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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Bushman, by Edward Wilson Landor
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Bushman
+       Life in a New Country
+
+Author: Edward Wilson Landor
+
+Release Date: December, 2004 [EBook #7181]
+Last Updated: August 10, 2012
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE BUSHMAN ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sue Asscher
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE BUSHMAN: LIFE IN A NEW COUNTRY
+
+BY EDWARD WILSON LANDOR
+
+
+
+(ILLUSTRATION: "KANGAROO HUNTING.")
+
+----------------------------
+
+
+THE BUSHMAN.
+
+LIFE IN A NEW COUNTRY
+
+BY
+
+EDWARD WILSON LANDOR.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+The British Colonies now form so prominent a portion of the Empire,
+that the Public will be compelled to acknowledge some interest in
+their welfare, and the Government to yield some attention to their
+wants. It is a necessity which both the Government and the Public
+will obey with reluctance.
+
+Too remote for sympathy, too powerless for respect, the Colonies,
+during ages of existence, have but rarely occupied a passing thought
+in the mind of the Nation; as though their insignificance entitled
+them only to neglect. But the weakness of childhood is passing away:
+the Infant is fast growing into the possession and the consciousness
+of strength, whilst the Parent is obliged to acknowledge the
+increasing usefulness of her offspring.
+
+The long-existing and fundamental errors of Government, under which
+the Colonies have hitherto groaned in helpless subjection, will soon
+become generally known and understood -- and then they will be
+remedied.
+
+In the remarks which will be found scattered through this work on the
+subject of Colonial Government, it must be observed, that the system
+only is assailed, and not individuals. That it is the system and not
+THE MEN who are in fault, is sufficiently proved by the fact that the
+most illustrious statesmen and the brightest talents of the Age, have
+ever failed to distinguish themselves by good works, whilst directing
+the fortunes of the Colonies. Lord John Russell, Lord Stanley, Mr.
+Gladstone -- all of them high-minded, scrupulous, and patriotic
+statesmen -- all of them men of brilliant genius, extensive
+knowledge, and profound thought -- have all of them been but slightly
+appreciated as Colonial rulers.
+
+Their principal success has been in perpetuating a noxious system.
+They have all of them conscientiously believed their first duty to
+be, in the words of Lord Stanley, to keep the Colonies dependent upon
+the Mother Country; and occupied with this belief, they have
+legislated for the Mother Country and not for the Colonies. Vain,
+selfish, fear-inspired policy! that keeps the Colonies down in the
+dust at the feet of the Parent State, and yet is of no value or
+advantage to her. To make her Colonies useful to England, they must
+be cherished in their infancy, and carefully encouraged to put forth
+all the strength of their secret energies.
+
+It is not whilst held in leading-strings that they can be useful, or
+aught but burthensome: rear them kindly to maturity, and allow them
+the free exercise of their vast natural strength, and they would be
+to the parent country her truest and most valuable friends.
+
+THE COLONIES OF THE EMPIRE ARE THE ONLY LASTING AND INALIENABLE
+MARKETS FOR ITS PRODUCE; and the first aim of the political economist
+should be to develop to their utmost extent the vast resources
+possessed by Great Britain in these her own peculiar fields of
+national wealth. But the policy displayed throughout the history of
+her Colonial possessions, has ever been the reverse of this. It was
+that grasping and ungenerous policy that called forth a Washington,
+and cost her an empire. It is that same miserable and low-born
+policy that still recoils upon herself, depriving her of vast
+increase of wealth and power in order to keep the chain upon her
+hapless children, those ambitious Titans whom she trembles to unbind.
+
+And yet poor Old England considers herself an excellent parent, and
+moans and murmurs over the ingratitude of her troublesome offspring!
+Like many other parents, she means to do well and act kindly, but
+unhappily the principles on which she proceeds are radically wrong.
+Hence, on the one side, heart-burning, irritation, and resentment; on
+the other, disappointment, revulsion, and alarm.
+
+Is she too deeply prejudiced, or too old in error, to attempt a new
+system of policy?
+
+In what single respect has she ever proved herself a good parent to
+any of her Colonies? Whilst supplying them with Government Officers,
+she has fettered them with unwholesome laws; whilst giving them a
+trifling preference over foreign states in their commerce, she has
+laid her grasp upon their soil; whilst allowing them to legislate in
+a small degree for themselves, she has reserved the prerogative of
+annulling all enactments that interfere with her own selfish or
+mistaken views; whilst permitting their inhabitants to live under a
+lightened pressure of taxation, she has debarred them from wealth,
+rank, honours, rewards, hopes -- all those incentives to action that
+lead men forward to glory, and stamp nations with greatness.
+
+What has she done for her Colonies -- this careful and beneficent
+parent? She has permitted them to exist, but bound them down in
+serf-like dependence; and so she keeps them -- feeble, helpless, and
+hopeless. She grants them the sanction of her flag, and the
+privilege of boasting of her baneful protection.
+
+Years -- ages have gone by, and her policy has been the same --
+darkening the heart and crushing the energies of Man in climes where
+Nature sparkles with hope and teems with plenty.
+
+Time, however, too powerful for statesmen, continues his silent but
+steady advance in the great work of amelioration. The condition of
+the Colonies must be elevated to that of the counties of England.
+Absolute rule must cease to prevail in them. Men must be allowed to
+win there, as at home, honours and rank. Time, the grand minister of
+correction -- Time the Avenger, already has his foot on the threshold
+of the COLONIAL OFFICE.
+
+-----------------
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+CHAPTER.
+
+1. -- COLONISTS.
+
+2. -- ST. JAGO.
+
+3. -- THE MUTINY.
+
+4. -- THE PRISON-ISLAND.
+
+5. -- FIRST ADVENTURES.
+
+6. -- PERTH. -- COLONIAL JURIES.
+
+7. -- BOATING UP THE RIVER.
+
+8. -- FARMS ON THE RIVER.
+
+9. -- THE MORAL THERMOMETER OF COLONIES.
+
+10. -- COUNTRY LIFE.
+
+11. -- PERSECUTIONS.
+
+12. -- MICHAEL BLAKE, THE IRISH SETTLER.
+
+13. -- WILD CATTLE HUNTING.
+
+14. -- WOODMAN'S POINT.
+
+15. -- HOW THE LAWS OF ENGLAND AFFECT THE NATIVES.
+
+16. -- REMARKS ON THE PHYSICAL ORGANIZATION OF THE NATIVES.
+
+17. -- SKETCHES OF LIFE AMONG THE NATIVES.
+
+18. -- THE MODEL KINGDOM.
+
+19. -- TRIALS OF A GOVERNOR.
+
+20. -- MR. SAILS, MY GROOM. -- OVER THE HILLS. -- A SHEEP
+STATION.
+
+21. -- EXTRACTS FROM THE LOG OF A HUT-KEEPER.
+
+22. -- PELICAN SHOOTING. -- GALES. -- WRESTLING WITH DEATH.
+
+23. -- THE DESERT OF AUSTRALIA. -- CAUSE OF THE HOT WINDS. --
+GEOLOGY.
+
+24. -- COLONIAL GOVERNMENT.
+
+25. -- ONE OF THE ERRORS OF GOVERNMENT. -- ADVENTURES OF THE
+"BRAMBLE".
+
+26. -- SCIENTIFIC DISCOVERIES. -- KANGAROO HUNTING. -- EMUS. --
+LOST IN THE BUSH.
+
+27. -- THE COMET. -- VITAL STATISTICS. -- METEOROLOGY.
+
+28. -- THE BOTANY OF THE COLONY.
+
+29. -- MISFORTUNES OF THE COLONY.
+
+30. -- RESOURCES OF THE COLONY: -- HORSES FOR INDIA. -- WINE. --
+DRIED FRUITS. -- COTTON. -- COAL. -- WOOL. -- CORN. -- WHALE-
+OIL. -- A WHALE HUNT. -- CURED FISH. -- SHIP TIMBER.
+
+31. -- RISE AND FALL OF A SETTLEMENT. -- THE SEQUEL TO CAPTAIN
+GREY'S DISCOVERIES. -- A WORD AT PARTING.
+
+
+(PLATES.
+
+KANGAROO HUNTING (Frontispiece).
+THE BIVOUAC.
+SPEARING KANGAROO.
+DEATH OF THE KANGAROO.
+EMU HUNT (woodcut).)
+
+
+THE BUSHMAN;
+
+OR,
+
+LIFE IN A NEW COUNTRY.
+
+
+CHAPTER 1.
+
+COLONISTS.
+
+The Spirit of Adventure is the most animating impulse in the human
+breast. Man naturally detests inaction; he thirsts after change and
+novelty, and the prospect of excitement makes him prefer even danger
+to continued repose.
+
+The love of adventure! how strongly it urges forward the Young! The
+Young, who are ever discontented with the Present, and sigh for
+opportunities of action which they know not where to seek. Old men
+mourn over the folly and recklessness of the Young, who, in the fresh
+and balmy spring-time of life, recoil from the confinement of the
+desk or the study, and long for active occupation, in which all their
+beating energies may find employment. Subjection is the consequence
+of civilized life; and self-sacrifice is necessary in those who are
+born to toil, before they may partake of its enjoyments. But though
+the Young are conscious that this is so, they repine not the less;
+they feel that the freshness and verdure of life must first die away;
+that the promised recompense will probably come too late to the
+exhausted frame; that the blessings which would now be received with
+prostrate gratitude will cease to be felt as boons; and that although
+the wishes and wants of the heart will take new directions in the
+progress of years, the consciousness that the spring-time of life --
+that peculiar season of happiness which can never be known again --
+has been consumed in futile desires and aspirations, in vain hopes
+and bitter experiences, must ever remain deepening the gloom of
+Memory.
+
+Anxious to possess immediate independence, young men, full of
+adventurous spirit, proceed in search of new fields of labour, where
+they may reap at once the enjoyments of domestic life, whilst they
+industriously work out the curse that hangs over the Sons of Adam.
+
+They who thus become emigrants from the ardent spirit of adventure,
+and from a desire to experience a simpler and less artificial manner
+of living than that which has become the essential characteristic of
+European civilization, form a large and useful body of colonists.
+These men, notwithstanding the pity which will be bestowed upon them
+by those whose limited experience of life leads to the belief that
+happiness or contentment can only be found in the atmosphere of
+England, are entitled to some consideration and respect.
+
+To have dared to deviate from the beaten track which was before them
+in the outset of life; to have perceived at so vast a distance
+advantages which others, if they had seen, would have shrunk from
+aiming at; to have persevered in their resolution, notwithstanding
+the expostulations of Age, the regrets of Friendship, and the sighs
+of Affection -- all this betokens originality and strength of
+character.
+
+Does it also betoken indifference to the wishes of others? Perhaps
+it does; and it marks one of the broadest and least amiable features
+in the character of a colonist.
+
+The next class of emigrants are those who depart from their native
+shores with reluctance and tears. Children of misfortune and sorrow,
+they would yet remain to weep on the bosom from which they have drawn
+no sustenance. But the strong blasts of necessity drive them from
+the homes which even Grief has not rendered less dear. Their future
+has never yet responded to the voice of Hope, and now, worn and
+broken in spirit, imagination paints nothing cheering in another
+land. They go solely because they may not remain -- because they
+know not where else to look for a resting place; and Necessity, with
+her iron whip, drives them forth to some distant colony.
+
+But there is still a third class, the most numerous perhaps of all,
+that helps to compose the population of a colony. This is made up of
+young men who are the wasterels of the World; who have never done,
+and never will do themselves any good, and are a curse instead of a
+benefit to others. These are they who think themselves fine, jovial,
+spirited fellows, who disdain to work, and bear themselves as if life
+were merely a game which ought to be played out amid coarse laughter
+and wild riot.
+
+These go to a colony because their relatives will not support them in
+idleness at home. They feel no despair at the circumstance, for
+their pockets have been refilled, though (they are assured) for the
+last time; and they rejoice at the prospect of spending their capital
+far from the observation of intrusive guardians.
+
+Disgusted at authority which has never proved sufficient to restrain
+or improve them, they become enamoured with the idea of absolute
+license, and are far too high-spirited to entertain any apprehensions
+of future poverty. These gallant-minded and truly enviable fellows
+betake themselves, on their arrival, to the zealous cultivation of
+field-sports instead of field produce. They leave with disdain the
+exercise of the useful arts to low-bred and beggarly-minded people,
+who have not spirit enough for anything better; whilst they
+themselves enthusiastically strive to realize again those glorious
+times,--
+
+"When wild in woods the noble savage ran."
+
+In the intervals of relaxation from these fatigues, when they return
+to a town life, they endeavour to prove the activity of their
+energies and the benevolence of their characters, by getting up balls
+and pic-nics, solely to promote the happiness of the ladies. But
+notwithstanding this appearance of devotion to the fair sex, their
+best affections are never withdrawn from the companion of their
+hearts -- the brandy flask. They evince their generous hospitality
+by hailing every one who passes their door, with "How are you, old
+fellow? Come in, and take a nip." Somehow or other they are always
+liked, even by those who pity and despise them.
+
+The women only laugh at their irregularities -- they are such
+"good-hearted creatures!" And so they go easily and rapidly down
+that sloping path which leads to ruin and despair. What is their
+end? Many of them literally kill themselves by drinking; and those
+who get through the seasoning, which is the fatal period, are either
+compelled to become labourers in the fields for any one who will
+provide them with food; or else succeed in exciting the compassion of
+their friends at home, by their dismal accounts of the impossibility
+of earning a livelihood in a ruined and worthless colony; and having
+thus obtained money enough to enable them to return to England, they
+hasten to throw themselves and their sorrows into the arms of their
+sympathizing relatives.
+
+Nothing can be more absurd than to imagine that a fortune may be made
+in a colony by those who have neither in them nor about them any of
+the elements or qualities by which fortunes are gained at home.
+
+There are, unfortunately, few sources of wealth peculiar to a colony.
+The only advantage which the emigrant may reasonably calculate upon
+enjoying, is the diminution of competition. In England the crowd is
+so dense that men smother one another.
+
+It is only by opening up the same channels of wealth under more
+favourable circumstances, that the emigrant has any right to
+calculate upon success. Without a profession, without any legitimate
+calling in which his early years have been properly instructed;
+without any knowledge or any habits of business, a man has no better
+prospect of making a fortune in a colony than at home. None,
+however, so circumstanced, entertains this belief; on the contrary,
+he enters upon his new career without any misgivings, and with the
+courage and enthusiasm of a newly enlisted recruit.
+
+Alas! the disappointment which so soon and so inevitably succeeds,
+brings a crowd of vices and miseries in its train.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 2.
+
+ST. JAGO.
+
+The reader may naturally expect to be informed of the reasons that
+have induced me thus to seek his acquaintance. In one word -- I am a
+colonist. In England, a great deal is said every day about colonies
+and colonists, but very little is known about them. A great deal is
+projected; but whatever is done, is unfortunately to their prejudice.
+Secretaries of State know much more about the distant settlements of
+Great Britain than the inhabitants themselves; and, consequently, the
+latter are seldom able to appreciate the ordinances which (for their
+own good) they are compelled to submit to.
+
+My own experience is chiefly confined to one of the most
+insignificant of our colonies, -- insignificant in point of
+population, but extremely important as to its geographical position,
+and its prospects of future greatness, -- but the same principle of
+government applies to all the British settlements.
+
+A few years ago, I was the victim of medical skill; and being
+sentenced to death in my own country by three eminent physicians, was
+comparatively happy in having that sentence commuted to banishment.
+A wealthy man would have gone to Naples, to Malta, or to Madeira; but
+a poor one has no resource save in a colony, unless he will
+condescend to live upon others, rather than support himself by his
+own exertions.
+
+The climate of Western Australia was recommended; and I may be
+grateful for the alternative allowed me.
+
+As I shall have occasion hereafter to allude to them incidentally, I
+may mention that my two brothers accompanied me on this distant
+voyage.
+
+The elder, a disciple of Aesculapius, was not only anxious to gratify
+his fraternal solicitude and his professional tastes by watching my
+case, but was desirous of realizing the pleasures of rural life in
+Australia.
+
+My younger brother (whose pursuits entitle him to be called
+Meliboeus) was a youth not eighteen, originally designed for the
+Church, and intended to cut a figure at Oxford; but modestly
+conceiving that the figure he was likely to cut would not tend to the
+advancement of his worldly interests, and moreover, having no
+admiration for Virgil beyond the Bucolics, he fitted himself out with
+a Lowland plaid and a set of Pandaean pipes, and solemnly dedicated
+himself to the duties of a shepherd.
+
+Thus it was that we were all embarked in the same boat; or rather, we
+found ourselves in the month of April, 1841, on board of a certain
+ill-appointed barque bound for Western Australia.
+
+We had with us a couple of servants, four rams with curling horns --
+a purchase from the late Lord Western; a noble blood-hound, the gift
+of a noble Lord famous for the breed; a real old English
+mastiff-bitch, from the stock at Lyme Park; and a handsome spaniel
+cocker. Besides this collection of quadrupeds, we had a vast
+assortment of useless lumber, which had cost us many hundred pounds.
+Being most darkly ignorant of every thing relating to the country to
+which we were going, but having a notion that it was very much of the
+same character with that so long inhabited by Robinson Crusoe, we had
+prudently provided ourselves with all the necessaries and even
+non-necessaries of life in such a region. Our tool chests would have
+suited an army of pioneers; several distinguished ironmongers of the
+city of London had cleared their warehouses in our favour of all the
+rubbish which had lain on hand during the last quarter of a century;
+we had hinges, bolts, screws, door-latches, staples, nails of all
+dimensions -- from the tenpenny, downwards -- and every other
+requisite to have completely built a modern village of reasonable
+extent. We had tents, Macintosh bags, swimming-belts, several sets
+of sauce-pans in graduated scale, (we had here a distant eye to
+kangaroo and cockatoo stews,) cleavers, meat-saws, iron skewers, and
+a general apparatus of kitchen utensils that would have satisfied the
+desires of Monsieur Soyer himself. Then we had double and
+single-barrelled guns, rifles, pistols, six barrels of Pigou and
+Wilkes' gunpowder; an immense assortment of shot, and two hundred
+weight of lead for bullets.
+
+Besides the several articles already enumerated, we had provided
+ourselves with eighteen months' provisions, in pork and flour,
+calculating that by the time this quantity was consumed, we should
+have raised enough to support our establishment out of the soil by
+the sweat of our brows. And thus from sheer ignorance of colonial
+life, we had laid out a considerable portion of our capital in the
+purchase of useless articles, and of things which might have been
+procured more cheaply in the colony itself. Nor were we the only
+green-horns that have gone out as colonists: on the contrary,
+nine-tenths of those who emigrate, do so in perfect ignorance of the
+country they are about to visit and the life they are destined to
+lead. The fact is, Englishmen, as a body know nothing and care
+nothing about colonies. My own was merely the national ignorance.
+An Englishman's idea of a colony (he classes them altogether) is,
+that it is some miserable place -- the Black-hole of the British
+empire -- where no one would live if he were allowed a choice; and
+where the exiled spirits of the nation are incessantly sighing for a
+glimpse of the white cliffs of Albion, and a taste of the old
+familiar green-and-yellow fog of the capital of the world.
+Experience alone can convince him that there are in other regions of
+the world climes as delightful, suns as beneficent, and creditors as
+confiding, as those of Old England.
+
+The voyage, of course, was tedious enough; but some portion of it was
+spent very pleasantly in calculating the annual profits which our
+flocks were likely to produce.
+
+The four noble rams, with their curly horns, grew daily more valuable
+in our estimation. By the sailors, no doubt, they were rated no
+higher than the miserable tenants of the long-boat, that formed part
+of the cuddy provisions. But with us it was very different. As we
+looked, every bright and balmy morning, into the pen which they
+occupied, we were enabled to picture more vividly those Arcadian
+prospects which seemed now brought almost within reach. In these
+grave and respectable animals we recognised the patriarchs of a vast
+and invaluable progeny; and it was impossible to help feeling a kind
+of veneration for the sires of that fleecy multitude which was to
+prove the means of justifying our modest expectations of happiness
+and wealth.
+
+Our dogs also afforded us the most pleasing subjects for speculation.
+With the blood-hound we were to track the footsteps of the midnight
+marauder, who should invade the sanctity of our fold. The spaniel
+was to aid in procuring a supply of game for the table; and I
+bestowed so much pains upon his education during the voyage, that
+before we landed he was perfectly au fait in the article of
+"down-charge!" and used to flush the cat in the steward's pantry with
+the greatest certainty and satisfaction.
+
+Jezebel, the mastiff-birch, was expected to assist in guarding our
+castle, -- an honourable duty which her courage and fidelity amply
+warranted us in confiding to her. Of the former quality, I shall
+mention an instance that occurred during the voyage. We had one day
+caught a shark, twelve feet long; and no sooner was he hauled on deck
+than Jezebel, wild with fury, rushed through the circle of eager
+sailors and spectators, and flew directly at the nose of the
+struggling monster. It was with difficulty that she was dragged away
+by the admiring seamen, who were compelled to admit that there was a
+creature on board more reckless and daring than themselves.
+
+We were now approaching the Cape Verd Islands. I daresay it has been
+frequently mentioned, that there is in these latitudes a vast bed of
+loose sea-weed, floating about, which has existed there from time
+immemorial, and which is only found in this one spot of the ocean; as
+though it were here compelled to remain under the influence of some
+magic spell. Some navigators are of opinion that it grows on the
+rocks at the bottom of the sea, beneath the surface on which it
+floats. Others maintain that it has been drifted across the
+Atlantic, having issued from the Gulf of Mexico. Here, however, it
+is doomed to drift about hopelessly, for ever lost in the wilderness
+of waters; on the surface of which it now vegetates, affording
+shelter to small crabs, and many curious kinds of fishes.
+
+One of the latter which we caught, about an inch in length, had a
+spike on his back, and four legs, with which he crawled about the
+sea-weed.
+
+We approached the Island of St. Jago, sailing unconsciously close to
+a sunken rock, on which (as we afterwards learnt) the "Charlotte" had
+struck about six weeks before whilst under full sail, and had gone
+down in a few minutes, barely allowing time for the crew to escape in
+their boat.
+
+Notwithstanding we had been five weeks at sea when we dropped anchor
+in Porto Praya roads, the appearance of the land was by no means
+inviting to the eyes. A high and extremely barren hill, or large
+heap of dry earth, with a good many stones about it, seemed to
+compose the Island. Close to us was the town, a collection of white
+houses that looked very dazzling in the summer sun. Beside, and
+running behind it, was a greenish valley, containing a clump of
+cocoa-nut trees. This was the spot we longed to visit; so, getting
+into the captain's boat, we approached the shore, where a number of
+nearly naked negroes rushing into the sea (there being no pier or
+jetty) presented their slimy backs at the gun-wale, and carried us in
+triumph to the beach. The town boasted of one hotel, in the only
+sitting-room of which we found some Portuguese officers smoking pipes
+as dirty as themselves, and drinking a beverage which had much the
+appearance of rum and water. There was no one who could speak a word
+of English; but at length a French waiter appeared, who seemed
+ravished with delight at the jargon with which we feebly reminded him
+of his own lively language "when at home." Having ordered dinner, we
+wandered off in search of the coca-nut valley, and purchased bananas
+for the first time in our lives, and oranges, the finest in the world.
+
+Those who have been long at sea know how pleasant it is to walk once
+more upon the land. It is one of the brightest of the Everlasting
+flowers in the garland of Memory.
+
+We walked along the sea-beach, as people so circumstanced must ever
+do, full of gladsome fancies. There was delight for us in the varied
+shells at our feet; in the curious skeletons of small fishes,
+untimely deceased; in the fantastic forms of the drifted sea-weed; in
+the gentle ripple of the companionable waves by our side. And little
+Fig, the spaniel, was no less pleased then ourselves. He ran before
+us rejoicing in his fleetness; and he ran back again in a moment to
+tell us how glad he was. Then as a wave more incursive than its
+predecessor unexpectedly wetted his feet, he would droop his tail and
+run faster with alarm, until the sight of some bush or bough, left
+high and dry by the last tide, awakened his nervous suspicions, and
+dreading an ambuscade, he would stop suddenly and bark at the
+dreadful object, until we arrived at his side, when, wagging his tail
+and looking slyly up with his joyous eyes, he would scamper away
+again as though he would have us believe he had been all the time
+only in fun.
+
+What profound satisfaction is there in the freedom of land after so
+long a confinement! The sunshine that makes joyous every object
+around us finds its way into the deeps of the heart.
+
+And now we determined to bathe. So we crossed over a jutting rock,
+on the other side of which was a beautiful and secluded little bay,
+so sheltered that the waves scarcely rippled as they came to kiss the
+shell-covered beach. Here we soon unrobed; and I was the first to
+rush at full speed into the inviting waters. Before I got up to my
+middle, however, I saw something before me that looked like a dark
+rock just below the surface. I made towards it, intending to get
+upon it, and dive off on the other side; but lo! as I approached, it
+stirred; then it darted like a flash of lightning towards one side of
+the bay, whilst I, after standing motionless for a moment, retreated
+with the utmost expedition.
+
+It was a ground-shark, of which there are numbers on that coast.
+
+We lost no time in putting on our clothes again, and returned in
+rather a fluttered state to the inn.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 3.
+
+THE MUTINY.
+
+We remained a week at St. Jago, the captain being busily engaged in
+taking in water, and quarrelling with his crew. One day, at the
+instigation of our friend, the French waiter, we made a trip of seven
+miles into the interior of the island, to visit a beautiful valley
+called Trinidad. Mounted on donkeys, and attended by two ragged,
+copper-coloured youths, we proceeded in gallant style up the main
+street, and, leaving the town, crossed the valley beyond it, and
+emerged into the open country. It was a rough, stony, and hilly
+road, through a barren waste, where there scarcely appeared a stray
+blade of grass for the goats which rambled over it in anxious
+search of herbage.
+
+At length, after a wearisome ride of several hours, we descended
+suddenly into the most fertile and luxuriant valley I ever beheld,
+and which seemed to extend a distance of some miles. A mountain
+brook flowed down the midst, on the banks of which numerous scattered
+and picturesque cottages appeared. On either side the ground was
+covered with the green carpet of Nature in the spring of the year.
+Everywhere, except in this smiling valley, we saw nothing but the
+aridity of summer, and the desolation caused by a scorching tropical
+sun. But here -- how very different! How sudden, how magical was
+the change! Every species of vegetable grew here in finest
+luxuriance. Melons of every variety, pine-apples, sweet potatoes,
+plantains, and bananas, with their broad and drooping leaves of
+freshest green and rich purple flower, and ripe yellow fruit.
+Orange-trees, cocoa-nut trees, limes -- the fig, the vine, the
+citron, the pomegranate, and numerous others, grateful to the weary
+sight, and bearing precious stores amid their branches, combined to
+give the appearance of wealth and plenty to this happy valley. It
+was not, however, destined to be entered by us without a fierce
+combat for precedence between two of our steeds. The animal whom it
+was the evil lot of Meliboeus to bestride, suddenly threw back its
+ears, and darted madly upon the doctor's quadruped, which, on its
+side, manifested no reluctance to the fight.
+
+Dreadful was the scene; the furious donkeys nearing and striking with
+their fore-feet, and biting each other about the head and neck
+without the smallest feeling of compunction or remorse; the two
+guides shrieking and swearing in Portuguese at the donkeys and each
+other, and striking right and left with their long staves, perfectly
+indifferent as to whom they hit; the unhappy riders, furious with
+fright and chagrin, shouting in English to the belligerents of both
+classes to "keep off!" The screams of two women, who were carrying
+water in the neighbourhood, enhanced by the barking of a terrified
+cur, that ran blindly hither and thither with its tail between its
+legs, in a state of frantic excitement -- altogether produced a
+tableau of the most spirited description. Peace was at length
+restored, and we all dismounted from our saddles with fully as much
+satisfaction as we had experienced when vaulting into them.
+
+There is little more to say about the valley of Trinidad. The
+cottagers who supply the town of Porto Praya with fruits and
+vegetables are extremely poor, and very uncleanly and untidy in their
+houses and habits. We had intended to spend the night with them, but
+the appearance of the accommodations determined us to return to our
+inn, in spite of the friendly and disinterested advice of our guides.
+
+St. Jago abounds with soldiers and priests; the former of whom are
+chiefly convicts from Lisbon, condemned to serve here in the ranks.
+
+The day for sailing arrived, and we were all on board and ready. Our
+barque was a temperance ship; that is, she belonged to owners who
+refused to allow their sailors the old measure of a wine-glass of rum
+in the morning, and another in the afternoon, but liberally
+substituted an extra pint of water instead.
+
+There is always one thing remarkable about these temperance ships,
+that when they arrive in harbour, their crews, excited to madness by
+long abstinence from their favourite liquor, and suffering in
+consequence all the excruciating torments of thirst, run into violent
+excesses the moment they get on shore. St. Jago is famous for a kind
+of liquid fire, called aguadente, which is smuggled on board ship
+in the shape of pumpkins and watermelons. These are sold to the
+sailors for shirts and clothing; there being nothing so eagerly
+sought for by the inhabitants of St. Jago as linen and calico.
+
+Our crew, being thoroughly disgusted with their captain, as indeed
+they had some reason to be, and their valour being wondrously excited
+by their passionate fondness for water-melons, came to a stern
+resolution of spending the remainder of their lives on this agreeable
+island; at any rate, they determined to sail no farther in our
+company. The captain was ashore, settling his accounts and receiving
+his papers; the chief-mate had given orders to loose the fore-topsail
+and weigh anchor; and we were all in the cuddy, quietly sipping our
+wine, when we heard three cheers and a violent scuffling on deck. In
+a few moments down rushed the mate in a state of delirious
+excitement, vociferating that the men were in open mutiny, and
+calling upon us, in the name of the Queen, to assist the officers of
+the ship in bringing them to order. Starting up at the call of our
+Sovereign, we rushed to our cabins in a state of nervous
+bewilderment, and loading our pistols in a manner that ensured their
+not going off, we valiantly hurried on deck in the rear of the
+exasperated officer. On reaching the raised quarter-deck of the
+vessel, we found the crew clustered together near the mainmast, armed
+with hand-spikes, boat-oars, crow-bars, and a miscellaneous
+assortment of other weapons, and listening to an harangue which the
+carpenter was in the act of delivering to them. They were all
+intoxicated; but the carpenter, a ferocious, determined villain, was
+the least so.
+
+At one of the quarter-deck gangways stood the captain's lady, a lean
+and wizened Hecate, as famous for her love of rum as any of the crew,
+but more openly rejoicing in the no less objectionable spirit of
+ultra-methodism. Screaming at the top of her voice, whilst her
+unshawled and dusky shoulders, as well as the soiled ribands of her
+dirty cap, were gently fanned by the sea-breeze, she commanded the
+men to return to their duty, in a volume of vociferation that seemed
+perfectly inexhaustible. Fearing that the quarter-deck would be
+carried by storm, we divided our party, consisting of the two mates,
+three passengers with their servants, and Mungo the black servant,
+into two divisions, each occupying one of the gang-ways.
+
+In a few moments the carpenter ceased his oration; the men cheered
+and danced about the deck, brandishing their weapons, and urging one
+another to "come on." Then with a rush, or rather a stagger, they
+assailed our position, hoping to carry it in an instant by storm.
+The mate shouted to us to fire, and pick out three or four of the
+most desperate; but perceiving the intoxicated state of the men we
+refused to shed blood, except in the last extremity of self-defence;
+and determined to maintain our post, if possible, by means of our
+pistol-butts, or our fists alone. In the general melee which ensued,
+the captain's lady, who fought in the van, and looked like a lean
+Helen MacGregor, or the mythological Ate, was captured by the
+assailants, and dragged to the deck below. Then it was that
+combining our forces, and inspired with all the ardour which is
+naturally excited by the appearance of beauty in distress, we made a
+desperate sally, and after a fearful skirmish, succeeded in rescuing
+the lady, and replacing her on the quarter-deck, with the loss only
+of her cap and gown, and a few handfuls of hair.
+
+After this exploit, both parties seemed inclined to pause and take
+breath, and in the interval we made an harangue to the sailors,
+expressive of our regret that they should act in so disgraceful a
+manner.
+
+The gallant (or rather ungallant) fellows replied that they were
+determined to be no longer commanded by a she-captain, as they called
+the lady, and therefore would sail no farther in such company.
+
+I really believe that most of them had no serious intention whatever
+in their proceedings, but the officers of the ship were firmly
+convinced that the carpenter and one or two others had resolved to
+get possession of the vessel, dispose of the passengers and mates
+somehow or other, and then slip the cable, and wreck and sell the
+ship and cargo on the coast of South America.
+
+Whilst the truce lasted, the second mate had been busily engaged
+making signals of distress, by repeatedly hoisting and lowering the
+ensign reversed, from the mizen-peak. This was soon observed from
+the deck of a small Portuguese schooner of war, which lay at anchor
+about half a mile from us, having arrived a few hours previously,
+bringing the Bishop of some-where-or-other on a visitation to the
+island. The attention of the officer of the watch had been
+previously attracted towards us by the noise we had made, and the
+violent scuffle which he had been observing through his glass. No
+sooner, therefore, was the flag reversed, than a boat was lowered
+from the quarter-davits, filled with marines, and pulled towards our
+vessel with the utmost rapidity. The mutineers, whose attention was
+directed entirely to the quarter-deck, did not perceive this
+manoeuvre, which, however, was evident enough to us, who exerted
+ourselves to the utmost to prolong the parley until our allies should
+arrive.
+
+The carpenter now decided upon renewing the assault, having laid
+aside his handspike and armed himself with an axe; but just at this
+moment the man-of-war's boat ran alongside, and several files of
+marines, with fixed bayonets, clambering on to the deck, effected a
+speedy change in the aspect of affairs. Perceiving at once how
+matters stood, the officer in command, without asking a single
+question, ordered a charge against the astonished sailors, who, after
+a short resistance, and a few violent blows given and received, were
+captured and disarmed.
+
+There was a boy among the party called Shiny Bill, some fifteen years
+of age, who managed to escape to the fore-shrouds, and giving the
+marine who pursued him a violent kick in the face, succeeded in
+reaching the fore-top, where he coiled himself up like a ball. Two
+or three marines, exasperated by the scuffle, and by several smart
+raps on the head which they had received, hastened up the shrouds
+after the fugitive, who, however, ascended to the fore-top-mast
+cross-trees, whither his enemies, after some hesitation, pursued.
+Finding this post also untenable, he proceeded to swarm up the
+fore-top-gallant-mast shrouds, and at last seated himself on the
+royal yard, where he calmly awaited the approach of the enemy.
+These, however, feeling that the position was too strong to be
+successfully assailed by marines, deliberately commenced their
+retreat, and arrived on deck, whilst their officer was hailing the
+immovable Bill in Portuguese, and swearing he would shoot him unless
+he instantly descended.
+
+Disdaining, however, to pay the least attention to these threats,
+Shiny William continued to occupy his post with the greatest
+tranquillity; and the officer, giving up the attempt in despair,
+proceeded to inquire from us in Portuguese-French the history of this
+outbreak. The scene concluded with the removal of the mutineers in
+one of the ship's boats to the man-of-war, where, in a few moments,
+several dozen lashes were administered to every man in detail, and
+the whole party were then sent on shore, and committed to a dungeon
+darker and dirtier than the worst among them had ever before been
+acquainted with. But before all this was done, and when the boats
+had pulled about a hundred yards from the vessel, Shiny Bill began to
+descend from his post. He slipped down unobserved by any one, and
+the first notice we had of his intentions was from perceiving him run
+across the deck to the starboard bow, whence he threw himself,
+without hesitation, into the sea, and began to swim lustily after his
+captive friends. Our shouts -- for, remembering the abundance of
+sharks, we were very much alarmed for the poor fellow -- attracted
+the attention of the officer in the boat, to whom we pointed out the
+figure of Bill, who seemed as eager now to make a voluntary
+surrender, and share the fate of his comrades, as he had previously
+been opposed to a violent seizure. The swimmer was soon picked up,
+and, to our regret, received in due season the same number of stripes
+as fell to the lot of his friends captured in battle.
+
+The prisoners remained several days in their dungeon, where they were
+hospitably regaled with bread and water by the Portuguese Government;
+and at the end of this period (so unworthy did they prove of the
+handsome treatment they received) the British spirit was humbled
+within them, and they entreated with tears to be allowed to return to
+their duty. The mates, however, refused to sail in the same vessel
+with the carpenter, and it was accordingly settled that he should
+remain in custody until the arrival of a British man-of-war, and then
+be returned to his country, passage free.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 4.
+
+THE PRISON-ISLAND.
+
+It was nearly the end of August when we approached the conclusion of
+our voyage. The wind was fair, the sun shone brightly, and every
+heart was gay with the hope of once more being upon land. We drew
+nigh to the Island of Rottnest, about sixteen miles from the mouth of
+the river Swan, and anchored to the north of it, waiting for a pilot
+from Fremantle.
+
+And there we had the first view of our future home. Beyond that low
+line of sand-hills, which stretched away north and south, far as the
+eye could reach, we were to begin life again, and earn for ourselves
+a fortune and an honourable name. No friendly voice would welcome us
+on landing, but numberless sharpers, eager to prey upon the
+inexperienced Griffin, and take advantage of his unavoidable
+ignorance and confiding innocence. There was nothing very cheering
+in the prospect; but supported by the confidence and ambition of
+youth, we experienced no feelings of dismay.
+
+In order to wile away the time, we landed on the island, and, passing
+through a thick wood of cypresses, came to a goodly-sized and
+comfortable-looking dwelling-house, with numerous out-buildings about
+it, all built of marine lime-stone.
+
+As the particulars which I then learned respecting this island were
+afterwards confirmed by experience and more extended information, I
+may as well enter upon its history at once.
+
+The gentleman who was then Governor of Western Australia, was Mr.
+John Hutt, a man of enlightened mind, firm, sagacious, and
+benevolent. From the first, he adopted an admirable policy with
+regard to the native inhabitants.
+
+Exhibiting on all occasions a friendly interest in their welfare, he
+yet maintained a strict authority over them, which they soon learned
+to respect and fear. The Aborigines were easily brought to feel that
+their surest protection lay in the Government; that every act of
+violence committed upon them by individual settlers was sure to be
+avenged by the whites themselves; and that, as certainly, any
+aggression on the part of the natives would call down the utmost
+severity of punishment upon the offenders. By this firm
+administration of equal justice the Aboriginal population, instead of
+being, as formerly, a hostile, treacherous, and troublesome race, had
+become harmless, docile, and in some degree useful to the settlers.
+
+But it was not the policy of Mr. Hutt merely to punish the natives
+for offences committed against the whites; he was anxious to
+substitute the milder spirit of the British law in lieu of their own
+barbarous code; and to make them feel, in process of time, that it
+was for their own interest to appeal for protection on all occasions
+to the dominant power of Government, rather than trust to their own
+courage and spears. This was no easy task, and could only be
+accomplished by firmness, discrimination, and patience; but in the
+course of a few years, considerable progress had been made in
+subduing the prejudices and the barbarous customs of the Aborigines.
+Although it had been declared by Royal Proclamation that the native
+inhabitants were in every respect subjects of the British throne, and
+as such entitled to equal privileges with ourselves, and to be judged
+on all occasions by the common and statute laws, it proved to be no
+easy matter to carry into practice these views of the Home
+Government. People in England, who derive their knowledge of savages
+from the orations delivered at Exeter Hall, are apt to conceive that
+nothing more is requisite than to ensure them protection from
+imaginary oppression, and a regular supply of spiritual comforts.
+They do not consider that whilst they insist upon these unfortunate
+creatures being treated exactly as British subjects, they are placing
+a yoke on their own necks too heavy for them to bear in their present
+condition. Primitive and simple laws are necessary to a primitive
+state of society; and the cumbrous machinery of civilized life is
+entirely unsuited to those who in their daily habits and their
+intellectual endowments are little superior to the beasts that
+perish. By declaring the savages to be in every respect British
+subjects, it becomes illegal to treat them otherwise than such. If a
+settler surprise a native in the act of stealing a pound of flour, he
+of course delivers him over to a constable, by whom he is conveyed
+before the nearest magistrate. Now this magistrate, who is an old
+settler, and well acquainted with the habits of the natives, is also
+a man of humanity; and if he were allowed to exercise a judicious
+discretion, would order the culprit to be well flogged and dismissed
+to his expectant family. But thanks to Her Majesty's well-meaning
+Secretaries of State for the Colonies, who have all successively
+judged alike on this point, it is declared most unadvisable to allow
+a local magistrate the smallest modicum of discretion. He has only
+one course to pursue, and that is, to commit the offender for trial
+at the next Quarter Sessions, to be held in the capital of the
+colony. Accordingly the poor native, who would rather have been
+flayed alive than sent into confinement for two months previous to
+trial, whilst his wives are left to their own resources, is heavily
+ironed, lest he should escape, and marched down some sixty or seventy
+miles to Fremantle gaol, where the denizen of the forest has to
+endure those horrors of confinement which only the untamed and
+hitherto unfettered savage can possibly know.
+
+Among savages, the 'Lex talionis' -- the law of retaliation -- is the
+law of nature and of right; to abstain from avenging the death of a
+relative would be considered, by the tribe of the deceased, an act of
+unpardonable neglect. Their own customs, which are to them as laws,
+point out the mode of vengeance. The nearest relative of the
+deceased must spear his slayer. Nothing is more common among these
+people than to steal one another's wives; and this propensity affords
+a prolific source of bloodshed.
+
+They have also a general law, which is never deviated from, and which
+requires that whenever a member of a tribe dies, whether from
+violence or otherwise, a life must be taken from some other tribe.
+This practice may have originated in a desire to preserve the balance
+of power; or from a belief, which is very general among them, that a
+man never dies a natural death. If he die of some disorder, and not
+of a spear-wound, they say he is "quibble gidgied," or speared by
+some person a long distance off. The native doctor, or wise man of
+the tribe, frequently pretends to know who has caused the death of
+the deceased; and the supposed murderer is of course pursued and
+murdered in turn. This custom necessarily induces a constant state
+of warfare. Now it is very right that all these barbarous and
+unchristian practices should be put an end to; but, whilst
+endeavouring to suppress them, we ought to remember that they are
+part and parcel of the long-established laws of this rude people, and
+that it is not possible all at once to make them forego their ancient
+institutions and customs. The settlers would gladly see punished all
+acts of violence committed among the natives in their neighbourhood.
+Were they permitted to inflict such punishments as are best suited to
+the limited ideas and moral thraldom of the Aborigines, these,
+without cruelty or injustice, might gradually be brought within the
+pale of civilization; but when the law declares it to be inevitable
+that every British subject who is tried and found guilty of having
+speared his enemy shall be hanged without benefit of clergy, the
+colonists out of sheer humanity and pity for the ignorance of the
+culprit, refrain from bringing him to trial and punishment -- a
+proceeding which, by the way, would cost the colony some fifteen or
+twenty pounds -- and thus he goes on in his errors, unreproved by
+the wisdom or the piety of the whites. Sometimes, however, it
+happens that the officers who exercise the calling of Protectors of
+the Aborigines, anxious to prove that their post is no sinecure, make
+a point of hunting up an occasional law-breaker, who, being brought
+to trial, is usually found guilty upon his own evidence -- the
+unfortunate culprit, conscious of no guilt in having followed the
+customs of his ancestors, generally making a candid statement of his
+offence. The sentence decreed by the English law is then passed upon
+him, and he would, of course, be duly subjected to the penalty which
+justice is supposed to demand, did not the compassionate Governor, in
+the exercise of the highest privilege of the Crown, think proper to
+step in and commute the sentence to perpetual imprisonment. As it
+would have entailed a serious expense upon the colony to have had to
+maintain these prisoners in a gaol in the capital, his Excellency
+determined to establish a penal settlement at Rottnest; and this he
+accordingly accomplished, with very good effect.
+
+At the time we visited the island, there were about twenty native
+prisoners in charge of a superintendent and a few soldiers.
+
+The prisoners were employed in cultivating a sufficient quantity of
+ground to produce their own food. It was they also who had built the
+superintendent's residence; and whenever there was nothing else to
+do, they were exercised in carrying stone to the top of a high hill,
+on which a lighthouse was proposed to be built.
+
+The Governor has certainly shown very good judgment in the formation
+of this penal establishment. It is the dread of the natives
+throughout the colony; and those prisoners who are released inspire
+among their fellows the greatest horror and dismay by their tales of
+the hardships they have suffered. No punishment can be more dreadful
+to these savages -- the most indolent race in the world -- than being
+compelled to work; and as their idleness brings them occasionally in
+contact with the superintendent's lash, their recollections and
+accounts of Rottnest are of the most fearful description. Certain,
+however, it is, that nothing has tended so much to keep the
+Aborigines in good order as the establishment of this place of
+punishment. It is maintained at very little expense to the colony,
+as the prisoners grow their own vegetables, and might easily be made
+to produce flour enough for their own consumption.
+
+It was a clear, beautiful, sparkling day, and there was a sense of
+enjoyment attached to the green foliage, the waving crops, and the
+gently heaving sea, that threw over this new world of ours a charm
+which filled our hearts with gladness.
+
+Having returned to our ship, we saw the pilot-boat rapidly
+approaching. As it came alongside, and we were hailed by the
+steersman, we felt a sensation of wonder at hearing ourselves
+addressed in English and by Englishmen, so far, so very far from the
+shores of England. With this feeling, too, was mingled something
+like pity; we could not help looking upon these poor boatmen, in
+their neat costume of blue woollen shirts, canvass trousers, and
+straw hats, as fellow-countrymen who had been long exiled from their
+native land, and who must now regard us with eyes of interest and
+affection, as having only recently left its shores.
+
+No sooner was the pilot on board than the anchor was weighed, the
+sails were set, and we began to beat up into the anchorage off
+Fremantle. Night closed upon us ere we reached the spot proposed, and
+we passed the interval in walking the deck and noting the stars come
+forth upon their watch. The only signs of life and of human
+habitation were in the few twinkling lights of the town of Fremantle:
+all beside, on the whole length of the coast, seemed to be a desert
+of sand, the back-ground of which was occupied with the dark outline
+of an illimitable forest.
+
+It was into this vast solitude that we were destined to penetrate.
+It was a picture full of sombre beauty, and it filled us with solemn
+thoughts.
+
+The next morning we were up at daybreak. Certainly it was a
+beautiful sight, to watch the sun rise without a cloud from out of
+the depths of that dark forest, rapidly dispersing the cold gray
+gloom, and giving life, as it seemed, to the sparkling waves, which
+just before had been unconsciously heaved by some internal power, and
+suffered to fall back helplessly into their graves.
+
+How differently now they looked, dancing joyously forward towards the
+shore! And the sun, that seems to bring happiness to inanimate
+things, brought hope and confidence back to the hearts of those who
+watched him rise.
+
+Flights of sea-birds of the cormorant tribe, but generally known as
+Shags, were directing their course landward from the rocky islands on
+which they had roosted during the night. What long files they form!
+-- the solitary leader winging his rapid and undeviating way just
+above the level of the waves, whilst his followers, keeping their
+regular distances, blindly pursue the course he takes. See! he
+enters the mouth of the river; some distant object to his practised
+eye betokens danger, and though still maintaining his onward course,
+he inclines upwards into the air, and the whole line, as though
+actuated by the same impulse, follow his flight. And now they
+descend again within a few feet of the river's surface, and now are
+lost behind projecting rocks. All day long they fish in the retired
+bays and sheltered nooks of the river, happy in the midst of plenty.
+
+The river Swan issues forth into the sea over a bar of rocks,
+affording only a dangerous passage for boats, or vessels drawing from
+four to five feet water. Upon the left bank of the river is the town
+of Fremantle. The most prominent object from the sea is a circular
+building of white limestone, placed on the summit of a black rock at
+the mouth of the Swan. This building is the gaol.
+
+On the other side of the roadstead, about ten or twelve miles distant
+from the main, is a chain of islands, of which Rottnest is the most
+northern. Then come some large rocks, called the Stragglers, leaving
+a passage out from the roadstead by the south of Rottnest; after
+these is Carnac, an island abounding with rabbits and mutton-birds;
+and still farther south is Garden island.
+
+Fremantle, the principal port of the colony, is unfortunately
+situated, as vessels of any burthen are obliged to anchor at a
+considerable distance from the shore. Lower down the coast is a fine
+harbour, called Mangles Bay, containing a splendid anchorage, and it
+is much to be lamented that this was not originally fixed upon as the
+site for the capital of the colony.
+
+The first impression which the visitor to this settlement receives is
+not favourable. The whole country between Fremantle and Perth, a
+distance of ten miles, is composed of granitic sand, with which is
+mixed a small proportion of vegetable mould. This unfavourable
+description of soil is covered with a coarse scrub, and an immense
+forest of banksia trees, red gums, and several varieties of the
+eucalyptus. The banksia is a paltry tree, about the size of an
+apple-tree in an English or French orchard, perfectly useless as
+timber, but affording an inexhaustible supply of firewood. Besides
+the trees I have mentioned, there is the xanthorea, or grass-tree, a
+plant which cannot be intelligibly described to those who have never
+seen it. The stem consists of a tough pithy substance, round which
+the leaves are formed. These, long and tapering like the rush, are
+four-sided, and extremely brittle; the base from which they shoot is
+broad and flat, about the size of a thumb-nail, and very resinous in
+substance. As the leaves decay annually, others are put forth above
+the bases of the old ones, which are thus pressed down by the new
+shoots, and a fresh circle is added every year to the growing plant.
+Thousands of acres are covered with this singular vegetable
+production; and the traveller at his night bivouac is always sure of
+a glorious fire from the resinous stem of the grass-tree, and a
+comfortable bed from its leaves.
+
+We landed in a little bay on the southern bank of the river. The
+houses appeared to be generally two-storied, and were built of hard
+marine limestone. Notwithstanding the sandy character of the soil,
+the gardens produced vegetables of every variety, and no part of the
+world could boast of finer potatoes or cabbages. Anxious to begin
+the primitive life of a settler as speedily as possible, we consulted
+a merchant to whom we had brought letters of introduction as to the
+best mode of proceeding. He advised us to fix our head-quarters for
+a time near to Fremantle, and thence traverse the colony until we
+should decide upon a permanent place of abode. In the meantime we
+dined and slept at Francisco's Hotel, where we were served with
+French dishes in first-rate style, and drank good luck to ourselves
+in excellent claret.
+
+In the early days of the colony, Sir James Stirling, the first
+Governor, had fixed upon Fremantle as the seat of government; and the
+settlers had begun to build themselves country-houses and elegant
+villa residences upon the banks of the river. These, however, were
+not completed before it was determined to fix the capital at Perth,
+some dozen miles up the river, where the soil was rather better, and
+where a communication with the proposed farms in the interior would
+be more readily kept up.
+
+The government officers had now to abandon their half-built stone
+villas, and construct new habitations of wood, as there was no stone
+to be found in the neighbourhood of Perth, and brick clay had not
+then been discovered.
+
+It was in one of these abandoned houses (called the Cantonment),
+situate on the banks of the Swan, about half a mile from Fremantle,
+that, by the advice of our friend, we resolved to take up our
+quarters. The building was enclosed on three sides by a rough stone
+wall, and by a wooden fence, forming a paddock of about three
+quarters of an acre in extent. It comprised one large room, of some
+forty feet by eighteen, which had a roof of thatch in tolerable
+repair. The north side, protected by a verandah, had a door and two
+windows, in which a few panes of glass remained, and looked upon the
+broad river, from which it was separated by a bank of some twenty
+feet in descent, covered with a variety of shrubs, just then
+bursting into flower. A few scattered red-gum trees, of
+the size of a well-grown ash, gave a park-like appearance to our
+paddock, of which we immediately felt extremely proud, and had no
+doubt of being very comfortable in our new domain. Besides the large
+room I have mentioned, there were two others at the back of it,
+which, unfortunately, were in rather a dilapidated condition; and
+below these apartments (which were built on the slope of a hill) were
+two more, which we immediately allotted to the dogs and sheep. This
+side of the building was enclosed by a wall, which formed a small
+court-yard. Here was an oven, which only wanted a little repair to
+be made ready for immediate use.
+
+For several days we were occupied in superintending the landing of
+our stores, and housing them in a building which we rented in the
+town at no trifling sum per week. A light dog-cart, which I had
+brought out, being unpacked, proved extremely useful in conveying to
+our intended residence such articles as we were likely to be in
+immediate want of.
+
+The two men had already taken up their abode there, together with the
+rams and dogs; and at last, leaving our comfortable quarters at the
+hotel with something like regret and a feeling of doubt and
+bewilderment, we all three marched in state, with our double-barrels
+on our shoulders, to take possession of our rural habitation.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 5.
+
+FIRST ADVENTURES.
+
+We had providently dined before we took possession; and now, at
+sunset, we stood on the bank before our house, looking down upon the
+placid river. The blood-hound was chained to one of the posts of the
+verandah; Jezebel, the noble mastiff-bitch, lay basking before the
+door, perfectly contented with her situation and prospects; and
+little Fig was busily hunting among the shrubs, and barking at the
+small birds which he disturbed as they were preparing to roost.
+
+One of the men was sitting on an upturned box beside the fire,
+waiting for the gently-humming kettle to boil; whilst the other was
+chipping wood outside the house, and from time to time carrying the
+logs into the room, and piling them upon the hearth. As we looked
+around we felt that we had now indeed commenced a new life. For some
+months, at any rate, we were to do without those comforts and
+luxuries which Englishmen at home, of every rank above the entirely
+destitute, deem so essential to bodily ease and happiness.
+
+We were to sleep on the floor, to cook our own victuals, and make our
+own beds. This was to be our mode of acquiring a settlement in this
+land of promise. Still there was an air of independence about it,
+and we felt a confidence in our own energies and resources that made
+the novelty of our position rather agreeable than otherwise.
+
+There was something exhilarating in the fresh sea-breeze; there was
+something very pleasing in the gay appearance of the shrubs that
+surrounded us -- in the broad expanse of the river, with its
+occasional sail, and its numerous birds passing rapidly over it on
+their way to the islands where they roosted, or soaring leisurely to
+and fro, with constant eyes piercing its depths, and then suddenly
+darting downwards like streams of light into the flood, and emerging
+instantly afterwards with their finny prey. The opposite bank of the
+river displayed a sandy country covered with dark scrub; and beyond
+this was the sea, with a view of Rottnest and the Straggler rocks. A
+few white cottages relieved the sombre and death-like appearance of
+that opposite shore. Unpromising as was the aspect of the country,
+it yet afforded sufficient verdure to support in good condition a
+large herd of cattle, which supplied Fremantle with milk and food.
+
+Here, then, the reader may behold us for the first time in our
+character of settlers. He may behold three individuals in light
+shooting coats and cloth caps, standing upon the bank before their
+picturesque and half-ruinous house, their dogs at their side, and
+their gaze fixed upon the river that rolled beneath them. The same
+thoughts probably occupied them all: they were now left in a land
+which looked much like a desert, with Heaven for their aid, and no
+other resources than a small capital, and their own energies and
+truth. The great game of life was now to begin in earnest, and the
+question was, how it should be played with success? Individual
+activity and exertion were absolutely necessary to ensure good
+fortune; and warmly impressed with the consciousness of this, we
+turned with one impulse in search of employment.
+
+Aesculapius began to prepare their supper for the dogs, and Meliboeus
+looked after his sheep, which were grazing in the paddock in front of
+the dwelling. As for myself, with the ardent mind of a young
+settler, I seized upon the axe, and began to chop firewood -- an
+exercise, by the way, which I almost immediately renounced.
+
+And now for supper!
+
+Our most necessary articles were buried somewhere beneath the heaps
+of rubbish with which we had filled the store-room at Fremantle. Our
+plates, cups and saucers, etc., were in a crate which was not to be
+unpacked until we had removed our property and abode to the inland
+station which we designed for our permanent residence. There were,
+however, at hand for present use eight or nine pewter plates, and a
+goodly sized pannikin a-piece. In one corner of the room was a bag
+of flour, in another a bag of sugar, in a third a barrel of pork, and
+on the table, composed of a plank upon two empty casks, were a couple
+of loaves which Simon had purchased in the town, and a large tea-pot
+which he had fortunately discovered in the same cask with the
+pannikins.
+
+The kettle fizzed upon the fire, impatient to be poured out; the
+company began to draw round the hospitable board, seating themselves
+upon their bedding, or upon empty packing-cases; and, in a word, tea
+time had arrived. Hannibal, as we called the younger of our
+attendants, from his valiant disposition, had filled one of the
+pewter plates with brown sugar from the bag; the doctor made the tea,
+and we wanted nothing but spoons to make our equipage complete.
+However, every man had his pocket-knife, and so we fell to work.
+
+Butter being at that time half-a-crown a pound, Simon (our head man)
+had prudently refrained from buying any; and as he had forgotten to
+boil a piece of the salt pork, we had to sup upon dry bread, which we
+did without repining, determined, however, to manage better on the
+morrow.
+
+In the meantime we were nearly driven desperate by most violent
+attacks upon our legs, committed by myriads of fleas. They were so
+plentiful that we could see them crawling upon the floor; the dogs
+almost howled with anguish, and the most sedate among us could not
+refrain from bitter and deep execrations. We had none of us ever
+before experienced such torment; and really feared that in the course
+of the night we should be eaten up entirely. These creatures are
+hatched in the sand, and during the rains of winter they take refuge
+in empty houses; but they infest every place throughout the country,
+during all seasons, more or less, and are only kept down by constant
+sweeping from becoming a most tremendous and overwhelming plague,
+before which every created being, not indigenous to the soil, would
+soon disappear, or be reduced to a bundle of polished bones. The
+natives themselves never sleep twice under the same wigwam.
+
+After tea, the sheep and dogs being carefully disposed of for the
+night, we turned out before the house, and comforted ourselves with
+cigars; and having whiled away as much time as possible, we spread
+out our mattresses on the floor, and in a state of desperation
+attempted to find rest. We escaped with our lives, and were thankful
+in the morning for so much mercy vouchsafed to us, but we could not
+conscientiously return thanks for a night's refreshing rest.
+
+At the first dawn of day we rolled up our beds, lighted the fire,
+swept out the room, let the dogs loose, and drove the rams to pasture
+on the margin of the river. After breakfast, which was but a sorry
+meal, we determined to make our first attempt at baking. Simon, a
+man of dauntless resolution, undertook the task, using a piece of
+stale bread as leaven. It was a serious business, and we all helped
+or looked on; but the result, notwithstanding the multitude of
+councillors, was a lamentable failure. Better success, fortunately,
+attended the labours of Hannibal, who boiled a piece of salt pork
+with the greatest skill.
+
+Mutton at this period, 1841, was selling at sixteen-pence per pound
+(it is now two-pence), and we therefore resolved to depend upon our
+guns for fresh meat. We had brought with us a fishing-net, which we
+determined to put in requisition the following day.
+
+The most prominent idea in the imagination of a settler on his first
+arrival at an Australian colony, is on the subject of the natives.
+Whilst in England he was, like the rest of his generous-minded
+countrymen, sensibly alive to the wrongs of these unhappy beings --
+wrongs which, originating in a great measure in the eloquence of
+Exeter Hall, have awakened the sympathies of a humane and unselfish
+people throughout the length and breadth of the kingdom. Full of
+these noble and ennobling sentiments, the emigrant approaches the
+scene of British-colonial cruelty; but no sooner does he land, than a
+considerable change takes place in his feelings. He begins to think
+that he is about to place his valuable person and property in the
+very midst of a nation of savages, who are entirely unrestrained by
+any moral or human laws, or any religious scruples, from taking the
+most disagreeable liberties with these precious things.
