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diff --git a/7113-8.txt b/7113-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e64e95f --- /dev/null +++ b/7113-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10125 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Land of Midian, Vol. 2, by Richard Burton +#24 in our series by Richard Burton + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: The Land of Midian, Vol. 2 + +Author: Richard Burton + +Release Date: December, 2004 [EBook #7113] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on March 11, 2003] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-Latin-1 + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF MIDIAN, VOL. 2 *** + + + + +Produced by JC Byers and proofread by MaryAnn Short + + + + + + The Land of Midian (Revisited). + + By Richard F. Burton. + + In Two Volumes. + + Vol. II. + + C. Kegan Paul & Co. + London: + + 1879. + + + + + + To the Memory of My Much Loved Niece, + Maria Emily Harriet Stisted, + Who Died at Dovercourt, + November 12, 1878. + + + + + + CONTENTS + + + + PART II. + The March Through Central and Eastern Midian. (Continued) + +Chapter XI. The Unknown Lands South of the Hismá--Ruins of + Shuwák and Shaghab +Chapter XII. From Shaghab to Zibá--Ruins of El-Khandakí and Umm + Ámil--The Turquoise Mine--Return to El-Muwaylah +Chapter XIII. A Week Around and Upon the Shárr Mountain--Résumé + of the March Through Eastern or Central Midian +Chapter XIV. Down South--To El-Wijh–Notes on the Quarantine-- + The Hutaym Tribe. +Chapter XV. The Southern Sulphur-Hill--The Cruise to El-Haurá- + -Notes on the Baliyy Tribe and the Volcanic + Centres of North-Western Arabia +Chapter XVI. Our Last March--The Inland Fort--Ruins of the + Gold-Mines at Umm El-Karáyát and Umm El-Haráb +Chapter XVII. The March Continued to El-Badá--Description of the + Plain Badais +Chapter XVIII. Coal a "Myth"--March to Marwát--Arrival at the + Wady Hamz +Chapter XIX. The Wady Hamz--The Classical Ruin--Abá'l- + Marú, The Mine of "Marwah"--Return to El- + Wijh--Résumé of the Southern Journey +Conclusion + +Appendix I. Dates of the Three Journeys (Northern, + Central, and Southern) made by the Second + Khedivial Expedition +Appendix II. EXpenses of the Expedition to Midian, + Commanded by Captain R. F. Burton, H.B.M. + Consul, Trieste +Appendix III. Preserved Provisions and other Stores, + Supplied by Messrs. Voltéra Bros., of the + Ezbekiyyah, Cairo +Appendix IV. Botany and List of Insects +Appendix V. Meteorological Journal + +Index + + + + + + PART II. + The March Through Central and Eastern Midian. + (Continued.) + + + + + + Chapter XI. +The Unknown Lands South of the Hismá–Ruins of Shuwák and Shaghab. + + + +We have now left the region explored by Europeans; and our line +to the south and the south-east will lie over ground wholly new. +In front of us the land is no longer Arz Madyan: we are entering +South Midian, which will extend to El-Hejáz. As the march might +last longer than had been expected, I ordered fresh supplies from +El-Muwaylah to meet us in the interior viâ Zibá. A very small boy +acted dromedary-man; and on the next day he reached the fort, +distant some thirty-five and a half direct geographical miles +eastward with a trifling of northing. + +We left the Jayb el-Khuraytah on a delicious morning (6.15 a.m., +February 26th), startling the gazelles and the hares from their +breakfast graze. + +The former showed in troops of six; and the latter were still +breeding, as frequent captures of the long-eared young proved. +The track lay down the Wady Dahal and other influents of the +great Wady Sa'lúwwah, a main feeder of the Dámah. We made a +considerable détour between south-south-east and south-east to +avoid the rocks and stones discharged by the valleys of the +Shafah range on our left. To the right rose the Jibál el-Tihámah, +over whose nearer brown heights appeared the pale blue peaks of +Jebel Shárr and its southern neighbour, Jebel Sa'lúwwah. + +At nine a.m. we turned abruptly eastward up the Wady +el-Sulaysalah, whose head falls sharply from the Shafah range. +The surface is still Hismá ground, red sand with blocks of ruddy +grit, washed down from the plateau on the left; and, according to +Furayj, it forms the south-western limit of the Harrah. The +valley is honeycombed into man-traps by rats and lizards, causing +many a tumble, and notably developing the mulish instinct. We +then crossed a rough and rocky divide, Arabicè a Majrá, or, as +the Bedawin here pronounce it, a "Magráh,"[EN#1] which takes its +name from the tormented Ruways ridge on the right. After a hot, +unlively march of four hours (= eleven miles), on mules worn out +by want of water, we dismounted at a queer isolated lump on the +left of the track. This Jebel el-Murayt'bah ("of the Little +Step") is lumpy grey granite of the coarsest elements, whose +false strata, tilted up till they have become quasi-vertical, and +worn down to pillars and drums, crown the crest like gigantic +columnar crystallizations. We shall see the same freak of nature +far more grandly developed into the "Pins" of the Shárr. It has +evidently upraised the trap, of which large and small blocks are +here and there imbedded in it. The granite is cut in its turn by +long horizontal dykes of the hardest quadrangular basalt, +occasionally pudding'd with banded lumps of red jasper and +oxydulated iron: from afar they look like water-lines, and in +places they form walls, regular as if built. The rounded forms +result from the granites flaking off in curved laminæ, like +onion-coats. Want of homogeneity in the texture causes the +granite to degrade into caves and holes: the huge blocks which +have fallen from the upper heights often show unexpected hollows +in the under and lower sides. Above the water we found an immense +natural dolmen, under which apparently the Bedawin take shelter. +After El-Murayt'bah the regular granitic sequence disappears, nor +will it again be visible till we reach Shaghab (March 2nd). + +About noon we remounted and rounded the south of the block, +disturbing by vain shots two fine black eagles. I had reckoned +upon the "Water of El-Murayt'bah," in order to make an +exceptional march after so many days of deadly slow going. But +the cry arose that the rain-puddle was dry. We had not brought a +sufficient supply with us, and twenty-two miles to and from the +Wady Dahal was a long way for camels, to say nothing of their +owners and the danger of prowling Ma'ázah. In front water lay +still farther off, according to the guides, who, it will be seen, +notably deceived us. So I ordered the camp to be pitched, after +reconnoitering the locale of the water; and we all proceeded to +work, with a detachment of soldiers and quarrymen. It was not a +rain-puddle, but a spring rising slowly in the sand, which had +filled up a fissure in the granite about four feet broad; of +these crevices three were disposed parallel to one another, and +at different heights. They wanted only clearing out; the produce +was abundant, and though slightly flavoured with iron and +sulphur, it was drinkable. The thirsty mules amused us not a +little: they smelt water at once; hobbled as they were, all +hopped like kangaroos over the plain, and with long ears well to +the fore, they stood superintending the operation till it was +their turn to be happy. + +Our evening at the foot of El-Ruways was cheered, despite the +flies, the earwigs, and the biting Ba'úzah beetle, which here +first put in an appearance, by the weird and fascinating aspect +of the southern Hismá-wall, standing opposite to us, and distant +about a mile from the dull drab-coloured basin, El-Majrá. Based +upon mighty massive foundations of brown and green trap, the +undulating junction being perfectly defined by a horizontal white +line, the capping of sandstone rises regular as if laid in +courses, with a huge rampart falling perpendicular upon the +natural slope of its glacis. This bounding curtain is called the +Taur el-Shafah, the "inaccessible part of the Lip-range." Further +eastward the continuity of the coping has been broken and +weathered into the most remarkable castellations: you pass mile +after mile of cathedrals, domes, spires, minarets, and pinnacles; +of fortresses, dungeons, bulwarks, walls, and towers; of +platforms, buttresses, and flying buttresses. These Girágir +(Jirájir), as the Bedawin call them, change shape at every new +point of view, and the eye never wearies of their infinite +variety. Nor are the tints less remarkable than the forms. When +the light of day warms them with its gorgeous glaze, the +buildings wear the brightest hues of red concrete, like a certain +house near Prince's Gate, set off by lambent lights of lively +pink and balas-ruby, and by shades of deep transparent purple, +while here and there a dwarf dome or a tumulus gleams sparkling +white in the hot sun-ray. The even-glow is indescribably lovely, +and all the lovelier because unlasting: the moment the red disc +disappears, the glorious rosy smile fades away, leaving the pale +grey ghosts of their former selves to gloom against the gloaming +of the eastern sky. I could not persuade M. Lacaze to transfer +this vividity of colour to canvas: he had the artist's normal +excuse, "Who would believe it?" + +The next morning saw the Expedition afoot at six a.m., determined +to make up for a half by the whole day's work so long intended. +The track struck eastward, and issued from the dull hollow, Majrá +el-Ruways, by a made road about a mile and a half long, a cornice +cut in the stony flanks of a hill whose head projected southwards +into the broad Wady Hujayl ("the Little Partridge"). This line +seems to drain inland; presently it bends round by the east and +feeds the Wady Dámah. Rain must lately have fallen, for the earth +is "purfled flowers," pink, white, and yellow. The latter is the +tint prevailing in Midian, often suggesting the careless European +wheat-field, in which "shillock" or wild mustard rears its +gamboge head above the green. Midian wants not only the charming +oleander and the rugged terebinth, typical of the Desert; but +also the "blood of Adonis," the lovely anemone which lights up +the Syrian landscape like the fisherman's scarlet cap in a +sea-piece. This stage introduced us to the Hargul (Harjal, Rhazya +stricta), whose perfume filled the valley with the clean smell of +the henna-bloom, the Eastern privet--Mr. Clarke said +"wallflowers." Our mules ate it greedily, whilst the country +animals, they say, refuse it: the flowers, dried and pounded, +cure by fumigation "pains in the bones." Here also we saw for the +first time the quaint distaff-shape of the purple red Masrúr +(Cynomorium coccineum, Linn.), from which the Bedawi "cook +bread." It is eaten simply peeled and sun-dried, when it has a +vegetable taste slightly astringent as if by tannin, something +between a potato and a turnip; or its rudely pounded flour is +made into balls with soured milk. This styptic, I am told by Mr. +R. B. Sharpe, of the British Museum, was long supposed to be +peculiar to Malta; hence its pre-Linnaean name (Fungus +Melitensis).[EN#2] Now it is known to occur through the +Mediterranean to India. Let me here warn future collectors of +botany in Midian that throughout the land the vegetable kingdom +follows the rule of the mineral: every march shows something new; +and he who neglects to gather specimens, especially of the +smaller flowers, in one valley, will perhaps find none of them in +those adjoining. + +A denser row of trees lower down the Wady Hujayl led to the water +of Amdán (Mídán?), about an hour and a half from our last +nighting-place; yesterday it had been reported six hours distant. +High towering on our left (north) rose three huge buttresses of +the Girágir. In front stood a marvellous background of domes and +arches, cones and ninepins, all decayed Hismá, blurred and broken +by the morning mist, which could hardly be called a fog; and +forming a perspective of a dozen distances. Now they curve from +north-east to south-west in a kind of scorpion's tail, with +detached vertebrae torn and wasted by the adjacent plutonic +outcrops; and looking from the west they suggest blood-red islets +rising above the great gloomy waves of trap and porphyry. This +projection will remain in sight until we reach Shuwák; and in +places we shall see it backed by the basalts and lavas of the +straightlined Harrah. + +Presently turning sharp to the right (south-east), we struck +across a second divide, far more shallow than the first; and fell +into the northern basin of the great Dámah valley, also known as +El-Rahabah, "the Open;"--the Rehoboth ("spaces") of the Hebrews. +Like yesterday's, the loose red sand is Hismá; and it is also +scattered with Harrah lava. After a four hours' ride we halted to +enable the caravan to come up. Our Shaykhs were bent upon making +twelve miles the average day's work; and their "little game" was +now to delay as much as possible. Here we again found flocks of +sheep and goats tended by young girls, who ran away like +ostriches, and by old women who did not: on the contrary, Sycorax +enjoyed asking the news and wrangling over a kid. The camels +throughout this country seem to be always under the charge of men +or boys. + +Here began our study of the great Wady Da'mah, whose fame as an +Arabian Arcadia extends far and wide, and whose possession has +caused many a bloody battle. We now see it at its best, in early +spring morning, when + + "The landscape smiles + Calm in the sun, and silent are the hills + And valleys, and the blue serene of air." + +This notable feature is a Haddúdah ("frontier divider"), which in +ancient days separated the ‘Ukbíyyah ("Ukbah-land") to the north +from the Balawi'yyah ("Baliyy-land") south. The latter still +claim it as their northern limit; but the intrusive Egypto-Arabs +have pushed their way far beyond this bourne. Its present Huwayti +owners, the Sulaymiyyín, the Sulaymát, the Jeráfín, and other +tribes, are a less turbulent race than the northerns because they +are safe from the bandit Ma'ázah: they are more easily managed, +and they do not meet a fair offer with the eternal Yaftah +‘Allah--"Allah opens."[EN#3] + +The head of the Dámah, a great bay in the Hismá-wall to the east, +is now in sight of us; and we shall pass its mouth, which +debouches into the sea below Zibá. This tract is equally abundant +in herds (camels), flocks, and vegetation: in places a thin +forest gathers, and the tree-clumps now form a feature in the +scenery. The sole, a broad expanse of loose red arenaceous +matter, the washings of the plateau, is fearfully burrowed and +honeycombed; it is also subject, like its sister the Sadr, to the +frequent assault of "devils," or sand-pillars. That it is +plentifully supplied with water, we learn from the presence of +birds. The cries of the caravane, the "knock-kneed" plover of +Egypt, yellow-beaked and black-eyed, resounded in the more barren +belts. A lovely little sun-bird (Nectarinia oseœ?), which the +Frenchmen of course called colibri, with ravishing reflections of +green and gold, flashed like a gem thrown from shrub to shrub: +this oiseau mouche is found scattered throughout Midian; we saw +it even about El-Muwaylah, but I had unfortunately twice +forgotten dust-shot. The Egyptian Rakham (percnopter), yellow +with black-tipped wings; a carrion-eater, now so rare, and the +common brown kite, still so common near civilized Cairo, soared +in the sky; while the larger vultures, perching upon the +rock-ridges, suggested Bedawi sentinels. The ravens, here as +elsewhere, are a plague: flights of them occupy favourite places, +and they prey upon the young lambs, hares, and maimed birds. + +We advanced another five miles, and crossed to the southern side +of the actual torrent-bed, whose banks, strewed with a quantity +of dead flood-wood entangling the trees, and whose flaky clays, +cracked to the shape of slabs and often curling into tubes of +natural pottery, show that at times the Hismá must discharge +furious torrents. We camped close to the Dámah at the foot of the +Jebel el-Balawi; the water, known as Máyat el-Jebayl ("of the +Hillock"), lay ahead in a low rocky snout: it was represented as +being distant a full hour, and the mules did not return from it +till three had passed; but thirty minutes would have been nearer +the truth. The Nile-drinkers turned up their fastidious noses at +the supply, but Lieutenant Amir, who had graduated in the rough +campaigning-school of the Súdán, pronounced it "regular." + +The nighting-place on the Dámah was as pretty and picturesque as +the Majrá was tame and uncouth. While the west was amber clear, +long stripes of purpling, crimson, flaming cloud, to the south +and the east, set off the castled crags disposed in a semicircle +round the Wady-head; and the "buildings" appeared art-like +enough to be haunted ground, the domain of the Fata Morgana, a +glimpse of the City of Brass built by Shaddaá, son of ‘Ad. When +the stars began to glitter sharp and clear, our men fell to +singing and dancing; and the boy Husayn Ganinah again +distinguished himself by his superior ribaldry. Our work was more +respectable and prosaic, firing a mule with a swollen back. + +Within a mile or so of us stood some Bedawi tents, which we had +passed on the march: they were deserted by the men, here +Sulaymát, who drive their camels to the wilds sometimes for a +week at a time. An old wife who brought us a goat for sale, and +who begged that Husayn, the Básh-Buzúk, might pass the night with +her, in order to shoot an especially objectionable wolf, had a +long tale to tell of neighbouring ruins. She also reported that +near the same place there is a well with steps, into which the +Arabs had descended some seven fathoms; presently they found +houses occupying the galleries at the bottom, and fled in terror. + +Lieutenant Amir was sent to sketch and survey the site next +morning; and he was lucky enough to be guided by one Sa'id bin +Zayfullah, the Sulaymi, whose prime dated from the palmy days of +the great Mohammed Ali Pasha. He acknowledged as his friends the +grandfather, and even the father, of our guide Furayj; but the +latter he ignored, looking upon him as a mere Walad ("lad"). +Moreover, he remembered the birth of Shaykh Mohammed ‘Afnán, +chief of the Baliyy, which took place when he himself had already +become a hunter of the gazelle.[EN#4] According to him, the +remains are still known as the Dár ("house") or Diyár ("houses") +El-Nasárá--"of the Nazarenes," that is, of the Nabathaeans. The +former term is retained here, as in Sinai, by popular tradition; +and the latter is clean forgotten throughout Midian.[EN#5] + +Riding down the Wady Dámah to the southwest, Lieutenant Amir came +upon a spring in a stone-revetted well near the left bank: this +Ayn el-Bada' is not to be confounded with the Badí' water, or +with the Badá plain, both of which we shall presently visit. A +strew of broken quartz around it showed the atelier, and +specimens of scattered fragments, glass and pottery, were +gathered. The settlement-ruins, which the guide called +El-Kantarah, lie further down upon a southern influent of the +main line: they are divided into two blocks, one longer than the +other. Lieutenant Amir made a careful plan of the remains, and +then pushed forward to Shuwák by the direct track, westward of +that taken by the caravan. He arrived in camp, none the worse for +a well-developed "cropper;" his dromedary had put its foot in a +hole, and had fallen with a suddenness generally unknown to the +cameline race. + +By way of geographical exercitation, we had all drawn our several +plans, showing, after Arab statement, the lay of Shaghab and +Shuwák, the two ruins which we were about to visit. Nothing could +be more ridiculous when the sketch-maps came to be compared. This +was owing to the route following the three sides of a long +parallelogram; whilst the fourth is based upon the Wady Dámah, +causing considerable complication. And, the excursus ended, all +were convinced that we had made much southing, when our furthest +point was not more than five miles south of Zibá (north lat. 27° +20'). + +We quitted the great valley at six a.m. (February 28th), and +struck up the Wady Shuwák, an influent that runs northwards to +the Dámah's left bank. On the stony ground above the right side +of this Fiumara lay six circles of stones, disposed in a line +from north-east to south-west: they may have been ruins of Hufrah +("water-pits"). As we rose the Nullah surface was pied with white +flowers, the early growth which here takes the place of +primroses. I had some difficulty in persuading our good friend +Furayj, who had not seen the country for fifteen years, to engage +as guide one of the many Bedawin camel-herds: his course seemed +to serpentine like that of an animal grazing--he said it was +intended to show the least stony road--and, when he pointed with +the wave of the maimed right hand, he described an arc of some +90°. The Sulaymi lad caught the nearest camel, climbed its sides +as you would a tree, and, when the animal set off at a lumbering +gallop, pressed the soles of his feet to the ribs, with exactly +the action of a Simiad; clinging the while, like grim Death, to +the hairy hump. + +After some six miles we attempted a short cut, a gorge that +debouched on the left bank of the Shuwák valley. It showed at +once a complete change of formation: the sides were painted with +clays of variegated colours, crystallized lime and porphyritic +conglomerates, tinted mauve-purple as if by manganese. Further +on, the path, striking over broken divides and long tracts of +stony ground, became rough riding: it was bordered by the usual +monotonous, melancholy hills of reddish and greenish trap, whose +slaty and schist-like edges in places stood upright. On the +summit of the last Col appeared the ruins of an outwork, a large +square and a central heap of boulder-stones. Straight in front +rose the block that backs our destination, the Jebel el-Sáni', or +"Mountain of the Maker," the artificer par excellence, that is, +the blacksmith: it is so called from a legendary shoer of horses +and mules, who lived there possibly in the days before Sultán +Selim. It is remarkable for its twin peaks, sharp-topped blocks, +the higher to the east, and called by the Bedawin Naghar and +Nughayr. The guides spoke of a furnace near the summit of these +remarkable cones; excellent landmarks which we shall keep in +sight during several marches. At length, after ten miles of slow +work, we saw before us, stretched as upon a map, the broad valley +with its pink sands; the Daum-trees, the huge ‘Ushr or "Apple of +Sodom," the fan-palm bush, and the large old Jujubes--here an +invariable sign of former civilization--which informed us that +there lay fair Shuwák. + +The dull gorge introduced us to what was then a novelty in +Midian; but we afterwards found it upon the cold heights of the +Shárr, where it supplied us with many a dainty dish. This was the +Shinnár[EN#6] (caccabis), a partridge as large as a pheasant, and +flavoured exactly like the emigrant from Phasis. + +The coat, the clock! clock! and the nimble running over the +rocks, ever the favourite haunt, denote the "perdix." The head is +black, as in the C. melanocephala of Abyssinia, and the legs and +feet are red like the smaller "Greek" caccabis that inhabits the +Hismá; the male birds have no spurs, and they are but little +larger than their mates. There seems to be no difficulty in +keeping them; we bought a hen and chicks caged at El-Wijh, but +whether they lived or not I neglected to note. Here, too, we +learned the reason why the falcons and the hawks (Falco milvus, +F. gentilis, etc.) are so fierce and so well-fed. The tyrant of +the air raises the partridge or the quail by feinting a swoop, +and, as it hurries away screaming aloud, follows it leisurely at +a certain distance. Finally, when the quarry reaches the place +intended--at least, the design so appears--the falcon stoops and +ends the chase. The other birds were ring-doves, turtles, and the +little "butcher" impaling, gaily as a "gallant Turk," its live +victim upon a long thorn. + +Shuwák, which lies in about north lat. 27° 15', can be no other than +the <Greek> placed by Ptolemy (vi. 7) in north lat. 26° 15'; and, if +so, we must add one degree to his latitudes, which are sixty miles +too low.[EN#7] According to Sprenger ("Alt. Geog.," p. 25), <Greek> +and <Greek> do not fit into any of the Alexandrian's routes; and +were connected only with their ports Rhaunathos (M'jirmah?) and +Phoenicon Vicus (Zibá?). But both these cities were large and +important centres, both of agriculture and of mining industry, +forming crucial stations on the great Nabathæan highway, the +overland between Leukè Kóme and Petra. The line was kept up by the +Moslems until Sultán Selim's superseded it; and hence the modern +look of the remains which at first astonished us so much. The +tradition of the Hajj-passage is distinctly preserved by the +Bedawin; and I have little doubt that metal has been worked here as +lately, perhaps, as the end of the last century. But by whom, again, +deponent ventures not to say, even to guess. + +The site of Shuwák is a long island in the broad sandy Wady of +the same name, which, as has been remarked, feeds the Dámah. Its +thalweg has shifted again and again: the main line now hugs the +southern or left bank, under the slopes and folds of the Jebel +el-Sáni'; whilst a smaller branch, on the northern side, is +subtended by the stony divide last crossed. At the city the lay +of the valley is from north-east to south-west, and the altitude +is about seventeen hundred feet (aner. 28.28). The head still +shows the castellations of the Hismá. Looking down-stream, beyond +the tree-dotted bed and the low dark hills that divide this basin +from the adjoining Wady to the south, we see the tall grey tops +of the Jebel Zigláb (Zijláb) and of the Shahbá-Gámirah--the +"ashen-coloured (Peak) of Gámirah"--the latter being the name of +a valley. Both look white by the side of the dark red and green +rocks; and we shall presently find that they mark the granite +region lying south and seaward of the great trap formations. We +were not sorry to see it again--our eyes were weary of the gloomy +plutonic curtains on either side. + +At Shuwák we allowed the camels a day of rest, whilst we planned +and sketched, dug into, and described the ruins. A difficulty +about drinking-water somewhat delayed us. The modern wells, like +those of the Haurán, are rudely revetted pits in a bald and shiny +bit of clay-plain below the principal block of ruins: only one in +the dozen holds water, and that has been made Wahsh ("foul") by +the torrent sweeping into it heaps of the refuse and manure +strewed around. The lower folds of the Sáni' block also supply +rain-pools; but here, again, the Arabs and their camels had left +their marks. The only drinkable water lies a very long mile down +the southern (left) bank, above the old aqueduct, in a deep and +narrow gorge of trap. The perennial spring, still trickling down +the rocks, was dammed across, as remnants of cement show us, in +more places than one. There are also signs of cut basins, which +the barrages above and below once divided into a series of tanks. +Up the rough steps of the bed the camel-men drove their beasts; +and the name of a Gujráti maker, printed upon a sack of +Anglo-Indian canvas, had a curious effect among such Bedawi +surroundings. + +At last we sank a pit some five feet deep in a re-entering angle +of the northern or smaller branch; we lined it with stone +down-stream, where the flow made the loose sand fall in, and we +obtained an ample and excellent supply. Doubtless it was spoiled, +as soon as our backs were turned, by the half-Fellah +Jeráfín-Huwaytát, to whom the place belongs. The sea-breeze +during the day was high and dust-laden, but we passed a cool +delicious night upon the clean sweet sand, which does not stick +or cling. At this altitude there is no fear of bugs and +fleas--the only dread is Signor "Pediculus." + +We will begin, with our surveyors, at the valley head, and note +the ruins as we stroll down. This section, Shuwák proper, is +nearly a mile and a half long, and could hardly have lodged less +than twenty thousand souls. But that extent by no means +represents the whole; our next march will prolong it along the +valley for a total of at least four miles. The material is +various--boulders of granite and syenite; squares of trap and +porphyry; the red sandstones of the Hismá; the basalts of the +Harrah; and the rock found in situ, a brown and crumbling grit, +modern, and still in process of agglutination. The heaps and +piles which denote buildings are divided by mounds and tumuli of +loose friable soil, white with salt,--miniatures of Babylon, +Nineveh, and Troy. On either flanks of the river-holm the +periodical torrents have done their worst, cutting up the once +regular bank into a succession of clay buttresses. On the right +side we find a large fort, half sliced away, but still showing +the concrete flooring of a tower. About the centre of the length +are the remnants of a round Burj; blocks of buildings, all +levelled to the foundations, lie to the north-west, and on the +west appear signs of a square. Perhaps the most interesting +discovery is that of catacombs, proving a civilization analogous +to Magháir Shu'ayb, but ruder, because more distant from the +centre. The "caves" are hollowed in a long reef of loose breccia, +which, fronting eastward, forms the right bank of the smaller +branch. They are now almost obliterated by being turned into +sheep-folds; the roofs have fallen in, and only one preserves the +traces of two loculi. + +The arrangements touching fuel and water in this great +metal-working establishment are on a large scale. The biggest of +the Afrán ("furnaces") lies to the north-west, near the right +bank of the valley: all are of the ordinary type, originally some +five or six feet high, to judge from the bases. They are built of +fire-brick, and of the Hismá stone, which faces itself into a +natural latex. We dug deep into several of them; but so careful +had been the workmen, or perhaps those who afterwards ransacked +these places, that not the smallest tear of metal remained: we +found only ashes, pottery, and scoriae, as usual black and green, +the latter worked sub-aerially; many of them had projections like +stalactite. Round the furnaces are strewed carbonate of lime, +stained black with iron, like that of Sharmá; and a quantity of +the chlorite-enamelled serpentine still used in the Brazil as a +flux. + +Quartz was absent, and we were at a loss to divine what stone had +been worked. At last we observed near the catacombs sundry heaps +of pinkish earth, evidently washed out; and our researches in the +South Country afterwards suggested that this may have been the +remains of the micaceous schist, whose containing quartz was so +extensively worked at Umm el-Haráb. Moreover, a short study of +Shaghab threw more light on the matter. + +Water also had been stored up with prodigious labour. We could +easily trace the lines of half a dozen aqueducts, mostly +channelled with rough cement, overlying a fine concrete; some of +them had grooved stones to divert the stream by means of lashers. +The Fiskíyyah or "tanks," as carefully built, were of all sizes; +and the wells, which appeared to be mediaeval, were lined with +stones cut in segments of circles: we shall see the same curve in +Sultán Selim's work near Zibá. The greatest feat is an aqueduct +which, sanded over in the upper part, subtends the left side of +the valley. It is carefully but rudely built, and where it +crosses a gully, the "horizontal arch" is formed of projecting +stone tiers, without a sign of key. This magnum opus must date +from the days when the southern part of the Wady was nearly what +it is now. + +About a mile and a quarter below our camp, the Wady, which +broadens to a mile, shows on the left bank a wall measuring a +thousand metres long, apparently ending in a tank of 110 feet +each way. Around it are ruined parallelograms of every size, +which in ancient times may have been workshops connected with the +buildings in the island higher up. The torrents have now washed +away the continuation, if ever there was any; and, though the +lower remnants are comparatively safe upon their high ledge, the +holm is evidently fated to disappear. + +I did not learn till too late that a single day's march +southwards from the Wady Shuwák, along the old main line of +traffic, leads to the Wady Nejd, upon whose upper course is the +plain of Badá; and which, after assuming four different names, +falls, as will be seen, into the sea about thirty-five miles +north of El-Wijh. + +We left Shuwák considerably posed, puzzled, and perplexed by what +it had shown us. A little pottery had been picked up, but our +diggings had not produced a coin or even a bit of glass. The +evidences of immense labour are the more astonishing when +compared with the utter absence of what we call civilization. The +Greek and Latin inscriptions of the Hauranic cities declare their +origin: these, absolutely unalphabetic, refuse a single hint +concerning the mysterious race which here lived and worked, and +worked so nobly. And, finally, who were the Moslems that +succeeded them in a later day, when the Hajj-caravan, some three +centuries and a half ago, ceased to march by this road? How is it +that the annalists say nothing of them? that not a vestige of +tradition remains concerning any race but the Nazarenes? + +From Shuwák to the Wady Dámah there are two roads, a direct and +an indirect; the latter passing by the ruins of Shaghab. The +caravan begged hard to take the former, but was summarily +refused. At six a.m. we rode down the Shuwák valley, again noting +its huge constructions, and then striking away from it to the +left, we passed over a short divide of brown hill, where the +narrow Pass was marked only by Bedawi graves. The morning showed +a peculiar rainbow, if a bow may be called so when no rain +appeared; a perpendicular stripe, brilliant enough, and lasting +at least twenty minutes. The cloud behind it had no skirt, no +droop in fact, no sign of dissolution; and what made it the +stranger was that this "bull's-eye" lay north of, and not +opposite to, but quite near, the rising sun. We shall note +another of these exceptional rainbows at El-Badá.[EN#8] + +After marching some seven miles to the south with westing, we saw +inform heaps to the left: half an hour afterwards, +boulder-encircled pits of a brighter green on the right, the +Themáil el-Má ("artificial cisterns") of the Arabs, announced +that we were reaching Shaghab. The caravan punished us by wasting +five hours on the way, in order to force a halt; and by camping +at the wrong place, when I objected to the delay. It brought with +it, however, a fine young Beden (ibex), killed by one of the +Bedawin; and we determined to stuff, to bury, and to bake it, +Arab fashion, under the superintendence of the Básh-Buzúk Husayn. +Unfortunately it was served to us on the next day cold, whereas +it should have been eaten at once, piping hot. The meat was dark, +with a beefy rather than a gamey flavour, palatable, but by no +means remarkable. There were loud regrets that a cuisse de +chevreuil had not been marinée; in fact, an infect odour of the +Quartier Latin everywhere followed us; and when a guide told us +the pattern lie, that we should not reach Umm ‘Amir before the +fourth day, the poor "Frogs" croaked, and croaked audibly as +dismally. Their last bottle of ordinaire was finished; Gabr, the +Kázi, had come into camp, bearing a long official Arabic document +from Lieutenant Yusuf, but not a single Journal de Genève; there +was no news of a steamer being sent with rations and forage from +Suez: briefly, c'était embetant--to use the milder of the two +favourite synonyms. + +The ruins of Shaghab are built upon a more complicated site than +those of Shuwák. The position is charming. The Wady Shaghab, +flowing to the south, here spreads out in a broad bulge or basin +open to the west. Down-stream we see a "gate" formed by the +meeting of two rocky tongue-tips, both showing large works. +Beyond these narrows the valley bends to the south-west and feeds +the Wady Aznab, which falls into the sea south of the Dámah. The +mass of the ruined city lies upon the left bank, where a high and +artificial-looking remblai of earth masks an eastern influent, +the Wady el-Aslah (Athlah), or "of the Kali-plant." It drains the +mountain of the same name, and the Jebel Zigláb (Zijláb), the +cones of pale granite visible from Shuwák; and upon its broad +mouth the old settlement stood à cheval. A little north of west +rises profiled the great Shárr, no longer a ridge with a coping +of four horns, but a tall and portly block, from whose summit +spring heads and peaks of airy blue-pink. Slightly east of north +the twins Naghar and Nughayr, combining to form the "Mountain of +the Maker" (Jebel el-Sáni'), tower in the shape of a huge +pyramid. Lastly, a regular ascent, the Majrá el-Wághir, fronts +the city, sloping up to the west-north-west, and discloses a view +of the Jibál el-Tihámah: this broad incline was, some three +centuries ago, the route of the Hajj-caravan. + +We walked down the Shaghab valley-bed, whose sides, like those of +the Dámah, are chevaux de frise of dead wood. The characteristic +rock is a conglomerate of large and small stones, compacted by +hard silicious paste, and stained mauve-purple apparently by +manganese: we had seen it on the way to Shuwák; and the next +day's march will pave the uplands with it. The wells in the sole +are distinctly Arab, triangular mouths formed and kept open by +laying down tree-trunks, upon which the drawer of water safely +stands. On the right bank up-stream no ruins are perceptible; +those on the left are considerable, but not a quarter the size of +Shuwák. Here again appear the usual succession of great squares: +the largest to the east measures 500 metres along the sides; and +there are three others, one of 400 metres by 192. They are +subtended by one of many aqueducts, whose walls, two feet thick, +showed no signs of brick: it is remarkable for being run +underground to pierce a hillock; in fact, the system is rather +Greek or subterranean, than Roman or subaerial. Further down are +the remains apparently of a fort: heaps of land-shells lie about +it; they are very rare in this region, and during our four +months' march we secured only two species.[EN#9] + +Still descending, we found the ancient or mediaeval wells, +numbering about a dozen, and in no wise differing from those of +Shuwák. At the gorge, where the Wady escapes from view, +Lieutenant Amir planned buildings on the lower right bank, and on +the left he found a wall about half a mile long, with the remains +of a furnace and quartz scattered about it. This stone had +reappeared in large quantities, the moment we crossed the divide; +the pale grey of the Jebel Zigláb and its neighbours was +evidently owing to its presence; and from this point it will be +found extending southwards and seawards as far as El-Hejaz. He +brought with him a hard white stone much resembling trachyte, and +fragments of fine green jasper. + +A cursory inspection of Shaghab removed some of the difficulties +which had perplexed us at Shuwák and elsewhere. In the North +Country signs of metal-working, which was mostly confined to the +Wadys, have been generally obliterated; washed away or sanded +over. Here the industry revealed itself without mistake. The +furnaces were few, but around each one lay heaps of Negro and +copper-green quartz, freshly fractured; while broken handmills of +basalt and lava, differing from the rubstones and mortars of a +softer substance, told their own tale. + +At Shaghab, then, the metalliferous "Marú" brought from the +adjacent granitic mountains was crushed, and then transported for +roasting and washing to Shuwák, where water, the prime necessary +in these lands, must have been more abundant. Possibly in early +days the two settlements formed one, the single <Greek> of +Ptolemy; and the south end would have been the headquarters of +the wealthy. Hence the Bedawin always give it precedence--Shaghab +wa Shuwák; moreover, we remarked a better style of building in +the former; and we picked up glass as well as pottery. + +As a turkey buzzard (vulture) is the fittest emblem for murderous +Dahome, so I should propose for Midian, now spoiled and wasted by +the Wild Man, a broken handmill of basalt upon a pile of spalled +Negro quartz. + + + + + + Chapter XII. + + From Shaghab to Zibá--ruins of El-Khandakí' and Umm Ámil--the + Turquoise Mine–Return to El-Muwaylah. + + + +Leaving Lieutenant Amir to map the principal ruins, we followed +the caravan up the Majrá el-Wághir, the long divide rising to the +west-north-west. The thin forest reminded me of the wooded slopes +of the Anti-Libanus about El-Kunaytarah: there, however, +terebinths and holm-oaks take the place of these unlovely and +uncomfortable thorn-trees. They are cruelly beaten--an operation +called El-Ramá--by the Bedawi camel-man, part of whose travelling +kit, and the most important part too, here as in Sinai, is the +flail (Murmár or Makhbat) and the mat to receive the leaves: +perhaps Acacias and Mimosas are not so much bettered by "bashing" +as the woman, the whelp, and the walnut-tree of the good old +English proverb. After three miles we passed, on the left, ruins +of long walls and Arab Wasm, with white memorial stones perched +on black. In front rose the tall Jebel Tulayh, buttressing the +right or northern bank of the Dámah; and behind it, stained +faint-blue by distance, floated in the flickering mirage the +familiar forms of the Tihámah range, a ridge now broken into half +a dozen blocks. I had ordered the caravan to march upon the +Tuwayl el-Súk; but, after one hour and fifteen minutes, we found +the tents pitched some three miles short of it, on a bleak and +ugly wave of the Wághir. The Shaykhs swore, by all holy things, +that this was the veritable Tuwayl; and a Bedawi, who declared +that he knew where water lay in the neighbourhood, refused to +show it sans the preliminary "bakhshísh." Mashallah! It is a +noble race. + +Early next morning (six a.m., March 3rd) we followed the right +bank of the Wady el-Khandakí, which runs north with westing. +Beyond it lay the foot-hills of gloomy trap leading to the Jebel +el-Raydán, a typical granitic form, a short demi-pique saddleback +with inwards-sloping pommel like the Pao d'Assucar of picturesque +Rio de Janeiro. Here as elsewhere, the granites run parallel with +and seaward of the traps. The Tuwayl el-Súk is nothing but an +open and windy flat, where the Hajj-caravan used to camp an +adjoining ridge, the Hamrá el-Tuwayl, shows spalled quartz, Wasm +and memorial stones. The principal formation here is the +mauve-purple conglomerate before described. + +After riding nine miles we came unexpectedly upon a large and +curious ruin, backed by the broad Wady Dámah gleaming white in +the sun. The first feature noticed was a pair of parallel walls, +or rather their foundations, thirty-five feet apart, and nearly a +kilometre in length: it looked like a vast hangar. To the left +lie three tracings of squares; the central is a work of earth and +stone, not unlike a rude battery; and, a few paces further north, +a similar fort has a cistern attached to its western curtain. +Heaps of rounded boulders, and the crumbling white-edged mounds +which, in these regions, always denote old habitations, run down +the right bank of the Wady el-Khandakí to its junction with the +Dámah. For want of a better name I called this old settlement +Kharábát (the "Ruins of") el-Khandakí, and greatly regretted that +we had not time enough to march down the whole line of the Dámah. + +Half an hour more placed us at the great Wady, whose general +direction is here west with a little southing, and which still +merits its fame as an Arabian Arcadia. The banks were thickly +bordered with secular tamarisks (T. orientalis), those hardy +warriors with the Hebrew-Arabic name Asl (Athl), that battle +against wind and weather, as successfully at Dovercourt (Essex) +as at Haydarábád (Sind). + +The tint was the normal grey-green, not unlike that of the traps +in arrière plan. The clumps sheltered goats, sheep, and camels; +and our mules now revel every day on green meat, growing fatter +and fatter upon the Aristida grass, the Panicum, the Hordeum +murinum, and the Bromus of many varieties. Fronting us rose the +twin granitic peaks of Jebel Mutadán, one with a stepped side +like an unfinished pyramid. They are separated from the Dámah by +a rough and stony divide; and ruins with furnaces are reported to +be found in their valley-drain, which feeds the great Wady ‘Amúd. + +We halted, after some sixteen to seventeen miles, at the water +El-Ziyayb, slightly brackish but relished by our animals; and +resumed our way in the cool sea-breeze at one p.m., passing the +Jebel Tulayh on the north bank. The track then left the Dámah and +turned up a short broad bed to the north-west. On the right rose +a block of syenite, ruddy with orthose, all rounded lumps and +twisted finials; it discharged a quantity of black sand that +streaked the gravel plain. At four p.m. we camped on a broad +divide, El-Kutayyifah, where an adjacent Sha'b, or "fold," +supplied fresh rain-water. The march had teen long (seven hours = +twenty-two miles); and Shaykhs and camel-men looked, the Sayyid +said, as if they had "smelt Jehannum." + +This divide, also called the Jayb el Sa'lúwwah, with granites to +the east, and traps mixed with granites on the west, shows signs +of labour. Hard by, to the south-west, some exceptionally +industrious Bedawi, of the Jeráfín-Huwaytát, had laid out a small +field with barley. In the evening we walked westward to the hills +that bound the slope; and came upon a rock-cut road leading to an +atalier, where "Marú" has been spalled from the stone in situ. +Some specimens had a light-bluish tinge, as if stained by cobalt, +a metal found in several slags; and there were veins of +crystalline amethyst-quartz, coloured, said the engineer by +chlorure of silver (?). The filons and filets cut the granite in +all directions; and the fiery action of frequent trap-dykes had +torn the ground-rock to tatters. The western side of +El-Kutayyifah also showed modern ruins. + +The guides reported, as usual when too late, that to the +west-south-west lies a Nakb, called Abú'l Marwah ("Father of the +Quartz-place"), whose waters flow viâ the Mutadán to the ‘Amúd +valley. For some days I had cold shudders lest this Pass, thus +left unvisited, might be the Zúl-Marwah, the classical +"Móchoura," one of the objects of our Expedition. The alarm +proved, however, as will be seen, false. A Bedawi youth also +volunteered a grand account of three "written stones;" a built +well surrounded by broken quartz; and, a little off the road from +El-Kutayyifah to Umm Ámil, the remains of El-Dayr ("the +Convent"). As Leake well knew, the latter is "a name which is +often indiscriminately applied by the Arabs to ancient ruins." +The lad said they were close by, but the Garíb ("near") and the +Gurayyib ("nearish") of the Midianite much resemble the Egyptian +Fellah's Taht el-Wish, "Under the face"--we should say "nose"--or +Taht el-Ka'b, "Under the heel." They may mean a handful of miles. +As he refused to guide us, we secured the services of an old +shepherd, who, objecting to sleep in camp, caused abundant +trouble and delay next morning. + +From this divide two roads lead to the ruins of Umm Ámil: one +makes a considerable detour up a branch-valley in order to avoid +an ugly Pass on the direct line. I again refused the camel-men +permission to proceed by the indirect route, well knowing that +they would do their best to miss us. On March 4th, at six a.m., a +long descent and a similar rise led us to a Col, which presently +became a broad open plain, 2100 feet above sea-level (aner. +28.85). Tents were scattered about the valleys; the lads tended +their goats, and we greatly admired one fellow who had fallen +asleep in the hot ascending steams. Here the old guide halted us, +and declared that on the top of the dark trap-block the left +(south) was a Mashghal, or "work-place," with a strew of quartz +and nothing else. Thus ended the "built well." Descending to a +lower plane, bounded in front by low rolling hills, I sent +Lieutenant Amir to examine the "Convent" and the "written +stones." He came up with us at the halt; having been led over a +rough divide by an abominable path; and he had seen only a few +ruined heaps and three Arab Wusúm. Moreover, he had not dared to +show disappointment before the old shepherd, who would probably +have bolted in fear, and left him to find his own way. + +Meanwhile the caravan continued its course down the broad smooth +Wady Ruways, on whose left side was a large atelier, with broken +walls and spalled quartz of the Negro variety. Here we found, for +the first time, the handmills made of the hardest grey granite, +so beautifully worked further south; they explained the fine and +carefully polished tube which had been brought to the first +Expedition at Zibá.[EN#10] Several of these articles were all but +whole, an exception in this land of "‘clasts." We then struck +over the stony divide to the left, towards a fine landmark--a +Khitm, or "block," shaped like a seal cut en cabochon: its name +is the barbarous sounding Khurm el-Badaríyyah. During the ascent, +which was easy, we passed a second strew and scatter of the white +stone broken into small pieces. From the Col, reached at 9.45 +a.m., a descent, vile for camels not for mules, presently landed +us in the Wady Umm Ámil. The left bank of the hideous narrow +gorge showed a line of wells or water-pits, made, said Furayj, by +the Mutakaddimín (veteres),--the Ancients who were probably +Mediævals. Crossing the torrent-gully we left on its right bank +the ruins of large works, especially the upper parallelogram. +After a thirteen miles' ride we halted at 10.40 a.m. under a rock +on the left side, opposite three couthless heaps of water-rolled +stones surrounded by fine quartz. By far the poorest thing we had +yet seen, this "town" had been grandiosely described to the first +Expedition at Zibá. Many blessings were heaped upon the head of +Ámil and his mother: the name, however, as the Sayyid suggested, +is evidently a corruption of Mu'ámil--"the workman, the +employee."[EN#11] I would conjecture that here the slave-miners +were stationed, Old Zibá being the master's abode: our caravan +entitled it El-Lomán--"the bagnio, the prison for galériens." On +the coast-town I procured some specimens of heavy red copper +which had been dug out of a ruined furnace; the metal is +admirable, and it retrieves to a certain extent the lost +reputation of Umm Ámil. + +At noon we resumed a hot ride down the ugly, rocky watercourse, +both of whose banks showed long lines of ruins. Presently, +crossing a divide marked by two stone-heaps, we fell into the +broader but equally unpicturesque Wady Salmá. It is on about the +same parallel as Ziba' (north lat. 27° 20'); and more than the +usual allowance for the error of low latitude must be admitted if +we would identify it with the Mediterranean <Greek> of +Ptolemy (vi. 7), <Greek>, in north lat. 260°, or fifteen +miles south of Sóaka. + +Wady Salmá is the smallest and the northernmost of the three +basins which we have just visited; the central being the Dámah, +and the southern Wady Shaghab-Aslah-Aznab. Steaming southwards we +shall note the mouths of all these watercourses. We presently +passed on the right bank the debouchure of the Wady Ruways, and +left there a guard to direct the caravan, in case it should +disobey orders, and march up to Umm Ámil. Here the valley gave +forage to a herd of milch-camels, apparently unguarded; each had +her foal, some newborn, others dating from January or February. +After one hour and forty-five minutes (= six miles) we camped on +the fine sands that floor the dull line hemmed in by tall masses +of red and green trap. The adjacent scatter of Arab wells in the +bed is known as the Má el-Badí'ah. I carefully inquired +concerning ruins in the neighbourhood; and we climbed the +torrent-sides to command a (very limited) bird's-eye view of the +hills. According to the guides, there are no remains of the "old +ones" nearer than Umm Ámil + +Setting out early next morning (5.45 a.m., March 5th), after half +an hour down the Wady Salmá, we saw its lower course becoming a +mere gorge, constricted by two opposite rocks. On the left bank, +above this narrow, lies a group of Arab graves, which may have +been built upon older foundations. The right side here receives +the Wady Haraymal ("Little Peganum-plant"), the Haráímil of the +broad-speaking Bedawin. As we struck up its dull ascent, the +southern form of the Shárr-giant suddenly broke upon us, all +glorious in his morning robes of ethereal gauzy pink. The +foreshortened view, from the south as well as the north, shows a +compact prism-formed mass which has been compared with an +iceberg. The main peak, Abú Shenázir, here No. 4 from the north, +proudly bears a mural crown of granite towers, which it hides +from El-Muwaylah; and the southern end, a mere vanishing ridge at +this angle, but shown en face to the seaboard abreast of it, +breaks into three distinctly marked bluffs and heads.[EN#12] + +A divide then led upwards and downwards to the Wady Abá Rikayy, +remarkable only for warm pools, and crystal-clear runners, +springing from the sole. The fringings of white show the presence +of salt; the shallows are covered with the greenest mosses, and +beetles chase one another over the depths where the waters sleep. +The lower course takes the name of Wady Kifáfí, and discharges +into the sea north of the Wady Salmá, with which it has +erroneously been united, as in Niebuhr's Selmá wa Kafâfa. +According to the Kátib Chelebi, who, over two centuries ago, made +the "Kabr Shaykh el-Kifáfí" the second pilgrim-station south of +El-Muwaylah, a certain Bedawi chief, El-Kifáfí, was killed with a +spear, and his tomb became a place of pious visitation. It is +said still to exist between the Wadys Salmá and Kifáfí. A third +divide to the north led along the eastern flank of the Jebel Abú +Rísh, which exposes its head to the sea; and, reaching the Col, +we had the pleasure of once more greeting the blue cove that +forms the port of Zibá. + +We then descended into the Wady Sidrah, whose left bank is formed +by the Safrá Zibá--"the Yellow (hill) of Zibá." This small +outlying peak is clad in the gaudiest of colours, especially a +vivid citron-yellow, set off by red and rusty surroundings, which +are streaked with a dead chalky-white. The citizens declare that +it is absolutely useless, because it does not supply sulphur. +During our day's halt at Zibá, M. Marie brought from it quartz of +several kinds; the waxy, the heat-altered, and the blue, stained +with carbonate of copper. Possibly this metal may be abundant at +a lower horizon + +The "Valley of the (one) Jujube-tree," after narrowing to a stony +gut, suddenly flares out into the Wady Zibá, the vulgar feature of +these regions, provided with the normal "Gate" some three hundred +yards broad. Beyond it, the flat surrounding the head of the cove is +remarkably well grown with palms, clumps of the Daum, and scattered +date-trees, of which one is walled round. Hence I am disposed to +consider Zibá the <Greek>, or Phoenicon Vicus, of Ptolemy: although +he places it in north lat. 26° 20', or between Sharm Dumayghah and +El-Wijh, when it lies in north lat. 27° 20'. I have already +protested against the derivation of the word--which is written +"Dhoba" by Wallin, "Deba" by Niebuhr, and "Zibber" by the +Hydrographic Chart--proposed by my learned friend Sprenger.