diff options
| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:28:57 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:28:57 -0700 |
| commit | 21119ab91148f4ec42d39d40b04ec415dd76f442 (patch) | |
| tree | c94cd173af747ab9303255b2ad5eac70237d24f5 /7113-h | |
Diffstat (limited to '7113-h')
| -rw-r--r-- | 7113-h/7113-h.htm | 10419 |
1 files changed, 10419 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/7113-h/7113-h.htm b/7113-h/7113-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..554847b --- /dev/null +++ b/7113-h/7113-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,10419 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="iso-8859-1"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta content="pg2html (binary v0.17)" name="linkgenerator" /> + <title> + The Land of Midian (revisited), by Richard F. Burton + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .75em; margin-bottom: .75em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%; text-align: justify; font-size: 80%; font-style: italic;} + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + .xx-small {font-size: 60%;} + .x-small {font-size: 75%;} + .small {font-size: 85%;} + .large {font-size: 115%;} + .x-large {font-size: 130%;} + .indent5 { margin-left: 5%;} + .indent10 { margin-left: 10%;} + .indent15 { margin-left: 15%;} + .indent20 { margin-left: 20%;} + .indent25 { margin-left: 25%;} + .indent30 { margin-left: 30%;} + .indent35 { margin-left: 35%;} + .indent40 { margin-left: 40%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {position: absolute; right: 1%; font-size: 0.6em; + font-variant: normal; font-style: normal; + text-align: right; background-color: #FFFACD; + border: 1px solid; padding: 0.3em;text-indent: 0em;} + .side { float: left; font-size: 75%; width: 15%; padding-left: 0.8em; + border-left: dashed thin; text-align: left; + text-indent: 0; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; + font-weight: bold; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: solid 1px;} + .head { float: left; font-size: 90%; width: 98%; padding-left: 0.8em; + border-left: dashed thin; text-align: center; + text-indent: 0; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; + font-weight: bold; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: solid 1px;} + p.pfirst, p.noindent {text-indent: 0} + span.dropcap { float: left; margin: 0 0.1em 0 0; line-height: 0.8 } + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Land of Midian, Vol. 2, by Richard Burton +#24 in our series by Richard Burton + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg eBook. + +This header should be the first thing seen when viewing this Project +Gutenberg file. Please do not remove it. Do not change or edit the +header without written permission. + +Please read the "legal small print," and other information about the +eBook and Project Gutenberg at the bottom of this file. Included is +important information about your specific rights and restrictions in +how the file may be used. You can also find out about how to make a +donation to Project Gutenberg, and how to get involved. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**eBooks Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*****These eBooks Were Prepared By Thousands of Volunteers!***** + + +Title: The Land of Midian, Vol. 2 + +Author: Richard Burton + +Release Date: December, 2004 [EBook #7113] +[This file was first posted on March 11, 2003] +Last Updated: December 18, 2018 + + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8559-1 + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF MIDIAN, VOL. 2 *** + + + + +Etext produced by JC Byers and proofread by MaryAnn Short + +HTML file produced by David Widger + + + +</pre> + <div style="height: 8em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + THE LAND OF MIDIAN (Revisited) + </h1> + <h2> + By Richard F. Burton + </h2> + <h3> + Vol. II. of Two Volumes. + </h3> + <h4> + C. Kegan Paul & Co. + </h4> + <h4> + London: + </h4> + <h3> + 1879 + </h3> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <p> + <b>CONTENTS</b> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PART"> PART II. — The March Through Central and + Eastern Midian. (Continued.) </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> Chapter XI. — The Unknown Lands South of + the Hismá–Ruins of Shuwák and Shaghab. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> Chapter XII. —From Shaghab to Zibá—ruins + of El-Khandakí' and Umm Ámil—the Turquoise Mine–Return to + El-Muwaylah. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0003"> Chapter XIII. — A Week Around and upon the + Shárr Mountain–Résumé of the March </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0004"> Chapter XIV. — Down South—to + El-Wijh–Notes on the Quarantine—the Hutaym Tribe. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> Chapter XV. — The Southern Sulphur-hill—the + Cruise to El-Haurá—Notes on the </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0006"> Chapter XVI. — Our Last March—the + Inland Fort—Ruins of the Gold-mines at Umm El-Karáyát and Umm + El-Haráb. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0007"> Chapter XVII. — The March Continued to + El-Badá–Description of the Plain Badais. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0008"> Chapter XVIII. — Coal a "Myth"—March + to Marwát—Arrival at the Wady Hamz. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0009"> Chapter XIX. — The Wady Hamz—the + Classical Ruin—Abá'l-Marú, the Mine of </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0011"> Résumé of Our Last Journey. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_CONC"> Conclusion. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_FOOT"> FOOTNOTES: </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PART" id="link2H_PART"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + PART II. — The March Through Central and Eastern Midian. + (Continued.) + </h2> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XI. — The Unknown Lands South of the Hismá–Ruins of Shuwák + and Shaghab. + </h2> + <p> + We have now left the region explored by Europeans; and our line to the + south and the south-east will lie over ground wholly new. In front of us + the land is no longer Arz Madyan: we are entering South Midian, which will + extend to El-Hejáz. As the march might last longer than had been expected, + I ordered fresh supplies from El-Muwaylah to meet us in the interior viâ + Zibá. A very small boy acted dromedary-man; and on the next day he reached + the fort, distant some thirty-five and a half direct geographical miles + eastward with a trifling of northing. + </p> + <p> + We left the Jayb el-Khuraytah on a delicious morning (6.15 a.m., February + 26th), startling the gazelles and the hares from their breakfast graze. + </p> + <p> + The former showed in troops of six; and the latter were still breeding, as + frequent captures of the long-eared young proved. The track lay down the + Wady Dahal and other influents of the great Wady Sa'lúwwah, a main feeder + of the Dámah. We made a considerable détour between south-south-east and + south-east to avoid the rocks and stones discharged by the valleys of the + Shafah range on our left. To the right rose the Jibál el-Tihámah, over + whose nearer brown heights appeared the pale blue peaks of Jebel Shárr and + its southern neighbour, Jebel Sa'lúwwah. + </p> + <p> + At nine a.m. we turned abruptly eastward up the Wady el-Sulaysalah, whose + head falls sharply from the Shafah range. The surface is still Hismá + ground, red sand with blocks of ruddy grit, washed down from the plateau + on the left; and, according to Furayj, it forms the south-western limit of + the Harrah. The valley is honeycombed into man-traps by rats and lizards, + causing many a tumble, and notably developing the mulish instinct. We then + crossed a rough and rocky divide, Arabicè a Majrá, or, as the Bedawin here + pronounce it, a "Magráh,"<a href="#linknote-1" name="linknoteref-1" + id="linknoteref-1"><small>1</small></a> which takes its name from the + tormented Ruways ridge on the right. After a hot, unlively march of four + hours (= eleven miles), on mules worn out by want of water, we dismounted + at a queer isolated lump on the left of the track. This Jebel + el-Murayt'bah ("of the Little Step") is lumpy grey granite of the coarsest + elements, whose false strata, tilted up till they have become + quasi-vertical, and worn down to pillars and drums, crown the crest like + gigantic columnar crystallizations. We shall see the same freak of nature + far more grandly developed into the "Pins" of the Shárr. It has evidently + upraised the trap, of which large and small blocks are here and there + imbedded in it. The granite is cut in its turn by long horizontal dykes of + the hardest quadrangular basalt, occasionally pudding'd with banded lumps + of red jasper and oxydulated iron: from afar they look like water-lines, + and in places they form walls, regular as if built. The rounded forms + result from the granites flaking off in curved laminæ, like onion-coats. + Want of homogeneity in the texture causes the granite to degrade into + caves and holes: the huge blocks which have fallen from the upper heights + often show unexpected hollows in the under and lower sides. Above the + water we found an immense natural dolmen, under which apparently the + Bedawin take shelter. After El-Murayt'bah the regular granitic sequence + disappears, nor will it again be visible till we reach Shaghab (March + 2nd). + </p> + <p> + About noon we remounted and rounded the south of the block, disturbing by + vain shots two fine black eagles. I had reckoned upon the "Water of + El-Murayt'bah," in order to make an exceptional march after so many days + of deadly slow going. But the cry arose that the rain-puddle was dry. We + had not brought a sufficient supply with us, and twenty-two miles to and + from the Wady Dahal was a long way for camels, to say nothing of their + owners and the danger of prowling Ma'ázah. In front water lay still + farther off, according to the guides, who, it will be seen, notably + deceived us. So I ordered the camp to be pitched, after reconnoitering the + locale of the water; and we all proceeded to work, with a detachment of + soldiers and quarrymen. It was not a rain-puddle, but a spring rising + slowly in the sand, which had filled up a fissure in the granite about + four feet broad; of these crevices three were disposed parallel to one + another, and at different heights. They wanted only clearing out; the + produce was abundant, and though slightly flavoured with iron and sulphur, + it was drinkable. The thirsty mules amused us not a little: they smelt + water at once; hobbled as they were, all hopped like kangaroos over the + plain, and with long ears well to the fore, they stood superintending the + operation till it was their turn to be happy. + </p> + <p> + Our evening at the foot of El-Ruways was cheered, despite the flies, the + earwigs, and the biting Ba'úzah beetle, which here first put in an + appearance, by the weird and fascinating aspect of the southern + Hismá-wall, standing opposite to us, and distant about a mile from the + dull drab-coloured basin, El-Majrá. Based upon mighty massive foundations + of brown and green trap, the undulating junction being perfectly defined + by a horizontal white line, the capping of sandstone rises regular as if + laid in courses, with a huge rampart falling perpendicular upon the + natural slope of its glacis. This bounding curtain is called the Taur + el-Shafah, the "inaccessible part of the Lip-range." Further eastward the + continuity of the coping has been broken and weathered into the most + remarkable castellations: you pass mile after mile of cathedrals, domes, + spires, minarets, and pinnacles; of fortresses, dungeons, bulwarks, walls, + and towers; of platforms, buttresses, and flying buttresses. These Girágir + (Jirájir), as the Bedawin call them, change shape at every new point of + view, and the eye never wearies of their infinite variety. Nor are the + tints less remarkable than the forms. When the light of day warms them + with its gorgeous glaze, the buildings wear the brightest hues of red + concrete, like a certain house near Prince's Gate, set off by lambent + lights of lively pink and balas-ruby, and by shades of deep transparent + purple, while here and there a dwarf dome or a tumulus gleams sparkling + white in the hot sun-ray. The even-glow is indescribably lovely, and all + the lovelier because unlasting: the moment the red disc disappears, the + glorious rosy smile fades away, leaving the pale grey ghosts of their + former selves to gloom against the gloaming of the eastern sky. I could + not persuade M. Lacaze to transfer this vividity of colour to canvas: he + had the artist's normal excuse, "Who would believe it?" + </p> + <p> + The next morning saw the Expedition afoot at six a.m., determined to make + up for a half by the whole day's work so long intended. The track struck + eastward, and issued from the dull hollow, Majrá el-Ruways, by a made road + about a mile and a half long, a cornice cut in the stony flanks of a hill + whose head projected southwards into the broad Wady Hujayl ("the Little + Partridge"). This line seems to drain inland; presently it bends round by + the east and feeds the Wady Dámah. Rain must lately have fallen, for the + earth is "purfled flowers," pink, white, and yellow. The latter is the + tint prevailing in Midian, often suggesting the careless European + wheat-field, in which "shillock" or wild mustard rears its gamboge head + above the green. Midian wants not only the charming oleander and the + rugged terebinth, typical of the Desert; but also the "blood of Adonis," + the lovely anemone which lights up the Syrian landscape like the + fisherman's scarlet cap in a sea-piece. This stage introduced us to the + Hargul (Harjal, Rhazya stricta), whose perfume filled the valley with the + clean smell of the henna-bloom, the Eastern privet—Mr. Clarke said + "wallflowers." Our mules ate it greedily, whilst the country animals, they + say, refuse it: the flowers, dried and pounded, cure by fumigation "pains + in the bones." Here also we saw for the first time the quaint + distaff-shape of the purple red Masrúr (Cynomorium coccineum, Linn.), from + which the Bedawi "cook bread." It is eaten simply peeled and sun-dried, + when it has a vegetable taste slightly astringent as if by tannin, + something between a potato and a turnip; or its rudely pounded flour is + made into balls with soured milk. This styptic, I am told by Mr. R. B. + Sharpe, of the British Museum, was long supposed to be peculiar to Malta; + hence its pre-Linnaean name (Fungus Melitensis).<a href="#linknote-2" + name="linknoteref-2" id="linknoteref-2"><small>2</small></a> Now it is + known to occur through the Mediterranean to India. Let me here warn future + collectors of botany in Midian that throughout the land the vegetable + kingdom follows the rule of the mineral: every march shows something new; + and he who neglects to gather specimens, especially of the smaller + flowers, in one valley, will perhaps find none of them in those adjoining. + </p> + <p> + A denser row of trees lower down the Wady Hujayl led to the water of Amdán + (Mídán?), about an hour and a half from our last nighting-place; yesterday + it had been reported six hours distant. High towering on our left (north) + rose three huge buttresses of the Girágir. In front stood a marvellous + background of domes and arches, cones and ninepins, all decayed Hismá, + blurred and broken by the morning mist, which could hardly be called a + fog; and forming a perspective of a dozen distances. Now they curve from + north-east to south-west in a kind of scorpion's tail, with detached + vertebrae torn and wasted by the adjacent plutonic outcrops; and looking + from the west they suggest blood-red islets rising above the great gloomy + waves of trap and porphyry. This projection will remain in sight until we + reach Shuwák; and in places we shall see it backed by the basalts and + lavas of the straightlined Harrah. + </p> + <p> + Presently turning sharp to the right (south-east), we struck across a + second divide, far more shallow than the first; and fell into the northern + basin of the great Dámah valley, also known as El-Rahabah, "the Open;"—the + Rehoboth ("spaces") of the Hebrews. Like yesterday's, the loose red sand + is Hismá; and it is also scattered with Harrah lava. After a four hours' + ride we halted to enable the caravan to come up. Our Shaykhs were bent + upon making twelve miles the average day's work; and their "little game" + was now to delay as much as possible. Here we again found flocks of sheep + and goats tended by young girls, who ran away like ostriches, and by old + women who did not: on the contrary, Sycorax enjoyed asking the news and + wrangling over a kid. The camels throughout this country seem to be always + under the charge of men or boys. + </p> + <p> + Here began our study of the great Wady Da'mah, whose fame as an Arabian + Arcadia extends far and wide, and whose possession has caused many a + bloody battle. We now see it at its best, in early spring morning, when + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "The landscape smiles + Calm in the sun, and silent are the hills + And valleys, and the blue serene of air." +</pre> + <p> + This notable feature is a Haddúdah ("frontier divider"), which in ancient + days separated the ‘Ukbíyyah ("Ukbah-land") to the north from the + Balawi'yyah ("Baliyy-land") south. The latter still claim it as their + northern limit; but the intrusive Egypto-Arabs have pushed their way far + beyond this bourne. Its present Huwayti owners, the Sulaymiyyín, the + Sulaymát, the Jeráfín, and other tribes, are a less turbulent race than + the northerns because they are safe from the bandit Ma'ázah: they are more + easily managed, and they do not meet a fair offer with the eternal Yaftah + ‘Allah—"Allah opens."<a href="#linknote-3" name="linknoteref-3" + id="linknoteref-3"><small>3</small></a> + </p> + <p> + The head of the Dámah, a great bay in the Hismá-wall to the east, is now + in sight of us; and we shall pass its mouth, which debouches into the sea + below Zibá. This tract is equally abundant in herds (camels), flocks, and + vegetation: in places a thin forest gathers, and the tree-clumps now form + a feature in the scenery. The sole, a broad expanse of loose red + arenaceous matter, the washings of the plateau, is fearfully burrowed and + honeycombed; it is also subject, like its sister the Sadr, to the frequent + assault of "devils," or sand-pillars. That it is plentifully supplied with + water, we learn from the presence of birds. The cries of the caravane, the + "knock-kneed" plover of Egypt, yellow-beaked and black-eyed, resounded in + the more barren belts. A lovely little sun-bird (Nectarinia oseœ?), which + the Frenchmen of course called colibri, with ravishing reflections of + green and gold, flashed like a gem thrown from shrub to shrub: this oiseau + mouche is found scattered throughout Midian; we saw it even about + El-Muwaylah, but I had unfortunately twice forgotten dust-shot. The + Egyptian Rakham (percnopter), yellow with black-tipped wings; a + carrion-eater, now so rare, and the common brown kite, still so common + near civilized Cairo, soared in the sky; while the larger vultures, + perching upon the rock-ridges, suggested Bedawi sentinels. The ravens, + here as elsewhere, are a plague: flights of them occupy favourite places, + and they prey upon the young lambs, hares, and maimed birds. + </p> + <p> + We advanced another five miles, and crossed to the southern side of the + actual torrent-bed, whose banks, strewed with a quantity of dead + flood-wood entangling the trees, and whose flaky clays, cracked to the + shape of slabs and often curling into tubes of natural pottery, show that + at times the Hismá must discharge furious torrents. We camped close to the + Dámah at the foot of the Jebel el-Balawi; the water, known as Máyat + el-Jebayl ("of the Hillock"), lay ahead in a low rocky snout: it was + represented as being distant a full hour, and the mules did not return + from it till three had passed; but thirty minutes would have been nearer + the truth. The Nile-drinkers turned up their fastidious noses at the + supply, but Lieutenant Amir, who had graduated in the rough + campaigning-school of the Súdán, pronounced it "regular." + </p> + <p> + The nighting-place on the Dámah was as pretty and picturesque as the Majrá + was tame and uncouth. While the west was amber clear, long stripes of + purpling, crimson, flaming cloud, to the south and the east, set off the + castled crags disposed in a semicircle round the Wady-head; and the + "buildings" appeared art-like enough to be haunted ground, the domain of + the Fata Morgana, a glimpse of the City of Brass built by Shaddaá, son of + ‘Ad. When the stars began to glitter sharp and clear, our men fell to + singing and dancing; and the boy Husayn Ganinah again distinguished + himself by his superior ribaldry. Our work was more respectable and + prosaic, firing a mule with a swollen back. + </p> + <p> + Within a mile or so of us stood some Bedawi tents, which we had passed on + the march: they were deserted by the men, here Sulaymát, who drive their + camels to the wilds sometimes for a week at a time. An old wife who + brought us a goat for sale, and who begged that Husayn, the Básh-Buzúk, + might pass the night with her, in order to shoot an especially + objectionable wolf, had a long tale to tell of neighbouring ruins. She + also reported that near the same place there is a well with steps, into + which the Arabs had descended some seven fathoms; presently they found + houses occupying the galleries at the bottom, and fled in terror. + </p> + <p> + Lieutenant Amir was sent to sketch and survey the site next morning; and + he was lucky enough to be guided by one Sa'id bin Zayfullah, the Sulaymi, + whose prime dated from the palmy days of the great Mohammed Ali Pasha. He + acknowledged as his friends the grandfather, and even the father, of our + guide Furayj; but the latter he ignored, looking upon him as a mere Walad + ("lad"). Moreover, he remembered the birth of Shaykh Mohammed ‘Afnán, + chief of the Baliyy, which took place when he himself had already become a + hunter of the gazelle.<a href="#linknote-4" name="linknoteref-4" + id="linknoteref-4"><small>4</small></a> According to him, the remains are + still known as the Dár ("house") or Diyár ("houses") El-Nasárá—"of + the Nazarenes," that is, of the Nabathaeans. The former term is retained + here, as in Sinai, by popular tradition; and the latter is clean forgotten + throughout Midian.<a href="#linknote-5" name="linknoteref-5" + id="linknoteref-5"><small>5</small></a> + </p> + <p> + Riding down the Wady Dámah to the southwest, Lieutenant Amir came upon a + spring in a stone-revetted well near the left bank: this Ayn el-Bada' is + not to be confounded with the Badí' water, or with the Badá plain, both of + which we shall presently visit. A strew of broken quartz around it showed + the atelier, and specimens of scattered fragments, glass and pottery, were + gathered. The settlement-ruins, which the guide called El-Kantarah, lie + further down upon a southern influent of the main line: they are divided + into two blocks, one longer than the other. Lieutenant Amir made a careful + plan of the remains, and then pushed forward to Shuwák by the direct + track, westward of that taken by the caravan. He arrived in camp, none the + worse for a well-developed "cropper;" his dromedary had put its foot in a + hole, and had fallen with a suddenness generally unknown to the cameline + race. + </p> + <p> + By way of geographical exercitation, we had all drawn our several plans, + showing, after Arab statement, the lay of Shaghab and Shuwák, the two + ruins which we were about to visit. Nothing could be more ridiculous when + the sketch-maps came to be compared. This was owing to the route following + the three sides of a long parallelogram; whilst the fourth is based upon + the Wady Dámah, causing considerable complication. And, the excursus + ended, all were convinced that we had made much southing, when our + furthest point was not more than five miles south of Zibá (north lat. 27° + 20'). + </p> + <p> + We quitted the great valley at six a.m. (February 28th), and struck up the + Wady Shuwák, an influent that runs northwards to the Dámah's left bank. On + the stony ground above the right side of this Fiumara lay six circles of + stones, disposed in a line from north-east to south-west: they may have + been ruins of Hufrah ("water-pits"). As we rose the Nullah surface was + pied with white flowers, the early growth which here takes the place of + primroses. I had some difficulty in persuading our good friend Furayj, who + had not seen the country for fifteen years, to engage as guide one of the + many Bedawin camel-herds: his course seemed to serpentine like that of an + animal grazing—he said it was intended to show the least stony road—and, + when he pointed with the wave of the maimed right hand, he described an + arc of some 90°. The Sulaymi lad caught the nearest camel, climbed its + sides as you would a tree, and, when the animal set off at a lumbering + gallop, pressed the soles of his feet to the ribs, with exactly the action + of a Simiad; clinging the while, like grim Death, to the hairy hump. + </p> + <p> + After some six miles we attempted a short cut, a gorge that debouched on + the left bank of the Shuwák valley. It showed at once a complete change of + formation: the sides were painted with clays of variegated colours, + crystallized lime and porphyritic conglomerates, tinted mauve-purple as if + by manganese. Further on, the path, striking over broken divides and long + tracts of stony ground, became rough riding: it was bordered by the usual + monotonous, melancholy hills of reddish and greenish trap, whose slaty and + schist-like edges in places stood upright. On the summit of the last Col + appeared the ruins of an outwork, a large square and a central heap of + boulder-stones. Straight in front rose the block that backs our + destination, the Jebel el-Sáni', or "Mountain of the Maker," the artificer + par excellence, that is, the blacksmith: it is so called from a legendary + shoer of horses and mules, who lived there possibly in the days before + Sultán Selim. It is remarkable for its twin peaks, sharp-topped blocks, + the higher to the east, and called by the Bedawin Naghar and Nughayr. The + guides spoke of a furnace near the summit of these remarkable cones; + excellent landmarks which we shall keep in sight during several marches. + At length, after ten miles of slow work, we saw before us, stretched as + upon a map, the broad valley with its pink sands; the Daum-trees, the huge + ‘Ushr or "Apple of Sodom," the fan-palm bush, and the large old Jujubes—here + an invariable sign of former civilization—which informed us that + there lay fair Shuwák. + </p> + <p> + The dull gorge introduced us to what was then a novelty in Midian; but we + afterwards found it upon the cold heights of the Shárr, where it supplied + us with many a dainty dish. This was the Shinnár<a href="#linknote-6" + name="linknoteref-6" id="linknoteref-6"><small>6</small></a> (caccabis), a + partridge as large as a pheasant, and flavoured exactly like the emigrant + from Phasis. + </p> + <p> + The coat, the clock! clock! and the nimble running over the rocks, ever + the favourite haunt, denote the "perdix." The head is black, as in the C. + melanocephala of Abyssinia, and the legs and feet are red like the smaller + "Greek" caccabis that inhabits the Hismá; the male birds have no spurs, + and they are but little larger than their mates. There seems to be no + difficulty in keeping them; we bought a hen and chicks caged at El-Wijh, + but whether they lived or not I neglected to note. Here, too, we learned + the reason why the falcons and the hawks (Falco milvus, F. gentilis, etc.) + are so fierce and so well-fed. The tyrant of the air raises the partridge + or the quail by feinting a swoop, and, as it hurries away screaming aloud, + follows it leisurely at a certain distance. Finally, when the quarry + reaches the place intended—at least, the design so appears—the + falcon stoops and ends the chase. The other birds were ring-doves, + turtles, and the little "butcher" impaling, gaily as a "gallant Turk," its + live victim upon a long thorn. + </p> + <p> + Shuwák, which lies in about north lat. 27° 15', can be no other than the + placed by Ptolemy (vi. 7) in north lat. 26° 15'; and, if so, we must add + one degree to his latitudes, which are sixty miles too low.<a + href="#linknote-7" name="linknoteref-7" id="linknoteref-7"><small>7</small></a> + According to Sprenger ("Alt. Geog.," p. 25), and do not fit into any of + the Alexandrian's routes; and were connected only with their ports + Rhaunathos (M'jirmah?) and Phoenicon Vicus (Zibá?). But both these cities + were large and important centres, both of agriculture and of mining + industry, forming crucial stations on the great Nabathæan highway, the + overland between Leukè Kóme and Petra. The line was kept up by the Moslems + until Sultán Selim's superseded it; and hence the modern look of the + remains which at first astonished us so much. The tradition of the + Hajj-passage is distinctly preserved by the Bedawin; and I have little + doubt that metal has been worked here as lately, perhaps, as the end of + the last century. But by whom, again, deponent ventures not to say, even + to guess. + </p> + <p> + The site of Shuwák is a long island in the broad sandy Wady of the same + name, which, as has been remarked, feeds the Dámah. Its thalweg has + shifted again and again: the main line now hugs the southern or left bank, + under the slopes and folds of the Jebel el-Sáni'; whilst a smaller branch, + on the northern side, is subtended by the stony divide last crossed. At + the city the lay of the valley is from north-east to south-west, and the + altitude is about seventeen hundred feet (aner. 28.28). The head still + shows the castellations of the Hismá. Looking down-stream, beyond the + tree-dotted bed and the low dark hills that divide this basin from the + adjoining Wady to the south, we see the tall grey tops of the Jebel Zigláb + (Zijláb) and of the Shahbá-Gámirah—the "ashen-coloured (Peak) of + Gámirah"—the latter being the name of a valley. Both look white by + the side of the dark red and green rocks; and we shall presently find that + they mark the granite region lying south and seaward of the great trap + formations. We were not sorry to see it again—our eyes were weary of + the gloomy plutonic curtains on either side. + </p> + <p> + At Shuwák we allowed the camels a day of rest, whilst we planned and + sketched, dug into, and described the ruins. A difficulty about + drinking-water somewhat delayed us. The modern wells, like those of the + Haurán, are rudely revetted pits in a bald and shiny bit of clay-plain + below the principal block of ruins: only one in the dozen holds water, and + that has been made Wahsh ("foul") by the torrent sweeping into it heaps of + the refuse and manure strewed around. The lower folds of the Sáni' block + also supply rain-pools; but here, again, the Arabs and their camels had + left their marks. The only drinkable water lies a very long mile down the + southern (left) bank, above the old aqueduct, in a deep and narrow gorge + of trap. The perennial spring, still trickling down the rocks, was dammed + across, as remnants of cement show us, in more places than one. There are + also signs of cut basins, which the barrages above and below once divided + into a series of tanks. Up the rough steps of the bed the camel-men drove + their beasts; and the name of a Gujráti maker, printed upon a sack of + Anglo-Indian canvas, had a curious effect among such Bedawi surroundings. + </p> + <p> + At last we sank a pit some five feet deep in a re-entering angle of the + northern or smaller branch; we lined it with stone down-stream, where the + flow made the loose sand fall in, and we obtained an ample and excellent + supply. Doubtless it was spoiled, as soon as our backs were turned, by the + half-Fellah Jeráfín-Huwaytát, to whom the place belongs. The sea-breeze + during the day was high and dust-laden, but we passed a cool delicious + night upon the clean sweet sand, which does not stick or cling. At this + altitude there is no fear of bugs and fleas—the only dread is Signor + "Pediculus." + </p> + <p> + We will begin, with our surveyors, at the valley head, and note the ruins + as we stroll down. This section, Shuwák proper, is nearly a mile and a + half long, and could hardly have lodged less than twenty thousand souls. + But that extent by no means represents the whole; our next march will + prolong it along the valley for a total of at least four miles. The + material is various—boulders of granite and syenite; squares of trap + and porphyry; the red sandstones of the Hismá; the basalts of the Harrah; + and the rock found in situ, a brown and crumbling grit, modern, and still + in process of agglutination. The heaps and piles which denote buildings + are divided by mounds and tumuli of loose friable soil, white with salt,—miniatures + of Babylon, Nineveh, and Troy. On either flanks of the river-holm the + periodical torrents have done their worst, cutting up the once regular + bank into a succession of clay buttresses. On the right side we find a + large fort, half sliced away, but still showing the concrete flooring of a + tower. About the centre of the length are the remnants of a round Burj; + blocks of buildings, all levelled to the foundations, lie to the + north-west, and on the west appear signs of a square. Perhaps the most + interesting discovery is that of catacombs, proving a civilization + analogous to Magháir Shu'ayb, but ruder, because more distant from the + centre. The "caves" are hollowed in a long reef of loose breccia, which, + fronting eastward, forms the right bank of the smaller branch. They are + now almost obliterated by being turned into sheep-folds; the roofs have + fallen in, and only one preserves the traces of two loculi. + </p> + <p> + The arrangements touching fuel and water in this great metal-working + establishment are on a large scale. The biggest of the Afrán ("furnaces") + lies to the north-west, near the right bank of the valley: all are of the + ordinary type, originally some five or six feet high, to judge from the + bases. They are built of fire-brick, and of the Hismá stone, which faces + itself into a natural latex. We dug deep into several of them; but so + careful had been the workmen, or perhaps those who afterwards ransacked + these places, that not the smallest tear of metal remained: we found only + ashes, pottery, and scoriae, as usual black and green, the latter worked + sub-aerially; many of them had projections like stalactite. Round the + furnaces are strewed carbonate of lime, stained black with iron, like that + of Sharmá; and a quantity of the chlorite-enamelled serpentine still used + in the Brazil as a flux. + </p> + <p> + Quartz was absent, and we were at a loss to divine what stone had been + worked. At last we observed near the catacombs sundry heaps of pinkish + earth, evidently washed out; and our researches in the South Country + afterwards suggested that this may have been the remains of the micaceous + schist, whose containing quartz was so extensively worked at Umm el-Haráb. + Moreover, a short study of Shaghab threw more light on the matter. + </p> + <p> + Water also had been stored up with prodigious labour. We could easily + trace the lines of half a dozen aqueducts, mostly channelled with rough + cement, overlying a fine concrete; some of them had grooved stones to + divert the stream by means of lashers. The Fiskíyyah or "tanks," as + carefully built, were of all sizes; and the wells, which appeared to be + mediaeval, were lined with stones cut in segments of circles: we shall see + the same curve in Sultán Selim's work near Zibá. The greatest feat is an + aqueduct which, sanded over in the upper part, subtends the left side of + the valley. It is carefully but rudely built, and where it crosses a + gully, the "horizontal arch" is formed of projecting stone tiers, without + a sign of key. This magnum opus must date from the days when the southern + part of the Wady was nearly what it is now. + </p> + <p> + About a mile and a quarter below our camp, the Wady, which broadens to a + mile, shows on the left bank a wall measuring a thousand metres long, + apparently ending in a tank of 110 feet each way. Around it are ruined + parallelograms of every size, which in ancient times may have been + workshops connected with the buildings in the island higher up. The + torrents have now washed away the continuation, if ever there was any; + and, though the lower remnants are comparatively safe upon their high + ledge, the holm is evidently fated to disappear. + </p> + <p> + I did not learn till too late that a single day's march southwards from + the Wady Shuwák, along the old main line of traffic, leads to the Wady + Nejd, upon whose upper course is the plain of Badá; and which, after + assuming four different names, falls, as will be seen, into the sea about + thirty-five miles north of El-Wijh. + </p> + <p> + We left Shuwák considerably posed, puzzled, and perplexed by what it had + shown us. A little pottery had been picked up, but our diggings had not + produced a coin or even a bit of glass. The evidences of immense labour + are the more astonishing when compared with the utter absence of what we + call civilization. The Greek and Latin inscriptions of the Hauranic cities + declare their origin: these, absolutely unalphabetic, refuse a single hint + concerning the mysterious race which here lived and worked, and worked so + nobly. And, finally, who were the Moslems that succeeded them in a later + day, when the Hajj-caravan, some three centuries and a half ago, ceased to + march by this road? How is it that the annalists say nothing of them? that + not a vestige of tradition remains concerning any race but the Nazarenes? + </p> + <p> + From Shuwák to the Wady Dámah there are two roads, a direct and an + indirect; the latter passing by the ruins of Shaghab. The caravan begged + hard to take the former, but was summarily refused. At six a.m. we rode + down the Shuwák valley, again noting its huge constructions, and then + striking away from it to the left, we passed over a short divide of brown + hill, where the narrow Pass was marked only by Bedawi graves. The morning + showed a peculiar rainbow, if a bow may be called so when no rain + appeared; a perpendicular stripe, brilliant enough, and lasting at least + twenty minutes. The cloud behind it had no skirt, no droop in fact, no + sign of dissolution; and what made it the stranger was that this + "bull's-eye" lay north of, and not opposite to, but quite near, the rising + sun. We shall note another of these exceptional rainbows at El-Badá.<a + href="#linknote-8" name="linknoteref-8" id="linknoteref-8"><small>8</small></a> + </p> + <p> + After marching some seven miles to the south with westing, we saw inform + heaps to the left: half an hour afterwards, boulder-encircled pits of a + brighter green on the right, the Themáil el-Má ("artificial cisterns") of + the Arabs, announced that we were reaching Shaghab. The caravan punished + us by wasting five hours on the way, in order to force a halt; and by + camping at the wrong place, when I objected to the delay. It brought with + it, however, a fine young Beden (ibex), killed by one of the Bedawin; and + we determined to stuff, to bury, and to bake it, Arab fashion, under the + superintendence of the Básh-Buzúk Husayn. Unfortunately it was served to + us on the next day cold, whereas it should have been eaten at once, piping + hot. The meat was dark, with a beefy rather than a gamey flavour, + palatable, but by no means remarkable. There were loud regrets that a + cuisse de chevreuil had not been marinée; in fact, an infect odour of the + Quartier Latin everywhere followed us; and when a guide told us the + pattern lie, that we should not reach Umm ‘Amir before the fourth day, the + poor "Frogs" croaked, and croaked audibly as dismally. Their last bottle + of ordinaire was finished; Gabr, the Kázi, had come into camp, bearing a + long official Arabic document from Lieutenant Yusuf, but not a single + Journal de Genève; there was no news of a steamer being sent with rations + and forage from Suez: briefly, c'était embetant—to use the milder of + the two favourite synonyms. + </p> + <p> + The ruins of Shaghab are built upon a more complicated site than those of + Shuwák. The position is charming. The Wady Shaghab, flowing to the south, + here spreads out in a broad bulge or basin open to the west. Down-stream + we see a "gate" formed by the meeting of two rocky tongue-tips, both + showing large works. Beyond these narrows the valley bends to the + south-west and feeds the Wady Aznab, which falls into the sea south of the + Dámah. The mass of the ruined city lies upon the left bank, where a high + and artificial-looking remblai of earth masks an eastern influent, the + Wady el-Aslah (Athlah), or "of the Kali-plant." It drains the mountain of + the same name, and the Jebel Zigláb (Zijláb), the cones of pale granite + visible from Shuwák; and upon its broad mouth the old settlement stood à + cheval. A little north of west rises profiled the great Shárr, no longer a + ridge with a coping of four horns, but a tall and portly block, from whose + summit spring heads and peaks of airy blue-pink. Slightly east of north + the twins Naghar and Nughayr, combining to form the "Mountain of the + Maker" (Jebel el-Sáni'), tower in the shape of a huge pyramid. Lastly, a + regular ascent, the Majrá el-Wághir, fronts the city, sloping up to the + west-north-west, and discloses a view of the Jibál el-Tihámah: this broad + incline was, some three centuries ago, the route of the Hajj-caravan. + </p> + <p> + We walked down the Shaghab valley-bed, whose sides, like those of the + Dámah, are chevaux de frise of dead wood. The characteristic rock is a + conglomerate of large and small stones, compacted by hard silicious paste, + and stained mauve-purple apparently by manganese: we had seen it on the + way to Shuwák; and the next day's march will pave the uplands with it. The + wells in the sole are distinctly Arab, triangular mouths formed and kept + open by laying down tree-trunks, upon which the drawer of water safely + stands. On the right bank up-stream no ruins are perceptible; those on the + left are considerable, but not a quarter the size of Shuwák. Here again + appear the usual succession of great squares: the largest to the east + measures 500 metres along the sides; and there are three others, one of + 400 metres by 192. They are subtended by one of many aqueducts, whose + walls, two feet thick, showed no signs of brick: it is remarkable for + being run underground to pierce a hillock; in fact, the system is rather + Greek or subterranean, than Roman or subaerial. Further down are the + remains apparently of a fort: heaps of land-shells lie about it; they are + very rare in this region, and during our four months' march we secured + only two species.<a href="#linknote-9" name="linknoteref-9" + id="linknoteref-9"><small>9</small></a> + </p> + <p> + Still descending, we found the ancient or mediaeval wells, numbering about + a dozen, and in no wise differing from those of Shuwák. At the gorge, + where the Wady escapes from view, Lieutenant Amir planned buildings on the + lower right bank, and on the left he found a wall about half a mile long, + with the remains of a furnace and quartz scattered about it. This stone + had reappeared in large quantities, the moment we crossed the divide; the + pale grey of the Jebel Zigláb and its neighbours was evidently owing to + its presence; and from this point it will be found extending southwards + and seawards as far as El-Hejaz. He brought with him a hard white stone + much resembling trachyte, and fragments of fine green jasper. + </p> + <p> + A cursory inspection of Shaghab removed some of the difficulties which had + perplexed us at Shuwák and elsewhere. In the North Country signs of + metal-working, which was mostly confined to the Wadys, have been generally + obliterated; washed away or sanded over. Here the industry revealed itself + without mistake. The furnaces were few, but around each one lay heaps of + Negro and copper-green quartz, freshly fractured; while broken handmills + of basalt and lava, differing from the rubstones and mortars of a softer + substance, told their own tale. + </p> + <p> + At Shaghab, then, the metalliferous "Marú" brought from the adjacent + granitic mountains was crushed, and then transported for roasting and + washing to Shuwák, where water, the prime necessary in these lands, must + have been more abundant. Possibly in early days the two settlements formed + one, the single of Ptolemy; and the south end would have been the + headquarters of the wealthy. Hence the Bedawin always give it precedence—Shaghab + wa Shuwák; moreover, we remarked a better style of building in the former; + and we picked up glass as well as pottery. + </p> + <p> + As a turkey buzzard (vulture) is the fittest emblem for murderous Dahome, + so I should propose for Midian, now spoiled and wasted by the Wild Man, a + broken handmill of basalt upon a pile of spalled Negro quartz. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XII. —From Shaghab to Zibá—ruins of El-Khandakí' and + Umm Ámil—the Turquoise Mine–Return to El-Muwaylah. + </h2> + <p> + Leaving Lieutenant Amir to map the principal ruins, we followed the + caravan up the Majrá el-Wághir, the long divide rising to the + west-north-west. The thin forest reminded me of the wooded slopes of the + Anti-Libanus about El-Kunaytarah: there, however, terebinths and holm-oaks + take the place of these unlovely and uncomfortable thorn-trees. They are + cruelly beaten—an operation called El-Ramá—by the Bedawi + camel-man, part of whose travelling kit, and the most important part too, + here as in Sinai, is the flail (Murmár or Makhbat) and the mat to receive + the leaves: perhaps Acacias and Mimosas are not so much bettered by + "bashing" as the woman, the whelp, and the walnut-tree of the good old + English proverb. After three miles we passed, on the left, ruins of long + walls and Arab Wasm, with white memorial stones perched on black. In front + rose the tall Jebel Tulayh, buttressing the right or northern bank of the + Dámah; and behind it, stained faint-blue by distance, floated in the + flickering mirage the familiar forms of the Tihámah range, a ridge now + broken into half a dozen blocks. I had ordered the caravan to march upon + the Tuwayl el-Súk; but, after one hour and fifteen minutes, we found the + tents pitched some three miles short of it, on a bleak and ugly wave of + the Wághir. The Shaykhs swore, by all holy things, that this was the + veritable Tuwayl; and a Bedawi, who declared that he knew where water lay + in the neighbourhood, refused to show it sans the preliminary "bakhshísh." + Mashallah! It is a noble race. + </p> + <p> + Early next morning (six a.m., March 3rd) we followed the right bank of the + Wady el-Khandakí, which runs north with westing. Beyond it lay the + foot-hills of gloomy trap leading to the Jebel el-Raydán, a typical + granitic form, a short demi-pique saddleback with inwards-sloping pommel + like the Pao d'Assucar of picturesque Rio de Janeiro. Here as elsewhere, + the granites run parallel with and seaward of the traps. The Tuwayl el-Súk + is nothing but an open and windy flat, where the Hajj-caravan used to camp + an adjoining ridge, the Hamrá el-Tuwayl, shows spalled quartz, Wasm and + memorial stones. The principal formation here is the mauve-purple + conglomerate before described. + </p> + <p> + After riding nine miles we came unexpectedly upon a large and curious + ruin, backed by the broad Wady Dámah gleaming white in the sun. The first + feature noticed was a pair of parallel walls, or rather their foundations, + thirty-five feet apart, and nearly a kilometre in length: it looked like a + vast hangar. To the left lie three tracings of squares; the central is a + work of earth and stone, not unlike a rude battery; and, a few paces + further north, a similar fort has a cistern attached to its western + curtain. Heaps of rounded boulders, and the crumbling white-edged mounds + which, in these regions, always denote old habitations, run down the right + bank of the Wady el-Khandakí to its junction with the Dámah. For want of a + better name I called this old settlement Kharábát (the "Ruins of") + el-Khandakí, and greatly regretted that we had not time enough to march + down the whole line of the Dámah. + </p> + <p> + Half an hour more placed us at the great Wady, whose general direction is + here west with a little southing, and which still merits its fame as an + Arabian Arcadia. The banks were thickly bordered with secular tamarisks + (T. orientalis), those hardy warriors with the Hebrew-Arabic name Asl + (Athl), that battle against wind and weather, as successfully at + Dovercourt (Essex) as at Haydarábád (Sind). + </p> + <p> + The tint was the normal grey-green, not unlike that of the traps in + arrière plan. The clumps sheltered goats, sheep, and camels; and our mules + now revel every day on green meat, growing fatter and fatter upon the + Aristida grass, the Panicum, the Hordeum murinum, and the Bromus of many + varieties. Fronting us rose the twin granitic peaks of Jebel Mutadán, one + with a stepped side like an unfinished pyramid. They are separated from + the Dámah by a rough and stony divide; and ruins with furnaces are + reported to be found in their valley-drain, which feeds the great Wady + ‘Amúd. + </p> + <p> + We halted, after some sixteen to seventeen miles, at the water El-Ziyayb, + slightly brackish but relished by our animals; and resumed our way in the + cool sea-breeze at one p.m., passing the Jebel Tulayh on the north bank. + The track then left the Dámah and turned up a short broad bed to the + north-west. On the right rose a block of syenite, ruddy with orthose, all + rounded lumps and twisted finials; it discharged a quantity of black sand + that streaked the gravel plain. At four p.m. we camped on a broad divide, + El-Kutayyifah, where an adjacent Sha'b, or "fold," supplied fresh + rain-water. The march had teen long (seven hours = twenty-two miles); and + Shaykhs and camel-men looked, the Sayyid said, as if they had "smelt + Jehannum." + </p> + <p> + This divide, also called the Jayb el Sa'lúwwah, with granites to the east, + and traps mixed with granites on the west, shows signs of labour. Hard by, + to the south-west, some exceptionally industrious Bedawi, of the + Jeráfín-Huwaytát, had laid out a small field with barley. In the evening + we walked westward to the hills that bound the slope; and came upon a + rock-cut road leading to an atalier, where "Marú" has been spalled from + the stone in situ. Some specimens had a light-bluish tinge, as if stained + by cobalt, a metal found in several slags; and there were veins of + crystalline amethyst-quartz, coloured, said the engineer by chlorure of + silver (?). The filons and filets cut the granite in all directions; and + the fiery action of frequent trap-dykes had torn the ground-rock to + tatters. The western side of El-Kutayyifah also showed modern ruins. + </p> + <p> + The guides reported, as usual when too late, that to the west-south-west + lies a Nakb, called Abú'l Marwah ("Father of the Quartz-place"), whose + waters flow viâ the Mutadán to the ‘Amúd valley. For some days I had cold + shudders lest this Pass, thus left unvisited, might be the Zúl-Marwah, the + classical "Móchoura," one of the objects of our Expedition. The alarm + proved, however, as will be seen, false. A Bedawi youth also volunteered a + grand account of three "written stones;" a built well surrounded by broken + quartz; and, a little off the road from El-Kutayyifah to Umm Ámil, the + remains of El-Dayr ("the Convent"). As Leake well knew, the latter is "a + name which is often indiscriminately applied by the Arabs to ancient + ruins." The lad said they were close by, but the Garíb ("near") and the + Gurayyib ("nearish") of the Midianite much resemble the Egyptian Fellah's + Taht el-Wish, "Under the face"—we should say "nose"—or Taht + el-Ka'b, "Under the heel." They may mean a handful of miles. As he refused + to guide us, we secured the services of an old shepherd, who, objecting to + sleep in camp, caused abundant trouble and delay next morning. + </p> + <p> + From this divide two roads lead to the ruins of Umm Ámil: one makes a + considerable detour up a branch-valley in order to avoid an ugly Pass on + the direct line. I again refused the camel-men permission to proceed by + the indirect route, well knowing that they would do their best to miss us. + On March 4th, at six a.m., a long descent and a similar rise led us to a + Col, which presently became a broad open plain, 2100 feet above sea-level + (aner. 28.85). Tents were scattered about the valleys; the lads tended + their goats, and we greatly admired one fellow who had fallen asleep in + the hot ascending steams. Here the old guide halted us, and declared that + on the top of the dark trap-block the left (south) was a Mashghal, or + "work-place," with a strew of quartz and nothing else. Thus ended the + "built well." Descending to a lower plane, bounded in front by low rolling + hills, I sent Lieutenant Amir to examine the "Convent" and the "written + stones." He came up with us at the halt; having been led over a rough + divide by an abominable path; and he had seen only a few ruined heaps and + three Arab Wusúm. Moreover, he had not dared to show disappointment before + the old shepherd, who would probably have bolted in fear, and left him to + find his own way. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile the caravan continued its course down the broad smooth Wady + Ruways, on whose left side was a large atelier, with broken walls and + spalled quartz of the Negro variety. Here we found, for the first time, + the handmills made of the hardest grey granite, so beautifully worked + further south; they explained the fine and carefully polished tube which + had been brought to the first Expedition at Zibá.<a href="#linknote-10" + name="linknoteref-10" id="linknoteref-10"><small>10</small></a> Several of + these articles were all but whole, an exception in this land of "‘clasts." + We then struck over the stony divide to the left, towards a fine landmark—a + Khitm, or "block," shaped like a seal cut en cabochon: its name is the + barbarous sounding Khurm el-Badaríyyah. During the ascent, which was easy, + we passed a second strew and scatter of the white stone broken into small + pieces. From the Col, reached at 9.45 a.m., a descent, vile for camels not + for mules, presently landed us in the Wady Umm Ámil. The left bank of the + hideous narrow gorge showed a line of wells or water-pits, made, said + Furayj, by the Mutakaddimín (veteres),—the Ancients who were + probably Mediævals. Crossing the torrent-gully we left on its right bank + the ruins of large works, especially the upper parallelogram. After a + thirteen miles' ride we halted at 10.40 a.m. under a rock on the left + side, opposite three couthless heaps of water-rolled stones surrounded by + fine quartz. By far the poorest thing we had yet seen, this "town" had + been grandiosely described to the first Expedition at Zibá. Many blessings + were heaped upon the head of Ámil and his mother: the name, however, as + the Sayyid suggested, is evidently a corruption of Mu'ámil—"the + workman, the employee."<a href="#linknote-11" name="linknoteref-11" + id="linknoteref-11"><small>11</small></a> I would conjecture that here the + slave-miners were stationed, Old Zibá being the master's abode: our + caravan entitled it El-Lomán—"the bagnio, the prison for galériens." + On the coast-town I procured some specimens of heavy red copper which had + been dug out of a ruined furnace; the metal is admirable, and it retrieves + to a certain extent the lost reputation of Umm Ámil. + </p> + <p> + At noon we resumed a hot ride down the ugly, rocky watercourse, both of + whose banks showed long lines of ruins. Presently, crossing a divide + marked by two stone-heaps, we fell into the broader but equally + unpicturesque Wady Salmá. It is on about the same parallel as Ziba' (north + lat. 27° 20'); and more than the usual allowance for the error of low + latitude must be admitted if we would identify it with the Mediterranean + of Ptolemy (vi. 7), , in north lat. 260°, or fifteen miles south of Sóaka. + </p> + <p> + Wady Salmá is the smallest and the northernmost of the three basins which + we have just visited; the central being the Dámah, and the southern Wady + Shaghab-Aslah-Aznab. Steaming southwards we shall note the mouths of all + these watercourses. We presently passed on the right bank the debouchure + of the Wady Ruways, and left there a guard to direct the caravan, in case + it should disobey orders, and march up to Umm Ámil. Here the valley gave + forage to a herd of milch-camels, apparently unguarded; each had her foal, + some newborn, others dating from January or February. After one hour and + forty-five minutes (= six miles) we camped on the fine sands that floor + the dull line hemmed in by tall masses of red and green trap. The adjacent + scatter of Arab wells in the bed is known as the Má el-Badí'ah. I + carefully inquired concerning ruins in the neighbourhood; and we climbed + the torrent-sides to command a (very limited) bird's-eye view of the + hills. According to the guides, there are no remains of the "old ones" + nearer than Umm Ámil + </p> + <p> + Setting out early next morning (5.45 a.m., March 5th), after half an hour + down the Wady Salmá, we saw its lower course becoming a mere gorge, + constricted by two opposite rocks. On the left bank, above this narrow, + lies a group of Arab graves, which may have been built upon older + foundations. The right side here receives the Wady Haraymal ("Little + Peganum-plant"), the Haráímil of the broad-speaking Bedawin. As we struck + up its dull ascent, the southern form of the Shárr-giant suddenly broke + upon us, all glorious in his morning robes of ethereal gauzy pink. The + foreshortened view, from the south as well as the north, shows a compact + prism-formed mass which has been compared with an iceberg. The main peak, + Abú Shenázir, here No. 4 from the north, proudly bears a mural crown of + granite towers, which it hides from El-Muwaylah; and the southern end, a + mere vanishing ridge at this angle, but shown en face to the seaboard + abreast of it, breaks into three distinctly marked bluffs and heads.<a + href="#linknote-12" name="linknoteref-12" id="linknoteref-12"><small>12</small></a> + </p> + <p> + A divide then led upwards and downwards to the Wady Abá Rikayy, remarkable + only for warm pools, and crystal-clear runners, springing from the sole. + The fringings of white show the presence of salt; the shallows are covered + with the greenest mosses, and beetles chase one another over the depths + where the waters sleep. The lower course takes the name of Wady Kifáfí, + and discharges into the sea north of the Wady Salmá, with which it has + erroneously been united, as in Niebuhr's Selmá wa Kafâfa. According to the + Kátib Chelebi, who, over two centuries ago, made the "Kabr Shaykh + el-Kifáfí" the second pilgrim-station south of El-Muwaylah, a certain + Bedawi chief, El-Kifáfí, was killed with a spear, and his tomb became a + place of pious visitation. It is said still to exist between the Wadys + Salmá and Kifáfí. A third divide to the north led along the eastern flank + of the Jebel Abú Rísh, which exposes its head to the sea; and, reaching + the Col, we had the pleasure of once more greeting the blue cove that + forms the port of Zibá. + </p> + <p> + We then descended into the Wady Sidrah, whose left bank is formed by the + Safrá Zibá—"the Yellow (hill) of Zibá." This small outlying peak is + clad in the gaudiest of colours, especially a vivid citron-yellow, set off + by red and rusty surroundings, which are streaked with a dead + chalky-white. The citizens declare that it is absolutely useless, because + it does not supply sulphur. During our day's halt at Zibá, M. Marie + brought from it quartz of several kinds; the waxy, the heat-altered, and + the blue, stained with carbonate of copper. Possibly this metal may be + abundant at a lower horizon + </p> + <p> + The "Valley of the (one) Jujube-tree," after narrowing to a stony gut, + suddenly flares out into the Wady Zibá, the vulgar feature of these + regions, provided with the normal "Gate" some three hundred yards broad. + Beyond it, the flat surrounding the head of the cove is remarkably well + grown with palms, clumps of the Daum, and scattered date-trees, of which + one is walled round. Hence I am disposed to consider Zibá the , or + Phoenicon Vicus, of Ptolemy: although he places it in north lat. 26° 20', + or between Sharm Dumayghah and El-Wijh, when it lies in north lat. 27° + 20'. I have already protested against the derivation of the word—which + is written "Dhoba" by Wallin, "Deba" by Niebuhr, and "Zibber" by the + Hydrographic Chart—proposed by my learned friend Sprenger.