does not say as he looks on the peasant at his plough outside Batna:
+"Observe yon Semite!" He says: "That man's face is exactly like the face
+of a dark Sussex peasant, only a little leaner." He does not say: "See
+those wild sons of the desert! How they must hate the new artificial
+world around them!" Contrariwise, he says: "See those four Mohammedans
+playing cards with a French pack of cards and drinking liqueurs in the
+caf! See, they have ordered more liqueurs!" He does not say: "How
+strange and terrible a thing the railway must be to them!" He says: "I
+wish I was rich enough to travel first, for the natives pouring in and
+out of this third-class carriage, jabbering like monkeys, and treading
+on my feet, disturb my tranquillity. Some hundreds must have got in and
+out during the last fifty miles!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In other words, the wise man has permitted eye-openers to rain upon him
+their full, beneficent, and sacramental influence. And if a man in
+travelling will always maintain his mind ready for what he really sees
+and hears, he will become a whole nest of Columbuses discovering a
+perfectly interminable series of new worlds.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A man can only talk of what he himself knows. Let me give further
+examples. I had always heard until I visited the Pyrenees how French
+civilization (especially in the matter of roads, motors, and things like
+that) went up to the "Spanish" frontier and then stopped dead. It
+doesn't. The change is at the Aragonese frontier. On the Basque third of
+the frontier the people are just as active and fond of wealth, and of
+scraping of stone and of cleanliness, and of drawing straight lines, to
+the north as to the south of it. They are all one people, as
+industrious, as thrifty, and as prosperous as the Scots. So are the
+Catalans one people, and you get much the same sort of advantages and
+disadvantages (apart from the effect of government) with the Catalans to
+the north as with the Catalans to the south of the border.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So with religion. I had thought to find the Spanish churches crowded. I
+found just the contrary. It was the French churches that were crowded,
+not the Spanish; and the difference between the truth--what one really
+sees and hears--and the printed legend happens to be very subtly
+illustrated in this case of religion. The French have inherited (and are
+by this time used to, and have, perhaps grown fond of) a big religious
+debate. Those who side with the national religion and tradition
+emphasize their opinion in every possible way--so do their opponents.
+You pick up two newspapers from Toulouse, for instance, and it is quite
+on the cards that the leading article of each will be a disquisition
+upon the philosophy of religion, the one, the "Depche" of Toulouse,
+militantly, and often solently atheist; the other as militantly
+Catholic.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You don't get that in Pamplona, and you don't get it in Saragossa. What
+you get there is a profound dislike of being interfered with, ancient
+and lazy customs, wealth retained by the chapters, the monasteries, and
+the colleges, and with all this a curious, all-pervading indifference.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One might end this little train of thought by considering a converse
+test of what the eye-opener is in travel; and that test is to talk to
+foreigners when they first come to England and see how they tend to
+discover in England what they have read of at home instead of what they
+really see. There have been very few fogs in London of late, but your
+foreigner nearly always finds London foggy. Kent does not show along its
+main railway line the evidence of agricultural depression: it is like a
+garden. Yet, in a very careful and thorough French book just published
+by a French traveller, his bird's-eye view of the country as he went
+through Kent just after landing would make you think the place a desert;
+he seems to have thought the hedges a sign of agricultural decay. The
+same foreigner will discover a plebeian character in the Commons and an
+aristocratic one in the House of Lords, though he shall have heard but
+four speeches in each, and though every one of the eight speeches shall
+have been delivered by members of one family group closely intermarried,
+wealthy, titled, and perhaps (who knows?) of some lineage as well.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The moral is that one should tell the truth to oneself, and look out for
+it outside one. It is quite as novel and as entertaining as the
+discovery of the North Pole--or, in case that has come off (as some
+believe), the discovery of the South Pole.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="public">The Public</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+I notice a very curious thing in the actions particularly of business
+men to-day, and of other men also, which is the projection outward from
+their own inward minds of something which is called "The Public"--and
+which is not there.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I do not mean that a business man is wrong when he says that "the public
+will demand" such and such an article, and on producing the article
+finds it sells widely; he is obviously and demonstrably right in his use
+of the word "public" in such a connexion. Nor is a man wrong or subject
+to illusion when he says, "The public have taken to cinematograph
+shows," or "The public were greatly moved when the Hull fishermen were
+shot at by the Russian fleet in the North Sea." What I mean is "The
+Public" as an excuse or scapegoat; the Public as a menace; the Public as
+a butt. That Public simply does not exist.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For instance, the publisher will say, as though he were talking of some
+monster, "The Public will not buy Jinks's work. It is first-class work,
+so it is too good for the Public." He is quite right in his statement of
+fact. Of the very small proportion of our people who read only a
+fraction buy books, and of the fraction that buy books very few indeed
+buy Jinks's. Jinks has a very pleasant up-and-down style. He loves to
+use funny words dragged from the tomb, and he has delicate little
+emotions. Yet hardly anybody will buy him--so the publisher is quite
+right in one sense when he says, "The Public" won't buy Jinks. But where
+he is quite wrong and suffering from a gross illusion is in the motive
+and the manner of his saying it. He talks of "The Public" as something
+gravely to blame and yet irredeemably stupid. He talks of it as
+something quite external to himself, almost as something which he has
+never personally come across. He talks of it as though it were a Mammoth
+or an Eskimo. Now, if that publisher would wander for a moment into the
+world of realities he would perceive his illusion. Modern men do not
+like realities, and do not usually know the way to come in contact with
+them. I will tell the publisher how to do so in this case.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Let him consider what books he buys himself, what books his wife buys;
+what books his eldest son, his grandmother, his Aunt Jane, his old
+father, his butler (if he runs to one), his most intimate friend, and
+his curate buy. He will find that not one of these people buys Jinks.
+Most of them will talk Jinks, and if Jinks writes a play, however dull,
+they will probably go and see it once; but they draw the line at buying
+Jinks's books--and I don't blame them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The moral is very simple. You yourselves are "The Public," and if you
+will watch your own habits you will find that the economic explanation
+of a hundred things becomes quite clear.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have seen the same thing in the offices of a newspaper. Some simple
+truth of commanding interest to this country, involving no attack upon
+any rich man, and therefore not dangerous under our laws, comes up for
+printing. It is discussed in the editor's room. The editor says, "Yes,
+of course, we know it is true, and of course it is important, but the
+Public would not stand it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I remember one newspaper office of my youth in which the Public was
+visualized as a long file of people streaming into a Wesleyan chapel,
+and another in which the Public was supposed to be made up without
+exception of retired officers and maiden ladies, every one of whom was a
+communicant of the English Established Church, every one of good birth,
+and yet every one devoid of culture.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Without the least doubt each of these absurd symbols haunted the brain
+of each of the editors in question. The editor of the first paper would
+print at wearisome length accounts of obscure Catholic clerical scandals
+on the Continent, and would sweat with alarm if his sub-editors had
+admitted a telegram concerning the trial of some fraudulent Protestant
+missionary or other in China.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Meanwhile his rather dull paper was being bought by you and me, and bank
+clerks and foreign tourists, and doctors, and publicans, and brokers,
+Catholics, Protestants, atheists, "peculiar people," and every kind of
+man for many reasons--because it had the best social statistics, because
+it had a very good dramatic critic, because they had got into the habit
+and couldn't stop, because it came nearest to hand on the bookstall. Of
+a hundred readers, ninety-nine skipped the clerical scandal and either
+chuckled over the fraudulent missionary or were bored by him and went on
+to the gambling news from the Stock Exchange. But the type for whom all
+that paper was produced, the menacing god or demon who was supposed to
+forbid publication of certain news in it, did not exist.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So it was with the second paper, but with this difference, that the
+editor was right about the social position of those who read his sheet,
+but quite wrong about the opinions and emotions of people in that social
+position.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was all the more astonishing from the fact that the editor was born
+in that very class himself and perpetually mixed with it. No one perhaps
+read "The Stodge" (for under this device would I veil the true name of
+the organ) more carefully than those retired officers of either service
+who are to be found in what are called our "residential" towns. The
+editor was himself the son of a colonel of guns who had settled down in
+a Midland watering-place. He ought to have known that world, and he did
+know that world, but he kept his illusion of his Public quite apart from
+his experience of realities.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Your retired officer (to take his particular section of this particular
+paper's audience) is nearly always a man with a hobby, and usually a
+good scientific or literary hobby at that. He writes many of our best
+books demanding research. He takes an active part in public work which
+requires statistical study. He is always a travelled man, and nearly
+always a well-read man. The broadest and the most complete questioning
+and turning and returning of the most fundamental subjects--religion,
+foreign policy, and domestic economics--are quite familiar to him. But
+the editor was not selecting news for that real man; he was selecting
+news for an imaginary retired officer of inconceivable stupidity and
+ignorance, redeemed by a childlike simplicity. If a book came in, for
+instance, on biology, and there was a chance of having it reviewed by
+one of the first biologists of the day, he would say: "Oh, our Public
+won't stand evolution," and he would trot out his imaginary retired
+officer as though he were a mule.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Artists, by which I mean painters, and more especially art critics, sin
+in this respect. They say: "The public wants a picture to tell a story,"
+and they say it with a sneer. Well, the public does want a picture to
+tell a story, because you and I want a picture to tell a story. Sorry.
+But so it is. The art critic himself wants it to tell a story, and so
+does the artist. Each would rather die than admit it, but if you set
+either walking, with no one to watch him, down a row of pictures you
+would see him looking at one picture after another with that expression
+of interest which only comes on a human face when it is following a
+human relation. A mere splash of colour would bore him; still more a
+mere medley of black and white. The story may have a very simple plot;
+it may be no more than an old woman sitting on a chair, or a landscape,
+but a picture, if a man can look at it all, tells a story right enough.
+It must interest men, and the less of a story it tells the less it will
+interest men. A good landscape tells so vivid a story that children (who
+are unspoilt) actually transfer themselves into such a landscape, walk
+about in it, and have adventures in it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They make another complaint against the public, that it desires painting
+to be lifelike. Of course it does! The statement is accurate, but the
+complaint is based on an illusion. It is you and I and all the world
+that want painting to imitate its object. There is a wonderful picture
+in the Glasgow Art Gallery, painted by someone a long time ago, in which
+a man is represented in a steel cuirass with a fur tippet over it, and
+the whole point of that picture is that the fur looks like fur and the
+steel looks like steel. I never met a critic yet who was so bold as to
+say that picture was a bad picture. It is one of the best pictures in
+the world; but its whole point is the liveliness of the steel and of the
+fur.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Finally, there is one proper test to prove that all this jargon about
+"The Public" is nonsense, which is that it is altogether modern. Who
+quarrelled with the Public in the old days when men lived a healthy
+corporate life, and painted, wrote, or sang for the applause of their
+fellows?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If you still suffer from the illusion after reading these magisterial
+lines of mine, why, there is a drastic way to cure yourself, which is to
+go for a soldier; take the shilling and live in a barracks for a year;
+then buy yourself out. You will never despise the public again. And
+perhaps a better way still is to go round the Horn before the mast. But
+take care that your friends shall send you enough money to Valparaiso
+for your return journey to be made in some comfort; I would not wish my
+worst enemy to go back the way he came.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<p>
+
+</p>
+
+<p>
+
+<h3><a name="entries">On Entries</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+I am always planning in my mind new kinds of guide books. Or, rather,
+new features in guide books.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One such new feature which I am sure would be very useful would be an
+indication to the traveller of how he should approach a place.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I would first presuppose him quite free and able to come by rail or by
+water or by road or on foot across the fields, and then I would describe
+how the many places I have seen stand quite differently in the mind
+according to the way in which one approaches them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The value of travel, to the eye at least, lies in its presentation of
+clear and permanent impressions, and these I think (though some would
+quarrel with me for saying it) are usually instantaneous. It is the
+first sharp vision of an unknown town, the first immediate vision of a
+range of hills, that remains for ever and is fruitful of joy within the
+mind, or, at least, that is one and perhaps the chief of the fruits of
+travel.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I remember once, for instance, waking from a dead sleep in a train (for
+I was very tired) and finding it to be evening. What woke me was the
+sudden stopping of the train. It was in Italy. A man in the carriage
+said to me that there was some sort of accident and that we should be
+waiting a while. The people got out and walked about by the side of the
+track. I also got out of the carriage and took the air, and when I so
+stepped out into the cool of that summer evening I was amazed at the
+loneliness and tragedy of the place.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There were no houses about me that I could see save one little place
+built for the railway men. There was no cultivation either.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Close before me began a sort of swamp with reeds which hardly moved to
+the air, and this gradually merged into a sheet of water above and
+beyond which were hills, barren and not very high, which took the last
+of the daylight, for they looked both southward and to the west. The
+more I watched the extraordinary and absolute scene the less I heard of
+the low voices about me, and indeed a sort of positive silence seemed to
+clothe the darkening landscape. It was full of something quite gone
+down, and one had the impression that it would never be disturbed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As the light lessened, the hills darkened, the sky took on one broad and
+tender colour, the sheet of water gleamed quite white, and the reeds
+stood up like solid shadows against it. I wish I could express in words
+the impression of recollection and of savage mourning which all that
+landscape imposed, but from that impression I was recalled and startled
+by the guard, who came along telling us that things were righted and
+that the train would start again; soon we were in our places and the
+rapid movement isolated for me the memory of a singularly vivid scene. I
+thought the place must have a name, and I asked a neighbour in the
+carriage what it was called; he told me it was called Lake Trasimene.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now I do not say that this tragic site is to be visited thus. It was but
+an accident, though an accident for which I am most grateful to my fate.
+But what I have said here illustrates my meaning that the manner of
+one's approach to any place in travel makes all the difference.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus one may note how very different is Europe seen from the water than
+seen from any other opportunity for travel. So many of the great
+cathedrals were built to dominate men who should watch them from the
+wharves of the mediaeval towns, but I think it is almost a rule if you
+have leisure and can take your choice to choose this kind of entry to
+them. Amiens is quite a different thing seen from the river below it to
+the north and east from what it is seen by a gradual approach along the
+street of a modern town. The roofs climb up at it, and it stands
+enthroned. So Chartres seen from the little Eure; but the Eure is so
+small a river that he would be a bold man who would travel up it all
+this way. Nevertheless it is a good piece of travel, and anyone who will
+undertake it will see Louviers and will pass Anet, where the greatest
+work of the Renaissance once stood, and will go through lonely but rich
+pastures until at last he gets to Chartres by the right gate. Thence he
+will see something astonishing for so flat a region as the Beauce. The
+great church seems mountainous upon a mountain. Its apse completes the
+unclimbable steepness of the hill and its buttresses follow the lines of
+the fall of it. But if you do not come in by the river, at least come in
+by the Orleans road. I suppose that nine people out of ten, even to-day
+when the roads are in proper use again, come into Chartres by that
+northern railway entry, which is for all the world like coming into a
+great house by a big, neglected backyard.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then if ever you have business that takes you to Bayonne, come in by
+river and from the sea, and how well you will understand the little town
+and its lovely northern Gothic!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Some of the great churches all the world knows must be seen from the
+water, and most of the world so sees them. Ely is one, Cologne is
+another, but how many people have looked right up at Durham as at a
+cliff from that gorge below, or how many have seen the height of Albi
+from the Tarn?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As for famous cities with their walls, there is no doubt that a man
+should approach them by the chief high road, which once linked them with
+their capital, or with their nearest port, or with Rome--and that
+although this kind of entry is nowadays often marred by ugly suburbs.