[EN#13] +His theory was probably suggested by El-Yákút (iii. 464), who, in +the twelfth century, describes "Dhabba" as "a village on the coast, +opposite to which is a settlement with flowing water, called Badá: +the two are separated by seventy miles." An older name for the +station is Bir el-Sultáni--the "Well of the Sultán" (Selim?): we +shall presently inspect these remains. Itineraries also give Kabr +el-Tawáshi, "the Eunuch's Tomb;" and this we still find near the +palms at the head of the inner baylet. It is a square measuring six +paces each way, mud and coralline showing traces of plaster outside. +Like Wellsted (II. X.) we failed to discover any sign of the Birkat +("tank") mentioned in a guide-book which Burckhardt quotes; nor had +the citizens ever heard of a "reservoir." + +The camping-ground of the pilgrims lies between the "Gate" and +the cove-head. Around the wells sat at squat a small gathering of +the filthy "Moghrebin" (Allah yakharrib-hum!). About 260 of these +rufffians were being carried gratis, by some charitable merchant, +in a Sambúk that lay at the harbour-mouth. A party had lately +slaughtered a camel, of course not their own property; and yet +they wondered that the Bedawin shoot them. They showed their +insolence by threatening with an axe the dog Juno, when she +sportively sallied out to greet them; and were highly offended +because, in view of cholera and smallpox, I stationed sentries to +keep them at a distance. Had there been contagious disease among +them, it would have spread in no time. They haunted the wells, +which were visited all day by women driving asses from the +settlement; even the single old beggar of Zibá--unfailing sign of +civilization--was here; and the black tents of the Arabs, who +grazed their flocks at the cove-head, lay within easy shot of +infection. On the evening of the next day, when the Sambúk made +sail, the shouting and screaming, the brawling, cudgelling, and +fighting, heard a mile off, reminded me of the foul company of +Maghrabís on board the Golden Wire. + +"Sultán Selim's Well" has now grown to four, all large and +masonry-lined. That to the south-east is dry; travellers are +confined to the western, whose strong coping they have managed to +tear down; whilst the northern shows hard old kerb-stones, deeply +grooved and rope-channelled like that of Beersheba. We +breakfasted at the head of the inner bay, whilst the Sayyid rode +forward to meet his brother Mahmúd, who had kindly brought us the +news from El-Muwaylah. Here we could see the townlet covering a +low point projecting into the Sharm; a few large and some small +tenements formed the body, whilst the head was the little Burj +built, some fourteen years ago, upon the tall sea-bank to the +north. It bore, by way of welcome, the Viceroy's flag. + +The camp was pitched upon the northern shore of the inner cove, +behind the new town, and sheltered by the tall sea-cliff: here +stood Old Zibá, whose stones, buried for ages under the sand, are +now dug up to build its successor. I thought better of the +settlement and of the port after visiting them a second time. We +had looked forward to it even as to a petit Paris: so Damascus +and the Syrian cities appear centres of civilization to Westerns +coming from the East--not from the West. It is far superior, +especially in the article water, to El-Muwaylah; it exports +charcoal in large quantities, and it does a thriving business +with the Bedawi. Here are signs of a pier, and a mosque is to be +built. The fish is excellent and abundant; lobsters are caught by +night near the reef, and oysters in the bay when the tide is out. +We succeeded, at last, in having our batterie de cuisine properly +tinned, and we replenished our stores.[EN#14] As at El-‘Akabah, +"Hashísh" may be bought in any quantity, but no ‘Ráki--hence, +perhaps, the paleness and pastiness of the local complexion--and +yet our old acquaintance, Mohammed el-Musalmáni, is a Copt who +finds it convenient to be a Moslem. He aided us in collecting +curiosities, especially a chalcedony (agate) intended for a +talisman and roughly inscribed in Kufic characters, archaic and +pointed like Bengali, with the Koranic chapter (xcii.) that +testifies the Unity, "Kul, Huw' Allah," etc. As regards the port, +Wellsted (Il. X.) is too severe upon it: "At Sherm Dhobá the +anchorage is small and inconvenient, and could only be made +available for boats or small vessels." Dredging the sand-bar and +cutting a passage in the soft coralline reef will give excellent +shelter and, some say, a depth of seventeen fathoms. + +Our first care was to walk straight into the sea, travelling +clothes and all. I then received the notables, including Mohammed +Selámah of El-Wijh, and at once began to inquire about the Jebel +el-Fayrúz. The chief trader pleaded ignorance: he was a stranger, +a new-comer; he had never been out of the settlement. The others +opposed to me hard and unmitigated Iying: they knew nothing about +turquoises; there were no such stones; the mines were exhausted. + +And yet I knew that this coast is visited for turquoises by +Europeans; and that the gem has been, and still is, sold at Suez +and Cairo. Mr. Clarke had many uncut specimens at Zagázig, +embedded in a dark gangue, which he called "porphyry," as opposed +to the limestone which bears the silicate of copper. Upon our +first Expedition, we had noticed a splendid specimen, set in a +Bedawi matchlock; and the people of El-‘Akabah praised highly the +produce of the Jebel el-Ghál. Lastly, I happened to have heard +that an Arab lately brought to Zibá a turquoise which sold there +for £3. Evidently the mine, like the gold-sands before alluded +to, would be carefully hidden from us. This reticence explained +how, on our first visit, the two Staff-officers sent to prospect +the diggings had been misdirected to a block lying north of the +townlet, the "Red Hills," alias the Jebel el-Shegayg. + +Shortly after I left Egypt an Italian, Sig. F--, returned to Suez +from El-Muwaylah, with some fine pearls worth each from £20 to +£30, and turquoises which appeared equally good. He was then +bound for Italy, but he intended returning to Midian in a month +or two. These are the men who teach the ready natives the very +latest "dodges;" such as stimulating the peculiar properties of +the pearl-oyster by inserting grains of sand. + +I also collected notes concerning the ruins of M'jirmah, of which +we had heard so many tales. The site, they said, is a branch of +the Wady Azlam, the first of the three marches between Zibá and +El-Wijh, and seven and a half hours' sail along the coast. This +watercourse shows, above the modern Hajj-station, the ruins of a +fort built by Sultán Selim: Wellsted (II. X.) also mentions a +castle lying three miles inland. From the head of the Sharm +Dumayghah, seventy to seventy-two knots south of El-Muwaylah, +Shaykh Furayj pointed out to us the pale-blue peaks of the Jebel +Zafar:[EN#15] in the upper part of its Wady, the ‘Amúd Zafar, a +southern branch valley of the Azlam, lies the ruin. He made it +six hours' march from the seaboard. It was an ancient gold-mine +(?), whose house-foundations and a "well with steps" still +remain. "M'jirmah," which must not be confounded with the "Umm +Jirmah," an atelier that we shall visit to-morrow, has been +identified with the <Greek> (Rhaunathi Pagus) of Ptolemy +(north lat. 25° 40'). We will return to this subject when +steaming down coast. + +Our day of rest ended, at seven p.m., with a heavy storm of wind +and rain from the north: the sun had been unusually hot for some +days, and the sky looked ugly in the evening. As usual, all +assured us that the clouds contained wind, not rain. Despite +which, when the mess-tent had been nearly blown down, owing to +our men being unwilling to leave their warm retreats, a heavy +drenching downfall set in, and continued till eleven p.m. After a +short lull, wind and rain again raged at midnight; and then the +gale gradually blew itself out. The next two mornings were +delightfully brisk and bracing; and deep puddles dotted the +rocks. + +On March 7th the caravan marched straight northwards, by the +Hajj-road, along the shore to its camping-ground, an affair of +two hours, while M. Marie and I set off for the turquoise mine. +Furayj, who had never passed that way, engaged as guide one +Sulaym el-Makrafi; and this old dromedary-rider's son had been +sent on to bring into camp all the Fayruz he could find. Crossing +at six a.m. the broad pilgrim-track, we struck eastward at a +place where the Secondary gypsum subtends the old coralline +cliff. After three-quarters of an hour, we traversed the Wady +Zahakán, the southernmost Pass over the Shárr (proper); and +presently we ascended a branch that falls into the right bank. As +we advanced, it became a rock-walled, stonesoled tunnel; winding, +contracting and widening, rising and flattening, and generally +interesting, compared with the dull flat breadth of such features +as the Wady Salmá. The overfalls of rock and the unfriendly +thorn-trees, selfishly taking up all the room, necessitate +frequent zigzags up and down the rocky, precipitous banks. After +a number of divides we entered the Wady Háskshah, which was wider +and good for riding; and at 8.30 a.m. we passed into the Wady Umm +Jirmah. + +In this broad basin we found none of the ruins so often reported; +but immense quantities of broken quartz showed the Mashghal or +atelier. The material was distinguished, from all the outcrops +hitherto observed, by its pretty pink, stained with oxide of +iron: it appeared in large ramifications mostly striking +east-west, and in little pitons dotting the valley sole and +sides. A subsequent visit to Wady Umm Jirmah found many furnaces +surrounded by well-worked scoriae; of these, specimens were +secured. + +After another half-hour, we dismounted at the watershed of the +Wady el-Ghál, where the old guide lost no time in losing his +head. The Jebel el-Ghál, whose folds fall into its watercourse, +is a detached block, rising nearly due south of the "Sharp Peak," +as the Chart calls Abú Kusayb, the northernmost horn of the +Shárr; while the Ghál cove, breaking the sea-cliff, bears 270° +(mag.) from the summit. The hill, which may measure 250 feet +above sea-level (aner. 29.75), is composed of porphyritic trap +and of the hardest felspars, veined with chocolate-coloured +quartz, the true gangue. While we examined the formation, Furayj +and old Sulaym, who became more and more "moony," ransacked the +block in all directions, and notably failed to find a trace of +mining. Evidently Athor, the genius of the "Turquoise Mountain," +was not to be conquered by a coup de main; so I determined to +tire her out. + +After building a stone-man on the finial of the Jebel el-Ghál, +and a short rest in the north-western Wady, we remounted and +struck seawards. Some ugly divides led us, after half an hour, to +a broad Fiumara, well grown with palm-bush, the veritable Wady +el-Ghál. From this point a total of four miles, and a grand total +of fourteen, led us to the camp: it had been pitched at the +Mahattat el-Gha'l, on the north bank, where the "winter-torrent," +falling into the cove, has broken through the sea cliff. + +Here the best of news was in store for us. Lieutenant Yusuf, who +had this morning rejoined the Expedition, brought our mails from +the Sambúk, which I had ordered by letter at El-‘Akabah; and +reported that his Highness's frigate Sinnár, an old friend, would +relieve the lively Mukhbir in taking us to our last journey +southwards. Rations for men and mules, and supplies for +ourselves, all were coming. We felt truly grateful to the Viceroy +and the Prince Minister for the gracious interest they had taken +in the Expedition; and we looked forward with excitement to the +proper finish of our labours. Without the third march, the +exploration of Midian would have been Abtar, as the Arabs say, +"tail-less;" that is, lame and impotent in point of conclusion. + +But I would not be beaten by the enemy upon the subject of the +lapis Pharanitis mine. During the course of the day, a Jeráfín +Bedawi, Selím ibn Musallim, brought in scoriae of copper and +iron; and on the morrow I sent him as guide to Lieutenant Yusuf, +with an escort of two soldiers and eight quarrymen on seven +camels. After three days' absence (March 8--10) the officer +rejoined us and reported as follows:-- + +Leaving the Mahattat el-Ghál, he rode up its watercourse, and +then turned southwards into the long Wady Umm Jirmah. After seven +miles and a half (= direct five and three-quarters), he came upon +the Jebel el-Fayrúz. It is a rounded eminence of no great height, +showing many signs of work, especially three or four cuttings +some twenty metres deep. A hillock to the north-west supplied the +scoriæ before mentioned. Lieutenant Yusuf blasted the +chocolate-coloured quartzose rock in four places, filled as many +sacks, and struck the pilgrim-road in the Wady el-Mu'arrash, +leaving its red block, the Hamrá el-Mu'arrash, to the left. His +specimens were very satisfactory; except to the learned +geologists of the Citadel, Cairo, who pronounced them to be +carbonate of copper! Dr. L. Karl Moser, of Trieste, examined them +and found crystals of turquoise, or rather "johnite," as Dana has +it, embedded in or spread upon the quartz. One specimen, +moreover, contained silver. So much for the Zibá or southern +turquoise-diggings. + +Our journey ended on March 8th with a dull ride along the +Hajj-road northwards. Passing the creek Abú Sharír, which, like +many upon this coast, is rendered futile by a wall of coral reef, +we threaded a long flat, and after two hours (= seven miles) we +entered a valley where the Secondary formation again showed its +débris. Here is the Mahattat el-Husan ("the Stallion's Leap"), a +large boulder lying to the left of the track, and pitted with +holes which a little imagination may convert into hoof-prints. +The name of the noble animal was El-Mashhúr; that of its owner +is, characteristically enough, forgotten by the Arabs: it lived +in the Days of Ignorance; others add, more vaguely still, when +the Beni ‘Ukbah, the lords of the land, were warring with the +Baliyy. The gorge was then a mere cutting, blocked up by this +rock. El-Mashhúr "negotiated" it, alighting upon the surface like +a Galway hunter taking a stone wall; and carried to Wady Tiryam +its rider, whose throat was incontinently cut by the foeman in +pursuit. The legend is known to all, and the Bedawin still scrape +away the sands which threaten to bury the boulder: it has its +value, showing that in regions where the horse is now unknown, +where, in fact, nothing but a donkey can live, noble blood was +once bred. The same remark is made by Professor Palmer ("The +Desert of the Exodus," p. 42) concerning the Mangaz Hisán Abú +Zená ("Leap of the Stallion of the Father of Adultery"), two +heaps of stone near the Sinaitic Wady Gharandal. There, however, +the animal is cursed, while here it is blessed: perhaps, also, +the Midianite tradition may descend from a source which, still +older, named the <Greek>. Is this too far-fetched? And yet, +peradventure, it may be true. + +We then fell into the Wady Jibbah; passed the Jebel el-Kibrít, +examined M. Philipin's work, and, led over a very vile and very +long "short cut," found ourselves once more on board the Mukhbir. + + + + + + Note on the Supplies Procurable at Zibá. + + + +The chief stores are:-- + +Rice (good Yemani), per Kis, or bag of five and a half Kaylah +(each twenty-one Ratl = eighteen pounds), four to six dollars. + +Durrah (Sorghum), per Ardebb (each = twelve Kaylah), seven and a +half to eight dollars. + +Dukhn (millet), not common, per Ardebb, eight dollars. + +Wheat, always procurable, per Ardebb, ten to twelve dollars. + +Barley, always procurable, per Ardebb, five to six dollars. + +‘Adas (lentils, Revalenta Arabica), per Ardebb, ten to twelve + +Samn (liquified butter), per Ratl, seven and a half to eight +dollars. + +Coffee (green), per pound, eighteen-pence. + +‘Ajwah (pressed dates), 100 to 110 piastres per Kantar (= 100 +Ratl). + +Eggs, thirty-five to the shilling. + +It is generally possible to buy small quantities of Hummus +(lupins or chick-peas), Kharru'b (carob-pods), "hot" and coarse +tobacco for the Arabs, and cigarette-paper, matches, etc. + + + + + + Chapter XIII. + A Week Around and upon the Shárr Mountain–Résumé of the March + Through Eastern or Central Midian. + + + +For months the Jebel Shárr, the grand block which backs +El-Muwaylah, had haunted us, starting up unexpectedly in all +directions, with its towering heads, that shifted shape and +colour from every angle, and with each successive change of +weather. We could hardly leave unexplored the classical "Hippos +Mons," the Moslem's El-Ishárah ("the Landmark"), and the +Bullock's Horns of the prosaic British tar.[EN#16] The few vacant +days before the arrival of the Sinnár offered an excellent +opportunity for studying the Alpine ranges of maritime Midian. +Their stony heights, they said, contain wells and water in +abundance, with palms, remains of furnaces, and other +attractions. Every gun was brought into requisition, by tales of +leopard and ibex, the latter attaining the size of bullocks (!) +and occasionally finding their way to the fort:--it was curious +to hear our friends, who, as usual, were great upon "le shport," +gravely debating whether it would be safe to fire upon le +léopard. I was anxious to collect specimens of botany and natural +history from an altitude hitherto unreached by any traveller in +Western Arabia; and, lastly, there was geography as well as +mineralogy to be done. + +The Hydrographic Chart gives the Mountain a maximum of nine +thousand[EN#17] feet, evidently a clerical error often +repeated--really those Admiralty gentleman are too incurious: +Wellsted, who surveyed it, remarks (II. X.), "The height of the +most elevated peak was found to be 6500 feet, and it obtained +from us the appellation of ‘Mowilabh High Peak"'--when there are +native names for every head. We had been convinced that the +lesser is the true measure, by our view from the Hismá plateau, +3800 feet above sea-level. Again, the form, the size, and the +inclination of the noble massif are wrongly laid down by the +hydrographers. It is a compact block, everywhere rising abruptly +from low and sandy watercourses, and completely detached from its +neighbours by broad Wadys--the Surr to the north and east, while +southwards run the Kuwayd and the Zahakán. The huge long-oval +prism measures nineteen and a half by five miles (= ninety-seven +and a half square miles of area); and its lay is 320° (mag.), +thus deflected 40° westward of the magnetic north. The general +appearance, seen in profile from the west, is a Pentedactylon, a +central apex, with two others on each side, tossed, as it were, +to the north and south, and turning, like chiens de faïence, +their backs upon one another. + +Moreover, the Chart assigns to its "Mount Mowilah" only two great +culminations--"Sharp Peak, 6330 feet," to the north; and south of +it, "High Peak, 9000." The surveyors doubtless found difficulty +in obtaining the Bedawi names for the several features, which are +unknown to the citizens of the coast; but they might easily have +consulted the only authorities, the Jeráfín-Huwaytát, who graze +their flocks and herds on and around the mountain. As usual in +Arabia, the four several main "horns" are called after the +Fiumaras that drain them. The northernmost is the Abú Gusayb +(Kusayb) or Ras el-Gusayb (the "Little Reed"), a unity composed +of a single block and of three knobs in a knot; the tallest of +the latter, especially when viewed from the south, resembles an +erect and reflexed thumb--hence our "Sharp Peak." Follows Umm +el-Furút (the "Mother of Plenty"), a mural crest, a quoin-shaped +wall, cliffing to the south: the face, perpendicular where it +looks seawards, bears a succession of scars, upright gashes, the +work of wind and weather; and the body which supports it is a +slope disposed at the natural angle. An innominatus, in the shape +of a similar quoin, is separated by a deep Col, apparently a +torrent-bed, from a huge Beco de Papagaio--the "Parrot's Bill" so +common in the Brazil. This is the Abú Shenázir or Shaykhánib (the +"Father of Columns"); and, as if two names did not suffice, it +has a third, Ras el-Huwayz ("of the Little Cistern"). It is our +"High Peak," the most remarkable feature of the sea-façade, even +when it conceals the pair of towering pillars that show +conspicuously to the north and south. From the beak-shaped apex +the range begins to decline and fall; there is little to notice +in the fourth horn, whose unimportant items, the Ras Lahyánah, +the Jebel Maí'h, and the Umm Gisr (Jisr), end the wall. Each has +its huge white Wady, striping the country in alternation with +dark-brown divides, and trending coastwards in the usual network. + +The material of the four crests is the normal grey granite, +enormous lumps and masses rounded by degradation; all chasms and +naked columns, with here and there a sheet burnished by ancient +cataracts, and a slide trickling with water, unseen in the shade +and flashing in the sun like a sheet of crystal. The granite, +however, is a mere mask or excrescence, being everywhere based +upon and backed by the green and red plutonic traps which have +enveloped it. And the prism has no easy inland slopes, as a first +glance suggests; instead of being the sea-wall of a great +plateau, it falls abruptly to the east as well as to the west. +The country behind it shows a perspective of high and low hills, +lines of dark rock divided from one another by Wadys of the usual +exaggerated size. Of these minor heights only one, the Jebel +el-Sahhárah looks down upon the sea, rising between the +Dibbagh-Kh'shabríyyah block to the north, and the Shárr to the +south. Beyond the broken eastern ground, the ruddy Hismá and the +gloomy Harrah form the fitting horizon. + +After this much for geography, we may view the monarch of +Midianite mountains in the beauty and the majesty of his +picturesque form. Seen from El-Muwaylah, he is equally +magnificent in the flush of morning, in the still of noon, and in +the evening glow. As the rays, which suggested the obelisk, are +shooting over the southern crests, leaving the basement blue with +a tint between the amethyst and the lapis lazuli, its northern +third lies wrapped in a cloak of cold azure grey, and its central +length already dons a half-light of warmer hue. Meanwhile, the +side next the sun is flooded with an aerial aureole of subtle +mist, a drift of liquid gold, a gush of living light, rippling +from the unrisen orb, decreasing in warmth and brilliancy, paling +and fading and waxing faint with infinite gradations proportioned +to the increase of distance. Again, after the clear brooding +sheen of day has set off the "stark strength and grandeur of +rock-form contrasted with the brilliancy and sprightliness of +sea," the sinking sun paints the scene with the most gorgeous of +blazonings. The colours of the pale rock-skeleton are so faint +that there is nothing to interfere with the perfect development +of atmospheric effects: it is a white sheet spread to catch the +grand illumination, lambent lights of saffron and peach-blossom +and shades of purple and hyacinth. As indescribably lovely is the +after-glow, the zodiacal light which may have originated the +pyramid; the lively pink reflection from the upper atmosphere; +the vast variety of tints with which the greens and the reds, the +purples and the fiery crimsons of the western sky tincture the +receptive surface of the neutral-hued granites; and the +chameleon-shiftings of the dying day, as it sinks into the arms +of night. Nor less admirable are the feats of the fairy +Refraction. The mighty curtain seems to rise and fall as if by +magic: it imitates, as it were, the framework of man. In early +morning the dancing of the air adds many a hundred cubits to its +apparent stature: it is now a giant, when at midnight, after the +equipoise of atmospheric currents, it becomes a dwarf replica of +its former self. + + * * * * * * + +I had neglected to order overnight the camels from El-Muwaylah, a +penny-wise proceeding which delayed our departure. It was nearly +nine a.m. (March 13th) before we left the Mukhbir, whose +unhappies still sighed and yearned for the civilization and +dissipation of Suez; landed at the head of the Sharm Yáhárr, and +marched up the Wady Hárr. We were guided by two Jeráfín, Sulayman +ibn Musallim and Farj ibn ‘Awayz; the former a model hill-man, a +sturdy, thick-legged, huge-calved, gruff-voiced, full-bearded +fellow, hot-tempered, good-humoured, and renowned as an +ibex-hunter. His gun, marked "Lazari Coitinaz," was a +long-barrelled Spanish musket, degraded to a matchlock: it had +often changed hands, probably by theft, and the present owner +declared that he had bought it for seventy dollars--nearly £15! +Yet its only luxury was the bottom of a breechloader brass +cartridge, inlaid and flanked by the sharp incisors of the little +Wabar, or mountain coney. These Bedawin make gunpowder for +themselves; they find saltpetre in every cavern, and they buy +from Egypt the sulphur which is found in their own hills. + +After a few minutes we left the Hárr, which drains the tallest of +the inland hillock-ranges, and the red block "Hamrá el-Maysarah;" +and we struck south-east into the Wady Sanawíyyah. It is a vulgar +valley with a novelty, the Tamrat Faraj. This cairn of +brick-coloured boulders buttressing the right bank has, or is +said to have, the Memnonic property of emitting sounds--Yarinn is +the Bedawi word. The boomings and bellowings are said to be +loudest at sunrise and sunset. The "hideous hum" of such +subterraneous thunderings is alluded to by all travellers in the +Dalmatian Island of Melada, and in the Narenta Valley. The marvel +has been accounted for by the escape of imprisoned air unequally +expanded, but "a veil of mystery hangs over the whole."[EN#18] +The valley-sides of dark trap were striped with white veins of +heat-altered argil; the sole with black magnetic sand; and +patches of the bed were buttercup-yellow with the Handán +(dandelion), the Cytisus, and the Zaram (Panicum turgidum) loved +by camels. Their jaundiced hue contrasted vividly with the red +and mauve blossoms of the boragine El-Kahlá, the blue flowerets +of the Lavandula (El-Zayti), and the delicate green of the +useless[EN#19] asphodel (El-Borag), which now gave a faint and +shadowy aspect of verdure to the slopes. Although the rise was +inconsiderable, the importance of the vegetation palpably +decreased as we advanced inland. + +After four miles we reached the Wady-head, and wasted a couple of +hours awaiting the camels that carried our supplies. The path +then struck over a stony divide, with the Hamrá to the left or +north, and on the other side the Hamrá el-Mu'arrash, made +familiar to us by our last march. The latter ends in an isolated +peak, the Jebel Gharghúr, which, on our return, was mistaken for +the sulphur-hill of Jibbah. Presently we renewed acquaintance +with the Wady el-Bayzá, whose lower course we had crossed south +of Sharm Yáhárr: here it is a long and broad, white and +tree-dotted expanse, glaring withal, and subtending all this +section of the Shárr's sea-facing base. We reached, after a total +of eight miles, the Jibál el-Kawáim, or "the Perpendiculars," one +of the features which the Bedawin picturesquely call the Aulád +el-Shárr ("Sons of the Sha'rr"). The three heads, projected +westwards from the Umm Furút peak and then trending northwards, +form a lateral valley, a bay known as Wady el-Káimah. It is a +picturesque feature with its dark sands and red grit, while the +profile of No. 3 head, the Káimat Abú Rákí, shows a snub-nosed +face in a judicial wig, the trees forming an apology for a beard. +I thought of "Buzfuz Bovill." + +We camped early, as the Safh el-Shárr (the "Plain of the Shárr") +and the lateral valley were found strewed with quartzes, white, +pink, and deep slate-blue. The guides had accidentally mentioned +a "Jebel el-Marú," and I determined to visit it next morning. The +night was warm and still. The radiation of heat from the huge +rock-range explained the absence of cold, so remarkable during +all this excursion--hence the African traveller ever avoids +camping near bare stones. Dew, however, wetted our boxes like +thin rain: the meteor, remarked for the first time on March 13th, +will last, they say, three months, and will greatly forward +vegetation. It seems to be uncertain, or rather to be influenced +by conditions which we had no opportunity of studying: at times +it would be exceptionally heavy, and in other places it was +entirely absent. Before evening new contract-boots, bought from +the Mukhbir, were distributed to the soldiers and all the +quarrymen, who limped painfully on their poor bare feet:--next +day all wore their well-hidden old boots. + +Early on March 14th we ascended the Wady el-Káimah, which showed +a singular spectacle, and read us another lecture upon the +diversity of formation which distinguishes this region. An abrupt +turn then led over rough ground, the lower folds of the Umm +Furút, where a great granite gorge, the Nakb Abú Shár, ran up to +a depression in the dorsum, an apparently practicable Col. +Suddenly the rocks assumed the quaintest hues and forms. The +quartz, slaty-blue and black, was here spotted and streaked with +a dull, dead white, as though stained by the droppings of myriad +birds: there it lay veined and marbled with the most vivid of +rainbow colours-- reds and purples, greens and yellows, set off +by the pale chalky white. Evident signs of work were remarked in +a made road running up to the Jebel el-Marú (proper), whose +strike is 38° (mag.), and whose dip is westward. It is an arête, +a cock's-comb of snowy quartz some sixty feet high by forty-five +broad at the base; crowning a granitic fold that descends +abruptly, with a deep fall on either side, from the "Mother of +Plenty." This strangely isolated wall, left standing by the +denudation that swept away the containing stone, had been broken +by perpendicular rifts into four distinct sections; the colour +became whiter as it neared the coping, and each rock was crowned +with a capping that sparkled like silver in the sudden glance of +the "cloud-compelling" sun. The sight delighted us; and M. Lacaze +here made one of his most effective croquis, showing the +explorers reduced to the size of ants. As yet we had seen nothing +of the kind; nor shall we see a similar vein till we reach +Abú'l-Marwah, near our farthest southern point. I expected a +corresponding formation upon the opposite eastern versant: we +found only a huge crest, a spine of black plutonic rock, +intensely ugly and repulsive. As we rode back down the "Valley of +the Perpendiculars," the aspect of the Jebel el-Marú was +épâtant--to use another favourite camp-word. Standing sharply out +from its vague and gloomy background made gloomier by the morning +mists, the Col, whose steep rain-cut slopes and sole were +scattered with dark trees and darker rocks, this glittering wall +became the shell of an enchanted castle in Gustave Doré. + +Returning to our old camping-ground after a ride of three hours +and thirty minutes (= nine miles), we crossed two short divides, +and descended the Wady el-Kusayb, which gives a name to "Sharp +Peak." Here a few formless stone-heaps and straggling bushes +represented the ruins, the gardens of palms, and the bullrushes +of the Bedawi shepherd lads.[EN#20] Our tents had been pitched in +the rond-point of the Wady Surr, which before had given us +hospitality (February 19th), on a Safh or high bouldery ledge of +the left bank, where it receives the broad Kusayb watercourse. +The day had been sultry; the sun was a "rain sun," while the +clouds massed thick to the south-west; and at night the lamps of +heaven shone with a reddish, lurid light. The tent-pegs were +weighted with camel-boxes against the storm; nevertheless, our +mess-tent was levelled in a moment by the howling +north-easter--warm withal--which, setting in about midnight, made +all things uncomfortable enough. + +Whilst the caravan was ordered to march straight up the noble +Wady Surr, we set off next morning at six a.m. up the Wady Malíh, +the north-eastern branch of the bulge in the bed. A few Arab +tents were scattered about the bushes above the mouth; and among +the yelping curs was a smoky-faced tyke which might have been +Eskimo-bred:--hereabouts poor ‘Brahim had been lost, and was not +fated to be found. A cross-country climb led to the Jebel Malíh, +whose fame for metallic wealth gave us the smallest +expectations--hitherto all our discoveries came by surprise. A +careful examination showed nothing at all; but a few days +afterwards glorious specimens of cast copper were brought in, the +Bedawi declaring that he had found them amongst the adjoining +hills. In the re-entering angles of the subjacent Wady the thrust +of a stick is everywhere followed by the reappearance of +stored-up rain, and the sole shows a large puddle of brackish and +polluted water. Perhaps the Malayh of the Bedawin may mean "the +salt" (Málih), not "the pleasant" (Malíh). Malíh, or Mallih, is +also the name of a plant, the Reaumuria vernice of Forskâl. + +Resuming our ride up the torrent-bed, and crossing to the Wady +Daumah (of the "Single Daum-palm"), we dragged our mules down a +ladder of rock and boulder, the left bank of the upper Surr. The +great valley now defines, sharply as a knife-cut, the +northernmost outlines of the Shárr, whose apex, El-Kusayb, +towered above our heads. Thorn-trees are abundant; fan-palm bush +grows in patches; and we came upon what looked like a flowing +stream ruffled by the morning breeze: the guides declared that it +is a rain-pool, dry as a bone in summer. Presently the rocky bed +made a sharp turn; and its "Gate," opened upon another widening, +the meeting place of four Wadys, the northern being the Wady +Zibayyib that drains ruddy Abá‘l-bárid. + +After a short halt to examine the rude ruins reported by Mr. +Clarke,[EN#21] we resumed the ascent of the Surr, whose left bank +still defines the eastern edge of the Shárr. The latter presently +puts forth the jagged spine of black and repulsive plutonic rock, +which notes the Sha'b Makhúl, the corresponding versant of the +Nakb Abú Sha'r. The Bedawin, who, as usual, luxuriate in +nomenclature, distinguish between the eastern and western faces +of the same block, and between the Wadys of the scarp and the +counter-scarp. For instance, the eastern front of the Ras +el-Kusayb is called Abú Kurayg (Kurayj). This is natural, as the +formations, often of a different material, show completely +different features. + +A little further on, the continuity of the right bank is broken +by the Wady el-Hámah. It receives the Wady Kh'shabríyyah, which, +bifurcating in the upper bed, drains the Dibbagh and the Umm +Jedayl blocks; and in the fork lie, we were told, the ruins of +El-Fara', some five hours' march from this section of the Surr. +At the confluence of El-Hámah we found the camels grazing and the +tents pitched without orders: the two Shaykhs were determined to +waste another day, so they were directed to reload while we +breakfasted. Everything was in favour of a long march; the dusty, +gusty north-easter had blown itself out in favour of a pleasant +southerly wind, a sea breeze deflected from the west. + +After marching three miles we camped at the foot of the ridge to +be ascended next morning: the place is called Safhat el-Mu'ayrah +from a slaty schistose hill on the eastern bank. The guides +declared that the only practicable line to the summit was from +this place; and that the Sha'bs (Cols) generally cannot be +climbed even by the Arabs--I have reason to believe the reverse. +Musallim, an old Bedawi, brought, amongst other specimens from +the adjacent atelier, the Mashghal el-Mu'ayrah, a bright bead +about the size of No. 5 shot: in the evening dusk it was taken +for gold, and it already aroused debates concerning the proper +direction of the promised reward, fifty dollars. The morning +light showed fine copper. Here free metal was distinctly +traceable in the scoriæ, and it was the first time that we had +seen slag so carelessly worked. Not a little merriment was caused +by the ostentatious display of "gold-stones," marked by M. +Philipin's copper-nailed boots. Sulaymán, the Bedawi, had killed +a Wabar, whose sadly mutilated form appeared to be that of the +Syrian hill coney: these men split the bullet into four; "pot" at +the shortest distance, and, of course, blow to pieces any small +game they may happen to hit. + +Early on March 16th we attacked the Shárr in a general direction +from north to south, where the ascent looked easy enough. On the +left bank a porphyritic block, up whose side a mule can be +ridden, is disposed in a slope of the palest and most languid of +greens, broken by piles of black rock so regular as to appear +artificial. This step leads to a horizontal crest, a broken wall +forming its summit: it is evidently an outlier; and experience +asked, What will be behind it? The more distant plane showed only +the heads of the Shenázir or "Pins," the two quaint columns which +are visible as far as the Shárr itself. This lower block is +bounded, north and south, by gorges; fissures that date from the +birth of the mountain, deepened by age and raging torrents: +apparently they offered no passage. In the former direction yawns +the Rushúh Abú Tinázib, so called from its growth--the +Tanzub-tree[EN#22] (Sodada decidua); and in the latter the Sháb +Umm Khárgah (Khárjah). I should have preferred a likely looking +Nakb, south of this southern gorge, but the Bedawin, and +especially Abú Khartúm, who had fed his camels and sheep upon the +mountain, overruled me. + +The ascent of the outlier occupied three very slow hours, spent +mostly in prospecting and collecting. At nine a.m. we stood 3200 +feet above sea-level (aner. 26.79), high enough to make our tents +look like bits of white macadam. What most struck us was the +increased importance of the vegetation, both in quantity and +quality; the result, doubtless, of more abundant dew and rain, as +well as of shade from each passing mist-cloud. The view formed a +startling contrast of fertility and barrenness. At every hundred +yards the growths of the plain became more luxuriant in the rich +humus filling the fissures, and, contrary to the general rule, +the plants, especially the sorrel (Rumex) and the dandelion +(Taraxacum), instead of dwindling, gained in stature. The +strong-smelling Ferula looked like a bush, and the Sarh grew into +a tree: the Ar'ar,[EN#23] a homely hawthorn (hawthorn-leaved +Rhus), whose appearance was a surprise, equalled the Cratœgus of +Syria; and the upper heights must have been a forest of fine +junipers (Habíbah = Juniperus Phœnicea), with trunks thick as a +man's body. The guides spoke of wild figs, but we failed to find +them. Our chasseurs, who had their guns, eagerly conned over the +traces of ibex and hyenas, and the earths, as well as the large +round footprints, of un léopard; but none of the larger animals +were seen. The Bedawi matchlock has made them wary; chance might +give a shot the first day: on the other hand, skill might be +baffled for a month or two--I passed six weeks upon the +Anti-Libanus before seeing a bear. The noble Shinnár-partridge +again appeared; an eagle's feather lay on the ground; two white +papillons and one yellow butterfly reminded me of the Camarones +Mountain; the wild bee and the ladybird-like Ba'úzah stuck to us +as though they loved us; and we were pestered by the attentions +of the common fly. The Egyptian symbol for "Paul Pry" is supposed +to denote an abundance of organic matter: it musters strong +throughout Midian, even in the dreariest wastes; and it +accompanies us everywhere, whole swarms riding upon our backs. + +The only semblance of climbing was over the crest of brown, +burnished, and quartzless traps. Even there the hands were hardly +required, although our poor feet regretted the want of +Spartelles.[EN#24] Here the track debouched upon an inverted +arch, with a hill, or rather a tall and knobby outcrop of rock, +on either flank of the keystone. The inland or eastward view was +a map of the region over which we had travelled; a panorama of +little chains mostly running parallel with the great range, and +separated from it by Wadys, lateral, oblique, and perpendicular. +Of these torrent-beds some were yellow, others pink, and others +faint sickly green with decomposed trap; whilst all bore a fair +growth of thorn-trees--Acacias and Mimosas. High over and beyond +the monarch of the Shafah Mountains, Jebel Sahhárah, whose blue +poll shows far out at sea, ran the red levels of the Hismá, +backed at a greater elevation by the black-blue Harrah. The whole +Tihámah range, now so familiar to us, assumed a novel expression. +The staple material proved to be blocks and crests of granite, +protruding from the younger plutonics, which enfolded and +enveloped their bases and backs. The one exception was the dwarf +Umm Jedayl, a heap composed only of grey granite. The Jebel +Kh'shabríyyah in the Dibbagh block attracted every eye; the head +was supported by a neck swathed as with an old-fashioned cravat. + +The summit of the outlier is tolerably level, and here the +shepherds had built small hollow piles of dry stone, in which +their newly yeaned lambs are sheltered from the rude blasts. The +view westwards, or towards the sea, which is not seen, almost +justifies by its peculiarity the wild traditions of built wells, +of a "moaning mountain," and of furnaces upon the loftiest +slopes: it is notable that the higher we went, the less we heard +of these features, which at last vanished into thin air. Our +platform is, as I suspected, cut off from the higher plane by a +dividing gorge; but the depth is only three hundred feet, and to +the south it is bridged by a connecting ridge. Beyond it rises +the great mask of granite forming the apex, a bonier skeleton +than any before seen. Down the northern sheet-rocks trickled a +thin stream that caught the sun's eye; thus the ravine is well +supplied with water in two places. South of it rises a tempting +Col, with a slope apparently easy, separating a dull mass of +granite on the right from the peculiar formation to the left. The +latter is a dome of smooth, polished, and slippery grey granite, +evidently unpleasant climbing; and from its landward slope rise +abrupt, as if hand-built, two isolated gigantic "Pins," which can +hardly measure less than four hundred feet in stature. They are +the remains of a sharp granitic comb whose apex was once the +"Parrot's Beak." The mass, formerly mammilated, has been broken +and denticulated by the destruction of softer strata. Already the +lower crest, bounding the Sha'b Umm Khárgah, shows perpendicular +fissures which, when these huge columns shall be gnawed away by +the tooth of Time, will form a new range of pillars for the +benefit of those ascending the Shárr, let us say in about A.D. +10,000. Such are the "Pins" which name the mountain; and which, +concealed from the coast, make so curious a show to the north, +south, and east of this petrified glacier. + +After breaking their fast, M.M. Clarke, Lacaze, and Philipin +volunteered to climb the tempting Col. None of them had ever +ascended a mountain, and they duly despised the obstacles offered +by big rocks distance-dwarfed to paving-stones; and of sharp +angles, especially the upper, perspective-blunted to easy slopes. +However, all three did exceeding well: for such a "forlorn hope" +young recruits are better than old soldiers. They set out at +eleven a.m., and lost no time in falling asunder; whilst the +quarrymen, who accompanied them with the water-skins, shirked +work as usual, lagged behind, sat and slept in some snug hollow, +and returned, when dead-tired of slumber, declaring that they had +missed the "Effendis." + +M. Philipin took singly the sloping side of the connecting ridge; +and, turning to the right, made straight for the "Pins," below +which was spread a fleck of lean and languid green. The ascent +was comparatively mild, except where it became a sheet of smooth +and slippery granite; but when he reached a clump of large +junipers, his course was arrested by a bergschrund, which divides +this block--evidently a second outlier--from the apex of the +Shárr, the "Dome" and the "Parrot's Beak." It was vain to attempt +a passage of the deep gash, with perpendicular upper walls, and +lower slopes overgrown with vegetation; nor could he advance to +the right and rejoin his companions, who were parted from him by +the precipices on the near side of the Col. Consequently, he beat +a retreat, and returned to us at 2.30 p.m., after three hours and +thirty minutes of exceedingly thirsty work: the air felt brisk +and cool, but the sun shone pitilessly, unveiled by the smallest +scrap of mist. He brought with him an ibex-horn still stained +with blood, and a branch of juniper, straight enough to make an +excellent walking-stick. + +The other two struck across the valley, and at once breasted the +couloir leading to the Col, where we had them well in sight. They +found the ascent much "harder on the collar" than they expected: +fortunately the sole of the huge gutter yielded a trickle of +water. The upper part was, to their naive surprise, mere climbing +on all fours; and they reached the summit, visible from our +halting-place, in two hours. Here they also were summarily +stopped by perpendicular rocks on either side, and by the deep +gorge or crevasse, shedding seawards and landwards, upon whose +further side rose the "Parrot's Beak." The time employed would +give about two thousand feet, not including the ascent from the +valley (three hundred feet); and thus their highest point could +hardly be less than 5200 feet. Allowing another thousand for the +apex, which they could not reach,[EN#25] the altitude of the +Shárr would be between 6000 and 6500 feet. + +The shadows were beginning to lengthen before the two reappeared, +and the delay caused no small apprehension; the Sayyid showed a +kindly agitation that was quite foreign to his calm and collected +demeanour, when threatened by personal danger. To be benighted +amongst these cruel mountains must be no joke; nor would it have +been possible to send up a tent or even mouth-munition. However, +before the sun had reached the west, they came back triumphant +with the spoils of war. One was a snake (Echis colorata, +Günther), found basking upon the stones near the trickle of +water. It hissed at them, and, when dying, it changed colour, +they declared, like a chameleon--that night saw it safely in the +spirit-tin. They were loaded with juniper boughs, and fortunately +they had not forgotten the berries; the latter establish the +identity of the tree with the common Asiatic species. M. Lacaze +brought back several Alpine plants, a small Helix which he had +found near the summit, and copious scrawls for future +croquis--his studies of the "Pins" and the "Dome" were greatly +admired at Cairo. + +Ere the glooms of night had set in, we found ourselves once more +at the tents. Only one man suffered from the ascent, and his +sunstroke was treated in Egyptian fashion. Instead of bleeding +like that terrible, murderous Italian school of Sangrados, the +Fellahs tie a string tightly round the head; and after +sunset--which is considered de rigueur--they fill the ears with +strong brine. According to them the band causes a bunch of veins +to swell in the forehead, and, when pressed hard, it bursts like +a pistol-shot. The cure is evidently effected by the cold +salt-and-water. The evening ended happily with the receipt of a +mail, and with the good news that the Sinnár corvette had been +sent to take the place of El-Mukhbir, the unfortunate. Once more +we felt truly grateful to the Viceroy and the Prince who so +promptly and so considerately had supplied all our wants, and +whose kindness would convert our southern cruise into a holiday +gîte, without the imminent deadly risk of a burst boiler. + +We set out in high spirits on the next morning (6.15 a.m., March +17th), riding, still southwards, up the Surr: the stony, broken +surface now showed that we were fast approaching its source. +Beyond the Umm Khárgah gorge on the western bank, rose a tall +head, the Ras el-Rukabíyyah; and beyond it was a ravine, in which +palms and water are said to be found. The opposite side raised +its monotonous curtain of green and red traps, whose several +projections bore the names of Jebel el-Wu'ayrah--the hill behind +our camping-ground--Jebel el-Maín, and Jebel Sháhitah. A little +beyond the latter debouched the Darb el-Kufl ("Road of +Caravans"), alias Darb el-Ashárif ("Road of the Sherifs"), a +winding gap, the old line of the Egyptian pilgrims, by which the +Sulaymáyyán Bedawin still wend their way to Suez. The second +name, perhaps, conserves the tradition of long-past wars waged +between the Descendants of the Apostle and the Beni +‘Ukbah.[EN#26] The broad mouth was dotted with old graves, with +quartz-capped memorial-cairns, and, here and there, with a block +bearing some tribal mark. The Wady-sole grew a "stinkhorn" held +to be poisonous, and called, from its fetor, "Faswat el-‘Agúz" +(Cynophallus impudicus): one specimen was found on the tip of an +ibex-horn, and the other had been impaled with a stick. After two +hours and thirty minutes (= seven miles) we sighted the head of +the Wady Surr proper, whose influents drain the southern +Khurayatah or Hismá Pass. Here the amount of green surface, and +the number of birds, especially the blue-rock and the +insect-impaling "butcher," whose nests were in the thin forest of +thorn-trees, argue that water is not far off. The Ras Wady Surr +is a charming halting-place. + +Our Arabs worked hard to gain another day. The only tolerable +Pass rounding the southern Shárr was, they declared, the Wady +Aújar, an influent of the Wady Zahakán, near Zibá. The Col +el-Kuwayd, now within a few yards of us, is so terrible that the +unfortunate camels would require, before they could attempt it, +at least twenty-four hours of preparatory rest and rich feeding; +and so forth. However, we pushed them on with flouts and jeers, +and we ourselves followed at eleven a.m. + +The Pass proved to be one of the easiest. It began with a gradual +rise up a short broad Wady, separating the southernmost +counterforts of the Shárr from the north end of the Jebel +el-Ghuráb. This "Raven Mountain" is a line of similar but lower +formation, which virtually prolongs the great "Landmark," down +coast. The bottom was dotted with lumps of pure "Marú," washed +from the upper levels. We reached the summit in forty minutes, +and the seaward slope beyond it was a large outcrop of quartz in +situ, that assumed the strangest appearance,--a dull, dead +chalky-white, looking as if heat-altered or mixed with clay. The +rock-ladder leading to the lower Wady Kuwayd, which has an upper +branch of the same name, offered no difficulty to man or beast; +and the aneroid showed its height to be some 470 feet +(28.13--28.50). The caravan, having preceded us, revenged itself +by camping at the nearest pool, distant nineteen and a half +direct geographical miles from our destination. + +This day was the first of the Khamsín or, as M. Loufti (?), a +Coptic student, writes it, "Khamasín," from Khama ("warm") and +Sina ("air").[EN#27] The Midianites call it El-Daufún, the hot +blasts, and expect it to blow at intervals for a couple of +months. This scirocco has been modified in Egypt, at least during +the spring, apparently by the planting of trees. About a +quarter-century ago, its regular course was three days: on the +first it set in; the second was its worst; and men knew that it +would exhaust itself on the third. Now it often lasts only a +single day, and even that short period has breaks. + +The site of the camp made sleep well-nigh impossible--a bad +preparation for the only long ride of this excursion. Setting off +at dark (4.20 a.m., March 18th), we finished the monotonous Wady +Kuwayd, which mouths upon the rolling ground falling coastwards. +The track then struck to the north-west, across and sometimes +down the network of Wadys that subtends the south-western +Shárr--their names have already been mentioned. As we sighted the +cool green-blue sea, its horizon-line appeared prodigiously +uplifted, as if the Fountains of the great Deep were ready for +another Deluge. I remembered the inevitable expressions of +surprise with which, young Alpinists and ballooners, expecting +the rim of the visible circle to fall away, see it rising around +them in saucer-shape. The cause is simply that which breaks the +stick in water, and which elevates the Sha'rr every +morning--Refraction. + +After a march of seven hours (= twenty-two miles), we debouched, +viâ the Wady Hárr, upon our old Sharm, the latter showing, for +the first time since its creation, two war-steamers, with their +"tender," a large Sambúk. The boats did not long keep us waiting; +and we were delighted to tread once more the quarter-deck of the +corvette Sinnár. Captain Ali Bey Shukri's place had been taken by +Captain Hasan-Bey, an Osmanli of Cavala who, having been +forty-eight years in the service, sighed for his pension. He did, +however, everything in his power to make us feel "at home;" and +the evening ended with a fantasia of a more pronounced character +than anything that I had yet seen.[EN#28] + + + + + + Résumé of the March Through Eastern or Central Midian. + + + +Our journey through Eastern or Central Midian lasted eighteen +days (February 19--March 8), with an excursion of six (March +13--18) to its apex, the mighty Shárr, which I would add to our +exploration of Central Midian. Despite enforced slow marches at +the beginning of the first section, we visited in round numbers, +according to my itinerary, 197 miles: Lieutenant Amir's map gives +a linear length of 222 miles, not including the offsets. The +second part covered fifty-five miles, besides the ascent of the +mountain to a height of about five thousand feet: the mapper also +increased this figure to 59 2/3. Thus the route-line shows a +grand total of 252 to 281 2/3 in direct statute miles. The number +of camels engaged from Shaykhs ‘Alayán and Hasan was sixty-one; +and the hire, according to Mr. Clarke, represented £147 6s. 6d., +not including the £40 of which we were plundered by the bandit +Ma'ázah. The ascent of the Shárr also cost £40, making a grand +total of £187 6s. 6d. + +The march to the Hismá gave us a fair idea of the three main +formations of Madyan, which lie parallel and east of one +another:--1. The sandy and stony maritime region, the foot-hills +of the Gháts, granites and traps with large veins and outcrops of +quartz; and Wadys lined with thick beds of conglomerate. 2. The +Jibál el-Tihámah, the majestic range that bounds the seaboard +inland, with its broad valleys and narrow gorges forming the only +roads. 