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- margin-left: 1px } - -table.docinfo { - margin: 2em 4em } - -table.docutils { - margin-top: 0.5em ; - margin-bottom: 0.5em } - -table.footnote { - border-left: solid 1px black; - margin-left: 1px } - -table.docutils td, table.docutils th, -table.docinfo td, table.docinfo th { - padding-left: 0.5em ; - padding-right: 0.5em ; - vertical-align: top } - -table.docutils th.field-name, table.docinfo th.docinfo-name { - font-weight: bold ; - text-align: left ; - white-space: nowrap ; - padding-left: 0 } - -/* "booktabs" style (no vertical lines) */ -table.docutils.booktabs { - border: 0px; - border-top: 2px solid; - border-bottom: 2px solid; - border-collapse: collapse; -} -table.docutils.booktabs * { - border: 0px; -} -table.docutils.booktabs th { - border-bottom: thin solid; - text-align: left; -} - -h1 tt.docutils, h2 tt.docutils, h3 tt.docutils, -h4 tt.docutils, h5 tt.docutils, h6 tt.docutils { - font-size: 100% } - -ul.auto-toc { - list-style-type: none } - -</style> -</head> -<body> -<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Tahiti; the island paradise, by Nicholas Senn</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Tahiti; the island paradise</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Nicholas Senn</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: February 4, 2023 [eBook #69945]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: James Simmons</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TAHITI; THE ISLAND PARADISE ***</div> -<div class="document" id="tahiti-the-island-paradise"> -<h1 class="title">TAHITI THE ISLAND PARADISE</h1> - -<!-- -*- encoding: utf-8 -*- --> -<div class="topic"> -<p class="topic-title">Transcriber's Note</p> -<p>This book was transcribed from scans of the original found at the Internet Archive. -Variant spellings are not corrected. Some illustrations are rotated.</p> -</div> -<div class="figure align-center"> -<img alt="Book Cover" src="images/cover.jpg" style="width: 379.5px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p> </p> -</div> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image1"> -<img alt="Frontspiece: The Royal Family" src="images/Image01.jpg" style="width: 436.5px; height: 600.0px;" /> -</div> -<p align="center"><strong>TAHITI</strong></p> -<p align="center"><strong>THE</strong></p> -<p align="center"><strong>ISLAND PARADISE</strong></p> -<p align="center">BY</p> -<p align="center"><strong>NICHOLAS SENN, M. D., Ph. D., LL. D., C. M.</strong></p> -<p align="center">Professor of Surgery in the University of Chicago</p> -<p align="center">Professor and Head of the Surgical Department in Rush Medical College</p> -<p align="center">Surgeon-in-Chief of St. Joseph's Hospital</p> -<p align="center">Attending Surgeon of the Presbyterian Hospital</p> -<p align="center">Lieutenant-Colonel and Chief of the Operating Staff with the Army in</p> -<p align="center">the Field during the Spanish-American War</p> -<p align="center">Surgeon-General of Illinois</p> -<p align="center">WITH FIFTY HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS</p> -<p align="center"><strong>CHICAGO</strong></p> -<p align="center"><strong>W. B. CONKEY COMPANY</strong></p> -<div class="figure align-center"> -<img alt="Title Page" src="images/title_page.jpg" style="width: 353.5px; height: 600.0px;" /> -</div> -<p align="center">COPYRIGHT, 1906,</p> -<p align="center">BY</p> -<p align="center">W. B. CONKEY COMPANY</p> -<div class="section" id="preface"> -<h1>PREFACE</h1> -<p>The far-away little island of Tahiti is the gem -of the South Pacific Ocean. If any place in this -world deserves to be called a paradise, Tahiti -can make this claim. This charming spot in the -wide expanse of the peaceful ocean has -attractions which we look for in vain anywhere else. -From a distance, the grandeur of its frowning -cliffs rivets the eye, and, in coming nearer, its -tropic beauty charms the visitor and imprints -upon his memory pictures single and panoramic -that neither distance nor time can efface. The -scenic beauty of this island is unsurpassed. The -calming air, redolent with the perfume of fragrant -flowers of exquisite beauty, on the seashore, in -the valleys and on the precipitous mountain -sides; the luxuriant vegetation; the forest -fruit-gardens and the sweet music of the surf remind -one of the original habitation of man. The -natives, a childlike people, friendly, courteous -and hospitable, are the happiest people on earth, -free from care and worries which in other less -favored parts of the world make life a drudgery.</p> -<p>Tahiti is the only place in the world where -the people are not obliged to work. The forests -furnish bread and fruit and the sea teems with -fish. The climate is so mild that the wearing of -clothing is rather a matter of choice than of -necessity, and the bamboo huts that can be made -with little or no expense in half a day with -the willing help of the neighbors, meet all the -requirements of a home. The stranger will find -here throughout the year a climate and -surroundings admirably adapted to calm his nervous -system and procure repose and sleep.</p> -<p>In writing this little book I have made free use -of the "Memoirs of Arrii Taimai E., Marama -of Eimeo, Terii rere of Tooarai, Terii nui of -Tahiti, Tauraatua I Amo" (Paris, 1901). The -authoress was the mother of Tati, one of the -most influential present chiefs of Tahiti, and, as -her several titles show, she was of noble birth. -She was an eye-witness of many of the most -stirring political events in the history of the -island. Only fifty copies of this book were -printed and only three remained in possession -of her son. He was kind enough to give me -one of them, which, after making liberal use -of it, I presented to the library of the University -of Chicago, through its late lamented president, -Dr. W. R. Harper. I also acknowledge my -indebtedness to the works of Captain Cook, "A -Voyage to the Pacific" (London, 1784), and to -the book of Baron Ferd. von Mueller, "Select -Extra-tropical Plants" (Melbourne, 1885).</p> -<p>N. Senn.</p> -<p>Chicago, 1906.</p> -<div class="contents topic" id="contents"> -<p class="topic-title">Contents</p> -<ul class="simple"> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#preface" id="id4">PREFACE</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#id1" id="id5">TAHITI THE ISLAND PARADISE</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#the-island-of-tahiti" id="id6">THE ISLAND OF TAHITI</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#ocean-voyage" id="id7">OCEAN VOYAGE</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#the-atoll-islands" id="id8">THE ATOLL ISLANDS</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#the-landing-at-papeete" id="id9">THE LANDING AT PAPEETE</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#the-city-of-papeete" id="id10">THE CITY OF PAPEETE</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#topography-of-the-island" id="id11">TOPOGRAPHY OF THE ISLAND</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#the-climate" id="id12">THE CLIMATE</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#history-of-the-island" id="id13">HISTORY OF THE ISLAND</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#pomare-the-royal-family-of-tahiti" id="id14">POMARE, THE ROYAL FAMILY OF TAHITI</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#missionary-rule" id="id15">MISSIONARY RULE</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#wars-between-protestant-and-catholic-missionaries" id="id16">WARS BETWEEN PROTESTANT AND CATHOLIC MISSIONARIES</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#the-last-war" id="id17">THE LAST WAR</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#the-natives" id="id18">THE NATIVES</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#foreigners-in-tahiti" id="id19">FOREIGNERS IN TAHITI</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#business-in-tahiti" id="id20">BUSINESS IN TAHITI</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#old-tahiti" id="id21">OLD TAHITI</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#religion-of-the-natives" id="id22">RELIGION OF THE NATIVES</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#the-insignia-of-tahitian-royalty" id="id23">THE INSIGNIA OF TAHITIAN ROYALTY</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#diseases-of-tahiti" id="id24">DISEASES OF TAHITI</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#present-prevailing-diseases" id="id25">PRESENT PREVAILING DISEASES</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#the-kahuna-or-native-doctor" id="id26">THE KAHUNA OR NATIVE DOCTOR</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#physicians-in-tahiti" id="id27">PHYSICIANS IN TAHITI</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#hopital-militaire" id="id28">HÔPITAL MILITAIRE</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#the-island-of-plenty" id="id29">THE ISLAND OF PLENTY</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#tahiti-s-natural-bread-supply" id="id30">TAHITI'S NATURAL BREAD SUPPLY</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#the-cocoanut-the-meat-of-the-tahitians" id="id31">THE COCOANUT, THE MEAT OF THE TAHITIANS</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#the-cocoa-palm" id="id32">THE COCOA-PALM</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#the-forests-of-tahiti" id="id33">THE FORESTS OF TAHITI</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#noted-forest-trees-of-tahiti" id="id34">NOTED FOREST TREES OF TAHITI</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#vanilla-cultivation-in-tahiti" id="id35">VANILLA CULTIVATION IN TAHITI</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#the-rural-districts" id="id36">THE RURAL DISTRICTS</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#point-venus" id="id37">POINT VENUS</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#fautahua-valley" id="id38">FAUTAHUA VALLEY</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#village-of-papara" id="id39">VILLAGE OF PAPARA</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#iorana" id="id40">IORANA!</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#addenda" id="id41">ADDENDA</a></li> -<li><a class="reference internal" href="#the-story-of-ariitaimai-of-tahiti" id="id42">THE STORY OF ARIITAIMAI OF TAHITI </a></li> -</ul> -</div> -<p><strong>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</strong></p> -<ul class="simple"> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image1">The Royal Family</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image2">Harbor and Principal Port of Papeete</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image3">Lighthouse, and Cook Monument at Haapape</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image4">King Pomare V</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image5">Pomare IV</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image6">View of Moorea</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image7">Tahiti from the Harbor of Papeete</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image8">In the Shadow of the Palm Forest</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image9">The S. S. "Mariposa" Leaving the Harbor of Papeete</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image10">Royal Palace (Headquarters of the Governor)</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image11">Avenue of Purranuia, Papeete</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image12">Native Village by the Sea</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image13">Native Hut close by the Sea</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image14">Prince Hinoi</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image15">A Tahitian Home</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image16">Tahitian Bamboo House</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image17">Tomb of the Last King of Tahiti, Pomare V</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image18">Tahitian Women in Ancient Native Dress</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image19">Tahiti Girls in Native Dress</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image20">A Group of Native Girls</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image21">Native Girl in Modern Dress</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image22">Tahitian Ladies in Zulu Dress</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image23">Native Musicians and Native Dance</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image24">Tahitian Girl in Native Festive Dress</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image25">At Home</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image26">A Home by the Sea — Raiatea</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image27">Fisherman's Home</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image28">Native