+
+The refined and amiable philanthropist gradually sinks into the
+coarse-minded and selfish settler, who is determined to protect
+himself, his family, and effects, by every means in his power -- even
+at the risk of outraging the amiable feelings of his brother
+philanthropists at home. In Western Australia, the natives generally
+are in very good order; they behave peaceably towards the settlers,
+eat their flour, and in return occasionally herd or hunt up their
+cattle, and keep their larders supplied with kangaroo.
+
+It is very rarely -- I have never indeed heard of a single
+well-authenticated instance -- that any amount of benefits, or the
+most unvarying kindness, can awaken the smallest spark of gratitude
+in the breasts of these degraded savages. Those who derive their
+chief support from the flour and broken meat daily bestowed upon them
+by the farm settlers, would send a spear through their benefactors
+with as little remorse as through the breast of a stranger. The fear
+of punishment alone has any influence over them; and although in this
+colony they are never treated with anything like cruelty or
+oppression, it is absolutely necessary to personal safety to maintain
+a firm and prompt authority over them.
+
+When we first arrived, we were philanthropists, in the usual sense of
+that term, and thought a good deal about the moral and general
+destitution of this unfortunate people; but when we first encountered
+on the road a party of coffee-coloured savages, with spears in their
+hands, and loose kangaroo-skin cloaks (their only garments) on their
+shoulders, accompanied by their women similarly clad, and each
+carrying in a bag at her back her black-haired offspring, with a face
+as filthy as its mother's -- we by no means felt inclined to step
+forward and embrace them as brethren.
+
+I question, indeed, whether the most ardent philanthropist in the
+world would not have hesitated before he even held forth his hand to
+creatures whose heads and countenances were darkened over with a
+compound of grease and red clay, whose persons had never been
+submitted to ablution from the hour of their birth, and whose
+approach was always heralded by a perfume that would stagger the most
+enthusiastic lover of his species.
+
+But it was not merely disgust that kept us at arm's length. We must
+confess we were somewhat appalled at this first view of savage life,
+as we looked upon the sharp-pointed spears, wild eyes, and
+well-polished teeth of our new acquaintance. Although, in truth,
+they were perfectly harmless in their intentions, we could not help
+feeling a little nervous as they drew nigh, and saluted us with
+shrill cries and exclamations, and childish bursts of wild laughter.
+Their principal question was, whether we were "cabra-man?" or seamen,
+as we afterwards discovered their meaning to be. After a good deal
+of screaming and laughing, they passed on their way, leaving us much
+relieved by their absence. They seemed to be, and experience has
+proved to us that they are, the most light-hearted, careless, and
+happy people in the world. Subsisting upon the wild roots of the
+earth, opossums, lizards, snakes, kangaroos, or anything else that is
+eatable which happens to fall in their way, they obtain an easy
+livelihood, and never trouble themselves with thoughts of the morrow.
+They build a new house for themselves every evening; that is, each
+family, erects a slight shelter of sticks covered over with bark, or
+the tops of the xanthorea, that just keeps off the wind; and with a
+small fire at their feet, the master of the family, his wife, or
+wives, and children, lie huddled together like a cluster of snakes --
+happier than the tenants of downy beds. Far happier, certainly, than
+we had lately been in ours. We had, however, devised a new plan for
+the next night. Having each of us a hammock, we suspended them from
+the rafters; and thus, after the first difficulty and danger of
+getting into bed was overcome, we lay beyond the reach of our
+formidable enemies, and contrived to sleep soundly and comfortably.
+
+The next morning we breakfasted early. My brothers resolved to try
+the effect of the fishing-net, and I myself arranged a shooting
+excursion with a lad, whose parents rented a house situated about a
+quarter of a mile from our own. We were to go to some lakes a few
+miles distant, which abounded with wild ducks and other water-fowl.
+Preceded by Fig, and more soberly accompanied by Jezebel, we set out
+upon our expedition.
+
+It was the close of the Australian winter, and the temperature was
+that of a bright, clear day in England at the end of September. The
+air was mild, but elastic and dry; the peppermint and wattle-trees
+were gay with white and yellow blossoms; an infinite variety of
+flowering shrubs gave to the country the appearance of English
+grounds about a goodly mansion; whilst the earth was carpeted with
+the liveliest flowers. It was impossible to help being in good
+spirits.
+
+We passed up a valley of white gum-trees, which somewhat resemble the
+ash, but are of a much lighter hue. They belong to the eucalyptus
+species.
+
+I shot several beautiful parroquets, the plumage of which was chiefly
+green; the heads were black, and some of the pinion feathers yellow.
+The country presented very little appearance of grass, though
+abounding with green scrub; and frequently we passed over denuded
+hills of limestone-rock, from which we beheld the sea on one side,
+and on the other the vast forest of banksias and eucalypti, that
+overspreads the entire country. The river winding among this mass of
+foliage, relieved the eye.
+
+After a walk of two hours we approached the lakes of which we were in
+search, situated in a flat country, and their margins covered with
+tall sedges, it was difficult to obtain a view of the water. Now,
+then, we prepared for action. Behind those tall sedges was probably
+a brood of water-fowl, either sleeping in the heat of the day, or
+carefully feeding in the full security of desert solitude. "Fig! you
+villain! what are you about? are you going to rush into the water,
+and ruin me by your senseless conduct? I have got you now, and here
+you must please to remain quiet. No, you rascal! you need not look
+up to me with such a beseeching countenance, whilst you tremble with
+impatience, eager to have a share in the sport. You must wait till
+you hear my gun. I am now shooting for my dinner, and perhaps for
+yours also, if you will condescend to eat duck, and I dare not allow
+you the pleasure of putting up the game. You understand all this
+well enough, and therefore please to be silent; -- or, observe! I'll
+murder you."
+
+Leaving the boy with the dogs, I began to steal towards the lake,
+when I heard his muttered exclamation, and turning round, saw him
+crouching to the earth and pointing to the sky. Imitating his
+caution, I looked in the direction he pointed out, and beheld three
+large birds leisurely making towards the spot we occupied. They were
+larger than geese, black, with white wings, and sailed heavily along,
+whilst I lay breathlessly awaiting their approach. The dogs were
+held down by the boy, and we all seemed equally to feel the awfulness
+of the moment. The birds came slowly towards us, and then slanted
+away to the right; and then wheeling round and round, they alighted
+upon the lake.
+
+Creeping to the sedges, I pushed cautiously through, up to the ankles
+in mud and water. How those provoking reeds, three feet higher than
+my head, rustled as I gently put them aside! And now I could see
+plainly across a lake of several acres in extent. There on the
+opposite side, were three black swans sailing about, and occasionally
+burying their long necks in the still waters. With gaze riveted upon
+that exciting spectacle, I over-looked a myriad of ducks that were
+reposing within a few yards of me, and which, having discovered the
+lurking danger, began to rise en masse from the lake.
+
+Never before had I seen such a multitude. Struck with amazement, I
+stood idly gaping as they rose before me; and after sweeping round
+the lake, with a few quacks of alarm, whirled over the trees and
+disappeared.
+
+The swans seemed for a moment to catch the general apprehension, and
+one of them actually rose out of the water, but after skimming along
+the surface for a few yards, he sank down again, and his companions
+swam to rejoin him. Gently retreating, I got back upon the dry land,
+and motioning the boy to remain quiet, hastened round the lake to its
+opposite bank. More cautiously than before I entered the grove of
+sedges, and soon beheld two of the swans busily fishing at some
+distance from the shore. What had become of the third? There he is,
+close to the border of the lake, and only about fifty yards from my
+position! My first shot at a swan! -- Now then -- present! fire! --
+bang! What a splutter! The shots pepper the water around him. He
+tries to rise, He cannot! his wing is broken! Hurrah! hurrah! "Here
+Jonathan! Toby! what's your name? here! bring the dogs -- I've hit
+him -- I've done for him!
+
+"Fig, Fig! -- O! here you are; good little dog -- good little fellow!
+now then, in with you! there he is!"
+
+With a cry of delight, little Fig dashed through the reeds. The
+water rushed down his open throat and half-choked him; but he did not
+care. Shaking the water out of his nose as he swam, he whimpered
+with pleasure, and hurried after the swan which was now slowly making
+towards the middle of the lake. Its companions had left it to its
+fate. We stood in the water watching the chase. Jezebel, excited
+out of all propriety, though she could see nothing of what was going
+on, gallopped up and down the bank, with her tail stiff out, tumbling
+over the broken boughs which lay there, and uttering every now and
+then deep barks that awoke the astonished echoes of the woods.
+Sometimes she would make a plunge into the water, splashing us all
+over, and then she quickly scrambled out again, her ardour
+considerably cooled.
+
+"Well done, Fig! good little dog! at him again! never mind that rap
+on the head from his wing."
+
+Away swam the swan, and Fig after him, incessantly barking.
+
+Had not the noble bird been grievously wounded he would have defied
+the utmost exertions of the little spaniel, but as it was, he could
+only get for a moment out of the reach of his pursuer by a violent
+effort, which only left him more exhausted. And now they approached
+the shore; and the swan, hard pressed, turns round and aims a blow
+with its bill at the dog.
+
+This Fig managed to elude, and in return made a snap at his enemy's
+wing, and obtained a mouthful of feathers; but in revenge he received
+on his nose a rap from the strong pinion of the bird that made him
+turn tail and fairly yelp with anguish. "Never mind, brave Fig! good
+dog! at him again! Bravo -- bravo! good little fellow!" There he
+is, once more upon him. And now, master Fig, taught a lesson by the
+smart blows he had received, endeavours to assail only the wounded
+wing of the swan. It was a very fierce combat, but the swan would
+probably have had the best of it had not loss of blood rendered him
+faint and weak.
+
+He still fought bravely, but now whenever he missed his adversary,
+his bill would remain a moment in the water, as though he had
+scarcely strength to raise his head; and as he grew momentarily
+weaker and weaker, so Fig waxed more daring and energetic in his
+assaults; until at length he fairly seized his exhausted foe by the
+neck, and notwithstanding his struggles, and the violent flapping of
+his long unwounded wing, began to draw him towards the shore. We
+hurried to meet and help him. Jezebel was the first that dashed
+breast-high into the water; and seizing a pinion in her strong jaws,
+she soon drew both the swan and Fig, who would have died rather than
+let go, through the yielding sedges to the land.
+
+The swan was soon dead; and Fig lay panting on the sand, with his
+moth open, and looking up to his master as he wagged his tail,
+clearly implying, "Did not I do it well, master?" "Yes, my little
+dog, you did it nobly. And now you shall have some of this bread, of
+Simon's own baking, which I cannot eat myself; and Jonathan and I
+will finish this flask of brandy and water."
+
+And now we set out on our return home, anxious to display our trophy
+to envious eyes.
+
+As we approached the Cantonment, I discharged my unloaded barrel at a
+bird like a thrush in appearance, called a Wattle-bird, from having
+two little wattles which project from either side of its head.
+
+The salute was answered by a similar discharge from the Cantonment,
+and soon afterwards Meliboeus came running to meet us, preceded by
+the blood-hound at full gallop. The dogs greeted one another with
+much apparent satisfaction. Little Fig was evidently anxious to
+inform his big friend of all that he had done, but Nero was much too
+dignified and important to attend to him, and bestowed all his notice
+upon Jezebel.
+
+The fishermen had succeeded in catching a dozen mullet, which were
+all ready for cooking; and the frying-pan being soon put in
+requisition, we were speedily placed at table.
+
+Being still without legitimate knives and forks, the absence of the
+latter article was supplied by small forked-sticks, cut from a
+neighbouring peppermint tree. Those who did not like cold water
+alone were allowed grog; and the entertainment, consisting of fish
+and boiled pork (which a few months before we should have considered
+an utter abomination), being seasoned with hunger, went off with
+tolerable satisfaction.
+
+The following day we had the swan skinned and roasted, but it
+certainly was not nearly so good as a Michaelmas goose.
+Nevertheless, it was a change from boiled pork, and we endeavoured to
+think it a luxury. Simon had been more successful in his latter
+efforts at baking, and, on the whole, things assumed a more
+comfortable aspect.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 6.
+
+PERTH -- COLONIAL JURIES.
+
+So soon as we were well settled in our new abode, we began to think
+of pushing our researches a little farther into the country. We
+thought it high time that we visited the capital, and paid our
+respects to the Governor. About a mile and a half from our location,
+the Fremantle and Perth road crosses the river (which is there about
+four hundred yards wide) by a ferry. John-of-the-Ferry, the lessee
+of the tolls, the Charon of the passage, is a Pole by birth, who
+escaped with difficulty out of the hands of the Russians; and having
+the fortune to find an English master, after a series of adventures
+entered into the employment of an emigrant, and settled in Western
+Australia. He had now become not only the lessee of the ferry, but a
+dealer in various small articles, and at the time to which I refer,
+was the owner of several Timor ponies. Singular enough for a
+horse-dealer and a colonist, John had the reputation of being an
+honest man, and his customers always treated him with the utmost
+confidence.
+
+Having learnt his good character, we repaired to his neat,
+white-washed cottage on the banks of the river to inspect his stud;
+and soon effected a purchase of two of his ponies. These animals,
+about thirteen hands high, proved to belong to the swiftest and
+hardiest race of ponies in the world. They required no care or
+grooming; blessed with excellent appetites, they picked up their food
+wherever they could find any, and came night and morning to the door
+to receive their rations of barley, oat-meal, bread-crusts, or any
+thing that could be spared them. The colony had been supplied with
+several cargoes of these ponies from Timor, and they proved extremely
+useful so long as there was a scarcity of horses; but afterwards they
+became a nuisance, and tended greatly to keep back improvements in
+the breed of horses. Pony-stallions suffered to roam at large,
+became at length such an evil, that special acts of Council were
+passed against them; and as these did not prove of sufficient
+efficacy, the animals were sometimes hunted like wild cattle, and
+shot with rifles.
+
+It was some amusement to us to break in our small quadrupeds to draw
+my light cart; we had brought out tandem-harness; and in a short time
+we got up a very fair team. But, alas! there was no pleasure in
+driving in that neighbourhood -- the road being only a track of deep
+sand. One bright and tempting morning the doctor and myself mounted
+our steeds, and leaving our affairs at the castle in the faithful
+charge of Meliboeus, wended our way towards the capital of the
+colony. The river at the ferry has a picturesque appearance,
+precipitous rocks forming its sides, and two bays, a mile apart,
+terminating the view on either hand, where the river winds round
+projecting head-lands.
+
+The old road to Perth was truly a miserable one, being at least six
+inches deep in sand the whole way. It was scarcely possible to see
+more than fifty yards ahead of you, so thickly grew the banksia
+trees. After crossing the ferry, we lost sight of the river for
+several miles, and then diverged from the dismal road by a path which
+we had been directed by the ferryman to look out for, and which
+brought us to a sandy beach at the bottom of a beautiful bay, called
+Freshwater Bay. From this point to the opposite side was a stretch of
+several miles, and the broad and winding river, or rather estuary,
+with its forest banks, presented a beautiful appearance.
+
+We now ascended from the shore to the high land above. The forest
+through which we passed resembled a wild English park; below was the
+broad expanse of Melville water, enlivened by the white sails of
+several boats on their way from Perth to Fremantle. Farther on, the
+mouth of the Canning River opened upon us; and now we could see, deep
+below the high and dark hill-side on which we travelled, the narrow
+entrance from Melville water into Perth water. At length we obtained
+a full view of the picturesquely situated town of Perth.
+
+It stands on the right bank of a broad and crescent-shaped reach of
+the river Swan, in an extremely well-chosen locality. The streets
+are broad; and those houses which are placed nearest to the river,
+possess, perhaps, the most luxuriant gardens in the world. Every
+kind of fruit known in the finest climates is here produced in
+perfection. Grapes and figs are in profuse abundance; melons and
+peaches are no less plentiful, and bananas and plantains seem to
+rejoice in the climate as their own.
+
+The town has a never-failing supply of fresh water from a chain of
+swamps at the back, and the wells fed by them are never dry. Many of
+the houses are well built -- brick having long since superseded the
+original structure of wood -- and possess all the usual comforts of
+English residences.
+
+In the principal street, most of the houses stand alone, each
+proprietor having a garden, or paddock of three quarters of an acre
+in extent, about his dwelling. The great misfortune of the town is,
+that the upper portion of it is built upon sand, which is many feet
+deep. The streets, not being yet paved, are all but impassable; but
+happily, each possesses a good foot-path of clay, and it is to be
+hoped that the cart-ways will ere long be similarly improved. Sydney
+was originally in the state that Perth presents now; but there the
+natural unfavourableness of the soil has been entirely overcome.
+Increasing wealth and population will ere long do as much for us.
+
+It is not until we reach Guildford, eight miles farther inland than
+Perth, that the stratum of sand ceases, and a cold and marly clay
+succeeds, which reaches to the foot of the Darling range of hills,
+and extends many miles down the coast.
+
+The banks of the Swan River, as well as of the Canning and most other
+rivers of the colony, contain many miles of rich alluvial soil,
+capable of growing wheat sufficient for the support of a large
+population. Many of these flats have produced crops of wheat for
+sixteen years successively, without the aid of any kind of manure.
+It must, however, be owned, that a very slovenly system of farming
+has been generally pursued throughout the colony; and, in fact, is
+commonly observable in all colonies. The settlers are not only apt
+to rely too much upon the natural productiveness of the soil, but
+they are in general men whose attention has only lately been turned
+to agriculture, and who are almost entirely ignorant of practical
+farming in its most important details. The Agricultural Society of
+Western Australia has for some years exerted itself to improve this
+state of things, and has in some measure succeeded.
+
+It must be observed that with the exception of the rich flats of the
+Swan and Canning rivers, the vast extent of country between the coast
+and the Darling Hills is a miserable region, scarcely more valuable
+for the purposes of cultivation than the deserts of Africa, except
+where occasional swamps appear like oases, and tempt the hardy
+settler to found a location. As all the worst land of the colony
+lies unfortunately near the coast, those who visit only the port and
+capital usually leave the country with a very unfavourable and a very
+erroneous impression of its real character.
+
+It is not until the granite range of the Darling Hills is passed
+over, that the principal pastoral and agricultural districts are
+found. There are the farm settlements, the flocks, and herds of the
+colony. From the Victoria plains north of Toodyay, for hundreds of
+miles to the southward, comprising the fertile districts of Northam,
+York, Beverley, the Dale and the Hotham, is found a surface of stiff
+soil, covered over with straggling herbage, and many varieties of
+trees and shrubs. But I am travelling too fast: I must pause for
+the present at Perth.
+
+Circumstances determined me to take up my residence there, instead of
+accompanying the rest of my party into the interior, as I had
+originally intended. I liked the appearance and situation of the
+town; and I liked the people generally. And here I may state, with
+many kindly feelings, that never was a more united or cordial society
+than that of the town of Perth, with its civil and military officers,
+and its handful of merchants. No political or religious differences
+have hitherto disturbed its harmony; nor have there yet been
+introduced many of those distinctions which may be necessary and
+unavoidable in large communities, but which, though generally to be
+met with in all societies, are not only lamentable but highly
+ridiculous in small out-of-the-way colonies. Such divisions,
+however, must be apprehended even here in progress of time, and the
+period will come when we shall look back with regret to those days
+when we were all friends and associates together, and when each
+sympathized with the fortunes of his neighbour. The kindly feeling
+which thus held society together, was ever manifested at the death of
+one of its members. Then not only the immediate connexions of the
+deceased attended his funeral, but every member of his circle, and
+many also of the lower classes. It has more than once happened that
+a young man has fallen a victim to his rashness and nautical
+inexperience, and met with an untimely fate whilst sailing on
+Melville water. I myself twice narrowly escaped such a calamity, as
+perhaps I may hereafter narrate. Every boat belonging to the place
+is immediately engaged in search of the body, and many of the boatmen
+freely sacrifice their time and day's wages in the pursuit. And when
+at length the object of that melancholy search is discovered, and the
+day of the funeral has arrived, the friends, companions, neighbours,
+and fellow-townsmen of the deceased assemble at the door of his late
+residence, to pay the last testimonies of sympathy and regret for him
+who has, in that distant colony, no nearer relative to weep at his
+grave. It is a long procession that follows the corpse to its home,
+passing with solemn pace through the else deserted streets, and
+emerging into the wild forest which seems almost to engulph the town;
+and then pursuing the silent and solitary path for a mile until, on
+the summit of a hill, surrounded by dark ever-green foliage, appears
+the lonesome burial-ground. Ah! how little thought the tenant of
+that insensible body, late so full of life and vigour, that here he
+should so soon be laid, far from the tombs of his family, far from
+the home of his parents, to which his thoughts had so constantly
+recurred! I do not think any one ever witnessed the interment in
+that solitary place of one whom perhaps he knew but slightly when
+living, without feeling in himself a sensation of loneliness, as
+though a cold gust from the open grave had blown over him. It is
+then we think most of England and home -- and of those who though
+living are dead to us.
+
+But these are only transient emotions; they are idle and unavailing,
+so away with them!
+
+I shall now proceed to give an account of my first appearance before
+a colonial public. Some of the crew of our vessel, exasperated by
+the conduct of the captain, who refused to allow them any liberty on
+shore after their long voyage, and encouraged and even led on by the
+chief mate, had broken into the store-room, and consumed a quantity
+of spirits and other stores. Now as we had been most shabbily
+treated by the miserly and ruffian captain, and as the stores thus
+stolen had been paid for by the passengers, and withheld from them
+upon the voyage (stolen, in fact, by the captain himself), we were
+delighted with the robbery, and extremely sorry to hear that the
+chief mate had been committed to prison for trial as the principal
+offender. In fact, the captain thought proper to wink at the conduct
+of the others, as he could not afford to part with any more of his
+crew. The General Quarter Sessions drew nigh, and the day before
+they commenced I received a kind of petition from the prisoner,
+entreating me to aid him at this pinch, as he had not a friend in
+that part of the world, and would inevitably be ruined for what he
+considered rather a meritorious action -- taking vengeance on the
+stinginess of the captain. Though I did not see exactly of what
+benefit I could be to him, I repaired to the court-house on the day
+of trial. It was crowded with people, as such places always are when
+prisoners are to be tried; and as I had met at dinner most of the
+magistrates on the Bench, I did not much like the idea of making my
+first public appearance before them as a friend of the gentleman in
+the dock, who had improperly appropriated the goods of his employer.
+
+The amiable desire, however, of paying off old scores due to the
+captain, annihilated every other feeling; and when the prisoner, on
+being asked whether he was guilty or not guilty of the felony laid to
+his charge, instead of answering, cast his imploring eyes upon me, as
+though I knew more of the business than himself, I could not refrain
+from advancing towards the table occupied by the counsel and
+solicitors, and asking permission of the bench to give my valuable
+assistance to the prisoner. This being graciously accorded, the
+mate, with a most doleful countenance, and a very unassured voice,
+made answer to the plain interrogative of the Clerk of Arraigns --
+"Not guilty, my Lord."
+
+Whilst the prosecutor was being examined by the Advocate General, I
+conned over the indictment with a meditative countenance, but without
+being able to see my way in the least. The captain, scowling
+atrociously at me and my persecuted friend, gave his evidence with
+the bitterest animosity. He proved his losses, and the facts of the
+store-room door having been broken open, and the prisoner and most of
+the sailors being found drunk by him on his repairing one evening to
+the vessel. It now became my turn to ask questions, as
+
+Prisoner's Counsel. Your ship, Captain W., is commonly called a
+Temperance ship, is it not?
+
+Captain (after a ferocious stare). I should think you knew that.
+
+P. Counsel. And being a temperance ship, you do not allow the men,
+at any time, any other liquor than water?
+
+Captain. No.
+
+P. Counsel. In temperance ships, I suppose it sometimes happens that
+the men contrive to buy liquor for themselves?
+
+Captain (looking like a bull about to charge a matadore). Boo!
+
+P. Counsel. Do you remember the day we were off Madeira?
+
+Captain stares and snorts.
+
+P. Counsel. Do you remember on that day several of the sailors being
+remarkably light-headed -- reeling about the deck?
+
+Captain (roaring, and striking the table with his hand). Yes!
+
+P. Counsel. Was this the effect of a 'coup de soleil', do you think?
+
+Captain. No!
+
+P. Counsel. Very well. Do you remember, whilst we were on the Line,
+the second-mate being in your cabin helping Mrs. W. to stow away some
+things in the lazarette, and both being found afterwards extremely
+unwell, and obliged to be taken to bed?
+
+Chairman (interfering). I think the witness need not answer that question.
+
+Advocate General. I should have made the same objection, Sir, but --
+(aside) I was laughing too much.
+
+P. Counsel. Very well, Sir. I will not press it if it be
+disagreeable. Do you remember at St. Jago the whole of the crew
+being every day notoriously drunk -- from eating water-melons?
+
+Captain (recovering from an apoplectic fit). Ah-h!
+
+P. Counsel. Do you remember, when off the Cape, the sail-maker and
+several others being unable to do their duty, and being pronounced by
+the doctor to be in a state of liquor?
+
+Captain. Yes.
+
+P. Counsel. Then, as it appears that on board of a temperance ship,
+men do occasionally (and in your vessel very often) get drunk, might
+not the prisoner at the time of his alleged offence have been
+drinking other liquor than that which formed part of your stores?
+
+Chairman (the Captain being too full of rage to articulate). The
+jury will be able to draw their own inference as to that.
+
+Captain. It was he, gentlemen; it was this -- gentleman (forsooth --
+ha! ha!) who gave the men money on landing in order to make them
+drunk.
+
+P. Counsel. Thank you for that evidence. The intelligent gentlemen
+in the box will perceive that it was at my expense that the
+unfortunate prisoner got drunk, and not at the captain's.
+
+The prosecutor was now permitted to retire, which he did growling
+like a bear, amid the jeers of the populace, who always sympathize
+with misfortune when it appears impersonated in the dock.
+
+The jury were also evidently in high glee, and cast most friendly
+looks at the prisoner, and the 'fidus Achates' who stood up for him
+so stoutly.
+
+The next witness was the sail-maker, who reluctantly owned himself to
+have aided the prisoner in drinking some brandy which had come from
+the ship's stores.
+
+P. Counsel. But, Sails, you do not mean to say that the prisoner
+told you he had himself taken it from the ship's stores?
+
+Witness. Oh no, Sir, certainly not.
+
+P. Counsel. In fact, of your own knowledge, you do not know where
+the liquor came from?
+
+Witness. No, Sir; oh, no, Sir!
+
+Here the Advocate-General administered such a lecture to the witness,
+who was considerably more than half-drunk at the time, that he
+entirely lost his wits and memory, and answered so completely at
+random, that the jury begged he might not be asked any more questions.
+
+Advocate General. It is of no importance. I shall call no more
+witnesses, as I hold in my hand the prisoner's own confession, made
+before the committing magistrate, who was yourself, Mr. Chairman.
+
+This was a knock-down blow to me, and made the jury look extremely
+blank. They gazed on one another in despair. The document was duly
+proved, and the case for the prosecution closed. The chairman asked
+if I wished to address the jury, but I declined, and observed that
+the prisoner must explain for himself what he meant by this
+extraordinary confession. Every thing seemed dead against the
+prisoner, who hung his head and looked remarkably simple. I read
+over the paper, which stated that he, the prisoner, with several
+others, on a certain day took a quantity of the captain's brandy, and
+got drunk thereupon.
+
+A ray of hope beamed upon me. I started up, and the jury
+instinctively began to brighten; they had given up the prisoner as
+lost, and now they were ready to catch at a straw. I addressed the
+unfortunate "You state here, that you took the captain's brandy with
+certain of the sailors. Do you mean by that, you 'partook' of the
+brandy which other sailors were drinking?"
+
+Prisoner (balbutiant). I -- I -- ye -- ye --
+
+P. Counsel. What do you really mean, Sir, by this written document?
+Do you mean to say that you yourself took this brandy, or that you
+partook of it with others?
+
+Prisoner. Yes, Sir, -- that I partook of it.
+
+P. Counsel. Then, gentlemen of the jury, this document does not
+convict the unfortunate man at the bar; and what appears like an
+admission of guilt is only to be attributed to his imperfect mode of
+expressing himself. He admits that he partook of certain brandy
+stated to be the captain's, which the captain, himself, however,
+would lead you to suppose had been provided by me. The witness who
+has been examined throws no further light upon the matter; and though
+the prisoner himself has admitted that he partook of liquor which he
+believed belonged to the captain, that admission does not convict him
+under the present indictment, which charges him with having
+"feloniously taken and carried away," etc.
+
+The jury were evidently delighted with this construction; and the
+people in the gallery and body of the court could scarcely be
+restrained from giving three cheers.
+
+The chairman recapitulated the evidence, and left the matter in the
+hands of the jury, who jostled one another out of the box, and
+retired to "consider their verdict." As they passed through the
+ante-room to the apartment in which they usually held their solemn
+deliberations, they caught up a bucket of water which the bailiff of
+the court generally kept at hand for thirsty counsel or magistrates;
+and as soon as they had decently secluded themselves, and indulged in
+a genial fit of merriment, the foreman produced a bottle of brandy
+from his pocket, and seizing the pannikin which floated in the
+bucket, poured forth a good libation, and drank "towards all
+present." Each juryman in turn then drank the health of the foreman.
+After that, they all drank the prisoner's health; and as one of the
+number afterwards assured me, they would have conscientiously toasted
+the prisoner's counsel, but the liquor unfortunately failed.
+
+The foreman then said, "Come, my lads, there's no more left, so we
+may as well go back again." So they jostled one another out of the
+room, and with composed countenances returned to the court, where
+they were ostentatiously conducted to their box by the sheriff's
+officer amid loud cries of "Silence in the court! silence there!"
+
+Their names having been called over, the Clerk of Arraigns asked the
+usual question, "Have you considered your verdict, gentlemen?"
+
+"Not guilty!" interrupted the foreman, as if he feared lest the
+prisoner should be convicted in spite of the jury.
+
+"How say you," continued the clerk, "is the prisoner at the bar
+guilty or not guilty?"
+
+"Not guilty!" cried the whole jury to a man; and amid thunders of
+acclamations the prisoner was released from the dock, and turned out
+of court, where he was seized upon by a multitude of sympathizers,
+and carried in triumph to the next public-house. There he spent the
+ensuing four-and-twenty hours, the hero of the day.
+
+In this slight sketch I am conscious that I have only been able to
+convey to the reader a very faint idea of
+A COLONIAL JURY.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 7.
+
+BOATING UP THE RIVER.
+
+Whilst I was making acquaintances at Perth, my brothers, mounted on
+our Timor steeds, were making a tour of inspection beyond the Darling
+Hills. They fixed at length upon a farm at York, with about three
+thousand acres belonging to it, and having a good farm-house, with
+excellent barn and out-buildings attached. This evinced a more
+comfortable and luxurious state of things than they had anticipated,
+and they returned in high spirits to head-quarters.
+
+It now became necessary to consider how the various goods and
+utensils were to be conveyed to the new settlement, which was seventy
+miles distant from Fremantle. We sold most of our flour and pork at
+a fair profit, and left by far the greater part of the other articles
+which we had brought out with us to be sold by a commission agent, as
+opportunity offered.
+
+ From various causes, but chiefly from our own ignorance in selecting
+our goods in London, we lost a considerable sum upon the things we
+had brought out. Emigrants, unless they are men of great experience,
+should bring all their capital to a colony in bills or specie, and
+not attempt to increase their property by speculating in goods. On
+their arrival, they will most probably find the markets already
+glutted, and they will be compelled either to sell at a sacrifice, or
+leave their effects in the hands of an agent, who will charge
+enormously for warehouse-rent and other expenses, and will take
+especial care that the unfortunate emigrant is not the party who
+profits most by the sale of his goods.
+
+We had brought out with us an old artillery waggon; and all hands now
+set to work to put it together, which was accomplished after a good
+deal of difficulty. We also purchased three pair of bullocks, which
+were at that date very dear. One pair -- magnificent animals
+certainly -- cost fifty guineas, and the other animals twenty pounds
+a-piece. Now, however, the best working bullocks may be obtained for
+about fifteen pounds a pair. As the road so far as Guildford was
+excessively heavy, we resolved to convey most of our goods by water
+to a spot a few miles beyond that town, where a friendly settler had
+placed at our disposal a wooden building, consisting of a single
+room, situated on the banks of the river, and used occasionally by
+himself as a store-house for his own goods on their transit to his
+dwelling. The same friend lent us his own whale-boat; and by
+determining to convey our effects ourselves we avoided a very heavy
+expense. The cost of conveying necessaries from the coast to the
+farm settlements in the interior, has been one of the chief drawbacks
+to the colony. The boatmen made fortunes, whilst the farmers were
+nearly ruined by their charges, and those of the storekeepers in the
+towns.
+
+For fifteen years, at least, the latter have grumbled with violent
+indignation unless their goods have realised from two to five hundred
+per cent profit. Resolved, therefore, to be our own boatmen, we
+moored our vessel at a little wooden jetty below our house, and began
+to pack up such articles as were designed to compose the first cargo.
+
+I remember well the pleasure with which we stood upon that wooden
+jetty one summer's evening, looking upon the boat in which we were to
+perform our first voyage up the river, as she lightly floated before
+us, scarcely giving a strain upon the rope which held her to one of
+the posts at the end of the pier. Fig and Jezebel, always intimate
+friends, were hunting for bandicoots -- animals less than a
+kangaroo-rat -- which abounded in the bank below our dwelling.
+
+Upon this bank, Hannibal was to be seen cleaning the tandem harness,
+suspended from the bough of a tree, and occasionally casting an eye
+in the direction of the sheep, for whose safety he was responsible.
+By the river side, our bullocks were busily engaged picking the
+scanty herbage. The sea-breeze blowing steadily up the river cooled
+the air, and seemed to bear health and spirits on its wings.
+
+The only sound that met the ear was a rushing noise, which every now
+and then rose from the water along the shore. It was caused by
+myriads of little fish rushing into shoal water to escape from
+some pressing foe.
+
+There are some minds that draw pleasure from things which in no
+degree affect others; to such, this was one of those seasons of
+tranquil happiness that leave no regrets behind. The consciousness
+of independence -- the pleasant nature of our duties -- the cheerful
+aspect of all around -- the flattering whispers of Hope, though false
+as usual -- all helped to form for the mental eye a picture which it
+loved to look upon.
+
+And now we were busied in loading our boat. What pride we felt! no
+shame at being seen performing manual labour; but pride, and
+pleasure, and exultation. We had always been fond of boating, and
+now that it was about to be an useful employment, it seemed
+additionally agreeable. And what a noble scene for this our first
+adventurous voyage, upon that broad river or rather arm of the sea!
+We had found out the secret of human happiness, long hidden from us
+-- business had become our pleasure. I was to be the captain, and my
+youngest brother and Simon composed the crew.
+
+The boat was not loaded until late in the afternoon, and our
+departure was therefore postponed until the sea-breeze should set in
+on the following day. Still, we could not resist the delight of
+making an experimental trip, and so the sprit-sail and jib were set,
+and we shoved off into the tide-way. A whale-boat goes very fast
+before the wind, but will not beat, nor will she go about well
+without using an oar; she is not, therefore the craft best adapted
+for nautical evolutions, but we were too happy to find much fault
+with her on that occasion; and so we sailed several times across the
+river and back again in the very height of enjoyment. Then suddenly
+luffing up in the middle of the stream, the anchor was let go, and
+the sail brailed up, in order that we might have the pleasure of
+sitting still in the very midst of the waters, and rest, as it were,
+in the plenitude of our satisfaction; and when the anchor dragged a
+few yards over the sand before it held, and then suddenly brought up
+the boat with a jerk, it seemed the climax of our pleasure. This,
+the sagacious reader, in the depth of his gravity, will consider
+extremely boyish. But should we not rejoice and be thankful whenever
+we find among the many simple pleasures of our boyhood, a single one
+which retains the power of gladdening our maturer years? Alas! one
+after another they die down, and are no more to be revived. We are
+apt to fancy that when the pleasures of youth have lost their
+sweetness, and are no longer desired, it is an evidence of our
+increasing wisdom. But it proves only that our tastes, grown more
+vitiated, have taken new directions. We have only changed our
+follies -- and for the worse.*
+
+
+[footnote] *"'Tis sweet to think we grow more wise
+When Radcliffe's page we cease to prize,
+And turn to Malthus, and to Hervey,
+For tombs, or cradles topsy-turvy;
+'Tis sweet to flatter one's dear self,
+And altered feelings vaunt, when pelf
+Is passion, poetry, romance; --
+And all our faith's in three per cents."
+                     R. R. Madden
+
+
+The breeze! the breeze! the glorious sea-breeze comes stealing
+swiftly over the bar; it crosses the first bay. Like a dark shadow
+it moves along the face of the river, and now it has reached our
+landing-place and gone swiftly forwards, bringing pleasure and
+thankfulness on its path. Now, my men, jump in! hand me the grog and
+provision basket -- and now loose the sails, and shove off. There,
+we are fairly under weigh, and little Fig whimpers his adieu to
+Jezebel and Nero, who for some minutes accompany the course of the
+boat along the shore; and then finding we are really going, remain
+fixed with astonishment, gazing upon their departing friend. Soon,
+how soon, vanishes from their breasts every feeling of regret!
+Before we have turned the first headland we perceive them playfully
+biting each other about the ears and neck: and now Nero scampers off
+under the trees in the direction of the house, and Jezebel (type of
+her sex!) hurries after him.
+
+The breeze came rattling up the river, and the boat flew merrily
+before it. We had occasionally sailed to Perth in the passage-boats,
+and therefore knew something of the channel. Sand-spits frequently
+run far out into the river, and those who think only of steering a
+straight course, are very sure of running aground several times
+during the voyage.
+
+The distance from Fremantle to Perth, by water, is about twelve
+miles, and it is about as many more from Perth to Guildford. After
+passing the ferry-reach, the river appeared about a quarter of a mile
+broad, having abrupt rocky banks on either side; far a-head was the
+wooded bottom of Freshwater Bay. Instead of coasting round this bay,
+we passed through a channel cut across the spit into Melville water.
+Here is a beautiful site for a house: a sloping lawn, covered with
+fine peppermint trees, which in form resemble the weeping willow, and
+a great variety of flowering shrubs, down to the water's edge. The
+view from the house (lately the seat of Alfred Waylen, Esq.) is
+exceedingly pleasing; on one hand is the fine sheet of Melville
+water, seven miles in extent, and three or four in breadth,
+surrounded by thick woods; in front is the graceful curve of
+Freshwater Bay; and on the opposite side of the house from Melville
+water, the river sweeps abruptly round through the deep and broad
+channel I have already mentioned towards the ferry-reach.
+
+We passed up Melville water, and in about an hour and a quarter after
+starting came abreast of the town of Perth, which we left about
+three-quarters of a mile on our larboard side, and continued our
+passage up Perth water. We had now a difficult channel to pass
+through, where the river is extremely shoal; and in our inexperience
+we soon got the boat aground. Jumping into the water, we succeeded
+in shoving her again into the channel, and passed by a small island
+called Harrison's Island. It was here that a French exploring party
+took refuge after they had come so far up the river in spite of many
+alarms. These men were some of the crew of Captain Perron, who was
+engaged in a survey of this part of the coast of Australia, for the
+French Government. During the night they were thrown into a state of
+agitation and alarm by hearing incessant noises in the thick woods on
+the main land, that were thought by some to be the bellowing of wild
+bulls; by many the howling of wolves; and by others the cries of
+savages. After a night spent in momentary expectation of attack and
+massacre, the Frenchmen got into their boats and hastened down the
+river again with the utmost expedition, and scarcely thought
+themselves quite safe until they were once more on board their ship.
+
+This account of the French navigators was uppermost in the minds of
+the English settlers on their first arrival, and contributed greatly
+to the dread they felt at wandering a few yards from the settlement.
+In those days, an orderly scarcely durst take a message from the
+Governor to the Surveyor General's tent, within sight, unless
+accompanied by a couple of his fellows, with their muskets ready for
+action.
+
+The borders of the river were in many parts, especially on the
+present town site of Perth, so entangled with thick brushwood, that
+enemies might be lying in swarms, close at hand, without the least
+fear of detection. When Sir James Stirling and his party first
+passed up the river in boats, they had the accounts of the French
+sailors fully in mind, and were very cautious how they landed. They
+passed the night in a state of preparation, if not of alarm, and were
+kept in constant vigilance by the same fearful noises.
+
+The woods were now supposed to be filled with wild beasts, and it was
+not until some time had elapsed that people became convinced that the
+dreadful sounds which assailed their ears at night proceeded from
+myriads of frogs. These little creatures swarm in the samphire
+marshes near the river, and possess voices far surpassing anything
+known in their species in Europe.
+
+I was once looking out for ducks or coots in a thicket of bulrushes
+higher than my head, when I was startled by hearing a loud "bomb!" at
+no great distance from me. Having no idea what kind of wild beast
+had made its lair in that dense thicket, I got ready to fire both
+barrels on the first appearance of danger. Again the same awful
+noise! It must be the snorting of a bison, or vast buffalo, seeking
+shelter from the sun -- or it may proceed from some kind of
+water-dragon, I thought. I looked in every direction, but could see
+no living creature; and at last was about to retreat in the quietest
+manner possible, when I espied a little frog perched on the top of a
+reed, about a yard from my nose, and apparently looking full in my
+face, whilst, ever and anon he inflated his cheeks, and uttered the
+fearful sounds I had heard.
+
+But besides the dread of wild beasts, the colonists were long in the
+greatest apprehension of losing themselves in the vast wilderness of
+forest by which they were on every side enclosed. The country being
+extremely level, up to the Darling range of hills, which is seen
+trending north and south about twelve or fourteen miles at the back
+of Perth, a man once in the woods has no object but the sun by which
+to direct his course. Every now and then he comes upon an impassable
+swamp, which throws him out of his track, and causes him infinite
+difficulty before he can get round it, and then he begins to doubt of
+his true direction. This is certainly, an awkward predicament; and
+nothing is so easy as for inexperienced bushmen to lose their way.
+When once a man begins to doubt whether he is right, he loses all
+confidence in himself; he wanders first in one direction and then in
+another, in the hope of finding something to guide him; and fears
+lest every step should take him farther into the labyrinth of the
+forest-wilderness. I have myself been several times lost for a short
+period, and know how very unpleasant is the sensation. A common
+soldier, sent on a message from Perth to Fremantle, happened to get
+off the track. Becoming alarmed, he tried to recover it, but as it
+had made a bend, he walked as far as he thought its position ought to
+be, without success, and then fancied he must have mistaken the
+direction. He therefore diverged at right angles, and after walking
+a short time, recollected that he must now be going in the wrong
+direction, as he had left the path originally on his left hand.
+Accordingly he turned back again, and walked so far without
+perceiving any signs of the track that he now fancied he must be
+going parallel with it. Had he gone on a few yards father, all would
+have been right, but now he really took a parallel course, and after
+walking for some time longer, he again turned back, and walked in
+another direction. Now this man had the sea on one side of him, and
+the river on the other, at most not more than four miles apart; yet
+the dread of having walked back into the wilderness behind Perth
+overpowered his faculties, and he walked for hours in a circle of
+about half a mile in diameter. He might have considered that the
+Darling Hills were behind Perth, and must have brought him up, but
+reason does not always act freely at these times. At length,
+completely exhausted, he sat down at the foot of a tree, where he
+remained all night, expecting death from starvation, from the
+natives, or some unknown wild beasts.
+
+The next day he walked again as long as his strength would allow, but
+before night sank down in the extremity of despair. It was not until
+the third day of his misfortunes that he was tracked up by a party
+sent in search of him, and guided by friendly natives, who followed
+his many devious steps with unerring eyes.
+
+Another man, similarly lost in the interior, after vainly trying to
+recover the road, determined to make for the coast, which he knew lay
+to the west. He was also confident that the sun regularly set in
+that quarter, and therefore, he boldly determined to trust himself to
+the guidance of the sun, making sure, that if he followed it far
+enough, it must lead him to the coast at last. Accordingly, he
+marched after the sun till night-fall and then went cheerfully to
+sleep, having supped upon some bread and pork, which he carried with
+him. The next morning, at sunrise, he started off in the direction
+of his guide, perfectly unconscious that he was now retracing his
+steps, and journeying eastward. All day, however, he continued to
+follow the sun, and when it set, wondered that he had not yet reached
+the sea. At night, he finished his bread and pork, and the next
+morning set off again on his long and tedious journey; still, at
+night, there was no appearance of the ocean, and he fired off his gun
+at a black cockatoo, which he killed with his only charge of shot.
+
+Upon this bird he lived for the next two days, and for two more he
+subsisted upon roots. He had now given up all hopes of discovering
+the sea, and had lain down to die, when he was found by his master
+and a party of natives, who had come in search of him.
+
+It appeared that he was found upon almost the very spot on which he
+had first lost himself.
+
+When once a man begins to believe that he is lost in the wilderness,
+he feels as helpless as one who is blind-folded at the game of
+blindman's buff, and who has been twirled round so often, that he has
+no idea whereabouts the door or the fire-place is situated. Those
+who are used to the bush steer their course with almost unerring
+precision by the sun, and a few known objects, but there are numbers
+who never acquire this power. The natives appear to know by instinct
+the direction of every spot they wish to reach; and many white men
+seem to possess the same faculty.
+
+But I have almost forgotten that we are all this time sailing up the
+rive in our whale-boat. It was a very beautiful sail, and we
+repeatedly passed cheerful-looking farm-houses on either bank --
+sometimes goodly mansions with park-like enclosures about them. In
+the afternoon we dined upon cold wild-duck; and as each man sipped
+his grog in his pannikin, we felt so exceedingly cheerful, that Simon
+and Meliboeus favoured the public with "Away with melancholy!" and
+divers other agreeable ditties. The wind however died away, and
+evening set in as we passed Guildford. The banks of the river had
+now risen into steep cliffs, which threw a deep gloom over our
+course. We had furled the sails, and taken to the oars, and as we
+blindly poked our way, we began to think this kind of work was not
+quite so agreeable as it had at first appeared. Nothing was now to
+be seen but the outlines of the steep sides of the river on which
+occasional houses were visible, the light streaming through the
+windows, and making us fancy how comfortable every thing must be
+within, and how pleasant it would be to be sitting at supper in a
+cheerful room, instead of toiling at our oars with blistered hands,
+and without the prospect of a good bed at the end of the voyage.
+
+Romance was gone; the sad reality of life remained. Still we pulled
+along, steering by turns, and doubting and wondering every hundred
+yards whether we had not gone past the place we sought. Sometimes we
+paused on our oars to debate the question, but still we continued to
+push on; till at length we found ourselves close abreast of the
+wooden building we were so anxiously looking out for, and experienced
+a sensation of surprise as well as of delight.
+
+The boat was soon safely moored, and the door of the building
+unlocked; and by the light of a wax taper, which we had brought on
+purpose, we found ourselves in a large empty room, without any
+fire-place. A heap of dead wood was soon collected at the entrance;
+and a glorious fire lighted up the small enclosure which surrounded
+the building, and sufficiently illuminated a considerable portion of
+the room itself. The kettle being put on, we soon had tea ready, and
+managed to get through our rations of bread and pork, not forgetting
+to give little Fig his supper, who sat very seriously before the
+fire, wondering what it all meant.
+
+Cigars, and brandy and water, having been duly administered before
+bed-time, we next proceeded to litter down coats and cloaks; and
+having made ourselves as comfortable as circumstances would admit of,
+stretched ourselves on the floor, with a few sighs and thoughts of
+home, and slept until day-break.
+
+The first thing we did next morning was to unload the boat; and then
+having breakfasted, and secured the door on our effects, we started
+on our homeward trip, and had the satisfaction of pulling the whole
+distance to Perth, where we were obliged to sleep the next night, as
+it was impossible for us to get down Melville water in the teeth of a
+strong sea-breeze.
+
+When we had to start again with another load of goods, our hearts
+were much heavier than on the first excursion.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 8.
+
+FARMS ON THE RIVER.
+
+First impressions endure the longest, and are recalled with most
+pleasure. Further acquaintance does not always give us a truer idea
+of the value of the object, as familiarity frequently makes us
+overlook as insignificant that which is constantly before us. It is
+not the object that is proved to be really less valuable as we become
+better acquainted with it, but our own views which change with our
+position. My first impressions on visiting the various farms, or
+rather gentlemen's residences, on the banks of the Swan, were
+extremely agreeable. I thought nothing could be more delightful than
+to live at one of those picturesque and lovely spots. If the romance
+of that first feeling be now faded from my heart, it is not because I
+have discovered that all which I then saw was an illusion, but
+because a more sober state of mind -- that state into which the mind
+settles as the excitement of sudden change and unwonted novelty
+subsides -- teaches that happiness is not local, and that it is no
+more likely to be found in the finest country residence than in the
+main street of a town.
+
+At the first view we are apt to imagine that people who live in one
+of these pleasant retreats must needs be happier than ourselves, who
+possess nothing but a miserable shilling.
+
+This is the delusion; and when with increasing knowledge, we recover
+from this, we cease to envy and to covet.
+
+My first ride up the Swan was a most delightful one. No park in
+England could be more beautiful than the grounds around some of the
+dwellings.
+
+The ride through the scattered village of Guildford, with a view of
+the rich and extensive flats of Woodbridge, the property of Sir James
+Stirling, and the frequent bends of the river, is a very agreeable
+one. The whole country of the middle and upper Swan resembles a vast
+English park. We passed the pretty country church of the Middle
+Swan, with its modest parsonage beside it, and then proceeded through
+wooded ravines along a pleasant drive to one of the most hospitable
+mansions in the colony. Extensive stables, barns and out-buildings
+occupied the back of the premises. As it was now too late in the
+evening to see much of the surrounding scenery, we entered the house
+of Samuel Moore, Esq., and sat down to an excellent dinner. In the
+evening we had music -- pianos are as common in Western Australia as
+in England. At night I occupied a sofa in the parlour. The
+excitement and novelty of my present situation -- so many thousands
+of leagues removed from the spot on which, only a few months before,
+I had deemed I was to spend my life -- kept me wakeful; and about one
+o'clock I arose, and opening the French window, stepped out into the
+verandah. How solemn was the scene before me, faintly lighted by the
+moon! In front of the house was a pretty sloping garden, and below
+this stretched a broad clearing, now waving with corn, amidst which
+rose up a number of scattered, lofty, dead trees, which had been
+purposely killed by ringing the bark. How mournful they looked in
+that gloomy light!
+
+The river bounded this clearing, and beyond the river stretched its
+high bank, covered with forest trees, the advanced lines, as it were,
+of the vast wilderness which lay behind. From out the depths of
+those woods rose the occasional shrieks of an owl, or other night
+bird, and at intervals the long dismal howl of a wild dog -- the only
+carnivorous animal indigenous in that country. The air was balmy,
+but there was something in the mournful aspect of the scene that
+weighed upon the spirits, and made one feel inexpressibly lonely in
+the midst of that boundless wilderness of forest.
+
+Time soon takes off the edge of novelty, and long ago I have learned
+to feel perfectly at ease and cheerful, whilst lying in the midst of
+much deeper solitude, with no companions but my horse grazing near
+me, and the fire at my feet. There is no country in the world so
+safe for the traveller as Western Australia.
+
+The next day we went over the farm of our host. His best land was on
+the flats at the river side, but his upland, by judicious
+cultivation, is made productive and valuable. A carriage-drive
+extends through the grounds and affords beautiful prospects of the
+river, and of the estates through which it runs; and on the other
+side, of the Darling Hills. The hedge-rows on this property are
+planted with olive, almond, and peach trees -- an admirable policy,
+which ought to be adopted throughout Australia. In a few years --
+for the olive bears fruit much sooner here than in the south of
+Europe -- a valuable traffic in olive-oil may be expected from this
+colony.
+
+The ingenious gentleman who owns this property (which is, in point of
+soil, one of the worst farms on the Swan) continues annually to add
+to its value by his persevering system of improvement. He has had a
+steam-engine constructed on his own premises, and under his personal
+superintendence; and he grinds his own flour as well as that of his
+neighbours.
+
+The neighbouring estate of W. L. Brockman, Esq., is a more valuable
+property, and equally attractive in possessing a well-cultivated
+farm, a beautiful situation, a comfortable residence, and an amiable
+family.
+
+With similar energy and savoir faire, all the beautiful farms on this
+river might be made most enviable residences.
+
+Whilst on the subject of farming, I may mention a reaping-machine
+which has been introduced into this colony from South Australia,
+where it was invented. It is only adapted to a very dry climate, but
+there it is most valuable. A pair of horses push a machine before
+them, which consists of a threshing-machine and a set of revolving
+combs, some six feet wide. These combs, in their revolutions, catch
+up the wheat, and tear off the ears from the stalks, throwing them
+back into the threshing-machine. A field of wheat is thus reaped and
+threshed as fast as the horses can walk over it. The straw is
+afterwards mown.
+
+The roads are hard and good in this neighbourhood, and some of the
+settlers keep their open carriages.
+
+I doubt whether I have conveyed to the reader a just idea of some of
+the pleasantest spots which are to be met with in this colony; but I
+would not have him (full of romantic thoughts and agricultural
+purposes) rush hastily into the mart and sell his substance in order
+to lead a life of tranquil retirement in this distant Eden. It
+requires a good deal of philosophy to make a contented settler. Most
+colonists leave England full of virtuous resolutions -- with bosoms
+glowing with the ardent love of nature; and fully persuaded that they
+need nothing to make them happy but a small farm, beautifully
+situated, with its cottage ornee, and its spreading vines, and a
+noble fig-tree, beneath which they are to sit in the cool of the
+evening, with their little ones around them. All this they may
+really possess; and for some time they are in raptures at the novel
+feeling of being men of landed interest. This is always the first
+ambition of a colonist -- to have some property which he may lawfully
+call his own. And, indeed, the human heart never expands with more
+satisfactory pride than in the breast of him whose territorial
+possessions have hitherto been confined to a few flower-pots in his
+parlour-window, but who now stands firmly beneath a lofty gum-tree,
+and looking round him, murmurs "This is mine!" It is, indeed, a very
+pleasant sensation, but, unfortunately, it is very short-lived.
+
+Men do not come out to a colony to spend an income, but to make a
+living. When once their capital is laid out in the acquisition of a
+farm, and in the necessary purchase of stock, they have to raise
+money out of it to pay their labourers' wages, and find their
+households with tea, sugar, clothing, and "sundries." Many things
+may be grown upon your farm, but not everything. At first, the
+settler is satisfied with finding that he can sell sufficient produce
+to enable him to pay his way, provided he practise the utmost
+economy, and exhibit a reasonable degree of good management.
+
+But soon there are extra expenses to be liquidated; a long illness in
+his family brings him in debt to the doctor; or his neighbour has
+injured him, and he has, thereupon, further injured himself by going
+to law and avenging the wrong. He now becomes discontented, and
+thinks he is as badly off as he was before he left England; or,
+perhaps he may have sustained no losses, and is just able to live on
+his property without getting into debt; he forgets, however, the
+principles on which he came out to settle; he begins to complain that
+he is not making money. It is true he leads an easier life than he
+did in England; he is not striving and struggling for existence as he
+was there, but he is making no money. His wife asks him daily, in
+the pleasantest connubial key, why he brought them all from England,
+to bury them there, and see nobody from morn till night? What, she
+urges, is to become of their children? Will Jonadab, their
+first-born, be a gentleman like his maternal ancestors? -- But how,
+indeed should he, with the pursuits of a cow-boy and the hands of a
+scavenger? It is very well for one who cares nothing for genteel
+society, and whose bearish manners, in fact, unfit him for it, to
+lead such a life; but is she to endure this for ever, and see her
+daughters married to men who wear long beards and Blucher boots?
+
+These incessant attacks at length overthrow the ennobling philosophy
+of the colonist. He knows not where to procure more than he already
+possesses, or he would gladly return to the country of his
+fore-fathers; but alas! he sees no prospect of gaining even a bare
+livelihood there. Without knowing, then, how or where to improve his
+condition, he deplores the penury of his lot, and sighs for wealth
+which he has no prospect of ever obtaining.
+
+My own opinion has ever been that colonists, with few exceptions,
+must always be poor men. They may possess large estates and numerous
+herds; but the more numerous these herds, the less is their
+marketable value: for population and demand can never increase in
+equal ratio with the supply. A man, therefore, who possesses the
+elements of wealth, may still be poor in the article of money.
+
+Nor will his estates produce him more income than his herds; for in
+most cases the only rent which his tenants can afford to pay is in
+kind. 'The only real wealth to a colony is the incessant influx of
+immigration, combining capital and labour.'
+
+There are some of us, happily, who still retain the ancient
+philosophy. We have not thought of pecuniary wealth, and are content
+to live easily, with those moderate blessings which attach to a
+beneficent climate and a simple mode of life.
+
+So very little is required which money can buy, that men seem to be
+annoyed at the fact, and insist upon creating new wants.
+
+A great deal of discontent and repining generally prevails in a
+colony. People who have lived miserably in England, who have long
+doubtfully hovered between suicide and highway robbery, determine at
+length to adopt the still more melancholy alternative of emigration.
+After bequeathing a few tender sighs to the country which they have
+hitherto regarded rather as a step-mother than a parent; and having
+pathetically solicited the sympathy of those who more readily bestow
+upon them a few pounds than a few tears, in the pious hope of never
+seeing them more, our emigrants betake themselves to the favoured
+land of their adoption, in the full and confident belief that they
+have nothing now to do, but live "like gentlemen," though without the
+means, or any other qualifications of that class. Their Faith is of
+that affecting and unlimited description, as to lead them to suppose
+that He who beneficently feeds the ravens will not neglect the rooks
+or the drones.
+
+In a very short time, however, they find that they are no better off
+in the new than they were in the old country. The gum-trees do not
+produce bread, nor the banksias shoulders of mutton; and,
+consequently, their hopes have been miserably disappointed, and they
+loudly proclaim their wants and sorrows in the streets. There are
+unfortunately in all colonies -- those 'refugia peccatorum' -- many
+emigrants of this class, idle and worthless, who have never done
+well, and never will succeed in any part of the world.
+
+A colonial life is not for these men, and we recommend them to pass
+on to some other region as quickly as possible.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 9.
+
+THE MORAL THERMOMETER OF COLONIES.
+
+In the chief town of every colony, there is always agreeable society
+to be found among the resident Government officers, and the other
+principal inhabitants. Many estimable individuals are to be met with
+in all communities; in that in which I have myself resided for some
+years, there are many for whom I entertain the highest regard. I
+hope, therefore, it will not be considered that, in the remarks which
+I am about to make, I am actuated by any ill or invidious feeling, or
+at all allude to individuals. Since I have undertaken the task of
+drawing sketches of colonial life, I must not endeavour to conceal
+any portion of the truth, nor tacitly allow erroneous conclusions to
+be drawn from my remarks.
+
+I have already observed that a good and kindly feeling towards one
+another prevails in this colony among the settlers generally. But I
+must qualify this remark by adding -- in all cases in which
+individual interests are not concerned. There is less perhaps of the
+'spirit of dealing' in this colony than in any other of the British
+empire. Ours is not a mercantile community, and the farm-settlers
+generally are young men of good birth and gentlemanly spirit. Still,
+even here, beyond all question, exists the same odious tendency
+(though less apparent) which prevails more or less in all colonies,
+to advance self-interest on every possible occasion, without being
+deterred by any scruples whatsoever.
+
+When men become emigrants, they leave behind them their relations,
+friends, connexions, and all their old associations, and appear upon
+a new theatre of action, where they have no feelings to consult
+beyond their own personal wishes and interests.
+
+They find themselves suddenly emancipated from all those restraints
+which formerly acted with a salutary influence upon their natural
+inclinations; and having no one near them whose opinion they regard,
+or whom they care to conciliate, they fall rapidly into the belief
+that they have no one to live for but themselves, and, consequently,
+make self the sole guide of all their actions, and sole god of their
+idolatry.
