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authorpgww <pgww@lists.pglaf.org>2025-10-14 13:10:13 -0700
committerpgww <pgww@lists.pglaf.org>2025-10-14 13:10:13 -0700
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+</head>
+<body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 71129 ***</div>
+
+<div class="page">
+<hr class="decor width20 spaced3">
+
+<p class="center spaced25 bold"><span class="xlarge letter-spaced03">TRAVELS</span><br>
+<span class="med letter-spaced01">IN</span><br>
+<span class="xxlarge"><span class="letter-spaced05">NUBI</span>A.</span>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width20 spaced3">
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="page">
+<div class="figcenterplate">
+<figure class="iwfront" id="i00"><img alt="" src="images/i00.jpg" id="img_images_i00.jpg">
+</figure>
+
+<p class="center spaced3"><span class="small"><em>Iohn Lewis
+Burckhardt. Ætat. 24.</em></span><br>
+<span class="vsmall"><em>Etched by Angelica Clarke, from the
+original drawing by Slater.</em></span><br>
+<span class="vsmall"><em>Published as the Act directs,
+Dec<sup>r</sup>, 1, 1819, by Iohn Murray, Albemarle
+Street.</em></span>
+</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="title-page">
+<h1><span class="xlarge letter-spaced03">TRAVELS</span><br>
+<span class="med letter-spaced01">IN</span><br>
+<span class="xxlarge"><span class="letter-spaced05">NUBI</span>A;</span>
+</h1>
+
+<p class="center spaced15 space-above15 space-below2 letter-spaced">
+<span class="med">BY THE LATE</span><br>
+JOHN LEWIS BURCKHARDT.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width12 spaced3">
+
+<p class="center spaced15"><span class="med">PUBLISHED BY
+THE</span><br>
+<span class="less">ASSOCIATION FOR PROMOTING THE
+DISCOVERY</span><br>
+<span class="med">OF THE</span><br>
+<span class="less">INTERIOR PARTS OF AFRICA.</span>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width12 spaced3">
+
+<p class="center less space-above1">WITH MAPS, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p class="center space-above3">LONDON:</p>
+
+<hr class="decordb width8">
+
+<p class="publisher">JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.<br>
+1819.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="page">
+<p class="space-above">
+</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width30">
+
+<p class="center small letter-spaced">PRINTED BY W. BULMER AND CO.
+CLEVELAND ROW, ST. JAMES’S.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<p class="pb center spaced2 letter-spaced"><span class="med">THE</span><br>
+<span class="large letter-spaced01">ASSOCIATION</span><br>
+<span class="med">FOR</span><br>
+PROMOTING THE DISCOVERY<br>
+<span class="med">OF THE</span><br>
+<span class="large letter-spaced01">INTERIOR PARTS OF
+AFRICA.</span></p>
+
+<hr class="decordb width12 spaced3">
+<div class="nopb">
+<p class="center">THE COMMITTEE.</p>
+
+<div class="container">
+<ul class="simple">
+<li><span class="sc">The Marquis of Hastings, K. G.</span>
+</li>
+
+<li><span class="sc">The Earl of Morton, K. T.</span>
+</li>
+
+<li><span class="sc">The Earl of Aberdeen, K. T.</span>
+</li>
+
+<li><span class="sc">The Earl Spencer, K. G.</span>
+</li>
+
+<li><span class="sc">The Earl of Caledon.</span>
+</li>
+
+<li><span class="sc">The Right Hon. Charles Yorke.</span>
+</li>
+
+<li><span class="sc">The Right Hon. Sir Joseph Banks, G. C.
+B.</span>
+</li>
+
+<li><span class="sc">Lieutenant Colonel Leake.</span>
+</li>
+
+<li><span class="sc">William Hamilton, Esq.</span>
+<em>Secretary.</em></li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+</div>
+<table>
+<tbody><tr>
+<td>The Earl of Carlisle.</td>
+<td>Sir Everard Home, Bart.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The Earl of Carysfort.</td>
+<td>Richard Payne Knight, Esq.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The Right Hon. Lord Clive.</td>
+<td>The Right Hon. Lord Lovaine, M. P.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Robert Chaloner Esq. M. P.</td>
+<td>Thomas Legh, Esq. M. P.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Thomas Coutts, Esq.</td>
+<td>John Maitland, Esq.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The Earl of Darnley.</td>
+<td>John Motteux, Esq.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sir Harry Englefield, Bart.</td>
+<td>The Earl of Mountnorris.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The Hon. and Rev. Francis Egerton.</td>
+<td>D. L. North, Esq. M. P.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The Right Hon. Lord Gwydir.</td>
+<td>William Morton Pitt, Esq. M. P.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The Rev. Thomas Gisborne.</td>
+<td>James Rennell, Esq.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>George Gostling, Esq.</td>
+<td>Henry Salt, Esq.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The Earl of Guildford.</td>
+<td>The Reverend William Smelt.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The Earl of Hardwicke, K. G.</td>
+<td>John Symmonds, Esq.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>George Harrison, Esq.</td>
+<td>Sir William Watson, Bart.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The Earl of Harrowby.</td>
+<td>William Wilberforce, Esq. M. P.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The Marquis of Hertford, K. G.</td>
+<td>Roger Wilbraham, Esq.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Charles Hoare, Esq.</td>
+<td>Right Rev. the Bishop of Winchester.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Henry Hoare, Esq.</td>
+<td>The Right Hon. Lord Yarborough.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Henry Hugh Hoare, Esq.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody></table>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="large letter-spaced01">CONTENTS.</span>
+</h2>
+
+<hr class="decordb width40 spaced2">
+
+<table class="toc">
+<tbody><tr>
+<td class="hang1"><em>Memoir on the Life and Travels of John Lewis
+Burckhardt.</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#c1">i</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="hang1"><em>Journey along the Banks of the Nile, from
+Assouan to Mahass, on the Frontiers of Dongola.</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#c2">1</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="hang1"><em>Description of a Journey from Upper Egypt
+through the Deserts of Nubia to Berber and Suakin, and from thence
+to Djidda in Arabia.</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#c3">163</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdc section" colspan="2">APPENDIX.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="hang1">No. I. <em>Itinerary from the Frontiers of
+Bornou, by Bahr el Ghazal, and Darfour, to Shendy.</em></td>
+<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#ap1">477</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="hang1">No. II. <em>Some Notices on the Countries of
+Soudan, west of Darfour; with Vocabularies of the Borgho and Bornou
+Languages; collected at Cairo from Negroe Pilgrims.</em></td>
+<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#ap2">484</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="hang1">No. III. <em>Translation of the Notices on Nubia
+contained in Makrizi’s History and Description of Egypt, called El
+Khetat, &amp;c.; with Notes.</em></td>
+<td class="tdr-bot"><a href="#ap3">493</a>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody></table>
+<p class="space-above15 x-ebookmaker-drop"></p>
+<table class="toc linktable">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="tdc">MAPS</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1">[<a href="#map1">General map</a> of Burckhardt’s travels]</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">facing page I</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1"><a href="#map2">Map</a> of the Course of the Nile from ASSOUAN to the Confines of DONGOLA.</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">facing page 1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top hang1"><a href="#map3">Map</a> of the Course of the Nile and ADJACENT COUNTRIES</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">facing page 163</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="page">
+<p class="center med">ERRATA.</p>
+
+<table class="tdl small" id="errata">
+<thead>
+<tr>
+<th>Page</th>
+<th>Line</th>
+<th>
+</th>
+</tr>
+</thead>
+
+<tbody>
+<tr>
+<td>xxix,</td>
+<td class="tdr pad-right1">25,</td>
+<td><em>for</em> Manali Arabs, <em>read</em> Mawáli Arabs.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>xlv,</td>
+<td>24, 5,</td>
+<td><em>for</em> divided from the north of Djebal, <em>read</em>
+divided to the north from Djebal.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>lxxxi,</td>
+<td class="tdr pad-right1">12,</td>
+<td><em>for</em> the, <em>read</em> this.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>166, 167.</td>
+<td>ult. 1,</td>
+<td><em>for</em> twenty-eight dollars, <em>read</em> twenty-five
+dollars.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>272,</td>
+<td>note,</td>
+<td><em>for</em> Μεκάβεροι, <em>read</em> Μεγαβάροι</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>299,</td>
+<td>note,</td>
+<td><em>for</em> parts of Asia Minor, <em>read</em> ports of Asia
+Minor.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>362,</td>
+<td class="tdr pad-right1">7,</td>
+<td><em>for</em> March 18th, <em>read</em> May 18th.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>487,</td>
+<td class="tdr pad-right1">4,</td>
+<td><em>for</em> Moslems, <em>read</em> Moslims.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>ib.</td>
+<td class="tdr pad-right1">34,</td>
+<td><em>for</em> map, <em>read</em> maps.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>488,</td>
+<td class="tdr pad-right1">8,</td>
+<td><em>for</em> tamirisk, <em>read</em> tamarisk.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>ib.</td>
+<td class="tdr pad-right1">20,</td>
+<td><em>for</em> nothern <em>read</em> northern.</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="page">
+<hr class="decordb width12">
+
+<p class="center spaced2"><span class="letter-spaced01">MEMOIR</span><br>
+<span class="small">ON</span><br>
+<span class="large letter-spaced01">THE LIFE AND TRAVELS</span><br>
+<span class="small">OF</span><br>
+JOHN LEWIS BURCKHARDT.</p>
+
+<hr class="decordb width12">
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+<div class="page">
+<div class="figcenterplate iwmap1">
+<figure class="iwmap1" id="map1">
+<p><span class="sc">Burckhardt’s Travels.</span>
+</p>
+<p class="vsmall right"><em>To face the</em> Memoir &amp;c<sup>a</sup> <em>page</em> I.</p>
+<img alt="" src="images/map1.jpg" id="img_images_map1.jpg">
+<table class="width-full">
+<tbody><tr>
+<td class="tdl vsmall"><em>Published as the Act directs,
+1<sup>st</sup> Dec<sup>r</sup>, 1819, by John Murray Albemarle
+Street London.</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr vsmall"><em>J. Walker Sculpt.</em>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody></table>
+
+<p><a href="images/map1_large.jpg" id="id-5044818624630220355"><span class="med">(<em>Large-size</em>)</span></a>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_iii">[iii]</span><a id="c1"></a><span class="xlarge letter-spaced">MEMOIR,</span>
+<em>&amp;c.</em></h2>
+
+<hr class="decordb width20">
+
+<p class="drop-cap space-above3">J<span class="sc">ohn Lewis
+Burckhardt</span> was of an eminent family of Basle, but born at
+Lausanne. He was the eighth child of John Rodolph Burckhardt,
+commonly called Burckhardt of Kirshgarten from the name of his
+mansion in the city of Basle.</p>
+
+<p>Burckhardt of Kirshgarten began life with the best prospects,
+but they were soon blighted by the French revolution; from the very
+beginning of which he became involved in a series of dangers and
+difficulties, which at one time had nearly brought him to the
+scaffold. On the accusation of having been concerned in betraying
+the Tête-de-pont at Huningen to the Austrians, when they besieged
+that fortress in the year 1796-7, he was tried for his life by the
+French party at Basle; and although, in consequence of the
+undoubted proofs of his innocence brought forward upon his trial,
+he was released from prison, he found it impossible to remain in
+the power of the French, as he had certain information of his being
+upon the list of those who were to be destroyed either by open or
+secret means. He entered into a Swiss corps in English pay, but was
+under the necessity of leaving his wife and children at Basle, to
+save the family if possible from total ruin. Here his son Lewis
+Burckhardt was a daily witness of the misery suffered under the
+republican French, and here he imbibed, at a very early age, a
+detestation of their principles, and a resolution never to bend
+under their yoke. It was his wish to serve in the armies of some
+nation which should<span class="pagenum" id="Page_iv">[iv]</span>
+be at war with France; but he was first desirous of completing his
+education, which with the exception of two years in an
+establishment at Neuchatel, had been hitherto under the care of a
+person residing in his father’s house.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1800, being then 16 years of age, he was carried by
+his father, Colonel Burckhardt, to the university of Leipzig, from
+whence after a stay of near four years he was removed to Göttingen.
+In both places his exemplary conduct and high feelings of honour,
+his distinguished talents and ardent zeal for knowledge, ensured
+him universal esteem and respect; while a remarkable frankness,
+cheerfulness, kindness, and evenness of temper, made him
+particularly beloved by his more intimate acquaintance. After
+leaving Göttingen in 1805, he returned to his father, and remained
+also a short time with his mother at Basle. Uncertain what plan to
+pursue, unable to find upon the continent any nation which was not
+either subject to the French or in alliance with them, and having
+for these reasons rejected an offer made to him by one of the royal
+courts of Germany to enter the diplomatic line, he resolved at
+length upon proceeding to England, in the hope of meeting some
+opening to his wishes in the service of this country. He arrived in
+London in the month of July, 1806, bringing with him several
+excellent letters of introduction, among which was one to Sir
+Joseph Banks, from Professor Blumenbach of Göttingen. The President
+of the Royal Society had long been an active member of the
+Committee of the African Association, which at that time had more
+than begun to despair of any further intelligence from Mr.
+Horneman, and in the following year received an account of the
+death of another of their travellers, Mr. Henry Nicholls, at Old
+Calabar, in the bight of Benin, where he was preparing himself for
+an expedition into the interior country.</p>
+
+<p>The result of the information obtained by the travellers of
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">[v]</span> Association on the
+Western side of Africa, compared with that transmitted by Mr.
+Horneman from the North, had now rendered it advisable to make a
+new attempt in the latter direction. These wishes of the
+Association soon became known to Burckhardt, through his
+acquaintance with some of the leading members. To a mind equally
+characterised by courage, a love of science and a spirit of
+enterprise, such an undertaking afforded peculiar attractions, and
+accordingly it was not long before Burckhardt made an offer of his
+services to Sir Joseph Banks and the Rev. Dr. Hamilton. The latter,
+who was at that time Treasurer and acting Secretary of the
+Association, perceiving him to be undismayed by the strong
+representations of danger, which it was peculiarly right to make to
+a person of his birth and education, and having found him admirably
+adapted to the undertaking by his natural and acquired talents, as
+well as by the vigour of his constitution, laid his offer before
+the Association at the next general meeting in May, 1808. The offer
+was willingly accepted, and Burckhardt received his instructions on
+the 25th of January, 1809, having diligently employed the interval
+in London and Cambridge in the study of the Arabic language, and of
+those branches of science which were most necessary in the
+situation wherein he was about to be placed. He allowed his beard
+to grow and assumed the Oriental dress: he attended lectures on
+chemistry, astronomy, mineralogy, medicine and surgery, and in the
+intervals of his studies he exercised himself by long journeys on
+foot, bareheaded, in the heat of the sun, sleeping upon the ground,
+and living upon vegetables and water.</p>
+
+<p>As an intimate knowledge of Arabic was the most important of all
+acquirements, our traveller was instructed to proceed in the first
+instance to Syria, where at the same time that he studied the
+language in one of its purest schools, he might acquire a habitude
+of Oriental manners at a distance from those countries<span class="pagenum" id="Page_vi">[vi]</span> which were to be the scene of
+his researches, and consequently without much risque of being
+afterwards recognised. After a stay of two years in Syria, he was
+instructed to proceed to Cairo, from whence, accompanying the
+Fezzan caravan to Mourzouk by the same route traversed by Horneman,
+he was directed to make that town the point of his departure for
+the interior countries.</p>
+
+<p>On the 2d of March, 1809, Burckhardt sailed from Cowes on board
+of a merchant ship, proceeding with convoy to the Mediterranean,
+and he arrived at Malta in the middle of April, from whence he
+addressed two letters to Sir Joseph Banks, of which the following
+are extracts:</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="center"><em>Extract of a letter dated Malta, April
+22,</em> 1809.</p>
+
+<p>You will be much interested in hearing that at this moment an
+attempt is making to explore the Interior of Africa; and that I
+have, unknowingly, entered upon my expedition as rival to a
+gentleman who is probably by this time in the scene of action. I
+was allowed the perusal of a letter from Dr. Seetzen to Mr. Barker,
+who is a merchant of Malta, and brother to the British Consul at
+Aleppo. Dr. Seetzen is a German physician, who was sent five or six
+years ago by the Duke of Saxe-Gotha into the Levant, to collect
+manuscripts and Eastern curiosities. He has resided for a
+considerable length of time at Constantinople, at Smyrna, at
+Aleppo, at Damascus, and for the last eighteen months at Cairo,
+from whence his letter to Mr. Barker is dated on the 9th of
+February last. After remarking that he had sent off from Cairo to
+Gotha a collection of fifteen hundred manuscripts and three
+thousand different objects of antiquity, he informs Mr. Barker that
+he is waiting for the next caravan to set out for Suez; that he
+means to go down the eastern coast of the Red Sea, and then
+entering Africa to the southward of the line, to explore its
+interior parts. Such are his expressions.</p>
+
+<p>The late Bey of Tripoli is at present a fugitive at Malta: he is
+a much respected old man; his name Akhmed Karamaly: five or six
+years ago he was dispossessed of his throne by his brother, the
+present reigning Bey. I take Akhmed to be the Bey mentioned in
+Horneman’s letters. He has at length come to a compromise with his
+brother, who has ceded to him the province of Derna, and promises
+not to molest him there, provided he keeps quiet himself; and
+Akhmed is now going to take possession of his new territory. I had
+never heard before that Derna was a dependency of Tripoli; the
+country was generally, I think, supposed to be inhabited by free
+tribes of Arabs. It is much to be regretted that the whole extent
+of that coast, from Mesurata to Derna, and almost as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">[vii]</span> far as Alexandria, should
+still remain unsurveyed; no accurate soundings have been taken
+along the shore, and its inland parts, even those nearest the sea,
+are totally unknown. I am assured that there are three safe
+anchoring places between Derna and Alexandria; the harbour of
+Bomba,<a id="FNanchor_1"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_1">[1]</a> formed by an island lying
+across the bay, is particularly spoken of as able to contain almost
+any number of ships and of any size. When the French fleet, under
+Admiral Gantheaume victualled Corfu last year, and escaped the
+vigilance of Lord Collingwood’s cruising squadrons, they were hid
+for some time, with their fore and top masts struck, behind the
+island of Bomba, and were passed unnoticed. The Malta pilots are
+perfectly well acquainted with all the inlets of the coast, but
+their intelligence is little to be depended upon, because the
+safety of many of their privateers depends upon an exclusive
+knowledge of that part of the Mediterranean. An English traveller
+might, under the protection of the governor of Malta, and of the
+new sovereign of Derna, who is said to be very much attached to
+this country, visit with great personal safety, the ancient site of
+Berenice, Cyrene, and the gardens of the Hesperides.</p>
+
+<p>Some account of the recent eruption of Mount Ætna has probably
+already reached you; until you receive a detailed description of
+it, even such a superficial account as I have received from
+different quarters may perhaps prove acceptable to you. It was from
+the letter of an English gentleman who was on the spot, that I
+obtained the following account.</p>
+
+<p>The time of the first eruption is not mentioned, but on the 27th
+of March, Messina was covered with ashes and cinders early in the
+morning. The children said it rained black snow. No earthquake
+seems to have been felt. A new crater, approaching in size to that
+of the Monti Rossi, had been formed; and in the neighbourhood of
+it, seven or eight small ones; they lie in the direction of
+Lingua-grossa, about three or four miles from that place, and at an
+equal distance from Castiglione. On the other side of the mountain,
+over Nicolosi and over Randazzo, two other craters have opened; the
+old crater at the summit was also smoking, so that the whole
+mountain seems to have been in combustion. The principal stream of
+lava took the slope towards Franca Villa and Castiglione; its
+breadth varied, according to the shape of the country, from twenty
+yards to one mile. On the steepest part where the lava was most
+liquid, it flowed between three and four miles an hour; at other
+places, and particularly where it approached the vineyards of
+Franca Villa, its rate was only about fifty yards during the same
+space of time. As it ran down a very woody country, the breaking
+down of the forest and its ingulphing in the fiery waves are
+described as a most sublime spectacle. On the 12th of April the
+eruption had nearly subsided, but the inhabitants, for whose relief
+the English had raised a subscription, were in dread of new
+eruptions.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">[viii]</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="center"><em>Extract of a letter dated Malta, 22nd
+May,</em> 1809.</p>
+
+<p>I am proceeding from hence to Aleppo as an Indian Mohammedan
+merchant, the supposed bearer of dispatches from the East India
+Company to Mr. Barker, British Consul, and the Company’s well known
+Agent at Aleppo. As such I am recommended to the British Consul at
+Cyprus, a Greek; and as such I shall find means to excuse my
+present irregularity of speech and manners. I shall escape the
+exaction of the custom-house officers, be protected on the road,
+even by the country authorities, and shall soon be lost in the
+crowds of Aleppo.</p>
+
+<p>During my stay here, I have succeeded in equipping myself
+thoroughly in the Oriental fashion. The dress I have taken is
+somewhat Syrian, yet sufficiently differing from the real Syrian
+costume, to shew that I have no wish of passing for a native. I
+have practised as much as was in my power the speaking of Arabic,
+and have reason to believe that none of my secrets have transpired.
+I have lived out of the way of intruders, and of being taken notice
+of, in the lodgings of Lieutenant Corner of the navy,
+Harbour-master, to whom, as well to Mr. Chapman, the Public
+Secretary, and Mr. Peter Lee, I am under infinite obligations for
+the help and advice which they have given me. Sir Alexander Ball
+has been very kind to me upon every occasion, and seemed much
+interested in the success of my travels. Circumstances would not
+allow me often to call at the palace, which his friendly and
+instructive conversation, whenever I did call, rendered a matter of
+great regret to me. (...)</p>
+
+<p>A singular misrepresentation prevails in Europe respecting this
+island, namely, that the greater part of the soil is imported from
+Sicily; and it has even been said, that by these importations the
+soil is completely renewed every ten years. I believe it would be
+difficult to produce a single instance of earth having been brought
+over from Sicily. To make the soft and friable limestone, of which
+the island consists, fit for agriculture, they break through it to
+the depth of twelve or fifteen feet. A sort of rough cistern from
+six to eight feet high, often running under the whole length of the
+field, is then constructed with part of the stones which have been
+taken out; large fissures are found in the rocks full of earth;
+this is taken out, and is sufficient to cover the cistern to the
+height of four or five feet; the rest of the stones are used for
+buildings, and to construct a wall round the field, which prevents
+the soil from being washed away by the torrents of rain in the
+rainy season, at the same time that it shelters the fig and olive
+trees planted within the wall from the violence of the wind. The
+whole island is covered with these enclosed fields, whose soil is
+very fertile. The mistaken notion alluded to, may arise perhaps
+from the following circumstances. Ships and boats coming here from
+Sicily often take in ballast at that island, consisting of sand,
+mixed perhaps with some earth, which, when they arrive here, they
+are obliged to carry to a particular part of the harbour, to
+prevent its being thrown overboard and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">[ix]</span> choaking the anchorage. Or perhaps the
+frequent importation of terra puzzolana, which is in common use to
+make cement, and which when landed may have been mistaken for
+earth, may have given rise to the assertion.</p>
+
+<p>The government of Malta is at this moment a curious mixture of
+English and Maltese authority. As yet the island does not belong to
+England. The islanders having, with the assistance of Sir Alexander
+Ball, who was then a captain, obliged the French garrison at
+Valetta to surrender, applied to the British government for
+assistance in the further defence of their island, against the
+attempts that might be made by the French, and the Knights; and
+they offered in return, to give up the government and the
+revenue.</p>
+
+<p>In consequence of this proposal, Sir Alexander was sent to them
+soon afterwards, as his Majesty’s Civil Commissioner. After the
+peace of Amiens, when the island was to be restored to the Order,
+he was appointed Minister Plenipotentiary to the Court of the Grand
+Master. The Court however never resumed its existence, though it is
+still nominally recognised; all the English resident here,
+excepting of course the military, are judged by Maltese laws and
+courts of justice, at the head of which is a Maltese president, but
+the decisions are submitted to the approbation of the civil
+governor, who in capital cases may reprieve the criminal. All civil
+situations, except three or four, appointed from home, are in the
+patronage of the governor, but are exclusively held by natives. It
+is by this policy, and by totally excluding military law, that the
+hearts of the people have been gained. It may well be worth while
+to do so, for the Maltese are an independent high spirited people,
+however they may have been represented by the Knights. In the time
+of their rising against the French, they formed a well disciplined
+corps of 15,000 men, the greater part of whom were expert
+sharp-shooters.</p>
+
+<p>The port of Valetta has lately been declared a free port, and
+this will render it for a long time to come the centre of trade
+from Gibraltar as far as Odessa. The numerous Greek traders find
+themselves better protected here than in their own islands. Here
+are no greedy custom-house officers nor interested kadis to share
+their profits, but they find that justice is dealt to them with the
+same equity as to the first London merchants, and that even the
+England home trade does not enjoy greater privileges than their
+own. The island of the Archipelago which sends out the greatest
+number of ships is Ydra; they are well built, armed and manned.</p>
+
+<p>Government monopolizes the corn trade of the island, and engages
+in return to sell the corn at a fixed price. A supply for two or
+three years consumption for the whole population is always kept in
+the fortress.</p>
+
+<p>The former Pasha of Tripoli, whom I spoke of in my last letter,
+is gone to Derna, under convoy of a brig which Sir Alexander sent
+with him. His ship was moored for a whole day close under my
+window, which afforded me a fortunate opportunity of
+prying<span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">[x]</span> unobserved into
+the Moors’ private manners, and behaviour to each other; and even
+the short history of one day became very instructive to me.</p>
+
+<p>You may well conceive that I avoided all intercourse with these
+persons from Barbary. I often met parties of them in the streets,
+but the “Salem aleik” given and returned, was all that passed
+between us. The trade between Malta and Barbary, especially that
+with Tripoli and Tunis, acquires daily more vigour and stability.
+Even the English merchants begin to enter into it; hitherto the
+Moors and the Maltese have chiefly had it in their hands. The
+Tunisians, besides bartering in the Mediterranean for themselves,
+are also shippers for others, and enterprising smugglers with the
+enemy’s ports. During my passage from Gibraltar, being above six
+miles to the westward of Cape Toro in Sardinia, five Tunisian
+vessels passed in the night close to our ship, standing right over
+for the coast of France. Our Commodore was not near enough to see
+them, nor was it thought advisable to make any signals.</p>
+
+<p>It happens rather unfortunately, that a Swiss regiment in the
+English service is in garrison here, to many of the officers of
+which I am personally known: this has made me very cautious in
+going abroad, and now, after a seven weeks residence, I have the
+satisfaction to find that I have succeeded in passing unknown, and
+unnoticed. The great intercourse between the Moorish merchants and
+Malta, made it absolutely necessary for me to keep my travelling
+plans very secret.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The next intelligence which the Association received from their
+traveller was a detailed account of his progress from Malta to
+Aleppo, in a letter dated from the latter place on the 2d of
+October, 1809. The following copious extract contains all the most
+interesting parts of it.</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p>I have already had the honour to inform you, that I had settled
+at Malta with a Greek, for my passage to Cyprus on board his ship.
+A few hours before my departure, the captain called upon me to tell
+me that the owner of the ship had changed his mind as to its
+destination, that he himself had been ordered to go to Tripoly, but
+that a friend of his, whom at the same time he introduced to me,
+was on the point of sailing in his stead for Cyprus, and that he
+had already put my baggage on board this other ship. Though
+displeased with so preremptory a proceeding, I had no objection to
+change my conveyance, both captains being known to Mr. Lee; but the
+very moment I was embarking, the new captain told me that he was
+not quite sure whether he should touch at Cyprus, his ship being
+properly bound for Acre. I had now the option to wait at Malta,
+perhaps another month or two, for an opportunity for Cyprus or the
+coast of Syria, or to run the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi">[xi]</span> chance of disembarking at a place where there
+was no person whatever to whom I could apply for advice or
+protection. Luckily an Arab of Acre, then at Malta, happened to be
+known to Mr. Barker, jun.; in half an hour’s time a letter for a
+merchant at Acre, with another, in case of need, for the Pasha,
+were procured, and I embarked and sailed the same morning, in the
+hope of finding, when arrived at Acre, a passage for Tripoly
+(Syria), or for Latikia. However, we were no sooner out of sight of
+the island, than it was made known to me that the real destination
+of the ship was the coast of Caramania, that the captain had orders
+to touch first at the port of Satalia, then at that of Tarsus; and
+that if grain could not be purchased at an advantageous price at
+either of these places, in that case only he was to proceed to
+Acre. My remonstrances with the captain would have been vain:
+nothing was left to me but to cultivate his good graces, and those
+of my fellow travellers, as the progress of my journey must depend
+greatly upon their good offices. The passengers consisted, to my
+astonishment, of a rich Tripolitan merchant, who owned part of the
+ship, two other Tripolines, and two Negroe slaves. I introduced
+myself amongst them as an Indian Mohammedan merchant, who had been
+from early years in England, and was now on his way home; and I had
+the good fortune to make my story credible enough to the
+passengers, as well as to the ship’s company. During the course of
+our voyage numerous questions were put to me relative to India, its
+inhabitants, and its language, which I answered as well as I could:
+whenever I was asked for a specimen of the Hindu language, I
+answered in the worst dialect of the Swiss German, almost
+unintelligible even to a German, and which, in its guttural sounds,
+may fairly rival the harshest utterance of Arabic. Every evening we
+assembled upon deck to enjoy the cooling sea breeze, and to smoke
+our pipes. While one of the sailors was amusing his companions with
+story-telling, I was called upon to relate to my companions the
+wonders of the farthest east; of the Grand Mogul, and the riches of
+his court: of the widows in Hindostan burning themselves: of the
+Chinese, their wall and great porcelane tower, &amp;c. &amp;c. The
+Tripolitan merchant, in his turn, regaled us with the wonders of
+Soudan, of one nation which is in continual warfare with their
+neighbours, of a nation of speaking sheep, of another of
+necromancers, who lately defeated a whole army which the King of
+Bornou had sent against them, &amp;c. &amp;c. Still there was
+something instructive in his tales, as I learnt with certainty that
+the yearly caravan intercourse between Fezzan and Tripoly is still
+uninterrupted; in February 1809, a caravan from thence had arrived
+at Tripoly; but the pilgrim caravans from Fezzan to Cairo and Mekka
+have suffered greatly by the irruptions of the Wahabi. In a short
+time I got upon a very friendly footing with the Tripolines. I had
+taken but a scanty provision of eatables on board, consisting of
+bread, rice, oil, dates, vegetables, and coffee. After the second
+day, the wealthy Moor would not allow me to mess by myself; he
+insisted upon my joining<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xii">[xii]</span> his mess, which was plentifully supplied
+with all sorts of Barbary dainties. In return for his hospitality,
+I was not backward with my manual labour whenever he wanted it. One
+day we cleared one of his coffee bags of its rotten beans, to
+prepare it for being shewn at Satalia to the buyers as a sample of
+the whole stock: another day we killed a sheep, and made Barbary
+sausages and Kuskusey; and among other things, we refitted the
+foremast, which had been carried away off Candia. Provided there
+was something to divert the passengers’ thoughts from my person and
+affairs, I was contented. We made Candia on the 15th; sailed on the
+15th and 16th along the southern coast, about ten leagues distant
+from it: saw on the 17th Rhodes, at a great distance: entered the
+next day the bay of Satalia, and anchored on the 19th in the port
+of Satalia.</p>
+
+<p>The bay is an inlet into the mountains of Caramania, which
+surround it on the east and west side. Towards the north, where a
+cliff about fifty feet high overhangs the bay, the country is
+level. The port of Satalia is at the foot of the cliff, in the
+bottom of the bay. The mountains on the western side, which we
+passed very near, are of considerable height. Their highest ridge
+was on the top covered with snow. I observed one of those mountains
+apparently higher than the rest, whose foot touched the sea, on the
+sides of which the snow was sparingly spread down to one third of
+the mountain’s height; and this was on the 18th of June. They are
+all barren; their shape and whole appearance is much the same as
+that of the African mountains in the Straits of Gibraltar. The town
+of Satalia is built partly upon the cliff, partly in the plain
+which the cliff terminates; its gardens extend to about three or
+four miles along the rocky shore. The town is separated from the
+port and the few buildings which surround the landing place, by a
+wall constructed on the top of the cliff; a narrow passage leads
+from the beach up to the town, the gate of which is regularly shut
+at sunset. The entrance of the harbour seems to have been defended
+formerly by two towers, the ruins of which are still extant. The
+inner harbour is small; a Turkish guard ship, four Arab vessels
+from Damiat, five or six small country sailing boats, and our own
+ship, crowded the whole space between the two ruined towers. There
+is good anchorage in the larger outer bay, but no shelter against
+the southerly winds. Two fine streams of spring water descend the
+cliff on both sides of the landing place. As soon as we approached
+the harbour a Turkish police boat came alongside of us, and the
+Tripoline immediately went with the officer on shore. After we had
+come to anchor we were informed that the plague was in the town,
+and that the watch ship moored near us had two sick on board; and
+though nobody had died in the town within the last fortnight, yet
+all the principal Christian and Turkish merchants had left their
+town houses, and were still living in their gardens. Of course our
+captain would not allow any body to go on shore, and pressed the
+Tripoline to return on board; but the latter having already
+recovered once from the plague, thought himself quite secure from
+any second attack, and treated<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiii">[xiii]</span> the captain’s remonstrances very lightly.
+He remained four days on shore, trading all the while for his own
+account, without finding grain to purchase for the ship’s cargo.
+During that time I went once on shore to see two bullocks killed
+and weighed, which had been bought for the ship’s company; we
+purchased besides some other fresh provisions, the whole at very
+low prices: the two bullocks at fifty-five piastres, fowls at eight
+paras, or about two-pence halfpenny each; seven eggs for one penny,
+&amp;c. &amp;c. The Turks laughed much at the captain’s continually
+warning them off from our persons, (yet it seems that both at
+Satalia and here at Aleppo, the more prudent amongst them adopt
+measures of precaution against the plague. I am told that at Smyrna
+also they have followed the Franks’ example). On the evening of the
+23d, having sold for his private account all the merchandize he had
+on board, the Tripoline, accompanied by several Turks, made his
+re-appearance along side our ship, and demanded forthwith to be
+taken on board. A very ridiculous scene then took place. The
+captain required that he should undress and wash himself in the
+sea, and that his clothes should undergo a similar operation; the
+Moor, on his side, insisted on washing only part of his clothes and
+his body; and all his Turkish friends were of the same opinion; (an
+aged Musselman thinks it a great shame to expose his body naked
+except in the bath.) The contention lasted upwards of half an hour:
+it being now dark he was at last prevailed upon to jump into the
+sea, but nothing could persuade him to allow his clothes to be
+washed, for fear of having them spoiled; they were afterwards
+suspended at the rigging of the foremast, that the air might purify
+them, and he recovered them after a three days quarantine. Our
+captain thought he had now done his duty. He told me that upon his
+return to Malta he should think himself justified in taking the
+usual oath, that he had had no communication with any infected
+place; and instead of a three months quarantine, which the ship
+ought properly to undergo, he will only have to perform a
+quarantine of forty days, like all other ships which come from
+healthy parts of the Levant. We left Satalia the same evening.
+Satalia is governed by a Pasha: the greater half of the population
+consists of Greeks, who have got almost all the commerce into their
+hands. Till three or four years ago there was a French Consul
+resident in the town; in consequence of an avanie practised upon a
+merchant under his protection he left it, and no European power has
+since appointed a Consul at this place. The export trade consists
+chiefly in corn, oil, and cotton. The country boats trade to Cyprus
+and the coast of Syria. The Arabs of Damiat and Alexandria bring
+rice, Mocha coffee, and sugar; those who were then lying in the
+harbour purchased from us with great eagerness some coarse English
+pocket handkerchiefs.</p>
+
+<p>After we had left Satalia, we sailed for three days along the
+coast of Caramania, and kept our course constantly ten leagues
+distant from the shore. The chain of snowy mountains seems to
+continue in a direction parallel with the shore. At the foot of
+these<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiv">[xiv]</span> mountains I
+observed every evening thunder clouds and lightning; during our
+stay in the port of Satalia we were twice refreshed by heavy
+showers, though it was now the season when it very seldom rains in
+other parts of the Levant. I suppose that the vicinity of the snowy
+mountains, which rapidly condense the copious vapours arising from
+the heated earth, give rise to these clouds. On the 26th, late at
+night, we anchored in the roads of Mersin, a collection of villages
+so called, situated to the west of Tarsus, about fourteen miles
+distant from it. The next morning some of us went with the
+Tripoline on shore, where we found a party of about twenty
+Turkmans, encamped under and around a single tent; they were
+selling grain, with which the buyers loaded several camels. After a
+short parley the chief of the party led us to his village, about
+two miles distant. We remained there the whole day in the chief’s
+house, couched upon carpets, which were spread upon a terrace
+sheltered from the sun by the shade of two large mulberry trees. We
+returned to our ship in the evening; and spent the next four days
+in the same manner with these hospitable people.</p>
+
+<p>An Aga is at the head of this Turkman tribe; he commands about
+twenty-five villages, over each of which he appoints a chief to
+collect the revenue, which is equally divided between the Chief and
+the Aga. Many of these chiefs are Greeks, who by their long
+residence with the Turkmans have completely adopted their manners.
+Their dress is the same, excepting the red cap, which the Greeks do
+not wear; and but for that mark it would be impossible for a
+stranger to distinguish them from their masters. The Turkmans are
+continually moving about on horseback from one village to another;
+they are tolerably well mounted and well armed, each with a gun,
+two pistols, a poignard, and a sabre. They never go but armed, but
+it seems to be chiefly from ostentation, for they live at peace
+with the inhabitants of the neighbouring villages, have nothing to
+fear from straggling Arab tribes, and have no opportunity of
+attacking travellers or caravans, which never pass this way. They
+occupy the whole plain, which extends in length from Cape Bajarre
+to beyond Tarsus; its breadth extends from the sea to the lowest
+ridge of the mountains of Caramania, and varies from four to five
+or ten miles. This plain, at least as much as I saw of it in my way
+to Tarsus, is for the greater part sown with barley and wheat;
+where it is left uncultivated, numerous herds of buffaloes and fine
+cattle feed upon the wild grass. Wild capers grow in great
+abundance. I found in several rivulets small tortoises, and amongst
+the ruins of deserted houses we got here and there sight of a
+zerboa. The Tripoline having made his purchase of grain from the
+Aga, the latter sent on board our ship three fat sheep in earnest
+of his engagements. In six days the ship was to begin loading. The
+Tripoline being at leisure during this time, I persuaded him to go
+with me to Tarsus, in search of a further conveyance for me by sea
+or land; one of the other Tripolines was likewise desirous of
+looking out for a passage for Beirout; the excursion was therefore
+soon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xv">[xv]</span> agreed upon. We
+formed a small caravan, and set out on horseback on the morning of
+the 30th. The road from our anchoring place to Tarsus crosses the
+above mentioned plain in an easterly direction: we passed several
+small rivulets which empty themselves into the sea, and which, to
+judge from the size of their beds, swell in the rainy season to
+considerable torrents. We had rode about an hour, when I saw at
+half an hour’s distance to the north of our route, the ruins of a
+large castle, upon a hill of a regular shape in the plain; half an
+hour further towards Tarsus, at an equal distance from our road,
+upon a second tumulus, were ruins resembling the former; a third
+insulated hillock, close to which we passed midway of our route,
+was overgrown with grass, without any ruins or traces of them. I
+did not see in the whole plain any other elevations of ground but
+the three just mentioned. Not far from the first ruins, stands in
+the plain an insulated column. Large groups of trees shew from afar
+the site of Tarsus. We passed a small river before we entered the
+town, larger than those we had met on the road. The western outer
+gate of the town, through which we entered, is of ancient
+structure; it is a fine arch, the interior vault of which is in
+perfect preservation: on the outside are some remains of a
+sculptured frieze. I did not see any inscriptions. To the right and
+left of this gateway are seen the ancient ruined walls of the city,
+which extended in this direction farther than the town at present
+does. From the outer gateway, it is about four hundred paces to the
+modern entrance of the city; the intermediate ground is filled up
+by a burying ground on one side of the road, and several gardens
+with some miserable huts on the other. We led our horses to the
+Khan of the muleteers, and went ourselves to the Khan of the
+merchants, where we found tolerable accommodation, the brother of
+the Tripoline being known here. Our room was soon filled with all
+the foreign merchants who lived in the Khan, and the principal town
+merchants; we sold to them a few silk handkerchiefs and coarse
+cambrick, and were plagued with their company for the whole
+remaining part of the day. The foreign merchants were a party of
+Kahines, several Aleppines, and some Constantinopolitans. In the
+evening the alley at the gate of the Khan was transformed into a
+dark coffee room, where every body went to smoke a pipe. As we were
+strangers, we were greeted at our entrance with the usual
+politeness of Orientals towards travellers; “Peace be with you, you
+are welcome among us, how are you? God send you a happy evening,
+&amp;c. &amp;c.” were compliments which every one whom we
+approached addressed to us. We were treated by several merchants
+with pipes, coffee, ice-water, and Bour, which latter drink is
+water mixed with the juice of liquorice. The ice is brought from
+the mountains three days journey distant, at the price of three
+piastres for about five pounds. A tolerable singer sung some
+Turkish airs, and accompanied himself upon a sort of mandoline.
+Many questions were addressed to me about<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvi">[xvi]</span> my person and affairs: my neighbour the
+Tripoline took the trouble of answering them to the satisfaction of
+the company. “Allah Kerim,” “God is great,” was their usual
+exclamation at hearing that I came from so far. We retired rather
+late: for my part I had been much entertained with the party. We
+went to sleep before the door of our room, upon a covered terrace
+built of wood, which runs along the interior circuit of the Khan.
+Before sun rise every body was up; some of the merchants descended
+into the court yard to perform at the fountain the ablutions which
+are prescribed to the Musselman after his night’s rest. But in this
+part of their religious rites, as well as in the performance of
+their daily prayers, I observed much indifference amongst the
+plurality of the Turks I saw here, as well as of those with whom I
+travelled afterwards from Suedieh to Aleppo. Amongst the latter
+were many who, during eight days, did not pray once: even two
+Hadjis, who had performed the Mekka pilgrimage, were of that
+number. Some would pray once, others twice a day, before sun rise,
+and after sun set; only three or four of the caravan were strict in
+regularly chaunting the three daily prayers, to which number the
+Koran limits the duty of travellers; but I did not find that more
+respect or deference was paid to them than to the others.</p>
+
+<p>We remained in the Khan that morning, and quitted the town at
+noon to return to our ship, leaving the Tripoline behind to settle
+our affairs. The little I saw of Tarsus did not allow me to
+estimate its extent; the streets through which I passed were all
+built of wood, and badly; some well furnished bazars, and a large
+and handsome mosque in the vicinity of the Khan, make up the whole
+register of curiosities which I am able to relate of Tarsus. Upon
+several maps Tarsus is marked as a sea town: this is incorrect; the
+sea is above three miles distant from it. On our return home we
+started in a S. W. direction, and passed, after two hours and a
+half’s march, Casal, a large village, half a mile distant from the
+sea shore, called the Port of Tarsus, because vessels freighted for
+Tarsus usually come to anchor in its neighbourhood. From thence
+turning towards the west, we arrived at our ship at the end of two
+hours. The merchants of Tarsus trade principally with the Syrian
+coast and Cyprus: Imperial ships arrive there from time to time to
+load grain. The land trade is of very little consequence, as the
+caravans from Smyrna arrive very seldom. There is no land
+communication at all between Tarsus and Aleppo, which is at ten
+journeys (caravan travelling) distant from it. The road has been
+rendered unsafe, especially in later times, by the depredations of
+Kutshuk Ali, a savage rebel, who has established himself in the
+mountains to the north of Alexandretta. Tarsus is governed by an
+Aga, who I have reason to believe is almost independent. The French
+have an agent there, who is a rich Greek merchant.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day the Tripoline rejoined us; he had taken, to
+my great satisfaction,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvii">[xvii]</span> a passage for me on board a Greek sailing
+boat from Tripoli of Syria.<a id="FNanchor_2"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_2">[2]</a>
+That vessel was at anchor at Casal, and according to its master’s
+affirmation was bound for Latikia, which was exactly the place
+where I wished to land. I left our ship on the second of July; in
+taking leave of the Tripoline I took off my sash, a sort of red
+cambric shawl, of Glasgow manufacture, which he had always much
+admired, thinking it to be Indian stuff, and presented it to him as
+a keepsake or reward for his good services. He immediately
+unloosened his turban, and twisted the shawl in its stead round his
+head: making me many professions of friendship, and assuring me of
+his hospitality, if ever the chance of mercantile pursuits should
+again engage me to visit the Mediterranean, and perhaps Tripoli in
+Barbary. The time I hope may come, when I shall be enabled to put
+his assurances to the test. (I think I forgot to mention, that the
+Tripoline was much skilled in languages, which enabled me freely to
+converse with him; besides his native Arabic tongue, he spoke
+Turkish, Greek, and Italian.) The vessel on board of which I now
+embarked, was an open boat with three masts, about thirty-five feet
+long, and nine broad, much resembling the representation of the
+Germs of the Nile, which Bruce and other travellers have given.
+These vessels are very common on the Syrian coast; where they are
+called Jackdur. I had engaged to pay for my passage twenty-five
+piastres, at my arrival in Latikia, but was no sooner with my
+baggage on board, than the master informed me that he meant to
+proceed to Antakia (Antiochia) not to Latikia, and that I was at
+liberty to return to my own ship, if I did not choose to go his
+way. I thus found myself duped a second time, though I had most
+distinctly agreed for my passage to Latikia. However, there being
+no other conveyance to the coast of Syria at hand, I resolved to
+remain on board. I was afraid of being kept in these parts, until
+after the return of my old ship for Malta; when I should have
+nobody to recommend me to those, in whose company I might continue
+my way; I knew moreover, that there was a brisk intercourse between
+Antakia and Aleppo. There had not been for some time, any
+opportunity from Tarsus to the opposite coast. A crowd of
+passengers came therefore on board. I counted fifty-six men and
+women lying upon deck, besides six sailors, and six horses in the
+ship’s hold. We had each just as much space allowed, as the body
+covered, and remained in this state two nights and one day. In
+general the passage is performed within the twenty-four hours.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of the 5th, we entered the bay of Suedieh, which
+is formed on one side by the promontory called Ras Khanzir, on the
+other by another projecting rocky mountain; both are the
+extremities of chains of barren rocks, which I conceive to be the
+remotest branches of the Libanus. These mountains come down to the
+water’s<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xviii">[xviii]</span> edge on
+both sides of the bay; in the bottom of it, where the Orontes now
+called Aasi empties itself into the sea, begins a level country of
+four or five miles in width and length. It is to the whole of this
+tract of level land, which contains several villages, that the name
+of Suedieh is applied, though that appellation is also given
+sometimes exclusively to the port.</p>
+
+<p>The wind being favourable we entered the river, and anchored,
+after half an hour’s sailing through its sinuosities, at Mina, the
+port of Antakia, where the ship was laid close to the shore, where
+the elevated banks of the river form a kind of quay. Mina is a
+miserable village built close to the river’s right bank, consisting
+of about seven or eight houses, the best of which serves as a place
+of residence to the Aga, whom the Aga of Antakia appoints to
+receive the duties upon exports and imports. Higher up than Mina
+the Aasi is not navigated; the navigation is rendered impracticable
+by rocks, though there is plenty of water. Here, at the last stage
+of its course, it is a fine slow-flowing river, much about the size
+of the Thames beyond Richmond bridge; its waters are muddy, and
+this being the case in the month of June, three or four months
+after the rainy season, I suppose they can hardly be clear during
+any other part of the year.</p>
+
+<p>Arrived at Suedieh, I found myself very uncomfortably situated.
+I had lost my friend the Tripoline, and though he had warmly
+recommended me to the master of the Jackdur, yet I found the crew
+of the vessel to be thievous and treacherous; they spread the
+rumour amongst the people of Suedieh that I was a Frank, and as the
+ship was immediately to return to Tarsus, I expected to find myself
+completely at the mercy of the inhabitants; amongst whom, as well
+as amongst the crew, there was nobody who understood the Italian,
+or, as they called it, the Latin tongue. I remained on board the
+ship that day and the following; and was bargaining for a horse and
+mules to take me to Antakia, when, to my great satisfaction, a
+caravan from Aleppo came down to the coast with Indian goods; I
+soon got acquainted with the muleteers, and made my bargain with
+one of them for the whole journey, from Suedieh to Aleppo. He first
+asked fifty piastres per Kantar <span class="arabic" lang="ar">قنطار</span> (about five-hundred pounds English weight). I got
+him down to thirty, and was afterwards informed at Aleppo, that I
+should not have paid more than twenty-five. It is a great point
+gained by travellers in these countries, if they can make with
+their mule or camel drivers the usual bargain of the country. If
+the muleteer overcharges them, he makes a boast of it wherever he
+goes, the traveller is immediately known to be a person little
+conversant with the customs of the country, and he may be sure to
+be dealt with accordingly, in every respect, wherever the
+mule-driver accompanies him. I was helping the servants to
+distribute my baggage into mules loads, and to tie it round with
+cords, when the Aga sent for me. I found him smoking his pipe in a
+miserable room, surrounded by his people; entering<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xix">[xix]</span> the room I pulled off my
+slippers, and sat down on the floor before him. I shall here remark
+that it is a custom most strictly adhered to, never to sit down
+upon a carpet, or even a mat, and in presence of a man of rank, not
+even upon the bare floor, without pulling off the slippers, and if
+a person has but one pair on his feet, which is the Moggrebyn and
+the Greek fashion, he must sit down bare footed.</p>
+
+<p>After I had drank a dish of coffee, I asked the Aga what his
+pleasure was; he answered me, by making a sign with his thumb and
+forefinger, like a person counting money. I had several chests for
+the British Consul at Aleppo with me, and had also marked my own
+baggage with the Consul’s name, thinking by these means to prevent
+its being examined. He asked me what the chests contained, I
+expressed my ignorance about it, telling him only, that I thought
+there was a sort of Frank drink (beer), and some eatables, which I
+had been charged with at Malta, for the Consul, on my way home. He
+sent one of his people to look over their contents; a bottle of
+beer had been broken in loading, the man tasted it by putting his
+finger into the liquor, and found it abominably bitter: such was
+his report to the Aga. As a sample of the eatables, he produced a
+potatoe which he had taken out of one of the barrels, and that
+noble root excited a general laughter in the room, “It is well
+worth while,” they said, “to send such stuff to such a distance.”
+The Aga tasted of the raw potatoe, and spitting it out again, swore
+at the Frank’s stomach which could bear such food. The other trunks
+were now left unexamined; and I was asked fifteen piastres for the
+permission to depart with them. I gave him ten piastres, and
+received from him a sort of receipt for that money, because I told
+him that without it, the Consul would never believe that I had
+really paid down the money as duty upon his effects. The Aga was
+very high in his expressions, talking of his grandeur, how little
+he cared about the Sultan, and still less for any Consul, &amp;c.
+He laughed a great deal at my Arabic, which certainly was hardly
+intelligible; but he did not much trouble himself with questions
+about my affairs, his mind seeming now solely taken up by the hope
+of extorting money from the Aleppine merchants, and so I left him,
+and soon afterwards, about an hour before sunset, departed from
+Suedieh, with part of the caravan, the rest intending to pass the
+night there. The road from Suedieh to Antakia crosses the plain for
+about one hour’s distance. On the right runs in a deep bed a branch
+of the Aasi, and forms in this place several islands; on your left
+extends the well cultivated plain of Suedieh.</p>
+
+<p>As we approached the mountains which inclose the plain on the
+western side, we passed several extensive and regularly planted
+orchards, belonging to the Aga of Antakia; the road now lay through
+lanes thickly overhung on both sides with shrubs, and I was
+entering a country famous for the beauties of its landscape
+scenery, when the sun shed its last rays. We continued our way in
+the dark for about one hour and a half longer, and halted near a
+rivulet, at the entrance of the hills, where men and horses were
+fed: we remained there till about two hours after midnight.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xx">[xx]</span>From thence the
+road leads over a mountainous and rocky ground, abounding with
+trees and springs. At the break of day we passed a village and a
+considerable rivulet flowing towards our right; one hour’s march
+further another rivulet; the country then opens, and the traveller
+finds himself upon the ridge of a high plain, encompassed by the
+two beforementioned chains of mountains, from which he descends
+into the valley which the Aasi waters, and where he finds Antakia
+very picturesquely situated, near the foot of the southern chain of
+mountains, surrounded with gardens and well sown fields. It was yet
+early in the morning when we passed the river and entered the town;
+a strong built bridge leads over the river immediately into the
+town gate. I was stopped at the gate, and asked for one of the two
+pistols, which I wore in my girdle; I had told the people of the
+caravan that they belonged to the English Consul. My muleteer
+assured me that the pistol would be restored, I therefore gave it
+up voluntarily, well convinced it would have been forced from me
+against my will. The Aga’s man brought it back in the evening, I
+was asked two piastres for the returning of it; they had taken the
+flint, and the powder from the pan. Arrived at Antakia, the
+muleteer led his mules to the Khan of the muleteers; I might have
+gone to the Khan of the merchants, but having no body to accompany
+me and introduce me there, I preferred staying with the muleteers,
+whose way of living I also wished to see. The Khan is a large court
+yard built in a triangular shape: the basis of the triangle is
+distributed on both sides of the entrance door into small dark
+cells, which serve as magazines for the goods, and as places to
+cook in. On another side are the stables; and the whole length of
+the third side is taken up by a terrace built of stone, about four
+feet elevated from the ground, and eight feet broad, where the
+muleteers eat, sleep, and pray, that side of the Khan being built
+in the direction of Mecca. In the midst of the yard is a large
+water bason, which affords drink to men and beasts
+indiscriminately.</p>
+
+<p>My entrance into the Khan excited considerable curiosity, and
+the little cell I took possession of was soon beset by troublesome
+enquirers, who unanimously declared that I was a Frank come to the
+country for evil purposes. I had nobody to take my part except my
+muleteer, whose remonstrances in my behalf were soon lost in the
+general cry of Djaour (infidel) raised by the other inhabitants of
+the Khan and by the town’s people, who came to visit their
+friends.</p>
+
+<p>Whenever I could get any of them to listen to me for half an
+hour, I found means to appease them, but the town’s people did not
+even condescend to speak to me, and I evidently saw that their plan
+was to make religion a pretext, for practising an avanie upon me.
+My property fortunately was mixed with that of the Consul; a spare
+shirt and a carpet constituted my whole baggage; besides a pocket
+purse, containing the money necessary for my daily expenses, I had
+about twenty sequins hidden upon me.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxi">[xxi]</span> The Aga of Antakia sent his Dragoman to get
+something out of me. This was a wretched Frank, who pretended to be
+a Frenchman, but whom I should rather suppose to be a Piemontese. I
+pretended complete ignorance of the French language, he therefore
+asked me in Italian minutely about my affairs, and how I could
+attempt to travel home without any money or goods, to defray the
+expenses of the journey. I answered that I hoped the Consul, in
+remuneration of my having carefully watched his effects, would pay
+the expense of a camel from Aleppo to Bagdad, and that at the
+latter place I was sure of finding friends to facilitate my farther
+journey. When the man saw that nothing in my manners betrayed my
+Frank origin, he made a last trial, and pulling my beard a little
+with his hand, asked me familiarly “Why I had let such a thing
+grow?” I answered him with a blow upon his face, to convince the
+by-standing Turks, how deeply I resented the received insult; and
+the laugh now turned against the poor Dragoman, who did not trouble
+me any farther. I am at a loss to state how far I succeeded in
+sustaining my assumed character; I thought that the major part of
+the caravan people were gained over to my side, but the town’s
+people were constant in their imprecations against me. I had been
+flattered with an immediate departure for Aleppo, but the caravan
+was detained four days in the Khan. During the whole time of our
+stay, I spent the day time in the cell of the goods, amusing myself
+with cooking our victuals; the town’s people, though often
+assembled before the door of the room, never entered it; in the
+evening the gates of the Khan were shut, and I then went to sleep
+with the muleteers upon the terrace.</p>
+
+<p>I was relieved from this unpleasant situation on the 10th, when
+it was decided that the caravan should depart. The muleteers began
+preparing for their departure by dividing the whole court into
+squares of different sizes, by means of ropes, at the end of which
+iron wedges are fastened, which are driven into the earth up to
+their heads; each muleteer takes one of these squares proportionate
+in size to the number of his beasts; and loads them in it. Though
+the ropes are little more than one inch above ground, the animals
+never move out of the square assigned to them, and thus great order
+prevailed in the Khan, though it was dark when we loaded, and the
+whole court crowded with beasts and bales. At halting places when
+the beasts are fed, the same ropes are extended in front of them,
+to prevent their getting amongst the baggage.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot say much of Antakia, having seen nothing of it but the
+streets through which I entered. It looks like a neat town, at
+least in comparison to Tarsus: living is only half as dear as it is
+in Aleppo. This circumstance, joined to the beauty of the
+surrounding country, and the proximity of the sea would make it a
+desirable place for Franks to live in, were it not for the
+fanaticism of its inhabitants, who pride themselves upon being
+descendants from the Osmanlis the conquerors of Syria. Last year at
+a tumult raised<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxii">[xxii]</span>
+at Suedieh, these Osmanlis murdered the Greek Aga of Suedieh with
+his whole family, and a young French physician, who had come to his
+house to cure his son. The Aga of Antakia is appointed by the Grand
+Signior, and is independent of any Pasha.</p>
+
+<p>We marched the whole night of the 10th over a plain country, and
+reached early the next morning Hamsin, a village situated at nine
+hours march from Antakia, on the right bank of the Orontes. We
+passed the river in a ferry boat: its banks on both sides are about
+forty feet high at this place; its breadth is near fifty yards, the
+depth no where more than five feet. On a little eminence a few
+hundred paces from the ground on the river’s side where we
+encamped, rises a spring of excellent water; my companions however,
+drank of the muddy water of the Orontes, in preference to taking
+the trouble of filling their flasks at the spring. One of the
+merchants had a tent with him, under the shade of which we passed
+the whole day. In the evening the village youths kindled a large
+fire, and amused themselves with music and dancing. The next day we
+passed a chain of calcareous mountains planted here and there with
+olives; on the top of one of these mountains lives a custom-house
+officer, who exacted a toll from each individual, as it was said,
+in the name of the Grand Signior. The descent on the eastern side
+is steep, but the mules walked with the greatest firmness. In the
+valley into which we descended lies the town of Ermenaz
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ارمناز</span>,) watered by several
+streams. Though small, it is one of the best towns in this part of
+Syria; its gardens are cultivated with great care, and its
+inhabitants are industrious, because they are out of the immediate
+reach of rapacious Pashas and Janisaries. They work a glass
+manufacture which supplies Aleppo. The olives of the country round
+Aleppo are, next to those of Tripoly, the best in Syria: its grapes
+are likewise much esteemed. As we rode by, I saw lying on the right
+hand side of the road near the town, a broken ancient column of
+about four feet in diameter, and I was told afterwards in Aleppo,
+that many like remains of antiquity are to be met with in the
+neighbourhood of Ermenaz. At half an hour’s distance from this
+latter place we again began to mount, and the path became difficult
+and tiresome for the beasts, from the number of detached rocks with
+which it is overspread. After nearly eight hours march (meaning the
+whole day’s work), we descended into the eastern plain of Syria,
+and encamped at the foot of the mountains, round a large tree in
+the vicinity of a copious spring. Whenever the beasts were
+unloaden, it was with much difficulty that I could prevent my
+luggage from being thrown upon the ground. The caravan people in
+this country, and I should suppose every where else in the East,
+are accustomed to loads of bales of goods, which do not receive any
+injury from letting them fall to the ground. The loads on each side
+of the beast are tied together over its back, by a cord. Arrived at
+the halting place, the first thing the muleteer does, is to go from
+mule to mule to unloosen that cord; the loads then fall to the
+ground. This mode of unloading, and the great<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxiii">[xxiii]</span> carelessness of these people, render
+the transport of many European commodities utterly impracticable,
+without their being accompanied by a servant sent along with them,
+for the express purpose of taking off the loads. A Frank merchant
+of Aleppo received some years ago a load of Venetian
+looking-glasses which were all dashed to pieces. Provided the
+chests which contain the merchandize be entire, the muleteer thinks
+himself free from responsibility. We were joined in the evening by
+some other travellers, whose curiosity led them to new inquiries
+about my person and affairs. None of my companions had till now
+found out any thing which could have directly inculpated myself;
+they however kept a strict watch over all my motions: being obliged
+at night to go aside, two of the travellers last arrived followed
+me unseen, and pretended afterwards to have observed some
+irregularities in the ablutions necessary to be performed on such
+occasions; in consequence of which, I was told that I was “Harām,”
+or in a forbidden unclean state, and notwithstanding every thing I
+said to defend and excuse myself, I found that from that time I had
+lost the good opinion of all my companions. We marched the next day
+six hours, and halted at Mart Mesrin, a village belonging to
+Ibrahim Pasha, who in the time of Djezar was Pasha of Aleppo,
+afterwards Pasha of Damascus, and who lives now in disgrace and
+poverty at this place, the whole appearance of which makes it
+probable, that in a few years hence it will be deserted by its
+inhabitants. The wide extended plain over which we marched this day
+consists almost throughout of a fertile soil, but without any
+trees, and in most places uncultivated, but where a number of
+ruined and deserted villages, indicate that many parts of it must
+have formerly been cultivated. Having been much plagued during this
+whole day by my fellow travellers, and in the evening also by the
+peasants, who had collected round the caravan; I swore that I would
+not eat any more with any of them. This declaration being somewhat
+in the Arab style, they were startled at it; and my muleteer
+especially much pressed me to rejoin their mess; I assured him that
+I would rather eat nothing and starve, than have any further
+friendly dealings with men who professed themselves my friends one
+day, and proved my enemies the next, (it should be observed that
+this was the last stage of our journey, I therefore did not run
+great risk in making good my words). The tract of country over
+which we passed on the following day was similar in appearance to
+that which we had seen on the preceding. The number of deserted and
+ruined villages increased the nearer we approached Aleppo; we had
+marched about eight hours when we discerned the castle of Aleppo,
+at the sight of which the armed horsemen of the caravan set off at
+a gallop, and repeatedly fired off their guns; the merchants put
+themselves ahead of the caravan and after one hour’s march farther,
+we entered the town. All merchandizes coming to Aleppo must be
+taken to the custom-house Khan <span class="arabic" lang="ar">ترك
+خان</span>; they are weighed there to determine the amount of the
+sum due to the muleteer for freight, and a duty must be paid for
+them to the Grand Signior, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxiv">[xxiv]</span> together with the taxation money of the
+Christians and Jews, is the only branch of revenue which the
+Janissaries, the present masters of the town, still allow the Porte
+to retain. The English consular house is in that very Khan.</p>
+
+<p>I was now arrived at Aleppo in a shape which entirely left it to
+my option, either to continue in my disguise, or to avow my
+European origin. After a long conversation on that subject with Mr.
+Barker, I was convinced that it would better answer the purpose of
+my stay in Aleppo to choose the latter, and my reasons for it were
+the following: at the time I left England and Malta, I imagined
+that the intercourse between Cairo and Aleppo was frequent, and
+that it might easily happen, that Cairine merchants might see me
+here and recognise me afterwards at home, or that travelling
+Aleppines who knew me here, might afterwards see me again in Egypt.
+The departure of the Syrian pilgrim caravan to Mecca, not having
+taken place for the last three years, has almost annihilated the
+commercial intercourse overland between the two countries. At the
+meeting of the Syrian and African caravan near Mecca, Egyptian
+merchants used formerly to join the former, and return with them to
+Damascus and Aleppo, and vice versa; at present the little commerce
+carried on between Cairo and Aleppo, is entirely in the hands of a
+few Turkish and Greek houses at Tripoli, Latikia, and Alexandria,
+and the Egyptian merchants themselves never come to Aleppo. Had I
+continued in my disguise, and continued to live exclusively amongst
+the Turks, opportunities would have frequently happened to put the
+veracity of my story to the test. East Indians come from time to
+time to Aleppo with the Bagdad caravan, and many of the Bagdad and
+Bassorah merchants established at Aleppo have been in India. My
+person would have been infinitely more noticed than it now is, if
+taking a shop in the bazar, as I first intended, I should have
+exposed myself to the curiosity of the whole town; I should have
+entirely foregone the instruction to be derived from books and
+masters skilled in the language; and moreover I have no doubt that
+the French Consul residing here would have heard of my arrival, and
+have done every thing to put my pursuits in a dubious light. These
+are the reasons which convinced me, that for the present time it
+was more advisable to appear in a shape which would preclude the
+intrusion of curious inquirers; and afford more facility to my
+studies. I continue my name of Ibrahim, and pass in my Turkish
+dress unnoticed in the crowds of the street and the bazars. The
+Consul receives me at his house as a travelling country merchant of
+his; and as it frequently happens that people coming into the
+Levant change their names; nobody wonders at my being called with
+an oriental name. I had first my doubts whether my fellow caravan
+travellers might not be over inquisitive here; but such of them as
+I have since met, greeted me without further questions, and the
+government of the city is now such, that a man picking a quarrel
+with me about what I might have told him at Antakia, would only
+expose himself to be fined for a sum of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxv">[xxv]</span> money by the Janissaries, the masters of
+the town, for their trouble to settle the business with the
+Consul.</p>
+
+<p>My plans for the present are to remain at Aleppo the whole of
+the winter and part of next summer. I have been fortunate enough to
+find a good and willing master of Arabic, and I hope to make
+progress in the study of the literal as well as vulgar language. As
+soon as I shall be able to express myself with some precision in
+the vulgar dialect, and perfectly to understand it, I shall visit
+the Bedouin Arabs in the Desert, and live with them some months. I
+can do this in perfect security; and I have no doubt that you will
+approve of it, as it will afford me the best opportunity of
+practising the manners and becoming acquainted with the character
+of a class of people who are the same, whether they over-run the
+deserts of Arabia or those of Africa.</p>
+
+<p>You need not be afraid that the history of my own person, which
+has taken up so considerable a portion of the preceding pages, will
+any more be exhibited before you at such a length. I thought it
+might be of some interest to the Association, to see how far I was
+able to succeed in making good my way to Aleppo in the disguise in
+which I left London; unaided as I was by a knowledge of Eastern
+languages, or a familiarity with Eastern manners. This trial has so
+far been satisfactory to me, that, in the first place, I am
+persuaded that nothing of my pursuits has transpired at Malta,
+which will always be of material consequence to me; secondly, in
+being landed at a remote corner of Syria, I have avoided the
+general intercourse of a mercantile seaport, such as Acre, Beirout,
+Tripoly, or Latakia; and finally, it has created within me the
+confidence that whenever I may be able to call in support of a
+similar disguise, a fluent utterance of Arabic, and a habitude of
+Oriental manners, I shall easily find means to triumph over such
+obstacles as those I met with in the Khan at Antakia.</p>
+
+<p>A few days after my arrival at Aleppo, I was attacked by a
+strong inflammatory fever which lasted a fortnight. The want of
+night’s rest occasioned by the quantity of vermin which had
+collected upon my person, principally during my stay in the Khan of
+Antakia, was, as I thought, the cause of it. I have enjoyed perfect
+health since that time, and the climate agrees with me better than
+I expected.</p>
+
+<p><em>Aleppo, October 2nd,</em> 1809.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Mr. Burckhardt remained two years and a half in Syria, making
+daily additions to his practical knowledge of the Arabic language,
+and to his experience of the character of Orientals, and of
+Mohammedan society and manners. His principal residence was at
+Aleppo. Having assumed the name of Ibrahim Ibn Abdallah at Malta,
+he continued to bear it in Syria; but apprehensive of not having
+yet had sufficient experience, thoroughly to act the
+part<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxvi">[xxvi]</span> of a
+Mussulman, and finding no necessity for such a disguise at Aleppo,
+he was not studious to conceal his European origin, and wore only
+such a Turkish dress, as is often assumed in Syria by English
+travellers, less for the sake of concealment than to avoid
+occasional insult. Thus he had the benefit of an unmolested
+intercourse with the Mussulman population of Aleppo, at the same
+time that he was not prevented from openly accepting the friendship
+and protection of Mr. Barker, the British Consul, nor under the
+necessity of denying himself the social resources afforded by the
+houses of the European residents; especially those of Mr. Barker,
+and of Mr. Masseyk, formerly Dutch Consul. Of his obligations to
+the former of these gentlemen, he omitted no opportunity of bearing
+testimony.</p>
+
+<p>Besides two short tours which he made from Aleppo, he was absent
+from thence in the year 1810, for six months, during which time he
+visited Palmyra, remained three months at Damascus, and from thence
+made two journeys into the neighbouring districts; one through the
+Libanus and Anti-Libanus, and the other through the unexplored
+country of the Haouran, or Auranitis. After his final departure
+from Aleppo, in February 1812, he again made some stay at Damascus,
+and performed a second journey in the Haouran, including a part of
+the ancient Decapolis. Upon quitting Damascus for Egypt, he visited
+Tiberias and Nazareth, and from thence having crossed to the
+Eastern side of the Jordan, proceeded through the countries to the
+east and South of the Dead Sea, until he arrived at Wady Mousa,
+where he had the satisfaction of discovering the remains of a large
+ancient city, consisting of a great number of buildings and
+monuments excavated in the rocks, a singularity which, added to the
+testimony of ancient history, marks the place for the site of
+Petra, the capital of Arabia Petræa. From Wady Mousa he pursued a
+westerly course towards the capital of Egypt, across the valley of
+Araba, and the desert of El Tyh.</p>
+
+<p>A sketch of his travels in Syria is communicated in
+letters<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxvii">[xxvii]</span> which
+he addressed from time to time to Sir Joseph Banks, or to Mr.
+Hamilton, Secretary of the Association. The following are extracts
+of the most interesting parts of this correspondence.</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Aleppo, May 12,</em> 1810.</p>
+
+<p>With the present I transmit to you in duplicate a short sketch
+of the recent history of Aleppo, and some notices concerning the
+Turkmans Rihanli, which I collected during a visit to them in the
+beginning of March last. They are a tribe of Nomade Turkmans, who
+encamp in winter time at one day’s journey from Aleppo. I got
+myself introduced to one of their chiefs as a physician in search
+of medicinal herbs, and spent a fortnight amongst them.</p>
+
+<p>I am now so far advanced in the knowledge of Arabic, that I
+understand almost every thing that is said in common conversation,
+and am able to make myself understood on most subjects, although
+sometimes with difficulty. I have made acquaintance with some
+Shikhs, and some of the first literati amongst the Turks of Aleppo,
+who from time to time visit me. I owe this favour principally to
+Mr. Wilkins’s Arabic and Persian Dictionary. The common manuscript
+dictionaries, or Kamus, being generally very defective, the learned
+Turks are often very glad to consult Wilkins, and never do it
+without exclaiming “How wonderful that a Frank should know more of
+our language than our first Ulemas.” Learning at Aleppo is in a
+very low state; no science, the Turkish law excepted, is properly
+cultivated; not even that of Arabic grammar, which is so necessary
+to the interpretation of the Koran. I am assured by the best
+authority, that there are now in this town only three men, (two
+Turks and a Christian) who know this language grammatically. The
+chief quality of a literary man is that of getting by heart a great
+number of verses made upon different occasions, and of knowing the
+proper opportunity of reciting them; to this must be added, a
+knowledge of the different learned significations of one and the
+same word, and of the words which express the same idea. For
+example, the word Adjuz, which in common language means a decrepid
+old man, has in the learned language about sixty other different
+significations; and there are in Arabian poetry about one hundred
+and fifty different words for wine. But to interpret passages of
+difficult grammatical construction, or rationally to amend errors,
+or even to compose prose or verse free from grammatical blunders,
+is a task much above the capacity of an Aleppine Ulema.</p>
+
+<p>Two Persian Dervishes arrived here about two months ago, who had
+lived upwards of two years at the Wahabi court of Derayeh. I got
+acquainted with one of them, a young man of twenty-two; the other
+has gone to Mosul, from whence his companion shortly expects his
+return. The latter has been in the habit, singular enough for
+a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxviii">[xxviii]</span> Mohammedan
+traveller, of keeping a regular journal of his travels, describing
+whatever struck his inquisitive mind, and abounding, as I
+understand, with geographical notices.</p>
+
+<p>Another traveller of a singular description passed here two
+years ago. He called himself Aly Bey, and professed to be born of
+Tunisian parents in Spain, and to have received his education in
+that country. Spanish appears to be his native language, besides
+which he spoke French, a little Italian, and the Moggrebyn dialect
+of Arabic, but badly. He came to Aleppo by the way of Cairo, Yaffa,
+and Damascus, with the strongest letters of recommendation from the
+Spanish Government to all its agents, and an open credit upon them.
+He seemed to be a particular friend of the Prince of the Peace, for
+whom he was collecting antiques; and from the manner in which it
+was known that he was afterwards received by the Spanish ambassador
+at his arrival in Constantinople, he must have been a man of
+distinction. The description of his figure, and what he related of
+his travels, called to my recollection the Spaniard Badia and his
+miniature in your library.<a id="FNanchor_3"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_3">[3]</a> He
+was a man of middling size, long thin head, black eyes, large nose,
+long black beard, and feet that indicated the former wearing of
+tight shoes. He professed to have travelled in Barbary, to have
+crossed the Lybian Desert between Barbary and Egypt, and from Cairo
+to have gone to Mekka, and back. He travelled with Eastern
+magnificence, but here he was rather shy of shewing himself out of
+doors; he never walked out but on Fridays to the prayers of noon,
+in the great mosque. One of the beforementioned Dervishes told me
+that there had been a great deal of talking about this Aly Bey, at
+Damascus and Hama; they suspected him of being a Christian, but his
+great liberality and the pressing letters which he brought to all
+the people of consequence, stopped all further enquiry. He was
+busily employed in arranging and putting in order his journal
+during the two months of his stay at Aleppo.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Aleppo, 2nd July,</em> 1810.</p>
+
+<p>My long stay in Syria having been determined upon, in
+consequence of the absolute necessity of my familiarising myself
+with the idiom of these countries, I shall deem it my duty to send
+you from time to time some vouchers of my application to Arabic
+literature. I have for some time past been engaged in an Arabic
+exercise, which has proved of great utility to me; it is the
+metamorphosis of the well known novel of Robinson Crusoe into an
+Arabian tale, adapted to Eastern taste and manners. A young Frank
+born at Aleppo, who speaks Arabic like a native, but who neither
+reads nor writes it, has been my assistant in the undertaking. I
+take the liberty of sending you here inclosed a copy of this
+travestied Robinson, or as I call the book in Arabic, Dur el Bahur,
+the Pearl of the Seas. Of the merits or defects of the translation
+I can claim at most forty per cent.; the handwriting excepted,
+which is my own.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxix">[xxix]</span>I am on the
+eve of leaving Aleppo for an excursion into the Desert, and shall
+probably set out the day after to-morrow. My good luck conducted
+some days ago an Arab Shikh to town, who is the mightiest chief of
+all the Arabs between Aleppo, Damascus, and Bagdad. He came for the
+purpose of receiving in person the passage duties upon certain
+goods which are shortly to be sent by means of a great caravan to
+Bagdad. He belongs to the wide extended tribe of the Aenezy, who
+have all become Wahabi; his own very powerful tribe is called the
+Tedhan, and his name is Duehy Ibn Ryeiben. I easily got acquainted
+with him; we ate and drank together, and I succeeded in making an
+agreement with him, that he should take me by way of Tedmor or
+Palmyra home to his family and tents, which he says are not far
+from Damascus in the plain of Haouran; he himself came to Aleppo
+accompanied only by a few people upon dromedaries. He is to shew me
+his tents and horses, of which latter I told him the English Consul
+here might be perhaps induced to buy some upon my recommendation;
+and he is then to set me down at Damascus.</p>
+
+<p>He is known to all the principal Bagdad merchants of this town,
+and my agreement with him has been made in writing, signed by the
+most respectable of these merchants, as witnesses; I am so far in
+perfect tranquillity as to the security of my person under his
+protection. He is indeed a famous robber, but the Shikhs of the
+Desert have never been known to withdraw their protection from
+those to whom they have promised it.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Damascus, August 15,</em> 1810.</p>
+
+<p>The Arab Shikh mentioned in my last kept true to his engagements
+only during the two first days of our journey. Instead of
+conducting me, on the third day, in person, to Hamah, he gave me
+one of his men as a guide. Returning the next day towards the
+watering place seven hours east of Hamah, where we had left the
+Shikh, we were attacked and stript by a party of Mawáli Arabs, who,
+unfortunately for me, happened to be engaged in a quarrel with the
+Aenezy tribe of the Shikh. A watch and compass were the only
+articles I regretted to have lost; as to cash, I had not a single
+farthing in my pocket. We returned to the town, to refit ourselves
+as well as possible, and then set out again the next night, to
+rejoin our chief. The latter had however in the interval left the
+watering-place; we were obliged to run after him in the Desert for
+thirty-six hours, and finding him at last at another watering-place
+he declared to me that he could not possibly conduct me himself any
+further, because his people had very much pressed his return,
+afraid as they were of the approaching Wahabi. In reply to my
+remonstrances, he offered me another guide to take me to Tedmor,
+and from thence to the Haouran. With this guide I reached Tedmor
+after a march of thirty hours, and contemplated the wonders of the
+Palm city for nearly two days. The Shikh of Tedmor, in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxx">[xxx]</span> consideration of my empty
+purse, contented himself with taking my saddle from me. Leaving
+Tedmor we reached by a forced march Kariatein in one day, and from
+thence Yerud, a village about twelve hours to the N. E. of
+Damascus. Duehy, the Arab chief, had passed there a few days
+before, and knowing that my guide would likewise take that route,
+he had left at the village-Shikh’s house, an open letter to my
+address, in which he peremptorily told me not to proceed any
+farther in my journey towards the Haouran, but to go direct to
+Damascus, because he was determined to fly with his tribe away from
+the Wahabi. The fact was, that he did not wish to feed me under his
+tents for two months, according to our contract. Convinced that the
+whole was but a trick, I insisted upon proceeding in the original
+direction. My guide, however, refused to accompany me; he even left
+me in the evening; there were no other trusty people present to
+guide my steps through the Desert, I was therefore at last obliged
+to follow Duehy’s advice, and came to this place with a salt
+caravan from Tedmor, which I had found at Yerud. Two days after my
+arrival Duehy likewise made his appearance, and there being nobody
+present to take up my cause against him, I was obliged strictly to
+fulfil the stipulations of our contract, which he on his side had
+thus shamefully eluded.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding these disappointments, which often occur to
+travellers in these countries, my tour to Tedmor has given me much
+satisfaction. Besides the pleasure of seeing those interesting
+ruins, I have had some good opportunities of observing the Bedouins
+under their own tents; we alighted every day at different
+encampments, and were every where received with hospitality and
+kindness.</p>
+
+<p>I should have put my project of visiting the Haouran in
+execution, even before now, had not the recent changes in the
+government of this city, and the state of suspense which it
+naturally occasions, in the districts depending upon it, rendered
+the roads insecure, and the inhabitants more than usually
+suspicious of strangers, until the new Pasha shall have had time
+firmly to establish himself in his newly acquired territory. A few
+days after my arrival at Damascus, Yussef Pasha, who had governed
+the town and its territory for the last four years, was turned out,
+and his place occupied by Soleiman Pasha of Akke (Acre.) This
+change being connected with the interruption of the pilgrim caravan
+to Mekka, and with the late Wahabi affairs, some details concerning
+it may perhaps be thought acceptable. As to the state of the Wahabi
+power in the southern parts of Arabia, I must confess that I am in
+perfect ignorance of it. Without being an eye witness, or meeting
+by chance with a credible eye witness, it is impossible to guide
+oneself through the labyrinth of false reports, which policy,
+fanaticism, and party spirit spread on their account. To mention
+but one instance: at my leaving Aleppo the general voice was, that
+the Wahabi were at the gates of Damascus.</p>
+
+<p>It is now the sixth year since the Damascus pilgrim caravan,
+which included the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxxi">[xxxi]</span> Hadjis of the greatest part of the
+Turkish dominions, has not been able to reach Mekka. In 1805,
+Abdallah Pasha, then Pasha of Damascus, set out at the head of a
+caravan; having arrived in the neighbourhood of Medineh, the Wahabi
+governor of that city, by orders of Ibn el Saoud the great Wahabi
+chief, refused entrance to the caravan. The Hadjis were obliged to
+pass on the outside of the walls, and thus continued their way
+towards the Kaaba. They were yet three days journey from it, when
+they found themselves surrounded by the innumerable host of Saoud’s
+army. The two parties came to a parley, when Saoud declared to the
+Pasha, that he should thenceforward suffer no Turkish army to march
+through his territory, and that the army must therefore immediately
+return; but that those Hadjis who were determined to complete their
+pilgrimage might continue their way in safety, on condition that
+they should go unarmed, and promise to stay only three days at the
+holy city. None of the pilgrims were tempted to accept the offer of
+a free passage. Abdallah himself, frightened by the Wahabi numbers,
+made Saoud conceive hopes that he would be a convert to the new
+religion. Before he returned, it was stipulated that in case of any
+caravan taking its departure the following year, there should be
+neither Pasha nor army to convoy it; that all the Hadjis should be
+unarmed and without ammunition; that there should be no Mahmal (the
+camel which carries the new carpet for the decoration of the
+Kaaba); and that arrived at the same place where they then were,
+Saoud should have the right of selecting the individuals who were
+to proceed, while the others should wait there for the speedy
+return of their brethren. It is said that Abdallah Pasha was
+obliged by his officers to give his consent to these shameful
+articles. He insisted upon their attesting with their signatures
+that he had declared his determination to appeal to the sword, but
+that he was prevented from doing so, by their unanimous opinion
+that it was better not to shed blood. The Hadj returned to Damascus
+and Constantinople, and Abdallah sent the attestation of his
+officers to Constantinople, to excuse his retreat. Instead of
+recruiting and strengthening his forces, and protecting the next
+year the caravan with an army capable of forcing its way through
+the Wahabi tribes, Abdallah set out in 1806, with a corps not
+exceeding 8000 men, and a very small caravan of Hadjis. They were
+met, at three days journey from Mekka, by the Sherif of Mekka, who
+is a subject of the Wahabi. He told them that he had positive
+orders to refuse to any armed force the entrance into the holy
+city; but he again offered to let the unarmed Hadjis complete their
+pilgrimage. It is said that Abdallah had beforehand entered into
+some secret negociations with the Sherif, and that the latter had
+declared his wish to join the Pasha, with the Mekka people, against
+the Wahabi; thinking, of course, that the Pasha would not hazard
+the Hadj, without being accompanied by a considerable force; but
+that when he saw the small number of the troops and the
+mutinous<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxxii">[xxxii]</span> spirit
+which reigned amongst them, he remained true to his former
+engagements with Ibn Saoud.</p>
+
+<p>Abdallah returned to Damascus a second time, without having been
+able to accomplish the pilgrimage, which he had formerly led
+fifteen times to Mekka and back to Damascus. He soon afterwards
+fell into disgrace with the Grand Signor, when Yussef Aga, an
+upstart, who from the rank of a simple soldier, had raised himself
+to the first dignities in the town, was named Pasha of Damascus.
+His military temper and courage were known, and he had promised to
+conduct the Hadj. It may be necessary to explain here the policy of
+the Pasha of Damascus and of the Porte respecting the Hadj. The
+Miri, or land tax, of the Pashaliks of Damascus and Tripoli, which,
+according to the original assessment amounted to about 3500 purses,
+(it is now worth more than triple that sum,) has been abandoned to
+the Pasha of Damascus for the necessary expense of the Hadj; and to
+the Pasha of Tripoli for the expense of the Djerde, or caravan of
+provisions, which meets the Hadjis on their return. Besides these
+3500 purses, the Pasha of Damascus contributes at least 1000 more,
+out of his own treasury, because the expenses, particularly the
+tribute paid to the Arab tribes on the pilgrim route, are yearly
+increasing. Abdallah Pasha, who had already given apparent proofs
+of his zeal for the Hadj, seeing the power of the Porte daily
+decreasing, and knowing the terror which the Wahabi name had
+inspired, thought that the time was come, when, without inculpating
+himself, he might at last put a stop to the Hadj, and add its
+expenses to the revenue of the Pashalik. For this reason, he
+neglected to recruit the forces, which were to accompany the
+pilgrims, as he might have done, if it had been his real intention
+to favour the Hadj, and he returned the second year to prove to the
+country that if he himself, who had so often led the Hadj to Mekka,
+was no longer able to do so, certainly any other person who should
+attempt it, would be equally unsuccessful. The Porte however
+prevented his design; before the conclusion of 1806, Yussef Pasha
+was named to the command of Damascus, and Abdallah Pasha, who was
+much disliked in the town, peacefully retired to Aleppo, where he
+lives now as a private grandee. Yussef Pasha governed the territory
+of Damascus and Tripoli for four years, without once conducting the
+caravan. What Abdallah had projected his successor executed; the
+Miri, instead of defraying the expenses of the Hadj, or being
+accounted for to the Porte, entered into the Pasha’s chests. In the
+present degenerate and tottering state of the empire, the Porte has
+forgot that the religious and fanatical spirit which is diffused
+over its subjects by the visitors of the Kaaba, is perhaps the last
+supporter of its political existence. She thinks no longer of the
+religious importance of the pilgrimage; her troubles and cares are
+all for money; as if money alone would uphold an empire.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxxiii">[xxxiii]</span>Yussef
+Pasha was the best Pasha Damascus ever had; his firmness and
+justice kept the turbulent Damascenes in order; he never committed
+avanies upon the inhabitants, and was respected and even liked by
+every honest man. He had one vice however which the Porte never
+forgives in its officers, that of avarice. Instead of transmitting
+the greater part of the Miri to the Porte, who had a claim to it
+all, as not being employed in the expense of the Hadj, the sums
+carried by his yearly envoys to Constantinople, every thing
+included, did not amount to more than fifteen hundred purses; he
+thought himself sure of the attachment of his troops and the
+country people; and slighted the Porte’s remonstrances.</p>
+
+<p>It was under these circumstances that in May last the news
+spread over the country, that Ibn Saoud, the chief of the Wahabi,
+had left his head quarters at Derayeh at the head of an immense
+army, with hostile intentions against Syria. Their arrival spread
+general terror; the rich caravans which were expected from Bagdad
+at Aleppo and Damascus were immediately countermanded; and although
+there was no certain intelligence of the intended route of the
+Wahabi, it was supposed that their first attempt would be upon
+Damascus. Others, and perhaps better informed people, were of
+opinion, that Saoud came to punish the Aenezy, who, divided into
+more than one hundred and fifty different tribes, people the desert
+as far as ten journeys to the east of Aleppo, Hamah, Homs, and
+Damascus. The Aenezy had long ago been converted to the Wahabi
+faith, but had for the last three years neglected to pay the fifth
+or tribute, which Saoud exacts from all his followers.<a id="FNanchor_4"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_4">[4]</a> At the same time, there were still several
+tribes of Arabs, inhabiting the plains and mountains on both sides
+of the Hadj route, as far as the eighth stage from Damascus, who
+were not yet Wahabi, and their conversion might likewise enter into
+Saoud’s plan. The Pasha of Damascus was glad to see fresh obstacles
+arise to prevent the pilgrims from proceeding, and have a new
+excuse to the Porte, for not transmitting the Miri, which he might
+now be supposed to employ for his preparations against the
+approaching enemy. The month of June passed away, and nothing sure
+was yet known of the direction which Saoud had taken. In the
+beginning of July, intelligence reached the town from Mezerib, a
+castle on the third stage of the pilgrims route, that the Aga
+commanding in the place had been attacked by swarms of Wahabi.
+Yussef Pasha immediately left the town at the head of above 5000
+men. Arrived at Mezerib he found that his officer had already
+repulsed the attack, and that twelve of the enemy had been killed;
+their heads were forthwith dispatched to Constantinople, and this
+insignificant skirmish blazoned forth as an important victory. A
+person who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxxiv">[xxxiv]</span> was
+at that time with the Pasha at Mezerib has assured me, that the
+corps of Arabs which attacked the castle consisted of about 800
+men, mounted upon camels and armed with lances. Saoud, it was said,
+had fixed his head-quarters, with the great body of his army, at
+about two days journey from Damascus, amongst the encampments of a
+Wahabi tribe called Shammar. The Pasha of Acre was now required to
+send troops in aid of Yussef Pasha; the Emir Beshir, or chief of
+the Druses, was addressed to the same effect, and Yussef Pasha
+remained from the 9th of July till the 26th at Mezerib without so
+much as seeing an enemy; but he had the mortification to hear that
+Saoud’s vanguard had plundered and entirely destroyed seventeen of
+the best villages of the Haouran, and massacred all the
+inhabitants. Soleiman Pasha of Acre had meanwhile encamped with
+about three thousand men at Tabaria, and the Emir Beshir had joined
+him there with as many more Druses. The town of Damascus was in
+perfect tranquillity, the fear of the Wahabis having already
+subsided, when on the 25th a civil officer came to town with a
+letter from Soleiman Pasha, addressed to the Kadi, Ulemas, and
+Grandees of Damascus, including the copy of a Firman from the
+Porte, by which Yussef Pasha was deposed, and Soleiman Pasha named
+Pasha of Damascus. Soleiman had obtained his Firman by transmitting
+considerable sums of money to Constantinople, by promising to
+conduct the Hadj, or in case it should be absolutely impossible, to
+remit the Miri, and at all events to send Yussef’s accumulated
+treasures to the Grand Signor. Nothing was done in his favour at
+Damascus but to deposit, as usual, a copy of the Firman in the
+registers of the Mehkemeh, or court of justice. Yussef Pasha, by
+forced marches, arrived three days after with his army, and ordered
+several heads to be struck off. Soleiman Pasha with the Emir Beshir
+likewise advanced, and the town was in expectation of some great
+event. Luckily for its inhabitants Yussef Pasha’s avarice prevented
+a civil war; instead of liberally distributing his treasures
+amongst his troops, he only paid them a part of their arrears, upon
+which the emissaries of Soleiman fomented the dissatisfaction which
+began to break out, the principal officers were bought over, and in
+a little skirmish that happened on the 31st, the troops of Yussef
+loudly expressed their disinclination to fight their master’s
+rival. By the sacrifice of his treasures Yussef Pasha might perhaps
+have been able to sustain his cause. Being informed that Soleiman
+was in possession of a second Firman which demanded his head, he
+determined suddenly to fly. He was preparing to leave his Seraglio
+in the night of the 1st of August, accompanied by about
+eight-hundred chosen horsemen, with his treasure loaded upon
+seventy mules, when his Arnauts, who were to have been left behind,
+fell upon the loaded mules, part of which had already nearly gained
+the town-gates, forced open the money chests and pillaged the
+whole. The guard of eight hundred men, seeing there was now nothing
+more to be gained in the Pasha’s service, deserted him, and the
+broken hearted Pasha, who during four years<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxxv">[xxxv]</span> had been the benefactor of Damascus,
+was lucky in securing his retreat, with six or seven of his suite,
+amongst a friendly tribe of Arabs in the neighbourhood of the city.
+Soleiman made his solemn entrance into Damascus on the 5th of
+August, and is now joint Pasha of three Pashaliks: Damascus, Acre,
+and Tripoli, that is to say, he is in possession of almost the
+whole of Syria, from Gaza to the vicinity of Aleppo and Antioch.
+Soleiman Pasha is by birth a Georgian Christian; he was brought up
+by Djezzar as a Turkish slave, and was much liked by his master,
+who elevated him to the first situations, in his Pashalik of Acre.
+After the death of Djezzar, Soleiman made himself master of Acre,
+by expelling Ismael Pasha, who had succeeded Djezzar, and the Porte
+soon after recognised him. He bears a good character, at least as
+good as any Pasha can sustain without being made a fool of. His
+principal favourite and counsellor is a rich Jew, named Haym, whose
+talents had already been acknowledged by Djezzar. After having cut
+off his nose and ears, and torn out one of his eyes, that monster
+kept him for ten years a prisoner in his Seraglio, obliging him
+during the whole time to conduct all his most important affairs.
+Under Soleiman Pasha, Haym has governed Acre, and it is worthy of
+remark, that at the very same time, the principal men of business
+of Soleiman’s rival Yussef, were the two brothers and the cousin of
+Haym, who are supposed to be the richest house in Damascus. Now
+that Soleiman is Pasha of both places, the whole fraternity is
+here, and the Jews of Syria may flatter themselves (as the
+Christians here say) that Israel reigns again in his ancient
+limits.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing farther has transpired of the Wahabi; but it is easy to
+foresee that Soleiman Pasha will soon raise again the Wahabi
+war-cry.</p>
+
+<p>Having had frequent occasions during my stay at Aleppo to
+observe the deplorable state of the whole country round it, it has
+been a very gratifying sight to me to witness the comparative ease
+and I might even say wealth of the inhabitants of the territory of
+Damascus. The neighbourhood of the city in particular is in a very
+prosperous state, owing partly to the richness of the ground, which
+is no where equalled in Syria, partly to the effect of Yussef
+Pasha’s government, who during his whole reign never extorted any
+extraordinary contributions from the peasant, and protected him
+against the oppressions of minor tyrants. It is the misfortune of
+the Turkish government, at least in its present decayed state, that
+popular virtues in the persons of its governors are quite
+incompatible with the Porte’s own views. The Porte demands
+supplies, and nothing but supplies; and the Pasha, to satisfy her,
+must press upon the industry of his subjects. He who is the
+well-wisher of his people, who contents himself with the ordinary
+revenue, and who lets justice preside in his councils, will
+undoubtedly incur his sovereign’s displeasure, not because he is
+just, but because his justice prevents him from plundering and
+transmitting a portion of the acquired plunder to the Diwan. To
+save his existence he has nothing left but silently to resign his
+unhappy subjects to the rod<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxxvi">[xxxvi]</span> of a succeeding despot, or to declare
+himself a rebel and to contend with his rival until the Porte,
+convinced of the difficulty of deposing him, patiently waits for a
+more favourable opportunity of effecting her purposes. These
+principles are applicable to all persons in office, from the Pasha
+down to the Shikh of the smallest village; and it is to them that
+the rapid decay of Turkey is chiefly to be ascribed. It requires
+but one year’s reign of a man like Djezzar to destroy the benefits
+of the four years government of a Yussef. The rapidity however,
+with which ease and wealth are seen to reflow into the reopened
+channels of industry, prove that Syria, on the downfall of the
+Turkish empire, would soon regain its former lustre.</p>
+
+<p>My last letter, of the 4th of July, from Aleppo, was accompanied
+by an Arabic imitation of the well known novel of Robinson Crusoe,
+arranged so as to suit the Arabian taste. I was desirous of giving
+some proof of my application to the study of that language. I can
+conscientiously say, that I have done, and still do, every thing in
+my power to make myself master of it, but I must confess that I
+find its difficulties out of proportion to the time which has been
+allotted to me, to surmount them. I have no other motives in this
+confession than the sincerest zeal to succeed in my travels to the
+fullest expectations of the African Association. A two years
+residence in Syria was thought sufficient to enable me to speak
+with <em>fluency</em>. After one year’s stay, I think I may be
+allowed to be able to calculate what remains yet to be done, and I
+conclude that a twelve month more of study and practice is not
+sufficient for the remaining task. I therefore take the liberty to
+entreat the Committee to allow me six months more, over the already
+granted two years, before I proceed to Egypt. If the Committee is
+persuaded of the truth of what I advance, a delay of six months and
+the expense accompanying it, will not be thought an object, nor
+will it, I trust, be believed, that after the expiration of the
+prolonged term, I shall again demand a farther delay. The
+additional six months, however, is of the greatest importance to
+me, because I know from experience that when once tolerably
+conversant with a language, a short practice has a more rapid
+effect than triple the time employed in getting over the first
+difficulties. In case no distinct answer to this application should
+arrive before next July, I shall look upon my proposition as
+rejected, and strictly follow the tenour of my former
+instructions.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Aleppo, January 6th,</em> 1811.</p>
+
+<p>I had the honour of writing to you from Damascus on the 15th of
+August, 1810; soon after my arrival in that city from Palmyra. The
+unsettled state of the government of Damascus obliged me to prolong
+my stay there for upwards of six weeks. I again left it in the
+middle of September to visit Baalbec and the Libanus. My route lay
+through Zahle, a small but prosperous town on the western side of
+the valley Bekaa, the ancient<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxxvii">[xxxvii]</span> Coelosyria, and from thence to
+Baalbec, where I remained three days; then to the top of the
+Libanus, the Cedars and Kannobin, from whence following the highest
+summits of the mountain, I returned to Zahle by the villages called
+Akoura and Afka. Descending the Bekaa I proceeded to the Druse
+territory of Hasbeya; this village is at the foot of Djebel el
+Shikh, or Mount Hermon, and is famous for its wells of bitumen
+judaicum and for the cinnabar found near it; from thence I went to
+Banias, the ancient Cæsarea Philippi, where I saw some ruins, and
+copied some inscriptions. At an hour’s distance from it is the
+source of the river El Dhan (Jordan), in the plain of the Houle, or
+lake Samachonitis. Three hours from it, upon the top of a mountain,
+are the ruins of the ancient city of Boustra, mentioned in the holy
+scriptures. I returned to Damascus over the chain of mountains
+called Djebel Heish, which under the different names of Djebel
+Adjoulan and Djebel Belkaa continues southerly along the eastern
+borders of the Dead Sea. I remained this time only a fortnight at
+Damascus; it was preparatory to an excursion into a region which
+till a few years ago had never been visited by European travellers;
+I mean the country called Haouran, the patrimony of Abraham, of
+which Dr. Seetzen, the German traveller, had seen a part four years
+ago, previous to his memorable tour round the Dead Sea. During a
+fatiguing journey of twenty-six days I explored this country as far
+as a five days journey to the south and south-east of Damascus; I
+went over the whole of the Djebel Haouran, or mountain of the
+Druses, who have in these parts a settlement of about twenty
+villages; I passed Bosz ra (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بُصره</span>), a place likewise mentioned in the books of
+Moses, and not to be confounded with Boustra, (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بُستره</span>); I then entered the desert to the
+south-east of it, and returned afterwards to Damascus through the
+rocky district on the foot of the Djebel Haouran, called El Ledja.
+At every step I found vestiges of ancient cities, saw the remains
+of many temples, public edifices, and Greek churches, met at Shohbe
+with a well-preserved amphitheatre, at other places with numbers of
+still standing columns, and had opportunities of copying many Greek
+inscriptions which may serve to throw some light upon the history
+of this almost forgotten corner. The inscriptions are for the
+greater part of the Lower Empire, but some of the most elegant
+ruins have their inscriptions dated from the reigns of Trajan and
+M. Aurelius. The Haouran with its adjacent districts is the spring
+and summer rendezvous of most of the Arab tribes who inhabit in
+winter-time the great Syrian desert called by them El Hammad
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الحماد</span>). They approach the
+cultivated lands in search of grass, water, and corn, of which last
+they buy up in the Haouran their yearly provision.</p>
+
+<p>In my last letter from Damascus, I gave you some details
+concerning the invasion of the Wahabi in July last, observing at
+the same time that many people at Damascus were still in doubt
+whether it was really a Wahabi corps, which had penetrated so near
+to the principal seat of the Turkish power in Syria. My inquiries
+upon the spots<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxxviii">[xxxviii]</span> where they passed, place it beyond
+any doubt that Ibn Saoud himself, the Wahabi chief, accompanied by
+the Sherif of Mekka, headed the expedition, which consisted of
+about six thousand men, mounted upon camels, together with about
+four hundred horsemen. The camels were all females, whose milk
+afforded drink to men and horses during their march from the Djof
+(an assemblage of Wahabi villages, twelve days journey from Boszra)
+to the Haouran, at a time of the year when no water is met with in
+the desert. Ibn Saoud executed his plans in the true Arab style. He
+remained only two days and a half in the cultivated districts of
+the Haouran, over-ran in that short time a space of at least one
+hundred and twenty miles, burnt and plundered near thirty villages,
+and returned flying, loaded with booty, into the heart of his
+dominions. The terror of his name was so great, that Yussef, the
+Pasha of Damascus, did not dare to attack him while he defiled with
+his loaded camels before the Pasha’s troops; but contented himself
+with aukwardly firing off his field artillery. Many of the Wahabi
+were armed with musquets. It is probable that Ibn Saoud will return
+next year; an expedition conducted as the former was, will always
+be successful, if no other means of defence are employed; the
+Haouran people entertain great apprehensions of his return; a few
+successful attacks will render the eastern borders of Syria
+deserted, and the great Desert, which already daily gains ground
+upon the inhabited districts, will soon swallow up the remaining
+parts of the eastern plain.</p>
+
+<p>After a short excursion to the Djebel el Shikh to the west of
+Damascus, I returned from thence by Homs and Hamah to Aleppo, where
+I arrived on the new year’s day.</p>
+
+<p>During this six months journey I have gained some experience in
+acting as well as in speaking. This indeed was the motive which
+principally induced me to it, and although disappointed on my first
+outset, yet I have no reason to be dissatisfied with the remaining
+part of the journey. I am now occupied in working up my journal, of
+which I shall send you the first part by the next opportunity for
+Malta. It will contain my observations among the Arabs, and the
+classification of about one hundred and fifty of their tribes. The
+journal of my Haouran tour shall follow as soon as possible.</p>
+
+<p>I am at last under the disagreeable necessity of telling you
+that notwithstanding every economy in expense I have spent my last
+farthing. I performed my travels throughout in the garb of a
+pauper, (the Haouran tour for instance only cost me four pounds
+sterling), yet some expense in feeding myself and my horse,
+together with some occasional presents were unavoidable. I should
+less regret the want of remittances if it was not for the
+consideration that my stay in Syria might have afforded me
+opportunities of laying out whatever I might have spared of my
+appointments in manuscripts or objects of antiquity, an opportunity
+which if lost now, may be lost for ever. I have lived for nineteen
+months, since my leaving Malta, upon £170. the remainder of my
+credit upon<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxxix">[xxxix]</span> Mr.
+Lee, and I shall now be obliged to accept Mr. Barker’s kind offers,
+gradually to advance me the sums necessary for my livelihood, until
+I may be enabled to reimburse him by the receipt of my salary from
+the Committee.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Aleppo, May</em> 3, 1811.</p>
+
+<p>I am sincerely obliged to the Committee for having granted me a
+six months prolongation of my stay in Syria.</p>
+
+<p>I have the honour to transmit to you a parcel of papers
+containing: 1. A classification of the principal Arab tribes near
+the confines of Syria. 2. A treatise on Bedouin customs and
+manners. 3. The journal of my tour into the Haouran. 4. The journal
+of my tour over part of the Syrian mountains. 5. Some geographical
+notices concerning the Desert. The geographical part of my journey
+to Palmyra is too insignificant to be laid before you, as I was
+deprived by the Arab robbers of the aid of my watch and compass; my
+observations made among the Bedouins on my way to and from Palmyra,
+you will find dispersed in my treatise on their manners; and any
+researches at Palmyra itself, must be superfluous after the
+excellent and most correct work of Wood and Dawkins. My tour into
+the country of the Haouran might have been interesting on account
+of its novelty, were it not for the account which the indefatigable
+German traveller, Dr. Seetzen, must ere now have published of his
+travels in these parts.<a id="FNanchor_5"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_5">[5]</a> As
+I have had opportunities of copying, in the Haouran villages, many
+Greek inscriptions, it will be necessary to tell the reader of my
+journal that the author’s knowledge of Greek is very superficial.
+The excursion to Baalbec and over Mount Libanus towards the lake
+Houle, was undertaken rather to gratify my own curiosity, than in
+the hope of being able to gather new information in a country so
+often travelled over by Europeans. The investigation of Bedouin
+customs was a favourite object of mine, being convinced that their
+civil institutions are still very imperfectly known in Europe,
+although their social manners have often been described. In my
+treatise on Bedouin customs I thought it necessary, frequently, to
+subjoin the Arabic names, and sometimes, likewise the Bedouin
+phraseology; because both greatly differ from the Syrian language.
+If I had been in possession of some books descriptive of Arab
+manners before Mohammed, such as Pococke, Schultens, &amp;c. I
+might have rendered my inquiries among the Arabs more useful, and
+might have drawn some interesting parallels. Not having met with
+any such works in Syria, I was contented faithfully to note down
+what I myself saw or what I heard related by competent
+witnesses.</p>
+
+<p>Since the late change in the government of Damascus, Syria
+enjoys perfect tranquillity,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xl">[xl]</span> the whole of the country, excepting only the
+territory of Aleppo, being now in the hands of Soleiman Pasha of
+Damascus. It is said, that he is determined to set out next winter
+with the Hadj, but I very much doubt whether he will be able to
+make good this promise to the Porte. The Wahabi chief has been for
+some time past embarrassed by domestic dissensions. Three of his
+sons have become rebels; in December last they plundered a part of
+their father’s treasures at Derayeh, while the latter was
+sacrificing upon Mount Arafat near Mekka, and they have now retired
+to the city of El Hassa, near the Persian gulf, where Ibn Saoud is
+preparing to besiege them. At Aleppo the power is still in the
+hands of the rebellious Janissaries. A few hundred of them set out
+last summer to join the grand Vizier’s army before Adrianople, but
+they returned at the approach of winter; these are the only troops
+which the Sultan has been able to draw from Syria.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Aleppo, Sept. 7</em>, 1811.</p>
+
+<p>The most untoward circumstances have prevented until now my long
+projected excursion into the desert towards the Euphrates. Since my
+last, I have been continually endeavouring to find means to
+re-enter the desert, with some degree of security, but the state of
+the country has always thrown insurmountable obstacles in my way.
+The neighbourhood of Aleppo has been infested since spring, until
+about a month ago, by great numbers of Aenezy Arabs, who had
+declared war against the towns people as well as against the Manali
+Arabs, who are looked upon as the hereditary friends of the Aleppo
+government. The Aenezy have ruined about forty villages, have eaten
+up the whole harvest of the open country, and have rendered the
+roads so insecure that nobody dares travel but in the company of a
+large caravan. I repeatedly tried to take some of the Aenezy for my
+guides, and had chosen one from each of the principal tribes who
+surrounded Aleppo, as the only means left to me to execute my
+design; but the exorbitant demands of these people greatly exceeded
+my powers, and I was moreover informed that the Aenezy had declared
+war upon the Arabs of the Zor, or valley of Euphrates, which was
+exactly the country I wished to visit; I was therefore obliged to
+wait till the Aenezy should have retired from this neighbourhood.
+It is now about a month since they returned into the interior of
+the desert, to meet the autumnal rains; and I am now on the point
+of setting out. A caravan arrived here a few days ago from Sokhne,
+a village in the desert, five days journey from hence on the Bagdad
+route. The people of that village, together with the inhabitants of
+Tedmor or Palmyra, bring to Aleppo once or twice every year alcali,
+which they collect in the desert. The day after tomorrow the
+caravan is to return to Sokhne, and I intend to proceed with it in
+order to visit from thence Deir, the ancient Thapsacus, and several
+ruined places which I have heard<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xli">[xli]</span> much spoken of. I intend to return if
+possible along the shores of the Euphrates, although I am afraid
+that the eternal quarrels of the Arabs of the Zor may put many
+obstacles in my stay. The Shikh of Sokhne, to whom I am strongly
+recommended, and to whom I carry some small presents, is a powerful
+man in those parts, and will certainly take care of my safe return
+to Aleppo; I shall then only remain as long in Aleppo as will be
+necessary to copy my Journal and put it in order, and proceed to
+Damascus, to trace my way from thence into Egypt round the Dead
+Sea. My present tour will take up about seven or eight
+weeks.<a id="FNanchor_6"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_6">[6]</a></p>
+
+<p>My time at Aleppo has been exclusively taken up in endeavours to
+enlarge my knowledge of Arabic. I have completed the perusal of
+several of the best Arabic authors, prosaic writers as well as
+poets; I have read over the Koran twice, and have got by heart
+several of its chapters and many of its sentences; I am likewise
+nearly finishing a thorough course of the precepts of the
+Mohammedan religion, a learned Effendi having taken upon himself
+the task of explaining to me the book of Ibrahim Halebi on the
+religious laws of the Turks. This is the book upon which D’Ohsson
+has grounded his excellent work.</p>
+
+<p>There is no kind of political news in these parts. It is a long
+time since we have heard<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xlii">[xlii]</span> of the Wahabi. Aleppo continues in the
+hands of the Janissaries, but it is said that Gharib Pasha, whom
+the Porte has lately named Pasha of Aleppo, is collecting in
+Anatolia a considerable force to subdue these rebels. Damascus,
+Tripoli, and Acre, are completely under the dominion of Soleiman
+Pasha, but it is known that Mohammed Aly, Pasha of Egypt, spares
+neither intrigues nor money to dispossess Soleiman at least of one
+of his Pashaliks. The pilgrimage from Damascus to Mecca is again
+put off for another year. There is a great scarcity all over Syria;
+wheat has risen to an exorbitant price, and the two last years
+having been remarkably dry, almost every kind of vegetable has
+failed. The same quantity of wheat which at the time of my arrival
+at Aleppo sold for six piastres and a half, is now worth
+twenty-seven. Such scarcity makes travelling much less pleasant,
+and the natives much less inclined to forward the stranger’s
+purposes.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Damascus, May 30</em>, 1812.</p>
+
+<p>The last, which I had the honour to address you, was from
+Aleppo. It was accompanied by a large chest of Arabic manuscripts.
+Incessant rains delayed my departure from Aleppo, until the 14th of
+February. I arrived on the 3d of March at Tripoli, and on the 22d
+at Damascus. Being very desirous of visiting the Haouran once more
+before I should leave Syria, in order to examine those parts which
+I had not been able to see during my first tour through that
+country, I set out with this object, as soon as I was satisfied of
+the tranquil state of the Pashalik. I left this city on the 21st
+April, and returned to it on the 9th May. One of the packets of
+papers herewith inclosed contains my notes on this journey through
+the Haouran, and part of the ancient Decapolis; the second consists
+of my observations during the previous journey from Aleppo to
+Damascus. The third paper contains corrections and annotations to
+the description of Bedouin manners, which I hope has long since
+reached you.</p>
+
+<p>I intend to set out from hence in a few days. It is my wish to
+proceed along the eastern borders of the Dead Sea into Arabia
+Petræa, to visit there if possible, some unknown districts, and to
+make my way from thence straight to Cairo.</p>
+
+<p>Although my arrival in Egypt will thus be still further delayed,
+I trust that the Committee will not be displeased at this delay.
+The countries I have seen, and am now about to visit, are of
+difficult access, and not without interest to literature; and
+without going to great expense, or knowing the language and manners
+of the country, European travellers cannot expect to be able to
+explore them. Thinking myself in some measure qualified for the
+journey, I perform it, as a general would take possession of any
+strong post on his way, even without any express commands to that
+purpose. Such, indeed, have been my only motives for undertaking
+these journies, which are sufficiently laborious and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xliii">[xliii]</span> hazardous, not to be
+mistaken for tours of pleasure. That which I am now entering upon
+is certainly subjected to almost as many difficulties as any
+African travels can be. In performing it, I hope to complete my
+preliminary exercises, and at the same time to obtain some
+information upon the geography of an unknown region. The Committee
+will decide whether I do right or wrong. Their disapproval indeed
+would far outweigh any satisfaction I may derive from the success
+of the journey.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot quit Syria without repeating that the kind services and
+most friendly treatment of Mr. Barker, the British Consul at
+Aleppo, have put me under everlasting obligations to him. He is a
+most worthy man and of very superior talents. Being at present the
+only Englishman established in these countries, the important care
+of the English interests in Syria is exclusively confided to him;
+and the reputation which he has acquired in every part of the
+country by his prudent and generous conduct proves him fully equal
+to the charge.</p>
+
+<p>Syria still enjoys perfect tranquillity, although the governors
+of the country are continually changing. A new Pasha has been named
+for Aleppo, who is at present intriguing there to get the better of
+the Janissaries. The day before my arrival at this place, the news
+had reached the town of the dismissal of Soleiman Pasha from the
+Pashalik of Damascus; but he has been permitted to keep his seat at
+Acre. There are some reports, of its being the intention of
+Mohammed Aly Pasha to invade Syria. His ill success against the
+Wahabi may have hitherto prevented him, but if he lives, and is
+successful in Arabia, he may still execute his designs, for he is a
+man of vast ambition, and great energy of character.</p>
+
+<p>There is no news from the desert; the Wahabi, being fully
+occupied in opposing the forces of Mohammed Aly, have been obliged
+to give up for the present their plundering expeditions against
+Syria. The hopes of re-establishing the pilgrim caravan to Mekka is
+entertained only by those fanatic Turks, who, from the
+discontinuance of it, prognosticate the fall of the empire. The
+important English coffee trade, opened within the last twelve
+months, between Malta and the Levant, considerably lessens the
+desire of the Hadj in the minds of all those who were in the habit
+of performing the pilgrimage merely in order to buy up Mocha coffee
+at Mekka, which they sold with great profits at Damascus, Aleppo,
+and Constantinople. The greater half of the pilgrims were merchants
+of coffee and India goods. At present American coffee has entirely
+supplanted that of Yemen all over Syria and the Syrian desert.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th of June.</em> I have tarried so long at Damascus
+principally in order to get a letter of recommendation for Kerek,
+from a Damascene, who was out of town. Kerek is a considerable
+village to the east of the Dead Sea, where I shall probably stay a
+few days, for it is from thence that I must look for a conveyance
+to Suez. I hope to be at Cairo about the 20th of July.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xliv">[xliv]</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Cairo, Sept. 12th,</em> 1812.</p>
+
+<p>I hasten to announce to you my arrival at Cairo. The last letter
+I had the honour of addressing to you was from Damascus, of the
+30th of May; I did not leave that city until the 18th of June, and
+arrived here on the 4th of September, in perfect health, but
+considerably worn by the fatigues of the road and the intense heat
+of the season. The following is a short sketch of my journey, the
+further details of which I shall transmit to you in a short
+time.</p>
+
+<p>My first station from Damascus was Saffad, (Japhet) a few hours
+distant from Djessr Beni Yakoub, a bridge over the Jordan to the
+south of the lake Samachonitis. From thence I descended to the
+shore of the Lake of Tabarya (Tiberias), visited Tabarya, and its
+neighbouring districts, ascended Mount Tabor, and tarried a few
+days at Nazareth. I met here a couple of petty merchants from
+Szalt, a castle in the mountains of Balka, which I had not been
+able to see during my late tour, and which lies on the road I had
+pointed out to myself for passing into the Egyptian deserts. I
+joined their caravan; after eight hours march, we descended into
+the valley of the Jordan, called El Ghor, near Bysan (Scythopolis);
+crossed the river, and continued along its verdant banks for about
+ten hours, until we reached the river Zerka (Jabbok), near the
+place where it empties itself into the Jordan. Turning then to our
+left, we ascended the eastern chain, formerly part of the district
+of Balka, and arrived at Szalt, two long days journey from
+Nazareth. The inhabitants of Szalt are entirely independent of the
+Turkish government; they cultivate the ground for a considerable
+distance round their habitations, and part of them live the whole
+year round in tents, to watch their harvest and to pasture their
+cattle. Many ruined places and mountains in the district of Balka
+preserve the names of the Old Testament, and elucidate the
+topography of the provinces that fell to the share of the tribes of
+Gad and Reuben. Szalt is at present the only inhabited place in the
+Balka, but numerous Arab tribes pasture there their camels and
+sheep. I visited from thence the ruins of Aman or Philadelphia,
+five hours and a half distant from Szalt. They are situated in a
+valley on both sides of a rivulet, which empties itself into the
+Zerka. A large amphitheatre is the most remarkable of these ruins,
+which are much decayed, and in every respect inferior to those of
+Djerash. At four or five hours south-east of Aman, are the ruins of
+Om Erresas and El Kotif, which I could not see, but which,
+according to report, are more considerable than those of
+Philadelphia. The want of communication between Szalt and the
+southern countries delayed my departure for upwards of a week; I
+found at last a guide, and we reached Kerek in two days and a half,
+after having passed the deep beds of the torrents El Wale and El
+Modjeb, which I suppose to be the Nahaliel and Arnon. The Modjeb
+divides the district of Balka<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xlv">[xlv]</span> from that of Kerek, as it formerly divided
+the Moabites from the Amorites. The ruins of Eleale, Hesebon, Meon,
+Medaba, Dibon, Arver,<a id="FNanchor_7"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_7">[7]</a> all
+situated on the north side of the Arnon, still subsist to
+illustrate the history of the Beni Israel. To the south of the wild
+torrent Modjeb I found the considerable ruins of Rabbat Moab, and,
+three hours distant from them, the town of Kerek, situated at about
+twelve hours distance to the east of the southern extremity of the
+Dead Sea. Kerek is an important position, and its chief is a
+leading character in the affairs of the deserts of southern Syria;
+he commands about 1200 match-locks, which are the terror of the
+neighbouring Arab tribes. About 200 families of Greek Christians,
+of whom one third have entirely embraced the nomade life, live here
+distinguished only from their Arab brethren by the sign of the
+cross. The treachery of the Shikh of Kerek, to whom I had been
+particularly recommended by a grandee of Damascus, obliged me to
+stay at Kerek above twenty days. After having annoyed me in
+different ways, he permitted me to accompany him southward, as he
+had himself business in the mountains of Djebal, a district which
+is divided from that of Kerek by the deep bed of the torrent El
+Ansa or El Kahary, eight hours distant from Kerek. We remained for
+ten days in the villages to the north and south of El Ansa, which
+are inhabited by Arabs, who have become cultivators, and who sell
+the produce of their fields to the Bedouins. The Shikh having
+finished his business, left me at Beszeyra, a village about sixteen
+hours south of Kerek, to shift for myself, after having maliciously
+recommended me to the care of a Bedouin, with whose character he
+must have been acquainted, and who nearly stripped me of the
+remainder of my money. I encountered here many difficulties, was
+obliged to walk from one encampment to another, until I found at
+last a Bedouin, who engaged to carry me to Egypt. In his company I
+continued southward, in the mountains of Shera, which are divided
+to the north from Djebal by the broad valley called Ghoseyr, at
+about five hours distance from Beszeyra. The chief place in Djebal
+is Tafyle, and in Shera the castle of Shobak. This chain of
+mountains is a continuation of the eastern Syrian chain, which
+begins with the Anti-Libanus, joins the Djebel el Shikh, forms the
+valley of Ghor, and borders the Dead Sea. The valley of Ghor is
+continued to the south of the Dead Sea; at about sixteen hours
+distance from the extremity of the Dead Sea, its name is changed
+into that of Araba, and it runs in almost a straight line,
+declining somewhat to the west, as far as Akaba, at the extremity
+of the eastern branch of the Red Sea. The existence of this valley
+appears to have been unknown to ancient as well as modern
+geographers, although it is a very remarkable feature in the
+geography of Syria, and Arabia Petræa, and is still more
+interesting for its productions. In this valley the manna is still
+found; it drops from the sprigs of several trees, but principally
+from the Gharrab; it is collected by the Arabs, who make cakes of
+it, and who eat it with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xlvi">[xlvi]</span> butter; they call it Assai Beyrouk, or
+the honey of Beyrouk. Indigo, gum arabic, the silk tree called
+Asheyr, whose fruit encloses a white silky substance, of which the
+Arabs twist their matches, grow in this valley. It is inhabited
+near the Dead Sea in summer-time by a few Bedouin peasants only,
+but during the winter months it becomes the meeting place of
+upwards of a dozen powerful Arab tribes. It is probable that the
+trade between Jerusalem and the Red Sea was carried on through this
+valley. The caravan, loaded at Eziongeber with the treasures of
+Ophir, might, after a march of six or seven days, deposit its loads
+in the warehouses of Solomon. This valley deserves to be thoroughly
+known; its examination will lead to many interesting discoveries
+and would be one of the most important objects of a Palestine
+traveller. At the distance of a two long days journey north-east
+from Akaba, is a rivulet and valley in the Djebel Shera, on the
+east side of the Araba, called Wady Mousa. This place is very
+interesting for its antiquities and the remains of an ancient city,
+which I conjecture to be Petra, the capital of Arabia Petræa, a
+place which, as far as I know, no European traveller has ever
+visited. In the red sand stone of which the valley is composed, are
+upwards of two hundred and fifty sepulchres entirely cut out of the
+rock, the greater part of them with Grecian ornaments. There is a
+mausoleum in the shape of a temple, of colossal dimensions,
+likewise cut out of the rock, with all its apartments, its
+vestibule, peristyle, &amp;c. It is a most beautiful specimen of
+Grecian architecture, and in perfect preservation. There are other
+mausolea with obelisks, apparently in the Egyptian style, a whole
+amphitheatre cut out of the rock with the remains of a palace and
+of several temples. Upon the summit of the mountain which closes
+the narrow valley on its western side, is the tomb of Haroun
+(Aaron, brother of Moses). It is held in great veneration by the
+Arabs. (If I recollect right, there is a passage in Eusebius, in
+which he says that the tomb of Aaron was situated near Petra.) The
+information of Pliny and Strabo upon the site of Petra, agree with
+the position of Wady Mousa. I regretted most sensibly that I was
+not in circumstances that admitted of my observing these
+antiquities in all their details, but it was necessary for my
+safety not to inspire the Arabs with suspicions that might probably
+have impeded the progress of my journey, for I was an unprotected
+stranger, known to be a townsman, and thus an object of constant
+curiosity to the Bedouins, who watched all my steps in order to
+know why I had preferred that road to Egypt, to the shorter one
+along the Mediterranean coast. It was the intention of my guide to
+conduct me to Akaba, where we might hope to meet with some caravan
+for Egypt. On our way to Akaba we were however informed that a few
+Arabs were preparing to cross the desert direct to Cairo, and I
+preferred that route, because I had reason to apprehend some
+disagreeable adventures at Akaba, where the Pasha of Egypt keeps a
+garrison to watch the Wahabi. His officers I knew to be extremely
+jealous of Arabian as well as Syrian strangers, and I
+had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xlvii">[xlvii]</span> nothing
+with me by which I might have proved the nature of my business in
+these remote districts, nor even my Frank origin. We therefore
+joined the caravan of Arabs Allowein, who were carrying a few
+camels to the Cairo market. We crossed the valley of Araba,
+ascended on the other side of it the barren mountains of Beyane,
+and entered the desert called El Ty, which is the most barren and
+horrid tract of country I have ever seen; black flints cover the
+chalky or sandy ground, which in most places is without any
+vegetation. The tree which produces the gum arabic grows in some
+spots: and the tamarisk is met with here and there, but the
+scarcity of water forbids much extent of vegetation, and the hungry
+camels are obliged to go in the evening for whole hours out of the
+road in order to find some withered shrubs upon which to feed.
+During ten days forced marches, we passed only four springs or
+wells, of which one only, at about eight hours east of Suez, was of
+sweet water. The others were brackish and sulphureous. We passed at
+a short distance to the north of Suez, and arrived at Cairo by the
+pilgrim road.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The first employment of Mr. Burckhardt upon his arrival at
+Cairo, was to draw up a detailed account of his journey from
+Damascus, which he soon afterwards transmitted to the
+Association.</p>
+
+<p>There happened at the moment of his arrival, to be a small
+caravan on the point of returning from Cairo, into some of the
+northern countries of the Great Desert. This was precisely the
+route in which it was intended that Mr. Burckhardt should commence
+his travels, towards the countries of the Niger: the Committee
+nevertheless perfectly approved of the determination of their
+traveller, not to risk his own hopes and those of the Association
+upon such a precarious prospect of success, as this caravan would
+have afforded. Unless an opportunity offered in every respect
+favourable, it was not desired that he should enter upon his
+undertaking, until a residence of several months in Egypt had made
+him familiar with a dialect and with a system of manners, and of
+policy differing considerably from those to which he had been
+accustomed in Syria. It was far from the wish of the Committee,
+that he should leap over such an important step in that preparatory
+course of experience which had been thought<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xlviii">[xlviii]</span> advisable for him; and nothing was
+more to be avoided than the hazarding of his personal safety,
+together with that of the success of his mission, by the
+irretrievable imprudence of an ill prepared and hasty departure
+from Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>His own sentiments upon this subject are conveyed to the
+Secretary of the Association in a letter from Cairo, which
+announces also his intention of undertaking a journey into Nubia.
+Of this letter the following is an extract.</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Cairo, Nov. 13th,</em> 1812.</p>
+
+<p>There will be no opportunity of proceding into Africa by the
+road to Fezzan, before next year. A small caravan of
+Twatees<a id="FNanchor_8"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_8">[8]</a> from Augila was at Cairo at
+the moment of my arrival, and left it three weeks afterwards; but
+it would not have been advisable for me to have made any attempt to
+accompany it. I should hardly have had time to prepare for setting
+out with them; I knew no body to whom to address myself for
+introduction to the caravan; I had no funds to equip myself; and I
+was as yet too little acquainted with the Egyptian and African
+world to suppose that I should be able to take my measures in such
+a way as to remain undiscovered. I am moreover extremely averse to
+any hasty steps; they are the ruin of the traveller’s health as
+well as of his plans; and a hasty proceeding it would have been to
+set out upon such a journey, without having recovered from the
+fatigues of the former one, and without being in the least
+acquainted with the people, to whom I was to have intrusted my
+fortunes.</p>
+
+<p>The delay thus occasioned in my Fezzan expedition, I shall
+endeavour to make profitable to African geography, in another
+quarter. I mean to set out next month, by land, for Upper Egypt, as
+soon as the state of the Nile renders the voyage practicable. I
+shall push on beyond the first cataract, and follow the course of
+the river by the second and third cataract, towards Dóngola. That
+country, farther up than Derr, has never been visited by any
+travellers; yet I am informed by many of the natives, that the
+borders of the river are full of ancient temples and other
+antiquities; resembling those of Luxor, and the Isle of Philæ. The
+present tranquil state of Egypt renders such a voyage of much less
+danger than it might have been during the whole of the last
+century; for the Pasha is completely master of the country, and is
+in friendly intercourse with the princes of Nubia. Were it not for
+the Mamlouks who have settled at Dóngola, and taken possession of
+the country, I might hope to reach that point. But I shall not
+expose myself to their treachery, and shall be contented with
+approaching to within a journey of five or six<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xlix">[xlix]</span> days from Dóngola, and with making
+perhaps some lateral excursions into the Nubian desert. This
+journey will, I hope, make me acquainted with the character of the
+Negroe nations, and of those who traffic for slaves, and will thus
+facilitate my travels in the interior of the continent. It will
+take me about five months to perform this tour. The Fezzan caravan
+is not expected to arrive till June next, I shall therefore be in
+full time to join it after my return to Cairo.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The first part of the intended journey, which Mr. Burckhardt
+here announces, was performed to the exact amount of his
+expectations, but his “lateral excursion into the Nubian desert”
+was much more extensive than his most sanguine hopes had
+anticipated, for he succeeded in penetrating to the banks of the
+Astaboras; and from thence crossed the desert to Souakin on the
+shore of the Red Sea. This and the former journey along the Nile
+towards Dóngola, were the only travels in the unexplored regions of
+the interior of Africa, which he was destined to accomplish, but
+they led to a tour in Arabia, which was productive of information
+not less interesting, and scarcely less original than that which he
+collected in his Nubian journeys.</p>
+
+<p>No less than two years and an half were spent in these travels,
+and in a long residence in Upper Egypt, during the interval which
+occurred between his two Nubian journeys; but no opportunity of
+forwarding the main object, of penetrating into the interior of
+Africa in the intended direction, was lost by the delay, as no
+caravan departed from Egypt to the westward during the whole period
+of his absence from Cairo.</p>
+
+<p>As Mr. Burckhardt’s description of his two journeys to Nubia
+forms the subject of the present volume, it will be unnecessary to
+detain the reader with the outline or abridgement of them, which
+his letters contained: it will be sufficient to insert a few
+extracts from those letters, for the sake of connecting the several
+occurrences of his travels in their order of time.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_l">[l]</span>The first letter
+which the Association received from their traveller; after his
+departure from Cairo, was dated from Esne, in Upper Egypt, soon
+after his return from his first journey into Nubia.</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="center"><em>Extract of a letter from Esne, May 2nd,</em>
+1813.</p>
+
+<p>I am returned to this place from a journey up the Nile, which
+has carried me into the vicinity of Dóngola. In my last letter from
+Cairo, I informed you of my projects relative to this excursion,
+and I am now happy to say, that I have succeeded almost to the full
+extent of my wishes. I left Cairo on the 11th of January,
+accompanied by a trusty servant, a native of Siout. We were both
+mounted upon asses which, besides our persons, carried the little
+baggage I thought necessary to take with me. I was furnished with
+the strongest letters of recommendation to all the governors of
+Upper Egypt, besides which, Mohammed Aly Pasha had given me a
+private letter of introduction to his son Ibrahim Beg, who commands
+in Upper Egypt. I was, however, so lucky as never to have occasion
+to make use of these letters; nothing unpleasant occurred to me
+during my route through Egypt, and when such is the case it is
+always better to keep clear of Turkish governors. The canals of
+Egypt were dried up; I therefore prosecuted my journey without any
+difficulty along the Nile’s western bank, sometimes crossing over
+to the opposite side; and I arrived after twelve days at Siout,
+having seen on my way the southern pyramids, and the antiquities of
+Beni Hassan, Shikh Abade and Ashmouneyn. It had been my intention
+to make from Siout an excursion into the Great Oasis, which is not
+thoroughly known yet. Several circumstances impeded my project; I
+should however have persisted had I not been informed that the
+Siwah people are continually visiting the Oasis, and I should not
+like to be afterwards recognised by them on my way to Fezzan. I
+remained ten days at Siout, and continued then my journey
+southwards; visiting on my way Gaou, Akhmym, Farshiout, Dendera,
+Kenne, and Goft; and after four days stay at the different
+villages, situated within the precincts of Thebes, I arrived at
+Esne sixteen days after having left Siout. Esne is the last place
+of note in Upper Egypt, it was therefore here that I was to make
+the necessary preparations for my journey into Nubia. (...) I
+arrived at Assouan on the 22nd of February. The Aga of Assouan
+procured me a guide up to Derr, the chief place in Nubia. (...) It
+took me four days and an half to reach Derr, which is about one
+hundred and forty miles distant from Assouan. About fifty miles
+below that place I fell in with two English gentlemen, Messrs. Legh
+and Smelt, who had been up to Ibrim and were returning to Assouan,
+on board a small ship they had hired there. I had already had the
+pleasure of seeing them at Cairo and at Siout. (...) After three
+days journey from Ibrim (which is only five hours distant from
+Derr),<span class="pagenum" id="Page_li">[li]</span> I reached the
+second cataract at Wady Halfa. From thence in three days more
+Sukkot, in travelling along the mountainous district called Batn el
+Hadjar. (...) I passed the large island called Say, and from
+thence, at the end of two days more, arrived at Tinareh, a small
+castle, the chief place in the country of Mahass, which I calculate
+to be at four hundred and thirty, or four hundred and fifty miles
+above Assouan. (The above mentioned distances are dromedary’s days
+of thirty miles each.) From Tinareh to the northern limits of
+Dóngola are two and a half days journey. (...) I returned by the
+same way to Sukkot, swam here my camels across the river, in order
+to see the western bank, which I continued to follow until I again
+crossed to the eastern bank, a few miles above Philæ.</p>
+
+<p>I returned to Assouan on the 31st of March, seventeen days after
+my departure from Tinareh, and thirty-five days after my setting
+out from Assouan; during which time I had only allowed myself a
+single half day’s rest at Derr. So far my personal story through
+Nubia. The enclosed journal contains my observations during the
+journey; I must solicit your indulgence for the rude manner in
+which it is written. It is certainly not as I wish it to be, nor as
+it should have been, had I been at my leisure and ease. It has been
+written in a miserable court-yard, on the side of my camel, under
+the influence of the hot Kamsin winds, which now reign in Upper
+Egypt. I have suffered also from a strong inflammation in my left
+eye, which has become still worse by writing, and which makes
+writing painful to me.</p>
+
+<p>I have been now for these last three weeks at Esne, waiting for
+the departure of a Sennaar caravan, which is to set out in a few
+days from Daraou, about sixty miles south of this place, whither I
+shall without delay proceed. For I have conceived the project of
+making a journey on that side of Africa, before I begin my western
+tour. I wish to visit the shores of the Astapus or Astaboras, on my
+way from Gous towards Massuah; which harbour I should thus reach by
+a northern road, different from that of Bruce. The road from Egypt
+to Gous is perfectly safe. I am well recommended to the people in
+power at Gous and Damer; from whence there is a practicable road
+eastward into Abyssinia. It is not my intention to make any stay in
+Abyssinia whatever; not holding myself at all qualified for travels
+in those parts; but up to the frontiers of Abyssinia Arabic is
+spoken, and wherever that is the case I hope to be able to
+penetrate with some advantage to science. From Massuah I shall
+proceed to Djidda, or to Mokka, and return without delay, by land,
+along the eastern shore of the Red Sea, to Cairo. I hope to be in
+Cairo again in ten months. If I supposed that this journey
+presented great risks I should not undertake it; for I wish to
+expose myself to hazards only on the western side of Africa, but
+there is only a distance of twenty days (from Gous to Massuah),
+which presents any difficulties; of these twenty days,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lii">[lii]</span> fourteen (from Gous to Taka)
+are by caravan routes; there remain six days from Taka to Massuah,
+where it will be necessary to join the Bedouins, in order to have
+any security on the road. Travelling in Arabia, few parts excepted,
+is as safe as travelling in Egypt; and it will not be less so to
+me, as I shall have recommendations to all the officers of Mohammed
+Aly who garrison the cities of the Hedjaz, since the complete
+defeat of the Wahabis, who have retired to their native seats in
+the Nedjed. I repeat to you that I look with confidence upon the
+success of my projected journey. As to health, I am in the perfect
+enjoyment of it, my eye excepted, which I hope will be cured by the
+pure air of the desert. According to the directions I have given I
+hope to find money supplies either at Mokka or at Djidda. I proceed
+from hence, as a Derwish, having nothing with me but a camel, some
+provisions, and about four guineas in sequins, hidden in my woollen
+cloak. This will carry me, I hope, as far as Massuah, where, in
+case of need, a free passage is easily obtained from the charity of
+the Turkish merchants.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot help feeling some apprehensions lest this project
+should not meet with the entire approbation of the Committee: as it
+will defer again for a twelvemonth my grand journey. As for myself,
+as long as I have any vigour of mind and body left, I shall look
+upon time as a very secondary consideration, and subservient only
+to objects of science; and I am indifferent to what extent my
+absence from Europe is prolonged, provided my final object of
+visiting as much of the unknown countries of Soudan as I possibly
+can, is obtained. If I am not to be tired with respect to time it
+is hardly to be supposed that my employers should; but other
+considerations may certainly make them desire a more prompt
+conclusion of my journey. And for this reason I am extremely
+anxious to know what opinion they entertain of my conduct.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="center"><em>Postscript, dated from Siout in Upper Egypt,
+12th of July,</em> 1813.</p>
+
+<p>I am sorry to say that I have not been able to set out with the
+Sennaar caravan as soon as I expected. A small caravan, coming from
+the south, arrived at Daraou at the end of May. The merchants had
+been stripped on the road by the chief of Mograt, through whose
+territory they are obliged to pass. That chief had espoused the
+cause of the Mamelouks, and declared war against the Egyptian
+slave-traders. The party of the latter, with whom I intended to set
+out from Daraou, where they had already assembled, were now afraid
+to proceed on their journey in small numbers, and they put off
+their departure, until they might be joined by several other
+parties, in order to form a large caravan, capable of fighting its
+way through, if the robber of Mograt should attack them. I profited
+by the interval to return to Siout, from whence I sent a messenger
+to Cairo, for my purse was almost exhausted.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_liii">[liii]</span>I shall write
+to you once more before I set out from hence, which I hope will be
+in three weeks. If the departure and arrival of the caravans, were
+as well regulated in Africa, as they are in Syria, this vast
+continent would soon be explored. But the difficulties and delays
+are great, and can only be overcome by patience.</p>
+
+<p>The plague is said to have ceased at Cairo, but it still
+continues in some parts of Lower Egypt, after having almost
+depopulated Alexandria and Damietta. It had reached a village only
+two hours distant from here, but made no farther progress. But
+great fears are entertained that it will increase and spread next
+winter, over the whole country, which is generally the case
+whenever it has not completely subsided towards the end of
+June.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="center"><em>Extract of a letter from Esne, October
+14th,</em> 1813.</p>
+
+<p>The great Djelabe traders from Sennaar who have just arrived
+here, have at length put an end to the impediment caused by the
+chief of Mograt, by killing him and his principal men in his own
+house at Mograt. But another difficulty has occurred. There is a
+great scarcity of provisions in the Nile countries, from Gous up to
+Sennaar, occasioned by the locusts, who devoured entirely the last
+winter crops. The envoys sent last year by Mohammed Aly, to the
+King of Sennaar, who have returned with the late caravans, describe
+the state of the inhabitants as most deplorable; they kill each
+other for a measure of Dhourra, and neither law nor government is
+any more attended to. Under such circumstances the caravans
+assembled at Daraou, in the neighbourhood of Assouan, have not
+thought proper to leave Egypt, where every kind of provision is at
+the lowest price. They have wisely resolved to defer their
+departure until the new Dhourra grain should have been reaped in
+the southern countries, when as the inundation of the Nile has been
+very copious this year, plenty will have returned to those
+districts. I shall thus start in their company in about three weeks
+from this time, and have little doubt, provided I remain in good
+health, that I shall reach Massuah in safety, by taking my road
+straight across the mountains from Damer towards Massuah.</p>
+
+<p>From Massuah I mean to cross over to the Arabian coast, and to
+return to Cairo by the Hedjaz; I hope the Committee of the African
+Association will not object to this extension of my travels. I keep
+my ultimate object well in view, and after my return to Cairo, I
+shall be ready to put it in execution. But I think that the
+discovery of the interior parts of Nubia is well worth a year’s
+labour and the expense attending it. My journey through Arabia may
+probably qualify me better than any thing else, to future perilous
+travels in the Mohammedan world, nor will it, I hope, be devoid of
+some advantages to science.</p>
+
+<p>I have collected some information on the interior parts of
+Africa, from the Soudan pilgrims,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_liv">[liv]</span> of whom I have seen great numbers in Upper
+Egypt. But I wish to improve upon it, before I transmit it to the
+Association. These pilgrims go here by the name of Tekaýrne (sing.
+Tekroury, from the verb <span class="arabic" lang="ar">تكرر</span>:
+meaning to renew, improve and purify, that is to say, their faith
+and learning by the pilgrimage. It is probably from this name of
+Tekroury, that the Arabian geographers have placed a country called
+Tekrour, between Timbuctou and Kashna; none of these travellers
+knew of any such country.) Such of them as are most distinguished
+for skill in writing and reading, style themselves “Fokara,” (from
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فقير</span>: a poor man, i. e.
+before the Lord) which name is given in Upper Egypt to the whole
+class of learned men. Most of the Tekaýrne come from Darfour; some
+from Bornou and the country of Wady el Ghazal, between Bornou and
+Darfour; others from Bagherme and Borgho. I have not met with a
+single man from Wangara, nor could I ever find any whose native
+country was west of Wangara. The road they take is from Darfour to
+Kordofan and Sennaar, from whence they follow the course of the
+Nile through Dóngola and Nubia, to Egypt. Those only who can afford
+to buy camels and provisions, cross the desert from the Nile to
+Souakin, the others live upon alms, and upon the selling of
+amulets. I understand that there is a still more frequented pilgrim
+road from Sennaar through Abyssinia to Massuah.</p>
+
+<p>Upper Egypt enjoys at present perfect tranquillity, under the
+severe but equitable government of Ibrahim Pasha, son of Mohammed
+Aly. The taxes are moderate and the whole country is equally
+assessed; no avanies are practised, and the soldiery is kept in
+strict order. By secularizing a part of the revenues of the church,
+such as the superfluous income of mosques, schools, public
+cisterns, Olemas, village Shikhs, &amp;c. the Pasha has of late
+considerably enriched his treasury. The clerical interest is of
+course now in opposition, although the Pasha has become the
+restorer of the faith, by delivering the holy cities. The Mamelouks
+have no chance of succeeding in any attempt upon Egypt, as long as
+Mohammed Aly keeps in power; but if he should happen to fall, I
+conceive that although their number is now reduced to three hundred
+fighting men only, they would forthwith regain their lost seat in
+Egypt, where their friends are still very numerous, especially
+among the most daring adventurers, who greatly dislike the just and
+vigorous measures of the actual government.</p>
+
+<p class="space-above15">P. S. I am in good health, but have gone
+during the course of the summer and autumn, through two very
+painful ophthalmic attacks, from the latter of which I have just
+recovered.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The cause of delay mentioned in the preceding letter continued
+to operate during the next four months, and it was not until
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lv">[lv]</span> 2nd of March,
+1814, that the caravan finally quitted upper Egypt. During the
+tedious intervals, which Mr. Burckhardt was under the necessity of
+passing at Esne, he continued to wear his usual disguise of a poor
+Mohammedan trader; taking care to be as little known or noticed as
+possible. Among the jealous, treacherous, and cruel Mussulman
+nations which he traversed, after leaving Daraou, it was with
+difficulty that he seized opportunities of continuing the journal
+of his remarks and proceedings. Still less was it in his power to
+transmit any intelligence to the Association, until after having
+arrived in safety at Souakin, a port of considerable traffic on the
+African coast of the Red Sea, he crossed over from thence to
+Djidda, in Arabia.</p>
+
+<p>The following extract of a letter from Djidda will put the
+reader in possession of the general direction of the route,
+together with the most important heads of information acquired by
+Mr. Burckhardt in his second Nubian journey. The detailed account
+of it, which was not transmitted to the Association until the year
+1816, forms the subject of the greater part of the present
+volume.</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="center"><em>Extract of a Letter from Mr. Burckhardt to
+Sir Joseph Banks, dated Djidda, 7th August,</em> 1814.</p>
+
+<p>I left Upper Egypt on the 2nd of March, and crossed the Nubian
+desert during a journey of twenty three days, slow travelling;
+nearly in the same route, by which Bruce returned from Abyssinia,
+fifty years ago. Our caravan rejoined the Nile at Berber, in the
+vicinity of Bruce’s Gooz, and after a fortnight’s stay among the
+Arabs Meyrifab, and as much at Damer (two days south of Berber), we
+reached Shendy, which is at present the principal market for the
+slave-traders, from Egypt, Darfour, Kordofan, and Sennaar.</p>
+
+<p>Its King is tributary to the King of Sennaar, as are likewise
+all the petty rulers down the river as far as Dóngola; it would
+have been easy for me to proceed to Sennaar, nine days journey
+distant from Shendy, and from thence into Abyssinia, following
+Bruce’s track. But I wished to visit unknown districts, and I was
+convinced, from what I had already experienced, that a tour through
+those countries would be attended with expenses, which I was little
+able to bear. When I left Egypt, I had only sixty dollars, and an
+ass<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lvi">[lvi]</span> to carry me;
+not having thought proper to lose the opportunity of the caravan,
+for the sake of the supply of money which I expected from Cairo.
+Twenty-five dollars were spent in the way to Shendy. I was thus
+much straitened, and I had scarcely enough left to buy a slave, a
+camel, and the necessary provisions for my journey to the Red Sea.
+From Shendy I proceeded towards the river Atbara (Astaboras), whose
+fertile banks are cultivated by the Arabs Bisharein. I followed
+that river in a S. S. E. direction for about one hundred and twenty
+miles as far as Goz-Radjeb, a place under the dominion of Sennaar,
+five days journey distant from it. The course of the Astaboras, as
+well as that of the Astapus (now called Mogren), is very
+erroneously laid down upon the maps. From Goz I reached the country
+of Taka, a low ground of four or five days journey in length, and
+two days in breadth, which is regularly inundated by torrents,
+rushing down from the Abyssinian mountains; and which produces a
+rich crop of Dhourra. I had hoped to cross the mountains from hence
+to Massuah, on the Abyssinian sea coast; but I found,
+notwithstanding the information given to me at Shendy, that there
+is no commercial intercourse between the two places. The infamous
+treachery of the Arabs Hadendoa, Melykenab, and Hallenga, who
+inhabit Taka and the southern mountains, renders it impossible to
+proceed alone, with any baggage of the smallest value, and the
+total want of hospitality among all the Arabs of these parts
+forbids any attempt to travel as a Derwish or beggar. After a ten
+days stay amongst the Arabs Hadendoa, I left Taka for Souakin,
+which place draws its whole supply of corn from Taka. The rains
+began to set in; a high chain of mountains, midway between Taka and
+Souakin, divides the climate; to the south of this chain, we had
+every night heavy showers, to the north, the season of the hot
+winds had begun, and the rains were not expected until September.
+Thirteen days from Taka we reached Souakin. The Turkish governor of
+that place was going to seize me, supposing me to belong to the
+Mamelouks of Dóngola; fortunately I had an old Firman of the Pasha
+of Egypt with me, the producing of which saved me from prison, and
+procured me a free passage on board a country boat to Djidda, where
+I arrived in good health on the 20th of July.</p>
+
+<p>It is now my intention to visit the principal places of the
+Hedjaz, to perform the Hadj, or pilgrimage to Mekka, and then to
+return to Cairo by land. I shall send to England the journal of my
+late tour, together with that of the Hedjaz, after my return to
+Cairo, not being at present at liberty to write much.</p>
+
+<p>The Pasha of Egypt is in possession of all the principal towns
+of the Hedjaz, but whenever he has endeavoured to push on into the
+interior, he has constantly been defeated by the Wahabi Arabs,
+amongst whom a female chief, called Ghalye, whose residence is in
+Taraba, eight days journey S. E. of Mekka, has particularly
+distinguished herself. The chances however seem at present to be
+greatly in favour of the Pasha.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lvii">[lvii]</span> Saoud, the Wahabi chief, died three
+months ago of illness; his son Abdallah, and his brother of the
+same name, have been fighting for the succession, and have both
+been killed in the civil war. The treasure of Saoud is now in
+possession of the younger sons of Saoud, who are besieged at
+Derayeh, the capital of Nedjed, by other branches of their family,
+and several great Arab Shikhs. Many powerful Wahabi chiefs have
+come over to the Pasha, who has thus been led to undertake an
+expedition against Derayeh, and the Nedjed itself. At the moment I
+am writing, Tousoun Pasha, the son of Mohammed Aly, is proceeding
+from hence to Medina, in order to command the expedition which will
+take place as soon as the rains have set in, and there is some
+reason to believe that he will succeed in his project, although it
+is hardly to be expected that the Turkish troops will be able to
+keep possession, for any length of time, of those inland
+countries.</p>
+
+<p>I am under great difficulties for a supply of money, the letter
+of credit which I brought from Cairo not having been honoured,
+under the pretext that it was dated eighteen months ago; it must be
+confessed also that my torn clothes did not speak much in my
+favour. Disappointed in all my endeavours to sell a bill upon
+Cairo, I have addressed myself to the Pasha, Mohammed Aly himself,
+who is now at Tayf, five days journey from hence. He knows me well,
+and when at Cairo had often expressed himself in my favour. If he
+does not comply with my wishes I shall be obliged to return
+forthwith to Egypt, without performing the Hadj: which will not
+take place for three months, for the Hedjaz is not the country
+where a man can hope to travel gratis. Every thing is enormously
+dear at all times, and in the time of the pilgrimage the prices are
+still higher.</p>
+
+<p class="space-above15">P. S. August 9th. I have been so fortunate
+as to procure a supply of money, by the means of Yahya Effendi, the
+physician of Tousoun Pasha, a man educated in Europe, and who had
+known me at Cairo. He received me with singular kindness, and as he
+was departing with the Pasha for Medina, he was anxious to see me
+furnished with money before he set out. The answer from Mohammed
+Aly has not yet arrived.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Nearly a year elapsed before the Association received any
+further advices from their traveller, his next letter being dated
+from Cairo, upon his arrival in Egypt from Arabia. As the
+unfortunate state of his health prevented him, upon this occasion,
+from entering into any particulars of his Arabian journey, it is
+right to inform the reader, that in the following year he
+transmitted to the Association the most accurate and complete
+account of the Hedjaz, including the cities of Mekka, and Medina,
+which has ever<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lviii">[lviii]</span>
+been received in Europe. His knowledge of the Arabic language and
+of Mohammedan manners had now enabled him to assume the Mussulman
+character with such success, that he resided at Mekka, during the
+whole time of the pilgrimage, and passed through the various
+ceremonies of the occasion, without the smallest suspicion having
+arisen as to his real character. Upon one occasion, when the Pasha
+of Egypt, Mohammed Aly, then holding his head quarters at Tayf, to
+the eastward of Mekka, and who was not altogether ignorant of
+Burckhardt’s connexion with England, thought proper to put his
+qualifications as a Mussulman to the test, by directing the two
+most learned professors of the law, then in Arabia, to examine him
+upon his knowledge of the Koran, and of the practical as well as
+doctrinal precepts of their faith, the result was a complete
+conviction upon the minds of his hearers, or at least of his two
+examiners, of his being not only a true but a very learned
+Mussulman. It was his firm conviction, that the title of Hadji,
+which his pilgrimage gave him the right to assume, would be of the
+greatest use to him in his future travels in the interior of
+Africa. Important however as were the experience and information
+acquired by his journey in Arabia they were too dearly purchased;
+for there can be little doubt, that his constitution never
+recovered from the effects of that fatal climate, which has always
+proved pernicious to Europeans.<a id="FNanchor_9"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_9">[9]</a> The
+severe attacks of fever and dysentery, which he suffered in Arabia,
+appear to have been the ultimate cause of the fatal termination of
+the disorder which, two years afterwards, in closing at once his
+labours and his existence, destroyed the best founded hopes of
+success, in exploring the unknown regions of Africa, which the
+Association had ever formed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_lix">[lix]</span>The following is
+an extract of the letter from Cairo, already alluded to. It was
+dated the 25th June, 1815, and addressed to Sir Joseph Banks.</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p>A long interval has elapsed since I gave you in my letter of
+August 1814, the news of my happy arrival at Djidda from my Nubian
+journey. The difficulty of correspondence between the Hedjaz and
+Egypt, arising from the jealous policy of the newly established
+Turkish government, is one of the reasons which have prevented me
+from sending you any account of the journey, which I have just
+accomplished. Another is, I am sorry to say, repeated and long
+continued attacks of illness. It is now eight days since I am
+returned to this city, in a weak state of health, still suffering
+from the effects of a fever which detained me three months at
+Medina, and had nearly put a stop to all further travels. The
+receipt of your obliging favour of the 10th September, 1814, and of
+a letter from Mr. Hamilton, of the 4th June, of the same year, have
+contributed more than medicines can do to revive my strength, and
+to exhilarate my spirits. Indeed the assurance which these letters
+contain, of my former labours having met with the approbation of my
+employers, has been to me the source of most heartfelt joy, and the
+encouragement which I have derived from it, has entirely banished
+from my mind that despondency, which my bodily sufferings had
+caused.</p>
+
+<p>My physicians will not permit me to write much, I can therefore
+give you but a short sketch of my travels in the Hedjaz. On my
+arrival at Djidda in August 1814, I remained there about a month,
+principally employed in endeavouring to procure a supply of money,
+a bill I had taken with me from Cairo, upon a person residing
+there, not having been honoured. Having at last succeeded in
+obtaining a temporary supply, sufficient until I should receive
+answers from Egypt, I went to Tayf, five days journeys east of
+Djidda, where I spent the Ramadhan and met the Pasha of Egypt,
+Mohammed Aly, who gave me the most polite reception, having already
+seen me at Cairo. It had been my wish to push on farther into the
+mountains of the Hedjaz, but the whole country was over-run by
+parties of hostile Wahabi, and the road itself from Tayf to
+Kolatsh, eight hours distant, where the Turkish head quarters were,
+was continually infested by them. I returned therefore from Tayf to
+Mekka, where I past the months of September, October, and November,
+and after recovering from a violent attack of dysentery, I
+performed on the 25th of November, in the company of more than
+eighty thousand pilgrims, the Hadj to Mount Arafat. In the
+beginning of January, I set out from Mekka to Medina, a journey of
+ten or eleven days, mostly through deserts. My project was to
+remain about three weeks at Medina, and to return from thence over
+land to Egypt, in the hopes of being able to visit on my road, some
+ruins at a place called Hedjer, six days north of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lx">[lx]</span> Medina, where I expected to meet
+with some specimens of the most ancient Arabian monuments. Six days
+after my arrival at Medina, I was attacked by a fever which kept me
+chained to my carpet until April. The state of weakness to which I
+was then reduced obliged me to give up all attempts to travel by
+land; fatigue would have brought on a relapse, and I should have
+perished in some Bedouin hut on the road. As soon as I could
+support the motion of a camel, I left Medina and descended to the
+sea coast at Yembo. The plague, an evil hitherto unknown to Arabia,
+had lately made its appearance here as well as at Djidda, and its
+ravages soon became so great that all the inhabitants left these
+towns, and I found Yembo almost deserted; after a stay of fifteen
+days I embarked on board a country ship, landed at the promontory
+of Ras Mohammed in the peninsula of Mount Sinai, from whence I
+reached Tor, where I had a relapse of my fever, which obliged me to
+remain there near a fortnight. I then took the road of Suez, and
+arrived at Cairo on the nineteenth of June, after an absence of
+nearly two years and a half.</p>
+
+<p>I ascribe my bad health in the Hedjaz to the climate and water;
+the latter, which in these countries is so important an article of
+diet, is every where brackish and of bad taste, much endangering
+the health of all strangers.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In a letter to the Secretary of the Association he adds,</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p>Of the prosecution of my travels into the interior of Africa
+through the Lybian deserts, I shall say nothing at present. Some
+time will be required to recover my strength and to complete my
+journals; when these are accomplished there will, I hope, be
+nothing to prevent me from speedily commencing my final journey,
+for which I trust that I am now qualified in such a manner as to
+authorise my entertaining some hopes of success.</p>
+
+<p>It is impossible for me to express the satisfaction I felt at
+being apprized by you, that my labours had hitherto met with the
+approbation of the African Association. I hope my employers will
+not be disappointed in the favourable hopes they have conceived of
+my future proceedings, and that the sense of gratitude which I
+entertain for their having so liberally left to my entire disposal
+a school time of upwards of six years, will be a pledge that I
+shall use my utmost exertions in the final execution of those
+projects for which I have been so long preparing myself.</p>
+
+<p>My convalescence goes on slowly; the great heat of the present
+season does not permit a rapid return of strength, and I can for
+the same reason work only a few hours during the day.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The following is extracted from a private letter, written about
+the same time, and obligingly communicated to the Association.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxi">[lxi]</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Cairo, 20th July,</em> 1815.</p>
+
+<p>I returned to Egypt last month, in very bad health, for the
+Arabian climate is of the worst kind, and has proved much more
+dangerous to Mohammed Aly’s army than all the forces of the Wahabi.
+Mohammed Aly himself, who had been in the Hedjaz for twenty months,
+returned at the same time to his capital, after having completely
+defeated and destroyed the power of his enemy from Medina southward
+as far as Arabia Felix. Tousoun Pasha remains in the neighbourhood
+of Medina to finish the war by taking Derayeh, the Wahabi capital;
+he has with him about twenty-five hundred or three thousand Turks,
+and eight or ten thousand Arabs. The hasty return of the Pasha to
+his capital was probably owing in some measure to the great fears
+lately prevailing at Cairo and Alexandria, of an expedition of the
+Sultan against Egypt. The Kapoudan Pasha was equipping his fleet,
+had taken on board a numerous corps of soldiers, and issued from
+the Dardanelles without any body knowing the destination of his
+expedition. Mohammed Aly continues to improve the state of Egypt,
+and that of his finances. He has begun to exercise his troops in
+the European manner, has established a large fabric of muskets at
+Cairo, and possesses also two thousand muskets bought in London. An
+Italian has set up a gunpowder manufactory where he has constantly
+two hundred men at work: an Englishman is beginning to establish a
+distillery of rum at the Pasha’s expense upon a very large scale.
+About twenty ships belonging to the Pasha are trading to Italy and
+Spain: six ships in the Red Sea trade to Yemen, and it is in view
+to establish a direct commerce with the East Indies. Immense sums
+have been spent during the last two years in fortifying Alexandria
+and the Castle of Cairo, together with the mountain behind it. But
+what secures to the Pasha the possession of Egypt more than any
+thing else, is the death of three or four thousand soldiers, the
+most rebellious and fiercest of his troops, whom he constantly
+placed as vanguards against the Wahabi, and of whom very few
+returned to Cairo.</p>
+
+<p>I doubt not that your Syrian correspondent has informed you of
+the changes which have taken place in that country. Ibn Djassau
+Oglu has been raised to the Pashalik of Aleppo; he approached that
+town with a large army, and promised safe conduct to all the
+Janissaries, on condition, that they should give him up Ibrahim Aga
+Herbily. The latter in vain offered to his comrades to defray all
+the expenses of the war; they themselves laid hold of him and
+delivered him to the Pasha, who soon afterwards found means to
+entice also the other chiefs to his palace, where he had them all
+massacred. In the possession of Ibrahim Herbily, who was cruelly
+tortured before his death, forty thousand purses were found, the
+greater part of which were hidden in the house of Raphael P———.
+Five<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxii">[lxii]</span> hundred
+Janissaries were killed. Mamuel, one of Mr. Barker’s, shared the
+same fate. The Pasha has been quarrelling with all the Consuls and
+has behaved extremely ill to the Franks. Soleyman Pasha still keeps
+Acre, and has now the whole sea coast up to Latikia under his
+orders. Soleyman Pasha of Damascus has already twice conducted the
+Syrian war to Mekka, and remains in his government.</p>
+
+<p>I hope that you have found Sir Joseph Banks in good health. That
+venerable and noble minded patron of science has written me a
+letter containing expressions which I could expect only from a
+parent. As such I really revere him, and my gratitude towards him
+would alone be sufficient to induce me to pursue my task, even if
+so many other considerations of honour and duty did not concur in
+demanding from me every exertion of my faculties towards this
+object.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>During the succeeding nine months, the attention of Mr.
+Burckhardt was almost entirely devoted to the regaining of his
+impaired strength, and to the preparation of his Nubian and Arabian
+journals for the Association. The following are extracts from three
+letters addressed by him to the Secretary of the Association during
+this period.</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Alexandria, 2d September,</em> 1815.</p>
+
+<p>I am sorry to say that the cure of my long protracted illness
+was not so expeditious as the assurances of my physicians at Cairo
+led me to expect. I had several relapses of my fever; the intense
+heat contributed to weaken my system still more, nor was my
+remaining strength supported by any confidence in the medical skill
+of the persons who attended me: I determined therefore to go to
+Alexandria, fully persuaded that the sea-breeze, and the society of
+Col. Missett would powerfully co-operate to the re-establishment of
+my health. I have now been here for the last sixteen days. Col.
+Missett’s kind and generous hospitality is too well known to all
+Eastern travellers, to stand in need of my commendations; the
+deplorable state of his own health did not prevent him from
+watching with the liveliest interest over the recovery of mine, and
+it is to his attentions and the friendly assistance of Dr. Meryon,
+physician of Lady H. Stanhope, whom her Ladyship had sent here to
+attend the Colonel, that I attribute my present convalescence. Lady
+Hester has been occupied travelling over Syria for the last three
+years, and has established herself at Mar Elias, a convent above
+Seyda.</p>
+
+<p>I shall leave Alexandria next week and return by way of Damietta
+to Cairo, where I hope to finish my journals. The worst effects of
+my fever were shewn in a depression and listlessness which seldom
+permitted me to take up the pen. I hope however soon to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxiii">[lxiii]</span> make amends, and to be
+able to put a speedy term to my stay in Egypt. Convinced as I still
+am, that the Fezzan route presents fewer difficulties for
+penetrating into Africa from the East, than any other, my departure
+from Cairo must depend upon the arrival and redeparture of a Fezzan
+caravan. I trust that I shall have a less severe trial of patience
+than that which made me lose nearly a twelve month in Upper Egypt,
+before I could find an eligible conveyance into Nubia; yet it was
+to that patience that I owed the success of my journey, and I have
+laid it down as an invariable rule never to sacrifice security to
+time, however reluctantly I may submit to the privation of almost
+every means of instruction, and to the total want of rational
+society. The latter, which is but feebly felt in travelling,
+engrosses all one’s leisure thoughts during the tediousness of a
+long protracted fixed residence in any part of these uncivilised
+countries.</p>
+
+<p>The city of Cairo has been lately exposed to serious
+disturbances. The Pasha, after his return from Arabia, attempted to
+introduce the Nizam Djedid, and began to drill both his infantry
+and cavalry according to European tactics. The discontent of the
+troops soon broke out into open rebellion, and Mohammed Aly, who
+had carried his victorious arms to the remotest parts of the
+Turkish empire, had the mortification to see his capital exposed to
+the fury and avidity of his own soldiers, who stripped the greater
+part of the shops, and sacked all the principal Bazars of the town,
+after which they retreated quietly to their quarters, having in
+vain endeavoured to break open the gate of the Frank street. The
+Nizam Djedid has now been given up, and the Pasha, conscious of the
+strength of the rebels, has not deemed it advisable to adopt any
+strong measures of punishment; but in order to conciliate the good
+will, and in case of need the assistance, of the town’s people, he
+has reimbursed to them, out of his own pocket, the whole amount of
+their loss, which has been calculated at four millions of piastres.
+The rebellion happened during the first days of last month. Many
+Franks have left Cairo. Several of them have been much ill treated,
+and shot at by the soldiers, even after the two days of plunder. It
+was the vulgar belief that the Franks had persuaded the Pasha to
+the adoption of European tactics.</p>
+
+<p>The Wahabi war draws to a conclusion. The Pasha on quitting
+Arabia let his son Tousoun Pasha, at the head of his small army, in
+the northern parts of the country. In April last, during the time
+of my residence at Medina, Tousoun took possession of the province
+of Kasyne, a fertile district between Medina and Derayeh, the chief
+seat of the Wahabi; he fought there several battles with the
+Wahabi, in one of which Ibrahim Aga, his treasurer, the first
+officer of his court, was killed after a desperate resistance. This
+man, who was Governor of Medina during the latter part of my stay
+there, was a Scotchman, who had been taken at the battle of
+Rosetta, and who had turned Turk and was become the favourite of
+Tousoun Pasha, whose life he had once saved in an
+engagement<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxiv">[lxiv]</span> with
+the Bedouins. His determined bravery, and faithful attachment to
+the cause of the Pasha would probably have procured him the rank of
+a Pasha of two tails, if he had had the good fortune to return to
+Egypt. Before he fell under the lances of the Wahabi he killed five
+of them with his own hand. The Chief of the Wahabi, Abdallah Ibn
+Saoud, was apprehensive that the repeated advantages gained by
+Tousoun Pasha might cause the principal of his adherents to join
+his enemy; he therefore commenced negotiations. In the month of
+June he paid a visit to Tousoun Pasha, and although the articles of
+peace were not ultimately settled during their conferences, yet
+little doubt was entertained when the last dispatches were sent off
+from Arabia that they would soon be concluded. Abdallah Ibn Saoud,
+in returning to Derayeh, left his own child, two of his brothers,
+and upwards of thirty of the principal Shikhs of Derayeh in the
+hands of Tousoun Pasha, as hostages for his good behaviour.
+Mohammed Aly demands from the Wahabi Chief an enormous sum in
+retribution of his pillaging the temple of the Prophet at Medina;
+he endeavours to prevail upon him to do hommage to the grand
+Signior for the possessions of the Wahabi in Arabia, but leaves him
+in the exercise of his new religion, provided he takes no further
+steps for propagating it.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Cairo, 8th February,</em> 1816.</p>
+
+<p>I have the honour of enclosing herewith the journal of my tour
+through Nubia, from Upper Egypt to Souakin and Djidda. It has been
+ready for some time, but the hope of the arrival of a slave caravan
+which is daily expected, had made me delay its dispatch, in order
+to be able to clear up some doubts from the testimony of these
+traders, whom I might have examined here with much more leisure and
+safety than I could do in their own country. The caravan however is
+not yet arrived, and as I wish this to reach you before the yearly
+meeting of the African Association, I send it off at present,
+reserving the additional remarks and notes for a future period. I
+am busy now in arranging my Arabian journals, which are more
+voluminous than the enclosed, because I found myself more at
+liberty, and much less observed at Mekka and Medina than I was in
+Soudan.</p>
+
+<p>I am sorry to say that my hopes of departing from Cairo are not
+likely to be quickly realised. No Moggrebyn caravan has arrived,
+although the yearly epoch of its arrival in Egypt has long passed
+by. Almost out of patience myself, I am little able to intreat my
+employers not to lose theirs; but if my former labours have
+convinced them that I am averse from trusting my hopes to the
+chances of rash and ill-prepared measures they will also (I hope)
+have experienced that I am not likely to give up projects to which
+I have once pledged myself. My success must be the fruit of
+patience and caution, and I should be wanting in duty both to my
+employers and myself, as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxv">[lxv]</span> well as in the gratitude which I owe to
+providence for having hitherto bestowed success upon my patience,
+if I were now to lose it. I am far from feeling myself comfortable
+in Egypt, and every private motive engages me to wish for a speedy
+departure from this country.</p>
+
+<p>Tousoun Pasha, left by his father Aly as governor of Arabia,
+concluded, in June, 1815, a treaty of peace with the Wahabi. The
+possession of the whole desert and the far greater part of the
+Bedouin tribes were given up to them, while the holy cities with
+their territories were acknowledged as dependencies of the Sultan.
