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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/7258-0.txt b/7258-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e20b635 --- /dev/null +++ b/7258-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8113 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Dreams, Waking Thoughts, and Incidents, by +William Beckford, Edited by G. T. Bettany + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most +other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + + + + +Title: Dreams, Waking Thoughts, and Incidents + + +Author: William Beckford + +Editor: G. T. Bettany + +Release Date: May 6, 2015 [eBook #7258] +[This file was first posted on April 2, 2003] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DREAMS, WAKING THOUGHTS, AND +INCIDENTS*** + + +Transcribed from the 1891 Ward, Lock and Co. edition by David Price, +email ccx074@pglaf.org + + [Picture: William Beckford. From the original picture by Sir Joshua + Reynolds] + + + + + + DREAMS, + WAKING THOUGHTS, + AND + INCIDENTS; + IN A + SERIES OF LETTERS + FROM + VARIOUS PARTS OF EUROPE. + + +LETTER I. + + +_June_ 19_th_, 1780.—Shall I tell you my dreams?—To give an account of my +time is doing, I assure you, but little better. Never did there exist a +more ideal being. A frequent mist hovers before my eyes, and, through +its medium, I see objects so faint and hazy, that both their colours and +forms are apt to delude me. This is a rare confession, say the wise, for +a traveller to make: pretty accounts will such a one give of outlandish +countries: his correspondents must reap great benefit, no doubt, from +such purblind observations. But stop, my good friends; patience a +moment!—I really have not the vanity of pretending to make a single +remark, during the whole of my journey: if — be contented with my +visionary way of gazing, I am perfectly pleased; and shall write away as +freely as Mr. A., Mr. B., Mr. C., and a million others whose letters are +the admiration of the politest circles. + +All through Kent did I doze as usual; now and then I opened my eyes to +take in an idea or two of the green, woody country through which I was +passing; then closed them again; transported myself back to my native +hills; thought I led a choir of those I loved best through their shades; +and was happy in the arms of illusion. The sun set before I recovered my +senses enough to discover plainly the variegated slopes near Canterbury, +waving with slender birch-trees, and gilt with a profusion of broom. I +thought myself still in my beloved solitude, but missed the companions of +my slumbers. Where are they?—Behind yon blue hills, perhaps, or t’other +side of that thick forest. My fancy was travelling after these +deserters, till we reached the town; vile enough o’ conscience, and fit +only to be passed in one’s sleep. The moment after I got out of the +carriage, brought me to the cathedral; an old haunt of mine. I had +always venerated its lofty pillars, dim aisles, and mysterious arches. +Last night they were more solemn than ever, and echoed no other sound +than my steps. I strayed about the choir and chapels, till they grew so +dark and dismal, that I was half inclined to be frightened; looked over +my shoulder; thought of spectres that have an awkward trick of syllabling +men’s names in dreary places; and fancied a sepulchral voice exclaiming: +“Worship my toe at Ghent; my ribs at Florence; my skull at Bologna, +Sienna, and Rome. Beware how you neglect this order; for my bones, as +well as my spirit, have the miraculous property of being here, there, and +everywhere.” These injunctions, you may suppose, were received in a +becoming manner, and noted all down in my pocket-book by inspiration (for +I could not see), and hurrying into the open air, I was whirled away in +the dark to Margate. Don’t ask what were my dreams thither:—nothing but +horrors, deep-vaulted tombs, and pale, though lovely figures, extended +upon them; shrill blasts that sung in my ears, and filled me with +sadness, and the recollection of happy hours, fleeting away, perhaps for +ever! I was not sorry, when the bustle of our coming-in dispelled these +phantoms. The change, however, in point of scenery was not calculated to +dissipate my gloom; for the first object in this world that presented +itself, was a vast expanse of sea, just visible by the gleamings of the +moon, bathed in watery clouds; a chill air ruffled the waves. I went to +shiver a few melancholy moments on the shore. How often did I try to +wish away the reality of my separation from those I love, and attempt to +persuade myself it was but a dream! + +This morning I found myself more cheerfully disposed, by the queer Dutch +faces with short pipes and ginger-bread complexions that came smirking +and scraping to get us on board their respective vessels; but, as I had a +ship engaged for me before, their invitations were all in vain. The wind +blows fair; and, should it continue of the same mind a few hours longer, +we shall have no cause to complain of our passage. Adieu! Think of me +sometimes. If you write immediately, I shall receive your letter at the +Hague. + +It is a bright sunny evening: the sea reflects a thousand glowing +colours, and, in a minute or two, I shall be gliding on its surface. + + + + +LETTER II. + + + OSTEND, _June_ 21_st_. + +T’other minute I was in Greece, gathering the bloom of Hymettus, but now +I am landed in Flanders, smoked with tobacco, and half poisoned with +garlic. Were I to remain ten days at Ostend, I should scarcely have one +delightful vision; ’tis so unclassic a place—nothing but preposterous +Flemish roofs disgust your eyes when you cast them upwards; swaggering +Dutchmen and mongrel barbers are the principal objects they meet with +below. I should esteem myself in luck, were the nuisances of this +seaport confined only to two senses; but, alas! the apartment above my +head proves a squalling brattery, and the sounds which proceed from it +are so loud and frequent, that a person might think himself in limbo, +without any extravagance. + +Am I not an object of pity, when I tell you that I was tormented +yesterday by a similar cause? But I know not how it is; your violent +complainers are the least apt to excite compassion. I believe, +notwithstanding, if another rising generation should lodge above me at +the next inn, I shall grow as scurrilous as Dr. Smollett, and be +dignified with the appellation of the Younger Smelfungus. Well, let +those make out my diploma that will, I am determined to vent my spleen, +and like Lucifer, unable to enjoy comfort myself, tease others with the +details of my vexatious. You must know, then, since I am resolved to +grumble, that, tired with my passage, I went to the Capuchin church, a +large solemn building, in search of silence and solitude; but here again +was I disappointed. Half-a-dozen squeaking fiddles fugued and flourished +away in the galleries, and as many paralytic monks gabbled before the +altars, while a whole posse of devotees, in long white hoods and +flannels, were sweltering on either side. + +Such piety, in warm weather, was no very fragrant circumstance; so I +sought the open air again as fast as I was able. The serenity of the +evening, joined to the desire I had of casting another glance over the +ocean, tempted me to the ramparts. There, at least, thought I to myself, +I may range undisturbed, and talk with my old friends the breezes, and +address my discourse to the waves, and be as romantic and whimsical as I +please; but it happened that I had scarcely begun my apostrophe, before +out flaunted a whole rank of officers, with ladies and abbés and puppy +dogs, singing, and flirting, and making such a hubbub, that I had not one +peaceful moment to observe the bright tints of the western horizon, or +enjoy the series of antique ideas with which a calm sunset never fails to +inspire me. + +Finding, therefore, no quiet abroad, I returned to my inn, and should +have gone immediately to bed, in hopes of relapsing into the bosom of +dreams and delusions; but the limbo I mentioned before grew so very +outrageous, that I was obliged to postpone my rest till sugar-plums and +nursery eloquence had hushed it to repose. At length peace was restored, +and about eleven o’clock I fell into a slumber, during which the most +lovely Sicilian prospects filled the eye of my fancy. I anticipated the +classic scenes of that famous island, and forgot every sorrow in the +meadows of Enna. + +Next morning, awakened by the sunbeams, I arose quite refreshed by the +agreeable impressions of my dream, and filled with presages of future +happiness in the climes which had inspired them. No other idea but such +as Trinacria and Naples suggested, haunted me whilst travelling to Ghent. +I neither heard the vile Flemish dialect which was talking around me, nor +noticed formal avenues and marshy country which we passed. When we +stopped to change horses, I closed my eyes upon the whole scene, and was +transported immediately to some Grecian solitude, where Theocritus and +his shepherds were filling the air with melody. To one so far gone in +poetic antiquity, Ghent is not the most likely place to recall his +attention; and I know nothing more about it, than that it is a large, +ill-paved, dismal-looking city, with a decent proportion of convents and +chapels, stuffed with monuments, brazen gates, and glittering marbles. +In the great church were two or three pictures by Rubens, mechanically +excellent, but these realities were not designed in so graceful a manner +as to divert my attention from the mere descriptions Pausanias gives us +of the works of Grecian artists, and I would at any time fall asleep in a +Flemish cathedral, for a vision of the temple of Olympian Jupiter. But I +think I hear, at this moment, some grave and respectable personage +chiding me for such levities, and saying, “Really, Sir, you had better +stay at home, and dream in your great chair, than give yourself the +trouble of going post through Europe, in search of inspiring places to +fall asleep. If Flanders and Holland are to be dreamed over at this +rate, you had better take ship at once, and doze all the way to Italy.” +Upon my word, I should not have much objection to that scheme; and, if +some cabalist would but transport me in an instant to the summit of Ætna, +any body might slop through the Low Countries that pleased. + +Being, however, so far advanced, there was no retracting; and as it is +now three or four years since I have almost abandoned the hopes of +discovering a necromancer, I resolved to journey along with Quiet and +Content for my companions. These two comfortable deities have, I +believe, taken Flanders under their especial protection; every step one +advances discovering some new proof of their influence. The neatness of +the houses, and the universal cleanliness of the villages, show plainly +that their inhabitants live in ease and good humour. All is still and +peaceful in these fertile lowlands: the eye meets nothing but round, +unmeaning faces at every door, and harmless stupidity smiling at every +window. The beasts, as placid as their masters, graze on without any +disturbance; and I scarcely recollect to have heard one grunting swine or +snarling mastiff during my whole progress. Before every village is a +wealthy dunghill, not at all offensive, because but seldom disturbed; and +there they bask in the sun, and wallow at their ease, till the hour of +death and bacon arrives, when capacious paunches await them. If I may +judge from the healthy looks and reposed complexions of the Flemings, +they have every reason to expect a peaceful tomb. + +But it is high time to leave our swinish moralities behind us, and to jog +on towards Antwerp. More rich pastures, more ample fields of grain, more +flourishing willows!—a boundless plain before this city, dotted with cows +and flowers, from whence its spires and quaint roofs are seen to +advantage. The pale colours of the sky, and a few gleams of watery +sunshine, gave a true Flemish cast to the scenery, and everything +appeared so consistent, that I had not a shadow of pretence to think +myself asleep. + +After crossing a broad, noble river, edged on one side by beds of osiers +beautifully green, and on the other by gates and turrets preposterously +ugly, we came through several streets of lofty houses to our inn. Its +situation in the “Place de Mer,” a vast open space surrounded by +buildings above buildings, and roof above roof, has something striking +and singular. A tall gilt crucifix of bronze, sculptured by some famous +artist, adds to its splendour; and the tops of some tufted trees, seen +above a line of magnificent hotels, have no bad effect in the +perspective. + +It was almost dusk when we arrived; and as I am very partial to new +objects discovered by this dubious visionary light, I went immediately +a-rambling. Not a sound disturbed my meditations; there were no groups +of squabbling children or talkative old women. The whole town seemed +retired into their inmost chambers; and I kept winding and turning about, +from street to street, and from alley to alley, without meeting a single +inhabitant. Now and then, indeed, one or two women in long cloaks and +mantles glided about at a distance; but their dress was so shroud-like, +and their whole appearance so ghostly, that I was more than half afraid +to accost them. As the night approached, the ranges of buildings grew +more and more dim, and the silence which reigned amongst them more awful. +The canals, which in some places intersect the streets, were likewise in +perfect solitude, and there was just light sufficient for me to observe +on the still waters the reflection of the structures above them. Except +two or three tapers glimmering through the casements, no one circumstance +indicated human existence. I might, without being thought very romantic, +have imagined myself in the city of petrified people, which Arabian +fabulists are so fond of describing. Were any one to ask my advice upon +the subject of retirement, I should tell him,—By all means repair to +Antwerp. No village amongst the Alps, or hermitage upon Mount Lebanon, +is less disturbed: you may pass your days in this great city without +being the least conscious of its sixty thousand inhabitants, unless you +visit the churches. There, indeed, are to be heard a few devout +whispers, and sometimes, to be sure, the bells make a little chiming; but +walk about, as I do, in the twilights of midsummer, and be assured your +ears will be free from all molestation. + +You can have no idea how many strange, amusing fancies played around me +whilst I wandered along; nor how delighted I was with the novelty of my +situation. But a few days ago, thought I within myself, I was in the +midst of all the tumult and uproar of London: now, as if by some magic +influence, I am transported to a city equally remarkable for streets and +edifices, but whose inhabitants seem cast into a profound repose. What a +pity that we cannot borrow some small share of this soporific +disposition! It would temper that restless spirit which throws us +sometimes into such dreadful convulsions. However, let us not be too +precipitate in desiring so dead a calm; the time may arrive when, like +Antwerp, we may sink into the arms of forgetfulness; when a fine verdure +may carpet our Exchange, and passengers traverse the Strand, without any +danger of being smothered in crowds, or lost in the confusion of +carriages. + +Reflecting, in this manner, upon the silence of the place, contrasted +with the important bustle which formerly rendered it so famous, I +insensibly drew near to the cathedral, and found myself, before I was +aware, under its stupendous tower. It is difficult to conceive an object +more solemn or imposing than this edifice at the hour I first beheld it. +Dark shades hindered my examining the lower galleries or windows; their +elaborate carved work was invisible; nothing but huge masses of building +met my sight, and the tower, shooting up four hundred and sixty-six feet +into the air, received an additional importance from the gloom which +prevailed below. The sky being perfectly clear, several stars twinkled +through the mosaic of the spire, and added not a little to its enchanted +effect. I longed to ascend it that instant, to stretch myself out upon +its very summit, and calculate from so sublime an elevation the influence +of the planets. + +Whilst I was indulging my astrological reveries, a ponderous bell struck +ten, and such a peal of chimes succeeded, as shook the whole edifice, +notwithstanding its bulk, and drove me away in a hurry. No mob +obstructed my passage, and I ran through a succession of streets, free +and unmolested, as if I had been skimming along over the downs of +Wiltshire. My servants conversing before the hotel were the only sounds +which the great “Place de Mer” echoed. + +This universal stillness was the more pleasing, when I looked back upon +those scenes of horror and outcry which filled London but a week or two +ago, when danger was not confined to night only, and the environs of the +capital, but haunted our streets at midday. Here, I could wander over an +entire city; stray by the port, and venture through the most obscure +alleys, without a single apprehension; without beholding a sky red and +portentous with the light of fires, or hearing the confused and +terrifying murmurs of shouts and groans, mingled with the reports of +artillery. I can assure you, I think myself very fortunate to have +escaped the possibility of another such week of desolation, and to be +peaceably roosted at Antwerp. Were I not still fatigued with my heavy +progress through sands and quagmires, I should descant a little longer +upon the blessings of so quiet a metropolis, but it is growing late, and +I must retire to enjoy it. + + + + +LETTER III. + + + ANTWERP, _June_ 23_rd_. + +My windows look full upon the Place de Mer, and the sun, beaming through +their white curtains, awoke me from a dream of Arabian happiness. +Imagination had procured herself a tent on the mountains of Sanaa, +covered with coffee-trees in bloom. She was presenting me the essence of +their flowers, and was just telling me that you possessed a pavilion on a +neighbouring hill, when the sunshine dispelled the vision; and opening my +eyes, I found myself pent in by Flemish spires and buildings: no hills, +no verdure, no aromatic breezes, no hope of being in your vicinity: all +were vanished with the shadows of fancy, and I was left alone to deplore +your absence. But I think it rather selfish to wish you here, for what +pleasure could pacing from one dull church to another, afford a person of +your turn? I don’t believe you would catch a taste for blubbering +Magdalens and coarse Madonnas, by lolling in Rubens’ chair; nor do I +believe a view of the Ostades and Snyders, so liberally scattered in +every collection, would greatly improve your pencil. + +After breakfast this morning I began my pilgrimage to all those +illustrious cabinets. First, I went to Monsieur Van Lencren’s, who +possesses a suite of apartments, lined, from the base to the cornice, +with the rarest productions of the Flemish school. Heavens forbid I +should enter into a detail of their niceties! I might as well count the +dew-drops upon any of Van Huysem’s flower-pieces, or the pimples on their +possessor’s countenance; a very good sort of man, indeed; but from whom I +was not at all sorry to be delivered. + +My joy was, however, of short duration, as a few minutes brought me into +the courtyard of the Chanoin Knyfe’s habitation; a snug abode, well +furnished with easy chairs and orthodox couches. After viewing the rooms +on the first floor, we mounted a gentle staircase, and entered an +ante-chamber, which those who delight in the imitations of art rather +than of nature, in the likenesses of joint stools and the portraits of +tankards, would esteem most capitally adorned: but it must be confessed, +that, amongst these uninteresting performances, are dispersed a few +striking Berghems and agreeable Polemburgs. In the gallery adjoining, +two or three Rosa de Tivolis merit observation; and a large Teniers, +representing a St. Anthony surrounded by a malicious fry of imps and +leering devilesses, is well calculated to display the whimsical +buffoonery of a Dutch imagination. + +I was observing this strange medley, when the Canon made his appearance; +and a most prepossessing figure he has, according to Flemish ideas. In +my humble opinion his Reverence looked a little muddled or so; and, to be +sure, the description I afterwards heard of his style of living, favours +not a little my surmises. This worthy dignitary, what with his private +fortune and the good things of the church, enjoys a revenue of about five +thousand pounds sterling, which he contrives to get rid of in the joys of +the table and the encouragement of the pencil. + +His servants, perhaps, assist not a little in the expenditure of so +comfortable an income; the Canon being upon a very social footing with +them all. At four o’clock in the afternoon, a select party attend him in +his coach to an alehouse about a league from the city; where a table, +well spread with jugs of beer and handsome cheeses, waits their arrival. +After enjoying this rural fare, the same equipage conducts them back +again, by all accounts, much faster than they came; which may well be +conceived, as the coachman is one of the brightest wits of the +entertainment. + +My compliments, alas! were not much relished, you may suppose, by this +jovial personage. I said a few favourable words of Polemburg, and +offered up a small tribute of praise to the memory of Berghem; but, as I +could not prevail upon Mynheer Knyfe to expand, I made one of my best +bows, and left him to the enjoyment of his domestic felicity. + +In my way home, I looked into another cabinet, the greatest ornament of +which was a most sublime thistle by Snyders, of the heroic size, and so +faithfully imitated that I dare say no ass could see it unmoved. At +length, it was lawful to return home; and as I positively refused +visiting any more cabinets in the afternoon, I sent for a harpsichord of +Rucker, and played myself quite out of the Netherlands. + +It was late before I finished my musical excursion, and I took advantage +of this dusky moment to revisit the cathedral. A flight of starlings was +fluttering about one of the pinnacles of the tower; their faint chirpings +were the only sounds that broke the stillness of the air. Not a human +form appeared at any of the windows around; no footsteps were audible in +the opening before the grand entrance; and, during the half hour I spent +in walking to and fro beneath the spire, one solitary Franciscan was the +only creature that accosted me. From him I learnt that a grand service +was to be performed next day in honour of St. John the Baptist, and the +best music in Flanders would be called forth on the occasion. As I had +seen cabinets enough to form some slight judgment of Flemish painting, I +determined to stay one day longer at Antwerp to hear a little how its +inhabitants were disposed to harmony. + +Having taken this resolution, I formed an acquaintance with Mynheer +Vander Bosch, the first organist of the place, who very kindly permitted +me to sit next him in his gallery during the celebration of high mass. +The service ended, I strayed about the aisles, and examined the +innumerable chapels which decorate them, whilst Mynheer Vander Bosch +thundered and lightened away upon his huge organ with fifty stops. + +When the first flashes of execution were a little subsided, I took an +opportunity of surveying the celebrated “Descent from the Cross,” which +has ever been esteemed one of Rubens’s chef d’œuvres, and for which they +say old Lewis Baboon offered no less a sum than forty thousand florins. +The principal figure has, doubtless, a very meritorious paleness, and +looks as dead as an artist could desire; the rest of the group have been +so liberally praised, that there is no occasion to add another tittle of +commendation. A swinging St. Christopher, fording a brook with a child +on his shoulders, cannot fail of attracting your attention. This +colossal personage is painted on the folding-doors which defend the +capital performance just mentioned from vulgar eyes; and here Rubens has +selected a very proper subject to display the gigantic coarseness of his +pencil. + +Had this powerful artist confined his strength to the representation of +agonizing thieves and sturdy Barabbases, nobody would have been readier +than your humble servant to offer incense at his shrine, but when I find +him lost in the flounces of the Virgin’s drapery, or bewildered in the +graces of St. Catherine’s smile, pardon me if I withhold my adoration. +After I had most dutifully observed all the Rubenses in the church, I +walked half over Antwerp in search of St. John’s relics, which were +moving about in procession, but an heretical wind having extinguished all +their tapers, and discomposed the canopy over the Bon Dieu, I cannot say +much for the grandeur of the spectacle. If my eyes were not greatly +regaled by the Saint’s magnificence, my ears were greatly affected in the +evening by the music which sang forth his praises. The cathedral was +crowded with devotees and perfumed with incense. Several of its marble +altars gleamed with the reflection of lamps, and, altogether, the +spectacle was new and imposing. I knelt very piously in one of the +aisles while a symphony in the best style of Corelli, performed with +taste and feeling, transported me to Italian climates, and I was quite +vexed, when a cessation dissolved the charm, to think that I had still so +many tramontane regions to pass, before I could in effect reach that +classic country, where my spirit had so long taken up its abode. Finding +it was in vain to wish or expect any preternatural interposition, and +perceiving no conscious angel, or Loretto-vehicle, waiting in some dark +consecrated corner to bear me away, I humbly returned to my hotel in the +Place de Mer, and soothed myself with some terrestrial harmony; till, my +eyes growing heavy, I fell fast asleep, and entered the empire of dreams, +according to custom, by its ivory portal. What passed in those shadowy +realms is too thin and unsubstantial to be committed to paper. The very +breath of waking mortals would dissipate all the train, and drive them +eternally away; give me leave, therefore, to omit the relation of my +visionary travels, and have the patience to pursue a sketch of my real +ones from Antwerp to the Hague. + +_Monday_, _June_ 26_th_, we were again upon the pavé, rattling and +jumbling along between clipped hedges and blighted avenues. The plagues +of Egypt have been renewed, one might almost imagine, in this country, by +the appearance of the oak-trees: not a leaf have the insects spared. +After having had the displeasure of seeing no other objects for several +hours, but these blasted rows, the scene changed to vast tracts of level +country, buried in sand, and smothered with heath; the particular +character of which I had but too good an opportunity of intimately +knowing, as a tortoise might have kept pace with us without being once +out of breath. + +Towards evening, we entered the dominions of the United Provinces, and +had all their glory of canals, track-shuyts, and windmills before us. +The minute neatness of the villages, their red roofs, and the lively +green of the willows which shade them, corresponded with the ideas I had +formed of Chinese prospects; a resemblance which was not diminished upon +viewing on every side the level scenery of enamelled meadows, with +stripes of clear water across them, and innumerable barges gliding busily +along. Nothing could be finer than the weather; it improved each moment, +as if propitious to my exotic fancies; and, at sunset, not one single +cloud obscured the horizon. Several storks were parading by the +water-side, amongst flags and osiers; and, as far as the eye could reach, +large herds of beautifully spotted cattle were enjoying the plenty of +their pastures. I was perfectly in the environs of Canton, or Ning Po, +till we reached Meerdyke. You know fumigations are always the current +recipe in romance to break an enchantment; as soon, therefore, as I left +my carriage, and entered my inn, the clouds of tobacco which filled every +one of its apartments dispersed my Chinese imaginations, and reduced me +in an instant to Holland. + + [Picture: Deleft Haven] + +Why should I enlarge upon my adventures at Meerdyke? To tell you that +its inhabitants are the most uncouth bipeds in the universe would be +nothing very new or entertaining; so let me at once pass over the +village, leave Rotterdam, and even Delft, that great parent of pottery, +and transport you with a wave of my pen to the Hague. + +As the evening was rather warm, I immediately walked out to enjoy the +shade of the long avenue which leads to Scheveling. It was fresh and +pleasant enough, but I breathed none of those genuine woody perfumes, +which exhale from the depths of forests, and which allure my imagination +at once to the haunts of Pan and the good old Sylvanus. However, I was +far from displeased with my ramble; and, consoling myself with the hopes +of shortly reposing in the sylvan labyrinths of Nemi, I proceeded to the +village on the sea-coast, which terminates the perspective. Almost every +cottage door being open to catch the air, I had an opportunity of looking +into their neat apartments. Tables, shelves, earthenware, all glisten +with cleanliness; the country people were drinking tea, after the +fatigues of the day, and talking over its bargains and contrivances. + +I left them, to walk on the beach, and was so charmed with the vast azure +expanse of ocean, which opened suddenly upon me, that I remained there a +full half hour. More than two hundred vessels of different sizes were in +sight, the last sunbeams purpling their sails, and casting a path of +innumerable brilliants athwart the waves. What would I not have given to +follow this shining track! It might have conducted me straight to those +fortunate western climates, those happy isles which you are so fond of +painting, and I of dreaming about. But, unluckily, this passage was the +only one my neighbours the Dutch were ignorant of. To be sure they have +islands rich in spices, and blessed with the sun’s particular attention, +but which their government, I am apt to imagine, renders by no means +fortunate. + +Abandoning therefore all hopes at present of this adventurous voyage, I +returned towards the Hague, and, in my way home, looked into a +country-house of the late Count Bentinck, with parterres and bosquets by +no means resembling (one should conjecture) the gardens of the +Hesperides. But, considering that the whole group of trees, terraces, +and verdure were in a manner created out of hills of sand, the place may +claim some portion of merit. The walks and alleys have all the stiffness +and formality our ancestors admired; but the intermediate spaces, being +dotted with clumps and sprinkled with flowers, are imagined in Holland to +be in the English style. An Englishman ought certainly to behold it with +partial eyes, since every possible attempt has been made to twist it into +the taste of his country. + +I need not say how liberally I bestowed my encomiums on Count B.’s +tasteful intentions; nor how happy I was, when I had duly serpentized +over his garden, to find myself once more in the grand avenue. All the +way home, I reflected upon the economical disposition of the Dutch, who +raise gardens from heaps of sand, and cities out of the bosom of the +waters. I had still a further proof of this thrifty turn, since the +first object I met was an unwieldy fellow (not able, or unwilling, +perhaps, to afford horses) airing his carcass in a one-dog chair. The +poor animal puffed and panted,—Mynheer smoked, and gaped around him with +the most blessed indifference. + + + + +LETTER IV. + + + _June_ 30_th_. + +I dedicated the morning to the Prince of Orange’s cabinet of paintings +and curiosities both natural and artificial. Amongst the pictures which +amused me the most is a St. Anthony, by Hell-fire Brughel, who has shown +himself right worthy of the title; for a more diabolical variety of imps +never entered the human imagination. Brughel has made his saint take +refuge in a ditch filled with harpies and creeping things innumerable, +whose malice, one should think, would have lost Job himself the +reputation of patience. Castles of steel and fiery turrets glare on +every side, from whence issue a band of junior devils. These seem highly +entertained with pinking poor St. Anthony, and whispering, I warrant ye, +filthy tales in his ear. Nothing can be more rueful than the patient’s +countenance; more forlorn than his beard; more pious than his eye, which +forms a strong contrast to the pert winks and insidious glances of his +persecutors; some of whom; I need not mention, are evidently of the +female kind. + +But really I am quite ashamed of having detained you in such bad company +so long; and, had I a moment to spare, you should be introduced to a +better set in this gallery, where some of the most exquisite Berghems and +Wouvermans I ever beheld would delight you for hours. I do not think you +would look much at the Polemburgs; there are but two, and one of them is +very far from capital; in short I am in a great hurry; so pardon me, +Carlo Cignani! if I don’t do justice to your merit; and excuse me, +Potter! if I pass by your herds without leaving a tribute of admiration. + +Mynheer Van Something is as eager to precipitate my motions as I was to +get out of the damps and perplexities of Soorflect yesterday evening; so +mounting a very indifferent staircase, he led me to a suite of +garret-like apartments; which, considering the meanness of their +exterior, I was much surprised to find stored with some of the most +valuable productions of the Indies. Gold cups enriched with gems, models +of Chinese palaces in ivory, glittering armour of Hindostan, and Japan +caskets, filled every corner of this awkward treasury. What of all its +baubles pleased me most was a large coffer of some precious wood, +containing enamelled flasks of oriental essences, enough to perfume a +zenana, and so fragrant that I thought the Mogul himself a Dutchman, for +lavishing them upon this inelegant nation. If disagreeable fumes, as I +mentioned before, dissolve enchantments, such aromatic oils have +doubtless the power of raising them; for, whilst I scented their +fragrance, scarcely could anything have persuaded me that I was not in +the wardrobe of Hecuba,— + + “Where treasur’d odours breath’d a costly scent.” + +I saw, or seemed to see, the arched apartments, the procession of +venerable matrons, the consecrated vestments: the very temple began to +rise upon my sight, when a Dutch porpoise approaching to make me a low +bow; his complaisance was full as notorious as Satan’s, when, according +to Catholic legends, he took leave of Calvin or Dr. Faustus. No spell +can resist a fumigation of this nature; away fled palace, Hecuba, +matrons, temple, etc. I looked up, and lo! I was in a garret. As +poetry is but too often connected with this lofty situation, you won’t +wonder much at my flight. Being a little recovered from it, I tottered +down the staircase, entered the cabinets of natural history, and was soon +restored to my sober senses. A grave hippopotamus contributed a great +deal to their reestablishment. + +The butterflies, I must needs confess, were very near leading me another +dance: I thought of their native hills and beloved flowers, of Haynang +and Nan-Hoa; {110} but the jargon which was prating all around me +prevented the excursion, and I summoned a decent share of attention for +that ample chamber which has been appropriated to bottled snakes and +pickled fœtuses. + +After having enjoyed the same spectacle in the British Museum, no very +new or singular objects can be selected in this. One of the rarest +articles it contains is the representation in wax of a human head, most +dexterously flayed indeed! Rapturous encomiums have been bestowed by +amateurs on this performance. A German professor could hardly believe it +artificial; and, prompted by the love of truth, set his teeth in this +delicious morsel to be convinced of its reality. My faith was less +hazardously established; and I moved off, under the conviction that art +had never produced anything more horridly natural. + +It was one o’clock before I got through the mineral kingdom; and another +hour passed before I could quit with decorum the regions of stuffed birds +and marine productions. At length my departure was allowable; and I went +to dine at Sir Joseph Yorke’s, with all nations and languages. The Hague +is the place in the world for a motley assembly, and, in some humours, I +think such the most agreeable. + +After coffee I strayed to the great wood, which, considering that it +almost touches the town with its boughs, is wonderfully forest-like. Not +a branch being ever permitted to be lopped, the oaks and beeches retain +their natural luxuriance, and form some of the most picturesque groups +conceivable. In some places their straight boles rise sixty feet without +a bough; in others, they are bent fantastically over the alleys, which +turn and wind about just as a painter would desire. I followed them with +eagerness and curiosity, sometimes deviating from my path amongst tufts +of fern and herbage. + +In these cool retreats I could not believe myself near canals and +windmills; the Dutch formalities were all forgotten whilst contemplating +the broad masses of foliage above, and the wild flowers and grasses +below. Several hares and rabbits scudded by me while I sat; and the +birds were chirping their evening song. Their preservation does credit +to the police of the country, which is so exact and well regulated as to +suffer no outrage within the precincts of this extensive wood, the depth +and thickness of which seem calculated to favour half the sins of a +capital. + + [Picture: Amsterdam from the Quay] + +Relying upon this comfortable security, I lingered unmolested amongst the +beeches till the ruddy gold of the setting sun ceased to glow on their +foliage; then taking the nearest path, I suffered myself, though not +without regret, to be conducted out of this fresh sylvan scene to the +dusty, pompous parterres of the Greffier Fagel. Every flower that wealth +can purchase diffuses its perfume on one side; whilst every stench a +canal can exhale, poisons the air on the other. These sluggish puddles +defy all the power of the United Provinces, and retain the freedom of +stinking in spite of their endeavours: but perhaps I am too bold in my +assertion; for I have no authority to mention any attempts to purify +these noxious pools. Who knows but their odour is congenial to a Dutch +constitution? One should be inclined to this supposition by the numerous +banqueting-rooms and pleasure-houses which hang directly above their +surface, and seem calculated on purpose to enjoy them. If frogs were not +excluded from the magistrature of their country (and I cannot but think +it a little hard that they are), one should not wonder at this choice. +Such burgomasters might erect their pavilions in such situations. But, +after all, I am not greatly surprised at the fishiness of their site, +since very slight authority would persuade me there was a period when +Holland was all water, and the ancestors of the present inhabitants fish. +A certain oysterishness of eye and flabbiness of complexion are almost +proofs sufficient of this aquatic descent: and pray tell me for what +purpose are such galligaskins as the Dutch burthen themselves with +contrived, but to tuck up a flouncing tail, and thus cloak the deformity +of their dolphin-like terminations? + +Having done penance for some time in the damp alleys which line the +borders of these lazy waters, I was led through corkscrew sand-walks to a +vast flat, sparingly scattered over with vegetation. To puzzle myself in +such a labyrinth there was no temptation, so taking advantage of the +lateness of the hour, and muttering a few complimentary promises of +returning at the first opportunity, I escaped the ennui of this endless +scrubbery, and got home, with the determination of being wiser and less +curious if ever my stars should bring me again to the Hague. To-morrow I +bid it adieu, and if the horses but second my endeavours, shall be +delivered in a few days from the complicated plagues of the United +Provinces. + + + + +LETTER V. + + + HAERLEM, _July_ 1_st_. + +The sky was clear and blue when we left the Hague, and we travelled along +a shady road for about an hour, then down sunk the carriage into a +sand-bed, and we were dragged along so slowly that I fell into a profound +repose. How long it lasted is not material; but when I awoke, we were +rumbling through Leyden. There is no need to write a syllable in honour +of this illustrious city: its praises have already been sung and said by +fifty professors, who have declaimed in its university, and smoked in its +gardens. So let us get out of it as fast as we can, and breathe the cool +air of the wood near Haerlem, where we arrived just as day declined. Hay +was making in the fields, and perfumed the country far and wide with its +reviving fragrance. I promised myself a pleasant walk in the groves, +took up Gesner, and began to have pretty pastoral ideas; but when I +approached the nymphs that were dispersed on the meads, and saw faces +that would have dishonoured a flounder, and heard accents that would have +confounded a hog, all my dislike to the walking filth of the Low +Countries returned. I let fall the garlands I had wreathed for the +shepherds; we jumped into the carriage, and were driven off to the town. +Every avenue to it swarmed with people, whose bustle and agitation seemed +to announce that something extraordinary was going forward. Upon inquiry +I found it was the great fair at Haerlem; and before we had advanced much +farther, our carriage was surrounded by idlers and gingerbread-eaters of +all denominations. Passing the gate, we came to a cluster of little +illuminated booths beneath a grove, glittering with toys and +looking-glasses. It was not without difficulty that we reached our inn, +and then the plague was to procure chambers; at last we were +accommodated, and the first moment I could call my own has been dedicated +to you. + +You won’t be surprised at the nonsense I have written, since I tell you +the scene of the riot and uproar from whence it bears date. At this very +moment the confused murmur of voices and music stops all regular +proceedings: old women and children tattling; apes, bears, and show-boxes +under the windows; French rattling, English swearing, outrageous +Italians, frisking minstrels; _tambours de basque_ at every corner; +myself distracted; a confounded squabble of cooks and haranguing German +couriers just arrived, their masters following open-mouthed; nothing to +eat, the steam of ham and flesh-pots all the while provoking their +appetite; Mynheers very busy with the realities, and smoking as +deliberately as if in a solitary lusthuys over the laziest canal in the +Netherlands; squeaking chambermaids in the galleries above, and prudish +dames below, half inclined to receive the golden solicitations of certain +beauties for admittance, but positively refusing them the moment some +creditable personage appears; eleven o’clock strikes; half the lights in +the fair are extinguished; scruples grow less and less delicate; Mammon +prevails, darkness and complaisance succeed. Good-night; may you sleep +better than I shall. + + + + +LETTER VI. + + + UTRECHT, _July_ 2_nd_. + +Well, thank Heaven, Amsterdam is behind us! How I got thither signifies +not one farthing; it was all along a canal, as usual. The weather was +hot enough to broil an inhabitant of Bengal; and the odours, exhaling +from every quarter, sufficiently powerful to regale the nose of a +Hottentot. + +Under these agreeable circumstances we entered the great city. The +Stadt-huys being the only cool place it contained, I repaired thither as +fast as the heat permitted, and walked in a lofty marble hall, +magnificently covered, till the dinner was ready at the inn. That +despatched, we set off for Utrecht. Both sides of the way are lined with +the country-houses and gardens of opulent citizens, as fine as gilt +statues and clipped hedges can make them. Their number is quite +astonishing: from Amsterdam to Utrecht, full thirty miles, we beheld no +other objects than endless avenues and stiff parterres scrawled and +flourished in patterns like the embroidery of an old maid’s work-bag. +Notwithstanding this formal taste, I could not help admiring the neatness +and arrangement of every inclosure, enlivened by a profusion of flowers, +and decked with arbours, beneath which a vast number of round unmeaning +faces were solacing themselves after the heat of the day. Each lusthuys +we passed contained some comfortable party dozing over their pipes, or +angling in the muddy fish-ponds below. Scarce an avenue but swarmed with +female josses; little squat pug-dogs waddling at their sides, the +attributes, I suppose, of these fair divinities. + +But let us leave them to loiter thus amiably in their Elysian groves, and +arrive at Utrecht; which, as nothing very remarkable claimed my +attention, I hastily quitted to visit a Moravian establishment at Siest, +in its neighbourhood. The chapel, a large house, late the habitation of +Count Zinzendorf, and a range of apartments filled with the holy +fraternity, are totally wrapped in dark groves, overgrown with weeds, +amongst which some damsels were straggling, under the immediate +protection of their pious brethren. + +Traversing the woods, we found ourselves in a large court, built round +with brick edifices, the grass-plats in a deplorable way, and one ragged +goat, their only inhabitant, on a little expiatory scheme, perhaps, for +the failings of the fraternity. I left this poor animal to ruminate in +solitude, and followed my guide into a series of shops furnished with +gew-gaws and trinkets, said to be manufactured by the female part of the +society. Much cannot be boasted of their handiworks: I expressed a wish +to see some of these industrious fair ones; but, upon receiving no +answer, found this was a subject _of which there was no discourse_. + +Consoling myself as well as I was able, I put myself under the guidance +of another slovenly disciple, who showed me the chapel, and harangued +very pathetically upon celestial love. In my way thither, I caught a +glimpse of some pretty sempstresses, warbling melodious hymns as they sat +needling and thimbling at their windows above. I had a great inclination +to have approached this busy group, but the roll of the brother’s eye +corrected me. + +Reflecting upon my unworthiness, I retired from the consecrated +buildings, and was driven back to Utrecht, not a little amused with my +expedition. If you are as well disposed to be pleased as I was, I shall +esteem myself very lucky, and not repent sending you so incorrect a +narrative. I really have not time to look it over, and am growing so +drowsy, that you will, I hope, pardon all its errors, when you consider +that my pen writes in its sleep. + + + + +LETTER VII. + + + SPA, _July_ 6_th_. + +From Utrecht to Bois le Duc nothing but sand and heath; no inspiration, +no whispering foliage, not even a grasshopper, to put one in mind of +Eclogues and Theocritus. “But why did you not fall into one of your +beloved slumbers, and dream of poetic mountains? This was the very +country to shut one’s eyes upon without disparagement.” Why so I did, +but the postillions and boatmen obliged me to open them, as soon as they +were closed. Four times was I shoved, out of my visions, into leaky +boats, and towed across as many idle rivers. I thought there was no end +of these tiresome transits; and, when I reached my journey’s end, was so +completely jaded that I almost believed Charon would be the next aquatic +I should have to deal with. The fair light of the morning (Tuesday, July +4th) was scarcely sufficient to raise my spirits, and I had left Bois le +Duc a good way in arrears before I was thoroughly convinced of my +existence; when I looked through the blinds of the carriage, and saw +nothing but barren plains and mournful willows, banks clad with rushes, +and heifers so black and dismal that Proserpine herself would have given +them up to Hecate. I was near believing myself in the neighbourhood of a +certain evil place, where I should be punished for all my croakings. We +travelled at this rate, I dare say, fifteen miles, without seeing a +single shed: at last, one or two miserable cottages appeared, darkened by +heath, and stuck in a sand-pit; from whence issued a half-starved +generation, that pursued us a long while with their piteous wailings. +The heavy roads and ugly prospects, together with the petulant clamours +of my petitioners, made me quite uncharitable. I was in a dark, +remorseless mood, which lasted me till we reached Brée, a shabby decayed +town, encompassed by walls and ruined turrets. Having nothing to do, I +straggled about them, till night shaded the dreary prospects, and gave me +an opportunity of imagining them, if I pleased, noble and majestic. +Several of these waning edifices were invested with thick ivy: the +evening was chill, and I crept under their covert. Two or three brother +owls were before me, but politely gave up their pretensions to the spot, +and, as soon as I appeared, with a rueful whoop flitted away to some +deeper retirement. I had scarcely begun to mope in tranquillity, before +a rapid shower trickled amongst the clusters above me, and forced me to +abandon my haunt. Returning in the midst of it to my inn, I hurried to +bed, and was soon lulled asleep by the storm. A dream bore me off to +Persepolis; and led me thro’ vast subterraneous treasures to a hall, +where Solomon, methought, was holding forth upon their vanity. I was +upon the very point of securing a part of this immense wealth, and +fancied myself writing down the sage prophet’s advice how to make use of +it, when a loud vociferation in the street, and the bell of a +neighbouring chapel, dispersed the vision. Starting up, I threw open the +windows, and found it was eight o’clock (Wednesday, July 5th), and had +hardly rubbed my eyes, before beggars came limping from every quarter. I +knew their plaguy voices but too well; and that the same hubbub had +broken my slumbers, and driven me from wisdom and riches to the regions +of ignorance and poverty. The halt, the lame, and the blind, being +restored, by the miracle of a few stivers, to their functions, we +breakfasted in peace, and, gaining the carriage, waded through sandy +deserts to Maestricht: our view, however, was considerably improved, for +a league round the town, and presented some hills and pleasant valleys, +smiling with crops of grain: here and there, green meadows, spread over +with hay, varied the prospect, which the chirping of birds (the first I +had heard for many a tedious day) amongst the barley, rendered so +cheerful, that I began, like them, my exultations, and was equally +thoughtless and serene. I need scarcely tell you, that, leaving the +coach, I pursued a deep furrow between two extensive corn-fields, and +reposed upon a bank of flowers, the golden ears waving above my head, and +entirely bounding my prospect. Here I lay, in peace and sunshine, a few +happy moments; contemplating the blue sky, and fancying myself restored +to the valley at F., where I have passed so many happy hours, shut out +from the world, and concealed in the bosom of harvests. It was then I +first grew so fond of dreaming; and no wonder, since I have frequently +imagined that Ceres did not disdain to inspire my slumbers; but, half +concealed, half visible, would tell me amusing stories of her reapers; +and, sometimes more seriously inclined, recite the affecting tale of her +misfortunes. At midday, when all was still, and a warm haze seemed to +repose on the face of the landscape, I have often fancied this celestial +voice bewailing Proserpine, in the most pathetic accents. From these +sacred moments I resolved to offer sacrifice in the fields of Enna; to +explore their fragrant recesses, and experience whether the Divinity +would not manifest herself to me in her favourite domain. It was this +vow, which tempted me from my native valleys. Its execution, therefore, +being my principal aim, I deserted my solitary bank and proceeded on my +journey. Maestricht abounds in Gothic churches, but contains no temple +to Ceres. I was not sorry to quit it, after spending an hour unavoidably +within its walls. Our road was conducted up a considerable eminence, +from the summit of which we discovered a range of woody steeps, extending +for leagues; beneath lay a winding valley, richly variegated and lighted +up by the Maese. The evening sun, scarcely gleaming through hazy clouds, +cast a pale, tender hue upon the landscape, and the copses, still dewy +with a shower that had lately fallen, diffused the most grateful +fragrance. Flocks of sheep hung browsing on the acclivities, whilst a +numerous herd were dispersed along the river’s side. I stayed so long, +enjoying this pastoral scene, that we did not arrive at Liège till the +night was advanced, and the moon risen. Her interesting gleams were +thrown away upon this ill-built, crowded city; and I grieved that gates +and fortifications prevented my breathing the fresh air of the +surrounding mountains. + +Next morning (July 6th) a zigzag road brought us, after many descents and +rises, to Spa. The approach, through a rocky vale, is not totally devoid +of picturesque merit, and as I met no cabriolets or tituppings on the +chaufée, I concluded that the waters were not as yet much visited; and +that I should have their romantic environs pretty much to myself. But, +alas, how rudely was I deceived! The moment we entered up flew a dozen +sashes. Chevaliers de St. Louis, meagre Marquises, and ladies of the +scarlet order of Babylon, all poked their heads out. In a few minutes +half the town was in motion; tailors, confectioners, and barbers +thrusting bills into our hands with manifold grimaces and contortions. +Then succeeded a grand _entré_ of _valets de place_, who were hardly +dismissed before the lodging letters arrived, followed by somebody with a +list of _les seigneurs_ and _dames_ as long as a Welsh pedigree. +Half-an-hour was wasted in speeches and recommendations; another passed +before we could snatch a morsel of refreshment; they then finding I was +neither inclined to go to the ball, nor enter the land where Pharaoh +reigneth, peace was restored, a few feeble bows were scraped, and I found +myself in perfect solitude. Taking advantage of this quiet moment, I +stole out of town, and followed a path cut in the rocks, which brought me +to a young wood of oaks on their summits. Luckily I met no saunterer: +the gay vagabonds, it seemed, were all at the assembly, as happy as +billiards and chit-chat could make them. It was not an evening to tempt +such folks abroad. The air was cool, and the sky lowering; a melancholy +cloud shaded the wild hills and irregular woods at a distance. There was +something so importunate in their appearance, that I could not help +asking their name, and was told they were skirts of the forest of +Ardenne, amongst whose enchanted labyrinths the heroes of Boyardo and +Ariosto roved formerly in quest of adventures. I felt myself singularly +affected whilst gazing upon a wood so celebrated in romance for feats of +the highest chivalry; and, Don Quixote-like, would have explored its +recesses in search of that memorable fountain of hatred, which (if you +recollect the story) was raised by Merlin to free illustrious knights and +damsels from the torments of rejected love. So far was I advanced in +these romantic fancies, that, forgetting the lateness of the hour, I +wandered on, expecting to reach the fountain at every step; but at length +it grew so dusky that, unable to trace back my way amongst the thickets, +in vain I strayed through intricate copses, till the clouds began to +disperse and the moon appeared. Being so placed as to receive the full +play of silver radiance, to my no small surprise, I beheld a precipice +immediately beneath my feet. The chasm was deep and awful; something +like the entrance to a grot discovered itself below, and if I had not +already been disappointed on the score of the fount, I won’t answer but +that I should have flung myself adventurously down, and tried whether I +might not have seen such wonders as appeared to Bradamante, when cast by +Pinnabel, rather impolitely, into Merlin’s cave. But no propitious light +beaming from the cavity, I concluded times were changed; and searching +about me, found at last a shelving steep, which it was just possible to +descend without goat’s heels, and that’s all. + +In my way home, I passed the redoute, and seeing a vast glare of lustres +in its apartments, I ran upstairs and found the gamblers all eager in +storming the Pharaoh Bank: a young Englishman of distinction seemed the +most likely to raise the siege, which increased every instant in +turbulence; but not feeling the least inclination to protract or to +shorten its fate, I left the knights to their adventures, and returned +ingloriously to my inn. + + [Picture: The canal, Ghent, and Aix la Chapelle Cathedral] + +All languages are chattering at the Table d’Hôte, and all sorts of +business transacted under my very windows. The racket and perfume of +this place make me resolve to get out of it to-morrow; as that is the +case, you won’t hear from me till I reach Munich. Adieu! May we meet in +our dreams by the fountain of Merlin, and from thence take our flight +with Astolpho to the moon; for I shrewdly suspect the best part of our +senses are bottled up there; and then, you know, it will be a delightful +novelty to wake up with a clear understanding. + +“Indeed, Sir, no Monsieur _comme il faut_, ever left Spa in such dudgeon +before, unless jilted by a Polish princess, or stripped by an itinerant +Count! You have neither breakfasted at the Vauxhall, nor attended the +Spectacle, nor tasted the waters. Had you but taken one sip, your +ill-humour would have all trickled away, and you would have felt both +your heels and your elbows quite alive in the evening.”—Granted; but pray +tell your postillions to drive off as fast as their horses will carry +them. + +Away we went to Aix-la-Chapelle about ten at night, and saw the +mouldering turrets of that once illustrious capital by the help of a +candle and lantern. An old woman asked our names (for not a single +soldier appeared); and traversing a number of superannuated streets +without perceiving the least trace of Charlemagne or his Paladins, we +procured comfortable though not magnificent apartments, and slept most +unheroically sound, till it was time to set forward for Dusseldorf. + +_July_ 8_th_.—As we were driven out of the town, I caught a glimpse of a +grove, hemmed in by dingy buildings, where a few water-drinkers were +sauntering along to the sound of some rueful French horns; the wan +greenish light admitted through the foliage made them look like unhappy +souls condemned to an eternal lounge for having trifled away their +existence. It was not with much regret that I left such a party behind; +and, after experiencing the vicissitudes of good roads and rumbling +pavements, found myself, towards the close of evening, upon the banks of +the Rhine. + +Many wild ideas thronged into my mind, the moment I beheld this +celebrated river. I thought of the vast regions through which it flows, +and suffered my imagination to expatiate as far as its source. A red, +variegated sky, reflected from the stream, the woods trembling on its +banks, and the spires of Nuys rising beyond them, helped to amuse my +fancy. Not being able to brook the confinement of the carriage, I left +it to come over at its leisure; and, stepping into a boat, rowed along, +at first, by the quivering osiers; then, launching out into the midst of +the waters, I glided a few moments with the current, and resting on my +oars, listened to the hum of voices afar off, while several little +skiffs, like canoes, glanced before my sight, concerning which distance +and the twilight allowed me to make a thousand fantastic conjectures. +When I had sufficiently indulged these extravagant reveries, I began to +cross over the river in good earnest; and being landed on its opposite +margin, travelled forwards to the town. + +Nothing but the famous gallery of paintings could invite strangers to +stay a moment within its walls; more crooked streets, more indifferent +houses, one seldom meets with; except soldiers, not a living creature +moving about them; and at night a complete regiment of bugs “marked me +for their own.” Thus I lay, at once both the seat of war and the victim +of these detestable animals, till early in the morning (Sunday, July +9th), when Morpheus, compassionating my sufferings, opened the ivory +gates of his empire, and freed his votary from the most unconscionable +vermin that ever nastiness engendered. In humble prose, I fell fast +asleep; and remained quiet, in defiance of my adversaries, till it was +time to survey the cabinet. + +This collection is displayed in five large galleries, and contains some +valuable productions of the Italian school; but the room most boasted of +is that which Rubens has filled with no less than three enormous +representations of the last day, where an innumerable host of sinners are +exhibited as striving in vain to avoid the tangles of the devil’s tail. +The woes of several fat luxurious souls are rendered in the highest +gusto. Satan’s dispute with some brawny concubines, whom he is lugging +off in spite of all their resistance, cannot be too much admired by those +who approve this class of subject, and think such strange imbroglios in +the least calculated to raise a sublime or a religious idea. + +For my own part, I turned from them with disgust, and hastened to +contemplate a Holy Family by Camillo Procaccini, in another apartment. +The brightest imagination can never conceive any figure more graceful +than that of the young Jesus; and if ever I beheld an inspired +countenance or celestial features, it was here: but to attempt conveying +in words what colours alone can express, would be only reversing the +absurdity of many a master in the gallery, who aims to represent those +ideas by colours which language alone is able to describe. Should you +admit this opinion, you won’t be surprised at my passing such a multitude +of renowned pictures unnoticed; nor at my bringing you out of the cabinet +without deluging ten pages with criticisms in the style of the ingenious +Lady M—. + +As I had spent so much time in gazing at Camillo’s divinity, the day was +too far advanced to think of travelling to Cologne; I was therefore +obliged to put myself once more under the dominion of the most inveterate +bugs in the universe. This government, like many others, made but an +indifferent use of its power, and the subject suffering accordingly was +extremely rejoiced at flying from his persecutors to Cologne. + +_July_ 10_th_.—Clouds of dust hindered my making any remarks on the +exterior of this celebrated city; but if its appearance be not more +beautiful from without than within, I defy Mr. Salmon himself to launch +forth very warmly in its praise. But of what avail are stately palaces, +broad streets, or airy markets, to a town which can boast of such a +treasure as the bodies of those three wise sovereigns who were star-led +to Bethlehem? Is not this circumstance enough to procure it every +respect? I really believe so, from the pious and dignified contentment +of its inhabitants. They care not a hair of an ass’s ear whether their +houses be gloomy and ill-contrived, their pavements overgrown with weeds, +and their shops with filthiness, provided the carcasses of Gaspar, +Melchior, and Balthazar might be preserved with proper decorum. Nothing, +to be sure, can be richer than the shrine which contains these precious +relics. I paid my devotions before it the moment I arrived; this step +was inevitable: had I omitted it, not a soul in Cologne but would have +cursed me for a Pagan. + +Do you not wonder at hearing of these venerable bodies so far from their +native country? I thought them snug in some Arabian pyramid ten feet +deep in spice; but you see one can never tell what is to become of one a +few ages hence. Who knows but the Emperor of Morocco may be canonized +some future day in Lapland? I asked, of course, how in the name of +miracles they came hither; but found no story of a supernatural +conveyance. It seems the holy Empress Helena, as great a collectress of +relics as the D—s of P. is of profane curiosities, first routed them out: +then they were packed off to Rome. King Alaric, having no grace, bundled +them down to Milan; where they remained till it pleased God to inspire an +ancient archbishop with the fervent wish of depositing them at Cologne. +There these skeletons were taken into the most especial consideration, +crowned with jewels and filigreed with gold. Never were skulls more +elegantly mounted; and I doubt whether Odin’s buffet could exhibit so +fine an assortment. The chapel containing these beatified bones is +placed in a dark extremity of the cathedral. Several golden lamps gleam +along the polished marbles with which it is adorned, and afford just +light enough to read the following monkish inscription:— + + “CORPORA SANCTORUM RECUBANT HIC TERNA MAGORUM; + EX HIS SUBLATUM NIHIL EST ALIBIVE LOCATUM.” + +After I had satisfied my curiosity with respect to the peregrinations of +the consecrated skeletons, I examined their shrine; and was rather +surprised to find it not only enriched with barbaric gold and pearl, but +covered with cameos and intaglios of the best antique sculpture. Many an +impious emperor and gross Silenus, many a wanton nymph and frantic +bacchanal, figure in the same range with the statues of saints and +evangelists. How St. Helena could tolerate such a mixed assembly (for +the shrine was formed under her auspices) surpasses my comprehension. +Perhaps you will say it is no great matter, and give me a hint to move +out of the chapel, lest the three kings and their star should lead me +quite out of my way. Very well; I think I had better stop in time, to +tell you, without further excursion, that we set off after dinner for +Bonn. + +Our road-side was lined with beggarly children, high convent walls, and +scarecrow crucifixes, lubberly monks, dejected peasants, and all the +delights of Catholicism. Such scenery not engaging a share of my +attention, I kept gazing at the azure irregular mountains which bounded +our view, and in thought was already transported to their summits. +Various are the prospects I surveyed from this imaginary exaltation, and +innumerable the chimeras which trotted in my brain. Mounted on these +fantastic quadrupeds, I shot swiftly from rock to rock, and built castles +in the style of Piranesi upon most of their pinnacles. The magnificence +and variety of my aërial towers hindered my thinking the way long. I was +still walking with a crowd of phantoms upon their terraces, when the +carriage made a halt. Immediately descending the innumerable flights of +steps which divide such lofty edifices from the lower world, I entered +the inn at Bonn, and was shown into an apartment which commands the chief +front of the Elector’s palace. You may guess how contemptible it +appeared to one just returned from the court of fancy. + +In other respects, I saw it in a very favourable moment; for the +twilight, shading the whole façade, concealed its plaistered walls and +painted pillars; their pediments and capitals being tolerably well +proportioned, and the range of windows beneath considerable, I gave the +architect more credit than he deserved, and paced to and fro beneath the +arcade, as pompously as if arrived at the Vatican; but the circumstance +which rendered my walk in reality agreeable, was the prevalence of a +delicious perfume. It was so dusky, that I was a minute or two seeking +in vain the entrance of an orangery, from whence this reviving scent +proceeded. At length I discovered it; and, passing under an arch, found +myself in the midst of lemon and orange trees, now in the fullest blow, +which form a continued grove before the palace, and extend, on each side +of its grand portal, out of sight. A few steps separate this extensive +terrace from a lawn, bordered by stately rows of beeches. Beyond, in the +centre of this striking theatre, rises a romantic assemblage of distant +mountains, crowned with the ruins of castles, whose turrets, but faintly +seen, were just such as you have created to complete a prospect. I was +the only human being in the misty extent of the gardens, and was happier +in my solitude than I can describe. No noise disturbed its silence, +except the flutter of moths and trickling of fountains. These undecided +sounds, corresponding with the dimness and haze of the scenery, threw me +into a pensive state of mind, neither gay nor dismal. I recapitulated +the wayward adventures of my childhood, and traced back each moment of a +period, which had seen me happy. Then, turning my thoughts towards +future days, my heart beat at the idea of that awful veil which covers +the time to come. One moment, ’twas the brightest hope that glittered +behind it; the next, a series of melancholy images clouded the +perspective. Thus, alternately swayed by fears and exultation, I passed +an interesting hour in the twilight, ranging amongst the orange trees, or +reclined by the fountain. I could not boast of being perfectly +satisfied, since those were absent, without whom not even the fields of +Enna could be charming. However, I was far from displeased with the +clear streams that bubbled around, and could willingly have dropped +asleep by their margin. Had I reposed in so romantic a situation, the +murmurs of trees and waters would doubtless have invited “some strange +mysterious dream” to hover over me, and perhaps futurity might have been +unveiled. + + + + +LETTER VIII. + + +_July _11_th_.—Let those who delight in picturesque country repair to the +borders of the Rhine, and follow the road which we took from Bonn to +Coblentz. In some places it is suspended like a cornice above the +waters; in others, it winds behind lofty steeps and broken acclivities, +shaded by woods and clothed with an endless variety of plants and +flowers. Several green paths lead amongst this vegetation to the summits +of the rocks, which often serve as the foundation of abbeys and castles, +whose lofty roofs and spires, rising above the cliffs, impress passengers +with ideas of their grandeur, that might probably vanish upon a nearer +approach. Not choosing to lose any prejudice in their favour, I kept a +respectful distance whenever I left my carriage, and walked on the banks +of the river. + +Just before we came to Andernach, an antiquated town with strange +morisco-looking towers, I spied a raft, at least three hundred feet in +length, on which ten or twelve cottages were erected, and a great many +people employed in sawing wood. The women sat spinning at their doors, +whilst their children played among the water-lilies that bloomed in +abundance on the edge of the stream. A smoke, rising from one of these +aquatic habitations, partially obscured the mountains beyond, and added +not a little, to their effect. + +Altogether, the scene was so novel and amusing, that I sat half an hour +contemplating it from an eminence under the shade of some leafy walnuts; +and should like extremely to build a moveable village, people it with my +friends, and so go floating about from island to island, and from one +woody coast of the Rhine to another. Would you dislike such a party? I +am much deceived, or you would be the first to explore the shades and +promontories beneath which we should be wafted along. + +But I don’t think you would find Coblentz, where we were obliged to take +up our night’s lodging, much to your taste. ’Tis a mean, dirty +assemblage of plastered houses, striped with paint, and set off with +wooden galleries, in the beautiful taste of St. Giles’s. Above, on a +rock, stands the palace of the Elector, which seems to be remarkable for +nothing but situation. I did not bestow many looks on this structure +whilst ascending the mountain across which our road to Mayence conducted +us. + +_July_ 12_th_.—Having attained the summit, we discovered a vast, +irregular range of country, and advancing, found ourselves amongst downs +bounded by forests and purpled with thyme. This sort of prospect +extending for several leagues, I walked on the turf, and inhaled with +avidity the fresh gales that blew over its herbage, till I came to a +steep slope overgrown with privet and a variety of luxuriant shrubs in +blossom; there reposing beneath its shade, I gathered flowers, listened +to the bees, observed their industry, and idled away a few minutes with +great fascination. A cloudless sky and bright sunshine made me rather +loth to move on; but the charms of the landscape, increasing every +instant, drew me forward. + +I had not gone far, before a winding valley discovered itself, shut in by +rocks and mountains clothed to their very summits with the thickest +woods. A broad river, flowing at the base of the cliffs, reflected the +impending vegetation, and looked so calm and glassy that I was determined +to be better acquainted with it. For this purpose we descended by a +zigzag path into the vale, and making the best of our way on the banks of +the Lune (for so is the river called), came suddenly upon the town of +Ems, famous in mineral story; where finding very good lodgings, we took +up our abode, and led an Indian life amongst the wilds and mountains. + +After supper I walked on a smooth lawn by the river, to observe the moon +journeying through a world of silver clouds that lay dispersed over the +face of the heavens. It was a mild genial evening; every mountain cast +its broad shadow on the surface of the stream; lights twinkled afar off +on the hills; they burnt in silence. All were asleep, except a female +figure in white, with glow-worms shining in her hair. She kept moving +disconsolately about; sometimes I heard her sigh; and if apparitions +sigh, this must have been an apparition. Upon my return, I asked a +thousand questions, but could never obtain any information of the figure +and its luminaries. + +_July _13_th_.—The pure air of the morning invited me early to the hills. +Hiring a skiff, I rowed about a mile down the stream, and landed on a +sloping meadow, level with the waters, and newly mown. Heaps of hay +still lay dispersed under the copses which hemmed in on every side this +little sequestered paradise. What a spot for a tent! I could encamp +here for months, and never be tired. Not a day would pass by without +discovering some new promontory, some untrodden pasture, some unsuspected +vale, where I might remain among woods and precipices lost and forgotten. +I would give you, and two or three more, the clue of my labyrinth: nobody +else should be conscious of its entrance. Full of such agreeable dreams, +I rambled about the meads, scarcely knowing which way I was going; +sometimes a spangled fly led me astray, and, oftener, my own strange +fancies. Between both, I was perfectly bewildered, and should never have +found my boat again, had not an old German naturalist, who was collecting +fossils on the cliffs, directed me to it. + +When I got home it was growing late, and I now began to perceive that I +had taken no refreshment, except the perfume of the hay and a few wood +strawberries; airy diet, you will observe, for one not yet received into +the realms of Ginnistan. {127} + +_July_ 14_th_.—I have just made a discovery, that this place as full of +idlers and water-drinkers as their Highnesses of Orange and Hesse +Darmstadt can desire; for to them accrue all the profits of its +salubrious fountains. I protest, I knew nothing of all this yesterday, +so entirely was I taken up with the rocks and meadows; no chance of +meeting either card or billiard players in their solitudes. Both abound +at Ems, where they hop and fidget from ball to ball, unconscious of the +bold scenery in their neighbourhood, and totally insensible to its +charms. They had no notion, not they, of admiring barren crags and +precipices, where even the Lord would lose his way, as a coarse lubber +decorated with stars and orders very ingeniously observed to me; nor +could they form the least conception of any pleasure there was in +climbing like a goat amongst the cliffs, and then diving into woods and +recesses where the sun had never penetrated; where there were neither +card-tables prepared nor sideboards garnished; no _jambon de Mayence_ in +waiting; no supply of pipes, nor any of the commonest delights, to be met +with in the commonest taverns. + +To all this I acquiesced with most perfect submission, but immediately +left the orator to entertain a circle of antiquated dames and +weather-beaten officers who were gathering around him. Scarcely had I +turned my back upon this polite assembly, when _Monsieur l’Administrateur +des bains_, a fine pompous fellow, who had been _maitre d’hôtel_ in a +great German family, came forward purposely to acquaint me, I suppose, +that their baths had the honour of possessing Prince Orloff, “_avec sa +grande maitresse_, _son Chamberlain et quelques Dames d’Honneur_:” +moreover, that his Highness came hither to refresh himself after his +laborious employments at the Court of Petersburg, and expected (_grace +aux eaux_!) to return to the domains his august sovereign had lately +bestowed upon him in perfect health, and to become the father of his +people. + +Wishing Monsieur d’Orloff all possible success, I should have left the +company at a great distance, had not a violent shower stopped my career, +and obliged me to return to my apartment. The rain growing heavier, +intercepted the prospect of the mountains, and spread such a gloom over +the vale as sank my spirits fifty degrees; to which a close foggy +atmosphere not a little contributed. Towards night the clouds assumed a +more formidable aspect. Thunder rolled awfully along the distant cliffs, +and several rapid torrents began to run down the steeps. Unable to stay +within, I walked into an open portico, listening to the murmur of the +river, mingled with the roar of falling waters. At intervals a blue +flash of lightning discovered their agitated surface, and two or three +scared women rushing through the storm and calling all the saints in +Paradise to their assistance. + +Things were in this state, when the orator who had harangued so +brilliantly on the nothingness of ascending mountains, took shelter under +the porch, and entering immediately into conversation, regaled my ears +with a woful narration of murders which had happened the other day on the +precise road I was to follow next morning. + +“Sir,” said he, “your route is, to be sure, very perilous: on the left +you have a chasm, down which, should your horses take the smallest alarm, +you are infallibly precipitated; to the right hangs an impervious wood, +and there, sir, I can assure you, are wolves enough to devour a regiment; +a little farther on, you cross a desolate tract of forest land, the roads +so deep and broken, that if you go ten paces in as many minutes you may +think yourself fortunate. There lurk the most savage banditti in Europe, +lately irritated by the Prince of Orange’s proscription; and so +desperate, that if they once attack, you can expect no mercy. Should you +venture through this hazardous district to-morrow, you will, in all +probability, meet a company of people who have just left the town to +search for the mangled bodies of their relations; but, for Heaven’s sake, +sir, if you value your life, do not suffer an idle curiosity to lead you +over such dangerous regions, however picturesque their appearance.” + +I own I felt rather intimidated by so formidable a prospect, and was very +near abandoning my plan of crossing the mountains, and so go back again +and round about, the Lord knows where; but considering this step would be +quite unheroical, I resolved to attribute my fears to the gloom of the +moment, and the dejection it occasioned. It was almost nine o’clock +before my kind adviser ceased inspiring me with terrors; then, finding +myself at liberty, I retired to bed, not under the most agreeable +impressions; and after tossing and tumbling in the agitation of +tumultuous slumbers, I started up at seven in the morning of July 15th, +ordered the horses, and set forward, without further dilemmas. Though it +had thundered almost the whole night, the air was still clogged with +vapours, the mountains bathed in humid clouds, and the scene I had so +warmly admired no longer discernible. Proceeding along the edge of the +precipices I had been forewarned of, for about an hour, and escaping that +peril at least, we traversed the slopes of a rude, heathy hill, in +instantaneous expectation of foes and murderers. A misty rain prevented +us seeing above ten yards before us, and every uncouth oak or rocky +fragment we approached seemed lurking spies or gigantic enemies. One +time the murmur of the wind among invisible woods of beech, sounded like +the wail of distress; and at another the noise of a torrent we could not +discover, counterfeited the report of musquetry. In this suspicious +manner we journeyed through the forest which had so recently been the +scene of assaults and depredations. At length, after winding several +restless hours amongst its dreary avenues, we emerged into open daylight. +The sky cleared, a cultivated vale lay before us, and the evening sun, +gleaming bright through the vapours, cast a cheerful look upon some +corn-fields, and seemed to promise better times. A few minutes more +brought us safe to the village of Viesbaden, where we slept in peace and +tranquillity. + +_July_ 16_th_.—Our apprehensions entirely dispersed, we rose light and +refreshed from our slumbers, and passing through Mayence, Oppenheim, and +Worms, travelled gaily over the plain in which Mannheim is situated. The +sun set before we arrived there, and it was by the mild gleams of the +rising moon, that I first beheld the vast electoral palace, and those +long straight streets and neat white houses, which distinguish this +elegant capital from almost every other. + +Numbers of well-dressed people were amusing themselves with music and +fireworks in the squares and open spaces; other groups appeared +conversing in circles before their doors, and enjoying the serenity of +the evening. Almost every window bloomed with carnations; and we could +hardly cross a street without hearing the German flute. A scene of such +happiness and refinement contrasted in the most agreeable manner with the +dismal prospects we had left behind. No storms, no frightful chasms, +were here to alarm us, no ruffians or lawless plunderers. All around was +peace, security, and contentment in their most engaging attire. + +_July_ 17_th_.—Though all impatience to reach that delightful classic +region which already possesses, as I have often said, the better half of +my spirit, I could not think of leaving Mannheim unexplored; and +therefore resolved to give up the day to the halls and galleries of the +electoral palace. Those, which contain the cabinet of paintings and +sculptures in ivory, form a regular suite of nine immense apartments, +about three hundred and seventy-two feet in length, well-proportioned and +uniformly floored with inlaid wood. Each room has ample folding-doors +richly gilt and varnished. When seen in perspective these entrances have +the most magnificent effect imaginable. Nothing can give nobler ideas of +space than such an enfilade of saloons unencumbered by heavy furniture, +where the eyes range without interruption: I wandered alone from one to +the other, and was never wearied with contemplating the variety of +pictures which enliven the scene, and convey the highest idea of the +collector’s taste. When my curiosity was a little satisfied, I left this +amusing series of apartments with regret, visited the library which the +present Elector Palatine has formed, upon the same great scale that +characterizes his other collections, and, after viewing the rest of the +palace, saw the opera house, which may boast of having contained one of +the first bands in Europe: from thence I returned home in a very musical +humour. + +An excellent harpsichord seconded this disposition, which lasted me till +late in the evening; when growing drowsy, I yielded to the influence of +sleep, and was in an instant transported to a far more delightful palace +than that of the elector; where I expatiated in perfumed apartments with +yellow light, and conversed with none but Albano and Claude Lorrain, till +the beams of the morning sun entered my chamber, and forced my visiting +companions to fly murmuring to the shades. I cannot say but I was sorry +to leave Mannheim, though my acquaintance with it was entirely confined +to inanimate objects. The cheerful air and free range of the galleries +would be sufficient, for several days, for my amusement; as you know I +could people them with phantoms. Not many leagues out of town, lie the +famous gardens of Schweidsing. The weather being extremely warm, we were +glad to avail ourselves of their shades. There are a great many +fountains inclosed by thickets of shrubs, and cool alleys which lead to +arbours of trellis-work, festooned with nasturtiums and convolvuluses. +Several catalpas and sumachs in full flower gave considerable richness to +the scenery; and whilst we walked amongst them, a fresh breeze gently +waved their summits. The tall poplars and acacias, quivering with the +air, cast innumerable shadows on the intervening plats of greensward, +and, as they moved their branches, discovered other walks beyond, and +distant jets of water rising above their foliage, and sparkling in the +sun. After passing a multitude of shady avenues, terminated by temples +or groups of statues, we followed our guide through a kind of arched +bower to a little opening in the wood, neatly paved with different +coloured pebbles. On one side, appeared niches and alcoves, ornamented +with spars and polished marbles; on the other, an aviary; in front, a +superb pavilion, with baths, porticos, and cabinets, fitted up in the +most elegant and luxurious style. The song of exotic birds; the +freshness of the surrounding verdure heightened by falling streams; and +that dubious poetic light admitted through thick foliage, so agreeable +after the glare of a sultry day, detained me for some time in an alcove +reading Spenser, and imagining myself but a few paces removed from the +Idle Lake. I would fain have loitered an hour more in this enchanted +bower, had not the gardener, whose patience was quite exhausted, and who +had never heard of the Red-Cross Knight and his achievements, dragged me +away to a sunburnt, contemptible hillock, commanding the view of a +serpentine ditch, and decorated with the title of Jardin Anglois. Some +object like decayed limekilns and mouldering ovens, is disposed in an +amphitheatrical form, on the declivity of this tremendous eminence: and +there is to be ivy, and a cascade, and what not, as my conductor +observed. A glance was all I bestowed on this caricature upon English +gardens; I then went off in a huff at being chased from my bower, and +grumbled all the road to Entsweigen; where, to our misfortune, we lay +amidst hogs and vermin, who amply revenged my quarrels with their +country. + +_July_ 20_th_.—After travelling a post or two, we came in sight of a +green moor, with many insulated woods and villages; the Danube sweeping +majestically along, and the city of Ulm rising upon its banks. The +fields in its neighbourhood were overspread with cloths bleaching in the +sun, and waiting for barks which convey them down the great river, in ten +days, to Vienna, and from thence through Hungary, into the midst of the +Turkish Empire. I almost envied the merchants their voyage, and +descending to the edge of the stream, proffered my orisons to Father +Danube, beseeching him to remember me to the regions through which he +flows. I promised him an altar and solemn rites, should he grant my +request, and was very idolatrous, until the shadows lengthening over the +unlimited plains on his margin, reminded me that the sun would be shortly +sunk, and that I had still above fifteen miles to go. Gathering a purple +iris that grew upon the bank, I wore it to his honour; and have reason to +fancy my piety was rewarded, as not a fly or an insect dared to buzz +about me the whole evening. + +You never saw a brighter sky nor more glowing clouds than gilded our +horizon. The air was impregnated with the perfume of clover, and for ten +miles we beheld no other objects than smooth levels enamelled with +flowers, and interspersed with thickets of oak, beyond which appeared a +long series of mountains, that distance and the evening tinged with an +interesting azure. Such were the very spots for youthful games and +exercises, open spaces for tilts, and spreading shades to screen the +spectators. + +Father Lafiteau tells us, there are many such vast and flowery meads in +the interior of America, to which the roving tribes of Indians repair +once or twice in a century to settle the rights of the chase, and lead +their solemn dances; and so deep an impression do these assemblies leave +on the minds of the savages, that the highest ideas they entertain of +future felicity consist in the perpetual enjoyment of songs and dances +upon the green boundless lawns of their elysium. In the midst of these +visionary plains rises the abode of Aneantsic, encircled by choirs of +departed chieftains leaping in cadence to the mournful sound of spears as +they ring on the shell of the tortoise. Their favourite attendants, long +separated from them whilst on earth, are restored again in this ethereal +region, and skim freely over the vast level space; now hailing one group +of beloved friends, and now another. Mortals newly ushered by death into +this world of pure blue sky and boundless meads, see the long-lost +objects of their affection advancing across the lawn to meet them. +Flights of familiar birds, the purveyors of many an earthly chase, once +more attend their progress, whilst the shades of their faithful dogs seem +coursing each other below. Low murmurs and tinkling sounds fill the +whole region, and, as its new denizens proceed, increase in melody, till, +unable to resist the thrilling music, they spring forward in ecstasies to +join the eternal round. + +A share of this celestial transport seemed communicated to me whilst my +eyes wandered over the plain, which appeared to widen and extend in +proportion as the twilight prevailed. + +The dusky hour, favourable to conjurations, allowed me to believe the +spirits of departed friends not far removed from the clouds, which, to +all appearance, reposed at the extremity of the prospect, and tinted the +surface of the horizon with ruddy colours. This glow still lingered upon +the verge of the landscape, after the sun disappeared; and ’twas in those +peaceful moments, when no sound but the browsing of cattle reached me, +that I imagined benign looks were cast upon me from the golden vapours, +and I seemed to catch glimpses of faint forms moving, amongst them, which +were once so dear; and even thought my ears affected by well-known +voices, long silent upon earth. When the warm hues of the sky were +gradually fading, and the distant thickets began to assume a deeper and +more melancholy blue, I fancied a shape like Thisbe {133} shot swiftly +along; and, sometimes halting afar off, cast an affectionate look upon +her old master, that seemed to say, When you draw near the last +inevitable hour, and the pale countries of Aneantsic are stretched out +before you, I will precede your footsteps, and guide them safe through +the wild labyrinths which separate this world from yours. I was so +possessed with the ideas and so full of the remembrance of that poor, +affectionate creature, whose miserable end you were the witness of, that +I did not, for several minutes, perceive our arrival at Guntsberg. +Hurrying to bed, I seemed in my slumbers to pass that interdicted +boundary which divides our earth from the region of Indian happiness. +Thisbe ran nimbly before me; her white form glimmered amongst dusky +forests; she led me into an infinitely spacious plain, where I heard vast +multitudes discoursing upon events to come. What further passed must +never be revealed. I awoke in tears, and could hardly find spirits +enough to look around me, till we were driving through the midst of +Augsburg. + +_July_ 21_st_.—We dined and rambled about this renowned city till +evening. The colossal paintings on the walls of almost every +considerable building gave it a strange air, which pleases upon the score +of novelty. + +Having passed a number of streets decorated in this exotic manner, we +found ourselves suddenly before the public hall, by a noble statue of +Augustus, under whose auspices the colony was formed. Which way soever +we turned, our eyes met some remarkable edifice, or marble basin into +which several groups of sculptured river-gods pour a profusion of waters. +These stately fountains and bronze statues, the extraordinary size and +loftiness of the buildings, the towers rising in perspective, and the +Doric portal of the town-house, answered in some measure the idea +Montfaucon gives us of the scene of an ancient tragedy. Whenever a +pompous Flemish painter attempts a representation of Troy, and displays +in his background those streets of palaces described in the Iliad, +Augsburg, or some such city, may easily be traced. Sometimes a corner of +Antwerp discovers itself; and generally, above a Corinthian portico, +rises a Gothic spire. Just such a jumble may be viewed from the statue +of Augustus, under which I remained till the Concierge came, who was to +open the gates of the town-house, and show me its magnificent hall. + +I wished for you exceedingly when, ascending a flight of a hundred steps, +I entered it through a portal, supported by tall pillars and crowned with +a majestic pediment. Upon advancing, I discovered five more entrances +equally grand, with golden figures of guardian genii leaning over the +entablature; and saw, through a range of windows, each above thirty feet +high, and nearly level with the marble pavement, the whole city, with all +its roofs and spires, beneath my feet. The pillars, cornices, and panels +of this striking apartment are uniformly tinged with brown and gold; and +the ceiling, enriched with emblematical paintings and innumerable +canopies of carved work, casts a very magisterial shade. Upon the whole, +I should not be surprised at a burgomaster assuming a formidable dignity +in such a room. + +I must confess it had a somewhat similar effect upon me; and I descended +the flight of steps with as much pomposity as if a triumphal car waited +at my feet, or as if on the point of giving audience to the Queen of +Sheba. It happened to be a Saint’s day, and half the inhabitants of +Augsburg were gathered together in the opening before their hall; the +greatest numbers, especially the women, still exhibiting the very +identical dresses which Hollar engraved. My lofty gait imposed upon this +primitive assembly, which receded to give me passage with as much silent +respect as if I had really been the wise sovereign of Israel. When I got +home, an execrable supper was served up to my majesty; I scolded in an +unroyal style, and soon convinced myself I was no longer Solomon. + +_July_ 22_nd_.—Joy to the Electors of Bavaria! for planting such +extensive woods of fir in their dominions as shade over the chief part of +the road from Augsburg to Munich. Near the last-mentioned city, I cannot +boast of the scenery changing to advantage. Instead of flourishing woods +and verdure, we beheld a parched dreary flat, diversified by fields of +withering barley, and stunted avenues drawn formally across them; now and +then a stagnant pool, and sometimes a dunghill, by way of regale. +However, the wild rocks of the Tyrol terminate the view, and to them +imagination may fly, and walk amidst springs and lilies of her own +creation. I speak from authority, having had the pleasure of +anticipating an evening in this romantic style. + +Tuesday next is the grand fair, with horse-races and junketings: a piece +of news I was but too soon acquainted with; for the moment we entered the +town, good-natured creatures from all quarters advised us to get out of +it; since traders and harlequins had filled every corner of the place, +and there was not a lodging to be procured. The inns, to be sure, were +like hives of industrious animals sorting their merchandise, and +preparing their goods for sale. Yet, in spite of difficulties, we got +possession of a quiet apartment. + +_July_ 23_rd_.—We were driven in the evening to Nymphenburg, the +Elector’s country palace, whose bosquets, jets-d’eaux, and parterres are +the pride of the Bavarians. The principal platform is all of a glitter +with gilded Cupids and shining serpents spouting at every pore. Beds of +poppies, hollyhocks, scarlet lychnis, and the most flaming flowers, +border the edge of the walks, which extend till the perspective meets, +and swarm with ladies and gentlemen in parti-coloured raiment. The Queen +of Golconda’s gardens in a French opera are scarcely more gaudy and +artificial. Unluckily, too, the evening was fine, and the sun so +powerful that we were half roasted before we could cross the great avenue +and enter the thickets, which barely conceal a very splendid hermitage, +where we joined Mr. and Mrs. T., and a party of fashionable Bavarians. + +Amongst the ladies was Madame la Contesse, I forget who, a production of +the venerable Haslang, with her daughter, Madame de —, who has the honour +of leading the Elector in her chains. These goddesses stepping into a +car, vulgarly called a cariole, the mortals followed, and explored alley +after alley and pavilion after pavilion. Then, having viewed +Pagodenburg, which is, as they told me, all Chinese; and Marienburg, +which is most assuredly all tinsel; we paraded by a variety of fountains +in full squirt, and though they certainly did their best (for many were +set a-going on purpose), I cannot say I greatly admired them. + +The ladies were very gaily attired, and the gentlemen, as smart as +swords, bags, and pretty clothes could make them, looked exactly like the +fine people one sees represented in a coloured print. Thus we kept +walking genteelly about the orangery, till the carriage drew up and +conveyed us to Mr. T’s. + +Immediately after supper, we drove once more out of town, to a garden and +tea-room, where all degrees and ages dance jovially together till +morning. Whilst one party wheel briskly away in the valz, another amuse +themselves in a corner with cold meat and rhenish. That despatched, out +they whisk amongst the dancers, with an impetuosity and liveliness I +little expected to have found in Bavaria. After turning round and round, +with a rapidity that is quite inconceivable to an English dancer, the +music changes to a slower movement, and then follows a succession of +zig-zag minuets, performed by old and young, straight and crooked, noble +and plebeian, all at once, from one end of the room to the other. Tallow +candles snuffing and stinking, dishes changing, heads scratching, and all +sorts of performances going forward at the same moment; the flutes, +oboes, and bassoons snorting and grunting with peculiar emphasis; now +fast, now slow, just as Variety commands, who seems to rule the +ceremonial of this motley assembly, where every distinction of rank and +privilege is totally forgotten. Once a week, on Sundays that is to say, +the rooms are open, and Monday is generally somewhat advanced before they +are deserted. If good humour and coarse merriment are all that people +desire, here they are to be found in perfection, though at the expense of +toes and noses. Both these extremities of my person suffered most +cruelly; and I was not sorry to retire about one in the morning to a +purer atmosphere. + +_July_ 24_th_.—Custom condemned us to visit the palace, which glares with +looking-glass, gilding, and cut velvet, most sumptuously fringed and +spangled. The chapel, though small, is richer than anything Crœsus ever +possessed, let them say what they will. Not a corner but shines with +gold, diamonds, and scraps of martyrdom studded with jewels. I had the +delight of treading amethysts and the richest gems under foot, which, if +you recollect, Apuleius thinks such supreme felicity. Alas! I was quite +unworthy of the honour, and had much rather have trodden the turf of the +mountains. Mammon would never have taken his eyes off the pavement; mine +soon left the contemplation of it, and fixed on St. Peter’s thumb, +enshrined with a degree of elegance, and adorned by some malapert +enthusiast with several of the most delicate antique cameos I ever +beheld; the subjects, Ledas and sleeping Venuses, are a little too pagan, +one should think, for an apostle’s finger. + +From this precious repository we were conducted through the public garden +to a large hall, where part of the Sleitzom collection is piled up, till +a gallery can be finished for its reception. ’Twas a matter of great +favour to view, in this state, the pieces that compose it,—a very +imperfect one too, since some of the best were under operation. But I +would not upon any account have missed the sight of Rubens’s “Massacre of +the Innocents.” Such expressive horrors were never yet transferred to +canvas, and Moloch himself might have gazed at them with pleasure. + +After dinner we were led round the churches; and if you are as much tired +with reading my voluminous descriptions, as I was with the continual +repetition of altars and reliquaries, the Lord have mercy upon you! +However, your delivery draws near. The post is going out, and to-morrow +we shall begin to mount the cliffs of the Tyrol; but don’t be afraid of +any long-winded epistles from their summits: I shall be too well employed +in ascending them. Just now, as I have lain by a long while, I grow +sleek, and scribble on in mere wantonness of spirit. What excesses such +a correspondence is capable of, you will soon be able to judge. + +_July_ 25_th_.—The noise of the people thronging to the fair did not +allow me to slumber very long in the morning. When I got up, every +street was crowded with Jews and mountebanks, holding forth and driving +their bargains in all the energetic vehemence of the German tongue. Vast +quantities of rich merchandise glittered in the shops as we passed along +to the gates. Heaps of fruit and sweetmeats set half the grandams and +infants in the place a-cackling with felicity. + +Mighty glad was I to make my escape; and in about an hour or two, we +entered a wild tract of country, not unlike the skirts of a princely +park. A little farther on stands a cluster of cottages, where we stopped +to give our horses some bread, and were pestered with swarms of flies, +most probably journeying to Munich fair, there to feast upon sugared +tarts and bottle-noses. + +The next post brought us over hill and dale, grove and meadow, to a +narrow plain, watered by rivulets and surrounded by cliffs, under which +lies scattered the village of Wollrathshausen, consisting of several +cottages, built entirely of fir, with strange galleries hanging over the +way. Nothing can be neater than the carpentry of these simple edifices, +nor more solid than their construction; many of them looked as if they +had braved the torrents which fell from the mountains a century ago; and, +if one may judge from the hoary appearance of the inhabitants, here are +patriarchs who remember the Emperor Lewis of Bavaria. Orchards of +cherry-trees impend from the steeps above the village, which to our +certain knowledge produce no contemptible fruit. + +Having refreshed ourselves with their cooling juice, we struck into a +grove of pines, the tallest and most flourishing perhaps we ever beheld. +There seemed no end to these forests, save where little irregular spots +of herbage, fed by cattle, intervened. Whenever we gained an eminence it +was only to discover more ranges of dark wood, variegated with meadows +and glittering streams. White clover and a profusion of sweet-scented +flowers clothe their banks; above, waves the mountain-ash, glowing with +scarlet berries; and beyond, rise hills and rocks and mountains, piled +upon one another, and fringed with fir to their topmost acclivities. +Perhaps the Norwegian forests alone equal these in grandeur and extent. +Those which cover the Swiss highlands rarely convey such vast ideas. +There, the woods climb only half way up their ascents, and then are +circumscribed by snows: here, no boundaries are set to their progress, +and the mountains, from their bases to their summits, display rich +unbroken masses of vegetation. + +As we were surveying this prospect, a thick cloud, fraught with thunder, +obscured the transparence of the horizon, whilst flashes startled our +horses, whose snorts and stampings resounded through the woods. What +from the shade of the firs and the impending tempests, we travelled +several miles almost in total darkness. One moment the clouds began to +fleet, and a faint gleam promised serener hours, but the next all was +gloom and terror; presently a deluge of rain poured down upon the valley, +and in a short time the torrents, beginning to swell, raged with such +fury as to be with difficulty forded. Twilight drew on, just as we had +passed the most terrible; then ascending a steep hill under a mountain, +whose pines and birches rustled with the storm, we saw a little lake +below. A deep azure haze veiled its eastern shore, and lowering vapours +concealed the cliffs to the south; but over its western extremities a few +transparent clouds, the remains of the rays of a struggling sunset, were +suspended, which streamed on the surface of the waters, and tinged with +tender pink the brow of a verdant promontory. + +I could not help fixing myself on the banks of the lake for several +minutes, till this apparition was lost, and confounded with the shades of +night. Looking round, I shuddered at a craggy mountain, clothed in dark +forests and almost perpendicular, that was absolutely to be surmounted +before we could arrive at Wallersee. No house, not even a shed +appearing, we were forced to ascend the peak, and penetrate these awful +groves. + +Great praise is due to the directors of the roads across them, which, +considering their situation, are wonderfully fine. Mounds of stone +support the passage in some places; and, in others, it is hewn with +incredible labour through the solid rock. Beeches and pines of a hundred +feet high, darken the way with their gigantic branches, casting a chill +around, and diffusing a woody odour. As we advanced, in the thick shade, +amidst the spray of torrents, and heard their loud roar in the chasm +beneath, I could scarcely help thinking myself transported to the Grande +Chartreuse; and began to conceive hopes of once more beholding St. Bruno. +{140} But, though that venerable father did not vouchsafe an apparition, +or call to me again from the depths of the dells, he protected his votary +from nightly perils, and brought us to the banks of Wallersee Lake. We +saw lights gleam upon its shores, which directed us to a cottage where we +reposed after our toils, and were soon lulled to sleep by the fall of +distant waters. + +_July_ 26_th_.—The sun rose many hours before me, and when I got up was +spangling the surface of the lake, which expands between steeps of wood, +crowned by lofty crags and pinnacles. We had an opportunity of +contemplating this bold assemblage as we travelled on the banks of the +Meer, where it forms a bay sheltered by impending forests; the water, +tinged by their reflection with a deep cerulean, calm and tranquil. +Mountains of pine and beech rising above, close every outlet; and, no +village or spire peeping out of the foliage, impress an idea of more than +European solitude. I could contentedly have passed a summer’s moon in +these retirements, hollowed myself a canoe, and fished for sustenance. + +From the shore of Wallersee, our road led us straight through arching +groves, which the axe seems never to have violated, to the summit of a +rock covered with spurge-laurel, and worn by the course of torrents into +innumerable craggy forms. Beneath, lay extended a chaos of shattered +cliffs, with tall pines springing from their crevices, and rapid streams +hurrying between their intermingled trunks and branches. As yet, no hut +appeared, no mill, no bridge, no trace of human existence. + +After a few hours’ journey through the wilderness, we began to discover a +wreath of smoke; and presently the cottage from whence it arose, composed +of planks, and reared on the very brink of a precipice. Piles of cloven +spruce-fir were dispersed before the entrance, on a little spot of +verdure browsed by goats; near them sat an aged man with hoary whiskers, +his white locks tucked under a fur cap. Two or three beautiful children, +their hair neatly braided, played around him; and a young woman, dressed +in a short robe and Polish-looking bonnet, peeped out of a wicket window. + +I was so much struck with the exotic appearance of this sequestered +family, that, crossing a rivulet, I clambered up to their cottage and +begged some refreshment. Immediately there was a contention amongst the +children, who should be the first to oblige me. A little black-eyed girl +succeeded, and brought me an earthen jug full of milk, with crumbled +bread, and a platter of strawberries fresh picked from the bank. I +reclined in the midst of my smiling hosts, and spread my repast on the +turf: never could I be waited upon with more hospitable grace. The only +thing I wanted was language to express my gratitude; and it was this +deficiency which made me quit them so soon. The old man seemed visibly +concerned at my departure; and his children followed me a long way down +the rocks, talking in a dialect which passes all understanding, and +waving their hands to bid me adieu. + +I had hardly lost sight of them and regained my carriage before we +entered a forest of pines, to all appearance without bounds, of every age +and figure; some, feathered to the ground with flourishing branches; +others, decayed into shapes like Lapland idols. I can imagine few +situations more dreadful than to be lost at night amidst this confusion +of trunks, hollow winds whistling among the branches, and strewing their +cones below. Even at noonday, I thought we should never have found our +way out. + +At last, having descended a long avenue, endless perspectives opening on +either side, we emerged into a valley bounded by swelling hills, divided +into agreeable shady inclosures, where many herds were grazing. A +rivulet flows along the pastures beneath; and after winding through the +village of Boidou, loses itself in a narrow pass amongst the cliffs and +precipices which rise above the cultivated slopes, and frame in this +happy pastoral region. All the plain was in sunshine, the sky blue, and +the heights illuminated, except one rugged peak with spires of rock, +shaped not unlike the views I have seen of Sinai, and wrapped, like that +sacred mount, in clouds and darkness. At the base of this tremendous +mass, lies a neat hamlet called Mittenvald, surrounded by thickets and +banks of verdure, and watered by frequent springs, whose sight and +murmurs were so reviving in the midst of a sultry day, that we could not +think of leaving their vicinity, but remained at Mittenvald the whole +evening. + +Our inn had long airy galleries, and a pleasant balcony fronting the +mountain. In one of these we dined upon trout fresh from the rills, and +cherries just culled from the orchards that cover the slopes above. The +clouds were dispersing, and the topmost peak half visible, before we +ended our repast. Every moment discovering some inaccessible cliff or +summit, shining through the mists, and tinted by the sun with pale golden +colours. These appearances filled me with such delight and with such a +train of romantic associations, that I left the table and ran to an open +field beyond the huts and gardens, to gaze in solitude and catch the +vision before it dissolved away. You, if any human being is able, may +conceive true ideas of these glowing vapours sailing over the pointed +rocks; and brightening them in their passage with amber light. + +When all were faded and lost in the blue ether, I had time to look around +me and notice the mead in which I was standing. Here, clover covered its +surface; there, crops of grain; further on, beds of herbs and the +sweetest flowers. An amphitheatre of hills and rocks, broken into a +variety of glens and precipices, guards the plain from intrusion, and +opens a course for several clear rivulets, which, after gurgling amidst +loose stones and fragments, fall down the steeps, and are concealed and +quieted in the herbage of the vale. + +A cottage or two peep out of the woods that hang over the waterfalls; and +on the brow of the hills above, appears a series of eleven little +chapels, uniformly built. I followed the narrow path that leads to them, +on the edge of the eminences, and met a troop of beautiful peasants, all +of the name of Anna (for it was her saintship’s day), going to pay their +devotions, severally, at these neat white fanes. There were faces that +Guercino would not have disdained copying, with braids of hair the +softest and most luxuriant I ever beheld. Some had wreathed it simply +with flowers, other with rolls of a thin linen (manufactured in the +neighbourhood), and disposed it with a degree of elegance one should not +have expected on the cliffs of the Tyrol. + +Being arrived, they knelt all together at the first chapel, on the steps, +a minute or two, whispered a short prayer, and then dispersed each to her +fane. Every little building had now its fair worshipper, and you may +well conceive how much such figures, scattered about the landscape, +increased its charms. Notwithstanding the fervour of their adorations +(for at intervals they sighed and beat their white bosoms with energy), +several bewitching profane glances were cast at me as I passed by. Don’t +be surprised, then, if I became a convert to idolatry in so amiable a +form, and worshipped St. Anna on the score of her namesakes. + +When got beyond the last chapel, I began to hear the roar of a cascade in +a thick wood of beech and chestnut that clothes the steeps of a wide +fissure in the rock. My ear soon guided me to its entrance, which was +marked by a shed encompassed with mossy fragments, and almost concealed +by bushes of the caper-plant in full red bloom. Amongst these I +struggled, till, reaching a goat-track, it conducted me, on the brink of +the foaming waters, to the very depths of the cliff, whence issues a +stream which dashes impetuously down, strikes against a ledge of rocks, +and sprinkles the impending thicket with dew. Big drops hung on every +spray, and glittered on the leaves partially gilt by the rays of the +declining sun, whose mellow hues softened the summits of the cliffs, and +diffused a repose, a divine calm, over this deep retirement, which +inclined me to imagine it the extremity of the earth, and the portal of +some other region of existence; some happy world beyond the dark groves +of pine, the caves and awful mountains, where the river takes its source! +I hung eagerly on the gulph, impressed with this idea, and fancied myself +listening to a voice that bubbled up with the waters; then looked into +the abyss and strained my eyes to penetrate its gloom, but all was dark +and unfathomable as futurity! Awakening from my reverie, I felt the +damps of the water chill my forehead, and ran shivering out of the vale +to avoid them. A warmer atmosphere, that reigned in the meads I had +wandered across before, tempted me to remain a good while longer, +collecting the wild pinks with which they are strewed in profusion, and a +species of thyme scented like myrrh. Whilst I was thus employed, a +confused murmur struck my ear, and, on turning towards a cliff, backed by +the woods from whence the sound seemed to proceed, forth issued a herd of +goats, hundreds after hundreds, skipping down the steeps: then followed +two shepherd boys, gamboling together as they drove their creatures +along: soon after, the dog made his appearance, hunting a stray heifer +which brought up the rear. I followed them with my eyes till lost in the +windings of the valley, and heard the tinkling of their bells die +gradually away. Now the last blush of crimson left the summit of Sinai, +inferior mountains being long since cast in deep blue shades. The +village was already hushed when I regained it, and in a few moments I +followed its example. + +_July_ 27_th_.—We pursued our journey to Inspruck, through the wildest +scenes of wood and mountain that were ever traversed, the rocks now +beginning to assume a loftier and more majestic appearance, and to +glisten with snows. I had proposed passing a day or two at Inspruck, +visiting the castle of Ambras, and examining Count Eysenberg’s cabinet, +enriched with the rarest productions of the mineral kingdom, and a +complete collection of the moths and flies peculiar to the Tyrol; but, +upon my arrival, the azure of the skies and the brightness of the +sunshine inspired me with an irresistible wish of hastening to Italy. I +was now too near the object of my journey, to delay possession any longer +than absolutely necessary; so, casting a transient look on Maximilian’s +tomb, and the bronze statues of Tyrolese Counts and worthies, solemnly +ranged in the church of the Franciscans, set immediately off. + +We crossed a broad noble street, terminated by a triumphal arch, and were +driven along the road to the foot of a mountain waving with fields of +corn, and variegated with wood and vineyards, encircling lawns of the +finest verdure, scattered over with white houses glistening in the sun. +Upon ascending the mount, and beholding a vast range of prospects of a +similar character, I almost repented my impatience, and looked down with +regret upon the cupolas and steeples we were leaving behind. But the +rapid succession of lovely and romantic scenes soon effaced the former +from my memory. + +Our road, the smoothest in the world (though hewn in the bosom of rocks), +by its sudden turns and windings, gave us, every instant, opportunities +of discovering new villages, and forests rising beyond forests; green +spots in the midst of wood, high above on the mountains, and cottages +perched on the edge of promontories. Down, far below, in the chasm, +amidst a confusion of pines and fragments of stone, rages the torrent +Inn, which fills the country far and wide with a perpetual murmur. +Sometimes we descended to its brink, and crossed over high bridges; +sometimes mounted half-way up the cliffs, till its roar and agitation +became, through distance, inconsiderable. + +After a long ascent, the shades of evening reposing in the valleys, and +the upland snows still tinged with a vivid red, we reached Schönberg, a +village well worthy of its appellation: and then, twilight drawing over +us, began to descend. We could now but faintly discover the opposite +mountains, veined with silver rills, when we came once more to the banks +of the Inn. This turbulent stream accompanied us all the way to +Steinach, and broke by its continual roar the stillness of the night, +which had finished half its course before we were settled to rest. + +_July_ 28_th_.—I rose early to scent the fragrance of the vegetation, +bathed in a shower which had lately fallen, and looking around me, saw +nothing but crags hanging over crags, and the rocky shores of the stream, +still dark with the shade of the mountains. The small opening in which +Steinach is situated, terminates in a gloomy strait, scarce leaving room +for the road and the torrent, which does not understand being thwarted, +and will force its way, let the pines grow ever so thick, or the rocks be +ever so considerable. + +Notwithstanding the forbidding air of this narrow dell, Industry has +contrived to enliven its steeps with habitations, to raise water by means +of a wheel, and to cover the surface of the rocks with soil. By this +means large crops of oats and flax are produced, and most of the huts +have gardens adjoining, which are filled with poppies, seeming to thrive +in this parched situation. + + “Urit enim lini campum seges, urit avenæ, + Urunt Lethæo perfusa papavera somno.” + +The farther we advanced in the dell, the larger were the plantations +which discovered themselves. For what purpose these gaudy flowers meet +with such encouragement, I had neither time nor language to inquire; the +mountaineers stuttering a gibberish unintelligible even to Germans. +Probably opium is extracted from them; or, perhaps, if you love a +conjecture, Morpheus has transferred his abode from the Cimmerians, and +has perceived a cavern somewhere or other in the recesses of these +endless mountains. Poppies, you know, in poetic travels, always denote +the skirts of his soporific reign, and I don’t remember a region better +calculated for undisturbed repose than the narrow clefts and gullies +which run up amongst these rocks, lost in vapours impervious to the sun, +and moistened by rills and showers, whose continual tricklings inspire a +drowsiness not easily to be resisted. Add to these circumstances the +waving of the pines, with the hum of bees seeking their food in the +crevices, and you will have as sleepy a region as that in which Spenser +and Ariosto have placed the nodding deity. + +At present, I must confess, I should not dislike submitting to his +empire, for a few months or years, just as it might happen, whilst Europe +is distracted by demons of revenge and war; whilst they are strangling at +Venice, and tearing each other to pieces in unhappy London; whilst Etna +and Vesuvius give signs of uncommon wrath; America welters in her blood; +and almost every quarter of the globe is filled with carnage and +devastation. This is the moment to humble ourselves before the God of +Sleep; to beseech him to open his dusky portals; and admit us into the +repose of his retired kingdom. If you are inclined to become a +suppliant, hasten to the Tyrol, and we will search together about the +mountains, traverse the poppy-meads, and look into every chasm and +fissure that excludes daylight, in hopes of discovering the mansion of +repose. Then when we have found this corner (or I think our search will +be successful) Morpheus will give us an approving nod, and beckon us in +silence to couch, where, soon lulled by the murmurs of the place, we +shall sink into oblivion and tranquillity. But we may as well keep our +eyes open for the present, till we have made this important discovery, +and look at the beautiful country round Brixen, whither I arrived in the +cool of the evening, and breathed the freshness of a garden, immediately +beneath my window. The thrushes, warbling amongst its shades, saluted +me, the moment I awoke next morning. + +_July_ 29_th_.—We proceeded over fertile mountains to Bolsano. Here +first I noticed the rocks cut into terraces, thick set with melons and +Indian corn; gardens of fig-trees and pomegranates hanging over walls, +clustered with fruit; amidst them, a little pleasant cot, shaded by +cypresses. In the evening we perceived several further indications of +approaching Italy; and after sunset the Adige, rolling its full tide +between precipices, which looked awful in the dusk. Myriads of +fire-flies sparkled amongst the shrubs on the bank. I traced the course +of these exotic insects by their blue light, now rising to the summits of +the trees, now sinking to the ground and associating with vulgar +glow-worms. We had opportunities enough to remark their progress, since +we travelled all night; such being my impatience to reach the promised +land! + +Morning dawned just as we saw Trent dimly before us. I slept a few +hours, then set out again (July 30th), after the heats were in some +degree abated, and leaving Bergine, where the peasants were feasting +before their doors, in their holiday dresses, with red pinks stuck in +their ears instead of rings, and their necks surrounded with coral of the +same colour, we came through a woody valley to the banks of a lake, +filled with the purest and most transparent water, which loses itself in +shady creeks, amongst hills robed with verdure from their bases to their +summits. + +The shores present one continual shrubbery, interspersed with knots of +larches and slender almonds, starting from the underwood. A cornice of +rock runs round the whole, except where the trees descend to the very +brink, and dip their boughs in the water. + +It was five o’clock when I caught the sight of this unsuspected lake, and +the evening shadows stretched nearly across it. Gaining a very rapid +ascent, we looked down upon its placid bosom, and saw several airy peaks +rising above the tufted foliage of the groves around. I quitted the +contemplation of them with regret, and, in a few hours, arrived at Borgo +di Volsugano, the scenes of the lake still present before the eye of my +fancy. + +_July_ 31_st_.—My heart beat quick when I saw some hills, not very +distant, which I was told lay in the Venetian State, and I thought an +age, at least, had elapsed before we were passing their base. The road +was never formed to delight an impatient traveller; loose pebbles and +rolling stones render it, in the highest degree, tedious and jolting. I +should not have spared my execrations, had it not traversed a picturesque +valley, overgrown with juniper, and strewed with fragments of rock, +precipitated, long since, from the surrounding eminences, blooming with +cyclamens. + +I clambered up several of these crags, + + “fra gli odoriferi ginepri,” + +to gather the flowers I have just mentioned, and found them deliciously +scented. Fratillarias, and the most gorgeous flies, many of which I here +noticed for the first time, were fluttering about and expanding their +wings to the sun. There is no describing the numbers I beheld, nor their +gaily varied colouring. I could not find in my heart to destroy their +felicity; to scatter their bright plumage and snatch them for ever from +the realms of light and flowers. Had I been less compassionate, I should +have gained credit with that respectable corps, the torturers of +butterflies; and might, perhaps, have enriched their cabinets with some +unknown captives. However, I left them imbibing the dews of heaven, in +free possession of their native rights; and having changed horses at +Tremolano, entered at length my long-desired Italy. + +The pass is rocky and tremendous, guarded by a fortress (Covalo), in +possession of the Empress Queen, and only fit, one should think, to be +inhabited by her eagles. There is no attaining this exalted hold but by +the means of a cord let down many fathoms by the soldiers, who live in +dens and caverns, which serve also as arsenals, and magazines for powder; +whose mysteries I declined prying into, their approach being a little too +aërial for my earthly frame. A black vapour, tinging their entrance, +completed the terror of the prospect, which I shall never forget. + +For two or three leagues it continued much in the same style; cliffs, +nearly perpendicular, on both sides, and the Brenta foaming and +thundering below. Beyond, the rocks began to be mantled with vines and +gardens. Here and there a cottage shaded with mulberries made its +appearance, and we often discovered, on the banks of the river, ranges of +white buildings, with courts and awnings, beneath which vast numbers were +employed in manufacturing silk. As we advanced, the stream gradually +widened, and the rocks receded; woods were more frequent and cottages +thicker strown. + +About five in the evening, we had left the country of crags and +precipices, of mists and cataracts, and were entering the fertile +territory of the Bassanese. It was now I beheld groves of olives, and +vines clustering the summits of the tallest elms; pomegranates in every +garden, and vases of citron and orange before almost every door. The +softness and transparency of the air soon told me I was arrived in +happier climates; and I felt sensations of joy and novelty run through my +veins, upon beholding this smiling land of groves and verdure stretched +out before me. A few glooming vapours, I can hardly call them clouds, +rested upon the extremities of the landscape; and, through their medium, +the sun cast an oblique and dewy ray. Peasants were returning homeward +from the cultivated hillocks and corn-fields, singing as they went, and +calling to each other over the hills; whilst the women were milking goats +before the wickets of the cottages, and preparing their country fare. + +I left them enjoying it, and soon beheld the ancient ramparts and +cypresses of Bassano; whose classic appearance recalled the memory of +former times, and answered exactly the ideas I had pictured to myself of +Italian edifices. Though encompassed by walls and turrets, neither +soldiers nor custom-house officers start out from their concealment, to +question and molest a weary traveller, for such are the blessings of the +Venetian State, at least of the Terra Firma provinces, that it does not +contain, I believe, above four regiments. Istria, Dalmatia, and the +maritime frontiers, are more formidably guarded, as they touch, you know, +the whiskers of the Turkish empire. + +Passing under a Doric gateway, we crossed the chief part of the town in +the way to our locanda, pleasantly situated, and commanding a level +green, where people walk and eat ices by moonlight. On the right, the +Franciscan church and convent, half hid in the religious gloom of pine +and cypress; to the left, a perspective of walls and towers rising from +the turf, and marking it, when I arrived, with long shadows; in front, +where the lawn terminates, meadow, wood, and garden run quite to the base +of the mountains. + +Twilight coming on, this beautiful spot swarmed with people, sitting in +circles upon the grass, refreshing themselves with cooling liquors or +lounging upon the bank beneath the towers. They looked so free and happy +that I longed to be acquainted with them; and by the interposition of a +polite Venetian (who, though a perfect stranger, showed me the most +engaging marks of attention), was introduced to a group of the principal +inhabitants. Our conversation ended in a promise to meet the next +evening at a country house about a league from Bassano, and then to +return together and sing to the praise of Pacchierotti, their idol, as +well as mine. + +You can have no idea what pleasure we mutually found in being of the same +faith, and believing in one singer; nor can you imagine what effects that +musical divinity produced at Padua, where he performed a few years ago, +and threw his audience into such raptures, that it was some time before +they recovered. One in particular, a lady of distinction, fainted away +the instant she caught the pathetic accents of his voice, and was near +dying a martyr to its melody. La Contessa Roberti, who sings in the +truest taste, gave me a detail of the whole affair. “Egli ha fatto +veramente un fanatismo a Padua,” was her expression. I assured her we +were not without idolatry in England, upon his account; but that in this, +as well as in other articles of belief, there were many abominable +heretics. + +_August_ 1_st_.—The whole morning not a soul stirred who could avoid it. +Those who were so active and lively the night before, were now stretched +languidly upon their couches. Being to the full as idly disposed, I sat +down and wrote some of this dreaming epistle; then feasted upon figs and +melons; then got under the shade of the cypress, and slumbered till +evening, only waking to dine, and take some ice. + +The sun declining apace, I hastened to my engagement at Mosolente (for so +is the villa called), placed on a verdant hill encircled by others as +lovely, and consisting of three light pavilions connected by porticos: +just such as we admire in the fairy scenes of an opera. A vast flight of +steps leads to the summit, where Signora Roberti and her friends received +me with a grace and politeness that can never want a place in my memory. +We rambled over all the apartments of this agreeable edifice, +characterised by airiness and simplicity. The pavement incrusted with a +composition as cool and polished as marble; the windows, doors, and +balconies adorned with silvered, iron work, commanding scenes of meads +and woodlands that extend to the shores of the Adriatic; spires and +cypresses rising above the levels; and the hazy mountains beyond Padua, +diversifying the expanse, form altogether a landscape which the elegant +imagination of Horizonti never exceeded. Beyond the villa, a tumble of +hillocks present themselves in a variety of forms, with dips and hollows +between, scattered over with leafy trees and vines dangling in continued +garlands. + +I gazed on this rural view till it faded in the dusk; then returning to +Bassano, repaired to an illuminated hall, and had the felicity of hearing +La Signora Roberti sing the very air which had excited such transport at +Padua. As soon as she had ended, and that I could hear no more those +affecting sounds, which had held me silent and almost breathless for +several moments, a band of various instruments stationed in the open +street began a lively symphony, which would have delighted me at any +other time; but now, I wished them a thousand leagues away, so melancholy +an impression did the air I had been listening to leave on my mind. + +At midnight I took leave of my obliging hosts, who were just setting out +for Padua. They gave me a thousand kind invitations, and I hope some +future day to accept them. + +_August_ 2_nd_.—Our route to Venice lay winding about the variegated +plains I had surveyed from Mosolente; and after dining at Treviso we came +in two hours and a half to Mestre, between grand villas and gardens +peopled with statues. Embarking our baggage at the last-mentioned place, +we stepped into a gondola, whose even motion was very agreeable after the +jolts of a chaise. Stretched beneath the awning, I enjoyed at my ease +the freshness of the gales, and the sight of the waters. We were soon +out of the canal of Mestre, terminated by an isle which contains a cell +dedicated to the Holy Virgin, peeping out of a thicket from whence spire +up two tall cypresses. Its bells tingled as we passed along and dropped +some paolis into a net tied at the end of a pole stretched out to us for +that purpose. + +As soon as we had doubled the cape of this diminutive island, an azure +expanse of sea opened to our view, the domes and towers of Venice rising +from its bosom. Now we began to distinguish Murano, St. Michele, St. +Giorgio in Alga, and several other islands, detached from the grand +cluster, which I hailed as old acquaintances; innumerable prints and +drawings having long since made their shapes familiar. Still gliding +forward, the sun casting his last gleams across the waves, and reddening +the different towers, we every moment distinguished some new church or +palace in the city, suffused with the evening rays, and reflected with +all their glow of colouring from the surface of the waters. + +The air was still; the sky cloudless; a faint wind just breathing upon +the deep, lightly bore its surface against the steps of a chapel in the +island of Saint Secondo, and waved the veil before its portal, as we +rowed by and coasted the walls of its garden, overhung with fig-trees and +topped with Italian pines. The convent discovers itself through their +branches, built in a style somewhat morisco, and level with the sea, +except where the garden intervenes. + +Here, meditation may indulge her reveries in the midst of the surges, and +walk in cloisters, alone vocal with the whispers of the pine. I passed +this consecrated spot soon after sunset, when daylight was expiring in +the west, and when the distant woods of Fusina were lost in the haze of +the horizon. + +We were now drawing very near the city, and a confused hum began to +interrupt the evening stillness; gondolas were continually passing and +repassing, and the entrance of the Canal Reggio, with all its stir and +bustle, lay before us. Our gondoliers turned with much address through a +crowd of boats and barges that blocked up the way, and rowed smoothly by +the side of a broad pavement, covered with people in all dresses and of +all nations. + +Leaving the Palazzo Pesaro, a noble structure with two rows of arcades +and a superb rustic, behind, we were soon landed before the Leon Bianco, +which being situated in one of the broadest parts of the grand canal, +commands a most striking assemblage of buildings. I have no terms to +describe the variety of pillars, of pediments, of mouldings, and +cornices, some Grecian, others Saracenical, that adorn these edifices, of +which the pencil of Canaletti conveys so perfect an idea as to render all +verbal description superfluous. At one end of this grand perspective +appears the Rialto; the sweep of the canal conceals the other. + +The rooms of our hotel are as spacious and cheerful as I could desire; a +lofty hall, or rather gallery, painted with grotesque in a very good +style, perfectly clean, floored with the stucco composition I have +mentioned above, divides the house, and admits a refreshing current of +air. Several windows near the ceiling look into this vast apartment, +which serves in lieu of a court, and is rendered perfectly luminous by a +glazed arcade, thrown open to catch the breezes. Through it I passed to +a balcony which impends over the canal, and is twined round with plants +forming a green festoon springing from two large vases of orange-trees +placed at each end. Here I established myself to enjoy the cool, and +observe, as well as the dusk would permit, the variety of figures +shooting by in their gondolas. + +As night approached, innumerable tapers glimmered through the awnings +before the windows. Every boat had its lantern, and the gondolas moving +rapidly along were followed by tracks of light, which gleamed and played +upon the waters. I was gazing at these dancing fires when the sounds of +music were wafted along the canals, and as they grew louder and louder, +an illuminated barge, filled with musicians, issued from the Rialto, and +stopping under one of the palaces, began a serenade, which was clamorous +and suspended all conversation in the galleries and porticos; till, +rowing slowly away, it was heard no more. The gondoliers catching the +air, imitated its cadences, and were answered by others at a distance, +whose voices, echoed by the arch of the bridge, acquired a plaintive and +interesting tone. I retired to rest, full of the sound; and long after I +was asleep, the melody seemed to vibrate in my ear. + +_August_ 3_rd_.—It was not five o’clock before I was aroused by a loud +din of voices and splashing of water under my balcony. Looking out, I +beheld the grand canal so entirely covered with fruits and vegetables, on +rafts and in barges, that I could scarcely distinguish a wave. Loads of +grapes, peaches, and melons arrived, and disappeared in an instant, for +every vessel was in motion; and the crowds of purchasers hurrying from +boat to boat, formed one of the liveliest pictures imaginable. Amongst +the multitudes, I remarked a good many whose dress and carriage announced +something above the common rank; and upon inquiry I found they were noble +Venetians, just come from their casinos, and met to refresh themselves +with fruit, before they retired to sleep for the day. + +Whilst I was observing them, the sun began to colour the balustrades of +the palaces, and the pure exhilarating air of the morning drawing me +abroad, I procured a gondola, laid in my provision of bread and grapes, +and was rowed under the Rialto, down the grand canal, to the marble steps +of S. Maria della Salute, erected by the Senate in performance of a vow +to the Holy Virgin, who begged off a terrible pestilence in 1630. I +gazed, delighted with its superb frontispiece and dome, relieved by a +clear blue sky. To criticize columns or pediments of the different +façades, would be time lost; since one glance upon the worst view that +has been taken of them, conveys a far better idea than the most elaborate +description. The great bronze portal opened whilst I was standing on the +steps which lead to it, and discovered the interior of the dome, where I +expatiated in solitude; no mortal appearing except an old priest who +trimmed the lamps, and muttered a prayer before the high altar, still +wrapped in shadows. The sunbeams began to strike against the windows of +the cupola just as I left the church, and was wafted across the waves to +the spacious platform in front of St. Giorgio Maggiore, by far the most +perfect and beautiful edifice my eyes ever beheld. + +When my first transport was a little subsided, and I had examined the +graceful design of each particular ornament, and united the just +proportion and grand effect of the whole in my mind, I planted my +umbrella on the margin of the sea, and reclining under its shade, my feet +dangling over the waters, viewed the vast range of palaces, of porticos, +of towers, opening on every side and extending out of sight. The Doge’s +residence and the tall columns at the entrance of the place of St. Mark, +form, together with the arcades of the public library, the lofty +Campanile and the cupolas of the ducal church, one of the most striking +groups of buildings that art can boast of. To behold at one glance these +stately fabrics, so illustrious in the records of former ages, before +which, in the flourishing times of the republic, so many valiant chiefs +and princes have landed, loaded with the spoils of different nations, was +a spectacle I had long and ardently desired. I thought of the days of +Frederic Barbarossa, when looking up the piazza of St. Mark, along which +he marched in solemn procession, to cast himself at the feet of Alexander +the Third, and pay a tardy homage to St. Peter’s successor. Here were no +longer those splendid fleets that attended his progress; one solitary +galeass was all I beheld, anchored opposite the palace of the Doge, and +surrounded by crowds of gondolas, whose sable hues contrasted strongly +with its vermilion oars and shining ornaments. A party-coloured +multitude was continually shifting from one side of the piazza to the +other; whilst senators and magistrates in long black robes were already +arriving to fill their respective charges. + +I contemplated the busy scene from my peaceful platform, where nothing +stirred but aged devotees creeping to their devotions; and, whilst I +remained thus calm and tranquil, heard the distant buzz and rumour of the +town. Fortunately a length of waves rolled between me and its tumults; +so that I ate my grapes, and read Metastasio, undisturbed by +officiousness or curiosity. When the sun became too powerful, I entered +the nave, and applauded the genius of Palladio. + +After I had admired the masterly structure of the roof and the lightness +of its arches, my eyes naturally directed themselves to the pavement of +white and ruddy marble, polished, and reflecting like a mirror the +columns which rise from it. Over this I walked to a door that admitted +me into the principal quadrangle of the convent, surrounded by a cloister +supported on Ionic pillars, beautifully proportioned. A flight of stairs +opens into the court, adorned with balustrades and pedestals, sculptured +with elegance truly Grecian. This brought me to the refectory, where the +chef-d’œuvre of Paul Veronese, representing the marriage of Cana in +Galilee, was the first object that presented itself. I never beheld so +gorgeous a group of wedding garments before; there is every variety of +fold and plait that can possibly be imagined. The attitudes and +countenances are more uniform, and the guests appear a very genteel, +decent sort of people, well used to the mode of their times and +accustomed to miracles. + +Having examined this fictitious repast, I cast a look on a long range of +tables covered with very excellent realities, which the monks were coming +to devour with energy, if one might judge from their appearance. These +sons of penitence and mortification possess one of the most spacious +islands of the whole cluster, a princely habitation, with gardens and +open porticos, that engross every breath of air; and, what adds not a +little to the charms of their abode, is the liberty of making excursions +from it, whenever they have a mind. + +The republic, wisely jealous of ecclesiastical influence, connives at +these amusing rambles, and, by encouraging the liberty of monks and +churchmen, prevents their appearing too sacred and important in the eyes +of the people, who have frequent proofs of their being mere flesh and +blood, and that of the frailest composition. Had the rest of Italy been +of the same opinion, and profited as much by Fra Paolo’s maxims, some of +its fairest fields would not, at this moment, lie uncultivated, and its +ancient spirit might have revived. However, I can scarcely think the +moment far distant, when it will assert its natural prerogatives, awake +from its ignoble slumber, and look back upon the tiara, with all its host +of idle fears and scaring phantoms, as the offspring of a distempered +dream. Scarce a sovereign supports any longer this vain illusion, except +the old woman of Hungary, and as soon as her dim eyes are closed we shall +probably witness great events. {156} + +Full of prophecies and bodings, I moved slowly out of the cloisters; and, +gaining my gondola, arrived, I know not how, at the flights of steps +which lead to the Redenptore, a structure so simple and elegant, that I +thought myself entering an antique temple, and looked about for the +statue of the God of Delphi, or some other graceful divinity. A huge +crucifix of bronze soon brought me to times present. + +The charm being thus dissolved, I began to perceive the shapes of rueful +martyrs peeping out of the niches around, and the bushy beards of +Capuchin friars wagging before the altars. These good fathers had +decorated their church, according to custom, with orange and citron +trees, placed between the pilasters of the arcades; and on grand +festivals, it seems, they turn the whole church into a bower, strew the +pavement with leaves, and festoon the dome with flowers. + +I left them occupied with their plants and their devotions. It was +midday, and I begged to be rowed to some woody island, where I might dine +in shade and tranquillity. My gondoliers shot off in an instant; but, +though they went at a very rapid rate, I wished to fly faster, and +getting into a bark with six oars, swept along the waters, soon left the +Zecca and San Marco behind; and, launching into the plains of shining +sea, saw turret after turret, and isle after isle, fleeting before me. A +pale greenish light ran along the shores of the distant continent, whose +mountains seemed to catch the motion of my boat, and to fly with equal +celerity. + +I had not much time to contemplate the beautiful effects on the +waters—the emerald and purple hues which gleamed along their surface. +Our prow struck, foaming, against the walls of the Carthusian garden, +before I recollected where I was, or could look attentively around me. +Permission being obtained, I entered this cool retirement, and putting +aside with my hands the boughs of fig-trees and pomegranates, got under +an ancient bay, near which several tall pines lift themselves up to the +breezes. I listened to the conversation they held, with a wind just +flown from Greece, and charged, as well as I could understand this airy +language, with many affectionate remembrances from their relations on +Mount Ida. + +I reposed amidst bay leaves, fanned by a constant air, till it pleased +the fathers to send me some provisions, with a basket of fruit and wine. +Two of them would wait upon me, and ask ten thousand questions about Lord +George Gordon, and the American war. I, who was deeply engaged with the +winds, and fancied myself hearing these rapid travellers relate their +adventures, wished my interrogators in purgatory, and pleaded ignorance +of the Italian language. This circumstance extricated me from my +difficulties, and procured me a long interval of repose. + +The rustling of the pines had the same effect as the murmurs of other old +story-tellers, and I slept undisturbed till the people without, in the +boat (who wondered not a little, I dare say, what the deuce was become of +me within), began a sort of chorus in parts, full of such plaintive +modulation, that I still thought myself under the influence of a dream, +and, half in this world and half in the other, believed, like the heroes +of Fingal, that I had caught the music of the spirits of the hill. + +When I was thoroughly convinced of the reality of these sounds, I moved +towards the shore from whence they proceeded: a glassy sea lay full +before me; no gale ruffled the expanse; every breath was subsided, and I +beheld the sun go down in all its sacred calm. You have experienced the +sensations this moment inspires; imagine what they must have been in such +a scene, and accompanied with a melody so simple and pathetic. I stepped +into my boat, and instead of encouraging the speed of the gondoliers, +begged them to abate their ardour, and row me lazily home. They +complied, and we were near an hour reaching the platform before the ducal +palace, thronged as usual with a variety of nations. I mixed a moment +with the crowd; then directed my steps to the great mosque,—I ought to +say the church of St. Mark; but really its cupolas, slender pinnacles, +and semicircular arches, have so oriental an appearance, as to excuse +this appellation. I looked a moment at the four stately coursers of +bronze and gold that adorn the chief portal, and then took in, at one +glance, the whole extent of the square, with its towers and standards. +So noble an assemblage never met my eyes. I envied the good fortune of +Petrarch, who describes, in one of his letters, a tournament held in this +princely opening. + +Many are the festivals which have been here celebrated. When Henry the +Third left Poland to mount the throne of France, he passed through +Venice, and found the republic waiting to receive him in their famous +square, which by means of an awning stretched from the balustrades of +opposite palaces, was metamorphosed into a vast saloon, sparkling with +artificial stars, and spread with the richest carpets of the East. What +a magnificent idea! The ancient Romans, in the zenith of power and +luxury, never conceived a greater. It is to them the Venetians are +indebted for the hint, since we read of the Coliseo and Pompey’s theatre +being sometimes covered with transparent canvas, to defend the spectators +from the heat or sudden rain, and to tint the scene with soft agreeable +colours, like the hues of the declining sun. + +Having enjoyed the general perspective of the piazza, I began to enter +into particulars, and examine the bronze pedestals of the three standards +before the great church, designed by Sansovino in the true spirit of the +antique, and covered with relievos, at the same time bold and elegant. +It is also to this celebrated architect we are indebted for the stately +façade of the Proccuratie nuove, which forms one side of the square, and +presents an uninterrupted series of arcades and marble columns +exquisitely wrought. Opposite this magnificent range appears another +line of palaces, whose architecture, though far removed from the Grecian +purity of Sansovino, impresses veneration, and completes the pomp of the +view. + + [Picture: Grand Canal, Venice] + +There is something strange and singular in the tower, which rises +distinct from the smooth pavement of the square, a little to the left as +you stand before the chief entrance of St. Mark’s. The design is rather +barbarous, and terminates in uncouth and heavy pyramids; yet in spite of +these defects it struck me with awe. A beautiful building called the +Loggetta, and which serves as a guard-house during the convocation of the +grand council, decorates its base. Nothing can be more enriched, more +finished than this structure; which, though far from diminutive, is in a +manner lost at the foot of the Campanile. This enormous mass seems to +promise a very long duration, and will probably carry down the fame of +St. Mark and his Lion to the latest posterity. Both appear in great +state towards its summit, and have nothing superior, but an archangel +perched on the topmost pinnacle, and pointing to the skies. The dusk +prevented my remarking the various sculptures with which the Loggetta is +crowded. + +Crossing the ample space between this elegant edifice and the ducal +palace, I passed through a labyrinth of pillars and entered the principal +court, of which nothing but the great outline was visible at so late an +hour. Two reservoirs of bronze, rich with sculptured foliage, diversify +the area. In front a magnificent flight of steps presents itself, by +which the senators ascend through vast and solemn corridors, which lead +to the interior of the edifice. The colossal statues of Mars and Neptune +guard the entrance, and have given the appellation of _scala dei geganti_ +to the steps below, which I mounted not without respect; and, leaning +against the balustrades, formed like the rest of the building of the +rarest marbles, adored the tutelary divinities. + +My devotions were shortly interrupted by one of the sbirri, or officers +of police, who take their stands after sunset before the avenues of the +palace, and who told me the gates were upon the point of being closed. +So, hurrying down the steps, I left half my vows unpaid and a million of +delicate sculptures unexplored; for every pilaster, every frieze, every +entablature, is incrusted with porphyry, verde antique, or some other +curious marble, carved into as many grotesque wreaths and mouldings as we +admire in the loggios of Raffaello. The various portals, the strange +projections, the length of cloisters; in short, the noble irregularity of +these imperial piles, delighted me beyond idea; and I was sorry to be +forced to abandon them so soon, especially as the twilight, which bats +and owls love not better than I do, enlarged every portico, lengthened +every colonnade, and increased the dimensions of the whole, just as +imagination desired. This faculty would have had full scope had I but +remained an hour longer. The moon would then have gleamed upon the +gigantic forms of Mars and Neptune, and discovered the statues of ancient +heroes emerging from the gloom of their niches. + +Such an interesting assemblage of objects, such regal scenery, with the +reflection that half their ornaments once contributed to the decoration +of Athens, transported me beyond myself. The sbirri thought me +distracted. True enough, I was stalking proudly about like an actor in +an ancient Grecian tragedy, lifting up his hands to the consecrated fanes +and images around, expecting the reply of his attendant chorus, and +declaiming the first verses of Œdipus Tyrannus. + +These fits of enthusiasm were hardly subsided, when I issued from the +gates of the palace into the great square, which received a faint gleam +from its casinos and palaces, just beginning to be lighted up, and become +the resort of pleasure and dissipation. Numbers were walking in parties +upon the pavement; some sought the shade of the porticos with their +favourites; others were earnestly engaged in conversation, and filled the +gay illuminated apartments, where they resorted to drink coffee and +sorbet, with laughter and merriment. A thoughtless giddy transport +prevailed; for, at this hour, anything like restraint seems perfectly out +of the question; and however solemn a magistrate or senator may appear in +the day, at night he lays up wig and robe and gravity to sleep together, +runs intriguing about in his gondola, takes the reigning sultana under +his arm, and so rambles half over the town, which grows gayer and gayer +as the day declines. + +Many of the noble Venetians have a little suite of apartments in some +out-of-the-way corner, near the grand piazza, of which their families are +totally ignorant. To these they skulk in the dusk, and revel undisturbed +with the companions of their pleasures. Jealousy itself cannot discover +the alleys, the winding passages, the unsuspected doors, by which these +retreats are accessible. Many an unhappy lover, whose mistress +disappears on a sudden with some fortunate rival, has searched for her +haunts in vain. The gondoliers themselves, though the prime managers of +intrigue, are scarce ever acquainted with these interior cabinets. When +a gallant has a mind to pursue his adventures with mystery, he rows to +the piazza, orders his bark to wait, meets his goddess in the crowd, and +vanishes from all beholders. Surely, Venice is the city in the universe +best calculated for giving scope to the observations of a devil upon two +sticks. What a variety of lurking-places would one stroke of his crutch +uncover! + +Whilst the higher ranks were solacing themselves in their casinos, the +rabble were gathered in knots round the strollers and mountebanks, +singing and scaramouching in the middle of the square. I observed a +great number of Orientals amongst the crowd, and heard Turkish and Arabic +muttering in every corner. There the Sclavonian dialect predominated; +there some Grecian jargon, almost unintelligible. Had St. Mark’s church +been the wondrous tower, and its piazza the chief square, of the city of +Babylon, there could scarcely have been a greater confusion of languages. + +The novelty of the scene afforded me no small share of amusement, and I +wandered about from group to group, and from one strange exotic to +another, asking and being asked innumerable ridiculous questions, and +settling the politics of London and Constantinople, almost in the same +breath. This instant, I found myself in a circle of grave Armenian +priests and jewellers; the next amongst Greeks and Dalmatians, who +accosted me with the smoothest compliments, and gave proof that their +reputation for pliability and address was not ill-founded. + +I was entering into a grand harum-scarum discourse with some Russian +Counts or Princes, or whatever you please, just landed with dwarfs, and +footmen, and governors, and staring, like me, about them, when Mad. de R. +arrived, to whom I had the happiness of being recommended. She very +obligingly presented me to some of the most distinguished of the Venetian +families at their great casino, which looks into the piazza, and consists +of five or six rooms, fitted up in a gay flimsy taste, neither rich nor +elegant, where were a great many lights, and a great many ladies +negligently dressed, their hair falling very freely about them, and +innumerable adventures written in their eyes. The gentlemen were lolling +upon the sofas or lounging about the apartments. + +The whole assembly seemed upon the verge of gaping, till coffee was +carried round. This magic beverage diffused a temporary animation; and, +for a moment or two, conversation moved on with a degree of pleasing +extravagance; but the flash was soon dissipated, and nothing remained +save cards and stupidity. + +In the intervals of shuffling and dealing, some talked over the affairs +of the grand council with less reserve than I expected; and two or three +of them asked some feeble questions about the late tumults in London: as +much, however, through indolence and forgetfulness, I should conjecture, +as from any political motive, for I don’t believe all those wise stories, +which some travellers have propagated, of Venetian subtlety and profound +silence. They might have reigned during the dark periods of the +republic, but at this moment the veil is rent in fifty places; and +without any wonderful penetration, the debates of the senate are +discoverable. There doubtless was a time when, society being greatly +divided, and little communication subsisting among the nobles, secrets +were invariably kept; but since the establishment of casinos, which the +ladies rule, where chit-chat and tittle-tattle are for ever going +forwards, who can preserve a rigorous taciturnity upon any subject in the +universe? It was one o’clock before all the company were assembled, and +I left them at three, still dreaming over their coffee and card-tables. +Trieze is their favourite game: _uno_, _due_, _tre_, _quatro_, _cinque_, +_fante_, _cavallo_ are eternally repeated; the apartments echoed no other +sound. + +No lively people could endure such monotony; yet I have been told the +Venetians are remarkably spirited, and so eager in the pursuit of +amusement as hardly to allow themselves any sleep. Some, for instance, +after declaiming in the Senate, walking an hour in the square, and +fidgeting about from one casino to another till morning dawns, will get +into a gondola, row across the Lagunes, take the post to Mestre or +Fusina, and jumble over craggy pavements to Treviso, breakfast in haste, +and rattle back again as if the devil were charioteer: by eleven the +party is restored to Venice, resumes robe and periwig, and goes to +council. + +This may be very true, and yet I will never cite the Venetians as +examples of vivacity. Their nerves, unstrung by disease and the +consequences of early debaucheries, impede all lively flow of spirits in +its course, and permit at best but a few moments of a false and feverish +activity. The approaches of rest, forced back by an immoderate use of +coffee, render them, too, weak and listless, and the facility of being +wafted from place to place in a gondola, adds not a little to their +indolence. In short, I can scarcely regard their Eastern neighbours in a +more lazy light; and am apt to imagine that instead of slumbering less +than other people, they pass their lives in one perpetual doze. + +_August_ 4_th_.—The heats were so excessive in the night, that I thought +myself several times on the point of suffocation, tossed about like a +wounded fish, and dreamt of the devil and Senegal. Towards sunrise, a +faint breeze restored me to life and reason. I slumbered till late in +the day, and the moment I was fairly awake, ordered my gondolier to row +out to the main ocean, that I might plunge into its waves, and hear and +see nothing but waters around me. + +We shot off, wound amongst a number of sheds, shops, churches, casinos, +and palaces, growing immediately out of the canals, without any apparent +foundation. No quay, no terrace, not even a slab is to be seen before +the doors; one step brings you from the hall into the bark, and the +vestibules of the stateliest structures lie open to the waters, and level +with them. I observed several, as I glided along, supported by rows of +well-proportioned pillars, adorned with terms and vases, beyond which the +eye generally discovers a grand court, and sometimes a garden. + +In about half an hour, we had left the thickest cluster of isles behind, +and, coasting the Place of St. Mark opposite to San Giorgio Maggiore, +whose elegant frontispiece was painted on the calm waters, launched into +the blue expanse of sea, from which rise the Chartreuse and two or three +other woody islands. I hailed the spot where I had passed such a happy +visionary evening, and nodded to my friends the pines. + +A few minutes more brought me to a dreary, sun-burnt shore, stalked over +by a few Sclavonian soldiers, who inhabit a castle hard by, go regularly +to an ugly unfinished church, and from thence, it is to be hoped, to +paradise; as the air of their barracks is abominable, and kills them like +blasted sheep. + +Forlorn as this island appeared to me, I was told it was the scene of the +Doge’s pageantry at the feast of the Ascension; and the very spot to +which he sails in the _Bucentaur_, previously to wedding the sea. You +have heard enough, and if ever you looked into a show-box, seen full +sufficient of this gaudy spectacle, without my enlarging upon the topic. +I shall only say, that I was obliged to pursue, partly, the same road as +the nuptial procession, in order to reach the beach, and was broiled and +dazzled accordingly. + +At last, after traversing some desert hillocks, all of a hop with toads +and locusts (amongst which English heretics have the honour of being +interred), I passed under an arch, and suddenly the boundless plains of +ocean opened to my view. I ran to the smooth sands, extending on both +sides out of sight, cast off my clothes, and dashed into the waves, which +were coursing one another with a gentle motion, and breaking lightly on +the shores. The tide rolled over me as I lay floating about, buoyed up +by the water, and carried me wheresoever it listed. It might have borne +me far out into the main, and exposed me to a thousand perils, before I +had been aware, so totally was I abandoned to the illusion of the moment. +My ears were filled with murmuring undecided sounds; my limbs, stretched +languidly on the surge, rose or sunk just as it swelled or subsided. In +this passive, senseless state I remained, till the sun cast a less +intolerable light, and the fishing vessels, lying out in the bay at a +great distance, spread their sails and were coming home. + +Hastening back over the desert of locusts, I threw myself into the +gondola; and, no wind or wave opposing, was soon wafted across to those +venerable columns, so conspicuous in the Place of St. Mark. Directing my +course immediately to the ducal palace, I entered the grand court, +ascending the Giant’s stairs, and examined at my leisure its bas-reliefs. +Then, taking the first guide that presented himself, I was shown along +several cloisters and corridors, sustained by innumerable pillars, into +the state apartments, which Tintoret and Paolo Veronese have covered with +the triumphs of their country. + +A swarm of lawyers filled the Sala del Maggior Consiglio, and one of the +first advocates in the republic was pleading with all his might, before a +solemn row of senators. The eyes and ears of the assembly seemed equally +affected. Clouds of powder and volleys of execrations issuing every +instant from the disputants, I got out of their way; and was led from +hall to hall, and from picture to picture, with exemplary resignation. +To be sure, I was heartily tired, but behaved with decency, having never +once expressed how much I wished the chefs-d’œuvre I had been +contemplating, less smoky and numerous. + +At last, I reached once more the colonnades at the entrance, and caught +the sea-breeze in the open porticos which front San Giorgio Maggiore. +The walls are covered in most places with grim visages sculptured in +marble, whose mouths gape for accusations, and swallow every lie that +malice and revenge can dictate. I wished for a few ears of the same +kind, dispersed about the Doge’s residence, to which one might apply +one’s own, and catch some account of the mysteries within; some little +dialogue between the Three Inquisitors, or debate in the Council of Ten. + +This is the tribunal which holds the wealthy nobility in continual awe; +before which they appear with trembling and terror: and whose summons +they dare not disobey. Sometimes, by way of clemency, it condemns its +victims to perpetual imprisonment in close, stifling cells, between the +leads and beams of the palace; or, unwilling to spill the blood of a +fellow-citizen, generously sinks them into dungeons, deep under the +canals which wash its foundations; so that, above and below, its majesty +is contaminated by the abodes of punishment. What other sovereign could +endure the idea of having his immediate residence polluted with tears? or +revel in his halls, conscious that many of his species were consuming +their hours in lamentations above his head, and that but a few beams +separated him from the scene of their tortures? How ever gaily disposed, +could one dance with pleasure on a pavement, beneath which lie damp and +gloomy caverns, whose inhabitants waste away by painful degrees, and feel +themselves whole years a-dying? Impressed by these terrible ideas, I +could not regard the palace without horror, and wished for the strength +of a thousand antediluvians, to level it with the sea, lay open the +secret recesses of punishment, and admit free gales and sunshine into +every den. + +When I had thus vented my indignation, I repaired to the statue of +Neptune and invoked it to second my enterprise. Once upon a time no +deity had a freer hand at razing cities. His execution was renowned +throughout all antiquity, and the proudest monarchs deprecated the wrath +of ΚΡΕΙΩΝ ΕΝΟΣΙΧΘΩΝ. But, like the other mighty ones of ancient days, +his reign is past and his trident disregarded. Formerly any wild spirit +found favour in the eyes of fortune, and was led along the career of +glory to the deliverance of captives and the extirpation of monsters; +but, in our degenerate times, this easy road to fame is no longer open, +and the means of producing such signal events perplexed and difficult. + +Abandoning, therefore, the sad tenants of the Piombi to their fate, I +left the courts, and stepping into my bark, was rowed down a canal over +which the lofty walls of the palace cast a tremendous shade. Beneath +these fatal waters the dungeons I have also been speaking of are +situated. There the wretches lie marking the sound of the oars, and +counting the free passage of every gondola. Above, a marble bridge, of +bold majestic architecture, joins the highest part of the prisons to the +secret galleries of the palace; from whence criminals are conducted over +the arch to a cruel and mysterious death. I shuddered whilst passing +below; and believe it is not without cause, this structure is named PONTE +DEl SOSPIRI. Horrors and dismal prospects haunted my fancy upon my +return. I could not dine in peace, so strongly was my imagination +affected; but snatching my pencil, I drew chasms and subterraneous +hollows, the domain of fear and torture, with chains, racks, wheels, and +dreadful engines, in the style of Piranesi. About sunset I went and +refreshed myself with the cool air and cheerful scenery of the Fondamenti +nuovi, a vast quay or terrace of white marble, which commands the whole +series of isles, from San Michele’s to Torcello, + + “That rise and glitter o’er the ambient tide.” + +Nothing can be more picturesque than the groups of towers and cupolas +which they present, mixed with flat roofs and low buildings, and now and +then a pine or cypress. Afar off, a little woody isle, called Il +Deserto, swells from the ocean and diversifies its expanse. + +When I had spent a delightful half-hour in viewing the distant isles, M. +de. B. accompanied me to the Mendicanti, one of the four conservatorios, +which give the best musical education conceivable to near one hundred +young women. You may imagine how admirably those of the Mendicanti in +particular are taught, since their establishment is under Bertoni’s +direction, who breathes around him the very soul of grace and harmony. +The chapel in which we sat to hear the oratorio was dark and solemn; a +screen of lofty pillars, formed of black marble and highly polished, +excluded the glow of the western sky, and reflected the lamps which burn +perpetually before the altar. Every tribune was thronged with people, +whose profound silence showed them worthy auditors of Bertoni’s +compositions. Here were no cackling old women, or groaning Methodists, +such as infest our English churches, and scare one’s ears with hoarse +coughs accompanied by the naso obligato. All were still and attentive, +imbibing the plaintive notes of the voices with eagerness; and scarce a +countenance but seemed deeply affected with David’s sorrows, the subject +of the performance. I sat retired in a solitary tribune, and felt them +as my own. Night came on before the last chorus was sung, and I still +seem to hear its sacred melody. + +_August_ 18_th_.—It rains; the air is refreshed and I have courage to +resume my pen, which the sultry weather had forced to lie dormant so +long. I like this odd town of Venice, and find every day some new +amusement in rambling about its innumerable canals and alleys. Sometimes +I go and pry about the great church of Saint Mark, and examine the +variety of marbles and mazes of delicate sculpture with which it is +covered. The cupola, glittering with gold, mosaic, and paintings of half +the wonders in the Apocalypse, never fails transporting me to the period +of the Eastern empire. I think myself in Constantinople, and expect +Michael Paleologus with all his train. One circumstance alone prevents +my observing half the treasures of the place, and holds down my fancy, +just springing into the air: I mean the vile stench which exhales from +every recess and corner of the edifice, and which all the altars cannot +subdue. + +When oppressed by this noxious atmosphere, I run up the Campanile in the +piazza, and seating myself amongst the pillars of the gallery, breathe +the fresh gales which blow from the Adriatic; survey at my leisure all +Venice beneath me, with its azure sea, white sails, and long tracts of +islands shining in the sun. Having thus laid in a provision of wholesome +breezes, I brave the vapours of the canals, and venture into the most +curious and murky quarters of the city, in search of Turks and Infidels, +that I may ask as many questions as I please about Damascus and Suristan, +those happy countries which nature has covered with roses. + +Asiatics find Venice very much to their liking, and all those I conversed +with allowed its customs and style of living had a good deal of +conformity to their own. The eternal lounging in coffee-houses and +sipping of sorbets, agrees perfectly well with the inhabitants of the +Ottoman empire, who stalk about here in their proper dresses, and smoke +their own exotic pipes, without being stared and wondered at, as in most +other European capitals. Some few of these Orientals are communicative +and enlightened; but, generally speaking, they know nothing beyond the +rule of three, and the commonest transactions of mercantile affairs. + +The Greeks are by far a more lively generation, still retaining their +propensity to works of genius and imagination. Metastasio has been +lately translated into their modern jargon, and some obliging papa or +other has had the patience to put the long-winded romance of Clelia into +a Grecian dress. I saw two or three of these volumes exposed on a stall, +under the grand arcades of the public library, as I went one day to +admire the antiques in its vestibules. + +Whilst I was intent upon my occupation, a little door, I never should +have suspected, flew open, and out popped Monsieur de V., from a place +where nothing, I believe, but broomsticks and certain other utensils were +ever before deposited. This gentleman, the most active investigator of +Homer since the days of the good bishop of Thessalonica, bespatters you +with more learning in a minute than others communicate in half a year; +quotes Arabic, Greek, Hebrew, Syriac, etc., with a formidable fluency; +and drove me from one end of the room to the other with all the thunder +of erudition. Syllables fell thicker than hail, and in an instant I +found myself so weighed down and covered, that I prayed, for mercy’s +sake, to be introduced, by way of respite, to a Laplander whom he leads +about as a curiosity; a poor, harmless, good sort of a soul, calm and +indifferent, who has acquired the words of several Oriental languages to +perfection: ideas he has, in none. + +We went together to view a collection of medals in one of the Gradanigo +palaces, and two or three inestimable volumes, filled with paintings that +represent the dress of the ancient Venetians; so that I had an +opportunity of observing to perfection all the Lapland nothingness of my +companion. What a perfect void! Cold and silent as the polar regions, +not one passion ever throbbed in his bosom; not one bright ray of fancy +ever glittered in his mind; without love or anger, pleasure or pain, his +days fleet smoothly along: all things considered, I must confess I envied +such comfortable apathy. + +After having passed a peaceful hour in dreaming over the medals and +rarities, M. de V. was for conducting me to the Armenian convent, but I +begged to be excused, and went to S. Giovanni e Paolo’s, a church ever +celebrated in the annals of painting, since it contains that masterpiece +of Titian, “The Martyrdom of St. Peter.” It being a festival, the huge +Gothic pillars were covered with red damask, and the shrines of saints +and worthies glimmered with tapers. The dim chapels on each side the +nave received a feeble light, and discovered the tombs of ancient Doges, +and the equestrian statues of many a doughty General. I admired them +all, but liked nothing so much as a snug bas-relief I found out in a +corner, which represents St. Mark and some other good souls a-prosing, +whilst his lion and the old serpent squabble and scratch in the +foreground of the sculpture, like cat and dog by the fireside. After +dinner, when the shadows of domes and palaces began lengthening across +the waves, I rowed out + + “On the clear hyaline, the glassy sea,” + +to observe the last sunbeams fade on the tufted gardens of the Giudecca, +and to contemplate the distant Euganean hills, once the happiest region +of Italy; where wandering nations enjoyed the simplicity of a pastoral +life, long before the arrival of Antenor. In those ancient times, deep +forests and extensive pastures covered the shores {170a} of the Adriatic, +and innumerable flocks hung on the brow of the mountains. This golden +period ended upon the incursion of the Trojans and Heneti; who, led by +Antenor, drove away the unfortunate savages, and possessed themselves of +their habitations. {170b} The form of the hillocks is varied and +picturesque, and the sun, sinking behind them, suffuses their summits +with tints of the brightest orange. Scarce one evening have I failed to +remark the changeful scenery of the clouds, and to fill my mind with +recollections of primeval days and happier ages. Night generally +surprises me in the midst of my reveries; I return, lulled in my gondola +by the murmur of waters, pass about an hour with M. de R., whose +imagination and sensibility almost equal your own; then, retire to sleep, +and dream of the Euganeans. + + + + +LETTER IX. + + +_August_ 27_th_.—I am just returned from visiting the isles of Burano, +Torcello, and Mazorbo, distant about five miles from Venice. To these +amphibious spots the Romans, inhabitants of eastern Lombardy, fled from +the ravine of Attila; and, if we may believe Cassiodorus, there was a +time when they presented a beautiful appearance. Beyond them, on the +coast of the Lagunes, rose the once populous city of Altina, with its six +stately gates, which Dandolo mentions. {170c} Its neighbourhood was +scattered with innumerable villas and temples, composing altogether a +prospect which Martial compares to Baiæ: + + “Æmula Baianis Altini littora villis.” + +But this agreeable scene, like so many others, is passed entirely away, +and has left nothing, except heaps of stones and misshapen fragments, to +vouch for its former magnificence. Two of the islands, Costanziaco and +Amiano, that are imagined to have contained the bowers and gardens of the +Altinatians, have sunk beneath the waters; those which remain are +scarcely worthy to rise above their surface. + +Though I was persuaded little was left to be seen above ground, I could +not deny myself the imaginary pleasure of treading a corner of the earth +once so adorned and cultivated; and of walking over the roofs, perhaps, +of concealed halls and undiscovered palaces. M. de R., to whom I +communicated my ideas, entered at once into the scheme; hiring therefore +a _peiotte_ we took some provisions and music (to us equally necessaries +of life), and launched into the canal, between St. Michael and Murano. + +The waves coursed each other with violence, and dark clouds hung over the +grand sweep of northern mountains, whilst the west smiled with azure and +bright sunshine. Thunder rolled awfully at a distance, and those white +and greyish birds, the harbingers of storms, flitted frequently before +our bark. For some moments we were in doubt whether to proceed; but as +we advanced by a little dome in the Isle of St. Michael, shaped like an +ancient temple, the sky cleared, and the ocean subsiding by degrees, soon +presented a tranquil expanse, across which we were smoothly wafted. Our +instruments played several delightful airs, that called forth the +inhabitants of every island, and held them silent, as if spell-bound, on +the edge of their quays and terraces, till we were out of hearing. + +Leaving Murano far behind, Venice and its world of turrets began to sink +on the horizon, and the low desert isles beyond Mazorbo to lie stretched +out before us. Now we beheld vast wastes of {171} purple flowers, and +could distinguish the low hum of the insects which hover above them; such +was the silence of the place. Coasting these solitary fields, we wound +amongst several serpentine canals, bordered by gardens of figs and +pomegranates, with neat Indian-looking inclosures of cane and reed: an +aromatic plant clothes the margin of the waters, which the people justly +dignify with the title of marine incense. It proved very serviceable in +subduing a musky odour, which attacked us the moment we landed, and which +proceeds from serpents that lurk in the hedges. These animals, say the +gondoliers, defend immense treasures which lie buried under the ruins. +Woe to those who attempt invading them, or prying too cautiously about! + +Not choosing to be devoured, we left many a mount of fragments unnoticed, +and made the best of our way to a little green, free from weeds or +adders, bounded on one side by a miserable shed, decorated with the name +of the Podesta’s residence, and on the other by a circular church. Some +remains of tolerable antique sculpture are enchased in the walls; and the +dome, supported by pillars of a smooth Grecian marble, though uncouth and +ill-proportioned, impresses a sort of veneration, and transports the +fancy to the twilight glimmering period when it was raised. + +Having surveyed what little was visible, and given as much career to our +imaginations as the scene inspired, we walked over a soil composed of +crumbling bricks and cement to the cathedral; whose arches, turned on the +ancient Roman principle, convinced us that it dates as high as the sixth +or seventh century. + +Nothing can be well more fantastic than the ornaments of this structure, +formed from the ruins of the Pagan temples of Altina, and incrusted with +a gilt mosaic, like that which covers our Edward the Confessor’s tomb. +The pavement, composed of various precious marbles, is richer and more +beautiful than one could have expected, in a place where every other +object savours of the grossest barbarism. At the farther end, beyond the +altar, appears a semicircular niche, with seats like the gradines of a +diminutive amphitheatre; above rise the quaint forms of the apostles, in +red, blue, green, and black mosaic, and in the midst of the goodly group +a sort of marble chair, cool and penitential enough, where St. Lorenzo +Giustiniani sat to hold a provincial council, the Lord knows how long +ago! The fount for holy water stands by the principal entrance, fronting +this curious recess, and seems to have belonged to some place of Gentile +worship. The figures of horned imps cling round its sides, more +devilish, more Egyptian, than any I ever beheld. The dragons on old +china are not more whimsical: I longed to have it filled with bats’ +blood, and to have sent it by way of present to the sabbath; I can assure +you it would have done honour to their witcheries. The sculpture is not +the most delicate, but I cannot say a great deal about it, as but little +light reaches the spot where it is fixed. Indeed, the whole church is +far from luminous, its windows being narrow and near the roof, with +shutters composed of blocks of marble, which nothing but the last +whirlwind, one should think, could move from their hinges. + +By the time we had examined every nook and corner of this singular +edifice, and caught perhaps some small portion of sanctity by sitting in +San Lorenzo’s chair, dinner was prepared in a neighbouring convent, and +the nuns, allured by the sound of our flutes and oboes, peeped out of +their cells and showed themselves by dozens at the grate. Some few +agreeable faces and interesting eyes enlivened the dark sisterhood; all +seemed to catch a gleam of pleasure from the music; two or three of them, +probably the last immured, let fall a tear, and suffered the recollection +of the world and its profane joys to interrupt for a moment their sacred +tranquillity. + +We stayed till the sun was low, and the breezes blew cool from the ocean, +on purpose that they might listen as long as possible to a harmony which +seemed to issue, as the old abbess expressed herself, from the gates of +paradise ajar. A thousand benedictions consecrated our departure; +twilight came on just as we entered the bark and rowed out upon the +waves, agitated by a fresh gale, but fearing nothing under the protection +of St. Margherita, whose good wishes our music had secured. + +In two hours we were safely landed at the Fondamenti nuovi, and went +immediately to the Mendicanti, where they were performing the oratorio of +Sisera. The composer, a young man, had displayed great fire and +originality in this performance; and a knowledge of character seldom +found in the most celebrated masters. The supplication of the thirsty +chieftain, and Jael’s insinuating arts and pious treachery, are admirably +expressed; but the agitation and bodily slumbers which precede his death, +are imagined in the highest strain of genius. The terror and agony of +his dreams made me start, more than once, from my seat; and all the +horrors of his assassination seemed full before me, so fatal was the +sound of the instrument, so just the conduct of the harmony. + +Too much applause cannot be given to the Marchetti, who sang the part of +Sisera, and seconded the composer’s ideas by the most feeling and +spirited execution. There are few things I shall regret more at Venice, +than this conservatorio. Whenever I am musically given, I fly to it, and +hear the most striking finales in Bertoni’s and Anfosse’s operas, as long +and often as I please. + +The sight of the orchestra still makes me smile. You know, I suppose, it +is entirely of the female gender, and that nothing is more common than to +see a delicate white hand journeying across an enormous double bass, or a +pair of roseate cheeks puffing, with all their efforts, at a French horn. +Some that are grown old and Amazonian, who have abandoned their fiddles +and their lovers, take vigorously to the kettledrum; and one poor limping +lady, who had been crossed in love, now makes an admirable figure on the +bassoon. + +Good-night! I am quite exhausted with composing a chorus for these same +Amazonians. The poetry I send you, which seems to be some of the most +picturesque and nervous an Italian ever produced. The music takes up too +much room to travel at present. One day or other, perhaps, we may hear +it in some dark grove, when the moon is eclipsed and nature in alarm. + +This is not the last letter you would receive from Venice, was I not +hurrying to Lucca, where Pacchierotti sings next week, in the opera of +Quinto Fabio, of all operas the most worthy to excuse such a musical +fanaticism. Adieu. + + + + +LETTER X. + + +_September_ 4_th_.—I was sorry to leave Venice, and regretted my peaceful +excursions upon the Adriatic, when the Euganean hills were lost in a +golden haze, and the sun cast his departing gleam across the waters. No +bright rays illuminated my departure, but the coolness and perfume of the +air made some amends for their absence. + +About an hour’s rowing from the isle of Saint Giorgio in Alga, brought us +to the shores of Fusina, right opposite the opening where the Brenta +mixes with the sea. This river flows calmly between banks of verdure, +crowned by poplars, with vines twining round every stalk, and depending +from tree to tree in beautiful festoons. Beds of mint and flowers clothe +the brink of the stream, except where a tall growth of reeds and osiers +lift themselves to the breezes. I heard their whispers as we glided +along; and had I been alone might have told you what they said to me; but +such aërial oracles must be approached in solitude. The morning +continued to lower as we advanced; scarce a wind ventured to breathe; all +was still and placid as the surface of the Brenta. No sound struck my +ears except the bargemen hallooing to open the sluices, and deepen the +water. + +As yet I had not perceived an habitation; no other objects than green +inclosures and fields of Turkish corn, shaded with vines and poplars, met +my eyes wherever I turned them. + +Our navigation, the tranquil streams and cultivated banks, in short the +whole landscape, had a sort of Chinese cast, which led me into Quang-Si +and Quang-Tong. The variety of canes, reeds, and blooming rushes, +shooting from the slopes, confirmed my fancies, and when I beheld the +yellow nenupha expanding its broad leaves to the current, I thought of +the Tao-Sé, and venerated one of the chief ingredients in their beverage +of immortality. Landing where this magic vegetation appeared most +luxuriant, I cropped the flowers; but searched in vain for the kernels, +which, according to the doctrine of the Bonzes, produce such wonderful +effects. Though I was deceived in this pursuit, I gained, however, in +another. The bank upon which I had sprung presented a continual walk of +level turf, surrounded by vines, concealing the trees which supported +them, and forming the most delightful bowers. Under these garlands I +passed, and gathered the ripe clusters which dangled around, convinced +that Noah had discovered a far superior beverage to that of the Tao-Sé. +Whilst I was thus agreeably employed, it began to rain, and the earth to +exhale a fresh, reviving odour, highly grateful to one who had been so +long confined to walls and waters. After breathing nothing but the +essence of the canals and the flavours of the Rialto, after the jingling +of bells and brawls of the gondoliers, imagine how agreeable it was to +scent the perfume of clover, to tread a springing herbage, and listen in +silence to the showers pattering amongst the leaves. I staid so long +amidst the vines, that it grew late before we rowed by the Mira, a +village of palaces, whose courts and gardens, as magnificent as statues, +terraces, and vases can make them, compose a grand, though far from a +rural prospect. + +Not being greatly delighted with such scenery, we stayed no longer than +our dinner required, and reached the Dolo an hour before sunset. Passing +the great sluices, whose gates opened with a thundering noise, we +continued our course along the peaceful Brenta, winding its broad full +stream through impenetrable copses, surmounted by tall waving poplars. +Day was about to close when we reached Fiesso; and it being a misty +evening, I could scarcely distinguish the pompous façade of the Pisani +palace. That where we supped looks upon a broad mass of foliage, which I +contemplated with pleasure as it sank in the dusk. + +We walked a long while under a pavilion stretched before the entrance, +breathing the freshness of the wood after the shower, and hearing the +drops trickle down the awning above our heads. The Galuzzi sang some of +her father Ferandini’s compositions, with a fire, an energy, an +expression, that one moment raised me to a pitch of heroism, and the next +dissolved me in tears. Her cheek was flushed with inspiration, her eyes +glistened; the whole tone of her countenance was like that of a person +rapt and inspired. I forgot both time and place whilst she was breathing +forth such celestial harmony. The night stole imperceptibly away, and +morning dawned before I awoke from my trance. I don’t recollect ever to +have passed an evening, which every circumstance conspired so much to +improve. In general, my musical pleasures suffer terrible abatements +from the phlegm and stupidity of my neighbourhood, but here every one +seemed to catch the flame, and to listen with reciprocal delight. The C— +threw quick around her the glancing fires of genius: and, what with the +song of the Galuzzi, and those intellectual meteors, I scarcely knew to +what element I was transported; and doubted for several moments whether I +had not fallen into a celestial dream. I loathed the light of the +morning star, which summoned me to depart; and, if I may express myself +so poetically, + + “Cast many a longing, ling’ring look behind.” + + + + +LETTER XI. + + +_September_ 5_th_.—The glow and splendour of the rising sun, for once in +my life, drew little of my attention. I was too deeply plunged in my +reveries, to notice the landscape which lay before me; and the walls of +Padua presented themselves some time ere I was aware. At any other +moment, how sensibly should I have been affected with their appearance! +how many ideas of Antenor and his Trojans, would have thronged into my +memory! but now I regarded the scene with indifference, and passed many a +palace, and many a woody garden, with my eyes riveted to the ground. The +first object that appeared, upon lifting them up, was a confused pile of +spires and cupolas, dedicated to blessed St. Anthony, who betook himself +to the conversion of fish, after the heretics would lend no ear to his +discourses. + +You are too well apprised of the veneration I have always entertained for +this ingenious preacher, to doubt that I immediately repaired to his +shrine and offered up my little orisons before it. Mine was a disturbed +spirit, and required all the balm of St. Anthony’s kindness to appease +it. Perhaps you will say I had better gone to bed, and applied myself to +my sleepy friend, the pagan divinity. ’Tis probable that you are in the +right; but I could not retire to rest without venting some portion of +effervescence in sighs and supplications. The nave was filled with +decrepit women and feeble children, kneeling by baskets of vegetables and +other provisions; which, by good Anthony’s interposition, they hoped to +sell advantageously in the course of the day. Beyond these, nearer the +choir, and in a gloomier part of the edifice, knelt a row of rueful +penitents, smiting their breasts, and lifting their eyes to heaven. +Further on, in front of the dark recess, where the sacred relics are +deposited, a few desperate, melancholy sinners lay prostrate. + +To these I joined myself, and fell down on the steps before the shrine. +The sunbeams had not yet penetrated into this religious quarter; and the +only light it received proceeded from the golden lamps, which hang in +clusters round the sanctuary. A lofty altar, decked with superstitious +prodigality, conceals the holy pile from profane glances. Those who are +profoundly touched with its sanctity may approach, and walking round, +look through the crevices of the tomb, and rub their noses against the +identical bones of St. Anthony, which, it is observed, exude a balsamic +odour. But supposing a traveller ever so heretical, I would advise him +by no means to neglect this pilgrimage; since every part of the recess he +visits is decorated with the most exquisite sculptures. Sansovino and +the best artists have vied with each other in carving the alto relievos +of the arcade, which, for design and execution, would do honour to the +sculptors of antiquity. + +Having observed these objects with much less exactness than they merited, +and acted perhaps too capital a part amongst the devotees, I hastened to +the inn, luckily hard by, and one of the best I am acquainted with. Here +I soon fell asleep in defiance of sunshine. ’Tis true my slumbers were +not a little agitated. St. Anthony had been deaf to my prayer, and I +still found myself a frail, infatuated mortal. + +At five I got up; we dined, and afterwards, scarcely knowing, nor much +caring, what became of us, we strolled to the great hall of the town; an +enormous edifice, as large as that of Westminster, but free from stalls, +or shops, or nests of litigation. The roof, one spacious vault of brown +timber, casts a solemn gloom, which was still increased by the lateness +of the hour, and not diminished by the wan light, admitted through the +windows of pale blue glass. The size and shape of this colossal chamber, +the coving of the roof, with beams like perches for the feathered race, +stretching across it, and, above all, the watery gleams that glanced +through the casements, possessed my fancy with ideas of Noah’s ark, and +almost persuaded me I beheld that extraordinary vessel. The +representation one sees of it in Scheutzer’s “Physica Sacra” seems to be +formed upon this very model, and for several moments I indulged the +chimera of imagining myself confined within its precincts. How +willingly, could I but choose my companions, would I encounter a deluge, +to float whole years instead of months upon the waves! + +We remained walking to and fro in the ark, till the twilight faded into +total darkness. It was then full time to retire, as the guardian of the +place was by no means formed to divine our diluvian ideas. + + + + +LETTER XII. + + +_September_ 6_th_.—At Padua, I was too near the last and one of the most +celebrated abodes of Petrarch, to make the omission of a visit excusable; +had I not been in a disposition to render such a pilgrimage peculiarly +pleasing. I set forwards from Padua after dinner, so as to arrive some +time before sunset. Nothing could be finer than the day; and I had every +reason to promise myself a serene and delicious hour, before the sun +might go down. I put the poems of Petrarch into my pocket; and, as my +road lay chiefly through lanes, planted on either side with mulberries +and poplars, from which vines hung dangling in careless festoons, I found +many a bowering shade, where I sat, at intervals, to indulge my pensive +humour over some ejaculatory sonnet; as the pilgrim, on his journey to +Loretto, reposes here and there, to offer his prayers and meditations to +the Virgin. In little more than an hour and half, I found myself in the +midst of the Euganean hills, and, after winding almost another hour +amongst them, I got, before I was well aware, into the village of Arqua. +Nothing can be more sequestered or obscure than its situation. It had +rather a deserted appearance; several of its houses being destitute of +inhabitants, and crumbling into ruins. Two or three of them, however, +exhibited ancient towers, richly mantled with ivy, and surrounded with +cypress, that retained the air of having once belonged to persons of +consideration. Their present abandoned state nourished the melancholy +idea with which I entered the village. Could one approach the last +retreat of genius, and not look for some glow of its departed splendour? + + “Dear to the pensive eye of fond regret, + Is light still beaming from a sun that’s set.” + +The residence of Petrarch at Arqua is said to have drawn thither from +Padua the society of its more enlightened citizens. This city, whilst +Petrarch lived in its neighbourhood, was engaged in rebellion against the +Venetians; and Francis de Carrara, the head of it, went often to Arqua, +to consult Petrarch; when he found himself obliged to sue to Venice for +peace. The poet was indeed deputed, upon this occasion, his ambassador +to the state; as being a person whose character and credit were most +likely to appease its wrath. His success in this embassy might, perhaps, +have been some recompense for an employment he accepted with much regret, +as it forced him from his beloved retirement. In a letter to one of his +friends, written about this period of his life, he says: “I pass the +greatest part of the year in the country, which I have always preferred +to cities: I read; I write; I think: thus, my life and my pleasures are +like those of youth. I take pains to hide myself; but I cannot escape +visits: it is an honour which displeases and wearies me. In my little +house on the Euganean hills, I hope to pass my few remaining days in +tranquillity, and to have always before my eyes my dead, or my absent, +friends.” I was musing on these circumstances as I walked along the +village, till a venerable old woman, seated at her door with her distaff +in her hand, observing me, soon guessed the cause of my excursion; and +offered to guide me to Petrarch’s house. The remainder of my way was +short, and well amused by my guide’s enthusiastic expressions of +veneration for the poet’s memory; which, she assured me, she felt but in +common with the other inhabitants of the village. When we came to the +door of the house, we met the peasant, its present possessor. The old +woman, recommending the stranger and his curiosity to her neighbour’s +good offices, departed. I entered immediately, and ran over every room, +which the peasant assured me, in confirmation of what I before learnt +from better authority, were preserved, as nearly as they could be, in the +state Petrarch had left them. The house and premises, having +unfortunately been transmitted from one enthusiast of his name to +another, no tenants have been admitted, but under the strictest +prohibition of making any change in the form of the apartments, or in the +memorial relics belonging to the place: and, to say the truth, everything +I saw in it, save a few articles of the peasant’s furniture in the +kitchen, has an authentic appearance. Three of the rooms below stairs +are particularly shown, and they have nothing in them but what once +belonged to the poet. In one, which I think they call his parlour, is a +very antique cupboard; where, it is supposed, he deposited some precious +part of his literary treasure. The ceiling is painted in a grotesque +manner. A niche in the wall contains the skeleton of his favourite cat, +with a Latin epigram beneath, of Petrarch’s composition. It is good +enough to deserve being copied; but the lateness of the hour did not +allow me time. A little room, beyond this, is said to have been his +study: the walls of it, from top to bottom, are scribbled over with +sonnets, and poetical eulogies on Petrarch, ancient and modern: many of +which are subscribed by persons, of distinguished rank and talents, +Italians as well as strangers. Here, too, is the bard’s old chair, and +on it is displayed a great deal of heavy, ornamental carpentry; which +required no stretch of faith to be believed the manufacture of the +fourteenth century. You may be sure, I placed myself in it, with much +veneration, and the most resigned assent to Mrs. Dobson’s relation: that +Petrarch, sitting in this same chair, was found dead in his library, with +one arm leaning on a book. Who could sit in Petrarch’s chair, void of +some effect? I rose not from it without a train of pensive sentiments +and soft impressions; which I ever love to indulge. I was now led into a +larger room, behind that I first saw; where, it is likely enough, the +poet, according to the peasant’s information, received the visits of his +friends. Its walls were adorned with landscapes and pastoral scenes, in +such painting as Petrarch himself might, and is supposed to have +executed. Void of taste and elegance, either in the design or colouring, +they bear some characteristic marks of the age to which they are, with no +improbability, assigned; and, separate from the merit of exhibiting +repeatedly the portraits of Petrarch and Laura, are a valuable sketch of +the rude infancy of the art, where it rose with such hasty vigour to +perfection. Having seen all that was left unchanged in this consecrated +mansion, I passed through a room, said to have been the bard’s bed-room, +and stepped into the garden, situated on a green slope, descending +directly from the house. It is now rather an orchard than a garden; a +spot of small extent, and without much else to recommend it, but that it +once was the property of Petrarch. It is not pretended to have retained +the form in which he left it. An agreeably wild and melancholy kind of +view, which it commands over the Euganean hills, and which I beheld under +the calm glow of approaching sunset, must often, at the same moment, have +soothed the poet’s anxious feelings, and hushed his active imagination, +as it did my own, into a delicious repose. Having lingered here till the +sun was sunk beneath the horizon, I was led a little way farther in the +village, to see Petrarch’s fountain. Hippocrene itself could not have +been more esteemed by the poet, than this, his gift, by all the +inhabitants of Arqua. The spring is copious, clear, and of excellent +water; I need not say with what relish I drank of it. The last religious +act in my little pilgrimage was a visit to the church-yard; where I +strewed a few flowers, the fairest of the season, on the poet’s tomb; and +departed for Padua by the light of the moon. + + + + +LETTER XIII. + + +_September_ 7_th_.—Immediately after breakfast, we went to St. Justina’s, +a noble temple, designed by Palladio, and worthy of his reputation. The +dimensions are vast, and the equal distribution of light and ornament +truly admirable. Upon my first entrance, the long perspective of domes +above, and chequered marble below, struck me with surprise and pleasure. +I roved about the spacious aisles for several minutes, then sat down +under the grand cupola, and admired the beautiful symmetry of the +building. + +Both extremities of the cross aisles are terminated by altar and tombs of +very remote antiquity, adorned with uncouth sculptures of the +Evangelists, supported by wreathed columns of alabaster, round which, to +my no small astonishment, four or five gawky fellows were waddling on +their knees, persuaded, it seems, that this strange devotion would cure +the rheumatism, or any other aches with which they were afflicted. You +can have no conception of the ridiculous attitudes into which they threw +themselves; nor the difficulty with which they squeezed along, between +the middle column of the tomb and those which surrounded it. No criminal +in the pillory ever exhibited a more rueful appearance, no swine ever +scrubbed itself more fervently than these infatuated lubbers. + +I left them hard at work, taking more exercise than had been their lot +for many a day; and, mounting into the organ gallery, listened to +Turini’s {182} music with infinite satisfaction. The loud harmonious +tones of the instrument filled the whole edifice; and, being repeated by +the echoes of its lofty domes and arches, produced a wonderful effect. +Turini, aware of this circumstance, adapts his compositions with great +intelligence to the place, and makes his slave, the organ, send forth the +most affecting, long-protracted sounds, which languish in the air, and +are some time a-dying. Nothing can be more original than his style. +Deprived of sight by an unhappy accident, in the flower of his days, he +gave up his entire soul to music, and scarcely exists but through its +medium. + +When we came out of St. Justina’s, the azure of the sky and the softness +of the air inclined us to think of some excursion. Where could I wish to +go, but to the place in which I had been so delighted? Besides, it was +proper to make the C. another visit, and proper to see the Pisani palace, +which happily I had before neglected. All these proprieties considered, +M. de R. accompanied me to Fiesso. + +The sun was just sunk when we arrived; the whole ether in a glow, and the +fragrance of the arched citron alleys delightful. Beneath them I walked +in the cool, till the Galuzzi began once more her enchanting melody. She +sung till the moon tempted the fascinating G—a and myself to stray on the +banks of the Brenta. A profound calm reigned upon the woods and the +waters, and moonlight added serenity to a scene naturally peaceful. We +listened to the faint murmurs of the leaves, and the distant rural +noises, observing the gleams that quivered on the river, and discovered a +mutual delight in contemplating the same objects. + +We supped late: before the Galuzzi had repeated the airs which had most +affected me, morning began to dawn. + +_September_ 8_th_.—It was evening, and I was still asleep; not in a +tranquil slumber, but at the mercy of fantastic visions. The want of +sound repose had thrown me into a feverish impatient mood, that was alone +to be subdued by harmony. Scarcely had I snatched some slight +refreshment, before I flew to the great organ at St. Justina’s, but +tried, this time, to compose myself in vain. M. de R., finding my +endeavours unsuccessful, proposed, by way of diverting my attention, that +we should set out immediately for one of the Euganean hills about five or +seven miles from Padua, at the foot of which some antique baths had very +lately been discovered. I consented, without hesitation, little +concerned whither I went, or what happened to me, provided the scene was +often shifted. The lanes and enclosures we passed on our road to the +hills, appeared in all the gaiety that verdure, flowers, and sunshine +could give them. But my pleasures were overcast, and I beheld every +object, however cheerful, through a dusky medium. Deeply engaged in +conversation, distance made no impression; and we beheld the meadows, +over which the ruins are scattered, lie before us, when we still imagined +ourselves several miles away. Had I but enjoyed my former serenity, how +agreeably would such a landscape have affected my imagination! How +lightly should I not have run over the herbage, and viewed the irregular +shrubby hills, diversified with clumps of cypress, verdant spots, and +pastoral cottages, such as Zuccarelli loved to paint! No scene could be +more smiling than this which here presented itself, or answer, in a +fuller degree, the ideas I had formed of Italy. + +Leaving our carriage at the entrance of the mead, we traversed its +flowery surface, and shortly perceived among the grass an oblong basin, +incrusted with pure white marble. Most of the slabs are large and +perfect, apparently brought from Greece, and still retaining their +polished smoothness. The pipes to convey the waters are still +discernible; in short, the whole ground-plan may be easily traced. +Nothing more remains: the pillars and arcades are fallen, and one or two +pedestals alone vouch for their former existence. Near the principal +bath, we remarked the platforms of several circular apartments, paved +with mosaic, in a neat simple taste, far from inelegant. Weeds have not +yet sprung up amongst the crevices; and the universal freshness of the +ruin shows that it has not been long exposed. + +Theodoric is the prince to whom these structures are attributed; and +Cassiodorus, the prime chronicler of the country, is quoted to maintain +the supposition. My spirit was too much engaged to make any learned +parade, or to dispute upon a subject, which I abandon, with all its +glories, to calmer and less impatient minds. + +Having taken a cursory view of the ruins in the mead, we ascended the +hill which borders upon it, and surveyed a prospect of the same nature, +though in a more lovely and expanded style, than that which I beheld from +Mosolente. Padua crowns the landscape, with its towers and cupolas +rising from a continued grove; and, from the drawings I have seen, I +should conjecture that Damascus presents somewhat of a similar +appearance. + +Taking our eyes off this extensive prospect, we turned them to the +fragments beneath our feet. The walls appear plainly composed of the +_opus reticulatum_ so universal in the environs of Naples. A sort of +terrace, with the bases of columns circling the mount, leads me to +imagine here were formerly arcades and porticos, for enjoying the view; +for on the summit I could trace no vestiges of any considerable +structure, and am therefore inclined to conclude, that nothing more than +a colonnade surrounded the hill, leading perhaps to some slight fane, or +pavilion, for the recreation of the bathers below. + +A profusion of aromatic flowers covered the slopes, and exhaled +additional perfumes, as the sun declined, and the still hour approached, +which was wont to spread over my mind a divine composure, and to restore +the tranquillity I might have lost in the day. But now it diffused in +vain its reviving coolness, and I remained, if possible, more sad and +restless than before. + +To produce such a revolution, divine how I must have been fascinated! and +be not surprised at my repeating all the way that pathetic sonnet of +Petrarch: + + “O giorno, o ora, o ultimo momento, + O stelle congiurate a ’mpoverirme! + O fido sguardo, or che volei tu dirme, + Partend’ io, per non esser mai contento?” + +_September_ 9_th_.—You may imagine how I felt when the hour of leaving +Padua drew near. It happened to be a high festival, and mass celebrated +at the grand church of St. Anthony, with more than ordinary splendour. +The music drawing us thither, we found every chapel twinkling with +lights, and the choir filled with a vapour of incense. Through its +medium several cloth of gold figures discovered themselves, ministering +before the altar, and acting their parts with a sacred pomposity, +wonderfully imposing. I attended very little to their functions, but the +plaintive tones of the voices and instruments, so consonant with my own +feelings, melted me into tears, and gave me, no doubt, the exterior of +exalted piety. Guadazni sang amongst the other musicians, but seemed to +be sinking apace into devotion and obscurity. The ceremony ended, I took +leave of M. de R. with sincere regret, and was driven away to Vicenza. +Of my journey I scarce know any more than that the evening was cold and +rainy, that I shivered and was miserable. + +_September_ 10_th_.—The morning being overcast, I went, full of the +spirit of Æschylus, to the Olympic Theatre, and vented my evil temper in +reciting some of the most tremendous verses of his furies. The august +front of the scene, and its three grand streets of fanes and palaces, +inspired me with the loftiest sentiments of the Grecian drama; but the +dubious light admitted through windows, scarce visible between the rows +of statues which crown the entablature, sunk me into fits of gloom and +sadness. I mused a long while in the darkest and most retired recess of +the edifice, fancying I had penetrated into a real and perfect monument +of antiquity, which till this moment had remained undiscovered. It is +impossible to conceive a structure more truly classical, or to point out +a single ornament which has not the best antique authority. I am not in +the least surprised that the citizens of Vicenza enthusiastically gave in +to Palladio’s plan, and sacrificed large sums to erect so beautiful a +model. When finished, they procured, at a vast expense, the +representation of a Grecian tragedy, with its chorus and majestic +decorations. You can enter into the rapture of an artist, who sees his +fondest vision realized; and can easily conceive how it was, that +Palladio esteemed this compliment the most flattering reward. After I +had given scope to the fancies which the scene suggested, we set out for +Verona. + +The situation is striking and picturesque. A long line of battlement +walls, flanked by venerable towers, mounts the hill in a grand irregular +sweep, and incloses many a woody garden and grove of slender cypress. +Beyond rises an awful assembly of mountains; opposite to which a fertile +plain presents itself, decked with all the variety of meads and thickets, +olive-grounds and vineyards. + +Amongst these our road kept winding till we entered the city gate, and +passed (the post knows how many streets and alleys in the way!) to the +inn, a lofty, handsome-looking building; but so full that we were obliged +to take up with an apartment on its very summit, open to all the winds, +like the magic chamber Apuleius mentions, and commanding the roofs of +half Verona. Here and there a pine shot up amongst them, and the shady +hills, terminating the perspective with their walls and turrets, formed a +romantic scene. + +Placing our table in a balcony, to enjoy the prospect with greater +freedom, we feasted upon fish from the Lago di Garda, and the delicious +fruits of the country,—grapes worthy of Canaan, and peaches such as Eden +itself might have gloried in producing. Thus did I remain, solacing +myself, breathing the cool air, and remarking the evening tints of the +mountains. Neither the paintings of Count this, nor the antiquities of +the Marquis t’other, could tempt me from my aërial situation; I refused +hunting out the famous Paolos scattered over the town, and sat like the +owl in the Georgics, + + “Solis et occasom servans de culmine summo.” + +Twilight drawing on, I left my haunt, and stealing downstairs, inquired +for a guide to conduct me to the amphitheatre, perhaps the most entire +monument of Roman days. The people of the house, instead of bringing me +a quiet peasant, officiously delivered me up to a professed antiquary, +one of those diligent plausible young men, to whom, God help me! I have +so capital an aversion. This sweet spark displayed all his little +erudition, and flourished away upon cloacas and vomitoriums with eternal +fluency. He was very profound in the doctrine of conduits, and knew to +admiration how the filthiness of all the amphitheatre was disposed of; +but perceiving my inattention, and having just grace enough to remark +that I chose one side of the street when he preferred the other, and +sometimes trotted through despair in the kennel, he made me a pretty bow, +I threw him half-a-crown, and seeing the ruins before me, traversed a +gloomy arcade and emerged alone into the arena. A smooth turf covers its +surface, from which a spacious row of gradines rises to a majestic +elevation. Four arches, with their simple Doric ornament, alone remain +of the grand circle which once lifted itself above the highest seats of +the amphitheatre; and, had it not been for Gothic violence, this part of +the structure would have equally resisted the ravages of time. Nothing +can be more exact than the preservation of the gradines; not a block has +sunk from its place, and whatever trifling injuries they may have +received have been carefully repaired. The two chief entrances are +rebuilt with solidity and closed by portals, no passage being permitted +through the theatre except at public shows and representations, sometimes +still given in the arena. + +When I paced slowly across it, silence reigned undisturbed amongst the +awful ruins, and nothing moved, save the weeds and grasses which skirt +the walls and tremble with the faintest breeze. + + [Picture: Verona and Venice—the Ducal Palace] + +I liked the idea of being thus shut in on every side by endless gradines, +abandoned to a stillness and solitude I was so peculiarly disposed to +taste. Throwing myself upon the grass in the middle of the arena, I +enjoyed the freedom of my situation; and pursued the last tracks of +light, as they faded behind the solitary arches, which rose above the +rest. Red and fatal were the tints of the western sky; the wind blew +chill and hollow, and something more than common seemed to issue from the +withering herbage on the walls. I started up, fled through a dark +arcade, where water falls drop by drop, and arrived, panting, in the +great square before the ruins. Directing my steps across it, I reached +an ancient castle, once inhabited by the Scaligeri, sovereigns of Verona. +Hard by appeared the ruins of a triumphal arch, which most antiquarians +ascribe to Vitruvius, enriched with delicate scrolls and flowery +ornaments. I could have passed half-an-hour very agreeably in copying +these elegant sculptures; but night covering them with her shades, I +returned home to the Corso; where the outlines of several palaces, +designed by Michel San Michele, attracted my attention. But it was too +dusky to examine their details. + +_September_ 11_th_.—Traversing once more the grand piazza, and casting a +last glance upon the amphitheatre, we passed under a lofty arch which +terminates the perspective, and left Verona by a wide, irregular, +picturesque street, commanding, whenever you look back, a striking scene +of towers, cypress, and mountains. + +The country, between this beautiful town and Mantua, presents one +continued grove of dwarfish mulberries, among which start up innumerable +barren hills. Now and then a knot of poplars diversify their craggy +summits, and sometimes a miserable shed. Mantua itself rises out of a +morass formed by the Mincio, whose course, in most places, is so choked +up with reeds as to be scarcely discernible. It requires a creative +imagination to discover any charms in such a prospect, and a strong +prepossession not to be disgusted with the scene where Virgil was born. +For my own part, I approached this neighbourhood with proper deference, +and began to feel the God, but finding no tufted tree on which I could +suspend my lyre, or verdant bank which invited to repose, I abandoned +poetry and entered the city in despair. + +The beating of drums, and sight of German whiskers, finished what +croaking frogs and stagnant ditches had begun. Every classic idea being +scared by such sounds and such objects, I dined in dudgeon, and refused +stirring out till late in the evening. + +A few paces from the town stand the remains of the palace where the +Gonzagas formerly resided. This I could not resist looking at, and was +amply rewarded. Several of the apartments, adorned by the bold pencil of +Julio Romano, merit the most exact attention; and the grotesques, with +which the stucco ceilings are covered, equal the celebrated loggios of +the Vatican. I don’t recollect ever having seen these elegant designs +engraven, and believe it would be perfectly worth the pains of some +capital artist to copy them. Being in fresco upon damp neglected walls, +each year diminishes their number, and every winter moulders some +beautiful figure away. + +The subjects, mostly from antique fables, are treated with all the purity +and gracefulness of Raphael. Amongst others the story of Polypheme is +very conspicuous. Acis appears, reclined with his beloved Galatea, on +the shore of the ocean, whilst their gigantic enemy, seated above on the +brow of Ætna, seems by the paleness and horrors of his countenance to +meditate some terrible revenge. + +When it was too late to examine the paintings any longer, I walked into a +sort of court, or rather garden, which had been decorated with fountains +and antique statues. Their fragments still remain amongst weeds and beds +of flowers, for every corner of the place is smothered with vegetation. +Here nettles grow thick and rampant: there, tuberoses and jessamine cling +around mounds of ruins, which during the elegant reign of the Gonzagas +led to grottos and subterranean apartments, concealed from vulgar eyes, +and sacred to the most refined enjoyments. I gathered a tuberose that +sprang from a shell of white marble, once trickling with water, now half +filled with mould, and carrying it home, shut myself up for the rest of +the night, inhaled its perfume, and fell a-dreaming. + +_September_ 12_th_.—A shower having fallen, the air was refreshed, and +the drops still glittered upon the vines, through which our road +conducted us. Three or four miles from Mantua the scene changed to +extensive grounds of rice, and meads of the tenderest verdure watered by +springs, whose frequent meanders gave to the whole prospect the +appearance of a vast green carpet shot with silver. Further on we +crossed the Po, and passing Guastalla, entered a woody country full of +inclosures and villages; herds feeding in the meadows, and poultry +parading before every wicket. + +The peasants were busied in winnowing their corn; or, mounted upon the +elms and poplars, gathering the rich clusters from the vines that hang +streaming in braids from one branch to another. I was surprised to find +myself already in the midst of the vintage, and to see every road crowded +with carts and baskets bringing it along; you cannot imagine a pleasanter +scene. + +Round Reggio it grew still more lively, and on the other side of that +agreeable little city, I remarked many a cottage that Tityrus might have +inhabited, with its garden and willow hedge in flower, swarming with +bees. Our road, the smoothest conceivable, led us, perhaps too rapidly, +by so cheerful a landscape. I caught glimpses of fields and copses as we +fled along, that could have afforded me amusement for hours, and orchards +on gentle acclivities, beneath which I could have walked till evening. +The trees literally bent under their loads of fruit, and innumerable +ruddy apples lay scattered upon the ground— + + “Strata jacent passim sus quæque sub arbore poma.” + +Beyond these rich masses of foliage, to which the sun lent additional +splendour, at the utmost extremity of the pastures, rose the irregular +ridge of the Apennines, whose deep blue presented a striking contrast to +the glowing colours of the foreground. I fixed my eyes on the chain of +distant mountains, and indulged, as usual, my conjectures of what was +going forward on their summits; of those who tended goats on the edge of +the precipice; traversed, at this moment, the dark thickets of pines, and +passed their lives in yonder sheds, contented and unknown. Such were the +dreams that filled my fancy, and kept it incessantly employed till it was +dusk, and the moon began to show herself; the same moon which, but a few +days ago, had seen me so happy at Fiesso. Her soft light reposed upon +the meads, that had been newly mown, and the shadows of tall poplars were +cast aslant them. I left my carriage, and running into the dim haze, +abandoned myself to the recollection it inspired. During an hour, I kept +continually flying forwards; bounding from enclosure to enclosure like a +hunted antelope, and forgetting where I was or whither I was going. One +sole idea filled my mind, and led me on with such heedless rapidity, that +I stumbled over stones and bushes, and entangled myself on every wreath +of vines which opposed my progress. At length, having wandered where +chance or the wildness of my fancy led, till the lateness of the evening +alarmed me, I regained the chaise as fast as I could, and arrived between +ten and eleven at the place of my destination. + +_September_ 13_th_.—Having but a moment or two at liberty, I hurried +early in the morning to the palace, and entered an elegant Ionic court, +with arcades of the whitest stone, through which I caught peeps of a +clear blue sky and groves of cypresses. Some few good paintings still +adorn the apartments, but the best part of the collection has been +disposed of, for a hundred thousand sequins, amongst which was that +inestimable picture, the Notte of Corregio. An excellent copy remained +and convinced me the original was not undeservedly celebrated. None but +the pencil of Corregio ever designed such graceful angels, nor imagined +such a pearly dawn to cast around them. Ten thousand times, I dare say, +has the subject of the Nativity been treated, and as many painters have +failed in rendering it so pleasing. The break of day, the first smiles +of the celestial infant, and the truth, the simplicity of every +countenance, cannot be too warmly admired. In the other rooms, no +picture gave me more pleasure than Jacob’s Vision by Domenico Feti. I +gazed several minutes at the grand confusion of clouds and seraphim +descending around the patriarch, and wished for a similar dream. + +Having spent the little time I had remaining in contemplating this +object, I hastened from the palace and left Modena. + + [Picture: Bologna] + +We traversed a champagne country in our way to Bologna, whose richness +and fertility increased in proportion as we drew near that celebrated +mart of lap-dogs and sausages. A chain of hills commands the city, +variegated with green inclosures and villas innumerable, almost every one +of which has its grove of chestnuts and cypresses. On the highest +acclivity of this range appears the magnificent convent of Madonna del +Monte, embosomed in wood, and joined to the town by a corridor a league +in length. This vast portico, ascending the steeps and winding amongst +the thickets, sometimes concealed and sometimes visible, produces an +effect wonderfully grand and singular. I longed to have mounted the +height by so extraordinary a passage; and hope on some future day to be +better acquainted with Saint Maria del Monte. + +At present I thought of little else, to say truth, but what I had seen at +Fiesso; and what I was to hear at Lucca. The anxiety inspired by the +one, and impatience by the other, rendered me shamefully insensible to +the merits of Bologna (where I passed near two hours), and of which I can +add nothing but that it is very much out of humour, an earthquake and +Cardinal Buoncompagni having disarranged both land and people. For +half-a-year the ground continued trembling; and for these last months, +the legate and senators have grumbled and scratched incessantly; so that, +between natural and political commotions, the Bolognese must have passed +an agreeable summer. + +Such a report of the situation of things, you may suppose, was not likely +to retard my journey. I put off delivering my letters to another +opportunity; ran up a tall slender tower as high as the Campanile di San +Marco, by way of exercise; and proceeded immediately after dinner towards +the mountains. We were soon in the midst of crags and stony channels, +that stream with ten thousand rills in the winter season, but during the +summer months reflect every sunbeam, and harbour half the scorpions in +the country. + +For many a toilsome league our prospect consisted of nothing but dreary +hillocks and intervening wastes, more barren and mournful than those to +which Mary Magdalene retired. Sometimes a crucifix or chapel peeped out +of the parched fern and grasses, with which these desolate fields are +clothed; and now and then we met a goggle-eyed pilgrim trudging along, +and staring about him as if he waited only for night and opportunity to +have additional reasons for hurrying to Jerusalem. + +During three or four hours that we continued ascending, the scene +increased in sterility and desolation; but, at the end of our second +post, the landscape began to alter for the better: little green valleys +at the base of tremendous steeps, discovered themselves, scattered over +with oaks, and freshened with running waters, which the nakedness of the +impending rocks set off to advantage. The sides of the cliffs in general +consist of rude misshapen masses; but their summits are smooth and +verdant, and continually browsed by herds of white goats, which were +gambolling on the edge of the precipices as we passed beneath. + +I joined one of these frisking assemblies, whose shadows were stretched +by the setting sun along the level herbage. There I sat a few minutes +whilst they shook their beards at me, and tried to scare me with all +their horns; but I was not to be frightened, and would offer up my +adorations to departing day, in spite of their caperings. Being tired +with skipping and butting at me in vain, the whole herd trotted away, and +I after them. They led me a dance from crag to crag and from thicket to +thicket. + +It was growing dusky apace, and wreaths of smoke began to ascend from the +mysterious depths of the valleys. I was ignorant what monster inhabited +such retirements, so gave over my pursuit, lest some Polypheme or other +might make me repent it. I looked around, the carriage was out of sight; +but hearing the neighing of horses at a distance, I soon came up with +them, and mounted another rapid ascent, whence an extensive tract of +cliff and forest land was discernible. + +The rocks here formed a spacious terrace; along which I continued +surveying the distant groves, and marking the solemn approach of night. +The sky was hung with storms, and a pale moon seemed to advance with +difficulty amongst broken and tempestuous clouds. It was an hour to reap +plants with brazen sickles, and to meditate upon revenge. + +A chill wind blew from the highest peak of the Apennines, inspiring evil, +and making a dismal rustle amongst the woods of chestnut that hung on the +mountain’s side, through which we were forced to pass. I never heard +such fatal murmurs; nor felt myself so gloomily. I walked out of the +sound of the carriage, where the glimmering moonlight prevailed, and +began interpreting the language of the leaves, not greatly to my own +advantage or that of any being in the universe. I was no prophet of +good, but full of melancholy bodings, and something that bordered upon +despair. Had I but commanded an oracle, as ancient visionaries were +wont, I should have thrown whole nations into dismay. + +How long I continued in this strange temper I cannot pretend to say, but +believe it was midnight before we emerged from the oracular forest, and +saw faintly before us the huts of Lognone, where we were to sleep. This +blessed hamlet is suspended on the brow of a bleak mountain, and every +gust that stirs shakes the whole village to its foundations. At our +approach two hags stalked forth with lanterns and invited us with a grin, +which I shall always remember, to a dish of mustard and crow’s gizzards, +a dish I was more than half afraid of tasting, lest it should change me +to some bird of darkness, condemned to mope eternally on the black +rafters of the cottage. + +After repeated supplications we procured a few eggs, and some faggots to +make a fire. Its blaze gave me courage to hear the hollow blasts that +whistled in the crevices; and pitching my bed in a warm corner, I soon +fell asleep, and forgot all my cares and inquietudes. + +_September_ 14_th_.