3. The Jibál el-Shafah, or interior ridge, the "lip" of +North-Western Arabia; in fact, the boundary-wall of the Nejd +plateau. + +The main object of this travel was to ascertain the depth from +west to east of the quartz-formations, which had been worked by +the Ancients. I had also hoped to find a virgin region lying +beyond El-Harrah, the volcanic tract subtending the east of the +Hismá, or plateau of New Red Sandstone. We ascertained, by +inquiry, that the former has an extent wholly unsuspected by Dr. +Wallin and by the first Expedition; and that a careful +examination of it is highly desirable. But we were stopped upon +the very threshold of the Hismá by the Ma'ázah, a tribe of +brigands which must be subjected to discipline before the +province of Madyan can be restored to its former status. + +This northern portion had been visited by Dr. Wallin; the other +two-thirds of the march lay, I believe, over untrodden ground. We +brought back details concerning the three great parallel Wadys; +the Salmá, the Dámah, that "Arabian Arcadia," and the +‘Aslah-Aznab. We dug into, and made drawings and plans of, the +two principal ruined cities, Shuwák and Shaghab, which probably +combined to form the classical <Greek>; and of the two less +important sites, El-Khandaki and Umm Ámil. + +The roads of this region, and indeed of all Midian, are those of +Iceland without her bogs and snows: for riding considerations we +may divide them into four kinds:-- + +1. Wady--the Fiumara or Nullah; called by travellers +"winter-brook" and "dry river-bed." It is a channel without +water, formed, probably, by secular cooling and contraction of +the earth's surface, like the fissures which became true streams +in the tropics, and in the higher temperate zones. Its geological +age would be the same as the depressions occupied by the ocean +and the "massive" eruptions forming the mountain-skeleton of the +globe. Both the climate and the vegetation of Midian must have +changed immensely if these huge features, many of them five miles +broad, were ever full of water. In modern days, after the +heaviest rains, a thin thread meanders down a wilderness of bed. + +The Wady-formation shows great regularity. Near the mouth its +loose sands are comfortable to camels and distressing to man and +mule. The gravel of the higher section is good riding; the upper +part is often made impassable by large stones and overfalls of +rock; and the head is a mere couloir. Flaked clay or mud show the +thalweg; and the honeycombed ground, always above the line of +highest water, the homes of the ant, beetle, jerboa, lizard, and +(Girdi) rat, will throw even the cautious camel. + +2. Ghadír--the basin where rain-water sinks. It is mostly a +shining bald flat of hard yellow clay, as admirable in dry as it +is detestable in wet weather. + +3. Majrá--here pronounced "Maghráh"[EN#29]--the divide; +literally, the place of flowing. It is the best ground of all, +especially where the yellow or brown sands are overlaid by hard +gravel, or by a natural metalling of trap and other stones. + +4. Wa'r--the broken stony surface, over which camels either +cannot travel, or travel with difficulty: it is the horror of the +Bedawi; and, when he uses the word, it usually means that it +causes man to dismount. It may be of two kinds; either the Majrá +proper ("divide") or the Nakb ("pass"), and the latter may safely +be left to the reader's imagination. + +The partial ascent of the mighty Shárr gave an admirable study of +the mode in which the granites have been enfolded and enveloped +by the later eruptions of trap. Nor less curious, also, was it to +remark how, upon this Arabian Alp, vegetation became more +important; increasing, contrary to the general rule, not only in +quantity but in size, and changing from the date and the Daum to +the strong smelling Ferula, the homely hawthorn, and the tall and +balmy juniper-tree. There is game, ibex and leopard, in these +mountains; but the traveller, unless a man of leisure, must not +expect to shoot or even to sight it. + + + + + + Chapter XIV. +Down South--to El-Wijh–Notes on the Quarantine--the Hutaym Tribe. + + + +There remained work to do before we could leave El-Muwaylah. The +two Shaykhs, ‘Alayán and Hasan el-‘Ukbi, were to be paid off end +dismissed with due ceremony; provisions were to be brought from +the fort to the cove; useless implements to be placed in store; +mules to be embarked--no joke without a pier!--and last, but not +least, the ballastless Mukhbir was to be despatched with a mail +for Suez. The whole Expedition, except only the sick left at the +fort, was now bound southwards. The Sayyid and our friend Furayj +accepted formal invitations to accompany us: Bukhayt, my +"shadow," with Husayn, chef and romancer-general, were shipped as +their henchmen; and a score of soldiers and quarrymen represented +the escort and the working-hands. Briefly, the Sinnár, though +fretting her vitals out at the delay, was detained two days +(March 19--20) in the Sharm Yáhárr. Amongst other things that +consoled us for quitting the snug dock, was the total absence of +fish. At this season the shoals leave the coast, and gather round +their wonted spawning-grounds, the deep waters near the Sha'b +("reefs"), where they find luxuriant growths of seaweed, and +where no ships disturb them. + +Bidding a temporary adieu to our old fellow voyagers on board the +Mukhbir, including the excellent engineer, Mr. David Duguid, we +steamed out of the quiet cove, at a somewhat late hour (6.30 +a.m.) on March 21st; and, dashing into the dark and slaty sea, +stood to the south-east. For two days the equinoctial weather had +been detestable, dark, cloudy, and so damp that the dry and the +wet bulbs showed a difference of only 4°--5°. This morning, too, +the fire of colour had suddenly gone out; and the heavens were +hung with a gloomy curtain. The great Shárr, looming unusually +large and tall in the Scandinavian mountain-scene, grey of shadow +and glancing with sun-gleams that rent the thick veils of +mist-cloud, assumed a manner of Ossianic grandeur. After three +hours and a half we were abreast of Zibá, around whose dumpy +tower all the population had congregated. Thence the regular +coralline bank, whose beach is the Bab, runs some distance down +coast, allowing passage to our ugly old friend, Wady Salmá. The +next important mouth is the Wady ‘Amúd, showing two Sambúks at +anchor, and a long line of vegetation like the palm-strips of the +‘Akabah Gulf: this valley, I have said, receives the Mutadán, +into which the Abú Marwah gorge discharges.[EN#30] + +It would appear that this "‘Amúd" represents the "Wady el-‘Aúníd," a +name utterly unknown to the modern Arabs, citizens and Bedawin, at +least as far south as El-Haurá. Yet it is famed amongst mediaeval +geographers for its fine haven with potable water; and for its +flourishing city, where honey was especially abundant. El-Idrísí +settles the question of its site by placing it on the coast opposite +the island El-Na'mán (Nu'mán), but can El-Idrísí be trusted? +Sprenger (p. 24), induced, it would appear, by similarity of sound, +and justly observing that in Arabic the letters Ayn and Ghayn are +often interchanged, would here place the <Greek> (Rhaunathi Vicus) +of Ptolemy (north lat. 25 degrees 40'). According to my friend, +also, the Ras Abú Masárib, the long thin point north of which the +Wady Dámah, half-way to the Wady Azlam, falls in, represents the +<Greek> (Chersónesi Extrema) on the same parallel. I cannot help +suspecting that both lie further south--in fact, somewhere about El- +Haurá.[EN#31] + +Here the maritime heights, known as the Jibál ("Mountains" of +the) Tihámat-Balawiyyah (of "the Baliyy tribe"), recede from the +sea, and become mere hills and hillocks; yet the continuity of +the chain is never completely broken. At noon we slipped into the +channel, about a mile and a half broad, which separates the +mainland from the Jebel ("Mount") Nu'mán, as the island is +called: so the Arabs speak of Jebel (never Jezírat) +Hassáni.[EN#32] The surface of the water was like oil after the +cross seas on all sides, the tail of an old gale which the Arab +pilots call Bahr madfún ("buried sea"), corresponding with the +Italian mar vecchio. On our return northwards we landed upon +Nu'mán, whose name derives from the red-flowered Euphorbia +retusa; bathed, despite the school of sharks occupying the waters +around; collected botany, and examined the ground carefully. Like +the Dalmatian Archipelago, it once formed part of the mainland, +probably separated by the process that raised the maritime range. +The rolling sandy plateau and the dwarf Wadys are strewed with +trap and quartz, neither of which could have been generated by +the new sandstones and the yellow corallines. It has two fine +bays, facing the shore and admirably defended from all winds; the +southern not a little resembles Sináfir-cove. + +The "top," or dwarf plateau, commands a fine view of the coast +scenery; the "Pins" of the Shárr; the Mutadán Mountain, twin ridges +of grey white granite, and, further south, the darker forms of +Raydán and Zigláb. Here, during springtide, the Huwaytát transport +their flocks in the light craft called Katirah, and feed them till +the pasture is browsed down. We made extensive inquiries, but could +hear of no ruins. Yet the islet, some three to four miles long by +one broad, forming a natural breakwater to the coast, is important +enough to bear, according to Sprenger, a classical name, the <Greek> +(Timagenis Insula) of Ptolemy. If this be the case, either the +Pelusian or his manuscripts are greatly in error. He places the bank +in north lat. 25° 45', whilst its centre would be in north lat. 27° +5'; and the sixty miles of distance from the coast, evidently the +blunder of a copyist, must be reduced to a maximum of three. + +Passing another old friend, the Aslah-Aznab, down whose head we +had ridden to Shaghab, about two p.m. we steamed along the mouth +of the Wady Azlam, the Ezlam of Wellsted,[EN#33] which he unduly +makes the southern frontier of the Huwaytát, and the northern of +the Baliyy tribes. Beyond it is the gape of the once populous +Wady Dukhán--of "the (furnace?) Smoke"--faced by a large splay of +tree-grown sand. Ruins are reported in its upper bed. Beyond +Marsá Zubaydah (not Zebaider), the sea is bordered by the +red-yellow coast-range; and the fretted sky line of peaks and +cones, "horses" and "hogs'-backs," is cut by deep valleys and +drained by dark "gates." The background presents a long, regular +curtain of black hill, whose white sheets and veins may be +granite and quartz. We were then shown the Mínat el-Marrah, one +of the many Wady-mouths grown with vegetation; and here the ruins +El-Nabagah (Nabakah) are spoken of. At four p.m. we doubled the +Ras Labayyiz (not Lebayhad), a long flat tongue projecting from +the coast range, and defending its valley to the south. In the +Fara't or upper part, some five hours' march from the mouth, lie +important remains of the Mutakkadimín ("ancients"). The report +was confirmed by an old Arab Básh-Buzúk at El-Wijh; he declared +that in his youth he had seen a tall furnace, and a quantity of +scoriæ from which copper could be extracted, lying northwards at +a distance of eighteen hours' march and five by sea. + +The next important feature is the Wady Salbah, the Telbah of the +Chart, up whose inland continuation, the Wady el-Nejd, we shall +travel. Here the coast-range again veers off eastward; and the +regular line is cut up into an outbreak of dwarf cones, mere +thimbles. Above the gloomy range that bounds it southwards, +appear the granitic peaks and "Pins" of Jebel Libn, gleaming +white and pale in the livid half-light of a cloudy sunset. After +twelve hours' steaming over seventy to seventy-two knots of reefy +sea, we ran carefully into the Sharm Dumayghah.[EN#34] This +lake-like, land-locked cove is by far the best of the many good +dock-harbours which break the Midian coast. Its snug retreat gave +hospitality to half a dozen Juhayni Sambúks, fishers and divers +for mother-of-pearl, riding beyond sight of the outer world, and +utterly safe from the lighthouse dues of El-Wijh. + +I resolved to pass a day at these old quarters of a certain Háji +‘Abdullah. The hydrographers have given enlarged plans of Yáhárr +and Jibbah, ports close to each other; while they have ignored +the far more deserving Sharm Dumayghah. Distant only thirty miles +of coasting navigation, a line almost clear of reefs and shoals, +it is the natural harbour for the pilgrim-ships, which ever run +the danger of being wrecked at El-Wijh; and it deserves more +notice than we have hitherto vouchsafed to it. The weather also +greatly improved on the next day (March 22nd): the cloud-canopy, +the excessive moisture, and the still sultriness which had +afflicted us since March 19th, were in process of being swept +away by the strong, cool, bright norther. + +The survey of the Egyptian officers shows an oval extending from +north-west to south-east, with four baylets or bulges in the +northern shore. The length is upwards of a knot, and the breadth +twelve hundred yards. It may be described as the embouchure of +the Wady Dumayghah, which falls into its head, and which, +doubtless, in olden times, when the land was wooded, used to roll +a large and turbulent stream. As is often seen on this coast, the +entrance is defended by a natural breakwater which appears like a +dot upon the Chart. Capped with brown crust, falling bluff +inland, and sloping towards the main, where the usual stone-heaps +act as sea-marks, this bank of yellowish-white coralline, +measuring 310 metres by half that width, may be the remains of +the bed in which the torrents carved out the port. The northern +inlet is a mere ford of green water: my "Pilgrimage" made the +mistake of placing a fair-way passage on either side of the +islet. The southern channel, twenty-five fathoms deep and three +hundred metres broad, is garnished on both flanks with a hundred +metres of dangerous shallow, easily distinguished by green +blazoned upon blue. The bay is shoal to the south-east; the best +anchorage for ships lies to the north-west, almost touching land. +A reef or rock is reported to be in the middle ground, where we +lay with ten fathoms under us: it was seen, they say, at night, +by the aid of lanterns; but next morning Lieutenants Amir and +Yusuf were unable to find it. Native craft usually make fast in +three fathoms to a lumpy natural mole of modern sandstone, north +of the entrance: a little trimming would convert it into a +first-rate pier. + +At this place we landed to prospect the country, and to gather +information from the Sambúk crews before they had time to hoist +sail and be off. The owners of the land are not Juhaynah, the +"Wild Men" with whom the Rais of the Golden Wire had threatened +us in 1853. The country belongs to the Baliyy; now an inoffensive +tribe well subject to Egypt, mixed with a few Kura'án-Huwaytát +and Karáizah-Hutaym. The fishermen complained that no fish was to +be caught, and the strong tides, setting upon the stony flank of +the mole, had broken most of the shells, not including, however, +the oysters. The usual eight-ribbed turtle appeared to be common. +On the sands to the north, M. Lacaze picked up a large old and +bleached skull, which went into my collection; we failed to find +any neighbouring burial-ground. Striking inland, however, towards +the dotted square, marked "Fort (ruin)" in the Chart, we came +upon an ancient cemetery to the north of the bay, and concluded +that these graves had been mistaken for remains of building. + +We then bent eastward towards the Jibál el-Salbah, and examined +the two dwarf valleys which, threading the heights, feed the Wady +Dumayghah. That to the south showed us a perfectly familiar +formation; conglomerates of water-rolled pebbles in the lower +levels, and hills of the normal dark porphyries, with large +quartz-seams of many colours trending in every direction. The +mouth of the northern gorge was blocked by a vein of finely +crystallized carbonate of lime, containing geodes and bunches. +The taste is astringent, probably from the alumina; and it is +based upon outcrops of a sandy calcaire apparently fit for +hydraulic cement. The only novelty in the vegetation was the +Fashak-tree, a creeper like a gigantic constrictor, with sweet +yellow wood somewhat resembling liquorice. + +Signs of Arab everywhere appeared, but there were no tents. +Consequently we were unable to ascertain the extent of the +water-supply--an important matter if this is to become the port +of El-Wijh. The Sambúks might bring it, but the people on shore +would be dependent upon what they can find. The Hajj-road, +running some miles inland, is doubtless supplied with it. Even, +however, were the necessary wanting, the pilgrim-ships, whilst +taking refuge here, could easily transport it from the south. +Shaykh Furayj; pointed out to us the far northern blue peaks of +the ‘Amúd Zafar, in whose branch-Wady lie the ruins of M'jirmah. +The day ended with a sudden trembling of the ship, as if +straining at anchor; but the crew was again performing fantasia, +and the earthquake or sea-quake rolled unheededly away. +Apparently the direction was from north to south: I noted the +hour, 9.10 p.m., and the duration, twenty seconds. According to +the Arabs the Zilzilah is not uncommon in Midian, especially +about the vernal equinox: on this occasion it ended the spell of +damp and muggy weather which began on March 19th, and which may +have been connected with it. + +The survey soundings were not finished till nearly eight a.m. +(March 23rd), when the old corvette swung round on her heel; and, +with the black hills of Salbah to port, resumed her rolling, +rollicking way southwards. Her only ballast consisted of some six +hundred conical shot, or twelve tons for a ship of eight hundred. +After one hour of steaming (= seven miles) we passed the green +mouth of the Wady ‘Antar, in whose Istabl ("stable"), or upper +valley-course, the pilgrimage-caravan camps. It drains a small +inland feature to the north-east, the true "Jebel ‘Antar," which +the Hydrographic Chart has confounded with the great block, +applying, moreover, the term Istabl to the height instead of the +hollow. This Jebel Libn, along which we are now steaming, is a +counterpart on a small scale, a little brother, of the Shárr, +measuring 3733 instead of 6000 to 6500 feet. We first see from +the north a solid block capped with a mural crown of three peaks. +When abreast of us the range becomes a tall, fissured, and +perpendicular wall: this apical comb, bluff to the west, reposes +upon a base sloping, at the angle of rest, to the environing +sandy Wady. To complete the resemblance, even the queer "Pins" +are not wanting; and I should expect to find in it all the +accidents of the giant of El-Muwaylah. + +The complexion of the Libn, which the people pronounce "Libin," +suggests grey granite profusely intersected with white quartz: +hence, probably, the name, identical with Lebanon and +Libanus--"the Milk Mountain." The title covers a multitude of +peaks: the Bedawin have, doubtless, their own terms for every +head and every hollow. The citizens comprehensively divide the +block into two, El-Áli ("the Upper") being its southern, and +El-Asfal ("the Lower") its northern, section. It is said to +abound in water; and a Nakhil ("date-grove") is described as +growing near the summit. The Hutaym, who own most of it, claim +the lover and hero-poet, ‘Antar, as one of their despised +tribe--hence, probably, his connection with the adjoining +mountain and "the stable." + +"Jebel Libin" is the great feature of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah; for +many days it will appear to follow us, and this is the proper +place for assigning its rank and status to it. About El-‘Akabah, +the northern head of the Gháts or coast-range, we have prospected +the single chain of Jebel Shará'; the "Sa'ar of the tribes of the +Shasu" (Bedawin)[EN#35] in the papyri, and the Hebrew Mount Seir, +the "rough" or "rugged." Further south we have noted how this +tall eastern bulwark of the great Wady el-‘Arabah bifurcates; +forming the Shafah chain to the east, and westward of it, in +Madyan Proper, the Jibál el-Tihámah, of which the Shárr is +perhaps the culmination. We have noted the accidents of the +latter as far as Dumayghah Cove, and now we descry in the offing +the misty forms--how small they look!--of the Jebel el-Ward; the +Jibál el-Safhah; the two blocks, south of the Wady Hamz, known as +the Jibál el-Rál; and their neighbours still included in the +Tihámat-Balawíyyah. Lastly, we shall sight, behind El-Haurá, the +Abú Ghurayr and a number of blocks which, like the former, are +laid down, but are not named, in the Chart. + +Beyond El-Haurá the chain stretches southwards its mighty links +with smaller connections. The first is the bold range Jebel +Radwah, the "Yambo Hills" of the British sailor, some six +thousand feet high and lying twenty-five miles behind the new +port.[EN#36] Passing it to left on the route to El-Medínah, I +heard the fables which imposed upon Abyssinian Bruce: "All sorts +of Arabian fruits grew to perfection on the summit of these +hills; it is the paradise of the people of Yenbo, those of any +substance having country-houses there." This was hardly probable +in Bruce's day, and now it is impossible. The mountain is held by +the Beni Harb, a most turbulent tribe, for which see my +"Pilgrimage."[EN#37] Their head Shaykh, Sa'd the Robber, who +still flourished in 1853, is dead; but he has been succeeded by +one of his sons, Shaykh Hudayfah, who is described with simple +force as being a "dog more biting than his sire." Between these +ill-famed haunts of the Beni Harb and Jeddah rises the Jebel +Subh, "a mountain remarkable for its magnitude" (4500 feet), +inhabited by the Beni Subh, a fighting clan of the "Sons of +Battle." + +The largest links of these West-Arabian Gháts are of white-grey +granite, veined and striped with quartz; and they are subtended +inland by the porphyritic traps of the Jibál el-Shafah, which we +shall trace to the parallel of El-Hamz, the end of Egypt. I +cannot, however, agree with Wellsted (II. xii.) that the ridges +increase in height as they recede from the sea; nor that the +veins of quartz run horizontally through the "dark granite." The +greater altitudes (three to six thousand feet) are visible from +an offing of forty to seventy miles; and they are connected by +minor heights: some of these, however, are considerable, and here +and there they break into detached pyramids. All are maritime, +now walling the shore, like the Tayyib Ism; then sheering away +from it, where a broad "false coast" has been built by Time. + +These western Gháts, then, run down, either in single or in +double line, the whole length of occidental Arabia; and, meeting +a similar and equally important eastern line, they form a mighty +nucleus, the mountains of El-Yemen. After carefully inspecting, +and making close inquiries concerning, a section of some five +hundred miles, I cannot but think that the mines of precious +ores, mentioned by the mediæval Arabian geographers,[EN#38] lay +and lie in offsets from the flanks either of the maritime or the +inland chain; that is, either in the Tihámah, the coast lowlands, +or in the El-Nejd, the highland plateau of the interior. + +What complicates the apparently simple ground is the long line of +volcanic action which, forming the eastern frontier of the +plutonic granites and of the modern grits, may put forth veins +even to the shores of the ‘Akabah Gulf and the Red Sea.[EN#39] +The length, known to me by inquiry, would be about three degrees +between north lat. 28° and 25°, the latter being the parallel of +El-Medínah; others make them extend to near Yambú', in north lat. +24° 5'. They may stretch far to the north, and connect, as has +been suggested, with the Syrian centres of eruption, discovered +by the Palestine Exploration. I have already explained[EN#40] how +and why we were unable to visit "the Harrah" lying east of the +Hismá; but we repeatedly saw its outlines, and determined that +the lay is from north-west to south-east. Further south, as will +be noticed at El-Haurá, the vertebrae curve seawards or to the +south-west; and seem to mingle with the main range, the mountains +of the Tihámat-Jahaníyyah ("of the Juhaynah"). Thus the formation +assumes an importance which has never yet been attributed to it; +and the five several "Harrahs," reported to me by the Bedawin, +must be studied in connection with the mineralogical deposits of +the chains in contact with them. It must not be forgotten that a +fragment of porous basalt, picked up by the first Expedition near +Makná, yielded a small button of gold.[EN#41] + +Dreadfully rolled the Sinnár, as she ran close in-shore before +the long heavy swell from the north-west, and the old saying, Bon +rouleur, bon marcheur, is cold consolation to an active man made +to idle malgré lui. This section of the coast, unlike that to the +north, is remarkably free from reefs. A little relief was felt +while sheltered by the short tract of channel between the +mainland and the shoals. But the nuisance returned in force as, +doubling the Ras Muraybit (not Marabat), we sighted the two +towers of El-Wijh, both beflagged, the round Burj of the fort, +and the cubical white-washed lighthouse crowning its rocky point. +And we were quiet once more when the Sinnár, having covered the +thirty miles in four hours and thirty minutes, cast anchor in the +usual place, south-east of the northern jaw. The main objection +to our berth is that the prevailing north wind drives in a +rolling sea from the open west. The log showed a total of 102 +miles between the Sharms Yáhárr and El-Wijh, or 107 from the +latter to El-Muwaylah. + +"El-Wijh," meaning the face, a word which the Egyptian Fellah +perverts to "Wish," lies in north lat. 26° 14'. It is the +northernmost of the townlets on the West Arabian shore, which +gain importance as you go south; e.g., Yambá', Jeddah, Mocha, and +Aden. It was not wholly uncivilized during my first visit, a +quarter of a century ago, when I succeeded in buying opium for +feeble patients. Distant six stations from Yambá', and ten from +El-Medínah, it has been greatly altered and improved. The +pilgrim-caravan, which here did penance of quarantine till the +last two years, has given it a masonry pier for landing the +unfortunates to encamp upon the southern or uninhabited side of +the cove. A tall and well-built lighthouse, now five years old, +boasts of a good French lantern, wanting only soap and decent +oil. Finally, guardhouses and bakehouses, already falling to +ruins like the mole, and an establishment for condensing water, +still kept in working order, are the principal and costly +novelties of the southern shore. + +The site of El-Wijh is evidently old, although the ruins have +been buried under modern buildings. Sprenger (p. 21) holds the +townlet to be the port of "Egra, a village" (El-Hajar, or "the +town, the townlet"?) "in the territory of Obodas," whence, +according to Strabo (xvi. c. 4, § 24), Ælius Gallus embarked his +baffled troops for Myus Hormus.[EN#42] Formerly he believed +El-Aúníd to be Strabo's "Egra," the haven for the north; as +El-Haurá was for the south, and El-Wijh for the central regions. +Pliny (vi. 32) also mentions the "Tamudæi, with their towns of +Domata and Hegra, and the town of Badanatha." It is generally +remarked that "Egra" does not appear in Ptolemy's lists; yet one +of the best texts (Nobbe, Lipsia, 1843) reads <Greek> instead +of the "Negran" which Pirckheymerus (Lugduni, MDXXXV.) and others +placed in north lat. 26°. + +My learned friend writes to me--"El-Wijh, on the coast of Arabia, +is opposite to Qoçayr (El-Kusayr), where Ælius Gallus landed his +troops. We know that ‘Egra' is the name of a town in the +interior, and it was the constant habit to call the port after +the capital of the country, e.g., Arabia Emporium = Aden. We have +now only to inquire whether El-Wijh had claims to be considered +the seaport of El-Hijr." This difficulty is easily settled. +El-Wijh is still the main, indeed the only, harbour in South +Midian; and, during our stay there, a large caravan brought +goods, as will be seen, from the upper Wady Hamz. + +Under the influence of the quarantine, El-Wijh, the town on the +northern bank of its cove, has blossomed into a hauteville, +dating from the last dozen years. The ancient basseville, +probably the site of many former settlements, is now used chiefly +for shops and stores. Another and a more pretentious mosque has +supplanted the little old Záwiyah ("chapel") with its barbarous +minaret, whose finial, a series of inverted crescents, might be +taken for a cross; while a Jámi' or "cathedral," begun in the +upper town, has stopped short through want of funds. Some of the +best houses now extend towards the northern point. As usual in +Arab settlements, they are long, tall claret-cases of coral-rag +and burnt lime; flat-roofed, whitewashed in front, and provided +with wooden doors and shutters. Lastly, on the slope still +appears the smoky coffee-shed that witnessed the memorable +encounter between its surly proprietor and "Saad the +Devil."[EN#43] + +Stony ramps, stiff as those of Gibraltar, connect the low with +the high town, the cool breezy new settlement upon the crest of +the northern cliff, whose noble view of the Jebel Libn and the +palm-scattered Wady el-Wijh were formerly monopolized by the fort +and its round tower. This work, only sixty-five years old, now +stands so perilously near the undermined edge of the +rock-cornice, that some day it will come down with a run. It is +used by the garrison, and serves as a jail; but lately a Bedawi +prisoner, like a certain Mamlúk Bey, jumped down the precipitous +cove-face and effected his escape. Behind it are the "Doctors' +Quarters," empty and desolate, because the sanitary officers have +been removed. They are sheds of white-washed boarding, brought +from the Crimea, like those of the Suez Canal; and comfortably +distributed into Harem, kitchens, offices, and other necessaries. + +The inhabitants of El-Wijh may number twelve hundred, without +including chance travellers and the few wretched Bedawin, Hutaym +and others, who pitch their black tents, like those of +Alexandrian "Ramleh," about and beyond the town. The people live +well; and the merchants are large and portly men, who evidently +thrive upon meat and rice. Flesh is retailed in the bazar, and +mutton is cheap, especially when the Bedawin are near; a fine +large sheep being dear at ten shillings. Water is exceptionally +abundant, even without the condenser's aid. The poorer classes +and animals are watered at the pits and the two regular wells +near the valley's mouth, half an hour's trudge from the town. The +wealthy are supplied by the inland fort, which we shall presently +visit: the distance going and coming would be about four slow +hours, and the skinful costs five Khurdah, or copper piastres = +three halfpence. The inner gardens grow a small quantity of green +meat: water-melons are brought from Yambá(?): opium and Hashísh +abound, but no spirits are for sale since the one Greek Bakkál, +or petty shopkeeper, "made tracks." He borrowed from a certain +Surúr Selámah, negro merchant and head miser, 150 napoleons, in +order to buy on commission certain bales of cotton shipwrecked up +coast; he left in pledge the keys of his miserable store, which, +by-the-by, la loi refuses to open; he was never seen again, and +poor rich Surur is in the depths of despair. + +One of the small industries of El-Wijh is the pearl trade. Mr. +Clarke bought for £4 (twenty dollars) a specimen of good round +form but rather yellow colour; and presently refused £5 for it. +Those of pear-shape easily fetch thirty-six to forty dollars. +Turquoises set in sealing-wax are sold cheap by the returning +Persian pilgrims: the Zib el-Bahr ("Sea-wolf"), an Egyptian +cruiser, had carried off the best shortly before our arrival. The +people speak of an ‘Akík ("carnelian") which, rubbed down in +vinegar, enters into the composition of a favourite philtre--we +could not, however, find any for sale. On our return, an ‘Anezah +caravan of some ninety camels, driven by a hundred or so of +spearmen and matchlockmen, came in loaded with valuable Samn or +clarified butter: the fact suggests that the time has come for +establishing a Gumruk ("custom-house") at El-Wijh. Another source +of wealth will be El-Melláhah, "the salina," along which we shall +travel: every man who has a donkey may carry off what he pleases, +and sell to pilgrims and Bedawin the kilogramme for four piastres +copper (= one piastre currency = five farthings). This again +should be taken in hand by Government; and regular "salterns," +like those of Triestine Capodistria, would greatly increase the +quantity. Nothing can be better than the quality except +rock-salt. There is another salina about one hour down the coast, +formed by a reef, near the Ras el-Ma'llah. + +The afternoon of arrival was spent in receiving visits. The +Muháfiz or "civil governor," Hasan Bey, calls himself a +Circassian: he is a handsome old man, whose straight features +suggest the Greek slave, and who served in the Syrian campaigns +under Ibrahim Pasha. Forty years ago he left his home; he has +been here six years, and yet he knows absolutely nothing of the +interior. He ought to reside at the inland fort, but he prefers +the harbour-town; and he had not the common-sense to ride out +with us. He shows his zeal by inventing obstacles; for instance, +he suggests that the Bedawin should leave, during our journey, +hostages at the fort: this is wholly unnecessary, and means only +piastres. The Yuzbáshi, or "military commandant," Sid-Ahmed +Effendi, has charge of the forty-five regulars, half a company, +who garrison the post and outpost. The chief merchant, who +afterwards volunteered to be our travelling companion, is +Mohammed Shahádah, formerly Wakil ("agent") of the fort, a charge +now abolished by a pound-foolish policy: he is an honest and +intelligent, a charitable and companionable man, who has +travelled far and wide over the interior, and who knows the +tribes by heart. I strongly recommended him to his Highness the +Viceroy. His brothers, Bedawi and Ali Shahádah, are also +open-handed to the poor; very unlike their brother-in-law Surúr +Selámah, formerly a slave to the father of Mohammed Selámah whom +we had met at Zibá. The list of notables ends with the Sayyid +Ibrahim El-Mara'í and with the sturdy Abd el-Hakk, pearl and +general merchant. All recognized our friend the Sayyid, whom even +the "gutter-boys" saluted by name; and, although the Arab manner +is blunt and independent, all showed perfect civility. It is +needless to say that our late work, and our future plans, were +known to everybody at El-Wijh as well as to ourselves; and that +the tariffs of pay and hire, established in the North Country, at +once became the norm of the South. + +Our favourite walk at old "Egra" was to the quarantine-ground and +the lighthouse. The situation of the town is by no means +satisfactory, and the heavy dews of April, wetting the streets, +cause frequent fevers. En revanche, nothing can be more healthy +or exhilarating than the air of the tall plateau to the south of +the cove. The quarantine-ground, with its grand view of the +mountains inland, ends seawards in the Pharos that commands an +horizon of blue water. The latter, according to the charts, is +one hundred and six feet above sea-level, and is theoretically +visible for fourteen miles; practice would reduce this radius to +ten, and the least haze to six and even five. + +The lighthouse-charges are strongly objected to by the skippers +of Arab fishing-boats, although very small in their case. +Square-rigged vessels pay per ton twenty parahs (tariff): thus it +costs a ship of five hundred tons £2 10s. (Turkish). The keeper. +under Admiral M'Killop (Pasha), a young Greek named "Gurjí," as +"George" here sounds, is assisted by a Moslem lad, Mohammed +Effendi of Alexandria. They serve for three years, and they look +forward to the end of them. The former also superintends the +condensing establishment: this office is a sinecure, except +during the three months of pilgrim-passage. The machine can +distil eighteen tons per diem; and there is another +water-magazine, an old paddle-wheeler moored to the beach under +the town. Behind the establishment lies the pilgrim-cemetery. +frequented by hyenas that prowl around the lighthouse, +threatening the canine guard. I found a new use for this vermin's +brain: it is administered by the fair ones at El-Wijh to jealous +husbands, upon whom, they tell me, it acts as a sedative. + +El-Wijh has been heard of in England as the prophylactic against +the infected Hejaz. It is admirably suited for quarantine +purposes, and it has been abolished, very unwisely, in favour of +"Tor harbour." The latter, inhabited by a ring of thievish +Syro-Greek traders; backed by a wretched wilderness, alternately +swampy and sandy, is comfortless to an extent calculated to make +the healthiest lose health. Moreover, its climate, says Professor +Palmer (p. 222), is very malarious: "owing to the low and marshy +nature of the ground, there is a great deal of miasma even in the +winter season." Finally, and worst of all, it is near enough to +Suez for infection to travel easily. A wealthy pilgrim has only +to pay a few gold pieces, his escape to the mountains is winked +at; and thence he travels or voyages comfortably to Suez and +Cairo. Even without such irregularities, the transmission of +contaminated clothing, or other articles, would suffice to spread +cholera, typhus, and smallpox. Tor is, in fact, an excellent +medium for focussing and for propagating contagious disease; and +its vicinity to Egypt, and consequently to Europe, suggests that +it should at once be abolished. + +At first I lent ear to the popular statement at El-Wijh; namely, +that the visiting doctors and the resident sanitary officers +naturally prefer the shorter to the longer voyage, and the nearer +station to that further from home. Moreover, inasmuch as, if +inclined to be dishonest, they find more opportunities in the +north, it was their interest to transfer the establishment to +Tor. The local authorities, the people assured me, were induced +to report that the single fort-well had run dry; that the +condensers had proved a failure, and that the old +steamer-magazine, into which they had poured brine, was leaky and +inefficient. But what was my astonishment when, after return to +Cairo, I was told that the change had been strongly advocated by +the English Government? + +The objections to El-Wijh are two, both equally invalid. The port +is dangerous, especially when westerly winds are blowing: ships +during the pilgrimage-season must bank their fires, ever ready to +run out. True; but it has been shown that Sharm Dumayghah, the +best of its kind, lies only thirty knots to the north. The +second, want of water, or of good water, is even less cogent. We +have seen that the seaboard wells supply the poorer classes and +animals; and we shall presently see the Fort-wells, which, in +their day, have watered caravans containing twenty to thirty +thousand thirsty men and beasts. So far from the condensers being +a failure, the tank still holds about twenty tons of distilled +water, although it gives drink to some thirty mouths composing +the establishment. Finally, the old steamer has done its duty +well, and, like the proverbial Marine, is still ready to do its +duty again.[EN#44] + +Thus the expense of laying out the quarantine-ground at El-Wijh +has been pitifully wasted. That, however, is a very small matter; +the neglect of choosing a proper position is serious, even +ominous. Unlike Tor, nothing can be healthier or freer from fever +than the pilgrims' plateau. From El-Wijh, too, escape is +hopeless: the richest would not give a piastre to levant; +because, if a solitary traveller left the caravan, a Bedawi +bullet would soon prevail on him to stop. This, then, should be +the first long halt for the "compromised" travelling northwards. +When contagious disease has completely disappeared, the second +precautionary delay might be either at Tor or, better still, at +the "Wells of Moses" (‘Uyun Músá), near the head of the Suez +Gulf: here sanitary conditions are far more favourable; and here +supplies, including medical comforts, would be cheaper as well as +more abundant. Briefly, it is my conviction that, under present +circumstances, "Tor" is a standing danger, not only to Egypt, but +to universal Europe. + +The coast about El-Wijh is famed for shells; the numerous reefs +and shoals favouring the development of the molluscs. We were +promised a heavy haul by the citizens, who, however, contented +themselves with picking up the washed-out specimens found +everywhere on the shore: unfortunately we had no time to +superintend the work. A caseful was submitted to the British +Museum, and a few proved interesting on account of their +locality. The list printed at the end of this chapter was kindly +supplied to me by Mr. Edgar A. Smith, superintendent of the +Conchological Department. + +I will conclude this chapter with a short notice the Hutaym or +Hitaym, a people extremely interesting to me. They are known to +travellers only as a low caste. Wellsted (II. xii.) tells us that +the "Huteimi," whom he would make the descendants of the +Ichthyophagi described by Diodorus Siculus and other classics, +are noticed by several Arabian authorities. "In one, the Kitab +el-Mush Serif[EN#45] (Musharrif?), they are styled ‘Hooteïn,' the +descendants of ‘Hooter,' a servant of Moses." He also relates a +legend that the Apostle of Allah pronounced them polluted, +because they ate the flesh of dogs. Others declare that they +opposed Mohammed when he was rebuilding the Ka'bah; and thereby +drew upon themselves the curse that they should be held the +"basest of the Arabs." These tales serve to prove one fact, the +antiquity of the race. + +The Hutaym, meaning the "Broken" (tribe), hold, in Midian and +Egypt, the position of Pariahs, like the Akhdám "serviles", or +Helots, of Maskat and El-Yemen. No clan of pure Arabs will +intermarry with them; and when the Fellahs say, Tatahattim +(=tatamaskin or tatazalli), they mean, "Thou cringest, thou makest +thyself contemptible as a Hutaymi." Moreover, they must pay the +dishonouring Akháwat, or "brother-tax," to all the Bedawin +amongst whom they settle. + +The Hutaym are scattered as they are numerous. They have +extended, probably in ancient times, to Upper Egypt, and occupy +parts of Nubia; about Sawákin they are an important clan. They +number few in the Sinaitic Peninsula and in Midian, but they +occupy the very heart of the Arabian Peninsula. Those settled on +Jebel Libn, we have seen, claim as their kinsman the legendary +‘Antar, who was probably a negro of the noble Semitic stock. A +few are camped about El-Wijh; and they become more important down +coast. In the eastern regions bordering upon Midian, they form +large and powerful bodies, such as the Nawámisah and the +Sharárát, whose numbers and bravery secure for them the respect +of their fighting equestrian neighbours, the Ruwalá-‘Anezah. + +Like other Arabs, the Hutaym tribe is divided into a multitude of +clans, septs, and families, each under its own Shaykh. All are +Moslems, after the Desert pattern, a very rude and inchoate +article. Wellsted knew them by their remarkably broad chins: the +Bedawi recognize them by their look; by their peculiar accent, +and by the use of certain peculiar words, as Harr! when +donkey-driving. The men are unwashed and filthy; the women walk +abroad unveiled, and never refuse themselves, I am told, to the +higher blood. + +The Arabs of Midian always compare the Hutaym with the Ghagar +(Ghajar) or Gypsies of Egypt; and this is the point which gives +the outcasts a passing interest. I have not yet had an +opportunity of carefully studying the race; nor can I say whether +it shows any traces of skill in metal-working. Meanwhile, we must +inquire whether these Helots, now so dispersed, are not old +immigrants of Indian descent, who have lost their Aryan language, +like the Egyptian Ghajar. In that case they would represent the +descendants of the wandering tribes who worked the most ancient +ateliers. Perhaps they may prove to be congeners of the men of +the Bronze Age, and of the earliest waves of Gypsy-immigration +into Europe. + + + + + + NOTE. + + + +A list of the shells collected by the second Khedivial Expedition +on the shore of Midian and the Gulf of ‘Akabah, by Edgar A. +Smith, Esq., British Museum. + +I. Gastropoda. + 1. Conus textile, Linné. + 2. Conus sumatrensis, Hwass. + 3. Conus catus var., Hwass. + 4. Conus larenatus, Hwass. + 5. Conus hebræus, Linné. + 6. Conus ividus(?), Hwass. + 6a. Conus ceylanensis, Hwass. + 7. Terebra maculata, Linné. + 8. Terebra dimidiata, Linné. + 9. Terebra consobrina, Deshayes. + 10. Terebra (Impages) cærulescens, Lamarck. + 11. Pleurotoma cingulifera, Lamarck. + 11a. Murex tribulus, Linn. + 12. Murex (Chicoreus) inflatus, Lamarck. + 13. Cassidulus paradisiacus, Reeve. + 14. Nassa coronata, Lamarck. + 15. Nassa pulla, Linné. + 16. Engina (Pusiostoma) mendicaria, Lamarck. + 17. Cantharus (Tritonidea) sp. juv. + 18. Purpura hippocastanum, Lamarck. + 19. Sistrum arachnoides, Lamarck. + 20. Sistrum fiscellum, Chemnitz. + 21. Sistrum tuberculatum, Blainville. + 22. Harpa solida, A. Adams. + 23. Fasciolaria trapezium, Lamarck. + 24. Turbinella cornigera, Lamarck. + 25. Dolium (Malea) pomum, Linné. + 26. Triton maculosus, Reeve. + 27. Triton aquatilis, Reeve. + 28. Triton (Persona) anus, Lamarck. + 29. Natica (Polinices) mamilla, Linné. + 30. Natica albula(?), Récluz. + 31. Natica (Mamilla) melanostoma, Lamarck. + 32. Solarium perspectivum, Linné. + 33. Cypræa arabica, Linné. + 34. Cypræa pantherina, Linné. + 35. Cypræa camelopardalis, Perry. + 36. Cypræa carneola, Linné. + 37. Cypræa scurra, Chemnitz. + 38. Cypræa erosa, Linné. + 39. Cypræa tabescens(?), Solander. + 40. Cypræa caurica, Linné. + 41. Cypræa talpa, Linné. + 41B. Cypraea lynx, Linné. + 42. Cerithium tuberosum, Fabricius. + 43. Turritella torulosa(?), Kiener. + 44. Strombus tricornis, Lamarck. + 45. Strombus gibberulus, Linné. + 46. Strombus floridus, Lamarck. + 47. Strombus fasciatus, Born. + 48. Pterocera truncatum, Lamarck. + 49. Planaxis breviculus, Deshayes. + 50. Nerita marmorata, Reeve. + 51. Nerita quadricolor, Gmelin. + 52. Nerita rumphii Récluz. + 53. Turbo petholatus, Linné. + 54. Turbo chrysostoma var.(?), Linné. + 55. Trochus (Pyramis) dentatus, Forskâl. + 56. Trochus (Cardinalia) virgatus, Gmelin. + 57. Trochus (Polydonta) sanguinolentus, Chemnitz. + 58. Trochus (Clanculus) pharaonis, Linné. + 59. Trochus (Monodonta) sp. + 60. Patella variabilis(?), Krauss. + 61. Chiton sp. + 62. Bulla ampulla, Linné. + +II. Conchifera + + 63. Dione florida, Lamarck. + 64. Dione sp. + 65. Tellina staurella, Lamarck. + 66. Paphia glabrata, Gmelin. + 67. Chama Ruppellii, Reeve. + 68. Arca (Barbatia) sp. + 68a Arca (Senilia) sp. + 69. Cardium leucostoma, Born. + 70. Venericardia Cumingii, Deshayes. + 71. Modiola auriculata, Krauss. + 72. Pectunculus lividus, Reeve. + 73. Pectunculus pectenoides, Deshayes. + 74. Avicula margaritifera, Linné. + 75. Tridacna gigas, Linné. + + + + + + Chapter XV. +The Southern Sulphur-hill--the Cruise to El-Haurá--Notes on the +Baliyy Tribe and the Volcanic Centres of North--Western Arabia. + + + +On the day of our arrival at El-Wijh I sent a hurried letter of +invitation to Mohammed ‘Afnán, Shaykh of the Baliyy tribe; +inviting him to visit the Expedition, and to bring with him +seventy camels and dromedaries. His tents being pitched at a +distance of three days' long march in the interior, I determined +not to waste a precious week at the end of the cold season; and +the party was once more divided. Anton, the Greek, was left as +storekeeper, with orders to pitch a camp, to collect as much +munition de bouche as possible, and to prepare for this year's +last journey into the interior. MM. Marie and Philipin, with +Lieutenant Yusuf, Cook Giorji, and Body-servant Ali Marie, were +directed to march along the shore southwards. After inspecting a +third Jebel el-Kibrít, they would bring back notices of the Wady +Hamz, near whose banks I had heard vague reports of a Gasr +(Kasr), "palace" or "castle," built by one Gurayyim Sa'íd. +Meanwhile, the rest of us would proceed in the Sinnár to +El-Haurá, a roundabout cruise of a hundred miles to the south. + +M. Philipin lost time in shoeing very imperfectly his four mules; +and M. Marie, who could have set out with eight camels at any +moment, delayed moving till March 26th. The party was composed of +a single Básh-Buzúk from the fort, and two quarrymen: the Ras +Káfilah was young Shaykh Sulaymán bin ‘Afnán--of whom more +presently--while his brother-in-law Hammád acted guide. At 6.40 +a.m. they struck to the south-east of the town, and passed the +two brackish pits or wells, Bir el-Isma'íl and El-Sannúsi, which +supply the poor of the port. Thence crossing the broad Wady +el-Wijh, they reached, after a mile's ride, Wady Melláhah, or +"the salina." It is an oval, measuring some eighteen hundred +yards from north to south: the banks are padded with brown slush +frosted white; which, in places, "bogs" the donkeys and admits +men to the knee. Beyond it lie dazzling blocks of pure +crystallized salt; and the middle of the pond is open, tenanted +by ducks and waterfowl, and visited by doves and partridges. At +the lower or northern end, a short divide separates it from the +sea; and the waves, during the high westerly gales, run far +inland: it would be easy to open a regular communication between +the harbour and its saltern. The head is formed by the large Wady +Surrah, whose many feeders at times discharge heavy torrents. The +walls of the valley-mouth are marked, somewhat like the Hárr, +with caverned and corniced cliffs of white, canary-yellow, and +light-pink sandstone. + +They then left to the right the long point Ras el-Ma'llah, +fronting Mardúnah Island. Here, as at El-‘Akabah and Makná, sweet +water springs from the salt sands of the shore; a freak of +drainage, a kind of "Irish bull" of Nature, so common upon the +dangerous Somali seaboard. The tract leads to the south-east, +never further from the shore than four or five miles, but +separated by rolling ground which hides the main. For the same +reason the travellers were unable to sight the immense +development of granite-embedded quartz, which lurks amongst the +hills to the inland or east, and which here subtends the whole +coast-line. They imagined themselves to be in a purely Secondary +formation of gypsum and conglomerates, cut by a succession of +Wady-beds like the section between El-Muwaylah and ‘Aynúnah. Thus +they crossed the mouths of the watercourses, whose heads we shall +sight during the inland march, and whose mid-lengths we shall +pass when marching back to El-Wijh. + +These exceedingly broad beds are divided, as usual, by long lines +of Nature-metalled ground. The first important feature is the +Wady Surrah, which falls into the Wady el-Wijh a little above the +harbour-pier: its proper and direct mouth, El-Gá'h (Ká'h), or +"the Hall," runs along-shore into the Melláhah. It drains the +Hamíratayn, or "Two Reds;" the Hamírat Surrah in the Rughám or +Secondary formation, and the granitic mass Hamírat el-Nabwah, +where the plutonic outbreaks begin. Amongst the number of +important formations are:--the Wady el-Miyáh, which has a large +salt-well near the sea, and down whose upper bed we shall travel +after leaving Umm el-Karáyát; the Wady el-Kurr, whose +acquaintance we shall make in the eastern region; and the Wady +el-‘Argah (‘Arjah). The latter is the most interesting. Near its +head we shall find knots of ruins, and the quartz-reef +Abá'l-Marú; while lower down the bed, on the north-east side of a +hill facing the valley, Lieutenant Yusuf came upon a rock +scrawled over with religious formulæ, Tawakkaltu ‘al' Allah ("I +rely upon Allah"), and so forth, all in a comparatively modern +Arabic character. The inscriptions lie to the left of the shore +road, and to the right of the pilgrim-highway; thus showing that +miners, not passing travellers, have here left their mark. + +After riding five hours and forty minutes (= seventeen miles) the +party reached the base of the third sulphur-hill discovered by +the Expedition on the coast of Midian. Also known as the Tuwayyil +el-Kibrít, the "Little-long (Ridge) of Brimstone," it appears +from afar a reddish pyramid rising about two miles inland of an +inlet, which is said to be safe navigation. Thus far it resembles +the Jibbah find: on the other hand, it is not plutonic, but +chalky like those of Makná and Sinai, the crystals being +similarly diffused throughout the matrix. In the adjoining hills +and cliffs the Secondaries and the conglomerates take all shades +of colour, marvellous to behold when the mirage raises to giant +heights the white coast-banks patched with pink, red, mauve, and +dark brown. Moreover, the quarries of mottled alabaster, which +the Ancients worked for constructions, still show themselves. + +The travellers slept at the base of the Tuwayyil. Next morning M. +Philipin proceeded to collect specimens of the sulphur and of the +chalcedony-agate strewed over the plain, and here seen for the +first time. M. Marie and Lieutenant Yusuf rode on to the banks of +the Wady Hamz; and, after three hours (= nine miles), they came +upon the "Castle" and unexpectedly turned up trumps. I had +carelessly written for them the name of a ruin which all, +naturally enough, believed would prove to be one of the normal +barbarous Hawáwít. They brought back specimens of civilized +architecture; and these at once determined one of the objectives +of our next journey. The party returned to El-Wijh on the next +day, in the highest of spirits, after a successful trip of more +than fifty miles. + +Meanwhile I steamed southwards, accompanied by the rest of the +party, including the Sayyid, Shaykh Furayj, and the ex-Wakíl, +Mohammed Shahádah, who is trusted by the Bedawin, and who brought +with him a guide of the Fawá'idah-Juhaynah, one Rájih ibn ‘Ayid. +This fellow was by no means a fair specimen of his race: the +cynocephalous countenance, the cobweb beard, and the shifting, +treacherous eyes were exceptional; the bellowing voice and the +greed of gain were not. He had a free passage for himself, his +child, and eight sacks of rice, with the promise of a napoleon by +way of "bakhshísh;" yet he complained aloud that he had no meat +to break his fast at dawn--an Arab of pure blood would rather +have starved. He shirked answering questions concerning the +number of his tribe. "Many, many!" was all the information we +could get from him; and his Arabic wanted the pure pronunciation, +and the choice vocabulary, that usually distinguish the Juhayni +pilots. Arrived at his own shore, he refused to make arrangements +for disembarking his rice; he ordered, with bawling accents and +pointed stick, the sailors of the man-of-war to land it at the +place chosen by himself; and he bit his finger when informed that +a sound flogging was the normal result of such impudence. + +We set out at 4.30 p.m. (March 24th); and steamed due west till +we had rounded the northern head of El-Raykhah, a long low island +which, lying west-south-west of El-Wijh, may act breakwater in +that direction. Then we went south-west, and passed to port the +white rocks of Mardu'nah Isle, which fronts the Ras el-Ma'llah, +capping the ugly reefs and shoals that forbid tall ships to hug +this section of the shore. It is described as a narrow ridge of +coralline, broken into pointed masses two to three hundred feet +high, whose cliffs and hollows form breeding-places for wild +pigeons: the unusually rugged appearance is explained by the fact +that here the "Jinns" amuse themselves with hurling rocks at one +another. Before night we had sighted the Ras Kurkumah, so called +from its "Curcuma" (turmeric) hue, the yellow point facing the +islet-tomb of Shaykh Marbat.