+
+This spirit of 'Yankeeism' is the prevailing spirit of colonies. It
+is the natural consequence of the isolated state in which men feel
+themselves to exist, when they have no longer those less selfish
+motives of action that influenced and regulated their conduct under
+other circumstances. The eye of a parent no longer watches over them
+with approbation or anxiety; and what has a still more powerful
+influence upon their conduct, they are now beyond the observation of
+that circle of friends, relations, and acquaintance, to which they
+had been known from childhood; which had constituted their world, and
+the censure or approbation of which determined their state of
+self-reproach or self-satisfaction. Few men may be trusted far who
+can say, "I am not known here," for these are always the people who
+care least what they do. Good and well-meaning persons will exclaim,
+"Colonists can have very little sense of religion, if they allow
+themselves to act at a distance differently from what they would do
+at home." Those who have more than a theoretical acquaintance with
+mankind, and who are used to look upon them in their undisguised
+selfishness, know well that their sense of religion is greatly
+dependent upon the circumstances in which men find themselves placed.
+We are not speaking of what such and such people would do and feel,
+but of what is really done and felt by thousands.
+
+Besides, I have already premised that it is not every colonist who
+acts on these principles, but that such is the general tendency to
+act in a colony.
+
+We can now understand the origin of that intense selfishness in the
+American character, which has never yet been cast aside, and which,
+in fact, is perpetuated by a republican form of government.
+
+The high and nice sense of honour, the chivalrous generosity, the
+frank acknowledgment of superiority, and the ready devotion of self
+to the interests of others at the call of duty, constituted the
+brightest ornaments of the feudal system, and still glitter (though
+with feebler lustre) among the fragments of that system throughout
+civilized Europe.
+
+The Spirit of Trade, which has shattered feudalism, has impaired the
+brightness of that principle which was the soul of feudalism. Nor
+has religion yet succeeded in supplying the loss. Religion, which is
+the bond between Man and his God, has less influence in regulating
+his dealings with his fellows than Honour, which is the bond between
+man and man.*
+
+
+[footnote] *In making this observation, I refer to the general
+conduct of the World; and am far from intending to say, that honour
+ought to have more influence with mankind than religion. The truly
+religious, a small but sacred band, "do justly, love mercy, and walk
+humbly with God."
+
+
+And when the principle of honour loses its purity, you may be sure
+that the principle of religion is already decayed or dead. Now the
+principle of honour being (so to speak) of human origin, depends
+greatly for existence upon the opinions of men; and when we are
+emancipated from all great regard for those opinions, it almost
+inevitably follows that our sense of honour becomes much impaired;
+and having no longer any fear of censure, we no longer have any
+feeling of shame.
+
+In a colony, then, is most apparent the accursed Spirit of Trade --
+that insidious spirit which undermines the truth of the heart, which
+destroys its most generous impulses, and sneers at every
+manifestation of disinterestedness. The first object of a colonist
+is that of a petty shopkeeper, -- to grasp at every thing which is
+likely to benefit himself, without regard to justice, religion, or
+honour. His own interest is the only guide of his actions, and
+becomes the very soul of his existence. He came out to make a
+fortune, if possible, and he thinks himself justified in using every
+means to this end. Do not suppose that he is a downright villain who
+would commit highway robbery. He would be greatly shocked at such an
+imputation, for his conscience is still too timid for so flagrant a
+crime. He merely follows the golden maxim of 'caveat emptor', and,
+like the petty shopkeeper, thinks he is justified in cheating those
+who are too stupid to look after their own interests, and too
+ignorant or too feeble to enforce their just dues.
+
+When that nice sense of honour which rules the conduct of the
+high-minded gentleman, and makes him scorn to take advantage of the
+ignorance or the necessities of another, ceases to influence, the
+accursed spirit becomes dominant, and men look with suspicion on all
+around them.
+
+It has become the pride and the boast of colonists, as of
+horse-dealers, that they are sharp fellows; that they have cut their
+eye-teeth, and are remarkably wide-awake. These honourable
+distinctions are acknowledged by the simple-minded with alarm. They
+feel like men involved among a mob, and instinctively button up their
+pockets.
+
+The moral thermometer in a colony is lamentably low.
+
+We do not, however, look upon this state of things as irremediable,
+and without hope; on the contrary, we doubt not but the Better Spirit
+will in time resume its pre-eminence, and colonists will be respected
+for their elevated sentiments and high sense of honour, rather than
+for their acuteness in driving a bargain. This evil, which is the
+natural consequence of their present condition as isolated atoms,
+unconnected together by those bonds of mutual respect which confine
+men in older countries, will cease as society becomes re-organized,
+and men feel themselves occupying in a colony the same position, as
+regards obligations and duties, that they would have filled in the
+parent state. As they settle themselves more firmly in their places,
+they will come to feel that respect which ever attaches to the
+character of HOME; and conscious that example is necessary from men
+who occupy prominent positions, a higher tone will insensibly be
+assumed, and the Better Spirit again be diffused throughout all the
+ramifications of society. But to this end, it is most essential that
+every aid should be given that Government has the power to bestow.
+Religious instruction, and that good example which, we may assume, is
+ever afforded to society by the English clergy, are the principal
+instruments to be sought. In Western Australia there are at this
+time only six clergymen, who are scattered over a country many
+hundred miles in extent. Many districts are, unavoidably, entirely
+without the exhortations and offices of a minister. At King George's
+Sound, an important post, no clergyman is seen from one year to
+another. Human beings are born, married, and buried, without a
+minister to baptize, to teach, to bless, or to give consolation in
+their extremity. There is no bishop to consecrate, to watch over, or
+to reprove.*
+
+
+[footnote] *By the munificence of Miss Burdett Coutts, a bishopric
+has been recently founded in South Australia; and the Western Colony
+is for the present to be included in the same diocese. But when it
+is remembered that there is no over-land communication between the
+colonies, and the route by sea occupies about ten days, it must be
+evident that this provision is very inadequate to our wants.
+
+This is a state of things that must be remedied, or moral
+improvements cannot be expected.
+
+The Roman Church has been more thoughtful of her children in this
+colony, there being now settled here a bishop, and about a dozen
+priests of that persuasion -- reason the more for the active
+interference of a Protestant Government to protect the spiritual
+welfare of the Protestant community.
+
+The next most important object is the education of the youth of the
+colony. So soon as ever Government can afford the grant of a few
+hundreds a year, free-schools ought to be established in various
+districts. Such is usually the scarcity of money in a colony, that
+parents cannot afford to bestow even the commonest education upon
+their children. Of course, I allude only to the general condition of
+society; there are individuals who educate their families in a
+judicious and sufficient manner; but the great prevailing want is not
+the less felt and deplored. Boys, the sons of men who have
+themselves been well educated, are early made to supply the place of
+labourers and servants. Hardy and manly in appearance, they are
+naturally rough and uncouth in manner, and unhappily possess no
+mental stores beyond those early principles of gain which have grown
+with their growth. In their anxiety that their sons should do well
+in the world, the parent's first object is to impress upon them the
+necessity of making the most of every thing. Their early powers are
+exercised in selling stores, sheep, cattle, or other produce, and
+they are applauded in proportion to the hard bargain which they have
+driven. If a man, threatened with law proceedings, is compelled to
+sell his whole crop of potatoes at a ruinous loss, our keen and
+knowing youngster glories in the opportunity of making a bargain by
+which he shall profit to the amount of a hundred per cent., though
+the seller return to his agitated family writhing with despair. The
+malleable intellect of our youth is annealed by the Demon of Gain
+upon the anvil of Self-interest.
+
+National education is one of the first objects of a paternal
+government. The course of study ought ever to be adapted to the
+circumstances and position of the scholars. In the first years of a
+colony, the human mind peculiarly exhibits a downward tendency. Few
+men prove themselves in their new condition of life superior or equal
+to the character which they had formerly borne, as pious, learned, or
+humane. The circumstances which formerly so eminently conduced to
+the maintenance of piety, the cultivation of intellect, and the
+exercise of benevolence, no longer exist. Solitary and selfish from
+position, men of naturally generous temper and good disposition, feel
+their hearts contract and shrivel within them. Surrounded by a
+sordid and selfish crew, they find no objects for sympathy, no
+inducements for the increase or the preservation of knowledge, no
+animating impulse to lead them forward in a good cause. Struggling
+for a time in the net which is around them, they at length fall from
+the edge, down into the seething cauldron, and become fused among the
+mass.
+
+'The tendency of colonization is to deteriorate.' The first object
+of Government should therefore be to arrest this impulse, and remedy
+the evil so far as may be accomplished. If the original settlers
+degenerate in their moral condition, their children sink still lower.
+When parents cease to feel the influence of those high and pure
+principles in which they were themselves brought up, they naturally
+forget to inculcate them in the minds of their offspring. What,
+then, are the guides that direct these in their progress through
+life? What can they be but Self-interest, relieved perhaps
+occasionally by a few touches of Good-nature?
+
+The young women inevitably grow up mere creatures of impulse. Where
+are those high qualities which are necessary to give them their
+proper influence over the minds and actions of the other sex? Where
+is that powerful sense of the duties of their calling and position,
+that is necessary to create confidence in the breast of the lover or
+the husband? Where are those unswerving principles which alone can
+keep them, through trial and temptation, in the right way?
+
+Woman, alas! has lost her power, when she ceases to inspire
+veneration and command respect.
+
+It is the interest of every colony, and the duty of every Government,
+to raise the moral character and condition of the people. The
+necessity of this must be forcibly present in the minds of those to
+whom the duties of legislation are intrusted; and as the most obvious
+means of improvement lie in the judicious instruction of the young
+generation, the attention of Government must soon be directed to this
+grand object.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 10.
+
+COUNTRY LIFE.
+
+It is most undeniably true, "that there is no place like England,"
+for men who are in "easy circumstances," and who therefore think no
+more of direct or indirect taxation, and of those multitudinous
+burthens which highly-civilized life imposes, than a besom-maker's
+ass does of the load under which it daily journeys. But how many
+thousands are there (children of sad parents -- Toil and Sorrow) who
+find their utmost efforts scarcely sufficient to keep them out of the
+debtor's prison! Continual gloom fills the chambers of their hearts;
+the sun bestows its cheering rays in vain; and all the gay and
+beautiful influences of the bright world of Nature fail to inspirit
+him whose every energy is directed to the task of raising his family
+beyond the threatening grasp of Want. In his few moments of
+relaxation, when those whom he loves -- for whom he is toiling unto
+death -- hang around him with gentle fondness; in those sweet
+moments, when love unutterable beams through the glistening eye, and
+tender solicitude watches the care-worn face, seeking to win one
+happy smile -- even then, he dare not give himself up to joy. The
+thought is never absent from him that life perhaps is ebbing fast;
+the very labours to which his only hope of income is attached, are
+gradually wearing him down to the grave; and when he is no more, what
+shall be the lot of those whose beaming faces smile so sweetly? What
+struggles, what miseries are in store for the beloved wife, and those
+young and innocent daughters whose hearts are full of him! No! he
+dare not give himself up to joy; he smiles in answer to their
+endearments -- but it is rather a shadow than a sunbeam that passes
+across his countenance.
+
+How many thousands are there in England so circumstanced, who curse
+the artificial state of society in which they are compelled to live!
+In their profession or trade they are bound to keep up a certain
+degree of appearance, or they are shunned by those whom it is their
+chief interest to conciliate. The great bug-bear ever present in the
+mind of an Englishman, is the dread of not being thought sufficiently
+"respectable." Professional men and tradesmen depend for their
+subsistence upon appearances. To be flashy is as bad as to be
+shabby; the great object is to appear substantial. If you are rich,
+you have less temptation to be dishonest, and may consequently be
+trusted. Every man, therefore, who depends upon the opinion of
+others, is compelled to assume the appearance of being comfortably
+circumstanced in order to inspire confidence. Character is the
+life-blood of Englishmen, but character alone will seldom extricate a
+man from the slough of Poverty. In our highly artificial state of
+society, something more powerful than character alone is required to
+place a man in the road to fortune -- call it as you please, tact or
+humbug.
+
+This necessity for keeping up appearances in order to move in that
+rank of life which his business requires him to occupy, is the
+heaviest tax imposed upon the income of an Englishman. How often
+does it draw from him all his profits, leaving him to lament how
+little he is enabled to lay by annually for his children! Many times,
+without doubt, he wishes he durst retire to a cottage too small to
+admit the visits of the heartless acquaintance who form his
+"fashionable" world. Does their society afford him or his family any
+real happiness? Is it not rather the cause of many heart-burnings to
+him and to them? How much happier he feels he should be, had he
+never looked abroad for happiness, but sought it only around his own
+hearth! To see his daughters elegantly attired, would gratify him
+extremely, were it not for the unwelcome reminiscences of expense.
+But would they look less lovely to his eyes, or be less dear to his
+heart, when moving about him in the useful performance of domestic
+duties, clad in homely garments, and thinking more of him and home
+than of visiting and display?
+
+How economically, and how happily too, might he live, were his own
+house his world, and his wife and children the only beings for whose
+opinion he cared! But alas! these are the persons whose opinion is
+of least importance in his pursuit of fortune. He must do as the
+world does if he would secure its smiles, and is compelled to think
+less of happiness than of gain.
+
+Is such a man happier, leading such a life, than he would be as a
+colonist? Here -- ever blessed be the recollection! -- there is no
+necessity for sacrificing peace of mind to appearance. The man whose
+conduct proves him to be of gentlemanly mould, is everywhere treated
+as an equal; and though his occupation and mode of living be ever so
+humble, he loses nothing in the consideration of his
+fellow-colonists. The half-pay officer, or gentleman farmer, who
+occasionally drives his own cart, or sows the seed which he has
+purchased in the market, is not thought less qualified to act as a
+magistrate, nor is less respected by the great and small in his
+neighbourhood. His cares are all directed towards obtaining
+substantial comforts for his family, and not towards making a display
+in the eyes of the little world around him.
+
+Conscious that he is respected only for his character as an upright
+man, and that as every one knows he is not wealthy, it would be
+ridiculous to affect the appearance of wealth, he wears the coarsest
+garments with more pleasure than the finest coat, and draws all his
+happiness from domestic sources. His sons and daughters equally
+indifferent to show -- though the latter, at least, are always neatly
+dressed -- are busied with their different duties, all tending to
+promote the general comfort.
+
+Happy family! -- how pleasantly the evenings pass in your society!
+Gladly would I ride many miles to spend such pleasant hours, and
+witness happiness so unpretending and real. How cheerful looks that
+large room, with its glorious fire of Jarra-wood and black-boys, (for
+it is the winter season,) and how lightly those young girls move
+about, arranging the tea-table, and preparing for the evening meal!
+The kind-hearted mother, relieved of all duties but that of
+superintendence, sits by the fire chatting cheerfully with the guest,
+whose eyes, nevertheless, wander round the room after a certain light
+and dancing shape; the host, a man of eld, but stalwart in
+appearance, full of hospitality and noble courtesy, appears in his
+easy slippers and an old and well-worn coat, which formerly had seen
+service in London ball-rooms. He discourses not only of the crops
+and colonial politics, but of literature, and the last news from
+England; for like many other colonists he receives the English
+papers, and patronizes the 'Quarterly Review'. On the sofa lie the
+latest numbers of 'Punch' and 'the Illustrated London News' -- some
+four months old, of course -- for the ladies like fun and pictures,
+whilst their father laboriously wades through a three months'
+accumulation of the 'Times'.
+
+With what alacrity the old gentleman rises up and welcomes a
+traveller, who has unexpectedly arrived, and has just stabled his
+horse, and seen him fed before he made his appearance in the parlour!
+There is no beating about the bush for a bed, or an invitation to
+supper. Of the latter he is certain, and indifferent about the
+former; for having slept the last night under a tree, he feels sure
+of making himself comfortable on the sofa, or on the hearth-rug
+before the fire. And then the girls, who have no affectation or
+nonsense about them, crowd round the new-arrived, and ply him with
+questions about their young friends in other parts of the colony,
+and whether he was at the last ball at Government House, and what
+was most worn on that occasion -- until the good man, laughing,
+breaks through the circle, declaring he will answer no more
+questions till he has had his supper, and, it may be, a glass of
+whisky-toddy screeching hot.
+
+During the evening the girls sing, and happily they sing well; and
+they take most pleasure in those songs which papa likes best to hear.
+And the poor bachelor-guest, who looks on, feels his heart melting
+within him, and reviles himself for the destitution in which he lives
+at home. Suddenly, perhaps, horses at a gallop are heard to enter
+the yard; and soon afterwards two young fellows, fresh from the
+capital, come dashing into the room, full of spirits, and vowing they
+have gallopped over on purpose to ascertain whether the ladies were
+still living. Here is authority of undoubted value for everything
+relating to the ball at Government House; and the merits and
+appearance of every person who attended it are soon brought under
+discussion. This naturally inspires the young people with a desire
+to dance; so the table is pushed aside, and papa being squeezed
+nearly into the fire, mamma takes her place at the piano, and bursts
+off with the Annen Polka.
+
+It may seem strange to you, dear reader, who have an idea that
+colonists are merely wild beasts, that such things should be. But so
+it is; and though people may dance the Cellarius with more gravity in
+the saloons of St. James's, I question whether dancing be half the
+fun there that our light-hearted colonists seem to think it. There
+are no strangers in small colonies -- it is always a family party
+dancing together; and consequently, people are as merry as if it were
+Christmas-time all the year round.
+
+Your fashionable people may pity them; but God help them, poor
+things! In their dark and degraded state they seem to enjoy
+themselves so much, that I should not like them to be put out of
+conceit with themselves, or made to repudiate whatever gives them
+innocent pleasure. Nor are they entirely insensible to the good
+opinion of great people; for when they learnt that the Polka was
+thought vulgar at Buckingham Palace, they had serious intentions of
+denying it admittance into the ball-rooms of Perth; and I sincerely
+believe it would speedily have pined away and died, like a maiden
+under the breath of slander, but for a confidently entertained hope
+that her Majesty would never hear of the offences of the people of
+Perth -- and people will do all kinds of things when they can do them
+secretly. So the Polka continues to be danced in Western Australia;
+and the courage of the dancers has been much revived of late by
+hearing that it is still greatly in vogue at home, notwithstanding
+the august censures said to have been passed upon it.
+
+A country life might always be a happy one, were people possessed of
+the smallest competence, and of properly regulated minds. There is
+as much unhappiness, or at least discontent, in colonies as
+elsewhere; but discontented colonists are the greatest fools in the
+world, because they have themselves created the evils, and the
+remedies are generally in their own power. The grand object of
+man's search is happiness, which he strives to obtain by a thousand
+various ways. Wealth he covets, because he fondly believes that it
+contains the prize he seeks; but if happiness may be found without
+wealth, of what value are riches? Money is not so indispensable a
+necessary in a colony. Very little indeed suffices to enable a
+proprietor on the banks of the Swan, the Avon, or the Brunswick, to
+bring up his family in comfort, and to perform all the rights of a
+generous hospitality. The discontent which is so often felt in
+colonies arises from two causes: first, it is the natural feeling of
+those who emigrate late in life; who, although unsuccessful at home,
+have ever been fondly attached to home associations, to the friends
+and connexions with whom they have been bound up during many years,
+and to the national belief that a man can never be truly happy out of
+England. In addition to this, the emigrant of mature years has been
+so long accustomed to feel himself living in the very centre of
+intelligence, he has so long been accustomed to watch the progress of
+political action at home and on the continent, and to drink the fresh
+draughts of scientific discovery at the fountain-head, that now, when
+far removed from the busy and exciting scenes of the ever-moving
+panorama of European life, he feels lost in the wilderness -- a
+fragment of drift-wood washed ashore and left far behind by the
+fast-progressing waves of Knowledge and Action.
+
+The second cause of discontent is found in the non-acquisition of money.
+Every one goes out to a colony with the full conviction that he shall
+make a fortune in a few years, and then return to England and become
+a man of landed interest.
+
+A man has to conquer his first disappointments before he can become a
+happy settler; he has to form new and more just ideas of his actual
+position. Generally, it is necessary that he should return to
+England once more before he can entirely appreciate the advantages
+open to him in a colony. He then fully perceives how much more
+difficult it is to obtain a bare subsistence in the old country. He
+finds that with the utmost economy he cannot supply the numerous
+wants of his family, and he longs for his old Australian dwelling
+again, and the easy, independent life which he was accustomed to
+lead, when his children used to run about in brown holland, and his
+wife looked becoming in printed cotton, and thought no beverage so
+good as the wine which she had assisted to make.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 11.
+
+PERSECUTIONS.
+
+Scepticism is the offspring of ignorance. There are many people
+still living who doubt the existence of dragons; who go so far as to
+assert that such creatures never did exist upon the face of this
+earth, and never did torment and destroy the inhabitants thereof, and
+persecute forlorn maidens. They scoff at the records which have
+descended to our times, as fabulous legends, composed by idle monks;
+who were accustomed to write fictitious histories during the dark
+ages. They deny to historical ballads that authority which Mr.
+Macaulay attaches to them; and yet the principal fact in the
+biography of Andromeda (even before the times of the monks) may have
+been true; and the poor people of Wantley may really have been
+harassed by the celebrated dragon of that ilk. We speak seriously.
+
+Geologists have ascertained beyond a doubt that winged monsters of
+the size described in ancient legends did really inhabit this earth
+at some period or other. Happily they no longer exist of the same
+dimensions as formerly; like the descendants of Anak, they have
+become 'fined down', as it were, in the course of ages, until their
+proportions no longer awaken personal fear, nor do their exploits
+engage the attention of historians. Sometimes, however, the ancient
+ferocity, the propensity for devastation, still breaks forth, even in
+the diminutive descendants of this formidable race, and persecuted
+Man feels himself driven to the brink of despair.
+
+Soon after I had settled at Perth, in a small house, with three
+quarters of an acre of ground about it, I began to think of improving
+my little territory. I thought it was a duty I owed to society to
+set a good example, by bringing my property into a high state of
+cultivation.
+
+I intended to "make the barren desert smile" -- to embower my
+dwelling in the midst of blossoming peas, and aspiring kidney beans,
+-- to draw around me, as it were, a little luxuriant Eden, which
+should be the admiration of a Sunday public, as they stood riveted at
+the palings, unable to pass by without a lengthened survey; whilst
+the envied possessor, stooping behind his magnificent cabbages, would
+listen to their unstudied bursts of rapture with justifiable pride.
+Glowing with horticultural fervour, I rose early in the morning, and
+dug up the soil with stern resolution, toiling with a Patagonian
+pick-axe at the great roots which ran in every direction, until I
+thought myself a perfect pattern of a settler. My man also exerted
+himself with equal energy and more steady endurance; and in process
+of time a considerable portion of ground was got ready for seed. In
+order that nothing might be wanting to insure the most unlimited
+success, I purchased a quantity of manure, and had it drawn upon the
+ground. Then it was that the Evil Genius who (like the wicked
+Enchanter that always kept his eye upon Don Quixote,) hath ever
+dogged my steps, made his baleful presence manifest by the most
+rampant hostility. The day on which the manure arrived, I went out
+in my pleasure-boat upon Melville Water, accompanied by my man
+Hannibal, to manage the head-sheets. On our return, at dusk, we
+found the manure scattered all over the premises, as if it had been
+kicked about by a party of dancing demons.
+
+The traces of talons were clearly discernible on the ground. I knew
+not what to make of it. I thought a dragon must have been rampaging
+about the premises. Well! the next day the man scratched the manure
+together again as well as he could, and we sowed a quantity of seed
+-- peas, beans, and divers succulent vegetables. The following
+morning Hannibal rose late, having overslept himself, as he alleged.
+I was awakened by his sudden appearance at my bed-side, but no sooner
+sat up than I fell back again, appalled by the ghastliness of his
+visage.
+
+"The d---ls," said he, "have been again, and have scrat up the earth
+far and wide; and (he added using a strong expression,) I'll be
+dashed if there's a seed left!"
+
+Alas! "'twas but owre true." The ground so neatly raked the evening
+before, which I had returned again and again to look at with fond
+pride, until it was obscured by darkness, was now torn up and defaced
+throughout its length and breadth.
+
+"Well!" I exclaimed, as soon as I could speak, "there are dragons in
+the world."
+
+I could now enter into the feelings of the poor husbandman of the
+dark ages, when he got up in the morning, and found a dragon
+finishing the last of his highly-prized dairy cows. If I could only
+catch him at it! I felt immediately a fit of blood-thirstiness creep
+over me. I could have destroyed a dozen dragons with pleasure, might
+I only come within reach of them. Calmly, however, I ordered
+Hannibal to sow the seeds again, and keep better watch and ward in
+future.
+
+It now became a serious question how my property was to be protected.
+Am I to be subject to these incursions without defence? Is there no
+safeguard in this country for a man's possessions?
+
+I finished breakfast hastily, and went to consult the chief
+magistrate. To my question as to how I ought to guard my garden and
+vegetables from the attacks of the insidious enemy, he replied by
+referring me to the 2 Wm. IV. No. 2, a local act, by which people
+whose property is trespassed upon, are allowed the privilege of
+impounding the trespassers.
+
+Impound a dragon! I thanked the worthy magistrate, "But," said I,
+"the creatures that destroy my substance have wings, and are not to
+be caught by men who have none."
+
+"The law," replied his worship, "is decisive on the subject; you must
+follow the law, whether you be able to follow the offender or not."
+
+"But," said I again, "if the law gives me no protection -- and merely
+to authorize me to impound a creature with wings, is a mockery
+unworthy of the dignity of the law -- I may surely protect myself? I
+will have a file of men on guard, and fire on any creature that
+infringes upon the vested rights which I possess in my property. I
+will defend myself," said I, growing warm under the oppressive weight
+of the law, "and maintain my vested rights."
+
+"No man," replied the worshipful justice, "as you know very well, has
+a right to defend himself, except with the weapons of the law. You
+will only get into scrapes if you fight with any other weapons."
+
+Finding that I was kicking against the pricks, I made my bow, and
+went home again in a very ireful mood.
+
+Hannibal had resown the beds, and was at work upon others. On seeing
+me, he stepped up to a fine Nuytsia floribunda, which ornaments my
+grounds, and taking up a double-barrelled gun that was leaning
+against it, gave a few significant slaps upon the breach, and smiling
+complacently, winked his eye. I turned away and entered the house,
+filled with a kind of grim satisfaction, as thoughts of vengeance
+flitted through my brain. Too much disturbed to sit still, I paced
+up and down the room, listening eagerly for sounds which should
+announce the hour of slaughter and revenge.
+
+The milk of human kindness had curdled in my breast; I felt that I
+could sympathize with the restless anxiety of Charles IX on the
+memorable eve of St. Bartholomew. But the butchery of unarmed
+Huguenots was a different affair altogether from a war of
+extermination against invading dragons. I looked out of the windows
+every moment to see what Hannibal was about; but there he continued
+hoeing, and weeding, and raking, and looking as calm and amiable as
+the Duke when he awaited the proper moment to attack the French.
+Suddenly he paused; I watched him quietly drop his rake, and retire
+backwards behind a bush, where he remained crouching down, with the
+double-barrelled gun in his hands.
+
+Unable to remain quiet any longer, I opened the window, and cried in
+a fierce whisper, "Kill! kill!" With his hand he motioned me to be
+quiet, so I withdrew and paced about the room with feverish anxiety.
+The discharge of both barrels made me drop into a chair. Murder had
+been committed! Vengeance was satisfied, and remorse arrived as
+usual. Remorse, the ill-favoured offspring of Fear!
+
+"You will get yourself into scrapes," said the chief magistrate, "if
+you use any other weapon than the law." I reasoned with Conscience;
+I repeated the argument that I had a right to defend my property when
+the law failed to afford me protection. Dragons, said I, are 'ferae
+naturae'; the people of Perth, it would seem, are in the habit of
+keeping them as pets, and thus they come to be considered private
+property. But then, let the people of Perth destroy their own
+substance, and not mine. If they do not choose to have gardens of
+their own, they have no right to prevent the growth of my radishes.
+Because they do not like sack, shall we have no more cakes and ale?
+Because they can exist without cauliflowers, must I renounce all
+hopes of having hyssop in my pottage?
+
+What! am I to rise up early in the morning and sow the seeds of
+carefulness and labour, merely for the sustenance of other people's
+harpies?
+
+To whom am I to look for redress, when I know not to whom the
+ruthless creatures belong? -- Creatures that wander far and wide in
+search of food; that gain their precarious subsistence by plunder and
+rapine; and are intensely hostile to the labours and improvements
+of civilization. No wonder the poet looked upon them as hell-born,
+and called them a pest and a curse to society: --
+
+"------nec saevior ulla
+Pestis et ira Deuim Stygiis sese extulit undis."
+
+I had made these reflections, and received a good deal of comfort
+from them, when Hannibal appeared at the door with a pallid
+countenance.
+
+"Two of them, Sir, are done for; one's a big un -- eight pounds, if
+he weighs an 'unce. He's a handsome feller, that un; black feathers,
+and spurs to his heels six inches long. They'll make a houtcry about
+him, I expect."
+
+"What have you done with the carcases?"
+
+"Dragged 'em behind the bushes. 'Tan't legal to lift the bodies."
+
+"Go on with your work, Hannibal, and don't appear at all fluttered or
+discomposed. Look as if nothing had happened. If any one calls, I
+am not at home."
+
+An outcry was raised about the death of the dragon. He was the
+favourite of a young lady who was a pet of her papa's -- (next to
+dragons, children are the most horrid nuisances). -- An accursed dog
+(the D---l take all dogs! say I,) had found the body, and dragged it
+into the street, where it was recognised by the girl. The papa,
+furious at the sight of the favourite's tears, roamed and raged about
+the town in search of witnesses. Men of Belial are always to be
+found, especially in a colony, and Hannibal was openly accused of the
+murder.
+
+The whole town was in a state of excitement. People seemed to think
+that a blow had been struck at the very roots of civil and religious
+liberty; and as every one had his favourite dragon, every one felt
+alarmed for its safety so long as Hannibal remained unpunished.
+
+The ladies were especially bitter in their remarks and innuendoes.
+
+I was told by 'friends', that more than one lady had observed, that
+an old bachelor like myself cared nothing about dragons, and
+therefore it was just like my selfishness to seek to deprive them of
+their innocent pleasures and amusements.
+
+No one would listen to my plea of self-defence; no one regarded my
+losses; I was not looked upon as a sufferer; and instead of sympathy
+received only abuse.
+
+A summons being issued against Hannibal, he appeared before the
+tribunal of two of Her Majesty's Justices of the Peace, accused of a
+grave misdemeanour.
+
+As every one knew that I was the instigator of the offence, I
+magnanimously avowed the fact, and was requested to stand in the
+place of Hannibal.
+
+In vain, however, did I use every argument to justify the deed. The
+chief magistrate reminded me that I had been fully advised to proceed
+only according to law, under the Act, 2 Wm. IV. No. 2, amended (!!)
+by 4 Wm. IV. No. 5; by either of which I was fully authorized to
+seize and impound all trespassers -- a limit and license that
+included dragons.
+
+My defence was allowed to be a sensible and rational one; but the law
+was opposed to it, and their worships were bound by oath to prefer
+the law to common sense. (I doubted myself whether dragons came
+within the Law, but the Justices decided that they were poundable
+animals.) This being the case, I was under the necessity of paying
+the sum of ten shillings damages, and as many more for costs and
+expenses incurred by the bailiff, in travelling up and down his
+bailiwick in search of the body of John Hannibal Muckthorne (whose
+body was all the time sitting quietly in my kitchen) -- rather than
+go to Fremantle gaol for a month, and help to draw stones about the
+streets in a large cart.
+
+I need scarcely add, that I returned home a wiser and sadder man.
+"Hannibal," said I, "the Spirit of the Age in this colony is opposed
+to territorial and to social improvement. My grounds must still
+remain a barren waste. Instead of embowering myself in fertility, as
+I had intended; instead of creating new beauties which should
+transfuse fresh charms into the minds of the peripatetics of Perth; I
+must continue to live in a desert, and shall doubtless soon subside
+into an ascetic recluse. Hannibal! turn the horses into the garden,
+and let them trample over the beds."
+
+Thus have I reluctantly shown the reader that the dark ages still
+cast their shadows over the city of Perth; -- the dawn of a high
+state of civilization is still wanting there, where man continues
+defenceless from the ravages of noxious monsters peculiar to an early
+and uncivilized era.*
+
+
+[footnote] *The laws which colonists make for themselves are often
+as absurd as any that the Imperial Parliament thinks proper to enact
+for them. To this day, the only legal remedy (except an action and a
+shilling damages) against the winged and long-clawed nuisances that
+destroy the hopes and break the heart of the horticulturist, is to
+impound them.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 12.
+
+MICHAEL BLAKE, THE IRISH SETTLER.*
+
+[footnote] *A dry and humorous old man, who I cannot help suspecting
+coins a good many of his anecdotes, gave me this account of one of
+the early settlers, just as I record it. The fact of Blake's coming
+to this colony, solely because he had heard there was an estate in it
+called Skibbereen, (after the place of his nativity,) struck me as
+being something truly Irish and original. The man's whole history is
+given almost in the words of my informant, who professed to have
+received it pure from the fountain-head.
+
+Michael Blake was a native of Skibbereen, a well-known barony in the
+"ould country." His parents lived in a hut, "quite handy" to the
+road, in the midst of a bit of turf-ground where they managed to rear
+their annual crops of potatoes and their sprouts of children with as
+little trouble to themselves as possible. Michael, as he said
+himself, was the youngest of four, but there were five younger than
+he. As soon as he could walk, his mother clothed him in an old coat
+of his father's, the tails of which swept the ground far behind him,
+as he trotted over the cabin-floor with a stick in his hand to wallop
+his favourite companion, the long-legged and long-snouted sow, as she
+lay dreaming in the door-way. His father was an upright man, and
+dealt equal justice among his children, whom he 'lathered' daily with
+the strictest impartiality. This was all the education they had any
+reason to expect, as the priest was always in a hurry when he called
+at their door, and had not time to dismount from his pony, from whose
+back he bestowed his blessing upon the tattered crowd of children as
+they pressed around, and gazed upon his Reverence with their wild
+grey eyes and open mouths. And their parents could not be expected
+to give any other education than they had themselves received.
+
+Michael grew up, therefore, as might be expected, a hungry,
+dirty-faced, unbreeched, long-coated urchin. Although his parents
+had done no more for him than to usher him into a life of mud and
+misery, Nature had been more compassionate. She had bestowed upon
+him a restless imagination, apparently for the purpose of removing
+him from this scene of trouble as quickly as possible. It led him,
+at an early age, to explore the passes of a neighbouring bog, where
+he fell into a deep hole filled with water, and was just on the point
+of escaping from the cares of the world, when his eldest brother
+unfortunately came by, and fished him out. Their father seized the
+opportunity, and lathered them both.
+
+Michael next travelled in a northerly direction, and reached the
+high-road with another brother, who was sent out to beg. Here they
+both sat upon a stone and cried for their breakfast, until a
+brilliant idea occurred to Michael, which dried his tears. He made a
+dirt-pie, and presented it to his brother; and they both passed their
+time very pleasantly, until an English carriage appeared coming along
+the road. Little Pat ran forward, begging and praying their honours
+to give him a halfpenny for the love of the Virgin, as he had been
+carefully instructed to do by his dear mother, whilst his father took
+measures to impress the lesson upon his mind and person. Michael, on
+his part, made a vigorous effort to cross over to the other side,
+crying lustily, "Please Sir, a halfpenny!" but his mother, in order
+to give him a good appearance in front, had buttoned the old coat
+wrong side before, and poor Mike, in his haste and hurry, happening
+to put one of his little feet into the remains of a pocket, unhappily
+tripped himself up, and rolled before the horses' feet. The post-boy
+cleverly turned them aside as quickly as possible, but nothing could
+prevent the hind-wheel of the carriage from grazing one of Michael's
+shins, and making him squall out in the most dreadful manner.
+
+A young lady and gentleman descended from the carriage, and showed
+the greatest compassion for the sufferer, whom they caused to be
+carried by a servant to his father's hovel, whither they accompanied
+him, and soon relieved the anxieties of his parents by a present of
+five golden guineas.
+
+Some years elapsed, and things went on in the old way with the Blake
+family. Mike had sprouted out into a fine gossoon of a boy, and
+exercised his errant disposition by running after the gentlemen when
+they went out shooting, and helping the keepers to carry the game.
+One day, a gentleman who was shooting in the neighbourhood called at
+his father's cabin, and asked for the little boy whom he had run over
+in his carriage some seven years before. Mr. Blake, senior, after
+blessing his honour for his goodness, and wishing him long life and
+every earthly happiness called to the young spalpeen to get out of
+that; and why was he not for coming when the gentleman was spaking to
+him? Mr. Blake hinted to his visitors that he should correct the
+manners of the youth at an early opportunity, and in the meantime
+Mike slyly approached with a gun that he was carrying for the keeper
+in his hands, and received the compliments of the gentleman on his
+good looks.
+
+The end of it was that the gentleman, who was an officer, took Mike
+into his service; and in process of time, when he joined his
+regiment, Michael became his constant attendant. Dying, however,
+unexpectedly, as most people do, the worthy Mr. Blake, junior, was
+left to his own resources; and finding nothing better to do, he
+accepted a shilling from a friendly serjeant, and entered Her
+Majesty's service as a full private.
+
+In process of time he married a wife -- a real jewel, from that "gem
+of the sea" so dear to poor old England -- and accompanied his
+regiment to Van Dieman's Land, en route to India. He was well known
+and liked by the officers, having a peculiar talent for blarney; and
+nothing pleased him so much as a little conversation with a superior.
+
+The regiment remained seven years in Van Dieman's Land, and then
+passed on to its destination, leaving a number of men, who had
+received their discharge, to become settlers in the colony. Among
+these was Mr. Michael Blake, who soon established himself on a block
+of land, and became a prosperous colonist. But times grew bad, ere
+he could retire with a fortune. His wife formed undesirable
+acquaintances, and Michael endeavoured to reclaim her by wholesome
+correction; but, unhappily, he bestowed so much attention upon her
+amendment that he entirely neglected himself, and before he was aware
+that he was falling into error, had become an habitual drunkard.
+
+Everything now went wrong. Mike, hating himself, began to hate
+everything about him; he hated the colony; he hated the magistrates,
+who now and then imposed a penalty upon him; he hated the laws, and
+discovered the difference between law and justice, without being able
+to find any traces of the latter. His fences fell into decay; his
+pigs and cattle committed trespasses, and the neighbours made him pay
+damages. It was the fault of the law, or rather of the lawyers, whom
+he condemned to the flames with dreadful imprecations.
+
+Unable to pay the storekeeper for sugar and tea, judgment was given
+against him, and his last surviving cow was seized by the sheriff.
+He had the satisfaction of beating the officer nearly to death; but
+the cow was sold notwithstanding, and he took a month's exercise on
+the treadmill, whilst his wife spent the time with her friend the
+excise-officer, and drank to his better health and general
+improvement.
+
+On being released, he complained to the Governor, and presented
+petitions to the Legislative Council against the unjust judges who
+ruled the land, and crushed the hearts out of the people.
+
+Soon, however, softer feelings came over him; thoughts returned of
+home, so long forgotten in days of prosperity. He wondered whether
+his parents were alive, whom, forty years ago, he had left in the
+barony of Skibbereen, and had not heard of since.
+
+He thought of the home of his boyhood; of the antiquated cabin in
+which, at the will of his father, he had so often "eaten stick;" of
+the long-legged and long-snouted sow, that used to grunt uneasily in
+her dreams before the fire; of the potatoes and salt for breakfast
+and dinner, of which he never got enough; of the puddle before the
+door, in which he used to love to dabble -- all these visions of the
+past came back upon him now in the time of his sorrows, and filled
+him with a craving for the scenes of his youth.
+
+Every one in trouble goes to the Governor, who has consequently
+plenty of morning-callers. A few words of sympathy from his
+Excellency are very consoling, and serve the afflicted for a topic of
+conversation for some time to come. "His Excellency, the last time I
+saw him, desired me to write to my friends." "His Excellency
+particularly wishes me to make it up with Smith, or I'd never have
+forgiven him for seizing my cow." "His Excellency swears that he
+can't spare me from the colony, or nothing should make me stay
+another day in it," etc. etc.
+
+Mike presented himself at the government-offices, and after waiting a
+couple of hours, caught sight of the Governor as he was passing out
+through the ante-room.
+
+"God bless your Honour, it's bould I am to be stopping your Honour
+and Excellency this way, and you going out too with the business of
+the Nation upon your Honour's shoulders."
+
+"What do you want, my good friend, what do you want?"
+
+"It's your Honour and Excellency that's the good friend to me and the
+poor, and many's the prayer that's offered up night and morning for
+your Excellency, by them that blesses the Good God and the Virgin for
+having sent your Honour to reign over us." --
+
+"What is it, Mike, what is it? I'm in a hurry."
+
+"And is it me that's hindering your Honour? sure and I'll walk wid ye
+to the world's end and talk all the same. Och, and it's the bad
+times that have come upon us all entirely -- and the ould settlers
+feels it the most, as is likely. Faith and we'd all die off, out and
+out, if it wasn't for your Excellency thinking of us, and schaming to
+do us the good turn, when the Council (bad luck to 'em!) raises the
+duties."
+
+"My horse is waiting; I really cannot stay."
+
+"Arrah, and it's a fine baste that same, and the two of you looks
+well together, with the white cockatoo feathers, and the sword all
+gould and diamonds."
+
+Here his Excellency showed signs of mounting his horse, so Mike
+hastened to whisper confidentially,
+
+"Governor, dear, my heart's broken entirely for the ould country, and
+the poor father and mother that's looking out for me night and
+morning these forty years, to give me their blessing; and the woman
+at home, the crathur, kills me day-by-day with her going on; and I'd
+like to see ould Ireland once before I die, and Skibbereen, which
+your Honour knows is the finest place under God Almighty's blessed
+canopy, and I can't die in pace till I see it -- 'deed I can't,
+Governor dear; and ther's a Man-of-war, no less than the Shannon
+herself, going to sail for the Indies, where I'd get passed on by
+Colonel Maxwell (God bless him for the rale gintleman!) only,
+Governor dear, spake the good word for me to Captain Widdicombe, and
+I'll be took to Calcutty free for nothing; and it's not a
+tinpenny-piece that I have in the world, the blessed Virgin pity me!"
+-- Here his Excellency, being mounted on horseback, felt himself in
+more independent circumstances, and told Mike that he must not think
+of leaving the colony without his wife, as it would be most improper
+conduct (the Government would have to support her), and that he
+himself had no interest with Captain Widdicombe -- His Excellency's
+charger, being of an impatient temper, allowed no further time for
+parley, but cantered off with his rider, leaving Mike rather at fault.
+
+The more numerous the difficulties that appeared in the way of Mike's
+return to Skibbereen, the more yearning became his desire to lay his
+bones there. Every day he appeared at the Government-offices, and
+waylaid the Colonial-secretary, or the Attorney-General, or some
+other of the officials, entreating them to obtain a free passage for
+an old soldier, whose only desire on earth was to die among the bogs
+of Skibbereen.
+
+He talked incessantly of that beautiful spot, and swore that he loved
+it better than the Garden of Eden. He pined after Skibbereen as the
+melancholy pelican pines for his desert home; but hope gradually
+seemed to leave him -- all other friends had long since abandoned
+him, and he had fallen helplessly into the power of his arch-enemy
+the Rum-bottle, when a fellow-countryman arrived at Hobart Town from
+Western Australia. Mr. Denis Maguire listened patiently to Mike's
+pathetic lamentation over the lost Skibbereen, and then calmly
+replied, "Och, but it's little that I'd disthract myself for a place
+like that in the ould country; sure isn't there Skibbereen near the
+Swan River, belonging to Mr. O'Driscoll, and isn't it a beautifuller
+place entirely than any other Skibbereen in the world?" "What!"
+interrupted Mike, "is there Skibbereen at the Swan River, and is it
+Mr. O'Driscoll that's living there? Arrah! say that again, my
+darling, if you plaze." Maguire repeated the statement; on which
+Mike, starting up, began to dance an Irish hornpipe; and then,
+stopping short of a sudden swore that he was the happiest boy alive,
+and thanked the blessed Saints for all their goodness to him.
+
+The next day he managed to sell all the remains of his property, and
+made a bargain with the owner of a small coasting-vessel to convey
+him and his wife (whom he was compelled to take with him) to Swan
+River, where he arrived in due course of time, and managed to locate
+himself at Skibbereen, where he built a hut, cultivated several acres
+of land, and became quite a reformed character.
+
+Although his landlord, Mr. O'Driscoll, was his countryman, Mike
+managed to blarney him so that he did just what he liked, and never
+paid any rent either in cash or in kind. His yearning desire had
+been to live at Skibbereen, and now that he had attained his object
+he was (wonderful to say) contented and happy.
+
+He frequently came to Perth for the sake of a little chat with the
+storekeepers and the gentry, and as he was sure to blarney some one
+into giving him a dinner, he always returned home light of heart and
+unimpaired in pocket. But alas! poor Mike was not destined to die in
+peace at Skibbereen. A large party of the natives had suddenly
+attacked the abode of a neighbouring settler, and put the owner to
+death. Michael Blake and two of his friends, without waiting for
+other assistance, hastened to the rescue, imperfectly armed. They
+were overpowered in an instant. Blake and one of his companions fell
+pierced with many spears, whilst the other, being on horseback,
+escaped, carrying with him four spears fixed in his body. Years
+afterwards, one of the natives who had assisted at the slaughter
+coolly related the particulars of the death of Michael Blake.
+
+When he was lying on the ground, said this man, he turned round, and
+supporting himself on his arm, entreated for mercy in the most moving
+terms. The savages stood round him, looking on, and listening
+patiently to his address.
+
+"Did you show him mercy?" asked my informant.
+
+"No!" replied the savage, with calm indifference.
+
+"What did you do?"
+
+"We cut his tongue out."
+
+"Wretch! what for?"
+
+"He wongee (chattered) too much."
+
+Poor Mike! his blarney could not save him; it had often before done
+him good service, but the savages valued it not.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 13.
+
+WILD CATTLE HUNTING.
+
+Having received intelligence that a numerous herd of wild cattle had
+lately been seen grazing upon some extensive plains a day's journey
+south of Perth, I got up a party with the intention of hunting them.
+
+Our preparations were made the day before starting on the expedition.
+A bullock-cart was loaded with fire-arms, kegs of brandy, various
+kinds of provisions, and cloaks and blankets. A couple of natives
+had been engaged to act as guides, and these, with their wives and
+families, spent the greater part of the day lounging about my
+premises, idly inspecting the arrangements, and sleeping in the
+sunshine, lazy as the pigs, which they surpassed in filth. In the
+afternoon, taking with them a supply of flour, they commenced their
+journey, intending to sleep upon the road, and leave us to overtake
+them on the following day.
+
+At day-break the next morning we were in our saddles, the
+bullock-cart having started during the night. The party
+consisted of three, who were all clad in blue hunting-shirts, and had
+polished horns hanging at their backs, filled with eau-de-vie, wine
+and water, or the simple fluid, according to the taste of the wearer.
+As we passed down the silent street at that early hour, one of the
+party, an officer, agreeably dispelled the slumbers of the peaceful
+inhabitants by a most able performance upon a key-bugle; the others
+gave vent to the exuberance of their spirits by loud "tally-ho's!"
+and cries of "hark away!" and other encouraging expressions addressed
+to imaginary dogs. Then we gave our able steeds the head, and dashed
+along with all those happy and exulting thoughts which bubble in the
+breast of youth hurrying to the chase. Is there any moment in life
+so dear to memory as those we have passed on horseback, in the fine
+air of morning, when we hurried along towards the haunt of cunning
+Reynard, and expected every instant to see him break cover? Less
+exciting by far is hunting in Australia, but still it is hunting, and
+we are on horseback, and eager as ever for a gallop. Passing over
+two well-built wooden bridges, connected by a causeway, we crossed
+the river, and took the road for the Canning.
+
+Thick woods of banksia, wattle, and eucalypti, closed in the view on
+every side; but occasionally we ascended a gentle slope, and then
+looking back we could see a beautiful picture before us. In the
+still air and misty light of the morning, Perth water lay clear and
+tranquil amidst the vast forest by which it is surrounded. The
+heights of Mount Eliza looked down into the glittering mirror. On
+the right bank were the white houses of the capital; far to the left
+we caught glimpses of Melville water. Except the occasional flights
+of wild ducks, and the dark gusts which from time to time swept along
+the waters, heralding the rising land-wind, all was still and
+breathless. One could not help asking oneself how long this scene
+had existed as we now beheld it? Was it designed for thousands of
+years to be viewed only by savages, mindless as the birds or fishes
+that frequented its waters? Had it always existed thus, or been
+growing during centuries under the hand of Nature, until it should be
+adapted to the habitation of civilized man? And was that period now
+arrived, or were we premature in seizing upon our inheritance before
+it was thoroughly prepared for our reception? Many times have we
+asked ourselves this last question. This singular country appears to
+represent the ancient character of the earth in one of the earlier
+stages of formation. It represents that epoch when animal life was
+first developed in the lowest order of quadrupeds.
+
+There are a few small exceptions, but it may be laid down as a
+general rule, that all the animals indigenous to this country are
+marsupial -- from the kangaroo, the largest down to the little
+field-mouse.
+
+The animals not indigenous are Man, the wild cattle, and the wild
+dogs. Many speculations have been hazarded as to the origin of the
+first: to me it appears there can be little doubt that the first
+tribes found their way hither from the eastern islands, having
+proceeded originally from India. The language of the natives bears
+more traces of the Hindu than of any other. This, I believe, is the
+opinion of the Rev. J. Mitchell, M.A., of the Middle Swan, whose long
+residence in India, and intimate acquaintance with some of the
+languages of that country, give weight to his conjectures. Many of
+the words used by the natives of both countries are identical in
+sound, and express the same meaning.
+
+I have also noticed that the Coolies of India and the natives of this
+colony manage to understand one another much sooner than is the case
+between the latter and the whites.
+
+The wild cattle have long existed in the interior, as appears from
+their remains. Both they and the wild dog have probably descended
+from animals cast ashore by shipwreck. The indigenous tribes are
+those of the kangaroo, the opossum, and the lizard. It is curious to
+observe how the distinguishing features of the first are manifested
+in a great variety of animals, of all sizes from the kangaroo
+downwards -- the long hind, and short fore legs, the three toes on
+the former, the rat-like-head, the warm pouch, betokening the
+immature parturition. The opossums also are marsupial. All these
+animals seem to belong to an early age of the geological world. Many
+of the plants speak the same language -- especially the Zamia. The
+rocks, too, of this portion of New Holland are all primary, except
+the limestone and sandstone near the coast. Is this country, then, a
+portion of the world that has remained in the same state for
+thousands, or hundreds of thousands, of years; or is it of
+comparatively recent formation, exhibiting that condition which at
+one period belonged to the whole surface of the earth? The latter,
+of course, must be the case; and if so, we cannot help thinking that
+further changes must take place in its geological character before it
+shall be permanently occupied by civilized man. At present, however,
+it must be admitted there is no sign of volcanic action going on to
+effect these changes. Our conjectures are purely speculative, and
+will probably meet with no sympathy from the reader, but we throw
+them out because the subject is full of wonder and mystery; and those
+who have brought personal observation to bear upon it, best know it
+to be so. As we wander through the lacustrine valleys which abound
+here; valleys once the beds of rivers, but now broad swamps choked up
+with lofty reeds -- we feel as though we were in the land and the age
+of the Saurians.
+
+The whole country swarms with lizards, some of which, to the
+northward, grow to the size of five feet; but the most common are the
+'Iguana', or 'Guana', a creature some ten or twelve inches long, with
+a flat head, very wide mouth, and only the stump of a tail. They are
+perfectly harmless, and subsist upon frogs and insects. One variety
+of this species, found in the district of King George's Sound, was
+brought to my notice by my brother. It is usually found in a tuft of
+grass, where it lies completely hidden except its tongue, which is
+thrust upwards, and bears an exact resemblance to the petal of a
+flower, crimson and pink. Flies seem to delight in resting upon this
+deceptive flower, which being covered with an adhesive mucous
+substance, takes them prisoner, and proves their destruction.
+
+We have now had a long canter, which has brought us to the
+neighbourhood of the Canning River. The country hereabouts resembles
+a wild English park. The trees are all of the eucalypti species,
+large and dispersed; the surface of the ground is level, affording a
+view of the Darling Hills, which appear to be close at hand.
+Crossing the river by a rustic bridge, we ascended the opposite bank,
+whilst our trumpeter blew a charge that was intended to announce our
+approach at a farm-house close at hand. As we rode up to the door,
+the proprietor, attended by three stalwart sons, hastened to greet
+us. He was a gentleman who had passed a good portion of his life on
+the Continent, but having a large family to bring up had resolved to
+seek his fortune in the Southern hemisphere. Breakfast was already
+set out for us in a large room which served as the baronial hall of
+the mansion; whilst our horses, partaking of the prodigal hospitality
+of the farmer colonist, were tethered in various parts of a fine
+field of clover.
+
+Breakfast is a famous meal after an early morning ride, and people
+have then not only good appetites but good spirits. Half-a-dozen
+kangaroo-dogs, attracted by the clatter of knives and the tempting
+savour that arose from the large dish of sheep's fry, crowded round
+the open door, whilst they seemed to feel keenly the selfishness of
+those who appropriated the whole of the feast to themselves. Every
+now and then arose a howl of anguish from the group, as one of the
+young men would arrive with fresh supplies of coffee or fried bacon,
+and kicked a clear passage for himself into the room. One only of
+the canine race was allowed to approach the table -- the venerable
+Tip, who having formerly, in times of scarcity, earned his master
+five pounds a-week by catching kangaroos for the market of Fremantle,
+was now entitled to sit at his right hand, where a few morsels were
+occasionally bestowed upon him, which he received with becoming
+gravity and decorum.
+
+Breakfast finished, we saddled our horses and proceeded on our way,
+accompanied by one of the sons of our host. We pushed along towards
+the foot of the hills, over a sandy country covered with scrub, and
+trees of various magnitudes.
+
+The birds that we saw were chiefly fly-catchers and parroquets; and
+occasionally the wild turkey, or bustard sailing along in the
+distance, made us sigh for a nearer acquaintance.
+
+After a cheerful ride of several hours, having the hills on our left
+hand, we crossed a few small plains; and understanding from our
+guide, Tom H-----, that we were now at our destination, we began to
+look about us for our bullock-cart, whose track we had noticed from
+time to time as we came along. Our "cooeys" were answered by voices
+not far distant; and following the sound, we soon came within view of
+a column of smoke curling lightly above the trees; and on arriving at
+the spot whence it arose, we found our man, assisted by the natives,
+busily engaged in erecting a kind of hut, or rather skreen of boughs,
+for our night quarters. The bullocks were feeding quietly at a short
+distance; the cart was conveniently placed for being unpacked; and a
+group of three native women and their children, squatted round a fire
+of their own, about a hundred yards from ours, and busily occupied in
+baking flour-dampers, signalled our approach by shrill cries of
+welcome without rising from their places.
+
+[sketch of "The Bivouac."]
+
+Our horses were soon relieved of their saddles, and each man leading
+his own steed by the long tether-rope which had been carefully coiled
+round its neck, took it to a neighbouring pool to drink, and then
+proceeded in search of the best pasture. Our animals having been
+attended to, our next thought was of ourselves; and every one took
+his bundle of blankets and cloaks out of the cart, and unrolled it
+beneath the sloping skreen of boughs, and prepared his bed according
+to his particular taste or experience; testing the accommodation from
+time to time by flinging himself upon his couch, and ascertaining the
+different vents by which the wind would be likely to prove annoying
+during the night. These were next stopped up by handfuls of
+xanthorea leaves, or by strips of bark from the paper-tree.
+
+The lodging being pronounced perfect, and the sun being level with
+the horizon, we hastened the preparation for our meal; and hampers
+and boxes soon gave forth their stores of cold fowls, tongues, hams,
+and meat-pies. Sausages are excellent things in bush-campaigns; and
+as every man toasts his own on the point of a long stick, a high
+degree of nervous excitement is felt by each, lest he should lose his
+savoury morsel in the fire.
+
+The kettle soon boiled, and as we ate our tea-dinner, the sun went
+down, and night quickly swallowed up the short twilight, leaving us
+to depend entirely on our fire, which presented a goodly pile that
+shot forth cheerful flames, making the scenery around us bright with
+light. The ground for the space of many yards glittered beneath the
+flickering rays; the bowls of the tall trees seemed whiter than
+usual; even the brown cheeks of the natives looked less dark, as they
+chattered and laughed over their supper. Cold grog, or hot
+brandy-and-water, was leisurely sipped by those who lay on their
+couches in the full tranquillity of after-dinner ease; and as
+digestion proceeded, songs and catches awakened the echoes of the
+woods.
+
+Tired at last, we sank to sleep, having first, however, visited our
+horses and changed their tether. During the night I woke up. All
+around were fast asleep in different postures; some rolling about
+uneasily in their dreams; others still as the dead. I heaped fresh
+logs upon the fire, which blazed forth anew. The natives were all
+huddled under their wigwams, which are about the size and shape of an
+open umbrella resting on its edge. The night was dark throughout the
+forest, and overhead; the little circle of light within which I
+stood, seemed like a magician's ring, sacred and safe from evil
+spirits that filled the air around. It was as the speck of Time amid
+the ocean of Eternity -- as Hope, bright and solitary in the midst of
+unfathomable darkness. There I felt safe and secure -- but without
+-- who might tell what spirits roamed abroad, melancholy and
+malignant? Peering into that dark boundary of forest, the eye vainly
+endeavoured to pierce the gloom. Fancy peopled its confines with
+flitting shapes, and beheld a grinning hobgoblin in the grotesque
+stump of many a half-burnt tree, on which the light momentarily
+flickered. The ear listened eagerly for sounds in the distant
+solitude; and one almost expected to hear shrieks of laughter or of
+terror borne upon the night-wind from the recesses of the hills.
+Evil spirits seem peculiarly the companions of heathen savages. A
+wild, desert, and desolate region, traversed only in the day-time,
+and rarely even then, by straggling barbarians whose hearts have
+never known a single gentle emotion, seems naturally to be the haunt
+of the Spirits of Evil.
+
+Chingi, the terror of our natives, is often seen by them, as they lie
+cowering under their kangaroo skins, and huddled together in the
+extremity of fear, stalking giant-like and gloomy along the summits
+of the hills, whilst the moon shrinks timidly behind her curtain of
+clouds.
+
+On that night, however, there was no moon, and Chingi was not visible
+to me, nor did any sound break in upon the silence of the forest,
+save that of our horses eating their food, and giving an occasional
+snort as the sand affected their nostrils. Anxious to behold any
+spirits that might please to be visible, I walked to the spot
+occupied by my quadruped, with the intention of changing his
+quarters; but finding him comfortably stretched in repose, I left him
+to dream of his own distant manger and two quarterns of oats, and
+returned to my couch. The appearance of the bivouac, to one viewing
+it from the surrounding darkness, was very picturesque. Every object
+was lighted up by the cheerful blaze -- the cart with its packages in
+or about it, the sleepers in their blue or red woollen shirts, under
+the sloping roof, their guns leaning against the uprights, their
+shot-belts and pouches hanging in front -- the kangaroo-dogs lying
+round the fire, and as near to it as possible -- the surrounding
+trees and shrubs glittering with a silvery light, their evergreen
+foliage rustling at the breath of the soft land-breeze -- altogether
+formed a striking and peculiar scene.