Settlement</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image29">Group of Tahitian Children</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image30">A Case of Far-Advanced Leprosy Affecting All Limbs</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image31">A Leper of Tahiti</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image32">Military Hospital in Papeete</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image33">Tahitian Fruit Vender</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image34">Preparing Breadfruit</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image35">Sapodilla</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image36">Copra Establishment</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image37">Government Wharf — Papeete</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image38">Corner in Papeete</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image39">A View of Fautahua Valley</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image40">Avenue of Fautahua</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image41">Cascade of Fautahua</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image42">Bridge across Fautahua near Waterfall</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image43">Lagoon and Reef on the Ninety-Mile Road</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image44">On the Ninety-Mile Road</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image45">Fishermen of Papeete</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image46">Tahitian Canoe with Outrigger</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image47">Two Papaya Trees</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image48">Picking Cocoanuts</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image49">Alligator Pear Tree</a></li> -<li><a class="reference external" href="#image50">Ancient Masked Warriors</a></li> -</ul> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image2"> -<img alt="Harbor" src="images/Image02.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 382.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">HARBOR AND PRINCIPAL PORT OF PAPEETE -(Steamer <em>Mariposa</em> leaving the port)</p> -</div> -</div> -<div class="section" id="id1"> -<h1>TAHITI THE ISLAND PARADISE</h1> -<p>When the Almighty Architect of the universe -created the earth we inhabit, He manifested His -wisdom, goodness and foresight in adapting, in -a most admirable manner, the soil, climate, and -animal and vegetable life for the habitation of -man, the supreme work of creation. By the -gradual and progressive geographical -distribution of man over the surface of the earth, he -has become habituated to diverse climates and -environments, and has found conditions most -congenial to his comfort and the immediate -necessities of life.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>In cold, laborious climes, the wintry North</p> -<p>Brings her undaunted, hardy warriors forth,</p> -<p>In body and in mind untaught to yield,</p> -<p>Stubborn of soul, and steady in the field;</p> -<p>While Asia's softer climate, form'd to please.</p> -<p>Dissolves her sons in indolence and ease.</p> -<p>LUCANUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>It required centuries for the Esquimau to -become acclimated to the inhospitable polar regions, -and make them his favorite abode; the people -who drifted toward the equator gradually -became inured to the climate of the tropics and -accustomed to the manner of living in countries -where the perennial heat paralyzes the physical -and mental energies, and undermines the health -of strangers coming from a more temperate -climate. Nature has made ample provision for -man in all habitable parts of the earth. The -regions of ice and snow are inhabited by -fur-bearing animals, and, at certain seasons of the -year, are frequented by a large variety of aquatic -birds in great abundance, which supply the natives -with food and clothing, while in the tropics, man -has little or no need of fuel and clothing, and, -with very little exertion, he can subsist on the -fruits of the forests, and on the food so liberally -supplied by the sea.</p> -<p>The intensity of the struggle for life increases -with the distance north and south from the -temperate zones, where climatic conditions -necessitate active exercise and where the necessities of -life can only be obtained by the hardest kind of -labor. The climate of the tropics, on the other -hand, is very generous to man. The forests are -rich in fruit yielding trees which Nature plants, -which receive little or no care, yet which bear -fruit throughout the year. Wherever the -cocoa-palm grows in abundance, there can be no famine, -because this tree yields a rich harvest of nutritious -fruit from one end of the year to the other -without fail, as it is never affected to any considerable -extent by drouth and other conditions which so -often bring failure to the orchards in more -temperate climates. The continuous summer and the -wonderful fertility of the soil in tropic and -subtropic countries reward richly the labor of the -husbandman by two and sometimes three -harvests a year, as nature's forces require no rest, no -slumber there.</p> -<p>Life in a changeable, severe climate is full of -hardships; in the tropics, of ease and leisure. The -nearer we come to the tropics, the closer we -approach the conditions of primitive man. The -necessities of life increase as we recede on either -side of the equatorial line. The dreamy, easy, -care-free life in the tropics is in strong contrast -with the severe and arduous struggles for -existence in countries less favored by the resources -of nature.</p> -<p>Among the trees in the Garden of Eden, the -palm tree was undoubtedly the most beautiful, -and it remains to-day the queen of the forests of -the seacoast in the tropics. The palm-clad isles -of the South Sea bear a closer resemblance to the -description of the Garden of Eden than any other -of the many parts of the world that I have ever -seen; and of these, Tahiti is a real paradise on -earth. There is no country nor other isle where -Nature has been so liberal in the distribution of -her gifts. No other island can compare in natural -beauty with Tahiti, the gem of the South Pacific -Ocean. It is the island where life is free of care. -It is the island where the natives are fed, clothed -and housed by nature. It is the island where man -is born, eats his daily bread without being forced -to labor, sleeps and dreams away his life free from -worry, and enjoys the foretaste of the eternal -paradise before he dies. It is the island which -must have been born</p> -<blockquote> -<p>In the morning of the world,</p> -<p>When earth was nigher heaven than now.</p> -<p>BROWNING.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>It is the island of which the poet must have -been musing when he wrote:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Amid an isle around whose rocky shore</p> -<p>The forests murmur and the surges roar,</p> -<p>A goddess guards in her enchanted dome.</p> -<p>POPE.</p> -</blockquote> -</div> -<div class="section" id="the-island-of-tahiti"> -<h1>THE ISLAND OF TAHITI</h1> -<p>About three thousand six hundred miles south -by southwest from San Francisco are the Society -Islands, a small archipelago in the South Pacific -Ocean, in latitude 16 to 18 degrees south, -longitude 148 to 155 degrees west. Captain Cook -named this group in honor of the Royal Society -of London. The largest two of these islands, -Tahiti and Moorea, are of volcanic origin, -mountainous and heavily timbered; the remaining -islands are small, low, of coral origin, and are -called atolls. In approaching the archipelago -from San Francisco, a few of these palm-fringed -atoll islands come first into view, forming a -pleasing foreground to the rugged mountains of -Tahiti and its smaller neighbor, Moorea, which -are sighted almost at the same time. After a -voyage over the desert ocean of thirteen days -(all this time out of sight of land), to gaze on -the most beautiful islands of this group is a -source of exquisite pleasure.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Sea-girt isles,</p> -<p>That like to rich and various gems, inlay</p> -<p>The unadorned bosom of the deep.</p> -<p>MILTON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The South Pacific Ocean is the natural home -of the coral polyps, which are great -island-builders, using the volcanic material as a -foundation for the coral superstructure. As these -minute builders can live only in shallow water, -they use submerged mountain peaks for their -foundations, converting them into low atolls, and -building reefs around the base of the high -volcanic islands. Most of the Society Islands are -of coral formation perched upon submerged -mountain summits. The island of Tahiti is small, -of little commercial interest, and hence it is -comparatively unknown to the masses of the people. -Very few who left the schoolroom twenty-five -years ago would be able to locate it without -consulting a geography, and many have even -forgotten the name. The children fresh from school -recall it in connection with the difficulty they -encountered in finding the little dot in the great, -trackless South Pacific Ocean, surrounded by a -group of still smaller specks, representing the -remainder of the little archipelago to which it -belongs.</p> -<p>Tahiti is nearly four thousand miles distant -from San Francisco, in a southwesterly direction, -below the equator, in latitude 17, hence in a -similar latitude to that of the Hawaiian Islands, -which are situated about the same distance north -of the equator.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image3"> -<img alt="Lighthouse" src="images/Image03.jpg" style="width: 344.0px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">LIGHTHOUSE AND COOK MONUMENT AT HAAPAPE</p> -</div> -<p>I had heard much of the natural beauty of -this far-off island and its interesting inhabitants, -and decided to spend my midwinter vacation in -1904 in paying it a visit. Formerly the passage -from San Francisco had to be made by a -schooner, and required several months. For -the last four years the island has been made -readily accessible by a regular steamer service. -The staunch steamer, <em>Mariposa</em>, of the Oceanic -Steamship Company of San Francisco, sails from -that port every thirty-six days, makes the trip in -twelve or thirteen days, and remains at Papeete, -the capital of the island, four days, which give -the visitor ample time to visit the most interesting -points and make the desired observations. The -track of the steamer is over that part of the -Pacific Ocean which is comparatively free from -violent storms, between the storm centers east -and west from it. The prevailing trade-winds -cool off the tropical heat in the vicinity of the -equator, rendering the voyage at all seasons of -the year a pleasant one. The steamer has a -tonnage of three thousand tons, the service is -excellent, and the table all that could be desired. I -know of no better way to spend a short -mid-winter vacation than a trip to Tahiti, the island -paradise, the most interesting and beautiful of all -islands.</p> -<p>January and February are the months when -the fruit is most abundant, and the climate most -agreeable. The twenty-five days of voyage on -the ocean, the few days on shore occupied by a -study of its natives, their customs, manner of -living, by visits to the various points of historic -interest, and by the greatest of all genuine -pleasures, the contemplation of nature's choicest -exhibitions in the tropics, are all admirably adapted to -procure physical rest and pleasure, and pleasing -as well as profitable mental occupation. A trip to -Tahiti will prove of particular benefit to those -who are in need of mental rest. The absence of -anything like severe storms on this trip should be -a special inducement, for those who are subject -to seasickness, to travel there.</p> -<p>The steamer is well adapted for service in the -tropics, the cabins are roomy and comfortable. -Capt. J. Rennie is one of the most experienced -commanders of the fleet, a good disciplinarian -and devoted to the safety and comfort of his -passengers. While the steamer can accommodate -seventy cabin passengers, the number seldom -exceeds twenty-five. The tourist therefore -escapes crowding and noise, so trying to the -nerves, and so common on the transatlantic -steamers and other more frequented ocean routes.