[EN#46] Upon this part of the shore, +I was told, are extensive ruins as yet unvisited by Europeans, +the dangerous Juhaynah being the obstacle. To the south-east +towered tall and misty forms, the Gháts of the +Tihámat-Jahaníyyah. Northernmost, and prolonging the Libn, that +miniature Shárr, is the regular wall of the Jebel el-Ward; then +come the peaks and pinnacles of the Jibál el-Safhah; and lastly, +the twin blocks El-Rál, between which passes the Egyptian Hajj +when returning from El-Medínah. Faint resemblances of these +features sprawl, like huge caterpillars, over the Hydrographic +Chart, but all sprawl unnamed. + +By way of extra precaution we stood to the south instead of the +south-east, thus lengthening to one hundred and twenty knots the +normal hundred (dir. geog. sixty-eight) separating El-Wijh from +the Jebel Hassáni. Moreover, we caught amidships a fine lumpy +sea, that threatened to roll the masts out of the stout old +corvette. As the Sinnár, which always reminded me of her +Majesty's steamship Zebra, is notably the steadiest ship in the +Egyptian navy, the captain was asked about his ballast. He +replied, "I have just taken command, but I don't think there is +any; the engine (El-‘iddah) is our Saburra"--evidently he had +never seen the hold. This state of things, which, combined with +open ports, foundered her Majesty's sailing frigate Eurydice, +appears the rule of the Egyptian war-navy. I commend the +consideration to English sailors. + +The steering also was detestable; and the man at the wheel could +not see the waves--a sine quâ non to the mariner in these +latitudes, who "broaches to" whenever he can. A general remark: +The Egyptian sailor is first-rate in a Dahabiyyah (Nile-boat), +which he may capsize once in a generation; and ditto in a Red Sea +Sambúk, where he is also thoroughly at home. The same was the +case with the Sultan of Maskat's Arabo-English navy: the Arabs +and Sídís (negroes) were excellent at working their Mtepe-craft; +on frigates they were monkeys, poor copies of men. Our European +vessels are beyond and above the West Asiatic and the African. He +becomes at the best a kind of imitation Jack Tar. He will not, or +rather he cannot, take the necessary trouble, concentrate his +attention, fix his mind upon his "duties." He says "Inshallah;" +he relies upon Allah; and he prays five times a day, when he +should be giving or receiving orders. The younger generation of +officers, it is true, drinks wine, and does not indulge in +orisons whilst it should be working; but its efficiency is +impaired by the difficulties and delay in granting pensions. The +many grey beards, however carefully dyed, suggest an equipage de +vétérans. + +The consequence of yawing and of running half-speed by night was +that we reached Jebel Hassáni just before noon, instead of eight +a.m., on the 25th. The island, whose profile slopes to the +south-eastward, is a long yellow-white ridge, a lump of coralline +four hundred feet high, bare and waterless in summer: yet it +feeds the Bedawi flocks at certain seasons. It is buttressed and +bluff to the south-west, whence the strongest winds blow; and it +is prolonged by a flat spit to the south-east, and by a long tail +of two vertebrae, a big and a little joint, trending north-west. +Thus it gives safe shelter from the Wester to Arab +barques;[EN#47] and still forms a landmark for those navigating +between Jeddah, Kusayr, and Suez. Its parallel runs a few miles +north of the Dædalus Light (north lat. 24° 55' 30") to the west; +and it lies a little south of El-Haurá on the coast, and of +El-Medínah, distant about one hundred and thirty direct miles in +the interior. If Ptolemy's latitudes are to be consulted, Jebel +Hassáni would be the Timagenes Island in north lat. 25° 40'; and +the corresponding Chersónesus Point is represented by the +important and well-marked projection "Abú Madd," which intercepts +the view to the south. + +After rounding the southern spit, we turned to north-east and by +east, and passed, with a minimum of seven fathoms under keel, +between Hassáni the Giant and the dwarf Umm Sahr, a flat sandbank +hardly visible from the shore. This is the only good approach to +the secure and spacious bay that bore the southernmost Nabathæan +port-town: there are northern and north-western passages, but +both require skilful pilots; and every other adit, though +apparently open, is sealed by reefs and shoals. With the blue and +regular-lined curtain of Abú el-Ghurayr in front, stretching down +coast to Ras Abú Madd, we bent gradually round to the north-east +and east. We then left to starboard the settlement El-Amlij, a +long line of separate ‘Ushash, the usual Ichthyophagan huts, +dull, dark-brown wigwams. They were apparently deserted; at +least, only two women appeared upon the shore, but sundry +Katírahs and canoes warned us that fishermen were about. We ran +for safety a mile and three-quarters north of the exposed Ras +el-Haurá; and at 1.30 p.m. (= twenty-one hours) we anchored, in +nine fathoms, under the Kutá'at el-Wazamah. The pea-green +shallows, which defended us to the north and south, had lately +given protection to the Khedivíyyah[EN#48] steamer El-Hidayyidah, +compelled by an accident to creep along-shore like a Sambúk. + +El-Haura' is not found either in the charts, or in Ptolemy's and +Sprenger's maps. It lies in north lat. 25° 6', about the same +parallel as El-Medínah; and in east long. (Gr.) 37° 13' +30".[EN#49] Wellsted (II. x.) heard of its ruins, but never saw +it: at least, he says, "In the vicinity of El-Haurá, according to +the Arabs, are some remains of buildings and columns, but our +stay on the coast was too limited to permit our examining the +spot." He is, however, greatly in error when he adds, "Near this +station the encampments of the Bili' (Baliyy) tribe to the +southward terminate, and those of the Joheïnah commence." As has +been seen, the frontier is nearly fifty miles further north. He +notices (chap. ix.) the "White Village" to differ with Vincent, +who would place it at El-Muwaylah; but he translates the word +(ii. 461) "the bright-eyed girl," instead of Albus (Vicus). He +quotes, however, the other name, Dár el-‘ishrin ("Twentieth +Station"), so called because the Cairo caravan formerly reached +it in a score of days, now reduced to nineteen. He seems, +finally, to have landed in order to inspect "a ruined town on the +main," and to have missed it. + +According to Sprenger, the "White Village, or Castle," was not a +Thamudite, but a Nabathæan port. Here Æelius Gallius disembarked +his troops from Egypt. Strabo (xvi. c. 4, § 24) shows that +<Greek> was the starting-place of the caravans which, before +the Nile route to Alexandria was opened, carried to Petra the +merchandise of India and of Southern Arabia. Thence the imports +were passed on to Phoenicia and Egypt:--these pages have shown +why the journey would be preferred to the voyage northward. He is +confirmed by the "Periplus," which relates (chap. xix.) that +"from the port, and the castellum of Leukè Kóme, a road leads to +Petra, the capital of the Malicha (El-Malik), King of the +Nabathæans: it also serves as an emporium to those who bring +wares in smaller ships from Arabia (Mocha, Múza, and Aden). For +the latter reason, a Perceptor or toll-taker, who levies +twenty-five per cent. ad valorem, and a Hekatontarches +(centurion), with a garrison, are there stationed." As the Nabatæ +were vassals of Rome, and the whole region had been ceded to the +Romans (Byzantines) by a chief of the Beni Kudá' tribe, this +Yuzbáshi or "military commandant" was probably a Roman. + +El-Haurá, like most of the ruined settlements upon this coast, +shows two distinct "quarters;" a harbour-town and what may be +called a country-town. The latter, whose site is by far the more +picturesque and amene, lay upon a long tongue of land backing the +slope of the sea-cliff, and attached to the low whitish hillocks +and pitons rising down south. It is now a luxuriant orchard of +emerald palms forming three large patches. Behind it swells a +dorsum of golden-yellow sand; and the horizon is closed by ranges +of hills and highlands, red and white, blue and black. Our eyes +are somewhat startled by the amount of bright and vivid green: +for some reason, unknown to us, the shore is far more riant than +the northern section; and the land might be called +quasi-agricultural. The whole coast seems to be broken with +verdant valleys; from the Wady el-‘Ayn, with its numerous +branches beautifying the north, to the Wady el-Daghaybaj in the +south, supplying water between its two paps. + +On the evening of our arrival, we landed in a shallow bay bearing +north-north-east (30° mag.) from the roads where the corvette lay +at anchor; and walked a few yards inland to the left bank of the +Wady el-Samnah, the unimportant Fiumara draining low hills of the +same name. The loose sand is everywhere strewed with bits of +light porous lava, which comes from the Harrat el-Buhayr, a bluff +quoin to the north-west. About El-Haurá, I have said, the +volcanic formations, some sixty miles inland on the parallel of +El-Muwaylah, approach the coast. + +We were guided to the ruins by the shouts of sundry Arabs +defending their harvest against a dangerous enemy, the +birds--rattles and scarecrows were anything but scarce. +Apparently the sand contains some fertilizing matter. A field of +dry and stunted Dukhn (Holcus Dochna), or small millet, nearly +covers the site of the old castle, whose outline, nearly buried +under the drift of ages, we could still trace. There are two +elevations, eastern and western; and a third lies to the north, +on the right side of the Wady Samnah. Scatters of the usual +fragments lay about, and the blocks of white coralline explained +the old names--Whitton, Whitworth, Whitby. The Bedawin preserve +the tradition that this was the most important part of the +settlement, which extended southwards nearly four miles. The +dwarf valley-mouth is still a roadstead, where two small craft +were anchored; and here, doubtless, was the corner of the hive +allotted to the community's working-bees. An old fibster, Hámid +el-Fá'idi, declared that he would bring us from the adjacent +hills a stone which, when heated, would pour forth metal like +water--and never appeared again. It was curious to remark how +completely the acute Furayj believed him, because both were Arabs +and brother Bedawin. + +Next morning we set out, shortly after the red and dewy sunrise, +to visit the south end of Leukè Kóme. The party consisted of +twenty marines under an officer, besides our escort of ten negro +"Remingtons:" the land was open, and with these thirty I would +willingly have met three hundred Bedawin. Our repulse from the +Hismá had rankled in our memories, and we only wanted an +opportunity of showing fight. After rowing a mile we landed, +south-east of the anchorage (127° mag.), at a modern ruin, four +blocks of the rudest masonry, built as a store by a Yambú' +merchant. Unfortunately he had leased the ground from the +Fawá'idah clan, when the Hámidah claim it: the result was a +"faction fight"--and nothing done. + +A few minutes' walking, over unpleasantly deep sand, placed us +upon the Hajj-road. It is paved, like the shore, with natural +slabs and ledges of soft modern sandstone; and, being foot-worn, +it makes a far better road than that which connects Alexandria +with Ramleh. The broad highway, scattered with quartz and basalt, +greenstone, and serpentine, crossed one of the many branches of +the Wady el-‘Ayn: in the rich and saltish sand grew crops of +Dukhn, and the Halfá-grass (Cynosures durus) of the Nile Valley, +with tamarisk-thickets, and tufts of fan-palm. On its left bank a +lamp-black vein of stark-naked basalt, capped by jagged blocks, +ran down to the sea, and formed a conspicuous buttress. The +guides spoke of a similar volcanic outcrop above Point Abú Madd +to the south; and of a third close to Yambá' harbour. + +An hour of "stravaguing" walk showed us the first sign of the +ruins: wall-bases built with fine cement, crowning the summit of +a dwarf mound to the left of the road; well-worked scoriæ were +also scattered over its slopes. We now entered the date orchards +conspicuous from the sea: on both sides of us were fences of +thorn, tamped earth, and dry stone; young trees had been planted, +and, beyond the dates, large fields of Dukhn again gave an +agricultural touch to the scene. Flocks of sheep and goats were +being grazed all around us; and the owners made no difficulty, as +they would have done further north, in selling us half a dozen. + +We then entered the Wady Haurá, where the caravan camps. It is a +cheery charming site for rich citizens, with its plain of rich +vegetation everywhere, say the natives, undermined by water; its +open sea-view to the west; its mound of clean yellow sand behind, +extending to the rocky horizon; and its pure fresh breezes +blowing from the Nejd with an indescribable sense of lightness +and health and enjoyment. In fact, it has all the accessories of +an "eligible position." At the third or southern palm patch, we +found the only public work which remains visible in the great +Nabathaean port. It was formerly a Káríz, the +underground-aqueduct so common in Persia; and it conducted +towards the sea the drainage of the Jebel Turham, a round knob +shown in the Chart, which bears south-east (121° mag.) from the +conduit-head. The line has long ago been broken down by the +Arabs; and the open waters still supply the Hajj-caravan. The +‘Ayn ("fountain") may be seen issuing from a dark cavern of white +coralline: the water then hides itself under several filled-up +pits, which represent the old air-holes; and, after flowing below +sundry natural arches, the remains of the conduit-ceiling, it +emerges in a deep fissure of saltish stone. From this part of its +banks we picked up fair specimens of saltpetre. The lower course +abounds in water-beetles, and is choked with three kinds of +aquatic weeds. After flowing a few yards it ends in a shallow +pool, surrounded by palms and paved with mud, which attracts +flights of snipes, sandpipers, and sandgrouse. + +The turbulent "Dog's Sons"[EN#50] were mostly in the upper lands; +but a few wretched fellows, with swords, old spears, and +ridiculous matchlocks, assembled and managed to get up a squabble +about the right of leading strangers into "our country" +(Bilád-ná). The doughty Rájih ibn ‘Ayid, who, mounted upon a mean +dromedary, affected to be chief guide, seemed to treat their +pretensions as a serious matter, when we laughed them to scorn. +He and all the other experts gave us wholly discouraging details +concerning a ruin represented to lie, some hours off, in the +nearest of the southern Harrah. According to them, the Kasr +el-Bint ("Maiden's Palace") was in the same condition as +El-Haurá; showing only a single pillar, perhaps the "columns" to +which Wellsted alludes. We could learn nothing concerning the +young person whose vague name it bears; except that she preferred +settling on the mainland, whereas her brother built a +corresponding castle upon the islet Jebel Hassáni.[EN#51] He is +locally called Warakat ibn Naufal, a venerated name in the +Fatrah, or "interval," between Jesus and Mohammed; he was the +uncle of Khadijah the widow, and he is popularly supposed to have +been a Christian. Here, as at other places, I inquired, at the +suggestion of a friend, but of course in vain, about the human +skeleton which Ibn Mujáwar, some six centuries ago, found +embedded in a rock near the sea-shore. + +Such is the present condition of the once famous emporium Leukè +Kóme. We returned along the shore to embark; and, shortly after +noon, the old corvette of Crimean date again swung round on her +heel, and resumed her wanderings, this time northwards. The run +of eighteen hours and fifteen minutes was semicircular, but the +sea had subsided to a dead calm. The return to El-Wijh felt like +being restored to civilization; we actually had a salad of radish +leaves--delicious! + +Our travel will now lie through the Baliyy country, and a few +words concerning this ancient and noble tribe may here be given. +Although they apparently retain no traditions of their origin, +they are known to genealogists as a branch of the Beni Kudá', +who, some fifteen centuries ago, emigrated from Southern Arabia, +and eventually exterminated the Thamudites. I have noted their +northern and southern frontiers: to the north-east they are +bounded by the vicious Ma'ázah and the Ruwalá-‘Anezahs, and to +the south-east by the Alaydán-‘Anezahs, under Shaykh Mutlak. Like +their northern nomadic neighbours, they have passed over to +Egypt, and even the guide-books speak of the "Billi" in the +valley of the Nile. + +The Baliyy modestly rate their numbers at four thousand muskets, +by which understand four hundred. Yet they divide themselves into +a multitude of clans; our companion, the Wakíl Mohammed Shahádah, +can enumerate them by the score; and I wrote down the +twenty-three principal, which are common both to South Midian and +to Egypt. The chief Shaykh, Mohammed ‘Afnán ibn Ammár, can reckon +backwards seven generations, beginning from a certain Shaykh +Sultán. About ten years ago he allowed the tribe to indulge in +such dangerous amusements as "cutting the road" and plundering +merchants. It is even asserted, privily, that they captured the +fort of El-Wijh, by bribing the Turkish Topji ("head gunner"), to +fire high--like the half-caste artilleryman who commanded the +Talpúr cannoneers at Sir Charles Napier's Battle of "Meeanee." A +regiment of eight hundred bayonets was sent from Egypt, and the +Shaykh was secured by a Hílah, or "stratagem;" that is, he was +promised safe conduct: he trusted himself like a fool, he was +seized, clapped in irons, and sent to jail in the Citadel of +Cairo. Here he remained some seven months in carcere duro, daily +expecting death, when Fate suddenly turned in his favour; he was +sent for by the authorities, pardoned for the past, cautioned for +the future, and restored to his home with a Murátibah ("regular +pension") of eight hundred piastres per mensem, besides rations +and raiment. The remedy was, like cutting off the nose of a +wicked Hindú wife, sharp but effective. Shaykh ‘Afnan and his +tribe are now models of courtesy to strangers; and the traveller +must devoutly wish that every Shaykh in Arabia could be subjected +to the same discipline. + +The Baliyy are a good study of an Arab tribe in the rough. The +Huwaytát, for example, know their way to Suez and to Cairo; they +have seen civilization; they have learned, after a fashion, the +outlandish ways of the Frank, the Fellah, and the Turk-fellow. +The Baliyy have to be taught all these rudiments. Cunning, +tricky, and "dodgy," as is all the Wild-Man-race, they lie like +the "childish-foolish," deceiving nobody but themselves. An +instance: Hours and miles are of course unknown to them, but they +began with us by affecting an extreme ignorance of comparative +distances; they could not, or rather they would not, adopt as a +standard the two short hours' march between the Port and the +inland Fort of El-Wijh. When, however, the trick was pointed out +to them, they at once threw it aside as useless. No pretext was +too flimsy to shorten a march or to cause a halt--the northerners +did the same, but with them we had a controlling power in the +shape of Shaykh Furayj. And like the citizens, they hate our +manner of travelling: they love to sit up and chat through half +the night; and to rise before dawn is an abomination to them. + +At first their manners, gentle and pliable, contrast pleasantly +with the roughness of the half-breds, Huwaytát and Maknáwi, who +have many of the demerits of the Fellah, without acquiring the +merits of the Bedawi. As camel-men they were not difficult to +deal with; nor did they wrangle about their hire. Presently they +turned out to be "poor devils," badly armed, and not trained to +the use of matchlocks. Their want of energy in beating the bushes +and providing forage for their camels, compared with that of the +northerners, struck us strongly. On the other hand, they seem to +preserve a flavour of ancient civilization, which it is not easy +to describe; and they certainly have inherited the instincts and +tastes of the old metal-workers: they are a race of born miners. +That sharpest of tests, the experience of travel, at last +suggested to us that the Baliyy is too old a breed; and that its +blue blood wants a "racial baptism," a large infusion of +something newer and stronger. + + + + + + Note on the "Harrahs" of Arabia. + + + +The learned Dr. J. G. Wetzstein, in the appendix to his +"Reisebericht," etc.,[EN#52] records a conversation with A. von +Humboldt and Carl Ritter (April, 1859), respecting the specimens +which he had brought from the classical Trachonitis. Their +appearance led the latter to question whether the latest +eruptions of the Harrat Rájil, as it is called from an adjoining +valley, may not have taken place within the historic period; and +he referred to Psalm xviii. as seeming to note the occurrence, +during David's reign, of such a phenomenon in or near Palestine. +Humboldt deemed it probable that the Koranic legend (chap. iv.) +of the Abyssinian host under Abraha destroyed by a shower of +stones baked in hell-fire, referred, not to small-pox as is +generally supposed, but to an actual volcanic eruption in Arabia. + +"With what interest would that great man have learnt," writes Dr. +Wetzstein, "that, as I was turning over the leaves of Yákút's +‘Geographical Lexicon,' only a few days ago, I found that the +Arabians knew of the existence of twenty-eight different volcanic +regions between Hauran and Bab el-Mandeb!" Later still, Dr. Otto +Loth published an elaborate paper "On the Volcanic Regions +(Harras) of Arabia, according to Yakut" (thirteenth century), in +which these eruptive sites are nearly all identified and +described. + +"Among the numerous volcanoes thus found to exist within the +Arabian Peninsula," remarks Dr. Beke,[EN#53] "the only one +recorded as having been in activity within the historic period is +the Harrat-el-Nar (‘Fire Harra'), situate to the north-east of +Medina, in the neighbourhood of Khaibur (Khaybar), in about 26°. +30' north lat., and 40°. east long.; which, being traditionally +said to have been in an active state six centuries before +Mohammed, had actually an eruption in the time of the Prophet's +successor, Omar. To the north-west of this ‘Fire Harra' lies that +known as the ‘Harra of (the tribe of) Udhra' (Azra): again, to +the north of this is the ‘Harra of Tabuk,' so called from the +station of that name on the Hajj-road from Damascus to Mekka, the +position of which is in about 28 deg. 15' north lat. and 37 deg. +east long.; and beyond this last, further to the north, and +consequently between it and the northernmost Harra of the Râdjil, +or Trachonitis, is the Harra Radjlâ. . . . Its designation, which +means ‘rough,' ‘pathless,' seems to indicate its peculiarly +rugged surface, and to lead to the inference that it is an +immense field of lava." He cites Irby and Mangles ("Travels in +Egypt," pp. 115, 116; reprinted by Murray, London, 1868), +describing their route between Kerak and Petra, on the east side +of the Ghor or Wady ‘Arabah. "We noticed three dark volcanic +summits, very distinguishable from the land. The lava that had +streamed from them forms a sort of island in the plain." + +Hence my late friend concluded that his "true Mount Sinai" was +the focus and origin of this volcanic region; and that the latter +was the "great and terrible wilderness" (Deut. i. 19) through +which the children of Israel were led on their way to mysterious +Kadesh-Barnea. Thus, too, he explained the "pillar of the cloud +by day," and the "pillow of fire by night" (Exod. xiii. 21). + + + + + + Chapter XVI. +Our Last March--the Inland Fort--Ruins of the Gold-mines at Umm + El-Karáyát and Umm El-Haráb. + + + +Again there were preliminaries to be settled before we could +leave El-Wijh for the interior. Shaykh Mohammed ‘Afnán had been +marrying his son; and the tale of camels came in slowly enough. +On the day after our return from El-Haurá the venerable old man +paid us a visit aboard Sinnár. He declares that he was a boy when +the Wahhábi occupied Meccah and El-Medínah--that is, in 1803-4. +Yet he has wives and young children. His principal want is a pair +of new eyes; and the train of thought is, "I can't see when older +men than myself can." The same idea makes the African ever +attribute his sickness and death to sorcery: "Why should I lose +life when all around me are alive?"--and this is the idea that +lies at the bottom of all witch-persecution. Two pair of +spectacles were duly despatched to him after our return to Cairo; +and M. Lacaze there exhibited a capital sketch of the +picturesque, white-bearded face, with the straight features and +the nutcracker chin, deep buried in the folds of a huge red +shawl. + +The son, Sulaymán, has been espoused to a cousin older, they say, +than himself; and he seems in no hurry to conclude the marriage. +He would willingly accompany us to Egypt, but he is the father's +favourite, and the old man can do nothing without him. A youth of +about eighteen, and even more handsome than his sire, he has the +pretty look, the sloping shoulders, the soft snaky movements, and +the quiet, subdued voice of a nice girl. During the first marches +he dressed in the finery of the Bedawin--the brilliant +head-kerchief, the parti-coloured sandals, and the loose cloak of +expensive broadcloth. The "toggery" looked out of place as the +toilettes of the Syrian ladies who called upon us in laces and +blue satins amid the ruins of Ba'lbek. Although all the hired +camels belonged, as is customary, to the tribe, not to the +Shaykh, the latter was accompanied by the usual "Hieland tail;" +by his two nephews, Hammád and Náji, the latter our head-guide, +addicted to reading, writing, and lying; by his favourite and +factotum, Abdullah, an African mulatto, Muwallid or "house-born;" +and by his Wakíl ("agent"), a big black slave, Abdullah Mohammed, +ready of tongue and readier of fist. Lastly, I must mention one +‘Audah ‘Adayni, a Huwayti bred in the Baliyy country, a traveller +to Cairo, passing intelligent and surpassing unscrupulous. +Confidential for a consideration, he told all the secrets of his +employers, and it is my firm conviction that he was liberally +paid for so doing by both parties of wiseacres. + +The immediate objective of this, our last march, was the Badá +plain, of which we first heard at Shaghab. I purposed +subsequently to collect specimens of a traditional coal-mine, to +which his Highness the Viceroy had attached the highest +importance. Then we would march upon the Móchoura of the +ancients, the mediaeval El-Marwah or Zú Marwah, the modern +Marwát-cum-Abá'l-Marú. Finally, we would return to El-Wijh, viâ +the Wady Hamz, inspecting both it and the ruins first sighted by +MM. Marie and Philipin. + +On Friday, March 29th, I gave a breakfast, in the wooden +barracks, to the officers of the Sinnár and the officials of the +port. After which, some took their opium and went to sleep; while +others, it being church-day, went to Mosque. We ran out of +El-Wijh at 1.45 p.m., our convoy consisting of fifty-eight +camels, forty-four of which were loaded; seven were dromedaries, +and an equal number carried water. All had assured us that the +rains of the two past years had been wanting: last winter they +were scanty; this cold season they were nil. In truth, the land +was suffering terribly from drought. Our afternoon was hot and +unpleasant: about later March the Hawá el'-Uwwah, a violent +sand-raising norther, sets in and lasts through a fortnight. It +is succeeded, in early April, by the calms of El-Ni'ám ("the +Blessings"), which, divided into the Greater and the Less, last +forty days. After that the summer--Jehannum! + +From the raised and metalled bank, upon which the Burj stands, we +descended to the broad mouth of the Wijh valley, draining the low +rolling blue-brown line of porphyritic hillocks on the east. To +our right lay the sparkling, glittering white plain and pool, +El-Melláhah, "the salina." After an hour and a quarter of sandy +and dusty ride, we passed through a "gate" formed by the +Hamírat-Wijh, the red range which, backing the gape of the valley +and apparently close behind the town, strikes the eye from the +offing. Here the gypsum, ruddy and mauve, white and black, was +underlaid by granite in rounded masses; and the Secondary +formation is succeeded by the usual red and green traps. Though +this part of our route lies in El-Tihámah, which, in fact, we +shall not leave, we are again threading the Wady Sadr of the +northern Shafah-range. A pleasant surprise was a fine vein of +sugary quartz trending north-south: at that period we little +suspected the sub-range to the south--perhaps also the +northern--of being, in places, one mighty mass of "white stone." + +After covering six miles in an hour and three-quarters, +exaggerated by the guides to three, we suddenly sighted the +inland fort. Its approach is that of a large encamping-ground, +and such, indeed, it is; the Egyptian pilgrim-caravan here halts +on the fourth day from El-Muwaylah. The broken, untidy environs, +strewed with bones and rubbish, show low mounds that mean ovens; +stone rings, where tents are pitched; and the usual graves, +amongst which a reverend man, Shaykh Sálih, rests in a manner of +round tower. The site is, in one point at least, admirably +well-chosen, a kind of carrefour where four valleys and as many +roads meet; and thus it commands the mouths of all the gorges +leading inland. + +Riding up to the fort, we were welcomed by its commandant, +Lieutenant Násir Ahmed, a peculiarly good specimen of his arm, +the infantry. His garrison consists of thirteen regulars, whose +clean uniforms show discipline, and whose hale and hearty +complexions testify to the excellence of the water and the air. +The men are paid annually by the treasurer of the Hajj-caravan. +They are supposed to be relieved after seven years; but they have +wives and families; and, like the British soldier in India half a +century ago, they are content to pass their working lives in +local service. The commandant showed us over his castle, which +was in excellent order; and brewed coffee, which we drank in the +cool porch of the single gate. He then led us about the +neighbourhood, and ended with inviting the Sáyyid, Furayj, and +the Wakíl Mohammed Shahádah to a copious feast. + +The fort is the usual square, straight-curtained work of solid +masonry, with a circular bastion at each angle, and a huge arched +main-entrance in the western façade. It is, in fact, one of the +buildings that belong to the solid, sturdy age of Sultán Selim, +and of the Sinnán Pasha so well known about Damascus. An +inscription, with an illegible date, bears the name of Ahmed ibn +Taylún, the founder of the Taylunide dynasty, in A.D. 868--884: +this is another proof that the Mamlúk Soldans were lords of the +soil; and that, even in the ninth century, South Midian was a +province, or a dependency, of Egypt. Moreover, we picked up, to +the north-east of the work, old and well-treated scoriæ, +suggesting a more ancient settlement. Perhaps it was the locale +preferred by the proprietors of the slaves who worked the inner +mines, hidden from view and from the sea-breeze by the hills. + +The castle being perfectly commanded by the heights behind, the +circular towers to the east have crests raised in that direction, +giving them a spoon-shape, and a peculiar aptitude for arresting +every cannon-ball coming from the west. The Bedawin, however, +have no great guns; and apparently this shelter has been added +since Wellsted's day.[EN#54] To the curtains are attached the +usual hovels, mat, palm-leaf, and walls of dry stone or mud, +which here, as at Palmyra, inevitably suggest wasp-nests. The +northern side is subtended by three large cisterns, all +strengthened at the inner angles by the stepped buttresses first +noticed when we were exploring Magháir Shu'ayb. + +Up the valley and behind the fort, or to the north-east, lie the +palm-plantations, the small kitchen-gardens, and the far-famed +wells which, dug by Sultán Selim and repaired by Ibrahim Pasha in +A.D. 1524 (?), supply the Hajj-caravan. The sandy bed, disposed +east-west, is streaked, dotted, and barred with walls and +outcrops of the hardest greenstone porphyry; and those which run +north-south must arrest, like dykes, the flow of water +underground. One of these reefs is laboriously scraped with +Bedawi Wusúm, and with Moslem inscriptions comparatively modern. +The material is heavy, but shows no quartz; whereas the smaller +valleys which debouch upon the northern or right bank of the main +line, display a curious conformation of the "white stone," +contorted like oyster shells, and embedded in the trap. + +Of the six wells, revetted with masonry and resembling in all +points those of Ziba, four, including El-Tawílah, the deepest, +supply brackish water; and the same is the case with a fifth +inside the fort, close to the chapel of his Holiness, Shaykh +Abubakr. The water, however, appeared potable; and perhaps +cleaning out and deepening might increase the quantity. The sweet +element drunk by the richards of El-Wijh comes from the Bir +el-Za'faráníyyah ("of Saffron"), and from its north-eastern +neighbour, El-‘Ajwah ("the Date-paste"). The latter measures four +or five fathoms; and the water appears under a boulder in situ +that projects from the southern side. The reader will now agree +with me that El-Wijh is not too drouthy for a quarantine-ground. + +The plots of green meat lie about the water, sheltered from the +burning sun by a luxuriant growth of date-trees. The Egyptian is +the best man in the world for dabbling in mud; and here, by +scraping away the surface-sand, he has come upon a clayey soil +sufficiently fertile to satisfy his wants. The growth is confined +to tobacco, potatoes, and cabbages, purslain (Portulaca, +pourpier), radishes, the edible Hibiscus, and tomatoes, which are +small and green. Lettuces do not thrive; cucumbers and +water-melons have been tried here and up country; and--man wants +little in Midian. + +We set out early on the next day (5.30 a.m., March 30th) in +disorderly style. The night had been cool and comfortable, dry +and dewless; but the Shaykhs were torpid after the feast, and the +escort and quarrymen had been demoralized by a week of sweet +"do-nothing." Striking up the Wady el-Wijh, which now becomes +narrow and gorge-like, with old and new wells and water-pits +dotting the sole, we were stopped, after half an hour's walk, by +a "written rock" on the right side of the bed. None of the guides +seemed to know or, at any rate, to care for it; although I +afterwards learnt that Admiral M'Killop (Pasha), during his last +visit to El-Wijh, obtained a squeeze of the inscriptions. +Wellsted (II. x.) erroneously calls this valley "Wádí el-Moyah," +the name of a feature further south--thus leading me to expect +the find elsewhere. Moreover, he has copied the scrawls with a +carelessness so prodigious, that we failed at first to recognize +the original. He has hit upon the notable expedient of massing +together in a single dwarf wood-cut (Vol. II. p. 189) what covers +many square feet of stone; and I was fool enough to republish his +copy.[EN#55] + +A tall, fissured rock, of the hardest porphyritic greenstone, +high raised from the valley-sole, facing north-west, and +reducible to two main blocks, is scattered over with these +"inscriptions," that spread in all directions. Most of them are +Arab Wusum, others are rude drawings of men and beasts, amongst +which are conspicuous the artless camel and the serpent; and +there is a duello between two funny warriors armed with sword and +shield. These efforts of art resemble, not a little, the "Totem" +attempts of the "Red Indians" in North and South America. There +are, however, two scrapings evidently alphabetic, and probably +Nabathæan, which are offered to the specialists in epigraphy: six +appear in Wellsted's illustration, especially that with a long +line above it, near the left and lower corner of the cut. M. +Lacaze and I copied the most striking features in our carnets; he +taking the right or southern side and leaving the other block to +me. But the results did not satisfy us; and on April 10th I sent +him with M. Philipin to make photographs. The latter, again, are +hardly as satisfactory as they might be, because the inscriptions +have not been considered the central points of interest. We shall +pass during our present journey many of these Oriental "John +Joneses" and "Bill Browns:" they will suggest the similar +features of Sinaitic Wady Mukattib, which begot those monstrous +growths, "The One Primaeval Language" and "The Voice of Israel +from Mount Sinai."[EN#56] From the "written rock" the caravan +travelled westward up an easy watercourse, "El-Khaur," +distinguished as El-Shimálí ("the Northern"): it winds round by +the north, and we shall descend it to-morrow. The mule-riders +left the Wady el-Wijh, which extends some two hours eastward, and +struck to the east-south-east. The bridle-path, running up the +left bank of an ugly rocky torrent, the Wady Zurayb, presently +reaches a plateau undulating in low rises. Burnt with heat, +almost bare of trees, and utterly waterless, it is the model of a +mining country: elevate it from five hundred to nine thousand +feet, and it would be the living (or dead) likeness of a Peruvian +cerro. The staple material, porphyritic trap, shows scatters of +quartz and huge veins, mostly trending north-south: large +trenches made, according to the guides, by the ancients, and +small cairns or stone piles, modern work, were also pointed out +to us. + +Crossing the heads of sundry watercourses, we fell into the Wady +Umm el-Karáyat:[EN#57] it begins, as is here the rule, with a +gravelly bed, nice riding enough; it then breaks into ugly rocky +drops and slides, especially at the hill shoulders, where +thorn-trees and other obstacles often suggest that it is better +to dismount; and, finally, when nearing the mouth, it becomes a +matured copy of its upper self on an enlarged scale. Presently we +turned to the left over a short divide, and stared with +astonishment at the airy white heap, some two hundred feet high, +which, capped and strewed with snowy boulders, seemed to float +above our heads. The Wady-bed at our feet, lined along the left +bank with immense blocks of similar quartz, showed the bases of +black walls--ruins. "Behold Umm el-Karáyát!" exclaimed Nájí, the +guide, pointing with a wave of the arm, his usual theatrical +gesture, to the scene before us. We could hardly believe our +eyes: he had just assured us that the march from the fort is four +hours, and we had ridden it in two hours and fifteen minutes (= +six miles and a quarter). + +Dismounting at once, and ordering the camp to be pitched near the +ruins, we climbed up the south-eastern face of the quartz-hill, +whose appearance was a novelty to us. Instead of being a regular, +round-headed cone, like the Jebel el-Abyaz for instance, the +summit was distinctly crateriform. The greater part of the day +was spent in examining it, and the following are the results. +This Jebel el-Marú showed, for the first time during the whole +journey, signs of systematic and civilized work. In many parts +the hill has become a mere shell. We found on the near side a +line of air-holes, cut in the quartz rock, disposed north-south +of one another; and preserving a rim, sunk like that of a +sarcophagus, to receive a cover. Possibly it was a precaution +against the plunder which ruined Brazilian Gongo Soco. The Arabs +have no fear of these places, as in Wellsted's day, and Abdullah, +the mulatto, readily descended into one about twelve feet below +the surface. Messrs. Clarke and Marie explored the deepest by +means of ropes, and declared that it measured sixty feet. They +had to be ready with their bayonets, as sign of hyenas was +common; and the beast, which slinks away in the open is apt, when +brought to bay in caverns, to rush past the intruder, carrying +off a jawful of calf or thigh. + +This pit had two main galleries, both choked with rubbish, +leading to the east and west; and the explorers could see light +glimmering through the cracks and crevices of the roof--these +doubtless gave passage to the wild carnivore. In other parts the +surface, especially where the earth is red, was pitted with +shallow basins; and a large depression showed the sinking of the +hollowed crust. Negro quartz was evidently abundant; but we came +to the conclusion that the rock mostly worked was, like that of +Shuwák, a rosy, mauve-coloured schist, with a deep-red fracture, +and brilliant colours before they are tarnished by atmospheric +oxygen. It abounds in mica, which, silvery as fish-scales, +overspreads it in patches; and the precious metal had probably +been sought in the veinlets between the schist and its +quartz-walling. In two pieces, specks, or rather paillettes, of +gold were found lightly and loosely adhering to the "Marú ;" so +lightly, indeed, that they fell off when carelessly pocketed +Veins of schist still remained, but in the galleries they had +been followed out to the uttermost fibril. + +Reaching the crateriform summit, we found that the head of the +cone had either "caved in," or had been carried off bodily to be +worked. Here traces of fire, seen on the rock, suggested that it +had been split by cold affusion. A view from the summit of this +burrowed mound gave us at once the measure of the past work and a +most encouraging prospect for the future. We determined that the +Marwah or "quartz-hill" of Umm el-Karáyát was the focus and +centre of the southern mining region, even as the northern +culminates in the Jebel el-Abyaz. Further experience rejected the +theory, and showed us half a dozen foci and centres in this true +quartz-region. The main hill projects a small southern spur, also +bearing traces of the miner. The block of green trap to the +south-west has a capping and a vein-network of quartz: here also +the surface is artificially pitted. Moreover, there are detached +white-yellow pitons to the north-east, the east, and the south; +whilst a promising hillock, bearing nearly due north, adjoins the +great outcrop. All have rounded conical summits and smooth sides, +proving that they are yet virgin; and here, perhaps, I should +prefer to begin work. + +At our feet, and in north lat. 26° 13', lies the settlement, in a +short gravelly reach disposed north-west to south-east; and the +bed is enclosed by a rim of trap and quartz hills. The ruins lie +upon a fork where two gorges, running to the east and the +north-east, both fall into the broad Wady el-Khaur, and the +latter feeds the great Wady el-Miyáh, the "Fiumara of the +Waters," of which more presently. The remains on the upper +(eastern) branch-valley show where the rock was pulverized by the +number of grinding implements, large and small, coarse and fine, +all, save the most solid, broken to pieces by the mischievous +Bedawi. Some are of the normal basalt, which may also have served +for crushing grain; others are cut out of grey and ruddy +granites: a few are the common Mahrákah or "rub-stones," and the +many are handmills, of which we shall see admirable specimens +further on. One was an upper stone, with holes for the handle and +for feeding the mill: these articles are rare. I also secured the +split half of a ball, or rather an oblate spheroid, of serpentine +with depressions, probably where held by finger and thumb; the +same form is still used for grinding in the Istrian island of +Veglia. This is one of the few rude stone implements that +rewarded our careful search. + +The north-eastern, which is the main Wady, has a sole uneven with +low swells and falls. It was dry as summer dust: I had expected +much in the way of botanical collection, but the plants were not +in flower, and the trees, stripped of their leaves, looked "black +as negroes out of holiday suits." Here lie the principal ruins, +forming a rude parallelogram from north-east to south-west. The +ground plan shows the usual formless heaps of stones and pebbles, +with the bases of squares and oblongs, regular and irregular, +large and small. There were no signs of wells or aqueducts; and +the few furnaces were betrayed only by ashen heaps, thin scatters +of scoriæ, and bits of flux--dark carbonate of lime. Here and +there mounds of the rosy micaceous schist, still unworked, looked +as if it had been washed out by the showers of ages. The general +appearance is that of an ergastulum like Umm Ámil: here perhaps +the ore was crushed and smelted, when not rich enough to be sent +down the Wady for water-working at the place where the inland +fort now is. + +The quarrymen, placed at the most likely spots, were ordered to +spall rock for specimens: with their usual perversity, they +picked up, when unwatched, broken bits of useless stuff; they +spent the whole day dawdling over three camel-loads, and they +protested against being obliged to carry the sacks to their +tents. Meanwhile Nájí, who had told marvellous tales concerning a +well in the neighbouring hills, which showed the foundations of +houses in its bowels, was directed to guide Lieutenant Amir. He +objected that the enormous distance would be trying to the +stoutest mule, and yet he did not blush when it was reached after +a mile's ride to the southwest (240° mag.). It proved to be a +long-mouthed pit, sunk in the trap hill-slope some four fathoms +deep, but much filled up; and, so far from being built in, it had +not even the usual wooden platform. Eastward of it, and at the +head of the Wady Shuwaytanah, "the Devilling," lay a square ruin +like a small Mashghal of white quartz: here also were three +stones scribbled with pious ejaculations, such as Yá Allah! and +Bismillah, in a modern Kufic character. + +Umm el-Karáyát, "the Mother of the Villages," derives her title, +according to the Baliyy, from the numerous offspring of minor +settlements scattered around her. We shall pass several on the +next day's march, and I am justified in setting down the number +at a dozen. The Wady el-Kibli, the southern valley, was visited +by Lieutenants Amir and Yusuf on April 8th, when we were encamped +below it at Abá'l-Marú[EN#58]. After riding about six miles to +the north-north-west, down the Wady el-Mismáh and up the Wady +el-‘Argah, they reached, on the left bank of the latter, the +ruins known as Marú el-Khaur. The remains of the daughter are +those of the "mother." There are two large heaps of quartz to the +north and to the south-east of the irregular triangle, whose +blunted apex faces northwards: the south-eastern hill shows an +irregular Fahr ("pit") in the reef of white stone, leading to a +number of little tunnels. + +I lost all patience with Wellsted,[EN#59] whose blunders +concerning the Umm el-Karáyát are really surprising, even for a +sailor on camel-back. He reaches the ruins after ten miles from +the fort, when they lie between twelve and thirteen from El-Wijh. +He calls the porphyritic trap "dark granite." He makes the grand +quartz formation "limestone, of which the materials used for +constructing the town (coralline!) appear to have been chiefly +derived." He descends the "caves" with ropes and lights; yet he +does not perceive that they are mining shafts and tunnels, puits +d'air, adits for the workmen, and pits by which the ore was +"brought to grass." And the Hydrographic Chart is as bad. It +locates the inland fort six miles and three-quarters from the +anchorage, but the mine is thrust eastwards ten miles and a +quarter from the fort; the latter distance being, as has been +seen, little more than the former. Moreover, the ruins are placed +to the north, when they lie nearly on the same parallel of +latitude as El-Wijh. Ahmed Kaptán fixed them, by solar +observations, in north lat. 26° 13', so that we made only one +mile of southing. It ignores the porphyritic sub-range in which +the "Mother of the Villages" lies: and it brings close to the +east of it the tall peaks of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah' which, from +this point, rise like azure shadows on the horizon. Finally, it +corrupts Umm el-Karáyát to Feyrabat. "Impossible, but true!" + +The night at the ruins was dry and cool, even cold; disturbed +only by the coughing of the men, the moaning of the camels, and +the bleating of the sheep. We would willingly have spent here +another day, but water and forage were absolutely wanting; and +the guides assured us that even greater marvels, in the shape of +ruins and quartz-reefs, lay ahead. We set out shortly after five +a.m. (March 31st): the morning was pearly and rosy; but puffs of +a warmer wind announced the Dufún (local Khamsin), which promised +us three days of ugly working weather. Leaving Umm el-Karáyát by +the upper or eastern valley-fork, we soon fell into and descended +its absorbent, the broad (northern) Wady el-Khaur. Upon the right +bank of the latter rose the lesser "Mountain of Quartz," a cone +white as snow, looking shadowy and ghostly in the petit jour, the +dim light of morning. For the next two hours (= seven miles) we +saw on both sides nothing but veins and outcrops of "Marú," +worked as well as unworked. All was bare and barren as the +gypsum: the hardy ‘Aushaz (Lycium), allied to the tea-tree, is +the only growth that takes root in humus-filled hollows of the +stone. + +Presently the quartz made way for long lines and broad patches of +a yellow-white, heat-altered clay, often revetted with iron, and +passably aping the nobler rock: from one reef I picked up what +appeared to be trachyte, white like that of Shaghab. The +hill-casing of the valley forms no regular line; the heaps of +black, red, and rusty trap are here detached and pyramidal, there +cliffing as if in presence of the sea. The vegetation improved as +we advanced; the trees were no longer black and heat-blasted; and +we recognized once more the dandelion, the thistle, the senna, +the Aristida grass, and other familiar growths. Tents, shepherds, +and large flocks of goats and kids showed that water was not +distant; and, here in Baliyy-land, even the few young women +seemed to have no fear of the white face. + +After a slow, dull ride in the burning and sickly wind, we +crossed the head of our former route, Wady Zurayb the Ugly, and +presently entered the Wady el-Kubbah ("of the Cupola,"), where +our immediate destination rose before us. It is a grisly black +saddleback, banded with two perpendicular stripes of dark stone +that shines like specular iron; and upon its tall northern end, +the pommel, stands a small ruin, the oft spoken of "Dome." +Sketches of paths wind up the western flank; but upon this line, +we were assured, no ruins are seen save a few pits. So we rounded +the block by the north, following the broad Wady to the Máyat +el-Kubbah, water-pits in the sand whose produce had not been +libelled when described as salt, scanty, and stinking. The track +then turned up a short, broad branch-Wady, running from south to +north, and falling into the left bank of the "Dome Valley:" a few +yards brought us to a halt at the ruins of El-Kubbah. We had +pushed on sharply during the last half of the way, and our +morning's ride had lasted four hours (= thirteen miles). + +The remains lie in the uneven quartzose basin at the head of the +little lateral watercourse: they are built with good cement, and +they evidently belong to the race that worked the "Mother of the +Villages;" but there is nothing to distinguish them except the +ruins of a large Sákiyah ("draw-well"), with its basin of +weathered alabaster. We were perplexed by the shallow conical +pits in the porphyritic trap, to the east and west of the "Dome +Hill;" the ground is too porous for rain cisterns, and the depth +is not sufficient for quarrying. The furnaces showed the normal +slag; but the only "metals" lying around them were poor +iron-clay, and a shining black porphyry, onyxed with the whitest +quartz. There were, however, extensive scatters of Negro, which +had evidently been brought there; and presently we found large +heaps of rosy-coloured, washed-out schist.