+You will get much your finest sight of Segovia as you come in by the
+road from the Guadarama and from Madrid. It is from that point that you
+were meant to see the town, and you will get much your best grip on
+Carcassonne, old Carcassonne, if you come in by the road from Toulouse
+at morning as you were meant to come, and so Coucy should be approached
+by that royal road from Soissons and from the south, while as for Laon
+(the most famous of the hill towns), come to it from the east, for it
+looks eastward, and its lords were Eastern lords.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Ranges of hills, I think, are never best first seen from railways.
+Indeed, I can remember no great sight of hills so seen, not even the
+Alps. A railway must of necessity follow the floor of the valley and
+tunnel and creep round the shoulders of the bulwarks. There is perhaps
+one exception to this rule, which is the sight of the Pyrenees from the
+train as one comes into Tarbes. It is a wise thing if you are visiting
+those hills to come into Tarbes by night and sleep there, and then next
+morning the train upon its way to Pau unfolds you all the wall of the
+mountains. But this is an accident. It is because the railway runs upon
+a sort of high platform that you see the mountains so. With all other
+hills that I remember it is best to have them burst suddenly upon you
+from the top of some pass lifted high above the level and coming, let us
+say, to a height half their own. Certainly the Bernese Oberland is more
+wonderful caught in one moment from the Jura than introduced in any
+other way, and the snows on Atlas over the desert seem like part of the
+sky when they come upon one after climbing the red rocks of the high
+plateaux and you see them shining over the salt marshes. The Vosges you
+cannot thus see from a half-height; there is no platform, and that is
+perhaps why the Vosges have not impressed travellers as they should. But
+you can so watch the grand chain of old volcanoes which are the rampart
+of Auvergne. You can stand upon the high wooden ridge of Foreze and see
+them take the morning across the mists and the flat of the Limagne,
+where the Gauls fought Caesar. Further south from the high table of the
+Velay you can see the steep backward escarpment of the Cevennes, inky
+blue, desperately blue, blue like nothing else on earth except the
+mountains in those painters of North Italy, of the parts north and east
+of Venice, the name of whose school escapes me--or, rather, I never knew
+it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now, as for towns that live in a hollow, it is great fun to come upon
+them from above. They are not used to being thus taken at a disadvantage
+and they are both surprised and surprising. There are many towns in
+holes and trenches of Europe which you can thus play "peep-bo" with if
+you will come at them walking. By train they will mean nothing to you.
+You will probably come upon them out of a long, shrieking tunnel, and by
+the high road they mean little more, for the high road will follow the
+vale. But if you come upon them from over their guardian cliffs and
+scars you catch them unawares, and this is a good way of approaching
+them, for you master them, as it were, and spy them out before you enter
+in. You can act thus with Grenoble and with many a town on the Meuse,
+and particularly with Aubusson, which lies in the depths of so dreadful
+a trench that I could wonder how man ever dreamt of living and building
+there.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The most difficult of all places on which to advise, I think, would be
+the very great cities, the capitals. They seem to have to-day no noble
+entries and no proper approach. Perhaps we shall only deal with them
+justly when we can circle down to them through the air and see their
+vast activity splashed over the plain. Anyhow, there is no proper way of
+entering them now that I know of. Berlin is not worth entering at all.
+Rome (a man told me once) could be entered by some particular road over
+the Janiculum, I think--which also, if I remember right, was the way
+that Shelley came--but I despair of Paris, and certainly of London. I
+cannot even recall an entry for Brussels, though Brussels is a
+monumental city with great rewards for those who love the combination of
+building and hills.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Perhaps, after all, the happiest entries of all and the most easy are
+those of our many market towns, small and not swollen in Britain and in
+Northern Gaul and in the Netherlands and in the Valley of the Rhine.
+These hardly ever fail us, and we come upon them in our travels as they
+desire that we should come, and we know them properly as things should
+properly be known--that is, from the beginning.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="companions">Companions of Travel</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+I write of travelling companions in general, and not in particular,
+making of them a composite photograph, as it were, and finding what they
+have in common and what is their type; and in the first place I find
+them to be chance men. For there are some people who cannot travel
+without a set companion who goes with them from Charing Cross all over
+the world and back to Charing Cross again. And there is a pathos in
+this: as Balzac said of marriage, "What a commentary on human life, that
+human beings must associate to endure it." So it is with many who cannot
+endure to travel alone: and some will positively advertise for another
+to go with them.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In a glade of the Sierra Nevada, which, for awful and, as it were,
+permanent beauty seemed not to be of this world, I came upon a man
+slowly driving along the trail a ramshackle cart, in which were a few
+chairs and tables and bedding. He had a long grey beard and wild eyes;
+he was old, and very small like a gnome, but he had not the gnome's
+good-humour. I asked him where he was going, and I slowed down, so as to
+keep pace with his ridiculous horse. For some time he would not answer
+me, and then he said, "Out of this." He added, "I am tired of it." And
+when I asked him, "Of what?" his only answer was an old-fashioned oath.
+But from further complaints which he made I gathered that what he was
+tired of was clearing forests, digging ground, paying debts, and in
+general living upon this unhappy earth. He did not like me very much,
+and though I would willingly have learned more, he would tell me nothing
+further, so when we got to a place where there was a little stream I
+went on and left him.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have never forgotten the sadness of this man. Where he was going, and
+what he expected to do, or what opportunities he had, I have never
+understood. Though some years after, in quite another place--namely,
+Steyning, in Sussex--I came upon just such another, whose quarrel was
+with the English climate, the rich and the poor, and the whole
+constitution of God's earth. These are the advantages of travel, that
+one meets so many men whom one would otherwise never meet, and that one
+feeds as it were upon the complexity of mankind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus in a village called Encamps, in the depths of Andorra, where no man
+has ever killed another, I found a man with a blue face, who was a
+fossil, the kind of man you would never find in the swelling life of
+Western Europe. He was emancipated, he had studied in Perpignan, over
+and beyond the great hills. He could not see why he should pay taxes to
+support a priest. "The priests" he assured me, "say the most ridiculous
+things. They narrate the most impossible fables. They affirm what cannot
+possibly be true. All that they say is in opposition to science. If I am
+ill, can a priest cure me? No. Can a priest tell me how to build, or how
+to light my house? He is unable to do so. He is a useless and a lying
+mouth, why should I feed him?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I questioned this man very closely, and discovered that in his view the
+world slowly changed from worse to better, and to accelerate this
+process enlightenment alone was needed. "But what do these brutes," he
+said, alluding to his fellow-countrymen, "know of enlightenment? They do
+not even make roads, because the priests forbid them."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I could write at length upon this man. He was not a Sceptic as you may
+imagine, nor had he adopted the Lucretian form of Epicureanism. Not a
+bit of it. He was a hearty Atheist, with Positivist leanings. I further
+found that he had married a woman older, wealthier, and if possible
+uglier than himself. She kept the inn, and was very kind to him. His
+life would have been quite happy had he not been tortured by the
+monstrous superstitions of others.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then, again, in the town of Marseilles, only two years ago, I met a man
+who looked well fed, and had a stalwart, square French face, and whose
+politico-economic ideal, though it was not mine, greatly moved me. It
+was just past midnight, and I was throwing little stones into the old
+Greek harbour, the stench and the glory of which are nearly three
+thousand years old; I was to be off at dawn upon a tramp steamer, and I
+had so determined to pass the few hours of darkness.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I was throwing pebbles into the water, I say, and thinking about
+Ulysses, when this man came slouching up, with his hands in the pockets
+of his enormous corduroy trousers, and, looking at me with some contempt
+from above (for he was standing, I was sitting), he began to converse
+with me. We talked first of ships, then of heat and cold, and so on to
+wealth and poverty; and thus it was I came upon his views, which were
+that there should be a sort of break up, and houses ought to be burned,
+and things smashed, and people killed; and over and above this, it
+should be made plain that no one had a right to govern: not the people,
+because they were always being bamboozled; obviously not the rich; least
+of all, the politicians, to whom he justly applied the most derogatory
+epithets. He waved his arm out in the darkness at the Phoceans, at the
+half-million of Marseilles, and said, "All that should disappear." The
+constructive side of his politico-economic scheme was negative. He was a
+practical man. None of your fine theories for him. One step at a time.
+Let there be a Chambardement--that is, a noisy collapse, and he would
+think about what to do afterwards.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+His was not the narrow, deductive mind. He was objective and concrete.
+Believe me or not, he was paid an excellent wage by the municipality to
+prevent people like me, who sit up at night, from doing mischief in the
+harbour. When I had come to an end of his politico-economic scheme--the
+main lines of which were so clear and simple that a child could
+understand them--we fell to talking of the tides, and I told him that in
+my country the sea went up and down. He was no rustic, and would have no
+such commonplace truths. He was well acquainted with the Phenomenon of
+the Tides; it was due to the combined attraction of the sun and of the
+moon. But when I told him I knew places where the tides fell thirty or
+forty feet, we would have had a violent quarrel had I not prudently
+admitted that that was romantic exaggeration, and that five or six was
+the most that one ever saw it move. I avoided the quarrel, but the
+little incident broke up our friendship, and he shuffled away. He did
+not like having his leg pulled.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There are many others I remember. Those I have written about elsewhere I
+am ashamed to recall, as the man at Jedburgh, who first expounded to me
+how one knew all about the fate of the individual soul, and then
+objected to personal questions about his own; the German officer man at
+Aix-la-Chapelle, who had hair the colour of tow, and gave me minute
+details of the method by which England was to be destroyed; a man I met
+upon the Appian Way, who told the most abominable lies; and another man
+who met me outside Oxford station during the Vac. and offered to show me
+the sights of the town for a consideration, which he did, but I would
+not pay him because he was inaccurate, as I easily proved by a few
+searching questions upon the exact site of Bocardo (of which he had
+never heard), and the negative evidence against a Roman origin for the
+site of the city. Moreover, he said that Trinity was St. John's, which
+was rubbish.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then there was another man who travelled with me from Birmingham,
+pressed certain tracts upon me, and wanted to charge me sixpence each at
+Paddington. But if I were to speak of even these few I should exceed.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="sources">On the Sources of Rivers</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+There are certain customs in man the permanence of which gives infinite
+pleasure. When the mood of the schools is against them these customs lie
+in wait beneath the floors of society, but they never die, and when a
+decay in pedantry or in despotism or in any other evil and inhuman
+influence permits them to reappear they reappear.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One of these customs is the religious attachment of man to isolated high
+places, peaks, and single striking hills. On these he must build
+shrines, and though he is a little furtive about it nowadays, yet the
+instinct is there, strong as ever. I have not often come to the top of a
+high hill with another man but I have seen him put a few stones together
+when he got there, or, if he had not the moral courage so to satisfy his
+soul, he would never fail on such an occasion to say something ritual and
+quasi-religious, even if it were only about the view; and another instinct
+of the same sort is the worship of the sources of rivers.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Iconoclast and the people whose pride it is that their senses are
+dead will see in a river nothing more than so much moisture gathered in
+a narrow place and falling as the mystery of gravitation inclines it.
+Their mood is the mood of that gentleman who despaired and wrote:
+</p>
+
+<p class="ind">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;A cloud's a lot of vapour,<br>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;The sky's a lot of air,<br>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;And the sea's a lot of water<br>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;That happens to be there.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You cannot get further down than that. When you have got as far down as
+that all is over. Luckily God still keeps his mysteries going for you,
+and you can't get rid, even in that mood, of the certitude that you
+yourself exist and that things outside of you are outside of you. But
+when you get into that modern mood you do lose the personality of
+everything else, and you forget the sanctity of river heads.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You have lost a great deal when you have forgotten that, and it behoves
+you to recover what you have lost as quickly as possible, which is to be
+done in this way: Visit the source of some famous stream and think about
+it. There was a Scotchman once who discovered the sources of the Nile,
+to the lasting advantage of mankind and the permanent glory of his
+native land. He thought the source of the Nile looked rather like the
+sources of the Till or the Tweed or some such river of Thule. He has
+been ridiculed for saying this, but he was mystically very right. The
+source of the greatest of rivers, since it was sacred to him, reminded
+him of the sacred things of his home.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When I consider the sources of rivers which I have seen, there is not
+one, I think, which I do not remember to have had about it an influence
+of awe. Not only because one could in imaginings see the kingdoms of the
+cities which it was to visit and the way in which it would bind them all
+together in one province and one story, but also simply because it was
+an origin.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sources of the Rhone are famous: the Rhone comes out of a glacier
+through a sort of ice cave, and if it were not for an enormous hotel
+quite four-square it would be as lonely a place as there is in Europe,
+and as remarkable a beginning for a great river as could anywhere be
+found. Nor, when you come to think of it, does any European river have
+such varied fortunes as the Rhone. It feeds such different religions and
+looks on such diverse landscapes. It makes Geneva and it makes Avignon;
+it changes in colour and in the nature of its going as it goes. It sees
+new products appearing continually on its journey until it comes to
+olives, and it flows past the beginning of human cities, when it
+reflects the huddle of old Arles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sources of the Garonne are well known. The Garonne rises by itself
+in a valley from which there is no issue, like the fabled valleys shut
+in by hills on every side. And if it were anything but the Garonne it
+would not be able to escape: it would lie imprisoned there for ever.