+The Wahabi promised to put no obstacles in the way of the great
+pilgrim caravans. But it is contrary to the politics of Mohammed
+Aly to quell that war entirely, for he knows that as long as Arabia
+is in an unsettled state, and Mekka in danger, he becomes necessary
+to the Mussulman world in his governorship of Egypt, of which he
+might possibly be soon deprived if the Hedjaz was quiet; he has
+therefore refused to ratify the treaty, and his younger son,
+Ibrahim Pasha, is now proceeding to Arabia with a new armament of
+troops. The expenses of the war are covered by the income of Djidda
+and the great profits accruing to the Pasha from his monopolies in
+the trade of the Arabian coast. A lucky chance has put me in
+possession of very interesting papers concerning this Wahabi war,
+which together with the information I collected in the Hedjaz, will
+enable me to throw considerable light upon the whole Wahabi sect
+and their affairs.</p>
+
+<p>For three successive years the plague has raged at Cairo, and
+great apprehensions are entertained of its return this spring. If
+it be so I shall neither imitate my Mussulman neighbours in taking
+no precaution whatever against its attacks, nor the Greeks and
+Franks who shut themselves up for three or four months in their
+houses as close prisoners; but I shall leave the infected borders
+of the Nile, and seek for refuge among the Bedouins. As I have at
+present completely recovered my health, which I principally ascribe
+to an excursion through the Delta, after my visit to Alexandria, I
+do not despair, provided my health keeps pace with my spirits for
+the next three or four years, to bring my labours to a successful
+completion.</p>
+
+<p>I send this with a messenger to Alexandria, from whence it will
+be forwarded by Col. Missett. It has been my peculiar good fortune
+to have met in Syria and in Egypt with such men as Mr. Barker and
+Col. Missett. The latter is now on the point of retiring from
+office, for his infirmities increase rapidly, and the climate of
+Egypt is little calculated to remove them. His public and private
+virtues are such as will ever make him regretted by the Europeans
+of this country, whose zealous protector he has often been, in most
+trying circumstances, and to many a kind benefactor. I have known
+few men who treat and know Turks so well as he does. His rigid
+integrity, his accuracy in business, and his inflexible firmness,
+are the only checks which Mohammed Aly has experienced in his
+relations<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxvi">[lxvi]</span> with
+European governments, for the other Consuls are under such great
+obligations to him that they never dare uphold their nation’s
+interests when they are in opposition to those of the Pasha.
+Nevertheless, the urbanity and generosity of the Colonel’s
+character conciliated the friendship of all the Turks who were
+known to him, and he departs sincerely regretted both by Egyptians
+and Europeans, but particularly by myself, who have always
+experienced from him the most friendly solicitude.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Cairo, 18th April,</em> 1816.</p>
+
+<p>I depart the day after to morrow for Mount Sinai. The plague has
+declared itself in this town, and all the Franks are shut up. I
+should not like to imitate them, and still less to expose myself to
+the infection. As the disorder is likely to spread among the
+villages on the Nile, I have thought that I could not do better
+than retire while it lasts to the Bedouins, who among their many
+advantages over the settled Arabs, enjoy a total exemption from the
+plague. I shall endeavour to push on as far as Akaba, and trace the
+direction of the eastern gulf of the Red Sea, which, as far as I
+know, has never been seen by European travellers.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the following letter Mr. Burckhardt furnishes the Association
+with a short account of the result of his journey in the peninsula
+of Mount Sinai.</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Cairo, 1st July,</em> 1816.</p>
+
+<p>I acquainted you in a former letter with my intention to pass
+the time of the plague in the desert of Sinai. My return to Cairo
+was about the time when the infection usually ceases. From the
+convent of Mount Sinai I made an excursion towards the eastern gulf
+of the Red Sea, which I followed up nearly in its whole length,
+till I came within sight of Akaba (Elana, not Ezion Geber).
+Circumstances did not permit me to visit that spot itself, but I
+could see enough to trace the direction of the gulf as well as of
+the chains of mountains by which this part of Arabia is linked to
+Syria. The sea of Elana is much narrower than that of Suez. Close
+to the shore, on both sides, are high mountains; its main direction
+is more easterly than is generally laid down upon the maps. Bedouin
+of the Arabian coast navigate it, in open boats, in which they
+carry their cattle to the inhabitants of the peninsula for sale,
+and they fish for pearls in several parts of it. Excepting a small
+island, called El Deyr, not far west of Akaba, where some ruins are
+seen, no vestiges of ancient settlers, which could be attributed to
+the Israelites, fell under my observation. At Wady Fizan (one day
+and a half S. W. of the convent of Sinai), are some remains of
+small towns, of the date of the Lower Empire, erected at the time
+when the monastic order had spread over the whole peninsula, which
+appears<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxvii">[lxvii]</span> to have
+contained at that time a great number of convents, forming an
+establishment much resembling that existing now at Mount Athos. The
+most interesting antiquities are the celebrated inscriptions of
+Wady Mekatteb, which have never been fully copied yet; and which
+are so numerous, that they would afford several days labour even to
+an experienced draughtsman. I have met with similar inscriptions in
+many other parts of the mountain, but invariably to the West of
+Djebel Mousa, which is a strong argument in favour of the belief,
+that the authors of them were pilgrims coming from Egypt; and not
+Israelite shepherds, as many have supposed. They evidently appear
+to be mere names, to which the sign <img alt="[Digamma-like symbol]" class="iwsym1" src="images/symbol1.jpg" id="img_images_symbol1.jpg"> is always prefixed. I
+saw no inscriptions of more than a line or two; it appears that
+each pilgrim in passing wrote his name, and the inscribed rocks are
+constantly found on the side of the different great roads, leading
+from Suez to Djebel Sinai, usually near the resting places, which
+were chosen where some impending rock afforded shelter from the
+sun; and where the same convenience still induces travellers to
+halt. In the lower part of the mountains the inscriptions are cut
+in sand stone, in the higher upon granite; the characters have no
+depth, but upon granite even this would be a labour exceeding the
+strength and leisure of ordinary pilgrims. The want of water,
+especially about Wady Mekatteb, precludes the idea of an army
+having passed that way, the soldiers of which might have wished to
+perpetuate their names. Perhaps some of the drawings of animals,
+particularly those of camels and mountain goats, (in Arabic
+“Beden,” which are to this day very common in the mountain) may
+have been done by the Israelite shepherds; I saw similar drawings,
+without inscriptions, upon rocks not far from Akaba. Upon the whole
+these inscriptions appear to me to have a strong resemblance to
+some I have seen in Nubia, written in the ancient Egyptian current
+character; some letters at least appear to be common to both. My
+opinion is that they were the work of Egyptian Christians, or
+perhaps Jews, during the first centuries of our era. Besides those
+of Wad Mekatteb, the most numerous and well written, are those at
+the foot, on the declivity, and at the summit of Djebel Serbal, a
+high mountain, apparently the highest of the whole chain, situated
+S. W. b. W. from the convent about forty miles distant, and which,
+as far as I know, has not been ascended by any former traveller.
+Many circumstances indicate that its pointed summit was once the
+object of a pilgrimage. Artificial steps lead up to it, and the
+inscriptions about the top are innumerable. From what causes this
+mountain derived its sanctity, I could not learn, neither from the
+Arabs nor the priests of the convent, who were even ignorant of the
+ruins of a large convent, situated near the foot of Djebel
+Serbal.</p>
+
+<p>A botanist would find a rich harvest in these high regions, in
+the most elevated parts of which, a variety of sweet scented herbs
+grow. The Bedouins collect to this day the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxviii">[lxviii]</span> manna, under the very same
+circumstances described in the books of Moses. Whenever the rains
+have been plentiful during the winter, it drops abundantly from the
+tamarisk (in Arabic Tarfa); a tree very common in the Syrian and
+Arabian deserts, but producing, as far as I know, no manna any
+where else. They gather it before sunrise, because if left in the
+sun it melts; its taste is very sweet, much resembling honey; they
+use it as we do sugar, principally in their dishes composed of
+flour. When purified over the fire, it keeps for many months; the
+quantity collected is inconsiderable, because it is exclusively the
+produce of the Tarfa, which tree is met with only in a few valleys
+at the foot of the highest granite chain. The inhabitants of the
+Peninsula, amounting to almost four thousand, complain of the want
+of rain and of pasturage; the state of the country must therefore
+be much altered from what it was in the time of Moses, when all the
+tribes of Beni Israel found food here for their cattle. About the
+highest part of the peninsula, springs and wells are in plenty; in
+the middle parts and near the shore water is scarce. The present
+inhabitants are a motley crowd of Bedouins from all quarters,
+Arabians, Syrians, Egyptians, Moggrebyns, united at present in
+three tribes, who are called masters of Sina, and who live like
+true Bedouins. They are in possession of several fruitful valleys
+where date trees grow, and where agriculture is practised by a
+minor set of Arabs, the descendants of Christian families, servants
+of the convents, who turned Mussulmans in the sixteenth century,
+and are no longer to be distinguished from their neighbours. To
+trace the route of the Israelites in this desert becomes very
+difficult, from the change which the proper names seem to have
+undergone. I could find very few watering places, whose names
+correspond with those in the Arabic version of the scriptures,
+although there are several principal valleys and watering places,
+which must have been in the time of Moses, as they are now, the
+main places of resort of the shepherds of this province. About half
+way from Ras Abou Mohammed to Akaba, lies Dahab. (Deuter. I. i.),
+an anchoring place, with date plantations, and several mounds of
+rubbish covering perhaps ancient Hebrew habitations; five hours
+north of Ras Abou Mohammed lies the harbour of Sherm, the only one
+on this coast frequented by large ships. In its neighbourhood are
+volcanic rocks; I could find no others of that description in any
+part of the Sinai deserts, although the Arabs as well as the
+priests of the convent, pretend that from the mountain of Om
+Shommar (about eight hours S. S. W. from Djebel Mousa), loud
+explosions are sometimes heard, accompanied with smoke. I visited
+that mountain, but searched in vain for any traces indicating a
+volcano. The library of the convent of Mount Sinai contains a vast
+number of Arabic MSS. and Greek books; the former are of little
+literary value; of the latter I brought away two beautiful Aldine
+editions, a Homer, and an Anthology. The priests would not
+show<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxix">[lxix]</span> me their
+Arabic memorandum books, previous to the fifteenth century. From
+those I saw, I copied some very interesting documents concerning
+the former state of the country, and their quarrels with the
+Bedouins.</p>
+
+<p>On my return to Cairo, on the 14th of June, Mr. Salt delivered
+to me a couple of pocket compasses, and a letter, to my address,
+which you had ordered to be forwarded to him. This letter was from
+my mother; and I can find no terms adequate to express my thanks
+for your kindness in informing my mother of my welfare, and of the
+satisfaction which my services have caused to my employers. Next to
+the desire of contenting the latter, that of contributing to the
+happiness of my mother is the most fervent I have in this world. So
+flattering a testimony as that which came from you, could not fail
+to excite in her heart very lively emotions, and has created in
+mine sentiments of lasting and heartfelt gratitude towards their
+authors.</p>
+
+<p>I can still give you no hopes of my speedy departure from hence.
+The time has gone by when the Fezzan caravan might have arrived at
+Cairo, and I am left in a state of suspense in which I master with
+difficulty my impatience. My uneasiness encreases by the reflection
+that this prolonged stay in Egypt may be falsely interpreted in
+England, by those who do not know me personally. Yet I cannot
+prevail upon myself to take a false inconsiderate step; and however
+acute my feelings may be on that score, I will rather expose myself
+to the temporary imputation of a neglect of duty, than act with
+rashness and against my conviction. Futurity alone can shew whether
+I was worthy of the full confidence of my employers, or not. If, as
+it is said, the great Moggrebyn pilgrim caravan is to pass here on
+its way to Mekka in October, I may perhaps join it on its return,
+if no earlier occasion offers. I shall thus be enabled to reach
+Fezzan by a circuitous route. Of this I shall of course give the
+African Association further advice, if I should resolve upon
+it.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Salt I believe has already acquainted you with our project
+of conveying the fine granite head of the Memnonium to Alexandria,
+with the intention of sending it to England, and of offering it in
+our joint names to the British Museum. You know that beautiful
+specimen of Egyptian workmanship; the impression which it made upon
+you and your travelling companions in Upper Egypt, was the chief
+incitement to Mr. Salt, who had not yet seen it, to engage in the
+proposed scheme. Mr. Belzoni, a Roman, lately in the service of the
+Pasha, who is a good mechanician, has had proper machines made here
+for its transport, and is gone to Gorne to fetch it. Mr. Salt and
+myself have made a common purse to defray the expenses of the land
+and water carriage, &amp;c. and have given Mr. Belzoni the
+necessary instructions. If we do not succeed, our intentions at
+least were too good to be laughed at, but should the head reach its
+destination, and become as it deserves to be, an object of general
+admiration, it will afford me infinite satisfaction to have been a
+promoter<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxx">[lxx]</span> of this
+enterprize. The heads of the colossi, at Ebsambal (See my journal
+in Nubia.) bear a great likeness to this, with the difference that
+they are of sand stone. The expression of the face is the same;
+perhaps a little more gravity is perceived in those of Nubia, but
+the incomparable serenity, and godlike mildness are remarkable in
+both.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The excursion to Mount Sinai was the last journey which Mr.
+Burckhardt accomplished. From the time of his return to Cairo in
+June 1816, to that of his death in October 1817, he continued to
+reside in the Egyptian capital, occupied in preparing various
+papers for the Association; and in other employments connected with
+Arabic literature, and his travelling pursuits. The letters which
+he addressed during this period to the Committee, shew how deeply
+he felt the disappointment, caused by the non-arrival of any
+caravan from the interior, by the return of which, he might have
+proceeded upon the ultimate object of his mission. His letters
+contain also a series of valuable observations upon the events
+which occurred about that time in Egypt and Arabia, together with
+many remarks upon the manners and government of Egypt, and upon
+those subjects which were his principal objects of enquiry, as an
+agent of the African Association. The remarks of a person who
+unites good sense and judgment to local knowledge and experience,
+are of the highest value in countries where every branch of enquiry
+presents results so different from our preconceived notions,
+founded upon what we have been accustomed to in Europe; where
+accurate information is very difficult to acquire; and where,
+consequently, the remarks of the transient traveller are often
+replete with error. These considerations are a sufficient excuse
+for laying before the reader the most interesting parts of the last
+epistolary communications of Mr. Burckhardt to the Association.
+They are contained in the following extract from his letters, all
+of which, except the last, are addressed to Mr. Hamilton, the
+Secretary.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxi">[lxxi]</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Cairo, October 15th,</em> 1816.</p>
+
+<p>I have the honour of transmitting to the Committee of the
+African Association some papers, forming part of the information
+obtained by me, during my journey through Arabia. They consist of,
+1st. Some further fragments on the Bedouins of Arabia, in sequel to
+those forwarded on former occasions. 2nd. A history of the Wahabi,
+and principally of Mohammed Aly’s late campaign in the Hedjaz. 3rd.
+A few notes to my former journals.</p>
+
+<p>The repeated notices I have transmitted concerning the Bedouins
+of Arabia, will show how much I am interested about them. I believe
+that very little of their real state is known in Europe, either
+because travellers have not sufficiently distinguished Bedouins
+from Arabs in general, or because they have attempted to describe
+them without having had the advantage of seeing them at leisure in
+their own tents, in the interior of the desert. Their nation is the
+original stock, from which Syria, Egypt, and Barbary derive their
+present population, and for this reason alone they deserve to be
+enquired into; but they acquire a still greater interest when we
+consider, that amidst the utter depravity of manners and morals,
+and the decline of laws and civil institutions throughout the
+Mohammedan world, the Bedouins are the only Eastern nation who have
+preserved unchanged their ancient customs, and the manners of their
+forefathers and who still continue to be what they were twelve
+hundred years ago, when their emigrating tribes conquered part of
+Asia, Africa, and Europe. I am aware that my description of the
+Bedouins is not calculated to be acceptable to the public in
+general, as it contains nothing but dry facts: my only object has
+been to fill up a vacuity in our knowledge of the East, and I
+flatter myself that those who are interested in obtaining a
+knowledge of this part of the world will not be displeased at what
+I have done.</p>
+
+<p>You will forgive my having forwarded the papers in so imperfect
+a state. Although my general health is at present very good, my
+eyes are far from being as I wish them to be; and since my severe
+ophthalmic attacks in Upper Egypt, I have repeatedly suffered from
+them, and have lately had again a severe inflammation.</p>
+
+<p>I see that Aly Bey el Abbasi has got the start of me in his
+description of Mekka, but I hope to be able to give some
+information in addition to his. I have lately had an opportunity of
+perusing his work; little as I like the style in which it is
+written and the pretensions of its author, yet I find it incumbent
+upon me to state, that after a minute examination of it, I find no
+reason to doubt the general veracity of Aly Bey; what he says of
+himself in Syria, Egypt, and the Hedjaz, I know to be true,
+although he has not always thought proper to state the whole truth.
+I could tell you many anecdotes to prove how little he imposed,
+with his almost utter ignorance of Arabic, upon the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxii">[lxxii]</span> sharp-sighted natives of
+these countries; but he was perhaps to be excused in fancying that
+he did, as those who partook of his bounty would be the last to
+hint to him their real thoughts on this subject, and whether Bey or
+not, he was a Mussulman, and that was sufficient. His method of
+travelling was very injudicious; surrounded with so much pomp, it
+was almost impossible for him to make many interesting
+observations, for a Turkish grandee is never left alone, and his
+numerous dependents are spies upon all his actions. The plan which
+he gives of the mosque at Mekka is very correct; that of the town
+is much less so, as you will see by comparing it with that which
+accompanies my description of the city. All his views of Hedjaz and
+Syria are drawn from memory; that of Wady Muna is the only one
+slightly resembling the reality. He has made one very curious
+mistake, which is, that he persuades himself that he was at Mekka,
+when the Wahabi took possession of that town, an event which
+happened three years before his arrival there. I am indignant at
+his daring to question the veracity of Mr. Browne, (by whose side
+he is a mere pigmy,) upon so trivial a fact as that of the
+existence of carpets in one of the mosques of Cairo, where I
+actually saw carpets spread not longer ago than yesterday.</p>
+
+<p>To advert to another more humble African adventurer,—I have
+lately seen the Quarterly Review of the Travels of Adams to
+Tombuctou, (which the Africans call Timbuctou,) but not the work
+itself. From what I have heard related in Egypt, and the Hedjaz, by
+several Felata Bedouins coming as Hadjis, from the neighbourhood of
+Timbuctou, by the way of Tunis, I believe that Adams’s description
+of that town is correct. One of them told me it was half as large
+as Cairo, and built of low mud houses, such I believe as are common
+all over Soudan. As to his river, I likewise heard that the
+Timbuctou river flows westward. The old story, that it is the same
+river with the Egyptian Nile was also repeated, which of course is
+in direct contradiction to the former supposition. The truth seems
+to be, that the ignorant Africans finding the two rivers to
+resemble each other, in size, in productions, and in the regularity
+of their inundation, conclude them to be the same. The name of La
+Mar Zarah, which he ascribes to the river of Timbuctou, I believe
+to be misspelt for Bahr El Ahmar El Sahára; (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بحر الاحمر الصحرا</span>) or the Red River of the
+Desert.<a id="FNanchor_10"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_10">[10]</a> This epithet is perhaps
+applied to it in the same manner, as Abiadh, Azrak, Akhdar, “white,
+blue, green,” are given to the different branches of the Nile. La
+Mar Zarah is said to be of a muddy colour, and the Egyptians
+describe the Nile by the word Ahmar, at the time when it first
+begins to rise and to become muddy.</p>
+
+<p>The names of the King and Queen of Timbuctou seem to shew that
+they are Mohammedans. Woolo seems to be Wouli, which in Arabic,
+means Governor or Ruler (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">والي</span>),<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxiii">[lxxiii]</span> and is given to all their governors,
+and Fatima is evidently a Moslim name. That Adams did not see them
+pray, is no proof to the contrary; he might reside for months at
+Berber or Shendy without witnessing any sort of public worship.
+There are however some of his statements which struck me as quite
+impossible, and convinced me of his want of veracity, at least with
+regard to them. I can never believe that twenty-three persons
+travelling on foot, with women and children, can cross a waterless
+desert of thirty days journey, without any other supply of water
+than what was loaded upon four camels; nor again, that twenty eight
+persons could travel in the same manner, for twenty-nine days, with
+four camels only partly loaded with water. Such powers of
+abstinence, neither Arabs nor Nubians, nor their camels possess;
+every person who has travelled in a caravan of camels, will
+disbelieve such assertions. After eight days the water kept in the
+best Soudan water skins is partly evaporated, and the remainder,
+from the continual shaking, is reduced to a thick black mud, which
+extreme necessity alone can make one swallow. The best camels for
+transport, known in the countries which I have visited, are the
+Darfour breed. They are never longer than ten or twelve days on
+their road to Egypt, without water, and even in that journey many
+of them perish of thirst. The daily supply of one quart would
+afford little relief to an animal which when thirsty swallows fifty
+or sixty, and after several days thirst, one hundred pounds of
+water. Four camel loads of water would in North-eastern Africa,
+even among the Nubian merchants, who carefully reckon every pound
+weight to be loaded upon their camels, be thought a scanty
+allowance for twenty-eight persons, even if they were mounted on
+camels, for a journey of five or six days. It is not by a daily
+allowance of half a pint mixed with urine, that a pedestrian
+traveller in the sands of Africa can hope to support his strength,
+through the continued exertions of such a journey; nor shall I ever
+believe that the Moors are so much superior to the Nubians,
+although they may be rather stronger than Aly Bey el Abbassi, who
+was perishing with thirst in a desert of Barbary, of one day’s
+journey across, fainting at four P. M. after having drank at noon a
+large draught. Stories of long journeys without water are to be
+placed in the same class with those of hot winds, overwhelming
+sands, and the miraculous swiftness of camels, &amp;c. &amp;c. They
+all originate in the fancy of Bedouins, who at the expense of
+truth, thus indulge the curiosity of the inhabitants of the towns,
+gaping at the wonders of the desert. They can be contradicted only
+by the few who have actually crossed the deserts, while they will
+be constantly corroborated by those who draw their information only
+from bragging Arabians or Moors.</p>
+
+<p>I am certain that you take a lively interest in the travels of
+the unfortunate Seetzen, who was poisoned five years ago in Yemen.
+His labours, I can assure you, have been very extensive, and
+conducted in a most enlightened manner. His intimate
+acquaintance<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxiv">[lxxiv]</span>
+with all branches of natural history was applied with indefatigable
+zeal to countries the most difficult of access, and he had many
+times nearly become a martyr to those pursuits, before he met with
+his ultimate fate. It has fallen to my lot to trace his footsteps,
+in many hitherto unknown parts of Syria and Arabia Petrӕa, and
+again in the Hedjaz; these, together with what I heard from the
+Europeans who knew him at Aleppo, Damascus, and Cairo, as well as
+from many Arabs on the road, have inspired me with as great a
+respect for his private character, as the dispersed memoirs of his
+researches already published, must give every reader for his
+literary acquirements. Although endowed with a lively fancy, and
+even with considerable poetical talents, he was a man of plain
+truth. If sometimes over fond of speculating upon the facts which
+he had collected, yet I am certain that in stating those facts, he
+observed the strictest adherence to truth, and I have not the
+smallest doubt, that if he had lived to publish the mass of
+knowledge which he had acquired during his travels, he would have
+far excelled all travellers, who ever wrote on the same countries.
+Mr. Salt has lately shewn me a letter which he received in 1811,
+from Mr. Rutland, then factor at Mokha, acquainting him with the
+death of Seetzen, which had just taken place, and making mention,
+at the same time, of several papers which he had left as a present
+to Mr. Rutland, who adds that as they are in German he cannot read
+them. As Mr. Seetzen would hardly have thought it worth while to
+make such a present to a person who could so little appreciate its
+value, I am much inclined to suspect they were only left in his
+hands as a deposit. Exact designs and descriptions of Mekka and
+other places, vocabularies of eighteen African languages, &amp;c.
+are stated to be among the number. Seetzen’s friends at Cairo,
+according to the common practice of Levantines, amongst whom most
+of the pseudo Franks established in these parts must be classed,
+entirely forgot him as soon as he was beyond their threshold, and
+it thus happened that although his death took place as far back as
+September, 1811, in the vicinity of Mokha, where it was of public
+notoriety, and that although since the beginning of 1811, no news
+whatever had been heard of him at Cairo, yet nobody thought proper
+to write to Mokha, for further enquiry, and as late as July 1815,
+nothing was known here of his fate. I then received a letter from
+Mokha, giving some details of the death of Mr. Seetzen, which I
+forwarded immediately to Vienna, accompanying it with a letter of
+my own to Mr. Hammer, which he, without being authorized to it,
+abridged and published, together with the other paper.</p>
+
+<p>An Italian physician of the name of Cervelli, now established as
+a merchant at Alexandria, made four years ago some interesting
+travels in the North of Africa; he was attached to the son of
+Yousef Pasha of Tripoli, in the capacity of physician, and his
+patron being sent by his father to reduce Fezzan, the chief of
+which had been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxv">[lxxv]</span>
+dilatory in the payment of the tribute, Cervelli accompanied the
+Pasha’s son upon that expedition; they first went from Tripoli by
+land to Derne, near to which Mr. Cervelli saw the splendid ruins of
+Cyrene, at least what he supposed to be the remains of that town;
+they went from Derne to Augila, and from thence to Fezzan, where
+they remained about six weeks, and then returned over a chain of
+mountains, where he found snow, (for it was in winter,) by Sokhne
+to Tripoli.</p>
+
+<p>He heard of two English travellers having been at Fezzan, of
+whom one died, and the other was never heard of after his departure
+for Soudan; the name of Hornemann was unknown to Mr. Cervelli. This
+gentleman, although not a man of letters, possesses natural
+talents, and a good deal of vivacity and good nature; he told me
+that he took many notes, that he has not yet drawn up a journal,
+but that he has some intention of publishing his travels: I never
+could get him to shew me any of his papers, but I know that he
+possesses some, together with a few sketches of drawings; as his
+time is now totally occupied by commercial pursuits, I doubt,
+whether he will ever have leisure to work up his journal, and
+therefore, being well persuaded of the interest which his tour
+would excite, I have done my best to get possession of his papers,
+and offered him a thousand piastres for them, under the formal
+promise that if ever they should be published, it should be under
+his own name. Since his departure for Alexandria, I have charged
+Mr. Thurburn, formerly secretary to Colonel Missett, and now a
+partner in the house of Briggs and Co. a gentleman of much
+information, to renew the negociation with Mr. Cervelli. He has
+lately informed me, that Mr. Cervelli refuses to part with his
+papers; but has promised to employ his evenings in arranging them,
+as he wishes to publish them himself.</p>
+
+<p>I feel the greatest regret, in being obliged to inform you, in
+closing this letter, that I have no well founded hopes of being
+able to leave Egypt before next spring. It would be tedious to
+enter into all the disappointments I have experienced, by the
+non-arrival of the western caravan. If the Committee believes that
+I am not a trifler in my duty, they will not doubt that nothing but
+imperious circumstances could so long detain me at Cairo. If, on
+the contrary, my prolonged stay in this city should give rise to
+any doubts of the sincerity of my intentions, I feel that nothing
+that I could say on the subject could possibly remove them.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Cairo, 20th February,</em> 1817.</p>
+
+<p>By the present conveyance, I have the honour of transmitting to
+the Committee, my journals in the Hedjaz, together with some
+notices on the interior of Africa, and a translation<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxvi">[lxxvi]</span> from Macrizi, containing
+some documents on the history and geography of Nubia and the Nile
+countries; which may serve to illustrate my travels in Nubia.</p>
+
+<p>You will be pleased to hear that the colossal head from Thebes
+has at last, after many difficulties, safely arrived at Alexandria.
+Mr. Belzoni, who offered himself to undertake this commission, has
+executed it with great spirit, intelligence, and perseverance. The
+head is waiting now at Alexandria for a proper conveyance to Malta.
+Mr. Salt and myself have borne the expenses jointly, and the
+trouble of the undertaking has devolved upon Mr. Belzoni, whose
+name I wish to be mentioned, if ever ours shall on this occasion,
+because he was actuated by public spirit fully as much as
+ourselves. The Committee need not be under any apprehension, that
+this transaction has caused my name to become of public notoriety
+in Egypt; which would certainly have been the case, if it had been
+known that I had a hand in the business, for during the fortnight
+the head remained at Boulak, the vessel was constantly crowded by
+swarms of visitors, of all classes. Nobody knows that I have had
+any thing to do with it. The Kahirines ascribe it entirely to Mr.
+Salt and Mr. Belzoni, who, they say, send it to England to have it
+taken to pieces, in order to find the invaluable jewel which it
+contains. The residence of the French Savans in Egypt has not
+taught them to form better notions, and the same kind of belief
+which caused the Shikh of Tedmor to resist my carrying off a small
+mutilated bust, found near the portico at Palmyra, still operates
+in every part of Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>The peasants of Gourne reported to me, that the French had in
+vain endeavoured to carry off this head: and that they had even cut
+a hole in the lower part of the bust, to blow off part of the
+stone, and render it thus more transportable. I am ignorant for
+what reason they relinquished that scheme, but it is somewhat
+curious to find that in the drawing which they have given of that
+head, in their great work, they have represented it as it would
+probably have been, after the lower part should have been
+destroyed.</p>
+
+<p>The discoveries of Mr. Belzoni in Upper Egypt, are too
+interesting not to deserve notice here. He has half cleared the
+temple of Ebsambal in Nubia, of the sands that obstructed it. The
+frontispiece of the temple, which has thus been discovered, is full
+of hieroglyphics; of the four colossi which stand before it, the
+face of one only (which I have mentioned in my journal), remains
+perfect; one of the three others has been reduced by mutilation to
+a mere lump of rock.</p>
+
+<p>Behind Gourne<a id="FNanchor_11"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_11">[11]</a>
+he has discovered a new tomb of the kings, about one mile distant
+from the most western “insulated tomb,” as the French laid it down
+in their map. He<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxvii">[lxxvii]</span> says it is beautiful, and larger than
+any of the others, with a sarcophagus in it. All the paintings are
+done upon a white stucco, adhering loosely to the wall, and thus
+easily to be removed.</p>
+
+<p>By digging at Gourne, in the plain between the Memnonium, and
+Medinet Habou,<a id="FNanchor_12"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_12">[12]</a>
+in a western direction from the two sitting colossi, about half a
+mile distant from them, he found a mutilated colossal head of
+granite, of much larger dimensions than the one he carried off, or
+any other at Thebes, being from ten to twelve feet across the
+front.</p>
+
+<p>You remember the small pond, within the enclosure of the
+interior part of the temple of Karnak, towards the side of
+Luxor,<a id="FNanchor_13"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_13">[13]</a> which encircles on three
+sides an elevated ground. A row of Andro-sphynxes, or whatever they
+may be called, stand there, which the French had dug up, and of
+which Mr. William Banks carried off last year the two best. In
+digging farther on in the line in which these statues stood, Mr.
+Belzoni has discovered eighteen others, of similar shape, but of
+much superior workmanship, all in beautiful preservation; he has
+brought down six of them to Mr. Salt, who had furnished him with
+money for the express purpose of procuring antiquities; besides the
+commission to carry off the head. By the side of these figures he
+has found another statue, of a hard, large grained sand stone: it
+is a whole length naked figure, sitting upon a chair, with a ram’s
+head upon the knees; the face and body entire; with plaited hair
+falling down to the shoulders. This is one of the finest, I should
+say the finest Egyptian statue I have seen; the expression of the
+face is exquisite, and I believe it to be a portrait. From the
+beautiful preservation of all these figures, which is so rare in
+Egypt, Mr. Belzoni argues, that the Egyptians used this place to
+hide their idols, when<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxviii">[lxxviii]</span> the Persians came to destroy them,
+and he hopes, in going up a second time to Thebes, to find at the
+same place other treasures. He has likewise found at Karnak, the
+four sided monument, with figures in high relief on three sides of
+it, of which the French talk so highly in their work, and of which
+they have given a drawing. But it was in quite a different place
+from that indicated by them, for Mr. Belzoni found it under ground
+far to the east of the adytum of Karnak. This, with a dozen of
+Sphinxes, he has been obliged to leave on the shore of the river
+near Karnak, the boat being already over loaded. The head alone
+weighs, I believe, from twelve to fifteen tons.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Belzoni, who is as enterprising as he is intelligent,
+high-minded, and disinterested, further informs us, that he has dug
+up the colossus, indicated by the French upon their map of Karnak,
+as laying on the N. W. side of the abovementioned pond, under the
+name of “Colosse renversé.” He has turned it up, and finds it to be
+a torso without head, or feet, about thirty feet in length, of
+beautiful workmanship; he says that he has seen nothing in Egypt,
+not even excepting our head, that can be compared to it, as it is a
+true imitation of nature, not done in the usual hard style, but
+according to the best rules of art.</p>
+
+<p>If Mr. Belzoni had had a flat bottomed boat at his command, he
+is confident that he should have been able to float down one of the
+small obelisks of Philӕ, about twenty five feet in length. He
+handles masses of this kind with as much facility as others handle
+pebbles, and the Egyptians who see him a giant in figure, for he is
+six feet and a half high, believe him to be a sorcerer. Manual
+labour is so very cheap in Upper Egypt, that a little money goes a
+great way: the hire for a Fellah per day, is about four-pence;
+although upwards of one hundred Fellahs were occupied for many days
+with our head, and that we paid one hundred pounds for the boat
+only, and made a present to Mr. Belzoni, small indeed, but as much
+as our circumstances permitted, the total expense incurred by us,
+as far as Alexandria, does not amount to more than three hundred
+pounds, and Mr. Belzoni’s whole expedition, to about four hundred
+and fifty pounds. The Pasha of Egypt is luckily not yet aware of
+the value of these statues; if he was, he would probably imitate
+Wely Pasha of the Morea, and ask for passage money, for he extends
+his extortions over every article of Egyptian produce, and
+condescends even to farm out the trade of camel and sheep’s dung.
+Mr. Belzoni, who is known in England as a hydraulic engineer, and
+is married to an English woman, who has accompanied him to Egypt,
+entered last year the service of the Pasha, as a mechanic, but not
+being able to contend with the intrigues of a Turkish court, and
+too honourable to participate in them, he was dismissed as unfit
+for his business, and five months of pay still remain due to him.
+So much for the Pasha’s encouragement of European artists. They are
+enticed into his service by his emissaries in the Mediterranean,
+but are soon left to bewail their credulity.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxix">[lxxix]</span>You will
+find in the notes accompanying my translation of Macrizi, the
+account of some other very interesting discoveries, in the Eastern
+mountains of Upper Egypt; and last month, the old and so often
+visited pyramid of Djize was so well rummaged, that much curious
+new matter has come to light. Mr. Caviglia, an Italian, and Mr.
+Kabitch, a German, settled here, formed the project of exploring
+the well in the great pyramid. In the course of the operation, they
+have discovered that a continuation of the descending passage leads
+to a chamber under the centre of the pyramid, and they find that no
+other well descends into the passage.</p>
+
+<p>I have been led to believe from various circumstances, that this
+new discovered continuation of the entrance passage was opened in
+the time of the Khalif who opened the pyramid, and that it has been
+choaked up ever since. If I am to believe Sherif Edrys, the author
+of a history of the Pyramids, a book, I believe, unknown in Europe,
+and which I have lately purchased here, the interior of the pyramid
+is full of passages and rooms, and several sarcophagi are yet to be
+discovered. This author wrote in the twelfth century, and himself
+minutely examined the pyramid.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot dismiss the subject of Egyptian antiquities, without
+saying a word of Mr. Drovetti’s collection. It is certainly at
+present the finest of all those extant, in Italy, France, and
+England. There are few large statues, but great numbers of middle
+sized, and an innumerable series of idols, scarabees, medals,
+intaglios, and other articles illustrative of the religion and
+domestic life of the Egyptians, their dress, furniture, &amp;c.
+&amp;c. His rolls of papyrus are particularly valuable. He has ten
+quite entire, three of which are, I believe, the largest ever found
+in this country, together with a great number of smaller ones; and
+a large Coptic manuscript, written upon gazelle skin, found in the
+island of Omke, above the cataract of Wady Halfa. Many large
+specimens of Egyptian sculpture may yet be obtained, but it will be
+long before so complete a collection of smaller articles will be
+collected by one person. Mr. Drovetti has been for twelve years a
+person of great influence, and even power in Egypt; and his great
+object has been, to augment his collection, for which purpose he
+employed people in every part of the country. As it often happens
+in the Levant, with Europeans, long settled there, mercantile and
+pecuniary interests have at last got the better of his love for
+antiquity, and Mr. Drovetti having now turned corn-dealer, is
+desirous of converting his collection into cash. It would certainly
+be most desirable to have the collection in England. I believe that
+it has cost him about fifteen hundred pounds, and is certainly
+worth three or four times that sum in Europe.</p>
+
+<p>I am in anxious expectation of a caravan for Lybia, and I have
+been long prepared to start at the shortest notice; I shall now
+leave Egypt with the more pleasure, because I shall not have to
+regret the abandoning of my journals in a rude state, which
+would<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxx">[lxxx]</span> have been
+the case if I had departed last year; for it will afford me no
+small consolation in my future travels, to think that whatever may
+be my fate, some fruit has been reaped from my pursuits, and that
+the Association is now in possession of several journals,
+containing new information upon very interesting countries.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Cairo, March 23d,</em> 1817.</p>
+
+<p>If any thing can give me pleasure, it is the information which
+you give me, that my employers are contented with me, and I beg you
+to assure them, that as long as I shall have the honour to be in
+their service, no efforts shall be left untried by me to deserve
+their approbation. I fully appreciate the permission they have
+given me, to pass so long a time out of the intended direction of
+my labours. If some credit be due to me for the manner in which I
+have spent this time, no less is due to their liberality, in
+affording me the means of applying my exertions to countries and
+subjects, that fell not within the immediate scope of my mission;
+although I flatter myself, that the purposes of the latter were at
+the same time considerably advanced.</p>
+
+<p>It affords me much satisfaction to understand that what I have
+written on the Bedouins has been found of interest. My last
+additions to those papers, which complete all the information I
+possess on that nation, have perhaps not reached you. I have
+illustrated their manners, laws, and character, with much pleasure,
+because I hold them to be infinitely superior to their neighbours
+the Turks. They have happily escaped the corruption of Levantine
+manners and morals, and this alone entitles them to the attention
+of the European public, although few travellers have thought them
+worth noticing, otherwise than as a nation of bloody, savage, and
+faithless robbers.</p>
+
+<p>When you ask me whether I know Antar, you probably forget that
+the first knowledge I gained of that author, was from an odd volume
+in your own library.<a id="FNanchor_14"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_14">[14]</a>
+I fully agree with you in your sentiments concerning it; it has
+certainly every characteristic of an epic poem; it is throughout of
+high interest, and often sublime. I have attentively read little
+more than one twelfth part of it; the copy I bought at Aleppo is
+among the MSS. which I sent to England from Syria. Its style is
+very remarkable; without descending to the tone of common
+conversation, as the One Thousand and one Nights often do, it is
+simple, and natural, and clear of that bombast, and those forced
+expressions, and far-fetched metaphors, which the Orientals admire
+even in their prosaists, but which can never be to the taste of an
+European critic. The poetry appears almost every where to be the
+effusion of real sentiment, and the heroic strain of Antar’s war
+and love songs, his satires and bursts of self-praise, are as
+exalted as they are natural. You are no<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxxi">[lxxxi]</span> doubt informed that this same Antar was
+one of the poets of the Moallakat, and that Osmay, who relates his
+life in this work, occupied a high rank among the poets at the
+court of Haroun er-Rashid, and his son Mamoun. I believe Sir
+William Jones was the first to call the attention of the public to
+this romantic poem, in his Comment. Poes. Asiat. He possessed only
+one or two volumes of it, yet enough to convince him of the
+excellence of the whole performance, of which he speaks in terms of
+the highest praise.</p>
+
+<p>Having occasion to write to your brother<a id="FNanchor_15"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_15">[15]</a> not long since, I suggested to him the
+expediency of making some abridgement, in case of his publishing a
+translation of any part of Antar, for there are many repetitions,
+in which the Arabs delight, but which lessen the general interest
+of the work. I am confident that the translation of the abridged
+Antar would extremely gratify the public, and nothing would give me
+greater pleasure, than to see the noble Bedouin romance ushered
+into this world.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Cairo, 18th May,</em> 1817.</p>
+
+<p>By the present opportunity I transmit to Sir Joseph Banks, my
+journal in the peninsula of Sinai, and to you, a volume of proverbs
+and popular sayings current at Cairo. I am afraid the Committee
+will be startled at all the Arabic it contains, and exclaim that
+the writer was sent to these countries not to become a translator
+but a discoverer. I can only say in excuse, that as my stay in this
+city has been unfortunately, but necessarily, so much prolonged, I
+thought that with a view to forward my future designs, I could not
+do better than pursue my study of Arabic, and in so far I can
+assure you, that I have derived essential benefit from this
+compilation, while at the same time I hope that a knowledge of the
+Arab nation, and of their present language, may be somewhat
+advanced by it, and facilitated to others. In translating and
+explaining these sayings, I have been actuated by another motive; I
+wished to leave a memorial with my employers, as well as with the
+public, that I had acquired a competent knowledge of the vulgar
+dialect of the people whom I have described in my journals. The
+simple assurance to that effect, would go very little way with
+those, who know that for the last fifty years few Europeans have
+published their travels among Arabs, without pretending to be
+familiar with their language, and at the same time giving proofs of
+gross ignorance of it. It is true that from the perusal of my
+journals, and from the information which I collected in the course
+of my travels without the help of interpreters, the reader will
+probably infer that I must have understood something of this
+language; but he would still be left in utter ignorance<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxxii">[lxxxii]</span> whether that
+acquaintance was such, as to confirm or detract from the veracity
+of the stated facts; the latter being often applicable to those,
+who hear and understand only by halves, yet enough to make them
+believe that they are not in want of a Dragoman. I have therefore
+thought it incumbent upon me, to give some clear proof how far I
+really possess that knowledge, and cannot help flattering myself
+that by this little work I have given a greater degree of
+authenticity to my journals. If I am not able to display the
+learning of a profound Arabic scholar, I trust at least that those
+who take the trouble to peruse this volume, will give me credit for
+understanding the language of the bazar, and of the peasants, and
+that is all I wish for at present.</p>
+
+<p>From what I have just said, you will perceive that I am desirous
+of having these sheets published. The number of amateurs of Arabic
+is so very small in Europe, and the printing of Arabic is so
+expensive, that even the advantageous sale of such a work would, I
+believe, hardly defray one third of the expenses. It is reasonable
+to doubt whether the African Association would like to engage in an
+undertaking, so foreign to its avowed pursuits, although I shall be
+very happy to find that I am mistaken in this surmise. But it
+strikes me that the Directors of the East India Company, who
+patronise so liberally every branch of Oriental learning, may
+perhaps be willing to lend their assistance to this
+publication.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Salt has already acquainted you with the further discoveries
+near the pyramids. He and Mr. Briggs made a common purse to enable
+Captain Caviglia, whose pecuniary resources were exhausted by his
+works, in the interior of the pyramid, to pursue his labours under
+their directions in its neighbourhood, and especially near the
+Sphinx. The small temple which the Sphinx holds between its
+monstrous paws, is certainly very interesting, and of the best
+Egyptian workmanship. The hieroglyphics upon its walls are
+beautifully cut, and belong to the best period of Egyptian art. The
+many fragments of sculpture found between the paws are of a less
+remote period, and seem to have been placed there as offerings by
+the Greek Egyptians, who wrote the Greek inscriptions found on one
+of the paws and upon a large detached slab of stone; they belong to
+the reigns of Claudius, and Adrian, &amp;c. The flight of steps cut
+out of the rock, that lead down to the avenue in front of the paws
+about sixty feet distant from them, and which describe a curve,
+bear likewise more resemblance to Greek than to Egyptian work. The
+designs which Mr. Salt has made are strikingly correct, and will
+indemnify future travellers, for having missed the opportunity of
+inspecting these curious monuments. Very few of them can have the
+satisfaction to admire these beautiful ornaments of the Sphinx, a
+colossus that is to me more imposing even than the pyramids, for
+the latter, after all, appear like small mountains; while the
+former is a gigantic animal. The labourers will no sooner quit the
+place, than<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxxiii">[lxxxiii]</span>
+the sands will return to their former situation, and few people
+will have the courage to dig them out again. Captain Caviglia, who
+continues at the work with incredible ardour, says that with two
+thousand pounds he should be able to clear the whole Sphinx, from
+top to bottom on all sides, and little doubt can be entertained of
+his finding in that case, other important monuments of antiquity;
+perhaps large temples or grottos cut out of the rock, below and on
+the sides of the Sphinx, which appears to stand in a hollow.</p>
+
+<p>Our colossal head is to leave Alexandria very soon, on board a
+transport which Admiral Penrose has sent to load corn. Mr. Belzoni,
+who is at present with Mr. Beechy, the secretary of Mr. Salt, at
+Thebes, has made many excavations there, and has found at Karnak a
+colossal head very little injured equal in beauty and size to ours,
+and in the highest preservation. Among other things he has found
+two large bronze vases covered with hieroglyphics.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the plague is over at Alexandria, I shall transmit to
+England a large chest of Arabic manuscripts. My whole collection,
+including two chests already sent to England, amounts to about four
+hundred volumes, composed principally of historical books, among
+which are many not found in Europe, and very scarce even in the
+East.</p>
+
+<p>I have still to regret the non-arrival of caravans from the
+west, and I can only repeat that whenever one arrives, I shall
+certainly accompany it, on its return to Fezzan. In the meanwhile I
+must rely on the justice of the Association, not to put any other
+construction on my delay than those which I have stated. I am
+conscious that I subject their patience to a very severe trial, but
+mine at the same time is put to the torture.</p>
+
+<p>Did I not indulge the reasonable hope that my conduct, since I
+have been in their service, entitles me to the confidence of my
+employers, I should be inclined to load my camel, and enter Lybia
+alone, to prove to them that it is neither want of courage, nor of
+zeal, that keeps me so long in inaction.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="letter">
+<p class="right"><em>Cairo, May 18th,</em> 1817.<a id="FNanchor_16"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_16">[16]</a></p>
+
+<p>My journal in the peninsula of Sinai has grown to such a bulky
+volume, that I am somewhat apprehensive, of its being less
+acceptable on that account, but as there is no necessity for its
+being published at full length, the editor may cut off at pleasure
+all the less interesting matter. I had more liberty to write during
+the greater part of this journey, than I possessed in several
+former ones. This small country so important to the history of
+mankind, has never before been described in detail. The commentary
+on the route of the Israelites, which I have annexed to it, I
+submit with much diffidence to the perusal of the Committee, as I
+cannot but feel apprehensive that what strikes me to be correct,
+may not appear equally so to persons<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxxiv">[lxxxiv]</span> who have not visited the desert, and
+have not travelled with Bedouins. Should my opinions meet with
+approbation, I shall be particularly gratified, in having been able
+to elucidate some obscure points of early history, and to vindicate
+the authenticity of the sacred historian of the Beni Israel, who
+will be never thoroughly understood, as long as we are not minutely
+informed of every thing relative to the Arabian Bedouins, and the
+country in which they move and pasture.</p>
+
+<p>There was a time when I never wrote to you, without being able
+to acquaint you either with the termination of some interesting
+excursion, or with my being just upon the start for another.
+Instead of which, I have been obliged to content myself now for
+nearly two years, with comments upon former journeys, or to offer
+you of future ones, the promise instead of the deed.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot yet move from hence as no caravan has yet arrived from
+the west; it is indeed expected, but so it has been for a length of
+time, and that very expectation prevents me from undertaking any
+other journey, and chains me to this town, the air of which presses
+more heavily upon my lungs than did the pestilential exhalations of
+the saltmarshes of Medina. Had I any reasonable hope of being able
+to reach my destination by any other route, than that of Fezzan,
+believe me, not a moment’s delay should be incurred, to relieve
+myself from the most painful sensation I have felt since I left
+England, that of being more or less exposed to the blame of
+relaxation or want of spirit, in the performance of my duty. Had I
+less at stake I should perhaps be less prudent, but when I consider
+that during eight years, I have done my best to acquire the proper
+qualifications for the undertaking, I am unwilling to risk the
+prospect of success now in my hands, while if I can finally set out
+upon my journey in an eligible manner, I have some well founded
+expectations of bringing it to a happy issue. If I fail, it must
+cost my successor many years of apprenticeship, to be able to enter
+the gates of Libya, with as much confidence, as I shall now be able
+to do. I believe that the non-arrival of the Fezzan caravan is to
+be ascribed to the encreased demands of black slaves on the coast
+of Barbary, to replace the white slaves so gloriously delivered by
+the English fleet, for I have understood that the intercourse
+between Tripoly and Fezzan has been very brisk for the last
+twelvemonth. The demand for slaves, however, is no less great in
+Egypt, where the plague has made for the last four years, great
+ravages among the black species, which it appears to attack in
+preference even to the white; and if the Barbary market is glutted,
+which already must be the case, the Fezzan traders will again drive
+their human cattle to the slave folds of this town.</p>
+
+<p>Mohammed Aly has within the last month begun a work for which he
+would deserve great credit, were it not clear that far from its
+being made subservient to the benefit of his subjects, it will only
+furnish him with pretexts for new extortions. He is
+re-opening<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxxv">[lxxxv]</span> the
+ancient canal from Rahmanye to Alexandria, a measure that becomes
+from year to year more necessary, as the bar of Rosetta is almost
+choaked up by sand; and has been during this winter for four months
+quite impassable, even to the flat bottomed boats of this country.
+Already last year the Pasha had caused a causeway to be carried
+across the mouth of the lake of Madye, and thus stopped the
+communication of that lake with the Sea, establishing by these
+means, a land-road all the way from Rosetta to Alexandria. But the
+Lybian Bedouins who were called with their camels, to transport the
+corn collected at Rosetta from all Egypt, by this new road to
+Alexandria, were so ill-treated by the Turkish officers, and so
+much curtailed of their freight, that they soon fled back to the
+desert, and thus the trade has as yet derived very little profit
+from that road. The opening of the canal, which is calculated to be
+a work of two years, for sixty thousand men, at an expense of about
+two millions of dollars, will open a water communication from all
+parts of Egypt to Alexandria, uninterrupted through the whole year,
+but such imposts will be levied, as will soon cause the native
+merchants to regret the ancient passage by the bar of Rosetta; the
+Fellahs meantime employed in this and the other public works, are
+treated much in the same manner as were the Israelites by Pharaoh.
+The income of the Pasha, which upon a moderate calculation is two
+and a half or three millions sterling, per annum, (and of which he
+spends at most half,) added to the low price of labour, and the
+abundance of hands, render similar undertakings in Egypt much less
+difficult than they would be in other parts of the Turkish
+dominions. Perhaps the canal between the Nile and the Red Sea will
+be opened afterwards; if the direct intercourse with India, which
+the Pasha has already set on foot, succeeds according to his
+wishes, and is not opposed by the East India Company. Such
+enterprises might cause any other country to flourish, and to
+increase in wealth and industry; but here, none will benefit by
+them but the Pasha himself, and those employed by him in lucrative
+situations, while the mass of the people bewail the long duration
+of these works, in the execution of which they are in every
+instance defrauded of their dues; they are forced by government to
+attend to the labour, and are obliged to accept two thirds, and
+sometimes only half of the price that labour holds in the
+country.</p>
+
+<p>We are left without precise news from the seat of the war which
+Ibrahim Pasha, the son of Mohammed Aly, conducts in the Hedjaz
+against the Wahabi. Until within the last two months, he had not
+pushed on farther than Hanakye, a station three days journeys in
+advance of Medina, towards the interior of the Wahabi country. He
+is reported to have obtained several advantages over small corps of
+the enemy, and to have defeated them even in a more important
+battle, but his success appears not to have been decisive, as he
+has not advanced. Meantime reinforcements are continually sent to
+Arabia. Three Frenchmen who are in the suite of Ibrahim<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxxvi">[lxxxvi]</span> Pasha, have written
+lamentable letters to Cairo, stating that they were one night
+robbed of their whole baggage, and left in their shirts, while
+sleeping in a tent adjoining to that of the Pasha, whose military
+chest was carried off on the same occasion. A frigate is building
+at this moment at Bombay, for Mohammed Aly, with which he intends
+to harass his enemy in the Persian gulf; and to protect his
+commerce in the Red Sea which he daily extends, and from which he
+will succeed to shut out in a short time all private adventurers
+from Egypt and the Hedjaz.</p>
+
+<p><em>5th of June.</em> I have sent off by this opportunity, a
+packet to Mr. Hamilton, containing a collection of popular sayings
+of the Arabs of Cairo, written in the vulgar dialect of the city.
+Captain Gambier, of the Myrmidon, who has come here for a few days,
+and who departs immediately for Malta, has promised to forward both
+packets from thence. I hope that within a few weeks, the colossal
+head will also be embarked at Alexandria.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the Hadj of the year 1817, among the pilgrims collected at
+Mekka from every part of the Mussulman world, was a party of
+Moggrebyns, or western Africans, who were expected to return home
+as usual, by the way of Cairo and the Fezzan; it was believed that
+the caravan would take its departure from Egypt in the month of
+December. As Mr. Burckhardt had now transmitted to England the last
+of his papers relating to his former journeys, it was with the
+utmost satisfaction, that he contemplated the prospect, which at
+length so opportunely offered, of putting the great purpose of his
+mission into execution. Feeling strongly armed, in his long
+previous course of study and experience, he entertained hopes, not
+more sanguine, than reasonable, of being able to penetrate in
+safety from Fezzan to the countries of the Niger; and of at last
+receiving the reward of his long perseverance, in the acquirement
+for the public of some authentic information, upon the unknown
+regions of Africa. But the Divine Providence ordained otherwise. On
+the 4th of October, he found the symptoms of dysentery, which had
+for several days incommoded him, so much encreased, that he applied
+for relief to Dr. Richardson, an English<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxxvii">[lxxxvii]</span> physician, who fortunately happened
+at that time to be at Cairo, travelling in the company of Lord
+Belmore. Thus it is a satisfaction to know, that our lamented
+traveller, in his last illness, had as good advice and assistance
+as medicine could supply. The disease however, in spite of all the
+remedies administered, continued its progress from bad to worse,
+with fatal obstinacy, and without any favourable remission. On the
+morning of the 15th, conscious of his danger, he proposed and
+obtained the consent of his physician, that Mr. Salt, His Majesty’s
+Consul General, should be sent for. “I went over immediately,” says
+Mr. Salt, in a letter to the Secretary of the Association, “and
+cannot describe how shocked I was, to see the change which had
+taken place in so short a time. On the Tuesday before, he had been
+walking in my garden with every appearance of health, and
+conversing with his usual liveliness and vigour; now he could
+scarcely articulate his words, often made use of one for another,
+was of a ghastly hue, and had all the appearance of approaching
+death. Yet he perfectly retained his senses, and was surprisingly
+firm and collected. He desired that I would take pen and paper, and
+write down what he should dictate. The following is nearly word for
+word what he said: ‘If I should now die, I wish you to draw upon
+Mr. Hamilton for two hundred and fifty pounds, for money due to me
+from the Association, and together with what I have in the hands of
+Mr. Boghoz, (two thousand piastres), ‘make the following
+disposition of it. Pay up my share of the Memnon head,’ (this he
+afterwards repeated, as if afraid that I should think he had
+already contributed enough, as I had once hinted to him). ‘Give two
+thousand piastres to Osman’ (an Englishman, whom at Shikh
+Ibrahim’s<a id="FNanchor_17"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_17">[17]</a>
+particular<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxxviii">[lxxxviii]</span> request, I had persuaded the
+Pasha to release from slavery). ‘Give four hundred piastres to
+Shaharti my servant. Let my male and female slaves, and whatever I
+have in the house, which is little, go to Osman. Send one thousand
+piastres to the poor at Zurich. Let my whole library, with the
+exception of my European books, go to the University of Cambridge,
+to the care of Dr. Clarke, the librarian; comprising also the
+manuscripts in the hands of Sir Joseph Banks. My European books’
+(they were only eight in number) ‘I leave to you’ (Mr. Salt). ‘Of
+my papers make such a selection as you think fit, and send them to
+Mr. Hamilton for the African Association; there is nothing on
+Africa. I was starting in two months time with the caravan
+returning from Mekka, and going to Fezzan, thence to Tombuctou, but
+it is otherwise disposed. For my affairs in Europe, Mr. Rapp has my
+will.<a id="FNanchor_18"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_18">[18]</a> Give my love to my
+friends,’ (enumerating several persons, with whom he was living
+upon terms of intimacy at Cairo). ‘Write to Mr. Barker.’—(He then
+paused, and seemed troubled, and at length with great exertion
+said,) ‘Let Mr. Hamilton acquaint my mother with my death, and say
+that my last thoughts have been with her.’ (This subject he had
+evidently kept back, as not trusting himself with the mention of it
+until the last). ‘The Turks,’ he added, ‘will take my body, I know
+it, perhaps you had better let them.’—When I tell you that he lived
+only six hours after this conversation, you will easily conceive
+what an effort it must have been. The expression of his countenance
+when he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_lxxxix">[lxxxix]</span>
+noticed his intended journey, was an evident struggle between
+disappointed hopes, and manly resignation. Less of the weakness of
+human nature was perhaps never exhibited upon a death bed. Dr.
+Richardson and Osman, who has for some time lived with him, were
+both present at this conversation. He ended by expressing a wish
+that I should retire, and shook my hand at parting as taking a
+final leave. So unhappily it proved; he died at a quarter before
+twelve the same night, without a groan. The funeral, as he desired,
+was Mohammedan, conducted with all proper regard to the respectable
+rank which he had held in the eyes of the natives. Upon this point
+I had no difficulty in deciding, after his own expression on the
+subject. The Arabic manuscripts for the University of Cambridge are
+in a large chest, and shall be forwarded by the first safe
+opportunity, together with his papers, which are few, and appear to
+be chiefly copies of what I believe him to have already
+transmitted.”</p>
+
+<p>To those who have perused the preceding extracts from Mr.
+Burckhardt’s correspondence, it will be almost superfluous to add
+any remarks upon his character. As a traveller, he possessed
+talents and acquirements, which were rendered doubly useful, by his
+qualities as a man. To the fortitude and ardour of mind, which had
+stimulated him to devote his life to the advancement of science, in
+the paths of geographical discovery, he joined a temper and
+prudence, well calculated to ensure his triumph over every
+difficulty. His liberality and high principles of honour, his
+admiration of those generous qualities in others, his detestation
+of injustice and fraud, his disinterestedness and keen sense of
+gratitude<a id="FNanchor_19"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_19">[19]</a>
+were no less remarkable, than his warmth of heart and
+active<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xc">[xc]</span> benevolence,
+which he often exercised towards persons in distress, to the great
+prejudice of his limited means. No stronger example can easily be
+given of sensibility united with greatness of mind, than the
+feelings which he evinced on his death bed, when his mother’s name,
+and the failure of the great object of his travels, were the only
+subjects upon which he could not speak without hesitation. By the
+African Association his loss is severely felt, nor can they easily
+hope to supply the place of one whom birth, education, genius, and
+industry, conspired to render well adapted to whatever great
+enterprize his fortitude and honourable ambition might have
+prompted him to undertake. The strongest testimony of their
+approbation of his zealous services is due from his employers, to
+their late regretted traveller; but it is from the public and from
+posterity, that his memory will receive its due reward of fame; for
+it cannot be doubted that his name will be held in honourable
+remembrance, as long as any credit is given to those who have
+fallen in the cause of science.</p>
+
+<p>Although the journeys of Mr. Burckhardt in the parts of Africa,
+to the southward of Egypt, together with the oral information which
+he obtained, relative to the interior regions situated to the
+westward of those countries, are the only parts of his transmitted
+papers, which belong in strictness to the objects of an Association
+for promoting the discovery of the interior parts of Africa; yet
+his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xci">[xci]</span> remarks upon
+several parts of Syria, the Holy Land, and Arabia, are so replete
+with new and accurate information, that the Association cannot
+think itself justified in withholding them from the public. His
+travels in Nubia, and all his information upon the north-eastern
+parts of Africa, have therefore been selected for a first volume,
+and it is in the contemplation of the Association, to continue the
+publication of his remarks upon the other countries described by
+him, in the order of precedence to which they shall appear to be
+entitled, by the novelty or importance of their matter.</p>
+
+<p>There remains only one observation to be made by the member of
+the Committee, upon whom has devolved the task of editing the
+present volume. Although Mr. Burckhardt was gifted by nature with
+sagacity and memory for making accurate observations, and with
+taste and imagination to give a lively description of them, it must
+not be forgotten, that he wrote in a language which was not his
+native tongue, which he did not learn until he was twenty-five
+years of age, and in the writing of which he had little exercise,
+until he had arrived in those countries, where he very seldom heard
+it spoken, and where he had still more rarely any opportunities of
+referring to English models of composition. When, in addition to
+these great disadvantages, it is considered that the journal which
+forms the contents of this volume, was only once transcribed from
+his collection of daily notes, and was written, as the traveller
+himself states, in the corner of an open court, by the side of his
+camels, under the influence of the hot winds of the Desert, and
+under the sufferings of an ophthalmia, the reader will easily
+believe that the Editor has found it necessary to make some
+alterations in the diction of the original manuscript. Some changes
+of arrangement have also been occasionally required, in order to
+bring together dispersed observations upon the same subject, which,
+having been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xcii">[xcii]</span>
+noticed as they occurred, are, as usual in the first transcription
+of a traveller’s journal, found in such a desultory and unconnected
+state, as could not be agreeable to the reader. In these attempts
+of the Editor to present the work to the public in a more
+perspicuous form, it has at the same time been his most studious
+endeavour to make as few changes as possible; for he would much
+rather expose himself to the imputation of having left passages
+liable to be criticized for inelegance and an idiom not English,
+than to that of having, in the remotest manner, injured the spirit
+and originality of the Author’s thoughts and expressions, by an
+ill-judged attempt to polish or correct them.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftc1">
+<p class="fthead">FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>Bomba was a Greek colony under the name of
+Plateia. It was the first possession of the Greeks on the coast of
+Africa. (Herodot. 1. 4. c. 151.)</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a>This Tripoli is distinguished from the city
+of which my fellow traveller is a native, by the appellation of
+Tarabolaus fel Shark, or Tripoli of the East.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a>This letter is addressed to Sir Joseph
+Banks.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a>Another part of the nation of the Aenezy, who
+live in the Nedjd, are faithful Wahabi, and their chief Ibn
+Haddali, is the third in command and esteem amongst that sect.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a>They have not been published, and it is
+feared the greater part of his manuscripts are lost.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a>No description of this journey of Mr.
+Burckhardt ever reached the Association. His epistolary sketch of
+it was lost on its way to England: and it seems probable, from the
+following extract of a letter from Mr. Barker of Aleppo, to the
+editor, (dated London, 4th September, 1819,) that no journal was
+ever kept. <em>Extract.</em>—“One hundred and twenty or one hundred
+and fifty miles, below the ruins of Membigeh in the Zor, there is a
+tract on the banks of the Euphrates, possessed by a tribe of very
+savage Arabs. Not far from them is the village of Sukhne, at the
+distance of five days from Aleppo, and of twelve hours from
+Palmyra, in the road which Zenobia in her flight took to gain the
+Euphrates. The people of Sukhne are sedentary Arabs, of a breed
+half Fellah and half Bedouin. They bring to Aleppo alkali and
+ostrich feathers. It was upon one of these visits of the Sheikh of
+Sukhne to Aleppo, that Burckhardt, after some negotiation, resolved
+to accept the protection of the Sheikh, who undertook, upon their
+arrival at his village, to place him under the care of a Bedouin of
+influence, sufficient to procure him a safe passage through the
+tribes of the country which he wished to explore. Burckhardt had
+reason to be satisfied both with the Sheikh of Sukhne and with the
+Arab whom he procured as an escort, except that in the end, the
+protection of the latter proved insufficient. The consequence was,
+that poor Burckhardt was stript to the skin, and he returned to
+Sukhne, his body blistered with the rays of the sun, and without
+having accomplished any of the objects of his journey. It was in
+this excursion to the desert, that Burckhardt had so hard a
+struggle with an Arab lady, who took a fancy to the only garment
+which the delicacy or compassion of the men had left him.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a>For these names see <em>Numbers,</em> c. 21,
+32.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a>Twat is a country surrounded by the Great
+Desert, in the road from Fezzan to Timbuctou.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a>The Danish scientific mission to Arabia in
+the year 1761, consisted of five persons. Niebuhr was the only one
+who returned to Copenhagen.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a>The Bahr el Azrak, or Blue river, is called
+Bahr el Akhdar by Makrizi, the Arabian historian.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a><span class="arabic" lang="ar">قُرنه</span>,
+This word means “Corner,” as being at the north-west angle of the
+mountain, where it takes a more eastern direction.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a>Pococke has led travellers into error by
+calling this place Medinet Abou, “the city of the father.” If such
+had been the meaning of the name, it would have been Medinet el Ab.
+But, in fact, Habou was, according to tradition, an ancient king,
+of whom many wonderful stories are told; and it is the firm belief
+of the natives, that the object of the French expedition was to
+find out the treasures of Habou. The Arabs, who inhabit Thebes and
+the adjacent country, are originally Moggrebyns.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a>Luxor is abbreviated from El Aksor
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الاقصر</span>), an ancient plural
+of Qaszer (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قصر</span>), which is not
+to be confounded with Kasser (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كسر</span>), a word meaning <em>ruins</em> generally. I have
+added the explanations of these names, because I believe them to be
+new, and know them to be accurate. The present Memnonium is now
+called Qaszer el Dekaky. Dekaky (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دقاقي</span>), the prince who is said to have built it, had,
+according to tradition, the largest of the broken colossi erected
+to his honour.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a>Addressed to Mr. Hamilton.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a>Terrick Hamilton, Esq. who has since
+published the translation of a part of Osmay’s work.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a>Addressed to Sir Joseph Banks.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a>From the time of his departure from Aleppo,
+Mr. Burckhardt had continued to pass by this name.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a>This refers to a will made previous to his
+departure from England, according to which, in case he had advanced
+into the interior of Africa, and was not heard of by the 1st of
+January, 1820, he was to be considered as dead. By this will, after
+shewing his gratitude to a relation, to whom he had been indebted
+while at Leipzig, he appointed his mother residuary legatee for all
+sums which might accrue to him, from his engagements with the
+African Association.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a>His present to the University of Cambridge,
+of the choicest collection of Arabic manuscripts in Europe, was
+intended as a mark of his gratitude, for the literary benefits, and
+the kind attention which he received at Cambridge, when preparing
+himself for his travels. Of his disregard of pecuniary matters, and
+his generous feeling towards those who were dear to him, a single
+example will be sufficient. His father having bequeathed at his
+death about ten thousand pounds, to be divided into five equal
+parts, one to his widow, and one to each of his children, Lewis
+Burckhardt immediately gave up his portion, to increase that of his
+mother. If, he said, I perish in my present undertaking, the money
+will be where it ought to be; if I return to England, my employers
+will undoubtedly find me some means of subsistence.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="page">
+<div class="map2-box">
+<div class="box-float">
+<div class="figcenter iwmap2">
+<figure class="iwmap2" id="map2">
+<p><span class="sc">Burckhardt’s Travels.</span>
+</p>
+<p class="vsmall right"><em>To face page 1</em></p>
+<p class="map-title">Map<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<em>of the</em><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<span class="sc">Course</span> of the <span class="sc">Nile</span><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<em>from</em><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<em>ASSOUAN to the Confines of DONGOLA.</em></p>
+<img alt="" src="images/map2.jpg" id="img_images_map2.jpg">
+<table class="width-full">
+<tbody><tr>
+<td class="tdl vsmall"><em>W. M. L. del<sup>t</sup>.</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdc vsmall"><em>Published as the Act directs,
+1<sup>st</sup> Dec<sup>r</sup>, 1819, by John Murray Albemarle
+Street London.</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr vsmall"><em>J. Walker Sculpt.</em>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody></table>
+
+<p><a href="images/map2_large.jpg" id="id-5971043174599703439"><span class="med">(<em>Large-size</em>)</span></a>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="less map-comment space-above">
+<p>This Map has been constructed solely from the Journals of
+M<sup>r</sup>. Burckhardt in the parts above Ibrim: below Seboua
+the bearings of the windings of the River, as taken by
+Mess<sup>rs</sup>. Legh and Smelt were of some assistance. The
+Latitude and Longitude of Syene and Philæ are certain, having been
+observed by the French Astronomer Nouet; for the rest we are guided
+solely by bearings and distances: future travellers therefore will
+contribute easily and essentially to the correction of this part of
+African Geography, by a few observations of Latitude on the parts
+of the Nile here delineated.</p>
+
+<p class="right">W. M. Leake.</p>
+
+<p class="space-above3">It may be inferred from the account which
+Herodotus has given of the Island Tachompso, the lake near it
+&amp;c. that the Greeks had very little correct information
+regarding the country above Syene, for no such island or lake now
+exists, nor is there any appearance or probability of its having
+ever existed.</p>
+
+<p>The Greek Inscription on the temple of Debod copied by
+Mess<sup>rs</sup>. Hamilton and Leake in 1802 and another at Dakke,
+are the only ones so old as the time of the Ptolemies: all the
+others are of the Roman Empire &amp; some of Christian Times.</p>
+
+<p>The following are the names &amp; distances of the
+anc<sup>t</sup>. places above Philæ, as given in the Itinerary of
+Antoninus</p>
+
+<table class="map-comment">
+<tbody><tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>M. P.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>From</td>
+<td class="tdl">Contra Syene to Parembole</td>
+<td>16</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">Tzitzi</td>
+<td>2</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">Taphis</td>
+<td>14</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">Talmis</td>
+<td>8</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">Tutzis</td>
+<td>20</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">Pselcis</td>
+<td>12</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">Corte</td>
+<td>4</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdl">Hyero-Sycaminon</td>
+<td>4</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody></table>
+
+<p class="nind">The modern names Tafa and Korti and the relative distances of
+the principal ruins leave little doubt of the Site of all the above
+places. The entire District was called Dodescaschœnus by the Greeks
+&amp; Romans on account of its length. Making use of the Thebaic
+Schœne of 60 Stades (Strabo L. 17. p. 804.) and taking the English
+Mile at 8½ Stades, twelve Schœnes will be found to correspond very
+accurately with the actual distance from Assouan to Mahárraka
+measured along the stream.</p>
+
+<p>The first accurate knowledge of the country beyond the
+Dodecaschœnus seems to have been obtained by the military
+expedition commanded by Petronius in the reign of Augustus.</p>
+
+<p>Strabo, who travelled in Egypt shortly afterwards has left us
+an authentic account of it. He describes the Æthiopians to have
+been armed (nearly as the Bisharye now are) with shields, axes,
+spears, and swords. Petronius having defeated them in the field, took
+Pselca, and from thence, having crossed the sands, which in a more
+remote age had proved fatal to Cambyses, he advanced to Premnis, a
+strong position. He then marched against Napata, the capital of
+Queen Candace, took and destroyed it, and returning to Premnis
+fortified that place. Here the Roman Garrison was soon attacked by
+Candace, and opportunely relieved by Petronius. Pliny speaking of
+these occurrences says “Oppida expugnavit (Petronius) quæ sola
+invenerat, quo dicemus ordine, Pselcin, Primin, Aboccin, Phthurin,
+Cambusin, Attenan, Stadisin, ubi Nilus præcipitans sese fragore
+auditum accolis aufert. Diripuit et Napata. Longissimi a Syene
+progressus 870 M. Passus.”</p>
+
+<p>Pliny also gives the distance from Syene to Meroe, as reported
+by some <span class="underline">exploratores</span> sent there
+expressly by Nero, but among the names there are only two of the
+places above mentioned, viz. Hierosycaminon, 54 M. P. and Napata
+524 M. P. from Syene. Little illustration is derived from Ptolemy,
+who names some of the places mentioned by Pliny but not in the same
+order. On the Western bank above Pselcis, he has Phthur, Abuncis,
+and Cambysis Ærarium.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[1]</span><a id="c2"></a><span class="large letter-spaced02">JOURNEY</span><br>
+<span class="small">ALONG</span><br>
+<span class="large letter-spaced word-spaced4">THE BANKS OF THE
+NILE.</span>
+</h2>
+
+<h3><span class="word-spaced2">FROM ASSOUAN TO MAHASS, ON THE
+FRONTIERS OF</span><br>
+DONGOLA.</h3>
+
+<hr class="decordb width15">
+
+<p class="drop-cap space-above3">A<span class="sc">fter</span>
+having visited most of the celebrated ruins in the valley of the
+Nile, I arrived at Assouan on the 22d of February, 1813, being
+actuated by a strong desire of continuing my journey up the river,
+as far as I should be able to do it, without exposing myself to
+imminent danger. During a week’s stay at Esne, the last town of
+note in Upper Egypt, I had collected a good deal of information
+concerning the state of Nubia, and had taken my measures
+accordingly. Amongst other arrangements, it became necessary for me
+to purchase a pair of good dromedaries, one for myself, and another
+for the guides, whom I might hire at the several places I should
+pass through in Nubia;<a id="FNanchor_20"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_20">[1]</a> I
+therefore sold the two asses, which had carried me from Cairo to
+Esne, and bought, for about 22<em>l.</em>, two dromedaries which
+proved upon trial, to be excellent animals; for during a journey of
+thirty-five days, from Assouan to Mahass, and back again, I allowed
+them only one day’s rest, and generally rode them ten hours per
+day. There is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[2]</span> a market
+for camels in Esne, famous all over Egypt, from being frequented by
+the Arabs Bisharye and Ababde, who possess the best breed of camels
+in these parts of Africa. The Turkish governor of Esne, Hassan Beg,
+a native of Cyprus, furnished me, at my request, with a strong
+letter of recommendation to the three brothers, sons of Soleyman
+Kashef, who at present govern Nubia: and it was hoped that the
+increasing power of Mohammed Aly, the Pasha of Egypt, would render
+such a letter from one of his principal officers, of some weight. I
+had, besides, a firman from the Pasha himself, but as it was
+written in Turkish, which nobody reads in Nubia, and of a general
+nature, I placed little reliance upon it, further than as it
+contained among other names, those of the castle of Ibrim, and of
+its governor, which might be distinguished even by an Arab reader.
+The letter upon which I principally founded my hopes of success,
+was from the house of Habater, the principal merchants in Esne, to
+whom I had been recommended by a friend at Cairo. The Habater have
+almost monopolized the Nubian trade in dates; they act as the
+chargés d’affaires of the Nubian princes in all their political
+transactions with Egypt, and being also Sherifs, or descendants of
+the Prophet, and men of large fortunes, they enjoy great credit,
+and their recommendation may be useful to travellers and merchants
+in the whole route up the Nile, as far as Sennaar.</p>
+
+<p>After an easy journey of four days from Esne, I reached Assouan,
+the most romantic spot in Egypt, but little deserving the lofty
+praises which some travellers have bestowed on it for its
+antiquities, and those of the neighbouring island of Elephantine.
+Hassan Beg, of Esne, had given me a letter to the Aga of Assouan,
+to whom I applied for a guide to conduct me as far as Derr, where
+Hassan Kashef, one of the Nubian chiefs, resides: an old Arab, a
+native of Nubia, was soon found for this purpose, and after
+bargaining a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[3]</span> long
+while, I at last agreed to give him one Spanish dollar for his
+services to Derr, which was considered an ample payment for a
+journey of 140 miles. I left at Assouan my servant, with the little
+baggage I had; and after purchasing some provisions, started, with
+my guide, on the 24th of February, carrying nothing with me but my
+gun, sabre, and pistol, a provision bag, and a woollen mantle
+(Heram) of Moggrebyn manufacture, which served either for a carpet,
+or a covering during the night. I was dressed in the Thabaut, or
+blue gown, of the merchants of Upper Egypt, having quitted my
+common Turkish travelling dress at Esne. After estimating the
+expenses which I was likely to incur in Nubia, I put eight Spanish
+dollars into my purse, in conformity with the principle I have
+constantly acted upon during my travels, namely, that the less the
+traveller spends while on his march, and the less money he carries
+with him, the less likely are his travelling projects to miscarry.
+After a journey of 450 miles up the Nile, from Assouan, and the
+same distance down again, I returned with three dollars, having
+spent about five dollars, including every expense, except the
+present to Hassan Kashef.<a id="FNanchor_21"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_21">[2]</a>
+This must not be attributed to parsimony; I mention it here as a
+part of my plan of travelling,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[4]</span> and by way of advice to all travellers who
+visit unknown and dangerous countries in the East.</p>
+
+<p><em>February 24th,</em> 1813. I left Assouan at noon, and
+proceeded by the tombs of the ancient Saracen town of Assouan, on
+the east side of the hill where the French under Desaix raised a
+bastion. A high brick tower, dedicated to the memory of the Turkish
+saint, Shikh Wanes (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شيخ
+وانس</span>), stands near it. The Turkish sepulchres cover a space
+of nearly three miles in circumference. Here a great number of
+highly esteemed saints are buried, whose tombs are visited by
+devotees from all parts of Egypt. The Cufic tombstones are
+innumerable, but the inscriptions upon them are not of a remote
+date: and the letters are badly shaped. Makrizi, the Egyptian
+historian, relates, that in the year 806 of the Mohammedan æra,
+21,000 persons died of the plague at Assouan; a fact by which we
+may estimate the importance of the town in those times. About one
+mile distant from the tombs begins the brick wall mentioned by
+Denon, called Hayt el Adjour (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حيط
+العجور</span>), which continues along the sandy plain between the
+granite rocks, as far as the neighbourhood of the island of Philæ.
+The inhabitants say that this wall was built by a king of the name
+of Adjour. I think it was intended as a defence against the inroads
+of the Bedouins of the eastern mountain, at the time when a brisk
+overland transport trade existed between Philæ and Syene. The
+natives say that it was originally<span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[5]</span> the embankment of a canal; and Norden is of
+opinion that in ancient times, the bed of the Nile was on this
+side. But this seems impossible, as the ground evidently rises from
+Philæ towards Assouan. On the granite rocks along the road,
+hieroglyphic inscriptions are met with, which increase in numbers
+as we approach the island. There are also some illegible Greek
+inscriptions, which probably once recorded the names of curious
+Greek travellers. There is another and longer road from Assouan to
+Philæ, along the side of the river, by the Cataract.</p>
+
+<p>After riding about four miles from Assouan, we reached an open
+plain, free from rocks, on the west side of which the river flows:
+here the ruins of the island of Philæ (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">انَس الوجود</span>), Anas el Wodjoud<a id="FNanchor_22"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_22">[3]</a>) presented themselves to my view. As there
+was no vessel at hand to convey me over to the island, and knowing
+that I should pass this way on my return to Assouan, I did not stop
+any longer than was necessary to look at the granite rocks, on the
+banks of the river, where the famous seat, of which many travellers
+have given drawings, principally attracts notice. The small village
+opposite Philæ is called Birbe, and is the boundary of Egypt. The
+different hamlets, from hence down the river, as far as Assouan,
+form part of the territory of Birbe; which, in consequence of old
+firmans from the Porte, enjoys an entire exemption from all kinds
+of land tax. On the south side of Birbe commences the territory of
+the Nubian princes, to which Philæ belongs. The natives, in the
+invirons of the Cataract, are an independent race, and boast of the
+security which the nature of the ground affords to their homes;
+many of them inhabit the islands, and support their families
+principally by fishing in the river.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[6]</span>At the time of my
+visit, the Nubians belonging to Assouan were at war with their
+southern neighbours, occasioned by the latter having intercepted a
+vessel laden with dates, knowing it to belong to a merchant of
+Assouan. A battle had been fought opposite Philæ, a few days before
+my arrival, in which a pregnant woman was killed by a stone; for
+whenever the Nubians are engaged in skirmishes, their women join
+the party, and furiously attack each other, armed with slings. The
+southern party, to whom the deceased belonged, was now demanding
+from their enemies the debt of blood, not only of the woman, but of
+the child also, which she bore in her womb at the time of her
+death. This the latter refused to pay, and being the weaker in
+numbers, and there being no garrison at Assouan to support them,
+the men thought proper to retire from the field; they abandoned the
+villages nearest to Philæ, leaving only their women and female
+children, and retired with the males to Assouan. On my return from
+Mahass, peace had not yet been restored; the Nubians were still at
+Assouan, where a caravan of women arrived daily, with provisions
+for their husbands.</p>
+
+<p>We recrossed the before mentioned plain, opposite the island,
+where I observed numerous fragments of pottery, and then ascended
+the mountain to the south of it, there being no road fit for camels
+by the side of the river. We traversed the deep valleys of this
+mountain for about two hours. The rocks present an endless variety
+of granite, among which a rose-coloured species is particularly
+beautiful. Sienite, and red feldspath, together with granite,
+compose this chain. We afterwards descended again to the side of
+the river, near one of the small hamlets which compose the district
+of Shamet el Wah (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شعامة
+الواح</span>). The bed of the river here is free from rocks and
+islands, but its banks, on both sides, are so narrow, that there is
+hardly a hundred yards of cultivable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[7]</span> ground. Half an hour farther, we reached the
+village of Sak el Djemel (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ساق
+الجمل</span>), belonging to the district called Wady Debot, and
+alighted at the Shikh’s house, where we passed the night. Here I
+first tasted the country dish which, during a journey of five
+weeks, became my constant food; thin, unleavened, and slightly
+baked cakes of Dhourra, served up with sweet or sour milk. From the
+Dhourra being badly ground, this food is very coarse, and nothing
+but absolute hunger could have tempted me to taste it.</p>
+
+<p><em>February 25.</em> I continued along the east bank of the
+river. The road the whole of the way to Derr is perfectly safe,
+provided one of the natives accompanies the traveller. I every
+where found the people to be possessed of a degree of curiosity
+which I had never met with before. Whenever we passed a village,
+often at a full trot, the men came running out of their houses, and
+across the fields, to ask my guide who I was, and what was the
+object of my journey. The answer was, that I was sent from Esne to
+Derr, with letters from the governor to the Nubian chiefs. They
+would then enquire after the contents of the letters, and, that
+they might do this more at their ease, would press me to alight,
+and breakfast with them. One hour and a half brought us to Wady
+Syale (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي سياله</span>). Two hours
+and a half, Wady Abdoun (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي
+عبدون</span>). Four hours, Wady Dehmyt, (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي دهميت</span>). All the villages, as far as Dóngola, are
+called <em>Wady</em>, or valley. There are always three or four of
+them comprised under one general name: thus, Wady Dehmyt extends
+about four miles along the bank of the river, and includes upwards
+of half a dozen hamlets, each of which has its particular name.
+Travellers, therefore, who note down the names of villages in these
+parts, will easily be led into mistakes, by confounding the
+collective appellation with that of the single hamlet. There are
+few large villages; but groups of five or six houses are met with
+wherever<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[8]</span> a few palm
+trees grow on the banks of the stream, or wherever the breadth of
+the soil is sufficient to admit of cultivation.</p>
+
+<p>I found Daoud Kashef, the son of Hosseyn Kashef, encamped with a
+party of men at Dehmyt, in huts constructed of Dhourra<a id="FNanchor_23"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_23">[4]</a> stalks. I alighted at his own hut, and
+breakfasted there, informing him, that I was sent on business to
+his father and uncles. The governors of Nubia are continually
+moving from one part of their dominions to another, to collect the
+tribute from their subjects, and are always accompanied by a guard
+of forty or fifty men, in order to levy it by force, wherever
+necessary, and to be the better able to commit depredations. On the
+night preceding my arrival at Dehmyt, a Nubian came to me at Sak el
+Djemel, to complain of Daoud’s tyranny; it had been reported to the
+latter, that this man, with his family, was secretly indulging in
+bread made from wheat, a sufficient proof of great wealth. Daoud’s
+people, in consequence, surrounded his house during the night, and
+demanded from him a camel, as a present to their master: on his
+refusal to comply, they attacked the house; and as the owner had no
+near neighbours, he in vain attempted to defend himself: he was
+severely wounded, and the whole of his property fell a prey to the
+aggressors. Daoud was but poorly equipped; he was dressed in the
+common white shirt of the country. He asked me for some
+gunpowder,<a id="FNanchor_24"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_24">[5]</a>
+and, on my telling him that the supply I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[9]</span> had of that article was scarcely sufficient for
+myself, he did not appear at all offended by the refusal. Several
+hundred peasants were assembled round the camp, with herds of cows
+and sheep, with which they pay their land tax.</p>
+
+<p>We quitted Dehmyt, and in five hours from our departure from
+Wady Debot, reached Wady Kardassy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي كرداسه</span>), where I passed the ruin of a small
+temple, of which one corner of the wall only remains standing. I
+saw no fragments of columns; but, on some of the stones which lay
+scattered about, hieroglyphic figures are sculptured; and the
+winged globe appears upon several of them. On the west side of the
+river, opposite to this place, is a large ruin. My guide told me,
+that, at a long day’s journey from hence, in the eastern mountain,
+are the ruins of a city called Kamle. In five hours and a half, we
+came to Djama (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جمع</span>); and in
+six hours, to Tafa (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تافه</span>);
+the villages so named lying on both sides of the river. The plain
+between the banks of the river and the foot of the mountain is
+about a quarter of a mile in breadth. Here are the ruins of two
+buildings, standing near each other, of which nothing now remains
+but the foundations; they are constructed of sand-stone, in a very
+rude manner, and are about forty feet square. There are no
+fragments of columns, nor of sculptured stones of any kind. There
+are also some ruins on the opposite side. These are undoubtedly the
+remains of <em>Taphis</em> and <em>Contra Taphis</em>.<a id="FNanchor_25"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_25">[6]</a> Immediately to the south of the ruins, the
+mountains on both sides of the river prevent all passage along its
+banks; the road, in consequence, lies, for one hour, across the
+mountain, which I again found to be composed of rocks of granite.
+The granite chain had been uninterrupted from Assouan to Dehmyt. To
+the south of Dehmyt, the mountain which borders the river is
+composed of sand-stone, and continues thus<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[10]</span> as far as the second Cataract, at Wady Halfa,
+with the exception only of the granite rocks above Tafa, which
+extend as far as Kalabshe.</p>
+
+<p>We descended again to the bank of the river in one hour, and
+passed the village of Darmout (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">درموت</span>), built partly upon a rocky island, and partly
+upon the high rocks of the eastern shore. The effect of the evening
+sun upon the black granite islands, surrounded by the
+pure<a id="FNanchor_26"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_26">[7]</a> stream, and the verdant
+banks, was very beautiful. From hence to Tafa the river is studded
+with numerous islands. Seven hours and three quarters brought us to
+El Kalabshe (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">القلابشه</span>), the
+largest Wady, or assemblage of villages, we had yet passed.
+Although the plain is very narrow, there are nevertheless
+considerable mounds of rubbish and broken pottery, along the foot
+of the mountain, indicating the site of an ancient town; and as
+there is a large ruin opposite to this place, on the western
+bank,<a id="FNanchor_27"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_27">[8]</a> we may safely conjecture
+these to be <em>Talmis</em> and <em>Contra Talmis</em>. There are
+no remains of any edifice on the eastern side. The two hundred
+houses which compose the village on that bank occupy a space of
+about half an hour in length. In eight hours and a half we came to
+El Shekeyk (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الشقيق</span>); in eight
+hours and three quarters, to Abou Hor (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابو هور</span>). In the course of this day, I passed several
+beds of torrents. When the rains are copious in the mountain,
+torrents occasionally rush down into the river, but they never
+continue longer than two days. These torrents account for the
+<em>momentary</em> increase of the Nile in Egypt, during the
+winter, when the river is at its lowest. Throughout Nubia, rain
+never falls in the valley, some light showers excepted; but there
+is a regular rainy season in the eastern mountains, as far as Suez,
+which produces abundant<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[11]</span> crops of wild herbs, and pasturage for the
+cattle of the Bedouins who inhabit those districts. I had occasion
+to mention a similar phenomenon, in my former Journals, in the
+mountains of Eastern Palestine. In the Ghor, or valley of the
+Jordan, rain seldom falls, while the mountains on either side have
+their regular rainy season. Our host at Abou Hor served us this
+evening with the dish called Asyde, which consists of the green
+ears of barley boiled in water, and mixed with milk.</p>
+
+<p><em>Feb. 26th.</em> The Wady Abou Hor is about three quarters of
+an hour in length. After a ride of two hours we passed the village
+Dandour (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دندور</span>); three hours
+and a half, Wady Abyadh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي
+ابيض</span>) the plain still continuing very narrow. In order to
+gain some soil from the river, the ancient inhabitants of Nubia had
+erected numerous piers or jetties of stone, extending for twenty or
+thirty yards into the river; which, by breaking the force of the
+stream, would leave, on their northern side, a small extent of land
+free from water. Many of the piers still remain, but in a decayed
+state. I generally observed, on the western side of the river, a
+similar structure, exactly opposite to that on the eastern. In four
+hours and a half, Merye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مريه</span>); five hours, Gyrshe (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كرشه</span>). I passed the ruins of an ancient town, probably
+Saracen, built partly of bricks, and partly of small stones. The
+natives say that a king of the name of Dabagora reigned here. The
+plain at Gyrshe is broader than I had any where yet seen it, to the
+south of Assouan, being about a mile. Like all the villages I had
+hitherto passed, Gyrshe is but poorly inhabited, two-thirds of the
+houses being abandoned. The country had been ruined by the
+Mamelouks, who remained here several months, when on their retreat
+before the Turkish troops of Mohammed Aly; and the little they left
+behind was consumed by the Turks under Ibrahim Beg, Mohammed Aly’s
+son, who finally succeeded in driving the Mamelouks out of Nubia,
+and across<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[12]</span> the
+mountains, into the plains of Dongola. A terrible famine broke out
+after their retreat, in which one-third of the population of Nubia
+perished through absolute want; the remainder retired into Egypt,
+and settled in the villages between Assouan and Esne, where numbers
+of them were carried off by the small-pox. The present inhabitants
+had returned only a few months before my visit to these parts, and
+had begun to sow the fields after the inundation had subsided; but
+many of their brethren still continued in Egypt. The great number
+of newly-dug graves which I observed near each village, were too
+convincing proofs of the truth of the melancholy accounts which the
+natives gave me.</p>
+
+<p>In six hours I came to Wady Kostamne (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قُستَمنه</span>), a well built village. Here the Mamelouks
+fought a battle with the troops of Ibrahim Beg, and were routed.
+They retreated to the eastern mountains, where they remained for
+several months, till their enemies retired to Assouan; when the
+greater part of the Begs descended to the banks of the Nile, and as
+the stream happened at that moment (May, 1812) to be extremely low,
+they crossed it at a ford near Kostamne,<a id="FNanchor_28"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_28">[9]</a> with all their women and baggage. Some of
+them continued their route southward along the western bank,
+plundering in their way all the villages of Derr, Wady Halfa,
+Sukkot, and Mahass; while the chief Begs, with their Mamelouks,
+made a short cut through the western desert; and the whole party
+united again on the banks of the Nile, near Argo, one of the
+principal places within the dominions of the King of
+Dongola;<a id="FNanchor_29"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_29">[10]</a> mustering in the whole
+about three hundred white Mamelouks,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[13]</span> and as many armed slaves, the wretched
+remains of upwards of four thousand, against whom Mohammed Aly had
+begun his contest for the possession of Egypt. The fate of about
+twelve hundred of them, who, with their chief, Shahin Beg, were
+treacherously slaughtered in the castle of Cairo, notwithstanding
+the most solemn promises of personal security had been given to
+them, is too well known to be repeated here; but a similar
+massacre, which took place at Esne, is less known, and may here be
+related, as serving to prove the stupidity and infatuation which
+have always presided over the councils of the Mamelouks. These
+fierce horsemen had sought refuge in the mountains inhabited by the
+Ababde and Bisharye Arabs, where all their horses died from want of
+food, and where even the richest Begs had been obliged to expend
+their last farthing, in order to feed their troops, provisions
+being sold to them by the Arabs at the most exorbitant prices. Thus
+cut off from all the comforts, and luxuries of Egypt, to which they
+had been accustomed from their infancy, Ibrahim Beg thought it a
+propitious moment to ensnare them, as his father had done their
+brethren at Cairo. With this design, he sent them the most solemn
+promises of safe conduct, if they would descend from the mountain,
+and pledged himself that they should be all placed in situations
+under the government of Mohammed Aly, corresponding with the rank
+which each individual then held amongst themselves. It will hardly
+be believed that, well acquainted as they were with the massacre at
+Cairo in the preceding year, more than four hundred Mamelouks,
+headed by several Begs, accepted the delusive offer, and descended
+in small parties from the mountains. They were stripped in the way
+by faithless guides, so that, with the exception of about thirty,
+the whole reached the camp of Ibrahim Beg, then near Esne, in a
+state of nakedness. After the different parties had all joined, and
+it was ascertained that no others were ready to follow them, the
+signal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[14]</span> of carnage was
+given, and the whole of them, with about two hundred black slaves,
+were unmercifully slaughtered in one night. Two French Mamelouks
+only were saved, through the interest of the physician of Ibrahim
+Beg. Similar instances of perfidy daily occur among the Turks; and
+it is matter of astonishment, that men should still be found stupid
+enough to allow themselves to be thus ensnared by them.</p>
+
+<p>Eight hours and a quarter brought us to Djebel Heyaty
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جبل حياتي</span>) eight hours and a
+half to Kobban (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قبّان</span>),
+opposite the fine temple of Dakke, which stands on the western
+bank.</p>
+
+<p><em>February 27.</em> Near Kobban are the remains of an ancient
+town, enclosed by a wall of bricks burnt in the sun, much
+resembling that of Eleithias, to the north of Edfou in Egypt. The
+length of the oblong square is about 150 paces, its breadth 100
+paces. The wall is upwards of 20 feet in thickness, and in several
+places more than 30 feet in height. Within its area are ruins of
+private habitations, partly constructed of stone, and partly of
+bricks. Some capitals of small columns of the Egyptian order lay
+about. On the S. E. corner of the wall, beyond its precincts, is
+the ruin of a very small Egyptian chapel, of a rude construction,
+with a few stones only remaining above the foundations. There are
+several hieroglyphic figures: a chariot sculptured on a stone
+indicates that a battle was represented. It appears that this
+enclosure, which stands close to the river, was meant as a castle.
+Large mounds of rubbish, the ruins of the ancient town, continue
+for about five minutes walk further. In one hour, I reached Oellaky
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">علاقي</span>), having passed, close
+to it, a broad canal: similar canals are met with in almost every
+part of Nubia, where the extent of the shore, and its height above
+the level of the river, rendered artificial irrigation necessary;
+but they are now no longer taken care of, and are gradually
+choaking up. The plain here is a mile in breadth. Oellaky has given
+its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[15]</span> name to a chain
+of mountains, which begins to the east of it, and runs quite across
+the high hills of the eastern desert, towards the shores of the Red
+Sea. If I am not mistaken, Bruce passed this chain. According to
+the reports of the natives, and the unanimous testimony of all the
+Arabian geographers, this mountain, called Djebel Oellaky, contains
+gold mines; I am inclined to believe, however, that the Bedouins,
+who alone wander about in those districts, and who must therefore
+be the authors of such reports, have mistaken yellow mica for gold;
+for the river carries down with it through the whole of Nubia a
+great deal of micaceous sand. Hassan Beg, the governor of Esne, who
+is fond of mineralogy, as far as it relates to precious stones and
+metals, had read in some book, of the mines of Oellaky; and being
+desirous to ascertain whether the report was true, sent four of his
+soldiers to escort a Greek, who pretends to a knowledge in stones,
+with an order to make researches in the mountain. They reached the
+village of Oellaky, and proceeded from thence about two hours to
+the eastward; but being frightened by a report that a large party
+of Mamelouks was descending from the mountain, they immediately
+returned, throwing the whole country into an alarm. I had met them
+at Dehmyt, when they earnestly pressed me to return with them,
+assuring me that the Mamelouks would certainly strike off my head,
+if they learnt that I was the bearer of letters from Hassan Beg.
+There was some truth in the report; for two Mamelouk Begs, Ibrahim
+Beg Djezayrly, and Osman Beg Bouhanes, who had remained in these
+mountains with the Arabs, after the departure of their companions
+for Dongola, in order to be as near at hand as possible, in the
+event of a change taking place in Egypt, had at last, with five of
+their women, and two servants only,<a id="FNanchor_30"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_30">[11]</a> been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[16]</span> obliged, through absolute want, to rejoin
+their brethren. All the money and valuables which they possessed
+had been extorted from them by the Arabs, as the price of
+provisions; their horses had died; their Mamelouks had deserted
+them; and their clothes and equipages were in rags; in this state,
+they abandoned for the present all ideas of the re-conquest of
+Egypt, and quitting their station near the shores of the Red Sea
+opposite Djidda, they took the road to Derr. The arrival of the
+Greek and the four soldiers above mentioned drove them back one
+day’s journey into the mountain, until their spies informed them of
+their departure; they then returned, and arrived at Derr one day
+before me.</p>
+
+<p>I travelled from two to three hours along a rocky shore,
+opposite the island Derar (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">درار</span>), which is well cultivated, and about three
+quarters of an hour in length. On the western bank is the village
+of Korty. From three to four hours the Wady Meharraka (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي محرّقه</span>) extends; and farther south,
+from four to five hours, the Wady Thyale (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي ثياله</span>). I had here the pleasure of falling in
+with two English travellers, Messrs. Legh and Smelt, and Captain
+Barthod, an American; I had already seen the two former at Cairo,
+and at Siout. They had left Cairo on board a country ship, two days
+after my departure from thence, and on reaching Assouan, had hired
+a large boat to carry them up to Derr, from whence they had visited
+Ibrim, being the first Europeans who had reached that place, and
+examined the antiquities between it and the island of Philӕ; for
+Norden saw them only through his telescope. I hailed their boat as
+I rode along the bank of the river, and we passed a few hours
+together, after which they pursued their course down to Assouan. In
+five hours and a half, I came to Wady<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[17]</span> Name (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي
+نعمه</span>); in six hours, Bareda (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بارده</span>); six and a half, Kokan (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قوكان</span>); here I saw a great number of crocodiles,
+the first I had seen since leaving Cairo, my road through Egypt
+having seldom been close along the river. Here also I observed
+stone piers in the river at several places. Seven hours and a half,
+Wady Nasrellab (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي
+نصرالاب</span>). South of Kokan, for two hours, the mountains come
+down so close to the river as to leave no space for a passage along
+its banks, and of course none for cultivation. We passed several
+beds of torrents. Eight hours and a half brought me to Wady Medyk
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي مديك</span>), where I
+slept.</p>
+
+<p><em>February 28th.</em> One hour from Wady Medyk is Wady Seboua
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي سبوع</span>), or the Lion’s
+Wady, so called from the figures of sphynxes with the bodies of
+lions, which stand before the ruined temple on the west side of the
+river, opposite to Seboua. This is the best cultivated part of the
+country which I met with, between Assouan and Derr. The inhabitants
+of Seboua, and those of Wady el Arab, to the south of them, are
+active merchants, and possessed of considerable wealth. They travel
+across the mountain to Berber (where Bruce’s Goos lies), eight days
+journies distant, and import from thence all the different articles
+of the Sennaar trade. This route is so perfectly secure that
+parties with four or five laden camels arrive almost weekly; but
+the character of these Arab merchants themselves is very
+indifferent; they are treacherous, and despised for their want of
+hospitality. The inhabitants of Seboua and Wady el Arab are not,
+like all their neighbours, of the tribe of Kenous,<a id="FNanchor_31"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_31">[12]</a> but belong to the Arabs Aleykat
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عليقات</span>), who are originally
+from the Hedjaz.<a id="FNanchor_32"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_32">[13]</a>
+Some of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[18]</span> them wander
+about in the eastern mountains, like Bedouins; they all speak
+exclusively Arabic, and the greater part of them are ignorant of
+the language of the Kenous. The governors of Nubia levy a tribute
+from all the goods imported from the south by the Aleykat; but the
+latter being numerous, and well armed, seldom submit to any extra
+exactions from the governors, and have thus acquired considerable
+property. They dispose of the slaves, ivory, gum arabic, ostrich
+feathers, and camels, which they bring from Berber, in Upper Egypt,
+where they purchase the merchandize necessary for the southern
+market.<a id="FNanchor_33"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_33">[14]</a></p>
+
+<p>Two hours and a half from Wady Medyk is Wady el Arab
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي العرب</span>), where, besides
+the Aleykat, Arabs of the tribe of Gharbye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">غربي</span>) have been settled since the period of the
+Mohammedan conquest of Nubia. The shore is every where well
+cultivated. From three hours and a half, till five hours and a
+half, the rock is close to the river, with a narrow footpath on the
+bank; the road for camels traverses the rugged sand-rocks and deep
+valleys of the mountain. Five hours and a half brought us to Wady
+Songary (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي سنكاري</span>); six
+hours and a half, to Korosko (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قرسكو</span>). Here the shore widens, and a grove of
+date-trees begins, which lines the banks of the river as far as
+Ibrim. Groups of houses are now met with at every<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[19]</span> hundred yards, which render it
+difficult to determine the exact limits of each village. At seven
+hours, is Beshyra Nerke (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بشير
+نرقه</span>); seven and a quarter, Shakke (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شقّه</span>); eight hours, Kherab (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خراب</span>). Here are some heaps of hewn stones, the
+remains of ancient edifices, from which the village has taken its
+name (Kherab signifying ruined). Nine hours, Wady
+Oeshra(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي عشرا</span>). Nine and a
+half, Wady Diwan (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ديوان</span>). Ten
+and a half, Derr, (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الدر</span>), the
+chief place between Egypt and Dongola. I do not remember to have
+seen, in any part of Egypt, fields more carefully cultivated than
+are those between Korosko and Derr. The peasants’ houses too are
+larger, and more cleanly, than those of the Egyptian Felah.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 1st.</em> I had reached Derr late in the evening, and
+alighted at the house of Hassan Kashef, as do all travellers of
+respectability, and where the two Mamelouk Begs above mentioned
+were also quartered. As the governor had retired to his women’s
+apartments, I did not wait upon him, but went to rest, having
+refused to answer all the inquisitive questions put to me as well
+by his people, as by the servants of the Begs; but the next
+morning, Hassan, after having visited the Mamelouks, surprised me
+in the open hall where I was lodged, before I had risen, and
+immediately asked me what was the object of my arrival, and whether
+I was a merchant, or sent to him by the Pasha of Egypt. It had been
+my intention, before I knew of the arrival of the Mamelouks, to
+pass for a person sent by the Pasha upon a secret mission into
+Nubia, having learnt from the people of Upper Egypt, that the
+governors of that country dread the power of Mohammed Aly, and
+would not dare to molest me: but when I was apprised of the arrival
+of the two Begs, and being also led to believe, from the
+conversation of the peasants at whose houses I had slept in my way
+up to Derr, that the Nubian princes were as much afraid of the
+Mamelouks, their southern neighbours, as they are of their northern
+one, I thought it would be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[20]</span> dangerous to disguise my real intentions;
+and, encouraged by the success of Messrs. Legh and Smelt, I
+candidly told Hassan Kashef, that I had merely come to make a tour
+of pleasure through Nubia, like the two gentlemen who had been at
+Derr before me; and presented to him, at the same time, my letters
+of recommendation. I however profited little by my candour. The
+frank avowal of my intentions was interpreted as a mere scheme of
+deception; no one would believe that I was only a curious
+traveller; the Arabic I spoke, and my acquaintance with Turkish
+manners, led the Kashef to believe that I was a Turk, and sent by
+Hassan Beg of Esne to watch his motions; and the two Begs, although
+they had behaved remarkably civil to me, upon my visiting them,
+strengthened the Kashef in his opinion. I spent the whole of this
+day, and part of the next, in negociations with the governor, in
+order to obtain a guide to conduct me to the southward. An offering
+of soap,<a id="FNanchor_34"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_34">[15]</a> coffee, and two red caps,
+worth, altogether, about sixty piastres, which I made to him,
+would, at any other time, have been very acceptable; but the
+presents made to him by Messrs. Legh and Smelt were worth about
+1000 piastres, and they had only gone to Ibrim, “while you,” said
+the Governor, “give me a few trifles, and wish to go beyond that
+place, even to the second Cataract.”—I replied, that my present was
+certainly not proportionate to his rank and claims; but that it was
+already more than my means could afford; and that I thought myself
+possessed of an advantage over my predecessors in my letters of
+recommendation from Esne. The following lucky incident at last led
+to the attainment of my wishes: I had been informed that a large
+caravan was on its way from Mahass to Esne, and that a considerable
+part<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[21]</span> of the
+merchandize belonged to the Kashef himself, who wished to sell it
+at Siout and Cairo. I therefore waited privately upon him, and told
+him, that if I returned to Esne, and the Beg who had given me the
+letter of recommendation, should be informed of the little
+attention that had been paid to his letter, in not allowing me to
+pass beyond the second Cataract, notwithstanding its express tenour
+that I should be so permitted, he would readily think himself
+justified in raising a contribution upon the caravan on its arrival
+at Esne, or impeding its route towards Siout. This became a matter
+of serious reflection with the Kashef; and he at last addressed me
+in the following terms: “Whoever you may be, whether an Englishman,
+like the two other persons who passed here, or an agent of the
+Pasha, I shall not send you back unsatisfied: you may proceed; but,
+farther than Sukkot the road is not safe for you; and from thence,
+therefore, you will return.” I requested a letter of recommendation
+for Sukkot, which was immediately written, and a Bedouin guide also
+was soon found. I bought some Dhourra and dates, for provision on
+the road, and left Derr a little before noon on the 2d of March,
+the two Mamelouk Begs in vain endeavouring to create obstacles to
+the prosecution of my journey. But before I continue the
+description of my route, I shall here give some details concerning
+the country I had already passed through from Assouan, and its
+inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>The general direction of the river from Assouan to Korosko is
+south; it there takes a western course, which it retains the whole
+of the way to Dongola. The eastern bank is, throughout, better
+adapted for cultivation than the western; and wherever the former
+is of any breadth, it is covered with the rich alluvial earth
+deposited by the Nile. On the western side, on the contrary, the
+sands of the desert are impetuously carried to the very brink of
+the river, by the north-west winds which prevail during the
+winter<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[22]</span> and spring
+seasons; and it is, generally, only in those places where the
+course of the sandy torrent is arrested by the mountain, that the
+narrow plain admits of cultivation. The eastern shore is, in
+consequence, much more populous than the western; but it is not a
+little singular, that all the chief remains of antiquity are upon
+the latter. The ancient Egyptians, perhaps, worshipped their
+bounteous deities more particularly in those places where they had
+most to dread from the inimical deity Typhon, or the personified
+desert, who stands continually opposed to the beneficent Osiris, or
+the waters of the Nile.</p>
+
+<p>The bed of the river is, in general, much narrower than in any
+part of Egypt, and the course of its waters less impeded by
+sand-banks. Immediately after the inundation, the poor Nubians
+cultivate, on the narrow shore, Dhourra, and the grain called
+Dokhen (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دخن</span>), of which bread
+is made;<a id="FNanchor_35"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_35">[16]</a> but it is upon the crop of
+Dhourra that they depend for their subsistence; while its dry
+stalks serve during the whole of the summer, as food for their
+cattle, instead of straw. The Birsim, or lucerne of Egypt, is
+unknown here, as well as in Upper Egypt, south of Kenne. After the
+inundation has subsided, and the Dhourra harvest is finished, the
+soil is irrigated by means of water wheels (Sakie <span class="arabic" lang="ar">ساقيه</span>), turned by cows, which throw up
+the water either from the river, or from pits dug in the shore; for
+water is every where found in plenty, on digging to the depth of
+fifteen or twenty feet, after the inundation; it is the same in
+Upper Egypt during the summer; but the water of these pits or wells
+has a disagreeable, brackish taste; and even the best of it is very
+heavy, and difficult to digest.<a id="FNanchor_36"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_36">[17]</a>
+In<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[23]</span> order that the
+soil may be well soaked, the fields are divided into numerous small
+squares, of about ten feet each, with elevated borders, so as to
+retain the water, which is conveyed to them by narrow side
+channels. The fields are then sown for the second time with barley,
+a kind of bean called Kasherangag, tobacco of the worst kind, and
+the French bean (Louby), the leaves of which afford, when boiled, a
+soup much esteemed among the Nubians. I seldom saw any wheat. Near
+Derr are some fields of lentils, peas, and water melons. On the
+declivity of the shore, towards the river, which is more humid, and
+less exposed to the sun than the upper plain, a kind of bitter
+horse-bean (Turmus <span class="arabic" lang="ar">ترمس</span>) is
+sown, which does not require irrigation; they are well known in
+Egypt, and are the <em>Lupini</em> of the Italians. The wheat and
+barley are ripe in the middle of March. In the end of April, after
+the latter is reaped, the ground is sometimes sown, a third time,
+with Dhourra; and watered by means of the water-wheels. This is
+called “the summer seed” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">زرع
+صيفي</span>), and comes to maturity in the month of July; but the
+most fertile spots only are used for it.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the palm and Doum<a id="FNanchor_37"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_37">[18]</a>
+tree, a variety of thorny trees of the Mimosa species (Sant
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">صَنت</span>) grow wild on the banks
+of the river. The low shrub of the Senna (Senna mekke (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سنا مكّه</span>), is every where met with from
+Esne to Mahass, growing wild, but upon those spots only which have
+been inundated. This Senna, however, is little esteemed for its
+quality, and is used only by the peasants, who are well acquainted
+with its medicinal virtues. The Senna of Upper Egypt is
+distinguished from that of Nubia, and of the mountains, by the
+larger size of its leaves. Among the mounds of sand on the western
+shore grows the tamarisk (Tarfa, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">طرفا</span>), the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[24]</span> same tree which lines the borders of the
+Euphrates, in the Mesopotamian deserts.</p>
+
+<p>Of animals I saw but few, in riding along the banks of the
+river. The cattle of the Nubians consist in cows, sheep, and goats;
+and sometimes a few buffaloes are met with. The wealthier have
+asses. Few camels are seen, except among the merchants of Seboua,
+and in Wady el Arab. In the eastern mountain, the mountain goat, or
+Bouquetin of the Alps, (called in Upper Egypt Taital <span class="arabic" lang="ar">تَيتل</span>), is found, one of which I saw at
+Siout: it is called Beden in Arabia Petræa. The Arabs Bisharye
+speak of a wild sheep, with straight horns, which inhabits their
+mountains. Gazelles of the common gray species are every where in
+great numbers; and hares are not uncommon; some of the Arabs
+Kerrarish hunt them both with greyhounds kept for that purpose.</p>
+
+<p>The birds of Nubia are, a small species of partridge, with red
+legs, which sometimes afforded me a welcome supper; wild geese of
+the largest kind, a few storks, the eagle Rakham, crows in vast
+numbers, the bird Katta,<a id="FNanchor_38"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_38">[19]</a>
+but in small flights, and clouds of sparrows, which are the terror
+of the Nubians, as they devour at least one-third of the harvest. A
+species of lapwing is also extremely common. It is the head of this
+bird which is represented in the hieroglyphic figures upon the
+augural staff; at least so it appeared to me whenever I saw the
+bird displaying its crest. A white water-bird of the size of a
+large goose, called Kork, by the natives, inhabits the sandy
+islands in the Nile, in flocks of several hundreds together, but I
+could never get near enough to examine any of them. The bird Zakzak
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">زقزاق</span>), frequently seen in
+Upper Egypt, which is said to creep into the crocodile’s mouth, and
+to feed upon the digested food which that animal throws up from its
+stomach, does not visit Nubia; neither did I see any bird of the
+shape of the Ibis.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[25]</span>On the sandy
+shore, on the west side of the Nile, are numberless beetles
+(Scarabæi), of great variety in size and shape; I often found the
+sandy road on that side completely covered with the traces of their
+feet. The Nubians, who call them Kafers, or Infidels, dread them
+from a belief that they are venomous, and that they poison whatever
+kind of food they touch. Their colour is generally black, and the
+largest I have seen were of the size of a half-crown piece. The
+worship paid to this animal by the ancient Egyptians may probably
+have had its origin in Nubia; it might well be adopted as a symbol
+of passive resignation to the decrees of providence; for it is
+impossible, from the sandy mounds which they inhabit, that these
+beetles can ever taste water, and the food they partake of must be
+very scanty; they are however always seen busily and unweariedly
+toiling their way over the sands.</p>
+
+<p>The Nubians have no fishing apparatus whatever, except at the
+first Cataract, at Derr, and at the second Cataract, where some
+fish are occasionally caught in nets. The two species of fish which
+seem to be most common, are called by the natives Dabesk and
+Meslog.</p>
+
+<p>The country which I had crossed, from Assouan to Derr, is
+divided by its inhabitants into two parts: the Wady el Kenous,
+which extends from Assouan to Seboua, and the Wady Nouba,
+comprising the whole country south of Seboua, as far as the
+northern limits of Dongola. Of the Wady Nouba, and its inhabitants,
+I shall speak hereafter.<a id="FNanchor_39"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_39">[20]</a>
+The Wady el Kenous is inhabited by the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[26]</span> Arabs Kenous (sing. Kensy, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">قنسي</span>), who derive their origin, according
+to their own tradition, from the deserts of Nedjed, and who settled
+here at the period when the great Bedouin tribes from the East
+spread over Egypt.<a id="FNanchor_40"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_40">[21]</a>
+Among these were also Bedouins of the neighbourhood of Bagdad,
+whose descendants are still known by the name of Bagdadli, and
+inhabit the Wady Dehmyt, and Wady el Embarakat, on the western side
+of the river. The Kenous are subdivided into many smaller tribes,
+which have given their names to the districts they inhabit; thus,
+Wady Nasrellab, Abou Hor, &amp;c. &amp;c., are inhabited by Kenous
+of the tribe of Nasrellab, and Abou Hor. Great jealousies often
+exist amongst these different tribes, which sometimes break out in
+wars.</p>
+
+<p>It should seem that the new settlers had soon familiarized
+themselves with the conquered natives, whose language they adopted,
+and still retain. This language has no Arabic sounds whatever, and
+is spoken all the way south of Assouan, as far as Seboua, and in
+every village to the north of the former place, as far as Edfou;
+numbers of Kenous having settled in Upper Egypt in later times. I
+have subjoined a vocabulary of the Kenous and another of the Nouba.
+It is a fact worthy of notice, that two foreign tongues should have
+subsisted so long, to the almost entire exclusion of the Arabic, in
+a country bordered on one side by Dongola and on the other by
+Egypt, in both of which Arabic is exclusively spoken. Those only of
+the Kenous who have been in Egypt speak Arabic; their women are,
+for the greater part, entirely ignorant of it. Nor is it less
+remarkable that the Aleykat Arabs<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">[27]</span> of Seboua, and Wady el Arab, have retained
+their pure Arabic, placed as they are on the boundaries both of the
+Kenous and Nouba. The men are acquainted with both languages; but
+the Aleykat women understand Arabic only.</p>
+
+<p>The way of living, and the manners, of the Nouba and Kenous
+being much the same, I shall speak of them, after I have given a
+description of my route.</p>
+
+<p>The neighbourhood of Derr is interesting on account of a temple
+situated on the declivity of a rocky hill, just behind the village.
+Its structure denotes remote antiquity. The gods of Egypt appear to
+have been worshipped here long before they were lodged in the
+gigantic temples of Karnac and Gorne, which are, to all appearance,
+the most ancient temples in Egypt. The temple of Derr is entirely
+hewn out of the sand-stone rock, with its pronaos, sekos or cella,
+and adyton. The pronaos consists of three rows of<img alt="" class="float-right iw9" src="images/i01.jpg" id="i01"> square
+pillars, four in each row. The row of pillars nearest the cella,
+which were originally joined by the roof to the main temple, are of
+larger dimensions than the rest; they are nearly four feet square,
+and about fourteen feet high, and are still entire, while fragments
+of the shafts only remain of the two outer rows. In front of each
+of the four pillars are the legs of a colossal figure, similar to
+those of the temple of Gorne, at Thebes. A portion of the excavated
+rock which had formed one of the walls of the pronaos, has fallen
+down; on the fragments of it, a battle is represented: the hero, in
+his chariot, is pursuing his vanquished foe, who retires to a
+marshy and woody country, carrying the wounded along with him. In a
+lower compartment of the same wall, the prisoners, with their arms
+tied behind their backs, are brought before the executioner, who is
+represented in the act of slaying one of them. All these figures
+are much defaced. On the opposite wall is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[28]</span> another battle, but in a still more mutilated
+state: in this, prisoners are brought before the hawk-headed
+Osiris. On the front wall of the cella, on each side of the
+principal entrance, Briareus is represented in the act of being
+slain, and Osiris, with uplifted arm, arresting the intended blow.
+This is the same group which is so often seen in the Egyptian
+temples; but, Briareus has here only two heads, and four arms,
+instead of the numerous heads and arms represented in Egypt. On the
+four pillars in front of the cella, variously dressed figures are
+sculptured, two generally together, taking each other by the hand.
+The Egyptian Mendes, or Priapus, is also repeatedly seen. The cella
+of the temple consists of an apartment thirteen paces square, which
+receives its light only through the principal gate, and a smaller
+one, on the side of it. Two rows of square pillars, three in each
+row, extend from the gate of the cella to the adytum: these pillars
+show the infancy of architecture, being mere square blocks, hewn
+out of the rock, without either base or capital; they are somewhat
+larger at the bottom than at the top. The inside walls of the
+cella, and its six pillars, are covered with mystic figures, in the
+usual style; they are of much ruder workmanship than any I have
+seen in Egypt. Some remains of colour prove that all these figures
+were originally painted. On one of the side walls of the cella, are
+five figures, in long robes, with shaven heads, carrying a boat
+upon their shoulders, the middle of which is also supported by a
+man with a lion’s skin upon his shoulder. In the posterior wall of
+the cella, is a door, with the winged globe over it, which leads
+into the small adytum, where the seats of four figures remain, cut
+out of the back wall.<a id="FNanchor_41"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_41">[22]</a>
+On both sides of the adytum are small chambers, with private
+entrances<span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[29]</span> into the
+cella; in one of which a deep excavation makes it probable that it
+was used as a sepulchre.</p>
+
+<p>On the side of the mountain, near the temple, are some
+sepulchral pits excavated out of the rocky ground: over two of them
+are the following inscriptions, which I copied:</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure class="iw1" id="i02"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i02.jpg" id="img_images_i02.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Derr being the principal place in Nubia, and the usual residence
+of the chiefs, whenever they are not travelling about, is resorted
+to by strangers, and carries on some commerce. The dates of Derr
+and Ibrim are much esteemed in Egypt, and the merchants of Esne and
+Assouan export many ship-loads from hence in autumn, when the
+height of the waters insures a quick passage down the river. Young
+date trees are also carried hence to Egypt, as the trees propagated
+there from seed soon degenerate. The dates are paid for in Dhourra,
+and in coarse linen and Melayes, of Esne and Siout manufacture; but
+if the harvest of Dhourra has been abundant in Nubia, the payment
+is then made in Spanish dollars. The state of commercial
+intercourse in this country is, however, very bad; dates, for
+example, bought at Derr, even when paid for in cash, leave, when
+sold at Cairo, a clear profit, after paying all expenses, of at
+least 400 per cent. Dhourra, on the contrary, carried from Assouan
+to Derr, yields there 100 per cent. profit. The hundred weight of
+dates at Derr is worth about eight shillings. The common currency
+is the Moud, or small measure of Dhourra, by which every article of
+low value<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[30]</span> is
+estimated. The dollar is rather an article of exchange than a
+currency. Piastres and paras have only been known here since the
+invasion of the Mamelouks.</p>
+
+<p>The village of Derr stands in a grove of date trees, and
+consists of about two hundred houses. Hassan Kashef and his two
+brothers have each a good house. The greater part of the
+inhabitants are Turks, the descendants of the Bosnian soldiers who
+were sent by Sultan Selym to take possession of the
+country.<a id="FNanchor_42"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_42">[23]</a></p>
+
+<p><em>March 2d.</em> I departed from Derr with an old Arab, named
+Mohammed Abou Saad (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">محمّد ابو
+سَعد</span>), one of the Bedouins called Kerrarish (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قراريش</span>). These Bedouins, a remote branch
+of the Ababde, pasture their cattle on the uninhabited banks of the
+river, and on its islands, from Derr southward, as far as Mahass
+and Dongola, where they are said to be more numerous than in Nubia.
+They are poor; their tents are formed of mats made of the leaves of
+palm-trees, with a partition in the middle to separate the women’s
+apartment; but, notwithstanding their poverty, they refuse to give
+their daughters in marriage to the Nubians, and have thus preserved
+their race pure. They pride themselves, and justly, in the beauty
+of their girls. The Kerrarish are, for the most part, in the
+service of the governors of Nubia, to whom they are attached as a
+corps of guards, and guides, and accompany them in their journies
+through their dominions. Whilst the father and grown up sons are
+absent, the mother and daughters remain in their solitary tent; for
+they generally live in separate families, and not in encampments.
+These Bedouins receive occasional presents from the chiefs of
+Nubia, and such of them as cultivate the islands in the river are
+exempted from taxes. They are a very honest and hospitable people,
+and more kind in their dispositions, than any of the inhabitants of
+Nubia whom I met<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[31]</span>
+with. Those who are not in the employ of the governors, gain their
+livelihood either by acting as guides, or in collecting the senna
+in the eastern mountain, which they sell to the merchants of Esne
+at about £1. per camel’s load (from four to five hundred weight).
+Numbers of them also travel from Wady Halfa, on the Nile, three
+days journies into the western desert, and collect there the Shabb,
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شبّ</span>) or nitre, which they
+exchange with the same merchants for Dhourra; giving two measures
+of the former for three equal measures of the latter. The nitre is
+found on digging only a few inches deep, and covers a space of
+several miles in extent. This is, however, a perilous traffic, as
+the inhabitants of Kubbanýe, a village about twelve miles north of
+Assouan, also engage in it; these are eleven days in reaching the
+nitre pits, and whenever the two parties meet, a bloody conflict
+ensues. Between Wady Halfa and the Shabb, one day’s distance from
+the latter, is a spring where is some verdure, and where a few Doum
+trees grow North of the Shabb, one day, in the direction of the
+great Oasis, is a similar spring, called Nary (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ناري</span>), with many date trees growing round it.</p>
+
+<p>After having rode along by the date groves, and well built
+peasants houses, for about half an hour from Derr, we ascended the
+eastern mountain, the road along the river side being interrupted
+by the rocks. On the top of the mountain is a wide plain, covered
+with small fragments of loose sand-stone; and bordered on the east,
+at about two hours distance, by a higher range of mountains. We
+continued along this plain in the direction of W. S. W., until two
+hours and a half from Derr, when we descended again to the banks of
+the river, near the village Kette (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قتّه</span>), where we crossed the dry bed of a branch of the
+stream, and alighted on an island, at the tent of my guide, where I
+remained for the night. These people, who all speak Arabic as well
+as the Nouba language, are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[32]</span> quite black, but have nothing of the Negro
+features. The men generally go naked, except a rag twisted round
+their middle; the women have a coarse shirt thrown about them. Both
+sexes suffer the hair of the head to grow; they cut it above the
+neck, and twist it all over in thin ringlets, in a way similar to
+that of the Arab of Souakin, whose portrait is given by Mr. Salt in
+Lord Valentia’s Travels. Their hair is very thick, but not woolly;
+the men never comb it, but the women sometimes do; the latter wear
+on the back part of the head, ringlets, or a small ornament, made
+of mother of pearl and Venetian glass beads. Both men and women
+grease their head and neck with butter whenever they can afford it;
+this custom answers two purposes; it refreshes the skin heated by
+the sun, and keeps off vermin. The young boys go quite naked; but
+the grown up girls tie round their waist a string of leather
+tassels, much resembling the feather ornaments worn for a like
+purpose by the south sea islanders.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 3d.</em> I sent my guide back to Derr, to purchase
+more Dhourra, in order that we might give some of it to the camels,
+in those places where no wild herbs grow; and on his return we set
+out. Our road lay along a grove of date trees, and an uninterrupted
+row of houses, for two hours, when the perpendicular rock reached
+close to the river. At the height of about sixty or eighty feet
+above the footpath, I observed from below, the entrance to an
+apartment hewn in the rock, but without any road leading to it, the
+rock being there quite perpendicular. In like manner I have seen
+sepulchres cut in the rock of Wady Mousa in Arabia Petræa, which
+can only be approached by means of ladders, forty or fifty feet in
+height. In two hours and a half we reached the castle of Ibrim
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابريم</span>), which is now
+completely in ruins, the Mamelouks having sustained a siege in it
+last year, and in their turn besieged the troops of Ibrahim Beg, in
+the course of which operations, the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[33]</span> walls were battered with the few cannon that
+were found in the castle, and many of the houses of the village
+levelled with the ground.</p>
+
+<p>Ibrim is built upon an insulated rocky hill, just above the
+river, and is surrounded by barren mountains entirely incapable of
+cultivation, on the tops of which are many ancient tombs of Turkish
+saints. The houses are constructed of loose sand-stone, as is the
+modern wall which surrounds the town. On the west side are some
+remains of the ancient wall; this had been built of hewn stones
+cemented together with great neatness: the stones are rather small.
+It appeared to me to be an erection of the Lower Empire. Within the
+area of the town are the remains of two public buildings, probably
+Greek churches, built in the same style as the ancient wall. The
+castle is about fifteen minutes walk in circumference. A small gray
+granite column was the only remnant of antiquity it contained.</p>
+
+<p>The castle of Ibrim, with its territory, which commences half an
+hour south of Derr, and extends as far as Tosko,<a id="FNanchor_43"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_43">[24]</a> is in the hands of the Aga of Ibrim, who
+is independent of the governors of Nubia; the inhabitants being
+thus freed from taxes, and paying nothing to their own Aga, had in
+the course of years acquired, by the annual sale of their dates,
+great wealth both in money and cattle; but the Mamelouks, in their
+retreat last year, destroyed in a few weeks the fruits of a
+century. They took from the Wady Ibrim about twelve hundred cows,
+all the sheep and goats, imprisoned the most respectable people,
+for whose ransom they received upwards of 100,000 Spanish dollars;
+and on their departure, put the Aga to death; their men having
+eaten up or destroyed all the provisions they could meet with. This
+scene of pillage, was followed by a dreadful famine, as I have
+already mentioned.<a id="FNanchor_44"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_44">[25]</a></p>
+
+<p>The people of Ibrim are often at war with the governors
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[34]</span> Nubia, and
+although comparatively few in number, are a match for the latter;
+being all well provided with fire arms. They are white, compared
+with the Nubians, and still retain the features of their ancestors,
+the Bosnian soldiers who were sent to garrison Ibrim by the great
+Sultan Selym. They all dress in coarse linen gowns, and most of
+them wear something like a turban: “We are Turks,” they say, “and
+not Noubas.” As they are not under absolute subjection to their
+Aga, and independant of every other power, quarrels are very
+frequent among them. They have a hereditary Kady: blood is revenged
+by blood; no commutation in money being accepted for it when death
+ensues; but all wounds have their stated fines, according to the
+parts of the body upon which they are inflicted. A similar law
+prevails among the Syrian Bedouins. When a Turk of Ibrim marries,
+he presents his wife with a wedding dress, and gives her besides, a
+written bond for three or four hundred piastres, half of which sum
+is paid to her in case of a divorce. Divorces, however, are very
+rare. At a wedding a cow or a calf is killed; for to eat mutton
+upon such an occasion would be a great scandal to the spouse.</p>
+
+<p>In no part of the Eastern world, in which I have travelled, have
+I ever found property in such perfect security as in Ibrim. The
+inhabitants leave the Dhourra in heaps on the field, without a
+watch, during the night; their cattle feed on the banks of the
+river without any one to tend them; and the best parts of the
+household furniture are left all night under the palm-trees around
+the dwelling; in short, the people agreed in saying, that theft was
+quite unknown in their territory. It ought, however, to be added,
+that the Nubians, in general, are free from the vice of
+pilfering.</p>
+
+<p>From Ibrim we crossed the mountain, and at one hour’s distance
+from it descended to the river side, at Wady Shubak (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شُباق</span>),<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[35]</span> whither most of the inhabitants of Ibrim
+retired, after the passage of the Mamelouks. We slept here, at the
+house of the children of the Aga whom the Mamelouks murdered.
+Wherever I alighted, a number of peasants assembled, in the
+evening, at the house; I always gave out that I had business of a
+public nature with the two chiefs, who were stationed to the south
+of Sukkot, and being accompanied by a man known to be attached to
+the Kashefs, no one dared to create the least obstacle to my
+journey. Indeed, travellers in Nubia, in general, have little to
+fear from the ill will of the peasants; it is the rapacious spirit
+of the governors that is to be dreaded.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 4th.</em> The grove of date trees continues to the
+south of Shubak. I found many of the houses abandoned; and at every
+step were graves. The Nubians place an earthen vessel by the side
+of every grave, which they fill with water at the moment the
+deceased is interred, and leave it there: the grave itself is
+covered with small pebbles of various colours, and two large palm
+leaves are stuck into the ground at either extremity; the symbol of
+victory thus becoming, in Nubia, that of death. Near Shubak are
+some mounds of hewn stones, indicating the remains of an ancient
+edifice. One hour from Ibrim brought us to Wady Bostan
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي بُستان</span>). The soil, fit
+for culture, is here very narrow; the eastern mountain is distant
+about one hour; between it and the plain is a rising spot of ground
+covered with loose sand-stones. The shape of the insulated
+mountains which compose this part of the chain, is remarkable; most
+of them resembling cones flattened on the top, or perfect pyramids;
+and when viewed from afar, they appear so regular, that they seem
+to be the work of man. In two hours and a half we came to the
+village of Tosko (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تسقه</span>), the
+southern limits of Wady Ibrim. In the rocky plain east of Tosko
+stands an insulated, shattered rock, with several
+sepulchres<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[36]</span> excavated
+in it; these are supported on the inside by low square pillars: in
+one of them, a vaulted passage leads out to a back entrance. They
+are of very rude workmanship; and have no sculptures upon the
+walls, except the figure of the cross. Near the rock are
+considerable mounds of rubbish. It is matter of surprise, that
+these are the only sepulchres met with in the eastern hills, from
+Assouan to this place: the sand-stone rock might have easily been
+excavated, as has been done in numerous places in Egypt. Tosko
+continues for about one hour. Three hours and a half, passed over
+the mountain. Four and a half, Ermenne (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ارمنّه</span>), a fine village, belonging to the territory of
+Nubia. Our road had been till now, in the direction of S. W. From
+hence, southward, we travelled W. S. W. Five hours and a half,
+again passed over the mountain, which is close to the river. Six
+hours, Formundy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فرمندي</span>), a
+poor village, extending for several miles. The Nubians here grow a
+little cotton, small plantations of which are every where met with
+from Kenne, in Upper Egypt, as far as Dongola. The women weave the
+cotton into coarse shirts, or sell it for Dhourra to the merchants
+of Derr. Seven hours and a half, we passed the ruins of a Greek
+church, which had been used in later times as a mosque. Its walls,
+for half their height, are constructed of small stones, and the
+upper part of bricks burnt in the sun; there are many names of
+visitors written on the white plaister; the writing is of the
+latest time of the Lower Empire. The river here has many windings;
+and this part of it is reputed a favourite haunt of the crocodile.
+I saw myself half a dozen of them lying close together on a
+sand-bank. All the Nubians, as well as the people of Upper Egypt,
+eat the flesh of this animal whenever they can catch it, which is,
+however, very seldom.<a id="FNanchor_45"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_45">[26]</a></p>
+
+<p>Beyond the Greek church, the road again crosses the
+mountain,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[37]</span> on the
+other side of which, at eight hours and a half, is the Wady Fereyg
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فريك</span>). The different
+villages comprised under the collective term Wady, are generally
+separated from the Wadys on their northern or southern side by a
+part of the mountain projecting close to the river, which thus
+forms a natural division. Nine hours and a half, long after sunset,
+we alighted, at the house of one of the wives of Hassan Kashef,
+where I slept. Our day’s march, reckoning by the length of the day,
+must have been at least ten hours and a half. My watch had
+unfortunately stopped, from the dust having penetrated into it. My
+day’s march in Nubia is therefore calculated only by the sun’s
+height, and the length of the day; I may have in this way erred as
+to partial distances from one village to another; but the entire
+day’s route will generally be found correct.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 5th.</em> In half an hour we arrived at the
+Akabe<a id="FNanchor_46"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_46">[27]</a> of Fereyg, or the place
+where the mountain separates that Wady from its southern neighbour.
+I sent my guide, with the camels, over the mountain; and following
+a narrow foot-path along the almost perpendicular shore, I arrived,
+at one hour’s distance from Fereyg, at an ancient temple hewn out
+of the rocky side of the mountain; no other road leads up to it but
+this dangerous foot-path, neither are there any traces of an
+ancient road. I entered through a high narrow gateway into a small
+Egyptian temple, cut entirely out of the rock, and in as perfect a
+state of preservation, as when first <img alt="" class="float-right iw8" src="images/i03.jpg" id="i03"> finished. It consists of a
+cella, ten paces in length and seven in breadth, and about twelve
+feet high. Within it are four columns, with Egyptian capitals. On
+either side of the cella is an apartment which receives
+light<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[38]</span> only by the
+entrance from the cella. Low stone benches run along the walls of
+the cella, a peculiarity which I had not seen in any other Egyptian
+temple. There is an ascent by three low steps from the cella into
+the adytum, in which is a deep sepulchral excavation; there is also
+a similar but smaller one in the cella itself. The walls both of
+the cella and adytum are covered with mystic sculptures in the
+usual style, but there are none in the two side chambers. The
+Greeks had converted this temple into a church, and had plaistered
+the walls white, to receive their paintings, many of which still
+remain; a St. George killing the dragon is particularly
+conspicuous. Many Greek travellers have inscribed their names on
+the walls. The whole fabric is of coarse execution, and the
+hieroglyphics much in the same style as those at Derr. On the
+opposite side of the river, a little to the north of it, is the
+large temple of Ebsambal, and the colossal figures, of which I
+shall speak hereafter.</p>
+
+<p>One hour and three quarters from Fereyg, I rejoined my guide, at
+the foot of an insulated hill, close to the water, on which a
+castle has been built, resembling in size and form, that at Ibrim;
+it bears the name of Kalat Adde (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قلعت ادّه</span>); it has been abandoned many years, being
+entirely surrounded by barren rocks. Part of its ancient wall,
+similar in construction to that of Ibrim, still remains. The
+habitations are built partly of stone and partly of bricks. On the
+most elevated spot in the small town, eight or ten gray granite
+columns of small dimensions lie on the ground, with a few capitals
+of red sand-stone near them, of clumsy Greek architecture. The rock
+of this hill is a fine pudding-stone, of flint, quartz, and red
+sand-stone; the only specimen of the kind I have met with in Nubia.
+Opposite the castle, the river forms a large island, called
+Beyllany (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جزيرة بيلاني</span>), from
+the name of the village nearest to it, on the western side. The
+mountain round Adde is composed of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[39]</span> rugged hills of grotesque shape, which seem
+to have been shattered by some violent commotion of nature. From
+hence, upwards, the course of the river is W. S. W. Two hours and a
+half from Fereyg, the eastern mountain branches out far to the
+eastward, and closes with the river again beyond the second
+Cataract of Wady Halfa. The wild shrub, Oshour (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عشور</span>), called by the Arabs of the Dead
+Sea, Asheyr (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عشير</span>), grows
+here in great quantity. This plant produces a fruit, within which
+is a bunch of silky fibres enveloping a small bean. It has been
+described by Norden. It grows in every part of Upper Egypt, south
+of Siout, in sandy spots near the river; but is not so large there
+as it is in Nubia; the Egyptians call it Fetme (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فتمه</span>). From Silsilis (south of Edfou) to
+the district of Mahass, it is the most common weed met with on the
+road: its leaves are poisonous to the camels. The Coloquintida
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حَنضَل</span>) is likewise
+frequently met with, where the Oshour grows. Like the Arabian
+Bedouins, the Nubians make tinder of it.<a id="FNanchor_47"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_47">[28]</a> At the end of three hours we passed, in
+the sandy plain, a number of tumuli, or barrows, of various sizes,
+covered with sand: I counted about twenty-five within the circuit
+of a mile and a half: the regularity of their shape, which is
+exactly the same as that of the tumuli in the Syrian deserts, and
+the plain of Troy, makes it almost certain, that they are
+artificial. Three hours and a half, Kosko, a small village. Four
+hours, the large village of Endhana, also called Adhendhan
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">انضانا—اضنضان</span>). In riding
+along, we were invited to a funeral feast by the inhabitants of a
+house belonging to some relation of the Nubian princes; the
+possessor had died a few days before at Derr, and on receiving the
+news of his death, his relations here had slaughtered a cow, with
+which they were entertaining the whole neighbourhood; at two hours
+distance from the village, I met women with plates upon their
+heads, who<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[40]</span> had been
+receiving their share of the meat. Cows are killed only by people
+of consequence, on the death of a near relation; the common people
+content themselves with a sheep or a goat, the flesh of which is
+equally distributed; the poorer class distribute some bread only at
+the grave of the deceased. Four hours and three quarters; upon the
+hill, at the south end of Wady Endhana, opposite the village of
+Faras, on the west side of the river, stands an ancient ruined
+mosque. Five hours and a half, passed the fine island of Faras. The
+country is here open, but the plain, on both sides of the river, is
+covered with sand. Seven hours, the village Serra gharby
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سرّه غربي</span>) on the west side.
+Seven and a half, the ruins of a small Arab town close to the
+water, enclosed by a thick brick wall. Eight hours, Serra
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سرّه</span>), a fine village; eight
+and a half, Debeyra (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دبَيرهَ</span>), where I slept. My guide always conducted me
+to the house of the principal person in the village; we should
+otherwise have often gone supperless to rest. Wherever we alighted,
+a mat was spread for us upon the ground, just before the gate of
+the house, which strangers are never permitted to enter, unless
+they are intimate acquaintance. Dhourra bread, with milk, was our
+usual supper; to this were sometimes added dates. The landlord
+never eats with his guests, except when earnestly pressed to do so.
+Our camels were not always fed by our hosts, who excused
+themselves, by saying that the stock of Dhourra stalks was already
+exhausted. If the stranger is to be well treated, a breakfast is
+brought in, at sunrise, before he departs; it consists of hot milk
+and bread, the supper being usually cold: but we were seldom so
+fortunate as to get a breakfast, and generally rode the whole day
+without tasting any thing but a few dates from our own stock, at
+some spot where we stopped in the morning to bait our camels upon
+the tamarisk or acacia trees.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 6th.</em> Our road lay over a fertile plain, covered
+with date<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[41]</span> trees and
+habitations, to Eshke (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اشقه</span>).
+The Nile had been so very low last year, that the plain had not
+been inundated. An old man, a relation of the governors of Nubia,
+on seeing me pass by his house, invited me to stop, and entertained
+me most hospitably. He had been, in his youth, governor of Sukkot,
+where he had acted with great tyranny; but he seemed to have
+repented of his former deeds, and was now become the benefactor of
+Eshke. A handful of burnt coffee, which I gave him, was a most
+acceptable present, and he insisted upon my staying with him one
+day, promising that he would cause a lamb to be killed for me; but
+this did not appear to me a sufficient temptation to retard my
+journey.</p>
+
+<p>The slave caravan from Mahass, which I mentioned above, passed
+along the west bank of the river, while I was at Eshke; the usual
+route of these caravans, which generally visit Egypt twice in the
+year, lies across the desert, from Mahass to the Great Oasis, a
+journey of twenty-three days; and from thence to Siout and Cairo.
+It was only this year that the slave-traders, informed of the
+perfectly tranquil state of Nubia and Upper Egypt, had ventured to
+proceed along the banks of the Nile, a road they had not followed
+in the memory of man.</p>
+
+<p>To the south of Eshke is a sandy plain; in three hours, we
+reached Dabrous (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دَبروس</span>); the
+direction of the road S. W. by S. Four hours, Sukoy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سَقوي</span>). Five hours, Wady Halfa
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي حلفه</span>), to the east of
+which, the eastern mountain terminates in slight undulations of the
+ground; but these increase in size, and collect again into
+mountains, about thirty miles farther up. There is some trade
+carried on at Wady Halfa; vessels from Assouan often moor here to
+load dates, and the nitre which the Arabs collect at three days
+journeys from hence in the western desert.<a id="FNanchor_48"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_48">[29]</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[42]</span> In summer, the navigation from Derr to Wady
+Halfa becomes, in many places, very difficult, except for small
+boats, on account of the sand banks. One of the relations of the
+governors of Nubia resides here, and collects the revenue.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of six hours, we came to the southern extremity of
+Wady Halfa. The river forms here several islands, upon one of which
+are the remains of an ancient town, built of bricks, with a high
+brick wall. Seven hours, the plain over which we rode became
+uneven, and studded with insulated clusters of rocks, whose summits
+just appear above the surface of the sand. To the west is the
+second Cataract. Eight hours, halted for the night, in this desert,
+near one of the islands, which are formed by the river. The noise
+of the Cataract was heard in the night, at about half an hour’s
+distance. The place is very romantic; when the inundation subsides,
+many small lakes are left among the rocks; and the banks of these,
+overgrown with large tamarisks, have a picturesque appearance
+amidst the black and green rocks; the lakes and pools thus formed
+cover a space of upwards of two miles in breadth. I here shot a
+wild-goose, which afforded a supper to our party, now increased by
+the company of a poor young girl from Dabrous, who ran after us,
+when she saw us pass by, and begged we would take her under our
+protection as far as Wady Mershed, beyond the Cataract. From Wady
+Halfa to Sukkot is a stony wilderness, with many cataracts in the
+river, similar to that at Assouan; and the navigation is
+interrupted for about one hundred miles. This rocky tract is called
+Dar el Hadjar, or Batn el Hadjar, i. e. the rocky district, or the
+“womb of rocks.”</p>
+
+<p><em>March 7th.</em> After a march of one hour, the straggling
+hillocks and mounds rose into a low chain of hills, the road
+amongst them being a perfect sandy plain. In one hour and a half we
+came to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[43]</span> Wady Amka
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي عَمقه</span>). In the Batn el
+Hadjar, there occur a few spots that admit of cultivation; but they
+consist of very narrow strips of plain by the side of the river,
+where the banks are generally so high, that the waters do not reach
+them during the inundation, and where the soil must consequently be
+irrigated, by means of water-wheels. These narrow plains, called
+Wady, as in other parts of the country, were formerly well
+cultivated. Their principal inhabitants pretend to be Sherifs from
+Mekka, and to have come here at the time of the invasion of the
+other Arab tribes. They have a chief named Abdallah Ibn Emhyd
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عبدالّه ابن امهيد</span>), who
+resides in Wady Attar,<a id="FNanchor_49"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_49">[30]</a>
+and is honoured with the title of Melek, or king, which is bestowed
+on chiefs of all ranks from hence southward. These Sherifs, called
+Omsherif (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اُم شريف</span>), pay a
+small tribute to their Melek, and the Melek is tributary to the
+governors of Nubia, who besides carry off as much of the property
+of these Arabs as falls in their way, whenever they pass along the
+Batn el Hadjar. The greater part of the Sherifs, however, have now
+quitted their abode, owing to the continued incursions of the Arabs
+Sheygya (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شَيِكيعَ</span>), who live
+on the banks of the river, south of Dongola, eight days journeys
+distant from Sukkot, across the desert; and whose depredations have
+so much ruined the Sherifs, that the greater part of them have
+retired to Sukkot, and many of them to Dongola. At present, the
+male inhabitants in the whole district of Batn el Hadjar hardly
+amount to two hundred, half of whom are Sherifs, and the other of
+the Bedouin tribe of Kerrarish. Some Arabs remain at Amka; and a
+small village is built upon a rocky island, where are the ruins of
+a large brick tower; from hence the Arabs cross the branch of the
+river every morning, (upon the trunk of a palm-tree, using their
+hands as paddles) for the purpose of cultivating their fields upon
+the shore, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[44]</span> return
+in the evening in the same manner. As we advance the river
+continues to be full of rocks and islands, and the country has a
+very wild aspect. There is no place that so much resembles the Batn
+el Hadjar and its Wadys, as the road along the Nile from Assouan to
+the first Cataract; the same rocky shore, with here and there the
+same narrow strip of soil, continues all along “the womb of rocks,”
+from Wady Halfa to Sukkot.</p>
+
+<p>At two hours and a half, is Wady Mershed (مرشد). The Wadys are
+separated from each other by rocky tracts, which reach close to the
+river. At Wady Mershed there are again numerous islands in the
+river; upon two of them are some brick ruins, an ancient tower, and
+a few huts of Arabs. Our route from Wady Halfa to Mershed had been
+W. S. W. Above Mershed, the river is free from islands, and few
+rocks are seen in it; but its bed is very narrow, and the banks are
+high: I could throw a stone over to the opposite side. Four hours
+and a half brought us to Sette Hadje, a cultivable patch of ground,
+enclosed by rocks, with some ancient brick dwellings; it is
+inhabited only by an old Arab, who lives in the hut constructed
+over the tomb of the female saint called Sette Hadje, and who owes
+his livelihood to the charity of passengers: I found him extended
+upon his mat, with a pot of water, and an earthen vessel near him,
+into which I put a few handfuls of dates. From hence southwards,
+the river has many windings. The hills on the east side increase in
+height until eight hours and a half, at Wady Seras (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سِراص</span>), when they again form a regular
+chain of mountains, over which lies the road from Wady Sette Hadje.
+My old Arab guide, afraid of robbers from among the Sheygya Arabs,
+who are continually hovering about in these parts, to waylay
+travellers, hurried me along as fast as he could. We met very few
+persons on the road, excepting small parties of five or six Soudan
+pilgrims, or Tekayrne (sing. Tekroury); these courageous
+travellers<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[45]</span> come from
+all parts of Soudan to Darfour, from whence they proceed either by
+Kardofan to Sennaar, or direct to Dongola. From the Nile some of
+them take the route of Suakin, crossing the Red Sea, from thence to
+Djidda; others follow the Nile through Dongola and Mahass, and
+perform their pilgrimage with the Egyptian Hadjis, after having
+remained some time in the mosque El Azhar at Cairo, occupied in
+reading the Coran and a few books of prayers. I found, upon
+subsequent enquiry, that the greater part of these pilgrims were
+natives of Darfour, and Bergho. Among more than forty whom I spoke
+to at Esne, I could not find one whose country was as far west as
+Kashna; but I met with several who came from Wangara. The name
+Tekroury is given to them, I suppose, from their being natives of
+the district of Tekrour in Soudan. Such of them as can read and
+write are called Fókara (plur. of Fakyr), a term applied in Upper
+Egypt to all learned persons, by which is meant, such as can read
+the Coran, and who know how to write talismans, for preservatives
+against charms, and spells of the devil.</p>
+
+<p>Nine hours and a half, we stopped at the southern extremity of
+Wady Seras, at a hut of Kerrarish Arabs, who, together with a
+family of the Sherifs, were watching the produce of a few cotton
+fields, and bean plantations. They gave us some milk for supper,
+assuring us that they had no bread, and that they had not even
+tasted any for the last two months. I distributed a measure of
+Dhourra amongst them, upon condition that they should not exchange
+it for any thing else, but make bread of it for themselves and
+their women, for the latter very seldom enjoy this luxury, which is
+almost exclusively reserved for their husbands and brothers. In
+consequence of my present, the women were all set to work to grind
+the Dhourra between two granite stones, for the richer class only
+have hand-mills (رحا), like those of the Arabian<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[46]</span> Bedouins. Plenty of bread was
+then made, and the girls sat up, eating and singing, the whole of
+the night, and being separated from us only by a partition formed
+of tamarisk branches, they often joined in the conversation. The
+leaves of beans, and the grain of the shrub Kerkedan, which is
+black, and resembles in size the coriander seed, form the food of
+these people. The Kerkedan grows wild in the Batn el Hadjar, and is
+sown in some parts of Northern Nubia; a coffee is made from the
+roasted grains, which is not disagreeable to the taste, but the
+Arabs more usually make bread of them. The leguminous shrub Symka
+is also very common here, and affords excellent food for camels; it
+produces a pod, resembling pease, and containing several round rose
+coloured grains, which are edible, when green; these the Arabs
+collect and dry, and by hard boiling, obtain from them an oil,
+which they use, instead of butter, to grease their hair and
+body.</p>
+
+<p>The Sherifs of Batn el Hadjar are of the darkest brown colour,
+with fine features, and are remarkably well made. Both men and
+women go naked; but the latter wear leather amulets round the neck,
+copper armlets and bracelets, and silver ear-rings. Most of them
+speak a little Arabic.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 8th.</em> From Seras we ascended a high mountain. The
+rock, which had been everywhere sand-stone as far as Wady Halfa,
+changes its nature at the second Cataract, where grunstein and
+grauwacke predominate; these primitive rocks continue throughout
+the Batn el Hadjar. In the mountain beyond Seras are granite, and
+immense rocks of quartz: the grunstein rocks are also every where
+crossed by strata of quartz. Three or four hours east of our route,
+a high chain of mountains extends parallel with the course of the
+river; it bears the name of Djebel Bilingo (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جبل بَلَنكو</span>), and is uninhabited: it is regularly
+visited by winter rains, and the water remains in the clefts and
+hollows the whole of the summer.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[47]</span> In two hours and a half we came to a plain on
+the top of the mountain, called Akabet el benat (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عقبة البنات</span>), the rocks of the girls.
+Here the Arabs who serve as guides through these mountains have
+devised a singular mode of extorting small presents from the
+traveller: they alight at certain spots in the Akabet el benat,
+which they call <span class="arabic" lang="ar">قبضه</span> or
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مقبضه</span>, and beg a present; if
+it is refused, they collect a heap of sand, and mould it into the
+form of a diminutive tomb, and then placing a stone at each of its
+extremities, they apprize the traveller that his tomb is made;
+meaning, that henceforward, there will be no security for him, in
+this rocky wilderness. Most persons pay a trifling contribution,
+rather than have their graves made before their eyes: there were,
+however, several tombs of this description dispersed over the
+plain. Being satisfied with my guide, I gave him one piastre, with
+which he was content. On the southern descent of Akabet el benat,
+the principal rock is micaceous schist and chlorite, and farther
+down, towards the Wady Attyre, fine porphyry rocks are met with. I
+saw only a few specimens of green porphyry, with red slabs of
+feldspath; the greatest part being red porphyry, and porphyry
+schist. I possess specimens of all these rocks. From Seras, our
+route lay S. W. by S. Four hours and a half, Wady Attyre
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">التّيره</span>), the principal
+village in the Batn el Hadjar. Here again, there are several
+islands in the river, with ruins of ancient brick habitations and
+towers upon them. The shores seem to have offered little security,
+even in ancient times, for I met with no ruined buildings on the
+eastern bank of the Batn el Hadjar; the ancient inhabitants seem to
+have exclusively chosen the islands for their abode. There is
+another cataract in the river at Wady Attyre, and a similar one
+between that place and Seras, opposite to Samne, on the west bank.
+We continued in the Wady Attyre upwards of an hour. Some date trees
+grow in all these Wadys, but the Doum is more common. At five
+hours, a wild passage across the mountain<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[48]</span> begins, called Akabet Djebel Doushe
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عقبة جبل دوشه</span>). From the top
+of it I enjoyed a beautiful view of the course of the river to the
+southward; but its narrow verdant banks are almost lost in the wide
+expanse of the rocky desert, where the eye, fatigued by the view of
+the dreary wilderness, searches with difficulty for the blue
+stream, often hidden by islands, and only appearing partially. Its
+course from hence is S. W. by S. At seven hours, we descended from
+the mountain into Wady Ambigo (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اَمبقُو</span>). At eight hours, were several cataracts, where
+the stream rushes impetuously over the rocks, and carries its
+foaming current to the distance of several hundred feet; there is
+no where, however, any fall, that can be properly so called. All
+these cataracts resemble those of Assouan, but the river is more
+narrowly hemmed in by rocks than at the latter place; and its whole
+course through the Batn el Hadjar is so very rapid, that navigation
+of every kind seems to be quite impracticable. At the end of nine
+hours, we stopped at a hut of Omsherifs.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 9th.</em> To the east of Ambigo, there are high
+mountains; and to the south of it, the eastern chain decreases in
+height. The mountains of Ambigo seem to be the highest summit of
+the Batn el Hadjar. Our road lay alternately along the shore, and
+over the rocks; I no where saw any traces of an ancient road
+through this rugged district. In three hours we reached Wady Om
+Kanaszer (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اُم قناَصِر</span>), in
+which is a small watch-tower built of stones, upon a hill. From
+hence we followed a mountainous road as far as Wady Lamoule
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي لاموله</span>), which we
+reached in five hours; here are some cataracts in the river, and
+several rocky islands, upon which I saw crocodiles basking. At five
+hours and a half, we ascended the mountain; and in six hours gained
+a high summit, known by the name of Djebel Lamoule (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جبل لامولَه</span>), and corresponding with a
+similar one on the west side. At the foot of this hill, the Arabs
+repeat the custom of digging the traveller’s grave,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[49]</span> but as I knew not how often a
+present might in this way be demanded of me by my guide, I refused
+to give him any thing upon his making the demand; and as soon as he
+began to construct my tomb, I alighted, and making another, told
+him that it was intended for his own sepulture; for that, as we
+were brethren, it was but just that we should be buried together.
+At this, he began to laugh; we then mutually destroyed each other’s
+labours, and in riding along he exclaimed from the Coran, “No
+mortal knows the spot upon earth where his grave shall be digged.”
+Seven hours brought us to a sandy plain in the mountain, called
+Khor Sonk (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خور سُنك</span>), Sonk
+being a Wady, situated below it. As the road which leads to the
+country of the Sheygya turns off here, this spot is more frequently
+visited by them, than any other part of this rocky tract, and is
+noted for the many robberies committed here by those Arabs; my
+guide shewed me the place where his cousin had been killed, at his
+side, in an encounter with the Sheygya, and hurried me, at a full
+trot, over the plain. The whole of the Batn el Hadjar is dangerous
+for single travellers; but it was my good fortune not to meet with
+any banditti; should any European be inclined to make the same
+journey hereafter, he may procure at Derr as many guards to
+accompany him as he chooses, provided he previously arranges
+matters with the governors of Nubia.</p>
+
+<p>At eight hours and a half we issued from the mountains, and
+crossing a sloping plain, arrived, at the end of nine hours and a
+half, at the side of the river. The country opens here, and the
+eastern chain continues at about two miles distance from the river.
+At ten hours and a half, we halted for the night in a thick grove
+of tamarisk trees, opposite a long island, upon which are several
+brick ruins, and a tower of the same material. The ruins of a small
+village are upon the east bank: the place is called
+Wady<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[50]</span> Okame
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عقمه</span>); and here the
+dominions of the governor of Sukkot begin, although the Wady is
+considered to belong to the Batn el Hadjar. Close to the spot on
+which we slept is the tomb of a saint, Sheikh Okashe (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شيخ عُقاشه</span>), much revered by the Nubians.
+Offerings of earthen vessels, mats, and small pieces of linen, were
+spread within the enclosure of the tomb, and all around it. The
+inhabitants of Sukkot make frequent pilgrimages to this tomb. My
+guide, in constant dread of the Sheygya, would not allow me to
+light a fire, although the nights were now very cold.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 10th.</em> After a ride of two hours over low hills,
+in a S. S. W. direction, we arrived opposite the island of Kolbe
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قُلبه</span>), the northern
+extremity of Sukkot, and the residence of the governor of that
+district;<a id="FNanchor_50"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_50">[31]</a>
+the island is about one hour in length: the shore, on both sides,
+is hemmed in by huge masses of gray granite. Here some regular
+cultivation commences. I had a letter of recommendation from Hassan
+Kashef to the governor, who is an old man, named Daoud (David)
+Kara, distantly related to the three chief governors of Nubia,
+under whose control he holds his district. Being desirous of paying
+him a visit, in order to gain some information from him respecting
+the state of things farther southward, I left my guide to watch the
+camels, and with some Arabs, who had arrived at the place where we
+alighted, crossed the river upon a Ramous (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">راموس</span>). This kind of ferry boat is formed of four
+trunks of date-trees, tied loosely together, and is worked by a
+paddle about four feet in length, forked at the upper extremity,
+and lashed to the raft by ropes of straw. It precisely resembles
+those which are represented on the walls of the Egyptian temples.
+Persons who trust themselves upon such frail vehicles should be
+able to swim, for as these people have no idea of skulling, and use
+only one paddle to each Ramous, they row alternately<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[51]</span> to leeward and windward, so that
+the Ramous is never directed towards the shore. The old governor
+received me coolly; “This is not a country,” he said, “for people
+like you to travel in, without being accompanied by caravans.” I
+requested a letter of introduction to his son, who governs the
+southern parts of Sukkot, when he caused his scribe<a id="FNanchor_51"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_51">[32]</a> to write a few lines for me upon a blank
+corner of an old letter, the only paper that could be found. He
+repeatedly enquired my business; I answered, that I was the bearer
+of letters from Esne to the two Kashefs, who were at Mahass. After
+a stay of one hour I retired, recrossed the river, and continued my
+journey. We rode over mountainous ground, where the sand-stone
+again appears among the grauwacke and feldspath, until, at two
+hours and a half from Kolbe, we reached Wady Dal (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي دال</span>), which may be called the
+southern extremity of the Batn el Hadjar. At Dal the river is
+interrupted by immense blocks of granite lying confusedly across
+it, occasioning several foaming cataracts, and forming many rocky
+islands; upon one of these is a large brick building, in ruins.
+Here the country opens, and we continued for half an hour along a
+cultivable shore, overgrown with date trees, amongst which was a
+ruined village, called Dabbe. One hour farther, still following the
+plain by the side of the river, we arrived at the village of
+Zergamotto (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">زرقَمطو</span>), where
+we slept. The inhabitants of Zergamotto bring rock salt from
+Selyma, distant two long<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[52]</span> days and a half in the western desert, and a
+halting-place of the Darfour caravan, in its way to Siout. Whenever
+this caravan passes Selyma, the Nubians resort thither, to sell
+dates and other provisions to the travellers. Rock salt is found
+also in every part of the eastern mountain from Kenne southward,
+and the peasants of Egypt and Nubia collect it; but it has a very
+disagreeable bitterish-sweet taste.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 11th.</em> From Dabbe our road lay S. by W. We rode
+along the bank of the river; where the plain is about two miles in
+breadth, but for the greater part barren. The river continues to be
+full of low islands, and rocks. In one hour and a half we came to a
+cluster of small hamlets, called Ferke (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فرقه</span>). In the plain are five barrows, or tumuli,
+evidently artificial, like those I saw near Kosko.<a id="FNanchor_52"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_52">[33]</a> The son of the governor of Sukkot, to
+whom I had the letter of recommendation, lives upon an island at
+Ferke. We stopped opposite the island to bait our camels upon the
+tamarisk trees; and as this place, according to the injunction of
+Hassan Kashef, was to be the termination of my journey southwards,
+and the farthest point to which my guide was to conduct me, the
+latter insisted upon complying with the orders of his master. A
+promise, however, of two piastres and a woollen Melaye, worth as
+much, overcame his fidelity, and he agreed to accompany me to
+Mahass; “If Hassan Kashef,” said he, “upbraids me, I shall tell him
+that you rode on, notwithstanding my exhortations, and that I did
+not think it honourable to leave you alone.” My plan was, to reach
+Tinareh, the chief place in Mahass, and there to cross over to the
+western side, as I knew that the Kashefs, who were encamped there,
+had a vessel at their disposal. On my way back, I intended to visit
+Say, and all the ruins on the western side.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[53]</span>Having no
+particular business with the governor of Ferke, I did not pay him a
+visit; but when he saw us riding on, he came gallopping after us on
+horseback, with one of his slaves, to enquire who we were, and
+insisted upon our returning with him to his house. In cases like
+this, compliance is always better than fruitless resistance; and we
+therefore crossed over the dry bed of a branch of the river to the
+island, where we found the whole neighbourhood assembled at the
+governor’s house, to partake of a cow slaughtered in honour of the
+same deceased relation, to whose funeral feast we had been invited
+at Endhana. The women who were present had a small drum; and some
+of them sang glees, in honour of the deceased, while others danced.
+Our host had a great desire to possess himself of my camels, and he
+would have done it, by giving me two others of no value instead of
+them, had it not been for his father’s letter. I excused my having
+rode on by saying that I thought his residence had been farther to
+the southward. He insisted that we should stay all the night with
+him; but as I knew this was only to extort a present from me, I
+gave him a large piece of soap, after which he suffered us to
+depart. From hence to Say, the route is W. 1 S. In two hours, we
+reached Mekrake (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مقرقه</span>). Four
+hours, Kennis (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قِنّس</span>). The
+plain is cultivated in a few spots only. Senna mekke grows in
+quantity, and is of a good quality, though still inferior to that
+of the Eastern mountain; it is collected here by the Arabs
+Kerrarish, whenever there is any demand for it at Esne.<a id="FNanchor_53"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_53">[34]</a> The western borders of the river are
+quite sandy and barren. Five hours, Sheikh Medjdera (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شيخ مجدره</span>), a small village built round
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[54]</span> tomb of a saint.
+Here, as in every other part of Nubia, the thirsty traveller finds,
+at short distances, water-jars placed by the roadside, under a low
+roof. Every village pays a small monthly stipend to some person to
+fill these jars in the morning and again towards evening. The same
+custom prevails in Upper Egypt, but on a larger scale; and there
+are small carawanserais often found near the wells,<a id="FNanchor_54"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_54">[35]</a> which supply travellers with water. In
+five hours and a half, we reached Aamara (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عَماره</span>), the extremity of the territory of Sukkot,
+to the south of which begins the district of Say.</p>
+
+<p>In the plain of Aamara are the ruins of a fine Egyptian temple:
+the shafts of six large columns of the pronaos remain, constructed
+of calcareous stone, and they are the only specimen of that kind I
+have seen, all the Egyptian temples being built of sand-stone. The
+sculptures upon these columns are in imitation of those of Philæ,
+and are of middling execution; but much better than those of the
+temple at Derr: the figure of the ibis most frequently occurs: over
+each compartment or group of figures is a square blank tablet, as
+if to receive an inscription; the same thing is seen at Dakke,
+Kalabshe, and Philæ; but not in the more northern Egyptian temples.
+All the capitals of the columns are wanting. Of the cella nothing
+remains but mounds of rubbish, except the lowest part of the walls,
+and their foundations, which are of stone, reposing upon a
+substructure of bricks burnt in the sun: the walls were probably
+built of alternate layers of stone and brick. A thick enclosure of
+brick surrounds the site of the temple, at about fifty yards
+distance from the columns. The temple appears to have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[55]</span> been erected at the period when
+Egyptian architecture began to degenerate; the finest specimens are
+found at Philæ and Dakke.</p>
+
+<p>From Aamara a wide plain opens: the eastern chain making a wide
+circuit, while, to the west, the mountains terminate. The
+cultivable soil on the east side is nearly one mile and a half in
+breadth; and between it and the mountains is a barren tract covered
+with small flints and pebbles, similar to that at Suez. Here the
+river has many windings. In seven hours we came to Ebar
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اَِبر</span>), where we slept, at
+the house of one of the women of the brother of Hassan Kashef; for
+the governors of Nubia have a number of women dispersed over their
+dominions, in order that they may find a comfortable home wherever
+they stop, in their unceasing journeys through them. Hosseyn Kashef
+has about twenty wives, each of whom has her own separate
+establishment. In the inner court-yard of the lady’s house where we
+stopped was a well, and water-wheel, turned by cows; by means of
+which the surrounding fields were irrigated: similar wheels are
+every where met with, but this was the only instance I saw of their
+being within the walls of a dwelling. During this day’s march our
+camels were constantly at a trot.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 12th.</em> Our road lay over a quartzy plain, in a
+direction S. 1. E. At one hour is a high insulated hill, in the
+plain, called Djebel Ollaky, (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جبل
+عُلاقي</span>). Here the island of Say (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ساي</span>) begins. In one hour and a quarter, I saw upon the
+island, close to the water, the castle of Say, built of alternate
+layers of stone and bricks, with high walls. The few guns which
+were formerly in it had been carried off by the Mamelouks. Say,
+with its territories, like Ibrim and Assouan, has its own governor,
+or Aga, who is independent of the governors of Nubia; it having
+been, like the two former places, garrisoned by a troop of Bosnian
+soldiers, sent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[56]</span> hither
+by Sultan Selym, whose descendants still remain. The island is well
+cultivated on its eastern side, where the principal branch of the
+stream runs; on the west side, it appeared to be quite barren; its
+breadth is about two miles. In the middle of it is a high hill or
+mountain. There is a ford on the west side, at this period of the
+year, which I intended to cross, on my return from Mahass, in order
+to examine the island; but in this I was disappointed, as will
+presently appear. There is no Ramous or ferry in any part of it,
+and when the Nubians have any business on the opposite shore, they
+swim over, with their spear, or lance, fastened on the top of the
+head. I have reason, however, to believe, that there are no remains
+whatever of antiquity on Say, except the above-mentioned castle,
+which is probably of the same date as that at Ibrim.</p>
+
+<p>In two hours and a half from Ebar the road takes a S. W.