[EN#60] These explained +the raison d'être of this dreary and dismal hole. + +Meanwhile the juniors ascended the rocky "Kubbah" hill, which +proved to be a small matter of 120 feet (aner. 29.34) above the +valley-sole (aner. 29.46). The "Dome" was nothing but a truncated +circle of wall, porphyry and cement, just large enough to hold a +man; the cupola-roof, if there ever had been one, was clean gone; +and adjoining it yawned a rock-cut pit some fifteen feet deep. I +came to the conclusion that here might have been a look-out +where, possibly, the "bale-fire" was also lit. The +"ascensionists" brought back a very healthy thirst. + +We rested till noon in the filmy shade of the thorn-trees. The +caravan was at once sent forward to reach the only good water, +lying, said the guides, many a mile beyond. We had made up our +minds for a good long march; and I was not a little vexed when, +after half an hour, we were led out of the Wady el-Kubbah, whose +head, our proper line, lies to the north, into its eastern +influent, the Wady el-Dasnah. Here, after an afternoon "spell" of +forty-five minutes (= two miles and a half), and a total of four +hours and forty-five minutes (= fifteen miles and a half), a day +nearly half wasted, we found the tents pitched. The heat had +strewed the Wady with soldiers and quarrymen; and the large pit +in the bed, supplying "water sweet as the Nile,', showed a swarm +of struggling blacks, which the Egyptian officers compared with +Aráfít or "demons;" we with large pismires. A sentinel was placed +to prevent waste and pollution at the Máyat el-Dasnah, whose +position is in north lat. 26° 23'. + +April Fools' day was another that deserved to be marked with a +white stone. I aroused the camp at 3.30 a.m., in order that the +camels might load with abundance of water: we were to reach the +springs of Umm Gezáz, but a presentiment told me that we might +want drink. At that hour the camp was a melancholy sight: the +Europeans surly because they had discussed a bottle of cognac +when they should have slept; the good Sayyid without his coffee, +and perhaps without his prayers; Wakíl Mohammed sorrowfully +attempting to gnaw tooth-breaking biscuit; and the Bedawin +working and walking like somnambules. However, at 5.10 a.m. we +struck north, over a low divide of trap hill, by a broad and +evidently made road, and regained the Wady el-Kubbah: here it is +a pleasant spectacle rich in trees, and vocal with the cooing of +the turtle-dove. After an hour's sharp riding we reached its +head, a fair round plain some two miles across, and rimmed with +hills of red, green, and black plutonics, the latter much +resembling coal. It was a replica of the Sadr-basin below the +Hismá, even to the Khuraytah or "Pass" at the northern end. Here, +however, the Col is a mere bogus; that is, no raised plateau lies +beyond it. + +We crossed a shallow prism and a feeding-basin: an ugly little +gorge then led to the important Wady Sirr. We are now in the +hydrographic area of the Wady Nejd,[EN#61] which, numbering +influents by the dozen, falls into the Salbah (Thalbah) of Sharm +Dumaghah. The Sirr, though still far from its mouth, is at least +three miles broad; and the guides speak of it as the Asl +el-Balawíyyah, or "Old Home of the Baliyy." The view from its bed +is varied and extensive. Behind us lies the Tihámat-Balawíyyah, +the equivalent of the Gháts of North Midian, from the Zahd to the +Shárr. The items are the little Jebel ‘Antar, which, peeping over +the Fiumara's high left bank, is continued south by the lower +Libn. The latter attaches to the higher Libn, whose triad of +peaks, the central and highest built of three distinct +castellations, flush and blush with a delicate pink-white cheek +as it receives the hot caresses of the sun. We are now haunted by +the Libn, which, like its big brother the Shárr, seems everywhere +to accompany us. + +Beyond the neutral ground, over which we are travelling, appear +in front the pale-blue heights bordering the Wady Nejd to the +north-west, and apparently connected with the Jebelayn el-Jayy in +the far north (30° mag.). To the north-east the view is closed by +the lumpy Jebel el-Kurr (the Qorh of Arabian geographers?); +followed southwards by the peaked wall of the Jebel el-Ward, and +by El-Safhah with its "Pins." For the last eighteen miles we had +seen no quartz, which, however, might have veined the +underground-rock. The sole of the Sirr now appeared spread with +snow, streaked and patched with thin white paint; the stones were +mostly water-rolled, the discharge of valleys draining from afar. +The ground was unpleasantly pitted and holed; the camels were +weak with semi-starvation and the depressing south-wester; +Lieutenant Amir put his dromedary to speed, resulting in a +nose-flattening fall; and the Sayyid nearly followed suit. + +This is our second day of Khamsin; yet on the northern slope of +the great Fiumara we meet the cool land-wind. Either it or the +sea-breeze generally sets in between seven and eight a.m., when +the stony, sandy world has been thoroughly sunned. The short +divide beyond the far bank of the Sirr is strewn with glittering +mica-schist that takes the forms of tree-trunks and rotten wood; +and with dark purple-blue fragments of clay-slate looking as if +they had been worked. A counterslope of the same material, which +makes excellent path-metal placed us in the Wady Rubayyigh ("the +Little Rábigh" or "Green-grown Spring"), a short and +proportionally very broad branch draining to the Sirr. Here large +outcrops of quartz mingled with the clay slate. A few yards +further it abutted upon a small gravelly basin with ruins and a +huge white reef of "Mará," which caused a precipitate +dismounting. We had marched only four hours (= thirteen miles); +but the loss of time has its compensations. Our Arabs, who +consider this a fair day's work, will now, in hopes of a halt, +show us every strew of quartz and every fragment of wall. They +congratulated us upon reaching a part of their country absolutely +unvisited by Europeans. + +The site of our discovery was the water-parting of the Wady +Rubayyigh with the Wady Rábigh, both feeders of the Sirr; this to +the north, that to the south. The ruins, known as Umm el-Haráb, +"Mother of Desolation," are the usual basement-lines: they lie in +the utterly waterless basin, our camping-ground, stretching west +of Mará Rubayyigh, the big white reef. This "Mother" bears nearly +north of Umm el-Karáyát, in north lat. 26° 33' 36" (Ahmed +Kaptán): her altitude was made upwards of a thousand feet above +sea-level (aner. 28.92) + +At Umm el-Haráb we saw for the first time an open mine, +scientifically worked by the men of old. They chose a pear-shaped +quartz-reef; the upper dome exposed, the converging slopes set +and hidden in green trap to the east and west, and the invisible +stalk extending downwards, probably deep into Earth's bowels. +They began by sinking, as we see from certain rounded apertures, +a line of shafts striking north-north-east (45°--50° mag.) to +south-south-west across the summit, which may measure one hundred +and twenty yards. The intervening sections of the roof are now +broken away; and a great yawning crevasse in the hill-top gives +this saddleback of bare cream-coloured rock, spangled with white +where recently fractured, the semblance of a "comb" or cresting +reef. + +We descended into this chasm, whose slope varies from a maximum +of 45° to a minimum of 36° at the south. The depth apparently did +not exceed thirty feet, making allowance for the filling up of +centuries; but in places the hollow sound of the hammer suggested +profounder pits and wells. I should greatly doubt that such +shallow sinking as this could have worked out any beyond the +upper part of the vein. Here it measures from six to eight feet +in diameter, diminishing to four and a half and even three below. +The sloping roof has been defended from collapse by large pillars +of the rock, left standing as in the old Egyptian quarries; it +shows the clumsy but efficient practice that preceded timbering. +The material worked was evidently the pink-coloured and +silver-scaled micaceous schist; but there was also a whitish +quartz, rich in geodes and veinlets of dark-brown and black dust. +The only inhabitants of the cave, bats and lizards (Gongylus +ocellatus, L., etc.), did not prevent M. Lacaze making careful +study of the excavation; the necessity of brown shadows, however, +robs the scene of its charm, the delicate white which still +shimmers under its transparent veil of shade. Similar features +exist at El-Muwaylah and El-Aujah, in the wilderness of Kadesh: +but those are latomiæ; these are gold mines.[EN#62] + +Another sign of superior labour is shown by the quartz-crushing +implements. Here they are of three kinds: coarse and rough +basaltic lava for the first and rudest work; red granite and +syenitic granite for the next stage; and, lastly, an admirable +handmill of the compactest grey granite, smooth as glass and hard +as iron. Around the pin-hole are raised and depressed concentric +circles intended for ornament; and the "dishing" towards the rim +is regular as if turned by machinery. We have seen as yet nothing +like this work; nor shall we see anything superior to it. All are +nether millstones, so carefully smashed that one can hardly help +suspecting the kind of superstitious feeling which suggested +iconoclasm. The venerable Shaykh ‘Afnán showed a touching +ignorance concerning the labours of the ancients; and, when +lectured about the Nabat (Nabathæans), only exclaimed, "Allah, +Allah!" + +In the evening we ascended the porphyry hills to the north of the +little camping-basin; and we found the heights striped by two +large vertical bands of quartz. The eastern vein, like the Jebel +el-Marú, has a north-east to south-west strike (45° mag.); the +western runs east-west with a dip to south. From the summit we +could see that the quartz-mountain, as usual an exaggerated vein, +is hemmed in on both sides by outcrops and hills of trap, black, +green, and yellow, which culminate eastward in the Jebel el-Guráb +(Juráb). We had a fine bird's-eye view of the Wady Rábigh, and of +our next day's march towards the Shafah Mountains: the former was +white with quartz as if hail-strewn. Far beyond its right bank +rose an Ash'hab, or "grey head," which seemed to promise +quartzose granite: it will prove an important feature. Before +sleeping, I despatched to El-Wijh two boxes of micaceous schist +and two bags of quartz, loads for a pair of camels. + + + + + + Chapter XVII. +The March Continued to El-Badá–Description of the Plain Badais. + + + +After the exciting scenes of the last three days, this stage was +dull riding, and consequently, I fear, it will be dull reading as +well as writing. We set off afoot betimes (5.10 a.m.) in the +still warm morning that augured Khamsín: the third day was now +telling heavily on man and beast. A walk of ten minutes led down +the rough line of the little water-course draining the Marú +Rubayyigh to the Wady Rábigh. At a re-entering angle of the +junction, a shallow pit was sunk; the sand became moist and red, +and presently it was underlaid by a rubble of porphyritic trap. +Nothing more! + +We then crossed the Wady Rábigh, another of the short broad +valleys which distinguish this section of South Midian. The bed +sides, especially the right, are heaps and mounds of snowy +quartz, with glittering crowns of block and boulder: all prove to +be veins in the grey granite, whose large coarse elements are +decomposed by weather. The dark and rusty walls of the valley +also discharge the white stone in shunts and shoots: here and +there they might be mistaken for Goz ("sand-banks") heaped up by +the wind, except that these are clad in thin vegetation, whereas +the "Maru'" is mostly mother-naked. We halted here for rest and +to examine these features: despite the Khamsín, the Great Gaster +became querulous; hunger was now the chief complaint, and even +the bon ordinaire had lost much of its attraction. A harmless +snake was killed and bottled; its silver robe was beautifully +banded with a line, pink as the circles of the "cobra coral," +which ran along the whole length of the back. It proved to be a +new species; and Dr. Gunther named it Zamenis elegantissimus. + +Beyond the Rábigh, we ascended a lateral valley, whence a low +divide led to the Wady el-Bahrah ("of the Basin"), another feeder +of the Sirr. It was also snow-white, and on the right of the path +lay black heaps, Hawáwít, "ruins" not worth the delay of a visit. +Then began a short up-slope with a longer counterslope, on which +we met a party of Huwaytát, camel-men and foot-men going to buy +grain at El-Wigh. Another apparition was a spear-man bestriding a +bare-backed colt; after reconnoitering us for some time, he +yielded to the temptations of curiosity. It afterwards struck us +that, mounted on our mules, preceded and followed by the Shaykhs +riding their dromedaries, we must have looked mighty like a party +of prisoners being marched inland. The horseman was followed by a +rough-coated, bear-eared hound of the kind described by +Wellsted[EN#63] as "resembling the English mastiff"--he did not +know how common is the beast further north. The Kalb gasúr +(jasur) or "bold dog," also called Kalb el-hámi, or "the hot" +(tempered), is found even amongst the Bedawin to the east of the +Suez Canal; but there the half-bred is more common than the +whole-blood. It is trained to tend the flocks; it never barks, +nor bites its charges; and it is said to work as well as the +shepherd-dog of Europe. + +The Wady Mulaybij shows fine specimens of mica dorí in the +quartz-vein streaking the slate: it deceived all the caravan, +save those who tested it with their daggers. The bed, after +forming a basin, narrows to a sandy gut, smooth and pleasant +riding; and, after crossing several valley-heads, the path +debouches upon the Wady Abál-Gezaz. This "Father of Glass," +though a day and a half's march from the sea, is even broader +than the great Sirr to which it is tributary. Its line, which +reminded us of the Dámah, is well marked by unusually fine +vegetation: and the basin bears large clumps of fan-palm, +scattered Daum-trees, the giant asclepiad El-‘Ushr,[EN#64] +thickets of tamarisk and scatters of the wild castor-plant, whose +use is unknown to the Arabs. Water wells up abundantly from a +dozen shallow pits, old and new, in the sand of the southern or +left bank. Here the flow is apparently arrested by a tall +buttress of coarse granite, red with orthose, and sliced by a +trap-dyke striking north-south. + +Our day's work had been only four slow hours; but we were +compelled to await the caravan, which did not arrive till after +noon. It had passed round by the Wady Rábigh, into and up the +"Father of Glass;" in fact, it had described an easy semicircle; +while we had ridden in a series of zigzags, over rough and +difficult short cuts. A delay was also necessary for our mappers +to connect this march with their itinerary of the central region. +Already the Wady Mulaybij had shown us the familiar peak and +dorsum of Jebel Raydán; and we had "chaffed" Furayj about his +sudden return home. From our camp in the Abá'l-Gezáz, the Zigláb +block of Shaghab bore nearly north (350° mag.); and the adjoining +Jebel el-Aslah, also a blue cone on the horizon, rose about two +degrees further north. + +After the big mess-tent had been duly blown down, and the usual +discipline had been administered for washing in the +drinking-pool; we crossed to the left of the Wady by way of an +evening stroll, and at once came upon an atelier of some +importance. The guides seemed to ignore its existence, so we +christened it Mashghal Alá'l-Gezáz. On the slope of a trap-hill +facing the Wady el-Ghami's, the southern valley which we had last +crossed, stood a square of masonry scattered round with fragments +of pottery, glass, and basalt. Below it, on the "mesopotamian" +plain, lay the foundations of houses still showing their cemented +floors. The lowlands and highlands around the settlement looked +white-patched with mounds, veins, and scatters of quartz. The +evening was stillness itself, broken only by the cries of the +Katás, which are now nesting, as they flocked to drink; and the +night was cool--a promise, and a false promise, that the Khamsín +had ended on its usual third day. + +The next morning (April 3rd) showed us El-Bada', the whole march +lying up the Wady Abá'l-Gezáz, which changes its name with every +water. The early air was delightfully fresh and brisk, and the +cattle stepped out as if walking were a pleasure: yet the Arabs +declared that neither camels nor mules had found a full feed in +the apparently luxuriant vegetation of the Fiumara-bed. The tract +began badly over loose sandy soil, so honeycombed that neither +man nor beast could tread safely: the Girdi (Jirdi), or "field +rat," is evidently nocturnal like the jerboa, during the whole +journey we never saw a specimen of either. A yellow wolf was +descried skulking among the bushes, and a fine large hare was +shot; porcupine-quills were common, and we picked up the mummy of +a little hedgehog. The birds were swift-winged hawks and owls, +pigeons and ring-doves; crows again became common, and the +water-wagtail was tame as the Brazilian thrush, João de Barros: +it hopped about within a few feet of us, quite ignoring the +presence of Frenchmen armed with murderous guns. I cannot discern +the origin of the pseudo-Oriental legend which declares that the +"crow of the wilderness" (raven) taught Cain to bury his brother +by slaying a brother crow, and scraping a grave for it with beak +and claw. The murderous bird then perched upon a palm-tree, whose +branches, before erect, have ever drooped, and croaked the truth +into Adam's ear: hence it has ever been of evil augury to +mankind. The hoopoe, which the French absurdly call coq de +montagne, also trotted by the path-side without timidity; and the +butcher-bird impudently reviewed the caravan from its +vantage-ground, a commanding tree. The large swift shot screaming +overhead; and the cries of the troops of Merops, with +silver-lined wings, resembled those of the sand-grouse. + +After some five miles the "Father of Glass" changed his name to +Abú Daumah (of the "one Theban Palm"). Porphyritic trap lay on +both sides of us. To the right rose the Jebel ‘Ukbal, whose grey +form (El-Ash'hab) we had seen from the heights above Umm +el-Haráb: the whole range of four heads, forming the +south-western rim of the Badá saucer, is known as El-‘Akábil. +Below these blocks the Wady-sides were cut into buttresses of +yellow clay, powdered white with Sabkh, or "impure salt." Charred +circlets in the sand showed where alkali had been burned: the +ashes, packed in skins, are shipped at El-Wijh for Syria, where +they serve to make soap. The Bedawin call it Aslah (Athlah); the +Egyptians Ghassálah ("the washer"), because, when rubbed in the +hands, its succulent shoots clean the skin. Camels eat it, +whereas mules refuse it, unless half-starved. This plant +apparently did not extend all up the Wady. The water, where there +is any, swings under the left bank; an ample supply had been +promised to us, with the implied condition that we should camp at +this Mahattat el-‘Urbán ("Halting place of the Arabs"), after a +marching day of two hours! Seeing that we rode on, the Baliyy +declared that they had searched for the two principal pools, and +that both were dry, or rather had been buried by the Bedawin. +But, with characteristic futility, they had allowed me to +overhear their conversation; and the word was passed to the +soldiers, who at once filled themselves and their water-skins. + +Hitherto we had been marching south of east. Presently, where the +pretty green Wady el-Surám falls into the left bank, we turned a +corner, and sighted in front, or to the north, the great plain of +Badá. The block, El-‘Akábil, had projected a loop of some ten +miles to be rounded, whereas a short cut across it would not have +exceeded three. And now the Wady Abá Daumah abruptly changed +formation. The red and green traps of the right side made way for +grey granite, known by its rounded bulging blocks on the sides +and summit, by its false stratification, by its veins of quartz +that strewed the sand, and by its quaint weathering--one rock +exactly resembled a sitting eagle; a second was a turtle, and a +third showed a sphinx in the rough. The Badá plain is backed by a +curtain so tall that we seemed, by a common optical delusion, to +be descending when we were really ascending rapidly. + +Anxiety to begin our studies of the spot made the ride across the +basin, soled with rises comfortably metalled, and with falls of +sand unpleasantly loose and honeycombed, appear very long. The +palm-clump, where men camp, with its two date-trees towering over +the rest, receded as it were. At last, after a total of four +hours and forty-five minutes (= sixteen miles), we dismounted at +the celebrated groves, just before the ugly Khamsín arose and +made the world look dull, as though all its colours had been +washed out. + +The dates form a kind of square with a sharp triangle to the +south, upon the left bank of the thalweg, which overflows them +during floods. The enceinte is the normal Arab "snake-fence" of +dry and barked branches, which imperfectly defends the nurseries +of young trees and the plots of Khubbayzah ("edible mallows") +from the adjoining camping-place of bald yellow clay. The wells, +inside and outside the enclosure, are nine; three stone-revetted, +and the rest mere pits in the inchoate modern sandstone. The +trees want thinning; the undergrowth is so dense as to be +impenetrable; but the heads are all carefully trimmed, the first +time we have seen such industry in Midian. The shade attracts +vipers, chiefly the Echis: and I was startled by hearing the gay +warble of the Bulbul--a nightingale in Arabia! + +The next day was devoted to inspecting this far-famed site, with +the following results. We have already seen a Bada' <Arabic> and +a Badí'a <Arabic>, whilst there is a Badí'ah <Arabic>[EN#65] +further north. We are now at a Badá <Arabic> which fulfils all +the conditions required by the centre and head-quarters of +"Thamuditis." The site of the Bújat Badá, "the Wide Plain of +Badá," as it is distinguished by the Arabs, represents, +topographically speaking, a bulge in the Wady Nejd, before it +becomes the Wady Abú Daumah, between the Shafah Mountains to the +east and the Tihámah range seawards. The latitude is 26° 45' 30" += 0° 31' 30" north of El-Wijh [Footnote: Ahmed Kaptán's +observation of Polaris. The <Greek> (Bades) of Ptolemy is +in north lat. 25° 30'.]. From its centre, a little south of our +camping-place, the Jebel Zigláb of Shaghab, distant, according to +Yákút, one march, bears 32°, and the Aslah (Athlah) cone 30° +(both mag.): it lies therefore south of Shuwák, with a little +westing. The altitude is upwards of twelve hundred feet above +sea-level (aner. 28.72). The size of the oval is about nine +statute miles from north to south, where the main watercourse +breaks; and twelve miles from east to west, giving an area of +some 108 square miles. The general aspect of the basin suggests +that of El-Haurá; the growth is richer than the northern, but not +equal to that of the southern country. The ruins belong to the +Magháir Shu'ayb category, and the guides compare the Hawáwít with +those of Madáin Sálih. + +Such is the great station on the Nabathæan overland highway +between Leukè' Kóme and Petra; the commercial and industrial, +the agricultural and mineral centre, which the Greeks called +<Greek> the Romans, Badanatha (Pliny, vi. 32); and the +mediæval Arab geographers, Badá Ya'kúb, in the days when the +Hajj-caravan used to descend the Wadys Nejd and the "Father of +Glass." Now it is simply El-Badá: the name of the "Prophet" +Jacob, supposed to have visited it from Egypt or Syria, being +clean forgotten. + +The rolling plain is floored with grey granite, underlying +sandstones not unlike coral-rag, and still in course of +formation. Through this crust outcrop curious hillocks, or rather +piles of hard, red, and iron-revetted rock, with a white or a +rusty fracture--these are the characteristics of the basin. The +lower levels are furrowed with their threads of sand, beds of +rain-torrents discharged from the mountains; and each is edged by +brighter growths of thorn and fan-palm. The fattening Salíb grass +is scattered about the water; the large sorrel hugs the +Fiumara-sides; the hardy ‘Aushaz-thorn (Lycium), spangled with +white bloom and red currants, which the Arabs say taste like +grapes, affects the drier levels; and Tanzubs, almost all timber +when old, become trees as large as the Jujube. + +The Bújat is everywhere set in a regular rim of mountains. The +Shafah curtain to the north is fretted with a number of peaks, +called as usual after their Wadys;[EN#66] the west is open with a +great slope, the Wady Manab, whose breadth is broken only by the +"Magráh" Naza'án, a remarkable saddleback with reclining cantle. +It is distant a ride of two hours, and we have now seen it for +three marches. A little south of east yawns the gorge-mouth of +the Wady Nejd, the upper course of the Abá'l-Gezáz: a jagged +black curtain, the Jebel Dausal, forms its southern jaw. Further +south the Tihámah Mountains begin with the peaky Jebel el-Kurr, +another remarkable block which has long been in sight. Its +neighbour is the bluff-headed Jebel el-Wásil of Marwát; whilst +the trap-blocks, already mentioned as the Jibál el-‘Akábil, +finish the circle. + +The better to understand the shape of the ruins, we will ascend +the irregular block which rises a few furlongs to the north-east +of the palm-orchard. It has only three names: ‘Araygat Badá +("Veinlet of Badá"); Zeba'yat Badá, "the Low-lying (Hill) of +Badá;" and Shahíb el-Búm, "the Ash-coloured (Hill) of the Owl." I +will prefer the latter, as we actually sighted one of those dear +birds on its western flank. It is an outcrop of grey granite, +pigeon-holed by weather, and veined by a variety of dykes. Here +we find greenstone breccia'd with the blackest hornblende; there +huge filons of hard, red, heat-altered clays, faced with iron, +whilst the fracture is white as trachyte; and there filets of +quartz, traversing large curtains and sheets of light-coloured +argils. This was evidently the main quarry: the sides still show +signs of made zigzags; and the red blocks and boulders, all round +the hill, bear the prayers and pious ejaculations of the +Faithful. The characters range between square Kufic, hardly +antedating four centuries, and the cursive form of our day. Some +are merely scraped; others are deeply and laboriously cut in the +hard material, a work more appropriate for the miner than for the +passing pilgrim. + +From the ruined look-out on the summit the shape of the city +shows a highly irregular triangle of nine facets, forming an apex +at the east end of our "Owl's Hill:" the rises and falls of the +ground have evidently determined the outline. The palm-orchard, +whose total circumference is five hundred and thirty-six metres, +occupies a small portion of its south-eastern corner; and our +camping-place, further east, was evidently included in the +ancient enceinte. The emplacement, extending along the eastern +bank of the main watercourse, is marked by a number of mounds +scattered over with broken glass and pottery of all kinds: no +coins were found, but rude bits of metal, all verdigris, were +picked up north of the palm-orchard. Here, too, lay queer +fish-bones, with tusks and teeth, chiefly the jaws of Scaridæ and +Sparidæ (seabreams).[EN#67] + +Descending the Shahíb el-Búm, and passing a smaller black and +white block appended to its south-south-western side, we now +cross to the left bank of the main drain. Here lies the broken +tank, the normal construction of El-Islam's flourishing days. It +is a square of thirty-two metres, whose faces and angles do not +front the cardinal points. At each corner a flight of steps has +been; two have almost disappeared, and the others are very shaky. +The floor, originally stone-paved, is now a sheet of hard silt, +growing trees and bush: dense Tanzub-clumps (Sodada decidua), +with edible red berries, sheltering a couple of birds'-nests, +suggested a comparison between the present and the past. At the +east end is the Makhzan el-Máyah, or "smaller reservoir," an +oblong of 7.80 by 6.60 metres: the waggon-tilt roof has +disappeared, and the fissures show brick within the ashlar. Along +the eastern side are huge standing slabs of the coarse new +sandstone with which the tank is lined: these may be remains of a +conduit. Around the cistern lies a ruined graveyard, whose +yawning graves supplied a couple of skulls. A broken line of +masonry, probably an aqueduct, runs south-south-east (143° mag.) +towards the palms: after two hundred metres all traces of it are +lost. + +The mining industry could not have been a prominent feature at +Badá, or we should have found, as in Shaghab and Shuwák, furnaces +and scoriæ. Yet about the tank we lit upon large scatters of +spalled quartz, which, according to the Baliyy, is brought from +the neighbouring mountains. Some of it was rosy outside: other +specimens bore stains of copper; and others showed, when broken, +little pyramids of ore. Tested in England, it proved to be pure +lead, a metal so rare that some metallurgists have doubted its +existence: the finds have been mostly confined to auriferous +lands. The blow-pipe soon showed that it was not galena (the +sulphide), but some of it contained traces of silver. Without +knowing the rarity of these specimens, certain American officers +at the Citadel, Cairo, compared them with the true galenas of the +Dár-Forian mines, called Mahattat el-Risás (the "Deposit of +Lead"), in the Wady Gotam, three days north-east of the capital +El-Fashr. The African metal is rich. Large quantities, analyzed +by Gastinel Bey, gave fifty per cent. of lead, and of silver +fifty dollars per ton; but the distance from any possible market +will reserve these diggings for the use of the future. Some were +sanguine enough to propose smelting the metal at Khartúm, where +Risás is ever in demand; and accordingly, for a time Dar-For was +"run," by a mild "ring," against Midian. + +The plain, I have said, is everywhere broken by piles of stone +forming knobby hills. Leaving the outlined sphinx to the right, +we ascended a second block, which rises on the west of the chief +watercourse, further down than the "Owl's Hill." This Tell +el-Ahmar ("Red Hill"), alias Ja'dat Badá (the "Curved Hill of +Bada'"), is a quoin of grey granite bluff to the south-west. The +north-eastern flank shows the normal revetment of ruddy and black +heat-altered grit, which gives a red back to the pale-sided, +drab-coloured heap. Over the easy ascent is run a zigzag path; +half-way, up it passes piles of stone that denote building, and +it abuts at the summit upon one of those "look-outs" which are +essentially Arab. + +Again, to the south-east of the palms is the Huzaybat Badá, the +"(Isolated) Hillock of Badá," a low ridge of naked grey granite, +much scaled and pigeon-holed. On the plain to its north stretch +regular lines of stone, probably the remnants of a work intended +to defend the city's eastern approach. South of the Huzaybah +appear the usual signs of an atelier: these workshops are +doubtless scattered all around the centre; but a week, not a day, +would be required to examine them. On the very eve of our +departure the guides pointed northwards (350° mag.) to a +"Mountain of Marú," called El-Arayfát, and declared that it +contained a Zaríbat el-Nasárá, or "enclosure made by the +Nazarenes." I offered a liberal present for specimens; all, +however, swore that the distance ranged from two to three hours +of dromedary, and that no mounted messenger could catch us unless +we halted the next day. + +The Bedawin, still relegated to the upper country, were sending +their scouts to ascertain if the water-supply was sufficient in +Badá plain. The adjacent valleys were dotted with she-camels and +their colts. The adult animal here sells for twelve to thirty +dollars. During the cotton-full in Egypt, and the cotton-famine +of the United States, they fetched as many pounds sterling at the +frontier; and the traders of El-Wijh own to having made two +hundred per cent., which we may safely double. I asked them why +they did not import good stallions from the banks of the Nile; +and the reply was that of the North Country--the experiment had +ended in the death of the more civilized brutes. This is easily +understood: the Baliyy camel seems to live on sand. + +The camp was visited by a few Bedawi stragglers, and the reports +of their immense numbers were simply absurd. The males were not +to be distinguished, in costume and weapons, from their +neighbours; and the "females" were all dark and dressed in +amorphous blue shirts. At last came an old man and woman of the +Huwaytát tribe, bringing for sale a quantity of liquefied butter. +They asked a price which would have been dear on the seaboard; +and naively confessed that they had taken us for pilgrims,--birds +to be plucked. But sheep and goats were not to be found in the +neighbourhood: yesterday we had failed to buy meat; and to-day +the young Shaykh, Sulaymán, was compelled to mount his dromedary +and ride afar in quest of it. The results were seven small sheep, +which, lean with walking, cost eleven dollars; and all were +slaughtered before they had time to put on fat. + +During our stay a pitiable object, with a hide- bandaged lower +leg, often limped past the tents; and, thinking the limb broken, +I asked the history of the accident. Our hero, it appears, was a +doughty personage, famed for valour, who had lately slipped into +the Juhayni country with the laudable intention of "lifting" a +camel. He had, indeed, "taken his sword, and went his way to rob +and steal," under the profound conviction that nothing could be +more honourable--in case of success. He was driving off the +booty, when its master sallied out to recover the stolen goods by +force and by arms. Both bared their blades and exchanged cuts, +when the Baliyy found that his old flamberge was too blunt to do +damage. Consequently he had the worse of the affair; a slicing of +the right hand forced him to drop his "silly sword." He then +closed with his adversary, who again proved himself the better +man, throwing the assailant, and at the same time slashing open +his left leg. The wounded man lay in the "bush" till he gathered +strength to "dot and go one" homewards. Amongst these tribes the +Diyat, or "blood-money," reaches eight hundred dollars; +consequently men will maim, but carefully avoid killing, one +another. + +The evening of our halt, with its lurid haze and its ominous +brooding stillness, was distinguished by a storm, a regular Arab +affair, consisting of dust by the ton to water by the drop. This +infliction of the "fearful fiend, Samiel, fatal to caravans," +began in the west. A cloud of red sand advanced like a +prairie-fire at headlong speed before the mighty rushing wind, +whose damp breath smelt of rain; and presently the mountain-rim +was veiled in brown and ruddy and purple earth-haze. A bow in the +eastern sky strongly suggested, in the apparent absence of a +shower, refraction by dust--if such thing be possible. We were +disappointed, by the sinister wind, in our hopes of collecting a +bottle of rain-water for the photographer; nor did the storm, +though it had all the diffused violence of a wintry gale, +materially alter the weather. The next two nights were brisk and +cool, but the afternoons blew either the Khamsín ("south-wester") +or the Azyab ("south-easter"). + +The only Bedawi tradition concerning the Bada' plain is the +following. Many centuries ago, some say before the Apostle, the +Baliyy held the land, which was a valley of gardens, a foretaste +of Irem; the people were happy as the martyrs of Paradise, and +the date-trees numbered two thousand. The grove then belonged to +a certain Ibn Mukarrib, who dwelt in it with his son and a slave, +not caring to maintain a large guard of Arabs. Consequently he +became on bad terms with the Ahámidah-Baliyy tribe, who began +systematically to rob his orchard. At last one of a large +plundering party said to him, "O Ibn Mukarrib! wilt thou sell +this place of two thousand (trees), and not retreat (from thy +bargain)?" He responded "Buy!" (i.e. make an offer). The other, +taking off his sandal, exclaimed. "With this!" and the +proprietor, in wrath, rejoined, "I have sold!" + +Ibn Mukarrib then arose and went forth, with his son and the +slave, to the place whence came the water (that fed the palms): +this he closed up, and fared towards the north. One day it so +happened that the three were sitting under the shade of a +Marakh-tree and eating its berries. Quoth the sire to the son, +"Say, which is the sweeter, the eating of the Marakh fruit or the +dates of our orchard?" And the youth rejoined, "O my father! far +sweeter is the eating of the fruit of our palm-yard;" when his +sire at once arose and slew him with the sword (to wipe away the +disgrace of such want of manliness). + +Then Ibn Mukarrib turned to the slave, and asked him the question +which he had asked of his son. Whereupon the slave replied in +this quatrain: + + "Eating wild grain in the house of respect; + And not eating dates in the house of contempt: + And walking in honour but a single day; + And not sitting in disgrace for a thousand years!" + +Ibn Mukarrib, pleased with these words, forthwith adopted the +slave; both marched to the north and dwelt there till the end of +their days. The palm-trees, deprived of irrigation, all died; and +Bújat-Badá, the beautiful, became a wilderness. About twenty +years ago, the wells were reopened and the dates were replanted. +So much for the past: as for the future, we may safely predict +that, unless occupied by a civilized people, the Badá plain will +again see worse times. Nothing would be easier than to rebuild +the town, and to prepare the basin for irrigation and +cultivation; but destruction is more in the Bedawi line. + + + + + + Chapter XVIII. + Coal a "Myth"--March to Marwát--Arrival at the Wady Hamz. + + + +Before leaving Badá I was careful to make all manner of inquiries +concerning stone-coal; and the guides confirmed the suspicions +which had long suggested themselves. His Highness the Viceroy had +laid great stress upon the search: the first question to me on +return was whether the fuel had been found; and a shade of +disappointment appeared when the answer distinctly declared it a +myth. + +This coal, it appears, is an old story. My learned friend +Sprenger wrote to me (June 13, 1877): "It is likely that west of +Marwa, on the way to Hawrá (which lies on the sea-shore), coal is +found: I confess that the prospect of discovering much coal in +Arabia does not appear to me very great; still it would be worth +while to make inquiries." Subsequently (December 8, 1877), he +gave up all hopes of the pure mineral, but he still clave to +bituminous schist. El-Mukaddasi (p. 103),[EN#68] treating of the +marvels of the land, has the following passage unconnected with +those which precede and succeed it:--"A fire arose between +El-Marwat and El-Haurá, and it burned, even as charcoal (el-Fahm) +burns." Probably Sprenger had read, "and it (the stone) burned as +charcoal burns," suggesting that the houses and huts were built +of inflammable material, like the bituminous schist of the +Brazil; and that the Arabs were surprised to find them taking +fire. Evidently, however, the text refers to an eruption in one +of the many Harrahs or volcanic districts. El-Mukaddasi describes +the "houses artful (farihín, alluding to the Thamúdites in the +Koran, xxvi. 149), and made of admirable stone (alabaster?); over +the doors were knots (‘Ukúd), and ornaments (Turúh), and carvings +(Nukúsh)." + +Landing at El-Wijh, I at once consulted our intelligent friend, +the Wakíl Mohammed Shahádah. He had sent for a camel-load of the +stuff, which, he declared, would not burn, although it had burned +his money. He then travelled in person to the Jebel el-Muharrak +("Burnt Mountain"), five short marches inland from El-Badá plain, +and behind its northern curtain, the Jibál el-Shafah. According +to him, El-Muharrak is part of the great Harrah; and the +unexplored Jaww, which lies north (?) of it, is a prolongation of +the Hismá plateau, here belonging to the Balawíyyah or +Baliyy-land. The mountain is tall and black, apparently +consisting of the "coal." Near its summit lies the Bir el-Shifá' +("Well of Healing"), a pit of cold sulphur-water, excellent for +the eyes; and generally a "Pool of Bethesda," whither Arabs flock +from afar. At Abá'l-Gezáz, Mohammed destroyed all our surviving +hopes by picking up a black stone which, he declared, belonged to +El-Muharrak. It was schist, with a natural fracture not unlike +coal, and weathered into the semblance of wood: unfortunately it +was hard as iron, and it did not contain an atom of bitumen. + +At Badá old Shaykh ‘Afnán, whose tents are now pitched one day +ahead of us, was taken into consultation upon the subject. He +confirmed these statements of the Wakíl, adding that the Shafah +Mountains are a mere ridge, not the seaward walls of a plateau, +and that the land east of them is exactly that which we have +already traversed. He had bathed in the sulphur-water; he spoke +of brimstone being picked up on the hill-flanks, and he had heard +of El-Kohl (stibium, collyrium, antimony) being found about +El-Muharrak.[EN#69] + +These details, apparently authentic, did not tempt me to waste +precious time upon El-Muharrak. I do not yet despair, as has been +said, of finding coal in Arabia; but we must hardly expect +volcanic ground to yield it. + +Our preparations for a march southwards were made under +difficulties. The Baliyy evidently like the prospect of some £6 +per diem; and do not like the idea of approaching the frontier, +where their camels may be stolen. Every silly, childish pretext +was used to suggest delay. We ought not to move without seeing +the "Nazarenes' Ruin" at El-‘Arayfát. Again, I had sent a certain +Salim, a cousin of the Shaykh, with orders for fresh supplies +from El-Wijh: he was certain to miss us if we marched. Still +again, old ‘Afnán's dromedary had a thorn in the foot--u. s. w. + +Nevertheless, an order was given for the return march on April +5th. + +No matter how philosophical the traveller may be, I defy him not +to feel some emotion when, his Desert work being duly done, he +throws his leg over the saddle, and turn the animal's head +homewards--towards London. Such was our pleasant predicament; +for, though the détour would be considerable, and the delay still +more so, I could distinguish the bourne at the far end of the +very long perspective. + +We were now in excellent marching order, not, however, including +the mules, of which two had broken down with sore backs, and the +others were breaking fast. The réveillé sounded at 3 to 3.30 +p.m.; the "general" followed at four; and the start took place +immediately afterwards. The camels are wretched animals, that +work equally badly full and fasting: when hungry, they break +their halters to graze along the path; and when gorged they are +too lazy to go beyond a saunter of two miles an hour. Yet they +can work well when pushed: the man Sa'lim came up with us on the +evening of the fourth day, after a forced march of thirty-two +hours. + +We took the track which crosses the Bújat-Badá to the south-east. +For a short way it was vilely rat-eaten; presently it issued upon +good, hard, stony ground; and, after four miles, it entered the +Wady el-Marwát. This gorge, marked by the Jebel Wásil, a round +head to the north, is a commonplace affair of trap and white +clay; broad, rough, and unpicturesque. The sole shows many piles +of dry stone, ruins of "boxes," in which the travelling Arab +passes the night, whilst his camels are tethered outside. The +watercourse heads in a Khuraytah, the usual rock-ladder; we +reached it after eleven miles' riding. Nájí, the sea-lawyer of +the party, assured us that we had not finished a third of the +way, when two-thirds would have been nearer the truth. + +The Wady sides and head showed traces of hard work, especially +where three veins of snowy quartz had been deeply cut into. The +summit of the Col, some 2100 feet above sea-level, carried a fine +reef of "Marú," measuring eight feet at the widest, and trending +332° (mag.) Around it lay the usual barbarous ruins, mere +basements, surrounded by spalled stone: from this place I carried +off a portable Kufic inscription. The view down the regular and +tree-dotted slope of the Wady el-Marwát, as far as the flats of +Badá, was charming, an Argelèz without its over-verdure. + +From the Col two roads lead to our day's destination. The short +cut to the right was reported stony: as most of our mules were +casting their irons and falling lame, I avoided it by the advice +of Furayj, thereby giving huge offence to old ‘Afnán. We followed +the long slope trending to the Wady el-Kurr, which drains the +notable block of that name. Seeing the Wakíl, and the others in +front, cutting over the root to prevent rounding a prodigiously +long tongue-tip, I was on the qui vive for the normal dodge; and +presently the mulatto Abdullah screamed out that the Nakb must be +avoided, as it was all rock. We persisted and found the path +almost as smooth as a main road. The object was to halt for the +night at a neighbouring water-hole in the rocks; and, when their +trick failed, the Baliyy with a naive infantine candour, talked +and laughed over their failure, sans vergogne and within earshot. + +Despite the many Zawábahs ("dust-devils"), this was one of our +finest travelling days. After the usual ante-meridian halt, we +pushed on down the valley, meeting only a few donkey-drivers. At +2.15 p.m. (seven hours = twenty miles and a half), we reached the +beautiful ‘Ayn el-Kurr, some ten direct miles east of the Wady +Rábigh; and the caravan was only one hour behind us. This Wady is +a great and important affluent of the Wady el-Miyáh already +mentioned. The reach where we camped runs from north to south; +and the "gate" of porphyritic trap, red, green, yellow, and white +with clay, almost envelops the quartz-streaked granite. The walls +are high enough to give shade between eight a.m. and 2.15 p.m.; +and the level sole of the cleanest sand is dotted, near the right +side, with holes and pools of the sweetest water. Here "green +grow the rushes," especially the big-headed Kasbá (Arundo donax); +the yellow-tipped Namas or flags (Scirpus holoschænus) form a +dense thicket; the ‘Ushr, with its cork-like bark which makes the +best tinder, is a tree, not a shrub; and there are large natural +plantations of the saffron-flowered, tobacco-like Verbascum, the +Arab's Uzn el-Humár ("Donkey's Ear"). Add scattered clusters of +date-trees, domineering over clumps of fan-palm; and, lastly, +marvellous to relate, a few hundred feet of greensward, of +regular turf--a luxury not expected in North-Western Arabia--a +paradise for frogs and toads (Bufo vulgaris), grasshoppers, and +white pigeons; and you will sympathize with our enjoyment at the +‘Ayn el-Kurr. In such a place extensive ruins of the "Old Ones" +were to be expected. Apparently there is no trace of man beyond +Wasm on the rocks; a few old Bedawi graves in a dwarf Wady +inflowing from the west; a rude modern watercourse close above +its mouth, and Arab fences round the trimmed dates and newly set +palm shoots. + +During the afternoon the Shaykhs came to us with very long faces. +At this season, and as long as the Baliyy are in the Shafah +uplands, the almost deserted frontier districts, which we are +about to enter, suffer from the Gaum, or razzia, of the +neighbouring ‘Anezah and the Juhaynah;--the two tribes, however, +not mixing. The bandits, numbering, they say, from fifty to +sixty, mounted on horses and dromedaries, only aspire to plunder +some poor devil-shepherd of a few camels, goats, and muttons. +They never attack in rear; they always sleep at night, save when +every moment is precious for "loot"-driving; and their weapons, +which may be deadly in the narrows, are despicable in the open +country. + +I suspected at first that this was another "dodge" to enhance the +services of our Arabs, but the amount of risk we were to run was +soon found out by consulting Furayj. He said that we must march +in rear of the caravan for a day or two; and that such attacks +were possible, but only once in a hundred cases. There might have +been treachery in camp; the Egyptian officers suggested that a +Baliyy scout could have been sent on to announce the approach of +a rich caravan. Accordingly, I ordered an evening review of our +"Remingtons;" and chose a large mark purposely, that the Bedawi +lookers-on might not have cause to scoff. The escort redeemed +many a past lâche, by showing that their weapons had been kept +bright and clean, and by firing neatly enough. The Baliyy, who +had never seen a breech-loader, were delighted; but one of our +party so disliked the smell of powder, that he almost quarrelled +with me for bringing him into such imminent deadly risk. He was +hardly to be blamed; his nerves had been terribly shaken by a +viper killed in his tent. + +Next morning (April 6th) saw the most unpleasant of our marches. +The young Shaykh Sulaymán, accompanied by his cousin Sálim, set +out in the dark as éclaireurs: they were supposed to lead eight +or ten of the best matchlock-men, whereas I doubt whether the +whole camp contained that total. Presently it appeared that they +were alone, and the farce was hardly kept up through the next +day. At 5.15 a.m. we followed them, marching militairement, as my +friend Sefer Pasha had strongly advised at Cairo. It is no joke +to follow starveling beasts whose best speed seldom attains two +miles and a half per hour. However, the effect was excellent: +never had there been so little straggling; never had the +halting-places been reached in such good time and good order. + +A pleasant surprise awaited us in the grandest display of quartz +that we had yet seen. The descent of the Wady el-Kurr seemed to +be as flat, stale, and profitless as possible, when "Mará" +appeared on the left side in mounds, veins, and strews. Presently +we turned south, and passed the brackish well, El-Hufayrah ("the +Little Pit"), in a bay of the left bank, distant about eight +miles from our last camp. Here the whole Wady, some two miles +broad, was barred with quartz, in gravel of the same rock, and in +veins which, protruding from the dark schist, suggested that it +underlies the whole surface. Nothing more remarkable than the +variety of forms and tints mingling in the mighty mass--the +amorphous, the crystallized, the hyaline, the burnt; here mottled +and banded, there plain red and pink, green and brown, slaty and +chocolate, purple, kaolin-white; and, rarest of all, +honeycomb-yellow. The richest part was at the Majrá el-Kabsh +("Divide of the Ram"), where we alighted and secured specimens. + +From this point the Wady el-Kurr flows down the right side of its +valley, and disappears to the west; while the far side of the +Majrá shows the Wady Gámirah (Kámirah), another influent of the +Wady el-Miyáh. Various minor divides led to the Wady el-Laylah, +where ruins were spoken of by our confidant, ‘Audah, although his +information was discredited by the Shaykhs. Quartz-hills now +appeared on either side, creamy-coated cones, each capped by its +own sparkle whose brilliancy was set off by the gloomy traps +which they sheeted and topped. In some places the material may +have been the usual hard, white, heat-altered clay; but the +valley-sole showed only the purest "Marú." The height of several +hills was nearly double that of the northern Jebel el-Abyaz; and +the reef-crests were apparently unworked. + +After the march had extended to seven hours (= 18 miles), there +were loud complaints about its length, the venerable ‘Afnán +himself begging us to spare his camels--which, being interpreted, +meant spoiling our pockets. I therefore gave orders to camp in +the broad and open Wady Laylah. We were far from water, but the +evening was pleasant, and the night was still more agreeable. + +At five a.m. next day (April 7th) we rode up the Wady Laylah, +which gave us another surprise, and an unexpected joy, in the +shifting scenery of the Jibál el-Safhah. The "Mountains of the +Plain," so called because they start suddenly from a dead level, +are a section of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah range; yet they are +worthy links of a chain which boasts of a Shárr. Rising hard on +our left, beyond the dull traps that hem in the Wadys, these +blocks, especially the lower features, the mere foot-hills, +assume every quaintest nuance of hue and form. The fawn-grey +colour, here shining as if polished by "slickensides," there dull +and roughened by the rude touch of Time, is a neutral ground that +takes all the tints with which sun and moon, mist and cloud, +paint and glaze the world: changeable as the chameleon's, the +coating is never the same for two brief hours. The protean shape, +seen in profile and foreshortened from the north or south, +appears a block bristling with "Pins" and points, horns and +beaks. Viewed from the east the range splits into a double line, +whose ranks have never been "dressed" nor sized; whilst a +diagonal prospect so alters their forms and relations that they +apparently belong to another range. + +The background, lying upon the most distant visible plane, is the +white-streaked and regular wall of the Jebel el-Ward, which we +have already seen from the sea. Its northern foot-ranges are the +pale-white and jagged ‘Afayr, whose utter isolation makes it +interesting; and the low and long, the dark and dumpy Jebel +Tufayyah. It is separated by a broad valley from its southern +neighbour, the Jebel el-Ughlub, or El-Ghalab as some call it. +This typical block consists chiefly of a monstrous "Parrot's +Beak" of granite, continued by a long dorsum to the south. Its +outliers number four. These are, first, the Umm Natash, two sets +of perpendicular buttresses pressed together like sausages or +cigars. Then comes the Talát Muhajjah, a broken saddleback, whose +cantle from the south-east appears split into a pair of +steeple-like boulders--an architect of Alexander the Great's day +would have easily cut and trimmed them into such towers as the +world has never seen. Follows the Umm el-Natákah, bristling like +the fretful porcupine, and apparently disdaining to receive the +foot of man; while the last item, the Jebel el-Khausilah, has +outlines so thoroughly architectural that we seem to gaze upon a +pile of building. + +About five miles behind or south of El-Khausilah runs the Wady +Hamz. Thus the two blocks, El-Ward and El-Ughlub, form the Safhah +proper. The line is continued, after a considerable break, by the +two blue and conical peaks in the Tihámat-Jahaníyyah, known as +the Jebelayn el-Rál. They are divided and drained to the Wady +Hamz by the broad Wady el-Sula'; and the latter is the short cut +down which the Egyptian Hajj, returning northwards from +El-Medínah, debouches upon the maritime plain of South Midian. + +The Wady Laylah, draining both the Shafah and the Tihámah ranges, +including the block El-Ward, assumes, as usual, various names: we +shall follow it till it is received into the mighty arms of the +Wady Hamz, some three miles from the sea. After riding eight +hours, we sighted the long line of Daum-palms which announce the +approach to El-Birkah, "the Tank." Here the huge Fiumara, +sweeping grandly from north-east to south-west, forms a charming +narrow and a river-like run about a mile and a half +long--phenomenal again in sun-scorched Arabia. The water, +collecting under the masses of trap which wall in the left bank, +flows down for some distance in threads, à ciel ouvert, and +finally combines in a single large blue-green pool on the right +side. A turquoise set in enamel of the brightest verdure, it +attracts by its dense and shady beds of rushes a variety of +water-fowl--one of our Bedawin killed a black-headed duck with a +bullet, which spoilt it as a specimen. About the water-run are +dwarf enclosures, and even water-melons were sown; unhappily the +torrent came down and carried all away. + +We halted near the upper spring at 8.20 a.m., after the usual +accident which now occurred daily about that hour. On this +occasion Lieutenant Yusuf's shoe stuck in the stirrup when he was +dismounting from an unsteady mule; the animal threw him, and he +had a somewhat narrow escape from being dragged to death. Man and +beast would have lingered long over the pleasures of watering and +refection, but I forced them onwards at nine a.m., whilst the hot +sun-rays were still tempered by the cool land-breeze. The threads +of water and the wet ground extended some two kilometres beyond +the Birkat. Further on was another fine "gate," whose eastern or +right jamb was the Jibál el-Tibgh, fronting the Wady M'jirmah. +The narrows showed two Arab wells, with the usual platform of dry +trunks that make a footing round the mouth. There was no break in +the continuity of the quartz: the black trap enclosed, here +sheets, there veins, and there almonds in puddings. + +At the halting-place a "cerastes" (Echis carinata, Merr.), so +called from the warty hollows over the eyes (?), was brought to +me in a water-bag; the bearer transferred it to the spirit-bottle +by neatly thrusting a packing-needle through the head. The pretty +specimen of an amiable, and much oppressed, race did not show an +atom of vice. I cannot conceive what has caused the absurd +prejudice against snakes, even the most harmless. Perhaps we must +trace it to the curious resemblance of the profile, with the +flattened forehead, the steely bright eye, the formidable biting +apparatus, and the vanishing chin, to the genus woman, species +Lorette. It is hard to imagine that this little beast, which some +one called a "Cleopatra's hasp," could be fatal: its small bag +can hardly contain a couple of drops. Yet the vox populi is +distinctly against me. + +The Shaykhs were anxious to push on for another half-hour, where, +they declared, a rain-hole is found in the next ravine, the Sha'b +el-Kahafah. But we had been privily told of another further down +the valley, at the Sha'b el-Hárr; and, although we much wanted a +bottleful for photography, we determined to run the risk. The +result is curious, showing how jealously water-secrets are kept +in these lands. The next thing I heard was that the water had +waxed salt; then it had dried up; and, lastly, it was in the best +condition, the truth being that there was none at all. +Consequently we were compelled