+Being the Garonne it tunnels a way for itself right under the High
+Pyrenees and comes out again on the French side. There are some that
+doubt this, but then there are people who would doubt anything.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sources of the River Arun are not so famous as these two last, and
+it is a good thing, for they are to be found in one of the loneliest
+places within an hour of London that any man can imagine, and if you
+were put down there upon a windy day you would think yourself upon the
+moors. There is nothing whatsoever near you at the beginnings of the
+little sacred stream.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thames had a source once which was very famous. The water came out
+plainly at a fountain under a bleak wood just west of the Fosse Way,
+under which it ran by a culvert, a culvert at least as old as the
+Romans. But when about a hundred years ago people began to improve the
+world in those parts, they put up a pumping station and they pumped
+Thames dry--since which time its gods have deserted the river.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The sources of the Ribble are in a lonely place up in a corner of the
+hills where everything has strange shapes and where the rocks make one
+think of trolls. The great frozen Whernside stands up above it, and
+Ingleborough Hill, which is like no other hill in England, but like the
+flat-topped Mesas which you have in America, or (as those who have
+visited it tell me) like the flat hills of South Africa; and a little
+way off on the other side is Pen-y-ghent, or words to that effect. The
+little River Ribble rises under such enormous guardianship. It rises
+quite clean and single in the shape of a little spring upon the
+hillside, and too few people know it. The other river that flows east
+while the Ribble flows west is the River Ayr. It rises in a curious way,
+for it imitates the Garonne, and finding itself blocked by limestone
+burrows underneath at a place called Malham Tarn, after which it has no
+more trouble.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The River Severn, the River Wye, and a third unimportant river, or at
+least important only for its beauty (and who would insist on that?) rise
+all close together on the skirts of Plinlimmon, and the smallest of them
+has the most wonderful rising, for it falls through the gorge of Llygnant,
+which looks like, and perhaps is, the deepest cleft in this island, or, at
+any rate, the most unexpected. And a fourth source on the mountain, a tarn
+below its summit, is the source of Rheidol, which has a short but
+adventurous life like Achilles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There is one source in Europe that is properly dealt with, and where the
+religion due to the sources of rivers has free play, and this is the
+source of the Seine. It comes out upon the northern side of the hills
+which the French call the Hills of Gold, in a country of pasturage and
+forest, very high up above the world and thinly peopled. The River Seine
+appears there in a sort of miraculous manner, pouring out of a grotto,
+and over this grotto the Parisians have built a votive statue; and there
+is yet another of the hundred thousand things that nobody knows.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="error">On Error</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+There is an elusive idea that has floated through the minds of most of
+us as we grew older and learnt more and more things. It is an idea
+extremely difficult to get into set terms. It is an idea very difficult
+to put so that we shall not seem nonsensical; and yet it is a very
+useful idea, and if it could be realized its realization would be of
+very practical value. It is the idea of a Dictionary of Ignorance and
+Error.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+On the face of it a definition of the work is impossible. Strictly
+speaking it would be infinite, for human knowledge, however far
+extended, must always be infinitely small compared with all possible
+knowledge, just as any given finite space is infinitely small compared
+with all space.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But that is not the idea which we entertain when we consider this
+possible Dictionary of Ignorance and Error. What we really mean is a
+Dictionary of the sort of Ignorance and the sort of Error which we know
+ourselves to have been guilty of, which we have escaped by special
+experience or learning as time went on, and against which we would warn
+our fellows.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Flaubert, I think, first put it down in words, and said that such an
+encyclopaedia was very urgently needed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It will never exist, but we all know that it ought to exist. Bits of it
+appear from time to time piecemeal and here and there, as for instance
+in the annotations which modern scholarship attaches to the great text,
+in the printed criticisms to which sundry accepted doctrines are
+subjected by the younger men to-day, in the detailed restatement of
+historical events which we get from modern research as our fathers could
+never have them--but the work itself, the complete Encyclopaedia or
+Dictionary of Ignorance and Error, will never be printed. It is a great
+pity.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Incidentally one may remark that the process by which a particular error
+is propagated is as interesting to watch as the way in which a plant
+grows.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The first step seems to be the establishing of an authority and the
+giving of that authority a name which comes to connote doctrinal
+infallibility. A very good example of this is the title "Science." Mere
+physical research, its achievements, its certitudes, even its
+conflicting and self-contradictory hypotheses, having got lumped
+together in many minds under this one title Science, the title is now
+sacred. It is used as a priestly title, as an immediate estopper to
+doubt or criticism.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The next step is a very interesting one for the student of psychical
+pathology to note. It seems to be a disease as native and universal to
+the human mind as is the decay of the teeth to the human body. It seems
+as though we all must suffer somewhat from it, and most of us suffer a
+great deal from it, though in a cool aspect we easily perceive it to be
+a lesion of thought. And this second step is as follows:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The whole lump having been given its sacred title and erected into an
+infallible authority, which you are to accept as directly superior to
+yourself and all personal sources of information, there is attributed to
+this idol a number of attributes. We give it a soul, and a habit and
+manners which do not attach to its stuff at all. The projection of this
+imagined living character in our authority is comparable to what we also
+do with mountains, statues, towns, and so forth. Our living
+individuality lends individuality to them. I might here digress to
+discuss whether this habit of the mind were not a distorted reflection
+of some truth, and whether, indeed, there be not such beings as demons
+or the souls of things. But, to leave that, we take our authority--this
+thing "Science," for instance--we clothe it with a creed and appetites
+and a will, and all the other human attributes.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This done, we set out in the third step in our progress towards fixed
+error. We make the idol speak. Of course, being only an idol, it talks
+nonsense. But by the previous steps just referred to we must believe
+that nonsense, and believe it we do. Thus it is, I think, that fixed
+error is most generally established.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I have already given one example in the hierarchic title "Science."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was but the other day that I picked up a weekly paper in which a
+gentleman was discussing ghosts--that is, the supposed apparition of the
+living and the dead: of the dead though dead, and of the living though
+absent.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Nothing has been more keenly discussed since the beginning of human
+discussions. Are these phenomena (which undoubtedly happen) what modern
+people call subjective, or are they what modern people call objective?
+In old-fashioned English, Are the ghosts really there or are they not?
+The most elementary use of the human reason persuades us that the matter
+is not susceptible of positive proof. The criterion of certitude in any
+matter of perception is an inner sense in the perceiver that the thing
+he perceives is external to himself. He is the only witness; no one can
+corroborate or dispute him. The seer may be right or he may be wrong,
+but we have no proof--and only according to our temperament, our fancy,
+our experience, our mood, do we decide with one or the other of the two
+great schools.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, the gentleman of whom I am speaking wrote and had printed in plain
+English this phrase (read it carefully):--"Science teaches us that these
+phenomena are purely subjective."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now I am quite sure that of the thousands who read that phrase all but a
+handful read it in the spirit in which one hears the oracle of a god.
+Some read it with regret, some with pleasure, but all with acquiescence.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+That physical science was not competent in the matter one way or the
+other each of those readers would probably have discovered, if even so
+simple a corrective as the use of the term "physical research" instead
+of the sacred term "science" had been applied; the hierarchic title
+"Science" did the trick.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I might take another example out of many hundreds to show what I mean.
+You have an authority which is called, where documents are concerned,
+"The Best Modern Criticism." "The Best Modern Criticism" decides that
+"Tam o' Shanter" was written by a committee of permanent officials of
+the Board of Trade, or that Napoleon Bonaparte never existed. As a
+matter of fact, the tomfoolery does not usually venture upon ground so
+near home, but it talks rubbish just as monstrous about a poem a few
+hundred or a few thousand years old, or a great personality a few
+hundred or a few thousand years old.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now if you will look at that phrase "The Best Modern Criticism" you will
+see at once that it simply teems with assumption and tautology. But it
+does more and worse: it presupposes that an infallible authority must of
+its own nature be perpetually wrong.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Even supposing that I have the most "modern" (that is, merely the
+latest) criticism to hand, and even supposing that by some omniscience
+of mine I can tell which is "the best" (that is, which part of it has
+really proved most ample, most painstaking, most general, and most
+sincere), even then the phrase fatally condemns me. It is to say that
+Wednesday is always infallible as compared with Tuesday, and Thursday as
+compared with Wednesday, which is absurd.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The B.M.C. tells me in 1875 that the Song of Roland could have no
+origins anterior to the year 1030. But the B.M.C. of 1885 (being a
+B.M.C. and nothing more valuable) has a changed opinion. It must change
+its opinion, that is the law of its being, since an integral factor in
+its value is its modernity. In 1885 B.M.C. tells me that the Song of
+Roland can be traced to origins far earlier, let us say to 912.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In 1895 B.M.C. has come to other conclusions--the Song of Roland is
+certainly as late as 1115 ... and so forth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now you would say that an idol of that absurdity could have no effect
+upon sane men. Change the terms and give it another name, and you would
+laugh at the idea of its having an effect upon any men. But we know as a
+matter of fact that it commands the thoughts of nearly all men to-day
+and makes cowards of the most learned.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Perhaps you will ask me at the end of so long a criticism in what way
+error may be corrected, since there is this sort of tendency in us to
+accept it, to which I answer that things correct it, or as the
+philosophers call things, "Reality." Error does not wash.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To go back to that example of ghosts. If ever you see a ghost (my poor
+reader), I shall ask you afterwards whether he seemed subjective or no.
+I think you will find the word "subjective" an astonishingly thin
+one--if, at least, I catch you early after the experience.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="great">The Great Sight</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+All night we had slept on straw in a high barn. The wood of its beams
+was very old, and the tiles upon the roof were green with age; but there
+hung from beam to beam, fantastically, a wire caught by nails, and here
+and there from this wire hung an electric-light bulb. It was a symbol of
+the time, and the place, and the people. There was no local by-law to
+forbid such a thing, or if there was, no one dreamt of obeying it.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Just in the first dawn of that September day we went out, my companion
+and I, at guesswork to hunt in the most amusing kind of hunting, which
+is the hunting of an army. The lane led through one of those lovely
+ravines of Picardy which travellers never know (for they only see the
+plains), and in a little while we thought it wise to strike up the steep
+bank from the valley on to the bare plateau above, but it was all at
+random and all guesswork, only we wisely thought that we were nearing
+the beginning of things, and that on the bare fields of the high flat we
+should have a greater horizon and a better chance of catching any
+indications of men or arms.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When we had reached the height the sun had long risen, but it as yet
+gave no shining and there were no shadows, for a delicate mist hung all
+about the landscape, though immediately above us the sky was faintly
+blue.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was the weirdest of sensations to go for mile after mile over that
+vast plain, to know that it was cut in regular series by parallel
+ravines which in all that extended view we could not guess at; to see up
+to the limits of the plateau the spires of villages and the groups of
+trees about them, and to know that somewhere in all this there lay
+concealed a <i>corps d'arme</i>--and not to see or hear a soul. The
+only human being that we saw was a man driving a heavy farm cart very
+slowly up a side-way just as we came into the great road which has shot
+dead across this country in one line ever since the Romans built it. As
+we went along that road, leaving the fields, we passed by many men
+indeed, and many houses, all in movement with the early morning; and the
+chalked numbers on the doors, and here and there an empty tin of
+polishing-paste or an order scrawled on paper and tacked to a wall
+betrayed the passage of soldiers. But of the army there was nothing at
+all. Scouting on foot (for that was what it was) is a desperate
+business, and that especially if you have nothing to tell you whether
+you will get in touch in five, or ten, or twenty miles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was nine o'clock before a clatter of horse-hoofs came up the road
+behind us. At first my companion and I wondered whether it were the
+first riders of the Dragoons or Cuirassiers. In that case the advance
+was from behind us. But very soon, as the sound grew clearer, we heard
+how few they were, and then there came into view, trotting rapidly, a
+small escort and two officers with the umpires' badges, so there was
+nothing doing; but when, half a mile ahead of us on the road, they
+turned off to the left over plough, we knew that that was the way we
+must follow too. Before we came to the turning-place, before we left the
+road to take the fields on the left, there came from far off and on our
+right the sound of a gun.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was my companion who heard it first. We strained to hear it again;
+twice we thought we had caught it, and then again twice we doubted. It
+is not so easily recognizable a sound as you might think in those great
+plains cut by islands of high trees and steading walls. The little "75"
+gun lying low makes a different sound altogether at a distance from the
+old piece of "90." At any rate there was here no doubt that there were
+guns to the right and in front of us, and the umpire had gone to the
+left. We were getting towards the thick, and we had only to go straight
+on to find out where the front was.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Just as we had so decided and were still pursuing the high road, there
+came, not half a mile away and again to our right, in a valley below us,
+that curious sound which is like nothing at all unless it be dumping of
+flints out of a cart: rifle fire. It cracked and tore in stretches. Then
+there were little gaps of silence like the gaps in signalling, and then
+it cracked and tore in stretches again; and then, fitfully, one
+individual shot and then another would be heard; and, much further off,
+with little sounds like snaps, the replies began from the hillside
+beyond the stream. So far so good. Here was contact in the valley below
+us, and the guns, some way behind and far off northwards, had opened. So
+we got the hang of it instantly--the front was a sort of a crescent
+lying roughly north and south, and roughly parallel to the great road,
+and the real or feigned mass of the advance was on the extreme left of
+that front. We were in it now, and that anxious and wearing business in
+all hunting, finding, was over; but we had been on foot six mortal hours
+before coming across our luck, and more than half the soldiers' day was
+over. These men had been afoot since three, and certain units on the
+left had already marched over twenty miles.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+After that coming in touch with our business, not only did everything
+become plain, but the numbers we met, and what I have called "the thick
+of things," fed us with interest. We passed half the 38th, going down
+the road singing, to extend the line, and in a large village we came to
+the other half, slouching about in the traditional fashion of the
+Service; they had been waiting for an hour. With them, and lined up all
+along the village street, was one battery, with the drivers dismounted,
+and all that body were at ease. There were men sitting on the doorsteps
+of the houses and men trotting to the canteen-wagon or to the village
+shops to buy food; and there were men reading papers which a pedlar had
+brought round. Mud and dust had splashed them all; upon some there was a
+look of great fatigue; they were of all shapes and sizes, and altogether
+it was the sort of sight you would not see in any other service in the
+world. It was the sort of sight which so disgusted the Emperor Joseph
+when he made his little tour to spy out the land before the
+Revolutionary Wars. It was the sort of sight which made Massenbach
+before Grandpr marvel whether the French forces were soldiers at all,
+and the sort of sight which made Valmy inexplicable to the King of
+Prussia and his staff. It was the sort of sight which eighteen months
+later still convinced Mack in Tournai that the Duke of York's plan was a
+plan "of annihilation." It is a trap for judgment is the French service.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So they lounged about and bought bread, and shifted their packs, and so
+the drivers stood by their horses, and so they all waited and slouched;
+until there came, not a man with a bugle nor anything with the slightest
+savour of drama but a little fellow running along thumping in his loose
+leather leggings, who went up to a Major of Artillery and saluted, and
+immediately afterwards the Major put his hand up, and then down a
+village street, from a point which we could not see came a whistle, and
+the whole of that mass of men began to swarm. The grey-blue coats of the
+line swung round the corner of the village street; they had yet a few
+miles before them. Anything more rapid or less in step it would be
+difficult to conceive. The guns were off at a right angle down the main
+road, making a prodigious clatter, and at the same time appeared two
+parties, one of which it was easy to understand, the other not. They
+were both parties of sappers. The one party had a great roll of wire on
+a drum, and as quick as you could think they were unreeling it, and as
+they unreeled it fastening it to eaves, overhanging branches, and to
+corners of walls, stretching it out forward. It was the field-telephone.