<a + href="#linknote-13" name="linknoteref-13" id="linknoteref-13"><small>13</small></a> + His theory was probably suggested by El-Yákút (iii. 464), who, in the + twelfth century, describes "Dhabba" as "a village on the coast, opposite + to which is a settlement with flowing water, called Badá: the two are + separated by seventy miles." An older name for the station is Bir + el-Sultáni—the "Well of the Sultán" (Selim?): we shall presently + inspect these remains. Itineraries also give Kabr el-Tawáshi, "the + Eunuch's Tomb;" and this we still find near the palms at the head of the + inner baylet. It is a square measuring six paces each way, mud and + coralline showing traces of plaster outside. Like Wellsted (II. X.) we + failed to discover any sign of the Birkat ("tank") mentioned in a + guide-book which Burckhardt quotes; nor had the citizens ever heard of a + "reservoir." + </p> + <p> + The camping-ground of the pilgrims lies between the "Gate" and the + cove-head. Around the wells sat at squat a small gathering of the filthy + "Moghrebin" (Allah yakharrib-hum!). About 260 of these rufffians were + being carried gratis, by some charitable merchant, in a Sambúk that lay at + the harbour-mouth. A party had lately slaughtered a camel, of course not + their own property; and yet they wondered that the Bedawin shoot them. + They showed their insolence by threatening with an axe the dog Juno, when + she sportively sallied out to greet them; and were highly offended + because, in view of cholera and smallpox, I stationed sentries to keep + them at a distance. Had there been contagious disease among them, it would + have spread in no time. They haunted the wells, which were visited all day + by women driving asses from the settlement; even the single old beggar of + Zibá—unfailing sign of civilization—was here; and the black + tents of the Arabs, who grazed their flocks at the cove-head, lay within + easy shot of infection. On the evening of the next day, when the Sambúk + made sail, the shouting and screaming, the brawling, cudgelling, and + fighting, heard a mile off, reminded me of the foul company of Maghrabís + on board the Golden Wire. + </p> + <p> + "Sultán Selim's Well" has now grown to four, all large and masonry-lined. + That to the south-east is dry; travellers are confined to the western, + whose strong coping they have managed to tear down; whilst the northern + shows hard old kerb-stones, deeply grooved and rope-channelled like that + of Beersheba. We breakfasted at the head of the inner bay, whilst the + Sayyid rode forward to meet his brother Mahmúd, who had kindly brought us + the news from El-Muwaylah. Here we could see the townlet covering a low + point projecting into the Sharm; a few large and some small tenements + formed the body, whilst the head was the little Burj built, some fourteen + years ago, upon the tall sea-bank to the north. It bore, by way of + welcome, the Viceroy's flag. + </p> + <p> + The camp was pitched upon the northern shore of the inner cove, behind the + new town, and sheltered by the tall sea-cliff: here stood Old Zibá, whose + stones, buried for ages under the sand, are now dug up to build its + successor. I thought better of the settlement and of the port after + visiting them a second time. We had looked forward to it even as to a + petit Paris: so Damascus and the Syrian cities appear centres of + civilization to Westerns coming from the East—not from the West. It + is far superior, especially in the article water, to El-Muwaylah; it + exports charcoal in large quantities, and it does a thriving business with + the Bedawi. Here are signs of a pier, and a mosque is to be built. The + fish is excellent and abundant; lobsters are caught by night near the + reef, and oysters in the bay when the tide is out. We succeeded, at last, + in having our batterie de cuisine properly tinned, and we replenished our + stores.<a href="#linknote-14" name="linknoteref-14" id="linknoteref-14"><small>14</small></a> + As at El-‘Akabah, "Hashísh" may be bought in any quantity, but no ‘Ráki—hence, + perhaps, the paleness and pastiness of the local complexion—and yet + our old acquaintance, Mohammed el-Musalmáni, is a Copt who finds it + convenient to be a Moslem. He aided us in collecting curiosities, + especially a chalcedony (agate) intended for a talisman and roughly + inscribed in Kufic characters, archaic and pointed like Bengali, with the + Koranic chapter (xcii.) that testifies the Unity, "Kul, Huw' Allah," etc. + As regards the port, Wellsted (Il. X.) is too severe upon it: "At Sherm + Dhobá the anchorage is small and inconvenient, and could only be made + available for boats or small vessels." Dredging the sand-bar and cutting a + passage in the soft coralline reef will give excellent shelter and, some + say, a depth of seventeen fathoms. + </p> + <p> + Our first care was to walk straight into the sea, travelling clothes and + all. I then received the notables, including Mohammed Selámah of El-Wijh, + and at once began to inquire about the Jebel el-Fayrúz. The chief trader + pleaded ignorance: he was a stranger, a new-comer; he had never been out + of the settlement. The others opposed to me hard and unmitigated Iying: + they knew nothing about turquoises; there were no such stones; the mines + were exhausted. + </p> + <p> + And yet I knew that this coast is visited for turquoises by Europeans; and + that the gem has been, and still is, sold at Suez and Cairo. Mr. Clarke + had many uncut specimens at Zagázig, embedded in a dark gangue, which he + called "porphyry," as opposed to the limestone which bears the silicate of + copper. Upon our first Expedition, we had noticed a splendid specimen, set + in a Bedawi matchlock; and the people of El-‘Akabah praised highly the + produce of the Jebel el-Ghál. Lastly, I happened to have heard that an + Arab lately brought to Zibá a turquoise which sold there for £3. Evidently + the mine, like the gold-sands before alluded to, would be carefully hidden + from us. This reticence explained how, on our first visit, the two + Staff-officers sent to prospect the diggings had been misdirected to a + block lying north of the townlet, the "Red Hills," alias the Jebel + el-Shegayg. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after I left Egypt an Italian, Sig. F—, returned to Suez + from El-Muwaylah, with some fine pearls worth each from £20 to £30, and + turquoises which appeared equally good. He was then bound for Italy, but + he intended returning to Midian in a month or two. These are the men who + teach the ready natives the very latest "dodges;" such as stimulating the + peculiar properties of the pearl-oyster by inserting grains of sand. + </p> + <p> + I also collected notes concerning the ruins of M'jirmah, of which we had + heard so many tales. The site, they said, is a branch of the Wady Azlam, + the first of the three marches between Zibá and El-Wijh, and seven and a + half hours' sail along the coast. This watercourse shows, above the modern + Hajj-station, the ruins of a fort built by Sultán Selim: Wellsted (II. X.) + also mentions a castle lying three miles inland. From the head of the + Sharm Dumayghah, seventy to seventy-two knots south of El-Muwaylah, Shaykh + Furayj pointed out to us the pale-blue peaks of the Jebel Zafar:<a + href="#linknote-15" name="linknoteref-15" id="linknoteref-15"><small>15</small></a> + in the upper part of its Wady, the ‘Amúd Zafar, a southern branch valley + of the Azlam, lies the ruin. He made it six hours' march from the + seaboard. It was an ancient gold-mine (?), whose house-foundations and a + "well with steps" still remain. "M'jirmah," which must not be confounded + with the "Umm Jirmah," an atelier that we shall visit to-morrow, has been + identified with the (Rhaunathi Pagus) of Ptolemy (north lat. 25° 40'). We + will return to this subject when steaming down coast. + </p> + <p> + Our day of rest ended, at seven p.m., with a heavy storm of wind and rain + from the north: the sun had been unusually hot for some days, and the sky + looked ugly in the evening. As usual, all assured us that the clouds + contained wind, not rain. Despite which, when the mess-tent had been + nearly blown down, owing to our men being unwilling to leave their warm + retreats, a heavy drenching downfall set in, and continued till eleven + p.m. After a short lull, wind and rain again raged at midnight; and then + the gale gradually blew itself out. The next two mornings were + delightfully brisk and bracing; and deep puddles dotted the rocks. + </p> + <p> + On March 7th the caravan marched straight northwards, by the Hajj-road, + along the shore to its camping-ground, an affair of two hours, while M. + Marie and I set off for the turquoise mine. Furayj, who had never passed + that way, engaged as guide one Sulaym el-Makrafi; and this old + dromedary-rider's son had been sent on to bring into camp all the Fayruz + he could find. Crossing at six a.m. the broad pilgrim-track, we struck + eastward at a place where the Secondary gypsum subtends the old coralline + cliff. After three-quarters of an hour, we traversed the Wady Zahakán, the + southernmost Pass over the Shárr (proper); and presently we ascended a + branch that falls into the right bank. As we advanced, it became a + rock-walled, stonesoled tunnel; winding, contracting and widening, rising + and flattening, and generally interesting, compared with the dull flat + breadth of such features as the Wady Salmá. The overfalls of rock and the + unfriendly thorn-trees, selfishly taking up all the room, necessitate + frequent zigzags up and down the rocky, precipitous banks. After a number + of divides we entered the Wady Háskshah, which was wider and good for + riding; and at 8.30 a.m. we passed into the Wady Umm Jirmah. + </p> + <p> + In this broad basin we found none of the ruins so often reported; but + immense quantities of broken quartz showed the Mashghal or atelier. The + material was distinguished, from all the outcrops hitherto observed, by + its pretty pink, stained with oxide of iron: it appeared in large + ramifications mostly striking east-west, and in little pitons dotting the + valley sole and sides. A subsequent visit to Wady Umm Jirmah found many + furnaces surrounded by well-worked scoriae; of these, specimens were + secured. + </p> + <p> + After another half-hour, we dismounted at the watershed of the Wady + el-Ghál, where the old guide lost no time in losing his head. The Jebel + el-Ghál, whose folds fall into its watercourse, is a detached block, + rising nearly due south of the "Sharp Peak," as the Chart calls Abú + Kusayb, the northernmost horn of the Shárr; while the Ghál cove, breaking + the sea-cliff, bears 270° (mag.) from the summit. The hill, which may + measure 250 feet above sea-level (aner. 29.75), is composed of porphyritic + trap and of the hardest felspars, veined with chocolate-coloured quartz, + the true gangue. While we examined the formation, Furayj and old Sulaym, + who became more and more "moony," ransacked the block in all directions, + and notably failed to find a trace of mining. Evidently Athor, the genius + of the "Turquoise Mountain," was not to be conquered by a coup de main; so + I determined to tire her out. + </p> + <p> + After building a stone-man on the finial of the Jebel el-Ghál, and a short + rest in the north-western Wady, we remounted and struck seawards. Some + ugly divides led us, after half an hour, to a broad Fiumara, well grown + with palm-bush, the veritable Wady el-Ghál. From this point a total of + four miles, and a grand total of fourteen, led us to the camp: it had been + pitched at the Mahattat el-Gha'l, on the north bank, where the + "winter-torrent," falling into the cove, has broken through the sea cliff. + </p> + <p> + Here the best of news was in store for us. Lieutenant Yusuf, who had this + morning rejoined the Expedition, brought our mails from the Sambúk, which + I had ordered by letter at El-‘Akabah; and reported that his Highness's + frigate Sinnár, an old friend, would relieve the lively Mukhbir in taking + us to our last journey southwards. Rations for men and mules, and supplies + for ourselves, all were coming. We felt truly grateful to the Viceroy and + the Prince Minister for the gracious interest they had taken in the + Expedition; and we looked forward with excitement to the proper finish of + our labours. Without the third march, the exploration of Midian would have + been Abtar, as the Arabs say, "tail-less;" that is, lame and impotent in + point of conclusion. + </p> + <p> + But I would not be beaten by the enemy upon the subject of the lapis + Pharanitis mine. During the course of the day, a Jeráfín Bedawi, Selím ibn + Musallim, brought in scoriae of copper and iron; and on the morrow I sent + him as guide to Lieutenant Yusuf, with an escort of two soldiers and eight + quarrymen on seven camels. After three days' absence (March 8—10) + the officer rejoined us and reported as follows:— + </p> + <p> + Leaving the Mahattat el-Ghál, he rode up its watercourse, and then turned + southwards into the long Wady Umm Jirmah. After seven miles and a half (= + direct five and three-quarters), he came upon the Jebel el-Fayrúz. It is a + rounded eminence of no great height, showing many signs of work, + especially three or four cuttings some twenty metres deep. A hillock to + the north-west supplied the scoriæ before mentioned. Lieutenant Yusuf + blasted the chocolate-coloured quartzose rock in four places, filled as + many sacks, and struck the pilgrim-road in the Wady el-Mu'arrash, leaving + its red block, the Hamrá el-Mu'arrash, to the left. His specimens were + very satisfactory; except to the learned geologists of the Citadel, Cairo, + who pronounced them to be carbonate of copper! Dr. L. Karl Moser, of + Trieste, examined them and found crystals of turquoise, or rather + "johnite," as Dana has it, embedded in or spread upon the quartz. One + specimen, moreover, contained silver. So much for the Zibá or southern + turquoise-diggings. + </p> + <p> + Our journey ended on March 8th with a dull ride along the Hajj-road + northwards. Passing the creek Abú Sharír, which, like many upon this + coast, is rendered futile by a wall of coral reef, we threaded a long + flat, and after two hours (= seven miles) we entered a valley where the + Secondary formation again showed its débris. Here is the Mahattat el-Husan + ("the Stallion's Leap"), a large boulder lying to the left of the track, + and pitted with holes which a little imagination may convert into + hoof-prints. The name of the noble animal was El-Mashhúr; that of its + owner is, characteristically enough, forgotten by the Arabs: it lived in + the Days of Ignorance; others add, more vaguely still, when the Beni + ‘Ukbah, the lords of the land, were warring with the Baliyy. The gorge was + then a mere cutting, blocked up by this rock. El-Mashhúr "negotiated" it, + alighting upon the surface like a Galway hunter taking a stone wall; and + carried to Wady Tiryam its rider, whose throat was incontinently cut by + the foeman in pursuit. The legend is known to all, and the Bedawin still + scrape away the sands which threaten to bury the boulder: it has its + value, showing that in regions where the horse is now unknown, where, in + fact, nothing but a donkey can live, noble blood was once bred. The same + remark is made by Professor Palmer ("The Desert of the Exodus," p. 42) + concerning the Mangaz Hisán Abú Zená ("Leap of the Stallion of the Father + of Adultery"), two heaps of stone near the Sinaitic Wady Gharandal. There, + however, the animal is cursed, while here it is blessed: perhaps, also, + the Midianite tradition may descend from a source which, still older, + named the . Is this too far-fetched? And yet, peradventure, it may be + true. + </p> + <p> + We then fell into the Wady Jibbah; passed the Jebel el-Kibrít, examined M. + Philipin's work, and, led over a very vile and very long "short cut," + found ourselves once more on board the Mukhbir. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Note on the Supplies Procurable at Zibá. +</pre> + <p> + The chief stores are:— + </p> + <p> + Rice (good Yemani), per Kis, or bag of five and a half Kaylah (each + twenty-one Ratl = eighteen pounds), four to six dollars. + </p> + <p> + Durrah (Sorghum), per Ardebb (each = twelve Kaylah), seven and a half to + eight dollars. + </p> + <p> + Dukhn (millet), not common, per Ardebb, eight dollars. + </p> + <p> + Wheat, always procurable, per Ardebb, ten to twelve dollars. + </p> + <p> + Barley, always procurable, per Ardebb, five to six dollars. + </p> + <p> + ‘Adas (lentils, Revalenta Arabica), per Ardebb, ten to twelve + </p> + <p> + Samn (liquified butter), per Ratl, seven and a half to eight dollars. + </p> + <p> + Coffee (green), per pound, eighteen-pence. + </p> + <p> + ‘Ajwah (pressed dates), 100 to 110 piastres per Kantar (= 100 Ratl). + </p> + <p> + Eggs, thirty-five to the shilling. + </p> + <p> + It is generally possible to buy small quantities of Hummus (lupins or + chick-peas), Kharru'b (carob-pods), "hot" and coarse tobacco for the + Arabs, and cigarette-paper, matches, etc. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIII. — A Week Around and upon the Shárr Mountain–Résumé of + the March + </h2> + <p> + Through Eastern or Central Midian. + </p> + <p> + For months the Jebel Shárr, the grand block which backs El-Muwaylah, had + haunted us, starting up unexpectedly in all directions, with its towering + heads, that shifted shape and colour from every angle, and with each + successive change of weather. We could hardly leave unexplored the + classical "Hippos Mons," the Moslem's El-Ishárah ("the Landmark"), and the + Bullock's Horns of the prosaic British tar.<a href="#linknote-16" + name="linknoteref-16" id="linknoteref-16"><small>16</small></a> The few + vacant days before the arrival of the Sinnár offered an excellent + opportunity for studying the Alpine ranges of maritime Midian. Their stony + heights, they said, contain wells and water in abundance, with palms, + remains of furnaces, and other attractions. Every gun was brought into + requisition, by tales of leopard and ibex, the latter attaining the size + of bullocks (!) and occasionally finding their way to the fort:—it + was curious to hear our friends, who, as usual, were great upon "le + shport," gravely debating whether it would be safe to fire upon le + léopard. I was anxious to collect specimens of botany and natural history + from an altitude hitherto unreached by any traveller in Western Arabia; + and, lastly, there was geography as well as mineralogy to be done. + </p> + <p> + The Hydrographic Chart gives the Mountain a maximum of nine thousand<a + href="#linknote-17" name="linknoteref-17" id="linknoteref-17"><small>17</small></a> + feet, evidently a clerical error often repeated—really those + Admiralty gentleman are too incurious: Wellsted, who surveyed it, remarks + (II. X.), "The height of the most elevated peak was found to be 6500 feet, + and it obtained from us the appellation of ‘Mowilabh High Peak"'—when + there are native names for every head. We had been convinced that the + lesser is the true measure, by our view from the Hismá plateau, 3800 feet + above sea-level. Again, the form, the size, and the inclination of the + noble massif are wrongly laid down by the hydrographers. It is a compact + block, everywhere rising abruptly from low and sandy watercourses, and + completely detached from its neighbours by broad Wadys—the Surr to + the north and east, while southwards run the Kuwayd and the Zahakán. The + huge long-oval prism measures nineteen and a half by five miles (= + ninety-seven and a half square miles of area); and its lay is 320° (mag.), + thus deflected 40° westward of the magnetic north. The general appearance, + seen in profile from the west, is a Pentedactylon, a central apex, with + two others on each side, tossed, as it were, to the north and south, and + turning, like chiens de faïence, their backs upon one another. + </p> + <p> + Moreover, the Chart assigns to its "Mount Mowilah" only two great + culminations—"Sharp Peak, 6330 feet," to the north; and south of it, + "High Peak, 9000." The surveyors doubtless found difficulty in obtaining + the Bedawi names for the several features, which are unknown to the + citizens of the coast; but they might easily have consulted the only + authorities, the Jeráfín-Huwaytát, who graze their flocks and herds on and + around the mountain. As usual in Arabia, the four several main "horns" are + called after the Fiumaras that drain them. The northernmost is the Abú + Gusayb (Kusayb) or Ras el-Gusayb (the "Little Reed"), a unity composed of + a single block and of three knobs in a knot; the tallest of the latter, + especially when viewed from the south, resembles an erect and reflexed + thumb—hence our "Sharp Peak." Follows Umm el-Furút (the "Mother of + Plenty"), a mural crest, a quoin-shaped wall, cliffing to the south: the + face, perpendicular where it looks seawards, bears a succession of scars, + upright gashes, the work of wind and weather; and the body which supports + it is a slope disposed at the natural angle. An innominatus, in the shape + of a similar quoin, is separated by a deep Col, apparently a torrent-bed, + from a huge Beco de Papagaio—the "Parrot's Bill" so common in the + Brazil. This is the Abú Shenázir or Shaykhánib (the "Father of Columns"); + and, as if two names did not suffice, it has a third, Ras el-Huwayz ("of + the Little Cistern"). It is our "High Peak," the most remarkable feature + of the sea-façade, even when it conceals the pair of towering pillars that + show conspicuously to the north and south. From the beak-shaped apex the + range begins to decline and fall; there is little to notice in the fourth + horn, whose unimportant items, the Ras Lahyánah, the Jebel Maí'h, and the + Umm Gisr (Jisr), end the wall. Each has its huge white Wady, striping the + country in alternation with dark-brown divides, and trending coastwards in + the usual network. + </p> + <p> + The material of the four crests is the normal grey granite, enormous lumps + and masses rounded by degradation; all chasms and naked columns, with here + and there a sheet burnished by ancient cataracts, and a slide trickling + with water, unseen in the shade and flashing in the sun like a sheet of + crystal. The granite, however, is a mere mask or excrescence, being + everywhere based upon and backed by the green and red plutonic traps which + have enveloped it. And the prism has no easy inland slopes, as a first + glance suggests; instead of being the sea-wall of a great plateau, it + falls abruptly to the east as well as to the west. The country behind it + shows a perspective of high and low hills, lines of dark rock divided from + one another by Wadys of the usual exaggerated size. Of these minor heights + only one, the Jebel el-Sahhárah looks down upon the sea, rising between + the Dibbagh-Kh'shabríyyah block to the north, and the Shárr to the south. + Beyond the broken eastern ground, the ruddy Hismá and the gloomy Harrah + form the fitting horizon. + </p> + <p> + After this much for geography, we may view the monarch of Midianite + mountains in the beauty and the majesty of his picturesque form. Seen from + El-Muwaylah, he is equally magnificent in the flush of morning, in the + still of noon, and in the evening glow. As the rays, which suggested the + obelisk, are shooting over the southern crests, leaving the basement blue + with a tint between the amethyst and the lapis lazuli, its northern third + lies wrapped in a cloak of cold azure grey, and its central length already + dons a half-light of warmer hue. Meanwhile, the side next the sun is + flooded with an aerial aureole of subtle mist, a drift of liquid gold, a + gush of living light, rippling from the unrisen orb, decreasing in warmth + and brilliancy, paling and fading and waxing faint with infinite + gradations proportioned to the increase of distance. Again, after the + clear brooding sheen of day has set off the "stark strength and grandeur + of rock-form contrasted with the brilliancy and sprightliness of sea," the + sinking sun paints the scene with the most gorgeous of blazonings. The + colours of the pale rock-skeleton are so faint that there is nothing to + interfere with the perfect development of atmospheric effects: it is a + white sheet spread to catch the grand illumination, lambent lights of + saffron and peach-blossom and shades of purple and hyacinth. As + indescribably lovely is the after-glow, the zodiacal light which may have + originated the pyramid; the lively pink reflection from the upper + atmosphere; the vast variety of tints with which the greens and the reds, + the purples and the fiery crimsons of the western sky tincture the + receptive surface of the neutral-hued granites; and the + chameleon-shiftings of the dying day, as it sinks into the arms of night. + Nor less admirable are the feats of the fairy Refraction. The mighty + curtain seems to rise and fall as if by magic: it imitates, as it were, + the framework of man. In early morning the dancing of the air adds many a + hundred cubits to its apparent stature: it is now a giant, when at + midnight, after the equipoise of atmospheric currents, it becomes a dwarf + replica of its former self. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * * * * * * +</pre> + <p> + I had neglected to order overnight the camels from El-Muwaylah, a + penny-wise proceeding which delayed our departure. It was nearly nine a.m. + (March 13th) before we left the Mukhbir, whose unhappies still sighed and + yearned for the civilization and dissipation of Suez; landed at the head + of the Sharm Yáhárr, and marched up the Wady Hárr. We were guided by two + Jeráfín, Sulayman ibn Musallim and Farj ibn ‘Awayz; the former a model + hill-man, a sturdy, thick-legged, huge-calved, gruff-voiced, full-bearded + fellow, hot-tempered, good-humoured, and renowned as an ibex-hunter. His + gun, marked "Lazari Coitinaz," was a long-barrelled Spanish musket, + degraded to a matchlock: it had often changed hands, probably by theft, + and the present owner declared that he had bought it for seventy dollars—nearly + £15! Yet its only luxury was the bottom of a breechloader brass cartridge, + inlaid and flanked by the sharp incisors of the little Wabar, or mountain + coney. These Bedawin make gunpowder for themselves; they find saltpetre in + every cavern, and they buy from Egypt the sulphur which is found in their + own hills. + </p> + <p> + After a few minutes we left the Hárr, which drains the tallest of the + inland hillock-ranges, and the red block "Hamrá el-Maysarah;" and we + struck south-east into the Wady Sanawíyyah. It is a vulgar valley with a + novelty, the Tamrat Faraj. This cairn of brick-coloured boulders + buttressing the right bank has, or is said to have, the Memnonic property + of emitting sounds—Yarinn is the Bedawi word. The boomings and + bellowings are said to be loudest at sunrise and sunset. The "hideous hum" + of such subterraneous thunderings is alluded to by all travellers in the + Dalmatian Island of Melada, and in the Narenta Valley. The marvel has been + accounted for by the escape of imprisoned air unequally expanded, but "a + veil of mystery hangs over the whole."<a href="#linknote-18" + name="linknoteref-18" id="linknoteref-18"><small>18</small></a> The + valley-sides of dark trap were striped with white veins of heat-altered + argil; the sole with black magnetic sand; and patches of the bed were + buttercup-yellow with the Handán (dandelion), the Cytisus, and the Zaram + (Panicum turgidum) loved by camels. Their jaundiced hue contrasted vividly + with the red and mauve blossoms of the boragine El-Kahlá, the blue + flowerets of the Lavandula (El-Zayti), and the delicate green of the + useless<a href="#linknote-19" name="linknoteref-19" id="linknoteref-19"><small>19</small></a> + asphodel (El-Borag), which now gave a faint and shadowy aspect of verdure + to the slopes. Although the rise was inconsiderable, the importance of the + vegetation palpably decreased as we advanced inland. + </p> + <p> + After four miles we reached the Wady-head, and wasted a couple of hours + awaiting the camels that carried our supplies. The path then struck over a + stony divide, with the Hamrá to the left or north, and on the other side + the Hamrá el-Mu'arrash, made familiar to us by our last march. The latter + ends in an isolated peak, the Jebel Gharghúr, which, on our return, was + mistaken for the sulphur-hill of Jibbah. Presently we renewed acquaintance + with the Wady el-Bayzá, whose lower course we had crossed south of Sharm + Yáhárr: here it is a long and broad, white and tree-dotted expanse, + glaring withal, and subtending all this section of the Shárr's sea-facing + base. We reached, after a total of eight miles, the Jibál el-Kawáim, or + "the Perpendiculars," one of the features which the Bedawin picturesquely + call the Aulád el-Shárr ("Sons of the Sha'rr"). The three heads, projected + westwards from the Umm Furút peak and then trending northwards, form a + lateral valley, a bay known as Wady el-Káimah. It is a picturesque feature + with its dark sands and red grit, while the profile of No. 3 head, the + Káimat Abú Rákí, shows a snub-nosed face in a judicial wig, the trees + forming an apology for a beard. I thought of "Buzfuz Bovill." + </p> + <p> + We camped early, as the Safh el-Shárr (the "Plain of the Shárr") and the + lateral valley were found strewed with quartzes, white, pink, and deep + slate-blue. The guides had accidentally mentioned a "Jebel el-Marú," and I + determined to visit it next morning. The night was warm and still. The + radiation of heat from the huge rock-range explained the absence of cold, + so remarkable during all this excursion—hence the African traveller + ever avoids camping near bare stones. Dew, however, wetted our boxes like + thin rain: the meteor, remarked for the first time on March 13th, will + last, they say, three months, and will greatly forward vegetation. It + seems to be uncertain, or rather to be influenced by conditions which we + had no opportunity of studying: at times it would be exceptionally heavy, + and in other places it was entirely absent. Before evening new + contract-boots, bought from the Mukhbir, were distributed to the soldiers + and all the quarrymen, who limped painfully on their poor bare feet:—next + day all wore their well-hidden old boots. + </p> + <p> + Early on March 14th we ascended the Wady el-Káimah, which showed a + singular spectacle, and read us another lecture upon the diversity of + formation which distinguishes this region. An abrupt turn then led over + rough ground, the lower folds of the Umm Furút, where a great granite + gorge, the Nakb Abú Shár, ran up to a depression in the dorsum, an + apparently practicable Col. Suddenly the rocks assumed the quaintest hues + and forms. The quartz, slaty-blue and black, was here spotted and streaked + with a dull, dead white, as though stained by the droppings of myriad + birds: there it lay veined and marbled with the most vivid of rainbow + colours— reds and purples, greens and yellows, set off by the pale + chalky white. Evident signs of work were remarked in a made road running + up to the Jebel el-Marú (proper), whose strike is 38° (mag.), and whose + dip is westward. It is an arête, a cock's-comb of snowy quartz some sixty + feet high by forty-five broad at the base; crowning a granitic fold that + descends abruptly, with a deep fall on either side, from the "Mother of + Plenty." This strangely isolated wall, left standing by the denudation + that swept away the containing stone, had been broken by perpendicular + rifts into four distinct sections; the colour became whiter as it neared + the coping, and each rock was crowned with a capping that sparkled like + silver in the sudden glance of the "cloud-compelling" sun. The sight + delighted us; and M. Lacaze here made one of his most effective croquis, + showing the explorers reduced to the size of ants. As yet we had seen + nothing of the kind; nor shall we see a similar vein till we reach + Abú'l-Marwah, near our farthest southern point. I expected a corresponding + formation upon the opposite eastern versant: we found only a huge crest, a + spine of black plutonic rock, intensely ugly and repulsive. As we rode + back down the "Valley of the Perpendiculars," the aspect of the Jebel + el-Marú was épâtant—to use another favourite camp-word. Standing + sharply out from its vague and gloomy background made gloomier by the + morning mists, the Col, whose steep rain-cut slopes and sole were + scattered with dark trees and darker rocks, this glittering wall became + the shell of an enchanted castle in Gustave Doré. + </p> + <p> + Returning to our old camping-ground after a ride of three hours and thirty + minutes (= nine miles), we crossed two short divides, and descended the + Wady el-Kusayb, which gives a name to "Sharp Peak." Here a few formless + stone-heaps and straggling bushes represented the ruins, the gardens of + palms, and the bullrushes of the Bedawi shepherd lads.<a + href="#linknote-20" name="linknoteref-20" id="linknoteref-20"><small>20</small></a> + Our tents had been pitched in the rond-point of the Wady Surr, which + before had given us hospitality (February 19th), on a Safh or high + bouldery ledge of the left bank, where it receives the broad Kusayb + watercourse. The day had been sultry; the sun was a "rain sun," while the + clouds massed thick to the south-west; and at night the lamps of heaven + shone with a reddish, lurid light. The tent-pegs were weighted with + camel-boxes against the storm; nevertheless, our mess-tent was levelled in + a moment by the howling north-easter—warm withal—which, + setting in about midnight, made all things uncomfortable enough. + </p> + <p> + Whilst the caravan was ordered to march straight up the noble Wady Surr, + we set off next morning at six a.m. up the Wady Malíh, the north-eastern + branch of the bulge in the bed. A few Arab tents were scattered about the + bushes above the mouth; and among the yelping curs was a smoky-faced tyke + which might have been Eskimo-bred:—hereabouts poor ‘Brahim had been + lost, and was not fated to be found. A cross-country climb led to the + Jebel Malíh, whose fame for metallic wealth gave us the smallest + expectations—hitherto all our discoveries came by surprise. A + careful examination showed nothing at all; but a few days afterwards + glorious specimens of cast copper were brought in, the Bedawi declaring + that he had found them amongst the adjoining hills. In the re-entering + angles of the subjacent Wady the thrust of a stick is everywhere followed + by the reappearance of stored-up rain, and the sole shows a large puddle + of brackish and polluted water. Perhaps the Malayh of the Bedawin may mean + "the salt" (Málih), not "the pleasant" (Malíh). Malíh, or Mallih, is also + the name of a plant, the Reaumuria vernice of Forskâl. + </p> + <p> + Resuming our ride up the torrent-bed, and crossing to the Wady Daumah (of + the "Single Daum-palm"), we dragged our mules down a ladder of rock and + boulder, the left bank of the upper Surr. The great valley now defines, + sharply as a knife-cut, the northernmost outlines of the Shárr, whose + apex, El-Kusayb, towered above our heads. Thorn-trees are abundant; + fan-palm bush grows in patches; and we came upon what looked like a + flowing stream ruffled by the morning breeze: the guides declared that it + is a rain-pool, dry as a bone in summer. Presently the rocky bed made a + sharp turn; and its "Gate," opened upon another widening, the meeting + place of four Wadys, the northern being the Wady Zibayyib that drains + ruddy Abá‘l-bárid. + </p> + <p> + After a short halt to examine the rude ruins reported by Mr. Clarke,<a + href="#linknote-21" name="linknoteref-21" id="linknoteref-21"><small>21</small></a> + we resumed the ascent of the Surr, whose left bank still defines the + eastern edge of the Shárr. The latter presently puts forth the jagged + spine of black and repulsive plutonic rock, which notes the Sha'b Makhúl, + the corresponding versant of the Nakb Abú Sha'r. The Bedawin, who, as + usual, luxuriate in nomenclature, distinguish between the eastern and + western faces of the same block, and between the Wadys of the scarp and + the counter-scarp. For instance, the eastern front of the Ras el-Kusayb is + called Abú Kurayg (Kurayj). This is natural, as the formations, often of a + different material, show completely different features. + </p> + <p> + A little further on, the continuity of the right bank is broken by the + Wady el-Hámah. It receives the Wady Kh'shabríyyah, which, bifurcating in + the upper bed, drains the Dibbagh and the Umm Jedayl blocks; and in the + fork lie, we were told, the ruins of El-Fara', some five hours' march from + this section of the Surr. At the confluence of El-Hámah we found the + camels grazing and the tents pitched without orders: the two Shaykhs were + determined to waste another day, so they were directed to reload while we + breakfasted. Everything was in favour of a long march; the dusty, gusty + north-easter had blown itself out in favour of a pleasant southerly wind, + a sea breeze deflected from the west. + </p> + <p> + After marching three miles we camped at the foot of the ridge to be + ascended next morning: the place is called Safhat el-Mu'ayrah from a slaty + schistose hill on the eastern bank. The guides declared that the only + practicable line to the summit was from this place; and that the Sha'bs + (Cols) generally cannot be climbed even by the Arabs—I have reason + to believe the reverse. Musallim, an old Bedawi, brought, amongst other + specimens from the adjacent atelier, the Mashghal el-Mu'ayrah, a bright + bead about the size of No. 5 shot: in the evening dusk it was taken for + gold, and it already aroused debates concerning the proper direction of + the promised reward, fifty dollars. The morning light showed fine copper. + Here free metal was distinctly traceable in the scoriæ, and it was the + first time that we had seen slag so carelessly worked. Not a little + merriment was caused by the ostentatious display of "gold-stones," marked + by M. Philipin's copper-nailed boots. Sulaymán, the Bedawi, had killed a + Wabar, whose sadly mutilated form appeared to be that of the Syrian hill + coney: these men split the bullet into four; "pot" at the shortest + distance, and, of course, blow to pieces any small game they may happen to + hit. + </p> + <p> + Early on March 16th we attacked the Shárr in a general direction from + north to south, where the ascent looked easy enough. On the left bank a + porphyritic block, up whose side a mule can be ridden, is disposed in a + slope of the palest and most languid of greens, broken by piles of black + rock so regular as to appear artificial. This step leads to a horizontal + crest, a broken wall forming its summit: it is evidently an outlier; and + experience asked, What will be behind it? The more distant plane showed + only the heads of the Shenázir or "Pins," the two quaint columns which are + visible as far as the Shárr itself. This lower block is bounded, north and + south, by gorges; fissures that date from the birth of the mountain, + deepened by age and raging torrents: apparently they offered no passage. + In the former direction yawns the Rushúh Abú Tinázib, so called from its + growth—the Tanzub-tree<a href="#linknote-22" name="linknoteref-22" + id="linknoteref-22"><small>22</small></a> (Sodada decidua); and in the + latter the Sháb Umm Khárgah (Khárjah). I should have preferred a likely + looking Nakb, south of this southern gorge, but the Bedawin, and + especially Abú Khartúm, who had fed his camels and sheep upon the + mountain, overruled me. + </p> + <p> + The ascent of the outlier occupied three very slow hours, spent mostly in + prospecting and collecting. At nine a.m. we stood 3200 feet above + sea-level (aner. 26.79), high enough to make our tents look like bits of + white macadam. What most struck us was the increased importance of the + vegetation, both in quantity and quality; the result, doubtless, of more + abundant dew and rain, as well as of shade from each passing mist-cloud. + The view formed a startling contrast of fertility and barrenness. At every + hundred yards the growths of the plain became more luxuriant in the rich + humus filling the fissures, and, contrary to the general rule, the plants, + especially the sorrel (Rumex) and the dandelion (Taraxacum), instead of + dwindling, gained in stature. The strong-smelling Ferula looked like a + bush, and the Sarh grew into a tree: the Ar'ar,<a href="#linknote-23" + name="linknoteref-23" id="linknoteref-23"><small>23</small></a> a homely + hawthorn (hawthorn-leaved Rhus), whose appearance was a surprise, equalled + the Cratœgus of Syria; and the upper heights must have been a forest of + fine junipers (Habíbah = Juniperus Phœnicea), with trunks thick as a man's + body. The guides spoke of wild figs, but we failed to find them. Our + chasseurs, who had their guns, eagerly conned over the traces of ibex and + hyenas, and the earths, as well as the large round footprints, of un + léopard; but none of the larger animals were seen. The Bedawi matchlock + has made them wary; chance might give a shot the first day: on the other + hand, skill might be baffled for a month or two—I passed six weeks + upon the Anti-Libanus before seeing a bear. The noble Shinnár-partridge + again appeared; an eagle's feather lay on the ground; two white papillons + and one yellow butterfly reminded me of the Camarones Mountain; the wild + bee and the ladybird-like Ba'úzah stuck to us as though they loved us; and + we were pestered by the attentions of the common fly. The Egyptian symbol + for "Paul Pry" is supposed to denote an abundance of organic matter: it + musters strong throughout Midian, even in the dreariest wastes; and it + accompanies us everywhere, whole swarms riding upon our backs. + </p> + <p> + The only semblance of climbing was over the crest of brown, burnished, and + quartzless traps. Even there the hands were hardly required, although our + poor feet regretted the want of Spartelles.<a href="#linknote-24" + name="linknoteref-24" id="linknoteref-24"><small>24</small></a> Here the + track debouched upon an inverted arch, with a hill, or rather a tall and + knobby outcrop of rock, on either flank of the keystone. The inland or + eastward view was a map of the region over which we had travelled; a + panorama of little chains mostly running parallel with the great range, + and separated from it by Wadys, lateral, oblique, and perpendicular. Of + these torrent-beds some were yellow, others pink, and others faint sickly + green with decomposed trap; whilst all bore a fair growth of thorn-trees—Acacias + and Mimosas. High over and beyond the monarch of the Shafah Mountains, + Jebel Sahhárah, whose blue poll shows far out at sea, ran the red levels + of the Hismá, backed at a greater elevation by the black-blue Harrah. The + whole Tihámah range, now so familiar to us, assumed a novel expression. + The staple material proved to be blocks and crests of granite, protruding + from the younger plutonics, which enfolded and enveloped their bases and + backs. The one exception was the dwarf Umm Jedayl, a heap composed only of + grey granite. The Jebel Kh'shabríyyah in the Dibbagh block attracted every + eye; the head was supported by a neck swathed as with an old-fashioned + cravat. + </p> + <p> + The summit of the outlier is tolerably level, and here the shepherds had + built small hollow piles of dry stone, in which their newly yeaned lambs + are sheltered from the rude blasts. The view westwards, or towards the + sea, which is not seen, almost justifies by its peculiarity the wild + traditions of built wells, of a "moaning mountain," and of furnaces upon + the loftiest slopes: it is notable that the higher we went, the less we + heard of these features, which at last vanished into thin air. Our + platform is, as I suspected, cut off from the higher plane by a dividing + gorge; but the depth is only three hundred feet, and to the south it is + bridged by a connecting ridge. Beyond it rises the great mask of granite + forming the apex, a bonier skeleton than any before seen. Down the + northern sheet-rocks trickled a thin stream that caught the sun's eye; + thus the ravine is well supplied with water in two places. South of it + rises a tempting Col, with a slope apparently easy, separating a dull mass + of granite on the right from the peculiar formation to the left. The + latter is a dome of smooth, polished, and slippery grey granite, evidently + unpleasant climbing; and from its landward slope rise abrupt, as if + hand-built, two isolated gigantic "Pins," which can hardly measure less + than four hundred feet in stature. They are the remains of a sharp + granitic comb whose apex was once the "Parrot's Beak." The mass, formerly + mammilated, has been broken and denticulated by the destruction of softer + strata. Already the lower crest, bounding the Sha'b Umm Khárgah, shows + perpendicular fissures which, when these huge columns shall be gnawed away + by the tooth of Time, will form a new range of pillars for the benefit of + those ascending the Shárr, let us say in about A.D. 10,000. Such are the + "Pins" which name the mountain; and which, concealed from the coast, make + so curious a show to the north, south, and east of this petrified glacier. + </p> + <p> + After breaking their fast, M.M. Clarke, Lacaze, and Philipin volunteered + to climb the tempting Col. None of them had ever ascended a mountain, and + they duly despised the obstacles offered by big rocks distance-dwarfed to + paving-stones; and of sharp angles, especially the upper, + perspective-blunted to easy slopes. However, all three did exceeding well: + for such a "forlorn hope" young recruits are better than old soldiers. + They set out at eleven a.m., and lost no time in falling asunder; whilst + the quarrymen, who accompanied them with the water-skins, shirked work as + usual, lagged behind, sat and slept in some snug hollow, and returned, + when dead-tired of slumber, declaring that they had missed the "Effendis." + </p> + <p> + M. Philipin took singly the sloping side of the connecting ridge; and, + turning to the right, made straight for the "Pins," below which was spread + a fleck of lean and languid green. The ascent was comparatively mild, + except where it became a sheet of smooth and slippery granite; but when he + reached a clump of large junipers, his course was arrested by a + bergschrund, which divides this block—evidently a second outlier—from + the apex of the Shárr, the "Dome" and the "Parrot's Beak." It was vain to + attempt a passage of the deep gash, with perpendicular upper walls, and + lower slopes overgrown with vegetation; nor could he advance to the right + and rejoin his companions, who were parted from him by the precipices on + the near side of the Col. Consequently, he beat a retreat, and returned to + us at 2.30 p.m., after three hours and thirty minutes of exceedingly + thirsty work: the air felt brisk and cool, but the sun shone pitilessly, + unveiled by the smallest scrap of mist. He brought with him an ibex-horn + still stained with blood, and a branch of juniper, straight enough to make + an excellent walking-stick. + </p> + <p> + The other two struck across the valley, and at once breasted the couloir + leading to the Col, where we had them well in sight. They found the ascent + much "harder on the collar" than they expected: fortunately the sole of + the huge gutter yielded a trickle of water. The upper part was, to their + naive surprise, mere climbing on all fours; and they reached the summit, + visible from our halting-place, in two hours. Here they also were + summarily stopped by perpendicular rocks on either side, and by the deep + gorge or crevasse, shedding seawards and landwards, upon whose further + side rose the "Parrot's Beak." The time employed would give about two + thousand feet, not including the ascent from the valley (three hundred + feet); and thus their highest point could hardly be less than 5200 feet. + Allowing another thousand for the apex, which they could not reach,<a + href="#linknote-25" name="linknoteref-25" id="linknoteref-25"><small>25</small></a> + the altitude of the Shárr would be between 6000 and 6500 feet. + </p> + <p> + The shadows were beginning to lengthen before the two reappeared, and the + delay caused no small apprehension; the Sayyid showed a kindly agitation + that was quite foreign to his calm and collected demeanour, when + threatened by personal danger. To be benighted amongst these cruel + mountains must be no joke; nor would it have been possible to send up a + tent or even mouth-munition. However, before the sun had reached the west, + they came back triumphant with the spoils of war. One was a snake (Echis + colorata, Günther), found basking upon the stones near the trickle of + water. It hissed at them, and, when dying, it changed colour, they + declared, like a chameleon—that night saw it safely in the + spirit-tin. They were loaded with juniper boughs, and fortunately they had + not forgotten the berries; the latter establish the identity of the tree + with the common Asiatic species. M. Lacaze brought back several Alpine + plants, a small Helix which he had found near the summit, and copious + scrawls for future croquis—his studies of the "Pins" and the "Dome" + were greatly admired at Cairo. + </p> + <p> + Ere the glooms of night had set in, we found ourselves once more at the + tents. Only one man suffered from the ascent, and his sunstroke was + treated in Egyptian fashion. Instead of bleeding like that terrible, + murderous Italian school of Sangrados, the Fellahs tie a string tightly + round the head; and after sunset—which is considered de rigueur—they + fill the ears with strong brine. According to them the band causes a bunch + of veins to swell in the forehead, and, when pressed hard, it bursts like + a pistol-shot. The cure is evidently effected by the cold salt-and-water. + The evening ended happily with the receipt of a mail, and with the good + news that the Sinnár corvette had been sent to take the place of + El-Mukhbir, the unfortunate. Once more we felt truly grateful to the + Viceroy and the Prince who so promptly and so considerately had supplied + all our wants, and whose kindness would convert our southern cruise into a + holiday gîte, without the imminent deadly risk of a burst boiler. + </p> + <p> + We set out in high spirits on the next morning (6.15 a.m., March 17th), + riding, still southwards, up the Surr: the stony, broken surface now + showed that we were fast approaching its source. Beyond the Umm Khárgah + gorge on the western bank, rose a tall head, the Ras el-Rukabíyyah; and + beyond it was a ravine, in which palms and water are said to be found. The + opposite side raised its monotonous curtain of green and red traps, whose + several projections bore the names of Jebel el-Wu'ayrah—the hill + behind our camping-ground—Jebel el-Maín, and Jebel Sháhitah. A + little beyond the latter debouched the Darb el-Kufl ("Road of Caravans"), + alias Darb el-Ashárif ("Road of the Sherifs"), a winding gap, the old line + of the Egyptian pilgrims, by which the Sulaymáyyán Bedawin still wend + their way to Suez. The second name, perhaps, conserves the tradition of + long-past wars waged between the Descendants of the Apostle and the Beni + ‘Ukbah.<a href="#linknote-26" name="linknoteref-26" id="linknoteref-26"><small>26</small></a> + The broad mouth was dotted with old graves, with quartz-capped + memorial-cairns, and, here and there, with a block bearing some tribal + mark. The Wady-sole grew a "stinkhorn" held to be poisonous, and called, + from its fetor, "Faswat el-‘Agúz" (Cynophallus impudicus): one specimen + was found on the tip of an ibex-horn, and the other had been impaled with + a stick. After two hours and thirty minutes (= seven miles) we sighted the + head of the Wady Surr proper, whose influents drain the southern + Khurayatah or Hismá Pass. Here the amount of green surface, and the number + of birds, especially the blue-rock and the insect-impaling "butcher," + whose nests were in the thin forest of thorn-trees, argue that water is + not far off. The Ras Wady Surr is a charming halting-place. + </p> + <p> + Our Arabs worked hard to gain another day. The only tolerable Pass + rounding the southern Shárr was, they declared, the Wady Aújar, an + influent of the Wady Zahakán, near Zibá. The Col el-Kuwayd, now within a + few yards of us, is so terrible that the unfortunate camels would require, + before they could attempt it, at least twenty-four hours of preparatory + rest and rich feeding; and so forth. However, we pushed them on with + flouts and jeers, and we ourselves followed at eleven a.m. + </p> + <p> + The Pass proved to be one of the easiest. It began with a gradual rise up + a short broad Wady, separating the southernmost counterforts of the Shárr + from the north end of the Jebel el-Ghuráb. This "Raven Mountain" is a line + of similar but lower formation, which virtually prolongs the great + "Landmark," down coast. The bottom was dotted with lumps of pure "Marú," + washed from the upper levels. We reached the summit in forty minutes, and + the seaward slope beyond it was a large outcrop of quartz in situ, that + assumed the strangest appearance,—a dull, dead chalky-white, looking + as if heat-altered or mixed with clay. The rock-ladder leading to the + lower Wady Kuwayd, which has an upper branch of the same name, offered no + difficulty to man or beast; and the aneroid showed its height to be some + 470 feet (28.13—28.50). The caravan, having preceded us, revenged + itself by camping at the nearest pool, distant nineteen and a half direct + geographical miles from our destination. + </p> + <p> + This day was the first of the Khamsín or, as M. Loufti (?), a Coptic + student, writes it, "Khamasín," from Khama ("warm") and Sina ("air").<a + href="#linknote-27" name="linknoteref-27" id="linknoteref-27"><small>27</small></a> + The Midianites call it El-Daufún, the hot blasts, and expect it to blow at + intervals for a couple of months. This scirocco has been modified in + Egypt, at least during the spring, apparently by the planting of trees. + About a quarter-century ago, its regular course was three days: on the + first it set in; the second was its worst; and men knew that it would + exhaust itself on the third. Now it often lasts only a single day, and + even that short period has breaks. + </p> + <p> + The site of the camp made sleep well-nigh impossible—a bad + preparation for the only long ride of this excursion. Setting off at dark + (4.20 a.m., March 18th), we finished the monotonous Wady Kuwayd, which + mouths upon the rolling ground falling coastwards. The track then struck + to the north-west, across and sometimes down the network of Wadys that + subtends the south-western Shárr—their names have already been + mentioned. As we sighted the cool green-blue sea, its horizon-line + appeared prodigiously uplifted, as if the Fountains of the great Deep were + ready for another Deluge. I remembered the inevitable expressions of + surprise with which, young Alpinists and ballooners, expecting the rim of + the visible circle to fall away, see it rising around them in + saucer-shape. The cause is simply that which breaks the stick in water, + and which elevates the Sha'rr every morning—Refraction. + </p> + <p> + After a march of seven hours (= twenty-two miles), we debouched, viâ the + Wady Hárr, upon our old Sharm, the latter showing, for the first time + since its creation, two war-steamers, with their "tender," a large Sambúk. + The boats did not long keep us waiting; and we were delighted to tread + once more the quarter-deck of the corvette Sinnár. Captain Ali Bey + Shukri's place had been taken by Captain Hasan-Bey, an Osmanli of Cavala + who, having been forty-eight years in the service, sighed for his pension. + He did, however, everything in his power to make us feel "at home;" and + the evening ended with a fantasia of a more pronounced character than + anything that I had yet seen.<a href="#linknote-28" name="linknoteref-28" + id="linknoteref-28"><small>28</small></a> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Résumé of the March Through Eastern or Central Midian. +</pre> + <p> + Our journey through Eastern or Central Midian lasted eighteen days + (February 19—March 8), with an excursion of six (March 13—18) + to its apex, the mighty Shárr, which I would add to our exploration of + Central Midian. Despite enforced slow marches at the beginning of the + first section, we visited in round numbers, according to my itinerary, 197 + miles: Lieutenant Amir's map gives a linear length of 222 miles, not + including the offsets. The second part covered fifty-five miles, besides + the ascent of the mountain to a height of about five thousand feet: the + mapper also increased this figure to 59 2/3. Thus the route-line shows a + grand total of 252 to 281 2/3 in direct statute miles. The number of + camels engaged from Shaykhs ‘Alayán and Hasan was sixty-one; and the hire, + according to Mr. Clarke, represented £147 6s. 6d., not including the £40 + of which we were plundered by the bandit Ma'ázah. The ascent of the Shárr + also cost £40, making a grand total of £187 6s. 6d. + </p> + <p> + The march to the Hismá gave us a fair idea of the three main formations of + Madyan, which lie parallel and east of one another:—1. The sandy and + stony maritime region, the foot-hills of the Gháts, granites and traps + with large veins and outcrops of quartz; and Wadys lined with thick beds + of conglomerate. 2. The Jibál el-Tihámah, the majestic range that bounds + the seaboard inland, with its broad valleys and narrow gorges forming the + only roads. 3. The Jibál el-Shafah, or interior ridge, the "lip" of + North-Western Arabia; in fact, the boundary-wall of the Nejd plateau. + </p> + <p> + The main object of this travel was to ascertain the depth from west to + east of the quartz-formations, which had been worked by the Ancients. I + had also hoped to find a virgin region lying beyond El-Harrah, the + volcanic tract subtending the east of the Hismá, or plateau of New Red + Sandstone. We ascertained, by inquiry, that the former has an extent + wholly unsuspected by Dr. Wallin and by the first Expedition; and that a + careful examination of it is highly desirable. But we were stopped upon + the very threshold of the Hismá by the Ma'ázah, a tribe of brigands which + must be subjected to discipline before the province of Madyan can be + restored to its former status. + </p> + <p> + This northern portion had been visited by Dr. Wallin; the other two-thirds + of the march lay, I believe, over untrodden ground. We brought back + details concerning the three great parallel Wadys; the Salmá, the Dámah, + that "Arabian Arcadia," and the ‘Aslah-Aznab. We dug into, and made + drawings and plans of, the two principal ruined cities, Shuwák and + Shaghab, which probably combined to form the classical ; and of the two + less important sites, El-Khandaki and Umm Ámil. + </p> + <p> + The roads of this region, and indeed of all Midian, are those of Iceland + without her bogs and snows: for riding considerations we may divide them + into four kinds:— + </p> + <p> + 1. Wady—the Fiumara or Nullah; called by travellers "winter-brook" + and "dry river-bed." It is a channel without water, formed, probably, by + secular cooling and contraction of the earth's surface, like the fissures + which became true streams in the tropics, and in the higher temperate + zones. Its geological age would be the same as the depressions occupied by + the ocean and the "massive" eruptions forming the mountain-skeleton of the + globe. Both the climate and the vegetation of Midian must have changed + immensely if these huge features, many of them five miles broad, were ever + full of water. In modern days, after the heaviest rains, a thin thread + meanders down a wilderness of bed. + </p> + <p> + The Wady-formation shows great regularity. Near the mouth its loose sands + are comfortable to camels and distressing to man and mule. The gravel of + the higher section is good riding; the upper part is often made impassable + by large stones and overfalls of rock; and the head is a mere couloir. + Flaked clay or mud show the thalweg; and the honeycombed ground, always + above the line of highest water, the homes of the ant, beetle, jerboa, + lizard, and (Girdi) rat, will throw even the cautious camel. + </p> + <p> + 2. Ghadír—the basin where rain-water sinks. It is mostly a shining + bald flat of hard yellow clay, as admirable in dry as it is detestable in + wet weather. + </p> + <p> + 3. Majrá—here pronounced "Maghráh"<a href="#linknote-29" + name="linknoteref-29" id="linknoteref-29"><small>29</small></a>—the + divide; literally, the place of flowing. It is the best ground of all, + especially where the yellow or brown sands are overlaid by hard gravel, or + by a natural metalling of trap and other stones. + </p> + <p> + 4. Wa'r—the broken stony surface, over which camels either cannot + travel, or travel with difficulty: it is the horror of the Bedawi; and, + when he uses the word, it usually means that it causes man to dismount. It + may be of two kinds; either the Majrá proper ("divide") or the Nakb + ("pass"), and the latter may safely be left to the reader's imagination. + </p> + <p> + The partial ascent of the mighty Shárr gave an admirable study of the mode + in which the granites have been enfolded and enveloped by the later + eruptions of trap. Nor less curious, also, was it to remark how, upon this + Arabian Alp, vegetation became more important; increasing, contrary to the + general rule, not only in quantity but in size, and changing from the date + and the Daum to the strong smelling Ferula, the homely hawthorn, and the + tall and balmy juniper-tree. There is game, ibex and leopard, in these + mountains; but the traveller, unless a man of leisure, must not expect to + shoot or even to sight it. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIV. — Down South—to El-Wijh–Notes on the Quarantine—the + Hutaym Tribe. + </h2> + <p> + There remained work to do before we could leave El-Muwaylah. The two + Shaykhs, ‘Alayán and Hasan el-‘Ukbi, were to be paid off end dismissed + with due ceremony; provisions were to be brought from the fort to the + cove; useless implements to be placed in store; mules to be embarked—no + joke without a pier!