—The sun had not been long above the horizon, before +we set forward upon a craggy pavement hewn out of the rough bosom of the +cliffs and precipices. Scarce a tree was visible, and the few that +presented themselves began already to shed their leaves. The raw nipping +air of this desert with difficulty spares a blade of vegetation; and in +the whole range of these extensive eminences I could not discover a +single corn-field or pasture. Inhabitants, you may guess, there were +none. I would defy even a Scotch highlander to find means of subsistence +in so rude a soil. + +Towards midday, we had surmounted the dreariest part of our journey, and +began to perceive a milder landscape. The climate improved as well as +the prospect, and after a continual descent of several hours, we saw +groves and villages in the dips of the hills, and met a string of mules +and horses laden with fruit. I purchased some figs and peaches from this +little caravan, and spreading my repast upon a bank, baked in the +sunshine, and gathered large spikes of lavender in full bloom. + +Continuing our route, we bid adieu to the realms of poverty and +barrenness, and entered a cultivated vale sheltered by woody acclivities. +Among these we wound along, the peasants singing upon the hill, and +driving their cattle to springs by the road’s side; near one of which we +dined in a patriarchal manner, and afterwards pursued our course through +a grove of taper cypresses, waving with the cool gales of the evening. +The heights were suffused with a ruddy glow, proceeding from the light +pink clouds which floated on the horizon. No others were to be seen. +All nature seemed in a happy tranquil state; the herds penned in their +folds, and every rustic going to repose. I shared the general calm for +the first time this many a tedious hour; and traversed the dales in +peace, abandoned to flattering hopes and gay illusions. The full moon +shone propitiously upon me as I ascended a hill, and discovered Florence +at a distance, surrounded with gardens and terraces, rising one above +another. The serene moonlight on the pale grey tints of the olive, gave +an Elysian, visionary appearance to the landscape. I never beheld so +mild a sky, nor such soft gleams: the mountains were veiled in azure +mists, which concealed their rugged summits; and the plains in vapours, +that smoothed their irregularities, and diffused a faint aërial hue, to +which no description can render justice. I could have contemplated such +scenery for hours, and was sorry when I found myself shut up from it by +the gates of Florence. We passed several lofty palaces of the true +Tuscan order, with rustic arcades and stout columns, whose solidity and +magnificence were not diminished by the shades of midnight. Whilst these +grand masses lay dark and solemn, the smooth flagstone, with which every +street is paved, received a chequered gleam, and the Arno, the brightest +radiance. Though tired with my jumble over the Apennines, I could not +resist the temptation of walking upon the banks of so celebrated a river, +and crossing its bridges, which still echoed with music and conversation. +Having gratified the first impulse of curiosity, I returned to Vaninis, +and slept as well as my impatience would allow, till it was time next +morning (September 15th), to visit the gallery, and worship the Venus de +Medicis. I felt, upon entering this world of taste and elegance, as if I +could have taken up my abode in it for ever; but confused with the +multitude of objects, I knew not where to turn myself, and ran childishly +by the ample ranks of sculptures, like a butterfly in a parterre, that +skims before it fixes, over ten thousand flowers. + +Having taken my course down one side of the gallery, I turned the angle +and discovered another long perspective, equally stored with prodigies of +bronze and marble; paintings on the walls, on the ceilings, in short, +everywhere. A minute brought me, vast as it was, to the extremity of +this range; then, flying down a third, adorned in the same delightful +manner, I paused under the bust of Jupiter Olympius; and began to reflect +a little more maturely upon the company in which I found myself. +Opposite, appeared the majestic features of Minerva, breathing divinity; +and Cybele, the mother of the gods. + +I bowed low to these awful powers, but seeing a black figure just by, +whose attitude seemed to announce the deity of sleep, I made immediately +up to it. You know my fondness for this drowsy personage, and that it is +not the first time I have quitted the most splendid society for him. I +found him, at present, of touchstone, with the countenance of a towardly +brat, sleeping ill through indigestion. The artist had not conceived +such high ideas of the god as live in my bosom, or else he never would +have represented him with so little grace or dignity. + +Displeased at finding my favourite subject profaned, I perceived the +lively transports of enthusiasm began in some degree to be dissipated, +and I felt myself calm enough to follow the herd of guides and spectators +from chamber to chamber and cabinet to cabinet, without falling into +errors of rapture and inspiration. We were led slowly and moderately +through the large rooms, containing the portraits of painters, good, bad, +and indifferent, from Raffaelle to Liotard; then into a museum of +bronzes, which would afford both amusement and instruction for years. + +To one who can never behold an ancient lamp or tripod without the +associations of those who sacrificed on the one and meditated by the +other, imagine what pleasures such a repository must have communicated. + +When I had alarmed, not satisfied, my curiosity by rapidly running over +this multitude of candelabra, urns, and sacred utensils, we entered a +small luminous apartment, surrounded with cases richly decorated, and +filled with the most exquisite models of workmanship in bronze and +various metals, classed in exact order. Here are crowds of diminutive +deities and tutelary lars, to whom the superstition of former days +attributed those midnight murmurs which were believed to presage the +misfortunes of a family. Amongst these now neglected images are +preserved a vast number of talismans, cabalistic amulets, and other +grotesque relics of ancient credulity. + +In the centre of the room, I remarked a table, beautifully formed of +polished gems, and, hard by it, the statue of a genius with his familiar +serpent, and all his attributes; the guardian of the treasured +antiquities. From this chamber we were conducted into another, which +opens to that part of the gallery where the busts of Adrian and Antinous +are placed. Two pilasters, delicately carved in trophies and clusters of +ancient armour, stand on each side of the entrance; within are several +perfumed cabinets of miniatures, and a single column of Oriental +alabaster about ten feet in height, + + “Lucido e terso, e bianco, più che latte.” + +I put my guide’s patience to the proof, by remaining much longer than any +one else ever did, in admiring the pillar, and rummaging the drawers of +the cabinets. At last, the musk with which they are impregnated obliged +me to desist, and I moved on to a suite of saloons, with low arched +roofs, glittering with arabesque, in azure and gold. Several medallions +appear amongst the wreaths of foliage, tolerably well painted, with +representations of splendid feasts and tournaments for which Florence was +once so famous. + +A vast collection of small pictures, most of them Flemish, covers the +walls of these apartments. But nothing struck me more than a Medusa’s +head by that surprising genius Leonardo da Vinci. It appears just +severed from the body, and cast on the damp pavement of a cavern: a +deadly paleness covers the countenance, and the mouth exhales a +pestilential vapour: the snakes, which fill almost the whole picture, +beginning to untwist their folds; one or two seemed already crept away, +and crawling up the rock in company with toads and other venomous +reptiles. + +The colouring of these disgustful objects is faithful to a great degree; +the effect of light, prodigious; the whole so masterly that I could not +help entering into this description; though I fear to little purpose, as +words at best convey but a weak idea of objects addressed to the sight +alone. + +Here are a great many Polemburgs: one in particular, the strangest I ever +beheld. Instead of those soft scenes of woods and waterfalls he is in +general so fond of representing, he has chosen for his subject Virgil +ushering Dante into the regions of eternal punishment, amidst the ruins +of flaming edifices that glare across the infernal waters. These +mournful towers harbour innumerable shapes, all busy in preying upon the +damned. One capital devil, in the form of an enormous lobster, seems +very strenuously employed in mumbling a miserable mortal, who sprawls, +though in vain, to escape from his claws. This performance, whimsical as +it is, retains all that softness of tint and delicacy of pencil for which +Polemburg is so renowned. + +Had not the subject so palpably contradicted the execution as to become +remarkable, I should have passed it over, like a thousand more, and +brought you immediately to the Tribune. I dare say our sensations were +similar on entering this apartment. Need I say I was enchanted the +moment I set my feet within it, and saw full before me the Venus de +Medicis? The warm ivory hue of the original marble is a beauty no copy +has ever imitated, and the softness of the limbs exceeded the liveliest +idea I had formed to myself of their perfection. + +Their symmetry every artist is acquainted with; but do you recollect a +faint ruddy cast in the hair, which admirably relieves the whiteness of +the forehead? This circumstance, though perhaps accidental, struck me as +peculiarly charming; it increased the illusion, and helped me to imagine +I beheld a breathing divinity. + +When I had taken my eyes reluctantly from this beautiful object, I cast +them upon a Morpheus of white marble, which lies slumbering at the feet +of the goddess in the form of a graceful child. A dormant lion serves +him for a pillow: two ample wings, carved with the utmost delicacy, are +gathered under him; two others, budding from his temples, half concealed +by a flow of lovely ringlets. His languid hands scarce hold a bunch of +poppies: near him creeps a lizard, just yielding to his influence. +Nothing can be more just than the expression of sleep in the countenance +of the little divinity. His lion too seems perfectly lulled, and rests +his muzzle upon his fore-paws as quiet as a domestic mastiff. I +contemplated the god with infinite satisfaction, till I felt an agreeable +sleepiness steal over my senses, and should have liked very well to doze +away a few hours by his side. My ill-humour at seeing this deity so +grossly sculptured in the gallery, was dissipated by the gracefulness of +his appearance in the Tribune. I was now contented, for the artist, (to +whom the Lord give a fair seat in paradise!) had realized my ideas; and, +if I may venture my opinion, sculpture never arrived to higher +perfection, or, at the same time, kept more justly within its province. +Sleeping figures with me always produce the finest illusion. I easily +persuade myself that I behold the very personage, cast into the lethargic +state which is meant to be represented, and I can gaze whole hours upon +them with complacency. But when I see an archer in the very act of +discharging his arrow, a dancer with one foot in the air, or a gladiator +extending his fist to all eternity, I grow tired, and ask, When will they +perform what they are about? When will the bow twang? the foot come to +the ground? or the fist meet its adversary? Such wearisome attitudes I +can view with admiration, but never with pleasure. The wrestlers, for +example, in the same apartment, filled me with disgust: I cried out, For +heaven’s sake! give the throw, and have done. In taking my turn round +the enchanted circle, I discovered still, another Morpheus; stretched +carelessly on a mantle, with poppies in his hands; but no wings grow from +his temples, nor lion supports his head. A moth just issuing from his +chrysalis is the only being which seems to have felt his soporific +influence; whereas the other god I have mentioned may vaunt the glory of +subduing the most formidable of animals. + +The morning was gone before I could snatch myself from the Tribune. In +my way home, I looked into the cathedral, an enormous fabric, inlaid with +the richest marbles, and covered with stars and chequered work, like an +old-fashioned cabinet. The architect seems to have turned his building +inside out; nothing in art being more ornamented than the exterior, and +few churches so simple within. The nave is vast and solemn, the dome +amazingly spacious, with the high altar in its centre, inclosed by a +circular arcade near two hundred feet in diameter. There is something +imposing in this decoration, as it suggests the idea of a sanctuary, into +which none but the holy ought to penetrate. However profane I might feel +myself, I took the liberty of entering, and sat myself down in a niche. +Not a ray of light reaches this sacred inclosure, but through the medium +of narrow windows, high in the dome and richly painted. A sort of yellow +tint predominates, which gives additional solemnity to the altar, and +paleness to the votary before it. I was sensible of the effect, and +obtained at least the colour of sanctity. + +Having remained some time in this pious hue, I returned home and feasted +upon grapes and ortolans with great edification; then walked to one of +the bridges across the Arno, and surveyed the hills at a distance, +purpled by the declining sun. Its mild beams tempted me to the garden of +Boboli, which lies behind the Palazzo Pitti, stretched out on the side of +a mountain. I ascended terrace after terrace, robed by a thick underwood +of hay and myrtle, above which rise several nodding towers, and a long +sweep of venerable wall, almost entirely concealed by ivy. You would +have been enraptured with the broad masses of shade and dusky alleys that +opened as I advanced, with white statues of fauns and sylvans glimmering +amongst them; some of which pour water into sarcophagi of the purest +marble, covered with antique relievos. The capitals of columns and +ancient friezes are scattered about as seats. + +On these I reposed myself, and looked up to the cypress groves spiring +above the thickets; then, plunging into their retirements, I followed a +winding path, which led me by a series of steep ascents to a green +platform overlooking the whole extent of wood, with Florence deep +beneath, and the tops of the hills which encircle it, jagged with pines; +here and there a convent, or villa, whitening in the sun. This scene +extends as far as the eye can reach. + +Still ascending I attained the brow of the mountain, and had nothing but +the fortress of Belvedere, and two or three open porticos above me. On +this elevated situation, I found several walks of trellis-work, clothed +with luxuriant vines, that produce to my certain knowledge the most +delicious clusters. A colossal statue of Ceres, her hands extended in +the act of scattering fertility over the prospect, crowns the summit, +where I lingered to mark the landscape fade, and the bright skirts of the +western sun die gradually away. + +Then descending alley after alley, and bank after bank, I came to the +orangery in front of the palace, disposed in a grand amphitheatre, with +marble niches relieved by dark foliage, out of which spring tall aërial +cypresses. This spot brought the scenery of an antique Roman garden full +into my mind. I expected every instant to be called to the table of +Lucullus hard by, in one of the porticoes, and to stretch myself on his +purple triclinias; but waiting in vain for a summons till the approach of +night, I returned delighted with a ramble that had led me so far into +antiquity. + +_Friday_, _September_ 16_th_.—My impatience to hear Pacchierotti called +me up with the sun. I blessed a day which was to give me the greatest of +musical pleasures, and travelled gaily towards Lucca, along a fertile +plain, bounded by rocky hills, and scattered over with towns and +villages. We passed Pistoia in haste, and about three in the afternoon +entered the Lucchese territory, by a clean, paved road, which runs +through some of the pleasantest copses imaginable, bordered with a +variety of heaths and broom in blossom. Sometimes it conducted us down +slopes, overgrown with shrubby chestnuts and arbor vitæ; sometimes +between groves of cypresses and pines laden with cones: a red soil +peeping forth from the vegetation adds to the richness of the landscape, +which swells all the way into gentle acclivities: and at about seven or +eight miles from the city spreads into mountains, green to their very +summits, and diversified with gardens and palaces. A more pleasing +scenery can with difficulty be imagined: I was quite charmed with +beholding it, as I knew very well that the opera would keep me a long +while chained down in its neighbourhood. + +Happy for me that the environs of Lucca were so beautiful; since I defy +almost any city to contain more ugliness within its walls. Narrow +streets and dismal alleys; wide gutters and cracked pavements; everybody +in black, like mourners for the gloom of their habitations, which, +however, are large and lofty enough of conscience; but having all grated +windows, they convey none but dark and dungeon-like ideas. My spirits +fell many degrees upon entering this sable capital; and when I found +Friday was meagre day, in every sense of the word, with its inhabitants, +and no opera to be performed, I grew terribly out of humour, and shut +myself up in a chamber of the inn, which, to complete my misfortune, was +crowded with human lumber. Instead of a delightful symphony, I heard +nothing for some time but the clatter of plates and the swearing of +waiters. + +Amongst the number of my tormentors was a whole Genoese family of +distinction; very fat and sleek, and terribly addicted to the violin. +Hearing of my fondness for music, they speedily got together a few +scrapers, and began such an academia as drove me to one end of the room, +whilst they possessed the other. The hopes and heir of the family—a +coarse chubby dolt of about eighteen—played out of all time, and during +the interval of repose he gave his elbow, burst out into a torrent of +commonplace, which completed, you may imagine, my felicity. + +Pacchierotti, whom they all worshipped in their heavy way, sat silent the +while in a corner; the second soprano warbled, not absolutely ill, at the +harpsichord; whilst the old lady, young lady, and attendant females, kept +ogling him with great perseverance. Those who could not get in, squinted +through the crevices of the door. Abbés and greyhounds were fidgeting +continually without. In short, I was so worried that, pleading headaches +and lassitudes, I escaped about ten o’clock, and shook myself when I got +safe to my apartment, like a spaniel just fresh from a dripping copse. + + + + +LETTER XIV. + + + LUCCA, _September_ 25_th_. + +You ask me how I pass my time. Generally upon the hills, in wild spots +where the arbutus flourishes: from whence I may catch a glimpse of the +distant sea; my horse tied to a cypress, and myself cast upon the grass, +like Palmarin of Oliva, with a tablet and pencil in my hand, a basket of +grapes by my side, and a crooked stick to shake down the chestnuts. I +have bidden adieu, several days ago, to the dinners and glories of the +town, and only come thither in an evening, just time enough for the grand +march which precedes Pacchierotti in _Quinto Fabio_. Sometimes he +accompanies me in my excursions, to the utter discontent of the Lucchese, +who swear I shall ruin their opera, by leading him such confounded +rambles amongst the mountains, and exposing him to the inclemency of +winds and showers. One day they made a vehement remonstrance, but in +vain; for the next, away we trotted over hill and dale, and stayed so +late in the evening, that cold and hoarseness were the consequence. + +The whole republic was thrown into commotion, and some of its prime +ministers were deputed to harangue Pacchierotti upon the rides he had +committed. Billingsgate never produced such furious orators. Had the +safety of their mighty state depended upon this imprudent excursion, they +could not have vociferated with greater violence. You know I am rather +energetic, and, to say truth, I had very nearly got into a scrape of +importance, and drawn down the execrations of the Gonfalonier and all his +council upon my head, in defending him, and in openly declaring our +intention of taking, next morning, another ride over the rocks, and +absolutely losing ourselves in the clouds which veil their acclivities. +These threats were put into execution, and yesterday we made a tour of +about thirty miles upon the highlands, and visited a variety of castles +and palaces. + +The Conte Nobili conducted us, a noble Lucchese, but born in Flanders and +educated at Paris. He possesses the greatest elegance of imagination, +and a degree of sensibility rarely met with upon our gross planet. The +way did not appear tedious in such company. The sun was tempered by +light clouds, and a soft autumnal haze rested upon the hills, covered +with shrubs and olives. The distant plains and forests appeared tinted +with deep blue, and I am now convinced the azure so prevalent in Velvet +Breughel’s landscapes is not exaggerated. + +After riding for six or seven miles along the cultivated levels, we began +to ascend a rough slope, overgrown with chestnuts; here and there some +vines streaming in garlands displayed their clusters. A great many loose +fragments and stumps of ancient pomegranates perplexed our route, which +continued, turning and winding through this sort of wilderness, till it +opened on a sudden to the side of a lofty mountain, covered with tufted +groves, amongst which hangs the princely castle of the Garzonis, on the +very side of a precipice. + +Alcina could not have chosen a more romantic situation. The garden lies +extended beneath, gay with flowers, and glittering with compartments of +spar, which, though in no great purity of taste, has an enchanted effect +for the first time. Two large marble basins, with jet-d’eaux seventy +feet in height, divide the parterres; from the extremity of which rises a +rude cliff, shaded with firs and ilex, and cut into terraces. + +Leaving our horses at the great gate of this magic inclosure, we passed +through the spray of the fountains, and mounting an almost endless flight +of steps, entered an alley of oranges, and gathered ripe fruit from the +trees. Whilst we were thus employed, the sun broke from the clouds, and +lighted up the vivid green of the vegetation; at the same time spangling +the waters, which pour copiously down a succession of rocky terraces, and +sprinkle the impending citron-trees with perpetual dew. These streams +issue from a chasm in the cliff, surrounded by cypresses, which conceal +by their thick branches some pavilions with baths. Above arises a +colossal statue of Fame, boldly carved, and in the very act of starting +from the precipices. A narrow path leads up to the feet of the goddess, +on which I reclined; whilst a vast column of water arched over my head, +and fell, without even wetting me with its spray, into the depths below. + +I could with difficulty prevail upon myself to abandon this cool recess, +which the fragrance of bay and orange, extracted by constant showers, +rendered uncommonly luxurious. At last I consented to move on, through a +dark wall of ilex, which, to the credit of Signor Garzoni be it spoken, +is suffered to grow as wild and as forest-like as it pleases. This grove +is suspended on the mountain side, whose summit is clothed with a +boundless wood of olives, and forms, by its azure colour, a striking +contrast with the deep verdure of its base. + +After resting a few moments in the shade, we proceeded to a long avenue +(bordered by aloes in bloom, forming majestic pyramids of flowers thirty +feet high), which led us to the palace. This was soon run over. Then, +mounting our horses, we wound amongst sunny vales, and inclosures with +myrtle hedges, till we came to a rapid steep. We felt the heat most +powerfully in ascending it, and were glad to take refuge under a bower of +vines, which runs for miles along its summit, almost without +interruption. These arbours afforded us both shade and refreshment; I +fell upon the clusters which formed our ceiling, like a native of the +north, unused to such luxuriance: one of those Goths which Gray so +poetically describes, who + + “Scent the new fragrance of the breathing rose, + And quaff the pendent vintage as it grows.” + +I wish you had journeyed with us under this fruitful canopy, and observed +the partial sunshine through its transparent leaves, and the glimpses of +the blue sky it every now and then admitted. I say only every now and +then, for in most places a sort of verdant gloom prevailed, exquisitely +agreeable in so hot a day. + +But such luxury did not last, you may suppose, for ever. We were soon +forced from our covert, and obliged to traverse a mountain exposed to the +sun, which had dispersed every cloud, and shone with intolerable +brightness. On the other side of this extensive eminence lies an +agreeable hillock, surrounded by others, woody and irregular. Wide +vineyards and fences of Indian corn lay between, across which the Conte +Nobili conducted us to his house, where we found prepared a very +comfortable dinner. We drank the growth of the spot, and defied +Constantia and the Cape to excel it. + +Afterwards, retiring into a wood of the Marchese Mansi, with neat pebble +walks and trickling rivulets, we sipped coffee and loitered till sunset. +It was then time to return: the dews began to fall, and the mists to rise +from the valleys. The profound calm and silence of evening threw us all +three into our reveries. We went pacing along heedlessly, just as our +horses pleased, without hearing any sound but their steps. + +Between nine and ten we entered the gates of Lucca. Pacchierotti +coughed, and half its inhabitants wished us at the devil. + +I think now I have detained you long enough with my excursions: you must +require a little repose; for my own part, I am heartily tired. I +intended to say some things about certain owls, amongst other grievances +I am pestered with in this republic; but shall cut them all short, and +wish you good-night; for the opera is already begun, and I would not miss +the first glorious recitative for the empire of Trebizond. + + + + +LETTER XV. + + + LIVOURNO, _October_ 2_nd_. + +No sooner were we beyond the gates, than we found ourselves in narrow +roads, shut in by vines and grassy banks of canes and osiers, rising high +above our carriage, and waving their leaves in the air. Through the +openings which sometimes intervene we discovered a variety of hillocks +clothed with shrubberies and verdure, ruined towers looking out of the +bushes, not one without a romantic tale attending it. + +This sort of scenery lasted till, passing the baths, we beheld Pisa +rising from an extensive plain, the most open we had as yet seen in +Italy, crossed by an aqueduct. We were set down immediately before the +Duomo, which stands insulated in a verdant opening, and is by far the +most curious and highly finished edifice my eyes ever viewed. Don’t ask +of what shape or architecture; it is almost impossible to tell, so great +is the confusion of ornaments. The capitals of the columns and carvings +of the architraves, as well as the form of the arches, are evidently of +Grecian design, but Gothic proportions. The dome gives the mass an +Oriental appearance, which helped to bewilder me; in short, I have +dreamed of such buildings, but little thought they existed. On one side +you survey the famous tower, as perfectly awry as I expected; on the +other the baptistery, a circular edifice distinct from the church and +right opposite its principal entrance, crowded with sculptures and topped +by the strangest of cupolas. + +Having indulged our curiosity with this singular prospect for some +moments, we entered the cathedral and admired the stately columns of +porphyry and the rarest marbles, supporting a roof which, like the rest +of the building, shines with gold. A pavement of the brightest mosaic +completes its magnificence: all around are sculptures by M. Ang. +Buonaroti, and paintings by the most distinguished artists. We examined +them all, and then walked down the nave and remarked the striking effect +of the baptistery, seen in perspective through the bronze portals, which +you know, I suppose, are covered with relievos of the finest workmanship. +These noble valves were thrown wide open, and we passed between to +examine the alabaster fount in the baptistery, constructed after the +primitive ritual, and exquisitely wrought. Many palm trees appear +amongst the carved work, which seems to indicate the former connections +of the Pisanese with Palestine. + +Our next object was the Campo Santo, which forms one side of the opening +in which the cathedral is situated. The walls, and Gothic tabernacle +above the entrance, rising from a level turf, appear as fresh as if built +within the present century, and, preserving a neat straw colour, have the +cleanest effect imaginable. Our guide unlocking the gates, we entered a +spacious cloister, forming an oblong quadrangle, enclosing the sacred +earth of Jerusalem, conveyed hither about the period of the crusades, in +the days of Pisanese prosperity. The holy mould produces a rampant crop +of weeds, but none are permitted to spring from the pavement, which is +entirely composed of tombs with slabs and monumental inscriptions +smoothly laid. Ranges of slender pillars, formed of the whitest marble +and glistening in the sun, support the arcades, which are carved with +innumerable stars and roses, partly Gothic and partly Saracenial. +Strange paintings of hell and the devil, mostly taken from Dante’s +rhapsodies, cover the walls of these fantastic galleries, attributed to +the venerable Giotto and Bufalmacco, whom Boccace mentions in his +“Decamerone.” + +Beneath, along the base of the columns, rows of pagan sarcophagi are +placed, to my no small surprise, as I could not have supposed the +Pisanese sufficiently tolerant to admit profane sculptures within such +consecrated precincts. However, there they are, as well as fifty other +contradictory ornaments. + +I was quite seized by the strangeness of the place, and paced fifty times +round and round the cloisters, discovering at every time some odd +novelty. When tired, I seated myself on a fair slab of _giallo antico_, +that looked a little cleaner than its neighbours (which I only mention to +identify the precise point of view), and looking through the filigreed +covering of the arches, observed the domes of the cathedral, cupola of +the baptistery, and roof of the leaning tower rising above the leads, and +forming the strangest assemblage of pinnacles perhaps in Europe. The +place is neither sad nor solemn; the arches are airy, the pillars light, +and there is so much caprice, such an exotic look in the whole scene, +that without any violent effort of fancy one might imagine one’s self in +fairyland. Every object is new, every ornament original; the mixture of +antique sarcophagi with Gothic sepulchres, completes the vagaries of the +prospect, to which, one day or other, I think of returning, to act a +visionary part, hear visionary music, and commune with sprites, for I +shall never find in the whole universe besides so whimsical a theatre. +It was between ten and eleven when we entered the Campo Santo, and one +o’clock struck before I could be persuaded to leave it; and ’twas the sun +which then drove me away; whose heat was so powerful that all the +inhabitants of Pisa showed their wisdom by keeping within doors. Not an +animal appeared in the streets, except five camels laden with water, +stalking along a range of garden walls and pompous mansions, with an +awning before every door. We were obliged to follow their steps, at +least a quarter of a mile, before we reached our inn. Ice was the first +thing I sought after, and when I had swallowed an unreasonable portion, I +began not to think quite so much of the deserts of Africa, as the heat +and the camels had induced me a moment ago. + +Early in the afternoon, we proceeded to Livourno through a wild tract of +forest, somewhat in the style of our English parks. The trees in some +places formed such shady arbours, that we could not resist the desire of +walking beneath them, and were well rewarded; for after struggling +through a rough thicket, we entered a lawn hemmed in by oaks and +chestnuts, which extends several leagues along the coast and conceals the +prospect of the ocean; but we heard its murmurs. + +Nothing could be smoother or more verdant than the herbage, which was +sprinkled with daisies and purple crocuses, as in the month of May. I +felt all the genial sensations of Spring steal into my bosom, and was +greatly delighted upon discovering vast bushes of myrtle in bloom. The +softness of the air, the sound of the distant surges, the evening gleams, +and repose of the landscape, quieted the tumult of my spirits, and I +experienced the calm of my infant hours. I lay down in the open +turf-walks between the shrubberies, listlessly surveyed the cattle +browsing at a distance, and the blue hills that rose above the foliage, +and bounded the view. During a few moments I had forgotten every care; +but when I began to inquire into my happiness, I found it vanish. I felt +myself without those I love most, in situations they would have warmly +admired, and without them these pleasant meads and woodlands were of +little avail. + +We had not left this woody region far behind, when the Fanalè began to +lift itself above the horizon—the Fanalè you have so often mentioned; the +sky and ocean glowing with amber light, and the ships out at sea +appearing in a golden haze, of which we have no conception in our +northern climates. Such a prospect, together with the fresh gales from +the Mediterranean, charmed me; I hurried immediately to the port and sat +on a reef of rocks, listening to the waves that broke amongst them. + + + + +LETTER XVI. + + +_October_ 3_rd_.—I went, as you would have done, to walk on the mole as +soon as the sun began to shine upon it. Its construction you are no +stranger to; therefore I think I may spare myself the trouble of saying +anything about it, except that the port which it embraces is no longer +crowded. Instead of ten ranks of vessels there are only three, and those +consist chiefly of Corsican galleys, that look as poor and tattered as +their masters. Not much attention did I bestow upon such objects, but, +taking my seat at the extremity of the quay, surveyed the smooth plains +of ocean, the coast scattered over with watch-towers, and the rocky isle +of Gorgona, emerging from the morning mists, which still lingered upon +the horizon. + +Whilst I was musing upon the scene, and calling up all that train of +ideas before my imagination, which possessed your own upon beholding it, +an ancient figure, with a beard that would have suited a sea-god, stepped +out of a boat, and tottering up the steps of the quay, presented himself +before me with a basket in his hand. He stayed dripping a few moments +before he pronounced a syllable, and when he began his discourse, I was +in doubt whether I should not have moved off in a hurry, there was +something so wan and singular in his countenance. Except this being, no +other was visible for a quarter of a mile at least. I knew not what +strange adventure I might be upon the point of commencing, or what +message I was to expect from the submarine divinities. However, after +all my conjectures, the figure turned out to be no other than an old +fisherman, who, having picked up a few large branches of red coral, +offered them to sale. I eagerly made the purchase, and thought myself a +favourite of Neptune, since he allowed me to acquire for next to nothing +some of his most beautiful ornaments. + +My bargain thus expeditiously finished, I ran along the quay with my +basket of coral, and, jumping into a boat, was rowed back to the gate of +the port. The carriage waited there; I filled it with jasmine, shut +myself up in the shade of the green blinds, and was driven away at a rate +that favoured my impatience. We bowled smoothly over the lawns I +attempted describing in my last letter, amongst myrtles in flower, that +would have done honour to the island of Juan Fernandes. + +Arrived at Pisa, I scarcely allowed myself a moment to revisit the Campo +Santo, but, after taking my usual portion of ice and pomegranate-seeds, +hurried on to Lucca as fast as horses could carry me, threw the whole +idle town into a stare by my speedy return, and gave myself up to _Q. +Fabio_. + +Next day (October 4th) was passed in running over my old haunts upon the +hills, and bidding farewell to several venerable chestnuts, for which I +had contracted a sort of friendship by often experiencing their +protection. I could not help feeling some melancholy sensation when I +turned round the last time to bid them adieu. Who knows but some dryad +enclosed within them was conscious of my gratitude, and noted it down on +the bark of her tree? It was late before I finished my excursion, and +soon after I had walked as usual upon the ramparts the opera began. + + + + +LETTER XVII. + + + FLORENCE, _October_ 5_th_. + +It was not without regret that I forced myself from Lucca. We had all +the same road to go over again, that brought us to this important +republic, but we broke down by way of variety. The wind was chill, the +atmosphere damp and clogged with unwholesome vapours, through which we +were forced to walk for a league, whilst our chaise lagged after us. + +Taking shelter in a miserable cottage, we remained shivering and shaking +till the carriage was in some sort of order, and then proceeded so slowly +that we did not arrive at Florence till late in the evening. We found an +apartment over the Arno prepared for our reception. The river, swollen +with rains, roared like a mountain torrent. Throwing open my windows, I +viewed its agitated course by the light of the moon, half concealed in +stormy clouds, which hung above the fortress of the Belvedere, and cast a +lowering gleam over the hills, which rise above the town, and wave with +cypress. I sat contemplating the effect of the shadows on the bridge, on +the heights of Boboli, and the mountain covered with pale olive groves, +amongst which a convent is situated, till the moon sunk into the darkest +quarter of the sky, and a bell began to toll. Its sullen sound filled me +with sadness. I closed the casements, called for lights, ran to a +harpsichord Vannini had prepared for me, and played somewhat in the +strain of Jomelli’s _Miserere_. + +_October_ 6_th_.—Every cloud was dispersed when I arose; the sunbeams +glittered on the stream, and the purity and transparency of the tether +added new charms to the woody eminences around. Such was the clearness +of the air that even objects on the distant mountains were +distinguishable. I felt quite revived by the exhilarating prospect, and +walked in the splendour of sunshine to the porticos beneath the famous +gallery; then to an ancient castle, raised in the days of the republic, +which fronts the grand piazza: colossal statues and venerable terms are +placed before it. On one side a fountain clung round with antique +figures of bronze, by John of Bologna, so admirably wrought as to hold me +several minutes in astonishment; on the other, three lofty Gothic arches, +and under one of them the Perseus of Benvenuto Cellini, raised on a +pedestal, incomparably designed and executed; which I could not behold +uninterested, since its author has ever occupied a distinguished place in +my kalendar of genius. Having examined some groups of sculptures, by +Baccio Bandinelli and other mighty artists, I entered the court of the +castle, dark and deep, as if hewn out of a rock; surrounded by a vaulted +arcade, covered with arabesque ornaments, and supported by pillars as +uncouthly carved as those of Persepolis. In the midst appears a marble +fount with an image of bronze, that looks quite strange and cabalistic. +I leaned against it, to look up to the summits of the walls, which rise +to a vast height, from whence springs a slender tower. Above, in the +apartments of the castle, were preserved numbers of curious cabinets, +tables of inlaid gems, and a thousand rarities, collected by the house of +Medici, but exposed by the present sovereign of Tuscany to public sale. + +It was not without indignation that I learnt this new mark of contempt +which the Austrians bestow on the memory of those illustrious patrons of +the Arts; whom, being unwilling to imitate, they affect to despise as a +race of merchants, whose example it would be abasing their dignity to +follow. + +I could have stayed much longer to enjoy the novelty and strangeness of +the place; but it was right to pay some compliments of form. That duty +over, I dined in peace and solitude, read over your letters, and +repaired, as evening drew on, to the thickets of Boboli. + +What a serene sky! what mellowness in the tints of the mountains! A +purple haze concealed the bases, whilst their summits were invested with +saffron light, discovering every white cot and every copse that clothed +their declivities. The prospect widened as I ascended the terraces of +the garden. + +After traversing many long alleys, brown with impending foliage, I +emerged into a green opening on the brow of the hill, and seated myself +under the statue of Ceres. From this high point I surveyed the mosaic +cupola of the Duomo, its quaint turret, and one still more grotesque in +its neighbourhood, built not improbably in the style of ancient Etruria. +Beyond this singular group of buildings a plain stretches itself far and +wide, most richly scattered over with villas, gardens, and groves of pine +and olive, quite to the feet of the mountains. + +After I had marked the sun’s going down, I went through a plat of vines +hanging on the steeps, to a little eminence, round which the wood grows +wilder and more luxuriant, and the cypresses shoot up to a surprising +elevation. The pruners have spared this sylvan corner, and suffered the +bays to put forth their branches, and the ilex to dangle over the walks, +many of whose entrances are nearly overgrown. I enjoyed the gloom of +these shady arbours, in the midst of which rises a lofty pavilion with +galleries running round it, not unlike the idea one forms of Turkish +chiosks. Beneath lies a garden of vines and rose-trees, which I visited, +and found a spring under a rustic arch of grotto-work, fringed round with +ivy. Millions of fish inhabit here, of that beautiful glittering species +which comes from China. This golden nation were leaping after insects, +as I stood gazing upon the deep, clear water, and listening to the drops +that trickle from the cove. Opposite to which, at the end of an alley of +vines, you discover an oval bason, and in the midst of it a statue of +Ganymede, sitting reclined upon the eagle, full of that graceful languor +so peculiarly Grecian. Whilst I was musing on the margin of the spring +(for I returned to it after casting a look upon the sculpture), the moon +rose above the tufted foliage of the terraces. Her silver brightness was +strongly contrasted by the deep green of the holm-oak and bay, amongst +which I descended by several flights of stairs, with neat marble +balustrades crowned by vases of aloes. + +It was about seven o’clock, and everybody was jumbling to my Lord T—’s, +who lives in a fine house all over blue and silver, with stuffed birds, +alabaster cupids, and a thousand prettinesses more; but, after all, +neither he nor his abode are worth mentioning. I found a deal of +slopping and sipping of tea going forwards, and many dawdlers assembled. + +As I can say little good of the party, I had better shut the door, and +conduct you to the opera, which is really a striking spectacle. However, +it being addressed to the sight alone, I was soon tired, and gave myself +up to conversation. Bedini, first soprano, put my patience to severe +proof, during the few minutes I attended. You never beheld such a +porpoise. If these animals were to sing, I should conjecture it would be +in his style. You may suppose how often I invoked Pacchierotti, and +regretted the lofty melody of _Quinto Fabio_. Everybody seemed as well +contented as if there were no such thing as good music in the world, +except a Neapolitan duchess, who delighted me by her vivacity. We took +our fill of maledictions, and went home equally pleased with each other +for having mutually execrated both singers and audience. + + + + +LETTER XVIII. + + +_October_ 22_nd_.—They say the air is worse this year at Rome than ever, +and that it would be madness to go thither during its malign influence. +This was very bad news indeed to one heartily tired of Florence, at least +of its society. Merciful powers! what a set harbour within its walls! * +* * * * You may imagine I do not take vast or vehement delight in this +company, though very ingenious, praiseworthy, etc. The woods of the +Cascini shelter me every morning; and there grows an old crooked ilex at +their entrance, twisting round a pine, upon whose branches I sit for +hours,—hear, without feeling, the showers trickling above my head, and +see the cattle browsing peacefully in their pastures, which hazel copses, +Italian pines, and groves of cypress enclose. + +In the afternoon I never fail hiding myself in the thickets of Boboli, +and marking the golden glimmer of sunset between their leaves. The other +evening I varied my walks, and ascended one of those pleasant hills {214} +which rise in the vicinity of the city, and command a variegated scene of +spires, towns, villas, cots, and gardens. On the right, as you stand +upon the brow, appears Fesule with its turrets and white houses, covering +a rocky mount; to the left, the vast Val d’Arno lost in immensity. A +Franciscan convent stands on the summit of the eminence, wrapped up in +ancient cypresses, which hinder its holy inhabitants from seeing too much +of so gay a view. The paved ascent leading up to their abode receives +also a shade from the cypresses which border it. Beneath which venerable +avenue, crosses with inscriptions are placed at stated distances, to mark +the various moments of Christ’s passion; as when fainting under His +burden He halted to repose Himself, or when He met His afflicted mother +(“Giesu incontra la fua afflitta madre”). + +Above, at the end of the perspective, rises a chapel designed with +infinite taste and simple elegance by M. A. Buonarotti. Further on, an +ancient church, in the corrupt Greek style of the primitive Christians, +incrusted with white marble, porphyry, and verd antique. The interior +presents a crowded assemblage of ornaments, elaborate mosaic pavements, +and inlaid work without end. The high altar, placed in a semicircular +recess, which reminded me of the church at Torcello, glitters with +barbaric paintings on a gold ground, and receives the strongest glow of +light imaginable from five windows, filled up with transparent marble +clouded like tortoiseshell. A smooth polished staircase leads to this +sacred place: another brought me to a subterraneous chapel, supported by +confused groups of variegated pillars, just visible by the glimmer of +lamps. I thought of the Zancaroon at Cordova, and began reciting the +first verses of the Koran. + + [Picture: Florence] + +Passing on not unawed, I followed some flights of steps, which terminate +in the neat cloisters of the convent, in perfect preservation, but +totally deserted. Ranges of citron and aloes fill up the quadrangle, +whose walls are hung with superstitious pictures most singularly fancied. +The Jesuits were the last tenants of this retirement, and seem to have +had great reason for their choice. Its peace and stillness delighted me. + +Next day a very opposite scene engaged me, though much against my will. +Her R. H. the G. Duchess having produced a princess in the night, +everybody put on grand gala in the morning, and I was carried, along with +the glittering tide of courtiers, ministers, and ladies, to see the +christening. After hearing the Grand Duke talk politics for some time, +the doors of a temporary chapel were thrown open. Trumpets flourished, +processions marched, and the archbishop began his business at an altar of +massive gold, placed under a yellow silk pavilion, with pyramids of +lights before it. Wax tapers, though it was noon-day, shone in every +corner of the apartments. Two rows of pages, gorgeously accoutred, and +holding enormous torches, stood on each side his Royal Highness, and made +him the prettiest courtesies imaginable, to the sound of an execrable +band of music, though led by Nardini. The poor old archbishop, who +looked very piteous and saint-like, struck up the Te Deum with a +quavering voice, and the rest followed him full gallop. + +That ceremony being despatched (for his R. H. was in a mighty fidget to +shrink back into his beloved obscurity), the crowd dispersed, and I went, +with a few others, to dine at my Lord Tilney’s. + +Evening drawing on, I ran to throw myself into the woods of Boboli, and +remained till it was night in their profound recesses. Really this +garden is enough to bewilder an enthusiastic spirit; there is something +so solemn in its shades, its avenues, and spires of cypresses. When I +had mused for many a melancholy hour amongst them, I emerged into the +orangery before the palace, which overlooks the largest district of the +town, and beheld, as I slowly descended the road which leads up to it, +certain bright lights glancing across the cupola of the Duomo and the +points of the highest towers. At first I thought them meteors, or those +illusive fires which often dance before the eye of my imagination; but +soon I was convinced of their reality: for in a few minutes the +battlements of the old castle, which I remember mentioning in a former +letter, shone with lamps; the lantern of the cathedral was lighted up on +a sudden; whilst a stream of torches ran along its fantastic turrets. + +I enjoyed this prospect at a distance: when near, its pleasure was +greatly diminished, for half the fish in the town were frying to rejoice +the hearts of H. R. Highness’s loyal subjects, and bonfires blazing in +every street and alley. Hubbubs and stinks of every denomination drove +me quickly to the theatre; but that was all glitter and glare. No taste, +no arrangement, paltry looking-glasses, and rat’s-tail candles. I had +half a mind to return to Boboli. + + + + +LETTER XIX. + + +_October_ 23_rd_.—Do you recollect our evening rambles last year upon the +hill of pines? and the dark valley where we used to muse in the twilight? +I remember we often fancied the scene like Valombrosa; and vowed, if ever +an occasion offered, to visit that deep retirement. I had put off the +execution of this pilgrimage from day to day till the warm weather was +gone; and the Florentines declared I should be frozen if I attempted it. +Everybody stared last night at the opera when I told them I was going to +bury myself in fallen leaves, and hear no music but their rustlings. + +Mr. — was just as eager as myself to escape the chit-chat and nothingness +of Florence; so we finally determined upon our expedition, and mounting +our horses, set out this morning, happily without any company but the +spirit which led us along. We had need of inspiration, since nothing +else, I think, would have tempted us over such dreary, uninteresting +hillocks as rise from the banks of the Arno. The hoary olive is their +principal vegetation; so that Nature, in this part of the country, seems +in a withering decrepit state, and may not unaptly be compared to “an old +woman clothed in grey.” However, we did not suffer the prospect to damp +our enthusiasm, which was the better preserved for Valombrosa. + +About half way, our palfreys thought proper to look out for some oats, +and I to creep into a sort of granary in the midst of a barren waste, +scattered over with white rocks, that reflected more heat than I cared +for, although I had been told snow and ice were to be my portion. +Seating myself on the floor between heaps of corn, I reached down a few +purple clusters of Muscadine grapes, which hung to dry in the ceiling, +and amused myself very pleasantly with them till the horses had finished +their meal and it was lawful to set forwards. We met with nothing but +rocky steeps shattered into fragments, and such roads as half inclined us +to repent our undertaking; but cold was not yet amongst the number of our +evils. + +At last, after ascending a tedious while, we began to feel the wind blow +sharp from the peaks of the mountains, and to hear the murmur of the +forests of pine which shade their acclivities. A paved path leads across +them, quite darkened by boughs, which, meeting over our heads, cast a +gloom and a chill below, that would have stopped the proceedings of +reasonable mortals, and sent them to bask in the plain; but, being not so +easily discomfited, we threw ourselves boldly into the forest. It +presented one of those confusions of tall straight stems I am so fond of, +and exhaled a fresh aromatic odour that revived my spirits. + +The cold to be sure was piercing; but setting that at defiance, we +galloped on, and issued shortly into a vast amphitheatre of lawns and +meadows, surrounded by thick woods beautifully green. Flocks of sheep +were dispersed on the slopes, whose smoothness and verdure equal our +English pastures. Steep cliffs and mountains, clothed with beech to +their very summits, guard this retired valley. The herbage, moistened by +streams which fall from the eminences, has never been known to fade; and, +whilst the chief part of Tuscany is parched by the heats of summer, these +upland meadows retain the freshness of spring. I regretted not having +visited them sooner, as autumn had already made great havoc amongst the +foliage. Showers of leaves blew full in our faces as we rode towards the +convent, placed at an extremity of the vale, and sheltered by remote firs +and chestnuts towering one above another. + +Alighting before the entrance, two fathers came out and received us into +the peace of their retirement. We found a blazing fire, and tables +spread very comfortably before it, round which five or six overgrown +friars were lounging, who seemed, by the sleekness and rosy hue of their +countenances, not totally to have despised this mortal existence. + +My letters of recommendation soon brought the heads of the order about +me, fair round figures, such as a Chinese would have placed in his +pagoda. I could willingly have dispensed with their attention; yet to +avoid this was scarcely within the circle of possibility. All dinner we +endured the silliest questions imaginable; but that despatched, away flew +your humble servant to the fields and forests. The fathers made a shift +to waddle after, as fast and as complaisantly as they were able, but were +soon distanced. + +Now, I found myself at liberty, and ran up a narrow path overhung by +rock, with bushy chestnuts starting from the crevices. This led me into +wild glens of beech trees, mostly decayed and covered with moss: several +were fallen. It was amongst these the holy hermit Gualbertus had his +cell. I rested a moment upon one of their huge branches, listening to +the roar of a waterfall which the wood concealed; then springing up, I +clambered over crags and fragments, guided by the sound, and presently +discovered a full stream, precipitating itself down a cliff of pine, +amongst which I remained several minutes, watching the fallen floods; +till, tired with their endless succession, I plunged into the thickest of +the grove. A beech received me, like a second Gualbertus, in its hollow +trunk. The dry leaves chased each other down the steeps on the edge of +the torrents with hollow rustlings, whilst the solemn wave of the forests +above exactly answered the idea I had formed of Valombrosa, + + “ . . . where th’ Etrurian shades + High overarch’t imbowr.” + +The scene was beginning to take effect, and the genius of Milton to move +across his favourite valley, when the fathers arrived puffing and +blowing, by an easier ascent than I knew of. Pardon me, if I cursed +their intrusion, and wished them as still as Gualbertus. + +“You have missed the way,” cried the youngest; “the hermitage, with the +fine picture by Andrea del Sarto, which all the English admire, is on the +opposite side of the wood: there don’t you see it on the point of the +cliff?” + +“Yes, yes,” said I a little peevishly; “I wonder the devil has not pushed +it down long ago; it seems to invite his kick.” + +“Satan,” answered the old Pagod very dryly, “is full of malice; but +whoever drinks of a spring which the Lord causeth to flow near the +hermitage is freed from his illusions.” + +“Are they so?” replied I with a sanctified accent; “then prithee conduct +me thither, for I have great need of such salutary waters, being troubled +with strange fancies and imaginations, such as the evil one himself ought +to be ashamed of inspiring.” + +The youngest father shook his head, as much as to say, “This is nothing +more than a heretic’s whim.” + +The senior—muddled, I conjecture—set forwards with greater piety, and +began some legendary tales of the kind which my soul loveth: rare stories +of caves and dens of the earth, inhabited by ancient men familiar with +spirits, and not the least discomposed by a party of angels coming to +dinner, or playing a game at miracles to pass away the evening. He +pointed to a chasm in the cliff, round which we were winding by a spiral +path, where Gualbertus used to sleep, and, turning himself towards the +west, see a long succession of saints and martyrs sweeping athwart the +sky, and gilding the clouds with far brighter splendours than the setting +sun. Here he rested till his last hour, when the bells of the convent +beneath (which till that moment would have made dogs howl, had there been +any within its precincts) struck out such harmonious jingling that all +the country around was ravished, and began lifting up their eyes with +singular devotion, when, behold! cherubim appeared, light dawned, and +birds chirped, although it was midnight. Alas! alas! what would I not +give to witness such a spectacle, and read my prayer-book by the +effulgence of opening heaven! + +However, willing to see something at least, I crept into the consecrated +cleft, and extended myself on its rugged surface. A very penitential +couch! but commanding glorious prospects of the world below, which lay +this evening in deep blue shade; the sun looking red and angry through +misty vapours, which prevented our discovering the Tuscan sea. + +Finding the rock as damp as might be expected, I soon shifted my +quarters, and followed the youngest father up to the Romitorio, a snug +little hermitage, with a neat chapel, and altar-piece by Andrea del +Sarto, which I should have more minutely examined in any other place, but +where the wild scenery of hanging woods and meadows, steep hills and +nodding precipices, possessed my whole attention. I just stayed to taste +the holy fountain; and then, escaping from my conductors, ran eagerly +down the path, leaping over the springs that crossed it, and entered a +lawn of the smoothest turf, grazed by sheep, and swelling into gentle +acclivities, skirted by groves of fir, whose solemn verdure formed a +contrast with its tender green. Beyond this pleasant opening rises a +second, hemmed in with copses; and still higher, a third, whence a forest +of young pines spires up into a lofty theatre terminated by peaks, +universally concealed under a thick mantle of beech, tinged with ruddy +brown. Pausing in the midst of the lawns, and looking upward to the +sweeps of wood which surrounded me, I addressed my orisons to the genius +of the place, and prayed that I might once more return into its bosom, +and be permitted to bring you along with me, for surely such meads, such +groves, were formed for our enjoyment! + +This little rite performed, I walked on quite to the extremity of the +pastures, traversed a thicket, and found myself on the edge of +precipices, beneath whose base the whole Val d’Arno lies expanded. I +listened to distant murmurings in the plain, saw smoke rise from the +cottages, and viewed a vast tract of barren country, which evening +rendered still more desolate, bounded by the high mountain of Radicofani. +Then, turning round, I beheld the whole extent of rock and forest, the +groves of beech, and wilds above the convent, glowing with fiery red, for +the sun, making a last effort to pierce the vapours, produced this +effect; which was the more striking, as the sky was dark, and the rest of +the prospect of a melancholy blue. + +Returning slowly homeward, I marked the warm glow deserting the +eminences, and heard the bell toll sullenly to vespers. The young boys +of the seminary were moving in a body to their dark inclosure, all +dressed in black. Many of them looked pale and wan. I wished to ask +them whether the solitude of Valombrosa suited their age and vivacity; +but a tall spectre of a priest drove them along like a herd, and +presently, the gates opening, I saw them no more. A sadness I could +scarcely account for came over me. I shivered at the bare idea of being +cooped up in such a place, and seeing no other living objects than +scarecrow priests and friars; to hear every day the same dull service and +droning organ; view the same cloisters; be led the same walks; watched, +cribbed, confined, and filled with superstitious fears. + +The night was growing chill, the winds boisterous, and in the intervals +of the gusts I had the addition of a lamentable screech-owl to raise my +spirits. Upon the whole, I was not at all concerned to meet the fathers, +who came out to show me to my room, and entertain me with various +gossipings, both sacred and profane, till supper appeared. + +Next morning, the Padre Decano gave us chocolate in his apartment; and +afterwards led us round the convent, insisting most unmercifully upon our +viewing every cell and every dormitory. However, I was determined to +make a full stop at the organ, which is perhaps the most harmonious I +ever played upon; but placed in a dark, dingy recess, feebly lighted by +lamps, not calculated to inspire triumphant voluntaries. The monks, who +had all crowded around me when I first began, in expectation of brisk +jigs and lively overtures, soon took themselves away upon hearing a +strain ten times more sorrowful than that to which they were accustomed. +I did not lament their departure, but played dismally on till our horses +came round to the gate. We mounted, spurred back through the grove of +pines which protect Valombrosa from intrusion, descended the steeps, and, +gaining the plains, galloped in three hours to Florence. + + + + +LETTER XX. + + + SIENNA, _October_ 26_th_. + +At last fears were overcome, the epidemical fever at Rome allowed to be +no longer dangerous, and myself permitted to quit Florence. The weather +was neither gay nor dismal; the country neither fine nor ugly; and your +friend full as indifferent as the scenes he looked at. Towards +afternoon, a thunderstorm gave character to the landscape, and we entered +a narrow vale enclosed by rocks, with streams running at their base. +Poplars with faded yellow leaves sprung from the margins of the rivulets, +which seemed to lose themselves in the ruins of a castle, built in the +Gothic times. Our road led through its court and passed the ancient +keep, still darkened by its turrets; a few mud cottages are scattered +about the opening where formerly the chieftain exercised his vassals, and +trained them to war. The dungeon, once filled with miserable victims, +serves only at present to confine a few goats, which were milking before +its entrance. As we were driven along under a tottering gateway, and +then through a plain and up a hill, the breeze whispering amongst the +fern which covers it, I felt the sober autumnal cast of the evening bring +back the happy hours I passed last year at this very time, calm and +sequestered. Full of these recollections, my eyes closed of their own +accord, and were not opened for many hours; in short, till we entered +Sienna. + +_October_ 27_th_.—Here my duty of course was to see the cathedral, and I +got up much earlier than I wished, in order to perform it. I wonder our +holy ancestors did not choose a mountain at once, scrape it into shrines, +and chisel it into scripture stories. It would have cost them almost as +little trouble as the building in question, which may certainly be +esteemed a masterpiece of ridiculous taste and elaborate absurdity. The +front, incrusted with alabaster, is worked into a million of fretted +arches and puzzling ornaments. There are statues without number and +relievos without end. + +The church within is all of black and white marble alternately; the roof +blue and gold, with a profusion of silken banners hanging from it; and a +cornice running above the principal arcade, composed entirely of bustos +representing the whole series of sovereign pontiffs, from the first +Bishop of Rome to Adrian the Fourth. Pope Joan figured amongst them, +between Leo the Fourth and Benedict the Third, till the year 1600, when +she was turned out, at the instance of Clement the Eighth, to make room +for Zacharias the First. + +I hardly knew which was the nave, or which the cross aisle, of this +singular edifice, so perfect is the confusion of its parts. The pavement +demands attention, being inlaid so curiously as to represent variety of +histories taken from Holy Writ, and designed in the true style of that +hobgoblin tapestry which used to bestare the halls of our ancestors. +Near the high altar stands the strangest of pulpits, supported by +polished pillars of granite, rising from lions’ backs, which serve as +pedestals. In every corner of the place some chapel or other offends or +astonishes you. That, however, of the Chigi family, it must be allowed, +has infinite merit with respect to design and execution; but it is so +lost in general disorder as to want the best part of its effect. + +From the church one enters a vaulted chamber, erected by the Picolominis, +filled with valuable missals most exquisitely illuminated. The paintings +in fresco on the walls are rather barbarous, though executed after the +designs of the mighty Raffaelle; but then, we must remember, he had but +just escaped from Pietro Perugino. + +Not staying long in the Duomo, we left Sienna in good time; and, after +being shaken and tumbled in the worst roads that were ever pretended to +be made use of, found ourselves beneath the rough mountains round +Radicofani, about seven o’clock on a cold and dismal evening. Up we +toiled a steep craggy ascent, and reached at length the inn upon its +summit. My heart sunk when I entered a vast range of apartments, with +high black rafted roofs, once intended for a hunting palace of the Grand +Dukes, but now desolate and forlorn. The wind having risen, every door +began to shake, and every board substituted for a window to clatter, as +if the severe power who dwells on the topmost peak of Radicofani, +according to its village mythologists, was about to visit his abode. My +only spell to keep him at a distance was kindling an enormous fire, whose +charitable gleams cheered my spirits, and gave them a quicker flow. Yet, +for some minutes, I never ceased looking, now to the right, now to the +left, up at the dark beams, and down the long passages, where the +pavement, broken up in several places, and earth newly strewn about, +seemed to indicate that something horrid was concealed below. + +A grim fraternity of cats kept whisking backwards and forwards in these +dreary avenues, which I am apt to imagine is the very identical scene of +a sabbath of witches at certain periods. Not venturing to explore them, +I fastened my door, pitched my bed opposite the hearth, which glowed with +embers, and crept under the coverlids, hardly venturing to go to sleep, +lest I should be suddenly roused from it by the sudden glare of torches, +and be more initiated than I wished into the mysteries of the place. + +Scarce was I settled, before two or three of the brotherhood just +mentioned stalked in at a little opening under the door. I insisted upon +their moving off faster than they had entered, suspecting that they would +soon turn wizards, and was surprised, when midnight came, to hear nothing +more than their mewings, doleful enough, and echoed by the hollow walls +and arches. + + + + +LETTER XXI. + + + RADICOFANI, _October_ 28_th_. + +I begin to despair of magical adventures, since none happened at +Radicofani, which Nature seems wholly to have abandoned. Not a tree, not +an acre of soil, has she bestowed upon its inhabitants, who would have +more excuse for practising the gloomy art than the rest of mankind. I +was very glad to leave their black hills and stony wilderness behind, +and, entering the Papal territory, to see some shrubs and corn-fields at +a distance, near Aquapadente, which is situated on a ledge of cliffs, +mantled with chestnut copses and tufted ilex. The country grew varied +and picturesque. St. Lorenzo, the next post, built upon a hill, +overlooks the lake of Bolsena, whose woody shores conceal many ruined +buildings. We passed some of them in a retired vale, with arches from +rock to rock, and grottos beneath half lost in thickets, from which rise +craggy pinnacles crowned by mouldering towers; just such scenery as +Polemburg and Peter de Laer introduce in their paintings. + +Beyond these truly Italian prospects, which a mellow evening tint +rendered still more interesting, a forest of oaks presents itself upon +the brows of hills, which extends almost the whole way to Monte Fiascone. +It was late before we ascended it. The whole country seems full of +inhabited caverns, that began as night drew on to shine with fires. We +saw many dark shapes glancing before them, and perhaps a subterraneous +people like the Cimmerians lurk in their recesses. As we drew near +Viterbo, the lights in the fields grew less and less frequent; and when +we entered the town, all was total darkness. + +To-morrow I hope to pay my vows before the high altar of St. Peter, and +tread the Vatican. Why are you not here to usher me into the imperial +city: to watch my first glance of the Coliseo: and lead me up the stairs +of the Capitol? I shall rise before the sun, that I may see him set from +Monte Cavallo. + + + + +LETTER XXII. + + + ROME, _October_ 29_th_. + +We set out in the dark. Morning dawned over the Lago di Vico; its waters +of a deep ultramarine blue, and its surrounding forests catching the rays +of the rising sun. It was in vain I looked for the cupola of St. Peter’s +upon descending the mountains beyond Viterbo. Nothing but a sea of +vapours was visible. + +At length they rolled away, and the spacious plains began to show +themselves, in which the most warlike of nations reared their seat of +empire. On the left, afar off, rises the rugged chain of Apennines, and +on the other side, a shining expanse of ocean terminates the view. It +was upon this vast surface so many illustrious actions were performed, +and I know not where a mighty people could have chosen a grander theatre. +Here was space for the march of armies, and verge enough for encampments. +Levels for martial games, and room for that variety of roads and +causeways that led from the capital to Ostia. How many triumphant +legions have trodden these pavements! how many captive kings! What +throngs of cars and chariots once glittered on their surface! savage +animals dragged from the interior of Africa; and the ambassadors of +Indian princes, followed by their exotic train, hastening to implore the +favour of the senate! + +During many ages, this eminence commanded almost every day such +illustrious scenes; but all are vanished: the splendid tumult is passed +away; silence and desolation remain. Dreary flats thinly scattered over +with ilex, and barren hillocks crowned by solitary towers, were the only +objects we perceived for several miles. Now and then we passed a few +black ill-favoured sheep feeding by the way-side, near a ruined +sepulchre, just such animals as an ancient would have sacrificed to the +Manes. Sometimes we crossed a brook, whose ripplings were the only +sounds which broke the general stillness, and observed the shepherds’ +huts on its banks, propped up with broken pedestals and marble friezes. +I entered one of them, whose owner was abroad tending his herds, and +began writing upon the sand, and murmuring a melancholy song. Perhaps +the dead listened to me from their narrow cells. The living I can answer +for: they were far enough removed. + +You will not be surprised at the dark tone of my musings in so sad a +scene, especially as the weather lowered; and you are well acquainted how +greatly I depend upon skies and sunshine. To-day I had no blue firmament +to revive my spirits; no genial gales, no aromatic plants to irritate my +nerves and give me at least a momentary animation. Heath and furze were +the sole vegetation which covers this endless wilderness. Every slope is +strewed with the relics of a happier period; trunks of trees, shattered +columns, cedar beams, helmets of bronze, skulls and coins, are frequently +dug up together. + +I cannot boast of having made any discoveries, nor of sending you any +novel intelligence. You knew before how perfectly the environs of Rome +were desolate, and how completely the Papal government contrives to make +its subjects miserable. But who knows that they were not just as +wretched in those boasted times we are so fond of celebrating? All is +doubt and conjecture in this frail existence; and I might as well attempt +proving to whom belonged the mouldering bones which lay dispersed around +me, as venture to affirm that one age is more fortunate than another. +Very likely the poor cottager, under whose roof I reposed, is happier +than the luxurious Roman upon the remains of whose palace, perhaps, his +shed is raised: and yet that Roman flourished in the purple days of the +empire, when all was wealth and splendour, triumph and exultation. + +I could have spent the whole day by the rivulet, lost in dreams and +meditations; but recollecting my vow, I ran back to the carriage and +drove on. The road not having been mended, I believe, since the days of +the Cæsars, would not allow our motions to be very precipitate. “When +you gain the summit of yonder hill, you will discover Rome,” said one of +the postillions: up we dragged; no city appeared. “From the next,” cried +out a second; and so on from height to height did they amuse my +expectations. I thought Rome fled before us, such was my impatience, +till at last we perceived a cluster of hills with green pastures on their +summits, inclosed by thickets and shaded by flourishing ilex. Here and +there a white house, built in the antique style, with open porticos, that +received a faint gleam of the evening sun, just emerged from the clouds +and tinting the meads below. Now domes and towers began to discover +themselves in the valley, and St. Peter’s to rise above the magnificent +roofs of the Vatican. Every step we advanced the scene extended, till, +winding suddenly round the hill, all Rome opened to our view. + +A spring flowed opportunely into a marble cistern close by the way; two +cypresses and a pine waved over it. I leaped up, poured water upon my +hands, and then, lifting them up to the sylvan Genii of the place, +implored their protection. I wished to have run wild in the fresh fields +and copses above the Vatican, there to have remained till fauns might +creep out of their concealment, and satyrs begin to touch their flutes in +the twilight, for the place looks still so wondrous classical, that I can +never persuade myself either Constantine Attila or the Popes themselves +have chased them all away. I think I should have found some out, who +would have fed me with milk and chestnuts, have sung me a Latian ditty, +and mourned the woeful changes which have taken place, since their sacred +groves were felled, and Faunus ceased to be oracular. Who can tell but +they would have given me some mystic skin to sleep on, that I might have +looked into futurity? + +Shall I ever forget the sensations I experienced upon slowly descending +the hills, and crossing the bridge over the Tiber; when I entered an +avenue between terraces and ornamented gates of villas, which leads to +the Porto del Popolo, and beheld the square, the domes, the obelisk, the +long perspective of streets and palaces opening beyond, all glowing with +the vivid red of sunset? You can imagine how I enjoyed my beloved tint, +my favourite hour, surrounded by such objects. You can fancy me +ascending Monte Cavallo, leaning against the pedestal which supports +Bucephalus; then, spite of time and distance, hurrying to St. Peter’s in +performance of my vow. + +I met the Holy Father in all his pomp returning from vespers: trumpets +flourishing, and a legion of guards drawn out upon Ponte St. Angelo. +Casting a respectful glance upon the Moles Adriani, I moved on till the +full sweep of St. Peter’s colonnade opened upon me, and fixed me, as if +spell-bound, under the obelisk, lost in wonder. The edifice appears to +have been raised within the year, such is its freshness and preservation. +I could hardly take my eyes from off the beautiful symmetry of its front, +contrasted with the magnificent though irregular courts of the Vatican +towering over the colonnade, till, the sun sinking behind the dome, I ran +up the steps and entered the grand portal, which was on the very point of +being closed. + +I knew not where I was, or to what scene transported. A sacred twilight +concealing the extremities of the structure, I could not distinguish any +particular ornament, but enjoyed the effect of the whole. No damp air or +fetid exhalation offended me. The perfume of incense was not yet +entirely dissipated. No human being stirred. I heard a door close with +the sound of thunder, and thought I distinguished some faint whisperings, +but am ignorant whence they came. Several hundred lamps twinkled round +the high altar, quite lost in the immensity of the pile. No other light +disturbed my reveries but the dying glow still visible through the +western windows. Imagine how I felt upon finding myself alone in this +vast temple at so late an hour, and think whether I had not revelations. + +It was almost eight o’clock before I issued forth, and, pausing a few +minutes under the porticos, listened to the rush of the fountains: then +traversing half the town, I believe, in my way to the Villa Medici, under +which I am lodged, fell into a profound repose, which my zeal and +exercise may be allowed, I think, to have merited. + +_October_ 30_th_.—It was a clear morning; I mounted up to the roof of the +house, and sat under a set of open pavilions, surveying the vast group of +stately buildings below; then repaired immediately after breakfast to St. +Peter’s, which even exceeded the height of my expectations. I could +hardly quit it. I wish his Holiness would allow me to erect a little +tabernacle under the dome. I should desire no other prospect during the +winter; no other sky than the vast arches glowing with golden ornaments, +so lofty as to lose all glitter or gaudiness. But I cannot say I should +be perfectly contented, unless I could obtain another pavilion for you. +Thus established, we would take our evening walks on the field of marble; +for is not the pavement vast enough to excuse the extravagance of the +appellation? Sometimes, instead of climbing a mountain, we should ascend +the cupola, and look down on our little encampment below. At night I +should wish for a constellation of lamps dispersed about in clusters, and +so contrived as to diffuse a mild and equal light for us to read or draw +by. Music should not be wanting: one day to breathe in the subterraneous +chapels, another to mount high into the dome. + +The doors should be closed, and not a mortal admitted. No priests, no +cardinals: God forbid! We should have all the space to ourselves, and to +such creatures, too, as resemble us. + +The windows I should shade with transparent curtains of yellow silk, to +admit the glow of perpetual summer. Lanterns, as many as you please, of +all forms and sizes; they would remind us of China, and, depending from +the roof of the palace, bring before us that of the Emperor Ki, which was +twice as large as St. Peter’s (if we may credit the grand annals), and +lighted alone by tapers, for his Imperial Majesty, being tired of the +sun, would absolutely have a new firmament of his own creation, and an +artificial day. Was it not a rare fantastic idea? For my part, I should +like of all things to immure myself after his example, with those I love; +forget the divisions of time, have a moon at command, and a theatrical +sun to rise and set at pleasure. + +I was so absorbed in my imaginary palace, and exhausted with contriving +plans for its embellishment, as to have no spirits left for the Pantheon, +which I visited late in the evening, and entered with a reverence +approaching to superstition. The whiteness of the dome offending me, I +slunk into one of the recesses, closed my eyes, transported myself into +antiquity; then opened them again, tried to persuade myself the pagan +gods were in their niches, and the saints out of the question; was vexed +at coming to my senses, and finding them all there, St. Andrew with his +cross, and St. Agnes with her lamb, etc., etc. Then I paced +disconsolately into the portico, which shows the name of Agrippa on its +pediment. I leaned a minute against a Corinthian column; I lamented that +no pontiff arrived with victims and aruspices, of whom I might inquire, +what, in the name of birds and garbage, put me so terribly out of humour! +for you must know I was very near being disappointed, and began to think +Piranesi and Paolo Panini had been a great deal too colossal in their +view of this venerable structure. I left the column, walked to the +centre of the temple, and, folding my arms, stood as fixed as a statue. +Some architects have celebrated the effect of light from the opening +above, and pretended it to be distributed around so as to give those who +walk beneath the appearance of mystic substances beaming with radiance. +Mighty fine, if that were the case! I appeared, to be sure, a luminous +figure, and never stood I more in need of something to distinguish me, +being forlorn and dismal in the supreme degree. + +But though it is not so immense as I had expected, yet a certain +venerable air, an awful gloom, breathed inspiration, though of the +sorrowful kind. + +I had expected a heap of Venetian letters, but could not discover one. I +had received no intelligence from England this many a tedious day; and +for aught I can tell to the contrary, you may have been dead these three +weeks. I think I shall wander soon in the Catacombs, which I am half +inclined to imagine communicate with the lower world; and perhaps I may +find some letter there from you, lying upon a broken sarcophagus, dated +from the realms of Night, and giving an account of your descent into her +bosom. Yet, I pray continually, notwithstanding my curiosity to learn +what passes in the dark regions beyond the tomb, that you will condescend +to remain a few years longer on our planet; for what would become of me, +should I lose sight of you for ever? Stay, therefore, as long as you +can, and let us have the delight of dozing a little more of this poor +existence away together, and steeping ourselves in pleasant dreams. + + [Picture: Modern Rome] + +_October_ 31_st_.—I absolutely will have no antiquary to go prating from +fragment to fragment, and tell me, that were I to stay five years at +Rome, I should not see half it contained. The thought alone, of so much +to look at, is quite distracting, and makes me resolve to view nothing at +all in a scientific way; but straggle and wander about, just as the +spirit chooses. This evening, it led me to the Coliseo, and excited a +vehement desire in me to break down and pulverize the whole circle of +saints’ nests and chapels, which disgrace the arena. You recollect, I +dare say, the vile effect of this holy trumpery, and would join with all +your heart in kicking it into the Tiber. A few lazy abbots were at their +devotions before them; such as would have made a lion’s mouth water; +fatter, I dare say, than any saint in the whole martyrology, and ten +times more tantalizing. I looked first, at the dens where wild beasts +used to be kept, to divert the magnanimous people of Rome with +devastation and murder; then, at the tame cattle before the altars. +Heavens! thought I to myself, how times are changed! Could ever +Vespasian have imagined his amphitheatre would have been thus inhabited? +I passed on, making these reflections, to a dark arcade, overgrown with +ilex. In the openings which time and violence have made, a distant grove +of cypresses discover themselves; springing from heaps of mouldering +ruins, relieved by a clear transparent sky, strewed with a few red +clouds. This was the sort of prospect I desired, and I sat down on a +shattered frieze to enjoy it. Many stories of ancient Rome thronged into +my mind as I mused; triumphal scenes, but tempered by sadness, and the +awful thoughts of their being all passed away. It would be in vain to +recapitulate the ideas which chased one another along. Think where I +sat, and you may easily conjecture the series. When the procession was +fleeted by (for I not only thought, but seemed to see warriors moving +amongst the cypresses, and consuls returning from Parthian expeditions, +loaded with strange spoils, and received with the acclamations of +millions upon entering the theatre), I arose, crossed the arena, paced +several times round and round, looked up to arcade rising above arcade, +and admiring the stately height and masses of the structure, considered +it in various points of view, and felt, as if I never should be satisfied +with gazing, hour after hour, and day after day. Next, directing my +steps to the arch of Constantine, I surveyed the groups of ruins which +surrounded me. The cool breeze of the evening played in the beds of +canes and osiers which flourished under the walls of the Coliseo: a cloud +of birds were upon the wing to regain their haunts in its crevices; and, +except the sound of their flight, all was silent; for happily no +carriages were rattling along. I observed the palace and obelisk of St. +John of Lateran, at a distance; but it was too late to take a nearer +survey; so, returning leisurely home, I traversed the Campo Vaccino, and +leaned a moment against one of the columns which supported the temple of +Jupiter Stator. Some women were fetching water from the fountain hard +by, whilst another group had kindled a fire under the shrubs and twisted +fig-trees, which cover the Palatine Hill. Innumerable vaults and arches +peep out of the vegetation. It was upon these, in all probability, the +splendid palace of the Cæsars was raised. Confused fragments of marble, +and walls of lofty terraces, are the sole traces of its ancient +magnificence. A wretched rabble were roasting their chestnuts, on the +very spot, perhaps, where Domitian convened a senate, to harangue upon +the delicacies of his entertainment. The light of the flame cast upon +the figures around it, and the mixture of tottering wall with foliage +impending above their heads, formed a striking picture, which I stayed +contemplating from my pillar, till the fire went out, the assembly +dispersed, and none remained but a withered hag, raking the embers, and +muttering to herself. I thought also it was high time to retire, lest +the unwholesome mists, which were streaming from the opening before the +Coliseo, might make me repent my stay. Whether they had already taken +effect, or no, I will not absolutely determine; but something or other +had grievously disordered me. A few centuries ago I should have taxed +the old hag with my headache, and have attributed the uncommon oppression +I experienced to her baleful power. Hastening to my hotel, I mounted +into the open portico upon its summit, nearly upon a level with the Villa +Medici, and sat, several hours, with my arms folded in one another, +listening to the distant rumours of the town. It had been a fine moment +to have bestrode one of the winds which piped around me, offering, no +doubt, some compact from Lucifer. + +_November_ 1_st_.—Though you find I am not yet snatched away from the +earth, according to my last night’s bodings, I was far too restless and +dispirited to deliver my recommendatory letters. St. Carlos, a mighty +day of gala at Naples, was an excellent excuse for leaving Rome, and +indulging my roving disposition. After spending my morning at St. +Peter’s, we set off about four o’clock, and drove by the Coliseo and a +Capuchin convent, whose monks were all busied in preparing the skeletons +of their order, to figure by torchlight in the evening. St. John’s of +Lateran astonished me. I could not help walking several times round the +obelisk, and admiring the noble open space in which the palace is +erected, and the extensive scene of towers and aqueducts discovered from +the platform in front. + +We went out at the Porta Appia, and began to perceive the plains which +surround the city opening on every side. Long reaches of walls and +arches, but seldom interrupted, stretch across them. Sometimes, indeed, +a withered pine, lifting itself up to the mercy of every blast that +sweeps the champagne, breaks their uniformity. Between the aqueducts to +the left, nothing but wastes of fern, or tracts of ploughed lands, dark +and desolate, are visible, the corn not being yet sprung up. On the +right, several groups of ruined fanes and sepulchres diversify the +levels, with here and there a garden or woody inclosure. Such objects +are scattered over the landscape, that towards the horizon bulges into +gentle ascents, and, rising by degrees, swells at length into a chain of +mountains, which received the pale gleams of the sun, setting in watery +clouds. + +By this uncertain light we discovered the white buildings of Albano, +sprinkled about the steeps. We had not many moments to contemplate them, +for it was night when we passed the Torre di mezza via, and began +breathing a close pestilential vapour. Half suffocated, and recollecting +a variety of terrifying tales about the malaria, we advanced, not without +fear, to Veletri, and hardly ventured to fall asleep when arrived there. + +_November_ 2_nd_.—I arose at daybreak, and forgetting fevers and +mortalities, ran into a level meadow without the town, whilst the horses +were putting to the carriage. Why should I calumniate the air? it seemed +purer and more transparent than any I had before inhaled. The mountains +were covered with thin mists, and the morning star sparkled above their +summits. Birds were twittering amongst some sheds and bushes, which +border the sides of the road. A chestnut hung over it, against which I +leaned till the chaise came up. Being perfectly alone, and not +discovering any trace of the neighbouring city, I fancied myself existing +in the ancient days of Hesperia, and hoped to meet Picus in his woods +before the evening. But, instead of those shrill clamours which used to +echo through the thickets when Pan joined with mortals in the chase, I +heard the rumbling of our carriage, and the curses of its postillions. +Mounting a horse, I flew before them, and seemed to catch inspiration +from the breezes. Now I turned my eyes to the ridge of precipices, in +whose grots and caverns Saturn and his people passed their life; then to +the distant ocean. Afar off rose the cliffs, so famous for Circe’s +incantations, and the whole line of coast, which was once covered with +her forests. + +Whilst I was advancing with full speed, the sunbeams began to shoot +athwart the mountains, the plains to light up by degrees, and their +shrubberies of myrtle to glisten with dewdrops. The sea brightened, and +the Circean rock soon glowed with purple. I never felt my spirits so +exhilarated, and they could not have flowed with more vivacity, even had +I tasted the cup which Helen gave Telemachus. You will think me gone +wild when I tell you I was, in a manner, drunk with the dews of the +morning, and so enraptured with the prospects which lay before me as to +address them in verse, and compose charms to dispel the enchantments of +Circe. All day were we approaching her rock; towards evening Terracina +appeared before us, in a bold romantic site; house above house, and +turret looking over turret, on the steeps of a mountain, inclosed with +mouldering walls, and crowned by the ruined terraces of a delightful +palace: one of those, perhaps, which the luxurious Romans inhabited +during the summer, when so free and lofty an exposition (the sea below, +with its gales and murmurs) must have been exquisitely agreeable. Groves +of orange and citron hang on the declivity, rough with the Indian fig, +whose bright red flowers, illuminated by the sun, had a magic splendour. +A palm-tree, growing on the highest crag, adds not a little to its +singular appearance. Being the largest I had ever seen, and clustered +with fruit, I climbed up the rocks to take a close survey of it, and +found a spring trickling near its fount, bordered by fresh herbage. On +this I stretched myself on the very edge of the precipice, and looking +down upon the beach, and glassy plains of ocean, exclaimed with Martial: + + “O nemua! O fentes! solidumque madentis arenæ + Littus, et æquoreis splendidus Anxur aquis!” + +Glancing my eyes athwart the sea, I fixed them on the Circean promontory, +which lies right opposite to Terracina, joined to the continent by a very +narrow strip of land, and appearing like an island. The roar of the +waves lashing the base of the precipices, might still be thought the howl +of savage monsters; but where are those woods which shaded the dome of +the goddess? Scarce a tree appears. A few thickets, and but a few, are +the sole remains of this once impenetrable vegetation; yet even these I +longed to visit, such was my predilection for the spot. + +Who knows but Circe might have led me to some other palace, in a more +secret and retired vale, where she dwells remote from modern mariners, +and the present inhabitants of her environs; universally changed to swine +for these many ages? Their metamorphoses being so thoroughly established +as to leave no further pretence for her operations, I can imagine her +given up to solitude, and the consciousness of her potent influence. +Notwithstanding the risks of the adventure, I wished to have attempted +it, and seen whether she would have allowed me, as night came on, to warm +myself by her cedar fire, and hear her captivating song. Perhaps, had +the goddess been propitious, I might have culled some herbs of wondrous +efficacy. You recollect, I dare say, how renowned the cliff was for +them, and remember that Circe’s attendants, deeply skilled, like their +mistress, in pharmacy, were continually gathering plants in the woods and +wilds which enriched her abode. It was thus the companions of Ulysses +found them employed, when, entering her palace, they unwarily drank the +beverage she offered. Ovid has told this story in a masterly manner, and +formed a lively picture of the magic dome, with the occupations of its +inhabitants. We see them judiciously arranging their plants, whilst +Circe directs and points out, with the nicest discernment, the simple and +compound virtues of every flower. + +Descending the cliff, and pursuing our route to Mola along the shore, by +a grand road formed on the ruins of the Appian, we drove under an +enormous perpendicular rock, standing detached, like a watch-tower, and +cut into arsenals and magazines. Day closed just as we got beyond it, +and a new moon gleamed faintly on the waters. We saw fires afar off in +the bay, some twinkling on the coast, others upon the waves, and heard +the murmur of voices; for the night was still and solemn, like that of +Cajetas’s funeral. I looked anxiously on a sea, where the heroes of the +Odyssey and Æneid had sailed in search of fate and empire, then closed my +eyes, and dreamed of those illustrious wanderers. + +Nine struck when we arrived at Mola di Cajeta. The boats were just +coming in (whose lights we had seen out upon the main), and brought such +fish as Neptune, I dare say, would have grudged Æneas and Ulysses. + +_November_ 3_rd_.—The morning was soft, but hazy. I walked in a grove of +oranges, white with blossoms, and at the same time glowing with fruit, +some of which I obtained leave to gather. The spot sloped pleasantly +towards the sea, and here I amused myself with my agreeable occupation +till the horses were ready, then set off on the Appian, between hedges of +myrtle and aloes, catching fresh gales from the sea as I flew along, and +breathing the perfume of an aromatic vegetation, which covers the fields +on the shore. We observed variety of towns, with battlemented walls and +ancient turrets, crowning the pinnacles of rocky steeps, surrounded by +wilds, and rude uncultivated mountains. The Liris, now Garigliano, winds +its peaceful course through wide extensive meadows, scattered over with +the remains of aqueducts, and waters the base of the rocks I have just +mentioned. Such a prospect could not fail of bringing Virgil’s panegyric +of Italy full in my mind: + + “Tot congesta manu præruptis oppida saxis + Fluminaque antiquos suhterlabentia muros.” + +As soon as we arrived in sight of Capua, the sky darkened, clouds covered +the horizon, and presently poured down such deluges of rain as floated +the whole country. The gloom was general; Vesuvius disappeared just +after we had the pleasure of discovering it; lightning began to flash +with dreadful rapidity, and people to run frightened to their houses. At +four o’clock darkness universally prevailed, except when a livid glare of +lightning presented momentary glimpses of the bay and mountains. We +lighted torches, and forded several torrents almost at the hazard of our +lives. The fields round Naples were filled with herds, lowing most +piteously, and yet not half so much scared as their masters, who ran +about cursing and swearing like Indians during the eclipse of the moon. +I knew Vesuvius had often put their courage to proof, but little thought +of an inundation occasioning such commotions. + +For three hours the storm increased in violence, and instead of entering +Naples on a calm evening, and viewing its delightful shores by +moonlight—instead of finding the squares and terraces thronged with +people and animated by music, we advanced with fear and terror through +dark streets totally deserted, every creature being shut up in their +houses, and we heard nothing but driving rain, rushing torrents, and the +fall of fragments beaten down by their violence. Our inn, like every +other habitation, was in great disorder, and we waited a long while +before we could settle in our apartments with any comfort. All night the +waves roared round the rocky foundations of a fortress beneath my +windows, and the lightning played clear in my eyes. I could not sleep, +and was full as disturbed as the elements. + +_November_ 4_th_.—Peace was restored to nature in the morning, but every +mouth was full of the dreadful accidents which had happened in the night. +The sky was cloudless when I awoke, and such was the transparence of the +atmosphere that I could clearly discern the rocks, and even some white +buildings on the island of Caprea, though at the distance of several +miles. A large window fronts my bed, and its casements being thrown +open, gives me a vast prospect of ocean, uninterrupted except by the +peaks of Caprea and the Cape of Sorento. I lay half an hour gazing on +the smooth level waters, and listening to the confused voices of the +fishermen, passing and repassing in light skiffs, which came and +disappeared in an instant. + +Running to the balcony the moment my eyes were fairly open (for till then +I saw objects, I know not how, as one does in dreams), I leaned over its +rails, and viewed Vesuvius rising distinct into the blue ether, with all +that world of gardens and casinos which are scattered about its base; +then looked down into the street, deep below, thronged with people in +holiday garments, and carriages, and soldiers in full parade. The woody, +variegated shore of Posilipo next drew my attention. It was on those +very rocks, under those tall pines, Sannazaro was wont to sit by +moonlight, or at peep of dawn, holding converse with the Nereids. ’Tis +there he still sleeps; and I wished to have gone immediately and strewed +coral over his tomb, but I was obliged to check my impatience, and hurry +to the palace in form and gala. + +A courtly mob had got thither upon the same errand, daubed over with lace +and most notably be-periwigged. Nothing but—bows and salutations were +going forward on the staircase, one of the largest I ever beheld, and +which a multitude of prelates and friars were ascending in all the pomp +of awkwardness. I jostled along to the presence chamber, where his +Majesty was dining alone in a circular inclosure of fine clothes and +smirking faces. The moment he had finished, twenty long necks were poked +forth, and it was a glorious struggle amongst some of the most decorated +who first should kiss his hand. Doing so was the great business of the +day, and everybody pressed forward to the best of their abilities. His +Majesty seemed to eye nothing but the end of his nose, which is doubtless +a capital object. + +Though people have imagined him a weak monarch, I beg leave to differ in +opinion, since he has the boldness to prolong his childhood and be happy, +in spite of years and conviction. Give him a boar to stab, and a pigeon +to shoot at, a battledore or an angling rod, and he is better contented +than Solomon in all his glory, and will never discover, like that sapient +sovereign, that all is vanity and vexation of spirit. + +His courtiers in general have rather a barbaric appearance, and differ +little in the character of their physiognomies from the most savage +nations. I should have taken them for Calmucks or Samoieds, had it not +been for their dresses and European finery. + +You may suppose I was not sorry, after my presentation was over, to +return to Sir W.’s and hear Lady H. play, whose music breathes the most +pastoral Sicilian ideas, and transports me to green meads on the +sea-coast, where I wander with Theocritus. + +The evening was passing swiftly away in this delightful excursion of +fancy, and I had almost forgotten there was a grand illumination at the +theatre of St. Carlo. After traversing a number of dark streets, we +suddenly entered this enormous edifice, whose six rows of boxes blazed +with tapers. I never beheld such lofty walls of light, nor so pompous a +decoration as covered the stage. Marchesi was singing in the midst of +all these splendours some of the poorest music imaginable, with the +clearest and most triumphant voice, perhaps, in the universe. + +It was some time before I could look to any purpose around me, or +discover what animals inhabited this glittering world: such was its size +and glare. At last I perceived vast numbers of ugly beings, in gold and +silver raiment, peeping out of their boxes. The court being present, a +tolerable silence was maintained, but the moment his Majesty withdrew +(which great event took place at the beginning of the second act) every +tongue broke loose, and nothing but buzz and hubbub filled up the rest of +the entertainment. + +The last ballet, formed upon the old story of “Le Festin de Pierre,” had +wonderful effect, and terminated in the most striking perspective of the +infernal region. Picq danced incomparably, and Signora Rossi led the +Fandango, with a grace and activity that pleased me beyond idea. Music +was never more rapturous than that which accompanies this dance. It +quite enchanted me, and I longed to have sprung upon the stage. The +cadence is so strongly marked by the castanets, that it is almost +impossible to be out of time; and the rapidity of steps and varied +movements scarcely allows a moment to think of being tired. I should +imagine the eternal dance, with which certain tribes of American savages +think they are to be rewarded in a future existence, might be formed +somewhat on this model. Indeed the Fandango arrived in Spain with the +conquerors of the other hemisphere, and is far too lively and extatic to +be of European original. + +_November_ 6_th_.—Till to-day we have had nothing but rains; the sea +covered with mists, and Caprea invisible. Would you believe it? I have +not yet been able to mount to St. Elmo and the Capo di Monte, in order to +take a general view of the town. + +At length a bright gleam of sunshine roused me from my slumbers, and +summoned me to the broad terrace of Chiaja, directly above the waters and +commanding the whole coast of Posilipo. Insensibly I drew towards it, +and (you know the pace I run when out upon discoveries) soon reached the +entrance of the grotto, which lay in dark shades, whilst the crags that +lower over it were brightly illumined. Shrubs and vines grow luxuriantly +in the crevices of the rock; and their fresh yellow colours, variegated +with ivy, have a beautiful effect. To the right a grove of pines sprung +from the highest pinnacles: on the left, bay and chestnut conceal the +tomb of Virgil, placed on the summit of a cliff which impends over the +opening of the grotto, and is fringed with a florid vegetation. Beneath +are several wide apertures hollowed in the solid stone, which lead to +caverns sixty or seventy feet in depth, where a number of peasants, who +were employed in quarrying, made such a noise with their tools and their +voices as almost inclined me to wish the Cimmerians would start from +their subterraneous habitations, and sacrifice these profane to the +Manes. + +Walking out of the sunshine, I seated myself on a loose stone immediately +beneath the first gloomy arch of the grotto, and looking down the vast +and solemn perspective, terminated by a speck of grey uncertain light, +venerated a work which some old chroniclers have imagined as ancient as +the Trojan war. ’Twas here the mysterious race I have just mentioned +performed their infernal rites, and it was this excavation perhaps which +led to their abode. + +The Neapolitans attribute a more modern, though full as problematical an +origin to their famous cavern, and most piously believe it to have been +formed by the enchantments of Virgil, who, as Mr. Addison very justly +observes, is better known at Naples in his magical character, than as the +author of the Æneid. This strange infatuation most probably arose from +the vicinity of the tomb, in which his ashes are supposed to have been +deposited; and which, according to popular tradition, was guarded by +those very spirits who assisted in constructing the cave. But whatever +may have given rise to these ideas, certain it is they were not confined +to the lower ranks alone. King Robert, {240} a wise though far from +poetical monarch, conducted his friend Petrarch with great solemnity to +the spot; and, pointing to the entrance of the grotto, very gravely asked +him, whether he did not adopt the general belief, and conclude this +stupendous passage derived its origin from Virgil’s powerful +incantations? The answer, I think, may easily be conjectured. + +When I had sat for some time, contemplating this dusky avenue, and trying +to persuade myself that it was hewn by the Cimmerians, I retreated +without proceeding any farther, and followed a narrow path which led me, +after some windings and turnings, along the brink of the precipice, +across a vineyard, to that retired nook of the rocks which shelters +Virgil’s tomb, most venerably mossed over, and more than half concealed +by bushes and vegetation. Drops of dew were distilling from the niches +of the little chamber, which once contained his urn, and heaps of +withered leaves had gathered on the pavement. Amongst these I crept to +eat some grapes and biscuits, having duly scattered a few crumbs as a +sort of offering to the invisible guardians of the place. I believe they +were sensible of my piety, and, as a reward, kept vagabonds and clowns +away. + +The one who conducted me remained aloof at awful distance, whilst I sat +commercing with the manes of my beloved poet, or straggling about the +shrubbery which hangs directly above the mouth of the grot. I wonder I +did not visit the eternal shades sooner that I expected, for no squirrel +ever skipped from bough to bough more venturously. One instant I climbed +up the branches of a chestnut, and sat almost on its extremity, my feet +impending over the chasm below; another I boldly advanced to the edge of +the rock, and saw crowds of people and carriages, diminished by distance, +issuing from the bosom of the mountain, and disappearing almost as soon +as discovered in the windings of its road. Having clambered high above +the cavern, I hazarded my neck on the top of one of the pines, and looked +contemptuously down on the race of pigmies that were so busily moving to +and fro. The sun was fiercer than I could have wished, but the +sea-breezes fanned me in my aërial situation, which commanded the grand +sweep of the bay, varied by convents, palaces, and gardens, mixed with +huge masses of rock and crowned by the stately buildings of the +Carthusians and fortress of St. Elmo. Add a glittering blue sea to this +perspective, with Caprea rising from its bosom, and Vesuvius breathing +forth a white column of smoke into the ether, and you will then have a +scene upon which I gazed with delight, for more than an hour, almost +forgetting that I was perched upon the head of a pine, with nothing but a +frail branch to uphold me. However, I descended alive, as Virgil’s +genii, I am resolved to believe, were my protectors. + + + + +LETTER XXIII. + + +_November_ 8_th_.—This morning I awoke in the glow of sunshine; the air +blew fresh and fragrant; never did I feel more elastic and enlivened. A +brisker flow of spirits than I had for many a day experienced, animated +me with a desire of rambling about the shore of Baii, and creeping into +caverns and subterraneous chambers. Off I set along Chiaja, and up +strange paths which impend over the grotto of Posilipo, amongst the +thickets mentioned a letter or two ago; for in my present lively humour, +I disdained ordinary roads, and would take paths and ways of my own. A +society of kids did not understand what I meant by intruding upon their +precipices; and scrambling away, scattered sand and fragments upon the +good people that were trudging along the pavement below. + +I went on from pine to pine, and thicket to thicket, upon the brink of +rapid declivities. My conductor, a shrewd savage, whom Sir William had +recommended to me, cheered our route with stories that had passed in the +neighbourhood, and traditions about the grot over which we were +travelling. I wish you had been of the party, and sat down by us on +little smooth spots of sward, where I reclined, scarcely knowing which +way caprice was leading me. My mind was full of the tales of the place, +and glowed with a vehement desire of exploring the world beyond the grot. +I longed to ascend the promontory of Misenus, and follow the same dusky +route down which the Sibyl conducted Æneas. + +With these dispositions I proceeded; and soon the cliffs and copses +opened to views of the Baian bay, with the little isles of Niscita and +Lazaretto lifting themselves out of the waters. Procita and Ischia +appeared at a distance, invested with that purple bloom so inexpressibly +beautiful, and peculiar to this fortunate climate. I hailed the prospect +and blessed the transparent air that gave me life and vigour to run down +the rocks, and hie as fast as my savage across the plain to Puzzoli. +There we took bark and rowed out into the blue ocean, by the remains of a +sturdy mole: many such, I imagine, adorned the bay in Roman ages crowned +by vast lengths of slender pillars; pavilions at their extremities, and +taper cypresses spiring above their balustrades: this character of villa +occurs very frequently in the paintings of Herculaneum. + +We had soon crossed the bay, and landing on a bushy coast, near some +fragments of a temple which they say was raised to Hercules, advanced +into the country by narrow tracks covered with moss and strewed with +shining pebbles; to the right and left, broad masses of luxuriant +foliage, chestnut, bay, and ilex, that shelter the ruins of columbariums +and sepulchral chambers, where the dead sleep snug amongst rampant +herbage. The region was still, save when a cock crew from the hamlets, +which, as well as the tombs, are almost concealed by thickets. No +parties of smart Englishmen and connoisseurs were about. I had all the +land to myself, and mounted its steeps and penetrated into its recesses, +with the importance of a discoverer. What a variety of narrow paths, +between banks and shades, did I wildly follow! my savage laughing loud at +my odd gestures and useless activity. He wondered I did not scrape the +ground for medals, and pocket little bits of plaster, like other +plausible young travellers that had gone before me. + +After ascending some time, I followed him into the Piscina Mirabilis, the +wondrous reservoir which Nero constructed to supply his fleet, when +anchored in the neighbouring bay. ’Tis a grand labyrinth of solid vaults +and pillars, as you well know, but you cannot conceive the partial gleams +of sunshine which played on the arches, nor the variety of roots and +ivies trailing from the cove. A noise of trickling waters prevailed, +that had almost lulled me to sleep as I rested myself on the celandine +which carpets the floor; but curiosity urging me forward, I gained the +upper air; walked amongst woods a few minutes, and then into grots and +dismal excavations (prisons they call them), which began to weary me. + +After having gone up and down in this manner for some time, we at last +reached an eminence that looked over the Mare Morto, and Elysian fields +trembling with poplars. The Dead Lake, a faithful emblem of eternal +tranquillity, looked deep and solemn. A few peasants were passing along +its margin, their shadows reflected on the water: all was serene and +peaceful. Turning from the lake I espied a rock at about a league +distant, whose summit was clad with verdure, and finding this to be the +promontory of Misenus, I immediately set my face to that quarter. + +We passed several dirty villages, inhabited by an ill-favoured +generation, infamous for depredations and murders. Their gardens, +however, discover some marks of industry; the fields are separated by +neat hedges of cane, and corn seemed to flourish in the inclosures. + +I walked on with slowness and deliberation, musing at every step, and +stopping ever and anon to rest myself by springs and tufted bay-trees; +when insensibly we began to leave the cultivated lands behind us, and to +lose ourselves in shady wilds, which, to all appearance, no mortal had +ever trodden. Here were no paths, no enclosures; a primeval rudeness +characterized the whole scene,— + + “Juvat arva videre, + Non rastris, hominum non ulli obnoxia curæ.” + +The idea of going almost out of the world, soothed the tone of mind into +which a variety of affecting recollections had thrown me. I formed +conjectures about the promontory to which we were tending; and when I +cast my eyes around the savage landscape, transported myself four +thousand years into antiquity, and half persuaded myself I was one of +Æneas’s companions. After forcing our way about a mile through glades of +shrubs and briars, we entered a verdant opening at the base of the cliff +which takes its name from Misenus. The poets of the Augustan age would +have celebrated such a meadow with the warmest raptures; they would have +discovered a nymph in every flower, and detected a dryad under every +tree. Doubtless imagination never formed a lovelier prospect. Here were +clear streams and grassy hillocks, leafy shrubs and cypresses spiring out +of their bosom,— + + “Et circum irriguo surgebant lilia prato + Candida purpureis mista papaveribus.” + +But as it is not the lot of human animals to be contented, instead of +reposing in the vale, I scaled the rock, and was three parts dissolved in +attaining its summit,—a flat spot covered with herbage, where I lay +contemplating the ocean, and fanned by its breezes. The sun darted upon +my head; I wished to avoid its immediate influence: no tree was near. +Deep below lay the pleasant valley: ’twas a long way to descend. Looking +round and round, I spied something like a hut, under a crag on the edge +of a dark fissure. Might I avail myself of its covert? My conductor +answered in the affirmative, and added that it was inhabited by a good +old woman, who never refused a cup of milk, or slice of bread, to refresh +a weary traveller. + +Thirst and fatigue urged me speedily down an intervening slope of stunted +myrtle. Though oppressed with heat, I could not help deviating a few +steps from the direct path to notice the uncouth rocks which rose +frowning on every quarter. Above the hut, their appearance was truly +formidable; dark ivy crept among the crevices, and dwarf aloes with sharp +spines, such as Lucifer himself might be supposed to have sown. Indeed, +I knew not whether I was not approaching some gate that leads to his +abode, as I drew near a gulph (the fissure lately mentioned) and heard +the hollow gusts which were imprisoned below. The savage, my guide, +shuddered as he passed by to apprise the old woman of my coming. I felt +strangely, and stared around me, and but half liked my situation. To say +truth, I wished myself away, and heartily regretted the green vale. + +In the midst of my doubts, forth tottered the old woman. “You are +welcome,” said she, in a feeble voice, but a better dialect than I had +heard in the neighbourhood. Her look was more humane, and she seemed of +a superior race to the inhabitants of the surrounding valleys. My savage +treated her with peculiar deference. She had just given him some bread, +with which he retired to a respectful distance, bowing to the earth. I +caught the mode, and was very obsequious, thinking myself on the point of +experiencing a witch’s influence, and gaining, perhaps, some insight into +the volume of futurity. She smiled at my agitation, and kept beckoning +me into the cottage. + +“Now,” thought I to myself, “I am upon the verge of an adventure. O +Quixote! O Sylvio di Rosalva! how would ye have strutted in such a +situation! What fair Infantas would ye not have expected to behold, +condemned to spinning wheels, and solitude?” I, alas! saw nothing but +clay walls, a straw bed, some glazed earthen bowls, and a wooden +crucifix. My shoes were loaded with sand: this my hostess perceived, and +immediately kindling a fire in an inner part of the hovel, brought out +some warm water to refresh my feet, and set some milk and chestnuts +before me. This patriarchal politeness was by no means indifferent after +my tiresome ramble. I sat down opposite to the door which fronted the +unfathomable gulph; beyond appeared the sea, of a deep cerulean, foaming +with waves. The sky also was darkening apace with storms. Sadness came +over me like a cloud, and I looked up to the old woman for consolation. + +“And you too are sorrowful, young stranger,” said she, “that come from +the gay world! How must I feel, who pass year after year in these lonely +mountains?” I answered that the weather affected me, and my spirits were +exhausted by the walk. + +All the while I spoke she looked at me with such a melancholy earnestness +that I asked the cause, and began again to imagine myself in some fatal +habitation, + + “Where more is meant than meets the ear.” + +Said she, “Your features are wonderfully like those of an unfortunate +young person, who, in this retirement . . . ” The tears began to fall as +she pronounced these words; she seemed older than before, and bent to the +ground with sorrow. My curiosity was fired. “Tell me,” continued I, +“what you mean? who was this youth for whom you are so interested? and +why did he seclude himself in this wild region? Your kindness might no +doubt alleviate, in some measure, the horrors of the place; but may God +defend me from passing the night near such a gulph! I would not trust +myself in a despairing moment.” + +“It is,” said she, “a place of horrors. I tremble to relate what has +happened on this very spot; but your manner interests me, and though I am +little given to narrations, for once I will unlock my lips concerning the +secrets of yonder fatal chasm. + +“I was born in a distant part of Italy, and have known better days. In +my youth fortune smiled upon my family, but in a few years they withered +away; no matter by what accident. I am not going, however, to talk of +myself. Have patience a few moments! A series of unfortunate events +reduced me to indigence, and drove me to this desert, where, from rearing +goats and making their milk into cheese, by a different method than is +common in the Neapolitan State, I have, for about thirty years, prolonged +a sorrowful existence. My silent grief and constant retirement had made +me appear to some a saint, and to others a sorceress. The slight +knowledge I have of plants has been exaggerated, and, some years back, +the hours I gave up to prayer, and the recollection of former friends, +lost to me for ever! were cruelly intruded upon by the idle and the +ignorant. But soon I sank into obscurity; my little recipes were +disregarded, and you are the first stranger who, for these twelve months +past, has visited my abode. Ah, would to God its solitude had ever +remained inviolate! + +“It is now three-and-twenty years,” and she looked upon some characters +cut on the planks of the cottage, “since I was sitting by moonlight, +under that cliff you view to the right, my eyes fixed on the ocean, my +mind lost in the memory of my misfortunes, when I heard a step, and +starting up, a figure stood before me. It was a young man, in a rich +habit, with streaming hair, and looks that bespoke the utmost terror. I +knew not what to think of this sudden apparition. ‘Mother,’ said he with +faltering accents, ‘let me rest under your roof; and deliver me not up to +those who thirst after my blood. Take this gold; take all, all!’ + +“Surprise held me speechless; the purse fell to the ground; the youth +stared wildly on every side: I heard many voices beyond the rocks; the +wind bore them distinctly, but presently they died away. I took courage, +and assured the youth my cot should shelter him. ‘Oh! thank you, thank +you!’ answered he, and pressed my hand. He shared my scanty provision. + +“Overcome with toil (for I had worked hard in the day), sleep closed my +eyes for a short interval. When I awoke the moon was set, but I heard my +unhappy guest sobbing in darkness. I disturbed him not. Morning dawned, +and he was fallen into a slumber. The tears bubbled out of his closed +eyelids, and coursed one another down his wan cheeks. I had been too +wretched myself not to respect the sorrows of another: neglecting +therefore my accustomed occupations, I drove away the flies that buzzed +around his temples. His breast heaved high with sighs, and he cried +loudly in his sleep for mercy. + +“The beams of the sun dispelling his dream, he started up like one that +had heard the voice of an avenging angel, and hid his face with his +hands. I poured some milk down his parched throat. ‘Oh, mother!’ he +exclaimed, ‘I am a wretch unworthy of compassion; the cause of +innumerable sufferings; a murderer! a parricide!’ My blood curdled to +hear a stripling utter such dreadful words, and behold such agonising +sighs swell in so young a bosom; for I marked the sting of conscience +urging him to disclose what I am going to relate. + +“It seems he was of high extraction, nursed in the pomps and luxuries of +Naples, the pride and darling of his parents, adorned with a thousand +lively talents, which the keenest sensibility conspired to improve. +Unable to fix any bounds to whatever became the object of his desires, he +passed his first years in roving from one extravagance to another, but as +yet there was no crime in his caprices. + +“At length it pleased Heaven to visit his family, and make their idol the +slave of an unworthy passion. He had a friend, who from his birth had +been devoted to his interest, and placed all his confidence in him. This +friend loved to distraction a young creature, the most graceful of her +sex (as I can witness), and she returned his affection. In the +exultation of his heart, he showed her to the wretch whose tale I am +about to tell. He sickened at her sight. She too caught fire at his +glances. They languished—they consumed away—they conversed, and his +persuasive language finished what his guilty glances had begun. + +“Their flame was soon discovered, for he disdained to conceal a thought, +however dishonourable. The parents warned the youth in the tenderest +manner; but advice and prudent counsels were to him so loathsome, that +unable to contain his rage, and infatuated with love, he menaced the life +of his friend as the obstacle of his enjoyment. Coolness and moderation +were opposed to violence and frenzy, and he found himself treated with a +contemptuous gentleness. Stricken to the heart, he wandered about for +some time like one entranced. Meanwhile the nuptials were preparing; and +the lovely girl he had perverted found ways to let him know she was about +to be torn from his embraces. + +“He raved, and rousing his dire spirit, applied to a malignant dæmon who +sold the most inveterate poisons. These he presented, like a cup of pure +iced water, to his friend, and to his own affectionate father. They +drank the draught, and soon began to pine. He marked the progress of +their dissolution with a horrid firmness. He let the moment pass beyond +which all antidotes were vain. His friend expired; and the young +criminal, though he beheld the dews of death hang on his parent’s +forehead, yet stretched not forth his hand. In a short space the +miserable father breathed his last, whilst his son was sitting aloof in +the same chamber. + +“The sight overcame him. He felt, for the first time, the pangs of +remorse. His agitation passed not unnoticed. He was watched: suspicions +beginning to unfold, he took alarm, and one evening escaped; but not +without previously informing the partner of his crimes which way he +intended to flee. Several pursued; but the inscrutable will of +Providence blinded their search, and I was doomed to behold the effects +of celestial vengeance. + +“Such are the chief circumstances of the tale I gathered from the youth. +I swooned whilst he related it, and could take no sustenance. One whole +day afterwards did I pray the Lord, that I might die rather than be near +an incarnate demon. With what indignation did I now survey that slender +form and those flowing tresses, which had interested me before so much in +his behalf! + +“No sooner did he perceive the change in my countenance, than sullenly +retiring to yonder rock, he sat careless of the sun and scorching winds; +for it was now the summer solstice. Equally was he heedless of the +unwholesome dews. When midnight came my horrors were augmented; and I +meditated several times to abandon my hovel, and fly to the next village; +but a power more than human chained me to the spot and fortified my mind. + +“I slept, and it was late next morning when some one called at the wicket +of the little fold, where my goats are penned. I arose, and saw a +peasant of my acquaintance leading a female strangely muffled up, and +casting her eyes on the ground. My heart misgave me. I thought this was +the very maid who had been the cause of such unheard-of wickedness. Nor +were my conjectures ill-founded. Regardless of the clown who stood by in +stupid astonishment, she fell to the earth and bathed my hand with tears. +Her trembling lips with difficulty inquired after the youth; and, as she +spoke, a glow of conscious guilt lightened up her pale countenance. + +“The full recollection of her lover’s crimes shot through my memory. I +was incensed, and would have spurned her away; but she clung to my +garments and seemed to implore my pity with a look so full of misery, +that, relenting, I led her in silence to the extremity of the cliff where +the youth was seated, his feet dangling above the sea. His eye was +rolling wildly around, but it soon fixed upon the object for whose sake +he had doomed himself to perdition. + +“I am not inclined to describe their ecstasies, or the eagerness with +which they sought each other’s embraces. I turned indignantly my head; +and, driving my goats to a recess amongst the rocks, sat revolving in my +mind these strange events. I neglected procuring any provision for my +unwelcome guests; and about midnight returned homewards by the light of +the moon, which shone serenely in the heavens. Almost the first object +her beams discovered was the guilty maid sustaining the head of her +lover, who had fainted through weakness and want of nourishment. I +fetched some dry bread, and, dipping it in milk, laid it before them. +Having performed this duty I set open the door of my hut, and retiring to +a neighbouring cavity, there stretched myself on a heap of leaves, and +offered my prayers to Heaven. + +“A thousand fears, till this moment unknown, thronged into my fancy. I +mistook the shadow of leaves, that chequered the entrance to the grot, +for ugly reptiles, and repeatedly shook my garments. The flow of the +distant surges was deepened by my apprehensions into distant groans: in a +word, I could not rest; but issuing from the cavern as hastily as my +trembling knees would allow, paced along the edge of the precipice. An +unaccountable impulse hurried my steps. Dark clouds were driving across +the sky, and the setting moon was flushed with the deepest crimson. A +wan gleam coloured the sea. Such was my terror and shivering, that, +unable to advance to my hut or retreat to the cavern, I was about to +shield myself from the night in a sandy crevice, when a loud shriek +pierced my ear. My fears had confused me; I was in fact hard by my +hovel, and scarcely three paces from the brink of the cavern: it was from +thence the cries proceeded. + +“Advancing in a cold shudder to its edge, part of which was newly +crumbled in, I discovered the form of the young man suspended by one foot +to a branch of juniper that grew ten feet down: thus dreadfully did he +hang over the gulph from the branch bent with his weight. His features +were distorted, his eye-balls glared with agony, and his screams became +so shrill and terrible, that I lost all power of assistance. Fixed, I +stood with my eyes riveted upon the criminal, who incessantly cried out, +‘O God! O Father! save me, if there be yet mercy! save me, or I sink +into the abyss!’ + +“I am convinced he saw me not; for not once did he implore my help. My +heart was dead within me. I called out upon the Lord. His voice grew +faint, and as I gazed intent upon him, he fell into utter darkness. I +sank to the earth in a trance, during which a sound like the rush of +pennons assaulted my ear: methought the evil spirit was bearing off his +soul; I lifted up my eyes, but nothing stirred; the stillness that +prevailed was awful. + +“The moon looked stained with streaks of blood; her orb hanging low over +the waves afforded a sickly light, by which I perceived some one coming +down that white cliff you see before you; and soon I heard the voice of +the young woman calling aloud on her guilty lover. She stopped. She +repeated again and again her exclamation; but there was no reply. +Alarmed and frantic she hurried along the path, and now I saw her on the +promontory, and now by yonder pine, devouring with her glances every +crevice in the rock. At length perceiving me, she flew to where I stood, +by the fatal precipice, and having noticed the fragments fresh crumbled +in, pored importunately on my countenance. I continued pointing to the +chasm; she trembled not; her tears could not flow; but she divined the +meaning. ‘He is lost!’ said she; ‘the earth has swallowed him! but, as I +have shared with him the highest joy, so will I partake his torments. I +will follow; dare not to hinder me.’ I shrank back. + +“Like the phantoms I have seen in dreams, she glanced beside me; and, +clasping her hands above her head, lifted a steadfast look on the +hemisphere, and viewed the moon with an anxiousness that told me she was +bidding it farewell for ever. Observing a silken handkerchief on the +ground, with which she had but an hour ago bound her lover’s temples, she +snatched it up, and imprinting it with burning kisses, thrust it into her +bosom. Once more, expanding her arms in the last act of despair and +miserable passion, she threw herself, with a furious leap, into the +gulph. + +“To its margin I crawled on my knees, and, shuddering, looked down into +the gloom. There I remained in the most dreadful darkness; for now the +moon was sunk, the sky obscured with storms, and a tempestuous blast +ranging the ocean. Showers poured thick upon me, and the lightning, in +clear and frequent flashes, gave me terrifying glimpses of yonder +accursed chasm. + +“Stranger, dost thou believe in the great Being? in our Redeemer? in the +tenets of our faith?” I answered with reverence, but said I was no +Catholic. “Then,” continued the aged woman, “I will not declare before a +heretic what were the sacred visions of that night of vengeance!” She +paused; I was silent. + +After a short interval, with deep and frequent sighs, she resumed her +narrative. “Daylight began to dawn as if with difficulty, and it was +late before its radiance had tinged the watery and tempestuous clouds. I +was still kneeling by the gulph in prayer when the cliffs began to +brighten, and the beams of the morning sun to strike against me. Then +did I rejoice. Then no longer did I think myself of all human beings the +most abject and miserable. How different did I feel myself from those, +fresh plunged into the abodes of torment, and driven for ever from the +morning! + +“Three days elapsed in total solitude: on the fourth, some grave and +ancient persons arrived from Naples, who questioned me, repeatedly, about +the wretched lovers, and to whom I related their fate with every dreadful +particular. Soon after I learned that all discourse concerning them was +expressly stopped, and that no prayers were offered up for their souls.” + +With these words, as well as I recollect, the old woman ended her +singular narration. My blood thrilled as I walked by the gulph to call +my guide, who stood aloof under the cliffs. He seemed to think, from the +paleness of my countenance, that I had heard some gloomy prediction, and +shook his head when I turned round to bid my old hostess adieu! It was a +melancholy evening, and I could not refrain from tears, as, winding +through the defiles of the rocks, the sad scenes which had passed amongst +them recurred to my memory. + +Traversing a wild thicket, we soon regained the shore, where I rambled a +few minutes whilst the peasant went for the boatmen. The last streaks of +light were quivering on the waters when I stepped into the bark, and +wrapping myself up in an awning, slept till we reached Puzzoli, some of +whose inhabitants came forth with torches to light us home. + +I was vexed to be roused from my visions, and had much rather have sunk +in some deep cave of the Cimmerians than returned to Naples. + + + + +LETTER XXIV. + + + NAPLES, _November_ 9_th_. + +We made our excursion to Pompeii, passing through Portici, and over the +last lava of Mount Vesuvius. I experienced a strange mixture of +sensations, on surveying at once the mischiefs of the late eruption, in +the ruin of villages, farms, and vineyards; and all around them the most +luxuriant and delightful scenery of nature. It was impossible to resist +the impressions of melancholy from viewing the former, or not to admit +that gaiety of spirits which was inspired by the sight of the latter. I +say nothing of the Museum at Portici, which we saw in our way, on account +of the ample description of its contents already given to the public, and +because it should be described no otherwise than by an exact catalogue, +or by an exhibition of engravings. An hour and half brought us from this +celebrated repository to Pompeii. Nothing can be conceived more +delightful than the climate and situation of this city. It stands upon a +gently-rising hill, which commands the bay of Naples, with the islands of +Caprea and Ischia, the rich coasts of Sorento, the tower of Castel a +Mare; and on the other side, Mount Vesuvius, with the lovely country +intervening. It is judged to be about an Italian mile long, and three +and a half in circuit. We entered the city at the little gate which lies +towards Stabiæ. The first object upon entering is a colonnade round a +square court, which seems to have formed a place of arms. Behind the +colonnade is a series of little rooms, destined for the soldiers’ +barracks. The columns are of stone, plaistered with stucco and coloured. +On several of them we found names scratched in Greek and Latin; probably +those of the soldiers who had been quartered there. Helmets and armour +for various parts of the body were discovered amongst the skeletons of +some soldiers, whose hard fate had compelled them to wait on duty, at the +perilous moment of the city’s approaching destruction. Dolphins and +tridents, sculptured in relief on most of these relics of armour, seem to +show that they had been fabricated for naval service. Some of the +sculptures on the arms, probably belonging to officers, exhibit a greater +variety of ornaments. The taking of Troy, wrought on one of the helmets, +is beautifully executed; and much may be said in commendation of the work +of several others. + +We were next led to the remains of a temple and altar near these +barracks. From thence to some rooms floored (as indeed were almost all +that have been cleared from the rubbish) with tesselated mosaic pavements +of various patterns, and most of them of very excellent execution. Many +of these have been taken up, and now form the floors of the rooms in the +Museum at Portici, whose best ornaments of every kind are furnished from +the discoveries at Pompeii. From the rooms just mentioned we descended +into a subterraneous chamber, communicating with a bathing apartment. It +appears to have served as a kind of office to the latter. It was +probably here that the clothes used in bathing were washed. A fireplace, +a capacious cauldron of bronze, and earthen vessels, proper for that +purpose, found here, have given rise to the conjecture. Contiguous to +this room is a small circular one with a fireplace, which was the stove +to the bath. I should not forget to tell you that the skeleton of the +poor laundress (for so the antiquaries will have it), who was very +diligently washing the bathing clothes at the time of the eruption, was +found lying in an attitude of most resigned death, not far from the +washing cauldron in the office just mentioned. + +We were now conducted to the temple, or rather chapel, of Isis. The +chief remains are a covered cloister; the great altar on which was +probably exhibited the statue of the goddess; a little edifice to protect +the sacred well; the pediment of the chapel, with a symbolical vase in +relief; ornaments in stucco, on the front of the main building, +consisting of the lotus, the sistrum, representations of gods, +Harpocrates, Anubis, and other objects of Egyptian worship. The figures +on one side of this temple are Perseus with the Gorgon’s head; on the +other side, Mars and Venus, with Cupids bearing the arms of Mars. We +next observe three altars of different sizes. On one of them is said to +have been found the bones of a victim unconsumed, the last sacrifice +having probably been stopped by the dreadful calamity which had +occasioned it. From a niche in the temple was taken a statue of marble: +a woman pressing her lips with her forefinger. Within the area is a +well, where the priest threw the ashes of the sacrifices. We saw in the +Museum at Portici some lovely arabesque paintings, cut from the walls of +the cloister. The foliage which ran round the whole sweep of the +cloister itself is in the finest taste. A tablet of basalt with Egyptian +hieroglyphics was transported from thence to Portici, together with the +following inscription, taken from the front gate of the chapel: + + N. POPIDUS N. F. CELSINUS. + AEDEM ISIDIS TERRAE MOTU COLLAPSAM + A FUNDAMENTO P. SUA RESTITUIT + HUNC DECURIONES OB LIBERALITATEM + CUM ESSET ANNORUM SEX ORDINI SUO + GRATIS ADLEGERUNT. + +Behind one of the altars we saw a small room, in which, our guide +informed us, a human skeleton had been discovered, with some fish bones +on a plate near it, and a number of other culinary utensils. We then +passed on to another apartment, almost contiguous, where nothing more +remarkable had been found than an iron crow: an instrument with which +perhaps the unfortunate wretch, whose skeleton I have mentioned above, +had vainly endeavoured to extricate herself, this room being probably +barricaded by the matter of the eruption. This temple, rebuilt, as the +inscription imports, by N. Popidius, had been thrown down by a terrible +earthquake, that likewise destroyed a great part of the city (sixteen +years before the famous eruption of Vesuvius described by Pliny, which +happened in the first year of Titus, A.D. 79) and buried at once both +Herculaneum and Pompeii. As I lingered alone in these environs sacred to +Isis, some time after my companions had quitted them, I fell into one of +those reveries which my imagination is so fond of indulging; and +transporting myself seventeen hundred years back, fancied I was sailing +with the elder Pliny, on the first day’s eruption, from Misenum, towards +Retina and Herculaneum; and afterwards towards the villa of his friend +Pomponianus at Stabiæ. The course of our galley seldom carried us out of +sight of Pompeii, and as often as I could divert my attention from the +tremendous spectacle of the eruption, its enormous pillar of smoke +standing conically in the air, and tempests of liquid fire continually +bursting out from the midst of it, then raining down the sides of the +mountain, and flooding this beautiful coast with innumerable streams of +red-hot lava, methought I turned my eyes upon this fair city, whose +houses, villas, and gardens, with their long ranges of columned courts +and porticos, were made visible through the universal cloud of ashes, by +lightning from the mountain; and saw its distracted inhabitants, men, +women, and children, running to and fro in despair. But in one spot, I +mean the court and precincts of the temple, glared a continual light. It +was the blaze of the altars; towards which I discerned a long-robed train +of priests moving in solemn procession, to supplicate by prayer and +sacrifice, at this destructive moment, the intervention of Isis, who had +taught the first fathers of mankind the culture of the earth, and other +arts of civil life. Methought I could distinguish in their hands all +those paintings and images, sacred to this divinity, brought out on this +portentous occasion, from the subterraneous apartments and mystic cells +of the temple. There was every form of creeping thing and abominable +beast, every Egyptian pollution which the true prophet had seen in +vision, among the secret idolatries of the temple at Jerusalem. The +priests arrived at the altars; I saw them gathered round, and purifying +the three at once with the sacred meal; then, all moving slowly about +them, each with his right hand towards the fire: it was the office of +some to seize the firebrands of the altars, with which they sprinkled +holy water on the numberless bystanders. Then began the prayers, the +hymns, and lustrations of the sacrifice. The priests had laid the +victims with their throats downward upon the altars; were ransacking the +baskets of flour and salt for the knives of slaughter, and proceeding in +haste to the accomplishment of their pious ceremonies;—when one of our +company, who thought me lost, returned with impatience, and calling me +off to some new object, put an end to my strange reverie. We were now +summoned to pay some attention to the scene and corridor of a theatre, +not far from the temple. Little more of its remains being yet cleared +away, we hastened back to a small house and garden in the neighbourhood +of Isis. Sir W. Hamilton (in his account of Pompeii communicated to the +Society of Antiquaries), when speaking of this house, having taken +occasion to give a general idea of the private mansions of the ancient +citizens, I shall take the liberty of transcribing the whole passage. “A +covered cloister, supported by columns, goes round the house, as was +customary in many of the houses at Pompeii. The rooms in general are +very small, and in one, where an iron bedstead was found, the wall had +been pared away to make room for this bedstead; so that it was not six +feet square, and yet this room was most elegantly painted, and had a +tesselated or mosaic floor. The weight of the matter erupted from Mount +Vesuvius has universally damaged the upper parts of the houses; the lower +parts are mostly found as fresh as at the moment they were buried. The +plan of most of the houses at Pompeii is a square court, with a fountain +in the middle, and small rooms round, communicating with that court. By +the construction and distribution of the houses, it seems, the +inhabitants of Pompeii were fond of privacy. They had few windows +towards the street, except where, from the nature of the plan, they could +not avoid it; but even in that case the windows were placed too high for +anyone in the streets to overlook them. Their houses nearly resemble +each other, both as to distribution of plan, and in the manner of +finishing the apartments. The rooms are in general small, from ten to +twelve feet, and from fourteen to eighteen feet; few communications +between room and room, almost all without windows, except the apartments +situated to the gardens, which are thought to have been allotted to the +women. Their cortiles, or courts, were often surrounded by porticos, +even in very small houses; not but there were covered galleries before +the doors of their apartments to afford shade and shelter. No timber was +used in finishing their apartments, except in doors and windows. The +floors were generally laid in mosaic work. One general taste prevailed +of painting the sides and ceilings of the rooms. Small figures and +medallions of low relief were sometimes introduced. Their great variety +consisted in the colours, and in the choice and delicacy of the +ornaments, in which they displayed great harmony and taste. Their houses +were some two, others three stories high.” + +We now pursued our way through what is with some probability thought to +have been the principal street. Its narrowness, however, surprised me. +It is scarcely eleven feet wide, clear of the footways raised on each +side of it. The pavement is formed of a large sort of flattish-surfaced +pebbles; not laid down with the greatest evenness or regularity. The +sideways may be about a yard wide, each paved, irregularly enough, with +small stones. There are guard stones at equal intervals, to defend the +foot passengers from carriages and horses. I cannot say I found anything +either elegant or pleasant in the effect of this open street. But, as +the houses in general present little more than a dead wall towards it, I +do not imagine any views, beyond mere use and convenience, were consulted +in the plan. It led us, however, through the principal gate or entrance, +to a sort of Villa Rustica, without the limits of the city, which amply +recompensed our curiosity. The arcade surrounding a square garden, or +courtyard, offers itself first to the observer’s notice. Into this open +a number of coved rooms, adorned with paintings of figures and +arabesques. These rooms, though small, have a rich and elegant +appearance, their ornaments being very well executed, and retaining still +their original freshness. On the top of the arcade runs a walk or open +terrace, leading to the larger apartments of the higher story. One of +the rooms below has a capacious bow-window, where several panes of glass, +somewhat shattered, were found, but in sufficient preservation to show +that the ancients were not without knowledge of this species of +manufacture. As Horace and most of the old Latin Poets dwell much on the +praises of ancient conviviality, and appear to have valued themselves +considerably on their connoisseurship in wine, it was with great pleasure +I descended into the spacious cellars, sunk and vaulted beneath the +arcade above-mentioned. Several earthen amphoræ were standing in rows +against the walls, but the Massic and Falernian with which they were once +stored, had probably long been totally absorbed by the earth and ashes, +which were now the sole contents of these venerable jars. The ancients +are thought to have used oil, instead of corks, and that the stoppers +were of some matter that could make but little resistance, seems +confirmed by the entrance of that, which now supplied the place with +wine. The skeletons of several of the family who had possessed this +villa were discovered in the cellar, together with brass and silver +coins, and many such ornaments of dress as were of more durable +materials. On re-ascending, we went to the hot and cold baths; thence to +the back of the villa, separated by a passage from the more elegant part +of the house; we were shown some rooms which had been occupied by the +farmer, and from whence several implements of agriculture had been +carried, to enrich the collection at Portici. On the whole, the plan and +construction of this villa are extremely curious, and its situation very +happily chosen. I could not, however, help feeling some regret, in not +having had the good fortune to be present at the first discovery. It +must have been highly interesting to see all its ancient relics (the +greatest part of which are now removed) each in its proper place; or, at +least, in the place they had possessed for so long a course of years. +His Sicilian Majesty has ordered a correct draught of this villa to be +taken, which, it is hoped, will one day be published, with a complete +account of all the discoveries at Pompeii. + +Our next walk was to see the Columbarium, a very solemn looking edifice, +where probably the families of higher rank only at Pompeii, deposited the +urns of their deceased kindred. Several of these urns, with their ashes, +and one among the rest of glass, inclosed in another of earth, were dug +out of the sepulchral vaults. A quantity of marble statues, of but +ordinary execution, and colossal masks of terra-cotta, constituted the +chief ornaments of the Columbarium. It is situated without the gates, on +the same side of the city as the villa just described. There is +something characteristically sad in its aspect. It threw my mind into a +melancholy, but not disagreeable tone. Under the mixed sentiments it +inspired, I cast one lingering look back on the whole affecting scene of +ruins, over which I had for several hours been rambling, and quitted it +to return to Naples, not without great reluctance. + + + + +LETTER XXV. + + + ROME, _December_ 9_th_. + +My last letter was despatched in such a hurry that I had not time to +conclude it. This will be nearly as imperfect; but yet I cannot forbear +writing, having the vanity to believe that you are pleased with hearing +only that I am well. + +Your friend H. walked with me this morning in the Loggios of Raffaelle, +and we went afterwards to the Capitol. Nothing delighted me more in the +whole treasury of sculptures, than a figure in alto relievo of Endymion, +reclined on the mountain’s brow: his head falls upon his breast with an +ease and gracefulness, of which the Greeks alone had ever a true +conception. Most of the chambers, if you recollect, are filled with the +elegant remains of Adrian’s collection. The villa of that classic +emperor at Tivoli, must have been the most charming of structures. +Having travelled into various and remote parts of his empire, he +assembled their most valuable ornaments on one spot. Some of his +apartments were filled with the mysterious images and symbols of Egypt: +others with Eastern tripods and strange Adriatic vases. Though +enraptured with St. Peter’s and the Vatican, with the gardens and groves +of pine, that surround this interesting city, still I cannot help sighing +after my native hills and copses, which look (I know not how it happens) +more like the haunts of Pan than any I have seen in Italy. I eagerly +anticipate the placid hours we shall pass, perhaps next summer, on the +wild range which belongs to our sylvan deities. In their deep fastnesses +I will hide myself from the world, and never allow its glare to bicker +through my foliage. You will follow me, I trust, into retirement, and +equally forget the turmoils of mankind. What have we children of the +good Sylvanus to do with the miseries or triumphs of the savages that +prowl about London? Let us forget there exists such a city, and when +reposing amongst ivy and blossoms of bloom, imagine ourselves in the +ancient dominions of Saturn, and dream that we see him pass along with +his rustic attendants. + + + + +LETTER XXVI. + + + AUGSBURG, _January_ 20_th_, 1781. + +For these ten days past have I been traversing Lapland: winds whistling +in my ears, and cones showering down upon my head from the wilds of pine +through which our route conducted us. Often were we obliged to travel by +moonlight, and I leave you to imagine the awful aspect of the Tyrol +mountains buried in snow. + +I scarcely ventured to utter an exclamation of surprise, though prompted +by some of the most striking scenes in nature, lest I should interrupt +the sacred silence that prevails, during winter, in these boundless +solitudes. The streams are frozen, and mankind petrified, for aught I +know to the contrary, since whole days have we journeyed on without +perceiving the slightest hint of their existence. + +I never before felt the pleasure of discovering a smoke rising from a +cottage, or of hearing a heifer lowing in its stall; and could not have +supposed there was so much satisfaction in perceiving two or three fur +caps, with faces under them, peeping out of their concealments. I wish +you had been with me, exploring this savage region: wrapped up in our +bear-skins, we should have followed its secret avenues, and penetrated, +perhaps, into some enchanted cave lined with sables, where, like the +heroes of northern romances, we should have been waited upon by dwarfs, +and sung drowsily to repose. I think it no bad scheme to sleep away five +or six years to come, since every hour affairs are growing more and more +turbulent. Well, let them! provided we may enjoy, in security, the +shades of our thickets. + + + + +ADDITIONAL LETTERS. + + +[The following Letters, written in a second Excursion, which was +interrupted by a dangerous illness, are added on account of their +affinity to some of the preceding.] + + + +LETTER I. + + + COLOGNE, _May_ 28_th_, 1782. + +This is the first day of summer; the oak leaves expand, the roses blow, +butterflies are about, and I have spirits enough to write to you. We +have had clouded skies this fortnight past, and roads like the Slough of +Despond. Last Wednesday we were benighted on a dismal plain, apparently +boundless. The moon cast a sickly gleam, and now and then a blue meteor +glided along the morass which lay before us. + +After much difficulty we gained an avenue, and in an hour’s time +discovered something like a gateway, shaded by crooked elms and crowned +by a cluster of turrets. Here we paused and knocked; no one answered. +We repeated our knocks; the stout oaken gate returned a hollow sound; the +horses coughed, their riders blew their horns. At length the bars fell, +and we entered—by what means I am ignorant, for no human being appeared. + +A labyrinth of narrow winding alleys, dark as the vaults of a cathedral, +opened to our view. We kept wandering along, at least twenty minutes, +between lofty mansions with grated windows, and strange galleries, +projecting one over another, from which depended innumerable uncouth +figures and crosses, in iron-work, swinging to and fro with the wind. At +the end of this gloomy maze we found a long street, not fifteen feet +wide, I am certain; the houses still loftier than those in the alleys, +the windows thicker barred, and the gibbets (for I know not what else to +call them) more frequent. Here and there we saw lights glimmering in the +highest stories, and arches on the right and left, which seemed to lead +into retired courts and deeper darkness. + +Along one of these recesses we were jumbled, over such pavement as I hope +you may never tread upon; and, after parading round it, went out at the +same arch whence we came in. This procession seemed at first very +mystical, but it was too soon accounted for by our postillions, who +confessed they had lost their way. A council was held amongst them in +form, and then we struck into another labyrinth of hideous edifices, +habitations I will not venture to call them, as not a creature stirred; +though the rumbling of our carriages was echoed by all the vaults and +arches. + +Towards midnight we rested a few minutes, and a head poking out of a +casement directed us to the hotel of Der Heilige Geist, where an +apartment, thirty feet square, was prepared for our reception. + + + +LETTER II. + + + INSPRUCK, _June_ 4_th_. + +No sooner had we passed Fuezen than we entered the Tyrol, and the country +of wonders. Those lofty peaks, those steeps of wood I delight in, lay +before us. Innumerable clear springs gush out on every side, overhung by +luxuriant shrubs in blossom. The day was mild, though overcast, and a +soft blue vapour rested upon the hills, above which rise mountains that +bear plains of snow into the clouds. + +At night we lay at Nasariet, a village buried amongst savage +promontories. The next morning we advanced, in bright sunshine, into +smooth lawns on the slopes of mountains, scattered over with larches, +whose delicate foliage formed a light green veil to the azure sky. +Flights of birds were merrily travelling from spray to spray. I ran +delighted into this world of boughs, whilst C. sat down to draw the huts +which are scattered about for the shelter of herds, and discover +themselves amongst the groves in the most picturesque manner. + +These little edifices are uncommonly neat, and excite those ideas of +pastoral life to which I am so fondly attached. The turf from whence +they rise is enamelled, in the strict sense of the word, with flowers. A +sort of bluebell predominated, brighter than ultramarine; here and there +auriculas looked out of the moss, and I often reposed upon tufts of +ranunculus. Bushes of phillerea were very frequent, the sun shining full +on their glossy leaves. An hour passed away swiftly in these pleasant +groves, where I lay supine under a lofty fir, a tower of leaves and +branches. + + + +LETTER III. + + + PADUA, _June_ 14_th_. + +Once more, said I to myself, I shall have the delight of beholding +Venice; so got into an open chaise, the strangest curricle that ever man +was jolted in, and drove furiously along the causeways by the Brenta, +into whose deep waters it is a mercy, methinks, I was not precipitated. +Fiesso, the Dolo, the Mira, with all their gardens, statues, and palaces, +seemed flying after each other, so rapid was our motion. + +After a few hours’ confinement between close steeps, the scene opened to +the wide shore of Fusina. I looked up (for I had scarcely time to look +before) and beheld a troubled sky, shot with vivid red, the Lagunes +tinted like the opal, and the islands of a glowing flame-colour. The +lofty mountains of the distant continent appeared of a deep melancholy +grey, and innumerable gondolas were passing to and fro in all their +blackness. The sun, after a long struggle, was swallowed up in the +tempestuous clouds. + +In an hour we drew near to Venice, and saw its world of domes rising out +of the waters. A fresh breeze bore the toll of innumerable bells by my +ear. Sadness came over me as I entered the great canal, and recognised +(the scene of many a strange adventure) those solemn palaces, with their +lofty arcades and gloomy arches, beneath which I had so often sat. + +The Venetians being mostly at their villas on the Brenta, the town +appeared deserted. I visited, however, all my old haunts in the Place of +St. Mark, ran up the Campanile, and rowed backwards and forwards, +opposite the Ducal Palace, by moonlight. They are building a spacious +quay, near the street of the Sclavonians, fronting the island of San +Giorgio Maggiore, where I remained alone at least an hour, following the +wanderings of the moon amongst mountainous clouds, and listening to the +waters dashing against marble steps. + +I closed my evening at my friend M. de R.’s, and sung over the airs I +composed in the dawn of our acquaintance. + +Next morning the wind was uncommonly violent for the mild season of June, +and the canals much agitated; but I was determined to visit the Lido once +more, and bathe on my accustomed beach. The pines in the garden of the +Carthusians were nodding as I passed by in my gondola, which was very +poetically buffeted by the waves. + +Traversing the desert of locusts, I hailed the Adriatic, and plunged into +its bosom. The sea, delightfully cool, refreshed me to such a degree, +that, upon my return to Venice, I found myself able to thread its +labyrinths of streets, canals, and alleys, in search of amber and +Oriental curiosities. The variety of exotic merchandize, the perfume of +coffee, the shade of awnings, and the sight of Greeks and Asiatics +sitting crossed-legged under them, made me think myself in the bazaars of +Constantinople. + +’Tis certain my beloved town of Venice ever recalls a series of Eastern +ideas and adventures. I cannot help thinking St. Mark’s a mosque, and +the neighbouring palace some vast seraglio, full of arabesque saloons, +embroidered sofas, and voluptuous Circassians. + + + +LETTER IV. + + + PADUA, _June_ 19_th_. + +The morning was delightful, and St. Anthony’s bells in full chime. A +shower which had fallen in the night rendered the air so cool and +grateful, that Mad. de R. and myself determined to seize the opportunity +and go to Mirabello, a country house, which Algarotti had inhabited, +situate amongst the Euganean hills, eight or nine miles from Padua. + +Our road lay between poplar alleys and fields of yellow corn, overhung by +garlands of vine, most beautifully green. I soon found myself in the +midst of my favourite hills, upon slopes covered with clover, and shaded +by cherry-trees. Bending down their boughs I gathered the fruit, and +grew cooler and happier every instant. + +We dined very comfortably in a strange hall, where I pitched my +pianoforte, and sang the voluptuous airs of Bertoni’s Armida. That +enchantress might have raised her palace in this situation; and, had I +been Rinaldo, I certainly should not very soon have abandoned it. + +After dinner we drank coffee under some branching lemons, which sprang +from a terrace, commanding a boundless scene of towers and villas; tall +cypresses and shrubby hillocks rising, like islands, out of a sea of corn +and vine. + +Evening drawing on, and the breeze blowing fresh from the distant +Adriatic, I reclined on a slope, and turned my eyes anxiously towards +Venice; then upon some little fields hemmed in by chestnuts in blossom, +where the peasants were making their hay, and, from thence, to a +mountain, crowned by a circular grove of fir and cypress. + +In the centre of these shades some monks have a comfortable nest; +perennial springs, a garden of delicious vegetables, and, I dare say, a +thousand luxuries besides, which the poor mortals below never dream of. + +Had it not been late, I should certainly have climbed up to the grove, +and asked admittance into its recesses; but having no mind to pass the +night in this eyrie, I contented myself with the distant prospect. + + + +LETTER V. + + + ROME, _June_ 29_th_. + +It is needless for me to say I wish you with me: you know I do; you know +how delightfully we should ramble about Rome together. This evening, +instead of jiggeting along the Corso with the puppets in blue and silver +coats, and green and gold coaches, instead of bowing to Cardinal this, +and dotting my head to Abbé t’other, I strolled to the Coliseo, found out +my old haunts amongst its arches, and enjoyed the pure transparent sky +between groves of slender cypress. Then bending my course to the +Palatine Mount, I passed under the Arch of Titus, and gained the Capitol, +which was quite deserted, the world, thank Heaven, being all +slip-slopping in coffee-houses, or staring at a few painted boards +patched up before the Colonna palace, where, by the by, to-night is a +grand _rinfresco_ for all the dolls and doll-fanciers of Rome. I heard +their buzz at a distance; that was enough for me! + +Soothed by the rippling of waters, I descended the Capitoline stairs, and +leaned several minutes against one of the Egyptian lionesses. This +animal has no knack at oracles, or else it would have murmured out to me +the situation of that secret cave, where the wolf suckled Romulus and his +brother. + +About nine, I returned home, and am now writing to you like a prophet on +the housetop. Behind me rustle the thickets of Villa Medici; before, +lies roof beyond roof and dome beyond dome: these are dimly discovered; +but don’t you see the great cupola of cupolas, twinkling with +illuminations? The town is real, I am certain; but, surely, that +structure of fire must be visionary. + + + +LETTER VI. + + + ROME, _June_ 30_th_. + +As soon as the sun declined I strolled into the Villa Medici; but finding +it haunted by fine pink and yellow people, nay, even by the Spanish +Ambassador, and several more dignified carcasses, I moved off to the +Negroni garden. There I found what my soul desired, thickets of jasmine, +and wild spots overgrown with bay; long alleys of cypress totally +neglected, and almost impassable through the luxuriance of the +vegetation; on every side antique fragments, vases, sarcophagi, and +altars sacred to the Manes, in deep, shady recesses, which I am certain +the Manes must love. The air was filled with the murmurs of water, +trickling down basins of porphyry, and losing itself amongst overgrown +weeds and grasses. + +Above the wood and between its boughs appeared several domes, and a +strange lofty tower. I will not say they belong to St. Maria Maggiore; +no, they are fanes and porticos dedicated to Cybele, who delights in +sylvan situations. The forlorn air of this garden, with its high and +reverend shades, make me imagine it as old as the baths of Dioclesian, +which peep over one of its walls. Yes, I am persuaded some consul or +prætor dwelt here only fifty years ago. Would to God, our souls might be +transported to such solitary spots! where we might glide along the dark +alleys together, when bodies were gone to bed. I discovered a little +cave that would just suit us; celandine, Venus’ hair, and a thousand +delicate plants, growing downwards from the cave; beneath lies a clear +spring. + +At the close of day, I repaired to the platform before the stately +porticos of the Lateran. There I sat, folded up in myself. Some priests +jarred the iron gates behind me. I looked over my shoulder through the +portals, into the portico. Night began to fill it with darkness. Upon +turning round, the sad waste of the Campagna met my eyes, and I wished to +go home, but had not the power. A pressure, like that I have felt in +horrid dreams, seemed to fix me to the pavement. + +I was thus in a manner forced to view the dreary scene, the long line of +aqueducts and lonesome towers. Perhaps the unwholesome vapours, rising +like blue mists from the plains, affected me. I know not how it was; but +I never experienced such strange, such chilling terrors. About ten +o’clock, thank God, the spell dissolved; I found my limbs at liberty, and +returned home. + + + +LETTER VII. + + + NAPLES, _July_ 8_th_. + +The sea-breezes restored me to life. I set the heat of midday at +defiance, and do not believe in the horrors of the sirocco. Yesterday I +passed at Portici, with Lady H. The morning, refreshing and pleasant, +invited us at an early hour into the open air. We drove, in an uncovered +chaise, to the royal Bosquetto: no other carriage than Sir W.’s is +allowed to enter its alleys. We breathed a fresh air untainted by dust +or garlic. Every now and then, amidst wild bushes of ilex and myrtle, +one finds a graceful antique statue, sometimes a fountain, and often a +rude knoll, where the rabbits sit undisturbed, contemplating the blue +glittering bay; at least, I should do so, if I were a rabbit. + +The walls of this shady inclosure are lined with Peruvian aloes, whose +white blossoms, scented like those of the magnolia, form the most +magnificent clusters. They are plants to salute respectfully as one +passes by, such is their size and dignity. In the midst of the thickets +stands the King’s Pagliaro, surrounded by gardens with hedges of +luxuriant jasmine, whose branches are suffered to flaunt as much as +Nature pleases. + +The morning sun darted his first rays on their flowers just as I entered +this pleasant spot. The hut looks as if erected in the days of fairy +pastoral life; its neatness is quite delightful. Bright tiles compose +the floor; straw, nicely platted, covers the walls. In the middle of the +room, you see a table spread with a beautiful Persian carpet; at one end, +four niches with mattresses of silk, where the King and his favourites +repose after dinner; at the other, a white marble basin. Mount a little +staircase, and you find yourself in another apartment, formed by the +roof, which being entirely composed of glistening straw, casts that +comfortable yellow glow I admire. From the windows you look into the +garden, not flourished with parterres, but divided into plats of fragrant +herbs and flowers, with here and there a little marble table, or basin of +the purest water. + +These sequestered inclosures are cultivated with the greatest care, and +so frequently watered, that I observed lettuces, and a variety of other +vegetables, as fresh as in our green England. + + + + +AN EXCURSION TO THE GRAND CHARTREUSE IN THE YEAR 1778. + + +THE GRAND CHARTREUSE has exceeded my expectations; it is more wonderfully +wild than I can describe, or even you can imagine. It has possessed me +to such a degree that at present I can neither think, speak, nor write +upon any other subject. + +_June_ 5_th_.—I left Geneva, and after passing through a succession of +valleys between innumerable mountains, and after crossing a variety of +picturesque bridges, thrown over the streams which water them, arrived at +Aix, in Savoy, famous for its baths, which, as disagreeable things are +generally the most salutary, ought doubtless to be of the greatest +efficacy; for more uninviting objects one seldom meets with. + +Advancing beneath a little eminence, partly rock, partly wall, we +discovered the principal bath, filled with a blue reeking water, whose +very steam is sufficient to seethe one without further assistance. + +Scarce had we stood looking on it a minute, before down dashed three or +four dirty boys, as copper-coloured as the natives of Bengal; who by +splashing us all over, and swimming about _à la crapaudine_, convinced us +that it was not their fault, if we would not have companions in the +delights of bathing. I soon hurried away from this salubrious cauldron, +and stepping into a little chapel hard by, where they were singing +vespers, prayed heartily to the Virgin, that I might never need the +assistance of those wonder-working waters over which she presides. As +there was but little company in the town, and little amusement, I went to +bed at nine, and rose at four the next morning, that I might reach before +sunset the celebrated road, which Charles Emanuel had cut through a rocky +mountain. My plan succeeded, and after dining at Chambery (a place +scarce worth speaking of to you), and passing by a cataract that throws +itself from a lofty steep, I began to discover a beautiful woody vale, +terminated on one side by the hallowed cliffs of the Grand Chartreuse, +and on the other by the mountain which Charles Emanuel had perforated in +so extraordinary a manner. The sun was just sinking in a brilliant +cloud, which seemed to repose on a swelling hill, covered with cattle, +when we quitted the cheerful valley, and began to descend between two +ridges of precipices, that at some distance had the appearance of +towering ramparts. Pursuing our route, we found ourselves in a deep +cleft, surrounded by caverns, echoing with a thousand rills which trickle +down their sides, and mingling their murmurs with the rattling of our +wheels and the steps of our horses, infinitely repeated and multiplied, +formed, altogether, the strangest combination of sounds that ever reached +my ears. The road itself is admirably cut, and hewn with such neatness +that, were it not for the savage and desolate air of its environs, I +should have imagined myself approaching some grand castle or considerable +city. Toward the summits of the precipices, that in some places rise to +a majestic elevation (the two sides here and there nearly meeting in an +arch), hang light woods of glossy green, which, being agitated by a +gentle wind, cast a moving shadow over the cleft beneath, and, at a +little distance, gave our road the appearance of a chequered pavement. + +Having wound through the bosom of the mountain for some time, I was +struck by the unexpected appearance of a grand edifice, resembling a vast +portal, supported by Doric pilasters, and crowned with an ornamented +pediment. Upon my nearer approach I found a smooth tablet filling up the +space I had allotted for an entrance, on which was engraven a pompous +Latin inscription, setting forth with what incredible labour and +perseverance his Majesty, Charles Emanuel the Second of Sardinia, Cyprus, +and Jerusalem, King, had cut this road through the mountain; which great +enterprise, though unattempted by the Romans, and despaired of by other +nations, was executed under his auspices. I very sincerely wished him +joy, and, as the evening was growing rather cool, was not sorry to +perceive, through an opening in the rocks, a wide-extended plain, +interspersed with meadows, embosomed by woods, in which I distinguished +Les Echelles, a village, where we were to lie, with its chimneys smoking, +under the base of one of the Carthusian mountains, round which had +gathered a concourse of red and greyish clouds. + +The twilight was beginning to prevail when we reached our inn, and very +glad I was to leave it at the first dawn of the next day. We were now +obliged to abandon our coach; and taking horse, proceeded towards the +mountains, which, with the valleys between them, form what is called the +Desert of the Carthusians. + +In an hour’s time we were drawing near, and could discern the opening of +a narrow valley overhung by shaggy precipices, above which rose lofty +peaks, covered to their very summits with wood. We could now distinguish +the roar of torrents, and a confusion of strange sounds, issuing from +dark forests of pine. I confess at this moment I was somewhat startled. +I experienced some disagreeable sensations, and it was not without a +degree of unwillingness that I left the gay pastures and enlivening +sunshine, to throw myself into this gloomy and disturbed region. How +dreadful, thought I, must be the despair of those who enter it never to +return! + +But after the first impression was worn away, all my curiosity redoubled; +and desiring our guide to put forward with greater speed, we made such +good haste, that the meadows and cottages of the plain were soon left far +behind, and we found ourselves on the banks of the torrent, whose +agitation answered the ideas which its sounds had inspired. Into the +midst of these troubled waters we were obliged to plunge with our horses, +and, when landed on the opposite shore, were by no means displeased to +have passed them. + +We had now closed with the forests, over which the impending rocks +diffused an additional gloom. The day grew obscured by clouds, and the +sun no longer enlightened the distant plains, when we began to ascend +towards the entrance of the desert, marked by two pinnacles of rock far +above us, beyond which a melancholy twilight prevailed. Every moment we +approached nearer and nearer to the sounds which had alarmed us; and, +suddenly emerging from the woods, we discovered several mills and forges, +with many complicated machines of iron, hanging over the torrent, that +threw itself headlong from a cleft in the precipices; on one side of +which I perceived our road winding along, till it was stopped by a +venerable gateway. A rock above one of the forges was hollowed into the +shape of a round tower, of no great size, but resembling very much an +altar in figure; and, what added greatly to the grandeur of the object, +was a livid flame continually palpitating upon it, which the gloom of the +valley rendered perfectly discernible. + +The road, at a small distance from this remarkable scene, was become so +narrow, that, had my horse started, I should have been but too well +acquainted with the torrent that raged beneath; dismounting, therefore, I +walked towards the edge of the great fall, and there, leaning on a +fragment of cliff, looked down into the foaming gulph, where the waters +were hurled along over broken pines, pointed rocks, and stakes of iron. +Then, lifting up my eyes, I took in the vast extent of the forests, +frowning on the brows of the mountains. + +It was here first I felt myself seized by the genius of the place, and +penetrated with veneration of its religious gloom; and, I believe, +uttered many extravagant exclamations; but, such was the dashing of the +wheels, and the rushing of the waters at the bottom of the forges, that +what I said was luckily undistinguishable. + +I was not yet, however, within the consecrated inclosure, and therefore +not perfectly contented; so, leaving my fragment, I paced in silence up +the path which led to the great portal. When we arrived before it, I +rested a moment, and leaning against the stout oaken gate, which closed +up the entrance to this unknown region, felt at my heart a certain awe, +that brought to my mind the sacred terror of those, in ancient days, +going to be admitted into the Eleusinian mysteries. + +My guide gave two knocks; after a solemn pause, the gate was slowly +opened, and all our horses having passed through it, was again carefully +closed. + +I now found myself in a narrow dell, surrounded on every side by peaks of +the mountains, rising almost beyond my sight, and shelving downwards till +their bases were hidden by the foam and spray of the water, over which +hung a thousand withered and distorted trees. The rocks seemed crowding +upon me, and, by their particular situation, threatened to obstruct every +ray of light; but, notwithstanding the menacing appearance of the +prospect, I still kept following my guide, up a craggy ascent, partly +hewn through a rock, and bordered by the trunks of ancient fir-trees, +which formed a fantastic barrier, till we came to a dreary and exposed +promontory, impending directly over the dell. + +The woods are here clouded with darkness, and the torrents, rushing with +additional violence, are lost in the gloom of the caverns below; every +object, as I looked downwards from my path, that hung midway between the +base and the summit of the cliff, was horrid and woeful. The channel of +the torrent sunk deep amidst frightful crags, and the pale willows and +wreathed roots spreading over it, answered my ideas of those dismal +abodes, where, according to the druidical mythology, the ghosts of +conquered warriors were bound. I shivered whilst I was regarding these +regions of desolation, and, quickly lifting up my eyes to vary the scene, +I perceived a range of whitish cliffs, glistening with the light of the +sun, to emerge from these melancholy forests. + +On a fragment that projected over the chasm, and concealed for a moment +its terrors, I saw a cross, on which was written VIA COELI. The cliffs +being the heaven to which I now aspired, we deserted the edge of the +precipice, and ascending, came to a retired nook of the rocks, in which +several copious rills had worn irregular grottoes. Here we reposed an +instant, and were enlivened with a few sunbeams, piercing the thickets +and gilding the waters that bubbled from the rock, over which hung +another cross, inscribed with this short sentence, which the situation +rendered wonderfully pathetic, O SPES UNICA! the fervent exclamation of +some wretch disgusted with the world, whose only consolation was found in +this retirement. + +We quitted this solitary cross to enter a thick forest of beech-trees, +that screened in some measure the precipices on which they grew, +catching, however, every instant terrifying glimpses of the torrent +below. Streams gushed from every crevice in the cliffs, and falling over +the mossy roots and branches of the beech, hastened to join the great +torrent, athwart which I every now and then remarked certain tottering +bridges, and sometimes could distinguish a Carthusian crossing over to +his hermitage, that just peeped above the woody labyrinths on the +opposite shore. + +Whilst I was proceeding amongst the innumerable trunks of the beech +trees, my guide pointed out to me a peak, rising above the others, which +he called the Throne of Moses. If that prophet had received his +revelations in this desert, no voice need have declared it holy ground, +for every part of it is stamped with such a sublimity of character as +would alone be sufficient to impress the idea. + +Having left these woods behind, and crossing a bridge of many lofty +arches, I shuddered once more at the impetuosity of the torrent; and, +mounting still higher, came at length to a kind of platform before two +cliffs, joined by an arch of rock, under which we were to pursue our +road. Below we beheld again innumerable streams, turbulently +precipitating themselves from the woods, and lashing the base of the +mountains, mossed over with a dark sea-green. + +In this deep hollow such mists and vapours prevailed as hindered my +prying into its recesses; besides, such was the dampness of the air, that +I hastened gladly from its neighbourhood, and passing under the second +portal, beheld with pleasure the sunbeams gilding the Throne of Moses. + +It was now about ten o’clock, and my guide assured me I should soon +discover the convent. Upon this information I took new courage, and +continued my route on the edge of the rocks, till we struck into another +gloomy grove. After turning about it for some time, we entered again +into the glare of daylight, and saw a green valley skirted by ridges of +cliffs and sweeps of wood before us. Towards the farther end of this +inclosure, on a gentle acclivity, rose the revered turrets of the +Carthusians, which extend in a long line on the brow of the hill; beyond +them a woody amphitheatre majestically presents itself, terminated by +spires of rock and promontories lost amongst the clouds. + +The roar of the torrent was now but faintly distinguishable, and all the +scenes of horror and confusion I had passed, were succeeded by a sacred +and profound calm. I traversed the valley with a thousand sensations I +despair of describing, and stood before the gate of the convent with as +much awe as some novice or candidate, newly arrived, to solicit the holy +retirement of the order. + +As admittance is more readily granted to the English than to almost any +other nation, it was not long before the gates opened, and whilst the +porter ordered our horses to the stable, we entered a court watered by +two fountains and built round with lofty edifices, characterized by a +noble simplicity. + +The interior portal, opening, discovered an arched aisle, extending till +the perspective nearly met, along which windows, but scantily distributed +between the pilasters, admitted a pale solemn light, just sufficient to +distinguish the objects with a picturesque uncertainty. We had scarcely +set our feet on the pavement when the monks began to issue from an arch, +about half way down, and passing in a long succession from their chapel, +bowed reverently with much humility and meekness, and dispersed in +silence, leaving one of their body alone in the aisle. + +The Father Coadjutor (for he only remained) advanced towards us with +great courtesy, and welcomed us in a manner which gave me far more +pleasure than all the frivolous salutations and affected greetings so +common in the world beneath. After asking us a few indifferent +questions, he called one of the lay brothers, who live in the convent +under less severe restrictions than the fathers whom they serve, and +ordering him to prepare our apartment, conducted us to a large square +hall with casement windows, and, what was more comfortable, an enormous +chimney, whose hospitable hearth blazed with a fire of dry aromatic fir, +on each side of which were two doors that communicated with the neat +little cells destined for our bedchambers. + +Whilst he was placing us round the fire, a ceremony by no means +unimportant in the cold climate of these upper regions, a bell rang which +summoned him to prayers. After charging the lay brother to set before us +the best fare their desert afforded, he retired, and left us at full +liberty to examine our chambers. + +The weather lowered, and the casements permitted very little light to +enter the apartment: but on the other side it was amply enlivened by the +gleams of the fire, that spread all over a certain comfortable air, which +even sunshine but rarely diffuses. Whilst the showers descended with +great violence, the lay brother and another of his companions were +placing an oval table, very neatly carved and covered with the finest +linen, in the middle of the hall; and, before we had examined a number of +portraits which were hung in all the panels of the wainscot, they called +us to a dinner widely different from what might have been expected in so +dreary a situation. The best fish, the most exquisite fruits, and a +variety of dishes, excellent without the assistance of meat, were served +up with an order and arrangement that showed it was not the first time +they had entertained in the noblest manner. But I was not more struck +with the delicacy of the entertainment, than with the extreme cleanness +and English-like neatness of the whole apartment and its furniture. A +marble fountain, particularly, gave it a very agreeable aid, and the +water that fell from it into a porphyry shell was remarkable for its +clearness and purity. Our attendant friar was helping us to some +Burgundy, which we pronounced of very respectable antiquity, when the +Coadjutor returned, accompanied by two other fathers, the Secretary and +Procurator, whom he presented to us. You would have been both charmed +and surprised with the cheerful resignation that appeared in their +countenances, and with the easy turn of their conversation. + +The Coadjutor, though equally kind, was as yet more reserved: his +countenance, however, spoke for him without the aid of words, and there +was in his manner a mixture of dignity and humility, which could not fail +to interest. There were moments when the recollection of some past event +seemed to shade his countenance with a melancholy that rendered it still +more affecting. I should suspect he formerly possessed a great share of +natural vivacity (something of it being still, indeed, apparent in his +more unguarded moments); but this spirit is almost entirely subdued by +the penitence and mortification of the order. + +The secretary displayed a very considerable share of knowledge in the +political state of Europe, furnished probably by the extensive +correspondence these fathers preserve with the three hundred and sixty +subordinate convents, dispersed throughout all those countries where the +court of Rome still maintains its influence. + +In the course of our conversation they asked me innumerable questions +about England, where formerly, they said, many monasteries had belonged +to their order; and principally that of W., which they had learnt to be +now in my possession. + +The Secretary, almost with tears in his eyes, beseeched me to revere +these consecrated edifices, and to preserve their remains, for the sake +of St. Hugo, their canonized Prior. I replied greatly to his +satisfaction, and then declaimed so much in favour of Saint Bruno, and +the holy prior of Witham, that the good fathers grew exceedingly +delighted with the conversation, and made me promise to remain some days +with them. I readily complied with their request, and, continuing in the +same strain, that had so agreeably affected their ears, was soon +presented with the works of Saint Bruno, whom I so zealously admired. + +After we had sat extolling them, and talking upon much the same sort of +subjects for about an hour, the Coadjutor proposed a walk amongst the +cloisters and galleries, as the weather would not admit of any longer +excursion. He leading the way, we ascended a flight of steps, which +brought us to a gallery, on each side of which a vast number of pictures, +representing the dependent convents, were ranged; for I was now in the +capital of the order, where the General resides, and from whence he +issues forth his commands to his numerous subjects; who depute the +superiors of their respective convents, whether situated in the wilds of +Calabria, the forests of Poland, or in the remotest districts of Portugal +and Spain, to assist at the grand chapter, held annually under him, a +week or two after Easter. + +This reverend father Dom Biclét died about ten days before our arrival: a +week ago they elected the Pere Robinét prior of the Carthusian convent at +Paris in his room, and two fathers were now on their route to apprise him +of their choice, and to salute him General of the Carthusians. During +this interregnum the Coadjutor holds the first rank in the temporal, and +the Grand Vicaire in the spiritual, affairs of the order; both of which +are very extensive. + +If I may judge from the representations of the different convents, which +adorn this gallery, there are many highly worthy of notice, for the +singularity of their situations, and the wild beauties of the landscapes +which surround them. The Venetian Chartreuse, placed in a woody island, +and that of Rome, rising from amongst groups of majestic ruins, struck me +as peculiarly pleasing. Views of the English monasteries hung formerly +in such a gallery, but had been destroyed by fire, together with the old +convent. The list only remains, with but a very few written particulars +concerning them. + +Having amused myself for some time with the pictures, and the +descriptions the Coadjutor gave me of them, we quitted the gallery and +entered a kind of chapel, in which were two altars with lamps burning +before them, on each side of a lofty portal. This opened into a grand +coved hall, adorned with historical paintings of St. Bruno’s life, and +the portraits of the Generals of the order, since the year of the great +founder’s death (1085) to the present time. Under these portraits are +the stalls for the Superiors, who assist at the grand convocation. In +front appears the General’s throne; above, hangs a representation of the +canonized Bruno, crowned with stars. + +Were I, after walking along the dim cloisters, and passing through the +antechapel, faintly illuminated by a solitary lamp, suddenly to enter +this hall at midnight, when the convocation is assembled, and the synod +of venerable fathers, all in solemn order, surrounding the successor of +Bruno, it would be a long while, I believe, before I could recover from +the surprise of so august a spectacle. It must indeed be a very imposing +sight: the gravity they preserve on these occasions, their venerable age +(for Superiors cannot be chosen young), and the figures of their deceased +Generals, dimly discovered above, may surely be allowed to awe even an +heretical spectator into a momentary respect for the order. For my own +part, I must confess, that the hall, though divested of all this +accompaniment, filled me with a veneration I scarcely knew how to account +for; perhaps the portraits inspired it. They were all well executed, and +mostly in attitudes of adoration. The form of Bruno was almost lost in +the splendour of the stars which hovered over him. I could in some +moments fancy myself capable of plunging into the horror of a desert, and +foregoing all the vanities and delights of the world, to secure my memory +so sublime a consecration. + +The Coadjutor seemed charmed with the respect with which I looked round +on these holy objects; and if the hour of vespers had not been drawing +near, we should have spent more time in the contemplation of Bruno’s +miracles, portrayed on the lower panels of the hall. We left that room +to enter a winding passage (lighted by windows in the roof), that brought +us to a cloister six hundred feet in length, from which branched off two +others, joining a fourth of the same most extraordinary dimensions. Vast +ranges of slender pillars extend round the different courts of the +edifice, many of which are thrown into gardens belonging to particular +cells. + +We entered one of them: its inhabitant received us with much civility, +walked before us through a little corridor that looked on his garden, +showed us his narrow dwelling, and, having obtained leave of the +Coadjutor to speak, gave us his benediction, and beheld us depart with +concern. Nature has given this poor monk very considerable talents for +painting. He has drawn the portrait of the late General, in a manner +that discovers great facility of execution; but he is not allowed to +exercise his pencil on any other subject, lest he should be amused; and +amusement in this severe order is a crime. He had so subdued, so +mortified an appearance, that I was not sorry to hear the bell, which +summoned the Coadjutor to prayers, and prevented my entering any more of +the cells. We continued straying from cloister to cloister, and +wandering along the winding passages and intricate galleries of this +immense edifice, whilst the Coadjutor was assisting at vespers. + +In every part of the structure reigned the most death-like calm: no sound +reached my ears but the “minute drops from off the eaves.” I sat down in +a niche of the cloister, and fell into a profound reverie, from which I +was recalled by the return of our conductor; who, I believe, was almost +tempted to imagine, from the cast of my countenance, that I was +deliberating whether I should not remain with them for ever. + +But I soon roused myself, and testified some impatience to see the great +chapel, at which we at length arrived, after traversing another labyrinth +of cloisters. The gallery immediately before its entrance appeared quite +gay, in comparison with the others I had passed, and owes its +cheerfulness to a large window (ornamented with slabs of polished +marble), that admits the view of a lovely wood. Being neatly glazed, and +free from paintings or Gothic ornaments, it allows a full blaze of light +to dart on the chapel door; which is also adorned with marble, in a plain +but noble style of architecture. + +The father sacristan stood ready on the steps of the portal to grant us +admittance; and, throwing open the valves, we entered the chapel and were +struck by the justness of its proportions, the simple majesty of the +arched roof, and the mild solemn light, equally diffused over every part +of the edifice. No tawdry ornaments, no glaring pictures, disgraced the +sanctity of the place. The high altar, standing distinct from the walls, +which were hung with a rich velvet, was the only object on which many +ornaments were lavished, and even there the elegance of the workmanship +concealed the glare of the materials, which were silver, solid gold, and +the most costly gems. It being Whit-Sunday, this altar was covered with +statues of gold, shrines, and candelabra of the stateliest shape and most +delicate execution. Four of the latter, of a gigantic size, were placed +on the steps; which, together with part of the inlaid floor within the +choir, were spread with beautiful carpets. + +The illumination of so many tapers striking on the shrines, censers, and +pillars of polished jasper, sustaining the canopy of the altar, produced +a wonderful effect; and, as the rest of the chapel was visible only by +the faint external light admitted from above, the splendour and dignity +of the altar was enhanced by contrast. I retired a moment from it, and +seating myself in one of the furthermost stalls of the choir, looked +towards it, and fancied it had risen like an exhalation. + +Here I remained several minutes breathing nothing but incense, and should +not have quitted my station soon, had I not been apprehensive of +disturbing the devotions of two aged fathers who had just entered, and +were prostrating themselves before the steps of the altar. These +venerable figures added greatly to the solemnity of the scene; which as +the day declined increased every moment in splendour; for the sparkling +of several lamps of chased silver that hung from the roofs, and the +gleaming of nine huge tapers which I had not before noticed, began to be +visible just as I left the chapel. + +Passing through the sacristy, where lay several piles of rich embroidered +vestments, purposely displayed for our inspection, we regained the +cloister which led to our apartment, where the supper was ready prepared. +We had scarcely finished it, when the Coadjutor, and the fathers who had +accompanied us before, returned, and ranging themselves round the fire, +resumed the conversation about St. Bruno. + +Finding me very piously disposed by the wonders I had seen in the day to +listen to things of a miraculous nature, they began to relate the +inspirations they had received from him, and his mysterious apparitions. +I was all attention, respect, and credulity. The old Secretary worked +himself up to such a pitch of enthusiasm, that I am very much inclined to +imagine he believed, in these moments, all the marvellous events he +related. The Coadjutor being less violent in his pretensions to St. +Bruno’s modern miracles, contented himself with enumerating the noble +works he had done in the days of his fathers, and in the old time before +them. + +It grew rather late before my kind hosts had finished their narrations, +and I was not sorry, after all the exercise I had taken, to return to my +cell, where everything invited to repose. I was charmed with the +neatness and oddity of my little apartment; its cabin-like bed, oratory, +and ebony crucifix; in short, everything it contained; not forgetting the +aromatic odour of the pine, with which it was roofed, floored, and +wainscoted. The night was luckily dark. Had the moon appeared, I could +not have prevailed upon myself to have quitted her till very late; but, +as it happened, I crept into my cabin, and was by “whispering winds soon +lulled asleep.” + +Eight o’clock struck next morning before I awoke; when, to my great +sorrow, I found the peaks, which rose above the convent, veiled in +vapours, and the rain descending with violence. + +After we had breakfasted by the light of our fire (for the casements +admitted but a very feeble gleam), I sat down to the works of St. Bruno; +of all medleys the strangest. Allegories without end: a +theologico-natural history of birds, beasts, and fishes: several chapters +on paradise; the delights of solitude; the glory of Solomon’s temple; the +new Jerusalem; and numberless other wonderful subjects, full of +enthusiasm and superstition. + +Saint Bruno was certainly a mighty genius; I admire the motives which +drew him to this desert; but perhaps before we come to that part of the +story, you will like to know what preceded it. My Saint (for Bruno has +succeeded Thomas of Canterbury) was of noble descent, and possessed +considerable wealth. He was not less remarkable for the qualities of his +mind, and his talents gained him the degree of Master of the great +sciences in the University of Rheims; here he contracted a friendship +with Odo, afterwards Urban the Second. Being always poetic, singular, +and visionary, he soon grew disgusted with the world, and began early in +life to sigh after retirement. His residence at Grenoble, where he was +invited by Hugo, its bishop, determined him to the monastic state. + +This venerable prelate imparted to him a vision in which he seemed to +behold the desert and mountain beyond his city visible in the dead of +night by the streaming of seven lucid stars that hung directly over them. +Whilst he was ardently gazing at this wonder, a still voice was heard +declaring it the future abode of Bruno—by him to be consecrated as a +retirement for holy men desirous of holding converse with their God. No +shepherd’s pipe was to be heard within these precincts; no huntsman’s +profane feet to tread these silent regions, which were to be dedicated +solely to their Creator; no woman was to ascend this mountain, nor +violate by her allurements the sacred repose of its inhabitants. + +Such were the first institutions of the order as the inspired Bishop of +Grenoble delivered them to Bruno, who selecting a few persons that, like +himself, contemned the splendours of the world and the charms of society, +repaired with them to this spot; and, in the darkest parts of the forests +which shade the most gloomy recesses of the mountains, founded the first +convent of Carthusians, long since destroyed. + +Several years passed away, whilst Bruno was employed in actions of the +most exalted piety; and, the fame of his exemplary conduct reaching Rome +(where his friend had been lately invested with the papal tiara), the +whole conclave was desirous of seeing him, and entreated Urban to invite +him to Rome. The request of Christ’s vicegerent was not to be refused; +and Bruno quitted his beloved solitude, leaving some of his disciples +behind, who propagated his doctrines, and tended zealously the infant +order. + +The pomp of the Roman court soon disgusted the rigid Bruno, who had +weaned himself entirely from worldly affections. + +Being wholly intent on futurity, the bustle and tumults of a busy +metropolis became so irksome that he supplicated Urban for leave to +retire; and, having obtained it, left Rome, and immediately seeking the +wilds of Calabria, there sequestered himself in a lonely hermitage, +calmly expecting his last moments. Many are the miracles which he +wrought and which his canonized bones have since effected: angels (it is +said), hovered round him in his departing hour, and bore him on their +wings to heaven. The different accounts of his translation are almost +endless; and as they are all nearly in the same style, it will be +needless to recite them. + +I had scarcely finished taking extracts from the life and writings of St. +Bruno when the dinner appeared, consisting of everything most delicate +which a strict adherence to the rules of meagre could allow. The good +fathers returned as usual with the dessert, and served up an admirable +dish of miracles, well seasoned with the devil and prettily garnished +with angels and moonbeams. {284} + +Our conversation was interrupted, very agreeably, by the sudden intrusion +of the sun, which, escaping from the clouds, shone in full splendour +above the highest peak of the mountains, and the vapours fleeting by +degrees discovered the woods in all the freshness of their verdure. The +pleasure I received from seeing this new creation rising to view was very +lively, and, as the fathers assured me the humidity of their walks did +not often continue longer than the showers, I left my hall. + +Crossing the court, I hastened out of the gates, and running swiftly +along a winding path on the side of the meadow, bordered by the forests, +enjoyed the charms of the prospect, inhaled the perfume of the woodlands, +and now turning towards the summits of the precipices that encircled this +sacred inclosure, admired the glowing colours they borrowed from the sun, +contrasted by the dark hues of the forest. Now, casting my eyes below, I +suffered them to roam from valley to valley, and from one stream (beset +with tall pines and tufted beech trees) to another. The purity of the +air in these exalted regions, and the lightness of my own spirits, almost +seized me with the idea of treading in that element. + +Not content with the distant beauties of the hanging rocks and falling +waters, I still kept running wildly along, with an eagerness and rapidity +that, to a sober spectator, would have given me the appearance of one +possessed, and with reason, for I was affected with the scene to a degree +I despair of expressing. + +Whilst I was continuing my course, pursued by a thousand strange ideas, a +father, who was returning from some distant hermitage, stopped my career, +and made signs for me to repose myself on a bench erected under a +neighbouring shed; and, perceiving my agitation and disordered looks, +fancied, I believe, that one of the bears that lurk near the snows of the +mountains had alarmed me by his sudden appearance. + +The good old man, expressing by his gestures that he wished me to recover +myself in quiet on the bench, hastened, with as much alacrity as his age +permitted, to a cottage adjoining the shed, and returning in a few +moments, presented me some water in a wooden bowl, into which he let fall +several drops of an elixir composed of innumerable herbs, and having +performed this deed of charity, signified to me by a look, in which +benevolence, compassion, and perhaps some little remains of curiosity +were strongly painted, how sorry he was to be restrained by his vow of +silence from inquiring into the cause of my agitation, and giving me +farther assistance. I answered also by signs, on purpose to carry on the +adventure, and suffered him to depart with all his conjectures +unsatisfied. + +No sooner had I lost sight of the benevolent hermit, than I started up, +and pursued my path with my former agility, till I came to the edge of a +woody dell, that divided the meadow on which I was running from the +opposite promontory. Here I paused, and looking up at the cliffs, now +but faintly illumined by the sun, which had been some time sinking on our +narrow horizon, reflected that it would be madness to bewilder myself, at +so late an hour, in the mazes of the forest. Being thus determined, I +abandoned with regret the idea of penetrating into the lovely region +before me, and contented myself for some moments with marking the pale +tints of the evening gradually overspreading the cliffs, so lately +flushed with the gleams of the setting sun. + +But my eyes were soon diverted from contemplating these objects by a red +light streaming over the northern sky, which attracted my notice, as I +sat on the brow of a sloping hill, looking down a steep hollow vale, +surrounded by the forests, above which rose majestically the varied peaks +and promontories of the mountains. + +The upland lawns, which hang at immense heights above the vale, next +caught my attention. I was gazing alternately at them and the valley, +when a long succession of light misty clouds, of strange fantastic +shapes, issuing from a narrow gully between the rocks, passed on, like a +solemn procession, over the hollow dale, midway between the stream that +watered it below and the summits of the cliffs on high. + +The tranquillity of the region the verdure, of the lawn, environed by +girdles of flourishing wood, and the lowing of the distant herds, filled +me with the most pleasing sensations. But when I lifted up my eyes to +the towering cliffs, and beheld the northern sky streaming with ruddy +light, and the long succession of misty forms hovering over the space +beneath, they became sublime and awful. The dews which began to descend, +and the vapours which were rising from every dell, reminded me of the +lateness of the hour; and it was with great reluctance that I turned from +the scene which had so long engaged my contemplation, and traversed +slowly and silently the solitary meadows, over which I had hurried with +such eagerness an hour ago. + +Hill appeared after hill, and hillock succeeded hillock, which I had +passed unnoticed before. Sometimes I imagined myself following a +different path from that which had brought me to the edge of the deep +valley; another moment, descending into the hollows between the hillocks +that concealed the distant prospects from my sight, I fancied I had +entirely mistaken my route, and expected every moment to be lost amongst +the rude brakes and tangled thickets that skirted the eminences around. + +As the darkness increased, my situation became still more and more +forlorn. I had almost abandoned the idea of reaching the convent; and +whenever I gained any swelling ground, looked above, below, and on every +side of me, in hopes of discovering some glimmering lamp which might +indicate a hermitage, whose charitable possessor, I flattered myself, +would direct me to the monastery. + +At length, after a tedious wandering along the hills, I found myself, +unexpectedly, under the convent walls; and, as I was looking for the +gate, the attendant lay brothers came out with lights, in order to search +for me. Scarcely had I joined them when the Coadjutor and the Secretary +came forward, with the kindest anxiety expressed their uneasiness at my +long absence, and conducted me to my apartment, where Mr. — was waiting, +with no small degree of impatience; but I found not a word had been +mentioned of my adventure with the hermit; so that, I believe, he +strictly kept his vow till the day when the Carthusians are allowed to +speak, and which happened after my departure. + +We had hardly supped before the gates of the convent were shut, a +circumstance which disconcerted me not a little, as the full moon gleamed +through the casements, and the stars, sparkling above the forests of +pines, invited me to leave my apartment again, and to give myself up +entirely to the spectacle they offered. + +The Coadjutor, perceiving that I was often looking earnestly through the +windows, guessed my wishes, and calling a lay brother, ordered him to +open the gates, and wait at them till my return. It was not long before +I took advantage of this permission, and escaping from the courts and +cloisters of the monastery, all hushed in death-like stillness, ascended +a green knoll, which several ancient pines strongly marked with their +shadows: there, leaning against one of their trunks, I lifted up my eyes +to the awful barrier of surrounding mountains, discovered by the +trembling silver light of the moon shooting directly on the woods which +fringed their acclivities. + +The lawns, the vast woods, the steep descents, the precipices, the +torrents, lay all extended beneath, softened by a pale bluish haze, that +alleviated, in some measure, the stern prospect of the rocky promontories +above, wrapped in dark shadows. The sky was of the deepest azure; +innumerable stars were distinguished with unusual clearness from this +elevation, many of which twinkled behind the fir-trees edging the +promontories. White, grey, and darkish clouds came marching towards the +moon, that shone full against a range of cliffs, which lift themselves +far above the others. The hoarse murmur of the torrent, throwing itself +from the distant wildernesses into the gloomy vales, was mingled with the +blast that blew from the mountains. It increased. The forests began to +wave, black clouds rose from the north, and, as they fleeted along, +approached the moon, whose light they shortly extinguished. A moment of +darkness succeeded; the gust was chill and melancholy; it swept along the +desert, and then subsiding, the vapours began to pass away, and the moon +returned the grandeur of the scene was renewed, and its imposing +solemnity was increased by her presence. Inspiration was in every wind. + +I followed some impulse which drove me to the summit of the mountains +before me; and there, casting a look on the whole extent of wild woods +and romantic precipices, thought of the days of St. Bruno. I eagerly +contemplated every rock that formerly might have met his eyes; drank of +the spring which tradition says he was wont to drink of; and ran to every +pine whose withered appearance bespoke a remote antiquity, and beneath +which, perhaps, the saint had reposed himself, when worn with vigils, or +possessed with the sacred spirit of his institutions. + +It was midnight: the convent bell tolled; for the most solemn hour of +prayer was arrived. I cannot, nor would I, attempt to unfold to you, in +prose, half the strange things of which I thought, and which I seemed to +see, during this wild excursion. However, I owe to it the poetical +humour in which I composed the following lines, written immediately on my +return, in the album of the fathers, during the stillest watch of the +night: + + ODE. + + To orisons, the midnight bell + Had toll’d each silent inmate from his cell; + The hour was come to muse or pray, + Or work mysterious rites that shun the day: + My steps some whis’pring influence led, + Up to yon pine-clad mountain’s gloomy head: + Hollow and deep the gust did blow, + And torrents dash’d into the vales below. + At length the toilsome height attain’d, + Quick fled the moon, and sudden stillness reign’d. + As fearful turn’d my searching eye, + Glanc’d near a shadowy form, and fleeted by; + Anon, before me full it stood: + A saintly figure, pale, in pensive mood. + Damp horror thrill’d me till he spoke, + And accents faint the charm bound silence broke: + “Long, trav’ller! ere this region near, + Say, did not whisp’rings strange arrest thine ear? + My summons ’twas to bid thee come, + Where sole the friend of Nature loves to roam. + Ages long past, this drear abode + To solitude I sanctified, and God: + ’Twas here, by love of Wisdom brought, + Her truest lore, Self-knowledge, first I sought; + Devoted here my worldly wealth, + To win my chosen sons immortal health. + Midst these dun woods, and mountains steep, + Midst the wild horrors of yon desert deep, + Midst yawning caverns, wat’ry dells, + Midst long, sequestered aisles, and peaceful cells, + No passions fell distract the mind, + To Nature, Silence, and Herself consign’d. + In these still mansions who shall bide, + ’Tis mine, with Heaven’s appointment, to decide; + But, hither, I invite not all: + Some want the will to come, and more the call; + But all, mark well my parting voice! + Led, or by chance, necessity, or choice + (Ah! with our Genius dread to sport), + Sage lessons here may learn of high import. + Know! Silence is the nurse of Truth; + Know! Temperance long retards the flight of Youth + Learn here, how penitence and pray’r + Man’s fallen race for happier worlds prepare; + Learn mild demeanour, void of art, + And bear, amidst the world, the hermit’s heart; + Fix, trav’ller! deep this heaven-taught lore: + Know Bruno brings it, and returns no more.” + (Half sighed, half smiled his long farewell), + He turn’d, and vanish’d in the bright’ning dell. + +My imagination was too much disturbed, and my spirits far too active, to +allow me any rest for some time, and I had not long been quieted by +sleep, when I was suddenly awakened by a furious blast, that drove open +my casement, and let in the roar of the tempest, for the night was +troubled. In the intervals of the storm, in those moments when the winds +seemed to pause, the faint sounds of the choir stole upon my ear; but +were swallowed up the next instant by the redoubled fury of the gust, +which was still increased by the roar of the waters. + +I started from my bed, closed the casement, and composed myself as well +as I was able; but no sooner had the sunbeams entered my window, than I +arose, and gladly leaving my cell, hastened to the same knoll where I had +stood the night before. The storm was dissipated, and the pure morning +air delightfully refreshing; every tree, every shrub, glistened with dew. +A gentle wind breathed upon the woods, and waved the fir-trees on the +cliffs, which, free from clouds, rose distinctly into the clear blue sky. +I strayed from the knoll into the valley between the steeps of wood and +the turrets of the convent, and passed the different buildings, destined +for the manufacture of the articles necessary to the fathers; for nothing +is worn or used within this inclosure which comes from the profane world. + +Traversing the meadows and a succession of little dells, where I was so +lately bewildered, I came to a bridge thrown over the torrent, which I +crossed; and here followed a slight path that brought me to an eminence, +covered with a hanging wood of beach-trees feathered to the ground, from +whence I looked down the narrow pass towards Grenoble. Perceiving a +smoke to arise from the groves which nodded over the eminence, I climbed +up a rocky steep, and, after struggling through a thicket of shrubs, +entered a smooth, sloping lawn, framed in by woody precipices; at one +extremity of which I discovered the cottage, whose smoke had directed me +to this sequestered spot; and, at the other, a numerous group of cattle, +lying under the shade of some beech-trees, whilst several friars, with +long beards and russet garments, were employed in milking them. + +The luxuriant foliage of the woods, clinging round the steeps that +skirted the lawn; its gay, sunny exposition; the groups of sleek, dappled +cows, and the odd employment of the friars, so little consonant with +their venerable beards, formed a picturesque and certainly very singular +spectacle. I, who had been accustomed to behold “milk-maids singing +blithe,” and tripping lightly along with their pails, was not a little +surprised at the silent gravity with which these figures shifted their +trivets from cow to cow; and it was curious to see with what adroitness +they performed their functions, managing their long beards with a +facility and cleanliness equally admirable. + +I watched all their movements for some time, concealed by the trees, +before I made myself visible; but no sooner did I appear on the lawn, +than one of the friars quitted his trivet, very methodically set down his +pail, and coming towards me with an open, smiling countenance, desired me +to refresh myself with some bread and milk. A second, observing what was +going forward, was resolved not to be exceeded in an hospitable act, and, +quitting his pail too, hastened into the woods whence he returned in a +few minutes with some strawberries, very neatly enveloped in fresh +leaves. These hospitable, milking fathers, next invited me to the +cottage, whither I declined going, as I preferred the shade of the +beeches; so, throwing myself on the dry aromatic herbage, I enjoyed the +pastoral character of the scene with all possible glee. + +Not a cloud darkened the heavens; every object smiled; innumerable gaudy +flies glanced in the sunbeams that played in a clear spring by the +cottage; I saw with pleasure the sultry glow of the distant cliffs and +forests, whilst indolently reclined in the shade, listening to the summer +hum; one hour passed after another neglected away, during my repose in +this most delightful of valleys. The cattle were all slunk into the +recesses of the wood, and were drinking at the streams which flow along +their shades, before I could prevail on myself to quit the turf and the +beech trees. Never shall I cease regretting the peaceful moments I spent +in Valombré, as never perhaps, were I even to return to it, may so many +circumstances unite to render it pleasing. + +When I returned unwillingly to the convent, the only topic on which I +could converse was the charms of Valombré; but notwithstanding the +indifference with which I now regarded the prospects that surrounded the +monastery, I could not disdain an offer made by one of the friars, of +conducting me to the summit of the highest peak in the desert. + +Pretty late in the afternoon I set out with my guide, and, following his +steps through many forests of pine, and wild apertures among them, +strewed with fragments, arrived at a chapel, built on a mossy rock, and +dedicated to St. Bruno. + +Having once more drunk of the spring that issues from the rock on which +this edifice is raised, I moved forward, keeping my eyes fixed on a lofty +green mountain, whence rises a vast cliff, spiring up to a surprising +elevation; and which (owing to the sun’s reflection on a transparent mist +hovering around it) was tinged with a pale visionary light. This object +was the goal to which I aspired; and redoubling my activity, I made the +best of my way over rude ledges of rocks, and crumbled fragments of the +mountain interspersed with firs, till I came to the green steeps I had +surveyed at a distance. + +These I ascended with some difficulty, and, leaving a few scattered +beech-trees behind, in full leaf, shortly bid adieu to summer, and +entered the regions of spring; for, as I approached that part of the +mountain next the summit, the trees, which I found there rooted in the +crevices, were but just beginning to unfold their leaves, and every spot +of the greensward was covered with cowslips and violets. + +After taking a few moments’ repose, my guide prepared to clamber amongst +the rocks, and I followed him with as much alertness as I was able, till +laying hold of the trunk of a withered pine, we sprang upon a small level +space, where I seated myself, and beheld far beneath me the vast desert +and dreary solitudes, amongst which appeared, thinly scattered, the green +meadows and hanging lawns. The eye next overlooking the barrier of +mountains, ranged through immense tracts of distant countries; the plains +where Lyons is situated; the woodlands and lakes of Savoy; amongst which +that of Bourget was near enough to discover its beauties, all glowing +with the warm haze of the setting sun. + +My situation was too dizzy to allow a long survey; so turning my eyes +from the terrific precipice, I gladly beheld an opening in the rocks, +through which we passed into a little irregular glen of the smoothest +greensward, closed in on one side by the great peak, and on the others by +a ridge of sharp pinnacles, which crown the range of white cliffs I had +so much admired the night before, when brightened by the moon. + +The singular situation of this romantic spot invited me to remain in it +till the sun was about to sink on the horizon: during which time I +visited every little cave delved in the ridges of rock, and gathered +large sprigs of the mezereon and rhododendron in full bloom, which, with +a surprising variety of other plants, carpeted this lovely glen. A +luxuriant vegetation, + + “That on the green turf suck’d the honey’d showers, + And purpled all the ground with vernal flow’rs.” + +My guide, perceiving I was ready to mount still higher, told me it would +be in vain, as the beds of snow that lie eternally in some fissures of +the mountain, must necessarily impede my progress; but, finding I was +very unwilling to abandon the enterprise, he showed me a few notches in +the peak, by which we might ascend, though not without danger. This +prospect rather abated my courage, and the wind rising, drove several +thick clouds round the bottom of the peak, which increasing every minute, +shortly screened the green mountain and all the forest from our sight. A +sea of vapours soon undulated beneath my feet, and lightning began to +flash from a dark angry cloud, that hung over the valleys, and deluged +them with storms, whilst I was securely standing under the clear expanse +of ether. + +But the hour did not admit of my remaining long in this proud station; so +descending, I was soon obliged to pass through the vapours, and, +carefully following my guide (for a false step might have caused my +destruction), wound amongst the declivities, till we left the peak +behind, and just as we reached the green mountain, which was moistened +with the late storm, the clouds fleeted and the evening recovered its +serenity. + +Leaving the chapel of St. Bruno on the right, we entered the woods, and +soon emerged from them into a large pasture, under the grand amphitheatre +of mountains, having a gentle ascent before us, beyond which appeared the +neat blue roofs and glittering spires of the convent, where we arrived as +the moon was beginning to assume her empire. + +I need not say I rested well after the interesting fatigues of the day. +The next morning, early, I quitted my kind hosts with great reluctance. +The Coadjutor and two other fathers accompanied me to the outward gate, +and there within the solemn circle of the desert bestowed on me their +benediction. + +It seemed indeed to come from their hearts, nor would they leave me till +I was a hundred paces from the convent; and then, laying their hands on +their breasts, declared that if ever I was disgusted with the world, here +was an asylum. + +I was in a melancholy mood when I traced back all the windings of my +road, and when I found myself beyond the last gate, in the midst of the +wide world again, it increased. + +We returned to Les Echelles; from thence to Chamberry, and, instead of +going through Aix, passed by Amecy; but nothing in all the route engaged +my attention, nor had I any pleasing sensations till I beheld the glassy +lake of Geneva, and its lovely environs. + +I rejoiced then because I knew of a retirement on its banks where I could +sit and think of Valombré. + + + + +FOOTNOTES. + + +{110} Hills in the neighbourhood of Quang-Tong. + +{127} The Peries, inhabitants of Ginnistan, live upon perfumes, etc., +etc. See Richardson’s Dissertations. + +{133} Thisbe, a favourite greyhound torn to pieces by a mad dog. + +{140} See the description of the Grande Chartreuse. + +{156} The conduct of the emperor, since the death of his mother, seems +to be accomplishing this prediction apace. + +{170a} It is reasonably conjectured that the sea formerly washed the +walls of Padua. + +{170b} T. Livius, L. i., c. i. + +{170c} Lib. v., c. iv., p. 5. + +{171} Called Roscani in Venetian, and reduced to ashes for the glass +manufactory at Murano. + +{182} A nephew of Bertoni, and worthy of his uncle. + +{214} Mentioned by Dante in his “Purgatorio.” + +{240} Mem. pour la Vie de Petrarque, vol. i., p. 439. + +{284} Angela are frequently represented, in legendary tales, as riding +on the beams of the moon. + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DREAMS, WAKING THOUGHTS, AND +INCIDENTS*** + + +******* This file should be named 7258-0.txt or 7258-0.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/7/2/5/7258 + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. 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T. Bettany + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most +other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + + + + +Title: Dreams, Waking Thoughts, and Incidents + + +Author: William Beckford + +Editor: G. T. Bettany + +Release Date: May 6, 2015 [eBook #7258] +[This file was first posted on April 2, 2003] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DREAMS, WAKING THOUGHTS, AND +INCIDENTS*** +</pre> +<p>Transcribed from the 1891 Ward, Lock and Co. edition by David +Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/fpb.jpg"> +<img alt= +"William Beckford. From the original picture by Sir Joshua +Reynolds" +title= +"William Beckford. From the original picture by Sir Joshua +Reynolds" + src="images/fps.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h1>DREAMS,<br /> +WAKING THOUGHTS,<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AND</span><br /> +INCIDENTS;<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">IN A</span><br /> +SERIES OF LETTERS<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">FROM</span><br /> +VARIOUS PARTS OF EUROPE.</h1> +<h2>LETTER I.</h2> +<p><i>June</i> 19<i>th</i>, 1780.—Shall I tell you my +dreams?—To give an account of my time is doing, I assure +you, but little better. Never did there exist a more ideal +being. A frequent mist hovers before my eyes, and, through +its medium, I see objects so faint and hazy, that both their +colours and forms are apt to delude me. This is a rare +confession, say the wise, for a traveller to make: pretty +accounts will such a one give of outlandish countries: his +correspondents must reap great benefit, no doubt, from such +purblind observations. But stop, my good friends; patience +a moment!—I really have not the vanity of pretending to +make a single remark, during the whole of my journey: if — +be contented with my visionary way of gazing, I am perfectly +pleased; and shall write away as freely as Mr. A., Mr. B., Mr. +C., and a million others whose letters are the admiration of the +politest circles.</p> +<p>All through Kent did I doze as usual; now and then I opened my +eyes to take in an idea or two of the green, woody country +through which I was passing; then closed them again; transported +myself back to my native hills; thought I led a choir of those I +loved best through their shades; and was happy in the arms of +illusion. The sun set before I recovered my senses enough +to discover plainly the variegated slopes near Canterbury, waving +with slender birch-trees, and gilt with a profusion of +broom. I thought myself still in my beloved solitude, but +missed the companions of my slumbers. Where are +they?—Behind yon blue hills, perhaps, or t’other side +of that thick forest. My fancy was travelling after these +deserters, till we reached the town; vile enough o’ +conscience, and fit only to be passed in one’s sleep. +The moment after I got out of the carriage, brought me to the +cathedral; an old haunt of mine. I had always venerated its +lofty pillars, dim aisles, and mysterious arches. Last +night they were more solemn than ever, and echoed no other sound +than my steps. I strayed about the choir and chapels, till +they grew so dark and dismal, that I was half inclined to be +frightened; looked over my shoulder; thought of spectres that +have an awkward trick of syllabling men’s names in dreary +places; and fancied a sepulchral voice exclaiming: “Worship +my toe at Ghent; my ribs at Florence; my skull at Bologna, +Sienna, and Rome. Beware how you neglect this order; for my +bones, as well as my spirit, have the miraculous property of +being here, there, and everywhere.” These +injunctions, you may suppose, were received in a becoming manner, +and noted all down in my pocket-book by inspiration (for I could +not see), and hurrying into the open air, I was whirled away in +the dark to Margate. Don’t ask what were my dreams +thither:—nothing but horrors, deep-vaulted tombs, and pale, +though lovely figures, extended upon them; shrill blasts that +sung in my ears, and filled me with sadness, and the recollection +of happy hours, fleeting away, perhaps for ever! I was not +sorry, when the bustle of our coming-in dispelled these +phantoms. The change, however, in point of scenery was not +calculated to dissipate my gloom; for the first object in this +world that presented itself, was a vast expanse of sea, just +visible by the gleamings of the moon, bathed in watery clouds; a +chill air ruffled the waves. I went to shiver a few +melancholy moments on the shore. How often did I try to +wish away the reality of my separation from those I love, and +attempt to persuade myself it was but a dream!</p> +<p>This morning I found myself more cheerfully disposed, by the +queer Dutch faces with short pipes and ginger-bread complexions +that came smirking and scraping to get us on board their +respective vessels; but, as I had a ship engaged for me before, +their invitations were all in vain. The wind blows fair; +and, should it continue of the same mind a few hours longer, we +shall have no cause to complain of our passage. +Adieu! Think of me sometimes. If you write +immediately, I shall receive your letter at the Hague.</p> +<p>It is a bright sunny evening: the sea reflects a thousand +glowing colours, and, in a minute or two, I shall be gliding on +its surface.</p> +<h2>LETTER II.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Ostend</span>, +<i>June</i> 21<i>st</i>.</p> +<p>T’other minute I was in Greece, gathering the bloom of +Hymettus, but now I am landed in Flanders, smoked with tobacco, +and half poisoned with garlic. Were I to remain ten days at +Ostend, I should scarcely have one delightful vision; ’tis +so unclassic a place—nothing but preposterous Flemish roofs +disgust your eyes when you cast them upwards; swaggering Dutchmen +and mongrel barbers are the principal objects they meet with +below. I should esteem myself in luck, were the nuisances +of this seaport confined only to two senses; but, alas! the +apartment above my head proves a squalling brattery, and the +sounds which proceed from it are so loud and frequent, that a +person might think himself in limbo, without any +extravagance.