+The other party came along carrying great beams upon their shoulders,
+but what they were to do with these beams we did not know.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We followed the tail of the line down into the valley, and all that
+morning long and past the food time at midday, and so till the sun
+declined in the afternoon, we went with the 38th in its gradual success
+from crest to crest. And still the 38th slouched by companies, and mile
+after mile with checks and halts, and it never seemed to get either less
+or more tired. The men had had twelve hours of it when they came at
+last, and we after them, on to the critical position. They had carried
+(together with all the line to left and to the right of them) a string
+of villages which crowned the crest of a further plateau, and over this
+further plateau they were advancing against the main body of the
+resistance--the other army corps which was set up against ours, to
+simulate an enemy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A railway line ran here across the rolling hedgeless fields, and just at
+the point where my companion and I struck it there was a dip in the land
+and a high embankment which hid the plain beyond; but from that plain
+beyond one heard the separate fire of the advancing line in its
+scattered order. We climbed the embankment, and from its ridge we saw
+over two miles or more of stubble, the little creeping bunches of the
+attack. What was resisting, or where it lay, one could only guess. Some
+hundreds of yards before us to the east, with the sloping sun full on
+it, a line of thicket, one scattered wood and then another, an
+imperceptible lifting of the earth here and there marked the opposing
+firing line. Two pompoms could be spotted exactly, for the flashes were
+clear through the underwood. And still the tide of the advance continued
+to flow, and the little groups came up and fed it, one after another and
+another, in the centre where we were, and far away to the north and
+right away to the south the countryside was alive with it. The action
+was beginning to take on something of that final movement and decision
+which makes the climax of manoeuvres look so great a game. But in a
+little while that general creeping forward was checked: there were
+orders coming from the umpires, and a sort of lull fell over each
+position held. My companion said to me:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Let us go forward now over the intervening zone and in among Picquart's
+men, and get well behind their line, and see whether there is a rally or
+whether before the end of this day they begin to fall back again."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+So we did, walking a mile or so until we had long passed their outposts
+and were behind their forward lines. And standing there, upon a little
+eminence near a wood, we turned and looked over what we had come,
+westward towards the sun which was now not far from its setting. Then it
+was that we saw the last of the Great Sight.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The level light, mellow and already reddening, illumined all that plain
+strangely, and with the absolute stillness of the air contrasted the
+opening of the guns which had been brought up to support the renewal of
+the attack. We saw the isolated woods standing up like islands with low
+steep cliffs, dotted in a sea of stubble for miles and miles, and first
+from the cover of one and then from another the advance perpetually,
+piercing and deploying. As we so watched there buzzed high above us,
+like a great hornet, a biplane, circling well within our lines, beyond
+attack from the advance, but overlooking all they concealed behind it.
+In a few minutes a great Bleriot monoplane like a hawk followed, yet
+further inwards. The two great birds shot round in an arc, parallel to
+the firing line, and well behind it, and in a few minutes, that seemed
+seconds, they were dots to the south and then lost in the air. And
+perpetually, as the sun declined, Picquart's men were falling back north
+and south of us and before us, and the advance continued. Group by group
+we saw it piercing this hedge, that woodland, now occupying a nearer and
+a nearer roll of land. It was the greatest thing imaginable: this
+enormous sweep of men, the dead silence of the air, and the
+comparatively slight contrast of the ceaseless pattering rifle fire and
+the slight intermittent accompaniment of the advancing batteries; until
+the sun set and all this human business slackened. Then for the first
+time one heard bugles, which were a command to cease the game.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I would not have missed that day nor lose the memories of it for
+anything in the world.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="declines">The Decline of a State</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+The decline of a State is not equivalent to a mortal sickness therein.
+States are organisms subject to diseases and to decay as are the
+organisms of men's bodies; but they are not subject to a rhythmic rise
+and fall as is the body of a man. A State in its decline is never a
+State doomed or a State dying. States perish slowly or by violence, but
+never without remedy and rarely without violence.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The decline of a State differs with the texture of it. A democratic
+State will decline from a lowering of its potential, that is of its
+ever-ready energy to act in a crisis, to correct and to control its
+servants in common times, to watch them narrowly and suspect them at all
+times. A despotic State will decline when the despot is not in point of
+fact the true depository of despotic power, but some other acting in his
+name, of whom the people know little and cannot judge; or when the
+despot, though fully in view and recognized, lacks will; or when (which
+is rare) he is so inhuman as to miss the general sense of his subjects.
+An oligarchic State, or aristocracy as it is called, will decline
+principally through two agencies which are, first, illusion, and
+secondly, lack of civic aptitude. For an oligarchic State tends very
+readily to illusion, being conducted by men who live at leisure, satisfy
+their passions, are immune from the laws, and prefer to shield
+themselves from reality. Their capacity or appetite for illusion will
+rapidly pervade those below them, for in an aristocracy the rulers are
+subjected to a sort of worship from the rest of the community, and thus
+it comes about that aristocracies in their decline accept fantastic
+histories of their own past, conceive victory possible without armies,
+wealth to be an indication of ability, and national security to be a
+natural gift rather than a product of the will. Such communities further
+fail from the lack of civic aptitude, as was said above, which means
+that they deliberately elect to leave the mass of citizens incompetent
+and irresponsible for generations, so that, when any more strain is upon
+them, they look at once for some men other than themselves to relieve
+them, and are incapable of corporate action upon their own account.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The decline of a State differs also according to whether it be a great
+State or a small one, for in the first indifference, in the latter
+faction, are a peril, and in the first ignorance, in the latter private
+spite.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then again, the decline of a State will differ according to whether its
+strength is rooted originally in commerce, in arms, or in production;
+and if in production, then whether in the production of the artisan or
+in that of the peasant. If arms be the basis of the State, then that the
+army should become professional and apart is a symptom of decline and a
+cause of it; if commerce, the substitution of hazards and imaginaries
+for the transport of real goods and the search after real demand; if
+production, the discontent or apathy of the producer; as with peasants
+an ill system in the taxation of the land or in the things necessary for
+its tillage, such as a misgovernment of its irrigation in a dry country;
+the permission of private exactions and tolls in a fertile one; the
+toleration of thieves and forestallers, and so forth. Artisans, upon the
+other hand, may well flourish, though the State be corrupt in such
+matters, but they must be secured in a high wage and be given a vast
+liberty of protest, for if they sink to be slaves in fact, they will
+from the nature of their toil grow both weak and foolish. Yet is not the
+State endangered by the artisan's throwing off a refuse of ill-paid and
+starving men who are either too many for the work or unskilful at it?
+Such an excretion would poison a peasantry, remaining in their body as
+it were, but artisans are purged thereby. This refuse it is for the
+State to decide upon. It may in an artisan State be used for soldiery
+(since such States commonly maintain but small armies and are commonly
+indifferent to military glory), or it may be set to useful labour, or
+again, destroyed; but this last use is repugnant to humanity, and so in
+the long run hurtful to the State.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the decline of a State, of whatever nature that State be, two vices
+will immediately appear and grow: these are Avarice and Fear; and men
+will more readily accept the imputation of Avarice than of Fear, for
+Avarice is the less despicable of the two--yet in fact Fear will be by
+far the strongest passion of the time.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Avarice will show itself not indeed in a mere greed of gain (for this is
+common to all societies whether flourishing or failing), but rather in a
+sort of taking for granted and permeation of the mere love of money, so
+that history will be explained by it, wars judged by their booty or
+begun in order to enrich a few, love between men and women wholly
+subordinated to it, especially among the rich: wealth made a test for
+responsibility and great salaries invented and paid to those who serve
+the State. This vice will also be apparent in the easy acquaintance of
+all who are possessed of wealth and their segregation from the less
+fortunate, for avarice cleaves society flatways, keeping the scum of it
+quite clear of the middle, the middle of it quite clear of the dregs,
+and so forth. It is a further mark of avarice in its last stages that
+the rich are surrounded with lies in which they themselves believe.
+Thus, in the last phase, there are no parasites but only friends, no
+gifts but only loans, which are more esteemed favours than gifts once
+were. No one vicious but only tedious, and no one a poltroon but only
+slack.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Of Fear in the decline of a State it may be said that it is so much the
+master passion of such decline as to eat up all others. Coming by travel
+from a healthy State to one diseased, Fear is the first point you take.
+Men dare not print or say what they feel of the judges, the public
+governors, the action of the police, the controllers of fortunes and of
+news. This Fear will have about it something comic, providing infinite
+joy to the foreigner, and modifying with laughter the lament of the
+patriot. A miserable hack that never had a will of his own, but ran to
+do what he was told for twenty years at the bidding of his masters,
+being raised to the Bench will be praised for an impartial virtue more
+than human. A drunken fellow, the son of a drunkard, having stolen
+control over some half-dozen sheets, must be named under the breath or
+not at all. A powerful minister may be accused with sturdy courage of
+something which he did not do and no one would mind his doing, but under
+the influence of Fear, to tell the least little truth about him will put
+a whole assembly into a sort of blankness.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This vice has for its most laughable effect the raising of a whole host
+of phantoms, and when a State is so far gone that civic Fear is quite
+normal to the citizens, then you will find them blenching with terror at
+a piece of print, a whispered accusation. Bankruptcy, though they be
+possessed of nothing, and even the ill-will of women. Moneylenders under
+this influence have the greatest power, next after them, blackmailers of
+all kinds, and next after these eccentrics who may blurt or break out.
+Those who have least power in the decline of a State, are priests,
+soldiers, the mothers of many children, the lovers of one woman, and
+saints.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="past">On Past Greatness</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+There lies in the North-East of France, close against the Belgian
+frontier and within cannon shot of the famous battlefield of Malplaquet,
+a little town called Bavai--I have written of it elsewhere.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Coming into this little town you seem to be entering no more than a
+decent, unimportant market borough, a larger village meant for country
+folk, perhaps without a history and certainly without fame.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As you come to look about you one thing after another enlivens your
+curiosity and suggests something at once enormous and remote in the
+destinies of the place.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the first place, seven great roads go out like the seven rays of a
+star, plumb straight, darting along the line, across the vast, bare
+fields of Flanders, past and along the many isolated woods of the
+provinces, and making to great capitals far off--to Cologne, to Paris,
+to Treves, and to the ports of the sea.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+These roads are deserted in great part. Some of them are metalled in
+certain sections, and again in other sections are no more than lanes,
+and again no more than footpaths, as you proceed along their miles of
+way; but their exact design awfully impresses the mind. You know, as you
+follow such strict alignment, that you are fulfilling the majestic
+purpose of Imperial Rome. It was the Romans that made these things.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then, intrigued and excited by such remains of greatness, you read what
+you can of the place.... And you find nothing but a dust of legend. You
+find a story that once here a king, filled with ambition and worshipping
+strange gods, thrust out these great roads to the ends of the earth;
+desired his capital to be a hub and navel for the world. He put them
+under the protection of the seven planets and of the deities of those
+stars. Three he paved with black marble and four with white marble, and
+where they met upon the market place he put up a golden terminal. There
+the legend ends.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is only legend--a true product of the Dark Ages, when all that Rome
+had done rose like a huge dream in the mind of Europe and took on
+gorgeous and fantastic colouring. You learn (for the rest) very
+little--that ornaments and money have been found dating from two
+thousand years, that once great walls surrounded the place. It must have
+had noble buildings and solemn courts. In strict history all you will
+discover is that it was the capital of that tribe, the Nervii, against
+whom Caesar fought, and whose territory was early conquered for the
+Empire. You will find nothing more. There is no living tradition, there
+is no voice; the little town is dumb.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The place is a figure, and a striking one, of greatness long dead, and a
+man visiting its small domestic interests to-day, and noting its
+comfort, its humility, and its sleep, is reminded of many things
+attaching to human fame. It would seem as though the ambitions of men,
+and that exalted appetite for glory which has produced the chief things
+of this world, suffer the effect of time somewhat as the body of an
+animal slain will suffer that.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One part of the organism and then another decays and mixes back with
+nature. The effect of will has vanished. The thing is a prey to all that
+environment which, once alive, it combated, conquered, and transformed
+to its own use. One portion after another is lost, until at last only
+the most resisting stands--the skeleton and hard framework, the least
+expressive, the least personal part of the whole. This also decays and
+perishes. Then there remains no more but a score of hardened fragments
+that linger in their place, and what has passed away is fortunate if
+even the slightest or most fantastic legend of itself survives.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The great dead are first forgotten in their physical habit; we lose the
+nature of their voices, we forget their sympathies and their affections.
+Bit by bit all that they intended to be eternal slips back into the
+common thing around. A blurred image, growing fainter and fainter,
+lingers. At last the person vanishes, and in its place some public
+raising material things--a monument, a tomb, an ornament, or weapon of
+enduring metal--is all that remains.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If it were possible for the spring of appetite and quest to be dried up
+in man, such a spectacle would dry up that spring.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is not possible, for it is providentially in the nature of man to
+cherish these illusions of an immortal memory and of a life bestowed
+upon the shade or the mere name of his living greatness. Those various
+forms of fame which are young men's goals, and to which the eager
+creative power of early manhood so properly directs itself, seem each in
+turn or each for its varying temperament to promise the desired reward;
+and one imagines that his love, another that his discoveries, another
+that his victories in the field or his conspicuous acts of courage will
+remain permanently with his fellows long after he has left their feast.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As though to give some substance to the flattering cheat, there is one
+kind of fame which men have been permitted to attain, and which does
+give them a sort of fixed tenure--if not for ever, yet for generations
+upon generations--in the human city. This sort of fame is the fame of
+the great poets. There is nothing more enduring. It has for some who
+were most blessed outlasted, you may say, all material things which they
+handled or they knew--all fabrics, all instruments, all habitations. It
+is comparable in its endurance to the years, and a man reads the "Song
+of Roland" and can still look on that same unchanged Cleft of
+Roncesvalles, or a man reads the Iliad and can look to-day westward from
+the shores to Tenedos. But wait a moment. Are they indeed blessed in
+this, the great poets? Ronsard debated it. He decided that they were,
+and put into the mouth of the muses the great lines:----
+</p>
+
+<p class="ind">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;Mais un tel accident n'arrive point a l'me,<br>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;Qui sans matire vist immortelle l haut.
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<p class="ind">
+&nbsp;&nbsp;Vela saigement dit, Ceux dont la fantaisie<br>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;Sera religieuse et devote envers Dieu<br>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;Tousjours acheveront quelque grand posie,<br>
+&nbsp;&nbsp;Et dessus leur renom la Parque n'aura lieu.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But the matter is still undecided.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="mr">Mr. The Duke: The Man of Malplaquet</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+On the field of Malplaquet, that battlefield, I met a man.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He was pointed out to me as a man who drove travellers to Bavai. His
+name was Mr. The Duke, and he was very poor.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+If he comes across these lines (which is exceedingly unlikely) I offer
+him my apologies. Anyhow, I can write about him freely, for he is not
+rich, and, what is more, the laws of his country permit the telling of
+the truth about our fellow-men, even when they are rich.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. The Duke was of some years, and his colour was that of cedar wood. I
+met him in his farmyard, and I said to him:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Is it you, sir, that drive travellers to Bavai?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No," said he.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Accustomed by many years of travel to this type of response, I
+continued:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How much do you charge?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Two francs fifty," said he.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I will give you three francs," I said, and when I had said this he
+shook his head and replied:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You fall at an evil moment; I was about to milk the cows." Having said
+this he went to harness the horse.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When the horse was harnessed to his little cart (it was an extremely
+small horse, full of little bones and white in colour, with one eye
+stronger than the other) he gave it to his little daughter to hold, and
+himself sat down to table, proposing a meal.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is but humble fare," he said, "for we are poor."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This sounded familiar to me; I had both read and heard it before. The
+meal was of bread and butter, pasty and beer, for Malplaquet is a
+country of beer and not of wine.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As he sat at table the old man pointed out to me that contraband across
+the Belgian frontier, which is close by, was no longer profitable.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Fraud," he said, "is no longer a living for anyone."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Upon that frontier contraband is called "The Fraud"; it holds an
+honourable place as a career.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The Fraud," he continued, "has gone long ago; it has burst. It is no
+longer to be pursued. There is not even any duty upon apples.... But
+there is a duty upon pears. Had I a son I would not put him into The
+Fraud.... Sometimes there is just a chance here and there.... One can
+pick up an occasion. But take it all in all (and here he wagged his head
+solemnly) there is nothing in it any more."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I said that I had no experience of contraband professionally, but that I
+knew a very honest man who lived by it in the country of Andorra, and
+that according to my morals a man had a perfect right to run the risk
+and take his chance, for there was no contract between him and the power
+he was trying to get round. This announcement pleased the old gentleman,
+but it did not grip his mind. He was of your practical sort. He was
+almost a Pragmatist. Abstractions wearied him. He put no faith in the
+reality of ideas. I think he was a Nominalist like Abelard: and whatever
+excuse you may make for him, Abelard was a Nominalist right enough, for
+it was the intellectual thing to be at the time, though St. Bernard
+utterly confuted him in arguments of enormous length and incalculable
+boredom.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The old man, then, I say, would have nothing to do with first
+principles, and he reasserted his position that, in the concrete, in the
+existent world, The Fraud no longer paid.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This said for the sixth or seventh time, he drank some brandy to put
+heart into him and climbed up into his little cart, I by his side. He
+hit the white horse with a stick, making at the same time an
+extraordinary shrill noise with his mouth, like a siren, and the horse
+began to slop and sludge very dolefully towards Bavai.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"This horse," said Mr. The Duke, "is a wonderfully good horse. He goes
+like the wind. He is of Arab extraction, and comes from Africa."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+With these words he gave the horse another huge blow with his stick, and
+once more emitted his piercing cry. The horse went neither faster nor
+slower than before, and seemed very indifferent to the whole
+performance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"He is from Africa," said Mr. The Duke again, meditatively. "Do you know
+Africa?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Africa with the French populace means Algiers. I answered that I knew
+it, and that in particular I knew the road southward from Constantine.