to send back four camels and two +cameleers from our next camping-ground to the Kahafah. Venerable +‘Afnán made many a difficulty, and an uncommon favour, of risking +the plundering of the dromedaries and the lives of his caterans +by a razzia. The fellows set off after nightfall towards the +upper ravine, distant some two hours' slow march: they must there +have had a pleasant, refreshing sleep; and they did not return, +doubtless by order, till late next morning. This gave the Shaykhs +a good opportunity of fearing greatly for the safety of their +people, and of delaying our march as much as possible. + +Resuming the road at 2.30 p.m., we entered the western +prolongation of the Wady el-Birkah. Here it becomes the Wady +Abá'l-‘Agág (‘Ajáj), and preserves that name till it anastomoses +with the Hamz. There have been some wells in the bed; but all are +now filled up, and water must be carried from El-Birkah. We +camped at a noble reach, garnished with a mimic forest of old +tamarisks, whose small voices, united in chorus, passably +imitated the mighty murmur of the sea. Our day's march had +covered a score of miles; hard work, considering the condition of +the mules. + +After a splendid night, we set out London-wards at five a.m., +April 8th, delayed, as has been said, by the politiké of the +Shaykhs. Moreover, one of the party, whose motto should have been +halt's maul, had remarked that the camels appeared fewer than +before--another reason for stopping to count them. Half an hour +placed us at a lower and a grander carrefour, abounding in fuel +and seducing with tamarisk-shade: its water is known as the Máyat +el-Badí'ah. Presently the hilly encasement of the Wady el-‘Ajáj +ended with El-‘Adrá, a red butte to the left, and the Jebel +el-Yakhmúm on the right. This knob was copiously veined with +quartz, of which a prodigious depôt, explored on the next day, +exists in the heights behind it. The Wady now flares out; we have +done with the Tihámah Mountains, and we are again in maritime +South Midian. + +Although we were standing some four hundred feet above the +wassersspiegel, there was no view of the sea, and we had to cross +a wave of ground before we pulled off our hats to Father Neptune, +as he lay smiling in front of us. There was nothing monotonous in +the scene. The mirage raised high in air the yellow mound of Ras +Kurkumah ("Turmeric Head"), which bounded the water-line to the +south. Nearer, but still far to the left, ran the high right bank +of the Wady Hamz, sweeping with a great curve from north-east to +west, till it stood athwart our path. Knobby hills were scattered +over the plain; and on our right rose El-Juwayy, a black mound +with white-sided and scarred head, whose peculiar shape, a crest +upon a slope, showed us once more the familiar Secondary +formation of North-Western Arabia. Thus the gypsum has been +traced from the Sinaitic shore as far south as the Wady Hamz. + +We rode sharply forwards, impatient to see the classical ruins, +leaving the caravan to follow us. The Girdi ("sand-rat") had +ceased to burrow the banks; but the jerboa had made regular +rabbit-warrens. At half-past seven we crossed a winding and +broad-spreading track, the upper Hajj-road, by which the Egyptian +Mahmal passes when returning from El-Medi'nah viâ the Wady Hamz. +A few yards further on showed us a similar line, the route taken +by the caravan when going to Meccah viâ Yambú', now distant five +marches. The two meet at the Wady Wafdíyyah, to the north-east of +the Abá'l-Marú range, which we shall visit to-morrow. + +Shortly after 10 a.m. we crossed the deepest vein of the Wady +Hamz, urged the mules up the *stiff* left bank, and sprang from +the saddle to enjoy a first view of the Gasr (Kasr) Gurayyim +Sa'id. + + + + + + Chapter XIX. + The Wady Hamz--the Classical Ruin--Abá'l-Marú, the Mine of + "Marwah"--Return to El-Wijh--Résumé of the Southern Journey. + + + +Before describing the Palace of Sa'íd the Brave, I must devote a +few lines to a notice of the Wady Hamz. The Wady Hamz, which has +been mentioned as the southern frontier of Egyptian Midian, and +the northern limit of the Ottoman Hejaz, is the most notable +feature of its kind upon the North-Western Arabian shore. Yet +Wallin has unjustifiably described and inscribed it "Wady Nejd," +confusing it with a northern basin, whose mouth, the Salbah +(Thalbah), we passed before reaching Sharm Dumayghah. He appears +to identify it with the classical Wady el-Kura. Sprenger clean +ignores the name, although he mentions its branches; and of +course it is utterly neglected by the Hydrographic Chart. This +main approach to the Arabian interior is not a fissure, like the +vulgar Wadys, but rather an opening where the Gháts, or maritime +chain, break to the north and south. Distant one long or two +short marches from El-Wijh, its mouth is in north lat. 25° 55'; +and it is said to head fifteen days inland, in fact beyond +El-Medínah, towards which it curves with a south-easterly bend. +It receives a multitude of important secondary valleys; amongst +which is the Wady el-‘Uwaynid, universally so pronounced. I +cannot help thinking that this is El-‘Aúníd of El-Mukaddasi, +which El-Idrísí (erroneously?) throws into the sea opposite +Nu'ma'n Island. If my conjecture prove true, we thus have a +reason why this important line has been inexplicably neglected. +Another branch is the Wady el-‘Is, Sprenger's "Al-‘Ys" (pp. 28, +29), which he calls "a valley in the Juhaynah country," and makes +the northern boundary of that tribe. + +Ethnologically considered, the lower Wady Hamz is now the +southern boundary of the Balawíyyah (Baliyy country), and the +northern limit of the Jahaníyyah, or Juhaynah-land: the latter is +popularly described as stretching down coast to Wady Burmah, one +march beyond Yambú' (?). Higher up it belongs to the +Alaydán-‘Anezahs, under Shaykh Mutlak--these were the Bedawin +who, during our stay at the port, brought their caravan to +El-Wijh. Both tribes are unsafe, and they will wax worse as they +go south. Yet there is no difficulty in travelling up the Hamz, +at least for those who can afford time and money to engage the +escort of Shaykh Mutlak. A delay of twelve days to a fortnight +would be necessary, and common prudence would suggest the normal +precaution of detaining, as hostage in the seaboard settlement, +one of his Alaydán cousins. Water is to be found the whole way, +and the usual provisions are to be bought at certain places. + +The following notes upon the ruins of the Wady Hamz were supplied +to me by the Baliyy Bedawin and the citizens of El-Wijh. Six +stages up the lower valley, whose direction lies nearly +north-east, lead to El-‘Ilá, Wallin's "Ela," which belongs to the +‘Anezah. Thence a short day, to the north with easting, places +the traveller at Madáin (not Madyan nor Medínat) Sálih--"the +cities of Sálih." The site is described to be somewhat off the +main valley, which is here broken by a Nakb (?); and those who +have visited both declared that it exactly resembles Nabathæan +Magháir Shu'ayb in extensive ruins and in catacombs caverning the +hill-sides. + +Also called El-Hijr, it is made by Sprenger (p. 20) the capital +of Thamuditis. This province was the head-quarters of the giant +race termed the "Sons of Anak" (Joshua xi. 21); the Thamudeni and +Thamudæ of Agatharkides and Diodorus; the Tamudæi of Pliny; the +Thamyditæ of Ptolemy; and the Arabian Tamúd (Thamúd), who, +extinct before the origin of El-Islam, occupied the seaboard +between El-Muwaylah and El-Wijh. Their great centre was the plain +El-Badá; and they were destroyed by a terrible sound from heaven, +the Beth-Kol of the Hebrews, after sinfully slaughtering the +miraculously produced camel of El-Sálih, the Righteous Prophet +(Koran, cap. vii.). The exploration of "Sálih's cities" will be +valuable if it lead to the collection of inscriptions +sufficiently numerous to determine whether the Tamúd were +Edomites, or kin to the Edomites; also which of the two races is +the more ancient, the Horites of Idumæa or the Horites in +El-Hijr. + +And now to inspect the Gasr. The first sensation was one of +surprise, of the mental state which gave rise to the Italian's-- + + "Dear Columns, what do you here? + ‘Not knowing, can't say, Mynheer!'" + +And this incongruous bit of Greece or Rome, in the Arabian wild, +kept its mystery to the last: the more we looked at it, the less +we could explain its presence. Not a line of inscription, not +even a mason's mark--all dark as the grave; deaf-dumb as "the +olden gods." + +The site of the Gasr is in north lat. 25° 55' 15";[EN#70] and the +centre of the Libn block bears from it 339° (mag.). It stands +upon the very edge of its Wady's left bank, a clifflet some +twenty-five feet high, sloping inland with the usual dark metal +disposed upon loose yellow sand. Thus it commands a glorious view +of the tree-grown valley, or rather valleys, beneath it; and of +the picturesque peaks of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah in the +background. The distance from the sea is now a little over three +miles--in ancient days it may have been much less. + +The condition of the digging proves that the remains have not +long been opened: the Baliyy state less than half a century ago; +but exactly when or by whom is apparently unknown to them. Before +that time the locale must have shown a mere tumulus, a mound +somewhat larger than the many which pimple the raised valley-bank +behind the building. A wall is said to have projected above +ground, as at Uriconium near the Wrekin.[EN#71] This may have +suggested excavation, besides supplying material for the Bedawi +cemetery to the south-west. The torrent waters have swept away +the whole of the northern wall, and the treasure-seeker has left +his mark upon the interior. Columns and pilasters and bevelled +stones have been hurled into the Wady below; the large +pavement-slabs have been torn up and tossed about to a chaos; and +the restless drifting of the loose yellow Desert-sand will soon +bury it again in oblivion. The result of all such ruthless +ruining was simply null. The imaginative Nájí declared, it is +true, that a stone dog had been found; but this animal went the +way of the "iron fish," which all at El-Muwaylah asserted to have +been dug up at El-Wijh--the latter place never having heard of +it. Wallin (p. 316) was also told of a black dog which haunts the +ruins of Karáyyá, and acts guardian to its hidden treasures. +Years ago, when I visited the mouth of the Volta river on the +Gold Coast, the negroes of Cape Coast Castle were pleased to +report that I had unearthed a silver dog, at whose appearance my +companion, Colonel de Ruvignes, and myself fell dead. But why +always a dog? The "Palace" is a Roman building of pure style; +whether temple or nymphæum, we had no means of ascertaining. The +material is the Rughám or alabaster supplied by the Secondary +formation; and this, as we saw, readily crumbles to a white +powder when burnt. The people, who in such matters may be +trusted, declare that the quarries are still open at Abú +Makhárír, under the hills embosoming Abá'l-Marú. We should have +been less surprised had the ruin been built of marble, which +might have been transported from Egypt; but this careful and +classical treatment of the common country stone, only added to +the marvel. + +It must have been a bright and brilliant bit of colouring in its +best days--hence, possibly, the local tradition that the stone +sweats oil. The whole building, from the pavement to the coping, +notched to receive the roof-joists, is of alabaster, plain-white +and streaked with ruddy, mauve, and dark bands, whose mottling +gives the effect of marble. Perhaps in places the gypsum has been +subjected to plutonic action; and we thought that the coloured +was preferred to the clear for the bases of the columns. The +exposed foundations of the eastern and western walls, where the +torrent has washed away the northern enceinte, show that, after +the fashion of ancient Egypt, sandstone slabs have been laid +underground, the calcaire being reserved for the hypaethral part. +The admirable hydraulic cement is here and there made to take the +place of broken corners, and flaws have been remedied by +carefully letting in small cubes of sound stone. There are also +cramp-holes for metal which, of course, has been carried off by +the Bedawin: the rusty stains suggest iron. + +The building is square-shaped, as we see from the western wall, +and it evidently faced eastward with 25° (mag.) of southing. This +orientation, probably borrowed from the Jews, was not thoroughly +adopted in Christendom till the early fifth century, when it +became a mos. The southern wall, whose basement is perfect, shows +everywhere a thickness of 0.95 centimetre, and a total length of +8 metres 30 centimetres. At 2 metres 87 centimetres from the +south-western corner is a slightly raised surface, measuring in +length 2 metres 15 centimetres. Mr. James Fergusson supposes that +this projection, which directly fronts the eastern entrance, was +the base of the niche intended for the image. On each side of the +latter might have been a smaller colonette, which would account +for the capital carried off by us to Egypt. Thus, adding 2 metres +87 centimetres for the northern end swept into the valley, we +have a length of 7 metres 89 centimetres; and the additional half +thickness of the east wall would bring it to a total of 8 metres +30 centimetres. + +The shrine was not in antis, and the site hardly admits of a +peristyle; besides which, excavations failed to find it. That it +might have had a small external atrium is made probable by the +peculiarity of the entrance. Two rounded pilasters, worked with +the usual care inside, but left rough in other parts because they +could not be seen, were engaged in the enceinte wall, measuring +here, as elsewhere, 0.95 centimetre in thickness. Nothing +remained of them but their bases, whose lower diameters were 0.95 +centimetre, and the upper 0.65; the drums found elsewhere also +measured 0.65. The interval between the lowest rings was 1 metre +63 centimetres; and this would give the measure of the doorway, +here probably a parallelogram. Lying on the sand-slope to the +north, a single capital showed signs of double brackets, although +both have been broken off:[EN#72] the maximum diameter across the +top was 0.60 centimetre, diminishing below to 0.50 and 0.44, +whilst the height was 0.40. The encircling wall was probably +adorned with pilasters measuring 0.62 centimetre below, 0.45 +above, and 0.11 in height: they are not shown in the plan; and I +leave experts to determine whether they supported the inside or +the outside surface. Several stones, probably copings, are cut +with three mortice-joints or joist-holes, each measuring 0.15 +centimetre, at intervals of 0.14 to 0.15. + +In the tossed and tumbled interior of this maison carrée the +pavement-slabs, especially along the south-western side, appear +in tolerable order and not much disturbed; whilst further east a +long trench from north to south had been sunk by the treasure +seeker. The breadth of the free passage is 1 metre 92 +centimetres; and the disposal suggested an inner peristyle, +forming an impluvium. Thus the cube could not have been a heroön +or tomb. Four bases of columns, with a number of drums, lie in +the heap of ruins, and in the torrent-bed six, of which we +carried off four. They are much smaller than the pilasters of the +entrance; the lower tori of the bases measure 0.60 centimetre in +diameter, and 0.20 in height (to 0.90 and 0.25), while the drums +are 0.45, instead of 0.65. It is an enormous apparatus to support +what must have been a very light matter of a roof. The only +specimen of a colonette-capital has an upper diameter of 0.26, a +lower of 0.17, and a height of 0.16. + +Although the Meccan Ka'bah is, as its name denotes, a "cube," +this square alabaster box did not give the impression of being +either Arab or Nabathæan. The work is far too curiously and +conscientiously done; the bases and drums, as the sundries +carried to Cairo prove, look rather as if turned by machinery +than chiselled in the usual way. I could not but conjecture that +it belongs to the days of such Roman invasions as that of Ælius +Gallus. Strabo[EN#73] tells us of his unfortunate friend and +companion, that, on the return march, after destroying +Negrán[EN#74] (Pliny, vi. 32), he arrived at Egra or Hegra +(El-‘Wijh), where he must have delayed some time before he could +embark "as much of his army as could be saved," for the opposite +African harbour, Myus Hormus. It is within the limits of +probability that this historical personage[EN#75] might have +built the Gasr, either for a shrine or for a nymphæum, a +votive-offering to the Great Wady, which must have cheered his +heart after so many days of "Desert country, with only a few +watering-places." Perhaps an investigation of the ruins at Ras +Kurkumah and the remains of Madáin Sálih may throw some light +upon the mystery. In our travel this bit of classical temple was +unique. + +Mr. Fergusson, whose authority in such matters will not readily +be disputed, calls the building a small shrine; and determines +that it can hardly be a tomb, as it is hypæthral. The only +similar temple known to him is that of "Soueideh" (Suwaydah), in +the Haurán (De Vogüé, "Syrie Centrale," Plate IV.). The latter, +which is Roman, and belonging to the days of Herod Augustus, has +a peristyle here wanting: in other respects the resemblance is +striking. + +M. Lacaze photographed, under difficulties such as bad water and +a most unpleasant drift of sand-dust, the interior of the +building, the stones lying in the Wady below, and the various +specimens which we carried off for the inspection of his Highness +the Viceroy. Meanwhile we "pottered about," making small +discoveries. The exposed foundations of the north-western wall, +where the slabs of grit rest upon the sands of the cliff, +afforded signs of man in the shape of a jaw-bone, with teeth +apparently modern; and above it, in the terreplein, we dug down +upwards of a yard, without any result beyond unearthing a fine +black scorpion. The adjoining Arab graveyard, adorned with the +mutilated spoils of the classical building, gave two imperfect +skulls and four fragments. We opened one of the many mounds that +lie behind the Gasr, showing where most probably stood the ruined +town; and we found the interior traversed by a crumbling wall of +cut alabaster--regular excavation may some day yield important +results. A little to the south-west lies a kind of ossuary, a +tumulus slightly raised above the wavy level, and showing a +central pit choked with camels' bones: at least, we could find no +other. + +And here I was told the Arab legend by the Wakíl; who, openly +deriding the Bedawi idea that the building could be a "Castle," +opined that it was a Kanísah, a "Christian or pagan place of +worship." Gurayyim Sa'íd, "Sa'íd the Brave," was an African +slave, belonging to an Arab Shaykh whose name is forgotten. One +day it so happened that a razzia came to plunder his lord, when +the black, whose strength and stature were equal to his courage +and, let us add, his appetite, did more than his duty. Thus he +obtained as a reward the promise of a bride, his master's +daughter. But when the day of danger was past, and the slave +applied for the fair guerdon, the Shaykh traitorously refused to +keep his word. The Brave, finding a fit opportunity, naturally +enough carried off the girl to the mountains; solemnly thrashed +every pursuing party; and, having established a "reign of +terror," came to the banks of the Wady Hamz, and built the +"Palace" for himself and his wife. But his love for +butcher's-meat did not allow him to live happily ever after. As +the land yielded little game, he took to sallying out every day +and carrying off a camel, which in the evening he slew, and +roasted, and ate, giving a small bit of it to his spouse. This +extravagance of flesh-diet ended by scandalizing the whole +country-side, till at last the owner of the plundered herds, +Diyáb ibn Ghánim, one of the notables celebrated in the romance +called Sírat Abu' Zayd,[EN#76] assembled his merry men, attacked +the Gurayyim, and slew him. Wa' s' salám! + +Here Egypt ends. We have done our work-- + + "And now the hills stretch home." + +I must, however, beg the reader to tarry with me awhile. The next +march to the north will show him what I verily believe to be the +old gold-mine lying around El-Marwah. It acquires an especial +interest from being the northernmost known to the mediaeval +geographers. + +El-Mukaddasi (vol. I. p. 101), in an article kindly copied by my +friend, the Aulic Councillor, Alfred Von Kremer, says, "Between +Yambú' and El-Marwah are mines of gold;" adding ("Itinerary," +vol. i. p. 107) the following route directions: "And thou takest +from El-Badr (‘the New Moon')[EN#77] to El-Yambú' two stages; +thence to the Ras el-‘Ayn (?),[EN#78] one stage; again to the +mine (subaudi, of gold), one stage; and, lastly, to El-Marwah, +two stages. And thou takest from El-Badr to El-Jár[EN#79] one +stage; thence to El-Jahfah (?), or to El-Yambu', two stages each. +And thou takest from El-Jiddah (Jedda) to El-Jár, or to +El-Surrayn (?), four stages each. And thou takest from El-Yasrib +(Jatrippa or El-Medínah) to El-Suwaydíyyah (?), or to Batn +el-Nakhil (?), two stages each; and from El-Suwaydíyyah to +El-Marwah, an equal distance (i.e. four marches); and from the +Batn el-Nakhil to the mine of silver, a similar distance. And if +thou seek the Jáddat Misr,[EN#80] then take from El-Marwah to +El-Sukyá[EN#81] (?), and thence to Badá Ya'kúb,[EN#82] three +marches; and thence to El-‘Aúníd, one march." Hence Sprenger +would place Zú'l-Marwah "four days from El-Hijr, on the western +road to Medina;" alluding to the western (Syrian) road, now +abandoned. + +And now for our march. On the finest possible morning (April +9th), when the world was all ablaze with living light, I walked +down the Wady Hamz. It has been abundantly supplied with water; +in fact, the whole vein (thalweg) subtending the left bank would +respond to tapping. The well El-Kusayr, just below the ruin, +though at present closed, yielded till lately a large quantity: +about half a mile to the westward is, or rather was, a saltish +pit surrounded by four sweet. Almost all are now dry and filled +up with fuel. A sharp trudge of three-quarters of an hour leads +to the Bir el-Gurnah (Kurnah), the "Well of the Broad," in a +district of the same name, lying between the ruin and the shore. +It is a great gash in the sandy bed: the taste of the turbid +produce is distinctly sulphurous; and my old white mule, being +dainty in her drink, steadfastly refused to touch it. The +distinct accents of the Red Sea told us that we were not more +than a mile from its marge. + +We then struck north-east, over the salt maritime plain, till we +hit the lower course of the Wady Umm Gilifayn (Jilifayn). It +heads from the seaward base of the neighbouring hills; and its +mouth forms a Marsá, or "anchorage-place," for native craft. A +little to the north stands the small pyramidal Tuwayyil +el-Kibrít, the "little Sulphur Hill," which had been carefully +examined by MM. Marie and Philipin. A slow ride of eight miles +placed us in a safe gorge draining a dull-looking, unpromising +block. Here we at once found, and found in situ for the first +time, the chalcedony which strews the seaboard-flat. This agate, +of which amulets and signet-rings were and are still made, and +which takes many varieties of tints, lies in veins mostly +striking east-west; and varying in thickness from an inch to +several feet. The sequence is grey granite below, the band of +chalcedony, and above it a curious schistose gneiss-formation. +The latter, composing the greater part of these hills, is striped +dark-brown and yellow; and in places it looks exactly like rotten +wood. The small specimens of chalcedony in my private collection +were examined at Trieste, and one of them contained dendritic +gold, visible to the naked eye. Unfortunately the engineer had +neglected this most important rock, and only a few ounces of it, +instead of as many tons, were brought back for analysis. + +A short and easy ascent led to a little counter-slope, the Majrá +Mujayrah (Mukayrah), whose whitening sides spoke of quartz. We +rode down towards a granite island where the bed mouths into the +broad Wady Mismáh, a feeder of the Wady ‘Argah. Here, after some +ten miles, the guide, Na'ji', who thus far had been very misty in +the matter of direction, suddenly halted and, in his showman +style, pointed to the left bank of the watercourse, exclaiming, +"Behold Abá'l-Marú!" (the "Father of Quartz"). It was another +surprise, and our last, this snowy reef with jagged crest, at +least 500 metres long, forming the finest display of an exposed +filon we had as yet seen; but--the first glance told us that it +had been worked. + +We gave the rest of the day to studying and blasting the +quartz-wall. It proved to be the normal vein in grey granite, +running south-north and gradually falling towards the +valley-plain. Here a small white outlier disappears below the +surface, rising again in filets upon the further side. The dip is +easterly: in this direction a huge strew of ore-mass and rubbish +covers the slope which serves as base to the perpendicular reef. +The Negro quartz, which must have formed half the thickness, had +been carried bodily away. If anything be left for the moderns it +is hidden underground: the stone, blasted in the little outlier, +looked barren. Not the least curious part of this outcrop is the +black thread of iron silicate which, broken in places, subtends +it to the east: some specimens have geodes yielding brown powder, +and venal cavities lined with botryoidal quartz of amethystine +tinge. In other parts of the same hills we found, running along +the "Mará," single and double lines of this material, which +looked uncommonly like slag. + +The open Wady Mismáh showed, to the east of our camp, the ruins +of a large settlement which has extended right across the bed: as +the guides seemed to ignore its existence, we named it the +Kharábat Abá'l-Marú. Some of the buildings had been on a large +scale, and one square measured twenty yards. Here the peculiarity +was the careful mining of a granitic hillock on the southern +bank. The whole vein of Negro quartz had been cut out of three +sides, leaving caves that simulated catacombs. Further west +another excavation in the same kind of rock was probably the +town-quarry. The two lieutenants were directed next morning to +survey this place, and also a second ruin and reef reported to be +found on the left bank, a little below camp. + +We have now seen, lying within short distances, three several +quartz-fields, known as--Marwah, "the single Place or Hill of +Maú'" (quartz); Marwát, "the Places of Quartz;" and Abá'l-Marú, +the "Father of Quartz;" not to speak of a Nakb Abú Marwah[EN#83] +further north. The conclusion forced itself upon me that the name +of the celebrated Arab mine Zú'l Marwah or El-Marwah, the more +ancient <Greek> (Mochura), which Ptolemy places in north +lat. 24° 30', applied to the whole district in South Midian, and +then came to denote the chief place and centre of work. To judge +by the extent of the ruins, and the signs of labour, this focus +was at Umm el-Karáyát (the "Mother of the Villages"), which, as +has been shown, is surrounded by a multitude of miner-towns and +ateliers. And the produce of the "diggings" would naturally +gravitate to El-Badá, the great commercial station upon the +Nabathæan "Overland." + +Thus El-Marwah would signify "the Place of Marú," or +"Quartz-land," even as Ophir means "Red Land." A reviewer of my +first book on Midian objects to the latter derivation; as +Seetzen, among others, has conclusively shown that Ophir, the +true translation of which is ‘riches,' is to be looked for in +Southern Arabia." Connu! But I question the "true translation;" +and, whilst owning that one of the Ophirs or "Red Lands" lay in +the modern Yemen, somewhere between Sheba (Sabá) and Havilah +(Khaulán), I see no reason for concluding that this was the only +Ophir. Had it been a single large emporium on the Red Sea, which +collected the produce of Arabia and the exports of India and of +West Africa, the traditional site could hardly have escaped the +notice of the inquiring Arabian geographers of our Middle Ages. +The ruins of a port would have been found, and we should not be +compelled theoretically to postulate its existence. + + * * * * * * + +And now nothing remained but to escape as quickly as possible +from the ugly Wady Mismáh; with its violent, dusty wester, or +sea-breeze, and its sun-glare which, reflected and reverberated +by the quartz, burned the grass and made the trees resemble +standing timber. + +April 10th saw the last of our marches, a hurry back to the +stable, a sauve qui peut. The camel-men, reckless of orders, +began to load and to slip away shortly after midnight. Ali Marie, +who, as usual, had lost his head, when ordered to enjoin silence +gave the vain and vague direction, "Tell the Arabs to tell the +camels not to make so much noise." Even the bugler sounded the +"general" of his own accord; and the mules, now become painfully +intelligent, walked as if they knew themselves to be walking +homewards. Our last stage lay over the upper skirts of the +maritime plain which has already been noticed. At 10.15 am., +after riding five hours and thirty minutes (= seventeen miles), +we found ourselves once more upon the seaboard. Our kind host, +Captain Hasan Bey, came to meet us in his gig: the quarter-deck +had been dressed with flags, as for a ball; and before twelve +bells struck, we had applied ourselves to an excellent breakfast +in the gun-room of our old favourite, the Sinnár. The auspicious +day of course ended with a fantasia. + + + + + + Résumé of Our Last Journey. + + + +We had left the Sharm Yáhárr on March 21st, and returned to it on +April 13th; a total of twenty-four days. Our actual march through +South Midian, which had lasted thirteen days (March 29--April +10), described a semicircle with El-Wijh about the middle of the +chord. The length is represented by 170 miles in round numbers: +as usual, this does not include the various offsets and the +by-paths explored by the members; nor do the voyages to El-Wijh +and El-Haurá, going and coming, figure in the line of route. The +camels varied from fifty-eight to sixty-four, when specimens were +forwarded to the harbour-town. The expenditure amounted to£92 +13s., including pay and "bakhshísh" to the Baliyy Shaykhs, but +not including our friends the Sayyid, Furayj, and the Wakíl +Mohammed Shahádah. + +This southern region differs essentially from the northern, which +was twice visited, and which occupied us two months, mostly +wasted. Had we known what we do now, I should have begun with the +south, and should have devoted to it the greater part of our +time. Both are essentially mining countries; but, whilst the +section near Egypt preserves few traces of the miner, here we +find the country carefully and conscientiously worked. The whole +eastern counterslope of the outliers that project from the +Ghát-section known as the mountains of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah, is +one vast outcrop of quartz. The parallelogram between north lat. +26 degrees, including the mouth of the Wady Hamz, and north lat. +27°, which runs some fifteen miles north of the Badá plain, would +form a Southern Grant, sufficiently large to be divided and +subdivided as soon as judged advisable. + +If the characteristics of North Midian (Madyan Proper) are its +argentiferous, and especially its cupriferous ores, South Midian +worked chiefly gold and silver, both metals being mentioned by +the mediaeval geographers of Arabia. Free gold in paillettes was +noticed by the Expedition in the micaceous schists veining the +quartz, and in the chalcedony which parts the granite from the +gneiss. The argentiferous Negro quartz everywhere abounds, and +near the ruins of Badá lie strews of spalled "Marú," each +fragment showing its little block of pure lead. Saltpetre is +plentiful, and a third "Sulphur hill" rises from the maritime +plain north of the Wady Hamz. + +The principal ruins and ateliers number five; these, beginning +from the north, are the Umm el-Karáyát, the Umm el-Haráb, the +Bújat-Badá, the Kharábat Abá'l-Marú, and the old Nabathean port, +E1-Haurá. Amongst them is not included the gem of our discovery, +the classical shrine, known as Gasr Gurayyim Sa'íd, nor the minor +ateliers, El-Kubbah, Abá'l-Gezáz, and the remains upon the Marwát +ridge. Good work was done by the Egyptian Staff-officers in +surveying the fine harbour of El-Dumayghah, so well fitted as a +refuge for pilgrim-ships when doing quarantine; and I venture +upon recommending, to the English and Egyptian Governments, my +remarks concerning the advisability of at once re-transferring +the station to El-Wijh. It is now at Tor; and, as has been said, +it forms a standing menace, not only to the Nile Valley, but to +the whole of Europe. + +Whilst abounding in wood, the Southern Country is not so well +watered as are Central and Northern Midian On the other hand, the +tenants, confined to the Baliyy tribe, with a few scatters of the +despised Hutaym, are milder and more tractable than the Huwaytát. +As I have remarked, they are of ancient strain, and they still +conserve the instincts of their predecessors, or their +forefathers, the old mining race. It will be necessary to defend +them against the raids and incursions of the Juhaynah, or "Sons +of Dogs," who border upon them to the south, and from the +Alaydán-‘Anezah to the south-east; but nothing would be easier +than to come to terms with the respective Shaykhs. And the sooner +we explore the Jaww, or sandstone region in the interior, with +its adjacent "Harrahs," the better for geography and, perhaps not +less, for mineralogy. The great ruins of Madáin Sálih upon the +Wady Hamz still, I repeat, await the discoverer. + + + + + + Conclusion. + + + +The next day saw us at El-Wijh, dispensing pay and "bakhshísh" to +the companions of our Desert march; and shipping the men and +mules, with the material collected during the southern journey. +The venerable Shaykh ‘Afnán and his Baliyy were not difficult to +deal with; and they went their way homewards fully satisfied. We +exchanged a friendly adieu, or rather an au revoir, with our +excellent travelling companion, Mohammed Shahádah; and I +expressed my sincere hopes to find him, at no distant time, +governor of the restored Quarantine-station. + +On the morning of April 12th we set out betimes, and anchored for +the night in one of the snug bays of Jebel Nu'man. The next day +placed us at the Sharm Yáhárr, where the process of general +distribution happily ended. Here the final parting took place +with the gallant companions of our four months' travel. Shaykh +Furayj, delighted with the gift, in addition to his pay, of a +Styrian skean-dhu and an Austrian Werndl-carbine, at once set off +to rejoin the tribe up-country; while the Sayyid steadfastly +stayed with us to the last. These men had become our friends; and +my sorrow at leaving them was softened only by the prospect of +presently seeing them again. + +Immediately after my return to Cairo I strongly recommended the +Sayyid for promotion, in these words:--"First and foremost is the +Sayyid ‘Abd el-Rahím, the head of a noble family, settled for +generations at El-Muwayláh, where he is now Kátib (‘accountant') +to the Fort. He knows thoroughly the whole Land of Midian; he is +loved and respected by all the Arabs, and both he and his are +devoted to the Government of your Highness. Evidently it would be +advantageous to promote such a man to the post of governor of the +place--a post which will presently become of high importance, and +which is actually held by an old officer, almost bed-ridden. + +"The second is Shaykh Mohammed Shahádah, of El-Wijh, a man of +family and position; known far and wide, and made generally +popular by his generous and charitable actions. He was formerly +Wakíl, or ‘agent,' to the Fort el-Wijh, until that office was +abolished. The port will presently have its custom-house; and I +propose forwarding to her Britannic Majesty's Government my notes +upon the subject of the Quarantine-station, which has imprudently +been transferred from Arabia to Tor, in the Sinaitic Peninsula. +Meanwhile it would, I venture to suggest, be most advantageous if +Mohammed Shahádah were named governor of his native place." + +The Expedition, in its urgent desire to return northwards, was +not seconded by weather. Despite an ugly gale, the Sinnár boldly +attempted giving the slip to Arabia on April 16th, but she was +beaten back before she reached El-Muwaylah. After another stormy +day, we again got up steam; and, fighting hard against adverse +winds and waves, greatly to the distress of the unfortunate mules +and gazelles, we reached Suez on April 20th. + +At Suez my wife had been awaiting me for long weeks, preferring +the simplicity of the Desert to the complex life of Cairo. Some +delay was again necessary in order to telegraph our arrival, to +apply for a special train, and to sort and pack in the +travelling-cases our twenty-five tons of specimens. As often +happens, the return to civilization was in nowise cheery. +Everything seemed to go wrong. For instance, the Dragoman +despatched to town from the New Docks in order to lay in certain +comforts, such as beef and beer, prudently laid out the coin in a +brand-new travelling suit intended for his own service. Such an +apology for a dinner had not been seen during the last four +months of wild travel--unpleasant when guests have been bidden to +a feast! The night at the Docks, also, was a trifle mortuary, +over-silent and tranquil: all hands, officers and men, who could +not get leave to sleep ashore, simply took leave--I believe +myself to have been for a time both captain and crew of the +Sinnár. And, lastly, we heard that both our dog-companions, Juno +and Páijí, had died of some canine epidemic. + +The next day ended our halt at Suez, with visits to slop-shops +and a general discussion of choppes. The old hotel, under the +charge of Mr. and Mrs. Adams, had greatly improved by the +"elimination" of the offensive Hindi element; and my old friends +of a quarter-century's standing received me with all their wonted +heartiness. Sa'íd Bey was still a Bey, but none the less jovial +and genial; Captain Ali Bey, who had commanded the Sinnár, was +now acting commodore; and my only regret was having again missed +Colonel Gordon (Pasha). + +April 22nd convinced us that, even in these prosaic regions, our +misadventures and accidents had not reached their fated end. A +special train had been organized by Hanafi Effendi for eight a.m. +About ten miles from Suez one of the third-class carriages began +"running hot;" and, before we could dismount, the axle-box of a +truck became a young Vesuvius in the matter of vomiting smoke. I +ordered the driver, who was driving furiously, to make half +speed; but even with this precaution there were sundry stoppages; +and at the Naffíshah station, where my Bolognese acquaintances +still throve, we could not be supplied with a change of +"rolling-stock." About Tell el-Kabír, the brake-van also waxed +unsafely warm; but it reached Zagázig without developing more +caloric. Briefly, we caught fire three times in one morning. + +These accidents must always be expected, where spare carriages +are placed for months upon sidings to become tinder in the sun; +and where the cracks and crevices of the woodwork fill up with +the silicious sand of the Desert, an admirable succedaneum for +flint and steel. One consolation, however, remained to us: the +Dragoman, brand-new clothes and all, was left behind at Suez. His +last chef d'œuvre of blundering has already been +noticed[EN#84]--the barrel of Midianitish oysters sent to Admiral +M'Killop (Pasha) had been so carelessly headed up, and so +carefully turned topsy-turvy, that the result was, to use my +friend's words, they could be nosed from the half-way station. +The "Kyrios" had probably passed a Bacchanalian night with his +Hellenic friends, and he subsequently made act of presence at +Cairo with a very British-looking black eye. His accident at Suez +was a bit of "poetical justice," which almost convinced one of +the "moral government." + +A succulent breakfast à la fourchette, in the charming garden of +our friend M. Vetter, of Zagázig, duly discussed, we again went +"on board," amusing the lookers-on by our naive enjoyment of the +Nile-valley: they had not been in Arabia, and they found the +"emerald-green" dusty and yellow. We reached Cairo at 5.30 p.m. +More troubles! Ten minutes after arrival we found ourselves in +possession, in sole charge of the gare. The train was loaded with +Government property, officers, soldiers and escort, mules, boxes +and bags of specimens whose collecting had cost money. Yet +station-master, agent, and employés at once went their ways, +declining even to show the room allotted to our goods, although a +telegram from the railway authorities had advised me that one had +been made ready. The assistant-agent, when at last hunted up, +declared, before vanishing once more, that the porters for whom +we applied were busy loading cotton, and that we must e'en do the +best we could for ourselves. So the waggons were shunted and +unloaded by their tenants, and the minerals were deposited under +a kind of shed whose key was not forthcoming. We failed to find +even a light, till the local train from Suez was announced; and, +when it began whistling, the officials, who had returned like +rats from their holes, gave us peremptory directions to shunt +again. This time, however, I had the game in my hands; and +replied by taking due precautions against being turned out. + +At first the soldier-escort worked as well as could be expected; +but the numbers fell off every quarter of an hour, till we were +left with a very select party; the only recipients, by-the-by, of +"bakhshísh." The Sub-Lieutenant Mohammed Effendi mounted a donkey +the moment he stepped out of the R.R. carriage; and, utterly +disregarding so vexatious a frivolity as asking leave, rode off +to his home at Torah. His example was followed by the Sergeant +Mabrúk ‘Awaz. And yet both these men had the impudence to call +upon me at the hotel, and to apply for especial Shahádahs, or +"testimonials" of good conduct. In short, we were detained at the +station for three mortal hours, working with our own hands. If +this be a fair specimen of European management in Egypt, and I am +told that it has now become worse, much worse in every way, the +sooner we return to Egyptian mismanagement the better. The latter +is, at any rate, cheap and civil. + +On the next day the Viceroy graciously sent his junior Master of +Ceremonies, his Excellency Tonino Bey, to welcome me back; and I +was at once honoured with audiences at the Khedivial Palace, +‘Abidin, and by Prince Husayn Kámil Pasha at Gizah (Jízah). The +Khediv was pleased to express satisfaction with my past +exertions, and ordered several measures to be carried out at +once. Amongst them was a little exhibition of mineralogy and +archaeology, maps and plans, sketches and croquis, at the +Hippodrome. + +I need hardly say that his Highness at once saw the gist of the +matter. Many concessions had been applied for, even from +Australia; but the Viceroy determined that, before any could be +granted, careful analyses of the specimens must be made, at his +Highness's private expense, in London. M. Ferdinand de Lesseps, +of world-wide fame, volunteered, in the most friendly way, to +submit échantillons of the rocks to the Parisian Académie des +Sciences, of which he is a distinguished member. The Viceroy was +also pleased spontaneously to remind me of, and to renew, the +verbal promise made upon my return from the first Expedition to +Midian; namely, that I should be honoured with a concession, or +that a royalty of five per cent. on the general produce of the +mines should be the reward of discovery. The young Minister of +Finance, Prince Husayn Kámil Pasha, after courteously +congratulating me upon the successful result of our labours, put +as usual the most pertinent of questions. + +The opening of our little Exposition was delayed by sundry +difficulties. The Greek Easter set in with its usual severity +about later April. A general shop-shutting, a carouse unlimited, +catholic, universal; and, despite stringent police orders, a +bombardment of the town by squibs and crackers, were the +principal features of the fête. The 29th was the classical Shamm +el-Nasin, or "the Smelling of the Zephyr," a local May-day +religiously kept with utter idleness. Mr. W. E. Hayns and I +utilized it by going a flint-hunting on the left bank of the +Nile.[EN#85] Then the terrible "May coupon" gave immense trouble +and annoyance to the rulers; who, so far from making merry with +the lieges, had to work in person between five a.m. and midnight. +After such exertion as this, rest was of course necessary. +Subsequently, a grand review monopolized one day; another was +spent by the Court in despatching the young Prince Fu'ád to +Switzerland; and yet another was given to his Highness the Prince +Hasan Pasha, Commander-in-Chief of the Egyptian auxiliaries, who, +on the conclusion of the war, had returned to Cairo en route for +Europe. + + Briefly, it was not before May 9th that the Khediv, accompanied +by the Prince héritier, Taufík Pasha, found leisure personally to +open the Exhibition--the first, by-the-by, ever honoured with the +Viceregal presence. Despite all my efforts, the rooms, which +should have been kept clear till his Highness had passed through, +were crowded at an early hour. The maps prepared at the Citadel +by Lieutenants Amir and Yusuf, with the aid of three extra hands, +were very imperfect, half finished at the last moment, and +abounding in such atrocities as "Ouorh" for "El-Wijh." The +engineer, M. Marie, when asked aloud, and with all publicity, by +the Khediv whether he was sure that such and such specimens +contained gold, shirked a direct reply, evasively declaring that +"Midian is a fine mining country." He had pointed out to me the +precious metal during our exploration of Umm el-Karáyat; but such +is the wretched result of "knowing the people," instead of +telling the truth like a man. And one of the many jealous, a mild +Mephisto., whispered in the Viceregal ear, "There can't be much +gold there, or ces messieurs would have said more about it." + +Despite these small contretemps the Exhibition[EN#86] was +pronounced a success, and served, as such things do, for a nine +days' wonder. Several travellers from England and Australia took +the opportunity of inspecting the rocks; and I was much +encouraged to find the general opinion so highly favourable. +Locally there were dissidents, but this must be expected where +interests differ. + +Meanwhile his Highness kept me hard at work. I was directed to +draw up a concise general description of the province; to report +upon the political and other measures by which the Midian country +would be benefited; and, lastly, to suggest the means which, in +my humble opinion, were best calculated for successfully working +the mines. In former days the Viceroy would at once have +undertaken the task, and probably would have sent down five +thousand men to open the diggings. Now, however, the endless +trickery of European adventurers and speculators has made a wise +precaution absolutely necessary. During the last audience, his +Highness ably and lucidly resumed the history of the past +measures, and the steps which he proposed for the future. The +first Khedivial Expedition had been simply one of exploration, +sent to ascertain whether the precious metals really existed. The +second was intrusted with the charge of laying down the probable +limits of the mining formation; and of bringing back varied +specimens, in quantities sufficient for scientific analysis. The +third and next step would be to organize a Compagnie de +Recherche, with the object of beginning a serious exploitation. +The future thus settled, I was kindly and courteously dismissed, +with a desire that I should take charge of the specimens, and +personally superintend the work of assaying. Mr. Charles Clarke +received pay and leave for three months, and was ordered to +convey the boxes by "long sea." + +On May 10th we left Cairo in company with our friend Mr. Garwood, +C.E. At Alexandria a great repose fell upon my spirit; it was +like gliding into a smooth port after a storm at sea. All the +petty troubles and worries of Cairo; the cancans, the intrigues, +the silly reports of the envious and the jealous, with the buzz +and sting of mosquitoes; the weary waiting; the visits of +"friends" whose main object in life seemed to be tuer le ver; and +the exigencies of my late fellow-travellers, who, after liberal +pay and free living for four months, seemed determined to quarter +themselves upon the Egyptian Government for the rest of their +natural lives;--all these small cares, not the less annoying +because they were small, disappeared like magic at the first +glimpse of blue water. I had barely time to pass an afternoon at +Ramleh, "the Sand-heap," with an intimate of twenty-five years' +standing, Hartley John Gisborne, an old servant of the Egyptian +"Crown," for whom new men and new measures have, I regret to see, +made the valley of the Nile no longer habitable. + +The next Sunday placed us on board the Austro-Hungarian Lloyd's +screw-steamer Austria (Capitano Rossol). As usual, the commander +and officers did all they could to make their voyagers +comfortable; the Company did the contrary. At this spring season, +true, the migratory host of unfeathered bipeds crowds northwards; +even as in autumn it accompanies the birds southwards. But when +berths are full, passengers should be refused; and if the +commercial director prefers dead to live goods, travellers should +be duly warned. The accommodation would have been tolerable in a +second-class or third-class English steamer, which charges +fifteen shillings to a sovereign per diem; here, however, we were +paying between £2 and £3. + +The Alexandrian agent had been asked to lodge us decently. My +wife found herself in a cabin occupied by two nurses. I was +placed in a manner of omnibus, a loose box for six, of whom one +was an Armenian and two were Circassians from Daghistán--good men +enough, but not pleasant as bedroom fellows. No extra service had +been engaged for an extra cargo of seventy-two; that is, +forty-two first, and thirty second class. There were only three +stewards, including the stewardess; and the sick were left to +serve themselves. At least half a dozen were required; and, in +such places as Trieste and Alexandria, a large staff of cooks and +waiters can always be engaged in a few hours. On board any +English ship some of the smartest and handiest seamen would have +been converted into temporary attendants--here no one seemed to +think of a proceeding so far out of the usual way. There was only +one, instead of three or four cooks; and the unfortunate had to +fill a total of one hundred and thirty-five mouths, the crew +included, three times a day. The other tenant of the close and +wretched little galley lay sick with spotted typhus; and, after +barbarous neglect, he died on the day following our arrival at +Trieste--I did not hear that the surgeon of the screw-steamer +Austria had met with his deserts by summary dismissal from the +service. The Austro-Hungarian Lloyd's was once famed for good +living; over-economy and high dividends have now made the cuisine +worse than the cheapest of tables d'hôte. Provisions as well as +their preparation were so bad that Sefer Pasha, an invalid, +confined himself to a diet of potatoes and eggs. + +Add the quasi-impossibility of obtaining a bath; the +uncleanliness of the offices; the hard narrowness of the sofas; +the small basins, or rather bowls, and the tiny towels like +napkins; the clamorous pets of the small fry, cats and dogs; the +crowding of second-class passengers on the quarter-deck; and the +noise of the Armenian lady beating her maid, who objected to the +process in truly dreadful language: throw in an engine which, +despite the efforts of her energetic English engineer, Mr. +Wilkinson, managed only nine instead of eleven and a half knots +an hour; an ugly north-easter off Cape Matapan, bringing tropical +downfalls of rain; and a muggy Scirocco off Istria, when we +breathed almost as much water as air: and I think that the short +entry in my journal, "horridly uncomfortable," was to a certain +extent justified by the conduct of the poor Austria. Yet the +Austro-Hungarian Lloyd's boasts a dividend of seven per cent. She +shall see no more of my money: until she mend her ways I shall +prefer the Genoese Rubattino. + +But, as the Persian poet has it, Ín níz bug'zared--"Even these +things pass away." At Corfu we were cheered by once more meeting +Sir Charles Sebright, who looked hale and hearty as of yore. When +we reached Trieste, his Excellency Baron Pino von Friendenthall, +accompanied by the most amiable of "better halves," came off in +his galley, happily unconscious of typhus; and carried us away +without the usual troubles and delays of landing in harbour +bumboats. Friendly faces smiled a welcome; and, after an absence +of some seven months, I found myself once more in the good town +which has given us a home during the last five years. + +At Trieste I was delayed for some time, awaiting the report that +the specimens collected by the Expedition had arrived at their +destination, the warehouses of the London Docks. Mr. Clarke met +with obstacles at Suez; and, consequently, did not reach England +till June 20th, after twenty-three rough days. As her Majesty's +Foreign Office had been pleased to accord me two months of leave +to England, I determined to make the voyage by "long sea." Both +suffering from the same complaint, want of rest and of +roast-beef, as opposed to rosbif, we resolved to ship on board +the English steamer Hecla, of the B. and N. A. R. M. S. P. +Company, the old Cunard line, famous for never having lost a +life, a ship, or a letter. We left Trieste on July 7, 1878, in +charge of our excellent commander, Captain James Brown; and, +after a cruise of twenty days, viâ Venice, Palermo, and +Gibraltar--a comfortable, cheery, hygienic cruise in charming +weather over summer seas--we found ourselves once more (July +26th) in the city of the Liver. + + + + + + Appendix I. + + DATES OF THE THREE JOURNEYS (Northern, Central, and Southern) + made by the Second Khedivial Expedition. + + + + + + First Journey. + + + +(December 19, 1877, to February 13, 1878.) + + December 6, 1877, left Cairo. + 10 1877, left Suez. + 14 1877, reached El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr) + on the "Day of 'Arafát." + * * * * * + December 19, 1877, landed at El-Muwaylah. + 21 1877, marched upon Wady Tiryam. + 22 1877, marched upon Wady Sharmá. + 23 1877, marched upon Jebel el-Abyaz. + 30 1877, returned to Wady Sharmá. + January 7, 1878, marched upon 'Aynúnah. + 8 1878, halted at 'Aynúnah. + 9 1878, halted at Wady el-'Usaylah. + 10 1878, reached Magháir Shu'ayb. + 25 1878, marched upon Makná. + February 3 1878, embarked for the Marsá Dahab in the + Sinaitic Peninsula. + 4 1878, to the anchorage of El-Nuwaybi'. + 5 1878, anchored at Pharaoh's Island. + 6 1878, halted at Pharaoh's Island. + 7 1878, steamed to El-'Akabah town. + 8 1878, ran down Gulf el-'Akabah. + 9 1878, anchored under Tírán Island. + 10 1878, halted at Tírán Island. + February 11, 1878, ran from wrecking to Sináfir + Island. + 12 1878, halted at Sinafir Island. + 13 1878, returned to El-Muwaylah (Sharm + Yáhárr). + + + + + + Second Journey. + + + +(February 17, 1878, to March 8,1878.) + + February 17, 1878 walked to ruins of Abú Hawáwít. + 18 ,, marched upon the Safh Jebel Malíh in the + Wady Surr. + 19 ,, camped in the Sayl Wady el-Jimm. + 20 ,, marched upon El-Nagwah. + 21 ,, reached the head of the Wady Sadr. + 23 ,, camped below the Col, "El-Khuraytah." + 24 ,, reached the Hismá. + 25 ,, descended the two Passes and camped in + the "Jayb el-Khuraytah." + 26 ,, marched upon the Majrá el-Ruways. + 27 ,, ,, ,, ,, Wady Damah. + 28 ,, ,, ,, ,, ruins of Shuwák. + March 1 ,, halted at the ruins of Shuwák. + 2 ,, visited the ruins of Shaghab and camped + at the Majrá el-Wághir. + 3 ,, visited the ruins El-Khandakí and camped + at the plain El-Kutayyifah. + 4 ,, marched down the Wady Salmá and camped + at the Má el-Badíah. + 5 ,, reached Zibá town. + 6 ,, halted at Zibá. + 7 ,, visited the turquoise-diggings of Zibá + and camped at the Máyat el-Ghál. + 8 ,, returned to El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr). + + + + + + Complementary Excursion to the Shárr Mountain. + + + + March 13, 1878, camped in the Wady el-Káimah. + 14 ,, camped in the Wady el-Kusayb. + 15 ,, camped in the Safhat el-Wu'ayrah. + 16 ,, up the Shárr. + 17 ,, camped in the Wady Kuwayd. + 18 ,, returned to El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr). + + + + + + THIRD JOURNEY. + + + +March 21, 1878, to April 10, 1878.) + + March 21, 1878, left Sharm Yáhárr and made the + Sharm Dumayghah. + 22 ,, halted at El-Dumayghah. + 23 ,, anchored in harbour of El-Wijh. + 24 ,, set out in the Sinnár southwards. + 25 ,, anchored at El-Haurá. + 26 ,, halted at El-Haurá. + +(On March 26th MM. Marie and Philipin marched from El-Wijh to the +Wady Hamz, and rejoined head-quarters on the 28th.) + + March 27, 1878 returned to El-Wijh. + 29 ,, left El-Wijh and camped at inner fort. + 30 ,, to Umm el-Karáyát (ruins and mine). + 31 ,, visited ruins of El-Kubbah; camped in + Wady Dasnah. + April 1, 1878 to Umm el-Haráb (ruins and mine). + 2 ,, camped in the Wady Abá'l-Gezáz. + 3 ,, camped in the plain of Badá. + 4 ,, halted at the plain of Badá. + 5 ,, camped at the Ayn el-Kurr. + 6 ,, camped in the Wady Laylah. + 7 ,, camped in the Wady Abá'l-'Ajáj. + 8 ,, to the ruins of the Gasr Gurayyim Sa'íd + (classical temple). + 9 ,, to the Abá'l-Marú (Marwah mine). + 1O ,, return to El-Wijh. + + + + + +THE RETURN TO EGYPT. + + + + April 12, 1878 steamed northwards to Nu'man Island. + 13 ,, reached El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr). + 18 ,, left El-Muwaylah, night at sea. + 19 ,, in Gulf of Suez. + 20 ,, reached Suez. + 22 ,, reached Cairo. + + + + + + Appendix II. + + + +EXPENSES OF THE EXPEDITION TO MIDIAN, commanded by Captain R. F. + Burton, H.B.M. Consul, Trieste. + +Cairo, November 1, 1877. + + £ s. d. +Sum received from Egyptian Finance 1977 12 0 + +Amounts Paid out by Order of Captain Burton. £ s. d. + +Hotel bills for five persons (thirty-six days) 149 6 9 +Advanced to members of Expedition up to date + (May 3rd)[EN#87] 74 12 3 +Cost of provisions for journey to Midian, + fourteen persons 314 8 9 +Cost of tools, chemicals, instruments, + canteen, etc. 185 19 0 +Medicine chest from Dr. Lowe 10 10 0 + +Journey to Suez from Cairo, December 6th, 1878:-- + Hotel bill for eleven persons (three days) 33 3 6 + Tobacco for presents to Bedawin 6 8 0 + Sundries 13 10 6 + Telegrams and post service 3 9 0 + __________________ + £791 7 9 + +El-Muwaylah, December 16th, to return, February 13th:-- + Journey to north[EN#88] 316 14 3 + Post service 14 8 0 + Cost of sheep[EN#89] 32 14 0 + Sundries[EN#90] 20 7 7 + Five foot-soldiers' salaries 7 4 0 + +Eastern journey to the Hismá[EN#91] 187 6 6 +Post service 3 8 0 +Cost of sheep[EN#92] 11 19 0 +Sundries 5 11 0 +Sambúk from Suez, as per contract 9 4 0 +Soldiers from fort 3 0 0 + +Journey to Shárr[EN#93] 44 11 6 +Cost of sheep[EN#94] 3 4 0 +Thirty pairs of boots for soldiers[EN#95] 6 0 0 +Sundries 1 0 0 +Journey to south[EN#96] 92 13 0 +Cost of sheep[EN#97] 15 16 0 +Post service 2 0 0 +Sundries[EN#98] 18 3 6 +Special payments:-- + Sayyid 'Abd el-Rahím Effendi 16 0 0 + Bukhayt 1 12 0 + Husayn 1 12 0 + Shaykh Furayj 4 0 0 + Shaykh Furayj salary for twenty-five days 5 0 0 +Expenses at Suez, unloading, etc., and hotel bills + for ten persons 39 17 0 +Post and telegrams 1 16 0 +Suez to Cairo 1 12 6 + _________________ + £1658 1 7 + +Expenses at Cairo up to date May 5, 1878:-- + Unloading, cartage, and preparing for Exhibition 24 5 5 +Salaries of persons engaged from Cairo and Muwaylah:-- + Anton Dimitri, Giorgi, and Petro[EN#99] 93 17 6 + Magazine-man at El-Muwaylah[EN#100] 6 8 0 + Sais from Suez, engaged through governor[EN#101] 9 0 0 + Mr. Clarke's salary[EN#102] 180 0 0 + _________________ + £1971 12 6 +In hand for small expenses not yet sent in + for payment 5 19 6 + _________________ + £1977 12 0 + _________________ +Sent in May 6, 1878. + +(Signed) CHAS. CLARKE. +(Countersigned) RICHARD F. BURTON. + Commanding Expedition. + + + + + + + Appendix III. + PRESERVED PROVISIONS AND OTHER STORES, supplied by Messrs. + Voltéra Bros., of the Ezbekiyyah, Cairo. + + + + + £ s. d. +95 okes potatoes, at 5d. 1 19 7 +670 okes best rice, at 8 1/2d. 23 14 7 +152 okes sugar, at 11 1/2d. per kilog. 