</p> +<p>Am I not an object of pity, when I tell you that I was +tormented yesterday by a similar cause? But I know not how +it is; your violent complainers are the least apt to excite +compassion. I believe, notwithstanding, if another rising +generation should lodge above me at the next inn, I shall grow as +scurrilous as Dr. Smollett, and be dignified with the appellation +of the Younger Smelfungus. Well, let those make out my +diploma that will, I am determined to vent my spleen, and like +Lucifer, unable to enjoy comfort myself, tease others with the +details of my vexatious. You must know, then, since I am +resolved to grumble, that, tired with my passage, I went to the +Capuchin church, a large solemn building, in search of silence +and solitude; but here again was I disappointed. +Half-a-dozen squeaking fiddles fugued and flourished away in the +galleries, and as many paralytic monks gabbled before the altars, +while a whole posse of devotees, in long white hoods and +flannels, were sweltering on either side.</p> +<p>Such piety, in warm weather, was no very fragrant +circumstance; so I sought the open air again as fast as I was +able. The serenity of the evening, joined to the desire I +had of casting another glance over the ocean, tempted me to the +ramparts. There, at least, thought I to myself, I may range +undisturbed, and talk with my old friends the breezes, and +address my discourse to the waves, and be as romantic and +whimsical as I please; but it happened that I had scarcely begun +my apostrophe, before out flaunted a whole rank of officers, with +ladies and abbés and puppy dogs, singing, and flirting, +and making such a hubbub, that I had not one peaceful moment to +observe the bright tints of the western horizon, or enjoy the +series of antique ideas with which a calm sunset never fails to +inspire me.</p> +<p>Finding, therefore, no quiet abroad, I returned to my inn, and +should have gone immediately to bed, in hopes of relapsing into +the bosom of dreams and delusions; but the limbo I mentioned +before grew so very outrageous, that I was obliged to postpone my +rest till sugar-plums and nursery eloquence had hushed it to +repose. At length peace was restored, and about eleven +o’clock I fell into a slumber, during which the most lovely +Sicilian prospects filled the eye of my fancy. I +anticipated the classic scenes of that famous island, and forgot +every sorrow in the meadows of Enna.</p> +<p>Next morning, awakened by the sunbeams, I arose quite +refreshed by the agreeable impressions of my dream, and filled +with presages of future happiness in the climes which had +inspired them. No other idea but such as Trinacria and +Naples suggested, haunted me whilst travelling to Ghent. I +neither heard the vile Flemish dialect which was talking around +me, nor noticed formal avenues and marshy country which we +passed. When we stopped to change horses, I closed my eyes +upon the whole scene, and was transported immediately to some +Grecian solitude, where Theocritus and his shepherds were filling +the air with melody. To one so far gone in poetic +antiquity, Ghent is not the most likely place to recall his +attention; and I know nothing more about it, than that it is a +large, ill-paved, dismal-looking city, with a decent proportion +of convents and chapels, stuffed with monuments, brazen gates, +and glittering marbles. In the great church were two or +three pictures by Rubens, mechanically excellent, but these +realities were not designed in so graceful a manner as to divert +my attention from the mere descriptions Pausanias gives us of the +works of Grecian artists, and I would at any time fall asleep in +a Flemish cathedral, for a vision of the temple of Olympian +Jupiter. But I think I hear, at this moment, some grave and +respectable personage chiding me for such levities, and saying, +“Really, Sir, you had better stay at home, and dream in +your great chair, than give yourself the trouble of going post +through Europe, in search of inspiring places to fall +asleep. If Flanders and Holland are to be dreamed over at +this rate, you had better take ship at once, and doze all the way +to Italy.” Upon my word, I should not have much +objection to that scheme; and, if some cabalist would but +transport me in an instant to the summit of Ætna, any body +might slop through the Low Countries that pleased.</p> +<p>Being, however, so far advanced, there was no retracting; and +as it is now three or four years since I have almost abandoned +the hopes of discovering a necromancer, I resolved to journey +along with Quiet and Content for my companions. These two +comfortable deities have, I believe, taken Flanders under their +especial protection; every step one advances discovering some new +proof of their influence. The neatness of the houses, and +the universal cleanliness of the villages, show plainly that +their inhabitants live in ease and good humour. All is +still and peaceful in these fertile lowlands: the eye meets +nothing but round, unmeaning faces at every door, and harmless +stupidity smiling at every window. The beasts, as placid as +their masters, graze on without any disturbance; and I scarcely +recollect to have heard one grunting swine or snarling mastiff +during my whole progress. Before every village is a wealthy +dunghill, not at all offensive, because but seldom disturbed; and +there they bask in the sun, and wallow at their ease, till the +hour of death and bacon arrives, when capacious paunches await +them. If I may judge from the healthy looks and reposed +complexions of the Flemings, they have every reason to expect a +peaceful tomb.</p> +<p>But it is high time to leave our swinish moralities behind us, +and to jog on towards Antwerp. More rich pastures, more +ample fields of grain, more flourishing willows!—a +boundless plain before this city, dotted with cows and flowers, +from whence its spires and quaint roofs are seen to +advantage. The pale colours of the sky, and a few gleams of +watery sunshine, gave a true Flemish cast to the scenery, and +everything appeared so consistent, that I had not a shadow of +pretence to think myself asleep.</p> +<p>After crossing a broad, noble river, edged on one side by beds +of osiers beautifully green, and on the other by gates and +turrets preposterously ugly, we came through several streets of +lofty houses to our inn. Its situation in the “Place +de Mer,” a vast open space surrounded by buildings above +buildings, and roof above roof, has something striking and +singular. A tall gilt crucifix of bronze, sculptured by +some famous artist, adds to its splendour; and the tops of some +tufted trees, seen above a line of magnificent hotels, have no +bad effect in the perspective.</p> +<p>It was almost dusk when we arrived; and as I am very partial +to new objects discovered by this dubious visionary light, I went +immediately a-rambling. Not a sound disturbed my +meditations; there were no groups of squabbling children or +talkative old women. The whole town seemed retired into +their inmost chambers; and I kept winding and turning about, from +street to street, and from alley to alley, without meeting a +single inhabitant. Now and then, indeed, one or two women +in long cloaks and mantles glided about at a distance; but their +dress was so shroud-like, and their whole appearance so ghostly, +that I was more than half afraid to accost them. As the +night approached, the ranges of buildings grew more and more dim, +and the silence which reigned amongst them more awful. The +canals, which in some places intersect the streets, were likewise +in perfect solitude, and there was just light sufficient for me +to observe on the still waters the reflection of the structures +above them. Except two or three tapers glimmering through +the casements, no one circumstance indicated human +existence. I might, without being thought very romantic, +have imagined myself in the city of petrified people, which +Arabian fabulists are so fond of describing. Were any one +to ask my advice upon the subject of retirement, I should tell +him,—By all means repair to Antwerp. No village +amongst the Alps, or hermitage upon Mount Lebanon, is less +disturbed: you may pass your days in this great city without +being the least conscious of its sixty thousand inhabitants, +unless you visit the churches. There, indeed, are to be +heard a few devout whispers, and sometimes, to be sure, the bells +make a little chiming; but walk about, as I do, in the twilights +of midsummer, and be assured your ears will be free from all +molestation.</p> +<p>You can have no idea how many strange, amusing fancies played +around me whilst I wandered along; nor how delighted I was with +the novelty of my situation. But a few days ago, thought I +within myself, I was in the midst of all the tumult and uproar of +London: now, as if by some magic influence, I am transported to a +city equally remarkable for streets and edifices, but whose +inhabitants seem cast into a profound repose. What a pity +that we cannot borrow some small share of this soporific +disposition! It would temper that restless spirit which +throws us sometimes into such dreadful convulsions. +However, let us not be too precipitate in desiring so dead a +calm; the time may arrive when, like Antwerp, we may sink into +the arms of forgetfulness; when a fine verdure may carpet our +Exchange, and passengers traverse the Strand, without any danger +of being smothered in crowds, or lost in the confusion of +carriages.</p> +<p>Reflecting, in this manner, upon the silence of the place, +contrasted with the important bustle which formerly rendered it +so famous, I insensibly drew near to the cathedral, and found +myself, before I was aware, under its stupendous tower. It +is difficult to conceive an object more solemn or imposing than +this edifice at the hour I first beheld it. Dark shades +hindered my examining the lower galleries or windows; their +elaborate carved work was invisible; nothing but huge masses of +building met my sight, and the tower, shooting up four hundred +and sixty-six feet into the air, received an additional +importance from the gloom which prevailed below. The sky +being perfectly clear, several stars twinkled through the mosaic +of the spire, and added not a little to its enchanted +effect. I longed to ascend it that instant, to stretch +myself out upon its very summit, and calculate from so sublime an +elevation the influence of the planets.</p> +<p>Whilst I was indulging my astrological reveries, a ponderous +bell struck ten, and such a peal of chimes succeeded, as shook +the whole edifice, notwithstanding its bulk, and drove me away in +a hurry. No mob obstructed my passage, and I ran through a +succession of streets, free and unmolested, as if I had been +skimming along over the downs of Wiltshire. My servants +conversing before the hotel were the only sounds which the great +“Place de Mer” echoed.</p> +<p>This universal stillness was the more pleasing, when I looked +back upon those scenes of horror and outcry which filled London +but a week or two ago, when danger was not confined to night +only, and the environs of the capital, but haunted our streets at +midday. Here, I could wander over an entire city; stray by +the port, and venture through the most obscure alleys, without a +single apprehension; without beholding a sky red and portentous +with the light of fires, or hearing the confused and terrifying +murmurs of shouts and groans, mingled with the reports of +artillery. I can assure you, I think myself very fortunate +to have escaped the possibility of another such week of +desolation, and to be peaceably roosted at Antwerp. Were I +not still fatigued with my heavy progress through sands and +quagmires, I should descant a little longer upon the blessings of +so quiet a metropolis, but it is growing late, and I must retire +to enjoy it.</p> +<h2>LETTER III.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Antwerp</span>, +<i>June</i> 23<i>rd</i>.</p> +<p>My windows look full upon the Place de Mer, and the sun, +beaming through their white curtains, awoke me from a dream of +Arabian happiness. Imagination had procured herself a tent +on the mountains of Sanaa, covered with coffee-trees in +bloom. She was presenting me the essence of their flowers, +and was just telling me that you possessed a pavilion on a +neighbouring hill, when the sunshine dispelled the vision; and +opening my eyes, I found myself pent in by Flemish spires and +buildings: no hills, no verdure, no aromatic breezes, no hope of +being in your vicinity: all were vanished with the shadows of +fancy, and I was left alone to deplore your absence. But I +think it rather selfish to wish you here, for what pleasure could +pacing from one dull church to another, afford a person of your +turn? I don’t believe you would catch a taste for +blubbering Magdalens and coarse Madonnas, by lolling in +Rubens’ chair; nor do I believe a view of the Ostades and +Snyders, so liberally scattered in every collection, would +greatly improve your pencil.</p> +<p>After breakfast this morning I began my pilgrimage to all +those illustrious cabinets. First, I went to Monsieur Van +Lencren’s, who possesses a suite of apartments, lined, from +the base to the cornice, with the rarest productions of the +Flemish school. Heavens forbid I should enter into a detail +of their niceties! I might as well count the dew-drops upon +any of Van Huysem’s flower-pieces, or the pimples on their +possessor’s countenance; a very good sort of man, indeed; +but from whom I was not at all sorry to be delivered.</p> +<p>My joy was, however, of short duration, as a few minutes +brought me into the courtyard of the Chanoin Knyfe’s +habitation; a snug abode, well furnished with easy chairs and +orthodox couches. After viewing the rooms on the first +floor, we mounted a gentle staircase, and entered an +ante-chamber, which those who delight in the imitations of art +rather than of nature, in the likenesses of joint stools and the +portraits of tankards, would esteem most capitally adorned: but +it must be confessed, that, amongst these uninteresting +performances, are dispersed a few striking Berghems and agreeable +Polemburgs. In the gallery adjoining, two or three Rosa de +Tivolis merit observation; and a large Teniers, representing a +St. Anthony surrounded by a malicious fry of imps and leering +devilesses, is well calculated to display the whimsical +buffoonery of a Dutch imagination.</p> +<p>I was observing this strange medley, when the Canon made his +appearance; and a most prepossessing figure he has, according to +Flemish ideas. In my humble opinion his Reverence looked a +little muddled or so; and, to be sure, the description I +afterwards heard of his style of living, favours not a little my +surmises. This worthy dignitary, what with his private +fortune and the good things of the church, enjoys a revenue of +about five thousand pounds sterling, which he contrives to get +rid of in the joys of the table and the encouragement of the +pencil.</p> +<p>His servants, perhaps, assist not a little in the expenditure +of so comfortable an income; the Canon being upon a very social +footing with them all. At four o’clock in the +afternoon, a select party attend him in his coach to an alehouse +about a league from the city; where a table, well spread with +jugs of beer and handsome cheeses, waits their arrival. +After enjoying this rural fare, the same equipage conducts them +back again, by all accounts, much faster than they came; which +may well be conceived, as the coachman is one of the brightest +wits of the entertainment.</p> +<p>My compliments, alas! were not much relished, you may suppose, +by this jovial personage. I said a few favourable words of +Polemburg, and offered up a small tribute of praise to the memory +of Berghem; but, as I could not prevail upon Mynheer Knyfe to +expand, I made one of my best bows, and left him to the enjoyment +of his domestic felicity.</p> +<p>In my way home, I looked into another cabinet, the greatest +ornament of which was a most sublime thistle by Snyders, of the +heroic size, and so faithfully imitated that I dare say no ass +could see it unmoved. At length, it was lawful to return +home; and as I positively refused visiting any more cabinets in +the afternoon, I sent for a harpsichord of Rucker, and played +myself quite out of the Netherlands.</p> +<p>It was late before I finished my musical excursion, and I took +advantage of this dusky moment to revisit the cathedral. A +flight of starlings was fluttering about one of the pinnacles of +the tower; their faint chirpings were the only sounds that broke +the stillness of the air. Not a human form appeared at any +of the windows around; no footsteps were audible in the opening +before the grand entrance; and, during the half hour I spent in +walking to and fro beneath the spire, one solitary Franciscan was +the only creature that accosted me. From him I learnt that +a grand service was to be performed next day in honour of St. +John the Baptist, and the best music in Flanders would be called +forth on the occasion. As I had seen cabinets enough to +form some slight judgment of Flemish painting, I determined to +stay one day longer at Antwerp to hear a little how its +inhabitants were disposed to harmony.</p> +<p>Having taken this resolution, I formed an acquaintance with +Mynheer Vander Bosch, the first organist of the place, who very +kindly permitted me to sit next him in his gallery during the +celebration of high mass. The service ended, I strayed +about the aisles, and examined the innumerable chapels which +decorate them, whilst Mynheer Vander Bosch thundered and +lightened away upon his huge organ with fifty stops.</p> +<p>When the first flashes of execution were a little subsided, I +took an opportunity of surveying the celebrated “Descent +from the Cross,” which has ever been esteemed one of +Rubens’s chef d’œuvres, and for which they say +old Lewis Baboon offered no less a sum than forty thousand +florins. The principal figure has, doubtless, a very +meritorious paleness, and looks as dead as an artist could +desire; the rest of the group have been so liberally praised, +that there is no occasion to add another tittle of +commendation. A swinging St. Christopher, fording a brook +with a child on his shoulders, cannot fail of attracting your +attention. This colossal personage is painted on the +folding-doors which defend the capital performance just mentioned +from vulgar eyes; and here Rubens has selected a very proper +subject to display the gigantic coarseness of his pencil.</p> +<p>Had this powerful artist confined his strength to the +representation of agonizing thieves and sturdy Barabbases, nobody +would have been readier than your humble servant to offer incense +at his shrine, but when I find him lost in the flounces of the +Virgin’s drapery, or bewildered in the graces of St. +Catherine’s smile, pardon me if I withhold my +adoration. After I had most dutifully observed all the +Rubenses in the church, I walked half over Antwerp in search of +St. John’s relics, which were moving about in procession, +but an heretical wind having extinguished all their tapers, and +discomposed the canopy over the Bon Dieu, I cannot say much for +the grandeur of the spectacle. If my eyes were not greatly +regaled by the Saint’s magnificence, my ears were greatly +affected in the evening by the music which sang forth his +praises. The cathedral was crowded with devotees and +perfumed with incense. Several of its marble altars gleamed +with the reflection of lamps, and, altogether, the spectacle was +new and imposing. I knelt very piously in one of the aisles +while a symphony in the best style of Corelli, performed with +taste and feeling, transported me to Italian climates, and I was +quite vexed, when a cessation dissolved the charm, to think that +I had still so many tramontane regions to pass, before I could in +effect reach that classic country, where my spirit had so long +taken up its abode. Finding it was in vain to wish or +expect any preternatural interposition, and perceiving no +conscious angel, or Loretto-vehicle, waiting in some dark +consecrated corner to bear me away, I humbly returned to my hotel +in the Place de Mer, and soothed myself with some terrestrial +harmony; till, my eyes growing heavy, I fell fast asleep, and +entered the empire of dreams, according to custom, by its ivory +portal. What passed in those shadowy realms is too thin and +unsubstantial to be committed to paper. The very breath of +waking mortals would dissipate all the train, and drive them +eternally away; give me leave, therefore, to omit the relation of +my visionary travels, and have the patience to pursue a sketch of +my real ones from Antwerp to the Hague.</p> +<p><i>Monday</i>, <i>June</i> 26<i>th</i>, we were again upon the +pavé, rattling and jumbling along between clipped hedges +and blighted avenues. The plagues of Egypt have been +renewed, one might almost imagine, in this country, by the +appearance of the oak-trees: not a leaf have the insects +spared. After having had the displeasure of seeing no other +objects for several hours, but these blasted rows, the scene +changed to vast tracts of level country, buried in sand, and +smothered with heath; the particular character of which I had but +too good an opportunity of intimately knowing, as a tortoise +might have kept pace with us without being once out of +breath.</p> +<p>Towards evening, we entered the dominions of the United +Provinces, and had all their glory of canals, track-shuyts, and +windmills before us. The minute neatness of the villages, +their red roofs, and the lively green of the willows which shade +them, corresponded with the ideas I had formed of Chinese +prospects; a resemblance which was not diminished upon viewing on +every side the level scenery of enamelled meadows, with stripes +of clear water across them, and innumerable barges gliding busily +along. Nothing could be finer than the weather; it improved +each moment, as if propitious to my exotic fancies; and, at +sunset, not one single cloud obscured the horizon. Several +storks were parading by the water-side, amongst flags and osiers; +and, as far as the eye could reach, large herds of beautifully +spotted cattle were enjoying the plenty of their pastures. +I was perfectly in the environs of Canton, or Ning Po, till we +reached Meerdyke. You know fumigations are always the +current recipe in romance to break an enchantment; as soon, +therefore, as I left my carriage, and entered my inn, the clouds +of tobacco which filled every one of its apartments dispersed my +Chinese imaginations, and reduced me in an instant to +Holland.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p106b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Deleft Haven" +title= +"Deleft Haven" + src="images/p106s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Why should I enlarge upon my adventures at Meerdyke? To +tell you that its inhabitants are the most uncouth bipeds in the +universe would be nothing very new or entertaining; so let me at +once pass over the village, leave Rotterdam, and even Delft, that +great parent of pottery, and transport you with a wave of my pen +to the Hague.</p> +<p>As the evening was rather warm, I immediately walked out to +enjoy the shade of the long avenue which leads to +Scheveling. It was fresh and pleasant enough, but I +breathed none of those genuine woody perfumes, which exhale from +the depths of forests, and which allure my imagination at once to +the haunts of Pan and the good old Sylvanus. However, I was +far from displeased with my ramble; and, consoling myself with +the hopes of shortly reposing in the sylvan labyrinths of Nemi, I +proceeded to the village on the sea-coast, which terminates the +perspective. Almost every cottage door being open to catch +the air, I had an opportunity of looking into their neat +apartments. Tables, shelves, earthenware, all glisten with +cleanliness; the country people were drinking tea, after the +fatigues of the day, and talking over its bargains and +contrivances.</p> +<p>I left them, to walk on the beach, and was so charmed with the +vast azure expanse of ocean, which opened suddenly upon me, that +I remained there a full half hour. More than two hundred +vessels of different sizes were in sight, the last sunbeams +purpling their sails, and casting a path of innumerable +brilliants athwart the waves. What would I not have given +to follow this shining track! It might have conducted me +straight to those fortunate western climates, those happy isles +which you are so fond of painting, and I of dreaming about. +But, unluckily, this passage was the only one my neighbours the +Dutch were ignorant of. To be sure they have islands rich +in spices, and blessed with the sun’s particular attention, +but which their government, I am apt to imagine, renders by no +means fortunate.</p> +<p>Abandoning therefore all hopes at present of this adventurous +voyage, I returned towards the Hague, and, in my way home, looked +into a country-house of the late Count Bentinck, with parterres +and bosquets by no means resembling (one should conjecture) the +gardens of the Hesperides. But, considering that the whole +group of trees, terraces, and verdure were in a manner created +out of hills of sand, the place may claim some portion of +merit. The walks and alleys have all the stiffness and +formality our ancestors admired; but the intermediate spaces, +being dotted with clumps and sprinkled with flowers, are imagined +in Holland to be in the English style. An Englishman ought +certainly to behold it with partial eyes, since every possible +attempt has been made to twist it into the taste of his +country.</p> +<p>I need not say how liberally I bestowed my encomiums on Count +B.’s tasteful intentions; nor how happy I was, when I had +duly serpentized over his garden, to find myself once more in the +grand avenue. All the way home, I reflected upon the +economical disposition of the Dutch, who raise gardens from heaps +of sand, and cities out of the bosom of the waters. I had +still a further proof of this thrifty turn, since the first +object I met was an unwieldy fellow (not able, or unwilling, +perhaps, to afford horses) airing his carcass in a one-dog +chair. The poor animal puffed and panted,—Mynheer +smoked, and gaped around him with the most blessed +indifference.</p> +<h2>LETTER IV.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><i>June</i> 30<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>I dedicated the morning to the Prince of Orange’s +cabinet of paintings and curiosities both natural and +artificial. Amongst the pictures which amused me the most +is a St. Anthony, by Hell-fire Brughel, who has shown himself +right worthy of the title; for a more diabolical variety of imps +never entered the human imagination. Brughel has made his +saint take refuge in a ditch filled with harpies and creeping +things innumerable, whose malice, one should think, would have +lost Job himself the reputation of patience. Castles of +steel and fiery turrets glare on every side, from whence issue a +band of junior devils. These seem highly entertained with +pinking poor St. Anthony, and whispering, I warrant ye, filthy +tales in his ear. Nothing can be more rueful than the +patient’s countenance; more forlorn than his beard; more +pious than his eye, which forms a strong contrast to the pert +winks and insidious glances of his persecutors; some of whom; I +need not mention, are evidently of the female kind.</p> +<p>But really I am quite ashamed of having detained you in such +bad company so long; and, had I a moment to spare, you should be +introduced to a better set in this gallery, where some of the +most exquisite Berghems and Wouvermans I ever beheld would +delight you for hours. I do not think you would look much +at the Polemburgs; there are but two, and one of them is very far +from capital; in short I am in a great hurry; so pardon me, Carlo +Cignani! if I don’t do justice to your merit; and excuse +me, Potter! if I pass by your herds without leaving a tribute of +admiration.</p> +<p>Mynheer Van Something is as eager to precipitate my motions as +I was to get out of the damps and perplexities of Soorflect +yesterday evening; so mounting a very indifferent staircase, he +led me to a suite of garret-like apartments; which, considering +the meanness of their exterior, I was much surprised to find +stored with some of the most valuable productions of the +Indies. Gold cups enriched with gems, models of Chinese +palaces in ivory, glittering armour of Hindostan, and Japan +caskets, filled every corner of this awkward treasury. What +of all its baubles pleased me most was a large coffer of some +precious wood, containing enamelled flasks of oriental essences, +enough to perfume a zenana, and so fragrant that I thought the +Mogul himself a Dutchman, for lavishing them upon this inelegant +nation. If disagreeable fumes, as I mentioned before, +dissolve enchantments, such aromatic oils have doubtless the +power of raising them; for, whilst I scented their fragrance, +scarcely could anything have persuaded me that I was not in the +wardrobe of Hecuba,—</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">“Where +treasur’d odours breath’d a costly scent.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>I saw, or seemed to see, the arched apartments, the procession +of venerable matrons, the consecrated vestments: the very temple +began to rise upon my sight, when a Dutch porpoise approaching to +make me a low bow; his complaisance was full as notorious as +Satan’s, when, according to Catholic legends, he took leave +of Calvin or Dr. Faustus. No spell can resist a fumigation +of this nature; away fled palace, Hecuba, matrons, temple, +etc. I looked up, and lo! I was in a garret. As +poetry is but too often connected with this lofty situation, you +won’t wonder much at my flight. Being a little +recovered from it, I tottered down the staircase, entered the +cabinets of natural history, and was soon restored to my sober +senses. A grave hippopotamus contributed a great deal to +their reestablishment.</p> +<p>The butterflies, I must needs confess, were very near leading +me another dance: I thought of their native hills and beloved +flowers, of Haynang and Nan-Hoa; <a name="citation110"></a><a +href="#footnote110" class="citation">[110]</a> but the jargon +which was prating all around me prevented the excursion, and I +summoned a decent share of attention for that ample chamber which +has been appropriated to bottled snakes and pickled +fœtuses.</p> +<p>After having enjoyed the same spectacle in the British Museum, +no very new or singular objects can be selected in this. +One of the rarest articles it contains is the representation in +wax of a human head, most dexterously flayed indeed! +Rapturous encomiums have been bestowed by amateurs on this +performance. A German professor could hardly believe it +artificial; and, prompted by the love of truth, set his teeth in +this delicious morsel to be convinced of its reality. My +faith was less hazardously established; and I moved off, under +the conviction that art had never produced anything more horridly +natural.</p> +<p>It was one o’clock before I got through the mineral +kingdom; and another hour passed before I could quit with decorum +the regions of stuffed birds and marine productions. At +length my departure was allowable; and I went to dine at Sir +Joseph Yorke’s, with all nations and languages. The +Hague is the place in the world for a motley assembly, and, in +some humours, I think such the most agreeable.</p> +<p>After coffee I strayed to the great wood, which, considering +that it almost touches the town with its boughs, is wonderfully +forest-like. Not a branch being ever permitted to be +lopped, the oaks and beeches retain their natural luxuriance, and +form some of the most picturesque groups conceivable. In +some places their straight boles rise sixty feet without a bough; +in others, they are bent fantastically over the alleys, which +turn and wind about just as a painter would desire. I +followed them with eagerness and curiosity, sometimes deviating +from my path amongst tufts of fern and herbage.</p> +<p>In these cool retreats I could not believe myself near canals +and windmills; the Dutch formalities were all forgotten whilst +contemplating the broad masses of foliage above, and the wild +flowers and grasses below. Several hares and rabbits +scudded by me while I sat; and the birds were chirping their +evening song. Their preservation does credit to the police +of the country, which is so exact and well regulated as to suffer +no outrage within the precincts of this extensive wood, the depth +and thickness of which seem calculated to favour half the sins of +a capital.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p111b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Amsterdam from the Quay" +title= +"Amsterdam from the Quay" + src="images/p111s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Relying upon this comfortable security, I lingered unmolested +amongst the beeches till the ruddy gold of the setting sun ceased +to glow on their foliage; then taking the nearest path, I +suffered myself, though not without regret, to be conducted out +of this fresh sylvan scene to the dusty, pompous parterres of the +Greffier Fagel. Every flower that wealth can purchase +diffuses its perfume on one side; whilst every stench a canal can +exhale, poisons the air on the other. These sluggish +puddles defy all the power of the United Provinces, and retain +the freedom of stinking in spite of their endeavours: but perhaps +I am too bold in my assertion; for I have no authority to mention +any attempts to purify these noxious pools. Who knows but +their odour is congenial to a Dutch constitution? One +should be inclined to this supposition by the numerous +banqueting-rooms and pleasure-houses which hang directly above +their surface, and seem calculated on purpose to enjoy +them. If frogs were not excluded from the magistrature of +their country (and I cannot but think it a little hard that they +are), one should not wonder at this choice. Such +burgomasters might erect their pavilions in such +situations. But, after all, I am not greatly surprised at +the fishiness of their site, since very slight authority would +persuade me there was a period when Holland was all water, and +the ancestors of the present inhabitants fish. A certain +oysterishness of eye and flabbiness of complexion are almost +proofs sufficient of this aquatic descent: and pray tell me for +what purpose are such galligaskins as the Dutch burthen +themselves with contrived, but to tuck up a flouncing tail, and +thus cloak the deformity of their dolphin-like terminations?</p> +<p>Having done penance for some time in the damp alleys which +line the borders of these lazy waters, I was led through +corkscrew sand-walks to a vast flat, sparingly scattered over +with vegetation. To puzzle myself in such a labyrinth there +was no temptation, so taking advantage of the lateness of the +hour, and muttering a few complimentary promises of returning at +the first opportunity, I escaped the ennui of this endless +scrubbery, and got home, with the determination of being wiser +and less curious if ever my stars should bring me again to the +Hague. To-morrow I bid it adieu, and if the horses but +second my endeavours, shall be delivered in a few days from the +complicated plagues of the United Provinces.</p> +<h2>LETTER V.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Haerlem</span>, +<i>July</i> 1<i>st</i>.</p> +<p>The sky was clear and blue when we left the Hague, and we +travelled along a shady road for about an hour, then down sunk +the carriage into a sand-bed, and we were dragged along so slowly +that I fell into a profound repose. How long it lasted is +not material; but when I awoke, we were rumbling through +Leyden. There is no need to write a syllable in honour of +this illustrious city: its praises have already been sung and +said by fifty professors, who have declaimed in its university, +and smoked in its gardens. So let us get out of it as fast +as we can, and breathe the cool air of the wood near Haerlem, +where we arrived just as day declined. Hay was making in +the fields, and perfumed the country far and wide with its +reviving fragrance. I promised myself a pleasant walk in +the groves, took up Gesner, and began to have pretty pastoral +ideas; but when I approached the nymphs that were dispersed on +the meads, and saw faces that would have dishonoured a flounder, +and heard accents that would have confounded a hog, all my +dislike to the walking filth of the Low Countries returned. +I let fall the garlands I had wreathed for the shepherds; we +jumped into the carriage, and were driven off to the town. +Every avenue to it swarmed with people, whose bustle and +agitation seemed to announce that something extraordinary was +going forward. Upon inquiry I found it was the great fair +at Haerlem; and before we had advanced much farther, our carriage +was surrounded by idlers and gingerbread-eaters of all +denominations. Passing the gate, we came to a cluster of +little illuminated booths beneath a grove, glittering with toys +and looking-glasses. It was not without difficulty that we +reached our inn, and then the plague was to procure chambers; at +last we were accommodated, and the first moment I could call my +own has been dedicated to you.</p> +<p>You won’t be surprised at the nonsense I have written, +since I tell you the scene of the riot and uproar from whence it +bears date. At this very moment the confused murmur of +voices and music stops all regular proceedings: old women and +children tattling; apes, bears, and show-boxes under the windows; +French rattling, English swearing, outrageous Italians, frisking +minstrels; <i>tambours de basque</i> at every corner; myself +distracted; a confounded squabble of cooks and haranguing German +couriers just arrived, their masters following open-mouthed; +nothing to eat, the steam of ham and flesh-pots all the while +provoking their appetite; Mynheers very busy with the realities, +and smoking as deliberately as if in a solitary lusthuys over the +laziest canal in the Netherlands; squeaking chambermaids in the +galleries above, and prudish dames below, half inclined to +receive the golden solicitations of certain beauties for +admittance, but positively refusing them the moment some +creditable personage appears; eleven o’clock strikes; half +the lights in the fair are extinguished; scruples grow less and +less delicate; Mammon prevails, darkness and complaisance +succeed. Good-night; may you sleep better than I shall.</p> +<h2>LETTER VI.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Utrecht</span>, +<i>July</i> 2<i>nd</i>.</p> +<p>Well, thank Heaven, Amsterdam is behind us! How I got +thither signifies not one farthing; it was all along a canal, as +usual. The weather was hot enough to broil an inhabitant of +Bengal; and the odours, exhaling from every quarter, sufficiently +powerful to regale the nose of a Hottentot.</p> +<p>Under these agreeable circumstances we entered the great +city. The Stadt-huys being the only cool place it +contained, I repaired thither as fast as the heat permitted, and +walked in a lofty marble hall, magnificently covered, till the +dinner was ready at the inn. That despatched, we set off +for Utrecht. Both sides of the way are lined with the +country-houses and gardens of opulent citizens, as fine as gilt +statues and clipped hedges can make them. Their number is +quite astonishing: from Amsterdam to Utrecht, full thirty miles, +we beheld no other objects than endless avenues and stiff +parterres scrawled and flourished in patterns like the embroidery +of an old maid’s work-bag. Notwithstanding this +formal taste, I could not help admiring the neatness and +arrangement of every inclosure, enlivened by a profusion of +flowers, and decked with arbours, beneath which a vast number of +round unmeaning faces were solacing themselves after the heat of +the day. Each lusthuys we passed contained some comfortable +party dozing over their pipes, or angling in the muddy fish-ponds +below. Scarce an avenue but swarmed with female josses; +little squat pug-dogs waddling at their sides, the attributes, I +suppose, of these fair divinities.</p> +<p>But let us leave them to loiter thus amiably in their Elysian +groves, and arrive at Utrecht; which, as nothing very remarkable +claimed my attention, I hastily quitted to visit a Moravian +establishment at Siest, in its neighbourhood. The chapel, a +large house, late the habitation of Count Zinzendorf, and a range +of apartments filled with the holy fraternity, are totally +wrapped in dark groves, overgrown with weeds, amongst which some +damsels were straggling, under the immediate protection of their +pious brethren.</p> +<p>Traversing the woods, we found ourselves in a large court, +built round with brick edifices, the grass-plats in a deplorable +way, and one ragged goat, their only inhabitant, on a little +expiatory scheme, perhaps, for the failings of the +fraternity. I left this poor animal to ruminate in +solitude, and followed my guide into a series of shops furnished +with gew-gaws and trinkets, said to be manufactured by the female +part of the society. Much cannot be boasted of their +handiworks: I expressed a wish to see some of these industrious +fair ones; but, upon receiving no answer, found this was a +subject <i>of which there was no discourse</i>.</p> +<p>Consoling myself as well as I was able, I put myself under the +guidance of another slovenly disciple, who showed me the chapel, +and harangued very pathetically upon celestial love. In my +way thither, I caught a glimpse of some pretty sempstresses, +warbling melodious hymns as they sat needling and thimbling at +their windows above. I had a great inclination to have +approached this busy group, but the roll of the brother’s +eye corrected me.</p> +<p>Reflecting upon my unworthiness, I retired from the +consecrated buildings, and was driven back to Utrecht, not a +little amused with my expedition. If you are as well +disposed to be pleased as I was, I shall esteem myself very +lucky, and not repent sending you so incorrect a narrative. +I really have not time to look it over, and am growing so drowsy, +that you will, I hope, pardon all its errors, when you consider +that my pen writes in its sleep.</p> +<h2>LETTER VII.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Spa</span>, +<i>July</i> 6<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>From Utrecht to Bois le Duc nothing but sand and heath; no +inspiration, no whispering foliage, not even a grasshopper, to +put one in mind of Eclogues and Theocritus. “But why +did you not fall into one of your beloved slumbers, and dream of +poetic mountains? This was the very country to shut +one’s eyes upon without disparagement.” Why so +I did, but the postillions and boatmen obliged me to open them, +as soon as they were closed. Four times was I shoved, out +of my visions, into leaky boats, and towed across as many idle +rivers. I thought there was no end of these tiresome +transits; and, when I reached my journey’s end, was so +completely jaded that I almost believed Charon would be the next +aquatic I should have to deal with. The fair light of the +morning (Tuesday, July 4th) was scarcely sufficient to raise my +spirits, and I had left Bois le Duc a good way in arrears before +I was thoroughly convinced of my existence; when I looked through +the blinds of the carriage, and saw nothing but barren plains and +mournful willows, banks clad with rushes, and heifers so black +and dismal that Proserpine herself would have given them up to +Hecate. I was near believing myself in the neighbourhood of +a certain evil place, where I should be punished for all my +croakings. We travelled at this rate, I dare say, fifteen +miles, without seeing a single shed: at last, one or two +miserable cottages appeared, darkened by heath, and stuck in a +sand-pit; from whence issued a half-starved generation, that +pursued us a long while with their piteous wailings. The +heavy roads and ugly prospects, together with the petulant +clamours of my petitioners, made me quite uncharitable. I +was in a dark, remorseless mood, which lasted me till we reached +Brée, a shabby decayed town, encompassed by walls and +ruined turrets. Having nothing to do, I straggled about +them, till night shaded the dreary prospects, and gave me an +opportunity of imagining them, if I pleased, noble and +majestic. Several of these waning edifices were invested +with thick ivy: the evening was chill, and I crept under their +covert. Two or three brother owls were before me, but +politely gave up their pretensions to the spot, and, as soon as I +appeared, with a rueful whoop flitted away to some deeper +retirement. I had scarcely begun to mope in tranquillity, +before a rapid shower trickled amongst the clusters above me, and +forced me to abandon my haunt. Returning in the midst of it +to my inn, I hurried to bed, and was soon lulled asleep by the +storm. A dream bore me off to Persepolis; and led me +thro’ vast subterraneous treasures to a hall, where +Solomon, methought, was holding forth upon their vanity. I +was upon the very point of securing a part of this immense +wealth, and fancied myself writing down the sage prophet’s +advice how to make use of it, when a loud vociferation in the +street, and the bell of a neighbouring chapel, dispersed the +vision. Starting up, I threw open the windows, and found it +was eight o’clock (Wednesday, July 5th), and had hardly +rubbed my eyes, before beggars came limping from every +quarter. I knew their plaguy voices but too well; and that +the same hubbub had broken my slumbers, and driven me from wisdom +and riches to the regions of ignorance and poverty. The +halt, the lame, and the blind, being restored, by the miracle of +a few stivers, to their functions, we breakfasted in peace, and, +gaining the carriage, waded through sandy deserts to Maestricht: +our view, however, was considerably improved, for a league round +the town, and presented some hills and pleasant valleys, smiling +with crops of grain: here and there, green meadows, spread over +with hay, varied the prospect, which the chirping of birds (the +first I had heard for many a tedious day) amongst the barley, +rendered so cheerful, that I began, like them, my exultations, +and was equally thoughtless and serene. I need scarcely +tell you, that, leaving the coach, I pursued a deep furrow +between two extensive corn-fields, and reposed upon a bank of +flowers, the golden ears waving above my head, and entirely +bounding my prospect. Here I lay, in peace and sunshine, a +few happy moments; contemplating the blue sky, and fancying +myself restored to the valley at F., where I have passed so many +happy hours, shut out from the world, and concealed in the bosom +of harvests. It was then I first grew so fond of dreaming; +and no wonder, since I have frequently imagined that Ceres did +not disdain to inspire my slumbers; but, half concealed, half +visible, would tell me amusing stories of her reapers; and, +sometimes more seriously inclined, recite the affecting tale of +her misfortunes. At midday, when all was still, and a warm +haze seemed to repose on the face of the landscape, I have often +fancied this celestial voice bewailing Proserpine, in the most +pathetic accents. From these sacred moments I resolved to +offer sacrifice in the fields of Enna; to explore their fragrant +recesses, and experience whether the Divinity would not manifest +herself to me in her favourite domain. It was this vow, +which tempted me from my native valleys. Its execution, +therefore, being my principal aim, I deserted my solitary bank +and proceeded on my journey. Maestricht abounds in Gothic +churches, but contains no temple to Ceres. I was not sorry +to quit it, after spending an hour unavoidably within its +walls. Our road was conducted up a considerable eminence, +from the summit of which we discovered a range of woody steeps, +extending for leagues; beneath lay a winding valley, richly +variegated and lighted up by the Maese. The evening sun, +scarcely gleaming through hazy clouds, cast a pale, tender hue +upon the landscape, and the copses, still dewy with a shower that +had lately fallen, diffused the most grateful fragrance. +Flocks of sheep hung browsing on the acclivities, whilst a +numerous herd were dispersed along the river’s side. +I stayed so long, enjoying this pastoral scene, that we did not +arrive at Liège till the night was advanced, and the moon +risen. Her interesting gleams were thrown away upon this +ill-built, crowded city; and I grieved that gates and +fortifications prevented my breathing the fresh air of the +surrounding mountains.</p> +<p>Next morning (July 6th) a zigzag road brought us, after many +descents and rises, to Spa. The approach, through a rocky +vale, is not totally devoid of picturesque merit, and as I met no +cabriolets or tituppings on the chaufée, I concluded that +the waters were not as yet much visited; and that I should have +their romantic environs pretty much to myself. But, alas, +how rudely was I deceived! The moment we entered up flew a +dozen sashes. Chevaliers de St. Louis, meagre Marquises, +and ladies of the scarlet order of Babylon, all poked their heads +out. In a few minutes half the town was in motion; tailors, +confectioners, and barbers thrusting bills into our hands with +manifold grimaces and contortions. Then succeeded a grand +<i>entré</i> of <i>valets de place</i>, who were hardly +dismissed before the lodging letters arrived, followed by +somebody with a list of <i>les seigneurs</i> and <i>dames</i> as +long as a Welsh pedigree. Half-an-hour was wasted in +speeches and recommendations; another passed before we could +snatch a morsel of refreshment; they then finding I was neither +inclined to go to the ball, nor enter the land where Pharaoh +reigneth, peace was restored, a few feeble bows were scraped, and +I found myself in perfect solitude. Taking advantage of +this quiet moment, I stole out of town, and followed a path cut +in the rocks, which brought me to a young wood of oaks on their +summits. Luckily I met no saunterer: the gay vagabonds, it +seemed, were all at the assembly, as happy as billiards and +chit-chat could make them. It was not an evening to tempt +such folks abroad. The air was cool, and the sky lowering; +a melancholy cloud shaded the wild hills and irregular woods at a +distance. There was something so importunate in their +appearance, that I could not help asking their name, and was told +they were skirts of the forest of Ardenne, amongst whose +enchanted labyrinths the heroes of Boyardo and Ariosto roved +formerly in quest of adventures. I felt myself singularly +affected whilst gazing upon a wood so celebrated in romance for +feats of the highest chivalry; and, Don Quixote-like, would have +explored its recesses in search of that memorable fountain of +hatred, which (if you recollect the story) was raised by Merlin +to free illustrious knights and damsels from the torments of +rejected love. So far was I advanced in these romantic +fancies, that, forgetting the lateness of the hour, I wandered +on, expecting to reach the fountain at every step; but at length +it grew so dusky that, unable to trace back my way amongst the +thickets, in vain I strayed through intricate copses, till the +clouds began to disperse and the moon appeared. Being so +placed as to receive the full play of silver radiance, to my no +small surprise, I beheld a precipice immediately beneath my +feet. The chasm was deep and awful; something like the +entrance to a grot discovered itself below, and if I had not +already been disappointed on the score of the fount, I +won’t answer but that I should have flung myself +adventurously down, and tried whether I might not have seen such +wonders as appeared to Bradamante, when cast by Pinnabel, rather +impolitely, into Merlin’s cave. But no propitious +light beaming from the cavity, I concluded times were changed; +and searching about me, found at last a shelving steep, which it +was just possible to descend without goat’s heels, and +that’s all.</p> +<p>In my way home, I passed the redoute, and seeing a vast glare +of lustres in its apartments, I ran upstairs and found the +gamblers all eager in storming the Pharaoh Bank: a young +Englishman of distinction seemed the most likely to raise the +siege, which increased every instant in turbulence; but not +feeling the least inclination to protract or to shorten its fate, +I left the knights to their adventures, and returned ingloriously +to my inn.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p119b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The canal, Ghent, and Aix la Chapelle Cathedral" +title= +"The canal, Ghent, and Aix la Chapelle Cathedral" + src="images/p119s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>All languages are chattering at the Table d’Hôte, +and all sorts of business transacted under my very windows. +The racket and perfume of this place make me resolve to get out +of it to-morrow; as that is the case, you won’t hear from +me till I reach Munich. Adieu! May we meet in our +dreams by the fountain of Merlin, and from thence take our flight +with Astolpho to the moon; for I shrewdly suspect the best part +of our senses are bottled up there; and then, you know, it will +be a delightful novelty to wake up with a clear +understanding.</p> +<p>“Indeed, Sir, no Monsieur <i>comme il faut</i>, ever +left Spa in such dudgeon before, unless jilted by a Polish +princess, or stripped by an itinerant Count! You have +neither breakfasted at the Vauxhall, nor attended the Spectacle, +nor tasted the waters. Had you but taken one sip, your +ill-humour would have all trickled away, and you would have felt +both your heels and your elbows quite alive in the +evening.”—Granted; but pray tell your postillions to +drive off as fast as their horses will carry them.</p> +<p>Away we went to Aix-la-Chapelle about ten at night, and saw +the mouldering turrets of that once illustrious capital by the +help of a candle and lantern. An old woman asked our names +(for not a single soldier appeared); and traversing a number of +superannuated streets without perceiving the least trace of +Charlemagne or his Paladins, we procured comfortable though not +magnificent apartments, and slept most unheroically sound, till +it was time to set forward for Dusseldorf.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 8<i>th</i>.—As we were driven out of the +town, I caught a glimpse of a grove, hemmed in by dingy +buildings, where a few water-drinkers were sauntering along to +the sound of some rueful French horns; the wan greenish light +admitted through the foliage made them look like unhappy souls +condemned to an eternal lounge for having trifled away their +existence. It was not with much regret that I left such a +party behind; and, after experiencing the vicissitudes of good +roads and rumbling pavements, found myself, towards the close of +evening, upon the banks of the Rhine.</p> +<p>Many wild ideas thronged into my mind, the moment I beheld +this celebrated river. I thought of the vast regions +through which it flows, and suffered my imagination to expatiate +as far as its source. A red, variegated sky, reflected from +the stream, the woods trembling on its banks, and the spires of +Nuys rising beyond them, helped to amuse my fancy. Not +being able to brook the confinement of the carriage, I left it to +come over at its leisure; and, stepping into a boat, rowed along, +at first, by the quivering osiers; then, launching out into the +midst of the waters, I glided a few moments with the current, and +resting on my oars, listened to the hum of voices afar off, while +several little skiffs, like canoes, glanced before my sight, +concerning which distance and the twilight allowed me to make a +thousand fantastic conjectures. When I had sufficiently +indulged these extravagant reveries, I began to cross over the +river in good earnest; and being landed on its opposite margin, +travelled forwards to the town.</p> +<p>Nothing but the famous gallery of paintings could invite +strangers to stay a moment within its walls; more crooked +streets, more indifferent houses, one seldom meets with; except +soldiers, not a living creature moving about them; and at night a +complete regiment of bugs “marked me for their +own.” Thus I lay, at once both the seat of war and +the victim of these detestable animals, till early in the morning +(Sunday, July 9th), when Morpheus, compassionating my sufferings, +opened the ivory gates of his empire, and freed his votary from +the most unconscionable vermin that ever nastiness +engendered. In humble prose, I fell fast asleep; and +remained quiet, in defiance of my adversaries, till it was time +to survey the cabinet.</p> +<p>This collection is displayed in five large galleries, and +contains some valuable productions of the Italian school; but the +room most boasted of is that which Rubens has filled with no less +than three enormous representations of the last day, where an +innumerable host of sinners are exhibited as striving in vain to +avoid the tangles of the devil’s tail. The woes of +several fat luxurious souls are rendered in the highest +gusto. Satan’s dispute with some brawny concubines, +whom he is lugging off in spite of all their resistance, cannot +be too much admired by those who approve this class of subject, +and think such strange imbroglios in the least calculated to +raise a sublime or a religious idea.</p> +<p>For my own part, I turned from them with disgust, and hastened +to contemplate a Holy Family by Camillo Procaccini, in another +apartment. The brightest imagination can never conceive any +figure more graceful than that of the young Jesus; and if ever I +beheld an inspired countenance or celestial features, it was +here: but to attempt conveying in words what colours alone can +express, would be only reversing the absurdity of many a master +in the gallery, who aims to represent those ideas by colours +which language alone is able to describe. Should you admit +this opinion, you won’t be surprised at my passing such a +multitude of renowned pictures unnoticed; nor at my bringing you +out of the cabinet without deluging ten pages with criticisms in +the style of the ingenious Lady M—.</p> +<p>As I had spent so much time in gazing at Camillo’s +divinity, the day was too far advanced to think of travelling to +Cologne; I was therefore obliged to put myself once more under +the dominion of the most inveterate bugs in the universe. +This government, like many others, made but an indifferent use of +its power, and the subject suffering accordingly was extremely +rejoiced at flying from his persecutors to Cologne.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 10<i>th</i>.—Clouds of dust hindered my +making any remarks on the exterior of this celebrated city; but +if its appearance be not more beautiful from without than within, +I defy Mr. Salmon himself to launch forth very warmly in its +praise. But of what avail are stately palaces, broad +streets, or airy markets, to a town which can boast of such a +treasure as the bodies of those three wise sovereigns who were +star-led to Bethlehem? Is not this circumstance enough to +procure it every respect? I really believe so, from the +pious and dignified contentment of its inhabitants. They +care not a hair of an ass’s ear whether their houses be +gloomy and ill-contrived, their pavements overgrown with weeds, +and their shops with filthiness, provided the carcasses of +Gaspar, Melchior, and Balthazar might be preserved with proper +decorum. Nothing, to be sure, can be richer than the shrine +which contains these precious relics. I paid my devotions +before it the moment I arrived; this step was inevitable: had I +omitted it, not a soul in Cologne but would have cursed me for a +Pagan.</p> +<p>Do you not wonder at hearing of these venerable bodies so far +from their native country? I thought them snug in some +Arabian pyramid ten feet deep in spice; but you see one can never +tell what is to become of one a few ages hence. Who knows +but the Emperor of Morocco may be canonized some future day in +Lapland? I asked, of course, how in the name of miracles +they came hither; but found no story of a supernatural +conveyance. It seems the holy Empress Helena, as great a +collectress of relics as the D—s of P. is of profane +curiosities, first routed them out: then they were packed off to +Rome. King Alaric, having no grace, bundled them down to +Milan; where they remained till it pleased God to inspire an +ancient archbishop with the fervent wish of depositing them at +Cologne. There these skeletons were taken into the most +especial consideration, crowned with jewels and filigreed with +gold. Never were skulls more elegantly mounted; and I doubt +whether Odin’s buffet could exhibit so fine an +assortment. The chapel containing these beatified bones is +placed in a dark extremity of the cathedral. Several golden +lamps gleam along the polished marbles with which it is adorned, +and afford just light enough to read the following monkish +inscription:—</p> +<blockquote><p><span class="GutSmall">“CORPORA SANCTORUM +RECUBANT HIC TERNA MAGORUM;</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">EX HIS SUBLATUM NIHIL EST ALIBIVE +LOCATUM.”</span></p> +</blockquote> +<p>After I had satisfied my curiosity with respect to the +peregrinations of the consecrated skeletons, I examined their +shrine; and was rather surprised to find it not only enriched +with barbaric gold and pearl, but covered with cameos and +intaglios of the best antique sculpture. Many an impious +emperor and gross Silenus, many a wanton nymph and frantic +bacchanal, figure in the same range with the statues of saints +and evangelists. How St. Helena could tolerate such a mixed +assembly (for the shrine was formed under her auspices) surpasses +my comprehension. Perhaps you will say it is no great +matter, and give me a hint to move out of the chapel, lest the +three kings and their star should lead me quite out of my +way. Very well; I think I had better stop in time, to tell +you, without further excursion, that we set off after dinner for +Bonn.</p> +<p>Our road-side was lined with beggarly children, high convent +walls, and scarecrow crucifixes, lubberly monks, dejected +peasants, and all the delights of Catholicism. Such scenery +not engaging a share of my attention, I kept gazing at the azure +irregular mountains which bounded our view, and in thought was +already transported to their summits. Various are the +prospects I surveyed from this imaginary exaltation, and +innumerable the chimeras which trotted in my brain. Mounted +on these fantastic quadrupeds, I shot swiftly from rock to rock, +and built castles in the style of Piranesi upon most of their +pinnacles. The magnificence and variety of my aërial +towers hindered my thinking the way long. I was still +walking with a crowd of phantoms upon their terraces, when the +carriage made a halt. Immediately descending the +innumerable flights of steps which divide such lofty edifices +from the lower world, I entered the inn at Bonn, and was shown +into an apartment which commands the chief front of the +Elector’s palace. You may guess how contemptible it +appeared to one just returned from the court of fancy.</p> +<p>In other respects, I saw it in a very favourable moment; for +the twilight, shading the whole façade, concealed its +plaistered walls and painted pillars; their pediments and +capitals being tolerably well proportioned, and the range of +windows beneath considerable, I gave the architect more credit +than he deserved, and paced to and fro beneath the arcade, as +pompously as if arrived at the Vatican; but the circumstance +which rendered my walk in reality agreeable, was the prevalence +of a delicious perfume. It was so dusky, that I was a +minute or two seeking in vain the entrance of an orangery, from +whence this reviving scent proceeded. At length I +discovered it; and, passing under an arch, found myself in the +midst of lemon and orange trees, now in the fullest blow, which +form a continued grove before the palace, and extend, on each +side of its grand portal, out of sight. A few steps +separate this extensive terrace from a lawn, bordered by stately +rows of beeches. Beyond, in the centre of this striking +theatre, rises a romantic assemblage of distant mountains, +crowned with the ruins of castles, whose turrets, but faintly +seen, were just such as you have created to complete a +prospect. I was the only human being in the misty extent of +the gardens, and was happier in my solitude than I can +describe. No noise disturbed its silence, except the +flutter of moths and trickling of fountains. These +undecided sounds, corresponding with the dimness and haze of the +scenery, threw me into a pensive state of mind, neither gay nor +dismal. I recapitulated the wayward adventures of my +childhood, and traced back each moment of a period, which had +seen me happy. Then, turning my thoughts towards future +days, my heart beat at the idea of that awful veil which covers +the time to come. One moment, ’twas the brightest +hope that glittered behind it; the next, a series of melancholy +images clouded the perspective. Thus, alternately swayed by +fears and exultation, I passed an interesting hour in the +twilight, ranging amongst the orange trees, or reclined by the +fountain. I could not boast of being perfectly satisfied, +since those were absent, without whom not even the fields of Enna +could be charming. However, I was far from displeased with +the clear streams that bubbled around, and could willingly have +dropped asleep by their margin. Had I reposed in so +romantic a situation, the murmurs of trees and waters would +doubtless have invited “some strange mysterious +dream” to hover over me, and perhaps futurity might have +been unveiled.</p> +<h2>LETTER VIII.</h2> +<p><i>July </i>11<i>th</i>.—Let those who delight in +picturesque country repair to the borders of the Rhine, and +follow the road which we took from Bonn to Coblentz. In +some places it is suspended like a cornice above the waters; in +others, it winds behind lofty steeps and broken acclivities, +shaded by woods and clothed with an endless variety of plants and +flowers. Several green paths lead amongst this vegetation +to the summits of the rocks, which often serve as the foundation +of abbeys and castles, whose lofty roofs and spires, rising above +the cliffs, impress passengers with ideas of their grandeur, that +might probably vanish upon a nearer approach. Not choosing +to lose any prejudice in their favour, I kept a respectful +distance whenever I left my carriage, and walked on the banks of +the river.</p> +<p>Just before we came to Andernach, an antiquated town with +strange morisco-looking towers, I spied a raft, at least three +hundred feet in length, on which ten or twelve cottages were +erected, and a great many people employed in sawing wood. +The women sat spinning at their doors, whilst their children +played among the water-lilies that bloomed in abundance on the +edge of the stream. A smoke, rising from one of these +aquatic habitations, partially obscured the mountains beyond, and +added not a little, to their effect.</p> +<p>Altogether, the scene was so novel and amusing, that I sat +half an hour contemplating it from an eminence under the shade of +some leafy walnuts; and should like extremely to build a moveable +village, people it with my friends, and so go floating about from +island to island, and from one woody coast of the Rhine to +another. Would you dislike such a party? I am much +deceived, or you would be the first to explore the shades and +promontories beneath which we should be wafted along.</p> +<p>But I don’t think you would find Coblentz, where we were +obliged to take up our night’s lodging, much to your +taste. ’Tis a mean, dirty assemblage of plastered +houses, striped with paint, and set off with wooden galleries, in +the beautiful taste of St. Giles’s. Above, on a rock, +stands the palace of the Elector, which seems to be remarkable +for nothing but situation. I did not bestow many looks on +this structure whilst ascending the mountain across which our +road to Mayence conducted us.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 12<i>th</i>.—Having attained the summit, we +discovered a vast, irregular range of country, and advancing, +found ourselves amongst downs bounded by forests and purpled with +thyme. This sort of prospect extending for several leagues, +I walked on the turf, and inhaled with avidity the fresh gales +that blew over its herbage, till I came to a steep slope +overgrown with privet and a variety of luxuriant shrubs in +blossom; there reposing beneath its shade, I gathered flowers, +listened to the bees, observed their industry, and idled away a +few minutes with great fascination. A cloudless sky and +bright sunshine made me rather loth to move on; but the charms of +the landscape, increasing every instant, drew me forward.</p> +<p>I had not gone far, before a winding valley discovered itself, +shut in by rocks and mountains clothed to their very summits with +the thickest woods. A broad river, flowing at the base of +the cliffs, reflected the impending vegetation, and looked so +calm and glassy that I was determined to be better acquainted +with it. For this purpose we descended by a zigzag path +into the vale, and making the best of our way on the banks of the +Lune (for so is the river called), came suddenly upon the town of +Ems, famous in mineral story; where finding very good lodgings, +we took up our abode, and led an Indian life amongst the wilds +and mountains.</p> +<p>After supper I walked on a smooth lawn by the river, to +observe the moon journeying through a world of silver clouds that +lay dispersed over the face of the heavens. It was a mild +genial evening; every mountain cast its broad shadow on the +surface of the stream; lights twinkled afar off on the hills; +they burnt in silence. All were asleep, except a female +figure in white, with glow-worms shining in her hair. She +kept moving disconsolately about; sometimes I heard her sigh; and +if apparitions sigh, this must have been an apparition. +Upon my return, I asked a thousand questions, but could never +obtain any information of the figure and its luminaries.</p> +<p><i>July </i>13<i>th</i>.—The pure air of the morning +invited me early to the hills. Hiring a skiff, I rowed +about a mile down the stream, and landed on a sloping meadow, +level with the waters, and newly mown. Heaps of hay still +lay dispersed under the copses which hemmed in on every side this +little sequestered paradise. What a spot for a tent! +I could encamp here for months, and never be tired. Not a +day would pass by without discovering some new promontory, some +untrodden pasture, some unsuspected vale, where I might remain +among woods and precipices lost and forgotten. I would give +you, and two or three more, the clue of my labyrinth: nobody else +should be conscious of its entrance. Full of such agreeable +dreams, I rambled about the meads, scarcely knowing which way I +was going; sometimes a spangled fly led me astray, and, oftener, +my own strange fancies. Between both, I was perfectly +bewildered, and should never have found my boat again, had not an +old German naturalist, who was collecting fossils on the cliffs, +directed me to it.</p> +<p>When I got home it was growing late, and I now began to +perceive that I had taken no refreshment, except the perfume of +the hay and a few wood strawberries; airy diet, you will observe, +for one not yet received into the realms of Ginnistan. <a +name="citation127"></a><a href="#footnote127" +class="citation">[127]</a></p> +<p><i>July</i> 14<i>th</i>.—I have just made a discovery, +that this place as full of idlers and water-drinkers as their +Highnesses of Orange and Hesse Darmstadt can desire; for to them +accrue all the profits of its salubrious fountains. I +protest, I knew nothing of all this yesterday, so entirely was I +taken up with the rocks and meadows; no chance of meeting either +card or billiard players in their solitudes. Both abound at +Ems, where they hop and fidget from ball to ball, unconscious of +the bold scenery in their neighbourhood, and totally insensible +to its charms. They had no notion, not they, of admiring +barren crags and precipices, where even the Lord would lose his +way, as a coarse lubber decorated with stars and orders very +ingeniously observed to me; nor could they form the least +conception of any pleasure there was in climbing like a goat +amongst the cliffs, and then diving into woods and recesses where +the sun had never penetrated; where there were neither +card-tables prepared nor sideboards garnished; no <i>jambon de +Mayence</i> in waiting; no supply of pipes, nor any of the +commonest delights, to be met with in the commonest taverns.</p> +<p>To all this I acquiesced with most perfect submission, but +immediately left the orator to entertain a circle of antiquated +dames and weather-beaten officers who were gathering around +him. Scarcely had I turned my back upon this polite +assembly, when <i>Monsieur l’Administrateur des bains</i>, +a fine pompous fellow, who had been <i>maitre +d’hôtel</i> in a great German family, came forward +purposely to acquaint me, I suppose, that their baths had the +honour of possessing Prince Orloff, “<i>avec sa grande +maitresse</i>, <i>son Chamberlain et quelques Dames +d’Honneur</i>:” moreover, that his Highness came +hither to refresh himself after his laborious employments at the +Court of Petersburg, and expected (<i>grace aux eaux</i>!) to +return to the domains his august sovereign had lately bestowed +upon him in perfect health, and to become the father of his +people.</p> +<p>Wishing Monsieur d’Orloff all possible success, I should +have left the company at a great distance, had not a violent +shower stopped my career, and obliged me to return to my +apartment. The rain growing heavier, intercepted the +prospect of the mountains, and spread such a gloom over the vale +as sank my spirits fifty degrees; to which a close foggy +atmosphere not a little contributed. Towards night the +clouds assumed a more formidable aspect. Thunder rolled +awfully along the distant cliffs, and several rapid torrents +began to run down the steeps. Unable to stay within, I +walked into an open portico, listening to the murmur of the +river, mingled with the roar of falling waters. At +intervals a blue flash of lightning discovered their agitated +surface, and two or three scared women rushing through the storm +and calling all the saints in Paradise to their assistance.</p> +<p>Things were in this state, when the orator who had harangued +so brilliantly on the nothingness of ascending mountains, took +shelter under the porch, and entering immediately into +conversation, regaled my ears with a woful narration of murders +which had happened the other day on the precise road I was to +follow next morning.</p> +<p>“Sir,” said he, “your route is, to be sure, +very perilous: on the left you have a chasm, down which, should +your horses take the smallest alarm, you are infallibly +precipitated; to the right hangs an impervious wood, and there, +sir, I can assure you, are wolves enough to devour a regiment; a +little farther on, you cross a desolate tract of forest land, the +roads so deep and broken, that if you go ten paces in as many +minutes you may think yourself fortunate. There lurk the +most savage banditti in Europe, lately irritated by the Prince of +Orange’s proscription; and so desperate, that if they once +attack, you can expect no mercy. Should you venture through +this hazardous district to-morrow, you will, in all probability, +meet a company of people who have just left the town to search +for the mangled bodies of their relations; but, for +Heaven’s sake, sir, if you value your life, do not suffer +an idle curiosity to lead you over such dangerous regions, +however picturesque their appearance.”</p> +<p>I own I felt rather intimidated by so formidable a prospect, +and was very near abandoning my plan of crossing the mountains, +and so go back again and round about, the Lord knows where; but +considering this step would be quite unheroical, I resolved to +attribute my fears to the gloom of the moment, and the dejection +it occasioned. It was almost nine o’clock before my +kind adviser ceased inspiring me with terrors; then, finding +myself at liberty, I retired to bed, not under the most agreeable +impressions; and after tossing and tumbling in the agitation of +tumultuous slumbers, I started up at seven in the morning of July +15th, ordered the horses, and set forward, without further +dilemmas. Though it had thundered almost the whole night, +the air was still clogged with vapours, the mountains bathed in +humid clouds, and the scene I had so warmly admired no longer +discernible. Proceeding along the edge of the precipices I +had been forewarned of, for about an hour, and escaping that +peril at least, we traversed the slopes of a rude, heathy hill, +in instantaneous expectation of foes and murderers. A misty +rain prevented us seeing above ten yards before us, and every +uncouth oak or rocky fragment we approached seemed lurking spies +or gigantic enemies. One time the murmur of the wind among +invisible woods of beech, sounded like the wail of distress; and +at another the noise of a torrent we could not discover, +counterfeited the report of musquetry. In this suspicious +manner we journeyed through the forest which had so recently been +the scene of assaults and depredations. At length, after +winding several restless hours amongst its dreary avenues, we +emerged into open daylight. The sky cleared, a cultivated +vale lay before us, and the evening sun, gleaming bright through +the vapours, cast a cheerful look upon some corn-fields, and +seemed to promise better times. A few minutes more brought +us safe to the village of Viesbaden, where we slept in peace and +tranquillity.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 16<i>th</i>.—Our apprehensions entirely +dispersed, we rose light and refreshed from our slumbers, and +passing through Mayence, Oppenheim, and Worms, travelled gaily +over the plain in which Mannheim is situated. The sun set +before we arrived there, and it was by the mild gleams of the +rising moon, that I first beheld the vast electoral palace, and +those long straight streets and neat white houses, which +distinguish this elegant capital from almost every other.</p> +<p>Numbers of well-dressed people were amusing themselves with +music and fireworks in the squares and open spaces; other groups +appeared conversing in circles before their doors, and enjoying +the serenity of the evening. Almost every window bloomed +with carnations; and we could hardly cross a street without +hearing the German flute. A scene of such happiness and +refinement contrasted in the most agreeable manner with the +dismal prospects we had left behind. No storms, no +frightful chasms, were here to alarm us, no ruffians or lawless +plunderers. All around was peace, security, and contentment +in their most engaging attire.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 17<i>th</i>.—Though all impatience to reach +that delightful classic region which already possesses, as I have +often said, the better half of my spirit, I could not think of +leaving Mannheim unexplored; and therefore resolved to give up +the day to the halls and galleries of the electoral palace. +Those, which contain the cabinet of paintings and sculptures in +ivory, form a regular suite of nine immense apartments, about +three hundred and seventy-two feet in length, well-proportioned +and uniformly floored with inlaid wood. Each room has ample +folding-doors richly gilt and varnished. When seen in +perspective these entrances have the most magnificent effect +imaginable. Nothing can give nobler ideas of space than +such an enfilade of saloons unencumbered by heavy furniture, +where the eyes range without interruption: I wandered alone from +one to the other, and was never wearied with contemplating the +variety of pictures which enliven the scene, and convey the +highest idea of the collector’s taste. When my +curiosity was a little satisfied, I left this amusing series of +apartments with regret, visited the library which the present +Elector Palatine has formed, upon the same great scale that +characterizes his other collections, and, after viewing the rest +of the palace, saw the opera house, which may boast of having +contained one of the first bands in Europe: from thence I +returned home in a very musical humour.</p> +<p>An excellent harpsichord seconded this disposition, which +lasted me till late in the evening; when growing drowsy, I +yielded to the influence of sleep, and was in an instant +transported to a far more delightful palace than that of the +elector; where I expatiated in perfumed apartments with yellow +light, and conversed with none but Albano and Claude Lorrain, +till the beams of the morning sun entered my chamber, and forced +my visiting companions to fly murmuring to the shades. I +cannot say but I was sorry to leave Mannheim, though my +acquaintance with it was entirely confined to inanimate +objects. The cheerful air and free range of the galleries +would be sufficient, for several days, for my amusement; as you +know I could people them with phantoms. Not many leagues +out of town, lie the famous gardens of Schweidsing. The +weather being extremely warm, we were glad to avail ourselves of +their shades. There are a great many fountains inclosed by +thickets of shrubs, and cool alleys which lead to arbours of +trellis-work, festooned with nasturtiums and convolvuluses. +Several catalpas and sumachs in full flower gave considerable +richness to the scenery; and whilst we walked amongst them, a +fresh breeze gently waved their summits. The tall poplars +and acacias, quivering with the air, cast innumerable shadows on +the intervening plats of greensward, and, as they moved their +branches, discovered other walks beyond, and distant jets of +water rising above their foliage, and sparkling in the sun. +After passing a multitude of shady avenues, terminated by temples +or groups of statues, we followed our guide through a kind of +arched bower to a little opening in the wood, neatly paved with +different coloured pebbles. On one side, appeared niches +and alcoves, ornamented with spars and polished marbles; on the +other, an aviary; in front, a superb pavilion, with baths, +porticos, and cabinets, fitted up in the most elegant and +luxurious style. The song of exotic birds; the freshness of +the surrounding verdure heightened by falling streams; and that +dubious poetic light admitted through thick foliage, so agreeable +after the glare of a sultry day, detained me for some time in an +alcove reading Spenser, and imagining myself but a few paces +removed from the Idle Lake. I would fain have loitered an +hour more in this enchanted bower, had not the gardener, whose +patience was quite exhausted, and who had never heard of the +Red-Cross Knight and his achievements, dragged me away to a +sunburnt, contemptible hillock, commanding the view of a +serpentine ditch, and decorated with the title of Jardin +Anglois. Some object like decayed limekilns and mouldering +ovens, is disposed in an amphitheatrical form, on the declivity +of this tremendous eminence: and there is to be ivy, and a +cascade, and what not, as my conductor observed. A glance +was all I bestowed on this caricature upon English gardens; I +then went off in a huff at being chased from my bower, and +grumbled all the road to Entsweigen; where, to our misfortune, we +lay amidst hogs and vermin, who amply revenged my quarrels with +their country.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 20<i>th</i>.—After travelling a post or two, +we came in sight of a green moor, with many insulated woods and +villages; the Danube sweeping majestically along, and the city of +Ulm rising upon its banks. The fields in its neighbourhood +were overspread with cloths bleaching in the sun, and waiting for +barks which convey them down the great river, in ten days, to +Vienna, and from thence through Hungary, into the midst of the +Turkish Empire. I almost envied the merchants their voyage, +and descending to the edge of the stream, proffered my orisons to +Father Danube, beseeching him to remember me to the regions +through which he flows. I promised him an altar and solemn +rites, should he grant my request, and was very idolatrous, until +the shadows lengthening over the unlimited plains on his margin, +reminded me that the sun would be shortly sunk, and that I had +still above fifteen miles to go. Gathering a purple iris +that grew upon the bank, I wore it to his honour; and have reason +to fancy my piety was rewarded, as not a fly or an insect dared +to buzz about me the whole evening.</p> +<p>You never saw a brighter sky nor more glowing clouds than +gilded our horizon. The air was impregnated with the +perfume of clover, and for ten miles we beheld no other objects +than smooth levels enamelled with flowers, and interspersed with +thickets of oak, beyond which appeared a long series of +mountains, that distance and the evening tinged with an +interesting azure. Such were the very spots for youthful +games and exercises, open spaces for tilts, and spreading shades +to screen the spectators.</p> +<p>Father Lafiteau tells us, there are many such vast and flowery +meads in the interior of America, to which the roving tribes of +Indians repair once or twice in a century to settle the rights of +the chase, and lead their solemn dances; and so deep an +impression do these assemblies leave on the minds of the savages, +that the highest ideas they entertain of future felicity consist +in the perpetual enjoyment of songs and dances upon the green +boundless lawns of their elysium. In the midst of these +visionary plains rises the abode of Aneantsic, encircled by +choirs of departed chieftains leaping in cadence to the mournful +sound of spears as they ring on the shell of the tortoise. +Their favourite attendants, long separated from them whilst on +earth, are restored again in this ethereal region, and skim +freely over the vast level space; now hailing one group of +beloved friends, and now another. Mortals newly ushered by +death into this world of pure blue sky and boundless meads, see +the long-lost objects of their affection advancing across the +lawn to meet them. Flights of familiar birds, the purveyors +of many an earthly chase, once more attend their progress, whilst +the shades of their faithful dogs seem coursing each other +below. Low murmurs and tinkling sounds fill the whole +region, and, as its new denizens proceed, increase in melody, +till, unable to resist the thrilling music, they spring forward +in ecstasies to join the eternal round.</p> +<p>A share of this celestial transport seemed communicated to me +whilst my eyes wandered over the plain, which appeared to widen +and extend in proportion as the twilight prevailed.</p> +<p>The dusky hour, favourable to conjurations, allowed me to +believe the spirits of departed friends not far removed from the +clouds, which, to all appearance, reposed at the extremity of the +prospect, and tinted the surface of the horizon with ruddy +colours. This glow still lingered upon the verge of the +landscape, after the sun disappeared; and ’twas in those +peaceful moments, when no sound but the browsing of cattle +reached me, that I imagined benign looks were cast upon me from +the golden vapours, and I seemed to catch glimpses of faint forms +moving, amongst them, which were once so dear; and even thought +my ears affected by well-known voices, long silent upon +earth. When the warm hues of the sky were gradually fading, +and the distant thickets began to assume a deeper and more +melancholy blue, I fancied a shape like Thisbe <a +name="citation133"></a><a href="#footnote133" +class="citation">[133]</a> shot swiftly along; and, sometimes +halting afar off, cast an affectionate look upon her old master, +that seemed to say, When you draw near the last inevitable hour, +and the pale countries of Aneantsic are stretched out before you, +I will precede your footsteps, and guide them safe through the +wild labyrinths which separate this world from yours. I was +so possessed with the ideas and so full of the remembrance of +that poor, affectionate creature, whose miserable end you were +the witness of, that I did not, for several minutes, perceive our +arrival at Guntsberg. Hurrying to bed, I seemed in my +slumbers to pass that interdicted boundary which divides our +earth from the region of Indian happiness. Thisbe ran +nimbly before me; her white form glimmered amongst dusky forests; +she led me into an infinitely spacious plain, where I heard vast +multitudes discoursing upon events to come. What further +passed must never be revealed. I awoke in tears, and could +hardly find spirits enough to look around me, till we were +driving through the midst of Augsburg.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 21<i>st</i>.—We dined and rambled about this +renowned city till evening. The colossal paintings on the +walls of almost every considerable building gave it a strange +air, which pleases upon the score of novelty.</p> +<p>Having passed a number of streets decorated in this exotic +manner, we found ourselves suddenly before the public hall, by a +noble statue of Augustus, under whose auspices the colony was +formed. Which way soever we turned, our eyes met some +remarkable edifice, or marble basin into which several groups of +sculptured river-gods pour a profusion of waters. These +stately fountains and bronze statues, the extraordinary size and +loftiness of the buildings, the towers rising in perspective, and +the Doric portal of the town-house, answered in some measure the +idea Montfaucon gives us of the scene of an ancient +tragedy. Whenever a pompous Flemish painter attempts a +representation of Troy, and displays in his background those +streets of palaces described in the Iliad, Augsburg, or some such +city, may easily be traced. Sometimes a corner of Antwerp +discovers itself; and generally, above a Corinthian portico, +rises a Gothic spire. Just such a jumble may be viewed from +the statue of Augustus, under which I remained till the Concierge +came, who was to open the gates of the town-house, and show me +its magnificent hall.</p> +<p>I wished for you exceedingly when, ascending a flight of a +hundred steps, I entered it through a portal, supported by tall +pillars and crowned with a majestic pediment. Upon +advancing, I discovered five more entrances equally grand, with +golden figures of guardian genii leaning over the entablature; +and saw, through a range of windows, each above thirty feet high, +and nearly level with the marble pavement, the whole city, with +all its roofs and spires, beneath my feet. The pillars, +cornices, and panels of this striking apartment are uniformly +tinged with brown and gold; and the ceiling, enriched with +emblematical paintings and innumerable canopies of carved work, +casts a very magisterial shade. Upon the whole, I should +not be surprised at a burgomaster assuming a formidable dignity +in such a room.</p> +<p>I must confess it had a somewhat similar effect upon me; and I +descended the flight of steps with as much pomposity as if a +triumphal car waited at my feet, or as if on the point of giving +audience to the Queen of Sheba. It happened to be a +Saint’s day, and half the inhabitants of Augsburg were +gathered together in the opening before their hall; the greatest +numbers, especially the women, still exhibiting the very +identical dresses which Hollar engraved. My lofty gait +imposed upon this primitive assembly, which receded to give me +passage with as much silent respect as if I had really been the +wise sovereign of Israel. When I got home, an execrable +supper was served up to my majesty; I scolded in an unroyal +style, and soon convinced myself I was no longer Solomon.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 22<i>nd</i>.—Joy to the Electors of Bavaria! +for planting such extensive woods of fir in their dominions as +shade over the chief part of the road from Augsburg to +Munich. Near the last-mentioned city, I cannot boast of the +scenery changing to advantage. Instead of flourishing woods +and verdure, we beheld a parched dreary flat, diversified by +fields of withering barley, and stunted avenues drawn formally +across them; now and then a stagnant pool, and sometimes a +dunghill, by way of regale. However, the wild rocks of the +Tyrol terminate the view, and to them imagination may fly, and +walk amidst springs and lilies of her own creation. I speak +from authority, having had the pleasure of anticipating an +evening in this romantic style.</p> +<p>Tuesday next is the grand fair, with horse-races and +junketings: a piece of news I was but too soon acquainted with; +for the moment we entered the town, good-natured creatures from +all quarters advised us to get out of it; since traders and +harlequins had filled every corner of the place, and there was +not a lodging to be procured. The inns, to be sure, were +like hives of industrious animals sorting their merchandise, and +preparing their goods for sale. Yet, in spite of +difficulties, we got possession of a quiet apartment.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 23<i>rd</i>.—We were driven in the evening +to Nymphenburg, the Elector’s country palace, whose +bosquets, jets-d’eaux, and parterres are the pride of the +Bavarians. The principal platform is all of a glitter with +gilded Cupids and shining serpents spouting at every pore. +Beds of poppies, hollyhocks, scarlet lychnis, and the most +flaming flowers, border the edge of the walks, which extend till +the perspective meets, and swarm with ladies and gentlemen in +parti-coloured raiment. The Queen of Golconda’s +gardens in a French opera are scarcely more gaudy and +artificial. Unluckily, too, the evening was fine, and the +sun so powerful that we were half roasted before we could cross +the great avenue and enter the thickets, which barely conceal a +very splendid hermitage, where we joined Mr. and Mrs. T., and a +party of fashionable Bavarians.</p> +<p>Amongst the ladies was Madame la Contesse, I forget who, a +production of the venerable Haslang, with her daughter, Madame de +—, who has the honour of leading the Elector in her +chains. These goddesses stepping into a car, vulgarly +called a cariole, the mortals followed, and explored alley after +alley and pavilion after pavilion. Then, having viewed +Pagodenburg, which is, as they told me, all Chinese; and +Marienburg, which is most assuredly all tinsel; we paraded by a +variety of fountains in full squirt, and though they certainly +did their best (for many were set a-going on purpose), I cannot +say I greatly admired them.</p> +<p>The ladies were very gaily attired, and the gentlemen, as +smart as swords, bags, and pretty clothes could make them, looked +exactly like the fine people one sees represented in a coloured +print. Thus we kept walking genteelly about the orangery, +till the carriage drew up and conveyed us to Mr. T’s.</p> +<p>Immediately after supper, we drove once more out of town, to a +garden and tea-room, where all degrees and ages dance jovially +together till morning. Whilst one party wheel briskly away +in the valz, another amuse themselves in a corner with cold meat +and rhenish. That despatched, out they whisk amongst the +dancers, with an impetuosity and liveliness I little expected to +have found in Bavaria. After turning round and round, with +a rapidity that is quite inconceivable to an English dancer, the +music changes to a slower movement, and then follows a succession +of zig-zag minuets, performed by old and young, straight and +crooked, noble and plebeian, all at once, from one end of the +room to the other. Tallow candles snuffing and stinking, +dishes changing, heads scratching, and all sorts of performances +going forward at the same moment; the flutes, oboes, and bassoons +snorting and grunting with peculiar emphasis; now fast, now slow, +just as Variety commands, who seems to rule the ceremonial of +this motley assembly, where every distinction of rank and +privilege is totally forgotten. Once a week, on Sundays +that is to say, the rooms are open, and Monday is generally +somewhat advanced before they are deserted. If good humour +and coarse merriment are all that people desire, here they are to +be found in perfection, though at the expense of toes and +noses. Both these extremities of my person suffered most +cruelly; and I was not sorry to retire about one in the morning +to a purer atmosphere.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 24<i>th</i>.—Custom condemned us to visit +the palace, which glares with looking-glass, gilding, and cut +velvet, most sumptuously fringed and spangled. The chapel, +though small, is richer than anything Crœsus ever +possessed, let them say what they will. Not a corner but +shines with gold, diamonds, and scraps of martyrdom studded with +jewels. I had the delight of treading amethysts and the +richest gems under foot, which, if you recollect, Apuleius thinks +such supreme felicity. Alas! I was quite unworthy of the +honour, and had much rather have trodden the turf of the +mountains. Mammon would never have taken his eyes off the +pavement; mine soon left the contemplation of it, and fixed on +St. Peter’s thumb, enshrined with a degree of elegance, and +adorned by some malapert enthusiast with several of the most +delicate antique cameos I ever beheld; the subjects, Ledas and +sleeping Venuses, are a little too pagan, one should think, for +an apostle’s finger.</p> +<p>From this precious repository we were conducted through the +public garden to a large hall, where part of the Sleitzom +collection is piled up, till a gallery can be finished for its +reception. ’Twas a matter of great favour to view, in +this state, the pieces that compose it,—a very imperfect +one too, since some of the best were under operation. But I +would not upon any account have missed the sight of +Rubens’s “Massacre of the Innocents.” +Such expressive horrors were never yet transferred to canvas, and +Moloch himself might have gazed at them with pleasure.</p> +<p>After dinner we were led round the churches; and if you are as +much tired with reading my voluminous descriptions, as I was with +the continual repetition of altars and reliquaries, the Lord have +mercy upon you! However, your delivery draws near. +The post is going out, and to-morrow we shall begin to mount the +cliffs of the Tyrol; but don’t be afraid of any long-winded +epistles from their summits: I shall be too well employed in +ascending them. Just now, as I have lain by a long while, I +grow sleek, and scribble on in mere wantonness of spirit. +What excesses such a correspondence is capable of, you will soon +be able to judge.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 25<i>th</i>.—The noise of the people +thronging to the fair did not allow me to slumber very long in +the morning. When I got up, every street was crowded with +Jews and mountebanks, holding forth and driving their bargains in +all the energetic vehemence of the German tongue. Vast +quantities of rich merchandise glittered in the shops as we +passed along to the gates. Heaps of fruit and sweetmeats +set half the grandams and infants in the place a-cackling with +felicity.</p> +<p>Mighty glad was I to make my escape; and in about an hour or +two, we entered a wild tract of country, not unlike the skirts of +a princely park. A little farther on stands a cluster of +cottages, where we stopped to give our horses some bread, and +were pestered with swarms of flies, most probably journeying to +Munich fair, there to feast upon sugared tarts and +bottle-noses.</p> +<p>The next post brought us over hill and dale, grove and meadow, +to a narrow plain, watered by rivulets and surrounded by cliffs, +under which lies scattered the village of Wollrathshausen, +consisting of several cottages, built entirely of fir, with +strange galleries hanging over the way. Nothing can be +neater than the carpentry of these simple edifices, nor more +solid than their construction; many of them looked as if they had +braved the torrents which fell from the mountains a century ago; +and, if one may judge from the hoary appearance of the +inhabitants, here are patriarchs who remember the Emperor Lewis +of Bavaria. Orchards of cherry-trees impend from the steeps +above the village, which to our certain knowledge produce no +contemptible fruit.</p> +<p>Having refreshed ourselves with their cooling juice, we struck +into a grove of pines, the tallest and most flourishing perhaps +we ever beheld. There seemed no end to these forests, save +where little irregular spots of herbage, fed by cattle, +intervened. Whenever we gained an eminence it was only to +discover more ranges of dark wood, variegated with meadows and +glittering streams. White clover and a profusion of +sweet-scented flowers clothe their banks; above, waves the +mountain-ash, glowing with scarlet berries; and beyond, rise +hills and rocks and mountains, piled upon one another, and +fringed with fir to their topmost acclivities. Perhaps the +Norwegian forests alone equal these in grandeur and extent. +Those which cover the Swiss highlands rarely convey such vast +ideas. There, the woods climb only half way up their +ascents, and then are circumscribed by snows: here, no boundaries +are set to their progress, and the mountains, from their bases to +their summits, display rich unbroken masses of vegetation.</p> +<p>As we were surveying this prospect, a thick cloud, fraught +with thunder, obscured the transparence of the horizon, whilst +flashes startled our horses, whose snorts and stampings resounded +through the woods. What from the shade of the firs and the +impending tempests, we travelled several miles almost in total +darkness. One moment the clouds began to fleet, and a faint +gleam promised serener hours, but the next all was gloom and +terror; presently a deluge of rain poured down upon the valley, +and in a short time the torrents, beginning to swell, raged with +such fury as to be with difficulty forded. Twilight drew +on, just as we had passed the most terrible; then ascending a +steep hill under a mountain, whose pines and birches rustled with +the storm, we saw a little lake below. A deep azure haze +veiled its eastern shore, and lowering vapours concealed the +cliffs to the south; but over its western extremities a few +transparent clouds, the remains of the rays of a struggling +sunset, were suspended, which streamed on the surface of the +waters, and tinged with tender pink the brow of a verdant +promontory.</p> +<p>I could not help fixing myself on the banks of the lake for +several minutes, till this apparition was lost, and confounded +with the shades of night. Looking round, I shuddered at a +craggy mountain, clothed in dark forests and almost +perpendicular, that was absolutely to be surmounted before we +could arrive at Wallersee. No house, not even a shed +appearing, we were forced to ascend the peak, and penetrate these +awful groves.</p> +<p>Great praise is due to the directors of the roads across them, +which, considering their situation, are wonderfully fine. +Mounds of stone support the passage in some places; and, in +others, it is hewn with incredible labour through the solid +rock. Beeches and pines of a hundred feet high, darken the +way with their gigantic branches, casting a chill around, and +diffusing a woody odour. As we advanced, in the thick +shade, amidst the spray of torrents, and heard their loud roar in +the chasm beneath, I could scarcely help thinking myself +transported to the Grande Chartreuse; and began to conceive hopes +of once more beholding St. Bruno. <a name="citation140"></a><a +href="#footnote140" class="citation">[140]</a> But, though +that venerable father did not vouchsafe an apparition, or call to +me again from the depths of the dells, he protected his votary +from nightly perils, and brought us to the banks of Wallersee +Lake. We saw lights gleam upon its shores, which directed +us to a cottage where we reposed after our toils, and were soon +lulled to sleep by the fall of distant waters.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 26<i>th</i>.—The sun rose many hours before +me, and when I got up was spangling the surface of the lake, +which expands between steeps of wood, crowned by lofty crags and +pinnacles. We had an opportunity of contemplating this bold +assemblage as we travelled on the banks of the Meer, where it +forms a bay sheltered by impending forests; the water, tinged by +their reflection with a deep cerulean, calm and tranquil. +Mountains of pine and beech rising above, close every outlet; +and, no village or spire peeping out of the foliage, impress an +idea of more than European solitude. I could contentedly +have passed a summer’s moon in these retirements, hollowed +myself a canoe, and fished for sustenance.</p> +<p>From the shore of Wallersee, our road led us straight through +arching groves, which the axe seems never to have violated, to +the summit of a rock covered with spurge-laurel, and worn by the +course of torrents into innumerable craggy forms. Beneath, +lay extended a chaos of shattered cliffs, with tall pines +springing from their crevices, and rapid streams hurrying between +their intermingled trunks and branches. As yet, no hut +appeared, no mill, no bridge, no trace of human existence.</p> +<p>After a few hours’ journey through the wilderness, we +began to discover a wreath of smoke; and presently the cottage +from whence it arose, composed of planks, and reared on the very +brink of a precipice. Piles of cloven spruce-fir were +dispersed before the entrance, on a little spot of verdure +browsed by goats; near them sat an aged man with hoary whiskers, +his white locks tucked under a fur cap. Two or three +beautiful children, their hair neatly braided, played around him; +and a young woman, dressed in a short robe and Polish-looking +bonnet, peeped out of a wicket window.</p> +<p>I was so much struck with the exotic appearance of this +sequestered family, that, crossing a rivulet, I clambered up to +their cottage and begged some refreshment. Immediately +there was a contention amongst the children, who should be the +first to oblige me. A little black-eyed girl succeeded, and +brought me an earthen jug full of milk, with crumbled bread, and +a platter of strawberries fresh picked from the bank. I +reclined in the midst of my smiling hosts, and spread my repast +on the turf: never could I be waited upon with more hospitable +grace. The only thing I wanted was language to express my +gratitude; and it was this deficiency which made me quit them so +soon. The old man seemed visibly concerned at my departure; +and his children followed me a long way down the rocks, talking +in a dialect which passes all understanding, and waving their +hands to bid me adieu.</p> +<p>I had hardly lost sight of them and regained my carriage +before we entered a forest of pines, to all appearance without +bounds, of every age and figure; some, feathered to the ground +with flourishing branches; others, decayed into shapes like +Lapland idols. I can imagine few situations more dreadful +than to be lost at night amidst this confusion of trunks, hollow +winds whistling among the branches, and strewing their cones +below. Even at noonday, I thought we should never have +found our way out.</p> +<p>At last, having descended a long avenue, endless perspectives +opening on either side, we emerged into a valley bounded by +swelling hills, divided into agreeable shady inclosures, where +many herds were grazing. A rivulet flows along the pastures +beneath; and after winding through the village of Boidou, loses +itself in a narrow pass amongst the cliffs and precipices which +rise above the cultivated slopes, and frame in this happy +pastoral region. All the plain was in sunshine, the sky +blue, and the heights illuminated, except one rugged peak with +spires of rock, shaped not unlike the views I have seen of Sinai, +and wrapped, like that sacred mount, in clouds and +darkness. At the base of this tremendous mass, lies a neat +hamlet called Mittenvald, surrounded by thickets and banks of +verdure, and watered by frequent springs, whose sight and murmurs +were so reviving in the midst of a sultry day, that we could not +think of leaving their vicinity, but remained at Mittenvald the +whole evening.</p> +<p>Our inn had long airy galleries, and a pleasant balcony +fronting the mountain. In one of these we dined upon trout +fresh from the rills, and cherries just culled from the orchards +that cover the slopes above. The clouds were dispersing, +and the topmost peak half visible, before we ended our +repast. Every moment discovering some inaccessible cliff or +summit, shining through the mists, and tinted by the sun with +pale golden colours. These appearances filled me with such +delight and with such a train of romantic associations, that I +left the table and ran to an open field beyond the huts and +gardens, to gaze in solitude and catch the vision before it +dissolved away. You, if any human being is able, may +conceive true ideas of these glowing vapours sailing over the +pointed rocks; and brightening them in their passage with amber +light.</p> +<p>When all were faded and lost in the blue ether, I had time to +look around me and notice the mead in which I was standing. +Here, clover covered its surface; there, crops of grain; further +on, beds of herbs and the sweetest flowers. An amphitheatre +of hills and rocks, broken into a variety of glens and +precipices, guards the plain from intrusion, and opens a course +for several clear rivulets, which, after gurgling amidst loose +stones and fragments, fall down the steeps, and are concealed and +quieted in the herbage of the vale.</p> +<p>A cottage or two peep out of the woods that hang over the +waterfalls; and on the brow of the hills above, appears a series +of eleven little chapels, uniformly built. I followed the +narrow path that leads to them, on the edge of the eminences, and +met a troop of beautiful peasants, all of the name of Anna (for +it was her saintship’s day), going to pay their devotions, +severally, at these neat white fanes. There were faces that +Guercino would not have disdained copying, with braids of hair +the softest and most luxuriant I ever beheld. Some had +wreathed it simply with flowers, other with rolls of a thin linen +(manufactured in the neighbourhood), and disposed it with a +degree of elegance one should not have expected on the cliffs of +the Tyrol.</p> +<p>Being arrived, they knelt all together at the first chapel, on +the steps, a minute or two, whispered a short prayer, and then +dispersed each to her fane. Every little building had now +its fair worshipper, and you may well conceive how much such +figures, scattered about the landscape, increased its +charms. Notwithstanding the fervour of their adorations +(for at intervals they sighed and beat their white bosoms with +energy), several bewitching profane glances were cast at me as I +passed by. Don’t be surprised, then, if I became a +convert to idolatry in so amiable a form, and worshipped St. Anna +on the score of her namesakes.</p> +<p>When got beyond the last chapel, I began to hear the roar of a +cascade in a thick wood of beech and chestnut that clothes the +steeps of a wide fissure in the rock. My ear soon guided me +to its entrance, which was marked by a shed encompassed with +mossy fragments, and almost concealed by bushes of the +caper-plant in full red bloom. Amongst these I struggled, +till, reaching a goat-track, it conducted me, on the brink of the +foaming waters, to the very depths of the cliff, whence issues a +stream which dashes impetuously down, strikes against a ledge of +rocks, and sprinkles the impending thicket with dew. Big +drops hung on every spray, and glittered on the leaves partially +gilt by the rays of the declining sun, whose mellow hues softened +the summits of the cliffs, and diffused a repose, a divine calm, +over this deep retirement, which inclined me to imagine it the +extremity of the earth, and the portal of some other region of +existence; some happy world beyond the dark groves of pine, the +caves and awful mountains, where the river takes its +source! I hung eagerly on the gulph, impressed with this +idea, and fancied myself listening to a voice that bubbled up +with the waters; then looked into the abyss and strained my eyes +to penetrate its gloom, but all was dark and unfathomable as +futurity! Awakening from my reverie, I felt the damps of +the water chill my forehead, and ran shivering out of the vale to +avoid them. A warmer atmosphere, that reigned in the meads +I had wandered across before, tempted me to remain a good while +longer, collecting the wild pinks with which they are strewed in +profusion, and a species of thyme scented like myrrh. +Whilst I was thus employed, a confused murmur struck my ear, and, +on turning towards a cliff, backed by the woods from whence the +sound seemed to proceed, forth issued a herd of goats, hundreds +after hundreds, skipping down the steeps: then followed two +shepherd boys, gamboling together as they drove their creatures +along: soon after, the dog made his appearance, hunting a stray +heifer which brought up the rear. I followed them with my +eyes till lost in the windings of the valley, and heard the +tinkling of their bells die gradually away. Now the last +blush of crimson left the summit of Sinai, inferior mountains +being long since cast in deep blue shades. The village was +already hushed when I regained it, and in a few moments I +followed its example.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 27<i>th</i>.—We pursued our journey to +Inspruck, through the wildest scenes of wood and mountain that +were ever traversed, the rocks now beginning to assume a loftier +and more majestic appearance, and to glisten with snows. I +had proposed passing a day or two at Inspruck, visiting the +castle of Ambras, and examining Count Eysenberg’s cabinet, +enriched with the rarest productions of the mineral kingdom, and +a complete collection of the moths and flies peculiar to the +Tyrol; but, upon my arrival, the azure of the skies and the +brightness of the sunshine inspired me with an irresistible wish +of hastening to Italy. I was now too near the object of my +journey, to delay possession any longer than absolutely +necessary; so, casting a transient look on Maximilian’s +tomb, and the bronze statues of Tyrolese Counts and worthies, +solemnly ranged in the church of the Franciscans, set immediately +off.</p> +<p>We crossed a broad noble street, terminated by a triumphal +arch, and were driven along the road to the foot of a mountain +waving with fields of corn, and variegated with wood and +vineyards, encircling lawns of the finest verdure, scattered over +with white houses glistening in the sun. Upon ascending the +mount, and beholding a vast range of prospects of a similar +character, I almost repented my impatience, and looked down with +regret upon the cupolas and steeples we were leaving +behind. But the rapid succession of lovely and romantic +scenes soon effaced the former from my memory.</p> +<p>Our road, the smoothest in the world (though hewn in the bosom +of rocks), by its sudden turns and windings, gave us, every +instant, opportunities of discovering new villages, and forests +rising beyond forests; green spots in the midst of wood, high +above on the mountains, and cottages perched on the edge of +promontories. Down, far below, in the chasm, amidst a +confusion of pines and fragments of stone, rages the torrent Inn, +which fills the country far and wide with a perpetual +murmur. Sometimes we descended to its brink, and crossed +over high bridges; sometimes mounted half-way up the cliffs, till +its roar and agitation became, through distance, +inconsiderable.</p> +<p>After a long ascent, the shades of evening reposing in the +valleys, and the upland snows still tinged with a vivid red, we +reached Schönberg, a village well worthy of its appellation: +and then, twilight drawing over us, began to descend. We +could now but faintly discover the opposite mountains, veined +with silver rills, when we came once more to the banks of the +Inn. This turbulent stream accompanied us all the way to +Steinach, and broke by its continual roar the stillness of the +night, which had finished half its course before we were settled +to rest.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 28<i>th</i>.—I rose early to scent the +fragrance of the vegetation, bathed in a shower which had lately +fallen, and looking around me, saw nothing but crags hanging over +crags, and the rocky shores of the stream, still dark with the +shade of the mountains. The small opening in which Steinach +is situated, terminates in a gloomy strait, scarce leaving room +for the road and the torrent, which does not understand being +thwarted, and will force its way, let the pines grow ever so +thick, or the rocks be ever so considerable.</p> +<p>Notwithstanding the forbidding air of this narrow dell, +Industry has contrived to enliven its steeps with habitations, to +raise water by means of a wheel, and to cover the surface of the +rocks with soil. By this means large crops of oats and flax +are produced, and most of the huts have gardens adjoining, which +are filled with poppies, seeming to thrive in this parched +situation.</p> +<blockquote><p>“Urit enim lini campum seges, urit +avenæ,<br /> +Urunt Lethæo perfusa papavera somno.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The farther we advanced in the dell, the larger were the +plantations which discovered themselves. For what purpose +these gaudy flowers meet with such encouragement, I had neither +time nor language to inquire; the mountaineers stuttering a +gibberish unintelligible even to Germans. Probably opium is +extracted from them; or, perhaps, if you love a conjecture, +Morpheus has transferred his abode from the Cimmerians, and has +perceived a cavern somewhere or other in the recesses of these +endless mountains. Poppies, you know, in poetic travels, +always denote the skirts of his soporific reign, and I +don’t remember a region better calculated for undisturbed +repose than the narrow clefts and gullies which run up amongst +these rocks, lost in vapours impervious to the sun, and moistened +by rills and showers, whose continual tricklings inspire a +drowsiness not easily to be resisted. Add to these +circumstances the waving of the pines, with the hum of bees +seeking their food in the crevices, and you will have as sleepy a +region as that in which Spenser and Ariosto have placed the +nodding deity.</p> +<p>At present, I must confess, I should not dislike submitting to +his empire, for a few months or years, just as it might happen, +whilst Europe is distracted by demons of revenge and war; whilst +they are strangling at Venice, and tearing each other to pieces +in unhappy London; whilst Etna and Vesuvius give signs of +uncommon wrath; America welters in her blood; and almost every +quarter of the globe is filled with carnage and +devastation. This is the moment to humble ourselves before +the God of Sleep; to beseech him to open his dusky portals; and +admit us into the repose of his retired kingdom. If you are +inclined to become a suppliant, hasten to the Tyrol, and we will +search together about the mountains, traverse the poppy-meads, +and look into every chasm and fissure that excludes daylight, in +hopes of discovering the mansion of repose. Then when we +have found this corner (or I think our search will be successful) +Morpheus will give us an approving nod, and beckon us in silence +to couch, where, soon lulled by the murmurs of the place, we +shall sink into oblivion and tranquillity. But we may as +well keep our eyes open for the present, till we have made this +important discovery, and look at the beautiful country round +Brixen, whither I arrived in the cool of the evening, and +breathed the freshness of a garden, immediately beneath my +window. The thrushes, warbling amongst its shades, saluted +me, the moment I awoke next morning.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 29<i>th</i>.—We proceeded over fertile +mountains to Bolsano. Here first I noticed the rocks cut +into terraces, thick set with melons and Indian corn; gardens of +fig-trees and pomegranates hanging over walls, clustered with +fruit; amidst them, a little pleasant cot, shaded by +cypresses. In the evening we perceived several further +indications of approaching Italy; and after sunset the Adige, +rolling its full tide between precipices, which looked awful in +the dusk. Myriads of fire-flies sparkled amongst the shrubs +on the bank. I traced the course of these exotic insects by +their blue light, now rising to the summits of the trees, now +sinking to the ground and associating with vulgar +glow-worms. We had opportunities enough to remark their +progress, since we travelled all night; such being my impatience +to reach the promised land!</p> +<p>Morning dawned just as we saw Trent dimly before us. I +slept a few hours, then set out again (July 30th), after the +heats were in some degree abated, and leaving Bergine, where the +peasants were feasting before their doors, in their holiday +dresses, with red pinks stuck in their ears instead of rings, and +their necks surrounded with coral of the same colour, we came +through a woody valley to the banks of a lake, filled with the +purest and most transparent water, which loses itself in shady +creeks, amongst hills robed with verdure from their bases to +their summits.</p> +<p>The shores present one continual shrubbery, interspersed with +knots of larches and slender almonds, starting from the +underwood. A cornice of rock runs round the whole, except +where the trees descend to the very brink, and dip their boughs +in the water.</p> +<p>It was five o’clock when I caught the sight of this +unsuspected lake, and the evening shadows stretched nearly across +it. Gaining a very rapid ascent, we looked down upon its +placid bosom, and saw several airy peaks rising above the tufted +foliage of the groves around. I quitted the contemplation +of them with regret, and, in a few hours, arrived at Borgo di +Volsugano, the scenes of the lake still present before the eye of +my fancy.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 31<i>st</i>.—My heart beat quick when I saw +some hills, not very distant, which I was told lay in the +Venetian State, and I thought an age, at least, had elapsed +before we were passing their base. The road was never +formed to delight an impatient traveller; loose pebbles and +rolling stones render it, in the highest degree, tedious and +jolting. I should not have spared my execrations, had it +not traversed a picturesque valley, overgrown with juniper, and +strewed with fragments of rock, precipitated, long since, from +the surrounding eminences, blooming with cyclamens.</p> +<p>I clambered up several of these crags,</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">“fra gli +odoriferi ginepri,”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>to gather the flowers I have just mentioned, and found them +deliciously scented. Fratillarias, and the most gorgeous +flies, many of which I here noticed for the first time, were +fluttering about and expanding their wings to the sun. +There is no describing the numbers I beheld, nor their gaily +varied colouring. I could not find in my heart to destroy +their felicity; to scatter their bright plumage and snatch them +for ever from the realms of light and flowers. Had I been +less compassionate, I should have gained credit with that +respectable corps, the torturers of butterflies; and might, +perhaps, have enriched their cabinets with some unknown +captives. However, I left them imbibing the dews of heaven, +in free possession of their native rights; and having changed +horses at Tremolano, entered at length my long-desired Italy.</p> +<p>The pass is rocky and tremendous, guarded by a fortress +(Covalo), in possession of the Empress Queen, and only fit, one +should think, to be inhabited by her eagles. There is no +attaining this exalted hold but by the means of a cord let down +many fathoms by the soldiers, who live in dens and caverns, which +serve also as arsenals, and magazines for powder; whose mysteries +I declined prying into, their approach being a little too +aërial for my earthly frame. A black vapour, tinging +their entrance, completed the terror of the prospect, which I +shall never forget.</p> +<p>For two or three leagues it continued much in the same style; +cliffs, nearly perpendicular, on both sides, and the Brenta +foaming and thundering below. Beyond, the rocks began to be +mantled with vines and gardens. Here and there a cottage +shaded with mulberries made its appearance, and we often +discovered, on the banks of the river, ranges of white buildings, +with courts and awnings, beneath which vast numbers were employed +in manufacturing silk. As we advanced, the stream gradually +widened, and the rocks receded; woods were more frequent and +cottages thicker strown.</p> +<p>About five in the evening, we had left the country of crags +and precipices, of mists and cataracts, and were entering the +fertile territory of the Bassanese. It was now I beheld +groves of olives, and vines clustering the summits of the tallest +elms; pomegranates in every garden, and vases of citron and +orange before almost every door. The softness and +transparency of the air soon told me I was arrived in happier +climates; and I felt sensations of joy and novelty run through my +veins, upon beholding this smiling land of groves and verdure +stretched out before me. A few glooming vapours, I can +hardly call them clouds, rested upon the extremities of the +landscape; and, through their medium, the sun cast an oblique and +dewy ray. Peasants were returning homeward from the +cultivated hillocks and corn-fields, singing as they went, and +calling to each other over the hills; whilst the women were +milking goats before the wickets of the cottages, and preparing +their country fare.</p> +<p>I left them enjoying it, and soon beheld the ancient ramparts +and cypresses of Bassano; whose classic appearance recalled the +memory of former times, and answered exactly the ideas I had +pictured to myself of Italian edifices. Though encompassed +by walls and turrets, neither soldiers nor custom-house officers +start out from their concealment, to question and molest a weary +traveller, for such are the blessings of the Venetian State, at +least of the Terra Firma provinces, that it does not contain, I +believe, above four regiments. Istria, Dalmatia, and the +maritime frontiers, are more formidably guarded, as they touch, +you know, the whiskers of the Turkish empire.</p> +<p>Passing under a Doric gateway, we crossed the chief part of +the town in the way to our locanda, pleasantly situated, and +commanding a level green, where people walk and eat ices by +moonlight. On the right, the Franciscan church and convent, +half hid in the religious gloom of pine and cypress; to the left, +a perspective of walls and towers rising from the turf, and +marking it, when I arrived, with long shadows; in front, where +the lawn terminates, meadow, wood, and garden run quite to the +base of the mountains.</p> +<p>Twilight coming on, this beautiful spot swarmed with people, +sitting in circles upon the grass, refreshing themselves with +cooling liquors or lounging upon the bank beneath the +towers. They looked so free and happy that I longed to be +acquainted with them; and by the interposition of a polite +Venetian (who, though a perfect stranger, showed me the most +engaging marks of attention), was introduced to a group of the +principal inhabitants. Our conversation ended in a promise +to meet the next evening at a country house about a league from +Bassano, and then to return together and sing to the praise of +Pacchierotti, their idol, as well as mine.</p> +<p>You can have no idea what pleasure we mutually found in being +of the same faith, and believing in one singer; nor can you +imagine what effects that musical divinity produced at Padua, +where he performed a few years ago, and threw his audience into +such raptures, that it was some time before they recovered. +One in particular, a lady of distinction, fainted away the +instant she caught the pathetic accents of his voice, and was +near dying a martyr to its melody. La Contessa Roberti, who +sings in the truest taste, gave me a detail of the whole +affair. “Egli ha fatto veramente un fanatismo a +Padua,” was her expression. I assured her we were not +without idolatry in England, upon his account; but that in this, +as well as in other articles of belief, there were many +abominable heretics.</p> +<p><i>August</i> 1<i>st</i>.—The whole morning not a soul +stirred who could avoid it. Those who were so active and +lively the night before, were now stretched languidly upon their +couches. Being to the full as idly disposed, I sat down and +wrote some of this dreaming epistle; then feasted upon figs and +melons; then got under the shade of the cypress, and slumbered +till evening, only waking to dine, and take some ice.</p> +<p>The sun declining apace, I hastened to my engagement at +Mosolente (for so is the villa called), placed on a verdant hill +encircled by others as lovely, and consisting of three light +pavilions connected by porticos: just such as we admire in the +fairy scenes of an opera. A vast flight of steps leads to +the summit, where Signora Roberti and her friends received me +with a grace and politeness that can never want a place in my +memory. We rambled over all the apartments of this +agreeable edifice, characterised by airiness and +simplicity. The pavement incrusted with a composition as +cool and polished as marble; the windows, doors, and balconies +adorned with silvered, iron work, commanding scenes of meads and +woodlands that extend to the shores of the Adriatic; spires and +cypresses rising above the levels; and the hazy mountains beyond +Padua, diversifying the expanse, form altogether a landscape +which the elegant imagination of Horizonti never exceeded. +Beyond the villa, a tumble of hillocks present themselves in a +variety of forms, with dips and hollows between, scattered over +with leafy trees and vines dangling in continued garlands.</p> +<p>I gazed on this rural view till it faded in the dusk; then +returning to Bassano, repaired to an illuminated hall, and had +the felicity of hearing La Signora Roberti sing the very air +which had excited such transport at Padua. As soon as she +had ended, and that I could hear no more those affecting sounds, +which had held me silent and almost breathless for several +moments, a band of various instruments stationed in the open +street began a lively symphony, which would have delighted me at +any other time; but now, I wished them a thousand leagues away, +so melancholy an impression did the air I had been listening to +leave on my mind.</p> +<p>At midnight I took leave of my obliging hosts, who were just +setting out for Padua. They gave me a thousand kind +invitations, and I hope some future day to accept them.</p> +<p><i>August</i> 2<i>nd</i>.—Our route to Venice lay +winding about the variegated plains I had surveyed from +Mosolente; and after dining at Treviso we came in two hours and a +half to Mestre, between grand villas and gardens peopled with +statues. Embarking our baggage at the last-mentioned place, +we stepped into a gondola, whose even motion was very agreeable +after the jolts of a chaise. Stretched beneath the awning, +I enjoyed at my ease the freshness of the gales, and the sight of +the waters. We were soon out of the canal of Mestre, +terminated by an isle which contains a cell dedicated to the Holy +Virgin, peeping out of a thicket from whence spire up two tall +cypresses. Its bells tingled as we passed along and dropped +some paolis into a net tied at the end of a pole stretched out to +us for that purpose.</p> +<p>As soon as we had doubled the cape of this diminutive island, +an azure expanse of sea opened to our view, the domes and towers +of Venice rising from its bosom. Now we began to +distinguish Murano, St. Michele, St. Giorgio in Alga, and several +other islands, detached from the grand cluster, which I hailed as +old acquaintances; innumerable prints and drawings having long +since made their shapes familiar. Still gliding forward, +the sun casting his last gleams across the waves, and reddening +the different towers, we every moment distinguished some new +church or palace in the city, suffused with the evening rays, and +reflected with all their glow of colouring from the surface of +the waters.</p> +<p>The air was still; the sky cloudless; a faint wind just +breathing upon the deep, lightly bore its surface against the +steps of a chapel in the island of Saint Secondo, and waved the +veil before its portal, as we rowed by and coasted the walls of +its garden, overhung with fig-trees and topped with Italian +pines. The convent discovers itself through their branches, +built in a style somewhat morisco, and level with the sea, except +where the garden intervenes.</p> +<p>Here, meditation may indulge her reveries in the midst of the +surges, and walk in cloisters, alone vocal with the whispers of +the pine. I passed this consecrated spot soon after sunset, +when daylight was expiring in the west, and when the distant +woods of Fusina were lost in the haze of the horizon.</p> +<p>We were now drawing very near the city, and a confused hum +began to interrupt the evening stillness; gondolas were +continually passing and repassing, and the entrance of the Canal +Reggio, with all its stir and bustle, lay before us. Our +gondoliers turned with much address through a crowd of boats and +barges that blocked up the way, and rowed smoothly by the side of +a broad pavement, covered with people in all dresses and of all +nations.</p> +<p>Leaving the Palazzo Pesaro, a noble structure with two rows of +arcades and a superb rustic, behind, we were soon landed before +the Leon Bianco, which being situated in one of the broadest +parts of the grand canal, commands a most striking assemblage of +buildings. I have no terms to describe the variety of +pillars, of pediments, of mouldings, and cornices, some Grecian, +others Saracenical, that adorn these edifices, of which the +pencil of Canaletti conveys so perfect an idea as to render all +verbal description superfluous. At one end of this grand +perspective appears the Rialto; the sweep of the canal conceals +the other.</p> +<p>The rooms of our hotel are as spacious and cheerful as I could +desire; a lofty hall, or rather gallery, painted with grotesque +in a very good style, perfectly clean, floored with the stucco +composition I have mentioned above, divides the house, and admits +a refreshing current of air. Several windows near the +ceiling look into this vast apartment, which serves in lieu of a +court, and is rendered perfectly luminous by a glazed arcade, +thrown open to catch the breezes. Through it I passed to a +balcony which impends over the canal, and is twined round with +plants forming a green festoon springing from two large vases of +orange-trees placed at each end. Here I established myself +to enjoy the cool, and observe, as well as the dusk would permit, +the variety of figures shooting by in their gondolas.</p> +<p>As night approached, innumerable tapers glimmered through the +awnings before the windows. Every boat had its lantern, and +the gondolas moving rapidly along were followed by tracks of +light, which gleamed and played upon the waters. I was +gazing at these dancing fires when the sounds of music were +wafted along the canals, and as they grew louder and louder, an +illuminated barge, filled with musicians, issued from the Rialto, +and stopping under one of the palaces, began a serenade, which +was clamorous and suspended all conversation in the galleries and +porticos; till, rowing slowly away, it was heard no more. +The gondoliers catching the air, imitated its cadences, and were +answered by others at a distance, whose voices, echoed by the +arch of the bridge, acquired a plaintive and interesting +tone. I retired to rest, full of the sound; and long after +I was asleep, the melody seemed to vibrate in my ear.</p> +<p><i>August</i> 3<i>rd</i>.—It was not five o’clock +before I was aroused by a loud din of voices and splashing of +water under my balcony. Looking out, I beheld the grand +canal so entirely covered with fruits and vegetables, on rafts +and in barges, that I could scarcely distinguish a wave. +Loads of grapes, peaches, and melons arrived, and disappeared in +an instant, for every vessel was in motion; and the crowds of +purchasers hurrying from boat to boat, formed one of the +liveliest pictures imaginable. Amongst the multitudes, I +remarked a good many whose dress and carriage announced something +above the common rank; and upon inquiry I found they were noble +Venetians, just come from their casinos, and met to refresh +themselves with fruit, before they retired to sleep for the +day.</p> +<p>Whilst I was observing them, the sun began to colour the +balustrades of the palaces, and the pure exhilarating air of the +morning drawing me abroad, I procured a gondola, laid in my +provision of bread and grapes, and was rowed under the Rialto, +down the grand canal, to the marble steps of S. Maria della +Salute, erected by the Senate in performance of a vow to the Holy +Virgin, who begged off a terrible pestilence in 1630. I +gazed, delighted with its superb frontispiece and dome, relieved +by a clear blue sky. To criticize columns or pediments of +the different façades, would be time lost; since one +glance upon the worst view that has been taken of them, conveys a +far better idea than the most elaborate description. The +great bronze portal opened whilst I was standing on the steps +which lead to it, and discovered the interior of the dome, where +I expatiated in solitude; no mortal appearing except an old +priest who trimmed the lamps, and muttered a prayer before the +high altar, still wrapped in shadows. The sunbeams began to +strike against the windows of the cupola just as I left the +church, and was wafted across the waves to the spacious platform +in front of St. Giorgio Maggiore, by far the most perfect and +beautiful edifice my eyes ever beheld.</p> +<p>When my first transport was a little subsided, and I had +examined the graceful design of each particular ornament, and +united the just proportion and grand effect of the whole in my +mind, I planted my umbrella on the margin of the sea, and +reclining under its shade, my feet dangling over the waters, +viewed the vast range of palaces, of porticos, of towers, opening +on every side and extending out of sight. The Doge’s +residence and the tall columns at the entrance of the place of +St. Mark, form, together with the arcades of the public library, +the lofty Campanile and the cupolas of the ducal church, one of +the most striking groups of buildings that art can boast +of. To behold at one glance these stately fabrics, so +illustrious in the records of former ages, before which, in the +flourishing times of the republic, so many valiant chiefs and +princes have landed, loaded with the spoils of different nations, +was a spectacle I had long and ardently desired. I thought +of the days of Frederic Barbarossa, when looking up the piazza of +St. Mark, along which he marched in solemn procession, to cast +himself at the feet of Alexander the Third, and pay a tardy +homage to St. Peter’s successor. Here were no longer +those splendid fleets that attended his progress; one solitary +galeass was all I beheld, anchored opposite the palace of the +Doge, and surrounded by crowds of gondolas, whose sable hues +contrasted strongly with its vermilion oars and shining +ornaments. A party-coloured multitude was continually +shifting from one side of the piazza to the other; whilst +senators and magistrates in long black robes were already +arriving to fill their respective charges.</p> +<p>I contemplated the busy scene from my peaceful platform, where +nothing stirred but aged devotees creeping to their devotions; +and, whilst I remained thus calm and tranquil, heard the distant +buzz and rumour of the town. Fortunately a length of waves +rolled between me and its tumults; so that I ate my grapes, and +read Metastasio, undisturbed by officiousness or curiosity. +When the sun became too powerful, I entered the nave, and +applauded the genius of Palladio.</p> +<p>After I had admired the masterly structure of the roof and the +lightness of its arches, my eyes naturally directed themselves to +the pavement of white and ruddy marble, polished, and reflecting +like a mirror the columns which rise from it. Over this I +walked to a door that admitted me into the principal quadrangle +of the convent, surrounded by a cloister supported on Ionic +pillars, beautifully proportioned. A flight of stairs opens +into the court, adorned with balustrades and pedestals, +sculptured with elegance truly Grecian. This brought me to +the refectory, where the chef-d’œuvre of Paul +Veronese, representing the marriage of Cana in Galilee, was the +first object that presented itself. I never beheld so +gorgeous a group of wedding garments before; there is every +variety of fold and plait that can possibly be imagined. +The attitudes and countenances are more uniform, and the guests +appear a very genteel, decent sort of people, well used to the +mode of their times and accustomed to miracles.</p> +<p>Having examined this fictitious repast, I cast a look on a +long range of tables covered with very excellent realities, which +the monks were coming to devour with energy, if one might judge +from their appearance. These sons of penitence and +mortification possess one of the most spacious islands of the +whole cluster, a princely habitation, with gardens and open +porticos, that engross every breath of air; and, what adds not a +little to the charms of their abode, is the liberty of making +excursions from it, whenever they have a mind.</p> +<p>The republic, wisely jealous of ecclesiastical influence, +connives at these amusing rambles, and, by encouraging the +liberty of monks and churchmen, prevents their appearing too +sacred and important in the eyes of the people, who have frequent +proofs of their being mere flesh and blood, and that of the +frailest composition. Had the rest of Italy been of the +same opinion, and profited as much by Fra Paolo’s maxims, +some of its fairest fields would not, at this moment, lie +uncultivated, and its ancient spirit might have revived. +However, I can scarcely think the moment far distant, when it +will assert its natural prerogatives, awake from its ignoble +slumber, and look back upon the tiara, with all its host of idle +fears and scaring phantoms, as the offspring of a distempered +dream. Scarce a sovereign supports any longer this vain +illusion, except the old woman of Hungary, and as soon as her dim +eyes are closed we shall probably witness great events. <a +name="citation156"></a><a href="#footnote156" +class="citation">[156]</a></p> +<p>Full of prophecies and bodings, I moved slowly out of the +cloisters; and, gaining my gondola, arrived, I know not how, at +the flights of steps which lead to the Redenptore, a structure so +simple and elegant, that I thought myself entering an antique +temple, and looked about for the statue of the God of Delphi, or +some other graceful divinity. A huge crucifix of bronze +soon brought me to times present.</p> +<p>The charm being thus dissolved, I began to perceive the shapes +of rueful martyrs peeping out of the niches around, and the bushy +beards of Capuchin friars wagging before the altars. These +good fathers had decorated their church, according to custom, +with orange and citron trees, placed between the pilasters of the +arcades; and on grand festivals, it seems, they turn the whole +church into a bower, strew the pavement with leaves, and festoon +the dome with flowers.</p> +<p>I left them occupied with their plants and their +devotions. It was midday, and I begged to be rowed to some +woody island, where I might dine in shade and tranquillity. +My gondoliers shot off in an instant; but, though they went at a +very rapid rate, I wished to fly faster, and getting into a bark +with six oars, swept along the waters, soon left the Zecca and +San Marco behind; and, launching into the plains of shining sea, +saw turret after turret, and isle after isle, fleeting before +me. A pale greenish light ran along the shores of the +distant continent, whose mountains seemed to catch the motion of +my boat, and to fly with equal celerity.</p> +<p>I had not much time to contemplate the beautiful effects on +the waters—the emerald and purple hues which gleamed along +their surface. Our prow struck, foaming, against the walls +of the Carthusian garden, before I recollected where I was, or +could look attentively around me. Permission being +obtained, I entered this cool retirement, and putting aside with +my hands the boughs of fig-trees and pomegranates, got under an +ancient bay, near which several tall pines lift themselves up to +the breezes. I listened to the conversation they held, with +a wind just flown from Greece, and charged, as well as I could +understand this airy language, with many affectionate +remembrances from their relations on Mount Ida.</p> +<p>I reposed amidst bay leaves, fanned by a constant air, till it +pleased the fathers to send me some provisions, with a basket of +fruit and wine. Two of them would wait upon me, and ask ten +thousand questions about Lord George Gordon, and the American +war. I, who was deeply engaged with the winds, and fancied +myself hearing these rapid travellers relate their adventures, +wished my interrogators in purgatory, and pleaded ignorance of +the Italian language. This circumstance extricated me from +my difficulties, and procured me a long interval of repose.</p> +<p>The rustling of the pines had the same effect as the murmurs +of other old story-tellers, and I slept undisturbed till the +people without, in the boat (who wondered not a little, I dare +say, what the deuce was become of me within), began a sort of +chorus in parts, full of such plaintive modulation, that I still +thought myself under the influence of a dream, and, half in this +world and half in the other, believed, like the heroes of Fingal, +that I had caught the music of the spirits of the hill.</p> +<p>When I was thoroughly convinced of the reality of these +sounds, I moved towards the shore from whence they proceeded: a +glassy sea lay full before me; no gale ruffled the expanse; every +breath was subsided, and I beheld the sun go down in all its +sacred calm. You have experienced the sensations this +moment inspires; imagine what they must have been in such a +scene, and accompanied with a melody so simple and +pathetic. I stepped into my boat, and instead of +encouraging the speed of the gondoliers, begged them to abate +their ardour, and row me lazily home. They complied, and we +were near an hour reaching the platform before the ducal palace, +thronged as usual with a variety of nations. I mixed a +moment with the crowd; then directed my steps to the great +mosque,—I ought to say the church of St. Mark; but really +its cupolas, slender pinnacles, and semicircular arches, have so +oriental an appearance, as to excuse this appellation. I +looked a moment at the four stately coursers of bronze and gold +that adorn the chief portal, and then took in, at one glance, the +whole extent of the square, with its towers and standards. +So noble an assemblage never met my eyes. I envied the good +fortune of Petrarch, who describes, in one of his letters, a +tournament held in this princely opening.</p> +<p>Many are the festivals which have been here celebrated. +When Henry the Third left Poland to mount the throne of France, +he passed through Venice, and found the republic waiting to +receive him in their famous square, which by means of an awning +stretched from the balustrades of opposite palaces, was +metamorphosed into a vast saloon, sparkling with artificial +stars, and spread with the richest carpets of the East. +What a magnificent idea! The ancient Romans, in the zenith +of power and luxury, never conceived a greater. It is to +them the Venetians are indebted for the hint, since we read of +the Coliseo and Pompey’s theatre being sometimes covered +with transparent canvas, to defend the spectators from the heat +or sudden rain, and to tint the scene with soft agreeable +colours, like the hues of the declining sun.</p> +<p>Having enjoyed the general perspective of the piazza, I began +to enter into particulars, and examine the bronze pedestals of +the three standards before the great church, designed by +Sansovino in the true spirit of the antique, and covered with +relievos, at the same time bold and elegant. It is also to +this celebrated architect we are indebted for the stately +façade of the Proccuratie nuove, which forms one side of +the square, and presents an uninterrupted series of arcades and +marble columns exquisitely wrought. Opposite this +magnificent range appears another line of palaces, whose +architecture, though far removed from the Grecian purity of +Sansovino, impresses veneration, and completes the pomp of the +view.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p159b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Grand Canal, Venice" +title= +"Grand Canal, Venice" + src="images/p159s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>There is something strange and singular in the tower, which +rises distinct from the smooth pavement of the square, a little +to the left as you stand before the chief entrance of St. +Mark’s. The design is rather barbarous, and +terminates in uncouth and heavy pyramids; yet in spite of these +defects it struck me with awe. A beautiful building called +the Loggetta, and which serves as a guard-house during the +convocation of the grand council, decorates its base. +Nothing can be more enriched, more finished than this structure; +which, though far from diminutive, is in a manner lost at the +foot of the Campanile. This enormous mass seems to promise +a very long duration, and will probably carry down the fame of +St. Mark and his Lion to the latest posterity. Both appear +in great state towards its summit, and have nothing superior, but +an archangel perched on the topmost pinnacle, and pointing to the +skies. The dusk prevented my remarking the various +sculptures with which the Loggetta is crowded.</p> +<p>Crossing the ample space between this elegant edifice and the +ducal palace, I passed through a labyrinth of pillars and entered +the principal court, of which nothing but the great outline was +visible at so late an hour. Two reservoirs of bronze, rich +with sculptured foliage, diversify the area. In front a +magnificent flight of steps presents itself, by which the +senators ascend through vast and solemn corridors, which lead to +the interior of the edifice. The colossal statues of Mars +and Neptune guard the entrance, and have given the appellation of +<i>scala dei geganti</i> to the steps below, which I mounted not +without respect; and, leaning against the balustrades, formed +like the rest of the building of the rarest marbles, adored the +tutelary divinities.</p> +<p>My devotions were shortly interrupted by one of the sbirri, or +officers of police, who take their stands after sunset before the +avenues of the palace, and who told me the gates were upon the +point of being closed. So, hurrying down the steps, I left +half my vows unpaid and a million of delicate sculptures +unexplored; for every pilaster, every frieze, every entablature, +is incrusted with porphyry, verde antique, or some other curious +marble, carved into as many grotesque wreaths and mouldings as we +admire in the loggios of Raffaello. The various portals, +the strange projections, the length of cloisters; in short, the +noble irregularity of these imperial piles, delighted me beyond +idea; and I was sorry to be forced to abandon them so soon, +especially as the twilight, which bats and owls love not better +than I do, enlarged every portico, lengthened every colonnade, +and increased the dimensions of the whole, just as imagination +desired. This faculty would have had full scope had I but +remained an hour longer. The moon would then have gleamed +upon the gigantic forms of Mars and Neptune, and discovered the +statues of ancient heroes emerging from the gloom of their +niches.</p> +<p>Such an interesting assemblage of objects, such regal scenery, +with the reflection that half their ornaments once contributed to +the decoration of Athens, transported me beyond myself. The +sbirri thought me distracted. True enough, I was stalking +proudly about like an actor in an ancient Grecian tragedy, +lifting up his hands to the consecrated fanes and images around, +expecting the reply of his attendant chorus, and declaiming the +first verses of Œdipus Tyrannus.</p> +<p>These fits of enthusiasm were hardly subsided, when I issued +from the gates of the palace into the great square, which +received a faint gleam from its casinos and palaces, just +beginning to be lighted up, and become the resort of pleasure and +dissipation. Numbers were walking in parties upon the +pavement; some sought the shade of the porticos with their +favourites; others were earnestly engaged in conversation, and +filled the gay illuminated apartments, where they resorted to +drink coffee and sorbet, with laughter and merriment. A +thoughtless giddy transport prevailed; for, at this hour, +anything like restraint seems perfectly out of the question; and +however solemn a magistrate or senator may appear in the day, at +night he lays up wig and robe and gravity to sleep together, runs +intriguing about in his gondola, takes the reigning sultana under +his arm, and so rambles half over the town, which grows gayer and +gayer as the day declines.</p> +<p>Many of the noble Venetians have a little suite of apartments +in some out-of-the-way corner, near the grand piazza, of which +their families are totally ignorant. To these they skulk in +the dusk, and revel undisturbed with the companions of their +pleasures. Jealousy itself cannot discover the alleys, the +winding passages, the unsuspected doors, by which these retreats +are accessible. Many an unhappy lover, whose mistress +disappears on a sudden with some fortunate rival, has searched +for her haunts in vain. The gondoliers themselves, though +the prime managers of intrigue, are scarce ever acquainted with +these interior cabinets. When a gallant has a mind to +pursue his adventures with mystery, he rows to the piazza, orders +his bark to wait, meets his goddess in the crowd, and vanishes +from all beholders. Surely, Venice is the city in the +universe best calculated for giving scope to the observations of +a devil upon two sticks. What a variety of lurking-places +would one stroke of his crutch uncover!</p> +<p>Whilst the higher ranks were solacing themselves in their +casinos, the rabble were gathered in knots round the strollers +and mountebanks, singing and scaramouching in the middle of the +square. I observed a great number of Orientals amongst the +crowd, and heard Turkish and Arabic muttering in every +corner. There the Sclavonian dialect predominated; there +some Grecian jargon, almost unintelligible. Had St. +Mark’s church been the wondrous tower, and its piazza the +chief square, of the city of Babylon, there could scarcely have +been a greater confusion of languages.</p> +<p>The novelty of the scene afforded me no small share of +amusement, and I wandered about from group to group, and from one +strange exotic to another, asking and being asked innumerable +ridiculous questions, and settling the politics of London and +Constantinople, almost in the same breath. This instant, I +found myself in a circle of grave Armenian priests and jewellers; +the next amongst Greeks and Dalmatians, who accosted me with the +smoothest compliments, and gave proof that their reputation for +pliability and address was not ill-founded.</p> +<p>I was entering into a grand harum-scarum discourse with some +Russian Counts or Princes, or whatever you please, just landed +with dwarfs, and footmen, and governors, and staring, like me, +about them, when Mad. de R. arrived, to whom I had the happiness +of being recommended. She very obligingly presented me to +some of the most distinguished of the Venetian families at their +great casino, which looks into the piazza, and consists of five +or six rooms, fitted up in a gay flimsy taste, neither rich nor +elegant, where were a great many lights, and a great many ladies +negligently dressed, their hair falling very freely about them, +and innumerable adventures written in their eyes. The +gentlemen were lolling upon the sofas or lounging about the +apartments.</p> +<p>The whole assembly seemed upon the verge of gaping, till +coffee was carried round. This magic beverage diffused a +temporary animation; and, for a moment or two, conversation moved +on with a degree of pleasing extravagance; but the flash was soon +dissipated, and nothing remained save cards and stupidity.</p> +<p>In the intervals of shuffling and dealing, some talked over +the affairs of the grand council with less reserve than I +expected; and two or three of them asked some feeble questions +about the late tumults in London: as much, however, through +indolence and forgetfulness, I should conjecture, as from any +political motive, for I don’t believe all those wise +stories, which some travellers have propagated, of Venetian +subtlety and profound silence. They might have reigned +during the dark periods of the republic, but at this moment the +veil is rent in fifty places; and without any wonderful +penetration, the debates of the senate are discoverable. +There doubtless was a time when, society being greatly divided, +and little communication subsisting among the nobles, secrets +were invariably kept; but since the establishment of casinos, +which the ladies rule, where chit-chat and tittle-tattle are for +ever going forwards, who can preserve a rigorous taciturnity upon +any subject in the universe? It was one o’clock +before all the company were assembled, and I left them at three, +still dreaming over their coffee and card-tables. Trieze is +their favourite game: <i>uno</i>, <i>due</i>, <i>tre</i>, +<i>quatro</i>, <i>cinque</i>, <i>fante</i>, <i>cavallo</i> are +eternally repeated; the apartments echoed no other sound.</p> +<p>No lively people could endure such monotony; yet I have been +told the Venetians are remarkably spirited, and so eager in the +pursuit of amusement as hardly to allow themselves any +sleep. Some, for instance, after declaiming in the Senate, +walking an hour in the square, and fidgeting about from one +casino to another till morning dawns, will get into a gondola, +row across the Lagunes, take the post to Mestre or Fusina, and +jumble over craggy pavements to Treviso, breakfast in haste, and +rattle back again as if the devil were charioteer: by eleven the +party is restored to Venice, resumes robe and periwig, and goes +to council.</p> +<p>This may be very true, and yet I will never cite the Venetians +as examples of vivacity. Their nerves, unstrung by disease +and the consequences of early debaucheries, impede all lively +flow of spirits in its course, and permit at best but a few +moments of a false and feverish activity. The approaches of +rest, forced back by an immoderate use of coffee, render them, +too, weak and listless, and the facility of being wafted from +place to place in a gondola, adds not a little to their +indolence. In short, I can scarcely regard their Eastern +neighbours in a more lazy light; and am apt to imagine that +instead of slumbering less than other people, they pass their +lives in one perpetual doze.</p> +<p><i>August</i> 4<i>th</i>.—The heats were so excessive in +the night, that I thought myself several times on the point of +suffocation, tossed about like a wounded fish, and dreamt of the +devil and Senegal. Towards sunrise, a faint breeze restored +me to life and reason. I slumbered till late in the day, +and the moment I was fairly awake, ordered my gondolier to row +out to the main ocean, that I might plunge into its waves, and +hear and see nothing but waters around me.</p> +<p>We shot off, wound amongst a number of sheds, shops, churches, +casinos, and palaces, growing immediately out of the canals, +without any apparent foundation. No quay, no terrace, not +even a slab is to be seen before the doors; one step brings you +from the hall into the bark, and the vestibules of the stateliest +structures lie open to the waters, and level with them. I +observed several, as I glided along, supported by rows of +well-proportioned pillars, adorned with terms and vases, beyond +which the eye generally discovers a grand court, and sometimes a +garden.</p> +<p>In about half an hour, we had left the thickest cluster of +isles behind, and, coasting the Place of St. Mark opposite to San +Giorgio Maggiore, whose elegant frontispiece was painted on the +calm waters, launched into the blue expanse of sea, from which +rise the Chartreuse and two or three other woody islands. I +hailed the spot where I had passed such a happy visionary +evening, and nodded to my friends the pines.</p> +<p>A few minutes more brought me to a dreary, sun-burnt shore, +stalked over by a few Sclavonian soldiers, who inhabit a castle +hard by, go regularly to an ugly unfinished church, and from +thence, it is to be hoped, to paradise; as the air of their +barracks is abominable, and kills them like blasted sheep.</p> +<p>Forlorn as this island appeared to me, I was told it was the +scene of the Doge’s pageantry at the feast of the +Ascension; and the very spot to which he sails in the +<i>Bucentaur</i>, previously to wedding the sea. You have +heard enough, and if ever you looked into a show-box, seen full +sufficient of this gaudy spectacle, without my enlarging upon the +topic. I shall only say, that I was obliged to pursue, +partly, the same road as the nuptial procession, in order to +reach the beach, and was broiled and dazzled accordingly.</p> +<p>At last, after traversing some desert hillocks, all of a hop +with toads and locusts (amongst which English heretics have the +honour of being interred), I passed under an arch, and suddenly +the boundless plains of ocean opened to my view. I ran to +the smooth sands, extending on both sides out of sight, cast off +my clothes, and dashed into the waves, which were coursing one +another with a gentle motion, and breaking lightly on the +shores. The tide rolled over me as I lay floating about, +buoyed up by the water, and carried me wheresoever it +listed. It might have borne me far out into the main, and +exposed me to a thousand perils, before I had been aware, so +totally was I abandoned to the illusion of the moment. My +ears were filled with murmuring undecided sounds; my limbs, +stretched languidly on the surge, rose or sunk just as it swelled +or subsided. In this passive, senseless state I remained, +till the sun cast a less intolerable light, and the fishing +vessels, lying out in the bay at a great distance, spread their +sails and were coming home.</p> +<p>Hastening back over the desert of locusts, I threw myself into +the gondola; and, no wind or wave opposing, was soon wafted +across to those venerable columns, so conspicuous in the Place of +St. Mark. Directing my course immediately to the ducal +palace, I entered the grand court, ascending the Giant’s +stairs, and examined at my leisure its bas-reliefs. Then, +taking the first guide that presented himself, I was shown along +several cloisters and corridors, sustained by innumerable +pillars, into the state apartments, which Tintoret and Paolo +Veronese have covered with the triumphs of their country.</p> +<p>A swarm of lawyers filled the Sala del Maggior Consiglio, and +one of the first advocates in the republic was pleading with all +his might, before a solemn row of senators. The eyes and +ears of the assembly seemed equally affected. Clouds of +powder and volleys of execrations issuing every instant from the +disputants, I got out of their way; and was led from hall to +hall, and from picture to picture, with exemplary +resignation. To be sure, I was heartily tired, but behaved +with decency, having never once expressed how much I wished the +chefs-d’œuvre I had been contemplating, less smoky +and numerous.</p> +<p>At last, I reached once more the colonnades at the entrance, +and caught the sea-breeze in the open porticos which front San +Giorgio Maggiore. The walls are covered in most places with +grim visages sculptured in marble, whose mouths gape for +accusations, and swallow every lie that malice and revenge can +dictate. I wished for a few ears of the same kind, +dispersed about the Doge’s residence, to which one might +apply one’s own, and catch some account of the mysteries +within; some little dialogue between the Three Inquisitors, or +debate in the Council of Ten.</p> +<p>This is the tribunal which holds the wealthy nobility in +continual awe; before which they appear with trembling and +terror: and whose summons they dare not disobey. Sometimes, +by way of clemency, it condemns its victims to perpetual +imprisonment in close, stifling cells, between the leads and +beams of the palace; or, unwilling to spill the blood of a +fellow-citizen, generously sinks them into dungeons, deep under +the canals which wash its foundations; so that, above and below, +its majesty is contaminated by the abodes of punishment. +What other sovereign could endure the idea of having his +immediate residence polluted with tears? or revel in his halls, +conscious that many of his species were consuming their hours in +lamentations above his head, and that but a few beams separated +him from the scene of their tortures? How ever gaily +disposed, could one dance with pleasure on a pavement, beneath +which lie damp and gloomy caverns, whose inhabitants waste away +by painful degrees, and feel themselves whole years +a-dying? Impressed by these terrible ideas, I could not +regard the palace without horror, and wished for the strength of +a thousand antediluvians, to level it with the sea, lay open the +secret recesses of punishment, and admit free gales and sunshine +into every den.</p> +<p>When I had thus vented my indignation, I repaired to the +statue of Neptune and invoked it to second my enterprise. +Once upon a time no deity had a freer hand at razing +cities. His execution was renowned throughout all +antiquity, and the proudest monarchs deprecated the wrath of +ΚΡΕΙΩΝ +ΕΝΟΣΙΧΘΩΝ. +But, like the other mighty ones of ancient days, his reign is +past and his trident disregarded. Formerly any wild spirit +found favour in the eyes of fortune, and was led along the career +of glory to the deliverance of captives and the extirpation of +monsters; but, in our degenerate times, this easy road to fame is +no longer open, and the means of producing such signal events +perplexed and difficult.</p> +<p>Abandoning, therefore, the sad tenants of the Piombi to their +fate, I left the courts, and stepping into my bark, was rowed +down a canal over which the lofty walls of the palace cast a +tremendous shade. Beneath these fatal waters the dungeons I +have also been speaking of are situated. There the wretches +lie marking the sound of the oars, and counting the free passage +of every gondola. Above, a marble bridge, of bold majestic +architecture, joins the highest part of the prisons to the secret +galleries of the palace; from whence criminals are conducted over +the arch to a cruel and mysterious death. I shuddered +whilst passing below; and believe it is not without cause, this +structure is named PONTE DEl SOSPIRI. Horrors and dismal +prospects haunted my fancy upon my return. I could not dine +in peace, so strongly was my imagination affected; but snatching +my pencil, I drew chasms and subterraneous hollows, the domain of +fear and torture, with chains, racks, wheels, and dreadful +engines, in the style of Piranesi. About sunset I went and +refreshed myself with the cool air and cheerful scenery of the +Fondamenti nuovi, a vast quay or terrace of white marble, which +commands the whole series of isles, from San Michele’s to +Torcello,</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">“That rise and +glitter o’er the ambient tide.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Nothing can be more picturesque than the groups of towers and +cupolas which they present, mixed with flat roofs and low +buildings, and now and then a pine or cypress. Afar off, a +little woody isle, called Il Deserto, swells from the ocean and +diversifies its expanse.</p> +<p>When I had spent a delightful half-hour in viewing the distant +isles, M. de. B. accompanied me to the Mendicanti, one of +the four conservatorios, which give the best musical education +conceivable to near one hundred young women. You may +imagine how admirably those of the Mendicanti in particular are +taught, since their establishment is under Bertoni’s +direction, who breathes around him the very soul of grace and +harmony. The chapel in which we sat to hear the oratorio +was dark and solemn; a screen of lofty pillars, formed of black +marble and highly polished, excluded the glow of the western sky, +and reflected the lamps which burn perpetually before the +altar. Every tribune was thronged with people, whose +profound silence showed them worthy auditors of Bertoni’s +compositions. Here were no cackling old women, or groaning +Methodists, such as infest our English churches, and scare +one’s ears with hoarse coughs accompanied by the naso +obligato. All were still and attentive, imbibing the +plaintive notes of the voices with eagerness; and scarce a +countenance but seemed deeply affected with David’s +sorrows, the subject of the performance. I sat retired in a +solitary tribune, and felt them as my own. Night came on +before the last chorus was sung, and I still seem to hear its +sacred melody.</p> +<p><i>August</i> 18<i>th</i>.—It rains; the air is +refreshed and I have courage to resume my pen, which the sultry +weather had forced to lie dormant so long. I like this odd +town of Venice, and find every day some new amusement in rambling +about its innumerable canals and alleys. Sometimes I go and +pry about the great church of Saint Mark, and examine the variety +of marbles and mazes of delicate sculpture with which it is +covered. The cupola, glittering with gold, mosaic, and +paintings of half the wonders in the Apocalypse, never fails +transporting me to the period of the Eastern empire. I +think myself in Constantinople, and expect Michael Paleologus +with all his train. One circumstance alone prevents my +observing half the treasures of the place, and holds down my +fancy, just springing into the air: I mean the vile stench which +exhales from every recess and corner of the edifice, and which +all the altars cannot subdue.</p> +<p>When oppressed by this noxious atmosphere, I run up the +Campanile in the piazza, and seating myself amongst the pillars +of the gallery, breathe the fresh gales which blow from the +Adriatic; survey at my leisure all Venice beneath me, with its +azure sea, white sails, and long tracts of islands shining in the +sun. Having thus laid in a provision of wholesome breezes, +I brave the vapours of the canals, and venture into the most +curious and murky quarters of the city, in search of Turks and +Infidels, that I may ask as many questions as I please about +Damascus and Suristan, those happy countries which nature has +covered with roses.</p> +<p>Asiatics find Venice very much to their liking, and all those +I conversed with allowed its customs and style of living had a +good deal of conformity to their own. The eternal lounging +in coffee-houses and sipping of sorbets, agrees perfectly well +with the inhabitants of the Ottoman empire, who stalk about here +in their proper dresses, and smoke their own exotic pipes, +without being stared and wondered at, as in most other European +capitals. Some few of these Orientals are communicative and +enlightened; but, generally speaking, they know nothing beyond +the rule of three, and the commonest transactions of mercantile +affairs.</p> +<p>The Greeks are by far a more lively generation, still +retaining their propensity to works of genius and +imagination. Metastasio has been lately translated into +their modern jargon, and some obliging papa or other has had the +patience to put the long-winded romance of Clelia into a Grecian +dress. I saw two or three of these volumes exposed on a +stall, under the grand arcades of the public library, as I went +one day to admire the antiques in its vestibules.</p> +<p>Whilst I was intent upon my occupation, a little door, I never +should have suspected, flew open, and out popped Monsieur de V., +from a place where nothing, I believe, but broomsticks and +certain other utensils were ever before deposited. This +gentleman, the most active investigator of Homer since the days +of the good bishop of Thessalonica, bespatters you with more +learning in a minute than others communicate in half a year; +quotes Arabic, Greek, Hebrew, Syriac, etc., with a formidable +fluency; and drove me from one end of the room to the other with +all the thunder of erudition. Syllables fell thicker than +hail, and in an instant I found myself so weighed down and +covered, that I prayed, for mercy’s sake, to be introduced, +by way of respite, to a Laplander whom he leads about as a +curiosity; a poor, harmless, good sort of a soul, calm and +indifferent, who has acquired the words of several Oriental +languages to perfection: ideas he has, in none.</p> +<p>We went together to view a collection of medals in one of the +Gradanigo palaces, and two or three inestimable volumes, filled +with paintings that represent the dress of the ancient Venetians; +so that I had an opportunity of observing to perfection all the +Lapland nothingness of my companion. What a perfect +void! Cold and silent as the polar regions, not one passion +ever throbbed in his bosom; not one bright ray of fancy ever +glittered in his mind; without love or anger, pleasure or pain, +his days fleet smoothly along: all things considered, I must +confess I envied such comfortable apathy.</p> +<p>After having passed a peaceful hour in dreaming over the +medals and rarities, M. de V. was for conducting me to the +Armenian convent, but I begged to be excused, and went to S. +Giovanni e Paolo’s, a church ever celebrated in the annals +of painting, since it contains that masterpiece of Titian, +“The Martyrdom of St. Peter.” It being a +festival, the huge Gothic pillars were covered with red damask, +and the shrines of saints and worthies glimmered with +tapers. The dim chapels on each side the nave received a +feeble light, and discovered the tombs of ancient Doges, and the +equestrian statues of many a doughty General. I admired +them all, but liked nothing so much as a snug bas-relief I found +out in a corner, which represents St. Mark and some other good +souls a-prosing, whilst his lion and the old serpent squabble and +scratch in the foreground of the sculpture, like cat and dog by +the fireside. After dinner, when the shadows of domes and +palaces began lengthening across the waves, I rowed out</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">“On the clear +hyaline, the glassy sea,”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>to observe the last sunbeams fade on the tufted gardens of the +Giudecca, and to contemplate the distant Euganean hills, once the +happiest region of Italy; where wandering nations enjoyed the +simplicity of a pastoral life, long before the arrival of +Antenor. In those ancient times, deep forests and extensive +pastures covered the shores <a name="citation170a"></a><a +href="#footnote170a" class="citation">[170a]</a> of the Adriatic, +and innumerable flocks hung on the brow of the mountains. +This golden period ended upon the incursion of the Trojans and +Heneti; who, led by Antenor, drove away the unfortunate savages, +and possessed themselves of their habitations. <a +name="citation170b"></a><a href="#footnote170b" +class="citation">[170b]</a> The form of the hillocks is +varied and picturesque, and the sun, sinking behind them, +suffuses their summits with tints of the brightest orange. +Scarce one evening have I failed to remark the changeful scenery +of the clouds, and to fill my mind with recollections of primeval +days and happier ages. Night generally surprises me in the +midst of my reveries; I return, lulled in my gondola by the +murmur of waters, pass about an hour with M. de R., whose +imagination and sensibility almost equal your own; then, retire +to sleep, and dream of the Euganeans.</p> +<h2>LETTER IX.</h2> +<p><i>August</i> 27<i>th</i>.—I am just returned from +visiting the isles of Burano, Torcello, and Mazorbo, distant +about five miles from Venice. To these amphibious spots the +Romans, inhabitants of eastern Lombardy, fled from the ravine of +Attila; and, if we may believe Cassiodorus, there was a time when +they presented a beautiful appearance. Beyond them, on the +coast of the Lagunes, rose the once populous city of Altina, with +its six stately gates, which Dandolo mentions. <a +name="citation170c"></a><a href="#footnote170c" +class="citation">[170c]</a> Its neighbourhood was scattered with +innumerable villas and temples, composing altogether a prospect +which Martial compares to Baiæ:</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">“Æmula +Baianis Altini littora villis.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>But this agreeable scene, like so many others, is passed +entirely away, and has left nothing, except heaps of stones and +misshapen fragments, to vouch for its former magnificence. +Two of the islands, Costanziaco and Amiano, that are imagined to +have contained the bowers and gardens of the Altinatians, have +sunk beneath the waters; those which remain are scarcely worthy +to rise above their surface.</p> +<p>Though I was persuaded little was left to be seen above +ground, I could not deny myself the imaginary pleasure of +treading a corner of the earth once so adorned and cultivated; +and of walking over the roofs, perhaps, of concealed halls and +undiscovered palaces. M. de R., to whom I communicated my +ideas, entered at once into the scheme; hiring therefore a +<i>peiotte</i> we took some provisions and music (to us equally +necessaries of life), and launched into the canal, between St. +Michael and Murano.</p> +<p>The waves coursed each other with violence, and dark clouds +hung over the grand sweep of northern mountains, whilst the west +smiled with azure and bright sunshine. Thunder rolled +awfully at a distance, and those white and greyish birds, the +harbingers of storms, flitted frequently before our bark. +For some moments we were in doubt whether to proceed; but as we +advanced by a little dome in the Isle of St. Michael, shaped like +an ancient temple, the sky cleared, and the ocean subsiding by +degrees, soon presented a tranquil expanse, across which we were +smoothly wafted. Our instruments played several delightful +airs, that called forth the inhabitants of every island, and held +them silent, as if spell-bound, on the edge of their quays and +terraces, till we were out of hearing.</p> +<p>Leaving Murano far behind, Venice and its world of turrets +began to sink on the horizon, and the low desert isles beyond +Mazorbo to lie stretched out before us. Now we beheld vast +wastes of <a name="citation171"></a><a href="#footnote171" +class="citation">[171]</a> purple flowers, and could distinguish +the low hum of the insects which hover above them; such was the +silence of the place. Coasting these solitary fields, we +wound amongst several serpentine canals, bordered by gardens of +figs and pomegranates, with neat Indian-looking inclosures of +cane and reed: an aromatic plant clothes the margin of the +waters, which the people justly dignify with the title of marine +incense. It proved very serviceable in subduing a musky +odour, which attacked us the moment we landed, and which proceeds +from serpents that lurk in the hedges. These animals, say +the gondoliers, defend immense treasures which lie buried under +the ruins. Woe to those who attempt invading them, or +prying too cautiously about!</p> +<p>Not choosing to be devoured, we left many a mount of fragments +unnoticed, and made the best of our way to a little green, free +from weeds or adders, bounded on one side by a miserable shed, +decorated with the name of the Podesta’s residence, and on +the other by a circular church. Some remains of tolerable +antique sculpture are enchased in the walls; and the dome, +supported by pillars of a smooth Grecian marble, though uncouth +and ill-proportioned, impresses a sort of veneration, and +transports the fancy to the twilight glimmering period when it +was raised.</p> +<p>Having surveyed what little was visible, and given as much +career to our imaginations as the scene inspired, we walked over +a soil composed of crumbling bricks and cement to the cathedral; +whose arches, turned on the ancient Roman principle, convinced us +that it dates as high as the sixth or seventh century.</p> +<p>Nothing can be well more fantastic than the ornaments of this +structure, formed from the ruins of the Pagan temples of Altina, +and incrusted with a gilt mosaic, like that which covers our +Edward the Confessor’s tomb. The pavement, composed +of various precious marbles, is richer and more beautiful than +one could have expected, in a place where every other object +savours of the grossest barbarism. At the farther end, +beyond the altar, appears a semicircular niche, with seats like +the gradines of a diminutive amphitheatre; above rise the quaint +forms of the apostles, in red, blue, green, and black mosaic, and +in the midst of the goodly group a sort of marble chair, cool and +penitential enough, where St. Lorenzo Giustiniani sat to hold a +provincial council, the Lord knows how long ago! The fount +for holy water stands by the principal entrance, fronting this +curious recess, and seems to have belonged to some place of +Gentile worship. The figures of horned imps cling round its +sides, more devilish, more Egyptian, than any I ever +beheld. The dragons on old china are not more whimsical: I +longed to have it filled with bats’ blood, and to have sent +it by way of present to the sabbath; I can assure you it would +have done honour to their witcheries. The sculpture is not +the most delicate, but I cannot say a great deal about it, as but +little light reaches the spot where it is fixed. Indeed, +the whole church is far from luminous, its windows being narrow +and near the roof, with shutters composed of blocks of marble, +which nothing but the last whirlwind, one should think, could +move from their hinges.</p> +<p>By the time we had examined every nook and corner of this +singular edifice, and caught perhaps some small portion of +sanctity by sitting in San Lorenzo’s chair, dinner was +prepared in a neighbouring convent, and the nuns, allured by the +sound of our flutes and oboes, peeped out of their cells and +showed themselves by dozens at the grate. Some few +agreeable faces and interesting eyes enlivened the dark +sisterhood; all seemed to catch a gleam of pleasure from the +music; two or three of them, probably the last immured, let fall +a tear, and suffered the recollection of the world and its +profane joys to interrupt for a moment their sacred +tranquillity.</p> +<p>We stayed till the sun was low, and the breezes blew cool from +the ocean, on purpose that they might listen as long as possible +to a harmony which seemed to issue, as the old abbess expressed +herself, from the gates of paradise ajar. A thousand +benedictions consecrated our departure; twilight came on just as +we entered the bark and rowed out upon the waves, agitated by a +fresh gale, but fearing nothing under the protection of St. +Margherita, whose good wishes our music had secured.</p> +<p>In two hours we were safely landed at the Fondamenti nuovi, +and went immediately to the Mendicanti, where they were +performing the oratorio of Sisera. The composer, a young +man, had displayed great fire and originality in this +performance; and a knowledge of character seldom found in the +most celebrated masters. The supplication of the thirsty +chieftain, and Jael’s insinuating arts and pious treachery, +are admirably expressed; but the agitation and bodily slumbers +which precede his death, are imagined in the highest strain of +genius. The terror and agony of his dreams made me start, +more than once, from my seat; and all the horrors of his +assassination seemed full before me, so fatal was the sound of +the instrument, so just the conduct of the harmony.</p> +<p>Too much applause cannot be given to the Marchetti, who sang +the part of Sisera, and seconded the composer’s ideas by +the most feeling and spirited execution. There are few +things I shall regret more at Venice, than this +conservatorio. Whenever I am musically given, I fly to it, +and hear the most striking finales in Bertoni’s and +Anfosse’s operas, as long and often as I please.</p> +<p>The sight of the orchestra still makes me smile. You +know, I suppose, it is entirely of the female gender, and that +nothing is more common than to see a delicate white hand +journeying across an enormous double bass, or a pair of roseate +cheeks puffing, with all their efforts, at a French horn. +Some that are grown old and Amazonian, who have abandoned their +fiddles and their lovers, take vigorously to the kettledrum; and +one poor limping lady, who had been crossed in love, now makes an +admirable figure on the bassoon.</p> +<p>Good-night! I am quite exhausted with composing a chorus +for these same Amazonians. The poetry I send you, which +seems to be some of the most picturesque and nervous an Italian +ever produced. The music takes up too much room to travel +at present. One day or other, perhaps, we may hear it in +some dark grove, when the moon is eclipsed and nature in +alarm.</p> +<p>This is not the last letter you would receive from Venice, was +I not hurrying to Lucca, where Pacchierotti sings next week, in +the opera of Quinto Fabio, of all operas the most worthy to +excuse such a musical fanaticism. Adieu.</p> +<h2>LETTER X.</h2> +<p><i>September</i> 4<i>th</i>.—I was sorry to leave +Venice, and regretted my peaceful excursions upon the Adriatic, +when the Euganean hills were lost in a golden haze, and the sun +cast his departing gleam across the waters. No bright rays +illuminated my departure, but the coolness and perfume of the air +made some amends for their absence.</p> +<p>About an hour’s rowing from the isle of Saint Giorgio in +Alga, brought us to the shores of Fusina, right opposite the +opening where the Brenta mixes with the sea. This river +flows calmly between banks of verdure, crowned by poplars, with +vines twining round every stalk, and depending from tree to tree +in beautiful festoons. Beds of mint and flowers clothe the +brink of the stream, except where a tall growth of reeds and +osiers lift themselves to the breezes. I heard their +whispers as we glided along; and had I been alone might have told +you what they said to me; but such aërial oracles must be +approached in solitude. The morning continued to lower as +we advanced; scarce a wind ventured to breathe; all was still and +placid as the surface of the Brenta. No sound struck my +ears except the bargemen hallooing to open the sluices, and +deepen the water.</p> +<p>As yet I had not perceived an habitation; no other objects +than green inclosures and fields of Turkish corn, shaded with +vines and poplars, met my eyes wherever I turned them.</p> +<p>Our navigation, the tranquil streams and cultivated banks, in +short the whole landscape, had a sort of Chinese cast, which led +me into Quang-Si and Quang-Tong. The variety of canes, +reeds, and blooming rushes, shooting from the slopes, confirmed +my fancies, and when I beheld the yellow nenupha expanding its +broad leaves to the current, I thought of the Tao-Sé, and +venerated one of the chief ingredients in their beverage of +immortality. Landing where this magic vegetation appeared +most luxuriant, I cropped the flowers; but searched in vain for +the kernels, which, according to the doctrine of the Bonzes, +produce such wonderful effects. Though I was deceived in +this pursuit, I gained, however, in another. The bank upon +which I had sprung presented a continual walk of level turf, +surrounded by vines, concealing the trees which supported them, +and forming the most delightful bowers. Under these +garlands I passed, and gathered the ripe clusters which dangled +around, convinced that Noah had discovered a far superior +beverage to that of the Tao-Sé. Whilst I was thus +agreeably employed, it began to rain, and the earth to exhale a +fresh, reviving odour, highly grateful to one who had been so +long confined to walls and waters. After breathing nothing +but the essence of the canals and the flavours of the Rialto, +after the jingling of bells and brawls of the gondoliers, imagine +how agreeable it was to scent the perfume of clover, to tread a +springing herbage, and listen in silence to the showers pattering +amongst the leaves. I staid so long amidst the vines, that +it grew late before we rowed by the Mira, a village of palaces, +whose courts and gardens, as magnificent as statues, terraces, +and vases can make them, compose a grand, though far from a rural +prospect.</p> +<p>Not being greatly delighted with such scenery, we stayed no +longer than our dinner required, and reached the Dolo an hour +before sunset. Passing the great sluices, whose gates +opened with a thundering noise, we continued our course along the +peaceful Brenta, winding its broad full stream through +impenetrable copses, surmounted by tall waving poplars. Day +was about to close when we reached Fiesso; and it being a misty +evening, I could scarcely distinguish the pompous façade +of the Pisani palace. That where we supped looks upon a +broad mass of foliage, which I contemplated with pleasure as it +sank in the dusk.</p> +<p>We walked a long while under a pavilion stretched before the +entrance, breathing the freshness of the wood after the shower, +and hearing the drops trickle down the awning above our +heads. The Galuzzi sang some of her father +Ferandini’s compositions, with a fire, an energy, an +expression, that one moment raised me to a pitch of heroism, and +the next dissolved me in tears. Her cheek was flushed with +inspiration, her eyes glistened; the whole tone of her +countenance was like that of a person rapt and inspired. I +forgot both time and place whilst she was breathing forth such +celestial harmony. The night stole imperceptibly away, and +morning dawned before I awoke from my trance. I don’t +recollect ever to have passed an evening, which every +circumstance conspired so much to improve. In general, my +musical pleasures suffer terrible abatements from the phlegm and +stupidity of my neighbourhood, but here every one seemed to catch +the flame, and to listen with reciprocal delight. The +C— threw quick around her the glancing fires of genius: +and, what with the song of the Galuzzi, and those intellectual +meteors, I scarcely knew to what element I was transported; and +doubted for several moments whether I had not fallen into a +celestial dream. I loathed the light of the morning star, +which summoned me to depart; and, if I may express myself so +poetically,</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">“Cast many a +longing, ling’ring look behind.”</p> +</blockquote> +<h2>LETTER XI.</h2> +<p><i>September</i> 5<i>th</i>.—The glow and splendour of +the rising sun, for once in my life, drew little of my +attention. I was too deeply plunged in my reveries, to +notice the landscape which lay before me; and the walls of Padua +presented themselves some time ere I was aware. At any +other moment, how sensibly should I have been affected with their +appearance! how many ideas of Antenor and his Trojans, would have +thronged into my memory! but now I regarded the scene with +indifference, and passed many a palace, and many a woody garden, +with my eyes riveted to the ground. The first object that +appeared, upon lifting them up, was a confused pile of spires and +cupolas, dedicated to blessed St. Anthony, who betook himself to +the conversion of fish, after the heretics would lend no ear to +his discourses.</p> +<p>You are too well apprised of the veneration I have always +entertained for this ingenious preacher, to doubt that I +immediately repaired to his shrine and offered up my little +orisons before it. Mine was a disturbed spirit, and +required all the balm of St. Anthony’s kindness to appease +it. Perhaps you will say I had better gone to bed, and +applied myself to my sleepy friend, the pagan divinity. +’Tis probable that you are in the right; but I could not +retire to rest without venting some portion of effervescence in +sighs and supplications. The nave was filled with decrepit +women and feeble children, kneeling by baskets of vegetables and +other provisions; which, by good Anthony’s interposition, +they hoped to sell advantageously in the course of the day. +Beyond these, nearer the choir, and in a gloomier part of the +edifice, knelt a row of rueful penitents, smiting their breasts, +and lifting their eyes to heaven. Further on, in front of +the dark recess, where the sacred relics are deposited, a few +desperate, melancholy sinners lay prostrate.</p> +<p>To these I joined myself, and fell down on the steps before +the shrine. The sunbeams had not yet penetrated into this +religious quarter; and the only light it received proceeded from +the golden lamps, which hang in clusters round the +sanctuary. A lofty altar, decked with superstitious +prodigality, conceals the holy pile from profane glances. +Those who are profoundly touched with its sanctity may approach, +and walking round, look through the crevices of the tomb, and rub +their noses against the identical bones of St. Anthony, which, it +is observed, exude a balsamic odour. But supposing a +traveller ever so heretical, I would advise him by no means to +neglect this pilgrimage; since every part of the recess he visits +is decorated with the most exquisite sculptures. Sansovino +and the best artists have vied with each other in carving the +alto relievos of the arcade, which, for design and execution, +would do honour to the sculptors of antiquity.</p> +<p>Having observed these objects with much less exactness than +they merited, and acted perhaps too capital a part amongst the +devotees, I hastened to the inn, luckily hard by, and one of the +best I am acquainted with. Here I soon fell asleep in +defiance of sunshine. ’Tis true my slumbers were not +a little agitated. St. Anthony had been deaf to my prayer, +and I still found myself a frail, infatuated mortal.</p> +<p>At five I got up; we dined, and afterwards, scarcely knowing, +nor much caring, what became of us, we strolled to the great hall +of the town; an enormous edifice, as large as that of +Westminster, but free from stalls, or shops, or nests of +litigation. The roof, one spacious vault of brown timber, +casts a solemn gloom, which was still increased by the lateness +of the hour, and not diminished by the wan light, admitted +through the windows of pale blue glass. The size and shape +of this colossal chamber, the coving of the roof, with beams like +perches for the feathered race, stretching across it, and, above +all, the watery gleams that glanced through the casements, +possessed my fancy with ideas of Noah’s ark, and almost +persuaded me I beheld that extraordinary vessel. The +representation one sees of it in Scheutzer’s “Physica +Sacra” seems to be formed upon this very model, and for +several moments I indulged the chimera of imagining myself +confined within its precincts. How willingly, could I but +choose my companions, would I encounter a deluge, to float whole +years instead of months upon the waves!</p> +<p>We remained walking to and fro in the ark, till the twilight +faded into total darkness. It was then full time to retire, +as the guardian of the place was by no means formed to divine our +diluvian ideas.</p> +<h2>LETTER XII.</h2> +<p><i>September</i> 6<i>th</i>.—At Padua, I was too near +the last and one of the most celebrated abodes of Petrarch, to +make the omission of a visit excusable; had I not been in a +disposition to render such a pilgrimage peculiarly +pleasing. I set forwards from Padua after dinner, so as to +arrive some time before sunset. Nothing could be finer than +the day; and I had every reason to promise myself a serene and +delicious hour, before the sun might go down. I put the +poems of Petrarch into my pocket; and, as my road lay chiefly +through lanes, planted on either side with mulberries and +poplars, from which vines hung dangling in careless festoons, I +found many a bowering shade, where I sat, at intervals, to +indulge my pensive humour over some ejaculatory sonnet; as the +pilgrim, on his journey to Loretto, reposes here and there, to +offer his prayers and meditations to the Virgin. In little +more than an hour and half, I found myself in the midst of the +Euganean hills, and, after winding almost another hour amongst +them, I got, before I was well aware, into the village of +Arqua. Nothing can be more sequestered or obscure than its +situation. It had rather a deserted appearance; several of +its houses being destitute of inhabitants, and crumbling into +ruins. Two or three of them, however, exhibited ancient +towers, richly mantled with ivy, and surrounded with cypress, +that retained the air of having once belonged to persons of +consideration. Their present abandoned state nourished the +melancholy idea with which I entered the village. Could one +approach the last retreat of genius, and not look for some glow +of its departed splendour?</p> +<blockquote><p>“Dear to the pensive eye of fond regret,<br +/> +Is light still beaming from a sun that’s set.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The residence of Petrarch at Arqua is said to have drawn +thither from Padua the society of its more enlightened +citizens. This city, whilst Petrarch lived in its +neighbourhood, was engaged in rebellion against the Venetians; +and Francis de Carrara, the head of it, went often to Arqua, to +consult Petrarch; when he found himself obliged to sue to Venice +for peace. The poet was indeed deputed, upon this occasion, +his ambassador to the state; as being a person whose character +and credit were most likely to appease its wrath. His +success in this embassy might, perhaps, have been some recompense +for an employment he accepted with much regret, as it forced him +from his beloved retirement. In a letter to one of his +friends, written about this period of his life, he says: “I +pass the greatest part of the year in the country, which I have +always preferred to cities: I read; I write; I think: thus, my +life and my pleasures are like those of youth. I take pains +to hide myself; but I cannot escape visits: it is an honour which +displeases and wearies me. In my little house on the +Euganean hills, I hope to pass my few remaining days in +tranquillity, and to have always before my eyes my dead, or my +absent, friends.” I was musing on these circumstances +as I walked along the village, till a venerable old woman, seated +at her door with her distaff in her hand, observing me, soon +guessed the cause of my excursion; and offered to guide me to +Petrarch’s house. The remainder of my way was short, +and well amused by my guide’s enthusiastic expressions of +veneration for the poet’s memory; which, she assured me, +she felt but in common with the other inhabitants of the +village. When we came to the door of the house, we met the +peasant, its present possessor. The old woman, recommending +the stranger and his curiosity to her neighbour’s good +offices, departed. I entered immediately, and ran over +every room, which the peasant assured me, in confirmation of what +I before learnt from better authority, were preserved, as nearly +as they could be, in the state Petrarch had left them. The +house and premises, having unfortunately been transmitted from +one enthusiast of his name to another, no tenants have been +admitted, but under the strictest prohibition of making any +change in the form of the apartments, or in the memorial relics +belonging to the place: and, to say the truth, everything I saw +in it, save a few articles of the peasant’s furniture in +the kitchen, has an authentic appearance. Three of the +rooms below stairs are particularly shown, and they have nothing +in them but what once belonged to the poet. In one, which I +think they call his parlour, is a very antique cupboard; where, +it is supposed, he deposited some precious part of his literary +treasure. The ceiling is painted in a grotesque +manner. A niche in the wall contains the skeleton of his +favourite cat, with a Latin epigram beneath, of Petrarch’s +composition. It is good enough to deserve being copied; but +the lateness of the hour did not allow me time. A little +room, beyond this, is said to have been his study: the walls of +it, from top to bottom, are scribbled over with sonnets, and +poetical eulogies on Petrarch, ancient and modern: many of which +are subscribed by persons, of distinguished rank and talents, +Italians as well as strangers. Here, too, is the +bard’s old chair, and on it is displayed a great deal of +heavy, ornamental carpentry; which required no stretch of faith +to be believed the manufacture of the fourteenth century. +You may be sure, I placed myself in it, with much veneration, and +the most resigned assent to Mrs. Dobson’s relation: that +Petrarch, sitting in this same chair, was found dead in his +library, with one arm leaning on a book. Who could sit in +Petrarch’s chair, void of some effect? I rose not +from it without a train of pensive sentiments and soft +impressions; which I ever love to indulge. I was now led +into a larger room, behind that I first saw; where, it is likely +enough, the poet, according to the peasant’s information, +received the visits of his friends. Its walls were adorned +with landscapes and pastoral scenes, in such painting as Petrarch +himself might, and is supposed to have executed. Void of +taste and elegance, either in the design or colouring, they bear +some characteristic marks of the age to which they are, with no +improbability, assigned; and, separate from the merit of +exhibiting repeatedly the portraits of Petrarch and Laura, are a +valuable sketch of the rude infancy of the art, where it rose +with such hasty vigour to perfection. Having seen all that +was left unchanged in this consecrated mansion, I passed through +a room, said to have been the bard’s bed-room, and stepped +into the garden, situated on a green slope, descending directly +from the house. It is now rather an orchard than a garden; +a spot of small extent, and without much else to recommend it, +but that it once was the property of Petrarch. It is not +pretended to have retained the form in which he left it. An +agreeably wild and melancholy kind of view, which it commands +over the Euganean hills, and which I beheld under the calm glow +of approaching sunset, must often, at the same moment, have +soothed the poet’s anxious feelings, and hushed his active +imagination, as it did my own, into a delicious repose. +Having lingered here till the sun was sunk beneath the horizon, I +was led a little way farther in the village, to see +Petrarch’s fountain. Hippocrene itself could not have +been more esteemed by the poet, than this, his gift, by all the +inhabitants of Arqua. The spring is copious, clear, and of +excellent water; I need not say with what relish I drank of +it. The last religious act in my little pilgrimage was a +visit to the church-yard; where I strewed a few flowers, the +fairest of the season, on the poet’s tomb; and departed for +Padua by the light of the moon.</p> +<h2>LETTER XIII.</h2> +<p><i>September</i> 7<i>th</i>.—Immediately after +breakfast, we went to St. Justina’s, a noble temple, +designed by Palladio, and worthy of his reputation. The +dimensions are vast, and the equal distribution of light and +ornament truly admirable. Upon my first entrance, the long +perspective of domes above, and chequered marble below, struck me +with surprise and pleasure. I roved about the spacious +aisles for several minutes, then sat down under the grand cupola, +and admired the beautiful symmetry of the building.</p> +<p>Both extremities of the cross aisles are terminated by altar +and tombs of very remote antiquity, adorned with uncouth +sculptures of the Evangelists, supported by wreathed columns of +alabaster, round which, to my no small astonishment, four or five +gawky fellows were waddling on their knees, persuaded, it seems, +that this strange devotion would cure the rheumatism, or any +other aches with which they were afflicted. You can have no +conception of the ridiculous attitudes into which they threw +themselves; nor the difficulty with which they squeezed along, +between the middle column of the tomb and those which surrounded +it. No criminal in the pillory ever exhibited a more rueful +appearance, no swine ever scrubbed itself more fervently than +these infatuated lubbers.</p> +<p>I left them hard at work, taking more exercise than had been +their lot for many a day; and, mounting into the organ gallery, +listened to Turini’s <a name="citation182"></a><a +href="#footnote182" class="citation">[182]</a> music with +infinite satisfaction. The loud harmonious tones of the +instrument filled the whole edifice; and, being repeated by the +echoes of its lofty domes and arches, produced a wonderful +effect. Turini, aware of this circumstance, adapts his +compositions with great intelligence to the place, and makes his +slave, the organ, send forth the most affecting, long-protracted +sounds, which languish in the air, and are some time +a-dying. Nothing can be more original than his style. +Deprived of sight by an unhappy accident, in the flower of his +days, he gave up his entire soul to music, and scarcely exists +but through its medium.</p> +<p>When we came out of St. Justina’s, the azure of the sky +and the softness of the air inclined us to think of some +excursion. Where could I wish to go, but to the place in +which I had been so delighted? Besides, it was proper to +make the C. another visit, and proper to see the Pisani palace, +which happily I had before neglected. All these proprieties +considered, M. de R. accompanied me to Fiesso.</p> +<p>The sun was just sunk when we arrived; the whole ether in a +glow, and the fragrance of the arched citron alleys +delightful. Beneath them I walked in the cool, till the +Galuzzi began once more her enchanting melody. She sung +till the moon tempted the fascinating G—a and myself to +stray on the banks of the Brenta. A profound calm reigned +upon the woods and the waters, and moonlight added serenity to a +scene naturally peaceful. We listened to the faint murmurs +of the leaves, and the distant rural noises, observing the gleams +that quivered on the river, and discovered a mutual delight in +contemplating the same objects.</p> +<p>We supped late: before the Galuzzi had repeated the airs which +had most affected me, morning began to dawn.</p> +<p><i>September</i> 8<i>th</i>.—It was evening, and I was +still asleep; not in a tranquil slumber, but at the mercy of +fantastic visions. The want of sound repose had thrown me +into a feverish impatient mood, that was alone to be subdued by +harmony. Scarcely had I snatched some slight refreshment, +before I flew to the great organ at St. Justina’s, but +tried, this time, to compose myself in vain. M. de R., +finding my endeavours unsuccessful, proposed, by way of diverting +my attention, that we should set out immediately for one of the +Euganean hills about five or seven miles from Padua, at the foot +of which some antique baths had very lately been +discovered. I consented, without hesitation, little +concerned whither I went, or what happened to me, provided the +scene was often shifted. The lanes and enclosures we passed +on our road to the hills, appeared in all the gaiety that +verdure, flowers, and sunshine could give them. But my +pleasures were overcast, and I beheld every object, however +cheerful, through a dusky medium. Deeply engaged in +conversation, distance made no impression; and we beheld the +meadows, over which the ruins are scattered, lie before us, when +we still imagined ourselves several miles away. Had I but +enjoyed my former serenity, how agreeably would such a landscape +have affected my imagination! How lightly should I not have +run over the herbage, and viewed the irregular shrubby hills, +diversified with clumps of cypress, verdant spots, and pastoral +cottages, such as Zuccarelli loved to paint! No scene could +be more smiling than this which here presented itself, or answer, +in a fuller degree, the ideas I had formed of Italy.</p> +<p>Leaving our carriage at the entrance of the mead, we traversed +its flowery surface, and shortly perceived among the grass an +oblong basin, incrusted with pure white marble. Most of the +slabs are large and perfect, apparently brought from Greece, and +still retaining their polished smoothness. The pipes to +convey the waters are still discernible; in short, the whole +ground-plan may be easily traced. Nothing more remains: the +pillars and arcades are fallen, and one or two pedestals alone +vouch for their former existence. Near the principal bath, +we remarked the platforms of several circular apartments, paved +with mosaic, in a neat simple taste, far from inelegant. +Weeds have not yet sprung up amongst the crevices; and the +universal freshness of the ruin shows that it has not been long +exposed.</p> +<p>Theodoric is the prince to whom these structures are +attributed; and Cassiodorus, the prime chronicler of the country, +is quoted to maintain the supposition. My spirit was too +much engaged to make any learned parade, or to dispute upon a +subject, which I abandon, with all its glories, to calmer and +less impatient minds.</p> +<p>Having taken a cursory view of the ruins in the mead, we +ascended the hill which borders upon it, and surveyed a prospect +of the same nature, though in a more lovely and expanded style, +than that which I beheld from Mosolente. Padua crowns the +landscape, with its towers and cupolas rising from a continued +grove; and, from the drawings I have seen, I should conjecture +that Damascus presents somewhat of a similar appearance.</p> +<p>Taking our eyes off this extensive prospect, we turned them to +the fragments beneath our feet. The walls appear plainly +composed of the <i>opus reticulatum</i> so universal in the +environs of Naples. A sort of terrace, with the bases of +columns circling the mount, leads me to imagine here were +formerly arcades and porticos, for enjoying the view; for on the +summit I could trace no vestiges of any considerable structure, +and am therefore inclined to conclude, that nothing more than a +colonnade surrounded the hill, leading perhaps to some slight +fane, or pavilion, for the recreation of the bathers below.</p> +<p>A profusion of aromatic flowers covered the slopes, and +exhaled additional perfumes, as the sun declined, and the still +hour approached, which was wont to spread over my mind a divine +composure, and to restore the tranquillity I might have lost in +the day. But now it diffused in vain its reviving coolness, +and I remained, if possible, more sad and restless than +before.</p> +<p>To produce such a revolution, divine how I must have been +fascinated! and be not surprised at my repeating all the way that +pathetic sonnet of Petrarch:</p> +<blockquote><p>“O giorno, o ora, o ultimo momento,<br /> +O stelle congiurate a ’mpoverirme!<br /> +O fido sguardo, or che volei tu dirme,<br /> +Partend’ io, per non esser mai contento?”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><i>September</i> 9<i>th</i>.—You may imagine how I felt +when the hour of leaving Padua drew near. It happened to be +a high festival, and mass celebrated at the grand church of St. +Anthony, with more than ordinary splendour. The music +drawing us thither, we found every chapel twinkling with lights, +and the choir filled with a vapour of incense. Through its +medium several cloth of gold figures discovered themselves, +ministering before the altar, and acting their parts with a +sacred pomposity, wonderfully imposing. I attended very +little to their functions, but the plaintive tones of the voices +and instruments, so consonant with my own feelings, melted me +into tears, and gave me, no doubt, the exterior of exalted +piety. Guadazni sang amongst the other musicians, but +seemed to be sinking apace into devotion and obscurity. The +ceremony ended, I took leave of M. de R. with sincere regret, and +was driven away to Vicenza. Of my journey I scarce know any +more than that the evening was cold and rainy, that I shivered +and was miserable.</p> +<p><i>September</i> 10<i>th</i>.—The morning being +overcast, I went, full of the spirit of Æschylus, to the +Olympic Theatre, and vented my evil temper in reciting some of +the most tremendous verses of his furies. The august front +of the scene, and its three grand streets of fanes and palaces, +inspired me with the loftiest sentiments of the Grecian drama; +but the dubious light admitted through windows, scarce visible +between the rows of statues which crown the entablature, sunk me +into fits of gloom and sadness. I mused a long while in the +darkest and most retired recess of the edifice, fancying I had +penetrated into a real and perfect monument of antiquity, which +till this moment had remained undiscovered. It is +impossible to conceive a structure more truly classical, or to +point out a single ornament which has not the best antique +authority. I am not in the least surprised that the +citizens of Vicenza enthusiastically gave in to Palladio’s +plan, and sacrificed large sums to erect so beautiful a +model. When finished, they procured, at a vast expense, the +representation of a Grecian tragedy, with its chorus and majestic +decorations. You can enter into the rapture of an artist, +who sees his fondest vision realized; and can easily conceive how +it was, that Palladio esteemed this compliment the most +flattering reward. After I had given scope to the fancies +which the scene suggested, we set out for Verona.</p> +<p>The situation is striking and picturesque. A long line +of battlement walls, flanked by venerable towers, mounts the hill +in a grand irregular sweep, and incloses many a woody garden and +grove of slender cypress. Beyond rises an awful assembly of +mountains; opposite to which a fertile plain presents itself, +decked with all the variety of meads and thickets, olive-grounds +and vineyards.</p> +<p>Amongst these our road kept winding till we entered the city +gate, and passed (the post knows how many streets and alleys in +the way!) to the inn, a lofty, handsome-looking building; but so +full that we were obliged to take up with an apartment on its +very summit, open to all the winds, like the magic chamber +Apuleius mentions, and commanding the roofs of half Verona. +Here and there a pine shot up amongst them, and the shady hills, +terminating the perspective with their walls and turrets, formed +a romantic scene.</p> +<p>Placing our table in a balcony, to enjoy the prospect with +greater freedom, we feasted upon fish from the Lago di Garda, and +the delicious fruits of the country,—grapes worthy of +Canaan, and peaches such as Eden itself might have gloried in +producing. Thus did I remain, solacing myself, breathing +the cool air, and remarking the evening tints of the +mountains. Neither the paintings of Count this, nor the +antiquities of the Marquis t’other, could tempt me from my +aërial situation; I refused hunting out the famous Paolos +scattered over the town, and sat like the owl in the +Georgics,</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">“Solis et occasom +servans de culmine summo.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Twilight drawing on, I left my haunt, and stealing downstairs, +inquired for a guide to conduct me to the amphitheatre, perhaps +the most entire monument of Roman days. The people of the +house, instead of bringing me a quiet peasant, officiously +delivered me up to a professed antiquary, one of those diligent +plausible young men, to whom, God help me! I have so capital an +aversion. This sweet spark displayed all his little +erudition, and flourished away upon cloacas and vomitoriums with +eternal fluency. He was very profound in the doctrine of +conduits, and knew to admiration how the filthiness of all the +amphitheatre was disposed of; but perceiving my inattention, and +having just grace enough to remark that I chose one side of the +street when he preferred the other, and sometimes trotted through +despair in the kennel, he made me a pretty bow, I threw him +half-a-crown, and seeing the ruins before me, traversed a gloomy +arcade and emerged alone into the arena. A smooth turf +covers its surface, from which a spacious row of gradines rises +to a majestic elevation. Four arches, with their simple +Doric ornament, alone remain of the grand circle which once +lifted itself above the highest seats of the amphitheatre; and, +had it not been for Gothic violence, this part of the structure +would have equally resisted the ravages of time. Nothing +can be more exact than the preservation of the gradines; not a +block has sunk from its place, and whatever trifling injuries +they may have received have been carefully repaired. The +two chief entrances are rebuilt with solidity and closed by +portals, no passage being permitted through the theatre except at +public shows and representations, sometimes still given in the +arena.</p> +<p>When I paced slowly across it, silence reigned undisturbed +amongst the awful ruins, and nothing moved, save the weeds and +grasses which skirt the walls and tremble with the faintest +breeze.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p187b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Verona and Venice—the Ducal Palace" +title= +"Verona and Venice—the Ducal Palace" + src="images/p187s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>I liked the idea of being thus shut in on every side by +endless gradines, abandoned to a stillness and solitude I was so +peculiarly disposed to taste. Throwing myself upon the +grass in the middle of the arena, I enjoyed the freedom of my +situation; and pursued the last tracks of light, as they faded +behind the solitary arches, which rose above the rest. Red +and fatal were the tints of the western sky; the wind blew chill +and hollow, and something more than common seemed to issue from +the withering herbage on the walls. I started up, fled +through a dark arcade, where water falls drop by drop, and +arrived, panting, in the great square before the ruins. +Directing my steps across it, I reached an ancient castle, once +inhabited by the Scaligeri, sovereigns of Verona. Hard by +appeared the ruins of a triumphal arch, which most antiquarians +ascribe to Vitruvius, enriched with delicate scrolls and flowery +ornaments. I could have passed half-an-hour very agreeably +in copying these elegant sculptures; but night covering them with +her shades, I returned home to the Corso; where the outlines of +several palaces, designed by Michel San Michele, attracted my +attention. But it was too dusky to examine their +details.</p> +<p><i>September</i> 11<i>th</i>.—Traversing once more the +grand piazza, and casting a last glance upon the amphitheatre, we +passed under a lofty arch which terminates the perspective, and +left Verona by a wide, irregular, picturesque street, commanding, +whenever you look back, a striking scene of towers, cypress, and +mountains.</p> +<p>The country, between this beautiful town and Mantua, presents +one continued grove of dwarfish mulberries, among which start up +innumerable barren hills. Now and then a knot of poplars +diversify their craggy summits, and sometimes a miserable +shed. Mantua itself rises out of a morass formed by the +Mincio, whose course, in most places, is so choked up with reeds +as to be scarcely discernible. It requires a creative +imagination to discover any charms in such a prospect, and a +strong prepossession not to be disgusted with the scene where +Virgil was born. For my own part, I approached this +neighbourhood with proper deference, and began to feel the God, +but finding no tufted tree on which I could suspend my lyre, or +verdant bank which invited to repose, I abandoned poetry and +entered the city in despair.</p> +<p>The beating of drums, and sight of German whiskers, finished +what croaking frogs and stagnant ditches had begun. Every +classic idea being scared by such sounds and such objects, I +dined in dudgeon, and refused stirring out till late in the +evening.</p> +<p>A few paces from the town stand the remains of the palace +where the Gonzagas formerly resided. This I could not +resist looking at, and was amply rewarded. Several of the +apartments, adorned by the bold pencil of Julio Romano, merit the +most exact attention; and the grotesques, with which the stucco +ceilings are covered, equal the celebrated loggios of the +Vatican. I don’t recollect ever having seen these +elegant designs engraven, and believe it would be perfectly worth +the pains of some capital artist to copy them. Being in +fresco upon damp neglected walls, each year diminishes their +number, and every winter moulders some beautiful figure away.</p> +<p>The subjects, mostly from antique fables, are treated with all +the purity and gracefulness of Raphael. Amongst others the +story of Polypheme is very conspicuous. Acis appears, +reclined with his beloved Galatea, on the shore of the ocean, +whilst their gigantic enemy, seated above on the brow of +Ætna, seems by the paleness and horrors of his countenance +to meditate some terrible revenge.</p> +<p>When it was too late to examine the paintings any longer, I +walked into a sort of court, or rather garden, which had been +decorated with fountains and antique statues. Their +fragments still remain amongst weeds and beds of flowers, for +every corner of the place is smothered with vegetation. +Here nettles grow thick and rampant: there, tuberoses and +jessamine cling around mounds of ruins, which during the elegant +reign of the Gonzagas led to grottos and subterranean apartments, +concealed from vulgar eyes, and sacred to the most refined +enjoyments. I gathered a tuberose that sprang from a shell +of white marble, once trickling with water, now half filled with +mould, and carrying it home, shut myself up for the rest of the +night, inhaled its perfume, and fell a-dreaming.</p> +<p><i>September</i> 12<i>th</i>.—A shower having fallen, +the air was refreshed, and the drops still glittered upon the +vines, through which our road conducted us. Three or four +miles from Mantua the scene changed to extensive grounds of rice, +and meads of the tenderest verdure watered by springs, whose +frequent meanders gave to the whole prospect the appearance of a +vast green carpet shot with silver. Further on we crossed +the Po, and passing Guastalla, entered a woody country full of +inclosures and villages; herds feeding in the meadows, and +poultry parading before every wicket.</p> +<p>The peasants were busied in winnowing their corn; or, mounted +upon the elms and poplars, gathering the rich clusters from the +vines that hang streaming in braids from one branch to +another. I was surprised to find myself already in the +midst of the vintage, and to see every road crowded with carts +and baskets bringing it along; you cannot imagine a pleasanter +scene.</p> +<p>Round Reggio it grew still more lively, and on the other side +of that agreeable little city, I remarked many a cottage that +Tityrus might have inhabited, with its garden and willow hedge in +flower, swarming with bees. Our road, the smoothest +conceivable, led us, perhaps too rapidly, by so cheerful a +landscape. I caught glimpses of fields and copses as we +fled along, that could have afforded me amusement for hours, and +orchards on gentle acclivities, beneath which I could have walked +till evening. The trees literally bent under their loads of +fruit, and innumerable ruddy apples lay scattered upon the +ground—</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">“Strata jacent +passim sus quæque sub arbore poma.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Beyond these rich masses of foliage, to which the sun lent +additional splendour, at the utmost extremity of the pastures, +rose the irregular ridge of the Apennines, whose deep blue +presented a striking contrast to the glowing colours of the +foreground. I fixed my eyes on the chain of distant +mountains, and indulged, as usual, my conjectures of what was +going forward on their summits; of those who tended goats on the +edge of the precipice; traversed, at this moment, the dark +thickets of pines, and passed their lives in yonder sheds, +contented and unknown. Such were the dreams that filled my +fancy, and kept it incessantly employed till it was dusk, and the +moon began to show herself; the same moon which, but a few days +ago, had seen me so happy at Fiesso. Her soft light reposed +upon the meads, that had been newly mown, and the shadows of tall +poplars were cast aslant them. I left my carriage, and +running into the dim haze, abandoned myself to the recollection +it inspired. During an hour, I kept continually flying +forwards; bounding from enclosure to enclosure like a hunted +antelope, and forgetting where I was or whither I was +going. One sole idea filled my mind, and led me on with +such heedless rapidity, that I stumbled over stones and bushes, +and entangled myself on every wreath of vines which opposed my +progress. At length, having wandered where chance or the +wildness of my fancy led, till the lateness of the evening +alarmed me, I regained the chaise as fast as I could, and arrived +between ten and eleven at the place of my destination.</p> +<p><i>September</i> 13<i>th</i>.—Having but a moment or two +at liberty, I hurried early in the morning to the palace, and +entered an elegant Ionic court, with arcades of the whitest +stone, through which I caught peeps of a clear blue sky and +groves of cypresses. Some few good paintings still adorn +the apartments, but the best part of the collection has been +disposed of, for a hundred thousand sequins, amongst which was +that inestimable picture, the Notte of Corregio. An +excellent copy remained and convinced me the original was not +undeservedly celebrated. None but the pencil of Corregio +ever designed such graceful angels, nor imagined such a pearly +dawn to cast around them. Ten thousand times, I dare say, +has the subject of the Nativity been treated, and as many +painters have failed in rendering it so pleasing. The break +of day, the first smiles of the celestial infant, and the truth, +the simplicity of every countenance, cannot be too warmly +admired. In the other rooms, no picture gave me more +pleasure than Jacob’s Vision by Domenico Feti. I +gazed several minutes at the grand confusion of clouds and +seraphim descending around the patriarch, and wished for a +similar dream.</p> +<p>Having spent the little time I had remaining in contemplating +this object, I hastened from the palace and left Modena.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p191b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Bologna" +title= +"Bologna" + src="images/p191s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>We traversed a champagne country in our way to Bologna, whose +richness and fertility increased in proportion as we drew near +that celebrated mart of lap-dogs and sausages. A chain of +hills commands the city, variegated with green inclosures and +villas innumerable, almost every one of which has its grove of +chestnuts and cypresses. On the highest acclivity of this +range appears the magnificent convent of Madonna del Monte, +embosomed in wood, and joined to the town by a corridor a league +in length. This vast portico, ascending the steeps and +winding amongst the thickets, sometimes concealed and sometimes +visible, produces an effect wonderfully grand and singular. +I longed to have mounted the height by so extraordinary a +passage; and hope on some future day to be better acquainted with +Saint Maria del Monte.</p> +<p>At present I thought of little else, to say truth, but what I +had seen at Fiesso; and what I was to hear at Lucca. The +anxiety inspired by the one, and impatience by the other, +rendered me shamefully insensible to the merits of Bologna (where +I passed near two hours), and of which I can add nothing but that +it is very much out of humour, an earthquake and Cardinal +Buoncompagni having disarranged both land and people. For +half-a-year the ground continued trembling; and for these last +months, the legate and senators have grumbled and scratched +incessantly; so that, between natural and political commotions, +the Bolognese must have passed an agreeable summer.</p> +<p>Such a report of the situation of things, you may suppose, was +not likely to retard my journey. I put off delivering my +letters to another opportunity; ran up a tall slender tower as +high as the Campanile di San Marco, by way of exercise; and +proceeded immediately after dinner towards the mountains. +We were soon in the midst of crags and stony channels, that +stream with ten thousand rills in the winter season, but during +the summer months reflect every sunbeam, and harbour half the +scorpions in the country.</p> +<p>For many a toilsome league our prospect consisted of nothing +but dreary hillocks and intervening wastes, more barren and +mournful than those to which Mary Magdalene retired. +Sometimes a crucifix or chapel peeped out of the parched fern and +grasses, with which these desolate fields are clothed; and now +and then we met a goggle-eyed pilgrim trudging along, and staring +about him as if he waited only for night and opportunity to have +additional reasons for hurrying to Jerusalem.</p> +<p>During three or four hours that we continued ascending, the +scene increased in sterility and desolation; but, at the end of +our second post, the landscape began to alter for the better: +little green valleys at the base of tremendous steeps, discovered +themselves, scattered over with oaks, and freshened with running +waters, which the nakedness of the impending rocks set off to +advantage. The sides of the cliffs in general consist of +rude misshapen masses; but their summits are smooth and verdant, +and continually browsed by herds of white goats, which were +gambolling on the edge of the precipices as we passed +beneath.</p> +<p>I joined one of these frisking assemblies, whose shadows were +stretched by the setting sun along the level herbage. There +I sat a few minutes whilst they shook their beards at me, and +tried to scare me with all their horns; but I was not to be +frightened, and would offer up my adorations to departing day, in +spite of their caperings. Being tired with skipping and +butting at me in vain, the whole herd trotted away, and I after +them. They led me a dance from crag to crag and from +thicket to thicket.</p> +<p>It was growing dusky apace, and wreaths of smoke began to +ascend from the mysterious depths of the valleys. I was +ignorant what monster inhabited such retirements, so gave over my +pursuit, lest some Polypheme or other might make me repent +it. I looked around, the carriage was out of sight; but +hearing the neighing of horses at a distance, I soon came up with +them, and mounted another rapid ascent, whence an extensive tract +of cliff and forest land was discernible.</p> +<p>The rocks here formed a spacious terrace; along which I +continued surveying the distant groves, and marking the solemn +approach of night. The sky was hung with storms, and a pale +moon seemed to advance with difficulty amongst broken and +tempestuous clouds. It was an hour to reap plants with +brazen sickles, and to meditate upon revenge.</p> +<p>A chill wind blew from the highest peak of the Apennines, +inspiring evil, and making a dismal rustle amongst the woods of +chestnut that hung on the mountain’s side, through which we +were forced to pass. I never heard such fatal murmurs; nor +felt myself so gloomily. I walked out of the sound of the +carriage, where the glimmering moonlight prevailed, and began +interpreting the language of the leaves, not greatly to my own +advantage or that of any being in the universe. I was no +prophet of good, but full of melancholy bodings, and something +that bordered upon despair. Had I but commanded an oracle, +as ancient visionaries were wont, I should have thrown whole +nations into dismay.</p> +<p>How long I continued in this strange temper I cannot pretend +to say, but believe it was midnight before we emerged from the +oracular forest, and saw faintly before us the huts of Lognone, +where we were to sleep. This blessed hamlet is suspended on +the brow of a bleak mountain, and every gust that stirs shakes +the whole village to its foundations. At our approach two +hags stalked forth with lanterns and invited us with a grin, +which I shall always remember, to a dish of mustard and +crow’s gizzards, a dish I was more than half afraid of +tasting, lest it should change me to some bird of darkness, +condemned to mope eternally on the black rafters of the +cottage.