+At this he looked very pleased, and said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I was a soldier in Africa. I deserted seven times."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To this I made no answer. I did not know how he wanted me to take it, so
+I waited until he should speak again, which he soon did, and said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The last time I deserted I was free for a year and a half. I used to
+conduct beasts; that was my trade. When they caught me I was to have
+been shot. I was saved by the tears of a woman!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Having said this the old man pulled out a very small pipe and filled it
+with exceedingly black tobacco. He lit it, then he began talking again
+rather more excitedly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is a terrible thing and an unhappy thing none the less," he went on,
+"that a man should be taken out to be shot and should be saved by the
+tears of a woman." Then he added, "Of what use are wars? How foolish it
+is that men should kill each other! If there were a war I would not
+fight. Would you?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I said I thought I would; but whether I should like to or not would
+depend upon the war.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He was eager to contradict and to tell me that war was wrong and stupid.
+Having behind him the logical training of fifteen Christian centuries he
+was in no way muddle-headed upon the matter. He saw very well that his
+doctrine meant that it was wrong to have a country, and wrong to love
+it, and that patriotism was all bosh, and that no ideal was worth
+physical pain or trouble. To such conclusions had he come at the end of
+his life.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The white horse meanwhile slouched; Bavai grew somewhat nearer as we sat
+in silence after his last sentence. He was turning many things over in
+his mind. He veered off on to political economy.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"When the rich man at the Manufactory here, the place where they sell
+phosphates for the land, when he stands beer to all the workmen and to
+the countryside, I always say, 'Fools! All this will be put on to the
+cost of the phosphates; they will cost you more!'"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Mr. The Duke did not accept John Stuart Mill's proposition upon the cost
+of production nor the general theories of Ricardo upon which Mill's
+propositions were based. In his opinion rent was a factor in the cost of
+production, for he told me that butter had gone up because the price of
+land was rising near the towns. In what he next said I found out that he
+was not a Collectivist, for he said a man should own enough to live
+upon, but he said that this was impossible if rich people were allowed
+to live. I asked him what the politics of the countryside were and how
+people voted. He said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The politicians trick the people. They are a heap of worthlessness."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I asked him if he voted, and he said "yes." He said there was only one
+way to vote, but I did not understand what this meant.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Had time served I should have asked him further questions--upon the
+nature of the soul, its ultimate fate, the origin of man and his
+destiny, whether mortal or immortal; the proper constitution of the
+State, the choice of the legislator, the prince, and the magistrate; the
+function of art, whether it is subsidiary or primary in human life; the
+family; marriage. Upon the State he had already informed me, and also
+upon the institution of property, and upon his view of armies. Upon all
+those other things he would equally have given me a clear reply, for he
+was a man that knew his own mind, and that is more than most people can
+say.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But we were now in Bavai, and I had no time to discover more. We drank
+together before we parted, and I was very pleased to see the honest look
+in his face. With more leisure and born to greater opportunities he
+would have been talked about, this Man of Malplaquet. He had come to his
+odd conclusions as the funny people do in Scandinavia and in Russia, and
+among the rich intellectuals and usurers in London and Berlin; but he
+was a jollier man than they are, for he could drive a horse and lie
+about it, and he could also milk a cow. As we parted he used a phrase
+that wounded me, and which I had only heard once before in my life. He
+said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We shall never see each other again!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Another man had once said this thing to me before. This man was a farmer
+in the Northumbrian hills, who walked with me a little way in the days
+when I was going over Carter Fell to find the Scots people, many, many
+years ago. He also said: "We shall never meet again!"
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="game">The Game of Cards</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+A youth of no more than twenty-three years entered a first-class
+carriage at the famous station of Swindon in the county of Wiltshire,
+proposing to travel to the uttermost parts of the West and to enjoy a
+comfortable loneliness while he ruminated upon all things human and
+divine; when he was sufficiently annoyed to discover that in the further
+corner of the carriage was sitting an old gentleman of benevolent
+appearance, or at any rate a gentleman of benevolent appearance who
+appeared in his youthful eyes to be old.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For though the old gentleman was, as a fact, but sixty, yet his virile
+beard had long gone white and the fringes of hair attaching to his
+ostrich egg of a head confirmed his venerable appearance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When the train had started the young man proceeded in no very good
+temper and with great solemnity to fill a pipe. He turned to his senior,
+who was watching him in a very paternal and happy manner, and said
+formally:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I hope you do not mind my smoking, sir?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Not at all," said the old boy; "it is a habit I have long grown
+accustomed to in others."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The young man bowed in a somewhat absurd fashion and felt for his
+matches. He discovered to his no small mortification that he had none.
+He was so used to his pipe after a meal that he really could not forgo
+it. He came off his perch by at least three steps and asked the old man
+very gently whether he had any matches.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The older man produced a box and at the same time brought out with it a
+little notebook and a playing card which happened to be in his pocket.
+The young man took the matches and lit his pipe, surveying the old man
+the while with a more complacent eye.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It is very kind of you, sir," he said a little less stiffly. He handed
+back the matches, wrapped his rug round his legs, sat down in his place,
+and knowing that one should prolong the conversation for a moment or two
+after a favour, said: "I see that you play cards."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I do," said the old man simply; "would you like a game?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I don't mind," said the young man, who had always heard that it was
+unmanly and ridiculous to refuse a game of cards in a railway carriage.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The elder man laughed merrily in his strong beard as he saw his junior
+begin to spread somewhat awkwardly a copy of a newspaper upon his knees.
+"I'll show you a trick worth two of that," he said, and taking one of
+the first-class cushions, which alone of railway cushions are movable
+from its place, he came over to the corner opposite the young man and
+made a table of the cushion between them. "Now," said he genially,
+"what's it to be?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well," said the young man like one who expounds new mysteries, "do you
+know piquet?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh, yes," said his companion with another happy little laugh of
+contentment with the world. "I'll take you on. What shall it be?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Pennies if you like," said the young man nonchalantly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Very well, and double for the Rubicon."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How do you mean?" said the young man, puzzled.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You will see," said the old man, and they began to play.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The game was singularly absorbing. At first the young man won a few
+pounds; then he lost rather heavily, then he won again, but not quite
+enough to recoup. Then in the fourth game he won, so that he was a
+little ahead, and meanwhile the old man chatted merrily during the
+discarding or the shuffling: during the shuffling especially. He looked
+out towards the downs with something of a sigh at one moment, and said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It's a happy world."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," answered the younger man with the proper lugubriousness of youth,
+"but it all comes to an end."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It isn't its coming to an end," said the elder man, declaring a point
+of six, "that's not the tragedy; it's the little bits coming to an end
+meanwhile, before the whole comes to an end: that's the tragedy...." But
+he added with another of his jolly laughs: "We must play. Piquet takes
+up all one's grey matter."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+They played and the young man lost again, but by a very narrow margin:
+it was quite an absorbing game. As they shuffled again the young man
+said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What did you mean by the little bits stopping, or whatever it was?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh," said the old man as though he couldn't remember, and then he
+added: "Oh, yes, I mean you'll find, as you grow older, people die and
+affections change, and, though it seems silly to mention it in company
+with higher things, there's what Shelley called the 'contagion of the
+world's slow stain.'"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then their conversation was interrupted by the ardour of the game; but
+as they played the young man was ruminating, and he had come to the
+conclusion that his senior was imperfectly educated and was probably of
+the middle classes, whereas he himself was destined to be a naval
+architect, and with that object had recently left the university for an
+office in the city. The young man thought that a man properly educated
+would never quote a tag: he was wrong there. As he had allowed his
+thoughts to wander somewhat the young man lost that game rather heavily,
+and at the end of it he was altogether about ten shillings to the bad.
+It was his turn to shuffle. The older man was at leisure to speak, and
+did so rather dreamily as he gazed at the landscape again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Things change, you know," he said, "and there is the contagion of the
+world's slow stain. One gets preoccupied: especially about money. When
+men marry they get very much preoccupied upon that point. It's bad for
+them, but it can't be helped."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You cut," said the young man.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+His elder cut and they played again. This time as they played their game
+the old man broke his rule of silence and continued his observations
+interruptedly:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Four kings," he said.... "It isn't that a man gets to think money
+all-important, it is that he has to think of it all the time.... No,
+three queens are no good. I said four kings.... four knaves.... The
+little losses of money don't affect one, but perpetual trouble about it
+does, and" (closing up the majority of tricks which he had just gained)
+"many a man goes on making more year after year and yet feels himself in
+peril.... <i>And</i> the last trick." He took up the cards to shuffle
+them. "Towards the very end of life," he continued, "it gets less, I
+suppose, but you'll feel the burden of it." He put the pack over for the
+younger man to cut. When that was done he dealt them out slowly. As he
+dealt he said: "One feels the loss of little material things: objects to
+which one was attached, a walking-stick, or a ring, or a watch which one
+has carried for years. Your declare."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The young man declared, and that game was played in silence. I regret to
+say that the young man was Rubiconed, and was thirty shillings in the
+elder's debt.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"We'll stop if you like" said the elder man kindly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh, no," said the youth with nonchalance, "I'll pay you now if you
+like."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Not at all, I didn't mean that," said the older man with a sudden prick
+of honour.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh, but I will, and we'll start fair again," said the young man.
+Whereupon he handed over his combined losses in gold, the older man gave
+him change, they shuffled again, and they went on with their play.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"After all," said the older man, musing as he confessed to a point of no
+more than five, "it's all in the day's work.... It's just a day's work,"
+he repeated with a saddened look in his eyes, "it's a game that one
+plays like this game, and then when it's over it's over. It's the little
+losses that count."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+That game again was unfortunate for the young man, and he had to shell
+out fifteen and six. But the brakes were applied, Bristol was reached,
+the train came to a standstill, and the young man, looking up a little
+confused and hurried, said: "Hello, Bristol! I get out here."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"So do I," said the older man. They both stood up together, and the jolt
+of the train as it stopped dead threw them into each other's arms.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I am really very sorry," said the youth.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It's my fault," said the old chap like a good fellow, "I ought to have
+caught hold. You get out and I'll hand you your bag."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"It's very kind of you," said the young man. He was really flattered by
+so much attention, but he knew himself what a good companion he was and
+he could understand it; besides which they had made friends during that
+little journey. He always liked a man to whom he had lost some money in
+an honest game.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+There was a heavy crowd upon the platform, and two men barging up out of
+it saluted the old man boisterously by the name of Jack. He twinkled at
+them with his eyes as he began moving the luggage about, and stood for a
+moment in the doorway with his own bag in his right hand and the young
+man's bag in his left. The young man so saw it for an instant, a fine
+upstanding figure--he saw his bag handed by some mistake to the second
+of the old man's friends, a porter came by at the moment pushing through
+the crowd with a trolley, an old lady made a scene, the porter
+apologized, the crowd took sides, some for the porter, some for the old
+lady; the young man, with the deference of his age, politely asked
+several people to make way, but when he had emerged from the struggle
+his companion, his companion's friends, and his own bag could not be
+found; or at any rate he could not make out where they were in the great
+mass that pushed and surged upon the platform.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He made himself a little conspicuous by asking too many questions and by
+losing his temper twice with people who had done him no harm, when, just
+as his excitement was growing more than querulous, a very heavy,
+stupid-looking man in regulation boots tapped him on the shoulder and
+said: "Follow me." He was prepared with an oath by way of reply, but
+another gentleman of equal weight, wearing boots of the same pattern,
+linked his arm in his and between them they marched him away, to a
+little private closet opening out of the stationmaster's room.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Now, sir," said he who had first tapped him on the shoulder, "be good
+enough to explain your movements."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I don't know what you mean," said the young man.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You were in the company," said the older man severely, "of an old man,
+bald, with a white beard and a blue sailor suit. He had come from
+London; you joined him at Swindon. We have evidence that he was to be
+met at this station and it will be to your advantage if you make a clean
+breast of it."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The young man was violent and he was borne away.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But he had friends at Bristol. He gave his references and he was
+released. To this day he believes that he suffered not from folly, but
+from injustice. He did not see his bag again, but after all it contained
+no more than his evening clothes, for which he had paid or rather owed
+six guineas, four shirts, as many collars and dress ties, a
+silver-mounted set of brushes and combs, and useless cut-glass bottles,
+a patented razor, a stick of shaving soap, and two very, very
+confidential letters which he treasured. His watch, of course, was gone,
+but not, I am glad to say, his chain, which hung dangling, though in his
+flurry he had not noticed it. It made him look a trifle ridiculous. As
+he wore no tie-pin he had not lost that, and beyond his temper he had
+indeed lost nothing further save, possibly, a textbook upon
+Thermodynamics. This book he <i>thought</i> he remembered having put
+into the bag, and if he had it belonged to his library, but he could not
+quite remember this point, and when the Library claimed it he stoutly
+disputed their claim.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In this dispute he was successful, but it was the only profit he made
+out of that journey, unless we are to count his experience, and
+experience, as all the world knows, is a thing that men must buy.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="king">"King Lear"</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+The great unity which was built up two thousand years ago and was
+called Christendom in its final development split and broke in pieces.
+The various civilizations of its various provinces drifted apart, and it
+will be for the future historian to say at what moment the isolation of
+each from all was farthest pushed. It is certain that that point is
+passed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In the task of reuniting what was broken--it is the noblest work a
+modern man can do--the very first mechanical act must be to explain one
+national soul to another. That act is not final. The nations of Europe,
+now so divided, still have more in common than those things by which
+they differ, and it is certain that when they have at last revealed to
+them their common origin they will return to it. They will return to it,
+perhaps, under the pressure of war waged by some not Christian
+civilization, but they will return. In the meanwhile, of those acts not
+final, yet of immediate necessity in the task of establishing unity, is
+the act of introducing one national soul to another.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now this is best accomplished in a certain way which I will describe.