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="ocean-voyage"> -<h1>OCEAN VOYAGE</h1> -<p>The steamer <em>Mariposa</em> leaves the San Francisco -wharf at eleven o'clock a. m.,—an excellent time -for the passengers to enjoy the beauties of the -bay and the Golden Gate, to see the rugged coast -of California gradually disappear in the distance -during the course of the afternoon, and to prepare -himself for the first night's sleep in the cradle -of the deep. The second day out, and until the -mountains of Tahiti come in sight, the traveler -will see nothing but the floating tavern in which -he lives, its inmates, the inky blue ocean, the sky, -clouds, and, occasionally, sea-gulls, and isolated -schools of flying fish. The steamer's track is -over an unfrequented part of the ocean. The -passenger looks in vain for a mast or -white-winged sails, or puffs of smoke in the distance, -sights so often seen on more frequented ocean -highways. The steamer crosses an ocean desert -little known, but out of reach of the violent -storms, so frequent near the coasts, on both sides -free from reefs and rocks, as this part of the -ocean is of unusual depth, amounting in many -places to three miles. Stranding of the vessel, -or collision with others, the greatest dangers -incident to sea travel, are therefore reduced to a -minimum on this route. Although this course is -an unusually lonely one, the interested observer -will find much to see and enjoy. The vast -expanse of the ocean impresses the traveler from -day to day and grows upon him as the distance -from the coast increases.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Illimitable ocean! without bound,</p> -<p>Without dimensions, where length, breadth, and height,</p> -<p>And time, and place, are lost</p> -<p>MILTON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The boundless ocean desert, mirror-like when -at rest, clothed by gentle ripples and ceaseless -wavelets when fanned by the trade-winds, is a -picture of peace and contentment.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The winds with wonder whist,</p> -<p>Smoothly the waters kiss'd,</p> -<p>Whispering new joys to the mild ocean.</p> -<p>MILTON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>But even here in the most peaceful part of the -Pacific, when angered by the fury of a heavy -squall, a diminutive storm agitates the waters into -foam-crested waves, which, for a short time at -least, impart to the ship an intoxicated gait. The -effect of sun, moon and starlight on the smooth, -undulating, heaving, billowing, tossing, -storm-beaten surface of the ocean, is marvelous. When -all is quiet, and the passenger is only conscious of -the vibratory movements imparted to the ship by -the ceaseless action of the faithful screw, and the -lights of heaven are veiled by a curtain of dark -clouds, the beautiful blue gives way to a sombre -black. When the tropic sun shines with all his -force, the color of the water fairly vies with the -deep blue of the sky, and the nearer we approach -our destination, the tints of blue grow deeper and -deeper, until at last they are of perfect indigo.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image4"> -<img alt="KING POMARE V." src="images/Image04.jpg" style="width: 388.0px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">KING POMARE V.</p> -</div> -<p>The moon and starlight have a magic effect on -the surface of the water. The long evenings give -the passengers the exquisite pleasure of watching -the journey of the moon across the starlit -heavenly dome, growing, night after night, from a mere -sickle to her full majestic size, and of observing -the effects of the gradually increasing intensity of -the light issuing from the welcome visitor of the -night, on the glassy mirror of water beneath. -The star-bedecked pale dome of the tropic sky -is, in itself, a picture that rivets the attention of -the traveler who loves and studies the book of -nature. The short twilight over, "these blessed -candles of the night" (Shakespeare) are lighted, -and send their feeble light down upon the bosom -of the ocean.</p> -<p>If the sky is clear, the illuminating power of -the moon at its best, and the ocean calm, its -surface is transformed into a boundless sheet of -silver. This magic effect of moonlight on the -surface of the sleeping ocean is magnified by -passing fleecy, or dark, storm-threatening clouds. -The fleeting, fleecy clouds often veil, only in part, -the lovely, full face of the moon, and through -fissures, the rays of light issue, and, falling upon -the water, are reflected in the form of silvery -patches or pathways, corresponding in size and -outline with the temporary window in the passing -cloud. It is when the moon is about to be hidden -behind a dark, impenetrable veil that the -spectator may expect to see the most wonderful -display of pictures above and around him. As the -cloud approaches the moon, the blue background -deepens in color and brilliancy and when its dark -margin touches the rim of the moon it is changed -into a fringe of gold or silver; with the -disappearance of the moon behind the cloud the fringe of -the latter is rudely torn away, the water beneath -is robbed of its carpet of silver, and the -captivated observer is made aware that the darkness -of night is upon him. But the gloom is of short -duration. A break in the cloud serves as a -window through which the moon peeps down, -with a most bewitching grace, upon the dark -surface beneath. The prelude to this exhibition -appears on the side of the temporary frame, in -the form of a silver lining which broadens with -the moving cloud; now the rim of the moon -comes into view; slowly, the veil is completely -thrown aside, and Luna's calm, pale, smiling, full -face makes its appearance, enclosed in a dark -frame with silver margins, while, more than -likely, she will be attended by a few brilliant -stars, thus completing the charms and beauty -of the picture suspended from the heavenly -dome. All genuine pleasures of this world are -of short duration; so with this nocturnal picture -painted on the clouds and water. The silver rim -on one side of the frame of clouds disappears, the -dark margin increases in width, the moon is -obscured, and only a few flickering stars remain -fixed in the picture.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Surely there is something in the unruffled calm of -nature that overcomes our little anxieties and doubts: -the sight of the deep blue sky, and the clustering stars -above, seem to impart a quiet to the mind.</p> -<p>JONATHAN EDWARDS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>In midocean is the place to view at greatest -advantage the gorgeous sunrise and sunset of the -tropics. To see the sun disappear in the distance, -where the dome of the sky seems to rest on the -bosom of the ocean, is a scene which no pen can -describe, and which no artist's brush has ever -reproduced in any degree comparable with the -grand reality. The canvas of the sky behind the -setting glowing orb, and the passing clouds in -front, above, and beneath it, are painted -successively by the invisible brush in the unseen hands -of the departing artist in colors and shades of -colors that may well laugh to scorn any and all -attempts at description or reproduction. The -gilded horizon serves as a fitting background for -the retreating monarch of the day, and the slowly -moving canvas of clouds transmits his last -messages in all the hues of red, crimson, pink, and -yellow. To observe this immense panorama -stretched from north to south, and projected -toward the east, resting on the silvery surface of -the rippling ocean, with the ever-varying colors -of the slowly moving clouds, as seen evening -after evening on the Tahitian trip, leaves -impressions which time can not erase from memory.</p> -<p>Night on board the <em>Mariposa</em> has additional -attractions for the passengers who appreciate the -wonders and beauties of nature. When the night -is dark, they find a place in the stern of the ship, -lean against the taffrail, and watch the water -agitated into a diminutive storm by the powerful -screw. There one beholds a sight sufficiently -attractive and interesting to keep him spellbound -for an hour or more. The indolent, -phosphorescent sea-amoeba has been roused into action by -the merciless revolutions of the motor of the ship, -and emits its diamond sparks of phosphorescent -light. Thousands of these little beings discharge -their magic light in the white veil of foam which -adorns the crests of the storm-beaten surface, in -the form of a narrow track as far as the eye can -reach in the darkness of the night. The flashes -of light thrown off by these minute, to the naked -eye invisible, inhabitants of the sea, when angered -by the rude action of the screw, appear and -disappear in the twinkling of an eye. When these -tiny, light-producing animals are numerous, as -is the case in the equatorial region, the -snow-white veil of foam is richly decorated with -diamond sparks which, when they coalesce, form -flames of fire in the track of the vessel.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image5"> -<img alt="POMARE IV." src="images/Image05.jpg" style="width: 377.0px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">POMARE IV. -The Queen of the Story of Ariitaimai of Tahiti</p> -</div> -<p>The ocean voyage has occasionally still another -surprise in store for the traveler when he reaches -the South Pacific. A squall is a tempest on a -small scale. We see in the distance a dark cloud -of immense size which seems to ride slowly over -the surface of the smooth sea. The gentle breeze -gives way to a strong wind, the surface of the -water becomes ruffled with whitecaps, the -darkness increases, and at irregular intervals the -threatening, angry cloud is lighted up by chains -of lightning thrown in all possible directions; -these flashes are followed by peals of thunder, and -by prolonged rumbling, which becomes feebler -and feebler, and finally dies away far out on the -surface of the ocean. The steamer penetrates the -storm area. Darkness prevails. Gigantic drops -of rain strike the deck and patter upon the canvas -awning, the harbingers of a drenching rain.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>And now the thick'ned sky</p> -<p>Like a dark ceiling stood; down rush'd the rain impetuous.</p> -<p>MILTON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The cloud and darkness are left behind, and a -clear sky and smooth sea ahead greet the -passengers. Did you ever see a rainbow at midnight? -Such an unusual nocturnal spectral phenomenon -greeted us in midocean: the full moon in the east, -the delicate rainbow in its infinite colors painted -on the clouds in the west. Our captain, who had -lived on the tropic sea for a quarter of a -century, had never seen the like before. It was -reserved for us to see a rainbow painted by the -moon. With such pleasant diversions, by day -and by night, we soon forget the ocean desert, -and yet on the last day of the voyage we welcome -the sight of land.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Be of good cheer, I see land.</p> -<p>DIOGENES.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The vastness of the ocean and the smallness of -Tahiti are in strange contrast. How the mariner, -in setting the compass on leaving the harbor of -San Francisco, can so unerringly find this little -speck in the ocean nearly four thousand miles -away, is an accomplishment which no one, not -versed in the science of navigation can fully -comprehend. We sighted Tahiti during the early -part of the forenoon. The peaks of the two -highest mountains in Tahiti, Oroheua and Aorii, -seven to eight thousand feet in height, projected -spectre-like from the surface of the ocean. These -peaks appeared as bare, sharp, conical points in the -clear sky above a mantle of clouds which -enveloped the balance of the island. This misty -draping of the two highest mountains takes place -almost every day, as the clouds are attracted by -the constant moisture of the soil, due to the -dense forests and luxuriant tropical vegetation.</p> -<p>The next sight of land brought into view the -rugged mountains of Moorea and a group of -small atoll islands. Moorea is in plain view from -Papeete, and is the second largest of the Society -Islands. Before we look at Tahiti at close range, -let us examine the group of atoll islands which -the steamer passes close enough to give us a -good idea of their formation.