</p> +<p>After repeated supplications we procured a few eggs, and some +faggots to make a fire. Its blaze gave me courage to hear +the hollow blasts that whistled in the crevices; and pitching my +bed in a warm corner, I soon fell asleep, and forgot all my cares +and inquietudes.</p> +<p><i>September</i> 14<i>th</i>.—The sun had not been long +above the horizon, before we set forward upon a craggy pavement +hewn out of the rough bosom of the cliffs and precipices. +Scarce a tree was visible, and the few that presented themselves +began already to shed their leaves. The raw nipping air of +this desert with difficulty spares a blade of vegetation; and in +the whole range of these extensive eminences I could not discover +a single corn-field or pasture. Inhabitants, you may guess, +there were none. I would defy even a Scotch highlander to +find means of subsistence in so rude a soil.</p> +<p>Towards midday, we had surmounted the dreariest part of our +journey, and began to perceive a milder landscape. The +climate improved as well as the prospect, and after a continual +descent of several hours, we saw groves and villages in the dips +of the hills, and met a string of mules and horses laden with +fruit. I purchased some figs and peaches from this little +caravan, and spreading my repast upon a bank, baked in the +sunshine, and gathered large spikes of lavender in full +bloom.</p> +<p>Continuing our route, we bid adieu to the realms of poverty +and barrenness, and entered a cultivated vale sheltered by woody +acclivities. Among these we wound along, the peasants +singing upon the hill, and driving their cattle to springs by the +road’s side; near one of which we dined in a patriarchal +manner, and afterwards pursued our course through a grove of +taper cypresses, waving with the cool gales of the evening. +The heights were suffused with a ruddy glow, proceeding from the +light pink clouds which floated on the horizon. No others +were to be seen. All nature seemed in a happy tranquil +state; the herds penned in their folds, and every rustic going to +repose. I shared the general calm for the first time this +many a tedious hour; and traversed the dales in peace, abandoned +to flattering hopes and gay illusions. The full moon shone +propitiously upon me as I ascended a hill, and discovered +Florence at a distance, surrounded with gardens and terraces, +rising one above another. The serene moonlight on the pale +grey tints of the olive, gave an Elysian, visionary appearance to +the landscape. I never beheld so mild a sky, nor such soft +gleams: the mountains were veiled in azure mists, which concealed +their rugged summits; and the plains in vapours, that smoothed +their irregularities, and diffused a faint aërial hue, to +which no description can render justice. I could have +contemplated such scenery for hours, and was sorry when I found +myself shut up from it by the gates of Florence. We passed +several lofty palaces of the true Tuscan order, with rustic +arcades and stout columns, whose solidity and magnificence were +not diminished by the shades of midnight. Whilst these +grand masses lay dark and solemn, the smooth flagstone, with +which every street is paved, received a chequered gleam, and the +Arno, the brightest radiance. Though tired with my jumble +over the Apennines, I could not resist the temptation of walking +upon the banks of so celebrated a river, and crossing its +bridges, which still echoed with music and conversation. +Having gratified the first impulse of curiosity, I returned to +Vaninis, and slept as well as my impatience would allow, till it +was time next morning (September 15th), to visit the gallery, and +worship the Venus de Medicis. I felt, upon entering this +world of taste and elegance, as if I could have taken up my abode +in it for ever; but confused with the multitude of objects, I +knew not where to turn myself, and ran childishly by the ample +ranks of sculptures, like a butterfly in a parterre, that skims +before it fixes, over ten thousand flowers.</p> +<p>Having taken my course down one side of the gallery, I turned +the angle and discovered another long perspective, equally stored +with prodigies of bronze and marble; paintings on the walls, on +the ceilings, in short, everywhere. A minute brought me, +vast as it was, to the extremity of this range; then, flying down +a third, adorned in the same delightful manner, I paused under +the bust of Jupiter Olympius; and began to reflect a little more +maturely upon the company in which I found myself. +Opposite, appeared the majestic features of Minerva, breathing +divinity; and Cybele, the mother of the gods.</p> +<p>I bowed low to these awful powers, but seeing a black figure +just by, whose attitude seemed to announce the deity of sleep, I +made immediately up to it. You know my fondness for this +drowsy personage, and that it is not the first time I have +quitted the most splendid society for him. I found him, at +present, of touchstone, with the countenance of a towardly brat, +sleeping ill through indigestion. The artist had not +conceived such high ideas of the god as live in my bosom, or else +he never would have represented him with so little grace or +dignity.</p> +<p>Displeased at finding my favourite subject profaned, I +perceived the lively transports of enthusiasm began in some +degree to be dissipated, and I felt myself calm enough to follow +the herd of guides and spectators from chamber to chamber and +cabinet to cabinet, without falling into errors of rapture and +inspiration. We were led slowly and moderately through the +large rooms, containing the portraits of painters, good, bad, and +indifferent, from Raffaelle to Liotard; then into a museum of +bronzes, which would afford both amusement and instruction for +years.</p> +<p>To one who can never behold an ancient lamp or tripod without +the associations of those who sacrificed on the one and meditated +by the other, imagine what pleasures such a repository must have +communicated.</p> +<p>When I had alarmed, not satisfied, my curiosity by rapidly +running over this multitude of candelabra, urns, and sacred +utensils, we entered a small luminous apartment, surrounded with +cases richly decorated, and filled with the most exquisite models +of workmanship in bronze and various metals, classed in exact +order. Here are crowds of diminutive deities and tutelary +lars, to whom the superstition of former days attributed those +midnight murmurs which were believed to presage the misfortunes +of a family. Amongst these now neglected images are +preserved a vast number of talismans, cabalistic amulets, and +other grotesque relics of ancient credulity.</p> +<p>In the centre of the room, I remarked a table, beautifully +formed of polished gems, and, hard by it, the statue of a genius +with his familiar serpent, and all his attributes; the guardian +of the treasured antiquities. From this chamber we were +conducted into another, which opens to that part of the gallery +where the busts of Adrian and Antinous are placed. Two +pilasters, delicately carved in trophies and clusters of ancient +armour, stand on each side of the entrance; within are several +perfumed cabinets of miniatures, and a single column of Oriental +alabaster about ten feet in height,</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">“Lucido e terso, +e bianco, più che latte.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>I put my guide’s patience to the proof, by remaining +much longer than any one else ever did, in admiring the pillar, +and rummaging the drawers of the cabinets. At last, the +musk with which they are impregnated obliged me to desist, and I +moved on to a suite of saloons, with low arched roofs, glittering +with arabesque, in azure and gold. Several medallions +appear amongst the wreaths of foliage, tolerably well painted, +with representations of splendid feasts and tournaments for which +Florence was once so famous.</p> +<p>A vast collection of small pictures, most of them Flemish, +covers the walls of these apartments. But nothing struck me +more than a Medusa’s head by that surprising genius +Leonardo da Vinci. It appears just severed from the body, +and cast on the damp pavement of a cavern: a deadly paleness +covers the countenance, and the mouth exhales a pestilential +vapour: the snakes, which fill almost the whole picture, +beginning to untwist their folds; one or two seemed already crept +away, and crawling up the rock in company with toads and other +venomous reptiles.</p> +<p>The colouring of these disgustful objects is faithful to a +great degree; the effect of light, prodigious; the whole so +masterly that I could not help entering into this description; +though I fear to little purpose, as words at best convey but a +weak idea of objects addressed to the sight alone.</p> +<p>Here are a great many Polemburgs: one in particular, the +strangest I ever beheld. Instead of those soft scenes of +woods and waterfalls he is in general so fond of representing, he +has chosen for his subject Virgil ushering Dante into the regions +of eternal punishment, amidst the ruins of flaming edifices that +glare across the infernal waters. These mournful towers +harbour innumerable shapes, all busy in preying upon the +damned. One capital devil, in the form of an enormous +lobster, seems very strenuously employed in mumbling a miserable +mortal, who sprawls, though in vain, to escape from his +claws. This performance, whimsical as it is, retains all +that softness of tint and delicacy of pencil for which Polemburg +is so renowned.</p> +<p>Had not the subject so palpably contradicted the execution as +to become remarkable, I should have passed it over, like a +thousand more, and brought you immediately to the Tribune. +I dare say our sensations were similar on entering this +apartment. Need I say I was enchanted the moment I set my +feet within it, and saw full before me the Venus de +Medicis? The warm ivory hue of the original marble is a +beauty no copy has ever imitated, and the softness of the limbs +exceeded the liveliest idea I had formed to myself of their +perfection.</p> +<p>Their symmetry every artist is acquainted with; but do you +recollect a faint ruddy cast in the hair, which admirably +relieves the whiteness of the forehead? This circumstance, +though perhaps accidental, struck me as peculiarly charming; it +increased the illusion, and helped me to imagine I beheld a +breathing divinity.</p> +<p>When I had taken my eyes reluctantly from this beautiful +object, I cast them upon a Morpheus of white marble, which lies +slumbering at the feet of the goddess in the form of a graceful +child. A dormant lion serves him for a pillow: two ample +wings, carved with the utmost delicacy, are gathered under him; +two others, budding from his temples, half concealed by a flow of +lovely ringlets. His languid hands scarce hold a bunch of +poppies: near him creeps a lizard, just yielding to his +influence. Nothing can be more just than the expression of +sleep in the countenance of the little divinity. His lion +too seems perfectly lulled, and rests his muzzle upon his +fore-paws as quiet as a domestic mastiff. I contemplated +the god with infinite satisfaction, till I felt an agreeable +sleepiness steal over my senses, and should have liked very well +to doze away a few hours by his side. My ill-humour at +seeing this deity so grossly sculptured in the gallery, was +dissipated by the gracefulness of his appearance in the +Tribune. I was now contented, for the artist, (to whom the +Lord give a fair seat in paradise!) had realized my ideas; and, +if I may venture my opinion, sculpture never arrived to higher +perfection, or, at the same time, kept more justly within its +province. Sleeping figures with me always produce the +finest illusion. I easily persuade myself that I behold the +very personage, cast into the lethargic state which is meant to +be represented, and I can gaze whole hours upon them with +complacency. But when I see an archer in the very act of +discharging his arrow, a dancer with one foot in the air, or a +gladiator extending his fist to all eternity, I grow tired, and +ask, When will they perform what they are about? When will +the bow twang? the foot come to the ground? or the fist meet its +adversary? Such wearisome attitudes I can view with +admiration, but never with pleasure. The wrestlers, for +example, in the same apartment, filled me with disgust: I cried +out, For heaven’s sake! give the throw, and have +done. In taking my turn round the enchanted circle, I +discovered still, another Morpheus; stretched carelessly on a +mantle, with poppies in his hands; but no wings grow from his +temples, nor lion supports his head. A moth just issuing +from his chrysalis is the only being which seems to have felt his +soporific influence; whereas the other god I have mentioned may +vaunt the glory of subduing the most formidable of animals.</p> +<p>The morning was gone before I could snatch myself from the +Tribune. In my way home, I looked into the cathedral, an +enormous fabric, inlaid with the richest marbles, and covered +with stars and chequered work, like an old-fashioned +cabinet. The architect seems to have turned his building +inside out; nothing in art being more ornamented than the +exterior, and few churches so simple within. The nave is +vast and solemn, the dome amazingly spacious, with the high altar +in its centre, inclosed by a circular arcade near two hundred +feet in diameter. There is something imposing in this +decoration, as it suggests the idea of a sanctuary, into which +none but the holy ought to penetrate. However profane I +might feel myself, I took the liberty of entering, and sat myself +down in a niche. Not a ray of light reaches this sacred +inclosure, but through the medium of narrow windows, high in the +dome and richly painted. A sort of yellow tint +predominates, which gives additional solemnity to the altar, and +paleness to the votary before it. I was sensible of the +effect, and obtained at least the colour of sanctity.</p> +<p>Having remained some time in this pious hue, I returned home +and feasted upon grapes and ortolans with great edification; then +walked to one of the bridges across the Arno, and surveyed the +hills at a distance, purpled by the declining sun. Its mild +beams tempted me to the garden of Boboli, which lies behind the +Palazzo Pitti, stretched out on the side of a mountain. I +ascended terrace after terrace, robed by a thick underwood of hay +and myrtle, above which rise several nodding towers, and a long +sweep of venerable wall, almost entirely concealed by ivy. +You would have been enraptured with the broad masses of shade and +dusky alleys that opened as I advanced, with white statues of +fauns and sylvans glimmering amongst them; some of which pour +water into sarcophagi of the purest marble, covered with antique +relievos. The capitals of columns and ancient friezes are +scattered about as seats.</p> +<p>On these I reposed myself, and looked up to the cypress groves +spiring above the thickets; then, plunging into their +retirements, I followed a winding path, which led me by a series +of steep ascents to a green platform overlooking the whole extent +of wood, with Florence deep beneath, and the tops of the hills +which encircle it, jagged with pines; here and there a convent, +or villa, whitening in the sun. This scene extends as far +as the eye can reach.</p> +<p>Still ascending I attained the brow of the mountain, and had +nothing but the fortress of Belvedere, and two or three open +porticos above me. On this elevated situation, I found +several walks of trellis-work, clothed with luxuriant vines, that +produce to my certain knowledge the most delicious +clusters. A colossal statue of Ceres, her hands extended in +the act of scattering fertility over the prospect, crowns the +summit, where I lingered to mark the landscape fade, and the +bright skirts of the western sun die gradually away.</p> +<p>Then descending alley after alley, and bank after bank, I came +to the orangery in front of the palace, disposed in a grand +amphitheatre, with marble niches relieved by dark foliage, out of +which spring tall aërial cypresses. This spot brought +the scenery of an antique Roman garden full into my mind. I +expected every instant to be called to the table of Lucullus hard +by, in one of the porticoes, and to stretch myself on his purple +triclinias; but waiting in vain for a summons till the approach +of night, I returned delighted with a ramble that had led me so +far into antiquity.</p> +<p><i>Friday</i>, <i>September</i> 16<i>th</i>.—My +impatience to hear Pacchierotti called me up with the sun. +I blessed a day which was to give me the greatest of musical +pleasures, and travelled gaily towards Lucca, along a fertile +plain, bounded by rocky hills, and scattered over with towns and +villages. We passed Pistoia in haste, and about three in +the afternoon entered the Lucchese territory, by a clean, paved +road, which runs through some of the pleasantest copses +imaginable, bordered with a variety of heaths and broom in +blossom. Sometimes it conducted us down slopes, overgrown +with shrubby chestnuts and arbor vitæ; sometimes between +groves of cypresses and pines laden with cones: a red soil +peeping forth from the vegetation adds to the richness of the +landscape, which swells all the way into gentle acclivities: and +at about seven or eight miles from the city spreads into +mountains, green to their very summits, and diversified with +gardens and palaces. A more pleasing scenery can with +difficulty be imagined: I was quite charmed with beholding it, as +I knew very well that the opera would keep me a long while +chained down in its neighbourhood.</p> +<p>Happy for me that the environs of Lucca were so beautiful; +since I defy almost any city to contain more ugliness within its +walls. Narrow streets and dismal alleys; wide gutters and +cracked pavements; everybody in black, like mourners for the +gloom of their habitations, which, however, are large and lofty +enough of conscience; but having all grated windows, they convey +none but dark and dungeon-like ideas. My spirits fell many +degrees upon entering this sable capital; and when I found Friday +was meagre day, in every sense of the word, with its inhabitants, +and no opera to be performed, I grew terribly out of humour, and +shut myself up in a chamber of the inn, which, to complete my +misfortune, was crowded with human lumber. Instead of a +delightful symphony, I heard nothing for some time but the +clatter of plates and the swearing of waiters.</p> +<p>Amongst the number of my tormentors was a whole Genoese family +of distinction; very fat and sleek, and terribly addicted to the +violin. Hearing of my fondness for music, they speedily got +together a few scrapers, and began such an academia as drove me +to one end of the room, whilst they possessed the other. +The hopes and heir of the family—a coarse chubby dolt of +about eighteen—played out of all time, and during the +interval of repose he gave his elbow, burst out into a torrent of +commonplace, which completed, you may imagine, my felicity.</p> +<p>Pacchierotti, whom they all worshipped in their heavy way, sat +silent the while in a corner; the second soprano warbled, not +absolutely ill, at the harpsichord; whilst the old lady, young +lady, and attendant females, kept ogling him with great +perseverance. Those who could not get in, squinted through +the crevices of the door. Abbés and greyhounds were +fidgeting continually without. In short, I was so worried +that, pleading headaches and lassitudes, I escaped about ten +o’clock, and shook myself when I got safe to my apartment, +like a spaniel just fresh from a dripping copse.</p> +<h2>LETTER XIV.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Lucca</span>, +<i>September</i> 25<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>You ask me how I pass my time. Generally upon the hills, +in wild spots where the arbutus flourishes: from whence I may +catch a glimpse of the distant sea; my horse tied to a cypress, +and myself cast upon the grass, like Palmarin of Oliva, with a +tablet and pencil in my hand, a basket of grapes by my side, and +a crooked stick to shake down the chestnuts. I have bidden +adieu, several days ago, to the dinners and glories of the town, +and only come thither in an evening, just time enough for the +grand march which precedes Pacchierotti in <i>Quinto +Fabio</i>. Sometimes he accompanies me in my excursions, to +the utter discontent of the Lucchese, who swear I shall ruin +their opera, by leading him such confounded rambles amongst the +mountains, and exposing him to the inclemency of winds and +showers. One day they made a vehement remonstrance, but in +vain; for the next, away we trotted over hill and dale, and +stayed so late in the evening, that cold and hoarseness were the +consequence.</p> +<p>The whole republic was thrown into commotion, and some of its +prime ministers were deputed to harangue Pacchierotti upon the +rides he had committed. Billingsgate never produced such +furious orators. Had the safety of their mighty state +depended upon this imprudent excursion, they could not have +vociferated with greater violence. You know I am rather +energetic, and, to say truth, I had very nearly got into a scrape +of importance, and drawn down the execrations of the Gonfalonier +and all his council upon my head, in defending him, and in openly +declaring our intention of taking, next morning, another ride +over the rocks, and absolutely losing ourselves in the clouds +which veil their acclivities. These threats were put into +execution, and yesterday we made a tour of about thirty miles +upon the highlands, and visited a variety of castles and +palaces.</p> +<p>The Conte Nobili conducted us, a noble Lucchese, but born in +Flanders and educated at Paris. He possesses the greatest +elegance of imagination, and a degree of sensibility rarely met +with upon our gross planet. The way did not appear tedious +in such company. The sun was tempered by light clouds, and +a soft autumnal haze rested upon the hills, covered with shrubs +and olives. The distant plains and forests appeared tinted +with deep blue, and I am now convinced the azure so prevalent in +Velvet Breughel’s landscapes is not exaggerated.</p> +<p>After riding for six or seven miles along the cultivated +levels, we began to ascend a rough slope, overgrown with +chestnuts; here and there some vines streaming in garlands +displayed their clusters. A great many loose fragments and +stumps of ancient pomegranates perplexed our route, which +continued, turning and winding through this sort of wilderness, +till it opened on a sudden to the side of a lofty mountain, +covered with tufted groves, amongst which hangs the princely +castle of the Garzonis, on the very side of a precipice.</p> +<p>Alcina could not have chosen a more romantic situation. +The garden lies extended beneath, gay with flowers, and +glittering with compartments of spar, which, though in no great +purity of taste, has an enchanted effect for the first +time. Two large marble basins, with jet-d’eaux +seventy feet in height, divide the parterres; from the extremity +of which rises a rude cliff, shaded with firs and ilex, and cut +into terraces.</p> +<p>Leaving our horses at the great gate of this magic inclosure, +we passed through the spray of the fountains, and mounting an +almost endless flight of steps, entered an alley of oranges, and +gathered ripe fruit from the trees. Whilst we were thus +employed, the sun broke from the clouds, and lighted up the vivid +green of the vegetation; at the same time spangling the waters, +which pour copiously down a succession of rocky terraces, and +sprinkle the impending citron-trees with perpetual dew. +These streams issue from a chasm in the cliff, surrounded by +cypresses, which conceal by their thick branches some pavilions +with baths. Above arises a colossal statue of Fame, boldly +carved, and in the very act of starting from the +precipices. A narrow path leads up to the feet of the +goddess, on which I reclined; whilst a vast column of water +arched over my head, and fell, without even wetting me with its +spray, into the depths below.</p> +<p>I could with difficulty prevail upon myself to abandon this +cool recess, which the fragrance of bay and orange, extracted by +constant showers, rendered uncommonly luxurious. At last I +consented to move on, through a dark wall of ilex, which, to the +credit of Signor Garzoni be it spoken, is suffered to grow as +wild and as forest-like as it pleases. This grove is +suspended on the mountain side, whose summit is clothed with a +boundless wood of olives, and forms, by its azure colour, a +striking contrast with the deep verdure of its base.</p> +<p>After resting a few moments in the shade, we proceeded to a +long avenue (bordered by aloes in bloom, forming majestic +pyramids of flowers thirty feet high), which led us to the +palace. This was soon run over. Then, mounting our +horses, we wound amongst sunny vales, and inclosures with myrtle +hedges, till we came to a rapid steep. We felt the heat +most powerfully in ascending it, and were glad to take refuge +under a bower of vines, which runs for miles along its summit, +almost without interruption. These arbours afforded us both +shade and refreshment; I fell upon the clusters which formed our +ceiling, like a native of the north, unused to such luxuriance: +one of those Goths which Gray so poetically describes, who</p> +<blockquote><p>“Scent the new fragrance of the breathing +rose,<br /> +And quaff the pendent vintage as it grows.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>I wish you had journeyed with us under this fruitful canopy, +and observed the partial sunshine through its transparent leaves, +and the glimpses of the blue sky it every now and then +admitted. I say only every now and then, for in most places +a sort of verdant gloom prevailed, exquisitely agreeable in so +hot a day.</p> +<p>But such luxury did not last, you may suppose, for ever. +We were soon forced from our covert, and obliged to traverse a +mountain exposed to the sun, which had dispersed every cloud, and +shone with intolerable brightness. On the other side of +this extensive eminence lies an agreeable hillock, surrounded by +others, woody and irregular. Wide vineyards and fences of +Indian corn lay between, across which the Conte Nobili conducted +us to his house, where we found prepared a very comfortable +dinner. We drank the growth of the spot, and defied +Constantia and the Cape to excel it.</p> +<p>Afterwards, retiring into a wood of the Marchese Mansi, with +neat pebble walks and trickling rivulets, we sipped coffee and +loitered till sunset. It was then time to return: the dews +began to fall, and the mists to rise from the valleys. The +profound calm and silence of evening threw us all three into our +reveries. We went pacing along heedlessly, just as our +horses pleased, without hearing any sound but their steps.</p> +<p>Between nine and ten we entered the gates of Lucca. +Pacchierotti coughed, and half its inhabitants wished us at the +devil.</p> +<p>I think now I have detained you long enough with my +excursions: you must require a little repose; for my own part, I +am heartily tired. I intended to say some things about +certain owls, amongst other grievances I am pestered with in this +republic; but shall cut them all short, and wish you good-night; +for the opera is already begun, and I would not miss the first +glorious recitative for the empire of Trebizond.</p> +<h2>LETTER XV.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Livourno</span>, +<i>October</i> 2<i>nd</i>.</p> +<p>No sooner were we beyond the gates, than we found ourselves in +narrow roads, shut in by vines and grassy banks of canes and +osiers, rising high above our carriage, and waving their leaves +in the air. Through the openings which sometimes intervene +we discovered a variety of hillocks clothed with shrubberies and +verdure, ruined towers looking out of the bushes, not one without +a romantic tale attending it.</p> +<p>This sort of scenery lasted till, passing the baths, we beheld +Pisa rising from an extensive plain, the most open we had as yet +seen in Italy, crossed by an aqueduct. We were set down +immediately before the Duomo, which stands insulated in a verdant +opening, and is by far the most curious and highly finished +edifice my eyes ever viewed. Don’t ask of what shape +or architecture; it is almost impossible to tell, so great is the +confusion of ornaments. The capitals of the columns and +carvings of the architraves, as well as the form of the arches, +are evidently of Grecian design, but Gothic proportions. +The dome gives the mass an Oriental appearance, which helped to +bewilder me; in short, I have dreamed of such buildings, but +little thought they existed. On one side you survey the +famous tower, as perfectly awry as I expected; on the other the +baptistery, a circular edifice distinct from the church and right +opposite its principal entrance, crowded with sculptures and +topped by the strangest of cupolas.</p> +<p>Having indulged our curiosity with this singular prospect for +some moments, we entered the cathedral and admired the stately +columns of porphyry and the rarest marbles, supporting a roof +which, like the rest of the building, shines with gold. A +pavement of the brightest mosaic completes its magnificence: all +around are sculptures by M. Ang. Buonaroti, and paintings by the +most distinguished artists. We examined them all, and then +walked down the nave and remarked the striking effect of the +baptistery, seen in perspective through the bronze portals, which +you know, I suppose, are covered with relievos of the finest +workmanship. These noble valves were thrown wide open, and +we passed between to examine the alabaster fount in the +baptistery, constructed after the primitive ritual, and +exquisitely wrought. Many palm trees appear amongst the +carved work, which seems to indicate the former connections of +the Pisanese with Palestine.</p> +<p>Our next object was the Campo Santo, which forms one side of +the opening in which the cathedral is situated. The walls, +and Gothic tabernacle above the entrance, rising from a level +turf, appear as fresh as if built within the present century, +and, preserving a neat straw colour, have the cleanest effect +imaginable. Our guide unlocking the gates, we entered a +spacious cloister, forming an oblong quadrangle, enclosing the +sacred earth of Jerusalem, conveyed hither about the period of +the crusades, in the days of Pisanese prosperity. The holy +mould produces a rampant crop of weeds, but none are permitted to +spring from the pavement, which is entirely composed of tombs +with slabs and monumental inscriptions smoothly laid. +Ranges of slender pillars, formed of the whitest marble and +glistening in the sun, support the arcades, which are carved with +innumerable stars and roses, partly Gothic and partly +Saracenial. Strange paintings of hell and the devil, mostly +taken from Dante’s rhapsodies, cover the walls of these +fantastic galleries, attributed to the venerable Giotto and +Bufalmacco, whom Boccace mentions in his +“Decamerone.”</p> +<p>Beneath, along the base of the columns, rows of pagan +sarcophagi are placed, to my no small surprise, as I could not +have supposed the Pisanese sufficiently tolerant to admit profane +sculptures within such consecrated precincts. However, +there they are, as well as fifty other contradictory +ornaments.</p> +<p>I was quite seized by the strangeness of the place, and paced +fifty times round and round the cloisters, discovering at every +time some odd novelty. When tired, I seated myself on a +fair slab of <i>giallo antico</i>, that looked a little cleaner +than its neighbours (which I only mention to identify the precise +point of view), and looking through the filigreed covering of the +arches, observed the domes of the cathedral, cupola of the +baptistery, and roof of the leaning tower rising above the leads, +and forming the strangest assemblage of pinnacles perhaps in +Europe. The place is neither sad nor solemn; the arches are +airy, the pillars light, and there is so much caprice, such an +exotic look in the whole scene, that without any violent effort +of fancy one might imagine one’s self in fairyland. +Every object is new, every ornament original; the mixture of +antique sarcophagi with Gothic sepulchres, completes the vagaries +of the prospect, to which, one day or other, I think of +returning, to act a visionary part, hear visionary music, and +commune with sprites, for I shall never find in the whole +universe besides so whimsical a theatre. It was between ten +and eleven when we entered the Campo Santo, and one o’clock +struck before I could be persuaded to leave it; and ’twas +the sun which then drove me away; whose heat was so powerful that +all the inhabitants of Pisa showed their wisdom by keeping within +doors. Not an animal appeared in the streets, except five +camels laden with water, stalking along a range of garden walls +and pompous mansions, with an awning before every door. We +were obliged to follow their steps, at least a quarter of a mile, +before we reached our inn. Ice was the first thing I sought +after, and when I had swallowed an unreasonable portion, I began +not to think quite so much of the deserts of Africa, as the heat +and the camels had induced me a moment ago.</p> +<p>Early in the afternoon, we proceeded to Livourno through a +wild tract of forest, somewhat in the style of our English +parks. The trees in some places formed such shady arbours, +that we could not resist the desire of walking beneath them, and +were well rewarded; for after struggling through a rough thicket, +we entered a lawn hemmed in by oaks and chestnuts, which extends +several leagues along the coast and conceals the prospect of the +ocean; but we heard its murmurs.</p> +<p>Nothing could be smoother or more verdant than the herbage, +which was sprinkled with daisies and purple crocuses, as in the +month of May. I felt all the genial sensations of Spring +steal into my bosom, and was greatly delighted upon discovering +vast bushes of myrtle in bloom. The softness of the air, +the sound of the distant surges, the evening gleams, and repose +of the landscape, quieted the tumult of my spirits, and I +experienced the calm of my infant hours. I lay down in the +open turf-walks between the shrubberies, listlessly surveyed the +cattle browsing at a distance, and the blue hills that rose above +the foliage, and bounded the view. During a few moments I +had forgotten every care; but when I began to inquire into my +happiness, I found it vanish. I felt myself without those I +love most, in situations they would have warmly admired, and +without them these pleasant meads and woodlands were of little +avail.</p> +<p>We had not left this woody region far behind, when the +Fanalè began to lift itself above the horizon—the +Fanalè you have so often mentioned; the sky and ocean +glowing with amber light, and the ships out at sea appearing in a +golden haze, of which we have no conception in our northern +climates. Such a prospect, together with the fresh gales +from the Mediterranean, charmed me; I hurried immediately to the +port and sat on a reef of rocks, listening to the waves that +broke amongst them.</p> +<h2>LETTER XVI.</h2> +<p><i>October</i> 3<i>rd</i>.—I went, as you would have +done, to walk on the mole as soon as the sun began to shine upon +it. Its construction you are no stranger to; therefore I +think I may spare myself the trouble of saying anything about it, +except that the port which it embraces is no longer +crowded. Instead of ten ranks of vessels there are only +three, and those consist chiefly of Corsican galleys, that look +as poor and tattered as their masters. Not much attention +did I bestow upon such objects, but, taking my seat at the +extremity of the quay, surveyed the smooth plains of ocean, the +coast scattered over with watch-towers, and the rocky isle of +Gorgona, emerging from the morning mists, which still lingered +upon the horizon.</p> +<p>Whilst I was musing upon the scene, and calling up all that +train of ideas before my imagination, which possessed your own +upon beholding it, an ancient figure, with a beard that would +have suited a sea-god, stepped out of a boat, and tottering up +the steps of the quay, presented himself before me with a basket +in his hand. He stayed dripping a few moments before he +pronounced a syllable, and when he began his discourse, I was in +doubt whether I should not have moved off in a hurry, there was +something so wan and singular in his countenance. Except +this being, no other was visible for a quarter of a mile at +least. I knew not what strange adventure I might be upon +the point of commencing, or what message I was to expect from the +submarine divinities. However, after all my conjectures, +the figure turned out to be no other than an old fisherman, who, +having picked up a few large branches of red coral, offered them +to sale. I eagerly made the purchase, and thought myself a +favourite of Neptune, since he allowed me to acquire for next to +nothing some of his most beautiful ornaments.</p> +<p>My bargain thus expeditiously finished, I ran along the quay +with my basket of coral, and, jumping into a boat, was rowed back +to the gate of the port. The carriage waited there; I +filled it with jasmine, shut myself up in the shade of the green +blinds, and was driven away at a rate that favoured my +impatience. We bowled smoothly over the lawns I attempted +describing in my last letter, amongst myrtles in flower, that +would have done honour to the island of Juan Fernandes.</p> +<p>Arrived at Pisa, I scarcely allowed myself a moment to revisit +the Campo Santo, but, after taking my usual portion of ice and +pomegranate-seeds, hurried on to Lucca as fast as horses could +carry me, threw the whole idle town into a stare by my speedy +return, and gave myself up to <i>Q. Fabio</i>.</p> +<p>Next day (October 4th) was passed in running over my old +haunts upon the hills, and bidding farewell to several venerable +chestnuts, for which I had contracted a sort of friendship by +often experiencing their protection. I could not help +feeling some melancholy sensation when I turned round the last +time to bid them adieu. Who knows but some dryad enclosed +within them was conscious of my gratitude, and noted it down on +the bark of her tree? It was late before I finished my +excursion, and soon after I had walked as usual upon the ramparts +the opera began.</p> +<h2>LETTER XVII.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Florence</span>, +<i>October</i> 5<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>It was not without regret that I forced myself from +Lucca. We had all the same road to go over again, that +brought us to this important republic, but we broke down by way +of variety. The wind was chill, the atmosphere damp and +clogged with unwholesome vapours, through which we were forced to +walk for a league, whilst our chaise lagged after us.</p> +<p>Taking shelter in a miserable cottage, we remained shivering +and shaking till the carriage was in some sort of order, and then +proceeded so slowly that we did not arrive at Florence till late +in the evening. We found an apartment over the Arno +prepared for our reception. The river, swollen with rains, +roared like a mountain torrent. Throwing open my windows, I +viewed its agitated course by the light of the moon, half +concealed in stormy clouds, which hung above the fortress of the +Belvedere, and cast a lowering gleam over the hills, which rise +above the town, and wave with cypress. I sat contemplating +the effect of the shadows on the bridge, on the heights of +Boboli, and the mountain covered with pale olive groves, amongst +which a convent is situated, till the moon sunk into the darkest +quarter of the sky, and a bell began to toll. Its sullen +sound filled me with sadness. I closed the casements, +called for lights, ran to a harpsichord Vannini had prepared for +me, and played somewhat in the strain of Jomelli’s +<i>Miserere</i>.</p> +<p><i>October</i> 6<i>th</i>.—Every cloud was dispersed +when I arose; the sunbeams glittered on the stream, and the +purity and transparency of the tether added new charms to the +woody eminences around. Such was the clearness of the air +that even objects on the distant mountains were +distinguishable. I felt quite revived by the exhilarating +prospect, and walked in the splendour of sunshine to the porticos +beneath the famous gallery; then to an ancient castle, raised in +the days of the republic, which fronts the grand piazza: colossal +statues and venerable terms are placed before it. On one +side a fountain clung round with antique figures of bronze, by +John of Bologna, so admirably wrought as to hold me several +minutes in astonishment; on the other, three lofty Gothic arches, +and under one of them the Perseus of Benvenuto Cellini, raised on +a pedestal, incomparably designed and executed; which I could not +behold uninterested, since its author has ever occupied a +distinguished place in my kalendar of genius. Having +examined some groups of sculptures, by Baccio Bandinelli and +other mighty artists, I entered the court of the castle, dark and +deep, as if hewn out of a rock; surrounded by a vaulted arcade, +covered with arabesque ornaments, and supported by pillars as +uncouthly carved as those of Persepolis. In the midst +appears a marble fount with an image of bronze, that looks quite +strange and cabalistic. I leaned against it, to look up to +the summits of the walls, which rise to a vast height, from +whence springs a slender tower. Above, in the apartments of +the castle, were preserved numbers of curious cabinets, tables of +inlaid gems, and a thousand rarities, collected by the house of +Medici, but exposed by the present sovereign of Tuscany to public +sale.</p> +<p>It was not without indignation that I learnt this new mark of +contempt which the Austrians bestow on the memory of those +illustrious patrons of the Arts; whom, being unwilling to +imitate, they affect to despise as a race of merchants, whose +example it would be abasing their dignity to follow.</p> +<p>I could have stayed much longer to enjoy the novelty and +strangeness of the place; but it was right to pay some +compliments of form. That duty over, I dined in peace and +solitude, read over your letters, and repaired, as evening drew +on, to the thickets of Boboli.</p> +<p>What a serene sky! what mellowness in the tints of the +mountains! A purple haze concealed the bases, whilst their +summits were invested with saffron light, discovering every white +cot and every copse that clothed their declivities. The +prospect widened as I ascended the terraces of the garden.</p> +<p>After traversing many long alleys, brown with impending +foliage, I emerged into a green opening on the brow of the hill, +and seated myself under the statue of Ceres. From this high +point I surveyed the mosaic cupola of the Duomo, its quaint +turret, and one still more grotesque in its neighbourhood, built +not improbably in the style of ancient Etruria. Beyond this +singular group of buildings a plain stretches itself far and +wide, most richly scattered over with villas, gardens, and groves +of pine and olive, quite to the feet of the mountains.</p> +<p>After I had marked the sun’s going down, I went through +a plat of vines hanging on the steeps, to a little eminence, +round which the wood grows wilder and more luxuriant, and the +cypresses shoot up to a surprising elevation. The pruners +have spared this sylvan corner, and suffered the bays to put +forth their branches, and the ilex to dangle over the walks, many +of whose entrances are nearly overgrown. I enjoyed the +gloom of these shady arbours, in the midst of which rises a lofty +pavilion with galleries running round it, not unlike the idea one +forms of Turkish chiosks. Beneath lies a garden of vines +and rose-trees, which I visited, and found a spring under a +rustic arch of grotto-work, fringed round with ivy. +Millions of fish inhabit here, of that beautiful glittering +species which comes from China. This golden nation were +leaping after insects, as I stood gazing upon the deep, clear +water, and listening to the drops that trickle from the +cove. Opposite to which, at the end of an alley of vines, +you discover an oval bason, and in the midst of it a statue of +Ganymede, sitting reclined upon the eagle, full of that graceful +languor so peculiarly Grecian. Whilst I was musing on the +margin of the spring (for I returned to it after casting a look +upon the sculpture), the moon rose above the tufted foliage of +the terraces. Her silver brightness was strongly contrasted +by the deep green of the holm-oak and bay, amongst which I +descended by several flights of stairs, with neat marble +balustrades crowned by vases of aloes.</p> +<p>It was about seven o’clock, and everybody was jumbling +to my Lord T—’s, who lives in a fine house all over +blue and silver, with stuffed birds, alabaster cupids, and a +thousand prettinesses more; but, after all, neither he nor his +abode are worth mentioning. I found a deal of slopping and +sipping of tea going forwards, and many dawdlers assembled.</p> +<p>As I can say little good of the party, I had better shut the +door, and conduct you to the opera, which is really a striking +spectacle. However, it being addressed to the sight alone, +I was soon tired, and gave myself up to conversation. +Bedini, first soprano, put my patience to severe proof, during +the few minutes I attended. You never beheld such a +porpoise. If these animals were to sing, I should +conjecture it would be in his style. You may suppose how +often I invoked Pacchierotti, and regretted the lofty melody of +<i>Quinto Fabio</i>. Everybody seemed as well contented as +if there were no such thing as good music in the world, except a +Neapolitan duchess, who delighted me by her vivacity. We +took our fill of maledictions, and went home equally pleased with +each other for having mutually execrated both singers and +audience.</p> +<h2>LETTER XVIII.</h2> +<p><i>October</i> 22<i>nd</i>.—They say the air is worse +this year at Rome than ever, and that it would be madness to go +thither during its malign influence. This was very bad news +indeed to one heartily tired of Florence, at least of its +society. Merciful powers! what a set harbour within its +walls! * * * * * You may imagine I do not take vast or vehement +delight in this company, though very ingenious, praiseworthy, +etc. The woods of the Cascini shelter me every morning; and +there grows an old crooked ilex at their entrance, twisting round +a pine, upon whose branches I sit for hours,—hear, without +feeling, the showers trickling above my head, and see the cattle +browsing peacefully in their pastures, which hazel copses, +Italian pines, and groves of cypress enclose.</p> +<p>In the afternoon I never fail hiding myself in the thickets of +Boboli, and marking the golden glimmer of sunset between their +leaves. The other evening I varied my walks, and ascended +one of those pleasant hills <a name="citation214"></a><a +href="#footnote214" class="citation">[214]</a> which rise in the +vicinity of the city, and command a variegated scene of spires, +towns, villas, cots, and gardens. On the right, as you +stand upon the brow, appears Fesule with its turrets and white +houses, covering a rocky mount; to the left, the vast Val +d’Arno lost in immensity. A Franciscan convent stands +on the summit of the eminence, wrapped up in ancient cypresses, +which hinder its holy inhabitants from seeing too much of so gay +a view. The paved ascent leading up to their abode receives +also a shade from the cypresses which border it. Beneath +which venerable avenue, crosses with inscriptions are placed at +stated distances, to mark the various moments of Christ’s +passion; as when fainting under His burden He halted to repose +Himself, or when He met His afflicted mother (“Giesu +incontra la fua afflitta madre”).</p> +<p>Above, at the end of the perspective, rises a chapel designed +with infinite taste and simple elegance by M. A. +Buonarotti. Further on, an ancient church, in the corrupt +Greek style of the primitive Christians, incrusted with white +marble, porphyry, and verd antique. The interior presents a +crowded assemblage of ornaments, elaborate mosaic pavements, and +inlaid work without end. The high altar, placed in a +semicircular recess, which reminded me of the church at Torcello, +glitters with barbaric paintings on a gold ground, and receives +the strongest glow of light imaginable from five windows, filled +up with transparent marble clouded like tortoiseshell. A +smooth polished staircase leads to this sacred place: another +brought me to a subterraneous chapel, supported by confused +groups of variegated pillars, just visible by the glimmer of +lamps. I thought of the Zancaroon at Cordova, and began +reciting the first verses of the Koran.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p214b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Florence" +title= +"Florence" + src="images/p214s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Passing on not unawed, I followed some flights of steps, which +terminate in the neat cloisters of the convent, in perfect +preservation, but totally deserted. Ranges of citron and +aloes fill up the quadrangle, whose walls are hung with +superstitious pictures most singularly fancied. The Jesuits +were the last tenants of this retirement, and seem to have had +great reason for their choice. Its peace and stillness +delighted me.</p> +<p>Next day a very opposite scene engaged me, though much against +my will. Her R. H. the G. Duchess having produced a +princess in the night, everybody put on grand gala in the +morning, and I was carried, along with the glittering tide of +courtiers, ministers, and ladies, to see the christening. +After hearing the Grand Duke talk politics for some time, the +doors of a temporary chapel were thrown open. Trumpets +flourished, processions marched, and the archbishop began his +business at an altar of massive gold, placed under a yellow silk +pavilion, with pyramids of lights before it. Wax tapers, +though it was noon-day, shone in every corner of the +apartments. Two rows of pages, gorgeously accoutred, and +holding enormous torches, stood on each side his Royal Highness, +and made him the prettiest courtesies imaginable, to the sound of +an execrable band of music, though led by Nardini. The poor +old archbishop, who looked very piteous and saint-like, struck up +the Te Deum with a quavering voice, and the rest followed him +full gallop.</p> +<p>That ceremony being despatched (for his R. H. was in a mighty +fidget to shrink back into his beloved obscurity), the crowd +dispersed, and I went, with a few others, to dine at my Lord +Tilney’s.</p> +<p>Evening drawing on, I ran to throw myself into the woods of +Boboli, and remained till it was night in their profound +recesses. Really this garden is enough to bewilder an +enthusiastic spirit; there is something so solemn in its shades, +its avenues, and spires of cypresses. When I had mused for +many a melancholy hour amongst them, I emerged into the orangery +before the palace, which overlooks the largest district of the +town, and beheld, as I slowly descended the road which leads up +to it, certain bright lights glancing across the cupola of the +Duomo and the points of the highest towers. At first I +thought them meteors, or those illusive fires which often dance +before the eye of my imagination; but soon I was convinced of +their reality: for in a few minutes the battlements of the old +castle, which I remember mentioning in a former letter, shone +with lamps; the lantern of the cathedral was lighted up on a +sudden; whilst a stream of torches ran along its fantastic +turrets.</p> +<p>I enjoyed this prospect at a distance: when near, its pleasure +was greatly diminished, for half the fish in the town were frying +to rejoice the hearts of H. R. Highness’s loyal subjects, +and bonfires blazing in every street and alley. Hubbubs and +stinks of every denomination drove me quickly to the theatre; but +that was all glitter and glare. No taste, no arrangement, +paltry looking-glasses, and rat’s-tail candles. I had +half a mind to return to Boboli.</p> +<h2>LETTER XIX.</h2> +<p><i>October</i> 23<i>rd</i>.—Do you recollect our evening +rambles last year upon the hill of pines? and the dark valley +where we used to muse in the twilight? I remember we often +fancied the scene like Valombrosa; and vowed, if ever an occasion +offered, to visit that deep retirement. I had put off the +execution of this pilgrimage from day to day till the warm +weather was gone; and the Florentines declared I should be frozen +if I attempted it. Everybody stared last night at the opera +when I told them I was going to bury myself in fallen leaves, and +hear no music but their rustlings.</p> +<p>Mr. — was just as eager as myself to escape the +chit-chat and nothingness of Florence; so we finally determined +upon our expedition, and mounting our horses, set out this +morning, happily without any company but the spirit which led us +along. We had need of inspiration, since nothing else, I +think, would have tempted us over such dreary, uninteresting +hillocks as rise from the banks of the Arno. The hoary +olive is their principal vegetation; so that Nature, in this part +of the country, seems in a withering decrepit state, and may not +unaptly be compared to “an old woman clothed in +grey.” However, we did not suffer the prospect to +damp our enthusiasm, which was the better preserved for +Valombrosa.</p> +<p>About half way, our palfreys thought proper to look out for +some oats, and I to creep into a sort of granary in the midst of +a barren waste, scattered over with white rocks, that reflected +more heat than I cared for, although I had been told snow and ice +were to be my portion. Seating myself on the floor between +heaps of corn, I reached down a few purple clusters of Muscadine +grapes, which hung to dry in the ceiling, and amused myself very +pleasantly with them till the horses had finished their meal and +it was lawful to set forwards. We met with nothing but +rocky steeps shattered into fragments, and such roads as half +inclined us to repent our undertaking; but cold was not yet +amongst the number of our evils.</p> +<p>At last, after ascending a tedious while, we began to feel the +wind blow sharp from the peaks of the mountains, and to hear the +murmur of the forests of pine which shade their +acclivities. A paved path leads across them, quite darkened +by boughs, which, meeting over our heads, cast a gloom and a +chill below, that would have stopped the proceedings of +reasonable mortals, and sent them to bask in the plain; but, +being not so easily discomfited, we threw ourselves boldly into +the forest. It presented one of those confusions of tall +straight stems I am so fond of, and exhaled a fresh aromatic +odour that revived my spirits.</p> +<p>The cold to be sure was piercing; but setting that at +defiance, we galloped on, and issued shortly into a vast +amphitheatre of lawns and meadows, surrounded by thick woods +beautifully green. Flocks of sheep were dispersed on the +slopes, whose smoothness and verdure equal our English +pastures. Steep cliffs and mountains, clothed with beech to +their very summits, guard this retired valley. The herbage, +moistened by streams which fall from the eminences, has never +been known to fade; and, whilst the chief part of Tuscany is +parched by the heats of summer, these upland meadows retain the +freshness of spring. I regretted not having visited them +sooner, as autumn had already made great havoc amongst the +foliage. Showers of leaves blew full in our faces as we +rode towards the convent, placed at an extremity of the vale, and +sheltered by remote firs and chestnuts towering one above +another.</p> +<p>Alighting before the entrance, two fathers came out and +received us into the peace of their retirement. We found a +blazing fire, and tables spread very comfortably before it, round +which five or six overgrown friars were lounging, who seemed, by +the sleekness and rosy hue of their countenances, not totally to +have despised this mortal existence.</p> +<p>My letters of recommendation soon brought the heads of the +order about me, fair round figures, such as a Chinese would have +placed in his pagoda. I could willingly have dispensed with +their attention; yet to avoid this was scarcely within the circle +of possibility. All dinner we endured the silliest +questions imaginable; but that despatched, away flew your humble +servant to the fields and forests. The fathers made a shift +to waddle after, as fast and as complaisantly as they were able, +but were soon distanced.</p> +<p>Now, I found myself at liberty, and ran up a narrow path +overhung by rock, with bushy chestnuts starting from the +crevices. This led me into wild glens of beech trees, +mostly decayed and covered with moss: several were fallen. +It was amongst these the holy hermit Gualbertus had his +cell. I rested a moment upon one of their huge branches, +listening to the roar of a waterfall which the wood concealed; +then springing up, I clambered over crags and fragments, guided +by the sound, and presently discovered a full stream, +precipitating itself down a cliff of pine, amongst which I +remained several minutes, watching the fallen floods; till, tired +with their endless succession, I plunged into the thickest of the +grove. A beech received me, like a second Gualbertus, in +its hollow trunk. The dry leaves chased each other down the +steeps on the edge of the torrents with hollow rustlings, whilst +the solemn wave of the forests above exactly answered the idea I +had formed of Valombrosa,</p> +<blockquote><p> “ . . . +where th’ Etrurian shades<br /> +High overarch’t imbowr.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The scene was beginning to take effect, and the genius of +Milton to move across his favourite valley, when the fathers +arrived puffing and blowing, by an easier ascent than I knew +of. Pardon me, if I cursed their intrusion, and wished them +as still as Gualbertus.</p> +<p>“You have missed the way,” cried the youngest; +“the hermitage, with the fine picture by Andrea del Sarto, +which all the English admire, is on the opposite side of the +wood: there don’t you see it on the point of the +cliff?”</p> +<p>“Yes, yes,” said I a little peevishly; “I +wonder the devil has not pushed it down long ago; it seems to +invite his kick.”</p> +<p>“Satan,” answered the old Pagod very dryly, +“is full of malice; but whoever drinks of a spring which +the Lord causeth to flow near the hermitage is freed from his +illusions.”</p> +<p>“Are they so?” replied I with a sanctified accent; +“then prithee conduct me thither, for I have great need of +such salutary waters, being troubled with strange fancies and +imaginations, such as the evil one himself ought to be ashamed of +inspiring.”</p> +<p>The youngest father shook his head, as much as to say, +“This is nothing more than a heretic’s +whim.”</p> +<p>The senior—muddled, I conjecture—set forwards with +greater piety, and began some legendary tales of the kind which +my soul loveth: rare stories of caves and dens of the earth, +inhabited by ancient men familiar with spirits, and not the least +discomposed by a party of angels coming to dinner, or playing a +game at miracles to pass away the evening. He pointed to a +chasm in the cliff, round which we were winding by a spiral path, +where Gualbertus used to sleep, and, turning himself towards the +west, see a long succession of saints and martyrs sweeping +athwart the sky, and gilding the clouds with far brighter +splendours than the setting sun. Here he rested till his +last hour, when the bells of the convent beneath (which till that +moment would have made dogs howl, had there been any within its +precincts) struck out such harmonious jingling that all the +country around was ravished, and began lifting up their eyes with +singular devotion, when, behold! cherubim appeared, light dawned, +and birds chirped, although it was midnight. Alas! alas! +what would I not give to witness such a spectacle, and read my +prayer-book by the effulgence of opening heaven!</p> +<p>However, willing to see something at least, I crept into the +consecrated cleft, and extended myself on its rugged +surface. A very penitential couch! but commanding glorious +prospects of the world below, which lay this evening in deep blue +shade; the sun looking red and angry through misty vapours, which +prevented our discovering the Tuscan sea.</p> +<p>Finding the rock as damp as might be expected, I soon shifted +my quarters, and followed the youngest father up to the +Romitorio, a snug little hermitage, with a neat chapel, and +altar-piece by Andrea del Sarto, which I should have more +minutely examined in any other place, but where the wild scenery +of hanging woods and meadows, steep hills and nodding precipices, +possessed my whole attention. I just stayed to taste the +holy fountain; and then, escaping from my conductors, ran eagerly +down the path, leaping over the springs that crossed it, and +entered a lawn of the smoothest turf, grazed by sheep, and +swelling into gentle acclivities, skirted by groves of fir, whose +solemn verdure formed a contrast with its tender green. +Beyond this pleasant opening rises a second, hemmed in with +copses; and still higher, a third, whence a forest of young pines +spires up into a lofty theatre terminated by peaks, universally +concealed under a thick mantle of beech, tinged with ruddy +brown. Pausing in the midst of the lawns, and looking +upward to the sweeps of wood which surrounded me, I addressed my +orisons to the genius of the place, and prayed that I might once +more return into its bosom, and be permitted to bring you along +with me, for surely such meads, such groves, were formed for our +enjoyment!</p> +<p>This little rite performed, I walked on quite to the extremity +of the pastures, traversed a thicket, and found myself on the +edge of precipices, beneath whose base the whole Val d’Arno +lies expanded. I listened to distant murmurings in the +plain, saw smoke rise from the cottages, and viewed a vast tract +of barren country, which evening rendered still more desolate, +bounded by the high mountain of Radicofani. Then, turning +round, I beheld the whole extent of rock and forest, the groves +of beech, and wilds above the convent, glowing with fiery red, +for the sun, making a last effort to pierce the vapours, produced +this effect; which was the more striking, as the sky was dark, +and the rest of the prospect of a melancholy blue.</p> +<p>Returning slowly homeward, I marked the warm glow deserting +the eminences, and heard the bell toll sullenly to vespers. +The young boys of the seminary were moving in a body to their +dark inclosure, all dressed in black. Many of them looked +pale and wan. I wished to ask them whether the solitude of +Valombrosa suited their age and vivacity; but a tall spectre of a +priest drove them along like a herd, and presently, the gates +opening, I saw them no more. A sadness I could scarcely +account for came over me. I shivered at the bare idea of +being cooped up in such a place, and seeing no other living +objects than scarecrow priests and friars; to hear every day the +same dull service and droning organ; view the same cloisters; be +led the same walks; watched, cribbed, confined, and filled with +superstitious fears.</p> +<p>The night was growing chill, the winds boisterous, and in the +intervals of the gusts I had the addition of a lamentable +screech-owl to raise my spirits. Upon the whole, I was not +at all concerned to meet the fathers, who came out to show me to +my room, and entertain me with various gossipings, both sacred +and profane, till supper appeared.</p> +<p>Next morning, the Padre Decano gave us chocolate in his +apartment; and afterwards led us round the convent, insisting +most unmercifully upon our viewing every cell and every +dormitory. However, I was determined to make a full stop at +the organ, which is perhaps the most harmonious I ever played +upon; but placed in a dark, dingy recess, feebly lighted by +lamps, not calculated to inspire triumphant voluntaries. +The monks, who had all crowded around me when I first began, in +expectation of brisk jigs and lively overtures, soon took +themselves away upon hearing a strain ten times more sorrowful +than that to which they were accustomed. I did not lament +their departure, but played dismally on till our horses came +round to the gate. We mounted, spurred back through the +grove of pines which protect Valombrosa from intrusion, descended +the steeps, and, gaining the plains, galloped in three hours to +Florence.</p> +<h2>LETTER XX.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Sienna</span>, +<i>October</i> 26<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>At last fears were overcome, the epidemical fever at Rome +allowed to be no longer dangerous, and myself permitted to quit +Florence. The weather was neither gay nor dismal; the +country neither fine nor ugly; and your friend full as +indifferent as the scenes he looked at. Towards afternoon, +a thunderstorm gave character to the landscape, and we entered a +narrow vale enclosed by rocks, with streams running at their +base. Poplars with faded yellow leaves sprung from the +margins of the rivulets, which seemed to lose themselves in the +ruins of a castle, built in the Gothic times. Our road led +through its court and passed the ancient keep, still darkened by +its turrets; a few mud cottages are scattered about the opening +where formerly the chieftain exercised his vassals, and trained +them to war. The dungeon, once filled with miserable +victims, serves only at present to confine a few goats, which +were milking before its entrance. As we were driven along +under a tottering gateway, and then through a plain and up a +hill, the breeze whispering amongst the fern which covers it, I +felt the sober autumnal cast of the evening bring back the happy +hours I passed last year at this very time, calm and +sequestered. Full of these recollections, my eyes closed of +their own accord, and were not opened for many hours; in short, +till we entered Sienna.</p> +<p><i>October</i> 27<i>th</i>.—Here my duty of course was +to see the cathedral, and I got up much earlier than I wished, in +order to perform it. I wonder our holy ancestors did not +choose a mountain at once, scrape it into shrines, and chisel it +into scripture stories. It would have cost them almost as +little trouble as the building in question, which may certainly +be esteemed a masterpiece of ridiculous taste and elaborate +absurdity. The front, incrusted with alabaster, is worked +into a million of fretted arches and puzzling ornaments. +There are statues without number and relievos without end.</p> +<p>The church within is all of black and white marble +alternately; the roof blue and gold, with a profusion of silken +banners hanging from it; and a cornice running above the +principal arcade, composed entirely of bustos representing the +whole series of sovereign pontiffs, from the first Bishop of Rome +to Adrian the Fourth. Pope Joan figured amongst them, +between Leo the Fourth and Benedict the Third, till the year +1600, when she was turned out, at the instance of Clement the +Eighth, to make room for Zacharias the First.</p> +<p>I hardly knew which was the nave, or which the cross aisle, of +this singular edifice, so perfect is the confusion of its +parts. The pavement demands attention, being inlaid so +curiously as to represent variety of histories taken from Holy +Writ, and designed in the true style of that hobgoblin tapestry +which used to bestare the halls of our ancestors. Near the +high altar stands the strangest of pulpits, supported by polished +pillars of granite, rising from lions’ backs, which serve +as pedestals. In every corner of the place some chapel or +other offends or astonishes you. That, however, of the +Chigi family, it must be allowed, has infinite merit with respect +to design and execution; but it is so lost in general disorder as +to want the best part of its effect.</p> +<p>From the church one enters a vaulted chamber, erected by the +Picolominis, filled with valuable missals most exquisitely +illuminated. The paintings in fresco on the walls are +rather barbarous, though executed after the designs of the mighty +Raffaelle; but then, we must remember, he had but just escaped +from Pietro Perugino.</p> +<p>Not staying long in the Duomo, we left Sienna in good time; +and, after being shaken and tumbled in the worst roads that were +ever pretended to be made use of, found ourselves beneath the +rough mountains round Radicofani, about seven o’clock on a +cold and dismal evening. Up we toiled a steep craggy +ascent, and reached at length the inn upon its summit. My +heart sunk when I entered a vast range of apartments, with high +black rafted roofs, once intended for a hunting palace of the +Grand Dukes, but now desolate and forlorn. The wind having +risen, every door began to shake, and every board substituted for +a window to clatter, as if the severe power who dwells on the +topmost peak of Radicofani, according to its village +mythologists, was about to visit his abode. My only spell +to keep him at a distance was kindling an enormous fire, whose +charitable gleams cheered my spirits, and gave them a quicker +flow. Yet, for some minutes, I never ceased looking, now to +the right, now to the left, up at the dark beams, and down the +long passages, where the pavement, broken up in several places, +and earth newly strewn about, seemed to indicate that something +horrid was concealed below.</p> +<p>A grim fraternity of cats kept whisking backwards and forwards +in these dreary avenues, which I am apt to imagine is the very +identical scene of a sabbath of witches at certain periods. +Not venturing to explore them, I fastened my door, pitched my bed +opposite the hearth, which glowed with embers, and crept under +the coverlids, hardly venturing to go to sleep, lest I should be +suddenly roused from it by the sudden glare of torches, and be +more initiated than I wished into the mysteries of the place.</p> +<p>Scarce was I settled, before two or three of the brotherhood +just mentioned stalked in at a little opening under the +door. I insisted upon their moving off faster than they had +entered, suspecting that they would soon turn wizards, and was +surprised, when midnight came, to hear nothing more than their +mewings, doleful enough, and echoed by the hollow walls and +arches.</p> +<h2>LETTER XXI.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><span +class="smcap">Radicofani</span>, <i>October</i> 28<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>I begin to despair of magical adventures, since none happened +at Radicofani, which Nature seems wholly to have abandoned. +Not a tree, not an acre of soil, has she bestowed upon its +inhabitants, who would have more excuse for practising the gloomy +art than the rest of mankind. I was very glad to leave +their black hills and stony wilderness behind, and, entering the +Papal territory, to see some shrubs and corn-fields at a +distance, near Aquapadente, which is situated on a ledge of +cliffs, mantled with chestnut copses and tufted ilex. The +country grew varied and picturesque. St. Lorenzo, the next +post, built upon a hill, overlooks the lake of Bolsena, whose +woody shores conceal many ruined buildings. We passed some +of them in a retired vale, with arches from rock to rock, and +grottos beneath half lost in thickets, from which rise craggy +pinnacles crowned by mouldering towers; just such scenery as +Polemburg and Peter de Laer introduce in their paintings.</p> +<p>Beyond these truly Italian prospects, which a mellow evening +tint rendered still more interesting, a forest of oaks presents +itself upon the brows of hills, which extends almost the whole +way to Monte Fiascone. It was late before we ascended +it. The whole country seems full of inhabited caverns, that +began as night drew on to shine with fires. We saw many +dark shapes glancing before them, and perhaps a subterraneous +people like the Cimmerians lurk in their recesses. As we +drew near Viterbo, the lights in the fields grew less and less +frequent; and when we entered the town, all was total +darkness.</p> +<p>To-morrow I hope to pay my vows before the high altar of St. +Peter, and tread the Vatican. Why are you not here to usher +me into the imperial city: to watch my first glance of the +Coliseo: and lead me up the stairs of the Capitol? I shall +rise before the sun, that I may see him set from Monte +Cavallo.</p> +<h2>LETTER XXII.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Rome</span>, +<i>October</i> 29<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>We set out in the dark. Morning dawned over the Lago di +Vico; its waters of a deep ultramarine blue, and its surrounding +forests catching the rays of the rising sun. It was in vain +I looked for the cupola of St. Peter’s upon descending the +mountains beyond Viterbo. Nothing but a sea of vapours was +visible.</p> +<p>At length they rolled away, and the spacious plains began to +show themselves, in which the most warlike of nations reared +their seat of empire. On the left, afar off, rises the +rugged chain of Apennines, and on the other side, a shining +expanse of ocean terminates the view. It was upon this vast +surface so many illustrious actions were performed, and I know +not where a mighty people could have chosen a grander +theatre. Here was space for the march of armies, and verge +enough for encampments. Levels for martial games, and room +for that variety of roads and causeways that led from the capital +to Ostia. How many triumphant legions have trodden these +pavements! how many captive kings! What throngs of cars and +chariots once glittered on their surface! savage animals dragged +from the interior of Africa; and the ambassadors of Indian +princes, followed by their exotic train, hastening to implore the +favour of the senate!</p> +<p>During many ages, this eminence commanded almost every day +such illustrious scenes; but all are vanished: the splendid +tumult is passed away; silence and desolation remain. +Dreary flats thinly scattered over with ilex, and barren hillocks +crowned by solitary towers, were the only objects we perceived +for several miles. Now and then we passed a few black +ill-favoured sheep feeding by the way-side, near a ruined +sepulchre, just such animals as an ancient would have sacrificed +to the Manes. Sometimes we crossed a brook, whose ripplings +were the only sounds which broke the general stillness, and +observed the shepherds’ huts on its banks, propped up with +broken pedestals and marble friezes. I entered one of them, +whose owner was abroad tending his herds, and began writing upon +the sand, and murmuring a melancholy song. Perhaps the dead +listened to me from their narrow cells. The living I can +answer for: they were far enough removed.</p> +<p>You will not be surprised at the dark tone of my musings in so +sad a scene, especially as the weather lowered; and you are well +acquainted how greatly I depend upon skies and sunshine. +To-day I had no blue firmament to revive my spirits; no genial +gales, no aromatic plants to irritate my nerves and give me at +least a momentary animation. Heath and furze were the sole +vegetation which covers this endless wilderness. Every +slope is strewed with the relics of a happier period; trunks of +trees, shattered columns, cedar beams, helmets of bronze, skulls +and coins, are frequently dug up together.</p> +<p>I cannot boast of having made any discoveries, nor of sending +you any novel intelligence. You knew before how perfectly +the environs of Rome were desolate, and how completely the Papal +government contrives to make its subjects miserable. But +who knows that they were not just as wretched in those boasted +times we are so fond of celebrating? All is doubt and +conjecture in this frail existence; and I might as well attempt +proving to whom belonged the mouldering bones which lay dispersed +around me, as venture to affirm that one age is more fortunate +than another. Very likely the poor cottager, under whose +roof I reposed, is happier than the luxurious Roman upon the +remains of whose palace, perhaps, his shed is raised: and yet +that Roman flourished in the purple days of the empire, when all +was wealth and splendour, triumph and exultation.</p> +<p>I could have spent the whole day by the rivulet, lost in +dreams and meditations; but recollecting my vow, I ran back to +the carriage and drove on. The road not having been mended, +I believe, since the days of the Cæsars, would not allow +our motions to be very precipitate. “When you gain +the summit of yonder hill, you will discover Rome,” said +one of the postillions: up we dragged; no city appeared. +“From the next,” cried out a second; and so on from +height to height did they amuse my expectations. I thought +Rome fled before us, such was my impatience, till at last we +perceived a cluster of hills with green pastures on their +summits, inclosed by thickets and shaded by flourishing +ilex. Here and there a white house, built in the antique +style, with open porticos, that received a faint gleam of the +evening sun, just emerged from the clouds and tinting the meads +below. Now domes and towers began to discover themselves in +the valley, and St. Peter’s to rise above the magnificent +roofs of the Vatican. Every step we advanced the scene +extended, till, winding suddenly round the hill, all Rome opened +to our view.</p> +<p>A spring flowed opportunely into a marble cistern close by the +way; two cypresses and a pine waved over it. I leaped up, +poured water upon my hands, and then, lifting them up to the +sylvan Genii of the place, implored their protection. I +wished to have run wild in the fresh fields and copses above the +Vatican, there to have remained till fauns might creep out of +their concealment, and satyrs begin to touch their flutes in the +twilight, for the place looks still so wondrous classical, that I +can never persuade myself either Constantine Attila or the Popes +themselves have chased them all away. I think I should have +found some out, who would have fed me with milk and chestnuts, +have sung me a Latian ditty, and mourned the woeful changes which +have taken place, since their sacred groves were felled, and +Faunus ceased to be oracular. Who can tell but they would +have given me some mystic skin to sleep on, that I might have +looked into futurity?</p> +<p>Shall I ever forget the sensations I experienced upon slowly +descending the hills, and crossing the bridge over the Tiber; +when I entered an avenue between terraces and ornamented gates of +villas, which leads to the Porto del Popolo, and beheld the +square, the domes, the obelisk, the long perspective of streets +and palaces opening beyond, all glowing with the vivid red of +sunset? You can imagine how I enjoyed my beloved tint, my +favourite hour, surrounded by such objects. You can fancy +me ascending Monte Cavallo, leaning against the pedestal which +supports Bucephalus; then, spite of time and distance, hurrying +to St. Peter’s in performance of my vow.</p> +<p>I met the Holy Father in all his pomp returning from vespers: +trumpets flourishing, and a legion of guards drawn out upon Ponte +St. Angelo. Casting a respectful glance upon the Moles +Adriani, I moved on till the full sweep of St. Peter’s +colonnade opened upon me, and fixed me, as if spell-bound, under +the obelisk, lost in wonder. The edifice appears to have +been raised within the year, such is its freshness and +preservation. I could hardly take my eyes from off the +beautiful symmetry of its front, contrasted with the magnificent +though irregular courts of the Vatican towering over the +colonnade, till, the sun sinking behind the dome, I ran up the +steps and entered the grand portal, which was on the very point +of being closed.</p> +<p>I knew not where I was, or to what scene transported. A +sacred twilight concealing the extremities of the structure, I +could not distinguish any particular ornament, but enjoyed the +effect of the whole. No damp air or fetid exhalation +offended me. The perfume of incense was not yet entirely +dissipated. No human being stirred. I heard a door +close with the sound of thunder, and thought I distinguished some +faint whisperings, but am ignorant whence they came. +Several hundred lamps twinkled round the high altar, quite lost +in the immensity of the pile. No other light disturbed my +reveries but the dying glow still visible through the western +windows. Imagine how I felt upon finding myself alone in +this vast temple at so late an hour, and think whether I had not +revelations.</p> +<p>It was almost eight o’clock before I issued forth, and, +pausing a few minutes under the porticos, listened to the rush of +the fountains: then traversing half the town, I believe, in my +way to the Villa Medici, under which I am lodged, fell into a +profound repose, which my zeal and exercise may be allowed, I +think, to have merited.</p> +<p><i>October</i> 30<i>th</i>.—It was a clear morning; I +mounted up to the roof of the house, and sat under a set of open +pavilions, surveying the vast group of stately buildings below; +then repaired immediately after breakfast to St. Peter’s, +which even exceeded the height of my expectations. I could +hardly quit it. I wish his Holiness would allow me to erect +a little tabernacle under the dome. I should desire no +other prospect during the winter; no other sky than the vast +arches glowing with golden ornaments, so lofty as to lose all +glitter or gaudiness. But I cannot say I should be +perfectly contented, unless I could obtain another pavilion for +you. Thus established, we would take our evening walks on +the field of marble; for is not the pavement vast enough to +excuse the extravagance of the appellation? Sometimes, +instead of climbing a mountain, we should ascend the cupola, and +look down on our little encampment below. At night I should +wish for a constellation of lamps dispersed about in clusters, +and so contrived as to diffuse a mild and equal light for us to +read or draw by. Music should not be wanting: one day to +breathe in the subterraneous chapels, another to mount high into +the dome.</p> +<p>The doors should be closed, and not a mortal admitted. +No priests, no cardinals: God forbid! We should have all +the space to ourselves, and to such creatures, too, as resemble +us.</p> +<p>The windows I should shade with transparent curtains of yellow +silk, to admit the glow of perpetual summer. Lanterns, as +many as you please, of all forms and sizes; they would remind us +of China, and, depending from the roof of the palace, bring +before us that of the Emperor Ki, which was twice as large as St. +Peter’s (if we may credit the grand annals), and lighted +alone by tapers, for his Imperial Majesty, being tired of the +sun, would absolutely have a new firmament of his own creation, +and an artificial day. Was it not a rare fantastic +idea? For my part, I should like of all things to immure +myself after his example, with those I love; forget the divisions +of time, have a moon at command, and a theatrical sun to rise and +set at pleasure.</p> +<p>I was so absorbed in my imaginary palace, and exhausted with +contriving plans for its embellishment, as to have no spirits +left for the Pantheon, which I visited late in the evening, and +entered with a reverence approaching to superstition. The +whiteness of the dome offending me, I slunk into one of the +recesses, closed my eyes, transported myself into antiquity; then +opened them again, tried to persuade myself the pagan gods were +in their niches, and the saints out of the question; was vexed at +coming to my senses, and finding them all there, St. Andrew with +his cross, and St. Agnes with her lamb, etc., etc. Then I +paced disconsolately into the portico, which shows the name of +Agrippa on its pediment. I leaned a minute against a +Corinthian column; I lamented that no pontiff arrived with +victims and aruspices, of whom I might inquire, what, in the name +of birds and garbage, put me so terribly out of humour! for you +must know I was very near being disappointed, and began to think +Piranesi and Paolo Panini had been a great deal too colossal in +their view of this venerable structure. I left the column, +walked to the centre of the temple, and, folding my arms, stood +as fixed as a statue. Some architects have celebrated the +effect of light from the opening above, and pretended it to be +distributed around so as to give those who walk beneath the +appearance of mystic substances beaming with radiance. +Mighty fine, if that were the case! I appeared, to be sure, +a luminous figure, and never stood I more in need of something to +distinguish me, being forlorn and dismal in the supreme +degree.</p> +<p>But though it is not so immense as I had expected, yet a +certain venerable air, an awful gloom, breathed inspiration, +though of the sorrowful kind.</p> +<p>I had expected a heap of Venetian letters, but could not +discover one. I had received no intelligence from England +this many a tedious day; and for aught I can tell to the +contrary, you may have been dead these three weeks. I think +I shall wander soon in the Catacombs, which I am half inclined to +imagine communicate with the lower world; and perhaps I may find +some letter there from you, lying upon a broken sarcophagus, +dated from the realms of Night, and giving an account of your +descent into her bosom. Yet, I pray continually, +notwithstanding my curiosity to learn what passes in the dark +regions beyond the tomb, that you will condescend to remain a few +years longer on our planet; for what would become of me, should I +lose sight of you for ever? Stay, therefore, as long as you +can, and let us have the delight of dozing a little more of this +poor existence away together, and steeping ourselves in pleasant +dreams.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p231b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Modern Rome" +title= +"Modern Rome" + src="images/p231s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><i>October</i> 31<i>st</i>.—I absolutely will have no +antiquary to go prating from fragment to fragment, and tell me, +that were I to stay five years at Rome, I should not see half it +contained. The thought alone, of so much to look at, is +quite distracting, and makes me resolve to view nothing at all in +a scientific way; but straggle and wander about, just as the +spirit chooses. This evening, it led me to the Coliseo, and +excited a vehement desire in me to break down and pulverize the +whole circle of saints’ nests and chapels, which disgrace +the arena. You recollect, I dare say, the vile effect of +this holy trumpery, and would join with all your heart in kicking +it into the Tiber. A few lazy abbots were at their +devotions before them; such as would have made a lion’s +mouth water; fatter, I dare say, than any saint in the whole +martyrology, and ten times more tantalizing. I looked +first, at the dens where wild beasts used to be kept, to divert +the magnanimous people of Rome with devastation and murder; then, +at the tame cattle before the altars. Heavens! thought I to +myself, how times are changed! Could ever Vespasian have +imagined his amphitheatre would have been thus inhabited? I +passed on, making these reflections, to a dark arcade, overgrown +with ilex. In the openings which time and violence have +made, a distant grove of cypresses discover themselves; springing +from heaps of mouldering ruins, relieved by a clear transparent +sky, strewed with a few red clouds. This was the sort of +prospect I desired, and I sat down on a shattered frieze to enjoy +it. Many stories of ancient Rome thronged into my mind as I +mused; triumphal scenes, but tempered by sadness, and the awful +thoughts of their being all passed away. It would be in +vain to recapitulate the ideas which chased one another +along. Think where I sat, and you may easily conjecture the +series. When the procession was fleeted by (for I not only +thought, but seemed to see warriors moving amongst the cypresses, +and consuls returning from Parthian expeditions, loaded with +strange spoils, and received with the acclamations of millions +upon entering the theatre), I arose, crossed the arena, paced +several times round and round, looked up to arcade rising above +arcade, and admiring the stately height and masses of the +structure, considered it in various points of view, and felt, as +if I never should be satisfied with gazing, hour after hour, and +day after day. Next, directing my steps to the arch of +Constantine, I surveyed the groups of ruins which surrounded +me. The cool breeze of the evening played in the beds of +canes and osiers which flourished under the walls of the Coliseo: +a cloud of birds were upon the wing to regain their haunts in its +crevices; and, except the sound of their flight, all was silent; +for happily no carriages were rattling along. I observed +the palace and obelisk of St. John of Lateran, at a distance; but +it was too late to take a nearer survey; so, returning leisurely +home, I traversed the Campo Vaccino, and leaned a moment against +one of the columns which supported the temple of Jupiter +Stator. Some women were fetching water from the fountain +hard by, whilst another group had kindled a fire under the shrubs +and twisted fig-trees, which cover the Palatine Hill. +Innumerable vaults and arches peep out of the vegetation. +It was upon these, in all probability, the splendid palace of the +Cæsars was raised. Confused fragments of marble, and +walls of lofty terraces, are the sole traces of its ancient +magnificence. A wretched rabble were roasting their +chestnuts, on the very spot, perhaps, where Domitian convened a +senate, to harangue upon the delicacies of his +entertainment. The light of the flame cast upon the figures +around it, and the mixture of tottering wall with foliage +impending above their heads, formed a striking picture, which I +stayed contemplating from my pillar, till the fire went out, the +assembly dispersed, and none remained but a withered hag, raking +the embers, and muttering to herself. I thought also it was +high time to retire, lest the unwholesome mists, which were +streaming from the opening before the Coliseo, might make me +repent my stay. Whether they had already taken effect, or +no, I will not absolutely determine; but something or other had +grievously disordered me. A few centuries ago I should have +taxed the old hag with my headache, and have attributed the +uncommon oppression I experienced to her baleful power. +Hastening to my hotel, I mounted into the open portico upon its +summit, nearly upon a level with the Villa Medici, and sat, +several hours, with my arms folded in one another, listening to +the distant rumours of the town. It had been a fine moment +to have bestrode one of the winds which piped around me, +offering, no doubt, some compact from Lucifer.</p> +<p><i>November</i> 1<i>st</i>.—Though you find I am not yet +snatched away from the earth, according to my last night’s +bodings, I was far too restless and dispirited to deliver my +recommendatory letters. St. Carlos, a mighty day of gala at +Naples, was an excellent excuse for leaving Rome, and indulging +my roving disposition. After spending my morning at St. +Peter’s, we set off about four o’clock, and drove by +the Coliseo and a Capuchin convent, whose monks were all busied +in preparing the skeletons of their order, to figure by +torchlight in the evening. St. John’s of Lateran +astonished me. I could not help walking several times round +the obelisk, and admiring the noble open space in which the +palace is erected, and the extensive scene of towers and +aqueducts discovered from the platform in front.</p> +<p>We went out at the Porta Appia, and began to perceive the +plains which surround the city opening on every side. Long +reaches of walls and arches, but seldom interrupted, stretch +across them. Sometimes, indeed, a withered pine, lifting +itself up to the mercy of every blast that sweeps the champagne, +breaks their uniformity. Between the aqueducts to the left, +nothing but wastes of fern, or tracts of ploughed lands, dark and +desolate, are visible, the corn not being yet sprung up. On +the right, several groups of ruined fanes and sepulchres +diversify the levels, with here and there a garden or woody +inclosure. Such objects are scattered over the landscape, +that towards the horizon bulges into gentle ascents, and, rising +by degrees, swells at length into a chain of mountains, which +received the pale gleams of the sun, setting in watery +clouds.</p> +<p>By this uncertain light we discovered the white buildings of +Albano, sprinkled about the steeps. We had not many moments +to contemplate them, for it was night when we passed the Torre di +mezza via, and began breathing a close pestilential vapour. +Half suffocated, and recollecting a variety of terrifying tales +about the malaria, we advanced, not without fear, to Veletri, and +hardly ventured to fall asleep when arrived there.</p> +<p><i>November</i> 2<i>nd</i>.—I arose at daybreak, and +forgetting fevers and mortalities, ran into a level meadow +without the town, whilst the horses were putting to the +carriage. Why should I calumniate the air? it seemed purer +and more transparent than any I had before inhaled. The +mountains were covered with thin mists, and the morning star +sparkled above their summits. Birds were twittering amongst +some sheds and bushes, which border the sides of the road. +A chestnut hung over it, against which I leaned till the chaise +came up. Being perfectly alone, and not discovering any +trace of the neighbouring city, I fancied myself existing in the +ancient days of Hesperia, and hoped to meet Picus in his woods +before the evening. But, instead of those shrill clamours +which used to echo through the thickets when Pan joined with +mortals in the chase, I heard the rumbling of our carriage, and +the curses of its postillions. Mounting a horse, I flew +before them, and seemed to catch inspiration from the +breezes. Now I turned my eyes to the ridge of precipices, +in whose grots and caverns Saturn and his people passed their +life; then to the distant ocean. Afar off rose the cliffs, +so famous for Circe’s incantations, and the whole line of +coast, which was once covered with her forests.</p> +<p>Whilst I was advancing with full speed, the sunbeams began to +shoot athwart the mountains, the plains to light up by degrees, +and their shrubberies of myrtle to glisten with dewdrops. +The sea brightened, and the Circean rock soon glowed with +purple. I never felt my spirits so exhilarated, and they +could not have flowed with more vivacity, even had I tasted the +cup which Helen gave Telemachus. You will think me gone +wild when I tell you I was, in a manner, drunk with the dews of +the morning, and so enraptured with the prospects which lay +before me as to address them in verse, and compose charms to +dispel the enchantments of Circe. All day were we +approaching her rock; towards evening Terracina appeared before +us, in a bold romantic site; house above house, and turret +looking over turret, on the steeps of a mountain, inclosed with +mouldering walls, and crowned by the ruined terraces of a +delightful palace: one of those, perhaps, which the luxurious +Romans inhabited during the summer, when so free and lofty an +exposition (the sea below, with its gales and murmurs) must have +been exquisitely agreeable. Groves of orange and citron +hang on the declivity, rough with the Indian fig, whose bright +red flowers, illuminated by the sun, had a magic splendour. +A palm-tree, growing on the highest crag, adds not a little to +its singular appearance. Being the largest I had ever seen, +and clustered with fruit, I climbed up the rocks to take a close +survey of it, and found a spring trickling near its fount, +bordered by fresh herbage. On this I stretched myself on +the very edge of the precipice, and looking down upon the beach, +and glassy plains of ocean, exclaimed with Martial:</p> +<blockquote><p>“O nemua! O fentes! solidumque +madentis arenæ<br /> +Littus, et æquoreis splendidus Anxur aquis!”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Glancing my eyes athwart the sea, I fixed them on the Circean +promontory, which lies right opposite to Terracina, joined to the +continent by a very narrow strip of land, and appearing like an +island. The roar of the waves lashing the base of the +precipices, might still be thought the howl of savage monsters; +but where are those woods which shaded the dome of the +goddess? Scarce a tree appears. A few thickets, and +but a few, are the sole remains of this once impenetrable +vegetation; yet even these I longed to visit, such was my +predilection for the spot.</p> +<p>Who knows but Circe might have led me to some other palace, in +a more secret and retired vale, where she dwells remote from +modern mariners, and the present inhabitants of her environs; +universally changed to swine for these many ages? Their +metamorphoses being so thoroughly established as to leave no +further pretence for her operations, I can imagine her given up +to solitude, and the consciousness of her potent influence. +Notwithstanding the risks of the adventure, I wished to have +attempted it, and seen whether she would have allowed me, as +night came on, to warm myself by her cedar fire, and hear her +captivating song. Perhaps, had the goddess been propitious, +I might have culled some herbs of wondrous efficacy. You +recollect, I dare say, how renowned the cliff was for them, and +remember that Circe’s attendants, deeply skilled, like +their mistress, in pharmacy, were continually gathering plants in +the woods and wilds which enriched her abode. It was thus +the companions of Ulysses found them employed, when, entering her +palace, they unwarily drank the beverage she offered. Ovid +has told this story in a masterly manner, and formed a lively +picture of the magic dome, with the occupations of its +inhabitants. We see them judiciously arranging their +plants, whilst Circe directs and points out, with the nicest +discernment, the simple and compound virtues of every flower.</p> +<p>Descending the cliff, and pursuing our route to Mola along the +shore, by a grand road formed on the ruins of the Appian, we +drove under an enormous perpendicular rock, standing detached, +like a watch-tower, and cut into arsenals and magazines. +Day closed just as we got beyond it, and a new moon gleamed +faintly on the waters. We saw fires afar off in the bay, +some twinkling on the coast, others upon the waves, and heard the +murmur of voices; for the night was still and solemn, like that +of Cajetas’s funeral. I looked anxiously on a sea, +where the heroes of the Odyssey and Æneid had sailed in +search of fate and empire, then closed my eyes, and dreamed of +those illustrious wanderers.</p> +<p>Nine struck when we arrived at Mola di Cajeta. The boats +were just coming in (whose lights we had seen out upon the main), +and brought such fish as Neptune, I dare say, would have grudged +Æneas and Ulysses.</p> +<p><i>November</i> 3<i>rd</i>.—The morning was soft, but +hazy. I walked in a grove of oranges, white with blossoms, +and at the same time glowing with fruit, some of which I obtained +leave to gather. The spot sloped pleasantly towards the +sea, and here I amused myself with my agreeable occupation till +the horses were ready, then set off on the Appian, between hedges +of myrtle and aloes, catching fresh gales from the sea as I flew +along, and breathing the perfume of an aromatic vegetation, which +covers the fields on the shore. We observed variety of +towns, with battlemented walls and ancient turrets, crowning the +pinnacles of rocky steeps, surrounded by wilds, and rude +uncultivated mountains. The Liris, now Garigliano, winds +its peaceful course through wide extensive meadows, scattered +over with the remains of aqueducts, and waters the base of the +rocks I have just mentioned. Such a prospect could not fail +of bringing Virgil’s panegyric of Italy full in my +mind:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Tot congesta manu præruptis oppida +saxis<br /> +Fluminaque antiquos suhterlabentia muros.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>As soon as we arrived in sight of Capua, the sky darkened, +clouds covered the horizon, and presently poured down such +deluges of rain as floated the whole country. The gloom was +general; Vesuvius disappeared just after we had the pleasure of +discovering it; lightning began to flash with dreadful rapidity, +and people to run frightened to their houses. At four +o’clock darkness universally prevailed, except when a livid +glare of lightning presented momentary glimpses of the bay and +mountains. We lighted torches, and forded several torrents +almost at the hazard of our lives. The fields round Naples +were filled with herds, lowing most piteously, and yet not half +so much scared as their masters, who ran about cursing and +swearing like Indians during the eclipse of the moon. I +knew Vesuvius had often put their courage to proof, but little +thought of an inundation occasioning such commotions.</p> +<p>For three hours the storm increased in violence, and instead +of entering Naples on a calm evening, and viewing its delightful +shores by moonlight—instead of finding the squares and +terraces thronged with people and animated by music, we advanced +with fear and terror through dark streets totally deserted, every +creature being shut up in their houses, and we heard nothing but +driving rain, rushing torrents, and the fall of fragments beaten +down by their violence. Our inn, like every other +habitation, was in great disorder, and we waited a long while +before we could settle in our apartments with any comfort. +All night the waves roared round the rocky foundations of a +fortress beneath my windows, and the lightning played clear in my +eyes. I could not sleep, and was full as disturbed as the +elements.</p> +<p><i>November</i> 4<i>th</i>.—Peace was restored to nature +in the morning, but every mouth was full of the dreadful +accidents which had happened in the night. The sky was +cloudless when I awoke, and such was the transparence of the +atmosphere that I could clearly discern the rocks, and even some +white buildings on the island of Caprea, though at the distance +of several miles. A large window fronts my bed, and its +casements being thrown open, gives me a vast prospect of ocean, +uninterrupted except by the peaks of Caprea and the Cape of +Sorento. I lay half an hour gazing on the smooth level +waters, and listening to the confused voices of the fishermen, +passing and repassing in light skiffs, which came and disappeared +in an instant.</p> +<p>Running to the balcony the moment my eyes were fairly open +(for till then I saw objects, I know not how, as one does in +dreams), I leaned over its rails, and viewed Vesuvius rising +distinct into the blue ether, with all that world of gardens and +casinos which are scattered about its base; then looked down into +the street, deep below, thronged with people in holiday garments, +and carriages, and soldiers in full parade. The woody, +variegated shore of Posilipo next drew my attention. It was +on those very rocks, under those tall pines, Sannazaro was wont +to sit by moonlight, or at peep of dawn, holding converse with +the Nereids. ’Tis there he still sleeps; and I wished +to have gone immediately and strewed coral over his tomb, but I +was obliged to check my impatience, and hurry to the palace in +form and gala.</p> +<p>A courtly mob had got thither upon the same errand, daubed +over with lace and most notably be-periwigged. Nothing +but—bows and salutations were going forward on the +staircase, one of the largest I ever beheld, and which a +multitude of prelates and friars were ascending in all the pomp +of awkwardness. I jostled along to the presence chamber, +where his Majesty was dining alone in a circular inclosure of +fine clothes and smirking faces. The moment he had +finished, twenty long necks were poked forth, and it was a +glorious struggle amongst some of the most decorated who first +should kiss his hand. Doing so was the great business of +the day, and everybody pressed forward to the best of their +abilities. His Majesty seemed to eye nothing but the end of +his nose, which is doubtless a capital object.</p> +<p>Though people have imagined him a weak monarch, I beg leave to +differ in opinion, since he has the boldness to prolong his +childhood and be happy, in spite of years and conviction. +Give him a boar to stab, and a pigeon to shoot at, a battledore +or an angling rod, and he is better contented than Solomon in all +his glory, and will never discover, like that sapient sovereign, +that all is vanity and vexation of spirit.</p> +<p>His courtiers in general have rather a barbaric appearance, +and differ little in the character of their physiognomies from +the most savage nations. I should have taken them for +Calmucks or Samoieds, had it not been for their dresses and +European finery.</p> +<p>You may suppose I was not sorry, after my presentation was +over, to return to Sir W.’s and hear Lady H. play, whose +music breathes the most pastoral Sicilian ideas, and transports +me to green meads on the sea-coast, where I wander with +Theocritus.</p> +<p>The evening was passing swiftly away in this delightful +excursion of fancy, and I had almost forgotten there was a grand +illumination at the theatre of St. Carlo. After traversing +a number of dark streets, we suddenly entered this enormous +edifice, whose six rows of boxes blazed with tapers. I +never beheld such lofty walls of light, nor so pompous a +decoration as covered the stage. Marchesi was singing in +the midst of all these splendours some of the poorest music +imaginable, with the clearest and most triumphant voice, perhaps, +in the universe.</p> +<p>It was some time before I could look to any purpose around me, +or discover what animals inhabited this glittering world: such +was its size and glare. At last I perceived vast numbers of +ugly beings, in gold and silver raiment, peeping out of their +boxes. The court being present, a tolerable silence was +maintained, but the moment his Majesty withdrew (which great +event took place at the beginning of the second act) every tongue +broke loose, and nothing but buzz and hubbub filled up the rest +of the entertainment.</p> +<p>The last ballet, formed upon the old story of “Le Festin +de Pierre,” had wonderful effect, and terminated in the +most striking perspective of the infernal region. Picq +danced incomparably, and Signora Rossi led the Fandango, with a +grace and activity that pleased me beyond idea. Music was +never more rapturous than that which accompanies this +dance. It quite enchanted me, and I longed to have sprung +upon the stage. The cadence is so strongly marked by the +castanets, that it is almost impossible to be out of time; and +the rapidity of steps and varied movements scarcely allows a +moment to think of being tired. I should imagine the +eternal dance, with which certain tribes of American savages +think they are to be rewarded in a future existence, might be +formed somewhat on this model. Indeed the Fandango arrived +in Spain with the conquerors of the other hemisphere, and is far +too lively and extatic to be of European original.</p> +<p><i>November</i> 6<i>th</i>.—Till to-day we have had +nothing but rains; the sea covered with mists, and Caprea +invisible. Would you believe it? I have not yet been +able to mount to St. Elmo and the Capo di Monte, in order to take +a general view of the town.</p> +<p>At length a bright gleam of sunshine roused me from my +slumbers, and summoned me to the broad terrace of Chiaja, +directly above the waters and commanding the whole coast of +Posilipo. Insensibly I drew towards it, and (you know the +pace I run when out upon discoveries) soon reached the entrance +of the grotto, which lay in dark shades, whilst the crags that +lower over it were brightly illumined. Shrubs and vines +grow luxuriantly in the crevices of the rock; and their fresh +yellow colours, variegated with ivy, have a beautiful +effect. To the right a grove of pines sprung from the +highest pinnacles: on the left, bay and chestnut conceal the tomb +of Virgil, placed on the summit of a cliff which impends over the +opening of the grotto, and is fringed with a florid +vegetation. Beneath are several wide apertures hollowed in +the solid stone, which lead to caverns sixty or seventy feet in +depth, where a number of peasants, who were employed in +quarrying, made such a noise with their tools and their voices as +almost inclined me to wish the Cimmerians would start from their +subterraneous habitations, and sacrifice these profane to the +Manes.</p> +<p>Walking out of the sunshine, I seated myself on a loose stone +immediately beneath the first gloomy arch of the grotto, and +looking down the vast and solemn perspective, terminated by a +speck of grey uncertain light, venerated a work which some old +chroniclers have imagined as ancient as the Trojan war. +’Twas here the mysterious race I have just mentioned +performed their infernal rites, and it was this excavation +perhaps which led to their abode.</p> +<p>The Neapolitans attribute a more modern, though full as +problematical an origin to their famous cavern, and most piously +believe it to have been formed by the enchantments of Virgil, +who, as Mr. Addison very justly observes, is better known at +Naples in his magical character, than as the author of the +Æneid. This strange infatuation most probably arose +from the vicinity of the tomb, in which his ashes are supposed to +have been deposited; and which, according to popular tradition, +was guarded by those very spirits who assisted in constructing +the cave. But whatever may have given rise to these ideas, +certain it is they were not confined to the lower ranks +alone. King Robert, <a name="citation240"></a><a +href="#footnote240" class="citation">[240]</a> a wise though far +from poetical monarch, conducted his friend Petrarch with great +solemnity to the spot; and, pointing to the entrance of the +grotto, very gravely asked him, whether he did not adopt the +general belief, and conclude this stupendous passage derived its +origin from Virgil’s powerful incantations? The +answer, I think, may easily be conjectured.</p> +<p>When I had sat for some time, contemplating this dusky avenue, +and trying to persuade myself that it was hewn by the Cimmerians, +I retreated without proceeding any farther, and followed a narrow +path which led me, after some windings and turnings, along the +brink of the precipice, across a vineyard, to that retired nook +of the rocks which shelters Virgil’s tomb, most venerably +mossed over, and more than half concealed by bushes and +vegetation. Drops of dew were distilling from the niches of +the little chamber, which once contained his urn, and heaps of +withered leaves had gathered on the pavement. Amongst these +I crept to eat some grapes and biscuits, having duly scattered a +few crumbs as a sort of offering to the invisible guardians of +the place. I believe they were sensible of my piety, and, +as a reward, kept vagabonds and clowns away.</p> +<p>The one who conducted me remained aloof at awful distance, +whilst I sat commercing with the manes of my beloved poet, or +straggling about the shrubbery which hangs directly above the +mouth of the grot. I wonder I did not visit the eternal +shades sooner that I expected, for no squirrel ever skipped from +bough to bough more venturously. One instant I climbed up +the branches of a chestnut, and sat almost on its extremity, my +feet impending over the chasm below; another I boldly advanced to +the edge of the rock, and saw crowds of people and carriages, +diminished by distance, issuing from the bosom of the mountain, +and disappearing almost as soon as discovered in the windings of +its road. Having clambered high above the cavern, I +hazarded my neck on the top of one of the pines, and looked +contemptuously down on the race of pigmies that were so busily +moving to and fro. The sun was fiercer than I could have +wished, but the sea-breezes fanned me in my aërial +situation, which commanded the grand sweep of the bay, varied by +convents, palaces, and gardens, mixed with huge masses of rock +and crowned by the stately buildings of the Carthusians and +fortress of St. Elmo. Add a glittering blue sea to this +perspective, with Caprea rising from its bosom, and Vesuvius +breathing forth a white column of smoke into the ether, and you +will then have a scene upon which I gazed with delight, for more +than an hour, almost forgetting that I was perched upon the head +of a pine, with nothing but a frail branch to uphold me. +However, I descended alive, as Virgil’s genii, I am +resolved to believe, were my protectors.</p> +<h2>LETTER XXIII.</h2> +<p><i>November</i> 8<i>th</i>.—This morning I awoke in the +glow of sunshine; the air blew fresh and fragrant; never did I +feel more elastic and enlivened. A brisker flow of spirits +than I had for many a day experienced, animated me with a desire +of rambling about the shore of Baii, and creeping into caverns +and subterraneous chambers. Off I set along Chiaja, and up +strange paths which impend over the grotto of Posilipo, amongst +the thickets mentioned a letter or two ago; for in my present +lively humour, I disdained ordinary roads, and would take paths +and ways of my own. A society of kids did not understand +what I meant by intruding upon their precipices; and scrambling +away, scattered sand and fragments upon the good people that were +trudging along the pavement below.</p> +<p>I went on from pine to pine, and thicket to thicket, upon the +brink of rapid declivities. My conductor, a shrewd savage, +whom Sir William had recommended to me, cheered our route with +stories that had passed in the neighbourhood, and traditions +about the grot over which we were travelling. I wish you +had been of the party, and sat down by us on little smooth spots +of sward, where I reclined, scarcely knowing which way caprice +was leading me. My mind was full of the tales of the place, +and glowed with a vehement desire of exploring the world beyond +the grot. I longed to ascend the promontory of Misenus, and +follow the same dusky route down which the Sibyl conducted +Æneas.</p> +<p>With these dispositions I proceeded; and soon the cliffs and +copses opened to views of the Baian bay, with the little isles of +Niscita and Lazaretto lifting themselves out of the waters. +Procita and Ischia appeared at a distance, invested with that +purple bloom so inexpressibly beautiful, and peculiar to this +fortunate climate. I hailed the prospect and blessed the +transparent air that gave me life and vigour to run down the +rocks, and hie as fast as my savage across the plain to +Puzzoli. There we took bark and rowed out into the blue +ocean, by the remains of a sturdy mole: many such, I imagine, +adorned the bay in Roman ages crowned by vast lengths of slender +pillars; pavilions at their extremities, and taper cypresses +spiring above their balustrades: this character of villa occurs +very frequently in the paintings of Herculaneum.</p> +<p>We had soon crossed the bay, and landing on a bushy coast, +near some fragments of a temple which they say was raised to +Hercules, advanced into the country by narrow tracks covered with +moss and strewed with shining pebbles; to the right and left, +broad masses of luxuriant foliage, chestnut, bay, and ilex, that +shelter the ruins of columbariums and sepulchral chambers, where +the dead sleep snug amongst rampant herbage. The region was +still, save when a cock crew from the hamlets, which, as well as +the tombs, are almost concealed by thickets. No parties of +smart Englishmen and connoisseurs were about. I had all the +land to myself, and mounted its steeps and penetrated into its +recesses, with the importance of a discoverer. What a +variety of narrow paths, between banks and shades, did I wildly +follow! my savage laughing loud at my odd gestures and useless +activity. He wondered I did not scrape the ground for +medals, and pocket little bits of plaster, like other plausible +young travellers that had gone before me.</p> +<p>After ascending some time, I followed him into the Piscina +Mirabilis, the wondrous reservoir which Nero constructed to +supply his fleet, when anchored in the neighbouring bay. +’Tis a grand labyrinth of solid vaults and pillars, as you +well know, but you cannot conceive the partial gleams of sunshine +which played on the arches, nor the variety of roots and ivies +trailing from the cove. A noise of trickling waters +prevailed, that had almost lulled me to sleep as I rested myself +on the celandine which carpets the floor; but curiosity urging me +forward, I gained the upper air; walked amongst woods a few +minutes, and then into grots and dismal excavations (prisons they +call them), which began to weary me.</p> +<p>After having gone up and down in this manner for some time, we +at last reached an eminence that looked over the Mare Morto, and +Elysian fields trembling with poplars. The Dead Lake, a +faithful emblem of eternal tranquillity, looked deep and +solemn. A few peasants were passing along its margin, their +shadows reflected on the water: all was serene and +peaceful. Turning from the lake I espied a rock at about a +league distant, whose summit was clad with verdure, and finding +this to be the promontory of Misenus, I immediately set my face +to that quarter.</p> +<p>We passed several dirty villages, inhabited by an ill-favoured +generation, infamous for depredations and murders. Their +gardens, however, discover some marks of industry; the fields are +separated by neat hedges of cane, and corn seemed to flourish in +the inclosures.</p> +<p>I walked on with slowness and deliberation, musing at every +step, and stopping ever and anon to rest myself by springs and +tufted bay-trees; when insensibly we began to leave the +cultivated lands behind us, and to lose ourselves in shady wilds, +which, to all appearance, no mortal had ever trodden. Here +were no paths, no enclosures; a primeval rudeness characterized +the whole scene,—</p> +<blockquote><p> “Juvat arva videre,<br /> +Non rastris, hominum non ulli obnoxia curæ.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The idea of going almost out of the world, soothed the tone of +mind into which a variety of affecting recollections had thrown +me. I formed conjectures about the promontory to which we +were tending; and when I cast my eyes around the savage +landscape, transported myself four thousand years into antiquity, +and half persuaded myself I was one of Æneas’s +companions. After forcing our way about a mile through +glades of shrubs and briars, we entered a verdant opening at the +base of the cliff which takes its name from Misenus. The +poets of the Augustan age would have celebrated such a meadow +with the warmest raptures; they would have discovered a nymph in +every flower, and detected a dryad under every tree. +Doubtless imagination never formed a lovelier prospect. +Here were clear streams and grassy hillocks, leafy shrubs and +cypresses spiring out of their bosom,—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Et circum irriguo surgebant lilia prato<br +/> +Candida purpureis mista papaveribus.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>But as it is not the lot of human animals to be contented, +instead of reposing in the vale, I scaled the rock, and was three +parts dissolved in attaining its summit,—a flat spot +covered with herbage, where I lay contemplating the ocean, and +fanned by its breezes. The sun darted upon my head; I +wished to avoid its immediate influence: no tree was near. +Deep below lay the pleasant valley: ’twas a long way to +descend. Looking round and round, I spied something like a +hut, under a crag on the edge of a dark fissure. Might I +avail myself of its covert? My conductor answered in the +affirmative, and added that it was inhabited by a good old woman, +who never refused a cup of milk, or slice of bread, to refresh a +weary traveller.</p> +<p>Thirst and fatigue urged me speedily down an intervening slope +of stunted myrtle. Though oppressed with heat, I could not +help deviating a few steps from the direct path to notice the +uncouth rocks which rose frowning on every quarter. Above +the hut, their appearance was truly formidable; dark ivy crept +among the crevices, and dwarf aloes with sharp spines, such as +Lucifer himself might be supposed to have sown. Indeed, I +knew not whether I was not approaching some gate that leads to +his abode, as I drew near a gulph (the fissure lately mentioned) +and heard the hollow gusts which were imprisoned below. The +savage, my guide, shuddered as he passed by to apprise the old +woman of my coming. I felt strangely, and stared around me, +and but half liked my situation. To say truth, I wished +myself away, and heartily regretted the green vale.</p> +<p>In the midst of my doubts, forth tottered the old woman. +“You are welcome,” said she, in a feeble voice, but a +better dialect than I had heard in the neighbourhood. Her +look was more humane, and she seemed of a superior race to the +inhabitants of the surrounding valleys. My savage treated +her with peculiar deference. She had just given him some +bread, with which he retired to a respectful distance, bowing to +the earth. I caught the mode, and was very obsequious, +thinking myself on the point of experiencing a witch’s +influence, and gaining, perhaps, some insight into the volume of +futurity. She smiled at my agitation, and kept beckoning me +into the cottage.</p> +<p>“Now,” thought I to myself, “I am upon the +verge of an adventure. O Quixote! O Sylvio di +Rosalva! how would ye have strutted in such a situation! +What fair Infantas would ye not have expected to behold, +condemned to spinning wheels, and solitude?” I, alas! +saw nothing but clay walls, a straw bed, some glazed earthen +bowls, and a wooden crucifix. My shoes were loaded with +sand: this my hostess perceived, and immediately kindling a fire +in an inner part of the hovel, brought out some warm water to +refresh my feet, and set some milk and chestnuts before me. +This patriarchal politeness was by no means indifferent after my +tiresome ramble. I sat down opposite to the door which +fronted the unfathomable gulph; beyond appeared the sea, of a +deep cerulean, foaming with waves. The sky also was +darkening apace with storms. Sadness came over me like a +cloud, and I looked up to the old woman for consolation.</p> +<p>“And you too are sorrowful, young stranger,” said +she, “that come from the gay world! How must I feel, +who pass year after year in these lonely mountains?” +I answered that the weather affected me, and my spirits were +exhausted by the walk.</p> +<p>All the while I spoke she looked at me with such a melancholy +earnestness that I asked the cause, and began again to imagine +myself in some fatal habitation,</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">“Where more is +meant than meets the ear.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Said she, “Your features are wonderfully like those of +an unfortunate young person, who, in this retirement . . . +” The tears began to fall as she pronounced these +words; she seemed older than before, and bent to the ground with +sorrow. My curiosity was fired. “Tell +me,” continued I, “what you mean? who was this youth +for whom you are so interested? and why did he seclude himself in +this wild region? Your kindness might no doubt alleviate, +in some measure, the horrors of the place; but may God defend me +from passing the night near such a gulph! I would not trust +myself in a despairing moment.”</p> +<p>“It is,” said she, “a place of +horrors. I tremble to relate what has happened on this very +spot; but your manner interests me, and though I am little given +to narrations, for once I will unlock my lips concerning the +secrets of yonder fatal chasm.</p> +<p>“I was born in a distant part of Italy, and have known +better days. In my youth fortune smiled upon my family, but +in a few years they withered away; no matter by what +accident. I am not going, however, to talk of myself. +Have patience a few moments! A series of unfortunate events +reduced me to indigence, and drove me to this desert, where, from +rearing goats and making their milk into cheese, by a different +method than is common in the Neapolitan State, I have, for about +thirty years, prolonged a sorrowful existence. My silent +grief and constant retirement had made me appear to some a saint, +and to others a sorceress. The slight knowledge I have of +plants has been exaggerated, and, some years back, the hours I +gave up to prayer, and the recollection of former friends, lost +to me for ever! were cruelly intruded upon by the idle and the +ignorant. But soon I sank into obscurity; my little recipes +were disregarded, and you are the first stranger who, for these +twelve months past, has visited my abode. Ah, would to God +its solitude had ever remained inviolate!</p> +<p>“It is now three-and-twenty years,” and she looked +upon some characters cut on the planks of the cottage, +“since I was sitting by moonlight, under that cliff you +view to the right, my eyes fixed on the ocean, my mind lost in +the memory of my misfortunes, when I heard a step, and starting +up, a figure stood before me. It was a young man, in a rich +habit, with streaming hair, and looks that bespoke the utmost +terror. I knew not what to think of this sudden +apparition. ‘Mother,’ said he with faltering +accents, ‘let me rest under your roof; and deliver me not +up to those who thirst after my blood. Take this gold; take +all, all!’</p> +<p>“Surprise held me speechless; the purse fell to the +ground; the youth stared wildly on every side: I heard many +voices beyond the rocks; the wind bore them distinctly, but +presently they died away. I took courage, and assured the +youth my cot should shelter him. ‘Oh! thank you, +thank you!’ answered he, and pressed my hand. He +shared my scanty provision.</p> +<p>“Overcome with toil (for I had worked hard in the day), +sleep closed my eyes for a short interval. When I awoke the +moon was set, but I heard my unhappy guest sobbing in +darkness. I disturbed him not. Morning dawned, and he +was fallen into a slumber. The tears bubbled out of his +closed eyelids, and coursed one another down his wan +cheeks. I had been too wretched myself not to respect the +sorrows of another: neglecting therefore my accustomed +occupations, I drove away the flies that buzzed around his +temples. His breast heaved high with sighs, and he cried +loudly in his sleep for mercy.</p> +<p>“The beams of the sun dispelling his dream, he started +up like one that had heard the voice of an avenging angel, and +hid his face with his hands. I poured some milk down his +parched throat. ‘Oh, mother!’ he exclaimed, +‘I am a wretch unworthy of compassion; the cause of +innumerable sufferings; a murderer! a parricide!’ My +blood curdled to hear a stripling utter such dreadful words, and +behold such agonising sighs swell in so young a bosom; for I +marked the sting of conscience urging him to disclose what I am +going to relate.</p> +<p>“It seems he was of high extraction, nursed in the pomps +and luxuries of Naples, the pride and darling of his parents, +adorned with a thousand lively talents, which the keenest +sensibility conspired to improve. Unable to fix any bounds +to whatever became the object of his desires, he passed his first +years in roving from one extravagance to another, but as yet +there was no crime in his caprices.</p> +<p>“At length it pleased Heaven to visit his family, and +make their idol the slave of an unworthy passion. He had a +friend, who from his birth had been devoted to his interest, and +placed all his confidence in him. This friend loved to +distraction a young creature, the most graceful of her sex (as I +can witness), and she returned his affection. In the +exultation of his heart, he showed her to the wretch whose tale I +am about to tell. He sickened at her sight. She too +caught fire at his glances. They languished—they +consumed away—they conversed, and his persuasive language +finished what his guilty glances had begun.</p> +<p>“Their flame was soon discovered, for he disdained to +conceal a thought, however dishonourable. The parents +warned the youth in the tenderest manner; but advice and prudent +counsels were to him so loathsome, that unable to contain his +rage, and infatuated with love, he menaced the life of his friend +as the obstacle of his enjoyment. Coolness and moderation +were opposed to violence and frenzy, and he found himself treated +with a contemptuous gentleness. Stricken to the heart, he +wandered about for some time like one entranced. Meanwhile +the nuptials were preparing; and the lovely girl he had perverted +found ways to let him know she was about to be torn from his +embraces.</p> +<p>“He raved, and rousing his dire spirit, applied to a +malignant dæmon who sold the most inveterate poisons. +These he presented, like a cup of pure iced water, to his friend, +and to his own affectionate father. They drank the draught, +and soon began to pine. He marked the progress of their +dissolution with a horrid firmness. He let the moment pass +beyond which all antidotes were vain. His friend expired; +and the young criminal, though he beheld the dews of death hang +on his parent’s forehead, yet stretched not forth his +hand. In a short space the miserable father breathed his +last, whilst his son was sitting aloof in the same chamber.</p> +<p>“The sight overcame him. He felt, for the first +time, the pangs of remorse. His agitation passed not +unnoticed. He was watched: suspicions beginning to unfold, +he took alarm, and one evening escaped; but not without +previously informing the partner of his crimes which way he +intended to flee. Several pursued; but the inscrutable will +of Providence blinded their search, and I was doomed to behold +the effects of celestial vengeance.</p> +<p>“Such are the chief circumstances of the tale I gathered +from the youth. I swooned whilst he related it, and could +take no sustenance. One whole day afterwards did I pray the +Lord, that I might die rather than be near an incarnate +demon. With what indignation did I now survey that slender +form and those flowing tresses, which had interested me before so +much in his behalf!</p> +<p>“No sooner did he perceive the change in my countenance, +than sullenly retiring to yonder rock, he sat careless of the sun +and scorching winds; for it was now the summer solstice. +Equally was he heedless of the unwholesome dews. When +midnight came my horrors were augmented; and I meditated several +times to abandon my hovel, and fly to the next village; but a +power more than human chained me to the spot and fortified my +mind.</p> +<p>“I slept, and it was late next morning when some one +called at the wicket of the little fold, where my goats are +penned. I arose, and saw a peasant of my acquaintance +leading a female strangely muffled up, and casting her eyes on +the ground. My heart misgave me. I thought this was +the very maid who had been the cause of such unheard-of +wickedness. Nor were my conjectures ill-founded. +Regardless of the clown who stood by in stupid astonishment, she +fell to the earth and bathed my hand with tears. Her +trembling lips with difficulty inquired after the youth; and, as +she spoke, a glow of conscious guilt lightened up her pale +countenance.</p> +<p>“The full recollection of her lover’s crimes shot +through my memory. I was incensed, and would have spurned +her away; but she clung to my garments and seemed to implore my +pity with a look so full of misery, that, relenting, I led her in +silence to the extremity of the cliff where the youth was seated, +his feet dangling above the sea. His eye was rolling wildly +around, but it soon fixed upon the object for whose sake he had +doomed himself to perdition.</p> +<p>“I am not inclined to describe their ecstasies, or the +eagerness with which they sought each other’s +embraces. I turned indignantly my head; and, driving my +goats to a recess amongst the rocks, sat revolving in my mind +these strange events. I neglected procuring any provision +for my unwelcome guests; and about midnight returned homewards by +the light of the moon, which shone serenely in the heavens. +Almost the first object her beams discovered was the guilty maid +sustaining the head of her lover, who had fainted through +weakness and want of nourishment. I fetched some dry bread, +and, dipping it in milk, laid it before them. Having +performed this duty I set open the door of my hut, and retiring +to a neighbouring cavity, there stretched myself on a heap of +leaves, and offered my prayers to Heaven.</p> +<p>“A thousand fears, till this moment unknown, thronged +into my fancy. I mistook the shadow of leaves, that +chequered the entrance to the grot, for ugly reptiles, and +repeatedly shook my garments. The flow of the distant +surges was deepened by my apprehensions into distant groans: in a +word, I could not rest; but issuing from the cavern as hastily as +my trembling knees would allow, paced along the edge of the +precipice. An unaccountable impulse hurried my steps. +Dark clouds were driving across the sky, and the setting moon was +flushed with the deepest crimson. A wan gleam coloured the +sea. Such was my terror and shivering, that, unable to +advance to my hut or retreat to the cavern, I was about to shield +myself from the night in a sandy crevice, when a loud shriek +pierced my ear. My fears had confused me; I was in fact +hard by my hovel, and scarcely three paces from the brink of the +cavern: it was from thence the cries proceeded.</p> +<p>“Advancing in a cold shudder to its edge, part of which +was newly crumbled in, I discovered the form of the young man +suspended by one foot to a branch of juniper that grew ten feet +down: thus dreadfully did he hang over the gulph from the branch +bent with his weight. His features were distorted, his +eye-balls glared with agony, and his screams became so shrill and +terrible, that I lost all power of assistance. Fixed, I +stood with my eyes riveted upon the criminal, who incessantly +cried out, ‘O God! O Father! save me, if there be yet +mercy! save me, or I sink into the abyss!’</p> +<p>“I am convinced he saw me not; for not once did he +implore my help. My heart was dead within me. I +called out upon the Lord. His voice grew faint, and as I +gazed intent upon him, he fell into utter darkness. I sank +to the earth in a trance, during which a sound like the rush of +pennons assaulted my ear: methought the evil spirit was bearing +off his soul; I lifted up my eyes, but nothing stirred; the +stillness that prevailed was awful.</p> +<p>“The moon looked stained with streaks of blood; her orb +hanging low over the waves afforded a sickly light, by which I +perceived some one coming down that white cliff you see before +you; and soon I heard the voice of the young woman calling aloud +on her guilty lover. She stopped. She repeated again +and again her exclamation; but there was no reply. Alarmed +and frantic she hurried along the path, and now I saw her on the +promontory, and now by yonder pine, devouring with her glances +every crevice in the rock. At length perceiving me, she +flew to where I stood, by the fatal precipice, and having noticed +the fragments fresh crumbled in, pored importunately on my +countenance. I continued pointing to the chasm; she +trembled not; her tears could not flow; but she divined the +meaning. ‘He is lost!’ said she; ‘the +earth has swallowed him! but, as I have shared with him the +highest joy, so will I partake his torments. I will follow; +dare not to hinder me.’ I shrank back.</p> +<p>“Like the phantoms I have seen in dreams, she glanced +beside me; and, clasping her hands above her head, lifted a +steadfast look on the hemisphere, and viewed the moon with an +anxiousness that told me she was bidding it farewell for +ever. Observing a silken handkerchief on the ground, with +which she had but an hour ago bound her lover’s temples, +she snatched it up, and imprinting it with burning kisses, thrust +it into her bosom. Once more, expanding her arms in the +last act of despair and miserable passion, she threw herself, +with a furious leap, into the gulph.</p> +<p>“To its margin I crawled on my knees, and, shuddering, +looked down into the gloom. There I remained in the most +dreadful darkness; for now the moon was sunk, the sky obscured +with storms, and a tempestuous blast ranging the ocean. +Showers poured thick upon me, and the lightning, in clear and +frequent flashes, gave me terrifying glimpses of yonder accursed +chasm.</p> +<p>“Stranger, dost thou believe in the great Being? in our +Redeemer? in the tenets of our faith?” I answered +with reverence, but said I was no Catholic. +“Then,” continued the aged woman, “I will not +declare before a heretic what were the sacred visions of that +night of vengeance!” She paused; I was silent.</p> +<p>After a short interval, with deep and frequent sighs, she +resumed her narrative. “Daylight began to dawn as if +with difficulty, and it was late before its radiance had tinged +the watery and tempestuous clouds. I was still kneeling by +the gulph in prayer when the cliffs began to brighten, and the +beams of the morning sun to strike against me. Then did I +rejoice. Then no longer did I think myself of all human +beings the most abject and miserable. How different did I +feel myself from those, fresh plunged into the abodes of torment, +and driven for ever from the morning!</p> +<p>“Three days elapsed in total solitude: on the fourth, +some grave and ancient persons arrived from Naples, who +questioned me, repeatedly, about the wretched lovers, and to whom +I related their fate with every dreadful particular. Soon +after I learned that all discourse concerning them was expressly +stopped, and that no prayers were offered up for their +souls.”</p> +<p>With these words, as well as I recollect, the old woman ended +her singular narration. My blood thrilled as I walked by +the gulph to call my guide, who stood aloof under the +cliffs. He seemed to think, from the paleness of my +countenance, that I had heard some gloomy prediction, and shook +his head when I turned round to bid my old hostess adieu! +It was a melancholy evening, and I could not refrain from tears, +as, winding through the defiles of the rocks, the sad scenes +which had passed amongst them recurred to my memory.</p> +<p>Traversing a wild thicket, we soon regained the shore, where I +rambled a few minutes whilst the peasant went for the +boatmen. The last streaks of light were quivering on the +waters when I stepped into the bark, and wrapping myself up in an +awning, slept till we reached Puzzoli, some of whose inhabitants +came forth with torches to light us home.</p> +<p>I was vexed to be roused from my visions, and had much rather +have sunk in some deep cave of the Cimmerians than returned to +Naples.</p> +<h2>LETTER XXIV.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Naples</span>, +<i>November</i> 9<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>We made our excursion to Pompeii, passing through Portici, and +over the last lava of Mount Vesuvius. I experienced a +strange mixture of sensations, on surveying at once the mischiefs +of the late eruption, in the ruin of villages, farms, and +vineyards; and all around them the most luxuriant and delightful +scenery of nature. It was impossible to resist the +impressions of melancholy from viewing the former, or not to +admit that gaiety of spirits which was inspired by the sight of +the latter. I say nothing of the Museum at Portici, which +we saw in our way, on account of the ample description of its +contents already given to the public, and because it should be +described no otherwise than by an exact catalogue, or by an +exhibition of engravings. An hour and half brought us from +this celebrated repository to Pompeii. Nothing can be +conceived more delightful than the climate and situation of this +city. It stands upon a gently-rising hill, which commands +the bay of Naples, with the islands of Caprea and Ischia, the +rich coasts of Sorento, the tower of Castel a Mare; and on the +other side, Mount Vesuvius, with the lovely country +intervening. It is judged to be about an Italian mile long, +and three and a half in circuit. We entered the city at the +little gate which lies towards Stabiæ. The first +object upon entering is a colonnade round a square court, which +seems to have formed a place of arms. Behind the colonnade +is a series of little rooms, destined for the soldiers’ +barracks. The columns are of stone, plaistered with stucco +and coloured. On several of them we found names scratched +in Greek and Latin; probably those of the soldiers who had been +quartered there. Helmets and armour for various parts of +the body were discovered amongst the skeletons of some soldiers, +whose hard fate had compelled them to wait on duty, at the +perilous moment of the city’s approaching +destruction. Dolphins and tridents, sculptured in relief on +most of these relics of armour, seem to show that they had been +fabricated for naval service. Some of the sculptures on the +arms, probably belonging to officers, exhibit a greater variety +of ornaments. The taking of Troy, wrought on one of the +helmets, is beautifully executed; and much may be said in +commendation of the work of several others.</p> +<p>We were next led to the remains of a temple and altar near +these barracks. From thence to some rooms floored (as +indeed were almost all that have been cleared from the rubbish) +with tesselated mosaic pavements of various patterns, and most of +them of very excellent execution. Many of these have been +taken up, and now form the floors of the rooms in the Museum at +Portici, whose best ornaments of every kind are furnished from +the discoveries at Pompeii. From the rooms just mentioned +we descended into a subterraneous chamber, communicating with a +bathing apartment. It appears to have served as a kind of +office to the latter. It was probably here that the clothes +used in bathing were washed. A fireplace, a capacious +cauldron of bronze, and earthen vessels, proper for that purpose, +found here, have given rise to the conjecture. Contiguous +to this room is a small circular one with a fireplace, which was +the stove to the bath. I should not forget to tell you that +the skeleton of the poor laundress (for so the antiquaries will +have it), who was very diligently washing the bathing clothes at +the time of the eruption, was found lying in an attitude of most +resigned death, not far from the washing cauldron in the office +just mentioned.</p> +<p>We were now conducted to the temple, or rather chapel, of +Isis. The chief remains are a covered cloister; the great +altar on which was probably exhibited the statue of the goddess; +a little edifice to protect the sacred well; the pediment of the +chapel, with a symbolical vase in relief; ornaments in stucco, on +the front of the main building, consisting of the lotus, the +sistrum, representations of gods, Harpocrates, Anubis, and other +objects of Egyptian worship. The figures on one side of +this temple are Perseus with the Gorgon’s head; on the +other side, Mars and Venus, with Cupids bearing the arms of +Mars. We next observe three altars of different +sizes. On one of them is said to have been found the bones +of a victim unconsumed, the last sacrifice having probably been +stopped by the dreadful calamity which had occasioned it. +From a niche in the temple was taken a statue of marble: a woman +pressing her lips with her forefinger. Within the area is a +well, where the priest threw the ashes of the sacrifices. +We saw in the Museum at Portici some lovely arabesque paintings, +cut from the walls of the cloister. The foliage which ran +round the whole sweep of the cloister itself is in the finest +taste. A tablet of basalt with Egyptian hieroglyphics was +transported from thence to Portici, together with the following +inscription, taken from the front gate of the chapel:</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center"><span +class="GutSmall">N. POPIDUS N. F. CELSINUS.</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AEDEM ISIDIS TERRAE MOTU +COLLAPSAM</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">A FUNDAMENTO P. SUA +RESTITUIT</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">HUNC DECURIONES OB LIBERALITATEM</span><br +/> +<span class="GutSmall">CUM ESSET ANNORUM SEX ORDINI SUO</span><br +/> +<span class="GutSmall">GRATIS ADLEGERUNT.</span></p> +</blockquote> +<p>Behind one of the altars we saw a small room, in which, our +guide informed us, a human skeleton had been discovered, with +some fish bones on a plate near it, and a number of other +culinary utensils. We then passed on to another apartment, +almost contiguous, where nothing more remarkable had been found +than an iron crow: an instrument with which perhaps the +unfortunate wretch, whose skeleton I have mentioned above, had +vainly endeavoured to extricate herself, this room being probably +barricaded by the matter of the eruption. This temple, +rebuilt, as the inscription imports, by N. Popidius, had been +thrown down by a terrible earthquake, that likewise destroyed a +great part of the city (sixteen years before the famous eruption +of Vesuvius described by Pliny, which happened in the first year +of Titus, <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 79) and buried at +once both Herculaneum and Pompeii. As I lingered alone in +these environs sacred to Isis, some time after my companions had +quitted them, I fell into one of those reveries which my +imagination is so fond of indulging; and transporting myself +seventeen hundred years back, fancied I was sailing with the +elder Pliny, on the first day’s eruption, from Misenum, +towards Retina and Herculaneum; and afterwards towards the villa +of his friend Pomponianus at Stabiæ. The course of +our galley seldom carried us out of sight of Pompeii, and as +often as I could divert my attention from the tremendous +spectacle of the eruption, its enormous pillar of smoke standing +conically in the air, and tempests of liquid fire continually +bursting out from the midst of it, then raining down the sides of +the mountain, and flooding this beautiful coast with innumerable +streams of red-hot lava, methought I turned my eyes upon this +fair city, whose houses, villas, and gardens, with their long +ranges of columned courts and porticos, were made visible through +the universal cloud of ashes, by lightning from the mountain; and +saw its distracted inhabitants, men, women, and children, running +to and fro in despair. But in one spot, I mean the court +and precincts of the temple, glared a continual light. It +was the blaze of the altars; towards which I discerned a +long-robed train of priests moving in solemn procession, to +supplicate by prayer and sacrifice, at this destructive moment, +the intervention of Isis, who had taught the first fathers of +mankind the culture of the earth, and other arts of civil +life. Methought I could distinguish in their hands all +those paintings and images, sacred to this divinity, brought out +on this portentous occasion, from the subterraneous apartments +and mystic cells of the temple. There was every form of +creeping thing and abominable beast, every Egyptian pollution +which the true prophet had seen in vision, among the secret +idolatries of the temple at Jerusalem. The priests arrived +at the altars; I saw them gathered round, and purifying the three +at once with the sacred meal; then, all moving slowly about them, +each with his right hand towards the fire: it was the office of +some to seize the firebrands of the altars, with which they +sprinkled holy water on the numberless bystanders. Then +began the prayers, the hymns, and lustrations of the +sacrifice. The priests had laid the victims with their +throats downward upon the altars; were ransacking the baskets of +flour and salt for the knives of slaughter, and proceeding in +haste to the accomplishment of their pious ceremonies;—when +one of our company, who thought me lost, returned with +impatience, and calling me off to some new object, put an end to +my strange reverie. We were now summoned to pay some +attention to the scene and corridor of a theatre, not far from +the temple. Little more of its remains being yet cleared +away, we hastened back to a small house and garden in the +neighbourhood of Isis. Sir W. Hamilton (in his account of +Pompeii communicated to the Society of Antiquaries), when +speaking of this house, having taken occasion to give a general +idea of the private mansions of the ancient citizens, I shall +take the liberty of transcribing the whole passage. +“A covered cloister, supported by columns, goes round the +house, as was customary in many of the houses at Pompeii. +The rooms in general are very small, and in one, where an iron +bedstead was found, the wall had been pared away to make room for +this bedstead; so that it was not six feet square, and yet this +room was most elegantly painted, and had a tesselated or mosaic +floor. The weight of the matter erupted from Mount Vesuvius +has universally damaged the upper parts of the houses; the lower +parts are mostly found as fresh as at the moment they were +buried. The plan of most of the houses at Pompeii is a +square court, with a fountain in the middle, and small rooms +round, communicating with that court. By the construction +and distribution of the houses, it seems, the inhabitants of +Pompeii were fond of privacy. They had few windows towards +the street, except where, from the nature of the plan, they could +not avoid it; but even in that case the windows were placed too +high for anyone in the streets to overlook them. Their +houses nearly resemble each other, both as to distribution of +plan, and in the manner of finishing the apartments. The +rooms are in general small, from ten to twelve feet, and from +fourteen to eighteen feet; few communications between room and +room, almost all without windows, except the apartments situated +to the gardens, which are thought to have been allotted to the +women. Their cortiles, or courts, were often surrounded by +porticos, even in very small houses; not but there were covered +galleries before the doors of their apartments to afford shade +and shelter. No timber was used in finishing their +apartments, except in doors and windows. The floors were +generally laid in mosaic work. One general taste prevailed +of painting the sides and ceilings of the rooms. Small +figures and medallions of low relief were sometimes +introduced. Their great variety consisted in the colours, +and in the choice and delicacy of the ornaments, in which they +displayed great harmony and taste. Their houses were some +two, others three stories high.”</p> +<p>We now pursued our way through what is with some probability +thought to have been the principal street. Its narrowness, +however, surprised me. It is scarcely eleven feet wide, +clear of the footways raised on each side of it. The +pavement is formed of a large sort of flattish-surfaced pebbles; +not laid down with the greatest evenness or regularity. The +sideways may be about a yard wide, each paved, irregularly +enough, with small stones. There are guard stones at equal +intervals, to defend the foot passengers from carriages and +horses. I cannot say I found anything either elegant or +pleasant in the effect of this open street. But, as the +houses in general present little more than a dead wall towards +it, I do not imagine any views, beyond mere use and convenience, +were consulted in the plan. It led us, however, through the +principal gate or entrance, to a sort of Villa Rustica, without +the limits of the city, which amply recompensed our +curiosity. The arcade surrounding a square garden, or +courtyard, offers itself first to the observer’s +notice. Into this open a number of coved rooms, adorned +with paintings of figures and arabesques. These rooms, +though small, have a rich and elegant appearance, their ornaments +being very well executed, and retaining still their original +freshness. On the top of the arcade runs a walk or open +terrace, leading to the larger apartments of the higher +story. One of the rooms below has a capacious bow-window, +where several panes of glass, somewhat shattered, were found, but +in sufficient preservation to show that the ancients were not +without knowledge of this species of manufacture. As Horace +and most of the old Latin Poets dwell much on the praises of +ancient conviviality, and appear to have valued themselves +considerably on their connoisseurship in wine, it was with great +pleasure I descended into the spacious cellars, sunk and vaulted +beneath the arcade above-mentioned. Several earthen +amphoræ were standing in rows against the walls, but the +Massic and Falernian with which they were once stored, had +probably long been totally absorbed by the earth and ashes, which +were now the sole contents of these venerable jars. The +ancients are thought to have used oil, instead of corks, and that +the stoppers were of some matter that could make but little +resistance, seems confirmed by the entrance of that, which now +supplied the place with wine. The skeletons of several of +the family who had possessed this villa were discovered in the +cellar, together with brass and silver coins, and many such +ornaments of dress as were of more durable materials. On +re-ascending, we went to the hot and cold baths; thence to the +back of the villa, separated by a passage from the more elegant +part of the house; we were shown some rooms which had been +occupied by the farmer, and from whence several implements of +agriculture had been carried, to enrich the collection at +Portici. On the whole, the plan and construction of this +villa are extremely curious, and its situation very happily +chosen. I could not, however, help feeling some regret, in +not having had the good fortune to be present at the first +discovery. It must have been highly interesting to see all +its ancient relics (the greatest part of which are now removed) +each in its proper place; or, at least, in the place they had +possessed for so long a course of years. His Sicilian +Majesty has ordered a correct draught of this villa to be taken, +which, it is hoped, will one day be published, with a complete +account of all the discoveries at Pompeii.</p> +<p>Our next walk was to see the Columbarium, a very solemn +looking edifice, where probably the families of higher rank only +at Pompeii, deposited the urns of their deceased kindred. +Several of these urns, with their ashes, and one among the rest +of glass, inclosed in another of earth, were dug out of the +sepulchral vaults. A quantity of marble statues, of but +ordinary execution, and colossal masks of terra-cotta, +constituted the chief ornaments of the Columbarium. It is +situated without the gates, on the same side of the city as the +villa just described. There is something characteristically +sad in its aspect. It threw my mind into a melancholy, but +not disagreeable tone. Under the mixed sentiments it +inspired, I cast one lingering look back on the whole affecting +scene of ruins, over which I had for several hours been rambling, +and quitted it to return to Naples, not without great +reluctance.</p> +<h2>LETTER XXV.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Rome</span>, +<i>December</i> 9<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>My last letter was despatched in such a hurry that I had not +time to conclude it. This will be nearly as imperfect; but +yet I cannot forbear writing, having the vanity to believe that +you are pleased with hearing only that I am well.</p> +<p>Your friend H. walked with me this morning in the Loggios of +Raffaelle, and we went afterwards to the Capitol. Nothing +delighted me more in the whole treasury of sculptures, than a +figure in alto relievo of Endymion, reclined on the +mountain’s brow: his head falls upon his breast with an +ease and gracefulness, of which the Greeks alone had ever a true +conception. Most of the chambers, if you recollect, are +filled with the elegant remains of Adrian’s +collection. The villa of that classic emperor at Tivoli, +must have been the most charming of structures. Having +travelled into various and remote parts of his empire, he +assembled their most valuable ornaments on one spot. Some +of his apartments were filled with the mysterious images and +symbols of Egypt: others with Eastern tripods and strange +Adriatic vases. Though enraptured with St. Peter’s +and the Vatican, with the gardens and groves of pine, that +surround this interesting city, still I cannot help sighing after +my native hills and copses, which look (I know not how it +happens) more like the haunts of Pan than any I have seen in +Italy. I eagerly anticipate the placid hours we shall pass, +perhaps next summer, on the wild range which belongs to our +sylvan deities. In their deep fastnesses I will hide myself +from the world, and never allow its glare to bicker through my +foliage. You will follow me, I trust, into retirement, and +equally forget the turmoils of mankind. What have we +children of the good Sylvanus to do with the miseries or triumphs +of the savages that prowl about London? Let us forget there +exists such a city, and when reposing amongst ivy and blossoms of +bloom, imagine ourselves in the ancient dominions of Saturn, and +dream that we see him pass along with his rustic attendants.</p> +<h2>LETTER XXVI.</h2> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Augsburg</span>, +<i>January</i> 20<i>th</i>, 1781.</p> +<p>For these ten days past have I been traversing Lapland: winds +whistling in my ears, and cones showering down upon my head from +the wilds of pine through which our route conducted us. +Often were we obliged to travel by moonlight, and I leave you to +imagine the awful aspect of the Tyrol mountains buried in +snow.</p> +<p>I scarcely ventured to utter an exclamation of surprise, +though prompted by some of the most striking scenes in nature, +lest I should interrupt the sacred silence that prevails, during +winter, in these boundless solitudes. The streams are +frozen, and mankind petrified, for aught I know to the contrary, +since whole days have we journeyed on without perceiving the +slightest hint of their existence.</p> +<p>I never before felt the pleasure of discovering a smoke rising +from a cottage, or of hearing a heifer lowing in its stall; and +could not have supposed there was so much satisfaction in +perceiving two or three fur caps, with faces under them, peeping +out of their concealments. I wish you had been with me, +exploring this savage region: wrapped up in our bear-skins, we +should have followed its secret avenues, and penetrated, perhaps, +into some enchanted cave lined with sables, where, like the +heroes of northern romances, we should have been waited upon by +dwarfs, and sung drowsily to repose. I think it no bad +scheme to sleep away five or six years to come, since every hour +affairs are growing more and more turbulent. Well, let +them! provided we may enjoy, in security, the shades of our +thickets.</p> +<h2>ADDITIONAL LETTERS.</h2> +<p>[The following Letters, written in a second Excursion, which +was interrupted by a dangerous illness, are added on account of +their affinity to some of the preceding.]</p> +<h3>LETTER I.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Cologne</span>, +<i>May</i> 28<i>th</i>, 1782.</p> +<p>This is the first day of summer; the oak leaves expand, the +roses blow, butterflies are about, and I have spirits enough to +write to you. We have had clouded skies this fortnight +past, and roads like the Slough of Despond. Last Wednesday +we were benighted on a dismal plain, apparently boundless. +The moon cast a sickly gleam, and now and then a blue meteor +glided along the morass which lay before us.</p> +<p>After much difficulty we gained an avenue, and in an +hour’s time discovered something like a gateway, shaded by +crooked elms and crowned by a cluster of turrets. Here we +paused and knocked; no one answered. We repeated our +knocks; the stout oaken gate returned a hollow sound; the horses +coughed, their riders blew their horns. At length the bars +fell, and we entered—by what means I am ignorant, for no +human being appeared.</p> +<p>A labyrinth of narrow winding alleys, dark as the vaults of a +cathedral, opened to our view. We kept wandering along, at +least twenty minutes, between lofty mansions with grated windows, +and strange galleries, projecting one over another, from which +depended innumerable uncouth figures and crosses, in iron-work, +swinging to and fro with the wind. At the end of this +gloomy maze we found a long street, not fifteen feet wide, I am +certain; the houses still loftier than those in the alleys, the +windows thicker barred, and the gibbets (for I know not what else +to call them) more frequent. Here and there we saw lights +glimmering in the highest stories, and arches on the right and +left, which seemed to lead into retired courts and deeper +darkness.</p> +<p>Along one of these recesses we were jumbled, over such +pavement as I hope you may never tread upon; and, after parading +round it, went out at the same arch whence we came in. This +procession seemed at first very mystical, but it was too soon +accounted for by our postillions, who confessed they had lost +their way. A council was held amongst them in form, and +then we struck into another labyrinth of hideous edifices, +habitations I will not venture to call them, as not a creature +stirred; though the rumbling of our carriages was echoed by all +the vaults and arches.</p> +<p>Towards midnight we rested a few minutes, and a head poking +out of a casement directed us to the hotel of Der Heilige Geist, +where an apartment, thirty feet square, was prepared for our +reception.</p> +<h3>LETTER II.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Inspruck</span>, +<i>June</i> 4<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>No sooner had we passed Fuezen than we entered the Tyrol, and +the country of wonders. Those lofty peaks, those steeps of +wood I delight in, lay before us. Innumerable clear springs +gush out on every side, overhung by luxuriant shrubs in +blossom. The day was mild, though overcast, and a soft blue +vapour rested upon the hills, above which rise mountains that +bear plains of snow into the clouds.</p> +<p>At night we lay at Nasariet, a village buried amongst savage +promontories. The next morning we advanced, in bright +sunshine, into smooth lawns on the slopes of mountains, scattered +over with larches, whose delicate foliage formed a light green +veil to the azure sky. Flights of birds were merrily +travelling from spray to spray. I ran delighted into this +world of boughs, whilst C. sat down to draw the huts which are +scattered about for the shelter of herds, and discover themselves +amongst the groves in the most picturesque manner.</p> +<p>These little edifices are uncommonly neat, and excite those +ideas of pastoral life to which I am so fondly attached. +The turf from whence they rise is enamelled, in the strict sense +of the word, with flowers. A sort of bluebell predominated, +brighter than ultramarine; here and there auriculas looked out of +the moss, and I often reposed upon tufts of ranunculus. +Bushes of phillerea were very frequent, the sun shining full on +their glossy leaves. An hour passed away swiftly in these +pleasant groves, where I lay supine under a lofty fir, a tower of +leaves and branches.</p> +<h3>LETTER III.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Padua</span>, +<i>June</i> 14<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>Once more, said I to myself, I shall have the delight of +beholding Venice; so got into an open chaise, the strangest +curricle that ever man was jolted in, and drove furiously along +the causeways by the Brenta, into whose deep waters it is a +mercy, methinks, I was not precipitated. Fiesso, the Dolo, +the Mira, with all their gardens, statues, and palaces, seemed +flying after each other, so rapid was our motion.</p> +<p>After a few hours’ confinement between close steeps, the +scene opened to the wide shore of Fusina. I looked up (for +I had scarcely time to look before) and beheld a troubled sky, +shot with vivid red, the Lagunes tinted like the opal, and the +islands of a glowing flame-colour. The lofty mountains of +the distant continent appeared of a deep melancholy grey, and +innumerable gondolas were passing to and fro in all their +blackness. The sun, after a long struggle, was swallowed up +in the tempestuous clouds.</p> +<p>In an hour we drew near to Venice, and saw its world of domes +rising out of the waters. A fresh breeze bore the toll of +innumerable bells by my ear. Sadness came over me as I +entered the great canal, and recognised (the scene of many a +strange adventure) those solemn palaces, with their lofty arcades +and gloomy arches, beneath which I had so often sat.</p> +<p>The Venetians being mostly at their villas on the Brenta, the +town appeared deserted. I visited, however, all my old +haunts in the Place of St. Mark, ran up the Campanile, and rowed +backwards and forwards, opposite the Ducal Palace, by +moonlight. They are building a spacious quay, near the +street of the Sclavonians, fronting the island of San Giorgio +Maggiore, where I remained alone at least an hour, following the +wanderings of the moon amongst mountainous clouds, and listening +to the waters dashing against marble steps.</p> +<p>I closed my evening at my friend M. de R.’s, and sung +over the airs I composed in the dawn of our acquaintance.</p> +<p>Next morning the wind was uncommonly violent for the mild +season of June, and the canals much agitated; but I was +determined to visit the Lido once more, and bathe on my +accustomed beach. The pines in the garden of the +Carthusians were nodding as I passed by in my gondola, which was +very poetically buffeted by the waves.</p> +<p>Traversing the desert of locusts, I hailed the Adriatic, and +plunged into its bosom. The sea, delightfully cool, +refreshed me to such a degree, that, upon my return to Venice, I +found myself able to thread its labyrinths of streets, canals, +and alleys, in search of amber and Oriental curiosities. +The variety of exotic merchandize, the perfume of coffee, the +shade of awnings, and the sight of Greeks and Asiatics sitting +crossed-legged under them, made me think myself in the bazaars of +Constantinople.</p> +<p>’Tis certain my beloved town of Venice ever recalls a +series of Eastern ideas and adventures. I cannot help +thinking St. Mark’s a mosque, and the neighbouring palace +some vast seraglio, full of arabesque saloons, embroidered sofas, +and voluptuous Circassians.</p> +<h3>LETTER IV.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Padua</span>, +<i>June</i> 19<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>The morning was delightful, and St. Anthony’s bells in +full chime. A shower which had fallen in the night rendered +the air so cool and grateful, that Mad. de R. and myself +determined to seize the opportunity and go to Mirabello, a +country house, which Algarotti had inhabited, situate amongst the +Euganean hills, eight or nine miles from Padua.</p> +<p>Our road lay between poplar alleys and fields of yellow corn, +overhung by garlands of vine, most beautifully green. I +soon found myself in the midst of my favourite hills, upon slopes +covered with clover, and shaded by cherry-trees. Bending +down their boughs I gathered the fruit, and grew cooler and +happier every instant.</p> +<p>We dined very comfortably in a strange hall, where I pitched +my pianoforte, and sang the voluptuous airs of Bertoni’s +Armida. That enchantress might have raised her palace in +this situation; and, had I been Rinaldo, I certainly should not +very soon have abandoned it.</p> +<p>After dinner we drank coffee under some branching lemons, +which sprang from a terrace, commanding a boundless scene of +towers and villas; tall cypresses and shrubby hillocks rising, +like islands, out of a sea of corn and vine.</p> +<p>Evening drawing on, and the breeze blowing fresh from the +distant Adriatic, I reclined on a slope, and turned my eyes +anxiously towards Venice; then upon some little fields hemmed in +by chestnuts in blossom, where the peasants were making their +hay, and, from thence, to a mountain, crowned by a circular grove +of fir and cypress.</p> +<p>In the centre of these shades some monks have a comfortable +nest; perennial springs, a garden of delicious vegetables, and, I +dare say, a thousand luxuries besides, which the poor mortals +below never dream of.</p> +<p>Had it not been late, I should certainly have climbed up to +the grove, and asked admittance into its recesses; but having no +mind to pass the night in this eyrie, I contented myself with the +distant prospect.</p> +<h3>LETTER V.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Rome</span>, +<i>June</i> 29<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>It is needless for me to say I wish you with me: you know I +do; you know how delightfully we should ramble about Rome +together. This evening, instead of jiggeting along the +Corso with the puppets in blue and silver coats, and green and +gold coaches, instead of bowing to Cardinal this, and dotting my +head to Abbé t’other, I strolled to the Coliseo, +found out my old haunts amongst its arches, and enjoyed the pure +transparent sky between groves of slender cypress. Then +bending my course to the Palatine Mount, I passed under the Arch +of Titus, and gained the Capitol, which was quite deserted, the +world, thank Heaven, being all slip-slopping in coffee-houses, or +staring at a few painted boards patched up before the Colonna +palace, where, by the by, to-night is a grand <i>rinfresco</i> +for all the dolls and doll-fanciers of Rome. I heard their +buzz at a distance; that was enough for me!</p> +<p>Soothed by the rippling of waters, I descended the Capitoline +stairs, and leaned several minutes against one of the Egyptian +lionesses. This animal has no knack at oracles, or else it +would have murmured out to me the situation of that secret cave, +where the wolf suckled Romulus and his brother.</p> +<p>About nine, I returned home, and am now writing to you like a +prophet on the housetop. Behind me rustle the thickets of +Villa Medici; before, lies roof beyond roof and dome beyond dome: +these are dimly discovered; but don’t you see the great +cupola of cupolas, twinkling with illuminations? The town +is real, I am certain; but, surely, that structure of fire must +be visionary.</p> +<h3>LETTER VI.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Rome</span>, +<i>June</i> 30<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>As soon as the sun declined I strolled into the Villa Medici; +but finding it haunted by fine pink and yellow people, nay, even +by the Spanish Ambassador, and several more dignified carcasses, +I moved off to the Negroni garden. There I found what my +soul desired, thickets of jasmine, and wild spots overgrown with +bay; long alleys of cypress totally neglected, and almost +impassable through the luxuriance of the vegetation; on every +side antique fragments, vases, sarcophagi, and altars sacred to +the Manes, in deep, shady recesses, which I am certain the Manes +must love. The air was filled with the murmurs of water, +trickling down basins of porphyry, and losing itself amongst +overgrown weeds and grasses.</p> +<p>Above the wood and between its boughs appeared several domes, +and a strange lofty tower. I will not say they belong to +St. Maria Maggiore; no, they are fanes and porticos dedicated to +Cybele, who delights in sylvan situations. The forlorn air +of this garden, with its high and reverend shades, make me +imagine it as old as the baths of Dioclesian, which peep over one +of its walls. Yes, I am persuaded some consul or +prætor dwelt here only fifty years ago. Would to God, +our souls might be transported to such solitary spots! where we +might glide along the dark alleys together, when bodies were gone +to bed. I discovered a little cave that would just suit us; +celandine, Venus’ hair, and a thousand delicate plants, +growing downwards from the cave; beneath lies a clear spring.</p> +<p>At the close of day, I repaired to the platform before the +stately porticos of the Lateran. There I sat, folded up in +myself. Some priests jarred the iron gates behind me. +I looked over my shoulder through the portals, into the +portico. Night began to fill it with darkness. Upon +turning round, the sad waste of the Campagna met my eyes, and I +wished to go home, but had not the power. A pressure, like +that I have felt in horrid dreams, seemed to fix me to the +pavement.</p> +<p>I was thus in a manner forced to view the dreary scene, the +long line of aqueducts and lonesome towers. Perhaps the +unwholesome vapours, rising like blue mists from the plains, +affected me. I know not how it was; but I never experienced +such strange, such chilling terrors. About ten +o’clock, thank God, the spell dissolved; I found my limbs +at liberty, and returned home.</p> +<h3>LETTER VII.</h3> +<p style="text-align: right"><span class="smcap">Naples</span>, +<i>July</i> 8<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>The sea-breezes restored me to life. I set the heat of +midday at defiance, and do not believe in the horrors of the +sirocco. Yesterday I passed at Portici, with Lady H. +The morning, refreshing and pleasant, invited us at an early hour +into the open air. We drove, in an uncovered chaise, to the +royal Bosquetto: no other carriage than Sir W.’s is allowed +to enter its alleys. We breathed a fresh air untainted by +dust or garlic. Every now and then, amidst wild bushes of +ilex and myrtle, one finds a graceful antique statue, sometimes a +fountain, and often a rude knoll, where the rabbits sit +undisturbed, contemplating the blue glittering bay; at least, I +should do so, if I were a rabbit.</p> +<p>The walls of this shady inclosure are lined with Peruvian +aloes, whose white blossoms, scented like those of the magnolia, +form the most magnificent clusters. They are plants to +salute respectfully as one passes by, such is their size and +dignity. In the midst of the thickets stands the +King’s Pagliaro, surrounded by gardens with hedges of +luxuriant jasmine, whose branches are suffered to flaunt as much +as Nature pleases.</p> +<p>The morning sun darted his first rays on their flowers just as +I entered this pleasant spot. The hut looks as if erected +in the days of fairy pastoral life; its neatness is quite +delightful. Bright tiles compose the floor; straw, nicely +platted, covers the walls. In the middle of the room, you +see a table spread with a beautiful Persian carpet; at one end, +four niches with mattresses of silk, where the King and his +favourites repose after dinner; at the other, a white marble +basin. Mount a little staircase, and you find yourself in +another apartment, formed by the roof, which being entirely +composed of glistening straw, casts that comfortable yellow glow +I admire. From the windows you look into the garden, not +flourished with parterres, but divided into plats of fragrant +herbs and flowers, with here and there a little marble table, or +basin of the purest water.</p> +<p>These sequestered inclosures are cultivated with the greatest +care, and so frequently watered, that I observed lettuces, and a +variety of other vegetables, as fresh as in our green +England.</p> +<h2>AN EXCURSION TO THE GRAND CHARTREUSE IN THE YEAR 1778.</h2> +<p><span class="smcap">The Grand Chartreuse</span> has exceeded +my expectations; it is more wonderfully wild than I can describe, +or even you can imagine. It has possessed me to such a +degree that at present I can neither think, speak, nor write upon +any other subject.</p> +<p><i>June</i> 5<i>th</i>.—I left Geneva, and after passing +through a succession of valleys between innumerable mountains, +and after crossing a variety of picturesque bridges, thrown over +the streams which water them, arrived at Aix, in Savoy, famous +for its baths, which, as disagreeable things are generally the +most salutary, ought doubtless to be of the greatest efficacy; +for more uninviting objects one seldom meets with.</p> +<p>Advancing beneath a little eminence, partly rock, partly wall, +we discovered the principal bath, filled with a blue reeking +water, whose very steam is sufficient to seethe one without +further assistance.</p> +<p>Scarce had we stood looking on it a minute, before down dashed +three or four dirty boys, as copper-coloured as the natives of +Bengal; who by splashing us all over, and swimming about +<i>à la crapaudine</i>, convinced us that it was not their +fault, if we would not have companions in the delights of +bathing. I soon hurried away from this salubrious cauldron, +and stepping into a little chapel hard by, where they were +singing vespers, prayed heartily to the Virgin, that I might +never need the assistance of those wonder-working waters over +which she presides. As there was but little company in the +town, and little amusement, I went to bed at nine, and rose at +four the next morning, that I might reach before sunset the +celebrated road, which Charles Emanuel had cut through a rocky +mountain. My plan succeeded, and after dining at Chambery +(a place scarce worth speaking of to you), and passing by a +cataract that throws itself from a lofty steep, I began to +discover a beautiful woody vale, terminated on one side by the +hallowed cliffs of the Grand Chartreuse, and on the other by the +mountain which Charles Emanuel had perforated in so extraordinary +a manner. The sun was just sinking in a brilliant cloud, +which seemed to repose on a swelling hill, covered with cattle, +when we quitted the cheerful valley, and began to descend between +two ridges of precipices, that at some distance had the +appearance of towering ramparts. Pursuing our route, we +found ourselves in a deep cleft, surrounded by caverns, echoing +with a thousand rills which trickle down their sides, and +mingling their murmurs with the rattling of our wheels and the +steps of our horses, infinitely repeated and multiplied, formed, +altogether, the strangest combination of sounds that ever reached +my ears. The road itself is admirably cut, and hewn with +such neatness that, were it not for the savage and desolate air +of its environs, I should have imagined myself approaching some +grand castle or considerable city. Toward the summits of +the precipices, that in some places rise to a majestic elevation +(the two sides here and there nearly meeting in an arch), hang +light woods of glossy green, which, being agitated by a gentle +wind, cast a moving shadow over the cleft beneath, and, at a +little distance, gave our road the appearance of a chequered +pavement.</p> +<p>Having wound through the bosom of the mountain for some time, +I was struck by the unexpected appearance of a grand edifice, +resembling a vast portal, supported by Doric pilasters, and +crowned with an ornamented pediment. Upon my nearer +approach I found a smooth tablet filling up the space I had +allotted for an entrance, on which was engraven a pompous Latin +inscription, setting forth with what incredible labour and +perseverance his Majesty, Charles Emanuel the Second of Sardinia, +Cyprus, and Jerusalem, King, had cut this road through the +mountain; which great enterprise, though unattempted by the +Romans, and despaired of by other nations, was executed under his +auspices. I very sincerely wished him joy, and, as the +evening was growing rather cool, was not sorry to perceive, +through an opening in the rocks, a wide-extended plain, +interspersed with meadows, embosomed by woods, in which I +distinguished Les Echelles, a village, where we were to lie, with +its chimneys smoking, under the base of one of the Carthusian +mountains, round which had gathered a concourse of red and +greyish clouds.</p> +<p>The twilight was beginning to prevail when we reached our inn, +and very glad I was to leave it at the first dawn of the next +day. We were now obliged to abandon our coach; and taking +horse, proceeded towards the mountains, which, with the valleys +between them, form what is called the Desert of the +Carthusians.</p> +<p>In an hour’s time we were drawing near, and could +discern the opening of a narrow valley overhung by shaggy +precipices, above which rose lofty peaks, covered to their very +summits with wood. We could now distinguish the roar of +torrents, and a confusion of strange sounds, issuing from dark +forests of pine. I confess at this moment I was somewhat +startled. I experienced some disagreeable sensations, and +it was not without a degree of unwillingness that I left the gay +pastures and enlivening sunshine, to throw myself into this +gloomy and disturbed region. How dreadful, thought I, must +be the despair of those who enter it never to return!</p> +<p>But after the first impression was worn away, all my curiosity +redoubled; and desiring our guide to put forward with greater +speed, we made such good haste, that the meadows and cottages of +the plain were soon left far behind, and we found ourselves on +the banks of the torrent, whose agitation answered the ideas +which its sounds had inspired. Into the midst of these +troubled waters we were obliged to plunge with our horses, and, +when landed on the opposite shore, were by no means displeased to +have passed them.</p> +<p>We had now closed with the forests, over which the impending +rocks diffused an additional gloom. The day grew obscured +by clouds, and the sun no longer enlightened the distant plains, +when we began to ascend towards the entrance of the desert, +marked by two pinnacles of rock far above us, beyond which a +melancholy twilight prevailed. Every moment we approached +nearer and nearer to the sounds which had alarmed us; and, +suddenly emerging from the woods, we discovered several mills and +forges, with many complicated machines of iron, hanging over the +torrent, that threw itself headlong from a cleft in the +precipices; on one side of which I perceived our road winding +along, till it was stopped by a venerable gateway. A rock +above one of the forges was hollowed into the shape of a round +tower, of no great size, but resembling very much an altar in +figure; and, what added greatly to the grandeur of the object, +was a livid flame continually palpitating upon it, which the +gloom of the valley rendered perfectly discernible.</p> +<p>The road, at a small distance from this remarkable scene, was +become so narrow, that, had my horse started, I should have been +but too well acquainted with the torrent that raged beneath; +dismounting, therefore, I walked towards the edge of the great +fall, and there, leaning on a fragment of cliff, looked down into +the foaming gulph, where the waters were hurled along over broken +pines, pointed rocks, and stakes of iron. Then, lifting up +my eyes, I took in the vast extent of the forests, frowning on +the brows of the mountains.</p> +<p>It was here first I felt myself seized by the genius of the +place, and penetrated with veneration of its religious gloom; +and, I believe, uttered many extravagant exclamations; but, such +was the dashing of the wheels, and the rushing of the waters at +the bottom of the forges, that what I said was luckily +undistinguishable.</p> +<p>I was not yet, however, within the consecrated inclosure, and +therefore not perfectly contented; so, leaving my fragment, I +paced in silence up the path which led to the great portal. +When we arrived before it, I rested a moment, and leaning against +the stout oaken gate, which closed up the entrance to this +unknown region, felt at my heart a certain awe, that brought to +my mind the sacred terror of those, in ancient days, going to be +admitted into the Eleusinian mysteries.</p> +<p>My guide gave two knocks; after a solemn pause, the gate was +slowly opened, and all our horses having passed through it, was +again carefully closed.</p> +<p>I now found myself in a narrow dell, surrounded on every side +by peaks of the mountains, rising almost beyond my sight, and +shelving downwards till their bases were hidden by the foam and +spray of the water, over which hung a thousand withered and +distorted trees. The rocks seemed crowding upon me, and, by +their particular situation, threatened to obstruct every ray of +light; but, notwithstanding the menacing appearance of the +prospect, I still kept following my guide, up a craggy ascent, +partly hewn through a rock, and bordered by the trunks of ancient +fir-trees, which formed a fantastic barrier, till we came to a +dreary and exposed promontory, impending directly over the +dell.</p> +<p>The woods are here clouded with darkness, and the torrents, +rushing with additional violence, are lost in the gloom of the +caverns below; every object, as I looked downwards from my path, +that hung midway between the base and the summit of the cliff, +was horrid and woeful. The channel of the torrent sunk deep +amidst frightful crags, and the pale willows and wreathed roots +spreading over it, answered my ideas of those dismal abodes, +where, according to the druidical mythology, the ghosts of +conquered warriors were bound. I shivered whilst I was +regarding these regions of desolation, and, quickly lifting up my +eyes to vary the scene, I perceived a range of whitish cliffs, +glistening with the light of the sun, to emerge from these +melancholy forests.</p> +<p>On a fragment that projected over the chasm, and concealed for +a moment its terrors, I saw a cross, on which was written <span +class="GutSmall">VIA COELI</span>. The cliffs being the +heaven to which I now aspired, we deserted the edge of the +precipice, and ascending, came to a retired nook of the rocks, in +which several copious rills had worn irregular grottoes. +Here we reposed an instant, and were enlivened with a few +sunbeams, piercing the thickets and gilding the waters that +bubbled from the rock, over which hung another cross, inscribed +with this short sentence, which the situation rendered +wonderfully pathetic, <span class="GutSmall">O SPES UNICA</span>! +the fervent exclamation of some wretch disgusted with the world, +whose only consolation was found in this retirement.</p> +<p>We quitted this solitary cross to enter a thick forest of +beech-trees, that screened in some measure the precipices on +which they grew, catching, however, every instant terrifying +glimpses of the torrent below. Streams gushed from every +crevice in the cliffs, and falling over the mossy roots and +branches of the beech, hastened to join the great torrent, +athwart which I every now and then remarked certain tottering +bridges, and sometimes could distinguish a Carthusian crossing +over to his hermitage, that just peeped above the woody +labyrinths on the opposite shore.</p> +<p>Whilst I was proceeding amongst the innumerable trunks of the +beech trees, my guide pointed out to me a peak, rising above the +others, which he called the Throne of Moses. If that +prophet had received his revelations in this desert, no voice +need have declared it holy ground, for every part of it is +stamped with such a sublimity of character as would alone be +sufficient to impress the idea.</p> +<p>Having left these woods behind, and crossing a bridge of many +lofty arches, I shuddered once more at the impetuosity of the +torrent; and, mounting still higher, came at length to a kind of +platform before two cliffs, joined by an arch of rock, under +which we were to pursue our road. Below we beheld again +innumerable streams, turbulently precipitating themselves from +the woods, and lashing the base of the mountains, mossed over +with a dark sea-green.</p> +<p>In this deep hollow such mists and vapours prevailed as +hindered my prying into its recesses; besides, such was the +dampness of the air, that I hastened gladly from its +neighbourhood, and passing under the second portal, beheld with +pleasure the sunbeams gilding the Throne of Moses.</p> +<p>It was now about ten o’clock, and my guide assured me I +should soon discover the convent. Upon this information I +took new courage, and continued my route on the edge of the +rocks, till we struck into another gloomy grove. After +turning about it for some time, we entered again into the glare +of daylight, and saw a green valley skirted by ridges of cliffs +and sweeps of wood before us. Towards the farther end of +this inclosure, on a gentle acclivity, rose the revered turrets +of the Carthusians, which extend in a long line on the brow of +the hill; beyond them a woody amphitheatre majestically presents +itself, terminated by spires of rock and promontories lost +amongst the clouds.</p> +<p>The roar of the torrent was now but faintly distinguishable, +and all the scenes of horror and confusion I had passed, were +succeeded by a sacred and profound calm. I traversed the +valley with a thousand sensations I despair of describing, and +stood before the gate of the convent with as much awe as some +novice or candidate, newly arrived, to solicit the holy +retirement of the order.</p> +<p>As admittance is more readily granted to the English than to +almost any other nation, it was not long before the gates opened, +and whilst the porter ordered our horses to the stable, we +entered a court watered by two fountains and built round with +lofty edifices, characterized by a noble simplicity.</p> +<p>The interior portal, opening, discovered an arched aisle, +extending till the perspective nearly met, along which windows, +but scantily distributed between the pilasters, admitted a pale +solemn light, just sufficient to distinguish the objects with a +picturesque uncertainty. We had scarcely set our feet on +the pavement when the monks began to issue from an arch, about +half way down, and passing in a long succession from their +chapel, bowed reverently with much humility and meekness, and +dispersed in silence, leaving one of their body alone in the +aisle.</p> +<p>The Father Coadjutor (for he only remained) advanced towards +us with great courtesy, and welcomed us in a manner which gave me +far more pleasure than all the frivolous salutations and affected +greetings so common in the world beneath. After asking us a +few indifferent questions, he called one of the lay brothers, who +live in the convent under less severe restrictions than the +fathers whom they serve, and ordering him to prepare our +apartment, conducted us to a large square hall with casement +windows, and, what was more comfortable, an enormous chimney, +whose hospitable hearth blazed with a fire of dry aromatic fir, +on each side of which were two doors that communicated with the +neat little cells destined for our bedchambers.</p> +<p>Whilst he was placing us round the fire, a ceremony by no +means unimportant in the cold climate of these upper regions, a +bell rang which summoned him to prayers. After charging the +lay brother to set before us the best fare their desert afforded, +he retired, and left us at full liberty to examine our +chambers.</p> +<p>The weather lowered, and the casements permitted very little +light to enter the apartment: but on the other side it was amply +enlivened by the gleams of the fire, that spread all over a +certain comfortable air, which even sunshine but rarely +diffuses. Whilst the showers descended with great violence, +the lay brother and another of his companions were placing an +oval table, very neatly carved and covered with the finest linen, +in the middle of the hall; and, before we had examined a number +of portraits which were hung in all the panels of the wainscot, +they called us to a dinner widely different from what might have +been expected in so dreary a situation. The best fish, the +most exquisite fruits, and a variety of dishes, excellent without +the assistance of meat, were served up with an order and +arrangement that showed it was not the first time they had +entertained in the noblest manner. But I was not more +struck with the delicacy of the entertainment, than with the +extreme cleanness and English-like neatness of the whole +apartment and its furniture. A marble fountain, +particularly, gave it a very agreeable aid, and the water that +fell from it into a porphyry shell was remarkable for its +clearness and purity. Our attendant friar was helping us to +some Burgundy, which we pronounced of very respectable antiquity, +when the Coadjutor returned, accompanied by two other fathers, +the Secretary and Procurator, whom he presented to us. You +would have been both charmed and surprised with the cheerful +resignation that appeared in their countenances, and with the +easy turn of their conversation.</p> +<p>The Coadjutor, though equally kind, was as yet more reserved: +his countenance, however, spoke for him without the aid of words, +and there was in his manner a mixture of dignity and humility, +which could not fail to interest. There were moments when +the recollection of some past event seemed to shade his +countenance with a melancholy that rendered it still more +affecting. I should suspect he formerly possessed a great +share of natural vivacity (something of it being still, indeed, +apparent in his more unguarded moments); but this spirit is +almost entirely subdued by the penitence and mortification of the +order.</p> +<p>The secretary displayed a very considerable share of knowledge +in the political state of Europe, furnished probably by the +extensive correspondence these fathers preserve with the three +hundred and sixty subordinate convents, dispersed throughout all +those countries where the court of Rome still maintains its +influence.</p> +<p>In the course of our conversation they asked me innumerable +questions about England, where formerly, they said, many +monasteries had belonged to their order; and principally that of +W., which they had learnt to be now in my possession.</p> +<p>The Secretary, almost with tears in his eyes, beseeched me to +revere these consecrated edifices, and to preserve their remains, +for the sake of St. Hugo, their canonized Prior. I replied +greatly to his satisfaction, and then declaimed so much in favour +of Saint Bruno, and the holy prior of Witham, that the good +fathers grew exceedingly delighted with the conversation, and +made me promise to remain some days with them. I readily +complied with their request, and, continuing in the same strain, +that had so agreeably affected their ears, was soon presented +with the works of Saint Bruno, whom I so zealously admired.</p> +<p>After we had sat extolling them, and talking upon much the +same sort of subjects for about an hour, the Coadjutor proposed a +walk amongst the cloisters and galleries, as the weather would +not admit of any longer excursion. He leading the way, we +ascended a flight of steps, which brought us to a gallery, on +each side of which a vast number of pictures, representing the +dependent convents, were ranged; for I was now in the capital of +the order, where the General resides, and from whence he issues +forth his commands to his numerous subjects; who depute the +superiors of their respective convents, whether situated in the +wilds of Calabria, the forests of Poland, or in the remotest +districts of Portugal and Spain, to assist at the grand chapter, +held annually under him, a week or two after Easter.</p> +<p>This reverend father Dom Biclét died about ten days +before our arrival: a week ago they elected the Pere +Robinét prior of the Carthusian convent at Paris in his +room, and two fathers were now on their route to apprise him of +their choice, and to salute him General of the Carthusians. +During this interregnum the Coadjutor holds the first rank in the +temporal, and the Grand Vicaire in the spiritual, affairs of the +order; both of which are very extensive.</p> +<p>If I may judge from the representations of the different +convents, which adorn this gallery, there are many highly worthy +of notice, for the singularity of their situations, and the wild +beauties of the landscapes which surround them. The +Venetian Chartreuse, placed in a woody island, and that of Rome, +rising from amongst groups of majestic ruins, struck me as +peculiarly pleasing. Views of the English monasteries hung +formerly in such a gallery, but had been destroyed by fire, +together with the old convent. The list only remains, with +but a very few written particulars concerning them.</p> +<p>Having amused myself for some time with the pictures, and the +descriptions the Coadjutor gave me of them, we quitted the +gallery and entered a kind of chapel, in which were two altars +with lamps burning before them, on each side of a lofty +portal. This opened into a grand coved hall, adorned with +historical paintings of St. Bruno’s life, and the portraits +of the Generals of the order, since the year of the great +founder’s death (1085) to the present time. Under +these portraits are the stalls for the Superiors, who assist at +the grand convocation. In front appears the General’s +throne; above, hangs a representation of the canonized Bruno, +crowned with stars.</p> +<p>Were I, after walking along the dim cloisters, and passing +through the antechapel, faintly illuminated by a solitary lamp, +suddenly to enter this hall at midnight, when the convocation is +assembled, and the synod of venerable fathers, all in solemn +order, surrounding the successor of Bruno, it would be a long +while, I believe, before I could recover from the surprise of so +august a spectacle. It must indeed be a very imposing +sight: the gravity they preserve on these occasions, their +venerable age (for Superiors cannot be chosen young), and the +figures of their deceased Generals, dimly discovered above, may +surely be allowed to awe even an heretical spectator into a +momentary respect for the order. For my own part, I must +confess, that the hall, though divested of all this +accompaniment, filled me with a veneration I scarcely knew how to +account for; perhaps the portraits inspired it. They were +all well executed, and mostly in attitudes of adoration. +The form of Bruno was almost lost in the splendour of the stars +which hovered over him. I could in some moments fancy +myself capable of plunging into the horror of a desert, and +foregoing all the vanities and delights of the world, to secure +my memory so sublime a consecration.</p> +<p>The Coadjutor seemed charmed with the respect with which I +looked round on these holy objects; and if the hour of vespers +had not been drawing near, we should have spent more time in the +contemplation of Bruno’s miracles, portrayed on the lower +panels of the hall. We left that room to enter a winding +passage (lighted by windows in the roof), that brought us to a +cloister six hundred feet in length, from which branched off two +others, joining a fourth of the same most extraordinary +dimensions. Vast ranges of slender pillars extend round the +different courts of the edifice, many of which are thrown into +gardens belonging to particular cells.</p> +<p>We entered one of them: its inhabitant received us with much +civility, walked before us through a little corridor that looked +on his garden, showed us his narrow dwelling, and, having +obtained leave of the Coadjutor to speak, gave us his +benediction, and beheld us depart with concern. Nature has +given this poor monk very considerable talents for +painting. He has drawn the portrait of the late General, in +a manner that discovers great facility of execution; but he is +not allowed to exercise his pencil on any other subject, lest he +should be amused; and amusement in this severe order is a +crime. He had so subdued, so mortified an appearance, that +I was not sorry to hear the bell, which summoned the Coadjutor to +prayers, and prevented my entering any more of the cells. +We continued straying from cloister to cloister, and wandering +along the winding passages and intricate galleries of this +immense edifice, whilst the Coadjutor was assisting at +vespers.</p> +<p>In every part of the structure reigned the most death-like +calm: no sound reached my ears but the “minute drops from +off the eaves.” I sat down in a niche of the +cloister, and fell into a profound reverie, from which I was +recalled by the return of our conductor; who, I believe, was +almost tempted to imagine, from the cast of my countenance, that +I was deliberating whether I should not remain with them for +ever.</p> +<p>But I soon roused myself, and testified some impatience to see +the great chapel, at which we at length arrived, after traversing +another labyrinth of cloisters. The gallery immediately +before its entrance appeared quite gay, in comparison with the +others I had passed, and owes its cheerfulness to a large window +(ornamented with slabs of polished marble), that admits the view +of a lovely wood. Being neatly glazed, and free from +paintings or Gothic ornaments, it allows a full blaze of light to +dart on the chapel door; which is also adorned with marble, in a +plain but noble style of architecture.</p> +<p>The father sacristan stood ready on the steps of the portal to +grant us admittance; and, throwing open the valves, we entered +the chapel and were struck by the justness of its proportions, +the simple majesty of the arched roof, and the mild solemn light, +equally diffused over every part of the edifice. No tawdry +ornaments, no glaring pictures, disgraced the sanctity of the +place. The high altar, standing distinct from the walls, +which were hung with a rich velvet, was the only object on which +many ornaments were lavished, and even there the elegance of the +workmanship concealed the glare of the materials, which were +silver, solid gold, and the most costly gems. It being +Whit-Sunday, this altar was covered with statues of gold, +shrines, and candelabra of the stateliest shape and most delicate +execution. Four of the latter, of a gigantic size, were +placed on the steps; which, together with part of the inlaid +floor within the choir, were spread with beautiful carpets.</p> +<p>The illumination of so many tapers striking on the shrines, +censers, and pillars of polished jasper, sustaining the canopy of +the altar, produced a wonderful effect; and, as the rest of the +chapel was visible only by the faint external light admitted from +above, the splendour and dignity of the altar was enhanced by +contrast. I retired a moment from it, and seating myself in +one of the furthermost stalls of the choir, looked towards it, +and fancied it had risen like an exhalation.</p> +<p>Here I remained several minutes breathing nothing but incense, +and should not have quitted my station soon, had I not been +apprehensive of disturbing the devotions of two aged fathers who +had just entered, and were prostrating themselves before the +steps of the altar. These venerable figures added greatly +to the solemnity of the scene; which as the day declined +increased every moment in splendour; for the sparkling of several +lamps of chased silver that hung from the roofs, and the gleaming +of nine huge tapers which I had not before noticed, began to be +visible just as I left the chapel.</p> +<p>Passing through the sacristy, where lay several piles of rich +embroidered vestments, purposely displayed for our inspection, we +regained the cloister which led to our apartment, where the +supper was ready prepared. We had scarcely finished it, +when the Coadjutor, and the fathers who had accompanied us +before, returned, and ranging themselves round the fire, resumed +the conversation about St. Bruno.</p> +<p>Finding me very piously disposed by the wonders I had seen in +the day to listen to things of a miraculous nature, they began to +relate the inspirations they had received from him, and his +mysterious apparitions. I was all attention, respect, and +credulity. The old Secretary worked himself up to such a +pitch of enthusiasm, that I am very much inclined to imagine he +believed, in these moments, all the marvellous events he +related. The Coadjutor being less violent in his +pretensions to St. Bruno’s modern miracles, contented +himself with enumerating the noble works he had done in the days +of his fathers, and in the old time before them.</p> +<p>It grew rather late before my kind hosts had finished their +narrations, and I was not sorry, after all the exercise I had +taken, to return to my cell, where everything invited to +repose. I was charmed with the neatness and oddity of my +little apartment; its cabin-like bed, oratory, and ebony +crucifix; in short, everything it contained; not forgetting the +aromatic odour of the pine, with which it was roofed, floored, +and wainscoted. The night was luckily dark. Had the +moon appeared, I could not have prevailed upon myself to have +quitted her till very late; but, as it happened, I crept into my +cabin, and was by “whispering winds soon lulled +asleep.”</p> +<p>Eight o’clock struck next morning before I awoke; when, +to my great sorrow, I found the peaks, which rose above the +convent, veiled in vapours, and the rain descending with +violence.</p> +<p>After we had breakfasted by the light of our fire (for the +casements admitted but a very feeble gleam), I sat down to the +works of St. Bruno; of all medleys the strangest. +Allegories without end: a theologico-natural history of birds, +beasts, and fishes: several chapters on paradise; the delights of +solitude; the glory of Solomon’s temple; the new Jerusalem; +and numberless other wonderful subjects, full of enthusiasm and +superstition.</p> +<p>Saint Bruno was certainly a mighty genius; I admire the +motives which drew him to this desert; but perhaps before we come +to that part of the story, you will like to know what preceded +it. My Saint (for Bruno has succeeded Thomas of Canterbury) +was of noble descent, and possessed considerable wealth. He +was not less remarkable for the qualities of his mind, and his +talents gained him the degree of Master of the great sciences in +the University of Rheims; here he contracted a friendship with +Odo, afterwards Urban the Second. Being always poetic, +singular, and visionary, he soon grew disgusted with the world, +and began early in life to sigh after retirement. His +residence at Grenoble, where he was invited by Hugo, its bishop, +determined him to the monastic state.</p> +<p>This venerable prelate imparted to him a vision in which he +seemed to behold the desert and mountain beyond his city visible +in the dead of night by the streaming of seven lucid stars that +hung directly over them. Whilst he was ardently gazing at +this wonder, a still voice was heard declaring it the future +abode of Bruno—by him to be consecrated as a retirement for +holy men desirous of holding converse with their God. No +shepherd’s pipe was to be heard within these precincts; no +huntsman’s profane feet to tread these silent regions, +which were to be dedicated solely to their Creator; no woman was +to ascend this mountain, nor violate by her allurements the +sacred repose of its inhabitants.</p> +<p>Such were the first institutions of the order as the inspired +Bishop of Grenoble delivered them to Bruno, who selecting a few +persons that, like himself, contemned the splendours of the world +and the charms of society, repaired with them to this spot; and, +in the darkest parts of the forests which shade the most gloomy +recesses of the mountains, founded the first convent of +Carthusians, long since destroyed.</p> +<p>Several years passed away, whilst Bruno was employed in +actions of the most exalted piety; and, the fame of his exemplary +conduct reaching Rome (where his friend had been lately invested +with the papal tiara), the whole conclave was desirous of seeing +him, and entreated Urban to invite him to Rome. The request +of Christ’s vicegerent was not to be refused; and Bruno +quitted his beloved solitude, leaving some of his disciples +behind, who propagated his doctrines, and tended zealously the +infant order.</p> +<p>The pomp of the Roman court soon disgusted the rigid Bruno, +who had weaned himself entirely from worldly affections.</p> +<p>Being wholly intent on futurity, the bustle and tumults of a +busy metropolis became so irksome that he supplicated Urban for +leave to retire; and, having obtained it, left Rome, and +immediately seeking the wilds of Calabria, there sequestered +himself in a lonely hermitage, calmly expecting his last +moments. Many are the miracles which he wrought and which +his canonized bones have since effected: angels (it is said), +hovered round him in his departing hour, and bore him on their +wings to heaven. The different accounts of his translation +are almost endless; and as they are all nearly in the same style, +it will be needless to recite them.</p> +<p>I had scarcely finished taking extracts from the life and +writings of St. Bruno when the dinner appeared, consisting of +everything most delicate which a strict adherence to the rules of +meagre could allow. The good fathers returned as usual with +the dessert, and served up an admirable dish of miracles, well +seasoned with the devil and prettily garnished with angels and +moonbeams. <a name="citation284"></a><a href="#footnote284" +class="citation">[284]</a></p> +<p>Our conversation was interrupted, very agreeably, by the +sudden intrusion of the sun, which, escaping from the clouds, +shone in full splendour above the highest peak of the mountains, +and the vapours fleeting by degrees discovered the woods in all +the freshness of their verdure. The pleasure I received +from seeing this new creation rising to view was very lively, +and, as the fathers assured me the humidity of their walks did +not often continue longer than the showers, I left my hall.</p> +<p>Crossing the court, I hastened out of the gates, and running +swiftly along a winding path on the side of the meadow, bordered +by the forests, enjoyed the charms of the prospect, inhaled the +perfume of the woodlands, and now turning towards the summits of +the precipices that encircled this sacred inclosure, admired the +glowing colours they borrowed from the sun, contrasted by the +dark hues of the forest. Now, casting my eyes below, I +suffered them to roam from valley to valley, and from one stream +(beset with tall pines and tufted beech trees) to another. +The purity of the air in these exalted regions, and the lightness +of my own spirits, almost seized me with the idea of treading in +that element.</p> +<p>Not content with the distant beauties of the hanging rocks and +falling waters, I still kept running wildly along, with an +eagerness and rapidity that, to a sober spectator, would have +given me the appearance of one possessed, and with reason, for I +was affected with the scene to a degree I despair of +expressing.</p> +<p>Whilst I was continuing my course, pursued by a thousand +strange ideas, a father, who was returning from some distant +hermitage, stopped my career, and made signs for me to repose +myself on a bench erected under a neighbouring shed; and, +perceiving my agitation and disordered looks, fancied, I believe, +that one of the bears that lurk near the snows of the mountains +had alarmed me by his sudden appearance.</p> +<p>The good old man, expressing by his gestures that he wished me +to recover myself in quiet on the bench, hastened, with as much +alacrity as his age permitted, to a cottage adjoining the shed, +and returning in a few moments, presented me some water in a +wooden bowl, into which he let fall several drops of an elixir +composed of innumerable herbs, and having performed this deed of +charity, signified to me by a look, in which benevolence, +compassion, and perhaps some little remains of curiosity were +strongly painted, how sorry he was to be restrained by his vow of +silence from inquiring into the cause of my agitation, and giving +me farther assistance. I answered also by signs, on purpose +to carry on the adventure, and suffered him to depart with all +his conjectures unsatisfied.</p> +<p>No sooner had I lost sight of the benevolent hermit, than I +started up, and pursued my path with my former agility, till I +came to the edge of a woody dell, that divided the meadow on +which I was running from the opposite promontory. Here I +paused, and looking up at the cliffs, now but faintly illumined +by the sun, which had been some time sinking on our narrow +horizon, reflected that it would be madness to bewilder myself, +at so late an hour, in the mazes of the forest. Being thus +determined, I abandoned with regret the idea of penetrating into +the lovely region before me, and contented myself for some +moments with marking the pale tints of the evening gradually +overspreading the cliffs, so lately flushed with the gleams of +the setting sun.</p> +<p>But my eyes were soon diverted from contemplating these +objects by a red light streaming over the northern sky, which +attracted my notice, as I sat on the brow of a sloping hill, +looking down a steep hollow vale, surrounded by the forests, +above which rose majestically the varied peaks and promontories +of the mountains.</p> +<p>The upland lawns, which hang at immense heights above the +vale, next caught my attention. I was gazing alternately at +them and the valley, when a long succession of light misty +clouds, of strange fantastic shapes, issuing from a narrow gully +between the rocks, passed on, like a solemn procession, over the +hollow dale, midway between the stream that watered it below and +the summits of the cliffs on high.</p> +<p>The tranquillity of the region the verdure, of the lawn, +environed by girdles of flourishing wood, and the lowing of the +distant herds, filled me with the most pleasing sensations. +But when I lifted up my eyes to the towering cliffs, and beheld +the northern sky streaming with ruddy light, and the long +succession of misty forms hovering over the space beneath, they +became sublime and awful. The dews which began to descend, +and the vapours which were rising from every dell, reminded me of +the lateness of the hour; and it was with great reluctance that I +turned from the scene which had so long engaged my contemplation, +and traversed slowly and silently the solitary meadows, over +which I had hurried with such eagerness an hour ago.</p> +<p>Hill appeared after hill, and hillock succeeded hillock, which +I had passed unnoticed before. Sometimes I imagined myself +following a different path from that which had brought me to the +edge of the deep valley; another moment, descending into the +hollows between the hillocks that concealed the distant prospects +from my sight, I fancied I had entirely mistaken my route, and +expected every moment to be lost amongst the rude brakes and +tangled thickets that skirted the eminences around.</p> +<p>As the darkness increased, my situation became still more and +more forlorn. I had almost abandoned the idea of reaching +the convent; and whenever I gained any swelling ground, looked +above, below, and on every side of me, in hopes of discovering +some glimmering lamp which might indicate a hermitage, whose +charitable possessor, I flattered myself, would direct me to the +monastery.</p> +<p>At length, after a tedious wandering along the hills, I found +myself, unexpectedly, under the convent walls; and, as I was +looking for the gate, the attendant lay brothers came out with +lights, in order to search for me. Scarcely had I joined +them when the Coadjutor and the Secretary came forward, with the +kindest anxiety expressed their uneasiness at my long absence, +and conducted me to my apartment, where Mr. — was waiting, +with no small degree of impatience; but I found not a word had +been mentioned of my adventure with the hermit; so that, I +believe, he strictly kept his vow till the day when the +Carthusians are allowed to speak, and which happened after my +departure.</p> +<p>We had hardly supped before the gates of the convent were +shut, a circumstance which disconcerted me not a little, as the +full moon gleamed through the casements, and the stars, sparkling +above the forests of pines, invited me to leave my apartment +again, and to give myself up entirely to the spectacle they +offered.</p> +<p>The Coadjutor, perceiving that I was often looking earnestly +through the windows, guessed my wishes, and calling a lay +brother, ordered him to open the gates, and wait at them till my +return. It was not long before I took advantage of this +permission, and escaping from the courts and cloisters of the +monastery, all hushed in death-like stillness, ascended a green +knoll, which several ancient pines strongly marked with their +shadows: there, leaning against one of their trunks, I lifted up +my eyes to the awful barrier of surrounding mountains, discovered +by the trembling silver light of the moon shooting directly on +the woods which fringed their acclivities.</p> +<p>The lawns, the vast woods, the steep descents, the precipices, +the torrents, lay all extended beneath, softened by a pale bluish +haze, that alleviated, in some measure, the stern prospect of the +rocky promontories above, wrapped in dark shadows. The sky +was of the deepest azure; innumerable stars were distinguished +with unusual clearness from this elevation, many of which +twinkled behind the fir-trees edging the promontories. +White, grey, and darkish clouds came marching towards the moon, +that shone full against a range of cliffs, which lift themselves +far above the others. The hoarse murmur of the torrent, +throwing itself from the distant wildernesses into the gloomy +vales, was mingled with the blast that blew from the +mountains. It increased. The forests began to wave, +black clouds rose from the north, and, as they fleeted along, +approached the moon, whose light they shortly extinguished. +A moment of darkness succeeded; the gust was chill and +melancholy; it swept along the desert, and then subsiding, the +vapours began to pass away, and the moon returned the grandeur of +the scene was renewed, and its imposing solemnity was increased +by her presence. Inspiration was in every wind.</p> +<p>I followed some impulse which drove me to the summit of the +mountains before me; and there, casting a look on the whole +extent of wild woods and romantic precipices, thought of the days +of St. Bruno. I eagerly contemplated every rock that +formerly might have met his eyes; drank of the spring which +tradition says he was wont to drink of; and ran to every pine +whose withered appearance bespoke a remote antiquity, and beneath +which, perhaps, the saint had reposed himself, when worn with +vigils, or possessed with the sacred spirit of his +institutions.</p> +<p>It was midnight: the convent bell tolled; for the most solemn +hour of prayer was arrived. I cannot, nor would I, attempt +to unfold to you, in prose, half the strange things of which I +thought, and which I seemed to see, during this wild +excursion. However, I owe to it the poetical humour in +which I composed the following lines, written immediately on my +return, in the album of the fathers, during the stillest watch of +the night:</p> +<p style="text-align: center">ODE.</p> +<p class="poetry"> To orisons, the midnight +bell<br /> +Had toll’d each silent inmate from his cell;<br /> + The hour was come to muse or pray,<br /> +Or work mysterious rites that shun the day:<br /> + My steps some whis’pring influence led,<br /> +Up to yon pine-clad mountain’s gloomy head:<br /> + Hollow and deep the gust did blow,<br /> +And torrents dash’d into the vales below.<br /> + At length the toilsome height attain’d,<br /> +Quick fled the moon, and sudden stillness reign’d.<br /> + As fearful turn’d my searching eye,<br /> +Glanc’d near a shadowy form, and fleeted by;<br /> + Anon, before me full it stood:<br /> +A saintly figure, pale, in pensive mood.<br /> + Damp horror thrill’d me till he spoke,<br /> +And accents faint the charm bound silence broke:<br /> + “Long, trav’ller! ere this region +near,<br /> +Say, did not whisp’rings strange arrest thine ear?<br /> + My summons ’twas to bid thee come,<br /> +Where sole the friend of Nature loves to roam.<br /> + Ages long past, this drear abode<br /> +To solitude I sanctified, and God:<br /> + ’Twas here, by love of Wisdom brought,<br /> +Her truest lore, Self-knowledge, first I sought;<br /> + Devoted here my worldly wealth,<br /> +To win my chosen sons immortal health.<br /> + Midst these dun woods, and mountains steep,<br /> +Midst the wild horrors of yon desert deep,<br /> + Midst yawning caverns, wat’ry dells,<br /> +Midst long, sequestered aisles, and peaceful cells,<br /> + No passions fell distract the mind,<br /> +To Nature, Silence, and Herself consign’d.<br /> + In these still mansions who shall bide,<br /> +’Tis mine, with Heaven’s appointment, to decide;<br +/> + But, hither, I invite not all:<br /> +Some want the will to come, and more the call;<br /> + But all, mark well my parting voice!<br /> +Led, or by chance, necessity, or choice<br /> + (Ah! with our Genius dread to sport),<br /> +Sage lessons here may learn of high import.<br /> + Know! Silence is the nurse of Truth;<br /> +Know! Temperance long retards the flight of Youth<br /> + Learn here, how penitence and pray’r<br /> +Man’s fallen race for happier worlds prepare;<br /> + Learn mild demeanour, void of art,<br /> +And bear, amidst the world, the hermit’s heart;<br /> + Fix, trav’ller! deep this heaven-taught +lore:<br /> +Know Bruno brings it, and returns no more.”<br /> + (Half sighed, half smiled his long farewell),<br /> +He turn’d, and vanish’d in the bright’ning +dell.</p> +<p>My imagination was too much disturbed, and my spirits far too +active, to allow me any rest for some time, and I had not long +been quieted by sleep, when I was suddenly awakened by a furious +blast, that drove open my casement, and let in the roar of the +tempest, for the night was troubled. In the intervals of +the storm, in those moments when the winds seemed to pause, the +faint sounds of the choir stole upon my ear; but were swallowed +up the next instant by the redoubled fury of the gust, which was +still increased by the roar of the waters.</p> +<p>I started from my bed, closed the casement, and composed +myself as well as I was able; but no sooner had the sunbeams +entered my window, than I arose, and gladly leaving my cell, +hastened to the same knoll where I had stood the night +before. The storm was dissipated, and the pure morning air +delightfully refreshing; every tree, every shrub, glistened with +dew. A gentle wind breathed upon the woods, and waved the +fir-trees on the cliffs, which, free from clouds, rose distinctly +into the clear blue sky. I strayed from the knoll into the +valley between the steeps of wood and the turrets of the convent, +and passed the different buildings, destined for the manufacture +of the articles necessary to the fathers; for nothing is worn or +used within this inclosure which comes from the profane +world.</p> +<p>Traversing the meadows and a succession of little dells, where +I was so lately bewildered, I came to a bridge thrown over the +torrent, which I crossed; and here followed a slight path that +brought me to an eminence, covered with a hanging wood of +beach-trees feathered to the ground, from whence I looked down +the narrow pass towards Grenoble. Perceiving a smoke to +arise from the groves which nodded over the eminence, I climbed +up a rocky steep, and, after struggling through a thicket of +shrubs, entered a smooth, sloping lawn, framed in by woody +precipices; at one extremity of which I discovered the cottage, +whose smoke had directed me to this sequestered spot; and, at the +other, a numerous group of cattle, lying under the shade of some +beech-trees, whilst several friars, with long beards and russet +garments, were employed in milking them.</p> +<p>The luxuriant foliage of the woods, clinging round the steeps +that skirted the lawn; its gay, sunny exposition; the groups of +sleek, dappled cows, and the odd employment of the friars, so +little consonant with their venerable beards, formed a +picturesque and certainly very singular spectacle. I, who +had been accustomed to behold “milk-maids singing +blithe,” and tripping lightly along with their pails, was +not a little surprised at the silent gravity with which these +figures shifted their trivets from cow to cow; and it was curious +to see with what adroitness they performed their functions, +managing their long beards with a facility and cleanliness +equally admirable.</p> +<p>I watched all their movements for some time, concealed by the +trees, before I made myself visible; but no sooner did I appear +on the lawn, than one of the friars quitted his trivet, very +methodically set down his pail, and coming towards me with an +open, smiling countenance, desired me to refresh myself with some +bread and milk. A second, observing what was going forward, +was resolved not to be exceeded in an hospitable act, and, +quitting his pail too, hastened into the woods whence he returned +in a few minutes with some strawberries, very neatly enveloped in +fresh leaves. These hospitable, milking fathers, next +invited me to the cottage, whither I declined going, as I +preferred the shade of the beeches; so, throwing myself on the +dry aromatic herbage, I enjoyed the pastoral character of the +scene with all possible glee.</p> +<p>Not a cloud darkened the heavens; every object smiled; +innumerable gaudy flies glanced in the sunbeams that played in a +clear spring by the cottage; I saw with pleasure the sultry glow +of the distant cliffs and forests, whilst indolently reclined in +the shade, listening to the summer hum; one hour passed after +another neglected away, during my repose in this most delightful +of valleys. The cattle were all slunk into the recesses of +the wood, and were drinking at the streams which flow along their +shades, before I could prevail on myself to quit the turf and the +beech trees. Never shall I cease regretting the peaceful +moments I spent in Valombré, as never perhaps, were I even +to return to it, may so many circumstances unite to render it +pleasing.</p> +<p>When I returned unwillingly to the convent, the only topic on +which I could converse was the charms of Valombré; but +notwithstanding the indifference with which I now regarded the +prospects that surrounded the monastery, I could not disdain an +offer made by one of the friars, of conducting me to the summit +of the highest peak in the desert.</p> +<p>Pretty late in the afternoon I set out with my guide, and, +following his steps through many forests of pine, and wild +apertures among them, strewed with fragments, arrived at a +chapel, built on a mossy rock, and dedicated to St. Bruno.</p> +<p>Having once more drunk of the spring that issues from the rock +on which this edifice is raised, I moved forward, keeping my eyes +fixed on a lofty green mountain, whence rises a vast cliff, +spiring up to a surprising elevation; and which (owing to the +sun’s reflection on a transparent mist hovering around it) +was tinged with a pale visionary light. This object was the +goal to which I aspired; and redoubling my activity, I made the +best of my way over rude ledges of rocks, and crumbled fragments +of the mountain interspersed with firs, till I came to the green +steeps I had surveyed at a distance.</p> +<p>These I ascended with some difficulty, and, leaving a few +scattered beech-trees behind, in full leaf, shortly bid adieu to +summer, and entered the regions of spring; for, as I approached +that part of the mountain next the summit, the trees, which I +found there rooted in the crevices, were but just beginning to +unfold their leaves, and every spot of the greensward was covered +with cowslips and violets.</p> +<p>After taking a few moments’ repose, my guide prepared to +clamber amongst the rocks, and I followed him with as much +alertness as I was able, till laying hold of the trunk of a +withered pine, we sprang upon a small level space, where I seated +myself, and beheld far beneath me the vast desert and dreary +solitudes, amongst which appeared, thinly scattered, the green +meadows and hanging lawns. The eye next overlooking the +barrier of mountains, ranged through immense tracts of distant +countries; the plains where Lyons is situated; the woodlands and +lakes of Savoy; amongst which that of Bourget was near enough to +discover its beauties, all glowing with the warm haze of the +setting sun.</p> +<p>My situation was too dizzy to allow a long survey; so turning +my eyes from the terrific precipice, I gladly beheld an opening +in the rocks, through which we passed into a little irregular +glen of the smoothest greensward, closed in on one side by the +great peak, and on the others by a ridge of sharp pinnacles, +which crown the range of white cliffs I had so much admired the +night before, when brightened by the moon.</p> +<p>The singular situation of this romantic spot invited me to +remain in it till the sun was about to sink on the horizon: +during which time I visited every little cave delved in the +ridges of rock, and gathered large sprigs of the mezereon and +rhododendron in full bloom, which, with a surprising variety of +other plants, carpeted this lovely glen. A luxuriant +vegetation,</p> +<blockquote><p>“That on the green turf suck’d the +honey’d showers,<br /> +And purpled all the ground with vernal flow’rs.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>My guide, perceiving I was ready to mount still higher, told +me it would be in vain, as the beds of snow that lie eternally in +some fissures of the mountain, must necessarily impede my +progress; but, finding I was very unwilling to abandon the +enterprise, he showed me a few notches in the peak, by which we +might ascend, though not without danger. This prospect +rather abated my courage, and the wind rising, drove several +thick clouds round the bottom of the peak, which increasing every +minute, shortly screened the green mountain and all the forest +from our sight. A sea of vapours soon undulated beneath my +feet, and lightning began to flash from a dark angry cloud, that +hung over the valleys, and deluged them with storms, whilst I was +securely standing under the clear expanse of ether.</p> +<p>But the hour did not admit of my remaining long in this proud +station; so descending, I was soon obliged to pass through the +vapours, and, carefully following my guide (for a false step +might have caused my destruction), wound amongst the declivities, +till we left the peak behind, and just as we reached the green +mountain, which was moistened with the late storm, the clouds +fleeted and the evening recovered its serenity.</p> +<p>Leaving the chapel of St. Bruno on the right, we entered the +woods, and soon emerged from them into a large pasture, under the +grand amphitheatre of mountains, having a gentle ascent before +us, beyond which appeared the neat blue roofs and glittering +spires of the convent, where we arrived as the moon was beginning +to assume her empire.</p> +<p>I need not say I rested well after the interesting fatigues of +the day. The next morning, early, I quitted my kind hosts +with great reluctance. The Coadjutor and two other fathers +accompanied me to the outward gate, and there within the solemn +circle of the desert bestowed on me their benediction.</p> +<p>It seemed indeed to come from their hearts, nor would they +leave me till I was a hundred paces from the convent; and then, +laying their hands on their breasts, declared that if ever I was +disgusted with the world, here was an asylum.</p> +<p>I was in a melancholy mood when I traced back all the windings +of my road, and when I found myself beyond the last gate, in the +midst of the wide world again, it increased.</p> +<p>We returned to Les Echelles; from thence to Chamberry, and, +instead of going through Aix, passed by Amecy; but nothing in all +the route engaged my attention, nor had I any pleasing sensations +till I beheld the glassy lake of Geneva, and its lovely +environs.</p> +<p>I rejoiced then because I knew of a retirement on its banks +where I could sit and think of Valombré.</p> +<h2>FOOTNOTES.</h2> +<p><a name="footnote110"></a><a href="#citation110" +class="footnote">[110]</a> Hills in the neighbourhood of +Quang-Tong.</p> +<p><a name="footnote127"></a><a href="#citation127" +class="footnote">[127]</a> The Peries, inhabitants of +Ginnistan, live upon perfumes, etc., etc. See +Richardson’s Dissertations.</p> +<p><a name="footnote133"></a><a href="#citation133" +class="footnote">[133]</a> Thisbe, a favourite greyhound +torn to pieces by a mad dog.</p> +<p><a name="footnote140"></a><a href="#citation140" +class="footnote">[140]</a> See the description of the +Grande Chartreuse.</p> +<p><a name="footnote156"></a><a href="#citation156" +class="footnote">[156]</a> The conduct of the emperor, +since the death of his mother, seems to be accomplishing this +prediction apace.</p> +<p><a name="footnote170a"></a><a href="#citation170a" +class="footnote">[170a]</a> It is reasonably conjectured +that the sea formerly washed the walls of Padua.</p> +<p><a name="footnote170b"></a><a href="#citation170b" +class="footnote">[170b]</a> T. Livius, L. i., c. i.</p> +<p><a name="footnote170c"></a><a href="#citation170c" +class="footnote">[170c]</a> Lib. v., c. iv., p. 5.