—and last, but not least, the ballastless + Mukhbir was to be despatched with a mail for Suez. The whole Expedition, + except only the sick left at the fort, was now bound southwards. The + Sayyid and our friend Furayj accepted formal invitations to accompany us: + Bukhayt, my "shadow," with Husayn, chef and romancer-general, were shipped + as their henchmen; and a score of soldiers and quarrymen represented the + escort and the working-hands. Briefly, the Sinnár, though fretting her + vitals out at the delay, was detained two days (March 19—20) in the + Sharm Yáhárr. Amongst other things that consoled us for quitting the snug + dock, was the total absence of fish. At this season the shoals leave the + coast, and gather round their wonted spawning-grounds, the deep waters + near the Sha'b ("reefs"), where they find luxuriant growths of seaweed, + and where no ships disturb them. + </p> + <p> + Bidding a temporary adieu to our old fellow voyagers on board the Mukhbir, + including the excellent engineer, Mr. David Duguid, we steamed out of the + quiet cove, at a somewhat late hour (6.30 a.m.) on March 21st; and, + dashing into the dark and slaty sea, stood to the south-east. For two days + the equinoctial weather had been detestable, dark, cloudy, and so damp + that the dry and the wet bulbs showed a difference of only 4°—5°. + This morning, too, the fire of colour had suddenly gone out; and the + heavens were hung with a gloomy curtain. The great Shárr, looming + unusually large and tall in the Scandinavian mountain-scene, grey of + shadow and glancing with sun-gleams that rent the thick veils of + mist-cloud, assumed a manner of Ossianic grandeur. After three hours and a + half we were abreast of Zibá, around whose dumpy tower all the population + had congregated. Thence the regular coralline bank, whose beach is the + Bab, runs some distance down coast, allowing passage to our ugly old + friend, Wady Salmá. The next important mouth is the Wady ‘Amúd, showing + two Sambúks at anchor, and a long line of vegetation like the palm-strips + of the ‘Akabah Gulf: this valley, I have said, receives the Mutadán, into + which the Abú Marwah gorge discharges.<a href="#linknote-30" + name="linknoteref-30" id="linknoteref-30"><small>30</small></a> + </p> + <p> + It would appear that this "‘Amúd" represents the "Wady el-‘Aúníd," a name + utterly unknown to the modern Arabs, citizens and Bedawin, at least as far + south as El-Haurá. Yet it is famed amongst mediaeval geographers for its + fine haven with potable water; and for its flourishing city, where honey + was especially abundant. El-Idrísí settles the question of its site by + placing it on the coast opposite the island El-Na'mán (Nu'mán), but can + El-Idrísí be trusted? Sprenger (p. 24), induced, it would appear, by + similarity of sound, and justly observing that in Arabic the letters Ayn + and Ghayn are often interchanged, would here place the (Rhaunathi Vicus) + of Ptolemy (north lat. 25 degrees 40'). According to my friend, also, the + Ras Abú Masárib, the long thin point north of which the Wady Dámah, + half-way to the Wady Azlam, falls in, represents the (Chersónesi Extrema) + on the same parallel. I cannot help suspecting that both lie further south—in + fact, somewhere about El- Haurá.<a href="#linknote-31" + name="linknoteref-31" id="linknoteref-31"><small>31</small></a> + </p> + <p> + Here the maritime heights, known as the Jibál ("Mountains" of the) + Tihámat-Balawiyyah (of "the Baliyy tribe"), recede from the sea, and + become mere hills and hillocks; yet the continuity of the chain is never + completely broken. At noon we slipped into the channel, about a mile and a + half broad, which separates the mainland from the Jebel ("Mount") Nu'mán, + as the island is called: so the Arabs speak of Jebel (never Jezírat) + Hassáni.<a href="#linknote-32" name="linknoteref-32" id="linknoteref-32"><small>32</small></a> + The surface of the water was like oil after the cross seas on all sides, + the tail of an old gale which the Arab pilots call Bahr madfún ("buried + sea"), corresponding with the Italian mar vecchio. On our return + northwards we landed upon Nu'mán, whose name derives from the red-flowered + Euphorbia retusa; bathed, despite the school of sharks occupying the + waters around; collected botany, and examined the ground carefully. Like + the Dalmatian Archipelago, it once formed part of the mainland, probably + separated by the process that raised the maritime range. The rolling sandy + plateau and the dwarf Wadys are strewed with trap and quartz, neither of + which could have been generated by the new sandstones and the yellow + corallines. It has two fine bays, facing the shore and admirably defended + from all winds; the southern not a little resembles Sináfir-cove. + </p> + <p> + The "top," or dwarf plateau, commands a fine view of the coast scenery; + the "Pins" of the Shárr; the Mutadán Mountain, twin ridges of grey white + granite, and, further south, the darker forms of Raydán and Zigláb. Here, + during springtide, the Huwaytát transport their flocks in the light craft + called Katirah, and feed them till the pasture is browsed down. We made + extensive inquiries, but could hear of no ruins. Yet the islet, some three + to four miles long by one broad, forming a natural breakwater to the + coast, is important enough to bear, according to Sprenger, a classical + name, the (Timagenis Insula) of Ptolemy. If this be the case, either the + Pelusian or his manuscripts are greatly in error. He places the bank in + north lat. 25° 45', whilst its centre would be in north lat. 27° 5'; and + the sixty miles of distance from the coast, evidently the blunder of a + copyist, must be reduced to a maximum of three. + </p> + <p> + Passing another old friend, the Aslah-Aznab, down whose head we had ridden + to Shaghab, about two p.m. we steamed along the mouth of the Wady Azlam, + the Ezlam of Wellsted,<a href="#linknote-33" name="linknoteref-33" + id="linknoteref-33"><small>33</small></a> which he unduly makes the + southern frontier of the Huwaytát, and the northern of the Baliyy tribes. + Beyond it is the gape of the once populous Wady Dukhán—of "the + (furnace?) Smoke"—faced by a large splay of tree-grown sand. Ruins + are reported in its upper bed. Beyond Marsá Zubaydah (not Zebaider), the + sea is bordered by the red-yellow coast-range; and the fretted sky line of + peaks and cones, "horses" and "hogs'-backs," is cut by deep valleys and + drained by dark "gates." The background presents a long, regular curtain + of black hill, whose white sheets and veins may be granite and quartz. We + were then shown the Mínat el-Marrah, one of the many Wady-mouths grown + with vegetation; and here the ruins El-Nabagah (Nabakah) are spoken of. At + four p.m. we doubled the Ras Labayyiz (not Lebayhad), a long flat tongue + projecting from the coast range, and defending its valley to the south. In + the Fara't or upper part, some five hours' march from the mouth, lie + important remains of the Mutakkadimín ("ancients"). The report was + confirmed by an old Arab Básh-Buzúk at El-Wijh; he declared that in his + youth he had seen a tall furnace, and a quantity of scoriæ from which + copper could be extracted, lying northwards at a distance of eighteen + hours' march and five by sea. + </p> + <p> + The next important feature is the Wady Salbah, the Telbah of the Chart, up + whose inland continuation, the Wady el-Nejd, we shall travel. Here the + coast-range again veers off eastward; and the regular line is cut up into + an outbreak of dwarf cones, mere thimbles. Above the gloomy range that + bounds it southwards, appear the granitic peaks and "Pins" of Jebel Libn, + gleaming white and pale in the livid half-light of a cloudy sunset. After + twelve hours' steaming over seventy to seventy-two knots of reefy sea, we + ran carefully into the Sharm Dumayghah.<a href="#linknote-34" + name="linknoteref-34" id="linknoteref-34"><small>34</small></a> This + lake-like, land-locked cove is by far the best of the many good + dock-harbours which break the Midian coast. Its snug retreat gave + hospitality to half a dozen Juhayni Sambúks, fishers and divers for + mother-of-pearl, riding beyond sight of the outer world, and utterly safe + from the lighthouse dues of El-Wijh. + </p> + <p> + I resolved to pass a day at these old quarters of a certain Háji + ‘Abdullah. The hydrographers have given enlarged plans of Yáhárr and + Jibbah, ports close to each other; while they have ignored the far more + deserving Sharm Dumayghah. Distant only thirty miles of coasting + navigation, a line almost clear of reefs and shoals, it is the natural + harbour for the pilgrim-ships, which ever run the danger of being wrecked + at El-Wijh; and it deserves more notice than we have hitherto vouchsafed + to it. The weather also greatly improved on the next day (March 22nd): the + cloud-canopy, the excessive moisture, and the still sultriness which had + afflicted us since March 19th, were in process of being swept away by the + strong, cool, bright norther. + </p> + <p> + The survey of the Egyptian officers shows an oval extending from + north-west to south-east, with four baylets or bulges in the northern + shore. The length is upwards of a knot, and the breadth twelve hundred + yards. It may be described as the embouchure of the Wady Dumayghah, which + falls into its head, and which, doubtless, in olden times, when the land + was wooded, used to roll a large and turbulent stream. As is often seen on + this coast, the entrance is defended by a natural breakwater which appears + like a dot upon the Chart. Capped with brown crust, falling bluff inland, + and sloping towards the main, where the usual stone-heaps act as + sea-marks, this bank of yellowish-white coralline, measuring 310 metres by + half that width, may be the remains of the bed in which the torrents + carved out the port. The northern inlet is a mere ford of green water: my + "Pilgrimage" made the mistake of placing a fair-way passage on either side + of the islet. The southern channel, twenty-five fathoms deep and three + hundred metres broad, is garnished on both flanks with a hundred metres of + dangerous shallow, easily distinguished by green blazoned upon blue. The + bay is shoal to the south-east; the best anchorage for ships lies to the + north-west, almost touching land. A reef or rock is reported to be in the + middle ground, where we lay with ten fathoms under us: it was seen, they + say, at night, by the aid of lanterns; but next morning Lieutenants Amir + and Yusuf were unable to find it. Native craft usually make fast in three + fathoms to a lumpy natural mole of modern sandstone, north of the + entrance: a little trimming would convert it into a first-rate pier. + </p> + <p> + At this place we landed to prospect the country, and to gather information + from the Sambúk crews before they had time to hoist sail and be off. The + owners of the land are not Juhaynah, the "Wild Men" with whom the Rais of + the Golden Wire had threatened us in 1853. The country belongs to the + Baliyy; now an inoffensive tribe well subject to Egypt, mixed with a few + Kura'án-Huwaytát and Karáizah-Hutaym. The fishermen complained that no + fish was to be caught, and the strong tides, setting upon the stony flank + of the mole, had broken most of the shells, not including, however, the + oysters. The usual eight-ribbed turtle appeared to be common. On the sands + to the north, M. Lacaze picked up a large old and bleached skull, which + went into my collection; we failed to find any neighbouring burial-ground. + Striking inland, however, towards the dotted square, marked "Fort (ruin)" + in the Chart, we came upon an ancient cemetery to the north of the bay, + and concluded that these graves had been mistaken for remains of building. + </p> + <p> + We then bent eastward towards the Jibál el-Salbah, and examined the two + dwarf valleys which, threading the heights, feed the Wady Dumayghah. That + to the south showed us a perfectly familiar formation; conglomerates of + water-rolled pebbles in the lower levels, and hills of the normal dark + porphyries, with large quartz-seams of many colours trending in every + direction. The mouth of the northern gorge was blocked by a vein of finely + crystallized carbonate of lime, containing geodes and bunches. The taste + is astringent, probably from the alumina; and it is based upon outcrops of + a sandy calcaire apparently fit for hydraulic cement. The only novelty in + the vegetation was the Fashak-tree, a creeper like a gigantic constrictor, + with sweet yellow wood somewhat resembling liquorice. + </p> + <p> + Signs of Arab everywhere appeared, but there were no tents. Consequently + we were unable to ascertain the extent of the water-supply—an + important matter if this is to become the port of El-Wijh. The Sambúks + might bring it, but the people on shore would be dependent upon what they + can find. The Hajj-road, running some miles inland, is doubtless supplied + with it. Even, however, were the necessary wanting, the pilgrim-ships, + whilst taking refuge here, could easily transport it from the south. + Shaykh Furayj; pointed out to us the far northern blue peaks of the ‘Amúd + Zafar, in whose branch-Wady lie the ruins of M'jirmah. The day ended with + a sudden trembling of the ship, as if straining at anchor; but the crew + was again performing fantasia, and the earthquake or sea-quake rolled + unheededly away. Apparently the direction was from north to south: I noted + the hour, 9.10 p.m., and the duration, twenty seconds. According to the + Arabs the Zilzilah is not uncommon in Midian, especially about the vernal + equinox: on this occasion it ended the spell of damp and muggy weather + which began on March 19th, and which may have been connected with it. + </p> + <p> + The survey soundings were not finished till nearly eight a.m. (March + 23rd), when the old corvette swung round on her heel; and, with the black + hills of Salbah to port, resumed her rolling, rollicking way southwards. + Her only ballast consisted of some six hundred conical shot, or twelve + tons for a ship of eight hundred. After one hour of steaming (= seven + miles) we passed the green mouth of the Wady ‘Antar, in whose Istabl + ("stable"), or upper valley-course, the pilgrimage-caravan camps. It + drains a small inland feature to the north-east, the true "Jebel ‘Antar," + which the Hydrographic Chart has confounded with the great block, + applying, moreover, the term Istabl to the height instead of the hollow. + This Jebel Libn, along which we are now steaming, is a counterpart on a + small scale, a little brother, of the Shárr, measuring 3733 instead of + 6000 to 6500 feet. We first see from the north a solid block capped with a + mural crown of three peaks. When abreast of us the range becomes a tall, + fissured, and perpendicular wall: this apical comb, bluff to the west, + reposes upon a base sloping, at the angle of rest, to the environing sandy + Wady. To complete the resemblance, even the queer "Pins" are not wanting; + and I should expect to find in it all the accidents of the giant of + El-Muwaylah. + </p> + <p> + The complexion of the Libn, which the people pronounce "Libin," suggests + grey granite profusely intersected with white quartz: hence, probably, the + name, identical with Lebanon and Libanus—"the Milk Mountain." The + title covers a multitude of peaks: the Bedawin have, doubtless, their own + terms for every head and every hollow. The citizens comprehensively divide + the block into two, El-Áli ("the Upper") being its southern, and El-Asfal + ("the Lower") its northern, section. It is said to abound in water; and a + Nakhil ("date-grove") is described as growing near the summit. The Hutaym, + who own most of it, claim the lover and hero-poet, ‘Antar, as one of their + despised tribe—hence, probably, his connection with the adjoining + mountain and "the stable." + </p> + <p> + "Jebel Libin" is the great feature of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah; for many + days it will appear to follow us, and this is the proper place for + assigning its rank and status to it. About El-‘Akabah, the northern head + of the Gháts or coast-range, we have prospected the single chain of Jebel + Shará'; the "Sa'ar of the tribes of the Shasu" (Bedawin)<a + href="#linknote-35" name="linknoteref-35" id="linknoteref-35"><small>35</small></a> + in the papyri, and the Hebrew Mount Seir, the "rough" or "rugged." Further + south we have noted how this tall eastern bulwark of the great Wady + el-‘Arabah bifurcates; forming the Shafah chain to the east, and westward + of it, in Madyan Proper, the Jibál el-Tihámah, of which the Shárr is + perhaps the culmination. We have noted the accidents of the latter as far + as Dumayghah Cove, and now we descry in the offing the misty forms—how + small they look!—of the Jebel el-Ward; the Jibál el-Safhah; the two + blocks, south of the Wady Hamz, known as the Jibál el-Rál; and their + neighbours still included in the Tihámat-Balawíyyah. Lastly, we shall + sight, behind El-Haurá, the Abú Ghurayr and a number of blocks which, like + the former, are laid down, but are not named, in the Chart. + </p> + <p> + Beyond El-Haurá the chain stretches southwards its mighty links with + smaller connections. The first is the bold range Jebel Radwah, the "Yambo + Hills" of the British sailor, some six thousand feet high and lying + twenty-five miles behind the new port.<a href="#linknote-36" + name="linknoteref-36" id="linknoteref-36"><small>36</small></a> Passing it + to left on the route to El-Medínah, I heard the fables which imposed upon + Abyssinian Bruce: "All sorts of Arabian fruits grew to perfection on the + summit of these hills; it is the paradise of the people of Yenbo, those of + any substance having country-houses there." This was hardly probable in + Bruce's day, and now it is impossible. The mountain is held by the Beni + Harb, a most turbulent tribe, for which see my "Pilgrimage."<a + href="#linknote-37" name="linknoteref-37" id="linknoteref-37"><small>37</small></a> + Their head Shaykh, Sa'd the Robber, who still flourished in 1853, is dead; + but he has been succeeded by one of his sons, Shaykh Hudayfah, who is + described with simple force as being a "dog more biting than his sire." + Between these ill-famed haunts of the Beni Harb and Jeddah rises the Jebel + Subh, "a mountain remarkable for its magnitude" (4500 feet), inhabited by + the Beni Subh, a fighting clan of the "Sons of Battle." + </p> + <p> + The largest links of these West-Arabian Gháts are of white-grey granite, + veined and striped with quartz; and they are subtended inland by the + porphyritic traps of the Jibál el-Shafah, which we shall trace to the + parallel of El-Hamz, the end of Egypt. I cannot, however, agree with + Wellsted (II. xii.) that the ridges increase in height as they recede from + the sea; nor that the veins of quartz run horizontally through the "dark + granite." The greater altitudes (three to six thousand feet) are visible + from an offing of forty to seventy miles; and they are connected by minor + heights: some of these, however, are considerable, and here and there they + break into detached pyramids. All are maritime, now walling the shore, + like the Tayyib Ism; then sheering away from it, where a broad "false + coast" has been built by Time. + </p> + <p> + These western Gháts, then, run down, either in single or in double line, + the whole length of occidental Arabia; and, meeting a similar and equally + important eastern line, they form a mighty nucleus, the mountains of + El-Yemen. After carefully inspecting, and making close inquiries + concerning, a section of some five hundred miles, I cannot but think that + the mines of precious ores, mentioned by the mediæval Arabian geographers,<a + href="#linknote-38" name="linknoteref-38" id="linknoteref-38"><small>38</small></a> + lay and lie in offsets from the flanks either of the maritime or the + inland chain; that is, either in the Tihámah, the coast lowlands, or in + the El-Nejd, the highland plateau of the interior. + </p> + <p> + What complicates the apparently simple ground is the long line of volcanic + action which, forming the eastern frontier of the plutonic granites and of + the modern grits, may put forth veins even to the shores of the ‘Akabah + Gulf and the Red Sea.<a href="#linknote-39" name="linknoteref-39" + id="linknoteref-39"><small>39</small></a> The length, known to me by + inquiry, would be about three degrees between north lat. 28° and 25°, the + latter being the parallel of El-Medínah; others make them extend to near + Yambú', in north lat. 24° 5'. They may stretch far to the north, and + connect, as has been suggested, with the Syrian centres of eruption, + discovered by the Palestine Exploration. I have already explained<a + href="#linknote-40" name="linknoteref-40" id="linknoteref-40"><small>40</small></a> + how and why we were unable to visit "the Harrah" lying east of the Hismá; + but we repeatedly saw its outlines, and determined that the lay is from + north-west to south-east. Further south, as will be noticed at El-Haurá, + the vertebrae curve seawards or to the south-west; and seem to mingle with + the main range, the mountains of the Tihámat-Jahaníyyah ("of the + Juhaynah"). Thus the formation assumes an importance which has never yet + been attributed to it; and the five several "Harrahs," reported to me by + the Bedawin, must be studied in connection with the mineralogical deposits + of the chains in contact with them. It must not be forgotten that a + fragment of porous basalt, picked up by the first Expedition near Makná, + yielded a small button of gold.<a href="#linknote-41" name="linknoteref-41" + id="linknoteref-41"><small>41</small></a> + </p> + <p> + Dreadfully rolled the Sinnár, as she ran close in-shore before the long + heavy swell from the north-west, and the old saying, Bon rouleur, bon + marcheur, is cold consolation to an active man made to idle malgré lui. + This section of the coast, unlike that to the north, is remarkably free + from reefs. A little relief was felt while sheltered by the short tract of + channel between the mainland and the shoals. But the nuisance returned in + force as, doubling the Ras Muraybit (not Marabat), we sighted the two + towers of El-Wijh, both beflagged, the round Burj of the fort, and the + cubical white-washed lighthouse crowning its rocky point. And we were + quiet once more when the Sinnár, having covered the thirty miles in four + hours and thirty minutes, cast anchor in the usual place, south-east of + the northern jaw. The main objection to our berth is that the prevailing + north wind drives in a rolling sea from the open west. The log showed a + total of 102 miles between the Sharms Yáhárr and El-Wijh, or 107 from the + latter to El-Muwaylah. + </p> + <p> + "El-Wijh," meaning the face, a word which the Egyptian Fellah perverts to + "Wish," lies in north lat. 26° 14'. It is the northernmost of the townlets + on the West Arabian shore, which gain importance as you go south; e.g., + Yambá', Jeddah, Mocha, and Aden. It was not wholly uncivilized during my + first visit, a quarter of a century ago, when I succeeded in buying opium + for feeble patients. Distant six stations from Yambá', and ten from + El-Medínah, it has been greatly altered and improved. The pilgrim-caravan, + which here did penance of quarantine till the last two years, has given it + a masonry pier for landing the unfortunates to encamp upon the southern or + uninhabited side of the cove. A tall and well-built lighthouse, now five + years old, boasts of a good French lantern, wanting only soap and decent + oil. Finally, guardhouses and bakehouses, already falling to ruins like + the mole, and an establishment for condensing water, still kept in working + order, are the principal and costly novelties of the southern shore. + </p> + <p> + The site of El-Wijh is evidently old, although the ruins have been buried + under modern buildings. Sprenger (p. 21) holds the townlet to be the port + of "Egra, a village" (El-Hajar, or "the town, the townlet"?) "in the + territory of Obodas," whence, according to Strabo (xvi. c. 4, § 24), Ælius + Gallus embarked his baffled troops for Myus Hormus.<a href="#linknote-42" + name="linknoteref-42" id="linknoteref-42"><small>42</small></a> Formerly + he believed El-Aúníd to be Strabo's "Egra," the haven for the north; as + El-Haurá was for the south, and El-Wijh for the central regions. Pliny + (vi. 32) also mentions the "Tamudæi, with their towns of Domata and Hegra, + and the town of Badanatha." It is generally remarked that "Egra" does not + appear in Ptolemy's lists; yet one of the best texts (Nobbe, Lipsia, 1843) + reads instead of the "Negran" which Pirckheymerus (Lugduni, MDXXXV.) and + others placed in north lat. 26°. + </p> + <p> + My learned friend writes to me—"El-Wijh, on the coast of Arabia, is + opposite to Qoçayr (El-Kusayr), where Ælius Gallus landed his troops. We + know that ‘Egra' is the name of a town in the interior, and it was the + constant habit to call the port after the capital of the country, e.g., + Arabia Emporium = Aden. We have now only to inquire whether El-Wijh had + claims to be considered the seaport of El-Hijr." This difficulty is easily + settled. El-Wijh is still the main, indeed the only, harbour in South + Midian; and, during our stay there, a large caravan brought goods, as will + be seen, from the upper Wady Hamz. + </p> + <p> + Under the influence of the quarantine, El-Wijh, the town on the northern + bank of its cove, has blossomed into a hauteville, dating from the last + dozen years. The ancient basseville, probably the site of many former + settlements, is now used chiefly for shops and stores. Another and a more + pretentious mosque has supplanted the little old Záwiyah ("chapel") with + its barbarous minaret, whose finial, a series of inverted crescents, might + be taken for a cross; while a Jámi' or "cathedral," begun in the upper + town, has stopped short through want of funds. Some of the best houses now + extend towards the northern point. As usual in Arab settlements, they are + long, tall claret-cases of coral-rag and burnt lime; flat-roofed, + whitewashed in front, and provided with wooden doors and shutters. Lastly, + on the slope still appears the smoky coffee-shed that witnessed the + memorable encounter between its surly proprietor and "Saad the Devil."<a + href="#linknote-43" name="linknoteref-43" id="linknoteref-43"><small>43</small></a> + </p> + <p> + Stony ramps, stiff as those of Gibraltar, connect the low with the high + town, the cool breezy new settlement upon the crest of the northern cliff, + whose noble view of the Jebel Libn and the palm-scattered Wady el-Wijh + were formerly monopolized by the fort and its round tower. This work, only + sixty-five years old, now stands so perilously near the undermined edge of + the rock-cornice, that some day it will come down with a run. It is used + by the garrison, and serves as a jail; but lately a Bedawi prisoner, like + a certain Mamlúk Bey, jumped down the precipitous cove-face and effected + his escape. Behind it are the "Doctors' Quarters," empty and desolate, + because the sanitary officers have been removed. They are sheds of + white-washed boarding, brought from the Crimea, like those of the Suez + Canal; and comfortably distributed into Harem, kitchens, offices, and + other necessaries. + </p> + <p> + The inhabitants of El-Wijh may number twelve hundred, without including + chance travellers and the few wretched Bedawin, Hutaym and others, who + pitch their black tents, like those of Alexandrian "Ramleh," about and + beyond the town. The people live well; and the merchants are large and + portly men, who evidently thrive upon meat and rice. Flesh is retailed in + the bazar, and mutton is cheap, especially when the Bedawin are near; a + fine large sheep being dear at ten shillings. Water is exceptionally + abundant, even without the condenser's aid. The poorer classes and animals + are watered at the pits and the two regular wells near the valley's mouth, + half an hour's trudge from the town. The wealthy are supplied by the + inland fort, which we shall presently visit: the distance going and coming + would be about four slow hours, and the skinful costs five Khurdah, or + copper piastres = three halfpence. The inner gardens grow a small quantity + of green meat: water-melons are brought from Yambá(?): opium and Hashísh + abound, but no spirits are for sale since the one Greek Bakkál, or petty + shopkeeper, "made tracks." He borrowed from a certain Surúr Selámah, negro + merchant and head miser, 150 napoleons, in order to buy on commission + certain bales of cotton shipwrecked up coast; he left in pledge the keys + of his miserable store, which, by-the-by, la loi refuses to open; he was + never seen again, and poor rich Surur is in the depths of despair. + </p> + <p> + One of the small industries of El-Wijh is the pearl trade. Mr. Clarke + bought for £4 (twenty dollars) a specimen of good round form but rather + yellow colour; and presently refused £5 for it. Those of pear-shape easily + fetch thirty-six to forty dollars. Turquoises set in sealing-wax are sold + cheap by the returning Persian pilgrims: the Zib el-Bahr ("Sea-wolf"), an + Egyptian cruiser, had carried off the best shortly before our arrival. The + people speak of an ‘Akík ("carnelian") which, rubbed down in vinegar, + enters into the composition of a favourite philtre—we could not, + however, find any for sale. On our return, an ‘Anezah caravan of some + ninety camels, driven by a hundred or so of spearmen and matchlockmen, + came in loaded with valuable Samn or clarified butter: the fact suggests + that the time has come for establishing a Gumruk ("custom-house") at + El-Wijh. Another source of wealth will be El-Melláhah, "the salina," along + which we shall travel: every man who has a donkey may carry off what he + pleases, and sell to pilgrims and Bedawin the kilogramme for four piastres + copper (= one piastre currency = five farthings). This again should be + taken in hand by Government; and regular "salterns," like those of + Triestine Capodistria, would greatly increase the quantity. Nothing can be + better than the quality except rock-salt. There is another salina about + one hour down the coast, formed by a reef, near the Ras el-Ma'llah. + </p> + <p> + The afternoon of arrival was spent in receiving visits. The Muháfiz or + "civil governor," Hasan Bey, calls himself a Circassian: he is a handsome + old man, whose straight features suggest the Greek slave, and who served + in the Syrian campaigns under Ibrahim Pasha. Forty years ago he left his + home; he has been here six years, and yet he knows absolutely nothing of + the interior. He ought to reside at the inland fort, but he prefers the + harbour-town; and he had not the common-sense to ride out with us. He + shows his zeal by inventing obstacles; for instance, he suggests that the + Bedawin should leave, during our journey, hostages at the fort: this is + wholly unnecessary, and means only piastres. The Yuzbáshi, or "military + commandant," Sid-Ahmed Effendi, has charge of the forty-five regulars, + half a company, who garrison the post and outpost. The chief merchant, who + afterwards volunteered to be our travelling companion, is Mohammed + Shahádah, formerly Wakil ("agent") of the fort, a charge now abolished by + a pound-foolish policy: he is an honest and intelligent, a charitable and + companionable man, who has travelled far and wide over the interior, and + who knows the tribes by heart. I strongly recommended him to his Highness + the Viceroy. His brothers, Bedawi and Ali Shahádah, are also open-handed + to the poor; very unlike their brother-in-law Surúr Selámah, formerly a + slave to the father of Mohammed Selámah whom we had met at Zibá. The list + of notables ends with the Sayyid Ibrahim El-Mara'í and with the sturdy Abd + el-Hakk, pearl and general merchant. All recognized our friend the Sayyid, + whom even the "gutter-boys" saluted by name; and, although the Arab manner + is blunt and independent, all showed perfect civility. It is needless to + say that our late work, and our future plans, were known to everybody at + El-Wijh as well as to ourselves; and that the tariffs of pay and hire, + established in the North Country, at once became the norm of the South. + </p> + <p> + Our favourite walk at old "Egra" was to the quarantine-ground and the + lighthouse. The situation of the town is by no means satisfactory, and the + heavy dews of April, wetting the streets, cause frequent fevers. En + revanche, nothing can be more healthy or exhilarating than the air of the + tall plateau to the south of the cove. The quarantine-ground, with its + grand view of the mountains inland, ends seawards in the Pharos that + commands an horizon of blue water. The latter, according to the charts, is + one hundred and six feet above sea-level, and is theoretically visible for + fourteen miles; practice would reduce this radius to ten, and the least + haze to six and even five. + </p> + <p> + The lighthouse-charges are strongly objected to by the skippers of Arab + fishing-boats, although very small in their case. Square-rigged vessels + pay per ton twenty parahs (tariff): thus it costs a ship of five hundred + tons £2 10s. (Turkish). The keeper. under Admiral M'Killop (Pasha), a + young Greek named "Gurjí," as "George" here sounds, is assisted by a + Moslem lad, Mohammed Effendi of Alexandria. They serve for three years, + and they look forward to the end of them. The former also superintends the + condensing establishment: this office is a sinecure, except during the + three months of pilgrim-passage. The machine can distil eighteen tons per + diem; and there is another water-magazine, an old paddle-wheeler moored to + the beach under the town. Behind the establishment lies the + pilgrim-cemetery. frequented by hyenas that prowl around the lighthouse, + threatening the canine guard. I found a new use for this vermin's brain: + it is administered by the fair ones at El-Wijh to jealous husbands, upon + whom, they tell me, it acts as a sedative. + </p> + <p> + El-Wijh has been heard of in England as the prophylactic against the + infected Hejaz. It is admirably suited for quarantine purposes, and it has + been abolished, very unwisely, in favour of "Tor harbour." The latter, + inhabited by a ring of thievish Syro-Greek traders; backed by a wretched + wilderness, alternately swampy and sandy, is comfortless to an extent + calculated to make the healthiest lose health. Moreover, its climate, says + Professor Palmer (p. 222), is very malarious: "owing to the low and marshy + nature of the ground, there is a great deal of miasma even in the winter + season." Finally, and worst of all, it is near enough to Suez for + infection to travel easily. A wealthy pilgrim has only to pay a few gold + pieces, his escape to the mountains is winked at; and thence he travels or + voyages comfortably to Suez and Cairo. Even without such irregularities, + the transmission of contaminated clothing, or other articles, would + suffice to spread cholera, typhus, and smallpox. Tor is, in fact, an + excellent medium for focussing and for propagating contagious disease; and + its vicinity to Egypt, and consequently to Europe, suggests that it should + at once be abolished. + </p> + <p> + At first I lent ear to the popular statement at El-Wijh; namely, that the + visiting doctors and the resident sanitary officers naturally prefer the + shorter to the longer voyage, and the nearer station to that further from + home. Moreover, inasmuch as, if inclined to be dishonest, they find more + opportunities in the north, it was their interest to transfer the + establishment to Tor. The local authorities, the people assured me, were + induced to report that the single fort-well had run dry; that the + condensers had proved a failure, and that the old steamer-magazine, into + which they had poured brine, was leaky and inefficient. But what was my + astonishment when, after return to Cairo, I was told that the change had + been strongly advocated by the English Government? + </p> + <p> + The objections to El-Wijh are two, both equally invalid. The port is + dangerous, especially when westerly winds are blowing: ships during the + pilgrimage-season must bank their fires, ever ready to run out. True; but + it has been shown that Sharm Dumayghah, the best of its kind, lies only + thirty knots to the north. The second, want of water, or of good water, is + even less cogent. We have seen that the seaboard wells supply the poorer + classes and animals; and we shall presently see the Fort-wells, which, in + their day, have watered caravans containing twenty to thirty thousand + thirsty men and beasts. So far from the condensers being a failure, the + tank still holds about twenty tons of distilled water, although it gives + drink to some thirty mouths composing the establishment. Finally, the old + steamer has done its duty well, and, like the proverbial Marine, is still + ready to do its duty again.<a href="#linknote-44" name="linknoteref-44" + id="linknoteref-44"><small>44</small></a> + </p> + <p> + Thus the expense of laying out the quarantine-ground at El-Wijh has been + pitifully wasted. That, however, is a very small matter; the neglect of + choosing a proper position is serious, even ominous. Unlike Tor, nothing + can be healthier or freer from fever than the pilgrims' plateau. From + El-Wijh, too, escape is hopeless: the richest would not give a piastre to + levant; because, if a solitary traveller left the caravan, a Bedawi bullet + would soon prevail on him to stop. This, then, should be the first long + halt for the "compromised" travelling northwards. When contagious disease + has completely disappeared, the second precautionary delay might be either + at Tor or, better still, at the "Wells of Moses" (‘Uyun Músá), near the + head of the Suez Gulf: here sanitary conditions are far more favourable; + and here supplies, including medical comforts, would be cheaper as well as + more abundant. Briefly, it is my conviction that, under present + circumstances, "Tor" is a standing danger, not only to Egypt, but to + universal Europe. + </p> + <p> + The coast about El-Wijh is famed for shells; the numerous reefs and shoals + favouring the development of the molluscs. We were promised a heavy haul + by the citizens, who, however, contented themselves with picking up the + washed-out specimens found everywhere on the shore: unfortunately we had + no time to superintend the work. A caseful was submitted to the British + Museum, and a few proved interesting on account of their locality. The + list printed at the end of this chapter was kindly supplied to me by Mr. + Edgar A. Smith, superintendent of the Conchological Department. + </p> + <p> + I will conclude this chapter with a short notice the Hutaym or Hitaym, a + people extremely interesting to me. They are known to travellers only as a + low caste. Wellsted (II. xii.) tells us that the "Huteimi," whom he would + make the descendants of the Ichthyophagi described by Diodorus Siculus and + other classics, are noticed by several Arabian authorities. "In one, the + Kitab el-Mush Serif<a href="#linknote-45" name="linknoteref-45" + id="linknoteref-45"><small>45</small></a> (Musharrif?), they are styled + ‘Hooteïn,' the descendants of ‘Hooter,' a servant of Moses." He also + relates a legend that the Apostle of Allah pronounced them polluted, + because they ate the flesh of dogs. Others declare that they opposed + Mohammed when he was rebuilding the Ka'bah; and thereby drew upon + themselves the curse that they should be held the "basest of the Arabs." + These tales serve to prove one fact, the antiquity of the race. + </p> + <p> + The Hutaym, meaning the "Broken" (tribe), hold, in Midian and Egypt, the + position of Pariahs, like the Akhdám "serviles", or Helots, of Maskat and + El-Yemen. No clan of pure Arabs will intermarry with them; and when the + Fellahs say, Tatahattim (=tatamaskin or tatazalli), they mean, "Thou + cringest, thou makest thyself contemptible as a Hutaymi." Moreover, they + must pay the dishonouring Akháwat, or "brother-tax," to all the Bedawin + amongst whom they settle. + </p> + <p> + The Hutaym are scattered as they are numerous. They have extended, + probably in ancient times, to Upper Egypt, and occupy parts of Nubia; + about Sawákin they are an important clan. They number few in the Sinaitic + Peninsula and in Midian, but they occupy the very heart of the Arabian + Peninsula. Those settled on Jebel Libn, we have seen, claim as their + kinsman the legendary ‘Antar, who was probably a negro of the noble + Semitic stock. A few are camped about El-Wijh; and they become more + important down coast. In the eastern regions bordering upon Midian, they + form large and powerful bodies, such as the Nawámisah and the Sharárát, + whose numbers and bravery secure for them the respect of their fighting + equestrian neighbours, the Ruwalá-‘Anezah. + </p> + <p> + Like other Arabs, the Hutaym tribe is divided into a multitude of clans, + septs, and families, each under its own Shaykh. All are Moslems, after the + Desert pattern, a very rude and inchoate article. Wellsted knew them by + their remarkably broad chins: the Bedawi recognize them by their look; by + their peculiar accent, and by the use of certain peculiar words, as Harr! + when donkey-driving. The men are unwashed and filthy; the women walk + abroad unveiled, and never refuse themselves, I am told, to the higher + blood. + </p> + <p> + The Arabs of Midian always compare the Hutaym with the Ghagar (Ghajar) or + Gypsies of Egypt; and this is the point which gives the outcasts a passing + interest. I have not yet had an opportunity of carefully studying the + race; nor can I say whether it shows any traces of skill in metal-working. + Meanwhile, we must inquire whether these Helots, now so dispersed, are not + old immigrants of Indian descent, who have lost their Aryan language, like + the Egyptian Ghajar. In that case they would represent the descendants of + the wandering tribes who worked the most ancient ateliers. Perhaps they + may prove to be congeners of the men of the Bronze Age, and of the + earliest waves of Gypsy-immigration into Europe. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + NOTE. +</pre> + <p> + A list of the shells collected by the second Khedivial Expedition on the + shore of Midian and the Gulf of ‘Akabah, by Edgar A. Smith, Esq., British + Museum. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +I. Gastropoda. + 1. Conus textile, Linné. + 2. Conus sumatrensis, Hwass. + 3. Conus catus var., Hwass. + 4. Conus larenatus, Hwass. + 5. Conus hebræus, Linné. + 6. Conus ividus(?), Hwass. + 6a. Conus ceylanensis, Hwass. + 7. Terebra maculata, Linné. + 8. Terebra dimidiata, Linné. + 9. Terebra consobrina, Deshayes. + 10. Terebra (Impages) cærulescens, Lamarck. + 11. Pleurotoma cingulifera, Lamarck. + 11a. Murex tribulus, Linn. + 12. Murex (Chicoreus) inflatus, Lamarck. + 13. Cassidulus paradisiacus, Reeve. + 14. Nassa coronata, Lamarck. + 15. Nassa pulla, Linné. + 16. Engina (Pusiostoma) mendicaria, Lamarck. + 17. Cantharus (Tritonidea) sp. juv. + 18. Purpura hippocastanum, Lamarck. + 19. Sistrum arachnoides, Lamarck. + 20. Sistrum fiscellum, Chemnitz. + 21. Sistrum tuberculatum, Blainville. + 22. Harpa solida, A. Adams. + 23. Fasciolaria trapezium, Lamarck. + 24. Turbinella cornigera, Lamarck. + 25. Dolium (Malea) pomum, Linné. + 26. Triton maculosus, Reeve. + 27. Triton aquatilis, Reeve. + 28. Triton (Persona) anus, Lamarck. + 29. Natica (Polinices) mamilla, Linné. + 30. Natica albula(?), Récluz. + 31. Natica (Mamilla) melanostoma, Lamarck. + 32. Solarium perspectivum, Linné. + 33. Cypræa arabica, Linné. + 34. Cypræa pantherina, Linné. + 35. Cypræa camelopardalis, Perry. + 36. Cypræa carneola, Linné. + 37. Cypræa scurra, Chemnitz. + 38. Cypræa erosa, Linné. + 39. Cypræa tabescens(?), Solander. + 40. Cypræa caurica, Linné. + 41. Cypræa talpa, Linné. + 41B. Cypraea lynx, Linné. + 42. Cerithium tuberosum, Fabricius. + 43. Turritella torulosa(?), Kiener. + 44. Strombus tricornis, Lamarck. + 45. Strombus gibberulus, Linné. + 46. Strombus floridus, Lamarck. + 47. Strombus fasciatus, Born. + 48. Pterocera truncatum, Lamarck. + 49. Planaxis breviculus, Deshayes. + 50. Nerita marmorata, Reeve. + 51. Nerita quadricolor, Gmelin. + 52. Nerita rumphii Récluz. + 53. Turbo petholatus, Linné. + 54. Turbo chrysostoma var.(?), Linné. + 55. Trochus (Pyramis) dentatus, Forskâl. + 56. Trochus (Cardinalia) virgatus, Gmelin. + 57. Trochus (Polydonta) sanguinolentus, Chemnitz. + 58. Trochus (Clanculus) pharaonis, Linné. + 59. Trochus (Monodonta) sp. + 60. Patella variabilis(?), Krauss. + 61. Chiton sp. + 62. Bulla ampulla, Linné. +</pre> + <p> + II. Conchifera + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 63. Dione florida, Lamarck. + 64. Dione sp. + 65. Tellina staurella, Lamarck. + 66. Paphia glabrata, Gmelin. + 67. Chama Ruppellii, Reeve. + 68. Arca (Barbatia) sp. + 68a Arca (Senilia) sp. + 69. Cardium leucostoma, Born. + 70. Venericardia Cumingii, Deshayes. + 71. Modiola auriculata, Krauss. + 72. Pectunculus lividus, Reeve. + 73. Pectunculus pectenoides, Deshayes. + 74. Avicula margaritifera, Linné. + 75. Tridacna gigas, Linné. +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XV. — The Southern Sulphur-hill—the Cruise to El-Haurá—Notes + on the + </h2> + <p> + Baliyy Tribe and the Volcanic Centres of North—Western Arabia. + </p> + <p> + On the day of our arrival at El-Wijh I sent a hurried letter of invitation + to Mohammed ‘Afnán, Shaykh of the Baliyy tribe; inviting him to visit the + Expedition, and to bring with him seventy camels and dromedaries. His + tents being pitched at a distance of three days' long march in the + interior, I determined not to waste a precious week at the end of the cold + season; and the party was once more divided. Anton, the Greek, was left as + storekeeper, with orders to pitch a camp, to collect as much munition de + bouche as possible, and to prepare for this year's last journey into the + interior. MM. Marie and Philipin, with Lieutenant Yusuf, Cook Giorji, and + Body-servant Ali Marie, were directed to march along the shore southwards. + After inspecting a third Jebel el-Kibrít, they would bring back notices of + the Wady Hamz, near whose banks I had heard vague reports of a Gasr + (Kasr), "palace" or "castle," built by one Gurayyim Sa'íd. Meanwhile, the + rest of us would proceed in the Sinnár to El-Haurá, a roundabout cruise of + a hundred miles to the south. + </p> + <p> + M. Philipin lost time in shoeing very imperfectly his four mules; and M. + Marie, who could have set out with eight camels at any moment, delayed + moving till March 26th. The party was composed of a single Básh-Buzúk from + the fort, and two quarrymen: the Ras Káfilah was young Shaykh Sulaymán bin + ‘Afnán—of whom more presently—while his brother-in-law Hammád + acted guide. At 6.40 a.m. they struck to the south-east of the town, and + passed the two brackish pits or wells, Bir el-Isma'íl and El-Sannúsi, + which supply the poor of the port. Thence crossing the broad Wady el-Wijh, + they reached, after a mile's ride, Wady Melláhah, or "the salina." It is + an oval, measuring some eighteen hundred yards from north to south: the + banks are padded with brown slush frosted white; which, in places, "bogs" + the donkeys and admits men to the knee. Beyond it lie dazzling blocks of + pure crystallized salt; and the middle of the pond is open, tenanted by + ducks and waterfowl, and visited by doves and partridges. At the lower or + northern end, a short divide separates it from the sea; and the waves, + during the high westerly gales, run far inland: it would be easy to open a + regular communication between the harbour and its saltern. The head is + formed by the large Wady Surrah, whose many feeders at times discharge + heavy torrents. The walls of the valley-mouth are marked, somewhat like + the Hárr, with caverned and corniced cliffs of white, canary-yellow, and + light-pink sandstone. + </p> + <p> + They then left to the right the long point Ras el-Ma'llah, fronting + Mardúnah Island. Here, as at El-‘Akabah and Makná, sweet water springs + from the salt sands of the shore; a freak of drainage, a kind of "Irish + bull" of Nature, so common upon the dangerous Somali seaboard. The tract + leads to the south-east, never further from the shore than four or five + miles, but separated by rolling ground which hides the main. For the same + reason the travellers were unable to sight the immense development of + granite-embedded quartz, which lurks amongst the hills to the inland or + east, and which here subtends the whole coast-line. They imagined + themselves to be in a purely Secondary formation of gypsum and + conglomerates, cut by a succession of Wady-beds like the section between + El-Muwaylah and ‘Aynúnah. Thus they crossed the mouths of the + watercourses, whose heads we shall sight during the inland march, and + whose mid-lengths we shall pass when marching back to El-Wijh. + </p> + <p> + These exceedingly broad beds are divided, as usual, by long lines of + Nature-metalled ground. The first important feature is the Wady Surrah, + which falls into the Wady el-Wijh a little above the harbour-pier: its + proper and direct mouth, El-Gá'h (Ká'h), or "the Hall," runs along-shore + into the Melláhah. It drains the Hamíratayn, or "Two Reds;" the Hamírat + Surrah in the Rughám or Secondary formation, and the granitic mass Hamírat + el-Nabwah, where the plutonic outbreaks begin. Amongst the number of + important formations are:—the Wady el-Miyáh, which has a large + salt-well near the sea, and down whose upper bed we shall travel after + leaving Umm el-Karáyát; the Wady el-Kurr, whose acquaintance we shall make + in the eastern region; and the Wady el-‘Argah (‘Arjah). The latter is the + most interesting. Near its head we shall find knots of ruins, and the + quartz-reef Abá'l-Marú; while lower down the bed, on the north-east side + of a hill facing the valley, Lieutenant Yusuf came upon a rock scrawled + over with religious formulæ, Tawakkaltu ‘al' Allah ("I rely upon Allah"), + and so forth, all in a comparatively modern Arabic character. The + inscriptions lie to the left of the shore road, and to the right of the + pilgrim-highway; thus showing that miners, not passing travellers, have + here left their mark. + </p> + <p> + After riding five hours and forty minutes (= seventeen miles) the party + reached the base of the third sulphur-hill discovered by the Expedition on + the coast of Midian. Also known as the Tuwayyil el-Kibrít, the + "Little-long (Ridge) of Brimstone," it appears from afar a reddish pyramid + rising about two miles inland of an inlet, which is said to be safe + navigation. Thus far it resembles the Jibbah find: on the other hand, it + is not plutonic, but chalky like those of Makná and Sinai, the crystals + being similarly diffused throughout the matrix. In the adjoining hills and + cliffs the Secondaries and the conglomerates take all shades of colour, + marvellous to behold when the mirage raises to giant heights the white + coast-banks patched with pink, red, mauve, and dark brown. Moreover, the + quarries of mottled alabaster, which the Ancients worked for + constructions, still show themselves. + </p> + <p> + The travellers slept at the base of the Tuwayyil. Next morning M. Philipin + proceeded to collect specimens of the sulphur and of the chalcedony-agate + strewed over the plain, and here seen for the first time. M. Marie and + Lieutenant Yusuf rode on to the banks of the Wady Hamz; and, after three + hours (= nine miles), they came upon the "Castle" and unexpectedly turned + up trumps. I had carelessly written for them the name of a ruin which all, + naturally enough, believed would prove to be one of the normal barbarous + Hawáwít. They brought back specimens of civilized architecture; and these + at once determined one of the objectives of our next journey. The party + returned to El-Wijh on the next day, in the highest of spirits, after a + successful trip of more than fifty miles. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile I steamed southwards, accompanied by the rest of the party, + including the Sayyid, Shaykh Furayj, and the ex-Wakíl, Mohammed Shahádah, + who is trusted by the Bedawin, and who brought with him a guide of the + Fawá'idah-Juhaynah, one Rájih ibn ‘Ayid. This fellow was by no means a + fair specimen of his race: the cynocephalous countenance, the cobweb + beard, and the shifting, treacherous eyes were exceptional; the bellowing + voice and the greed of gain were not. He had a free passage for himself, + his child, and eight sacks of rice, with the promise of a napoleon by way + of "bakhshísh;" yet he complained aloud that he had no meat to break his + fast at dawn—an Arab of pure blood would rather have starved. He + shirked answering questions concerning the number of his tribe. "Many, + many!" was all the information we could get from him; and his Arabic + wanted the pure pronunciation, and the choice vocabulary, that usually + distinguish the Juhayni pilots. Arrived at his own shore, he refused to + make arrangements for disembarking his rice; he ordered, with bawling + accents and pointed stick, the sailors of the man-of-war to land it at the + place chosen by himself; and he bit his finger when informed that a sound + flogging was the normal result of such impudence. + </p> + <p> + We set out at 4.30 p.m. (March 24th); and steamed due west till we had + rounded the northern head of El-Raykhah, a long low island which, lying + west-south-west of El-Wijh, may act breakwater in that direction. Then we + went south-west, and passed to port the white rocks of Mardu'nah Isle, + which fronts the Ras el-Ma'llah, capping the ugly reefs and shoals that + forbid tall ships to hug this section of the shore. It is described as a + narrow ridge of coralline, broken into pointed masses two to three hundred + feet high, whose cliffs and hollows form breeding-places for wild pigeons: + the unusually rugged appearance is explained by the fact that here the + "Jinns" amuse themselves with hurling rocks at one another. Before night + we had sighted the Ras Kurkumah, so called from its "Curcuma" (turmeric) + hue, the yellow point facing the islet-tomb of Shaykh Marbat.<a + href="#linknote-46" name="linknoteref-46" id="linknoteref-46"><small>46</small></a> + Upon this part of the shore, I was told, are extensive ruins as yet + unvisited by Europeans, the dangerous Juhaynah being the obstacle. To the + south-east towered tall and misty forms, the Gháts of the + Tihámat-Jahaníyyah. Northernmost, and prolonging the Libn, that miniature + Shárr, is the regular wall of the Jebel el-Ward; then come the peaks and + pinnacles of the Jibál el-Safhah; and lastly, the twin blocks El-Rál, + between which passes the Egyptian Hajj when returning from El-Medínah. + Faint resemblances of these features sprawl, like huge caterpillars, over + the Hydrographic Chart, but all sprawl unnamed. + </p> + <p> + By way of extra precaution we stood to the south instead of the + south-east, thus lengthening to one hundred and twenty knots the normal + hundred (dir. geog. sixty-eight) separating El-Wijh from the Jebel + Hassáni. Moreover, we caught amidships a fine lumpy sea, that threatened + to roll the masts out of the stout old corvette. As the Sinnár, which + always reminded me of her Majesty's steamship Zebra, is notably the + steadiest ship in the Egyptian navy, the captain was asked about his + ballast. He replied, "I have just taken command, but I don't think there + is any; the engine (El-‘iddah) is our Saburra"—evidently he had + never seen the hold. This state of things, which, combined with open + ports, foundered her Majesty's sailing frigate Eurydice, appears the rule + of the Egyptian war-navy. I commend the consideration to English sailors. + </p> + <p> + The steering also was detestable; and the man at the wheel could not see + the waves—a sine quâ non to the mariner in these latitudes, who + "broaches to" whenever he can. A general remark: The Egyptian sailor is + first-rate in a Dahabiyyah (Nile-boat), which he may capsize once in a + generation; and ditto in a Red Sea Sambúk, where he is also thoroughly at + home. The same was the case with the Sultan of Maskat's Arabo-English + navy: the Arabs and Sídís (negroes) were excellent at working their + Mtepe-craft; on frigates they were monkeys, poor copies of men. Our + European vessels are beyond and above the West Asiatic and the African. He + becomes at the best a kind of imitation Jack Tar. He will not, or rather + he cannot, take the necessary trouble, concentrate his attention, fix his + mind upon his "duties." He says "Inshallah;" he relies upon Allah; and he + prays five times a day, when he should be giving or receiving orders. The + younger generation of officers, it is true, drinks wine, and does not + indulge in orisons whilst it should be working; but its efficiency is + impaired by the difficulties and delay in granting pensions. The many grey + beards, however carefully dyed, suggest an equipage de vétérans. + </p> + <p> + The consequence of yawing and of running half-speed by night was that we + reached Jebel Hassáni just before noon, instead of eight a.m., on the + 25th. The island, whose profile slopes to the south-eastward, is a long + yellow-white ridge, a lump of coralline four hundred feet high, bare and + waterless in summer: yet it feeds the Bedawi flocks at certain seasons. It + is buttressed and bluff to the south-west, whence the strongest winds + blow; and it is prolonged by a flat spit to the south-east, and by a long + tail of two vertebrae, a big and a little joint, trending north-west. Thus + it gives safe shelter from the Wester to Arab barques;<a + href="#linknote-47" name="linknoteref-47" id="linknoteref-47"><small>47</small></a> + and still forms a landmark for those navigating between Jeddah, Kusayr, + and Suez. Its parallel runs a few miles north of the Dædalus Light (north + lat. 24° 55' 30") to the west; and it lies a little south of El-Haurá on + the coast, and of El-Medínah, distant about one hundred and thirty direct + miles in the interior. If Ptolemy's latitudes are to be consulted, Jebel + Hassáni would be the Timagenes Island in north lat. 25° 40'; and the + corresponding Chersónesus Point is represented by the important and + well-marked projection "Abú Madd," which intercepts the view to the south. + </p> + <p> + After rounding the southern spit, we turned to north-east and by east, and + passed, with a minimum of seven fathoms under keel, between Hassáni the + Giant and the dwarf Umm Sahr, a flat sandbank hardly visible from the + shore. This is the only good approach to the secure and spacious bay that + bore the southernmost Nabathæan port-town: there are northern and + north-western passages, but both require skilful pilots; and every other + adit, though apparently open, is sealed by reefs and shoals. With the blue + and regular-lined curtain of Abú el-Ghurayr in front, stretching down + coast to Ras Abú Madd, we bent gradually round to the north-east and east. + We then left to starboard the settlement El-Amlij, a long line of separate + ‘Ushash, the usual Ichthyophagan huts, dull, dark-brown wigwams. They were + apparently deserted; at least, only two women appeared upon the shore, but + sundry Katírahs and canoes warned us that fishermen were about. We ran for + safety a mile and three-quarters north of the exposed Ras el-Haurá; and at + 1.30 p.m. (= twenty-one hours) we anchored, in nine fathoms, under the + Kutá'at el-Wazamah. The pea-green shallows, which defended us to the north + and south, had lately given protection to the Khedivíyyah<a + href="#linknote-48" name="linknoteref-48" id="linknoteref-48"><small>48</small></a> + steamer El-Hidayyidah, compelled by an accident to creep along-shore like + a Sambúk. + </p> + <p> + El-Haura' is not found either in the charts, or in Ptolemy's and + Sprenger's maps. It lies in north lat. 25° 6', about the same parallel as + El-Medínah; and in east long. (Gr.) 37° 13' 30".<a href="#linknote-49" + name="linknoteref-49" id="linknoteref-49"><small>49</small></a> Wellsted + (II. x.) heard of its ruins, but never saw it: at least, he says, "In the + vicinity of El-Haurá, according to the Arabs, are some remains of + buildings and columns, but our stay on the coast was too limited to permit + our examining the spot." He is, however, greatly in error when he adds, + "Near this station the encampments of the Bili' (Baliyy) tribe to the + southward terminate, and those of the Joheïnah commence." As has been + seen, the frontier is nearly fifty miles further north. He notices (chap. + ix.) the "White Village" to differ with Vincent, who would place it at + El-Muwaylah; but he translates the word (ii. 461) "the bright-eyed girl," + instead of Albus (Vicus). He quotes, however, the other name, Dár + el-‘ishrin ("Twentieth Station"), so called because the Cairo caravan + formerly reached it in a score of days, now reduced to nineteen. He seems, + finally, to have landed in order to inspect "a ruined town on the main," + and to have missed it. + </p> + <p> + According to Sprenger, the "White Village, or Castle," was not a + Thamudite, but a Nabathæan port. Here Æelius Gallius disembarked his + troops from Egypt. Strabo (xvi. c. 4, § 24) shows that was the + starting-place of the caravans which, before the Nile route to Alexandria + was opened, carried to Petra the merchandise of India and of Southern + Arabia. Thence the imports were passed on to Phoenicia and Egypt:—these + pages have shown why the journey would be preferred to the voyage + northward. He is confirmed by the "Periplus," which relates (chap. xix.) + that "from the port, and the castellum of Leukè Kóme, a road leads to + Petra, the capital of the Malicha (El-Malik), King of the Nabathæans: it + also serves as an emporium to those who bring wares in smaller ships from + Arabia (Mocha, Múza, and Aden). For the latter reason, a Perceptor or + toll-taker, who levies twenty-five per cent. ad valorem, and a + Hekatontarches (centurion), with a garrison, are there stationed." As the + Nabatæ were vassals of Rome, and the whole region had been ceded to the + Romans (Byzantines) by a chief of the Beni Kudá' tribe, this Yuzbáshi or + "military commandant" was probably a Roman. + </p> + <p> + El-Haurá, like most of the ruined settlements upon this coast, shows two + distinct "quarters;" a harbour-town and what may be called a country-town. + The latter, whose site is by far the more picturesque and amene, lay upon + a long tongue of land backing the slope of the sea-cliff, and attached to + the low whitish hillocks and pitons rising down south. It is now a + luxuriant orchard of emerald palms forming three large patches. Behind it + swells a dorsum of golden-yellow sand; and the horizon is closed by ranges + of hills and highlands, red and white, blue and black. Our eyes are + somewhat startled by the amount of bright and vivid green: for some + reason, unknown to us, the shore is far more riant than the northern + section; and the land might be called quasi-agricultural. The whole coast + seems to be broken with verdant valleys; from the Wady el-‘Ayn, with its + numerous branches beautifying the north, to the Wady el-Daghaybaj in the + south, supplying water between its two paps. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of our arrival, we landed in a shallow bay bearing + north-north-east (30° mag.) from the roads where the corvette lay at + anchor; and walked a few yards inland to the left bank of the Wady + el-Samnah, the unimportant Fiumara draining low hills of the same name. + The loose sand is everywhere strewed with bits of light porous lava, which + comes from the Harrat el-Buhayr, a bluff quoin to the north-west. About + El-Haurá, I have said, the volcanic formations, some sixty miles inland on + the parallel of El-Muwaylah, approach the coast. + </p> + <p> + We were guided to the ruins by the shouts of sundry Arabs defending their + harvest against a dangerous enemy, the birds—rattles and scarecrows + were anything but scarce. Apparently the sand contains some fertilizing + matter. A field of dry and stunted Dukhn (Holcus Dochna), or small millet, + nearly covers the site of the old castle, whose outline, nearly buried + under the drift of ages, we could still trace. There are two elevations, + eastern and western; and a third lies to the north, on the right side of + the Wady Samnah. Scatters of the usual fragments lay about, and the blocks + of white coralline explained the old names—Whitton, Whitworth, + Whitby. The Bedawin preserve the tradition that this was the most + important part of the settlement, which extended southwards nearly four + miles. The dwarf valley-mouth is still a roadstead, where two small craft + were anchored; and here, doubtless, was the corner of the hive allotted to + the community's working-bees. An old fibster, Hámid el-Fá'idi, declared + that he would bring us from the adjacent hills a stone which, when heated, + would pour forth metal like water—and never appeared again. It was + curious to remark how completely the acute Furayj believed him, because + both were Arabs and brother Bedawin. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we set out, shortly after the red and dewy sunrise, to visit + the south end of Leukè Kóme. The party consisted of twenty marines under + an officer, besides our escort of ten negro "Remingtons:" the land was + open, and with these thirty I would willingly have met three hundred + Bedawin. Our repulse from the Hismá had rankled in our memories, and we + only wanted an opportunity of showing fight. After rowing a mile we + landed, south-east of the anchorage (127° mag.), at a modern ruin, four + blocks of the rudest masonry, built as a store by a Yambú' merchant. + Unfortunately he had leased the ground from the Fawá'idah clan, when the + Hámidah claim it: the result was a "faction fight"—and nothing done. + </p> + <p> + A few minutes' walking, over unpleasantly deep sand, placed us upon the + Hajj-road. It is paved, like the shore, with natural slabs and ledges of + soft modern sandstone; and, being foot-worn, it makes a far better road + than that which connects Alexandria with Ramleh. The broad highway, + scattered with quartz and basalt, greenstone, and serpentine, crossed one + of the many branches of the Wady el-‘Ayn: in the rich and saltish sand + grew crops of Dukhn, and the Halfá-grass (Cynosures durus) of the Nile + Valley, with tamarisk-thickets, and tufts of fan-palm. On its left bank a + lamp-black vein of stark-naked basalt, capped by jagged blocks, ran down + to the sea, and formed a conspicuous buttress. The guides spoke of a + similar volcanic outcrop above Point Abú Madd to the south; and of a third + close to Yambá' harbour. + </p> + <p> + An hour of "stravaguing" walk showed us the first sign of the ruins: + wall-bases built with fine cement, crowning the summit of a dwarf mound to + the left of the road; well-worked scoriæ were also scattered over its + slopes. We now entered the date orchards conspicuous from the sea: on both + sides of us were fences of thorn, tamped earth, and dry stone; young trees + had been planted, and, beyond the dates, large fields of Dukhn again gave + an agricultural touch to the scene. Flocks of sheep and goats were being + grazed all around us; and the owners made no difficulty, as they would + have done further north, in selling us half a dozen. + </p> + <p> + We then entered the Wady Haurá, where the caravan camps. It is a cheery + charming site for rich citizens, with its plain of rich vegetation + everywhere, say the natives, undermined by water; its open sea-view to the + west; its mound of clean yellow sand behind, extending to the rocky + horizon; and its pure fresh breezes blowing from the Nejd with an + indescribable sense of lightness and health and enjoyment. In fact, it has + all the accessories of an "eligible position." At the third or southern + palm patch, we found the only public work which remains visible in the + great Nabathaean port. It was formerly a Káríz, the underground-aqueduct + so common in Persia; and it conducted towards the sea the drainage of the + Jebel Turham, a round knob shown in the Chart, which bears south-east + (121° mag.) from the conduit-head. The line has long ago been broken down + by the Arabs; and the open waters still supply the Hajj-caravan. The ‘Ayn + ("fountain") may be seen issuing from a dark cavern of white coralline: + the water then hides itself under several filled-up pits, which represent + the old air-holes; and, after flowing below sundry natural arches, the + remains of the conduit-ceiling, it emerges in a deep fissure of saltish + stone. From this part of its banks we picked up fair specimens of + saltpetre. The lower course abounds in water-beetles, and is choked with + three kinds of aquatic weeds. After flowing a few yards it ends in a + shallow pool, surrounded by palms and paved with mud, which attracts + flights of snipes, sandpipers, and sandgrouse. + </p> + <p> + The turbulent "Dog's Sons"<a href="#linknote-50" name="linknoteref-50" + id="linknoteref-50"><small>50</small></a> were mostly in the upper lands; + but a few wretched fellows, with swords, old spears, and ridiculous + matchlocks, assembled and managed to get up a squabble about the right of + leading strangers into "our country" (Bilád-ná). The doughty Rájih ibn + ‘Ayid, who, mounted upon a mean dromedary, affected to be chief guide, + seemed to treat their pretensions as a serious matter, when we laughed + them to scorn. He and all the other experts gave us wholly discouraging + details concerning a ruin represented to lie, some hours off, in the + nearest of the southern Harrah. According to them, the Kasr el-Bint + ("Maiden's Palace") was in the same condition as El-Haurá; showing only a + single pillar, perhaps the "columns" to which Wellsted alludes. We could + learn nothing concerning the young person whose vague name it bears; + except that she preferred settling on the mainland, whereas her brother + built a corresponding castle upon the islet Jebel Hassáni.<a + href="#linknote-51" name="linknoteref-51" id="linknoteref-51"><small>51</small></a> + He is locally called Warakat ibn Naufal, a venerated name in the Fatrah, + or "interval," between Jesus and Mohammed; he was the uncle of Khadijah + the widow, and he is popularly supposed to have been a Christian. Here, as + at other places, I inquired, at the suggestion of a friend, but of course + in vain, about the human skeleton which Ibn Mujáwar, some six centuries + ago, found embedded in a rock near the sea-shore. + </p> + <p> + Such is the present condition of the once famous emporium Leukè Kóme. We + returned along the shore to embark; and, shortly after noon, the old + corvette of Crimean date again swung round on her heel, and resumed her + wanderings, this time northwards. The run of eighteen hours and fifteen + minutes was semicircular, but the sea had subsided to a dead calm. The + return to El-Wijh felt like being restored to civilization; we actually + had a salad of radish leaves—delicious! + </p> + <p> + Our travel will now lie through the Baliyy country, and a few words + concerning this ancient and noble tribe may here be given. Although they + apparently retain no traditions of their origin, they are known to + genealogists as a branch of the Beni Kudá', who, some fifteen centuries + ago, emigrated from Southern Arabia, and eventually exterminated the + Thamudites. I have noted their northern and southern frontiers: to the + north-east they are bounded by the vicious Ma'ázah and the + Ruwalá-‘Anezahs, and to the south-east by the Alaydán-‘Anezahs, under + Shaykh Mutlak. Like their northern nomadic neighbours, they have passed + over to Egypt, and even the guide-books speak of the "Billi" in the valley + of the Nile. + </p> + <p> + The Baliyy modestly rate their numbers at four thousand muskets, by which + understand four hundred. Yet they divide themselves into a multitude of + clans; our companion, the Wakíl Mohammed Shahádah, can enumerate them by + the score; and I wrote down the twenty-three principal, which are common + both to South Midian and to Egypt. The chief Shaykh, Mohammed ‘Afnán ibn + Ammár, can reckon backwards seven generations, beginning from a certain + Shaykh Sultán. About ten years ago he allowed the tribe to indulge in such + dangerous amusements as "cutting the road" and plundering merchants. It is + even asserted, privily, that they captured the fort of El-Wijh, by bribing + the Turkish Topji ("head gunner"), to fire high—like the half-caste + artilleryman who commanded the Talpúr cannoneers at Sir Charles Napier's + Battle of "Meeanee." A regiment of eight hundred bayonets was sent from + Egypt, and the Shaykh was secured by a Hílah, or "stratagem;" that is, he + was promised safe conduct: he trusted himself like a fool, he was seized, + clapped in irons, and sent to jail in the Citadel of Cairo. Here he + remained some seven months in carcere duro, daily expecting death, when + Fate suddenly turned in his favour; he was sent for by the authorities, + pardoned for the past, cautioned for the future, and restored to his home + with a Murátibah ("regular pension") of eight hundred piastres per mensem, + besides rations and raiment. The remedy was, like cutting off the nose of + a wicked Hindú wife, sharp but effective. Shaykh ‘Afnan and his tribe are + now models of courtesy to strangers; and the traveller must devoutly wish + that every Shaykh in Arabia could be subjected to the same discipline. + </p> + <p> + The Baliyy are a good study of an Arab tribe in the rough. The Huwaytát, + for example, know their way to Suez and to Cairo; they have seen + civilization; they have learned, after a fashion, the outlandish ways of + the Frank, the Fellah, and the Turk-fellow. The Baliyy have to be taught + all these rudiments. Cunning, tricky, and "dodgy," as is all the + Wild-Man-race, they lie like the "childish-foolish," deceiving nobody but + themselves. An instance: Hours and miles are of course unknown to them, + but they began with us by affecting an extreme ignorance of comparative + distances; they could not, or rather they would not, adopt as a standard + the two short hours' march between the Port and the inland Fort of + El-Wijh. When, however, the trick was pointed out to them, they at once + threw it aside as useless. No pretext was too flimsy to shorten a march or + to cause a halt—the northerners did the same, but with them we had a + controlling power in the shape of Shaykh Furayj. And like the citizens, + they hate our manner of travelling: they love to sit up and chat through + half the night; and to rise before dawn is an abomination to them. + </p> + <p> + At first their manners, gentle and pliable, contrast pleasantly with the + roughness of the half-breds, Huwaytát and Maknáwi, who have many of the + demerits of the Fellah, without acquiring the merits of the Bedawi. As + camel-men they were not difficult to deal with; nor did they wrangle about + their hire. Presently they turned out to be "poor devils," badly armed, + and not trained to the use of matchlocks. Their want of energy in beating + the bushes and providing forage for their camels, compared with that of + the northerners, struck us strongly. On the other hand, they seem to + preserve a flavour of ancient civilization, which it is not easy to + describe; and they certainly have inherited the instincts and tastes of + the old metal-workers: they are a race of born miners. That sharpest of + tests, the experience of travel, at last suggested to us that the Baliyy + is too old a breed; and that its blue blood wants a "racial baptism," a + large infusion of something newer and stronger. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Note on the "Harrahs" of Arabia. +</pre> + <p> + The learned Dr. J. G. Wetzstein, in the appendix to his "Reisebericht," + etc.,<a href="#linknote-52" name="linknoteref-52" id="linknoteref-52"><small>52</small></a> + records a conversation with A. von Humboldt and Carl Ritter (April, 1859), + respecting the specimens which he had brought from the classical + Trachonitis. Their appearance led the latter to question whether the + latest eruptions of the Harrat Rájil, as it is called from an adjoining + valley, may not have taken place within the historic period; and he + referred to Psalm xviii. as seeming to note the occurrence, during David's + reign, of such a phenomenon in or near Palestine. Humboldt deemed it + probable that the Koranic legend (chap. iv.) of the Abyssinian host under + Abraha destroyed by a shower of stones baked in hell-fire, referred, not + to small-pox as is generally supposed, but to an actual volcanic eruption + in Arabia. + </p> + <p> + "With what interest would that great man have learnt," writes Dr. + Wetzstein, "that, as I was turning over the leaves of Yákút's + ‘Geographical Lexicon,' only a few days ago, I found that the Arabians + knew of the existence of twenty-eight different volcanic regions between + Hauran and Bab el-Mandeb!" Later still, Dr. Otto Loth published an + elaborate paper "On the Volcanic Regions (Harras) of Arabia, according to + Yakut" (thirteenth century), in which these eruptive sites are nearly all + identified and described. + </p> + <p> + "Among the numerous volcanoes thus found to exist within the Arabian + Peninsula," remarks Dr. Beke,<a href="#linknote-53" name="linknoteref-53" + id="linknoteref-53"><small>53</small></a> "the only one recorded as having + been in activity within the historic period is the Harrat-el-Nar (‘Fire + Harra'), situate to the north-east of Medina, in the neighbourhood of + Khaibur (Khaybar), in about 26°. 30' north lat., and 40°. east long.; + which, being traditionally said to have been in an active state six + centuries before Mohammed, had actually an eruption in the time of the + Prophet's successor, Omar. To the north-west of this ‘Fire Harra' lies + that known as the ‘Harra of (the tribe of) Udhra' (Azra): again, to the + north of this is the ‘Harra of Tabuk,' so called from the station of that + name on the Hajj-road from Damascus to Mekka, the position of which is in + about 28 deg. 15' north lat. and 37 deg. east long.; and beyond this last, + further to the north, and consequently between it and the northernmost + Harra of the Râdjil, or Trachonitis, is the Harra Radjlâ. . . . Its + designation, which means ‘rough,' ‘pathless,' seems to indicate its + peculiarly rugged surface, and to lead to the inference that it is an + immense field of lava." He cites Irby and Mangles ("Travels in Egypt," pp. + 115, 116; reprinted by Murray, London, 1868), describing their route + between Kerak and Petra, on the east side of the Ghor or Wady ‘Arabah. "We + noticed three dark volcanic summits, very distinguishable from the land. + The lava that had streamed from them forms a sort of island in the plain." + </p> + <p> + Hence my late friend concluded that his "true Mount Sinai" was the focus + and origin of this volcanic region; and that the latter was the "great and + terrible wilderness" (Deut. i. 19) through which the children of Israel + were led on their way to mysterious Kadesh-Barnea. Thus, too, he explained + the "pillar of the cloud by day," and the "pillow of fire by night" (Exod. + xiii. 21). + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVI. — Our Last March—the Inland Fort—Ruins of + the Gold-mines at Umm El-Karáyát and Umm El-Haráb. + </h2> + <p> + Again there were preliminaries to be settled before we could leave El-Wijh + for the interior. Shaykh Mohammed ‘Afnán had been marrying his son; and + the tale of camels came in slowly enough. On the day after our return from + El-Haurá the venerable old man paid us a visit aboard Sinnár. He declares + that he was a boy when the Wahhábi occupied Meccah and El-Medínah—that + is, in 1803-4. Yet he has wives and young children. His principal want is + a pair of new eyes; and the train of thought is, "I can't see when older + men than myself can." The same idea makes the African ever attribute his + sickness and death to sorcery: "Why should I lose life when all around me + are alive?"—and this is the idea that lies at the bottom of all + witch-persecution. Two pair of spectacles were duly despatched to him + after our return to Cairo; and M. Lacaze there exhibited a capital sketch + of the picturesque, white-bearded face, with the straight features and the + nutcracker chin, deep buried in the folds of a huge red shawl. + </p> + <p> + The son, Sulaymán, has been espoused to a cousin older, they say, than + himself; and he seems in no hurry to conclude the marriage. He would + willingly accompany us to Egypt, but he is the father's favourite, and the + old man can do nothing without him. A youth of about eighteen, and even + more handsome than his sire, he has the pretty look, the sloping + shoulders, the soft snaky movements, and the quiet, subdued voice of a + nice girl. During the first marches he dressed in the finery of the + Bedawin—the brilliant head-kerchief, the parti-coloured sandals, and + the loose cloak of expensive broadcloth. The "toggery" looked out of place + as the toilettes of the Syrian ladies who called upon us in laces and blue + satins amid the ruins of Ba'lbek. Although all the hired camels belonged, + as is customary, to the tribe, not to the Shaykh, the latter was + accompanied by the usual "Hieland tail;" by his two nephews, Hammád and + Náji, the latter our head-guide, addicted to reading, writing, and lying; + by his favourite and factotum, Abdullah, an African mulatto, Muwallid or + "house-born;" and by his Wakíl ("agent"), a big black slave, Abdullah + Mohammed, ready of tongue and readier of fist. Lastly, I must mention one + ‘Audah ‘Adayni, a Huwayti bred in the Baliyy country, a traveller to + Cairo, passing intelligent and surpassing unscrupulous. Confidential for a + consideration, he told all the secrets of his employers, and it is my firm + conviction that he was liberally paid for so doing by both parties of + wiseacres. + </p> + <p> + The immediate objective of this, our last march, was the Badá plain, of + which we first heard at Shaghab. I purposed subsequently to collect + specimens of a traditional coal-mine, to which his Highness the Viceroy + had attached the highest importance. Then we would march upon the Móchoura + of the ancients, the mediaeval El-Marwah or Zú Marwah, the modern + Marwát-cum-Abá'l-Marú. Finally, we would return to El-Wijh, viâ the Wady + Hamz, inspecting both it and the ruins first sighted by MM. Marie and + Philipin. + </p> + <p> + On Friday, March 29th, I gave a breakfast, in the wooden barracks, to the + officers of the Sinnár and the officials of the port. After which, some + took their opium and went to sleep; while others, it being church-day, + went to Mosque. We ran out of El-Wijh at 1.45 p.m., our convoy consisting + of fifty-eight camels, forty-four of which were loaded; seven were + dromedaries, and an equal number carried water. All had assured us that + the rains of the two past years had been wanting: last winter they were + scanty; this cold season they were nil. In truth, the land was suffering + terribly from drought. Our afternoon was hot and unpleasant: about later + March the Hawá el'-Uwwah, a violent sand-raising norther, sets in and + lasts through a fortnight. It is succeeded, in early April, by the calms + of El-Ni'ám ("the Blessings"), which, divided into the Greater and the + Less, last forty days. After that the summer—Jehannum! + </p> + <p> + From the raised and metalled bank, upon which the Burj stands, we + descended to the broad mouth of the Wijh valley, draining the low rolling + blue-brown line of porphyritic hillocks on the east. To our right lay the + sparkling, glittering white plain and pool, El-Melláhah, "the salina." + After an hour and a quarter of sandy and dusty ride, we passed through a + "gate" formed by the Hamírat-Wijh, the red range which, backing the gape + of the valley and apparently close behind the town, strikes the eye from + the offing. Here the gypsum, ruddy and mauve, white and black, was + underlaid by granite in rounded masses; and the Secondary formation is + succeeded by the usual red and green traps. Though this part of our route + lies in El-Tihámah, which, in fact, we shall not leave, we are again + threading the Wady Sadr of the northern Shafah-range. A pleasant surprise + was a fine vein of sugary quartz trending north-south: at that period we + little suspected the sub-range to the south—perhaps also the + northern—of being, in places, one mighty mass of "white stone." + </p> + <p> + After covering six miles in an hour and three-quarters, exaggerated by the + guides to three, we suddenly sighted the inland fort. Its approach is that + of a large encamping-ground, and such, indeed, it is; the Egyptian + pilgrim-caravan here halts on the fourth day from El-Muwaylah. The broken, + untidy environs, strewed with bones and rubbish, show low mounds that mean + ovens; stone rings, where tents are pitched; and the usual graves, amongst + which a reverend man, Shaykh Sálih, rests in a manner of round tower. The + site is, in one point at least, admirably well-chosen, a kind of carrefour + where four valleys and as many roads meet; and thus it commands the mouths + of all the gorges leading inland. + </p> + <p> + Riding up to the fort, we were welcomed by its commandant, Lieutenant + Násir Ahmed, a peculiarly good specimen of his arm, the infantry. His + garrison consists of thirteen regulars, whose clean uniforms show + discipline, and whose hale and hearty complexions testify to the + excellence of the water and the air. The men are paid annually by the + treasurer of the Hajj-caravan. They are supposed to be relieved after + seven years; but they have wives and families; and, like the British + soldier in India half a century ago, they are content to pass their + working lives in local service. The commandant showed us over his castle, + which was in excellent order; and brewed coffee, which we drank in the + cool porch of the single gate. He then led us about the neighbourhood, and + ended with inviting the Sáyyid, Furayj, and the Wakíl Mohammed Shahádah to + a copious feast. + </p> + <p> + The fort is the usual square, straight-curtained work of solid masonry, + with a circular bastion at each angle, and a huge arched main-entrance in + the western façade. It is, in fact, one of the buildings that belong to + the solid, sturdy age of Sultán Selim, and of the Sinnán Pasha so well + known about Damascus. An inscription, with an illegible date, bears the + name of Ahmed ibn Taylún, the founder of the Taylunide dynasty, in A.D. + 868—884: this is another proof that the Mamlúk Soldans were lords of + the soil; and that, even in the ninth century, South Midian was a + province, or a dependency, of Egypt. Moreover, we picked up, to the + north-east of the work, old and well-treated scoriæ, suggesting a more + ancient settlement. Perhaps it was the locale preferred by the proprietors + of the slaves who worked the inner mines, hidden from view and from the + sea-breeze by the hills. + </p> + <p> + The castle being perfectly commanded by the heights behind, the circular + towers to the east have crests raised in that direction, giving them a + spoon-shape, and a peculiar aptitude for arresting every cannon-ball + coming from the west. The Bedawin, however, have no great guns; and + apparently this shelter has been added since Wellsted's day.<a + href="#linknote-54" name="linknoteref-54" id="linknoteref-54"><small>54</small></a> + To the curtains are attached the usual hovels, mat, palm-leaf, and walls + of dry stone or mud, which here, as at Palmyra, inevitably suggest + wasp-nests. The northern side is subtended by three large cisterns, all + strengthened at the inner angles by the stepped buttresses first noticed + when we were exploring Magháir Shu'ayb. + </p> + <p> + Up the valley and behind the fort, or to the north-east, lie the + palm-plantations, the small kitchen-gardens, and the far-famed wells + which, dug by Sultán Selim and repaired by Ibrahim Pasha in A.D. 1524 (?), + supply the Hajj-caravan. The sandy bed, disposed east-west, is streaked, + dotted, and barred with walls and outcrops of the hardest greenstone + porphyry; and those which run north-south must arrest, like dykes, the + flow of water underground. One of these reefs is laboriously scraped with + Bedawi Wusúm, and with Moslem inscriptions comparatively modern. The + material is heavy, but shows no quartz; whereas the smaller valleys which + debouch upon the northern or right bank of the main line, display a + curious conformation of the "white stone," contorted like oyster shells, + and embedded in the trap. + </p> + <p> + Of the six wells, revetted with masonry and resembling in all points those + of Ziba, four, including El-Tawílah, the deepest, supply brackish water; + and the same is the case with a fifth inside the fort, close to the chapel + of his Holiness, Shaykh Abubakr. The water, however, appeared potable; and + perhaps cleaning out and deepening might increase the quantity. The sweet + element drunk by the richards of El-Wijh comes from the Bir + el-Za'faráníyyah ("of Saffron"), and from its north-eastern neighbour, + El-‘Ajwah ("the Date-paste"). The latter measures four or five fathoms; + and the water appears under a boulder in situ that projects from the + southern side. The reader will now agree with me that El-Wijh is not too + drouthy for a quarantine-ground. + </p> + <p> + The plots of green meat lie about the water, sheltered from the burning + sun by a luxuriant growth of date-trees. The Egyptian is the best man in + the world for dabbling in mud; and here, by scraping away the + surface-sand, he has come upon a clayey soil sufficiently fertile to + satisfy his wants. The growth is confined to tobacco, potatoes, and + cabbages, purslain (Portulaca, pourpier), radishes, the edible Hibiscus, + and tomatoes, which are small and green. Lettuces do not thrive; cucumbers + and water-melons have been tried here and up country; and—man wants + little in Midian. + </p> + <p> + We set out early on the next day (5.30 a.m., March 30th) in disorderly + style. The night had been cool and comfortable, dry and dewless; but the + Shaykhs were torpid after the feast, and the escort and quarrymen had been + demoralized by a week of sweet "do-nothing." Striking up the Wady el-Wijh, + which now becomes narrow and gorge-like, with old and new wells and + water-pits dotting the sole, we were stopped, after half an hour's walk, + by a "written rock" on the right side of the bed. None of the guides + seemed to know or, at any rate, to care for it; although I afterwards + learnt that Admiral M'Killop (Pasha), during his last visit to El-Wijh, + obtained a squeeze of the inscriptions. Wellsted (II. x.) erroneously + calls this valley "Wádí el-Moyah," the name of a feature further south—thus + leading me to expect the find elsewhere. Moreover, he has copied the + scrawls with a carelessness so prodigious, that we failed at first to + recognize the original. He has hit upon the notable expedient of massing + together in a single dwarf wood-cut (Vol. II. p. 189) what covers many + square feet of stone; and I was fool enough to republish his copy.<a + href="#linknote-55" name="linknoteref-55" id="linknoteref-55"><small>55</small></a> + </p> + <p> + A tall, fissured rock, of the hardest porphyritic greenstone, high raised + from the valley-sole, facing north-west, and reducible to two main blocks, + is scattered over with these "inscriptions," that spread in all + directions. Most of them are Arab Wusum, others are rude drawings of men + and beasts, amongst which are conspicuous the artless camel and the + serpent; and there is a duello between two funny warriors armed with sword + and shield. These efforts of art resemble, not a little, the "Totem" + attempts of the "Red Indians" in North and South America. There are, + however, two scrapings evidently alphabetic, and probably Nabathæan, which + are offered to the specialists in epigraphy: six appear in Wellsted's + illustration, especially that with a long line above it, near the left and + lower corner of the cut. M. Lacaze and I copied the most striking features + in our carnets; he taking the right or southern side and leaving the other + block to me. But the results did not satisfy us; and on April 10th I sent + him with M. Philipin to make photographs. The latter, again, are hardly as + satisfactory as they might be, because the inscriptions have not been + considered the central points of interest. We shall pass during our + present journey many of these Oriental "John Joneses" and "Bill Browns:" + they will suggest the similar features of Sinaitic Wady Mukattib, which + begot those monstrous growths, "The One Primaeval Language" and "The Voice + of Israel from Mount Sinai."<a href="#linknote-56" name="linknoteref-56" + id="linknoteref-56"><small>56</small></a> From the "written rock" the + caravan travelled westward up an easy watercourse, "El-Khaur," + distinguished as El-Shimálí ("the Northern"): it winds round by the north, + and we shall descend it to-morrow. The mule-riders left the Wady el-Wijh, + which extends some two hours eastward, and struck to the east-south-east. + The bridle-path, running up the left bank of an ugly rocky torrent, the + Wady Zurayb, presently reaches a plateau undulating in low rises. Burnt + with heat, almost bare of trees, and utterly waterless, it is the model of + a mining country: elevate it from five hundred to nine thousand feet, and + it would be the living (or dead) likeness of a Peruvian cerro. The staple + material, porphyritic trap, shows scatters of quartz and huge veins, + mostly trending north-south: large trenches made, according to the guides, + by the ancients, and small cairns or stone piles, modern work, were also + pointed out to us. + </p> + <p> + Crossing the heads of sundry watercourses, we fell into the Wady Umm + el-Karáyat:<a href="#linknote-57" name="linknoteref-57" id="linknoteref-57"><small>57</small></a> + it begins, as is here the rule, with a gravelly bed, nice riding enough; + it then breaks into ugly rocky drops and slides, especially at the hill + shoulders, where thorn-trees and other obstacles often suggest that it is + better to dismount; and, finally, when nearing the mouth, it becomes a + matured copy of its upper self on an enlarged scale. Presently we turned + to the left over a short divide, and stared with astonishment at the airy + white heap, some two hundred feet high, which, capped and strewed with + snowy boulders, seemed to float above our heads. The Wady-bed at our feet, + lined along the left bank with immense blocks of similar quartz, showed + the bases of black walls—ruins. "Behold Umm el-Karáyát!" exclaimed + Nájí, the guide, pointing with a wave of the arm, his usual theatrical + gesture, to the scene before us. We could hardly believe our eyes: he had + just assured us that the march from the fort is four hours, and we had + ridden it in two hours and fifteen minutes (= six miles and a quarter). + </p> + <p> + Dismounting at once, and ordering the camp to be pitched near the ruins, + we climbed up the south-eastern face of the quartz-hill, whose appearance + was a novelty to us. Instead of being a regular, round-headed cone, like + the Jebel el-Abyaz for instance, the summit was distinctly crateriform. + The greater part of the day was spent in examining it, and the following + are the results. This Jebel el-Marú showed, for the first time during the + whole journey, signs of systematic and civilized work. In many parts the + hill has become a mere shell. We found on the near side a line of + air-holes, cut in the quartz rock, disposed north-south of one another; + and preserving a rim, sunk like that of a sarcophagus, to receive a cover. + Possibly it was a precaution against the plunder which ruined Brazilian + Gongo Soco. The Arabs have no fear of these places, as in Wellsted's day, + and Abdullah, the mulatto, readily descended into one about twelve feet + below the surface. Messrs. Clarke and Marie explored the deepest by means + of ropes, and declared that it measured sixty feet. They had to be ready + with their bayonets, as sign of hyenas was common; and the beast, which + slinks away in the open is apt, when brought to bay in caverns, to rush + past the intruder, carrying off a jawful of calf or thigh. + </p> + <p> + This pit had two main galleries, both choked with rubbish, leading to the + east and west; and the explorers could see light glimmering through the + cracks and crevices of the roof—these doubtless gave passage to the + wild carnivore. In other parts the surface, especially where the earth is + red, was pitted with shallow basins; and a large depression showed the + sinking of the hollowed crust. Negro quartz was evidently abundant; but we + came to the conclusion that the rock mostly worked was, like that of + Shuwák, a rosy, mauve-coloured schist, with a deep-red fracture, and + brilliant colours before they are tarnished by atmospheric oxygen. It + abounds in mica, which, silvery as fish-scales, overspreads it in patches; + and the precious metal had probably been sought in the veinlets between + the schist and its quartz-walling. In two pieces, specks, or rather + paillettes, of gold were found lightly and loosely adhering to the "Marú + ;" so lightly, indeed, that they fell off when carelessly pocketed Veins + of schist still remained, but in the galleries they had been followed out + to the uttermost fibril. + </p> + <p> + Reaching the crateriform summit, we found that the head of the cone had + either "caved in," or had been carried off bodily to be worked. Here + traces of fire, seen on the rock, suggested that it had been split by cold + affusion. A view from the summit of this burrowed mound gave us at once + the measure of the past work and a most encouraging prospect for the + future. We determined that the Marwah or "quartz-hill" of Umm el-Karáyát + was the focus and centre of the southern mining region, even as the + northern culminates in the Jebel el-Abyaz. Further experience rejected the + theory, and showed us half a dozen foci and centres in this true + quartz-region. The main hill projects a small southern spur, also bearing + traces of the miner. The block of green trap to the south-west has a + capping and a vein-network of quartz: here also the surface is + artificially pitted. Moreover, there are detached white-yellow pitons to + the north-east, the east, and the south; whilst a promising hillock, + bearing nearly due north, adjoins the great outcrop. All have rounded + conical summits and smooth sides, proving that they are yet virgin; and + here, perhaps, I should prefer to begin work. + </p> + <p> + At our feet, and in north lat. 26° 13', lies the settlement, in a short + gravelly reach disposed north-west to south-east; and the bed is enclosed + by a rim of trap and quartz hills. The ruins lie upon a fork where two + gorges, running to the east and the north-east, both fall into the broad + Wady el-Khaur, and the latter feeds the great Wady el-Miyáh, the "Fiumara + of the Waters," of which more presently. The remains on the upper + (eastern) branch-valley show where the rock was pulverized by the number + of grinding implements, large and small, coarse and fine, all, save the + most solid, broken to pieces by the mischievous Bedawi. Some are of the + normal basalt, which may also have served for crushing grain; others are + cut out of grey and ruddy granites: a few are the common Mahrákah or + "rub-stones," and the many are handmills, of which we shall see admirable + specimens further on. One was an upper stone, with holes for the handle + and for feeding the mill: these articles are rare. I also secured the + split half of a ball, or rather an oblate spheroid, of serpentine with + depressions, probably where held by finger and thumb; the same form is + still used for grinding in the Istrian island of Veglia. This is one of + the few rude stone implements that rewarded our careful search. + </p> + <p> + The north-eastern, which is the main Wady, has a sole uneven with low + swells and falls. It was dry as summer dust: I had expected much in the + way of botanical collection, but the plants were not in flower, and the + trees, stripped of their leaves, looked "black as negroes out of holiday + suits." Here lie the principal ruins, forming a rude parallelogram from + north-east to south-west. The ground plan shows the usual formless heaps + of stones and pebbles, with the bases of squares and oblongs, regular and + irregular, large and small. There were no signs of wells or aqueducts; and + the few furnaces were betrayed only by ashen heaps, thin scatters of + scoriæ, and bits of flux—dark carbonate of lime. Here and there + mounds of the rosy micaceous schist, still unworked, looked as if it had + been washed out by the showers of ages. The general appearance is that of + an ergastulum like Umm Ámil: here perhaps the ore was crushed and smelted, + when not rich enough to be sent down the Wady for water-working at the + place where the inland fort now is. + </p> + <p> + The quarrymen, placed at the most likely spots, were ordered to spall rock + for specimens: with their usual perversity, they picked up, when + unwatched, broken bits of useless stuff; they spent the whole day dawdling + over three camel-loads, and they protested against being obliged to carry + the sacks to their tents. Meanwhile Nájí, who had told marvellous tales + concerning a well in the neighbouring hills, which showed the foundations + of houses in its bowels, was directed to guide Lieutenant Amir. He + objected that the enormous distance would be trying to the stoutest mule, + and yet he did not blush when it was reached after a mile's ride to the + southwest (240° mag.). It proved to be a long-mouthed pit, sunk in the + trap hill-slope some four fathoms deep, but much filled up; and, so far + from being built in, it had not even the usual wooden platform. Eastward + of it, and at the head of the Wady Shuwaytanah, "the Devilling," lay a + square ruin like a small Mashghal of white quartz: here also were three + stones scribbled with pious ejaculations, such as Yá Allah! and Bismillah, + in a modern Kufic character. + </p> + <p> + Umm el-Karáyát, "the Mother of the Villages," derives her title, according + to the Baliyy, from the numerous offspring of minor settlements scattered + around her. We shall pass several on the next day's march, and I am + justified in setting down the number at a dozen. The Wady el-Kibli, the + southern valley, was visited by Lieutenants Amir and Yusuf on April 8th, + when we were encamped below it at Abá'l-Marú<a href="#linknote-58" + name="linknoteref-58" id="linknoteref-58"><small>58</small></a>. After + riding about six miles to the north-north-west, down the Wady el-Mismáh + and up the Wady el-‘Argah, they reached, on the left bank of the latter, + the ruins known as Marú el-Khaur. The remains of the daughter are those of + the "mother." There are two large heaps of quartz to the north and to the + south-east of the irregular triangle, whose blunted apex faces northwards: + the south-eastern hill shows an irregular Fahr ("pit") in the reef of + white stone, leading to a number of little tunnels. + </p> + <p> + I lost all patience with Wellsted,<a href="#linknote-59" + name="linknoteref-59" id="linknoteref-59"><small>59</small></a> whose + blunders concerning the Umm el-Karáyát are really surprising, even for a + sailor on camel-back. He reaches the ruins after ten miles from the fort, + when they lie between twelve and thirteen from El-Wijh. He calls the + porphyritic trap "dark granite." He makes the grand quartz formation + "limestone, of which the materials used for constructing the town + (coralline!) appear to have been chiefly derived." He descends the "caves" + with ropes and lights; yet he does not perceive that they are mining + shafts and tunnels, puits d'air, adits for the workmen, and pits by which + the ore was "brought to grass." And the Hydrographic Chart is as bad. It + locates the inland fort six miles and three-quarters from the anchorage, + but the mine is thrust eastwards ten miles and a quarter from the fort; + the latter distance being, as has been seen, little more than the former. + Moreover, the ruins are placed to the north, when they lie nearly on the + same parallel of latitude as El-Wijh. Ahmed Kaptán fixed them, by solar + observations, in north lat. 26° 13', so that we made only one mile of + southing. It ignores the porphyritic sub-range in which the "Mother of the + Villages" lies: and it brings close to the east of it the tall peaks of + the Tihámat-Balawíyyah' which, from this point, rise like azure shadows on + the horizon. Finally, it corrupts Umm el-Karáyát to Feyrabat. "Impossible, + but true!" + </p> + <p> + The night at the ruins was dry and cool, even cold; disturbed only by the + coughing of the men, the moaning of the camels, and the bleating of the + sheep. We would willingly have spent here another day, but water and + forage were absolutely wanting; and the guides assured us that even + greater marvels, in the shape of ruins and quartz-reefs, lay ahead. We set + out shortly after five a.m. (March 31st): the morning was pearly and rosy; + but puffs of a warmer wind announced the Dufún (local Khamsin), which + promised us three days of ugly working weather. Leaving Umm el-Karáyát by + the upper or eastern valley-fork, we soon fell into and descended its + absorbent, the broad (northern) Wady el-Khaur. Upon the right bank of the + latter rose the lesser "Mountain of Quartz," a cone white as snow, looking + shadowy and ghostly in the petit jour, the dim light of morning. For the + next two hours (= seven miles) we saw on both sides nothing but veins and + outcrops of "Marú," worked as well as unworked. All was bare and barren as + the gypsum: the hardy ‘Aushaz (Lycium), allied to the tea-tree, is the + only growth that takes root in humus-filled hollows of the stone. + </p> + <p> + Presently the quartz made way for long lines and broad patches of a + yellow-white, heat-altered clay, often revetted with iron, and passably + aping the nobler rock: from one reef I picked up what appeared to be + trachyte, white like that of Shaghab. The hill-casing of the valley forms + no regular line; the heaps of black, red, and rusty trap are here detached + and pyramidal, there cliffing as if in presence of the sea. The vegetation + improved as we advanced; the trees were no longer black and heat-blasted; + and we recognized once more the dandelion, the thistle, the senna, the + Aristida grass, and other familiar growths. Tents, shepherds, and large + flocks of goats and kids showed that water was not distant; and, here in + Baliyy-land, even the few young women seemed to have no fear of the white + face. + </p> + <p> + After a slow, dull ride in the burning and sickly wind, we crossed the + head of our former route, Wady Zurayb the Ugly, and presently entered the + Wady el-Kubbah ("of the Cupola,"), where our immediate destination rose + before us. It is a grisly black saddleback, banded with two perpendicular + stripes of dark stone that shines like specular iron; and upon its tall + northern end, the pommel, stands a small ruin, the oft spoken of "Dome." + Sketches of paths wind up the western flank; but upon this line, we were + assured, no ruins are seen save a few pits. So we rounded the block by the + north, following the broad Wady to the Máyat el-Kubbah, water-pits in the + sand whose produce had not been libelled when described as salt, scanty, + and stinking. The track then turned up a short, broad branch-Wady, running + from south to north, and falling into the left bank of the "Dome Valley:" + a few yards brought us to a halt at the ruins of El-Kubbah. We had pushed + on sharply during the last half of the way, and our morning's ride had + lasted four hours (= thirteen miles). + </p> + <p> + The remains lie in the uneven quartzose basin at the head of the little + lateral watercourse: they are built with good cement, and they evidently + belong to the race that worked the "Mother of the Villages;" but there is + nothing to distinguish them except the ruins of a large Sákiyah + ("draw-well"), with its basin of weathered alabaster. We were perplexed by + the shallow conical pits in the porphyritic trap, to the east and west of + the "Dome Hill;" the ground is too porous for rain cisterns, and the depth + is not sufficient for quarrying. The furnaces showed the normal slag; but + the only "metals" lying around them were poor iron-clay, and a shining + black porphyry, onyxed with the whitest quartz. There were, however, + extensive scatters of Negro, which had evidently been brought there; and + presently we found large heaps of rosy-coloured, washed-out schist.<a + href="#linknote-60" name="linknoteref-60" id="linknoteref-60"><small>60</small></a> + These explained the raison d'être of this dreary and dismal hole. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile the juniors ascended the rocky "Kubbah" hill, which proved to be + a small matter of 120 feet (aner. 29.34) above the valley-sole (aner. + 29.46). The "Dome" was nothing but a truncated circle of wall, porphyry + and cement, just large enough to hold a man; the cupola-roof, if there + ever had been one, was clean gone; and adjoining it yawned a rock-cut pit + some fifteen feet deep. I came to the conclusion that here might have been + a look-out where, possibly, the "bale-fire" was also lit. The + "ascensionists" brought back a very healthy thirst. + </p> + <p> + We rested till noon in the filmy shade of the thorn-trees. The caravan was + at once sent forward to reach the only good water, lying, said the guides, + many a mile beyond. We had made up our minds for a good long march; and I + was not a little vexed when, after half an hour, we were led out of the + Wady el-Kubbah, whose head, our proper line, lies to the north, into its + eastern influent, the Wady el-Dasnah. Here, after an afternoon "spell" of + forty-five minutes (= two miles and a half), and a total of four hours and + forty-five minutes (= fifteen miles and a half), a day nearly half wasted, + we found the tents pitched. The heat had strewed the Wady with soldiers + and quarrymen; and the large pit in the bed, supplying "water sweet as the + Nile,', showed a swarm of struggling blacks, which the Egyptian officers + compared with Aráfít or "demons;" we with large pismires. A sentinel was + placed to prevent waste and pollution at the Máyat el-Dasnah, whose + position is in north lat. 26° 23'. + </p> + <p> + April Fools' day was another that deserved to be marked with a white + stone. I aroused the camp at 3.30 a.m., in order that the camels might + load with abundance of water: we were to reach the springs of Umm Gezáz, + but a presentiment told me that we might want drink. At that hour the camp + was a melancholy sight: the Europeans surly because they had discussed a + bottle of cognac when they should have slept; the good Sayyid without his + coffee, and perhaps without his prayers; Wakíl Mohammed sorrowfully + attempting to gnaw tooth-breaking biscuit; and the Bedawin working and + walking like somnambules. However, at 5.10 a.m. we struck north, over a + low divide of trap hill, by a broad and evidently made road, and regained + the Wady el-Kubbah: here it is a pleasant spectacle rich in trees, and + vocal with the cooing of the turtle-dove. After an hour's sharp riding we + reached its head, a fair round plain some two miles across, and rimmed + with hills of red, green, and black plutonics, the latter much resembling + coal. It was a replica of the Sadr-basin below the Hismá, even to the + Khuraytah or "Pass" at the northern end. Here, however, the Col is a mere + bogus; that is, no raised plateau lies beyond it. + </p> + <p> + We crossed a shallow prism and a feeding-basin: an ugly little gorge then + led to the important Wady Sirr. We are now in the hydrographic area of the + Wady Nejd,<a href="#linknote-61" name="linknoteref-61" id="linknoteref-61"><small>61</small></a> + which, numbering influents by the dozen, falls into the Salbah (Thalbah) + of Sharm Dumaghah. The Sirr, though still far from its mouth, is at least + three miles broad; and the guides speak of it as the Asl el-Balawíyyah, or + "Old Home of the Baliyy." The view from its bed is varied and extensive. + Behind us lies the Tihámat-Balawíyyah, the equivalent of the Gháts of + North Midian, from the Zahd to the Shárr. The items are the little Jebel + ‘Antar, which, peeping over the Fiumara's high left bank, is continued + south by the lower Libn. The latter attaches to the higher Libn, whose + triad of peaks, the central and highest built of three distinct + castellations, flush and blush with a delicate pink-white cheek as it + receives the hot caresses of the sun. We are now haunted by the Libn, + which, like its big brother the Shárr, seems everywhere to accompany us. + </p> + <p> + Beyond the neutral ground, over which we are travelling, appear in front + the pale-blue heights bordering the Wady Nejd to the north-west, and + apparently connected with the Jebelayn el-Jayy in the far north (30° + mag.). To the north-east the view is closed by the lumpy Jebel el-Kurr + (the Qorh of Arabian geographers?); followed southwards by the peaked wall + of the Jebel el-Ward, and by El-Safhah with its "Pins." For the last + eighteen miles we had seen no quartz, which, however, might have veined + the underground-rock. The sole of the Sirr now appeared spread with snow, + streaked and patched with thin white paint; the stones were mostly + water-rolled, the discharge of valleys draining from afar. The ground was + unpleasantly pitted and holed; the camels were weak with semi-starvation + and the depressing south-wester; Lieutenant Amir put his dromedary to + speed, resulting in a nose-flattening fall; and the Sayyid nearly followed + suit. + </p> + <p> + This is our second day of Khamsin; yet on the northern slope of the great + Fiumara we meet the cool land-wind. Either it or the sea-breeze generally + sets in between seven and eight a.m., when the stony, sandy world has been + thoroughly sunned. The short divide beyond the far bank of the Sirr is + strewn with glittering mica-schist that takes the forms of tree-trunks and + rotten wood; and with dark purple-blue fragments of clay-slate looking as + if they had been worked. A counterslope of the same material, which makes + excellent path-metal placed us in the Wady Rubayyigh ("the Little Rábigh" + or "Green-grown Spring"), a short and proportionally very broad branch + draining to the Sirr. Here large outcrops of quartz mingled with the clay + slate. A few yards further it abutted upon a small gravelly basin with + ruins and a huge white reef of "Mará," which caused a precipitate + dismounting. We had marched only four hours (= thirteen miles); but the + loss of time has its compensations. Our Arabs, who consider this a fair + day's work, will now, in hopes of a halt, show us every strew of quartz + and every fragment of wall. They congratulated us upon reaching a part of + their country absolutely unvisited by Europeans. + </p> + <p> + The site of our discovery was the water-parting of the Wady Rubayyigh with + the Wady Rábigh, both feeders of the Sirr; this to the north, that to the + south. The ruins, known as Umm el-Haráb, "Mother of Desolation," are the + usual basement-lines: they lie in the utterly waterless basin, our + camping-ground, stretching west of Mará Rubayyigh, the big white reef. + This "Mother" bears nearly north of Umm el-Karáyát, in north lat. 26° 33' + 36" (Ahmed Kaptán): her altitude was made upwards of a thousand feet above + sea-level (aner. 28.92) + </p> + <p> + At Umm el-Haráb we saw for the first time an open mine, scientifically + worked by the men of old. They chose a pear-shaped quartz-reef; the upper + dome exposed, the converging slopes set and hidden in green trap to the + east and west, and the invisible stalk extending downwards, probably deep + into Earth's bowels. They began by sinking, as we see from certain rounded + apertures, a line of shafts striking north-north-east (45°—50° mag.) + to south-south-west across the summit, which may measure one hundred and + twenty yards. The intervening sections of the roof are now broken away; + and a great yawning crevasse in the hill-top gives this saddleback of bare + cream-coloured rock, spangled with white where recently fractured, the + semblance of a "comb" or cresting reef. + </p> + <p> + We descended into this chasm, whose slope varies from a maximum of 45° to + a minimum of 36° at the south. The depth apparently did not exceed thirty + feet, making allowance for the filling up of centuries; but in places the + hollow sound of the hammer suggested profounder pits and wells. I should + greatly doubt that such shallow sinking as this could have worked out any + beyond the upper part of the vein. Here it measures from six to eight feet + in diameter, diminishing to four and a half and even three below. The + sloping roof has been defended from collapse by large pillars of the rock, + left standing as in the old Egyptian quarries; it shows the clumsy but + efficient practice that preceded timbering. The material worked was + evidently the pink-coloured and silver-scaled micaceous schist; but there + was also a whitish quartz, rich in geodes and veinlets of dark-brown and + black dust. The only inhabitants of the cave, bats and lizards (Gongylus + ocellatus, L., etc.), did not prevent M. Lacaze making careful study of + the excavation; the necessity of brown shadows, however, robs the scene of + its charm, the delicate white which still shimmers under its transparent + veil of shade. Similar features exist at El-Muwaylah and El-Aujah, in the + wilderness of Kadesh: but those are latomiæ; these are gold mines.<a + href="#linknote-62" name="linknoteref-62" id="linknoteref-62"><small>62</small></a> + </p> + <p> + Another sign of superior labour is shown by the quartz-crushing + implements. Here they are of three kinds: coarse and rough basaltic lava + for the first and rudest work; red granite and syenitic granite for the + next stage; and, lastly, an admirable handmill of the compactest grey + granite, smooth as glass and hard as iron. Around the pin-hole are raised + and depressed concentric circles intended for ornament; and the "dishing" + towards the rim is regular as if turned by machinery. We have seen as yet + nothing like this work; nor shall we see anything superior to it. All are + nether millstones, so carefully smashed that one can hardly help + suspecting the kind of superstitious feeling which suggested iconoclasm. + The venerable Shaykh ‘Afnán showed a touching ignorance concerning the + labours of the ancients; and, when lectured about the Nabat (Nabathæans), + only exclaimed, "Allah, Allah!" + </p> + <p> + In the evening we ascended the porphyry hills to the north of the little + camping-basin; and we found the heights striped by two large vertical + bands of quartz. The eastern vein, like the Jebel el-Marú, has a + north-east to south-west strike (45° mag.); the western runs east-west + with a dip to south. From the summit we could see that the + quartz-mountain, as usual an exaggerated vein, is hemmed in on both sides + by outcrops and hills of trap, black, green, and yellow, which culminate + eastward in the Jebel el-Guráb (Juráb). We had a fine bird's-eye view of + the Wady Rábigh, and of our next day's march towards the Shafah Mountains: + the former was white with quartz as if hail-strewn. Far beyond its right + bank rose an Ash'hab, or "grey head," which seemed to promise quartzose + granite: it will prove an important feature. Before sleeping, I despatched + to El-Wijh two boxes of micaceous schist and two bags of quartz, loads for + a pair of camels. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVII. — The March Continued to El-Badá–Description of the + Plain Badais. + </h2> + <p> + After the exciting scenes of the last three days, this stage was dull + riding, and consequently, I fear, it will be dull reading as well as + writing. We set off afoot betimes (5.10 a.m.) in the still warm morning + that augured Khamsín: the third day was now telling heavily on man and + beast. A walk of ten minutes led down the rough line of the little + water-course draining the Marú Rubayyigh to the Wady Rábigh. At a + re-entering angle of the junction, a shallow pit was sunk; the sand became + moist and red, and presently it was underlaid by a rubble of porphyritic + trap. Nothing more! + </p> + <p> + We then crossed the Wady Rábigh, another of the short broad valleys which + distinguish this section of South Midian. The bed sides, especially the + right, are heaps and mounds of snowy quartz, with glittering crowns of + block and boulder: all prove to be veins in the grey granite, whose large + coarse elements are decomposed by weather. The dark and rusty walls of the + valley also discharge the white stone in shunts and shoots: here and there + they might be mistaken for Goz ("sand-banks") heaped up by the wind, + except that these are clad in thin vegetation, whereas the "Maru'" is + mostly mother-naked. We halted here for rest and to examine these + features: despite the Khamsín, the Great Gaster became querulous; hunger + was now the chief complaint, and even the bon ordinaire had lost much of + its attraction. A harmless snake was killed and bottled; its silver robe + was beautifully banded with a line, pink as the circles of the "cobra + coral," which ran along the whole length of the back. It proved to be a + new species; and Dr. Gunther named it Zamenis elegantissimus. + </p> + <p> + Beyond the Rábigh, we ascended a lateral valley, whence a low divide led + to the Wady el-Bahrah ("of the Basin"), another feeder of the Sirr. It was + also snow-white, and on the right of the path lay black heaps, Hawáwít, + "ruins" not worth the delay of a visit. Then began a short up-slope with a + longer counterslope, on which we met a party of Huwaytát, camel-men and + foot-men going to buy grain at El-Wigh. Another apparition was a spear-man + bestriding a bare-backed colt; after reconnoitering us for some time, he + yielded to the temptations of curiosity. It afterwards struck us that, + mounted on our mules, preceded and followed by the Shaykhs riding their + dromedaries, we must have looked mighty like a party of prisoners being + marched inland. The horseman was followed by a rough-coated, bear-eared + hound of the kind described by Wellsted<a href="#linknote-63" + name="linknoteref-63" id="linknoteref-63"><small>63</small></a> as + "resembling the English mastiff"—he did not know how common is the + beast further north. The Kalb gasúr (jasur) or "bold dog," also called + Kalb el-hámi, or "the hot" (tempered), is found even amongst the Bedawin + to the east of the Suez Canal; but there the half-bred is more common than + the whole-blood. It is trained to tend the flocks; it never barks, nor + bites its charges; and it is said to work as well as the shepherd-dog of + Europe. + </p> + <p> + The Wady Mulaybij shows fine specimens of mica dorí in the quartz-vein + streaking the slate: it deceived all the caravan, save those who tested it + with their daggers. The bed, after forming a basin, narrows to a sandy + gut, smooth and pleasant riding; and, after crossing several valley-heads, + the path debouches upon the Wady Abál-Gezaz. This "Father of Glass," + though a day and a half's march from the sea, is even broader than the + great Sirr to which it is tributary. Its line, which reminded us of the + Dámah, is well marked by unusually fine vegetation: and the basin bears + large clumps of fan-palm, scattered Daum-trees, the giant asclepiad + El-‘Ushr,<a href="#linknote-64" name="linknoteref-64" id="linknoteref-64"><small>64</small></a> + thickets of tamarisk and scatters of the wild castor-plant, whose use is + unknown to the Arabs. Water wells up abundantly from a dozen shallow pits, + old and new, in the sand of the southern or left bank. Here the flow is + apparently arrested by a tall buttress of coarse granite, red with + orthose, and sliced by a trap-dyke striking north-south. + </p> + <p> + Our day's work had been only four slow hours; but we were compelled to + await the caravan, which did not arrive till after noon. It had passed + round by the Wady Rábigh, into and up the "Father of Glass;" in fact, it + had described an easy semicircle; while we had ridden in a series of + zigzags, over rough and difficult short cuts. A delay was also necessary + for our mappers to connect this march with their itinerary of the central + region. Already the Wady Mulaybij had shown us the familiar peak and + dorsum of Jebel Raydán; and we had "chaffed" Furayj about his sudden + return home. From our camp in the Abá'l-Gezáz, the Zigláb block of Shaghab + bore nearly north (350° mag.); and the adjoining Jebel el-Aslah, also a + blue cone on the horizon, rose about two degrees further north. + </p> + <p> + After the big mess-tent had been duly blown down, and the usual discipline + had been administered for washing in the drinking-pool; we crossed to the + left of the Wady by way of an evening stroll, and at once came upon an + atelier of some importance. The guides seemed to ignore its existence, so + we christened it Mashghal Alá'l-Gezáz. On the slope of a trap-hill facing + the Wady el-Ghami's, the southern valley which we had last crossed, stood + a square of masonry scattered round with fragments of pottery, glass, and + basalt. Below it, on the "mesopotamian" plain, lay the foundations of + houses still showing their cemented floors. The lowlands and highlands + around the settlement looked white-patched with mounds, veins, and + scatters of quartz. The evening was stillness itself, broken only by the + cries of the Katás, which are now nesting, as they flocked to drink; and + the night was cool—a promise, and a false promise, that the Khamsín + had ended on its usual third day. + </p> + <p> + The next morning (April 3rd) showed us El-Bada', the whole march lying up + the Wady Abá'l-Gezáz, which changes its name with every water. The early + air was delightfully fresh and brisk, and the cattle stepped out as if + walking were a pleasure: yet the Arabs declared that neither camels nor + mules had found a full feed in the apparently luxuriant vegetation of the + Fiumara-bed. The tract began badly over loose sandy soil, so honeycombed + that neither man nor beast could tread safely: the Girdi (Jirdi), or + "field rat," is evidently nocturnal like the jerboa, during the whole + journey we never saw a specimen of either. A yellow wolf was descried + skulking among the bushes, and a fine large hare was shot; + porcupine-quills were common, and we picked up the mummy of a little + hedgehog. The birds were swift-winged hawks and owls, pigeons and + ring-doves; crows again became common, and the water-wagtail was tame as + the Brazilian thrush, João de Barros: it hopped about within a few feet of + us, quite ignoring the presence of Frenchmen armed with murderous guns. I + cannot discern the origin of the pseudo-Oriental legend which declares + that the "crow of the wilderness" (raven) taught Cain to bury his brother + by slaying a brother crow, and scraping a grave for it with beak and claw. + The murderous bird then perched upon a palm-tree, whose branches, before + erect, have ever drooped, and croaked the truth into Adam's ear: hence it + has ever been of evil augury to mankind. The hoopoe, which the French + absurdly call coq de montagne, also trotted by the path-side without + timidity; and the butcher-bird impudently reviewed the caravan from its + vantage-ground, a commanding tree. The large swift shot screaming + overhead; and the cries of the troops of Merops, with silver-lined wings, + resembled those of the sand-grouse. + </p> + <p> + After some five miles the "Father of Glass" changed his name to Abú Daumah + (of the "one Theban Palm"). Porphyritic trap lay on both sides of us. To + the right rose the Jebel ‘Ukbal, whose grey form (El-Ash'hab) we had seen + from the heights above Umm el-Haráb: the whole range of four heads, + forming the south-western rim of the Badá saucer, is known as El-‘Akábil. + Below these blocks the Wady-sides were cut into buttresses of yellow clay, + powdered white with Sabkh, or "impure salt." Charred circlets in the sand + showed where alkali had been burned: the ashes, packed in skins, are + shipped at El-Wijh for Syria, where they serve to make soap. The Bedawin + call it Aslah (Athlah); the Egyptians Ghassálah ("the washer"), because, + when rubbed in the hands, its succulent shoots clean the skin. Camels eat + it, whereas mules refuse it, unless half-starved. This plant apparently + did not extend all up the Wady. The water, where there is any, swings + under the left bank; an ample supply had been promised to us, with the + implied condition that we should camp at this Mahattat el-‘Urbán ("Halting + place of the Arabs"), after a marching day of two hours! Seeing that we + rode on, the Baliyy declared that they had searched for the two principal + pools, and that both were dry, or rather had been buried by the Bedawin. + But, with characteristic futility, they had allowed me to overhear their + conversation; and the word was passed to the soldiers, who at once filled + themselves and their water-skins. + </p> + <p> + Hitherto we had been marching south of east. Presently, where the pretty + green Wady el-Surám falls into the left bank, we turned a corner, and + sighted in front, or to the north, the great plain of Badá. The block, + El-‘Akábil, had projected a loop of some ten miles to be rounded, whereas + a short cut across it would not have exceeded three. And now the Wady Abá + Daumah abruptly changed formation. The red and green traps of the right + side made way for grey granite, known by its rounded bulging blocks on the + sides and summit, by its false stratification, by its veins of quartz that + strewed the sand, and by its quaint weathering—one rock exactly + resembled a sitting eagle; a second was a turtle, and a third showed a + sphinx in the rough. The Badá plain is backed by a curtain so tall that we + seemed, by a common optical delusion, to be descending when we were really + ascending rapidly. + </p> + <p> + Anxiety to begin our studies of the spot made the ride across the basin, + soled with rises comfortably metalled, and with falls of sand unpleasantly + loose and honeycombed, appear very long. The palm-clump, where men camp, + with its two date-trees towering over the rest, receded as it were. At + last, after a total of four hours and forty-five minutes (= sixteen + miles), we dismounted at the celebrated groves, just before the ugly + Khamsín arose and made the world look dull, as though all its colours had + been washed out. + </p> + <p> + The dates form a kind of square with a sharp triangle to the south, upon + the left bank of the thalweg, which overflows them during floods. The + enceinte is the normal Arab "snake-fence" of dry and barked branches, + which imperfectly defends the nurseries of young trees and the plots of + Khubbayzah ("edible mallows") from the adjoining camping-place of bald + yellow clay. The wells, inside and outside the enclosure, are nine; three + stone-revetted, and the rest mere pits in the inchoate modern sandstone. + The trees want thinning; the undergrowth is so dense as to be + impenetrable; but the heads are all carefully trimmed, the first time we + have seen such industry in Midian. The shade attracts vipers, chiefly the + Echis: and I was startled by hearing the gay warble of the Bulbul—a + nightingale in Arabia! + </p> + <p> + The next day was devoted to inspecting this far-famed site, with the + following results. We have already seen a Bada' and a Badí'a , whilst + there is a Badí'ah <a href="#linknote-65" name="linknoteref-65" + id="linknoteref-65"><small>65</small></a> further north. We are now at a + Badá which fulfils all the conditions required by the centre and + head-quarters of "Thamuditis." The site of the Bújat Badá, "the Wide Plain + of Badá," as it is distinguished by the Arabs, represents, topographically + speaking, a bulge in the Wady Nejd, before it becomes the Wady Abú Daumah, + between the Shafah Mountains to the east and the Tihámah range seawards. + The latitude is 26° 45' 30" = 0° 31' 30" north of El-Wijh [Footnote: Ahmed + Kaptán's observation of Polaris. The (Bades) of Ptolemy is in north lat. + 25° 30'.]. From its centre, a little south of our camping-place, the Jebel + Zigláb of Shaghab, distant, according to Yákút, one march, bears 32°, and + the Aslah (Athlah) cone 30° (both mag.): it lies therefore south of + Shuwák, with a little westing. The altitude is upwards of twelve hundred + feet above sea-level (aner. 28.72). The size of the oval is about nine + statute miles from north to south, where the main watercourse breaks; and + twelve miles from east to west, giving an area of some 108 square miles. + The general aspect of the basin suggests that of El-Haurá; the growth is + richer than the northern, but not equal to that of the southern country. + The ruins belong to the Magháir Shu'ayb category, and the guides compare + the Hawáwít with those of Madáin Sálih. + </p> + <p> + Such is the great station on the Nabathæan overland highway between Leukè' + Kóme and Petra; the commercial and industrial, the agricultural and + mineral centre, which the Greeks called the Romans, Badanatha (Pliny, vi. + 32); and the mediæval Arab geographers, Badá Ya'kúb, in the days when the + Hajj-caravan used to descend the Wadys Nejd and the "Father of Glass." Now + it is simply El-Badá: the name of the "Prophet" Jacob, supposed to have + visited it from Egypt or Syria, being clean forgotten. + </p> + <p> + The rolling plain is floored with grey granite, underlying sandstones not + unlike coral-rag, and still in course of formation. Through this crust + outcrop curious hillocks, or rather piles of hard, red, and iron-revetted + rock, with a white or a rusty fracture—these are the characteristics + of the basin. The lower levels are furrowed with their threads of sand, + beds of rain-torrents discharged from the mountains; and each is edged by + brighter growths of thorn and fan-palm. The fattening Salíb grass is + scattered about the water; the large sorrel hugs the Fiumara-sides; the + hardy ‘Aushaz-thorn (Lycium), spangled with white bloom and red currants, + which the Arabs say taste like grapes, affects the drier levels; and + Tanzubs, almost all timber when old, become trees as large as the Jujube. + </p> + <p> + The Bújat is everywhere set in a regular rim of mountains. The Shafah + curtain to the north is fretted with a number of peaks, called as usual + after their Wadys;<a href="#linknote-66" name="linknoteref-66" + id="linknoteref-66"><small>66</small></a> the west is open with a great + slope, the Wady Manab, whose breadth is broken only by the "Magráh" + Naza'án, a remarkable saddleback with reclining cantle. It is distant a + ride of two hours, and we have now seen it for three marches. A little + south of east yawns the gorge-mouth of the Wady Nejd, the upper course of + the Abá'l-Gezáz: a jagged black curtain, the Jebel Dausal, forms its + southern jaw. Further south the Tihámah Mountains begin with the peaky + Jebel el-Kurr, another remarkable block which has long been in sight. Its + neighbour is the bluff-headed Jebel el-Wásil of Marwát; whilst the + trap-blocks, already mentioned as the Jibál el-‘Akábil, finish the circle. + </p> + <p> + The better to understand the shape of the ruins, we will ascend the + irregular block which rises a few furlongs to the north-east of the + palm-orchard. It has only three names: ‘Araygat Badá ("Veinlet of Badá"); + Zeba'yat Badá, "the Low-lying (Hill) of Badá;" and Shahíb el-Búm, "the + Ash-coloured (Hill) of the Owl." I will prefer the latter, as we actually + sighted one of those dear birds on its western flank. It is an outcrop of + grey granite, pigeon-holed by weather, and veined by a variety of dykes. + Here we find greenstone breccia'd with the blackest hornblende; there huge + filons of hard, red, heat-altered clays, faced with iron, whilst the + fracture is white as trachyte; and there filets of quartz, traversing + large curtains and sheets of light-coloured argils. This was evidently the + main quarry: the sides still show signs of made zigzags; and the red + blocks and boulders, all round the hill, bear the prayers and pious + ejaculations of the Faithful. The characters range between square Kufic, + hardly antedating four centuries, and the cursive form of our day. Some + are merely scraped; others are deeply and laboriously cut in the hard + material, a work more appropriate for the miner than for the passing + pilgrim. + </p> + <p> + From the ruined look-out on the summit the shape of the city shows a + highly irregular triangle of nine facets, forming an apex at the east end + of our "Owl's Hill:" the rises and falls of the ground have evidently + determined the outline. The palm-orchard, whose total circumference is + five hundred and thirty-six metres, occupies a small portion of its + south-eastern corner; and our camping-place, further east, was evidently + included in the ancient enceinte. The emplacement, extending along the + eastern bank of the main watercourse, is marked by a number of mounds + scattered over with broken glass and pottery of all kinds: no coins were + found, but rude bits of metal, all verdigris, were picked up north of the + palm-orchard. Here, too, lay queer fish-bones, with tusks and teeth, + chiefly the jaws of Scaridæ and Sparidæ (seabreams).<a href="#linknote-67" + name="linknoteref-67" id="linknoteref-67"><small>67</small></a> + </p> + <p> + Descending the Shahíb el-Búm, and passing a smaller black and white block + appended to its south-south-western side, we now cross to the left bank of + the main drain. Here lies the broken tank, the normal construction of + El-Islam's flourishing days. It is a square of thirty-two metres, whose + faces and angles do not front the cardinal points. At each corner a flight + of steps has been; two have almost disappeared, and the others are very + shaky. The floor, originally stone-paved, is now a sheet of hard silt, + growing trees and bush: dense Tanzub-clumps (Sodada decidua), with edible + red berries, sheltering a couple of birds'-nests, suggested a comparison + between the present and the past. At the east end is the Makhzan el-Máyah, + or "smaller reservoir," an oblong of 7.80 by 6.60 metres: the waggon-tilt + roof has disappeared, and the fissures show brick within the ashlar. Along + the eastern side are huge standing slabs of the coarse new sandstone with + which the tank is lined: these may be remains of a conduit. Around the + cistern lies a ruined graveyard, whose yawning graves supplied a couple of + skulls. A broken line of masonry, probably an aqueduct, runs + south-south-east (143° mag.) towards the palms: after two hundred metres + all traces of it are lost. + </p> + <p> + The mining industry could not have been a prominent feature at Badá, or we + should have found, as in Shaghab and Shuwák, furnaces and scoriæ. Yet + about the tank we lit upon large scatters of spalled quartz, which, + according to the Baliyy, is brought from the neighbouring mountains. Some + of it was rosy outside: other specimens bore stains of copper; and others + showed, when broken, little pyramids of ore. Tested in England, it proved + to be pure lead, a metal so rare that some metallurgists have doubted its + existence: the finds have been mostly confined to auriferous lands. The + blow-pipe soon showed that it was not galena (the sulphide), but some of + it contained traces of silver. Without knowing the rarity of these + specimens, certain American officers at the Citadel, Cairo, compared them + with the true galenas of the Dár-Forian mines, called Mahattat el-Risás + (the "Deposit of Lead"), in the Wady Gotam, three days north-east of the + capital El-Fashr. The African metal is rich. Large quantities, analyzed by + Gastinel Bey, gave fifty per cent. of lead, and of silver fifty dollars + per ton; but the distance from any possible market will reserve these + diggings for the use of the future. Some were sanguine enough to propose + smelting the metal at Khartúm, where Risás is ever in demand; and + accordingly, for a time Dar-For was "run," by a mild "ring," against + Midian. + </p> + <p> + The plain, I have said, is everywhere broken by piles of stone forming + knobby hills. Leaving the outlined sphinx to the right, we ascended a + second block, which rises on the west of the chief watercourse, further + down than the "Owl's Hill." This Tell el-Ahmar ("Red Hill"), alias Ja'dat + Badá (the "Curved Hill of Bada'"), is a quoin of grey granite bluff to the + south-west. The north-eastern flank shows the normal revetment of ruddy + and black heat-altered grit, which gives a red back to the pale-sided, + drab-coloured heap. Over the easy ascent is run a zigzag path; half-way, + up it passes piles of stone that denote building, and it abuts at the + summit upon one of those "look-outs" which are essentially Arab. + </p> + <p> + Again, to the south-east of the palms is the Huzaybat Badá, the + "(Isolated) Hillock of Badá," a low ridge of naked grey granite, much + scaled and pigeon-holed. On the plain to its north stretch regular lines + of stone, probably the remnants of a work intended to defend the city's + eastern approach. South of the Huzaybah appear the usual signs of an + atelier: these workshops are doubtless scattered all around the centre; + but a week, not a day, would be required to examine them. On the very eve + of our departure the guides pointed northwards (350° mag.) to a "Mountain + of Marú," called El-Arayfát, and declared that it contained a Zaríbat + el-Nasárá, or "enclosure made by the Nazarenes." I offered a liberal + present for specimens; all, however, swore that the distance ranged from + two to three hours of dromedary, and that no mounted messenger could catch + us unless we halted the next day. + </p> + <p> + The Bedawin, still relegated to the upper country, were sending their + scouts to ascertain if the water-supply was sufficient in Badá plain. The + adjacent valleys were dotted with she-camels and their colts. The adult + animal here sells for twelve to thirty dollars. During the cotton-full in + Egypt, and the cotton-famine of the United States, they fetched as many + pounds sterling at the frontier; and the traders of El-Wijh own to having + made two hundred per cent., which we may safely double. I asked them why + they did not import good stallions from the banks of the Nile; and the + reply was that of the North Country—the experiment had ended in the + death of the more civilized brutes. This is easily understood: the Baliyy + camel seems to live on sand. + </p> + <p> + The camp was visited by a few Bedawi stragglers, and the reports of their + immense numbers were simply absurd. The males were not to be + distinguished, in costume and weapons, from their neighbours; and the + "females" were all dark and dressed in amorphous blue shirts. At last came + an old man and woman of the Huwaytát tribe, bringing for sale a quantity + of liquefied butter. They asked a price which would have been dear on the + seaboard; and naively confessed that they had taken us for pilgrims,—birds + to be plucked. But sheep and goats were not to be found in the + neighbourhood: yesterday we had failed to buy meat; and to-day the young + Shaykh, Sulaymán, was compelled to mount his dromedary and ride afar in + quest of it. The results were seven small sheep, which, lean with walking, + cost eleven dollars; and all were slaughtered before they had time to put + on fat. + </p> + <p> + During our stay a pitiable object, with a hide- bandaged lower leg, often + limped past the tents; and, thinking the limb broken, I asked the history + of the accident. Our hero, it appears, was a doughty personage, famed for + valour, who had lately slipped into the Juhayni country with the laudable + intention of "lifting" a camel. He had, indeed, "taken his sword, and went + his way to rob and steal," under the profound conviction that nothing + could be more honourable—in case of success. He was driving off the + booty, when its master sallied out to recover the stolen goods by force + and by arms. Both bared their blades and exchanged cuts, when the Baliyy + found that his old flamberge was too blunt to do damage. Consequently he + had the worse of the affair; a slicing of the right hand forced him to + drop his "silly sword." He then closed with his adversary, who again + proved himself the better man, throwing the assailant, and at the same + time slashing open his left leg. The wounded man lay in the "bush" till he + gathered strength to "dot and go one" homewards. Amongst these tribes the + Diyat, or "blood-money," reaches eight hundred dollars; consequently men + will maim, but carefully avoid killing, one another. + </p> + <p> + The evening of our halt, with its lurid haze and its ominous brooding + stillness, was distinguished by a storm, a regular Arab affair, consisting + of dust by the ton to water by the drop. This infliction of the "fearful + fiend, Samiel, fatal to caravans," began in the west. A cloud of red sand + advanced like a prairie-fire at headlong speed before the mighty rushing + wind, whose damp breath smelt of rain; and presently the mountain-rim was + veiled in brown and ruddy and purple earth-haze. A bow in the eastern sky + strongly suggested, in the apparent absence of a shower, refraction by + dust—if such thing be possible. We were disappointed, by the + sinister wind, in our hopes of collecting a bottle of rain-water for the + photographer; nor did the storm, though it had all the diffused violence + of a wintry gale, materially alter the weather. The next two nights were + brisk and cool, but the afternoons blew either the Khamsín + ("south-wester") or the Azyab ("south-easter"). + </p> + <p> + The only Bedawi tradition concerning the Bada' plain is the following. + Many centuries ago, some say before the Apostle, the Baliyy held the land, + which was a valley of gardens, a foretaste of Irem; the people were happy + as the martyrs of Paradise, and the date-trees numbered two thousand. The + grove then belonged to a certain Ibn Mukarrib, who dwelt in it with his + son and a slave, not caring to maintain a large guard of Arabs. + Consequently he became on bad terms with the Ahámidah-Baliyy tribe, who + began systematically to rob his orchard. At last one of a large plundering + party said to him, "O Ibn Mukarrib! wilt thou sell this place of two + thousand (trees), and not retreat (from thy bargain)?" He responded "Buy!" + (i.e. make an offer). The other, taking off his sandal, exclaimed. "With + this!" and the proprietor, in wrath, rejoined, "I have sold!" + </p> + <p> + Ibn Mukarrib then arose and went forth, with his son and the slave, to the + place whence came the water (that fed the palms): this he closed up, and + fared towards the north. One day it so happened that the three were + sitting under the shade of a Marakh-tree and eating its berries. Quoth the + sire to the son, "Say, which is the sweeter, the eating of the Marakh + fruit or the dates of our orchard?" And the youth rejoined, "O my father! + far sweeter is the eating of the fruit of our palm-yard;" when his sire at + once arose and slew him with the sword (to wipe away the disgrace of such + want of manliness). + </p> + <p> + Then Ibn Mukarrib turned to the slave, and asked him the question which he + had asked of his son. Whereupon the slave replied in this quatrain: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Eating wild grain in the house of respect; + And not eating dates in the house of contempt: + And walking in honour but a single day; + And not sitting in disgrace for a thousand years!" +</pre> + <p> + Ibn Mukarrib, pleased with these words, forthwith adopted the slave; both + marched to the north and dwelt there till the end of their days. The + palm-trees, deprived of irrigation, all died; and Bújat-Badá, the + beautiful, became a wilderness. About twenty years ago, the wells were + reopened and the dates were replanted. So much for the past: as for the + future, we may safely predict that, unless occupied by a civilized people, + the Badá plain will again see worse times. Nothing would be easier than to + rebuild the town, and to prepare the basin for irrigation and cultivation; + but destruction is more in the Bedawi line. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVIII. — Coal a "Myth"—March to Marwát—Arrival + at the Wady Hamz. + </h2> + <p> + Before leaving Badá I was careful to make all manner of inquiries + concerning stone-coal; and the guides confirmed the suspicions which had + long suggested themselves. His Highness the Viceroy had laid great stress + upon the search: the first question to me on return was whether the fuel + had been found; and a shade of disappointment appeared when the answer + distinctly declared it a myth. + </p> + <p> + This coal, it appears, is an old story. My learned friend Sprenger wrote + to me (June 13, 1877): "It is likely that west of Marwa, on the way to + Hawrá (which lies on the sea-shore), coal is found: I confess that the + prospect of discovering much coal in Arabia does not appear to me very + great; still it would be worth while to make inquiries." Subsequently + (December 8, 1877), he gave up all hopes of the pure mineral, but he still + clave to bituminous schist. El-Mukaddasi (p. 103),<a href="#linknote-68" + name="linknoteref-68" id="linknoteref-68"><small>68</small></a> treating + of the marvels of the land, has the following passage unconnected with + those which precede and succeed it:—"A fire arose between El-Marwat + and El-Haurá, and it burned, even as charcoal (el-Fahm) burns." Probably + Sprenger had read, "and it (the stone) burned as charcoal burns," + suggesting that the houses and huts were built of inflammable material, + like the bituminous schist of the Brazil; and that the Arabs were + surprised to find them taking fire. Evidently, however, the text refers to + an eruption in one of the many Harrahs or volcanic districts. El-Mukaddasi + describes the "houses artful (farihín, alluding to the Thamúdites in the + Koran, xxvi. 149), and made of admirable stone (alabaster?); over the + doors were knots (‘Ukúd), and ornaments (Turúh), and carvings (Nukúsh)." + </p> + <p> + Landing at El-Wijh, I at once consulted our intelligent friend, the Wakíl + Mohammed Shahádah. He had sent for a camel-load of the stuff, which, he + declared, would not burn, although it had burned his money. He then + travelled in person to the Jebel el-Muharrak ("Burnt Mountain"), five + short marches inland from El-Badá plain, and behind its northern curtain, + the Jibál el-Shafah. According to him, El-Muharrak is part of the great + Harrah; and the unexplored Jaww, which lies north (?) of it, is a + prolongation of the Hismá plateau, here belonging to the Balawíyyah or + Baliyy-land. The mountain is tall and black, apparently consisting of the + "coal." Near its summit lies the Bir el-Shifá' ("Well of Healing"), a pit + of cold sulphur-water, excellent for the eyes; and generally a "Pool of + Bethesda," whither Arabs flock from afar. At Abá'l-Gezáz, Mohammed + destroyed all our surviving hopes by picking up a black stone which, he + declared, belonged to El-Muharrak. It was schist, with a natural fracture + not unlike coal, and weathered into the semblance of wood: unfortunately + it was hard as iron, and it did not contain an atom of bitumen. + </p> + <p> + At Badá old Shaykh ‘Afnán, whose tents are now pitched one day ahead of + us, was taken into consultation upon the subject. He confirmed these + statements of the Wakíl, adding that the Shafah Mountains are a mere + ridge, not the seaward walls of a plateau, and that the land east of them + is exactly that which we have already traversed. He had bathed in the + sulphur-water; he spoke of brimstone being picked up on the hill-flanks, + and he had heard of El-Kohl (stibium, collyrium, antimony) being found + about El-Muharrak.<a href="#linknote-69" name="linknoteref-69" + id="linknoteref-69"><small>69</small></a> + </p> + <p> + These details, apparently authentic, did not tempt me to waste precious + time upon El-Muharrak. I do not yet despair, as has been said, of finding + coal in Arabia; but we must hardly expect volcanic ground to yield it. + </p> + <p> + Our preparations for a march southwards were made under difficulties. The + Baliyy evidently like the prospect of some £6 per diem; and do not like + the idea of approaching the frontier, where their camels may be stolen. + Every silly, childish pretext was used to suggest delay. We ought not to + move without seeing the "Nazarenes' Ruin" at El-‘Arayfát. Again, I had + sent a certain Salim, a cousin of the Shaykh, with orders for fresh + supplies from El-Wijh: he was certain to miss us if we marched. Still + again, old ‘Afnán's dromedary had a thorn in the foot—u. s. w. + </p> + <p> + Nevertheless, an order was given for the return march on April 5th. + </p> + <p> + No matter how philosophical the traveller may be, I defy him not to feel + some emotion when, his Desert work being duly done, he throws his leg over + the saddle, and turn the animal's head homewards—towards London. + Such was our pleasant predicament; for, though the détour would be + considerable, and the delay still more so, I could distinguish the bourne + at the far end of the very long perspective. + </p> + <p> + We were now in excellent marching order, not, however, including the + mules, of which two had broken down with sore backs, and the others were + breaking fast. The réveillé sounded at 3 to 3.30 p.m.; the "general" + followed at four; and the start took place immediately afterwards. The + camels are wretched animals, that work equally badly full and fasting: + when hungry, they break their halters to graze along the path; and when + gorged they are too lazy to go beyond a saunter of two miles an hour. Yet + they can work well when pushed: the man Sa'lim came up with us on the + evening of the fourth day, after a forced march of thirty-two hours. + </p> + <p> + We took the track which crosses the Bújat-Badá to the south-east. For a + short way it was vilely rat-eaten; presently it issued upon good, hard, + stony ground; and, after four miles, it entered the Wady el-Marwát. This + gorge, marked by the Jebel Wásil, a round head to the north, is a + commonplace affair of trap and white clay; broad, rough, and + unpicturesque. The sole shows many piles of dry stone, ruins of "boxes," + in which the travelling Arab passes the night, whilst his camels are + tethered outside. The watercourse heads in a Khuraytah, the usual + rock-ladder; we reached it after eleven miles' riding. Nájí, the + sea-lawyer of the party, assured us that we had not finished a third of + the way, when two-thirds would have been nearer the truth. + </p> + <p> + The Wady sides and head showed traces of hard work, especially where three + veins of snowy quartz had been deeply cut into. The summit of the Col, + some 2100 feet above sea-level, carried a fine reef of "Marú," measuring + eight feet at the widest, and trending 332° (mag.) Around it lay the usual + barbarous ruins, mere basements, surrounded by spalled stone: from this + place I carried off a portable Kufic inscription. The view down the + regular and tree-dotted slope of the Wady el-Marwát, as far as the flats + of Badá, was charming, an Argelèz without its over-verdure. + </p> + <p> + From the Col two roads lead to our day's destination. The short cut to the + right was reported stony: as most of our mules were casting their irons + and falling lame, I avoided it by the advice of Furayj, thereby giving + huge offence to old ‘Afnán. We followed the long slope trending to the + Wady el-Kurr, which drains the notable block of that name. Seeing the + Wakíl, and the others in front, cutting over the root to prevent rounding + a prodigiously long tongue-tip, I was on the qui vive for the normal + dodge; and presently the mulatto Abdullah screamed out that the Nakb must + be avoided, as it was all rock. We persisted and found the path almost as + smooth as a main road. The object was to halt for the night at a + neighbouring water-hole in the rocks; and, when their trick failed, the + Baliyy with a naive infantine candour, talked and laughed over their + failure, sans vergogne and within earshot. + </p> + <p> + Despite the many Zawábahs ("dust-devils"), this was one of our finest + travelling days. After the usual ante-meridian halt, we pushed on down the + valley, meeting only a few donkey-drivers. At 2.15 p.m. (seven hours = + twenty miles and a half), we reached the beautiful ‘Ayn el-Kurr, some ten + direct miles east of the Wady Rábigh; and the caravan was only one hour + behind us. This Wady is a great and important affluent of the Wady + el-Miyáh already mentioned. The reach where we camped runs from north to + south; and the "gate" of porphyritic trap, red, green, yellow, and white + with clay, almost envelops the quartz-streaked granite. The walls are high + enough to give shade between eight a.m. and 2.15 p.m.; and the level sole + of the cleanest sand is dotted, near the right side, with holes and pools + of the sweetest water. Here "green grow the rushes," especially the + big-headed Kasbá (Arundo donax); the yellow-tipped Namas or flags (Scirpus + holoschænus) form a dense thicket; the ‘Ushr, with its cork-like bark + which makes the best tinder, is a tree, not a shrub; and there are large + natural plantations of the saffron-flowered, tobacco-like Verbascum, the + Arab's Uzn el-Humár ("Donkey's Ear"). Add scattered clusters of + date-trees, domineering over clumps of fan-palm; and, lastly, marvellous + to relate, a few hundred feet of greensward, of regular turf—a + luxury not expected in North-Western Arabia—a paradise for frogs and + toads (Bufo vulgaris), grasshoppers, and white pigeons; and you will + sympathize with our enjoyment at the ‘Ayn el-Kurr. In such a place + extensive ruins of the "Old Ones" were to be expected. Apparently there is + no trace of man beyond Wasm on the rocks; a few old Bedawi graves in a + dwarf Wady inflowing from the west; a rude modern watercourse close above + its mouth, and Arab fences round the trimmed dates and newly set palm + shoots. + </p> + <p> + During the afternoon the Shaykhs came to us with very long faces. At this + season, and as long as the Baliyy are in the Shafah uplands, the almost + deserted frontier districts, which we are about to enter, suffer from the + Gaum, or razzia, of the neighbouring ‘Anezah and the Juhaynah;—the + two tribes, however, not mixing. The bandits, numbering, they say, from + fifty to sixty, mounted on horses and dromedaries, only aspire to plunder + some poor devil-shepherd of a few camels, goats, and muttons. They never + attack in rear; they always sleep at night, save when every moment is + precious for "loot"-driving; and their weapons, which may be deadly in the + narrows, are despicable in the open country. + </p> + <p> + I suspected at first that this was another "dodge" to enhance the services + of our Arabs, but the amount of risk we were to run was soon found out by + consulting Furayj. He said that we must march in rear of the caravan for a + day or two; and that such attacks were possible, but only once in a + hundred cases. There might have been treachery in camp; the Egyptian + officers suggested that a Baliyy scout could have been sent on to announce + the approach of a rich caravan. Accordingly, I ordered an evening review + of our "Remingtons;" and chose a large mark purposely, that the Bedawi + lookers-on might not have cause to scoff. The escort redeemed many a past + lâche, by showing that their weapons had been kept bright and clean, and + by firing neatly enough. The Baliyy, who had never seen a breech-loader, + were delighted; but one of our party so disliked the smell of powder, that + he almost quarrelled with me for bringing him into such imminent deadly + risk. He was hardly to be blamed; his nerves had been terribly shaken by a + viper killed in his tent. + </p> + <p> + Next morning (April 6th) saw the most unpleasant of our marches. The young + Shaykh Sulaymán, accompanied by his cousin Sálim, set out in the dark as + éclaireurs: they were supposed to lead eight or ten of the best + matchlock-men, whereas I doubt whether the whole camp contained that + total. Presently it appeared that they were alone, and the farce was + hardly kept up through the next day. At 5.15 a.m. we followed them, + marching militairement, as my friend Sefer Pasha had strongly advised at + Cairo. It is no joke to follow starveling beasts whose best speed seldom + attains two miles and a half per hour. However, the effect was excellent: + never had there been so little straggling; never had the halting-places + been reached in such good time and good order. + </p> + <p> + A pleasant surprise awaited us in the grandest display of quartz that we + had yet seen. The descent of the Wady el-Kurr seemed to be as flat, stale, + and profitless as possible, when "Mará" appeared on the left side in + mounds, veins, and strews. Presently we turned south, and passed the + brackish well, El-Hufayrah ("the Little Pit"), in a bay of the left bank, + distant about eight miles from our last camp. Here the whole Wady, some + two miles broad, was barred with quartz, in gravel of the same rock, and + in veins which, protruding from the dark schist, suggested that it + underlies the whole surface. Nothing more remarkable than the variety of + forms and tints mingling in the mighty mass—the amorphous, the + crystallized, the hyaline, the burnt; here mottled and banded, there plain + red and pink, green and brown, slaty and chocolate, purple, kaolin-white; + and, rarest of all, honeycomb-yellow. The richest part was at the Majrá + el-Kabsh ("Divide of the Ram"), where we alighted and secured specimens. + </p> + <p> + From this point the Wady el-Kurr flows down the right side of its valley, + and disappears to the west; while the far side of the Majrá shows the Wady + Gámirah (Kámirah), another influent of the Wady el-Miyáh. Various minor + divides led to the Wady el-Laylah, where ruins were spoken of by our + confidant, ‘Audah, although his information was discredited by the + Shaykhs. Quartz-hills now appeared on either side, creamy-coated cones, + each capped by its own sparkle whose brilliancy was set off by the gloomy + traps which they sheeted and topped. In some places the material may have + been the usual hard, white, heat-altered clay; but the valley-sole showed + only the purest "Marú." The height of several hills was nearly double that + of the northern Jebel el-Abyaz; and the reef-crests were apparently + unworked. + </p> + <p> + After the march had extended to seven hours (= 18 miles), there were loud + complaints about its length, the venerable ‘Afnán himself begging us to + spare his camels—which, being interpreted, meant spoiling our + pockets. I therefore gave orders to camp in the broad and open Wady + Laylah. We were far from water, but the evening was pleasant, and the + night was still more agreeable. + </p> + <p> + At five a.m. next day (April 7th) we rode up the Wady Laylah, which gave + us another surprise, and an unexpected joy, in the shifting scenery of the + Jibál el-Safhah. The "Mountains of the Plain," so called because they + start suddenly from a dead level, are a section of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah + range; yet they are worthy links of a chain which boasts of a Shárr. + Rising hard on our left, beyond the dull traps that hem in the Wadys, + these blocks, especially the lower features, the mere foot-hills, assume + every quaintest nuance of hue and form. The fawn-grey colour, here shining + as if polished by "slickensides," there dull and roughened by the rude + touch of Time, is a neutral ground that takes all the tints with which sun + and moon, mist and cloud, paint and glaze the world: changeable as the + chameleon's, the coating is never the same for two brief hours. The + protean shape, seen in profile and foreshortened from the north or south, + appears a block bristling with "Pins" and points, horns and beaks. Viewed + from the east the range splits into a double line, whose ranks have never + been "dressed" nor sized; whilst a diagonal prospect so alters their forms + and relations that they apparently belong to another range. + </p> + <p> + The background, lying upon the most distant visible plane, is the + white-streaked and regular wall of the Jebel el-Ward, which we have + already seen from the sea. Its northern foot-ranges are the pale-white and + jagged ‘Afayr, whose utter isolation makes it interesting; and the low and + long, the dark and dumpy Jebel Tufayyah. It is separated by a broad valley + from its southern neighbour, the Jebel el-Ughlub, or El-Ghalab as some + call it. This typical block consists chiefly of a monstrous "Parrot's + Beak" of granite, continued by a long dorsum to the south. Its outliers + number four. These are, first, the Umm Natash, two sets of perpendicular + buttresses pressed together like sausages or cigars. Then comes the Talát + Muhajjah, a broken saddleback, whose cantle from the south-east appears + split into a pair of steeple-like boulders—an architect of Alexander + the Great's day would have easily cut and trimmed them into such towers as + the world has never seen. Follows the Umm el-Natákah, bristling like the + fretful porcupine, and apparently disdaining to receive the foot of man; + while the last item, the Jebel el-Khausilah, has outlines so thoroughly + architectural that we seem to gaze upon a pile of building. + </p> + <p> + About five miles behind or south of El-Khausilah runs the Wady Hamz. Thus + the two blocks, El-Ward and El-Ughlub, form the Safhah proper. The line is + continued, after a considerable break, by the two blue and conical peaks + in the Tihámat-Jahaníyyah, known as the Jebelayn el-Rál. They are divided + and drained to the Wady Hamz by the broad Wady el-Sula'; and the latter is + the short cut down which the Egyptian Hajj, returning northwards from + El-Medínah, debouches upon the maritime plain of South Midian. + </p> + <p> + The Wady Laylah, draining both the Shafah and the Tihámah ranges, + including the block El-Ward, assumes, as usual, various names: we shall + follow it till it is received into the mighty arms of the Wady Hamz, some + three miles from the sea. After riding eight hours, we sighted the long + line of Daum-palms which announce the approach to El-Birkah, "the Tank." + Here the huge Fiumara, sweeping grandly from north-east to south-west, + forms a charming narrow and a river-like run about a mile and a half long—phenomenal + again in sun-scorched Arabia. The water, collecting under the masses of + trap which wall in the left bank, flows down for some distance in threads, + à ciel ouvert, and finally combines in a single large blue-green pool on + the right side. A turquoise set in enamel of the brightest verdure, it + attracts by its dense and shady beds of rushes a variety of water-fowl—one + of our Bedawin killed a black-headed duck with a bullet, which spoilt it + as a specimen. About the water-run are dwarf enclosures, and even + water-melons were sown; unhappily the torrent came down and carried all + away. + </p> + <p> + We halted near the upper spring at 8.20 a.m., after the usual accident + which now occurred daily about that hour. On this occasion Lieutenant + Yusuf's shoe stuck in the stirrup when he was dismounting from an unsteady + mule; the animal threw him, and he had a somewhat narrow escape from being + dragged to death. Man and beast would have lingered long over the + pleasures of watering and refection, but I forced them onwards at nine + a.m., whilst the hot sun-rays were still tempered by the cool land-breeze. + The threads of water and the wet ground extended some two kilometres + beyond the Birkat. Further on was another fine "gate," whose eastern or + right jamb was the Jibál el-Tibgh, fronting the Wady M'jirmah. The narrows + showed two Arab wells, with the usual platform of dry trunks that make a + footing round the mouth. There was no break in the continuity of the + quartz: the black trap enclosed, here sheets, there veins, and there + almonds in puddings. + </p> + <p> + At the halting-place a "cerastes" (Echis carinata, Merr.), so called from + the warty hollows over the eyes (?), was brought to me in a water-bag; the + bearer transferred it to the spirit-bottle by neatly thrusting a + packing-needle through the head. The pretty specimen of an amiable, and + much oppressed, race did not show an atom of vice. I cannot conceive what + has caused the absurd prejudice against snakes, even the most harmless. + Perhaps we must trace it to the curious resemblance of the profile, with + the flattened forehead, the steely bright eye, the formidable biting + apparatus, and the vanishing chin, to the genus woman, species Lorette. It + is hard to imagine that this little beast, which some one called a + "Cleopatra's hasp," could be fatal: its small bag can hardly contain a + couple of drops. Yet the vox populi is distinctly against me. + </p> + <p> + The Shaykhs were anxious to push on for another half-hour, where, they + declared, a rain-hole is found in the next ravine, the Sha'b el-Kahafah. + But we had been privily told of another further down the valley, at the + Sha'b el-Hárr; and, although we much wanted a bottleful for photography, + we determined to run the risk. The result is curious, showing how + jealously water-secrets are kept in these lands. The next thing I heard + was that the water had waxed salt; then it had dried up; and, lastly, it + was in the best condition, the truth being that there was none at all. + Consequently we were compelled to send back four camels and two cameleers + from our next camping-ground to the Kahafah. Venerable ‘Afnán made many a + difficulty, and an uncommon favour, of risking the plundering of the + dromedaries and the lives of his caterans by a razzia. The fellows set off + after nightfall towards the upper ravine, distant some two hours' slow + march: they must there have had a pleasant, refreshing sleep; and they did + not return, doubtless by order, till late next morning. This gave the + Shaykhs a good opportunity of fearing greatly for the safety of their + people, and of delaying our march as much as possible. + </p> + <p> + Resuming the road at 2.30 p.m., we entered the western prolongation of the + Wady el-Birkah. Here it becomes the Wady Abá'l-‘Agág (‘Ajáj), and + preserves that name till it anastomoses with the Hamz. There have been + some wells in the bed; but all are now filled up, and water must be + carried from El-Birkah. We camped at a noble reach, garnished with a mimic + forest of old tamarisks, whose small voices, united in chorus, passably + imitated the mighty murmur of the sea. Our day's march had covered a score + of miles; hard work, considering the condition of the mules. + </p> + <p> + After a splendid night, we set out London-wards at five a.m., April 8th, + delayed, as has been said, by the politiké of the Shaykhs. Moreover, one + of the party, whose motto should have been halt's maul, had remarked that + the camels appeared fewer than before—another reason for stopping to + count them. Half an hour placed us at a lower and a grander carrefour, + abounding in fuel and seducing with tamarisk-shade: its water is known as + the Máyat el-Badí'ah. Presently the hilly encasement of the Wady el-‘Ajáj + ended with El-‘Adrá, a red butte to the left, and the Jebel el-Yakhmúm on + the right. This knob was copiously veined with quartz, of which a + prodigious depôt, explored on the next day, exists in the heights behind + it. The Wady now flares out; we have done with the Tihámah Mountains, and + we are again in maritime South Midian. + </p> + <p> + Although we were standing some four hundred feet above the wassersspiegel, + there was no view of the sea, and we had to cross a wave of ground before + we pulled off our hats to Father Neptune, as he lay smiling in front of + us. There was nothing monotonous in the scene. The mirage raised high in + air the yellow mound of Ras Kurkumah ("Turmeric Head"), which bounded the + water-line to the south. Nearer, but still far to the left, ran the high + right bank of the Wady Hamz, sweeping with a great curve from north-east + to west, till it stood athwart our path. Knobby hills were scattered over + the plain; and on our right rose El-Juwayy, a black mound with white-sided + and scarred head, whose peculiar shape, a crest upon a slope, showed us + once more the familiar Secondary formation of North-Western Arabia. Thus + the gypsum has been traced from the Sinaitic shore as far south as the + Wady Hamz. + </p> + <p> + We rode sharply forwards, impatient to see the classical ruins, leaving + the caravan to follow us. The Girdi ("sand-rat") had ceased to burrow the + banks; but the jerboa had made regular rabbit-warrens. At half-past seven + we crossed a winding and broad-spreading track, the upper Hajj-road, by + which the Egyptian Mahmal passes when returning from El-Medi'nah viâ the + Wady Hamz. A few yards further on showed us a similar line, the route + taken by the caravan when going to Meccah viâ Yambú', now distant five + marches. The two meet at the Wady Wafdíyyah, to the north-east of the + Abá'l-Marú range, which we shall visit to-morrow. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after 10 a.m. we crossed the deepest vein of the Wady Hamz, urged + the mules up the *stiff* left bank, and sprang from the saddle to enjoy a + first view of the Gasr (Kasr) Gurayyim Sa'id. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIX. — The Wady Hamz—the Classical Ruin—Abá'l-Marú, + the Mine of + </h2> + <p> + "Marwah"—Return to El-Wijh—Résumé of the Southern Journey. + </p> + <p> + Before describing the Palace of Sa'íd the Brave, I must devote a few lines + to a notice of the Wady Hamz. The Wady Hamz, which has been mentioned as + the southern frontier of Egyptian Midian, and the northern limit of the + Ottoman Hejaz, is the most notable feature of its kind upon the + North-Western Arabian shore. Yet Wallin has unjustifiably described and + inscribed it "Wady Nejd," confusing it with a northern basin, whose mouth, + the Salbah (Thalbah), we passed before reaching Sharm Dumayghah. He + appears to identify it with the classical Wady el-Kura. Sprenger clean + ignores the name, although he mentions its branches; and of course it is + utterly neglected by the Hydrographic Chart. This main approach to the + Arabian interior is not a fissure, like the vulgar Wadys, but rather an + opening where the Gháts, or maritime chain, break to the north and south. + Distant one long or two short marches from El-Wijh, its mouth is in north + lat. 25° 55'; and it is said to head fifteen days inland, in fact beyond + El-Medínah, towards which it curves with a south-easterly bend. It + receives a multitude of important secondary valleys; amongst which is the + Wady el-‘Uwaynid, universally so pronounced. I cannot help thinking that + this is El-‘Aúníd of El-Mukaddasi, which El-Idrísí (erroneously?) throws + into the sea opposite Nu'ma'n Island. If my conjecture prove true, we thus + have a reason why this important line has been inexplicably neglected. + Another branch is the Wady el-‘Is, Sprenger's "Al-‘Ys" (pp. 28, 29), which + he calls "a valley in the Juhaynah country," and makes the northern + boundary of that tribe. + </p> + <p> + Ethnologically considered, the lower Wady Hamz is now the southern + boundary of the Balawíyyah (Baliyy country), and the northern limit of the + Jahaníyyah, or Juhaynah-land: the latter is popularly described as + stretching down coast to Wady Burmah, one march beyond Yambú' (?). Higher + up it belongs to the Alaydán-‘Anezahs, under Shaykh Mutlak—these + were the Bedawin who, during our stay at the port, brought their caravan + to El-Wijh. Both tribes are unsafe, and they will wax worse as they go + south. Yet there is no difficulty in travelling up the Hamz, at least for + those who can afford time and money to engage the escort of Shaykh Mutlak. + A delay of twelve days to a fortnight would be necessary, and common + prudence would suggest the normal precaution of detaining, as hostage in + the seaboard settlement, one of his Alaydán cousins. Water is to be found + the whole way, and the usual provisions are to be bought at certain + places. + </p> + <p> + The following notes upon the ruins of the Wady Hamz were supplied to me by + the Baliyy Bedawin and the citizens of El-Wijh. Six stages up the lower + valley, whose direction lies nearly north-east, lead to El-‘Ilá, Wallin's + "Ela," which belongs to the ‘Anezah. Thence a short day, to the north with + easting, places the traveller at Madáin (not Madyan nor Medínat) Sálih—"the + cities of Sálih." The site is described to be somewhat off the main + valley, which is here broken by a Nakb (?); and those who have visited + both declared that it exactly resembles Nabathæan Magháir Shu'ayb in + extensive ruins and in catacombs caverning the hill-sides. + </p> + <p> + Also called El-Hijr, it is made by Sprenger (p. 20) the capital of + Thamuditis. This province was the head-quarters of the giant race termed + the "Sons of Anak" (Joshua xi. 21); the Thamudeni and Thamudæ of + Agatharkides and Diodorus; the Tamudæi of Pliny; the Thamyditæ of Ptolemy; + and the Arabian Tamúd (Thamúd), who, extinct before the origin of + El-Islam, occupied the seaboard between El-Muwaylah and El-Wijh. Their + great centre was the plain El-Badá; and they were destroyed by a terrible + sound from heaven, the Beth-Kol of the Hebrews, after sinfully + slaughtering the miraculously produced camel of El-Sálih, the Righteous + Prophet (Koran, cap. vii.). The exploration of "Sálih's cities" will be + valuable if it lead to the collection of inscriptions sufficiently + numerous to determine whether the Tamúd were Edomites, or kin to the + Edomites; also which of the two races is the more ancient, the Horites of + Idumæa or the Horites in El-Hijr. + </p> + <p> + And now to inspect the Gasr. The first sensation was one of surprise, of + the mental state which gave rise to the Italian's— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "Dear Columns, what do you here? + ‘Not knowing, can't say, Mynheer!'" +</pre> + <p> + And this incongruous bit of Greece or Rome, in the Arabian wild, kept its + mystery to the last: the more we looked at it, the less we could explain + its presence. Not a line of inscription, not even a mason's mark—all + dark as the grave; deaf-dumb as "the olden gods." + </p> + <p> + The site of the Gasr is in north lat. 25° 55' 15";<a href="#linknote-70" + name="linknoteref-70" id="linknoteref-70"><small>70</small></a> and the + centre of the Libn block bears from it 339° (mag.). It stands upon the + very edge of its Wady's left bank, a clifflet some twenty-five feet high, + sloping inland with the usual dark metal disposed upon loose yellow sand. + Thus it commands a glorious view of the tree-grown valley, or rather + valleys, beneath it; and of the picturesque peaks of the + Tihámat-Balawíyyah in the background. The distance from the sea is now a + little over three miles—in ancient days it may have been much less. + </p> + <p> + The condition of the digging proves that the remains have not long been + opened: the Baliyy state less than half a century ago; but exactly when or + by whom is apparently unknown to them. Before that time the locale must + have shown a mere tumulus, a mound somewhat larger than the many which + pimple the raised valley-bank behind the building. A wall is said to have + projected above ground, as at Uriconium near the Wrekin.<a + href="#linknote-71" name="linknoteref-71" id="linknoteref-71"><small>71</small></a> + This may have suggested excavation, besides supplying material for the + Bedawi cemetery to the south-west. The torrent waters have swept away the + whole of the northern wall, and the treasure-seeker has left his mark upon + the interior. Columns and pilasters and bevelled stones have been hurled + into the Wady below; the large pavement-slabs have been torn up and tossed + about to a chaos; and the restless drifting of the loose yellow + Desert-sand will soon bury it again in oblivion. The result of all such + ruthless ruining was simply null. The imaginative Nájí declared, it is + true, that a stone dog had been found; but this animal went the way of the + "iron fish," which all at El-Muwaylah asserted to have been dug up at + El-Wijh—the latter place never having heard of it. Wallin (p. 316) + was also told of a black dog which haunts the ruins of Karáyyá, and acts + guardian to its hidden treasures. Years ago, when I visited the mouth of + the Volta river on the Gold Coast, the negroes of Cape Coast Castle were + pleased to report that I had unearthed a silver dog, at whose appearance + my companion, Colonel de Ruvignes, and myself fell dead. But why always a + dog? The "Palace" is a Roman building of pure style; whether temple or + nymphæum, we had no means of ascertaining. The material is the Rughám or + alabaster supplied by the Secondary formation; and this, as we saw, + readily crumbles to a white powder when burnt. The people, who in such + matters may be trusted, declare that the quarries are still open at Abú + Makhárír, under the hills embosoming Abá'l-Marú. We should have been less + surprised had the ruin been built of marble, which might have been + transported from Egypt; but this careful and classical treatment of the + common country stone, only added to the marvel. + </p> + <p> + It must have been a bright and brilliant bit of colouring in its best days—hence, + possibly, the local tradition that the stone sweats oil. The whole + building, from the pavement to the coping, notched to receive the + roof-joists, is of alabaster, plain-white and streaked with ruddy, mauve, + and dark bands, whose mottling gives the effect of marble. Perhaps in + places the gypsum has been subjected to plutonic action; and we thought + that the coloured was preferred to the clear for the bases of the columns. + The exposed foundations of the eastern and western walls, where the + torrent has washed away the northern enceinte, show that, after the + fashion of ancient Egypt, sandstone slabs have been laid underground, the + calcaire being reserved for the hypaethral part. The admirable hydraulic + cement is here and there made to take the place of broken corners, and + flaws have been remedied by carefully letting in small cubes of sound + stone. There are also cramp-holes for metal which, of course, has been + carried off by the Bedawin: the rusty stains suggest iron. + </p> + <p> + The building is square-shaped, as we see from the western wall, and it + evidently faced eastward with 25° (mag.) of southing. This orientation, + probably borrowed from the Jews, was not thoroughly adopted in Christendom + till the early fifth century, when it became a mos. The southern wall, + whose basement is perfect, shows everywhere a thickness of 0.95 + centimetre, and a total length of 8 metres 30 centimetres. At 2 metres 87 + centimetres from the south-western corner is a slightly raised surface, + measuring in length 2 metres 15 centimetres. Mr. James Fergusson supposes + that this projection, which directly fronts the eastern entrance, was the + base of the niche intended for the image. On each side of the latter might + have been a smaller colonette, which would account for the capital carried + off by us to Egypt. Thus, adding 2 metres 87 centimetres for the northern + end swept into the valley, we have a length of 7 metres 89 centimetres; + and the additional half thickness of the east wall would bring it to a + total of 8 metres 30 centimetres. + </p> + <p> + The shrine was not in antis, and the site hardly admits of a peristyle; + besides which, excavations failed to find it. That it might have had a + small external atrium is made probable by the peculiarity of the entrance. + Two rounded pilasters, worked with the usual care inside, but left rough + in other parts because they could not be seen, were engaged in the + enceinte wall, measuring here, as elsewhere, 0.95 centimetre in thickness. + Nothing remained of them but their bases, whose lower diameters were 0.95 + centimetre, and the upper 0.65; the drums found elsewhere also measured + 0.65. The interval between the lowest rings was 1 metre 63 centimetres; + and this would give the measure of the doorway, here probably a + parallelogram. Lying on the sand-slope to the north, a single capital + showed signs of double brackets, although both have been broken off:<a + href="#linknote-72" name="linknoteref-72" id="linknoteref-72"><small>72</small></a> + the maximum diameter across the top was 0.60 centimetre, diminishing below + to 0.50 and 0.44, whilst the height was 0.40. The encircling wall was + probably adorned with pilasters measuring 0.62 centimetre below, 0.45 + above, and 0.11 in height: they are not shown in the plan; and I leave + experts to determine whether they supported the inside or the outside + surface. Several stones, probably copings, are cut with three + mortice-joints or joist-holes, each measuring 0.15 centimetre, at + intervals of 0.14 to 0.15. + </p> + <p> + In the tossed and tumbled interior of this maison carrée the + pavement-slabs, especially along the south-western side, appear in + tolerable order and not much disturbed; whilst further east a long trench + from north to south had been sunk by the treasure seeker. The breadth of + the free passage is 1 metre 92 centimetres; and the disposal suggested an + inner peristyle, forming an impluvium. Thus the cube could not have been a + heroön or tomb. Four bases of columns, with a number of drums, lie in the + heap of ruins, and in the torrent-bed six, of which we carried off four. + They are much smaller than the pilasters of the entrance; the lower tori + of the bases measure 0.60 centimetre in diameter, and 0.20 in height (to + 0.90 and 0.25), while the drums are 0.45, instead of 0.65. It is an + enormous apparatus to support what must have been a very light matter of a + roof. The only specimen of a colonette-capital has an upper diameter of + 0.26, a lower of 0.17, and a height of 0.16. + </p> + <p> + Although the Meccan Ka'bah is, as its name denotes, a "cube," this square + alabaster box did not give the impression of being either Arab or + Nabathæan. The work is far too curiously and conscientiously done; the + bases and drums, as the sundries carried to Cairo prove, look rather as if + turned by machinery than chiselled in the usual way. I could not but + conjecture that it belongs to the days of such Roman invasions as that of + Ælius Gallus. Strabo<a href="#linknote-73" name="linknoteref-73" + id="linknoteref-73"><small>73</small></a> tells us of his unfortunate + friend and companion, that, on the return march, after destroying Negrán<a + href="#linknote-74" name="linknoteref-74" id="linknoteref-74"><small>74</small></a> + (Pliny, vi. 32), he arrived at Egra or Hegra (El-‘Wijh), where he must + have delayed some time before he could embark "as much of his army as + could be saved," for the opposite African harbour, Myus Hormus. It is + within the limits of probability that this historical personage<a + href="#linknote-75" name="linknoteref-75" id="linknoteref-75"><small>75</small></a> + might have built the Gasr, either for a shrine or for a nymphæum, a + votive-offering to the Great Wady, which must have cheered his heart after + so many days of "Desert country, with only a few watering-places." Perhaps + an investigation of the ruins at Ras Kurkumah and the remains of Madáin + Sálih may throw some light upon the mystery. In our travel this bit of + classical temple was unique. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Fergusson, whose authority in such matters will not readily be + disputed, calls the building a small shrine; and determines that it can + hardly be a tomb, as it is hypæthral. The only similar temple known to him + is that of "Soueideh" (Suwaydah), in the Haurán (De Vogüé, "Syrie + Centrale," Plate IV.). The latter, which is Roman, and belonging to the + days of Herod Augustus, has a peristyle here wanting: in other respects + the resemblance is striking. + </p> + <p> + M. Lacaze photographed, under difficulties such as bad water and a most + unpleasant drift of sand-dust, the interior of the building, the stones + lying in the Wady below, and the various specimens which we carried off + for the inspection of his Highness the Viceroy. Meanwhile we "pottered + about," making small discoveries. The exposed foundations of the + north-western wall, where the slabs of grit rest upon the sands of the + cliff, afforded signs of man in the shape of a jaw-bone, with teeth + apparently modern; and above it, in the terreplein, we dug down upwards of + a yard, without any result beyond unearthing a fine black scorpion. The + adjoining Arab graveyard, adorned with the mutilated spoils of the + classical building, gave two imperfect skulls and four fragments. We + opened one of the many mounds that lie behind the Gasr, showing where most + probably stood the ruined town; and we found the interior traversed by a + crumbling wall of cut alabaster—regular excavation may some day + yield important results. A little to the south-west lies a kind of + ossuary, a tumulus slightly raised above the wavy level, and showing a + central pit choked with camels' bones: at least, we could find no other. + </p> + <p> + And here I was told the Arab legend by the Wakíl; who, openly deriding the + Bedawi idea that the building could be a "Castle," opined that it was a + Kanísah, a "Christian or pagan place of worship." Gurayyim Sa'íd, "Sa'íd + the Brave," was an African slave, belonging to an Arab Shaykh whose name + is forgotten. One day it so happened that a razzia came to plunder his + lord, when the black, whose strength and stature were equal to his courage + and, let us add, his appetite, did more than his duty. Thus he obtained as + a reward the promise of a bride, his master's daughter. But when the day + of danger was past, and the slave applied for the fair guerdon, the Shaykh + traitorously refused to keep his word. The Brave, finding a fit + opportunity, naturally enough carried off the girl to the mountains; + solemnly thrashed every pursuing party; and, having established a "reign + of terror," came to the banks of the Wady Hamz, and built the "Palace" for + himself and his wife. But his love for butcher's-meat did not allow him to + live happily ever after. As the land yielded little game, he took to + sallying out every day and carrying off a camel, which in the evening he + slew, and roasted, and ate, giving a small bit of it to his spouse. This + extravagance of flesh-diet ended by scandalizing the whole country-side, + till at last the owner of the plundered herds, Diyáb ibn Ghánim, one of + the notables celebrated in the romance called Sírat Abu' Zayd,<a + href="#linknote-76" name="linknoteref-76" id="linknoteref-76"><small>76</small></a> + assembled his merry men, attacked the Gurayyim, and slew him. Wa' s' + salám! + </p> + <p> + Here Egypt ends. We have done our work— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + "And now the hills stretch home." +</pre> + <p> + I must, however, beg the reader to tarry with me awhile. The next march to + the north will show him what I verily believe to be the old gold-mine + lying around El-Marwah. It acquires an especial interest from being the + northernmost known to the mediaeval geographers. + </p> + <p> + El-Mukaddasi (vol. I. p. 101), in an article kindly copied by my friend, + the Aulic Councillor, Alfred Von Kremer, says, "Between Yambú' and + El-Marwah are mines of gold;" adding ("Itinerary," vol. i. p. 107) the + following route directions: "And thou takest from El-Badr (‘the New Moon')<a + href="#linknote-77" name="linknoteref-77" id="linknoteref-77"><small>77</small></a> + to El-Yambú' two stages; thence to the Ras el-‘Ayn (?),<a + href="#linknote-78" name="linknoteref-78" id="linknoteref-78"><small>78</small></a> + one stage; again to the mine (subaudi, of gold), one stage; and, lastly, + to El-Marwah, two stages. And thou takest from El-Badr to El-Jár<a + href="#linknote-79" name="linknoteref-79" id="linknoteref-79"><small>79</small></a> + one stage; thence to El-Jahfah (?), or to El-Yambu', two stages each. And + thou takest from El-Jiddah (Jedda) to El-Jár, or to El-Surrayn (?), four + stages each. And thou takest from El-Yasrib (Jatrippa or El-Medínah) to + El-Suwaydíyyah (?), or to Batn el-Nakhil (?), two stages each; and from + El-Suwaydíyyah to El-Marwah, an equal distance (i.e. four marches); and + from the Batn el-Nakhil to the mine of silver, a similar distance. And if + thou seek the Jáddat Misr,<a href="#linknote-80" name="linknoteref-80" + id="linknoteref-80"><small>80</small></a> then take from El-Marwah to + El-Sukyá<a href="#linknote-81" name="linknoteref-81" id="linknoteref-81"><small>81</small></a> + (?), and thence to Badá Ya'kúb,<a href="#linknote-82" name="linknoteref-82" + id="linknoteref-82"><small>82</small></a> three marches; and thence to + El-‘Aúníd, one march." Hence Sprenger would place Zú'l-Marwah "four days + from El-Hijr, on the western road to Medina;" alluding to the western + (Syrian) road, now abandoned. + </p> + <p> + And now for our march. On the finest possible morning (April 9th), when + the world was all ablaze with living light, I walked down the Wady Hamz. + It has been abundantly supplied with water; in fact, the whole vein + (thalweg) subtending the left bank would respond to tapping. The well + El-Kusayr, just below the ruin, though at present closed, yielded till + lately a large quantity: about half a mile to the westward is, or rather + was, a saltish pit surrounded by four sweet. Almost all are now dry and + filled up with fuel. A sharp trudge of three-quarters of an hour leads to + the Bir el-Gurnah (Kurnah), the "Well of the Broad," in a district of the + same name, lying between the ruin and the shore. It is a great gash in the + sandy bed: the taste of the turbid produce is distinctly sulphurous; and + my old white mule, being dainty in her drink, steadfastly refused to touch + it. The distinct accents of the Red Sea told us that we were not more than + a mile from its marge. + </p> + <p> + We then struck north-east, over the salt maritime plain, till we hit the + lower course of the Wady Umm Gilifayn (Jilifayn). It heads from the + seaward base of the neighbouring hills; and its mouth forms a Marsá, or + "anchorage-place," for native craft. A little to the north stands the + small pyramidal Tuwayyil el-Kibrít, the "little Sulphur Hill," which had + been carefully examined by MM. Marie and Philipin. A slow ride of eight + miles placed us in a safe gorge draining a dull-looking, unpromising + block. Here we at once found, and found in situ for the first time, the + chalcedony which strews the seaboard-flat. This agate, of which amulets + and signet-rings were and are still made, and which takes many varieties + of tints, lies in veins mostly striking east-west; and varying in + thickness from an inch to several feet. The sequence is grey granite + below, the band of chalcedony, and above it a curious schistose + gneiss-formation. The latter, composing the greater part of these hills, + is striped dark-brown and yellow; and in places it looks exactly like + rotten wood. The small specimens of chalcedony in my private collection + were examined at Trieste, and one of them contained dendritic gold, + visible to the naked eye. Unfortunately the engineer had neglected this + most important rock, and only a few ounces of it, instead of as many tons, + were brought back for analysis. + </p> + <p> + A short and easy ascent led to a little counter-slope, the Majrá Mujayrah + (Mukayrah), whose whitening sides spoke of quartz. We rode down towards a + granite island where the bed mouths into the broad Wady Mismáh, a feeder + of the Wady ‘Argah. Here, after some ten miles, the guide, Na'ji', who + thus far had been very misty in the matter of direction, suddenly halted + and, in his showman style, pointed to the left bank of the watercourse, + exclaiming, "Behold Abá'l-Marú!" (the "Father of Quartz"). It was another + surprise, and our last, this snowy reef with jagged crest, at least 500 + metres long, forming the finest display of an exposed filon we had as yet + seen; but—the first glance told us that it had been worked. + </p> + <p> + We gave the rest of the day to studying and blasting the quartz-wall. It + proved to be the normal vein in grey granite, running south-north and + gradually falling towards the valley-plain. Here a small white outlier + disappears below the surface, rising again in filets upon the further + side. The dip is easterly: in this direction a huge strew of ore-mass and + rubbish covers the slope which serves as base to the perpendicular reef. + The Negro quartz, which must have formed half the thickness, had been + carried bodily away. If anything be left for the moderns it is hidden + underground: the stone, blasted in the little outlier, looked barren. Not + the least curious part of this outcrop is the black thread of iron + silicate which, broken in places, subtends it to the east: some specimens + have geodes yielding brown powder, and venal cavities lined with + botryoidal quartz of amethystine tinge. In other parts of the same hills + we found, running along the "Mará," single and double lines of this + material, which looked uncommonly like slag. + </p> + <p> + The open Wady Mismáh showed, to the east of our camp, the ruins of a large + settlement which has extended right across the bed: as the guides seemed + to ignore its existence, we named it the Kharábat Abá'l-Marú. Some of the + buildings had been on a large scale, and one square measured twenty yards. + Here the peculiarity was the careful mining of a granitic hillock on the + southern bank. The whole vein of Negro quartz had been cut out of three + sides, leaving caves that simulated catacombs. Further west another + excavation in the same kind of rock was probably the town-quarry. The two + lieutenants were directed next morning to survey this place, and also a + second ruin and reef reported to be found on the left bank, a little below + camp. + </p> + <p> + We have now seen, lying within short distances, three several + quartz-fields, known as—Marwah, "the single Place or Hill of Maú'" + (quartz); Marwát, "the Places of Quartz;" and Abá'l-Marú, the "Father of + Quartz;" not to speak of a Nakb Abú Marwah<a href="#linknote-83" + name="linknoteref-83" id="linknoteref-83"><small>83</small></a> further + north. The conclusion forced itself upon me that the name of the + celebrated Arab mine Zú'l Marwah or El-Marwah, the more ancient (Mochura), + which Ptolemy places in north lat. 24° 30', applied to the whole district + in South Midian, and then came to denote the chief place and centre of + work. To judge by the extent of the ruins, and the signs of labour, this + focus was at Umm el-Karáyát (the "Mother of the Villages"), which, as has + been shown, is surrounded by a multitude of miner-towns and ateliers. And + the produce of the "diggings" would naturally gravitate to El-Badá, the + great commercial station upon the Nabathæan "Overland." + </p> + <p> + Thus El-Marwah would signify "the Place of Marú," or "Quartz-land," even + as Ophir means "Red Land." A reviewer of my first book on Midian objects + to the latter derivation; as Seetzen, among others, has conclusively shown + that Ophir, the true translation of which is ‘riches,' is to be looked for + in Southern Arabia." Connu! But I question the "true translation;" and, + whilst owning that one of the Ophirs or "Red Lands" lay in the modern + Yemen, somewhere between Sheba (Sabá) and Havilah (Khaulán), I see no + reason for concluding that this was the only Ophir. Had it been a single + large emporium on the Red Sea, which collected the produce of Arabia and + the exports of India and of West Africa, the traditional site could hardly + have escaped the notice of the inquiring Arabian geographers of our Middle + Ages. The ruins of a port would have been found, and we should not be + compelled theoretically to postulate its existence. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * * * * * * +</pre> + <p> + And now nothing remained but to escape as quickly as possible from the + ugly Wady Mismáh; with its violent, dusty wester, or sea-breeze, and its + sun-glare which, reflected and reverberated by the quartz, burned the + grass and made the trees resemble standing timber. + </p> + <p> + April 10th saw the last of our marches, a hurry back to the stable, a + sauve qui peut. The camel-men, reckless of orders, began to load and to + slip away shortly after midnight. Ali Marie, who, as usual, had lost his + head, when ordered to enjoin silence gave the vain and vague direction, + "Tell the Arabs to tell the camels not to make so much noise." Even the + bugler sounded the "general" of his own accord; and the mules, now become + painfully intelligent, walked as if they knew themselves to be walking + homewards. Our last stage lay over the upper skirts of the maritime plain + which has already been noticed. At 10.15 am., after riding five hours and + thirty minutes (= seventeen miles), we found ourselves once more upon the + seaboard. Our kind host, Captain Hasan Bey, came to meet us in his gig: + the quarter-deck had been dressed with flags, as for a ball; and before + twelve bells struck, we had applied ourselves to an excellent breakfast in + the gun-room of our old favourite, the Sinnár. The auspicious day of + course ended with a fantasia. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0011" id="link2H_4_0011"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Résumé of Our Last Journey. + </h2> + <p> + We had left the Sharm Yáhárr on March 21st, and returned to it on April + 13th; a total of twenty-four days. Our actual march through South Midian, + which had lasted thirteen days (March 29—April 10), described a + semicircle with El-Wijh about the middle of the chord. The length is + represented by 170 miles in round numbers: as usual, this does not include + the various offsets and the by-paths explored by the members; nor do the + voyages to El-Wijh and El-Haurá, going and coming, figure in the line of + route. The camels varied from fifty-eight to sixty-four, when specimens + were forwarded to the harbour-town. The expenditure amounted to£92 13s., + including pay and "bakhshísh" to the Baliyy Shaykhs, but not including our + friends the Sayyid, Furayj, and the Wakíl Mohammed Shahádah. + </p> + <p> + This southern region differs essentially from the northern, which was + twice visited, and which occupied us two months, mostly wasted. Had we + known what we do now, I should have begun with the south, and should have + devoted to it the greater part of our time. Both are essentially mining + countries; but, whilst the section near Egypt preserves few traces of the + miner, here we find the country carefully and conscientiously worked. The + whole eastern counterslope of the outliers that project from the + Ghát-section known as the mountains of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah, is one vast + outcrop of quartz. The parallelogram between north lat. 26 degrees, + including the mouth of the Wady Hamz, and north lat. 27°, which runs some + fifteen miles north of the Badá plain, would form a Southern Grant, + sufficiently large to be divided and subdivided as soon as judged + advisable. + </p> + <p> + If the characteristics of North Midian (Madyan Proper) are its + argentiferous, and especially its cupriferous ores, South Midian worked + chiefly gold and silver, both metals being mentioned by the mediaeval + geographers of Arabia. Free gold in paillettes was noticed by the + Expedition in the micaceous schists veining the quartz, and in the + chalcedony which parts the granite from the gneiss. The argentiferous + Negro quartz everywhere abounds, and near the ruins of Badá lie strews of + spalled "Marú," each fragment showing its little block of pure lead. + Saltpetre is plentiful, and a third "Sulphur hill" rises from the maritime + plain north of the Wady Hamz. + </p> + <p> + The principal ruins and ateliers number five; these, beginning from the + north, are the Umm el-Karáyát, the Umm el-Haráb, the Bújat-Badá, the + Kharábat Abá'l-Marú, and the old Nabathean port, E1-Haurá. Amongst them is + not included the gem of our discovery, the classical shrine, known as Gasr + Gurayyim Sa'íd, nor the minor ateliers, El-Kubbah, Abá'l-Gezáz, and the + remains upon the Marwát ridge. Good work was done by the Egyptian + Staff-officers in surveying the fine harbour of El-Dumayghah, so well + fitted as a refuge for pilgrim-ships when doing quarantine; and I venture + upon recommending, to the English and Egyptian Governments, my remarks + concerning the advisability of at once re-transferring the station to + El-Wijh. It is now at Tor; and, as has been said, it forms a standing + menace, not only to the Nile Valley, but to the whole of Europe. + </p> + <p> + Whilst abounding in wood, the Southern Country is not so well watered as + are Central and Northern Midian On the other hand, the tenants, confined + to the Baliyy tribe, with a few scatters of the despised Hutaym, are + milder and more tractable than the Huwaytát. As I have remarked, they are + of ancient strain, and they still conserve the instincts of their + predecessors, or their forefathers, the old mining race. It will be + necessary to defend them against the raids and incursions of the Juhaynah, + or "Sons of Dogs," who border upon them to the south, and from the + Alaydán-‘Anezah to the south-east; but nothing would be easier than to + come to terms with the respective Shaykhs. And the sooner we explore the + Jaww, or sandstone region in the interior, with its adjacent "Harrahs," + the better for geography and, perhaps not less, for mineralogy. The great + ruins of Madáin Sálih upon the Wady Hamz still, I repeat, await the + discoverer. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_CONC" id="link2H_CONC"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Conclusion. + </h2> + <p> + The next day saw us at El-Wijh, dispensing pay and "bakhshísh" to the + companions of our Desert march; and shipping the men and mules, with the + material collected during the southern journey. The venerable Shaykh + ‘Afnán and his Baliyy were not difficult to deal with; and they went their + way homewards fully satisfied. We exchanged a friendly adieu, or rather an + au revoir, with our excellent travelling companion, Mohammed Shahádah; and + I expressed my sincere hopes to find him, at no distant time, governor of + the restored Quarantine-station. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of April 12th we set out betimes, and anchored for the + night in one of the snug bays of Jebel Nu'man. The next day placed us at + the Sharm Yáhárr, where the process of general distribution happily ended. + Here the final parting took place with the gallant companions of our four + months' travel. Shaykh Furayj, delighted with the gift, in addition to his + pay, of a Styrian skean-dhu and an Austrian Werndl-carbine, at once set + off to rejoin the tribe up-country; while the Sayyid steadfastly stayed + with us to the last. These men had become our friends; and my sorrow at + leaving them was softened only by the prospect of presently seeing them + again. + </p> + <p> + Immediately after my return to Cairo I strongly recommended the Sayyid for + promotion, in these words:—"First and foremost is the Sayyid ‘Abd + el-Rahím, the head of a noble family, settled for generations at + El-Muwayláh, where he is now Kátib (‘accountant') to the Fort. He knows + thoroughly the whole Land of Midian; he is loved and respected by all the + Arabs, and both he and his are devoted to the Government of your Highness. + Evidently it would be advantageous to promote such a man to the post of + governor of the place—a post which will presently become of high + importance, and which is actually held by an old officer, almost + bed-ridden. + </p> + <p> + "The second is Shaykh Mohammed Shahádah, of El-Wijh, a man of family and + position; known far and wide, and made generally popular by his generous + and charitable actions. He was formerly Wakíl, or ‘agent,' to the Fort + el-Wijh, until that office was abolished. The port will presently have its + custom-house; and I propose forwarding to her Britannic Majesty's + Government my notes upon the subject of the Quarantine-station, which has + imprudently been transferred from Arabia to Tor, in the Sinaitic + Peninsula. Meanwhile it would, I venture to suggest, be most advantageous + if Mohammed Shahádah were named governor of his native place." + </p> + <p> + The Expedition, in its urgent desire to return northwards, was not + seconded by weather. Despite an ugly gale, the Sinnár boldly attempted + giving the slip to Arabia on April 16th, but she was beaten back before + she reached El-Muwaylah. After another stormy day, we again got up steam; + and, fighting hard against adverse winds and waves, greatly to the + distress of the unfortunate mules and gazelles, we reached Suez on April + 20th. + </p> + <p> + At Suez my wife had been awaiting me for long weeks, preferring the + simplicity of the Desert to the complex life of Cairo. Some delay was + again necessary in order to telegraph our arrival, to apply for a special + train, and to sort and pack in the travelling-cases our twenty-five tons + of specimens. As often happens, the return to civilization was in nowise + cheery. Everything seemed to go wrong. For instance, the Dragoman + despatched to town from the New Docks in order to lay in certain comforts, + such as beef and beer, prudently laid out the coin in a brand-new + travelling suit intended for his own service. Such an apology for a dinner + had not been seen during the last four months of wild travel—unpleasant + when guests have been bidden to a feast! The night at the Docks, also, was + a trifle mortuary, over-silent and tranquil: all hands, officers and men, + who could not get leave to sleep ashore, simply took leave—I believe + myself to have been for a time both captain and crew of the Sinnár. And, + lastly, we heard that both our dog-companions, Juno and Páijí, had died of + some canine epidemic. + </p> + <p> + The next day ended our halt at Suez, with visits to slop-shops and a + general discussion of choppes. The old hotel, under the charge of Mr. and + Mrs. Adams, had greatly improved by the "elimination" of the offensive + Hindi element; and my old friends of a quarter-century's standing received + me with all their wonted heartiness. Sa'íd Bey was still a Bey, but none + the less jovial and genial; Captain Ali Bey, who had commanded the Sinnár, + was now acting commodore; and my only regret was having again missed + Colonel Gordon (Pasha). + </p> + <p> + April 22nd convinced us that, even in these prosaic regions, our + misadventures and accidents had not reached their fated end. A special + train had been organized by Hanafi Effendi for eight a.m. About ten miles + from Suez one of the third-class carriages began "running hot;" and, + before we could dismount, the axle-box of a truck became a young Vesuvius + in the matter of vomiting smoke. I ordered the driver, who was driving + furiously, to make half speed; but even with this precaution there were + sundry stoppages; and at the Naffíshah station, where my Bolognese + acquaintances still throve, we could not be supplied with a change of + "rolling-stock." About Tell el-Kabír, the brake-van also waxed unsafely + warm; but it reached Zagázig without developing more caloric. Briefly, we + caught fire three times in one morning. + </p> + <p> + These accidents must always be expected, where spare carriages are placed + for months upon sidings to become tinder in the sun; and where the cracks + and crevices of the woodwork fill up with the silicious sand of the + Desert, an admirable succedaneum for flint and steel. One consolation, + however, remained to us: the Dragoman, brand-new clothes and all, was left + behind at Suez. His last chef d'œuvre of blundering has already been + noticed<a href="#linknote-84" name="linknoteref-84" id="linknoteref-84"><small>84</small></a>—the + barrel of Midianitish oysters sent to Admiral M'Killop (Pasha) had been so + carelessly headed up, and so carefully turned topsy-turvy, that the result + was, to use my friend's words, they could be nosed from the half-way + station. The "Kyrios" had probably passed a Bacchanalian night with his + Hellenic friends, and he subsequently made act of presence at Cairo with a + very British-looking black eye. His accident at Suez was a bit of + "poetical justice," which almost convinced one of the "moral government." + </p> + <p> + A succulent breakfast à la fourchette, in the charming garden of our + friend M. Vetter, of Zagázig, duly discussed, we again went "on board," + amusing the lookers-on by our naive enjoyment of the Nile-valley: they had + not been in Arabia, and they found the "emerald-green" dusty and yellow. + We reached Cairo at 5.30 p.m. More troubles! Ten minutes after arrival we + found ourselves in possession, in sole charge of the gare. The train was + loaded with Government property, officers, soldiers and escort, mules, + boxes and bags of specimens whose collecting had cost money. Yet + station-master, agent, and employés at once went their ways, declining + even to show the room allotted to our goods, although a telegram from the + railway authorities had advised me that one had been made ready. The + assistant-agent, when at last hunted up, declared, before vanishing once + more, that the porters for whom we applied were busy loading cotton, and + that we must e'en do the best we could for ourselves. So the waggons were + shunted and unloaded by their tenants, and the minerals were deposited + under a kind of shed whose key was not forthcoming. We failed to find even + a light, till the local train from Suez was announced; and, when it began + whistling, the officials, who had returned like rats from their holes, + gave us peremptory directions to shunt again. This time, however, I had + the game in my hands; and replied by taking due precautions against being + turned out. + </p> + <p> + At first the soldier-escort worked as well as could be expected; but the + numbers fell off every quarter of an hour, till we were left with a very + select party; the only recipients, by-the-by, of "bakhshísh." The + Sub-Lieutenant Mohammed Effendi mounted a donkey the moment he stepped out + of the R.R. carriage; and, utterly disregarding so vexatious a frivolity + as asking leave, rode off to his home at Torah. His example was followed + by the Sergeant Mabrúk ‘Awaz. And yet both these men had the impudence to + call upon me at the hotel, and to apply for especial Shahádahs, or + "testimonials" of good conduct. In short, we were detained at the station + for three mortal hours, working with our own hands. If this be a fair + specimen of European management in Egypt, and I am told that it has now + become worse, much worse in every way, the sooner we return to Egyptian + mismanagement the better. The latter is, at any rate, cheap and civil. + </p> + <p> + On the next day the Viceroy graciously sent his junior Master of + Ceremonies, his Excellency Tonino Bey, to welcome me back; and I was at + once honoured with audiences at the Khedivial Palace, ‘Abidin, and by + Prince Husayn Kámil Pasha at Gizah (Jízah). The Khediv was pleased to + express satisfaction with my past exertions, and ordered several measures + to be carried out at once. Amongst them was a little exhibition of + mineralogy and archaeology, maps and plans, sketches and croquis, at the + Hippodrome. + </p> + <p> + I need hardly say that his Highness at once saw the gist of the matter. + Many concessions had been applied for, even from Australia; but the + Viceroy determined that, before any could be granted, careful analyses of + the specimens must be made, at his Highness's private expense, in London. + M. Ferdinand de Lesseps, of world-wide fame, volunteered, in the most + friendly way, to submit échantillons of the rocks to the Parisian Académie + des Sciences, of which he is a distinguished member. The Viceroy was also + pleased spontaneously to remind me of, and to renew, the verbal promise + made upon my return from the first Expedition to Midian; namely, that I + should be honoured with a concession, or that a royalty of five per cent. + on the general produce of the mines should be the reward of discovery. The + young Minister of Finance, Prince Husayn Kámil Pasha, after courteously + congratulating me upon the successful result of our labours, put as usual + the most pertinent of questions. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +The opening of our little Exposition was delayed by sundry +difficulties. The Greek Easter set in with its usual severity +about later April. A general shop-shutting, a carouse unlimited, +catholic, universal; and, despite stringent police orders, a +bombardment of the town by squibs and crackers, were the +principal features of the fête. The 29th was the classical Shamm +el-Nasin, or "the Smelling of the Zephyr," a local May-day +religiously kept with utter idleness. Mr. W. E. Hayns and I +utilized it by going a flint-hunting on the left bank of the +Nile.<a href="#linknote-85" name="linknoteref-85" id="linknoteref-85">85</a> Then the terrible "May coupon" gave immense trouble +and annoyance to the rulers; who, so far from making merry with +the lieges, had to work in person between five a.m. and midnight. +After such exertion as this, rest was of course necessary. +Subsequently, a grand review monopolized one day; another was +spent by the Court in despatching the young Prince Fu'ád to +Switzerland; and yet another was given to his Highness the Prince +Hasan Pasha, Commander-in-Chief of the Egyptian auxiliaries, who, +on the conclusion of the war, had returned to Cairo en route for +Europe. + + Briefly, it was not before May 9th that the Khediv, accompanied +by the Prince héritier, Taufík Pasha, found leisure personally to +open the Exhibition—the first, by-the-by, ever honoured with the +Viceregal presence. Despite all my efforts, the rooms, which +should have been kept clear till his Highness had passed through, +were crowded at an early hour. The maps prepared at the Citadel +by Lieutenants Amir and Yusuf, with the aid of three extra hands, +were very imperfect, half finished at the last moment, and +abounding in such atrocities as "Ouorh" for "El-Wijh." The +engineer, M. Marie, when asked aloud, and with all publicity, by +the Khediv whether he was sure that such and such specimens +contained gold, shirked a direct reply, evasively declaring that +"Midian is a fine mining country." He had pointed out to me the +precious metal during our exploration of Umm el-Karáyat; but such +is the wretched result of "knowing the people," instead of +telling the truth like a man. And one of the many jealous, a mild +Mephisto., whispered in the Viceregal ear, "There can't be much +gold there, or ces messieurs would have said more about it." +</pre> + <p> + Despite these small contretemps the Exhibition<a href="#linknote-86" + name="linknoteref-86" id="linknoteref-86"><small>86</small></a> was + pronounced a success, and served, as such things do, for a nine days' + wonder. Several travellers from England and Australia took the opportunity + of inspecting the rocks; and I was much encouraged to find the general + opinion so highly favourable. Locally there were dissidents, but this must + be expected where interests differ. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile his Highness kept me hard at work. I was directed to draw up a + concise general description of the province; to report upon the political + and other measures by which the Midian country would be benefited; and, + lastly, to suggest the means which, in my humble opinion, were best + calculated for successfully working the mines. In former days the Viceroy + would at once have undertaken the task, and probably would have sent down + five thousand men to open the diggings. Now, however, the endless trickery + of European adventurers and speculators has made a wise precaution + absolutely necessary. During the last audience, his Highness ably and + lucidly resumed the history of the past measures, and the steps which he + proposed for the future. The first Khedivial Expedition had been simply + one of exploration, sent to ascertain whether the precious metals really + existed. The second was intrusted with the charge of laying down the + probable limits of the mining formation; and of bringing back varied + specimens, in quantities sufficient for scientific analysis. The third and + next step would be to organize a Compagnie de Recherche, with the object + of beginning a serious exploitation. The future thus settled, I was kindly + and courteously dismissed, with a desire that I should take charge of the + specimens, and personally superintend the work of assaying. Mr. Charles + Clarke received pay and leave for three months, and was ordered to convey + the boxes by "long sea." + </p> + <p> + On May 10th we left Cairo in company with our friend Mr. Garwood, C.E. At + Alexandria a great repose fell upon my spirit; it was like gliding into a + smooth port after a storm at sea. All the petty troubles and worries of + Cairo; the cancans, the intrigues, the silly reports of the envious and + the jealous, with the buzz and sting of mosquitoes; the weary waiting; the + visits of "friends" whose main object in life seemed to be tuer le ver; + and the exigencies of my late fellow-travellers, who, after liberal pay + and free living for four months, seemed determined to quarter themselves + upon the Egyptian Government for the rest of their natural lives;—all + these small cares, not the less annoying because they were small, + disappeared like magic at the first glimpse of blue water. I had barely + time to pass an afternoon at Ramleh, "the Sand-heap," with an intimate of + twenty-five years' standing, Hartley John Gisborne, an old servant of the + Egyptian "Crown," for whom new men and new measures have, I regret to see, + made the valley of the Nile no longer habitable. + </p> + <p> + The next Sunday placed us on board the Austro-Hungarian Lloyd's + screw-steamer Austria (Capitano Rossol). As usual, the commander and + officers did all they could to make their voyagers comfortable; the + Company did the contrary. At this spring season, true, the migratory host + of unfeathered bipeds crowds northwards; even as in autumn it accompanies + the birds southwards. But when berths are full, passengers should be + refused; and if the commercial director prefers dead to live goods, + travellers should be duly warned. The accommodation would have been + tolerable in a second-class or third-class English steamer, which charges + fifteen shillings to a sovereign per diem; here, however, we were paying + between £2 and £3. + </p> + <p> + The Alexandrian agent had been asked to lodge us decently. My wife found + herself in a cabin occupied by two nurses. I was placed in a manner of + omnibus, a loose box for six, of whom one was an Armenian and two were + Circassians from Daghistán—good men enough, but not pleasant as + bedroom fellows. No extra service had been engaged for an extra cargo of + seventy-two; that is, forty-two first, and thirty second class. There were + only three stewards, including the stewardess; and the sick were left to + serve themselves. At least half a dozen were required; and, in such places + as Trieste and Alexandria, a large staff of cooks and waiters can always + be engaged in a few hours. On board any English ship some of the smartest + and handiest seamen would have been converted into temporary attendants—here + no one seemed to think of a proceeding so far out of the usual way. There + was only one, instead of three or four cooks; and the unfortunate had to + fill a total of one hundred and thirty-five mouths, the crew included, + three times a day. The other tenant of the close and wretched little + galley lay sick with spotted typhus; and, after barbarous neglect, he died + on the day following our arrival at Trieste—I did not hear that the + surgeon of the screw-steamer Austria had met with his deserts by summary + dismissal from the service. The Austro-Hungarian Lloyd's was once famed + for good living; over-economy and high dividends have now made the cuisine + worse than the cheapest of tables d'hôte. Provisions as well as their + preparation were so bad that Sefer Pasha, an invalid, confined himself to + a diet of potatoes and eggs. + </p> + <p> + Add the quasi-impossibility of obtaining a bath; the uncleanliness of the + offices; the hard narrowness of the sofas; the small basins, or rather + bowls, and the tiny towels like napkins; the clamorous pets of the small + fry, cats and dogs; the crowding of second-class passengers on the + quarter-deck; and the noise of the Armenian lady beating her maid, who + objected to the process in truly dreadful language: throw in an engine + which, despite the efforts of her energetic English engineer, Mr. + Wilkinson, managed only nine instead of eleven and a half knots an hour; + an ugly north-easter off Cape Matapan, bringing tropical downfalls of + rain; and a muggy Scirocco off Istria, when we breathed almost as much + water as air: and I think that the short entry in my journal, "horridly + uncomfortable," was to a certain extent justified by the conduct of the + poor Austria. Yet the Austro-Hungarian Lloyd's boasts a dividend of seven + per cent. She shall see no more of my money: until she mend her ways I + shall prefer the Genoese Rubattino. + </p> + <p> + But, as the Persian poet has it, Ín níz bug'zared—"Even these things + pass away." At Corfu we were cheered by once more meeting Sir Charles + Sebright, who looked hale and hearty as of yore. When we reached Trieste, + his Excellency Baron Pino von Friendenthall, accompanied by the most + amiable of "better halves," came off in his galley, happily unconscious of + typhus; and carried us away without the usual troubles and delays of + landing in harbour bumboats. Friendly faces smiled a welcome; and, after + an absence of some seven months, I found myself once more in the good town + which has given us a home during the last five years. + </p> + <p> + At Trieste I was delayed for some time, awaiting the report that the + specimens collected by the Expedition had arrived at their destination, + the warehouses of the London Docks. Mr. Clarke met with obstacles at Suez; + and, consequently, did not reach England till June 20th, after + twenty-three rough days. As her Majesty's Foreign Office had been pleased + to accord me two months of leave to England, I determined to make the + voyage by "long sea." Both suffering from the same complaint, want of rest + and of roast-beef, as opposed to rosbif, we resolved to ship on board the + English steamer Hecla, of the B. and N. A. R. M. S. P. Company, the old + Cunard line, famous for never having lost a life, a ship, or a letter. We + left Trieste on July 7, 1878, in charge of our excellent commander, + Captain James Brown; and, after a cruise of twenty days, viâ Venice, + Palermo, and Gibraltar—a comfortable, cheery, hygienic cruise in + charming weather over summer seas—we found ourselves once more (July + 26th) in the city of the Liver. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Appendix I. + + DATES OF THE THREE JOURNEYS (Northern, Central, and Southern) + made by the Second Khedivial Expedition. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + First Journey. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (December 19, 1877, to February 13, 1878.) + + December 6, 1877, left Cairo. + 10 1877, left Suez. + 14 1877, reached El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr) + on the "Day of 'Arafát." +</pre> + <p> + </p> + <hr /> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> </pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + December 19, 1877, landed at El-Muwaylah. + 21 1877, marched upon Wady Tiryam. + 22 1877, marched upon Wady Sharmá. + 23 1877, marched upon Jebel el-Abyaz. + 30 1877, returned to Wady Sharmá. + January 7, 1878, marched upon 'Aynúnah. + 8 1878, halted at 'Aynúnah. + 9 1878, halted at Wady el-'Usaylah. + 10 1878, reached Magháir Shu'ayb. + 25 1878, marched upon Makná. + February 3 1878, embarked for the Marsá Dahab in the + Sinaitic Peninsula. + 4 1878, to the anchorage of El-Nuwaybi'. + 5 1878, anchored at Pharaoh's Island. + 6 1878, halted at Pharaoh's Island. + 7 1878, steamed to El-'Akabah town. + 8 1878, ran down Gulf el-'Akabah. + 9 1878, anchored under Tírán Island. + 10 1878, halted at Tírán Island. + February 11, 1878, ran from wrecking to Sináfir + Island. + 12 1878, halted at Sinafir Island. + 13 1878, returned to El-Muwaylah (Sharm + Yáhárr). +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Second Journey. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (February 17, 1878, to March 8,1878.) + + February 17, 1878 walked to ruins of Abú Hawáwít. + 18 ,, marched upon the Safh Jebel Malíh in the + Wady Surr. + 19 ,, camped in the Sayl Wady el-Jimm. + 20 ,, marched upon El-Nagwah. + 21 ,, reached the head of the Wady Sadr. + 23 ,, camped below the Col, "El-Khuraytah." + 24 ,, reached the Hismá. + 25 ,, descended the two Passes and camped in + the "Jayb el-Khuraytah." + 26 ,, marched upon the Majrá el-Ruways. + 27 ,, ,, ,, ,, Wady Damah. + 28 ,, ,, ,, ,, ruins of Shuwák. + March 1 ,, halted at the ruins of Shuwák. + 2 ,, visited the ruins of Shaghab and camped + at the Majrá el-Wághir. + 3 ,, visited the ruins El-Khandakí and camped + at the plain El-Kutayyifah. + 4 ,, marched down the Wady Salmá and camped + at the Má el-Badíah. + 5 ,, reached Zibá town. + 6 ,, halted at Zibá. + 7 ,, visited the turquoise-diggings of Zibá + and camped at the Máyat el-Ghál. + 8 ,, returned to El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr). +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Complementary Excursion to the Shárr Mountain. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + March 13, 1878, camped in the Wady el-Káimah. + 14 ,, camped in the Wady el-Kusayb. + 15 ,, camped in the Safhat el-Wu'ayrah. + 16 ,, up the Shárr. + 17 ,, camped in the Wady Kuwayd. + 18 ,, returned to El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr). +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + THIRD JOURNEY. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + March 21, 1878, to April 10, 1878.) + + March 21, 1878, left Sharm Yáhárr and made the + Sharm Dumayghah. + 22 ,, halted at El-Dumayghah. + 23 ,, anchored in harbour of El-Wijh. + 24 ,, set out in the Sinnár southwards. + 25 ,, anchored at El-Haurá. + 26 ,, halted at El-Haurá. + + (On March 26th MM. Marie and Philipin marched from El-Wijh to the + Wady Hamz, and rejoined head-quarters on the 28th.) + + March 27, 1878 returned to El-Wijh. + 29 ,, left El-Wijh and camped at inner fort. + 30 ,, to Umm el-Karáyát (ruins and mine). + 31 ,, visited ruins of El-Kubbah; camped in + Wady Dasnah. + April 1, 1878 to Umm el-Haráb (ruins and mine). + 2 ,, camped in the Wady Abá'l-Gezáz. + 3 ,, camped in the plain of Badá. + 4 ,, halted at the plain of Badá. + 5 ,, camped at the Ayn el-Kurr. + 6 ,, camped in the Wady Laylah. + 7 ,, camped in the Wady Abá'l-'Ajáj. + 8 ,, to the ruins of the Gasr Gurayyim Sa'íd + (classical temple). + 9 ,, to the Abá'l-Marú (Marwah mine). + 1O ,, return to El-Wijh. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + THE RETURN TO EGYPT. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + April 12, 1878 steamed northwards to Nu'man Island. + 13 ,, reached El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr). + 18 ,, left El-Muwaylah, night at sea. + 19 ,, in Gulf of Suez. + 20 ,, reached Suez. + 22 ,, reached Cairo. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Appendix II. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + EXPENSES OF THE EXPEDITION TO MIDIAN, commanded by Captain R. F. + Burton, H.B.M. Consul, Trieste. + + Cairo, November 1, 1877. + + £ s. d. + Sum received from Egyptian Finance 1977 12 0 + + Amounts Paid out by Order of Captain Burton. £ s. d. + + Hotel bills for five persons (thirty-six days) 149 6 9 + Advanced to members of Expedition up to date + (May 3rd)<a href="#linknote-87" name="linknoteref-87" id="linknoteref-87">87</a> 74 12 3 + Cost of provisions for journey to Midian, + fourteen persons 314 8 9 + Cost of tools, chemicals, instruments, + canteen, etc. 185 19 0 + Medicine chest from Dr. Lowe 10 10 0 + + Journey to Suez from Cairo, December 6th, 1878:— + Hotel bill for eleven persons (three days) 33 3 6 + Tobacco for presents to Bedawin 6 8 0 + Sundries 13 10 6 + Telegrams and post service 3 9 0 + __________________ + £791 7 9 + + El-Muwaylah, December 16th, to return, February 13th:— + Journey to north<a href="#linknote-88" name="linknoteref-88" + id="linknoteref-88">88</a> 316 14 3 + Post service 14 8 0 + Cost of sheep<a href="#linknote-89" name="linknoteref-89" + id="linknoteref-89">89</a> 32 14 0 + Sundries<a href="#linknote-90" name="linknoteref-90" id="linknoteref-90">90</a> 20 7 7 + Five foot-soldiers' salaries 7 4 0 + + Eastern journey to the Hismá<a href="#linknote-91" name="linknoteref-91" + id="linknoteref-91">91</a> 187 6 6 + Post service 3 8 0 + Cost of sheep<a href="#linknote-92" name="linknoteref-92" id="linknoteref-92">92</a> 11 19 0 + Sundries 5 11 0 + Sambúk from Suez, as per contract 9 4 0 + Soldiers from fort 3 0 0 + + Journey to Shárr<a href="#linknote-93" name="linknoteref-93" + id="linknoteref-93">93</a> 44 11 6 + Cost of sheep<a href="#linknote-94" name="linknoteref-94" id="linknoteref-94">94</a> 3 4 0 + Thirty pairs of boots for soldiers<a href="#linknote-95" name="linknoteref-95" + id="linknoteref-95">95</a> 6 0 0 + Sundries 1 0 0 + Journey to south<a href="#linknote-96" name="linknoteref-96" + id="linknoteref-96">96</a> 92 13 0 + Cost of sheep<a href="#linknote-97" name="linknoteref-97" id="linknoteref-97">97</a> 15 16 0 + Post service 2 0 0 + Sundries<a href="#linknote-98" name="linknoteref-98" id="linknoteref-98">98</a> 18 3 6 + Special payments:— + Sayyid 'Abd el-Rahím Effendi 16 0 0 + Bukhayt 1 12 0 + Husayn 1 12 0 + Shaykh Furayj 4 0 0 + Shaykh Furayj salary for twenty-five days 5 0 0 + Expenses at Suez, unloading, etc., and hotel bills + for ten persons 39 17 0 + Post and telegrams 1 16 0 + Suez to Cairo 1 12 6 + _________________ + £1658 1 7 + + Expenses at Cairo up to date May 5, 1878:— + Unloading, cartage, and preparing for Exhibition 24 5 5 + Salaries of persons engaged from Cairo and Muwaylah:— + Anton Dimitri, Giorgi, and Petro<a href="#linknote-99" name="linknoteref-99" + id="linknoteref-99">99</a> 93 17 6 + Magazine-man at El-Muwaylah<a href="#linknote-100" name="linknoteref-100" + id="linknoteref-100">100</a> 6 8 0 + Sais from Suez, engaged through governor<a href="#linknote-101" + name="linknoteref-101" id="linknoteref-101">101</a> 9 0 0 + Mr. Clarke's salary<a href="#linknote-102" name="linknoteref-102" + id="linknoteref-102">102</a> 180 0 0 + _________________ + £1971 12 6 + In hand for small expenses not yet sent in + for payment 5 19 6 + _________________ + £1977 12 0 + _________________ + Sent in May 6, 1878. + + (Signed) CHAS. CLARKE. + (Countersigned) RICHARD F. BURTON. + Commanding Expedition. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Appendix III. + PRESERVED PROVISIONS AND OTHER STORES, supplied by Messrs. + Voltéra Bros., of the Ezbekiyyah, Cairo. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + £ s. d. + 95 okes potatoes, at 5d. 1 19 7 + 670 okes best rice, at 8 1/2d. 23 14 7 + 152 okes sugar, at 11 1/2d. per kilog. 8 19 6 1/2 + 60 okes ground coffee, at 4s. 6d. 13 10 0 + 120 tins milk, at 14s. 7 0 0 + 120 bottles pickles 6 0 0 + 15 tins butter (of 1 lb.), at 2s. 6d. 1 17 6 + 60 okes oil, at 2s. 6d. 7 10 0 + 6 heads English cheese (60 1/4 lbs.) at 1s. 5d. 4 10 4 1/2 + 160 okes dried French beans, at 10d. 6 13 4 + 60 okes maccaroni and paste 3 0 0 + 54 okes onions, at 7d. 1 11 6 + 10 okes garlic, at 10d. 0 8 4 + 50 packets candles 2 10 0 + 5 okes cavendish tobacco, at 12s. 3 0 0 + 6 okes tobacco (Turkish), at 24s. 7 4 0 + 120 bottles soda-water, at 8d. per dozen 4 0 0 + 20 bottles syrups, at 2s. 2 0 0 + 50 bottles vinegar 2 10 0 + 10 dozen beer, at 11s. 5 10 0 + 15 bars soap, at 1s. 6d. 1 2 6 + 20 pots mustard, at 1s. 6d. 1 10 0 + 6 bottles curry, at 1s. 6d. 0 9 0 + 20 lbs. table raisins 0 16 0 + 10 large bottles pepper, at 2s. 1 0 0 + _________________ + £118 6 3 + + 10 small packets salt, at 1s. 0 10 0 + 5 large packets salt at 1s. 6d. 0 7 6 + 6 bottles sauces, at s. 12d. 0 7 0 + 12 bottles lime-juice, at 2s. 6d. 1 10 0 + 12 umbrellas, at 4s. 2 8 0 + 12 bottles blacking, at 1s. + (for tracing inscriptions) 0 12 0 + 6 lanterns, at 1s. 6d. 0 9 0 + 12 large tins sardines, at 1s. 6d. 0 18 0 + 2 corkscrews, at 1s. 3d. 0 2 6 + 2 opening knives 0 2 0 + 101 1/4 okes of biscuits, at 1s. 5 1 3 + 1 case Mumm's champagne 4 5 0 + 1 case cognac, XX 2 8 0 + 1 case whisky 1 16 0 + 1 tin plum-pudding 0 2 6 + 10 packets matches, at 1s. 2d. 0 11 8 + 8 barrels flour, at L3 24 0 0 + 4 okes Curani (Kora'ni) tobacco, at 16s. 3 4 0 + 30 lbs. tea, at 4s. 6 0 0 + 24 tins green peas, at 1s. 1 4 0 + 18 tins haricots verts, at 1s. 0 18 0 + 18 tins haricots flageolets, at 1s. 0 18 0 + 18 tins champignons, at 1s. 2d. 1 1 0 + 18 tins macedoine, at 1s. 0 18 0 + 8 tins carrots, at 1s. 0 8 0 + 16 tins asparagus (large), at 3s. 2 8 0 + 53 1/2 lbs. ham, at 1s. 6d. 4 0 3 + 100 bottles 'Ráki, at 2s. 10 0 0 + 100 tins meats, at 1s. 6d. 7 10 0 + 4 dozen pints beer, at 8s. 1 12 0 + 7 empty tins for coffee, at 1s. 6d. 0 10 6 + 17 empty bags 0 14 2 + 4 okes packing rope, at 2s. 0 8 0 + 1/4 okes isinglass 0 3 0 + 2 bottles spices 0 2 0 + 10 nutmegs 0 1 0 + _________________ + £205 16 7 + + £ s. d. + 1 packet starch 0 3 0 + 1 oke twine 0 2 6 + 2 okes nails, at 10d. 0 1 8 + 1 box cigarette papers 0 8 0 + Kitchen utensils 0 13 6 + Empty bags 0 2 0 + Packing 2 10 0 + _________________ + Total £209 17 3 + _________________ +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Additional Supplies. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + £ s. d. + 50 bottles 'Ráki, at 2s. 5 0 0 + 95 okes potatoes, at 5d. 1 19 7 + 16 lbs. tea, at 4s. 3 4 0 + 50 tins preserved meats, at 1s. 6d. 3 15 0 + 20 tins green peas, at 1s. 1 0 0 + 12 tins haricots verts, at 1s. 0 12 0 + 12 tins champignon, at 1s. 2d. 0 14 0 + 6 tins first size asparagus, at 4s. 1 4 0 + 10 tins butter (1 lb.), at 2s. 8d 1 6 8 + 36 lbs. English cheese, at 1s. 6d. 2 14 0 + 60 okes maccaroni 3 0 0 + 126 okes onions, at 7d. 3 13 6 + 20 packets candles 1 0 0 + 50 boxes matches, at 1s. 2d. doz. 0 5 0 + 5 bars soap, at 1s. 6d. 0 7 6 + 12 bottles sauces, at 1s. 2d. 0 14 0 + 6 large bottles pepper, at 2s. 0 12 0 + 10 small packets salt, at 1s. 0 10 0 + 5 bottles lime-juice, at 2s. 6d. 0 12 6 + 108 okes hard biscuits, at 1s. 5 8 0 + 2 1/2 okes snuff 2 10 0 + 16 lbs. ginger-root, at 1s. 6d. 1 4 0 + 2 doz. whisky, at 36s. 3 12 0 + 2 doz. Martel's cognac 4 4 0 + 6 bottles absinthe, 2s. 6d. 0 15 0 + _________________ + £49 16 9 + + 5 bottles Oxley's essence of ginger, at 4s. 1 0 0 + 5 bottles pyretic saline, at 3s. 6d. 0 17 6 + 3 boxes seidlitz powders, at 2s. 0 6 0 + 1 bottle aconite 0 2 6 + 4 iron tea and coffee kettles 1 14 0 + 2 empty tins for tea 0 3 0 + Packing 1 10 0 + Carts, 2s.; railway fare, 82s. 4 4 0 + _________________ + Total £59 13 9 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + APPENDIX IV. + BOTANY AND LIST OF INSECTS. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + SECTION I. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + PROFESSOR D. OLIVER'S LIST OF DRIED PLANTS presented by Captain + Burton to the Herbarium, Royal Gardens, Kew, September, 1878. + + Núman North Middle South + Isle. Midian. Midian. Midian. + + Anastatica hierochuntina, L. + Kaff maryam ................ - I - - + Morettia parviflora, Boiss. + Eaten by cattle. Thagar; + Gaf'aa ..................... - - I I + Matthiola oxyceras, DC. + forma gracilis. Animals + eat. Hazá; Muhawwil ..... - - I - + Malcolmia aegyptiaca, Spr. + Animals eat. Tarbeh ...... - I - - + Zilla myagroides, F. Silla. + Camels eat. ............... - I - - + Biscutella Columnae, Ten .... - - I - + Diplotaxis Harra? Hárrah. + Eaten by cattle. .......... - - I - + Diplotaxis acris, Boiss. + (Moricandia crassifolia, + Gay) ...................... - I - - + Sisymbrium erysimoides, Desf. + Salih. Eaten by camels + and sheep ................. - I I I + Farsetia Burtonae, Oliv. + sp. nov. Ghurayrá ........ - I I - + Schimpera arabica, H. and + St. ....................... - I - - + Enarthrocarpus lyratus, F., + vel E. strangulatus, + Boiss ..................... - I - - + Capparis Sodada, Br. (Sodada + decidua, Forsk.). Tanzub. + Red berries eaten. ........ - - - I + Cleome chrysantha, Dcne. + Mashteh. Pounded and + drank for worms, etc. ..... - - - I + Cleome arabica, L. 'Ubaysd. + Eaten by animals. ......... - - - I + Papaver Decaisnei, H. and St. - - I - + Ochradenus baccatus, Del. + Gurzi. A large tree; + eaten by cattle ........... - I - I + Reseda (Caylusea) canescens, + L. Zanabán. Eaten by + cattle .................... - I I - + Reseda, an R. stenostachya(?), + Boiss. Khizám. Eaten by + animals ................... - I - - + Helianthemum Lippii, Pers. + Kazim. Cattle eat. ........ - - I - + Silene villosa, Forsk. + 'Abaysá. Too much coated + with sand to serve as + food for animals .......... - I - - + Gypsophila Rokejeka, Del. ... - - I - + Polycarpaea fragilis, Del. + Makr ...................... I - - - + Portulaca oleracea, L. ...... - - - I + Hibiscus micranthus, L. fil. + forma. Khusiyat Ráshid. + Eaten by animals. ......... - - I I + Abutilon fruticosum, G. and + P. (Sida denticulata, + Fres.). ................... - - - I + Abutilon muticum, Don ....... - - - I + Erodium laciniatum, Cav. + Garná. Eaten by cattle ... - I I I + Monsonia nivea, Gay ......... - I - - + Geranium mascatense, Boiss. + Hiláwá. Eaten by man and + beast. .................... - - I - + Erodium cicutarium, L. ...... - I - - + Tribulus terrestris, L. + Katbeh .................... - I I I + Zygophyllum simplex, L. ..... - - I - + Zygophyllum album, L. + Gallúm. Camels eat. ...... I - - - + Zygophyllum coccineum, L. + forma (Z. propinqiuum, + Dcne.). Muráká. + Animals eat. .............. - I - - + Fagonia cretica, L. van + (F. glutinosa, Del.). + Shikáá (North Midian); + Darmeh (Núman) ........... I I - - + Fagonia mollis, Del. + Warágá; and young plant + of same = Zarag. Animals + eat. ...................... - I I - + Fagonia Bruguieri, DC. + Jamdeh. Animals eat. ...... - I - - + Dodonmaea viscosa, L. var. + (D. arabica, H. and + St.). Athab ............... - - I - + Rhus oxyacanthoides, Dum. + 'Ar'ar .................... - - I - + Neurada procumbens, L. + Sáadán. Eaten by man and + beast. Mountain region. ... - I - I + Trianthema pentandra, L. .... - - - I + Trianthema(?). (Imperfect + specimen.) Rumayh. Eaten by + sheep and cattle. ......... - - - I + Aizoon canariense, L. Dááá. + Grain pounded and eaten. .. - - - I + Gisekia pharnaceoides, L. ... - I - - + Cucumis prophetarum, L. + Locality mislaid. ......... + Cotyledon umbilicus, L. + forma ..................... - - I - + Pimpinella arabica, Boiss. + Rujaylet el-Ghuráb (Little + Crow's-foot). Sheep eat. + Locality astray. .......... + Pimpinella (Tragium + palmetorum? St. and H.). + Very young. ............... - I I - + Ferula (? sp., leaf only). + Kalkh. Animals eat. High up + on SHÁRR. ................. + Grammosciadium scandicinum, + Boiss. sp. nov. ............ - - I I + Medicago laciniata, All. ..... - - I - + Taverniera aegyptiaca, Boiss. + (ex descr.). Shibrig. Eaten + by animals. ................ I - - - + Indigofera spinosa, Forsk. + Shibrig. Camels eat. Good + fodder. .................... - - - I + Indigofera paucifolia, D. .... - I - - + Indigofera (stunted specimen, + may be I. paucifolia). + 'Afar. Animals eat. ........ - I - - + Tephrosia Apollinea, DC. + Dalsam; Táwil. Animals eat. - I I I + Genista (Retama) monosperma, + Del. ....................... - I - - + Lotononis Leobordea, Bth. + Hurbat. Eaten by cattle. ... - I I - + Trigonella stellata, Forsk. + (T. microcarpa, Fres.) ..... - I I - + Onobrychis(?), possibly + O. Ptolemaica. (Barren + specimen). ................. - I - - + Astragalus sparsus(?), Dcne. . - I - - + Astragalus Sieberi, DC. + Ghákeh. Dry and pounded + root mixed with clarified + butter. Drunk as a + restorative. ............... - I - I + Astragalus Forskahlei, Boiss. + Kidád. Camels eat. ........ - I - - + Cassia obovata, Coll. Senna .. - I I I + Iphiona scabra, DC. Zafrah. + Camels eat. ................ - I - - + Pulicaria undulata, DC. + Rabul. Fine perfume. ....... - I - - + Blumea Bovei, DC. + (B. abyssinica, Sch.) ...... - I - I + Ifloga spicata, Forsk. + Zenaymeh. Animals eat. ..... - - - I + Asteriscus pygmaeus, C. and + Dur. ....................... - - - I + Anvillaea Garcini, DC. + (fide Boissier). Nukud. + Eaten by camels and sheep. . - - I - + Anthemis, an A. deserti(?), + Boiss. Gahwán. Camels + eat: also called Gurrays, + pounded and eaten with + dates. ..................... - I I I + Matricaria (Chamaemelum) + auriculata (Boiss.) ........ - - I - + Senecio Decaisnei, DC. + Umm lewinayn ............... - - I I + Senecio coronopifolius, Desf. - I I - + Calendula aegyptiaca, Desf. . - - I - + Calendula aegyptiaca(?) ..... - I - - + Calendula, an var. + aegyptiacae(?) ............ - - - I + Echinops spinosus, L. + Akhshir. Eaten by camels, + sheep, and asses. ......... - - I I + Zoegea purpurea, Fres. + Rubayyán. Cattle eat. .... - - I - + Centaurea sinaica, DC. + Yemrár. Eaten by sheep, + asses, etc. ............... - I - I + Picridium tingitanum, Desf. + forma. Huwwá; Tiz + el-Kalbeh; El-Haudán. + Eaten by man and animals. . - I I I + Urospermum picroides, Desf. . - I - - + Microrhynchus nudicaulis, + Less. 'Azid ............... I - I I + Pterotheca bifida, F. and M. - I I - + Picris, conf. P. Saha*ae, + C. and K. ................. - - - I + Picris cyanocarpa, Boiss. ... - - I - + Callipeltis cucullaria, + Stev. 'Ikrish. Cattle eat. + North or Central Midian. + Crucianella membranacea, + Boiss. ................... - - I - + Galium capillare, Dcne ..... - - I - + Salvadora persica, L. + El-Arák ................. - I - I + Rhazya stricta, Dcne. + Harjal. Eaten only by + mules. Very fragrant. .... - I - - + Daemia cordata, R. Br. ..... - - I - + Steinheilia radians, Dcne. + Faká .................... - I - - + Convolvulus Hystrix, V. + Shibrim. Root used as a + purgative. Animals eat + upper part of plant. .... - - - I + Cuscuta, conf. + C. brevistyla, A. Br. ... - - I - + Withania somnifera, Dun. + Shajarat el-Dib ......... - I - - + Lycium europaeum, L. + 'Aushaz. Eaten by + animals. ................ - - I I + Solanum coagulans(?), + Forsk. var. (A small + fragment only). ......... - - I - + Hyoscyamus pusillus, + L. Saykrán ............. - I I - + Heliotropium arbainense, + Fres. Rahháb. Cattle + eat. .................... - I I - + Trichodesma africanum, + R. Br. Ahmim. Camels and + other animals eat. ...... - - I - + Echium longifolium(?), Del. + Kahlá. Animals eat. .... - - I - + Anchusa Milleri, W. ....... - - I - + Anchusa Milleri(?) young + specimens. .............. - - I - + Anchusa Milleri(?) young + specimens. .............. - I - - + Gastrocotyle (Anchusa + hispida, Forsk.). Karir. + Camels eat. ............. - - - I + Arnebia hispidissima, + A. DC. Fayná. Animals + eat. .................... - I I - + Lithospermum callosum, V. . - I - - + Lindenbergia sinaica, + Bth. Mallih. Cattle eat. - - - I + Verbascum (in bud), an + V. sinaiticum(?), Bth. . - - - I + Verbascum, sp. nov. Sammá - - I - + Herpestis Monniera, + Kth. Nafal. Animals eat. - I - - + Veronica Anagallis, L. ... - - - I + Linaria aegyptiaca, Dum. . - I - - + Linaria macilenta, Dcne. + Zuraymat el-Himar. + Eaten by animals. ...... - - I - + Linaria (*§ Elatinoides), + sp. imperfect. ......... - - I - + Linaria simplex(?), DC. .. - I I - + Linaria Haelava Chav. + (fide Boissier) ........ - I - - + Blepharis edulis, Pers. + (Acanthodium spicatum, + Del.). Shauk el-Jemel. + Camels fond of it. ..... - I - I + Lavandula coronopifolia, + Poir. Zayteh. All + animals eat. ........... - I I - + Mentha lavandulacea, W. + Habag. Animals do not + eat. Pounded and mixed + with fresh dates, "good + for stomach". .......... - I - - + Salvia aegyptiaca, L. .... - I - - + Salvia deserti, Dcne. .... - - I - + Salvia, an S. deserti(?). + Jáadeh. Pounded in + water and snuffed up + nose. .................. - - I - + Otostegia, var. O. + scariosae(?), Bth. (vel + O. repanda, Bth.) + Ghasseh. Sheep eat. .... - - I I + Statice axillaris, Forsk. + Annúm. Camels eat. .... - I - I + Plantago Psyllium, L. + Nez'i'ah. Animals eat. . - I I - + Plantago amplexicaulis, + Cav. Yanameh. Animals + eat. ................... - - I - + Aerwa javanica, Jass. + Rayl. Cattle eat. ...... - I - I + Chenopodium murale, L.? .. - I - - + Chenopodium murale, L.? + (Small seedlings.) + Nafal. Cattle eat. ..... - - - I + Atriplex dimorphostegia? + K. and K. Roghol. + Animals eat. ........... - I - - + Echinopsilon lanatum, Moq. + Garay'á. ............... - I - I + Suaeda sp.