+You will take that part in the letters of a nation which you maturely
+judge most or best to reflect the full national soul, with its
+qualities, careless of whether these be great or little; you will take
+such a work as reproduces for you as you read it, not only in its
+sentiment, but in its very rhythm, the stuff and colour of the nation;
+this you will present to the foreigner, who cannot understand. His
+efforts must be laborious, very often unfruitful, but where it is
+fruitful it will be of a decisive effect.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus let anyone take some one of the immortal things that Racine wrote
+and show them to an Englishman. He will hardly ever be able to make
+anything of it at first. Here and there some violently emotional passage
+may faintly touch him, but the mass of the verse will seem to him dead.
+Now, if by constant reading, by association with those who know what
+Racine is, he at last sees him--and these changes in the mind come very
+suddenly--he will see into the soul of Gaul. For the converse task,
+to-day not equally difficult but once almost impossible, of presenting
+England to the French intelligence--or, indeed, to any other alien
+intelligence--you may choose the play "King Lear."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+That play has every quality which does reflect the soul of the community
+in which and for which it was written. Note a few in their order.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+First, it is not designed to its end; at least it is not designed
+accurately to its end; it is written as a play and it is meant to be
+acted as a play, and it is the uniform opinion of those versed in plays
+and in acting that in its full form it could hardly be presented, while
+in any form it is the hardest even of Shakespeare's plays to perform.
+Here you have a parallel with a thousand mighty English things to which
+you can turn. Is there not institution after institution to decide on,
+so lacking a complete fitness to its end, larger in a way than the end
+it is to serve, and having, as it were, a life of its own which proceeds
+apart from its effect? This quality which makes so many English things
+growths rather than instruments is most evident in the great play.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Again, it has that quality which Voltaire noted, which he thought
+abnormal in Shakespeare, but which is the most national characteristic
+in him, that a sort of formlessness, if it mars the framework of the
+thing and spoils it, yet also permits the exercise of an immeasurable
+vitality. When a man has read "King Lear" and lays down the book he is
+like one who has been out in one of those empty English uplands in a
+storm by night. It is written as though the pen bred thoughts. It is
+possible to conjecture as one reads, and especially in the diatribes,
+that the pen itself was rapid and the brain too rapid for the pen. One
+feels the rush of the air. Now, this quality is to be discovered in the
+literature of many nations, but never with the fullness which it has in
+the literature of England. And note that in those phases of the national
+life when foreign models have constrained this instinct of expansion in
+English verse, they never have restrained it for long, and that even
+through the bonds established by those models the instinct of expansion
+breaks. You see it in the exuberance of Dryden and in the occasional
+running rhetoric of Pope, until it utterly loosens itself with the end
+of the eighteenth century.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The play is national, again, in that permanent curiosity upon knowable
+things--nay, that mysterious half-knowledge of unknowable things--which,
+in its last forms, produced the mystic, and which is throughout history
+so plainly characteristic of these Northern Atlantic islands. Every play
+of Shakespeare builds with that material, and no writer, even of the
+English turn, has sent out points further into the region of what is not
+known than Shakespeare has in sudden flashes of phrase. But "King Lear,"
+though it contains a lesser number of lines of this mystical and
+half-religious effect than, say, "Hamlet," yet as a general impression
+is the more mystical of the two plays. The element of madness, which in
+"Hamlet" hangs in the background like a storm-cloud ready to break, in
+"King Lear" rages; and it is the use of this which lends its amazing
+psychical power to the play. It has been said (with no great profundity
+of criticism) that English fiction is chiefly remarkable for its power
+of particularization of character, and that where French work, for
+instance, will present ideas, English will present persons. The judgment
+is grossly insufficient, and therefore false, but it is based upon a
+proof which is very salient in English letters, which is that, say, in
+quite short and modern work the sense of complete unity deadens the
+English mind. The same nerve which revolts at a straight road and at a
+code of law revolts against one tone of thought, and the sharp contrast
+of emotional character, not the dual contrast which is common to all
+literatures, but the multiple contrast, runs through "King Lear" and
+gives the work such a tone that one seems as one reads it to be moving
+in a cloud.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The conclusion is perhaps Shakespearean rather than English, and in a
+fashion escapes from any national labelling. But the note of silence
+which Shakespeare suddenly brings in upon the turmoil, and with which he
+is so fond of completing what he has done, would not be possible were
+not that spirit of expansion and of a kind of literary adventurousness
+present in all that went before.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is indeed this that makes the play so memorable. And it may not be
+fantastic to repeat and expand what has been said above in other words,
+namely, that King Lear has something about him which seems to be a
+product of English landscape and of English weather, and if its general
+movement is a storm its element is one of those sudden silences that
+come sometimes with such magical rapidity after the booming of the wind.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="excursion">The Excursion</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+It is so old a theme that I really hesitate to touch it; and yet it is
+so true and so useful that I will. It is true all the time, and it is
+particularly useful at this season of the year to men in cities: to all
+repetitive men: to the men that read these words. What is more, true as
+it is and useful as it is, no amount of hammering at people seems to get
+this theme into their practice; though it has long ago entered into
+their convictions they will not act upon it in their summers. And this
+true and useful theme is the theme of little freedoms and discoveries,
+the value of getting loose and away by a small trick when you want to
+get your glimpse of Fairyland.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now how does one get loose and away?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When a man says to himself that he must have a holiday he means that he
+must see quite new things that are also old: he desires to open that
+door which stood wide like a window in childhood and is now shut fast.
+But where are the new things that are also the old? Paradoxical fellows
+who deserve drowning tell one that they are at our very doors. Well,
+that is true of the eager mind, but the mind is no longer eager when it
+is in need of a holiday. And you can get at the new things that are also
+the old by way of drugs, but drugs are a poor sort of holiday fabric. If
+you have stored up your memory well with much experience you can get
+these things from your memory--but only in a pale sort of way.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I think the best avenue to recreation by the magical impressions of the
+world upon the mind is this: To go to some place to which the common
+road leads you and then to get just off the common road. You will be
+astonished to find how strange the world becomes in the first mile--and
+how strange it remains till the common road is reached again.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It always sounds like a mockery for a man who has travelled to a great
+many places, as I have, to advise his fellows to travel abroad; they are
+most of them hard tied. Yet it is really a much easier thing than men
+bound to the desk and the workshop understand. Britain is but one great
+port, and its inward seas are narrow--and the fares are ridiculously
+low. If you are a young man you can go almost anywhere for almost
+anything, sitting up by night on deck, and not expecting too much
+courtesy. But, of course, if you shirk the sea you are a prisoner.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Well, then, supposing you abroad, or even in some other part of this
+highly varied kingdom in which you live, and supposing you to have
+reached some chosen place by some common road--what I desire to dilate
+upon here is the truth which every little excursion of business or of
+leisure (and precious few of leisure) makes me more certain of every
+day: That just a little way off the road is fairyland.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was exactly three days ago that I had occasion to go down the railway
+line that is the most frequented in Europe: I was on business, not
+leisure, but in the business I had two days' leisure, and I did what I
+would advise all other men to do in such a circumstance.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I took a train to nowhere, fixing my starting-point thus:--
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I first looked at the map and saw where nearest to me was a
+quadrilateral bare of railways. This formula, to look for a
+quadrilateral bare of railways, is a very useful formula for the man who
+is seeking another world. Then I fixed at random upon one little
+roadside station upon the main line; I determined to get out there and
+to walk aimlessly and westward until I should strike the other side of
+the quadrilateral. I made no plan, not even of the hours of the day.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I came into my roadside station at half-past eight of the long summer
+night, broad daylight that is, but with night advancing. I got out and
+began my westward march. At once there crowded upon me any number of
+unexpected and entertaining things!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The first thing I found was a street which was used by horses as well as
+by men, and yet was made up of broad steps. It was a sort of stair-case
+going up a hill. At the top of it I found a woman leading a child by the
+hand. I asked her the name of the steps. She told me they were called
+"The Steps of St. John."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+A quarter of a mile further down the narrow lane I saw to my
+astonishment an enormous castle, ruined and open to the sky. There are
+many such ruins famous in Europe, but of this one I had never even
+heard. I went lonely under the evening and looked at its main gate and
+saw on it a moulded escutcheon, carved, and the motto in French,
+"Henceforward," which word made me think a great deal, but resolved no
+problem in my mind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I went on again westward as the darkness fell and saw what I had not
+seen before, though my reading had told me of its existence, a long line
+of trees marking a ridge on the horizon, which line was the border of
+that ancient road the Roman soldiers built leading from the west into
+Amiens. "Along that road," thought I, "St. Martin rode before he became
+a monk, and while he was yet a soldier and was serving under Julian the
+Apostate. Along that road he came to the west gate of Amiens and there
+cut his cloak in two and gave the half of it to a beggar."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The memory of St. Martin's deed entertained me for some miles of my way,
+and I remembered how, when I was a child, it had seemed to me ridiculous
+to cut your coat in two whether for a beggar or for anybody else. Not
+that I thought charity ridiculous--God forbid!--but that a coat seemed
+to me a thing you could not cut in two with any profit to the user of
+either half. You might cut it in latitude and turn it into an Eton
+jacket and a kilt, neither of much use to a Gallo-Roman beggar. Or you
+might cut it in meridian and leave but one sleeve: mere folly.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Considering these things, I went on over the rolling plateau. I saw a
+great owl flying before me against the sky, different from the owls of
+home. I saw Jupiter shining above a cloud and Venus shining below one.
+The long light lingered in the north above the English sea. At last I
+came quite unexpectedly upon that delight and plaything of the French: a
+light railway, or steam tram such as that people build in great
+profusion to link up their villages and their streams. The road where I
+came upon it made a level crossing, and there was a hut there, and a
+woman living in it who kept the level crossing and warned the
+passers-by. She told me no more trains, or rather little trams, would
+pass that night, but that three miles further on I should come to a
+place called "The Mills of the Vidame."
+
+Now the name "Vidame" reminded me that a "Vidame" was the lay protector
+of a Cathedral Chapter in feudal times, so the name gave me a renewed
+pleasure.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But it was now near midnight, and when I came to this village I
+remembered how in similar night walks I had sometimes been refused
+lodging. When I got among the few houses all was dark. I found, however,
+in the darkness two young men, each bearing an enormous curled trumpet
+of the kind which the French call <i>cors de chasse</i>, that is,
+hunting horns, so I asked them where the inn was. They took me to it and
+woke up the hostess, who received us with oaths. This she did lest the
+young men with hunting horns should demand a commission. Her heart,
+however, was better than her mouth, and she put me up, but she charged
+me tenpence for my room, counting coffee in the morning, which was, I am
+sure, more than her usual rate.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Next day I took the little steam tram away from the place and went on
+vaguely whither it should please God to take me, until the plateau
+changed and the light railway fell into a charming valley, and, seeing a
+town rooted therein, I got out and paid my fare and visited the town. In
+this town I went to church, as it was early morning (you must excuse the
+foible), and, coming out of church, I had an argument with a working man
+upon the matter of religion, in which argument, as I believe, I was the
+victor. I then went on north out of this town and came into a wood of
+enormous size. It was miles and miles across, and the trees were higher
+than anything I have seen outside of California. It was an enchanted
+wood. The sun shone down through a hundred feet of silence by little
+rounds between the leaves, and there was silence everywhere. In this
+wood I sojourned all day long, making slowly westward, till, in the very
+midst of it, I found a troubled man. He was a man of middle age, short,
+intelligent, fat, and weary. He said to me:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Have you noticed any special mark upon the trees? A white mark of the
+number 90?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No," said I. "Are there any wild boars in this forest?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Yes," he answered, "a few, but not of use. I am looking for trees
+marked in white with the number 90. I have paid a price for them, and I
+cannot find them."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I saluted him and went on my way. At last I came to an open clearing,
+where there was a town, and in the town I found a very delightful inn,
+where they would cook anything one felt inclined for, within reason, and
+charged one very moderately indeed. I have retained its name.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+By this time I was completely lost, and in the heart of Fairyland, when
+suddenly I remembered that everyone that strikes root in Fairyland loses
+something, at the least his love and at the worst his soul, and that it
+is a perilous business to linger there, so I asked them in that hotel
+how they worked it when they wanted to go west into the great towns.
+They put me into an omnibus, which charged me fourpence for a journey of
+some two miles. It took me, as Heaven ordained, to a common great
+railway, and that common great railway took me through the night to the
+town of Dieppe, which I have known since I could speak and before, and
+which was about as much of Fairyland to me as Piccadilly or Monday
+morning.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Thus ended those two days, in which I had touched again the unknown
+places--and all that heaven was but two days, and cost me not fifty
+shillings.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Excuse the folly of this.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="tide">The Tide</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+I wish I had been one of those men who first sailed beyond the Pillars
+of Hercules and first saw, as they edged northward along a barbarian
+shore, the slow swinging of the sea. How much, I wonder, did they think
+themselves enlarged? How much did they know that all the civilization
+behind them, the very ancient world of the Mediterranean, was something
+protected and enclosed from which they had escaped into an outer world?
+And how much did they feel that here they were now physically caught by
+the moving tides that bore them in the whole movement of things?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For the tide is of that kind; and the movement of the sea four times
+daily back and forth is a consequence, a reflection, and a part of the
+ceaseless pulse and rhythm which animates all things made and which
+links what seems not living to what certainly lives and feels and has
+power over all movement of its own. The circuits of the planets stretch
+and then recede. Their ellipses elongate and flatten again to the
+semblance of circles. The Poles slowly nod once every many thousand
+years, there is a libration to the moon; and in all this vast harmonious
+process of come and go the units of it twirl and spin, and, as they
+spin, run more gravely in ordered procession round their central star:
+that star moves also to a beat, and all the stars of heaven move each in
+times of its own as well, and their movement is one thing altogether.