</p> +<p><a name="footnote171"></a><a href="#citation171" +class="footnote">[171]</a> Called Roscani in Venetian, and +reduced to ashes for the glass manufactory at Murano.</p> +<p><a name="footnote182"></a><a href="#citation182" +class="footnote">[182]</a> A nephew of Bertoni, and worthy +of his uncle.</p> +<p><a name="footnote214"></a><a href="#citation214" +class="footnote">[214]</a> Mentioned by Dante in his +“Purgatorio.”</p> +<p><a name="footnote240"></a><a href="#citation240" +class="footnote">[240]</a> Mem. pour la Vie de Petrarque, +vol. i., p. 439.</p> +<p><a name="footnote284"></a><a href="#citation284" +class="footnote">[284]</a> Angela are frequently +represented, in legendary tales, as riding on the beams of the +moon.</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DREAMS, WAKING THOUGHTS, AND +INCIDENTS***</p> +<pre> + + +***** This file should be named 7258-h.htm or 7258-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/7/2/5/7258 + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. 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Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Dreams, Waking Thoughts, and Incidents + +Author: William Beckford + +Release Date: January, 2005 [EBook #7258] +[This file was first posted on April 2, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: US-ASCII + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, DREAMS, WAKING THOUGHTS, ETC. *** + + + + +Transcribed from the 1891 Ward, Lock and Co. edition by David Price, +email ccx074@coventry.ac.uk + + + + +Dreams, Waking Thoughts, and Incidents; in a Series of Letters from +Various Parts of Europe + + + +LETTER I + + + +June 19th, 1780.--Shall I tell you my dreams?--To give an account of +my time is doing, I assure you, but little better. Never did there +exist a more ideal being. A frequent mist hovers before my eyes, +and, through its medium, I see objects so faint and hazy, that both +their colours and forms are apt to delude me. This is a rare +confession, say the wise, for a traveller to make: pretty accounts +will such a one give of outlandish countries: his correspondents +must reap great benefit, no doubt, from such purblind observations. +But stop, my good friends; patience a moment!--I really have not the +vanity of pretending to make a single remark, during the whole of my +journey: if--be contented with my visionary way of gazing, I am +perfectly pleased; and shall write away as freely as Mr. A., Mr. B., +Mr. C., and a million others whose letters are the admiration of the +politest circles. + +All through Kent did I doze as usual; now and then I opened my eyes +to take in an idea or two of the green, woody country through which I +was passing; then closed them again; transported myself back to my +native hills; thought I led a choir of those I loved best through +their shades; and was happy in the arms of illusion. The sun set +before I recovered my senses enough to discover plainly the +variegated slopes near Canterbury, waving with slender birch-trees, +and gilt with a profusion of broom. I thought myself still in my +beloved solitude, but missed the companions of my slumbers. Where +are they?--Behind yon blue hills, perhaps, or t'other side of that +thick forest. My fancy was travelling after these deserters, till we +reached the town; vile enough o' conscience, and fit only to be +passed in one's sleep. The moment after I got out of the carriage, +brought me to the cathedral; an old haunt of mine. I had always +venerated its lofty pillars, dim aisles, and mysterious arches. Last +night they were more solemn than ever, and echoed no other sound than +my steps. I strayed about the choir and chapels, till they grew so +dark and dismal, that I was half inclined to be frightened; looked +over my shoulder; thought of spectres that have an awkward trick of +syllabling men's names in dreary places; and fancied a sepulchral +voice exclaiming: "Worship my toe at Ghent; my ribs at Florence; my +skull at Bologna, Sienna, and Rome. Beware how you neglect this +order; for my bones, as well as my spirit, have the miraculous +property of being here, there, and everywhere." These injunctions, +you may suppose, were received in a becoming manner, and noted all +down in my pocket-book by inspiration (for I could not see), and +hurrying into the open air, I was whirled away in the dark to +Margate. Don't ask what were my dreams thither: --nothing but +horrors, deep-vaulted tombs, and pale, though lovely figures, +extended upon them; shrill blasts that sung in my ears, and filled me +with sadness, and the recollection of happy hours, fleeting away, +perhaps for ever! I was not sorry, when the bustle of our coming-in +dispelled these phantoms. The change, however, in point of scenery +was not calculated to dissipate my gloom; for the first object in +this world that presented itself, was a vast expanse of sea, just +visible by the gleamings of the moon, bathed in watery clouds; a +chill air ruffled the waves. I went to shiver a few melancholy +moments on the shore. How often did I try to wish away the reality +of my separation from those I love, and attempt to persuade myself it +was but a dream! + +This morning I found myself more cheerfully disposed, by the queer +Dutch faces with short pipes and ginger-bread complexions that came +smirking and scraping to get us on board their respective vessels; +but, as I had a ship engaged for me before, their invitations were +all in vain. The wind blows fair; and, should it continue of the +same mind a few hours longer, we shall have no cause to complain of +our passage. Adieu! Think of me sometimes. If you write +immediately, I shall receive your letter at the Hague. + +It is a bright sunny evening: the sea reflects a thousand glowing +colours, and, in a minute or two, I shall be gliding on its surface. + + + +LETTER II + + + +OSTEND, June 21st. + +T'other minute I was in Greece, gathering the bloom of Hymettus, but +now I am landed in Flanders, smoked with tobacco, and half poisoned +with garlic. Were I to remain ten days at Ostend, I should scarcely +have one delightful vision; 'tis so unclassic a place--nothing but +preposterous Flemish roofs disgust your eyes when you cast them +upwards; swaggering Dutchmen and mongrel barbers are the principal +objects they meet with below. I should esteem myself in luck, were +the nuisances of this seaport confined only to two senses; but, alas! +the apartment above my head proves a squalling brattery, and the +sounds which proceed from it are so loud and frequent, that a person +might think himself in limbo, without any extravagance. + +Am I not an object of pity, when I tell you that I was tormented +yesterday by a similar cause? But I know not how it is; your violent +complainers are the least apt to excite compassion. I believe, +notwithstanding, if another rising generation should lodge above me +at the next inn, I shall grow as scurrilous as Dr. Smollett, and be +dignified with the appellation of the Younger Smelfungus. Well, let +those make out my diploma that will, I am determined to vent my +spleen, and like Lucifer, unable to enjoy comfort myself, tease +others with the details of my vexatious. You must know, then, since +I am resolved to grumble, that, tired with my passage, I went to the +Capuchin church, a large solemn building, in search of silence and +solitude; but here again was I disappointed. Half-a-dozen squeaking +fiddles fugued and flourished away in the galleries, and as many +paralytic monks gabbled before the altars, while a whole posse of +devotees, in long white hoods and flannels, were sweltering on either +side. + +Such piety, in warm weather, was no very fragrant circumstance; so I +sought the open air again as fast as I was able. The serenity of the +evening, joined to the desire I had of casting another glance over +the ocean, tempted me to the ramparts. There, at least, thought I to +myself, I may range undisturbed, and talk with my old friends the +breezes, and address my discourse to the waves, and be as romantic +and whimsical as I please; but it happened that I had scarcely begun +my apostrophe, before out flaunted a whole rank of officers, with +ladies and abbes and puppy dogs, singing, and flirting, and making +such a hubbub, that I had not one peaceful moment to observe the +bright tints of the western horizon, or enjoy the series of antique +ideas with which a calm sunset never fails to inspire me. + +Finding, therefore, no quiet abroad, I returned to my inn, and should +have gone immediately to bed, in hopes of relapsing into the bosom of +dreams and delusions; but the limbo I mentioned before grew so very +outrageous, that I was obliged to postpone my rest till sugar-plums +and nursery eloquence had hushed it to repose. At length peace was +restored, and about eleven o'clock I fell into a slumber, during +which the most lovely Sicilian prospects filled the eye of my fancy. +I anticipated the classic scenes of that famous island, and forgot +every sorrow in the meadows of Enna. + +Next morning, awakened by the sunbeams, I arose quite refreshed by +the agreeable impressions of my dream, and filled with presages of +future happiness in the climes which had inspired them. No other +idea but such as Trinacria and Naples suggested, haunted me whilst +travelling to Ghent. I neither heard the vile Flemish dialect which +was talking around me, nor noticed formal avenues and marshy country +which we passed. When we stopped to change horses, I closed my eyes +upon the whole scene, and was transported immediately to some Grecian +solitude, where Theocritus and his shepherds were filling the air +with melody. To one so far gone in poetic antiquity, Ghent is not +the most likely place to recall his attention; and I know nothing +more about it, than that it is a large, ill-paved, dismal-looking +city, with a decent proportion of convents and chapels, stuffed with +monuments, brazen gates, and glittering marbles. In the great church +were two or three pictures by Rubens, mechanically excellent, but +these realities were not designed in so graceful a manner as to +divert my attention from the mere descriptions Pausanias gives us of +the works of Grecian artists, and I would at any time fall asleep in +a Flemish cathedral, for a vision of the temple of Olympian Jupiter. +But I think I hear, at this moment, some grave and respectable +personage chiding me for such levities, and saying, "Really, Sir, you +had better stay at home, and dream in your great chair, than give +yourself the trouble of going post through Europe, in search of +inspiring places to fall asleep. If Flanders and Holland are to be +dreamed over at this rate, you had better take ship at once, and doze +all the way to Italy." Upon my word, I should not have much +objection to that scheme; and, if some cabalist would but transport +me in an instant to the summit of AEtna, any body might slop through +the Low Countries that pleased. + +Being, however, so far advanced, there was no retracting; and as it +is now three or four years since I have almost abandoned the hopes of +discovering a necromancer, I resolved to journey along with Quiet and +Content for my companions. These two comfortable deities have, I +believe, taken Flanders under their especial protection; every step +one advances discovering some new proof of their influence. The +neatness of the houses, and the universal cleanliness of the +villages, show plainly that their inhabitants live in ease and good +humour. All is still and peaceful in these fertile lowlands: the +eye meets nothing but round, unmeaning faces at every door, and +harmless stupidity smiling at every window. The beasts, as placid as +their masters, graze on without any disturbance; and I scarcely +recollect to have heard one grunting swine or snarling mastiff during +my whole progress. Before every village is a wealthy dunghill, not +at all offensive, because but seldom disturbed; and there they bask +in the sun, and wallow at their ease, till the hour of death and +bacon arrives, when capacious paunches await them. If I may judge +from the healthy looks and reposed complexions of the Flemings, they +have every reason to expect a peaceful tomb. + +But it is high time to leave our swinish moralities behind us, and to +jog on towards Antwerp. More rich pastures, more ample fields of +grain, more flourishing willows!--a boundless plain before this city, +dotted with cows and flowers, from whence its spires and quaint roofs +are seen to advantage. The pale colours of the sky, and a few gleams +of watery sunshine, gave a true Flemish cast to the scenery, and +everything appeared so consistent, that I had not a shadow of +pretence to think myself asleep. + +After crossing a broad, noble river, edged on one side by beds of +osiers beautifully green, and on the other by gates and turrets +preposterously ugly, we came through several streets of lofty houses +to our inn. Its situation in the "Place de Mer," a vast open space +surrounded by buildings above buildings, and roof above roof, has +something striking and singular. A tall gilt crucifix of bronze, +sculptured by some famous artist, adds to its splendour; and the tops +of some tufted trees, seen above a line of magnificent hotels, have +no bad effect in the perspective. + +It was almost dusk when we arrived; and as I am very partial to new +objects discovered by this dubious visionary light, I went +immediately a-rambling. Not a sound disturbed my meditations; there +were no groups of squabbling children or talkative old women. The +whole town seemed retired into their inmost chambers; and I kept +winding and turning about, from street to street, and from alley to +alley, without meeting a single inhabitant. Now and then, indeed, +one or two women in long cloaks and mantles glided about at a +distance; but their dress was so shroud-like, and their whole +appearance so ghostly, that I was more than half afraid to accost +them. As the night approached, the ranges of buildings grew more and +more dim, and the silence which reigned amongst them more awful. The +canals, which in some places intersect the streets, were likewise in +perfect solitude, and there was just light sufficient for me to +observe on the still waters the reflection of the structures above +them. Except two or three tapers glimmering through the casements, +no one circumstance indicated human existence. I might, without +being thought very romantic, have imagined myself in the city of +petrified people, which Arabian fabulists are so fond of describing. +Were any one to ask my advice upon the subject of retirement, I +should tell him,--By all means repair to Antwerp. No village amongst +the Alps, or hermitage upon Mount Lebanon, is less disturbed: you +may pass your days in this great city without being the least +conscious of its sixty thousand inhabitants, unless you visit the +churches. There, indeed, are to be heard a few devout whispers, and +sometimes, to be sure, the bells make a little chiming; but walk +about, as I do, in the twilights of midsummer, and be assured your +ears will be free from all molestation. + +You can have no idea how many strange, amusing fancies played around +me whilst I wandered along; nor how delighted I was with the novelty +of my situation. But a few days ago, thought I within myself, I was +in the midst of all the tumult and uproar of London: now, as if by +some magic influence, I am transported to a city equally remarkable +for streets and edifices, but whose inhabitants seem cast into a +profound repose. What a pity that we cannot borrow some small share +of this soporific disposition! It would temper that restless spirit +which throws us sometimes into such dreadful convulsions. However, +let us not be too precipitate in desiring so dead a calm; the time +may arrive when, like Antwerp, we may sink into the arms of +forgetfulness; when a fine verdure may carpet our Exchange, and +passengers traverse the Strand, without any danger of being smothered +in crowds, or lost in the confusion of carriages. + +Reflecting, in this manner, upon the silence of the place, contrasted +with the important bustle which formerly rendered it so famous, I +insensibly drew near to the cathedral, and found myself, before I was +aware, under its stupendous tower. It is difficult to conceive an +object more solemn or imposing than this edifice at the hour I first +beheld it. Dark shades hindered my examining the lower galleries or +windows; their elaborate carved work was invisible; nothing but huge +masses of building met my sight, and the tower, shooting up four +hundred and sixty-six feet into the air, received an additional +importance from the gloom which prevailed below. The sky being +perfectly clear, several stars twinkled through the mosaic of the +spire, and added not a little to its enchanted effect. I longed to +ascend it that instant, to stretch myself out upon its very summit, +and calculate from so sublime an elevation the influence of the +planets. + +Whilst I was indulging my astrological reveries, a ponderous bell +struck ten, and such a peal of chimes succeeded, as shook the whole +edifice, notwithstanding its bulk, and drove me away in a hurry. No +mob obstructed my passage, and I ran through a succession of streets, +free and unmolested, as if I had been skimming along over the downs +of Wiltshire. My servants conversing before the hotel were the only +sounds which the great "Place de Mer" echoed. + +This universal stillness was the more pleasing, when I looked back +upon those scenes of horror and outcry which filled London but a week +or two ago, when danger was not confined to night only, and the +environs of the capital, but haunted our streets at midday. Here, I +could wander over an entire city; stray by the port, and venture +through the most obscure alleys, without a single apprehension; +without beholding a sky red and portentous with the light of fires, +or hearing the confused and terrifying murmurs of shouts and groans, +mingled with the reports of artillery. I can assure you, I think +myself very fortunate to have escaped the possibility of another such +week of desolation, and to be peaceably roosted at Antwerp. Were I +not still fatigued with my heavy progress through sands and +quagmires, I should descant a little longer upon the blessings of so +quiet a metropolis, but it is growing late, and I must retire to +enjoy it. + + + +LETTER III + + + +ANTWERP, June 23rd. + +My windows look full upon the Place de Mer, and the sun, beaming +through their white curtains, awoke me from a dream of Arabian +happiness. Imagination had procured herself a tent on the mountains +of Sanaa, covered with coffee-trees in bloom. She was presenting me +the essence of their flowers, and was just telling me that you +possessed a pavilion on a neighbouring hill, when the sunshine +dispelled the vision; and opening my eyes, I found myself pent in by +Flemish spires and buildings: no hills, no verdure, no aromatic +breezes, no hope of being in your vicinity: all were vanished with +the shadows of fancy, and I was left alone to deplore your absence. +But I think it rather selfish to wish you here, for what pleasure +could pacing from one dull church to another, afford a person of your +turn? I don't believe you would catch a taste for blubbering +Magdalens and coarse Madonnas, by lolling in Rubens' chair; nor do I +believe a view of the Ostades and Snyders, so liberally scattered in +every collection, would greatly improve your pencil. + +After breakfast this morning I began my pilgrimage to all those +illustrious cabinets. First, I went to Monsieur Van Lencren's, who +possesses a suite of apartments, lined, from the base to the cornice, +with the rarest productions of the Flemish school. Heavens forbid I +should enter into a detail of their niceties! I might as well count +the dew-drops upon any of Van Huysem's flower-pieces, or the pimples +on their possessor's countenance; a very good sort of man, indeed; +but from whom I was not at all sorry to be delivered. + +My joy was, however, of short duration, as a few minutes brought me +into the courtyard of the Chanoin Knyfe's habitation; a snug abode, +well furnished with easy chairs and orthodox couches. After viewing +the rooms on the first floor, we mounted a gentle staircase, and +entered an ante-chamber, which those who delight in the imitations of +art rather than of nature, in the likenesses of joint stools and the +portraits of tankards, would esteem most capitally adorned: but it +must be confessed, that, amongst these uninteresting performances, +are dispersed a few striking Berghems and agreeable Polemburgs. In +the gallery adjoining, two or three Rosa de Tivolis merit +observation; and a large Teniers, representing a St. Anthony +surrounded by a malicious fry of imps and leering devilesses, is well +calculated to display the whimsical buffoonery of a Dutch +imagination. + +I was observing this strange medley, when the Canon made his +appearance; and a most prepossessing figure he has, according to +Flemish ideas. In my humble opinion his Reverence looked a little +muddled or so; and, to be sure, the description I afterwards heard of +his style of living, favours not a little my surmises. This worthy +dignitary, what with his private fortune and the good things of the +church, enjoys a revenue of about five thousand pounds sterling, +which he contrives to get rid of in the joys of the table and the +encouragement of the pencil. + +His servants, perhaps, assist not a little in the expenditure of so +comfortable an income; the Canon being upon a very social footing +with them all. At four o'clock in the afternoon, a select party +attend him in his coach to an alehouse about a league from the city; +where a table, well spread with jugs of beer and handsome cheeses, +waits their arrival. After enjoying this rural fare, the same +equipage conducts them back again, by all accounts, much faster than +they came; which may well be conceived, as the coachman is one of the +brightest wits of the entertainment. + +My compliments, alas! were not much relished, you may suppose, by +this jovial personage. I said a few favourable words of Polemburg, +and offered up a small tribute of praise to the memory of Berghem; +but, as I could not prevail upon Mynheer Knyfe to expand, I made one +of my best bows, and left him to the enjoyment of his domestic +felicity. + +In my way home, I looked into another cabinet, the greatest ornament +of which was a most sublime thistle by Snyders, of the heroic size, +and so faithfully imitated that I dare say no ass could see it +unmoved. At length, it was lawful to return home; and as I +positively refused visiting any more cabinets in the afternoon, I +sent for a harpsichord of Rucker, and played myself quite out of the +Netherlands. + +It was late before I finished my musical excursion, and I took +advantage of this dusky moment to revisit the cathedral. A flight of +starlings was fluttering about one of the pinnacles of the tower; +their faint chirpings were the only sounds that broke the stillness +of the air. Not a human form appeared at any of the windows around; +no footsteps were audible in the opening before the grand entrance; +and, during the half hour I spent in walking to and fro beneath the +spire, one solitary Franciscan was the only creature that accosted +me. From him I learnt that a grand service was to be performed next +day in honour of St. John the Baptist, and the best music in Flanders +would be called forth on the occasion. As I had seen cabinets enough +to form some slight judgment of Flemish painting, I determined to +stay one day longer at Antwerp to hear a little how its inhabitants +were disposed to harmony. + +Having taken this resolution, I formed an acquaintance with Mynheer +Vander Bosch, the first organist of the place, who very kindly +permitted me to sit next him in his gallery during the celebration of +high mass. The service ended, I strayed about the aisles, and +examined the innumerable chapels which decorate them, whilst Mynheer +Vander Bosch thundered and lightened away upon his huge organ with +fifty stops. + +When the first flashes of execution were a little subsided, I took an +opportunity of surveying the celebrated "Descent from the Cross," +which has ever been esteemed one of Rubens's chef d'oeuvres, and for +which they say old Lewis Baboon offered no less a sum than forty +thousand florins. The principal figure has, doubtless, a very +meritorious paleness, and looks as dead as an artist could desire; +the rest of the group have been so liberally praised, that there is +no occasion to add another tittle of commendation. A swinging St. +Christopher, fording a brook with a child on his shoulders, cannot +fail of attracting your attention. This colossal personage is +painted on the folding-doors which defend the capital performance +just mentioned from vulgar eyes; and here Rubens has selected a very +proper subject to display the gigantic coarseness of his pencil. + +Had this powerful artist confined his strength to the representation +of agonizing thieves and sturdy Barabbases, nobody would have been +readier than your humble servant to offer incense at his shrine, but +when I find him lost in the flounces of the Virgin's drapery, or +bewildered in the graces of St. Catherine's smile, pardon me if I +withhold my adoration. After I had most dutifully observed all the +Rubenses in the church, I walked half over Antwerp in search of St. +John's relics, which were moving about in procession, but an +heretical wind having extinguished all their tapers, and discomposed +the canopy over the Bon Dieu, I cannot say much for the grandeur of +the spectacle. If my eyes were not greatly regaled by the Saint's +magnificence, my ears were greatly affected in the evening by the +music which sang forth his praises. The cathedral was crowded with +devotees and perfumed with incense. Several of its marble altars +gleamed with the reflection of lamps, and, altogether, the spectacle +was new and imposing. I knelt very piously in one of the aisles +while a symphony in the best style of Corelli, performed with taste +and feeling, transported me to Italian climates, and I was quite +vexed, when a cessation dissolved the charm, to think that I had +still so many tramontane regions to pass, before I could in effect +reach that classic country, where my spirit had so long taken up its +abode. Finding it was in vain to wish or expect any preternatural +interposition, and perceiving no conscious angel, or Loretto-vehicle, +waiting in some dark consecrated corner to bear me away, I humbly +returned to my hotel in the Place de Mer, and soothed myself with +some terrestrial harmony; till, my eyes growing heavy, I fell fast +asleep, and entered the empire of dreams, according to custom, by its +ivory portal. What passed in those shadowy realms is too thin and +unsubstantial to be committed to paper. The very breath of waking +mortals would dissipate all the train, and drive them eternally away; +give me leave, therefore, to omit the relation of my visionary +travels, and have the patience to pursue a sketch of my real ones +from Antwerp to the Hague. + +Monday, June 26th, we were again upon the pave, rattling and jumbling +along between clipped hedges and blighted avenues. The plagues of +Egypt have been renewed, one might almost imagine, in this country, +by the appearance of the oak-trees: not a leaf have the insects +spared. After having had the displeasure of seeing no other objects +for several hours, but these blasted rows, the scene changed to vast +tracts of level country, buried in sand, and smothered with heath; +the particular character of which I had but too good an opportunity +of intimately knowing, as a tortoise might have kept pace with us +without being once out of breath. + +Towards evening, we entered the dominions of the United Provinces, +and had all their glory of canals, track-shuyts, and windmills before +us. The minute neatness of the villages, their red roofs, and the +lively green of the willows which shade them, corresponded with the +ideas I had formed of Chinese prospects; a resemblance which was not +diminished upon viewing on every side the level scenery of enamelled +meadows, with stripes of clear water across them, and innumerable +barges gliding busily along. Nothing could be finer than the +weather; it improved each moment, as if propitious to my exotic +fancies; and, at sunset, not one single cloud obscured the horizon. +Several storks were parading by the water-side, amongst flags and +osiers; and, as far as the eye could reach, large herds of +beautifully spotted cattle were enjoying the plenty of their +pastures. I was perfectly in the environs of Canton, or Ning Po, +till we reached Meerdyke. You know fumigations are always the +current recipe in romance to break an enchantment; as soon, +therefore, as I left my carriage, and entered my inn, the clouds of +tobacco which filled every one of its apartments dispersed my Chinese +imaginations, and reduced me in an instant to Holland. + +Why should I enlarge upon my adventures at Meerdyke? To tell you +that its inhabitants are the most uncouth bipeds in the universe +would be nothing very new or entertaining; so let me at once pass +over the village, leave Rotterdam, and even Delft, that great parent +of pottery, and transport you with a wave of my pen to the Hague. + +As the evening was rather warm, I immediately walked out to enjoy the +shade of the long avenue which leads to Scheveling. It was fresh and +pleasant enough, but I breathed none of those genuine woody perfumes, +which exhale from the depths of forests, and which allure my +imagination at once to the haunts of Pan and the good old Sylvanus. +However, I was far from displeased with my ramble; and, consoling +myself with the hopes of shortly reposing in the sylvan labyrinths of +Nemi, I proceeded to the village on the sea-coast, which terminates +the perspective. Almost every cottage door being open to catch the +air, I had an opportunity of looking into their neat apartments. +Tables, shelves, earthenware, all glisten with cleanliness; the +country people were drinking tea, after the fatigues of the day, and +talking over its bargains and contrivances. + +I left them, to walk on the beach, and was so charmed with the vast +azure expanse of ocean, which opened suddenly upon me, that I +remained there a full half hour. More than two hundred vessels of +different sizes were in sight, the last sunbeams purpling their +sails, and casting a path of innumerable brilliants athwart the +waves. What would I not have given to follow this shining track! It +might have conducted me straight to those fortunate western climates, +those happy isles which you are so fond of painting, and I of +dreaming about. But, unluckily, this passage was the only one my +neighbours the Dutch were ignorant of. To be sure they have islands +rich in spices, and blessed with the sun's particular attention, but +which their government, I am apt to imagine, renders by no means +fortunate. + +Abandoning therefore all hopes at present of this adventurous voyage, +I returned towards the Hague, and, in my way home, looked into a +country-house of the late Count Bentinck, with parterres and bosquets +by no means resembling (one should conjecture) the gardens of the +Hesperides. But, considering that the whole group of trees, +terraces, and verdure were in a manner created out of hills of sand, +the place may claim some portion of merit. The walks and alleys have +all the stiffness and formality our ancestors admired; but the +intermediate spaces, being dotted with clumps and sprinkled with +flowers, are imagined in Holland to be in the English style. An +Englishman ought certainly to behold it with partial eyes, since +every possible attempt has been made to twist it into the taste of +his country. + +I need not say how liberally I bestowed my encomiums on Count B.'s +tasteful intentions; nor how happy I was, when I had duly serpentized +over his garden, to find myself once more in the grand avenue. All +the way home, I reflected upon the economical disposition of the +Dutch, who raise gardens from heaps of sand, and cities out of the +bosom of the waters. I had still a further proof of this thrifty +turn, since the first object I met was an unwieldy fellow (not able, +or unwilling, perhaps, to afford horses) airing his carcass in a one- +dog chair. The poor animal puffed and panted,--Mynheer smoked, and +gaped around him with the most blessed indifference. + + + +LETTER IV + + + +June 30th. + +I dedicated the morning to the Prince of Orange's cabinet of +paintings and curiosities both natural and artificial. Amongst the +pictures which amused me the most is a St. Anthony, by Hell-fire +Brughel, who has shown himself right worthy of the title; for a more +diabolical variety of imps never entered the human imagination. +Brughel has made his saint take refuge in a ditch filled with harpies +and creeping things innumerable, whose malice, one should think, +would have lost Job himself the reputation of patience. Castles of +steel and fiery turrets glare on every side, from whence issue a band +of junior devils. These seem highly entertained with pinking poor +St. Anthony, and whispering, I warrant ye, filthy tales in his ear. +Nothing can be more rueful than the patient's countenance; more +forlorn than his beard; more pious than his eye, which forms a strong +contrast to the pert winks and insidious glances of his persecutors; +some of whom; I need not mention, are evidently of the female kind. + +But really I am quite ashamed of having detained you in such bad +company so long; and, had I a moment to spare, you should be +introduced to a better set in this gallery, where some of the most +exquisite Berghems and Wouvermans I ever beheld would delight you for +hours. I do not think you would look much at the Polemburgs; there +are but two, and one of them is very far from capital; in short I am +in a great hurry; so pardon me, Carlo Cignani! if I don't do justice +to your merit; and excuse me, Potter! if I pass by your herds without +leaving a tribute of admiration. + +Mynheer Van Something is as eager to precipitate my motions as I was +to get out of the damps and perplexities of Soorflect yesterday +evening; so mounting a very indifferent staircase, he led me to a +suite of garret-like apartments; which, considering the meanness of +their exterior, I was much surprised to find stored with some of the +most valuable productions of the Indies. Gold cups enriched with +gems, models of Chinese palaces in ivory, glittering armour of +Hindostan, and Japan caskets, filled every corner of this awkward +treasury. What of all its baubles pleased me most was a large coffer +of some precious wood, containing enamelled flasks of oriental +essences, enough to perfume a zenana, and so fragrant that I thought +the Mogul himself a Dutchman, for lavishing them upon this inelegant +nation. If disagreeable fumes, as I mentioned before, dissolve +enchantments, such aromatic oils have doubtless the power of raising +them; for, whilst I scented their fragrance, scarcely could anything +have persuaded me that I was not in the wardrobe of Hecuba, - + + +"Where treasur'd odours breath'd a costly scent." + + +I saw, or seemed to see, the arched apartments, the procession of +venerable matrons, the consecrated vestments: the very temple began +to rise upon my sight, when a Dutch porpoise approaching to make me a +low bow; his complaisance was full as notorious as Satan's, when, +according to Catholic legends, he took leave of Calvin or Dr. +Faustus. No spell can resist a fumigation of this nature; away fled +palace, Hecuba, matrons, temple, etc. I looked up, and lo! I was in +a garret. As poetry is but too often connected with this lofty +situation, you won't wonder much at my flight. Being a little +recovered from it, I tottered down the staircase, entered the +cabinets of natural history, and was soon restored to my sober +senses. A grave hippopotamus contributed a great deal to their +reestablishment. + +The butterflies, I must needs confess, were very near leading me +another dance: I thought of their native hills and beloved flowers, +of Haynang and Nan-Hoa; {110} but the jargon which was prating all +around me prevented the excursion, and I summoned a decent share of +attention for that ample chamber which has been appropriated to +bottled snakes and pickled foetuses. + +After having enjoyed the same spectacle in the British Museum, no +very new or singular objects can be selected in this. One of the +rarest articles it contains is the representation in wax of a human +head, most dexterously flayed indeed! Rapturous encomiums have been +bestowed by amateurs on this performance. A German professor could +hardly believe it artificial; and, prompted by the love of truth, set +his teeth in this delicious morsel to be convinced of its reality. +My faith was less hazardously established; and I moved off, under the +conviction that art had never produced anything more horridly +natural. + +It was one o'clock before I got through the mineral kingdom; and +another hour passed before I could quit with decorum the regions of +stuffed birds and marine productions. At length my departure was +allowable; and I went to dine at Sir Joseph Yorke's, with all nations +and languages. The Hague is the place in the world for a motley +assembly, and, in some humours, I think such the most agreeable. + +After coffee I strayed to the great wood, which, considering that it +almost touches the town with its boughs, is wonderfully forest-like. +Not a branch being ever permitted to be lopped, the oaks and beeches +retain their natural luxuriance, and form some of the most +picturesque groups conceivable. In some places their straight boles +rise sixty feet without a bough; in others, they are bent +fantastically over the alleys, which turn and wind about just as a +painter would desire. I followed them with eagerness and curiosity, +sometimes deviating from my path amongst tufts of fern and herbage. + +In these cool retreats I could not believe myself near canals and +windmills; the Dutch formalities were all forgotten whilst +contemplating the broad masses of foliage above, and the wild flowers +and grasses below. Several hares and rabbits scudded by me while I +sat; and the birds were chirping their evening song. Their +preservation does credit to the police of the country, which is so +exact and well regulated as to suffer no outrage within the precincts +of this extensive wood, the depth and thickness of which seem +calculated to favour half the sins of a capital. + +Relying upon this comfortable security, I lingered unmolested amongst +the beeches till the ruddy gold of the setting sun ceased to glow on +their foliage; then taking the nearest path, I suffered myself, +though not without regret, to be conducted out of this fresh sylvan +scene to the dusty, pompous parterres of the Greffier Fagel. Every +flower that wealth can purchase diffuses its perfume on one side; +whilst every stench a canal can exhale, poisons the air on the other. +These sluggish puddles defy all the power of the United Provinces, +and retain the freedom of stinking in spite of their endeavours: but +perhaps I am too bold in my assertion; for I have no authority to +mention any attempts to purify these noxious pools. Who knows but +their odour is congenial to a Dutch constitution? One should be +inclined to this supposition by the numerous banqueting-rooms and +pleasure-houses which hang directly above their surface, and seem +calculated on purpose to enjoy them. If frogs were not excluded from +the magistrature of their country (and I cannot but think it a little +hard that they are), one should not wonder at this choice. Such +burgomasters might erect their pavilions in such situations. But, +after all, I am not greatly surprised at the fishiness of their site, +since very slight authority would persuade me there was a period when +Holland was all water, and the ancestors of the present inhabitants +fish. A certain oysterishness of eye and flabbiness of complexion +are almost proofs sufficient of this aquatic descent: and pray tell +me for what purpose are such galligaskins as the Dutch burthen +themselves with contrived, but to tuck up a flouncing tail, and thus +cloak the deformity of their dolphin-like terminations? + +Having done penance for some time in the damp alleys which line the +borders of these lazy waters, I was led through corkscrew sand-walks +to a vast flat, sparingly scattered over with vegetation. To puzzle +myself in such a labyrinth there was no temptation, so taking +advantage of the lateness of the hour, and muttering a few +complimentary promises of returning at the first opportunity, I +escaped the ennui of this endless scrubbery, and got home, with the +determination of being wiser and less curious if ever my stars should +bring me again to the Hague. To-morrow I bid it adieu, and if the +horses but second my endeavours, shall be delivered in a few days +from the complicated plagues of the United Provinces. + + + +LETTER V + + + +HAERLEM, July 1st. + +The sky was clear and blue when we left the Hague, and we travelled +along a shady road for about an hour, then down sunk the carriage +into a sand-bed, and we were dragged along so slowly that I fell into +a profound repose. How long it lasted is not material; but when I +awoke, we were rumbling through Leyden. There is no need to write a +syllable in honour of this illustrious city: its praises have +already been sung and said by fifty professors, who have declaimed in +its university, and smoked in its gardens. So let us get out of it +as fast as we can, and breathe the cool air of the wood near Haerlem, +where we arrived just as day declined. Hay was making in the fields, +and perfumed the country far and wide with its reviving fragrance. I +promised myself a pleasant walk in the groves, took up Gesner, and +began to have pretty pastoral ideas; but when I approached the nymphs +that were dispersed on the meads, and saw faces that would have +dishonoured a flounder, and heard accents that would have confounded +a hog, all my dislike to the walking filth of the Low Countries +returned. I let fall the garlands I had wreathed for the shepherds; +we jumped into the carriage, and were driven off to the town. Every +avenue to it swarmed with people, whose bustle and agitation seemed +to announce that something extraordinary was going forward. Upon +inquiry I found it was the great fair at Haerlem; and before we had +advanced much farther, our carriage was surrounded by idlers and +gingerbread-eaters of all denominations. Passing the gate, we came +to a cluster of little illuminated booths beneath a grove, glittering +with toys and looking-glasses. It was not without difficulty that we +reached our inn, and then the plague was to procure chambers; at last +we were accommodated, and the first moment I could call my own has +been dedicated to you. + +You won't be surprised at the nonsense I have written, since I tell +you the scene of the riot and uproar from whence it bears date. At +this very moment the confused murmur of voices and music stops all +regular proceedings: old women and children tattling; apes, bears, +and show-boxes under the windows; French rattling, English swearing, +outrageous Italians, frisking minstrels; tambours de basque at every +corner; myself distracted; a confounded squabble of cooks and +haranguing German couriers just arrived, their masters following +open-mouthed; nothing to eat, the steam of ham and flesh-pots all the +while provoking their appetite; Mynheers very busy with the +realities, and smoking as deliberately as if in a solitary lusthuys +over the laziest canal in the Netherlands; squeaking chambermaids in +the galleries above, and prudish dames below, half inclined to +receive the golden solicitations of certain beauties for admittance, +but positively refusing them the moment some creditable personage +appears; eleven o'clock strikes; half the lights in the fair are +extinguished; scruples grow less and less delicate; Mammon prevails, +darkness and complaisance succeed. Good-night; may you sleep better +than I shall. + + + +LETTER VI + + + +UTRECHT, July 2nd. + +Well, thank Heaven, Amsterdam is behind us! How I got thither +signifies not one farthing; it was all along a canal, as usual. The +weather was hot enough to broil an inhabitant of Bengal; and the +odours, exhaling from every quarter, sufficiently powerful to regale +the nose of a Hottentot. + +Under these agreeable circumstances we entered the great city. The +Stadt-huys being the only cool place it contained, I repaired thither +as fast as the heat permitted, and walked in a lofty marble hall, +magnificently covered, till the dinner was ready at the inn. That +despatched, we set off for Utrecht. Both sides of the way are lined +with the country-houses and gardens of opulent citizens, as fine as +gilt statues and clipped hedges can make them. Their number is quite +astonishing: from Amsterdam to Utrecht, full thirty miles, we beheld +no other objects than endless avenues and stiff parterres scrawled +and flourished in patterns like the embroidery of an old maid's work- +bag. Notwithstanding this formal taste, I could not help admiring +the neatness and arrangement of every inclosure, enlivened by a +profusion of flowers, and decked with arbours, beneath which a vast +number of round unmeaning faces were solacing themselves after the +heat of the day. Each lusthuys we passed contained some comfortable +party dozing over their pipes, or angling in the muddy fish-ponds +below. Scarce an avenue but swarmed with female josses; little squat +pug-dogs waddling at their sides, the attributes, I suppose, of these +fair divinities. + +But let us leave them to loiter thus amiably in their Elysian groves, +and arrive at Utrecht; which, as nothing very remarkable claimed my +attention, I hastily quitted to visit a Moravian establishment at +Siest, in its neighbourhood. The chapel, a large house, late the +habitation of Count Zinzendorf, and a range of apartments filled with +the holy fraternity, are totally wrapped in dark groves, overgrown +with weeds, amongst which some damsels were straggling, under the +immediate protection of their pious brethren. + +Traversing the woods, we found ourselves in a large court, built +round with brick edifices, the grass-plats in a deplorable way, and +one ragged goat, their only inhabitant, on a little expiatory scheme, +perhaps, for the failings of the fraternity. I left this poor animal +to ruminate in solitude, and followed my guide into a series of shops +furnished with gew-gaws and trinkets, said to be manufactured by the +female part of the society. Much cannot be boasted of their +handiworks: I expressed a wish to see some of these industrious fair +ones; but, upon receiving no answer, found this was a subject OF +WHICH THERE WAS NO DISCOURSE. + +Consoling myself as well as I was able, I put myself under the +guidance of another slovenly disciple, who showed me the chapel, and +harangued very pathetically upon celestial love. In my way thither, +I caught a glimpse of some pretty sempstresses, warbling melodious +hymns as they sat needling and thimbling at their windows above. I +had a great inclination to have approached this busy group, but the +roll of the brother's eye corrected me. + +Reflecting upon my unworthiness, I retired from the consecrated +buildings, and was driven back to Utrecht, not a little amused with +my expedition. If you are as well disposed to be pleased as I was, I +shall esteem myself very lucky, and not repent sending you so +incorrect a narrative. I really have not time to look it over, and +am growing so drowsy, that you will, I hope, pardon all its errors, +when you consider that my pen writes in its sleep. + + + +LETTER VII + + + +SPA, July 6th. + +From Utrecht to Bois le Duc nothing but sand and heath; no +inspiration, no whispering foliage, not even a grasshopper, to put +one in mind of Eclogues and Theocritus. "But why did you not fall +into one of your beloved slumbers, and dream of poetic mountains? +This was the very country to shut one's eyes upon without +disparagement." Why so I did, but the postillions and boatmen +obliged me to open them, as soon as they were closed. Four times was +I shoved, out of my visions, into leaky boats, and towed across as +many idle rivers. I thought there was no end of these tiresome +transits; and, when I reached my journey's end, was so completely +jaded that I almost believed Charon would be the next aquatic I +should have to deal with. The fair light of the morning (Tuesday, +July 4th) was scarcely sufficient to raise my spirits, and I had left +Bois le Duc a good way in arrears before I was thoroughly convinced +of my existence; when I looked through the blinds of the carriage, +and saw nothing but barren plains and mournful willows, banks clad +with rushes, and heifers so black and dismal that Proserpine herself +would have given them up to Hecate. I was near believing myself in +the neighbourhood of a certain evil place, where I should be punished +for all my croakings. We travelled at this rate, I dare say, fifteen +miles, without seeing a single shed: at last, one or two miserable +cottages appeared, darkened by heath, and stuck in a sand-pit; from +whence issued a half-starved generation, that pursued us a long while +with their piteous wailings. The heavy roads and ugly prospects, +together with the petulant clamours of my petitioners, made me quite +uncharitable. I was in a dark, remorseless mood, which lasted me +till we reached Bree, a shabby decayed town, encompassed by walls and +ruined turrets. Having nothing to do, I straggled about them, till +night shaded the dreary prospects, and gave me an opportunity of +imagining them, if I pleased, noble and majestic. Several of these +waning edifices were invested with thick ivy: the evening was chill, +and I crept under their covert. Two or three brother owls were +before me, but politely gave up their pretensions to the spot, and, +as soon as I appeared, with a rueful whoop flitted away to some +deeper retirement. I had scarcely begun to mope in tranquillity, +before a rapid shower trickled amongst the clusters above me, and +forced me to abandon my haunt. Returning in the midst of it to my +inn, I hurried to bed, and was soon lulled asleep by the storm. A +dream bore me off to Persepolis; and led me thro' vast subterraneous +treasures to a hall, where Solomon, methought, was holding forth upon +their vanity. I was upon the very point of securing a part of this +immense wealth, and fancied myself writing down the sage prophet's +advice how to make use of it, when a loud vociferation in the street, +and the bell of a neighbouring chapel, dispersed the vision. +Starting up, I threw open the windows, and found it was eight o'clock +(Wednesday, July 5th), and had hardly rubbed my eyes, before beggars +came limping from every quarter. I knew their plaguy voices but too +well; and that the same hubbub had broken my slumbers, and driven me +from wisdom and riches to the regions of ignorance and poverty. The +halt, the lame, and the blind, being restored, by the miracle of a +few stivers, to their functions, we breakfasted in peace, and, +gaining the carriage, waded through sandy deserts to Maestricht: our +view, however, was considerably improved, for a league round the +town, and presented some hills and pleasant valleys, smiling with +crops of grain: here and there, green meadows, spread over with hay, +varied the prospect, which the chirping of birds (the first I had +heard for many a tedious day) amongst the barley, rendered so +cheerful, that I began, like them, my exultations, and was equally +thoughtless and serene. I need scarcely tell you, that, leaving the +coach, I pursued a deep furrow between two extensive corn-fields, and +reposed upon a bank of flowers, the golden ears waving above my head, +and entirely bounding my prospect. Here I lay, in peace and +sunshine, a few happy moments; contemplating the blue sky, and +fancying myself restored to the valley at F., where I have passed so +many happy hours, shut out from the world, and concealed in the bosom +of harvests. It was then I first grew so fond of dreaming; and no +wonder, since I have frequently imagined that Ceres did not disdain +to inspire my slumbers; but, half concealed, half visible, would tell +me amusing stories of her reapers; and, sometimes more seriously +inclined, recite the affecting tale of her misfortunes. At midday, +when all was still, and a warm haze seemed to repose on the face of +the landscape, I have often fancied this celestial voice bewailing +Proserpine, in the most pathetic accents. From these sacred moments +I resolved to offer sacrifice in the fields of Enna; to explore their +fragrant recesses, and experience whether the Divinity would not +manifest herself to me in her favourite domain. It was this vow, +which tempted me from my native valleys. Its execution, therefore, +being my principal aim, I deserted my solitary bank and proceeded on +my journey. Maestricht abounds in Gothic churches, but contains no +temple to Ceres. I was not sorry to quit it, after spending an hour +unavoidably within its walls. Our road was conducted up a +considerable eminence, from the summit of which we discovered a range +of woody steeps, extending for leagues; beneath lay a winding valley, +richly variegated and lighted up by the Maese. The evening sun, +scarcely gleaming through hazy clouds, cast a pale, tender hue upon +the landscape, and the copses, still dewy with a shower that had +lately fallen, diffused the most grateful fragrance. Flocks of sheep +hung browsing on the acclivities, whilst a numerous herd were +dispersed along the river's side. I stayed so long, enjoying this +pastoral scene, that we did not arrive at Liege till the night was +advanced, and the moon risen. Her interesting gleams were thrown +away upon this ill-built, crowded city; and I grieved that gates and +fortifications prevented my breathing the fresh air of the +surrounding mountains. + +Next morning (July 6th) a zigzag road brought us, after many descents +and rises, to Spa. The approach, through a rocky vale, is not +totally devoid of picturesque merit, and as I met no cabriolets or +tituppings on the chaufee, I concluded that the waters were not as +yet much visited; and that I should have their romantic environs +pretty much to myself. But, alas, how rudely was I deceived! The +moment we entered up flew a dozen sashes. Chevaliers de St. Louis, +meagre Marquises, and ladies of the scarlet order of Babylon, all +poked their heads out. In a few minutes half the town was in motion; +tailors, confectioners, and barbers thrusting bills into our hands +with manifold grimaces and contortions. Then succeeded a grand entre +of valets de place, who were hardly dismissed before the lodging +letters arrived, followed by somebody with a list of les seigneurs +and dames as long as a Welsh pedigree. Half-an-hour was wasted in +speeches and recommendations; another passed before we could snatch a +morsel of refreshment; they then finding I was neither inclined to go +to the ball, nor enter the land where Pharaoh reigneth, peace was +restored, a few feeble bows were scraped, and I found myself in +perfect solitude. Taking advantage of this quiet moment, I stole out +of town, and followed a path cut in the rocks, which brought me to a +young wood of oaks on their summits. Luckily I met no saunterer: +the gay vagabonds, it seemed, were all at the assembly, as happy as +billiards and chit-chat could make them. It was not an evening to +tempt such folks abroad. The air was cool, and the sky lowering; a +melancholy cloud shaded the wild hills and irregular woods at a +distance. There was something so importunate in their appearance, +that I could not help asking their name, and was told they were +skirts of the forest of Ardenne, amongst whose enchanted labyrinths +the heroes of Boyardo and Ariosto roved formerly in quest of +adventures. I felt myself singularly affected whilst gazing upon a +wood so celebrated in romance for feats of the highest chivalry; and, +Don Quixote-like, would have explored its recesses in search of that +memorable fountain of hatred, which (if you recollect the story) was +raised by Merlin to free illustrious knights and damsels from the +torments of rejected love. So far was I advanced in these romantic +fancies, that, forgetting the lateness of the hour, I wandered on, +expecting to reach the fountain at every step; but at length it grew +so dusky that, unable to trace back my way amongst the thickets, in +vain I strayed through intricate copses, till the clouds began to +disperse and the moon appeared. Being so placed as to receive the +full play of silver radiance, to my no small surprise, I beheld a +precipice immediately beneath my feet. The chasm was deep and awful; +something like the entrance to a grot discovered itself below, and if +I had not already been disappointed on the score of the fount, I +won't answer but that I should have flung myself adventurously down, +and tried whether I might not have seen such wonders as appeared to +Bradamante, when cast by Pinnabel, rather impolitely, into Merlin's +cave. But no propitious light beaming from the cavity, I concluded +times were changed; and searching about me, found at last a shelving +steep, which it was just possible to descend without goat's heels, +and that's all. + +In my way home, I passed the redoute, and seeing a vast glare of +lustres in its apartments, I ran upstairs and found the gamblers all +eager in storming the Pharaoh Bank: a young Englishman of +distinction seemed the most likely to raise the siege, which +increased every instant in turbulence; but not feeling the least +inclination to protract or to shorten its fate, I left the knights to +their adventures, and returned ingloriously to my inn. + +All languages are chattering at the Table d'Hote, and all sorts of +business transacted under my very windows. The racket and perfume of +this place make me resolve to get out of it to-morrow; as that is the +case, you won't hear from me till I reach Munich. Adieu! May we +meet in our dreams by the fountain of Merlin, and from thence take +our flight with Astolpho to the moon; for I shrewdly suspect the best +part of our senses are bottled up there; and then, you know, it will +be a delightful novelty to wake up with a clear understanding. + +"Indeed, Sir, no Monsieur comme il faut, ever left Spa in such +dudgeon before, unless jilted by a Polish princess, or stripped by an +itinerant Count! You have neither breakfasted at the Vauxhall, nor +attended the Spectacle, nor tasted the waters. Had you but taken one +sip, your ill-humour would have all trickled away, and you would have +felt both your heels and your elbows quite alive in the evening."-- +Granted; but pray tell your postillions to drive off as fast as their +horses will carry them. + +Away we went to Aix-la-Chapelle about ten at night, and saw the +mouldering turrets of that once illustrious capital by the help of a +candle and lantern. An old woman asked our names (for not a single +soldier appeared); and traversing a number of superannuated streets +without perceiving the least trace of Charlemagne or his Paladins, we +procured comfortable though not magnificent apartments, and slept +most unheroically sound, till it was time to set forward for +Dusseldorf. + +July 8th.--As we were driven out of the town, I caught a glimpse of a +grove, hemmed in by dingy buildings, where a few water-drinkers were +sauntering along to the sound of some rueful French horns; the wan +greenish light admitted through the foliage made them look like +unhappy souls condemned to an eternal lounge for having trifled away +their existence. It was not with much regret that I left such a +party behind; and, after experiencing the vicissitudes of good roads +and rumbling pavements, found myself, towards the close of evening, +upon the banks of the Rhine. + +Many wild ideas thronged into my mind, the moment I beheld this +celebrated river. I thought of the vast regions through which it +flows, and suffered my imagination to expatiate as far as its source. +A red, variegated sky, reflected from the stream, the woods trembling +on its banks, and the spires of Nuys rising beyond them, helped to +amuse my fancy. Not being able to brook the confinement of the +carriage, I left it to come over at its leisure; and, stepping into a +boat, rowed along, at first, by the quivering osiers; then, launching +out into the midst of the waters, I glided a few moments with the +current, and resting on my oars, listened to the hum of voices afar +off, while several little skiffs, like canoes, glanced before my +sight, concerning which distance and the twilight allowed me to make +a thousand fantastic conjectures. When I had sufficiently indulged +these extravagant reveries, I began to cross over the river in good +earnest; and being landed on its opposite margin, travelled forwards +to the town. + +Nothing but the famous gallery of paintings could invite strangers to +stay a moment within its walls; more crooked streets, more +indifferent houses, one seldom meets with; except soldiers, not a +living creature moving about them; and at night a complete regiment +of bugs "marked me for their own." Thus I lay, at once both the seat +of war and the victim of these detestable animals, till early in the +morning (Sunday, July 9th), when Morpheus, compassionating my +sufferings, opened the ivory gates of his empire, and freed his +votary from the most unconscionable vermin that ever nastiness +engendered. In humble prose, I fell fast asleep; and remained quiet, +in defiance of my adversaries, till it was time to survey the +cabinet. + +This collection is displayed in five large galleries, and contains +some valuable productions of the Italian school; but the room most +boasted of is that which Rubens has filled with no less than three +enormous representations of the last day, where an innumerable host +of sinners are exhibited as striving in vain to avoid the tangles of +the devil's tail. The woes of several fat luxurious souls are +rendered in the highest gusto. Satan's dispute with some brawny +concubines, whom he is lugging off in spite of all their resistance, +cannot be too much admired by those who approve this class of +subject, and think such strange imbroglios in the least calculated to +raise a sublime or a religious idea. + +For my own part, I turned from them with disgust, and hastened to +contemplate a Holy Family by Camillo Procaccini, in another +apartment. The brightest imagination can never conceive any figure +more graceful than that of the young Jesus; and if ever I beheld an +inspired countenance or celestial features, it was here: but to +attempt conveying in words what colours alone can express, would be +only reversing the absurdity of many a master in the gallery, who +aims to represent those ideas by colours which language alone is able +to describe. Should you admit this opinion, you won't be surprised +at my passing such a multitude of renowned pictures unnoticed; nor at +my bringing you out of the cabinet without deluging ten pages with +criticisms in the style of the ingenious Lady M---. + +As I had spent so much time in gazing at Camillo's divinity, the day +was too far advanced to think of travelling to Cologne; I was +therefore obliged to put myself once more under the dominion of the +most inveterate bugs in the universe. This government, like many +others, made but an indifferent use of its power, and the subject +suffering accordingly was extremely rejoiced at flying from his +persecutors to Cologne. + +July 10th.--Clouds of dust hindered my making any remarks on the +exterior of this celebrated city; but if its appearance be not more +beautiful from without than within, I defy Mr. Salmon himself to +launch forth very warmly in its praise. But of what avail are +stately palaces, broad streets, or airy markets, to a town which can +boast of such a treasure as the bodies of those three wise sovereigns +who were star-led to Bethlehem? Is not this circumstance enough to +procure it every respect? I really believe so, from the pious and +dignified contentment of its inhabitants. They care not a hair of an +ass's ear whether their houses be gloomy and ill-contrived, their +pavements overgrown with weeds, and their shops with filthiness, +provided the carcasses of Gaspar, Melchior, and Balthazar might be +preserved with proper decorum. Nothing, to be sure, can be richer +than the shrine which contains these precious relics. I paid my +devotions before it the moment I arrived; this step was inevitable: +had I omitted it, not a soul in Cologne but would have cursed me for +a Pagan. + +Do you not wonder at hearing of these venerable bodies so far from +their native country? I thought them snug in some Arabian pyramid +ten feet deep in spice; but you see one can never tell what is to +become of one a few ages hence. Who knows but the Emperor of Morocco +may be canonized some future day in Lapland? I asked, of course, how +in the name of miracles they came hither; but found no story of a +supernatural conveyance. It seems the holy Empress Helena, as great +a collectress of relics as the D---s of P. is of profane curiosities, +first routed them out: then they were packed off to Rome. King +Alaric, having no grace, bundled them down to Milan; where they +remained till it pleased God to inspire an ancient archbishop with +the fervent wish of depositing them at Cologne. There these +skeletons were taken into the most especial consideration, crowned +with jewels and filigreed with gold. Never were skulls more +elegantly mounted; and I doubt whether Odin's buffet could exhibit so +fine an assortment. The chapel containing these beatified bones is +placed in a dark extremity of the cathedral. Several golden lamps +gleam along the polished marbles with which it is adorned, and afford +just light enough to read the following monkish inscription:- + + +"CORPORA SANCTORUM RECUBANT HIC TERNA MAGORUM; +EX HIS SUBLATUM NIHIL EST ALIBIVE LOCATUM." + + +After I had satisfied my curiosity with respect to the peregrinations +of the consecrated skeletons, I examined their shrine; and was rather +surprised to find it not only enriched with barbaric gold and pearl, +but covered with cameos and intaglios of the best antique sculpture. +Many an impious emperor and gross Silenus, many a wanton nymph and +frantic bacchanal, figure in the same range with the statues of +saints and evangelists. How St. Helena could tolerate such a mixed +assembly (for the shrine was formed under her auspices) surpasses my +comprehension. Perhaps you will say it is no great matter, and give +me a hint to move out of the chapel, lest the three kings and their +star should lead me quite out of my way. Very well; I think I had +better stop in time, to tell you, without further excursion, that we +set off after dinner for Bonn. + +Our road-side was lined with beggarly children, high convent walls, +and scarecrow crucifixes, lubberly monks, dejected peasants, and all +the delights of Catholicism. Such scenery not engaging a share of my +attention, I kept gazing at the azure irregular mountains which +bounded our view, and in thought was already transported to their +summits. Various are the prospects I surveyed from this imaginary +exaltation, and innumerable the chimeras which trotted in my brain. +Mounted on these fantastic quadrupeds, I shot swiftly from rock to +rock, and built castles in the style of Piranesi upon most of their +pinnacles. The magnificence and variety of my aerial towers hindered +my thinking the way long. I was still walking with a crowd of +phantoms upon their terraces, when the carriage made a halt. +Immediately descending the innumerable flights of steps which divide +such lofty edifices from the lower world, I entered the inn at Bonn, +and was shown into an apartment which commands the chief front of the +Elector's palace. You may guess how contemptible it appeared to one +just returned from the court of fancy. + +In other respects, I saw it in a very favourable moment; for the +twilight, shading the whole facade, concealed its plaistered walls +and painted pillars; their pediments and capitals being tolerably +well proportioned, and the range of windows beneath considerable, I +gave the architect more credit than he deserved, and paced to and fro +beneath the arcade, as pompously as if arrived at the Vatican; but +the circumstance which rendered my walk in reality agreeable, was the +prevalence of a delicious perfume. It was so dusky, that I was a +minute or two seeking in vain the entrance of an orangery, from +whence this reviving scent proceeded. At length I discovered it; +and, passing under an arch, found myself in the midst of lemon and +orange trees, now in the fullest blow, which form a continued grove +before the palace, and extend, on each side of its grand portal, out +of sight. A few steps separate this extensive terrace from a lawn, +bordered by stately rows of beeches. Beyond, in the centre of this +striking theatre, rises a romantic assemblage of distant mountains, +crowned with the ruins of castles, whose turrets, but faintly seen, +were just such as you have created to complete a prospect. I was the +only human being in the misty extent of the gardens, and was happier +in my solitude than I can describe. No noise disturbed its silence, +except the flutter of moths and trickling of fountains. These +undecided sounds, corresponding with the dimness and haze of the +scenery, threw me into a pensive state of mind, neither gay nor +dismal. I recapitulated the wayward adventures of my childhood, and +traced back each moment of a period, which had seen me happy. Then, +turning my thoughts towards future days, my heart beat at the idea of +that awful veil which covers the time to come. One moment, 'twas the +brightest hope that glittered behind it; the next, a series of +melancholy images clouded the perspective. Thus, alternately swayed +by fears and exultation, I passed an interesting hour in the +twilight, ranging amongst the orange trees, or reclined by the +fountain. I could not boast of being perfectly satisfied, since +those were absent, without whom not even the fields of Enna could be +charming. However, I was far from displeased with the clear streams +that bubbled around, and could willingly have dropped asleep by their +margin. Had I reposed in so romantic a situation, the murmurs of +trees and waters would doubtless have invited "some strange +mysterious dream" to hover over me, and perhaps futurity might have +been unveiled. + + + +LETTER VIII + + + +July 11th.--Let those who delight in picturesque country repair to +the borders of the Rhine, and follow the road which we took from Bonn +to Coblentz. In some places it is suspended like a cornice above the +waters; in others, it winds behind lofty steeps and broken +acclivities, shaded by woods and clothed with an endless variety of +plants and flowers. Several green paths lead amongst this vegetation +to the summits of the rocks, which often serve as the foundation of +abbeys and castles, whose lofty roofs and spires, rising above the +cliffs, impress passengers with ideas of their grandeur, that might +probably vanish upon a nearer approach. Not choosing to lose any +prejudice in their favour, I kept a respectful distance whenever I +left my carriage, and walked on the banks of the river. + +Just before we came to Andernach, an antiquated town with strange +morisco-looking towers, I spied a raft, at least three hundred feet +in length, on which ten or twelve cottages were erected, and a great +many people employed in sawing wood. The women sat spinning at their +doors, whilst their children played among the water-lilies that +bloomed in abundance on the edge of the stream. A smoke, rising from +one of these aquatic habitations, partially obscured the mountains +beyond, and added not a little, to their effect. + +Altogether, the scene was so novel and amusing, that I sat half an +hour contemplating it from an eminence under the shade of some leafy +walnuts; and should like extremely to build a moveable village, +people it with my friends, and so go floating about from island to +island, and from one woody coast of the Rhine to another. Would you +dislike such a party? I am much deceived, or you would be the first +to explore the shades and promontories beneath which we should be +wafted along. + +But I don't think you would find Coblentz, where we were obliged to +take up our night's lodging, much to your taste. 'Tis a mean, dirty +assemblage of plastered houses, striped with paint, and set off with +wooden galleries, in the beautiful taste of St. Giles's. Above, on a +rock, stands the palace of the Elector, which seems to be remarkable +for nothing but situation. I did not bestow many looks on this +structure whilst ascending the mountain across which our road to +Mayence conducted us. + +July 12th.--Having attained the summit, we discovered a vast, +irregular range of country, and advancing, found ourselves amongst +downs bounded by forests and purpled with thyme. This sort of +prospect extending for several leagues, I walked on the turf, and +inhaled with avidity the fresh gales that blew over its herbage, till +I came to a steep slope overgrown with privet and a variety of +luxuriant shrubs in blossom; there reposing beneath its shade, I +gathered flowers, listened to the bees, observed their industry, and +idled away a few minutes with great fascination. A cloudless sky and +bright sunshine made me rather loth to move on; but the charms of the +landscape, increasing every instant, drew me forward. + +I had not gone far, before a winding valley discovered itself, shut +in by rocks and mountains clothed to their very summits with the +thickest woods. A broad river, flowing at the base of the cliffs, +reflected the impending vegetation, and looked so calm and glassy +that I was determined to be better acquainted with it. For this +purpose we descended by a zigzag path into the vale, and making the +best of our way on the banks of the Lune (for so is the river +called), came suddenly upon the town of Ems, famous in mineral story; +where finding very good lodgings, we took up our abode, and led an +Indian life amongst the wilds and mountains. + +After supper I walked on a smooth lawn by the river, to observe the +moon journeying through a world of silver clouds that lay dispersed +over the face of the heavens. It was a mild genial evening; every +mountain cast its broad shadow on the surface of the stream; lights +twinkled afar off on the hills; they burnt in silence. All were +asleep, except a female figure in white, with glow-worms shining in +her hair. She kept moving disconsolately about; sometimes I heard +her sigh; and if apparitions sigh, this must have been an apparition. +Upon my return, I asked a thousand questions, but could never obtain +any information of the figure and its luminaries. + +July 13th.--The pure air of the morning invited me early to the +hills. Hiring a skiff, I rowed about a mile down the stream, and +landed on a sloping meadow, level with the waters, and newly mown. +Heaps of hay still lay dispersed under the copses which hemmed in on +every side this little sequestered paradise. What a spot for a tent! +I could encamp here for months, and never be tired. Not a day would +pass by without discovering some new promontory, some untrodden +pasture, some unsuspected vale, where I might remain among woods and +precipices lost and forgotten. I would give you, and two or three +more, the clue of my labyrinth: nobody else should be conscious of +its entrance. Full of such agreeable dreams, I rambled about the +meads, scarcely knowing which way I was going; sometimes a spangled +fly led me astray, and, oftener, my own strange fancies. Between +both, I was perfectly bewildered, and should never have found my boat +again, had not an old German naturalist, who was collecting fossils +on the cliffs, directed me to it. + +When I got home it was growing late, and I now began to perceive that +I had taken no refreshment, except the perfume of the hay and a few +wood strawberries; airy diet, you will observe, for one not yet +received into the realms of Ginnistan. {127} + +July 14th.--I have just made a discovery, that this place as full of +idlers and water-drinkers as their Highnesses of Orange and Hesse +Darmstadt can desire; for to them accrue all the profits of its +salubrious fountains. I protest, I knew nothing of all this +yesterday, so entirely was I taken up with the rocks and meadows; no +chance of meeting either card or billiard players in their solitudes. +Both abound at Ems, where they hop and fidget from ball to ball, +unconscious of the bold scenery in their neighbourhood, and totally +insensible to its charms. They had no notion, not they, of admiring +barren crags and precipices, where even the Lord would lose his way, +as a coarse lubber decorated with stars and orders very ingeniously +observed to me; nor could they form the least conception of any +pleasure there was in climbing like a goat amongst the cliffs, and +then diving into woods and recesses where the sun had never +penetrated; where there were neither card-tables prepared nor +sideboards garnished; no jambon de Mayence in waiting; no supply of +pipes, nor any of the commonest delights, to be met with in the +commonest taverns. + +To all this I acquiesced with most perfect submission, but +immediately left the orator to entertain a circle of antiquated dames +and weather-beaten officers who were gathering around him. Scarcely +had I turned my back upon this polite assembly, when Monsieur +l'Administrateur des bains, a fine pompous fellow, who had been +maitre d'hotel in a great German family, came forward purposely to +acquaint me, I suppose, that their baths had the honour of possessing +Prince Orloff, "avec sa grande maitresse, son Chamberlain et quelques +Dames d'Honneur:" moreover, that his Highness came hither to refresh +himself after his laborious employments at the Court of Petersburg, +and expected (grace aux eaux!) to return to the domains his august +sovereign had lately bestowed upon him in perfect health, and to +become the father of his people. + +Wishing Monsieur d'Orloff all possible success, I should have left +the company at a great distance, had not a violent shower stopped my +career, and obliged me to return to my apartment. The rain growing +heavier, intercepted the prospect of the mountains, and spread such a +gloom over the vale as sank my spirits fifty degrees; to which a +close foggy atmosphere not a little contributed. Towards night the +clouds assumed a more formidable aspect. Thunder rolled awfully +along the distant cliffs, and several rapid torrents began to run +down the steeps. Unable to stay within, I walked into an open +portico, listening to the murmur of the river, mingled with the roar +of falling waters. At intervals a blue flash of lightning discovered +their agitated surface, and two or three scared women rushing through +the storm and calling all the saints in Paradise to their assistance. + +Things were in this state, when the orator who had harangued so +brilliantly on the nothingness of ascending mountains, took shelter +under the porch, and entering immediately into conversation, regaled +my ears with a woful narration of murders which had happened the +other day on the precise road I was to follow next morning. + +"Sir," said he, "your route is, to be sure, very perilous: on the +left you have a chasm, down which, should your horses take the +smallest alarm, you are infallibly precipitated; to the right hangs +an impervious wood, and there, sir, I can assure you, are wolves +enough to devour a regiment; a little farther on, you cross a +desolate tract of forest land, the roads so deep and broken, that if +you go ten paces in as many minutes you may think yourself fortunate. +There lurk the most savage banditti in Europe, lately irritated by +the Prince of Orange's proscription; and so desperate, that if they +once attack, you can expect no mercy. Should you venture through +this hazardous district to-morrow, you will, in all probability, meet +a company of people who have just left the town to search for the +mangled bodies of their relations; but, for Heaven's sake, sir, if +you value your life, do not suffer an idle curiosity to lead you over +such dangerous regions, however picturesque their appearance." + +I own I felt rather intimidated by so formidable a prospect, and was +very near abandoning my plan of crossing the mountains, and so go +back again and round about, the Lord knows where; but considering +this step would be quite unheroical, I resolved to attribute my fears +to the gloom of the moment, and the dejection it occasioned. It was +almost nine o'clock before my kind adviser ceased inspiring me with +terrors; then, finding myself at liberty, I retired to bed, not under +the most agreeable impressions; and after tossing and tumbling in the +agitation of tumultuous slumbers, I started up at seven in the +morning of July 15th, ordered the horses, and set forward, without +further dilemmas. Though it had thundered almost the whole night, +the air was still clogged with vapours, the mountains bathed in humid +clouds, and the scene I had so warmly admired no longer discernible. +Proceeding along the edge of the precipices I had been forewarned of, +for about an hour, and escaping that peril at least, we traversed the +slopes of a rude, heathy hill, in instantaneous expectation of foes +and murderers. A misty rain prevented us seeing above ten yards +before us, and every uncouth oak or rocky fragment we approached +seemed lurking spies or gigantic enemies. One time the murmur of the +wind among invisible woods of beech, sounded like the wail of +distress; and at another the noise of a torrent we could not +discover, counterfeited the report of musquetry. In this suspicious +manner we journeyed through the forest which had so recently been the +scene of assaults and depredations. At length, after winding several +restless hours amongst its dreary avenues, we emerged into open +daylight. The sky cleared, a cultivated vale lay before us, and the +evening sun, gleaming bright through the vapours, cast a cheerful +look upon some corn-fields, and seemed to promise better times. A +few minutes more brought us safe to the village of Viesbaden, where +we slept in peace and tranquillity. + +July 16th.--Our apprehensions entirely dispersed, we rose light and +refreshed from our slumbers, and passing through Mayence, Oppenheim, +and Worms, travelled gaily over the plain in which Mannheim is +situated. The sun set before we arrived there, and it was by the +mild gleams of the rising moon, that I first beheld the vast +electoral palace, and those long straight streets and neat white +houses, which distinguish this elegant capital from almost every +other. + +Numbers of well-dressed people were amusing themselves with music and +fireworks in the squares and open spaces; other groups appeared +conversing in circles before their doors, and enjoying the serenity +of the evening. Almost every window bloomed with carnations; and we +could hardly cross a street without hearing the German flute. A +scene of such happiness and refinement contrasted in the most +agreeable manner with the dismal prospects we had left behind. No +storms, no frightful chasms, were here to alarm us, no ruffians or +lawless plunderers. All around was peace, security, and contentment +in their most engaging attire. + +July 17th.--Though all impatience to reach that delightful classic +region which already possesses, as I have often said, the better half +of my spirit, I could not think of leaving Mannheim unexplored; and +therefore resolved to give up the day to the halls and galleries of +the electoral palace. Those, which contain the cabinet of paintings +and sculptures in ivory, form a regular suite of nine immense +apartments, about three hundred and seventy-two feet in length, well- +proportioned and uniformly floored with inlaid wood. Each room has +ample folding-doors richly gilt and varnished. When seen in +perspective these entrances have the most magnificent effect +imaginable. Nothing can give nobler ideas of space than such an +enfilade of saloons unencumbered by heavy furniture, where the eyes +range without interruption: I wandered alone from one to the other, +and was never wearied with contemplating the variety of pictures +which enliven the scene, and convey the highest idea of the +collector's taste. When my curiosity was a little satisfied, I left +this amusing series of apartments with regret, visited the library +which the present Elector Palatine has formed, upon the same great +scale that characterizes his other collections, and, after viewing +the rest of the palace, saw the opera house, which may boast of +having contained one of the first bands in Europe: from thence I +returned home in a very musical humour. + +An excellent harpsichord seconded this disposition, which lasted me +till late in the evening; when growing drowsy, I yielded to the +influence of sleep, and was in an instant transported to a far more +delightful palace than that of the elector; where I expatiated in +perfumed apartments with yellow light, and conversed with none but +Albano and Claude Lorrain, till the beams of the morning sun entered +my chamber, and forced my visiting companions to fly murmuring to the +shades. I cannot say but I was sorry to leave Mannheim, though my +acquaintance with it was entirely confined to inanimate objects. The +cheerful air and free range of the galleries would be sufficient, for +several days, for my amusement; as you know I could people them with +phantoms. Not many leagues out of town, lie the famous gardens of +Schweidsing. The weather being extremely warm, we were glad to avail +ourselves of their shades. There are a great many fountains inclosed +by thickets of shrubs, and cool alleys which lead to arbours of +trellis-work, festooned with nasturtiums and convolvuluses. Several +catalpas and sumachs in full flower gave considerable richness to the +scenery; and whilst we walked amongst them, a fresh breeze gently +waved their summits. The tall poplars and acacias, quivering with +the air, cast innumerable shadows on the intervening plats of +greensward, and, as they moved their branches, discovered other walks +beyond, and distant jets of water rising above their foliage, and +sparkling in the sun. After passing a multitude of shady avenues, +terminated by temples or groups of statues, we followed our guide +through a kind of arched bower to a little opening in the wood, +neatly paved with different coloured pebbles. On one side, appeared +niches and alcoves, ornamented with spars and polished marbles; on +the other, an aviary; in front, a superb pavilion, with baths, +porticos, and cabinets, fitted up in the most elegant and luxurious +style. The song of exotic birds; the freshness of the surrounding +verdure heightened by falling streams; and that dubious poetic light +admitted through thick foliage, so agreeable after the glare of a +sultry day, detained me for some time in an alcove reading Spenser, +and imagining myself but a few paces removed from the Idle Lake. I +would fain have loitered an hour more in this enchanted bower, had +not the gardener, whose patience was quite exhausted, and who had +never heard of the Red-Cross Knight and his achievements, dragged me +away to a sunburnt, contemptible hillock, commanding the view of a +serpentine ditch, and decorated with the title of Jardin Anglois. +Some object like decayed limekilns and mouldering ovens, is disposed +in an amphitheatrical form, on the declivity of this tremendous +eminence: and there is to be ivy, and a cascade, and what not, as my +conductor observed. A glance was all I bestowed on this caricature +upon English gardens; I then went off in a huff at being chased from +my bower, and grumbled all the road to Entsweigen; where, to our +misfortune, we lay amidst hogs and vermin, who amply revenged my +quarrels with their country. + +July 20th.--After travelling a post or two, we came in sight of a +green moor, with many insulated woods and villages; the Danube +sweeping majestically along, and the city of Ulm rising upon its +banks. The fields in its neighbourhood were overspread with cloths +bleaching in the sun, and waiting for barks which convey them down +the great river, in ten days, to Vienna, and from thence through +Hungary, into the midst of the Turkish Empire. I almost envied the +merchants their voyage, and descending to the edge of the stream, +proffered my orisons to Father Danube, beseeching him to remember me +to the regions through which he flows. I promised him an altar and +solemn rites, should he grant my request, and was very idolatrous, +until the shadows lengthening over the unlimited plains on his +margin, reminded me that the sun would be shortly sunk, and that I +had still above fifteen miles to go. Gathering a purple iris that +grew upon the bank, I wore it to his honour; and have reason to fancy +my piety was rewarded, as not a fly or an insect dared to buzz about +me the whole evening. + +You never saw a brighter sky nor more glowing clouds than gilded our +horizon. The air was impregnated with the perfume of clover, and for +ten miles we beheld no other objects than smooth levels enamelled +with flowers, and interspersed with thickets of oak, beyond which +appeared a long series of mountains, that distance and the evening +tinged with an interesting azure. Such were the very spots for +youthful games and exercises, open spaces for tilts, and spreading +shades to screen the spectators. + +Father Lafiteau tells us, there are many such vast and flowery meads +in the interior of America, to which the roving tribes of Indians +repair once or twice in a century to settle the rights of the chase, +and lead their solemn dances; and so deep an impression do these +assemblies leave on the minds of the savages, that the highest ideas +they entertain of future felicity consist in the perpetual enjoyment +of songs and dances upon the green boundless lawns of their elysium. +In the midst of these visionary plains rises the abode of Aneantsic, +encircled by choirs of departed chieftains leaping in cadence to the +mournful sound of spears as they ring on the shell of the tortoise. +Their favourite attendants, long separated from them whilst on earth, +are restored again in this ethereal region, and skim freely over the +vast level space; now hailing one group of beloved friends, and now +another. Mortals newly ushered by death into this world of pure blue +sky and boundless meads, see the long-lost objects of their affection +advancing across the lawn to meet them. Flights of familiar birds, +the purveyors of many an earthly chase, once more attend their +progress, whilst the shades of their faithful dogs seem coursing each +other below. Low murmurs and tinkling sounds fill the whole region, +and, as its new denizens proceed, increase in melody, till, unable to +resist the thrilling music, they spring forward in ecstasies to join +the eternal round. + +A share of this celestial transport seemed communicated to me whilst +my eyes wandered over the plain, which appeared to widen and extend +in proportion as the twilight prevailed. + +The dusky hour, favourable to conjurations, allowed me to believe the +spirits of departed friends not far removed from the clouds, which, +to all appearance, reposed at the extremity of the prospect, and +tinted the surface of the horizon with ruddy colours. This glow +still lingered upon the verge of the landscape, after the sun +disappeared; and 'twas in those peaceful moments, when no sound but +the browsing of cattle reached me, that I imagined benign looks were +cast upon me from the golden vapours, and I seemed to catch glimpses +of faint forms moving, amongst them, which were once so dear; and +even thought my ears affected by well-known voices, long silent upon +earth. When the warm hues of the sky were gradually fading, and the +distant thickets began to assume a deeper and more melancholy blue, I +fancied a shape like Thisbe {133} shot swiftly along; and, sometimes +halting afar off, cast an affectionate look upon her old master, that +seemed to say, When you draw near the last inevitable hour, and the +pale countries of Aneantsic are stretched out before you, I will +precede your footsteps, and guide them safe through the wild +labyrinths which separate this world from yours. I was so possessed +with the ideas and so full of the remembrance of that poor, +affectionate creature, whose miserable end you were the witness of, +that I did not, for several minutes, perceive our arrival at +Guntsberg. Hurrying to bed, I seemed in my slumbers to pass that +interdicted boundary which divides our earth from the region of +Indian happiness. Thisbe ran nimbly before me; her white form +glimmered amongst dusky forests; she led me into an infinitely +spacious plain, where I heard vast multitudes discoursing upon events +to come. What further passed must never be revealed. I awoke in +tears, and could hardly find spirits enough to look around me, till +we were driving through the midst of Augsburg. + +July 21st.--We dined and rambled about this renowned city till +evening. The colossal paintings on the walls of almost every +considerable building gave it a strange air, which pleases upon the +score of novelty. + +Having passed a number of streets decorated in this exotic manner, we +found ourselves suddenly before the public hall, by a noble statue of +Augustus, under whose auspices the colony was formed. Which way +soever we turned, our eyes met some remarkable edifice, or marble +basin into which several groups of sculptured river-gods pour a +profusion of waters. These stately fountains and bronze statues, the +extraordinary size and loftiness of the buildings, the towers rising +in perspective, and the Doric portal of the town-house, answered in +some measure the idea Montfaucon gives us of the scene of an ancient +tragedy. Whenever a pompous Flemish painter attempts a +representation of Troy, and displays in his background those streets +of palaces described in the Iliad, Augsburg, or some such city, may +easily be traced. Sometimes a corner of Antwerp discovers itself; +and generally, above a Corinthian portico, rises a Gothic spire. +Just such a jumble may be viewed from the statue of Augustus, under +which I remained till the Concierge came, who was to open the gates +of the town-house, and show me its magnificent hall. + +I wished for you exceedingly when, ascending a flight of a hundred +steps, I entered it through a portal, supported by tall pillars and +crowned with a majestic pediment. Upon advancing, I discovered five +more entrances equally grand, with golden figures of guardian genii +leaning over the entablature; and saw, through a range of windows, +each above thirty feet high, and nearly level with the marble +pavement, the whole city, with all its roofs and spires, beneath my +feet. The pillars, cornices, and panels of this striking apartment +are uniformly tinged with brown and gold; and the ceiling, enriched +with emblematical paintings and innumerable canopies of carved work, +casts a very magisterial shade. Upon the whole, I should not be +surprised at a burgomaster assuming a formidable dignity in such a +room. + +I must confess it had a somewhat similar effect upon me; and I +descended the flight of steps with as much pomposity as if a +triumphal car waited at my feet, or as if on the point of giving +audience to the Queen of Sheba. It happened to be a Saint's day, and +half the inhabitants of Augsburg were gathered together in the +opening before their hall; the greatest numbers, especially the +women, still exhibiting the very identical dresses which Hollar +engraved. My lofty gait imposed upon this primitive assembly, which +receded to give me passage with as much silent respect as if I had +really been the wise sovereign of Israel. When I got home, an +execrable supper was served up to my majesty; I scolded in an unroyal +style, and soon convinced myself I was no longer Solomon. + +July 22nd.--Joy to the Electors of Bavaria! for planting such +extensive woods of fir in their dominions as shade over the chief +part of the road from Augsburg to Munich. Near the last-mentioned +city, I cannot boast of the scenery changing to advantage. Instead +of flourishing woods and verdure, we beheld a parched dreary flat, +diversified by fields of withering barley, and stunted avenues drawn +formally across them; now and then a stagnant pool, and sometimes a +dunghill, by way of regale. However, the wild rocks of the Tyrol +terminate the view, and to them imagination may fly, and walk amidst +springs and lilies of her own creation. I speak from authority, +having had the pleasure of anticipating an evening in this romantic +style. + +Tuesday next is the grand fair, with horse-races and junketings: a +piece of news I was but too soon acquainted with; for the moment we +entered the town, good-natured creatures from all quarters advised us +to get out of it; since traders and harlequins had filled every +corner of the place, and there was not a lodging to be procured. The +inns, to be sure, were like hives of industrious animals sorting +their merchandise, and preparing their goods for sale. Yet, in spite +of difficulties, we got possession of a quiet apartment. + +July 23rd.--We were driven in the evening to Nymphenburg, the +Elector's country palace, whose bosquets, jets-d'eaux, and parterres +are the pride of the Bavarians. The principal platform is all of a +glitter with gilded Cupids and shining serpents spouting at every +pore. Beds of poppies, hollyhocks, scarlet lychnis, and the most +flaming flowers, border the edge of the walks, which extend till the +perspective meets, and swarm with ladies and gentlemen in parti- +coloured raiment. The Queen of Golconda's gardens in a French opera +are scarcely more gaudy and artificial. Unluckily, too, the evening +was fine, and the sun so powerful that we were half roasted before we +could cross the great avenue and enter the thickets, which barely +conceal a very splendid hermitage, where we joined Mr. and Mrs. T., +and a party of fashionable Bavarians. + +Amongst the ladies was Madame la Contesse, I forget who, a production +of the venerable Haslang, with her daughter, Madame de ---, who has +the honour of leading the Elector in her chains. These goddesses +stepping into a car, vulgarly called a cariole, the mortals followed, +and explored alley after alley and pavilion after pavilion. Then, +having viewed Pagodenburg, which is, as they told me, all Chinese; +and Marienburg, which is most assuredly all tinsel; we paraded by a +variety of fountains in full squirt, and though they certainly did +their best (for many were set a-going on purpose), I cannot say I +greatly admired them. + +The ladies were very gaily attired, and the gentlemen, as smart as +swords, bags, and pretty clothes could make them, looked exactly like +the fine people one sees represented in a coloured print. Thus we +kept walking genteelly about the orangery, till the carriage drew up +and conveyed us to Mr. T's. + +Immediately after supper, we drove once more out of town, to a garden +and tea-room, where all degrees and ages dance jovially together till +morning. Whilst one party wheel briskly away in the valz, another +amuse themselves in a corner with cold meat and rhenish. That +despatched, out they whisk amongst the dancers, with an impetuosity +and liveliness I little expected to have found in Bavaria. After +turning round and round, with a rapidity that is quite inconceivable +to an English dancer, the music changes to a slower movement, and +then follows a succession of zig-zag minuets, performed by old and +young, straight and crooked, noble and plebeian, all at once, from +one end of the room to the other. Tallow candles snuffing and +stinking, dishes changing, heads scratching, and all sorts of +performances going forward at the same moment; the flutes, oboes, and +bassoons snorting and grunting with peculiar emphasis; now fast, now +slow, just as Variety commands, who seems to rule the ceremonial of +this motley assembly, where every distinction of rank and privilege +is totally forgotten. Once a week, on Sundays that is to say, the +rooms are open, and Monday is generally somewhat advanced before they +are deserted. If good humour and coarse merriment are all that +people desire, here they are to be found in perfection, though at the +expense of toes and noses. Both these extremities of my person +suffered most cruelly; and I was not sorry to retire about one in the +morning to a purer atmosphere. + +July 24th.--Custom condemned us to visit the palace, which glares +with looking-glass, gilding, and cut velvet, most sumptuously fringed +and spangled. The chapel, though small, is richer than anything +Croesus ever possessed, let them say what they will. Not a corner +but shines with gold, diamonds, and scraps of martyrdom studded with +jewels. I had the delight of treading amethysts and the richest gems +under foot, which, if you recollect, Apuleius thinks such supreme +felicity. Alas! I was quite unworthy of the honour, and had much +rather have trodden the turf of the mountains. Mammon would never +have taken his eyes off the pavement; mine soon left the +contemplation of it, and fixed on St. Peter's thumb, enshrined with a +degree of elegance, and adorned by some malapert enthusiast with +several of the most delicate antique cameos I ever beheld; the +subjects, Ledas and sleeping Venuses, are a little too pagan, one +should think, for an apostle's finger. + +From this precious repository we were conducted through the public +garden to a large hall, where part of the Sleitzom collection is +piled up, till a gallery can be finished for its reception. 'Twas a +matter of great favour to view, in this state, the pieces that +compose it,--a very imperfect one too, since some of the best were +under operation. But I would not upon any account have missed the +sight of Rubens's "Massacre of the Innocents." Such expressive +horrors were never yet transferred to canvas, and Moloch himself +might have gazed at them with pleasure. + +After dinner we were led round the churches; and if you are as much +tired with reading my voluminous descriptions, as I was with the +continual repetition of altars and reliquaries, the Lord have mercy +upon you! However, your delivery draws near. The post is going out, +and to-morrow we shall begin to mount the cliffs of the Tyrol; but +don't be afraid of any long-winded epistles from their summits: I +shall be too well employed in ascending them. Just now, as I have +lain by a long while, I grow sleek, and scribble on in mere +wantonness of spirit. What excesses such a correspondence is capable +of, you will soon be able to judge. + +July 25th.--The noise of the people thronging to the fair did not +allow me to slumber very long in the morning. When I got up, every +street was crowded with Jews and mountebanks, holding forth and +driving their bargains in all the energetic vehemence of the German +tongue. Vast quantities of rich merchandise glittered in the shops +as we passed along to the gates. Heaps of fruit and sweetmeats set +half the grandams and infants in the place a-cackling with felicity. + +Mighty glad was I to make my escape; and in about an hour or two, we +entered a wild tract of country, not unlike the skirts of a princely +park. A little farther on stands a cluster of cottages, where we +stopped to give our horses some bread, and were pestered with swarms +of flies, most probably journeying to Munich fair, there to feast +upon sugared tarts and bottle-noses. + +The next post brought us over hill and dale, grove and meadow, to a +narrow plain, watered by rivulets and surrounded by cliffs, under +which lies scattered the village of Wollrathshausen, consisting of +several cottages, built entirely of fir, with strange galleries +hanging over the way. Nothing can be neater than the carpentry of +these simple edifices, nor more solid than their construction; many +of them looked as if they had braved the torrents which fell from the +mountains a century ago; and, if one may judge from the hoary +appearance of the inhabitants, here are patriarchs who remember the +Emperor Lewis of Bavaria. Orchards of cherry-trees impend from the +steeps above the village, which to our certain knowledge produce no +contemptible fruit. + +Having refreshed ourselves with their cooling juice, we struck into a +grove of pines, the tallest and most flourishing perhaps we ever +beheld. There seemed no end to these forests, save where little +irregular spots of herbage, fed by cattle, intervened. Whenever we +gained an eminence it was only to discover more ranges of dark wood, +variegated with meadows and glittering streams. White clover and a +profusion of sweet-scented flowers clothe their banks; above, waves +the mountain-ash, glowing with scarlet berries; and beyond, rise +hills and rocks and mountains, piled upon one another, and fringed +with fir to their topmost acclivities. Perhaps the Norwegian forests +alone equal these in grandeur and extent. Those which cover the +Swiss highlands rarely convey such vast ideas. There, the woods +climb only half way up their ascents, and then are circumscribed by +snows: here, no boundaries are set to their progress, and the +mountains, from their bases to their summits, display rich unbroken +masses of vegetation. + +As we were surveying this prospect, a thick cloud, fraught with +thunder, obscured the transparence of the horizon, whilst flashes +startled our horses, whose snorts and stampings resounded through the +woods. What from the shade of the firs and the impending tempests, +we travelled several miles almost in total darkness. One moment the +clouds began to fleet, and a faint gleam promised serener hours, but +the next all was gloom and terror; presently a deluge of rain poured +down upon the valley, and in a short time the torrents, beginning to +swell, raged with such fury as to be with difficulty forded. +Twilight drew on, just as we had passed the most terrible; then +ascending a steep hill under a mountain, whose pines and birches +rustled with the storm, we saw a little lake below. A deep azure +haze veiled its eastern shore, and lowering vapours concealed the +cliffs to the south; but over its western extremities a few +transparent clouds, the remains of the rays of a struggling sunset, +were suspended, which streamed on the surface of the waters, and +tinged with tender pink the brow of a verdant promontory. + +I could not help fixing myself on the banks of the lake for several +minutes, till this apparition was lost, and confounded with the +shades of night. Looking round, I shuddered at a craggy mountain, +clothed in dark forests and almost perpendicular, that was absolutely +to be surmounted before we could arrive at Wallersee. No house, not +even a shed appearing, we were forced to ascend the peak, and +penetrate these awful groves. + +Great praise is due to the directors of the roads across them, which, +considering their situation, are wonderfully fine. Mounds of stone +support the passage in some places; and, in others, it is hewn with +incredible labour through the solid rock. Beeches and pines of a +hundred feet high, darken the way with their gigantic branches, +casting a chill around, and diffusing a woody odour. As we advanced, +in the thick shade, amidst the spray of torrents, and heard their +loud roar in the chasm beneath, I could scarcely help thinking myself +transported to the Grande Chartreuse; and began to conceive hopes of +once more beholding St. Bruno. {140} But, though that venerable +father did not vouchsafe an apparition, or call to me again from the +depths of the dells, he protected his votary from nightly perils, and +brought us to the banks of Wallersee Lake. We saw lights gleam upon +its shores, which directed us to a cottage where we reposed after our +toils, and were soon lulled to sleep by the fall of distant waters. + +July 26th.--The sun rose many hours before me, and when I got up was +spangling the surface of the lake, which expands between steeps of +wood, crowned by lofty crags and pinnacles. We had an opportunity of +contemplating this bold assemblage as we travelled on the banks of +the Meer, where it forms a bay sheltered by impending forests; the +water, tinged by their reflection with a deep cerulean, calm and +tranquil. Mountains of pine and beech rising above, close every +outlet; and, no village or spire peeping out of the foliage, impress +an idea of more than European solitude. I could contentedly have +passed a summer's moon in these retirements, hollowed myself a canoe, +and fished for sustenance. + +From the shore of Wallersee, our road led us straight through arching +groves, which the axe seems never to have violated, to the summit of +a rock covered with spurge-laurel, and worn by the course of torrents +into innumerable craggy forms. Beneath, lay extended a chaos of +shattered cliffs, with tall pines springing from their crevices, and +rapid streams hurrying between their intermingled trunks and +branches. As yet, no hut appeared, no mill, no bridge, no trace of +human existence. + +After a few hours' journey through the wilderness, we began to +discover a wreath of smoke; and presently the cottage from whence it +arose, composed of planks, and reared on the very brink of a +precipice. Piles of cloven spruce-fir were dispersed before the +entrance, on a little spot of verdure browsed by goats; near them sat +an aged man with hoary whiskers, his white locks tucked under a fur +cap. Two or three beautiful children, their hair neatly braided, +played around him; and a young woman, dressed in a short robe and +Polish-looking bonnet, peeped out of a wicket window. + +I was so much struck with the exotic appearance of this sequestered +family, that, crossing a rivulet, I clambered up to their cottage and +begged some refreshment. Immediately there was a contention amongst +the children, who should be the first to oblige me. A little black- +eyed girl succeeded, and brought me an earthen jug full of milk, with +crumbled bread, and a platter of strawberries fresh picked from the +bank. I reclined in the midst of my smiling hosts, and spread my +repast on the turf: never could I be waited upon with more +hospitable grace. The only thing I wanted was language to express my +gratitude; and it was this deficiency which made me quit them so +soon. The old man seemed visibly concerned at my departure; and his +children followed me a long way down the rocks, talking in a dialect +which passes all understanding, and waving their hands to bid me +adieu. + +I had hardly lost sight of them and regained my carriage before we +entered a forest of pines, to all appearance without bounds, of every +age and figure; some, feathered to the ground with flourishing +branches; others, decayed into shapes like Lapland idols. I can +imagine few situations more dreadful than to be lost at night amidst +this confusion of trunks, hollow winds whistling among the branches, +and strewing their cones below. Even at noonday, I thought we should +never have found our way out. + +At last, having descended a long avenue, endless perspectives opening +on either side, we emerged into a valley bounded by swelling hills, +divided into agreeable shady inclosures, where many herds were +grazing. A rivulet flows along the pastures beneath; and after +winding through the village of Boidou, loses itself in a narrow pass +amongst the cliffs and precipices which rise above the cultivated +slopes, and frame in this happy pastoral region. All the plain was +in sunshine, the sky blue, and the heights illuminated, except one +rugged peak with spires of rock, shaped not unlike the views I have +seen of Sinai, and wrapped, like that sacred mount, in clouds and +darkness. At the base of this tremendous mass, lies a neat hamlet +called Mittenvald, surrounded by thickets and banks of verdure, and +watered by frequent springs, whose sight and murmurs were so reviving +in the midst of a sultry day, that we could not think of leaving +their vicinity, but remained at Mittenvald the whole evening. + +Our inn had long airy galleries, and a pleasant balcony fronting the +mountain. In one of these we dined upon trout fresh from the rills, +and cherries just culled from the orchards that cover the slopes +above. The clouds were dispersing, and the topmost peak half +visible, before we ended our repast. Every moment discovering some +inaccessible cliff or summit, shining through the mists, and tinted +by the sun with pale golden colours. These appearances filled me +with such delight and with such a train of romantic associations, +that I left the table and ran to an open field beyond the huts and +gardens, to gaze in solitude and catch the vision before it dissolved +away. You, if any human being is able, may conceive true ideas of +these glowing vapours sailing over the pointed rocks; and brightening +them in their passage with amber light. + +When all were faded and lost in the blue ether, I had time to look +around me and notice the mead in which I was standing. Here, clover +covered its surface; there, crops of grain; further on, beds of herbs +and the sweetest flowers. An amphitheatre of hills and rocks, broken +into a variety of glens and precipices, guards the plain from +intrusion, and opens a course for several clear rivulets, which, +after gurgling amidst loose stones and fragments, fall down the +steeps, and are concealed and quieted in the herbage of the vale. + +A cottage or two peep out of the woods that hang over the waterfalls; +and on the brow of the hills above, appears a series of eleven little +chapels, uniformly built. I followed the narrow path that leads to +them, on the edge of the eminences, and met a troop of beautiful +peasants, all of the name of Anna (for it was her saintship's day), +going to pay their devotions, severally, at these neat white fanes. +There were faces that Guercino would not have disdained copying, with +braids of hair the softest and most luxuriant I ever beheld. Some +had wreathed it simply with flowers, other with rolls of a thin linen +(manufactured in the neighbourhood), and disposed it with a degree of +elegance one should not have expected on the cliffs of the Tyrol. + +Being arrived, they knelt all together at the first chapel, on the +steps, a minute or two, whispered a short prayer, and then dispersed +each to her fane. Every little building had now its fair worshipper, +and you may well conceive how much such figures, scattered about the +landscape, increased its charms. Notwithstanding the fervour of +their adorations (for at intervals they sighed and beat their white +bosoms with energy), several bewitching profane glances were cast at +me as I passed by. Don't be surprised, then, if I became a convert +to idolatry in so amiable a form, and worshipped St. Anna on the +score of her namesakes. + +When got beyond the last chapel, I began to hear the roar of a +cascade in a thick wood of beech and chestnut that clothes the steeps +of a wide fissure in the rock. My ear soon guided me to its +entrance, which was marked by a shed encompassed with mossy +fragments, and almost concealed by bushes of the caper-plant in full +red bloom. Amongst these I struggled, till, reaching a goat-track, +it conducted me, on the brink of the foaming waters, to the very +depths of the cliff, whence issues a stream which dashes impetuously +down, strikes against a ledge of rocks, and sprinkles the impending +thicket with dew. Big drops hung on every spray, and glittered on +the leaves partially gilt by the rays of the declining sun, whose +mellow hues softened the summits of the cliffs, and diffused a +repose, a divine calm, over this deep retirement, which inclined me +to imagine it the extremity of the earth, and the portal of some +other region of existence; some happy world beyond the dark groves of +pine, the caves and awful mountains, where the river takes its +source! I hung eagerly on the gulph, impressed with this idea, and +fancied myself listening to a voice that bubbled up with the waters; +then looked into the abyss and strained my eyes to penetrate its +gloom, but all was dark and unfathomable as futurity! Awakening from +my reverie, I felt the damps of the water chill my forehead, and ran +shivering out of the vale to avoid them. A warmer atmosphere, that +reigned in the meads I had wandered across before, tempted me to +remain a good while longer, collecting the wild pinks with which they +are strewed in profusion, and a species of thyme scented like myrrh. +Whilst I was thus employed, a confused murmur struck my ear, and, on +turning towards a cliff, backed by the woods from whence the sound +seemed to proceed, forth issued a herd of goats, hundreds after +hundreds, skipping down the steeps: then followed two shepherd boys, +gamboling together as they drove their creatures along: soon after, +the dog made his appearance, hunting a stray heifer which brought up +the rear. I followed them with my eyes till lost in the windings of +the valley, and heard the tinkling of their bells die gradually away. +Now the last blush of crimson left the summit of Sinai, inferior +mountains being long since cast in deep blue shades. The village was +already hushed when I regained it, and in a few moments I followed +its example. + +July 27th.--We pursued our journey to Inspruck, through the wildest +scenes of wood and mountain that were ever traversed, the rocks now +beginning to assume a loftier and more majestic appearance, and to +glisten with snows. I had proposed passing a day or two at Inspruck, +visiting the castle of Ambras, and examining Count Eysenberg's +cabinet, enriched with the rarest productions of the mineral kingdom, +and a complete collection of the moths and flies peculiar to the +Tyrol; but, upon my arrival, the azure of the skies and the +brightness of the sunshine inspired me with an irresistible wish of +hastening to Italy. I was now too near the object of my journey, to +delay possession any longer than absolutely necessary; so, casting a +transient look on Maximilian's tomb, and the bronze statues of +Tyrolese Counts and worthies, solemnly ranged in the church of the +Franciscans, set immediately off. + +We crossed a broad noble street, terminated by a triumphal arch, and +were driven along the road to the foot of a mountain waving with +fields of corn, and variegated with wood and vineyards, encircling +lawns of the finest verdure, scattered over with white houses +glistening in the sun. Upon ascending the mount, and beholding a +vast range of prospects of a similar character, I almost repented my +impatience, and looked down with regret upon the cupolas and steeples +we were leaving behind. But the rapid succession of lovely and +romantic scenes soon effaced the former from my memory. + +Our road, the smoothest in the world (though hewn in the bosom of +rocks), by its sudden turns and windings, gave us, every instant, +opportunities of discovering new villages, and forests rising beyond +forests; green spots in the midst of wood, high above on the +mountains, and cottages perched on the edge of promontories. Down, +far below, in the chasm, amidst a confusion of pines and fragments of +stone, rages the torrent Inn, which fills the country far and wide +with a perpetual murmur. Sometimes we descended to its brink, and +crossed over high bridges; sometimes mounted half-way up the cliffs, +till its roar and agitation became, through distance, inconsiderable. + +After a long ascent, the shades of evening reposing in the valleys, +and the upland snows still tinged with a vivid red, we reached +Schonberg, a village well worthy of its appellation: and then, +twilight drawing over us, began to descend. We could now but faintly +discover the opposite mountains, veined with silver rills, when we +came once more to the banks of the Inn. This turbulent stream +accompanied us all the way to Steinach, and broke by its continual +roar the stillness of the night, which had finished half its course +before we were settled to rest. + +July 28th.--I rose early to scent the fragrance of the vegetation, +bathed in a shower which had lately fallen, and looking around me, +saw nothing but crags hanging over crags, and the rocky shores of the +stream, still dark with the shade of the mountains. The small +opening in which Steinach is situated, terminates in a gloomy strait, +scarce leaving room for the road and the torrent, which does not +understand being thwarted, and will force its way, let the pines grow +ever so thick, or the rocks be ever so considerable. + +Notwithstanding the forbidding air of this narrow dell, Industry has +contrived to enliven its steeps with habitations, to raise water by +means of a wheel, and to cover the surface of the rocks with soil. +By this means large crops of oats and flax are produced, and most of +the huts have gardens adjoining, which are filled with poppies, +seeming to thrive in this parched situation. + + +"Urit enim lini campum seges, urit avenae, +Urunt Lethaeo perfusa papavera somno." + + +The farther we advanced in the dell, the larger were the plantations +which discovered themselves. For what purpose these gaudy flowers +meet with such encouragement, I had neither time nor language to +inquire; the mountaineers stuttering a gibberish unintelligible even +to Germans. Probably opium is extracted from them; or, perhaps, if +you love a conjecture, Morpheus has transferred his abode from the +Cimmerians, and has perceived a cavern somewhere or other in the +recesses of these endless mountains. Poppies, you know, in poetic +travels, always denote the skirts of his soporific reign, and I don't +remember a region better calculated for undisturbed repose than the +narrow clefts and gullies which run up amongst these rocks, lost in +vapours impervious to the sun, and moistened by rills and showers, +whose continual tricklings inspire a drowsiness not easily to be +resisted. Add to these circumstances the waving of the pines, with +the hum of bees seeking their food in the crevices, and you will have +as sleepy a region as that in which Spenser and Ariosto have placed +the nodding deity. + +At present, I must confess, I should not dislike submitting to his +empire, for a few months or years, just as it might happen, whilst +Europe is distracted by demons of revenge and war; whilst they are +strangling at Venice, and tearing each other to pieces in unhappy +London; whilst Etna and Vesuvius give signs of uncommon wrath; +America welters in her blood; and almost every quarter of the globe +is filled with carnage and devastation. This is the moment to humble +ourselves before the God of Sleep; to beseech him to open his dusky +portals; and admit us into the repose of his retired kingdom. If you +are inclined to become a suppliant, hasten to the Tyrol, and we will +search together about the mountains, traverse the poppy-meads, and +look into every chasm and fissure that excludes daylight, in hopes of +discovering the mansion of repose. Then when we have found this +corner (or I think our search will be successful) Morpheus will give +us an approving nod, and beckon us in silence to couch, where, soon +lulled by the murmurs of the place, we shall sink into oblivion and +tranquillity. But we may as well keep our eyes open for the present, +till we have made this important discovery, and look at the beautiful +country round Brixen, whither I arrived in the cool of the evening, +and breathed the freshness of a garden, immediately beneath my +window. The thrushes, warbling amongst its shades, saluted me, the +moment I awoke next morning. + +July 29th.--We proceeded over fertile mountains to Bolsano. Here +first I noticed the rocks cut into terraces, thick set with melons +and Indian corn; gardens of fig-trees and pomegranates hanging over +walls, clustered with fruit; amidst them, a little pleasant cot, +shaded by cypresses. In the evening we perceived several further +indications of approaching Italy; and after sunset the Adige, rolling +its full tide between precipices, which looked awful in the dusk. +Myriads of fire-flies sparkled amongst the shrubs on the bank. I +traced the course of these exotic insects by their blue light, now +rising to the summits of the trees, now sinking to the ground and +associating with vulgar glow-worms. We had opportunities enough to +remark their progress, since we travelled all night; such being my +impatience to reach the promised land! + +Morning dawned just as we saw Trent dimly before us. I slept a few +hours, then set out again (July 30th), after the heats were in some +degree abated, and leaving Bergine, where the peasants were feasting +before their doors, in their holiday dresses, with red pinks stuck in +their ears instead of rings, and their necks surrounded with coral of +the same colour, we came through a woody valley to the banks of a +lake, filled with the purest and most transparent water, which loses +itself in shady creeks, amongst hills robed with verdure from their +bases to their summits. + +The shores present one continual shrubbery, interspersed with knots +of larches and slender almonds, starting from the underwood. A +cornice of rock runs round the whole, except where the trees descend +to the very brink, and dip their boughs in the water. + +It was five o'clock when I caught the sight of this unsuspected lake, +and the evening shadows stretched nearly across it. Gaining a very +rapid ascent, we looked down upon its placid bosom, and saw several +airy peaks rising above the tufted foliage of the groves around. I +quitted the contemplation of them with regret, and, in a few hours, +arrived at Borgo di Volsugano, the scenes of the lake still present +before the eye of my fancy. + +July 31st.--My heart beat quick when I saw some hills, not very +distant, which I was told lay in the Venetian State, and I thought an +age, at least, had elapsed before we were passing their base. The +road was never formed to delight an impatient traveller; loose +pebbles and rolling stones render it, in the highest degree, tedious +and jolting. I should not have spared my execrations, had it not +traversed a picturesque valley, overgrown with juniper, and strewed +with fragments of rock, precipitated, long since, from the +surrounding eminences, blooming with cyclamens. + +I clambered up several of these crags, + + +"fra gli odoriferi ginepri," + + +to gather the flowers I have just mentioned, and found them +deliciously scented. Fratillarias, and the most gorgeous flies, many +of which I here noticed for the first time, were fluttering about and +expanding their wings to the sun. There is no describing the numbers +I beheld, nor their gaily varied colouring. I could not find in my +heart to destroy their felicity; to scatter their bright plumage and +snatch them for ever from the realms of light and flowers. Had I +been less compassionate, I should have gained credit with that +respectable corps, the torturers of butterflies; and might, perhaps, +have enriched their cabinets with some unknown captives. However, I +left them imbibing the dews of heaven, in free possession of their +native rights; and having changed horses at Tremolano, entered at +length my long-desired Italy. + +The pass is rocky and tremendous, guarded by a fortress (Covalo), in +possession of the Empress Queen, and only fit, one should think, to +be inhabited by her eagles. There is no attaining this exalted hold +but by the means of a cord let down many fathoms by the soldiers, who +live in dens and caverns, which serve also as arsenals, and magazines +for powder; whose mysteries I declined prying into, their approach +being a little too aerial for my earthly frame. A black vapour, +tinging their entrance, completed the terror of the prospect, which I +shall never forget. + +For two or three leagues it continued much in the same style; cliffs, +nearly perpendicular, on both sides, and the Brenta foaming and +thundering below. Beyond, the rocks began to be mantled with vines +and gardens. Here and there a cottage shaded with mulberries made +its appearance, and we often discovered, on the banks of the river, +ranges of white buildings, with courts and awnings, beneath which +vast numbers were employed in manufacturing silk. As we advanced, +the stream gradually widened, and the rocks receded; woods were more +frequent and cottages thicker strown. + +About five in the evening, we had left the country of crags and +precipices, of mists and cataracts, and were entering the fertile +territory of the Bassanese. It was now I beheld groves of olives, +and vines clustering the summits of the tallest elms; pomegranates in +every garden, and vases of citron and orange before almost every +door. The softness and transparency of the air soon told me I was +arrived in happier climates; and I felt sensations of joy and novelty +run through my veins, upon beholding this smiling land of groves and +verdure stretched out before me. A few glooming vapours, I can +hardly call them clouds, rested upon the extremities of the +landscape; and, through their medium, the sun cast an oblique and +dewy ray. Peasants were returning homeward from the cultivated +hillocks and corn-fields, singing as they went, and calling to each +other over the hills; whilst the women were milking goats before the +wickets of the cottages, and preparing their country fare. + +I left them enjoying it, and soon beheld the ancient ramparts and +cypresses of Bassano; whose classic appearance recalled the memory of +former times, and answered exactly the ideas I had pictured to myself +of Italian edifices. Though encompassed by walls and turrets, +neither soldiers nor custom-house officers start out from their +concealment, to question and molest a weary traveller, for such are +the blessings of the Venetian State, at least of the Terra Firma +provinces, that it does not contain, I believe, above four regiments. +Istria, Dalmatia, and the maritime frontiers, are more formidably +guarded, as they touch, you know, the whiskers of the Turkish empire. + +Passing under a Doric gateway, we crossed the chief part of the town +in the way to our locanda, pleasantly situated, and commanding a +level green, where people walk and eat ices by moonlight. On the +right, the Franciscan church and convent, half hid in the religious +gloom of pine and cypress; to the left, a perspective of walls and +towers rising from the turf, and marking it, when I arrived, with +long shadows; in front, where the lawn terminates, meadow, wood, and +garden run quite to the base of the mountains. + +Twilight coming on, this beautiful spot swarmed with people, sitting +in circles upon the grass, refreshing themselves with cooling liquors +or lounging upon the bank beneath the towers. They looked so free +and happy that I longed to be acquainted with them; and by the +interposition of a polite Venetian (who, though a perfect stranger, +showed me the most engaging marks of attention), was introduced to a +group of the principal inhabitants. Our conversation ended in a +promise to meet the next evening at a country house about a league +from Bassano, and then to return together and sing to the praise of +Pacchierotti, their idol, as well as mine. + +You can have no idea what pleasure we mutually found in being of the +same faith, and believing in one singer; nor can you imagine what +effects that musical divinity produced at Padua, where he performed a +few years ago, and threw his audience into such raptures, that it was +some time before they recovered. One in particular, a lady of +distinction, fainted away the instant she caught the pathetic accents +of his voice, and was near dying a martyr to its melody. La Contessa +Roberti, who sings in the truest taste, gave me a detail of the whole +affair. "Egli ha fatto veramente un fanatismo a Padua," was her +expression. I assured her we were not without idolatry in England, +upon his account; but that in this, as well as in other articles of +belief, there were many abominable heretics. + +August 1st.--The whole morning not a soul stirred who could avoid it. +Those who were so active and lively the night before, were now +stretched languidly upon their couches. Being to the full as idly +disposed, I sat down and wrote some of this dreaming epistle; then +feasted upon figs and melons; then got under the shade of the +cypress, and slumbered till evening, only waking to dine, and take +some ice. + +The sun declining apace, I hastened to my engagement at Mosolente +(for so is the villa called), placed on a verdant hill encircled by +others as lovely, and consisting of three light pavilions connected +by porticos: just such as we admire in the fairy scenes of an opera. +A vast flight of steps leads to the summit, where Signora Roberti and +her friends received me with a grace and politeness that can never +want a place in my memory. We rambled over all the apartments of +this agreeable edifice, characterised by airiness and simplicity. +The pavement incrusted with a composition as cool and polished as +marble; the windows, doors, and balconies adorned with silvered, iron +work, commanding scenes of meads and woodlands that extend to the +shores of the Adriatic; spires and cypresses rising above the levels; +and the hazy mountains beyond Padua, diversifying the expanse, form +altogether a landscape which the elegant imagination of Horizonti +never exceeded. Beyond the villa, a tumble of hillocks present +themselves in a variety of forms, with dips and hollows between, +scattered over with leafy trees and vines dangling in continued +garlands. + +I gazed on this rural view till it faded in the dusk; then returning +to Bassano, repaired to an illuminated hall, and had the felicity of +hearing La Signora Roberti sing the very air which had excited such +transport at Padua. As soon as she had ended, and that I could hear +no more those affecting sounds, which had held me silent and almost +breathless for several moments, a band of various instruments +stationed in the open street began a lively symphony, which would +have delighted me at any other time; but now, I wished them a +thousand leagues away, so melancholy an impression did the air I had +been listening to leave on my mind. + +At midnight I took leave of my obliging hosts, who were just setting +out for Padua. They gave me a thousand kind invitations, and I hope +some future day to accept them. + +August 2nd.--Our route to Venice lay winding about the variegated +plains I had surveyed from Mosolente; and after dining at Treviso we +came in two hours and a half to Mestre, between grand villas and +gardens peopled with statues. Embarking our baggage at the last- +mentioned place, we stepped into a gondola, whose even motion was +very agreeable after the jolts of a chaise. Stretched beneath the +awning, I enjoyed at my ease the freshness of the gales, and the +sight of the waters. We were soon out of the canal of Mestre, +terminated by an isle which contains a cell dedicated to the Holy +Virgin, peeping out of a thicket from whence spire up two tall +cypresses. Its bells tingled as we passed along and dropped some +paolis into a net tied at the end of a pole stretched out to us for +that purpose. + +As soon as we had doubled the cape of this diminutive island, an +azure expanse of sea opened to our view, the domes and towers of +Venice rising from its bosom. Now we began to distinguish Murano, +St. Michele, St. Giorgio in Alga, and several other islands, detached +from the grand cluster, which I hailed as old acquaintances; +innumerable prints and drawings having long since made their shapes +familiar. Still gliding forward, the sun casting his last gleams +across the waves, and reddening the different towers, we every moment +distinguished some new church or palace in the city, suffused with +the evening rays, and reflected with all their glow of colouring from +the surface of the waters. + +The air was still; the sky cloudless; a faint wind just breathing +upon the deep, lightly bore its surface against the steps of a chapel +in the island of Saint Secondo, and waved the veil before its portal, +as we rowed by and coasted the walls of its garden, overhung with +fig-trees and topped with Italian pines. The convent discovers +itself through their branches, built in a style somewhat morisco, and +level with the sea, except where the garden intervenes. + +Here, meditation may indulge her reveries in the midst of the surges, +and walk in cloisters, alone vocal with the whispers of the pine. I +passed this consecrated spot soon after sunset, when daylight was +expiring in the west, and when the distant woods of Fusina were lost +in the haze of the horizon. + +We were now drawing very near the city, and a confused hum began to +interrupt the evening stillness; gondolas were continually passing +and repassing, and the entrance of the Canal Reggio, with all its +stir and bustle, lay before us. Our gondoliers turned with much +address through a crowd of boats and barges that blocked up the way, +and rowed smoothly by the side of a broad pavement, covered with +people in all dresses and of all nations. + +Leaving the Palazzo Pesaro, a noble structure with two rows of +arcades and a superb rustic, behind, we were soon landed before the +Leon Bianco, which being situated in one of the broadest parts of the +grand canal, commands a most striking assemblage of buildings. I +have no terms to describe the variety of pillars, of pediments, of +mouldings, and cornices, some Grecian, others Saracenical, that adorn +these edifices, of which the pencil of Canaletti conveys so perfect +an idea as to render all verbal description superfluous. At one end +of this grand perspective appears the Rialto; the sweep of the canal +conceals the other. + +The rooms of our hotel are as spacious and cheerful as I could +desire; a lofty hall, or rather gallery, painted with grotesque in a +very good style, perfectly clean, floored with the stucco composition +I have mentioned above, divides the house, and admits a refreshing +current of air. Several windows near the ceiling look into this vast +apartment, which serves in lieu of a court, and is rendered perfectly +luminous by a glazed arcade, thrown open to catch the breezes. +Through it I passed to a balcony which impends over the canal, and is +twined round with plants forming a green festoon springing from two +large vases of orange-trees placed at each end. Here I established +myself to enjoy the cool, and observe, as well as the dusk would +permit, the variety of figures shooting by in their gondolas. + +As night approached, innumerable tapers glimmered through the awnings +before the windows. Every boat had its lantern, and the gondolas +moving rapidly along were followed by tracks of light, which gleamed +and played upon the waters. I was gazing at these dancing fires when +the sounds of music were wafted along the canals, and as they grew +louder and louder, an illuminated barge, filled with musicians, +issued from the Rialto, and stopping under one of the palaces, began +a serenade, which was clamorous and suspended all conversation in the +galleries and porticos; till, rowing slowly away, it was heard no +more. The gondoliers catching the air, imitated its cadences, and +were answered by others at a distance, whose voices, echoed by the +arch of the bridge, acquired a plaintive and interesting tone. I +retired to rest, full of the sound; and long after I was asleep, the +melody seemed to vibrate in my ear. + +August 3rd.--It was not five o'clock before I was aroused by a loud +din of voices and splashing of water under my balcony. Looking out, +I beheld the grand canal so entirely covered with fruits and +vegetables, on rafts and in barges, that I could scarcely distinguish +a wave. Loads of grapes, peaches, and melons arrived, and +disappeared in an instant, for every vessel was in motion; and the +crowds of purchasers hurrying from boat to boat, formed one of the +liveliest pictures imaginable. Amongst the multitudes, I remarked a +good many whose dress and carriage announced something above the +common rank; and upon inquiry I found they were noble Venetians, just +come from their casinos, and met to refresh themselves with fruit, +before they retired to sleep for the day. + +Whilst I was observing them, the sun began to colour the balustrades +of the palaces, and the pure exhilarating air of the morning drawing +me abroad, I procured a gondola, laid in my provision of bread and +grapes, and was rowed under the Rialto, down the grand canal, to the +marble steps of S. Maria della Salute, erected by the Senate in +performance of a vow to the Holy Virgin, who begged off a terrible +pestilence in 1630. I gazed, delighted with its superb frontispiece +and dome, relieved by a clear blue sky. To criticize columns or +pediments of the different facades, would be time lost; since one +glance upon the worst view that has been taken of them, conveys a far +better idea than the most elaborate description. The great bronze +portal opened whilst I was standing on the steps which lead to it, +and discovered the interior of the dome, where I expatiated in +solitude; no mortal appearing except an old priest who trimmed the +lamps, and muttered a prayer before the high altar, still wrapped in +shadows. The sunbeams began to strike against the windows of the +cupola just as I left the church, and was wafted across the waves to +the spacious platform in front of St. Giorgio Maggiore, by far the +most perfect and beautiful edifice my eyes ever beheld. + +When my first transport was a little subsided, and I had examined the +graceful design of each particular ornament, and united the just +proportion and grand effect of the whole in my mind, I planted my +umbrella on the margin of the sea, and reclining under its shade, my +feet dangling over the waters, viewed the vast range of palaces, of +porticos, of towers, opening on every side and extending out of +sight. The Doge's residence and the tall columns at the entrance of +the place of St. Mark, form, together with the arcades of the public +library, the lofty Campanile and the cupolas of the ducal church, one +of the most striking groups of buildings that art can boast of. To +behold at one glance these stately fabrics, so illustrious in the +records of former ages, before which, in the flourishing times of the +republic, so many valiant chiefs and princes have landed, loaded with +the spoils of different nations, was a spectacle I had long and +ardently desired. I thought of the days of Frederic Barbarossa, when +looking up the piazza of St. Mark, along which he marched in solemn +procession, to cast himself at the feet of Alexander the Third, and +pay a tardy homage to St. Peter's successor. Here were no longer +those splendid fleets that attended his progress; one solitary +galeass was all I beheld, anchored opposite the palace of the Doge, +and surrounded by crowds of gondolas, whose sable hues contrasted +strongly with its vermilion oars and shining ornaments. A party- +coloured multitude was continually shifting from one side of the +piazza to the other; whilst senators and magistrates in long black +robes were already arriving to fill their respective charges. + +I contemplated the busy scene from my peaceful platform, where +nothing stirred but aged devotees creeping to their devotions; and, +whilst I remained thus calm and tranquil, heard the distant buzz and +rumour of the town. Fortunately a length of waves rolled between me +and its tumults; so that I ate my grapes, and read Metastasio, +undisturbed by officiousness or curiosity. When the sun became too +powerful, I entered the nave, and applauded the genius of Palladio. + +After I had admired the masterly structure of the roof and the +lightness of its arches, my eyes naturally directed themselves to the +pavement of white and ruddy marble, polished, and reflecting like a +mirror the columns which rise from it. Over this I walked to a door +that admitted me into the principal quadrangle of the convent, +surrounded by a cloister supported on Ionic pillars, beautifully +proportioned. A flight of stairs opens into the court, adorned with +balustrades and pedestals, sculptured with elegance truly Grecian. +This brought me to the refectory, where the chef-d'oeuvre of Paul +Veronese, representing the marriage of Cana in Galilee, was the first +object that presented itself. I never beheld so gorgeous a group of +wedding garments before; there is every variety of fold and plait +that can possibly be imagined. The attitudes and countenances are +more uniform, and the guests appear a very genteel, decent sort of +people, well used to the mode of their times and accustomed to +miracles. + +Having examined this fictitious repast, I cast a look on a long range +of tables covered with very excellent realities, which the monks were +coming to devour with energy, if one might judge from their +appearance. These sons of penitence and mortification possess one of +the most spacious islands of the whole cluster, a princely +habitation, with gardens and open porticos, that engross every breath +of air; and, what adds not a little to the charms of their abode, is +the liberty of making excursions from it, whenever they have a mind. + +The republic, wisely jealous of ecclesiastical influence, connives at +these amusing rambles, and, by encouraging the liberty of monks and +churchmen, prevents their appearing too sacred and important in the +eyes of the people, who have frequent proofs of their being mere +flesh and blood, and that of the frailest composition. Had the rest +of Italy been of the same opinion, and profited as much by Fra +Paolo's maxims, some of its fairest fields would not, at this moment, +lie uncultivated, and its ancient spirit might have revived. +However, I can scarcely think the moment far distant, when it will +assert its natural prerogatives, awake from its ignoble slumber, and +look back upon the tiara, with all its host of idle fears and scaring +phantoms, as the offspring of a distempered dream. Scarce a +sovereign supports any longer this vain illusion, except the old +woman of Hungary, and as soon as her dim eyes are closed we shall +probably witness great events. {156} + +Full of prophecies and bodings, I moved slowly out of the cloisters; +and, gaining my gondola, arrived, I know not how, at the flights of +steps which lead to the Redenptore, a structure so simple and +elegant, that I thought myself entering an antique temple, and looked +about for the statue of the God of Delphi, or some other graceful +divinity. A huge crucifix of bronze soon brought me to times +present. + +The charm being thus dissolved, I began to perceive the shapes of +rueful martyrs peeping out of the niches around, and the bushy beards +of Capuchin friars wagging before the altars. These good fathers had +decorated their church, according to custom, with orange and citron +trees, placed between the pilasters of the arcades; and on grand +festivals, it seems, they turn the whole church into a bower, strew +the pavement with leaves, and festoon the dome with flowers. + +I left them occupied with their plants and their devotions. It was +midday, and I begged to be rowed to some woody island, where I might +dine in shade and tranquillity. My gondoliers shot off in an +instant; but, though they went at a very rapid rate, I wished to fly +faster, and getting into a bark with six oars, swept along the +waters, soon left the Zecca and San Marco behind; and, launching into +the plains of shining sea, saw turret after turret, and isle after +isle, fleeting before me. A pale greenish light ran along the shores +of the distant continent, whose mountains seemed to catch the motion +of my boat, and to fly with equal celerity. + +I had not much time to contemplate the beautiful effects on the +waters--the emerald and purple hues which gleamed along their +surface. Our prow struck, foaming, against the walls of the +Carthusian garden, before I recollected where I was, or could look +attentively around me. Permission being obtained, I entered this +cool retirement, and putting aside with my hands the boughs of fig- +trees and pomegranates, got under an ancient bay, near which several +tall pines lift themselves up to the breezes. I listened to the +conversation they held, with a wind just flown from Greece, and +charged, as well as I could understand this airy language, with many +affectionate remembrances from their relations on Mount Ida. + +I reposed amidst bay leaves, fanned by a constant air, till it +pleased the fathers to send me some provisions, with a basket of +fruit and wine. Two of them would wait upon me, and ask ten thousand +questions about Lord George Gordon, and the American war. I, who was +deeply engaged with the winds, and fancied myself hearing these rapid +travellers relate their adventures, wished my interrogators in +purgatory, and pleaded ignorance of the Italian language. This +circumstance extricated me from my difficulties, and procured me a +long interval of repose. + +The rustling of the pines had the same effect as the murmurs of other +old story-tellers, and I slept undisturbed till the people without, +in the boat (who wondered not a little, I dare say, what the deuce +was become of me within), began a sort of chorus in parts, full of +such plaintive modulation, that I still thought myself under the +influence of a dream, and, half in this world and half in the other, +believed, like the heroes of Fingal, that I had caught the music of +the spirits of the hill. + +When I was thoroughly convinced of the reality of these sounds, I +moved towards the shore from whence they proceeded: a glassy sea lay +full before me; no gale ruffled the expanse; every breath was +subsided, and I beheld the sun go down in all its sacred calm. You +have experienced the sensations this moment inspires; imagine what +they must have been in such a scene, and accompanied with a melody so +simple and pathetic. I stepped into my boat, and instead of +encouraging the speed of the gondoliers, begged them to abate their +ardour, and row me lazily home. They complied, and we were near an +hour reaching the platform before the ducal palace, thronged as usual +with a variety of nations. I mixed a moment with the crowd; then +directed my steps to the great mosque,--I ought to say the church of +St. Mark; but really its cupolas, slender pinnacles, and semicircular +arches, have so oriental an appearance, as to excuse this +appellation. I looked a moment at the four stately coursers of +bronze and gold that adorn the chief portal, and then took in, at one +glance, the whole extent of the square, with its towers and +standards. So noble an assemblage never met my eyes. I envied the +good fortune of Petrarch, who describes, in one of his letters, a +tournament held in this princely opening. + +Many are the festivals which have been here celebrated. When Henry +the Third left Poland to mount the throne of France, he passed +through Venice, and found the republic waiting to receive him in +their famous square, which by means of an awning stretched from the +balustrades of opposite palaces, was metamorphosed into a vast +saloon, sparkling with artificial stars, and spread with the richest +carpets of the East. What a magnificent idea! The ancient Romans, +in the zenith of power and luxury, never conceived a greater. It is +to them the Venetians are indebted for the hint, since we read of the +Coliseo and Pompey's theatre being sometimes covered with transparent +canvas, to defend the spectators from the heat or sudden rain, and to +tint the scene with soft agreeable colours, like the hues of the +declining sun. + +Having enjoyed the general perspective of the piazza, I began to +enter into particulars, and examine the bronze pedestals of the three +standards before the great church, designed by Sansovino in the true +spirit of the antique, and covered with relievos, at the same time +bold and elegant. It is also to this celebrated architect we are +indebted for the stately facade of the Proccuratie nuove, which forms +one side of the square, and presents an uninterrupted series of +arcades and marble columns exquisitely wrought. Opposite this +magnificent range appears another line of palaces, whose +architecture, though far removed from the Grecian purity of +Sansovino, impresses veneration, and completes the pomp of the view. + +There is something strange and singular in the tower, which rises +distinct from the smooth pavement of the square, a little to the left +as you stand before the chief entrance of St. Mark's. The design is +rather barbarous, and terminates in uncouth and heavy pyramids; yet +in spite of these defects it struck me with awe. A beautiful +building called the Loggetta, and which serves as a guard-house +during the convocation of the grand council, decorates its base. +Nothing can be more enriched, more finished than this structure; +which, though far from diminutive, is in a manner lost at the foot of +the Campanile. This enormous mass seems to promise a very long +duration, and will probably carry down the fame of St. Mark and his +Lion to the latest posterity. Both appear in great state towards its +summit, and have nothing superior, but an archangel perched on the +topmost pinnacle, and pointing to the skies. The dusk prevented my +remarking the various sculptures with which the Loggetta is crowded. + +Crossing the ample space between this elegant edifice and the ducal +palace, I passed through a labyrinth of pillars and entered the +principal court, of which nothing but the great outline was visible +at so late an hour. Two reservoirs of bronze, rich with sculptured +foliage, diversify the area. In front a magnificent flight of steps +presents itself, by which the senators ascend through vast and solemn +corridors, which lead to the interior of the edifice. The colossal +statues of Mars and Neptune guard the entrance, and have given the +appellation of scala dei geganti to the steps below, which I mounted +not without respect; and, leaning against the balustrades, formed +like the rest of the building of the rarest marbles, adored the +tutelary divinities. + +My devotions were shortly interrupted by one of the sbirri, or +officers of police, who take their stands after sunset before the +avenues of the palace, and who told me the gates were upon the point +of being closed. So, hurrying down the steps, I left half my vows +unpaid and a million of delicate sculptures unexplored; for every +pilaster, every frieze, every entablature, is incrusted with +porphyry, verde antique, or some other curious marble, carved into as +many grotesque wreaths and mouldings as we admire in the loggios of +Raffaello. The various portals, the strange projections, the length +of cloisters; in short, the noble irregularity of these imperial +piles, delighted me beyond idea; and I was sorry to be forced to +abandon them so soon, especially as the twilight, which bats and owls +love not better than I do, enlarged every portico, lengthened every +colonnade, and increased the dimensions of the whole, just as +imagination desired. This faculty would have had full scope had I +but remained an hour longer. The moon would then have gleamed upon +the gigantic forms of Mars and Neptune, and discovered the statues of +ancient heroes emerging from the gloom of their niches. + +Such an interesting assemblage of objects, such regal scenery, with +the reflection that half their ornaments once contributed to the +decoration of Athens, transported me beyond myself. The sbirri +thought me distracted. True enough, I was stalking proudly about +like an actor in an ancient Grecian tragedy, lifting up his hands to +the consecrated fanes and images around, expecting the reply of his +attendant chorus, and declaiming the first verses of OEdipus +Tyrannus. + +These fits of enthusiasm were hardly subsided, when I issued from the +gates of the palace into the great square, which received a faint +gleam from its casinos and palaces, just beginning to be lighted up, +and become the resort of pleasure and dissipation. Numbers were +walking in parties upon the pavement; some sought the shade of the +porticos with their favourites; others were earnestly engaged in +conversation, and filled the gay illuminated apartments, where they +resorted to drink coffee and sorbet, with laughter and merriment. A +thoughtless giddy transport prevailed; for, at this hour, anything +like restraint seems perfectly out of the question; and however +solemn a magistrate or senator may appear in the day, at night he +lays up wig and robe and gravity to sleep together, runs intriguing +about in his gondola, takes the reigning sultana under his arm, and +so rambles half over the town, which grows gayer and gayer as the day +declines. + +Many of the noble Venetians have a little suite of apartments in some +out-of-the-way corner, near the grand piazza, of which their families +are totally ignorant. To these they skulk in the dusk, and revel +undisturbed with the companions of their pleasures. Jealousy itself +cannot discover the alleys, the winding passages, the unsuspected +doors, by which these retreats are accessible. Many an unhappy +lover, whose mistress disappears on a sudden with some fortunate +rival, has searched for her haunts in vain. The gondoliers +themselves, though the prime managers of intrigue, are scarce ever +acquainted with these interior cabinets. When a gallant has a mind +to pursue his adventures with mystery, he rows to the piazza, orders +his bark to wait, meets his goddess in the crowd, and vanishes from +all beholders. Surely, Venice is the city in the universe best +calculated for giving scope to the observations of a devil upon two +sticks. What a variety of lurking-places would one stroke of his +crutch uncover! + +Whilst the higher ranks were solacing themselves in their casinos, +the rabble were gathered in knots round the strollers and +mountebanks, singing and scaramouching in the middle of the square. +I observed a great number of Orientals amongst the crowd, and heard +Turkish and Arabic muttering in every corner. There the Sclavonian +dialect predominated; there some Grecian jargon, almost +unintelligible. Had St. Mark's church been the wondrous tower, and +its piazza the chief square, of the city of Babylon, there could +scarcely have been a greater confusion of languages. + +The novelty of the scene afforded me no small share of amusement, and +I wandered about from group to group, and from one strange exotic to +another, asking and being asked innumerable ridiculous questions, and +settling the politics of London and Constantinople, almost in the +same breath. This instant, I found myself in a circle of grave +Armenian priests and jewellers; the next amongst Greeks and +Dalmatians, who accosted me with the smoothest compliments, and gave +proof that their reputation for pliability and address was not ill- +founded. + +I was entering into a grand harum-scarum discourse with some Russian +Counts or Princes, or whatever you please, just landed with dwarfs, +and footmen, and governors, and staring, like me, about them, when +Mad. de R. arrived, to whom I had the happiness of being recommended. +She very obligingly presented me to some of the most distinguished of +the Venetian families at their great casino, which looks into the +piazza, and consists of five or six rooms, fitted up in a gay flimsy +taste, neither rich nor elegant, where were a great many lights, and +a great many ladies negligently dressed, their hair falling very +freely about them, and innumerable adventures written in their eyes. +The gentlemen were lolling upon the sofas or lounging about the +apartments. + +The whole assembly seemed upon the verge of gaping, till coffee was +carried round. This magic beverage diffused a temporary animation; +and, for a moment or two, conversation moved on with a degree of +pleasing extravagance; but the flash was soon dissipated, and nothing +remained save cards and stupidity. + +In the intervals of shuffling and dealing, some talked over the +affairs of the grand council with less reserve than I expected; and +two or three of them asked some feeble questions about the late +tumults in London: as much, however, through indolence and +forgetfulness, I should conjecture, as from any political motive, for +I don't believe all those wise stories, which some travellers have +propagated, of Venetian subtlety and profound silence. They might +have reigned during the dark periods of the republic, but at this +moment the veil is rent in fifty places; and without any wonderful +penetration, the debates of the senate are discoverable. There +doubtless was a time when, society being greatly divided, and little +communication subsisting among the nobles, secrets were invariably +kept; but since the establishment of casinos, which the ladies rule, +where chit-chat and tittle-tattle are for ever going forwards, who +can preserve a rigorous taciturnity upon any subject in the universe? +It was one o'clock before all the company were assembled, and I left +them at three, still dreaming over their coffee and card-tables. +Trieze is their favourite game: uno, due, tre, quatro, cinque, +fante, cavallo are eternally repeated; the apartments echoed no other +sound. + +No lively people could endure such monotony; yet I have been told the +Venetians are remarkably spirited, and so eager in the pursuit of +amusement as hardly to allow themselves any sleep. Some, for +instance, after declaiming in the Senate, walking an hour in the +square, and fidgeting about from one casino to another till morning +dawns, will get into a gondola, row across the Lagunes, take the post +to Mestre or Fusina, and jumble over craggy pavements to Treviso, +breakfast in haste, and rattle back again as if the devil were +charioteer: by eleven the party is restored to Venice, resumes robe +and periwig, and goes to council. + +This may be very true, and yet I will never cite the Venetians as +examples of vivacity. Their nerves, unstrung by disease and the +consequences of early debaucheries, impede all lively flow of spirits +in its course, and permit at best but a few moments of a false and +feverish activity. The approaches of rest, forced back by an +immoderate use of coffee, render them, too, weak and listless, and +the facility of being wafted from place to place in a gondola, adds +not a little to their indolence. In short, I can scarcely regard +their Eastern neighbours in a more lazy light; and am apt to imagine +that instead of slumbering less than other people, they pass their +lives in one perpetual doze. + +August 4th.--The heats were so excessive in the night, that I thought +myself several times on the point of suffocation, tossed about like a +wounded fish, and dreamt of the devil and Senegal. Towards sunrise, +a faint breeze restored me to life and reason. I slumbered till late +in the day, and the moment I was fairly awake, ordered my gondolier +to row out to the main ocean, that I might plunge into its waves, and +hear and see nothing but waters around me. + +We shot off, wound amongst a number of sheds, shops, churches, +casinos, and palaces, growing immediately out of the canals, without +any apparent foundation. No quay, no terrace, not even a slab is to +be seen before the doors; one step brings you from the hall into the +bark, and the vestibules of the stateliest structures lie open to the +waters, and level with them. I observed several, as I glided along, +supported by rows of well-proportioned pillars, adorned with terms +and vases, beyond which the eye generally discovers a grand court, +and sometimes a garden. + +In about half an hour, we had left the thickest cluster of isles +behind, and, coasting the Place of St. Mark opposite to San Giorgio +Maggiore, whose elegant frontispiece was painted on the calm waters, +launched into the blue expanse of sea, from which rise the Chartreuse +and two or three other woody islands. I hailed the spot where I had +passed such a happy visionary evening, and nodded to my friends the +pines. + +A few minutes more brought me to a dreary, sun-burnt shore, stalked +over by a few Sclavonian soldiers, who inhabit a castle hard by, go +regularly to an ugly unfinished church, and from thence, it is to be +hoped, to paradise; as the air of their barracks is abominable, and +kills them like blasted sheep. + +Forlorn as this island appeared to me, I was told it was the scene of +the Doge's pageantry at the feast of the Ascension; and the very spot +to which he sails in the Bucentaur, previously to wedding the sea. +You have heard enough, and if ever you looked into a show-box, seen +full sufficient of this gaudy spectacle, without my enlarging upon +the topic. I shall only say, that I was obliged to pursue, partly, +the same road as the nuptial procession, in order to reach the beach, +and was broiled and dazzled accordingly. + +At last, after traversing some desert hillocks, all of a hop with +toads and locusts (amongst which English heretics have the honour of +being interred), I passed under an arch, and suddenly the boundless +plains of ocean opened to my view. I ran to the smooth sands, +extending on both sides out of sight, cast off my clothes, and dashed +into the waves, which were coursing one another with a gentle motion, +and breaking lightly on the shores. The tide rolled over me as I lay +floating about, buoyed up by the water, and carried me wheresoever it +listed. It might have borne me far out into the main, and exposed me +to a thousand perils, before I had been aware, so totally was I +abandoned to the illusion of the moment. My ears were filled with +murmuring undecided sounds; my limbs, stretched languidly on the +surge, rose or sunk just as it swelled or subsided. In this passive, +senseless state I remained, till the sun cast a less intolerable +light, and the fishing vessels, lying out in the bay at a great +distance, spread their sails and were coming home. + +Hastening back over the desert of locusts, I threw myself into the +gondola; and, no wind or wave opposing, was soon wafted across to +those venerable columns, so conspicuous in the Place of St. Mark. +Directing my course immediately to the ducal palace, I entered the +grand court, ascending the Giant's stairs, and examined at my leisure +its bas-reliefs. Then, taking the first guide that presented +himself, I was shown along several cloisters and corridors, sustained +by innumerable pillars, into the state apartments, which Tintoret and +Paolo Veronese have covered with the triumphs of their country. + +A swarm of lawyers filled the Sala del Maggior Consiglio, and one of +the first advocates in the republic was pleading with all his might, +before a solemn row of senators. The eyes and ears of the assembly +seemed equally affected. Clouds of powder and volleys of execrations +issuing every instant from the disputants, I got out of their way; +and was led from hall to hall, and from picture to picture, with +exemplary resignation. To be sure, I was heartily tired, but behaved +with decency, having never once expressed how much I wished the +chefs-d'oeuvre I had been contemplating, less smoky and numerous. + +At last, I reached once more the colonnades at the entrance, and +caught the sea-breeze in the open porticos which front San Giorgio +Maggiore. The walls are covered in most places with grim visages +sculptured in marble, whose mouths gape for accusations, and swallow +every lie that malice and revenge can dictate. I wished for a few +ears of the same kind, dispersed about the Doge's residence, to which +one might apply one's own, and catch some account of the mysteries +within; some little dialogue between the Three Inquisitors, or debate +in the Council of Ten. + +This is the tribunal which holds the wealthy nobility in continual +awe; before which they appear with trembling and terror: and whose +summons they dare not disobey. Sometimes, by way of clemency, it +condemns its victims to perpetual imprisonment in close, stifling +cells, between the leads and beams of the palace; or, unwilling to +spill the blood of a fellow-citizen, generously sinks them into +dungeons, deep under the canals which wash its foundations; so that, +above and below, its majesty is contaminated by the abodes of +punishment. What other sovereign could endure the idea of having his +immediate residence polluted with tears? or revel in his halls, +conscious that many of his species were consuming their hours in +lamentations above his head, and that but a few beams separated him +from the scene of their tortures? How ever gaily disposed, could one +dance with pleasure on a pavement, beneath which lie damp and gloomy +caverns, whose inhabitants waste away by painful degrees, and feel +themselves whole years a-dying? Impressed by these terrible ideas, I +could not regard the palace without horror, and wished for the +strength of a thousand antediluvians, to level it with the sea, lay +open the secret recesses of punishment, and admit free gales and +sunshine into every den. + +When I had thus vented my indignation, I repaired to the statue of +Neptune and invoked it to second my enterprise. Once upon a time no +deity had a freer hand at razing cities. His execution was renowned +throughout all antiquity, and the proudest monarchs deprecated the +wrath of [Greek text which cannot be reproduced]. But, like the +other mighty ones of ancient days, his reign is past and his trident +disregarded. Formerly any wild spirit found favour in the eyes of +fortune, and was led along the career of glory to the deliverance of +captives and the extirpation of monsters; but, in our degenerate +times, this easy road to fame is no longer open, and the means of +producing such signal events perplexed and difficult. + +Abandoning, therefore, the sad tenants of the Piombi to their fate, I +left the courts, and stepping into my bark, was rowed down a canal +over which the lofty walls of the palace cast a tremendous shade. +Beneath these fatal waters the dungeons I have also been speaking of +are situated. There the wretches lie marking the sound of the oars, +and counting the free passage of every gondola. Above, a marble +bridge, of bold majestic architecture, joins the highest part of the +prisons to the secret galleries of the palace; from whence criminals +are conducted over the arch to a cruel and mysterious death. I +shuddered whilst passing below; and believe it is not without cause, +this structure is named PONTE DEl SOSPIRI. Horrors and dismal +prospects haunted my fancy upon my return. I could not dine in +peace, so strongly was my imagination affected; but snatching my +pencil, I drew chasms and subterraneous hollows, the domain of fear +and torture, with chains, racks, wheels, and dreadful engines, in the +style of Piranesi. About sunset I went and refreshed myself with the +cool air and cheerful scenery of the Fondamenti nuovi, a vast quay or +terrace of white marble, which commands the whole series of isles, +from San Michele's to Torcello, + + +"That rise and glitter o'er the ambient tide." + + +Nothing can be more picturesque than the groups of towers and cupolas +which they present, mixed with flat roofs and low buildings, and now +and then a pine or cypress. Afar off, a little woody isle, called Il +Deserto, swells from the ocean and diversifies its expanse. + +When I had spent a delightful half-hour in viewing the distant isles, +M. de. B. accompanied me to the Mendicanti, one of the four +conservatorios, which give the best musical education conceivable to +near one hundred young women. You may imagine how admirably those of +the Mendicanti in particular are taught, since their establishment is +under Bertoni's direction, who breathes around him the very soul of +grace and harmony. The chapel in which we sat to hear the oratorio +was dark and solemn; a screen of lofty pillars, formed of black +marble and highly polished, excluded the glow of the western sky, and +reflected the lamps which burn perpetually before the altar. Every +tribune was thronged with people, whose profound silence showed them +worthy auditors of Bertoni's compositions. Here were no cackling old +women, or groaning Methodists, such as infest our English churches, +and scare one's ears with hoarse coughs accompanied by the naso +obligato. All were still and attentive, imbibing the plaintive notes +of the voices with eagerness; and scarce a countenance but seemed +deeply affected with David's sorrows, the subject of the performance. +I sat retired in a solitary tribune, and felt them as my own. Night +came on before the last chorus was sung, and I still seem to hear its +sacred melody. + +August 18th.--It rains; the air is refreshed and I have courage to +resume my pen, which the sultry weather had forced to lie dormant so +long. I like this odd town of Venice, and find every day some new +amusement in rambling about its innumerable canals and alleys. +Sometimes I go and pry about the great church of Saint Mark, and +examine the variety of marbles and mazes of delicate sculpture with +which it is covered. The cupola, glittering with gold, mosaic, and +paintings of half the wonders in the Apocalypse, never fails +transporting me to the period of the Eastern empire. I think myself +in Constantinople, and expect Michael Paleologus with all his train. +One circumstance alone prevents my observing half the treasures of +the place, and holds down my fancy, just springing into the air: I +mean the vile stench which exhales from every recess and corner of +the edifice, and which all the altars cannot subdue. + +When oppressed by this noxious atmosphere, I run up the Campanile in +the piazza, and seating myself amongst the pillars of the gallery, +breathe the fresh gales which blow from the Adriatic; survey at my +leisure all Venice beneath me, with its azure sea, white sails, and +long tracts of islands shining in the sun. Having thus laid in a +provision of wholesome breezes, I brave the vapours of the canals, +and venture into the most curious and murky quarters of the city, in +search of Turks and Infidels, that I may ask as many questions as I +please about Damascus and Suristan, those happy countries which +nature has covered with roses. + +Asiatics find Venice very much to their liking, and all those I +conversed with allowed its customs and style of living had a good +deal of conformity to their own. The eternal lounging in coffee- +houses and sipping of sorbets, agrees perfectly well with the +inhabitants of the Ottoman empire, who stalk about here in their +proper dresses, and smoke their own exotic pipes, without being +stared and wondered at, as in most other European capitals. Some few +of these Orientals are communicative and enlightened; but, generally +speaking, they know nothing beyond the rule of three, and the +commonest transactions of mercantile affairs. + +The Greeks are by far a more lively generation, still retaining their +propensity to works of genius and imagination. Metastasio has been +lately translated into their modern jargon, and some obliging papa or +other has had the patience to put the long-winded romance of Clelia +into a Grecian dress. I saw two or three of these volumes exposed on +a stall, under the grand arcades of the public library, as I went one +day to admire the antiques in its vestibules. + +Whilst I was intent upon my occupation, a little door, I never should +have suspected, flew open, and out popped Monsieur de V., from a +place where nothing, I believe, but broomsticks and certain other +utensils were ever before deposited. This gentleman, the most active +investigator of Homer since the days of the good bishop of +Thessalonica, bespatters you with more learning in a minute than +others communicate in half a year; quotes Arabic, Greek, Hebrew, +Syriac, etc., with a formidable fluency; and drove me from one end of +the room to the other with all the thunder of erudition. Syllables +fell thicker than hail, and in an instant I found myself so weighed +down and covered, that I prayed, for mercy's sake, to be introduced, +by way of respite, to a Laplander whom he leads about as a curiosity; +a poor, harmless, good sort of a soul, calm and indifferent, who has +acquired the words of several Oriental languages to perfection: +ideas he has, in none. + +We went together to view a collection of medals in one of the +Gradanigo palaces, and two or three inestimable volumes, filled with +paintings that represent the dress of the ancient Venetians; so that +I had an opportunity of observing to perfection all the Lapland +nothingness of my companion. What a perfect void! Cold and silent +as the polar regions, not one passion ever throbbed in his bosom; not +one bright ray of fancy ever glittered in his mind; without love or +anger, pleasure or pain, his days fleet smoothly along: all things +considered, I must confess I envied such comfortable apathy. + +After having passed a peaceful hour in dreaming over the medals and +rarities, M. de V. was for conducting me to the Armenian convent, but +I begged to be excused, and went to S. Giovanni e Paolo's, a church +ever celebrated in the annals of painting, since it contains that +masterpiece of Titian, "The Martyrdom of St. Peter." It being a +festival, the huge Gothic pillars were covered with red damask, and +the shrines of saints and worthies glimmered with tapers. The dim +chapels on each side the nave received a feeble light, and discovered +the tombs of ancient Doges, and the equestrian statues of many a +doughty General. I admired them all, but liked nothing so much as a +snug bas-relief I found out in a corner, which represents St. Mark +and some other good souls a-prosing, whilst his lion and the old +serpent squabble and scratch in the foreground of the sculpture, like +cat and dog by the fireside. After dinner, when the shadows of domes +and palaces began lengthening across the waves, I rowed out + + +"On the clear hyaline, the glassy sea," + + +to observe the last sunbeams fade on the tufted gardens of the +Giudecca, and to contemplate the distant Euganean hills, once the +happiest region of Italy; where wandering nations enjoyed the +simplicity of a pastoral life, long before the arrival of Antenor. +In those ancient times, deep forests and extensive pastures covered +the shores {170a} of the Adriatic, and innumerable flocks hung on the +brow of the mountains. This golden period ended upon the incursion +of the Trojans and Heneti; who, led by Antenor, drove away the +unfortunate savages, and possessed themselves of their habitations. +{170b} The form of the hillocks is varied and picturesque, and the +sun, sinking behind them, suffuses their summits with tints of the +brightest orange. Scarce one evening have I failed to remark the +changeful scenery of the clouds, and to fill my mind with +recollections of primeval days and happier ages. Night generally +surprises me in the midst of my reveries; I return, lulled in my +gondola by the murmur of waters, pass about an hour with M. de R., +whose imagination and sensibility almost equal your own; then, retire +to sleep, and dream of the Euganeans. + + + +LETTER IX + + + +August 27th.--I am just returned from visiting the isles of Burano, +Torcello, and Mazorbo, distant about five miles from Venice. To +these amphibious spots the Romans, inhabitants of eastern Lombardy, +fled from the ravine of Attila; and, if we may believe Cassiodorus, +there was a time when they presented a beautiful appearance. Beyond +them, on the coast of the Lagunes, rose the once populous city of +Altina, with its six stately gates, which Dandolo mentions. {170c} +Its neighbourhood was scattered with innumerable villas and temples, +composing altogether a prospect which Martial compares to Baiae: + + +"AEmula Baianis Altini littora villis." + + +But this agreeable scene, like so many others, is passed entirely +away, and has left nothing, except heaps of stones and misshapen +fragments, to vouch for its former magnificence. Two of the islands, +Costanziaco and Amiano, that are imagined to have contained the +bowers and gardens of the Altinatians, have sunk beneath the waters; +those which remain are scarcely worthy to rise above their surface. + +Though I was persuaded little was left to be seen above ground, I +could not deny myself the imaginary pleasure of treading a corner of +the earth once so adorned and cultivated; and of walking over the +roofs, perhaps, of concealed halls and undiscovered palaces. M. de +R., to whom I communicated my ideas, entered at once into the scheme; +hiring therefore a peiotte we took some provisions and music (to us +equally necessaries of life), and launched into the canal, between +St. Michael and Murano. + +The waves coursed each other with violence, and dark clouds hung over +the grand sweep of northern mountains, whilst the west smiled with +azure and bright sunshine. Thunder rolled awfully at a distance, and +those white and greyish birds, the harbingers of storms, flitted +frequently before our bark. For some moments we were in doubt +whether to proceed; but as we advanced by a little dome in the Isle +of St. Michael, shaped like an ancient temple, the sky cleared, and +the ocean subsiding by degrees, soon presented a tranquil expanse, +across which we were smoothly wafted. Our instruments played several +delightful airs, that called forth the inhabitants of every island, +and held them silent, as if spell-bound, on the edge of their quays +and terraces, till we were out of hearing. + +Leaving Murano far behind, Venice and its world of turrets began to +sink on the horizon, and the low desert isles beyond Mazorbo to lie +stretched out before us. Now we beheld vast wastes of {171} purple +flowers, and could distinguish the low hum of the insects which hover +above them; such was the silence of the place. Coasting these +solitary fields, we wound amongst several serpentine canals, bordered +by gardens of figs and pomegranates, with neat Indian-looking +inclosures of cane and reed: an aromatic plant clothes the margin of +the waters, which the people justly dignify with the title of marine +incense. It proved very serviceable in subduing a musky odour, which +attacked us the moment we landed, and which proceeds from serpents +that lurk in the hedges. These animals, say the gondoliers, defend +immense treasures which lie buried under the ruins. Woe to those who +attempt invading them, or prying too cautiously about! + +Not choosing to be devoured, we left many a mount of fragments +unnoticed, and made the best of our way to a little green, free from +weeds or adders, bounded on one side by a miserable shed, decorated +with the name of the Podesta's residence, and on the other by a +circular church. Some remains of tolerable antique sculpture are +enchased in the walls; and the dome, supported by pillars of a smooth +Grecian marble, though uncouth and ill-proportioned, impresses a sort +of veneration, and transports the fancy to the twilight glimmering +period when it was raised. + +Having surveyed what little was visible, and given as much career to +our imaginations as the scene inspired, we walked over a soil +composed of crumbling bricks and cement to the cathedral; whose +arches, turned on the ancient Roman principle, convinced us that it +dates as high as the sixth or seventh century. + +Nothing can be well more fantastic than the ornaments of this +structure, formed from the ruins of the Pagan temples of Altina, and +incrusted with a gilt mosaic, like that which covers our Edward the +Confessor's tomb. The pavement, composed of various precious +marbles, is richer and more beautiful than one could have expected, +in a place where every other object savours of the grossest +barbarism. At the farther end, beyond the altar, appears a +semicircular niche, with seats like the gradines of a diminutive +amphitheatre; above rise the quaint forms of the apostles, in red, +blue, green, and black mosaic, and in the midst of the goodly group a +sort of marble chair, cool and penitential enough, where St. Lorenzo +Giustiniani sat to hold a provincial council, the Lord knows how long +ago! The fount for holy water stands by the principal entrance, +fronting this curious recess, and seems to have belonged to some +place of Gentile worship. The figures of horned imps cling round its +sides, more devilish, more Egyptian, than any I ever beheld. The +dragons on old china are not more whimsical: I longed to have it +filled with bats' blood, and to have sent it by way of present to the +sabbath; I can assure you it would have done honour to their +witcheries. The sculpture is not the most delicate, but I cannot say +a great deal about it, as but little light reaches the spot where it +is fixed. Indeed, the whole church is far from luminous, its windows +being narrow and near the roof, with shutters composed of blocks of +marble, which nothing but the last whirlwind, one should think, could +move from their hinges. + +By the time we had examined every nook and corner of this singular +edifice, and caught perhaps some small portion of sanctity by sitting +in San Lorenzo's chair, dinner was prepared in a neighbouring +convent, and the nuns, allured by the sound of our flutes and oboes, +peeped out of their cells and showed themselves by dozens at the +grate. Some few agreeable faces and interesting eyes enlivened the +dark sisterhood; all seemed to catch a gleam of pleasure from the +music; two or three of them, probably the last immured, let fall a +tear, and suffered the recollection of the world and its profane joys +to interrupt for a moment their sacred tranquillity. + +We stayed till the sun was low, and the breezes blew cool from the +ocean, on purpose that they might listen as long as possible to a +harmony which seemed to issue, as the old abbess expressed herself, +from the gates of paradise ajar. A thousand benedictions consecrated +our departure; twilight came on just as we entered the bark and rowed +out upon the waves, agitated by a fresh gale, but fearing nothing +under the protection of St. Margherita, whose good wishes our music +had secured. + +In two hours we were safely landed at the Fondamenti nuovi, and went +immediately to the Mendicanti, where they were performing the +oratorio of Sisera. The composer, a young man, had displayed great +fire and originality in this performance; and a knowledge of +character seldom found in the most celebrated masters. The +supplication of the thirsty chieftain, and Jael's insinuating arts +and pious treachery, are admirably expressed; but the agitation and +bodily slumbers which precede his death, are imagined in the highest +strain of genius. The terror and agony of his dreams made me start, +more than once, from my seat; and all the horrors of his +assassination seemed full before me, so fatal was the sound of the +instrument, so just the conduct of the harmony. + +Too much applause cannot be given to the Marchetti, who sang the part +of Sisera, and seconded the composer's ideas by the most feeling and +spirited execution. There are few things I shall regret more at +Venice, than this conservatorio. Whenever I am musically given, I +fly to it, and hear the most striking finales in Bertoni's and +Anfosse's operas, as long and often as I please. + +The sight of the orchestra still makes me smile. You know, I +suppose, it is entirely of the female gender, and that nothing is +more common than to see a delicate white hand journeying across an +enormous double bass, or a pair of roseate cheeks puffing, with all +their efforts, at a French horn. Some that are grown old and +Amazonian, who have abandoned their fiddles and their lovers, take +vigorously to the kettledrum; and one poor limping lady, who had been +crossed in love, now makes an admirable figure on the bassoon. + +Good-night! I am quite exhausted with composing a chorus for these +same Amazonians. The poetry I send you, which seems to be some of +the most picturesque and nervous an Italian ever produced. The music +takes up too much room to travel at present. One day or other, +perhaps, we may hear it in some dark grove, when the moon is eclipsed +and nature in alarm. + +This is not the last letter you would receive from Venice, was I not +hurrying to Lucca, where Pacchierotti sings next week, in the opera +of Quinto Fabio, of all operas the most worthy to excuse such a +musical fanaticism. Adieu. + + + +LETTER X + + + +September 4th.--I was sorry to leave Venice, and regretted my +peaceful excursions upon the Adriatic, when the Euganean hills were +lost in a golden haze, and the sun cast his departing gleam across +the waters. No bright rays illuminated my departure, but the +coolness and perfume of the air made some amends for their absence. + +About an hour's rowing from the isle of Saint Giorgio in Alga, +brought us to the shores of Fusina, right opposite the opening where +the Brenta mixes with the sea. This river flows calmly between banks +of verdure, crowned by poplars, with vines twining round every stalk, +and depending from tree to tree in beautiful festoons. Beds of mint +and flowers clothe the brink of the stream, except where a tall +growth of reeds and osiers lift themselves to the breezes. I heard +their whispers as we glided along; and had I been alone might have +told you what they said to me; but such aerial oracles must be +approached in solitude. The morning continued to lower as we +advanced; scarce a wind ventured to breathe; all was still and placid +as the surface of the Brenta. No sound struck my ears except the +bargemen hallooing to open the sluices, and deepen the water. + +As yet I had not perceived an habitation; no other objects than green +inclosures and fields of Turkish corn, shaded with vines and poplars, +met my eyes wherever I turned them. + +Our navigation, the tranquil streams and cultivated banks, in short +the whole landscape, had a sort of Chinese cast, which led me into +Quang-Si and Quang-Tong. The variety of canes, reeds, and blooming +rushes, shooting from the slopes, confirmed my fancies, and when I +beheld the yellow nenupha expanding its broad leaves to the current, +I thought of the Tao-Se, and venerated one of the chief ingredients +in their beverage of immortality. Landing where this magic +vegetation appeared most luxuriant, I cropped the flowers; but +searched in vain for the kernels, which, according to the doctrine of +the Bonzes, produce such wonderful effects. Though I was deceived in +this pursuit, I gained, however, in another. The bank upon which I +had sprung presented a continual walk of level turf, surrounded by +vines, concealing the trees which supported them, and forming the +most delightful bowers. Under these garlands I passed, and gathered +the ripe clusters which dangled around, convinced that Noah had +discovered a far superior beverage to that of the Tao-Se. Whilst I +was thus agreeably employed, it began to rain, and the earth to +exhale a fresh, reviving odour, highly grateful to one who had been +so long confined to walls and waters. After breathing nothing but +the essence of the canals and the flavours of the Rialto, after the +jingling of bells and brawls of the gondoliers, imagine how agreeable +it was to scent the perfume of clover, to tread a springing herbage, +and listen in silence to the showers pattering amongst the leaves. I +staid so long amidst the vines, that it grew late before we rowed by +the Mira, a village of palaces, whose courts and gardens, as +magnificent as statues, terraces, and vases can make them, compose a +grand, though far from a rural prospect. + +Not being greatly delighted with such scenery, we stayed no longer +than our dinner required, and reached the Dolo an hour before sunset. +Passing the great sluices, whose gates opened with a thundering +noise, we continued our course along the peaceful Brenta, winding its +broad full stream through impenetrable copses, surmounted by tall +waving poplars. Day was about to close when we reached Fiesso; and +it being a misty evening, I could scarcely distinguish the pompous +facade of the Pisani palace. That where we supped looks upon a broad +mass of foliage, which I contemplated with pleasure as it sank in the +dusk. + +We walked a long while under a pavilion stretched before the +entrance, breathing the freshness of the wood after the shower, and +hearing the drops trickle down the awning above our heads. The +Galuzzi sang some of her father Ferandini's compositions, with a +fire, an energy, an expression, that one moment raised me to a pitch +of heroism, and the next dissolved me in tears. Her cheek was +flushed with inspiration, her eyes glistened; the whole tone of her +countenance was like that of a person rapt and inspired. I forgot +both time and place whilst she was breathing forth such celestial +harmony. The night stole imperceptibly away, and morning dawned +before I awoke from my trance. I don't recollect ever to have passed +an evening, which every circumstance conspired so much to improve. +In general, my musical pleasures suffer terrible abatements from the +phlegm and stupidity of my neighbourhood, but here every one seemed +to catch the flame, and to listen with reciprocal delight. The C--- +threw quick around her the glancing fires of genius: and, what with +the song of the Galuzzi, and those intellectual meteors, I scarcely +knew to what element I was transported; and doubted for several +moments whether I had not fallen into a celestial dream. I loathed +the light of the morning star, which summoned me to depart; and, if I +may express myself so poetically, + + +"Cast many a longing, ling'ring look behind." + + + +LETTER XI + + + +September 5th.--The glow and splendour of the rising sun, for once in +my life, drew little of my attention. I was too deeply plunged in my +reveries, to notice the landscape which lay before me; and the walls +of Padua presented themselves some time ere I was aware. At any +other moment, how sensibly should I have been affected with their +appearance! how many ideas of Antenor and his Trojans, would have +thronged into my memory! but now I regarded the scene with +indifference, and passed many a palace, and many a woody garden, with +my eyes riveted to the ground. The first object that appeared, upon +lifting them up, was a confused pile of spires and cupolas, dedicated +to blessed St. Anthony, who betook himself to the conversion of fish, +after the heretics would lend no ear to his discourses. + +You are too well apprised of the veneration I have always entertained +for this ingenious preacher, to doubt that I immediately repaired to +his shrine and offered up my little orisons before it. Mine was a +disturbed spirit, and required all the balm of St. Anthony's kindness +to appease it. Perhaps you will say I had better gone to bed, and +applied myself to my sleepy friend, the pagan divinity. 'Tis +probable that you are in the right; but I could not retire to rest +without venting some portion of effervescence in sighs and +supplications. The nave was filled with decrepit women and feeble +children, kneeling by baskets of vegetables and other provisions; +which, by good Anthony's interposition, they hoped to sell +advantageously in the course of the day. Beyond these, nearer the +choir, and in a gloomier part of the edifice, knelt a row of rueful +penitents, smiting their breasts, and lifting their eyes to heaven. +Further on, in front of the dark recess, where the sacred relics are +deposited, a few desperate, melancholy sinners lay prostrate. + +To these I joined myself, and fell down on the steps before the +shrine. The sunbeams had not yet penetrated into this religious +quarter; and the only light it received proceeded from the golden +lamps, which hang in clusters round the sanctuary. A lofty altar, +decked with superstitious prodigality, conceals the holy pile from +profane glances. Those who are profoundly touched with its sanctity +may approach, and walking round, look through the crevices of the +tomb, and rub their noses against the identical bones of St. Anthony, +which, it is observed, exude a balsamic odour. But supposing a +traveller ever so heretical, I would advise him by no means to +neglect this pilgrimage; since every part of the recess he visits is +decorated with the most exquisite sculptures. Sansovino and the best +artists have vied with each other in carving the alto relievos of the +arcade, which, for design and execution, would do honour to the +sculptors of antiquity. + +Having observed these objects with much less exactness than they +merited, and acted perhaps too capital a part amongst the devotees, I +hastened to the inn, luckily hard by, and one of the best I am +acquainted with. Here I soon fell asleep in defiance of sunshine. +'Tis true my slumbers were not a little agitated. St. Anthony had +been deaf to my prayer, and I still found myself a frail, infatuated +mortal. + +At five I got up; we dined, and afterwards, scarcely knowing, nor +much caring, what became of us, we strolled to the great hall of the +town; an enormous edifice, as large as that of Westminster, but free +from stalls, or shops, or nests of litigation. The roof, one +spacious vault of brown timber, casts a solemn gloom, which was still +increased by the lateness of the hour, and not diminished by the wan +light, admitted through the windows of pale blue glass. The size and +shape of this colossal chamber, the coving of the roof, with beams +like perches for the feathered race, stretching across it, and, above +all, the watery gleams that glanced through the casements, possessed +my fancy with ideas of Noah's ark, and almost persuaded me I beheld +that extraordinary vessel. The representation one sees of it in +Scheutzer's "Physica Sacra" seems to be formed upon this very model, +and for several moments I indulged the chimera of imagining myself +confined within its precincts. How willingly, could I but choose my +companions, would I encounter a deluge, to float whole years instead +of months upon the waves! + +We remained walking to and fro in the ark, till the twilight faded +into total darkness. It was then full time to retire, as the +guardian of the place was by no means formed to divine our diluvian +ideas. + + + +LETTER XII + + + +September 6th.--At Padua, I was too near the last and one of the most +celebrated abodes of Petrarch, to make the omission of a visit +excusable; had I not been in a disposition to render such a +pilgrimage peculiarly pleasing. I set forwards from Padua after +dinner, so as to arrive some time before sunset. Nothing could be +finer than the day; and I had every reason to promise myself a serene +and delicious hour, before the sun might go down. I put the poems of +Petrarch into my pocket; and, as my road lay chiefly through lanes, +planted on either side with mulberries and poplars, from which vines +hung dangling in careless festoons, I found many a bowering shade, +where I sat, at intervals, to indulge my pensive humour over some +ejaculatory sonnet; as the pilgrim, on his journey to Loretto, +reposes here and there, to offer his prayers and meditations to the +Virgin. In little more than an hour and half, I found myself in the +midst of the Euganean hills, and, after winding almost another hour +amongst them, I got, before I was well aware, into the village of +Arqua. Nothing can be more sequestered or obscure than its +situation. It had rather a deserted appearance; several of its +houses being destitute of inhabitants, and crumbling into ruins. Two +or three of them, however, exhibited ancient towers, richly mantled +with ivy, and surrounded with cypress, that retained the air of +having once belonged to persons of consideration. Their present +abandoned state nourished the melancholy idea with which I entered +the village. Could one approach the last retreat of genius, and not +look for some glow of its departed splendour? + + +"Dear to the pensive eye of fond regret, +Is light still beaming from a sun that's set." + + +The residence of Petrarch at Arqua is said to have drawn thither from +Padua the society of its more enlightened citizens. This city, +whilst Petrarch lived in its neighbourhood, was engaged in rebellion +against the Venetians; and Francis de Carrara, the head of it, went +often to Arqua, to consult Petrarch; when he found himself obliged to +sue to Venice for peace. The poet was indeed deputed, upon this +occasion, his ambassador to the state; as being a person whose +character and credit were most likely to appease its wrath. His +success in this embassy might, perhaps, have been some recompense for +an employment he accepted with much regret, as it forced him from his +beloved retirement. In a letter to one of his friends, written about +this period of his life, he says: "I pass the greatest part of the +year in the country, which I have always preferred to cities: I +read; I write; I think: thus, my life and my pleasures are like +those of youth. I take pains to hide myself; but I cannot escape +visits: it is an honour which displeases and wearies me. In my +little house on the Euganean hills, I hope to pass my few remaining +days in tranquillity, and to have always before my eyes my dead, or +my absent, friends." I was musing on these circumstances as I walked +along the village, till a venerable old woman, seated at her door +with her distaff in her hand, observing me, soon guessed the cause of +my excursion; and offered to guide me to Petrarch's house. The +remainder of my way was short, and well amused by my guide's +enthusiastic expressions of veneration for the poet's memory; which, +she assured me, she felt but in common with the other inhabitants of +the village. When we came to the door of the house, we met the +peasant, its present possessor. The old woman, recommending the +stranger and his curiosity to her neighbour's good offices, departed. +I entered immediately, and ran over every room, which the peasant +assured me, in confirmation of what I before learnt from better +authority, were preserved, as nearly as they could be, in the state +Petrarch had left them. The house and premises, having unfortunately +been transmitted from one enthusiast of his name to another, no +tenants have been admitted, but under the strictest prohibition of +making any change in the form of the apartments, or in the memorial +relics belonging to the place: and, to say the truth, everything I +saw in it, save a few articles of the peasant's furniture in the +kitchen, has an authentic appearance. Three of the rooms below +stairs are particularly shown, and they have nothing in them but what +once belonged to the poet. In one, which I think they call his +parlour, is a very antique cupboard; where, it is supposed, he +deposited some precious part of his literary treasure. The ceiling +is painted in a grotesque manner. A niche in the wall contains the +skeleton of his favourite cat, with a Latin epigram beneath, of +Petrarch's composition. It is good enough to deserve being copied; +but the lateness of the hour did not allow me time. A little room, +beyond this, is said to have been his study: the walls of it, from +top to bottom, are scribbled over with sonnets, and poetical eulogies +on Petrarch, ancient and modern: many of which are subscribed by +persons, of distinguished rank and talents, Italians as well as +strangers. Here, too, is the bard's old chair, and on it is +displayed a great deal of heavy, ornamental carpentry; which required +no stretch of faith to be believed the manufacture of the fourteenth +century. You may be sure, I placed myself in it, with much +veneration, and the most resigned assent to Mrs. Dobson's relation: +that Petrarch, sitting in this same chair, was found dead in his +library, with one arm leaning on a book. Who could sit in Petrarch's +chair, void of some effect? I rose not from it without a train of +pensive sentiments and soft impressions; which I ever love to +indulge. I was now led into a larger room, behind that I first saw; +where, it is likely enough, the poet, according to the peasant's +information, received the visits of his friends. Its walls were +adorned with landscapes and pastoral scenes, in such painting as +Petrarch himself might, and is supposed to have executed. Void of +taste and elegance, either in the design or colouring, they bear some +characteristic marks of the age to which they are, with no +improbability, assigned; and, separate from the merit of exhibiting +repeatedly the portraits of Petrarch and Laura, are a valuable sketch +of the rude infancy of the art, where it rose with such hasty vigour +to perfection. Having seen all that was left unchanged in this +consecrated mansion, I passed through a room, said to have been the +bard's bed-room, and stepped into the garden, situated on a green +slope, descending directly from the house. It is now rather an +orchard than a garden; a spot of small extent, and without much else +to recommend it, but that it once was the property of Petrarch. It +is not pretended to have retained the form in which he left it. An +agreeably wild and melancholy kind of view, which it commands over +the Euganean hills, and which I beheld under the calm glow of +approaching sunset, must often, at the same moment, have soothed the +poet's anxious feelings, and hushed his active imagination, as it did +my own, into a delicious repose. Having lingered here till the sun +was sunk beneath the horizon, I was led a little way farther in the +village, to see Petrarch's fountain. Hippocrene itself could not +have been more esteemed by the poet, than this, his gift, by all the +inhabitants of Arqua. The spring is copious, clear, and of excellent +water; I need not say with what relish I drank of it. The last +religious act in my little pilgrimage was a visit to the church-yard; +where I strewed a few flowers, the fairest of the season, on the +poet's tomb; and departed for Padua by the light of the moon. + + + +LETTER XIII + + + +September 7th.--Immediately after breakfast, we went to St. +Justina's, a noble temple, designed by Palladio, and worthy of his +reputation. The dimensions are vast, and the equal distribution of +light and ornament truly admirable. Upon my first entrance, the long +perspective of domes above, and chequered marble below, struck me +with surprise and pleasure. I roved about the spacious aisles for +several minutes, then sat down under the grand cupola, and admired +the beautiful symmetry of the building. + +Both extremities of the cross aisles are terminated by altar and +tombs of very remote antiquity, adorned with uncouth sculptures of +the Evangelists, supported by wreathed columns of alabaster, round +which, to my no small astonishment, four or five gawky fellows were +waddling on their knees, persuaded, it seems, that this strange +devotion would cure the rheumatism, or any other aches with which +they were afflicted. You can have no conception of the ridiculous +attitudes into which they threw themselves; nor the difficulty with +which they squeezed along, between the middle column of the tomb and +those which surrounded it. No criminal in the pillory ever exhibited +a more rueful appearance, no swine ever scrubbed itself more +fervently than these infatuated lubbers. + +I left them hard at work, taking more exercise than had been their +lot for many a day; and, mounting into the organ gallery, listened to +Turini's {182} music with infinite satisfaction. The loud harmonious +tones of the instrument filled the whole edifice; and, being repeated +by the echoes of its lofty domes and arches, produced a wonderful +effect. Turini, aware of this circumstance, adapts his compositions +with great intelligence to the place, and makes his slave, the organ, +send forth the most affecting, long-protracted sounds, which languish +in the air, and are some time a-dying. Nothing can be more original +than his style. Deprived of sight by an unhappy accident, in the +flower of his days, he gave up his entire soul to music, and scarcely +exists but through its medium. + +When we came out of St. Justina's, the azure of the sky and the +softness of the air inclined us to think of some excursion. Where +could I wish to go, but to the place in which I had been so +delighted? Besides, it was proper to make the C. another visit, and +proper to see the Pisani palace, which happily I had before +neglected. All these proprieties considered, M. de R. accompanied me +to Fiesso. + +The sun was just sunk when we arrived; the whole ether in a glow, and +the fragrance of the arched citron alleys delightful. Beneath them I +walked in the cool, till the Galuzzi began once more her enchanting +melody. She sung till the moon tempted the fascinating G---a and +myself to stray on the banks of the Brenta. A profound calm reigned +upon the woods and the waters, and moonlight added serenity to a +scene naturally peaceful. We listened to the faint murmurs of the +leaves, and the distant rural noises, observing the gleams that +quivered on the river, and discovered a mutual delight in +contemplating the same objects. + +We supped late: before the Galuzzi had repeated the airs which had +most affected me, morning began to dawn. + +September 8th.--It was evening, and I was still asleep; not in a +tranquil slumber, but at the mercy of fantastic visions. The want of +sound repose had thrown me into a feverish impatient mood, that was +alone to be subdued by harmony. Scarcely had I snatched some slight +refreshment, before I flew to the great organ at St. Justina's, but +tried, this time, to compose myself in vain. M. de R., finding my +endeavours unsuccessful, proposed, by way of diverting my attention, +that we should set out immediately for one of the Euganean hills +about five or seven miles from Padua, at the foot of which some +antique baths had very lately been discovered. I consented, without +hesitation, little concerned whither I went, or what happened to me, +provided the scene was often shifted. The lanes and enclosures we +passed on our road to the hills, appeared in all the gaiety that +verdure, flowers, and sunshine could give them. But my pleasures +were overcast, and I beheld every object, however cheerful, through a +dusky medium. Deeply engaged in conversation, distance made no +impression; and we beheld the meadows, over which the ruins are +scattered, lie before us, when we still imagined ourselves several +miles away. Had I but enjoyed my former serenity, how agreeably +would such a landscape have affected my imagination! How lightly +should I not have run over the herbage, and viewed the irregular +shrubby hills, diversified with clumps of cypress, verdant spots, and +pastoral cottages, such as Zuccarelli loved to paint! No scene could +be more smiling than this which here presented itself, or answer, in +a fuller degree, the ideas I had formed of Italy. + +Leaving our carriage at the entrance of the mead, we traversed its +flowery surface, and shortly perceived among the grass an oblong +basin, incrusted with pure white marble. Most of the slabs are large +and perfect, apparently brought from Greece, and still retaining +their polished smoothness. The pipes to convey the waters are still +discernible; in short, the whole ground-plan may be easily traced. +Nothing more remains: the pillars and arcades are fallen, and one or +two pedestals alone vouch for their former existence. Near the +principal bath, we remarked the platforms of several circular +apartments, paved with mosaic, in a neat simple taste, far from +inelegant. Weeds have not yet sprung up amongst the crevices; and +the universal freshness of the ruin shows that it has not been long +exposed. + +Theodoric is the prince to whom these structures are attributed; and +Cassiodorus, the prime chronicler of the country, is quoted to +maintain the supposition. My spirit was too much engaged to make any +learned parade, or to dispute upon a subject, which I abandon, with +all its glories, to calmer and less impatient minds. + +Having taken a cursory view of the ruins in the mead, we ascended the +hill which borders upon it, and surveyed a prospect of the same +nature, though in a more lovely and expanded style, than that which I +beheld from Mosolente. Padua crowns the landscape, with its towers +and cupolas rising from a continued grove; and, from the drawings I +have seen, I should conjecture that Damascus presents somewhat of a +similar appearance. + +Taking our eyes off this extensive prospect, we turned them to the +fragments beneath our feet. The walls appear plainly composed of the +opus reticulatum so universal in the environs of Naples. A sort of +terrace, with the bases of columns circling the mount, leads me to +imagine here were formerly arcades and porticos, for enjoying the +view; for on the summit I could trace no vestiges of any considerable +structure, and am therefore inclined to conclude, that nothing more +than a colonnade surrounded the hill, leading perhaps to some slight +fane, or pavilion, for the recreation of the bathers below. + +A profusion of aromatic flowers covered the slopes, and exhaled +additional perfumes, as the sun declined, and the still hour +approached, which was wont to spread over my mind a divine composure, +and to restore the tranquillity I might have lost in the day. But +now it diffused in vain its reviving coolness, and I remained, if +possible, more sad and restless than before. + +To produce such a revolution, divine how I must have been fascinated! +and be not surprised at my repeating all the way that pathetic sonnet +of Petrarch: + + +"O giorno, o ora, o ultimo momento, +O stelle congiurate a 'mpoverirme! +O fido sguardo, or che volei tu dirme, +Partend' io, per non esser mai contento?" + + +September 9th.--You may imagine how I felt when the hour of leaving +Padua drew near. It happened to be a high festival, and mass +celebrated at the grand church of St. Anthony, with more than +ordinary splendour. The music drawing us thither, we found every +chapel twinkling with lights, and the choir filled with a vapour of +incense. Through its medium several cloth of gold figures discovered +themselves, ministering before the altar, and acting their parts with +a sacred pomposity, wonderfully imposing. I attended very little to +their functions, but the plaintive tones of the voices and +instruments, so consonant with my own feelings, melted me into tears, +and gave me, no doubt, the exterior of exalted piety. Guadazni sang +amongst the other musicians, but seemed to be sinking apace into +devotion and obscurity. The ceremony ended, I took leave of M. de R. +with sincere regret, and was driven away to Vicenza. Of my journey I +scarce know any more than that the evening was cold and rainy, that I +shivered and was miserable. + +September 10th.--The morning being overcast, I went, full of the +spirit of AEschylus, to the Olympic Theatre, and vented my evil +temper in reciting some of the most tremendous verses of his furies. +The august front of the scene, and its three grand streets of fanes +and palaces, inspired me with the loftiest sentiments of the Grecian +drama; but the dubious light admitted through windows, scarce visible +between the rows of statues which crown the entablature, sunk me into +fits of gloom and sadness. I mused a long while in the darkest and +most retired recess of the edifice, fancying I had penetrated into a +real and perfect monument of antiquity, which till this moment had +remained undiscovered. It is impossible to conceive a structure more +truly classical, or to point out a single ornament which has not the +best antique authority. I am not in the least surprised that the +citizens of Vicenza enthusiastically gave in to Palladio's plan, and +sacrificed large sums to erect so beautiful a model. When finished, +they procured, at a vast expense, the representation of a Grecian +tragedy, with its chorus and majestic decorations. You can enter +into the rapture of an artist, who sees his fondest vision realized; +and can easily conceive how it was, that Palladio esteemed this +compliment the most flattering reward. After I had given scope to +the fancies which the scene suggested, we set out for Verona. + +The situation is striking and picturesque. A long line of battlement +walls, flanked by venerable towers, mounts the hill in a grand +irregular sweep, and incloses many a woody garden and grove of +slender cypress. Beyond rises an awful assembly of mountains; +opposite to which a fertile plain presents itself, decked with all +the variety of meads and thickets, olive-grounds and vineyards. + +Amongst these our road kept winding till we entered the city gate, +and passed (the post knows how many streets and alleys in the way!) +to the inn, a lofty, handsome-looking building; but so full that we +were obliged to take up with an apartment on its very summit, open to +all the winds, like the magic chamber Apuleius mentions, and +commanding the roofs of half Verona. Here and there a pine shot up +amongst them, and the shady hills, terminating the perspective with +their walls and turrets, formed a romantic scene. + +Placing our table in a balcony, to enjoy the prospect with greater +freedom, we feasted upon fish from the Lago di Garda, and the +delicious fruits of the country,--grapes worthy of Canaan, and +peaches such as Eden itself might have gloried in producing. Thus +did I remain, solacing myself, breathing the cool air, and remarking +the evening tints of the mountains. Neither the paintings of Count +this, nor the antiquities of the Marquis t'other, could tempt me from +my aerial situation; I refused hunting out the famous Paolos +scattered over the town, and sat like the owl in the Georgics, + + +"Solis et occasom servans de culmine summo." + + +Twilight drawing on, I left my haunt, and stealing downstairs, +inquired for a guide to conduct me to the amphitheatre, perhaps the +most entire monument of Roman days. The people of the house, instead +of bringing me a quiet peasant, officiously delivered me up to a +professed antiquary, one of those diligent plausible young men, to +whom, God help me! I have so capital an aversion. This sweet spark +displayed all his little erudition, and flourished away upon cloacas +and vomitoriums with eternal fluency. He was very profound in the +doctrine of conduits, and knew to admiration how the filthiness of +all the amphitheatre was disposed of; but perceiving my inattention, +and having just grace enough to remark that I chose one side of the +street when he preferred the other, and sometimes trotted through +despair in the kennel, he made me a pretty bow, I threw him half-a- +crown, and seeing the ruins before me, traversed a gloomy arcade and +emerged alone into the arena. A smooth turf covers its surface, from +which a spacious row of gradines rises to a majestic elevation. Four +arches, with their simple Doric ornament, alone remain of the grand +circle which once lifted itself above the highest seats of the +amphitheatre; and, had it not been for Gothic violence, this part of +the structure would have equally resisted the ravages of time. +Nothing can be more exact than the preservation of the gradines; not +a block has sunk from its place, and whatever trifling injuries they +may have received have been carefully repaired. The two chief +entrances are rebuilt with solidity and closed by portals, no passage +being permitted through the theatre except at public shows and +representations, sometimes still given in the arena. + +When I paced slowly across it, silence reigned undisturbed amongst +the awful ruins, and nothing moved, save the weeds and grasses which +skirt the walls and tremble with the faintest breeze. + +I liked the idea of being thus shut in on every side by endless +gradines, abandoned to a stillness and solitude I was so peculiarly +disposed to taste. Throwing myself upon the grass in the middle of +the arena, I enjoyed the freedom of my situation; and pursued the +last tracks of light, as they faded behind the solitary arches, which +rose above the rest. Red and fatal were the tints of the western +sky; the wind blew chill and hollow, and something more than common +seemed to issue from the withering herbage on the walls. I started +up, fled through a dark arcade, where water falls drop by drop, and +arrived, panting, in the great square before the ruins. Directing my +steps across it, I reached an ancient castle, once inhabited by the +Scaligeri, sovereigns of Verona. Hard by appeared the ruins of a +triumphal arch, which most antiquarians ascribe to Vitruvius, +enriched with delicate scrolls and flowery ornaments. I could have +passed half-an-hour very agreeably in copying these elegant +sculptures; but night covering them with her shades, I returned home +to the Corso; where the outlines of several palaces, designed by +Michel San Michele, attracted my attention. But it was too dusky to +examine their details. + +September 11th.--Traversing once more the grand piazza, and casting a +last glance upon the amphitheatre, we passed under a lofty arch which +terminates the perspective, and left Verona by a wide, irregular, +picturesque street, commanding, whenever you look back, a striking +scene of towers, cypress, and mountains. + +The country, between this beautiful town and Mantua, presents one +continued grove of dwarfish mulberries, among which start up +innumerable barren hills. Now and then a knot of poplars diversify +their craggy summits, and sometimes a miserable shed. Mantua itself +rises out of a morass formed by the Mincio, whose course, in most +places, is so choked up with reeds as to be scarcely discernible. It +requires a creative imagination to discover any charms in such a +prospect, and a strong prepossession not to be disgusted with the +scene where Virgil was born. For my own part, I approached this +neighbourhood with proper deference, and began to feel the God, but +finding no tufted tree on which I could suspend my lyre, or verdant +bank which invited to repose, I abandoned poetry and entered the city +in despair. + +The beating of drums, and sight of German whiskers, finished what +croaking frogs and stagnant ditches had begun. Every classic idea +being scared by such sounds and such objects, I dined in dudgeon, and +refused stirring out till late in the evening. + +A few paces from the town stand the remains of the palace where the +Gonzagas formerly resided. This I could not resist looking at, and +was amply rewarded. Several of the apartments, adorned by the bold +pencil of Julio Romano, merit the most exact attention; and the +grotesques, with which the stucco ceilings are covered, equal the +celebrated loggios of the Vatican. I don't recollect ever having +seen these elegant designs engraven, and believe it would be +perfectly worth the pains of some capital artist to copy them. Being +in fresco upon damp neglected walls, each year diminishes their +number, and every winter moulders some beautiful figure away. + +The subjects, mostly from antique fables, are treated with all the +purity and gracefulness of Raphael. Amongst others the story of +Polypheme is very conspicuous. Acis appears, reclined with his +beloved Galatea, on the shore of the ocean, whilst their gigantic +enemy, seated above on the brow of AEtna, seems by the paleness and +horrors of his countenance to meditate some terrible revenge. + +When it was too late to examine the paintings any longer, I walked +into a sort of court, or rather garden, which had been decorated with +fountains and antique statues. Their fragments still remain amongst +weeds and beds of flowers, for every corner of the place is smothered +with vegetation. Here nettles grow thick and rampant: there, +tuberoses and jessamine cling around mounds of ruins, which during +the elegant reign of the Gonzagas led to grottos and subterranean +apartments, concealed from vulgar eyes, and sacred to the most +refined enjoyments. I gathered a tuberose that sprang from a shell +of white marble, once trickling with water, now half filled with +mould, and carrying it home, shut myself up for the rest of the +night, inhaled its perfume, and fell a-dreaming. + +September 12th.--A shower having fallen, the air was refreshed, and +the drops still glittered upon the vines, through which our road +conducted us. Three or four miles from Mantua the scene changed to +extensive grounds of rice, and meads of the tenderest verdure watered +by springs, whose frequent meanders gave to the whole prospect the +appearance of a vast green carpet shot with silver. Further on we +crossed the Po, and passing Guastalla, entered a woody country full +of inclosures and villages; herds feeding in the meadows, and poultry +parading before every wicket. + +The peasants were busied in winnowing their corn; or, mounted upon +the elms and poplars, gathering the rich clusters from the vines that +hang streaming in braids from one branch to another. I was surprised +to find myself already in the midst of the vintage, and to see every +road crowded with carts and baskets bringing it along; you cannot +imagine a pleasanter scene. + +Round Reggio it grew still more lively, and on the other side of that +agreeable little city, I remarked many a cottage that Tityrus might +have inhabited, with its garden and willow hedge in flower, swarming +with bees. Our road, the smoothest conceivable, led us, perhaps too +rapidly, by so cheerful a landscape. I caught glimpses of fields and +copses as we fled along, that could have afforded me amusement for +hours, and orchards on gentle acclivities, beneath which I could have +walked till evening. The trees literally bent under their loads of +fruit, and innumerable ruddy apples lay scattered upon the ground - + + +"Strata jacent passim sus quaeque sub arbore poma." + + +Beyond these rich masses of foliage, to which the sun lent additional +splendour, at the utmost extremity of the pastures, rose the +irregular ridge of the Apennines, whose deep blue presented a +striking contrast to the glowing colours of the foreground. I fixed +my eyes on the chain of distant mountains, and indulged, as usual, my +conjectures of what was going forward on their summits; of those who +tended goats on the edge of the precipice; traversed, at this moment, +the dark thickets of pines, and passed their lives in yonder sheds, +contented and unknown. Such were the dreams that filled my fancy, +and kept it incessantly employed till it was dusk, and the moon began +to show herself; the same moon which, but a few days ago, had seen me +so happy at Fiesso. Her soft light reposed upon the meads, that had +been newly mown, and the shadows of tall poplars were cast aslant +them. I left my carriage, and running into the dim haze, abandoned +myself to the recollection it inspired. During an hour, I kept +continually flying forwards; bounding from enclosure to enclosure +like a hunted antelope, and forgetting where I was or whither I was +going. One sole idea filled my mind, and led me on with such +heedless rapidity, that I stumbled over stones and bushes, and +entangled myself on every wreath of vines which opposed my progress. +At length, having wandered where chance or the wildness of my fancy +led, till the lateness of the evening alarmed me, I regained the +chaise as fast as I could, and arrived between ten and eleven at the +place of my destination. + +September 13th.--Having but a moment or two at liberty, I hurried +early in the morning to the palace, and entered an elegant Ionic +court, with arcades of the whitest stone, through which I caught +peeps of a clear blue sky and groves of cypresses. Some few good +paintings still adorn the apartments, but the best part of the +collection has been disposed of, for a hundred thousand sequins, +amongst which was that inestimable picture, the Notte of Corregio. +An excellent copy remained and convinced me the original was not +undeservedly celebrated. None but the pencil of Corregio ever +designed such graceful angels, nor imagined such a pearly dawn to +cast around them. Ten thousand times, I dare say, has the subject of +the Nativity been treated, and as many painters have failed in +rendering it so pleasing. The break of day, the first smiles of the +celestial infant, and the truth, the simplicity of every countenance, +cannot be too warmly admired. In the other rooms, no picture gave me +more pleasure than Jacob's Vision by Domenico Feti. I gazed several +minutes at the grand confusion of clouds and seraphim descending +around the patriarch, and wished for a similar dream. + +Having spent the little time I had remaining in contemplating this +object, I hastened from the palace and left Modena. + +We traversed a champagne country in our way to Bologna, whose +richness and fertility increased in proportion as we drew near that +celebrated mart of lap-dogs and sausages. A chain of hills commands +the city, variegated with green inclosures and villas innumerable, +almost every one of which has its grove of chestnuts and cypresses. +On the highest acclivity of this range appears the magnificent +convent of Madonna del Monte, embosomed in wood, and joined to the +town by a corridor a league in length. This vast portico, ascending +the steeps and winding amongst the thickets, sometimes concealed and +sometimes visible, produces an effect wonderfully grand and singular. +I longed to have mounted the height by so extraordinary a passage; +and hope on some future day to be better acquainted with Saint Maria +del Monte. + +At present I thought of little else, to say truth, but what I had +seen at Fiesso; and what I was to hear at Lucca. The anxiety +inspired by the one, and impatience by the other, rendered me +shamefully insensible to the merits of Bologna (where I passed near +two hours), and of which I can add nothing but that it is very much +out of humour, an earthquake and Cardinal Buoncompagni having +disarranged both land and people. For half-a-year the ground +continued trembling; and for these last months, the legate and +senators have grumbled and scratched incessantly; so that, between +natural and political commotions, the Bolognese must have passed an +agreeable summer. + +Such a report of the situation of things, you may suppose, was not +likely to retard my journey. I put off delivering my letters to +another opportunity; ran up a tall slender tower as high as the +Campanile di San Marco, by way of exercise; and proceeded immediately +after dinner towards the mountains. We were soon in the midst of +crags and stony channels, that stream with ten thousand rills in the +winter season, but during the summer months reflect every sunbeam, +and harbour half the scorpions in the country. + +For many a toilsome league our prospect consisted of nothing but +dreary hillocks and intervening wastes, more barren and mournful than +those to which Mary Magdalene retired. Sometimes a crucifix or +chapel peeped out of the parched fern and grasses, with which these +desolate fields are clothed; and now and then we met a goggle-eyed +pilgrim trudging along, and staring about him as if he waited only +for night and opportunity to have additional reasons for hurrying to +Jerusalem. + +During three or four hours that we continued ascending, the scene +increased in sterility and desolation; but, at the end of our second +post, the landscape began to alter for the better: little green +valleys at the base of tremendous steeps, discovered themselves, +scattered over with oaks, and freshened with running waters, which +the nakedness of the impending rocks set off to advantage. The sides +of the cliffs in general consist of rude misshapen masses; but their +summits are smooth and verdant, and continually browsed by herds of +white goats, which were gambolling on the edge of the precipices as +we passed beneath. + +I joined one of these frisking assemblies, whose shadows were +stretched by the setting sun along the level herbage. There I sat a +few minutes whilst they shook their beards at me, and tried to scare +me with all their horns; but I was not to be frightened, and would +offer up my adorations to departing day, in spite of their caperings. +Being tired with skipping and butting at me in vain, the whole herd +trotted away, and I after them. They led me a dance from crag to +crag and from thicket to thicket. + +It was growing dusky apace, and wreaths of smoke began to ascend from +the mysterious depths of the valleys. I was ignorant what monster +inhabited such retirements, so gave over my pursuit, lest some +Polypheme or other might make me repent it. I looked around, the +carriage was out of sight; but hearing the neighing of horses at a +distance, I soon came up with them, and mounted another rapid ascent, +whence an extensive tract of cliff and forest land was discernible. + +The rocks here formed a spacious terrace; along which I continued +surveying the distant groves, and marking the solemn approach of +night. The sky was hung with storms, and a pale moon seemed to +advance with difficulty amongst broken and tempestuous clouds. It +was an hour to reap plants with brazen sickles, and to meditate upon +revenge. + +A chill wind blew from the highest peak of the Apennines, inspiring +evil, and making a dismal rustle amongst the woods of chestnut that +hung on the mountain's side, through which we were forced to pass. I +never heard such fatal murmurs; nor felt myself so gloomily. I +walked out of the sound of the carriage, where the glimmering +moonlight prevailed, and began interpreting the language of the +leaves, not greatly to my own advantage or that of any being in the +universe. I was no prophet of good, but full of melancholy bodings, +and something that bordered upon despair. Had I but commanded an +oracle, as ancient visionaries were wont, I should have thrown whole +nations into dismay. + +How long I continued in this strange temper I cannot pretend to say, +but believe it was midnight before we emerged from the oracular +forest, and saw faintly before us the huts of Lognone, where we were +to sleep. This blessed hamlet is suspended on the brow of a bleak +mountain, and every gust that stirs shakes the whole village to its +foundations. At our approach two hags stalked forth with lanterns +and invited us with a grin, which I shall always remember, to a dish +of mustard and crow's gizzards, a dish I was more than half afraid of +tasting, lest it should change me to some bird of darkness, condemned +to mope eternally on the black rafters of the cottage. + +After repeated supplications we procured a few eggs, and some faggots +to make a fire. Its blaze gave me courage to hear the hollow blasts +that whistled in the crevices; and pitching my bed in a warm corner, +I soon fell asleep, and forgot all my cares and inquietudes. + +September 14th.