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="the-atoll-islands"> -<h1>THE ATOLL ISLANDS</h1> -<p>The atoll islands, so numerous in the South -Seas, have a uniform conformation, and are of -coral, deposited upon submerged summits of -mountains of volcanic origin. The floor of the -Pacific, like many other parts of the earth's -surface, is undergoing constant changes, -increasing or diminishing its level. Here and there, at -certain intervals, volcanic eruptions have created -mountains, which, in Hawaii, rise to nearly -fourteen thousand and, in Tahiti, to over seven -thousand feet. Around each of these innumerable -islands and islets in the great Pacific Ocean the -coral polyps have a fringing reef of rock. As -these minute creatures can live only at a depth -of twenty to thirty fathoms, and die as soon as -exposed to the air, their life-work is confined to -the coast of volcanic islands. Whenever, as it -often happened, the island upon which they had -congregated was slowly sinking, they would -elevate their wall to save themselves from death -in deep water. It is evident that if this process -continued long enough, the land would entirely -disappear and leave a submerged circular wall of -coral just below the level of the low tide. The -effects of the waves in breaking off the coral -formation, large and small, in elevating them, -would, in course of time, produce a ring of -sandy beach, rising above the sea surrounding -the central basin, filled with salt water entering -through one or many open channels. Upon the -beach, cocoanuts, washed ashore, would find a -favorable soil for germination, and, ere long, -stately palms would fringe the rim of the enclosed -lagoon. Every atoll island has a peripheral -fringe of cocoa-palms and a central lagoon which -communicates with the ocean by one or more -channels. Such an island is an atoll, the final -stage in the disappearance of a volcanic islet -from the surface of the sea. Such islands are -numerous in the Society Islands, and the -Paumotuan Archipelago consists exclusively of -such atoll islands.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image6"> -<img alt="MOOREA" src="images/Image06.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 374.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">VIEW OF MOOREA</p> -</div> -<p>It is interesting to know how these minute -coral polyps manage their work of island-building, -or, rather, island-preservation. Coral -formation is a calcareous secretion or deposit of many -kinds of zoöphytes of the class Anthozoa, which -assumes infinite and often beautiful forms, -according to the different laws which govern the -manner of germination of the polyps of various -species. The coral-producing zoöphytes are -compound animals, which multiply in the very -swiftest manner, by germination or budding, -young polyp buds springing from the original -polyp, sometimes indifferently from any part of -its surface, sometimes only from its upper -circumference or from its base, and not separating -from it, but remaining in the same spot when -the original parent or polyp is dead, and -producing buds in their turn. The reproductive -capacity of these polyps is marvelous and explains the -greatness of their work in building up whole -islands and the countless submerged reefs so -much dreaded by the mariners of the South Seas. -The calcareous deposition begins when the -zoöphytes are still simple polyps, owing their -existence to oviparous reproduction, adhering to a -rock or other substance, to which the calcareous -material becomes attached, and on which the -coral is built up, the hard deposits of past -generations forming the base to which those of the -progeny are attracted. The coral formation takes -place with astonishing rapidity; under favorable -circumstances, masses of coral have been found -to increase in height several feet in a few months, -and a channel cut in a reef surrounding a coral -island, to permit the passage of a schooner, has -been blocked with coral in ten years. Coral -formations have been found immediately attached -to the land, whilst in many other cases the reef -surrounds the island, the intervening space, of -irregular, but nowhere of great width, forming a -lagoon or channel of deep water, protected by -the reef from wind and waves. According to -Darwin, this kind of reef is formed from a reef -of the former merely fringing kind, by the -gradual subsidence of the rocky basis, carrying -down the fringe of coral to a greater depth; -whilst the greatest activity of life is displayed by -polyps of the kind most productive of large -masses of coral in the outer parts which are -most exposed to the waves. In this manner he -also accounts for the formation of true coral -islands, or atolls, which consist merely of a -narrow reef of coral surrounding a central -lagoon, and very often of a reef, perhaps half a -mile in breadth, clothed with luxuriant -vegetation and the never-absent cocoa-palms, -bordered by a narrow beach of snowy whiteness, and -forming an arc, the convexity of which is toward -the prevailing wind, whilst a straight line of reef -not generally rising above the reach of the tide, -forms the chord of the arc. The reef is -generally intersected by a narrow channel into the -enclosed lagoon, the waters of which are still and -beautifully transparent, teeming with the greatest -variety of fish. Its surface is enlivened by -water-fowl, and the depth of water close to the -precipitous sides of the reef is almost always very -great. The channels are kept open by the flux -and reflux of the tide, the current and waves of -which are often so swift and high as to become -a menace to schooners attempting entrance into -the lagoon. On the beach, soil most conducive -to the growth of cocoanut-palms is formed by -accumulation of sand, shells, fragments of coral, -seaweeds, decayed leaves, etc. The giant -cocoanuts planted in this soil either by the hand of man -or by the waves washing them ashore, germinate -quickly, and in a few years the narrow circular -strip of land enclosing the lagoon is fringed with -colonnades of tall fruit-bearing palms. These -islands rise nowhere more than a few feet above -the level of the sea. Sometimes the upheaval of -coral formation by volcanic action results in the -making of a real island, in which event the lagoon -disappears. Islands with such an origin -sometimes rise to a height of five hundred feet and -often exhibit precipitous cliffs and contain -extensive caves. I had read a description of the -Paumotu atoll islands by Stevenson, and -consequently I was much interested in the little group -of atolls we passed before coming into full view -of Tahiti. As these islands, like all true atolls, -are only a few feet above the level of the sea, -they can not be seen from the sea at anything like -a great distance. When they were pointed out -to us by an officer of the steamer, we could see -no land; they appeared like oases in the desert, -green patches in the ocean, due to the -cocoapalms which guarded their shores. As we came -nearer, we could make out the rim of land and -the snow-white coral beach. The smallest of -these atoll islands are not inhabited, but regular -visits are made to them in a small schooner or -native double canoe to harvest and bring to -market the never-failing crops of cocoanuts.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image7"> -<img alt="TAHITI FROM THE HARBOR OF PAPEETE" src="images/Image07.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 375.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">TAHITI FROM THE HARBOR OF PAPEETE</p> -</div> -</div> -<div class="section" id="the-landing-at-papeete"> -<h1>THE LANDING AT PAPEETE</h1> -<p>As we left the atolls behind us and neared -Tahiti, we could see more clearly the outlines of -the rugged island, disrobed, by this time, of its -vestments of clouds. From a distance, the carpet -of green which extends from its base to near the -summit of the highest peaks is varied here and -there by patches of red volcanic earth, thus -adding to the picturesqueness of the scene. What at -first appears as a greensward on the shore, on -nearer view discloses itself as a broad fringe of -cocoa-palms, extending from the edge of the -ocean to the foot of the mountains, and from -there well up on their slopes, where they are lost -in the primeval forest. Above the tree-line, low -shrubs and hardy grasses compose the verdure -up to the bare, brown mountain-peaks. The -largest trees are seen in the mountains' deep -ravines, which are cut out of the side of the -heights by gushing of cold, clear waters, which -drain the very heart of the mountains, bounding -and leaping over boulders and rapids in their race -to a resting-place in the near-by calm waters of -the lagoon. As we came nearer to the island we -were able to make out the white lighthouse -on Point Venus, seven miles from Papeete. Here, -Captain Cook, during one of his visits to the -island, was stationed for a considerable length of -time for the purpose of observing the transit of -Venus; hence the name of the point.</p> -<p>Near the harbor, a native pilot came on board, -and, by careful maneuvering, safely guided the -ship through the very narrow channel in the reef -into the harbor, with the tricolor flying from the -top mast. From the harbor, the little city of -Papeete and the island present an inspiring view. -A charming islet on the left as we enter the -harbor, looks like an emerald set in the blue -water. It serves as a quarantine station, and -the little snow-white buildings upon it appear like -toy houses. The small city is spread out among -cocoa-palms, ornamental and shade trees. The -green of the foliage of these trees is continuous -with the forest-clad mountains which form the -background of the beautiful plateau on which the -city is built. The harbor of Papeete is land and -reef-locked, small, but deep enough to float the -largest steamers plying in the Pacific Ocean. As -the steamer came up slowly to the wharf, -hundreds of people, a strange mixture of natives, -half-castes, Europeans and Chinese, old and -young, dressed in clothes of all imaginable colors, -red being by far the most predominant, crowded -the dock. Many of the children were naked, -and not a few of the men and boys were -unencumbered by clothing, with the exception of the -typical, much checkered Tahitian cotton -loin-cloth. A number of handsome carriages brought -the élite of the city to take part in this most -important of all monthly events.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>They come to see; they come to be seen.</p> -<p>OVIDIUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Custom-house officers, uniformed native -policemen, government officials, French soldiers and -merchants, mingled with the dusky natives and -contributed much to the uniqueness of the -landing-scene. The dense, motley crowd was anxious -to see and be seen, but was orderly and well -behaved. The custom-house officers were -accommodating and courteous, and passed our -hand-baggage without inspection. On the wharf was -a small mountain of cocoanuts, in readiness to -be loaded as a part of the return cargo of the -<em>Mariposa</em>.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="the-city-of-papeete"> -<h1>THE CITY OF PAPEETE</h1> -<p>Papeete is the capital of Tahiti, the seat of -government of the entire archipelago, and the -principal commercial city of the French -possessions in Oceanica. It is a typical city of the -South Sea world, as it is viewed from the deck -of the steamer and while walking or riding along -its narrow, crooked streets. From the harbor, -little can be seen of its buildings, except the -spire of the cathedral and the low steeples of two -Protestant churches, the low tower of the -governor's palace, formerly the home of royalty, the -military hospital, the wharf, and a few business -houses loosely scattered along the principal -street, the Quai du Commerce that skirts the -harbor. The residence part of the city is hidden -behind towering cocoa-palms and magnificent -shade-trees among which the flamboyant (burau) -trees are the most beautiful. It is situated on -a low plateau with a background of -forest-clad mountains, the beautiful little harbor, the -spray-covered coral reef, the vast ocean and the -picturesque outlines of Moorea in front of it.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image8"> -<img alt="PALM FOREST" src="images/Image08.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 370.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">IN THE SHADOW OF THE PALM FOREST</p> -</div> -<p>Papeete has no sidewalks. The streets are -narrow, irregularly laid out, and none of them -paved. Most of the houses are one-story frame -buildings, covered with corrugated iron roofs. -There are only two or three large stores; the -remaining business-places are small shops, many -of them owned and managed by Chinamen. The -present population, made up of natives of all -tints, from a light chocolate to nearly white, six -to eight hundred whites and about three hundred -Chinese, numbers in the neighborhood of five -thousand, nearly half of the population of the -entire island. There are about five hundred -Chinese in the island, who, by their industry and -knowledge of business methods, have become -formidable competitors of the merchants from -other foreign countries. Their small shops and -coffee-houses in Papeete and the country districts -are well patronized by the natives.</p> -<p>Papeete is the commercial center of Oceanica. -There are no department stores there. Business -is specialized more there than perhaps in any -other city. All of the shops, even the largest, look -small in the eyes of Americans. There are dry -goods stores, grocery stores, millinery shops, two -small frame hotels, the Hotel Francais and -another smaller one, both on the Quai, a few -boarding-houses, two saloons, and no bank. The -scarcity of saloons can be explained by the fact -that the natives are temperate in their habits. -According to a law enforced by the government, -the native women are prohibited from -frequenting such places.