+direction, and continues close to the river, opposite Say; a thick
+grove of palm trees lining the shore. In three hours we came to
+Koeyk (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قويق</span>): the plain is
+here covered with the tombs of Nubian saints. Four hours, Wady der
+Hamyde, opposite to which is the southern extremity of the island
+of Say. The Wady Hamyde has a king, or Melek, of the Arab tribe of
+Hamyde,<a id="FNanchor_55"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_55">[36]</a> who is tributary to the
+governors of Nubia. On the east side of the river is a large pier
+or jetty, formed of huge sand-stones confusedly thrown in upon each
+other. On both sides are numerous habitations, and thick groves of
+date-trees; indeed Wady Hamyde seemed to be more populous than any
+part of the country south of Ibrim. The dates of Sukkot and Say are
+preferred to those of Ibrim, and are considered superior to all
+that grow on the banks of the Nile, from Sennaar down to
+Alexandria: they are of the largest kind, generally three inches in
+length. As there is no navigation northwards<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[57]</span> through the Batn el Hadjar, these dates
+reach the northern parts of Nubia only in small quantities, as
+presents. They are sold to the Arabs Sheygya, who arrive here in
+large caravans, and take them in exchange for Dhourra (one measure
+of Dhourra for an equal measure of dates), for butter, and for
+targets made of the skin of the hippopotamus, which are highly
+prized by the Nubians; there are few date trees in the country of
+the Sheygya, and those of a bad kind. Five hours brought us to Wady
+Aboudy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي عبودي</span>), opposite
+to which, in the eastern plain, is a high insulated hill. Here the
+river takes a direction S. S. E. The sandy and quartzy plain
+continues, and the eastern mountain is from twelve to fifteen miles
+distant from the river. Six hours, Irau (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اِرَو</span>); here many of the houses are abandoned, and
+there is very little cultivation. This is the southern limit of the
+district of Say, which name, though properly confined to the island
+only, is commonly applied to the whole country between Sukkot and
+Mahass. From hence, southwards, begins the Dar el Mahass. Our route
+now lay S. 1 W. To the west, the low hills again begin to form a
+chain, which increases in height towards the south. In seven hours
+we reached Eshamotto (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اشامطّو</span>). Eight hours and a half, El Waouy
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الواوي</span>), a considerable
+village. The river here takes a circuitous bend to the westward. We
+made a short cut across the plain, and at the end of nine hours and
+a half, halted for the night at a few huts of Kerrarish Arabs. I
+put our hosts into good humour by distributing some Dhourra amongst
+them; to testify their gratitude, two of them kneeled down by my
+side, and began rubbing and <em>kneading</em> my body, legs, and
+arms, in the same manner as is done in the Turkish baths. After a
+fatiguing journey, the limbs are benumbed; this operation restores
+the circulation of the blood, and induces a gentle slumber.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[58]</span><em>March
+13th.</em> The eastern mountains again approach the river, and
+consist here, as at the second Cataract, of grunstein. We followed
+the narrow shore in an easterly direction, and passed several of
+the villages of Mahass. The houses are constructed only of mats,
+made of palm leaves, fastened to high poles, the extremities of
+which rise considerably above the roof. The countenances of the
+people are much less expressive of good nature than those of the
+Nubians; in colour they are perfectly black; their lips are like
+those of the Negro, but not the nose, or cheek bones; numbers of
+the men go quite naked, and I even saw several grown up girls
+without any thing whatever round the middle. The Nubian language
+here has certainly superseded the Arabic, which none of the
+peasants understand.</p>
+
+<p>In approaching the place where the Nubian governors were
+encamped, I found several of the villages deserted; their former
+inhabitants had preferred abandoning their cotton fields, and their
+prospects of a harvest, to submitting to the oppressive conduct of
+the followers of the governors, whose horses and camels were now
+feeding amidst the barley, while the mats of the deserted houses
+had been carried off to the camp, to serve as fuel. After a ride of
+four hours, we reached the camp of Mohammed Kashef, opposite the
+Wady Tinareh, a cluster of hamlets, situated round the brick castle
+of that name, and the chief place in Mahass; here was the
+termination of my journey southwards. I had told my guide to be
+cautious in his answers to Mohammed Kashef, and if he should be
+questioned respecting me, to say that he had been ordered by Hassan
+Kashef to accompany me, but knew nothing of my business; which was
+really true; for I had never allowed him to see me taking notes
+during our journey.</p>
+
+<p>The two brothers, the Kashefs Hosseyn and Mohammed, had come to
+Mahass, in order to besiege the castle of Tinareh,
+which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">[59]</span> had been seized
+by a rebel cousin of the king of Mahass. The latter being Hosseyn
+Kashef’s father-in-law, the Kashef was bound to come to his aid,
+and had accordingly brought with him about sixty men, with whom I
+found him encamped, or rather hutted, on the western side of the
+river, close under the walls of the castle, while his brother
+Mohammed had possession of the eastern bank, with an equal number
+of men. They had been here for several weeks, and had often
+summoned the castle, to no purpose, although the garrison consisted
+only of fifteen men. They at length conceived the idea of cutting
+off the water from the besieged, by placing close in shore, just
+below the castle, a vessel, which they had sent for from Argo, and
+on board of which they put some men armed with musquets, who were
+protected from the fire of the garrison by a thick awning formed of
+the trunks of date trees thrown across the deck; these men, by
+their fire, having effectually prevented the besieged from
+obtaining water from the river, the garrison was under the
+necessity of making proposals for peace; pardon, and safe conduct,
+were promised them, and the castle was surrendered on the evening
+preceding my arrival.</p>
+
+<p>When I reached the camp of Mohammed Kashef, he was not present,
+but occupied, with his brother, in taking possession of the castle.
+His people crowded round me and my guide, desirous to know what
+business had brought me among them, and supposing that I belonged
+to the suite of the two Mamelouk Begs, of whose arrival at Derr
+they had already been apprized. Shortly afterwards, Mohammed came
+over from the opposite bank with his suite, and I immediately went
+to salute him. Born of a Darfour slave, his features resembled
+those of the inhabitants of Soudan, but without anything of that
+mildness which generally characterizes the Negro countenance. On
+the contrary, his physiognomy indicated the worst disposition; he
+rolled his eyes at me like a mad-man;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[60]</span> and, having drank copiously of palm-wine at
+the castle, he was so intoxicated, that he could hardly keep on his
+legs. All his people now assembled in and around his open hut; the
+vanquished rebels likewise came, and two large goat skins of palm
+wine were brought in, which was served out to the company in small
+cups neatly made of calabashes; a few only spoke Arabic; the Kashef
+himself could scarcely make himself understood; but I clearly found
+that I was the topic of conversation. The Kashef, almost in a state
+of insensibility, had not yet asked me who I was, or what I came
+for. In the course of half an hour, the whole camp was drunk;
+musquets were then brought in, and a feu-de-joie fired, with ball,
+in the hut where we were sitting. I must confess, that at this
+moment I repented of having come to the camp, as a gun might have
+been easily levelled at me, or a random ball have fallen to my lot.
+I endeavoured several times to rise, but was always prevented by
+the Kashef, who insisted upon my getting drunk with him; but as I
+never stood more in need of my senses, I drank very sparingly.
+Towards noon, the whole camp was in a profound sleep; and in a few
+hours after, the Kashef was sufficiently sober to be able to talk
+rationally to me. I told him that I had come into Nubia to visit
+the ancient castles of Ibrim and Say, as being the remains of the
+empire of Sultan Selym; that I had had recommendations from Esne to
+himself and his two brothers, and that I had come to Mahass merely
+to salute him and his brother, conceiving that I should be guilty
+of a breach of good manners if I quitted Say without paying my
+respects to them. Unfortunately, my letters from Esne, addressed to
+the three brothers, were in the hands of Hassan Kashef, who would
+not return them to me when I quitted Derr, saying that I should not
+want them, as he had not given me permission to go beyond Sukkot.
+My story was, in consequence, not believed:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[61]</span> “You are an agent of Mohammed,” said the
+Kashef’s Arabic secretary; “but, at Mahass we spit at Mohammed
+Aly’s beard, “and cut off the heads of those who are enemies to the
+Mamelouks.” I assured him that I was not an enemy of the Mamelouks,
+and that I had waited upon the two Begs at Derr, who had received
+me very civilly. The evening passed in sharp enquiries on the one
+side, and evasive answers on the other; and the Kashef sat up late,
+with his confidents, to deliberate what was to be done with me,
+while I took post with my camels, under cover, behind his hut. No
+one had the slightest idea that I was an European, nor did I, of
+course, boast of my origin, which I was resolved to disclose only
+under the apprehension of imminent danger. In the night a messenger
+was sent across the river to learn Hosseyn Kashef’s opinion
+respecting my arrival.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 14th.</em> Early in the morning, Hosseyn Kashef came
+over with a number of his men, to pay a visit to his brother, and
+to have a look at me. The same questions were again repeated, and
+the like answers returned, as on the preceding evening; but
+Hosseyn’s behaviour towards me was more gentle than that of his
+brother; for while the latter was constantly threatening to send my
+head to Ibrahim Beg, the chief of the Mamelouks, the former
+contented himself with telling me that I might return; but he
+begged I would leave my two camels and my gun with him; my pistols
+I had concealed under my wide Egyptian cloke. I at last plainly
+told the two brothers, that if any thing should happen to me, their
+mercantile speculations at Esne would certainly be the worse for
+it; that they had only to send to Derr, to be convinced of the
+truth of my story; that were I even, as they supposed, an agent of
+Mohammed Aly, they might be assured that he was not a man who would
+suffer any person in his employ to perish treacherously without
+revenging his death; but that being,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[62]</span> as I told them, simply a traveller, they
+could have no pretext whatever for detaining me, or offering any
+insult to my person. These and many other arguments at last made
+some impression on the two chiefs; but I am very doubtful, what
+might have ultimately been my fate, had it not been for the arrival
+of two nephews of the governor of Sukkot, on a visit to their
+relations; they confirmed all I had stated, having seen the strong
+letter of recommendation from Hassan Kashef, which I brought to
+their uncle, Daoud Kara. The language of the two brothers now
+changed; but I still continued an object of great distrust, as the
+newly-arrived visitors were unable to give any satisfactory account
+of my motives for coming so far. Hosseyn Kashef returned to the
+opposite shore, and promised to send me back the vessel to carry
+over me and my camels; but soon afterwards I saw her dropping down
+the river, and was informed that the camp was to break up the next
+day, and return by slow marches to Sukkot.</p>
+
+<p>Though extremely disappointed in my wish to visit the western
+bank of the Nile, yet I felt it would be madness to attempt to
+proceed farther southward. I was now without a friend or protector,
+in a country only two days and a half distant from the northern
+limits of Dóngola, the newly conquered kingdom of the Mamelouks,
+against whose interests I was suspected to be acting, while the
+governors of Mahass supported them; I knew, likewise, that the two
+Mamelouk Begs whom I had seen at Derr were rapidly advancing, and,
+from what I had heard of them, at that place, they might probably
+be inclined to intercept me on my return. Under these circumstances
+I determined to return northward immediately, as I did not think it
+prudent to travel in the company of the followers of Mohammed
+Kashef; but when I waited upon that chief to take leave of him, he
+abruptly told me to stay till the morrow, and to return in his
+company. Having already gained my principal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[63]</span> object, that of personal safety, which
+could only be owing to the governor’s secret fears of offending the
+Pasha of Egypt, I thought I might venture a little farther, and I
+therefore told the Kashef, that I was anxious to reach Derr as
+speedily as possible, and for this reason should not wish to
+proceed at such slow marches as his soldiers would make. When he
+still persisted in desiring me to defer my departure, in the hope,
+probably, of extorting some presents from me, I frankly told him
+that I should, from that moment consider myself as a prisoner in
+his camp, not having been permitted to act according to my own
+will; “Go then, you rascal!” (Inshi ya marras), he exclaimed, in
+his usual brutal language. I immediately obeyed him, and in five
+minutes was out of sight of the camp, where I had passed one of the
+most uncomfortable days I remember to have experienced during four
+years travelling. I slept that night in a deserted hut, four hours
+distant from Tinareh, near the Kerrarish encampment where we had
+alighted two nights preceding.</p>
+
+<p>It will here, perhaps, be asked, why I did not travel in Nubia
+as a merchant; the answer is, that merchants travel as far as
+Mahass only with slave caravans; they are, besides, obliged to
+tarry long in the countries they pass through, which was contrary
+to my views. I might, indeed, have carried merchandize with me,
+sufficient to purchase one or two slaves; but the people would then
+have said that it was not worth while to come to Mahass to make
+such a purchase, the profits upon which would not counterbalance
+the expenses of the journey from Esne and back again; and I should
+have thus been still suspected of being sent on a secret mission.
+On the other hand, had I carried goods with me equal to the value
+of half a dozen slaves, contributions would, in all probability,
+have been levied upon me by the governors, and I should have been
+detained much longer than I could have wished.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[64]</span>The inhabitants of
+Mahass pretend to be descendants of the Arabs Koreysh, the tribe to
+which the prophet Mohammed belonged, and who, as is well known,
+were partly Bedouins, and partly husbandmen. It is the tradition of
+Mahass, that a large party of Koreysh took possession of the Wady
+at the same period when numerous Bedouins from the East invaded
+Egypt and Nubia. The chief, or king of Mahass (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ملك الدار</span>) is of the family of Djama (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جامع</span>). He collects the revenue of his
+kingdom, and pays tribute to the governors of Nubia, who receive,
+annually, from each of the six principal places in his dominions,
+five or six camels, as many cows, two slaves, and about forty
+sheep, besides making extraordinary requisitions. I had the honour
+of seeing the king of Mahass, a mean looking black, attended by
+half a dozen naked slaves, armed with shields and lances. From
+hence, along the Nile to Sennaar, about thirty-five days journies,
+there are upwards of twenty kings and kingdoms, every independent
+chief being styled Melek. The power of each of these
+petty-sovereigns is very arbitrary, as far as relates to exactions
+upon the property of his own subjects, but he dares not put any of
+them to death, without entailing upon his own family the
+retaliation of blood by that of the deceased. All the respectable
+inhabitants of Mahass are merchants; they buy slaves in Dóngola,
+Berber, and in the country of the Sheygya, and dispatch a caravan
+to Cairo twice a year; Mahass is the nearest place, in the Black
+country, from whence slave traders arrive at Cairo; the distance is
+about a thousand miles. A male slave in Mahass is worth from
+twenty-five to thirty Spanish dollars, a female, from thirty to
+forty. At Cairo they sell at a profit of one hundred and fifty per
+cent.; and the merchandize taken in return produces from two to
+three hundred per cent., or even more under the present
+circumstances, as the Mamelouks are eager purchasers. Dollars are
+the currency<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[65]</span> in
+concerns of great amount; but in trifling bargains, the medium of
+exchange is the measure of Dhourra, before mentioned,<a id="FNanchor_56"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_56">[37]</a> and the pike of linen cloth, of which
+shirts are made; thirty pike make a piece, which is worth one
+dollar; at Siout its value is two piastres, or two-sevenths of a
+dollar. The Nubians, from Derr to Dóngola, have no commercial
+intercourse with Darfour, or Bournou. An Arab told me, in Mahass,
+that Bournou was from twenty-five to thirty days journies distant
+from thence, but that there was scarcely any water on the road.</p>
+
+<p>The Wady Mahass extends two days beyond Tinareh; its principal
+places to the south are: Delligo, from two to three hours from
+Tinareh, on the east side of the river; farther on, Koke
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كوكّه</span>), on the west side:
+here is the last cataract in the Nile; one day’s journey from
+Tinareh, is Naoury (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نوري</span>), on
+the east side; then Berdje (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بِرجه</span>), and Ferreg (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فريك</span>) on the west side. Two days journeys from Tinareh,
+is Hannek (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حنق</span>), where the
+mountains which confine the Nile through the Wady Mahass terminate.
+South of Hannek, half a day’s journey, an island commences, called
+Mosho, with a village of the same name on the west bank; and close
+to it is the island of Argo, a long day’s journey in length, and
+belonging to Dóngola; there is a brick castle upon it, the only
+building of any size south of Mahass. Mosho is the northern limit
+of Dóngola. Between Argo and Dóngola, is the village or city of
+Handak, which I find laid down on the African maps. The river must
+take many considerable turnings in the Wady Mahass, as Mosho may be
+reached in one day and a half from Tinareh, by a road which lies
+over the mountains. The Jesuit missionaries, if I recollect right,
+visited Mosho in their way from Dóngola to the Great Oasis.</p>
+
+<p>The Wady Dóngola, where the Nubian language ceases to
+be<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[66]</span> spoken, extends
+southward on both sides of Argo, and of the numerous other islands
+formed in the river, for five days. South of Hannek, the immense
+plains of Dóngola commence; I was credibly informed that there are
+no rocks in this district, which, during the period of the
+inundation, presents a watery surface of from twelve to fifteen
+miles in breadth. Commerce is not so flourishing in Dóngola as it
+is in the states to the south of it; merchants being exposed to
+many vexations from the kings, as well as from the village chiefs,
+who seem to be almost independent of the former. A man’s property
+is valued, as in Nubia, by the number of water-wheels he possesses,
+and the revenue is collected from them. The Arabs Sheygya, since
+they have been in possession of a share of the revenue, take from
+the ground irrigated by each wheel, four Mhourys<a id="FNanchor_57"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_57">[38]</a> of Dhourra, two or three sheep, and a
+linen gown worth two dollars. The native kings take the same.
+Dóngola is noted for its breed of horses, great numbers of which
+are imported by the people of Mahass; they are chiefly stallions,
+the natives seldom riding mares. The breed is originally from
+Arabia, and is one of the finest I have seen, possessing all the
+superior beauty of the horses of that country, with greater size
+and more bone. All those which I have seen had the four legs white,
+as high as the knee, and I was told that there are very few of them
+without this distinctive mark. Prime stallions bear a high price,
+from five to ten slaves being paid for one. These horses do not
+thrive in northern climates, not even at Cairo, though Mohammed Aly
+has lately sent one as a present to the Grand Signior, for which he
+gave 750 Spanish dollars. The greater part of them are fed for ten
+months in the year merely on straw, and in the spring, upon the
+green crops of barley. The Mamelouks,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[67]</span> since their irruption into Dóngola, are all
+mounted upon these horses.</p>
+
+<p>There are no elephants in Dóngola; but the hippopotamus is very
+common in the river. Its Arabic name is Barnik (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">برنيق</span>), or Farass-el-Bahr (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فَرَس البَحر</span>), the Nubians call it Ird.
+It is a dreadful plague on account of its voracity, and the want of
+means in the inhabitants to destroy it. It often descends the Nile
+as far as Sukkot: the peasants, as I passed, told me that there
+were three of them in the river between Mahass and Sukkot. Last
+year several of them passed the Batn el Hadjar, and made their
+appearance at Wady Halfa and Derr, an occurrence unknown to the
+oldest inhabitant. One was killed by an Arab, by a shot over its
+right eye; the peasants ate the flesh, and the skin<a id="FNanchor_58"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_58">[39]</a> and teeth were sold to a merchant of
+Siout. Another continued its course northward, and was seen beyond
+the cataract at Assouan, at Derau, one day’s march north of that
+place.</p>
+
+<p>The city of Dóngola, by the natives called Dóngola el Adjouze
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دُنقله العجوزه</span>), Old
+Dóngola, or more properly Tongol (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تُنكُل</span>), is equal in size to Derr. The Bedouin tribe of
+Kobabish (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قبابيش</span>) reside in
+the country and are continually making incursions into Darfour,
+from whence they carry off slaves. Many individuals of the tribe of
+Ababde, of the eastern mountain, were also settled at Dóngola,
+where they had acquired great wealth, and influence; but, when the
+Mamelouks spread themselves over the country, as will be presently
+related, they retired with their chief, Hay (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حاي</span>), to Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>South of Tongol, or Dóngola, proceeding along the banks of the
+Nile, the following places are met with; near Tongol, Afar
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">افار</span>), then Daffar
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دَفّار</span>); Hattany
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حَتّاني</span>); Kennat
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كنّات</span>); and
+Ambougo<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[68]</span> (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">امبوكو</span>), which last is three days
+journies from Tongol, and seven or eight from Argo.<a id="FNanchor_59"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_59">[40]</a> Here the territory of Dóngola terminates,
+being divided from that of the Arabs Sheygya by a mountainous rocky
+tract, two hours journey in breadth, reaching close to the river,
+and forming the recommencement of the chain which terminates at
+Hannek. On the south side of this tract, or rather the east side,
+for the river here flows in the direction from east to west, the
+country of the Sheygya commences; the first city or village (Beled
+or Wady) is Gos (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قوس</span>),
+inhabited by the tribe Onye; then follows Hannek el Zebeyr
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حَنق الزبير</span>), inhabited by
+another tribe so called; farther on is Dar Essorab (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دار الصُوراب</span>); Koreyr (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كُرير</span>); Koray (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قُرَي</span>); Abramnar (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابرمنار</span>); Wosta (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وَسطه</span>); Tongazy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تُنكاسي</span>); Koro (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قُرو</span>); Kadjeba (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قَجبه</span>), Merawe (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مروه</span>), a singular coincidence in sound with the ancient
+Meroë; Bargal (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بركل</span>); Noury
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نوري</span>); Kasandjar
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كَسنجر</span>); Hamdab
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حمداب</span>); Oly (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اولي</span>); Zoara (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">زواره</span>); and Dollago (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دلاكو</span>); where terminates the territory of the Sheygya,
+the whole length of which may be estimated at from thirty-five to
+forty hours march. The principal of the above enumerated places
+are, Koray, Kadjeba, and Merawe, the two latter being situated, on
+the banks of the river, nearly opposite each other. Merawe may be
+considered as the capital, or chief residence, of the Sheygya; it
+has a castle built of brick. Between the city of Dóngola and Merawe
+is the Wady of the Arabs called Bedeyr (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بدير</span>), whose chiefs have, till lately, been tributary
+to the Sheygya. There is a short road from Dóngola to Merawe, over
+the desert, of two days and a half. From Mahass to Merawe, over the
+mountains, is seven or eight days easy journeys; but there is no
+water on the road.<a id="FNanchor_60"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_60">[41]</a>
+The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[69]</span> valley of the
+Nile throughout the country of the Sheygya is no where more than
+three miles in breadth; in several parts of the river are small
+cataracts, where the mountains on each side nearly join. There are
+few crocodiles in this part of the river, and the hippopotamus is
+not met with. The tree most frequently seen on the banks of the
+stream is the Sant, or acacia; date trees are scarce. Dhourra, and
+the grain called Dhoken, are the most common productions of the
+fields, which are irrigated in the summer by means of water-wheels.
+The country is as well inhabited as the most populous parts of
+Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>The Sheygya, of whom I have seen only one individual, at Mahass,
+are certainly a very interesting people, and form the most powerful
+state to the north of Sennaar. They have a tradition that their
+forefather was a man of the name of Shayg (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شايق</span>), whose four sons gave origin to their
+principal tribes. At present they are divided into many tribes, of
+which the Adelanab is the most powerful, being that of the great
+chief; the others are: El Hamdan (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حمدان</span>); Essoleymane (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سليماني</span>); and El Amrab (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الامراب</span>); to these may be added the tribes of Onye,
+Zebeyr (which must not be confounded with the royal family of Argo,
+to which they have no relationship), and the Arabs Menasyr
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عَرَب المناصِر</span>), who inhabit
+the Wady Menasyr, to the east of the country of the Sheygya, and
+who, although not strictly belonging to the Sheygya, may, from
+their intimate connection with them, be enumerated among their
+tribes.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[70]</span> These
+different people are continually at war with each other, and their
+youth make plundering excursions as far as Darfour, to the west,
+and Wady Halfa, to the north. They all fight on horseback, in coats
+of mail (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ذرع</span>), which are sold
+to them by the merchants of Suakin and Sennaar. Fire-arms are not
+common among them, their only weapons being a lance, target, and
+sabre; they throw the lance to a great distance with much
+dexterity, and always carry four or five lances in the left hand,
+when charging an enemy. They are all mounted on Dóngola stallions,
+and are as famous for their horsemanship, as the Mamelouks were in
+Egypt; they train their horses to make violent springs with their
+hind legs when gallopping; their saddles resemble the drawings I
+have seen of those of Abyssinia, and, like the Abyssinian horsemen,
+they place the great toe only in the stirrup. It is from the
+Sheygya that the people of Mahass are supplied with saddles.</p>
+
+<p>The Sheygya are a perfectly independent people, and possess
+great wealth, in corn and cattle; like the Bedouins of Arabia, they
+pay no kind of tribute to their chiefs, whose power is by no means
+so great as that of the chiefs of Dóngola. They are renowned for
+their hospitality; and the person of their guest, or companion, is
+sacred. If the traveller possesses a friend among them, and has
+been plundered on the road, his property will be recovered, even if
+it has been taken by the king. They all speak Arabic exclusively,
+and many of them write and read it. Their learned men are held in
+great respect by them; they have schools, wherein all the sciences
+are taught which form the course of Mohammedan study, mathematics
+and astronomy excepted. I have seen books, copied at Merawe,
+written in as fine a hand as that of the scribes of Cairo. Whenever
+young men are sent to them from the adjacent countries for
+instruction, the chief of the Olema distributes them amongst his
+acquaintances, in whose<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[71]</span> houses they are lodged and fed for as many
+years as they choose to remain.</p>
+
+<p>Such of the Sheygya as are soldiers, and not learned men,
+indulge in the frequent use of wine and spirits made from dates.
+The manners of their women are said to be very depraved. The
+merchants among them travel to Darfour, Sennaar, and Suakin; and,
+in years of dearth in Arabia, they export wheat and Dhourra to the
+Djidda market, by the way of Suakin. A caravan of pilgrims departs
+annually to these two places. Suakin is twelve days journeys
+distant from the borders of the country of the Sheygya.</p>
+
+<p>Having thus endeavoured to give some account of Dóngola, and the
+countries bordering upon it, I shall now add a few words respecting
+its political relations at the period of the irruption of the
+Mamelouks, and the consequences of that event, as far as they were
+known when I visited Mahass. According to the relation of the
+Arabs, Dóngola had been governed from time immemorial by the
+families of Zebeyr (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">زبير</span>) and
+Funnye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فنيه</span>), the former
+ruling over the northern provinces and the latter over the
+southern; but, in latter times, these families had only possessed
+the shadow of power, the real government being in the hands of the
+Sheygya. These Arabs had been accustomed to make continual
+incursions into Dóngola, and to lay waste whole districts; until at
+length, after the principal men of Funnye had been slain, the
+chiefs of Dóngola, forced by the remonstrances of their people,
+entered into a treaty with the invaders, and gave up to them the
+half of the revenue as the price of their forbearance: from that
+period they lived on amicable terms with each other; but as the
+Sheygya chiefs resided occasionally at Dongola, at Handak, and at
+Argo, in order to collect their share of the revenue, and had thus
+the means of acquiring influence in every part of the country,
+their authority soon began to preponderate. When the
+Mamelouk<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[72]</span> Begs reached
+Argo, in their flight from Egypt, as I have already
+related,<a id="FNanchor_61"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_61">[42]</a> they were received by the
+great chief of the Sheygya, Mahmoud el Adelanab (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">محمود آلدلَناب</span>), with the wonted
+hospitality of his nation; and as they then declared that their
+intention was to settle in Sennaar, he made them considerable
+presents in horses, camels, slaves, and provisions. These
+treacherous fugitives, however, had not been a month at Argo, when,
+upon some slight pretext, they killed their benefactor, with
+several of his attendants; and then spreading themselves over the
+country, plundered the property of the Sheygya, and seized upon the
+revenue. In this state of things, one of the kings of the Zebeyr
+family joined the Mamelouks against the Sheygya; while the other,
+his brother, named Toubol ibn Zebeyr, repaired to Egypt, to seek
+for aid in men and arms against the new invaders,<a id="FNanchor_62"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_62">[43]</a> who were joined by another body of
+Sheygya, amounting to about eighty horsemen, the inveterate enemies
+of the tribe of Mahmoud el Adelanab. The Mamelouks have since been
+at continual war with the Sheygya, and several individuals have
+been slain on both sides. In January last, the former made an
+expedition, with their whole force, towards Merawe; but, while they
+proceeded southward, a party of Sheygya crossed the mountains, and
+falling on the rear of the Mamelouks, killed the few followers whom
+they had left at Argo and Handak, and plundered what remained of
+their property. This was the state of the country, when I was at
+Tinareh: the Sheygya were still at Argo, the result of the
+expedition against Merawe was then unknown, and the partizans of
+both sides spread the most contradictory reports. It was evident,
+that under such circumstances, the two Begs whom I saw at Derr
+could not rejoin<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[73]</span>
+their companions; it was supposed that they would wait the result
+of the contest, in the castle of Hannek, in Mahass, which is a
+strong place.<a id="FNanchor_63"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_63">[44]</a></p>
+
+<p>It appears to me that, in the present state of their affairs,
+the Mamelouks have only one alternative; either to strike a last
+desperate blow upon Upper Egypt, if the slightest opportunity
+should present itself, though the vigilance of Mohammed Aly leaves
+them little chance of success in that quarter; or, to endeavour to
+seize upon some harbour in the Red Sea, where they may recruit
+their strength by the importation of young Georgian slaves, no
+others being admitted among them. Massuah is the best situation for
+such a project; it is distant from their present position,
+twenty-two days; four days across the desert to Shendy, and
+eighteen days from thence to Massuah, for the most part along the
+cultivated banks of the Astaboras. I believe that the project of
+invading Abyssinia is really entertained by the Mamelouks; were
+they to attempt it, and succeed, a new and important branch of
+trade might be opened to the East India Company; but woe to the
+country occupied by these tyrannical and unprincipled slaves! At
+present, they have no money left, but they have plenty of slaves
+with them, with which they can purchase any thing; a slave being a
+kind of currency in the southern countries. Many of the Mamelouks
+died last summer from the effects of a putrid fever, which
+regularly prevails in Dóngola during the hot season, and carries
+off numbers of the inhabitants. Unable to bear the heat in their
+thick woollen dresses, which they still continue to wear, they
+constructed a number of rafts, on board of which they passed the
+whole of the summer, under awnings of mats, kept continually wet by
+their slaves.</p>
+
+<h3><span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[74]</span>RETURN FROM
+DAR-EL-MAHASS<br>
+TO ASSOUAN.</h3>
+
+<p><em>March 15th.</em> My guide, as it appeared, had received
+secret instructions to retard my march. At sunrise, I found him
+still asleep, contrary to the custom of the country, which is to
+rise at the break of day; and shortly after we had set out, he
+pretended that the camel he rode was lame, and unable to proceed at
+a trot. Seeing clearly that his intention was to allow Mohammed
+Kashef’s troops to come up with us, I told him that he might
+dismount, as I knew my way back to Derr perfectly well, and was
+determined to travel with all possible haste. On hearing this, he
+went on, but remained several times, during the day, at the
+distance of a mile behind me, thinking by this means to make me
+wait for him.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of proceeding across the desert to Waouy, we followed
+the river; in one hour and a half, from the place where we slept,
+we arrived opposite to Soleb (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">صُلب</span>), a fine village on the west bank. There I saw the
+ruins of a large temple, which it had been my intention to visit,
+after crossing the river at Tinareh. I offered some peasants, who
+were watering the fields upon an island opposite Soleb, all the
+Dhourra remaining in my provision sack, to carry me over, and back
+again, which, I think, was as much, as offering a guinea for a
+similar service to a London waterman; but there was no Ramous, nor
+any of those goat-skins, which when inflated, often serve as a
+conveyance on the Nile; and as I did not think it prudent to trust
+to my arms only, in swimming over, I was obliged pursue my route,
+without gratifying my curiosity. The temple appeared to have been
+of the size of the largest of those found in Egypt; the body of it
+seemed to be entire, with ten or twelve large pillars of the
+pronaos. I hope some other traveller<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[75]</span> will be more fortunate than myself, in being
+able to examine this ruin, which I believe to be the most southern
+specimen of Egyptian architecture; for I was credibly informed that
+no ancient buildings whatever are to be found in the southern parts
+of Mahass, or in Dóngola. It was, perhaps, a very fortunate
+circumstance for me, that I did not cross the river at Tinareh, and
+proceed down the western bank, as I should have again fallen in
+with the two Mamelouk Begs, who were proceeding rapidly southward
+on that side, and our meeting in this part of Nubia might not,
+perhaps, have been so friendly as it was when I visited them at
+Derr.</p>
+
+<p>In two hours we reached Waouy; two and a half, Eshamotto; three
+and a half Irau; four and a half, Wady Aboudy; six hours, Dar
+Hamyde; seven hours, Koeyk. The insulated mountain called Djebel
+Oellaky,<a id="FNanchor_64"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_64">[45]</a> bears N. E. by N. from
+Waouy. The western mountain, which may be said to terminate at the
+southern extremity of the Batn el Hadjar, in low sand hills, begins
+again to the west of the island of Say, and describing, from
+thence, a wide semicircle westward, joins the river again near
+Soleb. From Koeyk we crossed the stony plain, overspread with
+cornelians, quartz, and agate, and leaving the river, and the
+village Ebar, far to our left, arrived by a straight course at the
+village of Sheikh Medjdera, a part of Wady Aamara, where we slept,
+at the house of a man, whose father was from Damascus, and had
+married here.</p>
+
+<p>In order to explain the difference between the distances as
+noted in my journal up the river, and those on my return, it is to
+be observed that I travelled at a quick rate the whole of the way
+from Assouan to Derr, (except where prevented by the rocky nature
+of the ground), or at an average of four miles an hour, at the
+least. From Derr to Wady Halfa, it appears to me, that I went at
+the rate of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[76]</span> three
+miles and a half per hour; and through the Batn el Hadjar, three
+miles. From Sukkot to Mahass, again four miles an hour. On my
+return from Mahass to Sukkot the rate was three miles and a half an
+hour. From Sukkot to Derr, through the sands of the western shore,
+three miles an hour. From Der to Assouan I travelled only two miles
+in the hour, as I was fearful of injuring my camels by fatigue.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 16th.</em> We rode this day from sunrise to sunset,
+resting only one hour, opposite the island of Ferke, under a tent
+of Kerrarish. I have already described this route. The western bank
+of the river from Dal to opposite Aamara is a sandy desert with
+scarcely any interruption. The river is full of rocks as far as
+Aamara, where there is a trifling cataract; from thence southward
+it is quite free from rocks. To the east of Ferke and Zergamotto is
+a high mountain, called Djebel Mama (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جبل ماما</span>), at the foot of which are the tumuli or
+barrows before mentioned;<a id="FNanchor_65"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_65">[46]</a>
+this may be said to form the extremity of the Batn el Hadjar, on
+the east side. Opposite to it, on the west side, the mountains of
+this tract are terminated by low hills called Kitfukko
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قتفقو</span>). We recrossed the
+mountain from Dabbe to Kolbe in an E. N. E. direction, and arrived
+at sunset opposite the island of Kolbe. The principal rock met with
+in passing this mountain is feldspath, and close to the river are
+granite, and granite schist. I wished to pass the river at Kolbe;
+but as it was too late in the evening to attempt it, I sent over my
+guide to Daoud Kara, with my compliments, and a request that he
+would send me a supper, and on the morrow two men, to assist me in
+transporting my camels, and the little baggage I had, to the west
+bank of the river. The guide soon returned, with a promise of what
+I requested; and late in the night, a slave brought us some barley
+soup. We slept among the rocks over the water side. My Arab had
+been informed that the two Mamelouk Begs had passed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[77]</span> Kolbe two days before, on their
+way to Mahass, which was very agreeable intelligence to me.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 17th.</em> Two slaves came over, as promised, to
+assist us in crossing the river. The two camel’s saddles and the
+two sacks were placed upon the Ramous, at the head of which one of
+the slaves seated himself, to paddle it over, while the other took
+hold of the halters of the camels, with one hand, and the stern of
+the Ramous with the other; an inflated goatskin was tied to the
+neck of each camel, to aid it in swimming, but we had great
+difficulty to get them into the water, the Egyptian camels not
+being accustomed to this mode of passing the river. My guide
+stripped, and laid hold of the tail of his camel with one hand,
+while he urged the beast forward by a stick which he carried in the
+other. It was proposed to me to take my seat upon the Ramous, but
+finding that frail conveyance already too heavily laden, I followed
+the example of my guide, and placing my clothes upon the Ramous,
+swam over with my camel in the manner just mentioned. At Mahass the
+people are afraid to cross the river in this manner, on account of
+the crocodiles, so that the communication between the two shores is
+very irregular. The vessel, which the Kashefs had brought to
+Tinareh had no boatmen capable of towing it from one side to the
+other; if the wind was favourable, a few rags were put up to serve
+as sails, and were sufficient to carry the vessel across; but
+whenever the wind was contrary, two horses were attached to it by
+ropes, and being driven into the water, dragged the boat after them
+in swimming across.</p>
+
+<p>The governor of Sukkot had left Kolbe early in the morning, to
+go in search of a cow that was due to him, as tribute, from the
+chiefs of the Omsherifs in Batn el Hadjar; I therefore breakfasted
+with his slaves, and pursued my journey. Kolbe appears to be an
+artificial island; a deep canal, too regular to be the work of
+nature,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[78]</span> runs along
+the western side of it, and is dry in the spring season, so that we
+could at present wade across it. On the west side of this canal is
+a recess in the mountain, where is a plain that bears traces of
+former cultivation. There is a small village upon the island, and
+several ruins of brick buildings, one of which I entered, and was
+not a little surprised to find myself in a Greek chapel: figures of
+saints were painted in gaudy colours upon the walls, and the names
+of many visitors or pilgrims inscribed. The colours of the
+paintings are extremely well preserved, probably owing to the
+extreme dryness of the air of Nubia. I found the date <span class="overline">ΥC</span> to
+several of the names. It should seem from the quantities of brick
+ruins upon the islands of Batn el Hadjar, that the builders of
+those edifices were unable to hew the rocks of the neighbouring
+mountains, which are throughout of considerable hardness. In
+proceeding towards the northern limits of the island, I found a
+deep and wide well, lined on the inside, up to the top, with large
+stones. The rock on this side of the river is granite, crossed by
+strata of quartz three or four inches in thickness.</p>
+
+<p>From Kolbe we rode two hours and a half to Wady Okame, in the
+direction of N. N. E.; in the Batn el Hadjar the Wadys on both
+sides of the river bear the same name. We continued four hours in
+the Wady, where we saw only some ruined houses. From thence the
+road lies over high sandy hills. Six hours and a half, Wady Sonk:
+the sands here descend into the river like torrents; the northerly
+winds blew the sand directly in our faces, and greatly annoyed us.
+We supped at Wady Sonk, at the hut of a poor Arab woman, whose
+husband had gone to Derr to sell a few goats, and bring home
+Dhourra in return. A plant called Kharoua (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خروع</span>), which is also found in Upper Egypt, growing
+to the height of four or five feet, is cultivated here, as well as
+in several parts of the Batn el Hadjar; a medicinal oil is
+extracted from its fruit, with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[79]</span> which the people anoint their hair. The
+situation of most of these Wadys among the rocks and tamarisk trees
+is delightful, especially wherever the water is collected in little
+pools; but the gnats frequent the pools in such numbers, that we
+could get no rest for them, and we therefore quitted our station,
+when the moon rose, and halted again, half an hour farther, on the
+sands of the upper plain, at the foot of the mountain called Djebel
+Lamoule. We heard here the noise of the river rushing over the
+rocks at the foot of the western Lamoule.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 18th.</em> Our road lay over a high sandy plain, in
+the direction of E. by N.; insulated rocky hills rise above the
+plain, and form a hilly chain, much inferior in height to the
+mountains on the east side. At two hours the beginning of Wady
+Formoke (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي فرمكه</span>), lay
+several miles to our right, on the banks of the river. Three hours,
+Wady Om Kanaszer; here, upon a rocky island, are several brick
+ruins, and a tower of some size, of the same material. This place
+is inhabited by some Omsherifs, who cultivate a few acres of
+ground; they begged a little gunpowder of me to shoot the gazelles,
+which devour their harvest. These animals inhabit the western
+mountains in large herds, and regularly descend to the banks of the
+river during the night, to feed upon the herbage which grows there;
+I every morning found the sands above the river thickly covered
+with the traces of the delicate feet of this pretty animal. The
+Arabs have no other means of guarding their fields against them,
+than by setting up objects to frighten them; I frequently met with
+the grotesque figure of a hyena, formed of straw, and mounted upon
+legs of wood. The hyena inhabits the mountains on both sides of the
+river, and is the most formidable enemy of the gazelle. I did not
+hear of any other beasts of prey in these parts. In five hours we
+came to Wady Ambigo, or Ambougo, with large islands in the river.
+The high<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[80]</span> sandy plain,
+with insulated hills, continues on this side; and the Nile has many
+turnings. We always made a short cut over the mountain. Our road
+from Ambigo lay E. N. E. until at eight hours and a half, Wady
+Ambigo terminated; Djebel Doushe being on the eastern bank; the
+road for the greater part lies over a plain covered with what are
+called Egyptian pebbles; the mounds and hillocks on both sides of
+the road consist, for about three miles, of red porphyry. Ten
+hours, Wady Attyre, where we passed the house of the Melek of the
+Omsherifs, built of stone: this, and several other habitations, had
+been plundered and ruined last year by the Arabs Sheygya, who do
+not confine their depredations to the eastern side, but often cross
+the river, and lay waste the western shore. At ten hours and a
+half, we halted for the night opposite the hut of a Kerrarish
+family, who lived upon an island; they brought us some butter and
+milk, and received Dhourra in exchange. In the night, a little girl
+came over to us, and begged us to give her some Dhourra for her
+mother and herself, as the men never allowed them any bread. I
+satisfied her beyond her expectations; and early in the morning she
+returned with a pot of milk, as a present from her mother. I should
+observe, that my guide was known to this family, otherwise the girl
+would not have trusted herself, alone, among entire strangers. The
+high thorny shrub, called Syale (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سياله</span>) grows here in large quantities; it bears red
+berries, which are eaten by the Arabs.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 19th.</em> Our path, on setting out, lay along a
+narrow passage between rocks of granite, quartz, and feldspath; the
+direction north. In one hour and a half we returned to the banks of
+the river, near the northern extremity of Wady Attyre, opposite the
+Akabet el benat, on the eastern side.<a id="FNanchor_66"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_66">[47]</a> Throughout the Batn el Hadjar, there are
+a few date trees at intervals<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[81]</span> on the west bank, but not so many as on the
+east; no one claiming a property in these trees, their fruit is
+collected by the traveller. We again crossed the sands from Wady
+Attyre. In three hours, we reached Wady Samne (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي سَمنه</span>), near which is a cataract in the
+river: the stream forces its way through a narrow passage, not more
+than fifty paces in breadth, formed by two rocks, which project
+from the opposite sides. On the east side, upon a hill over the
+cataract, are some brick ruins; and, on the west side, are similar
+ruins, with an ancient temple on the top of the hill. It is built
+of sand-stone, and differs in its shape from other Egyptian
+temples, though it somewhat resembles in its plan the small temple
+of Elephantine. It consists of a principal building<img alt="" class="float-right iw9" src="images/i04.jpg" id="i04"> twelve
+paces in length, and three paces only in breadth. On each side,
+stood originally four small pillars, of which two remain on one
+side, and three on the other; one of the former has a polygonal
+shaft, the others are square; they are all covered with sculptures.
+The pillars are joined to the main building by blocks of stone,
+which serve as a roof to the vestibule. There are two small gates.
+The inner walls of the apartment are covered with hieroglyphics,
+and mystic representations of the divine worship. On both sides a
+long ship is sculptured, with Osiris in it; and the group of two
+figures resting their hands upon each others shoulders is every
+where repeated. The roof is painted blue, and there are some
+remains of colours upon several of the figures. Near the posterior
+wall, opposite the main entrance, a statue lies on the floor, the
+head of which has been cut off; it is about five feet high; the
+arms are crossed upon the breast, and in one hand is the flail, and
+in the other the instrument usually called a crosier. On the
+exterior wall of the temple I distinguished several figures of
+Mendes, or the Egyptian Priapus. All the sculptures are of coarse
+execution; and several of the lines<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[82]</span> of the compartments wherein the hieroglyphics
+are cut, are not straight, as if they had been the work of young
+persons only learning their art. Some of the hieroglyphics on the
+pillars have evidently been left unfinished; and even those which
+are completed, are badly and rudely done. A part of the wall
+appears to be of a different date from the rest, as it is
+constructed of stones much larger, and better hewn. There seems to
+have been another similar building near this temple, for several
+capitals of columns are lying on the ground, and a large block of
+granite covered with hieroglyphics. All around are heaps of
+rubbish. The temple is surrounded by ruined brick buildings, which
+are certainly of high antiquity; they cover the top of the hill
+which overhangs the shore, and are enclosed by a double wall, or
+rather by a wall within a parapet; the former is of brick, from
+eight to twelve feet thick, and wherever entire, upwards of thirty
+feet in height; the parapet is constructed of stone, twenty feet in
+breadth, with sides sloping towards the declivity of the hill; the
+stones of the parapet are thrown irregularly upon each other,
+without cement, but those which form the sloping side are either
+cut, or dexterously arranged, so as to present a perfectly smooth
+surface, which, at the period when the work was taken care of, must
+have rendered it impossible for any one to climb over it. These
+works of defence indicate powerful enemies; but who they were, it
+is impossible to ascertain. Did the forefathers of the Blemmyes
+disturb the hierarchy of Egypt, as their descendants afterwards did
+the Roman prætors?</p>
+
+<p>In four hours we arrived opposite the ruins of a brick tower, or
+small castle, upon a rocky island: here begins Wady Seras. Our road
+was N. E. over ground, covered with deep sand, and perfectly even,
+with the exception of a few low insulated hillocks. At five hours,
+the plain opens wide to the west, and the river takes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[83]</span> a winding course to the
+eastward. At the end of seven hours, in an E. N. E. direction, we
+came again to the side of the river. In eight hours and a half,
+reached the northern extremity of Wady Seras: an ancient brick
+castle, called Escot (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اسقُط</span>),
+stands upon an island. At the end of nine hours, we halted on the
+high shore, over the river, opposite a small island, on which was
+an Arab hut; we called out to its inhabitants, and one of them swam
+over to receive some Dhourra, of which the women made us bread.
+Doum trees grow here in plenty, and the fruit had already come to
+maturity. The tamarisk and acacia trees also abound.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 20th.</em> We rode over a sandy plain, in the
+direction of N. E. by E., and in two hours and a half, came again
+to the river at Wady Djayme (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي
+جيمه</span>). The face of the country here has a less rugged
+appearance; the river, for several miles, is free from rocks and
+islands, and a narrow strip of cultivable soil lines the shore. We
+met with an Arab, who was digging salt in the western hills: it is
+found in small white pieces, mixed with sand and stones; these are
+boiled in water, and when the salt is dissolved, the Arabs strain
+the solution through their shirts, and preserve it in large earthen
+vessels; whenever they are in want of salt, for their dishes, they
+pour a little of this brine over them. From hence the road along
+the shore was N. N. E. The rock here is entirely grünstein. In
+three hours and a half, we reached Wady Mershed. On the west side,
+opposite the island mentioned in my way southward, stand two
+detached brick buildings, a small Greek convent, and a church; in
+which some paintings of saints are still visible on the walls. The
+plain here is broader than in any other part of the Batn el Hadjar,
+and bears traces of former cultivation; it is now entirely
+deserted, although many date trees grow here. From hence northward,
+the face of the country gradually loses its wild aspect, and the
+eastern chain diminishes considerably in height. In
+four<span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[84]</span> hours and a half
+we came to three or four chapels, or dwellings of cenobites, close
+to, but detached from, each other: these may have been the
+habitations of ambitious monks, whom the fanaticism of party had
+driven from Constantinople into the deserts of Nubia. Five hours
+and a half, the river is again choked with rocks and islands, and
+continues so to the Cataract of Wady Halfa. Here the Wady Sulla
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سُلّه</span>) commences: the road
+ascends the sandy hills which skirt the narrow plain along the
+shore. On the top of these hills is an immense plain, in which are
+a number of small insulated hillocks, some of them so regular in
+their shape, as to appear like the work of art. In six hours, we
+reached the borders of the upper plain; overhanging the river are
+the remains of a considerable brick enclosure, about three hundred
+feet square, with a thick wall; it had probably served as a
+watch-tower; there are no ruins whatever within the area of the
+enclosure. At this place a distant view opens over the river and
+its islands, upon one of which, just below, are some brick ruins.
+In seven hours and a half we came again to the river; the road N.
+E. by E. At eight hours we passed the celebrated second Cataract of
+the Nile, or <em>The Cataract of Wady Halfa</em>, laid down in all
+the maps of Nubia under the name of the <em>Cataract of Jan
+Adel</em>.<a id="FNanchor_67"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_67">[48]</a>
+The cataract is formed by a part of the stream only, at most twenty
+yards in breadth; its fall is more rapid, and the noise and foam
+greater, than in any other place in the Batn el Hadjar, or than at
+the cataracts of Assouan; still, however, it little deserves to be
+called a Cataract, or Shellal (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شلّال</span>).<a id="FNanchor_68"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_68">[49]</a>
+There are three principal falls, or sloping rocks, one
+above<span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[85]</span> the other, over
+which the water descends with great velocity. The Arabs who inhabit
+some of the neighbouring islands, stretch a net across the fall,
+and in this way catch a considerable number of fish. The high hill
+on the west bank, close to the Cataract, forms the termination of
+the primitive rocks of the Batn el Hadjar; from thence northward,
+as far as the first Cataract, the rock is everywhere
+sand-stone.</p>
+
+<p>As the sun was near setting, when I viewed the Cataract, and our
+provisions, except Dhourra, were entirely exhausted, I was desirous
+of reaching some inhabited spot before night, and therefore
+proceeded at a quick trot. In the course of our passage over the
+sand hills we came opposite to Wady Halfa; and in ten hours reached
+the banks of the river in front of Sukoy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سقوي</span>), where I met with the remains of a temple,
+but in a very dilapidated state. The whole building is buried under
+mounds of sand and rubbish, except the<img alt="" class="float-right iw8" src="images/i05.jpg" id="i05"> fragments of shafts of
+columns, standing as described in the annexed figure. The four
+corner columns, and two of the side ones, are square, the others
+are round; they appeared to be about two feet and a half in
+diameter; no hieroglyphics, or sculptures, are visible, and the
+stones are in a very decayed state. The temple had been surrounded
+by a high brick wall, fragments of which are still seen. I observed
+no other<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[86]</span> remains of
+antiquity in my hasty view of this ruin. We continued at a brisk
+trot till the end of eleven hours and a half, when we again reached
+the bank of the river, opposite Dabrous, and crossed the dry bed of
+a branch of the stream to an island, where some Kerrarish Arabs
+were encamped, and we alighted at their tents, late at night, after
+a ride of twelve hours. I celebrated my safe return into the
+northern parts of Nubia by having a lamb, which I purchased of the
+Arabs for three measures of Dhourra, roasted for my supper. The
+island is thickly overgrown with tamarisk trees, which shoot up
+spontaneously upon all the islands whose surfaces consist of
+alluvial mud, and not of sand. I was informed, in the course of the
+night, that a caravan of sixty camels of the Arabs Sheygya had
+arrived at Wady Halfa, for dates. Although continually harassed by
+the predatory incursions of the Sheygya, the Nubians never offer
+any insult to the merchants of that nation, who visit their
+villages as friends.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 21st.</em> In passing over from the island to the main
+land, my dromedary<a id="FNanchor_69"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_69">[50]</a>
+sank into the mud, and it was with great difficulty that I saved
+it: these animals walk with a firm step through sands as high as
+their knee; but mud, the depth of an inch only, will make them
+stumble. In half an hour we passed the village of Argyn
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اركين</span>). The western shore,
+from the Cataract to this village, is quite barren, and continues
+so to the north of it, where deep sands cover the plain. In one
+hour and a half, we passed opposite to Eshke. Two hours and a half,
+saw the village of Debeyra, on the east bank; there is on that side
+an uninterrupted grove of date trees, from Eshke to Serra. Our road
+lay N. E. by N. In four hours and a half we came to Serra, nearly
+opposite the village<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[87]</span>
+of the same name, on the east side. At five hours, are the ruins of
+a small temple, not far from the river, in the midst of low sand
+hills: its main building is about twenty-four feet square; the roof
+has fallen in, and the lower parts only of the original walls
+remain; upon these the Greeks had raised mud walls, and converted
+the ruin into a church, which, in its turn, had become a mosque.
+There are no remains of columns; and the hieroglyphics, and other
+sculptures, which cover the walls, are worse executed than any I
+had seen, worse even than those at Samne, abovementioned. The
+fragments of a battle-piece may still be discerned upon the wall,
+and there is a very spirited, but rudely executed group of
+Briareus, seized by the hair, and under the victor’s knife, but
+protected by the out-stretched arm of Osiris; it differs from the
+similar representation so often repeated on the walls of the
+Egyptian temples; inasmuch as Briareus is not here a many-headed
+monster, but of the natural human form, holding in his arms a dying
+friend; both these figures have rings in their ears, and the hair
+of the head is cut like that of the Arabs of this part of Africa,
+in a form which has been mistaken for a cap by some travellers, in
+describing the same head-dress in the figures of the temples of
+Egypt. Opposite to this temple, on the east side, is the hamlet of
+Artynok (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ارتنوق</span>), which lies
+to the north of the eastern Serra. Five hours and a half, Faras,
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فَرَس</span>), opposite the fertile
+island of that name. The sand-hills of Serra continue till opposite
+Adhendhan; to the west is a wide plain, with insulated rocky hills.
+At seven hours is a ruined Greek church, the walls of which, in the
+lower half of their height, are of stone, and in the remainder of
+bricks. At seven hours and a half, we passed three sepulchres
+excavated in the sand-stone of a low range of hills; they are
+coarsely worked; in their interior are several Greek inscriptions
+of the time of the Lower Empire. Our road was now E. N.
+E.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[88]</span> Opposite Adhendan
+the western chain of mountains terminates, and some low hills,
+separated from the river by rising sandy ground, continue to the
+northward. In nine hours we reached the shore, opposite Kosko. Nine
+and a half, crossed the dry bed of a branch of the stream to the
+island of Ballyane; and alighted, at the end of eleven hours, at
+the huts of some Kerrarish Arabs, on its northern extremity,
+directly opposite the castle of Adde. All these islands are
+deserted during the period of the inundation.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 22d.</em> We recrossed, to the shore, over the sands
+left on the decrease of the waters, and passed the village of
+Ballyane (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بليني</span>). At one hour
+and a half, ascended a steep sandy mountain: the mountains on both
+sides are close to the river. On the east side is Wady Fereyg: on
+the west side the mountain bears the name of Ebsambal (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اِبسَمبَل</span>), probably a Greek word, the
+final syllable <em>bal</em> being a modification of <em>polis</em>.
+When we reached the top of the mountain, I left my guide, with the
+camels, and descended an almost perpendicular cleft, choaked with
+sand, to view the temple of Ebsambal, of which I had heard many
+magnificent descriptions. There is no road at present to this
+temple, which stands just over the bank of the river; but, it is
+probable, that some change may have taken place in the course of
+the stream, and that there may have been formerly a footpath along
+the shore, by which the temple was approached. It stands about
+twenty feet above the surface of the water, entirely cut out of the
+almost perpendicular rocky side of the mountain, and in complete
+preservation. In front of the entrance are six erect colossal
+figures, representing juvenile persons, three on each side, placed
+in narrow recesses, and looking towards the river; they are all of
+the same size, stand with one foot before the other, and are
+accompanied by smaller figures, which I shall presently
+describe.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[89]</span> They
+measure from the ground to the knee six feet and a half, and are
+placed in the following order: 1. A juvenile Osiris, with a narrow
+beard, and a tiara on his head, accompanied by two small upright
+figures, about four feet in height, one on each side of his legs.
+2. Isis, with Horus in her arms, and a small figure<img alt="" class="float-right iw8" src="images/i06.jpg" id="i06"> also, on
+each side; though coarsely executed, the expression of the
+countenance of the Isis is truly grand and benevolent. 3. A youth,
+with the usual high bonnet upon his head, his arms hanging down,
+and two small figures like the preceding. These are on one side of
+the door. On the other side is, 4. The same youth; 5. Isis, having
+the globe, encompassed by two serpents, upon her head; and 6. the
+youth a third time; each with the two small accompanying figures,
+as before. Of the small figures, some of those on the side last
+mentioned differ from the others in having the hair on the right
+side of the head falling in a thick bunch upon the right shoulder,
+while the left side is shaved. The spaces between the niches where
+the large figures stand, are covered with hieroglyphics. A small
+door leads into the pronaos of the temple, which is supported by
+six square columns, each three feet square: the pronaos is thirteen
+paces in length, and seven in breadth. The capitals of the columns
+represent heads of Isis, similar to those at Tintyra, except that
+they are in much lower relief, and in the same style as the
+sculptures on the walls of the temple; the ornament represented on
+these heads is in the form of a temple, and the hair falls down in
+two thick ringlets, differing in this respect, also, from the
+figures at Tintyra. The narrow cella is entered from the pronaos by
+one large, and two small gates; it is only three paces in depth,
+with a dark chamber on each side. The adytum is seven feet square;
+the remains of a statue, cut out of the rock, are visible in the
+back wall, and in the floor is a deep<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[90]</span> sepulchral excavation. The walls of the three
+apartments are covered with hieroglyphics, and the usual sacred
+figures of the Egyptian temples. The figures seem all to have been
+painted yellow, excepting the hair, which, in several of them is
+black; that of Isis is in black and white stripes. Offerings to
+Osiris of lotus and of leaves of the Doum tree, are frequently
+represented; and, as in all the Nubian temples, Briareus, beneath
+the hand of the victor, is repeated in several places; he is here
+again of the natural human form. The temple of Ebsambal seems to
+have been the model of that at Derr, to which I think it much
+anterior in date; it was no doubt dedicated to the worship of Isis.
+The style in which the sculptures are executed denotes high
+antiquity. A few paces to the north of the entrance, in the rock
+above it, is a bas-relief of Osiris, in a sitting posture, with a
+supplicant kneeling with extended arms before him: both figures are
+surrounded with hieroglyphic characters. I was afterwards informed,
+at Derr, that there is, near this temple, on the bank of the river,
+the statue of a man somewhat above the human size, with the
+Egyptian corn measure under his arm; and that it is completely
+overflowed during the inundation.</p>
+
+<p>Having, as I supposed, seen all the antiquities of Ebsambal, I
+was about to ascend the sandy side of the mountain by the same way
+I had descended; when having luckily turned more to the southward,
+I fell in with what is yet visible of four immense colossal statues
+cut out of the rock, at a distance of about two hundred yards from
+the temple; they stand in a deep recess, excavated in the mountain;
+but it is greatly to be regretted, that they are now almost
+entirely buried beneath the sands, which are blown down here in
+torrents. The entire head, and part of the breast and arms of one
+of the statues are yet above the surface; of the one next to it
+scarcely any part is visible, the head being<span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[91]</span> broken off, and the body covered with sand
+to above the shoulders; of the other two, the bonnets only appear.
+It is difficult to determine, whether these statues are in a
+sitting or standing posture; their backs adhere to a portion of
+rock, which projects from the main body, and which may represent a
+part of a chair, or may be merely a column for support. They do not
+front the river, like those of the temple just described, but are
+turned with their faces due north, towards the more fertile climes
+of Egypt, so that the line on which they stand, forms an angle with
+the course of the stream. The head which is above the surface has a
+most expressive, youthful, countenance, approaching nearer to the
+Grecian model of beauty, than that of any ancient Egyptian figure I
+have seen; indeed, were it not for a thin oblong beard, it might
+well pass for a head of Pallas. This statue wears the high bonnet
+usually called the corn-measure, in the front of which is a
+projection bearing the figure of a nilometer; the same is upon the
+bonnets of the two others: the arms are covered with hieroglyphics,
+deeply cut in the sand-stone, and well executed; the statue
+measures seven yards across the shoulders, and cannot, therefore,
+if in an upright posture, be less than from sixty-five to seventy
+feet in height: the ear is one yard and four inches in length. On
+the wall of the rock, in the centre of the four statues, is the
+figure of the hawk-headed Osiris, surmounted by a globe; beneath
+which, I suspect, could the sand be cleared away, a vast temple
+would be discovered, to the entrance of which the above colossal
+figures probably serve as ornaments, in the same manner as the six
+belonging to the neighbouring temple of Isis: I am also led to
+conjecture, from the presence of the hawk-headed figure, that this
+was a temple dedicated to Osiris. The levelled face of the rock
+behind the colossal figures, is covered with hieroglyphic
+characters; over which is a row of upwards of twenty sitting
+figures, cut out of the rock like the others, but so
+much<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[92]</span> defaced, that I
+could not make out distinctly, from below, what they were meant
+for; they are about six feet in height. Judging from the features
+of the colossal statue visible above the sand, I should pronounce
+these works to belong to the finest period of Egyptian sculpture;
+but, on the other hand, the hieroglyphics on the face of the rock
+are of very indifferent execution, and seem to be of the same age
+as those in the temple at Derr. A few paces to the south of the
+four colossal statues, is a recess hewn out of the rock, with steps
+leading up to it from the river; its walls are covered with
+hieroglyphic inscriptions, and representations of Isis, and the
+hawk-headed Osiris.</p>
+
+<p>The temple of Ebsambal serves as a place of refuge to the
+inhabitants of Ballyane, and the neighbouring Arabs, against a
+Moggrebyn tribe of Bedouins, who regularly, every year, make
+incursions into these parts. They belong to the tribes which are
+settled between the Great Oasis and Siout. When they set out, they
+repair first to Argo, where they commence their predatory course,
+plundering all the villages on the western bank of the river; they
+next visit Mahass, Sukkot, Batn el Hadjar, Wady Halfa, the villages
+opposite Derr, and lastly Dakke; near the latter place, they ascend
+the mountain, and return through the desert towards Siout. The
+party usually consists of about one hundred and fifty horsemen, and
+as many camel-riders: no one dares oppose them in Nubia; on the
+contrary, the governors pay them a visit, when they arrive opposite
+to Derr, and make them some presents. The incursions of this tribe
+are one of the principal reasons, why the greater part of the
+western bank of the Nile is deserted. Whenever they advance towards
+Ballyane, its inhabitants retreat with their cattle to the temple
+of Ebsambal. The Moggrebyns, last year attempted to force this
+place of refuge, but failed, after losing several men.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[93]</span>From Ebsambal our
+road lay E. N. E. along a barren, sandy shore. At three hours and a
+half from our setting out in the morning, we passed some ruined
+Greek chapels; and at the end of six hours and a half, alighted
+(opposite to Formundy, on the east side), at an Arab tent, in which
+was a young man, and a pretty girl, his cousin; their relations
+lived on the east side, and had sent them over to watch a few sown
+fields. I asked the girl whether she was not afraid of remaining
+alone with the youth? “O no,” she replied, “is he not my cousin?”
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ليش اخاف ما هو ابن عمي</span>).
+Cousins among the Bedouins are considered almost in the same light
+as brothers and sisters.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 23d.</em> A continuation of the high sandy shore. We
+left the river to our right, and made a short cut across the plain,
+in a N. E. by E. direction. In two hours and a half, we passed, at
+about one hour’s distance to our right, the village of Tosko, which
+stands on both sides of the river. Five hours, Mosmos (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مُسمُس</span>), a village on the west bank,
+opposite to Wady Bostan. Six hours, passed Wady Shubak, on the east
+bank; from thence our road was E. N. E. over a wide plain, between
+the western mountains and the river. At nine hours, saw, to our
+right, the village of Kette. About two miles distance from the
+river is an insulated hill, composed of sand-stone, in which a
+small sepulchral chamber has been formed, seven paces in length,
+three in breadth, and five feet and a half in height, with a
+sepulchral excavation in the centre; adjoining to it is a smaller
+chamber, in the bottom of which is a bust placed between two seats,
+destined probably for mummies. The sides of the principal chamber
+are covered with paintings, the colours of which are as well
+preserved as those in the tombs of the kings at Thebes, though they
+are not so well executed; the principal subjects are figures making
+offerings and paying adoration to Osiris and Apis: I observed on
+one side a Cynocephalus<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[94]</span> embalming a body extended upon a table before
+him; and on another, the same figure holding in his hand a balance,
+before which stands a sphinx: in the small chamber agricultural
+subjects are depicted, as ploughing, sowing, hoeing, &amp;c. There
+are no other sepulchres in this place. It will always be matter of
+surprise that similar excavations are not frequently found in the
+mountains of Nubia, abundant as they are in those of Egypt, in the
+neighbourhood of all ancient cities. In eleven hours we came again
+to the river, at a village called Ayfe (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عيفه</span>); and at the end of eleven hours and a half
+reached Tomas (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">توماس</span>), where
+we alighted, at a house belonging to Hassan Kashef. This is a large
+village, and the greater part of its inhabitants are descendants of
+the Arabs Gharbye, by whom Nubia was formerly occupied.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 24th.</em> In about one hour and a half from Tomas, we
+arrived opposite Derr, where is a ferry to convey passengers
+across. After waiting some time for the boat, which happened to be
+on the opposite side, I saw Hassan Kashef himself enter it, to
+cross the river; when he reached the shore, he received me very
+coolly; “You had no business,” said he, “in Mahass; why did you not
+return, after reaching Sukkot?” He then asked me what presents I
+had given to his brothers. I told him that I had given them no
+presents, as I had none to give. “I wonder, then,” he said, “how
+they let you pass, for you had no letters to them.” I replied, that
+they had treated me very kindly, and had even killed a lamb for me;
+though this was not the truth, and I only said so by way of rebuke
+to Hassan Kashef, who had not offered me any animal food, while I
+remained with him. I then entered the boat, which the governor’s
+slaves dragged along shore, to Tomas, where the Kashef wished to
+inspect some fields. Here I witnessed one of those cruel acts of
+despotism which are so common in the East: in walking over a large
+field, with about thirty attendants<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[95]</span> and slaves, Hassan told the owner that he had
+done wrong in sowing the field with barley, as water-melons would
+have grown better. He then took some melon seed out of his pocket,
+and giving it to the man, said, “you had better tear up the barley
+and sow this.” As the barley was nearly ripe, the man of course
+excused himself from complying with the Kashef’s command: “Then I
+will sow them for you,” said the latter; and ordered his people
+immediately to tear up the crop, and lay out the field for the
+reception of the melon seed. The boat was then loaded with the
+barley, and a family thus reduced to misery, in order that the
+governor might feed his horses and camels for three days on the
+barley stalks.</p>
+
+<p>I returned to Derr with Hassan Kashef, but remained there only a
+few hours. I dismissed my honest Kerrarish guide, Mohammed Sad; at
+parting, I gave him a woollen Mellaye,<a id="FNanchor_70"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_70">[51]</a> which he had long before expressed a
+great desire to possess. He was a good man, but had one defect, and
+a very great one in a guide: he never could be prevailed upon to
+tell me the distances of places; or state the spot where we should
+halt for the night. Whenever I questioned him on these points his
+constant reply was, Allah ysahhel aleyna (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الّه يسهّل علينا</span>), “May God smooth our path!” and
+when I pressed him for a decisive answer, he would exclaim: “God is
+great; he can prolong distances, and shorten them.” Like many
+Arabs, he thought, that to pronounce, with any degree of certainty,
+on the future, is an insult to the Deity, and the occasion of
+misfortunes in a journey; few of them, therefore, ever speak of any
+thing to be done without adding; “In shallah” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ان شاآله</span>). If it pleases God: but my old guide
+would not even go so far; and always evaded conversing on what was
+likely to happen. At parting, when he asked me for my
+Mellaye,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[96]</span> I answered,
+“May God smooth your path,” a phrase usually employed towards
+beggars, when they are civilly told to be gone; “No,” said he, “for
+once, I will beg you to smooth it;” so I gave him the Mellaye, and
+a small present in money; and am confident that Abou Sad will never
+forget me. On taking leave of Hassan Kashef, I offered him my
+pistols, as a present, for I certainly had reason, upon the whole,
+to be satisfied with his behaviour towards me; but he was in a very
+ill humour, and told me, that they were not pistols fit for a
+Kashef; and that he wanted a pair of long pistols, such as the
+Mamelouks carry in their holsters. I promised to send him such a
+pair, and thus we parted. I have already written to Cairo for the
+pistols, and the Kashef will be not a little surprised at receiving
+them; for it is very unusual in the East to remember the services
+of any one, whose good offices are no longer wanted.</p>
+
+<p>As long as Egypt enjoys a settled government, travellers may
+proceed through Nubia with safety, as that government will always
+be respected by the Nubian chiefs, at least as far as Wady Halfa.
+Whenever the Kashefs have nothing to apprehend from Egypt, I
+suspect that no traveller will be able to penetrate farther than
+Derr, but that he will there be stripped of his property, and sent
+back. In any case, it is necessary to be furnished with presents,
+particularly if all the three brothers happen to be at Derr; for
+they are extremely jealous of each other, and if a present were
+given to one only, the two others would certainly prevent the
+traveller from proceeding farther into the country.</p>
+
+<p>Being furnished with a new guide, who was to accompany me to
+Assouan, I recrossed the river, and slept this night, at one hour
+and a half from Derr, nearly opposite Diwan, in a hut which some
+labourers had built at a water wheel.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 25th.</em> At one hour and a half from where I slept,
+is a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[97]</span> place near the
+river called Hassaya (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حسّايه</span>), where a village formerly stood; here are the
+ruins of a small temple. The pronaos is sixteen paces in length,
+and consists of three rows of square<img alt="" class="float-right iw9" src="images/i07.jpg" id="i07"> columns, four in each row,
+and two feet square, with a row of four round ones next the cella;
+the whole are without capitals. The hieroglyphics are badly
+sculptured; the beetle is the figure most frequently met with on
+the columns. The pronaos is encompassed by a wall, which fills up
+the intervals between the outer rows of columns. The cella is
+entered from the pronaos through a narrow chamber; on either side
+of the cella is an apartment, equal to it in depth, but narrower;
+there is no adytum. The walls of the cella have a thick coat of
+plaister, on which are paintings of Greek saints. The temple is
+interesting on account of its preservation, being almost entire;
+but the sands have accumulated considerably round its walls and
+columns. There is a well paved terrace on the top of the cella; and
+the Greeks had built a cupola over the pronaos. I believe this to
+be the temple mentioned by Norden, as situated near Amada. About
+twenty yards distant from it, towards the river, are the
+foundations of another stone edifice.</p>
+
+<p>At two hours and a half, is the village Areyga (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اريكه</span>), opposite Shakke, on the east
+side. There is a short route over the mountain from Derr to
+Assouan; but I preferred following the banks of the river. The
+shore continued to be very sandy; from an excavation made by the
+peasants, in search of treasure, I perceived that the sands covered
+a stratum of rich alluvial soil, whose surface was at a height
+which the water does not now reach, even during the highest
+inundations. I had opportunities of making the same observation in
+several other places; which seems to prove that either the bed of
+the Nile or its inundations have been formerly much<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[98]</span> higher in Nubia, than they are
+at present; for the earth is evidently a deposit of its waters. The
+shore is quite barren from Areyga northwards. At four hours we
+passed opposite to Songary. At five hours, we came to the small
+village of Maleky (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مالكي</span>),
+opposite the northern extremity of Wady Songary. In six hours and a
+half, we arrived in front of the southern extremity of Wady el
+Arab; the shore here is quite barren, and there is only a small
+hamlet. In ten hours, we reached the banks of the river, opposite
+Seboua, where are the fine ruins which I mentioned, in describing
+my route southward.<a id="FNanchor_71"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_71">[52]</a>
+They stand on the side of low hills, which a narrow plain separates
+from the river. In front of the temple is a propylon similar to
+that of the temple of Gorne at Thebes. It is twenty-eight paces in
+length;<img alt="" class="float-left iw6" src="images/i08.jpg" id="i08"> and in the centre of its two pyramidal wings is a small
+gateway, leading into the court of the pronaos, two-thirds of which
+are buried in sand. The pronaos has five columns, without capitals,
+on each of its longest sides; in front of each column, and joined
+to it, is a colossal figure (like those at Gorne), about sixteen
+feet in height, having the arms crossed upon the breast, with the
+flail in one hand and the crosier in the other; all these figures
+are much mutilated. The walls of the propylon, and of the pronaos,
+having been constructed of small blocks of very friable sandstone,
+are so much decayed, that little now remains of the sculptures with
+which they were originally covered; but a Briareus, with two
+bodies, may yet be distinguished on the outside wall of the
+propylon. In front of the entrance, there lies on the ground a
+colossal human statue, the head and breast of which are buried in
+the sand; it probably stood on the side of the gate, like the
+colossi at Luxor; it is a male figure, and in the same attitude as
+the statues in front of the temple of Isis at Ebsambal. In front of
+the propylon, and about thirty yards distant from it, are two
+statues ten feet in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[99]</span>
+height, and seven paces from each other; their faces are towards
+the river, and they are attached by the back to a stone pillar of
+equal height; they are rudely executed, proportion being so little
+observed, that the ears are half the length of the head; they both
+wear the high bonnet, and represent unbearded male figures. An
+avenue of sphinxes leads from the river to the temple; but the
+greater part of them are now buried; four remain by the side of the
+two last mentioned statues, differing from each other in size and
+shape, but all representing the bodies of lions with the heads of
+young men, and the usual narrow beard under the chin. I observed a
+hole on the top of their flattened heads, intended, perhaps, to
+receive a small statue. Near the temple are some mounds of rubbish
+and broken pottery. The whole fabric appears to be of the remotest
+antiquity; and to have been imitated by the more modern architects
+of Egypt; for the propylon, and the pronaos with its colossal
+statues, are found at Gorne, on a larger scale; the two statues in
+advance of the propylon, are the miniatures of those in front of
+the Memnonium; and the sphinxes are seen at Karnac. As it was long
+after sunset before I quitted this temple, we proceeded only half
+an hour farther, and alighted at the hut of an Aleykat Arab.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 26th.</em> In one hour and a half we came to Wady
+Medyk, which stands on both sides of the river. The Senna-mekke
+grows here in large quantities. The inhabitants of Medyk who
+retired to Esne after the passage of the Mamelouks, had not yet
+returned. Many of them died there of the small-pox.<a id="FNanchor_72"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_72">[53]</a> In two hours and a half, we passed
+opposite to Wady Nasrellab. In three hours and a half, we came to
+El Nowabat, a ruined village, opposite<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[100]</span> to Thyale on the east bank. The shore is
+here very narrow, and the western hills are low, and sandy. At five
+hours and a half, we saw, upon the hills, the ruins of several
+Greek churches. Seven hours, El Meharraka, on both sides of the
+Nile. Upon the rocky hill, over the river, stands a small ruined
+city, the houses of which had been built partly of small stones,
+and partly of mud; they are of Arab construction. Eight hours and a
+half brought us to the northern extremity of Wady Meharraka, where
+the plain widens considerably, being broader than in any other part
+north of Derr; though it is cultivated at present only near the
+river. Here is the ruin of a temple, consisting of a portico of
+fourteen massy columns, with capitals of different sizes
+and<img alt="" class="float-left iw7" src="images/i09.jpg" id="i09"> forms, according to the ancient Egyptian taste in
+architecture. They are encompassed by a wall, which being joined to
+the entablature of the colonnade, forms a covered portico all
+round. The southern wall has fallen down, apparently from some
+sudden and violent concussion, as the stones are lying on the
+ground, in layers, as when placed in the wall; a proof that they
+must have fallen all at once. I observed some hieroglyphics
+sculptured upon single stones lying about in this part. The columns
+on the south side are joined to each other, except the two centre
+ones, by a low wall, half their height, in the same manner as those
+in the temple of the hawk-headed Osiris at Philæ. There is one
+large entrance, and two smaller ones, and a stair-case leading up
+to the top. Several paintings of Greek saints are upon the walls;
+but no hieroglyphics, nor sculptures, of any kind, are visible, not
+even the globe, common to all the Egyptian temples; neither are
+there any sculptures on the columns. The walls of this ruin are
+very neatly and well constructed. There are several Greek
+inscriptions upon them, in red ink; but I could only read the
+following clearly:</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[101]</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw3">
+<figure class="iw3" id="i10"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i10.jpg" id="img_images_i10.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">I also copied the following inscription, which is
+upon the wall; but I am unacquainted with the characters, and have
+no opportunity at present of ascertaining what they are:</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure class="iw1" id="i11"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i11.jpg" id="img_images_i11.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">There are besides, several inscriptions in the
+ancient popular Egyptian character, such as is seen on the
+manuscripts of papyrus.</p>
+
+<p>The whole portico stands upon a terrace of massy stones, eight
+feet high towards the river; on this side is the great gate, but,
+as there are no steps up to it, it is probable that it was used
+only during the period of inundation, when vessels might moor close
+under it; at present, the water does not reach the temple at the
+time of the inundation. The portico is fifteen paces in length, and
+nine in breadth: there is nothing about it which denotes it to be
+of Egyptian origin, except the palm-leaves sculptured on the
+capitals of the columns; it possesses, however, an imposing
+simplicity, and belongs, I think, to the last epoch of Egyptian
+architecture. Close to the walls of the portico are the remains of
+another building, which had probably been a temple similar to the
+above, and not a part of the same structure, for I could not
+perceive any corresponding parts in the two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[102]</span> buildings. A wall only remains, and the
+foundations of the principal building; on the former are several
+sculptures, one of which represents Isis sitting under a tree, and
+receiving offerings; it is in high relief, unlike any thing of the
+kind I have seen in Egyptian temples, and more resembling Grecian
+sculpture. This circumstance, and the Grecian-like simplicity of
+the portico, lead me to conjecture that both edifices were the work
+of the Ptolemies, who constructed temples to the Egyptian deities
+in several parts of Egypt, in which they imitated the architecture
+consecrated to their worship. I saw no hieroglyphics on the
+wall.</p>
+
+<p>There are large mounds of rubbish, and fragments of pottery, in
+this place. Several travellers have expressed their astonishment at
+the immense heaps of rubbish consisting chiefly of pottery which
+are met with on the sites of ancient Egyptian towns; and, if we are
+to attribute their formation to the accumulation of the fragments
+of earthen vessels used by the inhabitants for domestic purposes,
+they are indeed truly surprising; but I ascribe their origin to
+another cause. In Upper Egypt, the walls of the peasants houses are
+very frequently constructed in part of jars placed one over the
+other, and cemented together with mud; in walls of inclosures, or
+in such as require only a slight roof, the upper part is very
+generally formed of the same materials; in the parapets also of the
+flat-roofed houses a double or triple row of red pots, one over the
+other, usually runs round the terrace, to conceal the females of
+the family when walking upon it. Pots are preferred to brick,
+because the walls formed of them are lighter, more quickly built,
+and have a much neater appearance. They possess, likewise, another
+advantage, which is, that they cannot be pierced at night by
+robbers, without occasioning noise, by the pots falling down, and
+thus awakening the inmates of the dwelling, while bricks can be
+removed silently, one by one, as is often<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[103]</span> done, by nightly depredators, who break
+into the houses in this manner. If then we suppose that pot walls
+were in common use by the ancient inhabitants, the large mounds of
+broken pottery may be satisfactorily accounted for. As for stone,
+it seems to have been as little used for the private habitations of
+the ancient Egyptians, as it is at the present day.</p>
+
+<p>Near Wady Meharraka the island of Derar commences. At eight
+hours and three quarters is the village of Korty. About two hundred
+yards from the river stands a ruined temple; it is the smallest I
+have seen, and may truly be called an Egyptian temple in miniature,
+being only ten paces in length; the cella and adytum are yet
+standing; the pronaos seems to be buried under the sand. Of the
+sculptures, a few figures, and the winged globe over the gates,
+remain; but the whole temple is in a very mutilated state. At the
+end of nine hours and a half, we stopped at the house of a Shikh,
+on the southern extremity of Wady Dakke (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي دقّه</span>).</p>
+
+<p><em>March 27th.</em> After an hour’s march, we came to the ruin
+of a temple, one of the finest remains of antiquity that is met
+with in the valley of the Nile. In the front stands a large
+propylon, thirty paces in length, in the centre of which is a gate
+similar to that of the propylon at Edfou; before this gate lies a
+fragment of the body of a sphinx. There are neither hieroglyphics
+nor figures of any kind upon the outer wall of the propylon; in
+both the wings are staircases leading up to the top, exactly
+similar in their construction to those in the propylon at Philæ;
+the two wings communicate with each other by a terrace over the
+gate: there are numerous small chambers one above the other from
+the bottom to the top, in both wings. On the wall which fronts the
+gate of the temple, and on the sides of the gateway, are sculptures
+and hieroglyphics.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[104]</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw4">
+<figure class="iw4" id="i12"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i12.jpg" id="img_images_i12.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>Sixteen paces distant from the propylon is the entrance to the
+pronaos, between two columns, united to the wall, which is half
+their height; they have the same capitals as the columns of the
+open temple at Philæ, which are seen no where else in Egypt, and
+which are represented in the travels of Denon, who says that they
+approach the Grecian style by the elegance of their forms. Upon the
+columns of the temple of Dakke are various figures, among which, I
+particularly noticed one of a <em>harper</em>. The pronaos is ten
+paces in length, and seven in breadth: its roof is formed of
+enormous blocks of stone, at least fifteen feet long. A door leads
+from the pronaos into a narrow apartment, only four paces in
+breadth,<a id="FNanchor_73"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_73">[54]</a> which communicates with
+the adytum, by another door richly ornamented. On one side of the
+adytum is a small dark chamber, in which is a deep sepulchre, with
+a large lion sculptured in the wall immediately over it; and, on
+the other side, behind the wall, is a passage, communicating with
+the pronaos, and containing a staircase which leads up to the top
+of the building.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[105]</span>
+The adytum is about six paces square; beyond it is another
+apartment, somewhat larger, communicating, by a small gate, with a
+narrow passage inclosed between the wall of the temple, and a thick
+stone wall which inclosed the building on three sides, but of which
+the foundations only are now remaining. A large block of granite
+lying on the floor of this apartment, is one of the few instances
+wherein granite is found in the temples of Nubia. Along the bottom
+of the walls are represented lotus plants in flower, to which
+offerings are presented.</p>
+
+<p>There are no historical sculptures in any part of this temple,
+but the exterior walls, as well as all the apartments within, are
+thickly covered with figures representing religious subjects: on
+the former some of the figures are four feet in height; those on
+the latter are all beautifully executed, and equal, to the best
+specimens of the kind which travellers admire at Hermonthis and
+Philæ; indeed, I prefer the figures in the chamber behind the
+adytum, to any that are in the temples at those places: in no
+temple of Egypt have I seen such correctness of design or
+gracefulness of outline: some of the figures might have adorned a
+Grecian building. On each side of the narrow apartment behind the
+pronaos is a small gate, opening into the passage above mentioned;
+opposite to one of these gates is an avenue leading down to the
+river, and on the outside of the other are two long inscriptions;
+one of which is in hieroglyphics, and the other, immediately below
+it, and, apparently, by the same hand, in the common Egyptian
+character, like that on the rolls of papyrus. I conjecture the
+latter to be a translation of the former, and if so, it may prove
+to be of some interest. The propylon and the whole of the temple
+seem to have been encompassed by a brick inclosure, parts of which
+still remain, and traces of the rest may be discerned under the
+mounds of sand. The Greek Christians had appropriated<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[106]</span> this temple to their worship,
+several paintings of saints yet remaining on the walls. In the
+gateway, and on the wall of the propylon, are numerous Greek and
+Egyptian inscriptions, by curious visitors; of the former I copied
+the following:</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure class="iw1" id="i13"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i13.jpg" id="img_images_i13.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>I conjecture the temple of Dakke to have been built after the
+plan of Philæ; although upon a smaller scale, its execution
+appeared to me to be still more careful than that of Philæ: and it
+is extremely interesting from the high preservation of all its
+details. Dakke is probably the ancient <em>Pselcis</em>, and the
+small chapel at Kobban, on the eastern side of the river,
+<em>Contra-Pselcis</em>. The temple at Korty has retained its
+ancient name, <em>Corti</em>; and the portico of Meharraka must
+therefore stand upon the site of <em>Hierosycaminon</em>: the
+temples of Seboua, Hassaya, and Ebsambal, with their cities, are
+consequently unknown to the itinerary of Antoninus.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[107]</span>To the north of
+the temple are the remains of an Arab town, where I saw some
+tombstones with Cufic inscriptions similar to those among the
+sepulchres of Assouan. The plain is covered with large heaps of
+rubbish. From Dakke to Benbaan, a village opposite Darau,
+twenty-five miles north of Assouan, there is a route of three easy
+days across the western mountain; there is a spring in the way,
+called Kurkur (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قُرقُر</span>), with
+date trees growing near it.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of three hours travelling from our setting out in the
+morning, we reached Wady Kostamne, situated on both sides of the
+river. In five hours, Wady Gyrshe; at the northern extremity of
+this village is a temple, cut out of the rock, which presents a
+fine contrast to its neighbour at Dakke, having been executed in
+the infancy of architectural art, when the artist produced an
+imposing effect not by the gracefulness, but the magnitude of his
+figures. This temple stands upon the top of a hill, the broad
+declivity of which is covered with rubbish and some fragments of
+colossal statues. In front, is a portico, consisting of five square
+columns on each side, cut out of the rock, with a row of circular
+columns in front, constructed of several blocks, and<img alt="" class="float-right iw7" src="images/i14.jpg" id="i14"> which
+originally supported an entablature. Of these columns only two
+remain. Before each of the square side columns stands a colossal
+statue of sand-stone, about eighteen feet high, holding a flail in
+one hand, the other hanging down; they all represent male figures,
+with the narrow beard under the chin, and the high sphinx cap upon
+the head: their shoulders are covered with hieroglyphic
+inscriptions. On both sides of the portico is an open alley, hewn
+in the rock, from whence, perhaps, the materials of the front
+colonnade were taken. The pronaos, which is entered<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[108]</span> from the portico by a large
+gate, is eighteen paces square, and contains two rows, three in
+each, of immense columns, or rather props, (for they are without
+capitals,) measuring five feet by seven in the plan. In front of
+each of these columns is a colossal figure, more than twenty feet
+in height, representing the usual juvenile character, with the
+corn-measure or bonnet on the head, the hands crossed upon the
+breast, and holding the flail and crosier. Although these statues
+are rudely executed, the outlines of their bodies being less
+correct even than those of the statues at Seboua, and their legs
+mere round blocks, yet they have a striking effect in this
+comparatively small apartment; indeed, accustomed as I had been to
+the grandeur of Egyptian temples, of which I had examined so many
+incomparable specimens, I was nevertheless struck with admiration
+on entering this gloomy pronaos, and beholding these immense
+figures standing in silence before me. They immediately recalled to
+my memory the drawings I had seen of the caves near Surat, and
+other Indian excavated temples, which, in many respects, bear a
+strong resemblance to those of Nubia. On the side walls of the
+pronaos are four recesses, or niches, in each of which are three
+statues of the natural size, representing the different symbolical
+male and female figures which are seen on the walls of the temples
+of Egypt. The centre figures are generally clothed in a long dress,
+while the others are naked. All these figures, as well as the
+colossi, are covered with a thick coat of stucco, and had once been
+painted; they must then have had a splendid appearance. A door
+leads from the pronaos into the cella; in the centre of the cella
+are two massy pillars, and on either side a small apartment, which
+was probably a place of sepulture; in the floor of each are high
+stone benches, which may have served for supporting mummies, or
+perhaps as tables for embalming the bodies deposited in the temple;
+the floors have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[109]</span>
+been broken up in search of treasure, and are now covered with
+rubbish. Behind the cella, and communicating with it by a door, is
+the adytum, on each side of which is a small chamber, also opening
+into the cella, exactly like those in the temple at Derr. In the
+posterior wall of the adytum are four statues, above the human
+size, seated; and in the centre of the floor is a large cubical
+stone, the use of which I cannot determine; its sides are quite
+smooth, and without any kind of sculpture. It may, perhaps, have
+served as the pedestal of a statue; or is it an inverted
+sarcophagus? Of the sculptures and hieroglyphics with which the
+walls of this temple were covered, very little is now discernible,
+the sand-stone being of a very friable nature, and soon falling to
+decay; added to this, the walls are quite black with smoke from the
+fires kindled by the neighbouring shepherds, who often pass the
+night in the temple with their cattle; enough, however, still
+remains to shew that the sculptures are rudely executed. The
+colossal figures are in good preservation, particularly those of
+the pronaos; those in the portico have been mutilated.</p>
+
+<p>While inspecting the interior apartments of this temple with a
+lighted candle, for they receive no light but what is communicated
+through the outer gate, I was joined in the adytum by the Shikh of
+Gyrshe, who had hurried after me, on seeing us take the road to the
+building. He begged me to give him half the treasure I had found,
+or at least, a handful; but he was obliged to be contented with a
+piece of wax candle. He shewed me the place where the Englishmen
+(Messrs. Legh and Smelt), who had been here before me, found, as he
+asserted, an immense treasure, with which they loaded their vessel;
+one of the peasants had seen the gold! Similar tales are often
+spread abroad; every peasant swears to their truth; and singular as
+it may appear, all the inhabitants of Egypt, notwithstanding the
+long residence of the French in that country,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">[110]</span> and the continual passage of travellers,
+are still persuaded that the ancient temples are visited for no
+other purpose than to search for treasure.</p>
+
+<p>I am uncertain whether Gyrshe, or the more northern Dandour,
+represents the ancient <em>Tutzis</em>. The spot upon which the
+temple just described stands, is called by the natives Djorn
+Hosseyn (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جُرن حسين</span>).</p>
+
+<p>From Gyrshe, northward, the shore is very narrow; we rode over
+the rocky mountain, which is close to the river, and, at the end of
+six hours from Dakke, alighted at Merye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مريه</span>), where we slept. There are only a few families in
+the western Merye; but the western Gyrshe is well inhabited.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 28th.</em> After a ride of one hour and a half, along
+the narrow shore, we came to Wady Gharby Dandour, or the western
+Dandour (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">غربي دندور</span>), where I
+was surprised to meet with another ruin of a temple, as the shore
+is so narrow, that no city of any consequence could have been
+situated here. The shore, from the foot of the rocky hills to the
+banks of the river, is only thirty paces in breadth.</p>
+
+<p>Before this temple stands a small propylon, or gateway, with a
+high projecting cornice, resembling that at Tintyra.<img alt="" class="float-right iw7" src="images/i15.jpg" id="i15"> Behind
+the propylon is the pronaos, with two columns in front, similar to
+those of the temple of Dakke. The pronaos is seven paces in length.
+Next follows the cella, and beyond that, the adytum; there are a
+few sculptures on the walls of the adytum; on those of the pronaos
+I observed lotus plants in flower, as at Dakke, with persons making
+offerings to them. On the exterior wall of the temple are figures
+in the style of those at Tintyra; I particularly remarked a fine
+figure of Horus, with a finger on his lip. This temple is, in
+general, extremely well<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[111]</span> built, and the sculptures are of the best
+times; though I conceive it to be posterior in date to the temple
+at Philæ, from a visible decline both in the architecture and
+sculpture. In front of the propylon, towards the river, is a stone
+inclosure, thirty-five paces in length, by fifteen in breadth; the
+stones with which it is constructed are in their rough state on the
+outside, but smoothly cut on the interior. The wall fronting the
+river is fifteen feet in height, and describes a slight curve. The
+floor of this inclosure, now covered with stones and ruins, is
+considerably below the level on which the propylon and the temple
+are built. Had it been a place for sacred processions, or for
+sepulture? I have seen nothing like it in any Egyptian temple; the
+stones and rubbish in its area, render it probable that it had
+originally a roof. In the rock, just behind the temple, a grotto is
+excavated.</p>
+
+<p>In two hours, we came to Merowau (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مرواو</span>); the shore is no where more than fifty yards in
+breadth; but is well cultivated. Merowau belongs to Wady Gharby
+Dandour. Four hours and a half, Abou Hor. In the rock, a little to
+the south of this place, a reservoir has been cut, with an outlet,
+through which the water descends into a lower and smaller basin; it
+is difficult to conceive for what purpose they were intended, being
+so near the river. There are many jetties or piers in the river,
+which prove how anxious the ancient inhabitants had been to
+preserve and increase the portion of cultivable soil in this part.
+Here are some rocky islands. In the sides of the western hills
+adjoining Merowau and Abou Hor, are several small quarries, and the
+foundations of ancient stone buildings. Like their ancestors, the
+Nubians of the present day build their huts of stone, upon the
+declivity of the hills, wherever the shore is very narrow, that
+they may not encroach upon the cultivable ground. Where the plain
+is broad their dwellings stand in the midst of it, and are formed
+of mud<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[112]</span> only. Date
+trees, and the various species of acacia, grow all along the shore;
+the latter produces, in the spring, a bitter fruit, in shape like
+that of the Karoub, or locust tree; this the Arabs gather and sell
+at Assouan to the merchants of Egypt, who use it in tanning
+leather; it is called Garad (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قَرَظ</span>). Large quantities of it, of a superior quality,
+grow in the neighbourhood of Siout, and have rendered the tanneries
+of that place highly celebrated.</p>
+
+<p>After a slow ride of six hours we reached Kalabshe, the largest
+village on the west bank of the river between Assouan and Derr. At
+the foot of the hill, in the midst of the village, and reaching
+down to the river, is the ruin of a very large temple. The front of
+the portico consists of a large propylon of great beauty and
+simplicity, with a gate in the centre, by which the portico is
+entered; there had been a colonnade along the side wall of the
+latter, but one column only now remains, three feet three inches in
+diameter; the fragments of the others are lying in the area. On
+each side of the portico, and communicating with it, is a narrow,
+dark passage, with a door opening into the area which surrounds the
+temple, opposite a large gateway formed in the wall of the outer or
+general inclosure. The front of the pronaos is decorated with four
+beautiful columns, and two pilasters; the columns are united by a
+wall rising to half their height, similar to what is seen at
+Meharraka, Dakke, Dandour, Kardassy, and Debot, a mode of
+construction belonging apparently to the times in which the temples
+at Tintyra and Philæ were built. The roof of the pronaos has fallen
+in, and now covers the floor; of the columns which supported it,
+two only remain. There are no sculptures of any kind, either on the
+propylon, or in the pronaos, except on the back wall of the latter,
+or rather on the front wall of the cella, where the two-headed
+Briareus, under the hand of the victor, and protected by Osiris, is
+the most conspicuous.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[113]</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw6">
+<figure class="iw6" id="i16"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i16.jpg" id="img_images_i16.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>The cella is fifteen paces in length, by nine in breadth, and
+projects several feet into the pronaos, thus forming, as it were,
+an insulated chamber in the midst of the temple, a mode of
+construction which I observed at Dakke, and afterwards at Philæ:
+two low columns stand within the cella. In the adytum are the
+remains of columns, lying on the ground, the only instance of the
+kind I have seen in any Egyptian temple: in its walls are some low
+dark recesses, and windows or loop-holes like those in the temple
+at Tintyra: its roof is formed of single blocks of stone reaching
+the whole breadth, and upwards of three feet in thickness. There is
+a chamber behind the adytum, as at Dakke, and communicating with it
+by two doors; the roof has fallen in, but it may be seen that this
+chamber was lower than the adytum, and had a chamber over it. In
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[114]</span> walls of this
+chamber are several cells, or recesses, each of which forms two
+small apartments, one behind the other, divided by a narrow
+entrance, and just sufficiently large to hold one person; they are
+closed in front by a stone, which may be removed at pleasure; and
+were, perhaps, prisons for refractory priests, or places of
+probation for those who aspired to the priesthood; the persons who
+were placed in them may be literally said to have been shut up in
+the wall, as there is not the slightest appearance of any recess
+being there, when the stones which close the outer entrance are in
+their places. I observed a hollow stone in the interior of one of
+them, but I am not certain whether it was a sarcophagus or not.</p>
+
+<p>The walls of the cella and adytum are covered with painted
+figures, the colours of which still remain tolerably perfect, more
+so than those at Philæ, owing to a coat of plaister having been
+laid upon the walls by the Greeks, to receive the paintings of
+their saints; but which has for the most part fallen off; the
+colours generally used are red, blue, green, and black. The
+hawk-headed Osiris, with a staff in one hand, is painted of a light
+green colour, some females, holding the lotus in their hands, are
+quite black; the variously coloured striped robes of the Osiris
+with a tiara on his head have a most gaudy appearance; the hair, in
+general, of all the figures is painted black, though in some it is
+blue; the spaces between the different figures are covered with
+hieroglyphics, painted red. On the lower part of the side walls of
+the adytum are single human figures, each with an animal by its
+side, generally an ox, a gazell, or a goose. The exterior walls of
+the temple are covered with sculptures of colossal figures, like
+those at Tintyra and Edfou; though not so large: they are rudely
+executed, and by no means correspond with the beauty of the
+sculpture on the interior of the chambers. Heads of
+sphinxes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[115]</span> project
+from the walls, as at Tintyra; through which perhaps the priests
+delivered their oracles.</p>
+
+<p>The walls of the portico are prolonged the whole length of the
+temple, and by means of a transverse wall in the rear of the
+chamber behind the adytum, form a high inclosure all round; at
+about twenty feet beyond which, is the general inclosure to the
+whole building; this is carried to the foot of the hill, which has
+been cut down perpendicularly, so as to serve as the end wall. In
+the south-west corner of the area thus formed around the temple, is
+a small quadrangle formed on one side by three columns, and on the
+adjacent interior side by a short wall built across the area; here
+a grotto, or sepulchre, has been hewn in the perpendicular rock,
+similar to what I noticed behind the temple at Dandour; it consists
+of a single chamber, with the winged globe over its entrance, but
+without any other sculpture. A flight of steps leads from the
+propylon down to a paved terrace which extends to the foundations
+of an oblong building, standing just over the river, where are some
+fragments of columns. Visitors by water, during the inundations,
+might have stepped from their vessel into this building.</p>
+
+<p>The temple of Kalabshe deserves to rank, with that of Dakke,
+amongst the most precious remains of Egyptian antiquity. I have
+given merely a rapid description of it, but, I hope, sufficient to
+shew, that it deserves to be investigated closely in all its
+details. In its site, it is to be compared with the temples of
+Tintyra and Edfou; and it belongs to the best period of Egyptian
+architecture, though it bears traces, in several of its parts, of a
+less careful and more hurried execution, than that of the two
+temples just mentioned. The walls are uncommonly well built: the
+existing columns have the Philæ capitals, but are less nicely
+worked.</p>
+
+<p>The Greeks had formed this temple into a church; and
+several<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[116]</span> of the
+paintings of their saints are still remaining upon the walls. In
+the portico I copied the following inscription:</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw3">
+<figure class="iw3" id="i17"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i17.jpg" id="img_images_i17.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>About a quarter of an hour distant from this temple, on its
+north-west side, is a small temple cut out of the rock; the road to
+it lies through the remains of the ancient town, a heap of stones
+and rubbish, covering a space along the shore of about a mile and a
+quarter. In front of the temple is an open area (also hewn out of
+the rock), in which is the entrance to the cella; the cella is
+thirteen paces in length, by six in breadth; its roof is supported
+by two polygonal pillars; in the walls are two small recesses, with
+three statues in each. Adjoining the cella is the adytum, a small
+room, eight feet square. The sculptures and hieroglyphics on the
+walls are of the same rude execution as those at Derr. The group of
+Briareus is again repeated on both sides of the
+entrance.<a id="FNanchor_74"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_74">[55]</a>
+The walls of the open area in front of the temple are covered
+with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[117]</span> sculptures
+representing very interesting historical subjects: on one side is a
+battle; the victor in a chariot, drawn by two fiery steeds, like
+those at Karnac, is driving his vanquished enemies before him, who
+are flying towards a country thickly covered with fruit trees of
+various shapes and sizes, some of which have large round leaves,
+and clusters of fruits hanging from them, with apes sporting
+amongst the branches. Behind the victor’s car are two smaller ones,
+of the same form, each drawn by two horses at full speed; and
+bearing a female, standing upright, with a charioteer in front
+holding the reins. In another compartment, on the same wall, is a
+triumphal procession passing before Osiris, seated: naked men come
+first, bearing upon their shoulders large blocks of wood, probably
+ebony;<a id="FNanchor_75"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_75">[56]</a> one of them leads a wild
+mountain goat, a second carries an ostrich, a third holds in one
+hand a large shield, and in the other a gazell, and a fourth is
+bringing an ape into the royal presence; next comes a man bearing a
+block of precious wood, like the former, and driving two large
+buffaloes before him; the train is closed by a tall cameleopard,
+with its leader, followed by two prisoners, who are naked, with the
+exception of the skin of a wild beast tied round their waists. In
+another compartment, just above the latter, is a large lion, with
+his keeper; an animal of the size of a large goat, with long
+straight<span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[118]</span> horns, and
+a pair of buffaloes. In front of these two compartments, and before
+the king, lie heaps of quivers and arrows, elephants teeth, skins
+and furs of wild beasts, and a row of calabashes, supposed,
+perhaps, to contain precious ointments or perfumes. On the wall
+opposite to this, is a compartment, in which the king is
+represented seated, while bearded prisoners, with their hands
+bound, are brought before him; amongst them a train of female
+slaves is distinguished, dressed in long robes, with a high
+head-dress of this shape, <img alt="" class="iw10" src="images/i18.jpg" id="i18"> over which the cloke is thrown. In another
+compartment, close to this, a prisoner is immolated: and farther
+on, is a small battle-piece, in which the assault and capture of a
+tower are represented; a man, with an axe in his hand, is
+endeavouring to make a breach in the walls, from which some of the
+garrison are precipitated, while others are brought in prisoners.
+All these subjects are in bas-relief, and extremely well executed;
+they are the best specimens of historical sculpture that I have
+seen in the valley of the Nile, even more spirited than those at
+Thebes; the figures of the animals, in particular, are faithfully
+and correctly delineated. On considering the subjects they
+represent, they will be found very important, because they record a
+historical fact, no where else alluded to in any Egyptian
+structure. The hero of Egypt has here carried his arms into a
+country inhabited by lions, cameleopards, apes, and elephants: none
+of which animals are found in Nubia or Dóngola; the elephant and
+cameleopard inhabit the banks of the Nile towards Sennaar, the
+forests on the frontiers of Abyssinia, and the banks of the
+Astaboras and Astapus, from whence also the most beautiful and
+highest esteemed female slaves are now imported into Egypt: all the
+above-described trophies of victory, therefore, indicate, that the
+battles must have been fought in the countries to the south of the
+civilized country of the ancient Meroe; for the
+skin-clad<span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[119]</span> prisoners
+denote a savage people. The battle-pieces of Thebes, at Luxor and
+Karnac, seem to allude to less distant scenes of warfare. May not
+the castles, surrounded with water, which are there represented,
+relate to the fortified islands in the Batn el Hadjar, where we
+still meet with so many brick ruins? The head-dress of the
+fugitives, which is close-cut hair, and not a cap, as has been
+erroneously described, and the short, narrow beard, under the chin,
+are perfectly characteristic of the southern Noubas, whose colour
+is not quite black, but of that deep copper tinge, which a painter,
+unskilled in mixing colours, would rather represent by dark red
+than black. It may readily be imagined, that the inhabitants of the
+sterile districts of Nubia, and the Batn el Hadjar, would look with
+an envious eye upon the riches of Egypt, and would frequently
+excite the resentment of the monarchs of Thebes, by making inroads
+from their strong-holds, upon the adjacent provinces of Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>The small temple I have just described, is called by the natives
+Dar el Waly. Travellers proceeding by water are not likely to see
+it, without enquiring for it. In the hill close by, are the
+quarries whence the stones were hewn for the erection of the town
+and temples of Kalabshe. This, no doubt, was the ancient
+<em>Talmis</em>, and some mounds of rubbish on the east side,
+indicate the remains of <em>Contra-Talmis</em>. Talmis must have
+acquired its opulence by commerce, and not by agriculture, as the
+shore, in its neighbourhood, is no where more than forty yards in
+breadth. In ancient times, as at the present day, the traffic in
+dates probably supplied the Nubians with their chief means of
+subsistence, and gave life to the whole valley of the Nile from
+Wady Halfa to Philæ. Considerable profits might also be derived
+from the passage of vessels laden with goods from Meroe; whose
+traders perhaps, landed their merchandize at Sukkot, and
+transported<span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[120]</span> it from
+thence upon camels, across the Batn el Hadjar. It is probable,
+however, that the principal part of the trade of that ancient city
+with Egypt was carried on over-land, by the present route of the
+Sennaar caravans; for had it been by water, I think that some
+remains of commercial towns would be met with at both extremities
+of the Batn el Hadjar, where the vessels must have been unloaded
+and reloaded, as navigation is impracticable throughout that rocky
+district. When we consider the cataracts which occur in the country
+of the Sheygya, south of Dóngola, at Koke, in Mahass, at Wady Dal,
+and in the Batn el Hadjar, and that the distance from Goos to Derr,
+through Dóngola, following the course of the river, is twenty-five
+days journeys, while it is only eight by the route of the slave
+caravans, across the mountains, it seems probable that the ancient
+caravans of the southern countries descended into the valley of the
+Nile opposite Ebsambal, where the navigation down the river may
+have recommenced.<a id="FNanchor_76"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_76">[57]</a></p>
+
+<p>We halted for the night, a little way beyond Dar el Waly, at
+Khortum (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خُرطم</span>), a village
+opposite the island of Darmout, and belonging to Kalabshe, having
+rode about six hours and a half in the course of the day. There was
+a shower of rain in the night, by which both myself and my guide
+caught a severe cold. The heat, which, in my journey up the river,
+was very moderate during the day, began now to be great, and the
+sudden change occasioned by the rain from almost tropical heat to
+winter cold, affected the health of us both.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 29th.</em> We ascended the mountain which interrupts
+the road along the shore. On its summit I saw fragments of
+very<span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[121]</span> small Egyptian
+columns and capitals, lying near some Arab structures. I observed
+no ancient edifice near them. The rock on the southern side of the
+mountain is granite and feldspath; on the northern side, it is
+sand-stone. At the end of two hours we again reached the banks of
+the river, at the village of Tafa, close to the spot where the rock
+projects perpendicularly into the water. Here are the ruins of two
+small temples: one of them consists of an apartment ten paces
+square, the roof and one side of which are in ruins; two columns
+are yet standing in it, two feet in diameter, with the palm-leaf
+capitals. Adjoining this apartment was<img alt="" class="float-right iw8" src="images/i19.jpg" id="i19"> the adytum, the
+foundations of which only remain. The winged globe is over the
+entrance into the adytum; but I saw no other sculptures, nor any
+hieroglyphics. The Greeks, as usual, have painted their saints upon
+the walls; and a Greek almanac, and several badly written
+inscriptions, are also visible upon them. The other temple is
+a<img alt="" class="float-right iw9" src="images/i20.jpg" id="i20">
+small square apartment, quite entire, with six pillars in it,
+similar, in size and shape, to those just mentioned. The winged
+globe over the gates is the only sculpture of any kind about it.
+Around these two buildings are numerous remains of the private
+dwellings of the ancient inhabitants, consisting of thick and
+strongly built walls of stone; this material, from its greater
+proximity, having been frequently used in Nubia instead of
+bricks.</p>
+
+<p>The peasants of Tafa (no doubt the ancient <em>Taphis</em>)
+relate that they are the descendants of the few Christian
+inhabitants of the city, who embraced the Mahommedan faith, when
+the country was conquered by the followers of the Prophet; the
+greater part of their brethren having either fled, or been put to
+death on that event taking place. They are still called Oulad el
+Nusara (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اولاد النصَارَي</span>); or
+the Christian progeny. On the east bank are some ancient remains,
+on the site of <em>Contra Taphis</em>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[122]</span>From Tafa
+northwards, as far as Dehmyt, the shore bears the name of Wady el
+Mebarakat (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي
+المباركات</span>).The Arabs Mebarakat are a tribe of Kenous. The
+uncultivated fields here are overgrown with Senna-mekke. At three
+hours we passed Hindau; four hours, Kardassy, where, close to the
+water, is a large stone inclosure, about one hundred and thirty
+paces in length, by one hundred in breadth; in its area are heaps
+of ruined dwellings built of stone. The entrance into this
+inclosure is by a large gateway, similar in shape to that in the
+front of the temple near Merowau.<a id="FNanchor_77"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_77">[58]</a>
+The walls are about ten feet in thickness, and are faced on either
+side with hewn stones, having the centre filled up by small ones
+thrown in confusedly, without cement; these walls were certainly
+intended for defence; it was, perhaps, a station of the Romans,
+against the Blemmyes. I searched in vain for remains of
+hieroglyphics or sculptures. About a mile farther down the river,
+upon the top of a hill, are the ruins of a temple, resembling in
+its construction that of the hawk-headed Osiris at Philæ. There
+remains no part but the portico;<img alt="" class="float-right iw9" src="images/i21.jpg" id="i21"> it consisted originally of eight
+columns, of which six are still standing; these are partly united
+with each other by a wall, rising to half their height, and
+inclosing the whole of them. Of the stones which formed the roof,
+one block only remains; it is at least sixteen feet in length, and
+reaches the whole breadth of the temple. Over four of the columns
+the architraves still remain; the capitals of the two others are
+formed by four faces of Isis, with the same head-dress as at
+Tintyra, but with countenances more juvenile and less grave; the
+ears are very peculiar,<img alt="" class="float-right iw9" src="images/i22.jpg" id="i22"> and of the annexed form. There
+is a sculptured figure on one of the columns only; the others bear
+traces of having been covered with hieroglyphics.</p>
+
+<p>To the S. W. of the hill on which the above temple<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[123]</span> stands, and close to the
+river, are some very extensive quarries of sandstone, from whence
+the materials were probably taken for the erection of the sandstone
+temples at Philæ and Parembole, where the rocks are entirely of
+granite. In walking through the quarries, I came to a spot where a
+niche is cut in the levelled side of the rock; within it is a stone
+bench, which may have been the pedestal of a statue; small winged
+globes are sculptured above it. This niche seems to have been used
+by the ancient Egyptians, and subsequently both by the Pagan and
+Christian Greeks, as a shrine, at which they offered up their
+prayers to the deity for the preservation of their own health and
+that of their friends. Several heads of Greek saints are sculptured
+in the rock on both sides of the niche; and I also observed whole
+length figures, and small heads of sphinxes only three or four
+inches in length, representations, perhaps, of similar images of
+gold or silver offered to the Pagan deities. The adjoining rock is
+covered with a great number of Egyptian and Greek inscriptions. Of
+the latter, which are much more numerous than the Egyptian, I
+selected the following, as being the most interesting, from their
+purport.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw2">
+<figure class="iw2" id="i23"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i23.jpg" id="img_images_i23.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[124]</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw3">
+<figure class="iw3" id="i24"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i24.jpg" id="img_images_i24.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure class="iw1" id="i25"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i25.jpg" id="img_images_i25.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw3">
+<figure class="iw3" id="i26"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i26.jpg" id="img_images_i26.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[125]</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw3">
+<figure class="iw3" id="i27"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i27.jpg" id="img_images_i27.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">There is also a Latin inscription, of which I could
+only make out the two words, FABIO . CVM. There are small niches in
+several other parts of the rocks of this quarry, with the winged
+globe over them; but I saw no inscriptions upon any, except that
+abovementioned.</p>
+
+<p>In four hours and a half, we passed Wady Hadyd; opposite to
+which, on the east side, is Wady Sahdab (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي سهداب</span>). On a rocky hill stands an insulated
+column, the only remains of a small temple, whose ruins are spread
+about; several small sepulchres are excavated in the declivity of
+the hill, and heaps of rubbish indicate an ancient city. Five
+hours, Djara (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جعره</span>). The
+shore from Tafa to this place is well cultivated. Five hours and a
+half, Dehmyt, where the Wady Mebarakat terminates. The eastern
+Dehmyt is better cultivated than the western. Here are the
+foundations of a small square edifice built of massy stones; with a
+thick mud wall running parallel to the hills, and the course of the
+stream, for about fifty yards; it was intended, perhaps, as a
+barrier against the sands of the desert. In six hours and a half we
+came to Merys (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مريس</span>);
+opposite to it, on the east side, is the village Syale.
+There<span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[126]</span> is an island
+in the river, with several brick ruins on it. The rock is granite,
+and continues so all the way to Assouan. The road from Syale lies
+over a sandy plain, with insulated hills of granite, which separate
+it from the river. On the east side, to the north of Syale, is the
+village of Abdoun. At seven hours and a half is Debot (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دبوت</span>), consisting of several villages
+lying on both sides of the river. At seven hours and three quarters
+is a hill, overhanging the shore, and forming part of Wady Debot,
+on which are the ruins of an Arab town; the houses are of brick,
+and seem to have been extensive, and well built. In the river are
+several large granite piers. At the end of eight hours, we halted
+for the night at a small hamlet. The Mamelouks remained in this
+neighbourhood several months, till the advance of Ibrahim Beg
+compelled them to retire: during that period, fodder became so
+scarce, that they were obliged to feed their camels upon the
+palm-leaves: they stripped all the date trees of their leaves in
+this vicinity, and as far south also as Wady Halfa, so that the
+Nubians were a whole year without any produce from the trees.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 30th.</em> After a ride of half an hour, over a well
+cultivated plain, we came to the temple of Debot, which stands upon
+the site of the ancient <em>Parembole</em>.</p>
+
+<p>The temple is approached through three high, insulated gateways,
+with projecting cornices, like that near Merowau. The distance
+between the first and second gateway is twenty paces; ten paces
+between the second and third; and fifteen paces between the third
+and the pronaos of the temple. In front of the pronaos are four
+columns, with a wall half their height. Along the centre of three
+of the interior walls of the pronaos is a compartment of sculpture,
+the other parts of the walls being quite bare; a peculiarity I saw
+no where else. Adjoining the pronaos to the left is a square
+chamber, the walls of which project beyond the side of the
+temple,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[127]</span> and destroy
+its symmetry. There are no sculptures of any kind on the walls of
+this apartment.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw5">
+<figure class="iw5" id="i28"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i28.jpg" id="img_images_i28.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">The cella is an oblong square; its walls are
+covered with hieroglyphics and sculptures: on one side of it is a
+dark apartment, opening into the pronaos, and on the other side is
+a staircase leading up to the top of the temple: below the
+staircase are several small rooms. The adytum, which is entered
+through a narrow chamber, three paces in breadth, is ten feet in
+length by nine in breadth; in its posterior wall are two fine
+monolith temples of granite, the largest of which is eight feet in
+height by three in breadth; the winged globe is sculptured over
+each of them. They appear to have been receptacles for some small
+sacred animals, perhaps beetles. The places are yet visible where
+turned the hinges of the door, which shut up whatever was contained
+within. These monolith temples are similar to those at Philæ; but
+differ in their construction from that at Gaou
+(<em>Antæopolis</em>), which is much larger:<a id="FNanchor_78"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_78">[59]</a><span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[128]</span> nor are there any hieroglyphics in the
+interior, whereas that at Gaou is covered on the inside with
+inscriptions and sculptures, some of the latter representing
+scarabæi. On each side of the adytum at Debot is a small room,
+communicating with the narrow chamber behind the cella; the walls
+of both are without sculptures, but contain some secret recesses,
+similar to those at Kalabshe, and which were destined, probably,
+for the same purposes. One of these rooms had an upper story, like
+the one at Kalabshe, but it is now ruined; the other apartments of
+the temple are in good preservation. The sculptures on the inside
+walls are much defaced; but some faint remains of their colouring
+are yet visible. There are no sculptures whatever on the exterior
+walls. A wall, now in ruins, had encompassed the whole of this
+temple, including the three gateways in front of it. I observed in
+the broken-up floor of the pronaos deep stone foundations, upon
+which the temple is built. I should not be surprised if
+subterraneous rooms were discovered here, as well as in other
+Egyptian temples: they would be quite in the spirit of the Egyptian
+hierarchy.</p>
+
+<p>The temple of Debot appeared to me to have been built at an
+epoch when the arts had begun to decline in Egypt. Its columns and
+sculptures are imitations of those at Philæ, but far inferior in
+beauty, to their models: the small temple at Merowau seemed to be
+about the same age, though of more careful execution. We thus find
+in Nubia specimens of all the different æras of Egyptian
+architecture, the history of which indeed can only be traced in
+Nubia; for all the remaining temples in Egypt (that of Gorne,
+perhaps, excepted) appear to have been erected in an age when the
+science of architecture had nearly attained to perfection. If I
+were to class the Nubian temples according to the probable order of
+their erection, it would be as follows: 1, Ebsambal. 2, Gyrshe. 3,
+Derr. 4, Samne. 5, Ballyane. 6, Hassaya. 7, Seboua.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[129]</span> 8, Aamara, and Kalabshe. 9,
+Dakke, and Meharraka. 10, Kardassy. 11, Merowau. 12, Debot. 13,
+Korty. 14, Tafa.</p>
+
+<p>At a short distance from the temple of Parembole, we ascended
+the sandy mountain; and after a ride of one hour, again reached the
+river at Wady Shamet el Wah: here is a small ferry-boat, by means
+of which, as I wished to visit the island of Philæ, I determined to
+cross over to the eastern shore; for there is no road fit for
+camels along the western bank, the common route from Debot lying
+directly over the mountain to the shore opposite Assouan. Having no
+inflated goat-skins to tie to the necks of the camels, we fastened
+cords round their bodies, and towed them across, along side the
+boat; but as the boat was very leaky, and had only two boys for
+rowers, we were more than a quarter of an hour in crossing the
+river, and one of the camels reached the shore in an almost
+lifeless state. There are only six ferry-boats between Philæ and
+Derr; these are at Debot, Kalabshe, Dehmyt, Gyrshe, Dakke, and
+Seboua. There is none south of Derr, as far as the frontiers of
+Dóngola. The owners of the boats take from every peasant a handful
+of whatever provision he happens to carry with him, or an armful of
+straw, &amp;c.; women pass free. We landed at Sak el Djemel, the
+same place where I had slept on the night of my departure from
+Assouan; and from thence we recrossed the mountain towards Philæ by
+the same road as before.</p>
+
+<p>It was about mid-day when I visited this celebrated island. The
+inhabitants of Birbe, a small village on the eastern shore, keep a
+boat for the conveyance of passengers to it, the ruins being often
+visited, and few of the Egyptian merchants, whom business brings to
+Assouan, returning without seeing the Cataract and Philæ. As there
+is no regular government in this part of the country, the people of
+Birbe have taken advantage of the necessity which the stranger is
+under of employing their boat, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[130]</span> make exorbitant demands upon him. On
+approaching the ferry, he is immediately beset by half a dozen of
+them, calling themselves the owners of the boat, and requiring
+their fare, while an equal number, representing themselves as the
+lords of the island, demand a compensation for permission to visit
+it. When I stepped into the boat, the people, who took me for a
+messenger from the Pasha on my way to Derr, crowded about me, and
+asked six piastres for carrying me over, and allowing me to see the
+island. This was certainly a trifling sum, for permission to
+examine the most precious remains of antiquity in Egypt; but I was
+determined, for once, not to be imposed upon by these extortioners,
+and offered them one piastre, to be divided amongst
+them;<a id="FNanchor_79"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_79">[60]</a> on their refusing to take
+it, I gave my clothes to my guide, and putting my pocket-book into
+my turban, swam over to the island. I had scarcely landed when the
+boat came after me; and they were very glad afterwards to take the
+piastre for carrying me back again. On a second visit, two days
+afterwards, I found them more reasonable in their demands. I have
+been told of instances where they extorted upwards of twenty
+piastres from strangers, by threatening to return with the boat to
+the main land, and leave them upon the island. Birbe is under the
+government of the Nubian chiefs. The territory of Assouan,
+belonging to Egypt, commences to the north of Philæ.</p>
+
+<p>I forbear making any remarks upon Philæ, or the adjoining island
+of Bidge, as the great French work on Egypt has so thoroughly
+described all the antiquities of that country.</p>
+
+<p>I returned late in the evening to Assouan, where I found my
+servant, who had begun to despair of my return. During the
+thirty-five days I had been absent, I had rested only one day, on
+my first reaching Derr; being in consequence a good
+deal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[131]</span> fatigued, no
+less than the camels, I determined to devote a few days to repose;
+I therefore hired a room in the Okale, or public carawanserai,
+where I remained five days, in the course of which, I visited at my
+leisure the invirons of the town; the bed of the river was almost
+dry between Assouan and the island of Elephantine, where I
+generally passed the morning. The nilometer of Elephantine will
+continue to puzzle the researches of travellers, as long as the
+high banks of the river are covered with rubbish. The nilometer
+built by the Calif Maouya is still extant. Near the extremity of
+the pier which forms the harbour of Assouan is a square aperture as
+low as the river, with steps at the bottom, by which the rise of
+the water might have been easily determined; it now bears the name
+of Mekyas, (Nilometer). This pier is not, as has been supposed by
+some travellers, a Roman bridge, but a Saracen erection.</p>
+
+<p>On the western shore, somewhat to the north of Assouan, is an
+ancient convent; it stands on the declivity of the sandy hill upon
+the summit of which is the saint’s tomb generally known by the name
+of Kobbat el Howa, or the airy cupola. In the rocks below the
+convent are several ancient temples and sepulchres, hewn out of the
+rock, which have not been mentioned by any traveller. They are
+interesting on account of their antiquity: each of them consists of
+a square chamber, covered with hieroglyphics, in which are square
+pillars, without capitals; the largest of these pillars measure two
+feet and a half, and are fifteen feet in height; they are all of
+very rude workmanship: in some of the temples are four, in others,
+six, or eight pillars. The Greeks have made chapels of almost all
+these temples. Large sepulchral excavations remain in several of
+them.</p>
+
+<p>The ruined convent of St. Lawrence, on the west side of the
+river, opposite to Assouan, little deserves the animated
+description<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[132]</span> which
+Denon has given of it. On a tombstone lying on the floor of one of
+its rooms, I read the following inscription, which I copied on
+account of the rude and uncommon appearance of the characters.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw6">
+<figure class="iw6" id="i29"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i29.jpg" id="img_images_i29.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the 9th of April, I returned to Esne.</p>
+
+<p>I shall here subjoin a few general remarks upon the Nubians and
+their history;<a id="FNanchor_80"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_80">[61]</a>
+my stay among them was too short to enable me to enter at length
+into the subject; and my observations were limited by my ignorance
+of the Nubian language, in which all conversation among the people,
+in my presence, was carried on.</p>
+
+<p>I have already observed, that Nubia is divided into two parts,
+called Wady Kenous, and Wady el Nouba (often named exclusively
+Saÿd); the former extending from Assouan to Wady Seboua, and the
+latter comprising the country between Seboua and the northern
+frontier of Dóngola. The inhabitants of these two
+divisions<span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[133]</span> are
+divided by their language, but in manners they appear to be the
+same.</p>
+
+<p>According to their own traditions, the present Nubians derive
+their origin from the Arabian Bedouins, who invaded the country
+after the promulgation of the Mohammedan creed,<a id="FNanchor_81"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_81">[62]</a> the greater part of the Christian
+inhabitants, whose churches I traced as far as Sukkot, having
+either fled before them or been killed; a few, as already
+mentioned, embraced the religion of the invaders, and their
+descendants may yet be distinguished at Tafa, and at Serra, north
+of Wady Halfa. The two tribes of Djowabere (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جوابره</span>) and El Gharbye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الغربيه</span>), the latter a branch of the great tribe of
+Zenatye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">زناتيه</span>) took
+possession of the country from Assouan to Wady Halfa, and
+subsequently extended their authority over a great number of
+smaller tribes who had settled on the banks of the river at the
+period of the general invasion, among whom were the Kenous, a tribe
+from Nedjed and Irak.<a id="FNanchor_82"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_82">[63]</a>
+The large tribe of Djaafere occupied the shores of the Nile from
+Esne to Assouan; a few families of Sherifs settled in the Batn el
+Hadjar; and a branch of the Koreysh possessed themselves of Mahass.
+For several centuries Nubia was occupied by these Arabs, who were
+at continual war with each other, in the course of which the kings
+of Dóngola had acquired so much influence over them, as to be able
+at last, to compel them to pay tribute. The Djowabere having nearly
+subdued the Gharbye, the latter sent an embassy to Constantinople,
+in the reign of the great Sultan Selym, to seek aid against their
+enemies, and they succeeded in procuring from the Sultan a body of
+several hundred Bosnian soldiers, under a commander<span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[134]</span> named Hassan Coosy. By their
+means the Djowabere and people of Dóngola were driven out of Nubia,
+into the latter country; and to this day the more wealthy
+inhabitants of Dóngola derive their origin from the tribe of
+Djowabere. Some families of the Djowabere, however, remained
+peacefully behind, and their descendants, who are found chiefly at
+Derr and Wady Halfa, are still known by the name of their
+ancestors.</p>
+
+<p>The Bosnian soldiers built the three castles, or rather repaired
+the existing fabrics, at Assouan, Ibrim, and Say; and those who
+garrisoned the castles obtained certain privileges for themselves,
+and for such of their descendants as should continue to occupy the
+castles, and the territory attached to them; one of these
+privileges was an exemption from all kind of land tax, which Selym
+had then for the first time imposed throughout his dominions; and
+as the country was thought incapable of affording food sufficient
+for the soldiers, an annual pension was likewise assigned to them
+out of the Sultan’s treasury at Cairo; the pay of the garrison of
+Ibrim was four purses, now equal only to £100., but then probably
+worth four times that sum. They were also made independent of the
+Pashas of Egypt. While the Pashas had any influence in Egypt, these
+pensions were paid; but the Mamelouks generally withheld them.
+Hassan Coosy, with his forces, chiefly cavalry, governed Nubia,
+while he lived, and was constantly moving from place to place; he
+paid an annual Miry to the Pasha of Egypt, but in other respects
+was independent of him. The descendants of such of the Bosnian
+soldiers as intermarried with the Gharbye and Djowabere tribes
+still occupy the territories assigned to their ancestors at
+Assouan, Ibrim, and Say; and they continue to enjoy immunity from
+taxes and contributions of every kind. They call themselves
+Kaladshy, or the people of the castles, but are distinguished by
+the Nubians by the appellation of Osmanli<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[135]</span> (Turks). They have long forgotten their
+native language; but their features still denote a northern origin,
+and their skin is of a light brown colour, while that of the
+Nubians is almost black. They are independent of the governors of
+Nubia, who are extremely jealous of them, and are often at open war
+with them. They are governed by their own Agas, who still boast of
+the Firmauns that render them accountable only to the Sultan.</p>
+
+<p>About fifty years ago, Hamman, chief of the Howara Arabs, having
+taken possession of the whole country from Siout to Assouan,
+extended also his authority over Nubia, which he several times
+visited, as far as Mahass; but, at present, the political state of
+the country may be said to be, nominally at least, the same as when
+Hassan Coosy took possession of it. The present governors, Hosseyn,
+Hassan, and Mohammed, are his descendants; their father was named
+Soleyman, and had acquired some reputation from his vigorous system
+of government. The title of Kashef, assumed by the three brothers,
+is given in Egypt to governors of districts. The brothers pay an
+annual tribute of about £120. into the treasury of the Pasha of
+Egypt, in lieu of the Miry of Nubia, for which the Pasha is
+accountable to the Porte. In the time of the Mamelouks, this
+tribute was seldom paid, but Mohammed Aly has received it regularly
+for the last three years. The three Kashefs have about one hundred
+and twenty horsemen in their service, consisting chiefly of their
+own relations, or of slaves; these troops receive no regular pay;
+presents are made to them occasionally, and they are considered to
+be upon duty only when their masters are upon a journey. Derr is
+the chief residence of the governors;<a id="FNanchor_83"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_83">[64]</a> but they are almost continually moving
+about,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">[136]</span> for the
+purpose of exacting the taxes from their subjects, who pay them
+only on the approach of superior force. During these excursions,
+the Kashefs commit acts of great injustice, wherever they find that
+there is none to resist them, which is frequently the case. The
+amount of the revenue is shared equally amongst the three brothers;
+but they are all very avaricious, extremely jealous of each other,
+and each robs clandestinely as much as he can. I estimate their
+annual income at about £3,000. each,<a id="FNanchor_84"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_84">[65]</a> or from 8 to £10,000. in the whole. None
+of them spends more than £300. a year. Their principal wealth
+consists in dollars and slaves. In their manners they affect the
+haughty mien and deportment of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">[137]</span> Turkish grandees; but their dress, which is
+worse than what a Turkish soldier would like to wear, ill accords
+with this assumed air of dignity.</p>
+
+<p>The mode of estimating the revenue in Nubia is not from a
+certain extent of ground, like the Syrian and Egyptian Fedhan, but
+from every Sakie, or water-wheel employed by the natives, after the
+inundation, and during the summer, for the purposes of irrigation;
+the same mode prevails on the banks of the Nile as far as Sennaar.
+In poor villages one Sakie is the common property of six or eight
+peasants; but the wealthier inhabitants have several. The number of
+water-wheels between Assouan and Wady Halfa, or between the first
+and second cataract, is from six to seven hundred. The ground
+watered by one Sakie, which requires the alternate labour of eight
+or ten cows, comprises from three to five Egyptian Fedhans. In
+fruitful years, the winter wheat and barley irrigated by one wheel
+yields from eighty to one hundred Erdebs (twelve to fifteen hundred
+bushels); the proportions sown of these grains are generally one
+fourth wheat and three fourths barley.<a id="FNanchor_85"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_85">[66]</a> The rate of taxation is different in
+different places; thus at Wady Halfa, each Sakie pays annually six
+fat sheep, and six Egyptian Mouds, or measures of Dhourra. In
+Mahass, the Malek, or king, takes from every wheel six sheep, two
+Erdebs, (twenty-six bushels) of Dhourra, and a linen shirt. The
+governors also take from every date tree two clusters of fruit,
+whatever may be the quantity produced, and levy a duty upon all
+vessels that load dates at Derr.<a id="FNanchor_86"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_86">[67]</a>
+But the whole system of taxation is extremely<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">[138]</span> arbitrary and irregular, and poor
+villages are soon ruined by it, from their inability to resist the
+exactions made upon them, while the richer ones pay much less in
+proportion, because the governors are afraid of driving the
+inhabitants to acts of open resistance. The Kashefs derive also a
+considerable income from their office of judges; the administration
+of justice being a mere article of merchandize.</p>
+
+<p>If one Nubian happen to kill another, he is obliged to pay the
+debt of blood to the family of the deceased, and a fine to the
+governors of six camels, a cow, and seven sheep; or they are taken
+from his relations. Every wound inflicted has its stated fine,
+consisting of sheep and Dhourra, but varying in quantity, according
+to the parts of the body wounded. This is an ancient Bedouin
+custom, and prevails also among the people of Ibrim, with this
+difference, that the mulct is given to the sufferer himself, and
+not to the Aga. If one of the governor’s tribe, or an El Ghoz
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الغُزّ</span> a name given in Egypt
+and Nubia to the Mamelouks) or any of the people of Ibrim is slain
+by a Nubian, no debt of blood is paid to the family of the
+deceased, he being considered a soldier, and not an Arab; but the
+governor still exacts his fine. Much animosity exists between the
+Kenous, and their southern neighbours the Noubas; the latter
+upbraiding the former with avarice, and bad faith, while the Kenous
+call the Noubas filthy slaves, living like the people of Soudan.
+Disputes and sanguinary quarrels often take place, in consequence,
+between the inhabitants of neighbouring villages; if death ensues,
+the family of the deceased has the option of taking the fine
+stipulated on such occasions, or of retaliating upon the family of
+the slayer. The people of Ibrim generally claim the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">[139]</span> right of retaliation; but it
+is not considered as sufficient to retaliate upon any person within
+the fifth degree of consanguinity, as among the Bedouins of Arabia;
+the brother, son, or first cousin only can supply the place of the
+murderer, and such being the case, the whole family often
+flies.</p>
+
+<p>Although the governors of Nubia extort large sums by the various
+means above-mentioned, yet their tyranny is exercised only upon the
+property of their subjects, who are never beaten or put to death,
+except when in a state of open rebellion, which happens not
+unfrequently.<a id="FNanchor_87"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_87">[68]</a>
+If a Nubian, from whom money is to be extorted, flies, his wife, or
+his young children, are imprisoned till he returns. This practice
+is much complained of by the people, and is unknown even among the
+tyrannical Pashas of Syria and Egypt, who respect the persons of
+the wives and children of their greatest enemies. The following is
+a curious method which the governors of Nubia have devised, of
+extorting money from their subjects. When any wealthy individual
+has a daughter of a suitable age, they demand her in marriage; the
+father seldom dares to refuse, and sometimes feels flattered by the
+honour; but he is soon ruined by his powerful son-in-law, who
+extorts from him every article of his property under the name of
+presents to his own daughter. All the governors are thus married to
+females in almost every considerable village; Hosseyn Kashef has
+above forty sons of whom twenty are married in the same manner.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of the banks of the Nile, from the first
+Cataract<span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">[140]</span> to the
+frontiers of Dóngola, do not plough their fields, after the
+inundation has subsided, as is done in Egypt; the waters above the
+Cataract never rising sufficiently high to overflow the shore. In a
+few places, where the cultivable soil is broader than usual, as at
+Kostamne, Gyrshe, Wady Halfa, &amp;c., there are canals which
+convey the water towards the fields on the side of the mountain,
+but the water in them is not sufficiently high, as in Upper Egypt,
+to irrigate the low grounds near the hills. Irrigation in Nubia,
+therefore, is carried on entirely by means of the Sakies, or
+water-wheels. Immediately after the river has subsided, the fields
+are watered by them, and the first Dhourra seed is sown, the crop
+from which is reaped in December and January; the ground is then
+again irrigated, and barley sown; and after the barley harvest, the
+ground is sometimes sown a third time for the summer crop. The
+barley is either sold in exchange for Dhourra, or eaten green in
+soups. The harvest suffers greatly from the ravages of immense
+flocks of sparrows, which the united efforts of all the children in
+the villages cannot always keep at a distance; and whole fields of
+Dhourra and barley are often destroyed by a species of small worm,
+which ascends the stalks of the plant. Tobacco is every where
+cultivated; it retains, when dried, its green colour, and exactly
+resembles that of the mountains on the east side of the Dead Sea.
+Tobacco forms the chief luxury of all classes, who either smoke it,
+or mixing it with nitre suck it, by placing it between the lower
+gums and the lip.</p>
+
+<p>The habitations of the Nubians are built either of mud or of
+loose stones; those of stone, as I have already observed, stand
+generally on the declivity of the hills, and consist of two
+separate round buildings, one of which is occupied by the males,
+and the other by the females of the family. The mud dwellings are
+generally so low, that one can hardly stand upright in them:
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">[141]</span> roof is covered
+with Dhourra stalks, which last till they are eaten up by the
+cattle, when palm leaves are laid across. The houses at Derr, and
+those of the wealthy inhabitants of the larger villages, are well
+built, having a large area in the centre with apartments all round,
+and a separation between those of the men and of the women. The
+utensils of a Nubian’s house consist of about half a dozen coarse
+earthen jars, from one to two feet in diameter, and about five feet
+in height, in which all the provisions of the family are kept; a
+few earthen plates; a hand-mill; a hatchet; and a few round sticks,
+over which the loom is laid.</p>
+
+<p>To the north of Derr, the dress is usually a linen shirt only,
+which the wealthier classes wear of a blue colour; or the woollen
+cloak of the peasants of Upper Egypt; the head dress is a small
+white linen cap, with sometimes a few rags twisted round it in the
+shape of a turban. Young boys and girls go naked: the women wrap
+themselves up in linen rags, or black woollen gowns; they wear
+ear-rings, and glass bracelets; and those who cannot afford to buy
+the latter, form them of straw. Their hair falls in ringlets upon
+the neck, and on the back part of the head they wear short tassels
+of glass or stones, both as an ornament and an amulet. The richer
+class wear copper or silver rings round their ankles. South of
+Derr, and principally at Sukkot and in Mahass, grown up people go
+quite naked, with the exception of the sexual parts, which the men
+conceal in a small sack. This sack resembles exactly what is seen
+in the figures of the Egyptian Priapus upon the walls of the
+temples. The hair of the people of Mahass is very thick, but not
+woolly. All the young men wear one ear-ring, either of silver or
+copper, in the right ear only, and men of all classes usually carry
+a rosary suspended round the neck, which they never remove; they
+also tie round one arm, above the elbow, a number of amulets
+covered with leather about three or four inches broad,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">[142]</span> consisting of mystical
+writings and prayers, which are sold to them by the Fokara.</p>
+
+<p>The Nubians seldom go unarmed; as soon as a boy grows up, his
+first endeavour is to purchase a short, crooked knife, which the
+men wear tied over the left elbow, under their shirt, and which
+they draw upon each other on the slightest quarrel. When a Nubian
+goes from one village to another, he either carries a long heavy
+stick (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نَبّوت</span>) covered with
+iron at one of its extremities, or his lance and target. The lance
+is about five feet in length, including the iron point; the targets
+are of various sizes; some are round, with a boss in the centre;
+others resemble the ancient Macedonian shield, being of an oblong
+form, four feet in length, and with curved edges, covering almost
+the whole body. These targets, which are sold by the Sheygya Arabs,
+are made of the skin of the hippopotamus, and are proof against the
+thrust of a lance, or the blow of a sabre. Those who can afford it,
+possess also a sword, resembling in shape the swords worn by the
+knights of the middle ages, a long straight blade, about two inches
+in breadth, with a handle in the form of a cross; the scabbard, for
+fashion sake, is broader near the point, than at the top. These
+swords are of German manufacture, and are sold to the Nubians by
+the merchants of Egypt, at from four to eight dollars apiece.
+Fire-arms are not common; the richer classes possess match-locks.
+Hassan Kashef himself had no pistols. Ammunition is very scarce and
+highly valued; travellers therefore will do well to carry with them
+a few dozen cartridges, which are very acceptable presents. When I
+left the camp of Mohammed Kashef at Tinareh, his nephew ran after
+me for at least two miles, to obtain a single cartridge from me,
+telling me that he had shot off the only one he had, during the
+rejoicings of the preceding day.</p>
+
+<p>I have already mentioned the usual dishes of the Nubians.
+The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">[143]</span> Dhourra bread
+is extremely coarse, and is made without salt.<a id="FNanchor_88"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_88">[69]</a> It is prepared upon the Sadj, or thin
+iron plate in use among the Bedouin Arabs; but as the whole
+operation of grinding, kneading, and baking does not occupy more
+than ten minutes, it may easily be supposed that it is never
+thoroughly baked. The Dhourra for the day’s use is ground early
+every morning by the women, for the Nubians never keep meal in
+store. In Sukkot and Mahass, the bread is made in very thin round
+cakes, which are placed upon each other when served up at meals.
+Animal food is rarely tasted by the Nubians; the governors even do
+not eat it every day. In the larger villages palm-wine is common;
+it is not unpleasant to the taste, though too sweet and thick, to
+be drank in any considerable quantity. It is obtained by the
+following process: as soon as the dates have come to maturity they
+are thrown into large earthen boilers, with water, and the whole is
+boiled for two days, without intermission; the liquid is then
+strained, and the clear juice is poured into earthen jars, which
+after being well closed, are buried under ground; here they are
+allowed to remain for ten or twelve days, during which the liquor
+ferments; the jars are then taken up, and their contents are fit to
+drink; but the wine will not keep longer than a year, or beyond the
+next date-harvest; if kept longer it turns sour. The Nubians also
+make a liquor called Bouza, much resembling beer; it is extracted
+from Dhourra or barley, but the best is furnished by the latter. It
+is of a pale muddy colour, and very nutricious. At Cairo, and in
+all the towns and larger villages of Upper Egypt, there are shops
+for the sale of Bouza, which are kept exclusively by Nubians. Great
+quantities both of the wine, and of the spirit distilled from
+dates, are drank at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">[144]</span>
+Derr, where they are sold in shops kept for the purpose, and where
+the upper classes are intoxicated with them every evening. From
+Siout, southward, through the whole of Upper Egypt, date spirits
+are made and publicly sold; and the Pasha levies a tax upon the
+venders. A kind of jelly or honey is also extracted from the date,
+which serves the rich as a sweet-meat. Except date trees, and a few
+grape vines which I saw at Derr, there are no fruit-trees in
+Nubia.</p>
+
+<p>The climate of Nubia, though intensely hot in summer,
+particularly in the narrow rocky parts of the country, is very
+healthy, owing perhaps to the extreme aridity of the atmosphere. I
+do not recollect having seen a single person labouring under any
+disease, during the five weeks I was in the country. Occasionally,
+the small-pox, as I have already observed, makes dreadful ravages
+in every part except the Wady Kenous; inoculation being unknown, or
+at least unpractised, both here and in Upper Egypt; and the several
+attempts that have been made to introduce the vaccine into the
+latter country, or rather to establish it there, having entirely
+failed. Some travellers have supposed that the plague is
+communicated to Egypt from the south; but this is a very erroneous
+supposition, as it never prevails in Nubia so high as the second
+Cataract, and is unknown in Dóngola, and along the whole route to
+Sennaar.</p>
+
+<p>The men in Nubia are generally well made, strong, and muscular,
+with fine features; in stature they are somewhat below the
+Egyptians; they have no mustachios, and but little beard, wearing
+it under the chin only, like the figures of the fugitives in the
+battle-pieces sculptured upon the walls of the Egyptian temples. In
+passing along the Wadys of Nubia, it often occurred to me to remark
+that the size and figure of the inhabitants was generally
+proportioned to the breadth of their cultivable soil; wherever
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">[145]</span> plain is broad,
+and the peasants from being enabled to carry on agriculture to a
+tolerable extent, are in comparatively easy circumstances, they are
+taller and more muscular and healthy; but in the rocky districts,
+where the plain is not more than twenty or thirty yards in breadth,
+they are poor meagre figures; in some places appearing almost like
+walking skeletons.</p>
+
+<p>The women are all well made, and though not handsome, have
+generally sweet countenances, and very pleasing manners; I have
+even seen beauties among them. Denon has certainly not done justice
+to them; but they are worn down, from their earliest years, by
+continual labour; the whole business of the house being left to
+them, while the men are occupied exclusively in the culture of the
+soil. Of all the women of the East, those of Nubia are the most
+virtuous; and this is the more praiseworthy, as their vicinity to
+Upper Egypt, where licentiousness knows no bounds, might be
+expected to have some influence upon them. During my stay at Esne,
+girls came every morning to my lodging to offer milk for sale; the
+Egyptians boldly entered the court-yard and uncovered their faces,
+a behaviour equivalent to an offer of their persons; but the
+Nubians (of whom many families are settled at Esne) stood modestly
+before the threshold, over which nothing could induce them to step,
+and there they received the money for their milk without removing
+their veils.</p>
+
+<p>The Nubians purchase their wives from the parents: the price
+usually paid by the Kenous is twelve Mahboubs, or thirty-six
+piastres. They frequently intermarry with the Arabs Ababde, some of
+whom cultivate the soil like themselves; an Ababde girl is worth
+six camels; these are paid to her father, who gives back three to
+his daughter, to be the common property of her and her husband; if
+a divorce takes place, half the value of the three<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">[146]</span> camels goes to the
+latter.<a id="FNanchor_89"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_89">[70]</a> In Upper Egypt, when a
+wife insists upon being divorced, her husband has the right to take
+all her wearing apparel from her, and to shave her head; nobody
+will then marry her till her hair be grown again. The Nubian is
+extremely jealous of his wife’s honour; and on the slightest
+suspicion of infidelity towards him, would carry her in the night
+to the side of the river, lay open her breast by a cut with his
+knife, and throw her into the water, “to be food for the
+crocodiles,” as they term it. A case of this kind lately happened
+at Assouan.</p>
+
+<p>Public women, who are met with in thousands in every part of
+Egypt, are not tolerated in Nubia, except at Derr, and these are
+not natives, but emancipated female slaves, who being left
+destitute, betake themselves to this vile profession, to gain a
+subsistence. The execrable propensities which the Mamelouks have
+rendered so common in Egypt, even amongst the lowest peasants, are
+held in abhorrence in Nubia, except by the Kashefs and their
+relations, who endeavour to imitate the Mamelouks in every thing,
+even in their most detestable vices.</p>
+
+<p>Small looms are frequently seen in the houses of the Nubians;
+with these the women weave very coarse woollen mantles, and cotton
+cloth, which they make into shirts. From the leaves of the
+date-tree they also form mats, small drinking bowls, and large
+plates on which the bread is served at table; and though these
+articles are formed entirely by the hand, they are made in so very
+neat a manner, as to have every appearance of being wrought by
+instruments. The above are the only manufactures in Nubia; every
+thing else is imported from Egypt.</p>
+
+<p><img alt="" class="float-right iw8" src="images/i30.jpg" id="i30">The only musical instrument I saw in Nubia was a kind of
+Egyptian tamboura, with five strings, and covered with the skin of
+a gazell: it is of the shape here<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">[147]</span> represented. The girls are fond of singing;
+and the Nubian airs are very melodious.</p>
+
+<p>The game of chess is common at Derr; and that called Beyadh is
+also frequently played. I have described the latter in my journal
+through Arabia Petræa, when speaking of the Arabs of Kerek.</p>
+
+<p>I found the Nubians, generally, to be of a kind disposition, and
+without that propensity to theft so characteristic of the
+Egyptians, at least of those to the north of Siout. Pilfering
+indeed is almost unknown amongst them, and any person convicted of
+such a crime would be expelled from his village by the unanimous
+voice of its inhabitants; I did not lose the most trifling article
+during my journey through the country, although I always slept in
+the open air in front of the house where I took up my quarters for
+the night. They are in general hospitable towards strangers, but
+the Kenous and the people of Sukkot are less so than the other
+inhabitants. Curiosity seems to be the most prominent feature in
+their character, and they generally ask their guest a thousand
+questions about the place he comes from, and the business which
+brings him into Nubia.</p>
+
+<p>If the government were not so extremely despotic, the Nubians
+might become dangerous neighbours to Egypt; for they are of a much
+bolder and more independent spirit than the Egyptians, and ardently
+attached to their native soil. Great numbers of them go yearly to
+Cairo, where they generally act as porters, and are preferred to
+the Egyptians, on account of their honesty. After staying there six
+or eight years, they return to their native Wady, with the little
+property they have realized, although well knowing that the only
+luxuries they can there expect, in exchange for those of Cairo, are
+Dhourra bread and a linen shirt. Such of them as do not travel into
+Egypt, hardly ever go beyond the precincts of their village, for,
+generally, the Nubians have no<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">[148]</span> inclination towards commercial
+speculations. At Ibrim I met with two old men, who assured me that
+they had never visited Derr, though it is only five hours distant.
+Those Nubians who have resided in Egypt, and can speak Arabic, are
+for the most part good Mussulmen, and repeat their prayers daily:
+but in general the only prayer known to the others is the
+exclamation of Allahu Akbar. A few make the pilgrimage to Mekka, by
+the way of Suakin.</p>
+
+<p>I estimate the whole population of Nubia, from Assouan to the
+southern limits of Mahass, an extent of country about five hundred
+miles long, with an average breadth of half a mile, at one hundred
+thousand souls.</p>
+
+<hr class="decordb width10 spaced3">
+
+<p>I shall subjoin to this account of Nubia some notices upon the
+Bedouins who inhabit the mountains lying between that country and
+the Red sea. They consist of two principal tribes, the Ababde and
+Bisharye. The Ababde (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عبابده</span>)
+occupy the country south of Kosseir, nearly as far as the latitude
+of Derr. The Bisharye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بشاري</span>)
+inhabit the mountains from thence southwards, as far as Suakin,
+where they find pasture for their camels and cattle in the wild
+herbage which grows in the beds of the winter torrents. Many of the
+Ababde have settled in Upper Egypt, on the east bank of the Nile
+from Kenne to Assouan, and from thence to Derr; but the greater
+part of them still live like Bedouins. They act as guides to the
+Sennaar caravans which depart from Daraou (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دَراوُ</span>), and were formerly conductors likewise of
+the trade from Kosseir to Kenne; but their enemies, the Arabs
+Maazyu (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">معازي</span>) and Ataony
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عَتاونه</span>), who live to the
+north of Kosseir, have succeeded in depriving them of the profits
+arising from this employment, which the latter now farm from the
+Pasha of Egypt. The Ababde are possessed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">[149]</span> of considerable property, but have a bad
+character, being described by all those who deal with them as a
+faithless people, who betray their companions, thus rendering
+themselves unworthy of that origin from the Arabian Bedouins, of
+which they boast. No oath binds an Ababde; but I was informed that
+they dread breaking their word, if they give it with the
+expression, “by the hope I entertain of remaining in good health
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وحياة العا فيه</span>).” They are
+known in Upper Egypt for their excellent breed of camels,
+particularly dromedaries, and they trade largely in Senna-Mekke,
+and in charcoal of acacia wood, both of which are produced from the
+trees, growing abundantly in their mountains; the fuel is exported
+as far as Cairo. The Ababde have few horses; when at war with other
+Arab tribes they fight upon camels, armed with a target, lance, and
+sword. Their principal tribes are, El Fokara (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فُقَره</span>), El Ashabat (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عشَابات</span>), and El Meleykab (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مليقاب</span>). The Ashabat seldom descend from the mountains
+to the banks of the Nile, but many individuals of the tribe have
+settled on its banks near Mograt and Demar, on the route to
+Sennaar, where they have intermarried with the native inhabitants.
+Such of them as encamp with the Bisharye speak the language of the
+latter.</p>
+
+<p>The Bisharye, who rarely descend from their mountains, are a
+very savage people, and their character is worse even than that of
+the Ababde. Their only cattle are camels and sheep, and they live
+entirely upon flesh and milk, eating much of the former raw;
+according to the relation of several Nubians, they are very fond of
+the hot blood of slaughtered sheep; but their greatest luxury is
+said to be the raw marrow of camels. A few of these Arabs
+occasionally visit Derr or Assouan, with Senna, sheep, and ostrich
+feathers, the ostrich being common in their mountains; and their
+Senna is of the best kind. In exchange for these commodities they
+take linen shirts and Dhourra, the grains of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">[150]</span> which they swallow raw, as a dainty, and
+never make it into bread. These traders do not remain long on the
+banks of the Nile, as the dread of the small-pox soon drives them
+back to their tents. The Bisharye are much addicted to theft, and
+will even rob the house of the person who receives them as guests.
+Their youth make plundering excursions as far as Dóngola, and along
+the route to Sennaar, mounted upon camels, of a breed superior to
+any other, that exists between the shores of the Mediterranean and
+Abyssinia. Few of the Bisharye speak Arabic. They fear none but the
+Ababde, who know their pasturing places in the mountains, and often
+surprise their encampments. When the two tribes are at peace, which
+happens to be the case at present, the mountains inhabited by the
+Bisharye may be crossed in the company of an Ababdi; but the latter
+is not to be trusted, unless one of his nearest relations is left
+behind as a hostage. Great numbers of the dispersed Mamelouks fell
+victims to the treachery of these Arabs, and the others escaped
+only by keeping together in considerable bodies.</p>
+
+<p>Encampments of the Bisharye are found on the northern frontier
+of Abyssinia; and the sea-coast from Suakin to Massuah is peopled
+by their tribes, the most noted of which are, Hammedab, Batra,
+Alyab, Amerab, Kamhetab, Hamdora, Eryab, Hazz, Modourab, Kameylab,
+el Amarer, all of whom live in separate encampments, and are often
+at war with each other. They have no fire-arms; towards the
+frontiers of Abyssinia some of the tribes use the bow and arrow,
+and, as I was informed, speak the Abyssinian language, or rather
+understand the Abyssinians, who are said to have greater difficulty
+in comprehending the Bisharye. The two languages are probably
+derived from the same source, like many others of the numerous
+dialects which prevail towards the northern frontiers of
+Abyssinia.</p>
+
+<p>The Bisharye are kind, hospitable, and honest towards
+each<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">[151]</span> other; their
+women, who are said to be as handsome as those of Abyssinia, mix in
+company with strangers, and are reported to be of very depraved
+habits. After long and fruitless enquiries for a Bisharye Arab, I
+at last met with a youth who had come to Esne to sell leather
+thongs, for the manufacture of which these Bedouins are famous. I
+enticed him to my dwelling by bargaining for his goods, and made
+him breakfast with me; but when I began to question him about his
+language he would stay no longer, although I offered him a shirt as
+a present. He imagined that I dealt in spells, which I meant to put
+in practise to the injury of his nation; he forced his way out of
+the court-yard of my house, and I could never afterwards prevail
+upon him to return. The words in the annexed
+vocabulary,<a id="FNanchor_90"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_90">[71]</a>
+were procured from a Negro slave who had been educated among the
+Bisharye, and sold by them to the chief of a village near Esne.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftc2">
+<p class="fthead">FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>Single men are always easily found, to act as
+guides, but few are willing to expose their own beasts to the
+chances of a dangerous journey.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p class="center"><a id="Footnote_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21"><span class="label">[2]</span></a>The different
+items of expense during my journey were as follow:</p>
+
+<table class="tdr bd-collapse" id="t003">
+<thead>
+<tr>
+<th>
+</th>
+<th>Piast.</th>
+<th>Par.</th>
+</tr>
+</thead>
+
+<tbody>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">To the guide from Assouan to Derr</td>
+<td class="pad-right1">6</td>
+<td>20</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Present to him</td>
+<td class="pad-right1">0</td>
+<td>10</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Dhourra, bought at Assouan</td>
+<td class="pad-right1">1</td>
+<td>30</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Bread and onions, bought at Assouan</td>
+<td class="pad-right1">0</td>
+<td>25</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Present to the servant of the governor, at
+Derr</td>
+<td class="pad-right1">1</td>
+<td>0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl width20">Present to the secretary, for writing a
+letter to Sukkot, which induced him to recommend me in strong
+terms</td>
+<td class="pad-right1 tdr-bot">1</td>
+<td class="tdr-bot">0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Provisions of Dhourra from Derr to Mahass</td>
+<td class="pad-right1">6</td>
+<td>0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Tobacco bought at Derr</td>
+<td class="pad-right1">1</td>
+<td>0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Shoes repaired at Derr</td>
+<td class="pad-right1">0</td>
+<td>5</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Paid on the way to my guide to Mahass</td>
+<td class="pad-right1">1</td>
+<td>0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Paid wages to my guide on my return to Derr</td>
+<td class="pad-right1">6</td>
+<td>20</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Present to my guide</td>
+<td class="pad-right1">2</td>
+<td>0</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Paid to Nubians, for shewing me the ruins, on the
+road from Derr to Assouan</td>
+<td class="pad-right1">1</td>
+<td>10</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Ferry-boat at Debot</td>
+<td class="pad-right1">0</td>
+<td>10</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">To the guide from Derr to Assouan</td>
+<td class="pad-right1">6</td>
+<td>20</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Present to him</td>
+<td class="pad-right1">0</td>
+<td>20</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="pad-right1 bt">36</td>
+<td class="bt">10</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+
+<p class="center">or, £1. 15s. sterling.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22"><span class="label">[3]</span></a>Anas el Wodjoud; i. e. “the social pleasures
+of Wodjoud.” Wodjoud, say the Arabs, was the name of the mighty
+king who built the temples of Philæ.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23"><span class="label">[4]</span></a>There are two species of Holcus cultivated in
+Egypt, nearly resembling one another in appearance before they
+ripen, but bearing a very different kind of grain, the one being
+that which we commonly call Maize or Indian corn, the other a small
+grain like millet, the same which is known in the West Indies by
+the name of Guinea corn. Maize being suited to a more northerly
+climate, is little grown in Upper Egypt, where it is known by the
+name of Dhourra es-Shamy (Syrian Dhourra). In Nubia the
+millet-grained Dhourra is exclusively cultivated.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24"><span class="label">[5]</span></a>Since the Mamelouks have retired to Dóngola,
+Mohammed Aly, the Pasha of Egypt, has prohibited the sale of
+gunpowder in every part of Upper Egypt. He has thus cut off his
+enemies’ ammunition, who pay at present, in Dóngola, one slave for
+every six dozen of musquet cartridges.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25"><span class="label">[6]</span></a>Vide infra.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26"><span class="label">[7]</span></a>From March till June the waters of the Nile
+are quite limpid. Volney, who exclaims against its muddy stream,
+saw it only in autumn and winter.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27"><span class="label">[8]</span></a>Vide infra.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28"><span class="label">[9]</span></a>This is the only spot, where I know the Nile
+to be fordable.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29"><span class="label">[10]</span></a>A Highlander, who had been taken prisoner in
+the unfortunate affair at Rosetta, in 1807, and had afterwards
+joined the Mamelouks, has lately arrived at Cairo. He left the
+Mamelouks at Dongola, and traced his way back, alone, through Nubia
+and Upper Egypt, notwithstanding the spies of the Pasha.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30"><span class="label">[11]</span></a>One of the servants of these Begs, a Greek
+Christian of Brusa, in Asia Minor, assured me afterwards, at Derr,
+that their party, being unable to forego the habit of smoking, had,
+in a total want of tobacco, in the mountains, filled their pipes
+with the dry dung of the Gazells.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31"><span class="label">[12]</span></a>Concerning this tribe, and their language,
+vide infra.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32"><span class="label">[13]</span></a>I have since been in the mountains of Sinai,
+where I found another tribe of Bedouins, called Aleykat, settled in
+the southern valleys of that province. They all affirmed that the
+Aleykat of Nubia were their brethren, and originally a colony from
+them. Some years since, a poor man of the Sinai Aleykat took the
+resolution of visiting those of Nubia, and of collecting a few
+presents: he was well received at Wady Seboua, as one of their
+brethren, and returned with several camels, purchased with the alms
+he had obtained from every family in that place.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33"><span class="label">[14]</span></a>A caravan of from thirty to forty laden
+camels proceeds every winter from Seboua to Cairo. The merchants of
+Seboua are accustomed to enter into partnership with the poor
+Nubians; to whom they advance sums of money, to induce them to try
+a trading journey to Berber, and on their return take half the
+profits. There are families who have thus been mutually travelling
+partners from time immemorial. The distance between Seboua and
+Mograt, on the Nile, north of Berber (vide infra), is seven days
+easy travelling. Three days from Seboua is a large well called Rebt
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ربت</span>); and another at five
+days journey.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34"><span class="label">[15]</span></a>In all these parts soap is a very acceptable
+present, none being made in Egypt, except at Siout, which is of a
+very inferior quality. It is imported from Syria, and principally
+from Palestine. At Esne, one pound of soap is worth 1<em>s</em>.
+6<em>d</em>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35"><span class="label">[16]</span></a>This grain is not sown in Egypt, but is a
+principal food in Darfour, Sennaar, and on the coast of the Red
+Sea, from Djidda to Mokha.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36"><span class="label">[17]</span></a>All Orientals have a delicate taste of
+water, and generally describe its qualities by the words light and
+heavy. The Greeks in like manner distinguished waters into κοῦφα
+and βαρέα.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37"><span class="label">[18]</span></a>The Doum (Palma Thebaica) is a common tree
+in Egypt as far north as Dendera.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38"><span class="label">[19]</span></a>Vide my Journal in Hauran.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39"><span class="label">[20]</span></a>The inhabitants of Nouba, and Wady Kenous,
+as far as Dongola, are known in Egypt under the name of Berábera
+(sing. Berbery); but that appellation is seldom made use of by the
+inhabitants themselves, when speaking of their own nation. It is
+probably derived from the name of the country called Berber, which
+lies in the direction of Bruce’s Goos. The people of Berber are
+sometimes considered as belonging to the Nouba.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40"><span class="label">[21]</span></a>The descendants of many Bedouin tribes are
+found in every part of Egypt north of Minia; the greater part of
+the peasants of Upper Egypt are of Bedouin origin; and branches of
+several Syrian tribes, have even settled on the banks of the
+Nile.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41"><span class="label">[22]</span></a>Statues are met with in the adyta of all the
+ancient temples in Nubia which are cut out of the rock; and the
+distribution of the apartments in those temples is much the same as
+in the one here described.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42"><span class="label">[23]</span></a>Vide infra.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43"><span class="label">[24]</span></a>Vide infra.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44"><span class="label">[25]</span></a>See <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_12">p.
+12.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45"><span class="label">[26]</span></a>I never heard the Nubians speak of
+crocodiles of a monstrous size; I conceive that the largest I saw
+was about twenty-five feet in length. Crocodiles as large as that
+in the British Museum, are met with on the Nile only in the
+latitude of Shendy and Sennaar.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46"><span class="label">[27]</span></a>Akabe is a term very frequently met with in
+Arabian geography; it generally designates a mountainous district,
+or a rocky descent, over which the road lies.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47"><span class="label">[28]</span></a>Vide my Journal through Arabia Petræa.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48"><span class="label">[29]</span></a>See <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_31">p.
+31.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49"><span class="label">[30]</span></a>Vide infra.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50"><span class="label">[31]</span></a>There is no <em>village</em> bearing the
+name of Sukkot; it is a mere territorial appellation.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51"><span class="label">[32]</span></a>The few Nubians who know how to write, and
+who serve the governors in the capacity of secretaries, are taught
+by the Fokara of Damer, south of Goos, (vide Bruce’s Map), who are
+all learned men, and travel occasionally to Cairo as already
+mentioned, to visit the mosque El Azhar. On their way thither they
+alight at the houses of the rich inhabitants, and teach their
+children to read and write. Many of the children of Sukkot and
+Mahass are likewise sent to the school of the Arabs Sheygya, where
+they remain for ten years and upwards, and are fed and taught
+gratuitously by the Olema of that tribe.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52"><span class="label">[33]</span></a>See <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_39">p.
+39.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53"><span class="label">[34]</span></a>M. Rosetti has, for many years, had the
+trade in Senna exclusively in his own hands; and has factors at
+Esne and Assouan. Since Mohammed Aly has farmed out almost all the
+articles of commerce, both foreign and domestic, M. Rosetti has
+paid for the monopoly of Senna 150 purses per annum, or about
+£3,500.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54"><span class="label">[35]</span></a>I have already observed, that the water of
+the wells in Upper Egypt is of the worst kind, although dug in the
+neighbourhood of the river, from which the wells are no doubt
+supplied, by the water filtrating through the ground after the
+inundation, and collecting at a depth of from twenty to thirty
+feet. See p. <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_22">22,</a> <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_23">3.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55"><span class="label">[36]</span></a>In the mountains east of the Dead Sea are
+Bedouins called Beni Hamyde.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56"><span class="label">[37]</span></a>See <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_29">p.
+29.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57"><span class="label">[38]</span></a>The Mhoury is a measure corresponding with
+twelve Mouds of Cairo, or about eight bushels.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58"><span class="label">[39]</span></a>The whips known in the East under the name
+of Korbadj, are made of the skin of the hippopotamus, and form an
+article of commerce with the Sennaar and Darfour caravans.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59"><span class="label">[40]</span></a>I found the reports of distances to be very
+contradictory; the only mode of reckoning is by days journeys; but
+the daily rate of camels, when not travelling in caravans, is
+subject to great variation.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60"><span class="label">[41]</span></a>Merawe is seven days journeys distant from
+Demar (vide Bruce’s Map). Between Merawe and Bruce’s Goos lies the
+country of Mograt <span class="arabic" lang="ar">مُقراط</span>,
+whose chief, Naym, is a robber; he often attacks the caravans which
+travel from Goos to Egypt, if their numbers are not sufficient to
+overawe him. Mograt is three days journeys from Goos. This latter
+name is not known to the Africans of those parts which I visited;
+but they are well acquainted with the county called Berber, which
+lies one day’s journey north of Demar, and therefore corresponds
+with Bruce’s Goos. The caravans from Berber arrive, at present,
+almost every month in Upper Egypt.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61"><span class="label">[42]</span></a>See <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_21">p.
+21.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62"><span class="label">[43]</span></a>I saw this chief at Siout, a naked black,
+without the smallest sign of royalty about him.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63"><span class="label">[44]</span></a>When at Esne in the June following, I saw
+persons from Dóngola, who brought intelligence that the Mamelouks
+had failed in their attempt against Merawe, and had returned to
+Dóngola.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64"><span class="label">[45]</span></a>See <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_55">p.
+55.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65"><span class="label">[46]</span></a>See <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_52">p.
+52.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66"><span class="label">[47]</span></a>See <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_47">p.
+47.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67"><span class="label">[48]</span></a>The Arabian historians and geographers give
+the cataracts of the Nile the appellation of Shellal, or Djenadel
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شلّال</span>), (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جنادل</span>). Of the latter generic term, the
+proper name, Jan Adel, has been framed, and applied exclusively to
+this cataract, on European maps.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68"><span class="label">[49]</span></a>The reports of my guide, and of many other
+persons, had made me very anxious to see the second Cataract, the
+water of which, I was told, “fell down, as if from heaven!” When,
+after seeing it, I reprimanded my guide for his extravagant
+description, he replied, “Why, have you seen a finer cataract, from
+Cairo to Mahass?” But the reports of these people are still less to
+be depended upon than even those of the Syrian Arabs. I was told by
+many Nubians that the distance from Derr to Mahass was sixteen days
+and nights journeys; but I found it to be only ten; they in like
+manner endeavoured to deceive me, in numberless other instances,
+whenever I asked questions which appeared to them out of the common
+course of conversation, the continual topic of which is, the price
+of dates and Dhourra, the taxes on the water-wheels, and complaints
+on the injustice of the governors.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_69"></a><a href="#FNanchor_69"><span class="label">[50]</span></a>The word dromedary is here used (according
+to a custom general among the <em>Franks</em> in the Levant), to
+distinguish the camel of lighter make, fit for riding, from the
+camel of burthen.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_70"></a><a href="#FNanchor_70"><span class="label">[51]</span></a>A sort of shawl worn about the neck and
+shoulders by the Egyptians.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_71"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71"><span class="label">[52]</span></a>See <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_17">p.