--The sun had not been long above the horizon, before +we set forward upon a craggy pavement hewn out of the rough bosom of +the cliffs and precipices. Scarce a tree was visible, and the few +that presented themselves began already to shed their leaves. The +raw nipping air of this desert with difficulty spares a blade of +vegetation; and in the whole range of these extensive eminences I +could not discover a single corn-field or pasture. Inhabitants, you +may guess, there were none. I would defy even a Scotch highlander to +find means of subsistence in so rude a soil. + +Towards midday, we had surmounted the dreariest part of our journey, +and began to perceive a milder landscape. The climate improved as +well as the prospect, and after a continual descent of several hours, +we saw groves and villages in the dips of the hills, and met a string +of mules and horses laden with fruit. I purchased some figs and +peaches from this little caravan, and spreading my repast upon a +bank, baked in the sunshine, and gathered large spikes of lavender in +full bloom. + +Continuing our route, we bid adieu to the realms of poverty and +barrenness, and entered a cultivated vale sheltered by woody +acclivities. Among these we wound along, the peasants singing upon +the hill, and driving their cattle to springs by the road's side; +near one of which we dined in a patriarchal manner, and afterwards +pursued our course through a grove of taper cypresses, waving with +the cool gales of the evening. The heights were suffused with a +ruddy glow, proceeding from the light pink clouds which floated on +the horizon. No others were to be seen. All nature seemed in a +happy tranquil state; the herds penned in their folds, and every +rustic going to repose. I shared the general calm for the first time +this many a tedious hour; and traversed the dales in peace, abandoned +to flattering hopes and gay illusions. The full moon shone +propitiously upon me as I ascended a hill, and discovered Florence at +a distance, surrounded with gardens and terraces, rising one above +another. The serene moonlight on the pale grey tints of the olive, +gave an Elysian, visionary appearance to the landscape. I never +beheld so mild a sky, nor such soft gleams: the mountains were +veiled in azure mists, which concealed their rugged summits; and the +plains in vapours, that smoothed their irregularities, and diffused a +faint aerial hue, to which no description can render justice. I +could have contemplated such scenery for hours, and was sorry when I +found myself shut up from it by the gates of Florence. We passed +several lofty palaces of the true Tuscan order, with rustic arcades +and stout columns, whose solidity and magnificence were not +diminished by the shades of midnight. Whilst these grand masses lay +dark and solemn, the smooth flagstone, with which every street is +paved, received a chequered gleam, and the Arno, the brightest +radiance. Though tired with my jumble over the Apennines, I could +not resist the temptation of walking upon the banks of so celebrated +a river, and crossing its bridges, which still echoed with music and +conversation. Having gratified the first impulse of curiosity, I +returned to Vaninis, and slept as well as my impatience would allow, +till it was time next morning (September 15th), to visit the gallery, +and worship the Venus de Medicis. I felt, upon entering this world +of taste and elegance, as if I could have taken up my abode in it for +ever; but confused with the multitude of objects, I knew not where to +turn myself, and ran childishly by the ample ranks of sculptures, +like a butterfly in a parterre, that skims before it fixes, over ten +thousand flowers. + +Having taken my course down one side of the gallery, I turned the +angle and discovered another long perspective, equally stored with +prodigies of bronze and marble; paintings on the walls, on the +ceilings, in short, everywhere. A minute brought me, vast as it was, +to the extremity of this range; then, flying down a third, adorned in +the same delightful manner, I paused under the bust of Jupiter +Olympius; and began to reflect a little more maturely upon the +company in which I found myself. Opposite, appeared the majestic +features of Minerva, breathing divinity; and Cybele, the mother of +the gods. + +I bowed low to these awful powers, but seeing a black figure just by, +whose attitude seemed to announce the deity of sleep, I made +immediately up to it. You know my fondness for this drowsy +personage, and that it is not the first time I have quitted the most +splendid society for him. I found him, at present, of touchstone, +with the countenance of a towardly brat, sleeping ill through +indigestion. The artist had not conceived such high ideas of the god +as live in my bosom, or else he never would have represented him with +so little grace or dignity. + +Displeased at finding my favourite subject profaned, I perceived the +lively transports of enthusiasm began in some degree to be +dissipated, and I felt myself calm enough to follow the herd of +guides and spectators from chamber to chamber and cabinet to cabinet, +without falling into errors of rapture and inspiration. We were led +slowly and moderately through the large rooms, containing the +portraits of painters, good, bad, and indifferent, from Raffaelle to +Liotard; then into a museum of bronzes, which would afford both +amusement and instruction for years. + +To one who can never behold an ancient lamp or tripod without the +associations of those who sacrificed on the one and meditated by the +other, imagine what pleasures such a repository must have +communicated. + +When I had alarmed, not satisfied, my curiosity by rapidly running +over this multitude of candelabra, urns, and sacred utensils, we +entered a small luminous apartment, surrounded with cases richly +decorated, and filled with the most exquisite models of workmanship +in bronze and various metals, classed in exact order. Here are +crowds of diminutive deities and tutelary lars, to whom the +superstition of former days attributed those midnight murmurs which +were believed to presage the misfortunes of a family. Amongst these +now neglected images are preserved a vast number of talismans, +cabalistic amulets, and other grotesque relics of ancient credulity. + +In the centre of the room, I remarked a table, beautifully formed of +polished gems, and, hard by it, the statue of a genius with his +familiar serpent, and all his attributes; the guardian of the +treasured antiquities. From this chamber we were conducted into +another, which opens to that part of the gallery where the busts of +Adrian and Antinous are placed. Two pilasters, delicately carved in +trophies and clusters of ancient armour, stand on each side of the +entrance; within are several perfumed cabinets of miniatures, and a +single column of Oriental alabaster about ten feet in height, + + +"Lucido e terso, e bianco, piu che latte." + + +I put my guide's patience to the proof, by remaining much longer than +any one else ever did, in admiring the pillar, and rummaging the +drawers of the cabinets. At last, the musk with which they are +impregnated obliged me to desist, and I moved on to a suite of +saloons, with low arched roofs, glittering with arabesque, in azure +and gold. Several medallions appear amongst the wreaths of foliage, +tolerably well painted, with representations of splendid feasts and +tournaments for which Florence was once so famous. + +A vast collection of small pictures, most of them Flemish, covers the +walls of these apartments. But nothing struck me more than a +Medusa's head by that surprising genius Leonardo da Vinci. It +appears just severed from the body, and cast on the damp pavement of +a cavern: a deadly paleness covers the countenance, and the mouth +exhales a pestilential vapour: the snakes, which fill almost the +whole picture, beginning to untwist their folds; one or two seemed +already crept away, and crawling up the rock in company with toads +and other venomous reptiles. + +The colouring of these disgustful objects is faithful to a great +degree; the effect of light, prodigious; the whole so masterly that I +could not help entering into this description; though I fear to +little purpose, as words at best convey but a weak idea of objects +addressed to the sight alone. + +Here are a great many Polemburgs: one in particular, the strangest I +ever beheld. Instead of those soft scenes of woods and waterfalls he +is in general so fond of representing, he has chosen for his subject +Virgil ushering Dante into the regions of eternal punishment, amidst +the ruins of flaming edifices that glare across the infernal waters. +These mournful towers harbour innumerable shapes, all busy in preying +upon the damned. One capital devil, in the form of an enormous +lobster, seems very strenuously employed in mumbling a miserable +mortal, who sprawls, though in vain, to escape from his claws. This +performance, whimsical as it is, retains all that softness of tint +and delicacy of pencil for which Polemburg is so renowned. + +Had not the subject so palpably contradicted the execution as to +become remarkable, I should have passed it over, like a thousand +more, and brought you immediately to the Tribune. I dare say our +sensations were similar on entering this apartment. Need I say I was +enchanted the moment I set my feet within it, and saw full before me +the Venus de Medicis? The warm ivory hue of the original marble is a +beauty no copy has ever imitated, and the softness of the limbs +exceeded the liveliest idea I had formed to myself of their +perfection. + +Their symmetry every artist is acquainted with; but do you recollect +a faint ruddy cast in the hair, which admirably relieves the +whiteness of the forehead? This circumstance, though perhaps +accidental, struck me as peculiarly charming; it increased the +illusion, and helped me to imagine I beheld a breathing divinity. + +When I had taken my eyes reluctantly from this beautiful object, I +cast them upon a Morpheus of white marble, which lies slumbering at +the feet of the goddess in the form of a graceful child. A dormant +lion serves him for a pillow: two ample wings, carved with the +utmost delicacy, are gathered under him; two others, budding from his +temples, half concealed by a flow of lovely ringlets. His languid +hands scarce hold a bunch of poppies: near him creeps a lizard, just +yielding to his influence. Nothing can be more just than the +expression of sleep in the countenance of the little divinity. His +lion too seems perfectly lulled, and rests his muzzle upon his fore- +paws as quiet as a domestic mastiff. I contemplated the god with +infinite satisfaction, till I felt an agreeable sleepiness steal over +my senses, and should have liked very well to doze away a few hours +by his side. My ill-humour at seeing this deity so grossly +sculptured in the gallery, was dissipated by the gracefulness of his +appearance in the Tribune. I was now contented, for the artist, (to +whom the Lord give a fair seat in paradise!) had realized my ideas; +and, if I may venture my opinion, sculpture never arrived to higher +perfection, or, at the same time, kept more justly within its +province. Sleeping figures with me always produce the finest +illusion. I easily persuade myself that I behold the very personage, +cast into the lethargic state which is meant to be represented, and I +can gaze whole hours upon them with complacency. But when I see an +archer in the very act of discharging his arrow, a dancer with one +foot in the air, or a gladiator extending his fist to all eternity, I +grow tired, and ask, When will they perform what they are about? +When will the bow twang? the foot come to the ground? or the fist +meet its adversary? Such wearisome attitudes I can view with +admiration, but never with pleasure. The wrestlers, for example, in +the same apartment, filled me with disgust: I cried out, For +heaven's sake! give the throw, and have done. In taking my turn +round the enchanted circle, I discovered still, another Morpheus; +stretched carelessly on a mantle, with poppies in his hands; but no +wings grow from his temples, nor lion supports his head. A moth just +issuing from his chrysalis is the only being which seems to have felt +his soporific influence; whereas the other god I have mentioned may +vaunt the glory of subduing the most formidable of animals. + +The morning was gone before I could snatch myself from the Tribune. +In my way home, I looked into the cathedral, an enormous fabric, +inlaid with the richest marbles, and covered with stars and chequered +work, like an old-fashioned cabinet. The architect seems to have +turned his building inside out; nothing in art being more ornamented +than the exterior, and few churches so simple within. The nave is +vast and solemn, the dome amazingly spacious, with the high altar in +its centre, inclosed by a circular arcade near two hundred feet in +diameter. There is something imposing in this decoration, as it +suggests the idea of a sanctuary, into which none but the holy ought +to penetrate. However profane I might feel myself, I took the +liberty of entering, and sat myself down in a niche. Not a ray of +light reaches this sacred inclosure, but through the medium of narrow +windows, high in the dome and richly painted. A sort of yellow tint +predominates, which gives additional solemnity to the altar, and +paleness to the votary before it. I was sensible of the effect, and +obtained at least the colour of sanctity. + +Having remained some time in this pious hue, I returned home and +feasted upon grapes and ortolans with great edification; then walked +to one of the bridges across the Arno, and surveyed the hills at a +distance, purpled by the declining sun. Its mild beams tempted me to +the garden of Boboli, which lies behind the Palazzo Pitti, stretched +out on the side of a mountain. I ascended terrace after terrace, +robed by a thick underwood of hay and myrtle, above which rise +several nodding towers, and a long sweep of venerable wall, almost +entirely concealed by ivy. You would have been enraptured with the +broad masses of shade and dusky alleys that opened as I advanced, +with white statues of fauns and sylvans glimmering amongst them; some +of which pour water into sarcophagi of the purest marble, covered +with antique relievos. The capitals of columns and ancient friezes +are scattered about as seats. + +On these I reposed myself, and looked up to the cypress groves +spiring above the thickets; then, plunging into their retirements, I +followed a winding path, which led me by a series of steep ascents to +a green platform overlooking the whole extent of wood, with Florence +deep beneath, and the tops of the hills which encircle it, jagged +with pines; here and there a convent, or villa, whitening in the sun. +This scene extends as far as the eye can reach. + +Still ascending I attained the brow of the mountain, and had nothing +but the fortress of Belvedere, and two or three open porticos above +me. On this elevated situation, I found several walks of trellis- +work, clothed with luxuriant vines, that produce to my certain +knowledge the most delicious clusters. A colossal statue of Ceres, +her hands extended in the act of scattering fertility over the +prospect, crowns the summit, where I lingered to mark the landscape +fade, and the bright skirts of the western sun die gradually away. + +Then descending alley after alley, and bank after bank, I came to the +orangery in front of the palace, disposed in a grand amphitheatre, +with marble niches relieved by dark foliage, out of which spring tall +aerial cypresses. This spot brought the scenery of an antique Roman +garden full into my mind. I expected every instant to be called to +the table of Lucullus hard by, in one of the porticoes, and to +stretch myself on his purple triclinias; but waiting in vain for a +summons till the approach of night, I returned delighted with a +ramble that had led me so far into antiquity. + +Friday, September 16th.--My impatience to hear Pacchierotti called me +up with the sun. I blessed a day which was to give me the greatest +of musical pleasures, and travelled gaily towards Lucca, along a +fertile plain, bounded by rocky hills, and scattered over with towns +and villages. We passed Pistoia in haste, and about three in the +afternoon entered the Lucchese territory, by a clean, paved road, +which runs through some of the pleasantest copses imaginable, +bordered with a variety of heaths and broom in blossom. Sometimes it +conducted us down slopes, overgrown with shrubby chestnuts and arbor +vitae; sometimes between groves of cypresses and pines laden with +cones: a red soil peeping forth from the vegetation adds to the +richness of the landscape, which swells all the way into gentle +acclivities: and at about seven or eight miles from the city spreads +into mountains, green to their very summits, and diversified with +gardens and palaces. A more pleasing scenery can with difficulty be +imagined: I was quite charmed with beholding it, as I knew very well +that the opera would keep me a long while chained down in its +neighbourhood. + +Happy for me that the environs of Lucca were so beautiful; since I +defy almost any city to contain more ugliness within its walls. +Narrow streets and dismal alleys; wide gutters and cracked pavements; +everybody in black, like mourners for the gloom of their habitations, +which, however, are large and lofty enough of conscience; but having +all grated windows, they convey none but dark and dungeon-like ideas. +My spirits fell many degrees upon entering this sable capital; and +when I found Friday was meagre day, in every sense of the word, with +its inhabitants, and no opera to be performed, I grew terribly out of +humour, and shut myself up in a chamber of the inn, which, to +complete my misfortune, was crowded with human lumber. Instead of a +delightful symphony, I heard nothing for some time but the clatter of +plates and the swearing of waiters. + +Amongst the number of my tormentors was a whole Genoese family of +distinction; very fat and sleek, and terribly addicted to the violin. +Hearing of my fondness for music, they speedily got together a few +scrapers, and began such an academia as drove me to one end of the +room, whilst they possessed the other. The hopes and heir of the +family--a coarse chubby dolt of about eighteen--played out of all +time, and during the interval of repose he gave his elbow, burst out +into a torrent of commonplace, which completed, you may imagine, my +felicity. + +Pacchierotti, whom they all worshipped in their heavy way, sat silent +the while in a corner; the second soprano warbled, not absolutely +ill, at the harpsichord; whilst the old lady, young lady, and +attendant females, kept ogling him with great perseverance. Those +who could not get in, squinted through the crevices of the door. +Abbes and greyhounds were fidgeting continually without. In short, I +was so worried that, pleading headaches and lassitudes, I escaped +about ten o'clock, and shook myself when I got safe to my apartment, +like a spaniel just fresh from a dripping copse. + + + +LETTER XIV + + + +LUCCA, September 25th. + +You ask me how I pass my time. Generally upon the hills, in wild +spots where the arbutus flourishes: from whence I may catch a +glimpse of the distant sea; my horse tied to a cypress, and myself +cast upon the grass, like Palmarin of Oliva, with a tablet and pencil +in my hand, a basket of grapes by my side, and a crooked stick to +shake down the chestnuts. I have bidden adieu, several days ago, to +the dinners and glories of the town, and only come thither in an +evening, just time enough for the grand march which precedes +Pacchierotti in Quinto Fabio. Sometimes he accompanies me in my +excursions, to the utter discontent of the Lucchese, who swear I +shall ruin their opera, by leading him such confounded rambles +amongst the mountains, and exposing him to the inclemency of winds +and showers. One day they made a vehement remonstrance, but in vain; +for the next, away we trotted over hill and dale, and stayed so late +in the evening, that cold and hoarseness were the consequence. + +The whole republic was thrown into commotion, and some of its prime +ministers were deputed to harangue Pacchierotti upon the rides he had +committed. Billingsgate never produced such furious orators. Had +the safety of their mighty state depended upon this imprudent +excursion, they could not have vociferated with greater violence. +You know I am rather energetic, and, to say truth, I had very nearly +got into a scrape of importance, and drawn down the execrations of +the Gonfalonier and all his council upon my head, in defending him, +and in openly declaring our intention of taking, next morning, +another ride over the rocks, and absolutely losing ourselves in the +clouds which veil their acclivities. These threats were put into +execution, and yesterday we made a tour of about thirty miles upon +the highlands, and visited a variety of castles and palaces. + +The Conte Nobili conducted us, a noble Lucchese, but born in Flanders +and educated at Paris. He possesses the greatest elegance of +imagination, and a degree of sensibility rarely met with upon our +gross planet. The way did not appear tedious in such company. The +sun was tempered by light clouds, and a soft autumnal haze rested +upon the hills, covered with shrubs and olives. The distant plains +and forests appeared tinted with deep blue, and I am now convinced +the azure so prevalent in Velvet Breughel's landscapes is not +exaggerated. + +After riding for six or seven miles along the cultivated levels, we +began to ascend a rough slope, overgrown with chestnuts; here and +there some vines streaming in garlands displayed their clusters. A +great many loose fragments and stumps of ancient pomegranates +perplexed our route, which continued, turning and winding through +this sort of wilderness, till it opened on a sudden to the side of a +lofty mountain, covered with tufted groves, amongst which hangs the +princely castle of the Garzonis, on the very side of a precipice. + +Alcina could not have chosen a more romantic situation. The garden +lies extended beneath, gay with flowers, and glittering with +compartments of spar, which, though in no great purity of taste, has +an enchanted effect for the first time. Two large marble basins, +with jet-d'eaux seventy feet in height, divide the parterres; from +the extremity of which rises a rude cliff, shaded with firs and ilex, +and cut into terraces. + +Leaving our horses at the great gate of this magic inclosure, we +passed through the spray of the fountains, and mounting an almost +endless flight of steps, entered an alley of oranges, and gathered +ripe fruit from the trees. Whilst we were thus employed, the sun +broke from the clouds, and lighted up the vivid green of the +vegetation; at the same time spangling the waters, which pour +copiously down a succession of rocky terraces, and sprinkle the +impending citron-trees with perpetual dew. These streams issue from +a chasm in the cliff, surrounded by cypresses, which conceal by their +thick branches some pavilions with baths. Above arises a colossal +statue of Fame, boldly carved, and in the very act of starting from +the precipices. A narrow path leads up to the feet of the goddess, +on which I reclined; whilst a vast column of water arched over my +head, and fell, without even wetting me with its spray, into the +depths below. + +I could with difficulty prevail upon myself to abandon this cool +recess, which the fragrance of bay and orange, extracted by constant +showers, rendered uncommonly luxurious. At last I consented to move +on, through a dark wall of ilex, which, to the credit of Signor +Garzoni be it spoken, is suffered to grow as wild and as forest-like +as it pleases. This grove is suspended on the mountain side, whose +summit is clothed with a boundless wood of olives, and forms, by its +azure colour, a striking contrast with the deep verdure of its base. + +After resting a few moments in the shade, we proceeded to a long +avenue (bordered by aloes in bloom, forming majestic pyramids of +flowers thirty feet high), which led us to the palace. This was soon +run over. Then, mounting our horses, we wound amongst sunny vales, +and inclosures with myrtle hedges, till we came to a rapid steep. We +felt the heat most powerfully in ascending it, and were glad to take +refuge under a bower of vines, which runs for miles along its summit, +almost without interruption. These arbours afforded us both shade +and refreshment; I fell upon the clusters which formed our ceiling, +like a native of the north, unused to such luxuriance: one of those +Goths which Gray so poetically describes, who + + +"Scent the new fragrance of the breathing rose, +And quaff the pendent vintage as it grows." + + +I wish you had journeyed with us under this fruitful canopy, and +observed the partial sunshine through its transparent leaves, and the +glimpses of the blue sky it every now and then admitted. I say only +every now and then, for in most places a sort of verdant gloom +prevailed, exquisitely agreeable in so hot a day. + +But such luxury did not last, you may suppose, for ever. We were +soon forced from our covert, and obliged to traverse a mountain +exposed to the sun, which had dispersed every cloud, and shone with +intolerable brightness. On the other side of this extensive eminence +lies an agreeable hillock, surrounded by others, woody and irregular. +Wide vineyards and fences of Indian corn lay between, across which +the Conte Nobili conducted us to his house, where we found prepared a +very comfortable dinner. We drank the growth of the spot, and defied +Constantia and the Cape to excel it. + +Afterwards, retiring into a wood of the Marchese Mansi, with neat +pebble walks and trickling rivulets, we sipped coffee and loitered +till sunset. It was then time to return: the dews began to fall, +and the mists to rise from the valleys. The profound calm and +silence of evening threw us all three into our reveries. We went +pacing along heedlessly, just as our horses pleased, without hearing +any sound but their steps. + +Between nine and ten we entered the gates of Lucca. Pacchierotti +coughed, and half its inhabitants wished us at the devil. + +I think now I have detained you long enough with my excursions: you +must require a little repose; for my own part, I am heartily tired. +I intended to say some things about certain owls, amongst other +grievances I am pestered with in this republic; but shall cut them +all short, and wish you good-night; for the opera is already begun, +and I would not miss the first glorious recitative for the empire of +Trebizond. + + + +LETTER XV + + + +LIVOURNO, October 2nd. + +No sooner were we beyond the gates, than we found ourselves in narrow +roads, shut in by vines and grassy banks of canes and osiers, rising +high above our carriage, and waving their leaves in the air. Through +the openings which sometimes intervene we discovered a variety of +hillocks clothed with shrubberies and verdure, ruined towers looking +out of the bushes, not one without a romantic tale attending it. + +This sort of scenery lasted till, passing the baths, we beheld Pisa +rising from an extensive plain, the most open we had as yet seen in +Italy, crossed by an aqueduct. We were set down immediately before +the Duomo, which stands insulated in a verdant opening, and is by far +the most curious and highly finished edifice my eyes ever viewed. +Don't ask of what shape or architecture; it is almost impossible to +tell, so great is the confusion of ornaments. The capitals of the +columns and carvings of the architraves, as well as the form of the +arches, are evidently of Grecian design, but Gothic proportions. The +dome gives the mass an Oriental appearance, which helped to bewilder +me; in short, I have dreamed of such buildings, but little thought +they existed. On one side you survey the famous tower, as perfectly +awry as I expected; on the other the baptistery, a circular edifice +distinct from the church and right opposite its principal entrance, +crowded with sculptures and topped by the strangest of cupolas. + +Having indulged our curiosity with this singular prospect for some +moments, we entered the cathedral and admired the stately columns of +porphyry and the rarest marbles, supporting a roof which, like the +rest of the building, shines with gold. A pavement of the brightest +mosaic completes its magnificence: all around are sculptures by M. +Ang. Buonaroti, and paintings by the most distinguished artists. We +examined them all, and then walked down the nave and remarked the +striking effect of the baptistery, seen in perspective through the +bronze portals, which you know, I suppose, are covered with relievos +of the finest workmanship. These noble valves were thrown wide open, +and we passed between to examine the alabaster fount in the +baptistery, constructed after the primitive ritual, and exquisitely +wrought. Many palm trees appear amongst the carved work, which seems +to indicate the former connections of the Pisanese with Palestine. + +Our next object was the Campo Santo, which forms one side of the +opening in which the cathedral is situated. The walls, and Gothic +tabernacle above the entrance, rising from a level turf, appear as +fresh as if built within the present century, and, preserving a neat +straw colour, have the cleanest effect imaginable. Our guide +unlocking the gates, we entered a spacious cloister, forming an +oblong quadrangle, enclosing the sacred earth of Jerusalem, conveyed +hither about the period of the crusades, in the days of Pisanese +prosperity. The holy mould produces a rampant crop of weeds, but +none are permitted to spring from the pavement, which is entirely +composed of tombs with slabs and monumental inscriptions smoothly +laid. Ranges of slender pillars, formed of the whitest marble and +glistening in the sun, support the arcades, which are carved with +innumerable stars and roses, partly Gothic and partly Saracenial. +Strange paintings of hell and the devil, mostly taken from Dante's +rhapsodies, cover the walls of these fantastic galleries, attributed +to the venerable Giotto and Bufalmacco, whom Boccace mentions in his +"Decamerone." + +Beneath, along the base of the columns, rows of pagan sarcophagi are +placed, to my no small surprise, as I could not have supposed the +Pisanese sufficiently tolerant to admit profane sculptures within +such consecrated precincts. However, there they are, as well as +fifty other contradictory ornaments. + +I was quite seized by the strangeness of the place, and paced fifty +times round and round the cloisters, discovering at every time some +odd novelty. When tired, I seated myself on a fair slab of giallo +antico, that looked a little cleaner than its neighbours (which I +only mention to identify the precise point of view), and looking +through the filigreed covering of the arches, observed the domes of +the cathedral, cupola of the baptistery, and roof of the leaning +tower rising above the leads, and forming the strangest assemblage of +pinnacles perhaps in Europe. The place is neither sad nor solemn; +the arches are airy, the pillars light, and there is so much caprice, +such an exotic look in the whole scene, that without any violent +effort of fancy one might imagine one's self in fairyland. Every +object is new, every ornament original; the mixture of antique +sarcophagi with Gothic sepulchres, completes the vagaries of the +prospect, to which, one day or other, I think of returning, to act a +visionary part, hear visionary music, and commune with sprites, for I +shall never find in the whole universe besides so whimsical a +theatre. It was between ten and eleven when we entered the Campo +Santo, and one o'clock struck before I could be persuaded to leave +it; and 'twas the sun which then drove me away; whose heat was so +powerful that all the inhabitants of Pisa showed their wisdom by +keeping within doors. Not an animal appeared in the streets, except +five camels laden with water, stalking along a range of garden walls +and pompous mansions, with an awning before every door. We were +obliged to follow their steps, at least a quarter of a mile, before +we reached our inn. Ice was the first thing I sought after, and when +I had swallowed an unreasonable portion, I began not to think quite +so much of the deserts of Africa, as the heat and the camels had +induced me a moment ago. + +Early in the afternoon, we proceeded to Livourno through a wild tract +of forest, somewhat in the style of our English parks. The trees in +some places formed such shady arbours, that we could not resist the +desire of walking beneath them, and were well rewarded; for after +struggling through a rough thicket, we entered a lawn hemmed in by +oaks and chestnuts, which extends several leagues along the coast and +conceals the prospect of the ocean; but we heard its murmurs. + +Nothing could be smoother or more verdant than the herbage, which was +sprinkled with daisies and purple crocuses, as in the month of May. +I felt all the genial sensations of Spring steal into my bosom, and +was greatly delighted upon discovering vast bushes of myrtle in +bloom. The softness of the air, the sound of the distant surges, the +evening gleams, and repose of the landscape, quieted the tumult of my +spirits, and I experienced the calm of my infant hours. I lay down +in the open turf-walks between the shrubberies, listlessly surveyed +the cattle browsing at a distance, and the blue hills that rose above +the foliage, and bounded the view. During a few moments I had +forgotten every care; but when I began to inquire into my happiness, +I found it vanish. I felt myself without those I love most, in +situations they would have warmly admired, and without them these +pleasant meads and woodlands were of little avail. + +We had not left this woody region far behind, when the Fanale began +to lift itself above the horizon--the Fanale you have so often +mentioned; the sky and ocean glowing with amber light, and the ships +out at sea appearing in a golden haze, of which we have no conception +in our northern climates. Such a prospect, together with the fresh +gales from the Mediterranean, charmed me; I hurried immediately to +the port and sat on a reef of rocks, listening to the waves that +broke amongst them. + + + +LETTER XVI + + + +October 3rd.--I went, as you would have done, to walk on the mole as +soon as the sun began to shine upon it. Its construction you are no +stranger to; therefore I think I may spare myself the trouble of +saying anything about it, except that the port which it embraces is +no longer crowded. Instead of ten ranks of vessels there are only +three, and those consist chiefly of Corsican galleys, that look as +poor and tattered as their masters. Not much attention did I bestow +upon such objects, but, taking my seat at the extremity of the quay, +surveyed the smooth plains of ocean, the coast scattered over with +watch-towers, and the rocky isle of Gorgona, emerging from the +morning mists, which still lingered upon the horizon. + +Whilst I was musing upon the scene, and calling up all that train of +ideas before my imagination, which possessed your own upon beholding +it, an ancient figure, with a beard that would have suited a sea-god, +stepped out of a boat, and tottering up the steps of the quay, +presented himself before me with a basket in his hand. He stayed +dripping a few moments before he pronounced a syllable, and when he +began his discourse, I was in doubt whether I should not have moved +off in a hurry, there was something so wan and singular in his +countenance. Except this being, no other was visible for a quarter +of a mile at least. I knew not what strange adventure I might be +upon the point of commencing, or what message I was to expect from +the submarine divinities. However, after all my conjectures, the +figure turned out to be no other than an old fisherman, who, having +picked up a few large branches of red coral, offered them to sale. I +eagerly made the purchase, and thought myself a favourite of Neptune, +since he allowed me to acquire for next to nothing some of his most +beautiful ornaments. + +My bargain thus expeditiously finished, I ran along the quay with my +basket of coral, and, jumping into a boat, was rowed back to the gate +of the port. The carriage waited there; I filled it with jasmine, +shut myself up in the shade of the green blinds, and was driven away +at a rate that favoured my impatience. We bowled smoothly over the +lawns I attempted describing in my last letter, amongst myrtles in +flower, that would have done honour to the island of Juan Fernandes. + +Arrived at Pisa, I scarcely allowed myself a moment to revisit the +Campo Santo, but, after taking my usual portion of ice and +pomegranate-seeds, hurried on to Lucca as fast as horses could carry +me, threw the whole idle town into a stare by my speedy return, and +gave myself up to Q. Fabio. + +Next day (October 4th) was passed in running over my old haunts upon +the hills, and bidding farewell to several venerable chestnuts, for +which I had contracted a sort of friendship by often experiencing +their protection. I could not help feeling some melancholy sensation +when I turned round the last time to bid them adieu. Who knows but +some dryad enclosed within them was conscious of my gratitude, and +noted it down on the bark of her tree? It was late before I finished +my excursion, and soon after I had walked as usual upon the ramparts +the opera began. + + + +LETTER XVII + + + +FLORENCE, October 5th. + +It was not without regret that I forced myself from Lucca. We had +all the same road to go over again, that brought us to this important +republic, but we broke down by way of variety. The wind was chill, +the atmosphere damp and clogged with unwholesome vapours, through +which we were forced to walk for a league, whilst our chaise lagged +after us. + +Taking shelter in a miserable cottage, we remained shivering and +shaking till the carriage was in some sort of order, and then +proceeded so slowly that we did not arrive at Florence till late in +the evening. We found an apartment over the Arno prepared for our +reception. The river, swollen with rains, roared like a mountain +torrent. Throwing open my windows, I viewed its agitated course by +the light of the moon, half concealed in stormy clouds, which hung +above the fortress of the Belvedere, and cast a lowering gleam over +the hills, which rise above the town, and wave with cypress. I sat +contemplating the effect of the shadows on the bridge, on the heights +of Boboli, and the mountain covered with pale olive groves, amongst +which a convent is situated, till the moon sunk into the darkest +quarter of the sky, and a bell began to toll. Its sullen sound +filled me with sadness. I closed the casements, called for lights, +ran to a harpsichord Vannini had prepared for me, and played somewhat +in the strain of Jomelli's Miserere. + +October 6th.--Every cloud was dispersed when I arose; the sunbeams +glittered on the stream, and the purity and transparency of the +tether added new charms to the woody eminences around. Such was the +clearness of the air that even objects on the distant mountains were +distinguishable. I felt quite revived by the exhilarating prospect, +and walked in the splendour of sunshine to the porticos beneath the +famous gallery; then to an ancient castle, raised in the days of the +republic, which fronts the grand piazza: colossal statues and +venerable terms are placed before it. On one side a fountain clung +round with antique figures of bronze, by John of Bologna, so +admirably wrought as to hold me several minutes in astonishment; on +the other, three lofty Gothic arches, and under one of them the +Perseus of Benvenuto Cellini, raised on a pedestal, incomparably +designed and executed; which I could not behold uninterested, since +its author has ever occupied a distinguished place in my kalendar of +genius. Having examined some groups of sculptures, by Baccio +Bandinelli and other mighty artists, I entered the court of the +castle, dark and deep, as if hewn out of a rock; surrounded by a +vaulted arcade, covered with arabesque ornaments, and supported by +pillars as uncouthly carved as those of Persepolis. In the midst +appears a marble fount with an image of bronze, that looks quite +strange and cabalistic. I leaned against it, to look up to the +summits of the walls, which rise to a vast height, from whence +springs a slender tower. Above, in the apartments of the castle, +were preserved numbers of curious cabinets, tables of inlaid gems, +and a thousand rarities, collected by the house of Medici, but +exposed by the present sovereign of Tuscany to public sale. + +It was not without indignation that I learnt this new mark of +contempt which the Austrians bestow on the memory of those +illustrious patrons of the Arts; whom, being unwilling to imitate, +they affect to despise as a race of merchants, whose example it would +be abasing their dignity to follow. + +I could have stayed much longer to enjoy the novelty and strangeness +of the place; but it was right to pay some compliments of form. That +duty over, I dined in peace and solitude, read over your letters, and +repaired, as evening drew on, to the thickets of Boboli. + +What a serene sky! what mellowness in the tints of the mountains! A +purple haze concealed the bases, whilst their summits were invested +with saffron light, discovering every white cot and every copse that +clothed their declivities. The prospect widened as I ascended the +terraces of the garden. + +After traversing many long alleys, brown with impending foliage, I +emerged into a green opening on the brow of the hill, and seated +myself under the statue of Ceres. From this high point I surveyed +the mosaic cupola of the Duomo, its quaint turret, and one still more +grotesque in its neighbourhood, built not improbably in the style of +ancient Etruria. Beyond this singular group of buildings a plain +stretches itself far and wide, most richly scattered over with +villas, gardens, and groves of pine and olive, quite to the feet of +the mountains. + +After I had marked the sun's going down, I went through a plat of +vines hanging on the steeps, to a little eminence, round which the +wood grows wilder and more luxuriant, and the cypresses shoot up to a +surprising elevation. The pruners have spared this sylvan corner, +and suffered the bays to put forth their branches, and the ilex to +dangle over the walks, many of whose entrances are nearly overgrown. +I enjoyed the gloom of these shady arbours, in the midst of which +rises a lofty pavilion with galleries running round it, not unlike +the idea one forms of Turkish chiosks. Beneath lies a garden of +vines and rose-trees, which I visited, and found a spring under a +rustic arch of grotto-work, fringed round with ivy. Millions of fish +inhabit here, of that beautiful glittering species which comes from +China. This golden nation were leaping after insects, as I stood +gazing upon the deep, clear water, and listening to the drops that +trickle from the cove. Opposite to which, at the end of an alley of +vines, you discover an oval bason, and in the midst of it a statue of +Ganymede, sitting reclined upon the eagle, full of that graceful +languor so peculiarly Grecian. Whilst I was musing on the margin of +the spring (for I returned to it after casting a look upon the +sculpture), the moon rose above the tufted foliage of the terraces. +Her silver brightness was strongly contrasted by the deep green of +the holm-oak and bay, amongst which I descended by several flights of +stairs, with neat marble balustrades crowned by vases of aloes. + +It was about seven o'clock, and everybody was jumbling to my Lord T-- +-'s, who lives in a fine house all over blue and silver, with stuffed +birds, alabaster cupids, and a thousand prettinesses more; but, after +all, neither he nor his abode are worth mentioning. I found a deal +of slopping and sipping of tea going forwards, and many dawdlers +assembled. + +As I can say little good of the party, I had better shut the door, +and conduct you to the opera, which is really a striking spectacle. +However, it being addressed to the sight alone, I was soon tired, and +gave myself up to conversation. Bedini, first soprano, put my +patience to severe proof, during the few minutes I attended. You +never beheld such a porpoise. If these animals were to sing, I +should conjecture it would be in his style. You may suppose how +often I invoked Pacchierotti, and regretted the lofty melody of +Quinto Fabio. Everybody seemed as well contented as if there were no +such thing as good music in the world, except a Neapolitan duchess, +who delighted me by her vivacity. We took our fill of maledictions, +and went home equally pleased with each other for having mutually +execrated both singers and audience. + + + +LETTER XVIII + + + +October 22nd.--They say the air is worse this year at Rome than ever, +and that it would be madness to go thither during its malign +influence. This was very bad news indeed to one heartily tired of +Florence, at least of its society. Merciful powers! what a set +harbour within its walls! * * * * * You may imagine I do not take +vast or vehement delight in this company, though very ingenious, +praiseworthy, etc. The woods of the Cascini shelter me every +morning; and there grows an old crooked ilex at their entrance, +twisting round a pine, upon whose branches I sit for hours,--hear, +without feeling, the showers trickling above my head, and see the +cattle browsing peacefully in their pastures, which hazel copses, +Italian pines, and groves of cypress enclose. + +In the afternoon I never fail hiding myself in the thickets of +Boboli, and marking the golden glimmer of sunset between their +leaves. The other evening I varied my walks, and ascended one of +those pleasant hills {214} which rise in the vicinity of the city, +and command a variegated scene of spires, towns, villas, cots, and +gardens. On the right, as you stand upon the brow, appears Fesule +with its turrets and white houses, covering a rocky mount; to the +left, the vast Val d'Arno lost in immensity. A Franciscan convent +stands on the summit of the eminence, wrapped up in ancient +cypresses, which hinder its holy inhabitants from seeing too much of +so gay a view. The paved ascent leading up to their abode receives +also a shade from the cypresses which border it. Beneath which +venerable avenue, crosses with inscriptions are placed at stated +distances, to mark the various moments of Christ's passion; as when +fainting under His burden He halted to repose Himself, or when He met +His afflicted mother ("Giesu incontra la fua afflitta madre"). + +Above, at the end of the perspective, rises a chapel designed with +infinite taste and simple elegance by M. A. Buonarotti. Further on, +an ancient church, in the corrupt Greek style of the primitive +Christians, incrusted with white marble, porphyry, and verd antique. +The interior presents a crowded assemblage of ornaments, elaborate +mosaic pavements, and inlaid work without end. The high altar, +placed in a semicircular recess, which reminded me of the church at +Torcello, glitters with barbaric paintings on a gold ground, and +receives the strongest glow of light imaginable from five windows, +filled up with transparent marble clouded like tortoiseshell. A +smooth polished staircase leads to this sacred place: another +brought me to a subterraneous chapel, supported by confused groups of +variegated pillars, just visible by the glimmer of lamps. I thought +of the Zancaroon at Cordova, and began reciting the first verses of +the Koran. + +Passing on not unawed, I followed some flights of steps, which +terminate in the neat cloisters of the convent, in perfect +preservation, but totally deserted. Ranges of citron and aloes fill +up the quadrangle, whose walls are hung with superstitious pictures +most singularly fancied. The Jesuits were the last tenants of this +retirement, and seem to have had great reason for their choice. Its +peace and stillness delighted me. + +Next day a very opposite scene engaged me, though much against my +will. Her R. H. the G. Duchess having produced a princess in the +night, everybody put on grand gala in the morning, and I was carried, +along with the glittering tide of courtiers, ministers, and ladies, +to see the christening. After hearing the Grand Duke talk politics +for some time, the doors of a temporary chapel were thrown open. +Trumpets flourished, processions marched, and the archbishop began +his business at an altar of massive gold, placed under a yellow silk +pavilion, with pyramids of lights before it. Wax tapers, though it +was noon-day, shone in every corner of the apartments. Two rows of +pages, gorgeously accoutred, and holding enormous torches, stood on +each side his Royal Highness, and made him the prettiest courtesies +imaginable, to the sound of an execrable band of music, though led by +Nardini. The poor old archbishop, who looked very piteous and saint- +like, struck up the Te Deum with a quavering voice, and the rest +followed him full gallop. + +That ceremony being despatched (for his R. H. was in a mighty fidget +to shrink back into his beloved obscurity), the crowd dispersed, and +I went, with a few others, to dine at my Lord Tilney's. + +Evening drawing on, I ran to throw myself into the woods of Boboli, +and remained till it was night in their profound recesses. Really +this garden is enough to bewilder an enthusiastic spirit; there is +something so solemn in its shades, its avenues, and spires of +cypresses. When I had mused for many a melancholy hour amongst them, +I emerged into the orangery before the palace, which overlooks the +largest district of the town, and beheld, as I slowly descended the +road which leads up to it, certain bright lights glancing across the +cupola of the Duomo and the points of the highest towers. At first I +thought them meteors, or those illusive fires which often dance +before the eye of my imagination; but soon I was convinced of their +reality: for in a few minutes the battlements of the old castle, +which I remember mentioning in a former letter, shone with lamps; the +lantern of the cathedral was lighted up on a sudden; whilst a stream +of torches ran along its fantastic turrets. + +I enjoyed this prospect at a distance: when near, its pleasure was +greatly diminished, for half the fish in the town were frying to +rejoice the hearts of H. R. Highness's loyal subjects, and bonfires +blazing in every street and alley. Hubbubs and stinks of every +denomination drove me quickly to the theatre; but that was all +glitter and glare. No taste, no arrangement, paltry looking-glasses, +and rat's-tail candles. I had half a mind to return to Boboli. + + + +LETTER XIX + + + +October 23rd.--Do you recollect our evening rambles last year upon +the hill of pines? and the dark valley where we used to muse in the +twilight? I remember we often fancied the scene like Valombrosa; and +vowed, if ever an occasion offered, to visit that deep retirement. I +had put off the execution of this pilgrimage from day to day till the +warm weather was gone; and the Florentines declared I should be +frozen if I attempted it. Everybody stared last night at the opera +when I told them I was going to bury myself in fallen leaves, and +hear no music but their rustlings. + +Mr. --- was just as eager as myself to escape the chit-chat and +nothingness of Florence; so we finally determined upon our +expedition, and mounting our horses, set out this morning, happily +without any company but the spirit which led us along. We had need +of inspiration, since nothing else, I think, would have tempted us +over such dreary, uninteresting hillocks as rise from the banks of +the Arno. The hoary olive is their principal vegetation; so that +Nature, in this part of the country, seems in a withering decrepit +state, and may not unaptly be compared to "an old woman clothed in +grey." However, we did not suffer the prospect to damp our +enthusiasm, which was the better preserved for Valombrosa. + +About half way, our palfreys thought proper to look out for some +oats, and I to creep into a sort of granary in the midst of a barren +waste, scattered over with white rocks, that reflected more heat than +I cared for, although I had been told snow and ice were to be my +portion. Seating myself on the floor between heaps of corn, I +reached down a few purple clusters of Muscadine grapes, which hung to +dry in the ceiling, and amused myself very pleasantly with them till +the horses had finished their meal and it was lawful to set forwards. +We met with nothing but rocky steeps shattered into fragments, and +such roads as half inclined us to repent our undertaking; but cold +was not yet amongst the number of our evils. + +At last, after ascending a tedious while, we began to feel the wind +blow sharp from the peaks of the mountains, and to hear the murmur of +the forests of pine which shade their acclivities. A paved path +leads across them, quite darkened by boughs, which, meeting over our +heads, cast a gloom and a chill below, that would have stopped the +proceedings of reasonable mortals, and sent them to bask in the +plain; but, being not so easily discomfited, we threw ourselves +boldly into the forest. It presented one of those confusions of tall +straight stems I am so fond of, and exhaled a fresh aromatic odour +that revived my spirits. + +The cold to be sure was piercing; but setting that at defiance, we +galloped on, and issued shortly into a vast amphitheatre of lawns and +meadows, surrounded by thick woods beautifully green. Flocks of +sheep were dispersed on the slopes, whose smoothness and verdure +equal our English pastures. Steep cliffs and mountains, clothed with +beech to their very summits, guard this retired valley. The herbage, +moistened by streams which fall from the eminences, has never been +known to fade; and, whilst the chief part of Tuscany is parched by +the heats of summer, these upland meadows retain the freshness of +spring. I regretted not having visited them sooner, as autumn had +already made great havoc amongst the foliage. Showers of leaves blew +full in our faces as we rode towards the convent, placed at an +extremity of the vale, and sheltered by remote firs and chestnuts +towering one above another. + +Alighting before the entrance, two fathers came out and received us +into the peace of their retirement. We found a blazing fire, and +tables spread very comfortably before it, round which five or six +overgrown friars were lounging, who seemed, by the sleekness and rosy +hue of their countenances, not totally to have despised this mortal +existence. + +My letters of recommendation soon brought the heads of the order +about me, fair round figures, such as a Chinese would have placed in +his pagoda. I could willingly have dispensed with their attention; +yet to avoid this was scarcely within the circle of possibility. All +dinner we endured the silliest questions imaginable; but that +despatched, away flew your humble servant to the fields and forests. +The fathers made a shift to waddle after, as fast and as +complaisantly as they were able, but were soon distanced. + +Now, I found myself at liberty, and ran up a narrow path overhung by +rock, with bushy chestnuts starting from the crevices. This led me +into wild glens of beech trees, mostly decayed and covered with moss: +several were fallen. It was amongst these the holy hermit Gualbertus +had his cell. I rested a moment upon one of their huge branches, +listening to the roar of a waterfall which the wood concealed; then +springing up, I clambered over crags and fragments, guided by the +sound, and presently discovered a full stream, precipitating itself +down a cliff of pine, amongst which I remained several minutes, +watching the fallen floods; till, tired with their endless +succession, I plunged into the thickest of the grove. A beech +received me, like a second Gualbertus, in its hollow trunk. The dry +leaves chased each other down the steeps on the edge of the torrents +with hollow rustlings, whilst the solemn wave of the forests above +exactly answered the idea I had formed of Valombrosa, + + + " . . . where th' Etrurian shades +High overarch't imbowr." + + +The scene was beginning to take effect, and the genius of Milton to +move across his favourite valley, when the fathers arrived puffing +and blowing, by an easier ascent than I knew of. Pardon me, if I +cursed their intrusion, and wished them as still as Gualbertus. + +"You have missed the way," cried the youngest; "the hermitage, with +the fine picture by Andrea del Sarto, which all the English admire, +is on the opposite side of the wood: there don't you see it on the +point of the cliff?" + +"Yes, yes," said I a little peevishly; "I wonder the devil has not +pushed it down long ago; it seems to invite his kick." + +"Satan," answered the old Pagod very dryly, "is full of malice; but +whoever drinks of a spring which the Lord causeth to flow near the +hermitage is freed from his illusions." + +"Are they so?" replied I with a sanctified accent; "then prithee +conduct me thither, for I have great need of such salutary waters, +being troubled with strange fancies and imaginations, such as the +evil one himself ought to be ashamed of inspiring." + +The youngest father shook his head, as much as to say, "This is +nothing more than a heretic's whim." + +The senior--muddled, I conjecture--set forwards with greater piety, +and began some legendary tales of the kind which my soul loveth: +rare stories of caves and dens of the earth, inhabited by ancient men +familiar with spirits, and not the least discomposed by a party of +angels coming to dinner, or playing a game at miracles to pass away +the evening. He pointed to a chasm in the cliff, round which we were +winding by a spiral path, where Gualbertus used to sleep, and, +turning himself towards the west, see a long succession of saints and +martyrs sweeping athwart the sky, and gilding the clouds with far +brighter splendours than the setting sun. Here he rested till his +last hour, when the bells of the convent beneath (which till that +moment would have made dogs howl, had there been any within its +precincts) struck out such harmonious jingling that all the country +around was ravished, and began lifting up their eyes with singular +devotion, when, behold! cherubim appeared, light dawned, and birds +chirped, although it was midnight. Alas! alas! what would I not give +to witness such a spectacle, and read my prayer-book by the +effulgence of opening heaven! + +However, willing to see something at least, I crept into the +consecrated cleft, and extended myself on its rugged surface. A very +penitential couch! but commanding glorious prospects of the world +below, which lay this evening in deep blue shade; the sun looking red +and angry through misty vapours, which prevented our discovering the +Tuscan sea. + +Finding the rock as damp as might be expected, I soon shifted my +quarters, and followed the youngest father up to the Romitorio, a +snug little hermitage, with a neat chapel, and altar-piece by Andrea +del Sarto, which I should have more minutely examined in any other +place, but where the wild scenery of hanging woods and meadows, steep +hills and nodding precipices, possessed my whole attention. I just +stayed to taste the holy fountain; and then, escaping from my +conductors, ran eagerly down the path, leaping over the springs that +crossed it, and entered a lawn of the smoothest turf, grazed by +sheep, and swelling into gentle acclivities, skirted by groves of +fir, whose solemn verdure formed a contrast with its tender green. +Beyond this pleasant opening rises a second, hemmed in with copses; +and still higher, a third, whence a forest of young pines spires up +into a lofty theatre terminated by peaks, universally concealed under +a thick mantle of beech, tinged with ruddy brown. Pausing in the +midst of the lawns, and looking upward to the sweeps of wood which +surrounded me, I addressed my orisons to the genius of the place, and +prayed that I might once more return into its bosom, and be permitted +to bring you along with me, for surely such meads, such groves, were +formed for our enjoyment! + +This little rite performed, I walked on quite to the extremity of the +pastures, traversed a thicket, and found myself on the edge of +precipices, beneath whose base the whole Val d'Arno lies expanded. I +listened to distant murmurings in the plain, saw smoke rise from the +cottages, and viewed a vast tract of barren country, which evening +rendered still more desolate, bounded by the high mountain of +Radicofani. Then, turning round, I beheld the whole extent of rock +and forest, the groves of beech, and wilds above the convent, glowing +with fiery red, for the sun, making a last effort to pierce the +vapours, produced this effect; which was the more striking, as the +sky was dark, and the rest of the prospect of a melancholy blue. + +Returning slowly homeward, I marked the warm glow deserting the +eminences, and heard the bell toll sullenly to vespers. The young +boys of the seminary were moving in a body to their dark inclosure, +all dressed in black. Many of them looked pale and wan. I wished to +ask them whether the solitude of Valombrosa suited their age and +vivacity; but a tall spectre of a priest drove them along like a +herd, and presently, the gates opening, I saw them no more. A +sadness I could scarcely account for came over me. I shivered at the +bare idea of being cooped up in such a place, and seeing no other +living objects than scarecrow priests and friars; to hear every day +the same dull service and droning organ; view the same cloisters; be +led the same walks; watched, cribbed, confined, and filled with +superstitious fears. + +The night was growing chill, the winds boisterous, and in the +intervals of the gusts I had the addition of a lamentable screech-owl +to raise my spirits. Upon the whole, I was not at all concerned to +meet the fathers, who came out to show me to my room, and entertain +me with various gossipings, both sacred and profane, till supper +appeared. + +Next morning, the Padre Decano gave us chocolate in his apartment; +and afterwards led us round the convent, insisting most unmercifully +upon our viewing every cell and every dormitory. However, I was +determined to make a full stop at the organ, which is perhaps the +most harmonious I ever played upon; but placed in a dark, dingy +recess, feebly lighted by lamps, not calculated to inspire triumphant +voluntaries. The monks, who had all crowded around me when I first +began, in expectation of brisk jigs and lively overtures, soon took +themselves away upon hearing a strain ten times more sorrowful than +that to which they were accustomed. I did not lament their +departure, but played dismally on till our horses came round to the +gate. We mounted, spurred back through the grove of pines which +protect Valombrosa from intrusion, descended the steeps, and, gaining +the plains, galloped in three hours to Florence. + + + +LETTER XX + + + +SIENNA, October 26th. + +At last fears were overcome, the epidemical fever at Rome allowed to +be no longer dangerous, and myself permitted to quit Florence. The +weather was neither gay nor dismal; the country neither fine nor +ugly; and your friend full as indifferent as the scenes he looked at. +Towards afternoon, a thunderstorm gave character to the landscape, +and we entered a narrow vale enclosed by rocks, with streams running +at their base. Poplars with faded yellow leaves sprung from the +margins of the rivulets, which seemed to lose themselves in the ruins +of a castle, built in the Gothic times. Our road led through its +court and passed the ancient keep, still darkened by its turrets; a +few mud cottages are scattered about the opening where formerly the +chieftain exercised his vassals, and trained them to war. The +dungeon, once filled with miserable victims, serves only at present +to confine a few goats, which were milking before its entrance. As +we were driven along under a tottering gateway, and then through a +plain and up a hill, the breeze whispering amongst the fern which +covers it, I felt the sober autumnal cast of the evening bring back +the happy hours I passed last year at this very time, calm and +sequestered. Full of these recollections, my eyes closed of their +own accord, and were not opened for many hours; in short, till we +entered Sienna. + +October 27th.--Here my duty of course was to see the cathedral, and I +got up much earlier than I wished, in order to perform it. I wonder +our holy ancestors did not choose a mountain at once, scrape it into +shrines, and chisel it into scripture stories. It would have cost +them almost as little trouble as the building in question, which may +certainly be esteemed a masterpiece of ridiculous taste and elaborate +absurdity. The front, incrusted with alabaster, is worked into a +million of fretted arches and puzzling ornaments. There are statues +without number and relievos without end. + +The church within is all of black and white marble alternately; the +roof blue and gold, with a profusion of silken banners hanging from +it; and a cornice running above the principal arcade, composed +entirely of bustos representing the whole series of sovereign +pontiffs, from the first Bishop of Rome to Adrian the Fourth. Pope +Joan figured amongst them, between Leo the Fourth and Benedict the +Third, till the year 1600, when she was turned out, at the instance +of Clement the Eighth, to make room for Zacharias the First. + +I hardly knew which was the nave, or which the cross aisle, of this +singular edifice, so perfect is the confusion of its parts. The +pavement demands attention, being inlaid so curiously as to represent +variety of histories taken from Holy Writ, and designed in the true +style of that hobgoblin tapestry which used to bestare the halls of +our ancestors. Near the high altar stands the strangest of pulpits, +supported by polished pillars of granite, rising from lions' backs, +which serve as pedestals. In every corner of the place some chapel +or other offends or astonishes you. That, however, of the Chigi +family, it must be allowed, has infinite merit with respect to design +and execution; but it is so lost in general disorder as to want the +best part of its effect. + +From the church one enters a vaulted chamber, erected by the +Picolominis, filled with valuable missals most exquisitely +illuminated. The paintings in fresco on the walls are rather +barbarous, though executed after the designs of the mighty Raffaelle; +but then, we must remember, he had but just escaped from Pietro +Perugino. + +Not staying long in the Duomo, we left Sienna in good time; and, +after being shaken and tumbled in the worst roads that were ever +pretended to be made use of, found ourselves beneath the rough +mountains round Radicofani, about seven o'clock on a cold and dismal +evening. Up we toiled a steep craggy ascent, and reached at length +the inn upon its summit. My heart sunk when I entered a vast range +of apartments, with high black rafted roofs, once intended for a +hunting palace of the Grand Dukes, but now desolate and forlorn. The +wind having risen, every door began to shake, and every board +substituted for a window to clatter, as if the severe power who +dwells on the topmost peak of Radicofani, according to its village +mythologists, was about to visit his abode. My only spell to keep +him at a distance was kindling an enormous fire, whose charitable +gleams cheered my spirits, and gave them a quicker flow. Yet, for +some minutes, I never ceased looking, now to the right, now to the +left, up at the dark beams, and down the long passages, where the +pavement, broken up in several places, and earth newly strewn about, +seemed to indicate that something horrid was concealed below. + +A grim fraternity of cats kept whisking backwards and forwards in +these dreary avenues, which I am apt to imagine is the very identical +scene of a sabbath of witches at certain periods. Not venturing to +explore them, I fastened my door, pitched my bed opposite the hearth, +which glowed with embers, and crept under the coverlids, hardly +venturing to go to sleep, lest I should be suddenly roused from it by +the sudden glare of torches, and be more initiated than I wished into +the mysteries of the place. + +Scarce was I settled, before two or three of the brotherhood just +mentioned stalked in at a little opening under the door. I insisted +upon their moving off faster than they had entered, suspecting that +they would soon turn wizards, and was surprised, when midnight came, +to hear nothing more than their mewings, doleful enough, and echoed +by the hollow walls and arches. + + + +LETTER XXI + + + +RADICOFANI, October 28th. + +I begin to despair of magical adventures, since none happened at +Radicofani, which Nature seems wholly to have abandoned. Not a tree, +not an acre of soil, has she bestowed upon its inhabitants, who would +have more excuse for practising the gloomy art than the rest of +mankind. I was very glad to leave their black hills and stony +wilderness behind, and, entering the Papal territory, to see some +shrubs and corn-fields at a distance, near Aquapadente, which is +situated on a ledge of cliffs, mantled with chestnut copses and +tufted ilex. The country grew varied and picturesque. St. Lorenzo, +the next post, built upon a hill, overlooks the lake of Bolsena, +whose woody shores conceal many ruined buildings. We passed some of +them in a retired vale, with arches from rock to rock, and grottos +beneath half lost in thickets, from which rise craggy pinnacles +crowned by mouldering towers; just such scenery as Polemburg and +Peter de Laer introduce in their paintings. + +Beyond these truly Italian prospects, which a mellow evening tint +rendered still more interesting, a forest of oaks presents itself +upon the brows of hills, which extends almost the whole way to Monte +Fiascone. It was late before we ascended it. The whole country +seems full of inhabited caverns, that began as night drew on to shine +with fires. We saw many dark shapes glancing before them, and +perhaps a subterraneous people like the Cimmerians lurk in their +recesses. As we drew near Viterbo, the lights in the fields grew +less and less frequent; and when we entered the town, all was total +darkness. + +To-morrow I hope to pay my vows before the high altar of St. Peter, +and tread the Vatican. Why are you not here to usher me into the +imperial city: to watch my first glance of the Coliseo: and lead me +up the stairs of the Capitol? I shall rise before the sun, that I +may see him set from Monte Cavallo. + + + +LETTER XXII + + + +ROME, October 29th. + +We set out in the dark. Morning dawned over the Lago di Vico; its +waters of a deep ultramarine blue, and its surrounding forests +catching the rays of the rising sun. It was in vain I looked for the +cupola of St. Peter's upon descending the mountains beyond Viterbo. +Nothing but a sea of vapours was visible. + +At length they rolled away, and the spacious plains began to show +themselves, in which the most warlike of nations reared their seat of +empire. On the left, afar off, rises the rugged chain of Apennines, +and on the other side, a shining expanse of ocean terminates the +view. It was upon this vast surface so many illustrious actions were +performed, and I know not where a mighty people could have chosen a +grander theatre. Here was space for the march of armies, and verge +enough for encampments. Levels for martial games, and room for that +variety of roads and causeways that led from the capital to Ostia. +How many triumphant legions have trodden these pavements! how many +captive kings! What throngs of cars and chariots once glittered on +their surface! savage animals dragged from the interior of Africa; +and the ambassadors of Indian princes, followed by their exotic +train, hastening to implore the favour of the senate! + +During many ages, this eminence commanded almost every day such +illustrious scenes; but all are vanished: the splendid tumult is +passed away; silence and desolation remain. Dreary flats thinly +scattered over with ilex, and barren hillocks crowned by solitary +towers, were the only objects we perceived for several miles. Now +and then we passed a few black ill-favoured sheep feeding by the way- +side, near a ruined sepulchre, just such animals as an ancient would +have sacrificed to the Manes. Sometimes we crossed a brook, whose +ripplings were the only sounds which broke the general stillness, and +observed the shepherds' huts on its banks, propped up with broken +pedestals and marble friezes. I entered one of them, whose owner was +abroad tending his herds, and began writing upon the sand, and +murmuring a melancholy song. Perhaps the dead listened to me from +their narrow cells. The living I can answer for: they were far +enough removed. + +You will not be surprised at the dark tone of my musings in so sad a +scene, especially as the weather lowered; and you are well acquainted +how greatly I depend upon skies and sunshine. To-day I had no blue +firmament to revive my spirits; no genial gales, no aromatic plants +to irritate my nerves and give me at least a momentary animation. +Heath and furze were the sole vegetation which covers this endless +wilderness. Every slope is strewed with the relics of a happier +period; trunks of trees, shattered columns, cedar beams, helmets of +bronze, skulls and coins, are frequently dug up together. + +I cannot boast of having made any discoveries, nor of sending you any +novel intelligence. You knew before how perfectly the environs of +Rome were desolate, and how completely the Papal government contrives +to make its subjects miserable. But who knows that they were not +just as wretched in those boasted times we are so fond of +celebrating? All is doubt and conjecture in this frail existence; +and I might as well attempt proving to whom belonged the mouldering +bones which lay dispersed around me, as venture to affirm that one +age is more fortunate than another. Very likely the poor cottager, +under whose roof I reposed, is happier than the luxurious Roman upon +the remains of whose palace, perhaps, his shed is raised: and yet +that Roman flourished in the purple days of the empire, when all was +wealth and splendour, triumph and exultation. + +I could have spent the whole day by the rivulet, lost in dreams and +meditations; but recollecting my vow, I ran back to the carriage and +drove on. The road not having been mended, I believe, since the days +of the Caesars, would not allow our motions to be very precipitate. +"When you gain the summit of yonder hill, you will discover Rome," +said one of the postillions: up we dragged; no city appeared. "From +the next," cried out a second; and so on from height to height did +they amuse my expectations. I thought Rome fled before us, such was +my impatience, till at last we perceived a cluster of hills with +green pastures on their summits, inclosed by thickets and shaded by +flourishing ilex. Here and there a white house, built in the antique +style, with open porticos, that received a faint gleam of the evening +sun, just emerged from the clouds and tinting the meads below. Now +domes and towers began to discover themselves in the valley, and St. +Peter's to rise above the magnificent roofs of the Vatican. Every +step we advanced the scene extended, till, winding suddenly round the +hill, all Rome opened to our view. + +A spring flowed opportunely into a marble cistern close by the way; +two cypresses and a pine waved over it. I leaped up, poured water +upon my hands, and then, lifting them up to the sylvan Genii of the +place, implored their protection. I wished to have run wild in the +fresh fields and copses above the Vatican, there to have remained +till fauns might creep out of their concealment, and satyrs begin to +touch their flutes in the twilight, for the place looks still so +wondrous classical, that I can never persuade myself either +Constantine Attila or the Popes themselves have chased them all away. +I think I should have found some out, who would have fed me with milk +and chestnuts, have sung me a Latian ditty, and mourned the woeful +changes which have taken place, since their sacred groves were +felled, and Faunus ceased to be oracular. Who can tell but they +would have given me some mystic skin to sleep on, that I might have +looked into futurity? + +Shall I ever forget the sensations I experienced upon slowly +descending the hills, and crossing the bridge over the Tiber; when I +entered an avenue between terraces and ornamented gates of villas, +which leads to the Porto del Popolo, and beheld the square, the +domes, the obelisk, the long perspective of streets and palaces +opening beyond, all glowing with the vivid red of sunset? You can +imagine how I enjoyed my beloved tint, my favourite hour, surrounded +by such objects. You can fancy me ascending Monte Cavallo, leaning +against the pedestal which supports Bucephalus; then, spite of time +and distance, hurrying to St. Peter's in performance of my vow. + +I met the Holy Father in all his pomp returning from vespers: +trumpets flourishing, and a legion of guards drawn out upon Ponte St. +Angelo. Casting a respectful glance upon the Moles Adriani, I moved +on till the full sweep of St. Peter's colonnade opened upon me, and +fixed me, as if spell-bound, under the obelisk, lost in wonder. The +edifice appears to have been raised within the year, such is its +freshness and preservation. I could hardly take my eyes from off the +beautiful symmetry of its front, contrasted with the magnificent +though irregular courts of the Vatican towering over the colonnade, +till, the sun sinking behind the dome, I ran up the steps and entered +the grand portal, which was on the very point of being closed. + +I knew not where I was, or to what scene transported. A sacred +twilight concealing the extremities of the structure, I could not +distinguish any particular ornament, but enjoyed the effect of the +whole. No damp air or fetid exhalation offended me. The perfume of +incense was not yet entirely dissipated. No human being stirred. I +heard a door close with the sound of thunder, and thought I +distinguished some faint whisperings, but am ignorant whence they +came. Several hundred lamps twinkled round the high altar, quite +lost in the immensity of the pile. No other light disturbed my +reveries but the dying glow still visible through the western +windows. Imagine how I felt upon finding myself alone in this vast +temple at so late an hour, and think whether I had not revelations. + +It was almost eight o'clock before I issued forth, and, pausing a few +minutes under the porticos, listened to the rush of the fountains: +then traversing half the town, I believe, in my way to the Villa +Medici, under which I am lodged, fell into a profound repose, which +my zeal and exercise may be allowed, I think, to have merited. + +October 30th.--It was a clear morning; I mounted up to the roof of +the house, and sat under a set of open pavilions, surveying the vast +group of stately buildings below; then repaired immediately after +breakfast to St. Peter's, which even exceeded the height of my +expectations. I could hardly quit it. I wish his Holiness would +allow me to erect a little tabernacle under the dome. I should +desire no other prospect during the winter; no other sky than the +vast arches glowing with golden ornaments, so lofty as to lose all +glitter or gaudiness. But I cannot say I should be perfectly +contented, unless I could obtain another pavilion for you. Thus +established, we would take our evening walks on the field of marble; +for is not the pavement vast enough to excuse the extravagance of the +appellation? Sometimes, instead of climbing a mountain, we should +ascend the cupola, and look down on our little encampment below. At +night I should wish for a constellation of lamps dispersed about in +clusters, and so contrived as to diffuse a mild and equal light for +us to read or draw by. Music should not be wanting: one day to +breathe in the subterraneous chapels, another to mount high into the +dome. + +The doors should be closed, and not a mortal admitted. No priests, +no cardinals: God forbid! We should have all the space to +ourselves, and to such creatures, too, as resemble us. + +The windows I should shade with transparent curtains of yellow silk, +to admit the glow of perpetual summer. Lanterns, as many as you +please, of all forms and sizes; they would remind us of China, and, +depending from the roof of the palace, bring before us that of the +Emperor Ki, which was twice as large as St. Peter's (if we may credit +the grand annals), and lighted alone by tapers, for his Imperial +Majesty, being tired of the sun, would absolutely have a new +firmament of his own creation, and an artificial day. Was it not a +rare fantastic idea? For my part, I should like of all things to +immure myself after his example, with those I love; forget the +divisions of time, have a moon at command, and a theatrical sun to +rise and set at pleasure. + +I was so absorbed in my imaginary palace, and exhausted with +contriving plans for its embellishment, as to have no spirits left +for the Pantheon, which I visited late in the evening, and entered +with a reverence approaching to superstition. The whiteness of the +dome offending me, I slunk into one of the recesses, closed my eyes, +transported myself into antiquity; then opened them again, tried to +persuade myself the pagan gods were in their niches, and the saints +out of the question; was vexed at coming to my senses, and finding +them all there, St. Andrew with his cross, and St. Agnes with her +lamb, etc., etc. Then I paced disconsolately into the portico, which +shows the name of Agrippa on its pediment. I leaned a minute against +a Corinthian column; I lamented that no pontiff arrived with victims +and aruspices, of whom I might inquire, what, in the name of birds +and garbage, put me so terribly out of humour! for you must know I +was very near being disappointed, and began to think Piranesi and +Paolo Panini had been a great deal too colossal in their view of this +venerable structure. I left the column, walked to the centre of the +temple, and, folding my arms, stood as fixed as a statue. Some +architects have celebrated the effect of light from the opening +above, and pretended it to be distributed around so as to give those +who walk beneath the appearance of mystic substances beaming with +radiance. Mighty fine, if that were the case! I appeared, to be +sure, a luminous figure, and never stood I more in need of something +to distinguish me, being forlorn and dismal in the supreme degree. + +But though it is not so immense as I had expected, yet a certain +venerable air, an awful gloom, breathed inspiration, though of the +sorrowful kind. + +I had expected a heap of Venetian letters, but could not discover +one. I had received no intelligence from England this many a tedious +day; and for aught I can tell to the contrary, you may have been dead +these three weeks. I think I shall wander soon in the Catacombs, +which I am half inclined to imagine communicate with the lower world; +and perhaps I may find some letter there from you, lying upon a +broken sarcophagus, dated from the realms of Night, and giving an +account of your descent into her bosom. Yet, I pray continually, +notwithstanding my curiosity to learn what passes in the dark regions +beyond the tomb, that you will condescend to remain a few years +longer on our planet; for what would become of me, should I lose +sight of you for ever? Stay, therefore, as long as you can, and let +us have the delight of dozing a little more of this poor existence +away together, and steeping ourselves in pleasant dreams. + +October 31st.--I absolutely will have no antiquary to go prating from +fragment to fragment, and tell me, that were I to stay five years at +Rome, I should not see half it contained. The thought alone, of so +much to look at, is quite distracting, and makes me resolve to view +nothing at all in a scientific way; but straggle and wander about, +just as the spirit chooses. This evening, it led me to the Coliseo, +and excited a vehement desire in me to break down and pulverize the +whole circle of saints' nests and chapels, which disgrace the arena. +You recollect, I dare say, the vile effect of this holy trumpery, and +would join with all your heart in kicking it into the Tiber. A few +lazy abbots were at their devotions before them; such as would have +made a lion's mouth water; fatter, I dare say, than any saint in the +whole martyrology, and ten times more tantalizing. I looked first, +at the dens where wild beasts used to be kept, to divert the +magnanimous people of Rome with devastation and murder; then, at the +tame cattle before the altars. Heavens! thought I to myself, how +times are changed! Could ever Vespasian have imagined his +amphitheatre would have been thus inhabited? I passed on, making +these reflections, to a dark arcade, overgrown with ilex. In the +openings which time and violence have made, a distant grove of +cypresses discover themselves; springing from heaps of mouldering +ruins, relieved by a clear transparent sky, strewed with a few red +clouds. This was the sort of prospect I desired, and I sat down on a +shattered frieze to enjoy it. Many stories of ancient Rome thronged +into my mind as I mused; triumphal scenes, but tempered by sadness, +and the awful thoughts of their being all passed away. It would be +in vain to recapitulate the ideas which chased one another along. +Think where I sat, and you may easily conjecture the series. When +the procession was fleeted by (for I not only thought, but seemed to +see warriors moving amongst the cypresses, and consuls returning from +Parthian expeditions, loaded with strange spoils, and received with +the acclamations of millions upon entering the theatre), I arose, +crossed the arena, paced several times round and round, looked up to +arcade rising above arcade, and admiring the stately height and +masses of the structure, considered it in various points of view, and +felt, as if I never should be satisfied with gazing, hour after hour, +and day after day. Next, directing my steps to the arch of +Constantine, I surveyed the groups of ruins which surrounded me. The +cool breeze of the evening played in the beds of canes and osiers +which flourished under the walls of the Coliseo: a cloud of birds +were upon the wing to regain their haunts in its crevices; and, +except the sound of their flight, all was silent; for happily no +carriages were rattling along. I observed the palace and obelisk of +St. John of Lateran, at a distance; but it was too late to take a +nearer survey; so, returning leisurely home, I traversed the Campo +Vaccino, and leaned a moment against one of the columns which +supported the temple of Jupiter Stator. Some women were fetching +water from the fountain hard by, whilst another group had kindled a +fire under the shrubs and twisted fig-trees, which cover the Palatine +Hill. Innumerable vaults and arches peep out of the vegetation. It +was upon these, in all probability, the splendid palace of the +Caesars was raised. Confused fragments of marble, and walls of lofty +terraces, are the sole traces of its ancient magnificence. A +wretched rabble were roasting their chestnuts, on the very spot, +perhaps, where Domitian convened a senate, to harangue upon the +delicacies of his entertainment. The light of the flame cast upon +the figures around it, and the mixture of tottering wall with foliage +impending above their heads, formed a striking picture, which I +stayed contemplating from my pillar, till the fire went out, the +assembly dispersed, and none remained but a withered hag, raking the +embers, and muttering to herself. I thought also it was high time to +retire, lest the unwholesome mists, which were streaming from the +opening before the Coliseo, might make me repent my stay. Whether +they had already taken effect, or no, I will not absolutely +determine; but something or other had grievously disordered me. A +few centuries ago I should have taxed the old hag with my headache, +and have attributed the uncommon oppression I experienced to her +baleful power. Hastening to my hotel, I mounted into the open +portico upon its summit, nearly upon a level with the Villa Medici, +and sat, several hours, with my arms folded in one another, listening +to the distant rumours of the town. It had been a fine moment to +have bestrode one of the winds which piped around me, offering, no +doubt, some compact from Lucifer. + +November 1st.--Though you find I am not yet snatched away from the +earth, according to my last night's bodings, I was far too restless +and dispirited to deliver my recommendatory letters. St. Carlos, a +mighty day of gala at Naples, was an excellent excuse for leaving +Rome, and indulging my roving disposition. After spending my morning +at St. Peter's, we set off about four o'clock, and drove by the +Coliseo and a Capuchin convent, whose monks were all busied in +preparing the skeletons of their order, to figure by torchlight in +the evening. St. John's of Lateran astonished me. I could not help +walking several times round the obelisk, and admiring the noble open +space in which the palace is erected, and the extensive scene of +towers and aqueducts discovered from the platform in front. + +We went out at the Porta Appia, and began to perceive the plains +which surround the city opening on every side. Long reaches of walls +and arches, but seldom interrupted, stretch across them. Sometimes, +indeed, a withered pine, lifting itself up to the mercy of every +blast that sweeps the champagne, breaks their uniformity. Between +the aqueducts to the left, nothing but wastes of fern, or tracts of +ploughed lands, dark and desolate, are visible, the corn not being +yet sprung up. On the right, several groups of ruined fanes and +sepulchres diversify the levels, with here and there a garden or +woody inclosure. Such objects are scattered over the landscape, that +towards the horizon bulges into gentle ascents, and, rising by +degrees, swells at length into a chain of mountains, which received +the pale gleams of the sun, setting in watery clouds. + +By this uncertain light we discovered the white buildings of Albano, +sprinkled about the steeps. We had not many moments to contemplate +them, for it was night when we passed the Torre di mezza via, and +began breathing a close pestilential vapour. Half suffocated, and +recollecting a variety of terrifying tales about the malaria, we +advanced, not without fear, to Veletri, and hardly ventured to fall +asleep when arrived there. + +November 2nd.--I arose at daybreak, and forgetting fevers and +mortalities, ran into a level meadow without the town, whilst the +horses were putting to the carriage. Why should I calumniate the +air? it seemed purer and more transparent than any I had before +inhaled. The mountains were covered with thin mists, and the morning +star sparkled above their summits. Birds were twittering amongst +some sheds and bushes, which border the sides of the road. A +chestnut hung over it, against which I leaned till the chaise came +up. Being perfectly alone, and not discovering any trace of the +neighbouring city, I fancied myself existing in the ancient days of +Hesperia, and hoped to meet Picus in his woods before the evening. +But, instead of those shrill clamours which used to echo through the +thickets when Pan joined with mortals in the chase, I heard the +rumbling of our carriage, and the curses of its postillions. +Mounting a horse, I flew before them, and seemed to catch inspiration +from the breezes. Now I turned my eyes to the ridge of precipices, +in whose grots and caverns Saturn and his people passed their life; +then to the distant ocean. Afar off rose the cliffs, so famous for +Circe's incantations, and the whole line of coast, which was once +covered with her forests. + +Whilst I was advancing with full speed, the sunbeams began to shoot +athwart the mountains, the plains to light up by degrees, and their +shrubberies of myrtle to glisten with dewdrops. The sea brightened, +and the Circean rock soon glowed with purple. I never felt my +spirits so exhilarated, and they could not have flowed with more +vivacity, even had I tasted the cup which Helen gave Telemachus. You +will think me gone wild when I tell you I was, in a manner, drunk +with the dews of the morning, and so enraptured with the prospects +which lay before me as to address them in verse, and compose charms +to dispel the enchantments of Circe. All day were we approaching her +rock; towards evening Terracina appeared before us, in a bold +romantic site; house above house, and turret looking over turret, on +the steeps of a mountain, inclosed with mouldering walls, and crowned +by the ruined terraces of a delightful palace: one of those, +perhaps, which the luxurious Romans inhabited during the summer, when +so free and lofty an exposition (the sea below, with its gales and +murmurs) must have been exquisitely agreeable. Groves of orange and +citron hang on the declivity, rough with the Indian fig, whose bright +red flowers, illuminated by the sun, had a magic splendour. A palm- +tree, growing on the highest crag, adds not a little to its singular +appearance. Being the largest I had ever seen, and clustered with +fruit, I climbed up the rocks to take a close survey of it, and found +a spring trickling near its fount, bordered by fresh herbage. On +this I stretched myself on the very edge of the precipice, and +looking down upon the beach, and glassy plains of ocean, exclaimed +with Martial: + + +"O nemua! O fentes! aolidumque madentis +Littus, et acquorcis splendidus Anxur aquis!" + + +Glancing my eyes athwart the sea, I fixed them on the Circean +promontory, which lies right opposite to Terracina, joined to the +continent by a very narrow strip of land, and appearing like an +island. The roar of the waves lashing the base of the precipices, +might still be thought the howl of savage monsters; but where are +those woods which shaded the dome of the goddess? Scarce a tree +appears. A few thickets, and but a few, are the sole remains of this +once impenetrable vegetation; yet even these I longed to visit, such +was my predilection for the spot. + +Who knows but Circe might have led me to some other palace, in a more +secret and retired vale, where she dwells remote from modern +mariners, and the present inhabitants of her environs; universally +changed to swine for these many ages? Their metamorphoses being so +thoroughly established as to leave no further pretence for her +operations, I can imagine her given up to solitude, and the +consciousness of her potent influence. Notwithstanding the risks of +the adventure, I wished to have attempted it, and seen whether she +would have allowed me, as night came on, to warm myself by her cedar +fire, and hear her captivating song. Perhaps, had the goddess been +propitious, I might have culled some herbs of wondrous efficacy. You +recollect, I dare say, how renowned the cliff was for them, and +remember that Circe's attendants, deeply skilled, like their +mistress, in pharmacy, were continually gathering plants in the woods +and wilds which enriched her abode. It was thus the companions of +Ulysses found them employed, when, entering her palace, they unwarily +drank the beverage she offered. Ovid has told this story in a +masterly manner, and formed a lively picture of the magic dome, with +the occupations of its inhabitants. We see them judiciously +arranging their plants, whilst Circe directs and points out, with the +nicest discernment, the simple and compound virtues of every flower. + +Descending the cliff, and pursuing our route to Mola along the shore, +by a grand road formed on the ruins of the Appian, we drove under an +enormous perpendicular rock, standing detached, like a watch-tower, +and cut into arsenals and magazines. Day closed just as we got +beyond it, and a new moon gleamed faintly on the waters. We saw +fires afar off in the bay, some twinkling on the coast, others upon +the waves, and heard the murmur of voices; for the night was still +and solemn, like that of Cajetas's funeral. I looked anxiously on a +sea, where the heroes of the Odyssey and AEneid had sailed in search +of fate and empire, then closed my eyes, and dreamed of those +illustrious wanderers. + +Nine struck when we arrived at Mola di Cajeta. The boats were just +coming in (whose lights we had seen out upon the main), and brought +such fish as Neptune, I dare say, would have grudged AEneas and +Ulysses. + +November 3rd.--The morning was soft, but hazy. I walked in a grove +of oranges, white with blossoms, and at. the same time glowing with +fruit, some of which I obtained leave to gather. The spot sloped +pleasantly towards the sea, and here I amused myself with my +agreeable occupation till the horses were ready, then set off on the +Appian, between hedges of myrtle and aloes, catching fresh gales from +the sea as I flew along, and breathing the perfume of an aromatic +vegetation, which covers the fields on the shore. We observed +variety of towns, with battlemented walls and ancient turrets, +crowning the pinnacles of rocky steeps, surrounded by wilds, and rude +uncultivated mountains. The Liris, now Garigliano, winds its +peaceful course through wide extensive meadows, scattered over with +the remains of aqueducts, and waters the base of the rocks I have +just mentioned. Such a prospect could not fail of bringing Virgil's +panegyric of Italy full in my mind: + + +"Tot congesta manu praeruptis oppida saxis +Fluminaque antiquos suhterlabentia muros." + + +As soon as we arrived in sight of Capua, the sky darkened, clouds +covered the horizon, and presently poured down such deluges of rain +as floated the whole country. The gloom was general; Vesuvius +disappeared just after we had the pleasure of discovering it; +lightning began to flash with dreadful rapidity, and people to run +frightened to their houses. At four o'clock darkness universally +prevailed, except when a livid glare of lightning presented momentary +glimpses of the bay and mountains. We lighted torches, and forded +several torrents almost at the hazard of our lives. The fields round +Naples were filled with herds, lowing most piteously, and yet not +half so much scared as their masters, who ran about cursing and +swearing like Indians during the eclipse of the moon. I knew +Vesuvius had often put their courage to proof, but little thought of +an inundation occasioning such commotions. + +For three hours the storm increased in violence, and instead of +entering Naples on a calm evening, and viewing its delightful shores +by moonlight--instead of finding the squares and terraces thronged +with people and animated by music, we advanced with fear and terror +through dark streets totally deserted, every creature being shut up +in their houses, and we heard nothing but driving rain, rushing +torrents, and the fall of fragments beaten down by their violence. +Our inn, like every other habitation, was in great disorder, and we +waited a long while before we could settle in our apartments with any +comfort. All night the waves roared round the rocky foundations of a +fortress beneath my windows, and the lightning played clear in my +eyes. I could not sleep, and was full as disturbed as the elements. + +November 4th.--Peace was restored to nature in the morning, but every +mouth was full of the dreadful accidents which had happened in the +night. The sky was cloudless when I awoke, and such was the +transparence of the atmosphere that I could clearly discern the +rocks, and even some white buildings on the island of Caprea, though +at the distance of several miles. A large window fronts my bed, and +its casements being thrown open, gives me a vast prospect of ocean, +uninterrupted except by the peaks of Caprea and the Cape of Sorento. +I lay half an hour gazing on the smooth level waters, and listening +to the confused voices of the fishermen, passing and repassing in +light skiffs, which came and disappeared in an instant. + +Running to the balcony the moment my eyes were fairly open (for till +then I saw objects, I know not how, as one does in dreams), I leaned +over its rails, and viewed Vesuvius rising distinct into the blue +ether, with all that world of gardens and casinos which are scattered +about its base; then looked down into the street, deep below, +thronged with people in holiday garments, and carriages, and soldiers +in full parade. The woody, variegated shore of Posilipo next drew my +attention. It was on those very rocks, under those tall pines, +Sannazaro was wont to sit by moonlight, or at peep of dawn, holding +converse with the Nereids. 'Tis there he still sleeps; and I wished +to have gone immediately and strewed coral over his tomb, but I was +obliged to check my impatience, and hurry to the palace in form and +gala. + +A courtly mob had got thither upon the same errand, daubed over with +lace and most notably be-periwigged. Nothing but--bows and +salutations were going forward on the staircase, one of the largest I +ever beheld, and which a multitude of prelates and friars were +ascending in all the pomp of awkwardness. I jostled along to the +presence chamber, where his Majesty was dining alone in a circular +inclosure of fine clothes and smirking faces. The moment he had +finished, twenty long necks were poked forth, and it was a glorious +struggle amongst some of the most decorated who first should kiss his +hand. Doing so was the great business of the day, and everybody +pressed forward to the best of their abilities. His Majesty seemed +to eye nothing but the end of his nose, which is doubtless a capital +object. + +Though people have imagined him a weak monarch, I beg leave to differ +in opinion, since he has the boldness to prolong his childhood and be +happy, in spite of years and conviction. Give him a boar to stab, +and a pigeon to shoot at, a battledore or an angling rod, and he is +better contented than Solomon in all his glory, and will never +discover, like that sapient sovereign, that all is vanity and +vexation of spirit. + +His courtiers in general have rather a barbaric appearance, and +differ little in the character of their physiognomies from the most +savage nations. I should have taken them for Calmucks or Samoieds, +had it not been for their dresses and European finery. + +You may suppose I was not sorry, after my presentation was over, to +return to Sir W.'s and hear Lady H. play, whose music breathes the +most pastoral Sicilian ideas, and transports me to green meads on the +sea-coast, where I wander with Theocritus. + +The evening was passing swiftly away in this delightful excursion of +fancy, and I had almost forgotten there was a grand illumination at +the theatre of St. Carlo. After traversing a number of dark streets, +we suddenly entered this enormous edifice, whose six rows of boxes +blazed with tapers. I never beheld such lofty walls of light, nor so +pompous a decoration as covered the stage. Marchesi was singing in +the midst of all these splendours some of the poorest music +imaginable, with the clearest and most triumphant voice, perhaps, in +the universe. + +It was some time before I could look to any purpose around me, or +discover what animals inhabited this glittering world: such was its +size and glare. At last I perceived vast numbers of ugly beings, in +gold and silver raiment, peeping out of their boxes. The court being +present, a tolerable silence was maintained, but the moment his +Majesty withdrew (which great event took place at the beginning of +the second act) every tongue broke loose, and nothing but buzz and +hubbub filled up the rest of the entertainment. + +The last ballet, formed upon the old story of "Le Festin de Pierre," +had wonderful effect, and terminated in the most striking perspective +of the infernal region. Picq danced incomparably, and Signora Rossi +led the Fandango, with a grace and activity that pleased me beyond +idea. Music was never more rapturous than that which accompanies +this dance. It quite enchanted me, and I longed to have sprung upon +the stage. The cadence is so strongly marked by the castanets, that +it is almost impossible to be out of time; and the rapidity of steps +and varied movements scarcely allows a moment to think of being +tired. I should imagine the eternal dance, with which certain tribes +of American savages think they are to be rewarded in a future +existence, might be formed somewhat on this model. Indeed the +Fandango arrived in Spain with the conquerors of the other +hemisphere, and is far too lively and extatic to be of European +original. + +November 6th--Till to-day we have had nothing but rains; the sea +covered with mists, and Caprea invisible. Would you believe it? I +have not yet been able to mount to St. Elmo and the Capo di Monte, in +order to take a general view of the town. + +At length a bright gleam of sunshine roused me from my slumbers, and +summoned me to the broad terrace of Chiaja, directly above the waters +and commanding the whole coast of Posilipo. Insensibly I drew +towards it, and (you know the pace I run when out upon discoveries) +soon reached the entrance of the grotto, which lay in dark shades, +whilst the crags that lower over it were brightly illumined. Shrubs +and vines grow luxuriantly in the crevices of the rock; and their +fresh yellow colours, variegated with ivy, have a beautiful effect. +To the right a grove of pines sprung from the highest pinnacles: on +the left, bay and chestnut conceal the tomb of Virgil, placed on the +summit of a cliff which impends over the opening of the grotto, and +is fringed with a florid vegetation. Beneath are several wide +apertures hollowed in the solid stone, which lead to caverns sixty or +seventy feet in depth, where a number of peasants, who were employed +in quarrying, made such a noise with their tools and their voices as +almost inclined me to wish the Cimmerians would start from their +subterraneous habitations, and sacrifice these profane to the Manes. + +Walking out of the sunshine, I seated myself on a loose stone +immediately beneath the first gloomy arch of the grotto, and looking +down the vast and solemn perspective, terminated by a speck of grey +uncertain light, venerated a work which some old chroniclers have +imagined as ancient as the Trojan war. 'Twas here the mysterious +race I have just mentioned performed their infernal rites, and it was +this excavation perhaps which led to their abode. + +The Neapolitans attribute a more modern, though full as problematical +an origin to their famous cavern, and most piously believe it to have +been formed by the enchantments of Virgil, who, as Mr. Addison very +justly observes, is better known at Naples in his magical character, +than as the author of the AEneid. This strange infatuation most +probably arose from the vicinity of the tomb, in which his ashes are +supposed to have been deposited; and which, according to popular +tradition, was guarded by those very spirits who assisted in +constructing the cave. But whatever may have given rise to these +ideas, certain it is they were not confined to the lower ranks alone. +King Robert, {240} a wise though far from poetical monarch, conducted +his friend Petrarch with great solemnity to the spot; and, pointing +to the entrance of the grotto, very gravely asked him, whether he did +not adopt the general belief, and conclude this stupendous passage +derived its origin from Virgil's powerful incantations? The answer, +I think, may easily be conjectured. + +When I had sat for some time, contemplating this dusky avenue, and +trying to persuade myself that it was hewn by the Cimmerians, I +retreated without proceeding any farther, and followed a narrow path +which led me, after some windings and turnings, along the brink of +the precipice, across a vineyard, to that retired nook of the rocks +which shelters Virgil's tomb, most venerably mossed over, and more +than half concealed by bushes and vegetation. Drops of dew were +distilling from the niches of the little chamber, which once +contained his urn, and heaps of withered leaves had gathered on the +pavement. Amongst these I crept to eat some grapes and biscuits, +having duly scattered a few crumbs as a sort of offering to the +invisible guardians of the place. I believe they were sensible of my +piety, and, as a reward, kept vagabonds and clowns away. + +The one who conducted me remained aloof at awful distance, whilst I +sat commercing with the manes of my beloved poet, or straggling about +the shrubbery which hangs directly above the mouth of the grot. I +wonder I did not visit the eternal shades sooner that I expected, for +no squirrel ever skipped from bough to bough more venturously. One +instant I climbed up the branches of a chestnut, and sat almost on +its extremity, my feet impending over the chasm below; another I +boldly advanced to the edge of the rock, and saw crowds of people and +carriages, diminished by distance, issuing from the bosom of the +mountain, and disappearing almost as soon as discovered in the +windings of its road. Having clambered high above the cavern, I +hazarded my neck on the top of one of the pines, and looked +contemptuously down on the race of pigmies that were so busily moving +to and fro. The sun was fiercer than I could have wished, but the +sea-breezes fanned me in my aerial situation, which commanded the +grand sweep of the bay, varied by convents, palaces, and gardens, +mixed with huge masses of rock and crowned by the stately buildings +of the Carthusians and fortress of St. Elmo. Add a glittering blue +sea to this perspective, with Caprea rising from its bosom, and +Vesuvius breathing forth a white column of smoke into the ether, and +you will then have a scene upon which I gazed with delight, for more +than an hour, almost forgetting that I was perched upon the head of a +pine, with nothing but a frail branch to uphold me. However, I +descended alive, as Virgil's genii, I am resolved to believe, were my +protectors. + + + +LETTER XXIII + + + +November 8th.--This morning I awoke in the glow of sunshine; the air +blew fresh and fragrant; never did I feel more elastic and enlivened. +A brisker flow of spirits than I had for many a day experienced, +animated me with a desire of rambling about the shore of Baii, and +creeping into caverns and subterraneous chambers. Off I set along +Chiaja, and up strange paths which impend over the grotto of +Posilipo, amongst the thickets mentioned a letter or two ago; for in +my present lively humour, I disdained ordinary roads, and would take +paths and ways of my own. A society of kids did not understand what +I meant by intruding upon their precipices; and scrambling away, +scattered sand and fragments upon the good people that were trudging +along the pavement below. + +I went on from pine to pine, and thicket to thicket, upon the brink +of rapid declivities. My conductor, a shrewd savage, whom Sir +William had recommended to me, cheered our route with stories that +had passed in the neighbourhood, and traditions about the grot over +which we were travelling. I wish you had been of the party, and sat +down by us on little smooth spots of sward, where I reclined, +scarcely knowing which way caprice was leading me. My mind was full +of the tales of the place, and glowed with a vehement desire of +exploring the world beyond the grot. I longed to ascend the +promontory of Misenus, and follow the same dusky route down which the +Sibyl conducted AEneas. + +With these dispositions I proceeded; and soon the cliffs and copses +opened to views of the Baian bay, with the little isles of Niscita +and Lazaretto lifting themselves out of the waters. Procita and +Ischia appeared at a distance, invested with that purple bloom so +inexpressibly beautiful, and peculiar to this fortunate climate. I +hailed the prospect and blessed the transparent air that gave me life +and vigour to run down the rocks, and hie as fast as my savage across +the plain to Puzzoli. There we took bark and rowed out into the blue +ocean, by the remains of a sturdy mole: many such, I imagine, +adorned the bay in Roman ages crowned by vast lengths of slender +pillars; pavilions at their extremities, and taper cypresses spiring +above their balustrades: this character of villa occurs very +frequently in the paintings of Herculaneum. + +We had soon crossed the bay, and landing on a bushy coast, near some +fragments of a temple which they say was raised to Hercules, advanced +into the country by narrow tracks covered with moss and strewed with +shining pebbles; to the right and left, broad masses of luxuriant +foliage, chestnut, bay, and ilex, that shelter the ruins of +columbariums and sepulchral chambers, where the dead sleep snug +amongst rampant herbage. The region was still, save when a cock crew +from the hamlets, which, as well as the tombs, are almost concealed +by thickets. No parties of smart Englishmen and connoisseurs were +about. I had all the land to myself, and mounted its steeps and +penetrated into its recesses, with the importance of a discoverer. +What a variety of narrow paths, between banks and shades, did I +wildly follow! my savage laughing loud at my odd gestures and useless +activity. He wondered I did not scrape the ground for medals, and +pocket little bits of plaster, like other plausible young travellers +that had gone before me. + +After ascending some time, I followed him into the Piscina Mirabilis, +the wondrous reservoir which Nero constructed to supply his fleet, +when anchored in the neighbouring bay. 'Tis a grand labyrinth of +solid vaults and pillars, as you well know, but you cannot conceive +the partial gleams of sunshine which played on the arches, nor the +variety of roots and ivies trailing from the cove. A noise of +trickling waters prevailed, that had almost lulled me to sleep as I +rested myself on the celandine which carpets the floor; but curiosity +urging me forward, I gained the upper air; walked amongst woods a few +minutes, and then into grots and dismal excavations (prisons they +call them), which began to weary me. + +After having gone up and down in this manner for some time, we at +last reached an eminence that looked over the Mare Morto, and Elysian +fields trembling with poplars. The Dead Lake, a faithful emblem of +eternal tranquillity, looked deep and solemn. A few peasants were +passing along its margin, their shadows reflected on the water: all +was serene and peaceful. Turning from the lake I espied a rock at +about a league distant, whose summit was clad with verdure, and +finding this to be the promontory of Misenus, I immediately set my +face to that quarter. + +We passed several dirty villages, inhabited by an ill-favoured +generation, infamous for depredations and murders. Their gardens, +however, discover some marks of industry; the fields are separated by +neat hedges of cane, and corn seemed to flourish in the inclosures. + +I walked on with slowness and deliberation, musing at every step, and +stopping ever and anon to rest myself by springs and tufted bay- +trees; when insensibly we began to leave the cultivated lands behind +us, and to lose ourselves in shady wilds, which, to all appearance, +no mortal had ever trodden. Here were no paths, no enclosures; a +primeval rudeness characterized the whole scene, - + + + "Juvat arva videre, +Non rastris, hominum non ulli obnoxia curae." + + +The idea of going almost out of the world, soothed the tone of mind +into which a variety of affecting recollections had thrown me. I +formed conjectures about the promontory to which we were tending; and +when I cast my eyes around the savage landscape, transported myself +four thousand years into antiquity, and half persuaded myself I was +one of AEneas's companions. After forcing our way about a mile +through glades of shrubs and briars, we entered a verdant opening at +the base of the cliff which takes its name from Misenus. The poets +of the Augustan age would have celebrated such a meadow with the +warmest raptures; they would have discovered a nymph in every flower, +and detected a dryad under every tree. Doubtless imagination never +formed a lovelier prospect. Here were clear streams and grassy +hillocks, leafy shrubs and cypresses spiring out of their bosom, - + + +"Et circum irriguo surgebant lilia prato +Candida purpureis mista papaveribus." + + +But as it is not the lot of human animals to be contented, instead of +reposing in the vale, I scaled the rock, and was three parts +dissolved in attaining its summit,--a flat spot covered with herbage, +where I lay contemplating the ocean, and fanned by its breezes. The +sun darted upon my head; I wished to avoid its immediate influence: +no tree was near. Deep below lay the pleasant valley: 'twas a long +way to descend. Looking round and round, I spied something like a +hut, under a crag on the edge of a dark fissure. Might I avail +myself of its covert? My conductor answered in the affirmative, and +added that it was inhabited by a good old woman, who never refused a +cup of milk, or slice of bread, to refresh a weary traveller. + +Thirst and fatigue urged me speedily down an intervening slope of +stunted myrtle. Though oppressed with heat, I could not help +deviating a few steps from the direct path to notice the uncouth +rocks which rose frowning on every quarter. Above the hut, their +appearance was truly formidable; dark ivy crept among the crevices, +and dwarf aloes with sharp spines, such as Lucifer himself might be +supposed to have sown. Indeed, I knew not whether I was not +approaching some gate that leads to his abode, as I drew near a gulph +(the fissure lately mentioned) and heard the hollow gusts which were +imprisoned below. The savage, my guide, shuddered as he passed by to +apprise the old woman of my coming. I felt strangely, and stared +around me, and but half liked my situation. To say truth, I wished +myself away, and heartily regretted the green vale. + +In the midst of my doubts, forth tottered the old woman. "You are +welcome," said she, in a feeble voice, but a better dialect than I +had heard in the neighbourhood. Her look was more humane, and she +seemed of a superior race to the inhabitants of the surrounding +valleys. My savage treated her with peculiar deference. She had +just given him some bread, with which he retired to a respectful +distance, bowing to the earth. I caught the mode, and was very +obsequious, thinking myself on the point of experiencing a witch's +influence, and gaining, perhaps, some insight into the volume of +futurity. She smiled at my agitation, and kept beckoning me into the +cottage. + +"Now," thought I to myself, "I am upon the verge of an adventure. O +Quixote! O Sylvio di Rosalva! how would ye have strutted in such a +situation! What fair Infantas would ye not have expected to behold, +condemned to spinning wheels, and solitude?" I, alas! saw nothing +but clay walls, a straw bed, some glazed earthen bowls, and a wooden +crucifix. My shoes were loaded with sand: this my hostess +perceived, and immediately kindling a fire in an inner part of the +hovel, brought out some warm water to refresh my feet, and set some +milk and chestnuts before me. This patriarchal politeness was by no +means indifferent after my tiresome ramble. I sat down opposite to +the door which fronted the unfathomable gulph; beyond appeared the +sea, of a deep cerulean, foaming with waves. The sky also was +darkening apace with storms. Sadness came over me like a cloud, and +I looked up to the old woman for consolation. + +"And you too are sorrowful, young stranger," said she, "that come +from the gay world! How must I feel, who pass year after year in +these lonely mountains?" I answered that the weather affected me, +and my spirits were exhausted by the walk. + +All the while I spoke she looked at me with such a melancholy +earnestness that I asked the cause, and began again to imagine myself +in some fatal habitation, + + +"Where more is meant than meets the ear." + + +Said she, "Your features are wonderfully like those of an unfortunate +young person, who, in this retirement . . . " The tears began to +fall as she pronounced these words; she seemed older than before, and +bent to the ground with sorrow. My curiosity was fired. "Tell me," +continued I, "what you mean? who was this youth for whom you are so +interested? and why did he seclude himself in this wild region? Your +kindness might no doubt alleviate, in some measure, the horrors of +the place; but may God defend me from passing the night near such a +gulph! I would not trust myself in a despairing moment." + +"It is," said she, "a place of horrors. I tremble to relate what has +happened on this very spot; but your manner interests me, and though +I am little given to narrations, for once I will unlock my lips +concerning the secrets of yonder fatal chasm. + +"I was born in a distant part of Italy, and have known better days. +In my youth fortune smiled upon my family, but in a few years they +withered away; no matter by what accident. I am not going, however, +to talk of myself. Have patience a few moments! A series of +unfortunate events reduced me to indigence, and drove me to this +desert, where, from rearing goats and making their milk into cheese, +by a different method than is common in the Neapolitan State, I have, +for about thirty years, prolonged a sorrowful existence. My silent +grief and constant retirement had made me appear to some a saint, and +to others a sorceress. The slight knowledge I have of plants has +been exaggerated, and, some years back, the hours I gave up to +prayer, and the recollection of former friends, lost to me for ever! +were cruelly intruded upon by the idle and the ignorant. But soon I +sank into obscurity; my little recipes were disregarded, and you are +the first stranger who, for these twelve months past, has visited my +abode. Ah, would to God its solitude had ever remained inviolate! + +"It is now three-and-twenty years," and she looked upon some +characters cut on the planks of the cottage, "since I was sitting by +moonlight, under that cliff you view to the right, my eyes fixed on +the ocean, my mind lost in the memory of my misfortunes, when I heard +a step, and starting up, a figure stood before me. It was a young +man, in a rich habit, with streaming hair, and looks that bespoke the +utmost terror. I knew not what to think of this sudden apparition. +'Mother,' said he with faltering accents, 'let me rest under your +roof; and deliver me not up to those who thirst after my blood. Take +this gold; take all, all!' + +"Surprise held me speechless; the purse fell to the ground; the youth +stared wildly on every side: I heard many voices beyond the rocks; +the wind bore them distinctly, but presently they died away. I took +courage, and assured the youth my cot should shelter him. 'Oh! thank +you, thank you!' answered he, and pressed my hand. He shared my +scanty provision. + +"Overcome with toil (for I had worked hard in the day), sleep closed +my eyes for a short interval. When I awoke the moon was set, but I +heard my unhappy guest sobbing in darkness. I disturbed him not. +Morning dawned, and he was fallen into a slumber. The tears bubbled +out of his closed eyelids, and coursed one another down his wan +cheeks. I had been too wretched myself not to respect the sorrows of +another: neglecting therefore my accustomed occupations, I drove +away the flies that buzzed around his temples. His breast heaved +high with sighs, and he cried loudly in his sleep for mercy. + +"The beams of the sun dispelling his dream, he started up like one +that had heard the voice of an avenging angel, and hid his face with +his hands. I poured some milk down his parched throat. 'Oh, +mother!' he exclaimed, 'I am a wretch unworthy of compassion; the +cause of innumerable sufferings; a murderer! a parricide!' My blood +curdled to hear a stripling utter such dreadful words, and behold +such agonising sighs swell in so young a bosom; for I marked the +sting of conscience urging him to disclose what I am going to relate. + +"It seems he was of high extraction, nursed in the pomps and luxuries +of Naples, the pride and darling of his parents, adorned with a +thousand lively talents, which the keenest sensibility conspired to +improve. Unable to fix any bounds to whatever became the object of +his desires, he passed his first years in roving from one +extravagance to another, but as yet there was no crime in his +caprices. + +"At length it pleased Heaven to visit his family, and make their idol +the slave of an unworthy passion. He had a friend, who from his +birth had been devoted to his interest, and placed all his confidence +in him. This friend loved to distraction a young creature, the most +graceful of her sex (as I can witness), and she returned his +affection. In the exultation of his heart, he showed her to the +wretch whose tale I am about to tell. He sickened at her sight. She +too caught fire at his glances. They languished--they consumed away- +-they conversed, and his persuasive language finished what his guilty +glances had begun. + +"Their flame was soon discovered, for he disdained to conceal a +thought, however dishonourable. The parents warned the youth in the +tenderest manner; but advice and prudent counsels were to him so +loathsome, that unable to contain his rage, and infatuated with love, +he menaced the life of his friend as the obstacle of his enjoyment. +Coolness and moderation were opposed to violence and frenzy, and he +found himself treated with a contemptuous gentleness. Stricken to +the heart, he wandered about for some time like one entranced. +Meanwhile the nuptials were preparing; and the lovely girl he had +perverted found ways to let him know she was about to be torn from +his embraces. + +"He raved, and rousing his dire spirit, applied to a malignant daemon +who sold the most inveterate poisons. These he presented, like a cup +of pure iced water, to his friend, and to his own affectionate +father. They drank the draught, and soon began to pine. He marked +the progress of their dissolution with a horrid firmness. He let the +moment pass beyond which all antidotes were vain. His friend +expired; and the young criminal, though he beheld the dews of death +hang on his parent's forehead, yet stretched not forth his hand. In +a short space the miserable father breathed his last, whilst his son +was sitting aloof in the same chamber. + +"The sight overcame him. He felt, for the first time, the pangs of +remorse. His agitation passed not unnoticed. He was watched: +suspicions beginning to unfold, he took alarm, and one evening +escaped; but not without previously informing the partner of his +crimes which way he intended to flee. Several pursued; but the +inscrutable will of Providence blinded their search, and I was doomed +to behold the effects of celestial vengeance. + +"Such are the chief circumstances of the tale I gathered from the +youth. I swooned whilst he related it, and could take no sustenance. +One whole day afterwards did I pray the Lord, that I might die rather +than be near an incarnate demon. With what indignation did I now +survey that slender form and those flowing tresses, which had +interested me before so much in his behalf! + +"No sooner did he perceive the change in my countenance, than +sullenly retiring to yonder rock, he sat careless of the sun and +scorching winds; for it was now the summer solstice. Equally was he +heedless of the unwholesome dews. When midnight came my horrors were +augmented; and I meditated several times to abandon my hovel, and fly +to the next village; but a power more than human chained me to the +spot and fortified my mind. + +"I slept, and it was late next morning when some one called at the +wicket of the little fold, where my goats are penned. I arose, and +saw a peasant of my acquaintance leading a female strangely muffled +up, and casting her eyes on the ground. My heart misgave me. I +thought this was the very maid who had been the cause of such +unheard-of wickedness. Nor were my conjectures ill-founded. +Regardless of the clown who stood by in stupid astonishment, she fell +to the earth and bathed my hand with tears. Her trembling lips with +difficulty inquired after the youth; and, as she spoke, a glow of +conscious guilt lightened up her pale countenance. + +"The full recollection of her lover's crimes shot through my memory. +I was incensed, and would have spurned her away; but she clung to my +garments and seemed to implore my pity with a look so full of misery, +that, relenting, I led her in silence to the extremity of the cliff +where the youth was seated, his feet dangling above the sea. His eye +was rolling wildly around, but it soon fixed upon the object for +whose sake he had doomed himself to perdition. + +"I am not inclined to describe their ecstasies, or the eagerness with +which they sought each other's embraces. I turned indignantly my +head; and, driving my goats to a recess amongst the rocks, sat +revolving in my mind these strange events. I neglected procuring any +provision for my unwelcome guests; and about midnight returned +homewards by the light of the moon, which shone serenely in the +heavens. Almost the first object her beams discovered was the guilty +maid sustaining the head of her lover, who had fainted through +weakness and want of nourishment. I fetched some dry bread, and, +dipping it in milk, laid it before them. Having performed this duty +I set open the door of my hut, and retiring to a neighbouring cavity, +there stretched myself on a heap of leaves, and offered my prayers to +Heaven. + +"A thousand fears, till this moment unknown, thronged into my fancy. +I mistook the shadow of leaves, that chequered the entrance to the +grot, for ugly reptiles, and repeatedly shook my garments. The flow +of the distant surges was deepened by my apprehensions into distant +groans: in a word, I could not rest; but issuing from the cavern as +hastily as my trembling knees would allow, paced along the edge of +the precipice. An unaccountable impulse hurried my steps. Dark +clouds were driving across the sky, and the setting moon was flushed +with the deepest crimson. A wan gleam coloured the sea. Such was my +terror and shivering, that, unable to advance to my hut or retreat to +the cavern, I was about to shield myself from the night in a sandy +crevice, when a loud shriek pierced my ear. My fears had confused +me; I was in fact hard by my hovel, and scarcely three paces from the +brink of the cavern: it was from thence the cries proceeded. + +"Advancing in a cold shudder to its edge, part of which was newly +crumbled in, I discovered the form of the young man suspended by one +foot to a branch of juniper that grew ten feet down: thus dreadfully +did he hang over the gulph from the branch bent with his weight. His +features were distorted, his eye-balls glared with agony, and his +screams became so shrill and terrible, that I lost all power of +assistance. Fixed, I stood with my eyes riveted upon the criminal, +who incessantly cried out, 'O God! O Father! save me, if there be +yet mercy! save me, or I sink into the abyss!' + +"I am convinced he saw me not; for not once did he implore my help. +My heart was dead within me. I called out upon the Lord. His voice +grew faint, and as I gazed intent upon him, he fell into utter +darkness. I sank to the earth in a trance, during which a sound like +the rush of pennons assaulted my ear: methought the evil spirit was +bearing off his soul; I lifted up my eyes, but nothing stirred; the +stillness that prevailed was awful. + +"The moon looked stained with streaks of blood; her orb hanging low +over the waves afforded a sickly light, by which I perceived some one +coming down that white cliff you see before you; and soon I heard the +voice of the young woman calling aloud on her guilty lover. She +stopped. She repeated again and again her exclamation; but there was +no reply. Alarmed and frantic she hurried along the path, and now I +saw her on the promontory, and now by yonder pine, devouring with her +glances every crevice in the rock. At length perceiving me, she flew +to where I stood, by the fatal precipice, and having noticed the +fragments fresh crumbled in, pored importunately on my countenance. +I continued pointing to the chasm; she trembled not; her tears could +not flow; but she divined the meaning. 'He is lost!' said she; 'the +earth has swallowed him! but, as I have shared with him the highest +joy, so will I partake his torments. I will follow; dare not to +hinder me.' I shrank back. + +"Like the phantoms I have seen in dreams, she glanced beside me; and, +clasping her hands above her head, lifted a steadfast look on the +hemisphere, and viewed the moon with an anxiousness that told me she +was bidding it farewell for ever. Observing a silken handkerchief on +the ground, with which she had but an hour ago bound her lover's +temples, she snatched it up, and imprinting it with burning kisses, +thrust it into her bosom. Once more, expanding her arms in the last +act of despair and miserable passion, she threw herself, with a +furious leap, into the gulph. + +"To its margin I crawled on my knees, and, shuddering, looked down +into the gloom. There I remained in the most dreadful darkness; for +now the moon was sunk, the sky obscured with storms, and a +tempestuous blast ranging the ocean. Showers poured thick upon me, +and the lightning, in clear and frequent flashes, gave me terrifying +glimpses of yonder accursed chasm. + +"Stranger, dost thou believe in the great Being? in our Redeemer? in +the tenets of our faith?" I answered with reverence, but said I was +no Catholic. "Then," continued the aged woman, "I will not declare +before a heretic what were the sacred visions of that night of +vengeance!" She paused; I was silent. + +After a short interval, with deep and frequent sighs, she resumed her +narrative. "Daylight began to dawn as if with difficulty, and it was +late before its radiance had tinged the watery and tempestuous +clouds. I was still kneeling by the gulph in prayer when the cliffs +began to brighten, and the beams of the morning sun to strike against +me. Then did I rejoice. Then no longer did I think myself of all +human beings the most abject and miserable. How different did I feel +myself from those, fresh plunged into the abodes of torment, and +driven for ever from the morning! + +"Three days elapsed in total solitude: on the fourth, some grave and +ancient persons arrived from Naples, who questioned me, repeatedly, +about the wretched lovers, and to whom I related their fate with +every dreadful particular. Soon after I learned that all discourse +concerning them was expressly stopped, and that no prayers were +offered up for their souls." + +With these words, as well as I recollect, the old woman ended her +singular narration. My blood thrilled as I walked by the gulph to +call my guide, who stood aloof under the cliffs. He seemed to think, +from the paleness of my countenance, that I had heard some gloomy +prediction, and shook his head when I turned round to bid my old +hostess adieu! It was a melancholy evening, and I could not refrain +from tears, as, winding through the defiles of the rocks, the sad +scenes which had passed amongst them recurred to my memory. + +Traversing a wild thicket, we soon regained the shore, where I +rambled a few minutes whilst the peasant went for the boatmen. The +last streaks of light were quivering on the waters when I stepped +into the bark, and wrapping myself up in an awning, slept till we +reached Puzzoli, some of whose inhabitants came forth with torches to +light us home. + +I was vexed to be roused from my visions, and had much rather have +sunk in some deep cave of the Cimmerians than returned to Naples. + + + +LETTER XXIV + + + +NAPLES, November 9th. + +We made our excursion to Pompeii, passing through Portici, and over +the last lava of Mount Vesuvius. I experienced a strange mixture of +sensations, on surveying at once the mischiefs of the late eruption, +in the ruin of villages, farms, and vineyards; and all around them +the most luxuriant and delightful scenery of nature. It was +impossible to resist the impressions of melancholy from viewing the +former, or not to admit that gaiety of spirits which was inspired by +the sight of the latter. I say nothing of the Museum at Portici, +which we saw in our way, on account of the ample description of its +contents already given to the public, and because it should be +described no otherwise than by an exact catalogue, or by an +exhibition of engravings. An hour and half brought us from this +celebrated repository to Pompeii. Nothing can be conceived more +delightful than the climate and situation of this city. It stands +upon a gently-rising hill, which commands the bay of Naples, with the +islands of Caprea and Ischia, the rich coasts of Sorento, the tower +of Castel a Mare; and on the other side, Mount Vesuvius, with the +lovely country intervening. It is judged to be about an Italian mile +long, and three and a half in circuit. We entered the city at the +little gate which lies towards Stabiae. The first object upon +entering is a colonnade round a square court, which seems to have +formed a place of arms. Behind the colonnade is a series of little +rooms, destined for the soldiers' barracks. The columns are of +stone, plaistered with stucco and coloured. On several of them we +found names scratched in Greek and Latin; probably those of the +soldiers who had been quartered there. Helmets and armour for +various parts of the body were discovered amongst the skeletons of +some soldiers, whose hard fate had compelled them to wait on duty, at +the perilous moment of the city's approaching destruction. Dolphins +and tridents, sculptured in relief on most of these relics of armour, +seem to show that they had been fabricated for naval service. Some +of the sculptures on the arms, probably belonging to officers, +exhibit a greater variety of ornaments. The taking of Troy, wrought +on one of the helmets, is beautifully executed; and much may be said +in commendation of the work of several others. + +We were next led to the remains of a temple and altar near these +barracks. From thence to some rooms floored (as indeed were almost +all that have been cleared from the rubbish) with tesselated mosaic +pavements of various patterns, and most of them of very excellent +execution. Many of these have been taken up, and now form the floors +of the rooms in the Museum at Portici, whose best ornaments of every +kind are furnished from the discoveries at Pompeii. From the rooms +just mentioned we descended into a subterraneous chamber, +communicating with a bathing apartment. It appears to have served as +a kind of office to the latter. It was probably here that the +clothes used in bathing were washed. A fireplace, a capacious +cauldron of bronze, and earthen vessels, proper for that purpose, +found here, have given rise to the conjecture. Contiguous to this +room is a small circular one with a fireplace, which was the stove to +the bath. I should not forget to tell you that the skeleton of the +poor laundress (for so the antiquaries will have it), who was very +diligently washing the bathing clothes at the time of the eruption, +was found lying in an attitude of most resigned death, not far from +the washing cauldron in the office just mentioned. + +We were now conducted to the temple, or rather chapel, of Isis. The +chief remains are a covered cloister; the great altar on which was +probably exhibited the statue of the goddess; a little edifice to +protect the sacred well; the pediment of the chapel, with a +symbolical vase in relief; ornaments in stucco, on the front of the +main building, consisting of the lotus, the sistrum, representations +of gods, Harpocrates, Anubis, and other objects of Egyptian worship. +The figures on one side of this temple are Perseus with the Gorgon's +head; on the other side, Mars and Venus, with Cupids bearing the arms +of Mars. We next observe three altars of different sizes. On one of +them is said to have been found the bones of a victim unconsumed, the +last sacrifice having probably been stopped by the dreadful calamity +which had occasioned it. From a niche in the temple was taken a +statue of marble: a woman pressing her lips with her forefinger. +Within the area is a well, where the priest threw the ashes of the +sacrifices. We saw in the Museum at Portici some lovely arabesque +paintings, cut from the walls of the cloister. The foliage which ran +round the whole sweep of the cloister itself is in the finest taste. +A tablet of basalt with Egyptian hieroglyphics was transported from +thence to Portici, together with the following inscription, taken +from the front gate of the chapel: + + +N. POPIDUS N. F. CELSINUS. +AEDEM ISIDIS TERRAE MOTU COLLAPSAM +A FUNDAMENTO P. SUA RESTITUIT +HUNC DECURIONES OB LIBERALITATEM +CUM ESSET ANNORUM SEX ORDINI SUO +GRATIS ADLEGERUNT. + + +Behind one of the altars we saw a small room, in which, our guide +informed us, a human skeleton had been discovered, with some fish +bones on a plate near it, and a number of other culinary utensils. +We then passed on to another apartment, almost contiguous, where +nothing more remarkable had been found than an iron crow: an +instrument with which perhaps the unfortunate wretch, whose skeleton +I have mentioned above, had vainly endeavoured to extricate herself, +this room being probably barricaded by the matter of the eruption. +This temple, rebuilt, as the inscription imports, by N. Popidius, had +been thrown down by a terrible earthquake, that likewise destroyed a +great part of the city (sixteen years before the famous eruption of +Vesuvius described by Pliny, which happened in the first year of +Titus, A.D. 79) and buried at once both Herculaneum and Pompeii. As +I lingered alone in these environs sacred to Isis, some time after my +companions had quitted them, I fell into one of those reveries which +my imagination is so fond of indulging; and transporting myself +seventeen hundred years back, fancied I was sailing with the elder +Pliny, on the first day's eruption, from Misenum, towards Retina and +Herculaneum; and afterwards towards the villa of his friend +Pomponianus at Stabiae. The course of our galley seldom carried us +out of sight of Pompeii, and as often as I could divert my attention +from the tremendous spectacle of the eruption, its enormous pillar of +smoke standing conically in the air, and tempests of liquid fire +continually bursting out from the midst of it, then raining down the +sides of the mountain, and flooding this beautiful coast with +innumerable streams of red-hot lava, methought I turned my eyes upon +this fair city, whose houses, villas, and gardens, with their long +ranges of columned courts and porticos, were made visible through the +universal cloud of ashes, by lightning from the mountain; and saw its +distracted inhabitants, men, women, and children, running to and fro +in despair. But in one spot, I mean the court and precincts of the +temple, glared a continual light. It was the blaze of the altars; +towards which I discerned a long-robed train of priests moving in +solemn procession, to supplicate by prayer and sacrifice, at this +destructive moment, the intervention of Isis, who had taught the +first fathers of mankind the culture of the earth, and other arts of +civil life. Methought I could distinguish in their hands all those +paintings and images, sacred to this divinity, brought out on this +portentous occasion, from the subterraneous apartments and mystic +cells of the temple. There was every form of creeping thing and +abominable beast, every Egyptian pollution which the true prophet had +seen in vision, among the secret idolatries of the temple at +Jerusalem. The priests arrived at the altars; I saw them gathered +round, and purifying the three at once with the sacred meal; then, +all moving slowly about them, each with his right hand towards the +fire: it was the office of some to seize the firebrands of the +altars, with which they sprinkled holy water on the numberless +bystanders. Then began the prayers, the hymns, and lustrations of +the sacrifice. The priests had laid the victims with their throats +downward upon the altars; were ransacking the baskets of flour and +salt for the knives of slaughter, and proceeding in haste to the +accomplishment of their pious ceremonies;--when one of our company, +who thought me lost, returned with impatience, and calling me off to +some new object, put an end to my strange reverie. We were now +summoned to pay some attention to the scene and corridor of a +theatre, not far from the temple. Little more of its remains being +yet cleared away, we hastened back to a small house and garden in the +neighbourhood of Isis. Sir W. Hamilton (in his account of Pompeii +communicated to the Society of Antiquaries), when speaking of this +house, having taken occasion to give a general idea of the private +mansions of the ancient citizens, I shall take the liberty of +transcribing the whole passage. "A covered cloister, supported by +columns, goes round the house, as was customary in many of the houses +at Pompeii. The rooms in general are very small, and in one, where +an iron bedstead was found, the wall had been pared away to make room +for this bedstead; so that it was not six feet square, and yet this +room was most elegantly painted, and had a tesselated or mosaic +floor. The weight of the matter erupted from Mount Vesuvius has +universally damaged the upper parts of the houses; the lower parts +are mostly found as fresh as at the moment they were buried. The +plan of most of the houses at Pompeii is a square court, with a +fountain in the middle, and small rooms round, communicating with +that court. By the construction and distribution of the houses, it +seems, the inhabitants of Pompeii were fond of privacy. They had few +windows towards the street, except where, from the nature of the +plan, they could not avoid it; but even in that case the windows were +placed too high for anyone in the streets to overlook them. Their +houses nearly resemble each other, both as to distribution of plan, +and in the manner of finishing the apartments. The rooms are in +general small, from ten to twelve feet, and from fourteen to eighteen +feet; few communications between room and room, almost all without +windows, except the apartments situated to the gardens, which are +thought to have been allotted to the women. Their cortiles, or +courts, were often surrounded by porticos, even in very small houses; +not but there were covered galleries before the doors of their +apartments to afford shade and shelter. No timber was used in +finishing their apartments, except in doors and windows. The floors +were generally laid in mosaic work. One general taste prevailed of +painting the sides and ceilings of the rooms. Small figures and +medallions of low relief were sometimes introduced. Their great +variety consisted in the colours, and in the choice and delicacy of +the ornaments, in which they displayed great harmony and taste. +Their houses were some two, others three stories high." + +We now pursued our way through what is with some probability thought +to have been the principal street. Its narrowness, however, +surprised me. It is scarcely eleven feet wide, clear of the footways +raised on each side of it. The pavement is formed of a large sort of +flattish-surfaced pebbles; not laid down with the greatest evenness +or regularity. The sideways may be about a yard wide, each paved, +irregularly enough, with small stones. There are guard stones at +equal intervals, to defend the foot passengers from carriages and +horses. I cannot say I found anything either elegant or pleasant in +the effect of this open street. But, as the houses in general +present little more than a dead wall towards it, I do not imagine any +views, beyond mere use and convenience, were consulted in the plan. +It led us, however, through the principal gate or entrance, to a sort +of Villa Rustica, without the limits of the city, which amply +recompensed our curiosity. The arcade surrounding a square garden, +or courtyard, offers itself first to the observer's notice. Into +this open a number of coved rooms, adorned with paintings of figures +and arabesques. These rooms, though small, have a rich and elegant +appearance, their ornaments being very well executed, and retaining +still their original freshness. On the top of the arcade runs a walk +or open terrace, leading to the larger apartments of the higher +story. One of the rooms below has a capacious bow-window, where +several panes of glass, somewhat shattered, were found, but in +sufficient preservation to show that the ancients were not without +knowledge of this species of manufacture. As Horace and most of the +old Latin Poets dwell much on the praises of ancient conviviality, +and appear to have valued themselves considerably on their +connoisseurship in wine, it was with great pleasure I descended into +the spacious cellars, sunk and vaulted beneath the arcade above- +mentioned. Several earthen amphorae were standing in rows against +the walls, but the Massic and Falernian with which they were once +stored, had probably long been totally absorbed by the earth and +ashes, which were now the sole contents of these venerable jars. The +ancients are thought to have used oil, instead of corks, and that the +stoppers were of some matter that could make but little resistance, +seems confirmed by the entrance of that, which now supplied the place +with wine. The skeletons of several of the family who had possessed +this villa were discovered in the cellar, together with brass and +silver coins, and many such ornaments of dress as were of more +durable materials. On re-ascending, we went to the hot and cold +baths; thence to the back of the villa, separated by a passage from +the more elegant part of the house; we were shown some rooms which +had been occupied by the farmer, and from whence several implements +of agriculture had been carried, to enrich the collection at Portici. +On the whole, the plan and construction of this villa are extremely +curious, and its situation very happily chosen. I could not, +however, help feeling some regret, in not having had the good fortune +to be present at the first discovery. It must have been highly +interesting to see all its ancient relics (the greatest part of which +are now removed) each in its proper place; or, at least, in the place +they had possessed for so long a course of years. His Sicilian +Majesty has ordered a correct draught of this villa to be taken, +which, it is hoped, will one day be published, with a complete +account of all the discoveries at Pompeii. + +Our next walk was to see the Columbarium, a very solemn looking +edifice, where probably the families of higher rank only at Pompeii, +deposited the urns of their deceased kindred. Several of these urns, +with their ashes, and one among the rest of glass, inclosed in +another of earth, were dug out of the sepulchral vaults. A quantity +of marble statues, of but ordinary execution, and colossal masks of +terra-cotta, constituted the chief ornaments of the Columbarium. It +is situated without the gates, on the same side of the city as the +villa just described. There is something characteristically sad in +its aspect. It threw my mind into a melancholy, but not disagreeable +tone. Under the mixed sentiments it inspired, I cast one lingering +look back on the whole affecting scene of ruins, over which I had for +several hours been rambling, and quitted it to return to Naples, not +without great reluctance. + + + +LETTER XXV + + + +ROME, December 9th. + +My last letter was despatched in such a hurry that I had not time to +conclude it. This will be nearly as imperfect; but yet I cannot +forbear writing, having the vanity to believe that you are pleased +with hearing only that I am well. + +Your friend H. walked with me this morning in the Loggios of +Raffaelle, and we went afterwards to the Capitol. Nothing delighted +me more in the whole treasury of sculptures, than a figure in alto +relievo of Endymion, reclined on the mountain's brow: his head falls +upon his breast with an ease and gracefulness, of which the Greeks +alone had ever a true conception. Most of the chambers, if you +recollect, are filled with the elegant remains of Adrian's +collection. The villa of that classic emperor at Tivoli, must have +been the most charming of structures. Having travelled into various +and remote parts of his empire, he assembled their most valuable +ornaments on one spot. Some of his apartments were filled with the +mysterious images and symbols of Egypt: others with Eastern tripods +and strange Adriatic vases. Though enraptured with St. Peter's and +the Vatican, with the gardens and groves of pine, that surround this +interesting city, still I cannot help sighing after my native hills +and copses, which look (I know not how it happens) more like the +haunts of Pan than any I have seen in Italy. I eagerly anticipate +the placid hours we shall pass, perhaps next summer, on the wild +range which belongs to our sylvan deities. In their deep fastnesses +I will hide myself from the world, and never allow its glare to +bicker through my foliage. You will follow me, I trust, into +retirement, and equally forget the turmoils of mankind. What have we +children of the good Sylvanus to do with the miseries or triumphs of +the savages that prowl about London? Let us forget there exists such +a city, and when reposing amongst ivy and blossoms of bloom, imagine +ourselves in the ancient dominions of Saturn, and dream that we see +him pass along with his rustic attendants. + + + +LETTER XXVI + + + +AUGSBURG, January 20th, 1781. + +For these ten days past have I been traversing Lapland: winds +whistling in my ears, and cones showering down upon my head from the +wilds of pine through which our route conducted us. Often were we +obliged to travel by moonlight, and I leave you to imagine the awful +aspect of the Tyrol mountains buried in snow. + +I scarcely ventured to utter an exclamation of surprise, though +prompted by some of the most striking scenes in nature, lest I should +interrupt the sacred silence that prevails, during winter, in these +boundless solitudes. The streams are frozen, and mankind petrified, +for aught I know to the contrary, since whole days have we journeyed +on without perceiving the slightest hint of their existence. + +I never before felt the pleasure of discovering a smoke rising from a +cottage, or of hearing a heifer lowing in its stall; and could not +have supposed there was so much satisfaction in perceiving two or +three fur caps, with faces under them, peeping out of their +concealments. I wish you had been with me, exploring this savage +region: wrapped up in our bear-skins, we should have followed its +secret avenues, and penetrated, perhaps, into some enchanted cave +lined with sables, where, like the heroes of northern romances, we +should have been waited upon by dwarfs, and sung drowsily to repose. +I think it no bad scheme to sleep away five or six years to come, +since every hour affairs are growing more and more turbulent. Well, +let them! provided we may enjoy, in security, the shades of our +thickets. + + + +ADDITIONAL LETTERS + + + +[The following Letters, written in a second Excursion, which was +interrupted by a dangerous illness, are added on account of their +affinity to some of the preceding.] + + + +LETTER I + + + +COLOGNE, May 28th, 1782. + +This is the first day of summer; the oak leaves expand, the roses +blow, butterflies are about, and I have spirits enough to write to +you. We have had clouded skies this fortnight past, and roads like +the Slough of Despond. Last Wednesday we were benighted on a dismal +plain, apparently boundless. The moon cast a sickly gleam, and now +and then a blue meteor glided along the morass which lay before us. + +After much difficulty we gained an avenue, and in an hour's time +discovered something like a gateway, shaded by crooked elms and +crowned by a cluster of turrets. Here we paused and knocked; no one +answered. We repeated our knocks; the stout oaken gate returned a +hollow sound; the horses coughed, their riders blew their horns. At +length the bars fell, and we entered--by what means I am ignorant, +for no human being appeared. + +A labyrinth of narrow winding alleys, dark as the vaults of a +cathedral, opened to our view. We kept wandering along, at least +twenty minutes, between lofty mansions with grated windows, and +strange galleries, projecting one over another, from which depended +innumerable uncouth figures and crosses, in iron-work, swinging to +and fro with the wind. At the end of this gloomy maze we found a +long street, not fifteen feet wide, I am certain; the houses still +loftier than those in the alleys, the windows thicker barred, and the +gibbets (for I know not what else to call them) more frequent. Here +and there we saw lights glimmering in the highest stories, and arches +on the right and left, which seemed to lead into retired courts and +deeper darkness. + +Along one of these recesses we were jumbled, over such pavement as I +hope you may never tread upon; and, after parading round it, went out +at the same arch whence we came in. This procession seemed at first +very mystical, but it was too soon accounted for by our postillions, +who confessed they had lost their way. A council was held amongst +them in form, and then we struck into another labyrinth of hideous +edifices, habitations I will not venture to call them, as not a +creature stirred; though the rumbling of our carriages was echoed by +all the vaults and arches. + +Towards midnight we rested a few minutes, and a head poking out of a +casement directed us to the hotel of Der Heilige Geist, where an +apartment, thirty feet square, was prepared for our reception. + + + +LETTER II + + + +INSPRUCK, June 4th. + +No sooner had we passed Fuezen than we entered the Tyrol, and the +country of wonders. Those lofty peaks, those steeps of wood I +delight in, lay before us. Innumerable clear springs gush out on +every side, overhung by luxuriant shrubs in blossom. The day was +mild, though overcast, and a soft blue vapour rested upon the hills, +above which rise mountains that bear plains of snow into the clouds. + +At night we lay at Nasariet, a village buried amongst savage +promontories. The next morning we advanced, in bright sunshine, into +smooth lawns on the slopes of mountains, scattered over with larches, +whose delicate foliage formed a light green veil to the azure sky. +Flights of birds were merrily travelling from spray to spray. I ran +delighted into this world of boughs, whilst C. sat down to draw the +huts which are scattered about for the shelter of herds, and discover +themselves amongst the groves in the most picturesque manner. + +These little edifices are uncommonly neat, and excite those ideas of +pastoral life to which I am so fondly attached. The turf from whence +they rise is enamelled, in the strict sense of the word, with +flowers. A sort of bluebell predominated, brighter than ultramarine; +here and there auriculas looked out of the moss, and I often reposed +upon tufts of ranunculus. Bushes of phillerea were very frequent, +the sun shining full on their glossy leaves. An hour passed away +swiftly in these pleasant groves, where I lay supine under a lofty +fir, a tower of leaves and branches. + + + +LETTER III + + + +PADUA, June 14th. + +Once more, said I to myself, I shall have the delight of beholding +Venice; so got into an open chaise, the strangest curricle that ever +man was jolted in, and drove furiously along the causeways by the +Brenta, into whose deep waters it is a mercy, methinks, I was not +precipitated. Fiesso, the Dolo, the Mira, with all their gardens, +statues, and palaces, seemed flying after each other, so rapid was +our motion. + +After a few hours' confinement between close steeps, the scene opened +to the wide shore of Fusina. I looked up (for I had scarcely time to +look before) and beheld a troubled sky, shot with vivid red, the +Lagunes tinted like the opal, and the islands of a glowing flame- +colour. The lofty mountains of the distant continent appeared of a +deep melancholy grey, and innumerable gondolas were passing to and +fro in all their blackness. The sun, after a long struggle, was +swallowed up in the tempestuous clouds. + +In an hour we drew near to Venice, and saw its world of domes rising +out of the waters. A fresh breeze bore the toll of innumerable bells +by my ear. Sadness came over me as I entered the great canal, and +recognised (the scene of many a strange adventure) those solemn +palaces, with their lofty arcades and gloomy arches, beneath which I +had so often sat. + +The Venetians being mostly at their villas on the Brenta, the town +appeared deserted. I visited, however, all my old haunts in the +Place of St. Mark, ran up the Campanile, and rowed backwards and +forwards, opposite the Ducal Palace, by moonlight. They are building +a spacious quay, near the street of the Sclavonians, fronting the +island of San Giorgio Maggiore, where I remained alone at least an +hour, following the wanderings of the moon amongst mountainous +clouds, and listening to the waters dashing against marble steps. + +I closed my evening at my friend M. de R.'s, and sung over the airs I +composed in the dawn of our acquaintance. + +Next morning the wind was uncommonly violent for the mild season of +June, and the canals much agitated; but I was determined to visit the +Lido once more, and bathe on my accustomed beach. The pines in the +garden of the Carthusians were nodding as I passed by in my gondola, +which was very poetically buffeted by the waves. + +Traversing the desert of locusts, I hailed the Adriatic, and plunged +into its bosom. The sea, delightfully cool, refreshed me to such a +degree, that, upon my return to Venice, I found myself able to thread +its labyrinths of streets, canals, and alleys, in search of amber and +Oriental curiosities. The variety of exotic merchandize, the perfume +of coffee, the shade of awnings, and the sight of Greeks and Asiatics +sitting crossed-legged under them, made me think myself in the +bazaars of Constantinople. + +'Tis certain my beloved town of Venice ever recalls a series of +Eastern ideas and adventures. I cannot help thinking St. Mark's a +mosque, and the neighbouring palace some vast seraglio, full of +arabesque saloons, embroidered sofas, and voluptuous Circassians. + + + +LETTER IV + + + +PADUA, June 19th. + +The morning was delightful, and St. Anthony's bells in full chime. A +shower which had fallen in the night rendered the air so cool and +grateful, that Mad. de R. and myself determined to seize the +opportunity and go to Mirabello, a country house, which Algarotti had +inhabited, situate amongst the Euganean hills, eight or nine miles +from Padua. + +Our road lay between poplar alleys and fields of yellow corn, +overhung by garlands of vine, most beautifully green. I soon found +myself in the midst of my favourite hills, upon slopes covered with +clover, and shaded by cherry-trees. Bending down their boughs I +gathered the fruit, and grew cooler and happier every instant. + +We dined very comfortably in a strange hall, where I pitched my +pianoforte, and sang the voluptuous airs of Bertoni's Armida. That +enchantress might have raised her palace in this situation; and, had +I been Rinaldo, I certainly should not very soon have abandoned it. + +After dinner we drank coffee under some branching lemons, which +sprang from a terrace, commanding a boundless scene of towers and +villas; tall cypresses and shrubby hillocks rising, like islands, out +of a sea of corn and vine. + +Evening drawing on, and the breeze blowing fresh from the distant +Adriatic, I reclined on a slope, and turned my eyes anxiously towards +Venice; then upon some little fields hemmed in by chestnuts in +blossom, where the peasants were making their hay, and, from thence, +to a mountain, crowned by a circular grove of fir and cypress. + +In the centre of these shades some monks have a comfortable nest; +perennial springs, a garden of delicious vegetables, and, I dare say, +a thousand luxuries besides, which the poor mortals below never dream +of. + +Had it not been late, I should certainly have climbed up to the +grove, and asked admittance into its recesses; but having no mind to +pass the night in this eyrie, I contented myself with the distant +prospect. + + + +LETTER V + + + +ROME, June 29th. + +It is needless for me to say I wish you with me: you know I do; you +know how delightfully we should ramble about Rome together. This +evening, instead of jiggeting along the Corso with the puppets in +blue and silver coats, and green and gold coaches, instead of bowing +to Cardinal this, and dotting my head to Abbe t'other, I strolled to +the Coliseo, found out my old haunts amongst its arches, and enjoyed +the pure transparent sky between groves of slender cypress. Then +bending my course to the Palatine Mount, I passed under the Arch of +Titus, and gained the Capitol, which was quite deserted, the world, +thank Heaven, being all slip-slopping in coffee-houses, or staring at +a few painted boards patched up before the Colonna palace, where, by +the by, to-night is a grand rinfresco for all the dolls and doll- +fanciers of Rome. I heard their buzz at a distance; that was enough +for me! + +Soothed by the rippling of waters, I descended the Capitoline stairs, +and leaned several minutes against one of the Egyptian lionesses. +This animal has no knack at oracles, or else it would have murmured +out to me the situation of that secret cave, where the wolf suckled +Romulus and his brother. + +About nine, I returned home, and am now writing to you like a prophet +on the housetop. Behind me rustle the thickets of Villa Medici; +before, lies roof beyond roof and dome beyond dome: these are dimly +discovered; but don't you see the great cupola of cupolas, twinkling +with illuminations? The town is real, I am certain; but, surely, +that structure of fire must be visionary. + + + +LETTER VI + + + +ROME, June 30th. + +As soon as the sun declined I strolled into the Villa Medici; but +finding it haunted by fine pink and yellow people, nay, even by the +Spanish Ambassador, and several more dignified carcasses, I moved off +to the Negroni garden. There I found what my soul desired, thickets +of jasmine, and wild spots overgrown with bay; long alleys of cypress +totally neglected, and almost impassable through the luxuriance of +the vegetation; on every side antique fragments, vases, sarcophagi, +and altars sacred to the Manes, in deep, shady recesses, which I am +certain the Manes must love. The air was filled with the murmurs of +water, trickling down basins of porphyry, and losing itself amongst +overgrown weeds and grasses. + +Above the wood and between its boughs appeared several domes, and a +strange lofty tower. I will not say they belong to St. Maria +Maggiore; no, they are fanes and porticos dedicated to Cybele, who +delights in sylvan situations. The forlorn air of this garden, with +its high and reverend shades, make me imagine it as old as the baths +of Dioclesian, which peep over one of its walls. Yes, I am persuaded +some consul or praetor dwelt here only fifty years ago. Would to +God, our souls might be transported to such solitary spots! where we +might glide along the dark alleys together, when bodies were gone to +bed. I discovered a little cave that would just suit us; celandine, +Venus' hair, and a thousand delicate plants, growing downwards from +the cave; beneath lies a clear spring. + +At the close of day, I repaired to the platform before the stately +porticos of the Lateran. There I sat, folded up in myself. Some +priests jarred the iron gates behind me. I looked over my shoulder +through the portals, into the portico. Night began to fill it with +darkness. Upon turning round, the sad waste of the Campagna met my +eyes, and I wished to go home, but had not the power. A pressure, +like that I have felt in horrid dreams, seemed to fix me to the +pavement. + +I was thus in a manner forced to view the dreary scene, the long line +of aqueducts and lonesome towers. Perhaps the unwholesome vapours, +rising like blue mists from the plains, affected me. I know not how +it was; but I never experienced such strange, such chilling terrors. +About ten o'clock, thank God, the spell dissolved; I found my limbs +at liberty, and returned home. + + + +LETTER VII + + + +NAPLES, July 8th. + +The sea-breezes restored me to life. I set the heat of midday at +defiance, and do not believe in the horrors of the sirocco. +Yesterday I passed at Portici, with Lady H. The morning, refreshing +and pleasant, invited us at an early hour into the open air. We +drove, in an uncovered chaise, to the royal Bosquetto: no other +carriage than Sir W.'s is allowed to enter its alleys. We breathed a +fresh air untainted by dust or garlic. Every now and then, amidst +wild bushes of ilex and myrtle, one finds a graceful antique statue, +sometimes a fountain, and often a rude knoll, where the rabbits sit +undisturbed, contemplating the blue glittering bay; at least, I +should do so, if I were a rabbit. + +The walls of this shady inclosure are lined with Peruvian aloes, +whose white blossoms, scented like those of the magnolia, form the +most magnificent clusters. They are plants to salute respectfully as +one passes by, such is their size and dignity. In the midst of the +thickets stands the King's Pagliaro, surrounded by gardens with +hedges of luxuriant jasmine, whose branches are suffered to flaunt as +much as Nature pleases. + +The morning sun darted his first rays on their flowers just as I +entered this pleasant spot. The hut looks as if erected in the days +of fairy pastoral life; its neatness is quite delightful. Bright +tiles compose the floor; straw, nicely platted, covers the walls. In +the middle of the room, you see a table spread with a beautiful +Persian carpet; at one end, four niches with mattresses of silk, +where the King and his favourites repose after dinner; at the other, +a white marble basin. Mount a little staircase, and you find +yourself in another apartment, formed by the roof, which being +entirely composed of glistening straw, casts that comfortable yellow +glow I admire. From the windows you look into the garden, not +flourished with parterres, but divided into plats of fragrant herbs +and flowers, with here and there a little marble table, or basin of +the purest water. + +These sequestered inclosures are cultivated with the greatest care, +and so frequently watered, that I observed lettuces, and a variety of +other vegetables, as fresh as in our green England. + + + +AN EXCURSION TO THE GRAND CHARTREUSE IN THE YEAR 1778 + + + +The Grand Chartreuse has exceeded my expectations; it is more +wonderfully wild than I can describe, or even you can imagine. It +has possessed me to such a degree that at present I can neither +think, speak, nor write upon any other subject. + +June 5th.--I left Geneva, and after passing through a succession of +valleys between innumerable mountains, and after crossing a variety +of picturesque bridges, thrown over the streams which water them, +arrived at Aix, in Savoy, famous for its baths, which, as +disagreeable things are generally the most salutary, ought doubtless +to be of the greatest efficacy; for more uninviting objects one +seldom meets with. + +Advancing beneath a little eminence, partly rock, partly wall, we +discovered the principal bath, filled with a blue reeking water, +whose very steam is sufficient to seethe one without further +assistance. + +Scarce had we stood looking on it a minute, before down dashed three +or four dirty boys, as copper-coloured as the natives of Bengal; who +by splashing us all over, and swimming about a la crapaudine, +convinced us that it was not their fault, if we would not have +companions in the delights of bathing. I soon hurried away from this +salubrious cauldron, and stepping into a little chapel hard by, where +they were singing vespers, prayed heartily to the Virgin, that I +might never need the assistance of those wonder-working waters over +which she presides. As there was but little company in the town, and +little amusement, I went to bed at nine, and rose at four the next +morning, that I might reach before sunset the celebrated road, which +Charles Emanuel had cut through a rocky mountain. My plan succeeded, +and after dining at Chambery (a place scarce worth speaking of to +you), and passing by a cataract that throws itself from a lofty +steep, I began to discover a beautiful woody vale, terminated on one +side by the hallowed cliffs of the Grand Chartreuse, and on the other +by the mountain which Charles Emanuel had perforated in so +extraordinary a manner. The sun was just sinking in a brilliant +cloud, which seemed to repose on a swelling hill, covered with +cattle, when we quitted the cheerful valley, and began to descend +between two ridges of precipices, that at some distance had the +appearance of towering ramparts. Pursuing our route, we found +ourselves in a deep cleft, surrounded by caverns, echoing with a +thousand rills which trickle down their sides, and mingling their +murmurs with the rattling of our wheels and the steps of our horses, +infinitely repeated and multiplied, formed, altogether, the strangest +combination of sounds that ever reached my ears. The road itself is +admirably cut, and hewn with such neatness that, were it not for the +savage and desolate air of its environs, I should have imagined +myself approaching some grand castle or considerable city. Toward +the summits of the precipices, that in some places rise to a majestic +elevation (the two sides here and there nearly meeting in an arch), +hang light woods of glossy green, which, being agitated by a gentle +wind, cast a moving shadow over the cleft beneath, and, at a little +distance, gave our road the appearance of a chequered pavement. + +Having wound through the bosom of the mountain for some time, I was +struck by the unexpected appearance of a grand edifice, resembling a +vast portal, supported by Doric pilasters, and crowned with an +ornamented pediment. Upon my nearer approach I found a smooth tablet +filling up the space I had allotted for an entrance, on which was +engraven a pompous Latin inscription, setting forth with what +incredible labour and perseverance his Majesty, Charles Emanuel the +Second of Sardinia, Cyprus, and Jerusalem, King, had cut this road +through the mountain; which great enterprise, though unattempted by +the Romans, and despaired of by other nations, was executed under his +auspices. I very sincerely wished him joy, and, as the evening was +growing rather cool, was not sorry to perceive, through an opening in +the rocks, a wide-extended plain, interspersed with meadows, +embosomed by woods, in which I distinguished Les Echelles, a village, +where we were to lie, with its chimneys smoking, under the base of +one of the Carthusian mountains, round which had gathered a concourse +of red and greyish clouds. + +The twilight was beginning to prevail when we reached our inn, and +very glad I was to leave it at the first dawn of the next day. We +were now obliged to abandon our coach; and taking horse, proceeded +towards the mountains, which, with the valleys between them, form +what is called the Desert of the Carthusians. + +In an hour's time we were drawing near, and could discern the opening +of a narrow valley overhung by shaggy precipices, above which rose +lofty peaks, covered to their very summits with wood. We could now +distinguish the roar of torrents, and a confusion of strange sounds, +issuing from dark forests of pine. I confess at this moment I was +somewhat startled. I experienced some disagreeable sensations, and +it was not without a degree of unwillingness that I left the gay +pastures and enlivening sunshine, to throw myself into this gloomy +and disturbed region. How dreadful, thought I, must be the despair +of those who enter it never to return! + +But after the first impression was worn away, all my curiosity +redoubled; and desiring our guide to put forward with greater speed, +we made such good haste, that the meadows and cottages of the plain +were soon left far behind, and we found ourselves on the banks of the +torrent, whose agitation answered the ideas which its sounds had +inspired. Into the midst of these troubled waters we were obliged to +plunge with our horses, and, when landed on the opposite shore, were +by no means displeased to have passed them. + +We had now closed with the forests, over which the impending rocks +diffused an additional gloom. The day grew obscured by clouds, and +the sun no longer enlightened the distant plains, when we began to +ascend towards the entrance of the desert, marked by two pinnacles of +rock far above us, beyond which a melancholy twilight prevailed. +Every moment we approached nearer and nearer to the sounds which had +alarmed us; and, suddenly emerging from the woods, we discovered +several mills and forges, with many complicated machines of iron, +hanging over the torrent, that threw itself headlong from a cleft in +the precipices; on one side of which I perceived our road winding +along, till it was stopped by a venerable gateway. A rock above one +of the forges was hollowed into the shape of a round tower, of no +great size, but resembling very much an altar in figure; and, what +added greatly to the grandeur of the object, was a livid flame +continually palpitating upon it, which the gloom of the valley +rendered perfectly discernible. + +The road, at a small distance from this remarkable scene, was become +so narrow, that, had my horse started, I should have been but too +well acquainted with the torrent that raged beneath; dismounting, +therefore, I walked towards the edge of the great fall, and there, +leaning on a fragment of cliff, looked down into the foaming gulph, +where the waters were hurled along over broken pines, pointed rocks, +and stakes of iron. Then, lifting up my eyes, I took in the vast +extent of the forests, frowning on the brows of the mountains. + +It was here first I felt myself seized by the genius of the place, +and penetrated with veneration of its religious gloom; and, I +believe, uttered many extravagant exclamations; but, such was the +dashing of the wheels, and the rushing of the waters at the bottom of +the forges, that what I said was luckily undistinguishable. + +I was not yet, however, within the consecrated inclosure, and +therefore not perfectly contented; so, leaving my fragment, I paced +in silence up the path which led to the great portal. When we +arrived before it, I rested a moment, and leaning against the stout +oaken gate, which closed up the entrance to this unknown region, felt +at my heart a certain awe, that brought to my mind the sacred terror +of those, in ancient days, going to be admitted into the Eleusinian +mysteries. + +My guide gave two knocks; after a solemn pause, the gate was slowly +opened, and all our horses having passed through it, was again +carefully closed. + +I now found myself in a narrow dell, surrounded on every side by +peaks of the mountains, rising almost beyond my sight, and shelving +downwards till their bases were hidden by the foam and spray of the +water, over which hung a thousand withered and distorted trees. The +rocks seemed crowding upon me, and, by their particular situation, +threatened to obstruct every ray of light; but, notwithstanding the +menacing appearance of the prospect, I still kept following my guide, +up a craggy ascent, partly hewn through a rock, and bordered by the +trunks of ancient fir-trees, which formed a fantastic barrier, till +we came to a dreary and exposed promontory, impending directly over +the dell. + +The woods are here clouded with darkness, and the torrents, rushing +with additional violence, are lost in the gloom of the caverns below; +every object, as I looked downwards from my path, that hung midway +between the base and the summit of the cliff, was horrid and woeful. +The channel of the torrent sunk deep amidst frightful crags, and the +pale willows and wreathed roots spreading over it, answered my ideas +of those dismal abodes, where, according to the druidical mythology, +the ghosts of conquered warriors were bound. I shivered whilst I was +regarding these regions of desolation, and, quickly lifting up my +eyes to vary the scene, I perceived a range of whitish cliffs, +glistening with the light of the sun, to emerge from these melancholy +forests. + +On a fragment that projected over the chasm, and concealed for a +moment its terrors, I saw a cross, on which was written VIA COELI. +The cliffs being the heaven to which I now aspired, we deserted the +edge of the precipice, and ascending, came to a retired nook of the +rocks, in which several copious rills had worn irregular grottoes. +Here we reposed an instant, and were enlivened with a few sunbeams, +piercing the thickets and gilding the waters that bubbled from the +rock, over which hung another cross, inscribed with this short +sentence, which the situation rendered wonderfully pathetic, O SPES +UNICA! the fervent exclamation of some wretch disgusted with the +world, whose only consolation was found in this retirement. + +We quitted this solitary cross to enter a thick forest of beech- +trees, that screened in some measure the precipices on which they +grew, catching, however, every instant terrifying glimpses of the +torrent below. Streams gushed from every crevice in the cliffs, and +falling over the mossy roots and branches of the beech, hastened to +join the great torrent, athwart which I every now and then remarked +certain tottering bridges, and sometimes could distinguish a +Carthusian crossing over to his hermitage, that just peeped above the +woody labyrinths on the opposite shore. + +Whilst I was proceeding amongst the innumerable trunks of the beech +trees, my guide pointed out to me a peak, rising above the others, +which he called the Throne of Moses. If that prophet had received +his revelations in this desert, no voice need have declared it holy +ground, for every part of it is stamped with such a sublimity of +character as would alone be sufficient to impress the idea. + +Having left these woods behind, and crossing a bridge of many lofty +arches, I shuddered once more at the impetuosity of the torrent; and, +mounting still higher, came at length to a kind of platform before +two cliffs, joined by an arch of rock, under which we were to pursue +our road. Below we beheld again innumerable streams, turbulently +precipitating themselves from the woods, and lashing the base of the +mountains, mossed over with a dark sea-green. + +In this deep hollow such mists and vapours prevailed as hindered my +prying into its recesses; besides, such was the dampness of the air, +that I hastened gladly from its neighbourhood, and passing under the +second portal, beheld with pleasure the sunbeams gilding the Throne +of Moses. + +It was now about ten o'clock, and my guide assured me I should soon +discover the convent. Upon this information I took new courage, and +continued my route on the edge of the rocks, till we struck into +another gloomy grove. After turning about it for some time, we +entered again into the glare of daylight, and saw a green valley +skirted by ridges of cliffs and sweeps of wood before us. Towards +the farther end of this inclosure, on a gentle acclivity, rose the +revered turrets of the Carthusians, which extend in a long line on +the brow of the hill; beyond them a woody amphitheatre majestically +presents itself, terminated by spires of rock and promontories lost +amongst the clouds. + +The roar of the torrent was now but faintly distinguishable, and all +the scenes of horror and confusion I had passed, were succeeded by a +sacred and profound calm. I traversed the valley with a thousand +sensations I despair of describing, and stood before the gate of the +convent with as much awe as some novice or candidate, newly arrived, +to solicit the holy retirement of the order. + +As admittance is more readily granted to the English than to almost +any other nation, it was not long before the gates opened, and whilst +the porter ordered our horses to the stable, we entered a court +watered by two fountains and built round with lofty edifices, +characterized by a noble simplicity. + +The interior portal, opening, discovered an arched aisle, extending +till the perspective nearly met, along which windows, but scantily +distributed between the pilasters, admitted a pale solemn light, just +sufficient to distinguish the objects with a picturesque uncertainty. +We had scarcely set our feet on the pavement when the monks began to +issue from an arch, about half way down, and passing in a long +succession from their chapel, bowed reverently with much humility and +meekness, and dispersed in silence, leaving one of their body alone +in the aisle. + +The Father Coadjutor (for he only remained) advanced towards us with +great courtesy, and welcomed us in a manner which gave me far more +pleasure than all the frivolous salutations and affected greetings so +common in the world beneath. After asking us a few indifferent +questions, he called one of the lay brothers, who live in the convent +under less severe restrictions than the fathers whom they serve, and +ordering him to prepare our apartment, conducted us to a large square +hall with casement windows, and, what was more comfortable, an +enormous chimney, whose hospitable hearth blazed with a fire of dry +aromatic fir, on each side of which were two doors that communicated +with the neat little cells destined for our bedchambers. + +Whilst he was placing us round the fire, a ceremony by no means +unimportant in the cold climate of these upper regions, a bell rang +which summoned him to prayers. After charging the lay brother to set +before us the best fare their desert afforded, he retired, and left +us at full liberty to examine our chambers. + +The weather lowered, and the casements permitted very little light to +enter the apartment: but on the other side it was amply enlivened by +the gleams of the fire, that spread all over a certain comfortable +air, which even sunshine but rarely diffuses. Whilst the showers +descended with great violence, the lay brother and another of his +companions were placing an oval table, very neatly carved and covered +with the finest linen, in the middle of the hall; and, before we had +examined a number of portraits which were hung in all the panels of +the wainscot, they called us to a dinner widely different from what +might have been expected in so dreary a situation. The best fish, +the most exquisite fruits, and a variety of dishes, excellent without +the assistance of meat, were served up with an order and arrangement +that showed it was not the first time they had entertained in the +noblest manner. But I was not more struck with the delicacy of the +entertainment, than with the extreme cleanness and English-like +neatness of the whole apartment and its furniture. A marble +fountain, particularly, gave it a very agreeable aid, and the water +that fell from it into a porphyry shell was remarkable for its +clearness and purity. Our attendant friar was helping us to some +Burgundy, which we pronounced of very respectable antiquity, when the +Coadjutor returned, accompanied by two other fathers, the Secretary +and Procurator, whom he presented to us. You would have been both +charmed and surprised with the cheerful resignation that appeared in +their countenances, and with the easy turn of their conversation. + +The Coadjutor, though equally kind, was as yet more reserved: his +countenance, however, spoke for him without the aid of words, and +there was in his manner a mixture of dignity and humility, which +could not fail to interest. There were moments when the recollection +of some past event seemed to shade his countenance with a melancholy +that rendered it still more affecting. I should suspect he formerly +possessed a great share of natural vivacity (something of it being +still, indeed, apparent in his more unguarded moments); but this +spirit is almost entirely subdued by the penitence and mortification +of the order. + +The secretary displayed a very considerable share of knowledge in the +political state of Europe, furnished probably by the extensive +correspondence these fathers preserve with the three hundred and +sixty subordinate convents, dispersed throughout all those countries +where the court of Rome still maintains its influence. + +In the course of our conversation they asked me innumerable questions +about England, where formerly, they said, many monasteries had +belonged to their order; and principally that of W., which they had +learnt to be now in my possession. + +The Secretary, almost with tears in his eyes, beseeched me to revere +these consecrated edifices, and to preserve their remains, for the +sake of St. Hugo, their canonized Prior. I replied greatly to his +satisfaction, and then declaimed so much in favour of Saint Bruno, +and the holy prior of Witham, that the good fathers grew exceedingly +delighted with the conversation, and made me promise to remain some +days with them. I readily complied with their request, and, +continuing in the same strain, that had so agreeably affected their +ears, was soon presented with the works of Saint Bruno, whom I so +zealously admired. + +After we had sat extolling them, and talking upon much the same sort +of subjects for about an hour, the Coadjutor proposed a walk amongst +the cloisters and galleries, as the weather would not admit of any +longer excursion. He leading the way, we ascended a flight of steps, +which brought us to a gallery, on each side of which a vast number of +pictures, representing the dependent convents, were ranged; for I was +now in the capital of the order, where the General resides, and from +whence he issues forth his commands to his numerous subjects; who +depute the superiors of their respective convents, whether situated +in the wilds of Calabria, the forests of Poland, or in the remotest +districts of Portugal and Spain, to assist at the grand chapter, held +annually under him, a week or two after Easter. + +This reverend father Dom Biclet died about ten days before our +arrival: a week ago they elected the Pere Robinet prior of the +Carthusian convent at Paris in his room, and two fathers were now on +their route to apprise him of their choice, and to salute him General +of the Carthusians. During this interregnum the Coadjutor holds the +first rank in the temporal, and the Grand Vicaire in the spiritual, +affairs of the order; both of which are very extensive. + +If I may judge from the representations of the different convents, +which adorn this gallery, there are many highly worthy of notice, for +the singularity of their situations, and the wild beauties of the +landscapes which surround them. The Venetian Chartreuse, placed in a +woody island, and that of Rome, rising from amongst groups of +majestic ruins, struck me as peculiarly pleasing. Views of the +English monasteries hung formerly in such a gallery, but had been +destroyed by fire, together with the old convent. The list only +remains, with but a very few written particulars concerning them. + +Having amused myself for some time with the pictures, and the +descriptions the Coadjutor gave me of them, we quitted the gallery +and entered a kind of chapel, in which were two altars with lamps +burning before them, on each side of a lofty portal. This opened +into a grand coved hall, adorned with historical paintings of St. +Bruno's life, and the portraits of the Generals of the order, since +the year of the great founder's death (1085) to the present time. +Under these portraits are the stalls for the Superiors, who assist at +the grand convocation. In front appears the General's throne; above, +hangs a representation of the canonized Bruno, crowned with stars. + +Were I, after walking along the dim cloisters, and passing through +the antechapel, faintly illuminated by a solitary lamp, suddenly to +enter this hall at midnight, when the convocation is assembled, and +the synod of venerable fathers, all in solemn order, surrounding the +successor of Bruno, it would be a long while, I believe, before I +could recover from the surprise of so august a spectacle. It must +indeed be a very imposing sight: the gravity they preserve on these +occasions, their venerable age (for Superiors cannot be chosen +young), and the figures of their deceased Generals, dimly discovered +above, may surely be allowed to awe even an heretical spectator into +a momentary respect for the order. For my own part, I must confess, +that the hall, though divested of all this accompaniment, filled me +with a veneration I scarcely knew how to account for; perhaps the +portraits inspired it. They were all well executed, and mostly in +attitudes of adoration. The form of Bruno was almost lost in the +splendour of the stars which hovered over him. I could in some +moments fancy myself capable of plunging into the horror of a desert, +and foregoing all the vanities and delights of the world, to secure +my memory so sublime a consecration. + +The Coadjutor seemed charmed with the respect with which I looked +round on these holy objects; and if the hour of vespers had not been +drawing near, we should have spent more time in the contemplation of +Bruno's miracles, portrayed on the lower panels of the hall. We left +that room to enter a winding passage (lighted by windows in the +roof), that brought us to a cloister six hundred feet in length, from +which branched off two others, joining a fourth of the same most +extraordinary dimensions. Vast ranges of slender pillars extend +round the different courts of the edifice, many of which are thrown +into gardens belonging to particular cells. + +We entered one of them: its inhabitant received us with much +civility, walked before us through a little corridor that looked on +his garden, showed us his narrow dwelling, and, having obtained leave +of the Coadjutor to speak, gave us his benediction, and beheld us +depart with concern. Nature has given this poor monk very +considerable talents for painting. He has drawn the portrait of the +late General, in a manner that discovers great facility of execution; +but he is not allowed to exercise his pencil on any other subject, +lest he should be amused; and amusement in this severe order is a +crime. He had so subdued, so mortified an appearance, that I was not +sorry to hear the bell, which summoned the Coadjutor to prayers, and +prevented my entering any more of the cells. We continued straying +from cloister to cloister, and wandering along the winding passages +and intricate galleries of this immense edifice, whilst the Coadjutor +was assisting at vespers. + +In every part of the structure reigned the most death-like calm: no +sound reached my ears but the "minute drops from off the eaves." I +sat down in a niche of the cloister, and fell into a profound +reverie, from which I was recalled by the return of our conductor; +who, I believe, was almost tempted to imagine, from the cast of my +countenance, that I was deliberating whether I should not remain with +them for ever. + +But I soon roused myself, and testified some impatience to see the +great chapel, at which we at length arrived, after traversing another +labyrinth of cloisters. The gallery immediately before its entrance +appeared quite gay, in comparison with the others I had passed, and +owes its cheerfulness to a large window (ornamented with slabs of +polished marble), that admits the view of a lovely wood. Being +neatly glazed, and free from paintings or Gothic ornaments, it allows +a full blaze of light to dart on the chapel door; which is also +adorned with marble, in a plain but noble style of architecture. + +The father sacristan stood ready on the steps of the portal to grant +us admittance; and, throwing open the valves, we entered the chapel +and were struck by the justness of its proportions, the simple +majesty of the arched roof, and the mild solemn light, equally +diffused over every part of the edifice. No tawdry ornaments, no +glaring pictures, disgraced the sanctity of the place. The high +altar, standing distinct from the walls, which were hung with a rich +velvet, was the only object on which many ornaments were lavished, +and even there the elegance of the workmanship concealed the glare of +the materials, which were silver, solid gold, and the most costly +gems. It being Whit-Sunday, this altar was covered with statues of +gold, shrines, and candelabra of the stateliest shape and most +delicate execution. Four of the latter, of a gigantic size, were +placed on the steps; which, together with part of the inlaid floor +within the choir, were spread with beautiful carpets. + +The illumination of so many tapers striking on the shrines, censers, +and pillars of polished jasper, sustaining the canopy of the altar, +produced a wonderful effect; and, as the rest of the chapel was +visible only by the faint external light admitted from above, the +splendour and dignity of the altar was enhanced by contrast. I +retired a moment from it, and seating myself in one of the +furthermost stalls of the choir, looked towards it, and fancied it +had risen like an exhalation. + +Here I remained several minutes breathing nothing but incense, and +should not have quitted my station soon, had I not been apprehensive +of disturbing the devotions of two aged fathers who had just entered, +and were prostrating themselves before the steps of the altar. These +venerable figures added greatly to the solemnity of the scene; which +as the day declined increased every moment in splendour; for the +sparkling of several lamps of chased silver that hung from the roofs, +and the gleaming of nine huge tapers which I had not before noticed, +began to be visible just as I left the chapel. + +Passing through the sacristy, where lay several piles of rich +embroidered vestments, purposely displayed for our inspection, we +regained the cloister which led to our apartment, where the supper +was ready prepared. We had scarcely finished it, when the Coadjutor, +and the fathers who had accompanied us before, returned, and ranging +themselves round the fire, resumed the conversation about St. Bruno. + +Finding me very piously disposed by the wonders I had seen in the day +to listen to things of a miraculous nature, they began to relate the +inspirations they had received from him, and his mysterious +apparitions. I was all attention, respect, and credulity. The old +Secretary worked himself up to such a pitch of enthusiasm, that I am +very much inclined to imagine he believed, in these moments, all the +marvellous events he related. The Coadjutor being less violent in +his pretensions to St. Bruno's modern miracles, contented himself +with enumerating the noble works he had done in the days of his +fathers, and in the old time before them. + +It grew rather late before my kind hosts had finished their +narrations, and I was not sorry, after all the exercise I had taken, +to return to my cell, where everything invited to repose. I was +charmed with the neatness and oddity of my little apartment; its +cabin-like bed, oratory, and ebony crucifix; in short, everything it +contained; not forgetting the aromatic odour of the pine, with which +it was roofed, floored, and wainscoted. The night was luckily dark. +Had the moon appeared, I could not have prevailed upon myself to have +quitted her till very late; but, as it happened, I crept into my +cabin, and was by "whispering winds soon lulled asleep." + +Eight o'clock struck next morning before I awoke; when, to my great +sorrow, I found the peaks, which rose above the convent, veiled in +vapours, and the rain descending with violence. + +After we had breakfasted by the light of our fire (for the casements +admitted but a very feeble gleam), I sat down to the works of St. +Bruno; of all medleys the strangest. Allegories without end: a +theologico-natural history of birds, beasts, and fishes: several +chapters on paradise; the delights of solitude; the glory of +Solomon's temple; the new Jerusalem; and numberless other wonderful +subjects, full of enthusiasm and superstition. + +Saint Bruno was certainly a mighty genius; I admire the motives which +drew him to this desert; but perhaps before we come to that part of +the story, you will like to know what preceded it. My Saint (for +Bruno has succeeded Thomas of Canterbury) was of noble descent, and +possessed considerable wealth. He was not less remarkable for the +qualities of his mind, and his talents gained him the degree of +Master of the great sciences in the University of Rheims; here he +contracted a friendship with Odo, afterwards Urban the Second. Being +always poetic, singular, and visionary, he soon grew disgusted with +the world, and began early in life to sigh after retirement. His +residence at Grenoble, where he was invited by Hugo, its bishop, +determined him to the monastic state. + +This venerable prelate imparted to him a vision in which he seemed to +behold the desert and mountain beyond his city visible in the dead of +night by the streaming of seven lucid stars that hung directly over +them. Whilst he was ardently gazing at this wonder, a still voice +was heard declaring it the future abode of Bruno--by him to be +consecrated as a retirement for holy men desirous of holding converse +with their God. No shepherd's pipe was to be heard within these +precincts; no huntsman's profane feet to tread these silent regions, +which were to be dedicated solely to their Creator; no woman was to +ascend this mountain, nor violate by her allurements the sacred +repose of its inhabitants. + +Such were the first institutions of the order as the inspired Bishop +of Grenoble delivered them to Bruno, who selecting a few persons +that, like himself, contemned the splendours of the world and the +charms of society, repaired with them to this spot; and, in the +darkest parts of the forests which shade the most gloomy recesses of +the mountains, founded the first convent of Carthusians, long since +destroyed. + +Several years passed away, whilst Bruno was employed in actions of +the most exalted piety; and, the fame of his exemplary conduct +reaching Rome (where his friend had been lately invested with the +papal tiara), the whole conclave was desirous of seeing him, and +entreated Urban to invite him to Rome. The request of Christ's +vicegerent was not to be refused; and Bruno quitted his beloved +solitude, leaving some of his disciples behind, who propagated his +doctrines, and tended zealously the infant order. + +The pomp of the Roman court soon disgusted the rigid Bruno, who had +weaned himself entirely from worldly affections. + +Being wholly intent on futurity, the bustle and tumults of a busy +metropolis became so irksome that he supplicated Urban for leave to +retire; and, having obtained it, left Rome, and immediately seeking +the wilds of Calabria, there sequestered himself in a lonely +hermitage, calmly expecting his last moments. Many are the miracles +which he wrought and which his canonized bones have since effected: +angels (it is said), hovered round him in his departing hour, and +bore him on their wings to heaven. The different accounts of his +translation are almost endless; and as they are all nearly in the +same style, it will be needless to recite them. + +I had scarcely finished taking extracts from the life and writings of +St. Bruno when the dinner appeared, consisting of everything most +delicate which a strict adherence to the rules of meagre could allow. +The good fathers returned as usual with the dessert, and served up an +admirable dish of miracles, well seasoned with the devil and prettily +garnished with angels and moonbeams. {284} + +Our conversation was interrupted, very agreeably, by the sudden +intrusion of the sun, which, escaping from the clouds, shone in full +splendour above the highest peak of the mountains, and the vapours +fleeting by degrees discovered the woods in all the freshness of +their verdure. The pleasure I received from seeing this new creation +rising to view was very lively, and, as the fathers assured me the +humidity of their walks did not often continue longer than the +showers, I left my hall. + +Crossing the court, I hastened out of the gates, and running swiftly +along a winding path on the side of the meadow, bordered by the +forests, enjoyed the charms of the prospect, inhaled the perfume of +the woodlands, and now turning towards the summits of the precipices +that encircled this sacred inclosure, admired the glowing colours +they borrowed from the sun, contrasted by the dark hues of the +forest. Now, casting my eyes below, I suffered them to roam from +valley to valley, and from one stream (beset with tall pines and +tufted beech trees) to another. The purity of the air in these +exalted regions, and the lightness of my own spirits, almost seized +me with the idea of treading in that element. + +Not content with the distant beauties of the hanging rocks and +falling waters, I still kept running wildly along, with an eagerness +and rapidity that, to a sober spectator, would have given me the +appearance of one possessed, and with reason, for I was affected with +the scene to a degree I despair of expressing. + +Whilst I was continuing my course, pursued by a thousand strange +ideas, a father, who was returning from some distant hermitage, +stopped my career, and made signs for me to repose myself on a bench +erected under a neighbouring shed; and, perceiving my agitation and +disordered looks, fancied, I believe, that one of the bears that lurk +near the snows of the mountains had alarmed me by his sudden +appearance. + +The good old man, expressing by his gestures that he wished me to +recover myself in quiet on the bench, hastened, with as much alacrity +as his age permitted, to a cottage adjoining the shed, and returning +in a few moments, presented me some water in a wooden bowl, into +which he let fall several drops of an elixir composed of innumerable +herbs, and having performed this deed of charity, signified to me by +a look, in which benevolence, compassion, and perhaps some little +remains of curiosity were strongly painted, how sorry he was to be +restrained by his vow of silence from inquiring into the cause of my +agitation, and giving me farther assistance. I answered also by +signs, on purpose to carry on the adventure, and suffered him to +depart with all his conjectures unsatisfied. + +No sooner had I lost sight of the benevolent hermit, than I started +up, and pursued my path with my former agility, till I came to the +edge of a woody dell, that divided the meadow on which I was running +from the opposite promontory. Here I paused, and looking up at the +cliffs, now but faintly illumined by the sun, which had been some +time sinking on our narrow horizon, reflected that it would be +madness to bewilder myself, at so late an hour, in the mazes of the +forest. Being thus determined, I abandoned with regret the idea of +penetrating into the lovely region before me, and contented myself +for some moments with marking the pale tints of the evening gradually +overspreading the cliffs, so lately flushed with the gleams of the +setting sun. + +But my eyes were soon diverted from contemplating these objects by a +red light streaming over the northern sky, which attracted my notice, +as I sat on the brow of a sloping hill, looking down a steep hollow +vale, surrounded by the forests, above which rose majestically the +varied peaks and promontories of the mountains. + +The upland lawns, which hang at immense heights above the vale, next +caught my attention. I was gazing alternately at them and the +valley, when a long succession of light misty clouds, of strange +fantastic shapes, issuing from a narrow gully between the rocks, +passed on, like a solemn procession, over the hollow dale, midway +between the stream that watered it below and the summits of the +cliffs on high. + +The tranquillity of the region the verdure, of the lawn, environed by +girdles of flourishing wood, and the lowing of the distant herds, +filled me with the most pleasing sensations. But when I lifted up my +eyes to the towering cliffs, and beheld the northern sky streaming +with ruddy light, and the long succession of misty forms hovering +over the space beneath, they became sublime and awful. The dews +which began to descend, and the vapours which were rising from every +dell, reminded me of the lateness of the hour; and it was with great +reluctance that I turned from the scene which had so long engaged my +contemplation, and traversed slowly and silently the solitary +meadows, over which I had hurried with such eagerness an hour ago. + +Hill appeared after hill, and hillock succeeded hillock, which I had +passed unnoticed before. Sometimes I imagined myself following a +different path from that which had brought me to the edge of the deep +valley; another moment, descending into the hollows between the +hillocks that concealed the distant prospects from my sight, I +fancied I had entirely mistaken my route, and expected every moment +to be lost amongst the rude brakes and tangled thickets that skirted +the eminences around. + +As the darkness increased, my situation became still more and more +forlorn. I had almost abandoned the idea of reaching the convent; +and whenever I gained any swelling ground, looked above, below, and +on every side of me, in hopes of discovering some glimmering lamp +which might indicate a hermitage, whose charitable possessor, I +flattered myself, would direct me to the monastery. + +At length, after a tedious wandering along the hills, I found myself, +unexpectedly, under the convent walls; and, as I was looking for the +gate, the attendant lay brothers came out with lights, in order to +search for me. Scarcely had I joined them when the Coadjutor and the +Secretary came forward, with the kindest anxiety expressed their +uneasiness at my long absence, and conducted me to my apartment, +where Mr. --- was waiting, with no small degree of impatience; but I +found not a word had been mentioned of my adventure with the hermit; +so that, I believe, he strictly kept his vow till the day when the +Carthusians are allowed to speak, and which happened after my +departure. + +We had hardly supped before the gates of the convent were shut, a +circumstance which disconcerted me not a little, as the full moon +gleamed through the casements, and the stars, sparkling above the +forests of pines, invited me to leave my apartment again, and to give +myself up entirely to the spectacle they offered. + +The Coadjutor, perceiving that I was often looking earnestly through +the windows, guessed my wishes, and calling a lay brother, ordered +him to open the gates, and wait at them till my return. It was not +long before I took advantage of this permission, and escaping from +the courts and cloisters of the monastery, all hushed in death-like +stillness, ascended a green knoll, which several ancient pines +strongly marked with their shadows: there, leaning against one of +their trunks, I lifted up my eyes to the awful barrier of surrounding +mountains, discovered by the trembling silver light of the moon +shooting directly on the woods which fringed their acclivities. + +The lawns, the vast woods, the steep descents, the precipices, the +torrents, lay all extended beneath, softened by a pale bluish haze, +that alleviated, in some measure, the stern prospect of the rocky +promontories above, wrapped in dark shadows. The sky was of the +deepest azure; innumerable stars were distinguished with unusual +clearness from this elevation, many of which twinkled behind the fir- +trees edging the promontories. White, grey, and darkish clouds came +marching towards the moon, that shone full against a range of cliffs, +which lift themselves far above the others. The hoarse murmur of the +torrent, throwing itself from the distant wildernesses into the +gloomy vales, was mingled with the blast that blew from the +mountains. It increased. The forests began to wave, black clouds +rose from the north, and, as they fleeted along, approached the moon, +whose light they shortly extinguished. A moment of darkness +succeeded; the gust was chill and melancholy; it swept along the +desert, and then subsiding, the vapours began to pass away, and the +moon returned the grandeur of the scene was renewed, and its imposing +solemnity was increased by her presence. Inspiration was in every +wind. + +I followed some impulse which drove me to the summit of the mountains +before me; and there, casting a look on the whole extent of wild +woods and romantic precipices, thought of the days of St. Bruno. I +eagerly contemplated every rock that formerly might have met his +eyes; drank of the spring which tradition says he was wont to drink +of; and ran to every pine whose withered appearance bespoke a remote +antiquity, and beneath which, perhaps, the saint had reposed himself, +when worn with vigils, or possessed with the sacred spirit of his +institutions. + +It was midnight: the convent bell tolled; for the most solemn hour +of prayer was arrived. I cannot, nor would I, attempt to unfold to +you, in prose, half the strange things of which I thought, and which +I seemed to see, during this wild excursion. However, I owe to it +the poetical humour in which I composed the following lines, written +immediately on my return, in the album of the fathers, during the +stillest watch of the night: + + + +ODE. + + To orisons, the midnight bell +Had toll'd each silent inmate from his cell; + The hour was come to muse or pray, +Or work mysterious rites that shun the day: + My steps some whis'pring influence led, +Up to yon pine-clad mountain's gloomy head: + Hollow and deep the gust did blow, +And torrents dash'd into the vales below. + At length the toilsome height attain'd, +Quick fled the moon, and sudden stillness reign'd. + As fearful turn'd my searching eye, +Glanc'd near a shadowy form, and fleeted by; + Anon, before me full it stood: +A saintly figure, pale, in pensive mood. + Damp horror thrill'd me till he spoke, +And accents faint the charm bound silence broke: + "Long, trav'ller! ere this region near, +Say, did not whisp'rings strange arrest thine ear? + My summons 'twas to bid thee come, +Where sole the friend of Nature loves to roam. + Ages long past, this drear abode +To solitude I sanctified, and God: + 'Twas here, by love of Wisdom brought, +Her truest lore, Self-knowledge, first I sought; + Devoted here my worldly wealth, +To win my chosen sons immortal health. + Midst these dun woods, and mountains steep, +Midst the wild horrors of yon desert deep, + Midst yawning caverns, wat'ry dells, +Midst long, sequestered aisles, and peaceful cells, + No passions fell distract the mind, +To Nature, Silence, and Herself consign'd. + In these still mansions who shall bide, +'Tis mine, with Heaven's appointment, to decide; + But, hither, I invite not all: +Some want the will to come, and more the call; + But all, mark well my parting voice! +Led, or by chance, necessity, or choice + (Ah! with our Genius dread to sport), +Sage lessons here may learn of high import. + Know! Silence is the nurse of Truth; +Know! Temperance long retards the flight of Youth + Learn here, how penitence and pray'r +Man's fallen race for happier worlds prepare; + Learn mild demeanour, void of art, +And bear, amidst the world, the hermit's heart; + Fix, trav'ller! deep this heaven-taught lore: +Know Bruno brings it, and returns no more." + (Half sighed, half smiled his long farewell), +He turn'd, and vanish'd in the bright'ning dell. + + +My imagination was too much disturbed, and my spirits far too active, +to allow me any rest for some time, and I had not long been quieted +by sleep, when I was suddenly awakened by a furious blast, that drove +open my casement, and let in the roar of the tempest, for the night +was troubled. In the intervals of the storm, in those moments when +the winds seemed to pause, the faint sounds of the choir stole upon +my ear; but were swallowed up the next instant by the redoubled fury +of the gust, which was still increased by the roar of the waters. + +I started from my bed, closed the casement, and composed myself as +well as I was able; but no sooner had the sunbeams entered my window, +than I arose, and gladly leaving my cell, hastened to the same knoll +where I had stood the night before. The storm was dissipated, and +the pure morning air delightfully refreshing; every tree, every +shrub, glistened with dew. A gentle wind breathed upon the woods, +and waved the fir-trees on the cliffs, which, free from clouds, rose +distinctly into the clear blue sky. I strayed from the knoll into +the valley between the steeps of wood and the turrets of the convent, +and passed the different buildings, destined for the manufacture of +the articles necessary to the fathers; for nothing is worn or used +within this inclosure which comes from the profane world. + +Traversing the meadows and a succession of little dells, where I was +so lately bewildered, I came to a bridge thrown over the torrent, +which I crossed; and here followed a slight path that brought me to +an eminence, covered with a hanging wood of beach-trees feathered to +the ground, from whence I looked down the narrow pass towards +Grenoble. Perceiving a smoke to arise from the groves which nodded +over the eminence, I climbed up a rocky steep, and, after struggling +through a thicket of shrubs, entered a smooth, sloping lawn, framed +in by woody precipices; at one extremity of which I discovered the +cottage, whose smoke had directed me to this sequestered spot; and, +at the other, a numerous group of cattle, lying under the shade of +some beech-trees, whilst several friars, with long beards and russet +garments, were employed in milking them. + +The luxuriant foliage of the woods, clinging round the steeps that +skirted the lawn; its gay, sunny exposition; the groups of sleek, +dappled cows, and the odd employment of the friars, so little +consonant with their venerable beards, formed a picturesque and +certainly very singular spectacle. I, who had been accustomed to +behold "milk-maids singing blithe," and tripping lightly along with +their pails, was not a little surprised at the silent gravity with +which these figures shifted their trivets from cow to cow; and it was +curious to see with what adroitness they performed their functions, +managing their long beards with a facility and cleanliness equally +admirable. + +I watched all their movements for some time, concealed by the trees, +before I made myself visible; but no sooner did I appear on the lawn, +than one of the friars quitted his trivet, very methodically set down +his pail, and coming towards me with an open, smiling countenance, +desired me to refresh myself with some bread and milk. A second, +observing what was going forward, was resolved not to be exceeded in +an hospitable act, and, quitting his pail too, hastened into the +woods whence he returned in a few minutes with some strawberries, +very neatly enveloped in fresh leaves. These hospitable, milking +fathers, next invited me to the cottage, whither I declined going, as +I preferred the shade of the beeches; so, throwing myself on the dry +aromatic herbage, I enjoyed the pastoral character of the scene with +all possible glee. + +Not a cloud darkened the heavens; every object smiled; innumerable +gaudy flies glanced in the sunbeams that played in a clear spring by +the cottage; I saw with pleasure the sultry glow of the distant +cliffs and forests, whilst indolently reclined in the shade, +listening to the summer hum; one hour passed after another neglected +away, during my repose in this most delightful of valleys. The +cattle were all slunk into the recesses of the wood, and were +drinking at the streams which flow along their shades, before I could +prevail on myself to quit the turf and the beech trees. Never shall +I cease regretting the peaceful moments I spent in Valombre, as never +perhaps, were I even to return to it, may so many circumstances unite +to render it pleasing. + +When I returned unwillingly to the convent, the only topic on which I +could converse was the charms of Valombre; but notwithstanding the +indifference with which I now regarded the prospects that surrounded +the monastery, I could not disdain an offer made by one of the +friars, of conducting me to the summit of the highest peak in the +desert. + +Pretty late in the afternoon I set out with my guide, and, following +his steps through many forests of pine, and wild apertures among +them, strewed with fragments, arrived at a chapel, built on a mossy +rock, and dedicated to St. Bruno. + +Having once more drunk of the spring that issues from the rock on +which this edifice is raised, I moved forward, keeping my eyes fixed +on a lofty green mountain, whence rises a vast cliff, spiring up to a +surprising elevation; and which (owing to the sun's reflection on a +transparent mist hovering around it) was tinged with a pale visionary +light. This object was the goal to which I aspired; and redoubling +my activity, I made the best of my way over rude ledges of rocks, and +crumbled fragments of the mountain interspersed with firs, till I +came to the green steeps I had surveyed at a distance. + +These I ascended with some difficulty, and, leaving a few scattered +beech-trees behind, in full leaf, shortly bid adieu to summer, and +entered the regions of spring; for, as I approached that part of the +mountain next the summit, the trees, which I found there rooted in +the crevices, were but just beginning to unfold their leaves, and +every spot of the greensward was covered with cowslips and violets. + +After taking a few moments' repose, my guide prepared to clamber +amongst the rocks, and I followed him with as much alertness as I was +able, till laying hold of the trunk of a withered pine, we sprang +upon a small level space, where I seated myself, and beheld far +beneath me the vast desert and dreary solitudes, amongst which +appeared, thinly scattered, the green meadows and hanging lawns. The +eye next overlooking the barrier of mountains, ranged through immense +tracts of distant countries; the plains where Lyons is situated; the +woodlands and lakes of Savoy; amongst which that of Bourget was near +enough to discover its beauties, all glowing with the warm haze of +the setting sun. + +My situation was too dizzy to allow a long survey; so turning my eyes +from the terrific precipice, I gladly beheld an opening in the rocks, +through which we passed into a little irregular glen of the smoothest +greensward, closed in on one side by the great peak, and on the +others by a ridge of sharp pinnacles, which crown the range of white +cliffs I had so much admired the night before, when brightened by the +moon. + +The singular situation of this romantic spot invited me to remain in +it till the sun was about to sink on the horizon: during which time +I visited every little cave delved in the ridges of rock, and +gathered large sprigs of the mezereon and rhododendron in full bloom, +which, with a surprising variety of other plants, carpeted this +lovely glen. A luxuriant vegetation, + + +"That on the green turf suck'd the honey'd showers, +And purpled all the ground with vernal flow'rs." + + +My guide, perceiving I was ready to mount still higher, told me it +would be in vain, as the beds of snow that lie eternally in some +fissures of the mountain, must necessarily impede my progress; but, +finding I was very unwilling to abandon the enterprise, he showed me +a few notches in the peak, by which we might ascend, though not +without danger. This prospect rather abated my courage, and the wind +rising, drove several thick clouds round the bottom of the peak, +which increasing every minute, shortly screened the green mountain +and all the forest from our sight. A sea of vapours soon undulated +beneath my feet, and lightning began to flash from a dark angry +cloud, that hung over the valleys, and deluged them with storms, +whilst I was securely standing under the clear expanse of ether. + +But the hour did not admit of my remaining long in this proud +station; so descending, I was soon obliged to pass through the +vapours, and, carefully following my guide (for a false step might +have caused my destruction), wound amongst the declivities, till we +left the peak behind, and just as we reached the green mountain, +which was moistened with the late storm, the clouds fleeted and the +evening recovered its serenity. + +Leaving the chapel of St. Bruno on the right, we entered the woods, +and soon emerged from them into a large pasture, under the grand +amphitheatre of mountains, having a gentle ascent before us, beyond +which appeared the neat blue roofs and glittering spires of the +convent, where we arrived as the moon was beginning to assume her +empire. + +I need not say I rested well after the interesting fatigues of the +day. The next morning, early, I quitted my kind hosts with great +reluctance. The Coadjutor and two other fathers accompanied me to +the outward gate, and there within the solemn circle of the desert +bestowed on me their benediction. + +It seemed indeed to come from their hearts, nor would they leave me +till I was a hundred paces from the convent; and then, laying their +hands on their breasts, declared that if ever I was disgusted with +the world, here was an asylum. + +I was in a melancholy mood when I traced back all the windings of my +road, and when I found myself beyond the last gate, in the midst of +the wide world again, it increased. + +We returned to Les Echelles; from thence to Chamberry, and, instead +of going through Aix, passed by Amecy; but nothing in all the route +engaged my attention, nor had I any pleasing sensations till I beheld +the glassy lake of Geneva, and its lovely environs. + +I rejoiced then because I knew of a retirement on its banks where I +could sit and think of Valombre. + + + +Footnotes: + +{110} Hills in the neighbourhood of Quang-Tong + +{127} The Peries, inhabitants of Ginnistan, live upon perfumes, +etc., etc. See Richardson's Dissertations. + +{133} Thisbe, a favourite greyhound torn to pieces by a mad dog. + +{140} See the description of the Grande Chartreuse. + +{156} The conduct of the emperor, since the death of his mother, +seems to be accomplishing this prediction apace. + +{170a} It is reasonably conjectured that the sea formerly washed the +walls of Padua. + +{170b} T. Livius, L. i., c. i. + +{170c} Lib. v., c. iv., p. 5. + +{171} Called Roscani in Venetian, and reduced to ashes for the glass +manufactory at Murano. + +{182} A nephew of Bertoni, and worthy of his uncle. + +{214} Mentioned by Dante in his "Purgatorio." + +{240} Mem. pour la Vie de Petrarque, vol. i., p. 439. + +{284} Angela are frequently represented, in legendary tales, as +riding on the beams of the moon. + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, DREAMS, WAKING THOUGHTS, ETC. *** + +This file should be named drwt10.txt or drwt10.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, drwt11.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, drwt10a.txt + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN EBOOKS*Ver.02/11/02*END* + diff --git a/old/drwt10.zip b/old/drwt10.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fbddeb2 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/drwt10.zip diff --git a/old/drwt10h.htm b/old/drwt10h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ee1a450 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/drwt10h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,7488 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" /> +<title>Dreams, Waking Thoughts, and Incidents</title> +</head> +<body> +<h2> +<a href="#startoftext">Dreams, Waking Thoughts, and Incidents, by William Beckford</a> +</h2> +<pre> +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Dreams, Waking Thoughts, and Incidents +by William Beckford + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. 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You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: Dreams, Waking Thoughts, and Incidents + +Author: William Beckford + +Release Date: January, 2005 [EBook #7258] +[This file was first posted on April 2, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: US-ASCII +</pre> +<p><a name="startoftext"></a></p> +<p>Transcribed from the 1891 Ward, Lock and Co. edition by David Price, +email ccx074@coventry.ac.uk</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines3"><br /><br /><br /></div> +<h1>Dreams, Waking Thoughts, and Incidents;<br />in a Series of Letters +from Various Parts of Europe</h1> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER I</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p><i>June</i> 19<i>th</i>, 1780. - Shall I tell you my dreams? - To +give an account of my time is doing, I assure you, but little better. +Never did there exist a more ideal being. A frequent mist hovers +before my eyes, and, through its medium, I see objects so faint and +hazy, that both their colours and forms are apt to delude me. +This is a rare confession, say the wise, for a traveller to make: pretty +accounts will such a one give of outlandish countries: his correspondents +must reap great benefit, no doubt, from such purblind observations. +But stop, my good friends; patience a moment! - I really have not the +vanity of pretending to make a single remark, during the whole of my +journey: if - be contented with my visionary way of gazing, I am perfectly +pleased; and shall write away as freely as Mr. A., Mr. B., Mr. C., and +a million others whose letters are the admiration of the politest circles.</p> +<p>All through Kent did I doze as usual; now and then I opened my eyes +to take in an idea or two of the green, woody country through which +I was passing; then closed them again; transported myself back to my +native hills; thought I led a choir of those I loved best through their +shades; and was happy in the arms of illusion. The sun set before +I recovered my senses enough to discover plainly the variegated slopes +near Canterbury, waving with slender birch-trees, and gilt with a profusion +of broom. I thought myself still in my beloved solitude, but missed +the companions of my slumbers. Where are they? - Behind yon blue +hills, perhaps, or t’other side of that thick forest. My +fancy was travelling after these deserters, till we reached the town; +vile enough o’ conscience, and fit only to be passed in one’s +sleep. The moment after I got out of the carriage, brought me +to the cathedral; an old haunt of mine. I had always venerated +its lofty pillars, dim aisles, and mysterious arches. Last night +they were more solemn than ever, and echoed no other sound than my steps. +I strayed about the choir and chapels, till they grew so dark and dismal, +that I was half inclined to be frightened; looked over my shoulder; +thought of spectres that have an awkward trick of syllabling men’s +names in dreary places; and fancied a sepulchral voice exclaiming: “Worship +my toe at Ghent; my ribs at Florence; my skull at Bologna, Sienna, and +Rome. Beware how you neglect this order; for my bones, as well +as my spirit, have the miraculous property of being here, there, and +everywhere.” These injunctions, you may suppose, were received +in a becoming manner, and noted all down in my pocket-book by inspiration +(for I could not see), and hurrying into the open air, I was whirled +away in the dark to Margate. Don’t ask what were my dreams +thither: - nothing but horrors, deep-vaulted tombs, and pale, though +lovely figures, extended upon them; shrill blasts that sung in my ears, +and filled me with sadness, and the recollection of happy hours, fleeting +away, perhaps for ever! I was not sorry, when the bustle of our +coming-in dispelled these phantoms. The change, however, in point +of scenery was not calculated to dissipate my gloom; for the first object +in this world that presented itself, was a vast expanse of sea, just +visible by the gleamings of the moon, bathed in watery clouds; a chill +air ruffled the waves. I went to shiver a few melancholy moments +on the shore. How often did I try to wish away the reality of +my separation from those I love, and attempt to persuade myself it was +but a dream!</p> +<p>This morning I found myself more cheerfully disposed, by the queer +Dutch faces with short pipes and ginger-bread complexions that came +smirking and scraping to get us on board their respective vessels; but, +as I had a ship engaged for me before, their invitations were all in +vain. The wind blows fair; and, should it continue of the same +mind a few hours longer, we shall have no cause to complain of our passage. +Adieu! Think of me sometimes. If you write immediately, +I shall receive your letter at the Hague.</p> +<p>It is a bright sunny evening: the sea reflects a thousand glowing +colours, and, in a minute or two, I shall be gliding on its surface.