(?). (Small + fragment.) .............. - I - - + Suaeda sp.(?). (Barren + fragments, insect + punctured?) 'Aslá. + Forage plant. ........... I - I - + Suaeda monoica? Forsk. + Zuraygá. Forage plant. . I - - - + Salsola(?), cf. S. + longifolia, F. Hamz. + Camels eat. ............. I - - - + Caroxylon(?) (barren + specimen), near C., + foetidum. Akahrit. + Animals eat. ............ I - - - + Rumex vesicarius, L. + (R. roseus, Del.). + Hammáz. Animals eat. ... - - I - + Emex spinosus, Camp. ...... - I - - + Crozophora tinctoria, Juss. + Hinaydieh. Not eaten. ... - - - I + Euphorbia cornuta, Pers. + 'Atir ................... - I - - + Euphorbia scordifolia, + Jacq. Gharghir. Animals + eat. .................... - I - - + Euphorbia (Anisophyllum) + granulata, Schf. + Rugaygeh. Animals eat. .. - - - I + Euphorbia (Anisophyllum) + granulata, forma(?). + Lubayneh. Cattle eat. ... - - - I + Juniperus phoenicea, L. + At four thousand feet on + Sharr. Trunk thicker + than a man's body. + Halibeh. ................ - - I - + Parietaria alsinifolia, + Del. .................... - - I - + Forskahlea tenacissima, L. + Lissák. Animals eat. ... - - I - + Asphodelus fistulosus, L. + (var. tenuifolius, + Bker.). Bo'rak. Only + eaten by animals when + very hungry. Asses eat. . - I I - + Bellevalia flexuosa, Boiss. - I - - + Dipcadi erythraeum, Webb .. - I - - + Gagea reticulata, R. and S. - I - - + Juncus maritimus, L. ...... - - - I + Scirpus Holoschoenus, L. + Namas. Sent to Egypt for + mats. ................... - - - I + Cyperus conglomeratus, + Rottb. (Young specimens) - I - - + Chloris villosa, Pers. .... - - I - + AEluropus repens .......... - I - - + Tricholaena micrantha, + Schrad. Ghazuiar. Eaten + by camels, etc. ......... - - I I + Panicum turgidum, Forsk. + Zarram. Good fodder. .... - I - I + Arundo Donax, L. Kasbá ... - I - - + Polypogon monspeliensis, + Desf. Kháfúr. Sheep + eat. .................... - - - I + Stipa tortilis, Desf. + Pehmeh. Animals eat. .... - I I I + Aristida caerulescens, + Desf. Shárib el-Kale. + Animals eat. ............ - I I - + Hordeum maritimum, L. ..... - I - - + Pappophorum, an P. + phleoides(?), R. and S. + Nejil. Sheep eat. ....... - - - I + Barren specimen. + Indeterminable. Grass ... - I - - + Grass(?). Root and leaves. + Hashmil. Animals eat. ... I - - - + Typha(?). Root and + fragments of leaves. + Birdi ................... - - - I + Grass. Fragmentary. Záeh. + Cattle eat. ............. - - - I + Chara foetida, Braun. + 'Ishnik ................. - I - - + A barren fragment of + undershrub, with opposite + fleshy leaves with + recurved margins. Ajid. + Eaten by animals. + Doubtful. ............... I - - - + + D. OLIVER. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + SECTION II. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The spirit-specimens submitted to Mr. William Carruthers, of the + British Museum, are described by him as follows:— + + 1. Phallus impudicus, Linn. (in Arab. Faswat el-'Ajúz). The common + "stinkhorn," extremely common in some districts of England, and obtruding + on the notice of every one from its detestable odour. It is widely + distributed over America and Africa, as well as Europe, but I find no + record of its occurring in Asia. + + 2. Tulostoma mammosum, Fr. Also British, but not so common. Widely + distributed. + + 3. Phelipoea lutea, Desf. A dark, fleshy broom-rape, with scaly leaves. We + have one species of the same genus in England. They are parasitic on + the roots of plants; and the Midianite species, which is found in North + Africa, Egypt, and Arabia, grows on the roots of a Chenopodium. + + 4. Cynomorium coccineum, Mich. A fleshy, leafless plant, also a root- + parasite. It was called by old writers Fungus Melitensis, and was of much + repute in medicine. It is known from the Himalayas to the Canary + Islands, and is said by Webb, in his history of the Canaries, to be eaten in + the Island of Lancerotte. + + 5. Doemia cordata, R. Br. A spiny shrub, with roundish leaves and small + sharp-pointed fruit, found in Egypt and Arabia. + + 6. Capparis galeata, Fres., with large fruit, long and pear-shaped. This + caper is well known; from Syria and Egypt. + + (Signed) W. CARRUTHERS. + + INSECTS COLLECTED IN MIDIAN BY CAPTAIN BURTON. + (Identified by Mr. Frederick Smith, of the British Museum.) + + COLEOPTERA. + + Geodephaga + + l. Anthia 12 guttata. + + Melolonthidoe. + + 2. Schizonycha reflexa. + 3. Pachydema. + + Dynastidoe. + + 4. Heteronychus. + + Curculionidoe. + + 5. Cleonus arabs. + + Heteromera. + + 6. Mesostenanear punctipennis. + 7. Adesmia. + 8. Akis Goryi? + 9. Mylabris. + + Hemiptera. + + 10. Nepa rubra. + + Mantidoe. + + 11. Eremiaphila arenaria. 12. Blepharis mendica. + + Orthoptera. + + 13. Acocera. + 14. Acridium peregrinum. 15. Poecilocera bufonia. + + Scorpionidea. + + 16. Androctonus funestus. + 17. " leptochelys. + 18. " quinquestriatus. + + Arachnida. + + 19. Galeodes arabs, in spirit. + 20. Clubiona Listeri, in spirit. + + (Signed) FREDK. SMITH. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + APPENDIX V. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL + (December 19, 1877, to April 17, 1878). +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + METEOROLOGICAL NOTES ON TRAVELLING IN MIDIAN. + + Midian follows the rule of Syria—travel in the spring. The best time on the + seaboard is during the months of March, April, and May. In the mountains and + the Hismá plateau, April, May, and June are the most favourable. In Syria + (Damascus) the autumn is dangerous: the finest travelling weather is in March + to May. The second best season is between October and December. + + January and February are cold; the latter also (sometimes) rainy. + + March is stormy at first (El-'Uwweh), but afterwards gets warmer (El-Ni'ám). + Dews now begin, and last some three months: they wet everything like a sharp + shower, and make the air feel soppy. + + In July the first dates come in. Fevers are prevalent during this month, and + also during August and September. + + October is a month of heat and drought. + + In November the first cold occurs. + + December is the coldest month. + + NOTES on TRAVELLING IN LOWER EGYPT. + + September is very bad—all should escape who can. Fruits everywhere; sun hot; + air damp with irrigation water, white fogs and other horrors. + + October is a good month, the weather being neither too hot nor too + cold. + + November is the month of the "second water" irrigation about Cairo. + + December is pleasant. + + January is cold and sometimes wet. + + February is stormy, and even foggy with sand-mist. + + March is windy, but on the whole a good month, except for Khamsin, which + begins about March 20th. + + April begins to feel warm (April 29, 1878, Shamm el-Nasim). + + The winter presents a marvellous contrast to that of England, which + can often show one hour and five minutes' sunlight in the twenty-four, or + 2.8 per cent. of its possible duration. + + THE TIDES + + In El-'Akabah are like Suez: first of month, flood, 6—12 a.m. and p.m.; ebb, + the rest. But at Suez the tides rise one metre, and at times two metres; at + El-'Akabah (February 7), one foot. + + For the instruments NOT used in this Expedition, see Chap. I. p. 11. + + The barometre aneroid sold by M. Ebner was partially repaired by M. Lacaze, + and served for Mr. David Duguid's observations. + + My pocket set by Casella (maker to the Admiralty and Ordnance) + consisted of— + + One watch aneroid (compensated, 1182). + Two sets wet and dry bulb thermometers (one broken). + One set maxima and minima thermometers, Nos. 12,877 and 12,906. + Two pocket hygrometers not numbered. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING FIRST MARCH BETWEEN DECEMBER + 19, 1877, AND FEBRUARY 18, 1878 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + December 19, 1877, compared ship's (Mukhbir) mercurial barometer, 758 + millimetres, with my aneroid by Casella (29.85) = 765 millimetres; difference + in + ship's, + 007 millimetre. + + January 31, 1878, returned on board Mukhbir at Makná. Ship's mercurial + barometer, 773 millimetres; my aneroid by Casella, 764 millimetres; difference + in ship's, + 009 millimetre. + + Date. Time. Aneroid Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hygr. Remarks. + Inches. Milli. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.) + + Dec. 19. 7a.m. 29.85 765 76 - - 58 On deck of gunboat + Mukhbir, at Sharm + Yahárr, steaming to El- + Muwaylah. Morning ugly. + Strong land-breeze, + turned to Azyab ("south- + easter"). Waves rising. + Dark-blue clouds to + windward. + + Noon. 29.80 757 77 - - 54 In big tent on shore, + open east and west. Wind + high. Everything feels + damp; looks gloomy; + mountains almost hidden + by clouds. Landscape + that of Europe. No sun + nor sunshine all day. + + 3p.m. 29.09 - 86 - - 51 In my small tent. + Clearing to windward + (north). Wind veering to + north. Moon nearly full. + High fleecy clouds. Sea + high. No sun all day. + + Azyab (the wet wind) generally lasts two or three days; veers round by west to + north. Much rain has already fallen (Arab lies). Land green (all brown); grass + plentiful (not a blade to be seen). Rains here December 15th to February 15th; + downfall one hour to four hours, then clears. On December 8th, violent rain + for one hour; filled all the torrents (Sayl). + + Dec. 20. 7a.m. 29.80 758 63 - - 40 In small tent open to + east. Morning clear. Few + fleecy clouds: cool and + bright. "Misri" from + north-west; cold and + rain. + + 3p.m. 29.92 759 78 - - 32 Hot in tents, cool in + breeze. "Misri" high and + strong sea. At 1.10 p.m. + heavy clouds; expected + rain—few heavy drops. + + AT EL-MUWAYLAH AND RAS WADY TIRYAM. + + Dec. 21. 6.35a.m. 30.02 763 71 - - 35 Inside tent. Full moon + and clear. Dawn, 6 a.m.; + night, 6.30. Speckled + clouds. + + Noon. 30.48 764 76 - - 48 Under umbrella. Air + clear. Mottled clouds on + mountains. Sea horizon. + Low white bank of + clouds. + + 3p.m. 30.05 763 77 - - 39 "Misri." High cirri from + west. Big black cloud + over sea. Suspected + rain: Arabs said no. + Cloud dispersed. + + AT RAS WADY TIRYAM. + + Dec. 22. 7a.m. 30.01 760 57 - - 32 Cold night. Clear + morning. Cold sunrise. + Dry north-wester. + Instruments on paper, + resting on the sand. + Very dry. + + Noon. 30.14 - 82 - - 22 Very dry. Straight + streaks of cirri + everywhere. + + 4p.m. 30.00 763 72 - - 17 At Wady Sharmá, on sand + protected from west + wind. Bright moon, + showed halo. + + Kayhak 14 begins the Coptic winter, properly speaking evening of 13th; after + sunset 1 hour 51 minutes. Sea-breeze and land-winds regular to-day and + throughout the month. + + AT WADY SHARMÁ. + + Dec. 23. 7a.m. 29.90 760 58 - - 19 Instruments on box + standing on sand. Moon + with halo at night. Red + sunrise, grey clouds. + Mountains blue-grey, + brightly defined. Before + dawn moon two halos, + large and small. Fleecy + clouds. Nine a.m. clear, + sun hot. + + 2.30p.m. 29.15 740 78 - - 25 Under rock in upper Wady + Sharmá. Streaky cirri. + Sun hot; air cool. + Little sea-breeze, kept + off by hills. + + Arrived at the "White Mountain," and stayed there a week. + + 4p.m. 29.12 740 75 - - 28 At Jebel el-Abyaz, on + box behind tent + sheltered from wind. Air + quite still; streaky + cirri. Camp Jebel el- + Abyaz, say, 800 feet + above sea. Felt very + dry. + + AT JEBEL EL-ABYAZ. + + Dec. 24 7a.m. 29.10 738 61 - - 29 In mess tent on mess + table. Cold. Mottled + clouds east and zenith. + Grey bank to sea + reddened by sunrise, + like storm clouds. Rain + here from Azyab ("south- + east"). Sunrise at + Cairo, 6.55 a.m. + + Noon. 29.00 737 64 63 55 33 Suspended instruments. + Grey day: cold breeze + from east. Cold comes + only from wind; when no + breeze, very mild. + Getting greyer and + colder. Very like rain— + heavey clouds. + + 3.10p.m. 29.00 737 64 64 52 28 Wind west, cold and raw. + Air grey and cold. + Evening cold; clouds + dispersed, sun came out. + Wind to west, inclining + to north. + + Small thermometer shows higher than Casellás because in brass case; not so + well exposed to air. + + Dec. 25. 7a.m. 29.10 739 50 50 45 29 Morning cool and clear. + + Noon. 29.20 - 72 68 55 21 Very clear, still, and + hot. Slight breeze from + sea (west). Sun strong. + Swarms of flies. Dry + bulb in sun, 73 degrees; + wet, 60 degrees. + + 3p.m. 29.16 741 72 69 54 15 Cool and gentle breeze + from sea, dispersing the + swarms of flies. At + times "sand-devil" from + north-west. + + All this day's observations taken on writing table in large tent. Night cold: + cold severest after two a.m. and before sunrise. Sky at night perfectly clear. + Wind from north turning to east, a Barri ("land-breeze"). Height of Jebel el- + Abyaz above tents, by aneroid = 350 feet (29.20 - 28.85 = 0.35). + + Dec. 26. 7.15a.m. 29.21 743 48 46 43 22 In tent. Sky perfectly + clear. + + Noon. 29.26 - 76 77 55 6 Sun very hot. Air quite + still. Fleecy clouds + from west over the sun. + + 4.45p.m. 29.23 743 73 69 55 8 Sun cooler. Air + perfectly clear. + + Dec. 27. 7a.m. 29.16 740 50 49 43 5 3 In tent. Morning cold + and clear: few flecks of + cloud to east. Air feels + intensely dry. + + 12.30p.m.29.23 743 77 74 58 9 Fine cirri high up. Sky + blue. Sun veiled at + times. Very little wind, + a breath from north. + + 3.20p.m. 59.16 742 80 77 56 6 Sky with filmy white + clouds, thicker at west. + Sun hidden; very hot at + noon (rain-sun?). Not a + breath of air. Sense of + intense dryness. Ink + evaporates at once. Cool + breeze started up + shortly after 3.30 p.m. + from west, then clouds + thickened. Thermometer + fell 4 degrees. + + Cool evening; quite clear. Fevers and feverish colds begin to show themselves + in camp. Minimum thermometer during night—No. 1, 45 degrees; No. 2, 46 + degrees; French, 15-1/2 degrees (Centigrade). + + Dec. 28 7a.m. 29.10 739 55 53 46 10 In tent. Still. Neither + warm nor cold. Mottled + clouds. + + Noon. 29.13 740 78 72 58 4 Clouds thin. Sun very + hot (rain-sun?). Light + breeze from north-west. + + 3p.m. 29.10 739 79 72 58 - Feels intensely dry. + Hot, close. Heavy + clouds, and purple to + west. Gusts from west. + + No wind. Morning and evening very mild. At eight p.m. dark cloud moving from + south-west to mountains. Drops of rain; then stars. Minimum thermometers + during night, both 48 degrees. None of the maximum will act. + + Dec. 29. 7a.m. 29.10 738 58 58 54 9 In tent. Cool, clear. + Blue-pink in west. Light + sea-breezes from west. + Must be awfully hot in + summer. In closed tent + at eleven a.m., 92 + degrees. + + Noon. 29.13 - 77 75 60 10 Nice breeze from sea + (west), bending to + north. + + 4p.m. 29.00 739 82 79 59 5 Warm and quite still. + + Mean of nineteen aneroid observations at Jebel el-Abyaz = 29.13. + + MARCH FROM JEBEL EL-ABYAZ TO WADY SHARMÁ. + + Dec. 30. 7a.m. 29.10 739 56 - - 7 Clear, still. No speck + of cloud. Moon Náim + (sleeping = *[figure]). + + 5p.m. 29.88 758 66 - - 8 Air quite clear. Camped + at Sharmá. Change to + shore pleasant and soft. + + Noon on journey; sun very hot. Evening still. Violent weather at night; cold + and comfortless. Abated somewhat after sunrise. + + AT SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT OPEN NORTH AND SOUTH. + + Dec. 31. 7a.m. 29.88 758 59 - - 7 Wind cold and dusty. Sky + perfectly clear. A few + light mist-clouds on + mountain-wall. + + Noon. 29.94 760 75 73 58 6 Wind still. Sun much + warmer. + + 3p.m. 29.90 - 74 71 58 3 Wind cool; some dust. + + Clouds about sunset sailing out of Suez Gulf, forming archipelago of sky + islets. Dark bank to south. Minimum thermometer at night = 42 degrees. + + AT SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT OPEN NORTH AND SOUTH (about 100 feet + above sea-level). + + Jan. 1. 7a.m. 29.90 759 53 50 45 10 Clear, fine, quite + still. Nice breeze began + about nine a.m. + + Noon. 29.97 - 71 69 57 4 Cold. North wind high. + Light clouds to west; + the rest clear. + + 3p.m. 29.94 760 73 72 61 4 Clouds to west from Suez + sea. + + High wind fell before midnight. Cold—sat in tent. Flies troublesome + everywhere. Minimum at night, 42-43 degrees. + + AT WADY SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT. + + Jan 2. 7a.m. 29.98 761 53 - - 10 + + 3p.m. 30.00 762 76 72 58 3 Cool breeze from north. + No signs of clouds. Sun + hot and air cool. + + Evening no wind, no clouds. At night high cold wind from east, seems to pierce + clothes. Lasted till morning and sun well up. Minimum thermometer, No. 1 = 45 + degrees; No. 2 = 46 degrees. + + Jan. 3. 7a.m. 29.92 760 58 57 47 3 Dawn comfortless. Cold. + Fire in tent. Sand + blowing. Air highly + electrical. + + Noon. 29.90 762 77 76 61 2 Wind still. Hot sun. + + 3p.m. 29.91 759 76 74 58 4 Hot sun. Gentle breeze. + Warm in tent. + + Night very cold. Minimum thermometers, No. 1 = 40 degrees; No. 2 = 41 degrees. + + Jan. 4. " 29.83 - 52 50 - 5 + + Noon. 29.93 760 81 80 60 3 Decidedly hot. No + breeze. + + 3p.m. 29.90 - 78 75 63 0 Very hot and still. + + In evening few fleecy clouds to south-west. Appearance of Azyab. Minimum + thermometers at night, No. 1 = 36 degrees; No. 2 = 38 degrees. + + AT WADY SHARMÁ. + + Jan. 5. 7a.m. 29.90 - 48 45 43 6 Pink clouds south-west + and south-east. Cirri + everywhere. + + Noon. 29.87 761 79 79 67 3 Hot and still. Clear; + few cirri. + + 3p.m. 29.96 760 74 71 60 0 Cool wind. Cold in + shade. Cirri to south, + at times over the sun. + + Very cold at night. Saw new moon; set in fire. Planets veiled in mist. Moon + Káim (points upwards = *[figure]). + + Jan. 6. 7.20a.m. 29.94 760 53 51 46 8 Still, clear. Light + breeze about 10.30 a.m. + + Noon. 29.80 761 82 - - 4 + + 4p.m. 29.96 761 76 - - 3 Clear and hot. Sunset, + red cirri. Water very + cold. Moon clear. + + Jan. 7 " 29.98 758 52 - - 18 At Sharmá. Cool and raw. + Few clouds to south and + south-west. + + Noon. 30.08 764 78 - - 26 At 'Aynúnah, in big + tent. Fresh wind from + north. Air much damper; + more pleasant. + + AT 'AYNÚNAH. + + Jan. 8. 7a.m. 30.11 763 55 - - 22 Morning still—windless + Breath from east. Warm + and pleasant. + + Noon. 30.02 767 77 74 61 13 Quite clear and dry. + Gusts of wind. Flies + very bad, even in the + waste. + + 3p.m. 30.15 767 77 76 63 7 + + Cold high wind at night. + + LEFT 'AYNÚNAH. + + Jan. 9. 7a.m. 30.04 - 63 - - 10 Outside tent. Light + clouds everywhere at + dawn. Morning warm and + close. + + Noon. 29.91 759 80 - - 48 At El-'Usaylah. Sky + covered with clouds. Sun + coming out. + + 4p.m. 29.87 758 53 - - 23 In tent at El-'Usaylah. + No wind. + + Cool pleasant night. Rain in Mount Sinai(?). + + Jan. 10. 6.45a.m. 29.85 - 56 - - 15 Observations in open. + Cold north wind. Clear + and cirri. + + 3p.m. 29.30 745 77 - - 1 At Magháir Shúayb, under + a tree. + + Night cold. High wind; shook the tents. + + AT MAGHÁIR SHÚAYB. + + Jan. 11. 7a.m. 29.37 747 60 - - 20 In open, on box. + + Noon. 29.40 748 82 - - 8 In tent. + + 3p.m. 29.38 747 84 - - -4 Still. Air hot. + + As a rule, at Magháir Shúayb we had land-breezes; cold from north and east. + Seabreezes during day, after noon. + + Jan. 12. 7a.m. 29.35 746 59 - - 3 In tent. Cool. Cirri. At + two a.m. cool fresh wind + from north. + + Noon. 29.46 747 83 - - -5 In tent. Hot sun. Light + clouds. + + 3p.m 29.30 746 83 81 64 -9 In tent. No sun, no + wind. Thin clouds. + + Night warm; wind towards morning. Mosquitoes in tamarisks of Wady. Minimum + thermometer, 52 degrees. + + Jan. 13. 7a.m. 29.38 745 65 - - -4 Outside tent, on box. + Cloudy; little wind. elt + warm. Sun came out + strong at ten a.m. + + Noon. 29.27 744 87 87 67 -9 In big tent. Heat like + summer. Flies + troublesome, travel on + our backs. + + 3p.m. 29.20 743 85 85 65 -15 Very hot. Thin clouds. + Sea-breeze. + + Very hot and sultry weather: Arabs say portends rain. Wind (generally) from + north in morning; afternoon from sea. + + Jan. 14. 7a.m. 29.01 740 63 63 55 0 In tent. Land-breeze set + in. Expected heavy rain, + and pitched camp higher + up. + + 2.30p.m. 29.15 - 81-1/279 68 0 Taken by Mr. Clarke. + + Rain began 2.30 a.m. (Jan. 15), small drops, then heavy, lull, and again + heavy; ended about 4.30 a.m. A little wind from south-west rose after rain. + + The last rain was on December 7-10, 1877; violent storms accompanied it. + + Jan. 15. " 29.00 - 71-1/270 66 30 By Mr. Clarke at Magháir + Shúayb. Sky all covered + ; little clear to west. + Mist all over north. + Things feel damp. + + Noon. 29.06 737 76 73 65 30 All cloudy. After rain, + sultry heat of noon + quite disappeared. + + 3p.m. 29.06 738 75 73 65 25 Still cloudy. Cool. + + Cold nights and mornings. + + Jan. 16. 7a.m. 29.20 - 48 45 42 18 No rain. Cold. Little + wind. Cloudy. No wind. + + Noon. 29.05 - 69 65 54 3 Sun hot. Cool breeze + from north as usual. No + clouds. + + 3p.m. 29.25 - 69 65 52 12 + + Night fine and clear. Stars and moon very bright. + + Jan. 17. 7a.m. 29.30 - 42 42 39 17 Clear morning. Very + cold. Land breeze. + + Noon. 29.36 745 69 66 54 18 Fine stiff breeze from + north-east. + + 3p.m. 29.34 745 73 70 59 16 Fine breeze falling. + + Fine clear night, moon nearly full. No clouds. Not cold. Cool at night and + towards morning. Wind rose about four a.m. + + Jan. 18. 7.30a.m. 29.28 745 55 55 50 26 In tent. Cool, clear. + Gentle land-wind. + + Noon. 29.30 - 79 79 63 16 Same weather. + + 3p.m. 29.25 - 81 79 62 8 Night cool. Hardly any + wind. + + Jan. 19. 7a.m. 29.15 - 53 52 45 16 In tent. Cold wind from + north. + + Noon. 29.17 - 81 79 63 9 Sun hot. Cool breeze + from north. Sky clear. + + 3p.m. 29.15 - 80 77 60 5 + + Remarkably warm pleasant night. + + Jan. 20. 7a.m. 29.05 - 50 48 45 19 In tent. No wind. Air + sharp. + + Noon. 29.10 - 79 75 63 12 Light wind (south-west). + Sun hot. Sky clear. + + 3p.m. 29.10 - 73 73 60 8 Cool and pleasant. + + Curious moonrise. Thin clouds like volcanic smoke, separated into cirri like + sheep-skin: all said sign of heat. Night still and warm. Few stratified clouds + to west. + + Jan. 21. 8a.m. 29.13 740 56 54 50 20 In tent. Cold raw wind + (El-Ayli) from north- + east. High clouds. Worse + near Gulf. + + Noon. 29.20 743 68 66 55 16 High cold wind, + continuous. Bright sun. + Sky intensely blue and + clear. + + 4.15p.m. 29.22 744 66 65 53 8 Cool. High wind. + + Strong wind at night; fell about midnight; gusts at times. Very cold. Bad + weather at Sharm Yahárr. Fortuna ("strong wind") began January 21st, ended + January 23rd: the next gale was on night of January 28th. As a rule, the + people say; black clouds show that the wind will increase; light clouds the + contrary. + + Jan. 22. 7a.m. 29.32 745 50 49 45 15 Cold and cloudy. El-Ayli + continues. + + Noon. 29.36 748 66 62 52 11 High cold north-easter + rose about 11.30. Sun + warm. Air cold. + + Heavy purple clouds to north and west. Night still; occasional gusts. Eight + p.m. quite still. Mukhbir delayed by bad weather. + + Jan. 23. 7.20a.m. 29.39 748 50 50 45 19 Gusts and calm. Nimbi to + west. High north wind + set in. + + Noon. 29.40 747 66 64 54 14 Cold in shade, hot in + sun. High wind. + + 4p.m. - - 66 65 52 9 Wind still high. Dust. + + Night alternately gusty and still. Warm. Mukhbir steamed back to her + anchorage, Sharm Yáhárr. + + Jan 24. 7a.m. 29.29 745 55 52 47 15 Gentle breeze from + north. No clouds—sign + of no wind. + + 1.30p.m. - - 83 78 68 10 The normal hot, + windless, cloudless day. + + 3p.m. - - 78 74 62 7 Pleasant sea-breeze. Sun + hot; air coolish. + + Night warm and pleasant. + + MAGHáIR SHÚAYB TO MAKNÁ (March). + + Jan. 25. 7a.m. 29.30 - 61 - - 15 On box. Fine, and + perfectly clear. + + Noon. 29.45 - 78 - - - On road to Wady Makná, + riding mule. Sea-breeze + about noon, strong. + Shortly after noon heavy + clouds (from north and + west) hid the sun. + + 3p.m. 30.06 - 71 - - 23 Arrived at Makná, on + box. + + Warm pleasant night. Appearance of rain. Wind from north. Moon clouded. + + AT MAKNÁ. + + Land and sea breezes regular. Morning and evening cool. Noon hot. Evaporation + immense. Healthy near shore; feverish up the valley. Damp air from + neighbourhood of Mount Sinai. + + Jan. 26. 7a.m. 30.02 - 68 - - 21 Cloudy. Heavy white + waves on water. Wind + west; dangerous for + ships. + + 12.30p.m.30.07 - 80 77 62 21 Sun hot; sky clear. + Light fleecy clouds on + Sinai. + + 3.30p.m. 30.04 743 82 80 70 18 Air and sun hot. Clear. + Sea-breeze. No gale. + + Rain probably during the day in Sinai. Muttali, or "fort," of Makná showed + aneroid 760 (29). + + Jan. 27. 7a.m. 30.02 - 60 59 55 35 In tent. Fine clear; + nice land-breeze. Rush + of wind at two a.m. Wind + at four a.m. Loud noise + of reef. + + 1.30p.m. 30.04 - 80 76 68 28 In big tent, opening to + south. Quite clear and + bright. No clouds. + Slight sea-breeze. + + 3p.m. 30.02 - 80 79 70 26 Hot and still. + + Night glorious. No wind. Only sigh and sound of reef. + + Jan. 28. 7a.m. 29.98 - 58 58 53 30 Perfectly still and + clear. Light land- + breeze. + + 12.45p.m.30.00 - 80 78 66 20 Weather breaking. Clouds + forming everywhere. High + horizontal cirri. North + wind, whistling over + country. + + 3p.m. 29.98 - 80 79 67 20 Packed up wet and dry + bulbs. + + At sunset high streaky cirri of red colour: all said wind. Same as at Magháir + Shúayb (January 21-23). At eleven p.m. El-Ayli (north wind from 'Akabat- + Aylah?) came down upon us with a rush. Gravel like drops of rain. Tents at + once on the ground. Sky still clear—stars shining. + + Jan. 29. 7.15a.m.30.02 - 62 - - 19 In tent-hut. Wind + violent. Cold and raw + between moonrise and + sunrise. + + Noon. 30.04 - 81 - - 13 In tent-hut. Wind (El- + Ayli) gusty and violent. + Sky quite clear. + + They say this gale denotes end of Zamharir ("great cold"). Wind fell about + three p.m. Mild at sunset. Wind then increased, and became very violent at + night (l0-11 p.m.); seems to beat down from above. Summit of quartz-hills, 2 + obs. = 29.40 + + Jan. 30 7a.m. 30.06 - 62 - - 19 In tent-hut. Mountains + perfectly clear. Fleecy + clouds to north and + south, sailing from west + to east. + + 3p.m. 30.06 - 72 - - 15 Clear and fine. Wind + falling. + + Wind fell during afternoon and evening, but rose again at night; was at its + worst about eleven p.m. + + Jan. 31. 7a.m. 30.06 - 67 - - 22 In tent-but. Wind worse; + signs of blowing + everywhere. Light clouds + north and south. Mottled + clouds (cirri, mackerel- + back). Gusts violent + after sunrise. + + Noon. 30.08 - 73 - - 19 In cabin on board + Mukhbir. Wind violent. + Sky clear. White clouds, + as yet wind increasing. + Sand and dust but + mountains clear. + + 3p.m. 30.09 - 78 - - 22 On board Mukhbir. Wind + violent. Sky covered + with grey clouds. + + At sunset, gleams to west and round horizon; heavy to north. Hoped for rain, + but none came. Fires alight all night. Very bad night; perhaps the worst yet + seen. Chain dragging. At nine p.m. sky clear, but wind worse. + + AT MAKNÁ, ON BOARD "MUKHBIR." + + Feb. 1. 7a.m. 30.08 - 70 - - 21 Wind worse than ever. + Dark cirri to south. + Mountains clear on all + sides. + + Noon. 30.06 - 74 70 63 21 Wind very bad, turning + to east (?). Cirri + everywere: to west + formed ascending rays + like sun, extending to + zenith; to east were + crosses and lozenges. + + 3p.m 30.04 - - 70 65 - Wind still bad. White + clouds have thickened to + south, and thinned to + north. Bases of + mountains blurred (by + dust?); summits clear. + + At sunset wind lighter. Dark clouds to south, going westward from Suez. Cirri + overhead, presently disappeared; also about the horizon. At night fine + zodiacal light. Wind increased. Observations in main cabin throughout voyage. + + Feb. 2. 7a.m. 30.00 - 69 70 65 22 Perfectly clear. Wind + worse. + + Noon. 30.00 - 78 - - 21 Clear sky; only cloud, + thin white strata to + north. + + 3p.m. 29.04 - 75 73 63 19 No clouds. Wind milder. + Barometer falling (sign + of wind ceasing?). Wind + getting warmer, and + bending east. + + Wind less in evening, and warmer; ceased about midnight; lasted from eleven + p.m., January 28, to midnight, February 2 = five days and five nights. + Zodiacal light. + + Feb. 3. 7a.m. 29.93 - 56 65 56 20 On deck (wet and dry + bulbs in main cabin). + Fresh breeze from east. + Fleecy clouds south and + east. + + Noon. 29.96 - 74 - - 25 On deck. Fine breeze + from north. + + In evening cirri to west and east. Black dots in regular lines. Night at Minat + Jinái. Very fine and clear; young moon and Venus. Deadly still. Zodiacal light + seen every night in the 'Akabah Gulf: not outside it. + + Feb. 4. 7a.m. 29.92 - 74 70 67 24 En route to Nuwaybi', + along Sinai shore. + Morning grey; light + clouds everywhere. Dull + brassy sunrise. Water + dark. Wind south, felt + very damp. Sinai hills + clouded over: cirri + strata high up; nimbi in + fragments below. + + Noon. 29.86 - 74 73 68 28 Under awning on board; + going north. Sickly sun. + Cirri to east. + + 3p.m. 29.80 - 75 73 66 26 Main cabin South wind + strong, increased after + noon. Clear horizon + then. Sea foaming: wind + became very strong, and + raised water about + sunset, then fell. + + A regular day of south wind, blasts, mists, and gusts; calmed down in evening. + Quiet night. All day cirri and strata high up from west. Wásit sand forming + cloud. + + Feb. 5. 7a.m. 30.00 - 72 68 60 9 En route to Kaláh + (Jezirat Faráun of + maps), in main cabin. + Wind north. Clouds on + hill-tops and to north— + effects of yesterday. + East mountains misty; + west clear. Mottle of + clouds. + + Noon. 29.94 - 73 70 61 7 On deck, steaming north. + Dry and wet bulbs in + main cabin. Clouds— + light cumuli to north, + east, and west; south + clear. Wind north, + light. + + 3p.m. 29.97 - 75 70 59 19 In main cabin off island + El-Kaláh. Violent gusts + from west, down valleys- + -deflection of south + wind, lasted only few + minutes. Cloudy and + clear. + + Night clear. Violent gusts from south, lasting a few minutes, then still. + + ON BOARD "MUKHBIR," OFF ISLAND EL-KALÁH. + + Feb. 6. 7a.m. 30.12 - 70 66 59 15 In main cabin. A regular + raw and gloomy English + morning. Clouds + everywhere—drops of + rain. Wind south, + deflected west. Gusts at + times. All felt damp and + uncomfortable. + + Noon. 30.10 - 70 65 59 26 In main cabin. Sky all + covered with clouds. + Wind from north, gusty. + Barometer rising. + + 3p.m. 30.12 - 66 68 60 21 In main cabin. Sky + covered; gleams of sun. + Clear to south. Wind + north, mild. + + A few drops of rain morning and evening. Pleasant quiet night. + + Feb. 7. 6a.m. 30.13 - - 62 57 19 In main cabin. Still; + fresh air; no wind. + Heavy clouds from west, + covering east-west + mountains. West mottled; + north and south clear. + + 3p.m. 30.10 - 71 66 62 25 In main cabin. Cool + breeze. Hot sun. Cloudy + and clear. + + Drops of rain at sunset. Wind west. Heavy rain twice at night; after midnight + wetted deck. Rain at 'Akabah from west, with clouds and winds. + + FROM EL-'AKABAIT, GOING SOUTH. + + Rise of tide off El-'Akabah town, one foot. + + Feb. 8. 7a.m. 30.20 - 56 63 61 3 On deck. Dry and wet + bulbs in main cabin. At + sunrise heavy purple + clouds drifting over + plain, covering hills on + both sides. Cold, raw, + wet wind. Rain on Sinai + to north-west and south- + west. Saw rainbow. Wind + gradually turning to + east (favourable). Play + of light and shade over + plains and hills. + + Noon. 30.15 - 65 64 57 22 In main cabin. Glorious + day. Blue sky; bluer + sea. Strong breeze. + Cloudy and clear. + + 3p.m. 30.16 - 67 65 58 25 In main cabin. After + noon wind gradually + fell, and sky cleared; + became much warmer. + Steamer (five and a half + knots) beat the sailing + tender. North perfectly + clear; south and east, + fleecy clouds. Sun clear + and warm. + + At sunset red cirri. Wind increased greatly. Waves following us, high and + hollow. Bad night. Wind and water high. At midnight(?), rode with head to + gale. February 9th, four a.m., turned south. Six a.m. stood for Makná (right + angles, and nearly "turned turtle"). + + ON BOARD "MUKHBIR." + + Feb. 9. 7a.m. 30.22 - - 64 26 26 In main cabin, off Sharm + Dabbah. Sky quite clear. + North wind colder than + ever, yet we are going + south. Beginning of + dangerous gale which + lasted till February + 13th. Ugly hollow sea. + + 1p.m. 30.15 - - 66 58 28 In main cabin. Out of + 'Akabah Gulf. Passed + into a summer sea. Under + lee of Tirán. On deck 63 + degrees (F.). + + 3p.m. 30.11 - - 69 59 27 In main cabin, rounding + south of Jezirat Tirán. + Sky all clear, except + wind cirri over 'Akabah + Gulf and to west. + + At nine p.m. halo round moon, and far from it—bad sign! Before midnight gusts + began. Increased at one a.m. (February 10). At four a.m. very violent north + wind from El-'Akabah. + + Feb. 10 7a.m. 30.07 - - 69 65 30 In cabin of Mukhbir, + south of Tirán. Water + ruffled. Clouds + everywhere. Rain on the + coast. Felt raw. Mottled + sky. + + Noon. 30.03 - - 72 64 38 In cabin at Tirán. Sun + out at nine a.m. Clouds + and clear. Windy sky. + Cirri to west and north- + west. Dark clouds to + leeward. + + 3p.m. 29.94 - - 74 65 25 In cabin at Tirán. Rain- + storm to south-west. + Wind north. Sky cloudy + and clear. Cool breeze, + not high. + + At four p.m. a few large drops fell. Heavy rain at El-'Akabah and on east + coast. Sand-veil over Sinaitic shore. Six p.m., wind gusty. Rain-clouds all + over coast. Wind becoming warm. At 1.15 a.m. (February 11), terrible rush and + fall of rain. Wind westing. Mild at first. Five a.m., hard Gharbi, threatening + Azyab. All mist—could hardly see the shore. + + Feb. 11. 7a.m. 29.82 - - 71 67 35 To windward of Tirán. + Howling west wind. Sun + like pale cheese. + Aneroid falling. After + seven a.m. the storm + broke, and we narrowly + escaped a wreck in two + places, Tirán and + Sináfir. Crisis of gale. + + Noon. 29.80 - - 70 60 30 In Sináfir port, main + cabin. Wind west, + bending to south on + falling. + + 3p.m. 28.20 - - 72 65 24 In main cabin. Mist and + sand. English sun. Wind + west and warm. Sea green + and breaking. + + At five p.m. the sand-mist began to clear off. Wind died away, then turned + north and north-north-east. Light scud over moon, going slowly. Patches of + blue, and stars. Barometer rising fast. Perfectly still night till midnight, + when it began to blow, about the setting of the moon. At Suez, during the + gale, red dust prevented ships seeing one another; and at Cairo trees were + uprooted. + + AT SINÁFIR ISLAND. + + Feb. 12 " 30.13 - - 68 62 31 In main cabin. At 3.30 + a.m. a violent Ayli, + like that of El-'Akabah, + began to blow. Gusts and + shivering water. Swept + off all sand-fog. + + Noon. 30.17 - - 73 64 27 In main cabin. Howling + wind. Sea less, because + of ebb. Breeze fresh. + Sky clear to south; few + white clouds to north- + east and west. Sun + bright and warm. + + 3p.m. 30.14 - - 75 65 24 In cabin. Wind violent + as ever, and cold from + north. + + During the night the wind blew from all possible directions; north-east, and + at one time due west. + + LEFT SINÁFIR FOR SOUTH. + + Feb. 13. " 30.18 - - 66 60 36 In main cabin. Howling + north wind till four + a.m., then milder. + Hardly a speck of cloud. + Fresh cool air from + north. Sea very blue. + All sail set. Mist- + clouds on tallest peaks + of coast-range. Wind + diminished as we went + south. Cirri everywhere, + zenith and on horizon. + + Noon. 30.12 - - 69 59 26 On deck. Soft pleasant + air; before cold and + hard. Influence of + El'Akabah. Thermometer + on deck 69 degrees (F.). + + 3p.m 30.10 - - 71 62 20 On board. Sky milky + everywhere with cirri. + Wind north-west, going + west. + + Red sunset. Distant halo round moon—cleared off soon (a good sign), and not + well marked. Light westerly gale (No. 2). + + AT SHARM YÁHÁRR. + + Feb. 14. 7a.m. 30.06 - - 64 58 22 In cabin (open). + Splendid morning. Wind + west, set in hard before + noon. Milk-and-water + sky. Should have been + kept at Sináfir. + + Noon. 30.04 - - 71 60 20 West wind increased. Sky + clear; but SHÁRR + Mountains cloudy— + condensing moisture. + + 3p.m. 30.02 - - 71 60 20 In cabin. North-west + wind strong. Moved ship. + Heavy black clouds on + mountains. + + ON BOARD "MUKHBIR" AT SHARM YÁHÁRR. + + Feb 15. " 30.10 - - 66 58 30 In cabin. + + Noon. 30.13 - 72 - - 35 In cabin. + + 3p.m. 30.14 - 75 - - 26 On deck. Clouds above + the mountains. + + Cold north-west breeze at five p.m. Sea high. Aneroid observations at Sulphur + Mountain—foot, 30.14; top, 29.90; difference .24 = 250 feet. + + Feb. 16. 7.30a.m. 30.23 - - 63 55 20 In cabin. Aneroid + unusually high. Clear + and cloudy at mountains. + Cool air and light + breeze. + + 12.50p.m. 30.23- - 64 55 20 Cool. Wind north. In + cabin. + + 3p.m. 30.20 - - 66 56 18 In cabin. Cool. No + clouds. + + Splendid night. Not a sign of cloud. Cool. White streak on the water (milky + sea, like that of Bombay, caused by fish?). Finest weather yet seen. + + ON BOARD "MUKHBIR." + + Feb. 17. 6a.m. 30.17 - 66 - - 15 In cabin. Cool, clear, + splendid. Forenoon warm + and still. Sea glassy. + + Noon. 30.16 - 74 - - 20 In cabin. Sea-breeze + came up strong at eleven + a.m. + + 3p.m. 30.13 - - - - 23 In cabin. Sky clouded + all the afternoon—did + not see the sun. Moon + veiled—not a nice look. + + Night very cold (shivery). Wind Barri ("land-breeze"). + + IN MESS-TENT, OPEN TO EAST. + + Feb. 18. 6.30a.m. 30.00 - 61 - - 14 Cold and clear. Land- + breeze. + + Noon. 30.04 - 78 - - 33 Sea-breeze setting; + land-breeze stopped. Sky + perfectly clear. Sun + hot. No end of flies. + + 3p.m. 30.04 - 78 - - 22 Fierce and violent west + wind—a Gharbi, or + exaggerated sea-breeze? + Sky quite clear. + + Night quite still. Cold wind stopped at nine p.m. rather suddenly. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING SECOND MARCH TO THE HIMSÁ PLATEAU, SOUTH-EASTERN + MIDIAN, BETWEEN FEBRUARY 19 AND MARCH 8, 1878. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The distance traversed comprised 222-1/4 statute miles, mostly through + unexplored country. + + On return compared aneroids:— + French .............................. 763 millimetres. + My Casella .......................... 762 " + + Difference .......................... .001 " + + Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Hygr. Remarks. + Inches. (deg.)(deg.) + + Feb. 19. 6.20a.m. 30.07 65 23 In big tent at El-Muwaylah. Cool land- + breeze. Sky quite clear. + + Noon. 29.82 74 23 At Wady Surr, under tree in sea-breeze. + Clear sky, few white clouds. Cold land- + breeze in Wady Surr at ten a.m.; cold sea- + breeze at eleven a.m. + + 3.40p.m. 29.60 76 20 At Safh Wady Malayh (Malih), in big tent. + Feels as if high up. + + Night perfectly still, except a gust about midnight. + + Feb. 20. 6.25a.m. 29.53 60 21 In big tent at Safh Wady Malayh. Clear and + fine. + + 11.20a.m.29.40 73 43 Under tree at base of western Gháts. Fine + cool sea-breeze. + + 3p.m. 29.44 78 17 At Sayl Wady el-Jimm ("water-gathering"). + Hot sun. Cold sea-breeze. + + Night cold, with land-breeze. + + Feb. 21. 6.15a.m. 29.38 64 7 In big tent at Sayl Wady el-Jimm. Clouds + to north and east; air damp. High wind and + clouds. + + 12.45p.m.28.82 71 25 On march up Wady Sadr, under tree. Cold + sea-breeze. Sky quite clear; sun warm. + Awful east winds down these Wadys form the + Goz or sand-heaps. + + 3.30p.m. 28.86 76 7 In small tent at El-Nagwah, in Wady Sadr. + Sun hot; breeze cold. + + Night cold, but not so cold as we expected. + + Feb. 22. 6a.m. 28.86 56 8 In big tent at El-Nagwah. + + 11.50a.m.25.40 65 4 Under tree in Wady Sadr; say, 1600 feet + high. White clouds. West wind (sea-breeze + deflected to north) blowing. Here cold + comes from wind. + + 3p.m. 27.80 74 3 In big tent at Amwáh el-Rikáb, Wady Sadr. + + At four p.m. cold and clouds; cumuli and cirri. West wind deflected to north. + At five p.m. thermometer in tent 66 degrees. Fire in tent. Night cold, clear, + and still. A few gusts about midnight. + + AT HEAD OF WADY SADR. + + Feb. 23. 6.30a.m. 27.80 53 5 In big tent foot of Gháts. Weather lovely- + -clear, fine, and cold. At eight a.m. sun + warm, then cold wind. + + 1.30p.m. 26.88 72 5 In big tent. Cold easterly gale. + + 4p.m. 26.90 65 2 In small tent, same place. + + Violent wind at midnight. Cold; thermometer 38 degrees. + + Feb. 24. 6a.m. 26.95 48 0 At head of Wady Sadr. + + 26.15 45 0 To summit of Khuraytat el-Jils (Pass). + Above the Pass, aneroid 26.25; below, + 26.70: difference, .55 = 450 feet. Walked + down in twenty-six minutes. + + 11.30a.m.26.18 56 0 In the open, under shade. Perfectly clear + of clouds. Sun hot. + + 3p.m. 26.26 66 -2 In big tent on Hismá plateau (short + descent to camping-ground). Air clear; sun + hot. + + Very cold when sun sets. Gusts from east at night. + + ON HIMSÁ PLATEAU. + + Feb. 25. 6.30a.m. 26.30 42 3 In big tent. + + 12.30p.m.27.84 74 12 At foot of Khuraytat el-Jils. Still, no + wind; no clouds. + + 3.30p.m. 27.83 78 17 No wind; no clouds. + + Night splendidly clear and still. Felt warm. + + Feb. 26. 6a.m. 27.72 64 2 In big tent on Hismá plateau. Glorious + orange-coloured dawn. Mild north wind. + Moon in last quarter. At eight a.m. good + breeze from north; at eleven a.m. cool and + pleasant breeze from east. + + Noon. 28.00 70 -8 On march in Shafah Mountains. Hot sun. + Cold wind. + + 3p.m. 28.30 85 -4 Camp Majrá el-Ruways. In small tent. + Strong west breeze in gusts. + + Night glorious at foot of the two Passes. + + Feb. 27. 6a.m. 28.10 65 -4 On ground outside tent at Majrá el-Ruways. + Sky overhead quite clear; a few flecks to + south, low clouds to east. At 8.30 a.m. + wind south. Sun at first hot; then sky + cloudy. + + 11.45a.m.28.48 80 3 At El-Rahabah, head of Wady Dámah, under + tree. Fine sea-breeze. High white strata + to north-east and south. No clouds + elsewhere. + + 5p.m. 28.56 76 -5 Under thorn-tree at Wady Dámah. Fleeting + cirro-cumuli. + + Night very cold. Not a sign of dew till we returned on board Mukhbir. + + Feb. 28. 6a.m. 28.50 44 -5 At Wady Dámah, on box in open. Clouds and + sea-breeze at 8.45 a.m. + + 1p.m. 28.29 70 19 Under tree at Shuwák ruin. Thermometer in + sun, 82 degrees. Bits of cumuli from + south. At two p.m. furious wind and dust + (sand-devils) scouring up valley from + south, also deflected to west by Pass + gorge. "Sand-devils" in Wadys Surr, Sadr, + Dámah, Shuwák, and Salmá. + + 3p.m. 28.19 71 16 In big tent. + + A few gusts during early part of night; the rest very still. Cold and clear. + + AT SHUWÁK RUIN. + Mar. 1. 6.45a.m. 25.30 46 10 Very cold; hands chilled. Land-breeze at + eight a.m. At barrage (dam), aneroid + 28.36. + + Noon. 28.37 76 17 In small tent. Noon hot. Wind gusty—not + regular and strong as yesterday. + + 3p.m. 28.34 77 6 In small tent. Sky clear; air still and + sultry. + + Mar. 2. 6a.m. 28.30 58 11 In big tent at Shuwák. Air still. Clouds + to east. Afterwards sky mottled, windy + striae. At seven a.m. rainbow without + rain; thin cloud north of sun; + perpendicular streak, brilliant enough: + lasted twenty minutes. + + 9a.m. 28.75 66 - At Shaghab ruin. Sea-breeze at eleven a.m. + Clear and cool. Day slightly cloudy; sun + partly hidden. + + 3p.m. 28.60 86 15 In big tent at Majrá el-Wághir. Mild sea- + breeze. Hot sun. High clouds. + + Night windless, except few occasional gusts. Stars veiled. Grand zodiacal + light (now the regular thing). Cool and pleasant. + + Mar. 3. 6a.m. 28.55 66 14 At Majrá el-Wághir, outside tent. Sky + cloudy; mist to north, "mackerel's back" + to east. Sea-breeze at 9.30 a.m. in Wady + Dámah. + + Noon. 29.13 75 26 Under tree in Wady Dámah. Cool wind from + south-west. A few clouds, getting + gradually darker to west and south-west. + + 4p.m. 29.20 78 15 At El-Kutayyifah (camp) under a tree. Cool + south-west wind. + + 6a.m. 29.30 63 16 Cold north wind. Sea-breeze at nine a.m, + In big tent at El-Kutayyifab. + + Mar. 4. 11.30a.m. 29.33 68 11 In shade of rock, Umm ámil. + + 4p.m. 29.63 80 10 In small tent at Má el-Badi'h, Wady Salmá. + Cold, stiff gale: dust-laden sea-breeze up + the ugly gorge. + + 5.45a.m. 29.50 60 13 At Má el-Badi'h, on box in open air. Air + clear; thin threads to south. + + Mar. 5. 12.30p.m. 30.06 84 -3 At Zibá, in big tent, open east and west, + fronting the bay. + + 2.45p.m. 30.00 82 4 At Zibá, in small tent. + + AT ZIBÁ, IN CAMP (our second halt). + + Mar. 6. 6a.m. 29.92 61 15 In big tent. Rather heavy clouds to east + and elsewhere. Sea-breeze began at ten + a.m. + + Noon. 30.04 86 10 In big tent. Air dull and heavy. "Rain- + sun." + + 3.45p.m. 30.00 81 3 Sky quite clear. + + Storm at sunset. Heavy clouds rising over arch from west to north: all said + meant wind. At seven p.m. violent gusty gale; nearly blew down tents. Rushing + and furious rain from north-west. Gusts lasted long. Fell about eleven p.m. + Rose again very violently at midnight; then blew itself out. Followed by cold + air. Rain lasted about one hour; damped the ground, and left deep puddles in + the rock-hollows. + Never had thunder and lightning in Midian. + + Mar. 7. 6a.m. 31.12 58 15 At Zibá, on box. Cold and clear. A few + clouds to west. + + 11.30a.m.29.96 74 19 At Jebel el Ghál, in shade in the open. + Fine west wind. + + Night and morning cold. On summit of Jebel el-Ghál, aneroid 29.75. + + Mar. 8. 6a.m. 30.04 51 11 At Máyat el-Ghál (camp), on box. + + March 8th is the 30th (last day of) Imshir (February), 1094. + March 9th is the 1st of Barmáhát (March). See Chap. I. p. 22. + In the early days of Barmáhát they expect the Husum or violent wind which + destroyed the tribe of Ad. + After seven nights and eight days begins the Bard el-Agúz, or "old man's + cold." + On Barmáhát 12 (March 20) is the Intikál el-Shams, or "vernal equinox;" after + which the weather becomes warmer. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD "MUKHBIR" IN SHARM YÁHÁRR, BETWEEN MARCH 8 AND + MARCH 12, 1878. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hygr. Remarks. + Inches. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.) + + Mar. 8. 12.40p.m.30.08 74 - - 18 Main cabin, Mukhbir. + + Mar. 9. 7a.m. 30.10 20 69 62 - In cabin. + + 12.30p.m.30.13 73 72 64 - Quite clear. Fresh sea-breeze. + + 3p.m. 30.11 75 74 64 - Clouds white and streaky + everywhere. + + In the evening clouds on hills and mountains, especially the SHÁRR; elsewhere + clear. Red sunset, grand. At night dew heavy on board Mukhbir; gunwales wet in + morning. Moon with kind of half halo round her. Night very hot—sign of coming + storm. + + At noon compared ship's (Mukhbir) + mercurial barometer ......................... 773 millimetres. + With my aneroid by Casella .................. 765 millimetres. + And (Mr. Duguid's) aneroide ................. 765 millimetres. + Difference .................................. -008 millimetres. + On December 19, 1877, ship's difference ..... +007 millimetres. + Difference .................................. +001 millimetres. + + Mar. 10. 6.30p.m. 30.12 73 69 61 - In cabin. Clouds on SHÁRR like + flights of birds, low-lying + banks to south. Morning + slightly muggy: no breeze. + + Noon. 30.12 76 75 60 - In cabin. Gentle sea-breeze. + Sky quite clear. + + 3p.m. 30.11 76 76 66 - Cool, pleasant sea-breeze. + + Fine night, pleasant and cool. + + Mar. 11. 6a.m. 30.10 73 68 65 - In cabin. Splendid morning. + + Noon. 30.10 - 80 64 - In cabin. Glorious day; sea- + breeze cool and fresh. + + 3.30p.m. 30.05 78 77 65 - In cabin. Sea-breeze lively + and strong. + + Mar. 12. 7a.m. 30.04 - 67 61 - In cabin. Warmish. Splendid + sunrise on SHÁRR; cold to + north, warmer tints in centre, + and glowing red-yellow flush + to south. + + 3p.m. 30.03 78 77 70 - In cabin. Fine cool sea- + breeze. + + Tides high and low (March) pier shows difference of three feet in rise, about + the midlength of Sharm Yáhárr. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING EXCURSION (SECOND MARCH) ON + AND AROUND THE SHÁRR MOUNTAIN, BETWEEN WEDNESDAY, + MARCH 18, AND MONDAY, MARCH 18, 1878. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The distance traversed comprised 59 miles. + + On return compared aneroids:— + French (left on board Mukhbir) .... 758 millimetres. + My Casella ........................ 756 " + Difference ........................ 002 " + + Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Hygr. Remarks. + Inches. (deg.)(deg.) + + Mar. 13. 6.20a.m. 29.96 66 23 On deck of Mukhbir. Cool land-breeze; hot + at nine a.m. Sea-breeze at 10.45. At Wady + Sanawiyyah aneroid 29.60. + + 3p.m. 29.26 82 13 Under tree (acacia, but shady). Grand sea- + breeze from one to three p.m. + + Warm night under the SHÁRR, stones retaining heat. Moon misty. Very heavy dew, + like rain; wetted boxes; saw for the first time inland. Will last for some + three months, and must greatly assist vegetation. + + Mar. 14. 6a.m. 29.30 68 28 In big tent. All the sky clouded over as + if rain coming. Sea-breeze 10.30. + + Noon. 29.60 88 28 Camp at Safh Wady Kusayb. Cloudy and + sultry all day. Little sun, except from + nine till eleven a.m. Rain-heat; seems to + threaten rain. + + 3p.m. 29.56 86 23 In big tent. Sultry-feels like storm. + + At night, violent storm of wind from north-east, with nasty warm gusts. The + people call it Sabáh, probably for Sabá, the "Zephyr"—the Bád-i-Sabá of + poetry; also El-Farawi, because it blows at night. Big tent down in a moment, + as at Makná. N.B.—No windstorm on the coast. At foot of Abú Sháar Pass, + aneroid 28.80; at foot of quartz-vein (wall), 28.50. + + Mar. 15. 6a.m. 29.50 76 1 In big tent at Safh Wady Kusayb, north- + east wind still blowing. No dew in + morning. + + 11.45a.m.29.22 93 -5 In Wady Surr. Curious windy cirri to west. + Wind blew itself out in Wady Surr. + Pleasant sea-breeze from south. + + 3p.m. 28.93 100 14 In big tent at Safhat el-Wúayrah, Wady + Surr. Cloudy. Wind from south, a deflected + sea-breeze. + + ASCENDING SHÁRR MOUNTAIN. + + Mar. 16. 6a.m. 29.86 70 2 On box outside tent. Morning grand; still, + clear, warm, and dry. At seven a.m., going + uphill, aneroid 28.20; at 7.35, half-way + up, 27.70. + + 9a.m. 26.83 63 3 + + Noon. 26.70 82 - Under rock. Pleasant sea-breeze from + north-east. Sun hot; day quite clear. + + 3p.m. 26.76 86 3 Shade of rock, summit of outlier. Strong + wind from west. + + Mean of two observations on summit of outlier, 26.79 = 3,200 feet above sea- + level. + + EN ROUTE TO THE COAST. + + Mar. 17. 9a.m. 28.36 80 3 Under tree. Very hot sun that tired all. + Breeze at 8.30 a.m. + + 11a.m. 28.76(?)93 - Same place. At summit of Pass el-Kuwayd, + aneroid 28.13; in Wady Kuwayd, 28.20. Very + small descent to 28.50, say 400 feet. + + 3.40p.m. 28.65 90 -9 In big tent. + + ON THE RETURN MARCH TO SHARM YÁHÁRR. + + Mar. 18. 4.20am 28.63 73 -4 Complete change of climate. No Khamsin to- + day. Fine sea-breeze in puffes at 9:30 + a.m.; came up strong about noon. + + 11.45am 29.43 91 5 Under tree in Wady el-Bayzá. + + On March 17th began what our Egyptians called the Khamsin, and the Arabs El- + Dufún (Bedawin, Dafún) generically; and specifically Dufún el-Suráyyá ("of the + Pleiades""). Sky dark without clouds. At night, yellow clouds over moon. Gusts + alternately hot and cold. Highly electrical; few could sleep at night. Tents + left open. It was followed by damp and gloomy weather, which the Arabs + attribute to the Intikál el-Shams ("vernal equinox"). This began on March + 19th, and lasted till the 22nd. Aneroid falls lower than we have yet seen it. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "SINNÁR," BETWEEN MARCH 18 AND MARCH + 20, 1878. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hygr. Remarks. + Inches. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.) + + Mar. 18. 3p.m. 29.91 84 - - 24 In main cabin. A few light + clouds. + + Mar. 19. 7a.m. 29.83 - 70 64 - Under deck awning. Morning + still, calm, and muggy. Clouds + everywhere. Presently cool + land-breeze came up. Regular + Khamsin at eight a.m. + + Noon. 29.80 - 79 71 - In captain's cabin. Cloudy and + cool. + + 3p.m. 29.76 - 79 70 - In captain's cabin. Afternoon + sultry. Wind Azyab, and from + south. Seems to threaten a + storm. Heavy clouds from west + and north-west. + + Mar. 20. 7a.m. 29.82 - 75 71 - In captain's cabin. Sultry, + "juicy" morning. + + Noon. 29.75 - 76 70 - Dark and cloudy. Cool wind + from south-west. + + 4p.m. 29.80 - 76 68 - In captain's cabin. Sultry + air; no breeze; nasty and + damp. Cloudy all over. A storm + somewhere (Alexandria? Suez?). + Swell on sea, breaking on + south reef; comes from north- + west. Weather looks like that + of Europe. + + About eight p.m. a cool draught from north. No moon or stars. Expect it to end + either in a gale or in heavy rain. It ended on morning of March 22nd, with a + fine north wind; and at 9.10 p.m. with slight earthquake. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "SINNÁR," DURING VOYAGE FROM SHARM + YÁHÁRR TO EL-WIJH, EL-HAURÁ, ETC., BETWEEN MARCH 21 AND MARCH 29, 1878. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hydg. Remarks. + Inches. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.) + + STEAMING SOUTH. + + Mar. 21. 7a.m. 29.76 - 75 71 - In captain's cabin. Aneroid + very low. Wind south-west. + Ugly, gloomy weather. + Mountains misty. Very slight + roll in sea—became heavy in + afternoon—mar vecchio (Bahr + madfún). Bursts of half sun + after nine a.m. + + 12.40p.m.29.84 - 77 71 - Aneroid rising. At noon sea + quite calm and oily. Shortly + after, sea-breeze from west + set in. About one p.m. made + sail; rolling began. More sun. + Sails down. At two p m. + rolling heavy, cross sea (mar + vecchio). + + 3.30p.m. 29.85 - 76 73 - Damp increases. + + After five p.m. sky clearer and weather finer, but still dark to south. Stars + veiled. + + IN MARSÁ DUMAYGHAH. + + Mar. 22. 6.15a.m. 29.92 - 73 66 - In cabin. Morning cool. Wind + north. Total change of + weather. Sky clear, except + cirri, and wind increased. + White "horses" outside. All + nature gay. + + Noon. 30.01 - 79 65 - In cabin. Damp disappeared. + + 3p.m. 30.90 - 74 64 - Fine, strong, bright sea- + breeze. North wind, + threatening to blow hard. + Cloudy and clear. Windy sky. + + At 9.10 p.m. earthquake from north to south; lasted twenty seconds; followed + by strong north wind, which lasted only a short time. So end the Equinoctials. + + Mar. 23. 6a.m. 30.00 - 70 61 - At Dumayghah. In cabin. + Glorious morning; cool, calm, + bright. Zephyr from north. At + noon a few wind-clouds and + cirri to north and west. Very + heavy rolling (mar vecchio) + from north-west. Long waves. + + 3p.m. 29.98 - 74 65 - At El-Wijh. Pleasant, cool + north wind. Afternoon cloudy + and cold, as if wind came + through rain. + + Cleared in the evening. Saw stars. + + AT EL-WIJH, IN PORT. + + Mar. 24. 5.45a.m. 29.94 - 71 68 - In cabin. Grey, cloudy + morning. No cold. + + 3p.m. 29.98 - 74 65 - In cabin. Fine north breeze. + Warm sun. Air cool. Wind- + clouds to east; the rest blue. + Sky wondrous clear. + + At 4.30 p.m. left El-Wijh, and steamed nearly due south-west. Fine breeze and + long waves from north-west. Wind and waves fell. Rolled horridly from seven + p.m. to midnight: no ballast; very bad steering: then turned south-east, and + movement somewhat improved. Very heavy dew. Zodiacal light clear. + + IN CABIN AT SEA. + + Mar. 25. 7.30 a.m.30.04 - 73 68 - Marvellous fine morning. Wind + north. Glorious day. + + 12.15p.m.30.01 - 75 64 - Near El-Haurá. Lovely day. + Steady north breeze. + + 4p.m. 29.97 - 77 69 - + + NEAR EL-HAURÁ. + + Mar. 26 6a.m. 29.94 70 - - 36 In cabin. Red morning, warm + and still. Sea oily. Light + mists. Venus throws shadow. + Very heavy dew—all wet. + + 12.15p.m.29.91 - 74 70 - Same place. Warm sun; cool + breeze from north. + + 3.20p.m. 29.87 - 78 74 - At sea. Cirri and wind-clouds + to east and nearly everywhere. + + Weather fine, yet glass falling. Damp air. Hence (possibly) many have colds, + coughs, and hoarseness. Wind-clouds, but clear to north. Dew very heavy. + + RETURNING NORTH TO EL-WIJH. + + Mar. 27. 7a.m. 29.87 - 73 68 - In captain's cabin Dew-clouds + everywhere. Air very damp. + + 11.45a.m.29.98 - 78 70 - Air still and pleasant. + + 3p.m. 29.85 - 78 72 - Day decidedly hot and damp. + Aneroid very low. + + Mar. 28. 6.30a.m. 29.89 - 70-1/2 68 - In cabin. Dew wetted tents and + decks like heavy shower. Sky + all dew; air feels soppy. + Violent wind from north-west. + Ship rolling. + + 1p.m. 29.97 - 70-1/2 67 - + + Mar. 29. 7a.m. 29.97 71 - - 33 In cabin. Strong, cold north + wind. Men coughing like cries + of camels. Sky very clear. + This kind of storm is called + Hawwá el-'Uwwah ("last storm + of March"), and blows fourteen + days. Followed by El-Ni'ám el- + Kabir ("greater"), and El- + Saghir ("less"); continues + forty days. + + 6p.m. 28.78 74 - - 30 At Fort El-Wijh, two hours' + journey up the valley. + + Fine day on seaboard—not much gale. Wind north-west. Night cool, but no dew. + Ship's barometer, 6 a.m., 30.7 Wind north-west. Ther. (F.) 64 deg. + Ship's barometer, noon, 30.7 Wind north-west. Ther. (F.) 76 deg. + Ship's barometer, 3 p.m., 30.7 Wind north-west. Ther. (F.) 76 deg. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING THIRD MARCH, FROM EL-WIJH TO EL-BADÁ AND BACK, + BETWEEN MARCH 30 AND APRIL 11, 1878. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Compared ship's (Sinnár) mercurial barometer, 30.07 (64 deg. F.), with + anerold, 30.01; difference, aneroid,—0.06. + + On return compared ship's (Sinnár) mercurial barometer, 29.99, with aneroid, + 29.86; difference, aneroid,—0.13. + + Date. Time. Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hydg. Remarks. + Inches. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.) + + Mar. 30. 5.30a.m. 29.70 64 - - 24 At Fort El-Wijh, on box before + tent. Cold and cloudy morning. + Moon and stars veiled. + + Noon. 29.55 90 - - 43 In camp at Umm el-Karáyát— + deep valley. Puffs of sea- + breeze from south. Strong sun. + + 3.15p.m. 29.50 86 - - 29 In big tent at Umm el-Karáyát- + -lat. 26 deg. 13'. Sun very + hot. Fresh and strong sea- + breeze from east (?). + + Cool and pleasant night. No sign of dew. Climate healthy. Garrison at Fort El- + Wijh in excellent condition. + + Mar. 31. 5a.m. 29.44 45 - - 19 In big tent at Umm el-Karáyát. + Very clear, still morning. + West pink. At sunrise wind, + and hot and cold puffs (south- + east and land-breeze). + + 11.10p.m.29.46 90 - - -3 At Wady el-Kubbah, under tree. + Very hot. Wind shifting from + east to west (sea-breeze). + Stones in sun so hot that they + cannot be held. At noon + regular Khamsin; air sandy. + + Top of Jebel el-Kubbah, aneroid 29.34; in valley below, aneroid 29.46 (47?); + height, 120 feet. + + 3p.m. 29.30 94 - - -20 At Máyat el-Dasnah. Hot west + wind. Thermometer in big tent, + unwalled. + + Night cool. + + April 1. " 29.30 63 - - -12 At Máyat el-Dasnah. Morning + pleasant, still, and quite + clear. No sign of dew or + Khamsin. Hygrometer + exceedingly dry. Sun rose hot. + Slight breeze from eight a.m. + to 8.30 a.m., when the rocks + and stones have become + thoroughly heated. Very + refreshing: cools head; stops + perspiration. + + 9.30a.m. 28.96 83 - - -10 At foot of Marú Rábigh, in + shade of rock. + + 12.30p.m.28.92 99 - - -8 At Marú Rábigh, under big tent + awning. About noon a medley of + winds; hot blasts of Khamsin + from south-west, suddenly + changed to north. + + 3p.m. 28.88 100 - - -25 At Marú Rábigh. Hot sun. Wind + in puffs, mostly south-west. + No sand in air. Stones in + sunshine too hot to hold; yet + there are flies. + + This is second day of Khamsin. Comes up about ten a.m.; wind either too much + or too little. At 2.5 p.m. nearly blew tent down. + + April 2. 5.10a.m. 28.98 70 - - -6 At foot of Marú Rubayyigh in + Wady Rábigh. Morning perfectly + still. All appearance of + Khamsin. Light horizontal + striae to north. + + Noon. 29.15 92 - - -18 At Abú Gezáz valley, under + tree. Much bothered by small + flies. + + 3.10p.m. 29.14 100 - - -25 In big tent, which was again + blown down. + + Third day of Khamsin. All animals weak and worn out. Wind comes up later— + 11.30 a.m. to noon. Gives feeling of faintness and awful thirst. "Devils" + (Zawábah) rose high in valley with electrical whirl. Evening lowering. Wind or + rain clouds from west and north. Night still and cool. Threatening clouds east + and west. + + April 3. 5a.m. 29.20 65 - - -13 At Abú Gezáz valley. Morning + cool (sign Khamsin gone). Sun + pleasant. Red wind-clouds to + north and east. At six a.m. + pleasant, cool land-breeze + from south. + + Noon. 28.80 90 - - -16 At El-Badá, under palm-tree. + Wind west. Milky sky, all + white. + + 3p.m. 28.75 95 - - -24 In big tent. Regular Khamsin— + very nasty. Clouds to west. + + Night still. Neither warm nor cool. climate fine. Colds and coughs + disappeared. + + AT EL-BADÁ. + + April 4. 5.30a.m. 28.70 68 - - -7 On box outside tent. Traces of + dew. White clouds. Looked + regularly like a Khamsin day. + + Noon. 28.74 90 - - 2 In big tent. No sun. Air + muggy. White gleams. View + poor; like rain. Strong blast + from south-west. Heavy clouds + west and north. Drops of rain + fell three times between one + p.m. and three p.m. + + 3p.m. 28.70 90 - - -8 + + At four p.m. in west a dust like general or prairie fire. A few drops of rain + fell at long intervals—could not catch any for photographs. Broad parallel + veins of white, red, and black cloud rising from east to west. Puffs of cold + wind came on, soon growing to blasts; then storm came down upon us. No thunder + or lightning. Kind of "dust-bow" in west (no rain), half the arc. Wind then + turned north and felt cold and rainy. Heavy cloud-bank to west. Forms of + mountains crept out of the brown and purple mist, half dust, half rain. All + enjoyed storm. No rain for two years has fallen here. Rainbows at El-'Akabah + (double) and at Shuwák (single). Cool and pleasant night, with dew. Mean of + six aneroid observations at El-Badá, 28.78. After leaving El-Badá mornings and + evenings delightful; sun warm in day; nights cool and pleasant. Dust at times. + + April 5. 4.30a.m. 28.65 - - - -8 In big tent at Badá. Dust + "devils." Great change after + rain. Very damp. + + 3p.m. 28.58 86 - - -3 At 'Ayn el-Kurr, under shade + of rock. Strong north wind. + + Though all prophesied Azyab or "south-easter," this was perhaps the finest of + all our days. Night cool. Cold wind at one a.m., of which all complained. + + April 6. 5.45a.m. 28.59 58 - - 6 At 'Ayn el-Kurr, on box + outside tent. White clouds to + south. No wind. False sea- + breeze at seven a.m.; true at + ten a.m. Cloudy forenoon. + + 11.45a.m.28.90 84 - - - In Wady el-Kurr. + + 3p.m. 28.87 87 - - -3 At Wady Laylah, in big tent. + Afternoon windy as usual. + Puffs from west (sea-breeze), + cold. Sky quite clear. + Mountains milky. + + Night cool, but not cold. + + April 7. 