+
+Next morning we were up before the sun, and having breakfasted,
+proceeded on horseback in search of the herd of wild cattle, which we
+knew, from the reports of natives, to be somewhere in the
+neighbourhood. We rode down an extensive plain, covered plentifully
+with grass, and presenting numerous clumps of trees, which afforded
+shelter to bronze-winged pigeons and immense flights of white
+cockatoos. The latter screamed fearfully as we drew nigh, but did
+not remain long enough to allow us the chance of a shot. Many tracks
+of the cattle were visible, traversing these plains in every
+direction; but on reaching a small pool, we found such recent traces
+as led us to believe the animals could not be far distant. Remaining
+stationary for a few moments, we allowed the two natives who
+accompanied us to ascertain the direction in which the herd had
+wandered, and their signs soon led us to follow in profound silence.
+The natives walked rapidly ahead; the tracks were very apparent, and
+we were all in high glee, and growing extremely excited. The sun
+shone brightly, but as it was in the month of May, the air was mild
+and pleasant, without being hot. After proceeding along the plains
+for several miles we came to a thick jungle, through which the cattle
+had formed a path. The interior presented a rocky area of
+considerable extent. Fragments of rock lay jostled together, among
+which trees and shrubs appeared, and here and there an open space
+afforded room for the herbage which had tempted the cattle into this
+rough scene. In parts where grass refused to grow, beautiful purple
+flowers raised their heads in clusters -- and ever in the most rugged
+and barren spots the gayest flowers are found to bloom. How grateful
+do we feel to Nature for bestowing such charms upon the wild desert!
+cheering our spirits with a sense of the beautiful, that else would
+droop and despond as we journeyed through the lone and dreary waste.
+
+Although we sometimes proceeded over a surface of bare rock, and at
+others over large and loose stones, where no foot-print was visible
+to the eye of a white man, the natives never failed to discover the
+traces which they sought with unerring sagacity. After a ride of
+nearly two hours we observed one of the natives making signs to us to
+halt. "There they are!" passed in eager whispers from one to the
+other. Before us was a belt of wood, through which we could perceive
+about a dozen cattle grazing on a broad plain.
+
+Already they had a suspicion of danger, and began to look around
+them. One of the natives, with my double-barrelled gun loaded with
+heavy ball was creeping toward them through the grass upon his hands
+and knees, whilst we cautiously drew up at the side of the wood.
+
+The herd consisted of a huge mouse-coloured bull, with an enormous
+hunch on his shoulders, and about a dozen cows, with a few calves.
+The bull came slowly towards us, muttering low bellows, and shaking
+his fierce head and ponderous neck, on which grew a short, black
+mane. From some unexplained cause or other the native fired his gun
+before the animal was within range, and the bull, being a beast of
+discretion, stopped short, as though extremely surprised, and after a
+little hesitation, turned round and rejoined his female friends. The
+whole herd then began to trot off at a slow pace across the plain,
+which was thereabout a mile broad. We were now all eagerness for the
+pursuit; and Tom H-----, the most experienced of the party, calling
+on us to follow him, dashed off at right angles from the herd, and
+outside the belt of wood, in the belief that he would be able to head
+the animals by a little manoeuvring; but at the instant he started
+the old bull turned short on his course, and made across the plain in
+a new direction. I happened to be the last of our party, and was the
+only one who perceived this new disposition of the enemy. Anxious to
+be the first in the melee, I allowed my friends to gallop off, and
+dashed myself through the wood directly in pursuit of the herd.
+Thinking there was no time to lose, I waited not for my gun, but
+resolved to trust to the pistols in my holsters.
+
+The cattle, who had begun their retreat at a steady trot, increased
+their speed as they saw me gallopping up to them. I was afraid of
+their crossing the plain, and escaping in the thick forest beyond,
+and so pushed my good horse to his utmost speed. He seemed to be as
+much excited as myself, and in a few minutes I headed the herd, and
+tried to turn them back; but they would not deviate from their
+course, and would have rushed through a regiment of foot, had it been
+in their way: I therefore avoided the old bull, who came charging
+along at the head of the phalanx, and found myself in the midst of
+the herd. It was a moment of delightful excitement; some skill was
+required to avoid the hurtling forest of horns, but I turned round
+and gallopped with the mass; and having perfect confidence in my
+horse and horsemanship, I felt that I could pick out any of the
+animals I pleased. My gun, however, was wanting to bring the huge
+bull to his bearings. He looked so enormous as I gallopped alongside
+of him, that I despaired of making any impression with a pistol, and
+resolved to limit my ambition to the slaughter of one of the cows.
+We were now across the plain, the bull had entered the forest, and
+the others were in the act of doing the same, when I rode against the
+outside cow, in the hope of turning her away from the thick cover,
+and keeping her in the open plain. She would not, however, turn
+aside, and I fired my first pistol at her eye, and though I only
+grazed her cheek, succeeded in separating her from her companions,
+and turning her up the long plain. At this moment four
+kangaroo-dogs, (a cross between a greyhound and a blood-hound, bold,
+powerful, and swift,) that had followed me in the chase, but had only
+gallopped alongside of the cattle, finding me seriously engaged with
+one of the number, made a simultaneous dash at the unfortunate cow,
+and endeavoured to impede her career by barking, and biting at her
+nostrils, dew-lap, and flanks.
+
+It was a fine sight to see these four noble hounds chasing away on
+either side of the animal, whilst she, every now and then, stooped
+low her head and made a dash at them, without pausing in her career.
+Away she went at a slapping pace, keeping me on the gallop. Fearful
+of hurting the dogs, I refrained from firing for some time, but at
+length got a chance, and aimed a ball behind her shoulders, but it
+struck her ribs, and penetrated no deeper than the skin. Loading as
+I rode along, I delivered another ball with better success, and she
+began to abate her speed. The rest of the party now came up,
+cheering and hallooing, but the game had dashed into a swamp in which
+the reeds and shrubs were high enough to conceal horses and huntsmen;
+nevertheless, we pushed through, and found her on the bank of a muddy
+pool, where she stood at bay, whilst the dogs barked cautiously
+before her. She was covered with sweat, blood, and dirt, and
+perfectly furious; and the moment we approached she made a rush,
+trampling over several of the dogs; and darting madly against the
+nearest horseman, caught his charger on the flank, and steed and
+rider rolled together on the ground. The furious assailant stumbled
+over her prostrate foes, and was saluted with a discharge of
+fire-arms, which, however, did not prevent her from rushing against
+me in return for a ball in the shoulder, but I eluded the assault,
+and the animal fell exhausted to the ground.
+
+All this may sound savage enough to those who read in cold blood, but
+it was very exciting at the time; and MAN, when a hunter, becomes for
+the moment ruthless and blood-thirsty. This was a very severe chase;
+the animal had run full five miles over a rough country at such a
+pace as to cover our horses with foam, and they now stood thoroughly
+blown, and shaking in every limb.
+
+We returned to our home after a short rest, taking the tail with us
+as a trophy. A party was despatched in the evening with the cart,
+and a large portion of the carcase was brought in and skilfully
+salted by the experienced hand of Tom H.
+
+This evening passed away as pleasantly as the last, and as we were
+all rather fatigued, we retired early, and slept until awakened by
+the sun.
+
+A native arrived early in the morning with the intelligence that a
+herd of wild cattle was now grazing in a ravine of the hills about
+four miles distant. As we could not well follow them on horseback in
+that locality, we started off on foot armed with our rifles. The
+morning as usual was brilliant, but not too warm, and we walked along
+in high spirits. We had not proceeded far through the woods when one
+of the natives, who was in advance, stopped short on a sudden, and we
+all instinctively did the same. Stealing back to us, he took my
+rifle out of my hands without any ceremony, and telling us to remain
+perfectly still, crept slowly forward, stooping nearly to the ground.
+We now perceived a small plain about two hundred yards a-head of us,
+on which were six wild turkeys leisurely feeding and walking about.
+
+The native had dived among the scrub, and we lost all signs of him.
+It soon, however, became evident that the turkeys suspected danger;
+they erected their tall brown and grey necks, and looked about them
+like alarmed sentinels. "They're off!" cried we -- but just as they
+were preparing to run, which they do with great rapidity, one of them
+was seen to flutter his wings and tumble over, whilst the crack of
+the rifle proclaimed the triumph of Migo. We rushed through the
+brush-wood, elated as schoolboys who have shot their first throstle
+with a horse-pistol, and found the bustard flapping out its last
+breath in the hands of the native, whose dark visage gleamed with
+triumphant pride.
+
+Resuming our march, we passed over the side of a hill covered with
+inferior Jarra trees, and soon entered the ravine in which we
+expected to find the cattle. They were not visible; so we crossed
+the valley, and passed up the other side for about half-a-mile, when
+we entered another valley, some distance up which we perceived a herd
+of cattle quietly grazing, or lying ruminating in the confidence of
+perfect security. We endeavoured to creep towards them as quietly as
+possible, but their senses of smelling and hearing were so acute that
+they became acquainted with their danger too soon for us, and trotted
+gently up the valley before we could reach them. We now dispersed in
+the hope of heading them. Attaching myself to Migo, who considered
+my rifle the most likely to prove successful, as he had killed the
+bustard with it, we walked for half an hour across the hill-side
+without seeing anything of our game. A rifle-shot and a loud shout
+prepared us for something, and in another minute we heard the
+crashing of branches and the tread of feet, and soon beheld
+half-a-dozen cows and two or three calves making their way up the
+hill at a short distance from us.
+
+"What for you no get behind tree?" said the native in an angry
+whisper, and giving me a push that prevented my staring idly any
+longer, and sent me into a proper position.
+
+"Oh! why will they go in that direction? Why will they not come
+within range? I will give everything I have on earth for one good
+point-blank shot!"
+
+And sure enough a bouncing bull-calf, turning aside from a thick
+clump of trees, came within about a hundred yards of me apparently
+wild with fright, and not knowing which way to run. Just as he was
+turning off again, I fired, and he fell upon his knees, struck in the
+shoulder.
+
+Migo was upon him in an instant, and felled him to the earth with a
+blow of his stone-hammer. I shouted the paean of victory, and was
+answered by a loud "cooey" from the valley and the voice of my friend
+Mr. B. calling out, "I have killed a splendid cow and dispersed the
+herd. The bull and several cows are gone down the valley towards the
+plains."
+
+All the party, with the exception of Tom N., were soon assembled
+round the body of B.'s cow, which was black and fine-limbed. She was
+evidently in milk, and there was little doubt that the calf slain by
+me had belonged to her.
+
+Every one now asked what had become of Tom, whose assistance was
+absolutely necessary in cutting up the carcases. B. had heard his
+rifle down the valley, and we now began to "cooey" for him. In a few
+moments we heard a faint "cooey" in reply, and started in that
+direction. After walking for about ten minutes towards the opening
+of the valley we heard distinctly, and at no great distance, the
+bellowing of a bull. Proceeding cautiously, with our rifles all
+ready, we soon arrived at the spot, and there beheld a huge bull
+tearing up the ground with his feet and horns, and bellowing in the
+most savage manner. A shout of joy directed our attention among the
+boughs of a low banksia tree, where our unfortunate friend Tom sat
+painfully perched, only just out of reach of danger. The animal
+below every now and then fell upon his knees, crushing and smashing
+something which we had great difficulty in recognising as poor Tom's
+rifle.
+
+"He is badly wounded," cried Tom, "pitch into him, and don't be afraid!"
+
+Without waiting for this exhortation, we let fly a volley, which
+brought the animal down upon his knees; and after a few staggering
+efforts to run at us, he sank to rise no more; whilst his first
+assailant, Tom, slipped down from his perch, and limped towards the
+remains of his rifle, execrating the dying bull in a furious manner,
+and even venting his wrath in a kick. As Tom wore a red shirt that
+only reached to his hips, he had no chance of concealing an enormous
+rent in his nether garment, through which protruded the remains of a
+shirt, which at the best of times was probably far from presenting
+the appearance of virgin purity, but now was stained with blood. As
+people in Tom's plight, when not seriously hurt, are usually more
+laughed at than pitied, the chagrin of our friend enhanced the
+interest with which we listened to his story.
+
+Knowing that there was no escape for the herd of cattle up the
+valleys, as they terminated in steep rocks, and that therefore they
+would either cross over the side of the hill, or return down the
+first valley towards the plains, Tom hung back, leaving the rest of
+the party to head them. After some time had elapsed, he
+distinguished the bull and several cows trotting along the hill-side;
+and hastening to meet them, he posted himself behind a tree, close to
+which he saw they would soon pass.
+
+Anxious, however, to get a view of the game, he stepped out from his
+ambush just as the bull had approached within fifty yards. Each saw
+the other at the same moment. The bull stopped short, and Tom felt
+rather queer. He did not like to fire at the vast head of the
+animal, lest the ball should glance off without effect. The bull,
+instead of turning aside, began to bellow and tear up the ground with
+his hoofs. The cows stood still, and stared at Tom, who began to
+think the state of his affairs looked gloomy; but he knew that his
+best policy was to remain stock-still; so he looked at the bull and
+the cows, and the bull and the cows looked at Tom. At length the
+bull had sufficiently nerved his resolution, and began to advance,
+tearing up the ground and bellowing as he came on. Tom took aim
+between the shoulder-blade and the neck, and fired; the enemy
+staggered, and roared with fury, rushing like a whirlwind upon Tom,
+who took to his heels, and began dodging round the trees. But the
+bull was in earnest; and savage with rage as a thousand lions, he
+tore round the trees more quickly even than Tom, carrying his head
+close to the ground, and his tail straight out behind, whilst his
+eyes, Tom said, glared with such fury, that our poor friend's heart
+froze up within him. Luckily he espied a banksia tree which seemed
+easy to ascend; but just as he reached it the bull was upon him.
+The bull roared, and Tom, roaring almost as loudly, made a spring
+at the tree but slipped down again just upon the horns of the
+animal. The next hoist, however, rent his garments, and lacerated a
+portion of his person which he had always considered especially
+sacred; but as the thrust heaved him upwards at the same time, and
+gave a fresh impulse to his agility, he succeeded in scrambling
+upon a bough that kept him just out of danger. No one may describe
+the pangs of despair by which he was assailed when he beheld the
+utter destruction of his only rifle. He threw his cap in the face
+of the bull, but he only lost his cap as well as his rifle by this
+rash and inconsiderate action, which was the highest proof he could
+have given of the extremity of his distress.
+
+Poor Tom! he had often been made a butt of, but had never been so
+butted before.
+
+The cup went merrily round that evening, and many and jovial were the
+songs that were sung, and witty and pleasant were the jokes that
+passed freely at the expense of the unfortunate 'tauricide', who,
+bereft of his rifle, and dilapidated in reputation and pantaloons,
+was heartily glad to be able to hide his sorrows in sleep.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 14.
+
+WOODMAN'S POINT*
+
+[footnote] *This is a more sentimental story than that of Michael
+Blake, but I owe them both to the same authority.
+
+There is a pleasant ride along the shore from Fremantle to a little
+bay about seven miles distant, one side of which, covered with lofty
+trees, runs far into the sea, and is called Woodman's Point. The sea
+in this part appears to be only a few miles broad; Garden-island
+forming the opposite shore, the southern extremity of which seems
+almost to join Cape Perron, and thus presents the appearance of a
+vast bay. Not long ago, the blackened remains of a small house, or
+hovel, were to be seen on the verge of the wood, facing towards Cape
+Perron. Around it might be distinguished the traces of a garden of
+considerable extent; a few stunted vines still continued annually to
+put forth the appearance of verdure, which served only to tempt the
+appetite of the stray cattle that wandered down to this solitary
+spot. A large bed of geraniums had extended itself across the path
+which used to lead to the door of the house; and their varied and
+beautiful flowers, rejoicing in this congenial climate, gave
+additional melancholy to the scene. It was evident those plants had
+been reared, and tended, and prized for their beauty; they had once
+been carefully cultured, pruned, and watered -- now they were left to
+bloom or to die, as accident permitted. Near to this bed of
+geraniums, but apart and solitary, untouched even by weeds, of which
+there were only few in that sandy soil, grew an English rose-tree.
+Its long, unpruned boughs straggled wildly on the ground. It looked
+the picture of desolation and despair. A few imperfect flowers
+occasionally peeped forth, but knew only a short and precarious
+existence, for the shrub being no longer sheltered behind the house,
+was now exposed to the daily violence of the sea-breeze.
+
+This widowed rose, deprived of the hand which had tended it so
+carefully, and of the heart which its beauty had gladdened, seemed
+now in its careless desolation awaiting the hour when it should die.
+It really looked, with its drooping boughs, its torn blossoms, and
+its brown leaves, rustling and sighing to the breeze, like a sentient
+being mourning without hope. Those who have never lived in exile
+from their native land, can have no idea of the feelings with which a
+lonely colonist, long separated from all the associations of home,
+would regard a solitary plant which so peculiarly calls up home
+memories. Pardon us, good reader, this appearance of sentiment; you
+who will read these lines in Old England -- that land which we must
+ever think of with pardonable emotion -- will evince but little
+sympathy with us, who necessarily feel some fond regard for the
+Mother from whom we are parted, and are naturally drawn towards the
+inanimate things by which we are reminded of her. There is in this
+colony of western Australia a single daisy root; and never was the
+most costly hot-house plant in England so highly prized as this
+humble little exile. The fortunate possessor pays it far more
+attention than he bestows upon any of the gorgeous flowers that bloom
+about it; and those who visit his garden of rare plants find nothing
+there that fills them with so profound a feeling of interest as the
+meek and lowly flower which recalls to their memories the pleasant
+pastures of Old England.
+
+But to return to the ruins of Woodman's Point. This plot of land,
+now so neglected and forlorn, was once the blooming garden of a very
+singular old man, who owed his support to the vegetables which it
+produced, and to the fish that he caught from the little cobble which
+danced at anchor in the bay, whenever the weather permitted the
+fisherman to exercise his art. No one knew his history, but his
+conversation and deportment told you that he was of gentle birth, and
+had been well educated. His manners were particularly amiable and
+retiring, and every one who visited the solitary old man came away
+impressed with a melancholy interest in his fate.
+
+He always welcomed a visitor with gentle pleasure, and seemed glad of
+the opportunity of showing his crops of vegetables and the flowers in
+which he delighted.
+
+The rose-tree never failed to arrest his steps for a moment. He had
+brought it himself from England as a cutting, and there was evidently
+some history attached to it; but he never shared his confidence with
+any one; and the history of the rose-tree, like his own, was never
+revealed.
+
+There was only one point on which he betrayed any feeling of pride --
+and that was his name. No one else would perhaps have been so proud
+of it, but he himself ever seemed to regard it with veneration.
+
+He called himself Anthony Elisha Simson; and never failed to make you
+observe that his patronymic was spelt without a "p".
+
+Nothing irritated him so much as to receive a note addressed, "A. E.
+Simpson, Esq."
+
+The Simsons, he would assure you, were an old family in the northern
+counties of England, and traced back their genealogy to the Conquest;
+whereas the Simpsons were of quite a different, and doubtless
+inferior origin. Nothing more than this did he ever relate
+concerning his family or his personal history.
+
+He arrived in the colony a few years after its foundation, without
+any other effects than what were contained in a portmanteau and
+carpet-bag, and with only a few sovereigns in his purse. Without
+associating himself with any one, he early fixed upon the spot where
+he afterwards built his house, and established his permanent abode.
+Here he began to make his garden, and did not disdain to earn a few
+shillings occasionally by cutting fire-wood for a man who supplied
+Fremantle with that necessary article. It was this occupation that
+caused the settlers, who knew nothing more of him, to give him the
+title of "The Woodman" -- a name which soon attached to the locality.
+
+After he had been some time in the colony, Mr. Simson began to
+express great impatience for the arrival of letters from England.
+Whenever a vessel arrived at the port, he would put on his old
+shooting-coat, and walk along the shore to Fremantle, where, after
+having inquired in vain at the post-office, he would purchase a pound
+of tea, and then return home again.
+
+Years went by. Every time that a vessel arrived, poor Simson would
+hurry to Fremantle. He would watch, with eyes of ill-repressed
+eagerness, the mail carried to the post-office in boxes and large
+sacks. Surely amid that multitude of letters there must be one for
+him! Patiently would he wait for hours at the window, whilst the
+post-master and his assistants sorted the letters; and when he had
+received the usual answer to his inquiry, he would return to his
+abode with down-cast looks.
+
+As time passed on he grew more fretful and impatient. Receiving no
+intelligence from England, he seemed to be anxious to return thither.
+He would drop expressions which led his visitors (generally
+government officers who called upon him in their rides) to believe he
+would depart from the colony were he rich enough to pay his passage,
+or were he not restrained by some other powerful motive.
+
+His mind ran altogether upon the Old Country, and it was with
+reluctance that he planted the vegetables and cured the fish which
+were essential to his support.
+
+For many hours during the day he used to be seen standing fixed as a
+sentinel on the low rock which formed the extremity of the ridge
+called after himself -- the Woodman's Point -- and looking homewards.
+
+Doubtless, thought was busy within him -- the thought of all he had
+left or acted there. None had written to him; none remembered or
+perhaps wished to remember him. But home was in his heart, even
+whilst he felt there was no longer a home for him. A restless
+anxiety preyed upon his mind, and he grew thin and feeble; but still
+whenever a sail was seen coming round the north end of Rottnest, and
+approaching the port, he would seize his staff, and set out upon his
+long journey to Fremantle to inquire if there were, at last, a letter
+awaiting him.
+
+May we imagine the growing despair in the heart of this poor old
+exile, as life seemed ebbing away, and yet there came no news, no
+hope to him from home? Frequently he wrote himself, but always to
+the same address -- that of a broker, it was supposed, in
+Throgmorton-street. But no answer was ever returned. Had he no
+children -- no friends?
+
+Naturally weak-minded, he had now grown almost imbecile; but his
+manners were still so gentle, and every thing about him seemed to
+betoken so amiable and so resigned a spirit, that those who visited
+him could scarcely part again without tears. As he grew more feeble
+in body, he became more anxious to receive a letter from home; he
+expected that every one who approached his dwelling was the bearer of
+the intelligence so long hoped for in vain; and he would hasten to
+greet him at the gate with eager looks and flushed cheeks -- again
+only to be disappointed.
+
+At length it was with difficulty that he tottered to the Point, to
+look for a vessel which might bring him news. Although no ship had
+arrived since he last sent to the post-office, he would urge his
+visitor, though with hesitating earnestness, to be so good as to call
+there on his return, and ascertain if by chance a letter were not
+awaiting him. He said he felt that his hour was approaching, but he
+could not bear to think of setting out on that long journey without
+having once heard from home. Sometimes he muttered, as it were to
+himself, that treachery had been practised against him, and he would
+go and expose it; but he never allowed himself to indulge long in
+this strain. Sometimes he would try to raise money enough by drawing
+bills to pay his passage, but no one would advance anything upon them.
+
+Daily he became more feeble, and men began to talk of sending him a
+nurse. The last visitor who beheld him alive, found him seated in
+the chair which he had himself constructed, and appearing less
+depressed than usual. He said he expected soon to receive news from
+home, and smiled with child-like glee. His friend helped him to walk
+as far as the rose-tree, which was then putting forth its buds.
+"Promise," said the old man, laying his trembling hand upon the
+other's arm, "promise that when I am gone you will come and see them
+in full blow? Promise! you will make me happy."
+
+The next day they sent a lad from Fremantle to attend upon him. The
+boy found him seated in his chair. He was dead. A mound of earth at
+the foot of a mahogany-tree, still marks the spot where he was
+buried. Those 'friends' at home who neglected or repulsed him when
+living, may by chance meet with this record from the hand of a
+stranger -- but it will not move them; nor need it now.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 15.
+
+HOW THE LAWS OF ENGLAND AFFECT THE NATIVES.
+
+The native population of our colony are said to be a much more
+peaceable and harmless race than those of any other part of
+Australia. In the early days of the settlement they caused a good
+deal of trouble, and were very destructive to the pigs and sheep of
+the colonists; but a little well-timed severity, and a steadily
+pursued system of government, soon reduced them into well-conducted
+subjects of the British Crown. There appears, however, to be little
+hope of civilizing them, and teaching them European arts and habits.
+Those of mature age, though indolent, and seldom inclined to be
+useful in the smallest degree, are peaceful in their habits; and when
+in want of a little flour will exert themselves to earn it, by
+carrying letters, shooting wild ducks with a gun lent to them,
+driving home cattle, or any other easy pursuit; but they appear to be
+incapable of elevation above their original condition. Considerable
+pains have been bestowed (especially by the Wesleyans) upon the
+native children, many of whom are educated in schools at Perth,
+Fremantle, and other places, in the hope of making them eventually
+useful servants to the settlers. Most of these, however, betake
+themselves to the bush, and resume their hereditary pursuits, just at
+the age when it is hoped they will become useful. Very frequently
+they die at that age of mesenteric disorders; and very few indeed
+become permanently civilized in their habits.
+
+Nothing could be more anomalous and perplexing than the position of
+the Aborigines as British subjects. Our brave and conscientious
+Britons, whilst taking possession of their territory, have been most
+careful and anxious to make it universally known, that Australia is
+not a conquered country; and successive Secretaries of State, who
+write to their governors in a tone like that in which men of sour
+tempers address their maladroit domestics, have repeatedly commanded
+that it must never be forgotten "that our possession of this
+territory is based on a right of occupancy."
+
+A "right of occupancy!" Amiable sophistry! Why not say boldly at
+once, the right of power? We have seized upon the country, and shot
+down the inhabitants, until the survivors have found it expedient to
+submit to our rule. We have acted exactly as Julius Caesar did when
+he took possession of Britain. But Caesar was not so hypocritical as
+to pretend any moral right to possession. On what grounds can we
+possibly claim a right to the occupancy of the land? We are told,
+because civilized people are justified in extending themselves over
+uncivilized countries. According to this doctrine, were there a
+nation in the world superior to ourselves in the arts of life, and of
+a different religious faith, it would be equally entitled (had it the
+physical power) to the possession of Old England under the "right of
+occupancy;" for the sole purpose of our moral and social improvement,
+and to make us participants in the supposed truths of a new creed.
+
+We have a right to our Australian possessions; but it is the right of
+Conquest, and we hold them with the grasp of Power. Unless we
+proceed on this foundation, our conduct towards the native population
+can be considered only as a monstrous absurdity. However Secretaries
+of State may choose to phrase the matter, we can have no other right
+of occupancy. We resolve to found a colony in a country, the
+inhabitants of which are not strong enough to prevent our so doing,
+though they evince their repugnance by a thousand acts of hostility.
+
+We build houses and cultivate the soil, and for our own protection we
+find it necessary to declare the native population subject to our
+laws.
+
+This would be an easy and simple matter were it the case of
+conquerors dictating to the conquered; but our Secretaries of State,
+exhibiting an interesting display of conscientiousness and timidity,
+shrink from the responsibility of having sanctioned a conquest over a
+nation of miserable savages, protected by the oracles at Exeter Hall,
+and reject with sharp cries of anger the scurrilous imputation.
+Instead, therefore, of being in possession by right of arms, we
+modestly appropriate the land to ourselves, whilst making the most
+civil assurances that we take not this liberty as conquerors, but
+merely in order to gratify a praiseworthy desire of occupying the
+country. We then declare ourselves seised in fee by right of
+occupancy. But now comes the difficulty. What right have we to
+impose laws upon people whom we profess not to have conquered, and
+who have never annexed themselves or their country to the British
+Empire by any written or even verbal treaty?
+
+And if this people and country be not subject to our rule by
+conquest, and have never consented or desired (but the contrary) to
+accept of our code of laws, and to submit themselves to our
+authority, are they really within the jurisdiction of the laws of
+England -- 'especially for offences committed inter se?'
+
+Such is the anomalous position in which the native inhabitants are
+placed through the tender consciences of our rulers at home. A
+member of a tribe has been speared by one of another tribe, who
+happens to be patronized by a farm-settler, and is occasionally
+useful in hunting-up stray cattle. The friends of the dead man
+proceed to punish the assassin according to their own hereditary
+laws; they surprise him suddenly, and spear him. The farmer writes
+an account of the fact to the Protector of Natives at Perth; and this
+energetic individual, rising hastily from dinner, calls for his
+horse, and endowing himself with a blue woollen shirt, and a pair of
+dragoon spurs, with a blanket tied round his waist, fearlessly
+commits himself to the forest, and repairs to the scene of slaughter.
+
+He learns from the mouth of the farm-settler, that the facts are
+really what he had been already apprised of by letter; and then,
+having left word that the offender may be caught as soon as possible,
+and forwarded to Fremantle gaol, he hastens back again to his anxious
+family; and the next morning delivers a suitable report to his
+Excellency the Governor of all that he has performed. In course of
+time the native is apprehended -- betrayed by a friend for a pound of
+flour -- and brought to the bar of justice. His natural defence
+would be that he certainly slew an enemy, as he is accused of having
+done, but then it was a meritorious and necessary act; he glories in
+it; his own laws required that he should slay the murderer of his
+relative; and his own laws, therefore, accuse him not. What are
+English customs, prejudices, or laws to him? He is not a British
+subject, for he is not the inhabitant of a conquered country (as
+English governors tell him), nor has he, or any of his tribe or
+complexion, consented or wished to be placed under the protection of
+our laws. Why, then, should he be violently dragged from the arms of
+his 'wilgied' squaws, and his little pot-bellied piccaninnies, and
+required to plead for his life in the midst of a large room filled
+with frowning white faces? Much obliged is he to the judge, who
+kindly tells him, through the interpreter, that he is not bound to
+convict himself, and need not acknowledge anything that may operate
+to his disadvantage in the minds of the jury.
+
+The unfortunate savage disregards the friendly caution, and heeds it
+not; he maintains, stoutly, that he 'gidgied' Womera through the
+back, because Womera had 'gidgied' Domera through the belly. He
+enters into minute details to the gentlemen of the jury of the manner
+in which these slaughters were effected, and describes the extent and
+direction of the wounds, and every other interesting particular that
+occurs to him. The gentlemen of the jury, after duly considering the
+case, return (of necessity) a verdict of "Wilful murder," and the
+judge pronounces sentence of death -- which is afterwards commuted by
+the Governor to transportation for life to the Isle of Rottnest.
+
+Now if our laws had been imposed upon this people as a conquered
+nation, or if they had annexed themselves and their country to our
+rule and empire by anything like a treaty, all these proceedings
+would be right and proper. But as it is, we are two nations
+occupying the same land, and we have no more right to try them by our
+laws for offences committed 'inter se', than they have to seize and
+spear an Englishman, according to their law, because he has laid
+himself open to an action of 'crim. con.' at the suit of his
+next-door neighbour.
+
+Look at the question in another point of view. Is jurisdiction a
+necessary incident of sovereignty? Do a people become subject to our
+laws by the very act of planting the British standard on the top of a
+hill? If so, they have been subject to them from the days of Captain
+Cook; and the despatches of Her Majesty's Secretaries of State,
+declaring that the natives should be considered amenable to our laws
+for all offences which they might commit among themselves, were very
+useless compositions. We claim the sovereignty, yet we disclaim
+having obtained it by conquest; we acknowledge that it was not by
+treaty; we should be very sorry to allow that it was by fraud; and
+how, in the name of wonder, then, can we defend our claim?
+Secretaries of State have discovered the means, and tell us that Her
+Majesty's claim to possession and sovereignty is "based on a right of
+occupancy." Jurisdiction, however, is not the necessary incident of
+territorial sovereignty, unless that sovereignty were acquired by
+conquest or treaty. We question, indeed, whether it is the necessary
+consequence even of conquest -- the laws of the conqueror must first
+be expressly imposed. The old Saxon laws prevailed among the people
+of England after the Conquest, until the Norman forms were expressly
+introduced.
+
+It is well known in colonies, that the laws propounded in certain
+despatches are more powerful, and more regarded and reverenced, than
+any others, human or divine. A kind of moral gun-cotton, they drive
+through the most stupendous difficulties, and rend rocks that
+appeared to be insuperable barriers in the eyes of common sense or
+common justice. Judges are compelled to yield to their authority,
+and do violence to their own consciences whilst they help to lay the
+healing unction to those of their lawgivers.
+
+The most convenient and the most sensible proceeding, on the part of
+our rulers at home, would be to consider this country in the light of
+a recent conquest. Instead of declaring, as now, that the natives
+are to be treated in every way as British subjects -- thus making
+them amenable to the English law in all its complexity, whilst their
+own laws and habits are so entirely opposite in character -- it would
+be better to pass a few simple ordinances, in the nature of military
+law, which would be intelligible to the natives themselves, and which
+would avoid the difficulty of applying the cumbrous machinery of our
+criminal code to the government of savages who can never be made to
+comprehend its valuable properties. It is most essential that the
+natives who commit offences against the persons or property of the
+whites should be brought to punishment. At the same time it is most
+difficult to establish the guilt of the party accused, according to
+the strict rules of legal evidence. The only witnesses, probably,
+were natives, who understand not the nature of an oath, and who lie
+like the Prince of Darkness whenever they have wit enough to perceive
+it is their interest to do so. In general, the only chance of
+obtaining a legal conviction is through the confession of the
+prisoner; and as it is most desirable that he should be convicted,
+when there is no moral doubt of his guilt, as his acquittal would be
+looked upon as a triumph by his fellows, and make them more daring in
+their opposition to the law, very little delicacy is used in
+obtaining that confession.
+
+Were the prisoner defended by counsel, who did his duty to his
+client, without regard to the interests of the public, the guilty
+person would escape in almost every instance. As it is, the law is
+outraged, and a trial by jury made an occasion of mockery and gross
+absurdity, in order to obtain a conviction which is necessary to the
+welfare of the white population. Nothing would be more easy than to
+legislate for the proper government of the Aborigines; but you must
+begin 'de novo', and throw aside with scorn the morbid sentimentality
+that refuses to look upon those as a conquered people, whom,
+nevertheless, it subjects to the heavy thraldom of laws which they
+are not yet fitted to endure.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 16.
+
+REMARKS ON THE PHYSICAL ORGANIZATION OF THE NATIVES.
+
+The native inhabitants of Western Australia are only superior in the
+scale of human beings to the Bosjemans of Southern Africa. Their
+intellectual capacity appears to be very small, and their physical
+structure is extremely feeble. In some respects the Australian
+peculiarly assimilates to two of the five varieties of the human
+race. In the form of his face and the texture of his hair he
+resembles the Malay; in the narrow forehead, the prominent
+cheek-bones, and the knees turned in, he approaches towards the
+Ethiopian.* There is a remarkable difference between the jaws and
+teeth of the Australian and those of any other existing race. The
+incisores are thick and round, not, as usual, flattened into edges,
+but resembling truncated cones; the cuspidati are not pointed, but
+broad and flat on the masticating surface, like the neighbouring
+bicuspides. This may be attributable to mechanical attrition,
+depending on the nature of the food which the teeth are employed in
+masticating. The upper does not overlap the under jaw, but the teeth
+meet at their surfaces. This peculiarity of teeth has been noticed
+by Blumenbach as a characteristic of the Egyptian mummy; but he
+thinks the nature of the food not sufficient to account for it, and
+imagines it to depend on a natural variety. He observes, that
+"although it seemed most easy to account for this appearance by
+attributing it to the nature of the food used by the Egyptians, yet
+the generality of its occurrence in Egyptian mummies, and its absence
+in other races, are remarkable; and it affords some probability that
+the peculiarity depends upon a natural variety."** A constant
+uniformity in the structure and arrangement of the teeth is an
+important particular in the identification of species; and if any
+human race were found to deviate materially in its dentition from the
+rest of mankind, the fact would give rise to a strong suspicion of a
+real specific diversity. I have examined the teeth of infants and
+children, and found them in every respect similar to those of
+Europeans of similar ages. Moreover, the process of degradation may
+be traced in natives of different ages up to the teeth worn to the
+level of the gums in the old man. I therefore consider it the effect
+of attrition; but it becomes an interesting question to determine
+what may be the nature of the food which produced the same character
+in the ancient Egyptian and the modern Australian. Did the fathers
+of science live on barks and roots, like the wretched Australian?
+Although attrition may cause this singular appearance of the teeth,
+the real question is, why does the lower jaw so perfectly and exactly
+meet its fellow? And is this confined to these two examples?
+
+
+[footnote] *The observations in this chapter were contributed by
+Henry Landor, Esq., Colonial Surgeon on the Gold Coast, who resided
+five years among the natives of Western Australia, and is intimately
+acquainted with all their habits and peculiarities.
+
+
+[footnote] **In a former chapter (13.) I have expressed an opinion
+that the natives are descended from the old inhabitants of India,
+which I think is exceedingly probable. It is interesting to
+remember, that the ancient Egyptians are supposed to have originally
+come from the same country.
+
+
+There is no fixed law determining invariably the human stature,
+although there is a standard, as in other animals, from which
+deviations are not very considerable in either direction. Some
+varieties exceed, others fall short of, the ordinary stature in a
+small degree. The source of these deviations is in the breed; they
+are quite independent of external influences.
+
+In all the five human varieties, some nations are conspicuous for
+height and strength, others for lower stature and inferior muscular
+power; but in no case is the peculiarity confined to any particular
+temperature, climate, or mode of life. The Australians, in general,
+are of a moderate stature, with slender limbs, thin arms, and long
+taper fingers. Although in general stature there is nothing to
+distinguish one variety of man from another, yet in the comparative
+length of the different parts of the human frame there are striking
+differences. In the highest and most intellectual variety (the
+Caucasian) the arm (os humeri) exceeds the fore-arm in length by two
+or three inches -- in none less than two inches. In monkeys the
+fore-arm and arm are of the same length, and in some monkeys the
+fore-arm is the longer. In the Negro, the 'ulna', the longest bone
+of the fore-arm, is nearly of the same length as the 'os humeri', the
+latter being from one to two inches longer. In a Negro in the
+lunatic asylum of Liverpool (says Mr. White) the ulna was twelve and
+a half inches, and the humerus only thirteen and a half. In the
+Australian, the ulna in some I have measured was ten and a half,
+nine, ten, eleven and a half; the humerus was in those individuals
+respectively eleven and a half, ten and a half, eleven and a half,
+twelve and a half. Thus, in none of the measurements did the humerus
+exceed the ulna two inches, which in the Caucasian variety is the
+lowest number. In all the black races the arm is longer in
+proportion to the stature than in the white. The length of the leg
+of the Australian averages thirty-six inches; in one man it was only
+thirty-three and a half, and the tibia of that man measured sixteen
+and a half, leaving only seventeen to the femur -- a very remarkable
+disproportion.
+
+Thus in the proportion of their limbs, the Australian ranks far below
+the European; nay, even below the Negro, and approaches far nearer to
+the simiae than any of the other races of mankind. Perron, in his
+voyage, made an estimate of the average strength of the arms and
+loins of the Australian, and of some French and English; this is the
+result in French measures: --
+
+                                       ARMS.               LOINS.
+                                   Kilogrammes.        Myriagrammes.
+Australian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50.8 . . . . . . . .10.2
+Natives of Timor . . . . . . . . . . . 58.7  . . . . . . . 11.6
+French . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69.2 . . . . . . . .15.2
+English . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  71.4 . . . . . . . .16.3
+
+Thus in whatever manner the capacity of the race is tested, its
+inferiority is strikingly exhibited. We shall find, when examining
+the skull, that the coronal suture falls on the temporal instead of
+the sphenoid bone, which is one of the strongest marks of the simiae,
+and does not occur in other human skulls.
+
+I have no desire to place the Australian lower in the scale of
+intelligence than he is fairly entitled to rank, but I cannot shut my
+eyes to facts; and if his organization is in conformity with his
+inferiority, there he must rank, in spite of the wishes of his
+warmest friends. At the same time I agree with the most enthusiastic
+philanthropist that no attempt should be left untried to amend his
+condition, and bestow upon him the blessings which Providence has
+lavished upon us; but I cannot help fearing the result will be
+disappointment. A fair comparative experiment says Mr. Lawrence, has
+been made of the white and dark races of North America; and no trial
+in natural philosophy has had a more unequivocal result. The native
+races have not advanced a single step in 300 years; neither example
+nor persuasion has induced them, except in very small numbers and in
+few instances, to exchange the precarious supply of hunting, and
+fishing for agriculture and the arts of settled life.
+
+The colour of the skin is chocolate, and resembles the Malay,
+although perhaps a little darker. The colour of the skin is, of
+course, greatly dependent upon the nature of the climate and the
+constant exposure of the surface of the body to the sun; the parts
+under the arms are of a brighter colour than those more exposed. We
+find in human races, as in vegetation, that every successive level
+alters its character; thus indicating that the state of the
+temperature of high regions assimilates to high latitudes. If,
+therefore, complexions depend upon climate and external conditions,
+we should expect to find them varying in reference to elevation of
+surface; and if they should be actually found to undergo such
+variations, this will be a strong argument in favour of the
+supposition that these external characters do in fact depend upon
+local conditions. The Swiss in the high mountains above the plains
+of Lombardy have sandy or brown hair. What a contrast presents
+itself to the traveller in the Milanese, where the peasants have
+black hair and almost Oriental features! The Basques, of the tracts
+approaching the Pyrenees, says Colonel Napier, are a strikingly
+different people from the inhabitants of the low parts around,
+whether Spaniards or Biscayans. They are finely made, tall men, with
+aquiline noses, fair complexions, light eyes, and flaxen hair;
+instead of the swarthy complexion, black hair, and dark eyes of the
+Castilian. And in Africa what striking differences of complexion
+exist between the Negro of the plains and of the mountains, even
+whilst the osteology is the same, therefore I pass over the hair and
+skin of the Australian as parts too much subjected to the influence
+of climate to afford means of legitimate deduction. It is the general
+opinion that these natives are not a long-lived race. The poverty of
+their food may account for this, together with the want of shelter
+from the vicissitudes of the climate. The care taken by civilized
+man to preserve health is, by increasing susceptibility, the
+indirect cause of disease; the more rigid is the observance of
+regimen, the more pernicious will be the slightest aberration from
+it; but a total disregard of all the comforts of regular food, and
+efficient shelter, the habit of cramming the stomach when food is
+plentiful, and of enduring long abstinence when it cannot be
+procured, has a far more baneful effect upon the human constitution
+than all the excesses of the white man. As man recedes from one
+hastener of destruction, he inevitably approaches another:
+
+   "Gross riot treasures up a wealthy fund
+    Of plagues, but more immedicable ills
+    Attend the lean extreme."
+
+I have observed that the natives mix the gum of certain trees with
+the bark, and masticate both together. This is attributed to the
+difficulty of masticating the gum alone; but I am persuaded that it
+has another cause also, and that it arises from that experience of
+the necessity of an additional stimulus to the digestive organ which
+has taught the Esquimaux and Ottomacs to add sawdust or clay to their
+train-oil. It arises from the fact that (paradoxical as it may
+appear) an animal may be starved by giving it continually too simple
+and too nutritious food; aliment in such a state of condensation does
+not impart the necessary stimulus, which requires to be partly
+mechanical and partly chemical, and to be exerted at once on the
+irritability of the capillaries of the stomach to promote its
+secretions, and on the muscular fibres to promote its
+contractions.
+
+I shall now point out the difference between the Australian skull
+and those of some other races, without giving a description of skulls
+in general, which would unnecessarily lengthen these observations.
+"Of all the peculiarities in the form of the bony fabric, those of
+the skull are the most striking and distinguishing. It is in the
+head that we find the varieties most strongly characteristic of the
+different races. The characters of the countenance, and the shape of
+the features depend chiefly on the conformation of the bones of the
+head."
+
+The Australian skull belongs to that variety called the prognathous,
+or narrow elongated variety; yet it is not so striking an example of
+this variety as the Negro skull. If the skull be held in the hand so
+that the observer look upon the vertex, the first point he remarks is
+the extreme narrowness of the frontal bone, and a slight bulging
+where the parietal and occipital bones unite. He also sees
+distinctly through the zygomatic arches on both sides, which in the
+European skull is impossible, as the lateral portions of the frontal
+bone are more developed. The summit of the head rises in a
+longitudinal ridge in the direction of the sagittal suture; so that
+from the sagittal suture to that portion of the cranium where the
+diameter is greatest the head slopes like the roof of a house. The
+forehead is generally flat; the upper jaw rather prominent; the
+frontal sinuses large; the occipital bone is flat, and there is a
+remarkable receding of the bone from the posterior insertion of the
+'occipitofrontalis' muscle to the 'foramen magnum'. It is a peculiar
+character of the Australian skull to have a very singular depression
+at the junction of the nasal bones with the nasal processes of the
+frontal bone. This may be seen in an engraving in Dr. Pritchard's
+work. I have before described the teeth, and mentioned the
+remarkable junction of the temporal and parietal bones at the coronal
+suture, and consequently the complete separation of the sphenoid from
+the parietal, which in European skulls meet for the space of nearly
+half an inch. Professor Owen has observed this conformation in six
+out of seven skulls of young chimpanzees, and Professor Mayo has also
+noticed it in the skulls he has examined. But although this is a
+peculiarity found in this race alone, it is not constant. I have a
+skull in which the sphenoid touches the parietal on one side, whilst
+on the other they are separated a sixth of an inch; and in the
+engraving, before referred to, the bones are slightly separated, but
+by no means to the extent that they are in European skulls. The
+super and infra orbital foramina are very large, and the orbits are
+broad, with the orbital ridge sharp and prominent. All the foramina
+for the transmission of the sensiferous nerves are large, the
+auditory particularly so; while the foramen, through which the
+carotid artery enters the skull, is small. The mastoid processes are
+large, which might be expected, as their hearing is acute. The
+styloid process is small; in monkeys it is wanting. The position of
+the 'foramen magnum', as in all savage tribes, is more behind the
+middle transverse diameter than in Europeans; but this arises in a
+great measure, though not entirely, from the prominence of the
+alveolar processes of the upper jaw. Owing to constant exposure to
+all seasons, the skulls of savages are of greater density, and weigh
+heavier than those of Europeans: --
+
+                                                  Avoirdupois.
+                                                  lb.   oz.
+Skull of a Greek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1    11 1/2
+     "      Negro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2     0
+     "      Mulatto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2    10
+     "      Chinese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1     7 1/2
+     "      Gipsy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2     0
+     "      Australian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1    12 1/2
+
+Upon an examination of the foregoing points of diversity, it is
+unquestionable that the Australian skull is inferior in development
+to the European, and the capacity of the cranium of much less.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 17.
+
+SKETCHES OF LIFE AMONG THE NATIVES.
+
+The Natives have very few traditions, and most of those which they
+relate resemble the disconnected phantasies of a dream rather than
+the record of a series of facts.
+
+They have some indistinct ideas about Chingi, the Evil Spirit, but no
+notion whatever of a Supreme God. When first the English arrived,
+many of the Aborigines considered them to be the spirits of their
+deceased relatives; and some of them fancied they could trace the
+features of former friends in the lineaments of individuals among the
+whites. One of these natives, still living, has more than once told
+me that his late uncle is now a certain eloquent and popular member
+of the Legislative Council. The nephew and resuscitated uncle
+occasionally meet, when the former never fails to claim the
+relationship, which the latter good-humouredly acknowledges; and the
+relatives separate with mutual expressions of politeness and
+good-will.
+
+One of their most remarkable and most intelligible traditions was
+recorded some time ago in the 'Perth Inquirer', by Mr. Armstrong,
+Interpreter to the Natives.
+
+It is as follows: --
+"The natives assert that they have been told from age to age, that
+when man first began to exist, there were two beings, male and
+female, named Wal-lyne-up (the father) and Doronop (the mother); that
+they had a son called Biu-dir-woor, who received a deadly wound,
+which they carefully endeavoured to heal, but without success;
+whereupon it was declared by Wal-lyne-up, that all who came after him
+should also die in like manner. Could the wound have been healed in
+this case, being the first, the natives think death would have had no
+power over them. The place where the scene occurred, and where
+Bin-dir-woor was buried, the natives imagine to have been on the
+southern plains, between Clarence and the Murray; and the instrument
+used is said to have been a spear thrown by some unknown being, and
+directed by some supernatural power. The tradition goes on to state
+that Bin-dir-woor, the son, although deprived of life and buried in
+his grave, did not remain there, but arose and went to the west; to
+the unknown land of spirits across the sea. The parents followed
+after their son, but (as the natives suppose) were unable to prevail
+upon him to return, and they have remained with him ever since."
+
+The following is one of their fables: -- The kangaroo was originally
+blind, and could only walk or crawl. The frog seeing it so much at
+the mercy of its enemies, took compassion on it, and anointed the
+sightless eyeballs of the kangaroo with its saliva, and told it to
+hop as he did. The kangaroo did so, and is now become the most
+difficult animal in the world to catch.
+
+Besides Chingi, the evil spirit who haunts the woods, there is
+another in the shape of an immense serpent, called Waugul, that
+inhabits solitary pools. Snakes that frequent both water and land,
+of great size -- twenty feet long, according to some authorities --
+have been occasionally seen, and give a colour to this belief of the
+natives. One day, whilst bivouacking at a lonely and romantic spot,
+in a valley of rocks, situated some forty miles north of Perth,
+called the 'Dooda-mya', or the Abode of Dogs, I desired a native to
+lead my horse to a pool, and let him drink. The man, however,
+declined with terror, refusing to go near the pool, which was
+inhabited by the Waugul. I therefore had to take my horse myself to
+the spot, whilst the native stood aloof, fully expecting that the
+Waugul would seize him by the nose and pull him under water.
+
+The natives are polygamists. Each male is entitled to all the
+females who are related to him in a certain degree. A newly-born
+child is therefore the betrothed spouse of a man who may be thirty
+years of age, and who claims her from her parents so soon as she is
+marriageable -- when she is twelve years old, or earlier. Some men
+have, consequently, four or six wives of various ages, whilst others
+have none at all. The latter are therefore continually engaged in
+stealing the wives of other people.
+
+This causes incessant wars among the tribes. When the legitimate
+husband recovers his wife, he does not restore her to the full
+enjoyment of domestic happiness, until he has punished her for
+eloping. This he does by thrusting a spear through the fleshy part
+of her leg or thigh.
+
+The natives are very good-natured to one another; sharing their
+provisions and kangaroo-skin cloaks without grudging. The head of a
+family takes the half-baked duck, opossum, or wild-dog, from the
+fire, and after tearing it in pieces with his teeth, throws the
+fragments into the sand for his wives and children to pick up. They
+are very fond of rice and sugar; and bake dampers from flour, making
+them on a corner of their cloaks.
+
+Fish and other things are frequently baked in the bark of the paper-tree.
+
+The following observations have been sent to me by my youngest
+brother: "Every tribe possesses a certain tract of country which is
+called after the name of the tribe -- as Moenaing Budja -- the
+Moenai-men's ground. They are not always very particular about
+trespassing on their neighbour's territory. Many of the colonists
+say that each tribe has its chief or king; but among all whom I have
+seen, I never could discover that they paid any particular respect to
+one individual, though they appear to reverence old age; and I have
+frequently seen a party of young men, alternately carrying an old
+grey-headed patriarch during their excursions from one encampment to
+another.
+
+"They have no religion whatever, but they believe in some kind of an
+evil spirit. I have often tried to discover, but could never clearly
+understand, whether they believe in only one all-powerful evil
+spirit, or whether it is merely the spirits of their departed friends
+that they fear; or, (as I am inclined to believe) they fear both; and
+for these reasons: -- wherever there is a large encampment of
+natives, each family has its own private fire and hut, but you will
+always perceive another fire about one hundred yards from the camp,
+which apparently belongs to no one; but which the old hags take care
+shall never go out during the night; for they will frequently get up
+and replenish that fire, when they are too lazy to fetch fuel for
+their own. They call that Chingi's fire; and they believe if he
+comes in the night he will sit quietly by his own fire and leave them
+undisturbed. That they likewise believe in the reappearance of
+departed spirits, may be easily proved by the manner and the
+formalities with which they bury their dead. In the first place they
+cut off the hair and beard; they then break his finger-joints and tie
+the thumb and fore-finger of the right hand together; so that if he
+rise again, he may not have the power to use a spear and revenge
+himself. They then break his spears, throwing-stick, and all his
+other implements of war, and throw them into the grave, over which
+they build a hut; and a fire is kept lighted for a certain length of
+time. It is likewise customary for his wife or nearest relation, if
+at any future period they should happen to pass near the grave, to
+repair the hut, rekindle the fire, and utter a long rigmarole to the
+departed, to induce him to lie still, and not come back and torment
+them. Nothing will induce a stranger to go near a new grave, or to
+mention the name of the departed for a long time after his death.
+They always speak of him as So-and-so's brother, or father. If the
+deceased be the father of a family, it is the duty of his eldest son,
+or nearest relation, to avenge his death by killing one of the next,
+or any other tribe; and this often leads to furious battles or
+cold-blooded murders; for they are by no means particular whether it
+be man, woman, or child who is the victim; and it is generally the
+poor women who suffer on these occasions; the men being too cowardly,
+unless under the influence of very strong passion, to attack those of
+equal strength with themselves. The women do all the work, such as
+building huts, carrying water, digging up roots, and procuring grubs
+out of the wattle and grass-trees. I have seen a poor unfortunate
+woman marching twenty miles a-day, with (at least) a hundred
+pounds'-weight on her back, including the child and all their
+effects; whilst the husband has been too lazy to carry even his
+cloak. A hunting excursion with a large party of natives is capital
+sport. They choose, if possible, a valley, at one end of which they
+station ten or twenty of the most expert spearmen; with whom, if you
+want any fun, you must station yourself, taking care to remain
+concealed. All the juveniles of the party then start off, and make a
+circuit of many miles in extent, shouting and hallooing the whole
+time. They form a semicircle, and drive all the kangaroos before
+them down the valley, to the spot where the old hunters are placed.
+Then comes the tug of war, the crashing of bushes, the flying of
+spears, and the thump, thump of the kangaroos, as they come tearing
+along, sometimes in hundreds, from the old grey grandfather of six
+feet high, to the little picanniny of twelve inches, who has tumbled
+out of his mother's pouch; and numbers fall victims to the ruthless
+arms of the hunters. The evening terminates with a grand feast and a
+corrobery."
+
+
+[etching opposite p. 214 "Spearing Kangaroos"]
+
+Each tribe has its doctor, or wise man, who is supposed to have
+supernatural powers of healing wounds, and is the oracle of the
+tribe. One of these fellows described to me the mode of his
+initiation. He said his father, himself a wise man, took him one
+night to the edge of a steep hill, where he left him lying wrapped in
+his kangaroo-skin cloak. He was very much frightened, but durst not
+stir. During the night Chingi came and tried to throw him down the
+hill, and to strangle him, but did not succeed. Chingi was like
+something very black. He afterwards came again, and told him a great
+many secrets; and thus is was that my informant became a doctor and a
+wise man. I think I have heard of people obtaining the power of
+second sight in the Isle of Skye by lying on a rock all night,
+wrapped in a bull's hide, and receiving a visit from the devil. The
+similarity between these initiatory processes struck me forcibly.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 18.
+
+THE MODEL-KINGDOM.
+
+A well-governed colony is the Model of a great kingdom. As in the
+case of other models, every part of the machinery by which it is
+moved is placed at once before the eye of the spectator. In a great
+empire, the springs of action are concealed; the public behold only
+the results, and can scarcely guess how those results were brought
+about. In a colony, every one stands so close to the little machine
+of Government, that he can readily discern how it is made to work,
+and therefore takes a more lively interest in the working of it. The
+model has its representative of a sovereign; its Ministers, who
+comprise the Executive Council with the Colonial Secretary as
+Premier; its Parliament, the Legislative Assembly; its Bishop of
+London, who is represented by the Colonial Chaplain, the dignitary of
+the Church in those parts. In the Legislative Assembly there are the
+Government party, consisting of the Colonial Secretary and the
+Attorney General, who prove their loyalty and devotion by adhering to
+His Excellency the Governor on every division, and (according to
+general belief) would rather vote against their own measures than
+against the representative of their Queen. Then there is the popular
+party, consisting of the popular member, who speaks at random on
+either side of the debate, but invariably votes against the
+Government, in order to maintain inviolate the integrity of his
+principles. We have also the Judge, or Lord chancellor, the great
+Law officer of the Crown, who sits silently watching the progress of
+a Bill, as it steals gently forward towards the close of the second
+reading; and then suddenly pounces upon it, to the consternation of
+his Excellency, and the delight of the popular member, and tears it
+in pieces with his sharp legal teeth, whilst he shows that it is in
+its scope and tendency contrary to the Law of England in that case
+provided, and is besides impossible to be carried out in the present
+circumstances of the Colony. The Model Nation has its national debt
+of one thousand pounds, due to the Commissariat chest; and this
+burthen of the State costs his Excellency many a sleepless night,
+spent in vain conjectures as to the best mode of relieving the
+financial embarrassments.
+
+It is pleasant to learn from the model, how Government patronage is
+disposed of in the Parent country. Kindly motives, however, which
+never appear in the arrangements of the latter, are always
+conspicuous in a colony. A public work is sometimes created for the
+sole purpose of saving an unfortunate mechanic from the horrors of
+idleness; and a debt due to the State is occasionally discharged by
+three months' washing of a Privy Councillor's shirts.
+
+Then we have the exact fac-simile of a Royal Court, with its levees
+and drawing-rooms, where his Excellency displays the utmost extent of
+his affability, and his lady of her queenly airs. There may be seen,
+in all its original freshness and vigour, the smiling hatred of rival
+ladies, followed by their respective trains of admirers; whilst the
+full-blown dames of Members of Council elbow their way, with all the
+charming confidence of rank, towards the vicinity of her who is the
+cynosure of all eyes. The early levees of the first Governor of
+Western Australia were held in a dry swamp, near the centre of the
+present town of Perth. His Excellency, graciously bowing beneath the
+shade of a banksia tree, received with affability those who were
+introduced to him, as they stumbled into his presence over tangled
+brushwood, and with difficulty avoided the only humiliation that is
+scorned by English courtiers -- that of the person.
+
+Ladies, in struggling through the thorny brake, had sometimes to
+labour under the double embarrassment of a ragged reputation and
+dress. To appear before the Presence, under such circumstances, with
+a smiling countenance, proved the triumph of feminine art, and of
+course excited general admiration. But this was in the early days of
+the settlement. We have now a handsome Government-house, where
+ladies who attend drawing-rooms incur no danger of any kind.
+
+From the financial difficulties of a small colony you may form some
+idea of the troubles of the Chancellor of the Exchequer at home. And
+yet there is less financial talent required to raise five hundred
+thousand pounds in England than five hundred in an impoverished
+colony. In the former country only a few voices, comparatively, are
+raised in expostulation; and no one cares about them, if Mr. Hume
+could be gagged, and the other patriots in the Commons. But in a
+colony! threaten to raise the price of sugar by the imposition of
+another half-penny per pound, and the whole land will be heaved as
+though by an earthquake. Not only will the newspapers pour forth a
+terrific storm of denunciations against a treacherous Government, but
+every individual of the public will take up the matter as a personal
+injury, and roar out his protest against so monstrous a political
+crime. Those who called most loudly for the erection of a necessary
+bridge, will be most indignant when asked next year to contribute
+towards its cost.
+
+The Governor of a colony should not only be a good financier, but if
+he would avoid the bitter pangs of repentance, must possess great
+firmness in resisting the innumerable calls upon the Government purse.
+
+His Excellency may lay his account to being daily vituperated for not
+consenting to the construction of this or that national work, but he
+will be still more taken to task when the melancholy duty of paying
+for it becomes imperative, and is found to be unavoidable.
+
+It is the general belief, that in a colony we are altogether out of
+the world; but it has always appeared to me, that within the narrow
+confines of one of those epitomes of a kingdom we may see more of the
+world than when standing on the outer edge of society in England.