+17.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_72"></a><a href="#FNanchor_72"><span class="label">[53]</span></a>It is a curious fact, which has been
+attested to me by many persons, that the small-pox has never been
+known to visit the Wady Kenous or the narrow shore from the
+Cataract up to Korosko. This disease is well known at Derr, where
+it is much dreaded.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_73"></a><a href="#FNanchor_73"><span class="label">[54]</span></a>This narrow room behind the pronaos is
+peculiar to some of the temples of Nubia; I have not seen it in
+Egypt; nor do I know whether I should be right in calling it the
+cella.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_74"></a><a href="#FNanchor_74"><span class="label">[55]</span></a>In Nubia the figure of Briareus has the hair
+of the head cut like that of the Arabs and the Noubas, with rings
+in the ears, exactly resembling the Noubas and inhabitants of
+Mahass at the present day. It is possible that the Briareus may
+have originated in some great chieftain of the desert, vanquished
+by the king of Egypt, and converted by the priests into a
+many-headed monster, in conformity with an adage current in the
+East, in speaking of the Bedouin robbers, “Cut off one head and a
+hundred will spring up in its stead:” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اقطع راس الواحد تطلع ماية عَوضَه</span>).</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_75"></a><a href="#FNanchor_75"><span class="label">[56]</span></a>In the little room, in one of the tombs of
+the kings at Thebes, where articles of furniture are represented on
+the walls, I observed a heap of similarly shaped blocks of wood, a
+proof that it was made use of in the manufacture of the choicest
+articles of furniture.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_76"></a><a href="#FNanchor_76"><span class="label">[57]</span></a>In countries where camels are bred in great
+numbers, land-carriage is almost as cheap as that by water. The
+carriage for a camel-load of goods, weighing from six to seven
+hundred pounds English, from Bagdad to Aleppo, a distance of six
+hundred miles, is £4. What is the freight by sea of seven quintals,
+from London to Hull?</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_77"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77"><span class="label">[58]</span></a>See <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_110">p. 110.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_78"></a><a href="#FNanchor_78"><span class="label">[59]</span></a>Near the western avenue of sphinxes at
+Karnac a monolith temple lies on the ground, resembling the one at
+Gaou, but smaller.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_79"></a><a href="#FNanchor_79"><span class="label">[60]</span></a>One para is the usual fare of a ferry-boat
+in Egypt.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_80"></a><a href="#FNanchor_80"><span class="label">[61]</span></a>The secretary of Hassan Kashef at Derr, told
+me that there were details on the history of Nubia, in the history
+of the city of Béhnese (Oxyrinchus), which work is among the Arabic
+manuscripts sent by me to England from Aleppo. The best Arabian
+historian of Nubia is Ibn Selym el Assouany (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابن سليم الاصواني في اخبار النوبة</span>); but I never
+saw his book either in Syria or Egypt.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_81"></a><a href="#FNanchor_81"><span class="label">[62]</span></a>The greater part of the Egyptian peasants
+north of Benisouef have the same origin: they are the descendants
+either of Moggrebyn or Arabian tribes. In Egypt I have even met
+with the descendants of Syrian Bedouins.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_82"></a><a href="#FNanchor_82"><span class="label">[63]</span></a>See <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_26">p.
+26.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_83"></a><a href="#FNanchor_83"><span class="label">[64]</span></a>When the Turkish troops, under Ibrahim Beg,
+after driving the Mamelouks into the eastern mountains, occupied
+Nubia as far as Wady Halfa, the three princes retired with their
+followers into Dóngola, and remained there till the Turks withdrew
+towards Assouan, when they returned to Derr.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_84"></a><a href="#FNanchor_84"><span class="label">[65]</span></a>In November 1813, Mohammed Kashef arrived at
+Esne, in his way to Siout, for the purpose of visiting Ibrahim
+Pasha, the governor of Upper Egypt, who, it was well known,
+entertained hostile designs against Nubia. Being anxious to
+conciliate the Pasha, he had brought with him presents of slaves,
+dromedaries, and Dóngola horses; but the chief object of the
+Kashef’s journey was to complain against Hosseyn, his eldest
+brother, who had lately invested his two eldest sons, Daoud and
+Khalil, with a share of the government of Nubia, and had obliged
+his two brothers to divide the revenue equally, with their nephews,
+thus creating five governors of the country. At Esne, Mohammed met
+a troop of about one hundred soldiers, who had been dispatched by
+Ibrahim Pasha, against Nubia; deeming it useless, therefore, to
+proceed farther, he returned towards his home with the Turks, at
+whose approach his two brothers fled to the island of Okme, beyond
+the second cataract at Wady Halfa, notwithstanding every promise of
+safety. The Turks pursued their march as far as Wady Halfa,
+collecting from every Sakie in the name of Ibrahim Pasha, the
+land-tax, of which they allowed Mohammed Kashef about one-twelfth
+of the whole amount, for his own subsistence. It was evidently the
+object of this expedition to seize the persons of all the
+governors; but in this it failed. After staying nearly a year in
+the country, in the course of which they collected the land-tax,
+from the summer seed also, the Turks returned to Upper Egypt. In
+1815, the Turks again visited Nubia, and compelled the peasants to
+furnish the amount of the imposts in camels, instead of grain; as
+soon as they withdrew, the Kashefs returned to Derr, and, in their
+turn also exacted the land-tax from their subjects, who are now
+exposed both to the rapacity of the Turks and to that of their own
+governors, all equally merciless, owing to the uncertain duration
+of their respective powers.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_85"></a><a href="#FNanchor_85"><span class="label">[66]</span></a>In 1813, the taxes levied upon the above
+produce from every Sakie, was eight Erdebs; and wherever the
+governors of Nubia repaired in person to the village, to collect
+it, an additional assessment of four fat sheep and one Erdeb was
+made, as provision for the governor’s followers and horses.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_86"></a><a href="#FNanchor_86"><span class="label">[67]</span></a>The quantity of dates imported from Nubia,
+by way of Assouan, into Egypt varies, according to the harvest,
+from fifteen hundred to two thousand Erdebs annually; every Erdeb
+weighing about two hundred weight. The freight from Assouan to
+Cairo is five piastres per Erdeb, from each of which the governor
+of Assouan takes half a piastre, as transit duty. The date trade,
+which is extremely profitable, is now, for the greater part, in the
+hands of the government.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_87"></a><a href="#FNanchor_87"><span class="label">[68]</span></a>The Arab tribe called by the Nubians
+Amenelab (probably <span class="arabic" lang="ar">اُمَّة
+الاب</span>, for they pronounce the Arabic very badly) who inhabit
+the villages about Gyrshe are known frequently to oppose the
+governors; they are the most independent tribe of the Kenous Arabs,
+and never give their daughters in marriage to any of the followers
+of the governors.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_88"></a><a href="#FNanchor_88"><span class="label">[69]</span></a>The people who live in the vicinity of
+ancient habitations, or mounds of rubbish, procure, by digging, a
+substance called Mabouk, which they put into their bread as a
+substitute for salt.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_89"></a><a href="#FNanchor_89"><span class="label">[70]</span></a>See <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_34">p.
+34</a> for the marriage customs of the people at Ibrim.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_90"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90"><span class="label">[71]</span></a>Vide infra, <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_160">p. 160.</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h3 class="pb"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">[153]</span><span class="xlarge letter-spaced">VOCABULARY</span><br>
+<span class="small">OF THE</span><br>
+<span class="large letter-spaced word-spaced4">KENSY AND NOUBA
+LANGUAGES:</span>
+</h3>
+
+<p class="center"><img alt="[Decoration]" class="iwsym1" src="images/decor.jpg" id="img_images_decor.jpg"> [The words derived from the Arabic, and especially
+from the dialect of Upper Egypt, are marked A.]</p>
+
+<hr class="decordb width8 spaced2">
+
+<table class="tdl-mid less" id="t153">
+<thead>
+<tr>
+<th>
+</th>
+<th>
+</th>
+<th><span class="sc">Kensy.</span>
+</th>
+<th><span class="sc">Nouba.</span>
+</th>
+</tr>
+</thead>
+
+<tbody>
+<tr>
+<td class="width10">Heaven</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Semeyg, A.</td>
+<td>Sema, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>World</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Duinat, A.</td>
+<td>Duniatyka, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Day</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ougresk</td>
+<td>Aly</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Night</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ougouk</td>
+<td>Awaka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Stars</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Woussik</td>
+<td>Windjega</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sun</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Masilk</td>
+<td>Mashakka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Shade</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Noogy</td>
+<td>Norga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Moon</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ounatig</td>
+<td>Inatiga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wind</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tourouk</td>
+<td>Tonga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Rain</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Anessik</td>
+<td>Omorka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Clouds</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ghaimk, A.</td>
+<td>Korungad</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Water</td>
+<td rowspan="3">⎫<br>
+⎬<br>
+⎭</td>
+<td rowspan="3">Essig</td>
+<td rowspan="3">Amanga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sea</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>River</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Inundation</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Mossirk</td>
+<td>Dahmyre, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>North</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kalonger</td>
+<td>Kaloga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>South</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ongoger</td>
+<td>Oroga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>East</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Maltigi</td>
+<td>Mattoga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>West</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tingaro</td>
+<td>Tinoga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Year</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Djeng</td>
+<td>Gemga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Last year</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nyg</td>
+<td>Gemdjorok</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Year before last</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nisetti</td>
+<td>Nisidadjorok</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Month</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Zoueyg</td>
+<td>Shaher, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ramadhan (month)</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dirtek</td>
+<td>Misse</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Rabya el awal (do)</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Timangy</td>
+<td>Timanga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Summer</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bogong</td>
+<td>Fagonga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Winter</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Otty</td>
+<td>Oronga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Morning</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tedjerky, A.</td>
+<td>Mashanak</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Evening</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Mogrebky, A.</td>
+<td>Megrebeddo. A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Earth</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Aryd, A.</td>
+<td>Gourka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Shore or mountain</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Koloug</td>
+<td>Kitta</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sand</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Seevky</td>
+<td>Seevka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wood</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Berk</td>
+<td>Koygga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Trees</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Djaoug</td>
+<td>Djollaga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dust</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kodeya</td>
+<td>Toka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Fire</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Yk</td>
+<td>Eeka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Coals</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Olutti</td>
+<td>Girgeeta</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cattle</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Orti</td>
+<td>Ortyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Camel</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kamk</td>
+<td>Kamikka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>She camel</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bakerak, A.</td>
+<td>Bakerakka, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cow</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tyg</td>
+<td>Tyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ox</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gourky</td>
+<td>Gorondyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Calf</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gortot</td>
+<td>Gortoga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Buffalo</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Djamous, A.</td>
+<td>Djamous, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Horse</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Koky</td>
+<td>Mortyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ass</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Hanoub</td>
+<td>Kadja</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Saddle</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dogerk</td>
+<td>Dogerka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sheep</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Eget</td>
+<td>Egedryga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lamb</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Doyerk</td>
+<td>Egenandyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Goat</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bertigy</td>
+<td>Fakka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dog</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Welk</td>
+<td>Mokka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cat</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sabky</td>
+<td>Kadeeska</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Gazelle</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gālk</td>
+<td>Kedjatta</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Male</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ondo</td>
+<td>Onda</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Female</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Karou</td>
+<td>Karēa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hare</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Wozla</td>
+<td>Doynga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hyena</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Eddik</td>
+<td>Aadyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Serpent</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Aayagy</td>
+<td>Ouslangyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Scorpion</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ikinki</td>
+<td>Segetka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bird</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kowertag</td>
+<td>Kowertyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Feathers</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ryshky, A.</td>
+<td>Ryshga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Fowl</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Derbatti</td>
+<td>Derbatta</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cock</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Derbanondigy</td>
+<td>Derbanonda</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">[154]</span>Goose</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Allotti</td>
+<td>Kellayga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Raven</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kok</td>
+<td>Koka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Partridge</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>—</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Pigeon</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Mynek</td>
+<td>Hamamga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Eagle</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Aboukodro</td>
+<td>Abakodro</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sparrow</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sasurky, A.</td>
+<td>Sar Soura, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Fish</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Karāg</td>
+<td>Angissiga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Crocodile</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Elong</td>
+<td>Olonga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nile horse (hippopotamus)</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Errid, ird</td>
+<td>Eritta, irta</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Frog</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Golgodegyr</td>
+<td>Amankorkyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Flies</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kultigi</td>
+<td>Kuttiga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mosquitos</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Namouski, A.</td>
+<td>Namousga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lice</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Issig</td>
+<td>Issiga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Worm</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Wigitty</td>
+<td>Wirkyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Date tree</td>
+<td class="brace" rowspan="2">⎱<br>
+⎰</td>
+<td rowspan="2">Bentyg</td>
+<td rowspan="2">Fentyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dates</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Acacia tree</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Saleyg</td>
+<td>Gandeyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Tamarisk tree</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Shereg</td>
+<td>Moorka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Doum date</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Amboug</td>
+<td>Ambiga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wheat</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Illeyk</td>
+<td>Illega</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dhourra</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Mareyg</td>
+<td>Mareyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dhourra stalks when dry</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ageyk</td>
+<td>Ageyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Barley</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sering</td>
+<td>Seringa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The bitter horse-bean called in Egypt Turmus</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Angallag</td>
+<td>Agindeyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Straw</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Siltiga</td>
+<td>Seetyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The French bean or Louby</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ogotty</td>
+<td>Tigeteyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Common horse-bean</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Foulki, A.</td>
+<td>Foulga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Chick pea</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Homosky, A.</td>
+<td>Homoska, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lentils</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nerk</td>
+<td>Adeska, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The Egyptian Gortum</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Koushag</td>
+<td>Kousheyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>A species of Dhourra called in Arabic dokhen</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Erdeyg</td>
+<td>Foulouga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cotton</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gottong, A.</td>
+<td>Koshmaka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Silk</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Haryrki, A.</td>
+<td>Haryrka, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Tobacco</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dokhang, A.</td>
+<td>Toulyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Grapes</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Anebky, A.</td>
+<td>Anebga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Water melon</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Batyhky, A.</td>
+<td>Batyhga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Coloquintida</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Oorky</td>
+<td>Tatourga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Senna plant</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Abyreyga</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lettuce</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Khasky, A.</td>
+<td>Khaska, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wine</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nebyg, A.</td>
+<td>Nebyd, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Oil</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Zeity, A.</td>
+<td>Zeyta, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Date spirits</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Aragyk, A.</td>
+<td>Aragyk, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Salt</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ombotti</td>
+<td>Emetta</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Pepper</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Falfelki, A.</td>
+<td>Felfelga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Coffee</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kahwagi, A.</td>
+<td>Gahwa, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Snuff</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Neshouki,</td>
+<td>Neshouka, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cheese</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Djebenki, A.</td>
+<td>Djebenka, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Butter</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Desk</td>
+<td>Noyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Honey</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Asselki, A.</td>
+<td>Asselga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Milk</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Iddje</td>
+<td>Souga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bread</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kalk</td>
+<td>Kabaka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Meat</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kosoug</td>
+<td>Arykka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Eggs</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gasgantyk</td>
+<td>Komboug</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wool</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Aboky</td>
+<td>Faka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Horns</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Neshyg</td>
+<td>Nishyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dung</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Osel</td>
+<td>Osyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ship</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Koubki</td>
+<td>Sigirka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sail</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sariki, A.</td>
+<td>Kelaga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Oars</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Wauadyk</td>
+<td>Soubeyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>A man</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ogedj</td>
+<td>Itga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>A woman</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ing</td>
+<td>Ideynga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Son or boy</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tot</td>
+<td>Tota</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Girl or daughter</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Beroug</td>
+<td>Borouga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Husband</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Edy</td>
+<td>Etta</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wife</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Eyngy</td>
+<td>Adeynga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Father</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ambabki</td>
+<td>Abouga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mother</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Eneygy</td>
+<td>Aneynga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sister</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Anesyk</td>
+<td>Anessyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Brother</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ambeski</td>
+<td>Anyngaga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Uncle</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ambanak</td>
+<td>Abanyngaga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cousin</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ambanentoti</td>
+<td>Abanyngagantato</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Grandfather</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Anouky</td>
+<td>Annonga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">[155]</span>Master</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tirtyg</td>
+<td>Noranga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Servant</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Khadamky, A.</td>
+<td>Ashanga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Male slave</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nogoutty</td>
+<td>Osheyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Female slave</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nogogy</td>
+<td>Oshaga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Virgin</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Fetagy</td>
+<td>Borou Beker, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Life</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Enougou</td>
+<td>Agni</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Death</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Diark</td>
+<td>Dyakka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Disease</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Oddy</td>
+<td>Oddy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Small-pox</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Djedryki, A.</td>
+<td>Djedryka, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Plague</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kobbaki, A.</td>
+<td>Kobbaga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Old age</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Samelgy</td>
+<td>Gortyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The head</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ork</td>
+<td>Ourka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Eye</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Messik</td>
+<td>Maynga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nose</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Soring</td>
+<td>Soringa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mouth</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Agilk</td>
+<td>Akka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lips</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Shendouk</td>
+<td>Shendouga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Teeth</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nelky</td>
+<td>Nyta</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mustachios</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sharibyk, A.</td>
+<td>Sharibka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ears</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Oluk</td>
+<td>Okiga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Throat</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Goski</td>
+<td>Gooska</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Beard</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Samēk</td>
+<td>Sameyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Neck</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Eyik</td>
+<td>Eega</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Arm</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Yg</td>
+<td>Eddiga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Back</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Djerk</td>
+<td>Dijrka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Posteriors</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Boungy</td>
+<td>Osyrka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Fingers</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sebag, A.</td>
+<td>Sebakiga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Stomach</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Toug</td>
+<td>Touga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Breasts</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ertyg</td>
+<td>Dougoussiga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Pudenda viri</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sorat</td>
+<td>Koffyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Pudenda mulieris</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Osutti</td>
+<td>Kissiga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Foot</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ossi</td>
+<td>Öyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hair</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Seerki</td>
+<td>Shygertyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Blood</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gerki</td>
+<td>Beeska</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Heart</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Aagy</td>
+<td>Ayka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Skin or leather</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Adjeng</td>
+<td>Nowakka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bone</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Keet</td>
+<td>Kesyrga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>House</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kagy</td>
+<td>Noka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Door or gate</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Babki, A.</td>
+<td>Babka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Key</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Meftahky, A.</td>
+<td>Kusherka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wall</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Katreg</td>
+<td>Sobeyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Chamber</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kerryg</td>
+<td>Kerryga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bed</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Fershki, A.</td>
+<td>Bereshka, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mat</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Hasyrk, A.</td>
+<td>Hasyrka, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Large water jar</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Barrat</td>
+<td>Gottiga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Water pot</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ibryk, A.</td>
+<td>Ibrikka, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Large earthen vessel</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gosseyg</td>
+<td>Shounaga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hand mill</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Djouk</td>
+<td>Djaouga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Earthen plate</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kissibk</td>
+<td>Faleka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Thin iron plate, upon which bread is baked</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dābky</td>
+<td>Dabga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Boiler</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Deltig, A.</td>
+<td>Dystega, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Oven</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Taboungy</td>
+<td>Tabounga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lamp</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Seraky, A.</td>
+<td>Seraka, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ox</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nowt</td>
+<td>Allatta</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Water wheel</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Koleyg</td>
+<td>Askaleyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cords</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Irygy</td>
+<td>Allega</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sword</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Siouty</td>
+<td>Fareynga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td rowspan="2">Lance</td>
+<td class="brace" rowspan="2">⎰<br>
+⎱</td>
+<td>Shag</td>
+<td rowspan="2">Shartega</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Selotyeg</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Knife</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kandyg</td>
+<td>Kandyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Target</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Karoug</td>
+<td>Gunyega</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Gun</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bunduky, A.</td>
+<td>Baroudki, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Large stick covered with iron at both extremities</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Naboutdjy, A.</td>
+<td>Nabouta, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>A small stick</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Wudjerg</td>
+<td>Galeyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>A cloak or shirt</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kadeyg</td>
+<td>Kittiga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Egyptian Mellaye</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Foutek, A.</td>
+<td>Foutaga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Trowsers</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sherwalky, A.</td>
+<td>Lebaska, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Turban</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kasirk</td>
+<td>Kaserga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Red cap</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tarboshki, A.</td>
+<td>Tarboshka, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Linnen bonnet</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tarkya, A.</td>
+<td>Takyaga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ring</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Khatim, A.</td>
+<td>Khatimja, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ear-ring</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Zummamki, A.</td>
+<td>Zummamka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nose-ring</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Zorouski</td>
+<td>Korsyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bracelet</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Zouarki, A.</td>
+<td>Zouarga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">[156]</span>Amulet</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sōrki</td>
+<td>Shoka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Shoes</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Koresk</td>
+<td>Dirka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Girdle</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Amadjerdyk</td>
+<td>Mergirka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Needle</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Entillagy</td>
+<td>Entellea</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Rosary</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Soubhaki, A.</td>
+<td>Soubhaga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Book</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sourky</td>
+<td>Shouka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Paper</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gartaski, A.</td>
+<td>Waraka, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Pen</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kalamki, A.</td>
+<td>Kalamga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Gold</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dongougy</td>
+<td>Shongyrka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Silver</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Foddaki, A.</td>
+<td>Foddaga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Iron</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Shartyg</td>
+<td>Feressyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Copper</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nehasgy, A.</td>
+<td>Nehasga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Money</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dongougy</td>
+<td>Shonger</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Steel</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Zenadki, A.</td>
+<td>Zenadka, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Tinder</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Soufanki, A.</td>
+<td>Taamga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Water skin</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gyrbaggy, A.</td>
+<td>Gyrbeya, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wooden spoon</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Malgagy, A.</td>
+<td>Malgaga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Camel’s saddle</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Hawiegy, A.</td>
+<td>Hawiega, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Loom</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nesadjaky</td>
+<td>Nesydja</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Leather provision sack</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bousouky</td>
+<td>Doukyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wax</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Shemagy, A.</td>
+<td>Shemaga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>One</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Warum</td>
+<td>Werka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Two</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Owum</td>
+<td>Oūogha</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Three</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tosk</td>
+<td>Toskoga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Four</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kemsou</td>
+<td>Kemsoga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Five</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Didjou</td>
+<td>Didja</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Six</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gordjou</td>
+<td>Gordjoga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Seven</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kolodou</td>
+<td>Kolodga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Eight</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Idou</td>
+<td>Idouoga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nine</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Iskodou</td>
+<td>Oskoda</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ten</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dimnou</td>
+<td>Dimaga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Eleven</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dimindewaru</td>
+<td>Dimewera</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Twelve</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dimindiowum</td>
+<td>Dimeroua</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Thirteen</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dimindtoskou</td>
+<td>Dimetosko</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Twenty</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ariema</td>
+<td>Aro</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Thirty</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Thelathyna, A.</td>
+<td>Thelatyno, A</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Forty</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Erbayne, A.</td>
+<td>Erbayno, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Fifty</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kamsyno, A.</td>
+<td>Kamsyno, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>One hundred</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Imilwaro</td>
+<td>Imilwera</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Two hundred</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Imlowum</td>
+<td>Imloūo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Three hundred</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Imiltosk</td>
+<td>Imiltosko</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>One thousand</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dololwaro</td>
+<td>Dorewera</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Two thousand</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dololowum</td>
+<td>Doreoūa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>One half</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bagatto</td>
+<td>Fagatwera</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>One third</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Toskere</td>
+<td>Tuskitwera</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>One fourth</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kemsere</td>
+<td>Kemmiswēra</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The whole</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kamelou, A.</td>
+<td>Malālgy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Friend</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sahabky, A.</td>
+<td>Sahabga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Enemy</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Adouom, A.</td>
+<td>Adouga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Marriage</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Erkeneyg</td>
+<td>Balyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bridegroom</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Erkenegolg</td>
+<td>Nokodoga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Spouse</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Idem</td>
+<td>Idem</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Companion</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Awryk</td>
+<td>Thafyga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Thief</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Magasky</td>
+<td>Amargatta</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>War</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Katalki, A.</td>
+<td>Dyngyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Peace</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gendoss</td>
+<td>Gyngysha</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Victory</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nasrtakoss, A.</td>
+<td>Nasraga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Tomb</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Teyk</td>
+<td>Torbaga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Law</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Shera, A.</td>
+<td>Hagyga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Fear or cowardice</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Serkou</td>
+<td>Djakyr</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bravery</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Okdjom</td>
+<td>Ogdja</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Love</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dolly</td>
+<td>Dolli</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hate</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tissery</td>
+<td>Mony</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Generous</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dokhom</td>
+<td>Dokh</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Avaricious</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Neȳino</td>
+<td>Bakhyla, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Rich</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sereym</td>
+<td>Shey-ykoua</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Poor</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Meskyn, A.</td>
+<td>Fogra, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Just</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Adeleybou, A.</td>
+<td>Massoda</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Unjust</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Thalebou, A.</td>
+<td>Thalem, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wise man</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Erykatto</td>
+<td>Onyketta</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Fool</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dooshun</td>
+<td>Doosha</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Peasant</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nobky</td>
+<td>Noppa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Merchant</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kawadjaki, A.</td>
+<td>Saffery, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Governor</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Hakemki, A.</td>
+<td>Hakemga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Divorce</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Talygabou, A.</td>
+<td>Talek, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Handsome</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tongilou</td>
+<td>Massa or Ashrya</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ugly</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sawalou</td>
+<td>Ouza</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Old</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Shaybki, A.</td>
+<td>Shaybga, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>An old man</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Samelk</td>
+<td>Daoura</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">[157]</span>An old
+woman</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dorougy</td>
+<td>Douga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Young</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Afygi</td>
+<td>Kodou</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Old (ancient)</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Korselk</td>
+<td>Farka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>New</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Eyrk</td>
+<td>Meryka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Strong</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Shedydon, A.</td>
+<td>Shedyd, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Weak</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Oddy or Teliebou</td>
+<td>Odda</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Big</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dorom</td>
+<td>Kulma</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Thin</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Essey</td>
+<td>Oloa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wide</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bodjo</td>
+<td>Bodjoa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Narrow</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Takarou</td>
+<td>Takara</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Far</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Wareem</td>
+<td>Weera</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Near</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Aft</td>
+<td>Mola</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Many</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Degreem</td>
+<td>Deea</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Few</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gabylou, A.</td>
+<td>Galyla, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Good</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sereyma</td>
+<td>Massa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bad</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Milli</td>
+<td>Birsa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hungry</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Oryboo</td>
+<td>Fannyr</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Thirsty</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Esigoryboo</td>
+<td>Amanga djokyr</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Satiated</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Boērbou</td>
+<td>Kosafyr</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Long</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nassom</td>
+<td>Nassyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Short</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ortunam</td>
+<td>Oradaka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>High</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Aaly, A.</td>
+<td>Aalya, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Low</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Waty, A.</td>
+<td>Waty, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Clean</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nadifou, A.</td>
+<td>Nadifa, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dirty</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Erimmam</td>
+<td>Sawa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Without</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bedjer</td>
+<td>Shado</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Within</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Arer</td>
+<td>Awo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Above</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dogoro</td>
+<td>Doro</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Below</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Togorum</td>
+<td>Taoūa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Green</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dessem</td>
+<td>Dessyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Red</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Geylem</td>
+<td>Geyla</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Black</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Romma</td>
+<td>Oroma</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>White Yellow</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Arom Korgosou</td>
+<td>Nolloa Korgosa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Blue</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Romma</td>
+<td>Oroma</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To kill</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Beyry</td>
+<td>Fayr̈o</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To bring forth</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Oskousou</td>
+<td>Annoso</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To speak</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Baȳn</td>
+<td>Baÿn</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To be silent</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kittoss</td>
+<td>Hesso</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To sow</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ywer</td>
+<td>Nankerja</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To reap</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Djorou</td>
+<td>Gor</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To wash</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Eywos</td>
+<td>Djello</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To cook</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kudjer</td>
+<td>Netto</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To swim</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bowetta</td>
+<td>Kodja</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To walk</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tale</td>
+<td>Djo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To run</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bot</td>
+<td>Myro</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To ride</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Egyr</td>
+<td>Doko</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To beat</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Djom</td>
+<td>Oshyng</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To sound</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Shogoss</td>
+<td>Shagoso</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To throw</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Lefoss</td>
+<td>Weyrky</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To open</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kuso</td>
+<td>Gosso</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To shut</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Koboss</td>
+<td>Keffo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To tie</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Dygross</td>
+<td>Dekeyro</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To unloosen</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kuss</td>
+<td>Gosso</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To break</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tokoss</td>
+<td>Korydjo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To eat</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kalou</td>
+<td>Kap</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To drink</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ny</td>
+<td>Ny</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To sleep</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Torboss</td>
+<td>Ner</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To dream</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Oontyg</td>
+<td>Nasryga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To rise</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Omboloss</td>
+<td>Ketto</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To pray</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Saletta, A.</td>
+<td>Salaka, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To fetch</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Wadir</td>
+<td>Tebbay</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To sit down</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tawoss</td>
+<td>Tyko</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To laugh</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Oussou</td>
+<td>Djagdja</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To cry</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Oyng</td>
+<td>Ogny</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To sing</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>O</td>
+<td>Kar</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To lye</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Morso</td>
+<td>Merdjaga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To swear</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bedjodry</td>
+<td>Djoro</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To cohabit</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Bedanjery</td>
+<td>Ydandannefy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To descend</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kutoss</td>
+<td>Sukko</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To ascend</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Darross</td>
+<td>Keyro</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To travel</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Safeross</td>
+<td>Saferoso</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To buy</td>
+<td class="brace" rowspan="2">⎱<br>
+⎰</td>
+<td rowspan="2">Djan</td>
+<td rowspan="2">Djan</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To sell</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To hear</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gydjer</td>
+<td>Oker</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To smell</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Sunne</td>
+<td>Sonna</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To see</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>An̄ale</td>
+<td>Nell</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To taste</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gaynale</td>
+<td>Tefaddagay</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To burn</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Djugoss</td>
+<td>Djogedjy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To exclaim</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Djahde</td>
+<td>Djaleka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">[158]</span>I love you</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ayek dolli</td>
+<td>Ayeka doller</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Thou lovest me</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>—</td>
+<td>Areka dolli</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>He loves me</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>—</td>
+<td>Idem</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>We love each other</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>—</td>
+<td>Werweronga dollero</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>I loved you</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>—</td>
+<td>Ayeka dolligossy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>I shall love you</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>—</td>
+<td>Ayeka dollil</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>I</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Aygy</td>
+<td>Ay</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Thou</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ek</td>
+<td>Ery</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>He</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tek</td>
+<td>Tary</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>We</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Argogy</td>
+<td>A-ny</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>You</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ergy</td>
+<td>Oury</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>They</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tirky</td>
+<td>Tery</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mine</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Andou</td>
+<td>Annyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Thine</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Endeky or Endou</td>
+<td>Ennega</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>His</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Teneky or Tendou</td>
+<td>Tennega</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ours</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tindoma</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Yours</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>—</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Theirs</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tirgundo</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>My son</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>An toti</td>
+<td>Au gaga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Thy son</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>En toti</td>
+<td>En gaga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>His son</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ten toti</td>
+<td>Tan gaga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Where do you come from?</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Say tonta</td>
+<td>Seddo tony keyra</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Where are you going?</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Say boudjoun</td>
+<td>Seddo djo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Will you come with me?</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Erygodom bodjouna</td>
+<td>Eydan djoana</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Have you got some milk?</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Enna idjy dana</td>
+<td>Elougo soo dana</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>No, I have no cattle</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Anna orty dāmnou</td>
+<td>Damou, Orty gomo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Who gave you the bread?</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Nyeh kalk gaterum</td>
+<td>Nay kattyro kabaka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>I do not like his son</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Entoti dolmini</td>
+<td>Tangaga doloumo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>What’s your name?</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>En nera</td>
+<td>Ekka nayna</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>I understand</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gydjressy</td>
+<td>Oukeross</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>I do not understand</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gydjorkom</td>
+<td>Oukerkomo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Do not give him</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tirmem</td>
+<td>Tytta</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Give him two piastres</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Gersh owe tirou</td>
+<td>Gersh owo tedj</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>What does it cost?</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Mogot yre</td>
+<td>Temen syk ylyro</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>I bought it for ten measures</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Mashe diming djanessy</td>
+<td>Mashe dimlou djanesy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>They cheated you</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ek ghalboss</td>
+<td>Dosy kergo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>It is only worth eight</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Mash idou koby</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Is your father at home?</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Ambab kak ero</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">[159]</span>Yes he is at
+home</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Neros, kak ero</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>How are you?</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Taveb re</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Tree</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Djaoug</td>
+<td>Djollaga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Trees</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Djowokyg</td>
+<td>Djolkiga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Camel</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kamk</td>
+<td>Kamikka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Camels</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Kamryg</td>
+<td>Kamryga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dog</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Welk</td>
+<td>Mokka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dogs</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Welyg</td>
+<td>Mokryga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Boy</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Toti</td>
+<td>Tota</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Boys</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Tonyg</td>
+<td>Tonyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="hang1">The comparative is formed by putting to the
+positive the word More</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>Andogor</td>
+<td>Eylleky</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h3 class="pb"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">[160]</span><span class="xlarge letter-spaced">VOCABULARY</span><br>
+<span class="small">OF THE</span><br>
+<span class="large letter-spaced word-spaced4">DIALECT OF THE ARABS
+BISHARYE.</span>
+</h3>
+
+<hr class="decordb width8 spaced2">
+
+<table class="tdl-mid less" id="t160">
+<tbody><tr>
+<td class="width10">Heaven</td>
+<td>Otryk</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Day</td>
+<td>Toÿ</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Night</td>
+<td>Afa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sun</td>
+<td>Toyn</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Moon</td>
+<td>Ondjim</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wind</td>
+<td>Beram</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Rain</td>
+<td>Ōbra</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Winter</td>
+<td>Odarak</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hot</td>
+<td>Tola</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cold</td>
+<td>Omokera</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Morning</td>
+<td>Tokroum</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>North</td>
+<td>Obha</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>South</td>
+<td>Oma</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>West</td>
+<td>Oghar</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>East</td>
+<td>Osherk, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sea or river</td>
+<td>Obhar</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Water</td>
+<td>Ayam</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Stone</td>
+<td>Awey</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mountain</td>
+<td>Orbay</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Trees</td>
+<td>Hindy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Fire</td>
+<td>Toneyt</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Spring or source</td>
+<td>Tory</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Camel</td>
+<td>Okam</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>She-camel</td>
+<td>Terabie</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cow</td>
+<td>Osha</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Horse</td>
+<td>Hatay</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ass</td>
+<td>Omeyg</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sheep</td>
+<td>Tonay</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lamb</td>
+<td>Ouna</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dog</td>
+<td>Oyas</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Gazelle</td>
+<td>Ogana</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hare</td>
+<td>Tembylhoy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hyena</td>
+<td>Keray</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bird</td>
+<td>Kilay</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ostrich</td>
+<td>Odlym, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Date-tree or dates</td>
+<td>Tomlok</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Senna shrub</td>
+<td>Temerara</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Large trees in the mountain called</td>
+<td>Odada</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>and</td>
+<td>Sellam</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Salt</td>
+<td>Omous</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Butter</td>
+<td>Ola</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Milk</td>
+<td>Tea</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bread or Dhourra</td>
+<td>Otam</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Meat</td>
+<td>Tosha</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wool</td>
+<td>Ehamo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Skin or leather</td>
+<td>Osar</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dung</td>
+<td>Tahdo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Blood</td>
+<td>Oboy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bone</td>
+<td>Timita</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>A man</td>
+<td>Otak</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>A woman</td>
+<td>Tataket</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>A boy</td>
+<td>Or</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Girl</td>
+<td>Toro</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Head</td>
+<td>Ogourma</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Eyes</td>
+<td>Tilyly</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nose</td>
+<td>Togenouf</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mouth</td>
+<td>Oyaf</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Teeth</td>
+<td>Tougrek</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lips</td>
+<td>Tamboroy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ears</td>
+<td>Tongy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Beard</td>
+<td>Hamoy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Arm or hand</td>
+<td>Oya</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Foot</td>
+<td>Ragad</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Fingers</td>
+<td>Titibala</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Stomach</td>
+<td>Ofy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Pudend. viri</td>
+<td>Omyd</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>— fœminae</td>
+<td>Wat</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Testiculi</td>
+<td>Olla</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Father</td>
+<td>Babo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mother</td>
+<td>Tonde</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Brother</td>
+<td>Assanok</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sister</td>
+<td>Tukato</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cousin</td>
+<td>Durao</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Male slave</td>
+<td>Kosha</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Female slave</td>
+<td>Tokasha</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Death</td>
+<td>I-ya</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Disease</td>
+<td>Lehabou</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Tent</td>
+<td>Egowa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mat</td>
+<td>Hassyr, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Handmill</td>
+<td>Merhaka, A</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Earthen boiler</td>
+<td>Borma, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cords</td>
+<td>Oloul</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sword</td>
+<td>Umadded</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lance</td>
+<td>Tosna</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Knife</td>
+<td>Wodrar</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Linen gown</td>
+<td>Oskak</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Shoes</td>
+<td>Omadda</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Shield</td>
+<td>Ogbe</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Gold</td>
+<td>Demourary</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Water-skin</td>
+<td>Osar</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>One</td>
+<td>Engaro</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">[161]</span>Two</td>
+<td>Molobo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Three</td>
+<td>Mehay</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Four</td>
+<td>Fadyg</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Five</td>
+<td>Ey-yb</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Six</td>
+<td>Essagour</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Seven</td>
+<td>Essarama</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Eight</td>
+<td>Essamhay</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nine</td>
+<td>Ogamhay</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ten</td>
+<td>Togaserama</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Twenty</td>
+<td>Tagougo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Thirty</td>
+<td>Tagomolob</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Friend</td>
+<td>Ouraok</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Enemy</td>
+<td>Ogry</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wife</td>
+<td>Tegato</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Thief</td>
+<td>Gohara</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Tomb</td>
+<td>Ohaffyr, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Fear</td>
+<td>Morkay</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bravery</td>
+<td>Enjemabo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Good</td>
+<td>Onor</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Handsome</td>
+<td>Nowadenybo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ugly</td>
+<td>Shingyrato</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Old</td>
+<td>Wadha</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Young</td>
+<td>Fabalo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Strong</td>
+<td>Akrabo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Weak</td>
+<td>Teliebou</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Avaricious</td>
+<td>Afram</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hungry</td>
+<td>Hargabo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Thirsty</td>
+<td>Eweybo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Satiated</td>
+<td>Gababo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Long</td>
+<td>Serarabo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Short</td>
+<td>Nakashabo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Far</td>
+<td>Sagybou</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Near</td>
+<td>Dalou</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Many</td>
+<td>Godab</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Few</td>
+<td>Shlyko</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Red</td>
+<td>Adarob</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>White</td>
+<td>Aray</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Black or blue</td>
+<td>Haddal</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To kill</td>
+<td>Dera</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To speak</td>
+<td>Hadydo, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To be silent</td>
+<td>Semaka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To walk</td>
+<td>Saka</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To run</td>
+<td>Daba</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To ride</td>
+<td>Ama</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To beat</td>
+<td>Ta</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To throw</td>
+<td>Tefsa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To eat</td>
+<td>Tama</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To drink</td>
+<td>Goa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To sleep</td>
+<td>Doa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To rise</td>
+<td>Bāra</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To sit down</td>
+<td>Saa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To laugh</td>
+<td>Saÿda</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To cry</td>
+<td>Wawa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To buy and sell</td>
+<td>Djelabat, A</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To lye</td>
+<td>Gosreybo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To hear</td>
+<td>Temsyra</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To see</td>
+<td>Shebabo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To cohabit</td>
+<td>Osour</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>To bury</td>
+<td>Besatayn</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Good morning</td>
+<td>Shobau</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Good evening</td>
+<td>Ketyman</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>How are you?</td>
+<td>Daban</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Have you got some milk</td>
+<td>Tyahiho</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>There is</td>
+<td>Aha</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>No</td>
+<td>Kahero</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Camel</td>
+<td>Okam</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Camels</td>
+<td>Akam</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dog</td>
+<td>Oyas</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dogs</td>
+<td>Ayas</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Girl</td>
+<td>Tor</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Girls</td>
+<td>Tar</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody></table>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="page">
+<div class="figcenterplate">
+<figure class="iwmap1" id="map3">
+<p><span class="sc">Burckhardt’s Travels.</span>
+</p>
+<p class="vsmall right"><em>To face page 163</em></p>
+<table class="tdc width-full">
+<tbody><tr>
+<td class="small tdc-bot"><em><span class="sc">Position</span> of
+the <span class="sc">Countries</span></em><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+of<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<span class="sc">North Eastern Africa</span><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+from the information of<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<span class="sc">Browne, Horneman</span><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<em>and</em><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<span class="sc"><em>Burckhardt.</em></span></td>
+<td class="map-title">Map<br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<em>of the</em><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<span class="sc">Course of the Nile</span><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<em>and</em><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<em>ADJACENT COUNTRIES,</em><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<em>for Burckhardt’s Travels in</em><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<span class="sc">Nubia.</span><br class="x-ebookmaker-drop">
+<em>By W. M. Leake.</em></td>
+</tr>
+</tbody></table>
+<img alt="" src="images/map3.jpg" id="img_images_map3.jpg">
+<table class="width-full">
+<tbody><tr>
+<td class="tdl vsmall"><em>Published as the Act directs,
+1<sup>st</sup> Dec<sup>r</sup>, 1819, by John Murray Albemarle
+Street London.</em>
+</td>
+<td class="tdr vsmall"><em>J. Walker Sculpt.</em>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody></table>
+
+<p><a href="images/map3_large.jpg" id="id-1442749347031745088"><span class="med">(<em>Large-size</em>)</span></a>
+</p>
+</figure>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">[163]</span><a id="c3"></a>DESCRIPTION OF A JOURNEY<br>
+<span class="small">FROM</span><br>
+<span class="word-spaced4">UPPER EGYPT THROUGH THE DESERTS OF
+NUBIA</span><br>
+<span class="small">TO</span><br>
+BERBER AND SUAKIN, AND FROM THENCE TO DJIDDA<br>
+IN ARABIA.</h2>
+
+<p class="center med spaced2">PERFORMED IN THE YEAR 1814.</p>
+
+<hr class="decordb width8 spaced2">
+
+<p class="drop-cap space-above3">A<span class="sc">fter</span> my
+return from a journey along the banks of the Nile towards Dóngola,
+in the spring of the year 1813, I remained in Upper Egypt, waiting
+for an opportunity to start with a caravan of slave traders,
+towards the interior parts of Nubia in a more easterly direction. A
+numerous caravan had set out from the neighbourhood of Assouan,
+only a few days before my return there from Mahass; and it was the
+last which performed that journey in the year 1813.</p>
+
+<p>About this time, a robber named Naÿm, Shikh of the Arabs
+Rebatat, who inhabit the country of Mograt, (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نعيم شيخ عرب الرباطات المقمين في بلاد مقرات</span>) on
+the banks of the Nile, three days N. W. from Goz, had begun to
+infest the caravan route; several parties of traders had already
+been plundered by him, and the above-mentioned caravan shared the
+same fate on its return to Egypt in October 1813. Naÿm was killed
+in December by a numerous<span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">[164]</span> armed caravan from Sennaar; and the roads
+then became safe. The traders, however, still delayed their
+departure. They were apprized that the southern countries on the
+borders of the Nile, were severely suffering from famine; the crops
+of Dhourra had failed from a scanty inundation, and such was said
+to be the effect of famine, that the poor Negroes had killed each
+other, for a few measures of Dhourra. The merchants foresaw that
+the expense to be incurred in feeding their slaves would eat up all
+their profits, and therefore determined to wait till the next
+harvest.</p>
+
+<p>During this time I had established my principal quarters at
+Esne, which is three days journey from Daraou, the place from
+whence the caravan takes its departure. Not wishing to be much
+known, I kept as little company as possible, dressed myself in the
+poorest dress of an inhabitant of Egypt, and spent as little money
+as I possibly could, the daily expense, of myself, servant,
+dromedary, and ass, being about one shilling and sixpence; my horse
+cost me sixteen-pence per month. Yet, with all this I could not
+help creating some suspicion of my being a rich man, or of my
+having had the good luck to find a treasure. I was fearful of
+engaging in any traffic because it would have obliged me to mix
+with the merchants, and my person would then have become generally
+known. But in Egypt, there is no such condition as that of a man
+who lives upon his income without employment. Every body is either
+a cultivator or a merchant, or in some public service; and to be
+able to live without begging, and without belonging to any of those
+classes appears very strange, and exposes the individual to the
+suspicion of having chests full of dollars.</p>
+
+<p>I had been several times at Daraou to look after the caravan,
+and to become acquainted with the leading people. About the middle
+of February my correspondent at that place sent a messenger to
+Esne, to acquaint me that every thing was ready for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">[165]</span> departure. I went there, but
+the traders still delayed; and it was not until a fortnight
+afterwards that the signal of departure from Daraou was given.</p>
+
+<p>Daraou is a considerable village, about ten hours north of
+Assouan, on the east bank of the Nile. Its inhabitants are partly
+Fellahs of Egypt, and partly Arabs Ababde, many of whom have become
+settlers in the villages south of Goft, as far as Assouan; but who
+still keep a part of their families in the mountains; living there
+like Bedouins, during the season, when their agricultural pursuits
+do not require their attendance on the banks of the Nile, and
+during the remainder of the year inhabiting villages like the
+peasants of Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>The two principal chiefs have their settlements, one at Kolétt
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قُليِط</span>), about four hours
+north of Daraou, on the east bank of the river, and the other at
+the latter place.</p>
+
+<p>From time immemorial the Ababde have been the guides of the
+caravans through the Nubian desert; many of them are great
+speculators in the slave trade, and their chiefs exact a tribute
+upon every slave, and upon every loaded camel passing through the
+desert, which does not belong to one of their own tribes.</p>
+
+<p>The other part of the inhabitants of Daraou, are Fellahs,
+intermarried with Ababde women, who for the greater part, likewise
+engage in the same trade. These I have found, from sad experience,
+to be a worthless set of vagabonds; notwithstanding the profits
+arising from that traffic, they are all poor; spending their gains
+in drunkenness and debauchery.</p>
+
+<p>I had equipped myself at Esne for my journey: but soon found on
+my arrival at Daraou the necessity of making some alteration in my
+plans. I had brought with me a camel and an ass; the former I had
+intended to load with baggage, provisions, and water: the latter to
+mount myself, according to the custom of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">[166]</span> the Nubian traders; who generally perform
+their travels towards the Negro countries on these animals, which
+they sell there and return on their camels. I had no servant. The
+Fellah who had faithfully served me during my whole stay in Upper
+Egypt I had sent, on my departure from Esne, with a packet of
+letters to Cairo; for I was determined to try my luck in this
+country alone, unaccompanied by any servant. Experience had taught
+me that in difficult and dangerous travels, those who have no other
+motive in performing them, but that of gaining their monthly pay,
+are averse to incur any perils, and stagger at the smallest
+difficulties; thus they become more troublesome than serviceable to
+their master: whom moreover their imprudence or treachery may
+expose to danger. I was in full health, and therefore not afraid of
+undertaking the additional fatigue, which otherwise would have been
+borne by my servant. Arrived at Daraou, I had an opportunity of
+seeing the preparations of my fellow travellers, and of observing
+that mine were not regulated by that strict economy which served as
+a rule to the others. My baggage and provisions weighed about two
+hundred weight. The camel however was capable of carrying six
+hundred weight. The water for my use on the road was to be
+contained in two small skins slung across the saddle of the ass. My
+camel therefore could carry four hundred weight more, the freight
+of which at five dollars per hundred weight, was worth twenty
+dollars. Had I slighted such a sum, I might have exposed myself to
+the animadversions of my companions, who would probably have
+thought me possessed of great wealth. I soon had an offer of a
+freight of four hundred weight, to convey across the desert as far
+as Goz, at the above price: but I considered that the loading and
+unloading of the camel would occasion me a great deal of trouble: I
+therefore thought it best to sell him, and soon found a purchaser
+at twenty-five<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">[167]</span>
+dollars in ready money, camels being at that time very scarce in
+Upper Egypt; it was part of the bargain, that the purchaser should
+carry my baggage across the Desert.</p>
+
+<p>I appeared at Daraou in the garb of a poor trader, the only
+character in which I believe I could possibly have succeeded. It
+may not be superfluous that I should inform the reader in detail of
+the contents of my baggage, and of my provisions: at least, it had
+always been, with me, a great desideratum in reading books of
+travels, to collect such information for my own use.</p>
+
+<p>I was dressed in a brown loose woollen cloak, such as is worn by
+the peasants of Upper Egypt, called Thabout, with a coarse white
+linen shirt and trowsers, a Lebde, or white woollen cap, tied round
+with a common handkerchief, as a turban, and with sandals on my
+feet. I carried in the pocket of my Thabout, a small journal-book,
+a pencil, pocket-compass, pen-knife, tobacco purse, and a steel for
+striking a light. The provisions I took with me were as follows:
+forty pounds of flour, twenty of biscuit, fifteen of dates, ten of
+lentils, six of butter, five of salt, three of rice, two of coffee
+beans, four of tobacco, one of pepper, some onions, and eighty
+pounds of Dhourra for my ass. Besides these I had a copper boiler,
+a copper plate, a coffee roaster, an earthen mortar to pound the
+coffee beans, two coffee cups, a knife and spoon, a wooden bowl for
+drinking and for filling the water-skins, an axe, ten yards of
+rope, needles and thread, a large packing needle (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مسلهّ</span>), one spare shirt, a comb, a coarse
+carpet, a woollen cloth (Heram) of Mogrebin manufactory for a night
+covering, a small parcel of medicines, and three spare water
+skins.</p>
+
+<p>I had also a small pocket Coran, bought at Damascus, which I
+lost afterwards on the day of the pilgrimage, 10th of November
+1814, among the crowds of Mount Arafat,—a spare journal book and an
+inkstand, together with some loose sheets of paper, for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">[168]</span> writing amulets for the
+Negroes. My watch had been broken in Upper Egypt, where I had no
+means of getting another. The hours of march noted down in the
+journal, are therefore merely by computation, and by observing the
+course of the sun.</p>
+
+<p>The little merchandize I took with me consisted of twenty pounds
+of sugar, fifteen of soap, two of nutmegs, twelve razors, twelve
+steels, two red caps, and several dozen of wooden beads, which are
+an excellent substitute for coin in the southern countries. I had a
+gun, with three dozen of cartridges and some small shot, a pistol,
+and a large stick, called nabbout, strengthened with iron at either
+end, and serving either as a weapon, or to pound the coffee beans,
+and which, according to the custom of the country, was my constant
+companion. My purse, worn in a girdle under the Thabout, contained
+fifty Spanish dollars, including the twenty-five, the price of my
+camel, and I had besides sewed a couple of sequins in a small
+leathern amulet, tied round my elbow, thinking this to be the
+safest place for secreting them. Had my departure from Egypt not
+been too long delayed, I should have carried a larger sum of money
+with me: although I much doubt, after the experience I have since
+had, whether I should have been the better for it. I had originally
+destined two hundred dollars for this purpose, which I had carried
+with me from Siout to Esne, in September 1813, expecting to be able
+to start immediately with the caravan: I was afterwards obliged to
+encroach upon that sum, to defray my daily expenses, to purchase my
+camel, &amp;c. &amp;c.; and a fresh supply of money which I had
+written for, had not arrived when the caravan started.</p>
+
+<p>Having already waited so long, I was unwilling to give up so
+eligible an opportunity, merely on account of the low state of my
+funds: and the information I had collected on the state of the
+Negro countries, made me think it probable that if I did not
+make<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">[169]</span> a prolonged
+stay there, I might succeed in my journey, even with the trifling
+sum then at my command. Besides I was ready to supply the want of
+money by an increase of bodily privations and exertions, to elude
+which is the principal motive for spending money in travels of this
+sort.</p>
+
+<p>All my baggage and provisions were packed up in five leather
+bags, or djerab, much in use among the slave traders; those
+articles of which I stood in daily need, I put up in a small saddle
+bag on my ass.</p>
+
+<p>The most substantial merchants of our caravan were fitted out in
+the same style as to provisions for the journey: the only dainties
+which some of them carried, were dried flesh, honey, and cheese;
+the latter, although certainly agreeable in travelling, is not a
+proper article of food in the desert: where the traveller should
+abstain from whatever excites thirst. Several of our people had
+among their camels she-camels in full milk, which gave them a daily
+supply of this agreeable beverage.</p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of March, all the traders had assembled at Daraou,
+and early in the morning of the 2d the different goods, for loading
+the camels, were carried to a public place, in front of the village
+called Barzet el Gellabe (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">برزت
+الجلابه</span>).</p>
+
+<p>At noon, the camels were watered,<a id="FNanchor_91"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_91">[1]</a> and knelt down by the side of their
+respective loads. Just before the lading commenced, the Ababde
+women appeared with earthen vessels in their hands, filled with
+burning coals. They set them before the several loads, and threw
+salt upon them. At the rising of the bluish flame, produced by the
+burning of the salt, they exclaimed, “may you be blessed in going
+and in coming.” The devil and every evil genius are thus, they say,
+removed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">[170]</span>We were
+accompanied for about half an hour beyond the village by all the
+women and children. My principal friend at Daraou, Hadji Hosseyn el
+Aloüan (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الحاج حسين العلوان</span>),
+at whose house I had lived, and who had obtained from me a variety
+of presents, in making me believe that he intended to undertake the
+journey in person, in which case he might have proved to me a most
+useful companion on the road, had declared the day before, that he
+should remain at Daraou; but his brother and his son Aly joined the
+caravan, and their party formed the largest and most wealthy party
+of the Fellah traders among us. The old man followed us with his
+women to a distance from the village, and at parting, recommended
+me to his relations; “he is your brother,” he said to his son, “and
+there,” opening his son’s waistcoat, and putting his hand upon his
+bosom, “there let him be placed:” a way of recommendation much in
+use in the Arabian desert likewise, where it has some meaning, but
+among these miserable Egyptians it has become a mere form of
+speech. We then proceeded upon a sandy plain, in great disorder, as
+it always happens upon the first setting out of a journey. Many
+loads were badly laid on, several were thrown off by the camels who
+had for some time been unused to them, and we were obliged to
+encamp for the night in a small valley, with shrubs in it, about
+two hours and a half to the S. S. E. of Daraou, where we feasted
+upon the dainties which had been prepared by the ladies of Daraou;
+large fires were lighted, and the whole night was passed in singing
+and noise.</p>
+
+<p><em>3d March.</em> We departed early from our resting place, and
+entered Wady Om Rokbe (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي اُم
+رُكبه</span>), a broad valley with good pasture, which we followed
+for upwards of two hours; we then ascended a steep hill, and after
+several ascents and descents, encamped in a valley near the source
+of water called Abou Kebeyr (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابو
+كبير</span>), having proceeded to day about six hours, very slow
+march<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">[171]</span> There are a
+few trees in this valley; and water is found every where by digging
+pits in the sand. The source of Abou Kebeyr which yields a very
+scanty supply, had attracted some Ababde Bedouins from whom we
+bought some sheep. The mountains we had traversed to day, were all
+composed of flint.</p>
+
+<p><em>4th. March.</em> Our route this morning lay through sandy
+valleys until we arrived, after about four hours march, at a steep
+ascent, or Akaba, where the sand and flint hills terminate. After
+crossing over the Akaba which is composed of granite schistus, we
+arrived, at the end of six hours, at a fine natural reservoir of
+rain water, among the granite rocks called Abou Adjadj
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابو عجاج</span>); our route was in
+a S. S. W. direction. From hence to Assouan the distance is six
+hours. Just beyond the bason of rain water, begins a narrow pass
+among the rocks, where loaded camels proceed with difficulty. In
+here turning round a corner of the mountain we found our advanced
+men, loudly quarreling with a strong party of armed Bedouins, and
+before I could inform myself of the particulars, the Ababde
+belonging to our caravan had armed themselves, and proceeded to
+attack the enemy. The latter were likewise Ababde, but of a
+different tribe. Having been informed of our departure from Daraou,
+they had left their homes at Khattar (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خطّار</span>), a village near Assouan, to way-lay us in this
+narrow pass, and to levy a contribution upon us as passage money.
+They were about thirty, and our Ababdes as many. The individuals of
+both parties were naked, for it is a rule among them never to fight
+with any incumbrance upon their bodies, and merely to wrap a rag or
+napkin round their waists.<a id="FNanchor_92"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_92">[2]</a>
+They were armed with long two-edged swords, and short lances and
+targets, which latter were particularly useful to them in warding
+off the shower of stones with which the attack commenced. When I
+saw them thus attack each other, and then under<span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">[172]</span> the most horrible clamour come
+to close action with swords believing that we were attacked by
+robbers, I was about to join our people, and had already levelled
+my musquet at the principal man of the assailants, when one of our
+Ababdes cried out to me, for God’s sake not to fire, as he hoped
+there should be no blood between them. By the advice of our guides,
+the Egyptian merchants, who were armed with swords, (for nobody had
+a gun but myself, and few had pistols) willingly took charge of the
+defence of our baggage in the rear, for the Ababde were anxious to
+fight out the quarrel amongst themselves. After about twenty
+minutes’ rather shy fighting, the battle ceased by the interference
+of the chiefs on both sides, and both parties claimed the victory.
+The whole damage amounted to three men slightly wounded and one
+shield cleft in two. Our people however gained their point, for we
+passed without paying any tribute, and I was somewhat gratified in
+seeing how far our Arabs might be depended upon in any future
+attack in the course of the journey. As for the Egyptians they had
+given evident proofs of the most cowardly disposition,
+notwithstanding their boasting language. Several Shikhs of the
+Ababde have a right to claim a tribute from the caravan. Others set
+up unfounded pretensions of the same kind, and it is the duty of
+the guides (Khobara plur. of Khabir, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">خَبير</span>) to protect the caravan from such extortions. No
+caravan can cross the desert in safety without being accompanied by
+some of the Ababde, and although many of the Fellah merchants
+perfectly know the road, they never venture to perform it
+alone.</p>
+
+<p>Our assailants retreated after a long parley, which succeeded
+the fight; and although we had at first intended to remain at Abou
+Adjadj for the night, our guides now thought it adviseable to push
+further on, because they were afraid that the opposite party might
+send during the night for a reinforcement of men from
+their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">[173]</span> village. We
+therefore rode three hours farther over a rocky ground until we
+arrived in a wide valley called Wady Houd (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي هود</span>), where we halted. During the whole of
+this afternoon’s march we had observed among the barren granite
+rocks, great quantities of locusts.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 5th.</em> Wady Houd is a broad valley full of shrubs
+and pasturage, bordered on both sides by rocks of fine granite,
+similar to those of Assouan and the Cataract. We pursued our road
+for two hours along the valley; and at the end of three hours march
+came to sandrocks intersected by layers of quartz. We then ascended
+a slightly sloping plain, and at the end of four hours entered a
+wide sandy valley, in which we continued in a direction, S. W. by
+S. for several hours, until we reached, after about seven hours
+march, a narrow Wady called Om el Hebal (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اُم الحبال</span>), or the mother of ropes; so called from its
+numerous windings. Here we halted after a day’s march of about
+seven hours and a half. The Wady is full of thorny trees of the
+acacia species, the dark-green leaves of which are in singular
+unison with the surrounding granite rocks, the surface of which is
+smooth and shining, and of the deepest black. The valley is in few
+places more than sixty yards across; the highest summits of the
+rocks, which are every where steep cliffs, may be about two or
+three hundred feet above the level ground. This evening we lighted
+our fires with the dried dung of the camels that had rested here
+before; indeed we seldom halted in the evening without finding fuel
+of this kind, for the traders rarely go out of the accustomed
+track, nor can they choose their resting places at random, being
+fixed to those spots where there is some pasturage of herbs and
+shrubs, or at least some acacia trees, upon the leaves and branches
+of which their camels may feed for a few hours in the evening. I
+found much less order at the encamping of this caravan, than I had
+observed among other caravans<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">[174]</span> in the Eastern Desert. Our party consisted
+of thirty nine loaded camels, thirty five asses, and about eighty
+men, and it was divided into a dozen different families or messes,
+each of which on the halting ground formed a separate
+<em>bivouac</em>. We had two men from Assouan, the others were from
+Daraou, Klit, and Esne, and a few from Gous, and Farshiout. People
+from Siout seldom travel this road. Although the chief of the
+Ababde was the acknowledged head of the caravan, yet the Fellah
+merchants generally followed their own humour in moving and
+halting;<a id="FNanchor_93"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_93">[3]</a> and there was every evening
+some quarrelling about the place of halting. None of the traders
+had any tent; we all slept in the open air, but none ever shut his
+eyes without placing his baggage in such a manner as to render it
+difficult for thieves to attempt it without awaking him. We were
+not afraid of robbers from without, but it was too well known that
+many of our own people were of a pilfering disposition, and
+notwithstanding every precaution, they repeatedly indulged
+themselves in it in the course of the journey.</p>
+
+<p><em>6th March.</em> We continued in Wady el Hebal for about
+three hours, when we stopped near an inlet in the western chain of
+hills, where we found among the rocks a large natural reservoir of
+rain water, delightfully clear, sweet, and cool. The place is
+called Damhit (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دمحيت</span>), and is
+much praised by the Arabs, because the water is very seldom dried
+up. It is situated in a cleft of the mountain, which has the
+appearance of having been rent asunder by a violent earthquake.
+Large blocks of granite are heaped up at the entrance; these masses
+increase in quantity, in ascending through the cliff, and rise to a
+considerable height, among them are two<span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">[175]</span> other reservoirs of water of equal size
+with the lower, but of difficult access. The Wady itself is not
+without its natural beauties. It is about forty yards across,
+overgrown with acacia or (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سنط</span>) <em>Sant</em> trees, and bordered on both sides by
+steep shattered granite cliffs, of grotesque shapes. During heavy
+rains, which often happen here, the water descending from the
+western chain collects in a large torrent, which, as I was
+informed, empties itself into the Nile, near the village of Dehmyt,
+eight hours south of Assouan. About four hours distant from Damhit,
+in a S. W. direction, is a spring of good water called El Moeleh
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الموِيلَح</span>); it is resorted
+to by the caravans, which set out from Assouan. We remained here
+the whole day, for it is a general rule among caravans in the east,
+to make slow marches during the three or four first days of a long
+journey, in order to accustom the cattle, which are generally
+allowed several months of rest before the journey, to fatigue by
+degrees; and this is particularly the case when the ground affords
+good pasturage. Loss of time is seldom taken into consideration by
+eastern merchants, and least of all by Arabs, and thus I have heard
+it related at Damascus that the caravans from thence to Bagdad are,
+in the spring, sometimes three months in crossing the desert. We
+again met great numbers of locusts. These rapacious insects had
+spread sometimes in such quantities over the mountain as to eat up
+every green vegetable: the cattle of the Bedouins are some times
+reduced by these animals to the greatest distress.</p>
+
+<p><em>7th March.</em> After two hours we issued from the Wady and
+met several Bisharein Arabs. These Bedouins, whom I have already
+mentioned in my journey towards Dóngola, remain in winter time in
+the mountains near the Red Sea, where the rains produce plenty of
+pasture; but there being very few wells and springs in that
+quarter, they are obliged to approach in summer nearer to the Nile,
+where wells are more numerous. We were now upon an<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">[176]</span> open sandy plain, without any
+vegetation, bordered on the east by high mountains, and towards the
+west, at a shorter distance, by lower hills. The whole valley of Om
+el Hebal is of granite, but here in the plain I again found
+sandstone with quartz. We were about five hours in crossing this
+plain, which bears the name of Birket Zokhan (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بركت زُخان</span>), and then after seven hours slow march
+(in the direction S. 1° ½ E.) we stopped at the entrance of a chain
+of low mountains, where we found very luxuriant pasture. The herb
+called Towyle (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">طويله</span>) grows
+here in abundance, and is an excellent food for the camels. From my
+first setting out from Daraou, I had been involved in continual
+disputes with the man, to whom I had sold my camel, and who carried
+my baggage. He had undertaken to take more baggage than the camel
+was able to bear, and in order to lighten it, he was constantly
+endeavouring to transfer my baggage, for the carriage of which I
+paid him, to my ass. This evening the camel broke down, when he
+accused me of having cheated him, in selling him an unsound animal,
+insisting at the same time upon having his money returned, a demand
+which was however soon over-ruled. According to justice, and to the
+customs even of the traders themselves, he would have been obliged
+to pay the further freight of my baggage out of his own pocket; but
+he was so loud in his oaths and lamentations, exclaiming that he
+was a ruined man, and besmearing his face with dirt and dust, in
+sign of excessive grief, that he brought the chiefs of the caravan
+all over to his side, and I was obliged to contract a second time
+for the freight of my goods and provisions, with one of the
+Bedouins Ababde. As we had already been six days on our journey,
+our provisions were considerably diminished, and the camel’s load
+became every day lighter. Upon this the traders always reckon,
+never taking any spare camels from Egypt with them, as other desert
+caravans usually do, and if camels break<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">[177]</span> down, their loads are distributed among the
+others, and the carriage is paid for according to a fair
+calculation. No man can ever refuse to charge his camel with part
+of such load, if necessity demands it, and his own camel is strong
+enough. We again set out after sunset, and marched about three
+hours farther, through several vallies, until we came to the low
+mountains called Om Hereyzel (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اُم
+حُريذَل</span>), where we stopped.</p>
+
+<p><em>8th March.</em> The mountain of Om Hereyzel is of a dark
+gray granite. We passed it, and then crossed a deep sandy plain
+entirely barren, direction S. 1° ½ E. The road was strewn with
+carcases and bones of camels. Few caravans perform the journey
+without loosing some of their beasts, and this happens more
+frequently in rocky districts, of difficult passage, or in the
+neighbourhood of wells, where the already weakened camels surfeit
+themselves with water, which has the effect of rendering them
+incapable of resisting fatigue, and the weight of their loads. We
+passed many low insulated granite hillocks, and granite blocks in
+the midst of the sands. We halted about mid-day at the entrance of
+a chain of mountains, running S. E. and N. W., called Djebel
+Heyzorba (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جبل هِزُربه</span>). It is
+a custom with caravans always to rest during the mid-day hours,
+when they dine, and sleep afterwards for a couple of hours. At the
+return from the black countries, when camels are always plentiful,
+and every body is mounted, the caravan travels in forced marches;
+but two-thirds of our people were at present on foot. Towards two
+o’clock we usually set out again, and alighted just before sunset.
+In the afternoon of this day we passed Heyzorba, and continuing in
+the same direction as before, halted near some rocks called Beiban
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بيبان</span>); a day’s march of
+about nine hours. I had seen neither trees nor verdure during the
+whole day. The rocks where we rested, were of granite mixed with
+large masses of feldspath.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">[178]</span><em>9th
+March.</em> Being in want of water, we set out soon after midnight,
+and reached, after five hours march, the Wady Nakeyb (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نقيب</span>), with wells of the same name. The
+Wady is full of Sant trees, and has near its extremity two deep
+wells of tolerable water.</p>
+
+<p>From the first day of our departure from Daraou, my companions
+had treated me with neglect, and even contempt; they certainly had
+no idea of my being a Frank, but they took me to be of Turkish
+origin, either from European Turkey or Asia Minor, an opinion
+sufficient of itself to excite the ill treatment of Arabs, who all
+bear the most inveterate hatred to the Osmanlis. I had with me a
+Firman of Ibrahim Pasha, son of Mohammed Aly Pasha, and governor of
+Upper Egypt, together with a letter of recommendation from him,
+addressed to all the black kings on the Sennaar route, and wherein
+I was called Hadji, or Shikh Ibrahim el Shamy, or the Syrian. For
+obvious reasons I had never let this be known amongst my
+companions, and all that I gave them to understand was, that I was
+by birth an Aleppine; they knew that I was much befriended by
+Hassan Beg, the Governor of Esne, under whose jurisdiction Daraou
+is included, as well as by the great commercial house El Habater of
+Esne, who had recommended me to his correspondent at Daraou. Seeing
+that I had brought a very small quantity of goods with me, they
+thought I had been forced to leave Egypt on account of debts, but I
+gave out that I was in search of a lost cousin, who several years
+ago had departed from Siout to Darfour, and Sennaar, upon a
+mercantile expedition, in which my whole property had been engaged.
+This was a pretext for my undertaking, quite suited to the notions
+of these people. The smallness of my adventure in goods would
+hardly have justified any man in his senses in attempting such a
+journey with mere commercial views, for after paying all the
+passage duties in the road, the most sanguine person could not hope
+for any<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">[179]</span> greater
+success, than that of returning with the full capital. I was
+obliged therefore to allege some reasons for undertaking the
+journey. I often repeated my hopes of finding my lost cousin, and
+at all events of conducting my expenses in such a manner as not to
+be a loser on my return. My companions were not disinclined to
+believe my story, and thought it not at all improbable, that I
+might also be avoiding my creditors; but I could easily perceive at
+the same time that they could not divest themselves of some
+commercial jealousy, thinking it not improbable that I might find
+the means of attempting a second expedition into these countries
+with a large capital, in case I should return from the present with
+a conviction of the profitable nature of the trade. It was probably
+for this reason that they thought it necessary to ill treat me, in
+order to prevent my making any further attempt. Several Turks from
+Asia Minor or from European Turkey had within the last ten years
+endeavoured to engage in the trade, but the Daraou people had
+always found means to disgust them so much, as to make them abandon
+any second enterprize. When in addition to other motives for ill
+treating me, the traders saw in me every appearance of a poor man,
+that I cut wood, and cooked for myself, and filled my own
+water-skins, they thought me hardly upon an equality with the
+servants who are hired by the merchants, at the rate of ten dollars
+for the journey from Daraou to Guz, or Shendy, and back again. I
+had always endeavoured to keep upon good terms with the family of
+Alowein, who were the principal Fellah merchants, and whose good
+offices I thought might be useful to me in the black countries; but
+when they saw that I was so poor that they could have but little
+hopes of obtaining much from me in presents, they soon forgot what
+I had already given them before we set out, and no longer observed
+the least civility in their behaviour towards me. They began by
+using opprobrious language in speaking of Hassan Beg,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">[180]</span> of Esne, observing that now we
+were in the desert, they cared little for all the Begs and Pashas
+in the world; seeing that this did not seriously affect me, they
+began to address me in the most vulgar and contemptuous language,
+never calling me any thing better than Weled, “boy.” Though they
+became every day more insulting, I restrained my anger, and never
+proceeded to that retaliation to which they evidently wished to
+provoke me, in order to have sufficient reasons for coming to blows
+with me. In the beginning of the journey I had joined the party of
+the Alowein in our evening encampment, although I always cooked by
+myself; I was soon, however, driven away from them, and obliged to
+remain alone, the people of Daraou giving out that several things
+had been purloined from their baggage, and that they suspected me
+of having taken them. Not to enter into any further details, it is
+sufficient to say, that not an hour passed without my receiving
+some insult, even from the meanest servants of these people, who
+very soon imitated and surpassed their masters. When we arrived at
+the well of Nakeyb, and the camels and asses went to be watered,
+and the water-skins were carried to be filled, some people of the
+caravan descended according to custom into the wells to fill the
+Delou or leather bucket, while others drew up the water. Having no
+friend to go down for me, I was obliged to wait near the well the
+whole afternoon, until near sunset, to the great amusement of my
+companions, and I should have remained unsupplied had not one of
+the guides at last assisted in drawing up the water from above,
+while I descended into the well to fill the Delou.</p>
+
+<p>We were joined at Nakeyb by a small party of traders, who being
+in great haste to depart, had left Daraou three days before us, but
+afterwards thinking it imprudent to venture alone through the
+desert, had been waiting here for us, for several days.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">[181]</span><em>10th
+March.</em> After a march of three hours, over a rocky and
+mountainous country, along a road thickly covered with loose
+stones, we arrived at El Haimar (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حيمَر</span>), a collection of wells of great repute in this
+desert. Just before we reached it we passed by the tomb of a
+distinguished person belonging to the Mamelouks, who died on this
+spot. His companions having inclosed the naked corpse within low
+walls of loose stones, had covered it over with a large block. The
+dryness of the air had preserved the corpse in the most perfect
+state. Looking at it through the interstices of the stones which
+enveloped it, it appeared to me a more perfect mummy than any I had
+seen in Egypt. The mouth was wide open, and our guide related that
+the man had died for want of water, although so near the wells.
+When the remnant of the Mamelouks under the command of Ibrahim Beg
+el Kebír, and Osman Beg Hassan, left the shores of the Nile, near
+Ibrim, in the year 1810, to escape from the eager pursuit of the
+Pasha’s troops, they retired to these mountains, and claimed the
+hospitality of the Ababde Bedouins, who received them in their
+encampments, but left no means untried of getting possession of all
+the property they had brought with them. Provisions were sold to
+them at enormous prices, and as one well or source could not afford
+water to so large a party for any length of time, the Mamelouks
+were obliged to trust to their Ababde guides to carry them from one
+watering place to another. During these wanderings the Ababde often
+carried their guests through circuitous routes in order to create a
+momentary distress for water, and sell their skins of water (which
+they secretly filled at some neighbouring spring), at the most
+exorbitant prices. It was a want of water, caused by these
+contrivances, that proved fatal to the above mentioned Mamelouk,
+and to others, who lie buried in the neighbourhood. Their whole
+corps remained several weeks at Haimar, and it was from thence that
+they ordered<span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">[182]</span> all
+their unnecessary servants and followers to depart: among these
+were several dashing Egyptian dancing girls, the price of whose
+charms had increased in the mountains, in the same proportion as
+other commodities, and who had thus been enabled to acquire large
+sums of money in a very short time. The dismissed followers of the
+Mamelouk camp formed a caravan, which was proceeding towards
+Assouan under the guidance of several Ababde, when, the night
+before they expected to reach the Nile, their guides absconded, and
+the next morning they found themselves attacked by a large body of
+Ababde, by whom they were robbed and stripped naked, and in this
+condition permitted to pursue their journey towards Egypt. The
+Ababde, as an excuse for their abominable treachery upon this and
+other occasions when many of the Mamelouk stragglers were robbed
+and killed by them, allege that the Mamelouks were the first to
+prove themselves unworthy of good faith and the rights of
+hospitality, by slaughtering the cattle of the Bedouins, and taking
+liberties with their women. Some such instances may have happened,
+but they were certainly not sufficient to exculpate the Ababde,
+whose treacherous character is too well known. The wells of Haimar
+are formed in a small sandy plain, in the midst of craggy hills. In
+one or two of them the water is drinkable, but in the greater part,
+it is of a bitterish and very disagreeable taste, though in great
+plenty. A nitrous crust is seen on the borders of the wells: the
+ground around them was still covered with the dung of camels and
+horses which had remained there since the time of the Mamelouk
+encampment. Old boots and shoes, with rags of tents and clothing
+covered the ground. The plain of Haimar is often frequented by
+large encampments of Bisharein Bedouins, who pasture here their
+cattle, but as the wells are within the dominion of the Ababde,
+they are obliged to pay a certain yearly tribute to the Ababde
+chiefs.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">[183]</span> This is
+often the cause of wars, but at present the Ababde have become more
+formidable than the Bisharein, and their intercourse with Egypt
+renders them much the wealthier of the two. It is only the northern
+Bisharein, who ever come in contact with the Ababde. We found only
+a few families of Bisharein encamped at Haimar, and passed through
+the plain without stopping, having filled our water skins with the
+comparatively sweet water of the Nakeyb. Beyond Haimar begins a
+wild, stony district, through which our camels had difficulty in
+passing. We ascended amidst granite and sand-stone rocks, for about
+one hour, and then descended again into the plain, about five hours
+and a half after our setting out in the morning. Our direction was
+S. 1° E. The mountains we passed are called Akabet Haimar
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عَقَبِة حيمَِر</span>) and are
+visible at a considerable distance. The plain beyond the Akabe is
+sandy, with many insulated granite rocks. I could see no where any
+regular strata, but the rocks were all in shattered, sharp-edged
+masses, bearing the marks of some violent commotion of the earth.
+In one hour we entered a fine valley called Wady Nehdyr, or Ghedeyr
+(the Arabic name in my journal is not quite clear (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">غَدير</span> or <span class="arabic" lang="ar">نَحدير</span>), with plenty of acacia trees. We had hoped to
+find some rain water here, in a large basin formed by nature, but
+it was dry, and the quantity of camel’s dung round it, proved that
+it had lately been exhausted by an Arab encampment. We therefore
+rode on, and alighted, after eight hours and a half, at the
+extremity of the Wady.</p>
+
+<p><em>11th March.</em> Our road lay over stony hills and rocky
+passages, for three hours, to the well called el Morra
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">المُرَّهَ</span>), meaning “the
+bitter,” a name which it justly bears when compared to the sweet
+waters of the Nile; but the eastern Arabs, who are more accustomed
+to bad water than Nubians and Egyptians, would hardly perceive its
+disagreeable taste. It is a very large well, upwards<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">[184]</span> of forty feet in depth, and I
+was told that it never dries up. Wady Morra extends for two or
+three hours, in an eastern direction. Having here taken in a small
+provision of water, we immediately continued our road, for five
+hours, to Wady Olaky (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي
+عُلاقي</span>) a fine valley extending from east to west, and
+having its extremities (as I was told) on one side near the Red
+Sea, and on the other near the Nile. In time of rain considerable
+torrents collect in the Wady, and empty themselves into the Nile.
+There is excellent pasturage and many trees in the valley, for
+which rare advantages it is held by the Bedouins in great
+veneration. Our guides in approaching the Wady saluted it with
+great solemnity, and thanked heaven for having permitted them to
+arrive so far in safety (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">السلاُم
+عليك يا وادي علاقي الحمد لَّله الذي جيناك بالسلامه</span>). In
+crossing the valley, which is about one hundred and fifty yards
+across, each person took a handful of Dhourra and threw it on the
+ground, a kind of pious offering to the good genius who is supposed
+to preside over the Wady. At the end of six hours we entered Wady
+Om-gat (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اُم قاط</span>). It has a
+reservoir of rain water, which renders it a resting place for
+caravans; but we found it dry. No valley we had hitherto passed was
+so thickly overgrown with acacia trees. Swarms of locusts were
+feeding upon the young sprigs and leaves. The ground was covered
+with the coloquintida, a plant very common in every part of this
+desert. The people of the caravan amused themselves with throwing
+these round gourds at each other, and warding them off with their
+targets, in which they shewed great dexterity. Unfortunately I had
+no target, and my Daraou <em>friends</em> so often aimed at my
+head, that I was at last obliged to apply seriously to the chief of
+the caravan for protection, a measure which saved me from a bloody
+nose, but procured for me the title of a “cowardly boy,” which
+lasted for several days, until it was exchanged for an appellation
+still more insulting. Our direction<span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">[185]</span> was this day S. by W. The ground of the
+Wady Omgat is all sandy; the hills lose their wild, grotesque
+shape, and are disposed in more regular chains. Most of the trees
+were entirely dried up, there having been no rain for nearly three
+years. I was surprised not to see the footsteps of any wild animals
+in the sand, and no birds, except a few crows. We met several
+Bisharein, accompanying camels loaded with Senna-mekke, which they
+were carrying to Derr for sale, or to barter for Dhourra. We
+continued the whole evening in the Wady, and halted after about
+nine hour’s march.</p>
+
+<p><em>12th March.</em> We set out before sunrise, and in three
+hours arrived at the extremity of Wady Omgat, the hills of which
+are throughout composed of granite. We entered here upon a wide
+sandy plain, and beyond it crossed, for two hours, a chain of
+mountains composed of grunstein. At six hours we descended into
+Wady el Towashy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي
+الطواشي</span>), or the Valley of the Eunuch. It is so called from
+an eunuch belonging to the great temple of Mekka, who was here
+killed and robbed of the presents which he had received from the
+kings of Darfour and Sennaar.<a id="FNanchor_94"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_94">[4]</a> I
+could not gain exact information, as to the year when this murder
+was committed; but one of our guides told me that his father
+remembered it perfectly well. I have no doubt, therefore, that this
+eunuch was the same called Mahomet Towash, by Bruce, and whose body
+was found by the traveller, exactly in this situation, three days
+after he had taken prisoner a Bisharye Bedouin, one of the
+murderers; a story which appears to be made up in all its details,
+although true in its principal facts. The people who killed the
+Towashy however were<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">[186]</span> not Bisharein, but the Towashy’s own
+guides, a party of Ababde of the tribe of Asheybab, called
+Hameydab, whose chief seat is at Beyheyra, a village not far from
+Edfou, on the eastern bank of the Nile (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حميداب من قبيلة عشيباب في بحيره</span>). They were much blamed
+for that action by their friends, and it is observed that ever
+since, the Hameydab have fallen into disrespect and weakness. The
+tomb of the Towashy is near the foot of the mountain, on the spot
+where he fell, and is looked upon as that of a saint or martyr. The
+tomb is of stone, and was erected by another tribe of Arabs. We
+found it covered with a few loose mats. All our people went up to
+it, and many of them prayed near it. In parting, they strewed some
+Dhourra and other offerings upon it, and filled with water a jar,
+which some other traveller had left there. Coloured rags had been
+tied upon poles near the tomb, according to a custom common among
+the Arabs. Several camel saddles lay about, which travellers had
+dedicated to the saint. We passed the hours of noon near the tomb,
+in the broad valley, to which it has given name. After mid-day we
+again started, and traversed an uneven ground of sand and stones.
+Our way for the whole day was S. 1° E. After about ten hours march,
+we halted in Wady Abou Borshe (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي
+ابو بُرشه</span>); a chain of mountains runs here in a N. W.
+direction. Some Sellam trees grow in the barren sands of this Wady:
+this tree is a species of acacia; the Arabs value the wood for its
+great hardness; they use it for the shafts of their lances, and cut
+the thin branches into sticks of about the thickness of the thumb,
+and three feet in length, the top of which they bend in the fire,
+while the wood is yet green, and rubbing it frequently with grease,
+it acquires greater weight and strength. Every man carries in his
+hand such a stick, which is called Sélame.<a id="FNanchor_95"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_95">[5]</a> There is another<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">[187]</span> tree of the same species, called by the
+Bisharein El Dodda, which is preferred to the Sellam, for making
+these sticks. It grows nearer to the Red Sea. In the Wady Abou
+Borshe we met with some gazelles, the first we had seen since
+leaving Daraou; where water is only found in deep wells, it cannot
+be supposed that game much abounds.</p>
+
+<p><em>13th March.</em> We set out before sun rise, and reached,
+after three hours, Wady el Berd (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي البرد</span>), a fine wide valley overgrown with trees.
+Large flocks of white birds, of the size of geese, passed over our
+heads, on their way northwards. The Arabs have given this valley
+the name of Berd (cold), because they find that even in summer, a
+cold breeze always reigns here; it is open to the Nile, from whence
+the winds at that time generally blow. We found it at the early
+hour of the morning in which we passed it so extremely cold, that
+during a short halt we set fire to several dead trees, of which
+there are many in the Wady. Having continued our way along it for
+about two hours, and then crossed a chain of hills, we halted again
+during the mid-day hours, in another valley. The halting at noon
+always gave rise to disputes. Whenever it was known before hand
+that the chiefs intended to stop in a certain valley, the young men
+of the caravan pushed eagerly forwards, in order to select at the
+halting place the largest tree, or some spot under an impending
+rock, where they secured shelter from the sun for themselves and
+their mess. Every day some dispute arose as to who arrived the
+first, under some particular tree: as for myself I was often driven
+from the coolest and most comfortable berth, into the burning sun,
+and generally passed the mid-day hours in great distress: for
+besides the exposure to heat, I had to cook my dinner, a service
+which I could never prevail upon any of my companions, even the
+poorest servants, to perform for me, though I offered to let them
+share in my homely fare. In the evening, the same labour occurred
+again, when fatigued by the day’s<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">[188]</span> journey, during which I always walked for
+four or five hours, in order to spare my ass, and when I was in the
+utmost need of repose. Hunger however always prevailed over
+fatigue, and I was obliged to fetch and cut wood to light a fire,
+to cook, to feed the ass, and finally to make coffee, a cup of
+which, presented to my Daraou companions, who were extremely eager
+to obtain it, was the only means I possessed of keeping them in
+tolerable good humour. A good night’s rest, however, always
+repaired my strength, and I was never in better health and spirits
+than during this journey, although its fatigues were certainly very
+great, and much beyond my expectation. The common dish of all the
+travellers at noon was Fetyre (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فطيره</span>), which is flour mixed up with water into a
+liquid paste, and then baked upon the sadj, or iron plate; butter
+is then poured over it, or honey, or sometimes a sauce is made of
+butter and dried Bamyé. In the evening some lentils are boiled, or
+some bread is baked with salt, either upon the sadj or in ashes,
+and a sauce of Bamyé, or onion poured over lentils, or upon the
+bread, after it has been crumbled into small pieces. Early in the
+morning every one eats a piece of dry biscuit with some raw onion
+or dates. In the afternoon we again crossed a mountainous country,
+and then a sandy plain, terminated by a valley, where some Doum
+trees afford a delightful prospect to the traveller. After a day’s
+march of about nine hours, we halted in that valley, near the wells
+called el Nabeh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">النَابِح</span>).
+While we were crossing the before mentioned plain, we met a small
+caravan of eight Ababdes; coming from Berber, and bound for Daraou.
+They had about thirty slaves and several loaded camels with them,
+which they intended to sell in Upper Egypt. The intelligence they
+gave us was extremely discouraging. Two wells which lay before us,
+on our road to Berber, they had found almost dried up. In one, that
+of Shigre, they said, we might still find some water, but in the
+farther one at “Nedjeym” we must reckon upon very little or
+no<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">[189]</span> supply. Some of
+our people, alarmed at this intelligence, thought of returning with
+the Ababde caravan, but they were dissuaded by the others. The
+Daraou people bought a strong camel from the other caravan, for the
+purpose of loading it with water, and we passed the whole night in
+consulting what was to be done. In Wady el Nabeh there are five or
+six wells, close together, three of which are brackish, and two
+drinkable, but the latter contain very little water, and this
+little was immediately consumed in filling the water-skins. On the
+next morning disputes arose about the water that had flowed out of
+the wells during the night, each party wishing to appropriate it
+for its own use.</p>
+
+<p><em>14th March.</em> The fine shade afforded by the numerous
+Doum trees, and the copious wells, render the Wady el Nabeh next to
+Haimar, and Shigre, the most important position upon this route.
+Small caravans generally stop here a few days, in going to Berber,
+in order to give their camels a little time to repair their
+strength. It is supposed, that the water of the Nabeh is peculiarly
+refreshing to them. It certainly has strong purgative qualities.
+Large caravans however find it impossible to remain here for more
+than one night, because the drinkable water is but scanty. Our
+chiefs were the whole morning consulting, what to do; we had a two
+days march to Shigre, and from thence five days to the Nile at
+Berber. It was impossible to load the animals with a quantity of
+water, sufficient for the whole journey, yet we had no water to
+expect south of Shigre, and very little at Shigre. There is another
+source called Nawarik (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نواريق</span>) in the mountains to the S. E., four days and a
+half journey from El Nabeh, and as many from Berber, which would
+have been an eligible route to take. But none of our party were
+acquainted with the road, excepting a Bisharye Arab, and the others
+were not willing to trust themselves to his guidance. A third route
+was pointed out to me from Nabeh, leading in a S. S. W.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">[190]</span> direction, to the Nile in
+three long days and a half, but that part of the Nile is inhabited
+by the Arabs of Mograt, who were enemies of our caravan, and whose
+chief, Naym, had lately been killed by a Shikh of the Ababde. Upon
+such occasions as these, every man gives his opinion, and mine was,
+that we should kill our thirty-five asses, which required a daily
+supply of, at least, fifteen water skins, that we should load the
+camels to the utmost of their strength with water, and strike out a
+straight way through the desert towards Berber, without touching at
+Shigre; in this manner we might perform the journey in five forced
+marches. But the Arabs can seldom be brought to take manly
+resolutions, upon such occasions, generally consoling themselves
+with the hope of Allah Kerim, or God’s bounty; so that the result
+of our deliberation was, that we should follow the usual track. We
+repaired our water skins and our sandals, refreshed ourselves with
+bathing in the cool wells, and then set out. It was not without
+great apprehension that I departed from this place. Our camels and
+asses carried water for three or four days only, and I saw no
+possibility of escaping from the dreadful effects of a want of
+water. In order to keep my ass in good spirits, I took off the two
+small water skins with which I had hitherto loaded him, and paid
+one of the Ababdes four dollars to carry four small water skins as
+far as Berber; for I thought that if the ass could carry me, I
+might bear thirst for two days at least, but that if he should
+break down, I should certainly not be able to walk one whole day
+without water in this hot season of the year. This evening, for
+about one hour, we passed along the valley, and then for two hours
+across a stony country (direction S. by E.), when we stopped for
+the night in a narrow valley. I was overcome by fatigue, my eyes
+had for several days been sore, and my reflections on our
+melancholy situation kept me long awake. A camel overloaded with
+water fell down this evening and broke its leg, by
+which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">[191]</span> accident
+several water skins were burst. The camel was killed in the legal
+way, by turning its head towards Mekka, and cutting its throat.
+Some of our people remained behind, and overtook us at night with
+some choice morsels of flesh, which they had cut from the
+carcass.</p>
+
+<p><em>15th March.</em> We set out before day break, were about one
+hour and a half in crossing over a rocky district, and then reached
+a wide sandy plain, called Gob el Kheyl (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قُب الخيل</span>), which has many insulated granite rocks,
+similar in shape to those described on the 6th. After four hours
+march we halted at the entrance of Wady Tarfawy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي طَرفاوي</span>), so called from the Tarfa
+or tamarisk tree, that grows there. The ground was covered also
+with the fine Senna shrub, the verdure of which was quite a novel
+sight. The pulse or fruit of the Senna had now come to its full
+maturity, and supplied food to swarms of locusts. Many thorny
+tamarisks, and a few Doum trees, also, grow here, and render the
+valley the most pleasant of the whole route.</p>
+
+<p>In general, I found the dreaded Nubian deserts, as far as Shigre
+at least, of much less dreary appearance than the great Syrian
+desert, and still less so than the desert of Suez and Tyh. We
+seldom passed a day without meeting with trees and water, as far at
+least as Shigre; they are much more frequent than on the caravan
+route from Aleppo to Bagdad, or from Damascus to Medina. The
+flatness of the Syrian desert may appear less horrid than the
+barren shaggy rocks of the Nubian desert; but the latter has at
+least the advantage of variety. As we arrived very early at our
+halting place in the Wady Tarfawy, the camels were sent to a side
+valley, at the distance of more than one hour and a half, to get
+some water from a pool, the slight brackish taste of which makes it
+probable that, besides the rain water collected in it, there is a
+spring at the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">[192]</span>
+bottom. They returned soon after mid-day. Another camel, which was
+pronounced unable to continue the journey, was killed to day, and
+many of the eagles, called Quakham, quickly assembled to have their
+share of the meat. Our Ababde guides had a quarrel to day with the
+men from Daraou, from whom they endeavoured to extort some
+additional payment. I was not sorry to see this dispute, hoping
+that it might lead to a greater cordiality between me and the
+Ababde, who might perhaps join their interests with mine against
+the common adversary. The caravan set out again about four P. M. At
+the moment of departure, the Arab who carried my water, brought me
+the largest of the four skins, and told me that his camel was
+unable to carry it any further. Before I had arranged two smaller
+skins, had filled them with the water of the large one, had tied
+ropes to them, and had loaded them upon my ass, the caravan had
+gained a great distance ahead, so that following their footsteps in
+the sand, I could not rejoin them till late after sunset. It is in
+such cases that the want of a servant or companion is chiefly felt;
+for slave traders show no sort of compassion for the embarrassments
+of their fellow creatures. We marched this evening about six hours,
+over stony ground, and encamped late at night in Wady Kowa,
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي كوع</span>), a valley full of
+pasturage. The direction during the day was S. by E.</p>
+
+<p><em>16th March.</em> After a few hours rest we again started.
+Our road lay over a sandy flat. High mountains appeared far in the
+east. At the end of three hours we halted in Wady Safyha
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي صَفيحه</span>), which cannot
+properly be called a valley, being a strip of lower land, running
+across the plain, where the rain water collects, and produces some
+trees and shrubs. Such spots in the Arabian deserts are called
+Ghadyr (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">غدير</span>). After mid-day
+we continued over the plain. During the whole day’s march we were
+surrounded on<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">[193]</span> all
+sides by lakes of mirage, called by the Arabs Serab. Its colour was
+of the purest azure, and so clear that the shadows of the mountains
+which bordered the horizon were reflected on it with the greatest
+precision, and the delusion of its being a sheet of water was thus
+rendered still more perfect. I had often seen the mirage in Syria
+and Egypt, but always found it of a whitish colour, rather
+resembling a morning mist, seldom lying steady on the plain, but in
+continual vibration; but here it was very different, and had the
+most perfect resemblance to water. The great dryness of the air and
+earth in this desert may be the cause of the difference. The
+appearance of water approached also much nearer, than in Syria and
+Egypt, being often not more than two hundred paces from us, whereas
+I had never seen it before at a distance of less than half a mile.
+There were at one time about a dozen of these false lakes round us,
+each separated from the other, and for the most part in the low
+grounds. After about eight hours march we stopped at Wady Om Doum
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي اُم دوم</span>). The name
+indicates the existence of Doum trees, but I could see no trees of
+any kind. I have observed that the vallies south of Omgat run
+generally from east to west, while those to the north of that place
+were parallel to our route. Our direction was still S. by E.</p>
+
+<p><em>17th March.</em> We set out at daylight and approached the
+high mountains of Shigre, which we had had in view the whole of the
+preceding day. After two hours march, we entered among these
+mountains, and then turning east, came to a fine Wady full of Doum
+trees, and bordered on either side by steep, and almost
+inaccessible cliffs. In following the windings of the valley, we
+arrived, after four hours march, near the water of Shigre,
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شِقر</span>) where we encamped. The
+surrounding mountains are all of granite, and consist of blocks of
+various sizes, heaped upon one another in the wildest disorder.
+Near the opening of the mountain,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">[194]</span> where the water is found, at some distance
+below the highest summit, I found the rock to be porphyry of a
+light reddish colour, close grained, with small veins of feldspath,
+much resembling the porphyry I saw last year, in Wady Lamoule,
+beyond the Second Cataract of the Nile. The approach to the spring
+is somewhat difficult, being at the extremity of a very narrow
+passage, in a cavern or cleft of the rock, where, besides the
+spring, there is also a collection of rain water. The water is
+excellent, and very cool, but unfortunately not very copious; at
+least, we found only a small supply. Some pigeons were flying about
+the spring. The well of Shigre is famous throughout this desert.
+The Bisharein frequently encamp in the neighbouring Wadys, and one
+of their principal Shikhs or Saints is buried near the well.
+Travellers often make pious offerings at the tomb, and if any
+Bedouins happen to be encamped in the neighbourhood, some sheep are
+purchased from them, and killed in honour of the Saint. One of our
+party found behind a rock, near the tomb, an empty chest, of
+Egyptian workmanship, quite new, which had probably been deposited
+there by some trader, whose camel could not carry it further, and
+who expected to take it up again on his return. The Ababde guides
+claimed it of the person who found it, alleging that they are the
+masters of the desert, and that all treasures found in it belong to
+them. We encamped at about half a mile from the well, and our first
+care was to fill our water skins. The Ababde kindly permitted the
+Fellah traders to fill their skins first, but the latter abused the
+permission, by watering likewise their camels; so that after they
+had retired from the well, very little water was left in it. The
+Ababde then declared that they should be obliged to stop here until
+the well should fill again. We remained therefore the whole night,
+the Ababde sleeping at the mouth of the cavern, to prevent any body
+from stealing water during the night.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">[195]</span>On the morning
+of the <em>18th March</em>, about twenty skins were filled, but the
+Ababde were not yet satisfied, and the merchants, rather than
+protract their stay, and see their store of water diminished by the
+hourly waste, preferred ceding some of their skins to the guides,
+upon the condition of departing immediately. After much patience
+and labour, I had succeeded in filling two large skins, and having
+still some water left, I should thus have been at least as well
+provided as any other individual in the caravan but I was not to be
+so fortunate. Having taken one of the skins upon my shoulder to the
+camp, I had left the other near the well, with the intention of
+coming back with the ass to take it away. When I returned, I found
+it empty. My Daraou friends had poured its contents into one of
+their own skins; and although they excused themselves by saying it
+was done by mistake, I could not by any means prevail upon them to
+refill it; indeed the water, now left in the well was rendered so
+muddy by the blueish clay which covers the bottom, that it was
+quite unserviceable. It was in vain that I offered two dollars for
+a full skin. My companions only laughed at me, saying that the
+price was indeed enormous, but that no one would part with his
+provision of water, and that they had never been in the habit of
+doing so. I was thus obliged to retreat from the well with the
+melancholy reflection that my stock of water was at the utmost
+sufficient for myself and ass for two days. It may here be remarked
+that it is of little use in travelling through deserts, to have a
+very large stock of water; for if the other travellers are in want
+of water they will take it by force; the rule being that water and
+bread are common to all, that is to say, that the stronger takes it
+from the weaker. The eastern Arabs allow the poor traveller to
+partake of their stock of water even when it is scarce, but the
+Africans are not so liberal, and all that an individual can do
+among them, is to lay in such a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">[196]</span> stock of water as will last as long as that
+of the great merchants; for he will find no supply from others,
+while he must give up all he can spare, and sometimes, even his
+whole stock, to meet the necessities of his more powerful
+companions. I searched about the well for some traces of ancient
+works, in the supposition that the place was as well known and
+frequented in the time when the trade of Meroe flourished as it is
+at present. But I could find nothing, although the situation is
+well suited to the construction of a fortress. The road leading up
+to the cavern which contains the well is almost blocked up by large
+masses of stones. And near it is another source, which has lately
+been entirely choaked up by the falling down of a projection of the
+mountain.</p>
+
+<p>The Ababde chief of the caravan being acquainted with my
+misfortunes, sent for me just as we were on the point of departure,
+and having made some severe reflections upon the cruelty of the
+Egyptians towards me, made me a present of a sufficient quantity of
+water to fill one of the smaller skins. I was of course very
+sincere in my protestations of thanks and of gratitude, although I
+well saw that his anxiety for my welfare was not so great as his
+wish to mortify the Egyptians. We left Shigre in the course of the
+morning; it took us four hours to cross the chain of mountains,
+which bear the name of Djebel Shigre (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جِبال شِقر</span>). They appeared to me the highest points of
+Western Nubia, but their most elevated summit is not more than
+eight hundred or one thousand feet above the plain. All these
+mountains are of granite, and are every where as wild in their
+shape as those about the well. After four hours march, we issued
+from the mountains, and by a slight descent reached a sandy plain,
+covered with sharp stones. Our road S. 1° W. At five hours, passed
+Wady Kabkaba (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي قَبقَبه</span>);
+at seven hours, passed Wady Zeynatyb (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي زَينَاتيب</span>). Trees are very scarce in these Wadys,
+which are nothing but low grounds with some<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">[197]</span> shrubs. We marched until late at night,
+and halted in the plain, after a day’s journey of about eleven
+hours. The country we passed over, after quitting the mountains of
+Shigre, is one great sandy flat, occasionally interrupted by
+gravelly ground, with small pebbles of quartz. We likewise passed
+several districts of moving sands. From Daraou as far as Shigre we
+had constantly followed a broad beaten path, where it is almost
+impossible for any one who has once performed the journey to go
+astray. The road seldom varies in its direction, and the prominent
+features of the mountains on both sides serve to the traveller as a
+guide at the few places where the sandy ground prevents any lasting
+impression of the footsteps of former caravans. From Shigre
+southward we found no beaten path, and there being no longer any
+mountains in view, it requires the eye and experience of a Bedouin
+to keep the caravan in a proper direction, especially during the
+day time.</p>
+
+<p><em>19th March.</em> Our road was S. by W. over an immense
+plain, bordered by low hills in the distant horizon. After about
+one hour we passed Wady Dimoka-yb (a Bishary name) (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي ديموكايب</span>), full of dry shrubs. The
+day was intensely hot. I thought I could perceive a considerable
+alteration in the climate, to the south of Shigre, it being much
+warmer than to the north of that place. Eight hours and a half
+passed Wady Abou Daey (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي ابو
+ضَيّ</span>). All these Wadys extend from east to west. Eleven
+hours arrived at the wells of Nedjeym (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابيار النجيم</span>); in approaching which, we passed, long
+after sunset, by several tomb-stones, called Gobour Adjouad el
+Arey-ab (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قبور اجوَد
+الاريَاب</span>); “the bravest men of Are-ab lie buried here,” said
+one of our chiefs; “their companions carry them from many days
+journies to this spot, that they may repose in the cool
+neighbourhood of the wells, and their deeds be remembered by those
+who pass here.” The Are-ab are a tribe of Bisharein. We had already
+sent some men to the wells early in the morning,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">[198]</span> to clear them of the sand, for
+notwithstanding the report of the caravan travellers which we
+received at Nabeh, our people still believed that some water might
+be procured here. But we found them sitting with melancholy
+countenances near the well, where they had been digging for several
+hours, without finding any thing but wet sand. Even the Bedouins
+now became alarmed, and nothing was left for us but to endeavour to
+reach the Nile by forced marches; each of us had some water left,
+though not more than sufficient for a single day. Nedjeym is a
+collection of three or four wells, where the water oozes from the
+ground, and collects in sand pits of twenty or thirty feet in
+depth. The winds often choak these pits with sand, and almost every
+caravan that passes must be at the trouble of digging them out. We
+only found one accessible, the others being filled with sand to the
+brim. In times of dryness, such as occurred this year, the wells
+are exhausted, but when the rains are not deficient they produce
+excellent water, in sufficient quantity to supply a caravan of
+middling size. The low insulated rocky hills which surround the
+Nedjeym are composed of chlorite and petrosilex.</p>
+
+<p><em>20th March.</em> Some of our people continued at work at the
+well the whole night, and at length by great assiduity filled the
+water skins. We left the place soon after midnight. Issuing from
+the hills which surround the wells, and diverging from the straight
+road that leads to Berber, we took our route over a barren plain
+covered with moving sands, in a S. S. W. direction. At four hours
+we passed Wady Holhob (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي
+حُلهُب</span>). All the Wadys south of Shigre empty themselves in
+large torrents into the Nile whenever rain falls in the eastern
+chain. The ground now became gravelly, covered with small black
+flints and petrosilex, a dark expanse of waste much resembling some
+parts of the desert of Tyh. No mountains or hills are any where
+seen. Here and there only small rocks<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">[199]</span> of granite, quartz or sienite interrupt the
+dreary uniformity of the plain. Fortunately for us we had northerly
+winds, but we suffered nevertheless considerably from the heat. We
+drank only twice to day, and our asses were put upon half
+allowance. At eleven hours we halted in a Wady. I had a quarrel to
+day with a man of Daraou, who accused me of having opened his water
+skin in the night, in order to give my ass some water; he called me
+by the most insulting names, pelted me with stones, and seemed to
+have succeeded in persuading the whole caravan that I was
+guilty.</p>
+
+<p><em>21st March.</em> We set out after midnight, and marched over
+a sandy ground. At three hours passed Wady Amour (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي عامور</span>). It was a chilly night, and
+the heat of the preceding day had rendered us still more sensible
+to the cold. Wady Amour is full of Sellam trees and acacias, many
+of which were quite dried up: our people, to warm themselves, set
+several of them on fire in passing along, and the flames spreading
+over the valley, beautifully illuminated the travellers and their
+frightened beasts. Issuing from the Wady we again met with a
+gravelly plain, and some low grounds. In seven hours passed a Wady
+of Sant trees. The heat was very great, and the wind southerly;
+half a dozen asses had already broken down, and their riders were
+obliged to walk over the burning plain. I had not drank the whole
+day, but still gave my ass every now and then a little water to
+keep up his spirits. At nine hours (direction S. S. W.), reached
+Wady Abou Sellam (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي ابو
+سِلَّم</span>) which abounds with Sellam trees. Here we stopped;
+for the beasts were much fatigued, and there were many stragglers
+behind, whom we might have lost in proceeding further. In order to
+spare my stock of water, I had lived since quitting Shigre entirely
+upon biscuits, and had never cooked any victuals; I now made
+another dinner of the same kind, after which I allayed my thirst by
+a copious draught of water, having in my skins as much as
+would<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">[200]</span> serve me for
+another draught on the morrow. We were all in the greatest
+dejection, foreseeing that all the asses must die the ensuing day
+if not properly watered, and none of the traders had more than a
+few draughts for himself. After a long deliberation they at last
+came to the only determination that could save us, and which the
+Ababde chief had been for several days recommending. Ten or twelve
+of the strongest camels being selected, were mounted by as many
+men, who hastened forward to fetch a supply of water from the
+nearest part of the Nile. We were only five or six hours distant
+from it, but its banks being here inhabited by Arabs inimical to
+the traders, the whole caravan could not venture to take that road.
+The camels set out at about four P. M., and would reach the river
+at night. They were ordered to choose an uninhabited spot for
+filling the skins, and forthwith to return. We passed the evening
+meanwhile in the greatest anxiety, for if the camels should not
+return, we had little hopes of escape either from thirst or from
+the sword of our enemies, who, if they had once got sight of the
+camels, would have followed their footsteps through the desert, and
+would certainly have discovered us. After sunset several stragglers
+arrived, but two still remained behind, of whom one joined us early
+next morning, but the other was not heard of any more. He was
+servant to a Daraou trader, who showed not the least concern about
+his fate. Many of my companions came in the course of the evening
+to beg some water of me, but I had well hidden my treasure, and
+answered them by showing my empty skins. We remained the greater
+part of the night in sullen and silent expectation of the result of
+our desperate mission. At length, about three o’clock in the
+morning, we heard the distant hollowings of our watermen, and soon
+after refreshed ourselves with copious draughts of the delicious
+water of the Nile. The caravan passed suddenly from demonstrations
+of the deepest distress,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">[201]</span> to those of unbounded joy and mirth. A
+plentiful supper was dressed, and the Arabs kept up their songs
+till day break without bestowing a thought on the fate of the
+unhappy man who had remained behind. It rarely happens that persons
+perish by thirst on this road, and if the Nedjeym has water, it is
+almost impossible that such an accident should happen. Last year,
+however, an instance occurred, the particulars of which were
+related to me by a man who had himself suffered all the pangs of
+death. In the month of August, a small caravan prepared to set out
+from Berber to Daraou. They consisted of five merchants, and about
+thirty slaves, with a proportionate number of camels. Afraid of the
+robber Naym, who at that time was in the habit of waylaying
+travellers about the well of Nedjeym, and who had constant
+intelligence of the departure of every caravan from Berber, they
+determined to take a more eastern road, by the well Owareyk. They
+had hired an Ababde guide, who conducted them in safety to that
+place, but who lost his way from thence northward, the route being
+very unfrequented. After five days march in the mountains, their
+stock of water was exhausted, nor did they know where they were.
+They resolved therefore to direct their course towards the setting
+sun, hoping thus to reach the Nile. After two days thirst, fifteen
+slaves and one of the merchants died. Another of them, an Ababde,
+who had ten camels with him, thinking that the camels might know
+better than their masters where water was to be found, desired his
+comrades to tie him fast upon the saddle of his strongest camel,
+that he might not fall down from weakness; and thus he parted from
+them, permitting his camels to take their own way: but neither the
+man nor his camels were ever heard of afterwards. On the eighth day
+after leaving Owareyk, the survivors came in sight of the mountains
+of Shigre, which they immediately recognized, but their strength
+was quite exhausted, and neither men nor<span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">[202]</span> beasts were able to move any further. Lying
+down under a rock, they sent two of their servants with the two
+strongest remaining camels, in search of water. Before these two
+men could reach the mountain, one of them dropped off his camel,
+deprived of speech, and able only to wave his hands to his comrade
+as a signal that he desired to be left to his fate. The survivor
+then continued his route, but such was the effect of thirst upon
+him, that his eyes grew dim and he lost the road, though he had
+often travelled over it before, and had been perfectly acquainted
+with it. Having wandered about for a long time, he alighted under
+the shade of a tree, and tied the camel to one of its branches; the
+beast however smelt the water, (as the Arabs express it,) and
+wearied as it was, broke its halter, and set off gallopping
+furiously in the direction of the spring, which as it afterwards
+appeared, was at half an hour’s distance. The man well
+understanding the camel’s action, endeavoured to follow its
+footsteps, but could only move a few yards; he fell exhausted on
+the ground, and was about to breathe his last, when Providence led
+that way from a neighbouring encampment a Bisharye Bedouin, who by
+throwing water upon the man’s face restored him to his senses. They
+then went hastily together to the water, filled the skins, and
+returning to the caravan, had the good fortune to find the
+sufferers still alive. The Bisharye received a slave for his
+trouble. My informer, a native of Yembo in Arabia, was the man
+whose camel discovered the spring, and he added the remarkable
+circumstance that the youngest slaves bore the thirst better than
+the rest, and that while the grown up boys all died, the children
+reached Egypt in safety.</p>
+
+<p>In 1813 a large caravan arrived at Siout from Darfour. As they
+had undertaken their journey in the latter end of the hot season,
+many of their camels perished on the road, and they found
+themselves under the necessity of leaving a considerable part
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">[203]</span> their goods,
+together with many young slaves who could not march on foot, at the
+well of Sheb, with all the provisions that could be spared. Having
+hired several hundred camels, they returned to Sheb; but in the
+meanwhile, the thoughtless slaves had been too prodigal of their
+provisions, and several had died from hunger.</p>
+
+<p>Such accidents as these may sometimes happen either from want of
+proper guides, from the necessity of taking circuitous roads, or
+from not having a sufficient quantity of camels loaded with water;
+but they must in general arise from a want of proper precaution,
+and I cannot help thinking that those which my predecessor Mr.
+Bruce describes himself to have suffered in this desert, have been
+much overstated. But while I think it my duty to make this remark,
+I must at the same time declare that acquainted as I am with the
+character of the Nubians, I cannot but sincerely admire the
+wonderful knowledge of men, firmness of character, and promptitude
+of mind which furnished Bruce with the means of making his way
+through these savage inhospitable nations as an European. To travel
+as a native has its inconveniences and difficulties, but I take
+those which Bruce encountered to be of a nature much more intricate
+and serious, and such as a mind at once courageous, patient, and
+fertile in expedients could alone have surmounted.</p>
+
+<p><em>March 22.</em> After partaking of a hearty breakfast, we
+proceeded, late in the morning, over an extensive gravelly plain,
+intersected by several Wadys or low grounds, running towards the
+river, and in general bearing few trees. Our road was S. by W. At
+the end of five hours we halted in one of the Wadys called Netyle
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي نَتيله</span>). The foliage of
+the acacia trees under which we encamped during the noon hours, is
+too scanty to give much shade, and the Arabs with justice compare
+the traveller’s endeavours to shelter himself from the burning sun
+under a Sant tree, to the folly of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">[204]</span> placing full confidence in the promises of
+the great; “Confide in his words as you do in the acacia’s shade;”
+has become a proverbial saying (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كلامه مثل ظِلّ السَّنط</span>). Ostriches are very numerous in
+this plain in several places, and we saw this morning many broken
+pieces of their eggs. I observed also some very large lizards, at
+least a foot in length from head to tail. The wind was still
+southerly. I again enquired, as I had often done before, whether my
+companions had often experienced the Semoum (which we translate by
+the poisonous blast of the desert, but which is nothing more than a
+violent south-east wind). They answered in the affirmative, but
+none had ever known an instance of its having proved fatal. Its
+worst effect is that it dries up the water in the skins, and so far
+it endangers the traveller’s safety. In these southern countries,
+however, water skins are made of very thick cow-leather, which are
+almost impenetrable to the Semoum. In Arabia and Egypt on the
+contrary the skins of sheep or goats are used for this purpose, and
+I witnessed the effect of a Semoum upon them, in going from Tor to
+Suez over land in June 1815, when in one morning a third of the
+contents of a full water skin was evaporated. I have repeatedly
+been exposed to the hot wind, in the Syrian and Arabian deserts, in
+Upper Egypt and Nubia. The hottest and most violent I ever
+experienced was at Suakin, yet even there I felt no particular
+inconvenience from it, although exposed to all its fury in the open
+plain. For my own part I am perfectly convinced that all the
+stories which travellers or the inhabitants of the towns of Egypt
+and Syria relate of the Semoum of the desert, are greatly
+exaggerated, and I never could hear of a single well authenticated
+instance of its having proved mortal either to man or beast. The
+fact is that the Bedouins when questioned on the subject, often
+frighten the townspeople with tales of men, and even of whole
+caravans having perished by the effects of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">[205]</span> the wind, when upon closer enquiry made by
+some person, whom they find not ignorant of the desert, they will
+state the plain truth. I never observed that the Semoum blows close
+to the ground, as commonly supposed, but always observed the whole
+atmosphere appear as if in a state of combustion; the dust and sand
+are carried high into the air, which assumes a reddish, or blueish,
+or yellowish tint, according to the nature and colour of the
+ground, from which the dust arises. The yellow however always, more
+or less, predominates. In looking through a glass of a light yellow
+colour, one may form a pretty correct idea of the appearance of the
+air, as I observed it during a stormy Semoum at Esne, in Upper
+Egypt, in May 1813. The Semoum is not always accompanied by
+whirlwinds; in its less violent degree it will blow for hours with
+little force, although with oppressive heat; when the whirlwind
+raises the dust it then encreases several degrees in heat. In the
+Semoum at Esne the thermometer mounted to 121° in the shade, but
+the air seldom remains longer than a quarter of an hour in that
+state, or longer than the whirlwind lasts. The most disagreeable
+effect of the Semoum on man is, that it stops perspiration, dries
+up the palate, and produces great restlessness. I never saw any
+person lie down flat upon his face to escape its pernicious blast,
+as Bruce describes himself to have done in crossing this desert;
+but during the whirlwinds the Arabs often hide their faces with
+their cloaks, and kneel down near their camels to prevent the sand
+or dust from hurting their eyes. Camels are always much distressed,
+not by the heat but by the dust blowing into their large,
+prominent, eyes. They turn round and endeavour to screen themselves
+by holding down their heads, but this I never saw them do except in
+case of a whirlwind, however intense the heat of the atmosphere
+might be. In June 1813, going from Esne to Siout, a violent Semoum
+overtook me upon the plain between Farshiout and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">[206]</span> Berdys. I was quite alone,
+mounted upon a light-footed Hedjin. When the whirlwind arose
+neither house nor tree was in sight, and while I was endeavouring
+to cover my face with my handkerchief, the beast was made unruly,
+by the quantity of dust blown into its eyes, and the terrible noise
+of the wind, and set off at a furious gallop; I lost the reins and
+received a heavy fall, and not being able to see ten yards before
+me, I remained wrapped up in my cloak on the spot where I fell,
+until the wind abated, when pursuing my dromedary, I found it at a
+great distance, quietly standing near a low shrub, the branches of
+which afforded some shelter to its eyes.</p>
+
+<p>Bruce has mentioned the moving pillars of sands in this desert,
+but although none such occurred during my passage, I do not presume
+to question his veracity on this head. The Arabs told me that there
+are often whirlwinds of sand, and I have repeatedly passed through
+districts of moving sands, which the slightest wind can raise; I
+remember to have seen columns of sands moving about like water
+spouts in the desert on the banks of the Euphrates, and have seen
+at Jaka terrible effects from a sudden wind; I therefore very
+easily credit their occasional appearance in the Nubian desert,
+although I doubt of their endangering the safety of travellers.</p>
+
+<p>The plain which we crossed this morning was in some places
+covered with granite rocks, and large blocks of gneiss. We marched
+in a S. by W. direction, nearly parallel to the course of the
+river, which was about four hours on our right. We saw some low
+sand hills on the western banks of the Nile. At eight hours we
+reached Wady el Homar (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي
+الحُماَر</span>), i. e. the asses valley, where we halted. It is
+said that wild asses are sometimes seen in the neighbouring desert
+called Homar Elwaheish (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حُمار
+الوَحش</span>). The Wady el Homar contains a few trees.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">[207]</span><em>March
+23d.</em> We continued to traverse in a S. by W. direction, the
+same level country, where no mountains are in sight. The plain is
+covered with black stones, Egyptian pebbles, and quartz. I have not
+observed any specimens of jasper during the whole route from
+Daraou. We passed several Wadys, and saw some hares. At four hours
+we halted in Wady Belem (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي
+بِلَم</span>), perhaps (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي
+سِلَم</span>) full of trees. The Ababde guides obliged the caravan
+traders to pay them here one half of what was due to
+them,<a id="FNanchor_96"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_96">[6]</a> and several people started
+for Berber to carry the news of our arrival. We set out again late
+in the afternoon. The plain was sandy, with a slight slope towards
+the Nile. In approaching the river we met with large flocks of the
+Katta (a bird of the partridge kind). We felt the approach of the
+river at more than two hours distance from it, by a greater
+moisture in the air. The Arabs exclaimed “God be praised we smell
+again the Nile.” At the end of nine hours we reached about ten
+o’clock at night the village of Ankheyre (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">انخُيِرَه</span>), the principal place in the district of
+Berber (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بربر</span>). The caravans
+always make it a rule to arrive here in the night, in order that
+their loads may be less exposed to public examination, and that
+they may be able to secrete some trifles from the vigilance of the
+custom officers.</p>
+
+<p>The road, which we had travelled is the only one that leads from
+Berber to Egypt, and is the general route of the Shendy and Sennaar
+caravans. There is a more western route from Berber to Seboua, a
+village on the Nile in the Berbera country, not far from Derr, the
+inhabitants of which actively engage in the slave trade. On that
+road the traveller finds only a single well, which is situated
+midway, four long days distant from Berber, and as many
+from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">[208]</span> Seboua. It is
+called el Morrat (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">آلمُرَّة</span>),
+and is very copious, but the water is ill-tasted. A great
+inconvenience on that road is that neither trees nor shrubs are any
+where found, whence the camels are much distressed for food, and
+passengers are obliged to carry wood with them to dress their
+meals, and to warm themselves in winter. The journey from Daraou to
+Berber had taken us twenty-two days. But it is to be observed that
+until we reached Haimar, and even as far as Naby, we made very
+short journies. The mountains to the east of Assouan and Haimar,
+three days journies towards the Red Sea, are said to be much higher
+than any we have seen. They are called the mountains of Otaby
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عُتابي</span>), which appellation
+is extended sometimes to the whole chain as far as Kosseir, meaning
+always those mountains distant from the Nile and not far from the
+sea. The Djebel Otaby is the exclusive patrimony of the Ababde, and
+is most peopled in summer time, when the Ababde settlers of Upper
+Egypt send there their cattle. There is much intercourse between
+the Ababdes of Otaby and the Bisharein of Olba.<a id="FNanchor_97"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_97">[7]</a> Haimar is reckoned five days from Daraou,
+and we were nine days on the road. The distance from Daraou to
+Berber is generally computed by the traders at six-teeen or
+seventeen days. In returning from Berber, the journey is performed
+more rapidly, because they are abundantly furnished with camels,
+are all mounted themselves, and the camels are relieved every day
+of their loads. They then sleep three or four hours during the day,
+and travel the greater part of the night, thus often performing the
+journey in twelve days. Messengers on dromedaries have often gone
+in eight days from Daraou to Berber. When the rains fall abundantly
+and the water collects every where on the road, in ponds or low
+grounds producing pasturage in the valleys, the caravans generally
+remain a month on their passage.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">[209]</span> We had reckoned upon eighteen days only,
+and had taken provisions accordingly, which was the reason why we
+were in so much distress for provisions and water towards the end
+of the journey, particularly for the beasts; my own ass fed for two
+days upon nothing but lentils. The traders give their camels every
+two or three days about twelve pounds of Dhourra; but to the most
+heavy loaded camel, which bears from six to seven hundred-weight,
+they give a daily allowance. All our animals were very much
+fatigued; the greater part of the camels had their backs horribly
+wounded,<a id="FNanchor_98"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_98">[8]</a> in consequence of the
+pressure of the loads, and of the avarice and negligence of the
+owners, who, in order to save a few piastres for a good and well
+stuffed saddle, exposed the poor beasts to the greatest sufferings.
+Many camels however are able to perform this journey three times,
+backwards and forwards, in the year.</p>
+
+<p>On our arrival at Ankheyre, each merchant repaired to the house
+of his friend, for there are no public Khans here, and traders
+always lodge at private houses. The Alowein from Daraou established
+themselves in the house of Edris el Temsah,<a id="FNanchor_99"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_99">[9]</a> a man related to the chief of the place,
+and as I still thought that these people might be of some service
+to me, and wished therefore not openly to break with them, I joined
+their party. We were that night hospitably entertained by Edris,
+and the next morning crowds of visitors poured in.</p>
+
+<p>The village belongs to the district of Berber, which comprises
+also three other large villages to the south of it: Goz el Souk
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قوز السوق</span>), or
+Goz<a id="FNanchor_100"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_100">[10]</a> the market place, Goz el
+Funnye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قوز
+الفنّيَه</span>),<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">[210]</span>
+and to the north el Hassa (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الحَصَّه</span>), about three quarters of an hour distant from
+Ankheyre. It is a mode of division prevalent all over Upper Egypt
+and Nubia, to divide the country into Wadys, or vallies, each of
+which is composed of several villages. The name of the district is
+frequently applied to the principal village, and thus the word
+Berber is often used in speaking only of Ankheyre. The name of
+Berber has probably given rise to the appellation by which the
+Nubians are generally designated in Egypt, where they are called
+Berábera (plural of Bérbery); but this name is not in use in their
+own country, for, as I have already mentioned, in my former
+Journal, they are known among themselves by the names of Nouba and
+Kenous. The Egyptians seeing traders of the same complexion coming
+both from Berber and from the district of Ibrim, have applied the
+same name to both nations; and for a similar reason, the people of
+Berber are often confounded with those of Sennaar, and called
+Senáry.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Berber are Arabs of the tribe of Meyrefab
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ميريفاب</span>). In common with all
+the different Arab tribes who inhabit the Nile valley, from Upper
+Egypt to Sennaar, they report that their origin is from the Sherk,
+or east (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">من الشرق</span>), meaning
+Arabia. The name of Meyrefab however does not appear to be from an
+Arabic root, and bears more resemblance to the Bisharein language.
+None of the tribes who live on the banks of the Nile are large, and
+each district is seldom more than one day’s march in length. The
+territory of the Arabs Sheygya<a id="FNanchor_101"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_101">[11]</a> is the largest. The settlements of the Meyrefab
+extend only for six or eight hours along the river, but many of
+them inhabit the neighbouring districts, as foreign settlers. They
+say that the Meyrefab can arm a body of one thousand free Arabs,
+and five hundred slaves, but<span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">[211]</span> in their wars with their neighbours, they
+seldom appear with more than four or five hundred men. Their chief
+is a man of their own tribe, who assumes the title of Mek (an
+abbreviation of Melek, king), which is common to all the petty
+chieftains of these countries, as far as Darfour and Sennaar. The
+authority of the Mek is confined to the reigning family, but is not
+hereditary from father to eldest son; for the king of Sennaar, who,
+since the succession of the royal family of Funnye has extended his
+authority along the Nile as far north as the southern limits of
+Wady Mahass, nominates to the governorship of this place any member
+of the family of Temsah whom he pleases, or rather he sells it to
+the highest bidder, after the Mek’s decease. With the exception of
+this nomination, the king of Sennaar exercises no authority over
+Berber, but he sends every four or five years one of his people to
+collect, in the way of tribute, some presents, consisting of gold,
+horses, and camels; about twenty horses and thirty camels. The
+kings of Dóngola, until the invasion of the Mamlouks, had always
+paid a similar tribute to Sennaar, and the Sheygya were bound to
+the same, but the latter having of late become powerful, have
+refused to pay it any longer. A similar tribute is exacted of the
+petty tribes between the Sheygya and Berber, and the king of
+Sennaar names their chiefs in the same manner as he does that of
+Berber. Many strangers beside the Meyrefab have settled at Berber,
+particularly natives of Dóngola and Ababde Arabs from Upper Egypt;
+many of these have taken up their constant residence here, others
+are married at Berber, and have another family in Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>The Mek exercises only a feeble authority over the Arabs of his
+tribe, especially those who belong to powerful families; nor does
+he exact any taxes from the fields or their produce, but he is
+oppressive to strangers, the taxes and other exactions from
+whom<span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">[212]</span> make up the
+best part of his income. The tribute which he pays to Sennaar is
+collected from the whole tribe, and he takes care not to be a loser
+by the contribution. The sums paid to Sennaar for recognizing him
+in his office, after the decease of his predecessor, are generally
+made up by a forced loan from any caravan that may then be passing;
+and whichever individual of the reigning family possesses the
+greatest influence, and most friends and money to secure his
+election at Sennaar, easily places himself at the head of the
+government.</p>
+
+<p>The four villages of Berber are all at about half an hour’s walk
+from the river situated in the sandy desert, on the borders of the
+arable soil. Each village is composed of about a dozen of quarters,
+Nezle (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نزله</span>), standing
+separate from one another, at short distances. The houses are
+generally divided from each other by large court-yards, thus
+forming no where any regular streets. They are tolerably well
+built, either of mud or of sun-baked bricks, and their appearance
+is at least as good as those of Upper Egypt. Each habitation
+consists of a large yard divided into an inner and outer court.
+Round this yard are the rooms for the family, which are all on the
+ground floor; I have never seen in any of these countries a second
+story, or staircase. To form the roof, beams are laid across the
+walls; these are covered with mats, upon which reeds are placed,
+and a layer of mud is spread over the whole. The roof has a slope
+to let the rain water run off, which in most houses is conducted by
+a canal to the court-yard, thus rendering the latter in time of
+rain a dirty pond. Two of the apartments are generally inhabited by
+the family, a third serves as a store room, a fourth for the
+reception of strangers, and a fifth is often occupied by public
+women. The rooms have seldom more than one very small window, so
+that to have them well lighted the door must be kept open. The
+doors are of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">[213]</span> wood,
+and have the same wooden locks and keys (Dabbé) which are used in
+Syria and Egypt, but of still coarser workmanship. I have seldom
+seen any furniture in the rooms, excepting a sofa or bedstead,
+which is an oblong wooden frame, with four legs, having a seat made
+either of reeds, and then called Serír, or of thin stripes of
+ox-leather drawn across each other, and then called Angareyg (a
+Bishary word). The best of the latter kind are brought from
+Sennaar; many of them are exported to Upper Egypt, and Arabia, and
+they are used all over the black countries. The honoured stranger
+always has an Angareyg brought to him upon his arrival, which
+serves as a bed for the night, and a sofa in the day, and it is
+said that the peculiar smell of the leather keeps it free from
+vermin. Mats made of reeds are spread in the inner part of the
+rooms where the women sleep, as well as in other rooms, where the
+men take a nap during the mid-day hours, a luxury never dispensed
+with in these countries. When they sleep they generally spread a
+carpet made of pieces of leather sown together, stretching
+themselves out upon this, and preferring, according to the general
+custom of the Arabs, to sleep without any pillow, and with the head
+lying upon the same level with the rest of the body. In the
+store-room Dhourra is kept, either in heaps upon the floor, or in
+large receptacles formed of mud, to preserve it from rats and mice.
+Swarms of these animals nevertheless abound, and they run about the
+court-yards in such quantities that the boys exercise themselves in
+throwing lances at them, and kill them every day by dozens. Besides
+the Dhourra, the store rooms generally contain a few sheep-skins
+full of butter, some jars of honey, some water-skins for
+travellers, and if the proprietor be a man in easy circumstances,
+some dried flesh. The inner court is generally destined for the
+cattle, camels, cows and sheep, and it has a subdivision, where are
+preserved the dry Dhourra stalks, which become the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">[214]</span> usual food of the cattle, when
+the summer heats have dried up all the verdure which the inundation
+had produced. The outer court in the generality of houses, contains
+a well of brackish water, fit only for cattle; here the
+male-inhabitants of the house and strangers sleep, during the hot
+season, either upon mud benches adjoining the rooms, or upon
+Angareygs, or upon the ground; here the master’s favourite horse is
+fed, and here all business is transacted in the open air. I have
+already mentioned a room of public women, often met with in these
+habitations. Indeed there are very few houses of people called here
+respectable, where such women are not lodged, either in the
+court-yard itself, or in a small room adjoining the yard, but
+without its gate; in the house where I lodged, we had four of these
+girls, one of whom was living within the precincts, the three
+others in contiguous apartments. They are female slaves, whom their
+masters, upon marrying or being tired of them, have set at liberty,
+and who have no other livelihood but prostitution, and the
+preparation of the intoxicating drink called Bouza. Female slaves
+are often permitted to make a traffic of their charms before they
+are at liberty, in order that they may acquire a sufficient sum of
+money to purchase it. When at liberty their former owners take care
+to make them pay house rent; some masters are said to participate
+in their gains, and generally afford them protection in the
+quarrels which frequently happen.</p>
+
+<p>The night of our arrival at Berber, after we had supped, and
+that the neighbours who had come to greet us had retired, three or
+four of these damsels made their appearance, and were saluted with
+loud shouts by my companions, who were all their old acquaintance.
+Some Angareygs were brought into the open court-yard, which the
+principal people of our party having taken possession of, the women
+proceeded to give them “the welcome,”<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">[215]</span> as they call it. The men having undressed
+to their loins, and stretched themselves at full length upon the
+Angareygs, were rubbed by the women with a kind of perfumed grease,
+much in the same manner as is used after coming out of the bath.
+This operation lasted for about half an hour, but the parties
+remained together for the whole night, without being in the least
+annoyed by the neighbourhood of those who were lying about in the
+court-yard. During the whole of our stay at Berber we had these
+damsels almost every evening at our quarters, and the same was the
+case in the other houses occupied by travellers. The rooms of the
+women were scarcely for a moment free from visitors. They prepare,
+as I have already stated, the Bouza, and as it is difficult for any
+person to indulge in the drinking of this liquor in his own house,
+where he would be immediately surrounded by a great number of
+acquaintance, it is generally thought preferable to go to the
+women’s apartment, where there is no intrusion. Many of these women
+are Abyssinians by birth, but the greater part of them are born at
+Berber of slave parents (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مولُدَّين</span>). They are in general handsome, and many of
+them might even pass for beauties in any country.</p>
+
+<p>The women of Berber, even those of the highest rank, always go
+unveiled, and young girls are often seen without any covering
+whatever, except a girdle of short leathern tassels about their
+waists. Many, both men and women, blacken their eyelids with Kohel
+or antimony, but the custom is not so general as in Egypt. The
+women of the higher classes, and the most elegant of the public
+women, throw over their shirts, white cloaks with red linings of
+Egyptian manufacture, made at Mehalla el Kebir, in the Delta. Both
+sexes are in the almost daily habit of rubbing their skins with
+fresh butter. They pretend that it is refreshing, prevents
+cutaneous complaints, and renders the surface of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">[216]</span> skin smoother; the men, in
+reference to their frequent quarrels, add, that it renders the skin
+tougher and firmer, and more difficult to be cut through with a
+knife. I can say from my own experience that I have found great
+relief during the mid-day heats, from rubbing my breast, arms, and
+legs with butter, or my feet, if I was fatigued with walking. The
+cutaneous eruption called the prickly heat, which is so common in
+Egypt, is never seen here, and I had often occasion to admire the
+smooth and delicate appearance of the skin, even in men who were
+very much exposed to the sun. It is by the nature of their skin
+that these Arabs distinguish themselves from the Negroes; though
+very dark coloured, their skin is as fine as that of a white
+person, while that of the Negroes is much thicker and coarser. The
+hands of the latter are as hard as a board, while the touch of the
+Arabs, who are not of the labouring class, is as soft as that of
+the northern nations. The perfumed grease, which is made use of
+only upon extraordinary occasions, is a preparation of sheep’s fat
+mixed with soap, musk, pulverized sandalwood, senbal, and mahleb.
+It has an agreeable odour, and the men pretend that it is a
+powerful stimulant; but the truth seems to be, that they generally
+use it before they visit their mistresses.</p>
+
+<p>The people of Berber are a very handsome race. The native colour
+seems to be a dark red-brown, which if the mother is a slave from
+Abyssinia becomes a light brown in the children, and if from the
+Negro countries, extremely dark. The men are somewhat taller than
+the Egyptians, and are much stronger and larger limbed. Their
+features are not at all those of the Negro, the face being oval,
+the nose often perfectly Grecian, and the cheek bones not
+prominent. The upper lip however is generally somewhat thicker than
+is considered beautiful among northern nations, though it is still
+far from the Negro lip. Their legs and feet are well formed, which
+is seldom the case with the Negroes. They have a short<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">[217]</span> beard below the chin, but
+seldom any hair upon their cheeks. Their mustachios are thin, and
+they keep them cut very short. Their hair is bushy and strong, but
+not woolly; it lies in close curls, when short, and when permitted
+to grow, forms itself into broad high tufts “We are Arabs, not
+Negroes,” they often say; and indeed they can only be classed among
+the latter by persons who judge from colour alone.</p>
+
+<p>The Meyrefab, like the other Arab tribes of these parts of
+Africa, are careful in maintaining the purity of their race. A free
+born Meyrefab never marries a slave, whether Abyssinian or black,
+but always an Arab girl of his own or some neighbouring tribe, and
+if he has any children from his slave concubines, they are looked
+upon only as fit matches for slaves or their descendants. This
+custom they have in common with all the eastern Bedouins, while, on
+the contrary, the inhabitants of the towns of Arabia and Egypt are
+in the daily habit of taking in wedlock Abyssinian as well as
+Negroe slaves.</p>
+
+<p>In marrying, the bride’s father receives, according to the
+Mussulman custom, a certain sum of money from the bride-groom, for
+his daughter, and this sum is higher than is customary in other
+parts inhabited by Arabs. The daughters of the Mek are paid as much
+as three or four hundred dollars, which the father keeps for them
+as a dowry. Few men have more than one wife, but every one who can
+afford it keeps a slave or mistress either in his own or in a
+separate house. Kept mistresses are called companions (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فيقه</span>), and are more numerous than in the
+politest capitals of Europe. Few traders pass through Berber
+without taking a mistress, if it be only for a fortnight.
+Drunkenness is the constant companion of this debauchery, and it
+would seem as if the men in these countries had no other
+objects<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">[218]</span> in life.
+The intoxicating liquor which they drink is called Bouza
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بوزه</span>). Strongly leavened
+bread made from Dhourra is broken into crumbs, and mixed with
+water, and the mixture is kept for several hours over a slow fire.
+Being then removed, water is poured over it, and it is left for two
+nights to ferment. This liquor, according to its greater or smaller
+degree of fermentation, takes the name of Merin, Bouza, or Om
+Belbel (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ام بلبل</span>), the mother
+of nightingales, so called because it makes the drunkard sing.
+Unlike the other two, which being fermented together with the
+crumbs of bread, are never free from them, the Om Belbel is drained
+through a cloth, and is consequently pure and liquid. I have tasted
+of all three. The Om Belbel has a pleasant prickly taste, something
+like Champagne turned sour. They are served up in large roundish
+gourds open at the top, upon which are engraved with a knife a
+great variety of ornaments. A gourd (Bourma <span class="arabic" lang="ar">بُرمه</span>) contains about four pints, and whenever a
+party meet over the gourd, it is reckoned that each person will
+drink at least one Bourma. The gourd being placed on the ground, a
+smaller gourd cut in half, and of the size of a tea-cup, is placed
+near it, and in this the liquor is served round, to each in turn,
+an interval of six or eight minutes being left between each
+revolution of the little gourd. At the beginning of the sitting,
+some roasted meat, strongly peppered, is generally circulated, but
+the Bouza itself (they say) is sufficiently nourishing, and,
+indeed, the common sort looks more like soup or porridge, than a
+liquor to be taken at a draught. The Fakirs or religious men, are
+the only persons who do not indulge (publicly at least) in this
+luxury; the women are as fond of it, and as much in the habit of
+drinking it, as the men. A Bourma of Bouza is given for one measure
+of Dhourra, three-fourths of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">[219]</span> measure of Dhourra being required to make
+the Bourma, and the remainder paying for the labour.</p>
+
+<p>In other respects the people of Berber are abstemious, and they
+often fast the whole day, for the sake of being able to revel in
+the evening. The chief article of food is Dhourra bread. As they
+have no mills, not even hand-mills, they grind the Dhourra by
+strewing it upon a smooth stone, about two feet in length and one
+foot in breadth, which is placed in a sloping position before the
+person employed to grind. At the lower extremity of the stone, a
+hole is made in the ground to contain a broken earthen jar, wooden
+bowl, or some such vessel, which receives the Dhourra flower. The
+grinding is effected by means of a small stone flat at the bottom;
+this is held in both hands and moved backwards and forwards on the
+sloping stone by the grinder, who kneels to perform the operation.
+If the bread is to be of superior quality, the Dhourra is well
+washed and then dried in the sun; but generally they put it under
+the grinding stone without taking the trouble of washing it. In
+grinding, the grain is kept continually wet by sprinkling some
+water upon it from a bason placed near, and thus the meal which
+falls into the pot, resembles a liquid paste of the coarsest kind,
+mixed with chaff and dirt. With this paste an earthen jar is
+filled, containing as much as is necessary for the day’s
+consumption. It is left there from twenty-four to thirty-six hours,
+during which time it slightly ferments and acquires a sourish
+taste. No leaven is used; the sour liquid is poured in small
+quantities upon an iron plate placed over the fire, or when no iron
+is at hand, upon a thin well smoothed stone: and if the iron or
+stone is thoroughly heated, the cake is baked in three or four
+minutes. As each cake is small, and must be baked separately, it
+requires a long time to prepare a sufficient quantity; for it is
+the custom to bring several dozen to table while hot, in a large
+wooden bowl; some onion sauce, or broth,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">[220]</span> or milk, is then poured upon them, the
+sauce is called Mallah (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ملَّاح</span>). The bread is never salted, but salt is mixed
+with the sauce. This dish is the common and daily food both at
+dinner and supper. Although very coarse it is not disagreeable, and
+the sourish taste, renders it peculiarly palatable during the heat
+of the mid-day hours. It is of easy digestion, and I always found
+it agree with me; but if left to stand for a day it becomes ill
+tasted, for which reason it is made immediately before dinner or
+supper. Cakes of this kind, but still thinner, and formed of a
+paste left for two or three days to turn quite sour, are made for
+travelling provision. After being well toasted over the fire, they
+are left to dry thoroughly in the sun, they are then crumbled into
+small pieces and put into leather bags, called Abra (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابره</span>). They thus keep for many months,
+and serve to the traders upon occasions, when it is impossible to
+prepare a supper with fire. Some melted butter is poured over a few
+handfuls of this food, and appetite is seldom wanting to make it
+palatable. Sometimes the crumbs are soaked in water, and when the
+water has acquired a sourish taste it is drank off; this is called
+by the traders “the caravan beverage, Sharbet el Jellabe
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شَربة الجَلَّابه</span>).”</p>
+
+<p>Meat is often brought upon the table boiled or roasted, and milk
+is a principal food of the people. Dates are a great dainty; they
+are imported by the Dongola merchants from Mahass, and are used
+only upon extraordinary occasions. They are often boiled together
+with bread, meat, and milk. Coffee is drank only by the merchants
+and the very first people, and even by them it is not in daily use.
+The coffee is not the Arabian or Mokha coffee, but that which grows
+wild in the south-western mountains of Abyssinia, from whence it is
+imported by the Sennaar merchants. It is sold thirty per cent.
+cheaper than the Mokha coffee in Egypt, but its shape and taste
+appear to be the same.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">[221]</span>The effects
+which the universal practice of drunkenness and debauchery has on
+the morals of the people may easily be conceived. Indeed every
+thing discreditable to humanity is found in their character, but
+treachery and avidity predominate over their other bad qualities.
+In the pursuit of gain they know no bounds, forgetting every divine
+and human law, and breaking the most solemn ties and engagements.
+Cheating, thieving, and the blackest ingratitude, are found in
+almost every man’s character, and I am perfectly convinced that
+there were few men among them or among my fellow travellers from
+Egypt who would have given a dollar to save a man’s life, or who
+would not have consented to a man’s death in order to gain one.
+Especial care must be taken not to be misled by their polite
+protestations, and fine professions, especially when they come to
+Egypt: where they represent their own country as a land inhabited
+by a race of superior virtue, and excellence. On the contrary,
+infamous as the eastern nations are in general, I have never met
+with so bad a people, excepting perhaps those of Suakin. In
+transactions among themselves the Meyrefab regulate every matter in
+dispute by the laws of the strongest. Nothing is safe when once out
+of the owner’s hands, for if he happens to be the weaker party, he
+is sure of losing his property. The Mek’s authority is slighted by
+the wealthier inhabitants: the strength of whose connections
+counterbalances the influence of the chief. Hence it may well be
+supposed that family feuds very frequently occur, and the more so,
+as the effects of drunkenness are dreadful upon these people.
+During the fortnight I remained at Berber, I heard of half a dozen
+quarrels occurring in drinking parties, all of which finished in
+knife or sword wounds. Nobody goes to a Bouza hut without taking
+his sword with him; and the girls are often the first sufferers in
+the affray. I was told of a distant relation of the present chief,
+who was for several years the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">[222]</span> dread of Berber. He killed many people with
+his own hands upon the slightest provocation, and his strength was
+such, that nobody dared to meet him in the open field. He was at
+last taken by surprise in the house of a public woman, and slain
+while he was drunk. He once stript a whole caravan, coming from
+Daraou, and appropriated the plunder to his women. In such a
+country, it is of course looked upon as very imprudent to walk out
+unarmed, after sunset; examples often happen of persons, more
+particularly traders, being stripped or robbed at night in the
+village itself. In every country the general topics of conversation
+furnish a tolerable criterion of the state of society; and that
+which passed at our house at Ankheyre gave the most hateful idea of
+the character of these people. The house was generally filled with
+young men who took a pride in confessing the perpetration of every
+kind of infamy. One of their favourite tricks is to bully
+unexperienced strangers, by enticing them to women who are the next
+day owned as relations by some Meyrefab, who vows vengeance for the
+dishonor offered to his family; the affair is then settled by large
+presents, in which all those concerned have a share. The envoy whom
+Ibrahim Pasha sent in 1812 to the king of Sennaar was made to
+suffer from a plot of this kind. Upon his return from Sennaar to
+Berber, he was introduced one evening to a female, at whose
+quarters he passed the night. The Mek of Berber himself claimed her
+the next morning as his distant relation. “Thou hast corrupted my
+own blood.” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">انت فَسلَة في
+دَمّي</span>) said he to the envoy, and the frightened Turk paid
+him upwards of six hundred dollars, besides giving up to him the
+best articles of his arms and baggage. I had repeated invitations
+to go in the evening to Bouza parties, but constantly refused.
+Indeed a stranger, and especially an unprotected one, as I was,
+must measure all his steps with caution, and cannot be too
+prudent.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">[223]</span>Upon our first
+arrival the people appeared to me very hospitable. Every morning
+and evening large dishes of bread and meat and milk, often much
+more than we could eat, were sent to us from different quarters.
+This lasted for five or six days, when those who had sent the
+dishes came to ask for presents, as tokens of friendship; this was
+well understood to be a demand of repayment; and we found ourselves
+obliged to give ten times the value of what we had eaten. In
+general foreign merchants are considered as “good morsels”
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">لقُمةَ</span> as the Arabs say), of
+which every body bites off as much as he can; we were the whole day
+beset by people who came to ask for presents, but our companions
+were old traders; they well knew to whom it would have been
+imprudent to deny a favour, but never made the smallest present,
+except when necessary. I have had people running after me the whole
+day praying to have a piece of soap to wash their shirt. Had I
+listened to them I should have had ten demands of the same kind the
+next day. It may be taken as a general rule in these countries
+never to make any presents unasked, or to give more than half of
+what is requested, for a traveller will find it more useful to his
+purposes to have the reputation of parsimony, than that of
+generosity. The same advice would not be suitable in Syria or
+Egypt, and it may here be remarked, that of all the duties which
+belong to the traveller, that of knowing the proper seasons for
+making or withholding presents is the most troublesome and
+difficult, not only in the Negroe countries, but in every part of
+the East known to me.</p>
+
+<p>Among the plagues that await the traveller in Berber the
+insolence of the slaves is the most intolerable. Being considered
+as members of the family in which they reside, they assume airs of
+importance superior even to those of their masters. The latter are
+afraid to punish or even seriously to reprimand them
+for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">[224]</span> their offences,
+as they can easily find opportunities of running away, and by going
+to the Bedouins or the Sheygya they are safe from any further
+pursuit. One of the slaves of Edris, to whom I had already made
+some little presents, tore my shirt into pieces because I refused
+to give it him, and when I applied to Edris for redress, he
+recommended patience to me, for that no insult was meant. The grown
+up slaves are always armed; they hold themselves upon a par with
+the best Arabs, and feel humbled only by the conviction that they
+cannot marry the Arab girls. The insolence of the slaves, as well
+as of the people in general, is in nothing more displayed than
+their behaviour with regard to smoking; if they see a stranger with
+a pipe in his mouth, they often take it from him without saying a
+word, and are unwilling to return it before they have smoked it
+out. To a smoker, as all the orientals are, nothing can be more
+disagreeable. The people of Berber are themselves immoderately fond
+of tobacco, but they smoke only at home when they expect no
+visitors, and scarcely ever carry their pipes abroad, because
+tobacco is a very dear commodity, and they fear lest the best whiff
+should fall to the lot of others. I have often seen the Egyptian
+traders, men who would rather give up their dinner than their pipe,
+reduced to desperation by the impudence of their Berber
+visitors.</p>
+
+<p>In a small treatise on physiognomy by Ali Ben Mohammed El
+Ghazali, wherein he paints the characters of the different
+Mohammedan nations, he thus describes the Nubians: “They are a
+people of frolic, folly and levity, avaricious, treacherous and
+malicious, ignorant and base, and full of wickedness and lechery.”
+This picture is true in every part, applied to the people of
+Berber; for besides what I have already said of them, they are of a
+very merry facetious temper, continually joking, laughing, and
+singing. Even the elderly men are the same, and they have at least
+retained one<span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">[225]</span> good
+quality of their Arabian ancestors; they are not proud. The Mek of
+Berber is satisfied with common civility, and assumes no
+distinction of rank; the slaves of his family, shew much more
+haughtiness than himself.</p>
+
+<p>The people of Berber, can be very polite when they think proper.
+In receiving strangers and in offering them hospitality, they
+assume an air of goodness of heart, and patriarchal simplicity,
+which might dupe the most practised traveller, but consummate
+hypocrites as they are, they seldom deceive those, who have been at
+Berber before. Their language is full of complimentary phrases, and
+they ask after your health and welfare in a dozen different forms
+of speech. After a long absence they kiss and shake hands with
+eagerness. Women are saluted by men in a very respectful manner, by
+touching their foreheads with the right hand, and then kissing the
+part of the fingers which touched the woman’s head. A common
+question asked in saluting is Shedid? (strong?). A still more
+curious expression, and one which I never heard before, is
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نَعلَك طَيب</span> Naalak Tayeb, “is
+your sole well?” meaning, “are you strong enough to walk about as
+much as you like?” On meeting a person for the first time after the
+death of a near relation, they kneel down upon one knee by his
+side, and repeat in a howling tone of voice, as a lamentation,
+“Fi’Sabil Allah, fi’Sabil Allah” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">في
+سَبيل اللَّه</span>), literally, “in the road of God,” but
+signifying that the deceased went through the right way of God and
+may hope to obtain the divine protection. Then they lift up the
+person, either man or woman, by the hand, and the common salutation
+passes between them.</p>
+
+<p>With some surprise, I observed that in an avowed Mussulman
+country, the usual salute of “Salamun aleykum,” is quite out of
+use. The general expression of salute is only the word
+Tayeb?<span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">[226]</span> (well);
+repeated several times. The religious men only say sometimes,
+“Salam Salam,” without any other word; but they never are answered,
+as usual among Mussulmen, with Aleykum essalam, the common reply
+being “Tayeb, ent tayeb? well, are you well? The members of the
+Mek’s family are saluted by the appellation of “Ya Arbab”
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">يا آرباب</span>), plur. of “Rab,”
+(lord). They have the title of “Ras,” meaning head, as Ras Edris,
+Ras Mohammed, &amp;c. which is used all over these countries; and
+from hence the same title seems to have been introduced into
+Abyssinia. Government is called with the pompous title of Es
+Saltane (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">السلطَنه</span>), which is
+not applied to the existing chief, but to the government in
+general.</p>
+
+<p>I lived too short a time at Berber to be able to witness their
+peculiar customs in wedding, burying, circumcising, &amp;c. &amp;c.
+which are no doubt different from the true Mohammedan customs, as
+prescribed by the law. Upon the death of a person, they usually
+kill either a sheep, or, if the relations are wealthy, a cow or
+camel. During our stay at the house of Edris, he killed a cow for a
+relation of his, who died several months before, in the time of
+famine, when it was impossible to find a cow to slaughter for that
+purpose. Almost all the religious men of Ankheyre were sent for to
+read some passages of the Koran in a separate room. A great number
+of women assembled in another room, singing to the tambourine, and
+howling horribly during the greater part of the night. Many poor
+people were treated in the court yard, with broth and the roasted
+flesh of the cow, while the choice morsels were presented to the
+friends of Edris.</p>
+
+<p>I have more than once mentioned the Fakirs,<a id="FNanchor_102"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_102">[12]</a> or religious men. They are likewise known
+by the appellation of Fakih (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فقيه</span>), i. e. a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">[227]</span> man learned in the law.<a id="FNanchor_103"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_103">[13]</a> There are few respectable families who
+have not a son or relation that dedicates his youth to the study of
+the law. At the age of twelve or fourteen he is sent to some of the
+neighbouring schools, of which those of Damer, on the road to
+Shendy, of Mograt,<a id="FNanchor_104"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_104">[14]</a> and of the Sheygya are at present the most
+celebrated. There they are taught to read and write, and to learn
+by heart as much of the Koran and of some other prayer books, as
+their memory can retain.<a id="FNanchor_105"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_105">[15]</a> They are taught the secret of writing amulets
+or charms; and at the age of twenty they return to their homes,
+where they live, affecting great uprightness of conduct and
+strictness of morals, which amount however to little more than not
+to smoke tobacco, or drink Bouza in public, and not to frequent the
+resorts of debauchery.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes they write amulets upon a piece of paper, which if the
+unhappy lover swallows, it will force the object of his love to
+listen to his intreaties. There are particular Fakirs famous for
+love receipts; others for febrifuges, &amp;c. The following are two
+amulets, one of which was given to me at Berber, and the other at
+Damer. If to the former, the proper name is added, no female is
+capable of withstanding the charm, at least such was the assurance
+given to me by the Fakir Mansur, from whom I bought the secret for
+a string of wooden beads, but I never yet had an opportunity of
+trying its efficacy.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">[228]</span>
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw1">
+<figure class="iw1" id="i31"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i31.jpg" id="img_images_i31.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>The following is an amulet which protects the owner from being
+wounded.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw2">
+<figure class="iw2" id="i32"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i32.jpg" id="img_images_i32.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+
+<p>The people of Berber appear to be a healthy race. There seemed
+to be few invalids, and the place being situated on the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">[229]</span> skirts of the desert, the air
+is certainly wholesome. I was told of a fever called wardé
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ورده</span>), from woid (rose),
+which seems to be epidemic, and often proves mortal; the people of
+Dóngola are very subject to it; it exists during the time of high
+water, but does not make its appearance every year. The plague is
+unknown, and from what I heard during my former journey in Nubia, I
+have reason to believe that it never passes the cataract of
+Assouan. The small-pox is very destructive whenever it gains
+ground. Last year it was added to famine, and deaths were very
+numerous. It had been brought to Berber by the people of Taka, who
+had received it from the Souakin traders; it spread over all the
+country up the Nile. Grown people were attacked as well as
+children; it was observed even, that the latter suffered less and
+that more of them escaped. About one-third of those who were
+attacked recovered, but they bore the marks on their skin,
+especially on the arms and face, which were covered with
+innumerable spots and scars; very few instances happen where the
+disease is of a mild kind, or where it leaves but few marks.
+Inoculation, Dak-el-Jedri (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دق
+الجدري</span>), is known, but not much practised; little benefit
+being supposed to arise from it. The incision is usually made in
+the leg. Of the large family of Temsah (our landlord’s), fifty-two
+persons died within a few months, and while I am writing this (at
+Cairo, December 1815), I hear from some traders, that the same
+disease has again broken out, and that almost the whole family,
+including Edris, have perished. Their only cure for the small pox
+is to rub the whole body with butter three or four times a day, and
+to keep themselves closely shut up. The disease generally visits
+them every eight or ten years. They are infinitely more afraid of
+it than the Levantines are of the plague: and great numbers of the
+inhabitants emigrate to the mountains, to fly<span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">[230]</span> from the infection. I have heard it said
+in Egypt, that the small pox is rendered more dangerous in the
+negroe countries than elsewhere, by the thickness of the negroe
+skin, the fever being increased by the resistance of such a skin,
+to the efforts of the poison to break through it. This may be true
+with respect to the negroe slaves, but is not probable at Berber,
+where the people’s skin is quite as soft as ours. I saw few
+instances of ophthalmia. Venereal complaints are said to be common,
+but if it be so, their consequences appear to be less fatal than in
+Egypt, for I never saw any of those ulcered faces, or mangled
+noses, which are so common in the northern valley of the Nile.</p>
+
+<p>The Meyrefab are partly shepherds, and partly cultivators. After
+the inundation, they sow all the ground which has been inundated,
+with Dhourra, and a little barley. Just before they sow, they turn
+up the ground with the spade. The plough is not in use among them;
+last year an Egyptian employed one for the first time. They have
+very few water wheels, not more than four or five in the districts
+of Ankheyre and Hassa. They sow only once a year, and as the banks
+of the Nile are very high, higher in general than in Upper Egypt,
+many spots of arable soil remain without being inundated. The
+deficiency is not often supplied, as in Upper Egypt, by artificial
+irrigation, for the purpose of procuring several crops from the
+same land, so that it may easily be conceived, that famine often
+visits them. Thus it happened the year before my arrival, when one
+<em>moud</em> of Dhourra was sold for half a Spanish dollar. The
+country, however, appears, at no very remote period, to have
+enjoyed a more flourishing state of culture than it does at
+present; for I observed in the fields vestiges of deep canals,
+which are at present entirely neglected, although by their help,
+even part of the adjoining desert plain might be rendered
+cultivable. Dhourra is the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">[231]</span> principal produce of the ground, and the
+chief food both of man and beast. Wheat is not sown at Berber, and
+very little is found in any of the adjoining countries. The Dhourra
+is of the same species as that of Upper Egypt, but the stalks are
+much higher and stronger, rising often to the height of sixteen or
+twenty feet. No vegetables are grown except onions, kidney beans
+(Loubieh), the esculent mallow, or Bahmieh,<a id="FNanchor_106"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_106">[16]</a> and the Melukhyeh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ملوخيه</span>), all of which are common in Egypt. No
+fruits whatever are cultivated, and if I am rightly informed, the
+lotus nebek, which grows wild, is the only one known.</p>
+
+<p>The Berberys rear a large quantity of cattle, of the best kind,
+which in winter and spring time, after the rains, is pastured in
+the mountains of the Bisharein, where the keepers live like
+Bedouins in huts and tents. During the latter part of the spring,
+the cattle feed upon the wild herbs, which grow among the Dhourra
+stubble as thickly as grass in a meadow. In summer time, when the
+herbs are dried up, and there is scarcely any pasture upon the
+mountains, they are fed at home with the dry stalks, and leaves of
+the Dhourra. The principal riches of the shepherds consist in their
+cows and camels. They have sheep and goats, but the greater part
+having been consumed during the last famine, they are at present
+not numerous. The cows are of a middling size, and not strongly
+built: they have small horns, and upon the back, near the fore
+shoulder, there is a hump of fat. This breed is unknown in Egypt;
+it begins in Dóngola, and all along the Nile, as far as Sennaar, no
+others are seen. The cows represented in the battle-pieces on the
+walls of several ancient temples in Upper Egypt, have the same
+excrescence. I saw the same species in the Hedjaz. Cows
+are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">[232]</span> kept for their
+milk, but principally for their meat, and there are a few for the
+purpose of turning the water-wheels.</p>
+
+<p>The camels are of the best breed, much stronger, and more
+endured to fatigue even than the celebrated breeds of Upper Egypt:
+their dromedaries surpass all that I saw in the Syrian and Arabian
+deserts. The camels have very short hair, and have no tufts on any
+part of their body. The Hedjin or dromedary, is not of a different
+species from the camel of burthen, but they are very careful of the
+breed, and an Arab will undertake a journey of several days to have
+his dromedary covered by a celebrated male. At present there is a
+great demand for camels for the Egyptian market; they are bought up
+by the Pasha to be sent to Arabia, for the transport of army
+provisions, and every month three or four hundred are marched off
+through the desert; yet a camel is worth here only from eight to
+twelve dollars, though sold at Daraou for thirty or forty, and at
+Cairo for fifty or sixty dollars.</p>
+
+<p>The sheep of these southern countries have no wool, but are
+covered with a thin short hair, resembling that of goats; hence the
+inhabitants set little value upon them, and rear them for the table
+only. Almost every family keeps two asses; they are of a strong
+breed, and are employed chiefly to bring home the produce of the
+fields, and transport the nitrous earth called Sabakha
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سَبَخه</span>), which is procured
+in the mountain: the inhabitants cover their fields with this
+earth, previously to sowing their seed, but whether as manure, or
+as a corrective to the fatness of the soil, I could not learn.
+Egyptian asses are much in demand, because they run faster than the
+native; they are rode by the great people, and are eagerly
+purchased on the arrival of every caravan. Horses are numerous;
+every family of respectability keeping at least one,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">[233]</span> and many two or three. The
+Arabs in the Nubian countries ride stallions only. In their wars
+with their neighbours, the Meyrefab bring into the field a
+considerable number of horsemen, who generally decide the battle.
+The horses are of the Dóngola breed, which, as I have already
+stated in my journey towards that country, is one of the finest
+races in the world. They are fed upon Dhourra, and its dried leaves
+serve instead of straw or hay: for several weeks in the spring they
+are pastured in the green barley. A horse costs from fifteen to
+forty dollars. They are not called Hoszan, as in Egypt, but Hafer
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حافِر</span>). The saddles, which
+are of the same form as those used in Dóngola, Sennaar, and
+Abyssinia, somewhat resemble those of the European cavalry, having
+a high pommel in front, bending forward on the horse’s neck. When
+entering on a campaign, the back, sides, neck, and breast of the
+horses are covered with pieces of woollen stuff, thickly quilted
+with cotton, which are said to be impenetrable by the lance and
+sword; they are called Lebs (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">لِبْس</span>), the name given to a similar covering used by
+the Eastern Bedouins, but which the Meyrefab work in a neater
+manner, and lighter, though stronger.</p>
+
+<p>Almost all the people of Berber, who are cultivators, employ the
+time not required by their fields, in commercial transactions; the
+place has thus become a principal mart for the southern trade, and
+the more so, as all the caravans from Sennaar and Shendy to Egypt
+necessarily pass here. Berber itself carries on trade with Egypt,
+and many small caravans load and depart from hence, without waiting
+for supplies from the southern markets. Almost every article of the
+Negro trade, including slaves, may be purchased at Berber, from
+fifteen to twenty per cent. dearer than at Shendy. Berber has a
+public market; but the late famine, and the great mortality caused
+by the small pox, had occasioned a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">[234]</span> momentary suspension, which had not been
+removed at the period of our arrival.</p>
+
+<p>The common currency of the country at Berber, and all the way
+from thence to Sennaar, is Dhourra, and Spanish Dollars; every
+thing of minor value has its price fixed in Dhourra, which is
+measured by Selgas (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سلقا</span>), or
+handfuls. Eighteen Selgas make one Moud, or measure: one Selga is
+as much as can be heaped upon the flat extended hand of a
+full-grown man. It may easily be conceived that disputes frequently
+arise between buyers and sellers, from the unequal size of their
+hands; in such case a third person is usually called in to measure
+the Dhourra: ten Mouds are now given for one dollar. If a
+considerable quantity of Dhourra is to be measured out, the
+contents of a wooden bowl, or other vessel, is previously
+ascertained in handfuls, and this vessel is then used. They have,
+it is true, Mouds, or measures of wood, but nobody trusts to them,
+the hand-measure being always preferred. Besides the Dhourra,
+another substitute for currency is the Dammour (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دمّور</span>), a coarse cotton cloth, which is
+fabricated in the neighbourhood of Sennaar, and principally used by
+the people of this country for their shirts: one piece of Dammour
+is exactly sufficient to make one shirt for a full grown man; this
+is called Tob, or Thob Dammour (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">توب
+دمّور</span>, plural <span class="arabic" lang="ar">تياب</span>).