+Whoever should receive the mighty business moving in one ear would get
+the music of it in a perfect series of chords, superimposed the one upon
+the other, but not a tremble of them out of tune.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The great scheme is not infinite, for were it infinite such rhythms
+could not be. It was made, and it moves in order to the scheme of its
+making without caprice, not wayward anywhere, but in and out and back
+and forth as to a figure set for it. It must be so, or these exact
+arrangements could not be.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now with this regulated breathing and expiration, playing itself out in
+a million ways and co-extensive with the universe of things, the tides
+keep time, and they alone of earthly things bring its actual force to
+our physical perception, to our daily life. We see the sea in movement
+and power before us heaving up whatever it may bear, and we feel in an
+immediate way its strong backward sagging when the rocks appear above it
+as it falls. We have our hand on the throb of the current turning in a
+salting river inland between green hills; we are borne upon it bodily as
+we sail, its movement kicks the tiller in our grasp, and the strength
+beneath us and around us, the rush and the compulsion of the stream, its
+silence and as it were its purpose, all represent to us, immediately and
+here, that immeasurable to and fro which rules the skies.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+When the Roman soldiers came marching northward with Caesar and first
+saw the shores of ocean: when, after that occupation of Gaul which has
+changed the world, they first mounted guard upon the quays of the Itian
+port under Gris-Nez, or the rocky inlets of the Veneti by St. Malo and
+the Breton reefs, they were appalled to see what for centuries chance
+traders and the few curious travellers, the men of Marseilles and of the
+islands, had seen before them. They saw in numbers and in a corporate
+way what hitherto individuals alone had seen; they saw the sea like a
+living thing, advancing and retreating in an ordered dance, alive with
+deep sighs and intakes, and ceaselessly proceeding about a work and a
+doing which seemed to be the very visible action of an unchanging will
+still pleased with calculated change. It was the presence of the Roman
+army upon the shores of the Channel which brought the Tide into the
+general conscience of Europe, and that experience, I think, was among
+the greatest, perhaps the greatest, of those new things which rushed
+upon the mind of the Empire when it launched itself by the occupation of
+Gaul.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The tide, when it is mentioned in brief historical records of times long
+since, suddenly strikes one with vividness and with familiarity, so that
+the past is introduced at once, presented to us physically, and obtruded
+against our modern senses alive. I know of no other physical thing
+mentioned in this fashion, in chronicle or biography, which has so
+powerful an effect to restore the reality of a dead century.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The Venerable Bede is speaking in one place of Southampton Water, in his
+ecclesiastical history, or, rather, of the Isle of Wight, whence those
+two Princes were baptized and died under Cadwalla. As the historian
+speaks of the place he says:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"In this sea" (which is the Solent) "comes a double tide out of the seas
+which spring from the infinite ocean of the Arctic surrounding all
+Britain."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And he tells us how these double tides rush together and fight together,
+sweeping as they do round either side of the island by the Needles and
+by Spithead into the land-locked sheet within.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now that passage in Bede's fourth book is more real to me than anything
+in all his chronicle, for in Southampton Water to-day the living thing
+which we still note as we sail is the double tide. You take a falling
+tide at the head of the water, near Southampton Town, and if you are not
+quick with your business it is checked in two hours and you meet a
+strange flood, the second flood, before you have rounded Calshott
+Castle.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then there is a Charter of Newcastle. Or, rather, the inviolable Customs
+of that town, very old, drawn up nearly eight hundred years ago, but
+beginning from far earlier; and in these customs you find written:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"If a plea shall arise between a burgess and a merchant it must be
+determined before the third flowing of the sea"--that is, within three
+tides; a wise provision! For thus the merchant would not miss the last
+tide of the day after the quarrel. How living it is, a phrase of that
+sort coming in the midst of those other phrases!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All the rest, worse luck, has gone. Burgage-tenure, and the economic
+independence of the humble, and the busy, healthy life of men working to
+enrich themselves, not others, and that corporate association which was
+the blood of the Middle Ages, and the power of popular opinion, and, in
+general, freedom. But out of all these things that have perished, the
+tide remains, and in the eighteen clauses of the Customs, the tidal
+clause alone stands fresh and still has meaning. The capital, great
+clinching clause by which men owned their own land within the town has
+gone utterly and altogether. The modern workman on the Tyne would not
+understand you perhaps, to whom in that very place you should say, "Many
+centuries ago the men that came before you here, your fathers, were not
+working precariously at a wage, or paying rent to others, but living
+under their own roofs and working for themselves." There is only one
+passage in the document that all could understand in Newcastle
+to-day--the very few rich who are hardly secure, the myriads of poor who
+are not secure at all--and that passage is the passage which talks of
+the third tide; for even to-day there is some good we have left
+undestroyed and the sea still ebbs and flows.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This little note of the Newcastle men, and of the flowing and the ebbing
+of their sea, is to be found, you say, in the archives of England? Not
+at all! It is to be found in the Acts of the Parliament of Scotland--at
+least, so my book assures me, but why I do not know. Perhaps of the
+times when between Tyne and Tees, men looked northward and of the times
+when they looked southward (for they alternately did one and the other
+during many hundreds of years) those times when they looked northward
+seemed the more natural to them. Anyhow, the reference is to the Acts of
+the Parliament of Scotland, and that is the end of it.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="greatw">On a Great Wind</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+It is an old dispute among men, or rather a dispute as old as mankind,
+whether Will be a cause of things or no; nor is there anything novel in
+those moderns who affirm that Will is nothing to the matter, save their
+ignorant belief that their affirmation is new.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The intelligent process whereby I know that Will not seems but is, and
+can alone be truly and ultimately a cause, is fed with stuff and
+strengthens sacramentally as it were, whenever I meet, and am made the
+companion of, a great wind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is not that this lively creature of God is indeed perfected with a
+soul; this it would be superstition to believe. It has no more a person
+than any other of its material fellows, but in its vagary of way, in the
+largeness of its apparent freedom, in its rush of purpose, it seems to
+mirror the action of mighty spirit. When a great wind comes roaring over
+the eastern flats towards the North Sea, driving over the Fens and the
+Wringland, it is like something of this island that must go out and
+wrestle with the water, or play with it in a game or a battle; and when,
+upon the western shores, the clouds come bowling up from the horizon,
+messengers, outriders, or comrades of a gale, it is something of the sea
+determined to possess the land. The rising and falling of such power,
+its hesitations, its renewed violence, its fatigue and final repose--all
+these are symbols of a mind; but more than all the rest, its exultation!
+It is the shouting and the hurrahing of the wind that suits a man.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Note you, we have not many friends. The older we grow and the better we
+can sift mankind, the fewer friends we count, although man lives by
+friendship. But a great wind is every man's friend, and its strength is
+the strength of good-fellowship; and even doing battle with it is
+something worthy and well chosen. If there is cruelty in the sea, and
+terror in high places, and malice lurking in profound darkness, there is
+no one of these qualities in the wind, but only power. Here is strength
+too full for such negations as cruelty, as malice, or as fear; and that
+strength in a solemn manner proves and tests health in our own souls.
+For with terror (of the sort I mean--terror of the abyss or panic at
+remembered pain, and in general, a losing grip of the succours of the
+mind), and with malice, and with cruelty, and with all the forms of that
+Evil which lies in wait for men, there is the savour of disease. It is
+an error to think of such things as power set up in equality against
+justice and right living. We were not made for them, but rather for
+influences large and soundly poised; we are not subject to them but to
+other powers that can always enliven and relieve. It is health in us, I
+say, to be full of heartiness and of the joy of the world, and of
+whether we have such health our comfort in a great wind is a good test
+indeed. No man spends his day upon the mountains when the wind is out,
+riding against it or pushing forward on foot through the gale, but at
+the end of his day feels that he has had a great host about him. It is
+as though he had experienced armies. The days of high winds are days of
+innumerable sounds, innumerable in variation of tone and of intensity,
+playing upon and awakening innumerable powers in man. And the days of
+high wind are days in which a physical compulsion has been about us and
+we have met pressure and blows, resisted and turned them; it enlivens us
+with the simulacrum of war by which nations live, and in the just
+pursuit of which men in companionship are at their noblest.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is pretended sometimes (less often perhaps now than a dozen years
+ago) that certain ancient pursuits congenial to man will be lost to him
+under his new necessities; thus men sometimes talk foolishly of horses
+being no longer ridden, houses no longer built of wholesome wood and
+stone, but of metal; meat no more roasted, but only baked; and even of
+stomachs grown too weak for wine. There is a fashion of saying these
+things, and much other nastiness. Such talk is (thank God!) mere folly;
+for man will always at last tend to his end, which is happiness, and he
+will remember again to do all those things which serve that end. So it
+is with the uses of the wind, and especially the, using of the wind with
+sails.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+No man has known the wind by any of its names who has not sailed his own
+boat and felt life in the tiller. Then it is that a man has most to do
+with the wind, plays with it, coaxes or refuses it, is wary of it all
+along; yields when he must yield, but comes up and pits himself again
+against its violence; trains it, harnesses it, calls it if it fails him,
+denounces it if it will try to be too strong, and in every manner
+conceivable handles this glorious playmate.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As for those who say that men did but use the wind as an instrument for
+crossing the sea, and that sails were mere machines to them, either they
+have never sailed or they were quite unworthy of sailing. It is not an
+accident that the tall ships of every age of varying fashions so
+arrested human sight and seemed so splendid. The whole of man went into
+their creation, and they expressed him very well; his cunning, and his
+mastery, and his adventurous heart. For the wind is in nothing more
+capitally our friend than in this, that it has been, since men were men,
+their ally in the seeking of the unknown and in their divine thirst for
+travel which, in its several aspects--pilgrimage, conquest, discovery,
+and, in general, enlargement--is one prime way whereby man fills himself
+with being.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I love to think of those Norwegian men who set out eagerly before the
+north-east wind when it came down from their mountains in the month of
+March like a god of great stature to impel them to the West. They pushed
+their Long Keels out upon the rollers, grinding the shingle of the beach
+at the fjord-head. They ran down the calm narrows, they breasted and
+they met the open sea. Then for days and days they drove under this
+master of theirs and high friend, having the wind for a sort of captain,
+and looking always out to the sea line to find what they could find. It
+was the springtime; and men feel the spring upon the sea even more
+surely than they feel it upon the land. They were men whose eyes, pale
+with the foam, watched for a landfall, that unmistakable good sight
+which the wind brings us to, the cloud that does not change and that
+comes after the long emptiness of sea days like a vision after the
+sameness of our common lives. To them the land they so discovered was
+wholly new.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We have no cause to regret the youth of the world, if indeed the world
+were ever young. When we imagine in our cities that the wind no longer
+calls us to such things, it is only our reading that blinds us, and the
+picture of satiety which our reading breeds is wholly false. Any man
+to-day may go out and take his pleasure with the wind upon the high
+seas. He also will make his landfalls to-day, or in a thousand years;
+and the sight is always the same, and the appetite for such discoveries
+is wholly satisfied even though he be only sailing, as I have sailed,
+over seas that he has known from childhood, and come upon an island far
+away, mapped and well known, and visited for the hundredth time.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="letter">The Letter</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+If you ask me why it is now three weeks since I received your letter
+and why it is only today that I answer it, I must tell you the truth
+lest further things I may have to tell you should not be worthy of your
+dignity or of mine. It was because at first I dared not, then later I
+reasoned with myself, and so bred delay, and at last took refuge in more
+delay. I will offer no excuse: I will not tell you that I suffered
+illness, or that some accident of war had taken me away from this old
+house, or that I have but just returned from a journey to my hill and my
+view over the Plain and the great River.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Your messenger I have kept, and I have entertained him well. I looked at
+him a little narrowly at his first coming, thinking perhaps he might be
+a gentleman of yours, but I soon found that he was not such, and that he
+bore no disguise, but was a plain rider of your household. I put him in
+good quarters by the Hunting Stables. He has had nothing to do but to
+await my resolution, which is now at last taken, and which you receive
+in this.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But how shall I begin, or how express to you what not distance but a
+slow and bitter conclusion of the mind has done?
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I shall not return to Meudon. I shall not see the woods, the summer
+woods turning to autumn, nor follow the hunt, nor take pleasure again in
+what is still the best of Europe at Versailles. And now that I have said
+it, you must read it so; for I am unalterably determined. Believe me, it
+is something much more deep than courtesy which compels me to give you
+my reasons for this final and irrevocable doom.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We were children together. Though we leant so lightly in our
+conversations of this spring upon all we knew in common, I know your age
+and all your strong early experience--and you know mine. Your mother
+will recall that day's riding when I came back from my first leave and
+you were home, not, I think, for good, from the convent. A fixed
+domestic habit blinded her, so that she could then still see in us no
+more than two children; yet I was proud of my sword, and had it on, and
+you that day were proud of a beauty which could no longer be hidden even
+from yourself; I would then have sacrificed, and would now, all I had or
+was or had or am to have made that beauty immortal.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I say, you remember that day's riding, and how after it the world was
+changed for you and me, and how that same evening the elders saw that it
+was changed.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You will remember that for two years we were not allowed to meet again.
+When the two years were passed we met indeed by a mere accident of that
+rich and tedious life wherein we were both now engaged. I was returned
+from leave before Tournay; you had heard, I think, a false report that I
+had been wounded in the dreadful business at Fontenoy (which to remember
+even now horrifies me a little). I had heard and knew which of the great
+names you now bore by marriage. The next day it was your husband who
+rode with me to Marly. I liked him well enough. I have grown to like him
+better. He is an honest man, though I confess his philosophers weary me.
+When I say "an honest man" I am giving the highest praise I know.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+My dear, that was sixteen years ago.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+You may not even now understand, so engrossing is the toilsome and
+excited ritual of that rich world at Versailles, how blest you are: your
+children are growing round you: your daughters are beginning to reveal
+your own beauty, and your sons will show in these next years immediately
+before us that temper which in you was a spirit and a height of being,
+and in them, men, will show as plain courage. During that long space of
+years your house has remained well ordered (it was your husband's
+doing). His great fortune and yours have jointly increased: if I may
+tell you so, it is a pleasure to all who understand fitness to know that
+this is so, and that your lineage and his will hold so great a place in
+the State.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As you review those sixteen years you may, if you will--I trust you will
+not--recall those occasions when I saw the woods of Meudon and mixed by
+chance with your world, and when we renewed the rides which had ended
+our childhood. As for me I have not to recall those things. They are,
+alas, myself, and beyond them there is nothing that I can call a memory
+or a being at all. Nevertheless, as I have told you, I shall not come to
+Meudon: I shall not hear again the delightful voices of those many
+friends (now in mid-life as am I) who are my equals at Versailles. I
+shall not see your face.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+I did not take service with the Empire from any pique or folly, but from
+a necessity for adventure and for the refounding of my house. It might
+have chanced that I should marry: the land demanded an heir. My
+impoverishment weighed upon me like an ill deed, for all this belt of
+land is dependent upon the old house, which I can with such difficulty
+retain and from which I write to-day. I spent all those years in the
+service of the Empire (and even of Russia) from no uncertain temper and
+from no imaginary quarrel. It is so common or so necessary for men and
+women to misjudge each other that I believe you thought me wayward, or
+at least unstable. If you did so you did me a wrong. Those two good
+seasons when we met again, and this last of but a month ago, were not
+accidents or fitful recoveries. They were all I possessed in my life and
+all that will perish with me when I die.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But now, to tell you the very core of my decision, it is this: The years
+that pass carry with them an increasing weight at once sombre and
+majestic. There are things belonging to youth which habit continues
+strangely longer than the season to which they properly belong: if, when
+we discover them to be too prolonged as cling to their survival, why,
+then, we eat dust. So long as we possess the illusion and so long as the
+dearest things of youth maintain unchanged, in one chamber of our life
+at least, our twentieth year, so long all is well. But there is a cold
+river which we must pass in our advance towards nothingness and age. In
+the passage of that stream we change: and you and I have passed it.
+There is no more endurance in that young mood of ours than in any other
+human thing. One always wakes from it at last. One sees what it is. The
+soul sees and counts with hard eyes the price at which a continuance of
+such high dreams must be purchased, and the heart has a prevision of the
+evil that the happy cheat will work as maturity is reached by each of
+us, and as each of us fully takes on the burden of the world.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Therefore I must not return.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Foolishly and without thinking of real things, acting as though indeed
+that life of dream and of illusion were still possible to me, I
+yesterday cut with great care a rose, one from the many that have now
+grown almost wild upon the great wall overlooking the Danube. Then ... I
+could not but smile to myself when I remembered how by the time that
+rose should have reached you every petal would be wasted and fallen in
+the long week's ride. There is a fixed term of life for roses also as
+for men. I do not cite this to you by way of parable. I have no heart
+for tricks of the pen to-night; but the two images came together, and
+you will understand. If I do not return, it is for the same reason that
+I could not send the rose.