+
+A man thinks himself in the midst of the world in Great Britain,
+because he reads the newspapers and knows what is passing and being
+enacted around him. But the same newspapers are read with equal
+diligence in a colony, and the same knowledge is acquired there,
+though some three months later. To read the newspapers, and to hang,
+close as a burr, upon the skirts of society, is not to be in the
+world. The world is, in truth, the heart of Man; and he knows most
+of the World who knows most of his species. And where, alas! may
+this knowledge, so painful and so humiliating, be better acquired
+than in a colony? There we have the human heart laid open before us
+without veil or disguise: there we see it in all its coarseness, its
+selfishness, its brutality.
+
+How many fine natures, cultivated, delicate, and generous, have gone
+forth from their native land, full of high resolves, only to perish
+in the mephitic atmosphere of a colony!
+
+There we find whatever there is of good and bad in human nature
+brought immediately before our eyes. It is a school of moral
+anatomy, in which we study subjects whose outer covering has been
+removed, and where the inner machinery (fearful to see!) is left
+exposed.
+
+A knowledge of the world! if we gain it not in a colony, it must ever
+remain a sealed book to us.
+
+We shall leave but a bad impression on the mind of the reader in
+concluding this short chapter with these sombre observations; but we
+would not leave him without hope. Time will remedy all this. Some
+moral evils correct themselves; as the water of the Nile becomes pure
+again after it has gone putrid.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 19.
+
+TRIALS OF A GOVERNOR.
+
+Except the waiter at a commercial inn, no man has so much upon his
+hands, or so many faults to answer for, as the Governor of a colony.
+If public affairs go wrong, every voice is raised, requiring him
+immediately to rectify them; and as every one has a particular plan
+of his own, the Governor is expected instantly to adopt them all.
+Nor has he public calamities only to answer for; the private
+misfortunes of individuals are, without hesitation, laid at his door.
+He is expected to do something, and not a little, for all who are in
+trouble; he has to devise expedients for those whose own wits are at
+fault: it is among his duties to console, to cheer, to advise, to
+redress, to remedy; and, above all, to enrich.
+
+As men set up a block of wood in a field to become a rubbing-post for
+asses; as bachelors take to themselves wives, and elderly spinsters
+individuals of the feline race, in order to have something on which
+to vent their occasional ill-humours, so is a Governor set up in a
+colony, that the settlers may have a proper object or mark set apart,
+on which they may satisfactorily discharge their wrongs, sorrows,
+wants, troubles, distractions, follies, and unreasonable
+expectations. A Governor is the safety-valve of a colony; withdraw
+this legitimate object of abuse, and the whole community would be at
+loggerheads. A state of anarchy would be the immediate consequence,
+and broil and blood-shed would prevail throughout the land.
+Sometimes a Governor forgets the purpose for which he was sent out
+from home, and placed on high in a colony, as a rubbing-post; he
+sometimes lapses into the error of fancying himself a colonial Solon,
+and strives to distinguish his reign by the enactment of laws, which
+only increase the natural irritability of the settlers, and cause him
+to be more rubbed against than ever. On these occasions he is not
+always entitled to much sympathy; but when private parties come
+crowding round him to have the consequence of their follies averted,
+or merely in a state of discontented irritation, to have their backs
+scratched, his poor Excellency is much to be compassionated.
+
+Almost every morning a long-eared crowd assembles around the
+Government-offices, where the rubbing-post is set up, and one after
+another they are admitted to find what relief they may from this
+cheap luxury. It is pleasant to observe that they almost all come
+out again with smiling countenances. For a moment, the sense of pain
+or discontent has been alleviated by the gentle application.
+
+Sometimes an honest farmer has ridden fifty miles in order to have
+the pleasure of complaining to his Excellency of the
+mal-administration of the post-office department, evidenced by the
+non-delivery of a letter, which, after a vast deal of investigation
+and inquiry, turns out never to have been posted. Sometimes a man
+comes for advice as to the propriety of going to law with his
+neighbour about a bull which had taken the liberty to eat some of his
+turnips. One man wishes to have his Excellency's opinion upon a
+disease which has lately broken out among his pigs; another has
+mysteriously carried a piece of iron-stone in his pocket for a
+hundred miles, and claims the reward for the discovery of a
+coal-mine; a third has a plan to propose for fertilizing the
+sand-plains around Perth, by manuring them with sperm oil. Some are
+desirous that their sons should be made Government clerks, and insist
+upon their right to all vacant appointments on the plea of being "old
+settlers." Others have suggestions to make the neglect of which
+would prove ruinous to the colony: general misery is only to be
+averted by the repeal of the duty on tobacco: no more ships need be
+expected (this is after a gale and wreck,) unless a break-water be
+constructed, which may be done for ninety-five thousand pounds, and
+there was a surplus revenue last year over the expenditure of
+thirteen shillings and sixpence, the local government being also
+indebted to the Commissariat chest in the sum of nine hundred pounds
+odd. Some complain of roads and bridges being in a defective state,
+and wonder why two thousand pounds extra per annum are not laid out
+upon them; these are succeeded by a deputation from the inhabitants
+of Rockingham, requesting, as a matter of right, that half that sum
+may be applied in ornamenting their principal square with a botanical
+garden. Then the Governor has to attend to complaints against public
+officers. The Commissioner of the Civil Court has proved himself to
+be an unjust judge by deciding for the defendant contrary to the
+truth, as proved by the plaintiff; or the Commissioner of the Court
+of Requests has received a bribe of three-and-fourpence, and refused
+to listen to the complainant's story. The magistrates have granted a
+spirit license to a notorious character, and denied one to the
+applicant, an unimpeachable householder. The Post-Master General has
+embezzled a letter, or the Colonial Secretary has neglected to reply
+to one.
+
+All these things, and a thousand others, the Governor is expected to
+listen to, inquire about, remedy, or profit by.
+
+One day, I remember, I went myself to complain of the absurdity of an
+Act of Council which I thought might be advantageously amended by the
+aid of a little light which had lately dawned upon me.
+
+Among those who haunted the ante-room, waiting for admittance to the
+rubbing-post was a tall Irish woman, who had seen better days, but
+was now reduced to much distress, and was besides not altogether
+right in her intellects.
+
+She was in the frequent habit of attending there, for the purpose of
+complaining against the Advocate General, who never paid her proper
+attention when she went to lay her grievances before him. This woman
+was the terror of the Government officers. She never allowed her
+victim to escape when once she had begun her story; -- in vain might
+he try to edge away towards the door -- if he were not to be retained
+by the fascination of her voice, she would seize him by the coat with
+a grasp of iron, and a fly might as well try to escape from a
+pot-bellied spider. Whenever she appeared, no public officer was
+ever to be found. A general epidemic seemed to have fallen upon the
+offices, and exterminated all the inhabitants. The Colonial
+Secretary would rush out to luncheon, deaf as an adder to the cries
+of female distress that rang in the troubled air behind him. The
+Advocate General, hearing the well-known voice inquiring for him in
+no friendly key, would hurry away through an opposite door, and dive
+into the woods adjoining Government-house, and there gnaw his nails,
+in perturbation of spirit until he thought the evil was overpast.
+His Excellency himself would sooner have seen the Asiatic cholera
+walk into the room than Miss Maria Martin, and invariably turned
+paler then his writing-paper, and shuddered with a sudden ague. She
+had so many wrongs to complain of, which no human power could
+redress, and she required so much to be done for her, and insisted
+upon having reiterated promises to that effect, that no wonder she
+excited the utmost terror in the minds of all whom she approached.
+She was, moreover, a huge, brawny, fierce-looking creature, and
+though upwards of fifty years of age, had the strength of an Irish
+porter. She was reported on one occasion to have taken a gentleman
+of high reputation, and unimpeachable morals, by the collar of his
+coat, and pinned him up against the wall, until he had promised to
+speak for her to the Governor; and when he subsequently accused her
+of this violence, she retorted by saying that it was in self-defence,
+as he had attempted improper liberties. The fear of such an
+unscrupulous and cruel accusation made Government officers,
+especially the married ones, extremely shy of granting a tete-a-tete
+conversation to Miss Martin; and as no one was, of course, more
+correct in his conduct than his Excellency the Governor, no wonder
+that he should feel extremely nervous whenever he was surprised into
+an interview with this interesting spinster.
+
+When I found her in the ante-room I naturally recoiled, and tried to
+back out again, smiling blandly all the time, as one does when a
+violent-looking dog comes up, and begins sniffing about your legs.
+Miss Martin, however, was used to these manoeuvres, and suddenly
+getting between me and the door, intercepted my retreat, and insisted
+on telling me, for the twentieth time, how villanously the Advocate
+General had deceived her. Escape was impossible; I groaned and
+sweated with anguish, but listen I must, and had to suffer martyrdom
+for an hour, when the Governor's door opened, and he himself looked
+out. On seeing the Gorgon he tried to withdraw, but she pounded like
+a tigress through the door-way, and slamming the door after her,
+secured an audience with his Excellency, which she took care should
+not be a short one. I could remain no longer, and therefore owe the
+rest of the story to public report. After an hour's tete-a-tete, his
+Excellency's voice grew more imperative. The clerks, highly
+interested, conceived that he was insisting upon her withdrawing. It
+is supposed that he could not possibly escape himself, as she of
+course cut off all communication with either the door or the
+bell-rope. The lady's voice also waxed higher; at length it rose
+into a storm. Nothing more was heard of the poor Governor beyond a
+faint, moaning sound; whether he was deprecating the tempest, or
+being actually strangled, became a matter of grave speculation. Some
+asserted that they heard his kicks upon the floor, others could only
+hear convulsive sobs; then all fancied they could distinguish the
+sounds of a struggle. The officials debated whether it would be
+proper or indelicate to look in upon the interview; but it became so
+evident that a scuffle was going on, that the private secretary's
+anxiety overcame all other considerations. The door was opened just
+as his Excellency, escaping from the grasp of the mad woman, had made
+a vault at the railing which ran across the farther end of the
+Council Room (to keep back the public on certain days), in hopes of
+effecting his escape by the door beyond. Nothing could have been
+better conceived than this design; but unhappily the lady had caught
+hold of his coat-tail to arrest his flight, and therefore instead of
+vaulting clear over the rails, as he had anticipated, his Excellency
+was drawn back in his leap, and found himself seated astride upon the
+barrier, with a desperate woman tugging at his tail, and trying to
+pull him back into the arena. Nothing, we believe, has ever exceeded
+the ludicrous misery displayed in his Excellency's visage on finding
+himself in this perilous situation. But seeing the private secretary
+and a mob of clerks, with their pens in their hands, hastening to his
+rescue, he made a desperate effort, and cast himself off on the other
+side; and finally succeeded in rushing out of the room, having only
+one tail hanging to his coat, with which he escaped into an adjoining
+apartment, and was received into the arms of the Surveyor General in
+a state of extreme exhaustion.
+
+Such are some of the troubles and afflictions incident to the
+unenviable office of Governor of a colony. Those innocent country
+gentlemen who have expended the better part of their property on
+contested elections, and now weary heaven and Her Majesty's Principal
+Secretaries of State for colonial appointments, little know what they
+invoke upon themselves. In my opinion Sancho Panza had a sinecure,
+compared with theirs, in his Governorship of the island of Barrataria.*
+
+
+[footnote] *Our love of the ludicrous frequently makes us delighted
+to find even the most estimable characters in a ridiculous position.
+The above anecdote is perhaps exaggerated, but it is here recorded as
+a moral warning to those who yearn like Sancho Panza for a
+government, and not from a desire to cast ridicule upon one who was
+universally respected and esteemed, for the quiet decorum of his
+life, his high principles, his strict impartiality, and the
+conscientious discharge of all the duties of his office.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 20.
+
+MR. SAILS, MY GROOM. -- OVER THE HILLS. -- A SHEEP STATION.
+
+Soon after I was settled in my residence at Perth I purchased a
+couple of young mares unbroke, recently imported from the Cape of
+Good Hope. They were the offspring of an Arab horse and Cape mare,
+and one of them, a chestnut, was almost the handsomest creature I
+ever beheld. They cost me thirty guineas each; but since that period
+the value of horses is greatly diminished.
+
+I was very much pleased with this purchase, which recalled the
+memories of boyhood and a long-tailed pony, whenever I found myself
+feeding or grooming my stud -- which I often thought proper to do, as
+my establishment, though at that time numerous, did not comprise a
+well-educated groom.
+
+Besides my own man, I had two runaway sailors from the ship in which
+we had come out, quartered upon me. They expressed so flattering a
+regard for me, as the only person whom they knew in this part of the
+world, and were so ready to dig the garden and plant potatoes, or do
+any other little matter to make themselves useful, that I had not the
+heart to refuse them a nook in the kitchen, or a share of our daily
+meals. I now called their services into activity by making them
+assist at the breaking in of my mares; and whilst I held the
+lunging-rein, Mr. Sails would exert himself till he became as black
+as a sweep with dust and perspiration, by running round and round in
+the rear of the animal, urging her forward with loud cries and
+objurgations, accompanied with furious crackings of his whip. These
+sailors never did anything quietly. If told to give the horses some
+hay, they would both start up from their stools by the kitchen fire,
+as if in a state of frantic excitement; thrust their pipes into the
+leathern belt which held up their trousers, and jostling each other
+through the doorway like a brace of young dogs, tear round the house
+to the stable, or rather shed, as though possessed by a legion of
+devils. Then, unable to use a fork, they would seize as much hay as
+they could clasp in their arms, and littering it all about the
+premises, rush to the stalls, where they suddenly grew exceedingly
+cautious; for in fact, they felt much greater dread of these horses
+than they would have done of a ground shark. Then it was all, "Soh!
+my little feller! Soh! my pretty little lass! -- Avast there -- (in
+a low tone) you lubber, or I'll rope's end you -- none of that!"
+This was whenever the mare, pleased at the sight of the hay, looked
+round and whinnied. Unless I superintended the operation myself, the
+hay would be thrown under the horse's feet, whilst the men took to
+their heels at the same moment, and then turned round to see whether
+the animals could reach their fodder. If they could, these worthy
+grooms would come cheerfully to me and tell me that the horses were
+eating their allowance; but if not, they filled their pipes, and took
+a turn out of the way, trusting the hay would all be trampled into
+the litter before I happened to see it. Whenever I was present, I
+made them get upon the manger and put the hay into the rack, (I never
+could teach them to use a fork,) but it was with fear and trembling
+that they did this. One day, Sails was standing on the manger, with
+the hay in his arms, when the mare, trying to get a mouthful,
+happened to rub her nose against the hinder portion of his person.
+Sails roared aloud, and let the hay fall upon the mare's head and
+neck.
+
+"What's the matter, man?" said I.
+
+"By Gad, sir," cried Sails, looking round with a face of terror, and
+scrambling down, "he's tuk a bite out of my starn!"
+
+After the horses had been well lunged it became necessary to mount
+them. In vain, however, I tried to persuade Sails or his comrade
+Dick to get upon their backs. I therefore mounted first myself, and
+after a deal of plunging and knocking about was dismounted again,
+with the mare, who had thrown herself down, actually kneeling upon my
+body. All this time, Sails stood helplessly looking on open-mouthed,
+holding the lunging-rein in his hands; and I had to call to him to
+"pull her off" before he made any attempt to give assistance. This
+accident effectually prevented my gallant grooms from trusting
+themselves on horseback; but they proved more useful in breaking in
+the animals to draw the light cart. One would ride whilst the other
+drove, and their nautical phrases, and seaman-like style of steering
+the craft, as they called it, excited the admiration of the
+neighbourhood. But they never could bring themselves to like the
+employment of tending horses; and finding that I insisted upon their
+making themselves useful in this way, they at last gave me up, and
+volunteered as part of the crew of a vessel about to sail for
+Sincapore.
+
+Long after this period I drove the dog-cart over the hills to York
+races. My brother had come down to Perth, and we went together,
+taking with us our friend the amiable and talented editor of one of
+the Perth journals. Attaching another horse to an outrigger, we
+drove unicorn, or a team of three.
+
+It was a splendid October morning, (the commencement of summer,) and
+we rattled over the long and handsome wooden bridges that cross the
+two streams of the Swan, at a spanking pace, whilst the worthy
+editor, exulting in his temporary emancipation from office, made the
+wooded banks of the river ring again with the joyous notes of his
+key-bugle.
+
+Half an hour carried us over five miles of road, and brought us to
+Mangonah, the beautifully situated dwelling of R. W. Nash, Esq.,
+barrister at law, the most active-minded and public-spirited man in
+the colony. After a short delay, to laugh at one of our friend's
+last coined and most facetious anecdotes, and also to visit his
+botanical garden, we rattled off again to Guildford; a scattered
+hamlet that was made acquainted with our approach by loud strains
+from the editor's bugle. Here, however, we paused not, but proceeded
+along a hard and good road towards Green Mount, the first hill which
+we had to ascend. Green Mount, six miles from Guildford, is famous
+for a desperate skirmish which took place some years ago between a
+large body of natives and Messrs. Bland and Souper, at the head of a
+party escorting provisions from Perth to the infant settlement at
+York. Whilst slowly ascending the hill, a thick flight of spears
+fell among the party, wounding several of them. No enemy was
+visible, and the greatest consternation prevailed among the men, who
+hastened to shelter themselves under the carts. This induced the
+natives to rush out of their ambush, when they were received with a
+shower of balls; and at length driven back, after losing a good many
+men. Mr. Souper had several spears sticking in his body, and others
+of the English were severely wounded, but none mortally.
+
+The natives are very tenacious of life, and so are all the birds and
+animals indigenous to the country.
+
+The natives often have spears thrust completely through their bodies,
+and without any serious injury, receive wounds that would prove
+mortal to the whites. A vagabond who had speared one of those noble
+rams of ours, of whom honourable mention has been already made, was
+shot by our shepherd whilst in the act of decamping with the carcase.
+The ball passed completely through his lungs, and would have made an
+end of any white man; but the native recovered in the course of a few
+days, and walked a hundred miles heavily ironed, to take his trial
+for sheep-stealing at the Quarter Sessions.
+
+From Guildford to the foot of Green Mount, the country presents a
+vast plain of cold clayey soil, unfit for cultivation, and though
+covered with scrub, affording very little useful herbage.
+
+On ascending the hill, we come upon what is generally called the
+iron-stone range, which extends nearly to York, a distance of forty
+miles. These extensive hills (about fifteen hundred feet above the
+level of the sea) are composed almost entirely of granite rocks, with
+occasional tracts of quartz; and the surface is generally strewn over
+with a hard loose rubble.
+
+Although the sides and summits of the hills present scarcely any
+appearance of soil, vast forests of large Jarra trees, and other
+varieties of the eucalyptus, extend in every direction; and flowers
+the most beautiful relieve the sombre appearance of the ground. Some
+few of the valleys afford a few acres of alluvial soil; and in the
+first of these, called Mahogany Creek, six miles from Green Mount, we
+found a comfortable way-side house, with good out-buildings, and
+other accommodations; and here we halted to lunch, and bait our
+horses.
+
+Many other individuals, bent upon the same journey as ourselves, were
+lounging and smoking before the house, or partaking of the
+refreshments. Most were travelling on horseback; some in gigs, and
+some in light spring-carts. A famous round of cold beef, with
+bottled ale and porter, proved extremely agreeable after our drive.
+
+In the afternoon we proceeded fifteen miles farther, to the half-way
+house, where on my first arrival in the colony I had been initiated
+into the art of cooking a saddle of kangaroo, and serving it up with
+mint-sauce. The road, through a dense forest of evergreen trees, is
+excessively dreary, and the quarters for the night were never very
+satisfactory; but the traveller might always look forward to a
+comfortable sitting-room, kangaroo steaks and pork, with plenty of
+fresh eggs and good bread. Since that time the house has been given
+up by the energetic landlord; and the Local Government is partly
+responsible for the loss of this accommodation, in consequence of
+having insisted upon a heavy license being annually taken out. In
+good times, when the farm-settlers of the York and Northam districts
+brought their wool and other produce down this road to the capital,
+they invariably spent a merry evening at the half-way house; but
+since money has become scarcer in the colony, they have been
+compelled to avoid this place of entertainment, and kindle instead a
+fire by the road-side, where they spend their evenings in solitary
+meditation, to the advantage doubtless of their minds and purses. In
+the morning, full of philosophical thoughts and fried rashers of
+pork, they calmly yoke their bullocks to the wain, unafflicted by
+those pangs which were often the only acknowledgment rendered to the
+hospitality of Mr. Smith -- pangs of mental remorse and a bilious
+stomach. And yet the worthy host never suffered a guest whom he
+respected to depart without administering to him what he called "a
+doctor" -- of which, about five o'clock in the morning, the poor man
+usually felt himself much in need; and at that hour, as Aurora
+entered at the window, would mine host (equally rosy-cheeked) enter
+by the door, and deliver his matutinal salutation. This "doctor," a
+character universally esteemed by travellers in those parts, was a
+tumbler of milk fresh from the cow, tinctured with brandy.
+
+The glory had not departed from the half-way house at the period to
+which I refer; and as we drove up to the door, amid the liveliest
+strains of the editorial bugle, our jovial host welcomed us with his
+heartiest greeting. This spot is truly an oasis in the desert,
+affording a few acres of tolerable land, and some excellent
+garden-ground which, in the season, produces abundance of grapes,
+peaches, apples, figs, and various kinds of vegetables. A deep brook
+runs at the bottom of the garden which is very well watered; and on
+its margin, in the midst of a green plot, protected by palings from
+rude encroachment, is the quiet grave of one of Mr. Smith's children.
+How different looks the solitary grave of the desert from the crowded
+churchyards of England! How much more home it comes to the heart!
+Across the brook is a large barley-field, and down the valley are
+several other inclosures; all around, beyond these, is the dark,
+melancholy, illimitable forest. At one end of the house, which is of
+goodly size, stands a huge erection of wood, resembling a gallows,
+from which are suspended the bodies of three kangaroos. Not far from
+this, a group of natives -- men, women, and children -- are squatted
+round a small fire, eating baked opossums, and chattering, and
+uttering shrill screams of laughter, with all their might. Half a
+dozen large kangaroo dogs are hanging about this group with wistful
+eyes, but evidently without any expectations of obtaining a morsel.
+
+The house, being filled with people on their way to the races,
+resounded all the evening with jokes and merriment; and when the
+well-disposed retired to bed, and flattered themselves they were just
+sinking into repose, a mob of their evil-minded friends, headed by an
+Irish barrister and the usually sedate Crown Solicitor, beat down the
+door, and pulled them forth again. Then were the four walls of the
+room (which contained four beds) made witnesses to a scene exhibiting
+all the horrors of war. Dreadful was the conflict: bolsters and
+carpet-bags were wielded with fierce animosity; pillows and rolled-up
+blankets flew about the room like cannon-shot; and long was the
+contest doubtful, until the despair of the besieged at length
+overcame the impetuosity of the assailants, and succeeded in driving
+them from the apartment.
+
+The half-way house was often so crowded that some of the guests had
+to sleep upon the dining-table, the sofas, and the floor. At early
+dawn it was usually cleared of its visitors, who would push on to
+breakfast at Mahogany Creek; or if going to York, at St. Roman's
+Well, distant some fifteen miles. It was here that we breakfasted,
+sitting upon the grass, whilst with our camp-kettle we boiled our
+chocolate, and enjoyed our morning meal exceedingly.
+
+York is a scattered hamlet of good farm-houses. The country is
+highly interesting. A lofty hill, or mountain, called Mount Bakewell,
+confines the view on one side, and below it is the river Avon, a
+broad stream in winter, but in summer consisting only of deep pools
+in various parts of its course. The neighbourhood is beautifully
+wooded, and has the appearance of a park. In the centre of the
+hamlet a modest-looking, white-washed church "rears its meek fane."
+Nothing could be more peaceful and serene than the whole aspect of
+the place.
+
+At my brother's farm, comprising 4,000 acres, the property of R. H.
+Bland, Esq., Protector of Natives, we found a hearty reception, and a
+very pleasant dwelling-house. For several days it was filled with
+young men who had come from various parts of the colony to attend the
+races.
+
+These gentlemen were most of them young men of good family, and well
+educated, who having only a small patrimony, and having been brought
+up to no trade or profession, had come out to a colony in the hope of
+acquiring landed estates, and of founding in this part of the world a
+family of their own. In the meantime they had to drive their teams,
+shear their sheep, thresh their corn, and exhibit their skill in
+husbandry; whilst their houses were as ill arranged and uncomfortable
+as could be expected from the superintendence of bachelors who
+thought more of their stables than of the appearance of their rooms.
+They care more about good horses than good cooks, and in most cases
+prefer doing without kitchen stuff rather than be troubled with a
+garden.
+
+Freedom of discourse and ease of manner characterize the social
+meetings of our bachelor aristocracy "over the hills."
+
+Dinner is only to be obtained by dint of incessant shouting to the
+slave (frequently an Indian Coolie) who presides in the detached
+kitchen, and brings in the viands as fast as he "dishes up." The
+roast mutton gradually cools upon the table while Mooto is
+deliberately forking the potatoes out of the pot, and muttering
+curses against his master, who stands at the parlour-door, swearing
+he will wring his ears off if he does not despatch. In order to
+moderate the anguish of stomach experienced by the guests, the host
+endeavours to fill up the time by sending the sherry round. The
+dinner is at length placed upon the table, and Mooto scuffles out of
+the room whilst his master is busy carving, lest he should be
+compelled to wait, an occupation less agreeable than that to which he
+returns, and which engages most of his time -- sitting on an upturned
+box before the fire, and smoking his pipe. Here, piously thanking
+Vishnu and Brama for such good tobacco, he puffs away, heedless of
+the shouts of his suzerain, who has just discovered there are only
+eight plates for twelve people. One of the guests volunteers a foray
+into Mooto's territory, chiefly for the sake of relieving his own
+feelings by making that worthy acquainted with the opinion he
+entertains of him, and returns to his seat with cold plates and a
+tranquillized mind.
+
+When the villain lacquey has smoked his pipe, he brings in the
+cheese, and clears away. No unnecessary feelings of delicacy
+restrain the guests from reviling him seriatim as he removes the
+platters; and he retires to his own den and the enjoyment of a pound
+of boiled rice with undisturbed equanimity, leaving the others to
+boil the kettle and concoct egg-flip, which, together with wine,
+brandy, cigars, and pipes, enables the party to get through the
+afternoon. Some remain at the table, drinking out of wine-glasses,
+tumblers, or pannikins (every vessel which the house contains being
+put in requisition), and talking loudly about their horses, or making
+bets for the next day's races; others having thrown off their coats,
+and flung their persons upon a sofa, with their feet on a
+window-sill, puff away in meditative silence, only joining
+occasionally in the conversation; whilst two or three walk up and
+down the verandah, in solemn consultation as to the best mode of
+hedging, having unhappily backed a colt for the Margaux Cup that
+turns out to be a dunghill.
+
+I trust my good friends over the hills will not think I am making an
+ungrateful return for much hospitality by this rough and imperfect
+sketch. Heaven knows they are a worthy, kind-hearted, hospitable set
+of good fellows as ever drew a cork or made egg-flip; but I must say
+some of the bachelor establishments are rather in a rude and
+primitive state at present.
+
+Those houses which are fortunate enough to possess a presiding genius
+in the gentle and attractive form of Woman are very differently
+ordered. English neatness and English comforts pervade the
+establishment, and the manners and customs of well-regulated society
+are never forgotten.
+
+It is a pleasant sight in the evening to watch the cattle driven into
+the stock-yard by the native boy, who has been with them all day in
+the bush. Some of the old cows go steadily enough in the right
+direction, but others, and especially the young heifers, are
+continually bunting one another, and trying to push their next
+neighbours into the ditch. Several, tempted by a pleasant field of
+barley, have leapt over a broken rail, and are eating and trampling
+down all before them. But soon they are perceived by the dusky
+herdsman, who incontinently shrieks like one possessed by demons, and
+rushing after the stray kine with a bough hastily picked up, chases
+and belabours them up and down the field (the gate of which he has
+never thought of opening), until he has done as much mischief as
+possible to the crop. Somebody then opens the gate for him, and the
+cattle are at length secured in the yard.
+
+Next arrives a flock of two thousand sheep, driven by white
+shepherds. On coming to the entrance of the fold-yard, they stop and
+hesitate, refusing to enter. All is uncertainty and confusion, the
+rearmost urged forward by the shout of the men and the barking of the
+dogs, who run from side to side, thrusting their noses into the soft
+white fleeces, press into the mass; great is the scuffle, the rush,
+and the pattering of feet over the loose pebbles of the yard. At
+length, a hardy and determined ram in the vanguard gives a leap of
+ten feet through the open gateway, and the others hustle through
+after him, every one leaping as he had done, and all congratulating
+themselves on having thus cleverly eluded the designs of some unseen
+enemy.
+
+I do not intend to give an account of the races, though they afforded
+more amusement probably than is common at Epsom or Ascot. Every one
+knew everybody and everybody's horse; and as the horses were
+generally ridden by gentlemen, there was no doubt of fair play.
+There was an accident, as usual, in the hurdle-race; but not being
+fatal, it did not interrupt the sports. Large groups of the natives,
+sitting on the ground, or standing leaning on their spears, gave
+increased effect to the picturesque scenery. Some clumps of
+forest-trees still occupied the centre of the course, and through
+these you caught glimpses of coloured jackets and jockey-caps as they
+flashed by. The green side of Mount Bakewell was spotted with sheep,
+and above them frowned a forest of dark trees.
+
+A loaf of bread stuck upon a spear was a mark and a prize for native
+dexterity. The dusky savages forming a line in front, and clustering
+eagerly upon one another behind, took their turns to throw at the
+coveted target; and every time that a spear left the womera, or
+throwing-stick, and missed the mark, a shrill yell burst
+simultaneously from the mass, relieving the excitement which had been
+pent up in every breast. But when a successful spear struck down the
+loaf, trebly wild and shrill was the yell that rent the air.
+
+The York and Northam districts afford a vast quantity of land
+suitable for all kinds of grain. The sheep and cattle runs are
+excellent, but they are now fully stocked, and new settlers must
+direct their steps to the southward, the Dale and Hotham districts
+affording scope and verge enough for many a flock and herd. Our own
+sheep were generally kept at a squatting station on the Hotham, some
+sixty or seventy miles south of York. Thither, after the races, we
+drove to inspect the flock. There was no road, and only an endless
+succession of trees, and of gently rising and falling country. How
+my brother and his men used to manage to hit upon the site of the
+location is more than I can conjecture. People accustomed to the
+bush seem to acquire, like the natives, the faculty of knowing
+exactly the direction, position, and distance of the spot they want
+to reach.
+
+On the way, we fell in with one of those extraordinary nests
+constructed by that singular bird called by the natives the Now. Mr.
+Gould's description of a similar bird in New South Wales, the Brush
+Turkey 'Talegalla Lathami' does not exactly tally with that which we
+should give of the Now. His description is as follows: -- "For some
+weeks previous to laying its eggs, the Brush turkey collects together
+an immense mass of vegetable matter, varying from two to four
+cart-loads, with which it forms a pyramidal heap; in this heap it
+plants its eggs about eighteen inches deep, and from nine to twelve
+inches apart. The eggs are always placed with the large ends
+upwards, being carefully covered, and are then left to hatch by the
+heat engendered by the decomposition of the surrounding matter. The
+heaps are formed by the labours of several pairs of birds. The eggs
+are white, about three inches and three quarters long by two and a
+half in diameter, and have an excellent flavour."
+
+Of this bird, Professor Owen observes, "On comparing the osteology of
+the 'Talegalla' with that of other birds, it exhibits all the
+essential modifications which characterize the gallinaceous tribe;
+and among the Rasores, it most nearly resembles the genera Penelope
+and Crax."
+
+The Now of Western Australia does not build its nest of vegetable
+substances, but collects together an immense heap of earth, sand, and
+small stones, into the form of a broad cone, four or five feet high
+in the centre, and about ten feet across. Directly in the centre it
+either leaves or subsequently hollows out a hole large enough to
+admit itself, into which it descends and deposits its eggs. The
+powerful summer sun heats the earth sufficiently to hatch the eggs,
+and the young birds come forth active and able to provide for
+themselves. Not the least astonishing part to me is, how they manage
+to scramble out of that deep hole. The natives declare that the hen
+frequently visits the nest, and watches the progress of incubation,
+and then when the young ones are hatched, they get upon her back, and
+she scrambles out with her family about her.
+
+This bird is about the size of a pheasant, has long legs, and a very
+deep breast-bone. It runs fast. Each nest is supposed to be built
+by a single bird, but it is believed that other birds may occupy them
+in succeeding seasons.
+
+In the afternoon of the second day after leaving York, we descended
+into a broad valley, abounding with grass and scattered gum-trees. A
+large flock of sheep were being driven towards the bottom of the
+valley, where we could discern signs of human habitation.
+
+On arriving, we found a hut built of piles or stakes interwoven with
+boughs, before the door of which was a fire with a large pot upon it,
+from which a powerful steam arose that was evidently very grateful to
+a group of natives seated around. Two families seemed to compose
+this group, consisting of a couple of men, four women, and five or
+six children of various ages. As we drew nigh, the whole party,
+without rising, uttered a wild scream of welcome, accompanied by that
+loud laughter which always seems to escape so readily from this
+light-hearted and empty-headed people.
+
+On descending from the vehicle, and looking in at the hut door, we
+perceived lying in his shirt-sleeves on a couch composed of
+grass-tree tops covered with blankets and a rug made of opossum
+skins, the illustrious Meliboeus himself, with a short black pipe in
+his mouth, and a handsome edition of "Lalla Rookh" in his hand.
+Perceiving us, he jumped up, and expressing his loud surprise,
+welcomed us to this rustic Castle of Indolence.
+
+When a large flock of sheep is sent into the bush, and a squatting
+station is formed, the shepherds take the sheep out to pasture every
+morning, and bring them home at night, whilst one of the party always
+remains at the station to protect the provisions from being stolen by
+the natives. This person is called the hut-keeper. His duty is to
+boil the pork, or kangaroo flesh, and provide supper, etc., for the
+shepherds on their return at night. Meliboeus, who superintended
+this station, undertook the duties of cooking and guarding the hut
+whenever he did not feel disposed to go out kangaroo-hunting, or
+shooting wild turkeys or cockatoos. In all things, sports or
+labours, the natives were his daily assistants, and in return for
+their services were rewarded with the fore-quarters of the kangaroos
+killed, and occasionally with a pound or two of flour. There were
+some noble dogs at the station, descendants of Jezebel and Nero; and
+my brother had a young kangaroo, which hopped in and out with the
+utmost confidence, coming up to any one who happened to be eating,
+and insisting upon having pieces of bread given to it. Full of fun
+and spirits, it would sport about as playfully as a kitten; and it
+was very amusing to see how it would tease the dogs, pulling them
+about with its sharp claws, and trying to roll them over on the
+ground. The dogs, who were in the daily habit of killing kangaroos,
+never attempted to bite Minny, who sometimes teased them so heartily,
+that they would put their tails between their legs and fairly run
+away.
+
+The great enemies of the sheep in the Australian colonies are the
+wild-dogs. At York, and in the other settled districts, they are
+very troublesome, and require the shepherd to keep a constant
+lookout. We were therefore much surprised to learn that although
+wild dogs abounded near this squatting station, they never attempted
+to touch our flocks. A sheep was to them a new animal; they had yet
+to learn the value of mutton. A cowardly race, they are easily
+intimidated, and as they have not the art of jumping or clambering
+over a fence, a low sheep-fold will keep them out, provided they
+cannot force their way under the palings or hurdles. They cannot
+bark, and utter only a melancholy howl. The bitch generally litters
+in a hollow tree, and produces four or five puppies at a birth.
+
+The production of wool -- the careful acquisition of a good flock of
+well-bred sheep, and the attainment of the highest degree of
+perfection in preparing the fleeces for the English market -- appears
+to us to be the proper ambition of an emigrant to the Australian
+colonies. When ill-health compelled my steps hither, it was the
+intention of myself and brothers to invest our capital entirely in
+sheep; and retiring into the bush for some six or seven years,
+gradually accumulate a large flock, the produce of which would soon
+have afforded a handsome income. It has never, however, appeared to
+be the object of either the Home Government or the Local Government
+of any colony (though unquestionably the interest of both) to
+encourage emigration. Settlers have invariably every possible
+difficulty thrown in their way. On arriving in this colony, we found
+to our astonishment that squatting was illegal, and that we would not
+be allowed, as we had designed to carry our goods into the interior
+and form a station upon Government land. No license could at that
+time be obtained, and if we bought the smallest section allowed to be
+sold, which was 640 acres, for as many pounds, it was ten to one but
+we should soon find the district in which it was situated
+insufficient for the run of a large flock, and should have to change
+our quarters again. The consequence was, that we were compelled to
+abandon our project: my brothers took a farm at a high rent, and
+wasted their capital upon objects that could never bring in a good
+return; whilst I (infelix!), instead of listening to the gentle
+bleatings of sheep, and ministering to the early comforts of innocent
+lambs, have been compelled to hearken to the angry altercations of
+plaintiff and defendant, and decide upon the amount of damages due to
+injured innocence when the pot had insulted the kettle.
+
+Now, however, limited licenses are granted to persons wishing to go
+as squatters upon Government land; and even before these were issued,
+we were OBLIGED to send our sheep upon Crown lands, and form a
+station, for want of room in the settled districts.
+
+Sheep flocks constitute doubtlessly one of the most profitable
+investments for the employment of capital, notwithstanding the many
+obstacles and discouragements still thrown by both governments in the
+way of the wool-grower. They yield a very large return TO THOSE WHO
+ATTEND TO THEM IN PERSON, and who confine their attention entirely to
+that pursuit, growing only corn enough for their own consumption.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 21.
+
+EXTRACTS FROM THE LOG OF A HUT-KEEPER.
+
+May 10th. -- Felt rather lonely to-day, in the midst of this endless
+solitude. Sat before the hut-door thinking of Zimmerman and his
+Reflections. Also thought of Brasenose, Oxford, and my narrow escape
+from Euclid and Greek plays. Davus sum, non Oedipus. Set to work,
+and cooked a kangaroo stew for the three shepherds.
+
+June 4th. -- We have removed the sheep from the Dale to the Avon. We
+go wandering about with our flocks and baggage like the Israelites of
+old, from one patch of good grass to another. I wonder how long it
+will be before we make our fortunes?
+
+28th. -- K. arrived from York with a supply of flour, pork, tea and
+sugar. Brings no news from England, or anywhere else. Where the
+deuce are all the ships gone to, that we get no letters? Moved the
+station to Corbeding.
+
+29th. -- K. returned to York with his bullock-cart. No chance of my
+being relieved at present. Went out by myself kangarooing. The pup,
+Hector, out of Jezebel, will make a splendid dog. First kangaroo
+fought like a devil; Hector, fearing nothing, dashed at him, and got
+a severe wound in the throat; but returned to the charge, after
+looking on for a few moments. Crossed an immense grassy plain, eight
+or nine miles wide, without a tree upon it. Had to carry a kangaroo
+more than five miles on my back. Wished it at Hanover, and twice
+abandoned it, but returned for it again, being so much in want of
+fresh meat.
+
+30th. -- Spent the day in dreary solitude in the hut. All my books
+have been read, re-read, and re-re-read.
+
+July 1st. -- Went out with the dogs, and caught three kangaroos.
+Passed over some splendid country -- wish it were peopled with white
+humans. How pleasant to have been able to call at a cottage, and get
+a draught of home-brewed! On the contrary, could not find even a
+pond, or a pint of water, and was nearly worried to death by
+sand-flies.
+
+2d. -- Some scabby sheep having got among our flock, have played the
+deuce with it. The scab has regularly broke out. I had rather it
+were the plague or Asiatic cholera, and cleared them all off (my own
+sheep are fortunately at York). Dressing lambs all morning --
+beastly work. In the afternoon went out with the sheep, and left
+James to mind the hut. Sand-flies infernal.
+
+3d, Sunday. -- Stayed in the hut all day. Smoked sheep-tobacco,* all
+my Turkish being finished. Felt pious, and wrote a short sermon,
+choosing the text at random -- Jeremiah ii. 7: "And I brought you
+into a plentiful country, to eat the fruit thereof and the goodness
+thereof." Read it at night to the shepherds. James said it was
+"slap-up."
+
+
+[footnote] *Coarse pig-tail, used as a decoction for dressing the
+diseased sheep.
+
+
+4th. -- Went out kangarooing. Killed an immense fellow: when
+standing on his hind legs fighting with me and the dogs, he was a
+foot higher than myself. He ran at me, and nearly gave me a
+desperate dig with his claw, which tore my only good hunting-shirt
+miserably. Smashed his skull for it.
+
+5th and 6th. -- Dressing sheep all day. Out [band of] York natives,
+whom we have hitherto kept with us, are all gone home again, leaving
+me and my three men, with only two guns, among a suspicious and
+treacherous tribe that cannot understand a word we say to them. Wish
+my brothers would come and look after their own sheep. It would do
+E.'s health more good than sitting in Court, hearing a set of fools
+jabber. Sand-flies eat us alive here, and the mosquitoes polish our
+bones.
+
+7th. -- Muston and myself dressed fifty sheep to-day. John out with
+part of the flock.
+
+8th. -- Heavy rain last night. Cannot go on dressing. Did nothing all day.
+
+9th. -- Stayed in the hut doing nothing.
+
+10th, Sunday. -- Ditto.
+
+11th. -- Tired of doing nothing. Dressed sheep most of the day.
+Muston out kangarooing; caught three.
+
+12th. -- Cooking. Made a "sea-pie," which was generally admired.
+
+August 1st. -- The Doctor arrived from York, driving tandem in E.'s
+trap. He has brought me a parcel of books just come from England.
+Blessings on my dear sister for remembering me. I thought myself
+forgotten by all the world. Sisters (Heaven for ever bless them!)
+are the only people that never forget. News from home! How many
+thoughts come flooding upon me!
+
+2d. -- Last night, I confess, I cried myself to sleep, like a great
+big baby. I am very comfortable and contented so long as I receive
+no letter from home; and yet I am such a fool as to wish for them;
+and when they come I am made miserable for a week afterwards.
+Somehow, they make me feel my loneliness more. I feel deserted,
+forgotten by all but ONE. She says she is constantly wishing for me
+in her rides. They seem to enjoy themselves more at home than they
+used to do, now that we are gone -- always picknicking, boating, or
+forming riding parties. "Fairy" continues the favourite -- I always
+thought she was a good hack. "Light-foot," whom I lamed hunting, was
+obliged to be sold. It seems to be a sore subject with the Governor.
+I wonder how Juno has turned out; she was a splendid-looking whelp.
+I wish they'd enter more into particulars when they write. It's
+ridiculous my asking questions, as it will be more than a year before
+answers can arrive. They ought to write about EVERY THING. I cannot
+bear to think to-day of anything but home.
+
+3d. -- The Doctor gone back to York -- sulky about the sheep being so
+bad. Why does he not send us more tobacco and turpentine? Says we
+smoke it all. The Doctor is an ----. Promises to send K. next week
+with mercurial ointment; it is therefore useless to waste any more
+tobacco on the sheep -- the stock is low enough as it is.
+
+4th. -- Lay all day on my couch, reading "Rose d'Albret." Wish I had
+her here. One wants somebody to sympathize with so desperately in
+the bush.
+
+5th. -- Ditto, ditto.
+
+6th. -- Reading Punch all morning. In the afternoon made a damper,
+baked it, and eat it in company with the others. "Pit a cake, pat a
+cake, baker's man!" etc.
+
+16th. -- Dressing sheep all day with mercurial ointment. Wish this
+job was over. Dreadful work bending one's back all day, and rooting
+amongst the wool for the diseased places.
+
+18th. -- Went out with the dogs, and killed two kangaroos. It rained
+tremendously all the time, and I wish the kangaroos at the ----.
+The natives happened to be hunting in a large party, driving the game
+before them; and as I stood in the midst of a large plain which they
+had surrounded on three sides, multitudes of kangaroos -- I believe I
+might say thousands -- of all sizes, came rushing past me. The dogs
+were quite bewildered, and remained at my side aghast; and it was
+several minutes before they recovered themselves enough to give
+chase. The natives took no notice of me. In the evening fifty of
+them came about the hut. We took care to show our guns, and I shot a
+green parrot, sixty yards off, just to show them what we could do.
+They were quite peaceable, and danced a corrobery at night.
+
+20th. -- I dressed twenty-five sheep this morning myself. In the
+afternoon William came from York with six hundred more sheep (mine
+among them), which were found to be scabby. More work! This is
+really too bad, thrusting all this cursed business upon me. He had
+been four days coming, and had not lost a single sheep.
+
+21st. -- Went out kangarooing, quite disgusted. Wandered a long
+distance, and had to carry a large buck several miles. Could
+scarcely find my way back, but at length got home (!!) quite knocked
+up, and more and more disgusted with human nature and every thing.
+
+22d. -- The Doctor is enjoying himself at York, and E. lives on the
+fat of the land at Perth, whilst I have never tasted anything but
+salt pork and kangaroo for many months, and have nothing to drink but
+tea. I have almost forgotten the taste of a potato. We have nothing
+here but kangaroo and pork, and unleavened bread, called damper. I
+wish I could exchange our bill of fare occasionally with that French
+fellow who complained of having "toujours perdrix." He would be the
+loser, I take it. I could eat even perdrix aux choux -- a
+villanous dish formerly -- but we have no more cabbages than
+partridges to thank God for. I have long been obliged to leave off
+saying "grace after meat;" it really became an impious mockery, and
+was also impolitic and uneconomical, as my stomach used to turn
+against it. I consulted John this morning about killing a sheep, as
+none of them seemed inclined to die naturally. John caught at the
+idea with great quickness. He really is an intelligent fellow; and
+both he and the other poor devils are so patient and unrepining, that
+the Doctor is little better than a beast not to order them some
+mutton occasionally. I consider it absolutely necessary for their
+health. We fixed upon one of E.'s sheep, as it looked the fattest;
+and he being the richest, and never coming himself to look at his
+flock, will not care about a few sheep more or less. I'd kill one of
+my own, but they are such a seedy lot. No one is answerable for the
+murder of this sheep but myself, as I hereby confess that I killed it
+with my own hand, and afterwards held a coroner's inquest on the
+body, directing a verdict of "Visitation of Providence" to be
+recorded in the accounts relating to the flock. We had the liver for
+supper. Excellent! never tasted anything half so good.
+
+23d. -- Dined on sheep's head and trotters. (Tea to drink, toujours.)
+
+24th. -- Saddle of mutton.
+
+25th. -- Leg.
+
+26th. -- Shoulder.
+
+27th. -- Leg.
+
+28th. -- Shoulder.
+
+29th. -- Finished the sheep, and polished the bones.
+
+[The rest of the Journal runs on much in the same way. This specimen
+will probably be enough for the reader.]
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 22.
+
+PELICAN SHOOTING. -- GALES. -- WRESTLING WITH DEATH.
+
+The large estuary of the Swan affords ample scope for boating or
+sailing in small pleasure-yachts.
+
+Perth water, on the northern bank of which the capital is built,
+extends from two to three miles in length, and about the same
+distance in its broadest part, its form being that of a half moon.
+It is connected with Melville water by an opening of a quarter of a
+mile across. Melville water is some six miles long, and from three
+to four broad; a splendid bay, called Freshwater Bay, developes
+itself at the western extremity of this fine sheet of water; and the
+river, or estuary, here makes a turn at right angles, and pursues its
+course towards the sea between high precipitous rocks of marine
+limestone, which are from six to seven hundred yards apart.
+
+My pleasure-boat has enabled me to pass many agreeable hours upon
+this estuary.
+
+At first, especially, it was exceedingly pleasant to make expeditions
+for the purpose of exploring the different bays and inlets, which
+abounded with ducks, swans, and pelicans.
+
+My youngest brother and myself would frequently rise at a good hour,
+and having supplied our little vessel with a stock of provisions, and
+a few bottles of ale or other drinkables, hoist the sails, and bear
+away upon a cruise. The warm dry air, tempered by the sea-breeze,
+made boating exceedingly pleasant; and as we often touched at gardens
+situated at the mouth of the Canning, or on the shores of Melville
+water, and procured a basket of grapes, or peaches and melons, we
+managed to lunch luxuriously, having first cast anchor and bathed.
+
+Many readers must have felt the excitement experienced by young
+sportsmen when they have the luck to fall in with some bird or
+animal not previously known to them. Every one remembers the
+delight with which, when a boy, he shot his first wood-pigeon, or
+lay in ambush behind a hedge for an old crow.
+
+When first we beheld a group of huge tall birds, standing lazily in
+the sunshine upon a sand-spit which ran far into Melville water, we
+could scarcely believe our eyes that these were really live pelicans;
+and it was not only with intense interest, but with feelings of
+self-reproach, that we drew nigh with hostile intentions to birds
+which in the days of our boyhood, when visiting Mr. Wombwell's
+menagerie, had filled us with awe and reverence, as creatures that
+were wont to evince the depth of parental devotion by feeding their
+young with their own blood.
+
+Our first overt act of hostility against the pelicans was
+unsuccessful. The sea-breeze was blowing strong, and we had to beat
+out against it close-hauled; just as we made the last board, and were
+bearing down upon the enemy, the huge, heavy birds, awakening from
+the siesta "with a start," raised their heads and looked about them.
+Then the foremost began to flap his long wings, and lift himself on
+tip-toe, whilst the others followed his example; and soon they were
+all heavily skimming along the surface of the water, trying to launch
+themselves fairly into the upward air; and having at length
+succeeded, they rose higher and higher in wide gyrations. The leader
+seemed resolved to hide himself in the distant blue of the cloudless
+heavens; and upward -- up, up, up -- they continued to mount, going
+round, and round, and round, in lessening circles -- whilst the
+spectator gazed in wonder at the slowly diminishing specks, that were
+almost lost in ether; and at length, moving slowly towards the east
+-- the unknown, mysterious wilderness -- they altogether faded away.
+We have heard of eagles soaring into the sun, but I doubt whether
+even they could soar much higher, or look much grander, than the
+noble pelican of the desert.
+
+The sheets were eased off, the long boom of the graceful
+sliding-gunter (a kind of latteen) sail, stretched far over the
+gun-wale of the boat, which slipped along easily and rapidly through
+the water, the rolling waves heaving up her stern, and sending her
+forward with a gentle impulse. We were opening the broad mouth of
+the Canning, when Meliboeus pointed out two other pelicans fishing
+in-shore on the lee-bow. Gently we edged away towards them;
+Meliboeus standing before the mast with his double-barrel ready, and
+motioning to me how to steer, as the main-sail hid the birds from my
+view.
+
+They perceived us, and began to swim along shore at a rapid rate; the
+water was shoaling fast, and we greatly feared they would escape, but
+still we held on. The majestic birds rose slowly from the water, one
+following the other, and made towards the Canning. "I'll let fly at
+them" cried Meliboeus, in an intense whisper, "luff up! --
+hard-a-lee!" The helm was jammed down, and the sheet hauled in; the
+boat luffed into the wind, and became stationary, only bobbing upon
+the waves, whilst her sails shivered and rattled in the breeze.
+Meliboeus fired -- and the hindmost bird declined gradually towards
+the water; its long wings became fixed and motionless at their widest
+stretch, and slowly it sank down upon its heaving death-bed. Loud
+shouted the sportsman; and momentary envy filled the heart of him who
+steered.
+
+Away goes the boat before the freshening breeze, and soon it dashes
+past the body of the pelican, which is seized by the ready Meliboeus,
+and with great difficulty hauled on board. A shot had penetrated to
+its brain and killed it instantaneously. The wind up the Canning was
+nearly abeam, and we dashed through the deep and narrow passage
+called Hell's Gates, and held on till we came to the foot of a steep
+and rounded hill, Mount Henry. The river here turns at right angles,
+sweeping round the base of the hill, and leaving a broad and deep bay
+called Bull's Creek, to the southward. This is a famous spot for
+ducks and swans, and many a pleasant bivouac have I formed near it,
+waiting for early morn when the birds are busy feeding. As we
+rounded Mount Henry, we observed a large slate-coloured bird lazily
+flying across the river ahead of us. The Canning is here about four
+hundred yards broad, widening occasionally to a quarter of a mile.
+The wind was now right aft, and we soon came upon the line of the
+bird, which appeared to be a crested crane. The boom was topped-up
+in a moment, the jib-sheet let fly, and the boat's nose ran crashing
+through the sedges which in this part fringed the bank. The crane
+had alighted on the very summit of a straight and lofty tree, and
+there she sat, unconscious of the danger at hand.
+
+Too much excited to care for any obstacles, and with eyes ever fixed
+upon the game, I tore my way through brambles, thickets, water and
+mud, until with no little difficulty I arrived at ground free from
+underwood. The bird was still sitting patiently on her lofty perch,
+and my heart beat anxiously with hope that I should be able to creep
+within shot. What a moment of interest! It is still vivid in the
+memory, with all its doubts and fears and wildly-beating hopes. The
+crane seemed preparing to fly. Death! I felt nearly distracted with
+apprehension. The interest and excitement became intense. I crept
+from tree to tree, and whenever I thought I was observed, stood
+motionless. My eye-balls became dry and hard with incessant gazing.
+I feared to wink lest she should be gone. She extended her wings! I
+bounded forward. She was just off, and barely within reach, as I
+fired; a single number two shot struck her pinion, and down she
+tumbled to the ground with a glorious wallop.
+
+A loud shout from Meliboeus, who had sat in the boat scarcely daring
+to breathe, proclaimed the presence of a witness to my triumph.
+
+Since then I have shot cranes without emotion or much feeling of
+interest.
+
+Boating, as an amusement, ought only to be followed during the summer
+months, from the 1st of October to the 1st of April. In the winter
+season there are extremely violent gales of wind from the north-west,
+that sometimes last for three days together. Their arrival is
+generally foretold by the rapid falling of the barometer; and at
+Perth it is almost always preceded by the rising of the estuary. A
+singular storm visited the district of Australind in the night of the
+17th June, 1842. It crossed the Leschenault estuary, and entered the
+forest, making a lane through the trees from three to four hundred
+yards wide. In this lane, which extended for many miles, nothing was
+left standing but the stumps of trees; whilst the trees on either
+wide of the land stood up like a wall and were perfectly uninjured.
+The storm in its course, which was in a direct line from N.W. to S.E.
+levelled the trees in the valleys as well as those on the hills. Its
+effects were not like those of a whirlwind, when trees appear twisted
+round, and scattered in every direction; in this lane the young
+healthy trees, which were generally broken off about two or three
+yards from the ground, all lay in the same direction.
+
+Twice have I nearly paid dearly for my rashness in boating. My boat
+was once capsized in a moment in a squall, and Hannibal and myself
+were soused in the water before we knew what had happened. I caught
+hold of the bilge of the boat, and nearly drowned myself with
+laughing at the Son of Amilcar, who was splashing about shrieking
+with terror, and swallowing quarts of salt-water, as his open mouth
+popped every moment under a wave. In vain I called to him to come to
+me, and lay hold of the boat; he could neither see nor hear, and
+would have soon joined his illustrious namesake in the Elysian
+fields, had I not managed to throw the bight of a rope round his
+neck, and towed him within reach, when I held him up by the collar of
+his jacket (ducking him under water occasionally to make him cease
+from howling) until we were rescued by a fishing-boat.
+
+One day, the 11th April, 1843, feeling disposed to take my book on
+the water and enjoy the calm air, I embarked by myself -- a most
+unusual occurrence, as I scarcely ever went out alone. What little
+wind there was blew down the estuary, but only gently ruffled the
+waters; and my boat glided noiselessly before it. A couple of hours
+took me to the farther extremity of Melville water, and here it fell
+calm. I now began to feel uncomfortable, for the air was close, and
+dark clouds appeared rising in the north-west. The wind began to
+blow in gusts; a sudden puff, curling the waters, would strike the
+boat and make her heel over until her gunwale kissed the wave, as
+with a sudden start she rushed forward under the impulse of the
+blast. I was now making homeward. The heavens became black with
+angry clouds; the wind first sighed and moaned like a reluctant
+Spirit driven forth to fulfil its task of evil, feeling something of
+remorse at crimes foreshadowed and inevitable; and then working
+itself into fury, as though it would stifle thought, and crush out
+the germ of pity, the Wind in its might and rage rushed roaring over
+the waters, making the foam fly before it, and tearing up the face of
+the estuary into rugged lines of wild tumultuous waves. The little
+bark vainly strove to keep her head to the storm, which bore her down
+until the water poured over the gunwale.
+
+It was about six o'clock in the evening, and darkness, hurried on
+prematurely by the tempest, spread suddenly around. The waves, as if
+trying to leap beyond the reach of some internal agony, rolled high
+above my head, as the "Fair Maid of Perth" sank hopelessly in the
+deep channel, with rocking mast and shivering sails. But not yet
+submerged, she rose again, and fronted the storm, struggling
+desperately to reach the northern shore, which was not far distant.
+But the skies grew blacker still; the storm became a hurricane; the
+wind roared so loud that no voice of human agony or despair might be
+heard above its tremendous fury; the waves grew higher and mightier,
+and became rushing hills of water, overwhelming, irresistible. To
+me, quailing in my frail bark, in all the consciousness of
+helplessness and ruin, it seemed as though the winds and the waves
+were really sentient beings combining to overwhelm me, and increasing
+their efforts the more I struggled.
+
+This is no fiction that I am relating, but a reality that happened to
+myself, and which it would be impossible to exaggerate. Never shall
+I forget the last tremendous wave that came down upon me, impelled by
+a maddening gust which whirled tearing along through the wild air,
+and scooping its deep passage through the waters. In vain was the
+jib-sheet let fly; in vain did I luff into the wind. I could not
+quit the helm, and therefore was unable to lower the sail which in
+that hurricane could not have been got in easily, and in the meantime
+the boat, breaking off from the wind, would have been swamped. I was
+so near the shore that I hoped still to reach it, the wind being
+abeam, in the course of a few minutes. But nothing could withstand
+the last wave and blast. The boat lurched, and broke off. Hurled on
+her beam-ends, the boom was in the water; the waves rushed over the
+side; she struggled bravely, and tried to right herself; but after
+staggering forwards a few seconds, the weight of the in-rushing water
+bore her down, and she slowly fell over on her side. The sensation
+was by no means pleasant. I felt her going, without being able to
+prevent it. I glanced around for aid or hope; but there was neither.
+I could see nothing but waves, and hear nothing but the roaring
+blast. The shore was close to me, but the high waves, and the
+darkness of the hurricane, prevented my discerning even the tops of
+the trees. As the boat capsized, I kicked off my shoes and threw off
+my coat and waistcoat, and seizing the main-sheet, let myself down in
+the water, trying to find bottom, but there was none within reach.
+
+I struck out towards the shore, but the ablest swimmer that ever swam
+could have made no progress against that sea, and I could scarcely
+swim at all.
+
+I scrambled back to the boat, which now lay on her side, level with
+the surface. On getting upon her, you may conceive -- but no! you
+cannot -- the horror of the moment, as I felt her gradually go down
+-- sink, sinking beneath me. All now seemed over. My time had
+arrived; my last moment was come. I collected my thoughts, and
+prepared for it.
+
+I did not feel so much terror as I should have anticipated in such
+a scene. Death seemed inevitable, and I nerved myself, and prayed.
+All the past did NOT press upon me at this moment, in this death-
+struggle, as some readers may imagine. I thought not of my sins, nor
+of my friends, nor of time misspent and work left undone -- my whole
+mind was absorbed in the sense of DEATH and FUTURITY. The glances,
+rather than the thoughts which shot across my soul, seemed like
+revealings of immortality. My sensations were mixed of horror and
+hope; the CHANGE from the old to the new Life seemed beginning
+within me. It might have been excess of terror, but I did not feel
+terrified. I felt that all was over, and there was no room for the
+anguish that arises from doubt. All struggling was vain, and though
+in tumult and horror, I yet felt resigned. The World of Time was
+past, and new being was at hand.