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER II</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>OSTEND, <i>June</i> 21<i>st</i>.</p> +<p>T’other minute I was in Greece, gathering the bloom of Hymettus, +but now I am landed in Flanders, smoked with tobacco, and half poisoned +with garlic. Were I to remain ten days at Ostend, I should scarcely +have one delightful vision; ’tis so unclassic a place - nothing +but preposterous Flemish roofs disgust your eyes when you cast them +upwards; swaggering Dutchmen and mongrel barbers are the principal objects +they meet with below. I should esteem myself in luck, were the +nuisances of this seaport confined only to two senses; but, alas! the +apartment above my head proves a squalling brattery, and the sounds +which proceed from it are so loud and frequent, that a person might +think himself in limbo, without any extravagance.</p> +<p>Am I not an object of pity, when I tell you that I was tormented +yesterday by a similar cause? But I know not how it is; your violent +complainers are the least apt to excite compassion. I believe, +notwithstanding, if another rising generation should lodge above me +at the next inn, I shall grow as scurrilous as Dr. Smollett, and be +dignified with the appellation of the Younger Smelfungus. Well, +let those make out my diploma that will, I am determined to vent my +spleen, and like Lucifer, unable to enjoy comfort myself, tease others +with the details of my vexatious. You must know, then, since I +am resolved to grumble, that, tired with my passage, I went to the Capuchin +church, a large solemn building, in search of silence and solitude; +but here again was I disappointed. Half-a-dozen squeaking fiddles +fugued and flourished away in the galleries, and as many paralytic monks +gabbled before the altars, while a whole posse of devotees, in long +white hoods and flannels, were sweltering on either side.</p> +<p>Such piety, in warm weather, was no very fragrant circumstance; so +I sought the open air again as fast as I was able. The serenity +of the evening, joined to the desire I had of casting another glance +over the ocean, tempted me to the ramparts. There, at least, thought +I to myself, I may range undisturbed, and talk with my old friends the +breezes, and address my discourse to the waves, and be as romantic and +whimsical as I please; but it happened that I had scarcely begun my +apostrophe, before out flaunted a whole rank of officers, with ladies +and abbés and puppy dogs, singing, and flirting, and making such +a hubbub, that I had not one peaceful moment to observe the bright tints +of the western horizon, or enjoy the series of antique ideas with which +a calm sunset never fails to inspire me.</p> +<p>Finding, therefore, no quiet abroad, I returned to my inn, and should +have gone immediately to bed, in hopes of relapsing into the bosom of +dreams and delusions; but the limbo I mentioned before grew so very +outrageous, that I was obliged to postpone my rest till sugar-plums +and nursery eloquence had hushed it to repose. At length peace +was restored, and about eleven o’clock I fell into a slumber, +during which the most lovely Sicilian prospects filled the eye of my +fancy. I anticipated the classic scenes of that famous island, +and forgot every sorrow in the meadows of Enna.</p> +<p>Next morning, awakened by the sunbeams, I arose quite refreshed by +the agreeable impressions of my dream, and filled with presages of future +happiness in the climes which had inspired them. No other idea +but such as Trinacria and Naples suggested, haunted me whilst travelling +to Ghent. I neither heard the vile Flemish dialect which was talking +around me, nor noticed formal avenues and marshy country which we passed. +When we stopped to change horses, I closed my eyes upon the whole scene, +and was transported immediately to some Grecian solitude, where Theocritus +and his shepherds were filling the air with melody. To one so +far gone in poetic antiquity, Ghent is not the most likely place to +recall his attention; and I know nothing more about it, than that it +is a large, ill-paved, dismal-looking city, with a decent proportion +of convents and chapels, stuffed with monuments, brazen gates, and glittering +marbles. In the great church were two or three pictures by Rubens, +mechanically excellent, but these realities were not designed in so +graceful a manner as to divert my attention from the mere descriptions +Pausanias gives us of the works of Grecian artists, and I would at any +time fall asleep in a Flemish cathedral, for a vision of the temple +of Olympian Jupiter. But I think I hear, at this moment, some +grave and respectable personage chiding me for such levities, and saying, +“Really, Sir, you had better stay at home, and dream in your great +chair, than give yourself the trouble of going post through Europe, +in search of inspiring places to fall asleep. If Flanders and +Holland are to be dreamed over at this rate, you had better take ship +at once, and doze all the way to Italy.” Upon my word, I +should not have much objection to that scheme; and, if some cabalist +would but transport me in an instant to the summit of Ætna, any +body might slop through the Low Countries that pleased.</p> +<p>Being, however, so far advanced, there was no retracting; and as +it is now three or four years since I have almost abandoned the hopes +of discovering a necromancer, I resolved to journey along with Quiet +and Content for my companions. These two comfortable deities have, +I believe, taken Flanders under their especial protection; every step +one advances discovering some new proof of their influence. The +neatness of the houses, and the universal cleanliness of the villages, +show plainly that their inhabitants live in ease and good humour. +All is still and peaceful in these fertile lowlands: the eye meets nothing +but round, unmeaning faces at every door, and harmless stupidity smiling +at every window. The beasts, as placid as their masters, graze +on without any disturbance; and I scarcely recollect to have heard one +grunting swine or snarling mastiff during my whole progress. Before +every village is a wealthy dunghill, not at all offensive, because but +seldom disturbed; and there they bask in the sun, and wallow at their +ease, till the hour of death and bacon arrives, when capacious paunches +await them. If I may judge from the healthy looks and reposed +complexions of the Flemings, they have every reason to expect a peaceful +tomb.</p> +<p>But it is high time to leave our swinish moralities behind us, and +to jog on towards Antwerp. More rich pastures, more ample fields +of grain, more flourishing willows! - a boundless plain before this +city, dotted with cows and flowers, from whence its spires and quaint +roofs are seen to advantage. The pale colours of the sky, and +a few gleams of watery sunshine, gave a true Flemish cast to the scenery, +and everything appeared so consistent, that I had not a shadow of pretence +to think myself asleep.</p> +<p>After crossing a broad, noble river, edged on one side by beds of +osiers beautifully green, and on the other by gates and turrets preposterously +ugly, we came through several streets of lofty houses to our inn. +Its situation in the “Place de Mer,” a vast open space surrounded +by buildings above buildings, and roof above roof, has something striking +and singular. A tall gilt crucifix of bronze, sculptured by some +famous artist, adds to its splendour; and the tops of some tufted trees, +seen above a line of magnificent hotels, have no bad effect in the perspective.</p> +<p>It was almost dusk when we arrived; and as I am very partial to new +objects discovered by this dubious visionary light, I went immediately +a-rambling. Not a sound disturbed my meditations; there were no +groups of squabbling children or talkative old women. The whole +town seemed retired into their inmost chambers; and I kept winding and +turning about, from street to street, and from alley to alley, without +meeting a single inhabitant. Now and then, indeed, one or two +women in long cloaks and mantles glided about at a distance; but their +dress was so shroud-like, and their whole appearance so ghostly, that +I was more than half afraid to accost them. As the night approached, +the ranges of buildings grew more and more dim, and the silence which +reigned amongst them more awful. The canals, which in some places +intersect the streets, were likewise in perfect solitude, and there +was just light sufficient for me to observe on the still waters the +reflection of the structures above them. Except two or three tapers +glimmering through the casements, no one circumstance indicated human +existence. I might, without being thought very romantic, have +imagined myself in the city of petrified people, which Arabian fabulists +are so fond of describing. Were any one to ask my advice upon +the subject of retirement, I should tell him, - By all means repair +to Antwerp. No village amongst the Alps, or hermitage upon Mount +Lebanon, is less disturbed: you may pass your days in this great city +without being the least conscious of its sixty thousand inhabitants, +unless you visit the churches. There, indeed, are to be heard +a few devout whispers, and sometimes, to be sure, the bells make a little +chiming; but walk about, as I do, in the twilights of midsummer, and +be assured your ears will be free from all molestation.</p> +<p>You can have no idea how many strange, amusing fancies played around +me whilst I wandered along; nor how delighted I was with the novelty +of my situation. But a few days ago, thought I within myself, +I was in the midst of all the tumult and uproar of London: now, as if +by some magic influence, I am transported to a city equally remarkable +for streets and edifices, but whose inhabitants seem cast into a profound +repose. What a pity that we cannot borrow some small share of +this soporific disposition! It would temper that restless spirit +which throws us sometimes into such dreadful convulsions. However, +let us not be too precipitate in desiring so dead a calm; the time may +arrive when, like Antwerp, we may sink into the arms of forgetfulness; +when a fine verdure may carpet our Exchange, and passengers traverse +the Strand, without any danger of being smothered in crowds, or lost +in the confusion of carriages.</p> +<p>Reflecting, in this manner, upon the silence of the place, contrasted +with the important bustle which formerly rendered it so famous, I insensibly +drew near to the cathedral, and found myself, before I was aware, under +its stupendous tower. It is difficult to conceive an object more +solemn or imposing than this edifice at the hour I first beheld it. +Dark shades hindered my examining the lower galleries or windows; their +elaborate carved work was invisible; nothing but huge masses of building +met my sight, and the tower, shooting up four hundred and sixty-six +feet into the air, received an additional importance from the gloom +which prevailed below. The sky being perfectly clear, several +stars twinkled through the mosaic of the spire, and added not a little +to its enchanted effect. I longed to ascend it that instant, to +stretch myself out upon its very summit, and calculate from so sublime +an elevation the influence of the planets.</p> +<p>Whilst I was indulging my astrological reveries, a ponderous bell +struck ten, and such a peal of chimes succeeded, as shook the whole +edifice, notwithstanding its bulk, and drove me away in a hurry. +No mob obstructed my passage, and I ran through a succession of streets, +free and unmolested, as if I had been skimming along over the downs +of Wiltshire. My servants conversing before the hotel were the +only sounds which the great “Place de Mer” echoed.</p> +<p>This universal stillness was the more pleasing, when I looked back +upon those scenes of horror and outcry which filled London but a week +or two ago, when danger was not confined to night only, and the environs +of the capital, but haunted our streets at midday. Here, I could +wander over an entire city; stray by the port, and venture through the +most obscure alleys, without a single apprehension; without beholding +a sky red and portentous with the light of fires, or hearing the confused +and terrifying murmurs of shouts and groans, mingled with the reports +of artillery. I can assure you, I think myself very fortunate +to have escaped the possibility of another such week of desolation, +and to be peaceably roosted at Antwerp. Were I not still fatigued +with my heavy progress through sands and quagmires, I should descant +a little longer upon the blessings of so quiet a metropolis, but it +is growing late, and I must retire to enjoy it.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER III</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>ANTWERP, <i>June</i> 23<i>rd.</i></p> +<p>My windows look full upon the Place de Mer, and the sun, beaming +through their white curtains, awoke me from a dream of Arabian happiness. +Imagination had procured herself a tent on the mountains of Sanaa, covered +with coffee-trees in bloom. She was presenting me the essence +of their flowers, and was just telling me that you possessed a pavilion +on a neighbouring hill, when the sunshine dispelled the vision; and +opening my eyes, I found myself pent in by Flemish spires and buildings: +no hills, no verdure, no aromatic breezes, no hope of being in your +vicinity: all were vanished with the shadows of fancy, and I was left +alone to deplore your absence. But I think it rather selfish to +wish you here, for what pleasure could pacing from one dull church to +another, afford a person of your turn? I don’t believe you +would catch a taste for blubbering Magdalens and coarse Madonnas, by +lolling in Rubens’ chair; nor do I believe a view of the Ostades +and Snyders, so liberally scattered in every collection, would greatly +improve your pencil.</p> +<p>After breakfast this morning I began my pilgrimage to all those illustrious +cabinets. First, I went to Monsieur Van Lencren’s, who possesses +a suite of apartments, lined, from the base to the cornice, with the +rarest productions of the Flemish school. Heavens forbid I should +enter into a detail of their niceties! I might as well count the +dew-drops upon any of Van Huysem’s flower-pieces, or the pimples +on their possessor’s countenance; a very good sort of man, indeed; +but from whom I was not at all sorry to be delivered.</p> +<p>My joy was, however, of short duration, as a few minutes brought +me into the courtyard of the Chanoin Knyfe’s habitation; a snug +abode, well furnished with easy chairs and orthodox couches. After +viewing the rooms on the first floor, we mounted a gentle staircase, +and entered an ante-chamber, which those who delight in the imitations +of art rather than of nature, in the likenesses of joint stools and +the portraits of tankards, would esteem most capitally adorned: but +it must be confessed, that, amongst these uninteresting performances, +are dispersed a few striking Berghems and agreeable Polemburgs. +In the gallery adjoining, two or three Rosa de Tivolis merit observation; +and a large Teniers, representing a St. Anthony surrounded by a malicious +fry of imps and leering devilesses, is well calculated to display the +whimsical buffoonery of a Dutch imagination.</p> +<p>I was observing this strange medley, when the Canon made his appearance; +and a most prepossessing figure he has, according to Flemish ideas. +In my humble opinion his Reverence looked a little muddled or so; and, +to be sure, the description I afterwards heard of his style of living, +favours not a little my surmises. This worthy dignitary, what +with his private fortune and the good things of the church, enjoys a +revenue of about five thousand pounds sterling, which he contrives to +get rid of in the joys of the table and the encouragement of the pencil.</p> +<p>His servants, perhaps, assist not a little in the expenditure of +so comfortable an income; the Canon being upon a very social footing +with them all. At four o’clock in the afternoon, a select +party attend him in his coach to an alehouse about a league from the +city; where a table, well spread with jugs of beer and handsome cheeses, +waits their arrival. After enjoying this rural fare, the same +equipage conducts them back again, by all accounts, much faster than +they came; which may well be conceived, as the coachman is one of the +brightest wits of the entertainment.</p> +<p>My compliments, alas! were not much relished, you may suppose, by +this jovial personage. I said a few favourable words of Polemburg, +and offered up a small tribute of praise to the memory of Berghem; but, +as I could not prevail upon Mynheer Knyfe to expand, I made one of my +best bows, and left him to the enjoyment of his domestic felicity.</p> +<p>In my way home, I looked into another cabinet, the greatest ornament +of which was a most sublime thistle by Snyders, of the heroic size, +and so faithfully imitated that I dare say no ass could see it unmoved. +At length, it was lawful to return home; and as I positively refused +visiting any more cabinets in the afternoon, I sent for a harpsichord +of Rucker, and played myself quite out of the Netherlands.</p> +<p>It was late before I finished my musical excursion, and I took advantage +of this dusky moment to revisit the cathedral. A flight of starlings +was fluttering about one of the pinnacles of the tower; their faint +chirpings were the only sounds that broke the stillness of the air. +Not a human form appeared at any of the windows around; no footsteps +were audible in the opening before the grand entrance; and, during the +half hour I spent in walking to and fro beneath the spire, one solitary +Franciscan was the only creature that accosted me. From him I +learnt that a grand service was to be performed next day in honour of +St. John the Baptist, and the best music in Flanders would be called +forth on the occasion. As I had seen cabinets enough to form some +slight judgment of Flemish painting, I determined to stay one day longer +at Antwerp to hear a little how its inhabitants were disposed to harmony.</p> +<p>Having taken this resolution, I formed an acquaintance with Mynheer +Vander Bosch, the first organist of the place, who very kindly permitted +me to sit next him in his gallery during the celebration of high mass. +The service ended, I strayed about the aisles, and examined the innumerable +chapels which decorate them, whilst Mynheer Vander Bosch thundered and +lightened away upon his huge organ with fifty stops.</p> +<p>When the first flashes of execution were a little subsided, I took +an opportunity of surveying the celebrated “Descent from the Cross,” +which has ever been esteemed one of Rubens’s chef d’œuvres, +and for which they say old Lewis Baboon offered no less a sum than forty +thousand florins. The principal figure has, doubtless, a very +meritorious paleness, and looks as dead as an artist could desire; the +rest of the group have been so liberally praised, that there is no occasion +to add another tittle of commendation. A swinging St. Christopher, +fording a brook with a child on his shoulders, cannot fail of attracting +your attention. This colossal personage is painted on the folding-doors +which defend the capital performance just mentioned from vulgar eyes; +and here Rubens has selected a very proper subject to display the gigantic +coarseness of his pencil.</p> +<p>Had this powerful artist confined his strength to the representation +of agonizing thieves and sturdy Barabbases, nobody would have been readier +than your humble servant to offer incense at his shrine, but when I +find him lost in the flounces of the Virgin’s drapery, or bewildered +in the graces of St. Catherine’s smile, pardon me if I withhold +my adoration. After I had most dutifully observed all the Rubenses +in the church, I walked half over Antwerp in search of St. John’s +relics, which were moving about in procession, but an heretical wind +having extinguished all their tapers, and discomposed the canopy over +the Bon Dieu, I cannot say much for the grandeur of the spectacle. +If my eyes were not greatly regaled by the Saint’s magnificence, +my ears were greatly affected in the evening by the music which sang +forth his praises. The cathedral was crowded with devotees and +perfumed with incense. Several of its marble altars gleamed with +the reflection of lamps, and, altogether, the spectacle was new and +imposing. I knelt very piously in one of the aisles while a symphony +in the best style of Corelli, performed with taste and feeling, transported +me to Italian climates, and I was quite vexed, when a cessation dissolved +the charm, to think that I had still so many tramontane regions to pass, +before I could in effect reach that classic country, where my spirit +had so long taken up its abode. Finding it was in vain to wish +or expect any preternatural interposition, and perceiving no conscious +angel, or Loretto-vehicle, waiting in some dark consecrated corner to +bear me away, I humbly returned to my hotel in the Place de Mer, and +soothed myself with some terrestrial harmony; till, my eyes growing +heavy, I fell fast asleep, and entered the empire of dreams, according +to custom, by its ivory portal. What passed in those shadowy realms +is too thin and unsubstantial to be committed to paper. The very +breath of waking mortals would dissipate all the train, and drive them +eternally away; give me leave, therefore, to omit the relation of my +visionary travels, and have the patience to pursue a sketch of my real +ones from Antwerp to the Hague.</p> +<p><i>Monday</i>, <i>June</i> 26<i>th</i>, we were again upon the pavé, +rattling and jumbling along between clipped hedges and blighted avenues. +The plagues of Egypt have been renewed, one might almost imagine, in +this country, by the appearance of the oak-trees: not a leaf have the +insects spared. After having had the displeasure of seeing no +other objects for several hours, but these blasted rows, the scene changed +to vast tracts of level country, buried in sand, and smothered with +heath; the particular character of which I had but too good an opportunity +of intimately knowing, as a tortoise might have kept pace with us without +being once out of breath.</p> +<p>Towards evening, we entered the dominions of the United Provinces, +and had all their glory of canals, track-shuyts, and windmills before +us. The minute neatness of the villages, their red roofs, and +the lively green of the willows which shade them, corresponded with +the ideas I had formed of Chinese prospects; a resemblance which was +not diminished upon viewing on every side the level scenery of enamelled +meadows, with stripes of clear water across them, and innumerable barges +gliding busily along. Nothing could be finer than the weather; +it improved each moment, as if propitious to my exotic fancies; and, +at sunset, not one single cloud obscured the horizon. Several +storks were parading by the water-side, amongst flags and osiers; and, +as far as the eye could reach, large herds of beautifully spotted cattle +were enjoying the plenty of their pastures. I was perfectly in +the environs of Canton, or Ning Po, till we reached Meerdyke. +You know fumigations are always the current recipe in romance to break +an enchantment; as soon, therefore, as I left my carriage, and entered +my inn, the clouds of tobacco which filled every one of its apartments +dispersed my Chinese imaginations, and reduced me in an instant to Holland.</p> +<p>Why should I enlarge upon my adventures at Meerdyke? To tell +you that its inhabitants are the most uncouth bipeds in the universe +would be nothing very new or entertaining; so let me at once pass over +the village, leave Rotterdam, and even Delft, that great parent of pottery, +and transport you with a wave of my pen to the Hague.</p> +<p>As the evening was rather warm, I immediately walked out to enjoy +the shade of the long avenue which leads to Scheveling. It was +fresh and pleasant enough, but I breathed none of those genuine woody +perfumes, which exhale from the depths of forests, and which allure +my imagination at once to the haunts of Pan and the good old Sylvanus. +However, I was far from displeased with my ramble; and, consoling myself +with the hopes of shortly reposing in the sylvan labyrinths of Nemi, +I proceeded to the village on the sea-coast, which terminates the perspective. +Almost every cottage door being open to catch the air, I had an opportunity +of looking into their neat apartments. Tables, shelves, earthenware, +all glisten with cleanliness; the country people were drinking tea, +after the fatigues of the day, and talking over its bargains and contrivances.</p> +<p>I left them, to walk on the beach, and was so charmed with the vast +azure expanse of ocean, which opened suddenly upon me, that I remained +there a full half hour. More than two hundred vessels of different +sizes were in sight, the last sunbeams purpling their sails, and casting +a path of innumerable brilliants athwart the waves. What would +I not have given to follow this shining track! It might have conducted +me straight to those fortunate western climates, those happy isles which +you are so fond of painting, and I of dreaming about. But, unluckily, +this passage was the only one my neighbours the Dutch were ignorant +of. To be sure they have islands rich in spices, and blessed with +the sun’s particular attention, but which their government, I +am apt to imagine, renders by no means fortunate.</p> +<p>Abandoning therefore all hopes at present of this adventurous voyage, +I returned towards the Hague, and, in my way home, looked into a country-house +of the late Count Bentinck, with parterres and bosquets by no means +resembling (one should conjecture) the gardens of the Hesperides. +But, considering that the whole group of trees, terraces, and verdure +were in a manner created out of hills of sand, the place may claim some +portion of merit. The walks and alleys have all the stiffness +and formality our ancestors admired; but the intermediate spaces, being +dotted with clumps and sprinkled with flowers, are imagined in Holland +to be in the English style. An Englishman ought certainly to behold +it with partial eyes, since every possible attempt has been made to +twist it into the taste of his country.</p> +<p>I need not say how liberally I bestowed my encomiums on Count B.’s +tasteful intentions; nor how happy I was, when I had duly serpentized +over his garden, to find myself once more in the grand avenue. +All the way home, I reflected upon the economical disposition of the +Dutch, who raise gardens from heaps of sand, and cities out of the bosom +of the waters. I had still a further proof of this thrifty turn, +since the first object I met was an unwieldy fellow (not able, or unwilling, +perhaps, to afford horses) airing his carcass in a one-dog chair. +The poor animal puffed and panted, - Mynheer smoked, and gaped around +him with the most blessed indifference.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER IV</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p><i>June</i> 30<i>th.</i></p> +<p>I dedicated the morning to the Prince of Orange’s cabinet of +paintings and curiosities both natural and artificial. Amongst +the pictures which amused me the most is a St. Anthony, by Hell-fire +Brughel, who has shown himself right worthy of the title; for a more +diabolical variety of imps never entered the human imagination. +Brughel has made his saint take refuge in a ditch filled with harpies +and creeping things innumerable, whose malice, one should think, would +have lost Job himself the reputation of patience. Castles of steel +and fiery turrets glare on every side, from whence issue a band of junior +devils. These seem highly entertained with pinking poor St. Anthony, +and whispering, I warrant ye, filthy tales in his ear. Nothing +can be more rueful than the patient’s countenance; more forlorn +than his beard; more pious than his eye, which forms a strong contrast +to the pert winks and insidious glances of his persecutors; some of +whom; I need not mention, are evidently of the female kind.</p> +<p>But really I am quite ashamed of having detained you in such bad +company so long; and, had I a moment to spare, you should be introduced +to a better set in this gallery, where some of the most exquisite Berghems +and Wouvermans I ever beheld would delight you for hours. I do +not think you would look much at the Polemburgs; there are but two, +and one of them is very far from capital; in short I am in a great hurry; +so pardon me, Carlo Cignani! if I don’t do justice to your merit; +and excuse me, Potter! if I pass by your herds without leaving a tribute +of admiration.</p> +<p>Mynheer Van Something is as eager to precipitate my motions as I +was to get out of the damps and perplexities of Soorflect yesterday +evening; so mounting a very indifferent staircase, he led me to a suite +of garret-like apartments; which, considering the meanness of their +exterior, I was much surprised to find stored with some of the most +valuable productions of the Indies. Gold cups enriched with gems, +models of Chinese palaces in ivory, glittering armour of Hindostan, +and Japan caskets, filled every corner of this awkward treasury. +What of all its baubles pleased me most was a large coffer of some precious +wood, containing enamelled flasks of oriental essences, enough to perfume +a zenana, and so fragrant that I thought the Mogul himself a Dutchman, +for lavishing them upon this inelegant nation. If disagreeable +fumes, as I mentioned before, dissolve enchantments, such aromatic oils +have doubtless the power of raising them; for, whilst I scented their +fragrance, scarcely could anything have persuaded me that I was not +in the wardrobe of Hecuba, -</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“Where treasur’d odours breath’d a costly scent.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I saw, or seemed to see, the arched apartments, the procession of +venerable matrons, the consecrated vestments: the very temple began +to rise upon my sight, when a Dutch porpoise approaching to make me +a low bow; his complaisance was full as notorious as Satan’s, +when, according to Catholic legends, he took leave of Calvin or Dr. +Faustus. No spell can resist a fumigation of this nature; away +fled palace, Hecuba, matrons, temple, etc. I looked up, and lo! +I was in a garret. As poetry is but too often connected with this +lofty situation, you won’t wonder much at my flight. Being +a little recovered from it, I tottered down the staircase, entered the +cabinets of natural history, and was soon restored to my sober senses. +A grave hippopotamus contributed a great deal to their reestablishment.</p> +<p>The butterflies, I must needs confess, were very near leading me +another dance: I thought of their native hills and beloved flowers, +of Haynang and Nan-Hoa; <a name="citation110"></a><a href="#footnote110">{110}</a> +but the jargon which was prating all around me prevented the excursion, +and I summoned a decent share of attention for that ample chamber which +has been appropriated to bottled snakes and pickled fœtuses.</p> +<p>After having enjoyed the same spectacle in the British Museum, no +very new or singular objects can be selected in this. One of the +rarest articles it contains is the representation in wax of a human +head, most dexterously flayed indeed! Rapturous encomiums have +been bestowed by amateurs on this performance. A German professor +could hardly believe it artificial; and, prompted by the love of truth, +set his teeth in this delicious morsel to be convinced of its reality. +My faith was less hazardously established; and I moved off, under the +conviction that art had never produced anything more horridly natural.</p> +<p>It was one o’clock before I got through the mineral kingdom; +and another hour passed before I could quit with decorum the regions +of stuffed birds and marine productions. At length my departure +was allowable; and I went to dine at Sir Joseph Yorke’s, with +all nations and languages. The Hague is the place in the world +for a motley assembly, and, in some humours, I think such the most agreeable.</p> +<p>After coffee I strayed to the great wood, which, considering that +it almost touches the town with its boughs, is wonderfully forest-like. +Not a branch being ever permitted to be lopped, the oaks and beeches +retain their natural luxuriance, and form some of the most picturesque +groups conceivable. In some places their straight boles rise sixty +feet without a bough; in others, they are bent fantastically over the +alleys, which turn and wind about just as a painter would desire. +I followed them with eagerness and curiosity, sometimes deviating from +my path amongst tufts of fern and herbage.</p> +<p>In these cool retreats I could not believe myself near canals and +windmills; the Dutch formalities were all forgotten whilst contemplating +the broad masses of foliage above, and the wild flowers and grasses +below. Several hares and rabbits scudded by me while I sat; and +the birds were chirping their evening song. Their preservation +does credit to the police of the country, which is so exact and well +regulated as to suffer no outrage within the precincts of this extensive +wood, the depth and thickness of which seem calculated to favour half +the sins of a capital.</p> +<p>Relying upon this comfortable security, I lingered unmolested amongst +the beeches till the ruddy gold of the setting sun ceased to glow on +their foliage; then taking the nearest path, I suffered myself, though +not without regret, to be conducted out of this fresh sylvan scene to +the dusty, pompous parterres of the Greffier Fagel. Every flower +that wealth can purchase diffuses its perfume on one side; whilst every +stench a canal can exhale, poisons the air on the other. These +sluggish puddles defy all the power of the United Provinces, and retain +the freedom of stinking in spite of their endeavours: but perhaps I +am too bold in my assertion; for I have no authority to mention any +attempts to purify these noxious pools. Who knows but their odour +is congenial to a Dutch constitution? One should be inclined to +this supposition by the numerous banqueting-rooms and pleasure-houses +which hang directly above their surface, and seem calculated on purpose +to enjoy them. If frogs were not excluded from the magistrature +of their country (and I cannot but think it a little hard that they +are), one should not wonder at this choice. Such burgomasters +might erect their pavilions in such situations. But, after all, +I am not greatly surprised at the fishiness of their site, since very +slight authority would persuade me there was a period when Holland was +all water, and the ancestors of the present inhabitants fish. +A certain oysterishness of eye and flabbiness of complexion are almost +proofs sufficient of this aquatic descent: and pray tell me for what +purpose are such galligaskins as the Dutch burthen themselves with contrived, +but to tuck up a flouncing tail, and thus cloak the deformity of their +dolphin-like terminations?</p> +<p>Having done penance for some time in the damp alleys which line the +borders of these lazy waters, I was led through corkscrew sand-walks +to a vast flat, sparingly scattered over with vegetation. To puzzle +myself in such a labyrinth there was no temptation, so taking advantage +of the lateness of the hour, and muttering a few complimentary promises +of returning at the first opportunity, I escaped the ennui of this endless +scrubbery, and got home, with the determination of being wiser and less +curious if ever my stars should bring me again to the Hague. To-morrow +I bid it adieu, and if the horses but second my endeavours, shall be +delivered in a few days from the complicated plagues of the United Provinces.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER V</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>HAERLEM, <i>July</i> 1<i>st.</i></p> +<p>The sky was clear and blue when we left the Hague, and we travelled +along a shady road for about an hour, then down sunk the carriage into +a sand-bed, and we were dragged along so slowly that I fell into a profound +repose. How long it lasted is not material; but when I awoke, +we were rumbling through Leyden. There is no need to write a syllable +in honour of this illustrious city: its praises have already been sung +and said by fifty professors, who have declaimed in its university, +and smoked in its gardens. So let us get out of it as fast as +we can, and breathe the cool air of the wood near Haerlem, where we +arrived just as day declined. Hay was making in the fields, and +perfumed the country far and wide with its reviving fragrance. +I promised myself a pleasant walk in the groves, took up Gesner, and +began to have pretty pastoral ideas; but when I approached the nymphs +that were dispersed on the meads, and saw faces that would have dishonoured +a flounder, and heard accents that would have confounded a hog, all +my dislike to the walking filth of the Low Countries returned. +I let fall the garlands I had wreathed for the shepherds; we jumped +into the carriage, and were driven off to the town. Every avenue +to it swarmed with people, whose bustle and agitation seemed to announce +that something extraordinary was going forward. Upon inquiry I +found it was the great fair at Haerlem; and before we had advanced much +farther, our carriage was surrounded by idlers and gingerbread-eaters +of all denominations. Passing the gate, we came to a cluster of +little illuminated booths beneath a grove, glittering with toys and +looking-glasses. It was not without difficulty that we reached +our inn, and then the plague was to procure chambers; at last we were +accommodated, and the first moment I could call my own has been dedicated +to you.</p> +<p>You won’t be surprised at the nonsense I have written, since +I tell you the scene of the riot and uproar from whence it bears date. +At this very moment the confused murmur of voices and music stops all +regular proceedings: old women and children tattling; apes, bears, and +show-boxes under the windows; French rattling, English swearing, outrageous +Italians, frisking minstrels; <i>tambours de basque</i> at every corner; +myself distracted; a confounded squabble of cooks and haranguing German +couriers just arrived, their masters following open-mouthed; nothing +to eat, the steam of ham and flesh-pots all the while provoking their +appetite; Mynheers very busy with the realities, and smoking as deliberately +as if in a solitary lusthuys over the laziest canal in the Netherlands; +squeaking chambermaids in the galleries above, and prudish dames below, +half inclined to receive the golden solicitations of certain beauties +for admittance, but positively refusing them the moment some creditable +personage appears; eleven o’clock strikes; half the lights in +the fair are extinguished; scruples grow less and less delicate; Mammon +prevails, darkness and complaisance succeed. Good-night; may you +sleep better than I shall.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER VI</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>UTRECHT, <i>July</i> 2<i>nd</i>.</p> +<p>Well, thank Heaven, Amsterdam is behind us! How I got thither +signifies not one farthing; it was all along a canal, as usual. +The weather was hot enough to broil an inhabitant of Bengal; and the +odours, exhaling from every quarter, sufficiently powerful to regale +the nose of a Hottentot.</p> +<p>Under these agreeable circumstances we entered the great city. +The Stadt-huys being the only cool place it contained, I repaired thither +as fast as the heat permitted, and walked in a lofty marble hall, magnificently +covered, till the dinner was ready at the inn. That despatched, +we set off for Utrecht. Both sides of the way are lined with the +country-houses and gardens of opulent citizens, as fine as gilt statues +and clipped hedges can make them. Their number is quite astonishing: +from Amsterdam to Utrecht, full thirty miles, we beheld no other objects +than endless avenues and stiff parterres scrawled and flourished in +patterns like the embroidery of an old maid’s work-bag. +Notwithstanding this formal taste, I could not help admiring the neatness +and arrangement of every inclosure, enlivened by a profusion of flowers, +and decked with arbours, beneath which a vast number of round unmeaning +faces were solacing themselves after the heat of the day. Each +lusthuys we passed contained some comfortable party dozing over their +pipes, or angling in the muddy fish-ponds below. Scarce an avenue +but swarmed with female josses; little squat pug-dogs waddling at their +sides, the attributes, I suppose, of these fair divinities.</p> +<p>But let us leave them to loiter thus amiably in their Elysian groves, +and arrive at Utrecht; which, as nothing very remarkable claimed my +attention, I hastily quitted to visit a Moravian establishment at Siest, +in its neighbourhood. The chapel, a large house, late the habitation +of Count Zinzendorf, and a range of apartments filled with the holy +fraternity, are totally wrapped in dark groves, overgrown with weeds, +amongst which some damsels were straggling, under the immediate protection +of their pious brethren.</p> +<p>Traversing the woods, we found ourselves in a large court, built +round with brick edifices, the grass-plats in a deplorable way, and +one ragged goat, their only inhabitant, on a little expiatory scheme, +perhaps, for the failings of the fraternity. I left this poor +animal to ruminate in solitude, and followed my guide into a series +of shops furnished with gew-gaws and trinkets, said to be manufactured +by the female part of the society. Much cannot be boasted of their +handiworks: I expressed a wish to see some of these industrious fair +ones; but, upon receiving no answer, found this was a subject <i>of +which there was no discourse.</i></p> +<p>Consoling myself as well as I was able, I put myself under the guidance +of another slovenly disciple, who showed me the chapel, and harangued +very pathetically upon celestial love. In my way thither, I caught +a glimpse of some pretty sempstresses, warbling melodious hymns as they +sat needling and thimbling at their windows above. I had a great +inclination to have approached this busy group, but the roll of the +brother’s eye corrected me.</p> +<p>Reflecting upon my unworthiness, I retired from the consecrated buildings, +and was driven back to Utrecht, not a little amused with my expedition. +If you are as well disposed to be pleased as I was, I shall esteem myself +very lucky, and not repent sending you so incorrect a narrative. +I really have not time to look it over, and am growing so drowsy, that +you will, I hope, pardon all its errors, when you consider that my pen +writes in its sleep.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER VII</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>SPA, <i>July</i> 6<i>th.</i></p> +<p>From Utrecht to Bois le Duc nothing but sand and heath; no inspiration, +no whispering foliage, not even a grasshopper, to put one in mind of +Eclogues and Theocritus. “But why did you not fall into +one of your beloved slumbers, and dream of poetic mountains? This +was the very country to shut one’s eyes upon without disparagement.” +Why so I did, but the postillions and boatmen obliged me to open them, +as soon as they were closed. Four times was I shoved, out of my +visions, into leaky boats, and towed across as many idle rivers. +I thought there was no end of these tiresome transits; and, when I reached +my journey’s end, was so completely jaded that I almost believed +Charon would be the next aquatic I should have to deal with. The +fair light of the morning (Tuesday, July 4th) was scarcely sufficient +to raise my spirits, and I had left Bois le Duc a good way in arrears +before I was thoroughly convinced of my existence; when I looked through +the blinds of the carriage, and saw nothing but barren plains and mournful +willows, banks clad with rushes, and heifers so black and dismal that +Proserpine herself would have given them up to Hecate. I was near +believing myself in the neighbourhood of a certain evil place, where +I should be punished for all my croakings. We travelled at this +rate, I dare say, fifteen miles, without seeing a single shed: at last, +one or two miserable cottages appeared, darkened by heath, and stuck +in a sand-pit; from whence issued a half-starved generation, that pursued +us a long while with their piteous wailings. The heavy roads and +ugly prospects, together with the petulant clamours of my petitioners, +made me quite uncharitable. I was in a dark, remorseless mood, +which lasted me till we reached Brée, a shabby decayed town, +encompassed by walls and ruined turrets. Having nothing to do, +I straggled about them, till night shaded the dreary prospects, and +gave me an opportunity of imagining them, if I pleased, noble and majestic. +Several of these waning edifices were invested with thick ivy: the evening +was chill, and I crept under their covert. Two or three brother +owls were before me, but politely gave up their pretensions to the spot, +and, as soon as I appeared, with a rueful whoop flitted away to some +deeper retirement. I had scarcely begun to mope in tranquillity, +before a rapid shower trickled amongst the clusters above me, and forced +me to abandon my haunt. Returning in the midst of it to my inn, +I hurried to bed, and was soon lulled asleep by the storm. A dream +bore me off to Persepolis; and led me thro’ vast subterraneous +treasures to a hall, where Solomon, methought, was holding forth upon +their vanity. I was upon the very point of securing a part of +this immense wealth, and fancied myself writing down the sage prophet’s +advice how to make use of it, when a loud vociferation in the street, +and the bell of a neighbouring chapel, dispersed the vision. Starting +up, I threw open the windows, and found it was eight o’clock (Wednesday, +July 5th), and had hardly rubbed my eyes, before beggars came limping +from every quarter. I knew their plaguy voices but too well; and +that the same hubbub had broken my slumbers, and driven me from wisdom +and riches to the regions of ignorance and poverty. The halt, +the lame, and the blind, being restored, by the miracle of a few stivers, +to their functions, we breakfasted in peace, and, gaining the carriage, +waded through sandy deserts to Maestricht: our view, however, was considerably +improved, for a league round the town, and presented some hills and +pleasant valleys, smiling with crops of grain: here and there, green +meadows, spread over with hay, varied the prospect, which the chirping +of birds (the first I had heard for many a tedious day) amongst the +barley, rendered so cheerful, that I began, like them, my exultations, +and was equally thoughtless and serene. I need scarcely tell you, +that, leaving the coach, I pursued a deep furrow between two extensive +corn-fields, and reposed upon a bank of flowers, the golden ears waving +above my head, and entirely bounding my prospect. Here I lay, +in peace and sunshine, a few happy moments; contemplating the blue sky, +and fancying myself restored to the valley at F., where I have passed +so many happy hours, shut out from the world, and concealed in the bosom +of harvests. It was then I first grew so fond of dreaming; and +no wonder, since I have frequently imagined that Ceres did not disdain +to inspire my slumbers; but, half concealed, half visible, would tell +me amusing stories of her reapers; and, sometimes more seriously inclined, +recite the affecting tale of her misfortunes. At midday, when +all was still, and a warm haze seemed to repose on the face of the landscape, +I have often fancied this celestial voice bewailing Proserpine, in the +most pathetic accents. From these sacred moments I resolved to +offer sacrifice in the fields of Enna; to explore their fragrant recesses, +and experience whether the Divinity would not manifest herself to me +in her favourite domain. It was this vow, which tempted me from +my native valleys. Its execution, therefore, being my principal +aim, I deserted my solitary bank and proceeded on my journey. +Maestricht abounds in Gothic churches, but contains no temple to Ceres. +I was not sorry to quit it, after spending an hour unavoidably within +its walls. Our road was conducted up a considerable eminence, +from the summit of which we discovered a range of woody steeps, extending +for leagues; beneath lay a winding valley, richly variegated and lighted +up by the Maese. The evening sun, scarcely gleaming through hazy +clouds, cast a pale, tender hue upon the landscape, and the copses, +still dewy with a shower that had lately fallen, diffused the most grateful +fragrance. Flocks of sheep hung browsing on the acclivities, whilst +a numerous herd were dispersed along the river’s side. I +stayed so long, enjoying this pastoral scene, that we did not arrive +at Liège till the night was advanced, and the moon risen. +Her interesting gleams were thrown away upon this ill-built, crowded +city; and I grieved that gates and fortifications prevented my breathing +the fresh air of the surrounding mountains.</p> +<p>Next morning (July 6th) a zigzag road brought us, after many descents +and rises, to Spa. The approach, through a rocky vale, is not +totally devoid of picturesque merit, and as I met no cabriolets or tituppings +on the chaufée, I concluded that the waters were not as yet much +visited; and that I should have their romantic environs pretty much +to myself. But, alas, how rudely was I deceived! The moment +we entered up flew a dozen sashes. Chevaliers de St. Louis, meagre +Marquises, and ladies of the scarlet order of Babylon, all poked their +heads out. In a few minutes half the town was in motion; tailors, +confectioners, and barbers thrusting bills into our hands with manifold +grimaces and contortions. Then succeeded a grand <i>entré</i> +of <i>valets de place</i>, who were hardly dismissed before the lodging +letters arrived, followed by somebody with a list of <i>les seigneurs</i> +and <i>dames</i> as long as a Welsh pedigree. Half-an-hour was +wasted in speeches and recommendations; another passed before we could +snatch a morsel of refreshment; they then finding I was neither inclined +to go to the ball, nor enter the land where Pharaoh reigneth, peace +was restored, a few feeble bows were scraped, and I found myself in +perfect solitude. Taking advantage of this quiet moment, I stole +out of town, and followed a path cut in the rocks, which brought me +to a young wood of oaks on their summits. Luckily I met no saunterer: +the gay vagabonds, it seemed, were all at the assembly, as happy as +billiards and chit-chat could make them. It was not an evening +to tempt such folks abroad. The air was cool, and the sky lowering; +a melancholy cloud shaded the wild hills and irregular woods at a distance. +There was something so importunate in their appearance, that I could +not help asking their name, and was told they were skirts of the forest +of Ardenne, amongst whose enchanted labyrinths the heroes of Boyardo +and Ariosto roved formerly in quest of adventures. I felt myself +singularly affected whilst gazing upon a wood so celebrated in romance +for feats of the highest chivalry; and, Don Quixote-like, would have +explored its recesses in search of that memorable fountain of hatred, +which (if you recollect the story) was raised by Merlin to free illustrious +knights and damsels from the torments of rejected love. So far +was I advanced in these romantic fancies, that, forgetting the lateness +of the hour, I wandered on, expecting to reach the fountain at every +step; but at length it grew so dusky that, unable to trace back my way +amongst the thickets, in vain I strayed through intricate copses, till +the clouds began to disperse and the moon appeared. Being so placed +as to receive the full play of silver radiance, to my no small surprise, +I beheld a precipice immediately beneath my feet. The chasm was +deep and awful; something like the entrance to a grot discovered itself +below, and if I had not already been disappointed on the score of the +fount, I won’t answer but that I should have flung myself adventurously +down, and tried whether I might not have seen such wonders as appeared +to Bradamante, when cast by Pinnabel, rather impolitely, into Merlin’s +cave. But no propitious light beaming from the cavity, I concluded +times were changed; and searching about me, found at last a shelving +steep, which it was just possible to descend without goat’s heels, +and that’s all.</p> +<p>In my way home, I passed the redoute, and seeing a vast glare of +lustres in its apartments, I ran upstairs and found the gamblers all +eager in storming the Pharaoh Bank: a young Englishman of distinction +seemed the most likely to raise the siege, which increased every instant +in turbulence; but not feeling the least inclination to protract or +to shorten its fate, I left the knights to their adventures, and returned +ingloriously to my inn.</p> +<p>All languages are chattering at the Table d’Hôte, and +all sorts of business transacted under my very windows. The racket +and perfume of this place make me resolve to get out of it to-morrow; +as that is the case, you won’t hear from me till I reach Munich. +Adieu! May we meet in our dreams by the fountain of Merlin, and +from thence take our flight with Astolpho to the moon; for I shrewdly +suspect the best part of our senses are bottled up there; and then, +you know, it will be a delightful novelty to wake up with a clear understanding.</p> +<p>“Indeed, Sir, no Monsieur <i>comme il faut</i>, ever left Spa +in such dudgeon before, unless jilted by a Polish princess, or stripped +by an itinerant Count! You have neither breakfasted at the Vauxhall, +nor attended the Spectacle, nor tasted the waters. Had you but +taken one sip, your ill-humour would have all trickled away, and you +would have felt both your heels and your elbows quite alive in the evening.” +- Granted; but pray tell your postillions to drive off as fast as their +horses will carry them.</p> +<p>Away we went to Aix-la-Chapelle about ten at night, and saw the mouldering +turrets of that once illustrious capital by the help of a candle and +lantern. An old woman asked our names (for not a single soldier +appeared); and traversing a number of superannuated streets without +perceiving the least trace of Charlemagne or his Paladins, we procured +comfortable though not magnificent apartments, and slept most unheroically +sound, till it was time to set forward for Dusseldorf.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 8<i>th</i>. - As we were driven out of the town, I caught +a glimpse of a grove, hemmed in by dingy buildings, where a few water-drinkers +were sauntering along to the sound of some rueful French horns; the +wan greenish light admitted through the foliage made them look like +unhappy souls condemned to an eternal lounge for having trifled away +their existence. It was not with much regret that I left such +a party behind; and, after experiencing the vicissitudes of good roads +and rumbling pavements, found myself, towards the close of evening, +upon the banks of the Rhine.</p> +<p>Many wild ideas thronged into my mind, the moment I beheld this celebrated +river. I thought of the vast regions through which it flows, and +suffered my imagination to expatiate as far as its source. A red, +variegated sky, reflected from the stream, the woods trembling on its +banks, and the spires of Nuys rising beyond them, helped to amuse my +fancy. Not being able to brook the confinement of the carriage, +I left it to come over at its leisure; and, stepping into a boat, rowed +along, at first, by the quivering osiers; then, launching out into the +midst of the waters, I glided a few moments with the current, and resting +on my oars, listened to the hum of voices afar off, while several little +skiffs, like canoes, glanced before my sight, concerning which distance +and the twilight allowed me to make a thousand fantastic conjectures. +When I had sufficiently indulged these extravagant reveries, I began +to cross over the river in good earnest; and being landed on its opposite +margin, travelled forwards to the town.</p> +<p>Nothing but the famous gallery of paintings could invite strangers +to stay a moment within its walls; more crooked streets, more indifferent +houses, one seldom meets with; except soldiers, not a living creature +moving about them; and at night a complete regiment of bugs “marked +me for their own.” Thus I lay, at once both the seat of +war and the victim of these detestable animals, till early in the morning +(Sunday, July 9th), when Morpheus, compassionating my sufferings, opened +the ivory gates of his empire, and freed his votary from the most unconscionable +vermin that ever nastiness engendered. In humble prose, I fell +fast asleep; and remained quiet, in defiance of my adversaries, till +it was time to survey the cabinet.</p> +<p>This collection is displayed in five large galleries, and contains +some valuable productions of the Italian school; but the room most boasted +of is that which Rubens has filled with no less than three enormous +representations of the last day, where an innumerable host of sinners +are exhibited as striving in vain to avoid the tangles of the devil’s +tail. The woes of several fat luxurious souls are rendered in +the highest gusto. Satan’s dispute with some brawny concubines, +whom he is lugging off in spite of all their resistance, cannot be too +much admired by those who approve this class of subject, and think such +strange imbroglios in the least calculated to raise a sublime or a religious +idea.</p> +<p>For my own part, I turned from them with disgust, and hastened to +contemplate a Holy Family by Camillo Procaccini, in another apartment. +The brightest imagination can never conceive any figure more graceful +than that of the young Jesus; and if ever I beheld an inspired countenance +or celestial features, it was here: but to attempt conveying in words +what colours alone can express, would be only reversing the absurdity +of many a master in the gallery, who aims to represent those ideas by +colours which language alone is able to describe. Should you admit +this opinion, you won’t be surprised at my passing such a multitude +of renowned pictures unnoticed; nor at my bringing you out of the cabinet +without deluging ten pages with criticisms in the style of the ingenious +Lady M---.</p> +<p>As I had spent so much time in gazing at Camillo’s divinity, +the day was too far advanced to think of travelling to Cologne; I was +therefore obliged to put myself once more under the dominion of the +most inveterate bugs in the universe. This government, like many +others, made but an indifferent use of its power, and the subject suffering +accordingly was extremely rejoiced at flying from his persecutors to +Cologne.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 10<i>th</i>. - Clouds of dust hindered my making any +remarks on the exterior of this celebrated city; but if its appearance +be not more beautiful from without than within, I defy Mr. Salmon himself +to launch forth very warmly in its praise. But of what avail are +stately palaces, broad streets, or airy markets, to a town which can +boast of such a treasure as the bodies of those three wise sovereigns +who were star-led to Bethlehem? Is not this circumstance enough +to procure it every respect? I really believe so, from the pious +and dignified contentment of its inhabitants. They care not a +hair of an ass’s ear whether their houses be gloomy and ill-contrived, +their pavements overgrown with weeds, and their shops with filthiness, +provided the carcasses of Gaspar, Melchior, and Balthazar might be preserved +with proper decorum. Nothing, to be sure, can be richer than the +shrine which contains these precious relics. I paid my devotions +before it the moment I arrived; this step was inevitable: had I omitted +it, not a soul in Cologne but would have cursed me for a Pagan.</p> +<p>Do you not wonder at hearing of these venerable bodies so far from +their native country? I thought them snug in some Arabian pyramid +ten feet deep in spice; but you see one can never tell what is to become +of one a few ages hence. Who knows but the Emperor of Morocco +may be canonized some future day in Lapland? I asked, of course, +how in the name of miracles they came hither; but found no story of +a supernatural conveyance. It seems the holy Empress Helena, as +great a collectress of relics as the D---s of P. is of profane curiosities, +first routed them out: then they were packed off to Rome. King +Alaric, having no grace, bundled them down to Milan; where they remained +till it pleased God to inspire an ancient archbishop with the fervent +wish of depositing them at Cologne. There these skeletons were +taken into the most especial consideration, crowned with jewels and +filigreed with gold. Never were skulls more elegantly mounted; +and I doubt whether Odin’s buffet could exhibit so fine an assortment. +The chapel containing these beatified bones is placed in a dark extremity +of the cathedral. Several golden lamps gleam along the polished +marbles with which it is adorned, and afford just light enough to read +the following monkish inscription:-</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“CORPORA SANCTORUM RECUBANT HIC TERNA MAGORUM;<br />EX HIS +SUBLATUM NIHIL EST ALIBIVE LOCATUM.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>After I had satisfied my curiosity with respect to the peregrinations +of the consecrated skeletons, I examined their shrine; and was rather +surprised to find it not only enriched with barbaric gold and pearl, +but covered with cameos and intaglios of the best antique sculpture. +Many an impious emperor and gross Silenus, many a wanton nymph and frantic +bacchanal, figure in the same range with the statues of saints and evangelists. +How St. Helena could tolerate such a mixed assembly (for the shrine +was formed under her auspices) surpasses my comprehension. Perhaps +you will say it is no great matter, and give me a hint to move out of +the chapel, lest the three kings and their star should lead me quite +out of my way. Very well; I think I had better stop in time, to +tell you, without further excursion, that we set off after dinner for +Bonn.</p> +<p>Our road-side was lined with beggarly children, high convent walls, +and scarecrow crucifixes, lubberly monks, dejected peasants, and all +the delights of Catholicism. Such scenery not engaging a share +of my attention, I kept gazing at the azure irregular mountains which +bounded our view, and in thought was already transported to their summits. +Various are the prospects I surveyed from this imaginary exaltation, +and innumerable the chimeras which trotted in my brain. Mounted +on these fantastic quadrupeds, I shot swiftly from rock to rock, and +built castles in the style of Piranesi upon most of their pinnacles. +The magnificence and variety of my aërial towers hindered my thinking +the way long. I was still walking with a crowd of phantoms upon +their terraces, when the carriage made a halt. Immediately descending +the innumerable flights of steps which divide such lofty edifices from +the lower world, I entered the inn at Bonn, and was shown into an apartment +which commands the chief front of the Elector’s palace. +You may guess how contemptible it appeared to one just returned from +the court of fancy.</p> +<p>In other respects, I saw it in a very favourable moment; for the +twilight, shading the whole façade, concealed its plaistered +walls and painted pillars; their pediments and capitals being tolerably +well proportioned, and the range of windows beneath considerable, I +gave the architect more credit than he deserved, and paced to and fro +beneath the arcade, as pompously as if arrived at the Vatican; but the +circumstance which rendered my walk in reality agreeable, was the prevalence +of a delicious perfume. It was so dusky, that I was a minute or +two seeking in vain the entrance of an orangery, from whence this reviving +scent proceeded. At length I discovered it; and, passing under +an arch, found myself in the midst of lemon and orange trees, now in +the fullest blow, which form a continued grove before the palace, and +extend, on each side of its grand portal, out of sight. A few +steps separate this extensive terrace from a lawn, bordered by stately +rows of beeches. Beyond, in the centre of this striking theatre, +rises a romantic assemblage of distant mountains, crowned with the ruins +of castles, whose turrets, but faintly seen, were just such as you have +created to complete a prospect. I was the only human being in +the misty extent of the gardens, and was happier in my solitude than +I can describe. No noise disturbed its silence, except the flutter +of moths and trickling of fountains. These undecided sounds, corresponding +with the dimness and haze of the scenery, threw me into a pensive state +of mind, neither gay nor dismal. I recapitulated the wayward adventures +of my childhood, and traced back each moment of a period, which had +seen me happy. Then, turning my thoughts towards future days, +my heart beat at the idea of that awful veil which covers the time to +come. One moment, ’twas the brightest hope that glittered +behind it; the next, a series of melancholy images clouded the perspective. +Thus, alternately swayed by fears and exultation, I passed an interesting +hour in the twilight, ranging amongst the orange trees, or reclined +by the fountain. I could not boast of being perfectly satisfied, +since those were absent, without whom not even the fields of Enna could +be charming. However, I was far from displeased with the clear +streams that bubbled around, and could willingly have dropped asleep +by their margin. Had I reposed in so romantic a situation, the +murmurs of trees and waters would doubtless have invited “some +strange mysterious dream” to hover over me, and perhaps futurity +might have been unveiled.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER VIII</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p><i>July</i> 11<i>th</i>. - Let those who delight in picturesque country +repair to the borders of the Rhine, and follow the road which we took +from Bonn to Coblentz. In some places it is suspended like a cornice +above the waters; in others, it winds behind lofty steeps and broken +acclivities, shaded by woods and clothed with an endless variety of +plants and flowers. Several green paths lead amongst this vegetation +to the summits of the rocks, which often serve as the foundation of +abbeys and castles, whose lofty roofs and spires, rising above the cliffs, +impress passengers with ideas of their grandeur, that might probably +vanish upon a nearer approach. Not choosing to lose any prejudice +in their favour, I kept a respectful distance whenever I left my carriage, +and walked on the banks of the river.</p> +<p>Just before we came to Andernach, an antiquated town with strange +morisco-looking towers, I spied a raft, at least three hundred feet +in length, on which ten or twelve cottages were erected, and a great +many people employed in sawing wood. The women sat spinning at +their doors, whilst their children played among the water-lilies that +bloomed in abundance on the edge of the stream. A smoke, rising +from one of these aquatic habitations, partially obscured the mountains +beyond, and added not a little, to their effect.</p> +<p>Altogether, the scene was so novel and amusing, that I sat half an +hour contemplating it from an eminence under the shade of some leafy +walnuts; and should like extremely to build a moveable village, people +it with my friends, and so go floating about from island to island, +and from one woody coast of the Rhine to another. Would you dislike +such a party? I am much deceived, or you would be the first to +explore the shades and promontories beneath which we should be wafted +along.</p> +<p>But I don’t think you would find Coblentz, where we were obliged +to take up our night’s lodging, much to your taste. ’Tis +a mean, dirty assemblage of plastered houses, striped with paint, and +set off with wooden galleries, in the beautiful taste of St. Giles’s. +Above, on a rock, stands the palace of the Elector, which seems to be +remarkable for nothing but situation. I did not bestow many looks +on this structure whilst ascending the mountain across which our road +to Mayence conducted us.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 12<i>th</i>. - Having attained the summit, we discovered +a vast, irregular range of country, and advancing, found ourselves amongst +downs bounded by forests and purpled with thyme. This sort of +prospect extending for several leagues, I walked on the turf, and inhaled +with avidity the fresh gales that blew over its herbage, till I came +to a steep slope overgrown with privet and a variety of luxuriant shrubs +in blossom; there reposing beneath its shade, I gathered flowers, listened +to the bees, observed their industry, and idled away a few minutes with +great fascination. A cloudless sky and bright sunshine made me +rather loth to move on; but the charms of the landscape, increasing +every instant, drew me forward.</p> +<p>I had not gone far, before a winding valley discovered itself, shut +in by rocks and mountains clothed to their very summits with the thickest +woods. A broad river, flowing at the base of the cliffs, reflected +the impending vegetation, and looked so calm and glassy that I was determined +to be better acquainted with it. For this purpose we descended +by a zigzag path into the vale, and making the best of our way on the +banks of the Lune (for so is the river called), came suddenly upon the +town of Ems, famous in mineral story; where finding very good lodgings, +we took up our abode, and led an Indian life amongst the wilds and mountains.</p> +<p>After supper I walked on a smooth lawn by the river, to observe the +moon journeying through a world of silver clouds that lay dispersed +over the face of the heavens. It was a mild genial evening; every +mountain cast its broad shadow on the surface of the stream; lights +twinkled afar off on the hills; they burnt in silence. All were +asleep, except a female figure in white, with glow-worms shining in +her hair. She kept moving disconsolately about; sometimes I heard +her sigh; and if apparitions sigh, this must have been an apparition. +Upon my return, I asked a thousand questions, but could never obtain +any information of the figure and its luminaries.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 13<i>th</i>. - The pure air of the morning invited me +early to the hills. Hiring a skiff, I rowed about a mile down +the stream, and landed on a sloping meadow, level with the waters, and +newly mown. Heaps of hay still lay dispersed under the copses +which hemmed in on every side this little sequestered paradise. +What a spot for a tent! I could encamp here for months, and never +be tired. Not a day would pass by without discovering some new +promontory, some untrodden pasture, some unsuspected vale, where I might +remain among woods and precipices lost and forgotten. I would +give you, and two or three more, the clue of my labyrinth: nobody else +should be conscious of its entrance. Full of such agreeable dreams, +I rambled about the meads, scarcely knowing which way I was going; sometimes +a spangled fly led me astray, and, oftener, my own strange fancies. +Between both, I was perfectly bewildered, and should never have found +my boat again, had not an old German naturalist, who was collecting +fossils on the cliffs, directed me to it.</p> +<p>When I got home it was growing late, and I now began to perceive +that I had taken no refreshment, except the perfume of the hay and a +few wood strawberries; airy diet, you will observe, for one not yet +received into the realms of Ginnistan. <a name="citation127"></a><a href="#footnote127">{127}</a></p> +<p><i>July</i> 14<i>th</i>. - I have just made a discovery, that this +place as full of idlers and water-drinkers as their Highnesses of Orange +and Hesse Darmstadt can desire; for to them accrue all the profits of +its salubrious fountains. I protest, I knew nothing of all this +yesterday, so entirely was I taken up with the rocks and meadows; no +chance of meeting either card or billiard players in their solitudes. +Both abound at Ems, where they hop and fidget from ball to ball, unconscious +of the bold scenery in their neighbourhood, and totally insensible to +its charms. They had no notion, not they, of admiring barren crags +and precipices, where even the Lord would lose his way, as a coarse +lubber decorated with stars and orders very ingeniously observed to +me; nor could they form the least conception of any pleasure there was +in climbing like a goat amongst the cliffs, and then diving into woods +and recesses where the sun had never penetrated; where there were neither +card-tables prepared nor sideboards garnished; no <i>jambon de Mayence</i> +in waiting; no supply of pipes, nor any of the commonest delights, to +be met with in the commonest taverns.</p> +<p>To all this I acquiesced with most perfect submission, but immediately +left the orator to entertain a circle of antiquated dames and weather-beaten +officers who were gathering around him. Scarcely had I turned +my back upon this polite assembly, when <i>Monsieur l’Administrateur +des bains</i>, a fine pompous fellow, who had been <i>maitre d’hôtel</i> +in a great German family, came forward purposely to acquaint me, I suppose, +that their baths had the honour of possessing Prince Orloff, “<i>avec +sa grande maitresse, son Chamberlain et quelques Dames d’Honneur</i>:” +moreover, that his Highness came hither to refresh himself after his +laborious employments at the Court of Petersburg, and expected (<i>grace +aux eaux</i>!) to return to the domains his august sovereign had lately +bestowed upon him in perfect health, and to become the father of his +people.</p> +<p>Wishing Monsieur d’Orloff all possible success, I should have +left the company at a great distance, had not a violent shower stopped +my career, and obliged me to return to my apartment. The rain +growing heavier, intercepted the prospect of the mountains, and spread +such a gloom over the vale as sank my spirits fifty degrees; to which +a close foggy atmosphere not a little contributed. Towards night +the clouds assumed a more formidable aspect. Thunder rolled awfully +along the distant cliffs, and several rapid torrents began to run down +the steeps. Unable to stay within, I walked into an open portico, +listening to the murmur of the river, mingled with the roar of falling +waters. At intervals a blue flash of lightning discovered their +agitated surface, and two or three scared women rushing through the +storm and calling all the saints in Paradise to their assistance.</p> +<p>Things were in this state, when the orator who had harangued so brilliantly +on the nothingness of ascending mountains, took shelter under the porch, +and entering immediately into conversation, regaled my ears with a woful +narration of murders which had happened the other day on the precise +road I was to follow next morning.</p> +<p>“Sir,” said he, “your route is, to be sure, very +perilous: on the left you have a chasm, down which, should your horses +take the smallest alarm, you are infallibly precipitated; to the right +hangs an impervious wood, and there, sir, I can assure you, are wolves +enough to devour a regiment; a little farther on, you cross a desolate +tract of forest land, the roads so deep and broken, that if you go ten +paces in as many minutes you may think yourself fortunate. There +lurk the most savage banditti in Europe, lately irritated by the Prince +of Orange’s proscription; and so desperate, that if they once +attack, you can expect no mercy. Should you venture through this +hazardous district to-morrow, you will, in all probability, meet a company +of people who have just left the town to search for the mangled bodies +of their relations; but, for Heaven’s sake, sir, if you value +your life, do not suffer an idle curiosity to lead you over such dangerous +regions, however picturesque their appearance.”</p> +<p>I own I felt rather intimidated by so formidable a prospect, and +was very near abandoning my plan of crossing the mountains, and so go +back again and round about, the Lord knows where; but considering this +step would be quite unheroical, I resolved to attribute my fears to +the gloom of the moment, and the dejection it occasioned. It was +almost nine o’clock before my kind adviser ceased inspiring me +with terrors; then, finding myself at liberty, I retired to bed, not +under the most agreeable impressions; and after tossing and tumbling +in the agitation of tumultuous slumbers, I started up at seven in the +morning of July 15th, ordered the horses, and set forward, without further +dilemmas. Though it had thundered almost the whole night, the +air was still clogged with vapours, the mountains bathed in humid clouds, +and the scene I had so warmly admired no longer discernible. Proceeding +along the edge of the precipices I had been forewarned of, for about +an hour, and escaping that peril at least, we traversed the slopes of +a rude, heathy hill, in instantaneous expectation of foes and murderers. +A misty rain prevented us seeing above ten yards before us, and every +uncouth oak or rocky fragment we approached seemed lurking spies or +gigantic enemies. One time the murmur of the wind among invisible +woods of beech, sounded like the wail of distress; and at another the +noise of a torrent we could not discover, counterfeited the report of +musquetry. In this suspicious manner we journeyed through the +forest which had so recently been the scene of assaults and depredations. +At length, after winding several restless hours amongst its dreary avenues, +we emerged into open daylight. The sky cleared, a cultivated vale +lay before us, and the evening sun, gleaming bright through the vapours, +cast a cheerful look upon some corn-fields, and seemed to promise better +times. A few minutes more brought us safe to the village of Viesbaden, +where we slept in peace and tranquillity.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 16<i>th</i>. - Our apprehensions entirely dispersed, +we rose light and refreshed from our slumbers, and passing through Mayence, +Oppenheim, and Worms, travelled gaily over the plain in which Mannheim +is situated. The sun set before we arrived there, and it was by +the mild gleams of the rising moon, that I first beheld the vast electoral +palace, and those long straight streets and neat white houses, which +distinguish this elegant capital from almost every other.</p> +<p>Numbers of well-dressed people were amusing themselves with music +and fireworks in the squares and open spaces; other groups appeared +conversing in circles before their doors, and enjoying the serenity +of the evening. Almost every window bloomed with carnations; and +we could hardly cross a street without hearing the German flute. +A scene of such happiness and refinement contrasted in the most agreeable +manner with the dismal prospects we had left behind. No storms, +no frightful chasms, were here to alarm us, no ruffians or lawless plunderers. +All around was peace, security, and contentment in their most engaging +attire.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 17<i>th</i>. - Though all impatience to reach that delightful +classic region which already possesses, as I have often said, the better +half of my spirit, I could not think of leaving Mannheim unexplored; +and therefore resolved to give up the day to the halls and galleries +of the electoral palace. Those, which contain the cabinet of paintings +and sculptures in ivory, form a regular suite of nine immense apartments, +about three hundred and seventy-two feet in length, well-proportioned +and uniformly floored with inlaid wood. Each room has ample folding-doors +richly gilt and varnished. When seen in perspective these entrances +have the most magnificent effect imaginable. Nothing can give +nobler ideas of space than such an enfilade of saloons unencumbered +by heavy furniture, where the eyes range without interruption: I wandered +alone from one to the other, and was never wearied with contemplating +the variety of pictures which enliven the scene, and convey the highest +idea of the collector’s taste. When my curiosity was a little +satisfied, I left this amusing series of apartments with regret, visited +the library which the present Elector Palatine has formed, upon the +same great scale that characterizes his other collections, and, after +viewing the rest of the palace, saw the opera house, which may boast +of having contained one of the first bands in Europe: from thence I +returned home in a very musical humour.</p> +<p>An excellent harpsichord seconded this disposition, which lasted +me till late in the evening; when growing drowsy, I yielded to the influence +of sleep, and was in an instant transported to a far more delightful +palace than that of the elector; where I expatiated in perfumed apartments +with yellow light, and conversed with none but Albano and Claude Lorrain, +till the beams of the morning sun entered my chamber, and forced my +visiting companions to fly murmuring to the shades. I cannot say +but I was sorry to leave Mannheim, though my acquaintance with it was +entirely confined to inanimate objects. The cheerful air and free +range of the galleries would be sufficient, for several days, for my +amusement; as you know I could people them with phantoms. Not +many leagues out of town, lie the famous gardens of Schweidsing. +The weather being extremely warm, we were glad to avail ourselves of +their shades. There are a great many fountains inclosed by thickets +of shrubs, and cool alleys which lead to arbours of trellis-work, festooned +with nasturtiums and convolvuluses. Several catalpas and sumachs +in full flower gave considerable richness to the scenery; and whilst +we walked amongst them, a fresh breeze gently waved their summits. +The tall poplars and acacias, quivering with the air, cast innumerable +shadows on the intervening plats of greensward, and, as they moved their +branches, discovered other walks beyond, and distant jets of water rising +above their foliage, and sparkling in the sun. After passing a +multitude of shady avenues, terminated by temples or groups of statues, +we followed our guide through a kind of arched bower to a little opening +in the wood, neatly paved with different coloured pebbles. On +one side, appeared niches and alcoves, ornamented with spars and polished +marbles; on the other, an aviary; in front, a superb pavilion, with +baths, porticos, and cabinets, fitted up in the most elegant and luxurious +style. The song of exotic birds; the freshness of the surrounding +verdure heightened by falling streams; and that dubious poetic light +admitted through thick foliage, so agreeable after the glare of a sultry +day, detained me for some time in an alcove reading Spenser, and imagining +myself but a few paces removed from the Idle Lake. I would fain +have loitered an hour more in this enchanted bower, had not the gardener, +whose patience was quite exhausted, and who had never heard of the Red-Cross +Knight and his achievements, dragged me away to a sunburnt, contemptible +hillock, commanding the view of a serpentine ditch, and decorated with +the title of Jardin Anglois. Some object like decayed limekilns +and mouldering ovens, is disposed in an amphitheatrical form, on the +declivity of this tremendous eminence: and there is to be ivy, and a +cascade, and what not, as my conductor observed. A glance was +all I bestowed on this caricature upon English gardens; I then went +off in a huff at being chased from my bower, and grumbled all the road +to Entsweigen; where, to our misfortune, we lay amidst hogs and vermin, +who amply revenged my quarrels with their country.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 20<i>th</i>. - After travelling a post or two, we came +in sight of a green moor, with many insulated woods and villages; the +Danube sweeping majestically along, and the city of Ulm rising upon +its banks. The fields in its neighbourhood were overspread with +cloths bleaching in the sun, and waiting for barks which convey them +down the great river, in ten days, to Vienna, and from thence through +Hungary, into the midst of the Turkish Empire. I almost envied +the merchants their voyage, and descending to the edge of the stream, +proffered my orisons to Father Danube, beseeching him to remember me +to the regions through which he flows. I promised him an altar +and solemn rites, should he grant my request, and was very idolatrous, +until the shadows lengthening over the unlimited plains on his margin, +reminded me that the sun would be shortly sunk, and that I had still +above fifteen miles to go. Gathering a purple iris that grew upon +the bank, I wore it to his honour; and have reason to fancy my piety +was rewarded, as not a fly or an insect dared to buzz about me the whole +evening.</p> +<p>You never saw a brighter sky nor more glowing clouds than gilded +our horizon. The air was impregnated with the perfume of clover, +and for ten miles we beheld no other objects than smooth levels enamelled +with flowers, and interspersed with thickets of oak, beyond which appeared +a long series of mountains, that distance and the evening tinged with +an interesting azure. Such were the very spots for youthful games +and exercises, open spaces for tilts, and spreading shades to screen +the spectators.</p> +<p>Father Lafiteau tells us, there are many such vast and flowery meads +in the interior of America, to which the roving tribes of Indians repair +once or twice in a century to settle the rights of the chase, and lead +their solemn dances; and so deep an impression do these assemblies leave +on the minds of the savages, that the highest ideas they entertain of +future felicity consist in the perpetual enjoyment of songs and dances +upon the green boundless lawns of their elysium. In the midst +of these visionary plains rises the abode of Aneantsic, encircled by +choirs of departed chieftains leaping in cadence to the mournful sound +of spears as they ring on the shell of the tortoise. Their favourite +attendants, long separated from them whilst on earth, are restored again +in this ethereal region, and skim freely over the vast level space; +now hailing one group of beloved friends, and now another. Mortals +newly ushered by death into this world of pure blue sky and boundless +meads, see the long-lost objects of their affection advancing across +the lawn to meet them. Flights of familiar birds, the purveyors +of many an earthly chase, once more attend their progress, whilst the +shades of their faithful dogs seem coursing each other below. +Low murmurs and tinkling sounds fill the whole region, and, as its new +denizens proceed, increase in melody, till, unable to resist the thrilling +music, they spring forward in ecstasies to join the eternal round.</p> +<p>A share of this celestial transport seemed communicated to me whilst +my eyes wandered over the plain, which appeared to widen and extend +in proportion as the twilight prevailed.</p> +<p>The dusky hour, favourable to conjurations, allowed me to believe +the spirits of departed friends not far removed from the clouds, which, +to all appearance, reposed at the extremity of the prospect, and tinted +the surface of the horizon with ruddy colours. This glow still +lingered upon the verge of the landscape, after the sun disappeared; +and ’twas in those peaceful moments, when no sound but the browsing +of cattle reached me, that I imagined benign looks were cast upon me +from the golden vapours, and I seemed to catch glimpses of faint forms +moving, amongst them, which were once so dear; and even thought my ears +affected by well-known voices, long silent upon earth. When the +warm hues of the sky were gradually fading, and the distant thickets +began to assume a deeper and more melancholy blue, I fancied a shape +like Thisbe <a name="citation133"></a><a href="#footnote133">{133}</a> +shot swiftly along; and, sometimes halting afar off, cast an affectionate +look upon her old master, that seemed to say, When you draw near the +last inevitable hour, and the pale countries of Aneantsic are stretched +out before you, I will precede your footsteps, and guide them safe through +the wild labyrinths which separate this world from yours. I was +so possessed with the ideas and so full of the remembrance of that poor, +affectionate creature, whose miserable end you were the witness of, +that I did not, for several minutes, perceive our arrival at Guntsberg. +Hurrying to bed, I seemed in my slumbers to pass that interdicted boundary +which divides our earth from the region of Indian happiness. Thisbe +ran nimbly before me; her white form glimmered amongst dusky forests; +she led me into an infinitely spacious plain, where I heard vast multitudes +discoursing upon events to come. What further passed must never +be revealed. I awoke in tears, and could hardly find spirits enough +to look around me, till we were driving through the midst of Augsburg.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 21<i>st</i>. - We dined and rambled about this renowned +city till evening. The colossal paintings on the walls of almost +every considerable building gave it a strange air, which pleases upon +the score of novelty.</p> +<p>Having passed a number of streets decorated in this exotic manner, +we found ourselves suddenly before the public hall, by a noble statue +of Augustus, under whose auspices the colony was formed. Which +way soever we turned, our eyes met some remarkable edifice, or marble +basin into which several groups of sculptured river-gods pour a profusion +of waters. These stately fountains and bronze statues, the extraordinary +size and loftiness of the buildings, the towers rising in perspective, +and the Doric portal of the town-house, answered in some measure the +idea Montfaucon gives us of the scene of an ancient tragedy. Whenever +a pompous Flemish painter attempts a representation of Troy, and displays +in his background those streets of palaces described in the Iliad, Augsburg, +or some such city, may easily be traced. Sometimes a corner of +Antwerp discovers itself; and generally, above a Corinthian portico, +rises a Gothic spire. Just such a jumble may be viewed from the +statue of Augustus, under which I remained till the Concierge came, +who was to open the gates of the town-house, and show me its magnificent +hall.</p> +<p>I wished for you exceedingly when, ascending a flight of a hundred +steps, I entered it through a portal, supported by tall pillars and +crowned with a majestic pediment. Upon advancing, I discovered +five more entrances equally grand, with golden figures of guardian genii +leaning over the entablature; and saw, through a range of windows, each +above thirty feet high, and nearly level with the marble pavement, the +whole city, with all its roofs and spires, beneath my feet. The +pillars, cornices, and panels of this striking apartment are uniformly +tinged with brown and gold; and the ceiling, enriched with emblematical +paintings and innumerable canopies of carved work, casts a very magisterial +shade. Upon the whole, I should not be surprised at a burgomaster +assuming a formidable dignity in such a room.</p> +<p>I must confess it had a somewhat similar effect upon me; and I descended +the flight of steps with as much pomposity as if a triumphal car waited +at my feet, or as if on the point of giving audience to the Queen of +Sheba. It happened to be a Saint’s day, and half the inhabitants +of Augsburg were gathered together in the opening before their hall; +the greatest numbers, especially the women, still exhibiting the very +identical dresses which Hollar engraved. My lofty gait imposed +upon this primitive assembly, which receded to give me passage with +as much silent respect as if I had really been the wise sovereign of +Israel. When I got home, an execrable supper was served up to +my majesty; I scolded in an unroyal style, and soon convinced myself +I was no longer Solomon.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 22<i>nd</i>. - Joy to the Electors of Bavaria! for planting +such extensive woods of fir in their dominions as shade over the chief +part of the road from Augsburg to Munich. Near the last-mentioned +city, I cannot boast of the scenery changing to advantage. Instead +of flourishing woods and verdure, we beheld a parched dreary flat, diversified +by fields of withering barley, and stunted avenues drawn formally across +them; now and then a stagnant pool, and sometimes a dunghill, by way +of regale. However, the wild rocks of the Tyrol terminate the +view, and to them imagination may fly, and walk amidst springs and lilies +of her own creation. I speak from authority, having had the pleasure +of anticipating an evening in this romantic style.</p> +<p>Tuesday next is the grand fair, with horse-races and junketings: +a piece of news I was but too soon acquainted with; for the moment we +entered the town, good-natured creatures from all quarters advised us +to get out of it; since traders and harlequins had filled every corner +of the place, and there was not a lodging to be procured. The +inns, to be sure, were like hives of industrious animals sorting their +merchandise, and preparing their goods for sale. Yet, in spite +of difficulties, we got possession of a quiet apartment.</p> +<p><i>July 23</i>rd. - We were driven in the evening to Nymphenburg, +the Elector’s country palace, whose bosquets, jets-d’eaux, +and parterres are the pride of the Bavarians. The principal platform +is all of a glitter with gilded Cupids and shining serpents spouting +at every pore. Beds of poppies, hollyhocks, scarlet lychnis, and +the most flaming flowers, border the edge of the walks, which extend +till the perspective meets, and swarm with ladies and gentlemen in parti-coloured +raiment. The Queen of Golconda’s gardens in a French opera +are scarcely more gaudy and artificial. Unluckily, too, the evening +was fine, and the sun so powerful that we were half roasted before we +could cross the great avenue and enter the thickets, which barely conceal +a very splendid hermitage, where we joined Mr. and Mrs. T., and a party +of fashionable Bavarians.</p> +<p>Amongst the ladies was Madame la Contesse, I forget who, a production +of the venerable Haslang, with her daughter, Madame de ---, who has +the honour of leading the Elector in her chains. These goddesses +stepping into a car, vulgarly called a cariole, the mortals followed, +and explored alley after alley and pavilion after pavilion. Then, +having viewed Pagodenburg, which is, as they told me, all Chinese; and +Marienburg, which is most assuredly all tinsel; we paraded by a variety +of fountains in full squirt, and though they certainly did their best +(for many were set a-going on purpose), I cannot say I greatly admired +them.</p> +<p>The ladies were very gaily attired, and the gentlemen, as smart as +swords, bags, and pretty clothes could make them, looked exactly like +the fine people one sees represented in a coloured print. Thus +we kept walking genteelly about the orangery, till the carriage drew +up and conveyed us to Mr. T’s.</p> +<p>Immediately after supper, we drove once more out of town, to a garden +and tea-room, where all degrees and ages dance jovially together till +morning. Whilst one party wheel briskly away in the valz, another +amuse themselves in a corner with cold meat and rhenish. That +despatched, out they whisk amongst the dancers, with an impetuosity +and liveliness I little expected to have found in Bavaria. After +turning round and round, with a rapidity that is quite inconceivable +to an English dancer, the music changes to a slower movement, and then +follows a succession of zig-zag minuets, performed by old and young, +straight and crooked, noble and plebeian, all at once, from one end +of the room to the other. Tallow candles snuffing and stinking, +dishes changing, heads scratching, and all sorts of performances going +forward at the same moment; the flutes, oboes, and bassoons snorting +and grunting with peculiar emphasis; now fast, now slow, just as Variety +commands, who seems to rule the ceremonial of this motley assembly, +where every distinction of rank and privilege is totally forgotten. +Once a week, on Sundays that is to say, the rooms are open, and Monday +is generally somewhat advanced before they are deserted. If good +humour and coarse merriment are all that people desire, here they are +to be found in perfection, though at the expense of toes and noses. +Both these extremities of my person suffered most cruelly; and I was +not sorry to retire about one in the morning to a purer atmosphere.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 24<i>th</i>. - Custom condemned us to visit the palace, +which glares with looking-glass, gilding, and cut velvet, most sumptuously +fringed and spangled. The chapel, though small, is richer than +anything Crœsus ever possessed, let them say what they will. +Not a corner but shines with gold, diamonds, and scraps of martyrdom +studded with jewels. I had the delight of treading amethysts and +the richest gems under foot, which, if you recollect, Apuleius thinks +such supreme felicity. Alas! I was quite unworthy of the honour, +and had much rather have trodden the turf of the mountains. Mammon +would never have taken his eyes off the pavement; mine soon left the +contemplation of it, and fixed on St. Peter’s thumb, enshrined +with a degree of elegance, and adorned by some malapert enthusiast with +several of the most delicate antique cameos I ever beheld; the subjects, +Ledas and sleeping Venuses, are a little too pagan, one should think, +for an apostle’s finger.</p> +<p>From this precious repository we were conducted through the public +garden to a large hall, where part of the Sleitzom collection is piled +up, till a gallery can be finished for its reception. ’Twas +a matter of great favour to view, in this state, the pieces that compose +it, - a very imperfect one too, since some of the best were under operation. +But I would not upon any account have missed the sight of Rubens’s +“Massacre of the Innocents.” Such expressive horrors +were never yet transferred to canvas, and Moloch himself might have +gazed at them with pleasure.</p> +<p>After dinner we were led round the churches; and if you are as much +tired with reading my voluminous descriptions, as I was with the continual +repetition of altars and reliquaries, the Lord have mercy upon you! +However, your delivery draws near. The post is going out, and +to-morrow we shall begin to mount the cliffs of the Tyrol; but don’t +be afraid of any long-winded epistles from their summits: I shall be +too well employed in ascending them. Just now, as I have lain +by a long while, I grow sleek, and scribble on in mere wantonness of +spirit. What excesses such a correspondence is capable of, you +will soon be able to judge.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 25<i>th</i>. - The noise of the people thronging to the +fair did not allow me to slumber very long in the morning. When +I got up, every street was crowded with Jews and mountebanks, holding +forth and driving their bargains in all the energetic vehemence of the +German tongue. Vast quantities of rich merchandise glittered in +the shops as we passed along to the gates. Heaps of fruit and +sweetmeats set half the grandams and infants in the place a-cackling +with felicity.</p> +<p>Mighty glad was I to make my escape; and in about an hour or two, +we entered a wild tract of country, not unlike the skirts of a princely +park. A little farther on stands a cluster of cottages, where +we stopped to give our horses some bread, and were pestered with swarms +of flies, most probably journeying to Munich fair, there to feast upon +sugared tarts and bottle-noses.</p> +<p>The next post brought us over hill and dale, grove and meadow, to +a narrow plain, watered by rivulets and surrounded by cliffs, under +which lies scattered the village of Wollrathshausen, consisting of several +cottages, built entirely of fir, with strange galleries hanging over +the way. Nothing can be neater than the carpentry of these simple +edifices, nor more solid than their construction; many of them looked +as if they had braved the torrents which fell from the mountains a century +ago; and, if one may judge from the hoary appearance of the inhabitants, +here are patriarchs who remember the Emperor Lewis of Bavaria. +Orchards of cherry-trees impend from the steeps above the village, which +to our certain knowledge produce no contemptible fruit.</p> +<p>Having refreshed ourselves with their cooling juice, we struck into +a grove of pines, the tallest and most flourishing perhaps we ever beheld. +There seemed no end to these forests, save where little irregular spots +of herbage, fed by cattle, intervened. Whenever we gained an eminence +it was only to discover more ranges of dark wood, variegated with meadows +and glittering streams. White clover and a profusion of sweet-scented +flowers clothe their banks; above, waves the mountain-ash, glowing with +scarlet berries; and beyond, rise hills and rocks and mountains, piled +upon one another, and fringed with fir to their topmost acclivities. +Perhaps the Norwegian forests alone equal these in grandeur and extent. +Those which cover the Swiss highlands rarely convey such vast ideas. +There, the woods climb only half way up their ascents, and then are +circumscribed by snows: here, no boundaries are set to their progress, +and the mountains, from their bases to their summits, display rich unbroken +masses of vegetation.</p> +<p>As we were surveying this prospect, a thick cloud, fraught with thunder, +obscured the transparence of the horizon, whilst flashes startled our +horses, whose snorts and stampings resounded through the woods. +What from the shade of the firs and the impending tempests, we travelled +several miles almost in total darkness. One moment the clouds +began to fleet, and a faint gleam promised serener hours, but the next +all was gloom and terror; presently a deluge of rain poured down upon +the valley, and in a short time the torrents, beginning to swell, raged +with such fury as to be with difficulty forded. Twilight drew +on, just as we had passed the most terrible; then ascending a steep +hill under a mountain, whose pines and birches rustled with the storm, +we saw a little lake below. A deep azure haze veiled its eastern +shore, and lowering vapours concealed the cliffs to the south; but over +its western extremities a few transparent clouds, the remains of the +rays of a struggling sunset, were suspended, which streamed on the surface +of the waters, and tinged with tender pink the brow of a verdant promontory.</p> +<p>I could not help fixing myself on the banks of the lake for several +minutes, till this apparition was lost, and confounded with the shades +of night. Looking round, I shuddered at a craggy mountain, clothed +in dark forests and almost perpendicular, that was absolutely to be +surmounted before we could arrive at Wallersee. No house, not +even a shed appearing, we were forced to ascend the peak, and penetrate +these awful groves.</p> +<p>Great praise is due to the directors of the roads across them, which, +considering their situation, are wonderfully fine. Mounds of stone +support the passage in some places; and, in others, it is hewn with +incredible labour through the solid rock. Beeches and pines of +a hundred feet high, darken the way with their gigantic branches, casting +a chill around, and diffusing a woody odour. As we advanced, in +the thick shade, amidst the spray of torrents, and heard their loud +roar in the chasm beneath, I could scarcely help thinking myself transported +to the Grande Chartreuse; and began to conceive hopes of once more beholding +St. Bruno. <a name="citation140"></a><a href="#footnote140">{140}</a> +But, though that venerable father did not vouchsafe an apparition, or +call to me again from the depths of the dells, he protected his votary +from nightly perils, and brought us to the banks of Wallersee Lake. +We saw lights gleam upon its shores, which directed us to a cottage +where we reposed after our toils, and were soon lulled to sleep by the +fall of distant waters.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 26<i>th</i>. - The sun rose many hours before me, and +when I got up was spangling the surface of the lake, which expands between +steeps of wood, crowned by lofty crags and pinnacles. We had an +opportunity of contemplating this bold assemblage as we travelled on +the banks of the Meer, where it forms a bay sheltered by impending forests; +the water, tinged by their reflection with a deep cerulean, calm and +tranquil. Mountains of pine and beech rising above, close every +outlet; and, no village or spire peeping out of the foliage, impress +an idea of more than European solitude. I could contentedly have +passed a summer’s moon in these retirements, hollowed myself a +canoe, and fished for sustenance.</p> +<p>From the shore of Wallersee, our road led us straight through arching +groves, which the axe seems never to have violated, to the summit of +a rock covered with spurge-laurel, and worn by the course of torrents +into innumerable craggy forms. Beneath, lay extended a chaos of +shattered cliffs, with tall pines springing from their crevices, and +rapid streams hurrying between their intermingled trunks and branches. +As yet, no hut appeared, no mill, no bridge, no trace of human existence.</p> +<p>After a few hours’ journey through the wilderness, we began +to discover a wreath of smoke; and presently the cottage from whence +it arose, composed of planks, and reared on the very brink of a precipice. +Piles of cloven spruce-fir were dispersed before the entrance, on a +little spot of verdure browsed by goats; near them sat an aged man with +hoary whiskers, his white locks tucked under a fur cap. Two or +three beautiful children, their hair neatly braided, played around him; +and a young woman, dressed in a short robe and Polish-looking bonnet, +peeped out of a wicket window.</p> +<p>I was so much struck with the exotic appearance of this sequestered +family, that, crossing a rivulet, I clambered up to their cottage and +begged some refreshment. Immediately there was a contention amongst +the children, who should be the first to oblige me. A little black-eyed +girl succeeded, and brought me an earthen jug full of milk, with crumbled +bread, and a platter of strawberries fresh picked from the bank. +I reclined in the midst of my smiling hosts, and spread my repast on +the turf: never could I be waited upon with more hospitable grace. +The only thing I wanted was language to express my gratitude; and it +was this deficiency which made me quit them so soon. The old man +seemed visibly concerned at my departure; and his children followed +me a long way down the rocks, talking in a dialect which passes all +understanding, and waving their hands to bid me adieu.</p> +<p>I had hardly lost sight of them and regained my carriage before we +entered a forest of pines, to all appearance without bounds, of every +age and figure; some, feathered to the ground with flourishing branches; +others, decayed into shapes like Lapland idols. I can imagine +few situations more dreadful than to be lost at night amidst this confusion +of trunks, hollow winds whistling among the branches, and strewing their +cones below. Even at noonday, I thought we should never have found +our way out.</p> +<p>At last, having descended a long avenue, endless perspectives opening +on either side, we emerged into a valley bounded by swelling hills, +divided into agreeable shady inclosures, where many herds were grazing. +A rivulet flows along the pastures beneath; and after winding through +the village of Boidou, loses itself in a narrow pass amongst the cliffs +and precipices which rise above the cultivated slopes, and frame in +this happy pastoral region. All the plain was in sunshine, the +sky blue, and the heights illuminated, except one rugged peak with spires +of rock, shaped not unlike the views I have seen of Sinai, and wrapped, +like that sacred mount, in clouds and darkness. At the base of +this tremendous mass, lies a neat hamlet called Mittenvald, surrounded +by thickets and banks of verdure, and watered by frequent springs, whose +sight and murmurs were so reviving in the midst of a sultry day, that +we could not think of leaving their vicinity, but remained at Mittenvald +the whole evening.</p> +<p>Our inn had long airy galleries, and a pleasant balcony fronting +the mountain. In one of these we dined upon trout fresh from the +rills, and cherries just culled from the orchards that cover the slopes +above. The clouds were dispersing, and the topmost peak half visible, +before we ended our repast. Every moment discovering some inaccessible +cliff or summit, shining through the mists, and tinted by the sun with +pale golden colours. These appearances filled me with such delight +and with such a train of romantic associations, that I left the table +and ran to an open field beyond the huts and gardens, to gaze in solitude +and catch the vision before it dissolved away. You, if any human +being is able, may conceive true ideas of these glowing vapours sailing +over the pointed rocks; and brightening them in their passage with amber +light.</p> +<p>When all were faded and lost in the blue ether, I had time to look +around me and notice the mead in which I was standing. Here, clover +covered its surface; there, crops of grain; further on, beds of herbs +and the sweetest flowers. An amphitheatre of hills and rocks, +broken into a variety of glens and precipices, guards the plain from +intrusion, and opens a course for several clear rivulets, which, after +gurgling amidst loose stones and fragments, fall down the steeps, and +are concealed and quieted in the herbage of the vale.</p> +<p>A cottage or two peep out of the woods that hang over the waterfalls; +and on the brow of the hills above, appears a series of eleven little +chapels, uniformly built. I followed the narrow path that leads +to them, on the edge of the eminences, and met a troop of beautiful +peasants, all of the name of Anna (for it was her saintship’s +day), going to pay their devotions, severally, at these neat white fanes. +There were faces that Guercino would not have disdained copying, with +braids of hair the softest and most luxuriant I ever beheld. Some +had wreathed it simply with flowers, other with rolls of a thin linen +(manufactured in the neighbourhood), and disposed it with a degree of +elegance one should not have expected on the cliffs of the Tyrol.</p> +<p>Being arrived, they knelt all together at the first chapel, on the +steps, a minute or two, whispered a short prayer, and then dispersed +each to her fane. Every little building had now its fair worshipper, +and you may well conceive how much such figures, scattered about the +landscape, increased its charms. Notwithstanding the fervour of +their adorations (for at intervals they sighed and beat their white +bosoms with energy), several bewitching profane glances were cast at +me as I passed by. Don’t be surprised, then, if I became +a convert to idolatry in so amiable a form, and worshipped St. Anna +on the score of her namesakes.</p> +<p>When got beyond the last chapel, I began to hear the roar of a cascade +in a thick wood of beech and chestnut that clothes the steeps of a wide +fissure in the rock. My ear soon guided me to its entrance, which +was marked by a shed encompassed with mossy fragments, and almost concealed +by bushes of the caper-plant in full red bloom. Amongst these +I struggled, till, reaching a goat-track, it conducted me, on the brink +of the foaming waters, to the very depths of the cliff, whence issues +a stream which dashes impetuously down, strikes against a ledge of rocks, +and sprinkles the impending thicket with dew. Big drops hung on +every spray, and glittered on the leaves partially gilt by the rays +of the declining sun, whose mellow hues softened the summits of the +cliffs, and diffused a repose, a divine calm, over this deep retirement, +which inclined me to imagine it the extremity of the earth, and the +portal of some other region of existence; some happy world beyond the +dark groves of pine, the caves and awful mountains, where the river +takes its source! I hung eagerly on the gulph, impressed with +this idea, and fancied myself listening to a voice that bubbled up with +the waters; then looked into the abyss and strained my eyes to penetrate +its gloom, but all was dark and unfathomable as futurity! Awakening +from my reverie, I felt the damps of the water chill my forehead, and +ran shivering out of the vale to avoid them. A warmer atmosphere, +that reigned in the meads I had wandered across before, tempted me to +remain a good while longer, collecting the wild pinks with which they +are strewed in profusion, and a species of thyme scented like myrrh. +Whilst I was thus employed, a confused murmur struck my ear, and, on +turning towards a cliff, backed by the woods from whence the sound seemed +to proceed, forth issued a herd of goats, hundreds after hundreds, skipping +down the steeps: then followed two shepherd boys, gamboling together +as they drove their creatures along: soon after, the dog made his appearance, +hunting a stray heifer which brought up the rear. I followed them +with my eyes till lost in the windings of the valley, and heard the +tinkling of their bells die gradually away. Now the last blush +of crimson left the summit of Sinai, inferior mountains being long since +cast in deep blue shades. The village was already hushed when +I regained it, and in a few moments I followed its example.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 27<i>th</i>. - We pursued our journey to Inspruck, through +the wildest scenes of wood and mountain that were ever traversed, the +rocks now beginning to assume a loftier and more majestic appearance, +and to glisten with snows. I had proposed passing a day or two +at Inspruck, visiting the castle of Ambras, and examining Count Eysenberg’s +cabinet, enriched with the rarest productions of the mineral kingdom, +and a complete collection of the moths and flies peculiar to the Tyrol; +but, upon my arrival, the azure of the skies and the brightness of the +sunshine inspired me with an irresistible wish of hastening to Italy. +I was now too near the object of my journey, to delay possession any +longer than absolutely necessary; so, casting a transient look on Maximilian’s +tomb, and the bronze statues of Tyrolese Counts and worthies, solemnly +ranged in the church of the Franciscans, set immediately off.</p> +<p>We crossed a broad noble street, terminated by a triumphal arch, +and were driven along the road to the foot of a mountain waving with +fields of corn, and variegated with wood and vineyards, encircling lawns +of the finest verdure, scattered over with white houses glistening in +the sun. Upon ascending the mount, and beholding a vast range +of prospects of a similar character, I almost repented my impatience, +and looked down with regret upon the cupolas and steeples we were leaving +behind. But the rapid succession of lovely and romantic scenes +soon effaced the former from my memory.</p> +<p>Our road, the smoothest in the world (though hewn in the bosom of +rocks), by its sudden turns and windings, gave us, every instant, opportunities +of discovering new villages, and forests rising beyond forests; green +spots in the midst of wood, high above on the mountains, and cottages +perched on the edge of promontories. Down, far below, in the chasm, +amidst a confusion of pines and fragments of stone, rages the torrent +Inn, which fills the country far and wide with a perpetual murmur. +Sometimes we descended to its brink, and crossed over high bridges; +sometimes mounted half-way up the cliffs, till its roar and agitation +became, through distance, inconsiderable.</p> +<p>After a long ascent, the shades of evening reposing in the valleys, +and the upland snows still tinged with a vivid red, we reached Schönberg, +a village well worthy of its appellation: and then, twilight drawing +over us, began to descend. We could now but faintly discover the +opposite mountains, veined with silver rills, when we came once more +to the banks of the Inn. This turbulent stream accompanied us +all the way to Steinach, and broke by its continual roar the stillness +of the night, which had finished half its course before we were settled +to rest.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 28<i>th</i>. - I rose early to scent the fragrance of +the vegetation, bathed in a shower which had lately fallen, and looking +around me, saw nothing but crags hanging over crags, and the rocky shores +of the stream, still dark with the shade of the mountains. The +small opening in which Steinach is situated, terminates in a gloomy +strait, scarce leaving room for the road and the torrent, which does +not understand being thwarted, and will force its way, let the pines +grow ever so thick, or the rocks be ever so considerable.</p> +<p>Notwithstanding the forbidding air of this narrow dell, Industry +has contrived to enliven its steeps with habitations, to raise water +by means of a wheel, and to cover the surface of the rocks with soil. +By this means large crops of oats and flax are produced, and most of +the huts have gardens adjoining, which are filled with poppies, seeming +to thrive in this parched situation.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“Urit enim lini campum seges, urit avenæ,<br />Urunt +Lethæo perfusa papavera somno.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>The farther we advanced in the dell, the larger were the plantations +which discovered themselves. For what purpose these gaudy flowers +meet with such encouragement, I had neither time nor language to inquire; +the mountaineers stuttering a gibberish unintelligible even to Germans. +Probably opium is extracted from them; or, perhaps, if you love a conjecture, +Morpheus has transferred his abode from the Cimmerians, and has perceived +a cavern somewhere or other in the recesses of these endless mountains. +Poppies, you know, in poetic travels, always denote the skirts of his +soporific reign, and I don’t remember a region better calculated +for undisturbed repose than the narrow clefts and gullies which run +up amongst these rocks, lost in vapours impervious to the sun, and moistened +by rills and showers, whose continual tricklings inspire a drowsiness +not easily to be resisted. Add to these circumstances the waving +of the pines, with the hum of bees seeking their food in the crevices, +and you will have as sleepy a region as that in which Spenser and Ariosto +have placed the nodding deity.</p> +<p>At present, I must confess, I should not dislike submitting to his +empire, for a few months or years, just as it might happen, whilst Europe +is distracted by demons of revenge and war; whilst they are strangling +at Venice, and tearing each other to pieces in unhappy London; whilst +Etna and Vesuvius give signs of uncommon wrath; America welters in her +blood; and almost every quarter of the globe is filled with carnage +and devastation. This is the moment to humble ourselves before +the God of Sleep; to beseech him to open his dusky portals; and admit +us into the repose of his retired kingdom. If you are inclined +to become a suppliant, hasten to the Tyrol, and we will search together +about the mountains, traverse the poppy-meads, and look into every chasm +and fissure that excludes daylight, in hopes of discovering the mansion +of repose. Then when we have found this corner (or I think our +search will be successful) Morpheus will give us an approving nod, and +beckon us in silence to couch, where, soon lulled by the murmurs of +the place, we shall sink into oblivion and tranquillity. But we +may as well keep our eyes open for the present, till we have made this +important discovery, and look at the beautiful country round Brixen, +whither I arrived in the cool of the evening, and breathed the freshness +of a garden, immediately beneath my window. The thrushes, warbling +amongst its shades, saluted me, the moment I awoke next morning.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 29<i>th</i>. - We proceeded over fertile mountains to +Bolsano. Here first I noticed the rocks cut into terraces, thick +set with melons and Indian corn; gardens of fig-trees and pomegranates +hanging over walls, clustered with fruit; amidst them, a little pleasant +cot, shaded by cypresses. In the evening we perceived several +further indications of approaching Italy; and after sunset the Adige, +rolling its full tide between precipices, which looked awful in the +dusk. Myriads of fire-flies sparkled amongst the shrubs on the +bank. I traced the course of these exotic insects by their blue +light, now rising to the summits of the trees, now sinking to the ground +and associating with vulgar glow-worms. We had opportunities enough +to remark their progress, since we travelled all night; such being my +impatience to reach the promised land!</p> +<p>Morning dawned just as we saw Trent dimly before us. I slept +a few hours, then set out again (July 30th), after the heats were in +some degree abated, and leaving Bergine, where the peasants were feasting +before their doors, in their holiday dresses, with red pinks stuck in +their ears instead of rings, and their necks surrounded with coral of +the same colour, we came through a woody valley to the banks of a lake, +filled with the purest and most transparent water, which loses itself +in shady creeks, amongst hills robed with verdure from their bases to +their summits.</p> +<p>The shores present one continual shrubbery, interspersed with knots +of larches and slender almonds, starting from the underwood. A +cornice of rock runs round the whole, except where the trees descend +to the very brink, and dip their boughs in the water.</p> +<p>It was five o’clock when I caught the sight of this unsuspected +lake, and the evening shadows stretched nearly across it. Gaining +a very rapid ascent, we looked down upon its placid bosom, and saw several +airy peaks rising above the tufted foliage of the groves around. +I quitted the contemplation of them with regret, and, in a few hours, +arrived at Borgo di Volsugano, the scenes of the lake still present +before the eye of my fancy.</p> +<p><i>July</i> 31<i>st</i>. - My heart beat quick when I saw some hills, +not very distant, which I was told lay in the Venetian State, and I +thought an age, at least, had elapsed before we were passing their base. +The road was never formed to delight an impatient traveller; loose pebbles +and rolling stones render it, in the highest degree, tedious and jolting. +I should not have spared my execrations, had it not traversed a picturesque +valley, overgrown with juniper, and strewed with fragments of rock, +precipitated, long since, from the surrounding eminences, blooming with +cyclamens.</p> +<p>I clambered up several of these crags,</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“fra gli odoriferi ginepri,”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>to gather the flowers I have just mentioned, and found them deliciously +scented. Fratillarias, and the most gorgeous flies, many of which +I here noticed for the first time, were fluttering about and expanding +their wings to the sun. There is no describing the numbers I beheld, +nor their gaily varied colouring. I could not find in my heart +to destroy their felicity; to scatter their bright plumage and snatch +them for ever from the realms of light and flowers. Had I been +less compassionate, I should have gained credit with that respectable +corps, the torturers of butterflies; and might, perhaps, have enriched +their cabinets with some unknown captives. However, I left them +imbibing the dews of heaven, in free possession of their native rights; +and having changed horses at Tremolano, entered at length my long-desired +Italy.</p> +<p>The pass is rocky and tremendous, guarded by a fortress (Covalo), +in possession of the Empress Queen, and only fit, one should think, +to be inhabited by her eagles. There is no attaining this exalted +hold but by the means of a cord let down many fathoms by the soldiers, +who live in dens and caverns, which serve also as arsenals, and magazines +for powder; whose mysteries I declined prying into, their approach being +a little too aërial for my earthly frame. A black vapour, +tinging their entrance, completed the terror of the prospect, which +I shall never forget.</p> +<p>For two or three leagues it continued much in the same style; cliffs, +nearly perpendicular, on both sides, and the Brenta foaming and thundering +below. Beyond, the rocks began to be mantled with vines and gardens. +Here and there a cottage shaded with mulberries made its appearance, +and we often discovered, on the banks of the river, ranges of white +buildings, with courts and awnings, beneath which vast numbers were +employed in manufacturing silk. As we advanced, the stream gradually +widened, and the rocks receded; woods were more frequent and cottages +thicker strown.</p> +<p>About five in the evening, we had left the country of crags and precipices, +of mists and cataracts, and were entering the fertile territory of the +Bassanese. It was now I beheld groves of olives, and vines clustering +the summits of the tallest elms; pomegranates in every garden, and vases +of citron and orange before almost every door. The softness and +transparency of the air soon told me I was arrived in happier climates; +and I felt sensations of joy and novelty run through my veins, upon +beholding this smiling land of groves and verdure stretched out before +me. A few glooming vapours, I can hardly call them clouds, rested +upon the extremities of the landscape; and, through their medium, the +sun cast an oblique and dewy ray. Peasants were returning homeward +from the cultivated hillocks and corn-fields, singing as they went, +and calling to each other over the hills; whilst the women were milking +goats before the wickets of the cottages, and preparing their country +fare.</p> +<p>I left them enjoying it, and soon beheld the ancient ramparts and +cypresses of Bassano; whose classic appearance recalled the memory of +former times, and answered exactly the ideas I had pictured to myself +of Italian edifices. Though encompassed by walls and turrets, +neither soldiers nor custom-house officers start out from their concealment, +to question and molest a weary traveller, for such are the blessings +of the Venetian State, at least of the Terra Firma provinces, that it +does not contain, I believe, above four regiments. Istria, Dalmatia, +and the maritime frontiers, are more formidably guarded, as they touch, +you know, the whiskers of the Turkish empire.</p> +<p>Passing under a Doric gateway, we crossed the chief part of the town +in the way to our locanda, pleasantly situated, and commanding a level +green, where people walk and eat ices by moonlight. On the right, +the Franciscan church and convent, half hid in the religious gloom of +pine and cypress; to the left, a perspective of walls and towers rising +from the turf, and marking it, when I arrived, with long shadows; in +front, where the lawn terminates, meadow, wood, and garden run quite +to the base of the mountains.</p> +<p>Twilight coming on, this beautiful spot swarmed with people, sitting +in circles upon the grass, refreshing themselves with cooling liquors +or lounging upon the bank beneath the towers. They looked so free +and happy that I longed to be acquainted with them; and by the interposition +of a polite Venetian (who, though a perfect stranger, showed me the +most engaging marks of attention), was introduced to a group of the +principal inhabitants. Our conversation ended in a promise to +meet the next evening at a country house about a league from Bassano, +and then to return together and sing to the praise of Pacchierotti, +their idol, as well as mine.</p> +<p>You can have no idea what pleasure we mutually found in being of +the same faith, and believing in one singer; nor can you imagine what +effects that musical divinity produced at Padua, where he performed +a few years ago, and threw his audience into such raptures, that it +was some time before they recovered. One in particular, a lady +of distinction, fainted away the instant she caught the pathetic accents +of his voice, and was near dying a martyr to its melody. La Contessa +Roberti, who sings in the truest taste, gave me a detail of the whole +affair. “Egli ha fatto veramente un fanatismo a Padua,” +was her expression. I assured her we were not without idolatry +in England, upon his account; but that in this, as well as in other +articles of belief, there were many abominable heretics.</p> +<p><i>August</i> 1<i>st</i>. - The whole morning not a soul stirred +who could avoid it. Those who were so active and lively the night +before, were now stretched languidly upon their couches. Being +to the full as idly disposed, I sat down and wrote some of this dreaming +epistle; then feasted upon figs and melons; then got under the shade +of the cypress, and slumbered till evening, only waking to dine, and +take some ice.</p> +<p>The sun declining apace, I hastened to my engagement at Mosolente +(for so is the villa called), placed on a verdant hill encircled by +others as lovely, and consisting of three light pavilions connected +by porticos: just such as we admire in the fairy scenes of an opera. +A vast flight of steps leads to the summit, where Signora Roberti and +her friends received me with a grace and politeness that can never want +a place in my memory. We rambled over all the apartments of this +agreeable edifice, characterised by airiness and simplicity. The +pavement incrusted with a composition as cool and polished as marble; +the windows, doors, and balconies adorned with silvered, iron work, +commanding scenes of meads and woodlands that extend to the shores of +the Adriatic; spires and cypresses rising above the levels; and the +hazy mountains beyond Padua, diversifying the expanse, form altogether +a landscape which the elegant imagination of Horizonti never exceeded. +Beyond the villa, a tumble of hillocks present themselves in a variety +of forms, with dips and hollows between, scattered over with leafy trees +and vines dangling in continued garlands.</p> +<p>I gazed on this rural view till it faded in the dusk; then returning +to Bassano, repaired to an illuminated hall, and had the felicity of +hearing La Signora Roberti sing the very air which had excited such +transport at Padua. As soon as she had ended, and that I could +hear no more those affecting sounds, which had held me silent and almost +breathless for several moments, a band of various instruments stationed +in the open street began a lively symphony, which would have delighted +me at any other time; but now, I wished them a thousand leagues away, +so melancholy an impression did the air I had been listening to leave +on my mind.</p> +<p>At midnight I took leave of my obliging hosts, who were just setting +out for Padua. They gave me a thousand kind invitations, and I +hope some future day to accept them.</p> +<p><i>August</i> 2<i>nd</i>. - Our route to Venice lay winding about +the variegated plains I had surveyed from Mosolente; and after dining +at Treviso we came in two hours and a half to Mestre, between grand +villas and gardens peopled with statues. Embarking our baggage +at the last-mentioned place, we stepped into a gondola, whose even motion +was very agreeable after the jolts of a chaise. Stretched beneath +the awning, I enjoyed at my ease the freshness of the gales, and the +sight of the waters. We were soon out of the canal of Mestre, +terminated by an isle which contains a cell dedicated to the Holy Virgin, +peeping out of a thicket from whence spire up two tall cypresses. +Its bells tingled as we passed along and dropped some paolis into a +net tied at the end of a pole stretched out to us for that purpose.</p> +<p>As soon as we had doubled the cape of this diminutive island, an +azure expanse of sea opened to our view, the domes and towers of Venice +rising from its bosom. Now we began to distinguish Murano, St. +Michele, St. Giorgio in Alga, and several other islands, detached from +the grand cluster, which I hailed as old acquaintances; innumerable +prints and drawings having long since made their shapes familiar. +Still gliding forward, the sun casting his last gleams across the waves, +and reddening the different towers, we every moment distinguished some +new church or palace in the city, suffused with the evening rays, and +reflected with all their glow of colouring from the surface of the waters.</p> +<p>The air was still; the sky cloudless; a faint wind just breathing +upon the deep, lightly bore its surface against the steps of a chapel +in the island of Saint Secondo, and waved the veil before its portal, +as we rowed by and coasted the walls of its garden, overhung with fig-trees +and topped with Italian pines. The convent discovers itself through +their branches, built in a style somewhat morisco, and level with the +sea, except where the garden intervenes.</p> +<p>Here, meditation may indulge her reveries in the midst of the surges, +and walk in cloisters, alone vocal with the whispers of the pine. +I passed this consecrated spot soon after sunset, when daylight was +expiring in the west, and when the distant woods of Fusina were lost +in the haze of the horizon.</p> +<p>We were now drawing very near the city, and a confused hum began +to interrupt the evening stillness; gondolas were continually passing +and repassing, and the entrance of the Canal Reggio, with all its stir +and bustle, lay before us. Our gondoliers turned with much address +through a crowd of boats and barges that blocked up the way, and rowed +smoothly by the side of a broad pavement, covered with people in all +dresses and of all nations.</p> +<p>Leaving the Palazzo Pesaro, a noble structure with two rows of arcades +and a superb rustic, behind, we were soon landed before the Leon Bianco, +which being situated in one of the broadest parts of the grand canal, +commands a most striking assemblage of buildings. I have no terms +to describe the variety of pillars, of pediments, of mouldings, and +cornices, some Grecian, others Saracenical, that adorn these edifices, +of which the pencil of Canaletti conveys so perfect an idea as to render +all verbal description superfluous. At one end of this grand perspective +appears the Rialto; the sweep of the canal conceals the other.</p> +<p>The rooms of our hotel are as spacious and cheerful as I could desire; +a lofty hall, or rather gallery, painted with grotesque in a very good +style, perfectly clean, floored with the stucco composition I have mentioned +above, divides the house, and admits a refreshing current of air. +Several windows near the ceiling look into this vast apartment, which +serves in lieu of a court, and is rendered perfectly luminous by a glazed +arcade, thrown open to catch the breezes. Through it I passed +to a balcony which impends over the canal, and is twined round with +plants forming a green festoon springing from two large vases of orange-trees +placed at each end. Here I established myself to enjoy the cool, +and observe, as well as the dusk would permit, the variety of figures +shooting by in their gondolas.</p> +<p>As night approached, innumerable tapers glimmered through the awnings +before the windows. Every boat had its lantern, and the gondolas +moving rapidly along were followed by tracks of light, which gleamed +and played upon the waters. I was gazing at these dancing fires +when the sounds of music were wafted along the canals, and as they grew +louder and louder, an illuminated barge, filled with musicians, issued +from the Rialto, and stopping under one of the palaces, began a serenade, +which was clamorous and suspended all conversation in the galleries +and porticos; till, rowing slowly away, it was heard no more. +The gondoliers catching the air, imitated its cadences, and were answered +by others at a distance, whose voices, echoed by the arch of the bridge, +acquired a plaintive and interesting tone. I retired to rest, +full of the sound; and long after I was asleep, the melody seemed to +vibrate in my ear.</p> +<p><i>August</i> 3<i>rd</i>. - It was not five o’clock before +I was aroused by a loud din of voices and splashing of water under my +balcony. Looking out, I beheld the grand canal so entirely covered +with fruits and vegetables, on rafts and in barges, that I could scarcely +distinguish a wave. Loads of grapes, peaches, and melons arrived, +and disappeared in an instant, for every vessel was in motion; and the +crowds of purchasers hurrying from boat to boat, formed one of the liveliest +pictures imaginable. Amongst the multitudes, I remarked a good +many whose dress and carriage announced something above the common rank; +and upon inquiry I found they were noble Venetians, just come from their +casinos, and met to refresh themselves with fruit, before they retired +to sleep for the day.</p> +<p>Whilst I was observing them, the sun began to colour the balustrades +of the palaces, and the pure exhilarating air of the morning drawing +me abroad, I procured a gondola, laid in my provision of bread and grapes, +and was rowed under the Rialto, down the grand canal, to the marble +steps of S. Maria della Salute, erected by the Senate in performance +of a vow to the Holy Virgin, who begged off a terrible pestilence in +1630. I gazed, delighted with its superb frontispiece and dome, +relieved by a clear blue sky. To criticize columns or pediments +of the different façades, would be time lost; since one glance +upon the worst view that has been taken of them, conveys a far better +idea than the most elaborate description. The great bronze portal +opened whilst I was standing on the steps which lead to it, and discovered +the interior of the dome, where I expatiated in solitude; no mortal +appearing except an old priest who trimmed the lamps, and muttered a +prayer before the high altar, still wrapped in shadows. The sunbeams +began to strike against the windows of the cupola just as I left the +church, and was wafted across the waves to the spacious platform in +front of St. Giorgio Maggiore, by far the most perfect and beautiful +edifice my eyes ever beheld.</p> +<p>When my first transport was a little subsided, and I had examined +the graceful design of each particular ornament, and united the just +proportion and grand effect of the whole in my mind, I planted my umbrella +on the margin of the sea, and reclining under its shade, my feet dangling +over the waters, viewed the vast range of palaces, of porticos, of towers, +opening on every side and extending out of sight. The Doge’s +residence and the tall columns at the entrance of the place of St. Mark, +form, together with the arcades of the public library, the lofty Campanile +and the cupolas of the ducal church, one of the most striking groups +of buildings that art can boast of. To behold at one glance these +stately fabrics, so illustrious in the records of former ages, before +which, in the flourishing times of the republic, so many valiant chiefs +and princes have landed, loaded with the spoils of different nations, +was a spectacle I had long and ardently desired. I thought of +the days of Frederic Barbarossa, when looking up the piazza of St. Mark, +along which he marched in solemn procession, to cast himself at the +feet of Alexander the Third, and pay a tardy homage to St. Peter’s +successor. Here were no longer those splendid fleets that attended +his progress; one solitary galeass was all I beheld, anchored opposite +the palace of the Doge, and surrounded by crowds of gondolas, whose +sable hues contrasted strongly with its vermilion oars and shining ornaments. +A party-coloured multitude was continually shifting from one side of +the piazza to the other; whilst senators and magistrates in long black +robes were already arriving to fill their respective charges.</p> +<p>I contemplated the busy scene from my peaceful platform, where nothing +stirred but aged devotees creeping to their devotions; and, whilst I +remained thus calm and tranquil, heard the distant buzz and rumour of +the town. Fortunately a length of waves rolled between me and +its tumults; so that I ate my grapes, and read Metastasio, undisturbed +by officiousness or curiosity. When the sun became too powerful, +I entered the nave, and applauded the genius of Palladio.</p> +<p>After I had admired the masterly structure of the roof and the lightness +of its arches, my eyes naturally directed themselves to the pavement +of white and ruddy marble, polished, and reflecting like a mirror the +columns which rise from it. Over this I walked to a door that +admitted me into the principal quadrangle of the convent, surrounded +by a cloister supported on Ionic pillars, beautifully proportioned. +A flight of stairs opens into the court, adorned with balustrades and +pedestals, sculptured with elegance truly Grecian. This brought +me to the refectory, where the chef-d’œuvre of Paul Veronese, +representing the marriage of Cana in Galilee, was the first object that +presented itself. I never beheld so gorgeous a group of wedding +garments before; there is every variety of fold and plait that can possibly +be imagined. The attitudes and countenances are more uniform, +and the guests appear a very genteel, decent sort of people, well used +to the mode of their times and accustomed to miracles.</p> +<p>Having examined this fictitious repast, I cast a look on a long range +of tables covered with very excellent realities, which the monks were +coming to devour with energy, if one might judge from their appearance. +These sons of penitence and mortification possess one of the most spacious +islands of the whole cluster, a princely habitation, with gardens and +open porticos, that engross every breath of air; and, what adds not +a little to the charms of their abode, is the liberty of making excursions +from it, whenever they have a mind.</p> +<p>The republic, wisely jealous of ecclesiastical influence, connives +at these amusing rambles, and, by encouraging the liberty of monks and +churchmen, prevents their appearing too sacred and important in the +eyes of the people, who have frequent proofs of their being mere flesh +and blood, and that of the frailest composition. Had the rest +of Italy been of the same opinion, and profited as much by Fra Paolo’s +maxims, some of its fairest fields would not, at this moment, lie uncultivated, +and its ancient spirit might have revived. However, I can scarcely +think the moment far distant, when it will assert its natural prerogatives, +awake from its ignoble slumber, and look back upon the tiara, with all +its host of idle fears and scaring phantoms, as the offspring of a distempered +dream. Scarce a sovereign supports any longer this vain illusion, +except the old woman of Hungary, and as soon as her dim eyes are closed +we shall probably witness great events. <a name="citation156"></a><a href="#footnote156">{156}</a></p> +<p>Full of prophecies and bodings, I moved slowly out of the cloisters; +and, gaining my gondola, arrived, I know not how, at the flights of +steps which lead to the Redenptore, a structure so simple and elegant, +that I thought myself entering an antique temple, and looked about for +the statue of the God of Delphi, or some other graceful divinity. +A huge crucifix of bronze soon brought me to times present.</p> +<p>The charm being thus dissolved, I began to perceive the shapes of +rueful martyrs peeping out of the niches around, and the bushy beards +of Capuchin friars wagging before the altars. These good fathers +had decorated their church, according to custom, with orange and citron +trees, placed between the pilasters of the arcades; and on grand festivals, +it seems, they turn the whole church into a bower, strew the pavement +with leaves, and festoon the dome with flowers.</p> +<p>I left them occupied with their plants and their devotions. +It was midday, and I begged to be rowed to some woody island, where +I might dine in shade and tranquillity. My gondoliers shot off +in an instant; but, though they went at a very rapid rate, I wished +to fly faster, and getting into a bark with six oars, swept along the +waters, soon left the Zecca and San Marco behind; and, launching into +the plains of shining sea, saw turret after turret, and isle after isle, +fleeting before me. A pale greenish light ran along the shores +of the distant continent, whose mountains seemed to catch the motion +of my boat, and to fly with equal celerity.</p> +<p>I had not much time to contemplate the beautiful effects on the waters +- the emerald and purple hues which gleamed along their surface. +Our prow struck, foaming, against the walls of the Carthusian garden, +before I recollected where I was, or could look attentively around me. +Permission being obtained, I entered this cool retirement, and putting +aside with my hands the boughs of fig-trees and pomegranates, got under +an ancient bay, near which several tall pines lift themselves up to +the breezes. I listened to the conversation they held, with a +wind just flown from Greece, and charged, as well as I could understand +this airy language, with many affectionate remembrances from their relations +on Mount Ida.</p> +<p>I reposed amidst bay leaves, fanned by a constant air, till it pleased +the fathers to send me some provisions, with a basket of fruit and wine. +Two of them would wait upon me, and ask ten thousand questions about +Lord George Gordon, and the American war. I, who was deeply engaged +with the winds, and fancied myself hearing these rapid travellers relate +their adventures, wished my interrogators in purgatory, and pleaded +ignorance of the Italian language. This circumstance extricated +me from my difficulties, and procured me a long interval of repose.</p> +<p>The rustling of the pines had the same effect as the murmurs of other +old story-tellers, and I slept undisturbed till the people without, +in the boat (who wondered not a little, I dare say, what the deuce was +become of me within), began a sort of chorus in parts, full of such +plaintive modulation, that I still thought myself under the influence +of a dream, and, half in this world and half in the other, believed, +like the heroes of Fingal, that I had caught the music of the spirits +of the hill.</p> +<p>When I was thoroughly convinced of the reality of these sounds, I +moved towards the shore from whence they proceeded: a glassy sea lay +full before me; no gale ruffled the expanse; every breath was subsided, +and I beheld the sun go down in all its sacred calm. You have +experienced the sensations this moment inspires; imagine what they must +have been in such a scene, and accompanied with a melody so simple and +pathetic. I stepped into my boat, and instead of encouraging the +speed of the gondoliers, begged them to abate their ardour, and row +me lazily home. They complied, and we were near an hour reaching +the platform before the ducal palace, thronged as usual with a variety +of nations. I mixed a moment with the crowd; then directed my +steps to the great mosque, - I ought to say the church of St. Mark; +but really its cupolas, slender pinnacles, and semicircular arches, +have so oriental an appearance, as to excuse this appellation. +I looked a moment at the four stately coursers of bronze and gold that +adorn the chief portal, and then took in, at one glance, the whole extent +of the square, with its towers and standards. So noble an assemblage +never met my eyes. I envied the good fortune of Petrarch, who +describes, in one of his letters, a tournament held in this princely +opening.</p> +<p>Many are the festivals which have been here celebrated. When +Henry the Third left Poland to mount the throne of France, he passed +through Venice, and found the republic waiting to receive him in their +famous square, which by means of an awning stretched from the balustrades +of opposite palaces, was metamorphosed into a vast saloon, sparkling +with artificial stars, and spread with the richest carpets of the East. +What a magnificent idea! The ancient Romans, in the zenith of +power and luxury, never conceived a greater. It is to them the +Venetians are indebted for the hint, since we read of the Coliseo and +Pompey’s theatre being sometimes covered with transparent canvas, +to defend the spectators from the heat or sudden rain, and to tint the +scene with soft agreeable colours, like the hues of the declining sun.</p> +<p>Having enjoyed the general perspective of the piazza, I began to +enter into particulars, and examine the bronze pedestals of the three +standards before the great church, designed by Sansovino in the true +spirit of the antique, and covered with relievos, at the same time bold +and elegant. It is also to this celebrated architect we are indebted +for the stately façade of the Proccuratie nuove, which forms +one side of the square, and presents an uninterrupted series of arcades +and marble columns exquisitely wrought. Opposite this magnificent +range appears another line of palaces, whose architecture, though far +removed from the Grecian purity of Sansovino, impresses veneration, +and completes the pomp of the view.</p> +<p>There is something strange and singular in the tower, which rises +distinct from the smooth pavement of the square, a little to the left +as you stand before the chief entrance of St. Mark’s. The +design is rather barbarous, and terminates in uncouth and heavy pyramids; +yet in spite of these defects it struck me with awe. A beautiful +building called the Loggetta, and which serves as a guard-house during +the convocation of the grand council, decorates its base. Nothing +can be more enriched, more finished than this structure; which, though +far from diminutive, is in a manner lost at the foot of the Campanile. +This enormous mass seems to promise a very long duration, and will probably +carry down the fame of St. Mark and his Lion to the latest posterity. +Both appear in great state towards its summit, and have nothing superior, +but an archangel perched on the topmost pinnacle, and pointing to the +skies. The dusk prevented my remarking the various sculptures +with which the Loggetta is crowded.</p> +<p>Crossing the ample space between this elegant edifice and the ducal +palace, I passed through a labyrinth of pillars and entered the principal +court, of which nothing but the great outline was visible at so late +an hour. Two reservoirs of bronze, rich with sculptured foliage, +diversify the area. In front a magnificent flight of steps presents +itself, by which the senators ascend through vast and solemn corridors, +which lead to the interior of the edifice. The colossal statues +of Mars and Neptune guard the entrance, and have given the appellation +of <i>scala dei geganti</i> to the steps below, which I mounted not +without respect; and, leaning against the balustrades, formed like the +rest of the building of the rarest marbles, adored the tutelary divinities.</p> +<p>My devotions were shortly interrupted by one of the sbirri, or officers +of police, who take their stands after sunset before the avenues of +the palace, and who told me the gates were upon the point of being closed. +So, hurrying down the steps, I left half my vows unpaid and a million +of delicate sculptures unexplored; for every pilaster, every frieze, +every entablature, is incrusted with porphyry, verde antique, or some +other curious marble, carved into as many grotesque wreaths and mouldings +as we admire in the loggios of Raffaello. The various portals, +the strange projections, the length of cloisters; in short, the noble +irregularity of these imperial piles, delighted me beyond idea; and +I was sorry to be forced to abandon them so soon, especially as the +twilight, which bats and owls love not better than I do, enlarged every +portico, lengthened every colonnade, and increased the dimensions of +the whole, just as imagination desired. This faculty would have +had full scope had I but remained an hour longer. The moon would +then have gleamed upon the gigantic forms of Mars and Neptune, and discovered +the statues of ancient heroes emerging from the gloom of their niches.</p> +<p>Such an interesting assemblage of objects, such regal scenery, with +the reflection that half their ornaments once contributed to the decoration +of Athens, transported me beyond myself. The sbirri thought me +distracted. True enough, I was stalking proudly about like an +actor in an ancient Grecian tragedy, lifting up his hands to the consecrated +fanes and images around, expecting the reply of his attendant chorus, +and declaiming the first verses of Œdipus Tyrannus.</p> +<p>These fits of enthusiasm were hardly subsided, when I issued from +the gates of the palace into the great square, which received a faint +gleam from its casinos and palaces, just beginning to be lighted up, +and become the resort of pleasure and dissipation. Numbers were +walking in parties upon the pavement; some sought the shade of the porticos +with their favourites; others were earnestly engaged in conversation, +and filled the gay illuminated apartments, where they resorted to drink +coffee and sorbet, with laughter and merriment. A thoughtless +giddy transport prevailed; for, at this hour, anything like restraint +seems perfectly out of the question; and however solemn a magistrate +or senator may appear in the day, at night he lays up wig and robe and +gravity to sleep together, runs intriguing about in his gondola, takes +the reigning sultana under his arm, and so rambles half over the town, +which grows gayer and gayer as the day declines.</p> +<p>Many of the noble Venetians have a little suite of apartments in +some out-of-the-way corner, near the grand piazza, of which their families +are totally ignorant. To these they skulk in the dusk, and revel +undisturbed with the companions of their pleasures. Jealousy itself +cannot discover the alleys, the winding passages, the unsuspected doors, +by which these retreats are accessible. Many an unhappy lover, +whose mistress disappears on a sudden with some fortunate rival, has +searched for her haunts in vain. The gondoliers themselves, though +the prime managers of intrigue, are scarce ever acquainted with these +interior cabinets. When a gallant has a mind to pursue his adventures +with mystery, he rows to the piazza, orders his bark to wait, meets +his goddess in the crowd, and vanishes from all beholders. Surely, +Venice is the city in the universe best calculated for giving scope +to the observations of a devil upon two sticks. What a variety +of lurking-places would one stroke of his crutch uncover!</p> +<p>Whilst the higher ranks were solacing themselves in their casinos, +the rabble were gathered in knots round the strollers and mountebanks, +singing and scaramouching in the middle of the square. I observed +a great number of Orientals amongst the crowd, and heard Turkish and +Arabic muttering in every corner. There the Sclavonian dialect +predominated; there some Grecian jargon, almost unintelligible. +Had St. Mark’s church been the wondrous tower, and its piazza +the chief square, of the city of Babylon, there could scarcely have +been a greater confusion of languages.</p> +<p>The novelty of the scene afforded me no small share of amusement, +and I wandered about from group to group, and from one strange exotic +to another, asking and being asked innumerable ridiculous questions, +and settling the politics of London and Constantinople, almost in the +same breath. This instant, I found myself in a circle of grave +Armenian priests and jewellers; the next amongst Greeks and Dalmatians, +who accosted me with the smoothest compliments, and gave proof that +their reputation for pliability and address was not ill-founded.</p> +<p>I was entering into a grand harum-scarum discourse with some Russian +Counts or Princes, or whatever you please, just landed with dwarfs, +and footmen, and governors, and staring, like me, about them, when Mad. +de R. arrived, to whom I had the happiness of being recommended. +She very obligingly presented me to some of the most distinguished of +the Venetian families at their great casino, which looks into the piazza, +and consists of five or six rooms, fitted up in a gay flimsy taste, +neither rich nor elegant, where were a great many lights, and a great +many ladies negligently dressed, their hair falling very freely about +them, and innumerable adventures written in their eyes. The gentlemen +were lolling upon the sofas or lounging about the apartments.</p> +<p>The whole assembly seemed upon the verge of gaping, till coffee was +carried round. This magic beverage diffused a temporary animation; +and, for a moment or two, conversation moved on with a degree of pleasing +extravagance; but the flash was soon dissipated, and nothing remained +save cards and stupidity.</p> +<p>In the intervals of shuffling and dealing, some talked over the affairs +of the grand council with less reserve than I expected; and two or three +of them asked some feeble questions about the late tumults in London: +as much, however, through indolence and forgetfulness, I should conjecture, +as from any political motive, for I don’t believe all those wise +stories, which some travellers have propagated, of Venetian subtlety +and profound silence. They might have reigned during the dark +periods of the republic, but at this moment the veil is rent in fifty +places; and without any wonderful penetration, the debates of the senate +are discoverable. There doubtless was a time when, society being +greatly divided, and little communication subsisting among the nobles, +secrets were invariably kept; but since the establishment of casinos, +which the ladies rule, where chit-chat and tittle-tattle are for ever +going forwards, who can preserve a rigorous taciturnity upon any subject +in the universe? It was one o’clock before all the company +were assembled, and I left them at three, still dreaming over their +coffee and card-tables. Trieze is their favourite game: <i>uno</i>, +<i>due</i>, <i>tre</i>, <i>quatro</i>, <i>cinque</i>, <i>fante</i>, +<i>cavallo</i> are eternally repeated; the apartments echoed no other +sound.</p> +<p>No lively people could endure such monotony; yet I have been told +the Venetians are remarkably spirited, and so eager in the pursuit of +amusement as hardly to allow themselves any sleep. Some, for instance, +after declaiming in the Senate, walking an hour in the square, and fidgeting +about from one casino to another till morning dawns, will get into a +gondola, row across the Lagunes, take the post to Mestre or Fusina, +and jumble over craggy pavements to Treviso, breakfast in haste, and +rattle back again as if the devil were charioteer: by eleven the party +is restored to Venice, resumes robe and periwig, and goes to council.</p> +<p>This may be very true, and yet I will never cite the Venetians as +examples of vivacity. Their nerves, unstrung by disease and the +consequences of early debaucheries, impede all lively flow of spirits +in its course, and permit at best but a few moments of a false and feverish +activity. The approaches of rest, forced back by an immoderate +use of coffee, render them, too, weak and listless, and the facility +of being wafted from place to place in a gondola, adds not a little +to their indolence. In short, I can scarcely regard their Eastern +neighbours in a more lazy light; and am apt to imagine that instead +of slumbering less than other people, they pass their lives in one perpetual +doze.</p> +<p><i>August</i> 4<i>th</i>. - The heats were so excessive in the night, +that I thought myself several times on the point of suffocation, tossed +about like a wounded fish, and dreamt of the devil and Senegal. +Towards sunrise, a faint breeze restored me to life and reason. +I slumbered till late in the day, and the moment I was fairly awake, +ordered my gondolier to row out to the main ocean, that I might plunge +into its waves, and hear and see nothing but waters around me.</p> +<p>We shot off, wound amongst a number of sheds, shops, churches, casinos, +and palaces, growing immediately out of the canals, without any apparent +foundation. No quay, no terrace, not even a slab is to be seen +before the doors; one step brings you from the hall into the bark, and +the vestibules of the stateliest structures lie open to the waters, +and level with them. I observed several, as I glided along, supported +by rows of well-proportioned pillars, adorned with terms and vases, +beyond which the eye generally discovers a grand court, and sometimes +a garden.</p> +<p>In about half an hour, we had left the thickest cluster of isles +behind, and, coasting the Place of St. Mark opposite to San Giorgio +Maggiore, whose elegant frontispiece was painted on the calm waters, +launched into the blue expanse of sea, from which rise the Chartreuse +and two or three other woody islands. I hailed the spot where +I had passed such a happy visionary evening, and nodded to my friends +the pines.</p> +<p>A few minutes more brought me to a dreary, sun-burnt shore, stalked +over by a few Sclavonian soldiers, who inhabit a castle hard by, go +regularly to an ugly unfinished church, and from thence, it is to be +hoped, to paradise; as the air of their barracks is abominable, and +kills them like blasted sheep.</p> +<p>Forlorn as this island appeared to me, I was told it was the scene +of the Doge’s pageantry at the feast of the Ascension; and the +very spot to which he sails in the <i>Bucentaur</i>, previously to wedding +the sea. You have heard enough, and if ever you looked into a +show-box, seen full sufficient of this gaudy spectacle, without my enlarging +upon the topic. I shall only say, that I was obliged to pursue, +partly, the same road as the nuptial procession, in order to reach the +beach, and was broiled and dazzled accordingly.</p> +<p>At last, after traversing some desert hillocks, all of a hop with +toads and locusts (amongst which English heretics have the honour of +being interred), I passed under an arch, and suddenly the boundless +plains of ocean opened to my view. I ran to the smooth sands, +extending on both sides out of sight, cast off my clothes, and dashed +into the waves, which were coursing one another with a gentle motion, +and breaking lightly on the shores. The tide rolled over me as +I lay floating about, buoyed up by the water, and carried me wheresoever +it listed. It might have borne me far out into the main, and exposed +me to a thousand perils, before I had been aware, so totally was I abandoned +to the illusion of the moment. My ears were filled with murmuring +undecided sounds; my limbs, stretched languidly on the surge, rose or +sunk just as it swelled or subsided. In this passive, senseless +state I remained, till the sun cast a less intolerable light, and the +fishing vessels, lying out in the bay at a great distance, spread their +sails and were coming home.</p> +<p>Hastening back over the desert of locusts, I threw myself into the +gondola; and, no wind or wave opposing, was soon wafted across to those +venerable columns, so conspicuous in the Place of St. Mark. Directing +my course immediately to the ducal palace, I entered the grand court, +ascending the Giant’s stairs, and examined at my leisure its bas-reliefs. +Then, taking the first guide that presented himself, I was shown along +several cloisters and corridors, sustained by innumerable pillars, into +the state apartments, which Tintoret and Paolo Veronese have covered +with the triumphs of their country.</p> +<p>A swarm of lawyers filled the Sala del Maggior Consiglio, and one +of the first advocates in the republic was pleading with all his might, +before a solemn row of senators. The eyes and ears of the assembly +seemed equally affected. Clouds of powder and volleys of execrations +issuing every instant from the disputants, I got out of their way; and +was led from hall to hall, and from picture to picture, with exemplary +resignation. To be sure, I was heartily tired, but behaved with +decency, having never once expressed how much I wished the chefs-d’œuvre +I had been contemplating, less smoky and numerous.</p> +<p>At last, I reached once more the colonnades at the entrance, and +caught the sea-breeze in the open porticos which front San Giorgio Maggiore. +The walls are covered in most places with grim visages sculptured in +marble, whose mouths gape for accusations, and swallow every lie that +malice and revenge can dictate. I wished for a few ears of the +same kind, dispersed about the Doge’s residence, to which one +might apply one’s own, and catch some account of the mysteries +within; some little dialogue between the Three Inquisitors, or debate +in the Council of Ten.</p> +<p>This is the tribunal which holds the wealthy nobility in continual +awe; before which they appear with trembling and terror: and whose summons +they dare not disobey. Sometimes, by way of clemency, it condemns +its victims to perpetual imprisonment in close, stifling cells, between +the leads and beams of the palace; or, unwilling to spill the blood +of a fellow-citizen, generously sinks them into dungeons, deep under +the canals which wash its foundations; so that, above and below, its +majesty is contaminated by the abodes of punishment. What other +sovereign could endure the idea of having his immediate residence polluted +with tears? or revel in his halls, conscious that many of his species +were consuming their hours in lamentations above his head, and that +but a few beams separated him from the scene of their tortures? +How ever gaily disposed, could one dance with pleasure on a pavement, +beneath which lie damp and gloomy caverns, whose inhabitants waste away +by painful degrees, and feel themselves whole years a-dying? Impressed +by these terrible ideas, I could not regard the palace without horror, +and wished for the strength of a thousand antediluvians, to level it +with the sea, lay open the secret recesses of punishment, and admit +free gales and sunshine into every den.</p> +<p>When I had thus vented my indignation, I repaired to the statue of +Neptune and invoked it to second my enterprise. Once upon a time +no deity had a freer hand at razing cities. His execution was +renowned throughout all antiquity, and the proudest monarchs deprecated +the wrath of ΚΡΕΙΩΝ ΕΝΟΣΙΧΘΩΝ. +But, like the other mighty ones of ancient days, his reign is past and +his trident disregarded. Formerly any wild spirit found favour +in the eyes of fortune, and was led along the career of glory to the +deliverance of captives and the extirpation of monsters; but, in our +degenerate times, this easy road to fame is no longer open, and the +means of producing such signal events perplexed and difficult.</p> +<p>Abandoning, therefore, the sad tenants of the Piombi to their fate, +I left the courts, and stepping into my bark, was rowed down a canal +over which the lofty walls of the palace cast a tremendous shade. +Beneath these fatal waters the dungeons I have also been speaking of +are situated. There the wretches lie marking the sound of the +oars, and counting the free passage of every gondola. Above, a +marble bridge, of bold majestic architecture, joins the highest part +of the prisons to the secret galleries of the palace; from whence criminals +are conducted over the arch to a cruel and mysterious death. I +shuddered whilst passing below; and believe it is not without cause, +this structure is named PONTE DEl SOSPIRI. Horrors and dismal +prospects haunted my fancy upon my return. I could not dine in +peace, so strongly was my imagination affected; but snatching my pencil, +I drew chasms and subterraneous hollows, the domain of fear and torture, +with chains, racks, wheels, and dreadful engines, in the style of Piranesi. +About sunset I went and refreshed myself with the cool air and cheerful +scenery of the Fondamenti nuovi, a vast quay or terrace of white marble, +which commands the whole series of isles, from San Michele’s to +Torcello,</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“That rise and glitter o’er the ambient tide.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Nothing can be more picturesque than the groups of towers and cupolas +which they present, mixed with flat roofs and low buildings, and now +and then a pine or cypress. Afar off, a little woody isle, called +Il Deserto, swells from the ocean and diversifies its expanse.</p> +<p>When I had spent a delightful half-hour in viewing the distant isles, +M. de. B. accompanied me to the Mendicanti, one of the four conservatorios, +which give the best musical education conceivable to near one hundred +young women. You may imagine how admirably those of the Mendicanti +in particular are taught, since their establishment is under Bertoni’s +direction, who breathes around him the very soul of grace and harmony. +The chapel in which we sat to hear the oratorio was dark and solemn; +a screen of lofty pillars, formed of black marble and highly polished, +excluded the glow of the western sky, and reflected the lamps which +burn perpetually before the altar. Every tribune was thronged +with people, whose profound silence showed them worthy auditors of Bertoni’s +compositions. Here were no cackling old women, or groaning Methodists, +such as infest our English churches, and scare one’s ears with +hoarse coughs accompanied by the naso obligato. All were still +and attentive, imbibing the plaintive notes of the voices with eagerness; +and scarce a countenance but seemed deeply affected with David’s +sorrows, the subject of the performance. I sat retired in a solitary +tribune, and felt them as my own. Night came on before the last +chorus was sung, and I still seem to hear its sacred melody.</p> +<p><i>August</i> 18<i>th</i>. - It rains; the air is refreshed and I +have courage to resume my pen, which the sultry weather had forced to +lie dormant so long. I like this odd town of Venice, and find +every day some new amusement in rambling about its innumerable canals +and alleys. Sometimes I go and pry about the great church of Saint +Mark, and examine the variety of marbles and mazes of delicate sculpture +with which it is covered. The cupola, glittering with gold, mosaic, +and paintings of half the wonders in the Apocalypse, never fails transporting +me to the period of the Eastern empire. I think myself in Constantinople, +and expect Michael Paleologus with all his train. One circumstance +alone prevents my observing half the treasures of the place, and holds +down my fancy, just springing into the air: I mean the vile stench which +exhales from every recess and corner of the edifice, and which all the +altars cannot subdue.</p> +<p>When oppressed by this noxious atmosphere, I run up the Campanile +in the piazza, and seating myself amongst the pillars of the gallery, +breathe the fresh gales which blow from the Adriatic; survey at my leisure +all Venice beneath me, with its azure sea, white sails, and long tracts +of islands shining in the sun. Having thus laid in a provision +of wholesome breezes, I brave the vapours of the canals, and venture +into the most curious and murky quarters of the city, in search of Turks +and Infidels, that I may ask as many questions as I please about Damascus +and Suristan, those happy countries which nature has covered with roses.</p> +<p>Asiatics find Venice very much to their liking, and all those I conversed +with allowed its customs and style of living had a good deal of conformity +to their own. The eternal lounging in coffee-houses and sipping +of sorbets, agrees perfectly well with the inhabitants of the Ottoman +empire, who stalk about here in their proper dresses, and smoke their +own exotic pipes, without being stared and wondered at, as in most other +European capitals. Some few of these Orientals are communicative +and enlightened; but, generally speaking, they know nothing beyond the +rule of three, and the commonest transactions of mercantile affairs.</p> +<p>The Greeks are by far a more lively generation, still retaining their +propensity to works of genius and imagination. Metastasio has +been lately translated into their modern jargon, and some obliging papa +or other has had the patience to put the long-winded romance of Clelia +into a Grecian dress. I saw two or three of these volumes exposed +on a stall, under the grand arcades of the public library, as I went +one day to admire the antiques in its vestibules.</p> +<p>Whilst I was intent upon my occupation, a little door, I never should +have suspected, flew open, and out popped Monsieur de V., from a place +where nothing, I believe, but broomsticks and certain other utensils +were ever before deposited. This gentleman, the most active investigator +of Homer since the days of the good bishop of Thessalonica, bespatters +you with more learning in a minute than others communicate in half a +year; quotes Arabic, Greek, Hebrew, Syriac, etc., with a formidable +fluency; and drove me from one end of the room to the other with all +the thunder of erudition. Syllables fell thicker than hail, and +in an instant I found myself so weighed down and covered, that I prayed, +for mercy’s sake, to be introduced, by way of respite, to a Laplander +whom he leads about as a curiosity; a poor, harmless, good sort of a +soul, calm and indifferent, who has acquired the words of several Oriental +languages to perfection: ideas he has, in none.</p> +<p>We went together to view a collection of medals in one of the Gradanigo +palaces, and two or three inestimable volumes, filled with paintings +that represent the dress of the ancient Venetians; so that I had an +opportunity of observing to perfection all the Lapland nothingness of +my companion. What a perfect void! Cold and silent as the +polar regions, not one passion ever throbbed in his bosom; not one bright +ray of fancy ever glittered in his mind; without love or anger, pleasure +or pain, his days fleet smoothly along: all things considered, I must +confess I envied such comfortable apathy.</p> +<p>After having passed a peaceful hour in dreaming over the medals and +rarities, M. de V. was for conducting me to the Armenian convent, but +I begged to be excused, and went to S. Giovanni e Paolo’s, a church +ever celebrated in the annals of painting, since it contains that masterpiece +of Titian, “The Martyrdom of St. Peter.” It being +a festival, the huge Gothic pillars were covered with red damask, and +the shrines of saints and worthies glimmered with tapers. The +dim chapels on each side the nave received a feeble light, and discovered +the tombs of ancient Doges, and the equestrian statues of many a doughty +General. I admired them all, but liked nothing so much as a snug +bas-relief I found out in a corner, which represents St. Mark and some +other good souls a-prosing, whilst his lion and the old serpent squabble +and scratch in the foreground of the sculpture, like cat and dog by +the fireside. After dinner, when the shadows of domes and palaces +began lengthening across the waves, I rowed out</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“On the clear hyaline, the glassy sea,”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>to observe the last sunbeams fade on the tufted gardens of the Giudecca, +and to contemplate the distant Euganean hills, once the happiest region +of Italy; where wandering nations enjoyed the simplicity of a pastoral +life, long before the arrival of Antenor. In those ancient times, +deep forests and extensive pastures covered the shores <a name="citation170a"></a><a href="#footnote170a">{170a}</a> +of the Adriatic, and innumerable flocks hung on the brow of the mountains. +This golden period ended upon the incursion of the Trojans and Heneti; +who, led by Antenor, drove away the unfortunate savages, and possessed +themselves of their habitations. <a name="citation170b"></a><a href="#footnote170b">{170b}</a> +The form of the hillocks is varied and picturesque, and the sun, sinking +behind them, suffuses their summits with tints of the brightest orange. +Scarce one evening have I failed to remark the changeful scenery of +the clouds, and to fill my mind with recollections of primeval days +and happier ages. Night generally surprises me in the midst of +my reveries; I return, lulled in my gondola by the murmur of waters, +pass about an hour with M. de R., whose imagination and sensibility +almost equal your own; then, retire to sleep, and dream of the Euganeans.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER IX</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p><i>August</i> 27<i>th</i>. - I am just returned from visiting the +isles of Burano, Torcello, and Mazorbo, distant about five miles from +Venice. To these amphibious spots the Romans, inhabitants of eastern +Lombardy, fled from the ravine of Attila; and, if we may believe Cassiodorus, +there was a time when they presented a beautiful appearance. Beyond +them, on the coast of the Lagunes, rose the once populous city of Altina, +with its six stately gates, which Dandolo mentions. <a name="citation170c"></a><a href="#footnote170c">{170c}</a> +Its neighbourhood was scattered with innumerable villas and temples, +composing altogether a prospect which Martial compares to Baiæ:</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“Æmula Baianis Altini littora villis.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>But this agreeable scene, like so many others, is passed entirely +away, and has left nothing, except heaps of stones and misshapen fragments, +to vouch for its former magnificence. Two of the islands, Costanziaco +and Amiano, that are imagined to have contained the bowers and gardens +of the Altinatians, have sunk beneath the waters; those which remain +are scarcely worthy to rise above their surface.</p> +<p>Though I was persuaded little was left to be seen above ground, I +could not deny myself the imaginary pleasure of treading a corner of +the earth once so adorned and cultivated; and of walking over the roofs, +perhaps, of concealed halls and undiscovered palaces. M. de R., +to whom I communicated my ideas, entered at once into the scheme; hiring +therefore a <i>peiotte</i> we took some provisions and music (to us +equally necessaries of life), and launched into the canal, between St. +Michael and Murano.</p> +<p>The waves coursed each other with violence, and dark clouds hung +over the grand sweep of northern mountains, whilst the west smiled with +azure and bright sunshine. Thunder rolled awfully at a distance, +and those white and greyish birds, the harbingers of storms, flitted +frequently before our bark. For some moments we were in doubt +whether to proceed; but as we advanced by a little dome in the Isle +of St. Michael, shaped like an ancient temple, the sky cleared, and +the ocean subsiding by degrees, soon presented a tranquil expanse, across +which we were smoothly wafted. Our instruments played several +delightful airs, that called forth the inhabitants of every island, +and held them silent, as if spell-bound, on the edge of their quays +and terraces, till we were out of hearing.</p> +<p>Leaving Murano far behind, Venice and its world of turrets began +to sink on the horizon, and the low desert isles beyond Mazorbo to lie +stretched out before us. Now we beheld vast wastes of <a name="citation171"></a><a href="#footnote171">{171}</a> +purple flowers, and could distinguish the low hum of the insects which +hover above them; such was the silence of the place. Coasting +these solitary fields, we wound amongst several serpentine canals, bordered +by gardens of figs and pomegranates, with neat Indian-looking inclosures +of cane and reed: an aromatic plant clothes the margin of the waters, +which the people justly dignify with the title of marine incense. +It proved very serviceable in subduing a musky odour, which attacked +us the moment we landed, and which proceeds from serpents that lurk +in the hedges. These animals, say the gondoliers, defend immense +treasures which lie buried under the ruins. Woe to those who attempt +invading them, or prying too cautiously about!</p> +<p>Not choosing to be devoured, we left many a mount of fragments unnoticed, +and made the best of our way to a little green, free from weeds or adders, +bounded on one side by a miserable shed, decorated with the name of +the Podesta’s residence, and on the other by a circular church. +Some remains of tolerable antique sculpture are enchased in the walls; +and the dome, supported by pillars of a smooth Grecian marble, though +uncouth and ill-proportioned, impresses a sort of veneration, and transports +the fancy to the twilight glimmering period when it was raised.</p> +<p>Having surveyed what little was visible, and given as much career +to our imaginations as the scene inspired, we walked over a soil composed +of crumbling bricks and cement to the cathedral; whose arches, turned +on the ancient Roman principle, convinced us that it dates as high as +the sixth or seventh century.</p> +<p>Nothing can be well more fantastic than the ornaments of this structure, +formed from the ruins of the Pagan temples of Altina, and incrusted +with a gilt mosaic, like that which covers our Edward the Confessor’s +tomb. The pavement, composed of various precious marbles, is richer +and more beautiful than one could have expected, in a place where every +other object savours of the grossest barbarism. At the farther +end, beyond the altar, appears a semicircular niche, with seats like +the gradines of a diminutive amphitheatre; above rise the quaint forms +of the apostles, in red, blue, green, and black mosaic, and in the midst +of the goodly group a sort of marble chair, cool and penitential enough, +where St. Lorenzo Giustiniani sat to hold a provincial council, the +Lord knows how long ago! The fount for holy water stands by the +principal entrance, fronting this curious recess, and seems to have +belonged to some place of Gentile worship. The figures of horned +imps cling round its sides, more devilish, more Egyptian, than any I +ever beheld. The dragons on old china are not more whimsical: +I longed to have it filled with bats’ blood, and to have sent +it by way of present to the sabbath; I can assure you it would have +done honour to their witcheries. The sculpture is not the most +delicate, but I cannot say a great deal about it, as but little light +reaches the spot where it is fixed. Indeed, the whole church is +far from luminous, its windows being narrow and near the roof, with +shutters composed of blocks of marble, which nothing but the last whirlwind, +one should think, could move from their hinges.</p> +<p>By the time we had examined every nook and corner of this singular +edifice, and caught perhaps some small portion of sanctity by sitting +in San Lorenzo’s chair, dinner was prepared in a neighbouring +convent, and the nuns, allured by the sound of our flutes and oboes, +peeped out of their cells and showed themselves by dozens at the grate. +Some few agreeable faces and interesting eyes enlivened the dark sisterhood; +all seemed to catch a gleam of pleasure from the music; two or three +of them, probably the last immured, let fall a tear, and suffered the +recollection of the world and its profane joys to interrupt for a moment +their sacred tranquillity.</p> +<p>We stayed till the sun was low, and the breezes blew cool from the +ocean, on purpose that they might listen as long as possible to a harmony +which seemed to issue, as the old abbess expressed herself, from the +gates of paradise ajar. A thousand benedictions consecrated our +departure; twilight came on just as we entered the bark and rowed out +upon the waves, agitated by a fresh gale, but fearing nothing under +the protection of St. Margherita, whose good wishes our music had secured.</p> +<p>In two hours we were safely landed at the Fondamenti nuovi, and went +immediately to the Mendicanti, where they were performing the oratorio +of Sisera. The composer, a young man, had displayed great fire +and originality in this performance; and a knowledge of character seldom +found in the most celebrated masters. The supplication of the +thirsty chieftain, and Jael’s insinuating arts and pious treachery, +are admirably expressed; but the agitation and bodily slumbers which +precede his death, are imagined in the highest strain of genius. +The terror and agony of his dreams made me start, more than once, from +my seat; and all the horrors of his assassination seemed full before +me, so fatal was the sound of the instrument, so just the conduct of +the harmony.</p> +<p>Too much applause cannot be given to the Marchetti, who sang the +part of Sisera, and seconded the composer’s ideas by the most +feeling and spirited execution. There are few things I shall regret +more at Venice, than this conservatorio. Whenever I am musically +given, I fly to it, and hear the most striking finales in Bertoni’s +and Anfosse’s operas, as long and often as I please.</p> +<p>The sight of the orchestra still makes me smile. You know, +I suppose, it is entirely of the female gender, and that nothing is +more common than to see a delicate white hand journeying across an enormous +double bass, or a pair of roseate cheeks puffing, with all their efforts, +at a French horn. Some that are grown old and Amazonian, who have +abandoned their fiddles and their lovers, take vigorously to the kettledrum; +and one poor limping lady, who had been crossed in love, now makes an +admirable figure on the bassoon.</p> +<p>Good-night! I am quite exhausted with composing a chorus for +these same Amazonians. The poetry I send you, which seems to be +some of the most picturesque and nervous an Italian ever produced. +The music takes up too much room to travel at present. One day +or other, perhaps, we may hear it in some dark grove, when the moon +is eclipsed and nature in alarm.</p> +<p>This is not the last letter you would receive from Venice, was I +not hurrying to Lucca, where Pacchierotti sings next week, in the opera +of Quinto Fabio, of all operas the most worthy to excuse such a musical +fanaticism. Adieu.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER X</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p><i>September</i> 4<i>th</i>. - I was sorry to leave Venice, and regretted +my peaceful excursions upon the Adriatic, when the Euganean hills were +lost in a golden haze, and the sun cast his departing gleam across the +waters. No bright rays illuminated my departure, but the coolness +and perfume of the air made some amends for their absence.</p> +<p>About an hour’s rowing from the isle of Saint Giorgio in Alga, +brought us to the shores of Fusina, right opposite the opening where +the Brenta mixes with the sea. This river flows calmly between +banks of verdure, crowned by poplars, with vines twining round every +stalk, and depending from tree to tree in beautiful festoons. +Beds of mint and flowers clothe the brink of the stream, except where +a tall growth of reeds and osiers lift themselves to the breezes. +I heard their whispers as we glided along; and had I been alone might +have told you what they said to me; but such aërial oracles must +be approached in solitude. The morning continued to lower as we +advanced; scarce a wind ventured to breathe; all was still and placid +as the surface of the Brenta. No sound struck my ears except the +bargemen hallooing to open the sluices, and deepen the water.</p> +<p>As yet I had not perceived an habitation; no other objects than green +inclosures and fields of Turkish corn, shaded with vines and poplars, +met my eyes wherever I turned them.</p> +<p>Our navigation, the tranquil streams and cultivated banks, in short +the whole landscape, had a sort of Chinese cast, which led me into Quang-Si +and Quang-Tong. The variety of canes, reeds, and blooming rushes, +shooting from the slopes, confirmed my fancies, and when I beheld the +yellow nenupha expanding its broad leaves to the current, I thought +of the Tao-Se, and venerated one of the chief ingredients in their beverage +of immortality. Landing where this magic vegetation appeared most +luxuriant, I cropped the flowers; but searched in vain for the kernels, +which, according to the doctrine of the Bonzes, produce such wonderful +effects. Though I was deceived in this pursuit, I gained, however, +in another. The bank upon which I had sprung presented a continual +walk of level turf, surrounded by vines, concealing the trees which +supported them, and forming the most delightful bowers. Under +these garlands I passed, and gathered the ripe clusters which dangled +around, convinced that Noah had discovered a far superior beverage to +that of the Tao-Sé. Whilst I was thus agreeably employed, +it began to rain, and the earth to exhale a fresh, reviving odour, highly +grateful to one who had been so long confined to walls and waters. +After breathing nothing but the essence of the canals and the flavours +of the Rialto, after the jingling of bells and brawls of the gondoliers, +imagine how agreeable it was to scent the perfume of clover, to tread +a springing herbage, and listen in silence to the showers pattering +amongst the leaves. I staid so long amidst the vines, that it +grew late before we rowed by the Mira, a village of palaces, whose courts +and gardens, as magnificent as statues, terraces, and vases can make +them, compose a grand, though far from a rural prospect.</p> +<p>Not being greatly delighted with such scenery, we stayed no longer +than our dinner required, and reached the Dolo an hour before sunset. +Passing the great sluices, whose gates opened with a thundering noise, +we continued our course along the peaceful Brenta, winding its broad +full stream through impenetrable copses, surmounted by tall waving poplars. +Day was about to close when we reached Fiesso; and it being a misty +evening, I could scarcely distinguish the pompous facade of the Pisani +palace. That where we supped looks upon a broad mass of foliage, +which I contemplated with pleasure as it sank in the dusk.</p> +<p>We walked a long while under a pavilion stretched before the entrance, +breathing the freshness of the wood after the shower, and hearing the +drops trickle down the awning above our heads. The Galuzzi sang +some of her father Ferandini’s compositions, with a fire, an energy, +an expression, that one moment raised me to a pitch of heroism, and +the next dissolved me in tears. Her cheek was flushed with inspiration, +her eyes glistened; the whole tone of her countenance was like that +of a person rapt and inspired. I forgot both time and place whilst +she was breathing forth such celestial harmony. The night stole +imperceptibly away, and morning dawned before I awoke from my trance. +I don’t recollect ever to have passed an evening, which every +circumstance conspired so much to improve. In general, my musical +pleasures suffer terrible abatements from the phlegm and stupidity of +my neighbourhood, but here every one seemed to catch the flame, and +to listen with reciprocal delight. The C--- threw quick around +her the glancing fires of genius: and, what with the song of the Galuzzi, +and those intellectual meteors, I scarcely knew to what element I was +transported; and doubted for several moments whether I had not fallen +into a celestial dream. I loathed the light of the morning star, +which summoned me to depart; and, if I may express myself so poetically,</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“Cast many a longing, ling’ring look behind.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XI</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p><i>September</i> 5<i>th</i>. - The glow and splendour of the rising +sun, for once in my life, drew little of my attention. I was too +deeply plunged in my reveries, to notice the landscape which lay before +me; and the walls of Padua presented themselves some time ere I was +aware. At any other moment, how sensibly should I have been affected +with their appearance! how many ideas of Antenor and his Trojans, would +have thronged into my memory! but now I regarded the scene with indifference, +and passed many a palace, and many a woody garden, with my eyes riveted +to the ground. The first object that appeared, upon lifting them +up, was a confused pile of spires and cupolas, dedicated to blessed +St. Anthony, who betook himself to the conversion of fish, after the +heretics would lend no ear to his discourses.</p> +<p>You are too well apprised of the veneration I have always entertained +for this ingenious preacher, to doubt that I immediately repaired to +his shrine and offered up my little orisons before it. Mine was +a disturbed spirit, and required all the balm of St. Anthony’s +kindness to appease it. Perhaps you will say I had better gone +to bed, and applied myself to my sleepy friend, the pagan divinity. +’Tis probable that you are in the right; but I could not retire +to rest without venting some portion of effervescence in sighs and supplications. +The nave was filled with decrepit women and feeble children, kneeling +by baskets of vegetables and other provisions; which, by good Anthony’s +interposition, they hoped to sell advantageously in the course of the +day. Beyond these, nearer the choir, and in a gloomier part of +the edifice, knelt a row of rueful penitents, smiting their breasts, +and lifting their eyes to heaven. Further on, in front of the +dark recess, where the sacred relics are deposited, a few desperate, +melancholy sinners lay prostrate.</p> +<p>To these I joined myself, and fell down on the steps before the shrine. +The sunbeams had not yet penetrated into this religious quarter; and +the only light it received proceeded from the golden lamps, which hang +in clusters round the sanctuary. A lofty altar, decked with superstitious +prodigality, conceals the holy pile from profane glances. Those +who are profoundly touched with its sanctity may approach, and walking +round, look through the crevices of the tomb, and rub their noses against +the identical bones of St. Anthony, which, it is observed, exude a balsamic +odour. But supposing a traveller ever so heretical, I would advise +him by no means to neglect this pilgrimage; since every part of the +recess he visits is decorated with the most exquisite sculptures. +Sansovino and the best artists have vied with each other in carving +the alto relievos of the arcade, which, for design and execution, would +do honour to the sculptors of antiquity.</p> +<p>Having observed these objects with much less exactness than they +merited, and acted perhaps too capital a part amongst the devotees, +I hastened to the inn, luckily hard by, and one of the best I am acquainted +with. Here I soon fell asleep in defiance of sunshine. ’Tis +true my slumbers were not a little agitated. St. Anthony had been +deaf to my prayer, and I still found myself a frail, infatuated mortal.</p> +<p>At five I got up; we dined, and afterwards, scarcely knowing, nor +much caring, what became of us, we strolled to the great hall of the +town; an enormous edifice, as large as that of Westminster, but free +from stalls, or shops, or nests of litigation. The roof, one spacious +vault of brown timber, casts a solemn gloom, which was still increased +by the lateness of the hour, and not diminished by the wan light, admitted +through the windows of pale blue glass. The size and shape of +this colossal chamber, the coving of the roof, with beams like perches +for the feathered race, stretching across it, and, above all, the watery +gleams that glanced through the casements, possessed my fancy with ideas +of Noah’s ark, and almost persuaded me I beheld that extraordinary +vessel. The representation one sees of it in Scheutzer’s +“Physica Sacra” seems to be formed upon this very model, +and for several moments I indulged the chimera of imagining myself confined +within its precincts. How willingly, could I but choose my companions, +would I encounter a deluge, to float whole years instead of months upon +the waves!</p> +<p>We remained walking to and fro in the ark, till the twilight faded +into total darkness. It was then full time to retire, as the guardian +of the place was by no means formed to divine our diluvian ideas.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XII</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p><i>September</i> 6<i>th</i>. - At Padua, I was too near the last +and one of the most celebrated abodes of Petrarch, to make the omission +of a visit excusable; had I not been in a disposition to render such +a pilgrimage peculiarly pleasing. I set forwards from Padua after +dinner, so as to arrive some time before sunset. Nothing could +be finer than the day; and I had every reason to promise myself a serene +and delicious hour, before the sun might go down. I put the poems +of Petrarch into my pocket; and, as my road lay chiefly through lanes, +planted on either side with mulberries and poplars, from which vines +hung dangling in careless festoons, I found many a bowering shade, where +I sat, at intervals, to indulge my pensive humour over some ejaculatory +sonnet; as the pilgrim, on his journey to Loretto, reposes here and +there, to offer his prayers and meditations to the Virgin. In +little more than an hour and half, I found myself in the midst of the +Euganean hills, and, after winding almost another hour amongst them, +I got, before I was well aware, into the village of Arqua. Nothing +can be more sequestered or obscure than its situation. It had +rather a deserted appearance; several of its houses being destitute +of inhabitants, and crumbling into ruins. Two or three of them, +however, exhibited ancient towers, richly mantled with ivy, and surrounded +with cypress, that retained the air of having once belonged to persons +of consideration. Their present abandoned state nourished the +melancholy idea with which I entered the village. Could one approach +the last retreat of genius, and not look for some glow of its departed +splendour?</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“Dear to the pensive eye of fond regret,<br />Is light still +beaming from a sun that’s set.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>The residence of Petrarch at Arqua is said to have drawn thither +from Padua the society of its more enlightened citizens. This +city, whilst Petrarch lived in its neighbourhood, was engaged in rebellion +against the Venetians; and Francis de Carrara, the head of it, went +often to Arqua, to consult Petrarch; when he found himself obliged to +sue to Venice for peace. The poet was indeed deputed, upon this +occasion, his ambassador to the state; as being a person whose character +and credit were most likely to appease its wrath. His success +in this embassy might, perhaps, have been some recompense for an employment +he accepted with much regret, as it forced him from his beloved retirement. +In a letter to one of his friends, written about this period of his +life, he says: “I pass the greatest part of the year in the country, +which I have always preferred to cities: I read; I write; I think: thus, +my life and my pleasures are like those of youth. I take pains +to hide myself; but I cannot escape visits: it is an honour which displeases +and wearies me. In my little house on the Euganean hills, I hope +to pass my few remaining days in tranquillity, and to have always before +my eyes my dead, or my absent, friends.” I was musing on +these circumstances as I walked along the village, till a venerable +old woman, seated at her door with her distaff in her hand, observing +me, soon guessed the cause of my excursion; and offered to guide me +to Petrarch’s house. The remainder of my way was short, +and well amused by my guide’s enthusiastic expressions of veneration +for the poet’s memory; which, she assured me, she felt but in +common with the other inhabitants of the village. When we came +to the door of the house, we met the peasant, its present possessor. +The old woman, recommending the stranger and his curiosity to her neighbour’s +good offices, departed. I entered immediately, and ran over every +room, which the peasant assured me, in confirmation of what I before +learnt from better authority, were preserved, as nearly as they could +be, in the state Petrarch had left them. The house and premises, +having unfortunately been transmitted from one enthusiast of his name +to another, no tenants have been admitted, but under the strictest prohibition +of making any change in the form of the apartments, or in the memorial +relics belonging to the place: and, to say the truth, everything I saw +in it, save a few articles of the peasant’s furniture in the kitchen, +has an authentic appearance. Three of the rooms below stairs are +particularly shown, and they have nothing in them but what once belonged +to the poet. In one, which I think they call his parlour, is a +very antique cupboard; where, it is supposed, he deposited some precious +part of his literary treasure. The ceiling is painted in a grotesque +manner. A niche in the wall contains the skeleton of his favourite +cat, with a Latin epigram beneath, of Petrarch’s composition. +It is good enough to deserve being copied; but the lateness of the hour +did not allow me time. A little room, beyond this, is said to +have been his study: the walls of it, from top to bottom, are scribbled +over with sonnets, and poetical eulogies on Petrarch, ancient and modern: +many of which are subscribed by persons, of distinguished rank and talents, +Italians as well as strangers. Here, too, is the bard’s +old chair, and on it is displayed a great deal of heavy, ornamental +carpentry; which required no stretch of faith to be believed the manufacture +of the fourteenth century. You may be sure, I placed myself in +it, with much veneration, and the most resigned assent to Mrs. Dobson’s +relation: that Petrarch, sitting in this same chair, was found dead +in his library, with one arm leaning on a book. Who could sit +in Petrarch’s chair, void of some effect? I rose not from +it without a train of pensive sentiments and soft impressions; which +I ever love to indulge. I was now led into a larger room, behind +that I first saw; where, it is likely enough, the poet, according to +the peasant’s information, received the visits of his friends. +Its walls were adorned with landscapes and pastoral scenes, in such +painting as Petrarch himself might, and is supposed to have executed. +Void of taste and elegance, either in the design or colouring, they +bear some characteristic marks of the age to which they are, with no +improbability, assigned; and, separate from the merit of exhibiting +repeatedly the portraits of Petrarch and Laura, are a valuable sketch +of the rude infancy of the art, where it rose with such hasty vigour +to perfection. Having seen all that was left unchanged in this +consecrated mansion, I passed through a room, said to have been the +bard’s bed-room, and stepped into the garden, situated on a green +slope, descending directly from the house. It is now rather an +orchard than a garden; a spot of small extent, and without much else +to recommend it, but that it once was the property of Petrarch. +It is not pretended to have retained the form in which he left it. +An agreeably wild and melancholy kind of view, which it commands over +the Euganean hills, and which I beheld under the calm glow of approaching +sunset, must often, at the same moment, have soothed the poet’s +anxious feelings, and hushed his active imagination, as it did my own, +into a delicious repose. Having lingered here till the sun was +sunk beneath the horizon, I was led a little way farther in the village, +to see Petrarch’s fountain. Hippocrene itself could not +have been more esteemed by the poet, than this, his gift, by all the +inhabitants of Arqua. The spring is copious, clear, and of excellent +water; I need not say with what relish I drank of it. The last +religious act in my little pilgrimage was a visit to the church-yard; +where I strewed a few flowers, the fairest of the season, on the poet’s +tomb; and departed for Padua by the light of the moon.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XIII</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p><i>September</i> 7<i>th</i>. - Immediately after breakfast, we went +to St. Justina’s, a noble temple, designed by Palladio, and worthy +of his reputation. The dimensions are vast, and the equal distribution +of light and ornament truly admirable. Upon my first entrance, +the long perspective of domes above, and chequered marble below, struck +me with surprise and pleasure. I roved about the spacious aisles +for several minutes, then sat down under the grand cupola, and admired +the beautiful symmetry of the building.</p> +<p>Both extremities of the cross aisles are terminated by altar and +tombs of very remote antiquity, adorned with uncouth sculptures of the +Evangelists, supported by wreathed columns of alabaster, round which, +to my no small astonishment, four or five gawky fellows were waddling +on their knees, persuaded, it seems, that this strange devotion would +cure the rheumatism, or any other aches with which they were afflicted. +You can have no conception of the ridiculous attitudes into which they +threw themselves; nor the difficulty with which they squeezed along, +between the middle column of the tomb and those which surrounded it. +No criminal in the pillory ever exhibited a more rueful appearance, +no swine ever scrubbed itself more fervently than these infatuated lubbers.</p> +<p>I left them hard at work, taking more exercise than had been their +lot for many a day; and, mounting into the organ gallery, listened to +Turini’s <a name="citation182"></a><a href="#footnote182">{182}</a> +music with infinite satisfaction. The loud harmonious tones of +the instrument filled the whole edifice; and, being repeated by the +echoes of its lofty domes and arches, produced a wonderful effect. +Turini, aware of this circumstance, adapts his compositions with great +intelligence to the place, and makes his slave, the organ, send forth +the most affecting, long-protracted sounds, which languish in the air, +and are some time a-dying. Nothing can be more original than his +style. Deprived of sight by an unhappy accident, in the flower +of his days, he gave up his entire soul to music, and scarcely exists +but through its medium.</p> +<p>When we came out of St. Justina’s, the azure of the sky and +the softness of the air inclined us to think of some excursion. +Where could I wish to go, but to the place in which I had been so delighted? +Besides, it was proper to make the C. another visit, and proper to see +the Pisani palace, which happily I had before neglected. All these +proprieties considered, M. de R. accompanied me to Fiesso.</p> +<p>The sun was just sunk when we arrived; the whole ether in a glow, +and the fragrance of the arched citron alleys delightful. Beneath +them I walked in the cool, till the Galuzzi began once more her enchanting +melody. She sung till the moon tempted the fascinating G---a and +myself to stray on the banks of the Brenta. A profound calm reigned +upon the woods and the waters, and moonlight added serenity to a scene +naturally peaceful. We listened to the faint murmurs of the leaves, +and the distant rural noises, observing the gleams that quivered on +the river, and discovered a mutual delight in contemplating the same +objects.</p> +<p>We supped late: before the Galuzzi had repeated the airs which had +most affected me, morning began to dawn.</p> +<p><i>September</i> 8<i>th</i>. - It was evening, and I was still asleep; +not in a tranquil slumber, but at the mercy of fantastic visions. +The want of sound repose had thrown me into a feverish impatient mood, +that was alone to be subdued by harmony. Scarcely had I snatched +some slight refreshment, before I flew to the great organ at St. Justina’s, +but tried, this time, to compose myself in vain. M. de R., finding +my endeavours unsuccessful, proposed, by way of diverting my attention, +that we should set out immediately for one of the Euganean hills about +five or seven miles from Padua, at the foot of which some antique baths +had very lately been discovered. I consented, without hesitation, +little concerned whither I went, or what happened to me, provided the +scene was often shifted. The lanes and enclosures we passed on +our road to the hills, appeared in all the gaiety that verdure, flowers, +and sunshine could give them. But my pleasures were overcast, +and I beheld every object, however cheerful, through a dusky medium. +Deeply engaged in conversation, distance made no impression; and we +beheld the meadows, over which the ruins are scattered, lie before us, +when we still imagined ourselves several miles away. Had I but +enjoyed my former serenity, how agreeably would such a landscape have +affected my imagination! How lightly should I not have run over +the herbage, and viewed the irregular shrubby hills, diversified with +clumps of cypress, verdant spots, and pastoral cottages, such as Zuccarelli +loved to paint! No scene could be more smiling than this which +here presented itself, or answer, in a fuller degree, the ideas I had +formed of Italy.</p> +<p>Leaving our carriage at the entrance of the mead, we traversed its +flowery surface, and shortly perceived among the grass an oblong basin, +incrusted with pure white marble. Most of the slabs are large +and perfect, apparently brought from Greece, and still retaining their +polished smoothness. The pipes to convey the waters are still +discernible; in short, the whole ground-plan may be easily traced. +Nothing more remains: the pillars and arcades are fallen, and one or +two pedestals alone vouch for their former existence. Near the +principal bath, we remarked the platforms of several circular apartments, +paved with mosaic, in a neat simple taste, far from inelegant. +Weeds have not yet sprung up amongst the crevices; and the universal +freshness of the ruin shows that it has not been long exposed.</p> +<p>Theodoric is the prince to whom these structures are attributed; +and Cassiodorus, the prime chronicler of the country, is quoted to maintain +the supposition. My spirit was too much engaged to make any learned +parade, or to dispute upon a subject, which I abandon, with all its +glories, to calmer and less impatient minds.</p> +<p>Having taken a cursory view of the ruins in the mead, we ascended +the hill which borders upon it, and surveyed a prospect of the same +nature, though in a more lovely and expanded style, than that which +I beheld from Mosolente. Padua crowns the landscape, with its +towers and cupolas rising from a continued grove; and, from the drawings +I have seen, I should conjecture that Damascus presents somewhat of +a similar appearance.</p> +<p>Taking our eyes off this extensive prospect, we turned them to the +fragments beneath our feet. The walls appear plainly composed +of the <i>opus reticulatum</i> so universal in the environs of Naples. +A sort of terrace, with the bases of columns circling the mount, leads +me to imagine here were formerly arcades and porticos, for enjoying +the view; for on the summit I could trace no vestiges of any considerable +structure, and am therefore inclined to conclude, that nothing more +than a colonnade surrounded the hill, leading perhaps to some slight +fane, or pavilion, for the recreation of the bathers below.</p> +<p>A profusion of aromatic flowers covered the slopes, and exhaled additional +perfumes, as the sun declined, and the still hour approached, which +was wont to spread over my mind a divine composure, and to restore the +tranquillity I might have lost in the day. But now it diffused +in vain its reviving coolness, and I remained, if possible, more sad +and restless than before.</p> +<p>To produce such a revolution, divine how I must have been fascinated! +and be not surprised at my repeating all the way that pathetic sonnet +of Petrarch:</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“O giorno, o ora, o ultimo momento,<br />O stelle congiurate +a ’mpoverirme!<br />O fido sguardo, or che volei tu dirme,<br />Partend’ +io, per non esser mai contento?”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p><i>September</i> 9<i>th</i>. - You may imagine how I felt when the +hour of leaving Padua drew near. It happened to be a high festival, +and mass celebrated at the grand church of St. Anthony, with more than +ordinary splendour. The music drawing us thither, we found every +chapel twinkling with lights, and the choir filled with a vapour of +incense. Through its medium several cloth of gold figures discovered +themselves, ministering before the altar, and acting their parts with +a sacred pomposity, wonderfully imposing. I attended very little +to their functions, but the plaintive tones of the voices and instruments, +so consonant with my own feelings, melted me into tears, and gave me, +no doubt, the exterior of exalted piety. Guadazni sang amongst +the other musicians, but seemed to be sinking apace into devotion and +obscurity. The ceremony ended, I took leave of M. de R. with sincere +regret, and was driven away to Vicenza. Of my journey I scarce +know any more than that the evening was cold and rainy, that I shivered +and was miserable.</p> +<p><i>September</i> 10<i>th</i>. - The morning being overcast, I went, +full of the spirit of Æschylus, to the Olympic Theatre, and vented +my evil temper in reciting some of the most tremendous verses of his +furies. The august front of the scene, and its three grand streets +of fanes and palaces, inspired me with the loftiest sentiments of the +Grecian drama; but the dubious light admitted through windows, scarce +visible between the rows of statues which crown the entablature, sunk +me into fits of gloom and sadness. I mused a long while in the +darkest and most retired recess of the edifice, fancying I had penetrated +into a real and perfect monument of antiquity, which till this moment +had remained undiscovered. It is impossible to conceive a structure +more truly classical, or to point out a single ornament which has not +the best antique authority. I am not in the least surprised that +the citizens of Vicenza enthusiastically gave in to Palladio’s +plan, and sacrificed large sums to erect so beautiful a model. +When finished, they procured, at a vast expense, the representation +of a Grecian tragedy, with its chorus and majestic decorations. +You can enter into the rapture of an artist, who sees his fondest vision +realized; and can easily conceive how it was, that Palladio esteemed +this compliment the most flattering reward. After I had given +scope to the fancies which the scene suggested, we set out for Verona.</p> +<p>The situation is striking and picturesque. A long line of battlement +walls, flanked by venerable towers, mounts the hill in a grand irregular +sweep, and incloses many a woody garden and grove of slender cypress. +Beyond rises an awful assembly of mountains; opposite to which a fertile +plain presents itself, decked with all the variety of meads and thickets, +olive-grounds and vineyards.</p> +<p>Amongst these our road kept winding till we entered the city gate, +and passed (the post knows how many streets and alleys in the way!) +to the inn, a lofty, handsome-looking building; but so full that we +were obliged to take up with an apartment on its very summit, open to +all the winds, like the magic chamber Apuleius mentions, and commanding +the roofs of half Verona. Here and there a pine shot up amongst +them, and the shady hills, terminating the perspective with their walls +and turrets, formed a romantic scene.</p> +<p>Placing our table in a balcony, to enjoy the prospect with greater +freedom, we feasted upon fish from the Lago di Garda, and the delicious +fruits of the country, - grapes worthy of Canaan, and peaches such as +Eden itself might have gloried in producing. Thus did I remain, +solacing myself, breathing the cool air, and remarking the evening tints +of the mountains. Neither the paintings of Count this, nor the +antiquities of the Marquis t’other, could tempt me from my aërial +situation; I refused hunting out the famous Paolos scattered over the +town, and sat like the owl in the Georgics,</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“Solis et occasom servans de culmine summo.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Twilight drawing on, I left my haunt, and stealing downstairs, inquired +for a guide to conduct me to the amphitheatre, perhaps the most entire +monument of Roman days. The people of the house, instead of bringing +me a quiet peasant, officiously delivered me up to a professed antiquary, +one of those diligent plausible young men, to whom, God help me! I have +so capital an aversion. This sweet spark displayed all his little +erudition, and flourished away upon cloacas and vomitoriums with eternal +fluency. He was very profound in the doctrine of conduits, and +knew to admiration how the filthiness of all the amphitheatre was disposed +of; but perceiving my inattention, and having just grace enough to remark +that I chose one side of the street when he preferred the other, and +sometimes trotted through despair in the kennel, he made me a pretty +bow, I threw him half-a-crown, and seeing the ruins before me, traversed +a gloomy arcade and emerged alone into the arena. A smooth turf +covers its surface, from which a spacious row of gradines rises to a +majestic elevation. Four arches, with their simple Doric ornament, +alone remain of the grand circle which once lifted itself above the +highest seats of the amphitheatre; and, had it not been for Gothic violence, +this part of the structure would have equally resisted the ravages of +time. Nothing can be more exact than the preservation of the gradines; +not a block has sunk from its place, and whatever trifling injuries +they may have received have been carefully repaired. The two chief +entrances are rebuilt with solidity and closed by portals, no passage +being permitted through the theatre except at public shows and representations, +sometimes still given in the arena.</p> +<p>When I paced slowly across it, silence reigned undisturbed amongst +the awful ruins, and nothing moved, save the weeds and grasses which +skirt the walls and tremble with the faintest breeze.</p> +<p>I liked the idea of being thus shut in on every side by endless gradines, +abandoned to a stillness and solitude I was so peculiarly disposed to +taste. Throwing myself upon the grass in the middle of the arena, +I enjoyed the freedom of my situation; and pursued the last tracks of +light, as they faded behind the solitary arches, which rose above the +rest. Red and fatal were the tints of the western sky; the wind +blew chill and hollow, and something more than common seemed to issue +from the withering herbage on the walls. I started up, fled through +a dark arcade, where water falls drop by drop, and arrived, panting, +in the great square before the ruins. Directing my steps across +it, I reached an ancient castle, once inhabited by the Scaligeri, sovereigns +of Verona. Hard by appeared the ruins of a triumphal arch, which +most antiquarians ascribe to Vitruvius, enriched with delicate scrolls +and flowery ornaments. I could have passed half-an-hour very agreeably +in copying these elegant sculptures; but night covering them with her +shades, I returned home to the Corso; where the outlines of several +palaces, designed by Michel San Michele, attracted my attention. +But it was too dusky to examine their details.</p> +<p><i>September</i> 11<i>th</i>. - Traversing once more the grand piazza, +and casting a last glance upon the amphitheatre, we passed under a lofty +arch which terminates the perspective, and left Verona by a wide, irregular, +picturesque street, commanding, whenever you look back, a striking scene +of towers, cypress, and mountains.</p> +<p>The country, between this beautiful town and Mantua, presents one +continued grove of dwarfish mulberries, among which start up innumerable +barren hills. Now and then a knot of poplars diversify their craggy +summits, and sometimes a miserable shed. Mantua itself rises out +of a morass formed by the Mincio, whose course, in most places, is so +choked up with reeds as to be scarcely discernible. It requires +a creative imagination to discover any charms in such a prospect, and +a strong prepossession not to be disgusted with the scene where Virgil +was born. For my own part, I approached this neighbourhood with +proper deference, and began to feel the God, but finding no tufted tree +on which I could suspend my lyre, or verdant bank which invited to repose, +I abandoned poetry and entered the city in despair.</p> +<p>The beating of drums, and sight of German whiskers, finished what +croaking frogs and stagnant ditches had begun. Every classic idea +being scared by such sounds and such objects, I dined in dudgeon, and +refused stirring out till late in the evening.</p> +<p>A few paces from the town stand the remains of the palace where the +Gonzagas formerly resided. This I could not resist looking at, +and was amply rewarded. Several of the apartments, adorned by +the bold pencil of Julio Romano, merit the most exact attention; and +the grotesques, with which the stucco ceilings are covered, equal the +celebrated loggios of the Vatican. I don’t recollect ever +having seen these elegant designs engraven, and believe it would be +perfectly worth the pains of some capital artist to copy them. +Being in fresco upon damp neglected walls, each year diminishes their +number, and every winter moulders some beautiful figure away.</p> +<p>The subjects, mostly from antique fables, are treated with all the +purity and gracefulness of Raphael. Amongst others the story of +Polypheme is very conspicuous. Acis appears, reclined with his +beloved Galatea, on the shore of the ocean, whilst their gigantic enemy, +seated above on the brow of Ætna, seems by the paleness and horrors +of his countenance to meditate some terrible revenge.</p> +<p>When it was too late to examine the paintings any longer, I walked +into a sort of court, or rather garden, which had been decorated with +fountains and antique statues. Their fragments still remain amongst +weeds and beds of flowers, for every corner of the place is smothered +with vegetation. Here nettles grow thick and rampant: there, tuberoses +and jessamine cling around mounds of ruins, which during the elegant +reign of the Gonzagas led to grottos and subterranean apartments, concealed +from vulgar eyes, and sacred to the most refined enjoyments. I +gathered a tuberose that sprang from a shell of white marble, once trickling +with water, now half filled with mould, and carrying it home, shut myself +up for the rest of the night, inhaled its perfume, and fell a-dreaming.</p> +<p><i>September</i> 12<i>th</i>. - A shower having fallen, the air was +refreshed, and the drops still glittered upon the vines, through which +our road conducted us. Three or four miles from Mantua the scene +changed to extensive grounds of rice, and meads of the tenderest verdure +watered by springs, whose frequent meanders gave to the whole prospect +the appearance of a vast green carpet shot with silver. Further +on we crossed the Po, and passing Guastalla, entered a woody country +full of inclosures and villages; herds feeding in the meadows, and poultry +parading before every wicket.</p> +<p>The peasants were busied in winnowing their corn; or, mounted upon +the elms and poplars, gathering the rich clusters from the vines that +hang streaming in braids from one branch to another. I was surprised +to find myself already in the midst of the vintage, and to see every +road crowded with carts and baskets bringing it along; you cannot imagine +a pleasanter scene.</p> +<p>Round Reggio it grew still more lively, and on the other side of +that agreeable little city, I remarked many a cottage that Tityrus might +have inhabited, with its garden and willow hedge in flower, swarming +with bees. Our road, the smoothest conceivable, led us, perhaps +too rapidly, by so cheerful a landscape. I caught glimpses of +fields and copses as we fled along, that could have afforded me amusement +for hours, and orchards on gentle acclivities, beneath which I could +have walked till evening. The trees literally bent under their +loads of fruit, and innumerable ruddy apples lay scattered upon the +ground -</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“Strata jacent passim sus quæque sub arbore poma.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Beyond these rich masses of foliage, to which the sun lent additional +splendour, at the utmost extremity of the pastures, rose the irregular +ridge of the Apennines, whose deep blue presented a striking contrast +to the glowing colours of the foreground. I fixed my eyes on the +chain of distant mountains, and indulged, as usual, my conjectures of +what was going forward on their summits; of those who tended goats on +the edge of the precipice; traversed, at this moment, the dark thickets +of pines, and passed their lives in yonder sheds, contented and unknown. +Such were the dreams that filled my fancy, and kept it incessantly employed +till it was dusk, and the moon began to show herself; the same moon +which, but a few days ago, had seen me so happy at Fiesso. Her +soft light reposed upon the meads, that had been newly mown, and the +shadows of tall poplars were cast aslant them. I left my carriage, +and running into the dim haze, abandoned myself to the recollection +it inspired. During an hour, I kept continually flying forwards; +bounding from enclosure to enclosure like a hunted antelope, and forgetting +where I was or whither I was going. One sole idea filled my mind, +and led me on with such heedless rapidity, that I stumbled over stones +and bushes, and entangled myself on every wreath of vines which opposed +my progress. At length, having wandered where chance or the wildness +of my fancy led, till the lateness of the evening alarmed me, I regained +the chaise as fast as I could, and arrived between ten and eleven at +the place of my destination.</p> +<p><i>September</i> 13<i>th</i>. - Having but a moment or two at liberty, +I hurried early in the morning to the palace, and entered an elegant +Ionic court, with arcades of the whitest stone, through which I caught +peeps of a clear blue sky and groves of cypresses. Some few good +paintings still adorn the apartments, but the best part of the collection +has been disposed of, for a hundred thousand sequins, amongst which +was that inestimable picture, the Notte of Corregio. An excellent +copy remained and convinced me the original was not undeservedly celebrated. +None but the pencil of Corregio ever designed such graceful angels, +nor imagined such a pearly dawn to cast around them. Ten thousand +times, I dare say, has the subject of the Nativity been treated, and +as many painters have failed in rendering it so pleasing. The +break of day, the first smiles of the celestial infant, and the truth, +the simplicity of every countenance, cannot be too warmly admired. +In the other rooms, no picture gave me more pleasure than Jacob’s +Vision by Domenico Feti. I gazed several minutes at the grand +confusion of clouds and seraphim descending around the patriarch, and +wished for a similar dream.</p> +<p>Having spent the little time I had remaining in contemplating this +object, I hastened from the palace and left Modena.</p> +<p>We traversed a champagne country in our way to Bologna, whose richness +and fertility increased in proportion as we drew near that celebrated +mart of lap-dogs and sausages. A chain of hills commands the city, +variegated with green inclosures and villas innumerable, almost every +one of which has its grove of chestnuts and cypresses. On the +highest acclivity of this range appears the magnificent convent of Madonna +del Monte, embosomed in wood, and joined to the town by a corridor a +league in length. This vast portico, ascending the steeps and +winding amongst the thickets, sometimes concealed and sometimes visible, +produces an effect wonderfully grand and singular. I longed to +have mounted the height by so extraordinary a passage; and hope on some +future day to be better acquainted with Saint Maria del Monte.</p> +<p>At present I thought of little else, to say truth, but what I had +seen at Fiesso; and what I was to hear at Lucca. The anxiety inspired +by the one, and impatience by the other, rendered me shamefully insensible +to the merits of Bologna (where I passed near two hours), and of which +I can add nothing but that it is very much out of humour, an earthquake +and Cardinal Buoncompagni having disarranged both land and people. +For half-a-year the ground continued trembling; and for these last months, +the legate and senators have grumbled and scratched incessantly; so +that, between natural and political commotions, the Bolognese must have +passed an agreeable summer.</p> +<p>Such a report of the situation of things, you may suppose, was not +likely to retard my journey. I put off delivering my letters to +another opportunity; ran up a tall slender tower as high as the Campanile +di San Marco, by way of exercise; and proceeded immediately after dinner +towards the mountains. We were soon in the midst of crags and +stony channels, that stream with ten thousand rills in the winter season, +but during the summer months reflect every sunbeam, and harbour half +the scorpions in the country.</p> +<p>For many a toilsome league our prospect consisted of nothing but +dreary hillocks and intervening wastes, more barren and mournful than +those to which Mary Magdalene retired. Sometimes a crucifix or +chapel peeped out of the parched fern and grasses, with which these +desolate fields are clothed; and now and then we met a goggle-eyed pilgrim +trudging along, and staring about him as if he waited only for night +and opportunity to have additional reasons for hurrying to Jerusalem.</p> +<p>During three or four hours that we continued ascending, the scene +increased in sterility and desolation; but, at the end of our second +post, the landscape began to alter for the better: little green valleys +at the base of tremendous steeps, discovered themselves, scattered over +with oaks, and freshened with running waters, which the nakedness of +the impending rocks set off to advantage. The sides of the cliffs +in general consist of rude misshapen masses; but their summits are smooth +and verdant, and continually browsed by herds of white goats, which +were gambolling on the edge of the precipices as we passed beneath.</p> +<p>I joined one of these frisking assemblies, whose shadows were stretched +by the setting sun along the level herbage. There I sat a few +minutes whilst they shook their beards at me, and tried to scare me +with all their horns; but I was not to be frightened, and would offer +up my adorations to departing day, in spite of their caperings. +Being tired with skipping and butting at me in vain, the whole herd +trotted away, and I after them. They led me a dance from crag +to crag and from thicket to thicket.</p> +<p>It was growing dusky apace, and wreaths of smoke began to ascend +from the mysterious depths of the valleys. I was ignorant what +monster inhabited such retirements, so gave over my pursuit, lest some +Polypheme or other might make me repent it. I looked around, the +carriage was out of sight; but hearing the neighing of horses at a distance, +I soon came up with them, and mounted another rapid ascent, whence an +extensive tract of cliff and forest land was discernible.</p> +<p>The rocks here formed a spacious terrace; along which I continued +surveying the distant groves, and marking the solemn approach of night. +The sky was hung with storms, and a pale moon seemed to advance with +difficulty amongst broken and tempestuous clouds. It was an hour +to reap plants with brazen sickles, and to meditate upon revenge.</p> +<p>A chill wind blew from the highest peak of the Apennines, inspiring +evil, and making a dismal rustle amongst the woods of chestnut that +hung on the mountain’s side, through which we were forced to pass. +I never heard such fatal murmurs; nor felt myself so gloomily. +I walked out of the sound of the carriage, where the glimmering moonlight +prevailed, and began interpreting the language of the leaves, not greatly +to my own advantage or that of any being in the universe. I was +no prophet of good, but full of melancholy bodings, and something that +bordered upon despair. Had I but commanded an oracle, as ancient +visionaries were wont, I should have thrown whole nations into dismay.</p> +<p>How long I continued in this strange temper I cannot pretend to say, +but believe it was midnight before we emerged from the oracular forest, +and saw faintly before us the huts of Lognone, where we were to sleep. +This blessed hamlet is suspended on the brow of a bleak mountain, and +every gust that stirs shakes the whole village to its foundations. +At our approach two hags stalked forth with lanterns and invited us +with a grin, which I shall always remember, to a dish of mustard and +crow’s gizzards, a dish I was more than half afraid of tasting, +lest it should change me to some bird of darkness, condemned to mope +eternally on the black rafters of the cottage.</p> +<p>After repeated supplications we procured a few eggs, and some faggots +to make a fire. Its blaze gave me courage to hear the hollow blasts +that whistled in the crevices; and pitching my bed in a warm corner, +I soon fell asleep, and forgot all my cares and inquietudes.