+When I was at Berber, one dollar was paid for two Tob. The Tob
+Dammour is divided into two Ferde Dammour; the Ferde (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فرده</span>) makes a long napkin, used by the
+slaves to wrap round their waists. The Ferde contains two Fittige,
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فِتقِه</span>) which serve for
+nothing else than a currency; thus I remember to have bought some
+tobacco with a Fittige. Dhourra is generally the most acceptable
+medium, as sellers will not always take the Dammour at the real
+market price, which, moreover, varies on the arrival of every
+caravan from the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">[235]</span>
+south. Slaves, camels, horses, or any other articles of large
+amount, are paid for in dollars, or Tob Dammour; but the broker
+takes his commission in Dhourra, which he readily converts into
+dollars. In commerce, two reals, or dollars, are called Kesme
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قِسمه</span>); four are termed
+Mithkal (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مثقال</span>); eight, or
+half an ounce, Nosfwokye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نصف
+وقيه</span>), and sixteen are called Puma, or Wokye. These
+denominations were taken originally from the gold weights, one
+ounce of gold being generally worth about sixteen dollars; but they
+have now become fixed appellations, and sixteen dollars are called
+Wokye, even though the ounce of gold should be worth eighteen or
+twenty dollars, as was the case during my stay at Berber.</p>
+
+<p>In Cordofan, besides Dhourra and Dokhen, the usual currency is
+small pieces of iron, which are wrought into lances, knives, axes,
+&amp;c.; besides these pieces of iron, <em>cows</em> are used as a
+representative of money in large bargains, and are thus continually
+transferred from one person to another.</p>
+
+<p>I shall enter more into detail on the different articles of
+Negro trade, when I come to speak of the Shendy market; both places
+deal in the same commodities; there is much less trade, however, at
+Berber, than at Shendy, from its having no direct intercourse with
+any southern state, except Shendy, while the latter is visited by
+slave caravans from all quarters, and is at present the first
+commercial town, perhaps, of Africa, south of Egypt, and east of
+Darfour. All the slaves, and every other article for sale in the
+Berber market, come from Shendy; yet the Egyptian merchants often
+prefer this market to the more southern ones, notwithstanding the
+increased charges; because they can finish their business more
+quickly, and profit by the first opportunity to return through the
+desert. During my stay at Berber, a caravan set out for Daraou,
+consisting of about two hundred and fifty camels, and twenty
+slaves; several of my companions having disposed of their
+merchandize,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">[236]</span>
+returned with it. Still, however, the Berber market contains but a
+small quantity of goods, and is fit only for the Egyptian traders
+with small capitals.</p>
+
+<p>In Upper Egypt the caravans from Berber are commonly called
+Sennaar caravans; for the Egyptians having little knowledge of the
+southern countries, all the caravans which arrive from thence are
+classed under the two heads of Darfour and Sennaar, according as
+they enter Egypt from the western or the eastern desert: the latter
+comprise the caravans from Sennaar, Shendy, Berber, Mahass, and
+Seboua. Every caravan arriving at Berber from the south remains
+there for some time, in order to engage proper guides, and make
+other preparations for the journey across the desert. Many of the
+Ababde are settled here, and are always ready to undertake the
+journey; for twenty dollars none will refuse to accompany a
+caravan, and they serve both for guides and protectors. Many
+traders are well acquainted with the route, but if unaccompanied by
+an Ababde, they would be stripped by any Bedouin of the same tribe
+whom they might happen to meet on the road. The caravans must pay
+at Berber a transit duty to the Mek, the collection of which, from
+every individual, requires several days. The Mek exacts from each
+person coming from Egypt, without reference to the number of loads
+or camels he may have, or whether he be a master or a servant, five
+Tob Dammour; his officers must be paid one Tob, his slaves one Tob;
+and whenever the chiefs of the Bisharein of the tribes of Are-ab
+and Ali-ab, or their relations, meet a caravan here, they demand
+one Tob more; this demand is made because the Bisharein are masters
+of the desert from hence to the wells of Naby: to the north of Naby
+the country is reckoned to be in the dominions of the Ababde, and
+may thus be said to form part of Egypt, the Ababde being tributary
+to the government of Egypt. The seven<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">[237]</span> Tobs are collected by the Mek, who
+distributes to his people their portion; the Bisharein collect
+their Tob themselves; and if none of them happen to be present, the
+caravan does not pay any thing on their account. The Mek takes his
+payment either in dollars or in Dammour, or if the people of the
+caravan have no ready cash upon their arrival, which frequently
+happens, their last farthing being often invested in goods
+previously to their quitting Egypt, he then takes merchandize, but
+at a value fixed by himself. The Ababde are exempted from this
+transit duty, because they are themselves, as is said, “Ahl
+Soltane,” or independent people, in their own mountains; and it is
+held that one chief cannot with honour take any thing as duty from
+another. But the fact is, that the people of Berber are afraid of
+them, because, when any quarrels happen between them and the
+Ababde, the latter descend from their mountains and make plundering
+incursions towards Berber, carrying off cattle and slaves in the
+night. The Bisharein traders also pass duty free, but their numbers
+are very small; only three or four merchants of their tribe
+frequent this route.</p>
+
+<p>The Mek exacts no fixed toll from the caravans arriving from the
+south, and here entering the desert, because these traders come
+from the capital of his sovereign; but he receives some trifling
+presents from each trader, proportionate to the number of his
+camel-loads and slaves.</p>
+
+<p>The above are not the only duties exacted by the Mek and his
+party. They enquire after the particular merchandize brought by
+every merchant from Egypt, and then ask for presents beyond what is
+due to them: the Mek is assisted in this enquiry by the traders
+themselves, who inform against each other, in order to ingratiate
+themselves in his favour. The first week of our stay at Berber was
+passed in continual endeavours on the part of the Mek to obtain
+various presents, and corresponding efforts in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">[238]</span> the traders to elude them. Having been
+always represented as a very poor man in the caravan, the Mek took
+only three dollars from me at first; but being afterwards informed
+that I had some dollars in my girdle, he obliged me to give him a
+fourth. Were it not for his apprehensions of the more powerful
+chief of Shendy, and of a total interruption of the transport trade
+by way of Berber, he would certainly prove still more vexatious to
+traders by his demands. I calculate his yearly income from the
+caravans at about three or four thousand Spanish dollars; he spends
+this sum in keeping a large establishment of male and female
+slaves, of horses, and fine dromedaries; and in feeding daily about
+fifty people belonging to his household, as well as strangers. He
+must likewise make frequent presents to his relatives, and his
+party, to strengthen his influence over them; thus he has never
+been able to accumulate any considerable capital.</p>
+
+<p>The most wealthy man of Berber, next to the Mek, was pointed out
+to me, with the observation that he possessed about two thousand
+dollars, which he gained last year, during the famine, by happening
+to have a full-stocked granary. The generality of the people styled
+respectable possess from three to six hundred dollars each,
+including the value of their cattle, household furniture,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>Berber has few channels of commercial intercourse, except Daraou
+and Shendy. I was told that caravans used formerly to go from hence
+to Dóngola, not along the Nile, because they would then be stopped
+at every village for toll, but across the mountains on the western
+bank of the river. Since the Arabs Rebatat have been at war with
+all their neighbours, that road has been continually infested by
+them, and has therefore been discontinued. At present the
+intercourse with Dóngola is carried on by way of Shendy only, from
+whence the caravans depart in a straight<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">[239]</span> direction across the mountains. Many
+merchants from Dóngola are settled here; they trade principally in
+dates and tobacco; and their wives and slaves have the reputation
+of making the best Bouza. The Bisharein Bedouins, and the
+husbandmen on the banks of the river Mogren (the Mareb of Bruce),
+repair to Berber to buy Dammour; and they purchase from the
+Egyptian traders beads, antimony, nutmegs, and the various
+ingredients used in the preparation of the perfumed grease already
+mentioned. Caravans also arrive occasionally from Taka, across the
+eastern mountains, a journey of ten or twelve days, to buy the same
+articles, or to exchange ox hides and camels for them. Small
+caravans, composed principally of Bisharein, come also from
+Souakin, a journey of ten days, with spices and India piece goods,
+chiefly cambrics. This route is not frequented by foreign traders,
+from apprehension of the treachery of the Bisharein; but if any
+pilgrims happen to be at Berber, in their way to Mekka, when one of
+these caravans sets out on its return, they often take the same
+route, in which water is found in plenty. The usual route of the
+Negro pilgrims, however, is either along the banks of the Nile, or
+by way of Taka, of which I shall speak hereafter. I had myself some
+idea of trying the journey to Taka, from whence I had reason to
+hope that I might reach the northern frontiers of Abyssinia, in the
+direction of Massouah. As there were many people at Berber who had
+come from Sennaar, and as these, upon being questioned, by my
+companions, about my pretended lost relation, all agreed that no
+white man was then in Sennaar, I was obliged to resort to the
+supposition that he had quitted it, and gone on towards Abyssinia;
+I was thus enabled to make enquiries concerning the route across
+the desert to Taka, and towards Souakin, without creating
+suspicion; and my companions pressed me much to travel in the
+latter direction, and to wait at Berber till a favourable
+opportunity<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">[240]</span> should
+offer for setting out. They would, no doubt, have been glad to see
+me undertake a journey of evident peril, thinking that if I
+perished, they would be entirely rid of me, for they could not
+divest themselves of some secret apprehensions that, if I ever
+returned to Egypt, I should find means of being revenged upon them
+for their behaviour towards me. Upon closer enquiry, however, I
+found that this route is quite impracticable for strangers; the
+people of Berber, even, are afraid to trust themselves, except in
+large numbers, with the Bisharein, who will kill their companions
+if they have a prospect of the smallest gain; and persons
+recommended by the Mek himself are not more secure. The traveller
+must always carry with him some little merchandize and baggage, in
+order to barter on the road for provisions, and this is more than
+sufficient to excite the cupidity of the Bisharein, and render him
+the victim of their treachery. In the course of my enquiries on
+this occasion, I was informed that, about five or six years before,
+a man had reached Berber from Egypt, who was supposed to be a
+Christian, because he made notes of his journey in
+writing.<a id="FNanchor_107"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_107">[17]</a> It was said that he made considerable presents
+to the Mek, who strongly recommended him to a small party of
+Bisharein; he set out for Souakin in their company, but was
+murdered by them in the road, and on their return, a small present
+purchased their peace with the Mek.</p>
+
+<p>I heard afterwards that, about eight or ten years since, an
+avowed Christian, who spoke very little Arabic, and passed Sennaar,
+in his way from the north (I suppose from Egypt), was murdered by
+the Arabs in the mountains between Sennaar and Abyssinia, but not
+in the caravan route. When at Shendy, I enquired after such a
+traveller, but nobody knew any thing of him. Had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">[241]</span> he come by the western caravan
+route from Darfour and Kordofan, I think I must have heard of him,
+because white people (and this person was said to be white) are
+much more noticed in that quarter, than in the route from Egypt;
+and he must have been seen by some of the Kordofan travellers, with
+several of whom I became acquainted at Shendy. I did not hear that
+he was seen writing a journal.</p>
+
+<p>The success of a traveller, in this part of the world, depends
+greatly, I may say wholly, upon his guides and fellow travellers,
+and their being well disposed towards him. If he is not thoroughly
+acquainted with the language of the country it will be very
+difficult for him to select proper persons for his guides or
+companions, or to elude the snares laid for him by villainy or
+treachery; it is in vain to suppose that fortune will throw in his
+way honest or friendly people, who are too scarce ever to be
+calculated upon, in preparing for a journey through these
+countries. The traveller must consider himself as surrounded by
+some of the most worthless of the human race, among whom he must
+think himself fortunate, if he can discover any less depraved than
+the rest, whom he can place some degree of confidence in, and make
+subservient to his views; and which can only be done by identifying
+their interest with his own safety. Above all, he must never be
+seen taking notes. I am fully convinced, that if I had ever been
+detected by my companions with my journal in my hand, it would have
+given rise to the most injurious reports, and blasted all my hopes
+of success. While travelling through the desert I took my notes
+with much more ease than during my stay at Berber. Being mounted on
+a good ass, I used to push on ahead of the caravan, and then alight
+under some tree, or rock, where I remained, unobserved, apparently
+occupied only in smoking my pipe, until the caravan came up; but at
+Berber, and at Shendy also, I was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">[242]</span> often at a great loss how to withdraw from
+the persons who surrounded me in the house where we lodged; and it
+was unsafe to walk so far from the village into the fields, as not
+to be observed. The having persons thus continually hanging about
+me, was the most disagreeable circumstance attending my stay in
+these countries. I might have escaped it in some measure, perhaps,
+by taking a lodging for myself, which I could have readily
+procured, but then I should have been entirely unprotected in the
+house of a stranger, who might have proved worse even than my
+companions; I should also have been unmercifully annoyed the whole
+day by visitors begging presents, and the little baggage I had
+would have been much less secure. On the contrary, by continuing to
+live with my old companions from Daraou, my person was far less
+noticed than if I had resided alone, my expenses were not so great,
+I acquired a good deal of information as to the mode of carrying on
+the trade, and found myself in some degree secure, by the
+respectability of my companions, however little disposed they might
+be to protect or favour me.</p>
+
+<p>Merchants always prefer taking up their abode in some
+respectable house, and if possible in that of a relation of the
+chief, because they are then protected by the authority of their
+landlord, who would resent any serious insult offered to his
+guests. Our Ababde guides, who were in no fear of any
+importunities, or insolence from the Meyrefab, took up their
+quarters in the house of a poor Fakir, where they were much more
+comfortable, and more at their ease than ourselves. My companions
+made me contribute two dollars for my share of the landlord’s bill;
+I paid, besides, one dollar for my quota of the presents given to
+those who had sent us some dishes of meat at different times; one
+dollar I exchanged for Dhourra to feed my ass, and for a little
+tobacco: these, together with four dollars to the chief at Berber,
+and three to the chief<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">[253]</span> of the caravan, who had a right to exact
+five; five dollars paid for the carriage of my baggage, and four
+for that of my water-skins through the desert, amounted to so
+considerable a sum, when compared with the state of my purse, that
+I could not help entertaining some melancholy thoughts on my future
+prospects.</p>
+
+<p>When the day was at length fixed for our departure for Shendy,
+whither the greater part of the merchants intended to carry their
+goods, some presents were made up amongst our party for our
+landlord Edris: he was not easily satisfied; his old wife too had
+some claims; but after much quarrelling, he at last accepted
+merchandize to the value of twenty dollars, as a recompense for
+having entertained us in his house fourteen days. We were about a
+dozen in number, but the daily expense did not, certainly, amount
+to more than one-third, or half a dollar; for, except on the first
+day, when he killed a lamb for us, we never partook of any other
+dish from his kitchen than Dhourra bread, with butter, one large
+dish of which was served up at mid-day, and another late at night.
+As we were only passengers, and had no slaves with us, our meals
+were provided by the master of the house; but when traders return
+hither, on their way to Egypt, accompanied, as they usually are, by
+a number of female slaves, the latter dress their masters victuals,
+and the owner of the house is then paid only for his lodgings.</p>
+
+<p>The preceding details respecting Berber are for the greater part
+applicable to Shendy, and, as far as I could learn, to all the
+petty Mekdoms from thence to Sennaar.</p>
+
+<p>The country on the western side of the Nile, opposite to Berber,
+is not cultivated, but I was told that, in following the course of
+the river, on that side, considerable settlements of Arabs are met
+with, especially in the country of Mograt, which is inhabited by
+the Arabs Rebatat, an independent tribe like the Meyrefab,
+extending two or three days journey along the Nile. One of its
+principal<span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">[254]</span> places is
+Bedjem (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بجم</span>), three long days
+from Berber; it is at present the residence of Hedjel, the chief of
+Mograt, who succeeded his relation Naym, the famous robber, already
+mentioned: The latter had accumulated great riches by robbing the
+Egyptian caravans; he expended the greater part in purchasing young
+female slaves, and was fond of boasting of the enjoyments of his
+Harem. He generally waylaid the caravans between Berber and the
+wells of Nedjeym, but sometimes he followed them as far as Shigré.
+He had frequently been fired at, but his strong coat of mail being
+proof against a distant musket shot, he had acquired the reputation
+of being a sorcerer, furnished with amulets to render him
+invulnerable to mortals. Some Faky having told the merchants that,
+as his amulets were written in defence of leaden bullets only, he
+might be killed with silver ones, several of the traders melted
+Spanish dollars into large slugs, with which they loaded their
+guns. Naym’s true amulet, however, was the distant firing and bad
+aim of his assailants. Whenever he apprehended that the strength of
+a caravan might be superior to his own, he used to halt at some
+distance from the travellers, and having ordered some particular
+party to withdraw from the rest, assured them that it was not
+against them that his intentions were directed; having thus
+succeeded in separating a part, he easily dispersed the remainder.
+He always kept his word with those who thus retired, and allowed
+their loaded camels to proceed untouched, although, on some other
+occasion, perhaps, they might be comprised amongst the number
+attacked. His success is the strongest proof of the cowardice and
+bad faith of the traders who were capable of thus abandoning their
+companions; such conduct, in the Arabian deserts, would consign a
+tribe to everlasting infamy.</p>
+
+<p>Naym shewed less cruelty towards the helpless travellers than
+might be expected from an African robber. After stripping
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">[255]</span> caravan, he
+generally permitted them to take as many camels, and as much
+provision as would carry them to Egypt, or back to Berber; and as
+he knew the greater part of the merchants personally, he often
+returned them a slave or two at parting. Several Ababdes having
+been killed in one of his attacks, the whole tribe was inspired
+with the desire of revenge, and it was not long before they found
+an opportunity of exercising it. The large caravan which left
+Sennaar for Egypt in 1812, in company with the envoys of the Pasha,
+was escorted by several hundred armed Ababdes. They halted for many
+days at Berber, in order to prepare for their journey through the
+desert. During this time the Ababde chief of the caravan received
+secret intelligence that Naym had taken a new bride, and had fixed
+a certain day for his nuptials. The caravan was ordered to leave
+Berber on the preceding day, and the chief, accompanied by about
+one hundred armed camel-riders, set out the night before, for the
+purpose, as he said, of dividing the number of camels, and thus
+watering the animals with more ease at Shigré. When he had
+proceeded some distance into the desert, instead of following the
+direct road, he turned westwards, and hastened across the mountains
+towards Mograt. Reaching the residence of Naym, he surrounded the
+house and set fire to it, when Naym sallied forth and was killed,
+with about half a dozen of his companions. His head was carried to
+Egypt, and his ears sent to Mohammed Aly Pasha, then in the Hedjaz.
+The unfortunate bride was obliged to marry one of her husband’s
+murderers, who brought her to Egypt, from whence she afterwards
+found means to escape to Dóngola, and is now again with her family
+at Mograt. The fate of Naym, however, has not prevented another
+robber from succeeding him in these mountains: his name is Kerar,
+and he is chief of the Ababdes of the tribe of Asheybab. In 1814,
+he plundered several<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">[256]</span> caravans, composed mostly of people of
+Berber, and retreated with his booty to his tents in the mountains
+of Ottaby. The Pasha of Egypt has made many attempts to seize him,
+but hitherto without success.</p>
+
+<p>At present, as may well be conceived, there is very little
+intercourse between Berber and Mograt, or the more distant country
+of the Sheygya, except by Negro pilgrims, who follow the inhabited
+banks of the Nile to Egypt. The war now carried on between the
+Sheygya, and the Mamelouks in Dóngola is unfavourable to mercantile
+speculations. Several battles have been fought, in which about one
+hundred and fifty of the Sheygya, and fifty of the Mamelouks, have
+been killed. The latter captured some horses and slaves, but being
+unable to subdue their adversaries, and tired of a fruitless and
+harassing warfare, they have withdrawn their forces from the
+southern limits of Dóngola, and concentrated themselves in its
+northern provinces towards Argo, where they still remain. Their
+principal chief, Ibrahim Beg el Kebir, died of old age in 1813, and
+Abdurrahman Beg el Manfoukh is now considered as the head man
+amongst them. Several of the Begs, instead of going to Dóngola,
+came from Egypt across the desert to Berber, and Selim Beg el Towyl
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سليم بك الطويل</span>) lived for
+several months in the same house we occupied. The chief of Berber
+being afraid of the Mamelouks, behaved to the Beg with the greatest
+appearance of kindness and generosity. Many persons at Berber
+believed that I belonged to the Mamelouks, and that I had made my
+escape from Upper Egypt, in order to join them. Though I disliked
+this report, yet I preferred it to being supposed to belong to the
+household or army of the Pasha of Egypt. The circumstance of his
+having sent an envoy to Sennaar, had made people suspect that he
+had some design upon these countries; the chiefs every where viewed
+his increasing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">[257]</span>
+strength in Egypt with great jealousy, and he was much disliked by
+all merchants, on account of the heavy duties he had laid on the
+imports from the south; I therefore took great care to avoid
+exciting any suspicion that I was in his interest, and concealed
+the letters of recommendation I had with me, which I intended to
+make use of only in case of the utmost necessity.</p>
+
+<p>The distance from Berber to the southern limits of the country
+of the Arabs Sheygya is four long days journey across the mountains
+on the western side of the Nile. A district called Djohfe
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جهفه</span>), where trees and
+springs are met with, forms a part of these mountains. The former
+king of Kordofan, El Hashemy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الهاشمي</span>), retired to these mountains after having been
+dispossessed of his territory by the present chief, called
+Metsellim, an officer of the King of Darfour, and he remained
+encamped there for several years, with a troop of followers; but he
+was at last so hard pressed by the Sheygya, as to be obliged to
+retire to Shendy, and to put himself under the protection of Nimr,
+the Mek of that place, by whom he was afterwards killed, having
+engaged, with the Mek’s brothers, in a conspiracy against him.</p>
+
+<hr class="decordb width10 spaced2">
+
+<h3>JOURNEY FROM BERBER TO SHENDY.</h3>
+
+<p><span class="sc">After</span> having settled all our accounts at
+Berber, our caravan, reduced to about two-thirds of its original
+number, set out again on the afternoon of the 7th of April. Several
+of the merchants had returned to Egypt, others remained at Berber
+to sell their goods, as did also many Ababdes, who had their
+families there, and who intended to remain till the return of the
+caravan from Shendy. I was not sorry to leave Berber; for the
+character of the inhabitants is such, that a stranger can never
+consider himself safe for a moment amongst them. Several of the
+first people of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">[258]</span> the
+town advised me strongly to remain, and wait for the opportunity of
+proceeding with a Taka caravan; but alone, I should have been
+entirely at the mercy of the Meyrefab, who, no doubt, intended to
+plunder me; I therefore resolved to proceed as far as Shendy, where
+I thought I should be more likely to meet with a safe conveyance
+towards the Red Sea.</p>
+
+<p>We proceeded this evening about two miles through the sands, and
+stopped at the village of Goz el Funnye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قوز الفنّيه</span>), belonging to Berber. Here we alighted in
+the court-yard of the house of a Fakir, a trader well known in
+Egypt, who entertained us hospitably, and asked for no presents.
+Whenever he visits Egypt, he quarters himself in like manner upon
+his acquaintance at Daraou. Late in the evening our host Edris paid
+us a last farewell visit, and insisted upon some further presents.
+After much disputing, he wrested from the Daraou traders a fine
+shield, worth eight dollars, the value of which we were obliged to
+pay him by a general contribution, in order to recover it.</p>
+
+<p><em>April 8th.</em> There are many ruins of modern buildings at
+Goz, which is now in decay; formerly, it was the chief place in
+Berber, and it is so mentioned by Bruce. In several places are
+public wells or pits of brackish water, where travellers water
+their beasts, the banks of the river being steep, and the descent
+to it very difficult. We pursued our way along the skirts of the
+desert, over a perfectly level plain or arable track of land, about
+two miles in breadth, which lay between us and the Nile. The ground
+was every where overgrown with the Oshour tree (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عُشور</span>), so often mentioned in my journey
+along the Nile towards Dóngola, and in the previous one through
+Arabia Petræa. Our path was well trodden, and might be called a
+high road; numerous paths diverged from it in every direction into
+the eastern desert. After about two hours march, we reached a woody
+tract, where Sant<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">[259]</span>
+and Sellam trees grow. The country on the western side of the Nile
+was, as far as I could see, perfectly flat, without any mountains
+or hills; but a white line, indicating the sands of the desert, was
+every where discernible beyond the narrow stripe of arable land
+which borders the course of the stream. We met many travellers, on
+horseback and on dromedaries, and women and children either riding
+alone on asses, or driving loaded asses before them. This road
+appears to be perfectly safe for the inhabitants of the country,
+though it would not be so for strangers, without a proper guide. We
+had taken two men from Ankheyre to escort us to the limits of the
+Wady Berber. At the end of three hours and a half, we entered the
+district of Ras el Wady; and at the end of four hours reached the
+village of that name (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">راس
+الوادي</span>), where we were obliged to stop, as a transit duty is
+here levied upon merchants. Ras el Wady is a considerable village,
+larger than Ankheyre, but not so well built, and containing many
+huts made of mats. We went straight to the Mek’s dwelling, and
+encamped on the open ground before it. This Mek, whose name is
+Hamze, is a relation of Noureddyn, the Mek of Berber (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مك حمزه ابن عم المك نورالدين في بربر</span>),
+but is quite independent of him, Ras el Wady being a principality
+of itself, although I think that most of its inhabitants are
+Meyrefabs, and of the same tribe with those who people Berber. Like
+the latter place, however, it is subject to the king of Sennaar, by
+whom the Mek is appointed. Hamze is much dreaded by the caravan
+travellers, especially the Egyptians. The Daraou traders supposing
+that they might, perhaps, on my account, experience some ill
+treatment from this chief, and convinced, at all events, that my
+society could no longer be of any advantage to them, as they saw
+that I fought for every handful of Dhourra, determined to abandon
+me entirely. We had halted for some minutes in the plain, near a
+pond of water, before the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">[260]</span> village. On starting again, they ordered
+me, in a contemptuous manner, to keep off, and not to come near
+their party any more. The boys accompanied these orders with a
+shouting similar to that which is made in driving dogs away, and
+then beating my ass with the but-end of their lances, they drove
+him into the desert.</p>
+
+<p>I had always endeavoured to keep on good terms with our Ababde
+companions, who, bad as they were, were still better than the
+Daraou people; I now asked them whether they intended to leave me
+to the mercy of the Meyrefab robbers, or would permit me to make
+one of their party. They immediately consented to my joining them,
+and my situation became thus materially bettered. During the whole
+of our stay at Berber, no dirty villainous trick or joke was left
+untried by my companions from Daraou to hurt my feelings and render
+me contemptible; at last, well assured that my bodily strength was
+superior to that of any of their party (for I had several times
+thrown the strongest of them in wrestling), the boys attempted to
+tire my patience by an incessant teazing, which I could not easily
+resent upon them, and which I thought it necessary to put up with,
+because I was afraid, that if I should leave the party abruptly I
+might expose myself to some more deliberate mischief, which I could
+not estimate, and had not the means of preventing.</p>
+
+<p>The Mek Hamze gave us a very cold reception. We remained from
+morning, till late in the evening, before he sent us any food; and
+my companions said, that if he should hear of any of us having
+eaten in the meanwhile of our own provisions, he would consider it
+as a great affront, because we were now his guests. Two of our
+merchants went up to the Mek, to negociate with him, about the sum
+to be paid, while the rest were all busily engaged in defending the
+baggage from the rapacity of the inhabitants, who had at first
+collected round it in great numbers, and inquiring, with
+apparent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">[261]</span> friendly
+concern, about our welfare, had soon after placed themselves in the
+midst of it. There was no open quarrel, but many things were found
+missing, and amongst the rest I lost my pipe. Late at night we were
+informed that the Mek would not be satisfied with less than ten
+dollars for each camel’s load, and four dollars from each trader; I
+was comprised among the latter, and the sum was paid down, partly
+in cash, and partly in goods. The Ababdes paid nothing, and for
+some presents given to them, they even secured several Egyptian
+camel loads from taxation, by claiming them as their own. I had
+reason to be afraid that the Mek would take my gun, for I had heard
+that he is in the habit of seizing upon all the fire-arms he can;
+in the preceding night, therefore, I made a pretended bargain for
+it with the Ababde chief, in the presence of the caravan, well
+knowing that my companions themselves would otherwise have betrayed
+me. The Ababde chief now declared to the Mek’s people that the gun
+was his, which nobody could deny. It was thus saved, but the Ababde
+took a dollar for his trouble.</p>
+
+<p>The Mek remained in his house the whole night, without our
+seeing him; but his son came down to ask for some presents for
+himself, which were flatly refused. He then inquired if there was
+any jolly fellow amongst us, who would keep him company at the
+Bouza shop. One of the Egyptians stepped forward, and had the
+honour of being led by him to a common brothel just by, where they
+sat drinking and singing the whole of the night.</p>
+
+<p><em>April 9th.</em> This morning Mek Hamze made his appearance;
+on quitting his house, he walked across the plain, and set himself
+down on a stone bench, near a house, in front of our baggage. It
+being a hot day, he was quite naked, with the exception of a towel
+tied round his loins, and his hair had just been smeared with
+grease. He was attended by six or eight slaves, one of whom carried
+a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">[262]</span> small
+water-flask, very prettily made of leather, of Sennaar manufacture;
+another his sword, and a third his shield; so that his Mekship had
+altogether a most proud and commanding appearance. The merchants,
+who had expected to be permitted to depart early in the morning,
+were alarmed, and apprehended the levy of a new contribution. We
+all went up to him, kissed his hand, and stood before him in the
+most humble posture. He said he was glad to see us, that he was a
+great friend to traders, but that of late they had become very
+niggardly; he then insisted upon a present for his son, and seeing
+a fine ass in the caravan, told him to mount it. The owner of the
+ass offered in vain six dollars, as a ransom; the animal was
+carried to the Mek’s stable, and we were then permitted to depart.
+This ass happened to be the very one which had carried me through
+the desert. Understanding, while on the road, that Egyptian asses
+were in great demand in the southern countries, especially among
+the great people, and mine having become famous in the caravan, for
+his great strength and activity, I foresaw that it would be
+difficult for me to preserve him from the avidity of the Meks, and
+I therefore exchanged him on the night preceding our arrival at
+Berber, for one of a smaller size, and of inferior strength,
+belonging to one of the traders from Daraou, who gave me a dollar
+into the bargain; he undoubtedly flattered himself that he had
+over-reached me, little thinking that any body would take the ass
+from him, and reckoning upon selling it afterwards for ten or
+twelve dollars. At Berber he contrived to save the animal from the
+clutches of Mek Noureddyn; but Mek Hamze’s rapacity was of a more
+determined kind, and made him sorely repent of his bargain with me.
+He pretended to insist upon taking back the ass he had exchanged
+with me; but the Ababdes took my part, and even secretly praised me
+for having led him into the scrape.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">[263]</span>A large party of
+Bisharein was encamped near Ras el Wady; they had come to purchase
+Dhourra for their summer provision. The brother of Mek Hamze had
+lately gone to Souakin, on his way to Arabia, with several slaves
+and fine horses, which he meant to offer as a present to the Sherif
+Hamoud, the chief of Yemen, expecting, of course, some suitable
+presents in return. Speculations of this sort are often made in
+these countries. Some of the dromedaries belonging to Mek Hamze
+were very fine animals, and their bridles and saddles were very
+fantastically ornamented. Every chief keeps a couple of dromedaries
+of the best race, for show, and, whenever he rides out, he is
+followed by them, mounted by two of his slaves.</p>
+
+<p>We departed from Ras el Wady in the course of the morning. The
+Mek sent two of his relations, to accompany us to the limits of his
+jurisdiction. Our road lay partly through barren sands, and partly
+through thin woods of acacia trees. In two hours we passed several
+hamlets, where Doum trees were numerous, and in the neighbourhood
+of which a large island is formed in the river. The inhabitants of
+these hamlets are said to be great robbers, and this was, probably,
+the reason why our two guides made us halt here, and demanded ten
+dollars for having accompanied us so far. Fond as the traders are
+of their money, they thought that circumstances required them to
+submit to the imposition, and the money was paid. At this time our
+caravan was reduced to about twenty camels; many of the lesser
+traders, in order to elude the payment of passage-money, having
+already preceded us, and passed during the night through the desert
+to the east of Ras el Wady; others, who had no camels to mount, had
+engaged a man of Goz to conduct them by night along a perilous path
+by the side of the river, and they joined us again beyond the
+territory of Mek Hamze.</p>
+
+<p>At a short distance from the hamlets, we came to a great
+number<span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">[264]</span> of new
+tombstones, in the desert, the melancholy proofs of the terrible
+ravages of the small-pox. According to the Nubian custom, and which
+I had already observed in the Berábera country, every tomb was
+covered with white pebbles, and pieces of quartz. The plain of the
+eastern desert is here interrupted by several sandy and gravelly
+hillocks. At the end of four hours, after passing through a wood of
+acacia trees, we reached the river Mogren (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مُقرن</span>), not Mareb, as Bruce writes it, a name
+quite unknown here. After descending a high bank, we passed for at
+least a mile, over deep sands in the bed of the river, and then
+came to a pool of stagnant water, about twenty paces broad, where
+the water reached up to the ankle: in many places there were
+similar pools, but no where any running stream. I estimated the
+height of the banks at thirty feet, and I observed the high-water
+marks to be about twenty feet from the bottom, from whence it is
+evident that this river can never inundate the adjacent country;
+indeed this fact was confirmed by my companions, who told me that
+during the time of high-water they pass the river in a boat brought
+from Damer for the purpose, and that they had never seen the
+country on either side of the river inundated, except by the waters
+of the Nile. The verdant banks of the Mogren, covered with fresh
+herbage and tamarisk bushes, afforded a delightful scene, which I
+was permitted to enjoy for a full hour, as many of the camels, in
+ascending the steep banks on the south side of the river, stumbled,
+and threw their loads, thus occasioning a delay.</p>
+
+<p>The Mogren forms the boundary between the territories of Ras el
+Wady and Damer. On its southern banks several water-wheels were at
+work, drawing up the water from some of the pools. The regular
+distribution of the fields, and the small channels for irrigation,
+shewed that agriculture is here more attended to than in
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">[265]</span> districts we
+had passed. The banks of the Mogren, for about two days journey
+above its confluence with the Nile, are inhabited by the Arabs, or
+Bedouins Djaalein (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جاعلين</span>);
+they are quite independent, and their tribes are widely spread over
+these countries as high as Sennaar. They are the strongest Arab
+tribe in this neighbourhood; they cultivate some Dhourra fields on
+the banks of the river, and feed many cattle.</p>
+
+<p>After passing the Mogren, we rode across a sandy barren plain,
+overgrown with Oshour, of which I saw trees twenty feet high, and
+then re-entered upon the arable soil, where we were met by some of
+the Shikhs of Damer, whom our advanced party had despatched to meet
+us, and to serve as an escort against the robberies of the
+Djaaleins, several of whose horsemen were seen hovering about, at a
+little distance from the caravan, with evidently bad intentions. At
+the end of six hours, and after sun-set, we entered Damer
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دامر</span>), a place of
+considerable note and reputation in this part of the world, and
+whose inhabitants, I was glad to find, are of a much better
+disposition than their neighbours of Berber. Having now joined the
+Ababdes of our caravan, I accompanied them to the house where they
+took up their quarters. We entered the dwelling of a Dóngola
+merchant, an old friend of my companions; he happened to be absent,
+but his wife gave us a kind reception, and cleaned two rooms in her
+court-yard, where the goods and baggage were deposited. We found
+here some Kordofan merchants, who had just come from Dóngola, by
+way of Shendy, and who gave us the latest news concerning the
+Mamelouks.</p>
+
+<p><em>At Damer, from 10th to 15th April.</em> Damer is a large
+village or town,<a id="FNanchor_108"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_108">[18]</a> containing about five hundred houses. It is
+clean, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">[266]</span> much
+neater than Berber, having many new buildings, and no ruins. The
+houses are built with some uniformity, in regular streets, and
+shady trees are met with in several places. It is inhabited by the
+Arab tribe of Medja-ydin (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مجايدين</span>), who trace their origin from Arabia; the
+greater part of them are Fokara, or religious men. They have no
+Shikh, but a high pontiff, called El Faky el Kebir (the great
+Faky), who is their real chief, and decides all matters in dispute.
+The family of Medjdoule, in whom this office is established, has
+the reputation of producing necromancers, or persons endowed with
+supernatural powers, from whom nothing remains hidden, and whose
+spells nothing can withstand. Innumerable stories are related of
+their magic powers, of which the following is a specimen: Abdallah,
+the father of the present Faky, caused a lamb to bleat in the
+stomach of the thief who had stolen, and afterwards eaten it. The
+Faky is resorted to in all cases where property is stolen, and as
+every body entertains the greatest terror of his supposed
+omniscience, it is generally an easy task with him to perform
+wonders. If I am not mistaken, the office of the great Faky is
+hereditary; of course it is essential that the successor should be
+a shrewd man, and well instructed in the Mussulman law, these being
+absolutely necessary to enable him to act his part. The great
+Shikh, however, is not the only person in the place who possesses
+magical powers; there are many Fakys of less note, who enjoy a
+similar credit, in proportion always to their sanctity and
+learning, and thus the whole town of Damer has acquired great
+reputation. Here are several schools, to which young men repair
+from Darfour, Sennaar, Kordofan, and other parts of Soudan, in
+order to acquire a proficiency in the law, sufficient to enable
+them to make a figure as great Fakys in their own countries. The
+learned men of Damer have many books, but they treat exclusively of
+religious and judicial subjects.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">[267]</span> Amongst others, I saw a copy of the Koran
+worth at least four hundred piasters, and a complete copy of
+Bochari’s Commentaries upon the Koran, worth double that sum, at
+the Cairo book-market. These books are brought from Cairo by the
+young Fakys of Damer themselves, many of whom go to study there in
+the mosque El Azher, or in the great mosque at Mekka, where they
+remain for three or four years, living during that time principally
+upon alms and stipends. In the schools at Damer they teach the true
+reading of the Koran, and deliver lectures on the Tefsyn
+(explanations of the Koran), and on the Touhyd, or the nature of
+God, and his divine attributes. They have a large well built
+mosque, but without a minaret; it rests upon arches built of
+bricks, and the floor is covered with fine sand. This is the
+coolest spot in Damer, and much resorted to by strangers to pass a
+few hours in sleep after the mid-day prayers. Around an open place
+adjoining the mosque are a number of school-rooms. Many Fakys have
+small chapels near their own houses, but the Friday’s prayers are
+always performed in the great mosque. The chief Fakys live with
+great ostentation of sanctity, and the Faky el Kebír leads the life
+of a hermit; he occupies a small building in the midst of a large
+square in the town. One part of this building is a chapel, and the
+other a room about twelve feet square, in which he constantly
+resides day and night, without any attendants, and separated from
+his own family. He lives upon what his friends or disciples send
+him for breakfast and supper. About three o’clock in the afternoon
+he quits his chamber, after having been shut up all the morning,
+occupied in reading, and takes his seat upon a large stone bench
+before the building. He is here joined by all his fraternity, and
+business is then transacted until long after sun-set. I went once
+to kiss his hands, and found him a venerable figure, entirely
+wrapped up in a white cloke. He asked me from whence I came, in
+what<span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">[268]</span> school I had
+learnt to read, and what books I had read; and he seemed satisfied
+with my answers. Near him sat a Moggrebyn Shikh, a native of
+Mekinéz, who had come from Mekka, to serve as his scribe, and who
+transacted all the public business. I was told that this person had
+found means to amass a large sum of money.</p>
+
+<p>The affairs of this little hierarchical state appear to be
+conducted with great prudence. All its neighbours testify much
+respect for the Fakys; the treacherous Bisharein even, are so
+completely kept in awe by them, that they have never been known to
+hurt any of the people of Damer when travelling from thence across
+the mountains to Souakin. They particularly fear the power of the
+Fakys to deprive them of rain, and thus to cause the death of their
+flocks. Caravans pass occasionally from Damer to Souakin, for many
+of the Fakys are traders. On the outside of the town we found
+encampments of Bisharein, and Djaalein, who had come to sell their
+sheep. There are several public wells in the town, as well as at
+some distance along the roads leading to it.</p>
+
+<p>The principal trade of Damer is with Dóngola and Shendy; with
+Berber there is little intercourse, except by means of the Egyptian
+caravans passing that way. There is a manufacture of coarse cotton
+stuffs in imitation of the Dammour of Sennaar, and most of the
+articles of the Egyptian trade are found in the warehouses of the
+Damer merchants. There is no Souk, or daily market, but there is a
+weekly one, in which every merchant exposes his goods; the sales of
+cattle are said to be considerable, and the Damer mats, made of
+Doum leaves, are greatly in demand throughout the neighbouring
+country. In places like Damer, where there is no daily market, and
+where nothing whatever is sold publicly except on the weekly market
+day, the traveller finds it very troublesome to buy the articles of
+small value which he may be in need of. I wanted a few measures of
+Dhourra for my ass,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">[269]</span>
+but there being no metal currency less than a dollar, which would
+have purchased a larger quantity than I could have carried with me,
+I was under the necessity of imitating my companions, and went from
+house to house with some strings of beads in my hands, offering
+them for sale at about four handfuls of Dhourra for each bead. I
+gained at this rate about sixty per cent. above the prime cost, and
+had at the same time an opportunity of entering many private
+houses. I was somewhat surprised to find that, notwithstanding the
+austerity of the Fakys, a great number of Bouza shops, and houses
+of debauchery, were established all over the town. I repeated these
+walks every day during our stay at Damer. One afternoon, while
+crying my beads for sale, I was accosted by a Faky, who asked me if
+I could read. On answering in the affirmative, he desired me to
+follow him to a place where, he said, I might expect to get a good
+dinner. He then led me to a house where I found a great number of
+people collected to celebrate the memory of some relative lately
+deceased. Several Fakys were reading the Koran in a low tone of
+voice. A great Faky afterwards came in, whose arrival was the
+signal for reciting the Koran in loud songs, in the manner
+customary in the east, in which I joined them. This was continued
+for about half an hour, until dinner was brought in, which was very
+plentiful, as a cow had been killed upon the occasion. After a
+hearty meal, we recommenced our reading. One of the Shikhs produced
+a basket full of white pebbles, over which several prayers were
+read. These pebbles were destined to be strewed over the tomb of
+the deceased in the manner which I had often observed upon tombs
+freshly made. Upon my enquiries concerning this custom, which I
+confessed to have never before seen practised in any Mohammedan
+country, the Faky answered that it was a mere meritorious action,
+that there was no absolute necessity for it, but that it was
+thought<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">[270]</span> that the
+soul of the deceased, when hereafter visiting the tomb, might be
+glad to find these pebbles, in order to use them as beads in
+addressing its prayers to the Creator.<a id="FNanchor_109"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_109">[19]</a> When the reading was over, the women
+began to sing and howl. I then left the room, and on taking my
+departure my kind host put some bones of roasted meat in my hand,
+to serve for my supper.</p>
+
+<p>The ladies of Damer adorn their sitting rooms with a number of
+large wooden bowls or dishes hung against the walls like so many
+pictures. The floor is covered with fine mats of various designs
+and colours, for the art of dying the Doum leaves appears to be
+known here. I have likewise seen ostrich eggs, and black ostrich
+feathers put up as ornaments on the wall, over the door.</p>
+
+<p>On the west bank of the river, opposite the town, is a small
+village, called Damer el Gharby (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دامر الغربي</span>), or the Western Damer. The communication
+between the two places is kept up by ferry-boats, of the rudest
+workmanship, consisting merely of the excavated trunk of a large
+Nebek tree.</p>
+
+<p>The cultivation of the soil is much more attended to at Damer,
+than in any other place from Dóngola to Shendy. Artificial
+irrigation is carried on by numerous water-wheels, turned by cows,
+like those used in Egypt; this custom enables the cultivators to
+obtain two crops every year. Damer suffered less during the last
+famine than any of the neighbouring countries; but great numbers
+died of the small-pox. The principal produce of the soil is
+Dhourra; some wheat is sown, but not for exportation; it serves
+only for the private consumption of the great Fakys, who have
+learnt the use of this luxury in Egypt. Some Bamyes are cultivated,
+and a considerable quantity of red pepper (Sheteyta <span class="arabic" lang="ar">شطيطه</span>). Of the latter a part is exported,
+and the people are immoderately fond of it for the
+seasoning<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">[271]</span> of their
+dishes. The district produces cotton plentifully, and a little
+tobacco of the worst kind, for the Bisharye market. The Fakys
+themselves never smoke. I thought the cattle looked finer and
+better fed than those of Berber. Few horses are kept, but asses are
+numerous. Our traders bought some camels, and disposed of some of
+their merchandize. No passage duties are paid to the Fakys, whose
+principal income arises from agriculture and trade. This is the
+reason why Damer flourishes, caravans being never averse from
+staying here a few days. Our landlord was very reasonable in his
+demands, and our whole party, myself included, left the town well
+satisfied with its inhabitants. The Ababde sent some loaves of
+sugar to the Faky el Kebír, but quite as a voluntary donation.</p>
+
+<p><em>April 15th.</em> We set out early in the morning, being
+accompanied by two Fakys, who were to serve as guards as far as the
+limits of the country of Shendy. The road is dangerous, and the
+inhabitants upon it are robbers; but such is the fear entertained
+of the Fakys of Damer, that the mere sight of them marching unarmed
+at the head of the caravan was sufficient to inspire the country
+people with the greatest respect; they often came, as we passed
+along, to kiss the Fakys hands, and then retired. It would require
+an armed force to pass here, without the aid of some of these
+religious men. Caravans from the south halt on the northern
+frontier of Shendy, until a Faky arrives from Damer to accompany
+them.</p>
+
+<p>Our companions were all under great apprehensions, in setting
+out from Damer, notwithstanding the presence of our guides. We kept
+close together, lest any stragglers should be cut off in the woods
+through which the road lies. I carried my gun in my hand, which I
+knew would frighten a host of robbers, but, according to my
+constant practice in travelling, I did not think it necessary
+to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">[272]</span> load it. The
+principal of the Daraou traders rode up to me, and knowing the gun
+to be unloaded, ordered me, in a very peremptory tone, to put in a
+ball; upon my refusing a sharp dispute arose; he called me at last
+a cowardly rascal (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">معرّص
+خّواق</span>), who was unworthy of wearing arms; “that may be
+true,” I replied, “but I am at least accustomed to wear them, while
+you peasants find a stick or a scithe more suited to your hands
+than a sword.” His pride was so much hurt by this reply, that he
+struck me a blow with his stick across the shoulders which almost
+levelled me to the ground; I warded off a second blow with my gun,
+and was going to return it with the butt end, when our companions
+leapt in between us, and wrested the gun from me, which, after a
+moment’s reflection, I was glad of, for if I had struck the man, I
+should have wounded him, and it would then have become a serious
+business. I vented my anger in heavy curses upon my aggressor, who
+was blamed by every body, and especially by the Ababdes, who
+declared that they would resent any further insult offered to me.
+The bustle which this affair occasioned, together with our fears of
+robbers, which did not permit me to quit the caravan, prevented me
+from taking my notes as fully as usual. On leaving Damer we entered
+a wood of Sellam trees, and continued our route at a little
+distance from the arable ground. Near the river we saw several
+small villages and hamlets, among clusters of Doum trees; they are
+inhabited by the Arabs Mekaberab (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مكابراب</span>),<a id="FNanchor_110"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_110">[20]</a> who were formerly tributary to the chiefs of
+Shendy, but who have long since asserted their freedom, and now
+live partly upon the produce of their fields, and partly by
+robbery; they are at war with all their neighbours, and having
+acquired a reputation for superior valour, are much dreaded by
+them. Travellers<span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">[273]</span>
+unaccompanied by one or more Fakys from Damer, are sure of being
+stripped by them.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of six hours from Damer we quitted the valley of the
+Nile, and made a short cut over sand hills, which brought us, after
+a march of nine hours, to Hawaya (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حوايه</span>), a village which forms at present the northern
+frontier of the territory of Shendy. Shendy extends <i>de jure</i>
+as far as the river Mogren, including Damer; but we have already
+seen that the Fokaha of Damer are quite independent. It was a
+beautiful evening, after a very hot day; and we all went to bathe
+in the river, the bed of which, near the shore, I found covered
+with pebbles. We encamped in an open square in the midst of the
+village, and understanding it to be a safe place, I took some beads
+to exchange for bread in the village. After a long and fruitless
+search, I was met by some men who invited me to go home with them,
+saying that their wives would take the beads. I followed them,
+until we reached a narrow unfrequented lane, when they turned short
+upon me, snatched away the beads, tore off my cap, and then finding
+that unarmed as I was I still made some resistance, they drew their
+swords. I now took to my heels, and rejoined my companions, who
+laughed at my misfortunes. They advised me to go to the Shikh of
+the village, who, they said, would find out the robbers. I met with
+the Shikh late at night in a Bouza hut, surrounded by a drunken
+party. Having described the persons of the thieves, the beads and
+cap were soon discovered, and returned to me. The Shikh then
+insisted upon my taking a merry cup with him, and, upon my refusal,
+he accompanied me back to our people, when I was at last obliged to
+pay him, as a compliment, twice the value of the stolen goods. I
+mention this anecdote to show how small a chance a single traveller
+has of passing through this country without being stripped.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">[274]</span><em>April
+16th.</em> After a march of four hours from Hawaya we came to the
+village of Gabaty (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قباتي</span>).
+Here, as in the higher parts of Upper Egypt, all the larger
+villages are built on the declivity of the hills of the desert, and
+at some distance from the soil cultivated by their inhabitants. At
+Gabaty I saw a very uncommon building, which covered the tomb of a
+saint; it is in the form of a<img alt="" class="float-left iw7" src="images/i33.jpg" id="i33"> well rounded cone, about thirty
+feet in height, resting upon a square substructure five or six feet
+high, in which is a low door. The whole is built of sun-burnt
+bricks. I found the entrance shut, and was told that it was opened
+on Fridays only. At a distance this tomb had the exact appearance
+of a pyramid, and I could not help thinking that such buildings
+might have been used as sepulchres from the earliest times by the
+Ethiopians, and might have given origin to the stupendous tombs of
+Memphis. I observed a similar but smaller structure at Shendy, but
+I met with them nowhere else, although every village of note has
+some tombs of revered saints or Shikhs.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond Gabaty we rode alternately through the arable plain, and
+the sandy hills. The former, where it is broadest, appears to be
+about four miles in breadth, from the hills to the river. The
+harvest had long been collected, but we saw the whole plain still
+full of Dhourra stalks, not thickly crowded together as in Egypt,
+but at wide intervals asunder, evidently shewing a great neglect of
+cultivation. In the fields are many Nebek trees, and the borders of
+the desert are everywhere overgrown with Oshour. We passed several
+hamlets in the hills on our left; and at the end of ten hours, late
+in the evening, reached Djebail (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جبيل</span>), a large village in the hills, with several small
+mosques, and good buildings. It is governed by a relative of the
+Mek of Shendy, whose district extends as far as Hawaya. We encamped
+upon a piece<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">[275]</span> of
+open ground at the back of the village. After we had retired to
+rest we were awakened by the servants of the principal Faky of the
+place, who sent us a plentiful supper. During this day’s march we
+often met passengers on the road, riding, for the most part, upon
+asses, and also a small caravan from Shendy, on its way to Berber.
+I observed several ancient dikes of earth, without any appearance
+of stone or brick in them, and many canals for the purpose of
+irrigating the plain, which were almost filled up with earth, and
+of little or no use. Near Djebail begins a chain of mountains of
+sandstone, running southwards, parallel with the river.</p>
+
+<p><em>April 17th.</em> At the end of two hours from Djebail, in
+crossing the arable soil, we passed low mounds consisting of
+rubbish, and red burnt bricks; they were about eighty paces in
+length, and extended quite across the arable soil, for at least one
+mile eastwards, turning, as I thought, towards their extremity, a
+little more to the south. The bricks are of a very rude make, much
+coarser than those now in use in Egypt. The mounds have the
+appearance of having served as a wall, although but little remains
+by which to form a judgment. Both on the northern and southern side
+we passed some foundations of buildings, of moderate size,
+constructed of hewn stones. These were the only remains of
+antiquity I could discover; nor could I see any stones scattered
+amongst the mounds of rubbish, as far, at least, as my sight could
+reach. A closer examination might, perhaps, have led to some more
+interesting discoveries, but I was in the company of the caravan,
+and had the wonders of Thebes been placed on the road, I should not
+have been able to examine them. At the end of three hours we came
+to Dawa (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">داوه</span>), a small
+village. The hills here take a direction more to the east, and
+leave a plain of at least ten miles in breadth, luxuriantly covered
+with wild plants, mixed with all the species of the thorny acacias,
+and where are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">[276]</span> a
+great number of dispersed huts and hamlets. The Arabs Djaalein here
+pasture their numerous herds of cows, camels, and sheep. They have
+also a few water-wheels, and grow considerable quantities of
+onions, with which they supply the Shendy market. Their huts are
+made of mats; I entered several of them, but could not get a drop
+of milk without paying for it in Dhourra. The road across the plain
+was much entangled with weeds, and overhanging branches of acacia,
+which rendered the passage somewhat troublesome to our loaded
+camels.</p>
+
+<p>We rode for two or three hours in this fertile district, and
+then entered again upon a sandy plain overgrown with large Syale
+trees, where we stopped during the noontide hours, on the high
+banks of the river, and watered our camels. Large flocks of storks
+passed over our heads to the northward. At the end of seven hours
+from our setting out in the morning we reached the extremity of the
+sandy plain, where commences a tract called Boeydha (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بويضه</span>), less extensive, but equally
+fertile with the plain preceding. It contains many small hamlets,
+in which the houses consist generally of one room only, serving for
+all purposes. Here are the salt-works which supply the whole
+country as far as Sennaar with salt. The earth, which for several
+miles round is strongly impregnated with salt, is collected by the
+Arabs in heaps upon the side of the road. The salt is separated
+from the earth by boiling in large earthen vessels, and the saline
+part is then boiled a second time, in smaller vessels. The salt is
+afterwards formed into small round cakes about a foot in diameter,
+and three inches in thickness; it is perfectly white, and has much
+the appearance of rock salt. About a dozen cakes are packed
+together in a basket; four baskets make a camel’s load. This salt
+constitutes a considerable branch of the Shendy trade. The Sennaar
+merchants buy it in great quantities for the Abyssinian markets,
+and exchange<span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">[277]</span> it in
+the mountains about Ras el Fil, for slaves and gold. The works are
+the property of the Mek of Shendy: there were about twenty boilers
+on the fire when I passed.</p>
+
+<p>Just beyond the plain of Boeydha, where the road again enters a
+barren sandy desert, stands a tall date-tree, the only one of its
+species met with hereabouts, for no dates are grown anywhere from
+Dóngola to Sennaar. The merchants hail this tree as a beacon which
+marks the successful termination of their journey. Several people
+of Shendy were waiting for us, to salute their acquaintances, and
+take a look at the loads. As traders never enter Shendy in the day
+time, we halted till sun-set, and then proceeded slowly towards the
+town, which we reached after about nine hours march from our
+departure from Djebail.</p>
+
+<p><em>At Shendy from April 17th to May 17th.</em> We entered a
+large house belonging to the friends of the Ababdes, situated on
+the skirts of the town, towards the desert; but the next morning
+the Mek sent one of his slaves to tell us, that he wanted that
+house himself for one of his Abyssinian female slaves, who was to
+be inoculated with the small-pox, and whom he wished to pass the
+time of her illness in an open, airy, and insulated place. He
+ordered a house to be prepared for us in the middle of the town,
+and we took possession of it the next day; the owner was absent,
+but his wife gave us a civil reception.</p>
+
+<p>Next to Sennaar, and Cobbé (in Darfour), Shendy is the largest
+town in eastern Soudan, and larger, according to the report of the
+merchants, than the capitals of Dóngola and of Kordofan. It
+consists of several quarters, divided from each other by public
+places, or markets, and it contains altogether from eight hundred
+to a thousand houses. It is built upon the sandy plain, at about
+half an hour’s walk from the river; its houses are similar to those
+of Berber; but it contains a greater number of large buildings, and
+fewer<span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">[278]</span> ruins. The
+houses seldom form any regular street, but are spread over the
+plain in great disorder. I nowhere saw any walls of burnt bricks.
+The houses of the chief, and those of his relatives, contain
+court-yards twenty feet square, inclosed by high walls, and this is
+the general description of the habitations of Shendy. The
+government is in the hands of the Mek; the name of the present
+chief is Nimr (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نِمر</span>), i. e.
+Tiger. The reigning family is of the same tribe as that which now
+occupies the throne of Sennaar, namely the Wold Adjib(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ولد عجيب</span>), which, as far as I could
+understand, is a branch of the Funnye. The father of Nimr was an
+Arab of the tribe of Djaalein, but his mother was of the royal
+blood of Wold Adjib; and thus it appears that women have a right to
+the succession. This agrees with the narrative of Bruce, who found
+at Shendy a woman upon the throne, whom he calls Sittina (an Arabic
+word meaning our Lady). The Mek of Shendy, like the Mek of Berber,
+is subject to Sennaar; but, excepting the purchase money paid for
+his government, on his accession, and occasional presents to the
+king and vizier<a id="FNanchor_111"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_111">[21]</a> of Sennaar, he is entirely independent, and
+governs his district, which extends about two days journeys farther
+to the south, quite at his own pleasure.</p>
+
+<p>Before the arrival of the Mamelouks in Dóngola Mek Nimr had been
+for many years in continual warfare with the Arabs Sheygya, who had
+killed several of his relatives in battle, and, by making inroads
+into his dominions with large parties of horsemen, had repeatedly
+laid waste the whole western bank of the river. The Sheygya made
+peace with him, in order more effectually to oppose the Mamelouks,
+when his own brother, to whom the command of the western bank had
+been entrusted, declared against him, and they have now carried on
+war for several years, with little<span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">[279]</span> success or loss on either side, as they are
+separated from each other by the river, and can never pass it but
+in small parties.</p>
+
+<p>The government of Shendy is much to be preferred to that of
+Berber: the full authority of the Mek is not thwarted by the
+influence of powerful families, which in these countries tends only
+to insecurity, nor has he adopted that system of rapacity which
+makes Berber so justly dreaded by strangers. His absolute power is
+owing to the diversity of Arab tribes inhabiting Shendy, none of
+which is strong enough to cope with his own family and its numerous
+branches. The largest of these tribes are the Nimrab, Nayfab, and
+Djaalein, the greater part of whom still lead the Bedouin life. The
+most respectable class of the inhabitants of Shendy are the
+merchants, amongst whom are great numbers of foreign settlers from
+Sennaar, Kordofan, Darfour, and Dóngola: the last are the most
+numerous, and they occupy an entire quarter of the town, but their
+nation is less esteemed than any other. They are reproached with
+inhospitality, and their avarice has become proverbial; the broker
+business, which is almost exclusively in their hands, has added to
+the odium of their name, so that an Arab of Shendy considers it as
+an insult to be called a Dongoláwy, a name here considered as
+equivalent to that of Jew in Europe.</p>
+
+<p>Commerce flourishes at Shendy because the Mek does not extort
+any taxes from the merchants, which many people assured me he dared
+not do from his fear of the vizier of Sennaar. I am not able to
+judge how far this may be true; but the fact is, that caravans pay
+nothing whatever by way of duty; they generally make up a small
+present to the Mek, in order to enjoy his particular protection,
+and add something further for one of his brothers, who is a
+principal man in the place. Our party of Ababdes sent him a small
+parcel of soap and sugar, of which my quota amounted to half a
+dollar. I did not hear of any subordinate offices in
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">[280]</span> government of
+Shendy, and the Mek seems to unite all the branches of authority in
+his own person. His relatives are the governors of villages; and
+his court consists of half a dozen police officers, a writer, an
+Imam, a treasurer, and a body guard, formed principally of slaves.
+The character of the people is much the same as that of the
+inhabitants of Berber. They are kept in some order, it is true, by
+the Mek; but wickedness and injustice govern all their conduct, for
+they know that the law can do little more than endeavour to prevent
+crimes, and that it very seldom punishes them. Nightly robbers,
+drunken people who have assaulted strangers, thieves detected in
+the market, &amp;c. &amp;c. are often carried before the Mek, but
+he is generally satisfied with imprisoning them for two or three
+days; and I did not hear a single instance of his having ordered
+any person to be put to death, or even flogged, although such
+crimes as I have mentioned were committed daily during my stay at
+Shendy. The delinquents were permitted to return quietly to their
+homes, on paying a small fine to the Mek and his people. I was told
+that at Kordofan thieves are always punished with death.</p>
+
+<p>Debauchery and drunkenness are as fashionable here as at Berber;
+the latter, I think, is even more common. No night passed without
+my hearing the loud songs of some Bouza meeting, though our
+quarter, that of the Dongoláwy, who are too avaricious to be
+addicted to these vices, was one of the quietest. At Berber public
+women were constantly seen in the street; at Shendy I very seldom
+met any of them, though within the inclosures of the houses they
+are almost as numerous as at Berber.</p>
+
+<p>The dress, habits, and manners of the inhabitants of Shendy are
+the same as those of the places last described, and appear to
+prevail as far as Darfour, and Sennaar. I observed more well
+dressed people at Shendy than at Berber, and clean linen was much
+oftener seen. Gold being a very current article in the Shendy
+market,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">[281]</span> the women
+have more frequently golden rings at their noses and ears than
+those of Berber; the people also possess more wealth. It is not
+uncommon to see a family possessed of a dozen slaves, acting as
+servants in the house, and labourers in the field.</p>
+
+<p>The people of Shendy, like those of Berber, are shepherds,
+traders, and husbandmen. Agriculture, however, seems to be little
+thought of by the inhabitants themselves, being chiefly left to the
+Arab peasants of the vicinity; the cultivable soil in the
+neighbourhood of the city is narrow; but to the north and south of
+it are some fine arable plains. Water-wheels are common; they are
+erected generally on those parts of the high banks, which the most
+copious inundations of the river cannot overflow; by means of them
+the cultivators raise one winter crop; but they are too lazy to
+bestow the labour necessary for watering the soil a second or third
+time, as is done in the most elevated parts of Upper Egypt, where
+also the river very seldom rises high enough to overflow the banks.
+Dhourra is the chief produce; Dokhen and wheat are sown in small
+quantities, the former for the consumption of the western traders
+who visit Shendy, the latter almost exclusively for the families of
+the great. Large quantities of onions, some red pepper (brought
+from Kordofan), Bamyes, chick-peas (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حُمّص</span>), Meloukhye, and Tormos,<a id="FNanchor_112"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_112">[22]</a> are always found in the market either
+green or dried. During the inundation some water-melons and
+cucumbers are sown, but for the use only of the Harem of the
+Mek.</p>
+
+<p>The cattle is very fine; and the inhabitants say that their size
+and quality continue to increase, in proportion as you ascend the
+river. I saw no domestic animals that are not common in Egypt.
+Elephants are first met with at Abou Heraze, two or three days to
+the north of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">[282]</span>
+Sennaar; and they have never been known to pass to the northward of
+that district, which is bounded by a chain of mountains six or
+eight hours in breadth, reaching close to the river. I was told
+that tigers are frequently seen in the Wadys east of Shendy. In the
+mountains of Dender, a district towards the Atbara, and six or
+eight journies south-east of Shendy, the giraffa is found (Arabic,
+Zerafa, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">ظرافه</span>, i. e. the
+elegant). It is hunted by the Arabs Shukorein and Kowahel, and is
+highly prized for its skin, of which the strongest bucklers are
+made. I frequently saw mountain-goats of the largest size brought
+to the market of Shendy; they have long horns bending to the middle
+of the back; their flesh is esteemed a great dainty. They call them
+Areal (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">آريَل</span>), a name given
+in Syria to the red deer. In Upper Egypt they are called Teytal
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تيتل</span>), and in Syria Beden
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بَدَن</span>). They are caught by
+the Djaalein Bedouins in nooses, in the same manner as they catch
+ostriches, which are also very common in this neighbourhood. The
+ostrich-feathers however are inferior to those of the western
+deserts. Those most esteemed in Egypt are from Kordofan and
+Darfour, which the caravans from the latter place bring to Siout.
+The Djaalein peasants bring the feathers to the market in bundles,
+good and bad together, and exchange them for Dhourra. Their price,
+when I was at Shendy, was about one-tenth of what they would bring
+at Cairo, where the best kinds, in 1812, sold at two hundred and
+eighty piastres per pound. The Pasha of Egypt has lately included
+them among the articles monopolised by him<a id="FNanchor_113"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_113">[23]</a>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">[283]</span>The hippopotamus
+(in Arabic Farass el Bahhr, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">فَرَص
+البحر</span>, or Barnick, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">برنيق</span>), is not common at Shendy, though it occasionally
+makes its appearance there; during my stay there was one in the
+river in the vicinity of Boeydha, which made great ravages in the
+fields. It never rose above water in the day-time, but came on
+shore in the night, and destroyed as much by the treading of its
+enormous feet, as it did by its voracity; the people have no means
+of killing them. At Sennaar, where hippopotami are numerous, they
+are caught in trenches, slightly covered with reeds, into which
+they fall during their nightly excursions. It is generally said
+that no musket ball can bring them to the ground, unless they are
+hit in the vulnerable spot, which is over the ear. The whips called
+Korbadj (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كرباج</span>), which are
+formed of their skins, are made at Sennaar, and on the Nile, above
+that place, immediately after being taken off, the skin is cut into
+narrow strips, about five or six feet in length, gradually tapering
+to a point: each strip is then rolled up, so that the edges unite,
+and form a pipe, in which state it is tied fast and left to dry in
+the sun. In order to render these whips pliable, they must be
+rubbed with butter or grease. At Shendy they are sold at the rate
+of twelve or sixteen for a Spanish dollar; in Egypt, where they are
+in general use, and the dread of every servant and peasant, they
+are worth from half a dollar, to a dollar each. In colder climates,
+even in Syria, they become brittle, crack, and lose their
+elasticity.</p>
+
+<p>Crocodiles are very numerous about Shendy. I have generally
+remarked that these animals inhabit particular parts of the Nile,
+from whence they seldom appear to move; thus, in Lower
+Egypt,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">[284]</span> they have
+entirely disappeared, although no reasonable cause can be assigned
+for their not descending the river. In Upper Egypt, the
+neighbourhood of Akhmim, Dendera, Orment, and Edfou, are at present
+the favourite haunts of the crocodile, while few are ever seen in
+the intermediate parts of the river. The same is the case in
+different parts of Nubia towards Dóngola. At Berber nobody is
+afraid of encountering crocodiles in the river, and we bathed there
+very often, swimming out into the midst of the stream. At Shendy,
+on the contrary, they are greatly dreaded; the Arabs and the slaves
+and females, who repair to the shore of the river near the town
+every morning and evening to wash their linen, and fill their
+water-skins for the supply of the town, are obliged to be
+continually on the alert, and such as bathe take care not to
+proceed to any great distance into the river. I was several times
+present when a crocodile made its appearance, and witnessed the
+terror it inspired; the crowd all quickly retiring up the beach.
+During my stay at Shendy a man who had been advised to bathe in the
+river, after having escaped the small-pox, was seized and killed by
+one of these animals. At Sennaar crocodiles are often brought to
+market, and their flesh is publicly sold there. I once tasted some
+of the meat at Esne, in Upper Egypt; it is of a dirty white colour,
+not unlike young veal, with a slight fishy smell; the animal had
+been caught by some fishermen in a strong net, and was above twelve
+feet in length. The Governor of Esne ordered it to be brought into
+his court yard, where more than an hundred balls were fired against
+it without effect, till it was thrown upon its back, and the
+contents of a small swivel discharged at its belly, the skin of
+which is much softer than that of the back. Fish are very seldom
+caught by the Arabs of Shendy. Nets appear to be unknown, but
+children often amuse themselves in angling with hooked nails.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">[285]</span>The produce of
+the fields of Shendy and its neighbourhood is not sufficient for
+the supply of the population, the wants of which are much increased
+by the continual arrival of caravans. Dhourra is imported
+principally from Abou Heraze, in the route to Sennaar. A caravan of
+more than three hundred camels arrived from thence with Dhourra
+during my stay at Shendy, and the price, which, on our arrival, was
+at the rate of one dollar for twelve measures, fell to twenty
+measures per dollar. The price of grain varies almost daily, the
+market being affected by the arrival of every caravan of traders,
+who always buy up a considerable quantity for the food of the
+slaves and camels. The Mek also monopolizes the corn-trade as much
+as he can. At Abou Heraze and Sennaar, Dhourra is said to be in
+great plenty; forty measures being sold for a dollar. This grain is
+of the same shape and size as that of Shendy and Upper Egypt; but
+it is of an ash gray colour; it is said to be less nourishing, and
+of course is less esteemed than the other.</p>
+
+<p>Horses are more numerous here than at Berber. The Mek, it is
+said, can raise within Shendy itself from two to three hundred
+horsemen. According to the custom of the Eastern Arabs, the
+Djaalein Bedouins ride mares in preference to stallions; but the
+latter are preferred by the inhabitants of the town. The Mek’s
+brother, Ras Saad ed Dyn (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سعد
+الدين</span>), had a horse for which he had given in the southern
+districts thirteen slaves; it surpassed in beauty any other horse I
+ever remember to have seen. At a public festival on the occasion of
+the circumcision of one of Mek Nimr’s sons, all the horsemen of
+Shendy met, and accompanied the family of the chief through the
+town, their horses prancing about. They appeared to me but very
+indifferent horsemen; none attempted any of the manœuvres for which
+the Mamelouks are so famous; they contented themselves with
+gallopping backwards and forwards; nor did I see one bold rider
+amongst them. It is in this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">[286]</span> cavalry, however, that the Mek places his
+chief strength, and it decides the fate of all the battles he is
+obliged to fight with his enemies. The saddles, and bridles, as
+well as the stirrups, in which they place the great toe only, are
+the same as those used at Berber and by the Arabs Sheygya, who
+appear to be as celebrated for their horsemanship in this country
+as the Mamelouks once were in Turkey. Mek Nimr has about twenty
+firelocks, which he has either bought or taken from Egyptian
+traders; with these he arms his favourite slaves, but few of them
+have courage sufficient to fire them off, and there are none who
+dare take an aim by placing the gun against the shoulder. The sight
+of it alone generally frightens the enemy, and so far it fully
+answers their purpose, for it is always the wish of both parties to
+finish the battle with as little bloodshed as possible, because the
+law of retaliation is in full force amongst these Arabs. Several of
+Mek Nimr’s musquets are either broken, or so much rusted, as to
+make them unserviceable, and nobody could be found to clean and
+mend them. Having been seen one day cleaning my gun, I was supposed
+to be skilful in this art, and serious proposals were made to me,
+to enter into the Mek’s service as gunsmith. He offered me one male
+and two female slaves, and as much Dhourra as I might want for
+their maintenance; and it was with difficulty that I could persuade
+the slaves who made me the proposal in the name of their master,
+that I knew nothing of the business of a gunsmith. Travellers in
+these countries ought to avoid shewing their capacity in the most
+trifling things that may be of use or afford pleasure to the
+chiefs, who will endeavour to force them into their service. Not
+having succeeded in prevailing upon me to remain, the Mek wished at
+least to have my gun. He sent for it, and kept it for several days;
+and upon my urgent entreaties to have it returned to me, he sent me
+four Spanish dollars, ordering his slaves at the same time to carry
+me<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">[287]</span> several dishes
+of bread and meat from his own kitchen. Upon complaining to some of
+the inhabitants of this treatment, they replied, that having now
+eaten of the Mek’s food I had become his friend, and that it would
+therefore be a disgrace to me to make any difficulty in parting
+with my gun. I was very sorry to lose it, especially when I
+considered in what countries I still intended to travel; but in my
+present circumstances four dollars were not to be despised. Seeing
+no chance therefore of either getting back my gun, or obtaining a
+higher price for it, I accepted the Mek’s four dollars with many
+professions of thanks.</p>
+
+<p>It will appear very singular that fire-arms are not more
+frequently met with here, as they may so easily be imported. But
+the fact is, that traders are afraid to carry them, lest they
+should excite the cupidity of some or other of the chiefs; and it
+is not to be supposed, that until they are more numerous, they can
+be taken to market like other goods, or be paid for at a regular
+price. To the country people, who seldom visit the towns where
+traders make any stay, a musquet is an object of the greatest
+terror, and will frighten away dozens of them. A Djaalein Arab, who
+had some ostrich feathers to sell, came one day to the house where
+I lodged, to barter with my companions for his feathers. The moment
+he espied my gun standing in the corner of the room, he got up, and
+desired it might be removed, for that he did not like to remain
+near so deadly an instrument.</p>
+
+<p>The envoy whom the Pasha of Egypt sent to Sennaar, related, upon
+his return, that the king exhibited one day a review of cavalry
+before him, when the envoy desired to be permitted to shew the
+Turkish artillery exercise, he having with him two small
+field-pieces mounted on camels, and three soldiers. When they began
+to fire, the greater part of the people fled, and many threw
+themselves on the ground, crying out for help. I never saw
+a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">[288]</span> man of these
+countries who dared touch my gun, unless he had been either in
+Egypt or Arabia; and the young men belonging to our caravan
+frequently got rid of troublesome visitors by laying hold of it,
+and saying that they were going to fire it off. If such is the case
+in this part of the continent, which has so much intercourse with
+the Turkish dominions, what must be the degree of surprise and
+terror upon first witnessing the effect of fire-arms among the
+people farther removed in the interior, where such instruments have
+never been seen, and scarcely heard of. This is one of the reasons
+which lead me to believe that with prudence and perseverance a very
+small body of European soldiers might make their way across these
+countries without opposition. Three hundred, for instance, well
+inured to a tropical climate, might, I am persuaded, penetrate very
+far into Eastern Africa. From Assouan to Sennaar they certainly
+would have little to apprehend. If 250 miserable Mamelouks
+conquered and kept possession of Dóngola, against the joint efforts
+of the Dongoláwy and the Sheygya, a body of experienced Europeans
+could not have much to fear from these Africans, divided as they
+are into small principalities, which possess no union among one
+another. The difficulties arising from fatigue, privation, and
+climate, might be obviated by patience and prudence; by following
+the banks of the rivers, where provisions and camels may be always
+procured, and, by selecting salubrious and elevated spots, wherein
+to pass the rainy season, which moreover has none of those dreadful
+effects experienced in the western countries of Africa. Single
+individuals attempting to make discoveries in the interior of this
+continent, through districts unfrequented by northern traders,
+will, I fear, always fall victims to their zeal and honourable
+ambition; and if the sources of the Bahr el Abyadh are ever to be
+discovered, it must be by an armed force. England has, by her
+different voyages of discovery, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">[289]</span> her missions to explore distant countries,
+far surpassed all the nations of Europe: and a successful
+expedition through the interior of the African continent is alone
+wanting to render her triumph complete.</p>
+
+<p>Shendy has a daily, and one large weekly market, which is
+frequented by all the surrounding Arabs. The common currency is the
+same as that at Berber, viz. Dhourra and Dammour. Slaves and camels
+are generally bought with dollars, or whole parties of slaves are
+bartered for Egyptian and Souakin merchandize. Of dollars those
+only are current that are coined in Spain. They are called Abou
+Medfaa (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابو مدفع</span>), from
+having the supposed figure of a gun on the reverse, or Abou Amoud
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابو عمود</span>), from the columns:
+none pass current but those with the inscription Carolus IIII.,
+which they term Reyal Abou Areyaa (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ريال ابو اريع</span>), and these numerals, or lines, must be
+visible upon the dollar to make it pass at its full value. They say
+that the dollars with Carolus III. must be of less value, because
+they have only three lines, whence they are estimated at one-sixth
+below the real value. Those coined under the Ferdinands lose
+one-third. Austrian dollars are not taken at all. During my stay at
+Shendy, I found a blacksmith secretly employed in adding an I to
+the dollars of Charles III., for which he received two measures of
+Dhourra per dollar. This distinction of the numerals, it is said,
+was first made by the Bedouins; as it is now known amongst the
+merchants, little inconvenience arises from it. Gold coins have no
+currency; but pure gold, in small pieces, or lumps, or ear-rings,
+can always be procured from the Sennaar merchants at the market
+price. I never saw any gold dust in the possession of the traders
+during the whole of my journeys. The Mamelouks had sent one of
+their servants to Shendy with Venetian zecchins, and Turkish gold
+coins, in order to exchange them for dollars; the Egyptians bought
+them up at half their<span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">[290]</span> value, but they afterwards repented of it,
+when they recollected that they might have employed their dollars
+in other purchases, which would have returned them more than fifty
+per cent. profit in Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>The market of Shendy is held upon a wide open space between the
+two principal quarters of the town. Three rows of small shops built
+of mud, one behind the other, in the shape of niches, about six
+feet in length by four feet in depth, and covered by mats, are
+occupied by the more opulent tradesmen, who carry their goods to
+their respective shops every morning, and back to their houses in
+the evening, as these shops have no door by which they can be
+secured. The other merchants sit upon the ground, under a kind of
+shed or awning of mats supported by three long poles, which can be
+turned in all directions, to keep off the sun, so as to afford
+sufficient shade to the seller and his customers at all times of
+the day. Similar awnings are in common use in the Hedjaz. The
+articles usually offered for sale in the daily market are the
+following:</p>
+
+<p><em>Butchers Meat.</em> Cows and camels are slaughtered daily
+for this supply, but sheep very seldom. I did not hear that they
+were in the habit of emasculating the animals destined for the
+shambles. The tallow is sold by particular merchants, who wash and
+cleanse it, in order to make it fit for anointing the hair and
+skin. Close by the butchers shops are sold pieces of roasted fat,
+upon which and a little Bouza, the Bedouins of the desert usually
+dine when they come to the town. The flesh is not weighed, but sold
+in lots of about two or three pounds weight. Weights, in general,
+are only met with in the merchants own houses; in the market they
+use for this purpose stones, by means of which the sellers have
+often an opportunity of cheating. The pound or rotolo is equal to
+that of Cairo.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">[291]</span><em>Milk.</em>
+In the morning both fresh and sour milk is brought in by Bedouin
+girls, and exchanged for Dhourra; they carry with them small wooden
+bowls, one of which the buyer fills with the grain, and receives in
+return three measures of milk; these girls also sell boiled
+chick-pease and boiled Tormous, both of which are a favourite
+breakfast, and called Belileh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بِليله</span>). Bread is never sold in the market; but there
+are many women living in poor huts in different parts of the town,
+who, for a trifling recompense, immediately grind the Dhourra, and
+make it into bread. It is an established custom not to eat in the
+market-place, nor any where in public; it is even considered very
+indecorous for a person to be seen chewing any food beyond the
+threshold of his own house: the reason of this is a superstitious
+notion that a hungry man may observe the eater and may envy the
+morsels he puts into his mouth; for there is no blessing, they say,
+or nutriment in food upon which another has cast an envious eye
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الطعام المحسود مافيه
+بَرَكة</span>). It is for the same reason that in the Levant, the
+meanest peasant never eats his dinner of bread and onions without
+exclaiming (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بِسمللّه</span>)
+Besmillé, and inviting every one who passes by to partake with him;
+and he considers it a great favour if a small portion of his loaf
+is accepted, and as great an insult if his offer is silently
+refused; he expects, according to the custom of the country, that
+the person invited should answer him at least with the word Hannyan
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">هَنّياً</span> <em>prosit</em>), if
+he does not choose to eat with him. In Turkey, this custom is not
+observed; and people may often be seen eating in the market places,
+and before their own houses. I often bought milk early in the
+morning in the market at Shendy, and then retired into a
+neighbouring hut, to drink it; but I was obliged to give the woman
+of the hut a handful of Dhourra for permission to do so.</p>
+
+<p><em>Tobacco.</em>—Retail dealers in tobacco are met with in
+every corner of the market; the people are immoderately addicted to
+the use of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">[292]</span> it, and
+esteem it a luxury; they have not, however, the insolent custom of
+taking the pipes of others, like the people of Berber. The Fokara
+never smoke. The best tobacco comes from Sennaar, and is called
+Taba; when dry, it is of a dark green colour, and has much the same
+taste and appearance as that cultivated in the mountains of Arabia
+Petræa. Pipes, and pipe-heads of clay, are also imported from
+Sennaar. Many persons mix natron with the tobacco before they chew
+it. Snuff is much in use; it is made by reducing the tobacco to a
+fine powder, and mixing about one-third of natron to given
+quantities of it. They use for snuff-boxes small cocoa nut shells
+brought from Sennaar, or very small gourds; like the inhabitants of
+the Hedjaz, they lay the snuff upon the thumb-nail, and never take
+it between the finger and thumb. The Souakin merchants take off
+several camel loads of the tobacco, for the Djedda and Yemen
+markets. Unlike the Arabs and Turks, the people of these countries
+spit at every whiff; and they say that he who does not, will never
+be a hardy bouza drinker. They squirt the spittle through the
+fore-teeth, a custom I should not have thought worth noticing here,
+had it not been a habit so totally different from that of all the
+Musulman smokers I ever saw.</p>
+
+<p>The dealers in tobacco also sell natron, which is brought from
+Kordofan, whither it is imported from Darfour; and salt, from the
+salt mines of Boyedha; but this salt is dear, and the poor use as a
+substitute for it a brine, which they procure by dissolving in hot
+water lumps of a reddish coloured saline earth, of a bitterish,
+disagreeable taste, which they purchase from the Bedouins of the
+eastern desert; it seems to contain ochre and allum. Some of the
+poorer merchants sell dried Bamyes, red pepper, onions, and
+Meloukhye.</p>
+
+<p>The grocers and druggists shops are the most frequented of any;
+there are always half a dozen of them opened, in which are
+sold<span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">[293]</span> cloves
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قرنفل</span>), pepper, cardamoms,
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حَبّ الحال</span>), and tamarinds,
+called here Erdeyb (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عِرديب</span>),
+which are brought from Kordofan, in small cakes. The tamarinds are
+prepared by exposing the pulse together with the beans to the sun
+until they approach putrefaction, in which state they are kneaded
+into cakes. The best sort grows to the N. W. and W. of Darfour,
+between that country and Dar Saleht; but they abound also in the
+neighbourhood of Kordofan. The people of Shendy dissolve the cakes
+in hot water, which they drink as a refreshing beverage. Many camel
+loads of this excellent fruit are carried to Egypt; it is called
+Tamerhindy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تمرهندي</span>), <em>the
+date of India</em>, at Cairo, where it is in part imported from the
+East-Indies. I have seen considerable quantities of it in the hands
+of the Indian merchants, at Djidda, where it is called Homar
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حُمر</span>); but this sort is much
+cheaper than the other, being loose, not made into cakes, and of an
+inferior quality. The Tamerhindy tree grows at Mekka<a id="FNanchor_114"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_114">[24]</a> and in different parts of the Hedjaz.</p>
+
+<p><em>Sandal wood</em> is imported from India, in considerable
+quantities; it forms one of the ingredients of the perfumed paste
+with which they rub the skin; and in cases of sickness the
+patient’s room is perfumed with it by strewing chips of the wood
+upon burning charcoal. It is sold in pieces about six inches in
+length. Much of it is carried to Sennaar.</p>
+
+<p><em>Fenugreek</em> (Helbeh, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">حلبه</span>) is brought from Egypt, and used by the medical
+practitioners in this part of the country as a tonic.</p>
+
+<p>The <em>Liban</em> (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">لبان</span>)
+is a species of gum, collected by the Bedouin Arabs who inhabit the
+deserts between Kordofan and Shilluk, on the road to Sennaar. It is
+said to exude from the stem of a tree in the same manner as gum
+arabic. It is sold in small thin cakes,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">[294]</span> is of a dull gray colour, very brittle, and
+has a strong smell. The country people use it as a perfume, but it
+is dear. It is much in demand for the inhabitants of Taka, and all
+the tribes between the Nile and the Red Sea. It is exported to
+Souakin; the Cairo merchants receive it from Djidda. At Cairo it is
+considered as the frankincense, and is called Incenso. There are
+two sorts, one of which is much coarser than the other. It is also
+imported into Djidda from Souahal, on the eastern coast of Africa,
+beyond Cape Gardafui; and from Abyssinia, by the way of Massouah;
+but this last is of an inferior quality.</p>
+
+<p><em>Gum arabic</em> is sold in small quantities in the markets
+of Shendy; but loads of it may always be had of the Sennaar or
+Kordofan merchants; that of which the fine white colour causes it
+to be most esteemed comes from Kordofan, from the districts
+inhabited by the Bedouins Fadhel. The trade in gum arabic by this
+route has of late been of little consequence, as the profits
+arising from it are much less than those on slaves and camels; but
+the Darfour caravan continues to import it. It is now, however,
+become scarce and dear in Egypt, and will therefore, probably, be
+again imported in large quantities.</p>
+
+<p><em>Shishm</em> (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ششم</span>), a
+small grain of the size and shape of the smallest lentils, of a
+deep black, shining colour, is imported from Darfour. It is
+pulverised and rubbed into the eyelids for complaints of the eyes.
+The Darfour caravans carry large quantities of this grain to Egypt,
+where it is much more in request than in the southern countries;
+there it is in general use amongst all classes, rather as a
+preserver of the eyes, than as a remedy for ophthalmia. It
+certainly communicates a refreshing coolness to the eye. I did not
+understand that any of it was exported from Egypt.</p>
+
+<p><em>Antimony</em> is sold in large quantities to people from all
+parts, and of all descriptions, to blacken the eyelids. In the open
+country,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">[295]</span> small
+pieces of antimony (Kohhel) often answer the purpose of a currency,
+as the peasants wives will always readily barter for it any thing
+that their house can afford.</p>
+
+<p>A drug called <em>Kerfé</em><a id="FNanchor_115"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_115">[25]</a> (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قرفه</span>),
+i. e. bark, is imported by the western merchants; it is a
+yellow-coloured bark, of considerable thickness, of a fibrous
+texture, and apparently belonging to a shrub, or the smaller
+branches of a tree, being about an inch in diameter. A decoction of
+it is used as an astringent in fever and dysentery; it has a very
+bitter taste. I was told that the tree or shrub from which this
+bark is procured, grows also in the mountains towards Abyssinia, in
+the country of the Shukorye.</p>
+
+<p>I had collected small specimens of the articles above
+enumerated; but I unfortunately lost them through the negligence of
+my companions during the voyage from Souakin to Djidda. Amongst
+them was some of the fruit Allobé, brought from Sennaar and
+Kordofan. In its dry state it is of the size of a pigeon’s egg, of
+a brownish yellow colour, with a large kernel, inveloped in a thin
+fleshy substance, which has a sub-acid, and rather agreeable taste.
+It is eaten as a dainty; and is believed to be a remedy for
+flatulency, of which many people here complain. It is likewise
+called Tamr el berr (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تمر
+البرّ</span>),<a id="FNanchor_116"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_116">[26]</a> or the date of Soudan. The Allobé is said to
+grow on a large tree. The people of Kordofan are extremely fond of
+it. I have seen at Cairo a specimen of a fruit called Zakkoum, from
+the plains of Ramle, in Palestine, which appeared to me to be the
+same as the Allobé.</p>
+
+<p>On the great market days, which are every Friday and Saturday,
+several thousands of people resort to Shendy from the distance of
+three or four days; the greater part of whom bring cattle
+for<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">[296]</span> sale. Judging
+from the individuals I saw in the market, all these Arabs appear to
+be entirely of the same race, excepting only that the true Djaalein
+Bedouins who come from the eastern desert are much fairer-skinned
+than the inhabitants of the banks of the Nile, which arises
+probably from their taking greater care not to mix in concubinage
+with the negro race. I was much struck with the physiognomy of many
+of these Djaaleins, who had exactly the countenance and expression
+of features of the Bedouins of eastern Arabia; their beards are
+even shorter, and thinner. Some individuals of a tribe of Djaalein
+who border, to the south, upon the Shukorye, appeared at the market
+with hats on their heads, made of reeds; they were high and
+pointed, with broad brims, and were tied under the chin with a
+leather thong. They are worn both by men and women.</p>
+
+<p>About four or five hundred camels, as many cows, a hundred
+asses, and twenty or thirty horses, were on sale on the great
+market-days. Every merchant then takes his stand in one of the open
+shops, or in the open market, and exposes part of his merchandize;
+for even the richest traders are not ashamed of trafficking in the
+minutest detail. The Egyptian, Souakin, Sennaar, and Kordofan
+merchants form separate corps, in the midst of which is a great
+circle of slaves, thus exposed for sale. The country people bring
+to market mats, baskets, ox hides, and other skins, coarse pottery,
+camel saddles, wooden dishes, and other articles of their own
+manufacture, &amp;c. About a dozen shoe-makers, or rather
+sandal-makers, from the country, work for these two days in the
+market, and will make a pair of sandals at an hour’s notice. The
+works in leather are very prettily done. The leather is tanned with
+the Garadh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قَرَض</span>) or pulse
+of the acacia (Sant <span class="arabic" lang="ar">سَنت</span><a id="FNanchor_117"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_117">[27]</a>); the Bedouins about Sennaar are said to be the
+most skilful in its preparation.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">[297]</span> Leather sacks (Djerab <span class="arabic" lang="ar">جراب</span> plur. <span class="arabic" lang="ar">جربان</span>) are likewise sold here; they serve for the
+transport of every kind of baggage and merchandize, excepting
+Dhourra, gum arabic, and salt, which are carried in baskets. Many
+blacksmiths repair to Shendy from<img alt="" class="float-right iw8" src="images/i34.jpg" id="i34"> the country; they make and sell
+the small knives generally worn among these people. These knives
+are about eight inches long, and are worn in a leathern scabbard
+tied over the left elbow: they are two-edged, like those worn by
+the Berábera, and are of the shape here represented.</p>
+
+<p>The market is so crowded, and the dust and heat are so great,
+during the mid-day hours, which is the favourite time for
+transacting business, that I was unable to remain in the
+market-place many hours together, and always left one of my
+companions in charge of the little I had to sell. In different
+parts of the place are stationed peasants with jars of water, which
+they sell to the thirsty, at the rate of a handful of Dhourra for
+as much water as two persons can drink. Several of the Fakys have
+water cisterns in the court-yards of their houses, which are always
+kept full, and at which every one may drink gratis. Many of them
+have likewise small chapels annexed to their dwellings. There is no
+mosque in the whole place.</p>
+
+<p>The only artizans I saw at Shendy were blacksmiths,
+silversmiths, who work very coarse ornaments for the women,
+tanners, potters, and carpenters. If a house is to be built, the
+owner, his relatives, and slaves, with a few labourers, execute the
+masonry, and the carpenter is only called in to lay the roof and
+make the doors. Like the Bedouins of the desert, these Arabs are
+their own artizans upon all ordinary occasions.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">[298]</span>There are no
+weavers at Shendy, but all the women and grown up children, and
+many of the men, are seen with a distaff constantly in their hands,
+spinning cotton yarn, which they sell to the people of Berber. The
+distaff, Mugzil (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مغزل</span>),
+resembles that used in Egypt and Syria. Cotton is cultivated in
+this neighbourhood, and is a general produce of all the countries
+on the banks of the Nile, although nowhere in any great quantity,
+except at Damer and about Sennaar.</p>
+
+<p>The wholesale trade at Shendy is principally conducted through
+the agency of brokers. Most of these are Dongoláwy, who seem, in
+general, to be the most acute and intelligent traders of this part
+of the country. A caravan no sooner arrives, than every merchant’s
+house is crowded with brokers; but the avidity and parsimony of all
+parties are too great to allow them to bring their transactions to
+a speedy conclusion. Even after the bargain is made, each party
+endeavours to cheat the other before the goods are delivered and
+the money paid. In addition to this, every attempt to enter into an
+engagement of any importance becomes known all over the place, and
+the jealousy of the traders often prevents its taking place. No
+merchandize has its fixed price; there is no such thing as a price
+current; every one sells according to the prospect he has of
+cheating the buyer and bribing the broker. The purchase money, or
+in cases of barter, its equivalent in merchandize, is almost always
+immediately paid down; the longest credit I have witnessed is a
+couple of days; and it is evident, on the termination of every
+commercial transaction, that the buyer and seller reciprocally
+entertain suspicions of each others honesty. To oblige a debtor to
+settle his accounts, recourse is generally had to the slaves of the
+Mek, who act as police officers; but a man who is unprotected, and
+without friends, is sure to lose the greater part<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">[299]</span> of his goods, if he allows
+them to go out of his hands without immediate payment.</p>
+
+<p>I shall now briefly mention the different articles of the trade
+of Shendy with Egypt, Kordofan, Sennaar, and Souakin; premising,
+however, that I remained too short a time to collect the fullest
+and most correct information on that subject.</p>
+
+<p>The principal articles imported from Egypt are the
+Sembil<a id="FNanchor_118"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_118">[28]</a> (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سِنبِل</span>), and Mehleb (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">محلب</span>), both of which are in great request in Soudan;
+the former as a perfume and medicine, the latter as a condiment,
+and occasionally as a medicine also. The traders usually sell them
+together, in the proportion of about three parts of Sembil to one
+of Mehleb. Thus, in general, each camel load contains about 350
+pounds of the former, and 120 pounds of the latter; but sometimes
+it consists of equal quantities of each. The loads of these
+articles are termed exclusively Zamele (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">زامله</span>), i. e. the full, or great load. Every
+respectable merchant coming from Egypt brings with him two Zameles.
+In the caravan with which I came there were eight, distributed
+amongst thirty-nine camels, the whole number of the beasts of
+transport. The Zamele is easily disposed of, in wholesale, to the
+Sennaar merchants, who give, in exchange, dollars, Dammour, and
+slaves.</p>
+
+<p>There is much less demand for these drugs in the west than in
+the south of Africa. In the countries to the north of Abyssinia, in
+those south of Sennaar, and in Abyssinia itself, they are in
+constant use, and besides what passes by land,
+considerable<span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">[300]</span>
+quantities are shipped from Djidda to Massouah, for the Abyssinian
+market. They are here at least 250 per cent. dearer than at Cairo.
+The Egyptians sometimes push on as far as Sennaar, if they cannot
+find a ready sale for their Zamele at Shendy.</p>
+
+<p><em>Soap.</em> The soap which supplies all Egypt and Arabia, is
+manufactured at Gazé, Yaffa, Hebron, and Jerusalem. No good soap
+has hitherto been made in Egypt itself; there are several
+manufactories of it at Siout, but it is of a very inferior kind,
+the oil which they employ being made from the lettuce, instead of
+the olive. The Pasha of Egypt, however, has lately established,
+under the direction of an able Italian, a soap manufactory in the
+Delta. The oil is brought from the Archipelago, and the natron
+lakes furnish the alkali. Soap is a very profitable article, and in
+great demand in all parts of the southern countries, but it exposes
+the merchant to the importunities of numerous beggars of all
+classes, whose commonest intreaty is for a piece of soap to wash
+their shirt, and whom it is not always advisable to send away
+unsatisfied. Soap is sold at Shendy by the piece, without examining
+into its greater or smaller size. This is likewise the case with
+<em>sugar</em>. The loaf, weighing about four pounds, and the prime
+cost of which in the sugar works of Upper Egypt is one-sixth of a
+dollar, is sold for a dollar at Shendy. Its dearness is owing to
+the great risks incurred in transporting it, as a sudden fall of
+rain on the road might ruin a whole cargo.</p>
+
+<p>Sugar is much in demand in all parts, for presents to the great
+people, and to the women.<a id="FNanchor_119"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_119">[29]</a> It is always eaten by itself, never entering
+into any dish of sweetmeats, or cookery.</p>
+
+<p>The other chief imports of Egyptian manufacture are
+<em>Takas</em>, a sort of coarse cambric, died blue, with which the
+women, especially<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">[301]</span>
+the Bedouin women, line their best clokes. It is sold in small
+pieces, one of which, when I was at Shendy, was worth a dollar; it
+is the most current article of merchandize in small bargains, and
+is principally bought up by the Kordofan merchants. It is
+everywhere very acceptable, as it serves to pay the local
+authorities, when dollars are not at hand. <em>White cotton
+stuffs</em>, with red borders, made at Mehalla, in the Delta; they
+are worn by the great people, especially at Sennaar.
+<em>Melayes</em>, a blue striped cotton cloth, in which the women
+of distinction wrap themselves up when they sleep. The Darfour
+caravans also take from Egypt, as presents to kings and other great
+persons, scarlet cloth, and some velvet, satin, and
+gold-embroidered stuffs, of the lighter kind, from Lyons and
+Florence, together with a variety of English calicoes and cambrics.
+<em>Linen</em> made at Siout and Monfalout is in great request for
+shirts, but is too dear to be commonly worn. Egyptian
+<em>Sheep-skins</em>, dressed with the wool on, form also a
+considerable article of importation. They are used as saddle-cloths
+for the horses, dromedaries, and asses, of the natives, and as
+carpets to sit upon in their women’s apartments. They are often
+died blue or red, and find their way to the farthest parts of the
+west and south. No chief of a tribe, or head of a village, is
+without one of these skins. The sheep of the southern countries
+bear no wool.</p>
+
+<p><em>Beads.</em> I have already mentioned the use of beads in
+these countries, as a kind of currency. The most common are small
+wooden beads, made by the turners of Upper Egypt, which are bought
+up chiefly by the Bedouin and other peasants. Others, of which the
+chief manufactory is at Déndera in Upper Egypt, are made of the
+kernels of the Doum, and are worn by all those who wish to
+distinguish themselves by an appearance of sanctity. A variety of
+beads, of a red and black colour, are imported from
+Jerusalem.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">[302]</span> There is
+hardly a man, woman, or child, without a string or two of beads
+round the neck, or arm, or in their hands. Glass beads (Kherraz
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خرّز</span>) have not the same
+currency here as they have in Abyssinia and Darfour, though they
+are constantly seen in the market. The better sort are of Venetian
+manufacture, but the greater part are made at El Khalil (or Hebron,
+near Jerusalem), which furnishes the whole of southern Syria, and
+the greatest part of Egypt, and of Arabia, with glass ware. The
+white glass beads of Bohemia, called by the Italians Contaria
+d’Olanda, go to Darfour. Of Venetian glass beads, from four to five
+hundred chests, of ten cwt. each, are sold annually at Cairo, at
+from fifty to one hundred patacks per cwt., or from 4<em>l.</em> to
+8<em>l.</em> I had an opportunity, when at Djidda, of seeing the
+beads destined for the Abyssinian market, of which I counted at
+least a dozen varieties, each known by its name, as, Om Shaher
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ام شهر</span>, the renowned), Serdj
+el Melouk (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سرج الملوك</span>, the
+king’s saddle), Ayn el Kahba (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عين
+القحبه</span>, the whore’s eye), Alowan (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الوان</span>, the many-coloured), Khams djenous (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خمس جنوس</span>, the five sorts), Hassan Beg
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حسّن بك</span>), Othman Beg
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عثمن بك</span>), all different
+species. Every district there has its particular glass bead, which
+is not in fashion in the neighbouring districts. The Souakin
+merchants import into Shendy a species of beads called Reysh
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">رَيش</span>), which are bought up
+exclusively by the Kordofan merchants, and which form the principal
+article of exchange for slaves, in their own country: they are
+likewise in demand at Darfour, Dar Saleh, and Bergho, to the west
+of Darfour. The Reysh come from the East Indies, principally from
+Surat; they are perforated balls of coloured agate, of the size of
+a small cherry, much resembling the marbles with which the children
+in Europe play. One thousand of these Reysh were worth, at Djidda,
+fifteen Spanish dollars. At Shendy they are sold at three Wokyes,
+or forty-eight dollars; and I was told that<span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">[303]</span> at Kordofan one thousand of them would
+purchase six female slaves, who, on being carried to Shendy, are
+there worth one hundred and twenty dollars. The Reysh are worn as
+necklaces by the women. The trade in this article is considered as
+one of the most profitable, because the beads are easily
+transported, and may escape the notice of the chiefs of the
+country.</p>
+
+<p><em>Coral</em> (Merdjan <span class="arabic" lang="ar">مرجان</span>) of a bad kind is brought in small quantities;
+the tribes of the chiefs adorn their necks with it, and also with
+amber. False coral (Merdjan kudab <span class="arabic" lang="ar">مرجان كداب</span>) comes from Venice, and goes principally to
+the western countries. Of amber the transparent kind only is in
+request.</p>
+
+<p><em>Paper</em> (Papier de trois limes, from Genoa and Leghorn),
+is rather a heavy article here; it is more in demand in the western
+countries, to which it is carried by the Darfour caravans: it is,
+however, always found in the warehouses of the Egyptians.
+<em>Pewter</em> (Gasdir <span class="arabic" lang="ar">قصدير</span>), in thin bars, in small quantity. <em>Old
+copper</em>, principally large boilers, and pots, which are bought
+up by the slave traders, for their own use. <em>Yellow brass
+wire</em> (Selk Asfar <span class="arabic" lang="ar">سلك
+اصفر</span>), for which there is a great demand throughout all
+these countries, for ornamenting the lances, by twisting it round
+different parts of the shaft.</p>
+
+<p>Of hardware, the most current articles are <em>razors</em>, of
+that quality which, in Germany, from whence they come, may be worth
+three pence each; at Cairo, they are sold wholesale for twelve
+paras apiece. <em>Files</em>, almost all of which are transformed
+into knives, in order to obtain a good steel blade. <em>Thimbles,
+scissars, needles</em>, all of the coarsest kind, of Nuremberg
+manufacture; <em>Nails, steels</em> to strike fire;
+<em>Sword-blades</em>, of the kind, which I have already described,
+and which are in common use all over the Black countries to the
+east of the Fezzan trade. They come from Sohlingen in Germany;
+about three thousand of them are annually sold at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">[304]</span> Cairo to the southern traders.
+<em>Antimony</em>, in small lumps. <em>Tar</em> (Gitran
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قطران</span>), with which
+water-skins are rubbed, to make them water-tight, and the backs of
+camels, to preserve them from the scab, or to cure them of that
+disease. <em>Silver trinkets</em> for female ornaments, as
+bracelets, ear-rings, &amp;c.; of these the Darfour caravans take
+off considerable quantities from Egypt. Very <em>small bells</em>
+(<em>sonaglii</em>), with which they ornament, in Sennaar and
+Darfour, the camel’s bridle and halter. <em>Marcasite</em> (Roh
+toutiya <span class="arabic" lang="ar">روح توتيه</span>) goes
+likewise to Sennaar and Darfour. <em>Looking-glasses</em> of
+Venetian and Trieste manufacture, with gilt covers, constitute a
+distinguished article of the Egyptian trade; the most common kinds
+are about four inches square; others are round, of about the same
+size, with a long handle, made at Cairo. No woman marries here
+without decorating her room with such a looking-glass.</p>
+
+<p>Since the Mamelouks have established themselves in Dóngola,
+every Egyptian caravan brings to Shendy some articles of Mamelouk
+dress, as cloths, shoes, &amp;c., which are purchased by the
+Dóngola merchants. Until lately the direct trade between Upper
+Egypt and Dóngola was prohibited by the Pasha of Egypt, and the
+merchants preferred this circuitous route to the danger of having
+their goods confiscated. During the warfare between the Mamelouks
+and the Sheygya, the former sent the greater part of their women to
+Shendy, as a place less exposed to the casualties of desultory
+warfare; they afterwards recalled them, but some were still there
+when I arrived, making themselves ridiculous by their arrogance and
+pretensions.</p>
+
+<p>The Egyptian trade is, in general, carried on with very small
+capitals. I do not believe that there is a single merchant, the
+whole amount of whose stock exceeds fifteen hundred Spanish
+dollars. The family of the Alowein, with whom I came<span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">[305]</span> from Daraou, and who formed of
+themselves a party of about a dozen people, had no more than a
+thousand dollars embarked in their adventure. The common class of
+merchants have from two to three hundred dollars; even this money
+is seldom their own property; in general it is either borrowed by
+them in Upper Egypt, at high interest, or their merchandize is
+bought at Esne, Kenne, or even at Cairo, upon credit: the reason
+is, that no truly respectable merchant of Egypt ever engages in
+such enterprizes. A journey to Soudan is looked upon, even in
+Egypt, as a desperate undertaking, in which those only embark who
+have little or nothing to lose; and in general, the traffic in
+slaves, or, as it is often called in Egypt, the trade in human
+flesh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">التسبّب في لحم بن ادم</span>)
+is by no means thought creditable. The people of Daraou, however,
+find credit, and might easily accumulate riches, if they were not
+so incorrigibly vicious and dissipated, spending the best part of
+their profits in drinking and debauchery. The money which they
+borrow in Upper Egypt, and for which they generally pledge their
+houses or landed property, as security, is lent to them at an
+interest of fifty per cent. for the journey, whatever length of
+time they may remain absent; and the goods which are bought upon
+credit in Egypt, on condition of payment upon their return, are
+sold to them at a price raised in the same proportion. The Daraou
+merchants train their children, at a very early age, to this
+commerce. Several boys, hardly ten years of age, followed their
+fathers in the caravan with which I travelled from Daraou; and when
+once embarked in this traffic, they perform at least two journeys
+annually until their latest years. I have seen people at Daraou,
+who boasted that their great, great grandfathers (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جد جدّي</span>) had been Sennaar merchants.</p>
+
+<p>The Darfour merchants have at Cairo the reputation of being much
+better paymasters than those of the eastern route; they
+have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">[306]</span> also much
+larger capitals embarked in their trade, and are entrusted with
+more considerable sums upon credit, especially at Siout, where many
+of them make their purchases. It may easily be conceived, from what
+I have already said of the prices of several articles of trade,
+that the profits of the Egyptians are very great. In fact there is
+not a single article of Egyptian or European manufacture, which is
+not sold at Shendy at double or triple its prime cost in Egypt, and
+the products of the southern countries yield as great a profit when
+sold in Egypt. The rapacity of the chiefs through whose territories
+the caravans pass, the expense of transport across the
+desert,<a id="FNanchor_120"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_120">[30]</a> the feeding of the
+slaves, the tribute paid to the Ababdes, and the duties laid upon
+the trade by the Pasha of Egypt,<a id="FNanchor_121"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_121">[31]</a> are indeed heavy drawbacks, but still the
+profits are very considerable; and I am certain that a well chosen
+assortment of goods carried from Daraou to Shendy, leaves, after
+the sale of the return-cargo at Daraou, a clear gain of one hundred
+and fifty per cent., according to the most moderate calculation. I
+have heard of Zameles, or camel loads of Sembil and Mehleb, which,
+after having been exchanged at Shendy for slaves, produced at Cairo
+a profit of almost five hundred per cent. Of late, the Egyptian
+merchants have found dollars the most beneficial article of
+importation from Europe, because with dollars camels can be
+immediately procured in any quantity; but this preference will last
+only as long as camels continue to be in great demand in Egypt, for
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">[307]</span> transport
+between Kenne and Kosseir, and for the supply of the Turkish army
+in the Hedjaz.</p>
+
+<p>There are a few instances of wealthy merchants from Egypt having
+come to Shendy with large capitals, as Bakim Aga, a Smyrniote by
+birth, who, eight or ten years ago, left Egypt with about twenty
+loaded camels, but who died at Shendy: his property fell a prey to
+the Mek, and no one has since made a similar attempt. The entire
+amount of the capital invested by the Egyptian merchants in the
+Soudan trade, I calculate to be from sixty to eighty thousand
+dollars, but as this sum produces a profit twice, and sometimes
+thrice in one year, according to the number of journeys, the whole
+value of the imports into these countries from Egypt, may be
+computed at about fifteen hundred, or two thousand dollars per
+annum. No dollars are re-exported from the Negro countries; they
+are dispersed or hoarded by the chiefs and other persons, and thus
+Soudan becomes a continual drain for a part of the silver of
+Europe.</p>
+
+<p>The trade might be much improved, either by regularity in the
+departure of the caravans (they might quit Daraou, for instance,
+every two months), or by establishing factories at Berber and
+Shendy; for at present, caravans from all parts are often kept
+waiting for months for the arrival of others, to which alone they
+can dispose of their goods. The Nubian desert is indeed crossed
+almost every fortnight by small parties of adventurers; but they
+trade at every place on the road, and Egyptian goods can seldom be
+found in any quantity at Shendy (and I suppose it is the same at
+Sennaar), except after the arrival of the large caravans, the
+departure of which from Daraou is at present quite irregular. The
+Sennaar caravan sets out from Upper Egypt generally once a year,
+and returns the next year. It rests at Berber, Damer, and Shendy,
+and is often from two to three months on its way from<span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">[308]</span> Daraou to Sennaar. This
+caravan consists of three or four hundred men, and several hundred
+camels, and it is joined on its return by many Sennaar traders,
+chiefly agents of the king of Sennaar and his vizier, who are the
+principal merchants at that place. It was with this caravan that
+the Pasha of Egypt sent last year an envoy to Sennaar, for the
+purpose, as it was said, of exciting the king against the
+Mamelouks, and at the same time of informing himself of the
+practicability of invading the country with a Turkish army.
+Notwithstanding the contrary assertions of the government of Egypt,
+it is certain that the ambassador was much slighted, and narrowly
+escaped ill treatment in the road. He carried to the king of
+Sennaar presents of shawls, muslins, arms, &amp;c. to the amount of
+three or four thousand dollars; in return for which the king sent
+to Mohammed Aly three or four ugly female slaves, some leopard
+skins, a civet cat, two monkeys, and a young lion, which died in
+its passage through the desert; the whole present was worth, at
+Sennaar, about eighty dollars. During my stay in Arabia I was
+informed that an embassy sent by Mohammed Aly to Abyssinia, had had
+a still less agreeable issue. Mohammed having taken possession of
+the town and harbour of Massouah, where, until that time, the
+Sherif of Mekka had kept his collector of customs,<a id="FNanchor_122"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_122">[32]</a> and having thus become a neighbour of the
+Abyssinians, thought it necessary to place himself upon good terms
+with the king of Gondar, preferring, by these means, to counteract
+any efforts which the Mamelouks might make in that direction, while
+he gratified his vanity in causing it to be said that the celebrity
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">[309]</span> his name had
+reached even the most inaccessible parts of Africa. The ambassador,
+however, was stopped at Axum by Ras Weled Selase, in the same
+manner as Mr. Salt had been, some years before. Selase took the
+presents destined for the king, and sent the Pasha, in return, a
+white linen shirt (the dress of the country), and one hundred
+Spanish dollars, as a subsidy for his expenses in the Wahabi
+campaign.<a id="FNanchor_123"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_123">[33]</a></p>
+
+<p>Caravans from Sennaar arrive at Shendy every six weeks, or two
+months. Whenever they bring Dhourra, the number of their loaded
+camels amounts to five or six hundred; but if they have only goods
+and slaves, they seldom have one hundred camels with them. The
+principal import from Sennaar is the Dammour, or cotton stuff,
+which is in use not only along the banks of the Nile, as far as
+Dóngola, but in Kordofan, in a great part of Darfour, and
+Abyssinia, and throughout the whole of Nubia east of the Nile, as
+far as the Red Sea. This article is always in great demand, and is
+therefore taken in exchange for almost every article of trade. The
+cotton manufactories of Sennaar, and those of Bagerme, to the west
+of Darfour, furnish the greater part of north-eastern Africa with
+articles of dress.</p>
+
+<p><em>Gold</em> is the second article in the Sennaar trade. It is
+purchased by the merchants of Sennaar from the Abyssinian traders;
+but I have not been able exactly to ascertain in what province of
+western Abyssinia it is found. The principal market for gold
+appears to be Ras el Fil, a station in the caravan route from
+Sennaar to Gondar, four days journeys from the former. This route
+is at present much frequented by Sennaar traders, as well as by
+that class of Abyssinian merchants called Djebert (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جبرت</span>), who appear to be the chief slave
+and gold traders of that country. I have never<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">[310]</span> heard of a single Egyptian merchant who
+ever pushed on as far as Ras el Fil; for although the road is not
+unsafe, yet every body seems to be afraid in these countries of
+undertaking distant journeys unaccompanied by a large party of his
+own countrymen. The jealousy of all classes of merchants is very
+great, and their known treachery prevents single adventurers from
+trusting themselves to their mercy, or good faith.</p>
+
+<p>The Djebert above mentioned often repair to Sennaar, chiefly in
+search of Negro slaves; and I have reason to believe that the route
+from Sennaar through Ras el Fil to Gondar, and from thence to the
+coast, may be safely travelled in time of internal peace. The gold
+imported from Sennaar is principally bought up by the Souakin
+traders, who carry it to Djidda, where it is given in payment for
+India goods. It is seldom purchased by the Egyptian merchants, as
+it is not very profitable. At Sennaar the ounce of pure gold is
+worth twelve dollars; at Shendy, sixteen; at Souakin, twenty; at
+Djidda, twenty-two. Although the Souakin merchants might purchase
+at Shendy many articles more profitable than gold, they often
+prefer it on account of its easy transport, and the facility with
+which they can secrete it, and avoid paying any duty on the
+road.</p>
+
+<p>Slaves are also brought to Shendy by the merchants of Sennaar.
+Since the direct caravan route from Sennaar to Kordofan has been
+interrupted, principally by the robberies and the rapacity of the
+Arabs of Shilluk, at the passage of the Bahr el Abyadh, this is the
+only route open to them. The slaves are chiefly either Abyssinians
+or of the race called Nouba (sing. Nebowy, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">نبوه</span>). The former consist principally of females
+of the Gala nations, and of a few Amaaras.<a id="FNanchor_124"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_124">[34]</a> Upon the whole, the number of Abyssinians
+sent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">[311]</span> to the
+northward by Shendy is small. The best female Abyssinians are
+always purchased by the chiefs for their own harems; and in Arabia
+and Egypt Abyssinian slaves may be had cheaper by the Djebert
+traders from Massouah, who sell them at Djidda. I think that not
+more than one hundred female Abyssinian slaves are annually
+exported from Sennaar either to Souakin or to Egypt. Latterly the
+Mamelouks have bought up many of them, the Abyssinians being
+remarked above all other black women for their beauty, and for the
+warmth and constancy of their affection to the master who has once
+taught them to love him.</p>
+
+<p>The name of Nouba is given to all the Blacks coming from the
+slave countries to the south of Sennaar. The territory of Sennaar
+extends, as far as I could learn from the merchants of the country,
+ten days journey beyond the city, in a south and south-east
+direction, and is inhabited exclusively by free Arab tribes, who
+make incursions into the more southern mountains, and carry off the
+children of the idolaters. These Nouba slaves (among whom must also
+be reckoned those who are born in the neighbourhood of Sennaar, of
+male Negroes and female Abyssinians; and who are afterwards sold by
+the masters of the parents) form a middle class between the true
+Blacks and the Abyssinians; their colour is less dark than that of
+the Negroe, and has a copper tinge, but it is darker than that of
+the free Arabs of Sennaar and Shendy. Their features, though they
+retain evident signs of Negroe origin, have still something of what
+is called regular; their noses, though smaller than those of the
+Europeans, are less flat than those of the Negroes; their lips are
+less thick, and the cheek-bones not so prominent. The hair of some
+is woolly; but among the greater part it is similar to the hair of
+Europeans, but stronger, and always curled.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">[312]</span> The palm of their hands is soft, a
+circumstance by which they particularly distinguish themselves from
+the true Negroe, whose hands, when touched feel like wood.</p>
+
+<p>The male Noubas in Egypt, as well as in Arabia, are preferred to
+all others, for labour: they bear a good character, and sell at
+Shendy and in Egypt twenty per cent. dearer than the Negroes. The
+male Abyssinians, on the contrary, are known to be little fit for
+bodily work, but they are esteemed for their fidelity, and make
+excellent house servants, and often clerks, their intellects being
+certainly much superior to those of the Blacks. The Noubas are said
+to be of a healthier constitution, and to suffer less from disease
+than the Abyssinians. The greatest part of them are exported to
+Egypt; but some are sent to Souakin.</p>
+
+<p><em>Ivory.</em> Elephants teeth are bought up by the Egyptian
+merchants, but in small quantities. This branch of commerce seems
+to have been formerly much more flourishing; but at present there
+is little demand for ivory in Egypt, probably because Europe draws
+its supplies cheaper from Barbary and the East Indies. The
+importation of ivory, however, from Darfour into Egypt is still of
+some importance, though ivory often fails entirely in the market of
+Cairo.</p>
+
+<p>The Negroes seem never to have known the art of taming the
+elephant; they catch him in pits, or kill him by discharging a
+shower of javelins from the trees under which he passes. The flesh
+is said to be eaten near Sennaar.</p>
+
+<p><em>Rhinoceros horns;</em> in Egyptian Arabic called Khartit
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خرتيت</span>). The rhinoceros is
+called in the Negroe countries Om Korn (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ام قرن</span> or, the mother (i. e. the owner) of the one
+horn; it is evidently from this animal that the imaginary unicorn
+has had its origin. The Arabs have often described to me the
+rhinoceros as an animal like a large cow, with thick legs, and a
+short tail, with one long<span class="pagenum" id="Page_313">[313]</span> horn<a id="FNanchor_125"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_125">[35]</a> on its forehead, and having a skin like large
+scales, as hard as iron. Whenever I described the unicorn, and
+asked them whether such an animal, with a long horn existed, they
+never failed to point out the Om Korn, as the animal I meant. The
+rhinoceros inhabits the neighbourhood of Sennaar, but never the
+countries of the Nile to the north of that place. Its northern
+boundary, like that of the elephant, seems to be the mountain to
+the north of the village of Abou Heraze, two days journeys from
+Sennaar, which advances close to the river, and thus intercepts the
+passage along its banks. Neither of these animals is known at
+Shendy, or at Halfaya, which is two days to the south of the former
+place. The Khartit, or horn of the rhinoceros, is worked at Cairo
+into ornaments for the handles of swords and poniards, to be
+mounted in the Mamelouk fashion. It is dear; I have seen pieces
+about four inches long, and one inch thick, sold for four or five
+Spanish dollars each.</p>
+
+<p>The <em>Musk</em> of the civet-cat is not sold at Shendy; but
+the Souakin merchants who visit Sennaar bring with them small
+quantities of it, which they sell again at Djidda. The principal
+markets for this article are Massouah, and Mekka, during the Hadj.
+It is brought to Cairo by the Djidda merchants.</p>
+
+<p>The <em>Whips</em> above mentioned, called Korbadj, are imported
+from Sennaar only.</p>
+
+<p><em>Ebony</em> is brought in small pieces; the largest I saw
+were about one foot in length. The wood is said to grow to the
+south of Sennaar; but, I suspect, at a great distance, as it is
+very dear. Knife handles, neatly worked in ebony, are brought from
+Sennaar;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">[314]</span> the
+knives, which are worn tied over the elbow by the Arabs of those
+countries, are afterwards fitted into them. The Djellabs, or slave
+merchants, do not carry any ebony into Egypt, Cairo being supplied
+with it from Djidda; but I understand that it grows in the deserts
+adjoining to Darfour on the west.</p>
+
+<p><em>Coffee-beans,</em> in small quantity, the growth of
+Abyssinia and the Gala country. None of these are carried from
+Massouah to Djidda, as the coffee plant grows in the most western
+parts of Abyssinia only. Coffee is not commonly drank here; it is a
+luxury in which the chiefs alone indulge.</p>
+
+<p><em>Leather.</em> The best manufactories of leather, between
+Darfour and the Red Sea, are at Sennaar. The manufacturers exercise
+their skill chiefly in making camel saddles (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قصعة</span> Gassaat), leathern sacks, and sandals. The
+first are exported to Egypt for the dromedaries, or riding-camels,
+and are sold there as high as twenty dollars. They are ornamented
+with many pretty leathern tassels, and are of workmanship equally
+elegant and durable. The leathern sacks are bought up by the
+Souakin merchants, and sold by them to the inhabitants of Yemen,
+who use them for carrying provisions in travelling; they are
+extremely well sewed; some of them are secured with a padlock:
+great numbers of them were formerly sold at Mekka to the Wahabi by
+the Souakin people. The leather is of the best quality, much
+superior to that made in Egypt and Syria, and almost as good as the
+Russia leather. The Sennaar sandals are worn by all the
+well-dressed men and women throughout Nubia; a young woman had
+rather wear a torn shirt than ugly sandals. They are sown with a
+precision and nicety little to be expected from the rude Arabs. At
+Shendy the best sandals cost two dollars a pair. Every place in
+these countries has a peculiar fashion in the form of the sandals
+worn by its inhabitants; so that, with a little experience, the
+residence of every man<span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">[315]</span> may be ascertained by looking at his feet.
+The same custom prevails in Arabia; and I remember, that when I
+first arrived at Djidda, wearing a pair of sandals which I had
+bought at Souakin, many persons, who knew nothing of me, pointed to
+my sandals, and asked what business I had had at Souakin.</p>
+
+<p>Small <em>water flasks</em> (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مطهَره</span> Mattharah, or <span class="arabic" lang="ar">زَمزَميِّه</span> Zamzamieh), made of leather, which are much
+esteemed in Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>To the imports of Sennaar belong likewise the <em>Shields</em>
+made of the skins of the rhinoceros and giraffa; they are made by
+the Bedouin Arabs, who sell them at Sennaar, and they are used all
+along the Nile, and across the mountains, as far as Kosseir and
+Kenne, in Upper Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>The <em>fruit of the Nebek</em>, the fleshy part of which is
+separated from the stone, and dried in the sun; it is put up in
+small leathern bags and carried as far as Souakin; it affords a
+very agreeable provision during a journey.</p>
+
+<p>The most important articles of the Sennaar trade at Shendy are
+camels and Dhourra, without the continual importation of which
+Shendy would soon be in danger of famine. The Dhourra caravans
+usually perform the journey by themselves, the merchants seldom
+joining them, but forming caravans of their own. They are more
+wealthy people than the Egyptian traders; and it is not rare to see
+a man possessing ten camel loads of Dammour, and a whole party of
+slaves. I was told the name of a Sennaar merchant who bought at
+Shendy the entire loads of an Egyptian caravan, consisting of
+thirty camels.</p>
+
+<p><em>Honey,</em> in considerable quantity, is also imported from
+Sennaar. As far as I could understand, the Arabs about Sennaar
+collect wild honey in great quantity, but do not trouble themselves
+with keeping beehives near their own houses.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">[316]</span>I did not learn
+that any passage duties, or customs, are exacted at Sennaar; the
+only obstacle thrown in the way of trade is that the king always
+forces his own merchandize upon the buyer, before the private
+adventurers can enter into any bargains. The Sennaar merchants take
+in return from the Egyptian traders Sembil and Mehleb, in large
+quantities, sugar, soap, and almost every article of the Egyptian
+and Souakin markets. Since the interruption of the direct
+communication between Sennaar and Kordofan, the inhabitants of the
+former place have been known to buy at Shendy Negro slaves brought
+from Kordofan, which they can obtain here at lower prices than
+their own Nouba slaves at Sennaar. During my residence at Shendy,
+the route along the Nile to Sennaar was rendered dangerous, from
+the disputes that had arisen between the Meks of Halfaya and
+Herbadjy; the caravans therefore preferred taking the desert route,
+which lies parallel with the river, at about one day’s journey
+inland, as far as Abou Heraze, where they again join the river; a
+single well is met with in this route, at about three days from
+Shendy, and this even is sometimes not taken into the road, on
+account of the visits of the Bedouins Shukorye, of whom the Sennaar
+people entertain great fears.</p>
+
+<p>The arrival of the Kordofan caravans at Shendy is quite
+uncertain, and depends upon the caprice of the governor of
+Kordofan, who often prevents the departure of merchants, in order
+to increase his own commercial profits. Three months sometimes
+elapse without any arrival, after which they come in rapid
+succession. The road from Obeydh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اُبيّض</span>) (not Ibeit, as Browne writes it), the capital
+of Kordofan, to Shendy, is quite safe; it is performed in about
+fourteen days, of which the five last are through a desert without
+water. With the Kordofan caravans arrive also merchants from
+Darfour; and the intercourse between Kobé, the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">[317]</span> capital of Darfour, and Obeydh, is said
+to be at present very brisk, and quite safe. Kordofan has no other
+slaves than those brought from Darfour; its own people, it seems,
+do not traffic with the southern Negro countries; but since the
+arrival of the Mamelouks in Dóngola, a direct trade has been opened
+between that country and Kordofan, the northern limits of which are
+said to be only six days distance from the frontiers of
+Dóngola.</p>
+
+<p>The arrival of every Kordofan caravan at Shendy fills the market
+with slaves, who constitute the principal import from thence. The
+Kordofan merchants bring likewise gum arabic, of the best quality
+known in the Negro countries;<a id="FNanchor_126"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_126">[36]</a> Erdeyb, or Tamarinds; the gum Leban; Natron
+from Darfour; Sheshme, the seed used in Egypt for diseases of the
+eye; Shooshe, a small pea of Kordofan and Darfour growth; the
+latter are of a fine pink colour, with a small black spot at one
+end, and are worn in strings as necklaces. They sell also ropes of
+leather. The inhabitants of the countries on the Nile make their
+ropes and cords of the fibrous inner bark of the palm date-tree,
+called Lif (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ليف</span>), or of reeds
+which grow on the banks of river; but all the western nations,
+where no date-trees grow, use for their packages twisted leathern
+thongs, which are of great solidity and strength, a very important
+advantage in travelling through the deserts with heavily loaded
+camels. These ropes are sold to the Egyptian and Souakin merchants,
+as are likewise large leathern sacks made of very thick ox-leather
+in Kordofan and Darfour.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318">[318]</span> These sacks are used for the transport of
+Dhourra meal through the desert for the food of the slaves. Large
+water-skins (Rey <span class="arabic" lang="ar">رَيّ</span>) made
+of ox-hides, in which traders who have many slaves transport water
+through the desert: two of these Reys make a camel’s load; they
+keep the water much better than the smaller goats skins, and the
+thickness of the leather prevents it from evaporating so readily.
+Reys are a considerable article of commerce between Darfour and
+Egypt; they are used in all the towns of Egypt, and particularly at
+Cairo, to transport the water from the river to the town, for the
+daily use of the inhabitants. The Kordofan merchants bring likewise
+water-skins made of sheep-skins, in the manufacture of which great
+skill is shown, because the skins are preserved entire. The animals
+are killed by cutting off the head; and those who slaughter them
+possess an art, unknown to the Arabian Bedouins, of taking off the
+skin without cutting it, by introducing the hand at the aperture in
+the throat, armed with a small knife, and thus separating it
+entirely from the carcase. A Kordofan water-skin has thus no seams
+but where the legs are cut off, while the common ones are sewed up
+on three sides. Another import from Kordofan are large wooden
+dishes, or bowls, carved, as it is said, out of the root of some
+tree; they are rubbed with butter, and then held over the fire, to
+give them a black colour. These bowls often supply the place of the
+China ware, vessels, dishes, cups, &amp;c. which in the more polite
+parts of the East are placed upon shelves along the walls of the
+sitting-room, as ornaments. Some of these bowls are large enough to
+contain sufficient food for twelve persons; they are very nicely
+worked; not the smallest trace of the instruments with which they
+are formed can be observed.</p>
+
+<p>Ostrich feathers brought by the Kordofan merchants are also in
+great request. These merchants are people of moderate
+property;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">[319]</span> the
+greater part of them have wives at Shendy and at Darfour, as well
+as at Obeydh; they buy up slaves at Darfour, remain awhile with
+their families at Obeydh, and then bring their slaves to Shendy.
+They have a better character for honesty than the people of
+Sennaar, but the favourable opinion entertained of them does not
+induce any one to trust them with goods upon credit. They take in
+return from Shendy, a little Sembil and Mehleb, some antimony and
+beads, a good deal of spices, especially cloves, which are in great
+demand all over the western countries; a little hardware; Dammour
+from Sennaar; Egyptian linen; Indian cotton stuffs imported from
+Souakin; a few silk and cloth dresses from the Hedjaz, which are
+worn by the chiefs, who seem to be extremely fond of gaudy showy
+dresses, as a mark of distinction; some coffee-beans; but above
+all, Reysh, or Indian agate beads. The common currency of Kordofan,
+besides Dhourra, is said to be small pieces of iron, with which
+milk, flesh, and Dhoken bread, are bought in the market. These
+pieces of iron are collected and worked into axes and spear-heads.
+Cows are likewise taken as a medium of exchange. Slaves are often
+bought for so many cows; wild herbage for their food is so
+abundant, that nobody objects to keeping large numbers of those
+animals in their court-yards.</p>
+
+<p>The most substantial of all the traders who at present frequent
+the Shendy market are the people from Souakin, or as they are more
+commonly called in this part of Africa, the Hadharebe, or
+Hadharame, that is, people of Hadremaut, in South Arabia, from
+whence they draw their origin. Some of these traders are always
+found at Shendy: during my stay there two caravans took their
+departure for Souakin, and one large party arrived; and no month
+passes without some arrivals from that quarter. The Hadhareb also
+visit the Sennaar market; their caravans to that place either take
+the road by Shendy, or the nearer one by Goz Radjeb,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">[320]</span> on the Atbara, from whence
+they proceed straight across the desert to Sennaar. Some of the
+Hadharebe also frequent Obeydh in Kordofan, but not in sufficient
+numbers to form a caravan of their own, and they therefore join the
+native traders. Their caravans are hailed at Shendy by the Sennaar
+and Kordofan people, as the promptest purchasers of their goods;
+but they create great jealousy among the Egyptians, whose rivals
+they are in various articles of import. The Souakin trade supplies
+Shendy principally with India goods. Different sorts of cambric
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بفت</span> Baft, and another sort
+called <span class="arabic" lang="ar">بنوه</span> Benoueh) from
+Madras and Surat; and coarse muslins from Bengal are partly wanted
+for the use of the Shendy and Sennaar inhabitants themselves; but
+the greater part is given in exchange to the Kordofan merchants for
+slaves. They bring also spices, especially cloves, ginger
+(Zandjebil <span class="arabic" lang="ar">زنجبيل</span>), India
+sugar, Mokha beads, as they are called, though none are made at
+Mokha; sandal wood, which is an article of consequence, and finds
+its way from hence to the countries west of Darfour, as far as
+Bagermé; and all the articles of hardware imported by the
+Egyptians, in which, however, the latter can afford to undersell
+them. They also bring the Dhofer, which is taken by the Sennaar and
+Darfour merchants. It is the shell of an animal found in the Red
+Sea, cut into small pieces, and used as a perfume, emitting a
+pleasant odour when held over the fire. The pieces of the Dhofer,
+cut like beads, are much esteemed in the Hedjaz and Egypt, where
+the ladies wear them as necklaces; they are of a black, or dark
+blue colour, with veins of a lighter hue. The people of Souakin
+export them likewise to Djidda.</p>
+
+<p>The Hadharebe take in return gold, slaves (Abyssinians in
+preference), and all the other articles of the Negro trade, except
+gum arabic; though they sometimes take this article also, and sell
+it at Mokha, to English and American traders.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">[321]</span> Every Souakin caravan purchases at
+Shendy a number of horses of the Dóngola breed, which they sell to
+great advantage in Yemen, at Hodeyda, Loheya, and as far south as
+Mokha. The cavalry of the Sherif Hamoud, the present chief of
+Yemen, are mounted almost entirely upon horses from Dóngola, for
+the good breed of native Arab horses is very scarce in Yemen.</p>
+
+<p>The Souakin caravans, that go as far as Sennaar, bring from
+thence a large quantity of tobacco, which they sell in the Yemen.
+These merchants enjoy more credit at Shendy than any others,
+because they are the richest and most numerous, all free Arabs
+themselves, not peasants, like those of Upper Egypt, or Blacks,
+like those of Kordofan; but composed chiefly of the best families
+of Souakin, and who are prompt to revenge an insult offered to any
+individual amongst them. They are always treated very politely by
+the Mek, to whom they make larger presents than any other traders.
+But I shall recur to this subject hereafter, under the head of
+Souakin, which at present is, next to Massouah and Cairo, the most
+important slave-trading place in north-eastern Africa, beyond the
+limits of Soudan.</p>
+
+<p>The Dóngola trade is of little consequence at Shendy. The
+Dongoláwy bring dates, which they buy up in Mahass, and tobacco,
+the growth of their own country. Dates are sent to Sennaar and to
+Kordofan as presents to the chiefs, and are there considered, next
+to sugar, the most exquisite dainty they have.</p>
+
+<p>The female slaves who have served an apprenticeship in the
+houses at Dóngola are eagerly sought for by all traders, as expert
+cooks, and good servants.<a id="FNanchor_127"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_127">[37]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">[322]</span>From the
+concurrence of all these traders, Shendy has become the first
+commercial town in the Black countries for the Egyptian and Arabian
+slave trade. These two trades, and the Abyssinian, are closely
+allied to each other, and merchants of all the three countries
+occasionally meet each other upon the most distant limits of their
+respective trades: and the imports into Africa from the north and
+east are much the same. The farthest limit of the trade appears to
+be Dar Saley, or perhaps Bagermé, to the west and north-west of
+Darfour. Although the countries, to a considerable distance beyond
+those provinces, keep up an intercourse with Darfour, for the
+purpose of receiving Arabian and Egyptian merchandize, they are not
+accessible to commercial enterprize; and merchants, with goods of
+any value, would in vain attempt to pass through the hostile tribes
+of Arabs and Bedouins who people the Bahr el Ghazal, and the
+idolatrous African nations between Bagermé and Afnou. Beyond Bahr
+el Ghazal, towards the frontiers of Bournou, the Fezzan, or
+<em>Zeyla</em> trade, as it is here termed, begins to exercise its
+influence, and spreads from thence far westward across Soudan.
+Notwithstanding my repeated questions on this head (and such
+questions may be put to the Black traders without fear of exciting
+jealousy or suspicion), I never could trace any regular
+intercourse, by means of caravans, between eastern and western
+Soudan; nor have I ever seen any merchants who came from the
+countries beyond Bagermé. Those persons who wish to engage in that
+direction join the Fezzan caravans at Bornou. The few Bornou people
+who come by the direct route through Bahr el Ghazal to Darfour are
+pilgrims who live by charity. The greater part of the slaves met
+with at Shendy are from the idolatrous countries in the vicinity of
+Darfour, Borgho, and Dar Saley. Those from Bornou, who are easily
+distinguished by their tattooed skin, never find their way to
+Shendy; such of them as are seen in Egypt,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">[323]</span> came by the way of Fezzan. Few foreign
+traders, except Egyptians, visit Shendy. A few Yembawy, or Arabians
+from Yembo, arrive occasionally by the Souakin caravans, and there
+are others of the same people, who accompany the Egyptian caravans,
+for there are considerable settlements of Yembawy at Kenne and
+Gous, in Upper Egypt. When I was at Shendy, there were at Kordofan,
+two Yembawy and one Turk from Mohil; the latter had gone thither
+with a small adventure from Egypt, but had spent his money in
+debauchery, and could not raise enough to carry him back to the
+northern countries. Turkish<a id="FNanchor_128"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_128">[38]</a> merchants going from Egypt to Darfour, and
+Sherifs from the Hedjaz, whose object it is to importune the chiefs
+for presents, occasionally come this way. While I was at Shendy an
+Arabian came from Souakin, who was of the tribe of Refaay
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">رفاعي</span>), which is related to
+the great tribe of Djeheyne (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جهينه</span>),<a id="FNanchor_129"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_129">[39]</a> near Yembo; he told me that he had heard that
+there were descendants of his own tribe of Refaay settled to the
+south of Sennaar, and that he intended to visit them, in the hope
+of obtaining some presents from them, as they had always manifested
+kindness to their relatives in the Hedjaz, especially to such as
+had undertaken the journey for the purpose of saluting them. He
+knew the name, and the place of residence of one of the chiefs of
+these Refaay on the river, about six days above Sennaar, and he
+left Shendy with the Sennaar caravan, on his way thither.</p>
+
+<p>Persons from the Hedjaz and from Egypt sometimes pass by Shendy
+on their way to Sennaar, in search of young monkeys, which they
+teach to perform the tricks so amusing to the populace in the towns
+of Arabia, Syria, and Egypt. I was repeatedly asked<span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">[324]</span> whether I had not come in
+search of monkeys, for that my equipments appeared too shabby for
+those of a merchant. These monkey-hunters are held in great
+contempt, because, as the Negroes say, they pass their whole lives
+in making others laugh at them.</p>
+
+<p>I have extended my remarks upon commerce to so great a length
+because it is the very life of society in these countries. There is
+not a single family which is not connected, more or less, with some
+branch of traffic, either wholesale or retail, and the people of
+Berber and Shendy appear to be a nation of traders in the strictest
+sense of the word. I have a few remarks to add upon the most
+important branch of their commerce, the slave-trade.</p>
+
+<p>I calculate the number of slaves sold annually in the market of
+Shendy at about five thousand, of whom about two thousand five
+hundred are carried off by the Souakin merchants, and fifteen
+hundred by those of Egypt; the remainder go to Dóngola, and to the
+Bedouins who live to the east of Shendy, towards the Atbara and the
+Red Sea. I have already made some mention of the places from whence
+these slaves come. Those brought from Kordofan to Darfour, are, for
+the greater part, from the idolatrous countries of Benda, Baadja,
+Fetigo, and Fertit, to the south and south-west of Darfour, from
+twenty to forty days from Kobbe; each of these countries speaks a
+separate language. The Darfour merchants trade with Fertit, which
+lies about twenty days distant from Kobbe, in a southerly
+direction: the country is mountainous, and its inhabitants are
+wholly ignorant of agriculture; but they have tasted the luxury of
+Dhourra and Dokhen; and are said, in cases of a dearth of these
+grains, to sell even their own children to procure them.</p>
+
+<p>Far the largest proportion of the slaves imported into Shendy
+are below the age of fifteen. All of them, both male and female,
+are divided by the traders, with reference to age, into three
+classes:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">[325]</span> namely,
+Khomasy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خماسي</span>), comprising
+those apparently below ten or eleven years; Sedasy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سَداسي</span>), those above eleven and below
+fourteen or fifteen; and Balegh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بالغ</span>), or grown up, those of fifteen and upwards. The
+Sedasy are the most esteemed; when I was at Shendy a male of this
+class was worth fifteen or sixteen dollars, provided he bore the
+marks of the small pox, without which a boy is not worth more than
+two-thirds of that price; a female was worth from twenty to
+twenty-five Spanish dollars. The price of the male Khomasy was
+twelve, of the female fifteen dollars. The male Balegh seldom sells
+for more than eight or ten dollars; and there is but a small
+proportion of this class, because it is thought both in Egypt and
+Arabia, that no great dependance can be placed upon any slave, who
+has not been brought up in the owner’s family from an early age.
+Hence there is a great reluctance to the purchasing of grown up
+slaves for domestic purposes, or even for labourers. The Baleghs
+are chiefly bought by the Bedouins, who employ them as shepherds.
+The Bisharein have many of them in all their encampments. Grown up
+female slaves, although past the age of beauty, sometimes sell for
+as much as thirty dollars, if they are known to be skilful in
+working, sewing, cooking, &amp;c. In Syria few slaves are kept;
+those which I have seen there are, for the greater part, imported
+by the caravans from Bagdad, and come from Souahel on the Mozambik
+coast.</p>
+
+<p>Few slaves are imported into Egypt, without changing masters
+several times, before they are finally settled in a family; for
+instance, those from Fertit are first collected on the borders of
+that country by petty merchants who deal in Dhourra. These sell
+them to the traders of Kobbe, who repair to Fertit in small
+caravans for that purpose. At Kobbe they are bought up by the
+Darfour, or Kordofan traders, who transport them to Obeydh in
+Kordofan. Here they generally pass into the hands of other Kordofan
+dealers,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">[326]</span> who carry
+them to Shendy, for the Soudan merchants commonly limit their
+speculations to a single market; thus the Kordofan people who trade
+to Darfour are different from those who visit Shendy, while, on the
+other hand, the Egyptians who trade to Shendy only, are different
+from those who proceed forward to Sennaar; and, in like manner, the
+Souakin traders are divided into Shendy and Sennaar merchants. At
+Shendy the slave is bought by some Egyptian or Abadbe. Upon his
+arrival in Upper Egypt he is disposed of either at Esne, Siout, or
+Cairo. In the two first places, entire lots of slaves are taken off
+by merchants, who sell them in retail at Cairo, or in the small
+towns of Upper Egypt, in each of which they stop for a few days, in
+their passage down the river. Even at Cairo they are not always
+finally disposed of in the first instance. The Khan of the
+slave-traders, called Okal-ed-djelabe, which is near the mosque El
+Azher, is crowded with pedlars and petty traders, who often bargain
+with the merchants of Upper Egypt for slaves immediately after
+their arrival, and content themselves with a small profit for the
+re-sale. Again, there are merchants from Smyrna and Constantinople
+residing constantly at Cairo, who deal in nothing but slaves; these
+persons export them from Alexandria, and it often happens that they
+pass through three or four hands, between Alexandria and their
+final destination in the northern provinces of Turkey. Such is the
+common lot of the unfortunate slave, but many instances happen of a
+still more rapid change of masters. At Shendy and Esne I have seen
+slaves bought and sold two or three times before they were finally
+removed from the market; after which, perhaps, if the master at the
+end of a few days trial did not find them answer his expectations,
+he would again put them up for sale, or exchange them for others.
+In fact, slaves are considered on the same level with any other
+kind of merchandize, and as such are continually passing from one
+merchant to another. The word Ras (head) is applied to them as
+to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_327">[327]</span> the brute
+species; and a man is said to possess ten Ras Raghig (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">رقيق</span>), or ten head of slaves,<a id="FNanchor_130"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_130">[40]</a> in the same manner as he would be said to
+possess fifty Ras Ghanam, or head of sheep. When the buyer is
+desired to take the slave away, it is usual to say, Soughe,
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سوقه</span>), drive him out, an
+expression which is applied only to cattle, as Soug el ghanam go
+damek (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سوق الغَنَم
+قدامك</span>).</p>
+
+<p>I have seen among the young slaves on sale at Shendy, many
+children of four or five years old without their parents; others of
+the same age are met with in the market, with their mothers; and
+the traders so far shew humanity, that they seldom sell them
+separately; when such a thing is done, the vender is in general
+reproached with being guilty of an act of cruelty.</p>
+
+<p>The traders, in buying slaves, are very attentive to their
+origin, because long experience has proved to them that there is
+little variety of character amongst individuals of the same nation.
+Thus the Noubas who come from Sennaar are said to have the best
+dispositions next to the Abyssinians and Gallas, and to be the most
+attached to their masters. Of the Abyssinians, those from the
+northern provinces, called Kostanis, are said to be treacherous and
+malicious, while the Amaaras are noted for their amiable tempers.
+Of the western Negroes those from Benda are the most esteemed, and
+next to them those imported into Darfour from Borgho, a Mohammedan
+country, whose inhabitants carry off their pagan neighbours. The
+slaves from Fertit are said to be ferocious and vindictive, and
+stand the lowest on the list.</p>
+
+<p>Few slaves arrive at Shendy who have not already passed a
+considerable time in a state of slavery. The strongest proof of
+this fact is, that I never saw any who could not make themselves
+understood in Arabic; and the greater part of those
+imported<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">[328]</span> from
+Darfour and Kordofan, besides their own native tongue, and Arabic,
+have some acquaintance with the idioms of those countries.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as a slave boy becomes the property of a Mussulman
+master he is circumcised, and has an Arabic name given to him. They
+are seldom honoured with a true Mussulman name; such as Hassan,
+Mohammed, Selim, Mustapha, &amp;c. Most of them bear such names as
+these: <span class="arabic" lang="ar">خير الله</span> Kheyr el
+illah; <span class="arabic" lang="ar">فضل الله</span> Fadil ’lilah;
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فضل الواسع</span> Fadil Elwasia;
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جبر واجد</span> Jaber Wadjed;
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اُم الخير</span> Om Elkheyr, and the
+like. Sometimes the names are more extraordinary, as <span class="arabic" lang="ar">صباح الخير</span> Sabah el Kheyr (good morning),
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جراب</span> Djerab (leather sack),
+&amp;c. &amp;c. It very rarely happens that any uncircumcised boys
+come from the west; and I never knew any instance of a Negroe boy
+following the pagan worship of his father, and refusing to become
+Mussulman; though I have heard it related of many Abyssinian
+slaves, who, after having been converted from idolatry to the
+Christian religion by the Abyssinian Copts, were sold by them to
+the Mussulman traders. I have been told of several of these slaves,
+particularly females, so steadily refusing to abjure their faith,
+when in the harem of a Mohammedan, that their masters were finally
+obliged to sell them, in the dread of having children born of a
+Christian mother, which would have been a perpetual reproach to the
+father and his offspring. In Soudan, the slaves, though made
+Mussulmans by the act of circumcision, are never taught to read or
+to pray: and even in Egypt and Arabia this instruction is seldom
+given to any but those for whom their masters take a particular
+liking. It may be observed, nevertheless, that they are greater
+fanatics than the proudest Olemas, and that Christians and Franks
+are more liable to be insulted by slaves than by any other class of
+Mussulmans.</p>
+
+<p>I enquired at Shendy whether any of the slaves were
+eunuchs,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_329">[329]</span> but I was
+informed that no eunuchs were imported into that place during my
+stay, and that Borgho, to the west of Darfour, is the only country
+in eastern Soudan where slaves are thus mutilated for exportation.
+Their number, however, is very small; a few are carried to Egypt
+from Darfour, and the remainder are sent as presents by the Negroe
+sovereigns to the great mosques at Mekka and Medina, by the way of
+Souakin. The great <em>manufactory</em> which supplies all
+European, and the greater part of Asiatic Turkey with these
+guardians of female virtue, is at Zawyet ed-deyr (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">زويت الدير</span>), a village near Siout in
+Upper Egypt, chiefly inhabited by Christians. The operators, during
+my stay in that part of the country, were two Coptic monks, who
+were said to excel all their predecessors in dexterity, and who had
+a house in which the victims were received. Their profession is
+held in contempt even by the vilest Egyptians; but they are
+protected by the government, to which they pay an annual tax; and
+the great profits which accrue to the owners of the slaves in
+consequence of their undergoing this cruel operation, tempts them
+to consent to an act which many of them in their hearts abhor. The
+operation itself, however extraordinary it may appear, very seldom
+proves fatal. I know certainly, that of sixty boys upon whom it was
+performed in the autumn of 1813, two only died; and every person
+whom I questioned on the subject in Siout assured me that even this
+was above the usual proportion, the deaths being seldom more than
+two in a hundred. As the greater number undergo the operation
+immediately after the arrival of the Darfour and Sennaar caravans
+at Siout, I had no opportunity of witnessing it, but it has been
+described to me by several persons who have often seen it
+performed. The boys chosen, are between the age of eight and twelve
+years, for at a more advanced age, there is great risk of
+its<span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">[330]</span> proving
+fatal.—Puer, corpore depresso, a robustis quibusdam hominibus,
+super mensâ continetur. Tunc emasculator, vinculis sericis sapone
+illitis, genitalia comprimit, et cum cultro tonsorio (dum puer pro
+dolore animo deficit) quam celerrime rescindit. Ad hemorhagiam
+sistendam plagam pulvere et arenâ calidâ adurunt, et post aliquot
+dies calido oleo inungunt. Dein vulnus cum emplastro aliquo, quod
+inter Coptos arcanum est, per quadraginta spatium dierum donec
+glutinetur curatur. Nunquam de celotomia sub hoc cœlo audivi.—The
+operation is always performed upon the strongest and best looking
+boys; but it has a visible effect upon their features when they
+arrive at full age. The faces of the eunuchs whom I saw in the
+Hedjaz, appeared almost destitute of flesh, the eye hollow, the
+cheek bones prominent, and the whole physiognomy having a
+skeleton-like appearance, by which the eunuch may generally be
+recognised at first sight.</p>
+
+<p>A youth on whom this operation has been successfully performed
+is worth one thousand piastres at Siout; he had probably cost his
+master, a few weeks before, about three hundred; and the Copt is
+paid from forty-five to sixty for his operation. This enormous
+profit stifles every sentiment of mercy which the traders might
+otherwise entertain. About one hundred and fifty eunuchs are made
+annually. Two years ago, Mohammed Aly Pasha caused two hundred
+young Darfour slaves to be mutilated, whom he sent as a present to
+the Grand Signor. The custom of keeping eunuchs has greatly
+diminished in Egypt, as well as in Syria. In the former country,
+except in the harems of the Pasha and his sons, I do not think that
+more than three hundred could be found; and they are still more
+uncommon in Syria. In these countries there is great danger in the
+display of wealth, and the individual<span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">[331]</span> who keeps so many female slaves as to
+require an eunuch for their guardian, becomes a tempting object to
+the rapacity of the government. White eunuchs are extremely rare in
+the Turkish dominions. In Arabia I have seen several Indian eunuchs
+of a sallow or cadaverous complexion, and I was informed that
+slaves are often mutilated in Hindostan. Almost all the eunuchs of
+Siout are sent to Constantinople and Asia Minor.<a id="FNanchor_131"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_131">[41]</a></p>
+
+<p>Among the slave girls who arrive at Shendy and Siout, there are
+several who are called <span class="arabic" lang="ar">مُخَيَّط</span> Mukhaeyt (consutæ), from an
+operation<a id="FNanchor_132"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_132">[42]</a> which has been described by Mr.
+Browne.<a id="FNanchor_133"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_133">[43]</a> I am unable to state
+whether it is performed by their parents in their native
+country,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_332">[332]</span> or by the
+merchants, but I have reason to believe by the latter. Girls in
+this state are worth more than others; they are usually given to
+the favourite mistress or slave of the purchaser, and are often
+suffered to remain in this state during the whole of their
+life.</p>
+
+<p>The daughters of the Arabs Ababde, and Djaafere, who are of
+Arabian origin, and inhabit the western bank of the Nile from
+Thebes, as high as the cataracts, and generally those of all the
+people to the south of Kenne and Esne as far as Sennaar, undergo
+circumcision, or rather excision,<a id="FNanchor_134"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_134">[44]</a> at the age of from three to six years. Girls
+thus treated are also called Mukhaeyt (مخيط), but their state is
+quite different from that of the Negroe slave-girls, just
+mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>The treatment which the slaves experience from the traders is
+rather kind than otherwise. The slaves are generally taught to call
+their masters Abouy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابوي</span>, my
+father, and to consider themselves as their children. They are
+seldom flogged, are well fed, are not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_333">[333]</span> over-worked, and are spoken to in a kind
+manner; all this, however, results not from humanity in the
+traders, but from an apprehension that under different treatment
+the slave would abscond; and they are aware that any attempt to
+prevent his flight by close confinement would injure his health;
+for the newly imported slaves delight in the open air, and
+reluctantly enter houses, which they look upon as prisons. But when
+they are once in the desert, on the way to their final destination,
+this treatment is entirely changed; the traders knowing that the
+slaves have no longer any means of escaping, give a loose to their
+savage temper. At Shendy I often overheard my companions, who,
+although savage enough, were certainly not of the worst class of
+slave-merchants, say to each other, when a slave had behaved ill,
+and they were afraid of punishing him, “Let him only pass Berber,
+and the Korbadj will soon teach him obedience.” The Souakin traders
+with whom I afterwards travelled, shewed as little humanity, after
+we had passed Taka. The health of the slave, however, is always
+attended to; he is regularly fed, and receives his share of water
+on the road at the same time that his master drinks; and the
+youngest and most delicate of the females are permitted to ride
+upon camels, while all the others perform the journey on foot,
+whether it be to Egypt or to Souakin, as they had done from Darfour
+to Shendy. The hardiness of the young slaves is very extraordinary;
+after several successive days march at the rate of ten or twelve
+hours a day, I have seen them, in the evening, after supper,
+playing together as if they had enjoyed a long rest. Females with
+children on their backs follow the caravan on foot; and if a camel
+breaks down the owner generally loads his slaves with the packages.
+If a boy can only obtain in the evening a little butter with his
+Dhourra bread, and some grease every two or three days, to smear
+his body and hair, he is contented,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_334">[334]</span> and never complains of fatigue. Another
+cause which induces the merchants to treat the slaves well, is
+their anxiety to dissipate that horror which the Negroes all
+entertain of Egypt and of the white people. It is a common opinion
+in the black slave countries that the Oulad er-Rif<a id="FNanchor_135"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_135">[45]</a> (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ولد
+الريف</span>), or children of Rif, as the Egyptians are there
+called, devour the slaves, who are transferred thither for that
+purpose.<a id="FNanchor_136"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_136">[46]</a> Of course the traders do every thing in their
+power to destroy this belief, but notwithstanding all their
+endeavours, it is never eradicated from the minds of the slaves.
+Another terrible apprehension which they have is of a small jumping
+animal, which they are told will live upon their skin, suck their
+blood, and leave them not a moment’s rest. By this description they
+mean fleas, which are entirely unknown in the interior parts of
+Soudan, and of which the most curious stories are told by the
+people of the country, in enumerating the superior advantages of
+their own country over those of Egypt. Other vermin however, more
+to be dreaded than fleas, are too common among them. The fear of
+being mutilated on their arrival in Egypt operates powerfully also
+upon the minds of the young slaves.</p>
+
+<p>Slave boys are always allowed complete liberty within the yard
+of the house; but the grown up males, whose characters
+cannot<span class="pagenum" id="Page_335">[335]</span> be depended
+upon, or whose dispositions are unknown, are kept in close
+confinement, well watched, and often chained. On the journey they
+are tied to a long pole, one end of which is fastened to a camel’s
+saddle, and the other, which is forked, is passed on each side of
+the slave’s neck, and tied behind with a strong cord, so as to
+prevent him from drawing out his head; in addition to this, his
+right hand is also fastened to the pole at a short distance from
+the head, thus leaving only his legs and left arm at liberty; in
+this manner he marches the whole day behind the camel; at night he
+is taken from the pole and put in irons. While on my route to
+Souakin I saw several slaves carried along in this way. Their
+owners were afraid of their escaping, or of becoming themselves the
+objects of their vengeance: and in this manner they would continue
+to be confined until sold to a master, who, intending to keep them,
+would endeavour to attach them to his person. In general the
+traders seem greatly to dread the effects of sudden resentment in
+their slaves; and if a grown up boy is only to be whipped, his
+master first puts him in irons.</p>
+
+<p>It is not uncommon to hear of a slave-dealer selling his own
+children born of Negroe women; and instances occur daily of their
+disposing of female slaves who are pregnant by them; in such cases
+the future child of course becomes the property of the purchaser.
+Most of the traders have old slaves who have been for many years in
+their service; these are placed over the young slaves bought in
+trade, and become very useful in travelling; but even these too I
+have seen their masters sell, after they had become members as it
+were of the family, merely because a high price was offered for
+them. It is in vain to expect in a slave trader any trace of
+friendship, gratitude, or compassion.</p>
+
+<p>Slave girls are every where thirty per cent. dearer than males
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_336">[336]</span> the same age.
+They are called in these countries Khademe (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خادمه</span>) and not Djarye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جاريه</span>), as in Egypt. The finest of them are kept by the
+traders themselves, and are called Serrye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سرّيه</span>); their masters allow these girls great
+liberty, which they often abuse. It is falsely asserted by the
+caravan traders in Egypt, that it is a custom among them to respect
+the chastity of the handsomest female slaves; on the contrary, the
+traders do not observe the slightest decorum in their intercourse
+with the slave-girls. During our journey to Souakin, where the
+caravan often encamped, on account of the apprehension of danger,
+in one large circle, I frequently witnessed scenes of the most
+shameless indecency, which the traders, who were the principal
+actors, only laughed at. I may venture to state (whatever may be
+the opinion at Cairo), that very few female slaves who have passed
+their tenth year, reach Egypt or Arabia in a state of virginity.
+The grandees, and rich people of those countries, take care never
+to buy grown up females from the traders, except for servants; but
+they often purchase very young girls, whom they educate among their
+women.</p>
+
+<p>Young slaves are bought upon trial; at Shendy one day’s trial is
+allowed, in Egypt three days are usually granted. Girls are often
+delivered in this manner for Tadjrebat leilat (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تجربة ليلة</span>), as it is called, and the purchaser
+may return a girl without alleging any other reason than that he
+dislikes her, so little do these savages care about cherishing a
+sense of shame or honour in their female slaves, who, of course,
+whenever they remain any length of time in a trader’s hands,
+acquire the most depraved habits. Sometimes young slaves are sold
+under the express condition that they shall not be returned.</p>
+
+<p>There are certain defects (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عيوب</span> Aayoub), which if met with in the male slave
+authorize the purchaser to return him, even so long<span class="pagenum" id="Page_337">[337]</span> as a fortnight after he has
+bought him, unless, in making the bargain, he has renounced this
+right. Of these defects the principal are; 1. snoring at night,
+which is considered as a capital defect; 2. si mingit dormiens; 3.
+grinding and rubbing the teeth upon each other during sleep; this
+is much disliked, from an idea that the boy who does so will never
+become attached to his master; 4. any disease which has not been
+completely cured, or recurs while in the hands of the purchaser, as
+intermittent fever, itch, &amp;c. &amp;c. In buying a slave it is
+carefully observed, and enquired, whether or not he has had the
+small-pox; those who have not had it sell for less than the others.
+Traders have told me, that in Darfour and Kordofan, one-fifth upon
+an average of the young slaves die of the small-pox.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the traders engage their female slaves to turn their
+beauty to profit, which they afterwards share with them. In our
+caravan one of my companions openly sold the favours of one of his
+females for two measures of Dhourra, of which he always received
+one. This man also, when a favourite little slave girl died during
+our stay at Shendy, with the utmost indifference ordered the body,
+after stripping it of every rag of Dammour, to be laid on an ass
+and carried to the Nile to be thrown in. It is true, indeed, that
+slaves are very seldom buried, the corpse being usually thrown into
+the river.</p>
+
+<p>The merchants take great care to prevent any improper
+intercourse between the slaves themselves, always separating the
+boys from the girls at night; this is not so much done from
+jealousy, as because the pregnancy of the females diminishes their
+value. It frequently occurs however, notwithstanding all their
+vigilance; and it is generally found that every female has some
+favourite among her master’s slaves. It is a received opinion also
+in all the countries where the slave-trade prevails, that a female
+black conceives<span class="pagenum" id="Page_338">[338]</span>
+more readily from her intercourse with a black male, than with a
+stranger. If a female proves pregnant under these circumstances, no
+means are left untried by the trader who owns her, to procure
+abortion. She is compelled to swallow certain potions, which are
+supposed to have this effect; and I have several times even seen
+masters beating pregnant women in a manner, that evidently shewed
+that it was for this purpose. It is a general observation in the
+East, that a female slave, when pregnant, easily acknowledges the
+true father; and several instances have come within my own
+knowledge, where such an avowal, which they might easily have
+avoided, has subjected them to great hardship. In Egypt, where
+almost every family keeps a couple of slave servants, abortion is
+still more common, and is considered as being far from a criminal
+act. The favourite females are often admitted by their masters to
+the Bouza, or drinking parties, where the great joke is to
+intoxicate the girls.</p>
+
+<p>What I have seen and heard of the Negroes has made me conceive a
+very indifferent opinion of their general character; but I ought to
+add that I have not yet seen them in their native countries, before
+they fell into the hands of these vile traders, who would spoil the
+mildest and most amiable dispositions. I have found, however, very
+few instances of slaves being sincerely attached to their masters,
+even when well treated by them. Their general vice is an
+incorrigible stubbornness and haughtiness of temper, and many of
+them betray a deadly rancour and spirit of revenge; but in general
+the treacherous disposition discernible in the children even of the
+free Arabs of the Nile and of Nubia, is certainly not to be found
+among them. They are lazy and slovenly, and will not work but when
+forced to do so. They seem to be almost entirely devoid of every
+feeling but that of gratifying their appetites; and provided
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_339">[339]</span> slave is well
+fed, and receives a regular allowance of butter and meat, and of
+grease to besmear his body, he cares little for the stripes or
+curses he receives. The merchants say: “Never trust a black slave;
+whip him well, and feed him well, and the work will be done”
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">لا تامن العبد اضربه و اطعمه فتشوف
+الحاجه مقضيه</span>). I know not whether the maxim is founded in
+truth or not, but it is certainly that by which the merchants are
+guided, when they are no longer afraid of their slaves escaping.
+The slaves, nevertheless, whether from strength of mind, or from a
+brutal apathy, manifest the same propensity to mirth and frolic. In
+intellect, I think they are much upon a level with the Negroe
+Arabs, and little lower than the inhabitants of Egypt and Syria;
+nor should I much blame their obstinacy, if it were not too often
+accompanied by malignity. I have already observed that different
+characters are assigned to different countries, and all that I
+observed of them has not diminished my belief, that with proper
+education the Black nations might be taught to approach, and,
+<em>perhaps</em>, to equal the white.</p>
+
+<p>Though the slaves endure the greatest fatigue, they are not of a
+hardier constitution than Europeans; indeed, I have reason to
+believe that, upon the whole, they are more frequently attacked by
+diseases; when ill, they certainly endure them much less patiently.
+It is a saying among the traders that “a blow (i. e. illness) which
+scarcely makes an Arab stagger, knocks down a slave.” The most
+common disease among them is inflammatory fever, to which the
+people of Shendy also are very subject. The remedies applied by
+them are cupping on the legs, and a drink made of infusion of
+tamarinds, but the disorder carries off great numbers of the
+slaves, and especially those who have endured a fatiguing journey,
+which is, perhaps, chiefly owing to their exposing themselves to
+currents of air while perspiring, and to their sleeping the whole
+night quite naked. I heard many people complain of bile, which is
+occasioned, perhaps, by their immoderate<span class="pagenum" id="Page_340">[340]</span> use of the ill-fermented Bouza. Piles
+(Bouassir, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">بواسير</span>) are very
+common among the country people, less among the slaves. The only
+remedy they know or practise for it is cauterising, by the
+application of a red-hot iron to the parts. I first saw here the
+Fertit, or genuine Guinea worm, although it is not unknown among
+the slaves, and Soudan merchants who come to Upper Egypt. It seems
+very common in Soudan, and I also saw it in Arabia. The worm does
+not attach itself exclusively to the leg; I have seen it issuing
+from the arm, the breast, and the knees, though its favourite place
+seems to be the calf of the leg. Persons are more rarely attacked
+with it in Shendy than in Kordofan and Darfour; and great numbers
+of the slaves and traders coming from the two latter places are
+affected by it. Though it occasions great pain, it does not prevent
+the sufferer from walking until the very approach of death. I have
+been shown persons who had been repeatedly attacked by it, but who
+had always had the good fortune to descry the worm breaking through
+the skin, when they were able, with patience, to draw it entirely
+out; for it proves mortal only when it does not issue through the
+skin, or when, having issued, it is afterwards broken off in the
+act of drawing out. Even in the latter case many persons are cured.
+In Kordofan and Darfour the attack of the Fertit is universally
+ascribed to the animal matter contained in the water which is drank
+after the first rains.</p>
+
+<p>In Soudan it is rare that male slaves are emancipated (Maatoug
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">معتوق</span>), but we find many
+females who have obtained their liberty. It is different in Arabia
+and in Egypt, where a slave very seldom remains in a respectable
+family for a series of years without being made free; and then he
+is either married to a female slave of the family, or remains
+voluntarily as a servant, and receives wages. It is a general
+custom in these latter countries to emancipate every female slave
+who has borne a child to her master. It is then considered
+discreditable, especially if the child is a male, not to
+present<span class="pagenum" id="Page_341">[341]</span> the mother
+with the Tezkeret el Nekah (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تزكرة
+النكاح</span>), or the marriage contract, signed by the Kadhi,
+which is the only marriage ceremony used on those occasions. If the
+child dies after this marriage, it is not considered improper to
+divorce such a wife, but provision must in that case be made for
+her. As the number of wives is limited by the Mussulman law to
+four, it sometimes happens that the rich people keep, besides their
+four wives, several of these emancipated female slaves, who live
+with them as mistresses.</p>
+
+<p>Slavery, in the East, has little dreadful in it but the name;
+male slaves are every where treated much like the children of the
+family, and always better than the free servants. It is thought a
+mean action to sell a slave after he has been long resident in a
+family. If a slave behaves ill, he is generally sent into the
+country to work as a labourer in the fields of his master. Female
+slaves who are servants in families, are not so well off as males,
+because they generally suffer much from the jealousy of their
+mistresses. It is only by the Turkish soldiers that slaves are
+ill-treated. They purchase, in Upper Egypt, slave boys, whom they
+rear in their service, and who, after they have come to a certain
+age, and learned the Turkish language, are clothed and armed as
+soldiers, and enlisted into the company or corps of which their
+master is the chief. He then draws the monthly pay of his slave
+from the governor, as he does that of every other soldier; for,
+according to the regulations of the Turkish army, the captain, or
+Binbashy, receives the pay for the number of men whom he has under
+his command, and distributes it among them. It thus becomes a
+source of emolument to him to enrol slaves, to whose services the
+government never objects, and whose pay goes into his own pocket,
+as he is subject only to the obligation of feeding and clothing
+them. Great numbers of Black soldiers have, in this manner, been
+introduced into the Turkish army in Egypt; it was even thought that
+Mohammed Aly Pasha<span class="pagenum" id="Page_342">[342]</span>
+had formed the plan of organizing a body of Black troops, and of
+drilling them according to the European manner; but the great
+dislike to this innovation expressed by his principal officers,
+appears to have made him abandon it. At present, from six to eight
+hundred slaves are bought up annually by the Turkish officers in
+Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>In the southern countries a slave brought up in the family (I do
+not here speak of the traders) thinks himself superior to every
+other person in it except the master: he is admitted to all the
+family councils, is allowed to trade, or to engage in any other
+business on his own account, and to do just as he pleases, provided
+he proves a bold fellow, and in case of emergency can wield a sword
+in his master’s defence; he may then misbehave at pleasure, without
+the fear of punishment. If a slave kills a free man his master is
+obliged to pay the price of blood, otherwise his own family becomes
+exposed to the retaliation of the relations of the slain; for the
+death of a slave who commits murder is not deemed a sufficient
+atonement for the blood of a free man.</p>
+
+<p>In Arabia and Egypt the law gives to the slaves one great
+advantage; if they are discontented with their master, and
+decidedly determined not to remain with him, they have the right of
+insisting upon being sent to the public slave market, (Beaéni fi
+Souk el Sultaun, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">بيعني في سوق
+السلطان</span>), to be resold. The owner may at first refuse to
+part with his slave, but if, having overcome the fear of exposing
+himself to the effects of his master’s rage, the slave finds an
+opportunity of making his demand, in presence of respectable
+witnesses, and perseveres in this conduct, he must at last effect
+his purpose. Some slaves are less able to take advantage of this
+privilege, which the law grants to all, from being shut up in the
+harem, where no one hears their complaints except those who are the
+cause of them.</p>
+
+<p>According to the most moderate calculation, the number
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_343">[343]</span> slaves actually
+in Egypt is forty thousand, two-thirds of which number are males,
+and the rest females. There is hardly a village in which several of
+them are not found, and every person of property keeps at least
+one. During the plague in the spring of 1815, upwards of eight
+thousand slaves were reported to the government to have died in
+Cairo alone. I have reason to believe, however, that the numbers
+exported from Soudan to Egypt and Arabia, bears only a small
+proportion to those kept by the Mussulmans of the southern
+countries themselves, or in other words to the whole number yearly
+derived by purchase, or by force, from the nations in the interior
+of Africa. At Berber and Shendy there is scarcely a house which
+does not possess one or two slaves, and five or six are frequently
+seen in the same family, occupied in the labours of the field,
+tending cattle, &amp;c. &amp;c.; the great people and chiefs keep
+them by dozens. As high up the Nile as Sennaar the same system
+prevails, as well as westwards to Kordofan, Darfour, and thence
+towards Bournou. All the Bedouin tribes also who surround those
+countries are well stocked with slaves. If we may judge of their
+numbers by those kept on the borders of the Nile, (and I was
+assured by the traders, that slaves were more numerous in those
+distant countries than even at Shendy,) it is evident that the
+number exported towards Egypt, Arabia, and Barbary, is very greatly
+below what remains within the limits of Soudan. From what fell
+under my own observation at Berber and Shendy, I believe that the
+slaves of both sexes on the borders of the Nile from Berber to
+Sennaar, amount to not less than twelve thousand. As the population
+of Darfour, according to Mr. Browne, is two hundred thousand, there
+are probably twenty thousand slaves in that kingdom; and every
+account agrees in proving that as we proceed farther westward into
+the populous countries of Dar Saley, Bournou, Bagermé, and the
+kingdoms of Afnou<span class="pagenum" id="Page_344">[344]</span>
+and Haoussa, the proportion of the slave population does not
+diminish.</p>
+
+<p>The laudable efforts made in Europe, and particularly by
+England, to abolish the slave trade, will, no doubt, in time,
+extend a beneficial influence over the Negroe countries of Western
+and South-western Africa, from whence slaves have hitherto been
+drawn for the supply of the European traders; but there does not
+appear to be the smallest hope of the abolition of slavery in
+Africa itself. Were all the outlets of Soudan closed to the slave
+trade, and the caravans which now carry on the traffic with
+Barbary, Egypt, and Arabia, prevented from procuring further
+supplies, still slavery would universally prevail in Soudan itself;
+for as long as those countries are possessed by Mussulmans, whose
+religion induces them to make war upon the idolatrous Negroes,
+whose domestic wants require a constant supply of servants and
+shepherds, and who considering slaves as a medium of exchange in
+lieu of money, are as eager to obtain them as other nations might
+be to explore the African mines, slavery must continue to exist in
+the heart of Africa; nor can it cease until the Negroes shall
+become possessed of the means of repelling the attacks and
+resisting the oppression of their Mussulman neighbours. It is not
+from foreign nations that the Blacks can hope for deliverance; this
+great work must be effected by themselves, and can be the result
+only of successful resistance. The European governments, who have
+settlements on the coasts of Africa, may contribute to it by
+commerce, and by the introduction among the Negroes of arts and
+industry, which must ultimately lead them to a superiority over the
+Mussulmans in war. Europe, therefore, will have done but little for
+the Blacks, if the abolition of the Atlantic slave trade, which is
+trifling, when compared with the slavery of the interior, is not
+followed up by some wise and grand plan, tending to the
+civilization of the continent.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_345">[345]</span> None presents a fairer prospect than the
+education of the sons of Africa in their own country, and by their
+own countrymen, previously educated by Europeans. Faint hopes,
+however, can be entertained that the attention of European
+governments will be turned towards the remote and despised Negroes,
+while selfishness and a mistaken policy have prevented them from
+attending to the instruction of their own poor.</p>
+
+<p>What I have said on the manners of Berber is applicable, in
+every respect, to Shendy, where the habits of the people are
+equally dissolute. The chief of Shendy, however, possesses much
+more power than the Mek of Berber, and keeps the violence and
+rapacity of his subjects in check. The inhabitants of the district
+are all free Arabs; of these the Djaalein are the most numerous,
+and next to them the following: 1. Ababde, who pretend to be
+descended from the same Djidd (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جِدّ</span>) or forefather as those of Egypt; namely, Selman,
+an Arab of the Beni Helal, the great eastern tribe which emigrated
+into the northern parts of Africa, as far as Tunis, after the
+Mohammedan conquest; 2. Battakhein (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بطخين</span>); 3. El Hamdeh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الحامده</span>); these, I understand, are acknowledged as
+relations by the Arabs of the same name who inhabit the
+neighbourhood of Luxor and Karnak, in Upper Egypt; Luxor has hence
+received the name of El Hamdye, and is more generally known in
+Upper Egypt by that appellation. The several tribes are constantly
+quarrelling with each other, chiefly respecting the retaliation of
+blood, to which, among the eastern Bedouins, the near relations are
+liable; but it appears to me that those nice distinctions which I
+have detailed in my description of the Bedouins, are not here
+attended to. Among the Djaalein the price of blood is one thousand
+Tob Dammour, equivalent, at the present time, to three or four
+hundred Spanish dollars. If the relations of the slain agree to
+take it, which seems to expose them to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_346">[346]</span> less obloquy than a similar action does in
+Arabia, the murderer pays the sum by instalments; a regular account
+is kept, and credit given for the smallest sum paid to the family
+of the deceased by the murderer or his family, even if it be no
+more than a little bread, or a few handfuls of Dhourra. Many years
+may pass before the whole sum is paid, and during this time the
+parties keep the peace.</p>
+
+<p>The Djaalein have the character of being treacherous, but this
+is common to all the Arabs of these countries; and they have not
+yet so much degenerated from their forefathers, as not to know that
+good faith is held the first of Arab virtues: I have often heard
+the Djaalein boast of their sincerity to those to whom they have
+pledged their word as friends or companions; but this character,
+which they give of themselves, is not confirmed by the general
+opinion.<a id="FNanchor_137"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_137">[47]</a></p>
+
+<p>All these Arabs have two tribes of mortal enemies, the Shukorye
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شُكُريه</span>) and the Kouahel
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قواحل</span>), names which are both
+Arabic in their formation. They inhabit to the south and south-west
+of the others, and make frequent inroads upon the Djaalein,
+plundering the country, and driving off the cattle. Some of the
+Shukorye live on the banks of the Nile near Abou Heraze, but the
+greater part of them lead a pastoral life in the Eastern desert.