8 19 6 1/2 +60 okes ground coffee, at 4s. 6d. 13 10 0 +120 tins milk, at 14s. 7 0 0 +120 bottles pickles 6 0 0 +15 tins butter (of 1 lb.), at 2s. 6d. 1 17 6 +60 okes oil, at 2s. 6d. 7 10 0 +6 heads English cheese (60 1/4 lbs.) at 1s. 5d. 4 10 4 1/2 +160 okes dried French beans, at 10d. 6 13 4 +60 okes maccaroni and paste 3 0 0 +54 okes onions, at 7d. 1 11 6 +10 okes garlic, at 10d. 0 8 4 +50 packets candles 2 10 0 +5 okes cavendish tobacco, at 12s. 3 0 0 +6 okes tobacco (Turkish), at 24s. 7 4 0 +120 bottles soda-water, at 8d. per dozen 4 0 0 +20 bottles syrups, at 2s. 2 0 0 +50 bottles vinegar 2 10 0 +10 dozen beer, at 11s. 5 10 0 +15 bars soap, at 1s. 6d. 1 2 6 +20 pots mustard, at 1s. 6d. 1 10 0 +6 bottles curry, at 1s. 6d. 0 9 0 +20 lbs. table raisins 0 16 0 +10 large bottles pepper, at 2s. 1 0 0 + _________________ + £118 6 3 + +10 small packets salt, at 1s. 0 10 0 +5 large packets salt at 1s. 6d. 0 7 6 +6 bottles sauces, at s. 12d. 0 7 0 +12 bottles lime-juice, at 2s. 6d. 1 10 0 +12 umbrellas, at 4s. 2 8 0 +12 bottles blacking, at 1s. + (for tracing inscriptions) 0 12 0 +6 lanterns, at 1s. 6d. 0 9 0 +12 large tins sardines, at 1s. 6d. 0 18 0 +2 corkscrews, at 1s. 3d. 0 2 6 +2 opening knives 0 2 0 +101 1/4 okes of biscuits, at 1s. 5 1 3 +1 case Mumm's champagne 4 5 0 +1 case cognac, XX 2 8 0 +1 case whisky 1 16 0 +1 tin plum-pudding 0 2 6 +10 packets matches, at 1s. 2d. 0 11 8 +8 barrels flour, at L3 24 0 0 +4 okes Curani (Kora'ni) tobacco, at 16s. 3 4 0 +30 lbs. tea, at 4s. 6 0 0 +24 tins green peas, at 1s. 1 4 0 +18 tins haricots verts, at 1s. 0 18 0 +18 tins haricots flageolets, at 1s. 0 18 0 +18 tins champignons, at 1s. 2d. 1 1 0 +18 tins macedoine, at 1s. 0 18 0 +8 tins carrots, at 1s. 0 8 0 +16 tins asparagus (large), at 3s. 2 8 0 +53 1/2 lbs. ham, at 1s. 6d. 4 0 3 +100 bottles 'Ráki, at 2s. 10 0 0 +100 tins meats, at 1s. 6d. 7 10 0 +4 dozen pints beer, at 8s. 1 12 0 +7 empty tins for coffee, at 1s. 6d. 0 10 6 +17 empty bags 0 14 2 +4 okes packing rope, at 2s. 0 8 0 +1/4 okes isinglass 0 3 0 +2 bottles spices 0 2 0 +10 nutmegs 0 1 0 + _________________ + £205 16 7 + + £ s. d. +1 packet starch 0 3 0 +1 oke twine 0 2 6 +2 okes nails, at 10d. 0 1 8 +1 box cigarette papers 0 8 0 + Kitchen utensils 0 13 6 + Empty bags 0 2 0 + Packing 2 10 0 + _________________ + Total £209 17 3 + _________________ + + + + + + Additional Supplies. + + + + £ s. d. +50 bottles 'Ráki, at 2s. 5 0 0 +95 okes potatoes, at 5d. 1 19 7 +16 lbs. tea, at 4s. 3 4 0 +50 tins preserved meats, at 1s. 6d. 3 15 0 +20 tins green peas, at 1s. 1 0 0 +12 tins haricots verts, at 1s. 0 12 0 +12 tins champignon, at 1s. 2d. 0 14 0 +6 tins first size asparagus, at 4s. 1 4 0 +10 tins butter (1 lb.), at 2s. 8d 1 6 8 +36 lbs. English cheese, at 1s. 6d. 2 14 0 +60 okes maccaroni 3 0 0 +126 okes onions, at 7d. 3 13 6 +20 packets candles 1 0 0 +50 boxes matches, at 1s. 2d. doz. 0 5 0 +5 bars soap, at 1s. 6d. 0 7 6 +12 bottles sauces, at 1s. 2d. 0 14 0 +6 large bottles pepper, at 2s. 0 12 0 +10 small packets salt, at 1s. 0 10 0 +5 bottles lime-juice, at 2s. 6d. 0 12 6 +108 okes hard biscuits, at 1s. 5 8 0 +2 1/2 okes snuff 2 10 0 +16 lbs. ginger-root, at 1s. 6d. 1 4 0 +2 doz. whisky, at 36s. 3 12 0 +2 doz. Martel's cognac 4 4 0 +6 bottles absinthe, 2s. 6d. 0 15 0 + _________________ + £49 16 9 + +5 bottles Oxley's essence of ginger, at 4s. 1 0 0 +5 bottles pyretic saline, at 3s. 6d. 0 17 6 +3 boxes seidlitz powders, at 2s. 0 6 0 +1 bottle aconite 0 2 6 +4 iron tea and coffee kettles 1 14 0 +2 empty tins for tea 0 3 0 + Packing 1 10 0 + Carts, 2s.; railway fare, 82s. 4 4 0 + _________________ + Total £59 13 9 + + + + + + APPENDIX IV. + BOTANY AND LIST OF INSECTS. + + + + + +SECTION I. + + + +PROFESSOR D. OLIVER'S LIST OF DRIED PLANTS presented by Captain +Burton to the Herbarium, Royal Gardens, Kew, September, 1878. + + Núman North Middle South + Isle. Midian. Midian. Midian. + +Anastatica hierochuntina, L. + Kaff maryam ................ - I - - +Morettia parviflora, Boiss. + Eaten by cattle. Thagar; + Gaf'aa ..................... - - I I +Matthiola oxyceras, DC. + forma gracilis. Animals + eat. Hazá; Muhawwil ..... - - I - +Malcolmia aegyptiaca, Spr. + Animals eat. Tarbeh ...... - I - - +Zilla myagroides, F. Silla. + Camels eat. ............... - I - - +Biscutella Columnae, Ten .... - - I - +Diplotaxis Harra? Hárrah. + Eaten by cattle. .......... - - I - +Diplotaxis acris, Boiss. + (Moricandia crassifolia, + Gay) ...................... - I - - +Sisymbrium erysimoides, Desf. + Salih. Eaten by camels + and sheep ................. - I I I +Farsetia Burtonae, Oliv. + sp. nov. Ghurayrá ........ - I I - +Schimpera arabica, H. and + St. ....................... - I - - +Enarthrocarpus lyratus, F., + vel E. strangulatus, + Boiss ..................... - I - - +Capparis Sodada, Br. (Sodada + decidua, Forsk.). Tanzub. + Red berries eaten. ........ - - - I +Cleome chrysantha, Dcne. + Mashteh. Pounded and + drank for worms, etc. ..... - - - I +Cleome arabica, L. 'Ubaysd. + Eaten by animals. ......... - - - I +Papaver Decaisnei, H. and St. - - I - +Ochradenus baccatus, Del. + Gurzi. A large tree; + eaten by cattle ........... - I - I +Reseda (Caylusea) canescens, + L. Zanabán. Eaten by + cattle .................... - I I - +Reseda, an R. stenostachya(?), + Boiss. Khizám. Eaten by + animals ................... - I - - +Helianthemum Lippii, Pers. + Kazim. Cattle eat. ........ - - I - +Silene villosa, Forsk. + 'Abaysá. Too much coated + with sand to serve as + food for animals .......... - I - - +Gypsophila Rokejeka, Del. ... - - I - +Polycarpaea fragilis, Del. + Makr ...................... I - - - +Portulaca oleracea, L. ...... - - - I +Hibiscus micranthus, L. fil. + forma. Khusiyat Ráshid. + Eaten by animals. ......... - - I I +Abutilon fruticosum, G. and + P. (Sida denticulata, + Fres.). ................... - - - I +Abutilon muticum, Don ....... - - - I +Erodium laciniatum, Cav. + Garná. Eaten by cattle ... - I I I +Monsonia nivea, Gay ......... - I - - +Geranium mascatense, Boiss. + Hiláwá. Eaten by man and + beast. .................... - - I - +Erodium cicutarium, L. ...... - I - - +Tribulus terrestris, L. + Katbeh .................... - I I I +Zygophyllum simplex, L. ..... - - I - +Zygophyllum album, L. + Gallúm. Camels eat. ...... I - - - +Zygophyllum coccineum, L. + forma (Z. propinqiuum, + Dcne.). Muráká. + Animals eat. .............. - I - - +Fagonia cretica, L. van + (F. glutinosa, Del.). + Shikáá (North Midian); + Darmeh (Núman) ........... I I - - +Fagonia mollis, Del. + Warágá; and young plant + of same = Zarag. Animals + eat. ...................... - I I - +Fagonia Bruguieri, DC. + Jamdeh. Animals eat. ...... - I - - +Dodonmaea viscosa, L. var. + (D. arabica, H. and + St.). Athab ............... - - I - +Rhus oxyacanthoides, Dum. + 'Ar'ar .................... - - I - +Neurada procumbens, L. + Sáadán. Eaten by man and + beast. Mountain region. ... - I - I +Trianthema pentandra, L. .... - - - I +Trianthema(?). (Imperfect + specimen.) Rumayh. Eaten by + sheep and cattle. ......... - - - I +Aizoon canariense, L. Dááá. + Grain pounded and eaten. .. - - - I +Gisekia pharnaceoides, L. ... - I - - +Cucumis prophetarum, L. + Locality mislaid. ......... +Cotyledon umbilicus, L. + forma ..................... - - I - +Pimpinella arabica, Boiss. + Rujaylet el-Ghuráb (Little + Crow's-foot). Sheep eat. + Locality astray. .......... +Pimpinella (Tragium + palmetorum? St. and H.). + Very young. ............... - I I - +Ferula (? sp., leaf only). + Kalkh. Animals eat. High up + on SHÁRR. ................. +Grammosciadium scandicinum, + Boiss. sp. nov. ............ - - I I +Medicago laciniata, All. ..... - - I - +Taverniera aegyptiaca, Boiss. + (ex descr.). Shibrig. Eaten + by animals. ................ I - - - +Indigofera spinosa, Forsk. + Shibrig. Camels eat. Good + fodder. .................... - - - I +Indigofera paucifolia, D. .... - I - - +Indigofera (stunted specimen, + may be I. paucifolia). + 'Afar. Animals eat. ........ - I - - +Tephrosia Apollinea, DC. + Dalsam; Táwil. Animals eat. - I I I +Genista (Retama) monosperma, + Del. ....................... - I - - +Lotononis Leobordea, Bth. + Hurbat. Eaten by cattle. ... - I I - +Trigonella stellata, Forsk. + (T. microcarpa, Fres.) ..... - I I - +Onobrychis(?), possibly + O. Ptolemaica. (Barren + specimen). ................. - I - - +Astragalus sparsus(?), Dcne. . - I - - +Astragalus Sieberi, DC. + Ghákeh. Dry and pounded + root mixed with clarified + butter. Drunk as a + restorative. ............... - I - I +Astragalus Forskahlei, Boiss. + Kidád. Camels eat. ........ - I - - +Cassia obovata, Coll. Senna .. - I I I +Iphiona scabra, DC. Zafrah. + Camels eat. ................ - I - - +Pulicaria undulata, DC. + Rabul. Fine perfume. ....... - I - - +Blumea Bovei, DC. + (B. abyssinica, Sch.) ...... - I - I +Ifloga spicata, Forsk. + Zenaymeh. Animals eat. ..... - - - I +Asteriscus pygmaeus, C. and + Dur. ....................... - - - I +Anvillaea Garcini, DC. + (fide Boissier). Nukud. + Eaten by camels and sheep. . - - I - +Anthemis, an A. deserti(?), + Boiss. Gahwán. Camels + eat: also called Gurrays, + pounded and eaten with + dates. ..................... - I I I +Matricaria (Chamaemelum) + auriculata (Boiss.) ........ - - I - +Senecio Decaisnei, DC. + Umm lewinayn ............... - - I I +Senecio coronopifolius, Desf. - I I - +Calendula aegyptiaca, Desf. . - - I - +Calendula aegyptiaca(?) ..... - I - - +Calendula, an var. + aegyptiacae(?) ............ - - - I +Echinops spinosus, L. + Akhshir. Eaten by camels, + sheep, and asses. ......... - - I I +Zoegea purpurea, Fres. + Rubayyán. Cattle eat. .... - - I - +Centaurea sinaica, DC. + Yemrár. Eaten by sheep, + asses, etc. ............... - I - I +Picridium tingitanum, Desf. + forma. Huwwá; Tiz + el-Kalbeh; El-Haudán. + Eaten by man and animals. . - I I I +Urospermum picroides, Desf. . - I - - +Microrhynchus nudicaulis, + Less. 'Azid ............... I - I I +Pterotheca bifida, F. and M. - I I - +Picris, conf. P. Saha*ae, + C. and K. ................. - - - I +Picris cyanocarpa, Boiss. ... - - I - +Callipeltis cucullaria, + Stev. 'Ikrish. Cattle eat. + North or Central Midian. +Crucianella membranacea, + Boiss. ................... - - I - +Galium capillare, Dcne ..... - - I - +Salvadora persica, L. + El-Arák ................. - I - I +Rhazya stricta, Dcne. + Harjal. Eaten only by + mules. Very fragrant. .... - I - - +Daemia cordata, R. Br. ..... - - I - +Steinheilia radians, Dcne. + Faká .................... - I - - +Convolvulus Hystrix, V. + Shibrim. Root used as a + purgative. Animals eat + upper part of plant. .... - - - I +Cuscuta, conf. + C. brevistyla, A. Br. ... - - I - +Withania somnifera, Dun. + Shajarat el-Dib ......... - I - - +Lycium europaeum, L. + 'Aushaz. Eaten by + animals. ................ - - I I +Solanum coagulans(?), + Forsk. var. (A small + fragment only). ......... - - I - +Hyoscyamus pusillus, + L. Saykrán ............. - I I - +Heliotropium arbainense, + Fres. Rahháb. Cattle + eat. .................... - I I - +Trichodesma africanum, + R. Br. Ahmim. Camels and + other animals eat. ...... - - I - +Echium longifolium(?), Del. + Kahlá. Animals eat. .... - - I - +Anchusa Milleri, W. ....... - - I - +Anchusa Milleri(?) young + specimens. .............. - - I - +Anchusa Milleri(?) young + specimens. .............. - I - - +Gastrocotyle (Anchusa + hispida, Forsk.). Karir. + Camels eat. ............. - - - I +Arnebia hispidissima, + A. DC. Fayná. Animals + eat. .................... - I I - +Lithospermum callosum, V. . - I - - +Lindenbergia sinaica, + Bth. Mallih. Cattle eat. - - - I +Verbascum (in bud), an + V. sinaiticum(?), Bth. . - - - I +Verbascum, sp. nov. Sammá - - I - +Herpestis Monniera, + Kth. Nafal. Animals eat. - I - - +Veronica Anagallis, L. ... - - - I +Linaria aegyptiaca, Dum. . - I - - +Linaria macilenta, Dcne. + Zuraymat el-Himar. + Eaten by animals. ...... - - I - +Linaria (*§ Elatinoides), + sp. imperfect. ......... - - I - +Linaria simplex(?), DC. .. - I I - +Linaria Haelava Chav. + (fide Boissier) ........ - I - - +Blepharis edulis, Pers. + (Acanthodium spicatum, + Del.). Shauk el-Jemel. + Camels fond of it. ..... - I - I +Lavandula coronopifolia, + Poir. Zayteh. All + animals eat. ........... - I I - +Mentha lavandulacea, W. + Habag. Animals do not + eat. Pounded and mixed + with fresh dates, "good + for stomach". .......... - I - - +Salvia aegyptiaca, L. .... - I - - +Salvia deserti, Dcne. .... - - I - +Salvia, an S. deserti(?). + Jáadeh. Pounded in + water and snuffed up + nose. .................. - - I - +Otostegia, var. O. + scariosae(?), Bth. (vel + O. repanda, Bth.) + Ghasseh. Sheep eat. .... - - I I +Statice axillaris, Forsk. + Annúm. Camels eat. .... - I - I +Plantago Psyllium, L. + Nez'i'ah. Animals eat. . - I I - +Plantago amplexicaulis, + Cav. Yanameh. Animals + eat. ................... - - I - +Aerwa javanica, Jass. + Rayl. Cattle eat. ...... - I - I +Chenopodium murale, L.? .. - I - - +Chenopodium murale, L.? + (Small seedlings.) + Nafal. Cattle eat. ..... - - - I +Atriplex dimorphostegia? + K. and K. Roghol. + Animals eat. ........... - I - - +Echinopsilon lanatum, Moq. + Garay'á. ............... - I - I +Suaeda sp.(?). (Small + fragment.) .............. - I - - +Suaeda sp.(?). (Barren + fragments, insect + punctured?) 'Aslá. + Forage plant. ........... I - I - +Suaeda monoica? Forsk. + Zuraygá. Forage plant. . I - - - +Salsola(?), cf. S. + longifolia, F. Hamz. + Camels eat. ............. I - - - +Caroxylon(?) (barren + specimen), near C., + foetidum. Akahrit. + Animals eat. ............ I - - - +Rumex vesicarius, L. + (R. roseus, Del.). + Hammáz. Animals eat. ... - - I - +Emex spinosus, Camp. ...... - I - - +Crozophora tinctoria, Juss. + Hinaydieh. Not eaten. ... - - - I +Euphorbia cornuta, Pers. + 'Atir ................... - I - - +Euphorbia scordifolia, + Jacq. Gharghir. Animals + eat. .................... - I - - +Euphorbia (Anisophyllum) + granulata, Schf. + Rugaygeh. Animals eat. .. - - - I +Euphorbia (Anisophyllum) + granulata, forma(?). + Lubayneh. Cattle eat. ... - - - I +Juniperus phoenicea, L. + At four thousand feet on + Sharr. Trunk thicker + than a man's body. + Halibeh. ................ - - I - +Parietaria alsinifolia, + Del. .................... - - I - +Forskahlea tenacissima, L. + Lissák. Animals eat. ... - - I - +Asphodelus fistulosus, L. + (var. tenuifolius, + Bker.). Bo'rak. Only + eaten by animals when + very hungry. Asses eat. . - I I - +Bellevalia flexuosa, Boiss. - I - - +Dipcadi erythraeum, Webb .. - I - - +Gagea reticulata, R. and S. - I - - +Juncus maritimus, L. ...... - - - I +Scirpus Holoschoenus, L. + Namas. Sent to Egypt for + mats. ................... - - - I +Cyperus conglomeratus, + Rottb. (Young specimens) - I - - +Chloris villosa, Pers. .... - - I - +AEluropus repens .......... - I - - +Tricholaena micrantha, + Schrad. Ghazuiar. Eaten + by camels, etc. ......... - - I I +Panicum turgidum, Forsk. + Zarram. Good fodder. .... - I - I +Arundo Donax, L. Kasbá ... - I - - +Polypogon monspeliensis, + Desf. Kháfúr. Sheep + eat. .................... - - - I +Stipa tortilis, Desf. + Pehmeh. Animals eat. .... - I I I +Aristida caerulescens, + Desf. Shárib el-Kale. + Animals eat. ............ - I I - +Hordeum maritimum, L. ..... - I - - +Pappophorum, an P. + phleoides(?), R. and S. + Nejil. Sheep eat. ....... - - - I +Barren specimen. + Indeterminable. Grass ... - I - - +Grass(?). Root and leaves. + Hashmil. Animals eat. ... I - - - +Typha(?). Root and + fragments of leaves. + Birdi ................... - - - I +Grass. Fragmentary. Záeh. + Cattle eat. ............. - - - I +Chara foetida, Braun. + 'Ishnik ................. - I - - +A barren fragment of + undershrub, with opposite + fleshy leaves with + recurved margins. Ajid. + Eaten by animals. + Doubtful. ............... I - - - + +D. OLIVER. + + + + + +SECTION II. + + + +The spirit-specimens submitted to Mr. William Carruthers, of the +British Museum, are described by him as follows:-- + +1. Phallus impudicus, Linn. (in Arab. Faswat el-'Ajúz). The common +"stinkhorn," extremely common in some districts of England, and obtruding +on the notice of every one from its detestable odour. It is widely +distributed over America and Africa, as well as Europe, but I find no +record of its occurring in Asia. + +2. Tulostoma mammosum, Fr. Also British, but not so common. Widely +distributed. + +3. Phelipoea lutea, Desf. A dark, fleshy broom-rape, with scaly leaves. We +have one species of the same genus in England. They are parasitic on +the roots of plants; and the Midianite species, which is found in North +Africa, Egypt, and Arabia, grows on the roots of a Chenopodium. + +4. Cynomorium coccineum, Mich. A fleshy, leafless plant, also a root- +parasite. It was called by old writers Fungus Melitensis, and was of much +repute in medicine. It is known from the Himalayas to the Canary +Islands, and is said by Webb, in his history of the Canaries, to be eaten in +the Island of Lancerotte. + +5. Doemia cordata, R. Br. A spiny shrub, with roundish leaves and small +sharp-pointed fruit, found in Egypt and Arabia. + +6. Capparis galeata, Fres., with large fruit, long and pear-shaped. This +caper is well known; from Syria and Egypt. + +(Signed) W. CARRUTHERS. + +INSECTS COLLECTED IN MIDIAN BY CAPTAIN BURTON. +(Identified by Mr. Frederick Smith, of the British Museum.) + +COLEOPTERA. + +Geodephaga + +l. Anthia 12 guttata. + +Melolonthidoe. + +2. Schizonycha reflexa. +3. Pachydema. + +Dynastidoe. + +4. Heteronychus. + +Curculionidoe. + +5. Cleonus arabs. + +Heteromera. + +6. Mesostenanear punctipennis. +7. Adesmia. +8. Akis Goryi? +9. Mylabris. + +Hemiptera. + +10. Nepa rubra. + +Mantidoe. + +11. Eremiaphila arenaria. 12. Blepharis mendica. + +Orthoptera. + +13. Acocera. +14. Acridium peregrinum. 15. Poecilocera bufonia. + +Scorpionidea. + +16. Androctonus funestus. +17. " leptochelys. +18. " quinquestriatus. + +Arachnida. + +19. Galeodes arabs, in spirit. +20. Clubiona Listeri, in spirit. + +(Signed) FREDK. SMITH. + + + + + + APPENDIX V. + + + +METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL +(December 19, 1877, to April 17, 1878). + + + +METEOROLOGICAL NOTES ON TRAVELLING IN MIDIAN. + +Midian follows the rule of Syria--travel in the spring. The best time on the +seaboard is during the months of March, April, and May. In the mountains and +the Hismá plateau, April, May, and June are the most favourable. In Syria +(Damascus) the autumn is dangerous: the finest travelling weather is in March +to May. The second best season is between October and December. + +January and February are cold; the latter also (sometimes) rainy. + +March is stormy at first (El-'Uwweh), but afterwards gets warmer (El-Ni'ám). +Dews now begin, and last some three months: they wet everything like a sharp +shower, and make the air feel soppy. + +In July the first dates come in. Fevers are prevalent during this month, and +also during August and September. + +October is a month of heat and drought. + +In November the first cold occurs. + +December is the coldest month. + +NOTES on TRAVELLING IN LOWER EGYPT. + +September is very bad--all should escape who can. Fruits everywhere; sun hot; +air damp with irrigation water, white fogs and other horrors. + +October is a good month, the weather being neither too hot nor too +cold. + +November is the month of the "second water" irrigation about Cairo. + +December is pleasant. + +January is cold and sometimes wet. + +February is stormy, and even foggy with sand-mist. + +March is windy, but on the whole a good month, except for Khamsin, which +begins about March 20th. + +April begins to feel warm (April 29, 1878, Shamm el-Nasim). + +The winter presents a marvellous contrast to that of England, which +can often show one hour and five minutes' sunlight in the twenty-four, or +2.8 per cent. of its possible duration. + +THE TIDES + +In El-'Akabah are like Suez: first of month, flood, 6--12 a.m. and p.m.; ebb, +the rest. But at Suez the tides rise one metre, and at times two metres; at +El-'Akabah (February 7), one foot. + +For the instruments NOT used in this Expedition, see Chap. I. p. 11. + +The barometre aneroid sold by M. Ebner was partially repaired by M. Lacaze, +and served for Mr. David Duguid's observations. + +My pocket set by Casella (maker to the Admiralty and Ordnance) +consisted of-- + +One watch aneroid (compensated, 1182). +Two sets wet and dry bulb thermometers (one broken). +One set maxima and minima thermometers, Nos. 12,877 and 12,906. +Two pocket hygrometers not numbered. + + + + + +OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING FIRST MARCH BETWEEN DECEMBER +19, 1877, AND FEBRUARY 18, 1878 + + + +December 19, 1877, compared ship's (Mukhbir) mercurial barometer, 758 +millimetres, with my aneroid by Casella (29.85) = 765 millimetres; difference +in +ship's, + 007 millimetre. + +January 31, 1878, returned on board Mukhbir at Makná. Ship's mercurial +barometer, 773 millimetres; my aneroid by Casella, 764 millimetres; difference +in ship's, + 009 millimetre. + +Date. Time. Aneroid Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hygr. Remarks. + Inches. Milli. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.) + +Dec. 19. 7a.m. 29.85 765 76 - - 58 On deck of gunboat + Mukhbir, at Sharm + Yahárr, steaming to El- + Muwaylah. Morning ugly. + Strong land-breeze, + turned to Azyab ("south- + easter"). Waves rising. + Dark-blue clouds to + windward. + + Noon. 29.80 757 77 - - 54 In big tent on shore, + open east and west. Wind + high. Everything feels + damp; looks gloomy; + mountains almost hidden + by clouds. Landscape + that of Europe. No sun + nor sunshine all day. + + 3p.m. 29.09 - 86 - - 51 In my small tent. + Clearing to windward + (north). Wind veering to + north. Moon nearly full. + High fleecy clouds. Sea + high. No sun all day. + +Azyab (the wet wind) generally lasts two or three days; veers round by west to +north. Much rain has already fallen (Arab lies). Land green (all brown); grass +plentiful (not a blade to be seen). Rains here December 15th to February 15th; +downfall one hour to four hours, then clears. On December 8th, violent rain +for one hour; filled all the torrents (Sayl). + +Dec. 20. 7a.m. 29.80 758 63 - - 40 In small tent open to + east. Morning clear. Few + fleecy clouds: cool and + bright. "Misri" from + north-west; cold and + rain. + + 3p.m. 29.92 759 78 - - 32 Hot in tents, cool in + breeze. "Misri" high and + strong sea. At 1.10 p.m. + heavy clouds; expected + rain--few heavy drops. + +AT EL-MUWAYLAH AND RAS WADY TIRYAM. + +Dec. 21. 6.35a.m. 30.02 763 71 - - 35 Inside tent. Full moon + and clear. Dawn, 6 a.m.; + night, 6.30. Speckled + clouds. + + Noon. 30.48 764 76 - - 48 Under umbrella. Air + clear. Mottled clouds on + mountains. Sea horizon. + Low white bank of + clouds. + + 3p.m. 30.05 763 77 - - 39 "Misri." High cirri from + west. Big black cloud + over sea. Suspected + rain: Arabs said no. + Cloud dispersed. + +AT RAS WADY TIRYAM. + +Dec. 22. 7a.m. 30.01 760 57 - - 32 Cold night. Clear + morning. Cold sunrise. + Dry north-wester. + Instruments on paper, + resting on the sand. + Very dry. + + Noon. 30.14 - 82 - - 22 Very dry. Straight + streaks of cirri + everywhere. + + 4p.m. 30.00 763 72 - - 17 At Wady Sharmá, on sand + protected from west + wind. Bright moon, + showed halo. + +Kayhak 14 begins the Coptic winter, properly speaking evening of 13th; after +sunset 1 hour 51 minutes. Sea-breeze and land-winds regular to-day and +throughout the month. + +AT WADY SHARMÁ. + +Dec. 23. 7a.m. 29.90 760 58 - - 19 Instruments on box + standing on sand. Moon + with halo at night. Red + sunrise, grey clouds. + Mountains blue-grey, + brightly defined. Before + dawn moon two halos, + large and small. Fleecy + clouds. Nine a.m. clear, + sun hot. + + 2.30p.m. 29.15 740 78 - - 25 Under rock in upper Wady + Sharmá. Streaky cirri. + Sun hot; air cool. + Little sea-breeze, kept + off by hills. + +Arrived at the "White Mountain," and stayed there a week. + + 4p.m. 29.12 740 75 - - 28 At Jebel el-Abyaz, on + box behind tent + sheltered from wind. Air + quite still; streaky + cirri. Camp Jebel el- + Abyaz, say, 800 feet + above sea. Felt very + dry. + +AT JEBEL EL-ABYAZ. + +Dec. 24 7a.m. 29.10 738 61 - - 29 In mess tent on mess + table. Cold. Mottled + clouds east and zenith. + Grey bank to sea + reddened by sunrise, + like storm clouds. Rain + here from Azyab ("south- + east"). Sunrise at + Cairo, 6.55 a.m. + + Noon. 29.00 737 64 63 55 33 Suspended instruments. + Grey day: cold breeze + from east. Cold comes + only from wind; when no + breeze, very mild. + Getting greyer and + colder. Very like rain-- + heavey clouds. + + 3.10p.m. 29.00 737 64 64 52 28 Wind west, cold and raw. + Air grey and cold. + Evening cold; clouds + dispersed, sun came out. + Wind to west, inclining + to north. + +Small thermometer shows higher than Casellás because in brass case; not so +well exposed to air. + +Dec. 25. 7a.m. 29.10 739 50 50 45 29 Morning cool and clear. + + Noon. 29.20 - 72 68 55 21 Very clear, still, and + hot. Slight breeze from + sea (west). Sun strong. + Swarms of flies. Dry + bulb in sun, 73 degrees; + wet, 60 degrees. + + 3p.m. 29.16 741 72 69 54 15 Cool and gentle breeze + from sea, dispersing the + swarms of flies. At + times "sand-devil" from + north-west. + +All this day's observations taken on writing table in large tent. Night cold: +cold severest after two a.m. and before sunrise. Sky at night perfectly clear. +Wind from north turning to east, a Barri ("land-breeze"). Height of Jebel el- +Abyaz above tents, by aneroid = 350 feet (29.20 - 28.85 = 0.35). + +Dec. 26. 7.15a.m. 29.21 743 48 46 43 22 In tent. Sky perfectly + clear. + + Noon. 29.26 - 76 77 55 6 Sun very hot. Air quite + still. Fleecy clouds + from west over the sun. + + 4.45p.m. 29.23 743 73 69 55 8 Sun cooler. Air + perfectly clear. + +Dec. 27. 7a.m. 29.16 740 50 49 43 5 3 In tent. Morning cold + and clear: few flecks of + cloud to east. Air feels + intensely dry. + + 12.30p.m.29.23 743 77 74 58 9 Fine cirri high up. Sky + blue. Sun veiled at + times. Very little wind, + a breath from north. + + 3.20p.m. 59.16 742 80 77 56 6 Sky with filmy white + clouds, thicker at west. + Sun hidden; very hot at + noon (rain-sun?). Not a + breath of air. Sense of + intense dryness. Ink + evaporates at once. Cool + breeze started up + shortly after 3.30 p.m. + from west, then clouds + thickened. Thermometer + fell 4 degrees. + +Cool evening; quite clear. Fevers and feverish colds begin to show themselves +in camp. Minimum thermometer during night--No. 1, 45 degrees; No. 2, 46 +degrees; French, 15-1/2 degrees (Centigrade). + +Dec. 28 7a.m. 29.10 739 55 53 46 10 In tent. Still. Neither + warm nor cold. Mottled + clouds. + + Noon. 29.13 740 78 72 58 4 Clouds thin. Sun very + hot (rain-sun?). Light + breeze from north-west. + + 3p.m. 29.10 739 79 72 58 - Feels intensely dry. + Hot, close. Heavy + clouds, and purple to + west. Gusts from west. + +No wind. Morning and evening very mild. At eight p.m. dark cloud moving from +south-west to mountains. Drops of rain; then stars. Minimum thermometers +during night, both 48 degrees. None of the maximum will act. + +Dec. 29. 7a.m. 29.10 738 58 58 54 9 In tent. Cool, clear. + Blue-pink in west. Light + sea-breezes from west. + Must be awfully hot in + summer. In closed tent + at eleven a.m., 92 + degrees. + + Noon. 29.13 - 77 75 60 10 Nice breeze from sea + (west), bending to + north. + + 4p.m. 29.00 739 82 79 59 5 Warm and quite still. + +Mean of nineteen aneroid observations at Jebel el-Abyaz = 29.13. + +MARCH FROM JEBEL EL-ABYAZ TO WADY SHARMÁ. + +Dec. 30. 7a.m. 29.10 739 56 - - 7 Clear, still. No speck + of cloud. Moon Náim + (sleeping = *[figure]). + + 5p.m. 29.88 758 66 - - 8 Air quite clear. Camped + at Sharmá. Change to + shore pleasant and soft. + +Noon on journey; sun very hot. Evening still. Violent weather at night; cold +and comfortless. Abated somewhat after sunrise. + +AT SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT OPEN NORTH AND SOUTH. + +Dec. 31. 7a.m. 29.88 758 59 - - 7 Wind cold and dusty. Sky + perfectly clear. A few + light mist-clouds on + mountain-wall. + + Noon. 29.94 760 75 73 58 6 Wind still. Sun much + warmer. + + 3p.m. 29.90 - 74 71 58 3 Wind cool; some dust. + +Clouds about sunset sailing out of Suez Gulf, forming archipelago of sky +islets. Dark bank to south. Minimum thermometer at night = 42 degrees. + +AT SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT OPEN NORTH AND SOUTH (about 100 feet +above sea-level). + +Jan. 1. 7a.m. 29.90 759 53 50 45 10 Clear, fine, quite + still. Nice breeze began + about nine a.m. + + Noon. 29.97 - 71 69 57 4 Cold. North wind high. + Light clouds to west; + the rest clear. + + 3p.m. 29.94 760 73 72 61 4 Clouds to west from Suez + sea. + +High wind fell before midnight. Cold--sat in tent. Flies troublesome +everywhere. Minimum at night, 42-43 degrees. + +AT WADY SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT. + +Jan 2. 7a.m. 29.98 761 53 - - 10 + + 3p.m. 30.00 762 76 72 58 3 Cool breeze from north. + No signs of clouds. Sun + hot and air cool. + +Evening no wind, no clouds. At night high cold wind from east, seems to pierce +clothes. Lasted till morning and sun well up. Minimum thermometer, No. 1 = 45 +degrees; No. 2 = 46 degrees. + +Jan. 3. 7a.m. 29.92 760 58 57 47 3 Dawn comfortless. Cold. + Fire in tent. Sand + blowing. Air highly + electrical. + + Noon. 29.90 762 77 76 61 2 Wind still. Hot sun. + + 3p.m. 29.91 759 76 74 58 4 Hot sun. Gentle breeze. + Warm in tent. + +Night very cold. Minimum thermometers, No. 1 = 40 degrees; No. 2 = 41 degrees. + +Jan. 4. " 29.83 - 52 50 - 5 + + Noon. 29.93 760 81 80 60 3 Decidedly hot. No + breeze. + + 3p.m. 29.90 - 78 75 63 0 Very hot and still. + +In evening few fleecy clouds to south-west. Appearance of Azyab. Minimum +thermometers at night, No. 1 = 36 degrees; No. 2 = 38 degrees. + +AT WADY SHARMÁ. + +Jan. 5. 7a.m. 29.90 - 48 45 43 6 Pink clouds south-west + and south-east. Cirri + everywhere. + + Noon. 29.87 761 79 79 67 3 Hot and still. Clear; + few cirri. + + 3p.m. 29.96 760 74 71 60 0 Cool wind. Cold in + shade. Cirri to south, + at times over the sun. + +Very cold at night. Saw new moon; set in fire. Planets veiled in mist. Moon +Káim (points upwards = *[figure]). + +Jan. 6. 7.20a.m. 29.94 760 53 51 46 8 Still, clear. Light + breeze about 10.30 a.m. + + Noon. 29.80 761 82 - - 4 + + 4p.m. 29.96 761 76 - - 3 Clear and hot. Sunset, + red cirri. Water very + cold. Moon clear. + +Jan. 7 " 29.98 758 52 - - 18 At Sharmá. Cool and raw. + Few clouds to south and + south-west. + + Noon. 30.08 764 78 - - 26 At 'Aynúnah, in big + tent. Fresh wind from + north. Air much damper; + more pleasant. + +AT 'AYNÚNAH. + +Jan. 8. 7a.m. 30.11 763 55 - - 22 Morning still--windless + Breath from east. Warm + and pleasant. + + Noon. 30.02 767 77 74 61 13 Quite clear and dry. + Gusts of wind. Flies + very bad, even in the + waste. + + 3p.m. 30.15 767 77 76 63 7 + +Cold high wind at night. + +LEFT 'AYNÚNAH. + +Jan. 9. 7a.m. 30.04 - 63 - - 10 Outside tent. Light + clouds everywhere at + dawn. Morning warm and + close. + + Noon. 29.91 759 80 - - 48 At El-'Usaylah. Sky + covered with clouds. Sun + coming out. + + 4p.m. 29.87 758 53 - - 23 In tent at El-'Usaylah. + No wind. + +Cool pleasant night. Rain in Mount Sinai(?). + +Jan. 10. 6.45a.m. 29.85 - 56 - - 15 Observations in open. + Cold north wind. Clear + and cirri. + + 3p.m. 29.30 745 77 - - 1 At Magháir Shúayb, under + a tree. + +Night cold. High wind; shook the tents. + +AT MAGHÁIR SHÚAYB. + +Jan. 11. 7a.m. 29.37 747 60 - - 20 In open, on box. + + Noon. 29.40 748 82 - - 8 In tent. + + 3p.m. 29.38 747 84 - - -4 Still. Air hot. + +As a rule, at Magháir Shúayb we had land-breezes; cold from north and east. +Seabreezes during day, after noon. + +Jan. 12. 7a.m. 29.35 746 59 - - 3 In tent. Cool. Cirri. At + two a.m. cool fresh wind + from north. + + Noon. 29.46 747 83 - - -5 In tent. Hot sun. Light + clouds. + + 3p.m 29.30 746 83 81 64 -9 In tent. No sun, no + wind. Thin clouds. + +Night warm; wind towards morning. Mosquitoes in tamarisks of Wady. Minimum +thermometer, 52 degrees. + +Jan. 13. 7a.m. 29.38 745 65 - - -4 Outside tent, on box. + Cloudy; little wind. elt + warm. Sun came out + strong at ten a.m. + + Noon. 29.27 744 87 87 67 -9 In big tent. Heat like + summer. Flies + troublesome, travel on + our backs. + + 3p.m. 29.20 743 85 85 65 -15 Very hot. Thin clouds. + Sea-breeze. + +Very hot and sultry weather: Arabs say portends rain. Wind (generally) from +north in morning; afternoon from sea. + +Jan. 14. 7a.m. 29.01 740 63 63 55 0 In tent. Land-breeze set + in. Expected heavy rain, + and pitched camp higher + up. + + 2.30p.m. 29.15 - 81-1/279 68 0 Taken by Mr. Clarke. + +Rain began 2.30 a.m. (Jan. 15), small drops, then heavy, lull, and again +heavy; ended about 4.30 a.m. A little wind from south-west rose after rain. + +The last rain was on December 7-10, 1877; violent storms accompanied it. + +Jan. 15. " 29.00 - 71-1/270 66 30 By Mr. Clarke at Magháir + Shúayb. Sky all covered + ; little clear to west. + Mist all over north. + Things feel damp. + + Noon. 29.06 737 76 73 65 30 All cloudy. After rain, + sultry heat of noon + quite disappeared. + + 3p.m. 29.06 738 75 73 65 25 Still cloudy. Cool. + +Cold nights and mornings. + +Jan. 16. 7a.m. 29.20 - 48 45 42 18 No rain. Cold. Little + wind. Cloudy. No wind. + + Noon. 29.05 - 69 65 54 3 Sun hot. Cool breeze + from north as usual. No + clouds. + + 3p.m. 29.25 - 69 65 52 12 + +Night fine and clear. Stars and moon very bright. + +Jan. 17. 7a.m. 29.30 - 42 42 39 17 Clear morning. Very + cold. Land breeze. + + Noon. 29.36 745 69 66 54 18 Fine stiff breeze from + north-east. + + 3p.m. 29.34 745 73 70 59 16 Fine breeze falling. + +Fine clear night, moon nearly full. No clouds. Not cold. Cool at night and +towards morning. Wind rose about four a.m. + +Jan. 18. 7.30a.m. 29.28 745 55 55 50 26 In tent. Cool, clear. + Gentle land-wind. + + Noon. 29.30 - 79 79 63 16 Same weather. + + 3p.m. 29.25 - 81 79 62 8 Night cool. Hardly any + wind. + +Jan. 19. 7a.m. 29.15 - 53 52 45 16 In tent. Cold wind from + north. + + Noon. 29.17 - 81 79 63 9 Sun hot. Cool breeze + from north. Sky clear. + + 3p.m. 29.15 - 80 77 60 5 + +Remarkably warm pleasant night. + +Jan. 20. 7a.m. 29.05 - 50 48 45 19 In tent. No wind. Air + sharp. + + Noon. 29.10 - 79 75 63 12 Light wind (south-west). + Sun hot. Sky clear. + + 3p.m. 29.10 - 73 73 60 8 Cool and pleasant. + +Curious moonrise. Thin clouds like volcanic smoke, separated into cirri like +sheep-skin: all said sign of heat. Night still and warm. Few stratified clouds +to west. + +Jan. 21. 8a.m. 29.13 740 56 54 50 20 In tent. Cold raw wind + (El-Ayli) from north- + east. High clouds. Worse + near Gulf. + + Noon. 29.20 743 68 66 55 16 High cold wind, + continuous. Bright sun. + Sky intensely blue and + clear. + + 4.15p.m. 29.22 744 66 65 53 8 Cool. High wind. + +Strong wind at night; fell about midnight; gusts at times. Very cold. Bad +weather at Sharm Yahárr. Fortuna ("strong wind") began January 21st, ended +January 23rd: the next gale was on night of January 28th. As a rule, the +people say; black clouds show that the wind will increase; light clouds the +contrary. + +Jan. 22. 7a.m. 29.32 745 50 49 45 15 Cold and cloudy. El-Ayli + continues. + + Noon. 29.36 748 66 62 52 11 High cold north-easter + rose about 11.30. Sun + warm. Air cold. + +Heavy purple clouds to north and west. Night still; occasional gusts. Eight +p.m. quite still. Mukhbir delayed by bad weather. + +Jan. 23. 7.20a.m. 29.39 748 50 50 45 19 Gusts and calm. Nimbi to + west. High north wind + set in. + + Noon. 29.40 747 66 64 54 14 Cold in shade, hot in + sun. High wind. + + 4p.m. - - 66 65 52 9 Wind still high. Dust. + +Night alternately gusty and still. Warm. Mukhbir steamed back to her +anchorage, Sharm Yáhárr. + +Jan 24. 7a.m. 29.29 745 55 52 47 15 Gentle breeze from + north. No clouds--sign + of no wind. + + 1.30p.m. - - 83 78 68 10 The normal hot, + windless, cloudless day. + + 3p.m. - - 78 74 62 7 Pleasant sea-breeze. Sun + hot; air coolish. + +Night warm and pleasant. + +MAGHáIR SHÚAYB TO MAKNÁ (March). + +Jan. 25. 7a.m. 29.30 - 61 - - 15 On box. Fine, and + perfectly clear. + + Noon. 29.45 - 78 - - - On road to Wady Makná, + riding mule. Sea-breeze + about noon, strong. + Shortly after noon heavy + clouds (from north and + west) hid the sun. + + 3p.m. 30.06 - 71 - - 23 Arrived at Makná, on + box. + +Warm pleasant night. Appearance of rain. Wind from north. Moon clouded. + +AT MAKNÁ. + +Land and sea breezes regular. Morning and evening cool. Noon hot. Evaporation +immense. Healthy near shore; feverish up the valley. Damp air from +neighbourhood of Mount Sinai. + +Jan. 26. 7a.m. 30.02 - 68 - - 21 Cloudy. Heavy white + waves on water. Wind + west; dangerous for + ships. + + 12.30p.m.30.07 - 80 77 62 21 Sun hot; sky clear. + Light fleecy clouds on + Sinai. + + 3.30p.m. 30.04 743 82 80 70 18 Air and sun hot. Clear. + Sea-breeze. No gale. + +Rain probably during the day in Sinai. Muttali, or "fort," of Makná showed +aneroid 760 (29). + +Jan. 27. 7a.m. 30.02 - 60 59 55 35 In tent. Fine clear; + nice land-breeze. Rush + of wind at two a.m. Wind + at four a.m. Loud noise + of reef. + + 1.30p.m. 30.04 - 80 76 68 28 In big tent, opening to + south. Quite clear and + bright. No clouds. + Slight sea-breeze. + + 3p.m. 30.02 - 80 79 70 26 Hot and still. + +Night glorious. No wind. Only sigh and sound of reef. + +Jan. 28. 7a.m. 29.98 - 58 58 53 30 Perfectly still and + clear. Light land- + breeze. + + 12.45p.m.30.00 - 80 78 66 20 Weather breaking. Clouds + forming everywhere. High + horizontal cirri. North + wind, whistling over + country. + + 3p.m. 29.98 - 80 79 67 20 Packed up wet and dry + bulbs. + +At sunset high streaky cirri of red colour: all said wind. Same as at Magháir +Shúayb (January 21-23). At eleven p.m. El-Ayli (north wind from 'Akabat- +Aylah?) came down upon us with a rush. Gravel like drops of rain. Tents at +once on the ground. Sky still clear--stars shining. + +Jan. 29. 7.15a.m.30.02 - 62 - - 19 In tent-hut. Wind + violent. Cold and raw + between moonrise and + sunrise. + + Noon. 30.04 - 81 - - 13 In tent-hut. Wind (El- + Ayli) gusty and violent. + Sky quite clear. + +They say this gale denotes end of Zamharir ("great cold"). Wind fell about +three p.m. Mild at sunset. Wind then increased, and became very violent at +night (l0-11 p.m.); seems to beat down from above. Summit of quartz-hills, 2 +obs. = 29.40 + +Jan. 30 7a.m. 30.06 - 62 - - 19 In tent-hut. Mountains + perfectly clear. Fleecy + clouds to north and + south, sailing from west + to east. + + 3p.m. 30.06 - 72 - - 15 Clear and fine. Wind + falling. + +Wind fell during afternoon and evening, but rose again at night; was at its +worst about eleven p.m. + +Jan. 31. 7a.m. 30.06 - 67 - - 22 In tent-but. Wind worse; + signs of blowing + everywhere. Light clouds + north and south. Mottled + clouds (cirri, mackerel- + back). Gusts violent + after sunrise. + + Noon. 30.08 - 73 - - 19 In cabin on board + Mukhbir. Wind violent. + Sky clear. White clouds, + as yet wind increasing. + Sand and dust but + mountains clear. + + 3p.m. 30.09 - 78 - - 22 On board Mukhbir. Wind + violent. Sky covered + with grey clouds. + +At sunset, gleams to west and round horizon; heavy to north. Hoped for rain, +but none came. Fires alight all night. Very bad night; perhaps the worst yet +seen. Chain dragging. At nine p.m. sky clear, but wind worse. + +AT MAKNÁ, ON BOARD "MUKHBIR." + +Feb. 1. 7a.m. 30.08 - 70 - - 21 Wind worse than ever. + Dark cirri to south. + Mountains clear on all + sides. + + Noon. 30.06 - 74 70 63 21 Wind very bad, turning + to east (?). Cirri + everywere: to west + formed ascending rays + like sun, extending to + zenith; to east were + crosses and lozenges. + + 3p.m 30.04 - - 70 65 - Wind still bad. White + clouds have thickened to + south, and thinned to + north. Bases of + mountains blurred (by + dust?); summits clear. + +At sunset wind lighter. Dark clouds to south, going westward from Suez. Cirri +overhead, presently disappeared; also about the horizon. At night fine +zodiacal light. Wind increased. Observations in main cabin throughout voyage. + +Feb. 2. 7a.m. 30.00 - 69 70 65 22 Perfectly clear. Wind + worse. + + Noon. 30.00 - 78 - - 21 Clear sky; only cloud, + thin white strata to + north. + + 3p.m. 29.04 - 75 73 63 19 No clouds. Wind milder. + Barometer falling (sign + of wind ceasing?). Wind + getting warmer, and + bending east. + +Wind less in evening, and warmer; ceased about midnight; lasted from eleven +p.m., January 28, to midnight, February 2 = five days and five nights. +Zodiacal light. + +Feb. 3. 7a.m. 29.93 - 56 65 56 20 On deck (wet and dry + bulbs in main cabin). + Fresh breeze from east. + Fleecy clouds south and + east. + + Noon. 29.96 - 74 - - 25 On deck. Fine breeze + from north. + +In evening cirri to west and east. Black dots in regular lines. Night at Minat +Jinái. Very fine and clear; young moon and Venus. Deadly still. Zodiacal light +seen every night in the 'Akabah Gulf: not outside it. + +Feb. 4. 7a.m. 29.92 - 74 70 67 24 En route to Nuwaybi', + along Sinai shore. + Morning grey; light + clouds everywhere. Dull + brassy sunrise. Water + dark. Wind south, felt + very damp. Sinai hills + clouded over: cirri + strata high up; nimbi in + fragments below. + + Noon. 29.86 - 74 73 68 28 Under awning on board; + going north. Sickly sun. + Cirri to east. + + 3p.m. 29.80 - 75 73 66 26 Main cabin South wind + strong, increased after + noon. Clear horizon + then. Sea foaming: wind + became very strong, and + raised water about + sunset, then fell. + +A regular day of south wind, blasts, mists, and gusts; calmed down in evening. +Quiet night. All day cirri and strata high up from west. Wásit sand forming +cloud. + +Feb. 5. 7a.m. 30.00 - 72 68 60 9 En route to Kaláh + (Jezirat Faráun of + maps), in main cabin. + Wind north. Clouds on + hill-tops and to north-- + effects of yesterday. + East mountains misty; + west clear. Mottle of + clouds. + + Noon. 29.94 - 73 70 61 7 On deck, steaming north. + Dry and wet bulbs in + main cabin. Clouds-- + light cumuli to north, + east, and west; south + clear. Wind north, + light. + + 3p.m. 29.97 - 75 70 59 19 In main cabin off island + El-Kaláh. Violent gusts + from west, down valleys- + -deflection of south + wind, lasted only few + minutes. Cloudy and + clear. + +Night clear. Violent gusts from south, lasting a few minutes, then still. + +ON BOARD "MUKHBIR," OFF ISLAND EL-KALÁH. + +Feb. 6. 7a.m. 30.12 - 70 66 59 15 In main cabin. A regular + raw and gloomy English + morning. Clouds + everywhere--drops of + rain. Wind south, + deflected west. Gusts at + times. All felt damp and + uncomfortable. + + Noon. 30.10 - 70 65 59 26 In main cabin. Sky all + covered with clouds. + Wind from north, gusty. + Barometer rising. + + 3p.m. 30.12 - 66 68 60 21 In main cabin. Sky + covered; gleams of sun. + Clear to south. Wind + north, mild. + +A few drops of rain morning and evening. Pleasant quiet night. + +Feb. 7. 6a.m. 30.13 - - 62 57 19 In main cabin. Still; + fresh air; no wind. + Heavy clouds from west, + covering east-west + mountains. West mottled; + north and south clear. + + 3p.m. 30.10 - 71 66 62 25 In main cabin. Cool + breeze. Hot sun. Cloudy + and clear. + +Drops of rain at sunset. Wind west. Heavy rain twice at night; after midnight +wetted deck. Rain at 'Akabah from west, with clouds and winds. + +FROM EL-'AKABAIT, GOING SOUTH. + +Rise of tide off El-'Akabah town, one foot. + +Feb. 8. 7a.m. 30.20 - 56 63 61 3 On deck. Dry and wet + bulbs in main cabin. At + sunrise heavy purple + clouds drifting over + plain, covering hills on + both sides. Cold, raw, + wet wind. Rain on Sinai + to north-west and south- + west. Saw rainbow. Wind + gradually turning to + east (favourable). Play + of light and shade over + plains and hills. + + Noon. 30.15 - 65 64 57 22 In main cabin. Glorious + day. Blue sky; bluer + sea. Strong breeze. + Cloudy and clear. + + 3p.m. 30.16 - 67 65 58 25 In main cabin. After + noon wind gradually + fell, and sky cleared; + became much warmer. + Steamer (five and a half + knots) beat the sailing + tender. North perfectly + clear; south and east, + fleecy clouds. Sun clear + and warm. + +At sunset red cirri. Wind increased greatly. Waves following us, high and +hollow. Bad night. Wind and water high. At midnight(?), rode with head to +gale. February 9th, four a.m., turned south. Six a.m. stood for Makná (right +angles, and nearly "turned turtle"). + +ON BOARD "MUKHBIR." + +Feb. 9. 7a.m. 30.22 - - 64 26 26 In main cabin, off Sharm + Dabbah. Sky quite clear. + North wind colder than + ever, yet we are going + south. Beginning of + dangerous gale which + lasted till February + 13th. Ugly hollow sea. + + 1p.m. 30.15 - - 66 58 28 In main cabin. Out of + 'Akabah Gulf. Passed + into a summer sea. Under + lee of Tirán. On deck 63 + degrees (F.). + + 3p.m. 30.11 - - 69 59 27 In main cabin, rounding + south of Jezirat Tirán. + Sky all clear, except + wind cirri over 'Akabah + Gulf and to west. + +At nine p.m. halo round moon, and far from it--bad sign! Before midnight gusts +began. Increased at one a.m. (February 10). At four a.m. very violent north +wind from El-'Akabah. + +Feb. 10 7a.m. 30.07 - - 69 65 30 In cabin of Mukhbir, + south of Tirán. Water + ruffled. Clouds + everywhere. Rain on the + coast. Felt raw. Mottled + sky. + + Noon. 30.03 - - 72 64 38 In cabin at Tirán. Sun + out at nine a.m. Clouds + and clear. Windy sky. + Cirri to west and north- + west. Dark clouds to + leeward. + + 3p.m. 29.94 - - 74 65 25 In cabin at Tirán. Rain- + storm to south-west. + Wind north. Sky cloudy + and clear. Cool breeze, + not high. + +At four p.m. a few large drops fell. Heavy rain at El-'Akabah and on east +coast. Sand-veil over Sinaitic shore. Six p.m., wind gusty. Rain-clouds all +over coast. Wind becoming warm. At 1.15 a.m. (February 11), terrible rush and +fall of rain. Wind westing. Mild at first. Five a.m., hard Gharbi, threatening +Azyab. All mist--could hardly see the shore. + +Feb. 11. 7a.m. 29.82 - - 71 67 35 To windward of Tirán. + Howling west wind. Sun + like pale cheese. + Aneroid falling. After + seven a.m. the storm + broke, and we narrowly + escaped a wreck in two + places, Tirán and + Sináfir. Crisis of gale. + + Noon. 29.80 - - 70 60 30 In Sináfir port, main + cabin. Wind west, + bending to south on + falling. + + 3p.m. 28.20 - - 72 65 24 In main cabin. Mist and + sand. English sun. Wind + west and warm. Sea green + and breaking. + +At five p.m. the sand-mist began to clear off. Wind died away, then turned +north and north-north-east. Light scud over moon, going slowly. Patches of +blue, and stars. Barometer rising fast. Perfectly still night till midnight, +when it began to blow, about the setting of the moon. At Suez, during the +gale, red dust prevented ships seeing one another; and at Cairo trees were +uprooted. + +AT SINÁFIR ISLAND. + +Feb. 12 " 30.13 - - 68 62 31 In main cabin. At 3.30 + a.m. a violent Ayli, + like that of El-'Akabah, + began to blow. Gusts and + shivering water. Swept + off all sand-fog. + + Noon. 30.17 - - 73 64 27 In main cabin. Howling + wind. Sea less, because + of ebb. Breeze fresh. + Sky clear to south; few + white clouds to north- + east and west. Sun + bright and warm. + + 3p.m. 30.14 - - 75 65 24 In cabin. Wind violent + as ever, and cold from + north. + +During the night the wind blew from all possible directions; north-east, and +at one time due west. + +LEFT SINÁFIR FOR SOUTH. + +Feb. 13. " 30.18 - - 66 60 36 In main cabin. Howling + north wind till four + a.m., then milder. + Hardly a speck of cloud. + Fresh cool air from + north. Sea very blue. + All sail set. Mist- + clouds on tallest peaks + of coast-range. Wind + diminished as we went + south. Cirri everywhere, + zenith and on horizon. + + Noon. 30.12 - - 69 59 26 On deck. Soft pleasant + air; before cold and + hard. Influence of + El'Akabah. Thermometer + on deck 69 degrees (F.). + + 3p.m 30.10 - - 71 62 20 On board. Sky milky + everywhere with cirri. + Wind north-west, going + west. + +Red sunset. Distant halo round moon--cleared off soon (a good sign), and not +well marked. Light westerly gale (No. 2). + +AT SHARM YÁHÁRR. + +Feb. 14. 7a.m. 30.06 - - 64 58 22 In cabin (open). + Splendid morning. Wind + west, set in hard before + noon. Milk-and-water + sky. Should have been + kept at Sináfir. + + Noon. 30.04 - - 71 60 20 West wind increased. Sky + clear; but SHÁRR + Mountains cloudy-- + condensing moisture. + + 3p.m. 30.02 - - 71 60 20 In cabin. North-west + wind strong. Moved ship. + Heavy black clouds on + mountains. + +ON BOARD "MUKHBIR" AT SHARM YÁHÁRR. + +Feb 15. " 30.10 - - 66 58 30 In cabin. + + Noon. 30.13 - 72 - - 35 In cabin. + + 3p.m. 30.14 - 75 - - 26 On deck. Clouds above + the mountains. + +Cold north-west breeze at five p.m. Sea high. Aneroid observations at Sulphur +Mountain--foot, 30.14; top, 29.90; difference .24 = 250 feet. + +Feb. 16. 7.30a.m. 30.23 - - 63 55 20 In cabin. Aneroid + unusually high. Clear + and cloudy at mountains. + Cool air and light + breeze. + + 12.50p.m. 30.23- - 64 55 20 Cool. Wind north. In + cabin. + + 3p.m. 30.20 - - 66 56 18 In cabin. Cool. No + clouds. + +Splendid night. Not a sign of cloud. Cool. White streak on the water (milky +sea, like that of Bombay, caused by fish?). Finest weather yet seen. + +ON BOARD "MUKHBIR." + +Feb. 17. 6a.m. 30.17 - 66 - - 15 In cabin. Cool, clear, + splendid. Forenoon warm + and still. Sea glassy. + + Noon. 30.16 - 74 - - 20 In cabin. Sea-breeze + came up strong at eleven + a.m. + + 3p.m. 30.13 - - - - 23 In cabin. Sky clouded + all the afternoon--did + not see the sun. Moon + veiled--not a nice look. + +Night very cold (shivery). Wind Barri ("land-breeze"). + +IN MESS-TENT, OPEN TO EAST. + +Feb. 18. 6.30a.m. 30.00 - 61 - - 14 Cold and clear. Land- + breeze. + + Noon. 30.04 - 78 - - 33 Sea-breeze setting; + land-breeze stopped. Sky + perfectly clear. Sun + hot. No end of flies. + + 3p.m. 30.04 - 78 - - 22 Fierce and violent west + wind--a Gharbi, or + exaggerated sea-breeze? + Sky quite clear. + +Night quite still. Cold wind stopped at nine p.m. rather suddenly. + + + + + +OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING SECOND MARCH TO THE HIMSÁ PLATEAU, SOUTH-EASTERN +MIDIAN, BETWEEN FEBRUARY 19 AND MARCH 8, 1878. + + + +The distance traversed comprised 222-1/4 statute miles, mostly through +unexplored country. + +On return compared aneroids:-- +French .............................. 