+
+Such is the memory which I must ever bear of the hour when (yet
+vigorous and full of Life) I was held in the arms of Death.
+
+The boat went down. The waves rushed over me; the enemy held me by
+the throat, and seemed to press me into the opening grave. Even as
+the light faded from my eyes, and the Spirit waited for that quick,
+sharp touch of the dart which should free it from the bonds of mortal
+life, I perceived the stem of the boat rising slowly out of the
+waves, whilst the stern was borne down by my weight.
+
+Instinctively I swam forward, and got upon another part of the boat.
+Down it went again; and as the water dashed against my face, I saw
+the stern now rising up, whilst the stem plunged down into the depths
+below. I scrambled amidships; the sea and the wind struck her, and
+she rolled heavily over, righting herself for a moment, with her mast
+and sail erect; but soon she lay on her larboard side, deep in the
+water. I had been washed off her, but clung to the main-sheet, and
+so got back again. I now held on to the side with one hand, whilst I
+managed to strip off all my clothes except my shirt and flannel
+waistcoat, first taking my knife out of my pocket. With this I tried
+to cut away the stays which held the mast in its place, hoping that
+it would then fall out, and relieve the boat of the sails which
+weighed her down so low in the water. Most fortunately I had not
+sand-ballast, in tarred bags, as most of our pleasure-boats had, but
+water-ballast in breakers, which now proved no additional burthen to
+the boat. It was also fortunate that she was built partly of deal,
+and had only her lower streaks of jarra wood, which does not float.
+
+The blade of the knife, which was only a pen-knife, soon broke, and I
+was obliged to give up the attempt to remove the sails. Still the
+hurricane blew on, wild and terrible as ever; the spray washed over
+me like rain; the waves dashed me repeatedly from the boat, which was
+whirled and tossed about in a strange manner; sometimes rolling
+completely over, sometimes going down head, and sometimes stern
+foremost, I had to scramble from part to part, and exercise a good
+deal of agility in saving myself from being struck by the gunwale, or
+by the boom and sail, as they rose from the water and fell back again.
+
+And now I could see but small prospect of being eventually saved.
+The only chance was that the boat would drift, in the course of time,
+across the estuary, here nearly four miles broad. Then I tried, and
+for a long time vainly, to ascertain whether she drifted at all. The
+anchor, with about five-and-twenty feet of cable, had doubtless
+fallen out, and the boat was probably stationary. Night had set in,
+and it was too dark to distinguish even the shore with its forest of
+trees. These gales sometimes continue three days, and I knew it
+would be impossible to exist many hours immersed in water. I dreaded
+lest I should become benumbed and unable to hold on to the boat.
+
+In order to keep up circulation as much as possible, I shouted aloud,
+and rubbed my breast and thighs with my disengaged hand.
+
+Some dark object was on the water near me. It moved; it came quickly
+towards me. I could just discern that it was a whale-boat containing
+several men. It had no sails or oars, yet it flew before the blast.
+I shouted and screamed as it went by, not twenty yards from me; and
+the men turned their heads and waved their arms, and doubtless
+answered, but the gale roared with unabated fury, the waves
+intercepted them from my sight, and I could not hear their voices.*
+
+
+[footnote] *These men were about a mile and a half astern of me, when
+the hurricane began, and tried to pull in shore; but just as they
+thought to have reached it, one of their oars broke, and being now
+helpless, they were obliged to scud before the wind. By good fortune
+they were carried up the Canning, where they remained all night.
+
+
+The moon had now risen, and the clouds were partially dispersed, so
+that I could at length distinguish the woods on the weather-shore;
+and I could see the weary waste of waters over which I must drift
+before I could possibly be saved.
+
+Sometimes the wind blew with lessened violence, and I could sit upon
+the submerged bilge of the boat, and consider my state and prospects.
+After long observation, I felt assured that the boat did really
+drift, but it was very slowly; and I feared that as we approached the
+other shore, her anchor must inevitably bring her up in twenty-five
+feet water, and that nothing could save me from perishing of cold.
+It never occurred to me during this memorable night, that when I set
+sail in the afternoon I had shortened the cable to about five feet in
+length, in order the more easily to trip the anchor. This was one of
+the circumstances, providentially ordered, that tended to save my
+life.
+
+Some miles down the estuary I could distinguish a light in the house
+at Point Walter, high placed on a steep bank; there two of my friends
+were at that moment carousing, whilst I was being buffetted by waves
+and tempest, and fearing that the saturated sails and heavy wood at
+length would sink the unfortunate boat to the bottom. I yet could
+scarcely hope to escape; my mind was still made up to die, and I
+tranquilly awaited the event.
+
+The moon had now made half of her journey across the heavens; the
+wind had moderated, and I redoubled my exertions to keep off the cold
+by shouting and rubbing myself. My flannel-shirt was another
+instrument of safety to me. It felt warm to my body though the waves
+poured continually over it.
+
+The outline of the forest on the lee side of the estuary was now
+distinguishable, and hope would have been rife within me but for the
+expectation of finding myself anchored fast at a fatal distance from
+the shore.
+
+Every thing appeared so indistinct in the gloom of the night, that I
+could not guess how far I was from land; and it was with surprise, as
+well as delight and gratitude, that I felt the boat bump against the
+sand. Oh that first bump, which told me of safety and deliverance
+after five hours of incessant peril! Shall I ever forget the thrill
+of delight which it gave me? I could scarcely credit my senses, and
+put down my benumbed feet with doubt; but they rested on the sand --
+real, hard, blessed terra firma! and without delay I waded through
+the water to the beach.
+
+The wind had now fallen, and it began to rain.
+
+I was on the edge of a thick wilderness of forest, without any house
+within reach -- the nearest was some miles distant, and to reach it
+in the dark, and without shoes, through swamps and thickets was
+almost impossible.
+
+The Canning River was about half-a-mile from me, and on the farther
+side of it was a settler's house; but though I might reach the bank
+of the river, I could not hope to make myself heard half a mile off,
+amid the howling of the dying storm, and by people fast asleep.
+There was nothing for it, therefore, but to make myself as
+comfortable as possible, and remain where I was until morning.
+Fortunately, I recollected having seen the ruins of a goat-shed not
+far distant, when I had landed on this spot with my gun two or three
+months before. With some difficulty, and some pain to my feet from
+thorns, I discovered this relic of a hovel. Part of the roof was yet
+entire, and sheltered me from the wind.
+
+The door was lying inside, and this I made my bed. Then, having
+wrung out my shirt and flannel-waistcoat, and returned thanks to the
+Almighty for preserving a life not, perhaps, sufficiently prized by
+the owner, I lay down completely exhausted and fell asleep.
+
+Awaking at daylight, I started off through the woods, stiff and
+hoarse with cold, but light of heart; and having reached the Canning,
+succeeded at last in making myself heard by the farmer opposite, who
+took me across in his boat, breakfasted me, and lent me his clothes,
+and finally conveyed me to Perth, where I found my friends preparing
+to go in search of my body.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 23.
+
+THE DESERT OF AUSTRALIA. -- CAUSE OF THE HOT WINDS. -- GEOLOGY.
+
+I intend in this chapter* to give an explanation of the cause of the
+hot-winds of Australia; to throw out a suggestion on the most likely
+mode of prosecuting discovery towards the interior; and to conclude
+with a slight sketch of the geology of the colony. Before doing this
+I shall give a brief account of a journey made by myself and Mr.
+Maxwell Lefroy in search of the inland sea so often talked of, and
+which a native promised to show to us; so large, he said, that when
+he stood on one shore he could not see the other. Although this sea
+turned out to be a pure fiction, the journey was not entirely
+useless, nor altogether uninteresting. As this sea was probably not
+more than 200 miles distant from York, according to the reckoning of
+the native, who said it was "ten sleeps off," I judged that one
+month's provision would be sufficient.
+
+
+[footnote] *This chapter I owe to Mr. Henry Landor.
+
+
+Accordingly, Mr. Lefroy and myself started on the expedition, on
+horseback, taking with us a native boy, and a pack-horse loaded with
+flour, tea, and sugar, and other necessaries. It will be sufficient
+to state that we pursued a south-east course, crossing the Hotham,
+the Williams, and the Arthur rivers, and traversing an indifferent
+country, but in many places fit for sheep-grazing, before we came to
+the lake, or sea, of which we were in search. When we arrived at it,
+we were disappointed to find it not more than six miles long,
+although the natives, with their usual amount of exaggeration, had
+increased it to an illimitable ocean. Before descending from the
+high land to the plain in which the lakes are situated, we caught a
+distant glimpse of what appeared to be a grand and broad river,
+pursuing a winding course through a magnificently wooded valley, with
+its clear bright waters dwindling in the distance to a silvery
+thread. A nearer examination, however, dispelled the illusion, and
+the beautiful river turned out to be nothing more than a chain of
+shallow lakes, situated in a woody valley; and only in very wet
+seasons flowing from one to another.
+
+We determined to follow the chain of lakes eastward, so long as our
+provisions should last, or as long as our horses could find food for
+themselves. We proceeded east for six days, passing numberless
+lakes, and observing that the chain divided, one branch of lakes
+running north-east, and the other due east. We followed the latter
+until we came to a lake called Dambeling, by far the largest we had
+seen, being about fifteen miles long by seven or eight wide, with a
+good sheep country on its northern bank, and a river, which we called
+the Lefroy, falling into its eastern end. The river was about thirty
+yards wide, with a clayey bed, and large fresh-water pools, and
+flowed from the east, through the worst country we had seen, it being
+an apparently endless desert, and level to the horizon. We went one
+day's journey into this inhospitable country, but the want of food
+for our horses, and our own unprepared state, prevented us from
+penetrating farther. On our return, we went for two or three days
+north, on the outskirts of the desert, before we turned westward on
+our way back to York.
+
+The only land we crossed in this expedition was situated on the head
+of the Hotham and Williams. The area of this country is undoubtedly
+very great, but its average character is below the York district,
+although it is well adapted for sheep-grazing.
+
+But the most interesting feature is the barren and desolate country
+to the east of Lake Dambeling, doubtless a continuation of the same
+sterile country seen by Mr. Roe, the surveyor-General, east of York
+many years previously; and probably from Mr. Eyre's observation,
+extending quite down to the southern coast. We had no means of
+ascertaining the width of this dreary country, but we did not think
+it could be impassably wide because the river Lefroy appeared to come
+across it. This river, in a geographical point of view, may be
+important, as the character of its bed, without trees, more
+water-worn than the other rivers of the colony, its size, and the
+direction from which it comes, render it exceedingly interesting to
+determine how it is supplied. The sandy nature of the country on its
+banks, and for many miles east, and the flatness of the country,
+preclude the idea that it receives its supply of water from the
+immediately surrounding district. It must either be supplied by a
+country of a far better character to the eastward, or it is the
+outlet of another and larger lake far in the interior. From the
+natives we could learn nothing but that there were no kangaroos, no
+opossums, and no water to the east; but as their knowledge never
+extends 100 miles, and they would tell any lie to avoid going where
+they had no inclination to go, their opinions are worthless. It
+might be worth the while of the colony to send forth another
+expedition to determine the boundaries of this desolate country, as
+it is not improbable that a practicable rout might be discovered to
+South Australia by means of the river and lakes.
+
+The outlet of the lakes is into the river Beaufort, and possibly also
+into the Gordon. There is no doubt that in exceedingly wet seasons
+the whole valley is one continuous stream, when all the lakes would
+be united and present a truly magnificent appearance; but as the area
+of evaporation is so large, and the banks of many of the lakes are
+high, the quantity of rain must be enormous before the valley becomes
+filled with a running river. Lake Barbering, where the valley
+divides, has a steep shore, with three distinct marks of former
+water-levels. All the lakes have two or more shores, showing either
+a decrease of rain or an elevation of the land itself, probably both.
+Between the present and ancient shores there is a belt of swamp-oaks
+and tea-trees, which show that some length of time has elapsed since
+the water left its old levels.
+
+The water to fill these large reservoirs must come down the river
+Lefroy, as the neighbouring country is too sandy to supply it in
+sufficient quantities.
+
+No question in geography has presented a wider field for conjecture
+than the much-debated one of the nature of the interior of Australia.
+Is it desert, or water, or pasture? inhabited, or destitute alike of
+animal and vegetable life? The explorations of Captain Sturt, and
+the journey of Mr. Eyre, would incline us to believe that the country
+is one vast sterile waste; but the journey of the latter is worth
+nothing as an attempt to expose the nature of the interior, since he
+never left the coast. It certainly shows how much suffering the
+human frame can endure; and whilst, as illustrative of Australian
+geography, it is valueless, it is highly creditable to the energies
+of the traveller.
+
+The expedition of Captain Sturt has shown that to the north of South
+Australia the country is chiefly desert, totally incapable of
+supporting animal life: while the geological specimens of that
+traveller prove that the rich mineral strata of South Australia
+extend far beyond the pastoral boundaries of the colony. A reference
+to the journey of Mr. Lefroy and myself, from York to the south-east,
+will show that there exists a low level country running far beyond
+our farthest eastern point, which may afford abundance of water and
+pasture for any future expedition proceeding in that direction.
+
+An expedition starting from these lakes in the BEGINNING OF WINTER,
+so as to take advantage of the first supplies of water, might advance
+far enough into the interior to discover at least the possibility of
+proceeding before the succeeding summer would render it impossible to
+return; for the lakes alone would not be sufficient to ensure a
+supply of good drinkable water during the summer, as they generally
+become quite salt long before summer is over. It would be necessary
+to find a good deep water-hole for the party to remain at during the
+dry season, and from which they could push out small lateral
+expeditions as a sort of foundation for the next season's main
+advance. Expeditions in Australia require great circumspection. It
+is not the most rapid traveller who will get the farthest, but the
+most prudent and cautious. I consider it quite possible to get
+across the island, either to South Australia or to Port Essington.
+Most probably it would be easier to get to the latter than the former.
+
+From observations made on the rains and winds in Western Australia,
+and careful inquiries on the same subjects when I was in South
+Australia, and on a comparison of the two, I am inclined to believe
+that the climates of the two colonies assimilate. A wet winter in
+one is a wet winter in the other. Both receive their rains when the
+wind blows from the north-west to south-west. Thus the rains from
+South Australia pass from the Indian Ocean over Western Australia,
+and the whole island, to South Australia. The hot wind of Western
+Australia blows from the north-east; and, in fact, the hot wind of
+both colonies comes from the same portion of the great island. That
+which is the hot wind in summer in Western Australia is the cold wind
+in winter; and the same in South Australia. The reason is obvious.
+It is evident, from the fact that South Australia receives its rain
+from the Indian Ocean, that there are no mountains in the interior of
+sufficient elevation to intercept the clouds; that there are no
+mountains in the interior, is shown also by the absence of rivers
+emptying themselves into the ocean. From the observation of Mr.
+Lefroy and myself, we were led to suppose that the interior consisted
+for the most part of immense clay plains; the lower portion of these
+plains being hollowed into the large shallow lakes we meet with in
+our journey. Where the country is a little more elevated the plains
+are sand instead of clay. In winter these plains are covered with
+water, as the drifted leaves on the bushes testify; and the marks of
+water on the surface are very evident. Now, when the winter winds
+pass over these immense masses of water, the great evaporation
+renders them intensely cold; and they arrive in the colony laden, (if
+I may so unphilosophically express it,) with cold, caused by rapid
+evaporation. In summer these very plains are equally the cause of
+the hot wind; for when the rains cease, and the sun acquires his
+summer power, the water is quickly evaporated, the clay becomes
+baked, and the heat is reflected from the hard heated surface quite
+sufficiently to raise a thermometer to 110 degrees in the shade. The
+wind is now driven towards the colony laden with heat from the
+cracked, baked, clay-plains in the interior; and thus it is, that at
+different seasons the same country produces such opposite effects.
+But although the general state of the interior is barren and
+unproductive, as I imagine, I do not suppose that it is entirely so.
+I believe there are many cases of good pasture land in the midst of
+this sterile country; fertile spots, small when compared with the
+vast area of indifferent country around them, but large in
+themselves. And these pastoral oases are more cultivated than the
+worthless land amid which they are placed. In these patches of good
+land there are always water-holes to be found, and water-courses well
+marked, conducting the surplus waters to the lakes in the clay
+plains. That there are such fertile spots in the Australian deserts
+is certain, for I have seen many of them myself, and they are
+mentioned also by the South Australian travellers. The similarity in
+most respects of vegetation in Western Australia and in South
+Australia, and the identity of many plants, proves also a country of
+good quality lying between the two colonies; by which such plants
+were conveyed from one country to the other. Thus, the so called
+white-gum is the same tree in both colonies; the mungat, or
+raspberry-jam tree, is common to both; and also to the plains of New
+England, in New South Wales, where (I understand) it acquires a
+larger size than in Western Australia. The manch is another tree
+also common to the two colonies; so is the black-wattle. The grasses
+are many of them alike. But this similarity is not confined only to
+the vegetable kingdom. The birds and animals are many of them also
+alike. The white and the black cockatoo are common to the three
+colonies, as are many kinds of the smaller parrots, the kangaroo, and
+the kangaroo-rat, the numbat, the opossum, the native cat, and many
+others. And this is not only true of animals of great locomotion, or
+birds of long flight, as the pigeon or cockatoo, but equally so of
+the opossum, the quail, and the wild-turkey. The quail and the
+turkey are birds chiefly found in grassy lands, and neither fly to
+any great distance: at least the quail never does; the turkey will
+when much disturbed, but not otherwise. Also the water animals, as
+the tortoise, are to be found in both colonies; but not the platypus,
+which is confined to the country east of the great river Murrumbidgee
+and its tributary the Darling.
+
+The natives are also alike in feature and habits, evidently the same
+race, with language similar in character, in both countries, with
+similar weapons and methods of procuring food; having also similar
+customs and laws.
+
+Now, I infer from these facts, that the population, animal as well as
+vegetable, proceeded from one country to the other; and that many
+forms of vegetation in the two colonies possess no greater
+difference, than the difference of soil and latitude may account for;
+and that it may therefore be possible for men to find a route from
+one country to the other, by carefully noting and following the lay
+of the water-courses, the direction of the oases, and the nature of
+the geology of the country; for that no impenetrable desert exists
+between the countries, is evident from the passage of vegetables and
+animals from the one to the other. What will be the benefit, some
+one may ask, when such a route is discovered? Why, independent of
+the knowledge gained to geography, there will be the great practical
+good of opening the boundless pastures of Western Australia to the
+flocks of the already overstocked lands of the other colonies. To
+Western Australia the gain would be great; and to South Australia it
+would be equally advantageous, as it would maintain the value of
+stock there, which will rapidly fall when no more land can be found
+fit for occupation. Even with all the rapid increase of population
+which the great mineral abundance of that colony will continue to
+create, sheep will multiply faster than the population, until they
+become of the same low value as in New South Wales, where, if there
+be no run sold with them, they are not worth more than the value of
+the wool on their backs.
+
+It is therefore most desirable that attempts should be made to find a
+stock route from the western to the eastern coasts.
+
+Intra-tropical Australia is more abundantly supplied with rivers, and
+of a larger magnitude, than any out of the tropics, the Murray alone
+excepted; and doubtless a journey across the island within the tropic
+would present fewer difficulties than one direct from Perth to
+Sydney, or Adelaide; but, excepting for the advancement of
+geographical knowledge, there is no object to be gained by such a
+journey. The best way is along the valley of the lakes, guided as
+the party proceeds, by the nature of the country.
+
+I earnestly hope that an expedition will be sent to make some effort
+to penetrate the great extent of an unknown country, lying east of
+Western Australia, as it is an object well worth the attention of the
+Government, or of the Geographical Society.
+
+The geology of Western Australia is not very interesting, as the
+country is entirely of primary formation to the east of the Darling
+range of hills: the granite every where crowning the summit of the
+hills, and the immense plains consisting entirely of granitic sand,
+or of hard clay containing nodules of primary rocks. This formation,
+which does not in Western Australia consist of the stratified
+primary series, as in South Australia, cannot be expected to yield
+the abundant mineral riches that the strata of South Australia
+exhibit. Probably gold may be met with, and copper and lead may be
+found in the Koikunenup Range, which is not entirely a granitic
+range, but is, I believe, capped with clay slate. The level country
+lying between the Darling hills and the sea is of a much more recent
+formation; but has not been sufficiently examined to determine its
+age precisely, though I imagine it will be found to belong to the
+pliocene tertiary formations. Certainly it contains many shells of
+species now living in the neighbouring ocean; and the limestone ridge
+running parallel with and close to the coast, and which in the colony
+is falsely called magnesian limestone, contains a great proportion of
+modern shells. The country lying between the hills and the sea
+contains many beds of lignite; one of which, at Nornalup, on the
+south coast, is more than two feet thick, and shows itself on the
+face of the cliff on the north shore of the estuary. Following the
+line of coast in any part of Australia, the geologist cannot fail to
+be much struck by the evident marks of a gradual elevation of the
+land; he will every where see the marks of the sea on the cliffs, at
+a considerable height above its present level. At Cape Chatham, on
+the south coast, these sea-marks are visible 300 feet above the
+present level of the ocean; and can be seen on the face of the rocks,
+in the hills at some distance from the coast. On my journey to
+Nornalup, I discovered a lake containing shells in abundance, which
+appeared to me, and were also considered by the late Dr. Hinds
+(Surgeon, Royal Navy) a skilful conchologist, to be a littoral
+species, common to the shores of various parts of the globe. These
+shells, of no interest in themselves, become excessively interesting
+as evidence of a connexion once existing between this lake and the
+ocean, from which it is now at least forty miles distant. This lake
+is not more than 100 feet above the present level of the ocean, and
+entirely separated from any other lake or river. How, therefore,
+could these marine shell-fish be living in a salt lake, unless they
+had continued to exist there from the period when it was a portion of
+the ocean itself? That many generations of them had lived and died
+in this spot, was quite certain, from the abundance of dead shells on
+the shores of this very interesting lake. Nor is the evidence of
+elevation confined to the coast; all the lakes seen by Mr. Lefroy and
+myself have ancient shores much higher than the present waters ever
+reach. The same evidence of elevation is to be seen in the harbour
+of Sydney, and in Spencer's Gulf, in South Australia. At the head of
+the latter the shingle and rolled-stones clearly show that the gulf
+has formerly run much farther inland: probably to Lake Torrens, the
+superfluous waters of which are now discharged into the head of the
+gulf. The whole plain of the Murrumbidgee has been, at not a very
+distant date, beneath the ocean; as the Madrepores, and other fossils
+in the limestone cliffs of the river testify. Earthquakes have been
+felt in South Australia since its settlement. A very intelligent
+gentleman there told me that he had noted eleven since his arrival;
+quite perceptible enough to leave no doubt as to their character.
+Probably the country was elevated at each shock, in a slight degree;
+and perhaps before the volcano of Mount Gambier became extinct the
+elevatory movements were more rapid. Be that as it may, I am quite
+convinced that they are going on at this moment; and it would be well
+to make marks on the cliffs in various parts of the coast, at the
+present sea-level, in order to determine, after the lapse of years,
+the rate of elevation.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 24.
+
+COLONIAL GOVERNMENT.
+
+We have already observed that a vast deal of discontent prevails in
+colonies. With all the natural advantages of a fruitful soil and a
+heavenly climate, colonists are always dissatisfied with their
+position; because, in a pecuniary point of view, they are always
+poor. And why are they so? The answer is a startling one. The
+excess of their abundance is the first cause of their poverty; the
+instability of their government, the second. They possess more than
+they can dispose of, and are borne down by the weight of their
+possessions. Place the markets of England and the labour of Ireland
+within their reach, and they would become millionaires were they to
+cease to be colonists; but so long as they continue to be colonists,
+governed by a Power altogether distinct from that which rules over
+Englishmen in their native land, they will continue to be helpless,
+oppressed, and poverty-stricken.
+
+They alone, among British subjects, are living under an absolute
+Monarchy; the caprices of which render property insecure and of
+uncertain value; neutralizing industry, paralyzing enterprise, and
+crushing with fatal authority the energies and the spirits of the
+people.
+
+In the absolute recklessness of colonial rule, no sooner does private
+enterprise raise its head, and throw out the first feelers on the way
+to wealth, than a watchful government steps forward, and careful only
+to secure gain to itself, crushes out (in the first feebleness of
+existence,) the germ of vitality.
+
+In all new countries in which the sources of wealth are imperfectly
+developed, the expense of applying the means necessary to their
+development is so enormous, as to leave but small profit to the
+speculator. Labour is always dear in new countries, where there is
+so large an outlet afforded to the labourer to escape from the toils
+of servitude, and become himself an occupant or an owner of the soil.
+All that he gains by the exchange is an ideal independence; which is,
+unhappily, but too attractive to the uneasy spirit of modern
+improvement.
+
+The prosperity of a colony is the aggregate of individual wealth.
+the prosperous advance of the colonist, is, therefore, the first duty
+of a superintending Government. But the first aim of that watchful
+guardian is ever to wring from the settler as much as may be
+extracted by pressure. The lowest demand for land, which would be
+dear at half-a-crown an acre, is eight times that amount. No sooner
+does the settler, by his science or industry, discover some lucrative
+opening, than government steps in with its restrictions, its taxes
+and duties, and at once cuts down the budding promise. If the design
+be to bring to light the mineral wealth of the country, royalties are
+immediately imposed; and no chance of profit is left to the
+speculator when the rents are raised according to the probabilities
+of success. It is the same with all other speculations; no one will
+embark, even in a timber-trade, when he knows that he is placing his
+capital at the mercy of a grasping and short-sighted Government.
+
+How much more lucrative, and how much more statesman-like would it
+prove, were our rulers to display as much good policy as the peasants
+of Norfolk, who do not pluck their geese until they be well
+feathered! Colonists, like cabbages, should be allowed to acquire
+the necessary strength, and attain the proper dimensions, before they
+be seriously operated upon. You might then cut and nick them with
+reasonable hope of their sprouting forth anew.
+
+But the worst evil of an absolute Government arises from the
+destruction in the minds of the people of all faith and confidence in
+its truth and honour.
+
+One Secretary of State countermands the edicts of his predecessor;
+and as the Executive Government of a colony is composed of the paid
+servants of the Crown, and is merely the machine of the Secretary for
+the time being, the ordinances which it promulgates are distinguished
+by only one uniform feature -- the announcement of broken promises
+and betrayed faith.
+
+The inhabitants of colonies, disappointed and deceived, have no trust
+in their rulers, and dare not invest their capital in enterprises
+which may be ruined in a moment by an arbitrary edict. At one
+period, for instance, they may have been induced, upon the faith of
+the Government, to purchase remission tickets, which entitle the
+owner to a certain quantity of land wherever he may choose to select
+it. A succeeding Government confines this right of selection within
+certain narrow limits; whilst another decides that the holder shall
+be allowed to purchase with these tickets only land that is entirely
+valueless. At one period men are encouraged to attempt the
+production of colonial spirits; but no sooner is a large amount of
+capital expended, than it is made illegal to distil. Some parties
+are permitted to purchase land at a distance from the capital: and
+after years of toil and expense are deprived of all protection from
+the Government, and allowed no compensation for its withdrawal.
+
+But it were vain to attempt to enumerate the acts of broken faith on
+the part of an absolute Government, from whose decree there is no
+appeal, and from whose oppression no redress. The moral evil to
+colonies is crushing and fatal.
+
+The best informed among English statesmen know nothing of colonies:
+but their hardihood in legislating for them is, unhappily, equal to
+their ignorance. It was only last year (1846) that the bill for the
+government of Western Australia was (according to newspaper report)
+opposed in the House of Lords by a noble duke, on the ground, as his
+grace alleged in an animated and interesting speech, of the
+wretchedly immoral state of the colony, arising from the system of
+transportation, which so deluged the country with convicts that it
+was now a perfect hell upon earth! A noble lord, then
+Under-secretary for the Colonies, apologised, with the best grace he
+could assume, for this lamentable state of things, and assured the
+noble duke that the Government was quite aware of the evil, and was
+turning its attention to a remedy for it. Had any one of the noble
+lords present known anything at all about the subject of the debate,
+he might in a few words have relieved the anxiety of the Government,
+by informing it that Western Australia is not, and never has been, a
+penal settlement -- that convicts are not sent thither for
+punishment; that even a single bush-ranger has never been known
+within the territory; and that, in the words of an Adelaide journal,
+"it is as free from stain as any of the rural districts of England."
+
+Another Australian colony (that of Port Phillip) calls for the
+attention of Government more imperatively, perhaps, than any other of
+these settlements. At present an appendage to Sydney, but situated
+at a most inconvenient distance from that capital, it is compelled to
+remit thither between fifty and one hundred thousand pounds annually
+for rates, taxes, and duties, not a tithe of which ever finds its way
+back again. It is deprived of roads, bridges, and all public works
+of importance, solely because it is friendless at home, voiceless and
+unrepresented. Might Englishmen be made to feel that interest in
+colonies which in general they are ever ready to accord to the
+unfortunate, they would glow with indignation at the wrongs, the
+injustice, and the oppression under which the inhabitants of distant
+settlements bend in silence. "If you don't keep your colonies in a
+state of dependence," are the memorable words of Lord Stanley, in
+May, 1846, "of what use are they?" Such has ever been the
+narrow-minded and unstatesman-like policy of the British Government.
+And yet even the infant colonies of the empire, though fettered,
+cramped, and swathed like the young progeny of the Esquimaux, are
+useful still to the Mother Country. They afford the best market for
+her produce; and when freed from the pressure of their bonds, like
+plants released from the torturing confinement of their earthenware
+prison, and allowed to extend their roots abroad in the free soil of
+Nature, they will display new strength and viridity, and bring forth
+fruit in increased abundance. Her Majesty's present Secretary of
+State for the Colonies (Earl Grey) entered upon his office with truly
+liberal and right-minded views, which, we trust, will be carried out
+into operation wherever found necessary and practicable. "There can
+be no doubt," said his Lordship in the House of Lords, shortly before
+taking office, "that in our colonial empire we have the advantage of
+possessing warm friends and allies in all quarters of the world, who,
+commanding great natural resources, are united in heart and soul to
+defend our trade and our interests, and to take part with us in all
+contests against our enemies. We have garrisons of the cheapest kind
+in every quarter of the universe. On the other hand, the colonies
+have this inestimable advantage -- they have the glory and security
+to be derived from an intimate connexion with the greatest, the most
+civilized, and the most powerful nation on the face of the earth.
+They have the glory -- and they feel it to be a glory -- of calling
+themselves British subjects, and feeling that in defence of their
+interests and best rights, the power and might of this country are
+ready at any moment to be called forth and exercised in their behalf.
+This is a substantial advantage of the most important kind to the
+colonies; and they are fully sensible of it. And if with this we
+pursue a liberal policy, and extend to them the dearest privilege of
+Englishmen -- THE PRIVILEGE OF SELF-GOVERNMENT, AND DO NOT
+VEXATIOUSLY INTERMEDDLE WITH THEIR INTERNAL AFFAIRS; in short, if we
+pursue a liberal policy towards them, both commercially and
+politically, we shall bind them to us with chains which no power on
+earth may break, and the connexion between the parent state and those
+great dependencies may continue until they far exceed us in
+population."
+
+These are generous sentiments and profound truths, and they have shed
+the bright beams of Hope over that vast colonial empire to which they
+refer.
+
+In legislating for colonies, let it not be forgotten that one of the
+chief drawbacks to their prosperity is the want of confidence in the
+stability and permanency of existing regulations. There can be no
+success, and there can be no safety, whilst those regulations and laws
+are liable to the influence of peculiar views or individual caprice.
+It is the people themselves, for whose government the laws are
+intended, who should be allowed to impose, to modify, or to expunge
+them.
+
+The predominating evil in colonies is THE WANT OF CONFIDENCE AND
+FAITH IN THE GOVERNMENT.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 25.
+
+ONE OF THE ERRORS OF GOVERNMENT -- ADVENTURE OF THE BRAMBLE.
+
+It has ever been considered one of the first principles of good
+government, that a frequent and ready communication and intercourse
+should be maintained between the ruling power and the possessions
+subject to its authority. The first act of Roman sway was ever to
+lay down good lines of road through the conquered country; and
+nothing has tended so much to maintain the authority of the United
+States over the Red Indians of America, as the formation of roads
+through the wilderness. The rulers of Great Britain entertain the
+opinion that when they have once seized upon a distant country, and
+thrown into it a handful of troops and a few of their importunate
+friends, with the title of government officers, they have done all
+that is required of them. They wait with resignation for any account
+that may be brought of the progress of the new colony, by some
+wandering merchant-vessel. Despatches, frequently dated twelve
+months previously, during which time they have been making the tour
+of all the oceans at present known upon the globe, are brought to
+Downing Street; and are then thrown aside, or at least are never
+attended to, probably because they are too old to be deemed
+interesting. No matter how pressing and immediate the wants of
+the colony, chance alone affords the opportunity of making their
+necessities known at home. Letters and despatches accumulate in the
+Post-office; no vessel arrives bringing intelligence from England, or
+offering to take away a mail: the Colonial Secretary, having
+exhausted every official resource in the way of mental occupation,
+looks out at the window, and meditates upon quail-shooting. His
+Excellency the Governor, questions the possibility of adding another
+despatch to the hundred and fifty already composed in illustration of
+the art of making despatches, as Soyer makes soup, out of nothing;
+and oppressed by the subject, becomes dormant in his chair of state;
+the clerks in the neighbouring offices no longer exhibit the uplifted
+countenance which, as justly observed by Sallust, distinguishes man
+from all other creatures; nothing is to be seen of them but masses of
+hair in wild profusion, and right hands extended on the table, still
+mechanically grasping steel-pens, whilst every face lies flattened
+upon a paper-case, and sleep and silence, broken only by sighs and
+snores, reign throughout the building. Universal stagnation prevails
+among government people; and merchants and store-keepers appear to be
+much in the same condition. The only person in office who is kept in
+a constant state of fever, is the unhappy Post-Master-General, who is
+hourly called upon to state when he is going to make up a mail for
+England. In vain he apologises for the non-arrival of ships; there
+is something radically wrong in his department, for which he is
+expected to answer; and dark denunciations are muttered in his ear,
+until worn out with anxiety and nervousness, he loses his appetite,
+and gradually withers away, like grass in the oven.
+
+And when at length a vessel arrives accidentally from Van Diemen's
+Land, or perhaps from America, the Master at first demurs about
+taking a mail, under the idea that it may convey letters giving
+information of the state of markets that he desires should be known
+only to himself and his employers; but finally consents; and then,
+having received the mail on board, carries it about with him from
+port to port, until at the conclusion of a long voyage, having
+occasion to empty his vessel in order to smoke out the rats, he
+discovers the forgotten boxes, and conscientiously sends them ashore.
+
+But if it be vexatious and inconvenient to have only this uncertain
+means of despatching our letters to England, how much more annoying
+is it to have no regular and stated time for receiving them from
+home! What could be more painful than to have to wait twelve months
+before you can receive an answer to an inquiry; and what more
+destructive to the interests of commerce? How many fluctuations are
+there in the state of the markets during those twelve months!
+
+It is one of the greatest of evils to have no regular post-office
+communication between the Mother Country and her colonies, and the
+interests of trade in both greatly suffer by it.
+
+Much has been said lately of establishing steam communication with
+Sydney. A committee of Sydney merchants has been appointed in London
+to consider the subject, and the restless and indefatigable Lieut.
+Waghorn has written a pamphlet showing how it may be done, provided
+the Government will contribute 100,000 pounds per annum towards the
+project. He proposes that a branch line of steamers shall be
+established, to proceed from Sincapore by the north of New Holland,
+touching at Port Essington, and through Torres Straits to Sydney, and
+probably on to Van Dieman's Land. But why follow such a route as
+this, through the most dangerous channel in the world, where even
+steamers would have to lie-to at night (as the Lieutenant admits),
+and where light-houses would have to be erected and kept up at an
+extravagant cost? Why take such a route, which presents not a single
+place to call at, except Port Essington, a miserable spot, intended
+only as a kind of refuge for shipwrecked mariners, possessing no
+commercial or agricultural inhabitants, and only enjoying the
+advantages and the society of a Governor, a handful of soldiers, and
+three white women? Why insist upon expending so much public money,
+and encountering so many dangers, without conferring a single
+additional benefit upon the Australian colonies, when the route by
+the south of New Holland is so obvious, so practicable, and so
+superior? The projectors talk of making Port Essington a depot for
+coal; but why not make this depot in Western Australia? During the
+summer months, from 1st October to 1st April, the steamers might
+touch at Fremantle; and during the winter months, at Port Gladstone,
+fifteen miles to the southward, affording a sheltered harbour where
+ships may ride securely within one hundred yards of the shore. Coal
+mines will probably soon be at work in the colony, vast beds of that
+mineral having been discovered, thus offering every inducement to
+steam-vessels to touch here. Nor could anything be more
+advantageous, considering the great interests that England now has at
+stake in these seas, than to form a general depot in this colony,
+where her Majesty's steamers and ships-of-war might refit on
+occasion. As there is no other spot in all New Holland, Van Dieman's
+Land, or New Zealand, where first-rate ship-timber may be obtained,
+and where IRON, COAL, and COPPER, are also procurable in abundance,
+this colony offers advantages for the formation of a Government
+Dock-yard and depot (at Port Gladstone), that must be acknowledged by
+every unprejudiced person.
+
+Objections may be raised to doubling Cape Lewin during the winter
+season; but let the steamers stand well out to sea, and there would
+be no difficulty. The time lost would not exceed that spent in
+lying-to in Torres Straits during the night. Our colonial schooner,
+the Champion, goes round Cape Lewin at all seasons.
+
+We would propose that the mail steamers, instead of branching off
+from Sincapore, as proposed by Lieut. Waghorn, should depart from
+Point de Galle, Ceylon, make direct for Swan River, there take in
+coal, and pass on to Adelaide, South Australia, and thence to Van
+Dieman's Land, where they might put the Melbourne and Sydney mails on
+board of the steamer already plying between Van Dieman's Land and
+those places. By this route the Sydney people would receive their
+letters quite as soon as though their interests alone had been
+consulted, according to the desire of the disinterested committee
+before alluded to; whilst Van Dieman's Land would gain a few days,
+and South Australia and Western Australia would be allowed to share
+in the general advantage, from which they would otherwise be entirely
+excluded.
+
+But the Government and the public would also be gainers by the route
+which we suggest. It would be much cheaper to them, because it would
+be much more profitable to the company that carried it out. The
+colony of South Australia is now a populous country, and becomes more
+so every year; but the Steam Company would carry no passengers and no
+goods for South Australia (perhaps not even for Van Dieman's Land),
+if the route to Sydney were to be by Port Essington and Torres
+Straits. The two colonies of South and Western Australia deriving no
+benefit from such a course, could give no support to the company.
+Government hitherto has resisted the efforts of the Sydney merchants,
+and refused to sanction the proposal of Mr. Waghorn, but chiefly upon
+the ground of expense. And there is no doubt that Ministers would be
+guilty of a gross misdemeanour, were they to consent to apply 100,000
+pounds per annum of the public money in furtherance of a scheme
+designed for the exclusive benefit of a single colony. It is the
+duty of Government to see that any sum which may be granted shall be
+so applied as to confer the most extensive benefit upon all the
+Australian colonies. That measures ought to be immediately taken to
+ensure a regular communication between the home country and every one
+of her colonies is a matter of no doubt to us. The want of this has
+long appeared to be one of the grand errors of colonial legislation.
+Let us hope that the day is not far distant when this crying evil
+shall be remedied. Now that steam navigation has come so generally
+into use, there is no valid reason why it should not be made the
+means of uniting together, as it were, the different outposts of the
+empire, drawing them more closely towards their parent country as to
+a common centre. It is full time that a greater appearance of
+sympathy were exhibited at home for those distant settlements which
+have now become the principal markets for British produce, and which,
+therefore, deserve something more at the hand of Government than what
+they have so long been accustomed to find -- alternate periods of
+tyranny and neglect.
+
+By far the greater portion of English merchant-ships are engaged in
+trading to the colonies; our manufactures there find their principal
+mart; our surplus population is there cheaply provided with
+maintenance and a home. These are the grounds on which the colonies
+lay claim to the fostering care of the Mother Country, and we trust
+the days are at hand that will see it afforded.
+
+The first step must be to ensure a regular and frequent intercourse
+between the countries, without which there can be no real protection;
+without which there is no sufficient encouragement given to trade;
+and the parent state can therefore reap but little advantage,
+comparatively, from a colony whose powers are only imperfectly
+developed.
+
+Since the above remarks were written, accounts have reached England
+of the arrival at Fremantle of her Majesty's surveying vessel
+Bramble, Commander Lieutenant Yule, after passing some time in
+Torres Straits and on the coast of New Guinea.
+
+Mr. Yule having kindly placed the notes of his voyage at the disposal
+of a friend in the colony, they were partially published in one of
+the local journals in the month of January last. The portion
+relating to Torres Straits is instructive. The Bramble sailed from
+Port Jackson about the end of December 1845, in company with the
+Castlereagh tender, Lieut. Aird, Commander. Touching at Moreton
+Bay, Mr. Yule visited his old acquaintance, Captain Wickham, R.N.,
+late in command of H.M.S. Beagle, and now a settler on the
+Brisbane. In the words of the journal referred to, "the Bramble
+proceeded slowly to the northward, being much delayed by the bad
+sailing of the tender." The voyage presents nothing worthy of
+notice, until the arrival of the ships in Torres Straits, when it is
+impossible to help being struck with the commentary which Mr. Yule
+unconsciously affords upon the "perfect safety" of that passage, now
+so much vaunted by the advocates of the northern route. While the
+Bramble and Castlereagh were lying off Sir Charles Hardy's
+Islands, the latter being deficient in ballast, Mr. Aird was
+despatched with the boats to look for the "wreck" of the Maid of
+Athens and the "wreck" of the Martha Ridgway, with the view of
+procuring some; and having failed in discovering the former, and
+therefore in procuring a sufficient supply, he was again sent to the
+"wreck" of the Sir Archibald Campbell for the same purpose. So
+much for Torres Straits!
+
+Mr. Yule strongly recommends Cairncross Island as the best station
+for obtaining wood and water for vessels navigating the straits,
+there being abundance of both easily procurable, and even large
+timber, if required. On this island they shot four megapodii, and
+observed many of their nests, some of which Mr. Yule describes as
+being twelve feet high, and upwards of fifty feet in circumference.
+
+On Friday, the 10th April they made the coast of New Guinea, which
+presented a low and thickly-wooded coast-line, backed by mountains of
+magnificent height and beauty; the country being apparently very
+rich, with many villages, embowered in cocoa-nut trees, scattered
+along the shore. While coasting along, in search of a convenient
+place to land, they encountered a native vessel of most extraordinary
+size and character, which we will allow Mr. Yule to describe in his
+own words: --
+
+"At daybreak, as the sun was rising, I was very much struck with the
+grandeur of some very distant mountains in a south-eastern direction
+-- one in particular, the outline of whose summit was only visible
+above the intervening clouds; immense ranges of mountains were also
+distinctly visible this side of it, extending in a N.W. and S.E.
+direction. It is seldom the rising sun has disclosed to my sight so
+splendid a view as then presented itself; but in a few minutes, when
+the sun's disk appeared, the beautiful scene vanished, leaving only
+inferior cloud-topped mountains visible, together with the rich and
+undulating foreground.  We shortly afterwards saw the strange sail
+seen last night. Although she was much nearer, she proved more
+unaccountable than before. As there was not sufficient wind to
+enable us to weigh, I resolved to send Mr. Pollard in the second gig
+to take a nearer view of this extraordinary vessel. I watched the
+boat until Mr. Pollard must have gone nearly five miles from us, when
+the boat's sails appeared a mere speck when close to the wonderful
+stranger. On this officer's return, he informed me he had approached
+within bow-shot of the vessel, which proved to be a gigantic double
+canoe, which he conceives must have measured fifty or sixty feet
+long, kept apart and together by a platform from fifteen to twenty
+feet broad, which extended nearly the whole length of the canoes, the
+after-end being square with the sterns of the boats; six or eight
+feet of this was left clear for the three steersmen, who guided the
+vessel with three long paddles over the stern. With the exception of
+this part of the platform, the whole was covered by a strong,
+well-built house, made of cane, the roof being flat, and about five
+or six feet above the platform. This roof answered the purpose of an
+upper deck, affording the crew the means of conveniently walking on
+it. This extraordinary craft was propelled by two large mat sails,
+each spread between two bamboo masts, the heels of which were fixed
+in the same step, the mastheads being spread (athwartships) from
+twenty to thirty feet asunder, the sail being triangular between
+these bamboo masts, which were supported by diagonal shores fore and
+aft on either side; besides these two large sails, the canoe had
+numerous smaller (square) ones suspended from the principal masts;
+there was also a small square sail forward. The whole of the spars
+and rigging was ornamented with a sort of flags and streamers. Mr.
+Pollard thinks that he saw about forty or fifty people on the roof,
+several of whom were in the act of stringing their bows; except this
+precaution on the part of the strangers, there was no demonstration
+of hostility. After taking a good view of this most extraordinary
+canoe, Mr. Pollard returned; and she ultimately was wafted out of
+sight. Whence she came, or where bound, still remains to me a
+problem.
+
+"At noon I obtained the latitude, which was 8 degrees 3 minutes S.;
+longitude, by chronometer, 145 degrees 28 minutes E.
+
+"In the afternoon the Castlereagh was visited by two small canoes,
+with eight men, who had come off from a village we discovered abreast
+of us. The natives brought off a few cocoa-nuts and some bows and
+arrows, which they readily bartered for such trifles as were given in
+exchange."
+
+The lofty mountain which so much excited Mr. Yule's admiration, was
+named by him Mount Victoria, and between it and the shore were
+several ranges of inferior altitude, which gave him "every reason to
+believe that the lower regions were well watered and fertile."
+
+Having fixed upon a favourable spot for commencing his triangulation
+behind a promontory which served to conceal them from the view of a
+native village which they saw at no great distance, Mr. Yule went
+ashore in the first gig with five seamen and one marine, accompanied
+by Mr. Sweetman, in the second gig, with three seamen and two
+marines, all well armed, and proceeded to hoist the Union Jack and
+take possession of the place in the name of her Majesty Queen
+Victoria. Having successfully performed this duty, and obtained the
+observations he required, Mr. Yule thought it high time to return on
+board; but the surf had in the meantime increased so heavily, that in
+the attempt the second gig was swamped, and every thing in her,
+including the arms, lost, except the quintant and chronometer, the
+boat herself being with difficulty saved by being towed outside the
+surf by the other gig. The rest of the adventure we shall give in
+Mr. Yule's own words: --
+
+"At this time I observed the Castlereagh about two miles beyond
+Cape Possession, under sail; I therefore made signs to Mr. Wright, in
+the first gig, to tow the second gig towards the Castlereagh, which
+I concluded would attract Mr. Aird's attention. In this I was not
+mistaken, as the Castlereagh was immediately anchored about a mile
+and a half off, and her boats sent to the relief of ours. In the
+interim I determined that every thing which was washed on shore
+should be collected together, after which we all huddled close under
+a bush near the beech, whence we could see our boats and be hid from
+the view of the natives as much as possible. The Castlereagh's
+boats having at length closed with the Bramble's, the second gig was
+soon baled out, when all four boats pulled up abreast of us outside
+of the surf, which had continued to increase; the Castlereagh at
+the same time weighed, which I confess alarmed me much, as I knew
+very few persons could be left on board after she had dispatched two
+boats' crews; I therefore concluded we were discovered by the natives
+beyond Cape Possession. I was in a few moments confirmed in my fears
+by seeing Mr. Andrews prepare to push his boat through the surf. I
+waved him back, when he energetically pointed towards Cape
+Possession. I fully understood his signs (that natives were coming),
+but still waved him off, as I knew his gallant attempt to relieve us
+would fail, and that he and his boat's crew would be added to those
+already in distress on shore; he, however, pushed through the surf,
+when, as I expected, this boat was upset, and all his arms,
+ammunition, etc. lost. At the same moment we observed crowds of
+natives coming round the point of Cape Possession, armed with spears,
+clubs, and stone axes. Our arms and ammunition had been all lost or
+destroyed; our situation was therefore most defenceless, and, I may
+say, our retreat hopeless; those boats at the back being unable to
+afford us the least relief. I then thought it best to show no signs
+of fear or mistrust, but to make friends with the natives, and amuse
+them, until the next tide should enable a boat to back through the
+surf. In the interim, Mr. Andrews, with his four men, and assisted
+by some others, made three attempts to launch his boat, which failed,
+and she was ultimately dashed in pieces against the rocks. I
+advanced alone with playful gestures, waving a branch of green
+leaves, in token of peace. One man pointed a spear at me, but the
+others stared at me with more wonder depicted on their countenances
+than ferocity. I then offered them some bits of tobacco, which they
+would not approach near enough to take from my hands. This shyness,
+unfortunately, did not continue long; for when the main body came up,
+amounting to eighty or ninety men, armed, they became troublesome,
+and laid their hands on everything they could get hold of that was
+lying on the beach. To these robberies I attempted to put a stop,
+and made them some presents instead; but the savages must have known
+our helpless condition, and became every moment more daring and
+rapacious; and, to add to our tribulation, we observed two large
+canoes, each containing thirty or forty men, come round Possession
+Point, and heave to between the Castlereagh and the boats, as if
+with the intention of cutting off the latter. The Castlereagh
+could not unfortunately take advantage of her guns by firing grape or
+canister, as we were completely intermixed with the natives. At this
+critical stage of our anxiety, the second gig, at all hazards, was
+veered through the surf, and, to our great joy, four or five men were
+drawn off in safety. A second attempt was made, and succeeded. Then
+came the awful moment for us who waited for the last trip; for only a
+few moments before, I baulked a native when taking a deliberate aim
+at one of our last men who embarked. The natives now, seeing our
+numbers decrease, laid hands on us in the most violent manner. My
+quintant was first wrested from my coxswain, who in a tone of grief
+made me known the circumstance. I immediately turned round and
+exclaimed 'Oh! don't part with that'; but it was too late; and when I
+endeavoured to recover it, I found a club wielded over my head. In
+making my escape from this wretch I was secured by four others, who
+first took the government micronometer, which was slung round my
+neck. I then endeavoured to struggle out of their clutches, and
+escape with the pocket chronometer and note-book, but these, AS WELL
+AS EVERY ARTICLE OF CLOTHING I HAD ABOUT MY BODY, were stripped off;
+when the second gig was opportunely again backed in, and in this
+forlorn state Mr. Pollard, the two marines, and I, waded off, and
+were dragged into the boat. We then went on board the Castlereagh,
+which was at anchor about a mile from the shore; the canoes slowly
+made off to the north-westward, after we had embarked. The boats
+having been hoisted up and secured, we got the anchor up and
+proceeded out to the Bramble, and anchored close to her at 6h. 30m.
+p.m. I immediately afterwards returned to the Bramble, truly
+thankful for our having escaped with our lives. The loss of
+instruments grieved me exceedingly, particularly as the nature of the
+coast rendered it next to impossible to effect a safe landing to
+attempt their recovery. From the account I heard of the ferocity of
+the natives where the Fly had been surveying last year on this
+coast, I confess I fully expected death would be my fate in a few
+minutes, and thought of the similar position poor Captain Skying was
+in when murdered at Cape Roso. If we had been possessed of six or
+eight muskets and plenty of ammunition, I think the natives might
+easily have been checked, but being defenceless, my only hope was to
+dissemble my fears and amuse them, to give us time until we could
+effect our escape. These people varied in complexion from black to a
+light copper colour; they appeared well made and active; all of them
+were ornamented, but some much more so than others; their ear-rings
+were made of rings of tortoiseshell, a number of them being fastened
+together, and suspended to the lower parts of the ears, in which are
+holes stretched so large as to admit a man's thumb being passed
+through them; the cartilage dividing the nostrils is perforated in
+like manner."
+
+This adventure of our old friends of the Bramble appears to me
+sufficiently interesting to excuse my having wandered through Torres
+Straits in order to record it.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 26.
+
+SCIENTIFIC DISCOVERIES. -- KANGAROO HUNTING. -- EMUS. -- LOST IN THE
+BUSH.
+
+There can be no doubt as to the truth of the axiom that "facts are
+stubborn things." Right or wrong, they seem to persist in a
+resolution to force conviction upon a man however reluctant he may
+be.
+
+Sturdy facts are never wanting in support of erroneous views; and
+more false conclusions are drawn from them than from the subtlest
+arguments of the sophist.
+
+When your theory is once confirmed by a fact, the question is
+considered decided, and no further argument is admissible. I had two
+theories not long ago, the pursuit and investigation of which gave me
+a good deal of pleasure; they were built upon facts, and therefore
+they were indisputable.
+
+My first theory was upon the amount of evaporation at Perth during
+the summer months.
+
+The excessive dryness of the atmosphere proved that the evaporation
+at the end of the rainy, or winter season, must be very great indeed.
+My friend, Mr. H., had an hygrometer, which he kept in a small room
+adjoining that in which he usually sat; and this hygrometer afforded
+the ground-work for our theories. It proved most satisfactorily that
+the evaporation exceeded every thing of the kind known in any other
+part of the globe. It was clear that our atmosphere was drier than
+that of a brick-kiln when burning its best. But the great beauty and
+novelty of the theory was, that the evaporation was greater at night
+than in the day time.
+
+This certainly puzzled us a good deal at first; but when once you are
+sure of your facts, it is astonishing how soon you come to mould your
+theory so as to make it perfectly agree with them, and manage to
+reconcile yourself to the most startling contradictions. After
+satisfying himself of the truth of the fact -- that the evaporation
+was really greater by night than by day -- Mr. H. proceeded to prove
+philosophically that nothing could be more reasonable than such a
+circumstance. From all that I could make out of his arguments, which
+were extremely logical and ingenious, it seemed clear that as every
+thing in this country is diametrically opposite to every thing in the
+old country, it was perfectly consistent with the regulations of
+nature in Australia, that evaporation should be greater at night than
+during the day time. Moreover, he placed great reliance upon the
+attraction of the moon.
+
+For my part, seeing that facts were on his side, I embraced his views
+with ardour; and went about as an apostle, proclaiming the new
+tidings far and wide. It was one of those astonishing truths in
+science that come suddenly and unexpectedly upon mankind -- like
+those connected with electricity -- that take the reason captive, and
+are beyond the reach of human investigation. Men usually appeared
+incredulous when the theory was first broached to them; but when
+convinced of the fact, as proved indisputably by the hygrometer, they
+were compelled to acknowledge the truth, and forthwith looked upon it
+as a matter of course.
+
+As the weather grew warmer -- when the thermometer stood daily at
+about 86 degrees in a cool room -- the nocturnal evaporation
+increased. At length it grew to such a pitch, that the tube of the
+hygrometer containing the water was exhausted in a couple of nights.
+Notwithstanding the astonishment of Mr. H., he was enraptured at the
+triumphant confirmation of his theory. He devoted every moment he
+could spare from public duties, to the compilation of a learned and
+voluminous treatise upon the subject. He looked upon himself as
+destined to be considered one of the master-philosophers of the age,
+the promulgator of a new and wondrous theory, based not only upon
+sound argument, but upon long observation and indisputable facts.
+When any one ventured to raise a doubt, he would smile with that
+ineffable sweetness which distinguishes a man conscious of his
+superior knowledge and sources of information. I, his enthusiastic
+adherent, picked up the crumbs of instruction that fell from his
+table; and dealt forth mysterious hints of the scientific errors
+about to be corrected by the observations and treatises of Mr. H.,
+who was now generally known to have forwarded an account of his
+discoveries to some of the learned Societies of London; and the
+English papers were perused with avidity, in the hope of finding
+that due honour had been paid to his merits.
+
+As he walked along the streets he was looked upon with additional
+reverence. He had raised the renown of Western Australia, and was
+now considered to be at once its decus et tutamen. The idlers who
+congregated in small knots about luncheon-time at the corners of the
+streets, began to talk of a statue in the market-place.
+
+Suddenly, however, the philosopher secluded himself from the vulgar
+gaze. The public wondered, and then became alarmed. The philosopher
+had taken to his bed. After some days I was admitted to his
+presence, and found him greatly enfeebled for want of rest. It was
+evident there was something that weighed upon his mind. After many
+ineffectual efforts, many sighs and some blushes, he faltered forth a
+confession that he feared our theory, (he seemed now, for the first
+time, kindly solicitous to share the merit of the discovery,) of
+evaporation being greater at night than in the day-time, was not well
+founded. An electric shock, shivering the funny-bones of both
+elbows, could not have startled me more. What did he mean? He
+continued, that one night whilst engaged upon a new hygrometrical
+treatise, he had sat up till a very late hour; the door of the room
+which contained the instrument was open, and the light from his lamp
+fell directly upon it. Absorbed in profound speculations, his eye
+occasionally rested upon the little instrument which stood upon a
+table. There it was -- the pillar of his fame. It seemed to dilate
+in dimensions until it rivalled the column in the Place Vendome, and
+on the top of it was a figure, less sturdy than that of Napoleon.
+Suddenly his vision was broken, and his thoughts were recalled from
+the future to the present, by seeing a living object move along the
+table, and quietly approach the foot of his column. Appalled and
+paralyzed, he sat immovable whilst he beheld an actual mouse,
+unrestrained by any scientific considerations, place its profane
+snout in the bowl of the hygrometer, and drink deliberately until its
+thirst was satisfied. It then retired, and other mice soon came
+trotting along the table and did the same.
+
+Mr. H. is a man of great self-control. He did not tear his remaining
+locks, or commit any other rash act, but with all the calmness of
+despair he set fire to the unfinished treatise, and saw it consumed;
+then he retired to bed, a desolate individual, and rose not again for
+several days.
+
+My next theory was entirely my own. I claimed all the merit of it,
+and felt the utmost pangs of jealousy when any one ventured to assert
+that HE had long ago suspected it. Built upon a solid foundation of
+facts, I maintained an opinion entirely at variance with that of
+Professor Owen and certain Parisian professors, and satisfied myself,
+at least, that the young of the kangaroo, and of other marsupial
+animals, is produced, not in the usual way, but from the teat of the
+dam. And although this theory is, and must be erroneous, I can even
+yet scarcely bring myself to believe it so -- with such fidelity do
+we cling to error. There are many men in the colony who have been
+for years in the constant, almost daily, habit of killing kangaroos,
+and they have consequently had opportunities of observing the young
+ones in every stage of development. Females have been killed with
+young ones hanging to the nipple, about half an inch long -- the form
+not fully developed, a mere foetus, presenting no appearance of
+active vitality. The nipple to which it is attached is not merely
+placed in the mouth of the foetus, but extends into its stomach,
+where it serves the purposes of the umbilical cord in other animals,
+whilst the lips grow round it, so that it cannot be removed without
+rupturing the skin. A little older, and it becomes evidently
+possessed of vitality -- a quickened foetus. The pouch of the doe is
+closed up until the birth of the young one; and gradually enlarges to
+accommodate the inhabitant.
+
+There are other marsupial animals, of the size of rabbits, that are
+found with eight or ten young ones, or rather small foetuses,
+similarly attached to the nipples of the parent.
+
+Now I could not conceive how creatures with long sharp claws, though
+provided with flexible wrists or joints, should be able to take up
+the newly produced little lump of inanimate flesh, and thrust a long,
+soft, yielding nipple down into the depths of the stomach. I
+collected a number of FACTS to prove the contrary -- but the question
+is now considered to be set at rest by the observations of French
+naturalists, and therefore I have quietly strangled my theory, but am
+still occasionally haunted by its ghost.
+
+I may mention here that male kangaroos are sometimes found provided
+with pouches; but these, I conceive, are lusus Naturae.