+The Kouahel are said to extend as far as the country of Dender, and
+some of them are found on the Atbara. Both tribes speak the Arabic
+language. During my stay at Shendy the Djaalein
+returned<span class="pagenum" id="Page_347">[347]</span> from a
+successful expedition against them, bringing back a booty of two
+hundred camels taken from the hostile encampment which was then
+about four days distant from Shendy. In the Syrian and Arabian
+deserts in like manner, there is scarcely an Arab tribe of any
+importance which has not a national enemy in some equally powerful
+tribe; the warlike spirit and rivalship of the young men of both
+parties being kept up by continual expeditions against each other.
+These, however, seldom occur between tribes who are immediate
+neighbours: among whom although war often happens, it is generally
+soon succeeded by peace and alliance.</p>
+
+<p>All the Arabs of the southern countries, excepting those who
+inhabit the valley of the Nile, besides their daily movements from
+one spot to another, make two general movements in the year. In the
+summer they retire towards the mountains, where springs and
+pasturage are more abundant than in the parched plains; during the
+rains they spread themselves, with their flocks, over the wide
+expanse between the Atbara and the Nile, which in that season is
+clothed with abundant pasturage. The Kouahel are said to be less
+numerous but more powerful than the Shukorye; they are both,
+nominally at least, Mohammedans; it is said that their cattle is
+admirable.</p>
+
+<p>Though I remained only a month at Shendy, and in a situation not
+at all favourable for such inquiries, some geographical information
+respecting the surrounding countries may reasonably be expected
+from me. In the Appendix will be found some details of this kind
+respecting the <em>western</em> countries, which, however, are the
+less interesting as Mr. Browne has already elucidated the geography
+of those parts. Of the countries to the <em>south</em> I was
+unfortunately unable to obtain any information, nor of those
+between Shendy and Habbesh, to the eastward. This was not
+owing<span class="pagenum" id="Page_348">[348]</span> to indolence
+or indifference; but to my situation with the caravan, which
+rendered it extremely difficult for me to take any notes whatever.
+Surrounded on all sides by curious observers of my conduct, and
+having no other protection than that which poverty gives, I knew
+that if suspicion was once excited, it would end in my ruin.
+Accurate and detailed statements of positions and distances could
+only have been acquired by expressly questioning the traders on
+this head; but nobody showed any inclination so far to oblige a
+person from whom no profit was to be derived, and to have
+paid<a id="FNanchor_138"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_138">[48]</a> for information would
+have rendered me a subject of conversation and enquiry through the
+whole town, where I was already but too conspicuous an object. I
+often indeed attempted to entice people from Sennaar into familiar
+conversation, by sitting down near them, and filling their pipes
+with my own tobacco; but they soon got tired of my questions
+concerning the southern countries, and put the strangest
+constructions upon them. Such information, therefore, I could only
+have derived from casual conversations during a long stay. Had I
+been known as a Frank traveller, like Bruce in Abyssinia, and
+Browne in Darfour, I might have made the best use of my leisure
+time, without thereby indangering my person much more than it would
+otherwise have been. But my case was different: I had succeeded in
+keeping my secret: I had still a very dangerous road before me, nor
+could I ever have hoped to reach the sea, had any suspicions been
+excited concerning my travelling projects; at least such was my
+firm belief. In asserting that I was unknown, I do not mean to
+claim the merit of extraordinary prudence, but merely to inform the
+reader upon what<span class="pagenum" id="Page_349">[349]</span>
+depended my success.<a id="FNanchor_139"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_139">[49]</a> I must be allowed to add, that if future
+travellers should hear me described, in these countries, as a
+Frank, they will have no right to disbelieve on that account the
+other parts of my personal history during this journey. For
+although the people of Daraou will undoubtedly at last discover who
+the poor man was who travelled with them, I was certainly unknown
+during the journey.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Browne, in the course of his two years residence at Darfour,
+collected highly valuable information concerning the Negroe
+countries surrounding that kingdom, but I have little doubt, that
+the bad opinion which the Darfour people entertained of him, was
+owing in great part to such enquiries. The same thing would have
+happened to him in any other part of Soudan, had he been permitted
+to quit Darfour, and it must ultimately have frustrated all his
+views. This remark is not made for the purpose of detracting from
+the merits of Mr. Browne, whose talent and perseverance were such
+as will seldom be found united in the same person, whose friendship
+for me I can never forget, and to whose excellent advice I owe much
+of my success. It is for the sake of those who may succeed me, that
+I make these observations. When Mr. Browne undertook his journey to
+Darfour he was not possessed of that knowledge of Arabic, and of
+Arab manners, which he afterwards acquired; unable therefore to
+attempt to pass for a native of the Levant, he never assumed any
+other name than that of a Frank, justly thinking that it would be
+more to his advantage to maintain his native character, however
+little it might be respected in those parts, than by an awkward
+imitation of native dress and manners, to expose himself to still
+worse consequences, and to the hourly dread of being
+discovered.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_350">[350]</span> But
+even as a Frank he would have been more secure in the character of
+a mercantile adventurer, than in that of a physician, which is a
+profession quite unknown in these countries. During my stay at
+Siout, in Upper Egypt, I became acquainted with a man who had seen
+Mr. Browne in Darfour, and in whose brother’s house Mr. Browne had
+spent a considerable part of his time. He told me that Mr. Browne,
+during his journey from Siout to Darfour, was busily occupied in
+writing down the daily occurrences, and in inquiring after the
+names of all the hills and valleys met with on the road; that he
+had a piece of lead, with which he wrote, and which never failed
+him. The Soltan of the English (the man observed) had undoubtedly
+sent him to inquire after these countries; and the king of Darfour
+prevented him from travelling about the country, as knowing that
+his sole motive was curiosity. The same person confirmed Mr.
+Browne’s statements respecting himself while in Darfour, of the
+veracity of which, indeed, no one, acquainted with that gentleman’s
+integrity, would ever entertain any doubt. My departed friend, who
+has fallen a noble sacrifice in the cause of truth and science,
+felt at last, that the circumstance of his taking notes had
+prevented him from succeeding to the full extent of his wishes; and
+he repeatedly advised me to use the greatest precaution in this
+respect. To an European reader such a maxim may look like
+pusillanimity, or at least excess of prudence, for it can be fully
+appreciated only by those persons who embark in such
+expeditions.</p>
+
+<p>There is no communication by water between Sennaar, Shendy, and
+Berber; boats are used only as ferries, but even these are
+extremely scarce, and the usual mode of passing the river is upon
+the Ramous, or small raft of reeds. It is usual with the native
+Arabs to call the branch of the river on which Sennaar lies, and
+which rises in Abyssinia, by the name of Nil, as well as by that of
+Bahr<span class="pagenum" id="Page_351">[351]</span> el Azrek
+(Blue-River.) Thus every one says that Sennaar is situated on the
+Nile, (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بلد سنار مبنيه علي حافيه
+النيل</span>); so far therefore Bruce is justified in styling
+himself the discoverer of the sources of the Nile. But I have often
+heard the Sennaar merchants declare, that the Bahr el Abyadh
+(White-River), which is the name invariably given to the more
+western branch, is considerably larger than the Nile. I was
+credibly informed, that between Shendy and Damour, there is a
+cataract in the river, similar to that of Assouan, and another of
+greater size and rapidity in the country of the Arabs Rebatat,
+below Berber.</p>
+
+<p>At Shendy the river, owing to the height of the banks, often
+fails to inundate the adjacent lands; and the husbandmen are too
+lazy to aid nature by digging canals. I have already said that
+Shendy depends, for its Dhourra, principally upon importations from
+the south; but during the famine last year, part of the supply was
+drawn from Taka. The rains generally begin about the middle of
+June; their season, however, seems to be less settled than in the
+western countries of Soudan. In the last days of April, some slight
+showers fell at Shendy, and in the evening much lightning was seen
+to the east. So early as the 10th of May, we were informed that the
+bed of the Mogren was filled with water, and that its stream, then
+several feet deep, emptied itself into the Nile; it was therefore
+evident that heavy rains must have fallen either towards the
+Bisharye mountains, where the Mogren rises, or towards the source
+of the Atbara, in Abyssinia; the latter is the more probable, as we
+afterwards found no traces of rains in the Bisharye desert. They do
+not appear to be very abundant, never continuing for weeks together
+without intermission, as is said to be the case in Kordofan, but
+falling at intervals, though in heavy torrents. In the northern
+desert, between Berber and Egypt, but more particularly in the
+mountainous country north of the well of Shigre, there appears to
+be no<span class="pagenum" id="Page_352">[352]</span> fixed rainy
+season: all the Egyptians and Ababdes whom I questioned on the
+subject, agreed in stating that rain falls in those mountains both
+in winter and summer, but never in great quantity. The caravans are
+always under some apprehensions of having their bales spoiled in
+crossing the desert, by an occasional shower of rain, whatever may
+be the time of year. The same information as to the nature of the
+rains was given to me during my journey up the Nile towards
+Dóngola. In the chain of mountains extending from Assouan to
+Kosseir, between the river and the Red Sea, the rain falls in like
+manner at all seasons, while to the north of the Kosseir route, and
+from thence to Suez, in the mountains of the Arabs Maazy, it is
+much more confined to the winter season. It is well known that
+showers rarely fall in the valley of the Nile, but the Delta has
+its months when the rain falls occasionally. Upper Egypt is almost
+entirely deprived of rain near the river, and thus exhibits the
+singular spectacle of continual dryness of atmosphere in the
+fertile valley, while the barren mountains, at a few hours
+distance, have their regular falls of rain. During my stay at Esne,
+in Upper Egypt, there occurred in the month of September a most
+violent shower, which lasted for two hours; the inhabitants did not
+remember having ever experienced any thing like it.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Shendy, in common with the Egyptians,
+distinguish the time of the Khamsein (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خمسين</span>), or hot wind. The word is derived from Khamsyn
+(fifty), because the winds are computed to last fifty days, from
+the 29th or 30th of April, to the 18th or 19th of June, which is
+the period of the Nokhta, or dew, when the river first begins to
+rise in Egypt. During my stay at Esne the Khamsein began on the 1st
+of May, with a suffocating hot wind. I passed the early part of the
+same period at Shendy, where we had several days of hot winds, but
+whether it was in consequence of my temperate habits, which (I have
+reason to believe) tend<span class="pagenum" id="Page_353">[353]</span> greatly to weaken the effect of immoderate
+heat, as well as cold, or whether it was owing to the climate
+itself, the heat appeared much less oppressive than during the
+Khamsein in Upper Egypt, although at Shendy I was, day and night,
+exposed to the open air, without ever entering a cool room, and
+having seldom any thing but a shed to shelter me from the mid-day
+heat. It must be recollected, however, that Shendy is upon a level
+considerably higher than that of Upper Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>The people of the countries on the Nile from Dóngola to Sennaar,
+and all the other true Arab tribes, as far as Bornou, speak no
+other language than the Arabic; and they look with disdain upon
+their western and eastern neighbours, whom they designate by the
+same epithet of Adjem,<a id="FNanchor_140"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_140">[50]</a> which the Koran bestows upon all nations who
+are strangers to the Arabic language. There exist, however, among
+them as many dialects, and as much difference in pronunciation and
+phraseology, as are found among the Arabian Bedouins. The eastern
+nations on the Atbara, towards Taka and the Red Sea, speak the
+Bisharye language, of which I have given a short
+vocabulary,<a id="FNanchor_141"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_141">[51]</a> and to the west the nearest foreign language is
+that of Kordofan, a dialect differing in pronunciation only from
+that of Four. The Arabic is well spoken in these countries, and the
+black Arabs appeared to me to possess a greater command of it, and
+to be more eloquent than their Egyptian brethren. The pronunciation
+is similar to that of Upper Egypt, which differs<span class="pagenum" id="Page_354">[354]</span> considerably from the
+pronunciation of Cairo and the Delta. The inhabitants of Upper
+Egypt, to the south of Siout, are in fact ancient Bedouin tribes,
+and their idiom appears to me the purest, next to that of Arabia
+proper. The pronunciation indeed is Egyptian, but the terms and
+phraseology are, for the most part, borrowed from the language of
+the Hedjaz, and Yemen, as I fully convinced myself afterwards,
+during my stay at Djidda and Mekka. The southern Arabs use many
+expressions foreign to the language, and which have been introduced
+perhaps by their intimate connexion with the Negroes. They have a
+great number of technical terms, which seem to be derived from the
+Abyssinian, and others from the Bisharye and Negroe languages.</p>
+
+<p>The Djaalein particularly value themselves upon speaking their
+language well. I have heard Arabs of the tribe of Beni Hassan, who
+pasture their flocks in the Bahr el Ghazal, speaking much the same
+dialect as the Djaalein, and, as I particularly observed, without
+any tincture of the Moggrebyn. This circumstance makes it very
+probable, that they are of eastern, and not western origin. In the
+same manner there are numerous tribes of Arabs in Darfour and
+Kordofan, who still retain the language of their forefathers,
+although they speak also the idiom of the country. Few persons
+among the Arab tribes know how to write and read, but all express
+themselves with great neatness, and often very eloquently; and
+poets are not rare among them. Like the eastern Arabs, they
+celebrate the praises of their warriors in the Kaszyde
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قصيده</span>);<a id="FNanchor_142"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_142">[52]</a> these are not written down, but are
+transmitted<span class="pagenum" id="Page_355">[355]</span> orally
+from one to another; and although they may often fail in
+grammatical accuracy, the measure of the verse is always
+scrupulously attended to. The melodies of their songs appear not to
+be national, for the songs of the Arabs (I do not mean the
+Bedouins), whether in Mesopotamia, Syria, Arabia or Egypt, retain
+amidst their varieties a common character, whereas the melodies of
+the Moggrebyns as well as of the Negroe Arabs are quite different.
+Those of the latter seem to originate with the Bisharye Bedouins,
+whose national airs approach much nearer to them than those of the
+Egyptians. The Ababde Bedouins have borrowed the melodies of their
+songs entirely from the Bisharein, and they sing in Upper Egypt the
+same airs, which I heard again at Shendy from the Sennaar
+merchants, over their Bouza. There is however, one species of song
+common to all these nations; I mean the Hedou (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حدو</span>), or song with which they animate their camels
+on the march, especially during the night; it is the favourite air
+of all the Bedouins in the Arabian deserts, and I have heard it on
+the banks of the Euphrates as well as on those of the Atbara. Among
+the peculiarities of all these people, is a very common practice of
+smacking with the tongue, when denying, or refusing any thing, and
+the same, but in a sharper or higher tone, as a sign of affirmation
+or approbation. In Turkey and Arabia this is considered as an
+affront, or at least as a most vulgar habit; they also snap the
+fingers at the person of whom they demand any thing, as equivalent
+to saying “Give me.”</p>
+
+<p>The people of Shendy know little of musical instruments, however
+fond they may be of songs. The lyre (Tamboura) and a kind of fife
+with a dismal sound, made of the hollow Dhourra stalk,
+are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_356">[356]</span> the only
+instruments I saw, except the kettle-drum. This appears to be all
+over Soudan an appendage of royalty; and when the natives wish to
+designate a man of power, they often say the Nogára (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نُقاره</span>) beats before his house. At Shendy
+the Mek’s kettle-drums were beaten regularly every afternoon before
+his house. A favourite pastime of the Negroe Arabs, and which is
+also known among the Arabs of Upper Egypt, is the Syredje
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سيرجه</span>), a kind of draughts;
+it is played upon sandy ground, on which they trace with the finger
+chequers of forty-nine squares; the pieces, on one side, are round
+balls of camel’s dung, picked up in the street, and on the other
+those of goats. It is an intricate game, and requires great
+attention; the object is to take all the antagonist’s pieces, but
+the rules are very different from those of Polish draughts. The
+people are uncommonly fond of the game, two persons seldom sitting
+down together without immediately beginning to draw squares in the
+sand. The Mek himself will play with the lowest slave, if the
+latter is reputed a good player. If a bye-stander assists one of
+the parties with his advice, it gives no offence to the other;
+sometimes they play for a gourd of Bouza, but not usually. Chess is
+not quite unknown here, but I never met with any one who played
+it.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing unpleasant occurred to me during my stay at Shendy. The
+Ababdes with whom I lodged, although they did not shew me great
+kindness, yet forbore to treat me with rudeness; this was all I
+demanded. Their society served as a protection, for my person soon
+became conspicuous throughout the town, and I took care to let
+every one know that I belonged to the respected party of Ababde
+guides. Our house and court-yard were soon filled with slaves and
+camels: we separated into different messes, and every one delivered
+a daily ration of Dhourra to the female slaves, who cooked for the
+mess; we defrayed all our common expenses with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_357">[357]</span> Dhourra. Every evening some of my
+companions had a Bouza party; the day was spent in commercial
+pursuits. Soon after our arrival, in order to conciliate the
+Ababdes, I bought a young sheep, and had it killed for their
+entertainment, and I always kept my tobacco pouch well supplied for
+their use. I attended the market regularly, and courted the
+acquaintance of some Fakys, whose protection I thought might prove
+useful to me against the ill-will which my former companions from
+Daraou never failed to manifest towards me whenever we met. The son
+of my old friend of Daraou, to whom I had been most particularly
+recommended by his father, went so far as once to spit in my face
+in the public market-place, because I pressed him for the payment
+of a small sum which I had lent him, and which he denied with a
+solemn oath having ever received from me; indeed I never met any of
+these Egyptians in the streets without receiving some insulting
+language from them, of which, had I taken notice, they would, no
+doubt, have carried me before the Mek, where their superior
+influence might have been attended with the worst consequences to
+me. It was to them, as I afterwards learnt, that I was indebted for
+the loss of my gun; and I do not know what they might have
+attempted further, had I not fallen upon an expedient which was
+attended with the happiest effects. They had always thought that I
+intended to proceed straight to Sennaar, for I had never informed
+any one that I was bound direct to the Red Sea. They became
+anxious, in consequence of their own behaviour to me, that I should
+never return to Egypt, where I might be able to call them to an
+account, and where, though they certainly did not know it, a word
+from me to Ibrahim Pasha, who then governed Upper Egypt, would have
+been of the most serious consequences to them. They endeavoured
+therefore to prepare my ruin, by spreading the most injurious
+reports of me among the Sennaar merchants, whom they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_358">[358]</span> supposed that I should
+accompany; they represented me to be possessed of wealth, which I
+had fraudulently acquired in Egypt; and they urged that it would be
+an act of justice towards those whom I had cheated, to deprive me
+of my baggage. I had now been about three weeks at Shendy; my
+companions the Ababde having purchased a considerable number of
+slaves and camels, were preparing to return home; a Souakin caravan
+was also about to depart. Under these circumstances, I gave out
+that I had abandoned all idea of proceeding farther southward, as
+foreseeing that I should not have more than enough to defray my
+expenses beyond Sennaar. Accordingly, with the remainder of my
+funds, I bought a slave boy, and a camel, and declared that I
+intended to return to Egypt with my friends the Ababde, a course
+which they had often endeavoured to persuade me to adopt. This
+proceeding completely thwarted the plans of the Daraou people, and
+caused them suddenly to change their behaviour towards me; the
+principal man amongst them, he who struck me at Damer, repeatedly
+visited me, sent me several times a choice dish for my supper, and
+expressed his wishes that we might again meet, as good friends, in
+Egypt, for which country (he added) his party intended to set out
+soon after the Ababde, and to take guides for the journey across
+the desert from among the Ababde at Berber. In the meanwhile I made
+every preparation for my journey. I had secretly informed myself
+respecting the Souakin caravan, and on the eve of its departure,
+which happened to be two days previous to the time fixed by the
+Ababde for their return, I communicated my design to the chief of
+the latter, and by making him a small present, prevailed on him to
+accompany me to the chief of the Souakin caravan, and to recommend
+me to him, as his friend. Much ceremony is not necessary on such
+occasions; every person has his own beast of burthen, and joins at
+pleasure, whatever caravan he chooses. An<span class="pagenum" id="Page_359">[359]</span> increase of numbers is always desirable by
+the chief, as it both adds to the amount of his duties, and to the
+means of general defence.</p>
+
+<p>It was not from any apprehensions of the consequences likely to
+result from the representations of the Egyptian traders, that I was
+induced to take the route to the Red Sea. Situated as I was, there
+seemed to be no great obstacle in my way to Sennaar, nor from
+thence to Gondar and Massouah; for I knew that the Abyssinian
+traders go constantly backwards and forwards between Gondar and Ras
+el Fil, where they are met by the Sennaar merchants; and once at
+Gondar, and in the fertile valleys of Abyssinia, I should, at all
+events, have been able to beg my way to the coast. But in this case
+I should have followed the footsteps of Poncet and Bruce; and am
+persuaded that it will not be long before Abyssinia, from its
+comparatively easy access by sea, will be thoroughly explored. On
+the other hand I thought that a journey through the country between
+Shendy and the Red Sea would add new information to our knowledge
+of Ethiopia, and being full of difficulty and danger, could only be
+undertaken by a traveller who had already served a hard
+apprenticeship; I preferred therefore traversing this comparatively
+small tract of ground, which might otherwise still remain for a
+long course of years unknown. The wish to be at Mekka in the month
+of November, at the time of the pilgrimage, was another
+consideration that had a strong effect upon me. It had indeed been
+a principal object with me during all the time that I was in Upper
+Egypt, and a motive in determining me to this second journey into
+Nubia. I was then, as I still am, fully convinced, that the title
+of Hadji would afford me the most powerful recommendation and
+protection in any future journey through the interior countries of
+Africa. From Suez or Kosseir I should have found it extremely
+difficult to carry my designs into effect; in going through
+Abyssinia, I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_360">[360]</span> might
+perhaps have been detained too long on the way by land or sea to
+reach Mekka at the above-mentioned period, and I knew that if I
+should reach Mekka without being present at the ceremonies of the
+Hadj, I could not hope to pass afterwards as a true Hadji, without
+exposing myself to daily detection.</p>
+
+<p>I sold at Shendy the whole of my adventure of merchandize, and
+after paying my share of the expenses of our stay there, including
+a suitable present in money to our landlord, I bought a slave boy
+about fourteen years of age, partly for the sake of having a useful
+and constant companion, and partly to afford me an ostensible
+reason for going in the direction of the Red Sea, where I might
+sell him with profit. I still pretended to be in search of a
+relation, but added, that having experienced the difficulties of
+journeys by land through these countries, I intended to embark at
+Souakin for Massouah, and by that route to enter Abyssinia, where I
+affected to have every reason to believe that I should find my
+relation. I knew that the Souakin caravan consisted of two parties,
+one of which was bound direct to Souakin, while the other intended
+to take the route by Taka. It was with the latter that I resolved
+to proceed, and to take the chance of finding a favourable
+conveyance from Taka to Massouah.</p>
+
+<p class="space-below15">I chose my slave, who cost me sixteen
+dollars, from among a great number, and he proved to be a very good
+and serviceable boy. I also purchased a camel, for which I gave
+eleven dollars; and as my safety entirely depended upon it, I took
+care to make choice of one of the strongest. I laid in a provision
+of Abré, or dried bread, Dhourra, Dhourra meal, and butter, and
+purchased several pieces of Dammour, which I knew was much in
+demand on the way to Taka. After all my accounts were settled, I
+had four dollars left; but the smallness of this sum occasioned me
+no uneasiness, for I calculated on selling my camel on the coast
+for as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_361">[361]</span> much as
+would defray the expenses of my voyage to Djidda, and I had a
+letter of credit on that place for a considerable sum, which I had
+procured at Cairo.</p>
+
+<h3>JOURNEY FROM SHENDY TO TAKA.</h3>
+
+<p>Early in the morning of the 17th of May, the Souakin caravan
+took its departure; it had passed the precincts of the town before
+I had completely loaded my camel; while I was thus employed several
+of the Daraou people, who had just been informed of my intended
+departure, came to vent their rage at my having foiled them in
+their rancorous projects against me; it was, however, too late; I
+was beyond the reach of their malice. The Ababde accompanied me to
+a short distance beyond the town, where I took an affectionate
+leave of them, for I could not but consider that almost from the
+time of my quitting Egypt, I owed my safety entirely to their
+protection or interference; I was still to owe them farther
+obligations; for in quitting the town one of the Mek’s slaves had
+followed me, and, after I had taken leave of the Ababde, the
+caravan being then about half a mile in advance, in the plain, he
+continued to keep alongside of me. One of the Ababde seeing this,
+and observing that the slave was armed, entertained some suspicion
+of him. He therefore immediately turned back, and came up just in
+time to extricate me from the slave, who, although he had, during
+our stay at Shendy, partaken almost daily of our meals, had
+followed me for the purpose of obliging me to give up to him my
+pistol.<a id="FNanchor_143"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_143">[53]</a> He probably thought I
+should part with it, rather than expose myself to delay, and the
+consequent danger of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_362">[362]</span> joining the caravan alone. He had taken
+hold of the camel’s halter, and had already demanded the pistol,
+when the Ababde came up, and severely reprimanded him for his
+conduct. In the afternoon we arrived at El Hassa (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الحسّا</span>), a hamlet situated beyond the
+salt works and plain of Boeydha, not far from the place where we
+encamped at noon on the day of our arrival at Shendy.</p>
+
+<p><em>May 18th.</em>—We remained encamped at El Hassa the whole
+day, and were joined in the afternoon by several Souakin and Shendy
+merchants, who came to take leave of their friends. The Djaalein
+Arabs hovered about us, and endeavoured to carry off several camels
+while brouzing on the acacia leaves, under the guard of the slaves;
+this obliged me to take great care of my own camel. While driving
+it to the thickest groves of acacias, I met with some remains of
+ancient buildings close to the river, the banks of which are here
+very high. These remains consist of stone foundations of houses,
+and some brick walls; the former appear to have belonged to private
+buildings of moderate size, and consist of blocks of sandstone
+three or four feet in length, very rudely worked, and much decayed.
+The stones bear a small proportion to the brickwork; the bricks are
+of the same description as those I saw near Dawah, and form the
+walls of private dwellings. I saw no remains of any town wall, nor
+of any thing like a large edifice; the whole of what I observed
+seemed to have belonged to a small open city. The circumference of
+these ruins is eight or ten minutes walk at most; I could trace no
+regularity in their plan; they seemed to consist of small insulated
+oblong squares irregularly dispersed among the trees. Of the brick
+walls there were no where more than two feet standing above ground,
+and even this is matter for astonishment when we consider the
+effect which the annual rains must have upon such deserted and
+loosely combined structures. I could discover no other remains of
+any kind in the vicinity. There<span class="pagenum" id="Page_363">[363]</span> is a ford over the river near this place,
+which the Djaalein use for three or four months before the rise of
+the waters.</p>
+
+<p><em>May 19th.</em>—We set out this morning, and travelled along
+the eastern limits of the cultivated plain, till we reached the
+village of Kaboushye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كبوشيه</span>), the residence of a relation of the Mek of
+Shendy, about three hours from El Hassa. As we had three long days
+march to the Atbara, we filled our water-skins at the river, which
+is half an hour from the village. Just as we were starting, an
+accident happened to me, which frequently occasions great distress
+to the traveller in the desert; when I had tied the water-skins to
+my camel’s saddle, one of the largest of them sprung a leak, out of
+which the water issued as from a fountain. In such cases the Arabs
+generally stop the hole with a peg made of the green twig of a
+tree, wrapped with a bit of linen; but the best substance for the
+purpose is the pith of the Dhourra cane, which swells in the water,
+and thus fits very tight. We crossed a flat district, intersected
+by many low grounds and Wadys, in which were shrubs and wild grass
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قش</span>) Gish. We passed a large
+encampment of Djaalein, distant four hours from the river, from
+which, nevertheless, they bring their daily supply of water; we
+encamped late at night, after a march of seven or eight hours from
+Kaboushye.</p>
+
+<p><em>May 20th.</em>—We set out before sunrise, in a N.E. b. E.
+direction. The caravan consisted of at least two hundred loaded
+camels, twenty or thirty dromedaries, carrying the richest traders,
+without any other loads; about one hundred and fifty traders, three
+hundred slaves, and about thirty horses, destined for the Yemen
+market; they were led the whole way by the slaves. The greater part
+of the loads consisted of tobacco, which the Souakin people had
+themselves brought from Sennaar, and of Dammour, from the same
+place. The caravan was under good care. Its chief was one of the
+principal men among the Arabs of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_364">[364]</span> Souakin, connected by marriage with the
+first tribes of the Bisharye and Hadendoa Bedouins, through whose
+territory our road lay; but notwithstanding this, I clearly
+perceived that there was a constant dread of the Bisharein. The
+people yielded without reluctance to the orders of the
+chief<a id="FNanchor_144"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_144">[54]</a> in every thing that
+related to the march of the caravan. The only strangers who had
+joined the Souakin merchants were a party of Tekaýrne (sing.
+Tekroury), or black traders, consisting of five masters, ten
+camels, and about thirty slaves. I joined this party, as we were
+all strangers, and glad of each other’s assistance; I encamped near
+them during the whole of the journey to the coast, separating
+myself from the Souakin traders, who were also divided into many
+different parties. I soon became tolerably familiar with my
+companions; they rendered me many little services, of which no one
+stands more in need than a caravan traveller, and I was never
+backward in returning them; so that we continued to be upon good
+terms: I cannot say a friendly footing, for nobody, even in the
+Negroe countries, is inclined to form an intimacy with a poor
+man.</p>
+
+<p>Of these Tekaýrne one was from Darfour, another from Kordofan,
+and three had come originally from Bornou, from whence, many years
+ago, they had travelled with the caravan to Fezzan, and from thence
+to Cairo. The principal among them, and who became the head of our
+mess, Hadji Aly el Bornaway (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حاج علي
+البرناوي</span>), had travelled as a slave-trader in many parts of
+Turkey, had been<span class="pagenum" id="Page_365">[365]</span> at
+Constantinople, had lived a long time at Damascus, (where many
+Tekaýrne serve as labourers in the gardens of the great), and had
+three times performed the Hadj: he was now established at Kordofan,
+and spent his time in trading between that place and Djidda. His
+travels, and the apparent sanctity of his conduct, had procured him
+great reputation, and he was well received by the Meks and other
+chiefs, to whom he never failed to bring some small presents from
+Djidda. Although almost constantly occupied, (whether sitting under
+a temporary shed of mats, or riding upon his camel on the march,)
+in reading the Koran, yet this man was a complete bon vivant, whose
+sole object was sensual enjoyment. The profits on his small
+capital, which were continually renewed by his travelling, were
+spent entirely in the gratification of his desires. He carried with
+him a favourite Borgho slave, as his concubine; she had lived with
+him three years, and had her own camel, while his other slaves
+performed the whole journey on foot.<a id="FNanchor_145"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_145">[55]</a> His leathern sacks were filled with all
+the choice provisions which the Shendy market could afford,
+particularly with sugar and dates, and his dinners were the best in
+the caravan. To hear him talk of morals and religion, one might
+have supposed that he knew vice only by name; yet Hadji Aly, who
+had spent half his life in devotion, sold last year, in the slave
+market of Medinah, his own cousin, whom he had recently married at
+Mekka. She had gone thither on a pilgrimage from Bornou by the way
+of Cairo, when Aly unexpectedly meeting with her, claimed her as
+his cousin, and married her:<a id="FNanchor_146"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_146">[56]</a> at Medinah being in want of money, he sold her
+to some Egyptian<span class="pagenum" id="Page_366">[366]</span>
+merchants; and as the poor woman was unable to prove her free
+origin, she was obliged to submit to her fate. The circumstance was
+well known in the caravan, but the Hadji nevertheless still
+continued to enjoy all his wonted reputation.</p>
+
+<p>The Tekaýrne treated me in the same manner as they would have
+treated any other traveller; and as travellers are always treated
+in these countries, where, except assisting their neighbour
+occasionally in lifting a camel’s load, no one thinks of any thing
+but his own comforts; but this was all I wished for; I was in no
+real need of any one’s help; and I never experienced any thing like
+ill treatment from the Souakin merchants that was not equally
+shared by the Tekaýrne themselves. I was much upon my guard,
+behaved civilly to every body, shunned all intimacy with the
+slaves, with whom I was considered nearly upon a level; and shewed
+a proper spirit of resistance against any attempt to cheat or
+wheedle me out of a part of my baggage or provisions. By this
+conduct I have reason to believe, that I acquired the character of
+a hardy, active man, very selfish, stingy, and attentive to his own
+interests.</p>
+
+<p>We travelled the whole morning across a plain composed chiefly
+of petrosilex. To the right we had a number of Wadys, or low
+grounds.</p>
+
+<p>After a march of ten or eleven hours we rested; it is the custom
+to set out about sun-rise, to halt during the mid-day hours, or
+from ten o’clock A. M. till three or four P. M., and then to
+continue the march till late at night, and often till after
+midnight.</p>
+
+<p><em>May 21st.</em> Our road continued to traverse the plain. We
+this day experienced a violent Semoum. The camels of the Souakin
+merchants being heavily loaded with goods, had taken but a small
+supply of water, in proportion to the number of the slaves and
+horses. Towards noon, most of their skins were empty, and the chief
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_367">[367]</span> the caravan
+coming to our mess, almost forcibly took from every one of us a
+fourth part of the water which was left. We passed the mid-day
+hours upon a black gravelly plain, near some acacia trees; and
+after a long day’s march of ten or eleven hours, in a N. E. b. E.
+direction, we slept in a Wady full of shrubs and deep sands. The
+whole caravan went thirsty to rest. We found, almost the whole way
+across the desert, a well trodden path, much frequented by the
+people of Atbara, who carry their cattle to the Shendy market: we
+met several of them on the road, on their way to Shendy with mats
+made at Atbara of the leaves of the Doum tree.</p>
+
+<p><em>May 22nd.</em>—After a march of three hours among sandy
+plains, we came in sight of the river Atbara, and entered the
+groves of trees which line its banks. The luxuriant vegetation
+which now surrounded us filled with pleasure even the stony hearts
+of the slave-traders; one of whom, alluding to the dreary tract we
+had passed, exclaimed: (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بعد الموت
+الجنّه</span> Baad el mout el djenna), “After death comes
+paradise.” We marched for about a quarter of an hour among high
+trees, from the boughs of which we had much difficulty in
+disentangling the camels’ loads. There was a greater variety of
+natural vegetation here than I had seen any where on the banks of
+the Nile in Egypt. I observed different species of the mimosa, Doum
+trees of the largest size, whose luxuriant clusters of fruit
+excited the wishes of the slaves; the Nebek tree, with its fruit
+ripe; the Allobé, of the size of the Nebek, besides a great number
+of others, unknown to me; to these must be added an abundance of
+wild herbage, growing on a rich fat soil, similar to that of Egypt.
+The trees were inhabited by great numbers of the feathered tribe,
+whose song travellers in Egypt very rarely hear. I saw no birds
+with rich plumage, but observed small ones of several different
+kinds. Some sweet notes struck my ears, which I had never before
+heard, and the amorous cooings of the turtle doves were
+unceasing.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_368">[368]</span> We
+hastened to the river, and eagerly descended its low banks to allay
+our thirst. Several camels, at the sight of the water, broke the
+halters by which they were led, and in rushing or stumbling down
+the banks, threw off their loads, and occasioned great clamour and
+disorder.</p>
+
+<p>We remained but a short time at this place, and then continued
+our route along the banks of the river for about an hour, for the
+most part among the date trees, which line the borders of the
+desert. These trees were larger than any I had seen in Egypt. At
+the end of one hour we forded the river, without any difficulty, as
+the water hardly reached above the knees of the camels. In less
+than half an hour from the opposite bank, we came to the village of
+Atbara, so named from its vicinity to the river. As the caravan was
+to remain here some days, the first care of every one was to choose
+a proper halting-place. The Souakin merchants alighted on an open
+ground in front of the village, where they formed several parties
+among themselves. The Tekaýrne and myself took possession of some
+thick thorny bushes on one side of the village, within which, after
+a few hours labour with the axe, each cut a small birth, just large
+enough to contain himself and his baggage, while the slaves were
+ordered to sleep before the entrance. We thus secured our goods
+from pilferers, and by spreading a few mats over the bushes,
+procured a comfortable shade.</p>
+
+<p>The village, or more properly encampment, of Atbara, consisted
+of several long irregular rows of tents, formed of mats made of the
+leaves of the Doum tree, and containing about two hundred families
+of Bisharein. This is the general mode of dwelling throughout the
+tract of desert country lying between Egypt and Abyssinia. The bare
+skins of the Nubian sheep and goats not furnishing the inhabitants
+with the necessary materials for making tent-coverings of wool or
+goats’ hair, like the eastern Bedouins,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_369">[369]</span> their place is supplied with mats. They fix
+a row of poles, about twelve or fifteen feet high, into the ground,
+opposite to each other, and converging at the top; over these they
+fasten others horizontally; upon which mats are thrown in such a
+way as to present every where an inclined plane for the rain to run
+off. Every tent is furnished with two or three Angareygs, which
+take up nearly the whole of the interior, so that a very small part
+remains for any one to stand in; nor is this very necessary, as the
+Bisharein pass the greater part of their time reclined upon the
+Angareyg.<a id="FNanchor_147"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_147">[57]</a> In the smaller tents both sexes live together;
+but in the larger there is a partition across the tent, behind the
+Angareygs, which divides it into a front and back apartment; the
+latter is occupied by the women, and serves also as the kitchen;
+though the women never think of concealing themselves from
+strangers. All persons of quality have separate tents for their
+women, to which they sometimes add an open shed, for the reception
+of strangers. Whenever the Bedouins remove, the tents are struck,
+and the poles, mats, &amp;c. are loaded upon camels.</p>
+
+<p>Atbara is the residence of the chief of the tribe
+Hammadab<span class="pagenum" id="Page_370">[370]</span>
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">هامّداب</span>); which must not be
+confounded with the Hameydab (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حميداب</span>,) a tribe of Ababde. The Hammadab are one of the
+strongest tribes of the Bisharye nation:<a id="FNanchor_148"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_148">[58]</a> the chief had travelled with us from
+Shendy, where he had purchased some slaves and horses. There are
+always a few inhabitants in this place who trade with Shendy, and
+wait here for the arrival of the Souakin caravans. As soon as it
+was known in the neighbourhood that a caravan had arrived, and
+intended to stop a few days, a great number of Bisharein came with
+Dhourra, sheep, butter, and milk, in order to barter these articles
+for Dammour and drugs, especially Mehleb, cloves, and incense, or
+Libban, from the west. Scarcely any of these people understand the
+Arabic language, except those who trade to Berber and Shendy; but
+it is understood by almost all their slaves, the greater part of
+whom are educated among the inhabitants on the Nile. Their dress,
+or rather undress, was every where the same, consisting only of a
+Dammour shirt, worn by both men and women; I thought the latter
+remarkably handsome; they were of a dark brown complexion, with
+beautiful eyes, and fine teeth; their persons were slender and
+elegant. They seemed to be under no fear of jealousy in their
+husbands or fathers, as they came laughing and joking quite close
+to our tents, and those who could not speak Arabic endeavoured to
+make themselves understood by signs. The beauties seemed to be
+fully conscious of their charms; but it was easy to perceive that
+they flirted with us for no other purpose than to make a better
+bargain for their Dhourra and milk,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_371">[371]</span> than the less handsome ones could obtain;
+and they all betrayed bad faith in their dealings with us. I had
+already heard in Egypt, that the Bisharein are not jealous of their
+women; it is with them a law of honour never to suspect their wives
+till they have the most unequivocal proofs of their incontinency. A
+Bisharye seeing a stranger kiss his wife, would laugh it off, but
+death would inevitably ensue if he caught her in adultery.</p>
+
+<p>The Bisharein of Atbara, like all their brethren, are a handsome
+and bold race of people; they go constantly armed, and are seldom
+free from quarrels. Drunkenness is as common among them as it is
+among the Arabs of Shendy, and we heard every night some loud
+dispute in the Bouza huts. They are much addicted to pilfering, and
+notwithstanding all our precautions, every person in the caravan
+lost some small articles of baggage; several camels were also
+stolen, but they were afterwards returned through the interference
+of the chief, who exacted a handsome present for his trouble. Their
+propensity to theft is not the worst part of their character; they
+appear to be treacherous, cruel, avaricious, and revengeful, and
+are restrained in the indulgence of these passions by no laws
+either divine or human. One of the people of this village, who had
+come with us from Shendy, found on his arrival, that two of his
+best camels had been stolen. Suspecting one of his neighbours to be
+the thief, he came to the Tekaýrne, to know whether they would, by
+charms, inform him if his suspicions were well founded; but they
+refused to give him any distinct answer, or to meddle in the
+business. The man then swore that if he ever ascertained who the
+thief was, he would cut the throats of all his children, maim his
+camels, and reduce him to such poverty, as would oblige him to feed
+with the cattle in the woods. The Bisharein are all Mussulmans, but
+they observe none of the rites prescribed by that religion, thus
+forming a remarkable contrast to the Negroe<span class="pagenum" id="Page_372">[372]</span> Hadjis who pass this way, and who never
+omit any of the exterior duties of the Musselman faith. The
+inhospitable character of the Bisharein would alone prove them to
+be a true African race, were it not put beyond all doubt by their
+language. Not a drop of milk could be had without purchasing it,
+and the women obliged us to pay for the use of some old earthen
+pots which we were in need of during our stay; no one would even
+interpret between us and such of the people as were ignorant of
+Arabic, without exacting at least a handful of Dhourra for his
+trouble; this avaricious spirit is conspicuous in all their
+actions, and it is not merely caravan passengers, from whom it is
+natural for them to extort some profit, that are thus treated; the
+poor Negroe pilgrims who pass this place in their way to Taka
+complain bitterly of the pitiless inhabitants of the banks of the
+Atbara.</p>
+
+<p>Dhourra, and a small quantity of Loubye, or kidney-beans, are
+sown in the woods close to the river, without any previous
+preparation of the ground. Water-wheels are unknown. The extent of
+fertile soil is equal on both sides of the river; but nothing is
+cultivated on the left bank, on account of the depredations of the
+Djaalein on that side. In years when the river does not overflow
+the banks, they draw all their supplies from Taka. The same trees
+grow near the village which I saw on the west bank; the Nebek was
+the most common; its fruit is so abundant that the camels are
+sometimes fed upon it. The Oshour occupies the intervals between
+the larger trees, and leaves but little space for the growth of the
+Dhourra. A great number of turtle-doves and pigeons flew about;
+they have numerous enemies in a species of eagle, which is very
+little larger than the eagle Rakham of Egypt; the body is quite
+black, the head bald, and of a deep purple red, like that of the
+turkey. The Bisharein say that tigers abound in the woods, and that
+very large serpents are sometimes seen; but though I
+crossed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_373">[373]</span> the woods
+every day to bring water from the river, I never saw any
+quadrupeds, except innumerable hosts of rats, of the largest size,
+running among the Dhourra stubble, great numbers of which the
+slaves killed, and were delighted to eat. The large ants, which are
+said to be extremely obnoxious in Kordofan and Darfour, are never
+seen any where to the east of the Nile. During high water
+crocodiles are found in the river, but no hippopotami. The
+rhinoceros is unknown here.</p>
+
+<p>The cattle of the Bisharein are very fine, and in great
+abundance. Their camels had just been sent to the nearest
+mountains, where some rains had fallen, to feed upon the fresh
+herbage, while those in our caravan were driven every morning into
+the woods to feed upon the twigs of the acacias. The flocks of
+sheep and goats were following the camels to the mountains; we
+bought two large sheep for one dollar’s worth of Dammour. The chief
+and some of his relatives keep horses, and wear coats of mail;
+there are a couple of asses belonging to every tent.</p>
+
+<p>The river Atbara joins the Mogren at about two days from this
+village, beyond which the united stream bears the latter name. The
+Mogren is said to rise in the Bisharye mountains, but it is almost
+dry in summer; and even in the rainy season, appears to be nothing
+but a collection of torrents. The direct road from hence to Souakin
+does not cross it, whence it is evident that its course must be
+much more from the northward than is generally laid down in the
+maps. I have already stated that we found very little water in the
+Atbara; a few weeks before, it must have been almost dried up; for
+in the bed of the united stream, where we crossed it near Damer, we
+found nothing but some stagnant pools. During our stay at Atbara we
+had several light showers at night, and the days were cloudy, often
+with foggy mornings. On the 3d and 4th of June the river fell
+suddenly, leaving the greater part of the bed quite dry. I
+afterwards observed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_374">[374]</span>
+in our way to Taka, that the fall must have been at least one foot.
+The banks are not more than twenty-five feet high; I did not
+measure the river’s breadth, but from a clear impression left on my
+mind, I conjecture the banks to be distant from each other at most
+from four to five hundred paces. The current of the stream was so
+slow as hardly to be perceptible.</p>
+
+<p>The women of Atbara shave their heads on the death of their
+nearest relatives; a custom prevalent also among several of the
+peasant tribes of Arabs in Upper Egypt. The law of retaliation is
+said to exist among the Bisharein in all its force; their tribes
+are in continual war with each other; their national enemies are
+the Shukorye on one side, and the Hadendoa on the other. The
+Hammadab who live at Atbara have for neighbours, up the river,
+towards Goz Radjeb, the Beni Kurb, and in the desert the Baterab,
+both of the Bisharye race. The Hammadab cultivate the banks of the
+Atbara as low as its junction with the Mogren, below which commence
+the territories of the Djaalein. From thence to Berber is four long
+journeys, but the road is very little frequented, and the only
+places these people communicate with are Shendy, Goz Radjeb, and
+Taka, and with the Bisharein of the mountains to the northward.</p>
+
+<p>After remaining three or four days at Atbara the chief of the
+village collected passage duty from every individual, according to
+the number of his slaves. Each slave pays one Tob Dammour, and the
+same is levied upon every camel’s load, whatever it may consist of.
+Those merchants who are supposed, or known to carry gold, are taxed
+arbitrarily, which, as may readily be conceived, gives rise to many
+disputes. I paid on the whole one Tob and a half; but the Souakin
+merchants were extremely dissatisfied with the chief on account of
+his extortions, and told him that they would never again return by
+this route. It is, however, the safest road to<span class="pagenum" id="Page_375">[375]</span> Souakin, the desert on this side being
+inhabited by tribes friendly to the Hadherebe, and to Souakin; and
+I was informed that the chief of Atbara is obliged to divide with
+several of those tribes the sums which he derives from the caravan.
+The road, on the contrary, from Souakin to Damer, lies through the
+pasturing-places of some potent Bisharye tribes inimical to
+Souakin, and cannot be passed but by caravans sufficiently strong
+to repel any attack. The day after we had paid the duties, the
+chief sent to every party of traders a large dish of Dhourra made
+into a liquid paste, and some Bouza for the use of the caravan.</p>
+
+<p>The caravan, on quitting Atbara, was to divide into two parties,
+the one taking the direct road through the desert to Souakin, the
+other proceeding by Taka. The former route, for the three first
+days, takes a direction more easterly than Souakin, to the well of
+Gengerab, when it passes in a direct line to Souakin, by three
+watering-places, situated two days from each other. The entire
+journey is of ten or twelve days; the road abounds with pasturage
+and many encampments of Bedouins are met with in the fertile
+valleys, which are watered by winter torrents, giving birth to
+luxuriant crops of wild herbage. The part of the caravan proceeding
+to Taka, intended to sell there the Dammour and tobacco which they
+had brought from Sennaar; some of them purposed returning
+immediately afterwards to Shendy, while others intended to go on to
+Souakin. I determined to take the Taka road, and had the pleasure
+of seeing the Negroe merchants in whose company I travelled, follow
+my example. They had many slaves; their camels were weak, and on
+the Taka road they knew that water was to be met with daily.</p>
+
+<p><em>May 31st.</em>—The merchants destined for Souakin had left
+us on the preceding night. We departed ourselves in the morning,
+following the banks of the Atbara, and passing over a plain
+about<span class="pagenum" id="Page_376">[376]</span> two miles in
+breadth, overgrown with Doum trees and Oshour, among which the
+Dhourra stubble was still standing. I observed several hamlets in
+the thick groves of acacia trees near the river. At the end of
+three hours we halted upon a sandy beach near the river, where I
+saw several skeletons of crocodiles of moderate length lying on the
+ground. There appeared not the smallest elevation of ground; as far
+as the eye could reach, the horizon was unbroken in every
+direction, and the country on both sides of the river was an
+uninterrupted flat. A great number of rats ran, at every step,
+among the legs of the camels, and the slaves amused themselves the
+whole day with hunting them. From this place we took a short cut,
+leaving the river at some distance to the right, and proceeded over
+a gravelly and sandy plain, in a direction south. After a day’s
+march of about ten hours we again reached the river, and encamped
+for the night.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 1st.</em>—We continued to follow the bed of the river;
+the banks on both sides are overgrown with trees. This district
+belongs to the Beni Kurb. The soil is fertile, but bears no traces
+whatever of cultivation; the inhabitants of several hamlets or
+encampments appear to be exclusively shepherds. At a spot, where we
+came close to the bed of the river, I calculated its breadth at
+about ten minutes walk. At the end of four hours we passed Om
+Daoud, a large encampment of the tribe of Nefidjab of the
+Bisharein; this is the most southern boundary of the Bisharye
+dominions, and the beginning of the territory of the Hadendoa, a
+very powerful tribe, of which I shall again have occasion to speak;
+the son of their Shikh had come with us from Shendy, and we had
+therefore little to fear, except from their pilfering habits. The
+caravan halted near the village, and I walked up to the huts to
+look about me. My appearance on this occasion, as on many others,
+excited an universal shriek of surprise and horror, especially
+among the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_377">[377]</span> women,
+who were not a little terrified at seeing such an outcast of nature
+as they consider a white man to be, peeping into their huts, and
+asking for a little water or milk. The chief feeling which my
+appearance inspired I could easily perceive to be disgust, for the
+Negroes are all firmly persuaded that the whiteness of the skin is
+the effect of disease, and a sign of weakness; and there is not the
+least doubt, that a white man is looked upon by them as a being
+greatly inferior to themselves. At Shendy the inhabitants were more
+accustomed to the sight if not of white men, at least of the
+light-brown natives of Arabia; and as my skin was much sun-burnt, I
+there excited little surprise. On the market days, however, I often
+terrified people, by turning short upon them, when their
+exclamation generally was: Owez billahi min es-sheyttan erradjim
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اعوز باللّه من الشيطان
+الرّجيم</span>), “God preserve us from the devil!” One day, after
+bargaining for some onions with a country girl in the market at
+Shendy, she told me, that if I would take off my turban and shew
+her my head, she would give me five more onions; I insisted upon
+having eight, which she gave me; when I removed my turban she
+started back at the sight of my white closely shaven crown, and
+when I jocularly asked her whether she should like to have a
+husband with such a head, she expressed the greatest surprise and
+disgust, and swore that she would rather live with the ugliest
+Darfour slave.</p>
+
+<p>On the side of the desert near the village of Om Daoud, were a
+number of tombstones; the small-pox made great ravages here last
+year. According to the Nubian custom, the graves were covered with
+pebbles of white quartz, and a pole was stuck down at each end. We
+here fell in with a large caravan of Bisharein, who were travelling
+the same road with us as far as Goz Radjeb, where they intended to
+purchase Dhourra. The Souakin traders entertained great suspicions
+of them, as they belonged to a tribe which was not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_378">[378]</span> altogether friendly, and we
+therefore kept carefully separated from them, and upon the
+watch.</p>
+
+<p>From Om Daoud we continued along the Atbara, making occasionally
+short cuts across the desert. Our general direction was S. E. b. S.
+After a march of nine hours and a half, having seen that the
+Bisharein caravan had alighted at some distance from us, we halted;
+our chief was afraid to continue our route and halt farther on,
+lest we should be surprised; he thought it more prudent to have the
+enemy in view, than behind us, and we kept under arms the whole of
+the night. We lighted a fire, and placed our baggage in such a
+manner as to serve as a protection to us, in case of an attack. The
+Bisharein, however, were probably in as much fear of us as we were
+of them; for they remained the next morning on their halting place,
+while we continued our journey.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 2d.</em>—We travelled this morning about four hours, in
+a south-east direction, over a plain of cultivable soil, though
+distant several miles from the river. No mountains were any where
+visible. We rested during the mid-day hours in a grove of Nebek,
+Syale, and Allobe trees. I here observed several unknown birds; one
+was of the size and shape of a black-bird, with a long tail striped
+with white. I saw some large crows with a white neck. The Bisharein
+seemed to have no names in their language for these different
+birds; amongst them it is a great scandal to eat the flesh of
+birds, and I several times heard them sneeringly call the Egyptians
+“bird-eaters.” On resuming our journey we entered the sandy desert
+in the direction of S. E. b. E. In the afternoon the Souakin
+traders chased with their swiftest dromedaries a wild beast which
+they descried at a distance; they called it in Arabic Homar el
+Wahsh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حمار الوحش</span>), which
+means the wild ass. It did not come near enough to be distinctly
+seen; but they say it is of the size of a hyæna, with a head and
+tail much resembling those of an ass: it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_379">[379]</span> has no horns. In the Arabian deserts they
+speak of an animal to which they give the same name; whether it is
+really the same animal I am not certain. The ground was covered in
+every direction with innumerable footsteps of the Gazelle species,
+some of which appeared to belong to animals of a much larger size
+than any I had yet seen. At the end of four hours, we halted in a
+Wady with trees. The heat during the day was very oppressive; at
+night we had a shower of rain. Along the whole route I observed in
+the form of the sand-hills, and in the shape of the trees, evident
+proofs of the prevalence of strong easterly winds. A high insulated
+mountain in the plain bore east, four hours distant.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 3d.</em>—We saw this morning, while travelling in the
+plain, a mirage of the brightest azure, as pure and clear as those
+I had witnessed in the desert between Egypt and Berber. After a
+march of four hours (direction south), we again reached the river,
+nearly opposite the large village of Goz Radjeb (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قوز رجب</span>), an Arabic name. The banks on
+both sides were quite barren. We encamped under some Oshour trees,
+large enough to afford shade to the whole party. It was our
+intention to remain here a few days, as the Hadherebe thought the
+market of Goz Radjeb a fit place for disposing of a part of their
+merchandize. In approaching the river I saw at a distance two
+insulated hills close to each other in the plain, and at a short
+distance from the river; and when we drew nearer to them, I was
+extremely surprised to see upon the summit of the largest a huge
+fabric of ancient times. Being naturally short-sighted, and my
+vision having been further impaired by two attacks of ophthalmia
+while I was in Upper Egypt, I could not trust my eyes, and
+therefore asked my companions what it was that appeared like a
+building upon the hill. “Don’t you see,” they replied, “that it is
+a church?” (Kenise, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">كنيسه</span>, a
+name often applied by the Egyptians to their ancient
+temples,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_380">[380]</span> which they
+ascribe to the Christians) “and no doubt the work of infidels.” We
+continued to approach the hill, and encamped at about half an
+hour’s distance from it. As soon as we had alighted, and placed our
+baggage in order, I started for the hills, in great eagerness to
+examine these Ethiopian remains; but a loud cry from the Souakin
+people brought me back. “The whole country,” they said, “is
+infested by the peasants of Goz Radjeb; you will not be able to
+move a hundred paces alone, without being attacked.” Indeed several
+suspicious looking persons were seen lurking among the trees that
+lined the banks of the river farther on. My companions added, that
+the hill was inhabited by Hadendoa robbers, who lived in caverns in
+it, and were at war with all their neighbours. As they could have
+no interest in deceiving me, I readily believed them, and returned,
+not with the intention of abandoning my design, but in the hope of
+being able the next day to concert measures with some of the
+country people who might come to barter with us, for their
+accompanying me to the ruins, which I was then fully determined to
+visit, whatever might be the consequences. Unfortunately I was
+deceived in my expectations; and I shall never forgive myself for
+the momentary irresolution which prevented me from examining the
+most interesting object which occurred during my journey.</p>
+
+<p>A party of our people had crossed the river to Goz Radjeb to
+inquire after the state of the market. About two hours after
+sunset, when we were retiring to sleep,<a id="FNanchor_149"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_149">[59]</a> they returned, and soon after the chief
+of the caravan came to us, crying: “Make haste, the caravan is in
+fear; if we remain here we shall be attacked. Fill your
+water-skins, and load your camels, for we shall depart
+immediately.”<a id="FNanchor_150"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_150">[60]</a> In such cases, every feeling gives<span class="pagenum" id="Page_381">[381]</span> way to that of
+self-preservation. Forgetting for a moment the temple, I ran with
+two skins to the river, while my slave got the camel ready, and by
+the time I returned with my filled skins, the chief had set off.
+The people who went to Goz Radjeb had been there secretly informed
+that a large party of Bisharein intended to surprise us, and the
+immediate departure of the caravan became in consequence advisable,
+as it would have been very difficult to pass the river during the
+night, in order to take refuge at Goz, where we might have been
+moreover besieged for a long while. We proceeded in silence along
+the bank of the river; I passed the foot of the hill, but the night
+was cloudy, and its darkness prevented me from catching the
+smallest glimpse of the ruins. The barking of dogs proved to me
+that our people had told me the truth in saying that the rocks were
+inhabited. Our merchants seemed much frightened, the greatest
+silence was observed, no pipes were permitted to be lighted, lest
+the burning ashes might indicate the direction of our march, and
+nothing was heard but the groans of a few infirm female slaves, and
+the whips of their cruel masters, who obliged them to follow the
+caravan on foot, having lent the camels upon which they rode to
+some people of Goz, for the transport of goods to Taka. I cast a
+last look towards the object of my curiosity, and lamented the ill
+fortune, which last year, when at the most southern point which I
+reached on the Nile, had prevented me from seeing the temple of
+Soleb in Mahass, and now again, when I had gained the farthest term
+of my journey southwards, had equally thwarted my desires, and had
+deprived the public of what many persons might perhaps have thought
+the most valuable fruit of this difficult journey. May a more
+fortunate or a more courageous traveller be hereafter able to
+examine what I have thus merely pointed out.</p>
+
+<p>The rock of these hills is granite; while passing them in
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_382">[382]</span> night, I picked
+up several stones, which I found the next morning to be red
+coarse-grained granite. The hill upon which the ruin stands appears
+to be the highest, being about three or four hundred feet above the
+river, with sloping sides covered with large irregular blocks, and
+masses of rock. It is perpendicular on the side towards the river,
+between which and the hill is a space of about thirty yards, where
+the road passes. The building appears to be just over the
+precipice, and to face the river. What I could distinguish
+of<img alt="" class="float-right iw5" src="images/i35.jpg" id="i35"> it were two high and extremely massive walls, with an
+equally massive flat roof; on the roof was a sort of cupola, the
+sides of which appeared to be perpendicular. I could perceive no
+columns, or any other building. The ruin itself is enclosed on all
+sides by high rocks, which hide the greater part of it from view;
+and in the day time I was unable to get a sight of it in front. As
+far as I could judge its walls must be between thirty and forty
+feet in height, and I suppose them to be built of granite, as they
+were of the same hue as the surrounding rocks. I had no telescope
+with me, and can therefore give no accurate details respecting
+these remains; but the whole building, with the exception of the
+pointed roof, appeared to me to be of the rudest construction, and
+of the remotest antiquity. I asked the Souakin merchants if they
+had ever seen any similar ruins in this neighbourhood, but they had
+never gone higher up the river, and could therefore give me no
+positive information, and no natives appeared whom I could question
+on the subject.</p>
+
+<p>The village of Goz Radjeb stands in the sandy plain, at a
+distance of about a quarter of a mile from the left bank of the
+river. It is named Goz from its situation among sands. Its
+inhabitants are said to be a mixture of all sorts of Arabs,
+Bisharein, Hadendoa,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_383">[383]</span> Djaalein, and Shukorye, who have settled
+here principally for the purposes of trade. As far as I could
+judge, agriculture forms no part of their occupation, and I
+understood that they draw all their Dhourra from the neighbouring
+district of Taka. They possess cattle, which feed in the summer on
+the bank of the river, and in winter in the interior of the desert.
+Goz is under the dominion of Sennaar, and its chief, like that of
+Shendy, is of the reigning family of Wold Adjib (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ولد عجيب</span>). The inhabitants carry on a
+brisk trade with Sennaar and Shendy, and sometimes visit the market
+of Damer, where, as at Shendy, they sell their cattle. Slaves are
+always to be found in the market of Goz, which is frequented
+sometimes by Souakin traders, but more usually by the Bisharye and
+Hadendoa Bedouins, for, although they are enemies, yet, in these
+countries, as among the Arabian Bedouins, a free passage is allowed
+through a hostile territory, under certain restrictions. The
+caravans from Souakin to Sennaar, which do not wish to pass by
+Atbara or Shendy, take the route by Goz, from whence they proceed
+straight across the desert to Sennaar. In the winter pools of water
+abound in the sands; but in summer the caravans are obliged to
+carry water with them for the whole journey of six days; this
+desert is said also to be destitute of trees. The route is only
+attempted during the hot season, because the Bedouins Shukorye
+encamp there during the winter, and render the road dangerous.
+Although the barrenness which prevails in this route in the summer
+often proves fatal to the slaves, the traders nevertheless prefer
+it to incurring the expenses which attend a stay at Shendy, and the
+payment of passage duties at Atbara. We marched about four hours
+during the night, and then rested upon deep sandy ground near some
+thorny trees and tamarisks.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 4th.</em>—We set out before sun-rise. Our road lay over
+an immense plain, without the smallest elevation, except the
+abovementioned<span class="pagenum" id="Page_384">[384]</span>
+hills to our left, which, in the morning, bore N. N. E. and at
+mid-day, when we halted, N. W. The soil of the plain consists of
+clay, with very few stones, and is almost as fertile as that on the
+banks of the Nile; it is over-grown with many different species of
+wild herbs, and what appeared to me remarkable, each species
+occupied a separate spot, seldom mixing with those adjoining it, so
+that the whole plain had the appearance of an immense sheet of
+patterns. Many of the herbs were now withered.</p>
+
+<p>Our direction was E. N. E.; during the morning a part of our
+companions quitted the caravan, and took a more southerly route
+towards the southern parts of the country of Taka. About noon we
+descried some trees at a distance, and as the heat of the sun was
+extremely great, every one hastened in search of a shady place. The
+surface of the ground, as well as the trees, afforded proofs of the
+prevalence of strong easterly winds. In the afternoon we entered
+upon a completely barren, gravelly plain, without trees or the
+slightest vegetation of any kind, and without any elevation, or
+other land marks to guide the traveller. In the evening there were
+some vivid flashes of lightning, which served as a direction for
+the march, as the people of the caravan knew the quarter from
+whence they came; the horizon was cloudy, and threatened rain.
+After a march of about eleven hours we encamped, much tired, in a
+Wady of trees, a part of the caravan having gone astray during the
+night.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 5th.</em>—It appeared that we had all missed our road
+yesterday, owing to the extreme flatness and barrenness of the
+plain; for we started to-day in the direction of E. S. E. After
+about an hour’s march we reached the boundaries of the province of
+Taka; where we found a rich soil as fine as that near the Nile, and
+much like it in colour; the march of the camels was obstructed by
+thick groves of Oshour and acacias. A most violent gust of
+wind<span class="pagenum" id="Page_385">[385]</span> arose, and
+blew about the dust and sand in such a manner, that we were unable
+to see ten yards before us; we in consequence lost our way among
+the trees, and after wandering about for some time, during which we
+frightened several shepherds, who mistook us for Bisharye enemies,
+and hastily drove away their flocks, we reached, after a three
+hours march, an encampment of Hadendoa Bedouins, where we rested.
+One of our chief guides or Khobara (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خبرا</span>) was married to a relative of the chief of this
+encampment. We alighted in the open area surrounded by the tents,
+which, as in Arabia, were pitched in a Douar or circle
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دوار</span>). Towards evening we
+were visited by another hurricane, the most tremendous I ever
+remember to have witnessed. A dark blue cloud first appeared,
+extending to about 25° above the horizon; as it approached nearer,
+and increased in height, it assumed an ash gray colour with a tinge
+of yellow, striking every person in the caravan, who had not been
+accustomed to such phænomena, with amazement at its magnificent and
+terrific appearance; as the cloud approached still nearer, the
+yellow tinge became more general, while the horizon presented the
+brightest azure. At last, it burst upon us in its rapid course, and
+involved us in darkness and confusion; nothing could be
+distinguished at the distance of five or six feet; our eyes were
+filled with dust; our temporary sheds were blown down at the first
+gust, and many of the more firmly fixed tents of the Hadendoa
+followed; the largest withstood for a time the force of the blast,
+but were at last obliged to yield, and the whole camp was levelled
+with the ground. In the mean time the terrified camels arose, broke
+the cords by which they were fastened, and endeavoured to escape
+from the destruction which appeared to threaten them, thus adding
+not a little to our own embarrassment. After blowing about half an
+hour with incessant violence, the wind suddenly abated, and when
+the atmosphere became clear,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_386">[386]</span> the tremendous cloud was seen continuing
+its havoc to the north-west. Similar hurricanes frequently happen
+at this time of the year, their consequences, however, are never
+more disastrous than what I have just detailed; in a few minutes
+the tents were raised, and every thing was again put in order.</p>
+
+<p>The Hadendoa showed us little hospitality; we encamped in the
+very midst of them, that we might not be exposed to any hostile
+attacks in the night, during the whole of which we kept watch to
+preserve our baggage from their pilfering propensities. The wells
+were at some distance from the encampment, and as the road to them,
+which lay through the wood, was unsafe for strangers, the Hadendoa
+made us pay for the water they supplied us with. The guide and his
+relations feasted upon a sheep that had been slaughtered in honour
+of him; a few pounds of the roasted meat were sent from their board
+to the party of black merchants to which I belonged, and presently
+afterwards the Shikh of the Douar sent a slave to beg some cloves,
+which could not be refused, as they were evidently considered as a
+return due for the meat. In the Arabian deserts, such meanness
+would disgrace a Bedouin and the whole tribe to which he
+belongs.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 6th.</em>—Our people did not like to remain longer with
+the Hadendoa, because the smallness of their encampment, and its
+distance from any market, left our people little hopes of disposing
+of their goods; we therefore, against the opinion of our chief,
+moved on this morning in a S. S. E. direction, over the fertile
+grounds of Taka, which consist every where of a rich soil, but
+uncultivated, with trees, and wild herbs in great abundance. After
+a winding march of three hours through the woods, we came to a
+large encampment called Filik, where we intended to stop. We
+entered through one of the openings made in the high thick
+enclosure formed of the thorny branches of trees, with which all
+these encampments are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_387">[387]</span> surrounded, and we pitched our huts in the
+square area within. Many of the merchants had friends here, in
+whose tents they took up their quarters. The black traders kept
+close together, and as I knew that we should, at all events, remain
+here for several days, I hired a Bedouin, for a handful of tobacco,
+to construct for me a small tent of mats, which might at least
+afford me shelter from the sun.</p>
+
+<p><em>Taka</em> (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بلاد التاكا</span>
+Bellad el Taka). The country of Taka, or as it is also called by
+its inhabitants, El Gash (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">القاش</span>), is famous all over these countries for its
+extreme fertility. It extends in a SE. direction for about three
+long days journeys in length, and one in breadth, and is peopled
+entirely by tribes who are part settlers and part Bedouins. One
+day’s journey, in a SE. direction from Filik, which is an
+encampment of Hadendoa, begin the encampments of the Bedouins
+called Melikinab; further on live the Bedouins Segollo; one day’s
+journey from the Melikinab, begin the tribe of Hallenga, which is
+divided into the Upper and Lower, the former dwelling about one
+day’s journey beyond the latter. Taka forms part of the country of
+Bedja,<a id="FNanchor_151"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_151">[61]</a> which includes the course
+of the river Atbara from Goz Radjeb, and continues, as I was
+informed, to the south, as far as the mountains (of Abyssinia, I
+suppose), while, to the north, the chain of mountains called Langay
+marks the boundary of Bedja, thus including many deserts, and
+several hilly districts. Taka itself, however, is an entirely flat
+country, or rather low ground, bounded on the N. and W. by deserts,
+and on the SE. by a chain of mountains called Negeyb, which, from
+what I learnt, runs parallel with the Red Sea. Of the nature of its
+frontiers to the south I cannot speak with certainty, but I believe
+it to be a country interspersed with mountains and fertile
+valleys.</p>
+
+<p>The reason why Taka is so fertile, and has become so
+populous,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_388">[388]</span> is its
+regular inundation, a fact of which not a doubt can be entertained,
+although I found it impossible to obtain exact information of the
+causes of this inundation, or of the circumstances attending it.
+About the latter end of June, or sometimes not till July, for the
+period does not seem to be so fixed as that of the rise of the
+Nile,<a id="FNanchor_152"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_152">[62]</a> large torrents coming
+from the S. and SE. pour over the country, and in the space of a
+few weeks (or according to some, in eight days), cover the whole
+surface with a sheet of water, varying in depth from two to three
+feet; these torrents are said to lose themselves in the eastern
+plain, after inundating the country, but the waters remain upwards
+of a month in Taka; and if I am to believe the reports of several
+persons who had seen the Nile, and could draw a comparison, the
+waters, on subsiding, leave a thick slime, or mud, upon the
+surface, similar to that left by the Nile. It is certain that
+immediately after the inundation is imbibed, the Bedouins sow the
+seed upon the alluvial mud, without any previous preparation
+whatever. The inundation is usually accompanied by heavy rains,
+which set in a short time before the inundation, and become most
+copious during its height. I was informed that the rains are
+ushered in by hurricanes of incredible violence, blowing from the
+south every evening after sun-set. The rains last several weeks
+longer than the inundation; but they are not incessant, falling in
+heavy showers at short intervals. In the winter and spring, the
+people of Taka obtain their water from deep wells, extremely
+copious, dispersed all over the country, but at a considerable
+distance from each other; they are in groups of half a dozen
+together, with large mud basins round them for the cattle to drink
+from, and as they supply the adjacent country to the distance of
+four or five miles, they are crowded the whole day with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_389">[389]</span> shepherds and their flocks.
+The water of most of these wells is brackish; but it is said that
+there is always found one in each group of which the contents are
+sweeter than the rest. They are dug to the depth of from
+twenty-five to forty feet, and are not lined on the sides with
+either brick or stones.</p>
+
+<p>The produce of Taka is very disproportioned to what it might be
+in such a fine soil, every part of which is inundated, and where
+the inundation rarely fails. The people appear to be ignorant of
+tillage. They have no regular fields; and the Dhourra, their only
+grain, is sown among the thorny trees, and Oshour, by dibbling
+large holes in the ground, into each of which a handful of the seed
+is thrown. After the harvest is gathered, the peasants return to
+their pastoral occupations; they seem never to have thought of
+irrigating the ground for a second crop with the water which might
+every where be found by digging wells. Not less than four-fifths of
+the ground remain unsown; but as the quantity of Dhourra produced
+is, generally, sufficient not only for their own consumption, but
+also for the supply of others, they never think of making any
+provisions for increasing it, notwithstanding that when the
+inundation is not copious, or only partial (no one remembers its
+ever failing entirely), they suffer all the miseries of want.
+Twenty-four Mouds of Dhourra were bought here with one piece of Tob
+Dammour; at Shendy the same price is given for seven Mouds.
+Calculating the price by dollars, nearly the same quantity of
+Dhourra is obtained here for one Spanish dollar, as in Upper Egypt,
+which is the cheapest corn-market in the East.<a id="FNanchor_153"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_153">[63]</a> The Dhourra is of the best quality, and
+of the same species as that of Upper Egypt, and the countries on
+the Nile, but it is much larger<span class="pagenum" id="Page_390">[390]</span> grained, whiter, and better flavoured; it
+is therefore in great request, and when I was at Souakin, in the
+house of the Turkish officer of the customs, I eat of loaves made
+of this Dhourra, which were little inferior to wheaten bread. In
+the Djidda market the Taka Dhourra is sold twenty per cent. dearer
+than that grown in Egypt. I believe nothing else is cultivated
+except a few Bamyes and Loubyes. The people are extremely fond of
+onions, which have become a kind of currency between them and the
+Souakin traders; but no one has ever tried to grow them in
+Taka.</p>
+
+<p>Taka is as celebrated for its herds of cattle as for its
+Dhourra; they are very numerous; the cows are particularly
+handsome, and have all humps on the back, like those on the Nile;
+they serve, as in Darfour and Kordofan, for a medium of exchange.
+The price of a large fat cow was four pieces of Dammour, or
+ninety-six Mouds of Dhourra, which is equivalent to about two
+Erdeybs, or thirty bushels. The price of a strong camel is
+one-fourth more. As it was now the hottest part of the year, just
+before the period of the rains, when the ground is quite parched
+up, I saw few cattle. According to the annual custom, the herds had
+been sent several months before to the Eastern desert, where they
+feed in the mountains and fertile valleys, and where springs of
+water are found. After the inundation, they are brought back to the
+plain. The camels of Taka are highly prized, from an idea that the
+young shoots of the acacia trees, on which they feed in the woods,
+render them stronger than camels fed with other food. The people
+use the skin of the long neck of the camel, sowed up on one side,
+and left open on the other, as sacks to transport their grain in,
+when travelling; their form is very convenient for loading. The
+quantity of cattle would be even greater than it is, were it not
+for the wild beasts which inhabit the forests, and destroy great
+numbers of them; the most common of these are lions,
+and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_391">[391]</span> what they call
+tigers, but which I suppose to be leopards or panthers. I never saw
+any of these animals, but I heard their howlings every night. The
+flocks of the encampment, near which a few sheep are always kept,
+are driven in the evening into the area within the circle of tents,
+and the openings in the thorny enclosure already described are
+filled up with a heap of thorns. No one dares stir out of this
+entrenchment during the night; it is sufficiently strong to be
+impenetrable to the wild beasts, which prowl about it the whole of
+the night, filling the air with their dismal howls, which are
+answered by the incessant barking of the dogs within. It rarely
+happens that either lions or tigers are killed in these countries;
+when such an occurrence happens, it is in self-defence; for the
+inhabitants having no other weapons than swords and
+lances,<a id="FNanchor_154"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_154">[64]</a> have little chance of
+conquering the king of the forest, of which this district appears
+to be a favourite haunt. Some of the Shikhs, but very few, have
+lion skins in their tents; they appeared to be of middling size;
+but if the testimony of the Hadendoa may be credited, a lion here
+sometimes reaches the size of a cow. Persons are frequently killed
+by them. In the woods wolves (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ذيب</span>), Gazelles, and hares abound; and the Bedouins
+relate stories of serpents of immense size, which often devour a
+sheep entire. The fiercest animals, however, that inhabit these
+woods are the Bedjawy, or inhabitants of Bedja, themselves. Great
+numbers of asses are kept by all these Bedouins. In the mountains
+of Negeyb, the Giraffa is said to be very numerous; I saw a piece
+of the skin of one in the tent of a Hadendoa. Locusts are always
+seen in Taka, which seems to be their breeding-place, from whence
+they spread over<span class="pagenum" id="Page_392">[392]</span>
+other parts of Nubia. However innumerable their hosts may be, they
+appear to be incapable of destroying the verdure of this country,
+as sometimes happens in Egypt and Syria. Those I saw were of the
+largest size, with the upper wings of a red, and the lower of a
+yellow colour. The trees are full of pigeons, and crows in large
+flocks. I do not remember having seen any birds remarkable for
+their plumage. From the acacia trees gum arabic is collected, which
+is sold at Souakin to the Djidda merchants; from Djidda it finds
+its way to Egypt; but it is of an indifferent quality, owing,
+probably, to the moisture of the soil; for the best gum is produced
+in the driest deserts.</p>
+
+<p>The Hadendoa Bedouins, the only inhabitants of Taka seen by me,
+evidently belong to the same nation as the Bisharein, and all the
+Eastern Nubians, with whom they have the same features, language,
+character, and manners. They are the strongest of the four tribes
+who people Taka; the Melikinab are the weakest. All these people
+are partly cultivators and partly Bedouins. Each tribe has a couple
+of large villages built in the desert, on the border of the
+cultivable soil, where some inhabitants are always to be found, and
+to which the whole population, excepting those who tend the cattle
+in the interior of the desert, repairs during the rainy season.
+When the waters subside the Bedouins then spread over the whole
+district, pitching their Douars or camps in those places where they
+hope for the best pasturage, and moving about from month to month,
+until the sun parches up the herbage; the settlers in the village
+meantime sow the ground adjoining the neighbouring desert. The
+camps consist of huts formed of mats, like those of Atbara. There
+are also a few huts with mud walls, resembling those in the
+countries on the Nile, but smaller: even of the settlers, however,
+the greater part prefer living in the open country, under sheds, to
+inhabiting close dwellings. Besides the villages just described,
+there<span class="pagenum" id="Page_393">[393]</span> are others
+within the fertile districts, which are built upon insulated sandy
+spots, like islands, somewhat elevated above the general level. I
+enquired whether there were any marshes, or large ponds of stagnant
+water in Taka, but was answered in the negative.</p>
+
+<p>The encampment where we remained consisted of from one hundred
+and fifty to two hundred tents, divided into four Douars, or
+circles; these were separated from each other by fences lower than
+the general thorny enclosure, by which the whole were surrounded.
+In every settlement in Taka, as at Shendy and Atbara, there are
+several Bouza huts, and many public women, with some of whom even
+the most respectable of the Souakin merchants took up their
+quarters. These women seemed to me to be more decent in their
+behaviour than those of the same description in the countries on
+the Nile; at least they seldom appeared abroad during the day,
+whereas the others were seen walking about at all hours. Both sexes
+wear the common Nubian dress, a Dammour shirt, and a cloke of the
+same stuff thrown over the shoulders. I observed one peculiarity
+amongst the women, that of wearing brass or silver rings on their
+toes; many of them wear leathern aprons, instead of the Dammour
+cloth which the Nubian women generally wrap round the middle; the
+same custom prevails amongst the Bedouins of the Hedjaz. In their
+tents they suspend various ornaments of white shells, Woda
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وضع</span>), from the Red Sea,
+intermixed with black ostrich feathers. All the women go unveiled,
+and the most respectable think it no shame whatever to receive a
+man in their tent, and to be seen chatting with him during the
+husband’s absence. This, however, never happened to me, for
+whenever I presented myself before a tent, the ladies greeted me
+with loud screams, and waved with their hands for me to depart
+instantly. Nothing astonished them more than my beard and
+mustachios; for the beards of the Bedouins never grow long or
+thick, and they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_394">[394]</span> cut
+their mustachios very short, it being a disgrace amongst them to
+wear them long, and considered as great a mark of slovenliness as
+an unshorn beard among Europeans.</p>
+
+<p>In almost every village we found one or two individuals who had
+been on the Hadj, and who exercised the functions of Fakys. They
+are the only persons who trouble themselves about religious
+ceremonies, the people generally being entirely ignorant of the
+Mohammedan law and religion. In some instances they act directly
+contrary to the dictates of Mohammed, as for example, in eating the
+blood of slaughtered animals, which is prepared by placing it over
+the fire till it coagulates, when some salt is mixed with it, and
+butter poured upon it. Cows blood is most esteemed for this dish,
+which is equally common in Darfour, as I was informed by the Negroe
+slaves from that country. They eat no flesh raw excepting the
+liver, or kidneys; these the Arabian Bedouins, and the inhabitants
+of Syria, also eat raw with salt. The raw marrow of cows is
+considered a great dainty. When their cattle is near the encampment
+they live almost wholly upon milk, particularly that of the camel.
+When a company is collected, a large bowl of milk is set on the
+ground in the midst of them, and is handed round at intervals of
+about five minutes, for every one to sip a little; when emptied the
+bowl is filled again, and thus continues as long as the guests
+remain.</p>
+
+<p>The Hadendoa are very indolent; the business of the house is
+left to the wives and slaves, while the men pass the day either in
+paying an idle visit to some neighbouring encampment, or at home
+reclined upon the Angareyg, smoking their pipes, and generally
+going drunk to bed in the evening. To each other they shew great
+hospitality, but towards strangers I never saw a more pitiless race
+of people, which is the more remarkable from its being so contrary
+to the general disposition of the Bedouins, one of
+whose<span class="pagenum" id="Page_395">[395]</span> first
+considerations is how to supply the wants of the stranger.
+Inhospitality to strangers seems to be a marked characteristic both
+of this people and of those of Souakin. In the market village near
+our encampment I could never obtain a drop of water without paying
+for it in Dhourra; and in our own encampment I was obliged to pay
+for the hire of a mat for a few minutes, to spread a little Dhourra
+meal upon in order to dry it in the sun. The poor Negroe pilgrims
+who pass through Taka in their way to Mekka, complain bitterly of
+this want of hospitality. Several of them were here during our
+stay, and lived in the encampment; they used to go round in the
+evening with their wooden bowls to beg for a little bread, when
+they knew that the people were at supper; but from two hundred
+tents they never could collect enough to make a meal sufficient for
+themselves; and myself and companions were obliged to entertain two
+of them every evening at supper. Where no feelings of generosity
+exist, the baser passions easily find access. The people of Taka
+are as noted for their bad faith as for their inhospitality; they
+live in continual broils with each other, which are not terminated
+by open hostility, but by a warfare of treachery, wherein each man
+endeavours to surprise and destroy his enemy by secret
+contrivances. Even in their own encampments they are armed with a
+spear, sword, and shield; and when they go to any distance it is
+generally in parties. During my stay two men were murdered in the
+woods by some persons unknown. The people of the caravan never
+ventured out of the encampment except in large parties; in the
+evening it was our practice to form a small caravan to proceed to
+the wells to fill our water-skins, taking care to keep as close
+together as possible. Treachery is not considered here as criminal
+or disgraceful, and the Hadendoa is not ashamed to boast of his bad
+faith, whenever it has led to the attainment of his object. The
+Souakin people assured me that no oath can bind a man
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_396">[396]</span> Taka; that which
+alone they hesitate to break is when they swear, “By my own health”
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وحياة عافيتي</span>). A Hadendoa
+seldom scruples to kill his companion on the road in order to
+possess himself of the most trifling article of value, if he
+entertains a hope of doing it with impunity; but the retaliation of
+blood exists in full force. Among the Hallenga, who draw their
+origin from Abyssinia, a horrible custom is said to attend the
+revenge of blood; when the slayer has been seized by the relatives
+of the deceased, a family feast is proclaimed, at which the
+murderer is brought into the midst of them, bound upon an Angareyg,
+and while his throat is slowly cut with a razor, the blood is
+caught in a bowl, and handed round amongst the guests, every one of
+whom is bound to drink of it, at the moment the victim breathes his
+last. I cannot vouch for the truth of this, although several
+persons asserted it to be a fact, and I heard no one contradict it.
+I might, perhaps, have come to the knowledge of several other
+strange customs amongst these savages, had I understood their
+language, or met with many of them who spoke Arabic; it was not
+sufficient to have found one or two who were acquainted with that
+language, for they will not endure to be plagued with questions,
+when no advantage is to be gained by answering them, and a
+traveller circumstanced as I was, can only obtain information of
+this kind by listening to general conversation, or by endeavouring
+to draw it insensibly to the subject upon which he wishes to be
+informed.</p>
+
+<p>To treachery the people of Taka add a great propensity to theft.
+We had all occasion to complain of their pilfering habits, but
+particularly a Sowakiny, who lodged in the tent of one of the
+principal Bedouins of the encampment: his leathern sack was cut
+open during the night, and one hundred ounces of gold taken out of
+it. We missed every morning some trifles; but our precautions were
+such, that nothing of value could be taken away without
+awakening<span class="pagenum" id="Page_397">[397]</span> us. One
+day when I was in the market-place measuring some Dhourra, the
+Ferdes (or quarter of a piece) of Dammour, which I had thrown over
+my shoulder to expose it for sale, was taken off without my
+immediately missing it, although all the bye-standers saw the thief
+walking off with it. As soon as I discovered the robbery I pursued
+him, but as I found him armed, and more than a match for me, and as
+others interfered in his favour, I thought myself fortunate in
+recovering two-thirds of the value of the Dammour in Dhourra, the
+thief keeping the remainder to himself for the trouble he had had
+in stealing the whole.</p>
+
+<p>Their own quarrels, and their national enmity to the Bisharein,
+with whom they are never known to be at peace, have rendered the
+people of Taka a warlike nation. They use the same weapons as the
+inhabitants of the Nile countries; bows and arrows are unknown
+amongst them. Their chiefs keep horses, and arm themselves with
+coats of mail. They are said to be brave, but I never saw scars on
+any part of their bodies except the back. The same remark applies
+to all the people of Nubia, where I have never seen any individuals
+with scars upon their breasts, while the backs of most of the men
+bear the marks of large wounds, in which they seem to pride
+themselves. The shield is said to protect the sides from blows. I
+found a custom here, which in my journey towards Dóngola I had been
+told of, as existing among the Bisharein; when a young man boasts
+of his superior prowess, in the presence of another, the latter
+draws his knife and inflicts several flesh wounds in his own arms,
+shoulders, and sides; he then gives the knife to the boaster, who
+is bound in honour to inflict still deeper wounds upon his own
+body, or yield for ever in reputation to his antagonist. They are
+certainly a strong and hardy race of men; and are more robust and
+muscular than any Bedouins I ever saw. During winter they live
+almost wholly upon flesh and milk, tasting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_398">[398]</span> very little bread; and it is to this they
+attribute their strength. The only disease which they dread is the
+small-pox, which made great ravages among them last year, and had
+not yet entirely disappeared; a neighbouring encampment was still
+infected, and all communication had in consequence been cut off
+between it and the surrounding encampments. The disease was first
+brought here by the Souakin merchants, from whence it has spread
+over all the countries on the Nile.</p>
+
+<p>On the skirts of the desert, at a quarter of an hour from our
+encampment, was a village called Souk Hadendoa, or the market-place
+of Hadendoa (the Arabic word Souk <span class="arabic" lang="ar">سوق</span> being used in the native idiom), the residence of
+the great chief of the Taka Hadendoas. On the sands behind the
+village a market is held once a week, which is frequented by great
+numbers of Bedouins and country-people; I visited it twice, and
+occasioned no little amusement and astonishment among the
+strangers, to whom I was an object of the greatest curiosity; but I
+always excited much more contempt and disgust amongst the women
+than amongst the men. The Black traders with whom I lived
+accompanied me to this market, where we sold various articles
+brought from Shendy, for Dhourra, which is the common currency
+here. Bedouins who take dollars are seldom found at Taka, but
+Dammour is in great demand. The following were the articles brought
+to market by the country people, besides <em>cattle</em>. A variety
+of <em>mats and baskets</em> made of reeds, and of the leaves of
+the Doum tree, which is common in the valleys of the<img alt="" class="float-right iw9" src="images/i36.jpg" id="i36"> desert to
+the N. and E. <em>Earthen pots</em> for cooking, and for ablution
+(Ibareik alloudhou <span class="arabic" lang="ar">اباريق
+اللوضو</span>); the latter are of the annexed form, and are bought
+by the Souakin people and carried to the Hedjaz; all the Negroes,
+and other poor Hadjis carry one of them for their daily
+ablutions.—<em>Camel saddles</em>; <em>ropes</em>, made of reeds;
+<em>hides</em>; <em>water-skins</em>; a few
+<em>fowls</em>,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_399">[399]</span>
+which are met with all over Nubia; dried <em>camel’s flesh</em>
+(butter was no where to be procured, the flocks being at a
+distance); the <em>Allobe</em> and <em>Nebek fruits</em>; of the
+latter they make here a sort of viscid jelly, which has an
+agreeable taste. <em>Tama</em>, the bark of a tree similar to that
+which I observed at Shendy under the name of Gyrfe, of like taste,
+and used for the same purposes; in the mountains south of Hallenga
+it is called Basinya. <em>Gum arabic</em>. <em>Gharab</em>, the
+pulse of the acacia, with which leather is tanned. <em>Salt</em>,
+brought from Souakin, which forms a considerable article. <em>Black
+Ostrich feathers</em>; these are the feathers of the female
+ostrich; the white feathers are sold privately to the Souakin
+traders. Some blacksmiths attend the market; a slave works the
+bellows, while the master is employed in mending knives, lance
+heads, or the iron chains which are used for tying the fore legs of
+the camels during the night.</p>
+
+<p>The principal article sold by the foreign merchants is
+<em>tobacco</em>, as well the produce of Sennaar as of Persia and
+the Yemen; that which comes from the latter countries is called
+here Suratty, and is the yellow leaved sort called Tombac in the
+Hedjaz and Egypt, and which is smoked in the East in the Persian
+pipe or Nargyle; being much stronger than the Sennaar tobacco, it
+is preferred in Taka principally for the manufacture of snuff, of
+which the people are very fond; the snuff is prepared by mixing
+natron or salt with the pulverised tobacco. No man or woman is seen
+without a small gourd, the size of a goose’s egg, in which they
+carry their snuff. The Souakin traders sell here also
+<em>natron</em>, which they bring from Shendy; all kinds of
+<em>spices</em>, especially cloves, which are in great demand among
+the Hallenga; <em>incense</em>, <em>beads</em>, and
+<em>hardware</em>; but the chief articles are tobacco, Dammour, and
+cloves. Dhourra is taken in exchange for all these articles, and is
+the main object with the merchants from Souakin, because that place
+depends<span class="pagenum" id="Page_400">[400]</span> solely upon
+Taka for its supply of this necessary of life, none, or very
+little, being cultivated in its neighbourhood. The Dhourra of Taka
+is imported into Souakin in such quantities that many ship-loads of
+it can at any time be sent from thence to Djidda, where it is
+always to be purchased in the markets. I need hardly add, that the
+intercourse between Taka and Souakin is in consequence extremely
+brisk; a fortnight seldom passes without some arrivals from the
+latter place; and as camels are very cheap, the expense of
+transport is proportionally small; nevertheless the Dhourra at
+Souakin was just four times dearer than at Taka, twelve measures
+being sold for one dollar; but it was still sufficiently cheap to
+enable the dealers to transport it to Djidda, and there sell it to
+advantage. During the last famine Taka supplied the whole valley of
+the Nile from Shendy to Mograt with Dhourra. There are several
+market places in the district similar to the one I have described;
+that of the Hallenga is said to be the largest, and Dhourra is even
+cheaper there than it is in this part of Taka. The Tob Dammour was
+there worth from thirty-two to thirty-six Mouds. Several of our
+people rode thither to sell their tobacco.</p>
+
+<p>The direct road from Taka to Shendy is rendered unsafe by the
+incursions of the Shukorye, which obliges the Taka people bound for
+that place to go by Goz Radjeb and Atbara. Small caravans sometimes
+go straight from Taka to Sennaar for Dammour and tobacco; from the
+most southern limits of the Hallenga they travel half a day to the
+village of Menan; from thence three days across a sandy desert,
+without water, to the river Atbara, where its banks are inhabited
+by the Arabs Omran, who speak Arabic. From the Atbara they reach,
+after two days desert journey, the Arabs Dhebdayle (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ضبدايله</span>), who possess considerable herds
+of cows and camels. From thence a journey of one day among woods
+and cultivated spots, to the village of Dender, and two days
+more,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_401">[401]</span> across a
+desert bring them to Sennaar, making in the whole a journey of
+eight or nine days, slow march, but not in a straight line. This
+route is much frequented by the Negroe pilgrims. The above
+distances were given to me by a man from Dar Saley, who performed
+the journey with a boy, and without a guide. He was well treated by
+the Arabs Omran, from whose tents he performed the journey to Menan
+across the desert, without a guide, directing his course by the
+stars. The accuracy of his statements I believe may be depended on.
+The following is the account which I received of the route towards
+Ras el Fil, but I am not so well convinced of its correctness as of
+that of the preceding.</p>
+
+<p>From the last settlements of the Hallengas, one long journey to
+the Arabs Fohara (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فحاره</span>);
+from thence to Wady Omran (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">امرن</span>), one day and a half. To Ayaye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عيايه</span>) one day; and from thence in two
+days to Ras el Fil (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">راس
+الفيل</span>), on the route from Sennaar to Gondar. Three days
+below the Arabs Omran, towards Goz on the Atbara, is a large
+settlement of Shukorye, called Gabaryb (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قباريب</span>), which was stated to be as large as Shendy; its
+name often occurred in the conversations of the people of Taka.</p>
+
+<p>Great animosity seems to prevail between the Hallengas and the
+Abyssinians, the latter never being mentioned by them without some
+opprobrious epithet, the mildest of which is Kafer. I had heard in
+Upper Egypt, and at Berber, that caravans sometimes depart from the
+Hallengas for Massouah; and I was afterwards told at Djidda, by
+some Massouah merchants, that Hallengas were sometimes seen at that
+place with cows for sale; but I could hear of no such intercourse
+during my stay at Taka. The Hallengas have a slight commercial
+intercourse with the Abyssinians of the province called Walkayt.
+Had I seen the least probability of making my way towards Massouah,
+I should have attempted it, for that part of the country appeared
+to me to be very interesting;<span class="pagenum" id="Page_402">[402]</span> it would have led me through the dwellings
+of many tribes who form the links of the chain by which the
+Abyssinians are connected with the Arabs, and whose manners, no
+doubt, present striking originalities; but after what I observed of
+the character of the people of Taka, I did not think that I should
+have the smallest chance of being able to protect my little
+property after quitting my companions the Souakin merchants; and
+from what I saw of the hospitality of these people, I was certain
+that if once stripped I should perish of want. To have engaged one
+of these savages as a guide would have been of little avail, had he
+even proved faithful, as he could not have ensured my safety for
+more than one day’s journey, or as far as the limits of his own
+tribe. I should then have fallen among strangers, all intent upon
+plundering me of whatever I possessed, while I should have had
+nothing to offer in my defence, and could hardly have made myself
+understood, very few people in those parts speaking Arabic. I hope,
+therefore, I shall not be blamed for abandoning this project,
+while, on the other hand, I had reasonable hopes of reaching
+Souakin in safety. I heard at Taka that Souakin and Massouah were
+at equal distances from the Hallengas.</p>
+
+<p>I was not molested during my stay at Taka, and nothing
+particularly disagreeable happened to me; but I learnt afterwards,
+that I had nearly been reduced to a most distressing situation, a
+grown up slave of one of my companions having formed the design of
+stealing my camel, and selling it at a neighbouring encampment, in
+which case I should probably never have recovered it. Our camels
+were driven into the woods every morning to feed, under the care of
+the slaves; mine was entrusted to my own slave-boy; during the
+mid-day heat, when the slaves sometimes indulged in sleep, camels
+belonging to the caravan were occasionally lost, and mine would
+certainly have shared the same fate, had not the man<span class="pagenum" id="Page_403">[403]</span> who intended to steal it
+communicated his intention to another, who informed me of it. I
+complained to his master, who reprimanded him severely, and from
+that day I never permitted my camel to pasture abroad, but kept it
+in the camp, and fed it with Dhourra. To prevent their best camels
+from being stolen, the merchants are in the habit of fastening
+their fore legs with heavy iron chains, which being locked on, and
+not removable without a key, prevent at least any attempt to drive
+off the animal suddenly. The day after our arrival the chief of the
+encampment treated the whole party with a breakfast and supper of
+Dhourra, in a state of thin paste, sent round to each mess. Two
+days after, he ordered a couple of cows to be slaughtered, in
+honour of our arrival; a part of the flesh was intended for my
+companions the Tekaýrne and myself, but the slaves of the Souakin
+merchants got hold of it, and it disappeared in an instant. In
+return for this hospitality we were obliged to make a present to
+the chief, of a Ferde Dammour, equivalent to about twelve measures
+of Dhourra, for each slave in the caravan, which amounted in all to
+nearly twenty times the value of the bread and meat he had given
+us. No direct duties are paid here, neither do the Taka people pay
+any at Souakin.</p>
+
+<p>By the 14th the merchants of the caravan had sold all their
+cotton stuffs and tobacco; and some of them had already set off
+with a small party on their return to Goz Radjeb. We had learnt
+that, on the morning of our departure from opposite that place, the
+Bisharein arrived there in superior force, but that they retired
+again when they found, by the extinguished fires of the caravan and
+the cold ashes, that we had got a long start of them. On the eve of
+our departure from Taka the caravan was joined by several people of
+the place with loads of Dhourra. Our own merchants had converted
+all their goods into Dhourra, and had loaded their camels to the
+utmost they could bear. A large party of Negroe<span class="pagenum" id="Page_404">[404]</span> pilgrims also joined, and we
+formed in all a caravan of about three hundred camels. Our
+departure was extremely irregular; the principal chief had set out
+on the 14th, and we thought that we should remain several days
+longer, when the second chief broke up suddenly, and began to load.
+One of my companions was thus obliged to abandon an outstanding
+debt, which made him a loser to the amount of twenty measures of
+Dhourra; he hesitated long whether or not he should stay behind, in
+order to recover it, and repair to Souakin with some future
+caravan; but prudence got the better of avarice, and we marched off
+early on the morning of the 15th of June. Before our final
+departure we were beset by all the people of the Douar endeavouring
+to obtain some small presents from us before we left them; they had
+plagued us during the whole of our stay, especially the women, who
+left no arts of coquetry untried, in order to possess themselves of
+the objects of their wishes. One of the cousins of the chief, who
+had just been married, was particularly importunate. Knowing that
+she looked on me with disdain and derision, I could not help
+admiring her subtilty and address in persuading me by signs, that
+she had conceived a great affection for me, giving me plainly to
+understand that for a handful of cloves she would refuse me
+nothing. Her own people probably knew that the whole was a trick to
+get from me something of value; it was some satisfaction to me,
+therefore, that all her arts were ineffectual, and that she did not
+succeed in obtaining the smallest present from me.</p>
+
+<p>During the whole of my stay in this encampment, as well as at
+Shendy, I affected the greatest sanctity of manners, imitating, as
+far as possible, the Fakys, whose character is the more respected
+in these countries from their enjoying the reputation of great
+learning, and of exemplary private conduct. This is the character
+of the whole body, but it is well known how unworthy many
+individuals<span class="pagenum" id="Page_405">[405]</span> are of
+it, and that all their actions are governed by hypocrisy.
+Superstitious prejudices, and respect for a religion which appears
+more awful from the great bulk of the people being ignorant of its
+tenets; fear, perhaps, of incantations, and the great respect shewn
+towards each other, still tend to keep up the popular belief that a
+Hadji must be a being superior in virtue and sanctity; and if he
+ever proves the contrary, no one is bold enough to accuse him, as
+the whole body would then become the enemy of the accuser. It is
+much the same with the Olemas in Turkey and Arabia; their real
+character is well known; but they continue to enjoy great credit,
+because no one likes to be the first to raise his hand against
+them; and they are protected by the government, which finds them
+useful in enslaving the multitude, and in directing public
+opinion.</p>
+
+<p class="space-below15">During the two last days of our stay at
+Taka, we were greatly alarmed by intelligence from Souakin that a
+man of Taka had been killed there by a Hadherebe. The Hadendoa
+deliberated whether they should not detain all the individuals of
+the caravan till they knew the result of the affair, and they would
+probably have done it had not another Bedouin arrived soon after,
+with information that the business had been settled by the Souakiny
+paying the price of blood.</p>
+
+<h3>JOURNEY FROM TAKA TO SOUAKIN.</h3>
+
+<p><em>June 15th.</em>—Just as we started a violent wind rose and
+continued the whole of the morning; the sand flew about in every
+direction, and caused us to miss our way. Our general direction was
+N. E. by N. We passed alternately sandy and fertile ground, the
+latter, which traverses the desert in narrow strips, is regularly
+inundated by the waters of Taka. At the end of about four hours
+we<span class="pagenum" id="Page_406">[406]</span> reached the
+extremity of this cultivable tract, where high acacias were
+growing. Here we found the principal chief of the caravan waiting
+for us. In the afternoon we continued in the same direction, over
+the desert plain, and halted after a day’s march of nine or ten
+hours. After sunset we were involved in a violent whirlwind, during
+which the camels became unruly, and we were obliged to remain on
+the spot till it ceased.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 16th.</em>—We continued in the direction of N. E. by N.
+We had now with us eighteen or twenty of the Tekaýrne, or Negroe
+pilgrims. Tekroury, the <em>singular</em> of this name, is not
+derived from a country called Tekrour, as is generally supposed in
+the East, and which has misled all the Arabian geographers, but
+from the verb Takorror (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تكرّر</span>), to multiply, renew, to sift, to purify, to
+invigorate; i. e. their religious sentiments, by the study of the
+sacred book, and by pilgrimage. The appellation is bestowed on all
+Negroes who come from the west, in search of learning (Taleb Olm,
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">طالب عُلم</span>—or simply Taleb),
+or for the Hadj, of whatever country they may be. They do not call
+themselves by this name of Tekroury, which many assured me they had
+never heard till they reached the limits of Darfour. All these
+pilgrims can read and write a little; and they all belong to the
+class styled Faky (<em>plur.</em> Fakiha). I never found any of
+them quite illiterate. After making some progress in the schools of
+their country, (schools being met with in all the Mohammedan
+countries of Africa,) they proceed to Mekka for the Hadj, or in
+order to study the Koran and the commentaries upon it, in that
+place and Medinah; or to Cairo, for the same purpose; but the
+greater part go for the Hadj; at present there are not more than
+twelve in the mosque El Azhar at Cairo, and I did not find above
+double that number in the great mosque at Mekka, where they are
+occupied chiefly in learning the Koran by heart, in the belief,
+that they can never forget a chapter which they have<span class="pagenum" id="Page_407">[407]</span> once learnt in the Beit ullah
+(house of God). The greater part of the Tekaýrne who visit Mekka
+come from the schools of Darfour, the principal of which are at
+Kondjara, in the neighbourhood of Kobbe. Those from the most
+western countries who pass this road are from Bahr el Ghazal and
+Bagerme. All the Black Hadjis from the countries to the west of
+Bagerme, from Bournou as far as Timbuctou, either travel with the
+Fezzan, or great Moggrebyn pilgrim caravan, or proceed by sea from
+the coast of Barbary. Their motives for undertaking the journey
+are, partly a sincere desire to fulfil the precepts of their
+religion, and partly the ambition of enjoying afterwards the credit
+which the Hadj confers in their own country upon those who have
+performed it, and which is of course in proportion to the
+difficulty of the journey.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the Tekaýrne of Darfour and Kordofan are possessed of
+considerable property, and trade during their journey. At Djidda I
+met with a man from Darfour with three or four female attendants,
+and half a dozen female slaves, which formed his household, besides
+the slaves he carried with him for sale; but the greater part of
+them are quite destitute, and find their way to Mekka, and back to
+their own country, by begging, and by what they can earn by their
+manual labour on the road. The equipments of all these pilgrims are
+exactly alike, and consist of a few rags tied round the waist, a
+white woollen bonnet, a leathern provision sack, carried on a long
+stick over the shoulder, a leathern pouch containing a book of
+prayers, or a copy of a few chapters of the Koran, a wooden tablet,
+one foot in length, by six inches in breadth, upon which they write
+charms, or prayers, for themselves or others to learn by heart, an
+inkstand formed of a small gourd, a bowl to drink out of, or to
+collect victuals in from the charitable, a small earthen pot for
+ablution, and a long string of beads hanging in many turns round
+the neck. The Tekaýrne seldom travel<span class="pagenum" id="Page_408">[408]</span> alone, at least they never set out alone
+upon their journey; they generally form parties of about half a
+dozen, and as opportunity offers, join some caravan on the road, or
+proceed by themselves. Their usual route to Mekka is by Siout, by
+Sennaar, or by Shendy. Those from the most western countries meet
+at Darfour; after which, such only as can afford to travel with the
+Darfour caravan, (which requires capital sufficient to buy camels
+and provisions for the journey through the desert), repair to
+Siout, from whence they proceed to Djidda, by the way of Kosseir.
+The pilgrims who go by Sennaar come from Kordofan, and pursue their
+journey by three different routes; viz. 1, through the interior of
+Abyssinia, by Gondar and Axum, to Massouah; 2, along the Nile from
+Sennaar to Shendy; and, 3, from Sennaar to Taka, by the way of Ras
+el Fil, and from thence to Hallenga, by which they escape the
+journey through the desert. Those who travel by the first route
+complain of being ill-treated by the Christians of Abyssinia, of
+never being allowed to enter any house, or even court-yard, and of
+being fed like dogs (as they express it) before the threshold.
+They, however, always obtain a copious evening meal. At Massouah
+they remain a few weeks, till they earn by their labour sufficient
+to pay their passage-money by sea either to the nearest coast of
+Yemen, which is one dollar, or to Djidda, which is two dollars.
+Their usual rendezvous is Hodeyda, the sea-port of Yemen, from
+whence they proceed to Mekka, by land, passing through the
+hospitable tribes of Bedouins in the mountains of the Hedjaz. I
+estimate the number of Negroe pilgrims who pass by this route
+annually to Mekka at about one hundred and fifty, or two hundred.
+Many Tekaýrne are settled in the sea-ports of Yemen, as well as at
+Djidda and Mekka. The third route is preferred by all pilgrims who
+are able to make a common purse in order to buy a camel for the
+transport of water and provisions; and they are sure<span class="pagenum" id="Page_409">[409]</span> of finding at Taka, after a
+short stay, some merchants from Souakin, in whose company they can
+proceed to that place.</p>
+
+<p>The route most frequented by them is that from Darfour or
+Kordofan straight to Shendy. The latter part only of this route
+presents any difficulty; in the inhabited districts they everywhere
+find hospitable people, who pride themselves in giving alms to the
+poor Fakiha. But from the limits of the dominions of Kordofan to
+Shendy is a journey of five days through a desert, without water,
+the dread of which often induces them to take either the circuitous
+route by Sennaar, or to wait at Kordofan for the rainy season, when
+water is found in plenty in the barren tract. At Shendy they
+generally remain some time to recruit their strength, visiting
+every evening the residence of the foreign merchants, and sitting
+down without ceremony to their supper. In general, the Tekroury is
+under little anxiety; wherever he finds himself comfortably
+situated there he will remain for weeks together; and he prefers
+taking a circuitous road of fourteen days through a country where
+he knows that he will find charitable inhabitants, to passing a
+desert or inhospitable tract of only two days. From Shendy they all
+proceed to Damer, and this road is never unfrequented by parties,
+consisting of half a dozen or a dozen of them. On arriving at a
+village they disperse among its families, and re-assemble again in
+the evening to partake in common of the victuals which the charity
+of the inhabitants has provided for them.</p>
+
+<p>At Damer the two principal pilgrim routes separate, and they
+either proceed along the Nile towards Egypt, or ascend the banks of
+the Mogren and Atbara, as far as Goz Radjeb, from whence they cross
+over to Taka and to Souakin. The former is a long but a less
+fatiguing journey; and the nearer they approach Egypt the more
+charity they find among the inhabitants on the Nile. The Arabs
+Sheygya pique themselves on their bounty to the
+Tekaýrne,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_410">[410]</span> in return
+for which the pilgrim is sure to be stripped of every thing of
+value that he may possess. Their little property is tolerably
+secure on the road from Darfour to Shendy, where they are protected
+by the government; but from thence they are in a very different
+predicament. At Shendy they usually exchange whatever they possess
+for gold, as they can secrete it with greater facility than any
+other article of value; but as this is known to be their practice,
+they are frequently ill-treated on the road, in consequence of it.
+I have been assured by many, that among the Bedouins of Atbara and
+Taka, as well as among the Sheygya, they are often stripped to the
+skin, in search of their gold, and that all their books, and even
+their inkstands, are examined, no means being left untried to rob
+them of the little cash or gold they may have about them. The
+Sheygya compensate, in some degree, for their rapacity, by their
+otherwise hospitable conduct; but the Bedouins on the Atbara and at
+Taka are as uncharitable as they are greedy of booty, and subject
+the poor travellers to great hardships.</p>
+
+<p>The pilgrims who follow the course of the Nile, stop a short
+time in the villages of Upper Egypt, in many of which are
+foundations annexed to the revenues of the mosques,<a id="FNanchor_155"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_155">[65]</a> for the entertainment of the passing
+Tekaýrne during three days. At Esne every one receives one piaster
+from the mosque, at parting. If they are entirely destitute of
+money they endeavour, by manual labour, or by writing charms, to
+collect as much as will pay, at the time of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_411">[411]</span> the Hadj their passage from Kosseir to
+Djidda, otherwise they rely on the charity of some Turkish Hadji,
+to pay it for them. The Kosseir route is most usually followed by
+them; few visit Cairo, although there is a public foundation in the
+mosque El Azhar, in which a small number of them, not exceeding, I
+think, forty (for more than that number seldom unite together,
+except in the time of the Hadj), are fed daily with bread and
+broth. Those who pass Cairo follow the great pilgrim caravan to
+Mekka, and the Emir el Hadj has strict orders from the Sultan, to
+furnish with food and water all the Negroes who have no beasts of
+burthen of their own.</p>
+
+<p>The route most frequented by the Negroe pilgrims is that from
+Damer along the Mogren to Taka, and from thence to Souakin; I do
+not over-rate the number who pass this way at five hundred
+annually; as I have before said, they never travel in large
+parties; but a few are seen almost daily passing along the banks of
+the river. At Damer, such as can possibly afford it, buy asses, and
+load them with Dhourra meal for their provisions on the road; these
+proceed in parties of twenty, and make with their sticks a
+determined resistance when assailed by robbers in the open country;
+in the villages or encampments they are certain of protection from
+the chief, at least that they shall not be robbed of their beasts
+and provision. From Taka they proceed with the caravans to Souakin,
+where they wait till they find a ship to convey them to Djidda. The
+usual fare is from one to two dollars. While I was at Souakin, a
+party of at least fifty returned to Taka, because the masters of
+the vessels, then lying in the harbour, refused to take less than
+two dollars for each passenger; they offered one dollar, and this
+being refused, they quitted Souakin with the intention, after
+reaching Taka, of proceeding to Massouah, where they were certain
+that one dollar, which was all they could afford, would provide
+them<span class="pagenum" id="Page_412">[412]</span> a conveyance
+to the coast of the Yemen; for the sake of this advantage they
+entered upon a journey of at least thirty days, and reckoned that
+on so well frequented a road they should be able to defray their
+expenses by labour or by begging. Distance is scarcely ever taken
+into consideration by these pilgrims, nor indeed by any Bedouins or
+traders in those countries; fatigue they care little about; loss of
+time still less; one object only occupies their attention, under
+the two forms of a direct gain and the saving of expense. When I
+come to speak of Souakin, I shall have an opportunity of adding
+some further remarks on the conveyance of these pilgrims by sea;
+and in my description of my journey in the Hedjaz, I shall have
+occasion to recur to the subject, and to describe the proceedings
+of the Tekaýrne after their arrival in Arabia.</p>
+
+<p>It will readily be conceived that the danger and fatigue
+incident to the journey prove fatal to great numbers of the
+pilgrims; perhaps one-sixth fall victims to their zeal; the greater
+part of the diseases by which they are attacked on the road arise
+from their being almost destitute of clothing; many perish in the
+deserts through want and fatigue, and others are murdered; but as
+all who die on the road are looked upon as martyrs, these
+contingencies have little effect in diminishing the annual numbers,
+or in diverting others from their purpose. Although the greater
+number of the pilgrims are stout young men, yet it is not rare to
+see women following their husbands to the Hadj; and almost
+incredible as it may seem, one of the men who joined our caravan at
+Taka was blind. He had come from Borgho, to the west of Darfour, in
+company with three others, and was continually led by a stick,
+which one of his companions held in his hands as he marched before
+him; I saw this man afterwards begging in the mosque at Mekka, and
+again at Medina, sitting on the threshold of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_413">[413]</span> temple, exclaiming, as he
+appealed to the charity of the Hadjis, “I am blind, but the light
+of the word of God, and the love of his prophet, illumine my soul,
+and have been my guide from Soudan to this tomb!” He received very
+liberal alms, and would probably return to his home richer than he
+left it.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the Tekaýrne are men of power and wealth in their own
+country, but travel as paupers, in order to escape the dangers
+attendant on riches in the journey. During our encampment in the
+plain near Souakin, I saw a young Tekroury sleeping in a lonely
+spot, while another, kneeling by him, kept off the flies from his
+face. On enquiry, I learnt from the other Negroes, that he was the
+son of a great chief in Dar Saley, who had been educated with the
+Fakys, and had set out upon this journey, with a camel, and one
+servant only. At Shendy he had exchanged the camel for an ass; the
+servant had become his friend and companion, and both mixed in the
+crowds of the poorest pilgrims. It is principally owing to a few
+examples such as these, that the generality of the inhabitants of
+the countries through which the pilgrims pass are so uncharitable
+and cruel to them; they think that every Tekroury is a king of
+Soudan in disguise, with abundance of gold about him. During the
+Mamelouk government in Egypt, the Begs were very liberal in their
+donations to the Tekaýrne; but the present government shows little
+compassion to them, and no Tekroury is permitted to embark at
+Kosseir, without first paying a fixed rate for his passage to the
+masters of the ships, which almost all belong to the government. In
+Africa, as well as in Arabia, the country people, wherever the
+black Fakys pass, are eager to procure amulets of their writing,
+which are supposed to possess greater virtue than those of any
+other class of pilgrims. There lives at present, in Cairo, near the
+Kara-meydan, a Tekroury, who has been for many years famous for his
+amulets, and who makes large sums of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_414">[414]</span> money by writing them. In general the
+Negroe pilgrims are industrious, and rarely ask for charity where
+they can procure a subsistence by their own labour.</p>
+
+<p>The routes of the Negroe caravans from Kordofan to Dongola or
+Berber, laid down in the Maps of Africa, are at present quite
+unfrequented. There is no direct communication whatever between
+Kordofan and Berber, and that between Kordofan and Dóngola has only
+been established since the arrival of the Mamelouks in those parts.
+The route from Berber to Souakin is seldom chosen by the Hadjis,
+from their dread of the merciless Bisharein, and from the little
+chance they have of joining caravans of traders, who very seldom
+pass this way.</p>
+
+<p>To return to our march, we crossed this morning a tract of flat
+country. At the end of two hours we came to a small pool of water,
+the effect of the rain that had fallen here occasionally for the
+last fortnight, and of which we had several showers during our stay
+at Taka. At about four hours distance on our right was a chain of
+mountains extending in a S. E. direction, and as I computed, from
+two to three thousand feet in height; I was told that they are all
+inhabited by Hadendoas, and that they abound in pasturage. We here
+met a caravan from Souakin, loaded with salt, one of the principal
+articles in the Taka trade; it is brought from Souakin and exported
+by the merchants of Taka towards the Atbara, and among the Bedouin
+tribes in the neighbourhood, where no salt whatever is found. After
+a march of four hours we came to a Wady full of trees and shrubs;
+further on we crossed several other valleys that bore traces of
+violent torrents rushing through them during the rainy season. At
+the end of five hours we stopped in one of the Wadys during the
+mid-day hours. The soil is in general sandy; a species of low oak
+tree, very much resembling the Balout of Syria, grows here; the
+Oshour also abounds. In<span class="pagenum" id="Page_415">[415]</span> the afternoon we entered upon rocky uneven
+ground, where I found fine rose-coloured quartz in thick layers
+among the sand-stone. The chain of mountains seen in the morning
+was no longer visible. At the end of eight hours we halted at Wady
+Lado, a low ground extending in a westerly direction. Here are a
+great many Doum trees, and the valley is full of excellent
+pasturage; it is inhabited by the Bedouins Hadendoa. In summer,
+they procure their water from several wells; but when we passed
+plenty of rain water was found among the clusters of rocks which
+are dispersed through the Wady. A chain of hills runs from hence
+eastward. We alighted early in the evening, that our cattle might
+enjoy the pasture.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 17th.</em>—In riding along a gravelly plain, thickly
+covered with thorny trees, we started several female ostriches,
+which are known from the males by the darker colour of their
+plumage; they at first ran off, without appearing to be much
+frightened; but followed the caravan for upwards of an hour, at the
+distance of about two gun-shots. High mountains were seen far to
+our right. At the end of two hours we came to a large pond of rain
+water. In five hours we reached Wady Ody, where are wells and rain
+water, with thorny shrubs and Doum trees in great plenty. Here was
+a large encampment of Hadendoa, just breaking up in order to retire
+to the eastern mountains, on account of the incursions of the
+Bisharein. We continued our march in this Wady the whole evening;
+it is three or four miles in breadth, the soil very fertile, and
+well irrigated by winter torrents. It is not enclosed by hills, but
+is called a Wady from the flatness of the ground, which in winter
+becomes the bed of a torrent. Our course was N. N. E. The Hadendoa
+here cultivate Dhourra, and a little cotton, the latter apparently
+with more care, than I had any where witnessed since quitting the
+banks of the Nile. The verdure was richer than I had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_416">[416]</span> seen it even at Atbara; the
+ground was covered with Senna Mekke. The black merchants told me
+that this shrub is very common in Kordofan, where it grows to the
+height of four or five feet. A large hedge-hog was found here,
+which the Tekaýrne skinned, and ate in the evening. We halted late
+at night, near the extremity of the Wady, by a pond of water, after
+a long day’s march of ten hours.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 18th.</em>—Some disputes arose this morning between the
+chief of the caravan, and the Sowakin merchants, about the route to
+be taken from hence; and after a march of two hours over generally
+level ground, but not without trees, we stopped in a wood of Syale
+trees, to settle the matter. There were two routes towards Souakin;
+the nearest branches off in a N. E. direction, and lies over steep
+mountains, inhabited by Bedouins; where are many wells, but the
+road is bad, and difficult from the number of ascents and descents.
+The other is more easy, but two days longer; the chief insisted
+upon taking the latter route in order to spare the camels, which
+were heavily laden, while the merchants wished to pursue the
+former. Not being able to agree, the parties separated; the black
+traders and myself remained with the chief; and in the evening we
+were joined by the others, who upon mature consideration, and
+finding the chief determined not to yield to them, thought it would
+be a folly to endanger their safety, in order to accelerate their
+arrival by two days only. In the place where we halted there grew
+many wide spreading trees of moderate height, which had a vast
+number of branches issuing in every direction out of the trunk,
+from the root to the top, and reaching down to the ground; the
+leaves much resembled those of the laurel; I found them to be very
+bitter, and the camels refused to eat them: the Negroes eat of
+them, in order, as they said, to strengthen their stomach
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">يمَكّن البطن</span> Yemakken el
+battn). The Oshour is common here. After marching<span class="pagenum" id="Page_417">[417]</span> three hours farther, or five
+hours from our starting (direction N. E. ½ E.), we halted in a Wady
+of Doum trees, where our slaves killed and ate a quantity of
+locusts. An herb was here collected, the leaves of which resemble
+those of the Meloukhye; when boiled they were thrown into the broth
+with which the Assyde is seasoned. The Assyde is the principal dish
+of the Black traders, and appears to be in general use in every
+part of North Africa; it consists of a thick pap of Dhourra or
+Dhoken meal, over which a sauce made of butter and onions, or
+Bamye, is poured: it is prepared with more care than the Fetyre,
+formerly described, and when the meal is fine, it is far from being
+disagreeable. The Kordofan merchants carried Dhoken in their
+leathern sacks, which is more common with them than Dhourra. Most
+of the traders carried also the stones with which the Dhourra is
+ground, and their slaves were obliged by turns to pass the greater
+part of the night in grinding meal for the provision of the
+following day. Others, and among them myself, had during their stay
+at Taka filled their sacks with Dhourra flour, prepared as already
+described, which is also made into Assyde; it is esteemed more
+wholesome than the other. The slaves eat the Dhourra pap for dinner
+without any sauce or seasoning, except salt; for supper they
+generally boil the grain till it bursts, some salt is then strewed
+over it, and it is eaten by handfuls without butter or sauce. My
+slave was envied by all the others, because he always got his
+dinner and supper with butter, as I did. The Souakin merchants have
+their own dishes better seasoned than those of the slaves, which is
+not the case with the Egyptian traders. Among the former, if a
+slave is much fatigued, or suffers from severe head-ache, of which
+they often complain, he receives a small allowance of butter. Some
+of the merchants had dried flesh with them, which they boiled in
+the sauce of the Assyde. Whenever a camel was killed the flesh was
+cut into strips, and hung exposed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_418">[418]</span> for two days in the sun, round the camels
+saddles until it was sufficiently dried not to putrify; after which
+it was put into sacks. The heat was intense the whole of this day;
+after sunset we had loud thunder with lightning, followed by a
+heavy shower of rain, which set us all afloat. I had a mat which
+afforded me some shelter, but before the night was passed the water
+came through, and I was completely drenched, like the rest; this is
+no trifling inconvenience, when one is unprovided with a change of
+clothes, and when the body is still affected by the heat of the
+preceding day.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 19th.</em>—The morning was fine, and the birds sang so
+sweetly, at sunrise, that even slaves and slave-traders expressed
+their delight. After marching an hour, we entered the mountains;
+this is one of the principal chains in this part of Nubia,
+extending, as far as I could understand, in the direction from NW.
+to SE. for four or five days, on each side of the point at which we
+entered it. A branch of it runs to the north, near the coast, all
+the way to Kosseir. We ascended through a Wady, with steep rocks on
+each side, and we met with several difficult ascents and descents.
+The whole mountain is intersected by Wadys, in all of which trees
+and pasturage are met with. The path was well trodden, and
+tolerably free from stones. At the end of three hours we halted in
+a narrow elevated plain, where acacia trees grew in a soil of sand
+and gravel; it is called Wady Aréwad;<a id="FNanchor_156"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_156">[66]</a> some colossal Doum trees afforded us a
+shade, and we had hoped to find water in a small well near them;
+but it was choaked up with gravel, and we were unable, after long
+digging, to obtain a sufficiency for ourselves and camels. We in
+consequence took off the loads, mounted our beasts, and rode about
+three quarters of an hour to the westward up the rocky slope of the
+mountain, when we came to a large and deep basin of rain
+water<span class="pagenum" id="Page_419">[419]</span> which had
+been filled since last year. This morning I had a narrow escape
+from a Souakiny, who joined me while I was in advance of the
+caravan, and succeeded in leading me astray into a side valley
+about half a mile from the road. He was armed with a lance, while I
+had nothing but a small stick. Luckily for me, at the moment when I
+perceived his intention, I found a thick branch of a tree. He
+laughed when I took it up; but as I could not mistake his object in
+following me, I ordered him to stand off, threatening to become the
+assailant; by this means I made good my retreat, and rejoined the
+caravan. Had this man murdered me and taken the few dollars I had,
+which he probably supposed to be more than they really were, there
+would have been no danger in his returning to the caravan; no body
+on my being missed would have thought it worth his while to make
+any particular enquiries about me, still less to revenge my death.
+This proved an unlucky day to me, for about noon, while I was
+filling my water-skin at the basin, the camel, which I had left
+tied to a tree in the valley below, broke loose, without my
+knowledge, and returned to the resting place, in company of many
+others that were loaded with water. When I carried my water-skin
+down the cliff, I found the camel was gone as well as my companions
+the black traders; no one present would permit me to place the skin
+upon his camel, and as it was too heavy to be carried any distance
+on the shoulder, I was obliged to return to the caravan for my
+camel. By the time I had rejoined the caravan with the water, they
+had began to load; so that after having toiled during the heat of
+the morning and noon, I was obliged immediately to resume the march
+without either food or repose. The merchants who have several
+slaves, are very comfortably situated; cooking, carrying water, and
+loading are left to them, and the master merely adjusts the loads,
+and takes care that nothing be left behind.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_420">[420]</span> During the mid-day hours he sleeps
+soundly under a shed of mats erected for him by his slaves, and is
+only awakened when every thing is ready for departure. My little
+slave became useful to me in this route, in bringing wood and
+tending the fire; but cooking, and fetching water, when it was at
+any distance, fell entirely to my care, as well as the loading of
+the camel.</p>
+
+<p>There are some poor families of Hadendoa in this Wady, who are
+afraid of descending into the plain, on account of the incursions
+of the Bisharein. The rains not having yet set in, there was little
+verdure in this elevated valley; but the lower plain had been
+several times irrigated.</p>
+
+<p>We continued our route in the afternoon, along the narrow plain,
+in a northern direction, for about an hour and a half, when we met
+a small caravan coming from Souakin, and bound to Taka. This was
+the seventh day of their march. On reaching the extremity of the
+plain, we began again to ascend through a narrow sandy valley,
+thickly overgrown with the Seder (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سدر</span>) tree,<a id="FNanchor_157"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_157">[67]</a> a small space in the middle only being open for
+the road. The valley winds very much: it is generally about four
+hundred yards across, but in many places only one hundred, with
+steep cliffs on both sides worn into deep channels by the rains; we
+passed several pools of water; I might therefore have saved all the
+labour I had had in filling my water-skins; but thus it often
+happens in the desert with travellers who are ignorant of the road;
+those who know where the wells or pools are situated, generally
+keep their knowledge secret, and urge the necessity of taking as
+copious a supply as possible, for they have this saying, “We would
+transport the Nile itself, if the camels could but carry
+it.”<span class="pagenum" id="Page_421">[421]</span> Sometimes it
+becomes necessary to load water, even if a well is known to be at a
+short distance, because the caravan is not to halt there, and no
+one ever thinks of stopping alone to fill his water-skins. The
+Oshour and tamarisk trees grow in many parts of the valley, but the
+Seder predominated quite to the upper extremity. On looking back
+towards the plain we had quitted, a vast rocky wilderness presented
+itself with the green strip of the Wady serpentizing through it;
+there was in many parts of the Wady cultivable soil, for wherever
+in these countries water abounds, the most barren sands become
+fertile. The valley every where bore traces of the devastation
+occasioned by the torrents, and the sides of the mountain had been
+so much undermined by them, that the upper layer of rocks had been
+displaced, and was lying about shattered to pieces.</p>
+
+<p>After a march of nine hours, (the general direction NNE.) four
+of which had been occupied in ascending, we came to a spot where
+the valley, having reached the summit, becomes level for about five
+hundred yards; here we encamped. We had met with several Hadendoa
+families near the pools of water, and as they are reputed to be
+great thieves, we determined to continue our march thus far, as we
+thought they would follow us no farther in the woods. One of the
+men asserted that in coming up the valley he had seen a monkey
+among the trees, and I was informed that these animals are not
+unfrequently met with in this place, and that they are very common
+on the western road to Souakin, which leads over the same chain of
+mountains. We saw many Gazelles, and several hares. The heat of the
+day, which had become particularly oppressive in the lower plain
+between the high mountains, was here succeded by a chilling cold.
+We lighted many fires, and the fear of robbers kept us awake the
+greater part of the night. I killed a scorpion just by my fire.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_422">[422]</span><em>June
+20th.</em> The highest summit of the mountain was about three
+hundred feet higher than the elevation on which we were encamped.
+It is from its steep and almost perpendicular cliffs that the
+torrents in the rainy season are precipitated through innumerable
+clefts in the rocks, into this plain, where they divide, part
+rushing towards the northern, and part towards the southern plain.
+We followed, this morning, the bed of the northern torrent, in our
+descent, which was not so steep as the ascent had been. The climate
+of this mountain recalled to my feelings, that of the valleys of
+Mount Lebanon; the fresh morning air breathed a vigour through my
+frame which I had not felt since I quitted Syria. Trees were met
+with during the whole of the descent. At the end of four hours we
+halted where the valley widens considerably; here we found fine
+pasturage among the barren rocks; there were also many Doum trees,
+and some water in shallow pools. The whole aspect of the valley was
+extremely picturesque, at least to a traveller who, after passing a
+desert, hails every spot of verdure as an Eden. A small caravan,
+six days from Souakin, bound for Taka with salt here passed us.
+Several side valleys, all equally full of trees, join the main bed
+of the torrent. After again starting we continued descending very
+slowly for two hours, and then issued where the Wady is lost in the
+open plain; our road then lay over uneven, gravelly ground,
+(direction N. E. ½ N.) and after a day’s march of nine hours and a
+half we halted for the night; the chain of mountains extended to
+the right and left; on the right appearing to take a S. E.
+direction; and on the left dividing into two branches, one of which
+runs to the westward, and loses itself in the desert, and the other
+northwards parallel with the sea shore. Having met several
+straggling parties during the day, we kept close together the whole
+night, for fear of robbers.</p>
+
+<p>The route over the mountain which we had just crossed
+presents<span class="pagenum" id="Page_423">[423]</span> no
+difficulties whatever; the mountain is called by the inhabitants
+Orbay Langay, or the mountain of Langay, and is one of the
+principal features in the topography of Eastern Nubia. It is full
+of pasturage in every direction, but more particularly to the west,
+where many wells and springs are found. I think it probable that in
+the most western point of this mountain the river, or rather great
+torrent, Mogren has its rise, for as I have already said, its
+course does not intersect the caravan route from Atbara to Souakin.
+The mountain Langay is inhabited by Hadendoa Arabs only, and serves
+them as an asylum against the depredations of the Bisharein. The
+Hadendoa who live at several days distance, and the people of
+Souakin also, send their cattle in the summer to this mountain,
+where they are certain of finding pasturage. The Langay forms a
+separation of climates in Eastern Nubia; to the south of it the
+rains had set in for a fortnight, while to the north no rain had
+yet fallen, as appeared both by the dusty ground, and the testimony
+of the Bedouins. At Souakin, I was told that the rains were not
+expected there till the middle of July. In the plains of the
+Bedja,<a id="FNanchor_158"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_158">[68]</a> easterly winds had
+generally prevailed; but in this northern plain we had usually
+northerly breezes. On the south of the mountains, since quitting
+the Atbara, we had never felt any dew during the night, whereas
+heavy dews now fell every night, and continued during our stay at
+Souakin. The whole of this chain consists of primitive calcareous
+rock. I could no where find any petrifactions, nor any granite.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 21st.</em>—We rode this morning over uneven and
+generally stony ground; direction NE. ½ N.; the rocks were quartz
+and grünstein, which latter is met with in every part of Nubia.
+Many low grounds, the beds of torrents, intersected the road. At
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_424">[424]</span> end of three
+hours we halted in Wady Osouyt, near a pool of water. These
+collections of rain water amongst the rocks are often of
+considerable depth; those on the level plain are shallow and of
+greater extent. From Wady Osouyt we continued NW. by N. over a
+plain having exactly the appearance of the Syrian deserts. Low
+shrubs were growing everywhere in a soil that might easily be
+rendered productive. We travelled parallel with the chain on our
+left, and from four to six miles distant from it. This chain is
+called Dyaab, and extends along the coast, I conjecture, as far as
+Kosseir: at first sight it appears barren, but the sheep and goats
+find plenty of herbage in its clefts. We met another caravan of
+about thirty camels, returning unloaded, to Taka. We also passed a
+small encampment of Hadendoa, who had large herds of camels. We
+halted in the plain after a day’s march of ten hours.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 22d.</em>—We travelled over stony ground; direction
+NNW. After three hours march we entered Wady Moez, full of large
+fragments of rocks, among which we rode westward towards the
+mountain, till we reached a well, close to which was a pool of rain
+water; here we found flocks of sheep and many camels, which the
+Hadendoa shepherds had been watering. Notwithstanding the steepness
+of the mountain there are trees to its very summit, exhibiting an
+interesting and novel sight to me, who had seen nothing like it
+since I quitted Syria. There are numberless ravines through which
+the torrents are precipitated into the plain during the rains, when
+they must form so many cascades boiling over the rocks, and
+presenting altogether a grand spectacle. Many Seder trees grow in
+the plain. Here again the slaves caught locusts, which they roasted
+over the fire, after taking out the entrails. From Wady Moez we
+continued over even but rocky ground, four hours farther, when we
+halted.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_425">[425]</span><em>June
+23d.</em> The country before us presented a valley (called Wady
+Osyr) of at least four hours in breadth, bordered on the east side
+by low hills. We continued our route close to the high western
+chain; the whole plain is full of trees and shrubs, and in every
+low ground was herbage, now parched up. We passed another
+encampment of Hadendoa, with large herds of camels; they appear to
+live here in perfect security from any surprise by their enemies.
+We also met a travelling party of Hadendoa, with their women and
+tents; the women were seated upon the camels, on high saddles
+fantastically decorated, with three or four poles sticking out in
+front, beyond the animal’s head, having the extremities ornamented
+with large bunches of black ostrich feathers. The African, like the
+Arabian Bedouins, seem to display elegance of equipment in the
+decorations of their women only: leathern tassels of different
+sizes, small bells, and white shells, from the Red Sea, contributed
+to the ornament of the harness and saddles of the camels. None of
+the women passed me without uttering a loud shriek, and then
+laughing. After marching two hours and a half, we halted under a
+thick cover of acacia trees, in low ground, called Wady Shenkera.
+The slaves had to bring water from an hour’s distance in the
+mountain. We here collected the same herb which I have already
+mentioned, to season our Asyde. A few poor women came to sell us
+milk and to beg a little Dhourra, which is scarce among these
+Bedouins; they draw their supplies from Taka, but they live
+generally upon milk and flesh only. We continued travelling in Wady
+Osyr during the evening, NE. b. E. and halted for the night after a
+day’s journey of eight hours and a half.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 24th.</em>—During the night the chief of the caravan
+and several of the principal merchants left us, and being well
+mounted upon dromedaries, expected to reach Souakin the next day.
+We started<span class="pagenum" id="Page_426">[426]</span> before
+sunrise. The eastern hills terminate in this latitude; and the sun
+was just rising beyond them, when we descried its reflection at an
+immense distance in the sea, affording a pleasing sight to every
+individual in the caravan, but most of all to me. The slaves asked
+whether it was the Nile, for they had never heard of any other
+great water or sea, and the Arabs apply the same word Bahr
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بحر</span>) both to the sea and to
+the Nile. A plain which lay between us and the sea appeared to
+consist of barren sand, covered towards the sea with a superstratum
+of salt. Our road continued among trees and the beds of torrents
+which empty themselves into the sands. After a march of three hours
+and a half we reached Wady Shinterab in which is a copious spring,
+but the water has a brackish taste; it collects in a basin, and can
+only be drank by man when sweetened by rain water. Around this well
+are some rocks of gray granite, the only granite I had seen since
+quitting the hills of Goz Radjeb. A good deal of Senna Mekke grows
+here. A very wild rocky valley branches off into the chain on the
+left. The Wady Shinterab forms a very large torrent during the
+rainy season; it is at least three hundred yards broad, and about
+twelve feet deep. Farther on the ground was uneven, and the road so
+very rocky, that the camels proceeded along it with difficulty.
+There was a beaten path the whole of the way we had come from the
+Langay, and it continued as far as Souakin. After a journey of six
+hours and a half, direction NE. by N. we halted in a Wady full of
+verdure, where our cattle were driven to pasture.</p>
+
+<p>A camel belonging to one of the Kordofan traders fell and was
+killed during this day’s march. The Souakin merchants, who proved
+themselves on every occasion to be destitute of every feeling of
+compassion or charity, passed on without shewing the least
+disposition to aid the owner in his distress. My camel was the
+strongest in the party, I therefore volunteered my services,
+and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_427">[427]</span> transferred the
+greater part of the dead camel’s load to mine, which obliged me to
+perform the remainder of the journey to Souakin on foot. The
+merchant to whom the camel belonged had several times ordered his
+slaves to cook my supper and bring me water, when he had seen me
+exhausted by fatigue, and it thus became my duty to repay his
+kindness.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 25th.</em>—We set out soon after midnight, and
+travelled over a rocky plain. When the sun rose, we saw the sea
+about five hours distant. The soil now began to be strongly
+impregnated with salt; a bitter saline crust covering its surface
+in many places to the depth of several inches. The atmosphere
+arising from this soil, rendered still more saline by the sea
+breezes, had made the branches of all the trees as black as if they
+had been charred; and it was with difficulty that the herds of
+camels of forty or fifty together, could find out a few green
+leaves. I had never seen the camel so nearly approaching to a wild
+state. Whole herds are here left to pasture without the care of
+either men or dogs; the Hadendoa keep them almost entirely for
+their milk and flesh, very few being employed as beasts of burthen;
+they appeared to be frightened at the approach of men and of loaded
+camels, a circumstance I had never witnessed before. In the Arabian
+and Syrian deserts, the camels when grazing come running and
+frisking towards any strange camel which they perceive at a
+distance, and they easily obey even the call of strangers, provided
+they are Bedouins like their own masters. The herds of camels which
+we saw this day were, like those of Nubia, in general of a white
+colour. The acacia trees in this plain are stunted, owing to the
+violent winds to which they are exposed. I observed a parasitic
+species of cactus growing upon all of them, and completely covering
+some of them like a net.</p>
+
+<p>After marching about four hours, we took the direction
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_428">[428]</span> N. by E. and
+approached a mountain branching into the plain, from the main chain
+of Dyaab. It is called the mountain of Gangerab, and is inhabited
+by families of Hadendoa, who supply Souakin with butter and milk
+during the summer, when no cattle is to be found near that place.
+We encamped during the mid-day hours at some distance from the
+mountain, and were much distressed for water, having taken a very
+small supply on the 23d. The Souakin merchants, who knew the
+country well, hired without our knowledge, an Arab who brought them
+several camel loads of water from the mountain, which we in vain
+intreated them to share with ourselves and slaves. No idea can be
+formed by Europeans of the quantity of water necessary for
+drinking, cooking, and washing during a journey through these
+countries, but more particularly to allay the thirst of the
+traveller, whose palate is continually parched by the effects of
+the fiery ground and air, who has been confined perhaps for several
+days to a short allowance of water, and who lives upon food which,
+consisting of farinaceous preparations and butter, is calculated to
+excite thirst in the greatest degree. It is a general custom in the
+caravans in these parts, as well as in the Arabian deserts, never
+to drink, except when the whole caravan halts for a few minutes for
+that purpose; the time of doing this is, in the slave caravans,
+about nine o’clock in the morning, and twice during the afternoon’s
+march, namely about four and six o’clock. In the forenoon also
+every one drinks at the halting of the caravan, and again after the
+meal; and the same rule is observed in the evening. To drink while
+others do not, exposes a man to be considered effeminate, and to
+the opprobrious saying, that “his mouth is tied to that of the
+water-skin.” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فمه مربوط علي خشم
+القربه</span>—Fomoh marboutt alá kháshm el gerbé), and it is
+otherwise imprudent, as the opening of his water-skin at an unusual
+time subjects the traveller to importunities which it is not
+always<span class="pagenum" id="Page_429">[429]</span> prudent to
+reject; but none thinks of asking such a favour when the whole
+caravan halts to drink. Those who have many slaves fill the large
+wooden bowl in which dinner is served up, and place it upon the
+ground, when the slaves kneel down and drink out of it half a dozen
+times, as cattle do out of a trough; this is done to prevent the
+waste of water that would be occasioned by each having a separate
+allowance. Travellers in these journeys drink a great quantity of
+water when it is plentiful; I do not exaggerate when I say that I
+have often drank in the afternoon, at one draught, as much as would
+fill two common water-bottles. To drink three or four times a day
+is considered short allowance; few Blacks and Arabs, when water is
+abundant, drink less than six or seven times daily; but when the S.
+E. wind blows no quantity is sufficient to keep the mouth moist,
+and one wishes to drink every quarter of an hour. The stories
+related by the Bedouins to the town’s-people, of their remaining
+often two or three days in the desert without drinking, are mere
+fables. In all parts of Nubia, at least in the caravan routes,
+travellers can never be in very great distress from want of water,
+if the wells are not dried up. The only portions of the road, of
+any length, without water, are from Goz Radjeb to Sennaar, and from
+the frontiers of Kordofan to Shendy. Yet the Black traders often
+suffer from want of water, even where the wells are near, because
+their avarice leads them to load their camels so heavily with
+merchandize, that they have no room for a plentiful supply of
+water. The usual computation is that a middling sized skin or Gerbé
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قربه</span>) holding about fifty or
+sixty pounds of water, will serve a man for three days, if he is
+alone, or four men for one day, if they mess together.</p>
+
+<p>The Arabs call the halt at noon, el Keyale (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">القيله</span>). They say, “Nahun kayalna fi el mattrah el
+fulani” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نحن قيلناَّ في المطرح
+الفلاني</span>). “We halted in such a place.” The chief, in giving
+orders to alight, cries out: “Keyaloua<span class="pagenum" id="Page_430">[430]</span> ikhouatna (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قيلويا اخواتنا</span>) Brothers, let us alight. When the
+caravan is to set out again, he exclaims, Esshedeid, Esshedeid
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الشديد</span>, from <span class="arabic" lang="ar">شدّ</span> to tie fast the ropes of the loads.)
+In the evening he gives the word Hottoué, (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حطّوا</span>), to rest. Thus an Arab, when relating the
+history of his day’s march, says, “Komna fi el fadjer, wa keyalna
+alá el ma’a, wa shaddeyna wa ed-dhal bettoul es-shaksz, wa baad el
+nizoul hatteyna, wa beitna fi mattrah el fulani.” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قمنا في الفجر و قيّلنا علي الماء و شدّينا و الظل
+بطول الشخض و بعد النزول حطينا و بيتنا في المطرح الفلاني</span>). We
+started at day break, we rested at noon near the water, we set out
+again, when a man’s shadow was equal to his length, and after
+sunset we alighted and slept, in such and such a place.</p>
+
+<p>The Souakin caravans, like those of the Hedjaz, are accustomed
+to travel in one long file; the Egyptians, on the contrary, march
+with a wide extended front; but the former method is preferable,
+because if any of the loads get out of order, they can be adjusted
+by leading the camel out of the line, before those behind have come
+up; in the latter case, the whole caravan must stop, when any
+accident happens to a single camel. The caravans from Bagdad to
+Aleppo and Damascus, consisting sometimes of two thousand camels,
+marching abreast of each other, extend over a space of more than a
+mile. Our Souakin traders obliged their slaves to lead each of the
+camels by a halter, and upon every false step made by the animal
+they applied the whip to the leader.</p>
+
+<p>I was much amused by a circumstance which took place to day,
+during our halt at noon: the black merchants had bought a sheep,
+and after it was killed a part of the meat was distributed among
+the slaves; some of it was offered to me, but I refused it, because
+meat always made me very thirsty; it had this effect upon the
+slaves who ate it, and unfortunately for them, their masters had no
+water left in the Gerbes. A boy came to me with a bone he had just
+been gnawing, and offered it to me, remarking that the
+best<span class="pagenum" id="Page_431">[431]</span> part of the
+meat was still remaining on it, if I would give him a drink of
+water for it; ‘my master,’ he added, ‘has sent to Gangerab with the
+Souakin people, and if his water-skins return filled, I faithfully
+promise to repay you the draught.’ The greediness of this little
+fellow in devouring his allowance of meat, together with his
+attempt to cheat me, by offering me the bone, and promising what he
+knew he could not perform, presented as complete a picture of the
+Oriental character in low life, as could be drawn: he failed
+however in his artifice, for I drank with my slave the last drop of
+water left in the skin.</p>
+
+<p>We had a long afternoon’s march over the saline plain. I saw a
+Gazelle of the largest size, almost as tall as a stag, with long
+pointed horns. A Souakiny approached it near enough to throw his
+lance at it, but missed it. Towards sun-set we came in sight of
+Souakin, and halted near a small village, or rather encampment,
+after a day’s march of ten or eleven hours. The greater part of the
+merchants proceeded immediately to the town; but myself and
+companions thought it more prudent to enter it in the day time.</p>
+
+<p><em>June 26th.</em>—We reached the invirons of Souakin at the
+end of two hours, and pitched our little sheds at about twenty
+minutes walk from the town.</p>
+
+<p><em>Souakin</em> (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سواكن</span>)
+is situated at the extremity of a narrow bay, about twelve miles in
+depth and two in breadth. Towards the bottom of the bay are several
+islands, upon one of which the town itself is built, separated from
+its suburb, called El Geyf (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">القيف</span>), which stands on the main land, by an arm of the
+sea about five hundred yards wide. The harbour is on the east side
+of the town, and is formed by a prominent part of the continent.
+The arm of the sea on the west side affords no anchorage for ships
+of any size. The islands, as well as the whole of the surrounding
+country, are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_432">[432]</span> sandy,
+and produce nothing but a few shrubs, or low acacias. The town upon
+the island is built in the same manner as Djidda; the houses have
+one, or two stories, are constructed of blocks of madrepores, and
+have a neat appearance; but the greater part of them are falling to
+decay; the suburb El Geyf, on the contrary, is rapidly increasing
+in size and population, and is now larger than the town itself. On
+the south-east side of the town, near the harbour, some ancient
+walls indicate the former existence of fortifications. It is within
+the precincts of these walls that the Aga resides, and the ships
+generally anchor just under the windows of his house. Two or three
+rusty iron guns lie dismounted upon the rubbish of the ruined
+walls, which at present afford not the slightest protection to the
+town. The Aga’s house is a mean building, but commands a fine view
+over the bay towards the sea; near it are some warehouses, and a
+wharf, at which were lying the shattered hulls of several small
+ships, for no body has here the means or skill to repair vessels
+when once damaged.</p>
+
+<p>The number of houses in Souakin is about six hundred, of which
+two-thirds are in ruins, for the madrepore with which they are
+built soon decays, unless constantly kept in repair. The only
+public buildings in the town are three mosques. In the suburb El
+Geyf are a few houses of stone, built rather in the Soudan than
+Arabian style, having large courtyards; the other dwellings are
+formed of mats, like those of the Nubian Bedouins. El Geyf contains
+one mosque.</p>
+
+<p>At half an hour’s distance from El Geyf are the wells which
+supply Souakin, the suburbs, and the shipping, with water; they are
+about a dozen in number, and within fifty yards of each other; near
+them stand a few Nebek trees. One of the wells is lined with stone,
+the others are mere holes dug in the ground. The water of a few of
+them is tolerable, but in none of them is it good. In
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_433">[433]</span> town are
+cisterns for holding rain water; but they are in ruins, and nobody
+will incur the expense of repairing them.</p>
+
+<p>All those concerned in the maritime trade, and about the
+shipping, and those connected with the government, reside upon the
+island, while the native Arabs and the Soudan traders live in the
+Geyf, where the market is kept.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Souakin, like those of all the harbours in
+the Red Sea, are a motley race; one principal class, however, is
+conspicuous; the forefathers of the chief families of the Arabs of
+Souakin were natives of Hadramout, and principally of the town of
+Shahher, the harbour of that country in the Indian ocean. They came
+hither, according to some, about a century ago; others state that
+they arrived soon after the promulgation of the Islam; it is from
+them that the collective population of the town has obtained the
+name of Hadherebe<a id="FNanchor_159"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_159">[69]</a> with foreigners; but the inhabitants themselves
+draw a strict line of distinction between the true Hadherebe, or
+descendants of the natives of Hadramout, and the other settlers,
+whom they term Souakiny (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سواكني</span>). To the latter belong many individuals of the
+Bedouin tribes of Hadendoa, Amarer, the Bisharein, and others of
+Arabian and of Turkish origin. The former are intimately mixed with
+the Hadherebe, and retain their Bedouin names even in the town.
+Those of Turkish origin are, for the most part, descendants of
+Turkish soldiers, who, in the beginning of the sixteenth century,
+during the reign of Selim the Great, were sent here, after that
+emperor had conquered Egypt, to garrison Souakin, in the same
+manner as those who occupied Assouan, Ibrim, and Say.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_434">[434]</span> Many of them assert that their
+forefathers were natives of Diarbekr and Mosul; but the present
+race have the African features and manners, and are in no respect
+to be distinguished from the Hadherebe. There are at Souakin also a
+few Turkish merchants, masters of ships, refugees, &amp;c. &amp;c.
+descended from later settlers; but these have long forgotten the
+Turkish language, and are now connected both by interest and
+consanguinity with the descendants of the people from the towns of
+Arabia, who are numerous here, and who wear the dress of the
+inhabitants of the towns in the Hedjaz, and have all the customs
+and manners of that country. Thus two principal races of people are
+conspicuous in Souakin: 1. the Bedouins, who comprise the
+Hadherebe, Hadendoa, &amp;c. &amp;c., including the descendants of
+the ancient Turks: 2. the towns-people, who are either Arabs of the
+opposite coast, or Turks of modern extraction. The Bedouins
+intermarry among themselves; but it is difficult for a townsman to
+obtain a Bedouin girl; the daughters of the principal families are
+given to none but Bedouins. The latter inhabit the suburbs El Geyf;
+the towns-people live upon the island.</p>
+
+<p>The government of Souakin is in the hands of the Emir el
+Hadherebe, who is chosen from among the first families of the
+tribe; these are five in number, and are distinguished from the
+others by the Bisharye word Orteyga, which means Patricians. The
+jurisdiction of El Geyf is in the hands of the Emir, but his
+authority over the Bedouins is trifling, though he presides in
+their councils. He is nominally dependent upon the Pasha of Djidda,
+but his conduct is regulated by the strength or weakness of his
+superior. When the Sherif Ghaleb held Djidda, and was hard pressed
+on all sides by the Wahabi, the Emir was quite independent of the
+Sherif; since the conquest of the Hedjaz by Mohammed Aly, Pasha of
+Egypt, he has entered into<span class="pagenum" id="Page_435">[435]</span> terms with the Pasha. He is confirmed
+annually in his office by whoever happens to be governor of Djidda,
+and is generally invested with the power of collecting in the Geyf
+the customs which the Hadherebe levy upon the caravans from the
+interior. For several years he had paid nothing for this privilege
+to the Sherif; at present his fear of Aly Pasha leads him to
+purchase the collectorship annually at the rate of about forty
+ounces of gold, or eight hundred Spanish dollars.</p>
+
+<p>The Emir has no insignia of royalty about him, except his yellow
+Turkish slippers, which, according to ancient custom, he is obliged
+to wear, and the small Takye, or Arabian bonnet; these form a
+singular contrast with his Bedouin dress; and as it is not thought
+decorous to wear the bushy Bedouin hair with the bonnet, he is
+obliged also to shave his head. He has two or three men attached to
+his establishment, as officers, or spies to find out the exact
+number of slaves and merchandize imported by every caravan. He
+resides in the Geyf, and is altogether different from the Shikh of
+the Hadherebe, who has nothing whatever to do with the Turkish
+government, being chosen merely for the administration of their
+internal affairs.</p>
+
+<p>The Turkish government is represented in Souakin by a custom
+house officer, who lives on the island, and who bears the title of
+Aga. He commands the town, but his influence is greatly
+circumscribed by the power of the Hadherebe; it is at present even
+insignificant, and before the conquest of Arabia by Mohammed Aly it
+must have been held in great contempt. The Pasha of Djidda is also
+Waly (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">والي</span>) or governor of
+Souakin, and has therefore the right to send a representative here;
+a right which has never been disputed by the Souakinese, although
+they preserve the tradition that Souakin, before it was annexed to
+Djidda, had its own Pasha, sent from Constantinople. The Aga has no
+other means of maintaining the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_436">[436]</span> little authority he possesses, than by
+living on good terms with the Emir, whom he either permits, or aids
+to extort sums from weak individuals in the Geyf, in order that he
+may receive the Emir’s assistance in the collection of the customs
+on the island. During late years the Aga has farmed the customs of
+the maritime commerce of Souakin, and has paid annually into the
+treasury at Djidda three thousand two hundred dollars for this
+privilege; it is supposed that he gains two or three thousand
+dollars a year by it, and that this sum might be doubled if the
+customs were strictly paid; but very little can ever be obtained
+from the Hadherebe, who are the richest individuals. The customs
+are levied upon all merchandize imported, principally India goods
+and spices destined for the Soudan markets, and upon all the
+imports from Soudan which are shipped at Djidda for other
+countries, consisting chiefly of slaves, horses, and tobacco; two
+dollars are paid on every slave, and three on every horse. Dhourra
+passes duty free, as do the articles which remain in Souakin.</p>
+
+<p>The Aga is either re-appointed, or a new one sent, annually. The
+present Aga is a man of the name of Yemak (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">يمك</span>), a native of Djidda, whose father was a Hadji
+from Mosul, settled in the Hedjaz. In the time of the Sherif, Yemak
+was the buffoon of the court, and a broker in the market of Djidda.
+When Mohammed Aly arrived, he ingratiated himself with the Osmanlis
+by means of his scanty knowledge of their language, and after
+having served the Turks as a mediator with, and spy upon the
+Sherif, he was appointed to his present situation. He is a man of
+the meanest disposition, and has rendered himself ridiculous by
+affecting to adopt the Osmanli customs in such a place as Souakin;
+the titles of Khaznadar, Selehdar, Kahwedji Bashy, Bash Keteb,
+&amp;c. which are those of a Pasha’s officers of treasurer,
+sword-bearer, cup-bearer, chief secretary, &amp;c.; are bestowed by
+him upon his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_437">[437]</span>
+miserable servants; young slaves wait on him, in imitation of
+Mamelouk boys, and he talks with as much consequence as a Pasha of
+three tails, intermixing his broad vulgar Arabic dialect with a few
+Turkish expressions. The Aga has five or six soldiers of the
+mercenaries of Yemen, such as are found in the service of the
+Sherif of Mekka and of all the chiefs of Arabia; they are paid by
+the Aga out of his own revenues; and they form the only garrison of
+Souakin, whence it may easily be conceived that the Turkish
+authority is little respected here. These soldiers hardly dare stir
+out of the island, for fear of being insulted; and the Aga himself,
+for obvious reasons, never enters the Geyf. When any disputes
+happen, the Hadherebe generally interfere, and the Aga is obliged
+to waive his authority. The Bedouins pay only half the customs
+levied upon other traders; and I have often heard them plainly tell
+the Aga that they had no money to pay more. The soldiers who,
+during the night, are put into the ships anchored under the Aga’s
+windows to watch for smugglers, frequently get a beating or a
+ducking: even the Aga is insulted in his own house; yet he bears it
+all with complacency, and tells the people that if he were not so
+much their friend, he would write thundering letters to the Pasha,
+and draw a terrible storm upon their heads. When the Bedouin who
+has insulted him is gone, he curses him behind his back in Turkish,
+and vents his rage upon his own servants: he one day said to me,
+when a Bedouin, who in the heat of dispute had called him a liar
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">انت كذاب</span>), had just left the
+room, “You see me put up with these people; but they will at last
+learn to know the resentment of the Turkish government, for the
+vengeance of the Turks when once exerted is terrible. I continue to
+ward off the arm of vengeance from them, because if the Pasha were
+to send an expedition, the whole place would be ruined, and many
+innocent<span class="pagenum" id="Page_438">[438]</span>
+individuals would perish.” In fact, were it not for their secret
+apprehensions of such an expedition from Djidda, which might with
+the greatest ease suddenly fall upon them and destroy both towns,
+this people would, no doubt, throw off all submission, and publicly
+assert their independence. But the smallest brig of war might
+compel the place to surrender. About twenty or thirty years since a
+Pasha of Djidda sent hither a corps of about two hundred soldiers,
+who plundered the Geyf; they were afterwards besieged for some time
+by the Bedouins, in the governor’s house, and adjoining buildings,
+but they contrived at last to get off with their booty. The Wahabi,
+after the conquest of Mekka, sent two commissioners to Souakin, to
+exhort the people to embrace the doctrines of their chief; but they
+were not permitted to proceed to Geyf, and were obliged soon to
+re-embark. During the power of the Wahabi the people of Souakin
+were allowed to trade with Djidda; but Saoud, the Wahabi chief, who
+had seen several of them at Mekka, with their bushy hair white with
+grease, obliged them to cover their heads with a handkerchief, like
+the Arabian Bedouins.</p>
+
+<p>The Hadherebe, and the Bedouins of Souakin, have exactly the
+same features, language, and dress, as the Nubian Bedouins. They
+are clothed chiefly in the Dammour imported from Sennaar; but the
+better classes of both sexes wear the Nubian shirt, made of Indian
+cambric; they have, however, one dress, which is seldom seen in
+other parts of Nubia; it consists of a long piece of cambric, one
+end of which is wrapped round the loins, while the other, thrown
+across the breast and left shoulder, hangs loosely down over the
+back, leaving the legs, and the greater part of the upper body,
+entirely naked: this is the favourite negligé of the Hadherebe; and
+if to it be added a handsome pair of sandals, three or four large
+amulets hanging over the left elbow, like those worn in the
+countries on the Nile, a sword and Korbadj in the hands, the thick
+and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_439">[439]</span> bushy hair
+white with grease, and a long wooden skewer sticking in it, to
+scratch the head with, the whole will afford a tolerable picture of
+a Souakin Bedouin. In general they have handsome and expressive
+features, with thin and very short beards. Their colour is of the
+darkest brown, approaching to black, but they have nothing of the
+Negroe character of countenance. They are a remarkably stout and
+muscular race.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Souakin have no other pursuit than that of
+commerce, either by sea, or with Soudan. They export the
+commodities which they receive from the African continent, to all
+the harbours of the Hedjaz and Yemen, down to Mokha, but chiefly to
+Djidda and Hodeyda. In Djidda they have a quarter of the town
+allotted exclusively to themselves, where they live in huts made of
+rushes, like those of El Geyf. Many of the Hadherebe Bedouins,
+after visiting Sennaar, perform the journey to the Arabian coast,
+but others sell their African merchandize to the traders in
+Souakin, by whom they are exported to Arabia. Besides the articles
+of trade from Shendy and Sennaar; namely, slaves, gold, tobacco,
+incense, and ostrich feathers, no ship leaves Souakin for any part
+of the Arabian coast, without having its hold filled with Dhourra
+from Taka; and they furnish nearly the whole of the Hedjaz with
+water-skins, leathern sacks, and leather in hides; the water-skins
+are bought up in the five principal towns of the Hedjaz, as well as
+in the open country; the sacks are bought by the Bedouins only, who
+use them to carry their provisions in. These articles form a very
+profitable branch of trade, for as cattle in general is very scarce
+in the Hedjaz, from the want of pasturage, and as great numbers of
+water-skins are wanted for the pilgrims to Mekka, the skin sowed up
+is worth as much at Djidda as the sheep is worth at Souakin. They
+are also exported, but in smaller quantities, to the Yemen; and I
+have seen them in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_440">[440]</span>
+the market of Suez; they are preferred to all other water-skins, on
+account of the well-tanned leather and the excellence of the
+sewing. The hides are tanned as in Upper Egypt, and along the Nile
+with the pulse of the acacia, which I have frequently had occasion
+to mention (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الجلود مدبوغين
+بالقَرَض</span> El djeloud madboughin b’el karad.) All the Bedouins
+in the vicinity of Souakin, sell their hides in the market there,
+and take Dhourra in return. The leather and cow-hides which are
+exported to Djidda, are used in Arabia to make sandals; but the
+best hides imported into the Hedjaz come from Massouah. Souakin
+also exports <em>butter</em><a id="FNanchor_160"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_160">[70]</a> to Djidda. During the Hadj, both Mekka and
+Djidda principally depend upon Souakin and Massouah for this
+article; its consumption is very great in those places, where it is
+used by all ranks, and where the poorest man will expend half his
+daily income in order to have plenty of butter to his dinner, and
+that he may drink at least a quarter of a pound of it every morning
+for his breakfast. While I resided at Djidda butter rose to one
+half above its usual price, because two ships loaded with it from
+Massouah had sold their cargoes in the Yemen, instead of proceeding
+to Djidda. <em>Mats</em> made of Doum-leaves, of which every ship
+takes a quantity; they are in general use throughout the Hedjaz and
+Yemen, where Doum trees are scarce, and where few people condescend
+to earn a livelihood by manual labour. The floors of the mosques at
+Mekka and Medina are covered with these mats, which are renewed
+almost annually by the donations of the pilgrims; and few Hadjis
+quit Mekka without taking with them a very small neatly made
+Souakin mat, in the shape of a carpet, for the purpose of kneeling
+upon when they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_441">[441]</span>
+pray. The mats are manufactured by the Bedouins in the mountains
+near Souakin. A small <em>shell-fish</em>, very common on the
+African coast, is also exported to Djidda. It is eaten chiefly by
+children and poor people; it is called Sorúmbak (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سُرُمباق</span>), and is supposed, from its
+astringent properties, to be a remedy for the dysentery. Dhourra,
+water-skins, and mats are exported also to Hodeyda, in the Yemen,
+which is the principal market for the horses brought by the Souakin
+merchants from the Nile countries. I have already mentioned that
+the Sherif of Yemen eagerly purchases African stallions to remount
+his cavalry; a horse worth about twenty-five dollars at Shendy, is
+sold at Hodeyda at one hundred or one hundred and fifty; but the
+risks are great, and many of the horses die during the passage from
+want of proper care on board the small country ships. Dromedaries
+of the Bisharye race, which is the finest in existence, are put on
+board the larger ships, and carried to Djidda. If they arrive safe,
+they are sold at from sixty to eighty dollars each, or about eight
+times the sum paid for them at Souakin; but half at least of those
+embarked die on the passage; the freight for each is ten
+dollars.</p>
+
+<p>At Djidda the Souakin merchants purchase all the Indian goods
+wanted for the African markets, together with those articles of
+luxury which are in demand in Souakin; such as dresses and
+ornaments for the women, household utensils, and several kinds of
+provision for the table, such as Indian sugar, coffee beans,
+onions, and particularly dates, which are not produced in any part
+of Eastern Nubia. A good deal of iron is likewise imported from
+Djidda, for lances and knives; they are manufactured by common
+smiths, who are the only artisans I saw in Souakin, except masons
+and carpenters, and who furnish these weapons to all the Bedouins
+in a circuit of fifteen days journey.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_442">[442]</span>Few foreign
+vessels, as I was informed, ever enter the harbour of Souakin
+except from stress of weather. The trade by sea is carried on
+principally with ships belonging to people of Souakin and Djidda,
+who are almost entirely occupied in sailing between the two coasts.
+No week passes without some vessel arriving from Djidda, or sailing
+for that port. During my stay only one ship sailed for Hodeyda, and
+another for Mokha, and nine for Djidda; the ship for Mokha was
+laden with a considerable part of the slaves who had come with us
+in the caravan from Shendy, for natives of Souakin are settled in
+most of the towns of the Yemen, where they act as agents for their
+countrymen. One ship arrived from Djidda, and a small boat from
+Loheya; there were besides four or five vessels in the harbour,
+bound for the Arabian coast. These ships are often manned by
+Bedouins, who are as expert in handling the rigging, as they are in
+tying the ropes of their camels loads; but the greater part of the
+sailors are Somaulys from the African coast lying between Abyssinia
+and Cape Guardafui, and who are the most active mariners in the Red
+Sea. The pilot is usually a man from Djidda or Yemen. The people of
+Souakin are active fishermen, and have a dozen small fishing boats
+constantly at sea. Fish is always found in the market, but very few
+Bedouins will touch it. Pearls are sometimes found in the
+neighbourhood by the fishermen. Souakin, upon the whole, may be
+considered as one of the first slave-trade markets in Eastern
+Africa; it imports annually from Shendy and Sennaar from two to
+three thousand slaves, equalling nearly in this respect Esne and
+Siout in Egypt, and Massouah in Abyssinia, where, as I afterwards
+learnt at Djidda, there is an annual transit from the interior of
+about three thousand five hundred slaves. From these four points,
+from the southern harbours of Abyssinia, and from the Somauly
+and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_443">[443]</span> Mozambik coast,
+it may be computed that Egypt and Arabia draw an annual supply of
+fifteen or twenty thousand slaves brought from the interior of
+Africa.</p>
+
+<p>The market of Souakin is held in the Geyf, in an open space
+surrounded by huts, where almost the same articles are exposed for
+sale as at Shendy. All the surrounding Bedouins take from hence
+their supplies of Dhourra and Dammour, in exchange for hides; the
+selling of Dhourra to the northern Bedouins is very advantageous to
+the Hadherebe and Hadendoa, who have an exclusive intercourse with
+Taka. At the market of El Geyf I saw for the first time after four
+months, Dhourra loaves for sale; these with butter form the only
+food of the poor classes in the town. In all small concerns, the
+currency is Dhourra, which is measured by handfuls or with the same
+sized Moud as at Shendy: for greater bargains dollars are used.
+Neither the piastre, nor the para, nor the gold coins of Turkey are
+taken: but they have old paras cut into four parts, which are paid
+for articles of little value. Sales to a large amount are paid by
+Wokye, or the ounce of gold, which has its fixed value in
+dollars.</p>
+
+<p>The manners of the people of Souakin are the same as those I
+have already described in the interior, and I have reason to
+believe that they are common to the whole of Eastern Africa,
+including Abyssinia, where the character of the inhabitants, as
+drawn by Bruce, seems little different from that of these Nubians.