763 millimetres. +My Casella .......................... 762 " + +Difference .......................... .001 " + +Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Hygr. Remarks. + Inches. (deg.)(deg.) + +Feb. 19. 6.20a.m. 30.07 65 23 In big tent at El-Muwaylah. Cool land- + breeze. Sky quite clear. + + Noon. 29.82 74 23 At Wady Surr, under tree in sea-breeze. + Clear sky, few white clouds. Cold land- + breeze in Wady Surr at ten a.m.; cold sea- + breeze at eleven a.m. + + 3.40p.m. 29.60 76 20 At Safh Wady Malayh (Malih), in big tent. + Feels as if high up. + +Night perfectly still, except a gust about midnight. + +Feb. 20. 6.25a.m. 29.53 60 21 In big tent at Safh Wady Malayh. Clear and + fine. + + 11.20a.m.29.40 73 43 Under tree at base of western Gháts. Fine + cool sea-breeze. + + 3p.m. 29.44 78 17 At Sayl Wady el-Jimm ("water-gathering"). + Hot sun. Cold sea-breeze. + +Night cold, with land-breeze. + +Feb. 21. 6.15a.m. 29.38 64 7 In big tent at Sayl Wady el-Jimm. Clouds + to north and east; air damp. High wind and + clouds. + + 12.45p.m.28.82 71 25 On march up Wady Sadr, under tree. Cold + sea-breeze. Sky quite clear; sun warm. + Awful east winds down these Wadys form the + Goz or sand-heaps. + + 3.30p.m. 28.86 76 7 In small tent at El-Nagwah, in Wady Sadr. + Sun hot; breeze cold. + +Night cold, but not so cold as we expected. + +Feb. 22. 6a.m. 28.86 56 8 In big tent at El-Nagwah. + + 11.50a.m.25.40 65 4 Under tree in Wady Sadr; say, 1600 feet + high. White clouds. West wind (sea-breeze + deflected to north) blowing. Here cold + comes from wind. + + 3p.m. 27.80 74 3 In big tent at Amwáh el-Rikáb, Wady Sadr. + +At four p.m. cold and clouds; cumuli and cirri. West wind deflected to north. +At five p.m. thermometer in tent 66 degrees. Fire in tent. Night cold, clear, +and still. A few gusts about midnight. + +AT HEAD OF WADY SADR. + +Feb. 23. 6.30a.m. 27.80 53 5 In big tent foot of Gháts. Weather lovely- + -clear, fine, and cold. At eight a.m. sun + warm, then cold wind. + + 1.30p.m. 26.88 72 5 In big tent. Cold easterly gale. + + 4p.m. 26.90 65 2 In small tent, same place. + +Violent wind at midnight. Cold; thermometer 38 degrees. + +Feb. 24. 6a.m. 26.95 48 0 At head of Wady Sadr. + + 26.15 45 0 To summit of Khuraytat el-Jils (Pass). + Above the Pass, aneroid 26.25; below, + 26.70: difference, .55 = 450 feet. Walked + down in twenty-six minutes. + + 11.30a.m.26.18 56 0 In the open, under shade. Perfectly clear + of clouds. Sun hot. + + 3p.m. 26.26 66 -2 In big tent on Hismá plateau (short + descent to camping-ground). Air clear; sun + hot. + +Very cold when sun sets. Gusts from east at night. + +ON HIMSÁ PLATEAU. + +Feb. 25. 6.30a.m. 26.30 42 3 In big tent. + + 12.30p.m.27.84 74 12 At foot of Khuraytat el-Jils. Still, no + wind; no clouds. + + 3.30p.m. 27.83 78 17 No wind; no clouds. + +Night splendidly clear and still. Felt warm. + +Feb. 26. 6a.m. 27.72 64 2 In big tent on Hismá plateau. Glorious + orange-coloured dawn. Mild north wind. + Moon in last quarter. At eight a.m. good + breeze from north; at eleven a.m. cool and + pleasant breeze from east. + + Noon. 28.00 70 -8 On march in Shafah Mountains. Hot sun. + Cold wind. + + 3p.m. 28.30 85 -4 Camp Majrá el-Ruways. In small tent. + Strong west breeze in gusts. + +Night glorious at foot of the two Passes. + +Feb. 27. 6a.m. 28.10 65 -4 On ground outside tent at Majrá el-Ruways. + Sky overhead quite clear; a few flecks to + south, low clouds to east. At 8.30 a.m. + wind south. Sun at first hot; then sky + cloudy. + + 11.45a.m.28.48 80 3 At El-Rahabah, head of Wady Dámah, under + tree. Fine sea-breeze. High white strata + to north-east and south. No clouds + elsewhere. + + 5p.m. 28.56 76 -5 Under thorn-tree at Wady Dámah. Fleeting + cirro-cumuli. + +Night very cold. Not a sign of dew till we returned on board Mukhbir. + +Feb. 28. 6a.m. 28.50 44 -5 At Wady Dámah, on box in open. Clouds and + sea-breeze at 8.45 a.m. + + 1p.m. 28.29 70 19 Under tree at Shuwák ruin. Thermometer in + sun, 82 degrees. Bits of cumuli from + south. At two p.m. furious wind and dust + (sand-devils) scouring up valley from + south, also deflected to west by Pass + gorge. "Sand-devils" in Wadys Surr, Sadr, + Dámah, Shuwák, and Salmá. + + 3p.m. 28.19 71 16 In big tent. + +A few gusts during early part of night; the rest very still. Cold and clear. + +AT SHUWÁK RUIN. +Mar. 1. 6.45a.m. 25.30 46 10 Very cold; hands chilled. Land-breeze at + eight a.m. At barrage (dam), aneroid + 28.36. + + Noon. 28.37 76 17 In small tent. Noon hot. Wind gusty--not + regular and strong as yesterday. + + 3p.m. 28.34 77 6 In small tent. Sky clear; air still and + sultry. + +Mar. 2. 6a.m. 28.30 58 11 In big tent at Shuwák. Air still. Clouds + to east. Afterwards sky mottled, windy + striae. At seven a.m. rainbow without + rain; thin cloud north of sun; + perpendicular streak, brilliant enough: + lasted twenty minutes. + + 9a.m. 28.75 66 - At Shaghab ruin. Sea-breeze at eleven a.m. + Clear and cool. Day slightly cloudy; sun + partly hidden. + + 3p.m. 28.60 86 15 In big tent at Majrá el-Wághir. Mild sea- + breeze. Hot sun. High clouds. + +Night windless, except few occasional gusts. Stars veiled. Grand zodiacal +light (now the regular thing). Cool and pleasant. + +Mar. 3. 6a.m. 28.55 66 14 At Majrá el-Wághir, outside tent. Sky + cloudy; mist to north, "mackerel's back" + to east. Sea-breeze at 9.30 a.m. in Wady + Dámah. + + Noon. 29.13 75 26 Under tree in Wady Dámah. Cool wind from + south-west. A few clouds, getting + gradually darker to west and south-west. + + 4p.m. 29.20 78 15 At El-Kutayyifah (camp) under a tree. Cool + south-west wind. + + 6a.m. 29.30 63 16 Cold north wind. Sea-breeze at nine a.m, + In big tent at El-Kutayyifab. + +Mar. 4. 11.30a.m. 29.33 68 11 In shade of rock, Umm ámil. + + 4p.m. 29.63 80 10 In small tent at Má el-Badi'h, Wady Salmá. + Cold, stiff gale: dust-laden sea-breeze up + the ugly gorge. + + 5.45a.m. 29.50 60 13 At Má el-Badi'h, on box in open air. Air + clear; thin threads to south. + +Mar. 5. 12.30p.m. 30.06 84 -3 At Zibá, in big tent, open east and west, + fronting the bay. + + 2.45p.m. 30.00 82 4 At Zibá, in small tent. + +AT ZIBÁ, IN CAMP (our second halt). + +Mar. 6. 6a.m. 29.92 61 15 In big tent. Rather heavy clouds to east + and elsewhere. Sea-breeze began at ten + a.m. + + Noon. 30.04 86 10 In big tent. Air dull and heavy. "Rain- + sun." + + 3.45p.m. 30.00 81 3 Sky quite clear. + +Storm at sunset. Heavy clouds rising over arch from west to north: all said +meant wind. At seven p.m. violent gusty gale; nearly blew down tents. Rushing +and furious rain from north-west. Gusts lasted long. Fell about eleven p.m. +Rose again very violently at midnight; then blew itself out. Followed by cold +air. Rain lasted about one hour; damped the ground, and left deep puddles in +the rock-hollows. +Never had thunder and lightning in Midian. + +Mar. 7. 6a.m. 31.12 58 15 At Zibá, on box. Cold and clear. A few + clouds to west. + + 11.30a.m.29.96 74 19 At Jebel el Ghál, in shade in the open. + Fine west wind. + +Night and morning cold. On summit of Jebel el-Ghál, aneroid 29.75. + +Mar. 8. 6a.m. 30.04 51 11 At Máyat el-Ghál (camp), on box. + +March 8th is the 30th (last day of) Imshir (February), 1094. +March 9th is the 1st of Barmáhát (March). See Chap. I. p. 22. +In the early days of Barmáhát they expect the Husum or violent wind which +destroyed the tribe of Ad. +After seven nights and eight days begins the Bard el-Agúz, or "old man's +cold." +On Barmáhát 12 (March 20) is the Intikál el-Shams, or "vernal equinox;" after +which the weather becomes warmer. + + + + + +OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD "MUKHBIR" IN SHARM YÁHÁRR, BETWEEN MARCH 8 AND +MARCH 12, 1878. + + + +Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hygr. Remarks. + Inches. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.) + +Mar. 8. 12.40p.m.30.08 74 - - 18 Main cabin, Mukhbir. + +Mar. 9. 7a.m. 30.10 20 69 62 - In cabin. + + 12.30p.m.30.13 73 72 64 - Quite clear. Fresh sea-breeze. + + 3p.m. 30.11 75 74 64 - Clouds white and streaky + everywhere. + +In the evening clouds on hills and mountains, especially the SHÁRR; elsewhere +clear. Red sunset, grand. At night dew heavy on board Mukhbir; gunwales wet in +morning. Moon with kind of half halo round her. Night very hot--sign of coming +storm. + +At noon compared ship's (Mukhbir) +mercurial barometer ......................... 773 millimetres. +With my aneroid by Casella .................. 765 millimetres. +And (Mr. Duguid's) aneroide ................. 765 millimetres. +Difference .................................. -008 millimetres. +On December 19, 1877, ship's difference ..... +007 millimetres. +Difference .................................. +001 millimetres. + +Mar. 10. 6.30p.m. 30.12 73 69 61 - In cabin. Clouds on SHÁRR like + flights of birds, low-lying + banks to south. Morning + slightly muggy: no breeze. + + Noon. 30.12 76 75 60 - In cabin. Gentle sea-breeze. + Sky quite clear. + + 3p.m. 30.11 76 76 66 - Cool, pleasant sea-breeze. + +Fine night, pleasant and cool. + +Mar. 11. 6a.m. 30.10 73 68 65 - In cabin. Splendid morning. + + Noon. 30.10 - 80 64 - In cabin. Glorious day; sea- + breeze cool and fresh. + + 3.30p.m. 30.05 78 77 65 - In cabin. Sea-breeze lively + and strong. + +Mar. 12. 7a.m. 30.04 - 67 61 - In cabin. Warmish. Splendid + sunrise on SHÁRR; cold to + north, warmer tints in centre, + and glowing red-yellow flush + to south. + + 3p.m. 30.03 78 77 70 - In cabin. Fine cool sea- + breeze. + +Tides high and low (March) pier shows difference of three feet in rise, about +the midlength of Sharm Yáhárr. + + + + + +OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING EXCURSION (SECOND MARCH) ON +AND AROUND THE SHÁRR MOUNTAIN, BETWEEN WEDNESDAY, +MARCH 18, AND MONDAY, MARCH 18, 1878. + + + +The distance traversed comprised 59 miles. + +On return compared aneroids:-- +French (left on board Mukhbir) .... 758 millimetres. +My Casella ........................ 756 " +Difference ........................ 002 " + +Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Hygr. Remarks. + Inches. (deg.)(deg.) + +Mar. 13. 6.20a.m. 29.96 66 23 On deck of Mukhbir. Cool land-breeze; hot + at nine a.m. Sea-breeze at 10.45. At Wady + Sanawiyyah aneroid 29.60. + + 3p.m. 29.26 82 13 Under tree (acacia, but shady). Grand sea- + breeze from one to three p.m. + +Warm night under the SHÁRR, stones retaining heat. Moon misty. Very heavy dew, +like rain; wetted boxes; saw for the first time inland. Will last for some +three months, and must greatly assist vegetation. + +Mar. 14. 6a.m. 29.30 68 28 In big tent. All the sky clouded over as + if rain coming. Sea-breeze 10.30. + + Noon. 29.60 88 28 Camp at Safh Wady Kusayb. Cloudy and + sultry all day. Little sun, except from + nine till eleven a.m. Rain-heat; seems to + threaten rain. + + 3p.m. 29.56 86 23 In big tent. Sultry-feels like storm. + +At night, violent storm of wind from north-east, with nasty warm gusts. The +people call it Sabáh, probably for Sabá, the "Zephyr"--the Bád-i-Sabá of +poetry; also El-Farawi, because it blows at night. Big tent down in a moment, +as at Makná. N.B.--No windstorm on the coast. At foot of Abú Sháar Pass, +aneroid 28.80; at foot of quartz-vein (wall), 28.50. + +Mar. 15. 6a.m. 29.50 76 1 In big tent at Safh Wady Kusayb, north- + east wind still blowing. No dew in + morning. + + 11.45a.m.29.22 93 -5 In Wady Surr. Curious windy cirri to west. + Wind blew itself out in Wady Surr. + Pleasant sea-breeze from south. + + 3p.m. 28.93 100 14 In big tent at Safhat el-Wúayrah, Wady + Surr. Cloudy. Wind from south, a deflected + sea-breeze. + +ASCENDING SHÁRR MOUNTAIN. + +Mar. 16. 6a.m. 29.86 70 2 On box outside tent. Morning grand; still, + clear, warm, and dry. At seven a.m., going + uphill, aneroid 28.20; at 7.35, half-way + up, 27.70. + + 9a.m. 26.83 63 3 + + Noon. 26.70 82 - Under rock. Pleasant sea-breeze from + north-east. Sun hot; day quite clear. + + 3p.m. 26.76 86 3 Shade of rock, summit of outlier. Strong + wind from west. + +Mean of two observations on summit of outlier, 26.79 = 3,200 feet above sea- +level. + +EN ROUTE TO THE COAST. + +Mar. 17. 9a.m. 28.36 80 3 Under tree. Very hot sun that tired all. + Breeze at 8.30 a.m. + + 11a.m. 28.76(?)93 - Same place. At summit of Pass el-Kuwayd, + aneroid 28.13; in Wady Kuwayd, 28.20. Very + small descent to 28.50, say 400 feet. + + 3.40p.m. 28.65 90 -9 In big tent. + +ON THE RETURN MARCH TO SHARM YÁHÁRR. + +Mar. 18. 4.20am 28.63 73 -4 Complete change of climate. No Khamsin to- + day. Fine sea-breeze in puffes at 9:30 + a.m.; came up strong about noon. + + 11.45am 29.43 91 5 Under tree in Wady el-Bayzá. + +On March 17th began what our Egyptians called the Khamsin, and the Arabs El- +Dufún (Bedawin, Dafún) generically; and specifically Dufún el-Suráyyá ("of the +Pleiades""). Sky dark without clouds. At night, yellow clouds over moon. Gusts +alternately hot and cold. Highly electrical; few could sleep at night. Tents +left open. It was followed by damp and gloomy weather, which the Arabs +attribute to the Intikál el-Shams ("vernal equinox"). This began on March +19th, and lasted till the 22nd. Aneroid falls lower than we have yet seen it. + + + + + +OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "SINNÁR," BETWEEN MARCH 18 AND MARCH +20, 1878. + + + +Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hygr. Remarks. + Inches. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.) + +Mar. 18. 3p.m. 29.91 84 - - 24 In main cabin. A few light + clouds. + +Mar. 19. 7a.m. 29.83 - 70 64 - Under deck awning. Morning + still, calm, and muggy. Clouds + everywhere. Presently cool + land-breeze came up. Regular + Khamsin at eight a.m. + + Noon. 29.80 - 79 71 - In captain's cabin. Cloudy and + cool. + + 3p.m. 29.76 - 79 70 - In captain's cabin. Afternoon + sultry. Wind Azyab, and from + south. Seems to threaten a + storm. Heavy clouds from west + and north-west. + +Mar. 20. 7a.m. 29.82 - 75 71 - In captain's cabin. Sultry, + "juicy" morning. + + Noon. 29.75 - 76 70 - Dark and cloudy. Cool wind + from south-west. + + 4p.m. 29.80 - 76 68 - In captain's cabin. Sultry + air; no breeze; nasty and + damp. Cloudy all over. A storm + somewhere (Alexandria? Suez?). + Swell on sea, breaking on + south reef; comes from north- + west. Weather looks like that + of Europe. + +About eight p.m. a cool draught from north. No moon or stars. Expect it to end +either in a gale or in heavy rain. It ended on morning of March 22nd, with a +fine north wind; and at 9.10 p.m. with slight earthquake. + + + + + +OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "SINNÁR," DURING VOYAGE FROM SHARM +YÁHÁRR TO EL-WIJH, EL-HAURÁ, ETC., BETWEEN MARCH 21 AND MARCH 29, 1878. + + + +Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hydg. Remarks. + Inches. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.) + +STEAMING SOUTH. + +Mar. 21. 7a.m. 29.76 - 75 71 - In captain's cabin. Aneroid + very low. Wind south-west. + Ugly, gloomy weather. + Mountains misty. Very slight + roll in sea--became heavy in + afternoon--mar vecchio (Bahr + madfún). Bursts of half sun + after nine a.m. + + 12.40p.m.29.84 - 77 71 - Aneroid rising. At noon sea + quite calm and oily. Shortly + after, sea-breeze from west + set in. About one p.m. made + sail; rolling began. More sun. + Sails down. At two p m. + rolling heavy, cross sea (mar + vecchio). + + 3.30p.m. 29.85 - 76 73 - Damp increases. + +After five p.m. sky clearer and weather finer, but still dark to south. Stars +veiled. + +IN MARSÁ DUMAYGHAH. + +Mar. 22. 6.15a.m. 29.92 - 73 66 - In cabin. Morning cool. Wind + north. Total change of + weather. Sky clear, except + cirri, and wind increased. + White "horses" outside. All + nature gay. + + Noon. 30.01 - 79 65 - In cabin. Damp disappeared. + + 3p.m. 30.90 - 74 64 - Fine, strong, bright sea- + breeze. North wind, + threatening to blow hard. + Cloudy and clear. Windy sky. + +At 9.10 p.m. earthquake from north to south; lasted twenty seconds; followed +by strong north wind, which lasted only a short time. So end the Equinoctials. + +Mar. 23. 6a.m. 30.00 - 70 61 - At Dumayghah. In cabin. + Glorious morning; cool, calm, + bright. Zephyr from north. At + noon a few wind-clouds and + cirri to north and west. Very + heavy rolling (mar vecchio) + from north-west. Long waves. + + 3p.m. 29.98 - 74 65 - At El-Wijh. Pleasant, cool + north wind. Afternoon cloudy + and cold, as if wind came + through rain. + +Cleared in the evening. Saw stars. + +AT EL-WIJH, IN PORT. + +Mar. 24. 5.45a.m. 29.94 - 71 68 - In cabin. Grey, cloudy + morning. No cold. + + 3p.m. 29.98 - 74 65 - In cabin. Fine north breeze. + Warm sun. Air cool. Wind- + clouds to east; the rest blue. + Sky wondrous clear. + +At 4.30 p.m. left El-Wijh, and steamed nearly due south-west. Fine breeze and +long waves from north-west. Wind and waves fell. Rolled horridly from seven +p.m. to midnight: no ballast; very bad steering: then turned south-east, and +movement somewhat improved. Very heavy dew. Zodiacal light clear. + +IN CABIN AT SEA. + +Mar. 25. 7.30 a.m.30.04 - 73 68 - Marvellous fine morning. Wind + north. Glorious day. + + 12.15p.m.30.01 - 75 64 - Near El-Haurá. Lovely day. + Steady north breeze. + + 4p.m. 29.97 - 77 69 - + +NEAR EL-HAURÁ. + +Mar. 26 6a.m. 29.94 70 - - 36 In cabin. Red morning, warm + and still. Sea oily. Light + mists. Venus throws shadow. + Very heavy dew--all wet. + + 12.15p.m.29.91 - 74 70 - Same place. Warm sun; cool + breeze from north. + + 3.20p.m. 29.87 - 78 74 - At sea. Cirri and wind-clouds + to east and nearly everywhere. + +Weather fine, yet glass falling. Damp air. Hence (possibly) many have colds, +coughs, and hoarseness. Wind-clouds, but clear to north. Dew very heavy. + +RETURNING NORTH TO EL-WIJH. + +Mar. 27. 7a.m. 29.87 - 73 68 - In captain's cabin Dew-clouds + everywhere. Air very damp. + + 11.45a.m.29.98 - 78 70 - Air still and pleasant. + + 3p.m. 29.85 - 78 72 - Day decidedly hot and damp. + Aneroid very low. + +Mar. 28. 6.30a.m. 29.89 - 70-1/2 68 - In cabin. Dew wetted tents and + decks like heavy shower. Sky + all dew; air feels soppy. + Violent wind from north-west. + Ship rolling. + + 1p.m. 29.97 - 70-1/2 67 - + +Mar. 29. 7a.m. 29.97 71 - - 33 In cabin. Strong, cold north + wind. Men coughing like cries + of camels. Sky very clear. + This kind of storm is called + Hawwá el-'Uwwah ("last storm + of March"), and blows fourteen + days. Followed by El-Ni'ám el- + Kabir ("greater"), and El- + Saghir ("less"); continues + forty days. + + 6p.m. 28.78 74 - - 30 At Fort El-Wijh, two hours' + journey up the valley. + +Fine day on seaboard--not much gale. Wind north-west. Night cool, but no dew. + Ship's barometer, 6 a.m., 30.7 Wind north-west. Ther. (F.) 64 deg. + Ship's barometer, noon, 30.7 Wind north-west. Ther. (F.) 76 deg. + Ship's barometer, 3 p.m., 30.7 Wind north-west. Ther. (F.) 76 deg. + + + + + +OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING THIRD MARCH, FROM EL-WIJH TO EL-BADÁ AND BACK, +BETWEEN MARCH 30 AND APRIL 11, 1878. + + + +Compared ship's (Sinnár) mercurial barometer, 30.07 (64 deg. F.), with +anerold, 30.01; difference, aneroid,--0.06. + +On return compared ship's (Sinnár) mercurial barometer, 29.99, with aneroid, +29.86; difference, aneroid,--0.13. + +Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hydg. Remarks. + Inches. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.) + +Mar. 30. 5.30a.m. 29.70 64 - - 24 At Fort El-Wijh, on box before + tent. Cold and cloudy morning. + Moon and stars veiled. + + Noon. 29.55 90 - - 43 In camp at Umm el-Karáyát-- + deep valley. Puffs of sea- + breeze from south. Strong sun. + + 3.15p.m. 29.50 86 - - 29 In big tent at Umm el-Karáyát- + -lat. 26 deg. 13'. Sun very + hot. Fresh and strong sea- + breeze from east (?). + +Cool and pleasant night. No sign of dew. Climate healthy. Garrison at Fort El- +Wijh in excellent condition. + +Mar. 31. 5a.m. 29.44 45 - - 19 In big tent at Umm el-Karáyát. + Very clear, still morning. + West pink. At sunrise wind, + and hot and cold puffs (south- + east and land-breeze). + + 11.10p.m.29.46 90 - - -3 At Wady el-Kubbah, under tree. + Very hot. Wind shifting from + east to west (sea-breeze). + Stones in sun so hot that they + cannot be held. At noon + regular Khamsin; air sandy. + +Top of Jebel el-Kubbah, aneroid 29.34; in valley below, aneroid 29.46 (47?); +height, 120 feet. + + 3p.m. 29.30 94 - - -20 At Máyat el-Dasnah. Hot west + wind. Thermometer in big tent, + unwalled. + +Night cool. + +April 1. " 29.30 63 - - -12 At Máyat el-Dasnah. Morning + pleasant, still, and quite + clear. No sign of dew or + Khamsin. Hygrometer + exceedingly dry. Sun rose hot. + Slight breeze from eight a.m. + to 8.30 a.m., when the rocks + and stones have become + thoroughly heated. Very + refreshing: cools head; stops + perspiration. + + 9.30a.m. 28.96 83 - - -10 At foot of Marú Rábigh, in + shade of rock. + + 12.30p.m.28.92 99 - - -8 At Marú Rábigh, under big tent + awning. About noon a medley of + winds; hot blasts of Khamsin + from south-west, suddenly + changed to north. + + 3p.m. 28.88 100 - - -25 At Marú Rábigh. Hot sun. Wind + in puffs, mostly south-west. + No sand in air. Stones in + sunshine too hot to hold; yet + there are flies. + +This is second day of Khamsin. Comes up about ten a.m.; wind either too much +or too little. At 2.5 p.m. nearly blew tent down. + +April 2. 5.10a.m. 28.98 70 - - -6 At foot of Marú Rubayyigh in + Wady Rábigh. Morning perfectly + still. All appearance of + Khamsin. Light horizontal + striae to north. + + Noon. 29.15 92 - - -18 At Abú Gezáz valley, under + tree. Much bothered by small + flies. + + 3.10p.m. 29.14 100 - - -25 In big tent, which was again + blown down. + +Third day of Khamsin. All animals weak and worn out. Wind comes up later-- +11.30 a.m. to noon. Gives feeling of faintness and awful thirst. "Devils" +(Zawábah) rose high in valley with electrical whirl. Evening lowering. Wind or +rain clouds from west and north. Night still and cool. Threatening clouds east +and west. + +April 3. 5a.m. 29.20 65 - - -13 At Abú Gezáz valley. Morning + cool (sign Khamsin gone). Sun + pleasant. Red wind-clouds to + north and east. At six a.m. + pleasant, cool land-breeze + from south. + + Noon. 28.80 90 - - -16 At El-Badá, under palm-tree. + Wind west. Milky sky, all + white. + + 3p.m. 28.75 95 - - -24 In big tent. Regular Khamsin-- + very nasty. Clouds to west. + +Night still. Neither warm nor cool. climate fine. Colds and coughs +disappeared. + +AT EL-BADÁ. + +April 4. 5.30a.m. 28.70 68 - - -7 On box outside tent. Traces of + dew. White clouds. Looked + regularly like a Khamsin day. + + Noon. 28.74 90 - - 2 In big tent. No sun. Air + muggy. White gleams. View + poor; like rain. Strong blast + from south-west. Heavy clouds + west and north. Drops of rain + fell three times between one + p.m. and three p.m. + + 3p.m. 28.70 90 - - -8 + +At four p.m. in west a dust like general or prairie fire. A few drops of rain +fell at long intervals--could not catch any for photographs. Broad parallel +veins of white, red, and black cloud rising from east to west. Puffs of cold +wind came on, soon growing to blasts; then storm came down upon us. No thunder +or lightning. Kind of "dust-bow" in west (no rain), half the arc. Wind then +turned north and felt cold and rainy. Heavy cloud-bank to west. Forms of +mountains crept out of the brown and purple mist, half dust, half rain. All +enjoyed storm. No rain for two years has fallen here. Rainbows at El-'Akabah +(double) and at Shuwák (single). Cool and pleasant night, with dew. Mean of +six aneroid observations at El-Badá, 28.78. After leaving El-Badá mornings and +evenings delightful; sun warm in day; nights cool and pleasant. Dust at times. + +April 5. 4.30a.m. 28.65 - - - -8 In big tent at Badá. Dust + "devils." Great change after + rain. Very damp. + + 3p.m. 28.58 86 - - -3 At 'Ayn el-Kurr, under shade + of rock. Strong north wind. + +Though all prophesied Azyab or "south-easter," this was perhaps the finest of +all our days. Night cool. Cold wind at one a.m., of which all complained. + +April 6. 5.45a.m. 28.59 58 - - 6 At 'Ayn el-Kurr, on box + outside tent. White clouds to + south. No wind. False sea- + breeze at seven a.m.; true at + ten a.m. Cloudy forenoon. + + 11.45a.m.28.90 84 - - - In Wady el-Kurr. + + 3p.m. 28.87 87 - - -3 At Wady Laylah, in big tent. + Afternoon windy as usual. + Puffs from west (sea-breeze), + cold. Sky quite clear. + Mountains milky. + +Night cool, but not cold. + +April 7. 4.15a.m. 28.80 60 - - +5 In big tent at Wady Laylah. + Morning especially bright. + Lucifer like a little moon. + Breeze at eight a.m. + + Noon. 29.39 54 - - +2 Wady Birkat, under rock. Going + down seawards fast. Cool west + wind. Good sea-breeze. Sky and + sun clear--sun not unpleasant. + Hot in sheltered bends. + + 3.10p.m. 29.46 81 - - 4 At Abál-Ajáj, under tamarisks. + +Dew at night. + +April 8. 5a.m. 29.55 60 - - 27 Outside tent at Abál-Ajáj. + Cool morning; warmer at eight + a.m. before breeze set in. + + Noon. 29.94 83 - - 22 At the temple (El-Gasr), Wady + Hamz. Sand-dust with sea- + breeze, terrible at temple and + around it. Eyes filled, + clothes covered. Saw mirage-- + well defined for first time. + + 3p.m. 29.90 52 - - 20 At Wady Hamz. Hygrometer damp + on account of sea-breeze. + +April 9. 4a.m. 29.92 70 - - 25 Still, clear, and beautiful, + like all these mornings. Hot + sun. Blue sea, glassy near the + shore. Puffs of wind from + east. + + Noon. 29.90 96 - - -8 In big tent at Wady Mismáh. + Cool breeze from north-cast. + Heat strongly reflected from + quartz. Vegetation dreadfully + dry; plants look dead. Two bad + years. + + 3p.m. 29.74 92 - - -18 In big tent at Abál-Marú. + Another nasty afternoon. High + west wind--sea-breeze, not + Khamsin; tent almost blown + down. Dust dreadful. + +Evening charming. Night admirably cool. + +April 10 4.20a.m. 29.74 - - - 0 In big tent at Abál-Marú. + Splendid morning; few striae + in east. Will be hot. + + 4.30p.m. 29.95 - 76 73 - On board Sinnár, captain's + cabin. Pleasant afternoon. + Cool sea-breeze. + +ON BOARD "SINNÁR." + +April 11.6a.m. 29.86 - 70 66 - In captain's cabin. Felt damp + strongly after the Desert. + + 12.30p.m.29.87 - 78 74 - All complaining of heat (white + heat); damp is the cause. No + sea-breeze to speak of. + + 3.15p.m. 29.83 - 79 75 - White clouds everywhere. + Curious wind-clouds, not a + little like comets. + +Heavy dew. Streets of El-Wijh wet. + + + + + +OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STREAMER "SINNÁR," EN ROUTE FROM EL-WIJH TO +SUEZ, FROM APRIL 12 TO APRIL 17, 1878. + + + +Date. Time. Aneroid Dry Wet Remarks. + Inches. Bulb. Bulb. + +April 12. 6.20 a.m. 29.89 78 73 En route to El-Muwaylah, captain's + cabin. Red sunrise. Clouds thin all + about horizon. Looks like regular + Khamsin day. Feels exceedingly damp. + + 12.20 p.m. 20.80 79 70 In dead calm. Sea oily, like mirror. + No winds. Thin white clouds + everywhere. + + 3.35 p.m. 29.78 81 76 In captain's cabin. Wretched day at + El-Wijh and ashore. Very muggy. + +At night a "bruch" (halo) of clouds round moon, and far from it. Expect +storm. "Bruchs" round moon on 13th, 14th, and 15th. + +April 13. Noon. 29.84 78 70 Anchored before El-Muwaylah. No dew + in morning, and clouds everywhere. + No sun seen. Very hot at noon. White + clouds everywhere. Smoke of steamer + hangs low. Mountains look very high. + Muggy. Fine drinkytite. + + 3 p.m. 29.80 83 73 At Sharm Yáhárr. Hot and sweaty. + Light west wind rose after noon; + soon fell. + +At night clouds and "bruch." Clear to north, thick to south. + +April 14. 6.30 a.m. 29.82 78 72 At Sharm Yáhárr. Nasty muggy + morning. Light north breeze set in. + + 12.40 p.m. 29.88 82 75 + + 3 p.m. 29.85 83 76 Warm and cloudy. + +Weather threatening. The same storm that found us at Makná last year. + +April 15. " - - - Water flooded pier, and waves broke + on shore. + +April 16. " - - - Ran to El-Muwaylah. Had to return to + Sharm Yáhárr. Furious wind from west + (Gharbi) began about nine a.m. + +April 17. Noon. 29.98 77 65 In captain's cabin, Sharm Yáhárr. + + 3 p.m. 29.92 76 65 + +Wind changed to north. Weather became cool and pleasant. Gale still, but +shows signs of abating. + +On April 18th weather somewhat abated. Stopped at El-Mawaylah to drop Sayyid +'Abd el-Rahim; and steamed off for Suez, where we arrived on 20th. Voyage +very slow in teeth of north wind. Yet at Suez had had south wind for some +days, and congratulated us upon the fact. + + + + + +OBSERVATIONS TAKEN BY MR. DAVID DUGUID, BETWEEN JANUARY 8 AND FEBRUARY 1, 1878. + + + +(He used the French aneroide and the Centigrade thermometer bought at Cairo.) + +Date. Time. Aneroid Thermometer Remarks. + Millimetres. Centigrade. + (deg.) + +Jan. 8. Noon. 768 25 At Sharmá camp. + +Jan. 9. Noon. 768 25 Ditto. + +Jan. 10. Noon. 761 26 Ditto. + +Jan. 11. Noon. 763 19 Ditto. + +Jan. 12. Noon. 763 19 Ditto. + +Jan. 13. Noon. 760 30 Ditto. Very hot. + +Jan. 14. Daylight 760 20 + (?) 755 25 Very hot. + 8 p.m. 758 23 + +Jan. 15. (?) 757 21 + (?) 757 25 Hot. + Nightfall 759 20 + +Jan. 16. Daylight 762 18 Mr. Duguid marched from Sharmá to El-Muwaylah. + +Jan. 17. Sunset. 768 25 On board Mukhbir at Sharm Yáhárr. + +Jan. 18. Sunrise. 766 22 On board Mukhbir. + (?) 766 23 Ditto. + Sunset. 764 28 Ditto. Hot. + +ON BOARD. + +Jan. 19. Sunrise. 763 21 + Noon. 762 25 + Sunset. 763 25 + +Jan. 20. Sunrise. 761 21 + Noon. 762 25 + Nightfall 762 28 Hot + +Jan. 21. Sunrise. 763 23 Bad weather at Sharm Yáhárr. + Noon. 763 24 + Sunset. 767 25 + +Jan. 22. Sunrise. 769 19 Mukhbir delayed by bad weather. + Noon. 768 24 + +Jan. 24. Noon. 767 24 + +Mr. Duguid steamed out of Yáhárr for Makná. Anchored off Sináfir Island. + +Jan. 25. Sunrise. 767 23 Reached Makná. + Noon. 766 24 + Sunset. 765 25 + +Jan. 26. Sunrise. 764 23 On board Mukhbir. + Noon. 763 27 + Sunset. 763 29 + +Jan. 27. Sunrise. 765 22 Ditto. + Noon. 763 23 + Sunset. 763 27 + +Jan. 28. Sunrise. 763 21 Ditto. + Noon. 762 24 + Sunset. 762 22 + +Jan. 29. Sunrise. 763 20 Ditto. + Noon. 762 22 + Sunset. 762 23 + +Jan. 30. Sunrise. 766 20 Ditto. + Noon. 764 24 + Sunset. 765 24 + +Jan. 31. Sunrise. 765 22 Ditto. + Noon. 764 23 + Sunset. 764 23 + +Feb. 1. Sunrise. 765 21 Ditto. + Noon. 764 22 + + + + + +OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "MUKHBIR," BY MR DAVID DUGUID (DURING OUR SECOND +JOURNEY), BETWEEN FEBRUARY 18 AND MARCH 8, 1878. + + + +Date. Time. Aneroid Thermometer Remarks. + Millimetres. Centigrade. + (deg.) + +Feb. 18. 7 a.m. 764 18 Clear sky. Light breeze. + Noon. 763 23 Same weather. + 5 p.m. 764 23 Clear sky. Good breeze. + +Feb. 19. 7 a.m. 764 20 Clear sky. Light wind. + Noon. 764 23 Light wind. Few clouds in east. + 5 p.m. 764 24 Clear sky. Light wind. + +Feb. 20. 7 a.m. 765 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. + Noon. 765 21 Clear sky. Light north-west wind. + 5 p.m. 764 23 Clear sky. Light east wind. + +Feb. 21. 7 a.m. 765 20 White clouds all round. Light east wind. + Noon. 766 23 Few clouds to south. Light north-west wind. + +Feb. 22. 7 a.m. 765 20 Few clouds to east. Light west wind. + Noon. 764 22 Few clouds to east. Good north-west breeze. + 5 p.m. 764 22 Few clouds to west. Light north wind. + +Feb. 23. 7 a.m. 764 19 Clouds to south-west. No wind. + Noon. 765 21 Clouds to east. Light north-west wind. + 5 p.m. 765 22 Few clouds to east. Light north-west wind. + +Feb. 24. 7 a.m. 767 19 Clear sky. No wind. + Noon. 768 22 Clear sky. Light north wind. + 5 p.m. 768 24 Same weather. + +Feb. 25 7 a.m. 769 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. + Noon. 769 22 Clear sky. Light west wind. + 5 p.m. 768 24 Clear sky. No wind. + +Feb. 26. 7 a.m. 766 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. + 5 p.m. 766 20 Same weather. + +Feb. 27. 7 a.m. 762 20 Few clouds to south. Light north-east wind. + Noon. 762 23 Clear sky. Light north wind. + 5 p.m. 761 25 Clear sky. Light west wind. + +Feb. 28. 5.p.m. 764 23 Heavy clouds to west. Strong west wind. + +Mar. 1. 7 a.m. 767 20 Few clouds in south. Light north wind. + Noon. 767 23 Clear sky. Good north-west breeze. + 5 p.m. 765 22 Few clouds to west. Light wind from west. + +Mar. 2. 7 a.m. 765 20 Clouds all round. Light east wind. + Noon. 765 23 Clouds all round. Light west wind. + 5 p.m. 764 24 Clouds all round. Light north wind. + +Mar. 3. 7 a.m. 762 20 Few clouds to east. No wind. + Noon. 763 22 Few clouds to south. Good north-west breeze. + 5 p.m. 763 23 Few clouds to north. Good west breeze. + +Mar. 4. 7 a.m. 767 21 Clear sky. Light breeze from east. + Noon. 768 23 Clear sky. Light breeze from west. + 5 p.m. 767 24 Clear sky. Light breeze from north. + +Mar. 5. 7 a.m. 764 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. + Noon. 764 22 Clear sky. Good breeze from east. + 5 p.m. 762 25 Light clouds all round. North-west wind. + +Mar. 6. 7 a.m. 763 20 Heavy clouds to east. Light east wind. + Noon. 763 23 A few clouds to east. Light west wind. + 5 p.m. 762 24 Dark clouds all round. Strong west wind. At ten + p.m. gale from west, with some flashes of + lightning. + +Mar. 7. 7 a.m. 766 19 Clouds to south. Wind north. + Noon. 767 23 Clear sky. Good breeze from north-west. + 5 p.m. 766 24 Clear sky. Wind north. + +Mar. 8. 7 a.m. 763 19 Clear sky. Light east wind. + Noon. 763 23 Clear sky. Light west wind. + + + + + +OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "MUKHBIR," BY MR. DAVID DUGUID (DURING OUR WEEK IN EL- +SHÁRR), BETWEEN MARCH 13 AND MARCH 19, 1878. + + + +Date. Time. Aneroid Thermometer Remarks. + Millimetres. Centigrade. + (deg.) + +Mar. 13. 6 a.m. 762 25 Clear sky. Good breeze. Wind west. + Noon. 761 26 Clear sky. Light breeze. Wind west. + +Mar. 14. 6 a.m. 762 21 Light clouds all over. Wind east. Light breeze. + Noon. 764 24 Same cloudy weather, but wind from east (?). + 3 p.m. 763 26 Light clouds all round. Wind west and light. + +Mar. 15. 6 a.m. 762 21 A few clouds to south. Wind east and light. + Noon. 761 26 Light clouds all round. Moderate breeze from + west. + 3 p.m. 760 27-1/2 Same weather. + +Mar. 16. 6 a.m. 760 24 A few clouds to south. Light east wind. + Noon. 760 26 Clear sky. Wind south-west. Light breeze. + 3 p.m. 759 29 Clear sky. Wind west. Very light breeze. + +Mar. 17. 6 a.m. 759 24 Clear sky. Light breeze from east. + Noon. 760 26 Clear sky. Wind west. Very light breeze. + 3 p.m. 760 27 Same weather. + +Mar. 18. 6 a.m. 760 23 Same weather, by wind west. + Noon. - - Clear sky. Wind west. Very light breeze. + +Mar. 19. 6 a.m. 759 23 Few clouds to north. Wind east, and very light. + Noon. 758 19 Clouds to north-west. Good breeze from west. + 3 p.m. 758 29 Clouds all round. Wind south-west. Good breeze. + + + + + +OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "SINNÁR," BY CAPTAIN NÁSIR AHMED, BETWEEN MARCH 29 AND +APRIL 10, 1878. + + + +Date. Time. Mercurial Thermometer. Remarks. + Barometer. Fahr. + +Mar. 29. 6 a.m. 30.7 64 + Noon. 30.7 76 + 3 p.m. 30.7 76 + +Mar. 30. 6 a.m. 30.00 61 White clouds to north-east. Wind north-east. + Noon. 30.05 77 + 3 p.m. 30.00 80 Air very damp from noon to sunset. Wind west. + +Mar. 31. 6 a.m. 29.9 63 Wind north-east. Never saw barometer so low. + Noon. 30.00 80 Dry and fine. + 3 p.m. 29.98 82 + +April 1. 6 a.m. 29.94 66 Wind east. Fine day. + Noon. 29.95 83 + 3 p.m. 29.92 83 Damp from noon to sunset. + +April 2. 6 a.m. 29.90 68 Wind east. Fine day. + Noon. 30.00 80 Damp. + 3 p.m. 29.90 81 Red clouds at sunset. + +Gale of wind at El-Wijh from north-east, began at seven p.m. Ship under shelter. Rain for half +an hour. + +April 3. 6 a.m. 30.00 69 Wind north. + Noon. 30.20 80 Damp. + 3 p.m. 30.00 79 Wind north-west at sunset. + +April 4. 6 a.m. 30.00 73 Wind north-west. + Noon. 30.03 76 Wind north-west all day. + 3 p.m. 30.00 77 + +Storm on seaboard. Heavy clouds, wind, and gale all day from north-west. Sinnár rolling. + +April 5. 6 a.m. 29.93 66 Wind north-west. + Noon. 30.00 76 Wind north-west. + 3 p.m. 30.00 75 Fine day. + +April 6. 6 a.m. 29.93 62 Wind north. + Noon. 30.00 74 Wind north-west. + 3 p.m. 30.00 74 Same weather. + +April 7. 6 a.m. 29.94 64 Wind north. + Noon. 30.00 79 Fine day. + 3 p.m. 30.00 76 Wind north-west from noon to sunset. Fine weather. + +April 8. 6 a.m. 30.02 61 Wind east. + Noon. 30.04 73 Fine day. + 3 p.m. 30.04 78 From noon to sunset, fine but damp. + +April 9. 6 a.m. 30.04 68 Wind east. + Noon. 30.06 77 + 3 p.m. 30.06 81 Damp from noon to sunset. + +April 10. 6 a.m. 30.06 64 Wind north. Fine day. Damp and north-west wind + from noon to sunset. + +CAIRO. + +Reaching Cairo, I found Dr. T. E. Maclean from Thebes, with good instruments. He kindly compared +mine with his, and gave me the following results:--The difference between my aneroid (Casella) +and his is very slight, varying generally from 0.05 to -0.10. He advises me to neglect this +slight difference. The dry bulb is, on the whole, a little higher than his; and we have not +sufficient observations for the wet bulb. The pocket thermometer wants correction; it reads from ++1 deg. to +2 deg. 15'. + + + + + +LIST OF OBSERVATIONS. + + + +N&Z = Negretti and Zambra +No obs. = No observation. + +Date. Time. N&Z's My Differ- Casellás Differ- N&Z's Casellás Differ- N&Z's Casellás Differ- +(1878) standard Casella. ence for portable ence for dry bulb. dry bulb. ence. wet wet ence for + aneroid. correc- thermo- correc- No. bulb. bulb. correc- + No.1140. tions. meter tions. 39,518. tions. + (deg.). + +April 28. 12.30p.m. No obs. No obs. - 91 -1.6 89.4 90.0 -0.6 71.75 71.0 +0.75 + 3p.m. No obs. No obs. - 84 -2.1 81.9 82.5 -0.6 69.0 69.0 0.0 + 6.30p.m. No obs. No obs. - 73 -2.5 70.5 71.0 -0.5 61.0 61.0 0.0 + +April 29. 9a.m. No obs. No obs. - 69 -2.4 66.6 67.0 -0.4 59.1 59.0 +0.1 + 11.30p.m. 29.796 29.850 -.054 77.5 -2.0 75.5 76.0 -0.5 63.5 64.0 -0.5 + 3p.m. 29.755 29.752 +.003 77.5 -1.5 76.0 76.0 0.0 62.75 62.0 -0.75 + +April 30. 9a.m. 29.828 29.850 -.022 67.5 -2.15 65.0 66.0 -1.0 59.5 60.5 -1.0 + 12.30p.m. 29.822 29.850 -.028 76 -1.5 74.5 75.0 -0.5 63.75 63.5 +0.25 + 3p.m. 29.799 29.802 -.003 77 -2.0 75.0 73.5 -0.5 64.0 58.0 +1.5 + +May 1. 9a.m. 29.959 30.100 -.141 66.5 -1.75 64.75 65.5 -0.75 57.5 58.0 -0.5 + 12.30p.m. 29.945 29.952 -.007 76 -2.5 73.5 74.5 -1.0 61.5 62.0 -0.5 + 3p.m. 29.984 29.902 +.082 77.5 -1.75 75.75 76.5 -0.75 61.75 61.5 +0.25 + +May 2. 9a.m. 30.051 30.102 -.051 66 -1.25 64.75 65.0 -0.25 58.0 58.5 -0.5 + 12.30p.m. 29.978 30.000 -.022 78 -2.0 76.0 76.0 0.0 63.0 66.5 -2.5 + 3p.m. 29.936 29.950 -.014 78 -1.5 76.5 No obs. - 63.75 No obs. - + +May 3. 9a.m. 29.961 29.952 +.009 71.5 -1.5 70.0 No obs. - 58.5 No obs. - + 12.30p.m. 29.880 29.900 -.020 83 -2.5 80.5 81.0 -0.5 63.23 62.0 +1.25 + 3p.m. 29.820 29.850 -.030 83 -1.1 81.9 82.5 -0.6 62.0 62.5 -0.5 + +May 4. 9a.m. 29.716 29.750 -.024 71.5 -1.25 70.25 71.0 -0.75 63.25 63.0 +0.25 + 12.30p.m. 29.679 29.700 -.021 89.5 -1.25 87.75 88.0 -0.25 70.25 69.5 +0.75 + 3.30p.m. 29.617 29.650 -.033 89.5 -1.0 88.5 89.0 -0.5 70.0 69.0 +1.0 + +May 5. 9.30a.m. 29.586 29.600 -.014 76.5 -1.5 75.0 No obs. - No obs.No obs. - + 12.30p.m. No obs. No obs. - 83 -2.0 81.0 82.0 -1.0 69.75 68.5 +1.25 + 3p.m. 29.603 29.602 -.001 82 -1.5 80.5 81.0 -0.5 69.0 67.0 +2.0 + +May 6. 9a.m. 29.780 29.800 -.020 70 -1.75 68.25 69.0 -0.75 63.0 63.0 0.0 + 12.30p.m. 29.785 29.800 -.015 77 -2.0 75.0 76.0 -1.0 65.25 65.0 +0.25 + 3p.m. 29.778 29.800 -.022 79 -2.0 77.0 77.5 -0.5 67.5 66.0 +1.5 + +May 7. 9a.m. 29.854 29.850 +.004 67 -2.0 65.0 66.0 -1.0 60.75 61.0 -0.25 + 12.30p.m. 29.822 29.802 -.020 80.5 -1.5 79.0 79.0 0.0 66.0 65.0 +1.0 + + + + + Endnotes: + + + + +[EN#1] The word is explained in my "Itineraries," part ii. sect. +3. + +[EN#2] See Appendix IV. "Botanical Notes." + +[EN#3] "Opens," i.e. the door for a higher price: it is the usual +formula of refusing to sell. + +[EN#4] Chap. XVI. + +[EN#5] The Saturday Review, in a courteous notice of my first +volume (May 25, 1878), has the following remarks:--"The Arabs +talk of some (?) Nazarenes, and a 'King of the Franks,' having +built the stone huts and the tombs in a neighbouring cemetery +('Aynúnah). But there can be no local tradition worth repeating +in this instance." Here we differ completely; and those will +agree with me who know how immutable and, in certain cases, +imperishable Arab tradition is. The reviewer, true, speaks of +North Midian, where all the tribes, except the Beni 'Ukbah, are +new. Yet legend can survive the destruction and disappearance of +a race: witness the folk-traditions of the North-Eastern Italians +and the adjacent Slavs. Here, however, in South Midian we have an +ancient race, the Baliyy. And what strengthens the Christian +legend is that it is known to man, woman, and child throughout +the length and breadth of the land. + +[EN#6] In Sinai "Shinnár" is also applied to a partridge, but I +am unable to distinguish the species--caccabis, Desert partridge, +(Ammoperdix heyi, the Arab Hajl), or the black partridge +(Francolinus vulgaris). + +[EN#7] Chap. IX. has already noticed Ptolemy's short measure. + +[EN#8] Chap. XVII. + +[EN#9] Helix desertorum (Forsk.) and Helix (sp. incert.) + +[EN#10] See "The Gold Mines of Midian,'' Chap. II. + +[EN#11] So in Moab the ruins of "Méron" or Mérou of the Greeks +has degenerated into Umm Rasás, "the Mother of Lead." + +[EN#12] Their names will be given in Chap. XIII. + +[EN#13] A. G., p. 24. See "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. XI. +Sprenger spells the word either with a Zád or a Zá: I have +discussed the question in my "Itineraries," part ii. sect. 4. + +[EN#14] See the end of this Chapter for a list. + +[EN#15] See Chap. XIV. + +[EN#16] "Irwin's Voyage," 1777. + +[EN#17] This was probably a misprint originally, but it has been +repeated in subsequent editions. Hence it imposed upon even such +careful workmen as the late Lieutenant Henry Raper, "The Practice +of Navigation," etc., p. 527, 6th edition. + +[EN#18] See an excellent description of the phenomenon in that +honest and courageous work, "Through Bosnia and the Herzegovina +on Foot," by Arthur J. Evans, B.A., F.S.A. London: Longmans, +1877. + +[EN#19] There is, however, nothing to prevent its being eaten. + +[EN#20] See Chap. X. + +[EN#21] Chap. X. + +[EN#22] Not to be confounded with the luguminous "Tanúb" +mentioned by Forskâl ("Flora," etc., p. 197). + +[EN#23] The word classically means the cypress or the +juniper-tree: in Jeremiah, where it occurs twice (xvii. 6 and +xlviii. 6), the Authorized Version renders it by "heath." It is +now generally translated "savin" (Juniperus sabina), a shrub +whose purple berries have a strong turpentine flavour. When shall +we have a reasonable version of Hebrew Holy Writ, which will +retain the original names of words either untranslatable or to be +translated only by guess-work? + +[EN#24] In Cairo generally called Espadrilles, and sold for 1.25 +francs. Nothing punishes the feet at these altitudes so much as +leather, black leather. + +[EN#25] The explorers laid this down at a few hundred feet. But +they judged from the eye; and probably they did not sight the +true culmination. Unfortunately, and by my fault, they were not +provided with an aneroid. + +[EN#26] See Chap. V. + +[EN#27] For the usual interpretations see Chapter I. The +Egyptians, like other nations, often apply their own names, which +have a meaning, to the older terms which have become +unintelligible. Thus, near Cairo, the old goddess, Athor el-Núbí +("of the Gold"), became Asr el-Nabi ("the Footprint of the +Apostle"). + +[EN#28] "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. XI. + +[EN#29] See Chap. XI. + +[EN#30] Chap. XII. + +[EN#31] Chap XV. + +[EN#32] Chap. XV. + +[EN#33] Vol. ii. Chap. X. I have also quoted him in "The +Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. VI. + +[EN#34] My "Pilgrimage" (Vol. I. Chap. XI.) called it "Sherm +Damghah": it is the "Demerah" of Moresby and the "Demeg" of 'Ali +Bey el-'Abbási (the unfortunate Spaniard Badia). + +[EN#35] See "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. VII. + +[EN#36] The old being the classical <Greek> (Iambia Vicus), in +north lat. 24°. This is Yambú' el-Nakhil, in Ptolemy's time a +seaport, now fifteen miles to the north-east (north lat. 24° 12' +3"?) of the modern town. The latter lies in north lat. 24° 5' 30" +(Wellsted, ii. II), and, according to the Arabs, six hours' march +from the sea. + +[EN#37] Vol. I. pp. 364, 365. + +[EN#38] "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. IX. + +[EN#39] Chap. VI. describes one of the sporadic (?) outcrops near +Tayyib Ism; and Chap. IX notices the apparently volcanic +sulphur-mount near El-Muwaylah. + +[EN#40] See Chap. IX. + +[EN#41] "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. XII. + +[EN#42] See "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. VIII. + +[EN#43] "Pilgrimage," Vol. I. Chap. XI. + +[EN#44] In "The Gold Mines of Midian" (Chap. IV.) I unconsciously +re-echoed the voice of the vulgar about "the harbour being bad +and the water worse" at El-Wijh. + +[EN#45] This style of writing reminds me of the inch allah +(Inshallah!) in the pages of a learned "war correspondent"--a +race whose naive ignorance and whose rare self-sufficiency so +completely perverted public opinion during the Russo-Turkish war +of 1877-78. + +[EN#46] Not Shaykh Hasan el-Marábit--"Pilgrimage," Vol. I. Chap. +XI. + +[EN#47] "Pilgrimage," Vol. I. Chap. XI., where it is erroneously +called "Jebel Hasan;" others prefer Hasa'ni--equally wrong. +Voyagers put in here to buy fish, which formerly was dried, +salted, and sent to Egypt; and, during the Hajj season, the +Juhaynah occupy a long straggling village of huts on the south +side of the island. + +[EN#48] There are now no less than three lines of steamers that +connect the western coast of Arabia with the north. The first is +the Egyptian Company, successively called Mejidíyyah, Azízíyyah, +and Khedivíyyah, from its chief actionnaire: the packets, mostly +three-masted screws, start from Suez to Jeddah every fortnight. +Secondly, the Austro-Hungarian Lloyd which, with the subvention +of £1400 per voyage, began in 1870 to ply monthly between +Constantinople, Port Sa'íd, Suez, Jeddah, and Hodaydah: it has +been suspended since the beginning of the Russo-Turkish war. +Thirdly, the British India Steam Navigation Company sends every +three weeks a ship from London viâ the Canal to Jeddah, Hodaydah, +and Aden. A fourth is proposed; Bymen's (Winan's?) steamers are +establishing a London-Basrah (Bassorah) line, in whose itinerary +will be Jeddah. + +[EN#49] The observation was taken on board the Sinnár, by the +first lieutenant Násir Effendi Ahmed: of course I am not +answerable for its correctness, although the latitude cannot be +far out. Thus the difference of parallel between it and El-Wijh +(north lat. 26° 14') would be sixty-eight direct geographical +miles. + +[EN#50] Beni Kalb: so the Juhaynah were called in the Apostle's +day. + +[EN#51] The site was probably near the Shaykh's tomb, where there +are wells which in winter supply water. + +[EN#52] This is the volume which I have translated: see also Dr. +Beke's papers in the Athenæum (February 8 and 15, 1873). + +[EN#53] See "Mount Sinai a Volcano" (Tinsleys). For a list of +Yakut's volcanoes, see Dr. Beke, "Sinai in Arabia," Appendix, p. +535. + +[EN#54] Vol. II. p. 187. + +[EN#55] "The Gold-Mines of Midian," p. 213. + +[EN#56] As regards these and similar graffiti see (Athenaeum, +March 16, 1878) an excerpt from the last Comptes Rendues of the +Acad. des Inscript. et B. Lettres, Paris. The celebrated M. +Joseph Halévy attacked in their entirety (about 680) the +rock-writings in the Safá desert, south-east of Damascus. The +German savants, mostly attributing them to the Sabá tribes, who +immigrated from Yemen about our first century, tried the +Himyaritic syllabaries and failed. M. Halévy traces them to the +Beni Tamúd (Thamudites), who served as mercenaries in the Roman +army, and whose head-quarters we are now approaching. They +contain, according to him, mostly proper names, with devotional +formulae, similar to those of the Sinaitic inscriptions and the +Kufic and later epigraphs which we discovered. For instance, "By +A., son of B., in memory of his mother; he has accomplished his +vow, may he be pardoned." The language is held to be intermediate +between Arabic and the northern Semitic branches. Names of the +Deity (El and Loo or La'?) are found only in composition, as in +Abd-El ("Abdallah, slave of El"); and the significant absence of +the cross and religious symbols remarked in the Syrian +inscriptions, denotes the era of heathenism, which lasted till +the establishment of Christianity, about the end of the third +century. "At that time," M. Halévy says, "Christianity became the +official religion of the Empire; doubt and scepticism penetrated +amongst those Arabic tribes which were the allies of Rome, and +amongst whom, for a certain time, a kind of vague Deism was +prevalent until the day when they disappeared, having been +absorbed by the great migrations which had taken place in those +countries." + +[EN#57] Some call it so; others Umm Karáyát: I have preferred the +former--"Mother of the Villages," not "of Villages"--as being +perhaps the more common. + +[EN#58] See Chap. XIX. + +[EN#59] Vol. II. Chap. X. + +[EN#60] This rock, assayed in England, produced no precious +metal. As has been said, gold was found in its containing walls +of quartz. + +[EN#61] This is the valley confounded by Wallin and those who +followed him (e.g. Keith Johnston) with the Wady Hamz, some forty +miles to the south. + +[EN#62] See the illustration, "Desert of the Exodus," p. 306. + +[EN#63] Vol. II. Chap. X. + +[EN#64] Described in "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. XII. + +[EN#65] Chap. XVIII. + +[EN#66] The barbarous names, beginning from the west, are Jebels +Sehayyir, 'Unká ("of the griffon"), Marákh (name of a shrub), +Genayy (Jenayy), El-Hazzah, El-Madhanah, Buza'mah, and Urnuwah. + +[EN#67] Dr. C. Carter Blake examined the four brought home, and +identified No. 1, superior pharyngeal bone and teeth (Scarus); +No. 2, inferior bone and teeth of a large fish allied to Labrus +or Chrysophrys; No. 3, left side, pre-maxillary, possibly same +species; and No. 4, lower right mandible of Sphœrodon +grandoculis, Rüppell. + +[EN#68] The MS. of this geographer was brought to light by +Professor Sprenger, and Part I. has been published by Professor +de Goeje in his "Bibliotheca Geographarum Arabicorum," here +alluded to. + +[EN#69] We have seen (Chap. II.) that the Arabs of Midian mistake +iron for antimony; and the same is the case in the Sinaitic +Peninsula. + +[EN#70] Ahmed Kaptán's solar observation. + +[EN#71] Written in pleasant memory of two visits to Uriconium, +the favourite "find" of poor Thomas Wright, under the guidance of +our steadfast and hospitable friend, Mr. Henry Wace, of +Brooklands, Shrewsbury. + +[EN#72] The capital was also transported to Cairo; it could not +have been voluted as there were only two projections. + +[EN#73] Lib. xvi. c. iv. § 24. The MSS. differ in the name of the +"village situated on the sea;" some call it Egra, others Negra, +after the inland settlement; and the commentator Kramer remarks, +Mire corrupta est h?c ultima libri pars. + +[EN#74] North lat. 26°, which would correspond with that of the +Abá'l-Maru' ruins. + +[EN#75] My friend Sprenger strongly protests against Ælius +Gallus, begging me to abandon him, as the Romans must long have +held the whole coast to El-Haurá, their chief settlement. + +[EN#76] For a specimen of the superficiality which characterizes +Lane's "Modern Egyptians," and of the benefits which, despite the +proverbial difficulty of changing an old book into a new one, an +edition, much enlarged and almost rewritten, would confer upon +students, see Vol. III. Chap. XXI. Instead of a short abstract of +all this celebrated story, we have only popular excerpts from the +first volume. + +[EN#77] On the maritime road between Meccah and El-Medínah, +celebrated for the apostolic battle which took place in A.H. 2. + +[EN#78] The names marked with interrogations are unknown to all +the Arabs whom I consulted : they are probably obsolete. + +[EN#79] Identified by Niebuhr and Wellsted with certains ruins +south of Yambú'. See Chap. IV. + +[EN#80] The straight path, the highway to Egypt or Cairo. + +[EN#81] Elsewhere called Sukyat Yezíd, a name now forgotten. + +[EN#82] I have remarked that the name of the Patriarch Jacob is +no longer connected with the Badá plain. + +[EN#83] Schweinfurth (the Athenæum, July 6, 1878) speaks of a +"Wadi Abu Marwa ('Quartz Valley')" south of the Galalah block. + +[EN#84] Chap. IX. + +[EN#85] A paper describing our "finds" was read before the +Anthropological Section of the British Association Meeting at +Dublin on August 21, 1878, and subsequently before the +Anthropological Institute of London (December 10, 1878). + +[EN#86] The following was the announcement offered to the +public:-- + +"La collection minéralogique et archéologique rapportée par le +Capitaine Burton, de sa seconde Expédition au pays de Midian, est +exposée dans les salles de l'Hippodrome, avant d'être envoyée à +l'Exposition Universelle de Paris, sous la direction de M. G. +Marie, inge'nieur des mines. + +"La salle du sud renferme les croquis et les aquarelles faits par +M. E. Lacaze. + +"La partie du nord commence avec Akabah, point extrême atteint +par l'Expédition; elle contient les résultats du premier voyage +de l'Expédition, c'est-à-dire: Shermá, Djebel el-Abiat, Aynouneh, +Moghair-Schuaib, Mokna et Akabah. + +"Le mur de l'est contient tout ce qui se rapporte à la seconde +exploration, c'est-à-dire l'Hismá et le grand massif du Shárr. + +"Le mur du sud contient les principaux points de vue pris au sud +du pays de Midian: Wedje, la forteresse, la montagne de +Omm-el-Karáyát, travaillée par les anciens, la mine de Omm +el-Hárab, le temple antique, etc., etc. + +"Sur la table sont les médailles et la collection anthropologique +fait par le Capitaine Burton. + +"La salle du nord contient la collection géologique et +minéralogique faite par M. G. Marie; les minéraux sont classés +suivant l'ordre des pays parcourus, c'est-à-dire en commencant à +Akabah et finissant au Ouadi Hamz, frontière du Hedjaz. + +"Tout autour de la salle sont rangées les vingt caisses contenant +des échantillons que Son Altesse le Khédive envoie en Angleterre +pour y être analysés. Près de la porte de l'est sont placés les +restes du temple de l'Ouadi Hamz, les moulins pour écraser le +quartz, les briques réfractaires, et enfin les inscriptions +Nabathéennes. + +"Dans les loges de l'Hippodrome, derrière les deux salles, sont +déposés environ quinze tonnes d'échantillons, destinès a être +analysés par une Commission locale, nommée par Son Altesse le +Khédive." + +[EN#87] M. Marie, £35 12s.; Haji Wali, £23; M. Philipin, £12 4s.; +M. Lacaze, £3 16s. + +[EN#88] Starting with a hundred camels and three Shaykhs. + +[EN#89] For all hands. + +[EN#90] Includes "bakhshísh." + +[EN#91] Sixty-one camels, four Shaykhs. + +[EN#92] For all hands. + +[EN#93] Fifty camels, three Shaykhs. + +[EN#94] For all hands. + +[EN#95] Got from Mukhbir. + +[EN#96] Fifty-eight camels, three Shaykhs. + +[EN#97] For all hands. + +[EN#98] Includes "bakhshísh." + +[EN#99] Six months' pay. + +[EN#100] Four months. + +[EN#101] Four months and a half. + +[EN#102] Employed on special service. + + + + + +End of The Land of Midian, (Revisited) By Richard F. Burton, +Volume 2. + + + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Land of Midian, Vol. 2, by Richard Burton + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF MIDIAN, VOL. 2 *** + +This file should be named 7113-8.txt or 7113-8.zip + +Produced by JC Byers and proofread by MaryAnn Short + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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