+
+This allusion to kangaroos (being good for nothing else) may serve as
+an introduction to a hunting excursion. A party of us started from
+Perth, equipped in the manner already described in the chapter upon
+Wild Cattle.
+
+We rode to the Canning to breakfast, at the house of the ----s,
+where we found the table ready spread with coffee, grilled fowls,
+eggs, ham, etc. The room was a good one, having French windows,
+looking out upon park-like scenery, among which the Canning River
+pursued its lazy course. There was also a piano belonging to the
+sister of our hosts, then absent on a visit. One of her brothers
+informed us that he had availed himself of her absence to abstract
+sundry of the wires from the piano in order to make bell-wires, which
+he thought was turning the piano to good account.
+
+After breakfast we loaded our bullock-cart with our goods, and left
+it in charge of a servant whom we appointed to meet us at a certain
+spot where we were to bivouac for the night. The only disagreeable
+part of travelling in Australia is the scarcity of water, except at
+the end of winter, when all the gullies are filled. Unless,
+therefore, the ground be well known, it is always advisable to take a
+native, who can inform you where the pools or springs are situated.
+Four of us set out, well mounted, and attended by a native on foot,
+and five kangaroo dogs. These dogs are descended from a cross
+between a bloodhound and a greyhound, and combine strength,
+fleetness, scent, and sight. As it was the middle of winter (late in
+June) the air was cool and pleasant, and the sun bright and joyous,
+as he always is here. We were all in high spirits, anticipating
+excellent sport, as the country to which we were going abounds with
+game of great variety -- kangaroos, emus, quail, and turkeys, or
+bustards. A rough coarse scrub, interspersed with small quantities
+of grass, overspread the sandy soil. The only animal we saw for some
+time was an opossum, which the native discovered in a tree and
+climbed up for. I examined its pouch, but there was no young one
+within it. At length we caught a glimpse of a kangaroo hopping along
+at a distance, and we galloped off in full chase, but he was too far
+ahead for the dogs to make anything of it; so we lost him.
+Disconcerted and vexed we drew together again after a short run, but
+had scarcely done so before we emerged upon an open prairie, where on
+our right we beheld three kangaroos hopping away at a gentle pace.
+the kangaroo uses only his hind legs in running. The leg presses the
+ground from the hock to the toes, and its strong sinews enable the
+animal to bound forward with immense leaps; the heavy tail vibrating
+behind keeps him steady. Four of the dogs rushed after the game,
+followed by all the horsemen, at full gallop, hallooing and shouting
+vociferously. A more animated sight could scarcely be conceived;
+three graceful kangaroos bounding away in a line, with four large
+greyhounds laying well after them, and the hunters chiveying along,
+and dashing through brushwood and thickets like whirlwinds. The
+kangaroos, however, fairly beat us; they gained a thick wood, dashed
+through it and into a swamp beyond, and there we lost sight of them.
+We all returned to the side of the wood, and waited for the dogs, who
+came back with hanging heads and drooping tail, completely blown.
+All returned but one -- the oldest and most sagacious of them. He
+had not gone with the four which followed the heels of the kangaroos,
+but had made a short cut to the left, so that he was in the wood
+almost as soon as the kangaroos, whilst the other dogs were still a
+long way behind. We waited patiently for old Tip (of whom honourable
+mention has been made before); his master, Tom H., asserting
+confidently that he had killed. At length as we were standing
+talking together, we suddenly perceived Tip among us. His master
+examined his mouth, and declared he had killed; then saying, "Show,
+Tip, show!" the dog turned round, and trotted off before us; and
+going into the swamp took us to the spot where the kangaroo lay dead.
+
+It is not all kangaroo dogs that can be taught to show game, and
+those that do so are therefore highly prized. It is a very pleasing
+sight to observe how proud a dog is of this accomplishment. He will
+come quietly back to his master, and oftentimes lay himself down as
+if he were afraid the other dogs should suspect he had got something
+to tell, and would run off in search of it. And when his master
+gives the signal, he deliberately proceeds to lead the way, snarling
+at the other dogs whenever they run before him, and seem likely to
+arrive first at the spot. Sometimes he tries to deceive them by
+going in a wrong direction, and when the others have started off,
+full of eagerness, as if they themselves (the senseless fools!) were
+inviting people to follow, and were anxious to show them the game,
+the old dog will rapidly turn aside, evidently laughing in his
+sleeve, and dash forward to the spot where he left the carcase.
+There you will find him standing over it; and as you ride up he will
+give a faint wag of his tail, as though he were glad that you are
+pleased with him, and yet he cannot help feeling that he is not
+properly rewarded. His gaunt ribs and melancholy eye speak of his
+hungry stomach; he seems to remember that he receives from his rough
+master more kicks than caresses, but still he does his duty, and will
+do so to the last; and denies himself even a mouthful of the prey,
+which but for him, would lie undiscovered in the thicket. I used to
+know an old show-dog who displayed so much thought and sagacity, that
+I never was in his company without feeling for him a certain degree
+of respect. Whenever struck by brutes of lower order than himself,
+he did not howl or display his teeth, but slunk aside with a look of
+deep sorrow and reproach.
+
+In the evening we bivouacked near a small pool of water, where the
+cart joined us, according to previous arrangement. The horses were
+tethered out and fed; a good fire was kindled, and with kangaroo
+steaks, cold fowls and ham, and brandy and water, we managed to make
+a tolerable supper. A fence against the wind was constructed of
+upright sticks, and leaves of the black-boy (Xanthorea, or
+grass-tree) resembling rushes, only brittle; and with a good fire at
+our feet we were exceedingly warm and comfortable. The wild dogs
+uttered their doleful, wailing cries around our camp during the
+night, and caused our own frequently to sally forth and give them
+chase.
+
+We had kangaroo curry for breakfast next morning; and having fed our
+horses, and sounded to saddle, set out again in pursuit of game.
+
+Proceeding across some plains, interspersed with swamps and thickets,
+we soon perceived a herd of about a dozen kangaroos feeding and
+hopping about. Keeping a covert in line before us, we tried to get
+near them, but they soon made off, bounding away like a herd of deer,
+which they much resemble at a distance. The dogs started after them
+at full speed; and with loud halloos and bounding hearts the horsemen
+spurred their steeds, and scoured along the plain. There are,
+unfortunately, no fences in this country, but there are a thousand
+worse obstructions -- fallen trees, thick clumps of black-boys
+extending right across the plain, and therefore not to be avoided;
+woods through which the game dashes at speed, and where you must
+follow at the risk of striking head or limbs against the trunks or
+branches of trees, or else you will be thrown out. Then of course
+you don't like to be last, and you don't like to allow the gallant
+captain, who is spurring at your side, the opportunity of bragging at
+mess that he alone kept near the dogs, which you know he would be
+delighted to do. So, determined to ride against the captain at any
+rate, you keep your horse and yourself well together, and flinch at
+nothing; dashing through thickets, tearing over rough ground,
+steering between trees, ducking your head under boughs, and twitching
+up first one leg and then the other to save them from being smashed
+against black-boys or banksias. You clear the wood, and emerge again
+upon a plain; the kangaroos are bounding along, some three hundred
+yards in advance, the dogs lying well up to them; and now the latter
+have fixed upon one of the herd, whom they pursue with resolute
+fierceness. The others escape into friendly thickets, but the doomed
+one, an old buck, some six feet in height when resting on his
+haunches, still holds out, though his enemies are fast gaining upon
+him.
+
+At length, finding escape impossible, he makes for a broad mahogany
+tree, where he suddenly comes to bay. The dogs hesitate to rush in
+upon him, his eye gleams with such deadly ferocity, whilst he sits
+erect upon his haunches, ready to dart the long claw of his hind leg
+into the first assailant who comes within reach.
+
+A kangaroo in this position is no despicable enemy. He has great
+power in his limbs; and if he happens to strike a dog with his claw,
+he inflicts a grievous wound, and sometimes tears out his entrails,
+and kills him on the spot. He rushes at men with the same fury, and
+tries to clasp them with his fore-paws whilst he strikes at them with
+his hind-legs. I rode up to the animal in question, dismounted, and
+struck him a rap on the head with a broken bough, as he rushed
+towards me with a fierce hissing noise. As he staggered at the blow,
+the dogs darted upon him and quickly despatched him.
+
+We had several other good runs before luncheon, and then baited our
+horses, and allowed them to rest for two or three hours. Whilst
+riding towards our bivouac in the afternoon, a native who was walking
+at my side, and who had accompanied us all day, stopped suddenly,
+and, pointing with his finger, said, "Emu!" About a mile distant
+across the prairie were two of those large birds quietly feeding.
+The dogs were immediately called together, fresh vigour seemed to
+animate the whole party, and we proceeded to give chase in high
+spirits. Emus are sometimes shot with the rifle, but the usual mode
+of obtaining them is by hunting them with kangaroo dogs. If you
+happen to come near enough to them without raising alarm, they may
+frequently be detained, and even attracted almost up to your stirrup
+by WHISTLING. I have known this to be repeatedly tried with success.
+When you begin to whistle, the emu lifts up its head and listens with
+attention; soon, delighted with the sound, he walks leisurely in the
+direction from which it comes; then, perceiving a human being, he
+pauses, seems irresolute, and finally walks round and round you in
+circles gradually lessening, until he approaches within a few yards.
+If his confidence be not repaid with a bullet, he will, after
+gratifying his curiosity by a good stare, quietly walk away through
+his native woods. Emus are frequently speared by the natives, who,
+by taking care to stand stock-still the moment the creature lifts up
+its head, manage to approach within a few yards of them while
+feeding. Though the savage may have his hand raised in the act of
+throwing the spear, he remains fixed in that attitude whilst the emu
+takes a survey of him. Perceiving only an object without motion, the
+bird takes him for a tree, and continues to graze, falling a victim,
+like other innocent things, to a misplaced confidence in its own
+security.
+
+
+[illustration opposite p 336 is "Death of the Kangaroo"]
+[illustration on p 338 is untitled - dog chasing emu]
+
+
+The emus ran fast, and gave us a long chase; but at length the
+headmost dog caught hold of the extended flapper of one of the birds,
+and arrested its progress; the others, coming up, soon pulled him to
+the ground, and by the time we reached the spot he was dead. The
+feathers from the tail were distributed among the party, and placed
+in our caps; and the legs being cut off, the rest of the bird was
+abandoned. The legs alone afford any meat, which is by no means a
+delicacy, and resembles coarse beef. Whilst the process of cutting
+up was going on, my attention was attracted to the movements of old
+Tip, who had stolen away from the party, and was now, ventre a
+terre, scouring along the edge of a belt of trees about a quarter of
+a mile from us. His master in vain tried to recall him, and I set
+off to see what he was about. Following him through the wood, I
+perceived him at the other side in hot pursuit of half-a-dozen
+kangaroos, that were bounding away some hundred yards ahead of him.
+It was in vain to attempt to recall him, so I foolishly followed the
+chase, though it was leading far away from the direction I wanted to
+take. Old Tip held on unflaggingly, as though this were his first
+run that day; and for nearly two miles we dashed along through woods
+and across prairies, until I began to wish myself back with my
+friends. At length we lost the game in a vast swamp, covered with
+thick underwood, in which my horse floundered for some time in a
+fearful manner. Thinking it worse to return than to push through, we
+struggled on, in momentary danger of sinking for ever, and after
+great exertions got upon solid ground again. When dismounted, to rest
+the horse, who panted and trembled with the efforts he had made, I
+called for Tip till the woods rang again, but all in vain. At last I
+saw a single kangaroo, a fresh one of immense size, break cover, with
+Tip about forty yards in his rear. In the ardour of the chase, all
+prudential considerations were given to the winds; and cheering on
+the gallant hound, I followed the game more determinedly than ever.
+And what a race that villain kangaroo led us! -- through thickets
+where my hunting-shirt was torn into strips, my arms and legs covered
+with bruises, and my face lacerated with boughs that were not to be
+avoided. The villain doubled like a hare, and led us in such various
+directions, that I fancied we must have turned upon our steps and
+gone past the spot where I had parted from my friends. Unless a man
+be very well accustomed to the bush, he is certain to lose himself in
+a few minutes. One clump of trees is so like another -- the thick
+swamps, the open plains, all bear such a general resemblance to one
+another, that you feel quite confounded whilst trying to recollect
+whether you have really seen them before, and can form some tolerable
+guess as to your position. The kangaroo was now approaching the foot
+of the long, even, uninteresting range of the Darling Hills; his pace
+was slow, he made his leaps with difficulty, and would soon have been
+caught, had not poor Tip been equally dead beat.
+
+It was evident the old dog could scarcely drag himself along, but
+still he refused to give in. My horse, exhausted with floundering in
+the swamp, was completely knocked up; and for some time I had only
+been able to push him along at a jog-trot. Still I was no more
+willing to give up the chase than old Tip. It seemed to have become
+a point of honour that I should not desert the hound; and moreover,
+feeling myself completely lost, I did not like to part from my
+companion; and, above all, it would never do to let the kangaroo
+escape after all the trouble he had given us. So we all three
+continued to work along as best we could.
+
+At last my poor horse happened to set his foot in an empty
+water-hole, and too weak to recover himself, came down on his
+shoulder and side with great violence. I threw myself off as he
+fell, but could not save my foot from being crushed beneath the
+saddle, and so both horse and man lay extended on the ground. I
+could just see the hound and kangaroo still struggling onward, and
+almost close together. The horse made no attempt to rise, and I
+tried in vain to extricate my foot; at length I managed to flog him
+up, and then raised myself with difficulty. I had not suffered much
+damage, though bruised, and in some pain, but my poor horse had
+sprained his shoulder, and was completely hors de combat. On
+looking about for the chase, I fancied I could perceive the dog lying
+on a little rising ground, a few hundred yards distant; and leaving
+the horse, I hopped after the game. On arriving at the spot, I found
+the kangaroo and the dog lying side by side, both alive, but
+completely exhausted; the one unable to do any injury, and the other
+to get away. Securing the dog with my handkerchief, I sat down,
+waiting till he should be able to walk. In a few minutes the
+kangaroo lifted up his head, and looked about him; the dog sat up,
+panting as though his heart would burst, and took no notice of the
+other. The kangaroo, scrambling to its feet, hopped away a few
+yards, and then stood still again. "Go along, old fellow!" said I,
+"you have done us abundance of mischief, but it would be criminal to
+kill you when I cannot carry home even your tail -- so farewell!"
+Off he jumped, and was soon lost to view, leaving us alone -- three
+miserable cripples, far from any shelter, and (so far as I was
+concerned) not knowing at all how to rejoin our friends. Tip being
+now able to limp on three legs, and myself upon one, we returned to
+the unhappy steed, who remained where I had left him, hanging down
+his head, and looking the image of woe.
+
+In vain I tried to determine the direction I ought to take; trees and
+swamps were on all sides of me, and I could not decide whether my
+friends were now on my right-hand or my left. I remembered that our
+place of rendezvous appeared to be nearly opposite an opening in the
+hills, some six or eight miles distant; but there were openings in
+the hills on each side of me, and which was the one to be sought I
+could not determine. I therefore resolved to retrace the foot-marks
+of my horse, if possible; and set out leading the animal, having Tip
+limping at my side, and every now and then looking up as though he
+felt for the ill plight in which we all appeared. It soon became
+evident that the horse must be left behind; and therefore removing
+his saddle and bridle, I placed them at the foot of a tree, and gave
+him his liberty.*
+
+
+[footnote] *Six months afterwards he was caught among the horses of a
+settler on the Serpentine, perfectly sound and in excellent condition.
+
+
+After going some distance, I came within view of an extensive swamp,
+which I fancied formed part of that I had so much difficulty in
+crossing. Turning to the right, I followed its course for some time,
+hoping to get round it, but it seemed to extend towards the hills,
+cutting off all farther progress. The sun was now about to set, and
+getting desperate, I plunged into the thicket, and tried to push
+through the swamp. There was no water, but the immense quantities of
+bind-weed, and other thickly-growing plants, quite defied every
+attempt, and I was obliged to turn back again. Tip and myself had
+now to retrace our steps. It was getting dusk, and the state of
+affairs looked uncomfortable. Again we tried in vain to cross the
+swamp, which soon afterwards receded farther from the hills, and left
+a broad plain before us, which we traversed in the course of half an
+hour.
+
+My foot seemed to get better with exercise, but night had now set in,
+and it was useless to attempt making farther progress, when we could
+not distinguish an object thirty feet in advance. I now found myself
+stumbling up a rising ground covered with trees; and here I lay down,
+with Tip at my side, to wait as patiently as possible for morning.
+The dog, I imagine, had found some water in the swamp, as he did not
+now seem to be suffering from thirst as I was myself. He was soon
+asleep, and I envied him, for hours elapsed before I could find
+repose. The land-wind, sweeping down from the hill-side, moaned
+through the trees; the rising moon shed her sickly and distorting
+light upon the bushes around; and bruised and stiff, hungry, thirsty,
+and uncomfortable, I felt by no means delighted with my quarters. A
+fire would have been agreeable, but there were no means of procuring
+one. Sleep at last befriended me, and I did not wake until the sun
+began to shed his first rays upon the tops of the trees.
+
+On rising I found myself exceedingly stiff, and by no means in good
+condition for walking, but there was no choice; and when Tip had got
+upon his legs, and given himself a good stretch and yawn, and licked
+my hand, as much as to say he had no intention of leaving me in the
+lurch, we started on our doubtful journey. In vain I tried to
+encourage the dog to lead the way; he would not stir from my side.
+Only once he darted after a kangaroo-rat, and caught it before it had
+gone twenty yards. This afforded a breakfast which I envied him. I
+now pushed on towards the coast, but was continually intercepted by
+thick swamps impossible to penetrate, and turned from the right
+direction. I looked about for water, and found some at length in a
+muddy hole. It was most refreshing, and revived my spirits, which
+had begun to flag considerably.
+
+Mid-day was long past, and I was still rambling over plains of coarse
+grass, penetrating into woods, and struggling through swamps; worn
+almost to death with fatigue and hunger, and the pain of my ankle,
+now greatly swollen, I sat down at last at the foot of a
+mahogany-tree in order to gain a little rest.
+
+I knew that the hills were behind me, and the sea must be somewhere
+before me, but as to my precise locality, and the distance of the
+nearest settler's house, I was quite at a loss. In vain I tried to
+satisfy myself as to whether I was much to the south of the bivouac.
+I was growing dizzy with hunger and weariness, and no longer felt any
+wonder at the confusion of mind which seizes upon those who are lost
+in the wilderness. During the day, I had repeatedly cooeyed as
+loudly as I could, in the faint hope of attracting the attention of
+my friends; but no voice responded.
+
+It was now nearly five o'clock in the evening, and I had the prospect
+before me of spending another night in solitude, and felt some
+misgivings as to whether it would not be the last of my existence.
+
+I tried to struggle on a little farther, as it was possible that I
+might be close to some farm on the Serpentine; but it was difficult
+to move along. Tip seemed to be getting tired of this slow progress;
+he grew fidgety, and I fancied he had formed the base resolution of
+leaving me to myself. Suddenly he started off upon our traces, and I
+was alone without a friend.
+
+In a few minutes I heard behind me a distant shout, and immediately
+afterwards a loud cooey met my ear. Oh how thankfully I heard it,
+and answered it as loudly as I could! And then, having returned
+grateful acknowledgments to the Almighty for this seasonable relief,
+I began to walk towards the sounds, which were repeated from minute
+to minute. Not long afterwards I perceived a party of natives,
+followed by men on horseback, emerging from the trees. The latter
+galloped towards me, waving their hats, and shouting with friendly
+joy. It is due to Tip to state that he reached me first, and gave
+his congratulations with warm sincerity.
+
+My friends had started at day-break with the natives, who had tracked
+my footsteps without once losing the trail. They had found the horse
+grazing near the place where I had left him, but he was too lame to
+be removed; the natives had fully accounted for every trace; they
+perceived that the dog and kangaroo had lain side by side, and that
+the latter had recovered first, and got away. They found and brought
+with them the saddle and bridle, and followed my steps to the swamp,
+through which they saw I had not been able to penetrate. And so they
+tracked me during the whole of the day, whilst I was only going farther
+and farther from my friends. I had wandered much more to the south than
+I expected; and now, mounting a horse, we all rode to a house on the
+Serpentine, where we were hospitably entertained, and where I continued
+until able to return to Perth.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 27.
+
+THE COMET. -- VITAL STATISTICS. -- METEOROLOGY.
+
+One evening in March, 1844, whilst standing at my gate enjoying the
+pleasant balmy air and the conversation of a friend, our attention
+was attracted to a luminous appearance in the sky immediately above
+the horizon. We fancied that a large ship must be on fire not a
+great distance from the coast.
+
+The next evening, happening to leave the house at an early hour, my
+eye was immediately caught by a grant novelty in the heavens. A
+magnificent comet extended itself over an entire fifth of the
+firmament. Its tail reached to the belt of Orion, whilst its
+nucleus, a ball of fire resembling a star of the fourth magnitude,
+was scarcely a degree above the horizon. It looked like a fiery
+messenger rushing headlong down from the very presence of GOD, bound
+with dread tidings for some distant world. Beautiful, yet terrible
+messenger, it seemed to leave its long, fiery trace behind it in its
+passage through the heavens. The soul of the spectator was filled
+with the sense of its beauty, whilst admiration was sublimed into
+awe. Speaking to us strange and wonderful things of the hidden Holy
+of Holies which it seemed to have left, it passed on its headlong
+journey of billions and trillions of miles with the glad speed of a
+love-inspired emanation from the Most High. It left us to wonder at
+its transient visit, and to wish in vain for its return.*
+
+
+[footnote] *This comet, having exactly the appearance I have
+described, was visible nearly a week, gradually disappearing in the
+northern heavens.
+
+
+Whether it had or not any effect upon the season, I cannot say, but
+the ensuing six months were the most unhealthy period ever known in
+the colony. The natives, who were greatly alarmed by the sudden
+appearance of the comet, declared that it would cause many people to
+be mendik and die -- so universal is the belief in the portentous
+and malign influence of these phenomena.
+
+In general, as I have before observed, the climate is most
+salubrious. "The Comparative Statement of Deaths to the Population"
+proves the vast superiority of Western Australia in this respect, not
+only over Great Britain, but over neighbouring colonies. I refer to
+the able, interesting, and carefully-prepared Reports of G. F. Stone,
+Esq. the Colonial Registrar-General of Births, Marriages, and Deaths.
+Taking his data from the Parliamentary Reports of 1836, he deduces
+the following:
+
+Comparative Statement of Deaths to the Population.
+
+Western Australia . . . . . . . . . .1 death in 94 21/41
+Van Dieman's Land . . . . . . . . . .1   "      65 161/220
+Cape of Good Hope . . . . . . . . . .1   "      60 1/3
+England . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1   "      46 3/5
+Mauritius . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1   "      44 2/5
+
+The opinions of medical men, published in different reports, a few of
+which happen now to lie before me, may prove interesting to some
+readers, and I therefore extract them briefly: --
+
+J. M. Johnson, Esq. M.D. Surgeon of H.M.S. Sulphur: --
+"During the three years that H.M.S. Sulphur was employed on that
+station (Western Australia) not a single death, and very few
+important cases of disease occurred, notwithstanding the very great
+exposure of her men. When exploring the country for several days,
+and sometimes weeks, they have been exposed to the sun; fatigued in
+the evening after a day's excursion, slept in the open air, (and that
+repeatedly in wet weather,) and suffered no inconvenience. I have no
+hesitation in stating that such a life in any other climate would
+have been productive of the most serious sickness."
+
+William Milligen, Esq. M.D. Surgeon 6th Dragoons: --
+"I have met with several individuals here, who, on leaving England,
+were great sufferers from dyspepsia, and diseases of the digestive
+organs, who have recovered their health in a wonderful degree since
+their arrival. Children thrive remarkably well; and I may add that
+every description of live stock, although collected from different
+countries -- England, India, America, Africa, etc. -- find here a
+congenial temperature."
+
+Joseph Harris, Esq. Acting Government Surgeon: --
+"Nothing can be more delightful than the climate generally; and its
+invigorating influences on the human constitution, especially those
+of Europeans, render it more fit for invalids than any other in the
+world. Several persons arrived in the colony suffering from
+pulmonary and bronchial affections, asthma, phthisis, haemoptysis, or
+spitting of blood, hopeless of recovery in England, are now perfectly
+restored, or living in comparative health -- measles and small-pox
+are unknown."
+
+W. H. Sholl, Esq. Government Surgeon, pro tempore: --
+"From pulmonary complaints we are happily free; and even when these
+have gone to some length in other countries, removal to this climate
+has been of the highest possible benefit. Children are exempt from
+the diseases common to them in England; -- small-pox, measles,
+scarlet-fever, and hooping-cough, are unknown here."
+
+W. P. Dineley, Esq. Surgeon of Fremantle Gaol: --
+"We have almost a cloudless sky, a clear dry atmosphere, and a
+climate unsurpassed by any in the world."
+
+Dr. Ferguson, of Australind: --
+"We have no fevers or epidemics here."
+
+By the Registrar-General's Report for 1843, it appears that the
+births in Western Australia are about 1 to 24 83/158, which is a very
+high rate. Those readers who are fond of statistics will be pleased
+to learn the following rather curious fact: -- In the year 1836,
+males were in respect to females, as about five to three, but during
+the following seven years, females increased 21 per cent. more than
+males; and the continued preponderance of female births promises
+speedily to adjust the balance of the sexes.
+
+The Registrar-General in his Report for 1844, makes the following
+interesting observations: --
+"Supposing the whole population of the colony were now grown up and
+unmarried, out of every 100 males, as many as 67 could find wives.
+
+"Supposing the total population UNDER TWELVE were now of age, and
+wished to marry; out of every 100 males 97 could find wives.
+
+"Supposing the total population OF PERTH were now grown up, and
+unmarried, 87 out of every 100 males could find wives.
+
+"But supposing the population OF PERTH UNDER TWELVE were grown up,
+and wished to marry, out of 100 FEMALES, only 85 could find husbands."
+
+The temperature of the atmosphere is exceedingly dry, and therefore
+the heat is not oppressive, though the thermometer may stand at a
+high degree.
+
+A rainy day in February or March is an extremely rare occurrence at
+Perth, though not unusual at Australind, a hundred miles southward.
+
+In the hottest weather, farm-labourers work all day in the open air,
+and feel no more inconvenience than reapers do in England. This is
+owing to the dryness and elasticity of the atmosphere.
+
+I have no recorded observations of a late date, but the following
+table is extracted from the journal of an obliging friend, Robert
+Dale, Esq., who, when a Lieutenant in the 63d regiment, was stationed
+some years in the colony.
+
+The thermometer was kept in a cool house at Perth, from March, 1830
+to June 1831.
+
+MONTHS.     A     B     C     D     E     F     REMARKS.
+   1830
+March . . .28 . . 2 . . 1 . .88 . .71 . .58
+April . . .23 . . 0 . . 7 . .87 . .70 1/2. .54
+May . . . .17 . . 6 . . 8 . .84 . .64 1/2. .45 . .Fine weather at commence-
+                                                ment of this month.
+June . . . 18 . . 5 . . 2 . .76 . .56 . .40 . .Five days not accounted
+                                                for.
+July . . . 14 . . 9 . . 8 . .65 . .49 1/2. .30
+August . .  9 . . 8 . . 7 . .76 . .57 . .38 . .Seven days not accounted
+                                                for.
+September .17 . . 2 . . 4 . .80 . .62 . .44 . .   Ditto      ditto.
+October . .19 . . 5 . . 6 . .78 . .62 . .46 . .One day not accounted for
+November . 23 . . 3 . . 4 . .93 . .73 1/2. .54
+December   26 . . - . . 5 . 103 . .82 1/2. .62    The thermometer was lower
+                                                than what is marked in
+                                                the minimum column.
+    1831
+January    28 . . - . . 3 . 106 . .87 . .68
+February   26 . . 1 . . 1 . 102 . .82 . .62
+March      30 . . - . . 1 .  96 . .78 . .60
+April . . .28 . . - . . 2 . .98 . .73 . .48
+May . . . .21 . . 2 . . 8 . .78 . .61 . .44    At this season frequently
+                                                a heavy dew during the
+                                                night.
+June . . . 14 . . 9 . . 7 . .70 . .52 . .38
+
+A - No. of Fine Days.
+B - No. of Rainy Days.
+C - No. of Showers
+D - Maximum Height of Thermometer
+E - Medium Height of Thermometer
+F - Minimum Height of Thermometer
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 28.
+
+THE BOTANY OF THE COLONY.
+
+Baron Hugel, Dr. Lindley, and Sir William Hooker, have published
+lists of Western Australian shrubs and plants, but the most complete
+and elaborate work on the botany of Western Australia is the series
+of nineteen letters published in the "Inquirer," by Mr. Drummond, of
+Hawthornden, in the colony, and from them we shall compile the
+present chapter; but, interesting as they are in their fullest and
+most minute details to botanists, it is possible that they may be TOO
+descriptive and extend too much into detail for general readers, and
+we shall therefore abstain from giving a catalogue of the various
+indigenous plants, and confine our remarks to the more useful ones.*
+The first to which Mr. Drummond alludes is the blackboy, of which
+there are several varieties. The glaucus-leaved York blackboy is,
+however, the most important, and grows thirty feet in height without
+a branch. It is considered by the settlers the best material for
+thatch, and the young and tender leaves are found to be an agreeable
+vegetable, and also fodder for horses, goats, sheep, and cattle. The
+natives are particularly fond of the blackboy, whilst its sound old
+flower-stalks furnish them with the means of obtaining a light by
+friction. The native yam, of the class Dioeceae, is stated by Mr.
+Drummond to be the finest esculent vegetable the colony produces.
+The fungi, or mushrooms, are also palatable to the Aborigines; one
+species belonging to this order, and named the Boletus, is
+remarkable for possessing the properties of German tinder, when well
+dried, and for emitting a radiant light in its natural state.
+
+
+[footnote] *This brief compilation is the work of Alexander Andrews,
+Esq.
+
+
+There are seventy species of grasses. The genus stripa has several
+varieties, of which the seeds are injurious to sheep, penetrating
+into the wool, and sometimes into the carcase and causing death. By
+adopting the precaution of shearing before the seeds are ripe, this
+mischief is however obviated. Another description is distinguished
+as elegantissima, from its beautiful appearance, and is used as a
+decoration, and for ornamenting rooms.
+
+The bulrush of Scripture is found here, and is used by coopers to
+stanch their work. A large jointed rush has also been found of great
+service, and introduced in the walls of houses to advantage, and some
+varieties of the Restiaceae are useful in thatch work; and in his
+sixth letter, Mr. Drummond mentions the buttack as very useful in
+tyings. A climbing species of the Thysanotus, near the Moore
+river, is much used by the natives as food. The Madge and the
+Guardine are roots from which the natives extract nutritious food;
+the pigs are also fond of them, and besides these there are other
+white roots used as food by the natives.
+
+The oak-leaved Chenopodium is supposed to contain essential oil; it
+was formerly used by the settlers as a vegetable, and is proved to
+contain carbonate of soda, so that, as Mr. Drummond suggests, "it
+would be worth inquiry at what price we could afford barilla as an
+export." The Erythraea Australis is, we are informed, a good
+substitute, and is used as such, for hops; and one species of tobacco
+is indigenous to the colony. The sow-thistle of Swan River was, in
+the early days of the settlement, used as a vegetable, but is now
+eaten only by the domestic animals, by whom it is much relished. As
+a salad, it is said to be scarcely inferior to endive. The
+Helicrysum, a biennial of the Vasse district, is a grateful fodder
+for horses, and the Morna nitida for goats, sheep, and cattle, as
+are also several species of Picris and other shrubs. There is also
+a native celery, which forms a poor substitute for that of Europe;
+two varieties of this species are mentioned -- the Conna, of which
+the roots are eaten by the natives after being peeled, and the
+Kukire, the foot of which resembles the carrot in appearance, with
+the smell and colour of the parsnip. The wild carrot is also an
+excellent vegetable, and from its root rich wine has been extracted.
+The order Eryngo has a species of which the roots when candied have
+great restorative powers. Of the Hederoma latifolia, Dr. Lindley
+remarks, that its half-ripe fruits, if sent to Europe, would give
+several original and valuable scents to the perfumer.
+
+Of the sea-weeds, one particular species, supposed to be the Fucus
+amylaeceus, thrown in great quantities upon the coast, is mentioned
+as forming when boiled, sweetened, and spiced, a nutritious and
+beautiful jelly of a fine rose colour; and as it appears that it may
+be dried without injury and preserved for years, it would be of value
+as an export.
+
+The catalogue of indigenous fruits is not very extensive, but one
+species, belonging to the order Epacrideae, is reported to bear
+very palatable berries. The Vasse apple, of the size of a peach, is
+stated when boiled with sugar to be an agreeable sweet-meat.
+
+Another fruit, of the species Mesembryanthemum, is of a less
+pleasing flavour; but one of the same species, resembling the English
+gooseberry, is said to be delicious. Mr. Drummond also records the
+discovery, southward of the Vasse, of a nondescript shrub of about
+five feet in height, and bearing fruit as large as a middle-sized
+plum, of a fine purple colour, covered with a rich bloom, and having
+a stone similar to the plum. It is reported to have a pleasing
+taste. This completes the list of fruits, which Mr. Drummond
+acknowledges to be imperfect, as the cultivation of the vine, olive,
+currant, and other imported fruits has withdrawn the attention of the
+settlers from the native productions; and we shall now pass to the
+smaller classes of the Eucalyptus tribe. The Doatta is a species
+of this class, and the bark of its root is much relished by the
+natives, having a sweet and pleasing taste, as is also the trunk of
+the red-gum; and its leaves, washed in water, form an agreeable
+beverage. They also collect a description of manna from the leaves
+of the York gum, which yields a considerable quantity of saccharine
+matter. The common green wattle of the genus of Acacia is found
+plentifully on the alluvial flats of the Swan, and the bark is much
+used for tanning; and the gum-wattle of the same order produces so
+great a quantity of gum as to demand the attention of exporters.
+Another shrub of this order is found in the Vasse district, and
+produces galls similar to those of the oak, which might also be
+collected for exportation. The gum of some of these species is used
+by the natives as food, and the seeds, when ground, give them a
+tolerable substitute for flour.
+
+Instead of entering more at large into dry botanical details, I will
+transfer to these pages a letter from my respected friend, Mr. James
+Drummond, the botanist already alluded to, which perhaps will prove
+more acceptable to the general reader.
+
+This letter was published at the time in the local journals.
+
+"Dear Sir, -- I send you a few extracts from a journal of observations
+which I made in a journey to the north, in company with Mr. Gilbert,
+the ornithologist.* My sons had heard from the natives that a
+considerable river and lakes of fresh water were to be found about
+two days' journey to the north of their station on the Moore River;
+and in company with Captain Scully, the Government Resident of this
+district, they determined to explore the country in that direction.
+Mr. Phillips and some other gentlemen who were to be of the party, as
+well as Mr. Gilbert and myself, arrived at the station too late; I
+shall therefore principally confine my observations to Mr. Gilbert's
+transactions and my own.
+
+
+[footnote] * Mr. Gilbert, an enthusiastic naturalist, and an amiable
+and highly respectable man, was treacherously murdered by natives to
+the North-East of New Holland, whilst engaged upon a scientific
+expedition.
+
+
+"We left Hawthornden on the 22d August, and slept at the residence of
+Captain Scully, who had set out some days before to join the
+exploring party. On the 23d we proceeded on our journey to the
+north, and in about five or six miles we examined some remarkable
+masses of granite rocks a little to the right of the road which is
+formed by our carts and horses passing to and from the Moore River.
+Mr. Gilbert found a small but curious fresh-water shell in some pools
+of rain-water on the rocks, and I found two plants which I had not
+seen before. In about eleven or twelve miles from Captain Scully's
+we reached a permanent spring called Yoolgan, where there is
+excellent grass, and where we stopped to dine and feed our horses.
+Soon after leaving Yoolgan, we met with Mr. Phillips and Mr. John
+Mackie returning; they had arrived at our station a day too late for
+the party; we therefore knew that our hurrying on to join them was
+useless. In ten or twelve miles from Yoolgan we reached Yeinart, a
+tea-tree swamp, where there is grass and water to be had throughout
+the year. The night threatened to rain, but we arrived too late to
+do much in the house-making way; fortunately, the rain kept off until
+daylight, when we soon covered our house with tea-tree bark, and
+determined to stop for the day, which I consider the best way, as no
+collections can be made when it is raining, and provisions and
+everything get spoiled. It cleared up about ten o'clock, and we went
+to visit a brushwood swamp, where my son Johnston had shot several
+specimens of a beautiful species of kangaroo with a dark-coloured
+fur, overtopped with silvery hairs, called Marnine by the natives:
+we saw plenty of tracks of the animals, but could not see a single
+specimen. On the top of a hill to the north of the swamp I succeeded
+in finding two very distinct species of Dryandra, new to me. I
+also found a fine species of Eucalyptus in flower, which is
+distinguished from the Matilgarring of the natives, the
+Eucalyptus macrocarpus of Sir W. T. Hooker, by having lengthened
+recurved flower-stalks; the flowers are rose-coloured.
+
+"On the 25th we proceeded on our journey. I observed two new species
+of acacia near Yeinart. We mistook our road, and made our old
+station at Badgee-badgee, where we stopped to dine and feed our
+horses. I also found some curious aquatic plants in the pools of
+water among the rocks at Badgee-badgee. After dinner we succeeded
+with difficulty in tracing our road to our present station on the
+Mouran pool, the cart tracks being nearly obliterated by the
+trampling of the sheep. On arriving, we found that the exploring
+party had returned, and that Captain Scully and my son James had
+left, on their return, about half an hour before our arrival. The
+mutilated specimens of plants brought home by the party, and the
+accounts of some which were left behind, determined me to visit the
+new river myself, after botanizing a day in the vicinity of the
+station, where I found a fine glaucus-leaved Anadenia, and Mr.
+Gilbert got specimens of the blue kangaroo, and several small new
+quadrupeds -- one of them apparently a true rat, almost as large and
+mischievous as the Norway rat. Having got two natives, one of whom
+(Cabbinger) had been with the party to the north, we started on the
+27th, and slept at a spring called Boorbarna. On the way I found a
+species of the common poison which I had not seen before, and a
+beautiful Conospermum, with pannicles of blue flowers varying to
+white. I was informed, by my son Johnston, that a plant like
+horehound, but with scarlet flowers, in tubes about an inch long,
+grew on the top of a stony hill to the north of the spring; I went
+and found the plant, which belongs to Scrophularinae; I also found
+a Manglesia, allied to Tridentifera, but having the leaves more
+divided; I also found a beautiful blue climbing plant, a species of
+Pronaya, on the top of the same hill. On the 28th, soon after
+setting out on our journey, I found two splendid species of
+everlasting flower, of which my son Johnston had been the original
+discoverer; one, with golden-yellow flowers varying to white, has the
+flowers in heads different from anything of the sort I have seen
+before, and will, I think, form a new genus of Compositae; and the
+other with pink flowers, growing two feet high, something like
+Lawrencella rosea, or Rhodanthe Manglesii, but if possible finer
+than either. In nine or ten miles to the north of Boorbarna, we
+crossed a curious tract of country, covered with what I considered a
+variety of quartz, which breaks with a conchoidal fracture, but it
+has very much the appearance of flint; in many places the pieces were
+large, with sharp angles; my sons complained that it injured their
+horses' feet, but by alighting, and leading our horses over the worse
+parts, I did not perceive any bad effects from it. This tract of
+country produces some interesting plants; a splendid Calathamnus,
+with leaves nine inches long, and showy scarlet flowers, was found by
+my youngest son, and I got plenty of specimens.
+
+"With regard to a new Banksia, allied to Aquifolia, which he
+found here, I was not so fortunate, and he brought home no specimens.
+After crossing several miles of this quartz formation, we came upon
+an extensive flat of strong clay, covered with Eucalyptus, and some
+curious species of acacia; we crossed a considerable river, or brook,
+running strong to the west, and about two miles, after crossing this
+brook, we made the river we were in quest of at a place called
+Murarino by the natives. Near the river I found a splendid plant,
+which had been first observed by my son Johnston; he took it for a
+Lasiopetalum, but I expect it will prove to be a species of
+Solanum; it grows two or three feet high, with large purple
+flowers, with calyxes like brown velvet; the leaves are irregularly
+shaped, acuminate, about two inches long, and an inch and a half wide
+at their broadest parts; the stems are prickly, and all the leaves
+covered with a down as in Lasiopetalum. I am uncertain about the
+genus, not having seen the seed-vessels, but whatever that may be, it
+is of our finest Australian plants.
+
+"We stopped to dine on the river, and in about four miles farther to
+the north, we reached two fresh-water lakes called Dalarn and
+Maradine. Ducks of various sorts were here in thousands, and the
+water-hens, or gallinules, which visited the settlements on the Swan
+some years ago, were plentiful. Mr. Gilbert shot three or four at a
+shot. I found a fine Baechia, which had been first found by my son
+James, and a curious new plant belonging to Compositae, but not yet
+in flower. The appearance of the country about these lakes, of which
+there are several besides those I have named, and the plants which
+grow about them, which are generally met with at no great distance
+from the sea, seem to prove that the lakes are at no great distance
+from it, and that the Darling Range does not extend so far to the
+north. No hills of any description appeared to the west; from the
+top of a hill to the east, two remarkable hills appeared, apparently
+about thirty miles to the north; one of them was observed by my son
+to have a remarkable peaked top, and they supposed they might be
+Mount Heathcote and Wizard Peak. We saw, as we came along, a high
+hill, which the natives called Wangan Catta; they said it was three
+days' walk to it; it lay due east of our course.
+
+"On the 29th, we returned on our track for about seven miles, until
+we reached the first running river we met on our journey to the
+north. Our guides agreed to take us back by a different route, and
+to take us to a hill where a curious species of kangaroo called
+Damar by them, would be met with. My son Johnston has shot several
+of these animals about a day's walk to the east of our station on the
+Moore River. We therefore ascended this river in a course S.E. by E.,
+and soon after we were upon its banks, we came upon a grassy country;
+three or four miles up we stopped to dine and feed the horses, at a
+place called Nugadrine; several pairs of beautiful falcons, the
+Falco Nypolencus of Gould, were flying over us, and Mr. Gilbert
+succeeded in shooting one of them. After dinner, we proceeded in the
+same direction for nine or ten miles; we soon crossed the tracks of
+Captain Scully and my sons on their return; they had gone up the main
+or northern branch of the river, and had found but little grass while
+they followed its banks; but they had passed over a great deal of
+grassy land in crossing the country from it to the Moore River.
+
+"We travelled for ten or eleven miles through a splendid grassy
+country, and met with a large tribe of natives, several of whom had
+never seen white men before; they were very friendly, and offered us
+some of their favourite root, the wyrang, which grows abundantly
+among these grassy hills. They made so much noise, that we wished to
+get some distance from them to sleep, but they all followed us and
+encamped near, many of the single men sleeping by our fire. In the
+morning of the 30th I went to the top of a hill, near our bivouac,
+while Mr. Gilbert was superintending the preparations for breakfast,
+and clipping the beards of some of our new friends. After breakfast,
+we started direct for our station on the Moore River; the natives who
+were with us as guides considering our stock of flour insufficient to
+proceed any farther in the direction of the hill where they expected
+to find the Damars. For almost the whole of this day we travelled
+over the most splendid grassy country I have ever seen in Australia;
+the hill-sides, as far as we could see in every direction, were
+covered with beautiful grass, and of a golden colour, from the
+flowers of the beautiful yellow everlasting flower which I have
+described in a former part of this letter, which is only to be found
+in the richest soil. After reaching our station, I was a day or two
+employed in drying my specimens of plants. My son Johnston pointed
+out a most beautiful new Dryandra, which he had discovered on the
+top of a hill near the Mouran-pool; I have named the species
+Dryandra floribunda, from its numerous blossoms, which almost hide
+the leaves; it grows twelve or fifteen feet high, and in such
+abundance, that the side of the hill on which it grows actually
+appears of a golden colour for several miles. I consider it the most
+beautiful species of the genus yet known for cultivation.
+
+"I am, Sir,
+"Your obedient servant,
+"James Drummond.
+
+"P.S. -- Our course generally by compass from Hawthornden to these
+lakes has been several points to the west of north. The natives
+informed us, when at the lakes, that they could reach the sea-coast
+long before sunset.
+
+"Hawthornden Farm, Toodyay Valley."
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 29.
+
+MISFORTUNES OF THE COLONY.
+
+Many causes have unhappily united to keep Western Australia from
+rising into notice and importance with that rapidity which has marked
+the career of the other Australian colonies. The misfortunes of the
+first settlers, attributable in a great measure to flagrant
+mismanagement, deterred intending emigrants from tempting the like
+fate. The man who had the largest grant in the colony allotted to
+him -- a monster grant of 250,000 acres -- made so ill an use of the
+means at his command, that nothing but misery and misfortune has ever
+attended his steps. The funds with which he was intrusted might have
+been applied with the happiest effect, both for the advancement of
+the colony and of his own personal fortunes. The people whom he
+brought out, chiefly mechanics and labourers, to the number of four
+hundred or upwards, were sufficient to have formed a settlement of
+their own. By an unhappy fatality, the early settlers were landed on
+a part of the coast the most unfavourable in the world for their
+purposes. The whole country around them was a mere limestone rock.
+Here, however, the town-site of Clarence was fixed upon, but scarcely
+a yard of land was to be found that afforded space for a garden. No
+attempt was made to sow grain, or plant potatoes, to provide for the
+wants of the following year.
+
+The people lived upon the provisions they had brought out with them.
+The four hundred workmen being left by their principal without
+direction or employment, soon consumed in riotous living the abundant
+stores left at their disposal, and too soon found that destitution is
+the inevitable consequence of idleness and folly. Many perished
+miserably of want and sickness, and many others effected their escape
+to Van Dieman's Land, where they gave a melancholy account of the
+wretchedness of those who were unable to flee from the scene of their
+errors.
+
+The active intelligence, and unremitting exertions of the Governor,
+Sir James Stirling, at length ameliorated the condition of the
+unfortunate settlers. He removed the seat of Government to Perth,
+and explored the neighbouring country in every direction in the hope
+of finding tracts of land sufficient for the support of the people
+under his charge. The flats of the Swan River afforded all the
+facilities he required; but the settlers were greatly intimidated by
+the treacherous attacks of the natives, and were very reluctant to
+separate from the main body. In consequence of these fears, many
+consumed their capital in their present support, instead of applying
+it in the formation of farms, and laying the ground-work of future
+prosperity. Provisions being all imported, were sold at high rates,
+and the hesitating colonists became unavoidably subservient to the
+cupidity of the traders.
+
+In addition to these misfortunes, no man liked to lay out his money
+in building a house upon land which might not eventually be allotted
+to him. He lived therefore, with his wife, children, and servants,
+miserably under a tent, until the surveyor-general should be able to
+point out to him the land which had fallen to his share, in the
+general lottery of the Government. In many cases this was not done
+for one or two years after the formation of the colony, in
+consequence of the lamentably inefficient force placed at the
+disposal of the able and indefatigable surveyor-general; and even
+then, the boundaries of the different allotments were not permanently
+defined. This state of incertitude had the most fatal effect, not
+only upon the fortunes, but upon the moral condition of the settlers.
+Those who had come out resolutely bent upon cultivating their own
+land, and supporting themselves and families by their manual labour,
+refused to make the necessary exertions upon property which might
+eventually belong to others for whom they had no desire to toil.
+Waiting, therefore, in their tents on the shore, until the Government
+should determine their respective locations, they passed the time in
+idleness, or in drinking and riotous living; and when at length they
+obtained their Letters of Allocation, they found themselves without
+money or any means of subsistence, except by hiring out their manual
+labour to others more prudent, or more fortunate.
+
+Other accidental circumstances have combined to retard the progress
+of the colony. From ignorance of the seasons, many lost their crops,
+and were obliged consequently to expend the last remains of their
+capital in procuring necessary supplies. From the same cause,
+vessels which brought emigrants to the colony were not secured during
+the winter season in the safest anchorages, and being exposed to the
+fury of the north-west gales, were in too many instances, driven
+ashore and completely wrecked.
+
+Again, too, there has always existed a strong desire on the part of
+Western Australia to connect herself with India, conscious that there
+are great facilities of communication between the countries, from
+favourable trade-winds, and that her own climate is perhaps better
+suited to invalids than even that of the Cape. This desire has been
+met by several influential gentleman of Calcutta, and on two
+occasions, vessels were freighted and despatched from that city to
+the colony, in the hope of establishing a mutually advantageous
+connexion, and on both occasions the vessels were lost on the voyage.
+At length a small establishment was effected near Australind, by the
+agents of Mr. W. H. Prinsep, for the purpose of breeding horses for
+the Indian market; and we most sincerely hope success will ultimately
+attend the enterprising effort. Indian officers have occasionally
+visited the colony; but they have naturally received unfavourable
+impressions, from being unable to find those accommodations and
+luxuries to which they had been accustomed.
+
+The settlers will not build houses and lay out their money on the
+mere speculation of gaining advantage by the visits of Indian
+officers, but if once there appeared a reasonable prospect of early
+remuneration, every convenience would be provided, and every comfort
+ensured to visitors. Living is now extremely cheap, and there is a
+profusion of vegetables and fruits of every kind. There are plenty
+of good horses and pleasure-boats, and there are the amusements of
+fishing, and hunting the Kangaroo and Emu.
+
+The misconduct of some, and the misfortunes of others of the early
+settlers, tended to bring about calamities which were echoed
+throughout Great Britain, and for many years had the effect of
+turning the stream of emigration away from these shores. Other
+causes have also contributed to this end. The Government plan of
+giving grants of land to emigrants, proportioned to the capital which
+they introduced into the colony, was good to a certain extent, but
+the object was perverted, and the boon abused. In almost all
+instances, men received a much greater quantity of land than they
+were justly entitled to. Every article of provisions, furniture, and
+household effects, and even wearing apparel, were taken into account.
+The valuations were made by friends and neighbours, who accommodated
+one another, and rated the property of the applicant at a most
+astounding price. The consequence has been, that large grants of
+land have fallen into the hands of those who have never lived upon
+them, or spent anything upon their improvement, beyond a fictitious
+amount which they were required to specify to the Government before
+they could obtain possession of their deeds of grant. These original
+grantees have clung to their lands with desperate tenacity, in the
+hope that some day their value will be more than nominal. The idea
+that all the best portions of the colony are in the hands of a few
+great unimproving proprietors, has been one reason why emigrants have
+turned away from it.
+
+But the provision, which has so long been an evil to the colony, may
+now be looked upon, thanks to the narrow-minded policy of the Home
+Government, as an advantage. These original grants, which have
+proved so little beneficial to the owner, and so highly detrimental
+to the community, are now far more easily obtainable by the emigrant
+than the surrounding crown-lands. The policy of the Government has
+entirely changed with regard to the disposal of waste lands in the
+Australian colonies; instead of giving them away with a lavish hand,
+it has for some years been the practice to throw every obstacle in
+the way of intending purchasers.
+
+They are now valued at one pound per acre, though it is well known,
+even at the colonial office, that five acres of Australian land are
+requisite to maintain a single sheep; and as the average value of
+sheep in all these colonies is six or seven shillings, it scarcely
+requires the head of a Secretary of State to calculate that every one
+who buys land for the purpose of feeding his flocks upon it, must be
+content to purchase it at an irreparable loss of capital. In
+consequence of this wise regulation, no purchase of crown-lands are
+now made in any of the Australian colonies, except of town
+allotments, which have a factitious value, altogether irrespective of
+the qualities of the soil. It is now that the holders of large
+grants find purchasers, as they are extremely willing to sell at a
+much lower rate than the crown. In Western Australia alone, however,
+are these grants to be found; and here excellent land may be
+purchased at three shillings an acre. Thus the careless profusion of
+one government, and the false policy and unhappy cupidity of another,
+have proved the means of placing this colony in a better position in
+some respects than any other.
+
+Western Australia has been unfortunate also in having had no powerful
+company to support her cause in England. The neighbouring colony of
+South Australia, with a much less extensive territory, and without
+any natural superiority in the quality of the soil, was immediately
+puffed into notice by the exertions of her friends at home.
+
+But whilst the settlers at Adelaide and their patrons in London,
+proclaimed to the world the advantages of the new colony, they
+scrupled not to draw comparisons between it and the Western
+settlement, that were neither flattering nor just to the latter. Not
+content with elevating their own idol with paeans and thanksgiving,
+before the gaze of a bedinned public, they persisted in shouting out
+their scorn and contempt at the pretensions of their unhappy
+neighbour. The public, with its usual discernment, gave implicit
+credence to both fables. Western Australia had met its contumelious
+detractors with silence; and the false statements were therefore
+looked upon as admitted and undeniable. But notwithstanding the
+injurious misrepresentations of enemies, and her own injurious
+silence, this colony has been quietly and steadily progressing, until
+she has laid for herself a foundation that no envious calumny can
+shake. The last blow she has received was from the failure of the
+settlement at Australind; a subject that I intend to treat of in a
+separate chapter.
+
+So many misfortunes and untoward accidents have combined to prejudice
+the emigrating portion of the British public against Western
+Australia, that no voice is ever raised in her behalf, and scarcely
+any literary journal condescends to acknowledge her existence. And
+yet, notwithstanding the veil of darkness that conceals her from
+Northern eyes, there is perhaps no spot in the world that contains so
+eminently within itself the elements of prosperity and happiness. A
+climate more genial, more divine than that of Italy, robs poverty of
+its bleakness and its bitterness. Absolute want is never felt, and
+those who possess but little, find how little is sufficient in a
+climate so productive and so beneficent.
+
+The purity and elasticity of the atmosphere induce a continual flow
+of good spirits.
+
+To all the fruits of Italy in most abundant profusion, are added the
+productions of the East.
+
+The regularity of the seasons is so certain, that the husbandman
+always reckons with confidence upon his crops. No droughts
+interfere, AS IN THE OTHER COLONIES, to ruin his hopes. The
+vintages, annually increasing and improving, are equally free
+from disappointment.
+
+It must not, however, be denied that there are many natural
+disadvantages which can never be overcome without a much larger
+population.
+
+In the first place, the only good harbour on the Western coast has
+only just been discovered -- June 1846 -- and is at least thirty-five
+miles distant from Perth, the capital. Then, secondly, all the
+superior land of the colony is situated about sixty miles back from
+the capital, and the farmers therefore have a considerable distance
+to convey their produce to the port; and part of that distance the
+roads are extremely bad.
+
+There is another objection to the colony in the opinion of intending
+emigrants, which arises from a small plant, or shrub, of the order
+leguminosae, a deadly poison to sheep and cattle. This plant grows
+over the colony in patches, but is now so well known, that accidents
+very seldom occur from it, shepherds being careful not to allow their
+flocks to feed in its vicinity. It is however to be observed, that
+neither sheep nor cattle will feed upon this plant unless they be
+very hungry, and other food be wanting. It is very seldom indeed
+that cattle, which are sometimes left to roam at large over the
+country, are found to have perished from pasturing upon it. This
+plant has no injurious effect upon horses; but these animals have in
+several instances been poisoned by eating the leaves of a small plant
+described as resembling the ranunculus, which grows in small
+quantities in the Southern portion of the colony. A gentleman once
+informed me that he was riding up from Australind on a favourite and
+very fine horse, which he allowed to feed, during several hours of
+rest, on a spot where this plant unfortunately grew. On mounting to
+resume his journey, the horse seemed full of spirit; but he had not
+proceeded a mile before it stumbled, and was with difficulty kept
+from falling. A little farther on, after proceeding with evident
+difficulty, it fell, to rise no more, and died in a few hours of
+violent inflammation of the kidneys.
+
+However alarming these drawbacks may seem to people at a distance,
+they are only lightly considered in the colony. Fatalities are very
+rare among the flocks and herds, and many diseases which prevail in
+New South Wales are entirely unknown among us.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 30.
+
+THE RESOURCES OF THE COLONY: -- HORSES FOR INDIA -- WINE -- DRIED
+FRUITS -- COTTON -- COAL -- WOOL -- CORN -- WHALE-OIL -- A WHALE-
+HUNT -- CURED FISH -- SHIP TIMBER.
+
+The geographical position of Western Australia makes it one of the
+most desirable colonies of the British empire. The French would be
+delighted to possess so advantageous a station in that part of the
+world, whence they could sally forth and grievously annoy our
+shipping-trade. Vessels bound for China and the Eastern Islands pass
+within a few days' sail of the colony. For my part, I confess I
+should feel by no means sorry were we to fall into the hands of the
+French for a few years, as they would not hesitate to make such
+lasting improvements as would materially add to the importance of the
+settlement. It requires that Government should be made to feel the
+value of this colony as a naval station before it will rise into
+anything like consequence. The anchorage of Cockburn Sound, lying
+between Garden Island and the main land, presents a splendid harbour,
+where hundreds of ships of war might lie throughout all weathers in
+perfect safety. Enemy's cruisers passing along the coast cannot come
+within Garden Island from the south, and they would scarcely venture
+without a pilot from the north, except with a great deal of
+deliberation and caution, so that small vessels might readily slip
+away and avoid the danger; and numbers of ships might lie so close
+under Garden Island, that they never would be perceived by men-of-war
+reconnoitring the coast.
+
+There is no other colony in Australia so admirably situated with
+respect to other countries. The Cape of Good Hope is four or five
+weeks sail distant; Ceylon about twenty days; Calcutta, Sincapore,
+and Batavia are all within easy reach. In exporting live-stock, this
+is of vast importance; and in time of war a central position like
+this would afford an admirable place for vessels to repair to in
+order to refit. With the finest timber in the world for naval
+purposes in unlimited profusion; with a soil teeming with various
+metals; with harbours and dock-yards almost ready made by the hand of
+Nature, all things requisite for the wants of shipping may be
+obtained whenever a Government shall see fit to resort to them.
+
+It must doubtless surprise many that more has not been done in a
+colony possessing such natural advantages. The reason is, that the
+prejudices which have so long prevailed against this settlement have
+retarded the progress of immigration, and the small number of
+inhabitants has ever precluded the possibility of any great effort
+being made by the colony itself.
+
+Public opinion in England must turn in its favour before it can rise
+from obscurity into importance; but public opinion is never in favour
+of the poor and deserted. Time, however, will eventually develope
+those resources, which at present lie dormant for want of capital and
+opportunity.
+
+The proximity of this colony to India peculiarly marks it as the most
+advantageous spot for the breeding of horses for that market. From
+Van Dieman's Land or New South Wales, ships are generally about eight
+weeks in reaching an Indian port, and must proceed either by the
+north of New Holland, through the dangerous navigation of Torres
+Straits, or by the south and west, round Cape Lewin. Either route
+presents a long and rough passage, highly detrimental to stock, and
+of course increasing the cost of the horses exported. The voyage
+from Fremantle may be performed in half the time, and the animals
+will therefore arrive at their destination in much finer order, and
+with much less loss.
+
+It is well known that none of these colonies afford better or more
+extensive pasture-ground for horses and cattle than ours. Nothing is
+wanted but capital and population to produce a thriving traffic in
+horse-flesh between this settlement and India.