+I regret that I am compelled to represent all the nations of Africa
+which I have yet seen, in so bad a light. Had I viewed them
+superficially I might have been scrupulous in giving so decided an
+opinion, but having travelled in a manner which afforded me an
+intimate acquaintance with them, I must express my conviction that
+they are all tainted more or less deeply with ill faith, avarice,
+drunkenness, and debauchery. The people of Souakin partake of these
+vices<span class="pagenum" id="Page_444">[444]</span> with their
+neighbours of the desert, and in cruelty surpass them. My not being
+ill treated by the Souakin merchants in the caravan must not be
+adduced as a proof of their kindness of disposition. The secret
+fears of the Turks, which the entrance of Mohammed Aly into the
+Hedjaz had generally inspired, together with the apprehension of
+being brought to an account, if it should be known at Souakin and
+Djidda, that an Osmanly<a id="FNanchor_161"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_161">[71]</a> had been ill-treated by them, were probably a
+powerful protection to me, although not a motive sufficient to
+induce them to shew me the smallest kindness on the route. I do not
+recollect a single instance of their condescending to assist me in
+loading my camel, or filling my water skin, of interpreting for me,
+or of rendering me any of those little services which travellers
+are in the habit of interchanging: on the contrary, they obliged
+me, on different occasions, to furnish them with provisions and
+water; and in the evening their slaves were often sent to me to ask
+for a part of my supper for their masters, or to demand permission
+for the slave to eat with mine, under pretence that he had not had
+time to cook his supper. The intimacy of the people of Souakin with
+the Nubian Bedouins, and the unsettled state of their own
+government, have been the principal causes of their degenerating
+from the character of their Arabian ancestors. They have every
+where on the coast of the Red Sea, the character of avarice and
+ingratitude, or, to use the expression of an Arab of Yembo: “Though
+you give them water from the holy well of Zemzem to drink when they
+are thirsty, yet they will suffer you to choke with thirst even
+when their own wells are full” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حَتَّي اذا سقينهم من مأ زمزم فليخّلوك تموت من الظما و لو كان
+بير هم مليان</span>); and this character is confirmed by the
+testimony of all those who have had an opportunity of observing
+them in their houses. At Souakin,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_445">[445]</span> the law of the strongest alone is
+respected, and it is impossible to carry on business without
+purchasing the protection of some powerful Hadherebe. Every day
+some bloody quarrel takes place among them. Their bodies,
+principally their backs, are covered with scars; and a man, far
+from being reproached as a murderer, prides himself in the number
+of persons he has slain in private quarrels, and the sums he has
+paid as the price of blood. Three or four years ago a slave
+belonging to one of the chiefs of the Hadherebe spread terror
+through the whole town. He was superior to every body in strength,
+as well as in courage and enterprise; and after committing the most
+horrible crimes, and murdering upwards of twenty persons, he
+quitted his master, who through fear still continued to protect
+him. He was at last killed by a youth, whose mother he had
+attempted to ravish. While I was sitting one day with the Aga, a
+poor sailor entered with a fresh sword-wound in his side, begging
+the Aga to protect him from a Hadherebe, who was attempting his
+life. The Aga advised him to make up the matter amicably, and gave
+him two measures of Dhourra to console him. Hospitality is as
+little known here as at Taka. Bouza huts and public women are as
+common as in any part of Nubia; but I do not believe that any
+Hadherebe woman dares openly to prostitute herself. The druggists
+shops in the market are kept exclusively by public women, who are
+Abyssinian slaves restored by their masters to liberty. All the
+women in El Geyf go unveiled; those who reside on the island are
+veiled, and clothed like the women of Arabia.</p>
+
+<p>There is one coffee-house on the island, where all matters of
+importance are settled among the towns-people and the Hadherebe.
+The coffee is paid for in Dhourra. The communication between the
+Geyf and the island is by rafts; a handful of Dhourra is paid to the
+man who manages the raft; but even this trifling fare the Souakin
+people are seldom willing to pay; they strip, and fastening their
+cloak,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_446">[446]</span> sandals, and
+sword upon their head, they swim across the channel, in the same
+manner as the Egyptians cross the Nile. They are the most expert
+swimmers I ever saw, and are particularly skilful in keeping the
+body, as high as the top of the shoulder, in an upright posture in
+the water, while they work their way with their lower extremities,
+as if they were walking on firm ground, and almost as
+fast.<a id="FNanchor_162"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_162">[72]</a></p>
+
+<p>The Bisharye language is generally spoken at Souakin; the
+Arabic, though understood by every one in the Geyf, is spoken there
+with a bad accent, but the inhabitants of the town speak it as
+their native language, and with the Djidda pronunciation. Among the
+neighbouring Hadendoas, who bring butter and sheep to the market of
+El Geyf, I saw many individuals entirely ignorant of Arabic.</p>
+
+<p>The people on the island have a Kadhi, a Mufti, a public school,
+and two or three persons belonging to the corps of Olemas. The
+chief and richest man amongst them had filled the office of Aga
+during the time of the Sherif; he was now at the head of an
+opposition against the actual Aga, who was of Mohammed Aly’s
+appointment, and whose official acts his opponent had sufficient
+cause to censure. Before I left Souakin the Kadhi secretly called
+me to his house, and gave me a letter, which he entreated me to
+carry to the Hedjaz, and to deliver into Mohammed Aly’s own hands;
+it contained a statement of complaints against Yemak, and the
+Hadherebe; wherein the latter were described as rebels, and as
+having proved themselves to be such by not permitting the coin of
+Mohammed Aly and the piastres of Cairo to pass current in the
+place, and by not attending the Friday’s devotions,
+when<span class="pagenum" id="Page_447">[447]</span> public prayers
+were added for the Sultan and the Pasha. The complaints against
+Yemak were, that he made the Turkish name ridiculous, that he stood
+in too much fear of the Bedouins, and that he disgraced his office
+by his unnatural propensities.<a id="FNanchor_163"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_163">[73]</a> The letter was altogether a curious
+composition; the most ridiculous titles were given in it to the
+Pasha; among others, he was styled Asad el barr wa fil el bahr
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اسد البرّ و فيل البحر</span>), the
+lion of the earth and the elephant of the sea. It was signed and
+sealed by a dozen supplicants; and although I did not deliver it
+myself in the Hedjaz, I took care that it was duly forwarded to the
+Pasha.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Souakin use very few fire-arms, and few
+individuals in the Geyf dare fire a gun. They carry the same
+weapons as the Nubians, a sword, a lance, a target, and a knife.
+About a dozen horses are kept in the town; in war, the bravest men
+mount upon dromedaries and surprise the enemy. Almost every house
+in the Geyf possesses a dromedary. The Bedouins of the Geyf are as
+indifferent about religion as those of the desert; very few of them
+would be found, upon inquiry, to know how to pray in the Mohammedan
+form; and I was told that even the fast of Ramadhan is little
+attended to. In the town the inhabitants are as strict in their
+religious duties as sea-faring people usually are.</p>
+
+<p>I calculate the whole population of Souakin at about eight
+thousand souls, of whom three thousand live upon the island, and
+the rest in the Geyf.</p>
+
+<p>The cattle of the Souakin Bedouins are extremely numerous; they
+are kept in the neighbourhood only during the months immediately
+following the rainy season, when the surrounding plains
+produce<span class="pagenum" id="Page_448">[448]</span> some
+pasture; during the rest of the year they are pastured, under the
+care of shepherds, in the encampments of the Hadendoa, in the
+mountains of Dyaab, or Langay. An active and daily intercourse is
+kept up between the town and all these neighbouring Bedouins.</p>
+
+<p>About three hours from Souakin is a Wady, in the mountain of
+Dyaab; it is watered by a rivulet, and is full of date trees, which
+are all of the male species, and produce no fruit: a few Hadendoa
+live there at present. A report is current at Souakin, that when
+that place was the residence of a Pasha, a town stood in this Wady,
+which was much frequented by the Souakin people, and where the
+Pasha himself passed a part of the hot season, in cool
+retirement.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the Hadendoa inhabitants of the Geyf cultivate, after
+the rains, a fertile plain called Tokar, situated about two days
+south of the town, and not far from the sea; it is spacious,
+fertile, surrounded by mountains, and watered by torrents; but its
+produce bears a very small proportion to the consumption of the
+town.</p>
+
+<p>About five hours north of Souakin, the chain of the Dyaab,
+already mentioned, advances considerably towards the sea; and the
+projecting part forms the northern boundary of the territories of
+the Bedouins Hadendoa; beyond it begins the tribe of Amarer, an
+independent nation, unconnected with any of the former, whose
+encampments are met with on the whole of the coast as far as the
+island called Djebel Mekowar. These Amarer are friendly to the
+Hadendoa, but upon bad terms with the Bisharein; though it is said
+that they are descended from the same progenitors.</p>
+
+<p>Upon enquiry whether the road along the coast to Massouah was
+ever followed, I was told that nobody attempts it, and that
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_449">[449]</span> only
+communication southwards is through Taka. From Souakin to Assouan
+is said to be from twenty to twenty-four days journey, but the road
+is not frequented. Last year, when the robber Naym interrupted the
+regular route between Shendy and Upper Egypt, some enterprising
+Souakin merchants planned a journey to Egypt, through the country
+of the Bisharein, expecting to get a good price for their camels,
+slaves, and various articles of Indian produce. Although at war
+with the Bisharein, they procured a couple of guides of that
+nation, to ensure their safety, and to point out the roads, and
+they settled at the same time the passage duties that were to be
+paid to the Bisharye chiefs. In Arabia traders travel safely in
+this manner through the territories of hostile tribes, who dare not
+molest them, when accompanied by some of their own people. But the
+Africans are less scrupulous: at about half-way, the whole of the
+Souakin caravan was completely destroyed, and not a single
+individual escaped. It is not likely, therefore, that this route
+will ever be again attempted. The Hadherebe have no intercourse
+whatever at present with those Bisharye tribes who people the
+desert to the east of the Amarer and Hadendoa, and northward of the
+former as high as the territories of the Ababde. The Amarer and
+Hadendoa, although at war with the Bisharein, do not cherish the
+same deadly hatred towards them as towards the Hadherebe, and some
+little traffic is carried on between them. The Amarer buy at
+Souakin their Dhourra, Dammour, and tobacco, which they barter with
+the Bisharein for cattle and hides. The principal settlement of the
+latter appears to be Olba (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عُلبَه</span>), a high mountain close to the sea, with a small
+harbour, at about ten or twelve days from Souakin, and about
+fifteen days from Daraou in Upper Egypt. Their principal chiefs
+encamp in the valleys of this mountain, which is said to be
+extremely rich in pasturage, and to be always inhabited
+by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_450">[450]</span> several powerful
+tribes. Its name is well known in Upper Egypt, and the Bedouins
+Ababde often repair thither with Dhourra, and cotton stuffs of
+Egyptian manufacture. It is also visited by the chiefs of the
+Ababde, for the purpose of collecting a certain tribute paid to
+them by these mountaineers for the permission of pasturing their
+cattle in the rainy season in that part of the northern Nubian
+mountains which the Ababde claim as their own patrimony; but as the
+two tribes are often at war, the tribute is not regularly paid.</p>
+
+<p>I was told repeatedly, both in Upper Egypt and at Souakin, that
+in the rocks near the shore in the vicinity of Djebel Olba there
+are excavated habitations, which appear to have been the work of
+the <em>infidels</em>. According to the testimony of several
+sea-faring people, Olba is the only tolerable harbour on the
+African coast, between Kosseir and Souakin. The Bisharein have a
+regular market there, which is supplied from Upper Egypt, Berber,
+and indirectly from Souakin. Sometimes, but very rarely, small
+boats arrive there from Arabia for hides and butter; but masters of
+vessels are afraid of the treachery of the Bisharein, and are
+seldom willing to encounter this hazard, in addition to that of the
+voyage, although it affords the chance of great profits. It is said
+that camels are very numerous there, and that the Bisharein live
+almost entirely on their milk and flesh. They cultivate no part of
+their valleys, though rivulets are said to be met with in several
+of them; Dhourra is in consequence dear, being all carried to them
+from a great distance; the quantity which costs two dollars in
+Upper Egypt will purchase a fine camel at Olba. It would be highly
+gratifying to visit this harbour, which I suspect has remained
+unknown to all modern travellers and navigators, and which, if
+examined, might perhaps at once settle the disputed points in the
+geography of this coast.<a id="FNanchor_164"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_164">[74]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_451">[451]</span>When we arrived,
+on the morning of the 26th of June, in the neighbourhood of the
+Geyf, I expected that we should immediately enter the place; but
+this was not the established custom. The Souakin merchants repaired
+to their homes, while the party of foreign traders alighted at
+about twenty minutes walk from the town, near the wells which
+supply it with water; and where we found a great number of Negroe
+Hadjis, who had been waiting several weeks for a conveyance to
+Djidda. As we were to remain here till our affairs should be
+settled with the chief of Souakin, who levies duties on all the
+caravans, every one formed a small tent by means of a few poles,
+over which we tied mats. The brother of the chief paid us a visit
+in the afternoon; and the next day the Emir himself came. We paid
+him half a dollar for each slave, which is the regular imposition.
+As the black merchants had some loads with them for which no
+regular duty is fixed, and were suspected also to have gold in
+their sacks, it was amicably agreed that the Emir, who was an old
+acquaintance of theirs, should take two of their camels. The chief
+of the caravan takes besides, from every merchant who is not a
+Hadherebe, one dollar. With respect to myself, my camel had become
+so famous in the caravan for his strength and agility, that the
+Emir wished to make it his own; he told me that all camels brought
+from Soudan by foreign traders belonged to him by right, and
+therefore insisted upon taking mine. As I had calculated upon
+selling it here to defray my passage to Djidda, and felt confident
+that no such law existed, I refused to comply with the chief’s
+demand and insisted upon having our differences referred to the
+Turkish custom-house officer. I was now in a place where I thought
+I might turn to account the Firmaan I had received from Ibrahim
+Pasha, as well as an old one given me by his father Mohammed Aly,
+when I left Cairo eighteen months ago, and before the latter had
+gone to the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_452">[452]</span> Hedjaz.
+Yet as I was not quite sure of the dispositions of these Bedouins
+and their obedience to the Pasha’s authority, I said nothing of the
+Firmaans, but demanded to be carried before the Aga, to whose
+commands I declared I should immediately comply, if he ordered me
+to deliver up the camel. The Emir from the first day of our arrival
+had interdicted me from passing over to the island; he now thought
+he might concert his measures with the Aga himself to strip such an
+unprotected person as I appeared to be: he acquainted the Aga with
+my arrival, and soon after carried me himself to the Aga’s house on
+the island. When we entered, the Aga was sitting listening to some
+sailors; I made him a low bow, when he addressed me in the Turkish
+language in such phrases as would be used in speaking to servants.
+Finding that I did not answer him in the same idiom, he exclaimed
+in Arabic, “Look at that scoundrel! he comes from his brethren the
+Mamelouks at Dóngola, and pretends not to know any thing of
+Turkish.” It was true indeed, that in my face and beard I resembled
+more a Mamelouk than any other eastern native; but every person in
+the caravan knew that I had come from Egypt to Shendy, and that I
+did not belong to the Mamelouks. Dóngola being only from ten to
+sixteen days distant from Souakin some apprehensions had long been
+entertained lest the Mamelouks should endeavour to effect their
+retreat to this harbour, and attempt to join the Wahabi in Arabia
+against their common enemy, Mohammed Aly Pasha. Hassan Djouhar
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حسن جوهر كاشف</span>), one of their
+Kashefs, had passed through Souakin in his way to Mekka, in 1812,
+while Sherif Ghalib was master of Djidda, and it was well known
+that he had had several conferences with Saoud, the Wahabi chief.
+The Aga therefore thought, by pretending to consider me either as a
+Mamelouk spy, or refugee, though he must have been convinced that I
+was neither, and by apprehending me as such, he<span class="pagenum" id="Page_453">[453]</span> might seize my property with
+impunity, and also merit the thanks of his superiors at Djidda, for
+his vigilance. I coolly told him that I had come to him for the
+purpose of knowing from his own mouth, whether the Emir was
+entitled to my camel. “Not only thy camel,” he replied, “but the
+whole of thy baggage must be taken and searched. We shall render a
+good account of them to the Pasha, depend upon it; for you shall
+not impose upon us, you rascal, and you may be thankful if we do
+not cut off your head.”<a id="FNanchor_165"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_165">[75]</a> I protested that I was nothing but an
+unfortunate merchant, and begged that he would not add to the
+sufferings I had already experienced. It was my wish, for obvious
+reasons, to pacify him, if possible, without shewing my Firmaans,
+but Yemak soon obliged me to give up this idea; he began cursing
+and swearing in Turkish, and then calling an old cripple, to whom
+he had given the title of Waly, or police-officer, he ordered him
+to tie my hands, to put me in prison, and to bring my slave and
+baggage into his presence. I now thought it high time to produce my
+Firmaans, which I drew from a secret pocket in my Thabout; one of
+them was written in Turkish, upon a piece of paper two feet and a
+half in length, and one foot in breadth, and was sealed with the
+great seal of Mohammed Aly; the other, a smaller one, was written
+in Arabic, and bore the seal of Ibrahim Pasha, his son, in which
+Ibrahim termed me “our man, Ibrahim, the Syrian” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">رجلنا ابرهيم الشامي</span>, Radjilna Ibrahim
+es-Shamy.)</p>
+
+<p>When Yemak saw the Firmaans unfolded, he became completely
+stupified and the persons present looked at me with amazement. The
+Aga could read the Arabic only, but he kissed them both, put them
+to his forehead, and then protested to me, in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_454">[454]</span> most submissive terms, that it
+was the good of the public service alone, that had led him to treat
+me as he had done, and for which he begged me a thousand pardons.
+Nothing more was said about the Emir’s right to my camel, and he
+declared that I should pay no duty for my slave, though he was
+entitled to it. He very naturally asked me the cause of my
+appearance; for by this time my dress, which had not been very
+splendid when I set out on my journey, was literally in rags. I
+replied that Mohammed Aly Pasha had sent me as a spy upon the
+Mamelouks, and to enquire into the state of the Negroe countries,
+and that I had assumed the garb of a beggar, in order to pass
+unmolested. Yemak now began to consider me a great personage, and
+the natural consequence was, that he became afraid of me, and of
+the reports I might hereafter make to the Pasha concerning his
+conduct and his government in Souakin. His behaviour became most
+servile; and he offered me a slave girl, and a new dress of his
+own, as a present, both of which I refused. During my stay at
+Souakin, I repaired daily to his house to partake of a good dinner,
+of which I stood in great need, and to indulge myself in smoaking
+Yemak’s Persian pipe. The people of the town laughed at seeing this
+man’s pride humbled by the attentions he thought it incumbent on
+him to shew to a beggar like me. My object was to find protection
+in his company, to recruit my strength by his good fare, and to
+save expense, for by this time I had only two dollars in my
+purse.</p>
+
+<p>Among the persons whom I frequently met at Yemak’s table was a
+Sherif, who during the reign of the Sherif Ghalib had been his
+officer of customs and Aga at Massouah, in which he had at first
+been confirmed by Mohammed Aly Pasha; but was soon after dismissed
+on account of several fraudulent transactions, and had taken refuge
+at Souakin. This man had known Mr. Salt during<span class="pagenum" id="Page_455">[455]</span> his second visit to Abyssinia, and he
+told me that his master Ghalib had given him strict orders to
+prevent, by every means in his power, any Franks, and English
+especially, from entering Abyssinia. As he had no knowledge who I
+really was, I had not the smallest reason for doubting what he
+said. Lord Valentia’s short stay at Souakin was remembered, and
+often spoken of as a singular event.</p>
+
+<p>I continued during the whole of my stay here to live with the
+Black merchants outside the Geyf, notwithstanding the pressing
+invitations of the Aga to take up my abode in his house. I assisted
+them in smuggling several of their slaves into the town, a service
+which they repaid by ordering their slaves to prepare some dried
+meat for my voyage across the Red Sea. We lived surrounded by
+several hundred Tekaýrne, who were waiting for a passage, and who
+in the mean while earned their livelihood partly by acting as
+porters (for the Souakin people are too proud to act as such), and
+partly in making earthen pots for the kitchens of the town. I sold
+my camel for four dollars only, for the Shikh of the Hadherebe
+having declared that he wished to buy him, no other purchaser
+ventured to offer, and he was thus enabled to fix his own price.
+Worn down as it was with fatigue, it was still worth double that
+sum, for camels are of much the same value here, as on the Nile
+countries of Soudan. My camel had sometimes carried not only my
+baggage and water, but also myself and slave, at times when we were
+both over-fatigued. In general I permitted the boy to ride four or
+five hours in the early part of the day, and then succeeded him
+myself for the remainder. The Souakin merchants were astonished at
+my condescension, in which, I must confess, that although humanity
+had some share, self-interest had still more; for I knew that if
+the slave had been exhausted by fatigue, I should probably have
+soon shared his fate. During<span class="pagenum" id="Page_456">[456]</span> my stay at Souakin the hottest and most
+violent Simoum occurred that I ever remember to have experienced.
+The whole atmosphere appeared to be in a blaze, and we escaped with
+some difficulty from being suffocated by the clouds of sand that
+were blown about in every direction.</p>
+
+<p>A small ship, one of those called Say in the Red Sea, had begun
+to load, and I informed the Aga of my intention to take my passage
+on board of it. At any other time, and under other circumstances, I
+should probably have gone from hence to Mokha; for previous to my
+leaving Cairo, Colonel Missett, his Britannic Majesty’s Resident in
+Egypt, among numberless kindnesses towards me, had done me the
+favour to write to the East India Company’s agent at Mokha,
+apprising him that a traveller of my description might perhaps
+arrive there from the opposite coast, and desiring him to furnish
+me with money for my future travelling expenses. It had been for
+some time a favourite project with me to visit the interior of the
+Yemen mountains, where the origin of most of the Bedouin tribes of
+Arabia is to be found, and where their ancient manners are said to
+subsist in all their original purity. In departing therefore from
+Upper Egypt I had intended to proceed from Massouah or Souakin,
+whichever of the two places I should reach, to Mokha, and from
+thence to Sana, the capital of the Yemen, where I might hope to
+join the Yemen pilgrims in their annual route over the mountains to
+Mekka. The performance of this journey would have been of
+considerable advantage to Arabian geography, and it might, perhaps,
+have led to interesting facts respecting Arabian history. But the
+information I collected at Souakin respecting the war in the Hedjaz
+soon made me abandon this project; the head quarters of Mohammed
+Aly were then at Tayf, and his advanced corps was several days
+journey to the south of that place, in the very mountains where I
+should have passed, and where the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_457">[457]</span> greatest body of the Wahabi forces was
+collected. There was not the smallest chance of my passing through
+these fanatics, who would have certainly taken me for a Turkish
+spy, and sacrificed me to their vengeance.</p>
+
+<p class="space-below15">The Aga ordered the master of the ship to
+give me a free passage, and to put on board some provisions for me,
+consisting of dates and sugar, the best articles of his own
+store-room. We embarked in the evening of the 6th of July. When I
+saw the great number of people assembled on board, I repented
+having taken my passage in this ship; but I soon understood that
+from this time till the month of the Hadj (November) every vessel
+that sailed from Souakin would be equally crowded with passengers.
+My old companions the Black merchants were too numerous including
+their slaves, to find room in this vessel, they therefore
+determined to wait till another opportunity; they arrived at Djidda
+about three weeks after me. Our ship, or rather boat, for it was
+not more than between thirty and forty feet long, and nine feet
+broad in the widest part, had only one sail, and was quite open,
+without either deck or awning. It had taken in Dhourra as ballast;
+the baskets<a id="FNanchor_166"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_166">[76]</a> were covered with several layers of mats and
+hides, upon which one hundred and four persons, including the crew,
+were to be accommodated; of these fifty were Tekaýrne men and
+women, and fifty were slaves, belonging either to Black or to
+Souakin merchants, who were on board. During the night, about
+fifteen persons were sent on shore, to whom the Reis returned their
+fare, which they had paid in advance, but there were still
+eighty-nine persons in the ship when we sailed the next morning.
+The avidity of the masters in thus overloading their vessels often
+causes their ruin; about six months ago, two ships on their way
+from Djidda<span class="pagenum" id="Page_458">[458]</span> to
+Souakin, with a number of Negroe pilgrims on board, were wrecked on
+the coast at a short distance to the north of Souakin; a few lives
+only were saved, and the cargoes were entirely lost. No year passes
+without accidents of this sort happening; but the Arab sailor
+says—“Allah is great!”—and follows the practice of his
+predecessors.</p>
+
+<h3>PASSAGE FROM SOUAKIN TO DJIDDA.</h3>
+
+<p><em>July 7th.</em>—We remained in port the whole of the morning,
+waiting for a supply of water. The Tekaýrne and their slaves pay
+one dollar a head for their passage; each of them has his
+water-skin suspended over the side of the vessel. Provisions of
+water for the master and crew, and for the Souakin merchants, for
+three days, are kept in a few large jars standing on the prow. The
+sailors and Souakin people dealt heavy blows among the blacks, who
+were fighting with each other for room in the vessel. We sailed in
+the evening, and anchored after midnight, at the mouth of the bay
+of Souakin, where a small ruined bastion or watch tower stands.
+Here the pilot who had brought us out of the channel left us, to
+return by land to El Geyf.</p>
+
+<p><em>July 8th.</em> We sailed after sun-rise, with a good wind;
+the course was northward along the coast, at the distance of four
+or five miles, amongst rocks and coral-reefs. At three o’clock P.
+M. we entered a very narrow creek, of dangerous access, called
+Dagoratag; the breadth, at the entrance, was hardly sufficient to
+allow a ship of any size to veer round, but the depth of water was
+considerable, except close in-shore. The beach is sandy and
+gravelly, with some trees and shrubs growing upon it. The Bedouin
+inhabitants, who are of the tribe of Amarer, soon ran down to
+demand their harbour dues, which consist of about one dollar’s
+worth of Dhourra, and must be paid by all ships touching at
+this<span class="pagenum" id="Page_459">[459]</span> harbour. They
+sold us at the same time, some milk. All these anchorages are
+called by the Arabs, Merasy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مراسي</span>).</p>
+
+<p><em>July 9th.</em> We sailed after sunrise; it is the practice
+in all parts of the Red Sea to sail at this hour, and to anchor in
+a port in the afternoon; the mariners never depart from this custom
+till they are obliged to stand over to the opposite coast. The
+ignorance of the Arabians in navigation obliges them to proceed
+with great caution in this dangerous sea. Conscious of their want
+of skill, and of the insufficiency of their vessels, they avoid
+encountering an open sea or an adverse wind. The smaller ships have
+neither logs nor compasses on board, or if they have, never make
+much use of them. Our captain’s plan was to proceed along shore as
+far as Djebel Mekouar. This is the common route of the Souakin
+vessels during the prevalence of the northerly breezes, as the wind
+from thence is usually fair for stretching across to Djidda. Ships
+bound from Souakin to Mokha generally proceed southward along the
+African coast, anchoring in some port every evening, till they
+reach Massouah, from whence they cross over to the Arabian shore.
+In the northern part of the Red Sea, the vessels bound from Kosseir
+to Djidda cross over to the nearest point of the opposite coast,
+and then proceed along shore to Djidda. On the contrary, those from
+Djidda to Kosseir follow the coast as high as the latitude of
+Moyla, or Ras Mohammed, and cross from thence, by the help of the
+northerly winds. These coasting voyages are still more necessary to
+the Souakin slave vessels, because they are generally so full of
+passengers and slaves as to be obliged to take in a daily supply of
+water.</p>
+
+<p>We had a fair westerly wind this morning. The Blacks were all
+sick, no person had room sufficient to stretch out his limbs, and
+we were confined the whole day in the same position, exposed to the
+heat of the sun; the sailors were obliged to walk over
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_460">[460]</span> passengers to
+do their work, and the whole vessel was a scene of confusion and
+quarrelling. In the course of the morning we passed the tomb of a
+Shikh named Berghout (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شيخ
+برغوت</span>), with a cupola over it, built upon the beach by
+Souakin sailors, who revere him as the protector of mariners. We
+saw a great number of dolphins, of the same size and shape as those
+seen on the coast of Egypt, near the mouths of the Nile; the
+sailors would not allow me to throw a lance at them; to wound one
+of them they think will be attended with disaster to the voyage.
+Soon after mid-day we anchored in the bay of Gayayá; we had sailed
+almost the whole morning among rocks just appearing above water. In
+sailing into the bay we ran ashore, an accident which often
+happens; the sailors are in the habit of entering these creeks in
+full sail; when at a certain distance from the beach, they suddenly
+furl the sail, and let the vessel run up to the anchorage; but they
+often mistake the distance, and as they have no anchor in these
+small vessels, she is aground before she can veer round. The moment
+the sail is lowered three or four men jump overboard, with ropes
+fastened to grappling-irons, which they make fast to some coral
+rock or tree on shore. The passengers go on shore every evening,
+and often pass the night there. As we had no boat, and the vessel
+could not always be brought close in shore, we were sometimes
+obliged to wade or swim to the beach.<a id="FNanchor_167"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_167">[77]</a> The Negroes encamped every afternoon in
+the same manner as they had done when crossing the desert. This
+evening I observed the whole beach to be covered with shells, and
+in the water among the coral rocks were numberless fishes of
+various shapes and colours. I was shewn the shell of the Sorombak,
+the fish of which is eaten by the Arabs all along the coasts of the
+Red Sea, and particularly in this part. Among the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_461">[461]</span> calcined shells, I saw those
+of the lobster. A party of Amarer Bedouins came to the beach to
+sell water, sheep (three fat sheep for a dollar’s worth of
+Dhourra), shell-fish, boiled fish, and some hares,<a id="FNanchor_168"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_168">[78]</a> and to receive the usual presents from
+the master of the vessel. These people were entirely ignorant of
+the Arabic language, and although we were in much greater numbers
+than themselves, they appeared to think very lightly of us, and
+behaved with little ceremony or civility. The bay of Gayayá is one
+of the best anchorages on this coast; even large ships might find
+shelter here in stress of weather.</p>
+
+<p><em>July 10th.</em> A good wind carried us before mid-day to the
+bay of Deroura, where we anchored, knowing that there is a copious
+well in the neighbourhood. We passed yesterday, as well as to-day,
+several other bays frequented by country ships. Every pilot
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">رُبّان</span> Robban) knows their
+situation, but long practice is wanted not to mistake the entrance,
+which is always through a labyrinth of shoals. The Tekaýrne went
+and filled their water-skins at the well, and after their return
+the captain obliged them to go a second time, to bring a sufficient
+quantity for the ship’s company. These poor people were, on all
+occasions, extremely ill-treated, although not one of them owed his
+passage to the captain’s charity; the Souakin people and sailors
+cursed and beat them repeatedly in the course of the day, and
+obliged them to do the ship’s work, while they themselves sat at
+their ease smoaking their pipes: the water and provisions of the
+poor pilgrims were constantly pilfered by the crew, and they were
+crowded into as narrow a space as three persons would be in the
+seat of a carriage intended to carry but two. The ship’s company
+and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_462">[462]</span> the merchants
+had every morning and evening fresh Dhourra bread, baked in a small
+oven on the prow, while the Negroes, who were never allowed to make
+use of the oven, fasted the whole day, till they could cook their
+supper on shore. If any of them attempted to take out a leaf of his
+papers, or to read or write his prayers, some Souakiny was sure to
+throw water over him, and spoil his book. At Souakin the Tekaýrne,
+before they embark, are exposed to another inconvenience: instances
+having been known of black traders dressing their slaves like
+pilgrims in order to elude the duties levied upon them, the Aga has
+made it a pretext for exacting duties upon free-born pilgrims, by
+insisting that they are slaves in disguise, and thus taking two
+dollars from each, though they may be able to prove the contrary.
+For three or four months previous to the time of the Hadj Souakin
+is always full of Tekaýrne, and they would be much more numerous
+were it not for the ill treatment they meet with from the people of
+Souakin, and the dangers of the passage across the Red Sea; the
+dread of which, more than of the journey to the coast, discourages
+great numbers from coming.</p>
+
+<p><em>July 11th.</em> The wind was adverse, and we found ourselves
+greatly entangled among rocks. We passed a ruined castle, or large
+tower, situated two miles in-land. The Souakin people told me that
+it had been built by an ancient Pasha of Souakin, near a well, and
+that it was a halting-place on the road, once frequented, between
+Kosseir and Souakin. The former existence of such a route through
+the mountains of Nubia had already been mentioned to me by the
+people of Upper Egypt, and the Pasha of Souakin, it was said,
+always travelled by this route from Egypt to his government. The
+Souakin people farther informed me, that at every halting place a
+similar tower was found; but this they knew only by report, none of
+them having ever travelled the road.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_463">[463]</span>In the mountains
+to the eastward of Daraou in Upper Egypt, three journeys from that
+village towards the Red Sea, is a plain with wells of sweet water,
+which is called Shikh Shadely (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شيخ
+شادلي</span>) from the tomb of a holy man, who is said to have died
+there, on the road from Kosseir to Souakin; which passes by the
+wells. The tomb is held in great veneration by the Egyptians; one
+of the Mamelouk Begs built a cupola over it, and people frequently
+make vows to visit the Shikh’s tomb, and there sacrifice a sheep in
+his honour. The surrounding valleys are full of trees; and
+according to the statements of my informants there are some remains
+of buildings, and caverns cut in the rocks. The mountain has long
+had the reputation of containing emeralds, and most of the Arabian
+geographers confirm the opinion by their writings. Mohammed Aly
+Pasha having been informed of the tradition, sent in 1812 a party
+of soldiers to Shikh Shadely, accompanied by a Greek jeweller of
+Cairo, who was supposed to understand something of precious stones.
+They carried several hundred peasants with them, and after digging
+in the rocky ground, and in the plain near the tomb, in a place
+were a Mamelouk Beg had been reported to have found a stone of
+inestimable value, they happened, by a singular accident, to dig up
+a piece of green opaque glass, about eight cubic inches in size,
+with something of an emerald hue; this was immediately declared to
+be the true stone, and carried as such in triumph to Cairo. When
+the jeweller passed through Esne, I had just arrived there, and saw
+the supposed treasure at the governor’s house; but I took care not
+to damp the joy of the officer of the detachment, who no doubt
+considered that his fortune was made. I heard afterwards that the
+news of the lucky discovery reached Cairo before the arrival of the
+treasure; that the discoverers received a handsome present from the
+Pasha; and that it was not till long afterwards that some
+connoisseur had the courage<span class="pagenum" id="Page_464">[464]</span> to assure his highness that the supposed
+emerald was nothing but a piece of glass. It had been dug out of a
+thick bed of gypsum, between ancient walls; and I have little doubt
+that a glass manufactory was anciently established on the spot. The
+surrounding mountains are very well wooded, and the Ababde Arabs
+burn there a large quantity of charcoal from the acacia trees,
+which they carry to the Nile, from whence it is shipped by the
+merchants to Cairo. The herbs Shieh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شيح</span>), and Rothe (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">روثه</span>), from which the best Kelhy or soda is made are
+common in the same mountain, and sand is found in plenty in the
+valleys; this, therefore, was a most convenient spot to establish a
+manufactory of glass. No doubt can be entertained that the ancient
+Egyptians made use of glass vessels; fragments of which, of the
+most varied shapes and colours, are found in the ruins of all their
+towns. It is even evident that they must have attained to
+considerable skill in this art, and that they had attempted to
+imitate precious stones in glass; for during my stay at Esne,
+several small pieces of glass were dug up amongst the ruins of
+Edfou (Apollinopolis Magna), which were perfect imitations of the
+amethyst and topaz.</p>
+
+<p>Before mid-day we entered the bay of Fedja (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فجع</span>)<a id="FNanchor_169"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_169">[79]</a>; its entrance is easy, and the anchorage
+spacious. The ship’s yard was injured this morning through the
+unskilfulness of the sailors in tacking; nothing, indeed, can be
+more awkward than the manner in which these country ships are
+navigated; none of the crew has any particular duty assigned to
+him, and every manœuvre creates general confusion. The captain has
+no real command over his men, who generally do only what they like,
+without attending either to his or the pilot’s orders; but as they
+are great cowards, the consequences of their ignorance prove less
+frequently fatal to the vessel than might<span class="pagenum" id="Page_465">[465]</span> be supposed. Whenever a fresh breeze
+springs up, the Arabian sailor instantly furls his sails, and runs
+his vessel ashore, where he remains till it abates; if the ship
+reaches the neighbourhood of a bay before noon, and doubts are
+entertained from the state of the wind, of the possibility of
+reaching the next bay before sun-set, the first is at once entered,
+and the whole afternoon is passed in idleness; for after the ship
+is made fast, there they remain, however favourable the wind may
+prove.</p>
+
+<p>El Fedja is a noted anchorage on this coast. We soon opened a
+market with some Bedouins, who brought us excellent water. The
+mountains continue all along the coast at about four or five miles
+distant from the shore, which rises gradually to their base. The
+beach is sandy, with layers of chalk, formed by calcined
+conchylias; great numbers of shells are everywhere found, and it
+appeared to me that each species was generally confined to a
+particular spot on the coast. There were however various sorts in
+the bay of El Fedja. I particularly noticed the Sorombak, and the
+small white shell called at Cairo Woda (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وَدَع</span>), with which the Gipsey women tell fortunes, by
+tossing them up, as they pronounce the person’s name, and by
+observing the position in which they fall on the ground.</p>
+
+<p><em>July 12th.</em> We had a good wind, but want of water
+obliged us to run into the bay of Arakyá long before noon. It was
+our practice not to sail in the morning till the sun was
+sufficiently high to render shallow water and reefs visible at a
+good distance, for in most of these intricate channels the pilot’s
+eye is his only guide. Late this evening, the Arabs brought a large
+supply of water upon camels and asses, which they had drawn from a
+reservoir of rain-water three or four hours distant in the
+mountains. The bay is composed entirely of calcined shells, and
+affords a safe anchorage for large ships. I fought here a hard
+battle with some of the Souakin<span class="pagenum" id="Page_466">[466]</span> merchants, who continued to ill treat, by
+every means in their power, the poor Negroes, and would listen to
+none of my representations in their behalf. They had conceived a
+contemptible opinion of myself, notwithstanding the respect they
+saw paid to me at Souakin, because I had not got a new dress, and
+because they thought that I had made myself too familiar with the
+Black wretches, as they termed them. I was seconded in my
+endeavours for the benefit of the Tekaýrne by a Greek Christian,
+who had come with us from Souakin, and who afforded me much
+entertainment during the voyage. His name was Stafa, a native of
+Negropont, and he was a sailor by profession. He had visited
+England some years ago on board a brig of war sent there by
+Mohammed Aly Pasha, to solicit permission to sail to the Red Sea by
+the way of the Cape of Good Hope. Having remained in England a
+whole year, he had learned a little English; after his return the
+Pasha had given him the command of a Dow in the Red Sea. He had
+been to Souakin to recover a debt of some hundred dollars, from a
+Souakiny, and was now returning to Djidda. Like all the other
+persons on board, he took me for a Syrian, and conversed with me in
+broken Arabic. I was exceedingly amused with the account of his
+travels in Europe, and the palpable falsehoods and absurdities
+which he uttered respecting what he had seen in England, and the
+manners of the inhabitants. Comparatively speaking, I had no reason
+to complain of my treatment on board the vessel; the Reis, an
+inhabitant of Djidda, was the more willing to accommodate me, as I
+had given him a dollar as a present, notwithstanding my being a
+free passenger: the merchants paid two dollars each.</p>
+
+<p><em>July 13th.</em>—We had a tolerable wind, and by the help of
+the oars, which we often had recourse to, we reached at two o’clock
+A. M. the bay of Tahde. As there was a settlement of Amarer close
+to the beach, and as these Bedouins are not in much
+reputation<span class="pagenum" id="Page_467">[467]</span> for good
+faith, we remained at a considerable distance from the shore. Some
+of the sailors swam to the beach to settle with the chief the
+amount of duty to be paid; and the Greek captain and I were obliged
+to pay each half a measure of Dhourra above the stipulated sum,
+under the pretence that we were in the service of the Pasha, and
+not Arabs, like the others. We then landed upon a small raft towed
+alongside the vessel from the shore, and were well treated, or at
+least were unmolested by the Bedouins who assembled around us. They
+are of the tribe of Coubad, a principal branch of the Amarer, and
+they live here in tents made of black goats hair, like those of the
+Arabian Arabs. There were about thirty or forty tents. That of the
+Shikh was pitched close by the side of the tomb of his grandfather,
+a man who had been much respected among his tribe, and to whom a
+sepulchre of stone had been erected. In the evening immense herds
+of camels, sheep, and goats, came running down to the beach to
+drink at about half a dozen springs among some trees close to the
+sea. The water of all these springs, except one, is brackish. The
+sheep have short bad wool; but the hair of the goats is long. In
+the mountains are reservoirs of rain water; but the Bedouins seem
+to be accustomed to the water of the springs, and do not take the
+trouble of bringing sweet water from such a distance. Not far from
+the wells the beach becomes very rocky, is covered with loose
+stones of great size, and rises rapidly towards the mountains; as
+far as I could observe, these rocks are entirely of gray granite.
+The whole of the morning was spent in bargaining for milk; after
+the camels had drank water, their owners milked them; and the milk
+was placed before the camels in large vessels made of reeds,
+closely interwoven, exactly like those made by the Barábera above
+Assouan. We had all brought with us a quantity of Dhourra and
+tobacco, which are the best medium of traffic on this coast. We put
+down near each<span class="pagenum" id="Page_468">[468]</span>
+vessel as much of the one or the other, as we thought fit to give;
+but until we made up the exact quantity which the Bedouin was
+determined to have, he continued to order us very coolly to “go
+away” (Kak); they would not admit of any sort of bargaining, but
+repeated the word Kak.<a id="FNanchor_170"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_170">[80]</a> Several of the Souakin merchants and sailors
+found here some female friends of old acquaintance, and although
+the captain had given orders that every body should return on board
+after sun-set, they remained on shore, and we heard their
+boisterous songs the whole night. The women here went unveiled, and
+behaved with great freedom. The dress of the men is the usual
+Dammour shirt; they carry lances, and targets, and a few have
+swords; their principal enjoyment seems to be, as in other parts of
+Nubia, to get drunk with Bouza. The great numbers of their cattle
+expose them sometimes to the inroads of foreign enemies. The people
+of Yembo occasionally come here in small ships, well armed with
+firelocks, and plunder the whole neighbourhood of the cattle,
+alleging as an excuse, that the Amarer formerly killed several of
+their countrymen, who had been shipwrecked on this coast.</p>
+
+<p><em>July 14th.</em>—As we stood out of the bay a ship from
+Djidda was entering: vessels bound from that port to Souakin
+usually cross over here, and then coast along southward to their
+destination. Unless the wind is particularly favourable, they
+rarely cross the sea direct to Souakin. Had the wind been
+favourable for us, we should have stood across from this bay; but
+it was southerly, and we therefore steered for a small island, a
+few miles to the north of Tebade, where we entered a fine bay, with
+the intention of waiting<span class="pagenum" id="Page_469">[469]</span> there for a northerly wind. This island
+bears the name of Djebel Mekouar; Djebel, because it consists
+almost entirely of a single low rocky mountain; and Mekouar, from
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كورّ</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">يكورّ</span>, which in the dialect of the Yemen sailors
+means to cross over, or to start in order to cross
+over.<a id="FNanchor_171"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_171">[81]</a> The passage across the
+sea is usually begun at this island, as well from its being in a
+more northern latitude than Djidda, and thus affording the full
+advantage of the northerly winds, as from the passage across being
+quite free from hidden shoals or reefs, which otherwise might
+render the navigation dangerous during the night. It requires
+generally two days and one night to perform the passage.</p>
+
+<p>We dispersed among the low trees and shrubs with which the
+shores of the island are thickly lined, and some of which even grow
+in the water; in foliage the trees resemble the aloe; the wood is
+very brittle. The island, as far as I could judge, is about eight
+miles in circumference; on its north-east side, and close to it, is
+a much smaller one. I wished to visit the interior of the island;
+but we were kept ready to sail at a moment’s notice, in case the
+wind should come round to the northward. The island is of secondary
+formation, with chalk, and entirely barren, except the beach, where
+the trees grow. On its western side is another anchorage, but less
+spacious than that on the south side, in which our vessel moored.
+It is inhabited by about twenty Bisharye families, who are complete
+ichthyophagi: they have very few sheep and goats, the mountain
+scarcely affording any pasture. On the north side of the island are
+some wells, but the water is so brackish that even<span class="pagenum" id="Page_470">[470]</span> the inhabitants cannot drink
+it. During the winter they find rain water among the rocks; in the
+summer they cross over weekly upon the rafts used by them in
+fishing, to the continent, which is only one or two miles distant,
+and where they obtain a supply from some wells to the north of
+Tebade. They appear to live almost entirely upon fish, shell-fish,
+and eggs; they obtain a little milk from their sheep, which are not
+more than thirty in number. They fish with nets and hooks, which
+they buy from the Souakin ships. Of the thick skin of some large
+fish, unknown to me, they make targets of a round and square form,
+about a foot and a half in diameter, and sufficiently strong to
+resist a spear-thrust. In the mountains they collect at this season
+vast numbers of the eggs of a species of sea-gull, which is very
+common here. About a dozen men and women came to the bay, with some
+sheep and a little milk and eggs for sale. The boiled yolks of the
+eggs were piled up on their targets, and carried on their heads,
+and I was told that they preserve them in this state for many
+weeks. Both the men and women had a very emaciated appearance; none
+of them spoke Arabic. I wished to barter for some milk, but the
+women had conceived such horror on seeing me, that they absolutely
+refused to have any dealings whatever with me. They all seemed
+extremely desirous of Dhourra, which they have no other means of
+obtaining than from ships touching here; but their sheep were still
+more valuable to them, for they would not part with any of them,
+though we offered a good price.</p>
+
+<p>From the adjacent point of the main land begin the territories
+of the Bedouins Bisharein, which extend northwards eight days
+journey to the limits of the dominions of the Bedouins Ababde. The
+inhabitants of Mekouar are exposed to the attacks of the Amarer
+from Tebade, when the two tribes are at war; they then usually
+retire to the main land; their principal object in coming here
+seems<span class="pagenum" id="Page_471">[471]</span> to be to
+barter with the ships which touch at the island in their passage to
+or from Djidda and Souakin. I was told that they consider the
+island as their own property, and that no other Bisharein are
+permitted to settle on it. It has been supposed to be the
+<em>Emerald Island</em>; but the Arabian sailors give that name to
+some islands further northward, between this and Kosseir.</p>
+
+<p>I was informed here, that one day’s sail farther north, or from
+twenty to twenty-five miles, which is the usual rate of these
+vessels, there is a large bay extending considerably inland, called
+Mersa Dóngola (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مرسي دنقله</span>),
+or the harbour of Dóngola, with an island at its entrance: it is
+well known for its rich pearl fishery. The captain of our boat,
+Seid Mustafa ed-Djedáwy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سيد مصطفي
+الجداوي</span>), had once been there, and brought home a
+considerable quantity of pearls of middling quality, which the
+Sherif Ghalib afterwards took from him at Djidda. He told me that
+the bottom of the sea in the bay was full of pearl-oysters, and
+that they may easily be fished, as the water is not very deep. It
+is not however frequented at present for pearl-fishing, partly
+because the treacherous character of the Bisharein, who inhabit the
+harbour, is much dreaded; but chiefly because the ship-owners are
+fearful of its being said that they have found treasures of pearls,
+which would immediately attract the attention of the government of
+Djidda. I was repeatedly assured that the coast northwards from
+Djebel Mekouar towards Kosseir is entirely unknown to the Souakin
+and Kosseir pilots; and that of the Djidda pilots very few only, of
+the tribe of the Zebeyde Arabs, have even a slight knowledge of it.
+No commerce, nor direct intercourse is carried on between Kosseir
+and Souakin; and the navigation of this part of the coast, as well
+as northward from Kosseir to Suez, is scarcely ever performed by
+natives of the Red Sea. The Zebeyde Arabs alone sometimes touch at
+the harbour of Olba, which is four days sail beyond the harbour of
+Dóngola, and five<span class="pagenum" id="Page_472">[472]</span>
+from Djebel Mekouar. Pearls are said to be found all along this
+coast, as far south as Massouah, but no where in such plenty as at
+Mersa Dóngola.</p>
+
+<p>We had to repair a leak in the vessel, occasioned by her
+striking on a coral reef the preceding day; proper arrangements
+were also made in the distribution of the cargo and passengers, in
+order to leave room sufficient for the sailors to work the vessel
+in the passage across the sea, which the Arabians never undertake
+without evident signs of fear, and without recommending themselves
+to the protection of the Prophet and all the saints.</p>
+
+<p><em>July 15th.</em>—A favourable wind sprung up this morning,
+and we steered for the open sea. A compass was brought from amongst
+the ship’s lumber, but merely for form’s sake, for the captain and
+pilot quarrelled which was the due north. Towards evening the wind
+increased, when the sailors exchanged the large sail for a smaller.
+When night set in, the brilliant light on the surface of the water,
+wherever it was agitated, greatly astonished the Negroes, who
+endeavoured in vain to obtain an explanation of the phænomenon from
+the sailors. We passed a cold uncomfortable night, no one having
+room enough to sleep in. The bold travellers of the desert betrayed
+great fear in the open sea, to the great amusement of the people
+from Souakin.</p>
+
+<p><em>July 16th.</em> Early in the morning we descried the coast
+of Arabia; the ignorance of the pilot now became evident, for
+instead of finding ourselves off Djidda, as we might have been, had
+he steered by compass, we were at least fifty miles to the south of
+it. We entered a small bay in full sail, and had nearly foundered
+by a whirlwind that sprung up at the moment. We found the beach to
+be entirely barren, and without wells or springs to a considerable
+distance; no Bedouins were any where visible. We were now in great
+distress for water; the last supply we had<span class="pagenum" id="Page_473">[473]</span> taken in at Arakyá was nearly consumed; and
+the water-skins of the Tekaýrne were all empty; the wind was foul,
+and we had no reasonable hope of reaching Djidda in less than two
+days. In the evening the greater part of the Tekaýrne left the
+ship, to proceed by land to Djidda; the sailors represented this
+place to them as being much nearer than it really was, and pointed
+to a mountain, about twelve miles distant from our anchorage, where
+they said a well would be found; but where, as I afterwards
+understood, no such well existed, their design being merely to get
+rid of the pilgrims in the fear that necessity might at last force
+them to fall upon the crew’s stock of water.<a id="FNanchor_172"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_172">[82]</a> The Souakin ships seldom arrive at Djidda
+with pilgrims, without their having suffered from a want of water;
+the number of pilgrims on board being always so great, that it is
+impossible for them to carry a supply for more than three days,
+without a sacrifice of other conveniences, which they are never
+willing to make; and Djebel Mekouar, from whence the ship takes her
+departure for the opposite coast, furnishes no water at all. I
+afterwards saw Negroes at Djidda who had not drank water during
+this passage for four whole days. We were obliged to remain at
+anchor here till the following day. There are fewer shells on this
+coast than on the other.</p>
+
+<p><em>July 17th.</em> About noon we sailed with a southerly
+breeze, and at sunset the vessel was moored to a coral reef at some
+distance from the shore. There was an almost total eclipse of the
+sun this morning; the sailors and the Tekaýrne who remained on
+board were all equally terrified at the unusual darkness which
+surrounded them. According to the Mohammedan law, every
+Mussulman<span class="pagenum" id="Page_474">[474]</span> repeated
+two Rekats (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">صلاةْ الكسفه</span>
+Salat el-kassfé, i. e. Prayers of the eclipse), which done,
+kettles, swords, shields, and spoons were beaten against each other
+while the eclipse continued.</p>
+
+<p><em>July 18th.</em> It was a calm this morning, and the sailors
+were employed at the oars; but they became so fatigued with rowing,
+that we entered about mid-day a harbour opposite to the tomb of a
+Shikh, with a cupola upon it; it was called Shikh Amer
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شيخ عمرْ</span>) There was now not
+a drop of water in the vessel; a well was said to be in the
+mountain behind the shore, but no one on board knew exactly in what
+part; and though we were so near Djidda as to hear the report of
+some guns in the evening, yet there was a probability of our still
+remaining on board several days, and thus suffering all the pangs
+of thirst. I desired therefore to be set on shore upon a raft which
+the captain had purchased at Tebade. The Greek passenger, and two
+Souakin men, with their slaves also followed. We walked the whole
+night along the barren beach, which was covered with a saline
+crust, till we fell in with the high road leading along shore
+towards Yemen; about an hour from Djidda we reached a Bedouin
+encampment, where we refreshed ourselves, and safely entered the
+town in good health. In the course of the morning of the 19th, we
+smuggled the slaves who had walked with us, into Djidda; those
+landed from the ships pay a duty of a dollar a head. The vessel
+arrived the day following, the 20th July, 1814.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftc3">
+<p class="fthead">FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_91"></a><a href="#FNanchor_91"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>The traders are in the habit of giving to
+their camels several days before they start, each day three times
+the usual quantity of Dhourra; which they force down their throats.
+The camels chew this supply of food for several days after, during
+the march.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_92"></a><a href="#FNanchor_92"><span class="label">[2]</span></a>The Nubians fight naked in the same
+manner.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_93"></a><a href="#FNanchor_93"><span class="label">[3]</span></a>The Ababde pay some deference to the Fellah
+merchants, and are unwilling to disoblige them, because they expect
+presents from them. But the Ababde enjoy much higher credit every
+where than the Fellahs, and in all essential points the latter must
+yield to the former.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_94"></a><a href="#FNanchor_94"><span class="label">[4]</span></a>Until lately eunuchs belonging to Mekka and
+Medina often went upon mendicant expeditions into Soudan. In 1811,
+an eunuch went there, and was so much respected, for his connection
+with the holy places, that he formed a strong party, and at length
+possessed himself of a district, which he now governs as Melek, or
+King.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_95"></a><a href="#FNanchor_95"><span class="label">[5]</span></a>Sélames are common all over Nubia, as well as
+in Taka and Suakin. A man when he has no lance in his hand is
+seldom without a Sélame.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_96"></a><a href="#FNanchor_96"><span class="label">[6]</span></a>Their pay is five dollars from each man, and
+as much from every load. On the return they take from each slave
+two dollars, and from every load coming from the black countries
+five dollars.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_97"></a><a href="#FNanchor_97"><span class="label">[7]</span></a>See below.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_98"></a><a href="#FNanchor_98"><span class="label">[8]</span></a>This kind of wound is very dangerous, and is
+called Dabr (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ضَبر</span>). It takes
+place on the fore shoulders and the fore ribs of the camels, and is
+occasioned by bad saddles. Wounds in other parts of the body are
+soon healed, when the camels have enjoyed some days of repose.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_99"></a><a href="#FNanchor_99"><span class="label">[9]</span></a>Temsah is the family name, meaning
+crocodile.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_100"></a><a href="#FNanchor_100"><span class="label">[10]</span></a>Goz is a term applied in the Negro countries
+to villages built in sandy plains.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_101"></a><a href="#FNanchor_101"><span class="label">[11]</span></a>See the former Journal.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_102"></a><a href="#FNanchor_102"><span class="label">[12]</span></a>Fakir means a poor man (before the
+Lord.)</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_103"></a><a href="#FNanchor_103"><span class="label">[13]</span></a>At Tekake, in Mograt, there lives a tribe of
+Fokaha (plu. of Fakih,) who are Sherifs (nobles), and pretend to
+descend from the Abbassides (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شُرفاَ
+من بن عبّاس</span>.) Shorafa mimbaní Abbass.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_104"></a><a href="#FNanchor_104"><span class="label">[14]</span></a>At Wady Heysad, (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي حيصاد</span>) a village on the Nile, in Mograt, two and a
+half days journey from Berber, there lives a celebrated Fakih, who
+has a great number of disciples.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_105"></a><a href="#FNanchor_105"><span class="label">[15]</span></a>I have seen several Fokaha at Berber and
+Damer who knew the whole of the Koran by heart.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_106"></a><a href="#FNanchor_106"><span class="label">[16]</span></a>In all these countries the Bahmieh is called
+Weyke, (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ويكه</span>).</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_107"></a><a href="#FNanchor_107"><span class="label">[17]</span></a>The expression used here, and also in Egypt,
+when any traveller is seen taking notes, is, “he writes down the
+country.” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">يكتب البلاد</span>).</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_108"></a><a href="#FNanchor_108"><span class="label">[18]</span></a>There is no distinction made in these
+countries between villages and towns. Every inhabited place of any
+size is called Beled, and a small hamlet Nezle. The word Medineh
+(city or town) is never applied to any place in this part of
+Soudan.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_109"></a><a href="#FNanchor_109"><span class="label">[19]</span></a><span class="arabic" lang="ar">يُسَبّحِ
+باِلحصوةِ صَمَدَهِ</span>. Musulmans, in praying over their beads
+say; “Praise be to God;” as they pass each bead through their
+fingers.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_110"></a><a href="#FNanchor_110"><span class="label">[20]</span></a>The Μεγαβάροι, perhaps, of Strabo.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_111"></a><a href="#FNanchor_111"><span class="label">[21]</span></a>The vizier of Sennaar, of the Adelan family,
+is said to be the real master there, while the king has a mere
+shadow of authority.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_112"></a><a href="#FNanchor_112"><span class="label">[22]</span></a>In Egypt, the meal of the Tormos is used as
+a substitute for soap in washing the head and body.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_113"></a><a href="#FNanchor_113"><span class="label">[23]</span></a>The trade in ostrich feathers is one of the
+most complicated in the markets of Africa: at Cairo the feathers
+are assorted into several different qualities, and parcels are made
+up by the Jews (who alone understand the trade well), containing
+portions of every kind. Each parcel of ten pounds weight must
+contain one pound of the finest and whitest sort, one pound of the
+second quality, also white, but of a smaller size, and eight pounds
+of the sorts called Jemina, Bajoca, Coda, and Spadone, the last of
+which is black, and of little value. The market price of white
+sorted feathers is at present (1816) two hundred and eighty
+piastres per rotolo, or pound, or two thousand eight hundred
+piastres, each parcel of ten pounds.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_114"></a><a href="#FNanchor_114"><span class="label">[24]</span></a>The <em>Editor</em> saw it growing in the
+island of Elephantine.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_115"></a><a href="#FNanchor_115"><span class="label">[25]</span></a>The same name is given to cinnamon, which is
+here called Kerfé Hindy.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_116"></a><a href="#FNanchor_116"><span class="label">[26]</span></a>Berr, originally meaning “continent,” is a
+word often used to indicate the whole extent of the Soudan
+countries.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_117"></a><a href="#FNanchor_117"><span class="label">[27]</span></a>The Arabs say <span class="arabic" lang="ar">سَنط</span> and <span class="arabic" lang="ar">سُنط</span>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_118"></a><a href="#FNanchor_118"><span class="label">[28]</span></a>The Sembil is the <i>Valeriana Celtica</i>,
+or Spiga Celtica of the Italians. It is chiefly grown in the
+southern provinces of the Austrian dominions, and is exported from
+Venice and Trieste. The Mehleb is brought from Armenia and Persia,
+and is exported from Smyrna and other ports of Asia Minor. It
+appears to be the fruit of a species of <i>Tilia</i>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_119"></a><a href="#FNanchor_119"><span class="label">[29]</span></a>The most fashionable among the women of the
+town at Shendy have fixed the price of their favours at a loaf of
+sugar.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_120"></a><a href="#FNanchor_120"><span class="label">[30]</span></a>The expenses of the outward journey are
+three times as much as those attending the transport back from
+Berber to Daraou, on account of the cheapness of camels at
+Berber.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_121"></a><a href="#FNanchor_121"><span class="label">[31]</span></a>Upon every slave imported into Upper Egypt,
+Government exacts at present a duty of sixty piastres. The most
+important articles of the trade, as slaves, Erdeyb, ostrich
+feathers, natron (from Darfour), are besides exclusively bought up
+by the Pasha, who fixes a maximum to the Soudan merchants, and
+resells them at pleasure, with a great profit.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_122"></a><a href="#FNanchor_122"><span class="label">[32]</span></a>The Pasha of Djidda takes the title of
+Governor of Djidda, Souakin, and the Habbesh, or Abyssinia
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">والي جده و سواكن و الحبش</span>),
+although he possesses nothing in the latter country, except the
+customs of Massouah, and the nominal jurisdiction of that place.
+Since the Wahabi have reduced the Hedjaz, and, in conjunction with
+Ghaleb, Sherif of Mekka, have dispossessed the Turks of Djidda,
+Ghaleb has taken Massouah into his own hands.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_123"></a><a href="#FNanchor_123"><span class="label">[33]</span></a>The eastern fashion is to give, as a
+present, a suit of clothes (Kessoua <span class="arabic" lang="ar">كسّوه</span>), and a sum for pocket-money (Massrouf,
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مصروف</span>).</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_124"></a><a href="#FNanchor_124"><span class="label">[34]</span></a>Such is the pronunciation given to this word
+by the Arabs, and not Amhara, as Bruce writes it. The Abyssinians
+are not called Habbeshy, but Nekkaty, by which appellation the
+whole country is more frequently known than by that of Habbesh.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_125"></a><a href="#FNanchor_125"><span class="label">[35]</span></a>It is well known how little discrimination
+the Arabs shew in judging of quantities; the terms long or short,
+great or small, high or low, deep or shallow, &amp;c. &amp;c. are
+seldom accurately applied by them, and in their descriptions they
+generally magnify or diminish the object beyond what it naturally
+is.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_126"></a><a href="#FNanchor_126"><span class="label">[36]</span></a>Formerly the Sennaar caravans brought as
+much as 2000 cwt. of gum arabic, annually, to Egypt; at present
+they do not bring more than 100 cwt. The gum arabic which is
+collected from the acacias, in the deserts of the Hedjaz, is known
+at Cairo under the name of Samegh Embawy or rather Yembawy, from
+Yembo, (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">صَمغ يمباعوي</span>). The
+gum arabic collected in the deserts of Suez, Tyh, and in Mount
+Sinai, is called <i>Gomma Torica</i> (Samegh Tori, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">صَمغ طوري</span>), from the Arabs of Tor; this
+is exported to no part of Europe but France. The Kordofan gum is of
+the best quality, small grained, and of the clearest white. The
+Sennaar gum is less esteemed.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_127"></a><a href="#FNanchor_127"><span class="label">[37]</span></a>Since the Mamelouks have established
+themselves in Dóngola, they are under the necessity of procuring
+their Egyptian articles by the way of Shendy. The shortest road,
+which is across the mountains from Korti, in the southern limits of
+Dóngola, is five days journey, but it is not quite safe.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_128"></a><a href="#FNanchor_128"><span class="label">[38]</span></a>Wherever I use the word Turks, I mean the
+Osmanli, or Mohammedans of Europe and Asia Minor.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_129"></a><a href="#FNanchor_129"><span class="label">[39]</span></a>I met with a Djeheyne Arab at Cairo, who
+told me that the tribe consisted of both Bedouins and
+cultivators.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_130"></a><a href="#FNanchor_130"><span class="label">[40]</span></a>In the country of Sennaar the slave is not
+called Abd but Raghig.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_131"></a><a href="#FNanchor_131"><span class="label">[41]</span></a>During the wars of the Sherif of Mekka with
+Saoud, the chief of the Wahabi, the Arab tribe of Kahtan was
+particularly obnoxious to the Sherif, as being zealous proselytes
+of the Wahabi faith. He once took forty of them prisoners, and
+telling them that he had already killed individuals enough of their
+tribe, he ordered the whole to be mutilated and sent to their
+homes. As they were all grown up men, two only survived the
+operation; these rejoined their families, and became afterwards
+most desperate enemies of the Sherif Ghaleb; one of them killed the
+cousin of Ghaleb with his own hand, in battle; the other was killed
+in endeavouring, on another occasion, to pierce through the ranks
+of Ghaleb’s cavalry, in order to revenge himself personally upon
+the Sherif. The Sherif was much blamed for his cruelty, such an
+action being very contrary to the generally compassionate
+dispositions of the Arabs; I mention it to shew that the ancient
+practice of treating prisoners in this manner, as represented in
+the paintings on several of the temples of Upper Egypt,
+particularly at Medinet Habou, is not quite forgotten: but the
+above is the only instance of the kind I ever heard of.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_132"></a><a href="#FNanchor_132"><span class="label">[42]</span></a>Mihi contigit nigram quandam puellam, qui
+hanc operationem subierat, inspicere. Labia pudendi acu et filo
+consuta mihi plane detecta fuere, foramine angusto in meatum urinæ
+relicto. Apud Esne, Siout, et Cairo, tonsores sunt, qui
+obstructionem novaculâ amovent, sed vulnus haud raro lethale
+evenit.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_133"></a><a href="#FNanchor_133"><span class="label">[43]</span></a>W. G. Browne’s Travels to Africa, &amp;c. p.
+347. The same custom, as well as that mentioned in the next page,
+has also been described by M. Frank in the Mémoires sur l’Egypte,
+tome 4, p. 125.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_134"></a><a href="#FNanchor_134"><span class="label">[44]</span></a>Excisio clitoridis. The custom is very
+ancient. Strabo (p. 284) says—και τοῦτο δὲ τῶν ζηλουμένων μάλιστα
+παρ᾽ αὐτοῖς (τοῖς Αἰγυπτίοις) τὸ πάντα τρέφειν τὰ γεννωμένα παιδία,
+καὶ τὸ περιτέμνειν, καὶ τὰ θήλεα ἐκτέμνειν. ὅπερ καὶ τοῖς Ἰουδαίοις
+νόμιμον καὶ οὗτοι δὲ εἰσὶν Αἰγύπτιοι.</p>
+
+<p>Its effect in rendering them <em>Mukhaeyt</em> has not been
+noticed by the ancients. Cicatrix, post excisionem clitoridis,
+parietes ipsos vaginæ, foramine parvo relicto, inter se glutinat.
+Cum tempus nuptiarum adveniat, membranam, a quâ vagina clauditur,
+coram pluribus pronubis inciditur, sponso ipso adjuvante. Interdum
+evenit ut operationem efficere nequeant sine ope mulieris aliquæ
+expertæ, quæ scalpello partes in vaginâ profundius rescindit.
+Maritus crastinâ die cum uxore plerumque habitat: unde illa
+Araborum sentenzia, “Leilat ed-dokhlé messel leilat el fatouh”
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ليلة الدُخله مشل ليلة
+الفتوح</span>) i. e. post diem aperturæ, dies initus. Ex hoc
+consuetudine fit ut sponsus nunquam decipiatur, et ex hoc fit ut in
+Ægypto Superiori innuptæ repulsare lascivias hominum parum student,
+dicentes, “Tabousny wala’ takhergany” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تبوسني ولا تخرقني</span>). Sed quantum eis sit invita hæc
+continentia, post matrimonium demonstrant, libidini quam maxime
+indulgentes.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_135"></a><a href="#FNanchor_135"><span class="label">[45]</span></a>Rif is the name given to Egypt throughout
+those countries; it means properly a low ground abounding in
+water.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_136"></a><a href="#FNanchor_136"><span class="label">[46]</span></a>A curious proof of this happened while I was
+in Upper Egypt; a great man who had bought two girls at Siout from
+the Darfour caravan, soon afterwards made a party with some friends
+to spend an afternoon in the cool caves in the mountain behind
+Siout, and ordered the two girls to attend him. When they entered
+the caves they immediately conceived it to be the place destined
+for their immolation; and when the knives were produced to cut the
+meat that had been brought for dinner, one of them ran off, and
+endeavoured to escape, while the other threw herself on the ground,
+imploring the company to spare her. It required a considerable time
+to convince them that their fears were ill-founded.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_137"></a><a href="#FNanchor_137"><span class="label">[47]</span></a>On the death of a Djaaly chief at Shendy, I
+saw the female relations of the deceased walking through all the
+principal streets and places, uttering the most lamentable
+howlings. Their bodies were half naked, and the little clothing
+they had on was in rags; while the head, face, and breast, being
+almost entirely covered with ashes, they had altogether a most
+ghastly appearance. They were accompanied by their female friends,
+in great numbers, echoing their howlings, and continually clasping
+their hands. Several cows were killed in the evening, and small
+dishes of the flesh sent to all the foreign merchants.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_138"></a><a href="#FNanchor_138"><span class="label">[48]</span></a>A Greek priest, with whom I visited part of
+the Hauran, south of Damascus, made me pay two paras for every
+answer he gave me on curious subjects, and one para for the name of
+every village, or Arab tribe which I noted down, from his
+information; for every Greek inscription he found for me to copy,
+he received five paras.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_139"></a><a href="#FNanchor_139"><span class="label">[49]</span></a>As far as I am able to judge, the road to
+Sennaar is practicable to a Christian or Frank traveller, or to an
+experienced person of any nation; but the routes from the Nile
+towards the Red Sea are impracticable to any one who cannot appear
+as a native trader.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_140"></a><a href="#FNanchor_140"><span class="label">[50]</span></a>Adjem (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عجم</span>). This word is applied by the Arabians to Persia on
+the one side, and on the other to the countries of the African
+coast opposite to Arabia, where many different languages are
+spoken. These countries are still known to the inhabitants of Yemen
+and the Hedjaz, by the name of Berr el Adjem (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">برّ العجم</span>), under which appellation is comprised
+the whole of the coast from Souakin to Barbara, not excepting
+Abyssinia. It is the <i>Regnum Adjamiæ</i> of the European
+geographers.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_141"></a><a href="#FNanchor_141"><span class="label">[51]</span></a>See <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_160">p. 160.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_142"></a><a href="#FNanchor_142"><span class="label">[52]</span></a>The Kaszyde is one of the most ancient kinds
+of Arabic versification; the compositions in it are never long,
+rarely exceeding one hundred distichs, and they ought not to
+contain less than twenty, though some of seven are met with. The
+long or true Kaszyde is confined to heroic or serious subjects; the
+shorter are generally of a playful or amatory description. The
+versification is peculiar, the two first lines of the poem, and
+each alternate one, throughout, ending with the same sound. See
+Jones’s Comment. Poet. Asiat. c. iii. p. 78.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_143"></a><a href="#FNanchor_143"><span class="label">[53]</span></a>The slaves of the Mek are the only persons
+who sometimes wear their master’s fire-arms.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_144"></a><a href="#FNanchor_144"><span class="label">[54]</span></a>I afterwards learnt that a Shikh can never
+be the chief of a caravan; because, according to the ancient custom
+still prevalent in the eastern deserts of Arabia, the Shikh of the
+tribe is never the commander (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قايد</span> Kayed) of the armed parties, which the tribe sends
+out against an enemy. He may join the expedition, but the command
+of it is in the Kayed or leader, a dignity which is always
+hereditary in the same family. The Arabs say, (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الشيخ ما يقيد القوم</span>) Es Shikh ma yakyd el koum.
+“The Shikh has no right to be a leader.” I shall recur to this
+subject in a future journal.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_145"></a><a href="#FNanchor_145"><span class="label">[55]</span></a>Several of the Souakin merchants had
+concubines with them, whom they always carry with them on their
+travels.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_146"></a><a href="#FNanchor_146"><span class="label">[56]</span></a>In all the Mussulman countries the female
+cousins can be demanded in marriage by the males of the family.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_147"></a><a href="#FNanchor_147"><span class="label">[57]</span></a>I omitted to mention in a preceding part of
+this journal, that in all the countries on the Nile which I
+visited, as well as in the Nubian desert, I observed the people
+make use of small wooden supports, about five inches in height,
+with a top about the same length, and three or four inches broad,
+much resembling, on the whole, the head of a crutch; they are
+formed out of single pieces of very hard wood, and the best are
+brought from Sennaar; they are placed under the head when persons
+go to sleep, or serve during the day-time to rest one arm upon
+while in a reclining position. Whenever a great man walks out, one
+of these supports is carried after him, and in the house or tent of
+every person one of them is always found, which is offered to the
+stranger who pays a visit; but it requires to have been accustomed
+to it from infancy to find any kind of ease in the use of it. I am
+led to notice this, from observing in Mr. Salt’s book that a
+similar machine is used in Abyssinia, the manners of which country
+appear, from the descriptions of Mr. Salt and Mr. Bruce, to bear a
+great resemblance to those of the people on the borders of the
+Nile.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_148"></a><a href="#FNanchor_148"><span class="label">[58]</span></a>Several of the Bisharye tribes, although
+Bedouins, do not despise agriculture; they repair to the banks of
+the Atbara immediately after the inundation, to sow Dhourra, and
+remain there till the harvest is gathered in, when they return to
+their mountains. During the hottest part of the summer, when
+pasturage is dried up in the desert, they again descend, to feed
+their cattle on the herbage on the borders of the stream. In like
+manner the Turkmans in the vicinity of Aleppo are both Bedouins and
+cultivators.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_149"></a><a href="#FNanchor_149"><span class="label">[59]</span></a>Whenever the country is dangerous the whole
+caravan is divided into two watches, one till midnight, and the
+other from midnight till day.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_150"></a><a href="#FNanchor_150"><span class="label">[60]</span></a><span class="arabic" lang="ar">استعجلوا يا
+ناس الجلابه ساقت اذا قعدنا يقتلونا يا الله دلوّا قِرَبّكم وشدّوا
+علي جمالكم</span>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_151"></a><a href="#FNanchor_151"><span class="label">[61]</span></a><span class="arabic" lang="ar">البجه
+سُكَّانها يسمون بجاوا</span>, Bedja and its inhabitants are called
+Bedjawa.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_152"></a><a href="#FNanchor_152"><span class="label">[62]</span></a>This year, as I learnt afterwards at
+Souakin, it began about the 26th or 29th of June.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_153"></a><a href="#FNanchor_153"><span class="label">[63]</span></a>When I was in Upper Egypt, the Erdeyb of the
+best wheat, about fifteen bushels, cost five patacks, equivalent to
+eleven bushels for a Spanish dollar. The Pasha monopolized it, and
+sold it at Alexandria, for forty patacks the Erdeyb, or eleven
+bushels for eight dollars.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_154"></a><a href="#FNanchor_154"><span class="label">[64]</span></a>The Souakin merchants are equally unused to
+fire-arms. A few Arabians sometimes pass this way armed with
+matchlocks, in company with the Souakin caravans, on their road to
+Shendy or Sennaar.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_155"></a><a href="#FNanchor_155"><span class="label">[65]</span></a>The mosque El Azhar is famous for its pious
+foundations for the relief of poor travellers of various nations.
+In this building the Upper Egyptians, the Negroes, the Moggrebyns,
+the Abyssinians, (or Djebert, as they are called,) the Yemeny, the
+Indians, the Afghans and Soleymany, the Bokharas, the Persians, the
+Kurds, the Anatolians, the Syrians, &amp;c. &amp;c. have each their
+separate establishment, called Rouaks, over which one of the
+principal Olemas of Cairo presides; these together form the Olema
+of El Azhar, a body which has often made Pashas tremble.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_156"></a><a href="#FNanchor_156"><span class="label">[66]</span></a>This, like the other names of places, since
+we have quitted the Atbara, is not of Arabic, but Bisharye
+formation.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_157"></a><a href="#FNanchor_157"><span class="label">[67]</span></a>This tree bears a great resemblance to the
+larch: I often saw it in the Hedjaz: the dried branches, as I was
+told, are used to procure fire, by rubbing them against each
+other.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_158"></a><a href="#FNanchor_158"><span class="label">[68]</span></a>This comprises the whole country south of
+Langay, as far as the Atbara, and the Abyssinian mountains,
+including Taka.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_159"></a><a href="#FNanchor_159"><span class="label">[69]</span></a>Thus pronounced in the vulgar dialect of the
+Hedjaz, instead of Hadhareme, the plural of Hadhramy, or a native
+of Hadhar el Mout (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حضر الموت</span>,
+meaning in Arabic, “Come death,”) and which Europeans have
+converted into Hadramout. The people of Hadramout are famous for
+emigrating; large colonies of them are found in all the towns of
+the Yemen and Hedjaz. The greater part of the people of Djidda, and
+the lower class of the inhabitants of Mekka, are from the same
+country.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_160"></a><a href="#FNanchor_160"><span class="label">[70]</span></a>It is in a liquid state, which is the only
+kind of butter used in the black countries. It is made, as in Egypt
+and Arabia, by shaking the milk in goatskins till the butter
+separates (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بخضّوا
+القِربَ</span>).</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_161"></a><a href="#FNanchor_161"><span class="label">[71]</span></a>I had assumed the name of Osmanly on
+quitting Shendy, having there heard that there was an officer of
+the Pasha at Souakin, and another at Massouah.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_162"></a><a href="#FNanchor_162"><span class="label">[72]</span></a>This method of swimming is called, on the
+lakes in Swisserland, ‘Water-treading.’ Das wasser stampfen.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_163"></a><a href="#FNanchor_163"><span class="label">[73]</span></a>This seems to be the only crime in the east
+which has not yet penetrated into Africa, where all classes express
+disgust and horror at the descriptions given by the returning
+pilgrims, of the unnatural excesses of the Turks and Arabians.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_164"></a><a href="#FNanchor_164"><span class="label">[74]</span></a>See under 14th July.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_165"></a><a href="#FNanchor_165"><span class="label">[75]</span></a><span class="arabic" lang="ar">ما هو الحمل
+بَسّ بَل نا خذ عفشك كله و نفتّشه و ندبّر شغلك مع لفندينا حقاً و لا
+تخمّن انك تحيّل علينا يا معرّص و استكثر بخيرنا اذا ما رمينا
+رقبنك</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_166"></a><a href="#FNanchor_166"><span class="label">[76]</span></a>Dhourra is transported from Taka to Souakin
+in baskets two of which make a camel’s load, and in these it is
+shipped to Djidda.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_167"></a><a href="#FNanchor_167"><span class="label">[77]</span></a>It was on one of these occasions that a
+small sack of mine in which were all the collections I had made at
+Shendy, fell overboard through the negligence of a sailor. A few
+specimens of rocks still remain in my possession.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_168"></a><a href="#FNanchor_168"><span class="label">[78]</span></a>In the market of Souakin I often saw hares,
+and was told that the Bedouins in the neighbourhood follow their
+footsteps in the sands, and surprise and kill them during the noon
+tide heat, while they rest under the shade of the shrubs.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_169"></a><a href="#FNanchor_169"><span class="label">[79]</span></a>This is an Arabic name; the names of the
+bays we had hitherto visited are Bisharye.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_170"></a><a href="#FNanchor_170"><span class="label">[80]</span></a>The Syrian Bedouins have the same custom in
+bargaining for their horses. The purchaser states the price he is
+willing to give, and the owner, without explaining the sum he
+wants, replies to every bidding by the word Hot (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حط</span>, give or set down,) till the bidder
+has reached the price which he has fixed in his own mind.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_171"></a><a href="#FNanchor_171"><span class="label">[81]</span></a>Thus they say, “We crossed over the sea on
+such a day” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نحن كورّنا البحر يوم
+الفلاني</span>)—and again, “We started from Djebel to cross over to
+Djidda (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نحن كورّنا من الجبل الي
+جدّه</span>). In the northern parts of the Red Sea they use,
+instead of the second expression, the verb <span class="arabic" lang="ar">دفع</span>, and say, “We started from Ras Mohammed to
+cross over to the western continent (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نحن دفعنا من راس محمّد الي البَّر الغربي</span>).</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_172"></a><a href="#FNanchor_172"><span class="label">[82]</span></a>These unfortunate Tekaýrne were two days and
+a half in reaching Djidda; one of their women and a boy, perished
+of thirst by the way, and the remainder of the party arrived in an
+exhausted state: they uttered bitter complaints against the sailors
+for their falsehood.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div class="page">
+<hr class="decordb width20">
+
+<p class="center spaced3 xlarge"><span class="letter-spaced02">APPENDI</span>X.</p>
+
+<hr class="decordb width20">
+</div>
+
+<p class="space-above x-ebookmaker-drop">
+</p>
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_477">[477]</span><a id="ap1"></a>APPENDI<span class="word-spaced8">X. N</span>o. I.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decordb width10 spaced2">
+
+<div class="appendix">
+<p class="center space-above15 space-below15"><em>Itinerary from
+the Frontiers of Bornou, by Bahr el Ghazal, and Darfour to
+Shendy.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p class="drop-cap">F<span class="sc">rom</span> Bornou towards
+Bahr el Ghazal, lies Dar Katakou (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دار كتاكو</span>); its king is tributary to the king of
+Bornou, who resides at Birney (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">برني</span>).<a id="FNanchor_173"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_173">[1]</a>
+The principal districts of Katakou, which have all their own
+chiefs, are Dar Mandara (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">منضره</span>); Dar Mekry (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مكري</span>); Dar Ankala (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">انكالا</span>); Dar Afady (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">افَدي</span>); Dar Kolfey (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كلفي</span>). The Bedouin tribes in Katakou, are Beni
+Hassan<a id="FNanchor_174"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_174">[2]</a> (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بني حسن</span>); Oulad Abou Khedheyr (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اولاد ابو خضير</span>); El Nedjeymé
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">النجيمه</span>); El Fellate
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الفلّاته</span>); Beni Seid
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بني صيد</span>); Essalamat
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">السلامت</span>); El Kobbar
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الكبّار</span>); El Aouy Sye
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">العويسيه</span>); Om Ibrahim
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ام ابراهيم</span>); El Adjayfe
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">العجايفه</span>). All these tribes
+pay tribute to Bornou; and all pretend to draw their origin from
+Arabia. Some of them speak the Bornou language, while others, as
+the Beni Hassan, Essalamat, Om Ibrahim, speak only Arabic. The
+strongest among them are the Fellate. They are often at war with
+the king of Bornou, and have, in later times, it should seem,
+extended their influence over the northern limits of Soudan, quite
+across the continent, for they are also in great strength at
+Timbuctou; and about ten years ago conquered, and half ruined
+Kashna. Their chief force is cavalry, and their chiefs dress in
+robes of coloured cloth or silk.</p>
+
+<p>Between Katakou and Bahr el Ghazal, flows the great river called
+Shary (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شاري</span>), in
+a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_478">[478]</span> direction, as far
+as I could learn, from N.E. to S.W.,<a id="FNanchor_175"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_175">[3]</a> towards Bagerme, but its source was
+unknown. It is represented to be as large as the Nile, full of
+fish, and abounding with crocodiles, hippopotami, and an animal
+called Om Kergay (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ام قرغي</span>),
+said to be as large as the rhinoceros, with a very small head and
+mouth, but harmless. Its banks are inhabited by elephants,
+rhinoceroses, lions, and giraffas. The Bahr Djad (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بحر جاد</span>) a considerable stream, runs into
+the Shary, besides several smaller ones. The tribe Abou Khedheyr
+reside chiefly on its banks, which are also visited in the summer
+by the other Bedouins, for the purpose of pasturing their cattle.
+From the limits of Bornou to Bahr Shary is fifteen days slow march,
+in the direction of the Kebly.<a id="FNanchor_176"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_176">[4]</a>
+The route from Bahr Shary to Bahr el Ghazal is in the same
+direction.</p>
+
+<p>The Bahr el Ghazal (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بحر
+الغزال</span>) is a wide extent of low ground without any
+mountains: it is called Bahr (i. e. sea, or river), and also Wady,
+because tradition reports, that in ancient times a large river
+flowed through it. Rice grows wild; elephants are in great numbers,
+and all the other wild beasts above mentioned are found in it. It
+is inhabited only during the rainy season, and the months
+immediately following it, by Bedouins, who there pasture vast herds
+of cows, camels, and sheep (the latter without wool like those of
+Shendy), and who retire, in the dry season, towards the limits of
+Katakou, Bagerme, and Dar Saley. They purchase the Dhourra
+necessary for their consumption in Dar Saley and Bagerme; and in
+the latter place they also procure the blue and red striped cotton
+stuffs there manufactured, for which they give in exchange cows,
+the general currency of the country in all large bargains; a fine
+slave girl is there worth ten cows. All these Bedouins, as well as
+those of Katakou, are Mussulmans, and the greater part of them
+speak nothing but Arabic. They have a good breed of horses, which
+they mount in their wars; their weapons are lances, and a few
+two-edged swords of German manufacture, like those used in Nubia
+and Abyssinia; coats of mail, worth twenty cows each, are frequent
+among them; they ride mares only. They live in huts (Ishash
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عِشَش</span>) made of rushes and
+brushwood, and intermarry with the people of Bornou, Bagerme, and
+Saley. There is no trade in their country, which is not visited by
+any caravans; and it is not unusual to see heaps of elephants tusks
+collected, which no body carries away. These Bedouins are sometimes
+visited by Sherifs from the Hedjaz, who come by the way of Sennaar
+and Darfour, in order to solicit alms of the chiefs of the tribes,
+who respect them as descendants of the family of the Prophet. The
+chiefs, every three or four years, pay tribute to Bornou,
+consisting of horses,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_479">[479]</span> camels, and slaves. A man who possesses
+fifty cows, two camels, and a mare, is considered to be poor.
+Spanish dollars are found amongst them, but not as a currency. The
+law of retaliation is in full force. Among the Beni Hassan the
+price of blood (Azzeye, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">الذيه</span>) is two hundred cows, if a stranger kills one of
+them, or one hundred, if an Arab of the same tribe is the murderer,
+a distinction which is also made in Arabia. Few people among them
+read and write, or are Fakys; those who aspire to that name, study
+in the schools of Bagerme, Katakou, and Saley, and are held in
+great reverence by their countrymen. The place nearest to the Shary
+in the Bahr el Ghazal, is Kanem (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كانم</span>), four days distant; it is a large district
+inhabited by the tribes of Tendjear (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تنجر</span>) and Beni Wayl<a id="FNanchor_177"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_177">[5]</a>
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بني وايل</span>); they have their
+own language, and speak no Arabic. Between Kanem and Shary is the
+Dar Karka (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">داركاركا</span>), which
+forms no part of the Bahr el Ghazal; it is inhabited by the
+Bedouins Kory (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كوري</span>), who
+pasture their cattle on the banks of a large river, called Bahr el
+Feydh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بحر الفيض</span>), i. e. the
+inundating river, from its periodical risings, and which empties
+itself into the Shary. The Kory have a breed of very large cows,
+with horns two feet long.</p>
+
+<p>The principal tribe in the Bahr el Ghazal is that of Beni
+Hassan, who pretend to be from the Hedjaz, and who assert that the
+Sherif Rashouan is their forefather. They are related to the Beni
+Hassan in Katakou. They speak no other language than Arabic, are of
+a deep brown colour, and have lips rather thick, but nothing else
+of the Negroe character; their hair is not woolly. They are
+subdivided into the tribes Daghana (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دَغَنَه</span>), which inhabits close to Kanem; Oulad Mehareb
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اولاد محارب</span>); Oulad Serar
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اولاد سرار</span>); Oulad Ghanem
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اولاد غانم</span>); Oulad Abou Aisa
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اولاد ابو عيسي</span>), and El
+Aszalé (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الاصالع</span>). In the
+district occupied by the Daghana, is a place called Mezrag
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مزراق</span>), in which is a
+fresh-water lake (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بحر ما حلو</span>,
+Bahr ma halou), two days journies in length, and half a day in
+breadth; it is called Wady Hadaba (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وادي هدبا</span>), and is always filled with water. The
+Bedouins of Bahr el Ghazal are continually moving about. Three or
+four days from them, on the northern side, live Negroe tribes of
+infidels, who have many languages; as El Kareyda (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">القريده</span>); El Keshreda (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الكشرده</span>); El Nouarme (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">النوارمه</span>); El Famallah (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الفامالله</span>); the Arabs of Bahr el Ghazal
+often make predatory incursions among them, and drive away their
+children as slaves. If we had fire-locks, said my informant, we
+should soon be able to subdue them entirely.</p>
+
+<p>Four or five days from Bahr el Ghazal lies Bagerme (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">باكرمه</span>), a country lately conquered by
+the king of Saley; its inhabitants have a language of their own,
+but are all Mussulmans; their manufactories of cotton stuff furnish
+the whole of the eastern part of Soudan, with the stuff of which
+the people make their shirts. Once in two or three years caravans
+of Fakys go from Bagerme to Afnou, a journey of twenty or
+twenty-five days, to sell their stuffs; but they are often obliged
+to fight their way through the idolatrous tribes on the road. In
+Bagerme are the Bedouins Essalamat<span class="pagenum" id="Page_480">[480]</span> (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">السلامات</span>); Oulad Abou Dhou (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اولاد ابو ضو</span>); Fullatem (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فلّاتم</span>); Oulad Ahmad (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اولاد احمد</span>); not Oulad Ahmed; Oulad Aly<a id="FNanchor_178"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_178">[6]</a> (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اولاد
+علي</span>), who speak Arabic.</p>
+
+<p>From Kanem there is a road to Fittre (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فتره</span>) a journey of eight days. From Kanem to the
+Bedouins called Oulad Hameid (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اولاد
+حميد</span>) is three days; through the district of the Hameid two
+days; and from thence to Fittre three days. Another road leads from
+Fittre to Megrag, near the lake Hadaba, a journey of ten days. The
+Arabs of Fittre are Belale (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بلاله</span>), who inhabit nearest to the Bahr el Ghazal;
+Djaathene (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جاعثنه</span>);<a id="FNanchor_179"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_179">[7]</a>
+El Heleylat(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الحليلات</span>); El
+Khozam (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الخزام</span>). The road
+between Fittre and Bahr el Ghazal is inhabited by Bedouins only in
+the rainy season. The only travellers who pass through these
+districts are a few Negroe pilgrims, who follow the wandering
+tribes in their slow and irregular movements, proceeding from tribe
+to tribe till they reach Saley, where they join the caravans of
+merchants.</p>
+
+<p>From Fittre to Dar Saley (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دار
+صليح</span>), are three days journey. The Arabs Beni Hassan, in the
+Bahr el Ghazal, turn their faces towards Dar Saley when they pray.
+The King of Saley, Abd el Kerim, nick-named Saboun, <em>Soap</em>,
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عبد الكريم صابون</span>) is, next
+to those of Darfour and Bornou, the most potent prince in the
+eastern part of Soudan,<a id="FNanchor_180"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_180">[8]</a>
+and has conquered several of the neighbouring states. Mekka is
+visited annually by pilgrims from his dominions. The Bedouin
+inhabitants in Dar Saley, are Mehameid (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">محاميد</span>); Nowadiéh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نواديه</span>); Beni Hellyé (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بني حليه</span>); El Masirieh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">المسيريه</span>); El Fawalé<a id="FNanchor_181"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_181">[9]</a>
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الفواله</span>); Essalamat
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">السّلامات</span>); Esshorafa
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الشّرفه</span>); El Aszalé
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الاصالع</span>); El Heymat
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الحيمات</span>); Oulad Rashed
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اولاد راشد</span>).<a id="FNanchor_182"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_182">[10]</a></p>
+
+<p>The soil of Saley is well cultivated, and sown with grain after
+the rains; the country is full of villages, with houses built of
+mud, like those of Shendy; and many of the above mentioned Bedouins
+have become settlers and cultivators. One of the principal villages
+in Dar Saley is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_481">[481]</span>
+called Kauka (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كَوكا</span>). There
+are many schools in the country; the Fakys, as well of Saley as of
+the countries to the east of it, all write the eastern Arabic
+Nuskhy character (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خط نسخي</span>),
+though very much corrupted; while those to the west and north have
+uniformly adopted the Moggrebyn character (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خط الغرب</span>), which differs in several of its letters
+from the eastern Arabic; this I know from my own observation, and I
+think it worth noticing.</p>
+
+<p>There are two routes from Dar Saley to Darfour. The shorter one
+leads over a hilly country, and a barren desert; there are three
+long days journeys from the farthest limits of Saley to the Dar
+Beni Mohammed (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دار بني
+محمّد</span>), a district of Bedouins belonging to Darfour. But
+travellers seldom use this road, because it is infested by robbers
+of both countries; they prefer a longer, but safer journey through
+a country where they meet with many rivulets. From Saley they
+proceed along the banks of the river Oulad Rashed (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بحر اولاد راشد</span>), next along those of the
+river Abou Redjeyle (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بحر ابو
+رجيله</span>), and further on by those of the river Om Etteymam
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بحر ام التّمام</span>). The borders
+of all these rivers are populous, and cultivated, and the grain
+Dhoken is plentiful there. From the last mentioned river they
+reach, in three days, Dar Rouka (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">رُكا</span>), and from thence cross an uninhabited district of
+fifteen days to Darfour. This is a safe road, but as there is no
+water whatever in this district, it is crossed only in the rainy
+season, or immediately after it; it is full of trees, among which
+is the Nebek, the Erdeyb (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شجر
+العرديب</span>) which bears the Tamarind; the ebony tree
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بابانومو</span>), which is very
+common; and also a tree called Djerdjak (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جرجق</span>), from which a kind of honey is extracted. As the
+Kings of Darfour and Saley are generally at war with each other,
+their respective officers are stationed at both extremities of the
+desert, who search the goods of the merchants and pilgrims, and
+confiscate every kind of fire arms, and all horses; the traveller
+suffers greatly from their rapacity. In travelling from Saley, the
+first district of Darfour which is entered, is that of Taayshe
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تعايشه</span>); from thence to
+Kobbe is five days, and from Kobbe to Dar Essoltáne, or the
+residence of the king, one day.</p>
+
+<p>The Bedouin inhabitants of Darfour are the Mehameid
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">محاميد</span>); Areykat
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عريقات</span>); Djeleydat
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جليدات</span>); Zeyadye
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">زياديه</span>); Beni Djella
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بني جلّه</span>); Taayshe
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تعايشه</span>); and
+Djeheyne<a id="FNanchor_183"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_183">[11]</a> (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جهينه</span>);
+they bring gum arabic, Tamarinds, ostrich feathers, and ivory, to
+the market of the slave-traders.</p>
+
+<p>From the Dar Essoltáne to the village of Ako (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اكو</span>) is four days journey, through an
+inhabited country; between Ako and the frontiers of Kordofan
+extends a desert of eight days, over which there are two roads; by
+the one the traveller proceeds straight across the desert, but
+finds no water; by the other he proceeds two days from Ako to a
+place called Armen (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ارمن</span>),
+inhabited by Arabs, where water is found, and from thence he
+crosses the waterless track in seven days. But this is a dangerous
+route on account of the incursions of the Arabs Bedeyat
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عرب بديات</span>), the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_482">[482]</span> same who often way-lay the
+Darfour caravans to Egypt. Both roads terminate on the frontiers of
+Kordofan at one point, at a village called Om Zemeyma (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">زميما</span>), from whence the caravans proceed
+through a cultivated and fertile country for three days to El
+Obeydh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الاُبيض</span>), the capital
+of Kordofan.</p>
+
+<p>Kordofan is at present under the jurisdiction of Darfour; its
+King, who is called Mosellim, was formerly a slave of the King of
+Darfour; he is praised for his justice, but it is said he would
+gladly act otherwise, were it not for fear of his master at Kobbe,
+in whose name he governs; he resides at Obeydha, and keeps about
+five hundred horsemen. There is also at Obeydha a king of the
+Tekaýrne (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مك التكارنه</span>), as he
+is styled; he is a native of Bornou, and a Tekroury himself; his
+jurisdiction extends over all the foreign traders, from whom he
+levies a tribute. Obeydha is a large place, but with few houses;
+the far greater part of the inhabitants live in huts made of
+bushes, to which is annexed a court yard enclosed by hedges. They
+are active traders, and also cultivators of the soil, their
+principal grain is Dokhen; and Bamyes and red pepper are
+common.</p>
+
+<p>The Bedouins of Kordofan are called Bakara, from their rearing
+great numbers of cows, Bakar (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بكر</span>). The principal tribes are Moteyeye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">متييه</span>); Hamma (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حمّاي</span>); Djeleydat (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جليدات</span>); Djerar (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جرار</span>); Kobabeish (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قبابيش</span>); Feysarah (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فيساره</span>), who bring the best ostrich feathers to the
+market of Obeydha; Zyade (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">زياده</span>); Beni Fadhel (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بني
+فضل</span>); Maaly (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">معالي</span>),
+and on the south-east limits of Kordofan, and subject to it, lives
+a strong tribe called Ghyatene (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">غياتنه</span>). They all speak Arabic exclusively, but
+intermarry with the free-born inhabitants of Obeydha and the
+surrounding villages, whose language is the idiom of Darfour. The
+Djerar, Kobabeish, and Feysara live to the north and north-east,
+and in winter time render the roads to Dóngola and Shendy
+dangerous. The Beni Fadhel and Maaly live on the route from Obeydha
+to Shilluk on the way to Sennaar; they supply the best Leban
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">لبان</span>), or incense. During
+the summer all these tribes approach the cultivated ground in
+search of pasture for their cattle. They have all good breeds of
+horses, are warlike, and are dreaded by the chief of Kordofan. Many
+of them have become settlers and cultivators; many Djaalein also
+have done the same, but these live chiefly on the borders of the
+Nile. The manners of Kordofan appear to be similar to those of
+Darfour, and differ little from those of Shendy.</p>
+
+<p>From Obeydha the traveller proceeds three days through an
+inhabited country, to the large village of Douma (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الدومه</span>) which is entirely inhabited by
+Djaalein Arabs; and from thence three days more to Om Ganater
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ام قناطر</span>) where duties are
+levied on the caravans which arrive there from Shendy, by an
+officer appointed by the Mek of Kordofan; they are levied in a very
+arbitrary manner; and amount to about five per cent.; the goods are
+all closely searched. On quitting Om Ganater the desert is entered,
+and on the second day the traveller arrives at a mountain called
+Abou Dhober (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابو ضبر</span>),
+standing in the midst of sands; it is inhabited by Noubas and a few
+people from Dóngola, who are in possession of deep wells, the water
+of which they sell to the passing caravans. From thence to the
+Nile, opposite to Shendy, is a desert without water of five or six
+days, but with Wadys of trees, and inhabited in the rainy season by
+Bedouins.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_483">[483]</span>Kordofan is a
+complete Oasis, being separated on all sides from the neighbouring
+countries by deserts of six days extent, except that of Shilluk,
+which is only four.</p>
+
+<p>I have reason to believe that this Itinerary is very exact. I
+might have extended it, but not with the same certainty or
+accuracy; I could occupy many pages with the most plausible
+statements respecting countries in the interior of Africa; for a
+Tekroury, if asked, is never at a loss to answer; but very few of
+them are met with who can be brought to any thing like accurate
+details. The route from Dar Saley to Shendy was confirmed to me by
+great numbers of them.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftap1">
+<p class="fthead">FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_173"></a><a href="#FNanchor_173"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>All reports agree that there is a great
+fresh-water lake in the interior of Bornou, on the west side of
+which the city of Birney is said to be built. The size of this lake
+cannot be so easily determined by hearsay, for the statements
+respecting its length vary from four to fifteen days. Several large
+torrents are reported to empty themselves into it, and it contains
+many islands. On its east side dwell idolatrous nations, the most
+numerous of which are the Voey. The name of the lake is Nou, and
+from it the country derives the name of Bornou (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">برنو</span>), or the land of Nou.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_174"></a><a href="#FNanchor_174"><span class="label">[2]</span></a>I received this Itinerary at Mekka from one
+of the Beni Hassan, a remarkably shrewd young man, who knew the
+whole of the Koran by heart. He was of the darkest brown colour,
+somewhat approaching to a copper tinge; his features were decidedly
+Arab, having nothing of the Negroe in them.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_175"></a><a href="#FNanchor_175"><span class="label">[3]</span></a>At Medina I met with another man from the
+Beni Hassan, who was well acquainted with the one above mentioned;
+he confirmed the accuracy of the Itinerary, but insisted that the
+Shary flowed from south to north.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_176"></a><a href="#FNanchor_176"><span class="label">[4]</span></a>In questioning Mussulman Negroes about
+bearings, the only mode of obtaining a satisfactory answer, is to
+ask them what country or town they had before or behind them, or on
+either side of them, when they prayed at a certain place. The
+bearing of the Kebly, or Mekka, is tolerably well known all over
+Africa, and much attended to in praying, and it forms a much more
+certain point to reckon from than either the quarter of the rising
+or setting sun.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_177"></a><a href="#FNanchor_177"><span class="label">[5]</span></a>The Aeneze, the most powerful Bedouin tribe
+of Arabia, deduce their origin from the Beni Wayl.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_178"></a><a href="#FNanchor_178"><span class="label">[6]</span></a>In the Lybian desert between Cairo and Siwah,
+and extending as far as Derne, is a potent tribe of Moggrebyn
+Bedouins, called Oulad Aly, who draw their origin from the Would
+Aly, a branch of the Aeneze tribe in the Arabian desert.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_179"></a><a href="#FNanchor_179"><span class="label">[7]</span></a>A tribe of Djaathene lives in the mountains
+of Yemen.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_180"></a><a href="#FNanchor_180"><span class="label">[8]</span></a>It should seem that the Negroes themselves,
+(not the slave-traders, who call the whole of the Black country
+Soudan,) give this name to the countries west of Bagerme.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_181"></a><a href="#FNanchor_181"><span class="label">[9]</span></a>On the east side of the Nile, between Esne
+and Edfou, is a small tribe of Arab peasants, called El Fawalé.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_182"></a><a href="#FNanchor_182"><span class="label">[10]</span></a>All the Bedouins of Soudan, of whom I have
+seen many individuals, differ entirely in colour and features from
+the aborigines, approaching more to the Arab cast: the aborigines
+are of the deepest black; but they are divided into two distinct
+races; the free Mohammedan blacks, who, though evidently of Negroe
+origin, have features not entirely Negroe; and the Negroe slaves,
+from the idolatrous countries, who have never mixed with Arabs, and
+therefore retain the true African features. The former by
+continually intermarrying with the Bedouin Arabs, their conquerors,
+have now become intimately intermixed with them; but no man of
+Bedouin extraction in any part of Africa ever marries a girl whose
+parents were not free people.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_183"></a><a href="#FNanchor_183"><span class="label">[11]</span></a>A tribe of Djeheyne still flourishes in the
+Hedjaz. At Cairo I met with a Djeheyne of Darfour, who told me that
+they were both Bedouins and husbandmen.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_484">[484]</span><a id="ap2"></a>APPENDI<span class="word-spaced8">X. N</span>o. II.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decordb width10 spaced2">
+
+<div class="appendix">
+<p class="center space-above15 space-below15"><em>Some Notices on
+the Countries of Soudan west of Darfour, with Vocabularies of the
+Borgo and Bornou Languages; collected at Cairo from Negroe
+Pilgrims, in the winter of 1816-17.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p class="drop-cap">I<span class="sc">n</span> the preceding
+Itinerary, I have mentioned Dar Szaleyh, or Seleyh, or Saley. Dar
+Szeleyh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دار صليح</span>) is the
+name used by the natives themselves. The people of Darfour and
+Kordofan give to it the name of Borgo (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بُرقو</span>). Their northern neighbours of Bornou and Fezzan,
+and the Moggrebyn merchants, call it Waday (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">واداي</span>). Similar instances of different names
+applied to the same country are not unfrequent in Soudan. Horneman
+makes the same observation. Next to Bornou and Darfour, Dar Saley
+is the most important country in eastern Soudan. It is said to be a
+flat country, with few mountains. In the rainy season, which
+usually lasts two months, large inundations are formed in many
+places, and large and rapid rivers then flow through the country.
+After the waters have subsided, deep lakes remain in various places
+filled with water the whole year round, and sufficiently spacious
+to afford a place of retreat to the hippopotami and crocodiles,
+which abound in the country.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Browne has indicated in his map several rivers to the west
+of Darfour; but I was told that none of them are large, except
+during the rains. The principal of these streams is called Abou
+Teymam, or Om Teymam, (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابو
+تيمام</span>). According to a very general custom in Soudan, of
+giving to the same river different names; it is also called Djyr
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جير</span>), which in the Egyptian
+pronunciation, sounds Gyr, and may perhaps be the <em>Gir</em> of
+Ptolemy. The name of Misselad was unknown to my informants.
+Elephants, rhinoceroses, hippopotami, giraffas, and herds of wild
+buffaloes, are very common in this country; there is another animal
+also, of the size of a cow, with large horns, called Abou Orf
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابو عُرف</span>). It is hunted by
+horsemen for its meat and skin. When attacked, it lowers its head
+to the ground, and then rushes furiously at the hunter, whom it
+often kills or severely wounds as it raises its head, and strikes
+with its horns. There is another species of horned animal, about
+the size of a calf, called <em>Djalad</em>. The mountain goat
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تيتل</span>) Taytal, (known by the
+same name in Upper Egypt) is also met with in the mountains of
+Borgo. The tree Hedjyly grows there, bearing a sweet fruit, much
+like a date. The wood, of which I have seen specimens, is hard and
+heavy. The pilgrims write their prayers and charms upon small
+boards made of it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_485">[485]</span>The kingdom of
+Borgo is divided into many provinces, the principal of which
+are—<em>Wara</em>, where the Sultan resides in a place of the same
+name; an open town consisting of houses built of mud, and huts
+constructed of brushwood: <em>Sila</em>, a large district, with a
+governor, who likewise styles himself king. <em>Runga</em>, (well
+known to Mr. Browne): <em>Dar Tama</em>; (these two have a peculiar
+language): <em>Modjo</em>, probably the same which Mr. Browne calls
+Moddago (p. 465, Ed. of 1797) and Mr. Seetzen, Metko.<a id="FNanchor_184"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_184">[1]</a> What Mr. Seetzen relates of this district,
+is perhaps applicable to the whole country of Borgo; for the
+Negroes frequently apply to the whole country, the name of any one
+of its districts; thus, for instance, I have often heard them call
+Darfour by the name of Dar Gondjara, Gondjara being a town of
+Darfour, where the learned men reside, and have their schools, in
+the vicinity of Kobbe: it is the same place, I believe, which Mr.
+Browne calls Hellet el Fokara. The district of Metko was likewise
+known to Horneman. The practice of changing the names of countries,
+rivers, and districts, is, I fancy, one of the principal causes of
+the great confusion still prevailing in the geography of Soudan.
+Other provinces of Borgo are, <em>Abasa</em>: <em>Mankary</em>, a
+large province in a south-west direction: <em>Gimur</em> (known to
+Mr. Browne by the name of <em>Gimer</em>); <em>Djyr</em>, from the
+name of which province the above mentioned river takes its
+appellation.</p>
+
+<p>The chiefs of the provinces of Borgo hold their office from the
+Sultan of Wara, and pay to him a yearly tribute, which they
+withhold, and declare themselves rebels, whenever they have a good
+opportunity. The present Sultan of Borgo is Yousef, the son of Abd
+el Kerim Saboun, who died last year. The power of Borgo is
+principally owing to this Saboun, who was a just, but very severe
+ruler, showing no mercy to any of the governors who had swerved
+from the duties of obedience; and who had condemned many of his
+subjects to suffer death during his long reign. It was this prince
+who conquered Bagerme, the chief of which country had been
+dependent upon Bornou, but had declared himself independent. The
+King of Bornou applied to Saboun to assist him in reducing the
+rebel, representing to him that the war was a religious duty,
+because the chief of Bagerme had, contrary to the laws of the
+Islam, married his own sister, and thus proved himself to be a
+pagan. Saboun marched with his army to Bagerme, and conquered the
+whole country, but kept it for himself. It is said that he there
+found a large treasure in silver, which he carried off upon two
+hundred camels; for that in Bornou and Bagerme there are many
+silver mines. Upon this occasion great numbers of the inhabitants
+of Bagerme, with their wives and children, were driven off as
+slaves; but on their arrival at Borgo, the learned men of that
+country, who form a corps as powerful, it seems, as the Ulemas at
+Constantinople, represented to Saboun, that as they were
+Mahommedans, it was unjust to reduce them to slavery. They were
+then restored to liberty, and many of them returned: others
+remained voluntarily at Borgo, where they continue to earn a good
+livelihood by their art of giving the blue dye to cottons; this dye
+is produced from an indigenous<span class="pagenum" id="Page_486">[486]</span> plant, resembling indigo, and which is said
+to be preferable to the indigo of Egypt. Both are known by the same
+name of Nili.</p>
+
+<p>The Sultan of <em>Wara</em>, or of <em>Fasher</em>, as he is
+likewise called (Fasher being a term applied to the open place
+where he gives audience) has among his troops many Negroes, some of
+whom are still pagans: other pagans are likewise settled in almost
+every town of Borgo. The Sultan leaves his residence every Friday
+after prayers,<a id="FNanchor_185"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_185">[2]</a>
+and it is an established custom, that if any one has to complain of
+oppression from the Sultan’s officers, he runs about on the plain
+like a mad man; until the Sultan seeing him, sends for him, and
+listens to his story.</p>
+
+<p>Among the Sultan’s troops are a few armed with fire-locks, and
+he has several small guns, that have lately been given to him by
+the Bey of Tripoli. His principal strength consists in horsemen,
+many of whom are clad in coats of mail, and are well mounted, the
+horses of that country being reported to be of the best breed.</p>
+
+<p>The country of Bornou is inhabited by many Arab tribes, who
+speak only Arabic, and are much fairer than the natives. Among them
+are the Djeheyne (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جهينه</span>) and
+Khozem (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خزام</span>), both of whom
+are from Arabia, and famed in Arabian history. Many of the Khozems
+are said to be Sherifs. To these Arab tribes, other indigenous
+Negroe Bedouin tribes are united; who, after the rainy season is
+over, when the ponds in the desert are dried up, pitch their tents
+and pasture their flocks in the cultivated country among the
+villages, permission being granted them by the Sultan, who levies
+heavy duties upon them, paid in cows, camels, and sheep. Among the
+Negroe tribes, is the great tribe of Fellata, of whom those who
+dwell in the neighbourhood of Bornou are Musselmans; while others
+of the same tribe, who live farther west, are still pagan. This
+nation of Fellata appears to be in great strength throughout
+Soudan: they have spread across the whole continent, and I saw one
+of them at Mekka, who told me that his encampment, when he left it,
+was in the neighbourhood of Timbuctou. The Fellata have attacked
+and pillaged both Bornou and Kashna, and the latter town is said to
+be at present half ruined. They are mostly horsemen. They fight
+with poisoned arrows, as do in general all the pagan tribes of this
+part of Soudan; the arrow is short, and of iron; the smallest
+scratch with it causes the body to swell, and is infallibly mortal,
+unless counteracted by an antidote, known amongst the natives. This
+antidote is prepared from a small worm, called at Borgo and
+Bagerme, Kodongo, which is dried and reduced to powder. The wound
+is rubbed with the powder, and some of it is eaten. Whenever the
+soldiers of Borgo go to war, they are furnished with a small box of
+this powder. The Borgo soldiers, who are pagan Negroes, are armed
+with the same poisoned arrows.</p>
+
+<p>The pagan Negroe nations are from ten to fifteen days journey
+distant from Borgo: and the people of the latter country are
+continually making inroads upon them to carry off slaves. The most
+noted of these pagan countries<a id="FNanchor_186"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_186">[3]</a>
+are Dargulla, Benda, Djenke, Yemyem, and Ola,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_487">[487]</span> which is the farthest off. Some of the
+pagan nations are tributary to the King of Borgo, who keeps an
+officer stationed in their territory to receive the tribute; which
+is paid in copper and slaves. In return for this tribute, they are
+exempted from all open attacks from the Moslims, although they are
+constantly suffering from the secret inroads of Borgo robbers.
+Merchants who wish to purchase slaves, repair into these pagan
+countries, and address themselves to the Borgo officers stationed
+there. The officer sends to the chiefs of the country, and native
+merchants, who carry to him for sale either their own slaves
+acquired in war, (for the Borgo officers constantly stir up war
+amongst them) or such as are adjudged to them by the law (for the
+smallest trespasses are punished by captivity). The people
+themselves also often steal the children of their neighbours, or if
+they have a large family, sell their own.</p>
+
+<p>The slaves are bought from the native traders in presence of the
+officer, in exchange for Dhourra, Dokhen, and cows. The pagan
+natives cultivate few fields, but are extremely fond of Dhourra.
+They have great abundance of sheep and goats, but very few cows:
+one sack of Dhourra, making a quarter of a camel’s load, or about
+one cwt. is equal in value to a slave; a cow is valued at four
+slaves. The Borgo merchants in returning to their country, tie the
+slaves they have purchased to a long iron chain, passed round the
+neck of every one of them, from twenty to thirty being thus tied
+one behind the other; nor is the chain taken off until they reach
+Borgo. The provinces of this kingdom are full of slaves: some are
+to be met with in every house; and they are said to be very
+industrious, which is ascribed to their change of religion, most of
+them being converted to Islamism soon after their arrival. They
+manufacture copper, and make earthern-ware and pipe-heads. They
+work also in leather. My informants, who had never been in the
+pagan countries, told me from hear-say, that they are throughout
+mountainous, and that several very large rivers flow through them,
+which are never dry. The butter-tree grows there; and there is
+abundance of copper.</p>
+
+<p>Fezzan traders sometimes repair in caravans to Borgo, which they
+call <em>Waday</em>. Though the result of my inquiries among the
+Negroe pilgrims was, that the caravans were not regular, there can
+be no doubt as to the existence of the route: as I have seen a
+Borgo pilgrim who came by way of Fezzan and Tripoli to Cairo. But
+although the Fezzan traders do sometimes cross this desert, their
+trade between Fezzan and Borgo is principally in the hands of the
+Tibbou Bedouins, who occupy the intervening waste. Hornemann makes
+no mention of the caravans, though he speaks of the country of
+Wadey, p. 134; and he says that he met a man from Siout, who had
+come by Darfour, Borgo, and Bagerme to Fezzan.</p>
+
+<p>My informer gave me the following route from Borgo to Fezzan,
+which seems to be of some importance, as shewing that the position
+of Bornou, as laid down in the last maps, is much too far to the
+east. From Borgo this caravan proceeded five days journey, over a
+flat desert of sand, to the well Marmar (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مرمر</span>), thence</p>
+
+<p>Three days journey over the same sandy plain to the well Abou
+Doum (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابو دوم</span>), where a few
+date trees grow: thence</p>
+
+<p>Two days journey across low hills to the well Bir Hadjara
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بير حجارة</span>), with good water;
+thence</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_488">[488]</span>Four days
+journey over a flat desert to the place called Bahr (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بحر</span>), a low ground, where the travellers
+dig pits in the sand, and find water in great plenty. It is called
+Bahr, because in the rainy season the ground is overflowed:
+thence</p>
+
+<p>Three days journey to the well of Dirky (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دركي</span>), at the entrance into the mountains of
+Dirky. Dirky is the name of a strong tribe of Tibbou, who inhabit
+these mountains, but whose principal abode is at several days
+journey west of the road. Thence to Fezzan the country is almost
+without interruption mountainous. In the vallies of these mountains
+grow a few date trees and Doums; the Tarfa, or tamarisk, is also
+very common, and affords food to the camels of the caravan. From
+Dirky they proceed two days journey to the well in the mountain,
+called Byr Akheybesh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بير
+اخيبش</span>): thence</p>
+
+<p>Five days journey, mostly of mountainous road, to the well Woyk
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ويق</span>).</p>
+
+<p>Three days to the well Sarfaya (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">صرفاية</span>).</p>
+
+<p>Four days journey to the mountains called Hedjar es Soud,
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حجار السود</span>) or the black
+rocks, so called from their colour, and which are a part of the
+above mentioned chain. At the entrance of them lies the well called
+Byr el Asoad (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بر الاسود</span>),
+where the caravans usually stop a few days. From thence in crossing
+the mountains, the traveller comes, after</p>
+
+<p>Five days journey to a well, the name of which my informant had
+forgotten. Some date trees grow there: from thence</p>
+
+<p>Seven days journey to El Boeyra (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بويره</span>) a small well, which is likewise called
+<em>Abo</em>. I suspect that several of these wells have different
+names, and that the northern Arab traders apply to them Arabic
+names, in addition to those they receive from the native Tibbous.
+At this well the mountains terminate, and the road descends again
+into a level plain. The well of <em>Boeyra</em> or <em>Abo</em>, is
+situated within the country of Tibertz, a large district of that
+name, where the strongest tribe of the Tibbou reside. From hence
+the road leads over the plain</p>
+
+<p>Six days journey to Katroun (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قطرون</span>), the first village within the territory of
+Fezzan, which is likewise called <em>Heleit el Morabetein</em>
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حلة المُرابطين</span>), or the
+village of the learned men. Cultivated districts are passed from
+thence to Morzouk (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مرزوق</span>),
+which is at the distance of two or three days journey. In all,
+fifty-two days journey from Borgo to Morzouk: but as the rate of
+march is slow, and the caravans make considerable halts at several
+of the wells, they usually occupy sixty or seventy days in the
+journey.</p>
+
+<p>During this march, Bagerme, Bahr el Ghazal, and Bornou, are to
+the west of the road. I have been constantly assured that Bornou is
+more to the westward than due north of Bagerme, which agrees
+likewise with what Hornemann heard at Fezzan; namely, that Bornou
+lies south of Fezzan. On the road just described, no river or lake
+is to be met with except during the rainy season.<a id="FNanchor_187"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_187">[4]</a> The water found in the wells is every
+where sweet: and many of them are very deep, and cased with stone,
+the labour, it is said, of Djân or demons.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_489">[489]</span> In the winter time rain water is met with
+in the torrents and ponds. The wells are the property of different
+tribes of the Tibbou nation, who are idolaters, and do not speak
+Arabic. Their encampments are met with in the neighbourhood of the
+wells, and the caravans in passing pay to them some trifling
+passage duties. The road is safe from any open attacks, as the
+Fezzan traders are well armed with firelocks, a weapon unknown to
+the Tibbou, but they are obliged to be upon constant guard against
+nightly robbers. In the most barren parts of the sandy desert, the
+camels find shrubs or herbs to feed upon, and the travellers some
+brushwood to light their evening fires.</p>
+
+<p>It seems that the current prices of articles used in the slave
+trade at Fezzan, bear the same proportion to those at Waday or
+Borgo, as do those of Sennaar, when compared with those of Upper
+Egypt. A camel at Waday is worth seven or eight dollars, which at
+Fezzan costs from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars. A slave boy
+at Fezzan is worth from forty to fifty dollars, and at Waday from
+ten to twelve dollars.</p>
+
+<p>The Bey of Tripoly, as chief of Fezzan, sends presents to the
+Sultan of Borgo, and receives others in return. From Dar Saley to
+Bagerme are 15 days journey, and as many from Bagerme to Bornou,
+but there is a shorter road from Dar Saley to Bornou, which leads
+in 20 days to that place.</p>
+
+<p>I should observe here, that the statement of distances in Soudan
+is subject to great uncertainties, because the Negroes often reckon
+the distance only to the confines of the country, and not to the
+principal town; thus for instance, they will state the distance of
+Bornou from Dar Saley, without specifying whether it is Birney, the
+capital of Bornou, or only as far as the frontier.</p>
+
+<p>The native of Bornou who gave me the annexed vocabulary, was a
+man upon whose general information no great reliance could be
+placed. However, he absolutely denied the existence of any lake in
+his country—such as is mentioned in the preceding itinerary. He
+stated that the large river Tsad (the same mentioned by Hornemann
+under the name of Zad: though I strongly question his information
+as to its identity with the Joliba) flows through Bornou at a short
+distance from the capital of Birney. Its source was unknown to him.
+But at the time of the inundation, which is as regular there as in
+Egypt, it flows with great impetuosity. A female slave, richly
+dressed, is on this solemn occasion thrown into the stream by order
+of the king.</p>
+
+<p>The river Shary was well known to this man, although he had
+never seen it; he called it the river of Bagerme.</p>
+
+<hr class="decordb width10 spaced2">
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="sc">Whilst</span> British philanthropy
+is directed towards the abolition of the slave trade in the west of
+Africa, the eager pursuit of gain has opened in the eastern parts
+of that continent a new channel, by which the captive Negroes are
+carried into foreign countries, never to see their homes again. In
+the summer of 1816, a caravan arrived at Cairo from Augila, with
+above<span class="pagenum" id="Page_490">[490]</span> three hundred
+slaves procured from Waday or Borgo. The Arabs of Augila seeing
+that the Fezzan traders attempted sometimes a direct communication
+with Borgo, were of opinion that a road thither might be found
+likewise from Augila, southwards across the desert; and in 1811,
+they for the first time tried that journey. They reached Borgo, but
+upon their return, having no guides, they lost the road, and a
+great number of them, as well as the greater part of the slaves
+they had with them, died of thirst. In 1813 they made a fresh
+attempt, as unsuccessful as the former. Many of them died in the
+desert before they reached Waday; those who arrived there might
+have gone back by Fezzan, but they were afraid of the jealousy of
+the Fezzan traders, and trusting their fortunes to the same fatal
+road, very few found their way back to Augila. Such however is the
+determined spirit of the slave-trader, and the energy and
+enterprize of these people, that they were not discouraged by these
+failures. In 1814 a party of Augila Arabs set out again on the same
+road; reached Waday, and traced back their way to their own town,
+when the great profits which they had derived from the sale of
+their slaves made them forget all the dangers they had experienced,
+and the trade no doubt will be continued.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftap2">
+<p class="fthead">FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_184"></a><a href="#FNanchor_184"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>Vide Supplement to the Encyclopædia
+Britannica, voce Africa.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_185"></a><a href="#FNanchor_185"><span class="label">[2]</span></a>The Sultan of Bornou is never seen but on
+feast days.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_186"></a><a href="#FNanchor_186"><span class="label">[3]</span></a>The name of Wangara, and the existence of any
+great inland sea, were unknown to my informers.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_187"></a><a href="#FNanchor_187"><span class="label">[4]</span></a>The Bornou river probably takes its rise in
+the mountains described in the foregoing route.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h3 class="pb"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_491">[491]</span>VOCABULARIES OF THE BORGO AND BORNOU
+LANGUAGES.</h3>
+
+<p class="center"><em>Obs.</em> The words marked with A. are
+Arabic, or of Arabic origin.</p>
+
+<hr class="decordb width10 spaced2">
+
+<table class="tdl-mid less" id="t491">
+<colgroup>
+<col class="width10">
+<col class="width10">
+<col class="width10">
+</colgroup>
+
+<thead>
+<tr>
+<th><em>English.</em>
+</th>
+<th><em>Language of Waday, Borgo, or Dar Saley.</em>
+</th>
+<th><em>Bornou.</em>
+</th>
+</tr>
+</thead>
+
+<tbody>
+<tr>
+<td>Head</td>
+<td>Kidjy</td>
+<td>Kela</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hair</td>
+<td>Soufa (Souf, in Arabic, means wool)</td>
+<td>Kondoly</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Eye</td>
+<td>Kapak</td>
+<td>Shim</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Forehead</td>
+<td>—</td>
+<td>Angoum</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nose</td>
+<td>Kharsouma, A.</td>
+<td>Kensa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cheek</td>
+<td>Ghambilanak</td>
+<td>Fyly</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Beard</td>
+<td>Gamur</td>
+<td>on the cheek, Gyga under the chin, Andjedy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mustachios</td>
+<td colspan="2">They have no word for these, as they are close
+shaved.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lips</td>
+<td>—</td>
+<td>Kadjéba</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mouth</td>
+<td>Kana</td>
+<td>Djy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Teeth</td>
+<td>Saateni</td>
+<td>Tim̄y</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Tongue</td>
+<td>Dalmek</td>
+<td>Telam̄</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ears</td>
+<td>Kozah</td>
+<td>Somou</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Neck</td>
+<td>Bitik</td>
+<td>Dabbou</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Breasts</td>
+<td>Kosso</td>
+<td>Gandjy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Teats</td>
+<td>Angoun</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Shoulder</td>
+<td>Korkoro</td>
+<td>Kabana</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Arm</td>
+<td>Galma</td>
+<td>Bȳbe</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hand</td>
+<td>Kara</td>
+<td>Mousko</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Fingers</td>
+<td>Nyngar Missy</td>
+<td>Kolnado, A?</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Nails</td>
+<td>Dodjay</td>
+<td>Gyrgane</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Belly</td>
+<td>Tabok</td>
+<td>Soro</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Loins</td>
+<td>Gondini</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Heart</td>
+<td>Goly</td>
+<td>Kāgergy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Entrails</td>
+<td>Konny</td>
+<td>Kālem</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bones</td>
+<td>Gandjig</td>
+<td>Sila</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Liver</td>
+<td>—</td>
+<td>Kemāren</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Pudenda hom.</td>
+<td>Gomlou</td>
+<td>Kemkarem</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>— fem.</td>
+<td>Ganyak</td>
+<td>Kissi Kanarem</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bottom</td>
+<td>Dober, A.</td>
+<td>Ourarem</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Leg</td>
+<td>Djah</td>
+<td>Sakal</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Foot</td>
+<td>Djastongoly</td>
+<td>Pelli Shybeh</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Flesh</td>
+<td>Nȳo</td>
+<td>Da</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Skin</td>
+<td>Dou</td>
+<td>Katyge</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Blood</td>
+<td>Ary</td>
+<td>Bou</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Father</td>
+<td>Tonouny</td>
+<td>Abāk, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mother</td>
+<td>Tinyng</td>
+<td>Yany</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Son</td>
+<td>Kalak</td>
+<td>Tata</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Daughter or girl</td>
+<td>Kakalak</td>
+<td>Pyro</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Brother</td>
+<td>Mirr</td>
+<td>Kerāmy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sister</td>
+<td>Mokk</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Uncle, by the father</td>
+<td>Manmāk</td>
+<td>Babany</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ditto by the mother</td>
+<td>Mannak</td>
+<td>Rabbany</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Grand-father</td>
+<td>Mongola</td>
+<td>Kagany</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>First Cousin</td>
+<td>Myrāk</td>
+<td>Kagansytilo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Slave, sing.</td>
+<td>Borik</td>
+<td>Kalȳa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Slave, plur.</td>
+<td>Bourto</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Female Slave, sin.</td>
+<td>Madjek</td>
+<td>Kyr</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ditto, plur.</td>
+<td>Mayto</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The world</td>
+<td>Donya, A.</td>
+<td>Donya, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Heaven</td>
+<td>Sema, A.</td>
+<td>Pery</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>God</td>
+<td>Kalak</td>
+<td>Kamande</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>likewise Allah, A.</td>
+<td>likewise Allah, A</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Prophet</td>
+<td>Naby, A.</td>
+<td>Naby, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Angels</td>
+<td>Melāyke, A.</td>
+<td>Melayke, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Devil</td>
+<td>Sheytaan, A.</td>
+<td>Sheytaan, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Demon</td>
+<td>Djan, A.</td>
+<td>Djen, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sun</td>
+<td>Anyk</td>
+<td>Konkal</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Moon</td>
+<td>Aȳk</td>
+<td>Kōmbal</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Stars</td>
+<td>Meniet</td>
+<td>Shilluga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Day</td>
+<td>Dealka</td>
+<td>Kaōō</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Night</td>
+<td>Kosonga</td>
+<td>Boune</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dawn</td>
+<td>Fedjer, A.</td>
+<td>Sebeh, A.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Evening</td>
+<td>Moghreb, A.</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Noon</td>
+<td>Dhoher, A.</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Shade</td>
+<td>Andjelo</td>
+<td>Kābya</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Rain</td>
+<td>Andjy</td>
+<td>Dolāya</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lightning</td>
+<td>Māltery</td>
+<td>Tsolty</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Thunder</td>
+<td>Dortery</td>
+<td>Gyrdjy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Fire</td>
+<td>Wossyk</td>
+<td>Kanou</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td><span class="pagenum" id="Page_492">[492]</span>Clouds</td>
+<td>Abouya</td>
+<td>Pagāou</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wind</td>
+<td>Awlek</td>
+<td>Kerāwa</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Calm</td>
+<td>Kebȳa</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The Earth</td>
+<td>Berr, A.</td>
+<td>Tsedy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>The Ground</td>
+<td>Dordjeh</td>
+<td>Kolgoun</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sand</td>
+<td>Alāle</td>
+<td>Kary</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Water</td>
+<td>Andjy (like rain)</td>
+<td>Angy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Stone</td>
+<td>Koduk</td>
+<td>Ko</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mountain</td>
+<td>Koduk</td>
+<td>Ko</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Free</td>
+<td>Songou</td>
+<td>Kesgā</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wood</td>
+<td>Songou</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Grass or plants</td>
+<td>Lowa</td>
+<td>Kadjem</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Date tree</td>
+<td>Sondo</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sea</td>
+<td>No word for it</td>
+<td>No word for it</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>River</td>
+<td>Bettak</td>
+<td>Kamadogo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wady (torrent or valley)</td>
+<td>Bettak</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>A Cow</td>
+<td>Daȳg</td>
+<td>Faȳeh</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cows</td>
+<td>Daa-y</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bull</td>
+<td>Mar</td>
+<td>Ganymou</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bulls</td>
+<td>Marsha</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Calf</td>
+<td>Dongolak</td>
+<td>Kona</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Camel</td>
+<td>Torbok</td>
+<td>Kalgamou</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Camels</td>
+<td>Tormbosy</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Buffaloe</td>
+<td>Shem</td>
+<td>Gerān</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Sheep</td>
+<td>Mindago</td>
+<td>Timy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>plural, Mundji</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Goat</td>
+<td>Djow,</td>
+<td>Katy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td>plural, Djosy</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Jack-ass</td>
+<td>Adyk</td>
+<td>Koro</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Horse</td>
+<td>Barak Mar</td>
+<td>By</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mare</td>
+<td>Barak Madjek</td>
+<td>Ferr</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Mule</td>
+<td>Baghal, A.</td>
+<td>No mule in the country.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dog</td>
+<td>Nyouk</td>
+<td>Kiry</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Antelope</td>
+<td>Lar</td>
+<td>Ingary</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hyæna</td>
+<td>Morfan or Dabak</td>
+<td>Bolso</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Lion</td>
+<td>Amarak</td>
+<td>Gorgoly</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Tiger</td>
+<td>Tomory</td>
+<td>Zarerma</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Monkey</td>
+<td>Gorr</td>
+<td>Dagyl</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Elephant</td>
+<td>Koukoty</td>
+<td>Kemāgen</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Hippopotamus</td>
+<td>Seleen</td>
+<td>Engōrodo</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Rhinoceros</td>
+<td>Omkorn, A.</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Crocodile</td>
+<td>Temsah, A.</td>
+<td>Karam</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Fish</td>
+<td>Hout, A.</td>
+<td>Bony</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Serpent</td>
+<td>Todjoun</td>
+<td>Kady</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Giraffa</td>
+<td>Efar</td>
+<td>Kenzar</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bird</td>
+<td>Kosh Kashy</td>
+<td>Ongoda</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Birds</td>
+<td>Alyl</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Ostrich</td>
+<td>Adak</td>
+<td>Kergyga</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Locusts</td>
+<td>Adak</td>
+<td>Gaby</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Grain in general</td>
+<td>Asch</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Corn</td>
+<td>Kamh, A.</td>
+<td>Elgamé</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dhourra, mais</td>
+<td>Koshmo</td>
+<td>Kabely</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>— Egyptian</td>
+<td>—</td>
+<td>Misreky</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Dokhen</td>
+<td>Kelawa</td>
+<td>Argym</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Barley</td>
+<td>Shayr, A.</td>
+<td>None in the country</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Rice</td>
+<td>Ror, A.</td>
+<td>Gargamy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Tobacco</td>
+<td>Tāba</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Snuff</td>
+<td>—</td>
+<td>Tabah</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Onions</td>
+<td>Basal, A.</td>
+<td>Lebassar</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Garlick (Hibiscus)</td>
+<td>Toum, A.</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bamye, raw</td>
+<td>Goroun</td>
+<td>Kabalesou</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>— dish of it</td>
+<td>Soo</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Melookhye</td>
+<td>—</td>
+<td>Gam</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cucumbers</td>
+<td>Saboro</td>
+<td>—</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Gourds</td>
+<td>Anka</td>
+<td>Komou</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Water Melons</td>
+<td>Andadjy</td>
+<td>Faly</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Cotton</td>
+<td>Moryo</td>
+<td>Kalokosem</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Wool</td>
+<td>Sool, A.</td>
+<td>Kondoly</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Butter</td>
+<td>Tesra</td>
+<td>Kendafy</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Milk</td>
+<td>Sila</td>
+<td>Ky-am</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Salt</td>
+<td>Odja</td>
+<td>Mareda (which is extracted from certain herbs.)</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>Bread</td>
+<td>—</td>
+<td>Tabesca</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h2><span class="pagenum" id="Page_493">[493]</span><a id="ap3"></a>APPENDI<span class="word-spaced8">X. N</span>o. III.</h2>
+
+<hr class="decordb width10 spaced2">
+
+<p class="hang1 space-above15 space-below15"><em>Translation of the
+Notices on Nubia contained in Makrizi’s<a id="FNanchor_188"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_188">[1]</a> History and Description of Egypt, called
+El Khetat, &amp;c. with Notes, written at Cairo, Dec. 1816, and
+Jan. 1817.</em>
+</p>
+
+<div class="appendix">
+<p class="drop-cap">T<span class="sc">he</span> following extracts
+are made from the first volume of this excellent work, which is
+already too well known in Europe, to be farther described here.
+They form about one hundredth part of the whole work. In my opinion
+the information here given is more detailed, accurate, and
+satisfactory, with regard to Nubia, than that of any other Arabian
+geographer or historian. The translation is made from a good MS.
+copy in my possession, which I compared with two other copies
+belonging to different libraries of Cairo. The book itself is
+become scarce in Egypt, and five copies of it only exist at present
+at Cairo.</p>
+
+<p>In the notes I have subjoined extracts from other Arabic authors
+in my possession.</p>
+
+<p class="center space-above15 space-below1"><em>Description of the
+Cataracts, and Notices concerning the Noubas, extracted by Macrizi
+from Selym el Assouany.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>Macrizi gives the explanation of the term Djandal (cataract),
+which word has given rise to the erroneous name of the cataract of
+Djanadel, applied to the cataract of Wady Halfa in
+Nubia.<a id="FNanchor_189"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_189">[2]</a> He then continues:</p>
+
+<p>Ibn Selym el Assouany, in his book entitled “Notices on Nouba,
+Mokra, Aloa, El Bedja, and the Nile,” relates as follows: The first
+city of Nouba is called El Kaszer (Philæ), five miles distant from
+Assouan; the last fortified place of the Moslims is the island of
+Belak, one mile distant from this city of the Nouba. From Assouan
+to Belak are several cataracts, in passing which ships require the
+guidance of persons who know the passage; these are generally
+fishermen. The cataracts are abrupt, with rocks advancing into the
+river; and the fall of the water produces a deep and hoarse murmur,
+which is heard from a great distance. At the city of El Kaszer is a
+garrisoned post, which forms a gate into the country of the Nouba.
+From this post to the first cataracts of Nouba is a ten days
+journey.<a id="FNanchor_190"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_190">[3]</a></p>
+
+<p>The Moslims freely frequent this district. In the hither part of
+it they are possessed of landed property, and trade into the higher
+country, where some of them are domiciliated. None of them speak
+Arabic fluently. The district is narrow and mountainous. The Nile
+is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_494">[494]</span> confined by the
+rocks of the desert, and the villages are at considerable distances
+from one another on both banks. The trees are the date and the
+Mokel.<a id="FNanchor_191"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_191">[4]</a> The higher parts are
+broader than those which are lower down, and the vine is there
+cultivated. There is no natural irrigation of the soil, from its
+being too elevated. The inhabitants sow by the <em>fedan</em>, or
+two and three <em>fedans</em>,<a id="FNanchor_192"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_192">[5]</a>
+and cows are employed to raise the water from the river by means of
+water-wheels. Wheat is scarce among them; barley and <em>selt</em>
+are more abundant.<a id="FNanchor_193"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_193">[6]</a>
+As their soil is so confined, they cultivate it a second
+time.<a id="FNanchor_194"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_194">[7]</a> In the summer (after
+having renewed the soil with dung and earth) they then sow Dokhen,
+Dhourra, Djawars,<a id="FNanchor_195"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_195">[8]</a>
+Sesamum and Loubya. In this district lies Bedjrash, the town of the
+chief of Merys,<a id="FNanchor_196"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_196">[9]</a>
+and the castle of Ibrim, and another smaller castle, with a harbour
+called Addoa, which is said to have been the native place of Lokmat
+and Jonas.<a id="FNanchor_197"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_197">[10]</a></p>
+
+<p>A wonderful ruin (<em>Birbe</em>) is seen here. In this district
+resides a governor named by the great chief of the Noubas, who has
+the title of Lord of the Mountain, and is one of their principal
+governors, because he is so near the territory of the Moslims.
+Whenever any Moslim travels to this country, and has a stock of
+merchandize either for sale, or as a present to the king or
+governor, the latter receives it all, and returns the value in
+slaves; for no one, whether Moslim or not, is ever permitted to
+present himself in person to the king.</p>
+
+<p>On the first cataract of Nouba lies the city called
+<em>Takoa</em>,<a id="FNanchor_198"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_198">[11]</a> on a level ground, where the boats of the Nouba
+ascending from the Kaszer usually stop. The boats dare not pass
+this village, and no Moslim, nor any other person, dare ascend the
+river further up, without permission from the Lord of the Mountain.
+From hence to the upper <em>Maks</em> are six days
+journey.<a id="FNanchor_199"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_199">[12]</a> Cataracts continue the whole way up. These are
+the worst parts of Nouba which I have seen, owing to the difficulty
+and narrowness of the ground, and the fatiguing road. The river is
+constantly interrupted by rapid falls and projecting mountains, so
+that it is precipitated down the rocks, and is in some places not
+above fifty peeks (cubits) wide from one bank to the other.</p>
+
+<p>The country abounds in high mountains, narrow passes, and roads
+along which you cannot proceed mounted, and if weak, you will in
+vain attempt to walk.<a id="FNanchor_200"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_200">[13]</a> These mountains are the strong holds of the
+Noubas, and among them the inhabitants of the districts bordering
+on the Moslim country take refuge. A few date trees, and some poor
+fields are found on the islands. The principal food of the
+inhabitants is fish, with the fat of which they anoint<span class="pagenum" id="Page_495">[495]</span> their bodies. The district
+belongs to the territory of Merys; and is governed by the Lord of
+the Mountain. The garrison in the Upper Maks is so rigorously
+governed by an officer named by the great chief of Nouba, that when
+the great chief himself passes that way, the governor stands by his
+side, and prevents the people from applying to him, until they have
+recourse to his son, or his vizier, or inferior
+officers.<a id="FNanchor_201"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_201">[14]</a></p>
+
+<p>No money or dinars are here current: these are only used in
+traffic with the Moslims below the cataracts; above them they are
+unacquainted with buying or selling. Their trade is limited to
+mutual exchanges of cattle, slaves, camels, iron and grain. No one
+passes onward without the king’s permission; disobedience to this
+order is punished with death. On account of this system of
+prohibition, no intelligence is ever communicated of their
+movements, and the soldiers attack the Bedouins of the country and
+others without any previous alarm. In this part of the Nile is
+found the Sembad,<a id="FNanchor_202"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_202">[15]</a> which is used in cutting precious stones. The
+natives dive for it, and easily distinguish it from other stones;
+but in case of doubt they blow upon it, and the genuine Sembad is
+immediately covered with moisture.</p>
+
+<p>Between this post and the city of Say, are some cataracts. Say
+is the last place where they are found. It is the residence of a
+Bishop, and it contains an ancient ruin.<a id="FNanchor_203"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_203">[16]</a> Then follows the district of
+<em>Saklouda</em>, which means “The Seven Governors.”<a id="FNanchor_204"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_204">[17]</a> The soil resembles that of the district
+bordering upon the Muslim country, in its alternate width and
+contraction: as well as in its producing dates and grapes of
+different sorts, and the tree <em>Mokel</em>. There are likewise
+some cotton trees, from the produce of which they make coarse
+shirts—and some olive trees. The governor of this district is
+subjected to the great chief, and has some minor chiefs under him.
+Here lies the castle of <em>Astanoun</em>, where the third cataract
+begins. This is the most difficult and longest of them all, because
+the mountain on the east projects far into the river. The water is
+here precipitated through three gates or passes, and when the water
+is low, through two. It makes a powerful noise, and the spectator
+is astonished at seeing it curl down from the top of the mountain.
+To the south of it is a bed of stones in the river, three
+baryd<a id="FNanchor_205"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_205">[18]</a> in length as far as the
+city of Yosto,<a id="FNanchor_206"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_206">[19]</a> which is the last of Merys, and the beginning
+of the country of Mokra. From this place to the frontiers of the
+Moslim country, the inhabitants speak the Merysy language; and this
+is the best district belonging to their king.</p>
+
+<p>Then follows the district of Bakou,<a id="FNanchor_207"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_207">[20]</a> which means “The Wonder,” and derives its
+name from its beauty. I have seen no where on the Nile more
+extended banks: the river flows from east to west; the country is
+nearly five days journey in breadth; there are many islands,
+between which flow the branches of the river through a fertile soil
+where are cities, touching each other, consisting of fine
+buildings. Here also are pigeon-houses.<a id="FNanchor_208"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_208">[21]</a> Plenty of cattle<span class="pagenum" id="Page_496">[496]</span> and flocks are found here, which form the
+principal stock of provisions for the towns of Nouba. Among the
+birds of this country are the Taghtit, the Nouby<a id="FNanchor_209"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_209">[22]</a> parrots, and others of equal beauty. The
+great chief makes this province his principal residence. “I was
+once,” says Selim el Assouany, “in company with this chief, and we
+passed along narrow canals shaded by trees growing on both banks.
+It is said that crocodiles never hurt people in this country, and I
+have seen persons swim across many of the branches of the
+river.”<a id="FNanchor_210"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_210">[23]</a></p>
+
+<p>Next follows Sefdykal,<a id="FNanchor_211"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_211">[24]</a> a district of narrow banks, similar to the
+lower end of the country. Here are fine islands, and at the
+distance of less than two days journey, about thirty cities,
+containing good buildings, with churches and monasteries. Here grow
+dates and vines; there are gardens and fields, with large meadows,
+in which live camels of a reddish colour and noble race. The great
+chief frequently comes here, because, on the south, this district
+borders upon Dóngola, their (principal) city and seat of
+government. From Dóngola to Assouan are fifty days
+journey.<a id="FNanchor_212"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_212">[25]</a> Ibn Selim then continues to describe Dóngola,
+and says, that they make the ceilings of their sitting rooms of the
+wood of the Sant and Sadj trees,<a id="FNanchor_213"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_213">[26]</a> the latter of which are brought down by the
+Nile in large smoothed beams, but nobody knows from whence they
+come. “I have myself,” says Selim, “seen traces of an Arabic
+origin<a id="FNanchor_214"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_214">[27]</a> on several of them.” The
+distance from Dóngola to the nearest limits of Aloa, is greater
+than that from Dóngola to Assouan.<a id="FNanchor_215"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_215">[28]</a> The number of cities, and villages, and
+islands, and cattle, and date-trees, and Mokel trees, and fields,
+and vine plantations, met with in this district, is double of what
+is on the side towards the Moslim dominions. In these parts are
+large islands, several days in length, mountains inhabited by wild
+beasts and lions, and tracts where the traveller is liable to
+suffer from thirst. The Nile takes a turn for many days in the
+direction from sun rise to sun set, and the person who ascends
+travels in the same direction as the one who descends the
+river.<a id="FNanchor_216"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_216">[29]</a> It is in these quarters
+that the turnings of the Nile lead towards the mines called Shenka,
+at a place named Shenkyr,<a id="FNanchor_217"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_217">[30]</a> from whence issued El Aoury, who conquered
+these countries, till he met his ultimate fate. Many hippopotami
+are found here. From these<span class="pagenum" id="Page_497">[497]</span> parts are roads leading to Souakin, and
+Nadha,<a id="FNanchor_218"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_218">[31]</a> and Dahlak, and the
+islands of the sea, whither those of Beni Omeya who escaped, fled,
+and thence crossed over into Nubia.<a id="FNanchor_219"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_219">[32]</a> People of Bedja, also called Zenafedj,
+dwell here, who emigrated in ancient times into the country of
+Nouba, and settled there. They pasture alone by themselves, have
+their own language, and do not intermix with the Noubas, nor do
+they live in their villages; but they have a chief appointed by the
+Noubas.</p>
+
+<p class="center space-above15 space-below1"><em>Description by
+Selim el Assouany of the Branches of the Nile in the Country of
+Aloa, and of the People who live on their Banks.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>It is to be noticed that the Noubas and the Mokras are two
+different races, with two different languages,<a id="FNanchor_220"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_220">[33]</a> and both living on the Nile. The Noubas
+are the Merys who border on the Moslemin country, and from their
+frontier to Assouan is a distance of five miles.<a id="FNanchor_221"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_221">[34]</a> It is said that Salha, the forefather of
+the Noubas, and Mokry, the forefather of the Mokras, were natives
+of Yemen; and likewise, that the Noubas and Mokry are descended
+from Hemyar. The greater part of the genealogists state them to be
+the descendants of Ham, the son of Noah. Before the Christian
+creed, the Noubas and Mokras were often at war with each other. The
+first place of Mokra<a id="FNanchor_222"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_222">[35]</a> is the city of Tafa,<a id="FNanchor_223"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_223">[36]</a> one day’s journey from Assouan, and the
+city of their king is Bedjrash, less than ten days journey from
+Assouan. It is said that Moses (may God’s mercy be with him!) made
+a hostile incursion into this country, before he received the call
+as a prophet in the time of Pharao, and destroyed Tafa. They were
+then Sabeans, adoring stars, to which they had erected idols. After
+this all the Noubas and Mokras became Christians, and the city of
+Dóngola is (or became) the seat of their government.</p>
+
+<p>The first place of the country of Aloa is Aboale,<a id="FNanchor_224"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_224">[37]</a> a city on the eastern shore of the Nile.
+The governor who presides over this district is called Rahwah, and
+is dependant on the chief of Aloa.</p>
+
+<p>In these parts the Nile has seven branches; one of them is a
+river coming from the east, the water of which is muddy, and it
+dries up in summer-time, so that its bed is inhabited; but at the
+period of the rising of the Nile, the water again rises out of it;
+the tanks are replenished; the rains and torrents spread over the
+whole country, and the Nile then reaches<span class="pagenum" id="Page_498">[498]</span> its utmost height.<a id="FNanchor_225"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_225">[38]</a> It is reported, that the upper end of
+this river is a very large spring coming from the mountain.</p>
+
+<p>The Nubian historian<a id="FNanchor_226"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_226">[39]</a> then says, “Semyoun (i. e. Simon), the reigning
+chief of Aloa, told me that a fish is found in the bed of this
+river without scales, and of a species that is not seen in the
+Nile. They dig to the depth of three or four feet, in order to take
+it.<a id="FNanchor_227"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_227">[40]</a> On this river dwells a
+race of mixed origin, of Aloa and of Bedja, called Deyhyoun, and
+another race called Nara,<a id="FNanchor_228"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_228">[41]</a> from whom the species of pigeons called
+Narein<a id="FNanchor_229"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_229">[42]</a> are obtained. Further the
+country of Habesh begins.</p>
+
+<p>A second branch of the Nile is the White Nile (Nil el Abyadh), a
+river coming from the western parts, of a deep white colour like
+milk. “I have enquired,” continues Selym, “of Moggrebyns, who have
+travelled in Soudan, respecting the Nile of their country, and its
+colour, and they stated, that it rises in mountains of sand, and
+that it collects in Soudan into large seas;<a id="FNanchor_230"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_230">[43]</a> that it is unknown where it afterwards
+flows to; and that its colour is not white. Both sides of the Nil
+el Abyadh are inhabited.</p>
+
+<p>Another branch of the Nile is the Green Nile (Nil el Akhdar), a
+river coming from the south, somewhat towards the east.<a id="FNanchor_231"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_231">[44]</a> Its waters are of a deep green colour,
+and so clear that the fish can be seen at the bottom of it. The
+taste of its water is different from that of the Nile, and he who
+drinks of it soon becomes thirsty again. The fish in the two rivers
+are the same, but their taste is different. In the time of high
+water, the Green Nile carries down the woods Sadj, and
+Bekam,<a id="FNanchor_232"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_232">[45]</a> and Kena,<a id="FNanchor_233"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_233">[46]</a> and a wood, the smell of which resembles
+incense, and large beams of wood of which helms of ships are made.
+This last mentioned wood grows likewise on the banks of this river,
+and it is said that the aloe wood is also met with there. I have
+myself, says Selim el Assouany, seen signs of Arabic origin on
+several beams of Sadj, floated down in the time of high water.
+These two rivers, the White and the Green, unite at the capital of
+Aloa, and retain their respective colours for nearly one day’s
+journey, after which their waters mix, and their waves furiously
+combat with each other.” “I was informed,” adds Selim, “by some
+body who had taken (water from) the White river, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_499">[499]</span> emptied it into the Green
+river, that it fell like milk, and that it was an hour before the
+waters mixed.</p>
+
+<p>An island is inclosed between these two rivers, the upper end of
+which is unknown, as is likewise the upper extremity of these two
+rivers, on account of the fear which the inhabitants entertain of
+each other; for there are many powerful nations in the island. I
+was told that some chief of Aloa once travelled for the purpose of
+finding the extremity of the island, but after several years could
+not reach it; and that on its southern side dwells a people who
+live, together with their cattle, in the day time in houses under
+the earth, like cellars or caverns,<a id="FNanchor_234"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_234">[47]</a> on account of the sun’s heat, and who go
+out to pasture by night-time; and that there are likewise people
+going entirely naked.<a id="FNanchor_235"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_235">[48]</a></p>
+
+<p>The other <em>four rivers</em> come likewise from the
+southwards, somewhat towards the east, all at the same
+time,<a id="FNanchor_236"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_236">[49]</a> nor is their extremity
+known. They are less broad than the White and Green rivers, and
+have fewer side channels and islands.<a id="FNanchor_237"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_237">[50]</a> All the four rivers empty themselves into
+the Green river, as does also the first mentioned, after which they
+unite with the White river.<a id="FNanchor_238"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_238">[51]</a> They (i. e. their banks) are all inhabited and
+cultivated; they are navigated by ships and other vessels. One of
+them in its passage, comes from the country of Habesh. I made many
+enquiries concerning these rivers,” adds Selym, “and traced them
+from nation to nation; but I found no person who could say that he
+had reached their extremity, and the final information of those who
+spoke on the authority of others, shewed that there were desert
+countries (on the extremity of them) and that the rivers floated
+down, in the time of high water, wrecks of ships, and doors, and
+other similar things, which appears to afford a proof, that there
+are cultivated districts beyond these deserted countries. As to the
+rise of the Nile, it is agreed by all, that it is occasioned by
+rains; and that in all the countries forming Egypt, and the two
+Sayds, and Assouan, and Nouba, and Aloa, and the countries above,
+the rise happens at the same time. I observed, however, that the
+river rose at Assouan before it rose at Kous. If the rains are
+copious in the upper countries, and the torrents descend, it then
+becomes known that it will be a year of good inundation; and if, on
+the contrary, the rains are partial, a season of drought
+ensues.”<a id="FNanchor_239"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_239">[52]</a></p>
+
+<p>Selym adds, “persons who have travelled to the country of
+Zendj,<a id="FNanchor_240"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_240">[53]</a> informed me of the route
+in the Indian sea to the northern Zendj: they keep along the coast
+on the eastern side<span class="pagenum" id="Page_500">[500]</span>
+of the island of Egypt (i. e. of Africa), until they arrive at a
+place called Ras Hofra,<a id="FNanchor_241"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_241">[54]</a> which they hold to be the extremity of the
+island of Egypt;<a id="FNanchor_242"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_242">[55]</a> they wait there for the appearance of a
+constellation, by which to direct their course, and then take their
+course westward,<a id="FNanchor_243"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_243">[56]</a> after which they again turn
+northward,<a id="FNanchor_244"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_244">[57]</a> so as to have the north in their face, until
+they reach a tribe of Zendj, where lies the town of their chief.
+From thence they turn towards Djidda in their prayers. Some of
+these four rivers, says Selym, come from the country of Zendj,
+because the Zendj wood is floated down by them.</p>
+
+<p>Souba<a id="FNanchor_245"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_245">[58]</a> is the residence of the chief of
+Aloa;<a id="FNanchor_246"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_246">[59]</a> it lies to the east of
+the great island, on its northern side, and between the White and
+the Green rivers, near their confluence. Eastwards of that city is
+the river which dries up, and whose bed is then inhabited. The city
+contains handsome edifices and extensive dwellings, and churches
+full of gold, and gardens, and inns,<a id="FNanchor_247"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_247">[60]</a> where Moslims live. The chief of Aloa is
+a greater person than the chief of Mokra; he has a stronger army
+than the latter, and his country is more extensive and more
+fertile. Date trees and vineyards are scarce there; the most common
+grain is the white Dhourra, which is like rice, and of it they make
+their bread and their Mozer.<a id="FNanchor_248"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_248">[61]</a> Flesh they have in great plenty from the
+quantity of cattle and the excellence of the meadows, which are of
+such extent, that several days journeys are required to reach the
+mountains.<a id="FNanchor_249"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_249">[62]</a> Their horses are of a noble race, and their
+camels are the reddish coloured species of Arabia; their religion
+is that of the Jacobite Christians, and their Bishops are named by
+the chief of Alexandria, as are those of the Noubas.<a id="FNanchor_250"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_250">[63]</a> Their books (i. e. their sacred books)
+are in the Greek tongue, which they translate into their own
+language. The understanding of these people is inferior to that of
+the Noubas.<a id="FNanchor_251"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_251">[64]</a> Their king reduces to slavery whomsoever he
+chooses of his subjects, whether they have committed a crime or
+not; nor do they object to this practice; on the contrary,
+they<span class="pagenum" id="Page_501">[501]</span> prostrate
+themselves before him, in submission, and never oppose any of the
+hateful orders with which they are oppressed; but exclaim “Long
+live the king, and may his will be done!” The king wears a crown of
+gold, for there is plenty of gold in his dominions.<a id="FNanchor_252"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_252">[65]</a> One of the curiosities of his country is,
+that in the great island between the two rivers, lives a nation of
+the name of Koroma,<a id="FNanchor_253"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_253">[66]</a> or Kersa, possessing a wide district which is
+cultivated by means of the Nile and the rains. When the time of
+sowing arrives, every one of these people issues into the fields
+with seed for sowing. He draws lines proportionate in size to the
+quantity of his seed, and sows a little in each of the four
+corners, placing the principal seed in the midst of the square, and
+by its side some Mozer (or Bouza), and then retires. The next
+morning he finds that the seed he had heaped up has been sown all
+over the square, and that the Mozer has been drank. At harvest time
+he cuts a little of the corn, and carries it to the place in which
+he wishes to deposit it, again placing some Mozer by its side, and
+goes away: he afterwards finds the whole harvest completed, and the
+corn heaped up in its proper place. If he wants to thrash and to
+winnow the corn, the same thing is done. If any one wishing to
+clear in like manner the field of wild herbs makes a mistake, and
+pulls out some of the good seed, he finds, on the following
+morning, the whole of the seed pulled out. In the parts where this
+practice prevails are large and extensive provinces, of two months
+travelling in length and breadth; every where the time of sowing is
+the same. The supply of corn for the city of Aloa, and for their
+chief, comes from these parts; they send their ships to load there,
+and sometimes war breaks out between them. Selym affirms that the
+above story is true, and publicly known amongst the people of Aloa
+and Nouba, and that the Moslim merchants who travel through this
+country never entertain the least doubt of it. Were it not, he
+adds, for the celebrity and notoriety of this fact, which it would
+be wrong to condescend to imitate, I should never have mentioned
+any thing about it, on account of its filthiness. The neighbouring
+people believe that it is done by demons, who appear to some of
+them, and serve them, by means of stones that ensure their
+obedience, and that the clouds and rain are at their command. The
+Nouba governor of Mokra told me also, that when it rains in the
+mountains, they gather fish on the ground; and when I asked him
+about their species, he answered, that they were small, with red
+tails.</p>
+
+<p>I have seen, continues Selym, many different races of the people
+above mentioned, the greater part of whom acknowledge the existence
+of the Almighty God, but associate with him the sun, moon, and
+stars. Others do not know God, and adore the sun and fire, and
+others adore whatever they hold particularly beautiful of trees or
+of animals. Selym adds, that he had seen a man in the audience
+chamber of the chief of Mokra, and had asked him about his country;
+he replied, that it was three months journey from the Nile. When
+questioned about his religion, he said, “My God, and thy God, and
+the God of the universe, and of men, is all one.” When asked where
+God lived, he answered, “in heaven;” and again<span class="pagenum" id="Page_502">[502]</span> declared the unity of the Almighty. He
+related, that when the rains tarried, or plagues and pestilence
+visited them or their cattle, they ascended the mountain to pray to
+the Almighty, who forthwith granted their prayers, and fulfilled
+their demands before they descended. Selym then asked the man
+whether God had ever sent them a prophet, and was answered in the
+negative; whereupon he related to him the missions of Moses, and
+Jesus, and Mohammed (God’s mercy and peace be with them!) and the
+miracles which they were permitted to perform. The man then
+replied, “if they have really done this, truth is with them; and if
+they have done these miracles,” he afterwards said, “I believe in
+them.”</p>
+
+<p>The author (Makrizi) having given these copious extracts from
+Selym el Assouany, now resumes his own narrative, and says: The
+sons of Kenz el Doula conquered Nouba, and took possession of it in
+the year ———;<a id="FNanchor_254"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_254">[67]</a> and in Dóngola they built a mosque, where
+strangers might dwell.</p>
+
+<p>We shall add here, continues Makrizi, that on the borders of the
+Nile lies also Kanem, the king of which is a Mohammedan. It is at a
+very great distance from the country of Maly. The residence of the
+king is in the town called Heymy. The first town on the side
+towards Egypt is called Zela,<a id="FNanchor_255"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_255">[68]</a> and the last, reckoning lengthways, is called
+Kaka, about three months journey distant from the other. The people
+of this country go veiled;<a id="FNanchor_256"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_256">[69]</a> their king is hidden behind curtains, and sees
+nobody excepting on the two feast-days, in the morning, at the time
+of the Aszer.<a id="FNanchor_257"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_257">[70]</a> During the whole of the year nobody speaks to
+him, except behind a curtain. Their main food is rice, which grows
+there without being sown;<a id="FNanchor_258"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_258">[71]</a> they have wheat, Dhourra, figs, lemons,
+Badendjams, turnips, and dates. Their currency is cotton stuffs,
+woven in the country, and called Dandy;<a id="FNanchor_259"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_259">[72]</a> every piece is ten peeks in length, and
+they make purchases with pieces of it of one-fourth, and
+more.<a id="FNanchor_260"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_260">[73]</a> They use also as a
+currency shells (i. e. cowries) glass-beads, broken copper, and
+paper, all of which have their fixed value in the cotton stuffs. To
+the south of them are forests and deserts, inhabited by wild
+creatures, like demons, approaching to the figure of man, whom a
+horseman cannot overtake, and who hurt people. In the night there
+appears something like fire; it shines, and when any one goes
+towards it to take it, it retires to a distance from him, so that
+should he even run, he never can come up with it; but it always
+keeps before him, and if he throws a stone at it and hits it,
+sparks fly from it. The gourds grow to a large size; they make
+ships of them, upon which they cross the Nile.<a id="FNanchor_261"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_261">[74]</a> These countries lie between Africa and
+Barka, and extend to the south as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_503">[503]</span> far as the limits of the middle Gharb. It
+is a country of dearth, productive of little, and with a bad
+climate. The first who there divulged the Islam, was El Hady el
+Othmany, who is said to be descended from the son of Othman Ibn
+Affan. It became afterwards subjected to the Zeznyein, of the Beni
+Seyf Zy Yezen; they are of the sect of the Imam Malek Ibn Anes.
+Justice is upheld among them; they are very rigorous in religious
+matters, and show no indulgence. They built at Cairo a Medrese of
+the Malekites, known by the name of Medreset Ibn Rashyk, in A. H.
+640, where their travellers alight. It is said that they are
+descended from the Berbers.</p>
+
+<p class="center space-above15 space-below1"><em>Description of El
+Bedja.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>The beginning of Bedja is from the city (or village) of
+Kherbe,<a id="FNanchor_262"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_262">[75]</a> at the emerald mines in
+the desert of Kous, about three days journey from that
+town.<a id="FNanchor_263"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_263">[76]</a> Djaheth mentions that
+there are no other emerald mines in the world, but in this spot.
+They are found in far extended and dark caverns, into which they
+enter with lights and cords,<a id="FNanchor_264"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_264">[77]</a> for fear of going astray, and with these they
+trace their way back. They dig for the emeralds with axes, and find
+them in the midst of stones, surrounded by a substance<a id="FNanchor_265"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_265">[78]</a> of less value, and inferior in colour and
+brilliancy.<a id="FNanchor_266"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_266">[79]</a> The extremities of Bedja touch upon the
+confines of Habesh. The Bedja live in the midst of this island,
+meaning the island of Egypt, as far as the shores of the salt sea,
+and towards the island of Souakin, and Nadha, and Dahlak. They are
+Bedouins, and fetch the herbs, wherever they grow, in leathern
+sacks. They reckon lineage from the female side. Each clan has a
+chief; they have no sovereign, and acknowledge no religion. With
+them the son by the daughter, or the son by the sister, succeeds to
+the property, to the exclusion of the true son, and they allege
+that the birth of the daughter, or sister’s son, is more certain,
+because, at all events, whether it is the husband or some one else
+who is the father, he is always her son.<a id="FNanchor_267"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_267">[80]</a> They had formerly a chief, upon whom the
+minor chiefs depended, who lived at the village of Hedjer, on the
+extremity of the island of Bedja. They ride choice camels, of a
+reddish colour, the breed of which they rear, and the Arabian camel
+is likewise there met with in great numbers. Their cows are very
+handsome, and of various colours, with very large horns; others
+without any horns; their sheep are spotted, and full of milk. Their
+food is flesh and milk, with little cheese, though some of them eat
+it. Their bodies are full grown, their stomachs emaciated, their
+colour has a yellowish tinge. They are swift in running, by which
+they distinguish themselves from other people. Their camels are
+likewise swift and indefatigable, and patiently bear thirst; they
+outrun horses with them, and fight on their backs, and turn them
+round with ease. They perform journies which appear incredible. In
+battle the Bedja pursue each other with their camels; when they
+throw the lance,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_504">[504]</span>
+and it adheres, the camel flies after it, and its master takes it
+again; but if the lance falls down, the camel lowers its hinder
+parts to permit the master to take the lance up from the ground.
+They are people of good faith; if any of them has defrauded his
+guest, the latter holds up a shirt on the end of his lance, and
+exclaims, “This is the tent-covering<a id="FNanchor_268"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_268">[81]</a> of such a one,” meaning the guilty; the
+people then abuse the culpable until he satisfies the defrauded.
+They are very hospitable; if a guest arrives they kill for him (a
+sheep); if there be more than three people, they slaughter a camel
+of the nearest herd, whether it belongs to them or to anyone
+else;<a id="FNanchor_269"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_269">[82]</a> and if nothing else is at
+hand, they kill the camel upon which the guest arrived, and
+afterwards give him a better in return. Their arms are the lances
+called Sebaye, with an iron point three peeks in length, and a
+wooden shaft of four peeks, for which reason they are called
+Sebaye.<a id="FNanchor_270"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_270">[83]</a> The iron head is of the
+breadth of a sword. They very seldom deposit these lances, but keep
+them always in their hands. On the extremity of the wood is
+something like a handle, which prevents it from slipping through
+the hand. These lances are made by women, at a place where they
+have no intercourse with men, except with those who come to buy the
+lances. If any of these women bears a female child by one of these
+visitors, they permit it to live; but if a male, they kill it,
+saying that all men are a plague and a misfortune. Their shields
+are made of cow-skins full of hair; and others of their shields,
+called Aksomye,<a id="FNanchor_271"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_271">[84]</a> are inverted in shape, and made of buffaloe
+skin, as are likewise the Dahlakye,<a id="FNanchor_272"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_272">[85]</a> or else of the skin of a sea
+animal.<a id="FNanchor_273"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_273">[86]</a> Their bow is the Arabian
+bow, large and thick, made of the wood of Seder and
+Shohat;<a id="FNanchor_274"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_274">[87]</a> they use with them
+poisoned arrows: their poison is made of the root of the tree Falfa
+(or Galga), which is boiled over the fire, until it dissolves into
+a glue. To try its efficacy, one of the people scratches his skin,
+and lets the blood flow, if the blood, upon being touched with the
+poison, is driven back, they know that the poison is strong, and
+they wipe the blood off, that it may not return into the body, and
+kill the person. If the arrow hits a man, it kills him in an
+instant, even though the wound be not larger than the scratch made
+in cupping; but it has no effect except in wounds, and in blood,
+and it may be drank without any harm.</p>
+
+<p>This country is full of mines; the higher it is ascended the
+richer it is found to be in gold. There are mines of silver,
+copper, iron, lead, loadstone, marcasite, Hamest,<a id="FNanchor_275"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_275">[88]</a> emeralds, and a very brittle stone, of
+which if a piece is rubbed with oil, it burns like a wick; other
+similar productions are found in their researches after gold; but
+the Bedja work none of these mines except those of gold. In their
+valleys grow the tree Mokel, and the Ahlyledj,<a id="FNanchor_276"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_276">[89]</a> and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_505">[505]</span> Adkher,<a id="FNanchor_277"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_277">[90]</a> the Shyh,<a id="FNanchor_278"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_278">[91]</a> Sena, Coloquintida,<a id="FNanchor_279"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_279">[92]</a> Ban,<a id="FNanchor_280"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_280">[93]</a> and others. On the farthest confines of their
+country dates, and vines, and odoriferous plants, and others, grow
+naturally. All sorts of wild animals are seen here, as lions,
+elephants, tigers, Fahed,<a id="FNanchor_281"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_281">[94]</a> monkeys, Anak el Ardh,<a id="FNanchor_282"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_282">[95]</a> civet cats, and a beautiful animal
+resembling the Gazelle, with two horns of a golden colour; it holds
+out but a short time when it is hunted.<a id="FNanchor_283"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_283">[96]</a> Their birds are the parrot, the Taghteit,
+the Nouby, the pigeon called Narein, the Komary,<a id="FNanchor_284"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_284">[97]</a> the Habesh fowl,<a id="FNanchor_285"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_285">[98]</a> and others. Maribus omnibus in hâc
+regione testiculorum dexter abstrahitur: præcisa autem fœminarum
+labia pudendi, intensione primâ, ut medici dicunt, contrahuntur et
+sibi invicem radicitùs adhærent: ante nuptias perforantur, cum rima
+ad mensuram inguinis virilis efficitur. Hæc autem, quæ jam rarior
+est, consuetudo, originem traxisse fertur ex antiquo pacis fœdere,
+cum tyranno quodam inito, qui, ad gentem funditùs delendam,
+universis imperavit, ut masculorum liberorum testiculos, alterius
+autem sexûs mammas abscinderent: hi vero, diversâ ratione, maribus
+quidem mammas, fœminis pudenda exsecabant. A race of Bedja tear out
+their back teeth, alleging that they do not wish to resemble asses.