</p> -<p>The public wash-basin, supplied with running -fresh water from a mountain stream, is a sight -worth seeing. From a dozen to twenty native -women, and a few soldiers, may be found here -almost any time of the day, paddling knee-deep -in the water, using stones in place of washboards -in performing their arduous work. This -primitive way of washing gives excellent results, -judging from the snow-white, spotless linen -garments worn by the Europeans and well-to-do -natives.</p> -<p>The little plaza or square in the center of the -city is used as a market-place where natives -congregate at five o'clock in the morning, to make -their modest purchases of fish, plantain, -pineapple, melon or preserved shrimp done up in -joints of bamboo. This is the place to learn what -the islanders produce, sell and buy.</p> -<p>The public buildings are well adapted for a -tropic climate. The most important of these is -the palace of the last of the Tahitian kings, now -used as the office of the government. It is a -handsome white building, surrounded by ample -grounds well laid out, and beautified by trees, -shrubs and flowers. The government -schoolhouse is an enormous frame building, resting -upon posts, several feet from the ground, with -more than one-half of its walls taken up by -arched windows, the best lighted and most -thoroughly ventilated building in the city, an -ideal schoolhouse for the tropics. Among the -churches of different denominations, the -Catholic cathedral is the largest and best, although in -the States it would not be considered an ornament -for a small country village.</p> -<p>The city is well supplied with pure water from -a mountain stream, but lacks a system of -sewerage. The gardens and grounds of the best -residences of the foreigners present an exquisite -display of flowers that flourish best in the tropic -soil, under the invigorating rays of the tropic -sun, and the soothing effects of the frequent -showers of rain, which are not limited to any -particular season of the year.</p> -<p>Papeete, like all cities in the equatorial region, -is a city of supreme idleness and freedom from -care. The citizens can not comprehend that -"The great principle of human satisfaction -is engagement" (Paley). This idleness is -inherent in the natives, and under the climatic -conditions, and I suppose to a certain extent by -suggestion, is soon acquired by the foreigners. -Contentment and absence of anxiety characterize -the life of the Tahitian. He has no desire to -accumulate wealth; he is satisfied with little. He -is "shut up in measureless content" -(Shakespeare); he is inspired with the good idea that -"he that maketh haste to be rich, shall not be -innocent" (Proverb xxviii: 20). The merchants -open their shops at sunrise, lock the doors at ten, -retire to their homes for breakfast, take their -two-hour siesta, return to their business, suspend -work at five, and the remainder of the day and -the entire evening are devoted to rest, social visits -and divers amusements. The social center of -the foreigners is the Cercle Bougainville, a small -frame building which serves the purpose of a -club house. Bicycling is a favorite means of -travel and sport for the Europeans as well as the -natives of all classes. This vehicle has found its -way not only into the capital city but also into the -country districts throughout the island. The -splendid macadamized road which encircles the -island furnishes a great inducement for this sport. -Two of the wealthiest citizens travel the -principal streets in the city and the ninety-mile drive -in the most modern fashion by riding an -automobile.</p> -<p>There are few if any door locks in private -residences, hotels and boarding-houses, the best -possible proof that the inhabitants are -law-abiding citizens. In the boarding-house in which -I lived, the main entrance was left wide open -during the night, and none of the door locks -was supplied with a key. The native women wear -Mother Hubbard gowns of bright calico; the -better class of men dress in European fashion, -while the laborers and men from the country -districts wear a pareu (loin-cloth) of bright -calico, with or without an undershirt. The -average Tahitian does not believe in:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>We are captivated by dress.</p> -<p>OVIDIUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image9"> -<img alt="THE S.S. MARIPOSA" src="images/Image09.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 382.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">THE S.S. "MARIPOSA" LEAVING THE HARBOR OF PAPEETE, November 13, 1903</p> -</div> -</div> -<div class="section" id="topography-of-the-island"> -<h1>TOPOGRAPHY OF THE ISLAND</h1> -<blockquote> -<p>Into the silent land!</p> -<p>Ah, who shall lead us thither?</p> -<p>VON SALIS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>There is no spot on earth more free from care, -worry and unrest than the island of Tahiti. The -abundance with which nature here has provided -for the wants of man, the uniform soothing -climate, the calmness of the Pacific Ocean, the -pleasing scenery quiet the nerves, induce sleep -and reduce to a minimum the efforts of man in -the struggle for life. It is the island of peace, -contentment and rest, a paradise on earth.</p> -<p>No writer has ever done justice to the natural -beauties of this gem of the South Seas. The -towering mountains, the tropical forests, the -numerous rippling streams of crystal water, -shaded dark ravines, the palm-fringed shore, the -lagoons with their quiet, peaceful, clear waters -painted in most exquisite colors of all shades of -green, blue and salmon by the magic influence of -the tropical sun, their outside wall of coral reef -ceaselessly kissed by the caressing, foaming, -moaning surf, the near-by picturesque island of -Moorea, with its precipitous mountains rising -from the deep bed of the sea, the flat basin-like, -palm-fringed atolls in the distance, and the vast -ocean beyond, make up a combination of pictures -of which the mind never tires, and which engrave -themselves indelibly on the tablet of memory.</p> -<p>Tahiti is a typical mountain island, protected -against the aggressive ocean by a coral reef -which forms almost a complete wall around it, -enclosing lagoons of much beauty, which teem -with a great variety of fish. It is thirty-five -miles in length, and on an average twelve miles -in breadth. It is shaped somewhat in the form -of an hourglass, the narrow part at Isthmus -Terrawow. The circuit of the island by -following the coast is less than one hundred and twenty -miles. The ninety-mile drive which engirdles the -island cuts off some of the irregular projections -into the sea. The interior is very mountainous -and cut into ravines so deep that it has never been -inhabited to any extent. The highest peaks are -Orohena and Aorii, from seven to eight thousand -feet in height, the former cleft into two points -of rock which are often draped with dark masses -of tropic clouds. Numerous other peaks of -lesser magnitude are crowded together in the -center of the island, their broad foundations -encroaching upon the plain. The people live on the -narrow strip of low land at the base of the -mountains and running down to the shore, where -the soil is exceedingly fertile and always well -watered by numerous rivers, brooks and rivulets. -Numberless cascades can be seen from the -ninety-mile drive, leaping over cliffs and appearing like -silver threads in the dark green of the -mountain-sides. The strip of arable land at the base of the -mountains varies in width from the bare -precipitous cliffs, without even a beach, to one, or -perhaps in the widest places, two miles. The -larger streams have cut out a few broader valleys. -It is this narrow strip of land which is inhabited, -the little villages being usually located near the -mouth of a river on the coast-line, insuring for -the inhabitants a pure water-supply and facilities -for fresh-water bathing, a frequent and pleasant -pastime for the natives of both sexes and all -ages.</p> -<p>Wherever there is sufficient depth of soil, -vegetation is rampant. The fertility of the soil and -the stimulating effect of constant moisture on -vegetable life are best seen by the vitality -exhibited by the fence-posts. I have seen fence-posts -a foot and more in circumference, after being -implanted in the soil, strike root, sprout and -develop into trees of no small size. The -mountains, and more especially the ravines, are heavily -timbered. There is no place on earth where the -scenery is more beautiful and sublime than at -many points along the ninety-mile drive. The -lofty mountains, the fertile plain, the many rivers, -brooks, rivulets and glimpses of foaming -cascades, lagoons, of the surf beating the coral reef -in the distance, the limitless ocean beyond, the -luxuriant rampant vegetation, the beautiful -flowers, the majestic palm-trees, the quaint villages -and their interesting inhabitants, form a picture -which is beautiful, and, at the same time, sublime. -As a whole it is sublime; in detail, beautiful.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Beauty charms, sublimity awes us, and is often accompanied -with a feeling resembling fear; while beauty rather -attracts and draws us towards it.</p> -<p>FLEMING.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Let us see how Captain Cook was impressed -with Tahiti when he first cast his eyes upon this -gem of the Pacific:</p> -<blockquote> -Perhaps there is scarcely a spot in the universe that -affords a more luxuriant prospect than the southeast -part of Otaheite [Tahiti.] The hills are high and steep, -and, in many places, craggy. But they are covered to -the very summits with trees and shrubs, in such a -manner that the spectator can scarcely help thinking -that the very rocks possess the property of producing -and supporting their verdant clothing. The flat land -which bounds those hills toward the sea, and the -interjacent valleys also, teem with various productions that -grow with the most exuberant vigour; and, at once, fill -the mind of the beholder with the idea that no place -upon earth can outdo this, in the strength and beauty -of vegetation. Nature has been no less liberal in -distributing rivulets, which are found in every valley, and -as they approach the sea, often divide into two or three -branches, fertilizing the flat lands through which they -run.</blockquote> -<p>Tahiti is the same to-day as when Captain -Cook visited it for the first time. The only -decided changes which have taken place since -are the building up of the capital city Papeete, -and the construction of the ninety-mile drive. -The beauty of the island has been maintained -because the natives have preserved the -magnificent primeval forests. Strip Tahiti of its -forests and it will be made a desert in a few years. -Nature relies on the forests to attract the clouds -which bring the moisture, and assist in the -formation and preservation of the soil. Remove the -trees, and drouth and floods will destroy -vegetation, and the latter will wash the existing soil -into the hungry abyss of the ocean. Fertile and -beautiful as Captain Cook found Tahiti, he -deprecated the idea of settling it with whites.</p> -<blockquote> -Our occasional visits may, in some respects, have -benefited its inhabitants; but a permanent -establishment amongst them, conducted as most European -establishments amongst Indian nations have -unfortunately been, would, I fear, give them just cause to -lament that our ships had ever found them out. Indeed, -it is very unlikely that any measure of this kind should -ever be seriously thought of, as it can neither serve the -purposes of public ambition, nor of private avarice; -and, without such inducements, I may pronounce, that -it will never be undertaken.</blockquote> -<p>The island has been invaded and taken by the -whites and the results to the natives have been in -many respects disastrous, which goes to prove -the correctness of Captain Cook's prophecy.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image10"> -<img alt="THE ROYAL PALACE" src="images/Image10.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 381.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">THE ROYAL PALACE (Now the headquarters of the Governor).