+
+There is every reason to believe that Western Australia will one day
+become a great wine country. Its vineyards are becoming more
+numerous and extensive every year, and the wine produced in them is
+of a quality to lead us to believe that when the art of preparing it
+is better understood, it will be found of very superior quality. It
+will, however, be a new kind of wine; and therefore, before it will
+be prized in Europe, prejudices in favour of older wines have to be
+overcome. Soil and climate combined, give to different wines their
+peculiar flavour. The vines which in Madeira produce the wine of
+that name, when brought to another country, even in a corresponding
+latitude, and planted in soil that chemically approaches as closely
+as possible to that which they have left, will produce a wine
+materially different from that called Madeira. So with the vines of
+Xeres and Oporto; of Teneriffe or Constantia. Different countries
+produce wines peculiar to themselves; and the wine of Western
+Australia will be found to be entirely sui generis. All that I
+have tasted, though made from the poorest of grapes, the common
+sweet-water, have one peculiarity; a good draught, instead of
+affecting the head or flushing the face, causes a most delightful
+glow to pervade the stomach; and it is of so comforting a nature,
+that the labourers in harvest prefer the home-made colonial wine to
+any other beverage. Every farm-settler is now adding a vineyard to
+his estate. The olive is also being extensively cultivated. In a
+few years' time, dried fruits will be exported in large quantities;
+but we almost fear that the colonists are giving too much of their
+attention to the cultivation of grapes and other fruits. In addition
+to exports, on a large scale, of wool, horses, timber, and metals,
+these articles of commerce are not undeserving of attention, but they
+should not be brought so prominently forward as to form the principal
+feature in the trade of the colony. Wine and fruit countries are
+always poor countries; let us think of substantials first, and of
+wine and fruit only by way of dessert.
+
+Cotton is a plant that grows extremely well in this colony, and might
+be cultivated on a large scale, and doubtless with great success.
+Mr. Hutt, the late governor, whose constant anxiety to promote the
+interests of the settlers in every way must long endear him to their
+memories, always appeared extremely sanguine as to the practicability
+of making this a great cotton country.
+
+But Western Australia contains, perhaps, greater internal wealth than
+that which appears on the surface. She abounds in iron, which must
+some day come into the Indian market; and as the metal lies close to
+the surface, it may be obtained without much expenditure of capital.
+There is no doubt, also, that she is equally rich in copper and
+platina, but capital is wanting at present to enable the settlers to
+work the mines. Soon, however, companies will be formed, and
+operations will be carried on rivalling those of South Australia.
+
+Extensive fields of excellent COAL have lately been discovered, and
+will prove the source of vast wealth to the colony. Steam-vessels in
+the Indian ocean will be supplied with coal from Western Australia;
+and the depots at Sincapore, Point-de-Galle, and perhaps at Aden,
+will afford a constant market for this valuable commodity.
+
+The staple export of the colony is, of course, at present wool. Our
+flocks, unfortunately, increase in a much greater ratio than the
+inhabitants, and thus the scarcity of labour becomes severely felt.
+A large flock becomes an evil, and men are burdened and impoverished
+by the very sources of wealth. The expense of maintaining becomes
+greater than the returns. The emigrants who are most sure of
+improving their condition in a colony, are those men who begin as
+shepherds, and having established a good character for themselves,
+undertake the care of a flock upon shares; that is, they receive a
+certain proportion -- a third, and sometimes even a half -- of the
+annual increase and wool, delivering the remainder to the owner at
+the seaport, ready packed for shipping. These men, of course, soon
+acquire a flock of their own, and then abandon the original employer
+to his old embarrassment, leaving him, (a resident probably in the
+capital, and already a prey to multitudinous distractions,) to find
+out a new shepherd on still more exorbitant terms. As large grants
+of land may be obtained by tenants for merely nominal rents, or in
+consideration of their erecting stock-yards or farm-buildings in the
+course of a term of years, there is every inducement to men of this
+class to become settlers.
+
+The houses in some districts are built of clay, or prepared earth,
+rammed down between boards, and thus forming solid walls of twelve or
+eighteen inches in thickness, that harden in a short time almost to
+the consistency of stone. The windows and doorways are cut out of
+the walls. These edifices are built at a very cheap rate; and when
+laths or battens are fixed inside of them, may be covered with
+plaister, and either whitewashed or painted.
+
+Besides the extensive sheep-runs of the colony, there is an unlimited
+extent of excellent corn-land. The crops in the Northam, Toodyay,
+and York districts -- though inferior to those of the midland
+counties of England, for want of manure, and a more careful system of
+husbandry -- are extremely fine; and there is land enough, if
+cultivated, to supply the whole of the southern hemisphere with grain.
+
+The sea on the western coast of New Holland still abounds with
+whales, although the Americans for many years made it one of their
+principal stations, and have consequently driven many of the animals
+away. The whale is a very suspicious and timid creature, and when it
+has been once chased it seldom returns to the same locality. The
+Americans tell us that Geographe Bay, about twenty years ago,
+abounded with whales at certain seasons. Many of them came there
+apparently to die, and the shore was covered with their carcases and
+bones. About the month of June, the whales proceed along the coast,
+going northward; and then visit the various bays and inlets as they
+pass, in pursuit of the shoals of small fish that precede them in
+their migration. They generally return towards the south about six
+weeks afterwards, and at these times the whale-fishery is eagerly
+pursued both by the Americans and the colonists. Bay-whaling is
+followed with various success at Fremantle, Bunbury, the Vasse,
+Augusta, and King George's Sound.
+
+At these times swarms of sharks of enormous dimensions infest the
+coast. At the Vasse, they were so numerous in 1845, that the men in
+the boats became quite cowed by their audacity. Were a whale killed
+in the evening, two-thirds of it would be eaten before morning by the
+sharks. The monsters (sometimes thirty feet in length) would follow
+the whale-boats, and strike against them with their snouts and fins;
+until the men were so intimidated that they even refused to go in
+pursuit of a whale which otherwise they might easily have captured.
+Mr. Robert Viveash, one of the principals at this station, told me,
+among other anecdotes, that one day, standing on the deck of a small
+schooner, watching the evolutions of an enormous shark, he saw it
+seize the rudder with its teeth in a kind of frenzy, or else in mere
+sport, and shake it so violently that the tiller, striking against
+some heavy object on deck, was actually broken in two pieces. It is
+a well-authenticated fact, that some years ago a shark, playing round
+a whaling vessel of upwards of 300 tons, whilst lying at anchor
+during a calm, got entangled in the buoy-rope of the anchor, and in
+its efforts to free itself actually tripped the anchor. The people
+on board, perceiving something extraordinary had happened, hove up
+the anchor, and brought the struggling shark to the surface. Having
+thrown a rope over its head and secured it by a running bowline knot
+under the pectoral fins, the fish was boused up to the fore-yard; and
+its length was so great, that when its nose touched the yard, its
+tail was still lashing the water.
+
+There is something highly exciting in the chase of the whale. I have
+watched the proceedings for hours from Arthur's Head, the high rock
+between Fremantle and the sea. A man stationed here on the look out,
+perceives a whale spouting about six miles off, between the main-land
+and the opposite islands. He immediately hoists a flag, and makes
+signals indicating the direction.
+
+The crews of six whale-boats, which have been lying ready on the
+beach, with their lines carefully coiled in a tub, and harpoon and
+lances all at hand, assemble like magic. The boats are launched, and
+pulling rapidly out of the bay, each with its own particular flag
+flying at the bows; the steersman leans forward, and gives additional
+force to the stroke-oar by the assistance of his weight and strength;
+the men pull strongly and well-together; the boats dance over the
+flashing waves, and silence and determination reign among the crews.
+The object is to meet the whale, and come down upon him in front;
+none but a lubber or a knave would cross his wake; for his eyes are
+so placed that he can see laterally and behind better than straight
+before him, and the moment he detects a boat in pursuit he begins to
+run. The lubber crosses his wake, because he has not steered so as
+to be able to avoid doing so; the knave, because either out of spite
+to his employer, or because he is bribed by an adverse company, is
+desirous that the fish should be lost. If the boats are a long
+distance astern when the whale begins to run, pursuit is useless, and
+the men return, hoping for better luck another time.
+
+The boats come round Arthur's Head almost together. The men, knowing
+that many hours of severe toil are probably before them, pull
+steadily, but not so as to exhaust themselves at the outset. At
+length one boat creeps out from the rest; the others gradually drop
+into line, and the distance between each widens perceptibly. The
+last boat, a heavy sailer, is half-a-mile astern of the first. From
+the boats, your eye wanders to the spot where the whale was last seen
+to blow. For some time you can discern nothing, and fancy he must be
+gone off to sea again. At last a thin white column of vapour is
+perceptible; the animal is carelessly sporting about, unconscious of
+danger. The first boat draws rapidly down upon him; it approaches
+nearer and nearer. The fish has disappeared, but his enemies seem to
+know the direction in which he is going, and are ready awaiting him
+when he returns to the surface. You now perceive him blowing close
+to the first boat, the steersman of which draws in the steer-oar and
+runs forward, whilst the men have all peaked their oars, and remain
+quiet in their seats. The steersman has seized the harpoon to which
+the long line of coiled rope is attached; in a moment he has plunged
+it into the animal's side. Starting at the stroke, away it darts;
+the line flies out of the tub over the bow of the boat; the men begin
+to pull, in order to ease the shock when the line is all run out; and
+now away they go, the whale drawing the boat after him at such speed
+that the water flies off from the bows in broad flakes.
+
+After running upwards of a mile, the fish dives down to the bottom;
+there he remains some minutes, until compelled to return to the
+surface for breath. His reappearance is heralded by a column of
+water spouted from his nostrils.
+
+Two of the boats are able to approach near enough to allow lances to
+be thrown at him, which, penetrating through the blubber, pierce his
+vitals, and cause him to run again as swiftly as before. Again he
+sinks, and again appears on the surface; the column which he now
+spouts forth is tinged with red. The boats again approach, the more
+lances are driven into his sides, but he is not yet subdued; he
+breaks away from the assassins, and tries once more to escape; but,
+alas! his strength and his life-blood are fast ebbing away; his
+breath begins to fail, and he cannot remain long beneath the surface.
+
+He comes up suddenly in the very midst of the boats, and, as he rolls
+from side to side, he strikes one of them with his fin, staving it in
+and making it a wreck upon the water. The drowning men are picked up
+by their companions, and the whale is again pursued. He is now in
+the death-flurry, spinning round and round, and lashing the sea into
+foam with his broad tail. He is still; and now the boats venture to
+come close up to the carcase, and fixing grapnels in it, with
+tow-lines attached, they form in a line, and commence towing their
+conquest to the shore, singing as they row, their measured paeans of
+victory.
+
+When the blubber is cut off and tryed out, it produces from three to
+ten tons of oil.
+
+Besides whales, there are immense quantities of fish upon this coast.
+The best kind are called tailors, and have a good deal of the
+mackerel flavour; and snappers, which somewhat resemble cod-fish.
+The mullets and whitings are better than those on the English coast,
+but every other fish is much inferior in flavour to those known in
+England. We have nothing to equal salmon, turbot, soles, cod, or
+mackerel; nevertheless, a snapper of twenty pounds weight is a very
+eatable fish.
+
+They are caught in great quantities, salted and exported to the
+Mauritius, where they are acknowledged to be superior to the fish
+imported from the Cape of Good Hope. Snapper-fishing is not bad
+sport, as they bite freely. They go in immense shoals, and it is not
+an uncommon thing to catch twenty-hundred weight at a single haul.
+When H.M.S. Challenger was lying in Cockburn Sound, some of the
+men with a very large seine-net, caught two thousand fish at a single
+haul -- averaging five pounds a-piece. This is almost incredible,
+but it is related on good authority.
+
+The fresh-water rivers have no fish but a small craw-fish, that
+buries itself in the ground when the bed of the stream is dry; and a
+flat-headed, tapering fish called a cobbler. This is about twelve
+inches long, and has a sharp, serrated bone an inch in length on each
+side of its head, that lies flat and perfectly concealed until an
+enemy approaches. This bone is hollow, like an adder's tooth, and
+contains a virulent poison, which is injected into the wound, and
+causes intense pain for several hours. Men are frequently stung by
+these wretches, whilst wading through the water.
+
+There are several valuable kinds of wood in this colony, which do not
+exist in South Australia or New South Wales. We may mention the
+sandalwood, which now finds a market in Ceylon, where it fetches
+about 22 pounds per ton; but if it were sent direct to China, (its
+ultimate destination,) it would obtain probably 35 pounds per ton.
+Sandal-wood is burnt in large quantities in China, as a kind of
+incense. There is another highly-fragrant wood peculiar to this
+colony, called by the settlers raspberry jam, from its resembling
+that sweet-meat in its scent. A small quantity sent to
+Tonbridge-Wells, was worked up into boxes, and highly approved of by
+the cabinet-makers, who gave it the name of violet wood.
+
+One of the most beautiful trees in the colony is called the
+peppermint-tree; its leaves, which are very abundant, resemble those
+of the willow, and, on being rubbed, smell strongly of peppermint.
+It bears a small yellow flower. These is much reason to believe that
+this is of the same species as the tree which yields the valuable
+Cajeput oil, and it is highly desirable that an endeavour should be
+made to distil this oil from the leaves.
+
+Many of the vegetable productions of Western Australia appear to
+correspond with those of Java and others of the Eastern Islands,
+modified by the difference of climate.
+
+The timber adapted to ship-building purposes, extends in vast
+quantities down the line of coast, and is of three kinds, all
+varieties of the eucalyptus. The tooart in the districts of
+Bunbury and the Vasse, and the blue-gum which abounds at Augusta
+and Nornalup, are woods of large size, and remarkably hard and
+close-grained in texture. It is well adapted for keel-pieces,
+stern-posts, capstan-heads, and heavy beams: and its fibres are so
+closely matted and interwoven together, that it is scarcely possible
+to split it. It grows in lengths of from 30 to 60 feet, and measures
+from 15 to 30 inches in diameter.
+
+But the wood most highly prized and most easily attainable is the
+Jarra, which grows upon the entire range of the Darling Hills,
+distant from sixteen to twenty miles from the coast, and extends over
+a country averaging at least twenty miles in breadth. It was for a
+long time erroneously called mahogany by the settlers, as it takes an
+excellent polish, and is extremely useful for cabinet purposes. A
+small quantity recently sent to England for the purpose of being
+worked up with furniture, has been thus reported upon: --
+
+"We have just inspected about two tons of wood brought to this town
+(Leeds) under the name of Swan River Mahogany. Some of the wood is
+firm and close in texture, with a very great abundance of cross
+mottle; -- in fact, it is quite crowded with figure. The colour is
+something like old Jamaica mahogany, and it bears a strong
+resemblance in some of its figures to the wood so celebrated by
+Messrs. Collard as Ocean Wood. We are quite firm in our opinion,
+that it is NOT mahogany, and do not know why it should be nicknamed.
+Why not call it by its proper name? -- for it has sufficiently strong
+claims to maintain its own independence.
+
+"J. Kendell and Co.
+"Cabinet Manufacturers, Leeds."
+
+Mr. Bond, of the firm of Gillows and Co., cabinet manufacturers, 176
+and 177 Oxford-street, London, to whom a small quantity was submitted,
+has also made an equally favourable report. Messrs. Chaloner and
+Fleming, of Liverpool, whose firm is one of the most extensive
+importers of timber in the empire, have reported that they "consider
+the specimens submitted to them to be of rich figure, and very fine
+quality, although the colour is rather dark. It is quite as fine in
+texture as the best Spanish mahogany, and takes the polish remarkably
+well."
+
+It is not, however, as cabinet wood that the Jarra is so highly
+valuable. It has been found to be some of the best ship-timber in
+the world. It is so extremely durable, that when it is cut in a
+healthy state, it is never found to rot, even though it be buried in
+the ground for years. For seventeen years it has been constantly
+used in the colony for a variety of purposes. As it resists the
+white-ant, an insect that destroys oak and every other kind of wood,
+and is never subject to the dry-rot, it is invaluable for building
+purposes. Boats constructed of it, which have been in the water
+during the whole of this period, and entirely unprotected by paint,
+are still as sound as they were when first launched.
+
+It resists the sea-worm; and our colonial vessels, when hove down for
+repairs or survey at Sincapore, Launceston, or other ports, have
+always excited the admiration of the surveyors, and have been
+pronounced not to require to be coppered. This wood is long in the
+grain, but very close and tough, and not only makes very good
+planking, but excellent beams, keel-pieces, and many other portions
+of a ship. Growing without a branch to the height of from fifty to
+one hundred feet, and from eighteen inches to three feet and upwards
+in diameter, it excites the admiration of all practical men; and as
+its properties have been so long tested, and are so generally
+admitted in the southern hemisphere, it is matter of no less surprise
+than regret that it should be still unknown in the English markets.
+Strong prejudice, and the interest of parties connected with the
+timber-trade in other countries, have served to keep the
+inexhaustible forests of Western Australia in the obscurity which has
+hung over them from primeval times. Besides this, although the Jarra
+wood exists not in other parts of Australia, and is confined to the
+Western coast alone, timber has been imported to England from New
+South Wales, and is very little prized there. Timber-merchants,
+therefore, who confound all the Australian colonies together, as most
+other people in England do, are willing to believe that the Jarra of
+Western Australia is the same as the Stringy-bark of New South Wales,
+and therefore worth little or nothing for ship-building purposes.
+The experience of seventeen years has proved the contrary. Not only
+have the valuable qualities of the Jarra been tested in vessels built
+in the colony, and employed in trading to the neighbouring ports; but
+men-of-war and merchant ships have been frequently repaired with it,
+and the wood so employed has always been highly esteemed when
+subsequently inspected abroad.
+
+In the autumn of 1845, the Halifax Packet, a barque of 400 tons,
+having parted from her anchor in a gale, and drifted ashore,
+underwent repairs at Fremantle, to the extent of about eleven hundred
+pounds. On being surveyed at the Port of London on her return home,
+the new timber, which had never been previously recognized at
+Lloyd's, though many efforts have been made to obtain that sanction,
+was allowed to remain in the ship as being perfectly serviceable.
+The following memorandum was addressed by the Surveyor of Lloyd's to
+A. Andrews, Esq., a gentleman interested in the welfare of the colony:
+
+"The wood used in the repairs of the Halifax Packet at Swan River,
+appears to answer the purpose very well. It is not found necessary
+to remove any part thereof.
+
+"From the samples which I have seen of Swan River timber, I am of
+opinion that it will form a very desirable and serviceable wood in
+ship-building; but this must be regarded as my private opinion, the
+Society of Lloyd's Register, to which I belong, not having as yet
+assigned any character to it in their rules.
+
+(Signed) "P. Courtney, Lloyd's Surveyor.
+"Lloyd's, 24th February, 1846."
+
+This extraordinary timber grows to a size that would appear
+incredible to readers in England. It is perhaps only manageable and
+remunerative from 40 to 60 feet; but in the southern districts of the
+colony -- especially to the back of Nornalup and Wilson's Inlet -- it
+is found growing to 120 and 150 feet in height, before the first
+branch appears. My brother and his servant, when exploring in that
+district, took refuge once from a storm in the hollow of an old Jarra
+tree, which not only sheltered themselves but their horses; and the
+interior actually measured in diameter three times the length of the
+largest horse, an animal sixteen hands high and very long backed.
+This may appear an astounding assertion, but the following is not
+less so. The same parties found a Jarra tree which had fallen
+completely across a broad and deep river (called the Deep River)
+running between high precipitous banks, thus forming a natural
+bridge, along which a bullock cart might have passed!
+
+Timber of such large dimensions is perfectly useless; but there are,
+of course, trees of every size, growing in boundless profusion.
+
+As Indian teak and African oak are now scarcely obtainable, we look
+upon our colony as a store-house for the British navy; and though we
+have hitherto vainly battled against prejudice and private interest
+to make this timber known to our rulers, the day will arrive when the
+wants of the naval service will compel men in authority to
+acknowledge the value of wood, which is most highly prized by all who
+have had the opportunity of testing its qualities.
+
+It is due to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to state, that
+on two occasions they have promised to receive a quantity of this
+timber, provided it were delivered at one of the royal dockyards, and
+to allow a fair price for it. But unfortunately, there is so great a
+scarcity of labour and of capital in the colony, that the settlers
+have shrunk from the outlay necessary to perform what would be, after
+all, only an experiment.
+
+It cannot be supposed, that timber which has been tested in every way
+for seventeen years, and is known throughout Australia to be
+indisputably FIRST-RATE for ship-building purposes, should be
+condemned at home as unserviceable. But the colonists know how many
+prejudices and interested feelings environ the Admiralty; and in
+general shrink from the experiment.
+
+
+
+CHAPTER 31.
+
+RISE AND FALL OF A SETTLEMENT. -- THE SEQUEL TO CAPTAIN GREY'S
+DISCOVERIES. -- A WORD AT PARTING.
+
+His Excellency the Governor having kindly invited me to be his
+companion on a journey which he proposed to make to the new
+settlement of Australind, about a hundred miles south of Perth, I set
+about making the necessary preparations. I borrowed a pair of
+saddle-bags, and having stuffed my traps into one side of them,
+loaded the other with a cold roast fowl, a boiled tongue, a pound of
+sausages, a loaf of bread, a flask of brandy, and sundry small
+packages of tea, sugar, cigars, etc.
+
+When I looked at the result of my labours, the swollen sides of the
+leathern receptacle, I enjoyed a noble feeling of independence; as
+though I were now prepared to ramble through the world, and stood in
+no need of friendly welcome, or the doubtful hospitality of an inn.
+
+Having breakfasted at five o'clock on a December morning (the middle
+of summer), and equipped myself in a broad-brimmed straw-hat and
+light shooting jacket, I mounted my steed, and sallied forth from my
+gate, followed by the sympathizing grins of Hannibal.
+
+His Excellency, true to the hour, was mounting his horse at the door
+of Government House -- and as the appearance of the whole turn-out
+was rather unlike anything usually seen in Hyde Park, or even
+connected with the morning drives of his Excellency the Viceroy of
+Ireland, I may as well describe it.
+
+The representative of our gracious Sovereign was habited in his bush
+costume -- a white hat, bare of beaver, having a green veil twisted
+round it, a light shooting coat and plaid trousers, shoes, and jean
+gaiters. His illustrious person was seated on a pair of broad
+saddle-bags, which went flap, flap against the sides of his charger,
+as he jogged steadily along at the usual travelling pace. On the
+pummel of his saddle was strapped a roll of blankets for the night
+bivouac, and to one of the straps was attached a tin-pannikin, which
+bumped incessantly against his horse's mane. Round the animal's neck
+was coiled a long tether-rope, which every now and then kept coming
+undone, and the caravan had to halt whilst it was being readjusted.
+
+Behind us rode his Excellency's man, no longer the smug gentleman in
+a black suit, with a visage as prim as his neck-cloth, but blazing in
+a red woollen shirt, and grinning incessantly with amazement at his
+own metamorphosis. Strapped to his waist by a broad belt of leather,
+was a large tin-kettle, for the purpose of making his Excellency's
+tea in the evening. Huge saddle-bags contained provisions, knives
+and forks, plates, and everything necessary for travelling in the
+Bush in a style of princely magnificence. No scheik or emir among
+the Arabs wanders about the desert half so sumptuously provided. I
+could not help laughing (in my sleeve, of course,) at the figure
+produced by the tout ensemble of John mounted on his ewe-necked and
+pot-bellied steed.
+
+In excellent spirits we jogged along to the Canning, and then eleven
+miles farther, to a muddy pool called Boregarup, where we baited the
+horses, and lunched on one of his Excellency's cold meat-pies. The
+water in the pool was not very tempting, but we ladled a little out
+in our pannikins, and mixing it with brandy, managed to drink it.
+The want of water makes travelling in the bush during summer a
+serious business. Frequently you find a well, on which your thoughts
+and hopes have been fixed for the last twenty miles, completely dried
+up; and you have to endure thirst as well as you can for some hours
+longer. Sometimes by scraping the bottom of the well, and digging
+down with your pannikin, you come to a little moisture, and after
+waiting an hour, succeed in obtaining about half-a-pint of yellow
+fluid, compounded of mud and water. This you strain through as many
+pocket-handkerchiefs as you can command, and are at last enabled to
+moisten your baked lips.
+
+On these occasions the traveller cares less about himself than his
+horse, and often have we served the latter out of our pannikin from
+holes into which he could not get his nose, whilst denying ourselves
+more than a little sip.
+
+After lying an hour on our blankets in the hot shade, smoking a
+cigar, and waging incessant war with myriads of mosquitoes and
+sand-flies, we decided that it was impossible to continue any longer
+so unequal a conflict; and saddling our horses in haste, we beat a
+quick retreat, and felt much cooler and more comfortable whilst in
+motion. In the course of the afternoon we passed through a vast dry
+swamp many miles long. The reeds on each side of the track
+frequently reached to our heads, and prevented our seeing any thing
+else on either side of us; and when we did get a glimpse over the
+rushes level with our eyes, we could behold nothing but an immense
+plain of waving green, like a huge field of unripe wheat, edged in
+the distance by the stern outline of the ever-sombre forest of
+eucalyptus trees. This swamp is a terrible place to pass through in
+winter. It is nevertheless one of the royal post-roads of the
+colony; and the bearer of her Majesty's mail from Pinjarra to Perth,
+is frequently obliged to swim for his life, with the letter-bag
+towing astern, like a jolly-boat behind a Newcastle collier.
+
+After emerging from the swamp, we passed through an extensive plain,
+covered with coarse scrub and thinly-scattered grass, and lined with
+forest trees and clumps of black-boys. When about half-way down it,
+we came upon a herd of wild cattle grazing at some two hundred yards'
+distance from the path. They seemed very much astonished at the
+appearance of three such picturesque individuals; and after gazing
+for a few moments, lost in wonder, they tossed up their heads, and
+trotted along-side of us, keeping their original distance. Having
+kept us company for about half-a-mile, they relieved us of their
+society, (which was not very agreeable, as we had no firearms) by
+coming to a halt, and allowing us to proceed in peace, whilst they
+contented themselves with brandishing their horns and tails, and
+butting against one another in play.
+
+That night we slept at the Dandalup, hospitably entertained by F.
+Corbet Singleton, Esq., M.C., the owner of a fine estate of twelve
+thousand acres, a good deal of it alluvial soil. Were the population
+such as it ought to be in this fine country; and the markets
+proportioned to the capabilities of the soil, nothing would be more
+agreeable than to live on a beautiful property like this, cultivating
+your corn lands and multiplying your flocks and herds. But as it is,
+unfortunately, a man is soon overdone with his own wealth. He has
+more corn than he can find a market for; more cattle than he can
+sell; and he is obliged to allow his land to run waste, and his herds
+to run wild, rather than be at the expense of farming on a great
+scale without adequate remuneration.
+
+Let me advise emigrants to these colonies to turn their attention
+chiefly to the breeding of sheep and horses, which are saleable
+things in foreign markets. The growers of wool, and the breeders of
+horses for India will make their estates profitable; but large herds
+of cattle will produce nothing to the owner in a thinly-populated
+country.
+
+The next day, after inspecting the farm, we proceeded with our host
+to Mandurah, crossing an estuary a quarter of a mile broad, but so
+shallow that the water did not reach above our saddle-flaps. And now
+(having parted from Singleton) we had to swim our horses across the
+mouth of the Murray River. After a little delay, a boat was found;
+with a couple of men to row it across, and removing the saddles and
+other things from the horses' backs, we prepared for the passage.
+His Excellency's Arab mare was destined to make the experimental
+trip, and the Governor, with many injunctions and misgivings,
+committed the end of the tether-rope to the hand of his servant, who
+belayed it to the stern of the boat, where he seated himself, to act
+as occasion should require. The boatman rowed till the tether-rope
+was out at full stretch; his Excellency coaxed and entreated the mare
+to enter the water, and "shoo-ed!" and "shaa-ed!" and called her a
+stupid creature, whilst I cracked my whip and jumped about, and
+rattled my hat, and made as much noise as people usually do on such
+occasions. The mare, on her part, reared up, and flung herself back,
+and plunged about, and showed so strong a determination not to go
+down the broken bank, that we feared we should never get her into the
+river. At last, however, we managed to back her into the water, when
+she was dragged instantly out of her depth and obliged to swim. The
+men pulled so fast that she could not keep up with them, and giving
+up the attempt, floated quietly on her side, to the great horror of
+her master, who thought he never should bestride her again, until he
+was relieved by seeing her start to her feet in shallow water, and
+scramble up the bank, dripping like a veritable hippopotamus.
+
+The other horses behaved better; and when we had ourselves crossed
+and remounted, we rode by the side of the river, or rather estuary, a
+distance of ten miles, till we came to a picturesque little spot
+called Mocha weir -- a high bank, a clump of trees, a brawling brook,
+(unusual sight in this country,) and a patch of excellent grass.
+
+Here we resolved to halt for the night. Each rider attended to his
+own horse, which, however, did not get much grooming, and then we
+prepared for the great business of life, and kindled a fire, filled
+the kettle with limpid water, drew out our various stocks of
+provisions, and arranged the dinner-table on the grass, and made
+every thing look exceedingly comfortable and inviting. Then we made
+tea, and invited each other to eat, and did eat without invitation;
+and joked and laughed, and felt considerably more happy and sociable
+than if vice-royalty had been real-royalty, and the green canopy of
+the trees were the banqueting-hall at Windsor Castle. The man
+munched his victuals at a small private bivouac of his own, within
+easy call, as he had to jump up every now and then, and bring the
+kettle, or wash the plates for the second and third courses. When
+the things were removed, we lighted cigars, and pleasantly
+discoursed, recumbent before the fire. Our beds were already made of
+black-boy tops, and, therefore we had nothing to do but await the
+hour of rest. The sun had disappeared, and darkness, closing around
+us, drew nigher and more nigh every moment, swallowing up object
+after object in its stealthy advance, and seeming about to overwhelm
+us in its mysterious obscurity. But John heaped logs of dry wood
+upon the fire, and nobly we resisted all the powers of Darkness. In
+the midst of that black solitude, our little circle of light
+maintained its independence, nor yielded to the invasion which had
+swallowed up all around it. Here was our Camp of Refuge, and here we
+felt snug, and secure, and at home; whilst all without our magic
+circle was comfortless and desolate.
+
+Sometimes the active-minded John would dive, without apparent dismay,
+into the black and hostile-looking regions of Night, which seemed to
+close upon him as though for ever; and when we had resignedly given
+him up, a prey to the evil spirits that prowled around, he would
+reappear with startling suddenness, issuing forth into the light like
+some red demon of the woods, and bearing a huge log upon his shoulder
+-- the spoils of his "foray-sack" -- which he would fling down upon
+the fire, making it blaze up with sudden fierceness, and extending
+the circle of light for a few moments to a greater distance around,
+so as to give us a transient glimpse of things which were soon
+swallowed up again in darkness -- like glimpses of the dead in dreams.
+
+I must hurry on to Australind, merely mentioning that we passed two
+lakes not far from each other, one of which was fresh, and the other
+salt -- salt as the Dead Sea. It is usual in this perverse country
+(though not so in this instance) to find a salt lake surrounded with
+good, and a fresh-water lake with bad land. Here it was bad
+altogether. The country, however, improved greatly as we drew
+towards Australind; and about ten miles from that place, we came upon
+a fine flock of sheep that seemed to be doing extremely well.
+
+We now passed along the banks of the Leschenault estuary, on which
+Australind is situated; and soon we discovered three figures
+approaching on horseback. These proved to be M. Waller Clifton,
+Esq., the chief Commissioner of the Western Australian Company, to
+whom the whole district belongs, attended by a brace of his surveyors
+as aides-de-camp -- one mounted on a very tall horse, and the other
+on a very small pony. The Chief Commissioner himself bestrode a
+meek-looking cart-horse, which, on perceiving us in the distance, he
+urged into an exhilarating trot. His Excellency, seeing these
+demonstrations of an imposing reception, hastily drew forth his black
+silk neck-cloth from his pocket, and re-enveloped his throat
+therewith, which, during the heat of the day, he had allowed to be
+carelessly exposed. Gathering himself up in his saddle, and assuming
+the gravity proper to the representative of his sovereign, he awaited
+with as much dignity as his state of perspiration would allow, the
+approach of the Chief of Australind. As for myself, I plucked up my
+shirt-collar, and tried to look as spicy as possible.
+
+The first greetings over, the two chieftains rode into the town side
+by side, as amicably as Napoleon and Alexander of Russia; whilst I
+fell to the share of the aides, and related the most recent news of
+Perth, and the last bon mots of Richard Nash, for their
+entertainment; receiving in return an account of the arrival of 400
+male and female emigrants at the settlement the day before.
+
+We were entertained, as every guest invariably is, right hospitably
+by Mr. Clifton and his amiable family.
+
+Australind was then (December 1842) a promising new town. It was
+alive with well-dressed young men and women, who were promenading
+under the large forest trees which still occupied the intended
+squares and most of the streets. They had only landed from the
+vessel which had brought them some twenty-four hours before, and they
+were evidently variously affected by all they saw. Some appeared to
+be struck with the strange circumstance of trees growing in the
+streets; some looked aghast at the wooden houses and canvass tents;
+one thought everything looked exceedingly green; another fancied that
+a town built upon sand could not possibly endure long. And he was
+right: for the town has long since been deserted, except by half a
+dozen families; and the newly arrived settlers are dispersed over the
+colony. This has not been the fault of the Chief Commissioner, nor
+is it owing to any inferiority in the soil, but to causes which I
+intend briefly to explain, as there are many people in England who
+are, or were, interested in the fortunes of this promising young
+settlement.
+
+The Western Australian Company's grant of land at Australind
+comprises 100,000 acres, among which there is a large quantity of
+excellent pasture and arable land. It is well watered, and generally
+well adapted for the site of a new settlement. The flats of the
+Brunswick and Collic rivers would supply the whole colony, if
+thoroughly peopled, with grain; and there is abundance of feed for
+sheep and cattle, even to the summits of the hills.
+
+A great portion of this grant has been purchased by the Company from
+Colonel Lautour, who, however, could not furnish a good title to it.
+Having never performed the necessary improvements which would entitle
+him to a deed of grant in fee-simple from the crown, his right of
+possession became forfeit; and in April, 1840, Governor Hutt, though
+much interested in the success of the Company, of which his brother,
+the member for Gateshead, was chairman, thought himself obliged, in
+the conscientious discharge of his duty, to resume the estate for the
+crown.
+
+This proved to be a most fatal proceeding. The Company's title to
+Colonel Lautour's grant had been confirmed by the Home-government in
+November 1839, but owing to the non-existence of regular post-office
+communication (that grand and inexcusable error, which allows the
+British Empire to be composed of a mass of unconnected settlements,
+dependent upon chance for intelligence and aid from the mother
+country), the news did not reach the colony until May or June
+following.
+
+Accounts of the resumption of the grant by the Governor reached
+England, and not only perplexed the Company, but greatly disquieted
+the minds of the numerous individuals to whom they had sold land, to
+the value of nearly 60,000 pounds. At this very time, too, unhappily,
+arrived Captain Grey in England, on his return from the expedition to
+the north-western side of New Holland, of which he has since
+published a clever and popular narrative. Captain Grey took an early
+opportunity of giving a somewhat lamentable account of the Company's
+land at Leschenault, or Australind, and a very glowing description of
+a district, many miles to the north of Perth, between Gantheaume Bay
+and the Arrowsmith River, which he had passed through on his
+disastrous return. He also expatiated, in most precise terms, upon a
+splendid harbour which he called Port Grey, and of which he made an
+elaborate sketch; and on the 26th of October, 1840, addressed to Lord
+John Russell "a detailed description of that portion of the western
+coast of Australia which lies between Gantheaume Bay and the River
+Arrowsmith, as it would be found useful in enabling persons,
+intending to occupy that tract of country, to arrive at correct
+conclusions regarding its capabilities." In the map of his route,
+published by Arrowsmith, Port Grey is laid down as a spacious,
+well-sheltered harbour, with a convenient point of land extending a
+couple of miles out to sea from its northern extremity, and having a
+useful reef of rocks projecting, most happily, to the same distance,
+affording altogether a secure shelter for shipping in seven fathoms'
+water.
+
+The Directors of the Western Australian Company, alarmed at the
+account related of Australind, perplexed by the proceedings of the
+local Government, and captivated by the description of Port Grey,
+with its splendid districts of "rich flats," and "fertile downs,"
+determined to change the site of their settlement.
+
+Captain Grey describes two "flat-topped ranges," in the neighbourhood
+of this port, lying about twenty miles apart; and in his diary of
+"Sunday, April 7, 1839," he says: "The country between these two
+ranges was an open grassy valley thinly wooded; and IT APPEARED TO BE
+ONE OF THE MOST EXTENSIVELY FERTILE portions of country which I had
+yet seen in Australia. After travelling for another mile over the
+sandy downs, we reached another romantic glen-like valley, bounded to
+the north and south by steep limestone cliffs; we descended these
+cliffs, and at their base found as in the last valley we had crossed,
+EXTENSIVE FLATS, through which wound a water-course. All the hills
+I could see in the vicinity consisted of limestone, and for the
+whole distance I could see to the eastward (about seven or
+eight miles) the country appeared to be of the MOST FERTILE and
+picturesque character; the hills were slightly wooded with large
+timber, and the valleys were nearly bare of trees and COVERED WITH
+GRASS. On ascending the limestone hills to the south of the valley,
+we found ourselves once more in open sandy downs; after travelling
+three miles across these in a S. by E. direction, we again came to a
+valley of the same character as the one above described; it ran from
+the same direction; to the eastward we saw a fertile valley. * * *
+We halted for some time immediately at the foot of Mount Fairfax.
+
+"We continued our route in the evening over the sandy downs, which,
+at the distance of half a mile from the sea, terminated in cliffs.
+* * * After travelling three miles, we halted for the night.
+
+"Monday 8th. The first three miles of our route lay over sandy
+downs, when we found ourselves in grassy, wooded plains, lying
+between the flat-topped range, and some dunes which bordered a bay,"
+etc.
+
+It is well known that people in the latter stages of starvation have
+constantly visions before their eyes of sumptuous entertainments,
+rich meats, and delicious wines. Captain Grey, who was then walking
+for his life, at a Barclay pace, with a very empty stomach, was
+probably labouring under a similar hallucination with respect to the
+country over which he passed; beholding flowery meads and fertile
+vales in districts which we fear would prove little attractive to a
+settler. He beheld fine flowing rivers and sheltered bays, which
+have since altogether disappeared, like the scenes beheld on misty
+mornings by Sicilian mariners.
+
+His account of the country determined the Western Australian Company
+to change the site of their intended settlement. Calling together
+the purchasers of land at Australind, the Directors offered to return
+them the amount of their respective purchases, or allow them to take
+up new allotments in the very superior district of Port Grey. Almost
+all chose to reclaim their cash, and declined further speculation.
+
+The Company now, towards the close of 1840, sent out Mr. Clifton,
+their "Chief Commissioner," with directions to remove the whole of
+their establishment then settled at Australind, to the new settlement
+of Port Grey. On arriving at Australind, Mr. Clifton was agreeably
+surprised to find the country much superior to what he had expected,
+after hearing Captain Grey's account of it. So differently do the
+same objects appear to different eyes! And perhaps Captain Grey had
+only viewed the sandy banks of the inlet, without having passed into
+the interior, and seen the flats of the Brunswick, etc. There is a
+very great deal more of worthless than of good land at Australind,
+which is the case throughout the whole of New Holland, in the very
+best districts. The general character throughout all the settled
+parts of the island, or continent, is bad, with scattered patches of
+good.
+
+The Chief Commissioner, however, prepared to carry out his
+instructions, though with much regret, as he doubted greatly whether
+the proposed alteration would prove for the better. These
+preparations were put a stop to by a communication from his
+Excellency the Governor, informing him that the Government schooner
+had recently returned from a survey of the coast and district of the
+so-called Port Grey, and that no sufficient harbour could be
+discovered along the coast; whilst the country in every direction
+appeared barren and incapable of cultivation. Mr. Clifton therefore
+remained at Australind with his party, and used every effort and
+exerted every energy to found a flourishing colony. But
+unfortunately, the change of site to Port Grey, and then the return
+to Australind, and the various conflicting accounts promulgated by
+the Company themselves, now lauding and now condemning the two places
+in turn, operated so unfavourably upon the public mind that no more
+sales of land could be effected. It became, therefore, inexpedient to
+maintain the expensive establishment of Commissioners, Secretaries,
+and Surveyors at Australind, who were accordingly conge'd without
+much ceremony; and the Western Australian Company, like the
+"unsubstantial pageant," or Port Grey itself, "melted into air, thin
+air," leaving "not a rack behind." Yet not exactly so, for it has
+left behind, like some stranded wreck by the receding tide, a most
+worthy and high-minded family who deserved a brighter fate.
+
+Such has been the lamentable result of Captain Grey's discoveries in
+Western Australia; for whether there be or not a good tract of land
+in the neighbourhood of Champion Bay, Captain Grey's denunciation of
+Australind, and his strongly urged advice to the Company to change
+the site of their settlement, have undoubtedly been the chief causes
+of their failure.
+
+Three expeditions have been sent to the scene of this Australian
+Fata Morgana, in the hope of beholding it again, but like the door
+of the fairy palace in the rock, it is visible only to Prince Ahmed;
+and unless the Governor of New Zealand will himself found a colony
+there, it is most likely ever to remain desert and valueless. The
+first expedition was that in the Government schooner, in 1840,
+already alluded to; the second was made in 1841, by H.M.S. Beagle,
+Captain Stokes, accompanied by the Chief Commissioner, Mr. Clifton.
+A careful survey was made of the coast as far north as the spot were
+Captain Grey was wrecked, and began his march southward, but nothing
+was discovered at all resembling the description given of Port Grey.
+The only bay in which a ship could lie, and that with very doubtful
+security, was Champion Bay; but unfortunately the country in every
+direction from this spot is most barren and miserable. Captain Grey
+travelled close along the coast-line, according to his journal, but
+those who have gone in search of his "fertile valleys" have
+penetrated some distance into the interior, without discovering
+anything but scrub and desert.
+
+Captain Stokes, in his published "Letter to the Surveyor General of
+Western Australia," detailing his proceedings, mentions having "now
+seen and examined an extent of country little short of forty miles,
+nearly the whole of which deserved the character of sterility." In
+another place, he related the discovery of "the only piece of grass
+of a useful nature seen in this route; it was, however, quite
+parched, and occupied a space of three or four acres."
+
+Not being able to find any tolerable shelter along the coast besides
+Champion Bay, he concludes that it must be the spot designated as
+Port Grey; and after exploring the country behind it, with the effect
+just stated, he sailed away one morning towards the north-west and
+meeting with a "favourable westerly wind," by afternoon was carried
+"past the bight south of Point Moore, sufficiently near to see that
+its shores were fronted with many sunken rocks." This also led to
+the conclusion that "Champion Bay is the port Captain Grey speaks of
+in his journal, placed in Arrowsmith's chart twelve miles south of
+its true position."
+
+Since the date of Captain Stokes's survey, Captain Grey has himself
+virtually admitted Champion Bay to be the locality visited by him.
+In a letter to that officer dated, "Government House, Adelaide,
+January 28, 1842," and published in the South Australian journals,
+Captain Grey observes, "I have attentively read your letter to the
+Hon. the Surveyor-General of Western Australia; and have also
+considered the observations made by you to me, relative to the error
+you suppose I have fallen into in mistaking the Wizard Peak of
+Captain King for the hill named by him Mount Fairfax, and I find I
+have certainly fallen into this error -- a by no means unlikely one,
+considering the very similar character of the singular group of hills
+called Moresby's Flat-topped Range, and the circumstances under which
+I was journeying."
+
+The hill, therefore, at whose foot Captain Grey halted on the
+afternoon of April 7, 1839, was not Mount Fairfax, but the Wizard
+Peak, or some other hill "to the north of Mount Fairfax." From
+thence the "sandy downs," (mentioned in the extract from his Journal
+that I have given above) over which he passed in the evening
+continued to within "half a mile of the sea," where "they terminated
+in cliffs." To have seen all this he must have been walking at no
+very great distance from the shore during that day's marsh. His
+object was to reach Perth as quickly as possible; and he steered in
+the most direct course -- "south by east." We know, therefore,
+exactly the line of country traversed by Captain Grey -- the
+"singular group called Moresby's Flat-topped Range" being
+unmistakeable.
+
+In December, 1844, H. M. colonial schooner, Champion, under the
+command of Lieutenant Helpman, R.N., accompanied by Mr. J. Harrison,
+Civil Engineer, etc., was again despatched by Governor Hutt to make
+further observations in the neighbourhood of Gantheaume Bay.
+Lieutenant Helpman says in his report, "I coasted close in from
+Champion Bay, collecting angles and soundings until in latitude 28
+degrees 10' 30", S. the low ridges of sand along the shore induced me
+to land, being then (as I concluded from the latitude given by
+Captain Grey) in the immediate vicinity of the estuary." This
+estuary is described by Captain Grey in his diary of the FIFTH April,
+who states that "for one mile we continued along THE RICH FLATS which
+bordered the estuary" ... "we ascended the limestone range, and got
+a view of the country to the eastward and found it STILL GRASSY, and
+exactly the same character as far as we could see. For the next five
+miles we continued along the top of the limestone range, the estuary
+still occupying the valley which lay to the west of us." ... "At
+the end of a mile in a south by east direction, we found ourselves on
+the banks of a river, the Hutt, from forty to fifty yards wide, which
+was running strong, and was brackish at its mouth," etc. Such was
+the appearance of the estuary and of the Hutt River in the eyes of
+Captain Grey.
+
+Lieutenant Helpman continues his report as follows: --
+
+"On reaching the summit of the highest coast hill I found myself
+abreast of the centre of the inlet, which was void of water, but
+presented the appearance of a continuous sheet of salt as far as the
+eye could reach. Passing over the coast ridges, I came down, in
+about half a mile, to the edge of the estuary, and followed it in a
+southerly direction for about two miles, when I ascended another
+hill, from which I could clearly see the south end of it, which was
+covered with the same description of incrustration of salt.
+
+"A gorge at the south-east corner of the estuary is probably where
+the Hutt River discharges itself during the rainy season, but there
+was no appearance of water in any part of the flat, which was about
+two miles wide between the hills and the south-east shore of the
+inlet.
+
+"Observing that the north extremity of the estuary, as seen from the
+hill just referred to, presented some slight appearance of water, I
+was induced to examine it, and found the sand ridges on the coast
+extremely low, nearly destitute of herbage, but giving the idea of
+having had water passing over them. This I judged to be the case,
+from a few blades of very coarse grass which were laid flat on the
+ground, as if from the effects of running water.
+
+"From the highest point of these ridges, notwithstanding the smoke
+from the numerous native fires, the whole north end of the inlet was
+plainly seen to be covered with salty incrustations, similar to those
+previously referred to.
+
+"I conceive the point of land near which these latter observations
+were made, and where I landed the second time, to be Shoal Point of
+the chart; but, except that it is very low, I see no cause for its
+name, as the water was deep close to it, and having only a few rocks
+close off its extreme west point, within a quarter of a mile of the
+shore.
+
+"Following close in from Shoal Point, the coast is perfectly clear of
+dangers; but I observed no opening in the hills indicative of a
+river, nor could I discover any bay or place of shelter for shipping
+to resort to.
+
+"Red Point, which is the western entrance of Gantheaume Bay, is a
+very bold headland of considerable elevation, it is circular, and
+about four miles in extent. I landed at the east end of the red sand
+cliffs, taking a specimen of the rock.
+
+"The land to the northward from this promontory is of a white sandy
+appearance, having ridges of sand hills along the coast of moderate
+altitude.
+
+"The low state of the barometer, and the strong northerly winds,
+induced me to keep the vessel at a considerable offing. During the
+day the breezes were very fresh, and had it not been for the
+whale-boat with which I was furnished, I should not have been able to
+have effected a landing on any part of the coast which came under my
+observation. Under these circumstances, I was compelled most
+reluctantly to abandon the idea of spending much time in examining
+the interior.
+
+"The VERY DRY STATE OF THE HUTT AT THIS SEASON seems to indicate that
+but little water flows into it at any time; and I am disposed to
+fancy, that the lagoon, or estuary, owes its formation to the
+breaking in of the sea over the low sand hills during the tempestuous
+gales of the winter months, more especially towards the north end of
+the inlet, where the sand ridges are lower than in any other part of
+the coast in that vicinity."
+
+Thus the luxuriant country of Captain Grey, like the water-pools seen
+in the mirage of the desert, when approached, vanishes from the view
+of the traveller.
+
+It is to be observed, that Captain Stokes and Lieutenant Helpman
+surveyed these districts in the early part of the summer season --
+November and December -- when they were more likely to appear fertile
+than on the 5th and 7th April, quite at the end of that season, and
+just before the commencement of the winter rains.
+
+Since the above passages were written, I have read an account in the
+Perth journals of January, 1847, of the discovery of coal by the
+Messrs. Gregory, about forty miles east of Champion Bay. These
+gentlemen relate, that in journeying towards the coast, they passed
+through a tract of country capable of being settled. This may
+possibly be Captain Grey's luxuriant district; and yet the district
+which he describes was close upon the coast. It is also stated, that
+there is now ascertained to be a corner of Champion Bay in which
+small vessels may find a safe anchorage; and this is conjectured to
+be that Port Grey whose existence has been so long denied. But,
+although a few miles of country may be found in this neighbourhood
+capable of supporting a limited number of flocks and herds, it is
+certain that there is no such district here as would suffice for the
+purposes of a colony of the magnitude contemplated by the Western
+Australian Company. The advice, therefore, given them to change the
+site of the operations from Australind, or Leschenault, to Champion
+Bay, or Port Grey, was the most pernicious that could have been
+bestowed.
+
+But it may certainly be doubted whether the principles on which the
+settlement of Australind was founded were in themselves of a sound
+and permanent nature. They were those propounded originally by Mr.
+Edward Gibbon Wakefield, and applied with extraordinary success to
+the formation and to the circumstances of the colony of South
+Australia. The most prominent features which they present are, --
+the concentration of population, and the high price of land.
+
+The land in the immediate neighbourhood of Adelaide is very fine, and
+capable of supporting a dense population; it was therefore perhaps,
+good policy to divide it into eight-acre sections, valued at one
+pound per acre, which supported a body of agriculturalists, who found
+a ready and near market for their productions in the rapidly rising
+town. But there are few theories that will bear universal
+application; and the mistake made in the case of Australind was, in
+expecting to obtain the same result from principles which were to be
+applied under very different circumstances.
+
+The land adjoining the town-site of Australind is generally very
+indifferent, though the flats of the Brunswick and Collie Rivers
+afford perhaps some thousand acres of excellent land, but still not
+sufficient to maintain a large and dense population.  The Company's
+property was divided into farms of 100 acres, and these were valued
+at 100 pounds each to the emigrants, who drew lots for the choice of
+site.
+
+When the settlers arrived and took possession of their respective
+grants, they soon discovered that if they all produced wheat, there
+would certainly be plenty of food in the settlement, but very little
+sale for it; whereas, if they intended to become sheep-farmers, and
+produce wool for the English market, one hundred acres of land would
+not suffice in that country for the keep of fifty sheep. The
+sections of one hundred acres were, therefore, far too small for the
+wants of the settler, who found that, although he might probably be
+able to supply his table with vegetables, he had but small prospect
+of ever applying his capers to boiled mutton, or initiating his
+family into the mysteries of beef a la mode. Disgusted with the
+narrowness of his prospects, and recoiling from the idea of a
+vegetable diet, the sturdy settler quickly abandoned the limited
+sections of Australind, and wandered away in search of a grant of
+some three or four thousand acres, on which he might reasonably hope
+to pasture a flock of sheep that would return him good interest for
+the capital invested.
+
+The Western Australian Company gave far too much for their land in
+the first instance, and were therefore compelled to set a much higher
+value upon it than it would bear. The ministers of the Crown, who
+have adopted the principles of Mr. Gibbon Wakefield, require one
+pound per acre for waste lands; and the Company, though they
+purchased their property from private individuals at a somewhat lower
+rate, expected to sell it again at the same price. There is very
+little land (in proportion to the vast extent of poor and of entirely
+worthless land) throughout the length and breadth of all New Holland,
+that is worth twenty shillings an acre. In the more densely
+populated parts, arable land is worth that sum, and often much more;
+but in the pastoral districts, three shillings an acre is in truth a
+high price.
+
+It has long been acknowledged in New South Wales, as well as in other
+parts of Australia, that it takes from three to five acres to support
+a single sheep throughout the year. An ewe-sheep is worth about nine
+shillings; and if you have to buy three and a half acres of land, at
+three shillings, to keep her upon, the amount of capital you invest
+will be nineteen shillings and sixpence. The profits on the wool of
+this sheep, after paying all expenses of keep, shearing, freight,
+commission, etc., will be barely two-pence, or about one per cent
+upon the capital invested. But then you have her lamb? True, but
+you must buy an additional quantity of land to keep it upon. Still
+there is a gain upon the increase; and in process of time the annual
+profits amount up to ten and even twenty per cent.  But suppose the
+three and a half acres of land, instead of 10 shillings and 6 pence
+had cost 3 pounds 10 shillings and 6 pence, it would then be
+perfectly absurd to think of investing money in sheep.
+
+The course pursued by the home Government, in fixing the uniform
+extravagant price of twenty shillings an acre upon the pastoral lands
+of Australia, is probably more the result of ignorance of their real
+value than of a desire to check or prevent emigration to that
+country. It is an ignorance, however, that refuses to be
+enlightened, and has therefore all the guilt of deliberate injury.
+
+The monstrous demand of twenty shillings an acre for crown-lands, has
+not only had the effect of deterring capitalists from embarking in so
+hopeless a speculation, but has grievously wronged the existing
+land-owners, by raising the price of labour. When land was sold at
+five shillings an acre, a fund was accumulated in the hand of the
+local Government that served to pay for the introduction of labouring
+emigrants. That fund has ceased to exist in New South Wales and in
+Western Australia. The value of labour has therefore risen, whilst
+the value of agricultural produce, by the increase of the supply
+beyond the demand, has grievously diminished. The advocates of the
+Wakefield system triumphantly inform us that there never can be a
+labour-fund in any colony in which private individuals are able to
+sell land at a cheaper rate than the Government.
+
+They point to South Australia, and bid us note how different is the
+state of things there, where land universally is worth a pound an
+acre or more. But to us it appears, that the character of the soil
+is much the same throughout these countries -- if anything, being
+superior in Western Australia, where there are no droughts, and where
+the wool produced, though the worst got up, from the want of labour,
+is stated by the London brokers to be pre-eminent in quality -- that
+colony would most naturally be sought by the emigrant in which the
+price of land is the most reasonable. It is not the high price of
+land that has caused the prosperity of South Australia.
+Every one who is well informed on the subject, is perfectly aware,
+that in 1841 and 1842, before the discovery of copper-mines, South
+Australia was universally in a state of bankruptcy. Never was a
+country so thoroughly smitten with ruin. Almost all the original
+settlers sank in the general prostration of the settlement, and
+never again held up their heads. The inhabitants slunk away from
+the colony in numbers; and property even in Adelaide was almost
+worthless. The holders of the eighty-acre sections produced far
+more of the necessaries of life than the non-producing population
+required; and the neighbouring colonies were deluged with the
+farm-produce of the bankrupt agriculturalists of South Australia.
+This model colony afforded itself the most signal refutation of the
+truth of the Wakefield theories; and the whole world would have been
+compelled to acknowledge the falsehood, but for the opportune
+discovery of the mineral wealth of the colony. It is to its mines
+that South Australia owes its good fortune, its population, and its
+riches, and not to any secret of political economy bestowed upon it
+by adventurous theorists. According to the opinion of these
+philosophers, New South Wales and Western Australia can never again
+by any possibility possess a labour-fund, because the private owners
+of large grants of land, which they obtained for nominal sums, can
+always afford to undersell the Crown. So long as the Crown refuses
+to sell for less than a pound an acre, this will certainly be the
+case; but the day will doubtless come when our rulers will condescend
+to enquire into the necessities of those over whose fortunes they
+preside; and will adopt a policy suited to the actual circumstances
+of the case, and not vainly endeavour to apply, universally, abstract
+opinions which have long been proved to be, in almost all parts of
+Australia, totally useless and inapplicable. THE ONLY WAY TO RAISE A
+LABOUR-FUND IN THESE COLONIES IS, BY OFFERING CROWN-LANDS TO THE
+EMIGRANT AT THE LOWEST MARKET PRICE. The Crown could always afford
+to undersell the private land-speculator, and might establish a
+permanent fund for the introduction of labour, by selling land at a
+low rate, AND RESERVING A RENT-CHARGE, IN THE SHAPE OF A LAND-TAX --
+OF ONE HALF-PENNY PER ACRE. Thus, every grant of five thousand acres
+would pay an annual tax to Government of 10 pounds 8 shillings and 4
+pence; and would, therefore, in a very few years, accumulate a fund
+sufficient to supply itself with a labouring population. When it is
+remembered how very small was the original cost to the owners of most
+of the lands in Western Australia, there will not appear much hardship
+in imposing this tax upon all the private property of the colony, as
+well as upon lands to be hereafter sold by the Crown. This course of
+legislation would infuse new vitality into the colony; and at the end
+of the short period of five years, the tax might be suspended as
+regards all lands purchased by individuals PRIOR TO THE PASSING OF THE
+ACT, but continued for ever upon lands purchased under the Act, and in
+contemplation of having to bear such a rent-charge.
+
+This is the only way by which emigration can be insured to the
+colonies of New South Wales and Western Australia; and the time will
+sooner or later arrive when this suggestion will be adopted, though
+it may not be acknowledged.
+
+Her Majesty's present Secretary of State for the Colonies is the
+first really liberal minister we have had; and to him the distant and
+struggling settlements of Australia look with reviving hope. THE
+OBJECTS MOST EAGERLY SOUGHT BY THOSE COLONIES ARE -- A NEW SYSTEM OF
+GOVERNMENT, WITH LESS OF COLONIAL-OFFICE INTERFERENCE; A REGULAR
+POST-OFFICE COMMUNICATION WITH ENGLAND; AND A TOTAL REFORM IN THE
+EXISTING REGULATIONS FOR THE SALE OF CROWN-LANDS, WITHOUT WHICH, IN
+COUNTRIES PURELY PASTORAL AND AGRICULTURAL, THERE CAN NEVER AGAIN
+BE FORMED A FUND FOR THE INTRODUCTION OF LABOUR.
+
+In the hope of making colonial subjects more familiar to the general
+reader, and more popular than they are at present, I have perhaps
+given to this little work a character so trifling as to make it
+appear unworthy of the attention of political philosophers; and yet,
+inasmuch as it points out some of the wants of a large body of
+British subjects, whose fortunes lie entirely at the mercy of
+distant rulers, who have but little sympathy with a condition of
+which they possess but a most imperfect knowledge -- it is a work
+(inadequate though it be) not altogether undeserving of the
+consideration even of Statesmen.
+
+
+
+NOTE TO CHAPTER 30.
+
+I am happy that this work will become the medium of informing the
+Colonists of Western Australia of one of the most promising events
+that has ever happened to that country.
+
+The ship-timber of the Colony, a trial cargo of which arrived in
+England this month (October, 1847), has just been admitted into the
+Royal Navy. A highly favourable report has been made upon it by the
+Government surveyors, and it is pronounced admirably adapted for
+kelsons, stern-posts, great beams for steam-frigates, and other heavy
+work. If a company be formed, on good principles, and under proper
+management, a timber trade for the supply of the Navy will be found
+most lucrative.
+
+The principal portion of the labour should be performed by Chinamen,
+to be obtained from Sincapore.
+
+For this great boon, the Colonists are indebted to LORD AUCKLAND, the
+First Lord of the Admiralty, for his ready acquiescence in agreeing
+to receive the timber, by way of experiment; to Mr. G. H. Ward, the
+Secretary, for the kind attention he has paid to every request made
+to him on the subject, notwithstanding that he has been sufficiently
+pestered to have wearied the patience of the most amiable of mankind;
+and, above all, to our late Governor, MR. HUTT, and his brother, the
+Honourable Member for Gateshead, who have been indefatigable in their
+exertions to promote the weal of the Colony.
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Bushman, by Edward Wilson Landor
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