</p> +<p><i>September</i> 14<i>th</i>. - The sun had not been long above the +horizon, before we set forward upon a craggy pavement hewn out of the +rough bosom of the cliffs and precipices. Scarce a tree was visible, +and the few that presented themselves began already to shed their leaves. +The raw nipping air of this desert with difficulty spares a blade of +vegetation; and in the whole range of these extensive eminences I could +not discover a single corn-field or pasture. Inhabitants, you +may guess, there were none. I would defy even a Scotch highlander +to find means of subsistence in so rude a soil.</p> +<p>Towards midday, we had surmounted the dreariest part of our journey, +and began to perceive a milder landscape. The climate improved +as well as the prospect, and after a continual descent of several hours, +we saw groves and villages in the dips of the hills, and met a string +of mules and horses laden with fruit. I purchased some figs and +peaches from this little caravan, and spreading my repast upon a bank, +baked in the sunshine, and gathered large spikes of lavender in full +bloom.</p> +<p>Continuing our route, we bid adieu to the realms of poverty and barrenness, +and entered a cultivated vale sheltered by woody acclivities. +Among these we wound along, the peasants singing upon the hill, and +driving their cattle to springs by the road’s side; near one of +which we dined in a patriarchal manner, and afterwards pursued our course +through a grove of taper cypresses, waving with the cool gales of the +evening. The heights were suffused with a ruddy glow, proceeding +from the light pink clouds which floated on the horizon. No others +were to be seen. All nature seemed in a happy tranquil state; +the herds penned in their folds, and every rustic going to repose. +I shared the general calm for the first time this many a tedious hour; +and traversed the dales in peace, abandoned to flattering hopes and +gay illusions. The full moon shone propitiously upon me as I ascended +a hill, and discovered Florence at a distance, surrounded with gardens +and terraces, rising one above another. The serene moonlight on +the pale grey tints of the olive, gave an Elysian, visionary appearance +to the landscape. I never beheld so mild a sky, nor such soft +gleams: the mountains were veiled in azure mists, which concealed their +rugged summits; and the plains in vapours, that smoothed their irregularities, +and diffused a faint aërial hue, to which no description can render +justice. I could have contemplated such scenery for hours, and +was sorry when I found myself shut up from it by the gates of Florence. +We passed several lofty palaces of the true Tuscan order, with rustic +arcades and stout columns, whose solidity and magnificence were not +diminished by the shades of midnight. Whilst these grand masses +lay dark and solemn, the smooth flagstone, with which every street is +paved, received a chequered gleam, and the Arno, the brightest radiance. +Though tired with my jumble over the Apennines, I could not resist the +temptation of walking upon the banks of so celebrated a river, and crossing +its bridges, which still echoed with music and conversation. Having +gratified the first impulse of curiosity, I returned to Vaninis, and +slept as well as my impatience would allow, till it was time next morning +(September 15th), to visit the gallery, and worship the Venus de Medicis. +I felt, upon entering this world of taste and elegance, as if I could +have taken up my abode in it for ever; but confused with the multitude +of objects, I knew not where to turn myself, and ran childishly by the +ample ranks of sculptures, like a butterfly in a parterre, that skims +before it fixes, over ten thousand flowers.</p> +<p>Having taken my course down one side of the gallery, I turned the +angle and discovered another long perspective, equally stored with prodigies +of bronze and marble; paintings on the walls, on the ceilings, in short, +everywhere. A minute brought me, vast as it was, to the extremity +of this range; then, flying down a third, adorned in the same delightful +manner, I paused under the bust of Jupiter Olympius; and began to reflect +a little more maturely upon the company in which I found myself. +Opposite, appeared the majestic features of Minerva, breathing divinity; +and Cybele, the mother of the gods.</p> +<p>I bowed low to these awful powers, but seeing a black figure just +by, whose attitude seemed to announce the deity of sleep, I made immediately +up to it. You know my fondness for this drowsy personage, and +that it is not the first time I have quitted the most splendid society +for him. I found him, at present, of touchstone, with the countenance +of a towardly brat, sleeping ill through indigestion. The artist +had not conceived such high ideas of the god as live in my bosom, or +else he never would have represented him with so little grace or dignity.</p> +<p>Displeased at finding my favourite subject profaned, I perceived +the lively transports of enthusiasm began in some degree to be dissipated, +and I felt myself calm enough to follow the herd of guides and spectators +from chamber to chamber and cabinet to cabinet, without falling into +errors of rapture and inspiration. We were led slowly and moderately +through the large rooms, containing the portraits of painters, good, +bad, and indifferent, from Raffaelle to Liotard; then into a museum +of bronzes, which would afford both amusement and instruction for years.</p> +<p>To one who can never behold an ancient lamp or tripod without the +associations of those who sacrificed on the one and meditated by the +other, imagine what pleasures such a repository must have communicated.</p> +<p>When I had alarmed, not satisfied, my curiosity by rapidly running +over this multitude of candelabra, urns, and sacred utensils, we entered +a small luminous apartment, surrounded with cases richly decorated, +and filled with the most exquisite models of workmanship in bronze and +various metals, classed in exact order. Here are crowds of diminutive +deities and tutelary lars, to whom the superstition of former days attributed +those midnight murmurs which were believed to presage the misfortunes +of a family. Amongst these now neglected images are preserved +a vast number of talismans, cabalistic amulets, and other grotesque +relics of ancient credulity.</p> +<p>In the centre of the room, I remarked a table, beautifully formed +of polished gems, and, hard by it, the statue of a genius with his familiar +serpent, and all his attributes; the guardian of the treasured antiquities. +From this chamber we were conducted into another, which opens to that +part of the gallery where the busts of Adrian and Antinous are placed. +Two pilasters, delicately carved in trophies and clusters of ancient +armour, stand on each side of the entrance; within are several perfumed +cabinets of miniatures, and a single column of Oriental alabaster about +ten feet in height,</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“Lucido e terso, e bianco, più che latte.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I put my guide’s patience to the proof, by remaining much longer +than any one else ever did, in admiring the pillar, and rummaging the +drawers of the cabinets. At last, the musk with which they are +impregnated obliged me to desist, and I moved on to a suite of saloons, +with low arched roofs, glittering with arabesque, in azure and gold. +Several medallions appear amongst the wreaths of foliage, tolerably +well painted, with representations of splendid feasts and tournaments +for which Florence was once so famous.</p> +<p>A vast collection of small pictures, most of them Flemish, covers +the walls of these apartments. But nothing struck me more than +a Medusa’s head by that surprising genius Leonardo da Vinci. +It appears just severed from the body, and cast on the damp pavement +of a cavern: a deadly paleness covers the countenance, and the mouth +exhales a pestilential vapour: the snakes, which fill almost the whole +picture, beginning to untwist their folds; one or two seemed already +crept away, and crawling up the rock in company with toads and other +venomous reptiles.</p> +<p>The colouring of these disgustful objects is faithful to a great +degree; the effect of light, prodigious; the whole so masterly that +I could not help entering into this description; though I fear to little +purpose, as words at best convey but a weak idea of objects addressed +to the sight alone.</p> +<p>Here are a great many Polemburgs: one in particular, the strangest +I ever beheld. Instead of those soft scenes of woods and waterfalls +he is in general so fond of representing, he has chosen for his subject +Virgil ushering Dante into the regions of eternal punishment, amidst +the ruins of flaming edifices that glare across the infernal waters. +These mournful towers harbour innumerable shapes, all busy in preying +upon the damned. One capital devil, in the form of an enormous +lobster, seems very strenuously employed in mumbling a miserable mortal, +who sprawls, though in vain, to escape from his claws. This performance, +whimsical as it is, retains all that softness of tint and delicacy of +pencil for which Polemburg is so renowned.</p> +<p>Had not the subject so palpably contradicted the execution as to +become remarkable, I should have passed it over, like a thousand more, +and brought you immediately to the Tribune. I dare say our sensations +were similar on entering this apartment. Need I say I was enchanted +the moment I set my feet within it, and saw full before me the Venus +de Medicis? The warm ivory hue of the original marble is a beauty +no copy has ever imitated, and the softness of the limbs exceeded the +liveliest idea I had formed to myself of their perfection.</p> +<p>Their symmetry every artist is acquainted with; but do you recollect +a faint ruddy cast in the hair, which admirably relieves the whiteness +of the forehead? This circumstance, though perhaps accidental, +struck me as peculiarly charming; it increased the illusion, and helped +me to imagine I beheld a breathing divinity.</p> +<p>When I had taken my eyes reluctantly from this beautiful object, +I cast them upon a Morpheus of white marble, which lies slumbering at +the feet of the goddess in the form of a graceful child. A dormant +lion serves him for a pillow: two ample wings, carved with the utmost +delicacy, are gathered under him; two others, budding from his temples, +half concealed by a flow of lovely ringlets. His languid hands +scarce hold a bunch of poppies: near him creeps a lizard, just yielding +to his influence. Nothing can be more just than the expression +of sleep in the countenance of the little divinity. His lion too +seems perfectly lulled, and rests his muzzle upon his fore-paws as quiet +as a domestic mastiff. I contemplated the god with infinite satisfaction, +till I felt an agreeable sleepiness steal over my senses, and should +have liked very well to doze away a few hours by his side. My +ill-humour at seeing this deity so grossly sculptured in the gallery, +was dissipated by the gracefulness of his appearance in the Tribune. +I was now contented, for the artist, (to whom the Lord give a fair seat +in paradise!) had realized my ideas; and, if I may venture my opinion, +sculpture never arrived to higher perfection, or, at the same time, +kept more justly within its province. Sleeping figures with me +always produce the finest illusion. I easily persuade myself that +I behold the very personage, cast into the lethargic state which is +meant to be represented, and I can gaze whole hours upon them with complacency. +But when I see an archer in the very act of discharging his arrow, a +dancer with one foot in the air, or a gladiator extending his fist to +all eternity, I grow tired, and ask, When will they perform what they +are about? When will the bow twang? the foot come to the ground? +or the fist meet its adversary? Such wearisome attitudes I can +view with admiration, but never with pleasure. The wrestlers, +for example, in the same apartment, filled me with disgust: I cried +out, For heaven’s sake! give the throw, and have done. In +taking my turn round the enchanted circle, I discovered still, another +Morpheus; stretched carelessly on a mantle, with poppies in his hands; +but no wings grow from his temples, nor lion supports his head. +A moth just issuing from his chrysalis is the only being which seems +to have felt his soporific influence; whereas the other god I have mentioned +may vaunt the glory of subduing the most formidable of animals.</p> +<p>The morning was gone before I could snatch myself from the Tribune. +In my way home, I looked into the cathedral, an enormous fabric, inlaid +with the richest marbles, and covered with stars and chequered work, +like an old-fashioned cabinet. The architect seems to have turned +his building inside out; nothing in art being more ornamented than the +exterior, and few churches so simple within. The nave is vast +and solemn, the dome amazingly spacious, with the high altar in its +centre, inclosed by a circular arcade near two hundred feet in diameter. +There is something imposing in this decoration, as it suggests the idea +of a sanctuary, into which none but the holy ought to penetrate. +However profane I might feel myself, I took the liberty of entering, +and sat myself down in a niche. Not a ray of light reaches this +sacred inclosure, but through the medium of narrow windows, high in +the dome and richly painted. A sort of yellow tint predominates, +which gives additional solemnity to the altar, and paleness to the votary +before it. I was sensible of the effect, and obtained at least +the colour of sanctity.</p> +<p>Having remained some time in this pious hue, I returned home and +feasted upon grapes and ortolans with great edification; then walked +to one of the bridges across the Arno, and surveyed the hills at a distance, +purpled by the declining sun. Its mild beams tempted me to the +garden of Boboli, which lies behind the Palazzo Pitti, stretched out +on the side of a mountain. I ascended terrace after terrace, robed +by a thick underwood of hay and myrtle, above which rise several nodding +towers, and a long sweep of venerable wall, almost entirely concealed +by ivy. You would have been enraptured with the broad masses of +shade and dusky alleys that opened as I advanced, with white statues +of fauns and sylvans glimmering amongst them; some of which pour water +into sarcophagi of the purest marble, covered with antique relievos. +The capitals of columns and ancient friezes are scattered about as seats.</p> +<p>On these I reposed myself, and looked up to the cypress groves spiring +above the thickets; then, plunging into their retirements, I followed +a winding path, which led me by a series of steep ascents to a green +platform overlooking the whole extent of wood, with Florence deep beneath, +and the tops of the hills which encircle it, jagged with pines; here +and there a convent, or villa, whitening in the sun. This scene +extends as far as the eye can reach.</p> +<p>Still ascending I attained the brow of the mountain, and had nothing +but the fortress of Belvedere, and two or three open porticos above +me. On this elevated situation, I found several walks of trellis-work, +clothed with luxuriant vines, that produce to my certain knowledge the +most delicious clusters. A colossal statue of Ceres, her hands +extended in the act of scattering fertility over the prospect, crowns +the summit, where I lingered to mark the landscape fade, and the bright +skirts of the western sun die gradually away.</p> +<p>Then descending alley after alley, and bank after bank, I came to +the orangery in front of the palace, disposed in a grand amphitheatre, +with marble niches relieved by dark foliage, out of which spring tall +aërial cypresses. This spot brought the scenery of an antique +Roman garden full into my mind. I expected every instant to be +called to the table of Lucullus hard by, in one of the porticoes, and +to stretch myself on his purple triclinias; but waiting in vain for +a summons till the approach of night, I returned delighted with a ramble +that had led me so far into antiquity.</p> +<p><i>Friday</i>, <i>September</i> 16th. - My impatience to hear Pacchierotti +called me up with the sun. I blessed a day which was to give me +the greatest of musical pleasures, and travelled gaily towards Lucca, +along a fertile plain, bounded by rocky hills, and scattered over with +towns and villages. We passed Pistoia in haste, and about three +in the afternoon entered the Lucchese territory, by a clean, paved road, +which runs through some of the pleasantest copses imaginable, bordered +with a variety of heaths and broom in blossom. Sometimes it conducted +us down slopes, overgrown with shrubby chestnuts and arbor vitæ; +sometimes between groves of cypresses and pines laden with cones: a +red soil peeping forth from the vegetation adds to the richness of the +landscape, which swells all the way into gentle acclivities: and at +about seven or eight miles from the city spreads into mountains, green +to their very summits, and diversified with gardens and palaces. +A more pleasing scenery can with difficulty be imagined: I was quite +charmed with beholding it, as I knew very well that the opera would +keep me a long while chained down in its neighbourhood.</p> +<p>Happy for me that the environs of Lucca were so beautiful; since +I defy almost any city to contain more ugliness within its walls. +Narrow streets and dismal alleys; wide gutters and cracked pavements; +everybody in black, like mourners for the gloom of their habitations, +which, however, are large and lofty enough of conscience; but having +all grated windows, they convey none but dark and dungeon-like ideas. +My spirits fell many degrees upon entering this sable capital; and when +I found Friday was meagre day, in every sense of the word, with its +inhabitants, and no opera to be performed, I grew terribly out of humour, +and shut myself up in a chamber of the inn, which, to complete my misfortune, +was crowded with human lumber. Instead of a delightful symphony, +I heard nothing for some time but the clatter of plates and the swearing +of waiters.</p> +<p>Amongst the number of my tormentors was a whole Genoese family of +distinction; very fat and sleek, and terribly addicted to the violin. +Hearing of my fondness for music, they speedily got together a few scrapers, +and began such an academia as drove me to one end of the room, whilst +they possessed the other. The hopes and heir of the family - a +coarse chubby dolt of about eighteen - played out of all time, and during +the interval of repose he gave his elbow, burst out into a torrent of +commonplace, which completed, you may imagine, my felicity.</p> +<p>Pacchierotti, whom they all worshipped in their heavy way, sat silent +the while in a corner; the second soprano warbled, not absolutely ill, +at the harpsichord; whilst the old lady, young lady, and attendant females, +kept ogling him with great perseverance. Those who could not get +in, squinted through the crevices of the door. Abbés and +greyhounds were fidgeting continually without. In short, I was +so worried that, pleading headaches and lassitudes, I escaped about +ten o’clock, and shook myself when I got safe to my apartment, +like a spaniel just fresh from a dripping copse.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XIV</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>LUCCA, <i>September</i> 25<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>You ask me how I pass my time. Generally upon the hills, in +wild spots where the arbutus flourishes: from whence I may catch a glimpse +of the distant sea; my horse tied to a cypress, and myself cast upon +the grass, like Palmarin of Oliva, with a tablet and pencil in my hand, +a basket of grapes by my side, and a crooked stick to shake down the +chestnuts. I have bidden adieu, several days ago, to the dinners +and glories of the town, and only come thither in an evening, just time +enough for the grand march which precedes Pacchierotti in <i>Quinto +Fabio</i>. Sometimes he accompanies me in my excursions, to the +utter discontent of the Lucchese, who swear I shall ruin their opera, +by leading him such confounded rambles amongst the mountains, and exposing +him to the inclemency of winds and showers. One day they made +a vehement remonstrance, but in vain; for the next, away we trotted +over hill and dale, and stayed so late in the evening, that cold and +hoarseness were the consequence.</p> +<p>The whole republic was thrown into commotion, and some of its prime +ministers were deputed to harangue Pacchierotti upon the rides he had +committed. Billingsgate never produced such furious orators. +Had the safety of their mighty state depended upon this imprudent excursion, +they could not have vociferated with greater violence. You know +I am rather energetic, and, to say truth, I had very nearly got into +a scrape of importance, and drawn down the execrations of the Gonfalonier +and all his council upon my head, in defending him, and in openly declaring +our intention of taking, next morning, another ride over the rocks, +and absolutely losing ourselves in the clouds which veil their acclivities. +These threats were put into execution, and yesterday we made a tour +of about thirty miles upon the highlands, and visited a variety of castles +and palaces.</p> +<p>The Conte Nobili conducted us, a noble Lucchese, but born in Flanders +and educated at Paris. He possesses the greatest elegance of imagination, +and a degree of sensibility rarely met with upon our gross planet. +The way did not appear tedious in such company. The sun was tempered +by light clouds, and a soft autumnal haze rested upon the hills, covered +with shrubs and olives. The distant plains and forests appeared +tinted with deep blue, and I am now convinced the azure so prevalent +in Velvet Breughel’s landscapes is not exaggerated.</p> +<p>After riding for six or seven miles along the cultivated levels, +we began to ascend a rough slope, overgrown with chestnuts; here and +there some vines streaming in garlands displayed their clusters. +A great many loose fragments and stumps of ancient pomegranates perplexed +our route, which continued, turning and winding through this sort of +wilderness, till it opened on a sudden to the side of a lofty mountain, +covered with tufted groves, amongst which hangs the princely castle +of the Garzonis, on the very side of a precipice.</p> +<p>Alcina could not have chosen a more romantic situation. The +garden lies extended beneath, gay with flowers, and glittering with +compartments of spar, which, though in no great purity of taste, has +an enchanted effect for the first time. Two large marble basins, +with jet-d’eaux seventy feet in height, divide the parterres; +from the extremity of which rises a rude cliff, shaded with firs and +ilex, and cut into terraces.</p> +<p>Leaving our horses at the great gate of this magic inclosure, we +passed through the spray of the fountains, and mounting an almost endless +flight of steps, entered an alley of oranges, and gathered ripe fruit +from the trees. Whilst we were thus employed, the sun broke from +the clouds, and lighted up the vivid green of the vegetation; at the +same time spangling the waters, which pour copiously down a succession +of rocky terraces, and sprinkle the impending citron-trees with perpetual +dew. These streams issue from a chasm in the cliff, surrounded +by cypresses, which conceal by their thick branches some pavilions with +baths. Above arises a colossal statue of Fame, boldly carved, +and in the very act of starting from the precipices. A narrow +path leads up to the feet of the goddess, on which I reclined; whilst +a vast column of water arched over my head, and fell, without even wetting +me with its spray, into the depths below.</p> +<p>I could with difficulty prevail upon myself to abandon this cool +recess, which the fragrance of bay and orange, extracted by constant +showers, rendered uncommonly luxurious. At last I consented to +move on, through a dark wall of ilex, which, to the credit of Signor +Garzoni be it spoken, is suffered to grow as wild and as forest-like +as it pleases. This grove is suspended on the mountain side, whose +summit is clothed with a boundless wood of olives, and forms, by its +azure colour, a striking contrast with the deep verdure of its base.</p> +<p>After resting a few moments in the shade, we proceeded to a long +avenue (bordered by aloes in bloom, forming majestic pyramids of flowers +thirty feet high), which led us to the palace. This was soon run +over. Then, mounting our horses, we wound amongst sunny vales, +and inclosures with myrtle hedges, till we came to a rapid steep. +We felt the heat most powerfully in ascending it, and were glad to take +refuge under a bower of vines, which runs for miles along its summit, +almost without interruption. These arbours afforded us both shade +and refreshment; I fell upon the clusters which formed our ceiling, +like a native of the north, unused to such luxuriance: one of those +Goths which Gray so poetically describes, who</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“Scent the new fragrance of the breathing rose,<br />And quaff +the pendent vintage as it grows.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>I wish you had journeyed with us under this fruitful canopy, and +observed the partial sunshine through its transparent leaves, and the +glimpses of the blue sky it every now and then admitted. I say +only every now and then, for in most places a sort of verdant gloom +prevailed, exquisitely agreeable in so hot a day.</p> +<p>But such luxury did not last, you may suppose, for ever. We +were soon forced from our covert, and obliged to traverse a mountain +exposed to the sun, which had dispersed every cloud, and shone with +intolerable brightness. On the other side of this extensive eminence +lies an agreeable hillock, surrounded by others, woody and irregular. +Wide vineyards and fences of Indian corn lay between, across which the +Conte Nobili conducted us to his house, where we found prepared a very +comfortable dinner. We drank the growth of the spot, and defied +Constantia and the Cape to excel it.</p> +<p>Afterwards, retiring into a wood of the Marchese Mansi, with neat +pebble walks and trickling rivulets, we sipped coffee and loitered till +sunset. It was then time to return: the dews began to fall, and +the mists to rise from the valleys. The profound calm and silence +of evening threw us all three into our reveries. We went pacing +along heedlessly, just as our horses pleased, without hearing any sound +but their steps.</p> +<p>Between nine and ten we entered the gates of Lucca. Pacchierotti +coughed, and half its inhabitants wished us at the devil.</p> +<p>I think now I have detained you long enough with my excursions: you +must require a little repose; for my own part, I am heartily tired. +I intended to say some things about certain owls, amongst other grievances +I am pestered with in this republic; but shall cut them all short, and +wish you good-night; for the opera is already begun, and I would not +miss the first glorious recitative for the empire of Trebizond.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XV</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>LIVOURNO, <i>October</i> 2<i>nd.</i></p> +<p>No sooner were we beyond the gates, than we found ourselves in narrow +roads, shut in by vines and grassy banks of canes and osiers, rising +high above our carriage, and waving their leaves in the air. Through +the openings which sometimes intervene we discovered a variety of hillocks +clothed with shrubberies and verdure, ruined towers looking out of the +bushes, not one without a romantic tale attending it.</p> +<p>This sort of scenery lasted till, passing the baths, we beheld Pisa +rising from an extensive plain, the most open we had as yet seen in +Italy, crossed by an aqueduct. We were set down immediately before +the Duomo, which stands insulated in a verdant opening, and is by far +the most curious and highly finished edifice my eyes ever viewed. +Don’t ask of what shape or architecture; it is almost impossible +to tell, so great is the confusion of ornaments. The capitals +of the columns and carvings of the architraves, as well as the form +of the arches, are evidently of Grecian design, but Gothic proportions. +The dome gives the mass an Oriental appearance, which helped to bewilder +me; in short, I have dreamed of such buildings, but little thought they +existed. On one side you survey the famous tower, as perfectly +awry as I expected; on the other the baptistery, a circular edifice +distinct from the church and right opposite its principal entrance, +crowded with sculptures and topped by the strangest of cupolas.</p> +<p>Having indulged our curiosity with this singular prospect for some +moments, we entered the cathedral and admired the stately columns of +porphyry and the rarest marbles, supporting a roof which, like the rest +of the building, shines with gold. A pavement of the brightest +mosaic completes its magnificence: all around are sculptures by M. Ang. +Buonaroti, and paintings by the most distinguished artists. We +examined them all, and then walked down the nave and remarked the striking +effect of the baptistery, seen in perspective through the bronze portals, +which you know, I suppose, are covered with relievos of the finest workmanship. +These noble valves were thrown wide open, and we passed between to examine +the alabaster fount in the baptistery, constructed after the primitive +ritual, and exquisitely wrought. Many palm trees appear amongst +the carved work, which seems to indicate the former connections of the +Pisanese with Palestine.</p> +<p>Our next object was the Campo Santo, which forms one side of the +opening in which the cathedral is situated. The walls, and Gothic +tabernacle above the entrance, rising from a level turf, appear as fresh +as if built within the present century, and, preserving a neat straw +colour, have the cleanest effect imaginable. Our guide unlocking +the gates, we entered a spacious cloister, forming an oblong quadrangle, +enclosing the sacred earth of Jerusalem, conveyed hither about the period +of the crusades, in the days of Pisanese prosperity. The holy +mould produces a rampant crop of weeds, but none are permitted to spring +from the pavement, which is entirely composed of tombs with slabs and +monumental inscriptions smoothly laid. Ranges of slender pillars, +formed of the whitest marble and glistening in the sun, support the +arcades, which are carved with innumerable stars and roses, partly Gothic +and partly Saracenial. Strange paintings of hell and the devil, +mostly taken from Dante’s rhapsodies, cover the walls of these +fantastic galleries, attributed to the venerable Giotto and Bufalmacco, +whom Boccace mentions in his “Decamerone.”</p> +<p>Beneath, along the base of the columns, rows of pagan sarcophagi +are placed, to my no small surprise, as I could not have supposed the +Pisanese sufficiently tolerant to admit profane sculptures within such +consecrated precincts. However, there they are, as well as fifty +other contradictory ornaments.</p> +<p>I was quite seized by the strangeness of the place, and paced fifty +times round and round the cloisters, discovering at every time some +odd novelty. When tired, I seated myself on a fair slab of <i>giallo +antico</i>, that looked a little cleaner than its neighbours (which +I only mention to identify the precise point of view), and looking through +the filigreed covering of the arches, observed the domes of the cathedral, +cupola of the baptistery, and roof of the leaning tower rising above +the leads, and forming the strangest assemblage of pinnacles perhaps +in Europe. The place is neither sad nor solemn; the arches are +airy, the pillars light, and there is so much caprice, such an exotic +look in the whole scene, that without any violent effort of fancy one +might imagine one’s self in fairyland. Every object is new, +every ornament original; the mixture of antique sarcophagi with Gothic +sepulchres, completes the vagaries of the prospect, to which, one day +or other, I think of returning, to act a visionary part, hear visionary +music, and commune with sprites, for I shall never find in the whole +universe besides so whimsical a theatre. It was between ten and +eleven when we entered the Campo Santo, and one o’clock struck +before I could be persuaded to leave it; and ’twas the sun which +then drove me away; whose heat was so powerful that all the inhabitants +of Pisa showed their wisdom by keeping within doors. Not an animal +appeared in the streets, except five camels laden with water, stalking +along a range of garden walls and pompous mansions, with an awning before +every door. We were obliged to follow their steps, at least a +quarter of a mile, before we reached our inn. Ice was the first +thing I sought after, and when I had swallowed an unreasonable portion, +I began not to think quite so much of the deserts of Africa, as the +heat and the camels had induced me a moment ago.</p> +<p>Early in the afternoon, we proceeded to Livourno through a wild tract +of forest, somewhat in the style of our English parks. The trees +in some places formed such shady arbours, that we could not resist the +desire of walking beneath them, and were well rewarded; for after struggling +through a rough thicket, we entered a lawn hemmed in by oaks and chestnuts, +which extends several leagues along the coast and conceals the prospect +of the ocean; but we heard its murmurs.</p> +<p>Nothing could be smoother or more verdant than the herbage, which +was sprinkled with daisies and purple crocuses, as in the month of May. +I felt all the genial sensations of Spring steal into my bosom, and +was greatly delighted upon discovering vast bushes of myrtle in bloom. +The softness of the air, the sound of the distant surges, the evening +gleams, and repose of the landscape, quieted the tumult of my spirits, +and I experienced the calm of my infant hours. I lay down in the +open turf-walks between the shrubberies, listlessly surveyed the cattle +browsing at a distance, and the blue hills that rose above the foliage, +and bounded the view. During a few moments I had forgotten every +care; but when I began to inquire into my happiness, I found it vanish. +I felt myself without those I love most, in situations they would have +warmly admired, and without them these pleasant meads and woodlands +were of little avail.</p> +<p>We had not left this woody region far behind, when the Fanalè +began to lift itself above the horizon - the Fanalè you have +so often mentioned; the sky and ocean glowing with amber light, and +the ships out at sea appearing in a golden haze, of which we have no +conception in our northern climates. Such a prospect, together +with the fresh gales from the Mediterranean, charmed me; I hurried immediately +to the port and sat on a reef of rocks, listening to the waves that +broke amongst them.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XVI</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p><i>October</i> 3<i>rd</i>. - I went, as you would have done, to walk +on the mole as soon as the sun began to shine upon it. Its construction +you are no stranger to; therefore I think I may spare myself the trouble +of saying anything about it, except that the port which it embraces +is no longer crowded. Instead of ten ranks of vessels there are +only three, and those consist chiefly of Corsican galleys, that look +as poor and tattered as their masters. Not much attention did +I bestow upon such objects, but, taking my seat at the extremity of +the quay, surveyed the smooth plains of ocean, the coast scattered over +with watch-towers, and the rocky isle of Gorgona, emerging from the +morning mists, which still lingered upon the horizon.</p> +<p>Whilst I was musing upon the scene, and calling up all that train +of ideas before my imagination, which possessed your own upon beholding +it, an ancient figure, with a beard that would have suited a sea-god, +stepped out of a boat, and tottering up the steps of the quay, presented +himself before me with a basket in his hand. He stayed dripping +a few moments before he pronounced a syllable, and when he began his +discourse, I was in doubt whether I should not have moved off in a hurry, +there was something so wan and singular in his countenance. Except +this being, no other was visible for a quarter of a mile at least. +I knew not what strange adventure I might be upon the point of commencing, +or what message I was to expect from the submarine divinities. +However, after all my conjectures, the figure turned out to be no other +than an old fisherman, who, having picked up a few large branches of +red coral, offered them to sale. I eagerly made the purchase, +and thought myself a favourite of Neptune, since he allowed me to acquire +for next to nothing some of his most beautiful ornaments.</p> +<p>My bargain thus expeditiously finished, I ran along the quay with +my basket of coral, and, jumping into a boat, was rowed back to the +gate of the port. The carriage waited there; I filled it with +jasmine, shut myself up in the shade of the green blinds, and was driven +away at a rate that favoured my impatience. We bowled smoothly +over the lawns I attempted describing in my last letter, amongst myrtles +in flower, that would have done honour to the island of Juan Fernandes.</p> +<p>Arrived at Pisa, I scarcely allowed myself a moment to revisit the +Campo Santo, but, after taking my usual portion of ice and pomegranate-seeds, +hurried on to Lucca as fast as horses could carry me, threw the whole +idle town into a stare by my speedy return, and gave myself up to <i>Q. +Fabio.</i></p> +<p>Next day (October 4th) was passed in running over my old haunts upon +the hills, and bidding farewell to several venerable chestnuts, for +which I had contracted a sort of friendship by often experiencing their +protection. I could not help feeling some melancholy sensation +when I turned round the last time to bid them adieu. Who knows +but some dryad enclosed within them was conscious of my gratitude, and +noted it down on the bark of her tree? It was late before I finished +my excursion, and soon after I had walked as usual upon the ramparts +the opera began.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XVII</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>FLORENCE, <i>October</i> 5<i>th.</i></p> +<p>It was not without regret that I forced myself from Lucca. +We had all the same road to go over again, that brought us to this important +republic, but we broke down by way of variety. The wind was chill, +the atmosphere damp and clogged with unwholesome vapours, through which +we were forced to walk for a league, whilst our chaise lagged after +us.</p> +<p>Taking shelter in a miserable cottage, we remained shivering and +shaking till the carriage was in some sort of order, and then proceeded +so slowly that we did not arrive at Florence till late in the evening. +We found an apartment over the Arno prepared for our reception. +The river, swollen with rains, roared like a mountain torrent. +Throwing open my windows, I viewed its agitated course by the light +of the moon, half concealed in stormy clouds, which hung above the fortress +of the Belvedere, and cast a lowering gleam over the hills, which rise +above the town, and wave with cypress. I sat contemplating the +effect of the shadows on the bridge, on the heights of Boboli, and the +mountain covered with pale olive groves, amongst which a convent is +situated, till the moon sunk into the darkest quarter of the sky, and +a bell began to toll. Its sullen sound filled me with sadness. +I closed the casements, called for lights, ran to a harpsichord Vannini +had prepared for me, and played somewhat in the strain of Jomelli’s +<i>Miserere.</i></p> +<p><i>October</i> 6<i>th</i>. - Every cloud was dispersed when I arose; +the sunbeams glittered on the stream, and the purity and transparency +of the tether added new charms to the woody eminences around. +Such was the clearness of the air that even objects on the distant mountains +were distinguishable. I felt quite revived by the exhilarating +prospect, and walked in the splendour of sunshine to the porticos beneath +the famous gallery; then to an ancient castle, raised in the days of +the republic, which fronts the grand piazza: colossal statues and venerable +terms are placed before it. On one side a fountain clung round +with antique figures of bronze, by John of Bologna, so admirably wrought +as to hold me several minutes in astonishment; on the other, three lofty +Gothic arches, and under one of them the Perseus of Benvenuto Cellini, +raised on a pedestal, incomparably designed and executed; which I could +not behold uninterested, since its author has ever occupied a distinguished +place in my kalendar of genius. Having examined some groups of +sculptures, by Baccio Bandinelli and other mighty artists, I entered +the court of the castle, dark and deep, as if hewn out of a rock; surrounded +by a vaulted arcade, covered with arabesque ornaments, and supported +by pillars as uncouthly carved as those of Persepolis. In the +midst appears a marble fount with an image of bronze, that looks quite +strange and cabalistic. I leaned against it, to look up to the +summits of the walls, which rise to a vast height, from whence springs +a slender tower. Above, in the apartments of the castle, were +preserved numbers of curious cabinets, tables of inlaid gems, and a +thousand rarities, collected by the house of Medici, but exposed by +the present sovereign of Tuscany to public sale.</p> +<p>It was not without indignation that I learnt this new mark of contempt +which the Austrians bestow on the memory of those illustrious patrons +of the Arts; whom, being unwilling to imitate, they affect to despise +as a race of merchants, whose example it would be abasing their dignity +to follow.</p> +<p>I could have stayed much longer to enjoy the novelty and strangeness +of the place; but it was right to pay some compliments of form. +That duty over, I dined in peace and solitude, read over your letters, +and repaired, as evening drew on, to the thickets of Boboli.</p> +<p>What a serene sky! what mellowness in the tints of the mountains! +A purple haze concealed the bases, whilst their summits were invested +with saffron light, discovering every white cot and every copse that +clothed their declivities. The prospect widened as I ascended +the terraces of the garden.</p> +<p>After traversing many long alleys, brown with impending foliage, +I emerged into a green opening on the brow of the hill, and seated myself +under the statue of Ceres. From this high point I surveyed the +mosaic cupola of the Duomo, its quaint turret, and one still more grotesque +in its neighbourhood, built not improbably in the style of ancient Etruria. +Beyond this singular group of buildings a plain stretches itself far +and wide, most richly scattered over with villas, gardens, and groves +of pine and olive, quite to the feet of the mountains.</p> +<p>After I had marked the sun’s going down, I went through a plat +of vines hanging on the steeps, to a little eminence, round which the +wood grows wilder and more luxuriant, and the cypresses shoot up to +a surprising elevation. The pruners have spared this sylvan corner, +and suffered the bays to put forth their branches, and the ilex to dangle +over the walks, many of whose entrances are nearly overgrown. +I enjoyed the gloom of these shady arbours, in the midst of which rises +a lofty pavilion with galleries running round it, not unlike the idea +one forms of Turkish chiosks. Beneath lies a garden of vines and +rose-trees, which I visited, and found a spring under a rustic arch +of grotto-work, fringed round with ivy. Millions of fish inhabit +here, of that beautiful glittering species which comes from China. +This golden nation were leaping after insects, as I stood gazing upon +the deep, clear water, and listening to the drops that trickle from +the cove. Opposite to which, at the end of an alley of vines, +you discover an oval bason, and in the midst of it a statue of Ganymede, +sitting reclined upon the eagle, full of that graceful languor so peculiarly +Grecian. Whilst I was musing on the margin of the spring (for +I returned to it after casting a look upon the sculpture), the moon +rose above the tufted foliage of the terraces. Her silver brightness +was strongly contrasted by the deep green of the holm-oak and bay, amongst +which I descended by several flights of stairs, with neat marble balustrades +crowned by vases of aloes.</p> +<p>It was about seven o’clock, and everybody was jumbling to my +Lord T---’s, who lives in a fine house all over blue and silver, +with stuffed birds, alabaster cupids, and a thousand prettinesses more; +but, after all, neither he nor his abode are worth mentioning. +I found a deal of slopping and sipping of tea going forwards, and many +dawdlers assembled.</p> +<p>As I can say little good of the party, I had better shut the door, +and conduct you to the opera, which is really a striking spectacle. +However, it being addressed to the sight alone, I was soon tired, and +gave myself up to conversation. Bedini, first soprano, put my +patience to severe proof, during the few minutes I attended. You +never beheld such a porpoise. If these animals were to sing, I +should conjecture it would be in his style. You may suppose how +often I invoked Pacchierotti, and regretted the lofty melody of <i>Quinto +Fabio</i>. Everybody seemed as well contented as if there were +no such thing as good music in the world, except a Neapolitan duchess, +who delighted me by her vivacity. We took our fill of maledictions, +and went home equally pleased with each other for having mutually execrated +both singers and audience.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XVIII</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p><i>October</i> 22<i>nd</i>. - They say the air is worse this year +at Rome than ever, and that it would be madness to go thither during +its malign influence. This was very bad news indeed to one heartily +tired of Florence, at least of its society. Merciful powers! what +a set harbour within its walls! * * * * * You may imagine I do not take +vast or vehement delight in this company, though very ingenious, praiseworthy, +etc. The woods of the Cascini shelter me every morning; and there +grows an old crooked ilex at their entrance, twisting round a pine, +upon whose branches I sit for hours, - hear, without feeling, the showers +trickling above my head, and see the cattle browsing peacefully in their +pastures, which hazel copses, Italian pines, and groves of cypress enclose.</p> +<p>In the afternoon I never fail hiding myself in the thickets of Boboli, +and marking the golden glimmer of sunset between their leaves. +The other evening I varied my walks, and ascended one of those pleasant +hills <a name="citation214"></a><a href="#footnote214">{214}</a> which +rise in the vicinity of the city, and command a variegated scene of +spires, towns, villas, cots, and gardens. On the right, as you +stand upon the brow, appears Fesule with its turrets and white houses, +covering a rocky mount; to the left, the vast Val d’Arno lost +in immensity. A Franciscan convent stands on the summit of the +eminence, wrapped up in ancient cypresses, which hinder its holy inhabitants +from seeing too much of so gay a view. The paved ascent leading +up to their abode receives also a shade from the cypresses which border +it. Beneath which venerable avenue, crosses with inscriptions +are placed at stated distances, to mark the various moments of Christ’s +passion; as when fainting under His burden He halted to repose Himself, +or when He met His afflicted mother (“Giesu incontra la fua afflitta +madre”).</p> +<p>Above, at the end of the perspective, rises a chapel designed with +infinite taste and simple elegance by M. A. Buonarotti. Further +on, an ancient church, in the corrupt Greek style of the primitive Christians, +incrusted with white marble, porphyry, and verd antique. The interior +presents a crowded assemblage of ornaments, elaborate mosaic pavements, +and inlaid work without end. The high altar, placed in a semicircular +recess, which reminded me of the church at Torcello, glitters with barbaric +paintings on a gold ground, and receives the strongest glow of light +imaginable from five windows, filled up with transparent marble clouded +like tortoiseshell. A smooth polished staircase leads to this +sacred place: another brought me to a subterraneous chapel, supported +by confused groups of variegated pillars, just visible by the glimmer +of lamps. I thought of the Zancaroon at Cordova, and began reciting +the first verses of the Koran.</p> +<p>Passing on not unawed, I followed some flights of steps, which terminate +in the neat cloisters of the convent, in perfect preservation, but totally +deserted. Ranges of citron and aloes fill up the quadrangle, whose +walls are hung with superstitious pictures most singularly fancied. +The Jesuits were the last tenants of this retirement, and seem to have +had great reason for their choice. Its peace and stillness delighted +me.</p> +<p>Next day a very opposite scene engaged me, though much against my +will. Her R. H. the G. Duchess having produced a princess in the +night, everybody put on grand gala in the morning, and I was carried, +along with the glittering tide of courtiers, ministers, and ladies, +to see the christening. After hearing the Grand Duke talk politics +for some time, the doors of a temporary chapel were thrown open. +Trumpets flourished, processions marched, and the archbishop began his +business at an altar of massive gold, placed under a yellow silk pavilion, +with pyramids of lights before it. Wax tapers, though it was noon-day, +shone in every corner of the apartments. Two rows of pages, gorgeously +accoutred, and holding enormous torches, stood on each side his Royal +Highness, and made him the prettiest courtesies imaginable, to the sound +of an execrable band of music, though led by Nardini. The poor +old archbishop, who looked very piteous and saint-like, struck up the +Te Deum with a quavering voice, and the rest followed him full gallop.</p> +<p>That ceremony being despatched (for his R. H. was in a mighty fidget +to shrink back into his beloved obscurity), the crowd dispersed, and +I went, with a few others, to dine at my Lord Tilney’s.</p> +<p>Evening drawing on, I ran to throw myself into the woods of Boboli, +and remained till it was night in their profound recesses. Really +this garden is enough to bewilder an enthusiastic spirit; there is something +so solemn in its shades, its avenues, and spires of cypresses. +When I had mused for many a melancholy hour amongst them, I emerged +into the orangery before the palace, which overlooks the largest district +of the town, and beheld, as I slowly descended the road which leads +up to it, certain bright lights glancing across the cupola of the Duomo +and the points of the highest towers. At first I thought them +meteors, or those illusive fires which often dance before the eye of +my imagination; but soon I was convinced of their reality: for in a +few minutes the battlements of the old castle, which I remember mentioning +in a former letter, shone with lamps; the lantern of the cathedral was +lighted up on a sudden; whilst a stream of torches ran along its fantastic +turrets.</p> +<p>I enjoyed this prospect at a distance: when near, its pleasure was +greatly diminished, for half the fish in the town were frying to rejoice +the hearts of H. R. Highness’s loyal subjects, and bonfires blazing +in every street and alley. Hubbubs and stinks of every denomination +drove me quickly to the theatre; but that was all glitter and glare. +No taste, no arrangement, paltry looking-glasses, and rat’s-tail +candles. I had half a mind to return to Boboli.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XIX</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p><i>October</i> 23<i>rd</i>. - Do you recollect our evening rambles +last year upon the hill of pines? and the dark valley where we used +to muse in the twilight? I remember we often fancied the scene +like Valombrosa; and vowed, if ever an occasion offered, to visit that +deep retirement. I had put off the execution of this pilgrimage +from day to day till the warm weather was gone; and the Florentines +declared I should be frozen if I attempted it. Everybody stared +last night at the opera when I told them I was going to bury myself +in fallen leaves, and hear no music but their rustlings.</p> +<p>Mr. --- was just as eager as myself to escape the chit-chat and nothingness +of Florence; so we finally determined upon our expedition, and mounting +our horses, set out this morning, happily without any company but the +spirit which led us along. We had need of inspiration, since nothing +else, I think, would have tempted us over such dreary, uninteresting +hillocks as rise from the banks of the Arno. The hoary olive is +their principal vegetation; so that Nature, in this part of the country, +seems in a withering decrepit state, and may not unaptly be compared +to “an old woman clothed in grey.” However, we did +not suffer the prospect to damp our enthusiasm, which was the better +preserved for Valombrosa.</p> +<p>About half way, our palfreys thought proper to look out for some +oats, and I to creep into a sort of granary in the midst of a barren +waste, scattered over with white rocks, that reflected more heat than +I cared for, although I had been told snow and ice were to be my portion. +Seating myself on the floor between heaps of corn, I reached down a +few purple clusters of Muscadine grapes, which hung to dry in the ceiling, +and amused myself very pleasantly with them till the horses had finished +their meal and it was lawful to set forwards. We met with nothing +but rocky steeps shattered into fragments, and such roads as half inclined +us to repent our undertaking; but cold was not yet amongst the number +of our evils.</p> +<p>At last, after ascending a tedious while, we began to feel the wind +blow sharp from the peaks of the mountains, and to hear the murmur of +the forests of pine which shade their acclivities. A paved path +leads across them, quite darkened by boughs, which, meeting over our +heads, cast a gloom and a chill below, that would have stopped the proceedings +of reasonable mortals, and sent them to bask in the plain; but, being +not so easily discomfited, we threw ourselves boldly into the forest. +It presented one of those confusions of tall straight stems I am so +fond of, and exhaled a fresh aromatic odour that revived my spirits.</p> +<p>The cold to be sure was piercing; but setting that at defiance, we +galloped on, and issued shortly into a vast amphitheatre of lawns and +meadows, surrounded by thick woods beautifully green. Flocks of +sheep were dispersed on the slopes, whose smoothness and verdure equal +our English pastures. Steep cliffs and mountains, clothed with +beech to their very summits, guard this retired valley. The herbage, +moistened by streams which fall from the eminences, has never been known +to fade; and, whilst the chief part of Tuscany is parched by the heats +of summer, these upland meadows retain the freshness of spring. +I regretted not having visited them sooner, as autumn had already made +great havoc amongst the foliage. Showers of leaves blew full in +our faces as we rode towards the convent, placed at an extremity of +the vale, and sheltered by remote firs and chestnuts towering one above +another.</p> +<p>Alighting before the entrance, two fathers came out and received +us into the peace of their retirement. We found a blazing fire, +and tables spread very comfortably before it, round which five or six +overgrown friars were lounging, who seemed, by the sleekness and rosy +hue of their countenances, not totally to have despised this mortal +existence.</p> +<p>My letters of recommendation soon brought the heads of the order +about me, fair round figures, such as a Chinese would have placed in +his pagoda. I could willingly have dispensed with their attention; +yet to avoid this was scarcely within the circle of possibility. +All dinner we endured the silliest questions imaginable; but that despatched, +away flew your humble servant to the fields and forests. The fathers +made a shift to waddle after, as fast and as complaisantly as they were +able, but were soon distanced.</p> +<p>Now, I found myself at liberty, and ran up a narrow path overhung +by rock, with bushy chestnuts starting from the crevices. This +led me into wild glens of beech trees, mostly decayed and covered with +moss: several were fallen. It was amongst these the holy hermit +Gualbertus had his cell. I rested a moment upon one of their huge +branches, listening to the roar of a waterfall which the wood concealed; +then springing up, I clambered over crags and fragments, guided by the +sound, and presently discovered a full stream, precipitating itself +down a cliff of pine, amongst which I remained several minutes, watching +the fallen floods; till, tired with their endless succession, I plunged +into the thickest of the grove. A beech received me, like a second +Gualbertus, in its hollow trunk. The dry leaves chased each other +down the steeps on the edge of the torrents with hollow rustlings, whilst +the solemn wave of the forests above exactly answered the idea I had +formed of Valombrosa,</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p> “ . . . where th’ Etrurian shades<br />High +overarch’t imbowr.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>The scene was beginning to take effect, and the genius of Milton +to move across his favourite valley, when the fathers arrived puffing +and blowing, by an easier ascent than I knew of. Pardon me, if +I cursed their intrusion, and wished them as still as Gualbertus.</p> +<p>“You have missed the way,” cried the youngest; “the +hermitage, with the fine picture by Andrea del Sarto, which all the +English admire, is on the opposite side of the wood: there don’t +you see it on the point of the cliff?”</p> +<p>“Yes, yes,” said I a little peevishly; “I wonder +the devil has not pushed it down long ago; it seems to invite his kick.”</p> +<p>“Satan,” answered the old Pagod very dryly, “is +full of malice; but whoever drinks of a spring which the Lord causeth +to flow near the hermitage is freed from his illusions.”</p> +<p>“Are they so?” replied I with a sanctified accent; “then +prithee conduct me thither, for I have great need of such salutary waters, +being troubled with strange fancies and imaginations, such as the evil +one himself ought to be ashamed of inspiring.”</p> +<p>The youngest father shook his head, as much as to say, “This +is nothing more than a heretic’s whim.”</p> +<p>The senior - muddled, I conjecture - set forwards with greater piety, +and began some legendary tales of the kind which my soul loveth: rare +stories of caves and dens of the earth, inhabited by ancient men familiar +with spirits, and not the least discomposed by a party of angels coming +to dinner, or playing a game at miracles to pass away the evening. +He pointed to a chasm in the cliff, round which we were winding by a +spiral path, where Gualbertus used to sleep, and, turning himself towards +the west, see a long succession of saints and martyrs sweeping athwart +the sky, and gilding the clouds with far brighter splendours than the +setting sun. Here he rested till his last hour, when the bells +of the convent beneath (which till that moment would have made dogs +howl, had there been any within its precincts) struck out such harmonious +jingling that all the country around was ravished, and began lifting +up their eyes with singular devotion, when, behold! cherubim appeared, +light dawned, and birds chirped, although it was midnight. Alas! +alas! what would I not give to witness such a spectacle, and read my +prayer-book by the effulgence of opening heaven!</p> +<p>However, willing to see something at least, I crept into the consecrated +cleft, and extended myself on its rugged surface. A very penitential +couch! but commanding glorious prospects of the world below, which lay +this evening in deep blue shade; the sun looking red and angry through +misty vapours, which prevented our discovering the Tuscan sea.</p> +<p>Finding the rock as damp as might be expected, I soon shifted my +quarters, and followed the youngest father up to the Romitorio, a snug +little hermitage, with a neat chapel, and altar-piece by Andrea del +Sarto, which I should have more minutely examined in any other place, +but where the wild scenery of hanging woods and meadows, steep hills +and nodding precipices, possessed my whole attention. I just stayed +to taste the holy fountain; and then, escaping from my conductors, ran +eagerly down the path, leaping over the springs that crossed it, and +entered a lawn of the smoothest turf, grazed by sheep, and swelling +into gentle acclivities, skirted by groves of fir, whose solemn verdure +formed a contrast with its tender green. Beyond this pleasant +opening rises a second, hemmed in with copses; and still higher, a third, +whence a forest of young pines spires up into a lofty theatre terminated +by peaks, universally concealed under a thick mantle of beech, tinged +with ruddy brown. Pausing in the midst of the lawns, and looking +upward to the sweeps of wood which surrounded me, I addressed my orisons +to the genius of the place, and prayed that I might once more return +into its bosom, and be permitted to bring you along with me, for surely +such meads, such groves, were formed for our enjoyment!</p> +<p>This little rite performed, I walked on quite to the extremity of +the pastures, traversed a thicket, and found myself on the edge of precipices, +beneath whose base the whole Val d’Arno lies expanded. I +listened to distant murmurings in the plain, saw smoke rise from the +cottages, and viewed a vast tract of barren country, which evening rendered +still more desolate, bounded by the high mountain of Radicofani. +Then, turning round, I beheld the whole extent of rock and forest, the +groves of beech, and wilds above the convent, glowing with fiery red, +for the sun, making a last effort to pierce the vapours, produced this +effect; which was the more striking, as the sky was dark, and the rest +of the prospect of a melancholy blue.</p> +<p>Returning slowly homeward, I marked the warm glow deserting the eminences, +and heard the bell toll sullenly to vespers. The young boys of +the seminary were moving in a body to their dark inclosure, all dressed +in black. Many of them looked pale and wan. I wished to +ask them whether the solitude of Valombrosa suited their age and vivacity; +but a tall spectre of a priest drove them along like a herd, and presently, +the gates opening, I saw them no more. A sadness I could scarcely +account for came over me. I shivered at the bare idea of being +cooped up in such a place, and seeing no other living objects than scarecrow +priests and friars; to hear every day the same dull service and droning +organ; view the same cloisters; be led the same walks; watched, cribbed, +confined, and filled with superstitious fears.</p> +<p>The night was growing chill, the winds boisterous, and in the intervals +of the gusts I had the addition of a lamentable screech-owl to raise +my spirits. Upon the whole, I was not at all concerned to meet +the fathers, who came out to show me to my room, and entertain me with +various gossipings, both sacred and profane, till supper appeared.</p> +<p>Next morning, the Padre Decano gave us chocolate in his apartment; +and afterwards led us round the convent, insisting most unmercifully +upon our viewing every cell and every dormitory. However, I was +determined to make a full stop at the organ, which is perhaps the most +harmonious I ever played upon; but placed in a dark, dingy recess, feebly +lighted by lamps, not calculated to inspire triumphant voluntaries. +The monks, who had all crowded around me when I first began, in expectation +of brisk jigs and lively overtures, soon took themselves away upon hearing +a strain ten times more sorrowful than that to which they were accustomed. +I did not lament their departure, but played dismally on till our horses +came round to the gate. We mounted, spurred back through the grove +of pines which protect Valombrosa from intrusion, descended the steeps, +and, gaining the plains, galloped in three hours to Florence.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XX</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>SIENNA, <i>October</i> 26<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>At last fears were overcome, the epidemical fever at Rome allowed +to be no longer dangerous, and myself permitted to quit Florence. +The weather was neither gay nor dismal; the country neither fine nor +ugly; and your friend full as indifferent as the scenes he looked at. +Towards afternoon, a thunderstorm gave character to the landscape, and +we entered a narrow vale enclosed by rocks, with streams running at +their base. Poplars with faded yellow leaves sprung from the margins +of the rivulets, which seemed to lose themselves in the ruins of a castle, +built in the Gothic times. Our road led through its court and +passed the ancient keep, still darkened by its turrets; a few mud cottages +are scattered about the opening where formerly the chieftain exercised +his vassals, and trained them to war. The dungeon, once filled +with miserable victims, serves only at present to confine a few goats, +which were milking before its entrance. As we were driven along +under a tottering gateway, and then through a plain and up a hill, the +breeze whispering amongst the fern which covers it, I felt the sober +autumnal cast of the evening bring back the happy hours I passed last +year at this very time, calm and sequestered. Full of these recollections, +my eyes closed of their own accord, and were not opened for many hours; +in short, till we entered Sienna.</p> +<p><i>October</i> 27<i>th</i>. - Here my duty of course was to see the +cathedral, and I got up much earlier than I wished, in order to perform +it. I wonder our holy ancestors did not choose a mountain at once, +scrape it into shrines, and chisel it into scripture stories. +It would have cost them almost as little trouble as the building in +question, which may certainly be esteemed a masterpiece of ridiculous +taste and elaborate absurdity. The front, incrusted with alabaster, +is worked into a million of fretted arches and puzzling ornaments. +There are statues without number and relievos without end.</p> +<p>The church within is all of black and white marble alternately; the +roof blue and gold, with a profusion of silken banners hanging from +it; and a cornice running above the principal arcade, composed entirely +of bustos representing the whole series of sovereign pontiffs, from +the first Bishop of Rome to Adrian the Fourth. Pope Joan figured +amongst them, between Leo the Fourth and Benedict the Third, till the +year 1600, when she was turned out, at the instance of Clement the Eighth, +to make room for Zacharias the First.</p> +<p>I hardly knew which was the nave, or which the cross aisle, of this +singular edifice, so perfect is the confusion of its parts. The +pavement demands attention, being inlaid so curiously as to represent +variety of histories taken from Holy Writ, and designed in the true +style of that hobgoblin tapestry which used to bestare the halls of +our ancestors. Near the high altar stands the strangest of pulpits, +supported by polished pillars of granite, rising from lions’ backs, +which serve as pedestals. In every corner of the place some chapel +or other offends or astonishes you. That, however, of the Chigi +family, it must be allowed, has infinite merit with respect to design +and execution; but it is so lost in general disorder as to want the +best part of its effect.</p> +<p>From the church one enters a vaulted chamber, erected by the Picolominis, +filled with valuable missals most exquisitely illuminated. The +paintings in fresco on the walls are rather barbarous, though executed +after the designs of the mighty Raffaelle; but then, we must remember, +he had but just escaped from Pietro Perugino.</p> +<p>Not staying long in the Duomo, we left Sienna in good time; and, +after being shaken and tumbled in the worst roads that were ever pretended +to be made use of, found ourselves beneath the rough mountains round +Radicofani, about seven o’clock on a cold and dismal evening. +Up we toiled a steep craggy ascent, and reached at length the inn upon +its summit. My heart sunk when I entered a vast range of apartments, +with high black rafted roofs, once intended for a hunting palace of +the Grand Dukes, but now desolate and forlorn. The wind having +risen, every door began to shake, and every board substituted for a +window to clatter, as if the severe power who dwells on the topmost +peak of Radicofani, according to its village mythologists, was about +to visit his abode. My only spell to keep him at a distance was +kindling an enormous fire, whose charitable gleams cheered my spirits, +and gave them a quicker flow. Yet, for some minutes, I never ceased +looking, now to the right, now to the left, up at the dark beams, and +down the long passages, where the pavement, broken up in several places, +and earth newly strewn about, seemed to indicate that something horrid +was concealed below.</p> +<p>A grim fraternity of cats kept whisking backwards and forwards in +these dreary avenues, which I am apt to imagine is the very identical +scene of a sabbath of witches at certain periods. Not venturing +to explore them, I fastened my door, pitched my bed opposite the hearth, +which glowed with embers, and crept under the coverlids, hardly venturing +to go to sleep, lest I should be suddenly roused from it by the sudden +glare of torches, and be more initiated than I wished into the mysteries +of the place.</p> +<p>Scarce was I settled, before two or three of the brotherhood just +mentioned stalked in at a little opening under the door. I insisted +upon their moving off faster than they had entered, suspecting that +they would soon turn wizards, and was surprised, when midnight came, +to hear nothing more than their mewings, doleful enough, and echoed +by the hollow walls and arches.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XXI</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>RADICOFANI, <i>October</i> 28<i>th.</i></p> +<p>I begin to despair of magical adventures, since none happened at +Radicofani, which Nature seems wholly to have abandoned. Not a +tree, not an acre of soil, has she bestowed upon its inhabitants, who +would have more excuse for practising the gloomy art than the rest of +mankind. I was very glad to leave their black hills and stony +wilderness behind, and, entering the Papal territory, to see some shrubs +and corn-fields at a distance, near Aquapadente, which is situated on +a ledge of cliffs, mantled with chestnut copses and tufted ilex. +The country grew varied and picturesque. St. Lorenzo, the next +post, built upon a hill, overlooks the lake of Bolsena, whose woody +shores conceal many ruined buildings. We passed some of them in +a retired vale, with arches from rock to rock, and grottos beneath half +lost in thickets, from which rise craggy pinnacles crowned by mouldering +towers; just such scenery as Polemburg and Peter de Laer introduce in +their paintings.</p> +<p>Beyond these truly Italian prospects, which a mellow evening tint +rendered still more interesting, a forest of oaks presents itself upon +the brows of hills, which extends almost the whole way to Monte Fiascone. +It was late before we ascended it. The whole country seems full +of inhabited caverns, that began as night drew on to shine with fires. +We saw many dark shapes glancing before them, and perhaps a subterraneous +people like the Cimmerians lurk in their recesses. As we drew +near Viterbo, the lights in the fields grew less and less frequent; +and when we entered the town, all was total darkness.</p> +<p>To-morrow I hope to pay my vows before the high altar of St. Peter, +and tread the Vatican. Why are you not here to usher me into the +imperial city: to watch my first glance of the Coliseo: and lead me +up the stairs of the Capitol? I shall rise before the sun, that +I may see him set from Monte Cavallo.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XXII</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>ROME, <i>October</i> 29<i>th.</i></p> +<p>We set out in the dark. Morning dawned over the Lago di Vico; +its waters of a deep ultramarine blue, and its surrounding forests catching +the rays of the rising sun. It was in vain I looked for the cupola +of St. Peter’s upon descending the mountains beyond Viterbo. +Nothing but a sea of vapours was visible.</p> +<p>At length they rolled away, and the spacious plains began to show +themselves, in which the most warlike of nations reared their seat of +empire. On the left, afar off, rises the rugged chain of Apennines, +and on the other side, a shining expanse of ocean terminates the view. +It was upon this vast surface so many illustrious actions were performed, +and I know not where a mighty people could have chosen a grander theatre. +Here was space for the march of armies, and verge enough for encampments. +Levels for martial games, and room for that variety of roads and causeways +that led from the capital to Ostia. How many triumphant legions +have trodden these pavements! how many captive kings! What throngs +of cars and chariots once glittered on their surface! savage animals +dragged from the interior of Africa; and the ambassadors of Indian princes, +followed by their exotic train, hastening to implore the favour of the +senate!</p> +<p>During many ages, this eminence commanded almost every day such illustrious +scenes; but all are vanished: the splendid tumult is passed away; silence +and desolation remain. Dreary flats thinly scattered over with +ilex, and barren hillocks crowned by solitary towers, were the only +objects we perceived for several miles. Now and then we passed +a few black ill-favoured sheep feeding by the way-side, near a ruined +sepulchre, just such animals as an ancient would have sacrificed to +the Manes. Sometimes we crossed a brook, whose ripplings were +the only sounds which broke the general stillness, and observed the +shepherds’ huts on its banks, propped up with broken pedestals +and marble friezes. I entered one of them, whose owner was abroad +tending his herds, and began writing upon the sand, and murmuring a +melancholy song. Perhaps the dead listened to me from their narrow +cells. The living I can answer for: they were far enough removed.</p> +<p>You will not be surprised at the dark tone of my musings in so sad +a scene, especially as the weather lowered; and you are well acquainted +how greatly I depend upon skies and sunshine. To-day I had no +blue firmament to revive my spirits; no genial gales, no aromatic plants +to irritate my nerves and give me at least a momentary animation. +Heath and furze were the sole vegetation which covers this endless wilderness. +Every slope is strewed with the relics of a happier period; trunks of +trees, shattered columns, cedar beams, helmets of bronze, skulls and +coins, are frequently dug up together.</p> +<p>I cannot boast of having made any discoveries, nor of sending you +any novel intelligence. You knew before how perfectly the environs +of Rome were desolate, and how completely the Papal government contrives +to make its subjects miserable. But who knows that they were not +just as wretched in those boasted times we are so fond of celebrating? +All is doubt and conjecture in this frail existence; and I might as +well attempt proving to whom belonged the mouldering bones which lay +dispersed around me, as venture to affirm that one age is more fortunate +than another. Very likely the poor cottager, under whose roof +I reposed, is happier than the luxurious Roman upon the remains of whose +palace, perhaps, his shed is raised: and yet that Roman flourished in +the purple days of the empire, when all was wealth and splendour, triumph +and exultation.</p> +<p>I could have spent the whole day by the rivulet, lost in dreams and +meditations; but recollecting my vow, I ran back to the carriage and +drove on. The road not having been mended, I believe, since the +days of the Cæsars, would not allow our motions to be very precipitate. +“When you gain the summit of yonder hill, you will discover Rome,” +said one of the postillions: up we dragged; no city appeared. +“From the next,” cried out a second; and so on from height +to height did they amuse my expectations. I thought Rome fled +before us, such was my impatience, till at last we perceived a cluster +of hills with green pastures on their summits, inclosed by thickets +and shaded by flourishing ilex. Here and there a white house, +built in the antique style, with open porticos, that received a faint +gleam of the evening sun, just emerged from the clouds and tinting the +meads below. Now domes and towers began to discover themselves +in the valley, and St. Peter’s to rise above the magnificent roofs +of the Vatican. Every step we advanced the scene extended, till, +winding suddenly round the hill, all Rome opened to our view.</p> +<p>A spring flowed opportunely into a marble cistern close by the way; +two cypresses and a pine waved over it. I leaped up, poured water +upon my hands, and then, lifting them up to the sylvan Genii of the +place, implored their protection. I wished to have run wild in +the fresh fields and copses above the Vatican, there to have remained +till fauns might creep out of their concealment, and satyrs begin to +touch their flutes in the twilight, for the place looks still so wondrous +classical, that I can never persuade myself either Constantine Attila +or the Popes themselves have chased them all away. I think I should +have found some out, who would have fed me with milk and chestnuts, +have sung me a Latian ditty, and mourned the woeful changes which have +taken place, since their sacred groves were felled, and Faunus ceased +to be oracular. Who can tell but they would have given me some +mystic skin to sleep on, that I might have looked into futurity?</p> +<p>Shall I ever forget the sensations I experienced upon slowly descending +the hills, and crossing the bridge over the Tiber; when I entered an +avenue between terraces and ornamented gates of villas, which leads +to the Porto del Popolo, and beheld the square, the domes, the obelisk, +the long perspective of streets and palaces opening beyond, all glowing +with the vivid red of sunset? You can imagine how I enjoyed my +beloved tint, my favourite hour, surrounded by such objects. You +can fancy me ascending Monte Cavallo, leaning against the pedestal which +supports Bucephalus; then, spite of time and distance, hurrying to St. +Peter’s in performance of my vow.</p> +<p>I met the Holy Father in all his pomp returning from vespers: trumpets +flourishing, and a legion of guards drawn out upon Ponte St. Angelo. +Casting a respectful glance upon the Moles Adriani, I moved on till +the full sweep of St. Peter’s colonnade opened upon me, and fixed +me, as if spell-bound, under the obelisk, lost in wonder. The +edifice appears to have been raised within the year, such is its freshness +and preservation. I could hardly take my eyes from off the beautiful +symmetry of its front, contrasted with the magnificent though irregular +courts of the Vatican towering over the colonnade, till, the sun sinking +behind the dome, I ran up the steps and entered the grand portal, which +was on the very point of being closed.</p> +<p>I knew not where I was, or to what scene transported. A sacred +twilight concealing the extremities of the structure, I could not distinguish +any particular ornament, but enjoyed the effect of the whole. +No damp air or fetid exhalation offended me. The perfume of incense +was not yet entirely dissipated. No human being stirred. +I heard a door close with the sound of thunder, and thought I distinguished +some faint whisperings, but am ignorant whence they came. Several +hundred lamps twinkled round the high altar, quite lost in the immensity +of the pile. No other light disturbed my reveries but the dying +glow still visible through the western windows. Imagine how I +felt upon finding myself alone in this vast temple at so late an hour, +and think whether I had not revelations.</p> +<p>It was almost eight o’clock before I issued forth, and, pausing +a few minutes under the porticos, listened to the rush of the fountains: +then traversing half the town, I believe, in my way to the Villa Medici, +under which I am lodged, fell into a profound repose, which my zeal +and exercise may be allowed, I think, to have merited.</p> +<p><i>October</i> 30<i>th</i>. - It was a clear morning; I mounted up +to the roof of the house, and sat under a set of open pavilions, surveying +the vast group of stately buildings below; then repaired immediately +after breakfast to St. Peter’s, which even exceeded the height +of my expectations. I could hardly quit it. I wish his Holiness +would allow me to erect a little tabernacle under the dome. I +should desire no other prospect during the winter; no other sky than +the vast arches glowing with golden ornaments, so lofty as to lose all +glitter or gaudiness. But I cannot say I should be perfectly contented, +unless I could obtain another pavilion for you. Thus established, +we would take our evening walks on the field of marble; for is not the +pavement vast enough to excuse the extravagance of the appellation? +Sometimes, instead of climbing a mountain, we should ascend the cupola, +and look down on our little encampment below. At night I should +wish for a constellation of lamps dispersed about in clusters, and so +contrived as to diffuse a mild and equal light for us to read or draw +by. Music should not be wanting: one day to breathe in the subterraneous +chapels, another to mount high into the dome.</p> +<p>The doors should be closed, and not a mortal admitted. No priests, +no cardinals: God forbid! We should have all the space to ourselves, +and to such creatures, too, as resemble us.</p> +<p>The windows I should shade with transparent curtains of yellow silk, +to admit the glow of perpetual summer. Lanterns, as many as you +please, of all forms and sizes; they would remind us of China, and, +depending from the roof of the palace, bring before us that of the Emperor +Ki, which was twice as large as St. Peter’s (if we may credit +the grand annals), and lighted alone by tapers, for his Imperial Majesty, +being tired of the sun, would absolutely have a new firmament of his +own creation, and an artificial day. Was it not a rare fantastic +idea? For my part, I should like of all things to immure myself +after his example, with those I love; forget the divisions of time, +have a moon at command, and a theatrical sun to rise and set at pleasure.</p> +<p>I was so absorbed in my imaginary palace, and exhausted with contriving +plans for its embellishment, as to have no spirits left for the Pantheon, +which I visited late in the evening, and entered with a reverence approaching +to superstition. The whiteness of the dome offending me, I slunk +into one of the recesses, closed my eyes, transported myself into antiquity; +then opened them again, tried to persuade myself the pagan gods were +in their niches, and the saints out of the question; was vexed at coming +to my senses, and finding them all there, St. Andrew with his cross, +and St. Agnes with her lamb, etc., etc. Then I paced disconsolately +into the portico, which shows the name of Agrippa on its pediment. +I leaned a minute against a Corinthian column; I lamented that no pontiff +arrived with victims and aruspices, of whom I might inquire, what, in +the name of birds and garbage, put me so terribly out of humour! for +you must know I was very near being disappointed, and began to think +Piranesi and Paolo Panini had been a great deal too colossal in their +view of this venerable structure. I left the column, walked to +the centre of the temple, and, folding my arms, stood as fixed as a +statue. Some architects have celebrated the effect of light from +the opening above, and pretended it to be distributed around so as to +give those who walk beneath the appearance of mystic substances beaming +with radiance. Mighty fine, if that were the case! I appeared, +to be sure, a luminous figure, and never stood I more in need of something +to distinguish me, being forlorn and dismal in the supreme degree.</p> +<p>But though it is not so immense as I had expected, yet a certain +venerable air, an awful gloom, breathed inspiration, though of the sorrowful +kind.</p> +<p>I had expected a heap of Venetian letters, but could not discover +one. I had received no intelligence from England this many a tedious +day; and for aught I can tell to the contrary, you may have been dead +these three weeks. I think I shall wander soon in the Catacombs, +which I am half inclined to imagine communicate with the lower world; +and perhaps I may find some letter there from you, lying upon a broken +sarcophagus, dated from the realms of Night, and giving an account of +your descent into her bosom. Yet, I pray continually, notwithstanding +my curiosity to learn what passes in the dark regions beyond the tomb, +that you will condescend to remain a few years longer on our planet; +for what would become of me, should I lose sight of you for ever? +Stay, therefore, as long as you can, and let us have the delight of +dozing a little more of this poor existence away together, and steeping +ourselves in pleasant dreams.</p> +<p><i>October</i> 31<i>st</i>. - I absolutely will have no antiquary +to go prating from fragment to fragment, and tell me, that were I to +stay five years at Rome, I should not see half it contained. The +thought alone, of so much to look at, is quite distracting, and makes +me resolve to view nothing at all in a scientific way; but straggle +and wander about, just as the spirit chooses. This evening, it +led me to the Coliseo, and excited a vehement desire in me to break +down and pulverize the whole circle of saints’ nests and chapels, +which disgrace the arena. You recollect, I dare say, the vile +effect of this holy trumpery, and would join with all your heart in +kicking it into the Tiber. A few lazy abbots were at their devotions +before them; such as would have made a lion’s mouth water; fatter, +I dare say, than any saint in the whole martyrology, and ten times more +tantalizing. I looked first, at the dens where wild beasts used +to be kept, to divert the magnanimous people of Rome with devastation +and murder; then, at the tame cattle before the altars. Heavens! +thought I to myself, how times are changed! Could ever Vespasian +have imagined his amphitheatre would have been thus inhabited? +I passed on, making these reflections, to a dark arcade, overgrown with +ilex. In the openings which time and violence have made, a distant +grove of cypresses discover themselves; springing from heaps of mouldering +ruins, relieved by a clear transparent sky, strewed with a few red clouds. +This was the sort of prospect I desired, and I sat down on a shattered +frieze to enjoy it. Many stories of ancient Rome thronged into +my mind as I mused; triumphal scenes, but tempered by sadness, and the +awful thoughts of their being all passed away. It would be in +vain to recapitulate the ideas which chased one another along. +Think where I sat, and you may easily conjecture the series. When +the procession was fleeted by (for I not only thought, but seemed to +see warriors moving amongst the cypresses, and consuls returning from +Parthian expeditions, loaded with strange spoils, and received with +the acclamations of millions upon entering the theatre), I arose, crossed +the arena, paced several times round and round, looked up to arcade +rising above arcade, and admiring the stately height and masses of the +structure, considered it in various points of view, and felt, as if +I never should be satisfied with gazing, hour after hour, and day after +day. Next, directing my steps to the arch of Constantine, I surveyed +the groups of ruins which surrounded me. The cool breeze of the +evening played in the beds of canes and osiers which flourished under +the walls of the Coliseo: a cloud of birds were upon the wing to regain +their haunts in its crevices; and, except the sound of their flight, +all was silent; for happily no carriages were rattling along. +I observed the palace and obelisk of St. John of Lateran, at a distance; +but it was too late to take a nearer survey; so, returning leisurely +home, I traversed the Campo Vaccino, and leaned a moment against one +of the columns which supported the temple of Jupiter Stator. Some +women were fetching water from the fountain hard by, whilst another +group had kindled a fire under the shrubs and twisted fig-trees, which +cover the Palatine Hill. Innumerable vaults and arches peep out +of the vegetation. It was upon these, in all probability, the +splendid palace of the Cæsars was raised. Confused fragments +of marble, and walls of lofty terraces, are the sole traces of its ancient +magnificence. A wretched rabble were roasting their chestnuts, +on the very spot, perhaps, where Domitian convened a senate, to harangue +upon the delicacies of his entertainment. The light of the flame +cast upon the figures around it, and the mixture of tottering wall with +foliage impending above their heads, formed a striking picture, which +I stayed contemplating from my pillar, till the fire went out, the assembly +dispersed, and none remained but a withered hag, raking the embers, +and muttering to herself. I thought also it was high time to retire, +lest the unwholesome mists, which were streaming from the opening before +the Coliseo, might make me repent my stay. Whether they had already +taken effect, or no, I will not absolutely determine; but something +or other had grievously disordered me. A few centuries ago I should +have taxed the old hag with my headache, and have attributed the uncommon +oppression I experienced to her baleful power. Hastening to my +hotel, I mounted into the open portico upon its summit, nearly upon +a level with the Villa Medici, and sat, several hours, with my arms +folded in one another, listening to the distant rumours of the town. +It had been a fine moment to have bestrode one of the winds which piped +around me, offering, no doubt, some compact from Lucifer.</p> +<p><i>November</i> 1<i>st</i>. - Though you find I am not yet snatched +away from the earth, according to my last night’s bodings, I was +far too restless and dispirited to deliver my recommendatory letters. +St. Carlos, a mighty day of gala at Naples, was an excellent excuse +for leaving Rome, and indulging my roving disposition. After spending +my morning at St. Peter’s, we set off about four o’clock, +and drove by the Coliseo and a Capuchin convent, whose monks were all +busied in preparing the skeletons of their order, to figure by torchlight +in the evening. St. John’s of Lateran astonished me. +I could not help walking several times round the obelisk, and admiring +the noble open space in which the palace is erected, and the extensive +scene of towers and aqueducts discovered from the platform in front.</p> +<p>We went out at the Porta Appia, and began to perceive the plains +which surround the city opening on every side. Long reaches of +walls and arches, but seldom interrupted, stretch across them. +Sometimes, indeed, a withered pine, lifting itself up to the mercy of +every blast that sweeps the champagne, breaks their uniformity. +Between the aqueducts to the left, nothing but wastes of fern, or tracts +of ploughed lands, dark and desolate, are visible, the corn not being +yet sprung up. On the right, several groups of ruined fanes and +sepulchres diversify the levels, with here and there a garden or woody +inclosure. Such objects are scattered over the landscape, that +towards the horizon bulges into gentle ascents, and, rising by degrees, +swells at length into a chain of mountains, which received the pale +gleams of the sun, setting in watery clouds.</p> +<p>By this uncertain light we discovered the white buildings of Albano, +sprinkled about the steeps. We had not many moments to contemplate +them, for it was night when we passed the Torre di mezza via, and began +breathing a close pestilential vapour. Half suffocated, and recollecting +a variety of terrifying tales about the malaria, we advanced, not without +fear, to Veletri, and hardly ventured to fall asleep when arrived there.</p> +<p><i>November</i> 2<i>nd</i>. - I arose at daybreak, and forgetting +fevers and mortalities, ran into a level meadow without the town, whilst +the horses were putting to the carriage. Why should I calumniate +the air? it seemed purer and more transparent than any I had before +inhaled. The mountains were covered with thin mists, and the morning +star sparkled above their summits. Birds were twittering amongst +some sheds and bushes, which border the sides of the road. A chestnut +hung over it, against which I leaned till the chaise came up. +Being perfectly alone, and not discovering any trace of the neighbouring +city, I fancied myself existing in the ancient days of Hesperia, and +hoped to meet Picus in his woods before the evening. But, instead +of those shrill clamours which used to echo through the thickets when +Pan joined with mortals in the chase, I heard the rumbling of our carriage, +and the curses of its postillions. Mounting a horse, I flew before +them, and seemed to catch inspiration from the breezes. Now I +turned my eyes to the ridge of precipices, in whose grots and caverns +Saturn and his people passed their life; then to the distant ocean. +Afar off rose the cliffs, so famous for Circe’s incantations, +and the whole line of coast, which was once covered with her forests.</p> +<p>Whilst I was advancing with full speed, the sunbeams began to shoot +athwart the mountains, the plains to light up by degrees, and their +shrubberies of myrtle to glisten with dewdrops. The sea brightened, +and the Circean rock soon glowed with purple. I never felt my +spirits so exhilarated, and they could not have flowed with more vivacity, +even had I tasted the cup which Helen gave Telemachus. You will +think me gone wild when I tell you I was, in a manner, drunk with the +dews of the morning, and so enraptured with the prospects which lay +before me as to address them in verse, and compose charms to dispel +the enchantments of Circe. All day were we approaching her rock; +towards evening Terracina appeared before us, in a bold romantic site; +house above house, and turret looking over turret, on the steeps of +a mountain, inclosed with mouldering walls, and crowned by the ruined +terraces of a delightful palace: one of those, perhaps, which the luxurious +Romans inhabited during the summer, when so free and lofty an exposition +(the sea below, with its gales and murmurs) must have been exquisitely +agreeable. Groves of orange and citron hang on the declivity, +rough with the Indian fig, whose bright red flowers, illuminated by +the sun, had a magic splendour. A palm-tree, growing on the highest +crag, adds not a little to its singular appearance. Being the +largest I had ever seen, and clustered with fruit, I climbed up the +rocks to take a close survey of it, and found a spring trickling near +its fount, bordered by fresh herbage. On this I stretched myself +on the very edge of the precipice, and looking down upon the beach, +and glassy plains of ocean, exclaimed with Martial:</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“O nemua! O fentes! aolidumque madentis<br />Littus, +et acquorcis splendidus Anxur aquis!”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Glancing my eyes athwart the sea, I fixed them on the Circean promontory, +which lies right opposite to Terracina, joined to the continent by a +very narrow strip of land, and appearing like an island. The roar +of the waves lashing the base of the precipices, might still be thought +the howl of savage monsters; but where are those woods which shaded +the dome of the goddess? Scarce a tree appears. A few thickets, +and but a few, are the sole remains of this once impenetrable vegetation; +yet even these I longed to visit, such was my predilection for the spot.</p> +<p>Who knows but Circe might have led me to some other palace, in a +more secret and retired vale, where she dwells remote from modern mariners, +and the present inhabitants of her environs; universally changed to +swine for these many ages? Their metamorphoses being so thoroughly +established as to leave no further pretence for her operations, I can +imagine her given up to solitude, and the consciousness of her potent +influence. Notwithstanding the risks of the adventure, I wished +to have attempted it, and seen whether she would have allowed me, as +night came on, to warm myself by her cedar fire, and hear her captivating +song. Perhaps, had the goddess been propitious, I might have culled +some herbs of wondrous efficacy. You recollect, I dare say, how +renowned the cliff was for them, and remember that Circe’s attendants, +deeply skilled, like their mistress, in pharmacy, were continually gathering +plants in the woods and wilds which enriched her abode. It was +thus the companions of Ulysses found them employed, when, entering her +palace, they unwarily drank the beverage she offered. Ovid has +told this story in a masterly manner, and formed a lively picture of +the magic dome, with the occupations of its inhabitants. We see +them judiciously arranging their plants, whilst Circe directs and points +out, with the nicest discernment, the simple and compound virtues of +every flower.</p> +<p>Descending the cliff, and pursuing our route to Mola along the shore, +by a grand road formed on the ruins of the Appian, we drove under an +enormous perpendicular rock, standing detached, like a watch-tower, +and cut into arsenals and magazines. Day closed just as we got +beyond it, and a new moon gleamed faintly on the waters. We saw +fires afar off in the bay, some twinkling on the coast, others upon +the waves, and heard the murmur of voices; for the night was still and +solemn, like that of Cajetas’s funeral. I looked anxiously +on a sea, where the heroes of the Odyssey and Æneid had sailed +in search of fate and empire, then closed my eyes, and dreamed of those +illustrious wanderers.</p> +<p>Nine struck when we arrived at Mola di Cajeta. The boats were +just coming in (whose lights we had seen out upon the main), and brought +such fish as Neptune, I dare say, would have grudged Æneas and +Ulysses.</p> +<p><i>November</i> 3<i>rd</i>. - The morning was soft, but hazy. +I walked in a grove of oranges, white with blossoms, and at. the same +time glowing with fruit, some of which I obtained leave to gather. +The spot sloped pleasantly towards the sea, and here I amused myself +with my agreeable occupation till the horses were ready, then set off +on the Appian, between hedges of myrtle and aloes, catching fresh gales +from the sea as I flew along, and breathing the perfume of an aromatic +vegetation, which covers the fields on the shore. We observed +variety of towns, with battlemented walls and ancient turrets, crowning +the pinnacles of rocky steeps, surrounded by wilds, and rude uncultivated +mountains. The Liris, now Garigliano, winds its peaceful course +through wide extensive meadows, scattered over with the remains of aqueducts, +and waters the base of the rocks I have just mentioned. Such a +prospect could not fail of bringing Virgil’s panegyric of Italy +full in my mind:</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“Tot congesta manu praeruptis oppida saxis<br />Fluminaque +antiquos suhterlabentia muros.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>As soon as we arrived in sight of Capua, the sky darkened, clouds +covered the horizon, and presently poured down such deluges of rain +as floated the whole country. The gloom was general; Vesuvius +disappeared just after we had the pleasure of discovering it; lightning +began to flash with dreadful rapidity, and people to run frightened +to their houses. At four o’clock darkness universally prevailed, +except when a livid glare of lightning presented momentary glimpses +of the bay and mountains. We lighted torches, and forded several +torrents almost at the hazard of our lives. The fields round Naples +were filled with herds, lowing most piteously, and yet not half so much +scared as their masters, who ran about cursing and swearing like Indians +during the eclipse of the moon. I knew Vesuvius had often put +their courage to proof, but little thought of an inundation occasioning +such commotions.</p> +<p>For three hours the storm increased in violence, and instead of entering +Naples on a calm evening, and viewing its delightful shores by moonlight +- instead of finding the squares and terraces thronged with people and +animated by music, we advanced with fear and terror through dark streets +totally deserted, every creature being shut up in their houses, and +we heard nothing but driving rain, rushing torrents, and the fall of +fragments beaten down by their violence. Our inn, like every other +habitation, was in great disorder, and we waited a long while before +we could settle in our apartments with any comfort. All night +the waves roared round the rocky foundations of a fortress beneath my +windows, and the lightning played clear in my eyes. I could not +sleep, and was full as disturbed as the elements.</p> +<p><i>November</i> 4<i>th</i>. - Peace was restored to nature in the +morning, but every mouth was full of the dreadful accidents which had +happened in the night. The sky was cloudless when I awoke, and +such was the transparence of the atmosphere that I could clearly discern +the rocks, and even some white buildings on the island of Caprea, though +at the distance of several miles. A large window fronts my bed, +and its casements being thrown open, gives me a vast prospect of ocean, +uninterrupted except by the peaks of Caprea and the Cape of Sorento. +I lay half an hour gazing on the smooth level waters, and listening +to the confused voices of the fishermen, passing and repassing in light +skiffs, which came and disappeared in an instant.</p> +<p>Running to the balcony the moment my eyes were fairly open (for till +then I saw objects, I know not how, as one does in dreams), I leaned +over its rails, and viewed Vesuvius rising distinct into the blue ether, +with all that world of gardens and casinos which are scattered about +its base; then looked down into the street, deep below, thronged with +people in holiday garments, and carriages, and soldiers in full parade. +The woody, variegated shore of Posilipo next drew my attention. +It was on those very rocks, under those tall pines, Sannazaro was wont +to sit by moonlight, or at peep of dawn, holding converse with the Nereids. +’Tis there he still sleeps; and I wished to have gone immediately +and strewed coral over his tomb, but I was obliged to check my impatience, +and hurry to the palace in form and gala.</p> +<p>A courtly mob had got thither upon the same errand, daubed over with +lace and most notably be-periwigged. Nothing but - bows and salutations +were going forward on the staircase, one of the largest I ever beheld, +and which a multitude of prelates and friars were ascending in all the +pomp of awkwardness. I jostled along to the presence chamber, +where his Majesty was dining alone in a circular inclosure of fine clothes +and smirking faces. The moment he had finished, twenty long necks +were poked forth, and it was a glorious struggle amongst some of the +most decorated who first should kiss his hand. Doing so was the +great business of the day, and everybody pressed forward to the best +of their abilities. His Majesty seemed to eye nothing but the +end of his nose, which is doubtless a capital object.</p> +<p>Though people have imagined him a weak monarch, I beg leave to differ +in opinion, since he has the boldness to prolong his childhood and be +happy, in spite of years and conviction. Give him a boar to stab, +and a pigeon to shoot at, a battledore or an angling rod, and he is +better contented than Solomon in all his glory, and will never discover, +like that sapient sovereign, that all is vanity and vexation of spirit.</p> +<p>His courtiers in general have rather a barbaric appearance, and differ +little in the character of their physiognomies from the most savage +nations. I should have taken them for Calmucks or Samoieds, had +it not been for their dresses and European finery.</p> +<p>You may suppose I was not sorry, after my presentation was over, +to return to Sir W.’s and hear Lady H. play, whose music breathes +the most pastoral Sicilian ideas, and transports me to green meads on +the sea-coast, where I wander with Theocritus.</p> +<p>The evening was passing swiftly away in this delightful excursion +of fancy, and I had almost forgotten there was a grand illumination +at the theatre of St. Carlo. After traversing a number of dark +streets, we suddenly entered this enormous edifice, whose six rows of +boxes blazed with tapers. I never beheld such lofty walls of light, +nor so pompous a decoration as covered the stage. Marchesi was +singing in the midst of all these splendours some of the poorest music +imaginable, with the clearest and most triumphant voice, perhaps, in +the universe.</p> +<p>It was some time before I could look to any purpose around me, or +discover what animals inhabited this glittering world: such was its +size and glare. At last I perceived vast numbers of ugly beings, +in gold and silver raiment, peeping out of their boxes. The court +being present, a tolerable silence was maintained, but the moment his +Majesty withdrew (which great event took place at the beginning of the +second act) every tongue broke loose, and nothing but buzz and hubbub +filled up the rest of the entertainment.</p> +<p>The last ballet, formed upon the old story of “Le Festin de +Pierre,” had wonderful effect, and terminated in the most striking +perspective of the infernal region. Picq danced incomparably, +and Signora Rossi led the Fandango, with a grace and activity that pleased +me beyond idea. Music was never more rapturous than that which +accompanies this dance. It quite enchanted me, and I longed to +have sprung upon the stage. The cadence is so strongly marked +by the castanets, that it is almost impossible to be out of time; and +the rapidity of steps and varied movements scarcely allows a moment +to think of being tired. I should imagine the eternal dance, with +which certain tribes of American savages think they are to be rewarded +in a future existence, might be formed somewhat on this model. +Indeed the Fandango arrived in Spain with the conquerors of the other +hemisphere, and is far too lively and extatic to be of European original.</p> +<p><i>November</i> 6<i>th</i> - Till to-day we have had nothing but +rains; the sea covered with mists, and Caprea invisible. Would +you believe it? I have not yet been able to mount to St. Elmo +and the Capo di Monte, in order to take a general view of the town.</p> +<p>At length a bright gleam of sunshine roused me from my slumbers, +and summoned me to the broad terrace of Chiaja, directly above the waters +and commanding the whole coast of Posilipo. Insensibly I drew +towards it, and (you know the pace I run when out upon discoveries) +soon reached the entrance of the grotto, which lay in dark shades, whilst +the crags that lower over it were brightly illumined. Shrubs and +vines grow luxuriantly in the crevices of the rock; and their fresh +yellow colours, variegated with ivy, have a beautiful effect. +To the right a grove of pines sprung from the highest pinnacles: on +the left, bay and chestnut conceal the tomb of Virgil, placed on the +summit of a cliff which impends over the opening of the grotto, and +is fringed with a florid vegetation. Beneath are several wide +apertures hollowed in the solid stone, which lead to caverns sixty or +seventy feet in depth, where a number of peasants, who were employed +in quarrying, made such a noise with their tools and their voices as +almost inclined me to wish the Cimmerians would start from their subterraneous +habitations, and sacrifice these profane to the Manes.</p> +<p>Walking out of the sunshine, I seated myself on a loose stone immediately +beneath the first gloomy arch of the grotto, and looking down the vast +and solemn perspective, terminated by a speck of grey uncertain light, +venerated a work which some old chroniclers have imagined as ancient +as the Trojan war. ’Twas here the mysterious race I have +just mentioned performed their infernal rites, and it was this excavation +perhaps which led to their abode.</p> +<p>The Neapolitans attribute a more modern, though full as problematical +an origin to their famous cavern, and most piously believe it to have +been formed by the enchantments of Virgil, who, as Mr. Addison very +justly observes, is better known at Naples in his magical character, +than as the author of the Æneid. This strange infatuation +most probably arose from the vicinity of the tomb, in which his ashes +are supposed to have been deposited; and which, according to popular +tradition, was guarded by those very spirits who assisted in constructing +the cave. But whatever may have given rise to these ideas, certain +it is they were not confined to the lower ranks alone. King Robert, +<a name="citation240"></a><a href="#footnote240">{240}</a> a wise though +far from poetical monarch, conducted his friend Petrarch with great +solemnity to the spot; and, pointing to the entrance of the grotto, +very gravely asked him, whether he did not adopt the general belief, +and conclude this stupendous passage derived its origin from Virgil’s +powerful incantations? The answer, I think, may easily be conjectured.</p> +<p>When I had sat for some time, contemplating this dusky avenue, and +trying to persuade myself that it was hewn by the Cimmerians, I retreated +without proceeding any farther, and followed a narrow path which led +me, after some windings and turnings, along the brink of the precipice, +across a vineyard, to that retired nook of the rocks which shelters +Virgil’s tomb, most venerably mossed over, and more than half +concealed by bushes and vegetation. Drops of dew were distilling +from the niches of the little chamber, which once contained his urn, +and heaps of withered leaves had gathered on the pavement. Amongst +these I crept to eat some grapes and biscuits, having duly scattered +a few crumbs as a sort of offering to the invisible guardians of the +place. I believe they were sensible of my piety, and, as a reward, +kept vagabonds and clowns away.</p> +<p>The one who conducted me remained aloof at awful distance, whilst +I sat commercing with the manes of my beloved poet, or straggling about +the shrubbery which hangs directly above the mouth of the grot. +I wonder I did not visit the eternal shades sooner that I expected, +for no squirrel ever skipped from bough to bough more venturously. +One instant I climbed up the branches of a chestnut, and sat almost +on its extremity, my feet impending over the chasm below; another I +boldly advanced to the edge of the rock, and saw crowds of people and +carriages, diminished by distance, issuing from the bosom of the mountain, +and disappearing almost as soon as discovered in the windings of its +road. Having clambered high above the cavern, I hazarded my neck +on the top of one of the pines, and looked contemptuously down on the +race of pigmies that were so busily moving to and fro. The sun +was fiercer than I could have wished, but the sea-breezes fanned me +in my aërial situation, which commanded the grand sweep of the +bay, varied by convents, palaces, and gardens, mixed with huge masses +of rock and crowned by the stately buildings of the Carthusians and +fortress of St. Elmo. Add a glittering blue sea to this perspective, +with Caprea rising from its bosom, and Vesuvius breathing forth a white +column of smoke into the ether, and you will then have a scene upon +which I gazed with delight, for more than an hour, almost forgetting +that I was perched upon the head of a pine, with nothing but a frail +branch to uphold me. However, I descended alive, as Virgil’s +genii, I am resolved to believe, were my protectors.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XXIII</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p><i>November</i> 8<i>th</i>. - This morning I awoke in the glow of +sunshine; the air blew fresh and fragrant; never did I feel more elastic +and enlivened. A brisker flow of spirits than I had for many a +day experienced, animated me with a desire of rambling about the shore +of Baii, and creeping into caverns and subterraneous chambers. +Off I set along Chiaja, and up strange paths which impend over the grotto +of Posilipo, amongst the thickets mentioned a letter or two ago; for +in my present lively humour, I disdained ordinary roads, and would take +paths and ways of my own. A society of kids did not understand +what I meant by intruding upon their precipices; and scrambling away, +scattered sand and fragments upon the good people that were trudging +along the pavement below.</p> +<p>I went on from pine to pine, and thicket to thicket, upon the brink +of rapid declivities. My conductor, a shrewd savage, whom Sir +William had recommended to me, cheered our route with stories that had +passed in the neighbourhood, and traditions about the grot over which +we were travelling. I wish you had been of the party, and sat +down by us on little smooth spots of sward, where I reclined, scarcely +knowing which way caprice was leading me. My mind was full of +the tales of the place, and glowed with a vehement desire of exploring +the world beyond the grot. I longed to ascend the promontory of +Misenus, and follow the same dusky route down which the Sibyl conducted +Æneas.</p> +<p>With these dispositions I proceeded; and soon the cliffs and copses +opened to views of the Baian bay, with the little isles of Niscita and +Lazaretto lifting themselves out of the waters. Procita and Ischia +appeared at a distance, invested with that purple bloom so inexpressibly +beautiful, and peculiar to this fortunate climate. I hailed the +prospect and blessed the transparent air that gave me life and vigour +to run down the rocks, and hie as fast as my savage across the plain +to Puzzoli. There we took bark and rowed out into the blue ocean, +by the remains of a sturdy mole: many such, I imagine, adorned the bay +in Roman ages crowned by vast lengths of slender pillars; pavilions +at their extremities, and taper cypresses spiring above their balustrades: +this character of villa occurs very frequently in the paintings of Herculaneum.</p> +<p>We had soon crossed the bay, and landing on a bushy coast, near some +fragments of a temple which they say was raised to Hercules, advanced +into the country by narrow tracks covered with moss and strewed with +shining pebbles; to the right and left, broad masses of luxuriant foliage, +chestnut, bay, and ilex, that shelter the ruins of columbariums and +sepulchral chambers, where the dead sleep snug amongst rampant herbage. +The region was still, save when a cock crew from the hamlets, which, +as well as the tombs, are almost concealed by thickets. No parties +of smart Englishmen and connoisseurs were about. I had all the +land to myself, and mounted its steeps and penetrated into its recesses, +with the importance of a discoverer. What a variety of narrow +paths, between banks and shades, did I wildly follow! my savage laughing +loud at my odd gestures and useless activity. He wondered I did +not scrape the ground for medals, and pocket little bits of plaster, +like other plausible young travellers that had gone before me.</p> +<p>After ascending some time, I followed him into the Piscina Mirabilis, +the wondrous reservoir which Nero constructed to supply his fleet, when +anchored in the neighbouring bay. ’Tis a grand labyrinth +of solid vaults and pillars, as you well know, but you cannot conceive +the partial gleams of sunshine which played on the arches, nor the variety +of roots and ivies trailing from the cove. A noise of trickling +waters prevailed, that had almost lulled me to sleep as I rested myself +on the celandine which carpets the floor; but curiosity urging me forward, +I gained the upper air; walked amongst woods a few minutes, and then +into grots and dismal excavations (prisons they call them), which began +to weary me.</p> +<p>After having gone up and down in this manner for some time, we at +last reached an eminence that looked over the Mare Morto, and Elysian +fields trembling with poplars. The Dead Lake, a faithful emblem +of eternal tranquillity, looked deep and solemn. A few peasants +were passing along its margin, their shadows reflected on the water: +all was serene and peaceful. Turning from the lake I espied a +rock at about a league distant, whose summit was clad with verdure, +and finding this to be the promontory of Misenus, I immediately set +my face to that quarter.</p> +<p>We passed several dirty villages, inhabited by an ill-favoured generation, +infamous for depredations and murders. Their gardens, however, +discover some marks of industry; the fields are separated by neat hedges +of cane, and corn seemed to flourish in the inclosures.</p> +<p>I walked on with slowness and deliberation, musing at every step, +and stopping ever and anon to rest myself by springs and tufted bay-trees; +when insensibly we began to leave the cultivated lands behind us, and +to lose ourselves in shady wilds, which, to all appearance, no mortal +had ever trodden. Here were no paths, no enclosures; a primeval +rudeness characterized the whole scene, -</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p> “Juvat arva videre,<br />Non rastris, hominum +non ulli obnoxia curæ.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>The idea of going almost out of the world, soothed the tone of mind +into which a variety of affecting recollections had thrown me. +I formed conjectures about the promontory to which we were tending; +and when I cast my eyes around the savage landscape, transported myself +four thousand years into antiquity, and half persuaded myself I was +one of Æneas’s companions. After forcing our way about +a mile through glades of shrubs and briars, we entered a verdant opening +at the base of the cliff which takes its name from Misenus. The +poets of the Augustan age would have celebrated such a meadow with the +warmest raptures; they would have discovered a nymph in every flower, +and detected a dryad under every tree. Doubtless imagination never +formed a lovelier prospect. Here were clear streams and grassy +hillocks, leafy shrubs and cypresses spiring out of their bosom, -</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“Et circum irriguo surgebant lilia prato<br />Candida purpureis +mista papaveribus.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>But as it is not the lot of human animals to be contented, instead +of reposing in the vale, I scaled the rock, and was three parts dissolved +in attaining its summit, - a flat spot covered with herbage, where I +lay contemplating the ocean, and fanned by its breezes. The sun +darted upon my head; I wished to avoid its immediate influence: no tree +was near. Deep below lay the pleasant valley: ’twas a long +way to descend. Looking round and round, I spied something like +a hut, under a crag on the edge of a dark fissure. Might I avail +myself of its covert? My conductor answered in the affirmative, +and added that it was inhabited by a good old woman, who never refused +a cup of milk, or slice of bread, to refresh a weary traveller.</p> +<p>Thirst and fatigue urged me speedily down an intervening slope of +stunted myrtle. Though oppressed with heat, I could not help deviating +a few steps from the direct path to notice the uncouth rocks which rose +frowning on every quarter. Above the hut, their appearance was +truly formidable; dark ivy crept among the crevices, and dwarf aloes +with sharp spines, such as Lucifer himself might be supposed to have +sown. Indeed, I knew not whether I was not approaching some gate +that leads to his abode, as I drew near a gulph (the fissure lately +mentioned) and heard the hollow gusts which were imprisoned below. +The savage, my guide, shuddered as he passed by to apprise the old woman +of my coming. I felt strangely, and stared around me, and but +half liked my situation. To say truth, I wished myself away, and +heartily regretted the green vale.</p> +<p>In the midst of my doubts, forth tottered the old woman. “You +are welcome,” said she, in a feeble voice, but a better dialect +than I had heard in the neighbourhood. Her look was more humane, +and she seemed of a superior race to the inhabitants of the surrounding +valleys. My savage treated her with peculiar deference. +She had just given him some bread, with which he retired to a respectful +distance, bowing to the earth. I caught the mode, and was very +obsequious, thinking myself on the point of experiencing a witch’s +influence, and gaining, perhaps, some insight into the volume of futurity. +She smiled at my agitation, and kept beckoning me into the cottage.</p> +<p>“Now,” thought I to myself, “I am upon the verge +of an adventure. O Quixote! O Sylvio di Rosalva! how would +ye have strutted in such a situation! What fair Infantas would +ye not have expected to behold, condemned to spinning wheels, and solitude?” +I, alas! saw nothing but clay walls, a straw bed, some glazed earthen +bowls, and a wooden crucifix. My shoes were loaded with sand: +this my hostess perceived, and immediately kindling a fire in an inner +part of the hovel, brought out some warm water to refresh my feet, and +set some milk and chestnuts before me. This patriarchal politeness +was by no means indifferent after my tiresome ramble. I sat down +opposite to the door which fronted the unfathomable gulph; beyond appeared +the sea, of a deep cerulean, foaming with waves. The sky also +was darkening apace with storms. Sadness came over me like a cloud, +and I looked up to the old woman for consolation.</p> +<p>“And you too are sorrowful, young stranger,” said she, +“that come from the gay world! How must I feel, who pass +year after year in these lonely mountains?” I answered that +the weather affected me, and my spirits were exhausted by the walk.</p> +<p>All the while I spoke she looked at me with such a melancholy earnestness +that I asked the cause, and began again to imagine myself in some fatal +habitation,</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“Where more is meant than meets the ear.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Said she, “Your features are wonderfully like those of an unfortunate +young person, who, in this retirement . . . ” The tears +began to fall as she pronounced these words; she seemed older than before, +and bent to the ground with sorrow. My curiosity was fired. +“Tell me,” continued I, “what you mean? who was this +youth for whom you are so interested? and why did he seclude himself +in this wild region? Your kindness might no doubt alleviate, in +some measure, the horrors of the place; but may God defend me from passing +the night near such a gulph! I would not trust myself in a despairing +moment.”</p> +<p>“It is,” said she, “a place of horrors. I +tremble to relate what has happened on this very spot; but your manner +interests me, and though I am little given to narrations, for once I +will unlock my lips concerning the secrets of yonder fatal chasm.</p> +<p>“I was born in a distant part of Italy, and have known better +days. In my youth fortune smiled upon my family, but in a few +years they withered away; no matter by what accident. I am not +going, however, to talk of myself. Have patience a few moments! +A series of unfortunate events reduced me to indigence, and drove me +to this desert, where, from rearing goats and making their milk into +cheese, by a different method than is common in the Neapolitan State, +I have, for about thirty years, prolonged a sorrowful existence. +My silent grief and constant retirement had made me appear to some a +saint, and to others a sorceress. The slight knowledge I have +of plants has been exaggerated, and, some years back, the hours I gave +up to prayer, and the recollection of former friends, lost to me for +ever! were cruelly intruded upon by the idle and the ignorant. +But soon I sank into obscurity; my little recipes were disregarded, +and you are the first stranger who, for these twelve months past, has +visited my abode. Ah, would to God its solitude had ever remained +inviolate!</p> +<p>“It is now three-and-twenty years,” and she looked upon +some characters cut on the planks of the cottage, “since I was +sitting by moonlight, under that cliff you view to the right, my eyes +fixed on the ocean, my mind lost in the memory of my misfortunes, when +I heard a step, and starting up, a figure stood before me. It +was a young man, in a rich habit, with streaming hair, and looks that +bespoke the utmost terror. I knew not what to think of this sudden +apparition. ‘Mother,’ said he with faltering accents, +‘let me rest under your roof; and deliver me not up to those who +thirst after my blood. Take this gold; take all, all!’</p> +<p>“Surprise held me speechless; the purse fell to the ground; +the youth stared wildly on every side: I heard many voices beyond the +rocks; the wind bore them distinctly, but presently they died away. +I took courage, and assured the youth my cot should shelter him. +‘Oh! thank you, thank you!’ answered he, and pressed my +hand. He shared my scanty provision.</p> +<p>“Overcome with toil (for I had worked hard in the day), sleep +closed my eyes for a short interval. When I awoke the moon was +set, but I heard my unhappy guest sobbing in darkness. I disturbed +him not. Morning dawned, and he was fallen into a slumber. +The tears bubbled out of his closed eyelids, and coursed one another +down his wan cheeks. I had been too wretched myself not to respect +the sorrows of another: neglecting therefore my accustomed occupations, +I drove away the flies that buzzed around his temples. His breast +heaved high with sighs, and he cried loudly in his sleep for mercy.</p> +<p>“The beams of the sun dispelling his dream, he started up like +one that had heard the voice of an avenging angel, and hid his face +with his hands. I poured some milk down his parched throat. +‘Oh, mother!’ he exclaimed, ‘I am a wretch unworthy +of compassion; the cause of innumerable sufferings; a murderer! a parricide!’ +My blood curdled to hear a stripling utter such dreadful words, and +behold such agonising sighs swell in so young a bosom; for I marked +the sting of conscience urging him to disclose what I am going to relate.</p> +<p>“It seems he was of high extraction, nursed in the pomps and +luxuries of Naples, the pride and darling of his parents, adorned with +a thousand lively talents, which the keenest sensibility conspired to +improve. Unable to fix any bounds to whatever became the object +of his desires, he passed his first years in roving from one extravagance +to another, but as yet there was no crime in his caprices.</p> +<p>“At length it pleased Heaven to visit his family, and make +their idol the slave of an unworthy passion. He had a friend, +who from his birth had been devoted to his interest, and placed all +his confidence in him. This friend loved to distraction a young +creature, the most graceful of her sex (as I can witness), and she returned +his affection. In the exultation of his heart, he showed her to +the wretch whose tale I am about to tell. He sickened at her sight. +She too caught fire at his glances. They languished - they consumed +away - they conversed, and his persuasive language finished what his +guilty glances had begun.</p> +<p>“Their flame was soon discovered, for he disdained to conceal +a thought, however dishonourable. The parents warned the youth +in the tenderest manner; but advice and prudent counsels were to him +so loathsome, that unable to contain his rage, and infatuated with love, +he menaced the life of his friend as the obstacle of his enjoyment. +Coolness and moderation were opposed to violence and frenzy, and he +found himself treated with a contemptuous gentleness. Stricken +to the heart, he wandered about for some time like one entranced. +Meanwhile the nuptials were preparing; and the lovely girl he had perverted +found ways to let him know she was about to be torn from his embraces.</p> +<p>“He raved, and rousing his dire spirit, applied to a malignant +dæmon who sold the most inveterate poisons. These he presented, +like a cup of pure iced water, to his friend, and to his own affectionate +father. They drank the draught, and soon began to pine. +He marked the progress of their dissolution with a horrid firmness. +He let the moment pass beyond which all antidotes were vain. His +friend expired; and the young criminal, though he beheld the dews of +death hang on his parent’s forehead, yet stretched not forth his +hand. In a short space the miserable father breathed his last, +whilst his son was sitting aloof in the same chamber.</p> +<p>“The sight overcame him. He felt, for the first time, +the pangs of remorse. His agitation passed not unnoticed. +He was watched: suspicions beginning to unfold, he took alarm, and one +evening escaped; but not without previously informing the partner of +his crimes which way he intended to flee. Several pursued; but +the inscrutable will of Providence blinded their search, and I was doomed +to behold the effects of celestial vengeance.</p> +<p>“Such are the chief circumstances of the tale I gathered from +the youth. I swooned whilst he related it, and could take no sustenance. +One whole day afterwards did I pray the Lord, that I might die rather +than be near an incarnate demon. With what indignation did I now +survey that slender form and those flowing tresses, which had interested +me before so much in his behalf!</p> +<p>“No sooner did he perceive the change in my countenance, than +sullenly retiring to yonder rock, he sat careless of the sun and scorching +winds; for it was now the summer solstice. Equally was he heedless +of the unwholesome dews. When midnight came my horrors were augmented; +and I meditated several times to abandon my hovel, and fly to the next +village; but a power more than human chained me to the spot and fortified +my mind.</p> +<p>“I slept, and it was late next morning when some one called +at the wicket of the little fold, where my goats are penned. I +arose, and saw a peasant of my acquaintance leading a female strangely +muffled up, and casting her eyes on the ground. My heart misgave +me. I thought this was the very maid who had been the cause of +such unheard-of wickedness. Nor were my conjectures ill-founded. +Regardless of the clown who stood by in stupid astonishment, she fell +to the earth and bathed my hand with tears. Her trembling lips +with difficulty inquired after the youth; and, as she spoke, a glow +of conscious guilt lightened up her pale countenance.</p> +<p>“The full recollection of her lover’s crimes shot through +my memory. I was incensed, and would have spurned her away; but +she clung to my garments and seemed to implore my pity with a look so +full of misery, that, relenting, I led her in silence to the extremity +of the cliff where the youth was seated, his feet dangling above the +sea. His eye was rolling wildly around, but it soon fixed upon +the object for whose sake he had doomed himself to perdition.</p> +<p>“I am not inclined to describe their ecstasies, or the eagerness +with which they sought each other’s embraces. I turned indignantly +my head; and, driving my goats to a recess amongst the rocks, sat revolving +in my mind these strange events. I neglected procuring any provision +for my unwelcome guests; and about midnight returned homewards by the +light of the moon, which shone serenely in the heavens. Almost +the first object her beams discovered was the guilty maid sustaining +the head of her lover, who had fainted through weakness and want of +nourishment. I fetched some dry bread, and, dipping it in milk, +laid it before them. Having performed this duty I set open the +door of my hut, and retiring to a neighbouring cavity, there stretched +myself on a heap of leaves, and offered my prayers to Heaven.</p> +<p>“A thousand fears, till this moment unknown, thronged into +my fancy. I mistook the shadow of leaves, that chequered the entrance +to the grot, for ugly reptiles, and repeatedly shook my garments. +The flow of the distant surges was deepened by my apprehensions into +distant groans: in a word, I could not rest; but issuing from the cavern +as hastily as my trembling knees would allow, paced along the edge of +the precipice. An unaccountable impulse hurried my steps. +Dark clouds were driving across the sky, and the setting moon was flushed +with the deepest crimson. A wan gleam coloured the sea. +Such was my terror and shivering, that, unable to advance to my hut +or retreat to the cavern, I was about to shield myself from the night +in a sandy crevice, when a loud shriek pierced my ear. My fears +had confused me; I was in fact hard by my hovel, and scarcely three +paces from the brink of the cavern: it was from thence the cries proceeded.</p> +<p>“Advancing in a cold shudder to its edge, part of which was +newly crumbled in, I discovered the form of the young man suspended +by one foot to a branch of juniper that grew ten feet down: thus dreadfully +did he hang over the gulph from the branch bent with his weight. +His features were distorted, his eye-balls glared with agony, and his +screams became so shrill and terrible, that I lost all power of assistance. +Fixed, I stood with my eyes riveted upon the criminal, who incessantly +cried out, ‘O God! O Father! save me, if there be yet mercy! +save me, or I sink into the abyss!’</p> +<p>“I am convinced he saw me not; for not once did he implore +my help. My heart was dead within me. I called out upon +the Lord. His voice grew faint, and as I gazed intent upon him, +he fell into utter darkness. I sank to the earth in a trance, +during which a sound like the rush of pennons assaulted my ear: methought +the evil spirit was bearing off his soul; I lifted up my eyes, but nothing +stirred; the stillness that prevailed was awful.</p> +<p>“The moon looked stained with streaks of blood; her orb hanging +low over the waves afforded a sickly light, by which I perceived some +one coming down that white cliff you see before you; and soon I heard +the voice of the young woman calling aloud on her guilty lover. +She stopped. She repeated again and again her exclamation; but +there was no reply. Alarmed and frantic she hurried along the +path, and now I saw her on the promontory, and now by yonder pine, devouring +with her glances every crevice in the rock. At length perceiving +me, she flew to where I stood, by the fatal precipice, and having noticed +the fragments fresh crumbled in, pored importunately on my countenance. +I continued pointing to the chasm; she trembled not; her tears could +not flow; but she divined the meaning. ‘He is lost!’ +said she; ‘the earth has swallowed him! but, as I have shared +with him the highest joy, so will I partake his torments. I will +follow; dare not to hinder me.’ I shrank back.</p> +<p>“Like the phantoms I have seen in dreams, she glanced beside +me; and, clasping her hands above her head, lifted a steadfast look +on the hemisphere, and viewed the moon with an anxiousness that told +me she was bidding it farewell for ever. Observing a silken handkerchief +on the ground, with which she had but an hour ago bound her lover’s +temples, she snatched it up, and imprinting it with burning kisses, +thrust it into her bosom. Once more, expanding her arms in the +last act of despair and miserable passion, she threw herself, with a +furious leap, into the gulph.</p> +<p>“To its margin I crawled on my knees, and, shuddering, looked +down into the gloom. There I remained in the most dreadful darkness; +for now the moon was sunk, the sky obscured with storms, and a tempestuous +blast ranging the ocean. Showers poured thick upon me, and the +lightning, in clear and frequent flashes, gave me terrifying glimpses +of yonder accursed chasm.</p> +<p>“Stranger, dost thou believe in the great Being? in our Redeemer? +in the tenets of our faith?” I answered with reverence, +but said I was no Catholic. “Then,” continued the +aged woman, “I will not declare before a heretic what were the +sacred visions of that night of vengeance!” She paused; +I was silent.</p> +<p>After a short interval, with deep and frequent sighs, she resumed +her narrative. “Daylight began to dawn as if with difficulty, +and it was late before its radiance had tinged the watery and tempestuous +clouds. I was still kneeling by the gulph in prayer when the cliffs +began to brighten, and the beams of the morning sun to strike against +me. Then did I rejoice. Then no longer did I think myself +of all human beings the most abject and miserable. How different +did I feel myself from those, fresh plunged into the abodes of torment, +and driven for ever from the morning!</p> +<p>“Three days elapsed in total solitude: on the fourth, some +grave and ancient persons arrived from Naples, who questioned me, repeatedly, +about the wretched lovers, and to whom I related their fate with every +dreadful particular. Soon after I learned that all discourse concerning +them was expressly stopped, and that no prayers were offered up for +their souls.”</p> +<p>With these words, as well as I recollect, the old woman ended her +singular narration. My blood thrilled as I walked by the gulph +to call my guide, who stood aloof under the cliffs. He seemed +to think, from the paleness of my countenance, that I had heard some +gloomy prediction, and shook his head when I turned round to bid my +old hostess adieu! It was a melancholy evening, and I could not +refrain from tears, as, winding through the defiles of the rocks, the +sad scenes which had passed amongst them recurred to my memory.</p> +<p>Traversing a wild thicket, we soon regained the shore, where I rambled +a few minutes whilst the peasant went for the boatmen. The last +streaks of light were quivering on the waters when I stepped into the +bark, and wrapping myself up in an awning, slept till we reached Puzzoli, +some of whose inhabitants came forth with torches to light us home.</p> +<p>I was vexed to be roused from my visions, and had much rather have +sunk in some deep cave of the Cimmerians than returned to Naples.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XXIV</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>NAPLES, <i>November</i> 9<i>th.</i></p> +<p>We made our excursion to Pompeii, passing through Portici, and over +the last lava of Mount Vesuvius. I experienced a strange mixture +of sensations, on surveying at once the mischiefs of the late eruption, +in the ruin of villages, farms, and vineyards; and all around them the +most luxuriant and delightful scenery of nature. It was impossible +to resist the impressions of melancholy from viewing the former, or +not to admit that gaiety of spirits which was inspired by the sight +of the latter. I say nothing of the Museum at Portici, which we +saw in our way, on account of the ample description of its contents +already given to the public, and because it should be described no otherwise +than by an exact catalogue, or by an exhibition of engravings. +An hour and half brought us from this celebrated repository to Pompeii. +Nothing can be conceived more delightful than the climate and situation +of this city. It stands upon a gently-rising hill, which commands +the bay of Naples, with the islands of Caprea and Ischia, the rich coasts +of Sorento, the tower of Castel a Mare; and on the other side, Mount +Vesuvius, with the lovely country intervening. It is judged to +be about an Italian mile long, and three and a half in circuit. +We entered the city at the little gate which lies towards Stabiæ. +The first object upon entering is a colonnade round a square court, +which seems to have formed a place of arms. Behind the colonnade +is a series of little rooms, destined for the soldiers’ barracks. +The columns are of stone, plaistered with stucco and coloured. +On several of them we found names scratched in Greek and Latin; probably +those of the soldiers who had been quartered there. Helmets and +armour for various parts of the body were discovered amongst the skeletons +of some soldiers, whose hard fate had compelled them to wait on duty, +at the perilous moment of the city’s approaching destruction. +Dolphins and tridents, sculptured in relief on most of these relics +of armour, seem to show that they had been fabricated for naval service. +Some of the sculptures on the arms, probably belonging to officers, +exhibit a greater variety of ornaments. The taking of Troy, wrought +on one of the helmets, is beautifully executed; and much may be said +in commendation of the work of several others.</p> +<p>We were next led to the remains of a temple and altar near these +barracks. From thence to some rooms floored (as indeed were almost +all that have been cleared from the rubbish) with tesselated mosaic +pavements of various patterns, and most of them of very excellent execution. +Many of these have been taken up, and now form the floors of the rooms +in the Museum at Portici, whose best ornaments of every kind are furnished +from the discoveries at Pompeii. From the rooms just mentioned +we descended into a subterraneous chamber, communicating with a bathing +apartment. It appears to have served as a kind of office to the +latter. It was probably here that the clothes used in bathing +were washed. A fireplace, a capacious cauldron of bronze, and +earthen vessels, proper for that purpose, found here, have given rise +to the conjecture. Contiguous to this room is a small circular +one with a fireplace, which was the stove to the bath. I should +not forget to tell you that the skeleton of the poor laundress (for +so the antiquaries will have it), who was very diligently washing the +bathing clothes at the time of the eruption, was found lying in an attitude +of most resigned death, not far from the washing cauldron in the office +just mentioned.</p> +<p>We were now conducted to the temple, or rather chapel, of Isis. +The chief remains are a covered cloister; the great altar on which was +probably exhibited the statue of the goddess; a little edifice to protect +the sacred well; the pediment of the chapel, with a symbolical vase +in relief; ornaments in stucco, on the front of the main building, consisting +of the lotus, the sistrum, representations of gods, Harpocrates, Anubis, +and other objects of Egyptian worship. The figures on one side +of this temple are Perseus with the Gorgon’s head; on the other +side, Mars and Venus, with Cupids bearing the arms of Mars. We +next observe three altars of different sizes. On one of them is +said to have been found the bones of a victim unconsumed, the last sacrifice +having probably been stopped by the dreadful calamity which had occasioned +it. From a niche in the temple was taken a statue of marble: a +woman pressing her lips with her forefinger. Within the area is +a well, where the priest threw the ashes of the sacrifices. We +saw in the Museum at Portici some lovely arabesque paintings, cut from +the walls of the cloister. The foliage which ran round the whole +sweep of the cloister itself is in the finest taste. A tablet +of basalt with Egyptian hieroglyphics was transported from thence to +Portici, together with the following inscription, taken from the front +gate of the chapel:</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>N. POPIDUS N. F. CELSINUS.<br />AEDEM ISIDIS TERRAE MOTU COLLAPSAM<br />A +FUNDAMENTO P. SUA RESTITUIT<br />HUNC DECURIONES OB LIBERALITATEM<br />CUM +ESSET ANNORUM SEX ORDINI SUO<br />GRATIS ADLEGERUNT.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>Behind one of the altars we saw a small room, in which, our guide +informed us, a human skeleton had been discovered, with some fish bones +on a plate near it, and a number of other culinary utensils. We +then passed on to another apartment, almost contiguous, where nothing +more remarkable had been found than an iron crow: an instrument with +which perhaps the unfortunate wretch, whose skeleton I have mentioned +above, had vainly endeavoured to extricate herself, this room being +probably barricaded by the matter of the eruption. This temple, +rebuilt, as the inscription imports, by N. Popidius, had been thrown +down by a terrible earthquake, that likewise destroyed a great part +of the city (sixteen years before the famous eruption of Vesuvius described +by Pliny, which happened in the first year of Titus, A.D. 79) and buried +at once both Herculaneum and Pompeii. As I lingered alone in these +environs sacred to Isis, some time after my companions had quitted them, +I fell into one of those reveries which my imagination is so fond of +indulging; and transporting myself seventeen hundred years back, fancied +I was sailing with the elder Pliny, on the first day’s eruption, +from Misenum, towards Retina and Herculaneum; and afterwards towards +the villa of his friend Pomponianus at Stabiæ. The course +of our galley seldom carried us out of sight of Pompeii, and as often +as I could divert my attention from the tremendous spectacle of the +eruption, its enormous pillar of smoke standing conically in the air, +and tempests of liquid fire continually bursting out from the midst +of it, then raining down the sides of the mountain, and flooding this +beautiful coast with innumerable streams of red-hot lava, methought +I turned my eyes upon this fair city, whose houses, villas, and gardens, +with their long ranges of columned courts and porticos, were made visible +through the universal cloud of ashes, by lightning from the mountain; +and saw its distracted inhabitants, men, women, and children, running +to and fro in despair. But in one spot, I mean the court and precincts +of the temple, glared a continual light. It was the blaze of the +altars; towards which I discerned a long-robed train of priests moving +in solemn procession, to supplicate by prayer and sacrifice, at this +destructive moment, the intervention of Isis, who had taught the first +fathers of mankind the culture of the earth, and other arts of civil +life. Methought I could distinguish in their hands all those paintings +and images, sacred to this divinity, brought out on this portentous +occasion, from the subterraneous apartments and mystic cells of the +temple. There was every form of creeping thing and abominable +beast, every Egyptian pollution which the true prophet had seen in vision, +among the secret idolatries of the temple at Jerusalem. The priests +arrived at the altars; I saw them gathered round, and purifying the +three at once with the sacred meal; then, all moving slowly about them, +each with his right hand towards the fire: it was the office of some +to seize the firebrands of the altars, with which they sprinkled holy +water on the numberless bystanders. Then began the prayers, the +hymns, and lustrations of the sacrifice. The priests had laid +the victims with their throats downward upon the altars; were ransacking +the baskets of flour and salt for the knives of slaughter, and proceeding +in haste to the accomplishment of their pious ceremonies; - when one +of our company, who thought me lost, returned with impatience, and calling +me off to some new object, put an end to my strange reverie. We +were now summoned to pay some attention to the scene and corridor of +a theatre, not far from the temple. Little more of its remains +being yet cleared away, we hastened back to a small house and garden +in the neighbourhood of Isis. Sir W. Hamilton (in his account +of Pompeii communicated to the Society of Antiquaries), when speaking +of this house, having taken occasion to give a general idea of the private +mansions of the ancient citizens, I shall take the liberty of transcribing +the whole passage. “A covered cloister, supported by columns, +goes round the house, as was customary in many of the houses at Pompeii. +The rooms in general are very small, and in one, where an iron bedstead +was found, the wall had been pared away to make room for this bedstead; +so that it was not six feet square, and yet this room was most elegantly +painted, and had a tesselated or mosaic floor. The weight of the +matter erupted from Mount Vesuvius has universally damaged the upper +parts of the houses; the lower parts are mostly found as fresh as at +the moment they were buried. The plan of most of the houses at +Pompeii is a square court, with a fountain in the middle, and small +rooms round, communicating with that court. By the construction +and distribution of the houses, it seems, the inhabitants of Pompeii +were fond of privacy. They had few windows towards the street, +except where, from the nature of the plan, they could not avoid it; +but even in that case the windows were placed too high for anyone in +the streets to overlook them. Their houses nearly resemble each +other, both as to distribution of plan, and in the manner of finishing +the apartments. The rooms are in general small, from ten to twelve +feet, and from fourteen to eighteen feet; few communications between +room and room, almost all without windows, except the apartments situated +to the gardens, which are thought to have been allotted to the women. +Their cortiles, or courts, were often surrounded by porticos, even in +very small houses; not but there were covered galleries before the doors +of their apartments to afford shade and shelter. No timber was +used in finishing their apartments, except in doors and windows. +The floors were generally laid in mosaic work. One general taste +prevailed of painting the sides and ceilings of the rooms. Small +figures and medallions of low relief were sometimes introduced. +Their great variety consisted in the colours, and in the choice and +delicacy of the ornaments, in which they displayed great harmony and +taste. Their houses were some two, others three stories high.”</p> +<p>We now pursued our way through what is with some probability thought +to have been the principal street. Its narrowness, however, surprised +me. It is scarcely eleven feet wide, clear of the footways raised +on each side of it. The pavement is formed of a large sort of +flattish-surfaced pebbles; not laid down with the greatest evenness +or regularity. The sideways may be about a yard wide, each paved, +irregularly enough, with small stones. There are guard stones +at equal intervals, to defend the foot passengers from carriages and +horses. I cannot say I found anything either elegant or pleasant +in the effect of this open street. But, as the houses in general +present little more than a dead wall towards it, I do not imagine any +views, beyond mere use and convenience, were consulted in the plan. +It led us, however, through the principal gate or entrance, to a sort +of Villa Rustica, without the limits of the city, which amply recompensed +our curiosity. The arcade surrounding a square garden, or courtyard, +offers itself first to the observer’s notice. Into this +open a number of coved rooms, adorned with paintings of figures and +arabesques. These rooms, though small, have a rich and elegant +appearance, their ornaments being very well executed, and retaining +still their original freshness. On the top of the arcade runs +a walk or open terrace, leading to the larger apartments of the higher +story. One of the rooms below has a capacious bow-window, where +several panes of glass, somewhat shattered, were found, but in sufficient +preservation to show that the ancients were not without knowledge of +this species of manufacture. As Horace and most of the old Latin +Poets dwell much on the praises of ancient conviviality, and appear +to have valued themselves considerably on their connoisseurship in wine, +it was with great pleasure I descended into the spacious cellars, sunk +and vaulted beneath the arcade above-mentioned. Several earthen +amphoræ were standing in rows against the walls, but the Massic +and Falernian with which they were once stored, had probably long been +totally absorbed by the earth and ashes, which were now the sole contents +of these venerable jars. The ancients are thought to have used +oil, instead of corks, and that the stoppers were of some matter that +could make but little resistance, seems confirmed by the entrance of +that, which now supplied the place with wine. The skeletons of +several of the family who had possessed this villa were discovered in +the cellar, together with brass and silver coins, and many such ornaments +of dress as were of more durable materials. On re-ascending, we +went to the hot and cold baths; thence to the back of the villa, separated +by a passage from the more elegant part of the house; we were shown +some rooms which had been occupied by the farmer, and from whence several +implements of agriculture had been carried, to enrich the collection +at Portici. On the whole, the plan and construction of this villa +are extremely curious, and its situation very happily chosen. +I could not, however, help feeling some regret, in not having had the +good fortune to be present at the first discovery. It must have +been highly interesting to see all its ancient relics (the greatest +part of which are now removed) each in its proper place; or, at least, +in the place they had possessed for so long a course of years. +His Sicilian Majesty has ordered a correct draught of this villa to +be taken, which, it is hoped, will one day be published, with a complete +account of all the discoveries at Pompeii.</p> +<p>Our next walk was to see the Columbarium, a very solemn looking edifice, +where probably the families of higher rank only at Pompeii, deposited +the urns of their deceased kindred. Several of these urns, with +their ashes, and one among the rest of glass, inclosed in another of +earth, were dug out of the sepulchral vaults. A quantity of marble +statues, of but ordinary execution, and colossal masks of terra-cotta, +constituted the chief ornaments of the Columbarium. It is situated +without the gates, on the same side of the city as the villa just described. +There is something characteristically sad in its aspect. It threw +my mind into a melancholy, but not disagreeable tone. Under the +mixed sentiments it inspired, I cast one lingering look back on the +whole affecting scene of ruins, over which I had for several hours been +rambling, and quitted it to return to Naples, not without great reluctance.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XXV</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>ROME, <i>December</i> 9<i>th.</i></p> +<p>My last letter was despatched in such a hurry that I had not time +to conclude it. This will be nearly as imperfect; but yet I cannot +forbear writing, having the vanity to believe that you are pleased with +hearing only that I am well.</p> +<p>Your friend H. walked with me this morning in the Loggios of Raffaelle, +and we went afterwards to the Capitol. Nothing delighted me more +in the whole treasury of sculptures, than a figure in alto relievo of +Endymion, reclined on the mountain’s brow: his head falls upon +his breast with an ease and gracefulness, of which the Greeks alone +had ever a true conception. Most of the chambers, if you recollect, +are filled with the elegant remains of Adrian’s collection. +The villa of that classic emperor at Tivoli, must have been the most +charming of structures. Having travelled into various and remote +parts of his empire, he assembled their most valuable ornaments on one +spot. Some of his apartments were filled with the mysterious images +and symbols of Egypt: others with Eastern tripods and strange Adriatic +vases. Though enraptured with St. Peter’s and the Vatican, +with the gardens and groves of pine, that surround this interesting +city, still I cannot help sighing after my native hills and copses, +which look (I know not how it happens) more like the haunts of Pan than +any I have seen in Italy. I eagerly anticipate the placid hours +we shall pass, perhaps next summer, on the wild range which belongs +to our sylvan deities. In their deep fastnesses I will hide myself +from the world, and never allow its glare to bicker through my foliage. +You will follow me, I trust, into retirement, and equally forget the +turmoils of mankind. What have we children of the good Sylvanus +to do with the miseries or triumphs of the savages that prowl about +London? Let us forget there exists such a city, and when reposing +amongst ivy and blossoms of bloom, imagine ourselves in the ancient +dominions of Saturn, and dream that we see him pass along with his rustic +attendants.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER XXVI</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>AUGSBURG, <i>January</i> 20<i>th</i>, 1781.</p> +<p>For these ten days past have I been traversing Lapland: winds whistling +in my ears, and cones showering down upon my head from the wilds of +pine through which our route conducted us. Often were we obliged +to travel by moonlight, and I leave you to imagine the awful aspect +of the Tyrol mountains buried in snow.</p> +<p>I scarcely ventured to utter an exclamation of surprise, though prompted +by some of the most striking scenes in nature, lest I should interrupt +the sacred silence that prevails, during winter, in these boundless +solitudes. The streams are frozen, and mankind petrified, for +aught I know to the contrary, since whole days have we journeyed on +without perceiving the slightest hint of their existence.</p> +<p>I never before felt the pleasure of discovering a smoke rising from +a cottage, or of hearing a heifer lowing in its stall; and could not +have supposed there was so much satisfaction in perceiving two or three +fur caps, with faces under them, peeping out of their concealments. +I wish you had been with me, exploring this savage region: wrapped up +in our bear-skins, we should have followed its secret avenues, and penetrated, +perhaps, into some enchanted cave lined with sables, where, like the +heroes of northern romances, we should have been waited upon by dwarfs, +and sung drowsily to repose. I think it no bad scheme to sleep +away five or six years to come, since every hour affairs are growing +more and more turbulent. Well, let them! provided we may enjoy, +in security, the shades of our thickets.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>ADDITIONAL LETTERS</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>[The following Letters, written in a second Excursion, which was +interrupted by a dangerous illness, are added on account of their affinity +to some of the preceding.]</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER I</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>COLOGNE, <i>May</i> 28<i>th</i>, 1782.</p> +<p>This is the first day of summer; the oak leaves expand, the roses +blow, butterflies are about, and I have spirits enough to write to you. +We have had clouded skies this fortnight past, and roads like the Slough +of Despond. Last Wednesday we were benighted on a dismal plain, +apparently boundless. The moon cast a sickly gleam, and now and +then a blue meteor glided along the morass which lay before us.</p> +<p>After much difficulty we gained an avenue, and in an hour’s +time discovered something like a gateway, shaded by crooked elms and +crowned by a cluster of turrets. Here we paused and knocked; no +one answered. We repeated our knocks; the stout oaken gate returned +a hollow sound; the horses coughed, their riders blew their horns. +At length the bars fell, and we entered - by what means I am ignorant, +for no human being appeared.</p> +<p>A labyrinth of narrow winding alleys, dark as the vaults of a cathedral, +opened to our view. We kept wandering along, at least twenty minutes, +between lofty mansions with grated windows, and strange galleries, projecting +one over another, from which depended innumerable uncouth figures and +crosses, in iron-work, swinging to and fro with the wind. At the +end of this gloomy maze we found a long street, not fifteen feet wide, +I am certain; the houses still loftier than those in the alleys, the +windows thicker barred, and the gibbets (for I know not what else to +call them) more frequent. Here and there we saw lights glimmering +in the highest stories, and arches on the right and left, which seemed +to lead into retired courts and deeper darkness.</p> +<p>Along one of these recesses we were jumbled, over such pavement as +I hope you may never tread upon; and, after parading round it, went +out at the same arch whence we came in. This procession seemed +at first very mystical, but it was too soon accounted for by our postillions, +who confessed they had lost their way. A council was held amongst +them in form, and then we struck into another labyrinth of hideous edifices, +habitations I will not venture to call them, as not a creature stirred; +though the rumbling of our carriages was echoed by all the vaults and +arches.</p> +<p>Towards midnight we rested a few minutes, and a head poking out of +a casement directed us to the hotel of Der Heilige Geist, where an apartment, +thirty feet square, was prepared for our reception.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER II</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>INSPRUCK, <i>June</i> 4<i>th.</i></p> +<p>No sooner had we passed Fuezen than we entered the Tyrol, and the +country of wonders. Those lofty peaks, those steeps of wood I +delight in, lay before us. Innumerable clear springs gush out +on every side, overhung by luxuriant shrubs in blossom. The day +was mild, though overcast, and a soft blue vapour rested upon the hills, +above which rise mountains that bear plains of snow into the clouds.</p> +<p>At night we lay at Nasariet, a village buried amongst savage promontories. +The next morning we advanced, in bright sunshine, into smooth lawns +on the slopes of mountains, scattered over with larches, whose delicate +foliage formed a light green veil to the azure sky. Flights of +birds were merrily travelling from spray to spray. I ran delighted +into this world of boughs, whilst C. sat down to draw the huts which +are scattered about for the shelter of herds, and discover themselves +amongst the groves in the most picturesque manner.</p> +<p>These little edifices are uncommonly neat, and excite those ideas +of pastoral life to which I am so fondly attached. The turf from +whence they rise is enamelled, in the strict sense of the word, with +flowers. A sort of bluebell predominated, brighter than ultramarine; +here and there auriculas looked out of the moss, and I often reposed +upon tufts of ranunculus. Bushes of phillerea were very frequent, +the sun shining full on their glossy leaves. An hour passed away +swiftly in these pleasant groves, where I lay supine under a lofty fir, +a tower of leaves and branches.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER III</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>PADUA, <i>June</i> 14<i>th.</i></p> +<p>Once more, said I to myself, I shall have the delight of beholding +Venice; so got into an open chaise, the strangest curricle that ever +man was jolted in, and drove furiously along the causeways by the Brenta, +into whose deep waters it is a mercy, methinks, I was not precipitated. +Fiesso, the Dolo, the Mira, with all their gardens, statues, and palaces, +seemed flying after each other, so rapid was our motion.</p> +<p>After a few hours’ confinement between close steeps, the scene +opened to the wide shore of Fusina. I looked up (for I had scarcely +time to look before) and beheld a troubled sky, shot with vivid red, +the Lagunes tinted like the opal, and the islands of a glowing flame-colour. +The lofty mountains of the distant continent appeared of a deep melancholy +grey, and innumerable gondolas were passing to and fro in all their +blackness. The sun, after a long struggle, was swallowed up in +the tempestuous clouds.</p> +<p>In an hour we drew near to Venice, and saw its world of domes rising +out of the waters. A fresh breeze bore the toll of innumerable +bells by my ear. Sadness came over me as I entered the great canal, +and recognised (the scene of many a strange adventure) those solemn +palaces, with their lofty arcades and gloomy arches, beneath which I +had so often sat.</p> +<p>The Venetians being mostly at their villas on the Brenta, the town +appeared deserted. I visited, however, all my old haunts in the +Place of St. Mark, ran up the Campanile, and rowed backwards and forwards, +opposite the Ducal Palace, by moonlight. They are building a spacious +quay, near the street of the Sclavonians, fronting the island of San +Giorgio Maggiore, where I remained alone at least an hour, following +the wanderings of the moon amongst mountainous clouds, and listening +to the waters dashing against marble steps.</p> +<p>I closed my evening at my friend M. de R.’s, and sung over +the airs I composed in the dawn of our acquaintance.</p> +<p>Next morning the wind was uncommonly violent for the mild season +of June, and the canals much agitated; but I was determined to visit +the Lido once more, and bathe on my accustomed beach. The pines +in the garden of the Carthusians were nodding as I passed by in my gondola, +which was very poetically buffeted by the waves.</p> +<p>Traversing the desert of locusts, I hailed the Adriatic, and plunged +into its bosom. The sea, delightfully cool, refreshed me to such +a degree, that, upon my return to Venice, I found myself able to thread +its labyrinths of streets, canals, and alleys, in search of amber and +Oriental curiosities. The variety of exotic merchandize, the perfume +of coffee, the shade of awnings, and the sight of Greeks and Asiatics +sitting crossed-legged under them, made me think myself in the bazaars +of Constantinople.</p> +<p>’Tis certain my beloved town of Venice ever recalls a series +of Eastern ideas and adventures. I cannot help thinking St. Mark’s +a mosque, and the neighbouring palace some vast seraglio, full of arabesque +saloons, embroidered sofas, and voluptuous Circassians.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER IV</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>PADUA, <i>June</i> 19<i>th.</i></p> +<p>The morning was delightful, and St. Anthony’s bells in full +chime. A shower which had fallen in the night rendered the air +so cool and grateful, that Mad. de R. and myself determined to seize +the opportunity and go to Mirabello, a country house, which Algarotti +had inhabited, situate amongst the Euganean hills, eight or nine miles +from Padua.</p> +<p>Our road lay between poplar alleys and fields of yellow corn, overhung +by garlands of vine, most beautifully green. I soon found myself +in the midst of my favourite hills, upon slopes covered with clover, +and shaded by cherry-trees. Bending down their boughs I gathered +the fruit, and grew cooler and happier every instant.</p> +<p>We dined very comfortably in a strange hall, where I pitched my pianoforte, +and sang the voluptuous airs of Bertoni’s Armida. That enchantress +might have raised her palace in this situation; and, had I been Rinaldo, +I certainly should not very soon have abandoned it.</p> +<p>After dinner we drank coffee under some branching lemons, which sprang +from a terrace, commanding a boundless scene of towers and villas; tall +cypresses and shrubby hillocks rising, like islands, out of a sea of +corn and vine.</p> +<p>Evening drawing on, and the breeze blowing fresh from the distant +Adriatic, I reclined on a slope, and turned my eyes anxiously towards +Venice; then upon some little fields hemmed in by chestnuts in blossom, +where the peasants were making their hay, and, from thence, to a mountain, +crowned by a circular grove of fir and cypress.</p> +<p>In the centre of these shades some monks have a comfortable nest; +perennial springs, a garden of delicious vegetables, and, I dare say, +a thousand luxuries besides, which the poor mortals below never dream +of.</p> +<p>Had it not been late, I should certainly have climbed up to the grove, +and asked admittance into its recesses; but having no mind to pass the +night in this eyrie, I contented myself with the distant prospect.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER V</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>ROME, <i>June</i> 29<i>th</i>.</p> +<p>It is needless for me to say I wish you with me: you know I do; you +know how delightfully we should ramble about Rome together. This +evening, instead of jiggeting along the Corso with the puppets in blue +and silver coats, and green and gold coaches, instead of bowing to Cardinal +this, and dotting my head to Abbé t’other, I strolled to +the Coliseo, found out my old haunts amongst its arches, and enjoyed +the pure transparent sky between groves of slender cypress. Then +bending my course to the Palatine Mount, I passed under the Arch of +Titus, and gained the Capitol, which was quite deserted, the world, +thank Heaven, being all slip-slopping in coffee-houses, or staring at +a few painted boards patched up before the Colonna palace, where, by +the by, to-night is a grand <i>rinfresco</i> for all the dolls and doll-fanciers +of Rome. I heard their buzz at a distance; that was enough for +me!</p> +<p>Soothed by the rippling of waters, I descended the Capitoline stairs, +and leaned several minutes against one of the Egyptian lionesses. +This animal has no knack at oracles, or else it would have murmured +out to me the situation of that secret cave, where the wolf suckled +Romulus and his brother.</p> +<p>About nine, I returned home, and am now writing to you like a prophet +on the housetop. Behind me rustle the thickets of Villa Medici; +before, lies roof beyond roof and dome beyond dome: these are dimly +discovered; but don’t you see the great cupola of cupolas, twinkling +with illuminations? The town is real, I am certain; but, surely, +that structure of fire must be visionary.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER VI</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>ROME, <i>June</i> 30<i>th.</i></p> +<p>As soon as the sun declined I strolled into the Villa Medici; but +finding it haunted by fine pink and yellow people, nay, even by the +Spanish Ambassador, and several more dignified carcasses, I moved off +to the Negroni garden. There I found what my soul desired, thickets +of jasmine, and wild spots overgrown with bay; long alleys of cypress +totally neglected, and almost impassable through the luxuriance of the +vegetation; on every side antique fragments, vases, sarcophagi, and +altars sacred to the Manes, in deep, shady recesses, which I am certain +the Manes must love. The air was filled with the murmurs of water, +trickling down basins of porphyry, and losing itself amongst overgrown +weeds and grasses.</p> +<p>Above the wood and between its boughs appeared several domes, and +a strange lofty tower. I will not say they belong to St. Maria +Maggiore; no, they are fanes and porticos dedicated to Cybele, who delights +in sylvan situations. The forlorn air of this garden, with its +high and reverend shades, make me imagine it as old as the baths of +Dioclesian, which peep over one of its walls. Yes, I am persuaded +some consul or prætor dwelt here only fifty years ago. Would +to God, our souls might be transported to such solitary spots! where +we might glide along the dark alleys together, when bodies were gone +to bed. I discovered a little cave that would just suit us; celandine, +Venus’ hair, and a thousand delicate plants, growing downwards +from the cave; beneath lies a clear spring.</p> +<p>At the close of day, I repaired to the platform before the stately +porticos of the Lateran. There I sat, folded up in myself. +Some priests jarred the iron gates behind me. I looked over my +shoulder through the portals, into the portico. Night began to +fill it with darkness. Upon turning round, the sad waste of the +Campagna met my eyes, and I wished to go home, but had not the power. +A pressure, like that I have felt in horrid dreams, seemed to fix me +to the pavement.</p> +<p>I was thus in a manner forced to view the dreary scene, the long +line of aqueducts and lonesome towers. Perhaps the unwholesome +vapours, rising like blue mists from the plains, affected me. +I know not how it was; but I never experienced such strange, such chilling +terrors. About ten o’clock, thank God, the spell dissolved; +I found my limbs at liberty, and returned home.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>LETTER VII</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>NAPLES, <i>July</i> 8<i>th.</i></p> +<p>The sea-breezes restored me to life. I set the heat of midday +at defiance, and do not believe in the horrors of the sirocco. +Yesterday I passed at Portici, with Lady H. The morning, refreshing +and pleasant, invited us at an early hour into the open air. We +drove, in an uncovered chaise, to the royal Bosquetto: no other carriage +than Sir W.’s is allowed to enter its alleys. We breathed +a fresh air untainted by dust or garlic. Every now and then, amidst +wild bushes of ilex and myrtle, one finds a graceful antique statue, +sometimes a fountain, and often a rude knoll, where the rabbits sit +undisturbed, contemplating the blue glittering bay; at least, I should +do so, if I were a rabbit.</p> +<p>The walls of this shady inclosure are lined with Peruvian aloes, +whose white blossoms, scented like those of the magnolia, form the most +magnificent clusters. They are plants to salute respectfully as +one passes by, such is their size and dignity. In the midst of +the thickets stands the King’s Pagliaro, surrounded by gardens +with hedges of luxuriant jasmine, whose branches are suffered to flaunt +as much as Nature pleases.</p> +<p>The morning sun darted his first rays on their flowers just as I +entered this pleasant spot. The hut looks as if erected in the +days of fairy pastoral life; its neatness is quite delightful. +Bright tiles compose the floor; straw, nicely platted, covers the walls. +In the middle of the room, you see a table spread with a beautiful Persian +carpet; at one end, four niches with mattresses of silk, where the King +and his favourites repose after dinner; at the other, a white marble +basin. Mount a little staircase, and you find yourself in another +apartment, formed by the roof, which being entirely composed of glistening +straw, casts that comfortable yellow glow I admire. From the windows +you look into the garden, not flourished with parterres, but divided +into plats of fragrant herbs and flowers, with here and there a little +marble table, or basin of the purest water.</p> +<p>These sequestered inclosures are cultivated with the greatest care, +and so frequently watered, that I observed lettuces, and a variety of +other vegetables, as fresh as in our green England.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<h2>AN EXCURSION TO THE GRAND CHARTREUSE IN THE YEAR 1778</h2> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>The Grand Chartreuse has exceeded my expectations; it is more wonderfully +wild than I can describe, or even you can imagine. It has possessed +me to such a degree that at present I can neither think, speak, nor +write upon any other subject.</p> +<p><i>June</i> 5<i>th</i>. - I left Geneva, and after passing through +a succession of valleys between innumerable mountains, and after crossing +a variety of picturesque bridges, thrown over the streams which water +them, arrived at Aix, in Savoy, famous for its baths, which, as disagreeable +things are generally the most salutary, ought doubtless to be of the +greatest efficacy; for more uninviting objects one seldom meets with.</p> +<p>Advancing beneath a little eminence, partly rock, partly wall, we +discovered the principal bath, filled with a blue reeking water, whose +very steam is sufficient to seethe one without further assistance.</p> +<p>Scarce had we stood looking on it a minute, before down dashed three +or four dirty boys, as copper-coloured as the natives of Bengal; who +by splashing us all over, and swimming about a <i>la crapaudine</i>, +convinced us that it was not their fault, if we would not have companions +in the delights of bathing. I soon hurried away from this salubrious +cauldron, and stepping into a little chapel hard by, where they were +singing vespers, prayed heartily to the Virgin, that I might never need +the assistance of those wonder-working waters over which she presides. +As there was but little company in the town, and little amusement, I +went to bed at nine, and rose at four the next morning, that I might +reach before sunset the celebrated road, which Charles Emanuel had cut +through a rocky mountain. My plan succeeded, and after dining +at Chambery (a place scarce worth speaking of to you), and passing by +a cataract that throws itself from a lofty steep, I began to discover +a beautiful woody vale, terminated on one side by the hallowed cliffs +of the Grand Chartreuse, and on the other by the mountain which Charles +Emanuel had perforated in so extraordinary a manner. The sun was +just sinking in a brilliant cloud, which seemed to repose on a swelling +hill, covered with cattle, when we quitted the cheerful valley, and +began to descend between two ridges of precipices, that at some distance +had the appearance of towering ramparts. Pursuing our route, we +found ourselves in a deep cleft, surrounded by caverns, echoing with +a thousand rills which trickle down their sides, and mingling their +murmurs with the rattling of our wheels and the steps of our horses, +infinitely repeated and multiplied, formed, altogether, the strangest +combination of sounds that ever reached my ears. The road itself +is admirably cut, and hewn with such neatness that, were it not for +the savage and desolate air of its environs, I should have imagined +myself approaching some grand castle or considerable city. Toward +the summits of the precipices, that in some places rise to a majestic +elevation (the two sides here and there nearly meeting in an arch), +hang light woods of glossy green, which, being agitated by a gentle +wind, cast a moving shadow over the cleft beneath, and, at a little +distance, gave our road the appearance of a chequered pavement.</p> +<p>Having wound through the bosom of the mountain for some time, I was +struck by the unexpected appearance of a grand edifice, resembling a +vast portal, supported by Doric pilasters, and crowned with an ornamented +pediment. Upon my nearer approach I found a smooth tablet filling +up the space I had allotted for an entrance, on which was engraven a +pompous Latin inscription, setting forth with what incredible labour +and perseverance his Majesty, Charles Emanuel the Second of Sardinia, +Cyprus, and Jerusalem, King, had cut this road through the mountain; +which great enterprise, though unattempted by the Romans, and despaired +of by other nations, was executed under his auspices. I very sincerely +wished him joy, and, as the evening was growing rather cool, was not +sorry to perceive, through an opening in the rocks, a wide-extended +plain, interspersed with meadows, embosomed by woods, in which I distinguished +Les Echelles, a village, where we were to lie, with its chimneys smoking, +under the base of one of the Carthusian mountains, round which had gathered +a concourse of red and greyish clouds.</p> +<p>The twilight was beginning to prevail when we reached our inn, and +very glad I was to leave it at the first dawn of the next day. +We were now obliged to abandon our coach; and taking horse, proceeded +towards the mountains, which, with the valleys between them, form what +is called the Desert of the Carthusians.</p> +<p>In an hour’s time we were drawing near, and could discern the +opening of a narrow valley overhung by shaggy precipices, above which +rose lofty peaks, covered to their very summits with wood. We +could now distinguish the roar of torrents, and a confusion of strange +sounds, issuing from dark forests of pine. I confess at this moment +I was somewhat startled. I experienced some disagreeable sensations, +and it was not without a degree of unwillingness that I left the gay +pastures and enlivening sunshine, to throw myself into this gloomy and +disturbed region. How dreadful, thought I, must be the despair +of those who enter it never to return!</p> +<p>But after the first impression was worn away, all my curiosity redoubled; +and desiring our guide to put forward with greater speed, we made such +good haste, that the meadows and cottages of the plain were soon left +far behind, and we found ourselves on the banks of the torrent, whose +agitation answered the ideas which its sounds had inspired. Into +the midst of these troubled waters we were obliged to plunge with our +horses, and, when landed on the opposite shore, were by no means displeased +to have passed them.</p> +<p>We had now closed with the forests, over which the impending rocks +diffused an additional gloom. The day grew obscured by clouds, +and the sun no longer enlightened the distant plains, when we began +to ascend towards the entrance of the desert, marked by two pinnacles +of rock far above us, beyond which a melancholy twilight prevailed. +Every moment we approached nearer and nearer to the sounds which had +alarmed us; and, suddenly emerging from the woods, we discovered several +mills and forges, with many complicated machines of iron, hanging over +the torrent, that threw itself headlong from a cleft in the precipices; +on one side of which I perceived our road winding along, till it was +stopped by a venerable gateway. A rock above one of the forges +was hollowed into the shape of a round tower, of no great size, but +resembling very much an altar in figure; and, what added greatly to +the grandeur of the object, was a livid flame continually palpitating +upon it, which the gloom of the valley rendered perfectly discernible.</p> +<p>The road, at a small distance from this remarkable scene, was become +so narrow, that, had my horse started, I should have been but too well +acquainted with the torrent that raged beneath; dismounting, therefore, +I walked towards the edge of the great fall, and there, leaning on a +fragment of cliff, looked down into the foaming gulph, where the waters +were hurled along over broken pines, pointed rocks, and stakes of iron. +Then, lifting up my eyes, I took in the vast extent of the forests, +frowning on the brows of the mountains.</p> +<p>It was here first I felt myself seized by the genius of the place, +and penetrated with veneration of its religious gloom; and, I believe, +uttered many extravagant exclamations; but, such was the dashing of +the wheels, and the rushing of the waters at the bottom of the forges, +that what I said was luckily undistinguishable.</p> +<p>I was not yet, however, within the consecrated inclosure, and therefore +not perfectly contented; so, leaving my fragment, I paced in silence +up the path which led to the great portal. When we arrived before +it, I rested a moment, and leaning against the stout oaken gate, which +closed up the entrance to this unknown region, felt at my heart a certain +awe, that brought to my mind the sacred terror of those, in ancient +days, going to be admitted into the Eleusinian mysteries.</p> +<p>My guide gave two knocks; after a solemn pause, the gate was slowly +opened, and all our horses having passed through it, was again carefully +closed.</p> +<p>I now found myself in a narrow dell, surrounded on every side by +peaks of the mountains, rising almost beyond my sight, and shelving +downwards till their bases were hidden by the foam and spray of the +water, over which hung a thousand withered and distorted trees. +The rocks seemed crowding upon me, and, by their particular situation, +threatened to obstruct every ray of light; but, notwithstanding the +menacing appearance of the prospect, I still kept following my guide, +up a craggy ascent, partly hewn through a rock, and bordered by the +trunks of ancient fir-trees, which formed a fantastic barrier, till +we came to a dreary and exposed promontory, impending directly over +the dell.</p> +<p>The woods are here clouded with darkness, and the torrents, rushing +with additional violence, are lost in the gloom of the caverns below; +every object, as I looked downwards from my path, that hung midway between +the base and the summit of the cliff, was horrid and woeful. The +channel of the torrent sunk deep amidst frightful crags, and the pale +willows and wreathed roots spreading over it, answered my ideas of those +dismal abodes, where, according to the druidical mythology, the ghosts +of conquered warriors were bound. I shivered whilst I was regarding +these regions of desolation, and, quickly lifting up my eyes to vary +the scene, I perceived a range of whitish cliffs, glistening with the +light of the sun, to emerge from these melancholy forests.</p> +<p>On a fragment that projected over the chasm, and concealed for a +moment its terrors, I saw a cross, on which was written VIA COELI. +The cliffs being the heaven to which I now aspired, we deserted the +edge of the precipice, and ascending, came to a retired nook of the +rocks, in which several copious rills had worn irregular grottoes. +Here we reposed an instant, and were enlivened with a few sunbeams, +piercing the thickets and gilding the waters that bubbled from the rock, +over which hung another cross, inscribed with this short sentence, which +the situation rendered wonderfully pathetic, O SPES UNICA! the fervent +exclamation of some wretch disgusted with the world, whose only consolation +was found in this retirement.</p> +<p>We quitted this solitary cross to enter a thick forest of beech-trees, +that screened in some measure the precipices on which they grew, catching, +however, every instant terrifying glimpses of the torrent below. +Streams gushed from every crevice in the cliffs, and falling over the +mossy roots and branches of the beech, hastened to join the great torrent, +athwart which I every now and then remarked certain tottering bridges, +and sometimes could distinguish a Carthusian crossing over to his hermitage, +that just peeped above the woody labyrinths on the opposite shore.</p> +<p>Whilst I was proceeding amongst the innumerable trunks of the beech +trees, my guide pointed out to me a peak, rising above the others, which +he called the Throne of Moses. If that prophet had received his +revelations in this desert, no voice need have declared it holy ground, +for every part of it is stamped with such a sublimity of character as +would alone be sufficient to impress the idea.</p> +<p>Having left these woods behind, and crossing a bridge of many lofty +arches, I shuddered once more at the impetuosity of the torrent; and, +mounting still higher, came at length to a kind of platform before two +cliffs, joined by an arch of rock, under which we were to pursue our +road. Below we beheld again innumerable streams, turbulently precipitating +themselves from the woods, and lashing the base of the mountains, mossed +over with a dark sea-green.</p> +<p>In this deep hollow such mists and vapours prevailed as hindered +my prying into its recesses; besides, such was the dampness of the air, +that I hastened gladly from its neighbourhood, and passing under the +second portal, beheld with pleasure the sunbeams gilding the Throne +of Moses.</p> +<p>It was now about ten o’clock, and my guide assured me I should +soon discover the convent. Upon this information I took new courage, +and continued my route on the edge of the rocks, till we struck into +another gloomy grove. After turning about it for some time, we +entered again into the glare of daylight, and saw a green valley skirted +by ridges of cliffs and sweeps of wood before us. Towards the +farther end of this inclosure, on a gentle acclivity, rose the revered +turrets of the Carthusians, which extend in a long line on the brow +of the hill; beyond them a woody amphitheatre majestically presents +itself, terminated by spires of rock and promontories lost amongst the +clouds.</p> +<p>The roar of the torrent was now but faintly distinguishable, and +all the scenes of horror and confusion I had passed, were succeeded +by a sacred and profound calm. I traversed the valley with a thousand +sensations I despair of describing, and stood before the gate of the +convent with as much awe as some novice or candidate, newly arrived, +to solicit the holy retirement of the order.</p> +<p>As admittance is more readily granted to the English than to almost +any other nation, it was not long before the gates opened, and whilst +the porter ordered our horses to the stable, we entered a court watered +by two fountains and built round with lofty edifices, characterized +by a noble simplicity.</p> +<p>The interior portal, opening, discovered an arched aisle, extending +till the perspective nearly met, along which windows, but scantily distributed +between the pilasters, admitted a pale solemn light, just sufficient +to distinguish the objects with a picturesque uncertainty. We +had scarcely set our feet on the pavement when the monks began to issue +from an arch, about half way down, and passing in a long succession +from their chapel, bowed reverently with much humility and meekness, +and dispersed in silence, leaving one of their body alone in the aisle.</p> +<p>The Father Coadjutor (for he only remained) advanced towards us with +great courtesy, and welcomed us in a manner which gave me far more pleasure +than all the frivolous salutations and affected greetings so common +in the world beneath. After asking us a few indifferent questions, +he called one of the lay brothers, who live in the convent under less +severe restrictions than the fathers whom they serve, and ordering him +to prepare our apartment, conducted us to a large square hall with casement +windows, and, what was more comfortable, an enormous chimney, whose +hospitable hearth blazed with a fire of dry aromatic fir, on each side +of which were two doors that communicated with the neat little cells +destined for our bedchambers.</p> +<p>Whilst he was placing us round the fire, a ceremony by no means unimportant +in the cold climate of these upper regions, a bell rang which summoned +him to prayers. After charging the lay brother to set before us +the best fare their desert afforded, he retired, and left us at full +liberty to examine our chambers.</p> +<p>The weather lowered, and the casements permitted very little light +to enter the apartment: but on the other side it was amply enlivened +by the gleams of the fire, that spread all over a certain comfortable +air, which even sunshine but rarely diffuses. Whilst the showers +descended with great violence, the lay brother and another of his companions +were placing an oval table, very neatly carved and covered with the +finest linen, in the middle of the hall; and, before we had examined +a number of portraits which were hung in all the panels of the wainscot, +they called us to a dinner widely different from what might have been +expected in so dreary a situation. The best fish, the most exquisite +fruits, and a variety of dishes, excellent without the assistance of +meat, were served up with an order and arrangement that showed it was +not the first time they had entertained in the noblest manner. +But I was not more struck with the delicacy of the entertainment, than +with the extreme cleanness and English-like neatness of the whole apartment +and its furniture. A marble fountain, particularly, gave it a +very agreeable aid, and the water that fell from it into a porphyry +shell was remarkable for its clearness and purity. Our attendant +friar was helping us to some Burgundy, which we pronounced of very respectable +antiquity, when the Coadjutor returned, accompanied by two other fathers, +the Secretary and Procurator, whom he presented to us. You would +have been both charmed and surprised with the cheerful resignation that +appeared in their countenances, and with the easy turn of their conversation.</p> +<p>The Coadjutor, though equally kind, was as yet more reserved: his +countenance, however, spoke for him without the aid of words, and there +was in his manner a mixture of dignity and humility, which could not +fail to interest. There were moments when the recollection of +some past event seemed to shade his countenance with a melancholy that +rendered it still more affecting. I should suspect he formerly +possessed a great share of natural vivacity (something of it being still, +indeed, apparent in his more unguarded moments); but this spirit is +almost entirely subdued by the penitence and mortification of the order.</p> +<p>The secretary displayed a very considerable share of knowledge in +the political state of Europe, furnished probably by the extensive correspondence +these fathers preserve with the three hundred and sixty subordinate +convents, dispersed throughout all those countries where the court of +Rome still maintains its influence.</p> +<p>In the course of our conversation they asked me innumerable questions +about England, where formerly, they said, many monasteries had belonged +to their order; and principally that of W., which they had learnt to +be now in my possession.</p> +<p>The Secretary, almost with tears in his eyes, beseeched me to revere +these consecrated edifices, and to preserve their remains, for the sake +of St. Hugo, their canonized Prior. I replied greatly to his satisfaction, +and then declaimed so much in favour of Saint Bruno, and the holy prior +of Witham, that the good fathers grew exceedingly delighted with the +conversation, and made me promise to remain some days with them. +I readily complied with their request, and, continuing in the same strain, +that had so agreeably affected their ears, was soon presented with the +works of Saint Bruno, whom I so zealously admired.</p> +<p>After we had sat extolling them, and talking upon much the same sort +of subjects for about an hour, the Coadjutor proposed a walk amongst +the cloisters and galleries, as the weather would not admit of any longer +excursion. He leading the way, we ascended a flight of steps, +which brought us to a gallery, on each side of which a vast number of +pictures, representing the dependent convents, were ranged; for I was +now in the capital of the order, where the General resides, and from +whence he issues forth his commands to his numerous subjects; who depute +the superiors of their respective convents, whether situated in the +wilds of Calabria, the forests of Poland, or in the remotest districts +of Portugal and Spain, to assist at the grand chapter, held annually +under him, a week or two after Easter.</p> +<p>This reverend father Dom Biclét died about ten days before +our arrival: a week ago they elected the Pere Robinét prior of +the Carthusian convent at Paris in his room, and two fathers were now +on their route to apprise him of their choice, and to salute him General +of the Carthusians. During this interregnum the Coadjutor holds +the first rank in the temporal, and the Grand Vicaire in the spiritual, +affairs of the order; both of which are very extensive.</p> +<p>If I may judge from the representations of the different convents, +which adorn this gallery, there are many highly worthy of notice, for +the singularity of their situations, and the wild beauties of the landscapes +which surround them. The Venetian Chartreuse, placed in a woody +island, and that of Rome, rising from amongst groups of majestic ruins, +struck me as peculiarly pleasing. Views of the English monasteries +hung formerly in such a gallery, but had been destroyed by fire, together +with the old convent. The list only remains, with but a very few +written particulars concerning them.</p> +<p>Having amused myself for some time with the pictures, and the descriptions +the Coadjutor gave me of them, we quitted the gallery and entered a +kind of chapel, in which were two altars with lamps burning before them, +on each side of a lofty portal. This opened into a grand coved +hall, adorned with historical paintings of St. Bruno’s life, and +the portraits of the Generals of the order, since the year of the great +founder’s death (1085) to the present time. Under these +portraits are the stalls for the Superiors, who assist at the grand +convocation. In front appears the General’s throne; above, +hangs a representation of the canonized Bruno, crowned with stars.</p> +<p>Were I, after walking along the dim cloisters, and passing through +the antechapel, faintly illuminated by a solitary lamp, suddenly to +enter this hall at midnight, when the convocation is assembled, and +the synod of venerable fathers, all in solemn order, surrounding the +successor of Bruno, it would be a long while, I believe, before I could +recover from the surprise of so august a spectacle. It must indeed +be a very imposing sight: the gravity they preserve on these occasions, +their venerable age (for Superiors cannot be chosen young), and the +figures of their deceased Generals, dimly discovered above, may surely +be allowed to awe even an heretical spectator into a momentary respect +for the order. For my own part, I must confess, that the hall, +though divested of all this accompaniment, filled me with a veneration +I scarcely knew how to account for; perhaps the portraits inspired it. +They were all well executed, and mostly in attitudes of adoration. +The form of Bruno was almost lost in the splendour of the stars which +hovered over him. I could in some moments fancy myself capable +of plunging into the horror of a desert, and foregoing all the vanities +and delights of the world, to secure my memory so sublime a consecration.</p> +<p>The Coadjutor seemed charmed with the respect with which I looked +round on these holy objects; and if the hour of vespers had not been +drawing near, we should have spent more time in the contemplation of +Bruno’s miracles, portrayed on the lower panels of the hall. +We left that room to enter a winding passage (lighted by windows in +the roof), that brought us to a cloister six hundred feet in length, +from which branched off two others, joining a fourth of the same most +extraordinary dimensions. Vast ranges of slender pillars extend +round the different courts of the edifice, many of which are thrown +into gardens belonging to particular cells.</p> +<p>We entered one of them: its inhabitant received us with much civility, +walked before us through a little corridor that looked on his garden, +showed us his narrow dwelling, and, having obtained leave of the Coadjutor +to speak, gave us his benediction, and beheld us depart with concern. +Nature has given this poor monk very considerable talents for painting. +He has drawn the portrait of the late General, in a manner that discovers +great facility of execution; but he is not allowed to exercise his pencil +on any other subject, lest he should be amused; and amusement in this +severe order is a crime. He had so subdued, so mortified an appearance, +that I was not sorry to hear the bell, which summoned the Coadjutor +to prayers, and prevented my entering any more of the cells. We +continued straying from cloister to cloister, and wandering along the +winding passages and intricate galleries of this immense edifice, whilst +the Coadjutor was assisting at vespers.</p> +<p>In every part of the structure reigned the most death-like calm: +no sound reached my ears but the “minute drops from off the eaves.” +I sat down in a niche of the cloister, and fell into a profound reverie, +from which I was recalled by the return of our conductor; who, I believe, +was almost tempted to imagine, from the cast of my countenance, that +I was deliberating whether I should not remain with them for ever.</p> +<p>But I soon roused myself, and testified some impatience to see the +great chapel, at which we at length arrived, after traversing another +labyrinth of cloisters. The gallery immediately before its entrance +appeared quite gay, in comparison with the others I had passed, and +owes its cheerfulness to a large window (ornamented with slabs of polished +marble), that admits the view of a lovely wood. Being neatly glazed, +and free from paintings or Gothic ornaments, it allows a full blaze +of light to dart on the chapel door; which is also adorned with marble, +in a plain but noble style of architecture.</p> +<p>The father sacristan stood ready on the steps of the portal to grant +us admittance; and, throwing open the valves, we entered the chapel +and were struck by the justness of its proportions, the simple majesty +of the arched roof, and the mild solemn light, equally diffused over +every part of the edifice. No tawdry ornaments, no glaring pictures, +disgraced the sanctity of the place. The high altar, standing +distinct from the walls, which were hung with a rich velvet, was the +only object on which many ornaments were lavished, and even there the +elegance of the workmanship concealed the glare of the materials, which +were silver, solid gold, and the most costly gems. It being Whit-Sunday, +this altar was covered with statues of gold, shrines, and candelabra +of the stateliest shape and most delicate execution. Four of the +latter, of a gigantic size, were placed on the steps; which, together +with part of the inlaid floor within the choir, were spread with beautiful +carpets.</p> +<p>The illumination of so many tapers striking on the shrines, censers, +and pillars of polished jasper, sustaining the canopy of the altar, +produced a wonderful effect; and, as the rest of the chapel was visible +only by the faint external light admitted from above, the splendour +and dignity of the altar was enhanced by contrast. I retired a +moment from it, and seating myself in one of the furthermost stalls +of the choir, looked towards it, and fancied it had risen like an exhalation.</p> +<p>Here I remained several minutes breathing nothing but incense, and +should not have quitted my station soon, had I not been apprehensive +of disturbing the devotions of two aged fathers who had just entered, +and were prostrating themselves before the steps of the altar. +These venerable figures added greatly to the solemnity of the scene; +which as the day declined increased every moment in splendour; for the +sparkling of several lamps of chased silver that hung from the roofs, +and the gleaming of nine huge tapers which I had not before noticed, +began to be visible just as I left the chapel.</p> +<p>Passing through the sacristy, where lay several piles of rich embroidered +vestments, purposely displayed for our inspection, we regained the cloister +which led to our apartment, where the supper was ready prepared. +We had scarcely finished it, when the Coadjutor, and the fathers who +had accompanied us before, returned, and ranging themselves round the +fire, resumed the conversation about St. Bruno.</p> +<p>Finding me very piously disposed by the wonders I had seen in the +day to listen to things of a miraculous nature, they began to relate +the inspirations they had received from him, and his mysterious apparitions. +I was all attention, respect, and credulity. The old Secretary +worked himself up to such a pitch of enthusiasm, that I am very much +inclined to imagine he believed, in these moments, all the marvellous +events he related. The Coadjutor being less violent in his pretensions +to St. Bruno’s modern miracles, contented himself with enumerating +the noble works he had done in the days of his fathers, and in the old +time before them.</p> +<p>It grew rather late before my kind hosts had finished their narrations, +and I was not sorry, after all the exercise I had taken, to return to +my cell, where everything invited to repose. I was charmed with +the neatness and oddity of my little apartment; its cabin-like bed, +oratory, and ebony crucifix; in short, everything it contained; not +forgetting the aromatic odour of the pine, with which it was roofed, +floored, and wainscoted. The night was luckily dark. Had +the moon appeared, I could not have prevailed upon myself to have quitted +her till very late; but, as it happened, I crept into my cabin, and +was by “whispering winds soon lulled asleep.”</p> +<p>Eight o’clock struck next morning before I awoke; when, to +my great sorrow, I found the peaks, which rose above the convent, veiled +in vapours, and the rain descending with violence.</p> +<p>After we had breakfasted by the light of our fire (for the casements +admitted but a very feeble gleam), I sat down to the works of St. Bruno; +of all medleys the strangest. Allegories without end: a theologico-natural +history of birds, beasts, and fishes: several chapters on paradise; +the delights of solitude; the glory of Solomon’s temple; the new +Jerusalem; and numberless other wonderful subjects, full of enthusiasm +and superstition.</p> +<p>Saint Bruno was certainly a mighty genius; I admire the motives which +drew him to this desert; but perhaps before we come to that part of +the story, you will like to know what preceded it. My Saint (for +Bruno has succeeded Thomas of Canterbury) was of noble descent, and +possessed considerable wealth. He was not less remarkable for +the qualities of his mind, and his talents gained him the degree of +Master of the great sciences in the University of Rheims; here he contracted +a friendship with Odo, afterwards Urban the Second. Being always +poetic, singular, and visionary, he soon grew disgusted with the world, +and began early in life to sigh after retirement. His residence +at Grenoble, where he was invited by Hugo, its bishop, determined him +to the monastic state.</p> +<p>This venerable prelate imparted to him a vision in which he seemed +to behold the desert and mountain beyond his city visible in the dead +of night by the streaming of seven lucid stars that hung directly over +them. Whilst he was ardently gazing at this wonder, a still voice +was heard declaring it the future abode of Bruno - by him to be consecrated +as a retirement for holy men desirous of holding converse with their +God. No shepherd’s pipe was to be heard within these precincts; +no huntsman’s profane feet to tread these silent regions, which +were to be dedicated solely to their Creator; no woman was to ascend +this mountain, nor violate by her allurements the sacred repose of its +inhabitants.</p> +<p>Such were the first institutions of the order as the inspired Bishop +of Grenoble delivered them to Bruno, who selecting a few persons that, +like himself, contemned the splendours of the world and the charms of +society, repaired with them to this spot; and, in the darkest parts +of the forests which shade the most gloomy recesses of the mountains, +founded the first convent of Carthusians, long since destroyed.</p> +<p>Several years passed away, whilst Bruno was employed in actions of +the most exalted piety; and, the fame of his exemplary conduct reaching +Rome (where his friend had been lately invested with the papal tiara), +the whole conclave was desirous of seeing him, and entreated Urban to +invite him to Rome. The request of Christ’s vicegerent was +not to be refused; and Bruno quitted his beloved solitude, leaving some +of his disciples behind, who propagated his doctrines, and tended zealously +the infant order.</p> +<p>The pomp of the Roman court soon disgusted the rigid Bruno, who had +weaned himself entirely from worldly affections.</p> +<p>Being wholly intent on futurity, the bustle and tumults of a busy +metropolis became so irksome that he supplicated Urban for leave to +retire; and, having obtained it, left Rome, and immediately seeking +the wilds of Calabria, there sequestered himself in a lonely hermitage, +calmly expecting his last moments. Many are the miracles which +he wrought and which his canonized bones have since effected: angels +(it is said), hovered round him in his departing hour, and bore him +on their wings to heaven. The different accounts of his translation +are almost endless; and as they are all nearly in the same style, it +will be needless to recite them.</p> +<p>I had scarcely finished taking extracts from the life and writings +of St. Bruno when the dinner appeared, consisting of everything most +delicate which a strict adherence to the rules of meagre could allow. +The good fathers returned as usual with the dessert, and served up an +admirable dish of miracles, well seasoned with the devil and prettily +garnished with angels and moonbeams. <a name="citation284"></a><a href="#footnote284">{284}</a></p> +<p>Our conversation was interrupted, very agreeably, by the sudden intrusion +of the sun, which, escaping from the clouds, shone in full splendour +above the highest peak of the mountains, and the vapours fleeting by +degrees discovered the woods in all the freshness of their verdure. +The pleasure I received from seeing this new creation rising to view +was very lively, and, as the fathers assured me the humidity of their +walks did not often continue longer than the showers, I left my hall.</p> +<p>Crossing the court, I hastened out of the gates, and running swiftly +along a winding path on the side of the meadow, bordered by the forests, +enjoyed the charms of the prospect, inhaled the perfume of the woodlands, +and now turning towards the summits of the precipices that encircled +this sacred inclosure, admired the glowing colours they borrowed from +the sun, contrasted by the dark hues of the forest. Now, casting +my eyes below, I suffered them to roam from valley to valley, and from +one stream (beset with tall pines and tufted beech trees) to another. +The purity of the air in these exalted regions, and the lightness of +my own spirits, almost seized me with the idea of treading in that element.</p> +<p>Not content with the distant beauties of the hanging rocks and falling +waters, I still kept running wildly along, with an eagerness and rapidity +that, to a sober spectator, would have given me the appearance of one +possessed, and with reason, for I was affected with the scene to a degree +I despair of expressing.</p> +<p>Whilst I was continuing my course, pursued by a thousand strange +ideas, a father, who was returning from some distant hermitage, stopped +my career, and made signs for me to repose myself on a bench erected +under a neighbouring shed; and, perceiving my agitation and disordered +looks, fancied, I believe, that one of the bears that lurk near the +snows of the mountains had alarmed me by his sudden appearance.</p> +<p>The good old man, expressing by his gestures that he wished me to +recover myself in quiet on the bench, hastened, with as much alacrity +as his age permitted, to a cottage adjoining the shed, and returning +in a few moments, presented me some water in a wooden bowl, into which +he let fall several drops of an elixir composed of innumerable herbs, +and having performed this deed of charity, signified to me by a look, +in which benevolence, compassion, and perhaps some little remains of +curiosity were strongly painted, how sorry he was to be restrained by +his vow of silence from inquiring into the cause of my agitation, and +giving me farther assistance. I answered also by signs, on purpose +to carry on the adventure, and suffered him to depart with all his conjectures +unsatisfied.</p> +<p>No sooner had I lost sight of the benevolent hermit, than I started +up, and pursued my path with my former agility, till I came to the edge +of a woody dell, that divided the meadow on which I was running from +the opposite promontory. Here I paused, and looking up at the +cliffs, now but faintly illumined by the sun, which had been some time +sinking on our narrow horizon, reflected that it would be madness to +bewilder myself, at so late an hour, in the mazes of the forest. +Being thus determined, I abandoned with regret the idea of penetrating +into the lovely region before me, and contented myself for some moments +with marking the pale tints of the evening gradually overspreading the +cliffs, so lately flushed with the gleams of the setting sun.</p> +<p>But my eyes were soon diverted from contemplating these objects by +a red light streaming over the northern sky, which attracted my notice, +as I sat on the brow of a sloping hill, looking down a steep hollow +vale, surrounded by the forests, above which rose majestically the varied +peaks and promontories of the mountains.</p> +<p>The upland lawns, which hang at immense heights above the vale, next +caught my attention. I was gazing alternately at them and the +valley, when a long succession of light misty clouds, of strange fantastic +shapes, issuing from a narrow gully between the rocks, passed on, like +a solemn procession, over the hollow dale, midway between the stream +that watered it below and the summits of the cliffs on high.</p> +<p>The tranquillity of the region the verdure, of the lawn, environed +by girdles of flourishing wood, and the lowing of the distant herds, +filled me with the most pleasing sensations. But when I lifted +up my eyes to the towering cliffs, and beheld the northern sky streaming +with ruddy light, and the long succession of misty forms hovering over +the space beneath, they became sublime and awful. The dews which +began to descend, and the vapours which were rising from every dell, +reminded me of the lateness of the hour; and it was with great reluctance +that I turned from the scene which had so long engaged my contemplation, +and traversed slowly and silently the solitary meadows, over which I +had hurried with such eagerness an hour ago.</p> +<p>Hill appeared after hill, and hillock succeeded hillock, which I +had passed unnoticed before. Sometimes I imagined myself following +a different path from that which had brought me to the edge of the deep +valley; another moment, descending into the hollows between the hillocks +that concealed the distant prospects from my sight, I fancied I had +entirely mistaken my route, and expected every moment to be lost amongst +the rude brakes and tangled thickets that skirted the eminences around.</p> +<p>As the darkness increased, my situation became still more and more +forlorn. I had almost abandoned the idea of reaching the convent; +and whenever I gained any swelling ground, looked above, below, and +on every side of me, in hopes of discovering some glimmering lamp which +might indicate a hermitage, whose charitable possessor, I flattered +myself, would direct me to the monastery.</p> +<p>At length, after a tedious wandering along the hills, I found myself, +unexpectedly, under the convent walls; and, as I was looking for the +gate, the attendant lay brothers came out with lights, in order to search +for me. Scarcely had I joined them when the Coadjutor and the +Secretary came forward, with the kindest anxiety expressed their uneasiness +at my long absence, and conducted me to my apartment, where Mr. --- +was waiting, with no small degree of impatience; but I found not a word +had been mentioned of my adventure with the hermit; so that, I believe, +he strictly kept his vow till the day when the Carthusians are allowed +to speak, and which happened after my departure.</p> +<p>We had hardly supped before the gates of the convent were shut, a +circumstance which disconcerted me not a little, as the full moon gleamed +through the casements, and the stars, sparkling above the forests of +pines, invited me to leave my apartment again, and to give myself up +entirely to the spectacle they offered.</p> +<p>The Coadjutor, perceiving that I was often looking earnestly through +the windows, guessed my wishes, and calling a lay brother, ordered him +to open the gates, and wait at them till my return. It was not +long before I took advantage of this permission, and escaping from the +courts and cloisters of the monastery, all hushed in death-like stillness, +ascended a green knoll, which several ancient pines strongly marked +with their shadows: there, leaning against one of their trunks, I lifted +up my eyes to the awful barrier of surrounding mountains, discovered +by the trembling silver light of the moon shooting directly on the woods +which fringed their acclivities.</p> +<p>The lawns, the vast woods, the steep descents, the precipices, the +torrents, lay all extended beneath, softened by a pale bluish haze, +that alleviated, in some measure, the stern prospect of the rocky promontories +above, wrapped in dark shadows. The sky was of the deepest azure; +innumerable stars were distinguished with unusual clearness from this +elevation, many of which twinkled behind the fir-trees edging the promontories. +White, grey, and darkish clouds came marching towards the moon, that +shone full against a range of cliffs, which lift themselves far above +the others. The hoarse murmur of the torrent, throwing itself +from the distant wildernesses into the gloomy vales, was mingled with +the blast that blew from the mountains. It increased. The +forests began to wave, black clouds rose from the north, and, as they +fleeted along, approached the moon, whose light they shortly extinguished. +A moment of darkness succeeded; the gust was chill and melancholy; it +swept along the desert, and then subsiding, the vapours began to pass +away, and the moon returned the grandeur of the scene was renewed, and +its imposing solemnity was increased by her presence. Inspiration +was in every wind.</p> +<p>I followed some impulse which drove me to the summit of the mountains +before me; and there, casting a look on the whole extent of wild woods +and romantic precipices, thought of the days of St. Bruno. I eagerly +contemplated every rock that formerly might have met his eyes; drank +of the spring which tradition says he was wont to drink of; and ran +to every pine whose withered appearance bespoke a remote antiquity, +and beneath which, perhaps, the saint had reposed himself, when worn +with vigils, or possessed with the sacred spirit of his institutions.</p> +<p>It was midnight: the convent bell tolled; for the most solemn hour +of prayer was arrived. I cannot, nor would I, attempt to unfold +to you, in prose, half the strange things of which I thought, and which +I seemed to see, during this wild excursion. However, I owe to +it the poetical humour in which I composed the following lines, written +immediately on my return, in the album of the fathers, during the stillest +watch of the night:</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>ODE.</p> +<p> To orisons, the midnight bell<br />Had toll’d +each silent inmate from his cell;<br /> The hour was +come to muse or pray,<br />Or work mysterious rites that shun the day:<br /> My +steps some whis’pring influence led,<br />Up to yon pine-clad +mountain’s gloomy head:<br /> Hollow and deep +the gust did blow,<br />And torrents dash’d into the vales below.<br /> At +length the toilsome height attain’d,<br />Quick fled the moon, +and sudden stillness reign’d.<br /> As fearful +turn’d my searching eye,<br />Glanc’d near a shadowy form, +and fleeted by;<br /> Anon, before me full it stood:<br />A +saintly figure, pale, in pensive mood.<br /> Damp horror +thrill’d me till he spoke,<br />And accents faint the charm bound +silence broke:<br /> “Long, trav’ller! +ere this region near,<br />Say, did not whisp’rings strange arrest +thine ear?<br /> My summons ’twas to bid thee +come,<br />Where sole the friend of Nature loves to roam.<br /> Ages +long past, this drear abode<br />To solitude I sanctified, and God:<br /> ’Twas +here, by love of Wisdom brought,<br />Her truest lore, Self-knowledge, +first I sought;<br /> Devoted here my worldly wealth,<br />To +win my chosen sons immortal health.<br /> Midst these +dun woods, and mountains steep,<br />Midst the wild horrors of yon desert +deep,<br /> Midst yawning caverns, wat’ry dells,<br />Midst +long, sequestered aisles, and peaceful cells,<br /> No +passions fell distract the mind,<br />To Nature, Silence, and Herself +consign’d.<br /> In these still mansions who +shall bide,<br />’Tis mine, with Heaven’s appointment, to +decide;<br /> But, hither, I invite not all:<br />Some +want the will to come, and more the call;<br /> But +all, mark well my parting voice!<br />Led, or by chance, necessity, +or choice<br /> (Ah! with our Genius dread to sport),<br />Sage +lessons here may learn of high import.<br /> Know! +Silence is the nurse of Truth;<br />Know! Temperance long retards +the flight of Youth<br /> Learn here, how penitence +and pray’r<br />Man’s fallen race for happier worlds prepare;<br /> Learn +mild demeanour, void of art,<br />And bear, amidst the world, the hermit’s +heart;<br /> Fix, trav’ller! deep this heaven-taught +lore:<br />Know Bruno brings it, and returns no more.”<br /> (Half +sighed, half smiled his long farewell),<br />He turn’d, and vanish’d +in the bright’ning dell.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>My imagination was too much disturbed, and my spirits far too active, +to allow me any rest for some time, and I had not long been quieted +by sleep, when I was suddenly awakened by a furious blast, that drove +open my casement, and let in the roar of the tempest, for the night +was troubled. In the intervals of the storm, in those moments +when the winds seemed to pause, the faint sounds of the choir stole +upon my ear; but were swallowed up the next instant by the redoubled +fury of the gust, which was still increased by the roar of the waters.</p> +<p>I started from my bed, closed the casement, and composed myself as +well as I was able; but no sooner had the sunbeams entered my window, +than I arose, and gladly leaving my cell, hastened to the same knoll +where I had stood the night before. The storm was dissipated, +and the pure morning air delightfully refreshing; every tree, every +shrub, glistened with dew. A gentle wind breathed upon the woods, +and waved the fir-trees on the cliffs, which, free from clouds, rose +distinctly into the clear blue sky. I strayed from the knoll into +the valley between the steeps of wood and the turrets of the convent, +and passed the different buildings, destined for the manufacture of +the articles necessary to the fathers; for nothing is worn or used within +this inclosure which comes from the profane world.</p> +<p>Traversing the meadows and a succession of little dells, where I +was so lately bewildered, I came to a bridge thrown over the torrent, +which I crossed; and here followed a slight path that brought me to +an eminence, covered with a hanging wood of beach-trees feathered to +the ground, from whence I looked down the narrow pass towards Grenoble. +Perceiving a smoke to arise from the groves which nodded over the eminence, +I climbed up a rocky steep, and, after struggling through a thicket +of shrubs, entered a smooth, sloping lawn, framed in by woody precipices; +at one extremity of which I discovered the cottage, whose smoke had +directed me to this sequestered spot; and, at the other, a numerous +group of cattle, lying under the shade of some beech-trees, whilst several +friars, with long beards and russet garments, were employed in milking +them.</p> +<p>The luxuriant foliage of the woods, clinging round the steeps that +skirted the lawn; its gay, sunny exposition; the groups of sleek, dappled +cows, and the odd employment of the friars, so little consonant with +their venerable beards, formed a picturesque and certainly very singular +spectacle. I, who had been accustomed to behold “milk-maids +singing blithe,” and tripping lightly along with their pails, +was not a little surprised at the silent gravity with which these figures +shifted their trivets from cow to cow; and it was curious to see with +what adroitness they performed their functions, managing their long +beards with a facility and cleanliness equally admirable.</p> +<p>I watched all their movements for some time, concealed by the trees, +before I made myself visible; but no sooner did I appear on the lawn, +than one of the friars quitted his trivet, very methodically set down +his pail, and coming towards me with an open, smiling countenance, desired +me to refresh myself with some bread and milk. A second, observing +what was going forward, was resolved not to be exceeded in an hospitable +act, and, quitting his pail too, hastened into the woods whence he returned +in a few minutes with some strawberries, very neatly enveloped in fresh +leaves. These hospitable, milking fathers, next invited me to +the cottage, whither I declined going, as I preferred the shade of the +beeches; so, throwing myself on the dry aromatic herbage, I enjoyed +the pastoral character of the scene with all possible glee.</p> +<p>Not a cloud darkened the heavens; every object smiled; innumerable +gaudy flies glanced in the sunbeams that played in a clear spring by +the cottage; I saw with pleasure the sultry glow of the distant cliffs +and forests, whilst indolently reclined in the shade, listening to the +summer hum; one hour passed after another neglected away, during my +repose in this most delightful of valleys. The cattle were all +slunk into the recesses of the wood, and were drinking at the streams +which flow along their shades, before I could prevail on myself to quit +the turf and the beech trees. Never shall I cease regretting the +peaceful moments I spent in Valombré, as never perhaps, were +I even to return to it, may so many circumstances unite to render it +pleasing.</p> +<p>When I returned unwillingly to the convent, the only topic on which +I could converse was the charms of Valombré; but notwithstanding +the indifference with which I now regarded the prospects that surrounded +the monastery, I could not disdain an offer made by one of the friars, +of conducting me to the summit of the highest peak in the desert.</p> +<p>Pretty late in the afternoon I set out with my guide, and, following +his steps through many forests of pine, and wild apertures among them, +strewed with fragments, arrived at a chapel, built on a mossy rock, +and dedicated to St. Bruno.</p> +<p>Having once more drunk of the spring that issues from the rock on +which this edifice is raised, I moved forward, keeping my eyes fixed +on a lofty green mountain, whence rises a vast cliff, spiring up to +a surprising elevation; and which (owing to the sun’s reflection +on a transparent mist hovering around it) was tinged with a pale visionary +light. This object was the goal to which I aspired; and redoubling +my activity, I made the best of my way over rude ledges of rocks, and +crumbled fragments of the mountain interspersed with firs, till I came +to the green steeps I had surveyed at a distance.</p> +<p>These I ascended with some difficulty, and, leaving a few scattered +beech-trees behind, in full leaf, shortly bid adieu to summer, and entered +the regions of spring; for, as I approached that part of the mountain +next the summit, the trees, which I found there rooted in the crevices, +were but just beginning to unfold their leaves, and every spot of the +greensward was covered with cowslips and violets.</p> +<p>After taking a few moments’ repose, my guide prepared to clamber +amongst the rocks, and I followed him with as much alertness as I was +able, till laying hold of the trunk of a withered pine, we sprang upon +a small level space, where I seated myself, and beheld far beneath me +the vast desert and dreary solitudes, amongst which appeared, thinly +scattered, the green meadows and hanging lawns. The eye next overlooking +the barrier of mountains, ranged through immense tracts of distant countries; +the plains where Lyons is situated; the woodlands and lakes of Savoy; +amongst which that of Bourget was near enough to discover its beauties, +all glowing with the warm haze of the setting sun.</p> +<p>My situation was too dizzy to allow a long survey; so turning my +eyes from the terrific precipice, I gladly beheld an opening in the +rocks, through which we passed into a little irregular glen of the smoothest +greensward, closed in on one side by the great peak, and on the others +by a ridge of sharp pinnacles, which crown the range of white cliffs +I had so much admired the night before, when brightened by the moon.</p> +<p>The singular situation of this romantic spot invited me to remain +in it till the sun was about to sink on the horizon: during which time +I visited every little cave delved in the ridges of rock, and gathered +large sprigs of the mezereon and rhododendron in full bloom, which, +with a surprising variety of other plants, carpeted this lovely glen. +A luxuriant vegetation,</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>“That on the green turf suck’d the honey’d showers,<br />And +purpled all the ground with vernal flow’rs.”</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines1"><br /></div> +<p>My guide, perceiving I was ready to mount still higher, told me it +would be in vain, as the beds of snow that lie eternally in some fissures +of the mountain, must necessarily impede my progress; but, finding I +was very unwilling to abandon the enterprise, he showed me a few notches +in the peak, by which we might ascend, though not without danger. +This prospect rather abated my courage, and the wind rising, drove several +thick clouds round the bottom of the peak, which increasing every minute, +shortly screened the green mountain and all the forest from our sight. +A sea of vapours soon undulated beneath my feet, and lightning began +to flash from a dark angry cloud, that hung over the valleys, and deluged +them with storms, whilst I was securely standing under the clear expanse +of ether.</p> +<p>But the hour did not admit of my remaining long in this proud station; +so descending, I was soon obliged to pass through the vapours, and, +carefully following my guide (for a false step might have caused my +destruction), wound amongst the declivities, till we left the peak behind, +and just as we reached the green mountain, which was moistened with +the late storm, the clouds fleeted and the evening recovered its serenity.</p> +<p>Leaving the chapel of St. Bruno on the right, we entered the woods, +and soon emerged from them into a large pasture, under the grand amphitheatre +of mountains, having a gentle ascent before us, beyond which appeared +the neat blue roofs and glittering spires of the convent, where we arrived +as the moon was beginning to assume her empire.</p> +<p>I need not say I rested well after the interesting fatigues of the +day. The next morning, early, I quitted my kind hosts with great +reluctance. The Coadjutor and two other fathers accompanied me +to the outward gate, and there within the solemn circle of the desert +bestowed on me their benediction.</p> +<p>It seemed indeed to come from their hearts, nor would they leave +me till I was a hundred paces from the convent; and then, laying their +hands on their breasts, declared that if ever I was disgusted with the +world, here was an asylum.</p> +<p>I was in a melancholy mood when I traced back all the windings of +my road, and when I found myself beyond the last gate, in the midst +of the wide world again, it increased.</p> +<p>We returned to Les Echelles; from thence to Chamberry, and, instead +of going through Aix, passed by Amecy; but nothing in all the route +engaged my attention, nor had I any pleasing sensations till I beheld +the glassy lake of Geneva, and its lovely environs.</p> +<p>I rejoiced then because I knew of a retirement on its banks where +I could sit and think of Valombré.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>Footnotes:</p> +<p><a name="footnote110"></a><a href="#citation110">{110}</a> +Hills in the neighbourhood of Quang-Tong</p> +<p><a name="footnote127"></a><a href="#citation127">{127}</a> +The Peries, inhabitants of Ginnistan, live upon perfumes, etc., etc. +See Richardson’s Dissertations.</p> +<p><a name="footnote133"></a><a href="#citation133">{133}</a> +Thisbe, a favourite greyhound torn to pieces by a mad dog.</p> +<p><a name="footnote140"></a><a href="#citation140">{140}</a> +See the description of the Grande Chartreuse.</p> +<p><a name="footnote156"></a><a href="#citation156">{156}</a> +The conduct of the emperor, since the death of his mother, seems to +be accomplishing this prediction apace.</p> +<p><a name="footnote170a"></a><a href="#citation170a">{170a}</a> +It is reasonably conjectured that the sea formerly washed the walls +of Padua.</p> +<p><a name="footnote170b"></a><a href="#citation170b">{170b}</a> +T. Livius, L. i., c. i.</p> +<p><a name="footnote170c"></a><a href="#citation170c">{170c}</a> +Lib. v., c. iv., p. 5.</p> +<p><a name="footnote171"></a><a href="#citation171">{171}</a> +Called Roscani in Venetian, and reduced to ashes for the glass manufactory +at Murano.</p> +<p><a name="footnote182"></a><a href="#citation182">{182}</a> +A nephew of Bertoni, and worthy of his uncle.</p> +<p><a name="footnote214"></a><a href="#citation214">{214}</a> +Mentioned by Dante in his “Purgatorio.”</p> +<p><a name="footnote240"></a><a href="#citation240">{240}</a> +Mem. pour la Vie de Petrarque, vol. i., p. 439.</p> +<p><a name="footnote284"></a><a href="#citation284">{284}</a> +Angela are frequently represented, in legendary tales, as riding on +the beams of the moon.</p> +<div class="GutenbergBlankLines2"><br /><br /></div> +<p>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, DREAMS, WAKING THOUGHTS, ETC. ***</p> +<pre> + +******This file should be named drwt10h.htm or drwt10h.zip****** +Corrected EDITIONS of our EBooks get a new NUMBER, drwt11h.htm +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, drwt10ah.htm + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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