</p> -</div> -</div> -<div class="section" id="the-climate"> -<h1>THE CLIMATE</h1> -<p>The climate of Tahiti, although tropical, is -favorably influenced by the trade-winds and -frequent showers. The breezes from ocean and -land keep the heated atmosphere in motion, and -the frequent rains throughout the year have a -direct effect in lowering the temperature. The -entire island from the shore to the highest -mountain-peaks, is covered by forests and a vigorous -vegetation. These retain the moisture and -attract the pregnant clouds, securing, throughout -the year, a sufficient rainfall to feed the many -mountain streams and water the rich soil of the -mountain-sides, valleys, ravines and lowlands -along the coast. The temperature seldom exceeds -90 degrees Fahrenheit, and during the coldest -months, March and April, it occasionally falls -as low as 65 degrees Fahrenheit. -The atmosphere is charged with humidity, and when this -condition reaches the maximum degree, the heat -is oppressive, more especially when there is no -land or ocean breeze. If a hotel could be built -at an elevation of three to four thousand feet -above the level of the sea, the guests would find -a climate which could not be surpassed in any -other part of the world. A prolonged residence -in Papeete or any other part of the island near -the sea-level is debilitating for the whites. Those -of the white inhabitants who can afford it, leave -the island every three or five years and seek -recuperation and a renewal of energy in a cooler -climate, usually in California or Europe. Papeete, -partially enclosed by mountains, and only a few -feet above the level of the sea, and on the -leeward side of the island, is said to be one of the -warmest places in the island. The village of -Papara gets the full benefit of the trade-winds -and the land-breeze, and is one of the coolest -spots in Tahiti. Tahiti's summer-time is our -winter. I was fortunate in visiting the island -during the latter part of January. It is the time -when Nature makes a special effort here to -produce the luxuriant vegetation after the -drenching rains of December. It is the time when the -evergreen trees cast off, here and there, a faded -leaf, to be replaced by a new one from the -vigorous unfolding buds. It is the season of flowers -and the greatest variety of fruits. It may -interest the reader to know that one day seven -different kinds of fruits were served at the -breakfast-table, a luxury out of reach of our millionaires at -their homes in the North at that time of the year. -For a winter vacation, the months of -January and February offer the greatest -inducements. Those who are in need of an ideal mental -rest, and are fond of a long ocean voyage, and -enjoy tropic scenery and the marvelous products -of the fertile soil of the tropics, should not fail -to visit Tahiti, the little paradise in the midst of -the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="history-of-the-island"> -<h1>HISTORY OF THE ISLAND</h1> -<blockquote> -<p>History is the witness of the times, the torch of -truth, the life of memory, the teacher of life, the -messenger of antiquity.</p> -<p>CICERO.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>It was my privilege during my brief stay in -Tahiti to meet Tati Salmon, chief of the Papara -district. He is a direct descendant of one of the -two noble families of the island, the Tevas, and -one of the most prominent and influential citizens -of the island. I asked him to what race the -Tahitians belonged. To this question he had a -ready reply. He said: "We belong to no race; -man was created here; this is the lost Garden of -Eden." There is much force, if not truth, in -this assertion when we take into consideration -the charming beauty of the island and the -bounteous provisions which Nature has made here for -the existence of man. Then, too, the Tahitian -is a good specimen of manhood, intellectually and -physically, far superior to the Negro race and -the Mongolian. Ariitaimai (Arii Taimai E), the -mother of the chief just referred to and the -authoress of the book mentioned in the preface, -believes that the Tahitians belong to the great -Aryan race, the race of Arii, and that their -chiefs were Arii, not kings, and the head chiefs, -Ariirahi—Great Chiefs. It was only the latter -who were entitled to wear the girdle of red -feathers, as much the symbol of their preeminence -as the crown and sceptre of European royalty. -The Tahitians are Polynesians, like the -inhabitants of most of the South Seas and of Hawaii, -and there can be but little doubt that the -Polynesians belong to the Malay race, having migrated -from island to island, from west to east, by way -of Java, Samoa and the Hawaiian Islands. As -these voyages had to be made by means of frail -canoes, we can readily conceive the hardships -endured by the bold navigators of centuries ago. -A story current in Tahiti relates that it was thus -that the great chief Olopaua of Hawaii, driven -from home by disastrous floods, bore his wife -Lu'ukia in the twelfth century, to find a new -dwelling place in Tahiti, twenty-three hundred -miles away. It is said that the chiefess was a -poetess, a dancer famed for grace, and the -inventor of a style of dress which is still made by -the Hawaiians. Many of the primitive peoples -trace their origin to a legend which is handed -down from generation to generation.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>In all ages of the world there is nothing with which -mankind hath been so much delighted as with those -little fictitious stories which go under the name of fables -or apologues among the ancient heathens, and of -parables in the sacred writings.</p> -<p>BISHOP PORTEUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The Tevas of Tahiti have their legend and it -is related by Ariitaimai, as it has been told for -many generations. They take pride in the story -that they are the direct descendants from the -Shark God. The legend tells how many -centuries ago a chief of Punaauia, by the name of -Te manutu-ruu, married a chiefess of Vaiari, -named Hototu, and had a son, Terii te moanarau. -At the birth of the child, the father set out in -his canoe for the Paumotu Islands to obtain red -feathers (Ura) to make the royal belt for the -young prince. The legend begins by assuming -that Vaiari was the oldest family, with its Maraes, -and that Punaauia was later in seniority and rank. -While Te manutu-ruu was absent on his long -voyage to the Paumotus, a visitor appeared at -Vaiari, and was entertained by the chiefess. This -visitor was the first ancestor of the Tevas. He -was only half human, the other half fish, or Shark -God; and he swam from the ocean, through the -reef, into the Vaihiria River, where he came -ashore, and introduced himself as Vari -mataauhoe, and, after having partaken of the -hospitalities of the chiefess, took up his residence with -her. But after their intimacy had lasted some -time, one day, when they were together, Hototu's -dog came into the house and showed his -affection for his mistress by licking her face, or, -as we should say now, kissed her, although in -those days this mark of affection was unknown, -as the Polynesians instead only touched noses -as an affectionate greeting. At this the -man-shark was so displeased that he abandoned the -chiefess. He walked into the river, turned fish -again and swam out to sea. On his way he met -the canoe of the Chief Te manutu-ruu returning -from the Paumotus, and stopped to speak to him. -The chief invited Vari mataauhoe to return with -him, but the man-shark declined, giving as his -reason that the chiefess was too fond of dogs.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image11"> -<img alt="AVENUE OF PURRANUIA, PAPEETE" src="images/Image11.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 379.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">AVENUE OF PURRANUIA, PAPEETE</p> -</div> -<p>The legend proves that the natives regarded -Vaiari as the source of their aristocracy. Papara -makes the same claim, for when Vari mataauhoe -left Hototu he said to her: "You will bear me a -child; if a girl, she will belong to you and take -your name; but if a boy, you are to call him -Teva; rain and wind will accompany his birth, -and to whatever spot he goes, rain and wind will -always foretell his coming. He is of the race of -Ariirahi, and you are to build him a Marae -which you are to call Matava (the two eyes of -Tahiti), and there he is to wear the Marotea, -and he must be known as the child of Ahurei -(the wind that blows from Taiarapu)." A boy -was born, and, as foretold, in rain and wind. -The name of Teva was given to him; and Matoa -was built; and there Teva ruled. From this boy -came the name Teva; but when and how it was -applied to the clan no one knows. The members -of the tribe or clan believe it must have been -given by the Arii of Papara or Vaiari. To this -day, the Tevas seldom travel without rain and -wind, so that they use the word Teva -rarivari—Teva wet always and everywhere. The Vaiari -people still point out the place where the first -ancestor of the clan lived as a child, his first -bathing place, and the different waters in which -he fished as he came on his way toward Papara. -This legend is to-day as fresh in the district of -Papara as it was centuries ago. It is but natural -that the Tevas, one of the two most influential -and powerful of the tribes of Tahiti, should be -anxious to trace their ancestry to a royal origin -even if the first ancestor should be a man-shark, -little remembering that</p> -<blockquote> -<p>It is not wealth nor ancestry, but honorable conduct -and a noble disposition that make men great.</p> -<p>OVIDIUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>As the Tahitians had no written language -before the missionaries visited the island, little -is known of its earlier history. The history -of the island since its discovery has been -accurately written up by Ariitaimai, an eye-witness of -many of the most stirring events and on that -account most to be relied upon, for</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The only good histories are those that have been -written by the persons themselves who commanded in -the affairs whereof they write.</p> -<p>MONTAIGNE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Let us follow her account of the history of -the island since its discovery by Captain Samuel -Wallis, June 18, 1767. The captain made a -voyage around the world in Her Majesty's ship -<em>Dolphin</em>, and on his way found the island, and -called it Otaheite. At that time, Amo was head -chief of Papara and of the Tevas, or rather his -son Teriirere, born about 1762, was head chief, -and Amo exercised power as his guardian, -according to native custom, which made the -eldest child immediately on birth, the head of the -family. At that time the power of calling the -Tevas to conference or war was peculiar to the -Papara head chief; the military strength of the -Tevas was unconquerable, if it could be united; -but perhaps the most decisive part of every -head chief's influence was his family connection. -Nowhere in the world was marriage a matter of -more political and social consequence than in -Tahiti. Women occupied an important position -in society and political affairs. The chiefesses -held the reins of government with as much -firmness as the chiefs, and commanded the same -influence and respect. She was as independent -of her husband as of any other chief; she had her -seat or throne, in the Marae even to the -exclusion of her husband; and if she were ambitious -she might win or lose crowns for her children -as happened with Captain Wallis' friend Oberea, -the great-aunt of Ariitaimai Purea, and with her -niece, Tetuauni reiaiteatea, the mother of the -first King Pomare. At the time of Wallis' and -Cook's visits, Papara was the principal city in -Tahiti, and Papeete, the present capital city of the -French possessions in Oceanica, a mere village. -The Papara head chief was never the head chief -of the whole island, but his power and influence -were predominant throughout the whole island. -The kingship which Europeans insisted on -conferring on him, or on any other head chief who -happened for the time to rival him, was never -accepted by the natives until forced upon them -by foreign influence and arms. From this it will -be seen that before European influence made -itself felt, the Tahitians were divided into tribes -ruled by so many chiefs, with a head chief -whose influence extended over the entire island. -The form of native government was very simple -and had many very commendable features. Wars -between the tribes and between Tahiti and the -neighboring island, Moorea, were, however, of -frequent occurrence.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image12"> -<img alt="NATIVE VILLAGE" src="images/Image12.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 391.