+Another of their races living on the extremity of their country is
+called Baza.<a id="FNanchor_286"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_286">[99]</a> Among them all the women are called by the same
+name, and so are the men. A Moslim merchant<a id="FNanchor_287"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_287">[100]</a> once travelled through their country,
+who happening to be a handsome looking man, they called out to each
+other and said, “this is God descended from heaven;” and they kept
+looking at him from afar while he sat under a tree.<a id="FNanchor_288"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_288">[101]</a> The serpents of this country are large
+and of many different species: it is related that a serpent was
+once lying in a pond, with its tail above water, and that a woman
+who came in search of water looked at it, and died in
+convulsions.<a id="FNanchor_289"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_289">[102]</a> Here lives a serpent without a head, not
+large, with both extremities (or sides) alike, and of a spotted
+colour. If a person walks upon its track he dies; and if it is
+killed, and the person takes into his hand the stick that killed
+it, he himself is killed: one of these serpents was once killed by
+a stick, and the stick split in two. If any of these serpents,
+whether alive or dead, is looked at, the beholder will be hurt.</p>
+
+<p>The Bedja country is always in commotion, and the people are
+prone to mischief. During the Islam, and before that time, they had
+oppressed the eastern banks of Upper Egypt, and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_506">[506]</span> had ruined many villages. The
+Pharao kings of Egypt made incursions against them, and at other
+times left them in peace, on account of their works at the gold
+mines; and the Greeks did the same when they took Egypt. Remarkable
+ruins of Greek origin are still to be seen at the mines, and their
+people were in possession of these mines when Egypt was conquered
+by the Moslims. Abderrahman Ibn Abdallah Ibn Abd el Hekham relates,
+that when Abdallah Ibn Sayd Ibn Aly Sarh returned from the country
+of Nouba, he met with the Bedjas on the banks of the Nile; he asked
+them about their state, and they told him that they had no king.
+Hearing this he scorned (going to war with) them, and left them,
+without concluding a peace nor any treaty with them. The first who
+concluded an engagement with them was Obeydullah Ibn el Hydjab, to
+whom they agreed to pay yearly a tribute of three hundred female
+camels, in order to be permitted, for the sake of trade, to repair
+to Egypt, where they were never to take up their residence; that
+they should kill neither Moslim nor any of their
+tributaries:<a id="FNanchor_290"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_290">[103]</a> that if they killed any, the treaty was to be
+void; that they should not give refuge to any of the slaves of the
+Moslims; that they should return whatever slave or cattle should
+have run away and come to them; that fines were to be paid on that
+account, and that for every sheep a Bedjawy took, he was to pay
+four dinars, and for every cow, ten. An agent of theirs remained in
+Egypt, as hostage in the hands of the Moslims. The Moslims at the
+mines afterwards increased in number, they mixed with the Bedjas,
+and intermarried with them, and many of the people called
+Hadharebe, who are the principal and the primates of the nation,
+became Moslims, but their faith was weak. These dwell from the
+nearest limits of their country where it borders on Upper Egypt, to
+the Ollaky and Aidab, from whence the sea is crossed to Djidda, and
+likewise beyond. With them lives another race called Zenafedj,
+superior to the Hadharebe in numbers, but subordinate to them; they
+serve as their guards, and supply them with cattle. Every chief of
+the Hadharebe has among his attendants people of the Zenafedj, like
+slaves, whom they transmit in inheritance to their successors,
+although, formerly, the Zenafedj were more powerful than
+themselves.<a id="FNanchor_291"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_291">[104]</a></p>
+
+<p>The mischievous doings of the Bedjas against the Moslims
+afterwards increased. At that time the governors of Assouan were
+from Irak. Representations were made to the Emir of the true
+Believers, El Mamoun, at whose command Abdallah Ibn Djahan set out
+against them; he fought many battles with them, and then left them,
+and a treaty passed between him and Kanoun, the chief of the Bedja,
+who resided at the above mentioned village of Hedjer. This is the
+copy of the letter: “This letter is written by Abdallah Ibn el
+Djahan, the officer of the Emir of the True Believers, the chief of
+the victorious army, the governor of the prince Aby Is-hak, son of
+Er-rasheid, the Emir of the True Believers; (may God, prolong his
+days!) In the first month of Rabya, in the year (A. H.) 216. It is
+addressed to Kanoun Ibn Azyz, the chief of the Bedja, and written
+at Assouan. “Thou hast asked me, and demandest from me, a safe
+conduct for theyself and the people of Bedja, binding for all
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_507">[507]</span> Moslims, I
+therefore grant it to thee, and promise thee this safe conduct, as
+long as thou and thy people shall observe the conditions to which
+thou bindest thyself in this letter; which are: That the plains and
+mountains of thy country, from Assouan in Egypt to the country
+between Dahlak and Nadha<a id="FNanchor_292"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_292">[105]</a> shall belong to Mamoun Abdallah Ibn Haroun
+Er-rasheid, the Emir of the true Believers, may the Almighty
+increase his honours!—and thou and all thy people shall be slaves
+of the Emir of the true Believers, so that he shall be called King
+of the country, as thou art King of the Bedjas. Thou shalt pay an
+annual tribute, as the Bedjas did formerly, which is to consist
+either in one hundred camels or three hundred Dinars, full weight,
+to the Beit el Mal,<a id="FNanchor_293"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_293">[106]</a> at the option of the Emir of the true
+Believers, or his governors, and thou shalt not purloin any part of
+this tribute. If any one of you shall mention the name of Mohammed,
+the Prophet of God, may his mercy be with him!—or of the book and
+the religion of God, in a way in which it ought not to be
+mentioned; or if any one kills a Moslim, free man or slave, he is
+no longer entitled to this pledge of faith, which is given in the
+name of God, and of the Prophet, and of the Emir of the true
+Believers,—may God increase his honours!—and of the whole body of
+the Moslims, and his blood becomes lawful, like the blood of the
+enemies of the Islam, or their descendants. If any of you give
+assistance to the enemies of the people of the Islam, either by
+aiding them with his property, or by shewing them the weak sides of
+the Moslims, or by actually attempting to deceive or delude the
+latter, the pledges of this treaty are annulled with respect to
+him, and his blood becomes lawful. If any of you kill a Moslim
+purposely, or involuntarily, whether it be a free man or a slave,
+or a tributary, or rob the property of a Moslim or a tributary in
+the country of Bedja, or the country of the Islam, or in Nouba, or
+any other country, by land or by water, he is to pay ten times the
+fine of blood; and if it be a slave, ten times his value; and if it
+be a tributary, ten times his fines, as these fines are enacted by
+the laws. If any Moslim enters Bedja as a merchant, either to
+remain, or to pass through, or as a pilgrim,<a id="FNanchor_294"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_294">[107]</a> he shall be in perfect safety, like one
+of yourselves, until he leaves the country. You shall not harbour
+any run-aways from the Moslims, and if any one of them come to you,
+you shall return him. In the same manner you shall send back the
+cattle of the Moslims, if it strays into your territory, without
+requiring any fee on its account. If you descend into Upper Egypt,
+either to pass through that province, or to trade, you shall wear
+no arms, nor enter any cities or villages whatsoever. You shall not
+prevent any of the Moslims from entering your country, and trading
+in it by land or by sea. You shall not endanger their passage, nor
+waylay any Moslims or tributaries on the road, and you shall not
+pilfer any goods of the Moslims or their tributaries; you shall not
+ruin any part of the Mesjed that the Moslims have built at Dhyher
+and Hedjer, or in any other part of your country, in its whole
+length and breadth. If you do this, no promise or pledge given to
+you shall be binding. Kanoun Ibn Azyz shall appoint in Upper Egypt
+an agent to ensure the payment of the tribute, as well as
+of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_508">[508]</span> those sums which
+the Bedjas may have to pay to the Moslims in fines of blood or of
+stolen property. None of the Bedjas shall pass into the Nouba
+territory from the Kaszer to the city of Koban; the limits to be
+reckoned from the columns.<a id="FNanchor_295"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_295">[108]</a> Obeyd Ibn ed-Djaham, the officer of the Emir
+of the true Believers, grants the peace to Kanoun Ibn Abd el Azyz,
+the chief of the Bedja, on condition that he shall fulfil these
+engagements to the Emir of the true Believers. But if he shall
+contravene them, and prove rebellious, all promises and pledges are
+annulled. Kanoun shall moreover permit the officers of the Emir of
+the true Believers to enter the country of Bedja to collect there
+the alms of those who are converted to the Moslim
+faith.”<a id="FNanchor_296"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_296">[109]</a> This letter was
+translated word for word by Zakerya Ibn Saleh, el Makhrouny, an
+inhabitant of Djidda,<a id="FNanchor_297"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_297">[110]</a> and Abdullah Ibn Ismayl, the Koreyshy, and
+some people of Assouan added their testimonies.</p>
+
+<p>This treaty was for a long time observed; after which the Bedjas
+re-assumed their inroads into Upper Egypt, and clamorous
+representations were repeatedly made on that subject to the Emir of
+the true Believers, Djafar el Motewakel al’Allah; upon which the
+latter ordered Mohammed Ibn Abdallah el Komy to prepare to attack
+them. He begged to be permitted to take with him those only he
+liked, as he did not wish for great numbers, the passage through
+the country being difficult. He set out against them from Egypt,
+with a well furnished and well chosen force,<a id="FNanchor_298"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_298">[111]</a> and the ships departed by
+sea.<a id="FNanchor_299"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_299">[112]</a> The Bedjas collected in
+vast numbers, all mounted on camels, and the Moslims were
+frightened. But their commander drew off the attention of the
+Bedjas by a long letter which he wrote to them on a roll wrapped up
+in cloth.<a id="FNanchor_300"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_300">[113]</a> They assembled to read it, and at that moment
+the Moslims attacked them, having small bells hung to the necks of
+their horses. The camels of the Bedjas could not withstand the
+noise of the bells, and fled. They were pursued by the Moslims, who
+killed many of them, and among their numbers, the chief. He was
+succeeded by the son of his brother, who sued for reconciliation,
+which was acceded to, on condition that he should pay his personal
+obeissance to the Emir of the true Believers. He repaired to
+Bagdad, and presented himself before Motewakel, at the place called
+Sermanraa, in the year of the Hedjra 241. Peace was then granted to
+him, on condition of the payment of his dues, and the
+Bakt;<a id="FNanchor_301"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_301">[114]</a> and it was prescribed to
+him that the Bedja should not put any obstacles to the work of the
+Moslims at the mines. El Komy remained a long time at Assouan, and
+deposited in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_509">[509]</span>
+treasury of that town all his arms and instruments of war, of which
+the governors of Assouan continued to take till none were left.</p>
+
+<p>When the Moslims increased at the mines, and intermixed with the
+Bedjas, the mischievous doings of the latter diminished. The number
+of people who now went in search of gold-dust discovered it (in
+abundance), the news spread, and people of all countries repaired
+thither. There arrived Abou Abderrahman Ibn Abdallah Ibn Abd el
+Hamyd el Amry, after his campaign against the Noubas in the year
+255. He had with him the Rabya, and Djeheyne, and others, by whom
+Bedja became more cultivated and populous, so that the caravans
+which brought the provisions from Assouan consisted of six thousand
+camels; and this was exclusive of what the ships carried by the sea
+of Kolzoum to Aidab. The Bedja liked the Rabyas, and intermarried
+with them. It is related that the priests of the Bedja, before some
+of that nation had become Moslims, had told them that their gods
+ordered them to obey the Rabya, and likewise Kanoun, which they
+did. When Amry was killed, and that the Rabya became masters of the
+island (of Bedja) and that the Bedja according to this injunction
+united with them; those Arabs who were inimical to them, left the
+country. The Rabya married the daughters of the chiefs of the
+Bedja, and the conduct of the latter towards the Moslims (of Egypt)
+became now less mischievous.</p>
+
+<p>The interior Bedja live in the desert between the country of
+Aloa and the salt sea, and extend to the limits of the country of
+Habesh. Their people rear cattle and are pastors; their way of
+living, their ships, and army, are like those of the Hadharebe, but
+the latter are a more courageous and more religious people, while
+those of the interior all remain infidels. They adore the devil,
+and follow the example of their priests: every clan has its priest,
+who pitches a tent made of feathers, in the shape of a dome,
+wherein he practises his adorations; when they consult him about
+their affairs, he strips naked, and enters the tent stepping
+backwards; he afterwards issues with the appearance of a mad and
+delirious person, and exclaims, “the devil salutes you, and tells
+you to depart from this place, for that a hostile party (naming it)
+will fall upon you.” If you ask advice about an expedition which
+you may be about to undertake against any particular country, he
+often answers, “march on, and you will be victorious, and will take
+booty to such an amount, and the camels you will take at such a
+place must be my property, as well as the female slave you will
+find in such a tent, and the sheep, &amp;c.” On the march, the
+priest loads his tent upon a camel destined for that sole purpose,
+and they believe that the camel rises up from the ground, and walks
+with great difficulty, and that it sweats profusely, although the
+tent is quite empty, and nothing is in it. Among the Hadharebe live
+some of those people who still retain this religion, and others who
+mix with it the Islam.</p>
+
+<p>The Nubian historian (Selym) from whom I (Macrizi) have made
+these extracts, says, “I have read in the “Discourse of the Ahbas,”
+by the Emir of the true Believers, Aly Ibn Aly Taleb,<a id="FNanchor_302"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_302">[115]</a> and found therein mention made of the
+Bedja and the Kedja, and that they are warlike nations who do not
+make much booty.” The Bedja are of that description, but I know not
+who the Kedja are.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_510">[510]</span>Abou el Hassan
+el Massoudy relates as follows, (continues Macrizi:<a id="FNanchor_303"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_303">[116]</a>) The Bedja took up their abode in the
+country between the sea of Kolzoum and the Egyptian Nile; they
+separated into branches, and chose a king. In this country are the
+mines of gold, that is the gold dust, and the emerald mines. Their
+hostile parties and partizans, mounted upon camels, penetrate as
+far as Nouba, which country they attack, and from thence they carry
+off prisoners. In former times the Nouba were stronger than the
+Bedja, until the Islam took firm footing among the latter. A number
+of Moslims came then to inhabit the gold mines, and the country of
+Ollaky and Aidab, and Arabs of the tribe of Rabya Ibn Nezar Ibn Mad
+Ibn Adnan settled in these parts. Their chiefs grew powerful and
+intermarried with the Bedja, whose strength increased by this
+connection, while they on their side supported the Rabya against
+the Arabs of the tribe of Kahtan and Modher, who had settled there,
+and other tribes who had settled in the vicinity of this territory.
+The possessor of the mines in our times (says Masoudy,) which is in
+the year 332 (A. H.) is Besheir Ibn Merwan Ibn Is-hak of the Rabya,
+who has under his command three thousand horsemen of the Arabs
+Rabya and other Arabs of Egypt and Yemen, and thirty thousand
+fighting men of the Bedja mounted upon camels of good race, armed
+with the Bedja bucklers, and these are the people called Hadharebe,
+who are the only Moslims among the Bedja, those of the interior
+being infidels and adoring an idol. By the valley of Bedja, which
+encloses the emerald mines, this country extends to the Ollaky,
+where are the gold mines. From the Ollaky to the Nile are fifteen
+days journey, and the nearest cultivated part of it is
+Assouan.<a id="FNanchor_304"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_304">[117]</a></p>
+
+<p>The island of Souakin is less than one mile in length and in
+breadth. Its inhabitants are a tribe of Bedja called Khasa; they
+are Moslims, and have a king. Hamadany relates, that Kenan, the son
+of Ham, married Arteyt,<a id="FNanchor_305"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_305">[118]</a> the daughter of Benawyl Ibn Ters Ibn Yafeth.
+She gave birth to Haka and El Asáwed, and the Nouba, and
+Koran,<a id="FNanchor_306"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_306">[119]</a> and Zendj, and
+Zaghawa,<a id="FNanchor_307"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_307">[120]</a> and all the tribes of the Negroes. It is also
+said that the Bedja descend from Ham, the son of Noah, or else from
+the son of Koush, the son of Kenan, the son of Ham. Others state,
+that they are a tribe of the Habesh. The Bedja live under tents of
+hair, their colour is darker than that of the Habesh;<a id="FNanchor_308"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_308">[121]</a> they have the manners of Arabs. They
+have no towns, no villages, no fields. Their provisions are carried
+to them from Egypt, and Habesh, and Nouba. They were formerly
+idolatrous, and then took the Islam, under the governorship of
+Abdallah Ibn Sad Ibn Aly Sarh. They are hospitable and charitable
+people; they are<span class="pagenum" id="Page_511">[511]</span>
+divided into tribes and branches, every one of which has its chief.
+They are pastors, and live entirely on flesh and milk.</p>
+
+<p class="center space-above15 space-below1"><em>Of the Tribute of
+the Nouba, called Bakt, by Ibn Selym el Assouany.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>The captives received in tribute from the Nouba are called
+Bakt.—(Here follow some etymological remarks on the word Bakt).—It
+was levied at the Kaszer (Philæ) five miles from Assouan, situated
+between Belak and the Nouba territory. The income of the customs of
+the Kaszer belongs to Kous. This Bakt<a id="FNanchor_309"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_309">[122]</a> was first instituted in the reign of Amr
+Ibn el Ras,<a id="FNanchor_310"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_310">[123]</a> who after the conquest of Egypt sent Abdallah
+Ibn Sad Ibn Aly Sarh, in the year 20 or 21 (A. H.) with twenty
+thousand soldiers against the Nouba. He tarried there a long time,
+until Amr el Aas wrote to him to come back. After the death of Amr,
+the peace that had been concluded between the Nouba and Aly Sarh
+was broken, and they frequently renewed their invasions of Upper
+Egypt, when they ruined the country and committed many excesses.
+Aly Sarh now attacked them a second time, while he was governor of
+Egypt, in the time of the Khalifat of Othman, in the year 31 (A.
+H.) He besieged them very closely in the city of Dóngola, and with
+slinging machines,<a id="FNanchor_311"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_311">[124]</a> unknown to the Nouba, launched stones into the
+town, which shattered their church. This appalled them, and their
+king, Koleydozo,<a id="FNanchor_312"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_312">[125]</a> asked for a renewal of peace. He issued from
+the town, and met Aly Sarh with all the signs of weakness, misery,
+and humbleness. Aly Sarh gave him a polite and kind reception, and
+concluded the peace upon the condition of an annual tribute of
+three hundred and sixty head of slaves. Upon the king’s complaints
+of the want of provisions in his country, he promised him a present
+of grain. A document was written out on that occasion, of which the
+following is a copy.</p>
+
+<p>After the invocation of God:—“This is a pledge of peace given by
+the Emir Abdallah Ibn Sad Ibn Aly Sarh, to the chief of Nouba, and
+all his people, valid for the great and the small among the Nouba,
+from the limits of Assouan to those of Aloa. Aly Sarh establishes
+safe conduct and peace between them, the neighbouring Moslims of
+Upper Egypt, and the other Moslims, and all their tributaries. You
+people of Nouba shall be in complete security, the security of God
+and his prophet Mohammed, that we shall not attack you, or wage war
+upon you, or make hostile incursions against you, as long as you
+fulfil the conditions existing between us; which are, that you
+shall enter our country merely to pass through it, without
+remaining therein, and that we likewise shall only pass through
+your country, without taking up our residence there. You shall
+protect those Moslims, or their allies, who arrive in your country
+and travel through it until they have left it. You shall send back
+to the country of the Islam the run-away slaves of the Moslims, who
+have come to you, and likewise the Moslim who is at war with the
+Moslims, and has demanded your protection. You shall expel him, and
+oblige him to return to the country of the Islam; you shall not
+embrace his party, and prevent his being seized; and you shall not
+put any obstacle to the business of a Moslim (in your<span class="pagenum" id="Page_512">[512]</span> country); on the contrary, you
+shall favour him with respect to it, until he quits the
+country.—You shall take care of the mosque which the Moslims have
+built on the side of your town, and not prevent any body from
+praying there; you shall keep it clean, and light it, and honour
+it. Every year you shall pay three hundred and sixty head of slaves
+to the chief of the Moslims, of the middle sort of slaves of your
+country; none with bodily defects; males and females, but no old
+men and women, and no children under age; these you shall deliver
+into the hands of the governor of Assouan. No Moslim shall be
+obliged to protect or defend you against enemies that may attack
+you from Aloa, as far as Assouan. If you harbour the slave of a
+Moslim, or kill a Moslim, or an ally, or attempt to ruin the mosque
+built by the Moslims on the side of your town, or withhold any part
+of the 360 head of slaves, then this peace and pledged security
+shall be void, and we shall return to be enemies, until God shall
+judge between us, and he is the best of all judges. Upon these
+conditions we pledge to you, and engage to you our promise and
+security, in the name of God and his Prophet; and you stand pledged
+to us by those you hold most holy in your faith, the Messiah and
+the Apostles, and all those you venerate in your religion, and who
+are witnesses between you and ourselves.”</p>
+
+<p>Omar Ibn Sharhabyl wrote (this) in the month of Ramadhan, in the
+year 31 ———<a id="FNanchor_313"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_313">[126]</a></p>
+
+<p>The Nouba had already paid this tribute to Amr Ibn el Aas,
+before the rupture of the peace, and had presented him moreover
+with a present of forty head of slaves; but this he refused to
+accept, and returned the present to the chief (collector) of the
+Bakt, called Samkous, who purchased for them wine and provisions to
+the same value, which he sent to them.<a id="FNanchor_314"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_314">[127]</a> Aly Sarh fulfilled his promise to the
+Nouba, and sent them corn and barley, lentils, clothes, and horses.
+This remained afterwards a regular custom. The Nouba received the
+amount of it every year, when they paid their tribute, and the
+number of forty slaves who had been offered to Amr Ibn el Aas were
+now yearly taken by the governors of Egypt. Aly Kheleyfa Homeyd Ibn
+Hesham el Baheyry relates, that the stipulated conditions of peace
+with the Nouba consisted of three hundred and sixty head of slaves
+to the Shade of the Moslims,<a id="FNanchor_315"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_315">[128]</a> (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">في
+المسلمين</span>) and forty to the governor of Egypt, and that they
+should receive in return one thousand Erdeybs of wheat, and their
+delegates three hundred Erdeybs of it; the same quantity of barley
+was to be given, and further, one thousand Kanyr of wine to the
+king, and three hundred Kanyr of wine to the delegates, together
+with two mares of the best kind, fit for princes.<a id="FNanchor_316"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_316">[129]</a> Farther, of the different stuffs of
+linen cloth one hundred pieces, and of the kind called Kobaty four
+pieces to the king and three to the envoys, of the kind called
+Baktery eight pieces, and of the Malam five pieces, and moreover a
+fine Djebbe<a id="FNanchor_317"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_317">[130]</a> to the king. Of the shirts called Aly Baktar,
+ten pieces, and of the first quality of shirts likewise ten, every
+one of which is equal to three of the common sort.</p>
+
+<p>The Nouba regularly paid their Bakt every year, and received in
+return the above menmentioned<span class="pagenum" id="Page_513">[513]</span> articles, until the times of the Emir of
+the true Believers, El Motassem b’illah Aly Is-hak, the son of
+Er-rasheid, when Zakarya Ibn Bahnas<a id="FNanchor_318"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_318">[131]</a> was their king. At that period the Nouba
+having perhaps been tardy in paying the Bakt, and the Moslim
+governors of the frontier provinces having treated them harshly,
+and withheld from them the supply of provisions, Feyrakey the son
+of Zakarya refused his father to submit in obedience to foreigners,
+and reproached him with weakness in paying the tribute. His father
+then asked him what his advice was, and he replied, to revolt
+against the Moslims, and make war with them. Our forefathers,
+answered Zakarya, thought this a just measure; I am afraid that the
+worst of the business will devolve upon you. We shall prepare for
+this war against the Moslims, but I will send you to their king as
+an envoy: you will know the state of their affairs and your own. If
+you think that we are a match for them, we shall go to war, and
+trust to God; if not, you will ask the king for presents. Feyraky
+then set out for Bagdad; he passed through the towns, and the
+country appeared to him very fine. In coming down, he was joined by
+the king of the Bedja and his retinue. They met El Motasem, and
+they were astonished to see in the Irak, besides what they had
+already witnessed on the road; the quantity of soldiers, and the
+flourishing state of the country. El Motasem received Feyraky with
+politeness and kindness, and treated him with great generosity. He
+accepted his presents, and returned them two-fold, and told him to
+demand any favour he liked. Upon which he begged that the
+prisoners<a id="FNanchor_319"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_319">[132]</a> might be set free, which was granted to him.
+Feyraky rose high in the opinion of Motasem; who made him a present
+of the house at which he had alighted in the Irak, and gave orders
+to purchase in every town on his way a house for the accommodations
+of the messengers he might send, and wherein no other travellers
+should be permitted to lodge. At Cairo two houses were purchased
+for him; one at Djyze and another at Beni Wayl,<a id="FNanchor_320"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_320">[133]</a> and they received from the treasury of
+Cairo seven hundred Dinars, a mare, a saddle, a bridle, a gilt
+sword, a rich habit, a silk turban, a cloke, and a shirt of the
+finest sort, and pieces of stuff for his delegates, which were not
+accounted for in the returns of the tribute. They had further to
+receive two loads,<a id="FNanchor_321"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_321">[134]</a> and from the collector of the Bakt a suit of
+clothes, and had, in their turn, to give to the latter, and to
+those who accompanied him, certain articles. Whatever might be
+given to them (beyond these fixed things) should be considered as
+presents, which they would return in the same manner. Upon enquiry
+El Motasem found that what was given to the Noubas by the Moslims
+exceeded the value of the Bakt; he therefore refused to give them
+any more wine, or to send them (the full amount of) the corn and
+the stuffs above mentioned; and he re-established the Bakt to be
+sent at intervals of every three years; and wrote to them a letter
+on that subject, which remained in their hands. The king of the
+Noubas demanded justice from some of the inhabitants of Assouan,
+who had purchased landed property from his slaves.<a id="FNanchor_322"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_322">[135]</a> El Motasem ordered inquiry to be made
+into it at Assouan,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_514">[514]</span>
+where the tribunal of the judge was. But the slaves being
+questioned, said, “We are his subjects, not his slaves,” and thus
+his suit was rejected. He then demanded among other things, that
+the military post at the Kaszer, which was situated within his
+territory, should be removed to the frontier; but this request was
+not granted. These stipulations continued to subsist between the
+Noubas and Egypt, and the Bakt was paid, and the returns given as
+Motasem had regulated them, until the Fatimites arrived in
+Egypt.—Thus far goes the relation of the Nubian historian.</p>
+
+<p>Abou Hassan el Masoudy<a id="FNanchor_323"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_323">[136]</a> relates:—The Bakt is the annual tribute of
+slaves which has been imposed upon the Noubas, and is received from
+them and carried to Egypt. It consists in three hundred and sixty
+five head of slaves to the public treasury, according to the tenour
+of the articles of peace between the Noubas and the Moslims.
+Besides these, the governor of Egypt receives forty head; his
+representative, who resides at Assouan, and collects the Bakt,
+twenty head; the governor of Assouan, who, together with him, is
+present at the collecting of the Bakt, five head, and the twelve
+trusty witnesses of the people of Assouan, who are to accompany the
+governor on this business, twelve head; the whole, according to the
+stipulations of the Bakt, when the Moslims and Noubas first
+concluded their treaty.</p>
+
+<p>El Beladiry, in his work entitled El Tetouhat,<a id="FNanchor_324"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_324">[137]</a> says: “the amount of the renewed tribute
+of the Noubas is four hundred slaves, for which they take in return
+victuals, that is to say, grain. The Emir of the true Believers, El
+Mohdy Mohammed Ibn Aly Djafar el Mansour,<a id="FNanchor_325"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_325">[138]</a> obliged them to pay three hundred and
+sixty head of slaves, and a Giraffa. The mischievous and
+troublesome behaviour of Daoud (David) the king of the Noubas, was
+principally manifested in the year of the Hejira 674. After he had
+committed great excesses at Aidab, he came with his army nearly as
+far as Assouan, and there burnt many water wheels. The governor of
+Kous marched against Daoud, but not meeting with him, laid hold of
+the Lord of the Mountain, and numbers of Noubas, whom he carried
+before the Sultan Daher Bybars el Bondokdary, at the Castle of
+Cairo, where their bodies were severed in two.
+Shekendy,<a id="FNanchor_326"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_326">[139]</a> the son of the King of Nouba’s sister, then
+came to implore assistance against the injustice which he had
+experienced from his uncle Daoud. The Sultan ordered the Emir
+Shams-eddyn Ak Soukor el Farekany, the intendant of his
+household,<a id="FNanchor_327"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_327">[140]</a> with the Emir Djandar Emir Oz-eddyn Aybek el
+Afram,<a id="FNanchor_328"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_328">[141]</a> to march together with
+Shekendy against Daoud, with a large army composed of the
+provincial horsemen,<a id="FNanchor_329"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_329">[142]</a> and of the Arabs of southern Egypt, and of
+lancers, bowmen, and fire-men.<a id="FNanchor_330"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_330">[143]</a> They left Cairo on the first of the month of
+Sheban. Upon their arrival in Nouba the enemy met them, mounted
+upon camels, armed with lances, and covered<span class="pagenum" id="Page_515">[515]</span> with black Dekadek.<a id="FNanchor_331"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_331">[144]</a> Both parties fought bravely, and the
+Noubas fled. El Afram now fell upon Kallat Addo,<a id="FNanchor_332"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_332">[145]</a> where he killed and took prisoners many
+of them. El Farakany penetrated into the interior of Nouba by land
+and by the river, killing or enslaving every body. He took an
+innumerable quantity of cattle, and alighted at the island of
+Mykayl, at the top of the cataracts;<a id="FNanchor_333"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_333">[146]</a> from whence he obliged the Nouba ships
+to retreat, while the Nouba themselves fled to the islands. He then
+wrote a promise of safe conduct to Kamr el Doula,<a id="FNanchor_334"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_334">[147]</a> the lieutenant of Daoud, who swore
+allegiance to the Shekendy, and brought back all the people of
+Merys, and the fugitives; after which El Afram crossed over a
+shallow part of the river, to a tower built in the water, which he
+besieged until he took it. Two hundred men were killed there, and a
+brother of Daoud was taken prisoner; Daoud fled, and was closely
+pursued for three days by the soldiers, who killed and took
+prisoners a great number on the road, until the people submitted.
+The mother and sister of Daoud were taken, but he himself escaped.
+Shekendy was now confirmed in his stead, and agreed to pay an
+annual personal tribute of three elephants, three giraffas, five
+female Fahed, one hundred camels of good race, and four hundred
+chosen cows,<a id="FNanchor_335"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_335">[148]</a> and that the soil of Nouba should
+thenceforward be divided into two parts;<a id="FNanchor_336"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_336">[149]</a> one half for the Sultan, and the other
+to be appropriated to the fertilizing and guarding of the country;
+excepting the territory of the cataracts, which was to belong
+entirely to the Sultan, on account of its vicinity to Assouan: this
+alone was about one-fourth of Nouba.<a id="FNanchor_337"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_337">[150]</a> Farther, that the dates and the cotton
+of this part, as well as the ancient customary duties, should be
+carried off, and that as long as they should remain Christians,
+they should pay the Djezye, or annual Om Dinar in cash, for every
+grown up person.<a id="FNanchor_338"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_338">[151]</a> There was a form of oath written out
+concerning these articles, by which Shekendy bound himself, and
+there was another by which his subjects swore. The two commanders
+destroyed the churches of Nouba,<a id="FNanchor_339"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_339">[152]</a> and carried away whatever they found in them.
+They seized about<span class="pagenum" id="Page_516">[516]</span>
+twenty of the chiefs of Nouba, and liberated the Moslims of Assouan
+and Aidab, who were captives in the hands of the Noubas. Shekendy
+was crowned, and seated on the throne of his kingdom, after he had
+taken his oath. He was obliged to send the property of Daoud, and
+that of all those who were killed or taken captives, whether money
+or cattle, to the Sultan, together with the usual Bakt. This
+consisted in an annual payment of a giraffa and of four hundred
+slaves, of whom three hundred and sixty were for the Khalif, and
+forty for his lieutenant at Cairo, with the condition that he
+should send them in return, upon the full receipt of the Bakt, one
+thousand Erdeybs of wheat to the king of Nouba, and three hundred
+to his delegates.<a id="FNanchor_340"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_340">[153]</a></p>
+
+<p class="center space-above15 space-below1"><em>Description of the
+Town of Assouan.</em><a id="FNanchor_341"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_341">[154]</a>
+</p>
+
+<p>It begins with some remarks on the etymology of the word
+Assouan, which is said to mean a person in grief. Assouan lies on
+the extremity of the territories of Sayd. It is one of the harbours
+of this province, and divides Nouba from the country of Egypt. In
+former times a great plenty of wheat, grain, fruits, vegetables,
+and pot herbs, was found here, together with abundance of camels,
+cows, and sheep, whose flesh is of peculiar good flavour and
+fatness. The prices of provisions were always very low. Goods and
+articles of trade were found here, that were transported to the
+country of Nouba. To the east there is not any Moslim country
+bordering on Assouan: to the south there is a mountain, in which
+are the mines of emeralds, in an insulated barren country. At
+fifteen days journey from Assouan are the gold mines.<a id="FNanchor_342"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_342">[155]</a> To the westward are the Oases. From
+Assouan a road leads to Aidab, from whence is the passage to the
+Hedjaz, and Yemen, and India. Masoudy relates: Assouan is inhabited
+by people of the Arabs Kahtan, Nezar Ibn Rabya, Modher, and Arabs
+of Koreysh, most of them transplanted from the Hedjaz.<a id="FNanchor_343"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_343">[156]</a> The town has abundance of date trees; it
+is fertile and rich. The date stone is put into the ground, and the
+tree grows out of it, and after (a certain number of) years they
+eat the fruit.<a id="FNanchor_344"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_344">[157]</a> The people of Assouan possess many villages
+within the confines of Nouba, the duties on which they pay to the
+king of Nouba. These villages were bought from the Noubas in the
+time of the Islam, during the reign of Beni Omeya and Beni Abbas.
+When El Mamoun arrived in Egypt, the king of Nouba asked for his
+protection against these people of Assouan, by means of emissaries
+whom he dispatched to Fostat. They complained to El Mamoun, that
+some villages of Nouba had been sold to their neighbours of
+Assouan; that these villages belonged to the king of Nouba, and
+that those who sold them were the king’s slaves, who possessed no
+property, and whose only business it was to take care of
+the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_517">[517]</span> cultivation.
+Mamoun referred them to the governor of Assouan, to the learned
+men, and Shikhs of that town. The people of Assouan who had bought
+the villages, perceiving that they were in danger of losing them,
+had recourse to a stratagem against the king of Nouba. They
+proposed to the Noubas who had sold the villages, when they
+appeared before the governor, to deny that they were slaves of the
+king, and to say, “the same relation exists between us and our
+king, O Moslims, as between you and your king. We owe him only
+submission, and are bound only not to contravene his orders. If
+you, therefore, are the slaves, and the property of your king, then
+we are the same.” They spoke other similar things, to which they
+had been prompted, and thus the sale was confirmed, and so it has
+remained until our times. The possession of these villages, in the
+territory of Merys in the country of Nouba, was transmitted by
+inheritance, and the Noubas, the subjects of the king, now became
+divided into two classes; the one, as we have stated, freemen, not
+slaves, and the other part slaves.<a id="FNanchor_345"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_345">[158]</a> The latter were those who did not dwell in
+this territory of Merys, which is in the neighbourhood of
+Assouan.</p>
+
+<p>Masoudy relates,<a id="FNanchor_346"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_346">[159]</a> that the Noubas were divided into two
+branches. The one dwelt on the two banks of the Nile; their
+territory bordered upon the territory of the Copts of Upper Egypt,
+and extended far up the river; they built, as the seat of their
+government, the large city of Dóngola. The other race of the Noubas
+is called Aloa, and they have built the large town of
+Serfeta.<a id="FNanchor_347"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_347">[160]</a> The country of Nouba, the territory of which
+borders upon the soil of Assouan, is called Merys, from which the
+Merysan wind takes its name.<a id="FNanchor_348"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_348">[161]</a></p>
+
+<p>On the east side of Upper Egypt is a large mountain of marble,
+from whence the ancients cut columns, and pedestals, and capitals,
+which the Egyptians call Assouanye, (the same name they also give
+to the mill-stones). The ancients wrought these things many hundred
+years before the appearance of Christianity, and among them are to
+be reckoned the columns of Alexandria.</p>
+
+<p>In the month of Zol Hadj, in the year 344, the king of Nouba
+attacked Assouan, and killed many Moslims. In the month of Moharran
+345, marched against him Mohammed Ibn Abdallah, the treasurer of
+the Egyptian army of El Wodjour, Ibn el Ak Shedy (king of Egypt),
+by land and by sea.<a id="FNanchor_349"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_349">[162]</a> He sent back many prisoners of the Noubas, who
+were beheaded at Cairo, after the king of Nouba had likewise met
+with his fate. He continued his march until he conquered Ibrim, and
+reduced its inhabitants to captivity, and he returned to Cairo with
+150 prisoners, and many heads, in the middle of the month of Djomad
+el Awal, 345.<a id="FNanchor_350"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_350">[163]</a></p>
+
+<p>The Kadhy el Fadhel states, that in the year 585, the income of
+the port of Assouan was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_518">[518]</span> 25,000 Dinars.<a id="FNanchor_351"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_351">[164]</a> Djaafar el Edfouy relates:<a id="FNanchor_352"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_352">[165]</a> at Assouan are 80 officers of the
+tribunal of justice, and Assouan produced in one year 30,000
+Erdeybs of dates. Somebody informed me that he had met with a
+writing that contained the names of 40 Sherifs of the purest race
+(of Assouan) and another in which there were 60, besides the rest.
+And (El Edfouy) says: “I have met with a writing, dated in the year
+620, that mentioned the names of 40 authors of Assouan.”</p>
+
+<p>At Assouan were settled the Beni el Kenz, a tribe of Rabya, very
+praiseworthy people, celebrated by many verses. El Fadhel el Sedyd
+Abou el Hassan Ibn Aram has written their history. When Salah eddyn
+Ibn Ayoub<a id="FNanchor_353"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_353">[166]</a> sent an army against Kenz el Doula<a id="FNanchor_354"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_354">[167]</a> and his party, they left this
+territory.<a id="FNanchor_355"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_355">[168]</a> The soldiers entered their houses, and found
+therein verses of those who had sung their praises, and among the
+rest a poem of Mohammed el Hassan Ibn Zebeyr, in which was this
+passage:</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0">They help him whom the times have
+betrayed or oppressed;</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">People they are, who never dwell where
+dishonour abides;</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">When they grant their protection, no man
+under the stars fears;</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">When they dispense with their generosity,
+no want remains upon the earth’s surface.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="nind">For which the author received 1000 Dinars, and a
+water-wheel (with its field) was entailed upon him, worth 1000
+Dinars.<a id="FNanchor_356"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_356">[169]</a> regular armed garrison
+had always been stationed at Assouan, to guard the harbour against
+the inroads of the Nouba, and the blacks. When the reign of the
+Fatimites terminated,<a id="FNanchor_357"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_357">[170]</a> this port was neglected. The king of Nouba,
+with 10,000 men, fell then again upon the island opposite
+Assouan,<a id="FNanchor_358"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_358">[171]</a> and took prisoners all its Moslim
+inhabitants.<a id="FNanchor_359"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_359">[172]</a> After this period the affairs of this harbour
+declined. After the year 790, the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_519">[519]</span> tribe of El Kenz became masters of it. They
+behaved vilely, and had many wars with the governors of this town,
+until the destructive epoch of 806.<a id="FNanchor_360"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_360">[173]</a> Upper Egypt was then ruined and
+depopulated, the Sultan drew off his hand from Assouan, and he no
+longer kept a governor there. It remained in a deserted state for
+many years. In the month of Moharram, of the year 815, the Arabs
+Howara<a id="FNanchor_361"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_361">[174]</a> proceeded to Assouan and
+attacked the Beni Kenz, and obliged them to fly.<a id="FNanchor_362"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_362">[175]</a> They killed many of them, and reduced to
+slavery all the women and children whom they took
+prisoners.<a id="FNanchor_363"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_363">[176]</a> They destroyed the walls of Assouan, departed
+with their captives, and left the city in ruins, without
+inhabitants. In this state the town remained, of which Selym el
+Assouany relates, that when Abd el Hamyd el Amry took the mines, he
+wrote to Assouan to demand from the merchants to supply him with
+provisions, upon which one man of the name of Othman Ibn Hauthale
+el Temymy, carried to him 1000 loads of provisions and corn. (Here
+follows a few other notices on Assouan of little interest.)</p>
+
+<p class="center space-above15 space-below1"><em>Belak.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>Belak is the last fortified place of the Moslims. It is an
+island in the neighbourhood of the cataract, surrounded by the
+Nile, with a large town upon it, well inhabited, with a number of
+date trees, and a Mambar (pulpit) in a mosque.<a id="FNanchor_364"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_364">[177]</a> Between this and the city called Kaszer,
+which is the first town of Nouba, is one mile, and between Assouan
+and Belak four miles. Between Assouan and Belak are cataracts in
+the river, over which the ships cannot pass but with great caution,
+and guided by the fishermen of these parts, who are acquainted with
+the passage. At the Kaszer is a garrison post, and it is a gate
+towards Nouba.</p>
+
+<p class="center space-above15 space-below1"><em>On the Desert of
+Aidab or Aizab.</em>
+</p>
+
+<p>The pilgrims from Egypt and Barbary remained upwards of 200
+years without taking any other road to Mekka, may God honour her,
+than by the desert of Aidab. They embarked on the Nile at the plain
+of Fostat, and ascended as far as Kous. From thence they mounted
+camels, and crossed this desert to Aidab, where they afterwards
+embarked in vessels for Djidda, on the coast of Mekka. In the same
+manner the merchants of India, and Yemen, and Habesh, arrived by
+this sea at Aidab, reached through this desert the town of Kous,
+and from thence Mesr. This desert continued to be peopled and
+frequented by caravans of merchants and of pilgrims going and
+coming, in so much that loads of spices and drugs, as<span class="pagenum" id="Page_520">[520]</span> pepper, cinnamon, and others
+were found on the road, while caravans were ascending and
+descending, and nobody touched them until their owner took them
+away.<a id="FNanchor_365"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_365">[178]</a> The pilgrims in going to
+Mekka and returning from thence, continued to frequent that road
+more than 200 years, from the year 453 and upwards, to the year 663
+and upwards, at which time happened the great misfortune during the
+reign of the Khalif Mostanser b’illah Aly Temim Mad Ibn el
+Dhaher,<a id="FNanchor_366"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_366">[179]</a> and the pilgrim caravans
+were interrupted by land and by sea until the Sultan Dhaher Roken
+eddyn Bybars el Bondokdary clothed again the Kaba, and made a key
+to it. A caravan then departed by land in the year 66—.<a id="FNanchor_367"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_367">[180]</a> But the passage of pilgrims through this
+desert became less frequent, although it continued to be the road
+by which the merchandises were carried from Aidab to Kous, until
+the year 760, when it was abandoned, after which the affairs of
+Kous declined. This desert from Kous to Aidab is seventeen days
+journey across, during which no water is found for three, and once
+for four, successive days.<a id="FNanchor_368"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_368">[181]</a> Aidab is a town on the coast of the sea of
+Djidda. It has no walls, and most of its houses are built of
+mats.<a id="FNanchor_369"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_369">[182]</a> It was formerly one of
+the first harbours of the world, because the ships from India and
+Yemen brought here their merchandise, and set sail again in company
+with the ships of the pilgrims that passed to and fro. When the
+Indian and Yemen ships ceased to arrive at this place, then Aden,
+of the Yemen, became the great harbour, until after 820 and
+upwards, Djidda became the first harbour of the world, and likewise
+Hormuz, which is a fine anchoring place. Aidab is situated in a
+desert devoid of any vegetation; all the provisions, even the
+water, are imported. Its inhabitants derived immense gains from the
+merchants and the pilgrims; they had certain established dues from
+every camel’s load belonging to the pilgrims,<a id="FNanchor_370"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_370">[183]</a> and hired their ships to them to cross
+over the sea to Djidda, and from thence back to Aidab; by which
+they accumulated great riches. There was no inhabitant of Aidab who
+had not one or more ships, in proportion to the amount of his
+property. In the sea of Aidab, at some islands in the vicinity of
+it, is a pearl fishery.<a id="FNanchor_371"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_371">[184]</a> The divers issue from Aidab every year at a
+fixed period, in small boats. Arrived at the island, they remain
+there some time, and come back with whatever has fallen to their
+good fortune. They find the pearls in water of little depth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_521">[521]</span>The people of
+Aidab live like brutes. They resemble in their character wild
+beasts more than human beings. The pilgrims are exposed during
+their sea voyage to terrible adventures. They usually meet with
+strong winds in distant and desert anchoring places to the
+south.<a id="FNanchor_372"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_372">[185]</a> The Bedja people then
+come down to them from their mountains and hire to them their
+camels, with which they travel without any supply of
+water.<a id="FNanchor_373"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_373">[186]</a> Many of them die from
+thirst, and the Bedjas take whatever they had with them. Others
+lose their road, and likewise die from thirst, and he who escapes
+reaches Aidab as if risen out of his winding sheet, and entirely
+altered in features and in body. No where perish more pilgrims than
+in these anchoring places. To others, but the smaller number, the
+wind is propitious, and carries them to Aidab. In the ships that
+carry the pilgrims, are no nails whatsoever. They sew the planks
+with the Kombar, which is made of the cocoa tree,<a id="FNanchor_374"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_374">[187]</a> and drive into them wooden pegs made of
+the date tree; after which they pour butter over them, or the oil
+of the Kheroa,<a id="FNanchor_375"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_375">[188]</a> or the fat of the Kersh,<a id="FNanchor_376"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_376">[189]</a> which is a very large sea fish that
+swallows up the drowned. The sails of these ships are made of the
+mats of the tree Mokel.<a id="FNanchor_377"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_377">[190]</a> The inhabitants of Aidab use all kind of
+devilish practices with the pilgrims. Anxious for the fare, they
+load their ships with passengers one above the other, and never
+care about what may happen to them at sea, saying, on the contrary:
+“to us belongs the care of the ships, and to the pilgrims that of
+their own selves.”<a id="FNanchor_378"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_378">[191]</a> The inhabitants of Aidab are of the Bedja, and
+have a king of that nation, and a governor named by the Sultan of
+Egypt. I have seen myself their Kadhy at Cairo, a man of black
+colour. The Bedjas have no religion, and are people of no
+understanding. Their males and females go constantly naked, with
+some rags round their loins, but many of them have no covering
+whatever. The heat is very great at Aidab, on account of the
+burning Simoum. (V. <a href="#nb">note <em>b</em></a> at the
+end.)</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<p class="pb">
+</p>
+
+<div>
+<h3><span class="pagenum" id="Page_522">[522]</span><span class="letter-spaced01">NOTES.</span>
+</h3>
+
+<hr class="decordb width12 spaced2">
+
+<div class="appendix">
+<p class="space-above15">(1.) <a id="n01"></a>This work of Ibn
+Selym I have in vain searched for in Egypt. Its title is well
+known; at Assouan and at Derr in Nubia, I found that some people
+knew it by name, but I never could find any body who had seen
+it.</p>
+
+<p>(1.*) (see <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_494">p. 494</a>). I
+am led to believe, from different circumstances, that the Mokel
+here meant is the Doum. Wahyshe speaks of a tree called the blue
+Mokel, or Mokel el Azrek, which he says resembles the quince tree,
+has no fruit or flower, but emits from its trunk a fluid that has a
+good odour, and is used as a perfume. This tree, he adds, is
+principally found in Barbary. Of the Mokel simply so called,
+Wahyshe says that it produces a gum which is used by the Arabs as a
+mixture with perfumes, and that it grows in Arabia. He no farther
+describes the tree. I am ignorant whether the Doum produces a
+gum.</p>
+
+<p>(2.) <a id="n02"></a>Selt (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سلت</span>) is a species of barley. In an abridgment of Ibn
+Wahyshe’s translation of the Agriculture of the
+Nabateans,<a id="FNanchor_379"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_379">[192]</a> it is said that the Selt requires a hard stony
+soil and little water. (The country of Bedja would therefore be
+well fitted for it.) The bread made of it is of difficult
+digestion.</p>
+
+<p>(3.) <a id="n03"></a>The expression of the author (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">فيعتقبون الارض لفيقها</span>) may likewise mean,
+that the first cultivator makes room for another, who sows in the
+same spot after him.</p>
+
+<p>(4.) <a id="n04"></a>Djawars or Djawarsh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جاورس</span> or <span class="arabic" lang="ar">جاورش</span>). A grain unknown to me, and, I believe, unknown
+in Egypt. The above cited author says that it requires a well
+watered soil to prosper; and that it is like Dhourra.</p>
+
+<p>(5.) <a id="n05"></a>I find this name spelt Bedjrash, Bahrash,
+Narash, Bakhrash, Nadjrash. The two first occur most
+frequently.</p>
+
+<p>(6.) <a id="n06"></a>The sense of this passage is not clear in
+my MSS. <span class="arabic" lang="ar">من قال حتي ان عظيمهم اذا
+جزبها و قف به المسلمي و اوهم افه يفتّش عليه حتي يجد الطريق الي و
+لده او وزيره و من دو نهما</span>.—In another copy I find
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اذا حاربها و قف بها</span>.</p>
+
+<p>(7.) <a id="n07"></a>The Sembad is a stone still used in Egypt
+by jewellers and goldsmiths to give a polish; but it is imported
+from India and not from Nubia.</p>
+
+<p>(8.) <a id="n08"></a>This ruin of Say I have not seen myself, as
+I could find no boat to carry me over. But I saw from a distance an
+ancient castle-like edifice among the palm groves.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_523">[523]</span>(9.) <a id="n09"></a>This corresponds to the country of Mahass.</p>
+
+<p>(10.) <a id="n10"></a>I find this word written Yonso, Benso,
+Noso. Perhaps Mosho, the frontier town of Dóngola is meant. The
+extent of the Merysy language is perfectly well indicated here.</p>
+
+<p>(11.) <a id="n11"></a>I find it spelt likewise Yaoun
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">يعون</span>). The description of
+this country agrees well with the present state of the country of
+Dóngola.</p>
+
+<p>(12.) <a id="n12"></a>Taghtit and Nouby are, I believe,
+different species of the parrot. The term Babagh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ببغ</span>), which I have translated here by
+parrot, is given to a small green parrot of the size of a
+black-bird. The Sennaar caravans bring them to Cairo. Some of them
+are found at Sennaar, but the greater part come from the
+neighbourhood of Shilluk, on the Nil el Abyadh. I never saw any
+wild parrots in any part of Nubia.</p>
+
+<p>(13.) <a id="n13"></a>I find this written likewise Sendykal and
+Sefdabkal (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سنديقل</span>,
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سفدبقل</span>).</p>
+
+<p>(14.) <a id="n14"></a>The Sant is a well known species of
+Mimosa, very common in Upper Egypt and all over Nubia. The wood
+Sadj is of a dark brown colour, and very hard. Articles of
+furniture are manufactured from it at Bombay and Surat, and are
+exported to Djidda, from whence they are sent to Cairo. According
+to Masoudy, in his Golden Meadows (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مروج الزهب</span>), the Sadj is a very large tree, larger than
+the palm or the walnut tree.<a id="FNanchor_380"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_380">[193]</a></p>
+
+<p>(15.) <a id="n15"></a>The Arabic reads <span class="arabic" lang="ar">ولقد رايت علي بعضها علامة عربية</span>, and another copy
+has: <span class="arabic" lang="ar">علامة غريبة</span>, which would
+mean, I have seen myself on several of them very curious signs of
+workmanship.</p>
+
+<p>(16.) <a id="n16"></a>Instead of Shenka and Shenkyr, I find
+these words also written Sheka, Shekfyr, and Shenfyr.</p>
+
+<p>(17.) <a id="n17"></a>This name is written in a different
+manner, every time that it occurs. Nadha, Nasza, Madha, Badha
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ناضع</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">ناصع</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">ماضع</span>,
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">باضع</span>). Shultens, in the
+extracts he gives from Masoudy in his Monumenta, has adopted the
+reading of Nasza, which he calls Nazoa. It is no doubt a harbour on
+the coast of Abyssinia, or on the coast between Souakin and Dahlak.
+If on the coast of Abyssinia, the names of Massouah, or as it may
+likewise be written, Masōa (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مصوع</span>), or Madyr, in the bay of Amphila, two days
+journey south of Massouah, which, according to Mr. Salt, is a much
+frequented port, are the nearest corresponding to it in sound. If,
+on the contrary, a harbour is meant north of Massouah or Dahlak, it
+seems, from Capt. Court’s map, that the only good harbour on that
+coast is Port Mornington, of which it is to be regretted that we
+are not acquainted with the native name.</p>
+
+<p>(18.) <a id="n18"></a>The Beni Omeya and Koreysh, who fled from
+Mekka into Abyssinia, are meant here.</p>
+
+<p>(19.) <a id="n19"></a>I find this city spelt Maafa, Naka, Yafa
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">معافة</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">ناقه</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">يافه</span>);
+in Arabic MSS. the points over the consonants of proper names are
+very often misplaced. I read here Tafa (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تافة</span>),<span class="pagenum" id="Page_524">[524]</span>
+because, at one long day’s journey from Assouan is a ruined town of
+that name, which I have mentioned in my journal. More considerable
+remains of private habitations are seen there than any where else
+between the cataracts, and likewise several small temples.
+Descendants of ancient Christian families are still found here
+among the tribe of Kenz, who inhabit these parts.</p>
+
+<p>(20.) <a id="n20"></a>Of this word are different readings. I
+find it spelt Nara in two copies, and Zonara in one: (from the
+latter word Sennaar might perhaps be derived.) <span class="arabic" lang="ar">نارة</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">زناره</span>.</p>
+
+<p>(21.) <a id="n21"></a>These pigeons are called Narein or Bazein
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نارين</span> or <span class="arabic" lang="ar">بازين</span>). I prefer the former name, as
+being derived from the name of Nara.</p>
+
+<p>(22.) <a id="n22"></a>The Bekam is a dye wood that comes to
+Cairo by the way of the Red Sea, from India and the Somauly coast.
+I believe it to be the logwood.</p>
+
+<p>(23.) <a id="n23"></a>The Kena (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قناة</span>, plur. <span class="arabic" lang="ar">قنا</span>)
+is the cane of which the shafts of lances are made.</p>
+
+<p>(24.) <a id="n24"></a>The Arabic name of <span class="arabic" lang="ar">سرداب</span>, is applied to cellars, caverns, grottos,
+and subterraneous passages, the work of men and not of nature.</p>
+
+<p>(25.) <a id="n25"></a>To place Meroe between the Nile and the
+Atbara, where Shendy lays, is totally inconsistent with the nature
+of the ground. For, instead of the fertile island, we find there
+only a narrow border of cultivated ground, close by the river,
+while the whole country from thence to the Atbara is a desert,
+barren soil. I believe that the distances given by Herodotus will
+be found to agree very well with the position of the island
+described by Selym.</p>
+
+<p>(26.) <a id="n26"></a>This theory of the rise of the Nile is
+certainly more natural than the theory of Herodotus, Strabo, or
+Diodorus Siculus. The remarkable fact that the Nile rises every
+where at the same time is universally believed in Egypt, and the
+first day after the Khamseyin, or the 18th-20th of June is stated
+all over Egypt as the day of rise. To make exact researches on that
+subject would require several observers stationed in different
+spots, and making their observations on the rise of the river at
+the same time. I am ignorant whether the French savants have done
+it.</p>
+
+<p>(27.) <a id="n27"></a>The explanation which I have given of this
+passage appears to me the only reasonable one. I do not find the
+term of Ras Hofra applied to the Cape of Guardafui by the Arabian
+geographers, who usually call this promontory Djebel Mandeb. But I
+find in Edrisy a passage that supports my opinion of this cape
+being designated here by the name of Ras Hofra. He says (Geog. Nub.
+i. 6.) in speaking of the Djebel Mandeb: “on the back of this
+mountain is a cave, which if once entered, none comes out again, on
+account of some beast that devours him, or on account of pits
+(Hofer, the plural of Hofra), into which he falls.”<a id="FNanchor_381"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_381">[194]</a></p>
+
+<p>(28.) <a id="n28"></a>Northwards is here rendered by the word
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بحري</span>, Bahry, which is the
+usual word applied to the north by the Egyptians, who have the
+Mediterranean or el Bahr always to the north.</p>
+
+<p>(29.) <a id="n29"></a>The different readings of this name are,
+Souba, Souya, (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سوية</span>,
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سوبة</span>). I strongly suspect it
+to be the same city which is called below Serfeta, Serketa, Serkya
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">سرقيه</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">سرقته</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">سرفته</span>), as a copyist might easily make that
+mistake.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_525">[525]</span>(30.) <a id="n30"></a>Edrys, in describing Nubia, speaks of a town called
+Ghaloa (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">غلوه</span>), which he
+places much farther down the Nile than this Aloa, although I
+believe that the latter is meant. The point over the <span class="arabic" lang="ar">ع</span> makes the sole difference.</p>
+
+<p>(31.) <a id="n31"></a>This I find written Korsa, Kortyna, and
+Koroma (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كرما</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">كرتينا</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">كرسا</span>). I have chosen the latter appellation, because it
+is an Arabic word, meaning “the generous,” an epithet that might
+well be given to the Meroe shepherds.</p>
+
+<p>(32.) <a id="n32"></a>This town is likewise spelt Zerla
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">زرلا</span>). I prefer
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">زلا</span>), as similarly
+corresponding in sound to Zeyla; and if under the country of Kanem
+we must understand here the whole of the middle part of northern
+Africa, the author is quite right in stating that the nearest place
+to Egypt is Zela, (or Zeyla) because this was no doubt the nearest
+place on the caravan road, although it might not be so in a
+straight direction.</p>
+
+<p>(33.) <a id="n33"></a>This is likewise spelt Wandy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">وندي</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">دندي</span>).</p>
+
+<p>(34.) <a id="n34"></a>I find this name written likewise Djezye
+or Herye (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جزية</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">حريه</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">خربه</span>).</p>
+
+<p>(35.) <a id="n35"></a>The work of Djaheth alluded to here, is
+probably his natural history.</p>
+
+<p>(36.) <a id="n36"></a>The existence of these emerald mines has
+lately been authenticated by an European traveller. (V. <a href="#n82">note 82.</a>)</p>
+
+<p>(37.) <a id="n37"></a> <span class="arabic" lang="ar">هذا عرش
+فُلان</span>, may mean “this is the tent covering, or the tent
+pole, or the panoply, of such a man.” In one of the MSS. it is
+written <span class="arabic" lang="ar">عرس</span>; which would
+mean, “this is the wedding of such a one.” But the allusion to the
+tent is preferable, because it was therein that the guest was
+defrauded or ill treated.</p>
+
+<p>(38.) <a id="n38"></a>I am not acquainted with the tree Shohat
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شوحظ</span>), but I find in the
+dictionary that it is a kind of yew tree. Wahyshe, in the above
+cited work, says that it is a fine looking tree which grows to a
+considerable height, with yellow leaves, shaped like those of the
+apple tree; its wood is of a spotted colour, black and white, of
+which the Persians and Arabs formerly made great use.</p>
+
+<p>(39.) <a id="n39"></a>In a small minerological treatise of
+Tyfashy (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">خواص الاحجار ليو سف
+التيفاشي</span>), I find the Hamest mentioned as a stone used in
+polishing sword blades, and other arms, and likewise to cut with.
+It is added, that this stone is principally found in the valley of
+Szafra, in the Hedjaz.</p>
+
+<p>(40.) <a id="n40"></a>Under Ahlylid, I believe the Myrobolan to
+be understood, although it is not quite certain whether this is
+really the tree. Ibn Wahyshe describes four different species of
+it; the Indian, which is divided into two species, the yellow and
+black; and the Kabely, which is likewise of two sorts, black and
+white.</p>
+
+<p>(41.) <a id="n41"></a>The Adkher or Azkher (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ادخر</span> or <span class="arabic" lang="ar">اذخر</span>), is, according to Wahyshe, a shrub growing in
+deserts. It is odoriferous, with a red flower or rose. Its seed is
+a narcotic and an astringent. The plant is not unknown at Cairo.
+Amongst the charcoal rolled up in mats which is sent to Cairo from
+Upper Egypt, where it is collected principally by the Arabs Ababde,
+who live in the mountains south of Kenne and Kosseir, some branches
+of this Adkher are often met with, and are bought up by the
+druggists. In Azraky’s history of Mekka, I find that it grows
+likewise in the Hedjaz, and that formerly the Mekkans mixed it with
+the mortar (or to burn the mortar), with which they built their
+houses and their tombs, or perhaps they burnt the mortar with
+it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_526">[526]</span>(42.) <a id="n42"></a>The Shyh is the Artemisia; and is found in most deserts,
+for I have seen it in those of the Euphrates, of Arabia petræa, of
+the Hedjaz, of Nubia, and it is likewise found in Libya. It is one
+of the favorite herbs of the camels. In the Syrian deserts it is
+burnt by the Arabs, and the alkali procured from it is exported to
+the Syrian towns, where it is used in the manufacture of soap.</p>
+
+<p>(43.) <a id="n43"></a>The Senna and coloquintida are mentioned
+in different parts of my journal.</p>
+
+<p>(44.) <a id="n44"></a>El Ban, a species of tamarisk, I believe.
+Wahyshe says it produces a pulse, the shape of which is like that
+of a lupin, and the bean like a pistaccio nut. It has a green
+flower.</p>
+
+<p>(45.) <a id="n45"></a>The Fahed is a beast of prey, which,
+according to Damyry, in his Zoology, is called Heyat el Heywan
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حيوة الحيوان للدميري</span>), and
+is born of the tiger and the lion. Its propensity to sleep has
+become proverbial among the Arabs. The Khalifs of Bagdad and the
+governors of Mekka used it to hunt game.<a id="FNanchor_382"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_382">[195]</a></p>
+
+<p>(46.) <a id="n46"></a>Anak el Ardh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عناق الارض</span>), according to the same, is an animal
+smaller than the Fahed, of the size of a small dog. It has a long
+back. It hunts every thing, even birds. It is probably a weazel or
+a martern. Damyry adds, that it belongs to the species of the lion,
+and that it is likewise called Teffa (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تفّه</span>).</p>
+
+<p>(47.) <a id="n47"></a>At Cairo the name of Komary is given to a
+species of turtle dove, with a ring of white or coloured feathers
+round the neck. They are scarce in Egypt.</p>
+
+<p>(48.) <a id="n48"></a>I do not know what is meant by the Habesh
+fowl. In Egypt a species of fowl is distinguished by the name of
+Bedja fowl (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دجاجه البحر</span>),
+which is somewhat larger than other fowls, but is indigenous in the
+country.</p>
+
+<p>(49.) <a id="n49"></a>Perhaps the people called Nara (v.
+<a href="#n20">note 20</a>) are meant here; or else it is from this
+race of Baza, that the name of the pigeon Bazein derives its origin
+(v. <a href="#n21">note 21.</a>)</p>
+
+<p>(50.) <a id="n50"></a>In my journal, in speaking of Souakin, I
+have mentioned these Hadareb; but, according to the manner in which
+I saw their name spelt then, I wrote them Hadherebe (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حضارب</span>) and not Hadareb. I have stated
+that they are a colony from Hadhramout, at least this is
+universally affirmed by themselves. From what is said here, it
+should seem that they are Bedjas, or at least very ancient settlers
+in that country.</p>
+
+<p>(51.) <a id="n51"></a>From the manner in which Nadha is
+mentioned here, with regard to Dahlak, it should appear that both
+places are distant from each other, and that Nadha, or Madha, or
+Maza, cannot therefore be Massouah (V. <a href="#n17">note
+17.</a>)</p>
+
+<p>(52.) <a id="n52"></a>It seems that at that time, as at present,
+people were found among the Djidda inhabitants who spoke Bedja or
+the Bisharein language. Many Djidda people are established even now
+at Souakin, and return home after having made a small fortune with
+the trade in slaves and Soudan merchandise.</p>
+
+<p>(53.) <a id="n53"></a>Instead of <span class="arabic" lang="ar">في عدة قوية و رجال منتخبة</span>, one of the copies has
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">في عدة قليلة</span>, which would
+mean, with a small but well chosen force. <span class="arabic" lang="ar">عدة</span> means the equipment of an army or numbers.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_527">[527]</span>(54.) <a id="n54"></a>The Discourse of el Ahbās: <span class="arabic" lang="ar">خطبة الاحباس</span>.—<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الاحباس</span>, has the same signification as <span class="arabic" lang="ar">الاوقاف</span>, and means property bequeathed
+for pious or beneficent purposes. It is probably a small treatise
+in which the different decisions which Aly gave on that subject
+have been collected.</p>
+
+<p>(55.) <a id="n55"></a>It should appear therefore that the famous
+mines of Ollaky contain gold dust, and no ore.</p>
+
+<p>(56.) <a id="n56"></a>The extracts which Macrizi has here given
+from Masoudy’s excellent work, called Meroudj e’dahab, or the
+Golden Meadows, are made from different parts of it. The great work
+of that historian, called Akhbar e’Zaman (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اخبار الزمان</span>), which I suspect is one of the
+richest treasures of Arabian literature, is not extant in Egypt. A
+Shikh from Cairo told me that he had seen above 20 volumes in
+quarto of it,<a id="FNanchor_383"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_383">[196]</a> in the library of the mosque of St. Sophia at
+Constantinople.</p>
+
+<p>(57.) <a id="n57"></a>Arteyt, or Arneyb (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ارتيت</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">ارنيب</span>).</p>
+
+<p>(58.) <a id="n58"></a>This does not agree with the statement
+above, that their colour has a yellow tinge. I believe the colour
+of the Bedjas and that of the Habesh people to be much the same,
+from the many individuals of the latter whom I have seen at Mekka.
+The people of the Amhara province of Abyssinia are certainly less
+black than the Bedjas.</p>
+
+<p>(59.) <a id="n59"></a>Thus I translate <span class="arabic" lang="ar">و كان القصر فرضة القوص</span>. The word <span class="arabic" lang="ar">فرضة</span>, is still applied in Egypt and in
+the Hedjaz to designate the income of the custom-house.</p>
+
+<p>(60.) <a id="n60"></a>I call the conqueror of Egypt Amr, because
+his name is thus pronounced by the Arabs, and not Amrou, as the
+Europeans pronounce it. The <span class="arabic" lang="ar">و</span>
+at the end of <span class="arabic" lang="ar">عمرو</span>, which is
+added to distinguish the name from <span class="arabic" lang="ar">عمر</span>, Omar, is never pronounced.</p>
+
+<p>(61.) <a id="n61"></a>Slinging machines (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مجانيق</span>), to throw stones, appear to have been used
+by the Arabs in very ancient times. Some time after the death of
+Mohammed, the rebel Yezyd defended himself at Mekka against Ibn
+Zebeyr with similar machines. (V. Azraky’s History of Mekka).</p>
+
+<p>(62.) <a id="n62"></a>The different names recorded in these
+notices of Nubian kings, are all Greek or Christian names. In an
+odd volume of Macrizi’s “ancient history of Egypt,” called Akhbar
+Messr fi Ed-daher Elawel (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اخبار مصر
+في الدهر الاول</span>), in the chapter of “the titles and surnames
+given to the kings of different nations,” I find it stated, that
+the name of the ancient kings of Nouba was always Kabyl
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">كابيل</span>), in the same manner
+as Hatty was the name given to the kings of Abyssinia, Toba to
+those of the Hemyar race of Yemen, &amp;c. &amp;c. This volume of a
+work of Macrizi’s, which I believe is no where found complete in
+Egypt, is the more valuable, because it is written by the author’s
+own hand, with many notes and corrections.<a id="FNanchor_384"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_384">[197]</a> It belongs to the library of Seyd
+Mahrouky, the first merchant of Cairo, who has the finest
+collection of books in Egypt, and which he is continually
+enlarging, although he has given them to a mosque lately built by
+him.</p>
+
+<p>(63.) <a id="n63"></a>In the history of Bahnase (Oxyrinchus),
+and that of its valorous defence against the Arab conquerors of
+Egypt, I find it stated, that a large army of Bedjas and Noubas,
+headed by Maksouh, king of Bedja, and Ghalyk, king of Nouba, came
+to the assistance of the Christian chief, Batlos, who was besieged
+at Bahnase, by the officers of Amr Ibn el Aas. This black
+army<span class="pagenum" id="Page_528">[528]</span> is said to
+have consisted of 50,000 men. They had with them 1,300 elephants,
+each bearing upon its back a vaulted house made of leather, in
+which 10 men took their post in the battle. In the company of the
+Bedjas were a race of men of gigantic stature, called El Kowad
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">القواد</span>), coming from beyond
+Souakin. They were covered with tiger skins, and in their upper
+lips copper rings were fixed. The Moslims defeated this army. There
+is a strange mixture of truth and romance in this history, but the
+arrival of the Bedja army is so well authenticated by a train of
+witnesses, that little doubt can remain of its having really taken
+place; although the number both of men and elephants seems to be
+exaggerated. The elephants of southern Nubia are, as far as I know,
+no longer used to ride upon.</p>
+
+<p>(64.) <a id="n64"></a>I am unacquainted with the wine measure
+called Kanyr.</p>
+
+<p>(65.) <a id="n65"></a>Or Bahbas (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بحنس</span>—<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بحبس</span>).</p>
+
+<p>(66.) <a id="n66"></a>The text has <span class="arabic" lang="ar">ان اسوان اشتروا املاقاً من عبيده</span>. The word <span class="arabic" lang="ar">املاق</span> (Emlak, plural of Malaka) is used
+in Egypt as synonymous with <span class="arabic" lang="ar">بلاد</span>, or <span class="arabic" lang="ar">ضياع</span>,
+villages. It is likewise used as a measure of distance, and the
+peasants say, “such a place is distant so many Emlak from another,”
+meaning that so many villages intervene between the two points.
+According to the greater or lesser population of the province, the
+villages are farther from or nearer to each other. A Malaka in
+Upper Egypt may be taken for one hour and a half, and in Lower
+Egypt for one hour.</p>
+
+<p>(67.) <a id="n67"></a>I find this name written in my MSS.
+Shekende, Sekebde, Tenekde, Sekende, (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">شكندة</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">سكبدة</span>,
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">تنكدة</span>, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">سكنده</span>).</p>
+
+<p>(68.) <a id="n68"></a>The intendant of his household, or Istedar
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">استدار</span>). Syouty, in his
+description of Egypt, called Hossn el Mohādhera (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حسن المحاضرة</span>) says, in his chapter of the
+officers at court, that the Istedar has under his inspection the
+household establishment of the Sultan of Egypt, in as far as
+relates to domestic affairs, expenses, and dress. He is one of the
+great officers at court.</p>
+
+<p>(69.) <a id="n69"></a>Djanedar (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جاندار</span>) I believe to be a chief of soldiers, from the
+word Djend, (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جند</span>).</p>
+
+<p>(70.) <a id="n70"></a>Provincial horsemen, <span class="arabic" lang="ar">اجناد الولايات</span>. The word <span class="arabic" lang="ar">جند</span>, or <span class="arabic" lang="ar">جندي</span>, is at present applied in Egypt exclusively to a
+horseman, in opposition to <span class="arabic" lang="ar">عسكري</span>, a foot soldier. I do not know how far back this
+use of the word <span class="arabic" lang="ar">جند</span> may date,
+which originally means a soldier of any kind, whether cavalry or
+infantry.</p>
+
+<p>(71.) <a id="n71"></a>Kallat Addo (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قلعة الدو</span>), or the castle Addo, is no doubt the same
+mentioned before, in the description of Nouba, under the name of
+Addoa, which I believe to be the castle of Adde.</p>
+
+<p>(72.) <a id="n72"></a>From this Moslim name it should seem that
+the Noubas had Moslims in their service; and it is not surprising
+that they should go over to the enemy.</p>
+
+<p>(73.) <a id="n73"></a>We have seen above that a giraffa had
+already been sent in tribute by the Noubas to the Kalif el Mohdy.
+Masoudy, in his chapter on the Negroe nations, in the Golden
+Meadows, says that it was the custom in the time of the Abassides,
+to present them with giraffas. Djaheth, in his natural history,
+called “The Animals” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">الحيوان</span>),<a id="FNanchor_385"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_385">[198]</a> says that the Giraffas are no where found
+in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_529">[529]</span> the world, but
+in the southern Nouba country. The southern parts of Africa were
+unknown to the Arabs.</p>
+
+<p>(74.) <a id="n74"></a>The notices of these Arab tribes is
+interesting, because it shows how this part of Africa came to be
+peopled by them, and explains why we find on the Nile, in Kordofan,
+Darfour, and Borgho, pure Arabian blood. In speaking of the Bedjas,
+the author has already mentioned the tribes of Modher (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">مُضر</span>), Rabya, and Djeheyne, who
+intermixed with the Bedjas. Of the Djeheyne, some appear to have
+wandered farther on towards Darfour, where I have heard that they
+are still settled, and of whom I have myself seen an individual at
+Cairo. I have stated in my first journal through Nubia, that the
+few inhabitants of the Batn el Hadjar, above the second cataract,
+trace their origin from the tribe of Koreysh, no doubt descendants
+of those who were settled in the neighbourhood of Assouan. In the
+chapter on Upper Egypt, which precedes these notices on Nubia,
+Macrizi states, “the most numerous and potent tribes of Upper Egypt
+were six: Beni Helal, Bily, Djeheyna, Koresh, Howata, and Beni
+Kelab. Besides these great tribes, many of the Anzar<a id="FNanchor_386"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_386">[199]</a> alighted in these parts, and many from
+the tribes of Mezeyna, Beni Deradj, Beni Keleb, Thalebe, and
+Djezam.” Almost all these tribes can still be traced in Egypt and
+its neighbouring country. Beni Helal have retired to Barbary, where
+they are very powerful; I do not believe that any of them remain in
+Egypt at present.<a id="FNanchor_387"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_387">[200]</a> The Bily are found in the province of Sherkye
+in Lower Egypt. The Djeheyne are in the same province, and some
+descendants of them have a few poor encampments in the plains of
+Kous and Goft in Upper Egypt. The Koreysh, as I have said before,
+are met with in Nubia<a id="FNanchor_388"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_388">[201]</a> Some of the Beni Kelab are at present
+cultivators in several villages in the vicinity of Miniet in Upper
+Egypt. The Mezeyna, a strong tribe of Beni Harb, still living in
+the desert east of Medina, are likewise found in the peninsula of
+Mount Sinai. Several peasant tribes of the Sherkye<a id="FNanchor_389"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_389">[202]</a> claim descent from the Rabya, a tribe
+that accompanied Amr Ibn el Aas to Egypt, and had the principal
+share in the conquest of the country. And the Beni Kenz, a branch
+of these Rabya, are still settled above the cataract of Assouan,
+forming part of the nation commonly called Berábera in Egypt, a
+name which, as I have stated in my journal, is given to them by the
+Egyptians only, and is not their own.<a id="FNanchor_390"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_390">[203]</a> The history of the emigration of the
+Arab tribes into<span class="pagenum" id="Page_530">[530]</span>
+Mesopotamia, Syria, Egypt, Barbary, and Soudan, would throw great
+light upon the race of these nations, and in Egypt in particular,
+we should find that the Ethiopian blood is not the aboriginal of
+the nation, as some ingenious authors have asserted. From Syout to
+Assouan the country is exclusively inhabited by Arab tribes; on the
+west bank as high up as Orment, and on the east side as high as
+Kenne, live peasant tribes who state their origin to be from
+Barbary Bedouins; farther south, tribes from Arabia are found, as
+the Hāmede, Djaafere, Rowādjah, and others.</p>
+
+<p>(75.) <a id="n75"></a>I believe the town of Souba to be here
+meant, (v. <a href="#n29">note 29</a>) of which Selym el Assouany
+speaks, as being the capital of Aloa. In my manuscript of Masoudy,
+which I have compared, the name of this town is spelt Serfeta. The
+MSS. of Macrizi call it Serketa, Serkya, and another MS. of
+Masoudy, belonging to the library of the mosque of Mohamed Beg at
+Cairo, has not accentuated the word at all.</p>
+
+<p>(76.) <a id="n76"></a>The Merysan wind is still well known in
+Egypt. The name is applied to chilly, violent south winds, which
+take place in Egypt in the month of Touba, or January; and which in
+Lower Egypt are often followed or preceded by showers. The south
+winds prevailing from March to June, are called simply, southerly
+winds (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ريح قبلي</span>), and the
+name of Merysan wind is exclusively given to those of Touba, which
+are always cold, and are much disliked by the people of
+Cairo.<a id="FNanchor_391"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_391">[204]</a></p>
+
+<p>(77.) <a id="n77"></a>It is probable that the Beni Kenz then
+first entered Nubia, where they have closely intermixed with the
+inhabitants, and adopted their Merysan language. I have stated in
+my journal, that the Kenz of Nubia still assert their origin to be
+from Arabia, although few, if any of them, are acquainted with
+their history. Here it appears therefore that they belong to the
+Rabya.</p>
+
+<p>I find in Macrizi’s history, called el Selouk,<a id="FNanchor_392"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_392">[205]</a> ad annum 569, and in a short note of
+Macrizi’s treatise of the Kalifs who performed the pilgrimage
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">رسالته من حج من الخُلفَا والسلاطين
+للمقريزي</span>) that in the year 568-69, A. H. Shams eddyn Touran
+Shah, a brother of Salah eddyn, made an incursion into Nubia from
+Yemen.</p>
+
+<p>(77.)</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0"><span class="arabic" lang="ar">و ينجد ه
+ان خانه الدهر او سطا</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0"><span class="arabic" lang="ar">اناسٌ اذا
+ما انجد الذل اتهموا</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0"><span class="arabic" lang="ar">اجار وا
+فما تحت الكواكب خايفٌ</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0"><span class="arabic" lang="ar">اجادوا فما
+فوق السيطه معدم</span>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_531">[531]</span>The second line,
+literally translated, is “People they are who go to Tehama, when
+dishonour (or ignominy) goes to Nedjed.” That is to say, they
+retire to the side opposite to dishonour. Nedjed receives its name
+from being an elevated country, in opposition to Tehama, the sea
+coast of Yemen and Hedjaz. In translating it in this manner, I am
+warranted by a verse of Abou Temama el Tāy, in which he says,</p>
+
+<div class="linegrp-container">
+<div class="linegrp">
+<div class="group">
+<div class="line indent0 center"><span class="arabic" lang="ar">وانجد تموا من بعد اتهام دار كم</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">You have turned to Nedjed after your
+mansion was in Tehama.</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0 center"><span class="arabic" lang="ar">فيا
+دمع انجد ني علي ساكني نجد</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="line indent0">O tears! help me against the inhabitants
+of Nedjed.</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p>(78.) <a id="n78"></a>The author of these verses, which convey
+the highest praise that can be given to an Arab, is probably the
+same Ibn Zebeyr who is known as the author of a history of
+Assouan.</p>
+
+<p>(79.) <a id="n79"></a>I suppose this attack to be that mentioned
+by the Egyptian historians, to have taken place in the time of the
+before mentioned Salah eddyn; of which I however know no more
+particulars, than that during his reign the King of Nouba fell upon
+Assouan.</p>
+
+<p>(80.) <a id="n80"></a>The Arab tribe of Howara (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">هوارة</span>) occupy all the villages on both
+sides of the Nile from near Siout up to Farshiout and Haou on the
+west, and to near Kenne on the east; at least the principal and
+most wealthy peasants of these villages belong to that tribe. Until
+the time of Mohammed Aly they were very powerful, and a branch of
+them, the Oulad Yahya (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اولاد
+يحيي</span>), settled on the east banks from Badjoura to Kenne
+(comprising the large villages of Salmye, Kaszer e’Seyad, Faoun,
+and Disher), were very conspicuous for their rebellious behaviour.
+The province of the Howara is of all Egypt the richest in horses,
+and the best breed of Egyptian horses is reared there. Every
+wealthy peasant kept his horse, and a large corps of cavalry could
+thus be collected at a moment’s notice.<a id="FNanchor_393"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_393">[206]</a> The Hamam, the principal family of the
+Howara, had within the last century assumed the whole government of
+Upper Egypt, south of Siout, and the Mamelouks had been obliged to
+cede it to them by treaty. Their government was certainly more just
+than that of the Osmanlis, and although Mamelouks, far from being
+entitled to praise. The soil was moderately taxed: one Fedhan at
+Esne, which now pays 14 Patacks to Mohammed Aly, then paid only two
+Patacks; but extortions were practised upon all merchants,
+especially at Kenne, and Farshiout, and Girge; and the numerous
+relations of the Hamam governed in their own districts with great
+oppression and pride. None had more to suffer from the Howara than
+the Copts. Such of these people as were not in the service of the
+Shikhs Hamam, as financiers or writers, but who were employed, as
+many of them still are, in agriculture or in crafts, especially
+weaving, were so much exposed to the extortions of the Hamams and
+the Howara in general, who appear to have been very fanatic, that
+they found no other means for ensuring repose and protection than
+by offering themselves in slavery to their oppressors. It thus
+happened that in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_532">[532]</span>
+every village of southern Egypt, where Copts were settled, the
+latter chose one of the Howara Shikhs as his master; whom he called
+“my Bedouin,” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بدويّ</span>), and
+was called by the Shikh “my Christian,” (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">نصرانيّ</span>). He became now like a member of his master’s
+family; if he was poor, the latter sent to his house provisions of
+corn and butter, and gave him a dress every year; but in return, he
+was obliged to be constantly attending to his master’s orders;
+assisting him in his field labours, doing all kind of work for him,
+and accompanying him on an ass like a servant, whenever the Shikh
+rode out to meet his equals or superiors. If the Copt happened to
+be in good circumstances, he was obliged to make occasional
+presents to his master, who exempted him on that account from hard
+work, and protected him from the oppressions of any other Shikh. If
+the daughter of the serf was to be married, the master entered her
+house on the wedding night; and put an iron chain round her ankles,
+which he secured with a padlock, and the bridegroom was obliged to
+make him a present in order to have the padlock opened, and the
+girl restored to liberty. The possession of these Christians was
+transmitted by the Shikhs to their descendants, who seldom parted
+with them, unless they were themselves reduced to poverty, when
+they sometimes sold them to the protection of other Shikhs. In 1812
+a Christian family residing on the east bank, opposite to Siout,
+was thus sold for two Erdeybs of corn. I am ignorant of the exact
+time in which this custom took its origin, but I believe it has
+subsisted only since the establishment of the Hamam. It is still in
+usage in Upper Egypt, in many parts of the open country, and
+especially in the most southern districts, where the peasants,
+although quite in subjection to the Pasha, are left in their own
+villages to act at pleasure, the government caring little for the
+impositions practised by the village Shikh upon poor individuals,
+provided the land tax be regularly paid. During my stay at Esne, I
+was well acquainted with several Christians who were thus the
+hereditary slaves or servants of great Shikhs, and I have myself
+assisted at the ceremony of tying the chain at the wedding. The
+Hamams were not quiet possessors of Upper Egypt even after the
+Mamelouks had made peace with them. They were exposed on the
+northern side to continual attacks from the Libyan Bedouin tribes
+of Tarhoun, Amaym, Djahame, Rabaya, and others, who dwell in the
+desert west of Siout and in the plain towards Beni Ady, and many
+accounts of battles fought between them and the Howara are still
+related. On the south, the tribe of Kaszas (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قصاص</span>) who people the country on the west banks
+from Thebes to near Esne, and to whom belong the inhabitants of
+Gourne, Orment, and Reheygat (all celebrated for their bold
+plundering enterprises) were their determined enemies; although
+both these and the Howara report that they have the same origin
+from Barbary. When, after Aly Beg, the Mamelouk power had increased
+in Egypt, the Hamams were attacked by them, and defeated in several
+bloody encounters, and the chief Hamam being wounded, fled to Esne,
+where he died. He was buried at Nagady opposite Kous. The treasure,
+in cash, which he had accumulated was in vain searched for; his
+people put to the torture, confessed that he had buried it in the
+mountains behind Haou; but nothing could be found, although to this
+day many a ruined peasant or pedlar, or necromancer wanders in that
+direction in the hopes of finding it. The power of the Hamams
+was<span class="pagenum" id="Page_533">[533]</span> thus destroyed,
+but that of the Howara remained, and the Mamelouk Begs, though
+often at war with them, could never break their strength. A part of
+them, the Oulad Yahya, for instance, were often entirely
+independent, and the village Shikhs themselves received the land
+tax from the peasants.<a id="FNanchor_394"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_394">[207]</a> When Mohammed Aly had succeeded in driving
+away the Mamelouks, he was several years before he could reduce the
+Howara. His governors in Upper Egypt, Abdim Beg, Saleh Aga, Hassan
+Pasha, sacked many of their villages, but it was his own son,
+Ibrahim Pasha, who firmly settled his authority by acts of great
+rigour and severity, having killed by the sword or the executioner
+at least 2000 Howara. He changed the Shikhs of villages, in the
+same manner as the Wahabi chief had changed the Shikhs of the
+Arabian tribes; he disunited the villages among themselves, and
+punished with celerity and without any mercy all those who opposed
+the smallest obstacles to his authority. The last village sacked by
+Ibrahim Pasha in Upper Egypt was Orment, the chief place of the
+Kaszas, who had withheld their tribute. In the autumn of 1813, he
+fell by night upon that village, killed about 30 of the principal
+people and plundered all. Since that time Upper Egypt is completely
+reduced to submission. The Howara have now been obliged to abandon
+their horses, none but the Shikhs of villages dare keep any, and
+their dreaded cavalry is thus completely reduced. The descendants
+of Hamam, the chief, still remain; I knew a nephew of his at
+Farshiout and another at Esne; the latter had several Christians
+belonging to his family as serfs.</p>
+
+<p>(81.) <a id="n81"></a>This city of Belak no longer remains. In
+the direction in which it is placed are several islands, upon
+which, looking from the shore, I saw several ruined buildings. It
+might be supposed that Belak was upon the Island of Philæ, but in
+that case there is no place, one mile in advance of Philæ, where we
+can place El Kaszer; and the latter name seems strongly to indicate
+that magnificent and ancient buildings stood there. Luxor, or El
+Akszar at Thebes, derives its name from the same circumstance.</p>
+
+<p>(82.) <a id="n82"></a>The Moggrebyn traveller, Batouta, crossed
+this desert repeatedly. The relation he gives of it, when he passed
+it the first time, in 725 A. H. is the following: “he embarked on
+the Nile at Cairo and ascended the river as far as Edfou. From
+thence he went to the village of Adjerna el Fil (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اجرنا الفيل</span>), and to the village El
+Atoany (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عطواني</span>).<a id="FNanchor_395"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_395">[208]</a> From the latter village he set out on
+his journey through the desert. He travelled with Arabs of the
+tribe of Dogheim (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">دغيم</span>), for
+15 days over barren mountains and plains. In one of their stations
+they alighted at<span class="pagenum" id="Page_534">[534]</span>
+Hemeytry (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">حميتري</span>), where the
+tomb of the Saint Aby el Hassan el Shadely (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابي الحسن الشادلي</span>) is shown.<a id="FNanchor_396"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_396">[209]</a> He then came to Aizab. The people of
+Aizab are Bedjas, of a black colour. They never let their daughters
+partake in the inheritance. Two-thirds of the revenue of Aizab
+belongs to the King of the Bedjas, called el Hadraby, and one-third
+goes to the Sultan of Egypt. The voyage to Djidda could not take
+place on account of disturbances that had broken out between the
+Bedjas and people of Bornou,<a id="FNanchor_397"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_397">[210]</a> and he was obliged to re-cross the desert to
+Egypt.” This is all that I find of this road, in an abridgement
+which I possess of the great work; and of which, as I believe it is
+not known in Europe, I shall give some farther notices here.</p>
+
+<p>Ibn Batouta is perhaps the greatest land traveller who ever
+wrote his travels. When I first rapidly ran over his book, I took
+him for no better than Damberger the pseudo African traveller; but
+a more careful perusal has convinced me that he had really been in
+the places and seen what he describes. His name was Aby Abdallah
+Mohammed Ibn Abdallah el Lowaty el Tandjy, surnamed Ibn Batouta. He
+was born at Tangier in Barbary, from which place he derives the
+name of Tandjy. (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابن عبدالله محمد بن
+عبدالله اللواتي الطنجي المعروف با بن بطوطة</span>). He published
+his travels after the year 755, A. H. They consist of a large
+quarto volume, which is so scarce in Egypt, that I never saw it;
+but I know that a copy exists at Cairo, though I was not able to
+discover who was the owner. A small abridgment in quarto is more
+common, and of that I have two copies.<a id="FNanchor_398"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_398">[211]</a> I shall give here a rapid sketch of his
+travels, which lasted for 30 years. Being a learned man he found
+every where a polite and generous reception from Moslim chiefs and
+kings, and he lived as a true derwish, sometimes in great affluence
+and sometimes in poverty.</p>
+
+<p>He left Tandja in 725, A. H., and went by Algiers, Tunis,
+Tripoly, and from thence by sea, to Alexandria and Cairo. From
+thence he proceeded to Upper Egypt and Aizab, with the intention of
+going to Mekka, but as we have seen before, he was obliged to
+return to Cairo. Without stopping long at Cairo he set out for
+Syria. In 726 he visited Jerusalem, Akka, Tripoly, Homs, Aleppo,
+Antioch, the fortresses of the Ismaylis, Balbek, and Damascus. From
+thence he started with the pilgrim caravan to Mekka, where he
+performed his first pilgrimage. He returned with the Hadj to
+Medina, from whence he travelled across the Nedjed to Meshed Aly,
+and Bassora. After an excursion to Shiraz and Ispahan he came back
+to Koufa, and went by Kerbela to Bagdad. From hence he visited
+Tebryz, and by way of Mosul again returned to Bagdad, from whence
+he went with the Hadj caravan across the Arabian desert a second
+time to Mekka in 729, where he remained for one year. He then
+embarked at Djidda for Yemen, touched at Souakin, which was then
+under the command of the Sherif Zeyd Ibn Aby Nema, whose father was
+Sherif of Mekka. He touched at all the sea ports of Yemen, as far
+as Aden. From thence he visited Zeyla on the African coast, the
+capital, he says, of the Barbara, a Negroe nation,
+turned<span class="pagenum" id="Page_535">[535]</span> Moslim, of
+the sect of the Shafey, whose territory extends from Zeyla two
+months journey as far as Mokdosho.<a id="FNanchor_399"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_399">[212]</a> The greater part of the inhabitants of Zeyla
+are Rowafid (or sectaries of Aly). He then travelled 15 days by sea
+to Mokdosho; then to Mombaza, an island thus called; to Kilo, where
+he found the whole coast peopled with the Zendj nation, and every
+where Moslims mixed with pagans. From thence he crossed over to
+Thafar on the south coast of Yemen, 16 days journey by land from
+Hadramout, and one month to Aden, which was a harbour trading with
+India. Half a day’s journey from thence is the town of Ahkak, the
+ancient residence of the tribe Aad. From thence he coasted the
+shore to the chief city of Oman, called Nezoa. He then crossed over
+to the Persian coast, visited Hormuz, Khoristan, Lar, Djenhbal,
+Syraf (or Keys), Bahreyn, and El Hassa. From Hassa he went with the
+Hadj caravan in 733 to Mekka, performed his pilgrimage, and by way
+of Aidab and the desert again visited Egypt and Cairo. He then
+proceeded to Syria, and from thence into Anatolia, which country he
+visited in all directions. Taking his road by the Black Sea, he
+entered the north of Persia, Khowarezem, and Bokhara. He visited
+Samarkand, Termah, Balkh, Herat, El Djam, Tous, Sarkhas, and
+Nysabour. From Nysabour he crossed over the snowy mountains called
+Hindwaksh and Bisha-y, to Berden, to Ghazna, and Kaboul; then to
+the mountains of Shishghar, and across a desert of 15 days journey
+to the Pandjab, or five waters. He continued his road to Seboustan,
+and Lahoa on the river; went to Bekar, Audjed, and Mulsen; from
+thence 40 days journey to Dehly by the road of Abou Hour, Serseta,
+Hasky and Masoudabad. He arrived at Dehly in 740, and remained
+there a while. From thence he joined an embassy to China, but was
+afterwards separated from it. He travelled from Dehly to Byane,
+Koul (near the town of Djelaly) to Youhpour, Kanoudj, Meroua,
+Kalyour, Beroun, Kadjoura, Tahār (which is 24 days journey from
+Dehly) Dowletabad, Nezerabad, and Sagher; then on the river of
+Sagher, to Combabe, near the sea, and to Kawa. Here they embarked.
+Having passed at sea the island of Byram, the city of Kouka, the
+island of Sandabour, and the city of Hanoud, he arrived at Malebar.
+In that country he visited Mandjeroun, Heyly, Darkonna, and
+Calicut. From thence he visited the islands called Zobyt el Mahal
+(2000 small islands—no doubt the Maldives), where he met with
+curious adventures, and married in a Moslim family. The chiefs and
+kings of Malebar had been particularly generous towards him. He now
+set out for China. He landed at Sylan, where the Djebel Serendyb
+is, and where he visited Kankar, the residence of the king of
+Sylan, as well as the towns of Columbo and Batala. From hence he
+sailed for the country of Mabar, where he reached the king’s
+residence at Matrat. He now found himself obliged by wayward
+circumstances, to return to Kolam in Malebar, and to Calicut. He
+again started from thence by sea to Bendjala, where he alighted in
+the town of<span class="pagenum" id="Page_536">[536]</span> Sedka.
+Fakker eddyn was Sultan of Bendjala. He made from thence a long
+excursion to the mountains of Kamero, which join the mountains of
+Tibt. He reached the town of Habnak, situated on the river Azrak,
+which flows down from the mountains of Kamero towards Bendjala;
+passed the town of Seter kawan, from whence he travelled to the
+country of Ber hankar, on the sea shore, where he embarked for the
+Jawa (or Malay) country, on his way to China. He reached the island
+of Jawa, passed by the town of Meldjaza, the harbour of Kakouly,
+and from thence had a 34 days voyage to the sea of Kahel, where
+calms reign. He then touched at the town of Toualysy, and from
+thence sailed 27 days to the first town of China, called
+Kaoupoazyne. Wishing to see the interior of the country he
+travelled to the province of Kylan, upon a river. He visited the
+large town of Zeytoun, where the great river Ab-hya empties itself
+into the sea, and the cities of Kondjonfor and Khonsa, from whence
+he went back to Zeytoun. He found in almost every town of China,
+Moslims who received him with hospitality. From China he returned
+back to Java, Kolam, and Calicut; from thence to Yemen, to Maskat,
+Hormus, Khoristan, Shiraz, Ispahan, Bassora, and Bagdad, where he
+arrived in 748. He joined here a caravan going to Damascus, which
+passed by Anak and Tedmor, and from Damascus he returned to Cairo.
+In order to perform one more pilgrimage, he set out to Mekka by way
+of Upper Egypt and the desert to Aizab, and in 749 he was present
+at the Hadj of Arafat; he then visited Medina, and returned from
+thence by Cairo and Alexandria to Barbary, and his native town of
+Tandja. After a short excursion into Spain, where he visited Djebel
+Tarek (Gibraltar), Malaga, and Garnata, he recrossed the sea into
+the dominions of Morocco, and visited the capital, and Sedjelmessa.
+The vicinity of the Soudan kingdom now tempted this indefatigable
+traveller. In 753 he crossed the desert with the slave traders to
+Theghary, 25 days journey from Sedjelmessa, a village, the houses
+of which are built of salt stone, and are covered with camel skins;
+it is without any trees, in a sandy plain, and inhabited by slaves
+who dig up the salt in the neighbourhood, and sell it to the people
+of Soudan. From thence there was a waterless road of 10 days
+journey to a station where caravans alight and repose for 3 days,
+called Tashala. Farther on he crossed a sandy glittering plain,
+without water, or birds, or trees, but composed entirely of sand,
+which the wind moves, and where no footsteps remain. This desert is
+also 10 days across, after which he reached Abou Laten, the first
+place of Soudan. Here are a few date trees, and water melons; the
+people dress in clothes brought to them from Egypt; most of them
+are traders. Their women are beautiful, and are more honoured than
+the men, who are not jealous of them. They count the lineage from
+the uncle, and not from the father; the son of the sister inherits
+to the exclusion of the true son; a custom, says Batouta, which he
+saw no where else except among the pagan Hindoos of Malebar. These
+Negroes are Moslims. From Abou Laten he travelled to Maly. The road
+is full of large trees, a single one of which affords shade for a
+whole caravan. In the (hollow) trunk of one of these trees the
+traveller saw a weaver working at his loom. Among them are the
+trees Istaset, the interior of which is filled with water, and
+affords drink to the passengers. In other trees live bees, and they
+are full of honey. Gourds grow here to a very large size. They cut
+them in two, and thus make two large bowls out of one gourd. Almost
+all their vessels are of gourds. Ten days from Abou Laten, he
+passed the city of Zaghary (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">زغاري</span>), an extensive<span class="pagenum" id="Page_537">[537]</span> place inhabited by Negroe traders, and some
+white people of the heretic creed of Byadha. Leaving
+this,<a id="FNanchor_400"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_400">[213]</a> he came to a very large
+river, which is the Nile. Here is the village of Kar Sendjou, from
+whence the Nile flows down to Kabera, and from thence to Zagha
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">زاغه</span>), the inhabitants of
+which are Moslims of old, and strong in their faith. From Zagha the
+Nile flows down to Timbuctou, then to Kuku, to Mouly, the last
+place of the country of Maly, to Bowy, which is one of the largest
+cities of Soudan, and the Sultan one of the most powerful of that
+country; no white man enters it, for he would be killed before his
+arrival. From thence the Nile descends into the country of Nouba,
+where the people are Christians, and passes by Dóngola, the largest
+town of Nouba, the king of which is at present called Ibn Kenz
+eddyn, who turned Moslim in the time of El Melek el Naszer (of
+Egypt). From thence the Nile flows down to the cataract. From
+Karsendjou (or Karsendjer) the traveller proceeded to the river
+called Sansera(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">صنصره</span>), about
+10 miles from Maly, and then entered Maly, where he remained two
+months, and received presents from the Sultan, Mousy Soleyman, an
+avaricious but very just king. The women in this country never
+cover their nakedness until after marriage. In 754 he left Maly,
+and came to a branch or canal of the Nile, where he saw a great
+number of hippopotami, and from whence, after many days, he reached
+Timbuctou. Most of its inhabitants are traders; it is a town of the
+kingdom of Maly, and a black governor, named by the Sultan of Maly,
+resides there. He then proceeded to Kuku, a large city, one of the
+finest in Soudan. Here as well as in Maly they use shells as
+currency. From Kuku he reached the town of Berdamma, the
+inhabitants of which are the guardians of the caravans; their women
+are beautiful. Farther, he arrived at the town of Nekda, built of
+red stones. The water (with which it is supplied) runs over copper
+mines, and assumes a red colour, whence it is called Bahr-el-Ahmar.
+The people have no employment excepting trade and the copper mines
+on the outside of Nekda (or Tekda), where slaves work. The copper
+is melted into long pieces, which are carried to the pagan Negroes
+for sale, and to other places. The Sultan of Nekda was of the
+Berber nation. From hence the traveller returned in 754 to Barbary.
+He passed the district of Hekar of the Berbers, Sedjelmessa, and
+arrived at Faz, where his travels are concluded.</p>
+
+<p>This slight sketch is sufficient to show the importance of the
+travels of Ibn Batouta, and to warrant the opinion, that he was the
+greatest known traveller of any age, as far at least, as relates to
+the quantity of ground travelled over. The information contained in
+his complete work, regarding the north of Persia, India, China, and
+the interior of Africa, must be invaluable, and as he saw more of
+Africa than most travellers, I thought it not irrelevant to give
+the reader the result of my examination of his abridged work.</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width12">
+
+<p>The desert, (the notice of which by Ibn Batouta gave rise to my
+digression upon his travels in general) was visited in the autumn
+of 1816, by Mr. Cailleau, a Frenchman, sent by<span class="pagenum" id="Page_538">[538]</span> Mohammed Aly Pasha to discover the
+renowned emerald mines in these mountains. His journey was
+facilitated by all the means which the government of Egypt can
+afford, and was successful. He returned in January, 1817, to Cairo,
+and his discoveries are very interesting.</p>
+
+<p>He set out from Redesia, a small village nearly opposite Edfou
+in Upper Egypt. He found a well defined road eastwards. At the end
+of one day’s journey was a well, and another at two days journey.
+On the second day two different roads branched off towards Kosseir.
+At every eight or nine hours, from Redesia on the Nile, he met with
+the ruins of square massive buildings (not near the wells), as if
+of fortified stations; and the road appeared in many parts ancient,
+and the labour of men. On the second day he found on the road an
+ancient temple, cut out of the sand-rock, like those of Nubia, with
+four pillars in the interior of the cave, and two before it, having
+on both sides of the principal room a small apartment, and three
+colossal figures on the back wall of the cave, thus exactly
+resembling the excavated temple at Derr. The walls were all covered
+with hieroglyphics and figures in beautiful colours, as fine, the
+traveller says, as those of the tombs of the Kings of Thebes.
+Several Greek inscriptions were engraved on the walls of the cave,
+which he did not copy.<a id="FNanchor_401"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_401">[214]</a> Beyond this temple (near which no water is
+found), he saw in continuing his route along the road, on various
+parts of the mountain, tablets of hieroglyphics and figures cut out
+of the granite rock; and on the third day after his departure from
+the Nile, he fell in with a great ancient road running from north
+to south. The road is broad, and evidently a work of great labour.
+The Arabs told him that several ancient buildings were found on
+that road farther south, but the traveller could not go in quest of
+antiquities, as he was sent in search of emeralds. He therefore
+crossed that road, and travelled over the mountains eastward until
+he met with the emerald mines, at the distance of seven days
+journey from Edfou, as many from Kous, and four days south of
+Kosseir. They are situated in a narrow valley composed of granite
+rocks. Along the mountain on both sides runs a horizontal stratum
+of mica, into which pits have been dug. Some of the pits, following
+this layer of mica in an oblique direction into the interior of the
+mountain, are four or five hundred feet in depth. The layer of mica
+being only from three to four feet in breadth, the alleys formed in
+the mountain are of no greater height, and whenever the mica layer
+increases in height, the roof of the passage is supported by wooden
+beams. In the interior of the pits, Mr. C. found a few specimens of
+emerald, of which I have seen a small piece about eight lines in
+length and five in breadth; a six-sided crystal, broken on both
+ends, its colour fine, but not clear. A better specimen is said to
+be in possession of the Pasha. When three years ago the Pasha’s
+mineralogist worked in these mountains to find emeralds (as I have
+said in my journal) his party had likewise come to these mines, and
+made some slight excavations. The road leading to the mines, to
+which the Ababde Bedouins apply the name of Zaboura, is cut through
+the rock with great labour. Close to the pits, of which there are
+about 60, basins or tanks have been formed in<span class="pagenum" id="Page_539">[539]</span> the granite rock to receive the rain
+water, Mr. C. found most of them filled with water. Some ruins of
+stone habitations stand in the valley. The nearest source of water
+is about five miles distant; it is very copious, and much resorted
+to by the Bedouins. About six hours distant, there is said to be
+another collection of similar pits with ruined buildings, where
+drawings of figures, &amp;c. are seen, but these the traveller did
+not visit. In descending from the emerald mines to the sea, which
+is about eight hours distant, a broad sandy shore is seen, with a
+small flat island in the vicinity. The Pasha informed Mr. C. that
+it appears from the public registers that these mines were still
+worked in the 17th century. In proceeding from the mines farther
+south, the traveller met at two days journey from thence, at a
+quarter of an hour distant from the sea shore, a mountain entirely
+composed of sulphur, of which he brought away specimens. This
+mountain is well known in Upper Egypt, for whenever the Mamelouks
+were cut off from Cairo, they procured from thence the sulphur
+necessary to make gunpowder. The whole neighbourhood of this
+sulphur mountain is volcanic, and the sulphur itself is closely
+mixed with puzzolana earth.</p>
+
+<p>On the whole road travelled by Mr. C. acacia wood grows in great
+plenty; the tree Allobe, of which I have spoken in my Shendy
+journal, is likewise met with. The Arabs call it the date of the
+desert. I immediately recognised the fruit, of which Mr. C. brought
+back some specimens. (Perhaps it may be the Labakh of the Arabs, or
+the Persea of the ancients.)</p>
+
+<p>Little doubt can remain that the route which has thus been
+traced was the great road from Coptos to Berenice, or from thence
+perhaps to Aidab. The Arabs told the traveller that in continuing
+on the road which he crossed, a large temple was to be seen with
+several columns, situated a few days to the east of
+Assouan.<a id="FNanchor_402"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_402">[215]</a></p>
+
+<p>(83.) <a id="n83"></a>Sherif Edrys in the Geog. Nub. says that
+eight Dinars were taken at Aizab from each pilgrim. In the short
+notice he has of that town, he adds that from Aizab to Djidda, the
+sea is crossed in one day and a night. The pilgrims coming from
+Aizab to Djidda had in former times to pay likewise at the latter
+place, a heavy personal duty, which was abolished in 572, A. H. by
+Salah eddyn, (v. Asamy’s History of Mekka.)</p>
+
+<p>(84.) <a id="n84"></a>Damyry in his Zoology above cited, says of
+the Kersh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">قِرش</span>) that it is a
+large fish found in the Red Sea, of a round shape. It swims like
+lightning, and sometimes impedes the ship’s course, overturns
+boats, and breaks them.<a id="FNanchor_403"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_403">[216]</a></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<h4 class="pb less"><span class="pagenum" id="Page_540">[540]</span><em>A Recapitulation of the Chronological
+Dates contained in these Notices on Nubia and Bedja.</em>
+</h4>
+
+<hr class="decordb width12">
+
+<table class="tdl width-full less vertical-padding" id="chron">
+<tbody><tr>
+<td class="width5">A.H.</td>
+<td>
+</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">20.</td>
+<td class="hang1">The Bedjas and Noubas send an army in aid of the
+besieged Greeks at Bahnasa.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">21.</td>
+<td class="hang1">Aby Sarh, a commander of Amr Ibn el Aas, invades
+Nouba.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">31.</td>
+<td class="hang1">Aby Sarh makes a second expedition against Nouba,
+besieges Dóngola, and obliges the king of Nouba to pay a tribute in
+slaves.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">216.</td>
+<td class="hang1">Ibn Djaham, a commander of the Khalif Mamoun,
+renders the Bedjas tributary. Under Motasem, the successor of
+Mamoun, Zakaria the king of the Nouba and his son Feyraky, confirm
+the tribute.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">241.</td>
+<td class="hang1">El Komy defeats the Bedjas, whose chief repairs
+to Bagdad to sue for peace.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">255.</td>
+<td class="hang1">El Amry, with the Arab tribes of Rabya and
+Djeheyne, takes possession of the gold mines in the Bedja
+country.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">332.</td>
+<td class="hang1">The tribe of Rabya continues in possession of
+these mines.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">345.</td>
+<td class="hang1">Ibrim is taken, and the King of Nouba repulsed by
+the officer of Akshedy, Sultan of Egypt.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">453.</td>
+<td class="hang1">The pilgrim route is opened from Upper Egypt
+through the desert to Aidab.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">568.</td>
+<td class="hang1">Salah eddyn sends an army against the Noubas, who
+had ruined Elephantine and Assouan.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">569.</td>
+<td class="hang1">A brother of Salah eddyn makes an incursion into
+Nouba from Yemen.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">570.</td>
+<td class="hang1">The army of Salah eddyn defeats Kenz el Dowla,
+the rebel of Assouan.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">660.</td>
+<td class="hang1">The pilgrim route through Bedja is
+discontinued.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">674.</td>
+<td class="hang1">Sultan Dhaher Bybars of Egypt sends an army into
+the Nouba country; the churches are ruined; part of the country is
+annexed to Egypt, and the Nouba are obliged to pay a
+capitation.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">684 and 688.</td>
+<td class="hang1">The army of Sultan Seyf eddyn Kelaoun over-runs
+the country of Nouba, as far as 18 days journey higher up than
+Dóngola.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">760.</td>
+<td class="hang1">Aidab is abandoned as a sea port of Indian
+merchandises.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">790.</td>
+<td class="hang1">The Beni Kenz take Assouan.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">799.</td>
+<td class="hang1">The Osman Emperor Selym conquers Egypt. He sends
+garrisons to Assouan, Ibrim, Say, and Souakin.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">815.</td>
+<td class="hang1">The Howara Arabs drive the Beni Kenz from Assouan
+(above the cataract) and destroy that city.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdj" colspan="2"><em>Note a.</em> <a id="na"></a>I have
+found in Mackrizi’s History of the Sultans of Egypt, called
+Es-Selouk, which I have cited above, some farther notices on the
+wars between Egypt and Nouba, which I shall add here. In relating
+in his chronicles of the year</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">674.</td>
+<td class="hang1">The campaign of Dhaher Bibar’s officers against
+Daoud, the King of Nouba, he describes it in the same terms as
+those mentioned here, and he adds: The Moslim army reached Dóngola,
+built on the east side of the Nile, where they remained 17 days.
+They ruined the church of Ysous (Jesus). They took from all the
+churches the golden<span class="pagenum" id="Page_541">[541]</span>
+crosses and silver vessels. The soldiers took so many captives,
+that after they had killed and sold great numbers, at three Derhems
+per head, 10,000 of them still remained in their hands.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdj">It appears that Daoud died, and that Shekendy was
+dispossessed of his kingdom by Samamoun, who became a rebel; for in
+the year</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">684.</td>
+<td class="hang1">The Sultan of Egypt, Seyf eddyn Kalaoun el Elfy
+es-Salehy, ordered a large army to repair into the Nouba country,
+among the numbers of which were likewise the Arab tribes of Kenz
+and Beni Helal. Samamoun, together with Djerys, the governor of the
+castle of Addo retired before the approaching enemy as far as
+Dóngola, when a bloody battle took place, in which the Nouba king
+was defeated and fled. The Moslims pursued him 15 days journey
+beyond Dóngola; they took Djerys prisoner, together with the nephew
+of the King. The kingdom of Nouba was then given to a cousin of
+Samamoun, Djerys was appointed his lieutenant, and the tribute of
+slaves was re-established. The Moslim army retired, carrying with
+them great numbers of Nouba captives, men and women, whom they sold
+at Cairo.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td>
+</td>
+<td class="tdj">After the army had departed, Samamoun rallied his
+party, retook his country, and in the year</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">687.</td>
+<td class="hang1">The fugitive rival king, together with Djerys,
+arrived as refugees at Cairo. In the year</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">688,</td>
+<td class="hang1">the Sultan of Egypt set on foot an army of 40,000
+men to recover the Nouba country. They were accompanied by 500
+ships of all sorts, with many Harakes (a sort of gondolas, called
+now Kandje, in Egypt), and both the refugees set out with them. The
+pretender of Nouba died on the way at Assouan; a nephew of Daoud,
+the former King of Nouba, who then happened to be at Cairo, was
+dispatched from thence to be installed in the government of Nouba
+in his stead. The army divided into two parts, and ascended the
+Nile on the east and west side. The country between Addo and the
+islands of Mykeyl, which was the province under the command of
+Djerys, submitted; but farther on the inhabitants remained firm in
+allegiance to their king, and fled. The soldiers plundered and
+destroyed every thing before them, and reached Dóngola, which they
+found entirely abandoned by its inhabitants; an old man and an old
+woman being the only people who had remained there. Samamoum had
+taken refuge in an island of the Nile, 15 days journey beyond
+Dóngola. The army followed him, but it was found that the ships
+could not pass the river on account of rocks.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">In 689</td>
+<td class="hang1">the army reached however the banks opposite the
+islands, when they saw many ships of the Nouba. They offered a safe
+conduct to the king, but he did not accept it, and afraid as he was
+of the coming up of the ships and the Harakes, he fled towards
+Aboab, three days journey distant from that island, which is a
+place beyond the limits of his territory.<a id="FNanchor_404"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_404">[217]</a> His chiefs and officers, the bishop and
+priests abandoned him, and demanded<span class="pagenum" id="Page_542">[542]</span> a safe conduct from the commander of the
+Moslims, who granted it. His army remained three days before that
+island, and then returned to Dóngola. They made a feast for him and
+exhibited martial evolutions, and the dinner was spread in the
+church of Ysous, the first church of Dóngola. The nephew of Daoud
+was then crowned, and a corps of Moslim was left with him for his
+defence. The chiefs swore allegiance to him, and the Bakt was
+confirmed. After an absence of six months the army returned to
+Assouan, and soon after to Cairo with great booty. No sooner had
+they left Nouba than Samamoun returned in disguise to Dóngola. He
+knocked at the doors of all his officers, who when they came out
+and saw him, kissed the ground (in sign of obedience). On the next
+morning he assembled his whole army; he proceeded to the mansion of
+the king, sent back the Moslim guard with their commander to Kous,
+and laid hold of his rival. He dressed him in an ox skin, and tied
+him to a post where he was left until he died. Djerys was killed.
+Samamoun then wrote to the Sultan of Egypt to ask his pardon,
+promising to send the Bakt. He sent slaves and other presents,
+which were accepted.</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdj" colspan="2"><em>Note b.</em> <a id="nb"></a>It
+deserves mentioning here, that Aidab was at the end of the 12th
+century, for a short time in possession of the Crusaders. I find in
+Macrizi’s History, Es-Selouk, that in the year</td>
+</tr>
+
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl-top">578.</td>
+<td class="hang1">El Bernys Ernat<a id="FNanchor_405"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_405">[218]</a> (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">البرنيس
+ارناط</span>), the Franks chief of Kerek, built ships, and
+transported them by land to the Red Sea. He stationed two ships at
+the castle of Kolzum, to prevent the Moslim inhabitants of that
+place from taking in water,<a id="FNanchor_406"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_406">[219]</a> while he proceeded with the rest of his fleet
+towards Aidab. He killed and took captives on the road. He burnt
+about 16 ships, and took at Aidab a ship full of pilgrims coming
+from Djidda. He intercepted the caravan route with Kous, and took
+at Almor,<a id="FNanchor_407"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_407">[220]</a> in the desert between Kous and Aidab, a
+caravan of pilgrims, whom he killed. They took two ships that had
+come from Yemen full of merchandise, together with a great quantity
+of provisions which had been collected on the coast for the supply
+of the holy city. Such a misfortune had never been heard of in the
+time of the Islam, and before them no Roumy<a id="FNanchor_408"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_408">[221]</a> had ever come into these parts, for
+there remained only one day’s journey between them and Medina, the
+town of the Prophet. They marched against Medina to take it. The
+governor of Egypt, El Melek el Aadel, sent an army to Kolzum; ships
+were built at Cairo and at Alexandria. The Moslims reached Aila,
+and took some of the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_543">[543]</span> ships of the Franks, which they burnt,
+making their crews prisoners. The commander then set out for Aidab
+in pursuit of the Franks. He overtook their ships and took them,
+and having liberated the captives, restored what had been taken
+from them by the enemy. He then landed on the firm
+land,<a id="FNanchor_409"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_409">[222]</a> and the Arab horsemen
+pursued the fugitives of the Franks; two of the latter were carried
+to Muna,<a id="FNanchor_410"></a><a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_410">[223]</a> and were slaughtered there in the same manner
+as a ram is immolated. The Moslims then returned to Cairo with many
+captives, who were decapitated.</td>
+</tr>
+</tbody></table>
+
+<div class="width15 left space-above">
+<hr class="decor width12">
+
+<p class="small center">London: Printed by W. Bulmer and Co.<br>
+Cleveland Row, St. James’s.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnotes" id="ftap3">
+<p class="fthead">FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_188"></a><a href="#FNanchor_188"><span class="label">[1]</span></a>Macrizi was a native of Baalbek, who
+flourished about the year 800 of the Hejra, or in the beginning of
+the 15th century.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_189"></a><a href="#FNanchor_189"><span class="label">[2]</span></a>Vide <a href="#n01">note 1</a> at the
+end.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_190"></a><a href="#FNanchor_190"><span class="label">[3]</span></a>The exact distance between Assouan and the
+cataract of Wady Halfa.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_191"></a><a href="#FNanchor_191"><span class="label">[4]</span></a>Probably the Doum.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_192"></a><a href="#FNanchor_192"><span class="label">[5]</span></a>Meaning, I suppose, the extent of ground
+irrigated by each water-wheel, which exactly corresponds with what
+I have observed on that subject in my journal.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_193"></a><a href="#FNanchor_193"><span class="label">[6]</span></a>Vide <a href="#n02">note 2</a> at the
+end.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_194"></a><a href="#FNanchor_194"><span class="label">[7]</span></a>Vide <a href="#n03">note 3.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_195"></a><a href="#FNanchor_195"><span class="label">[8]</span></a>Vide <a href="#n04">note 4.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_196"></a><a href="#FNanchor_196"><span class="label">[9]</span></a>Perhaps the ruined city of Meharraka,
+mentioned in my journal.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_197"></a><a href="#FNanchor_197"><span class="label">[10]</span></a>The castle of <em>Adde</em> and the colossal
+temple of Ebsambal, are probably meant here.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_198"></a><a href="#FNanchor_198"><span class="label">[11]</span></a>Wady Halfa.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_199"></a><a href="#FNanchor_199"><span class="label">[12]</span></a>From Wady Halfa to Sukkot, are four
+<em>long</em> days journey.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_200"></a><a href="#FNanchor_200"><span class="label">[13]</span></a>An exact description in all its details of
+the Batn el Hadjar, or the country above Wady Halfa.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_201"></a><a href="#FNanchor_201"><span class="label">[14]</span></a>Vide <a href="#n06">note 6.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_202"></a><a href="#FNanchor_202"><span class="label">[15]</span></a>Vide <a href="#n07">note 7.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_203"></a><a href="#FNanchor_203"><span class="label">[16]</span></a>Vide <a href="#n08">note 8.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_204"></a><a href="#FNanchor_204"><span class="label">[17]</span></a>Vide <a href="#n09">note 9.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_205"></a><a href="#FNanchor_205"><span class="label">[18]</span></a>The baryd is an Arabic land-measure of four
+farsakh, or 12 miles.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_206"></a><a href="#FNanchor_206"><span class="label">[19]</span></a>Vide <a href="#n10">note 10.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_207"></a><a href="#FNanchor_207"><span class="label">[20]</span></a>Vide <a href="#n11">note 11.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_208"></a><a href="#FNanchor_208"><span class="label">[21]</span></a>Meaning the pigeon-houses, which in the
+shape of high square towers, are at this day extremely common in
+Upper Egypt.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_209"></a><a href="#FNanchor_209"><span class="label">[22]</span></a>See <a href="#n12">note 12.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_210"></a><a href="#FNanchor_210"><span class="label">[23]</span></a>I have stated the same fact in various parts
+of my journals.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_211"></a><a href="#FNanchor_211"><span class="label">[24]</span></a>See <a href="#n13">note 13.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_212"></a><a href="#FNanchor_212"><span class="label">[25]</span></a>This is over-rated; but I have reason to
+believe, that the bend of the Nile will, on examination, be found
+much greater than is laid down in the maps.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_213"></a><a href="#FNanchor_213"><span class="label">[26]</span></a>See <a href="#n14">note 14.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_214"></a><a href="#FNanchor_214"><span class="label">[27]</span></a>See <a href="#n15">note 15.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_215"></a><a href="#FNanchor_215"><span class="label">[28]</span></a>This again is over-rated.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_216"></a><a href="#FNanchor_216"><span class="label">[29]</span></a>Thus if <em>a</em> be ascending and
+<em>b</em> descending, they will proceed in the same direction if
+the turn be as follows:</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter iw6">
+<figure class="iw6" id="i37"><img alt="[Illustration]" src="images/i37.jpg" id="img_images_i37.jpg">
+</figure>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_217"></a><a href="#FNanchor_217"><span class="label">[30]</span></a>See <a href="#n16">note 16.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_218"></a><a href="#FNanchor_218"><span class="label">[31]</span></a>See <a href="#n17">note 17.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_219"></a><a href="#FNanchor_219"><span class="label">[32]</span></a>See <a href="#n18">note 18.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_220"></a><a href="#FNanchor_220"><span class="label">[33]</span></a>Two different languages are still spoken on
+the borders of the Nile in Nubia.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_221"></a><a href="#FNanchor_221"><span class="label">[34]</span></a>On the west bank of the Nile, above Debot,
+at no great distance from the cataracts, are the ruins of a city,
+still bearing the name of Merys. Vide Journal.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_222"></a><a href="#FNanchor_222"><span class="label">[35]</span></a>The name of Mokra still remains in the
+appellation of Wady Mokrat, on the Nile, three days journeys below
+Berber.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_223"></a><a href="#FNanchor_223"><span class="label">[36]</span></a>See <a href="#n19">note 19.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_224"></a><a href="#FNanchor_224"><span class="label">[37]</span></a>i. e. the Gates.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_225"></a><a href="#FNanchor_225"><span class="label">[38]</span></a>This river is, no doubt, the Mogren, the bed
+of which I found dry, with the exception of a few pools, in April,
+1814.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_226"></a><a href="#FNanchor_226"><span class="label">[39]</span></a>This name is usually applied to the Sherif
+Edrys, as having been a native of Nubia; Macrizi here applies it to
+Selym of Assouan, as the historian of Nubia.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_227"></a><a href="#FNanchor_227"><span class="label">[40]</span></a>This description answers to that of a fish
+found in some of the rivers of Asia Minor. <span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_228"></a><a href="#FNanchor_228"><span class="label">[41]</span></a>See <a href="#n20">note 20.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_229"></a><a href="#FNanchor_229"><span class="label">[42]</span></a>See <a href="#n21">note 21.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_230"></a><a href="#FNanchor_230"><span class="label">[43]</span></a>So I translate the Arabic word Berak,
+(<em>plur.</em> of Birket). Thus the Dead Sea is called “Birket
+Lout,” the sea or lake of Lot.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_231"></a><a href="#FNanchor_231"><span class="label">[44]</span></a>By this river the Nil el Azrek (Blue Nile)
+is no doubt meant.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_232"></a><a href="#FNanchor_232"><span class="label">[45]</span></a>See <a href="#n22">note 22.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_233"></a><a href="#FNanchor_233"><span class="label">[46]</span></a>See <a href="#n23">note 23.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_234"></a><a href="#FNanchor_234"><span class="label">[47]</span></a>See <a href="#n24">note 24.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_235"></a><a href="#FNanchor_235"><span class="label">[48]</span></a>In reading the account of this
+<em>island</em>, as it is called, and of the people, it is
+impossible not to think on Meroë, and the Troglodytes of Herodotus.
+See <a href="#n25">note 25.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_236"></a><a href="#FNanchor_236"><span class="label">[49]</span></a>Meaning, I suppose, that their periodical
+risings take place at the same time.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_237"></a><a href="#FNanchor_237"><span class="label">[50]</span></a>By the four rivers are probably meant the
+branches of the Bahr el Azrek.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_238"></a><a href="#FNanchor_238"><span class="label">[51]</span></a>If under the first mentioned river the
+Mogren is really to be understood, this statement is erroneous.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_239"></a><a href="#FNanchor_239"><span class="label">[52]</span></a>See <a href="#n26">note 26.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_240"></a><a href="#FNanchor_240"><span class="label">[53]</span></a>The Arabic geographers give the name of
+Zendj to the south-eastern coast of Africa, about Melinda and
+Mombaza; but the Zendj here meant, is a northern tribe in the
+Somauly or Abyssinian country. From Zendj, or as it is likewise
+pronounced Zeng, the term Zanguebar is no doubt derived.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_241"></a><a href="#FNanchor_241"><span class="label">[54]</span></a>See <a href="#n27">note 27.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_242"></a><a href="#FNanchor_242"><span class="label">[55]</span></a>Cape Gardafui is probably here meant.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_243"></a><a href="#FNanchor_243"><span class="label">[56]</span></a>Having passed the Straits of Bab el
+Mandeb.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_244"></a><a href="#FNanchor_244"><span class="label">[57]</span></a>See <a href="#n28">note 28.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_245"></a><a href="#FNanchor_245"><span class="label">[58]</span></a>See <a href="#n29">note 29.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_246"></a><a href="#FNanchor_246"><span class="label">[59]</span></a>See <a href="#n30">note 30.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_247"></a><a href="#FNanchor_247"><span class="label">[60]</span></a><span class="arabic" lang="ar">رُبط</span>,
+the plural of <span class="arabic" lang="ar">رباط</span>, are
+public buildings, destined originally for the accommodation of
+students; many of them still exist in the Hedjaz, and at Cairo,
+where they have declined into mere lodging-houses.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_248"></a><a href="#FNanchor_248"><span class="label">[61]</span></a>Mozer is a species of Bouza, or fermented
+liquor, still known by that name in Egypt, and especially in Upper
+Egypt. I have mentioned this white, large grained Dhourra, in my
+journal.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_249"></a><a href="#FNanchor_249"><span class="label">[62]</span></a>Towards Sennaar the cultivable soil on the
+Nile extends far inland.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_250"></a><a href="#FNanchor_250"><span class="label">[63]</span></a>It thus appears that Christianity had at
+this time extended nearly as far as Sennaar.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_251"></a><a href="#FNanchor_251"><span class="label">[64]</span></a>At this day the people of Berber and Shendy,
+as I have remarked in my journal, are less intelligent than the
+Noubas of Dóngola.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_252"></a><a href="#FNanchor_252"><span class="label">[65]</span></a>It should seem from this, that his country
+extended far to the south towards the Abyssinian mountains.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_253"></a><a href="#FNanchor_253"><span class="label">[66]</span></a>See <a href="#n31">note 31.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_254"></a><a href="#FNanchor_254"><span class="label">[67]</span></a>A chasm in all the three manuscripts.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_255"></a><a href="#FNanchor_255"><span class="label">[68]</span></a>See <a href="#n32">note 32.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_256"></a><a href="#FNanchor_256"><span class="label">[69]</span></a><span class="arabic" lang="ar">يتلثموا</span>, i. e. they cover their faces with a
+hand-kerchief, as the Arabian Bedouins, to this day often do with
+their keffie, or head-kerchief.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_257"></a><a href="#FNanchor_257"><span class="label">[70]</span></a>Much the same thing is related of the
+present king of Bornou.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_258"></a><a href="#FNanchor_258"><span class="label">[71]</span></a>As it still does in Bornou and Bahr el
+Ghazal.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_259"></a><a href="#FNanchor_259"><span class="label">[72]</span></a>See <a href="#n33">note 33.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_260"></a><a href="#FNanchor_260"><span class="label">[73]</span></a>I have stated in my journal, that towards
+Shendy and Sennaar the cotton Dammour and its fractional parts form
+the principal currency.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_261"></a><a href="#FNanchor_261"><span class="label">[74]</span></a>Probably by tying many of them together, and
+thus making a raft.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_262"></a><a href="#FNanchor_262"><span class="label">[75]</span></a>See <a href="#n34">note 34.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_263"></a><a href="#FNanchor_263"><span class="label">[76]</span></a>Masoudy says, that they are seven days
+journey from Goft, which is in the immediate neighbourhood of Kous;
+and it will be seen from the note 82, that he was right.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_264"></a><a href="#FNanchor_264"><span class="label">[77]</span></a>See <a href="#n35">note 35.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_265"></a><a href="#FNanchor_265"><span class="label">[78]</span></a>Mica, See <a href="#n34">note 82.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_266"></a><a href="#FNanchor_266"><span class="label">[79]</span></a>See <a href="#n36">note 36.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_267"></a><a href="#FNanchor_267"><span class="label">[80]</span></a>A similar custom, founded upon the same
+principle, prevails in Ashantee. See Bowdich’s Mission, p. 234,
+254. <span class="sc">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_268"></a><a href="#FNanchor_268"><span class="label">[81]</span></a>See <a href="#n37">note 37.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_269"></a><a href="#FNanchor_269"><span class="label">[82]</span></a>In my journey round the Dead Sea to Cairo, I
+remarked a similar custom prevalent among the Arabs of Kerek.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_270"></a><a href="#FNanchor_270"><span class="label">[83]</span></a>From Seba, i. e. seven.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_271"></a><a href="#FNanchor_271"><span class="label">[84]</span></a>From Aksum in Abyssinia.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_272"></a><a href="#FNanchor_272"><span class="label">[85]</span></a>From Dahlak, an island in the Red Sea, near
+Massoua.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_273"></a><a href="#FNanchor_273"><span class="label">[86]</span></a>The Bedja tribe which I saw at the island of
+Mekouar had shields made of the skin of a large fish.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_274"></a><a href="#FNanchor_274"><span class="label">[87]</span></a>See <a href="#n38">note 38.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_275"></a><a href="#FNanchor_275"><span class="label">[88]</span></a>See <a href="#n39">note 39.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_276"></a><a href="#FNanchor_276"><span class="label">[89]</span></a>See <a href="#n40">note 40.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_277"></a><a href="#FNanchor_277"><span class="label">[90]</span></a>See <a href="#n41">note 41.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_278"></a><a href="#FNanchor_278"><span class="label">[91]</span></a>See <a href="#n42">note 42.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_279"></a><a href="#FNanchor_279"><span class="label">[92]</span></a>See <a href="#n43">note 43.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_280"></a><a href="#FNanchor_280"><span class="label">[93]</span></a>See <a href="#n44">note 44.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_281"></a><a href="#FNanchor_281"><span class="label">[94]</span></a>See <a href="#n45">note 45.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_282"></a><a href="#FNanchor_282"><span class="label">[95]</span></a>See <a href="#n46">note 46.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_283"></a><a href="#FNanchor_283"><span class="label">[96]</span></a>Perhaps this is the species of Gazelle with
+two straight horns, represented in the beautiful historical
+bas-relief of Kalabshe in Nubia. See <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_117">p. 117.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_284"></a><a href="#FNanchor_284"><span class="label">[97]</span></a>See <a href="#n47">note 47.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_285"></a><a href="#FNanchor_285"><span class="label">[98]</span></a>See <a href="#n48">note 48.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_286"></a><a href="#FNanchor_286"><span class="label">[99]</span></a>See <a href="#n49">note 49.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_287"></a><a href="#FNanchor_287"><span class="label">[100]</span></a>The author undoubtedly means a white
+man.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_288"></a><a href="#FNanchor_288"><span class="label">[101]</span></a>The aspect of the translator excited quite
+different emotions in the Bedja women, for whenever they saw him
+they uttered a shriek, and those who spoke Arabic exclaimed, “God
+preserve us from the devil!”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_289"></a><a href="#FNanchor_289"><span class="label">[102]</span></a>In the original it is more coarsely
+expressed.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_290"></a><a href="#FNanchor_290"><span class="label">[103]</span></a>i. e. Christians or Jews.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_291"></a><a href="#FNanchor_291"><span class="label">[104]</span></a>See <a href="#n50">note 50.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_292"></a><a href="#FNanchor_292"><span class="label">[105]</span></a>See <a href="#n51">note 51.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_293"></a><a href="#FNanchor_293"><span class="label">[106]</span></a>The public treasury.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_294"></a><a href="#FNanchor_294"><span class="label">[107]</span></a>On the road to Aidab. See below.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_295"></a><a href="#FNanchor_295"><span class="label">[108]</span></a>A village of the name of Koban, with an
+ancient ruined city, is situated about three days south of Philæ
+(Kaszer,) opposite to Dakke, on the east bank of the Nile (see
+<a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_106">p. 106</a>); the columns
+here mentioned were probably a part of the ruins at Koban. The
+columns of Philæ are all upon the island, and could not, therefore,
+well serve as a line of demarcation.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_296"></a><a href="#FNanchor_296"><span class="label">[109]</span></a>Here follows a repetition of the solemn
+assurance of peace, as above.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_297"></a><a href="#FNanchor_297"><span class="label">[110]</span></a>See <a href="#n52">note 52.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_298"></a><a href="#FNanchor_298"><span class="label">[111]</span></a>See <a href="#n53">note 53.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_299"></a><a href="#FNanchor_299"><span class="label">[112]</span></a>Or it may be translated, “on the
+river.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_300"></a><a href="#FNanchor_300"><span class="label">[113]</span></a>Apparently in the same manner as the papyri
+are rolled and wrapped up.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_301"></a><a href="#FNanchor_301"><span class="label">[114]</span></a>Vide infra.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_302"></a><a href="#FNanchor_302"><span class="label">[115]</span></a>See <a href="#n54">note 54.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_303"></a><a href="#FNanchor_303"><span class="label">[116]</span></a>In his book called the “Golden
+Meadows.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_304"></a><a href="#FNanchor_304"><span class="label">[117]</span></a>Masoudy, whose work I possess, adds that
+the people of Ollaky are supplied with water by the rains, and have
+running springs in the Djebel Ollaky. See <a href="#n56">note
+56.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_305"></a><a href="#FNanchor_305"><span class="label">[118]</span></a>See <a href="#n56">note 57 .</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_306"></a><a href="#FNanchor_306"><span class="label">[119]</span></a>The Negroe Moslims, to this day, apply the
+name of Koran indiscriminately to all the pagan Negro nations.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_307"></a><a href="#FNanchor_307"><span class="label">[120]</span></a>Mr. Browne found a tribe of Zaghawa in the
+desert north of Darfour.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_308"></a><a href="#FNanchor_308"><span class="label">[121]</span></a>See <a href="#n56">note 58.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_309"></a><a href="#FNanchor_309"><span class="label">[122]</span></a>See <a href="#n59">note 59.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_310"></a><a href="#FNanchor_310"><span class="label">[123]</span></a>See <a href="#n60">note 60.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_311"></a><a href="#FNanchor_311"><span class="label">[124]</span></a>See <a href="#n61">note 61.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_312"></a><a href="#FNanchor_312"><span class="label">[125]</span></a>See <a href="#n62">note 62.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_313"></a><a href="#FNanchor_313"><span class="label">[126]</span></a>Here is a chasm in all the MSS.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_314"></a><a href="#FNanchor_314"><span class="label">[127]</span></a>See <a href="#n63">note 63.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_315"></a><a href="#FNanchor_315"><span class="label">[128]</span></a>i. e. the Khalif.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_316"></a><a href="#FNanchor_316"><span class="label">[129]</span></a>See <a href="#n64">note 64.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_317"></a><a href="#FNanchor_317"><span class="label">[130]</span></a>A vestment of cloth still worn in the
+East.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_318"></a><a href="#FNanchor_318"><span class="label">[131]</span></a>See <a href="#n65">note 65.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_319"></a><a href="#FNanchor_319"><span class="label">[132]</span></a>Some Nouba captives, I suppose.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_320"></a><a href="#FNanchor_320"><span class="label">[133]</span></a>A quarter of Cairo near the canal, now in
+ruins.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_321"></a><a href="#FNanchor_321"><span class="label">[134]</span></a>The author does not say of what.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_322"></a><a href="#FNanchor_322"><span class="label">[135]</span></a>See <a href="#n65">note 66.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_323"></a><a href="#FNanchor_323"><span class="label">[136]</span></a>In the same work called “The Golden
+Meadows.”</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_324"></a><a href="#FNanchor_324"><span class="label">[137]</span></a>i. e. The Conquests of the Moslims.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_325"></a><a href="#FNanchor_325"><span class="label">[138]</span></a>This Khalif reigned from 136 to 150 A.
+H.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_326"></a><a href="#FNanchor_326"><span class="label">[139]</span></a>See <a href="#n67">note 67.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_327"></a><a href="#FNanchor_327"><span class="label">[140]</span></a>See <a href="#n68">note 68.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_328"></a><a href="#FNanchor_328"><span class="label">[141]</span></a>See <a href="#n69">note 69.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_329"></a><a href="#FNanchor_329"><span class="label">[142]</span></a>See <a href="#n70">note 70.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_330"></a><a href="#FNanchor_330"><span class="label">[143]</span></a>i. e. Soldiers charged with the burning of
+the enemies towns (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">جال
+حراريق</span>).</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_331"></a><a href="#FNanchor_331"><span class="label">[144]</span></a>Probably a species of cuirass made of
+quilted cotton, like those still worn by the Bedjawy, but of a
+white colour.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_332"></a><a href="#FNanchor_332"><span class="label">[145]</span></a>See <a href="#n71">note 71.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_333"></a><a href="#FNanchor_333"><span class="label">[146]</span></a>I believe this to be the island of Sukkot,
+above the second cataract, where I met with several ruins of Greek
+churches.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_334"></a><a href="#FNanchor_334"><span class="label">[147]</span></a>See <a href="#n72">note 72.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_335"></a><a href="#FNanchor_335"><span class="label">[148]</span></a>A similar tribute received by the kings or
+priests of Egypt, is represented in the beautiful historic
+bas-relief in the grotto of Dar el Waly, behind the temple of
+Kalabshe. See <a href="#n73">note 73.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_336"></a><a href="#FNanchor_336"><span class="label">[149]</span></a>As to its revenues, I suppose.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_337"></a><a href="#FNanchor_337"><span class="label">[150]</span></a>The latter remark leads me to suppose that
+by the expression, “territory of the cataracts,” the district
+between Wady Halfa and Philæ is meant.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_338"></a><a href="#FNanchor_338"><span class="label">[151]</span></a>This proves that at the end of the 13th
+century, the prevailing religion of Nouba was still Christian.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_339"></a><a href="#FNanchor_339"><span class="label">[152]</span></a>Besides marks in the ancient temples of
+their having been converted into churches, numerous ancient
+churches are seen in every part of the country between Wady Halfa
+and Assouan.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_340"></a><a href="#FNanchor_340"><span class="label">[153]</span></a>See <a href="#na">note <em>a</em></a> at
+the end.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_341"></a><a href="#FNanchor_341"><span class="label">[154]</span></a>This chapter is placed, by Macrizi, before
+the notices on the Bakt; but I have preferred placing it here.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_342"></a><a href="#FNanchor_342"><span class="label">[155]</span></a>This often stated distance is exactly the
+same as that reported to me, between Assouan and the mountain of
+Olba, the chief seat of the Bisharein, where remains of ruins are
+said to exist.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_343"></a><a href="#FNanchor_343"><span class="label">[156]</span></a>See <a href="#n74">note 74.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_344"></a><a href="#FNanchor_344"><span class="label">[157]</span></a>This appears to be mentioned because the
+date is usually propagated by cuttings.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_345"></a><a href="#FNanchor_345"><span class="label">[158]</span></a>It should thus seem that the whole
+population of Nouba was originally held in slavery by their
+king.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_346"></a><a href="#FNanchor_346"><span class="label">[159]</span></a>In another chapter of his Golden
+Meadows.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_347"></a><a href="#FNanchor_347"><span class="label">[160]</span></a>See <a href="#n75">note 75.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_348"></a><a href="#FNanchor_348"><span class="label">[161]</span></a>See <a href="#n76">note 76.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_349"></a><a href="#FNanchor_349"><span class="label">[162]</span></a>Or, as it may likewise mean, by the river
+Nile.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_350"></a><a href="#FNanchor_350"><span class="label">[163]</span></a>So far goes the relation of Masoudy.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_351"></a><a href="#FNanchor_351"><span class="label">[164]</span></a>It is now about ¹⁄₅₀ of that sum.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_352"></a><a href="#FNanchor_352"><span class="label">[165]</span></a>Of him we have an excellent work on the
+Olemas of Upper Egypt. (It is among my MSS. sent to England.)</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_353"></a><a href="#FNanchor_353"><span class="label">[166]</span></a>Known in Europe by the name of Saladin.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_354"></a><a href="#FNanchor_354"><span class="label">[167]</span></a>This Kenz el Dowla was the Egyptian
+governor of the town, who had rebelled against Salah eddyn, and had
+marched against Cairo with an army of blacks and of Arabs. Malek el
+Aadel, one of the brothers of Salah eddyn, defeated him in 570, in
+a great battle near the village of Toud; and soon after he was
+killed. I am ignorant whether this Kenz el Doula has any thing in
+common with the Beni Kenz; from the pedigree given of it by
+Macrizi, in his history of Egypt, called el Selouk, from which I
+have made this extract (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">السلوك
+لمعرفة دول الملوك للمقرزي</span>) he is said to be descended from
+Ibn el Doul, from whom he took the name.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_355"></a><a href="#FNanchor_355"><span class="label">[168]</span></a>See <a href="#n77">note 77.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_356"></a><a href="#FNanchor_356"><span class="label">[169]</span></a>See <a href="#n78">note 78.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_357"></a><a href="#FNanchor_357"><span class="label">[170]</span></a>By the ascension of Salah eddyn to the
+throne of Egypt.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_358"></a><a href="#FNanchor_358"><span class="label">[171]</span></a>Elephantine.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_359"></a><a href="#FNanchor_359"><span class="label">[172]</span></a>The history of similar attacks forms the
+subject of many paintings on the walls of the ancient temples of
+Upper Egypt. See <a href="#n79">note 79.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_360"></a><a href="#FNanchor_360"><span class="label">[173]</span></a>In this year a terrible famine destroyed
+the population of Upper Egypt. 17.000 souls died at Kous, 11,000 at
+Siout, 15,000 at Haou, of those only who were regularly buried. (V.
+Macrizi’s chapter of Upper Egypt.)</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_361"></a><a href="#FNanchor_361"><span class="label">[174]</span></a>See <a href="#n80">note 80.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_362"></a><a href="#FNanchor_362"><span class="label">[175]</span></a>The Howara are still settled in the
+villages from Siout to Farshyout. They state their origin to be
+from a Moggrebyn tribe.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_363"></a><a href="#FNanchor_363"><span class="label">[176]</span></a>It is probable that at that epoch the Beni
+Kenz fled above the cataract.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_364"></a><a href="#FNanchor_364"><span class="label">[177]</span></a>See <a href="#n81">note 81.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_365"></a><a href="#FNanchor_365"><span class="label">[178]</span></a>Even now the travellers to and from
+Darfour, are in the habit of depositing their loads in the desert,
+if their camels have perished on the road, or are too weak to carry
+them on.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_366"></a><a href="#FNanchor_366"><span class="label">[179]</span></a>The author means here the great famine that
+happened at that time in Egypt, or the Tartar invasion of Syria and
+Mesopotamia. At the same time the Sherif Ibn Sayd of Mekka had
+obstructed the passage of the Hadjis.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_367"></a><a href="#FNanchor_367"><span class="label">[180]</span></a>The last figure being deficient in the MSS.
+it is uncertain in what year it was between 660 and 670.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_368"></a><a href="#FNanchor_368"><span class="label">[181]</span></a>I have mentioned something of this Hadj
+route in my second journal. Batouta states the distance at fifteen
+days journey (see <a href="#n82">note 82.</a>) Between Coptos and
+Berenice were twelve stations.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_369"></a><a href="#FNanchor_369"><span class="label">[182]</span></a>As are the houses of Souakin at
+present.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_370"></a><a href="#FNanchor_370"><span class="label">[183]</span></a>See <a href="#n83">note 83.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_371"></a><a href="#FNanchor_371"><span class="label">[184]</span></a>Probably that in the bay, now called
+Dóngola. (See my journal.)</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_372"></a><a href="#FNanchor_372"><span class="label">[185]</span></a>I suppose northerly winds are meant here.
+According to the present system of navigation in the Red Sea, they
+would run over to the African coast from Djidda, and then coast the
+shore as far as Aidab northwards.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_373"></a><a href="#FNanchor_373"><span class="label">[186]</span></a>The small country ships of the Red Sea,
+never carry more than three or four days provisions of water, and
+this was probably the case likewise in those times; and those who
+left the ships to proceed by land, could therefore take no water
+from the ship for their journey.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_374"></a><a href="#FNanchor_374"><span class="label">[187]</span></a>Ropes made of the cocoa tree bark, coming
+from India and the Somauly coast, are still in general use in the
+Red Sea.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_375"></a><a href="#FNanchor_375"><span class="label">[188]</span></a>Ricinus, a plant frequently seen in
+Nubia.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_376"></a><a href="#FNanchor_376"><span class="label">[189]</span></a>See <a href="#n84">note 84.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_377"></a><a href="#FNanchor_377"><span class="label">[190]</span></a>The people of Souakin export to Arabia
+quantities of mats made of the leaves of the Doum date, but I have
+seen none of their ships with similar sails. I recollect only to
+have seen in the port of Djidda, small fisher boats with such Doum
+mats put up for sails.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_378"></a><a href="#FNanchor_378"><span class="label">[191]</span></a>These remarks are fully applicable to the
+ship owners and sailors from Souakin, and their behaviour towards
+the Negroe pilgrims at the present time.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_379"></a><a href="#FNanchor_379"><span class="label">[192]</span></a><span class="arabic" lang="ar">خلاصة
+الاختصاص في معرفة القوي و الخواص مختصر الفلاحة النبطية التي ترجمها
+ابو بكر ابن و حيشة تأَليف ابن ر قام المرسي</span>
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_380"></a><a href="#FNanchor_380"><span class="label">[193]</span></a>Wahyshe says of the Sadj, that the colour
+of the wood approaches to black. It has a red bark, with large
+leaves of the size of a shield. Its odour resembles that of the
+walnut tree. It grows in India. The elephants eat the leaves as a
+favorite food. Of the trunk boats are made by excavating them, and
+some trees are large enough to contain 50 persons. An oil is
+extracted from the fruit.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_381"></a><a href="#FNanchor_381"><span class="label">[194]</span></a><span class="arabic" lang="ar">و في هذا
+الجبل من ظهره مغارة فكل من دخلها لايخرج منها و اما لحيوانٍ ياكله
+اولحفرٍ يقع فيه</span>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_382"></a><a href="#FNanchor_382"><span class="label">[195]</span></a>I am told that when the French were in
+Egypt, General Kleber received several Fahed in presents from the
+chiefs of the Sennar caravan.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_383"></a><a href="#FNanchor_383"><span class="label">[196]</span></a>The complete work must consist of about 30
+volumes.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_384"></a><a href="#FNanchor_384"><span class="label">[197]</span></a>He shews therein the intimate knowledge
+which he possessed of Greek and Roman history.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_385"></a><a href="#FNanchor_385"><span class="label">[198]</span></a>Of this voluminous work, which is much more
+interesting than Damyry, I have only the 5th and 7th vol. The
+description of the elephant fills almost the whole of one of
+them.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_386"></a><a href="#FNanchor_386"><span class="label">[199]</span></a>Thus are called those Arabs who happened to
+be at Medina and its neighbourhood, when Mohammed fled thither from
+Mekka.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_387"></a><a href="#FNanchor_387"><span class="label">[200]</span></a>Although several villages exist that have
+taken from them the name of Helalye.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_388"></a><a href="#FNanchor_388"><span class="label">[201]</span></a>And some of them in the Sherkye of Lower
+Egypt, and in the desert of Mount Sinai.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_389"></a><a href="#FNanchor_389"><span class="label">[202]</span></a>About the villages of Goreyn and El
+Wady.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_390"></a><a href="#FNanchor_390"><span class="label">[203]</span></a>Of the Beni Djozam, some encampments
+likewise remain in Darfour, if the authority of an Egyptian trader
+may be taken, who told me that he had there known some of them. The
+tribes of the Ababde and Bisharein at present people the great
+desert of Bedja, according to the limits which are given to that
+country by Macrizi, but which appear to have been much
+circumscribed by the present inhabitants (v. my notices on Bedja);
+these two tribes are no doubt a mixture of Arab and native Bedja
+blood. The Ababde however pride themselves in a pure pedigree, and
+assert their descent to be from an Arabian tribe.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_391"></a><a href="#FNanchor_391"><span class="label">[204]</span></a>There is a small village in Upper Egypt, to
+the south of the site of Thebes, and about half an hour north of
+Orment (Hermontis) which still bears the name of Merys. Macrizi, in
+speaking of el Aksar (called by us Luxor, on the east side of
+Thebes) says that the inhabitants are reported to be of Merys
+origin.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_392"></a><a href="#FNanchor_392"><span class="label">[205]</span></a>Macrizi, in the above cited work, el Selouk
+(which is one of the best histories of Egypt, from the time of
+Salah eddyn) speaks likewise shortly of this invasion of Melek el
+Aadel, and says that Kenz el Doula joined the army sent against the
+Nubians in 568, which reached and plundered Dóngola, where the
+house of the king was the only one built of stone, the rest being
+mere huts.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_393"></a><a href="#FNanchor_393"><span class="label">[206]</span></a>Their province is at the same time one of
+the most populous and well cultivated; from the hill of the small
+town of Tahta I counted 35 villages within reach of the eye.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_394"></a><a href="#FNanchor_394"><span class="label">[207]</span></a>In every part of the province of the Howara
+the land was assessed not by the Fedhan or acre, as it is now; but
+every district had to pay an annual round sum, and the Shikhs of
+villages were at liberty to partition it out according to their own
+pleasure, by which they accumulated great wealth. The Howara Shikhs
+were renowned for their hospitality. I alighted one night in the
+house of one of them in a village near the site of Abydus, where I
+found upwards of sixty people sitting down to supper in the
+court-yard of the house.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_395"></a><a href="#FNanchor_395"><span class="label">[208]</span></a>I slept in a village called Adoane
+(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">عدوانه</span>), on the east side of
+the river, about one hour north of Edfou. It is inhabited at
+present by the Aboudye, a branch of the great Ababde tribe; from
+thence a road of seven days leads to Kosseir.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_396"></a><a href="#FNanchor_396"><span class="label">[209]</span></a>This is the tomb mentioned in my second
+journal through Nubia, <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_463">page
+463.</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_397"></a><a href="#FNanchor_397"><span class="label">[210]</span></a>Who, it seems, then took that road, as the
+Negroe pilgrims pass now by Souakin.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_398"></a><a href="#FNanchor_398"><span class="label">[211]</span></a>There are two abridgments of these travels,
+one by Ibn Djezy el Kelby (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">ابن جزي
+الكلبي</span>), the other by Ibn Fathallah el Beylouny(<span class="arabic" lang="ar">البيلوني ابن فتح الله</span>); the latter I
+possess.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_399"></a><a href="#FNanchor_399"><span class="label">[212]</span></a>Mr. Seetzen, in a treatise on the Berber
+nation, inserted in the Mines de l’Orient, says that Batouta states
+the inhabitants of Makdosho to be Berbers. He calls them, it is
+true, of the nation of Barbara, but it remains to be proved whether
+the northern Berbers have any thing in common with these Barbaras,
+or with the Berábera above the cataract of Syene, whom Mr. Seetzen
+likewise affiliates with the Berbers of Libya. I am ignorant
+whether Mr. Seetzen was in possession of the great work of Batouta,
+or merely of the abridgment.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_400"></a><a href="#FNanchor_400"><span class="label">[213]</span></a>It is not said at what distance.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_401"></a><a href="#FNanchor_401"><span class="label">[214]</span></a>I have mentioned this temple and road from
+hearsay, in my second journal.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_402"></a><a href="#FNanchor_402"><span class="label">[215]</span></a>Mr. C. is soon to set out upon a second
+expedition, to discover the gold mines, and although he cares much
+less for geography and antiquities than for mineralogy, which he
+knows well, being a disciple of Haüy, yet he intends to examine as
+exactly as possible the whole desert between the Nile and the Red
+Sea, as far as about eight or ten days to the south of Kosseir. The
+Pasha, who is greatly interested in the search after gold and
+jewels, has done every thing to facilitate and ensure his journey,
+from which much interesting matter may be expected.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_403"></a><a href="#FNanchor_403"><span class="label">[216]</span></a>This fish is called in Italian, “<em>Pesce
+Cane</em>.” A. S.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_404"></a><a href="#FNanchor_404"><span class="label">[217]</span></a>We have seen above, that Aboab is the first
+city of the country of Aloa. From the distances here given, it must
+be in the country inhabited at present by the Arabs Sheygya. It
+seems therefore that ships can sail all the way from Assouan to
+Dóngola, across all the cataracts. This, can only be possible in
+time of high water.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_405"></a><a href="#FNanchor_405"><span class="label">[218]</span></a>This is the Arabic mode of writing
+<em>Prince Renaut</em>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_406"></a><a href="#FNanchor_406"><span class="label">[219]</span></a>That is to say, that they prevented them
+from fetching it from the other side of the gulph.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_407"></a><a href="#FNanchor_407"><span class="label">[220]</span></a>I am ignorant of the situation of this
+place.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_408"></a><a href="#FNanchor_408"><span class="label">[221]</span></a>Roumy, i. e. a Roman,—a word first applied
+by the Arabs to the Greeks of the Lower Empire, and afterwards to
+all Christians.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_409"></a><a href="#FNanchor_409"><span class="label">[222]</span></a>i. e. On the Arabian side.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a id="Footnote_410"></a><a href="#FNanchor_410"><span class="label">[223]</span></a>The valley of sacrifices near Mekka.</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap">
+
+<div>
+<p class="center spaced2 pb"><span class="xlarge">VOYAGES AND
+TRAVELS, &amp;c.</span><br>
+<span class="large letter-spaced">PUBLISHED BY JOHN
+MURRAY,</span><br>
+<em>BOOKSELLER to the ADMIRALTY and to the BOARD of LONGITUDE.</em>
+</p>
+
+<hr class="decor width12">
+
+<div class="container width60 less">
+<div class="two-col">
+<p>TRAVELS in the INTERIOR DISTRICTS of AFRICA; performed in the
+Years 1795-6-7, and during a subsequent Mission in 1805. By
+<span class="sc">Mungo Park</span>. <span class="sc">A New
+Edition</span>, 2 vols. 8vo. 24<em>s.</em></p>
+
+<p>The Volumes may be had separately, price 12<em>s.</em></p>
+
+<p><span class="sc">A few Copies</span> of the <span class="sc">first</span> Volume have been re-printed in <span class="sc">Quarto</span>, with (by permission) <span class="sc">Major
+Rennell’s</span> valuable Memoir on the <span class="sc">Geography</span> of Africa: with the Portrait, and all the
+Maps and Views, 2<em>l.</em> 2<em>s.</em></p>
+
+<p>Vol. 2, 4to. containing Park’s Last Journey, and Life,
+1<em>l.</em> 11<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p>
+
+<p>An ACCOUNT of the MISSION from CAPE COAST CASTLE to the KINGDOM
+of ASHANTEE, in <span class="sc">Africa</span>; comprising its
+History, Laws, Superstitions, Customs, Architecture, Trade, &amp;c.
+To which is added a Translation, from the Arabic, of an Account of
+Mr. Park’s Death, &amp;c. By <span class="sc">Thomas Edward
+Bowdich</span>, Esq., Conductor and Chief of the Embassy. With a
+Map, and several Plates of Architecture, Costumes, Processions,
+&amp;c. In one 4to. volume, 3<em>l.</em> 3<em>s.</em></p>
+
+<p>NARRATIVE of <span class="sc">Robert Adams</span>, a Sailor, who
+was wrecked on the Western Coast of Africa in the year 1810, was
+detained three years in Slavery by the Arabs of the Great Desert,
+and resided several months at Tombuctoo. With a Map. Printed
+uniformly with Park’s Travels in 4to. 25<em>s.</em></p>
+
+<p>LOSS of the AMERICAN BRIG COMMERCE, on the Western Coast of
+Africa, in 1815; with an Account of the sufferings of her surviving
+Crew, who were enslaved by the Wandering Arabs on the Great African
+Desert, or Zahahrah. By <span class="sc">James Riley</span>, with a
+Map. 4to. 36<em>s.</em></p>
+
+<p>NARRATIVE of an EXPEDITION to explore the River ZAIRE, usually
+called the CONGO, in <span class="sc">South Africa</span>, in 1816,
+under the direction of <span class="sc">Captain J. K.
+Tuckey</span>, R. N. <em>Published by Permission of the Lords
+Commissioners of the Admiralty.</em> Fourteen Engravings, 4to.
+2<em>l.</em> 2<em>s.</em></p>
+
+<p>TRAVELS ABOVE the CATARACTS of EGYPT and in NUBIA. By
+<span class="sc">Thomas Legh</span>, Esq. M. P. <span class="sc">Second Edition</span>, with a Map, and eleven Plates, 8vo.
+12<em>s.</em></p>
+
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+3<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p>
+
+<p>A VOYAGE of DISCOVERY, made under the Orders of the Admiralty,
+in His Majesty’s Ships, Isabella and Alexander, for the purpose of
+exploring Baffin’s Bay, and of inquiring into the probability of a
+North-West Passage. By Captain <span class="sc">John Ross</span>,
+K. S. R. N. Commander of the Expedition. With Two and Thirty
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+6<em>d.</em></p>
+
+<p>A CHRONOLOGICAL HISTORY OF VOYAGES into the POLAR REGIONS;
+undertaken chiefly for the purpose of discovering a North-East, or
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+earliest period of Scandinavian Navigation, to the Departure of the
+recent Expeditions, under the orders of Captains Ross and Buchan.
+By <span class="sc">John Barrow</span>, F. R. S. To which are
+added, a Narrative of Captain Buchan’s Expedition into the Interior
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+Anian, made by Capt. L. F. Maldonado, in the Year 1588. With an
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+
+<p>JOURNEY through ASIA MINOR, ARMENIA, and KOORDISTAN, in the
+years 1813 and 1814. With Remarks on the Marches of Alexander, and
+Retreat of the Ten Thousand, By <span class="sc">John Macdonald
+Kenneir</span>, Esq. 8vo. 18<em>s.</em></p>
+
+<p>JOURNEY from MOSCOW to CONSTANTINOPLE. With a Continuation of
+the Route to Jerusalem, the Dead Sea, Petra, Damascus, Balbec,
+Palmyra, &amp;c.; By <span class="sc">Wm. Macmichael</span>, M. D.
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+6<em>d.</em></p>
+
+<p>JOURNEY OVER LAND from INDIA, through Egypt to England, in the
+Year 1818. By <span class="sc">Lieut.-Colonel Fitz-Clarence</span>,
+with Maps, Plans, and Views, 4to. 2<em>l.</em> 18<em>s.</em></p>
+
+<p>JOURNAL <span class="sc2">of the</span> PROCEEDINGS <span class="sc2">of the late</span> EMBASSY <span class="sc2">to</span> CHINA;
+By <span class="sc">Henry Ellis</span>, Esq., Secretary of Embassy,
+and Third Commissioner. <span class="sc">Second Edition</span>. 2
+Vols. 8vo., 21<em>s.</em></p>
+
+<p>VOYAGE of His Majesty’s late Ship ALCESTE, along the Coast of
+Corea, to the Island of <span class="sc">Lewchew</span>: with an
+account of her Shipwreck. By <span class="sc">John M‘Leod</span>,
+Surgeon of the Alceste. With a Portrait of Sir Murray Maxwell, and
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+
+<p>ACCOUNT of a VOYAGE of DISCOVERY to the Western Coast of COREA
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+4to. 2<em>l.</em> 2<em>s.</em></p>
+
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+INCOGNITA of AUSTRALASIA, performed by Command of the British
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+By <span class="sc">John Oxley</span>, Esq. Surveyor-General of the
+Territory, and Lieutenant of the Royal Navy. With an entirely new
+Map, and other Plates, 4to. <em>In the Press.</em></p>
+
+<p>LETTERS from the NORTH of ITALY, relating principally to the
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+
+<p>JOURNAL of a TOUR in GERMANY, SWEDEN, RUSSIA, POLAND, &amp;c.
+during the Years 1813, and 1814. By <span class="sc">J. T.
+James</span>, A. M., Christ Church, Oxford. <span class="sc">Third
+Edition</span>, 2 vols. 8vo. with Twelve Plates, 1<em>l.</em>
+10<em>s.</em></p>
+
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+Arrowsmith. <em>In the Press.</em></p>
+
+<p>GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR of the PERSIAN EMPIRE; interspersed with
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+2<em>s.</em> or, with the Map, 3<em>l.</em> 13<em>s.</em>
+6<em>d.</em></p>
+
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+8<em>s.</em> 6<em>d.</em></p>
+
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+
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+History of the Dooraunnee Monarchy. By the Hon. <span class="sc">Mountstuart Elphinstone</span>, of the Hon. East-India
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+<span class="sc">A New Edition</span>, in 2 vols.</p>
+
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+Warrior, and Poet, who flourished a few years prior to the
+Mahommedan Æra. Now first translated from the original Arabic, by
+<span class="sc">Terrick Hamilton</span>, Esq., Oriental Secretary
+to the British Embassy to Constantinople. 4 vols. Cr. 8vo. <em>In
+the Press.</em></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="transnote space-above pb">
+<h2 class="less">Transcriber's note:</h2>
+
+<ul class="med">
+<li>The changes indicated in the <a href="#errata">Errata</a> have
+been done.</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_xiii">xiii</a> Changed:
+nothing could persaude to: persuade</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_xiv">xiv</a> Changed:
+equally divided be- to: between</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_xxxix">xxxix</a> Changed:
+obliged to the Committtee to: Committee</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_xliv">xliv</a> Changed:
+large ampitheatre to: amphitheatre</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_liii">liii</a> Changed:
+should have have been reaped to: should have been</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_lxiv">lxiv</a> Changed:
+fro Upper Egypt to: from</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_lxviii">lxviii</a>
+Changed: almost four thonsand to: thousand</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_lxxv">lxxv</a> Changed: to
+work np his to: work up</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_lxxix">lxxix</a> Changed:
+in the twelth century to: twelfth</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_lxxxii">lxxxii</a>
+Changed: and especiclly near to: especially</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_lxxxv">lxxxv</a> Changed:
+Israelites by Pharoah to: Pharaoh</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_6">6</a> Changed: a vesel
+laden with to: vessel</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_28">28</a> Changed: ther
+battle to: another</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_38">38</a> Changed: of
+coarse excution to: execution</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_61">61</a> Changed: the
+slighest idea to: slightest</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_95">95</a> Changed: his
+contant reply to: constant</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_102">102</a> Changed:
+of jars placed on over the other to: one over the other</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_133">133</a> Changed:
+their desendants may to: descendants</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_133">133</a> Changed: took
+possesssion of to: possession</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_135">135</a> (footnote
+<a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_83">[64]</a>) Changed: the
+eastern moutains to: mountains</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_138">138</a> Changed:
+people of Ibim to: Ibrim</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_139">139</a> Changed: who
+exorts from him to: extorts</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_142">142</a> Changed: with
+and curved edges to: and with</li>
+
+<li>*pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_154">154</a> Changed:
+Chick tea to: Chick pea</li>
+
+<li>*pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_156">156</a> Changed:
+Rosany to: Rosary</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_185">185</a> Changed: I
+was suprised to: surprised</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_208">208</a> Changed: of
+Upper Eygpt send to: Egypt</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_209">209</a>, reference to
+footnote <a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_99">[9]</a> has been placed
+after: Edris el Temsah,</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_230">230</a> Changed:
+instances of opthalmia to: ophthalmia</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_282">282</a> Changed: the
+moutains of Dender to: mountains</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_291">291</a> Changed:
+boiled chich-pease to: chick-peas</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_295">295</a> Changed:
+fever and dysentry to: dysentery</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_327">327</a> Changed: Ras
+Raghig (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">رفيق</span>) to:
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">رقيق</span></li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_342">342</a> Changed: and
+fo drilling to: and of drilling</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_401">401</a> Changed: name
+ofte occurred to: often</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_424">424</a> Changed: grow
+n the plain to: grow in the</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_432">432</a> Changed: are
+some wharehouses to: warehouses</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_445">445</a> Changed:
+Abbyssinian slaves to: Abyssinian</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_445">445</a> Changed: a handful of Dhoura to: Dhourra</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_446">446</a> (footnote
+<a class="fnanchor pginternal" href="#Footnote_162">[72]</a>) Changed: method
+of smimming to: swimming</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_454">454</a> Changed:
+fradulent transactions to: fraudulent</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_471">471</a> Changed:
+between Kossier and Souakin to: Kosseir</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_479">479</a> Changed: Bahr
+el Feydh (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بح الفيض</span>) to:
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">بحر</span></li>
+
+<li>*pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_480">480</a> Changed:
+Oulad Ahmad (<span class="arabic" lang="ar">اولاد احعد</span>) to:
+<span class="arabic" lang="ar">احمد</span></li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_489">489</a> Changed:
+called i the river to: called it</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_490">490</a> Changed: were
+of opinon to: opinion</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_509">509</a> Changed: you
+will be victorous to: victorious</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_523">523</a> Changed: find
+this written likewsie to: likewise</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_524">524</a> Changed:
+cellars, caverns, gottos to: grottos</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_538">538</a> Changed: no
+greater heighth to: height</li>
+
+<li>pg <a class="pginternal pginternal" href="#Page_542">542</a> Changed: had
+which been collected to: which had been</li>
+
+<li>All changes listed above can also be found in the Second
+Edition of this book (1822), except those marked with an
+asterisk.</li>
+
+<li>The placement of diacritics in arabic words has been adjusted
+in several instances to better match the transliteration offered by
+the author.</li>
+
+<li>Minor punctuation and capitalization changes have been done
+silently.</li>
+
+<li>Isolated page-number typos have been corrected; the jump in
+page-number from p. 242 to 253 has been left unchanged.</li>
+
+<li>Other spelling inconsistencies have been left unchanged.</li>
+
+<li>New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to
+the public domain.</li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 71129 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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