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="regret">The Regret</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+Everybody knows, I suppose, that kind of landscape in which hills seem
+to lie in a regular manner, fold on fold, one range behind the other,
+until, at last, behind them all some higher and grander range dominates
+and frames the whole.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The infinite variety of light and air and accident of soil provide all
+men save those who live in the great plains with examples of this sort.
+The traveller in the dry air of California or of Spain, watching great
+distances from the heights, will recollect such landscapes all his life.
+They were the reward of his long ascents and the visions which attended
+his effort as he climbed up to the ridge of his horizon. Such a
+landscape does a man see from the Western edges of the Guadarrama,
+looking eastward and south toward the very distant hills that guard
+Toledo and the Gulf of the Tagus. Such a landscape does a man see at
+sunrise from the highest of the Cevennes looking right eastward to the
+dawn as it comes up in the pure and cold air beyond the Alps, and shows
+you the falling of the foothills to the Rhone. And by such a landscape
+is a man gladdened when upon the escarpments of the Tuolumne he turns
+back and looks westward over the plain towards the vast range.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The experience of such a sight is one peculiar in travel, or, for that
+matter, if a man is lucky enough to enjoy it at home, insistent and
+reiterated upon the mind of the home-dwelling man. Such a landscape, for
+instance, makes a man praise God if his house is upon the height of
+Mendip, and he can look over falling hills right over the Vale of Severn
+toward the ridge above ridge of the Welsh solemnities beyond, until the
+straight line and high of the Black Mountains ends his view.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is the character of these landscapes to suggest at once a vastness,
+diversity, and seclusion. When a man comes upon them unexpectedly he can
+forget the perpetual toil of men and imagine that those who dwell below
+in the near side before him are exempt from the necessities of this
+world. When such a landscape is part of a man's dwelling-place, though
+he well knows that the painful life of men within those hills is the
+same hard business that it is throughout the world, yet his knowledge is
+modified and comforted by the permanent glory of the thing he sees.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The distant and high range that bounds his view makes a sort of veiling,
+cutting it off and guarding it from whatever may be beyond. The
+succession of lower ranges suggests secluded valleys, and the reiterated
+woods, distant and more distant, convey an impression of fertility more
+powerful than that of corn in harvest upon the lowlands.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Sometimes it is a whole province that is thus grasped by the eye,
+sometimes in the summer haze but a few miles; always this scenery
+inspires the onlooker with a sense of completion and of repose, and at
+the same time, I think, with worship and with awe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Now one such group of valleys there was, hill above hill, forest above
+forest, and beyond it a great noble range, unwooded and high against
+heaven, guarding it, which I for my part knew when first I knew anything
+of this world. There is a high place under fir trees, a place of sand
+and bracken, in South England whence such a view was always present to
+eye in childhood and "There," said I to myself (even in childhood) "a
+man should make his habitation." In those valleys is the proper off-set
+for man.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And so there was.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was a little place which had grown up as my county grows. The house
+throwing out arms and layers. One room was panelled in the oak of the
+seventeenth century--but that had been a novelty in its time, for the
+walls upon which the panels stood were of the late fifteenth, oak and
+brick intermingled. Another room was large and light built in the manner
+of one hundred and fifty years ago, which people call Georgian. It had
+been thrown out south (which is quite against our older custom, for our
+older houses looked east and west to take all the sun and to present a
+corner to the south-west and the storms. So they stand still). It had
+round it a solid cornice which the modern men of the towns would have
+called ugly, but there was ancestry in it. Then, further on this house
+had modern roominess stretching in one new wing after another; and it
+had a great steading and there was a copse and some six acres of land.
+Over a deep ravine looked the little town that was the mother of the
+place, and altogether it was enclosed, silent, and secure.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"The fish that misses the hook regrets the worm." If this is not a
+Chinese proverb it ought to be. That little farm and steading and those
+six acres, that ravine, those trees, that aspect of the little mothering
+town; the wooded hills fold above fold, the noble range beyond, will not
+be mine.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+For all I know, some man quite unacquainted with that land took them
+grumbling for a debt; or again, for all I know, they may have been
+bought by a blind man who could not see the hills, or by some man who,
+seeing them, perpetually regretted the flat marshes of the fens. One
+day, up high on Egdean Side, not thinking of such things, through a gap
+in the trees I saw again after so many years, set one behind the other,
+the forests wave upon wave, the summer heat, the high, bare range
+guarding all, and in the midst of that landscape, set like a toy, the
+little Sabine Farm.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then I said to it, "Continue. Go and serve whom you will, my little
+Sabine Farm. You were not mine because you would not be, and you are not
+mine at all to-day. You will regret it perhaps, and perhaps you will
+not. There was verse in you, perhaps, or prose, or--infinitely
+more!--contentment for a man (for all I know). But you refused. You lost
+your chance. Goodbye." And with that I went on into the wood and beyond
+the gap, and saw the sight no more.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was ten years since I had seen it last. It may be ten years before I
+see it again, or it may be for ever. But as I went through the woods
+saying to myself:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You lost your chance, my little Sabine Farm, you lost your chance!"
+another part of me at once replied:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Ah! And so did <i>you</i>!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then, by way of riposte, I answered in my mind:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Not at all, for the chance I never had, but what I lost was my desire."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"No, not your desire," said the voice to me within, "but the fulfilment
+of it, in which you would have lost your desire." And when that reply
+came I naturally turned as all men do on hearing such interior replies,
+to a general consideration of regret, and was prepared, if any honest
+publisher should have come whistling through that wood, with an offer
+proper to the occasion, namely, to produce no less than five volumes on
+the Nature of Regret, its mortal sting, its bitter-sweetness, its power
+to keep alive in man the pure passions of the soul, its hints at
+immortality, its memory of Heaven. But the wood was empty of publishers.
+The offer did not come. The moment was lost. The five volumes will
+hardly now be written. In place of them I offer poor this, which you may
+take or leave. But I beg leave before I end to cite certain words very
+nobly attached to that great inn "The Griffin," which has its foundation
+set far off in another place, in the town of March, in the Fen Land:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"England my desire, what have you not refused?"
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+</p>
+
+<h3><a name="end">The End Of The World</a></h3>
+
+<p>
+One day I met a man who was sitting quite silent near Whitney, in the
+Thames Valley, in a very large, long, low inn that stands in those
+parts, or at least stood then, for whether it stands now or not depends
+upon the Fussyites, whose business it is to Fuss, and in their Fussing
+to disturb mankind.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+He had nothing to say for himself at all, and he looked not gloomy but
+sad. He was tall and thin, with high cheekbones. His face was the colour
+of leather that has been some time in the weather, and he despised us
+altogether: he would not say a word to us, until one of the company
+said, rising from his meat and drink: "Very well, there's a thing we
+shall never know till the end of the world" (he was talking about some
+discussion or other which the young men had been holding together).
+"There's a thing we shall never know till the end of the world--and
+about that nobody knows!"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"You will pardon me," said the tall, thin, and elderly man with a face
+like leather that has been exposed to the weather, "I know about the End
+of the World, for I have been there."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+This was so interesting that we all sat down again to listen.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I wasn't talking of place, but of time," murmured the young man whom
+the stranger had answered.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I cannot help that," said the stranger decisively; "the End of the
+World is the End of the World, and whether you are talking of space or
+of time it does not matter, for when you have got to the end you have
+got to the end, as may be proved in several ways."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How did you get to it?" said one of our companions.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"That is very simply answered," said the elder man; "you get to it by
+walking straight in front of you."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Anyone could do that," said the other.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Anyone could," said the elder man, "but nobody does. I did.... When I
+was quite a boy in my father's parsonage (for my father was a parson),
+having heard so much about the End of the World and seeing that people's
+descriptions of it differed so much and that everybody was quite sure of
+his own, I used to take my father's friends and guests aside privately,
+for I was afraid to take my father himself, and I used to ask them how
+they knew what the End of the World was really like, and whether they
+had seen it. Some laughed, others were silent, and others were angry;
+but no one gave me any information. At last I decided (and it was very
+wise of me) that the only way to find out a thing of that sort was to
+find it out for one's self, and not to go by hearsay, so I determined to
+go straight on without stopping until I got to the End of the World."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Which way did you walk?" said yet another of my companions.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Young man," said the stranger, with solemnity, "I walked westward
+toward the setting sun ... I walked and I walked and I walked, day after
+day and year after year. Whenever I came to the seacoast I would take
+work on board a ship--and remember it is always easy to get work if you
+will take the wages that are offered, and always difficult to get it if
+you will not. Well, then, I went in this way through all known lands and
+over all known seas, until at last I came to the shore of a sea beyond
+which (so the people told me who lived there) there was no further
+shore. 'I cannot help that,' said I; 'I have not yet come to the End of
+the World, and it is common sense that such a lot of water must have
+something at the back of it to hold it up; besides which there is a
+strong wind blowing out of the gates of the west and from the sunset.
+Now that wind must rise somewhere, and I am going on to see where it
+rises.' One of them was kind enough to lend me a boat with oars; I
+thanked him prettily, and then I set out to row toward the End of the
+World, taking with me two or three days' provisions.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"When I had rowed a long time I went asleep, and when I woke up next
+morning I rowed again all day until the second night I went to sleep. On
+the third day I rowed again: a little before sunset on the third day I
+saw before me high hills, all in peaks like a great saw. On the very
+highest of the peaks there were streaks of snow, and at about six
+o'clock in the afternoon I grounded my boat upon that gravelly shore and
+pulled it up upon the shingle, though it was evident either that the
+tide was high or that there was no tide in these silent places.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I offered up a prayer to the genius of the land, and tied the painter
+of the boat to two great stones, so that no wave reaching it might move
+it, and then I went on inland. When I had gone a little way I saw a
+signpost on which was written, 'To the End of the World One Mile' and
+there was a rough track along which it pointed. I went along this track.
+Everything was completely silent. There were no birds, there was no wind,
+there was nothing in the sky. But one thing I did notice, which was that
+the sun was much larger than it used to be, and that as I went along this
+last mile or so it seemed to get larger still--but that may have been my
+imagination, for I must tell you my imagination is pretty strong.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Well then, gentlemen, when I had gone a mile or so I saw another
+signpost, on which there was a large board marked 'Danger,' and a
+hundred yards beyond the track went between two great dark rocks--and
+there I was! The road had stopped short; it was broken off, jagged, just
+like a torn bit of paper ... and there was the End of the World."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"How do you mean?" said one of the younger men in an awed tone.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"What I say," said the stranger decidedly. "I had come to the end; there
+was nothing beyond. You looked down over a precipice where there was
+moss and steep grass, and on the ledges trees far below, and then more
+precipice, and then--oh, miles below--a few more trees or so clinging to
+the steep, then more precipice, and then darkness; and far away before
+me was the whole expanse of sky; and in the midst of it I saw the broad
+red sun setting into the brume; it was not yet dark enough to see the
+stars, and there was no moon in the sky.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I assure you it was a very wonderful sight, and I was awed though I was
+not afraid. And how glad I was to find that the world had an edge to it,
+and that all that talk about its being round was nonsense!
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"When the sun was set it grew dark, and I returned to find my boat; but
+I must have missed my way, for the track became broader and better, and
+at last I came to a gate of a human sort, with an initial on it, which
+showed that it had been put up by some landlord. It was an open gate,
+and after I had entered it I came upon a broad highway, beautifully
+metalled, and when I had gone along this for less than half a mile I
+came to this inn where I am now sitting. That was a week ago, and I have
+been here ever since. They took me in kindly enough, but they would not
+believe what I had to tell them about the End of the World. It is a
+great pity, gentlemen, for that wonderful sight is to be discovered
+somewhere hereabouts, and a mere accident of my losing my way in the
+darkness makes it difficult for me to find it by daylight."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Having said all this, the stranger was silent.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+One of my companions whispered to me that the old man must be mad. The
+stranger overheard him, and said with a thin smile:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Oh, I know all about that; several have suggested it already; but it is
+no answer, for if I did not come from the End of the World, where did I
+come from? No one has seen me hereabouts during the last few days until
+I came to this inn. And all the first part of my journey I can very
+easily explain, for I have notes of it, and it lasted for years. It is
+only this last part which seems to me so difficult.... I tell you I lost
+my way, and when a man has lost his way at night he can never find it
+again in the daytime."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+As he spoke he took a little piece of folded paper, rather dirty, out of
+his inner pocket, on which a rough sketch-map was drawn, and he began
+touching it with a stump of pencil that he held in his hand. His eyes
+seemed to grow dimmer as he did so, and he leaned his head upon his
+hand. "I think I have got hold of it, gentlemen," he said.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+We did not get up or go too near him, for we thought he might be
+dangerous.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"I think, gentlemen," he repeated in a more mumbling and lower and less
+certain voice, "I think I have got hold of it. I go backwards again
+through the gate to the right, just as then I went to the left, and
+after that it cannot be very far, for I see those two rocks in front of
+me. Besides which," he muttered less and less coherently, "I ought to
+have remembered of course those very high and silent hills with nothing
+living upon them...." And he added, half asleep, as his head dropped
+upon his hand, "It was westward.... I had forgotten that."
+
+Having so spoken, he seemed to fall asleep altogether, and his head fell
+back upon the corner of the wainscoting behind the bench where he sat.
+He made no noise in breathing as he slept.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It was the first time that any of us young men had come across this
+fairly common sight of a man who took things within for things without;
+some of us were frightened, and all of us wished to be rid of the place
+and to get away. As we went out we told the landlord nothing either of
+the old fellow's vagaries or of his sleep, but we went out and reached
+the town of Whitney, and when we had stayed there a couple of hours or
+so we went out southward to the station and waited there for the train
+which should take us back to Oxford.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+While we were waiting there in the station two farmers were talking
+together. One said to the other:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Ar, if he'd paid them they wouldn't have minded so much."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+To which the other answered:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Ar, 'tisn't only the paying: it's always an awkward thing when a man
+dies in your house, specially if it's licensed. My wife's brother was
+caught that way."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Then as they went on talking we found that they were talking of the man
+in the inn, who it seems had not slept very long, but was dead, and had
+died in that same room. It was a shocking thing to hear. The first
+farmer said to the second in the railway carriage when we had all got
+in:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Where'd he come from?"
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The other, who was an old man, grinned and said:
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Where we all come from, I suppose, and where we all go to." He touched
+his forehead with his hand. "He said he'd come from the End of the
+World."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+"Ar," said the other gloomily in answer, "like enough!" And after that
+they talked no more about the matter.
+</p>
+
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+
+<p>
+<a name="1">1.</a> The Rhododendrons on the great lawn are modern.
+</p>
+
+<hr>
+
+<br><br><br><br><br>
+<BR>
+<BR>
+<BR>
+<BR>
+<PRE>
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