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">NATIVE VILLAGE BY THE SEA</p> -</div> -<p>All exact knowledge concerning dates in the -history of the island begins with June 24, 1767, -when Wallis warped his ship into the bay of -Matavai, the most northerly point of the island. -The appearance of the foreigners, the first time -the natives had ever seen a white man and such a -great ship, created consternation. Excitement -ran high on the landing of the crew. The natives -attacked them, but their rude implements of -warfare could not cope with firearms, and they -were defeated. Two days later, June 26th, the -battle was renewed and again terminated in the -defeat of the natives, promptly followed by -sudden friendship for their first European -visitors. The natives, extremely superstitious, -were at first suspicious, and it required some time -to establish free relations between them and the -commander and crew of the <em>Dolphin</em>. Strangely -enough, the first native to board the ship was a -woman. The incident is related by Wallis -himself:</p> -<blockquote> -On Saturday, the 11th, in the afternoon, the gunner -came on board with a tall woman, who seemed to be -about five and forty years of age, of a pleasing -countenance and majestic deportment. He told me that she -was but just come into that part of the country, and that -seeing great respect paid her by the rest of the natives, -he had made her some presents; in return for which -she had invited him to her home, which was about two -miles up the valley, and given him some large hogs; -after which she returned with him to the watering-place -and expressed a desire to go on board the ship, in -which wish he had thought it proper, on all accounts, -that she should be gratified. She seemed to be under -no restraint, either from diffidence or fear, when she -came into the ship, and she behaved all the while she -was on board with an easy freedom that always -distinguishes conscious superiority and habitual command. -I gave her a large blue mantle that reached from her -shoulders to her feet, which I drew over her, and tied on -with ribbons; I gave her also a looking-glass, beads of -several sorts, and many other things, which she accepted -with good grace and much pleasure. She took notice -that I had been ill, and pointed to the shore. I -understood that she meant I should go thither to perfect my -recovery, and I made signs that I would go thither the -next morning. When she intimated an inclination to -return, I ordered the gunner to go with her, who, having -set her on shore, attended her to her habitation, which -he described as being very large and well built. He -said that in this house she had many guards and -domestics, and that she had another at a little distance -which was enclosed in lattice work.</blockquote> -<p>This visit opened the island to the -Englishmen. Wallis repeatedly refers to his first visitor -as "my princess, or rather queen." When he -came on shore the next day he was met by the -princess, who ordered that he and the first -lieutenant and purser, who were also ill, should be -carried by the people to her home, where they -were treated in a most hospitable manner. Here -is a beautiful instance of natural hospitality, -charity and gratitude combined; a kindly deed -dictated by unselfish motives, an exhibition of -virtues so rarely met with in the common walks -of life.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Hospitality to the better sort and charity to the poor; -two virtues that are never exercised so well as when -they accompany each other.</p> -<p>ATTERBURY.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The princess had full control over the curious, -motley crowd, which gave way to the strangers -by a sign of her hand. The house proved to be -the Fare-hau, or Council-house, of Haapape, and -the princess, as Wallis called her, who did not -belong to Haapape, but to quite another part of -the island, was herself a guest whose presence -there was due to her relationship with the chief.</p> -<p>Wallis left the Island July 27th. His "queen" -and her attendants came on board and bade him -and his crew a most affectionate farewell. -Neither Wallis, nor Bougainville, who visited -Tahiti in April, 1768, eight months later, ever -learned what her true rank was, or from what -part of the island she came. According to -Ariitaimai, she was her great-great-grandaunt -Purea, or rather, the wife of her -great-great-granduncle.</p> -<p>Bougainville named the island New Cytherea, -and Commerson, the naturalist, charmed by its -beauty and astonished at its resources, called it -Utopia. The latter gave the following romantic -description of the island and its people in a letter -published in the <em>Mercure de France</em>:</p> -<blockquote> -Je puis vous dire que c'est le seul coin de la terre ou -habitent des hommes sans vices, sans préjugés, sans -besoins, sans dissensions. Nés sous le plus beau ciel, -nourris des fruits d'une terre féconde sans culture, régis -par des pères de famille plutôt que par des rois, ils ne -connaissent d'autre dieu que l'Amour. Tous les jours -lai sont consacrés, toute l'isle son temple, toutes les -femmes—me demandez-vous? Les rivales des -Geôrgiennes en beauté et les sœurs des grâces toutes -unes.</blockquote> -<p>Such was the simple, innocent, happy island -life when Tahiti was discovered by the white -man, whose pretended object was to bring to -the natives the benefits of modern civilization. -As to the immediate effects of European -civilization on the morals of the natives, Ariitaimai -has the following to say in reply to the alleged -laxity of Tahitian morals:</p> -<blockquote> -No one knows how much of the laxity of morals was -due to the French and English themselves, whose -appearance certainly caused a sudden and shocking -overthrow of such moral rules as had existed before in -the island society: and the "supposed" means that when -the island society as a whole is taken into account. -Marriage was real as far as it went, and the standard -rather higher than that of Paris; in some ways -extremely lax, and in others strict and stern to a -degree that would have astonished even the most -conventional English nobleman, had he understood it</blockquote> -<p>The third European to visit Tahiti was that -intrepid explorer, Captain Cook, who entered -Matavai Bay on the 13th of April, 1769, in Her -Majesty's bark, the <em>Endeavor</em>, on his first voyage -around the world. He met chief Tootahah, -under whose protection he settled on Point -Venus. He was accompanied by a staff of -scientists, among them Joseph Banks and Dr. -Solander, a Swedish naturalist. Captain Wallis' -"queen" was again on the shore to meet the -strangers. Captain Cook gives a detailed -account of her visit:</p> -<blockquote> -She first went to Mr. Banks' tent at the fort, where -she was not known, till the master, who knew her, -happening to go ashore, brought her on board with -two men and several women, who seemed to be all of -her family. I made them all some presents or other, -but to Obariea (for that was the woman's name) I gave -several things, in return for which, as soon as I went -on shore with her, she gave me a hog and several -bunches of plantains. These she caused to be carried -from her canoes up to the fort in a kind of procession, -she and I bringing up the rear. This woman is about -forty years of age, and, like most of the other women, -very masculine. She is head or chief of her own family -or tribe, but to all appearance hath no authority over -the rest of the inhabitants, whatever she might have -when the <em>Dolphin</em> was here.</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image13"> -<img alt="NATIVE HUT" src="images/Image13.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 378.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">NATIVE HUT CLOSE BY THE SEA</p> -</div> -<p>Cook ascertained at this time, that Obariea -was the wife of the most influential chief of the -island, Oamo, but did not live with him. She -had two children, a daughter eighteen years old, -and a boy of seven, the heir to the throne. He -says in his Journal:</p> -<blockquote> -The young boy above mentioned is son to Oamo and -Obariea, but Oamo and Obariea do not at this time live -together as man and wife, he not being able to endure -with her troublesome disposition. I mention this -because it shows that separation in the marriage state is -not unknown to these people.</blockquote> -<p>When Cook made his second visit to the island, -in 1774, he learned that Oamo and Obariea, or, -as they are called in the genealogy of the Tevas, -Amo and Purea, had been driven from Papara -into the mountains. Vehiatu, the victor, made -Amo resign, and the regency of that part of the -island was entrusted to Tootuhah, the youngest -brother of the deposed chief.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="pomare-the-royal-family-of-tahiti"> -<h1>POMARE, THE ROYAL FAMILY OF TAHITI</h1> -<p>The Pomare family are descendants of chiefs -called Tu of Faaraoa, one of the atoll islands -of the Paumotu Archipelago, some two hundred -and fifty miles northeast of Tahiti. The exact -date of the first Tu's arrival in Tahiti is unknown. -Even the generation can not be fixed. The -Pomares were always ashamed of their Paumotu -descent, which they regarded as a flaw in their -heraldry, and which was a reproach to them in -the eyes of the Tahitians, for all Tahitians -regarded the Paumotus as savage, and socially -inferior. The first Tu who came to visit the -distant land of Tahiti, came in by the Taunoa -opening, which is the eastern channel, into what -is now the harbor of Papeete. Landing at Taunoa -a stranger, he was invited to be the guest of -Manaihiti, who seems to have been a chief of -Pare. He was adopted by the chief as his -brother, and at the death of the chief, he -became heir and successor in the chief's line. -He married into the Arue family, which gave his -son a claim to the joint chiefdom of Pare Arue; -and at last his grandson, or some later -generation, obtained in marriage no less a personage -than Tetuaehuri, daughter of Taiarapu. One -of the members of this family, Teu (born 1720, -died 1802) made new and important advances -in the social and political circles of Tahiti by -marriage, and became the father of Pomare I. -(1743-1803), the first king of Tahiti. Teu seems -to have been a very clever and cautious man. -He never assumed to be a great chief or to wear -the belt of feathers. He was more jealous of his -son than of Amo or his son Teriirere. His son, -Tu, was born about 1743. Related by birth with -two of the most influential families, he -strengthened his native ties by marrying -Tetuanui-rea-i-te-rai, of the adjoining independent chiefdom -of Tefauai Ahurai, who was not only a niece of -Purea, but quite as ambitious and energetic as -Purea herself. The English, who could not -conceive that the Tahitians should be able to -exist without some pretense of royalty, gave Tu -the rank and title of king, notwithstanding that -he was only one, and at that not the most -influential of several Arii rahi. To the great -dissatisfaction of the other chiefs, Tu received the lion's -share of presents from Captain Cook. At this -action, the Ahurai and Attahura people were -enraged, and Cook was quite unable to -understand that they had reason to complain. To -them, Cook's partiality for Tu must have seemed -a deliberate insult. When Cook returned on his -third voyage, in 1777, several Tahitian tribes -were in a state of war with Moorea, in which Tu -took no active part. Cook then deliberately -intervened in the support of the plan he had -adopted of elevating Tu at the expense of the -other chiefs. In his estimation, Tu was king by -divine right, and any attack on his authority was -treason in the first place, and an attack on British -influence in the next. British influence and -British threats made a radical change in the -government of Tahiti, in opposition to the -expressed wish of the great majority of the people. -England wanted to control the political affairs -of the island for commercial gain, and to extend -her sovereignty in the South Seas, which only -confirms that</p> -<blockquote> -<p>All government—indeed, every human benefit and -enjoyment, every virtue and every prudent act—is -founded on compromise and barter.</p> -<p>BURKE.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image14"> -<img alt="PRINCE HINOI" src="images/Image14.jpg" style="width: 390.5px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">PRINCE HINOI Son of the last King of Tahiti, Pomare V.