4.15a.m. 28.80 60 - - +5 In big tent at Wady Laylah. + Morning especially bright. + Lucifer like a little moon. + Breeze at eight a.m. + + Noon. 29.39 54 - - +2 Wady Birkat, under rock. Going + down seawards fast. Cool west + wind. Good sea-breeze. Sky and + sun clear—sun not unpleasant. + Hot in sheltered bends. + + 3.10p.m. 29.46 81 - - 4 At Abál-Ajáj, under tamarisks. + + Dew at night. + + April 8. 5a.m. 29.55 60 - - 27 Outside tent at Abál-Ajáj. + Cool morning; warmer at eight + a.m. before breeze set in. + + Noon. 29.94 83 - - 22 At the temple (El-Gasr), Wady + Hamz. Sand-dust with sea- + breeze, terrible at temple and + around it. Eyes filled, + clothes covered. Saw mirage— + well defined for first time. + + 3p.m. 29.90 52 - - 20 At Wady Hamz. Hygrometer damp + on account of sea-breeze. + + April 9. 4a.m. 29.92 70 - - 25 Still, clear, and beautiful, + like all these mornings. Hot + sun. Blue sea, glassy near the + shore. Puffs of wind from + east. + + Noon. 29.90 96 - - -8 In big tent at Wady Mismáh. + Cool breeze from north-cast. + Heat strongly reflected from + quartz. Vegetation dreadfully + dry; plants look dead. Two bad + years. + + 3p.m. 29.74 92 - - -18 In big tent at Abál-Marú. + Another nasty afternoon. High + west wind—sea-breeze, not + Khamsin; tent almost blown + down. Dust dreadful. + + Evening charming. Night admirably cool. + + April 10 4.20a.m. 29.74 - - - 0 In big tent at Abál-Marú. + Splendid morning; few striae + in east. Will be hot. + + 4.30p.m. 29.95 - 76 73 - On board Sinnár, captain's + cabin. Pleasant afternoon. + Cool sea-breeze. + + ON BOARD "SINNÁR." + + April 11.6a.m. 29.86 - 70 66 - In captain's cabin. Felt damp + strongly after the Desert. + + 12.30p.m.29.87 - 78 74 - All complaining of heat (white + heat); damp is the cause. No + sea-breeze to speak of. + + 3.15p.m. 29.83 - 79 75 - White clouds everywhere. + Curious wind-clouds, not a + little like comets. + + Heavy dew. Streets of El-Wijh wet. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STREAMER "SINNÁR," EN ROUTE FROM EL-WIJH TO + SUEZ, FROM APRIL 12 TO APRIL 17, 1878. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Date. Time. Aneroid Dry Wet Remarks. + Inches. Bulb. Bulb. + + April 12. 6.20 a.m. 29.89 78 73 En route to El-Muwaylah, captain's + cabin. Red sunrise. Clouds thin all + about horizon. Looks like regular + Khamsin day. Feels exceedingly damp. + + 12.20 p.m. 20.80 79 70 In dead calm. Sea oily, like mirror. + No winds. Thin white clouds + everywhere. + + 3.35 p.m. 29.78 81 76 In captain's cabin. Wretched day at + El-Wijh and ashore. Very muggy. + + At night a "bruch" (halo) of clouds round moon, and far from it. Expect + storm. "Bruchs" round moon on 13th, 14th, and 15th. + + April 13. Noon. 29.84 78 70 Anchored before El-Muwaylah. No dew + in morning, and clouds everywhere. + No sun seen. Very hot at noon. White + clouds everywhere. Smoke of steamer + hangs low. Mountains look very high. + Muggy. Fine drinkytite. + + 3 p.m. 29.80 83 73 At Sharm Yáhárr. Hot and sweaty. + Light west wind rose after noon; + soon fell. + + At night clouds and "bruch." Clear to north, thick to south. + + April 14. 6.30 a.m. 29.82 78 72 At Sharm Yáhárr. Nasty muggy + morning. Light north breeze set in. + + 12.40 p.m. 29.88 82 75 + + 3 p.m. 29.85 83 76 Warm and cloudy. + + Weather threatening. The same storm that found us at Makná last year. + + April 15. " - - - Water flooded pier, and waves broke + on shore. + + April 16. " - - - Ran to El-Muwaylah. Had to return to + Sharm Yáhárr. Furious wind from west + (Gharbi) began about nine a.m. + + April 17. Noon. 29.98 77 65 In captain's cabin, Sharm Yáhárr. + + 3 p.m. 29.92 76 65 + + Wind changed to north. Weather became cool and pleasant. Gale still, but + shows signs of abating. + + On April 18th weather somewhat abated. Stopped at El-Mawaylah to drop Sayyid + 'Abd el-Rahim; and steamed off for Suez, where we arrived on 20th. Voyage + very slow in teeth of north wind. Yet at Suez had had south wind for some + days, and congratulated us upon the fact. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + OBSERVATIONS TAKEN BY MR. DAVID DUGUID, BETWEEN JANUARY 8 AND FEBRUARY 1, 1878. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (He used the French aneroide and the Centigrade thermometer bought at Cairo.) + + Date. Time. Aneroid Thermometer Remarks. + Millimetres. Centigrade. + (deg.) + + Jan. 8. Noon. 768 25 At Sharmá camp. + + Jan. 9. Noon. 768 25 Ditto. + + Jan. 10. Noon. 761 26 Ditto. + + Jan. 11. Noon. 763 19 Ditto. + + Jan. 12. Noon. 763 19 Ditto. + + Jan. 13. Noon. 760 30 Ditto. Very hot. + + Jan. 14. Daylight 760 20 + (?) 755 25 Very hot. + 8 p.m. 758 23 + + Jan. 15. (?) 757 21 + (?) 757 25 Hot. + Nightfall 759 20 + + Jan. 16. Daylight 762 18 Mr. Duguid marched from Sharmá to El-Muwaylah. + + Jan. 17. Sunset. 768 25 On board Mukhbir at Sharm Yáhárr. + + Jan. 18. Sunrise. 766 22 On board Mukhbir. + (?) 766 23 Ditto. + Sunset. 764 28 Ditto. Hot. + + ON BOARD. + + Jan. 19. Sunrise. 763 21 + Noon. 762 25 + Sunset. 763 25 + + Jan. 20. Sunrise. 761 21 + Noon. 762 25 + Nightfall 762 28 Hot + + Jan. 21. Sunrise. 763 23 Bad weather at Sharm Yáhárr. + Noon. 763 24 + Sunset. 767 25 + + Jan. 22. Sunrise. 769 19 Mukhbir delayed by bad weather. + Noon. 768 24 + + Jan. 24. Noon. 767 24 + + Mr. Duguid steamed out of Yáhárr for Makná. Anchored off Sináfir Island. + + Jan. 25. Sunrise. 767 23 Reached Makná. + Noon. 766 24 + Sunset. 765 25 + + Jan. 26. Sunrise. 764 23 On board Mukhbir. + Noon. 763 27 + Sunset. 763 29 + + Jan. 27. Sunrise. 765 22 Ditto. + Noon. 763 23 + Sunset. 763 27 + + Jan. 28. Sunrise. 763 21 Ditto. + Noon. 762 24 + Sunset. 762 22 + + Jan. 29. Sunrise. 763 20 Ditto. + Noon. 762 22 + Sunset. 762 23 + + Jan. 30. Sunrise. 766 20 Ditto. + Noon. 764 24 + Sunset. 765 24 + + Jan. 31. Sunrise. 765 22 Ditto. + Noon. 764 23 + Sunset. 764 23 + + Feb. 1. Sunrise. 765 21 Ditto. + Noon. 764 22 +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "MUKHBIR," BY MR DAVID DUGUID (DURING OUR SECOND + JOURNEY), BETWEEN FEBRUARY 18 AND MARCH 8, 1878. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Date. Time. Aneroid Thermometer Remarks. + Millimetres. Centigrade. + (deg.) + + Feb. 18. 7 a.m. 764 18 Clear sky. Light breeze. + Noon. 763 23 Same weather. + 5 p.m. 764 23 Clear sky. Good breeze. + + Feb. 19. 7 a.m. 764 20 Clear sky. Light wind. + Noon. 764 23 Light wind. Few clouds in east. + 5 p.m. 764 24 Clear sky. Light wind. + + Feb. 20. 7 a.m. 765 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. + Noon. 765 21 Clear sky. Light north-west wind. + 5 p.m. 764 23 Clear sky. Light east wind. + + Feb. 21. 7 a.m. 765 20 White clouds all round. Light east wind. + Noon. 766 23 Few clouds to south. Light north-west wind. + + Feb. 22. 7 a.m. 765 20 Few clouds to east. Light west wind. + Noon. 764 22 Few clouds to east. Good north-west breeze. + 5 p.m. 764 22 Few clouds to west. Light north wind. + + Feb. 23. 7 a.m. 764 19 Clouds to south-west. No wind. + Noon. 765 21 Clouds to east. Light north-west wind. + 5 p.m. 765 22 Few clouds to east. Light north-west wind. + + Feb. 24. 7 a.m. 767 19 Clear sky. No wind. + Noon. 768 22 Clear sky. Light north wind. + 5 p.m. 768 24 Same weather. + + Feb. 25 7 a.m. 769 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. + Noon. 769 22 Clear sky. Light west wind. + 5 p.m. 768 24 Clear sky. No wind. + + Feb. 26. 7 a.m. 766 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. + 5 p.m. 766 20 Same weather. + + Feb. 27. 7 a.m. 762 20 Few clouds to south. Light north-east wind. + Noon. 762 23 Clear sky. Light north wind. + 5 p.m. 761 25 Clear sky. Light west wind. + + Feb. 28. 5.p.m. 764 23 Heavy clouds to west. Strong west wind. + + Mar. 1. 7 a.m. 767 20 Few clouds in south. Light north wind. + Noon. 767 23 Clear sky. Good north-west breeze. + 5 p.m. 765 22 Few clouds to west. Light wind from west. + + Mar. 2. 7 a.m. 765 20 Clouds all round. Light east wind. + Noon. 765 23 Clouds all round. Light west wind. + 5 p.m. 764 24 Clouds all round. Light north wind. + + Mar. 3. 7 a.m. 762 20 Few clouds to east. No wind. + Noon. 763 22 Few clouds to south. Good north-west breeze. + 5 p.m. 763 23 Few clouds to north. Good west breeze. + + Mar. 4. 7 a.m. 767 21 Clear sky. Light breeze from east. + Noon. 768 23 Clear sky. Light breeze from west. + 5 p.m. 767 24 Clear sky. Light breeze from north. + + Mar. 5. 7 a.m. 764 20 Clear sky. Light east wind. + Noon. 764 22 Clear sky. Good breeze from east. + 5 p.m. 762 25 Light clouds all round. North-west wind. + + Mar. 6. 7 a.m. 763 20 Heavy clouds to east. Light east wind. + Noon. 763 23 A few clouds to east. Light west wind. + 5 p.m. 762 24 Dark clouds all round. Strong west wind. At ten + p.m. gale from west, with some flashes of + lightning. + + Mar. 7. 7 a.m. 766 19 Clouds to south. Wind north. + Noon. 767 23 Clear sky. Good breeze from north-west. + 5 p.m. 766 24 Clear sky. Wind north. + + Mar. 8. 7 a.m. 763 19 Clear sky. Light east wind. + Noon. 763 23 Clear sky. Light west wind. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "MUKHBIR," BY MR. DAVID DUGUID (DURING OUR WEEK IN EL- + SHÁRR), BETWEEN MARCH 13 AND MARCH 19, 1878. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Date. Time. Aneroid Thermometer Remarks. + Millimetres. Centigrade. + (deg.) + + Mar. 13. 6 a.m. 762 25 Clear sky. Good breeze. Wind west. + Noon. 761 26 Clear sky. Light breeze. Wind west. + + Mar. 14. 6 a.m. 762 21 Light clouds all over. Wind east. Light breeze. + Noon. 764 24 Same cloudy weather, but wind from east (?). + 3 p.m. 763 26 Light clouds all round. Wind west and light. + + Mar. 15. 6 a.m. 762 21 A few clouds to south. Wind east and light. + Noon. 761 26 Light clouds all round. Moderate breeze from + west. + 3 p.m. 760 27-1/2 Same weather. + + Mar. 16. 6 a.m. 760 24 A few clouds to south. Light east wind. + Noon. 760 26 Clear sky. Wind south-west. Light breeze. + 3 p.m. 759 29 Clear sky. Wind west. Very light breeze. + + Mar. 17. 6 a.m. 759 24 Clear sky. Light breeze from east. + Noon. 760 26 Clear sky. Wind west. Very light breeze. + 3 p.m. 760 27 Same weather. + + Mar. 18. 6 a.m. 760 23 Same weather, by wind west. + Noon. - - Clear sky. Wind west. Very light breeze. + + Mar. 19. 6 a.m. 759 23 Few clouds to north. Wind east, and very light. + Noon. 758 19 Clouds to north-west. Good breeze from west. + 3 p.m. 758 29 Clouds all round. Wind south-west. Good breeze. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + OBSERVATIONS TAKEN ON BOARD SCREW-STEAMER "SINNÁR," BY CAPTAIN NÁSIR AHMED, BETWEEN MARCH 29 AND + APRIL 10, 1878. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Date. Time. Mercurial Thermometer. Remarks. + Barometer. Fahr. + + Mar. 29. 6 a.m. 30.7 64 + Noon. 30.7 76 + 3 p.m. 30.7 76 + + Mar. 30. 6 a.m. 30.00 61 White clouds to north-east. Wind north-east. + Noon. 30.05 77 + 3 p.m. 30.00 80 Air very damp from noon to sunset. Wind west. + + Mar. 31. 6 a.m. 29.9 63 Wind north-east. Never saw barometer so low. + Noon. 30.00 80 Dry and fine. + 3 p.m. 29.98 82 + + April 1. 6 a.m. 29.94 66 Wind east. Fine day. + Noon. 29.95 83 + 3 p.m. 29.92 83 Damp from noon to sunset. + + April 2. 6 a.m. 29.90 68 Wind east. Fine day. + Noon. 30.00 80 Damp. + 3 p.m. 29.90 81 Red clouds at sunset. + + Gale of wind at El-Wijh from north-east, began at seven p.m. Ship under shelter. Rain for half + an hour. + + April 3. 6 a.m. 30.00 69 Wind north. + Noon. 30.20 80 Damp. + 3 p.m. 30.00 79 Wind north-west at sunset. + + April 4. 6 a.m. 30.00 73 Wind north-west. + Noon. 30.03 76 Wind north-west all day. + 3 p.m. 30.00 77 + + Storm on seaboard. Heavy clouds, wind, and gale all day from north-west. Sinnár rolling. + + April 5. 6 a.m. 29.93 66 Wind north-west. + Noon. 30.00 76 Wind north-west. + 3 p.m. 30.00 75 Fine day. + + April 6. 6 a.m. 29.93 62 Wind north. + Noon. 30.00 74 Wind north-west. + 3 p.m. 30.00 74 Same weather. + + April 7. 6 a.m. 29.94 64 Wind north. + Noon. 30.00 79 Fine day. + 3 p.m. 30.00 76 Wind north-west from noon to sunset. Fine weather. + + April 8. 6 a.m. 30.02 61 Wind east. + Noon. 30.04 73 Fine day. + 3 p.m. 30.04 78 From noon to sunset, fine but damp. + + April 9. 6 a.m. 30.04 68 Wind east. + Noon. 30.06 77 + 3 p.m. 30.06 81 Damp from noon to sunset. + + April 10. 6 a.m. 30.06 64 Wind north. Fine day. Damp and north-west wind + from noon to sunset. + + CAIRO. + + Reaching Cairo, I found Dr. T. E. Maclean from Thebes, with good instruments. He kindly compared + mine with his, and gave me the following results:—The difference between my aneroid (Casella) + and his is very slight, varying generally from 0.05 to -0.10. He advises me to neglect this + slight difference. The dry bulb is, on the whole, a little higher than his; and we have not + sufficient observations for the wet bulb. The pocket thermometer wants correction; it reads from + +1 deg. to +2 deg. 15'. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + LIST OF OBSERVATIONS. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + N&Z = Negretti and Zambra + No obs. = No observation. + + Date. Time. N&Z's My Differ- Casellás Differ- N&Z's Casellás Differ- N&Z's Casellás Differ- + (1878) standard Casella. ence for portable ence for dry bulb. dry bulb. ence. wet wet ence for + aneroid. correc- thermo- correc- No. bulb. bulb. correc- + No.1140. tions. meter tions. 39,518. tions. + (deg.). + + April 28. 12.30p.m. No obs. No obs. - 91 -1.6 89.4 90.0 -0.6 71.75 71.0 +0.75 + 3p.m. No obs. No obs. - 84 -2.1 81.9 82.5 -0.6 69.0 69.0 0.0 + 6.30p.m. No obs. No obs. - 73 -2.5 70.5 71.0 -0.5 61.0 61.0 0.0 + + April 29. 9a.m. No obs. No obs. - 69 -2.4 66.6 67.0 -0.4 59.1 59.0 +0.1 + 11.30p.m. 29.796 29.850 -.054 77.5 -2.0 75.5 76.0 -0.5 63.5 64.0 -0.5 + 3p.m. 29.755 29.752 +.003 77.5 -1.5 76.0 76.0 0.0 62.75 62.0 -0.75 + + April 30. 9a.m. 29.828 29.850 -.022 67.5 -2.15 65.0 66.0 -1.0 59.5 60.5 -1.0 + 12.30p.m. 29.822 29.850 -.028 76 -1.5 74.5 75.0 -0.5 63.75 63.5 +0.25 + 3p.m. 29.799 29.802 -.003 77 -2.0 75.0 73.5 -0.5 64.0 58.0 +1.5 + + May 1. 9a.m. 29.959 30.100 -.141 66.5 -1.75 64.75 65.5 -0.75 57.5 58.0 -0.5 + 12.30p.m. 29.945 29.952 -.007 76 -2.5 73.5 74.5 -1.0 61.5 62.0 -0.5 + 3p.m. 29.984 29.902 +.082 77.5 -1.75 75.75 76.5 -0.75 61.75 61.5 +0.25 + + May 2. 9a.m. 30.051 30.102 -.051 66 -1.25 64.75 65.0 -0.25 58.0 58.5 -0.5 + 12.30p.m. 29.978 30.000 -.022 78 -2.0 76.0 76.0 0.0 63.0 66.5 -2.5 + 3p.m. 29.936 29.950 -.014 78 -1.5 76.5 No obs. - 63.75 No obs. - + + May 3. 9a.m. 29.961 29.952 +.009 71.5 -1.5 70.0 No obs. - 58.5 No obs. - + 12.30p.m. 29.880 29.900 -.020 83 -2.5 80.5 81.0 -0.5 63.23 62.0 +1.25 + 3p.m. 29.820 29.850 -.030 83 -1.1 81.9 82.5 -0.6 62.0 62.5 -0.5 + + May 4. 9a.m. 29.716 29.750 -.024 71.5 -1.25 70.25 71.0 -0.75 63.25 63.0 +0.25 + 12.30p.m. 29.679 29.700 -.021 89.5 -1.25 87.75 88.0 -0.25 70.25 69.5 +0.75 + 3.30p.m. 29.617 29.650 -.033 89.5 -1.0 88.5 89.0 -0.5 70.0 69.0 +1.0 + + May 5. 9.30a.m. 29.586 29.600 -.014 76.5 -1.5 75.0 No obs. - No obs.No obs. - + 12.30p.m. No obs. No obs. - 83 -2.0 81.0 82.0 -1.0 69.75 68.5 +1.25 + 3p.m. 29.603 29.602 -.001 82 -1.5 80.5 81.0 -0.5 69.0 67.0 +2.0 + + May 6. 9a.m. 29.780 29.800 -.020 70 -1.75 68.25 69.0 -0.75 63.0 63.0 0.0 + 12.30p.m. 29.785 29.800 -.015 77 -2.0 75.0 76.0 -1.0 65.25 65.0 +0.25 + 3p.m. 29.778 29.800 -.022 79 -2.0 77.0 77.5 -0.5 67.5 66.0 +1.5 + + May 7. 9a.m. 29.854 29.850 +.004 67 -2.0 65.0 66.0 -1.0 60.75 61.0 -0.25 + 12.30p.m. 29.822 29.802 -.020 80.5 -1.5 79.0 79.0 0.0 66.0 65.0 +1.0 +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_FOOT" id="link2H_FOOT"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + FOOTNOTES: + </h2> + <p> + <a name="linknote-1" id="linknote-1"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 1 (<a href="#linknoteref-1">return</a>)<br /> [ The word is explained in my + "Itineraries," part ii. sect. 3.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-2" id="linknote-2"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 2 (<a href="#linknoteref-2">return</a>)<br /> [ See Appendix IV. "Botanical + Notes."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-3" id="linknote-3"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 3 (<a href="#linknoteref-3">return</a>)<br /> [ "Opens," i.e. the door for + a higher price: it is the usual formula of refusing to sell.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-4" id="linknote-4"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 4 (<a href="#linknoteref-4">return</a>)<br /> [ Chap. XVI.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-5" id="linknote-5"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 5 (<a href="#linknoteref-5">return</a>)<br /> [ The Saturday Review, in a + courteous notice of my first volume (May 25, 1878), has the following + remarks:—"The Arabs talk of some (?) Nazarenes, and a 'King of the + Franks,' having built the stone huts and the tombs in a neighbouring + cemetery ('Aynúnah). But there can be no local tradition worth repeating + in this instance." Here we differ completely; and those will agree with me + who know how immutable and, in certain cases, imperishable Arab tradition + is. The reviewer, true, speaks of North Midian, where all the tribes, + except the Beni 'Ukbah, are new. Yet legend can survive the destruction + and disappearance of a race: witness the folk-traditions of the + North-Eastern Italians and the adjacent Slavs. Here, however, in South + Midian we have an ancient race, the Baliyy. And what strengthens the + Christian legend is that it is known to man, woman, and child throughout + the length and breadth of the land.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-6" id="linknote-6"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 6 (<a href="#linknoteref-6">return</a>)<br /> [ In Sinai "Shinnár" is also + applied to a partridge, but I am unable to distinguish the species—caccabis, + Desert partridge, (Ammoperdix heyi, the Arab Hajl), or the black partridge + (Francolinus vulgaris).] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-7" id="linknote-7"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 7 (<a href="#linknoteref-7">return</a>)<br /> [ Chap. IX. has already + noticed Ptolemy's short measure.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-8" id="linknote-8"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 8 (<a href="#linknoteref-8">return</a>)<br /> [ Chap. XVII.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-9" id="linknote-9"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 9 (<a href="#linknoteref-9">return</a>)<br /> [ Helix desertorum (Forsk.) + and Helix (sp. incert.)] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-10" id="linknote-10"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 10 (<a href="#linknoteref-10">return</a>)<br /> [ See "The Gold Mines of + Midian,'' Chap. II.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-11" id="linknote-11"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 11 (<a href="#linknoteref-11">return</a>)<br /> [ So in Moab the ruins of + "Méron" or Mérou of the Greeks has degenerated into Umm Rasás, "the Mother + of Lead."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-12" id="linknote-12"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 12 (<a href="#linknoteref-12">return</a>)<br /> [ Their names will be given + in Chap. XIII.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-13" id="linknote-13"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 13 (<a href="#linknoteref-13">return</a>)<br /> [ A. G., p. 24. See "The + Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. XI. Sprenger spells the word either with a + Zád or a Zá: I have discussed the question in my "Itineraries," part ii. + sect. 4.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-14" id="linknote-14"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 14 (<a href="#linknoteref-14">return</a>)<br /> [ See the end of this + Chapter for a list.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-15" id="linknote-15"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 15 (<a href="#linknoteref-15">return</a>)<br /> [ See Chap. XIV.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-16" id="linknote-16"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 16 (<a href="#linknoteref-16">return</a>)<br /> [ "Irwin's Voyage," 1777.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-17" id="linknote-17"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 17 (<a href="#linknoteref-17">return</a>)<br /> [ This was probably a + misprint originally, but it has been repeated in subsequent editions. + Hence it imposed upon even such careful workmen as the late Lieutenant + Henry Raper, "The Practice of Navigation," etc., p. 527, 6th edition.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-18" id="linknote-18"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 18 (<a href="#linknoteref-18">return</a>)<br /> [ See an excellent + description of the phenomenon in that honest and courageous work, "Through + Bosnia and the Herzegovina on Foot," by Arthur J. Evans, B.A., F.S.A. + London: Longmans, 1877.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-19" id="linknote-19"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 19 (<a href="#linknoteref-19">return</a>)<br /> [ There is, however, + nothing to prevent its being eaten.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-20" id="linknote-20"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 20 (<a href="#linknoteref-20">return</a>)<br /> [ See Chap. X.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-21" id="linknote-21"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 21 (<a href="#linknoteref-21">return</a>)<br /> [ Chap. X.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-22" id="linknote-22"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 22 (<a href="#linknoteref-22">return</a>)<br /> [ Not to be confounded with + the luguminous "Tanúb" mentioned by Forskâl ("Flora," etc., p. 197).] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-23" id="linknote-23"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 23 (<a href="#linknoteref-23">return</a>)<br /> [ The word classically + means the cypress or the juniper-tree: in Jeremiah, where it occurs twice + (xvii. 6 and xlviii. 6), the Authorized Version renders it by "heath." It + is now generally translated "savin" (Juniperus sabina), a shrub whose + purple berries have a strong turpentine flavour. When shall we have a + reasonable version of Hebrew Holy Writ, which will retain the original + names of words either untranslatable or to be translated only by + guess-work?] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-24" id="linknote-24"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 24 (<a href="#linknoteref-24">return</a>)<br /> [ In Cairo generally called + Espadrilles, and sold for 1.25 francs. Nothing punishes the feet at these + altitudes so much as leather, black leather.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-25" id="linknote-25"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 25 (<a href="#linknoteref-25">return</a>)<br /> [ The explorers laid this + down at a few hundred feet. But they judged from the eye; and probably + they did not sight the true culmination. Unfortunately, and by my fault, + they were not provided with an aneroid.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-26" id="linknote-26"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 26 (<a href="#linknoteref-26">return</a>)<br /> [ See Chap. V.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-27" id="linknote-27"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 27 (<a href="#linknoteref-27">return</a>)<br /> [ For the usual + interpretations see Chapter I. The Egyptians, like other nations, often + apply their own names, which have a meaning, to the older terms which have + become unintelligible. Thus, near Cairo, the old goddess, Athor el-Núbí + ("of the Gold"), became Asr el-Nabi ("the Footprint of the Apostle").] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-28" id="linknote-28"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 28 (<a href="#linknoteref-28">return</a>)<br /> [ "The Gold-Mines of + Midian," Chap. XI.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-29" id="linknote-29"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 29 (<a href="#linknoteref-29">return</a>)<br /> [ See Chap. XI.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-30" id="linknote-30"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 30 (<a href="#linknoteref-30">return</a>)<br /> [ Chap. XII.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-31" id="linknote-31"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 31 (<a href="#linknoteref-31">return</a>)<br /> [ Chap XV.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-32" id="linknote-32"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 32 (<a href="#linknoteref-32">return</a>)<br /> [ Chap. XV.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-33" id="linknote-33"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 33 (<a href="#linknoteref-33">return</a>)<br /> [ Vol. ii. Chap. X. I have + also quoted him in "The Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. VI.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-34" id="linknote-34"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 34 (<a href="#linknoteref-34">return</a>)<br /> [ My "Pilgrimage" (Vol. I. + Chap. XI.) called it "Sherm Damghah": it is the "Demerah" of Moresby and + the "Demeg" of 'Ali Bey el-'Abbási (the unfortunate Spaniard Badia).] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-35" id="linknote-35"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 35 (<a href="#linknoteref-35">return</a>)<br /> [ See "The Gold-Mines of + Midian," Chap. VII.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-36" id="linknote-36"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 36 (<a href="#linknoteref-36">return</a>)<br /> [ The old being the + classical (Iambia Vicus), in north lat. 24°. This is Yambú' el-Nakhil, in + Ptolemy's time a seaport, now fifteen miles to the north-east (north lat. + 24° 12' 3"?) of the modern town. The latter lies in north lat. 24° 5' 30" + (Wellsted, ii. II), and, according to the Arabs, six hours' march from the + sea.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-37" id="linknote-37"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 37 (<a href="#linknoteref-37">return</a>)<br /> [ Vol. I. pp. 364, 365.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-38" id="linknote-38"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 38 (<a href="#linknoteref-38">return</a>)<br /> [ "The Gold-Mines of + Midian," Chap. IX.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-39" id="linknote-39"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 39 (<a href="#linknoteref-39">return</a>)<br /> [ Chap. VI. describes one + of the sporadic (?) outcrops near Tayyib Ism; and Chap. IX notices the + apparently volcanic sulphur-mount near El-Muwaylah.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-40" id="linknote-40"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 40 (<a href="#linknoteref-40">return</a>)<br /> [ See Chap. IX.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-41" id="linknote-41"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 41 (<a href="#linknoteref-41">return</a>)<br /> [ "The Gold-Mines of + Midian," Chap. XII.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-42" id="linknote-42"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 42 (<a href="#linknoteref-42">return</a>)<br /> [ See "The Gold-Mines of + Midian," Chap. VIII.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-43" id="linknote-43"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 43 (<a href="#linknoteref-43">return</a>)<br /> [ "Pilgrimage," Vol. I. + Chap. XI.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-44" id="linknote-44"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 44 (<a href="#linknoteref-44">return</a>)<br /> [ In "The Gold Mines of + Midian" (Chap. IV.) I unconsciously re-echoed the voice of the vulgar + about "the harbour being bad and the water worse" at El-Wijh.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-45" id="linknote-45"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 45 (<a href="#linknoteref-45">return</a>)<br /> [ This style of writing + reminds me of the inch allah (Inshallah!) in the pages of a learned "war + correspondent"—a race whose naive ignorance and whose rare + self-sufficiency so completely perverted public opinion during the + Russo-Turkish war of 1877-78.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-46" id="linknote-46"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 46 (<a href="#linknoteref-46">return</a>)<br /> [ Not Shaykh Hasan + el-Marábit—"Pilgrimage," Vol. I. Chap. XI.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-47" id="linknote-47"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 47 (<a href="#linknoteref-47">return</a>)<br /> [ "Pilgrimage," Vol. I. + Chap. XI., where it is erroneously called "Jebel Hasan;" others prefer + Hasa'ni—equally wrong. Voyagers put in here to buy fish, which + formerly was dried, salted, and sent to Egypt; and, during the Hajj + season, the Juhaynah occupy a long straggling village of huts on the south + side of the island.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-48" id="linknote-48"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 48 (<a href="#linknoteref-48">return</a>)<br /> [ There are now no less + than three lines of steamers that connect the western coast of Arabia with + the north. The first is the Egyptian Company, successively called + Mejidíyyah, Azízíyyah, and Khedivíyyah, from its chief actionnaire: the + packets, mostly three-masted screws, start from Suez to Jeddah every + fortnight. Secondly, the Austro-Hungarian Lloyd which, with the subvention + of £1400 per voyage, began in 1870 to ply monthly between Constantinople, + Port Sa'íd, Suez, Jeddah, and Hodaydah: it has been suspended since the + beginning of the Russo-Turkish war. Thirdly, the British India Steam + Navigation Company sends every three weeks a ship from London viâ the + Canal to Jeddah, Hodaydah, and Aden. A fourth is proposed; Bymen's + (Winan's?) steamers are establishing a London-Basrah (Bassorah) line, in + whose itinerary will be Jeddah.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-49" id="linknote-49"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 49 (<a href="#linknoteref-49">return</a>)<br /> [ The observation was taken + on board the Sinnár, by the first lieutenant Násir Effendi Ahmed: of + course I am not answerable for its correctness, although the latitude + cannot be far out. Thus the difference of parallel between it and El-Wijh + (north lat. 26° 14') would be sixty-eight direct geographical miles.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-50" id="linknote-50"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 50 (<a href="#linknoteref-50">return</a>)<br /> [ Beni Kalb: so the Juhaynah + were called in the Apostle's day.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-51" id="linknote-51"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 51 (<a href="#linknoteref-51">return</a>)<br /> [ The site was probably + near the Shaykh's tomb, where there are wells which in winter supply + water.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-52" id="linknote-52"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 52 (<a href="#linknoteref-52">return</a>)<br /> [ This is the volume which + I have translated: see also Dr. Beke's papers in the Athenæum (February 8 + and 15, 1873).] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-53" id="linknote-53"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 53 (<a href="#linknoteref-53">return</a>)<br /> [ See "Mount Sinai a + Volcano" (Tinsleys). For a list of Yakut's volcanoes, see Dr. Beke, "Sinai + in Arabia," Appendix, p. 535.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-54" id="linknote-54"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 54 (<a href="#linknoteref-54">return</a>)<br /> [ Vol. II. p. 187.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-55" id="linknote-55"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 55 (<a href="#linknoteref-55">return</a>)<br /> [ "The Gold-Mines of + Midian," p. 213.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-56" id="linknote-56"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 56 (<a href="#linknoteref-56">return</a>)<br /> [ As regards these and + similar graffiti see (Athenaeum, March 16, 1878) an excerpt from the last + Comptes Rendues of the Acad. des Inscript. et B. Lettres, Paris. The + celebrated M. Joseph Halévy attacked in their entirety (about 680) the + rock-writings in the Safá desert, south-east of Damascus. The German + savants, mostly attributing them to the Sabá tribes, who immigrated from + Yemen about our first century, tried the Himyaritic syllabaries and + failed. M. Halévy traces them to the Beni Tamúd (Thamudites), who served + as mercenaries in the Roman army, and whose head-quarters we are now + approaching. They contain, according to him, mostly proper names, with + devotional formulae, similar to those of the Sinaitic inscriptions and the + Kufic and later epigraphs which we discovered. For instance, "By A., son + of B., in memory of his mother; he has accomplished his vow, may he be + pardoned." The language is held to be intermediate between Arabic and the + northern Semitic branches. Names of the Deity (El and Loo or La'?) are + found only in composition, as in Abd-El ("Abdallah, slave of El"); and the + significant absence of the cross and religious symbols remarked in the + Syrian inscriptions, denotes the era of heathenism, which lasted till the + establishment of Christianity, about the end of the third century. "At + that time," M. Halévy says, "Christianity became the official religion of + the Empire; doubt and scepticism penetrated amongst those Arabic tribes + which were the allies of Rome, and amongst whom, for a certain time, a + kind of vague Deism was prevalent until the day when they disappeared, + having been absorbed by the great migrations which had taken place in + those countries."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-57" id="linknote-57"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 57 (<a href="#linknoteref-57">return</a>)<br /> [ Some call it so; others + Umm Karáyát: I have preferred the former—"Mother of the Villages," + not "of Villages"—as being perhaps the more common.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-58" id="linknote-58"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 58 (<a href="#linknoteref-58">return</a>)<br /> [ See Chap. XIX.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-59" id="linknote-59"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 59 (<a href="#linknoteref-59">return</a>)<br /> [ Vol. II. Chap. X.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-60" id="linknote-60"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 60 (<a href="#linknoteref-60">return</a>)<br /> [ This rock, assayed in + England, produced no precious metal. As has been said, gold was found in + its containing walls of quartz.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-61" id="linknote-61"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 61 (<a href="#linknoteref-61">return</a>)<br /> [ This is the valley + confounded by Wallin and those who followed him (e.g. Keith Johnston) with + the Wady Hamz, some forty miles to the south.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-62" id="linknote-62"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 62 (<a href="#linknoteref-62">return</a>)<br /> [ See the illustration, + "Desert of the Exodus," p. 306.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-63" id="linknote-63"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 63 (<a href="#linknoteref-63">return</a>)<br /> [ Vol. II. Chap. X.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-64" id="linknote-64"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 64 (<a href="#linknoteref-64">return</a>)<br /> [ Described in "The + Gold-Mines of Midian," Chap. XII.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-65" id="linknote-65"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 65 (<a href="#linknoteref-65">return</a>)<br /> [ Chap. XVIII.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-66" id="linknote-66"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 66 (<a href="#linknoteref-66">return</a>)<br /> [ The barbarous names, + beginning from the west, are Jebels Sehayyir, 'Unká ("of the griffon"), + Marákh (name of a shrub), Genayy (Jenayy), El-Hazzah, El-Madhanah, + Buza'mah, and Urnuwah.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-67" id="linknote-67"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 67 (<a href="#linknoteref-67">return</a>)<br /> [ Dr. C. Carter Blake + examined the four brought home, and identified No. 1, superior pharyngeal + bone and teeth (Scarus); No. 2, inferior bone and teeth of a large fish + allied to Labrus or Chrysophrys; No. 3, left side, pre-maxillary, possibly + same species; and No. 4, lower right mandible of Sphœrodon grandoculis, + Rüppell.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-68" id="linknote-68"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 68 (<a href="#linknoteref-68">return</a>)<br /> [ The MS. of this + geographer was brought to light by Professor Sprenger, and Part I. has + been published by Professor de Goeje in his "Bibliotheca Geographarum + Arabicorum," here alluded to.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-69" id="linknote-69"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 69 (<a href="#linknoteref-69">return</a>)<br /> [ We have seen (Chap. II.) + that the Arabs of Midian mistake iron for antimony; and the same is the + case in the Sinaitic Peninsula.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-70" id="linknote-70"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 70 (<a href="#linknoteref-70">return</a>)<br /> [ Ahmed Kaptán's solar + observation.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-71" id="linknote-71"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 71 (<a href="#linknoteref-71">return</a>)<br /> [ Written in pleasant + memory of two visits to Uriconium, the favourite "find" of poor Thomas + Wright, under the guidance of our steadfast and hospitable friend, Mr. + Henry Wace, of Brooklands, Shrewsbury.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-72" id="linknote-72"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 72 (<a href="#linknoteref-72">return</a>)<br /> [ The capital was also + transported to Cairo; it could not have been voluted as there were only + two projections.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-73" id="linknote-73"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 73 (<a href="#linknoteref-73">return</a>)<br /> [ Lib. xvi. c. iv. § 24. + The MSS. differ in the name of the "village situated on the sea;" some + call it Egra, others Negra, after the inland settlement; and the + commentator Kramer remarks, Mire corrupta est h?c ultima libri pars.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-74" id="linknote-74"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 74 (<a href="#linknoteref-74">return</a>)<br /> [ North lat. 26°, which + would correspond with that of the Abá'l-Maru' ruins.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-75" id="linknote-75"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 75 (<a href="#linknoteref-75">return</a>)<br /> [ My friend Sprenger + strongly protests against Ælius Gallus, begging me to abandon him, as the + Romans must long have held the whole coast to El-Haurá, their chief + settlement.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-76" id="linknote-76"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 76 (<a href="#linknoteref-76">return</a>)<br /> [ For a specimen of the + superficiality which characterizes Lane's "Modern Egyptians," and of the + benefits which, despite the proverbial difficulty of changing an old book + into a new one, an edition, much enlarged and almost rewritten, would + confer upon students, see Vol. III. Chap. XXI. Instead of a short abstract + of all this celebrated story, we have only popular excerpts from the first + volume.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-77" id="linknote-77"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 77 (<a href="#linknoteref-77">return</a>)<br /> [ On the maritime road + between Meccah and El-Medínah, celebrated for the apostolic battle which + took place in A.H. 2.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-78" id="linknote-78"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 78 (<a href="#linknoteref-78">return</a>)<br /> [ The names marked with + interrogations are unknown to all the Arabs whom I consulted : they are + probably obsolete.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-79" id="linknote-79"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 79 (<a href="#linknoteref-79">return</a>)<br /> [ Identified by Niebuhr and + Wellsted with certains ruins south of Yambú'. See Chap. IV.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-80" id="linknote-80"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 80 (<a href="#linknoteref-80">return</a>)<br /> [ The straight path, the + highway to Egypt or Cairo.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-81" id="linknote-81"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 81 (<a href="#linknoteref-81">return</a>)<br /> [ Elsewhere called Sukyat + Yezíd, a name now forgotten.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-82" id="linknote-82"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 82 (<a href="#linknoteref-82">return</a>)<br /> [ I have remarked that the + name of the Patriarch Jacob is no longer connected with the Badá plain.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-83" id="linknote-83"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 83 (<a href="#linknoteref-83">return</a>)<br /> [ Schweinfurth (the + Athenæum, July 6, 1878) speaks of a "Wadi Abu Marwa ('Quartz Valley')" + south of the Galalah block.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-84" id="linknote-84"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 84 (<a href="#linknoteref-84">return</a>)<br /> [ Chap. IX.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-85" id="linknote-85"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 85 (<a href="#linknoteref-85">return</a>)<br /> [ A paper describing our + "finds" was read before the Anthropological Section of the British + Association Meeting at Dublin on August 21, 1878, and subsequently before + the Anthropological Institute of London (December 10, 1878).] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-86" id="linknote-86"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 86 (<a href="#linknoteref-86">return</a>)<br /> [ The following was the + announcement offered to the public:— + </p> + <p class="foot"> + "La collection minéralogique et archéologique rapportée par le Capitaine + Burton, de sa seconde Expédition au pays de Midian, est exposée dans les + salles de l'Hippodrome, avant d'être envoyée à l'Exposition Universelle de + Paris, sous la direction de M. G. Marie, inge'nieur des mines. + </p> + <p class="foot"> + "La salle du sud renferme les croquis et les aquarelles faits par M. E. + Lacaze. + </p> + <p class="foot"> + "La partie du nord commence avec Akabah, point extrême atteint par + l'Expédition; elle contient les résultats du premier voyage de + l'Expédition, c'est-à-dire: Shermá, Djebel el-Abiat, Aynouneh, + Moghair-Schuaib, Mokna et Akabah. + </p> + <p class="foot"> + "Le mur de l'est contient tout ce qui se rapporte à la seconde + exploration, c'est-à-dire l'Hismá et le grand massif du Shárr. + </p> + <p class="foot"> + "Le mur du sud contient les principaux points de vue pris au sud du pays + de Midian: Wedje, la forteresse, la montagne de Omm-el-Karáyát, travaillée + par les anciens, la mine de Omm el-Hárab, le temple antique, etc., etc. + </p> + <p class="foot"> + "Sur la table sont les médailles et la collection anthropologique fait par + le Capitaine Burton. + </p> + <p class="foot"> + "La salle du nord contient la collection géologique et minéralogique faite + par M. G. Marie; les minéraux sont classés suivant l'ordre des pays + parcourus, c'est-à-dire en commencant à Akabah et finissant au Ouadi Hamz, + frontière du Hedjaz. + </p> + <p class="foot"> + "Tout autour de la salle sont rangées les vingt caisses contenant des + échantillons que Son Altesse le Khédive envoie en Angleterre pour y être + analysés. Près de la porte de l'est sont placés les restes du temple de + l'Ouadi Hamz, les moulins pour écraser le quartz, les briques + réfractaires, et enfin les inscriptions Nabathéennes. + </p> + <p class="foot"> + "Dans les loges de l'Hippodrome, derrière les deux salles, sont déposés + environ quinze tonnes d'échantillons, destinès a être analysés par une + Commission locale, nommée par Son Altesse le Khédive."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-87" id="linknote-87"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 87 (<a href="#linknoteref-87">return</a>)<br /> [ M. Marie, £35 12s.; Haji + Wali, £23; M. Philipin, £12 4s.; M. Lacaze, £3 16s.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-88" id="linknote-88"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 88 (<a href="#linknoteref-88">return</a>)<br /> [ Starting with a hundred + camels and three Shaykhs.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-89" id="linknote-89"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 89 (<a href="#linknoteref-89">return</a>)<br /> [ For all hands.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-90" id="linknote-90"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 90 (<a href="#linknoteref-90">return</a>)<br /> [ Includes "bakhshísh."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-91" id="linknote-91"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 91 (<a href="#linknoteref-91">return</a>)<br /> [ Sixty-one camels, four + Shaykhs.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-92" id="linknote-92"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 92 (<a href="#linknoteref-92">return</a>)<br /> [ For all hands.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-93" id="linknote-93"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 93 (<a href="#linknoteref-93">return</a>)<br /> [ Fifty camels, three + Shaykhs.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-94" id="linknote-94"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 94 (<a href="#linknoteref-94">return</a>)<br /> [ For all hands.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-95" id="linknote-95"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 95 (<a href="#linknoteref-95">return</a>)<br /> [ Got from Mukhbir.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-96" id="linknote-96"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 96 (<a href="#linknoteref-96">return</a>)<br /> [ Fifty-eight camels, three + Shaykhs.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-97" id="linknote-97"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 97 (<a href="#linknoteref-97">return</a>)<br /> [ For all hands.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-98" id="linknote-98"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 98 (<a href="#linknoteref-98">return</a>)<br /> [ Includes "bakhshísh."] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-99" id="linknote-99"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 99 (<a href="#linknoteref-99">return</a>)<br /> [ Six months' pay.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-100" id="linknote-100"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 100 (<a href="#linknoteref-100">return</a>)<br /> [ Four months.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-101" id="linknote-101"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 101 (<a href="#linknoteref-101">return</a>)<br /> [ Four months and a + half.] + </p> + <p> + <a name="linknote-102" id="linknote-102"> </a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 102 (<a href="#linknoteref-102">return</a>)<br /> [ Employed on special + service.] + </p> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Land of Midian, Vol. 2, by Richard Burton + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF MIDIAN, VOL. 2 *** + +This file should be named 7113-h.htm or 7113-h.zip + + + +Etext produced by JC Byers and proofread by MaryAnn Short + +HTML file produced by David Widger + + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we usually do not +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +We are now trying to release all our eBooks one year in advance +of the official release dates, leaving time for better editing. +Please be encouraged to tell us about any error or corrections, +even years after the official publication date. + +Please note neither this listing nor its contents are final til +midnight of the last day of the month of any such announcement. +The official release date of all Project Gutenberg eBooks is at +Midnight, Central Time, of the last day of the stated month. A +preliminary version may often be posted for suggestion, comment +and editing by those who wish to do so. + +Most people start at our Web sites at: +https://gutenberg.org or +http://promo.net/pg + +These Web sites include award-winning information about Project +Gutenberg, including how to donate, how to help produce our new +eBooks, and how to subscribe to our email newsletter (free!). + + +Those of you who want to download any eBook before announcement +can get to them as follows, and just download by date. This is +also a good way to get them instantly upon announcement, as the +indexes our cataloguers produce obviously take a while after an +announcement goes out in the Project Gutenberg Newsletter. + +http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/etext03 or +ftp://ftp.ibiblio.org/pub/docs/books/gutenberg/etext03 + +Or /etext02, 01, 00, 99, 98, 97, 96, 95, 94, 93, 92, 92, 91 or 90 + +Just search by the first five letters of the filename you want, +as it appears in our Newsletters. + + +Information about Project Gutenberg (one page) + +We produce about two million dollars for each hour we work. The +time it takes us, a rather conservative estimate, is fifty hours +to get any eBook selected, entered, proofread, edited, copyright +searched and analyzed, the copyright letters written, etc. Our +projected audience is one hundred million readers. If the value +per text is nominally estimated at one dollar then we produce $2 +million dollars per hour in 2002 as we release over 100 new text +files per month: 1240 more eBooks in 2001 for a total of 4000+ +We are already on our way to trying for 2000 more eBooks in 2002 +If they reach just 1-2% of the world's population then the total +will reach over half a trillion eBooks given away by year's end. + +The Goal of Project Gutenberg is to Give Away 1 Trillion eBooks! +This is ten thousand titles each to one hundred million readers, +which is only about 4% of the present number of computer users. + +Here is the briefest record of our progress (* means estimated): + +eBooks Year Month + + 1 1971 July + 10 1991 January + 100 1994 January + 1000 1997 August + 1500 1998 October + 2000 1999 December + 2500 2000 December + 3000 2001 November + 4000 2001 October/November + 6000 2002 December* + 9000 2003 November* +10000 2004 January* + + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation has been created +to secure a future for Project Gutenberg into the next millennium. + +We need your donations more than ever! + +As of February, 2002, contributions are being solicited from people +and organizations in: Alabama, Alaska, Arkansas, Connecticut, +Delaware, District of Columbia, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Illinois, +Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maine, Massachusetts, +Michigan, Mississippi, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, Nevada, New +Hampshire, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, +Oklahoma, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Carolina, South +Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Utah, Vermont, Virginia, Washington, West +Virginia, Wisconsin, and Wyoming. + +We have filed in all 50 states now, but these are the only ones +that have responded. + +As the requirements for other states are met, additions to this list +will be made and fund raising will begin in the additional states. +Please feel free to ask to check the status of your state. + +In answer to various questions we have received on this: + +We are constantly working on finishing the paperwork to legally +request donations in all 50 states. If your state is not listed and +you would like to know if we have added it since the list you have, +just ask. + +While we cannot solicit donations from people in states where we are +not yet registered, we know of no prohibition against accepting +donations from donors in these states who approach us with an offer to +donate. + +International donations are accepted, but we don't know ANYTHING about +how to make them tax-deductible, or even if they CAN be made +deductible, and don't have the staff to handle it even if there are +ways. + +Donations by check or money order may be sent to: + +Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +PMB 113 +1739 University Ave. +Oxford, MS 38655-4109 + +Contact us if you want to arrange for a wire transfer or payment +method other than by check or money order. + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation has been approved by +the US Internal Revenue Service as a 501(c)(3) organization with EIN +[Employee Identification Number] 64-622154. Donations are +tax-deductible to the maximum extent permitted by law. As fund-raising +requirements for other states are met, additions to this list will be +made and fund-raising will begin in the additional states. + +We need your donations more than ever! + +You can get up to date donation information online at: + +https://www.gutenberg.org/donation.html + + +*** + +If you can't reach Project Gutenberg, +you can always email directly to: + +Michael S. Hart + +Prof. Hart will answer or forward your message. + +We would prefer to send you information by email. + + +**The Legal Small Print** + + +(Three Pages) + +***START**THE SMALL PRINT!**FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN EBOOKS**START*** +Why is this "Small Print!" statement here? You know: lawyers. +They tell us you might sue us if there is something wrong with +your copy of this eBook, even if you got it for free from +someone other than us, and even if what's wrong is not our +fault. So, among other things, this "Small Print!" statement +disclaims most of our liability to you. It also tells you how +you may distribute copies of this eBook if you want to. + +*BEFORE!* YOU USE OR READ THIS EBOOK +By using or reading any part of this PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm +eBook, you indicate that you understand, agree to and accept +this "Small Print!" statement. If you do not, you can receive +a refund of the money (if any) you paid for this eBook by +sending a request within 30 days of receiving it to the person +you got it from. If you received this eBook on a physical +medium (such as a disk), you must return it with your request. + +ABOUT PROJECT GUTENBERG-TM EBOOKS +This PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBook, like most PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBooks, +is a "public domain" work distributed by Professor Michael S. Hart +through the Project Gutenberg Association (the "Project"). +Among other things, this means that no one owns a United States copyright +on or for this work, so the Project (and you!) can copy and +distribute it in the United States without permission and +without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, set forth +below, apply if you wish to copy and distribute this eBook +under the "PROJECT GUTENBERG" trademark. + +Please do not use the "PROJECT GUTENBERG" trademark to market +any commercial products without permission. + +To create these eBooks, the Project expends considerable +efforts to identify, transcribe and proofread public domain +works. Despite these efforts, the Project's eBooks and any +medium they may be on may contain "Defects". Among other +things, Defects may take the form of incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other +intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged +disk or other eBook medium, a computer virus, or computer +codes that damage or cannot be read by your equipment. + +LIMITED WARRANTY; DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES +But for the "Right of Replacement or Refund" described below, +[1] Michael Hart and the Foundation (and any other party you may +receive this eBook from as a PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm eBook) disclaims +all liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including +legal fees, and [2] YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE OR +UNDER STRICT LIABILITY, OR FOR BREACH OF WARRANTY OR CONTRACT, +INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE +OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES, EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE +POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES. + +If you discover a Defect in this eBook within 90 days of +receiving it, you can receive a refund of the money (if any) +you paid for it by sending an explanatory note within that +time to the person you received it from. If you received it +on a physical medium, you must return it with your note, and +such person may choose to alternatively give you a replacement +copy. If you received it electronically, such person may +choose to alternatively give you a second opportunity to +receive it electronically. + +THIS EBOOK IS OTHERWISE PROVIDED TO YOU "AS-IS". NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, ARE MADE TO YOU AS +TO THE EBOOK OR ANY MEDIUM IT MAY BE ON, INCLUDING BUT NOT +LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A +PARTICULAR PURPOSE. + +Some states do not allow disclaimers of implied warranties or +the exclusion or limitation of consequential damages, so the +above disclaimers and exclusions may not apply to you, and you +may have other legal rights. + +INDEMNITY +You will indemnify and hold Michael Hart, the Foundation, +and its trustees and agents, and any volunteers associated +with the production and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm +texts harmless, from all liability, cost and expense, including +legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of the +following that you do or cause: [1] distribution of this eBook, +[2] alteration, modification, or addition to the eBook, +or [3] any Defect. + +DISTRIBUTION UNDER "PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm" +You may distribute copies of this eBook electronically, or by +disk, book or any other medium if you either delete this +"Small Print!" and all other references to Project Gutenberg, +or: + +[1] Only give exact copies of it. Among other things, this + requires that you do not remove, alter or modify the + eBook or this "small print!" statement. You may however, + if you wish, distribute this eBook in machine readable + binary, compressed, mark-up, or proprietary form, + including any form resulting from conversion by word + processing or hypertext software, but only so long as + *EITHER*: + + [*] The eBook, when displayed, is clearly readable, and + does *not* contain characters other than those + intended by the author of the work, although tilde + (~), asterisk (*) and underline (_) characters may + be used to convey punctuation intended by the + author, and additional characters may be used to + indicate hypertext links; OR + + [*] The eBook may be readily converted by the reader at + no expense into plain ASCII, EBCDIC or equivalent + form by the program that displays the eBook (as is + the case, for instance, with most word processors); + OR + + [*] You provide, or agree to also provide on request at + no additional cost, fee or expense, a copy of the + eBook in its original plain ASCII form (or in EBCDIC + or other equivalent proprietary form). + +[2] Honor the eBook refund and replacement provisions of this + "Small Print!" statement. + +[3] Pay a trademark license fee to the Foundation of 20% of the + gross profits you derive calculated using the method you + already use to calculate your applicable taxes. If you + don't derive profits, no royalty is due. Royalties are + payable to "Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation" + the 60 days following each date you prepare (or were + legally required to prepare) your annual (or equivalent + periodic) tax return. Please contact us beforehand to + let us know your plans and to work out the details. + +WHAT IF YOU *WANT* TO SEND MONEY EVEN IF YOU DON'T HAVE TO? +Project Gutenberg is dedicated to increasing the number of +public domain and licensed works that can be freely distributed +in machine readable form. + +The Project gratefully accepts contributions of money, time, +public domain materials, or royalty free copyright licenses. +Money should be paid to the: +"Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +If you are interested in contributing scanning equipment or +software or other items, please contact Michael Hart at: +hart@pobox.com + +[Portions of this eBook's header and trailer may be reprinted only +when distributed free of all fees. Copyright (C) 2001, 2002 by +Michael S. Hart. Project Gutenberg is a TradeMark and may not be +used in any sales of Project Gutenberg eBooks or other materials be +they hardware or software or any other related product without +express permission.] + +*END THE SMALL PRINT! FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN EBOOKS*Ver.02/11/02*END* + + + + +</pre> + </body> +</html> |