</p> -</div> -<p>After Cook's departure, nearly eleven years -elapsed before another European ship called at -Tahiti, and, during this time, Pomare paid dearly -for the distinctions forced upon him by the -foreigners. When Lieutenant Bligh arrived in the -<em>Bounty</em>, in 1788, Tu told him that after five -years from the time of Cook's last departure, -the people of the island Moorea (Eirrieo) joined -with those of Attahura and made an attack -on his district, and many of his subjects were -killed, while he had himself fled, with the -survivors, to the mountains. All the houses and -property had been destroyed or carried away by the -enemy. Bligh landed at Matavai in the <em>Bounty</em> -October 26, 1788. He came for a supply of -breadfruit, which was to be introduced and -domesticated in the various tropical colonies of Great -Britain, and indirectly to advance the interests -and power of Tu, who had nearly lost his -influence over the natives. His position was so -desperate that he begged the lieutenant to take him -and his wife, Tetua, to England. He had a son, -at this time six years old, who became the first -Christian king of Tahiti. Before leaving the -island, April 3, 1789, Bligh did what he could -to strengthen Tu's position, and supplied him -with firearms. For this act he gave the following -explanation:</p> -<blockquote> -He (Tu) had frequently expressed a wish that I -would leave some firearms and ammunition with him, -as he expected to be attacked after the ship sailed, and -perhaps chiefly on account of our partiality to him. I -therefore thought it but reasonable to accede to his -request. I was the more readily prevailed on, as he said -his intentions were to act only on the defensive. This, -indeed, seems most suited to his disposition, which is -neither active nor enterprising. When I proposed to -leave with him a pair of pistols, which they prefer to -muskets, they told me that his wife, Tetua, would fight -with one and Oedidee with the other. Tetua has learned -to load and fire a musket with great dexterity, and -Oedidee is an excellent marksman. It is not common -for women in this country to go to war, but Tetua is a -very resolute woman, of a large make, and has great -bodily strength.</blockquote> -<p>History shows that Tetua was not the only -fighting woman in Tahiti, as at different times, -in tribal wars, it was not uncommon for women -to take an active part, and in more than one -instance the leading part.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>On great occasions it is almost always women who -have given the strongest proofs of virtue and devotion; -the reason is, that with men, good and bad qualities -are in general the result of calculation, whilst in -women they are impulses, springing from the heart.</p> -<p>COUNT MONTHOLON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Lieutenant Bligh left the island April 4th. -As he was passing the Friendly, or Tonga group, -April 28th, the larger part of his officers and men -mutinied and set him and some eighteen others -adrift in the ship's launch. The mutineers then -put the ship about and returned to Tahiti, where -they arrived at Matavai Bay, June 6, 1789. There -they took in all the live-stock they could obtain, -and twenty-four Tahitians, and sailed again June -16th for Tubuai, but appeared once more, -September 22nd, and landed sixteen of the mutineers, -who were tired of their adventures. The rest -sailed suddenly the next night, and vanished -from the sight of men for twenty years. The -sixteen mutineers who remained scattered more -or less over the island, but made Pare their -headquarters and Tu their patron. Here they set -to work, November 12, 1789, to build a -thirty-foot schooner, with which to make their escape. -The effect of the example of these ruffians and -criminals on the morals of the simple, receptive -Tahitians can be readily imagined. These men, -who had enjoyed the confidence of their -commander and the advantages and pleasures of a -trip to foreign strange countries, proved -ungrateful, and "the earth produces nothing worse -than an ungrateful man" (Ansonius). The -schooner was launched August 5, 1790. The war -which immediately followed, and which -reestablished Tu in his power for the time, deserves to -be called the War of the Mutineers of the <em>Bounty</em>. -When Tu died, thirteen years later, the -missionaries in their Journal recorded many details -about his life and character, and among other -things, they said:</p> -<blockquote> -He was born in the district of Oparre, where his -corpse now is, and was by birth chief of that district, -and none other. The notice of the English navigators -laid the foundation for his future aggrandizement; -and the runaway seamen that from time to time quitted -their vessels to sojourn in the island (especially that -of His Majesty's ship <em>Bounty's</em> crew, which resided -here) were the instruments for gaining to Pomarre a -greater extent of dominion and power than any other -man had before in Otaheite.</blockquote> -<p>It is very evident that the first Pomare was -a man without firmness and that what influence -he exercised was due to the energies and ambition -of his wife and to foreign support. When -Lieutenant Bligh reached home and reported the -mutiny, the British government sent the frigate -<em>Pandora</em> in search of the <em>Bounty</em> and the deserted -crew. The <em>Pandora</em> never found the <em>Bounty</em>, -which long since had been burned by the -mutineers at Pitcairn Island; but she did find such of -the mutineers as had returned to Tahiti, and who -were actively engaged in establishing Tu as a -Tahitian despot, when the <em>Pandora</em>, in March, -1791, appeared in Matavai Bay. The mutineers, -it seems, unable to keep at sea in the rickety -schooner, landed at Papara, March 26th, and took -refuge in the mountains. Captain Edwards, of -the <em>Pandora</em>, immediately sent two boats, with -a number of men, to Papara. Through the -friendly office of the chiefs and natives, the -mutineers were finally captured, one by one, -until only six remained out, and these were at -last found near the seashore, where they were -captured after many fruitless attempts. The -<em>Pandora</em> sailed from Tahiti with her prisoners in -May, 1791, and in December following, Vancouver -arrived in the sloop of war <em>Discovery</em>, on a search -for a northwest passage to the Orient, stopping -for supplies at Tahiti, December 28th.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image15"> -<img alt="A TAHITIAN HOME" src="images/Image15.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 330.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">A TAHITIAN HOME</p> -</div> -<p>Vancouver, who had been with Cook in 1777, -inquired for his old friends. He learned that the -young king had taken the name of Otoo, and his -old friend that of Pomare, having given up his -name with his sovereign jurisdiction, though he -still seemed to retain his authority as regent. -This is the first record of the name Pomare, by -which the family has since been known. After -the birth of the young Tu, about 1782, the first -of his children who was allowed to live, the -father seems to have taken the name of Tuiah, -or Tarino, which he bore in 1788. He took the -name of Pomare (night cough) from his younger -son, Terii nava horoo, a young child in 1791, who -coughed at night. With the assistance of -English guns, Pomare waged active war on -neighboring chiefs, and the chief of Papara was the last -one to succumb. By successive vigorous strokes, -he finally gained control of the entire group of -islands, including Borabora.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="missionary-rule"> -<h1>MISSIONARY RULE</h1> -<blockquote> -<p>It is better that men should be governed by -priestcraft than violence.</p> -<p>LORD MACAULEY.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The early missionaries of Tahiti played an -important role in the island politics. They did -not limit their work to the conversion of the -heathen islanders, but took an active part in -political affairs, and many of their doings in that -direction were not in accord with the teachings of -the gospel. The first missionaries sent to Tahiti -from England reached the island in the <em>Duff</em>, -March, 1797. They received information of the -island politics from two Swedish sailors, Andrew -Lind, of the ship <em>Matilda</em>, which had been -wrecked in the South Sea in 1792, and Peter -Haggerstein, who deserted from the <em>Daedalus</em> -in February, 1793. Both of these men were -adventurers of the type that has infested the -South Seas for more than a century. They -became well-known characters in the history of -the island, sometimes assisting the -missionaries, and sometimes annoying them. In July, -1797, Peter accompanied one of the missionaries -as a guide and interpreter, on a circuit round the -island, to make a sort of census, as a -starting-point for the missionary work. They began with -Papenoo, July 11th, and as they walked, Peter -boasted of his exploits. His stories were so much -in conflict with facts that they rather misled -than aided the missionaries in search of island -affairs. Temarii, the chief of Papara, had -visited the missionaries at Matavai. The -missionaries gave the following account of him:</p> -<blockquote> -May 7, 1797, visited by the chief priest from Papara, -Temarre. He was dressed in a wrapper of Otaheitian -cloth, and over it an officer's coat doubled around -him. At his first approach he appeared timid, and -was invited in. He was just about seated when the -cuckoo clock struck and filled him with astonishment -and terror. Old Pyetea had brought the bird some -breadfruit, observing it must be starved if we never -fed it. At breakfast we invited Temarii to our repast, -but he first held out his hand with a bit of plantain -and looked very solemn, which, one of the natives said, -was an offering to Eatooa (Tahitian divinity) and we -must receive it. When we had taken it out of his hand -and laid it under the table, he sat down and made a -hearty breakfast. Brother Cover read the translated -address to all these respected guests, the natives -listening with attention, and particularly the priest, who -seemed to drink in every word, but appeared -displeased when urged to cast away their false gods, and -on hearing the names of Jehovah and Jesus he would -turn and whisper. Two days afterwards, Temarii came -again to the mission house and this time with the young -Otoo, Pomare H., and his first wife Tetuanui.</blockquote> -<p>Here again is the account of the visit by the -missionaries:</p> -<blockquote> -May 9th, Temarre accompanied the king and queen -and staid to dine with us. He is, we find, of the royal -race and son of the famed Oberea. He is the first chief -of the island after Pomarre, by whom he has been -subdued, and now lives in friendship with him and has -adopted his son. He is also high in esteem as a priest.</blockquote> -<p>In July of the same year the missionaries -visited Temarii at Papara on their way around -the island. They found the chief under the -influence of Kava, but were feasted the next day on -Temarii's feast pig. Not only was Temarii the -most powerful chief of the island, but Pomare -had become, by his son's accession, a chief of -the second order. He depended greatly on the -favor of his son, the young Tu, who was, in 1797, -supposed to be at least fifteen and perhaps -seventeen years of age, and who had been adopted -by Temarii, his cousin, who was about ten years -older than he. Adoption was rather stronger in -the South Seas than the tie of natural parentage. -Between his natural father, Pomare, and his -adopted father, Temarii, the young Tu preferred -the latter, and sooner or later every one knew -that Temarii would help Tu to emancipate -himself and drive Pomare from the island.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image16"> -<img alt="TAHITIAN BAMBOO HOUSE" src="images/Image16.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 334.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">TAHITIAN BAMBOO HOUSE</p> -</div> -<p>The <em>Duff</em> sailed for England August 14, 1797, -leaving the missionaries to the mercies of rival -factions, and they soon ascertained that Pomare -and Tu were on anything but friendly terms. -The missionaries had faith in Pomare, who chose -one of them by the name of Cover as a brother. -Temarii chose another by the name of Main. -These two missionaries went to Papara August -15th, at the suggestion of the influential native -priest, Manne Manne, to remonstrate against -a human sacrifice which was to be made at the -Marae Tooarai. On account of a murder -recently committed, the missionaries found the -chief and people greatly excited, and fled as -quickly as possible.</p> -<p>In the month of March the missionaries found -themselves in a critical condition when the ship -<em>Nautilus</em> appeared and two of her crew deserted. -The deserters went to Pare and were sheltered -there. The captain of the <em>Nautilus</em> at once set -to work to recover them. Four of the -missionaries proceeded to Pare to see Tu, Pomare and -Temarii and informed them that a refusal to -return the men would be regarded as exhibiting -an evil intention against the missionaries. They -found Tu and Temarii at Pare, but went to get -Pomare to join them, when they were suddenly -attacked and stripped by some thirty natives, who -took their clothes and treated them rather -roughly, but at last released them. They went to -Pomare's house and were kindly received. -Pomare returned with them to Tu, and insisted -on the punishment of the offenders and the -delivery of the deserters. Two were executed, and -the district of Pare took up arms to avenge them. -Tu joined his father and suppressed the riot, so -that the missionaries' clothes cost the natives -fifteen lives before order was restored. This -incident made the missionaries very unpopular and -they had to depend more than ever on Pomare -for protection.</p> -<p>On August 24th, two whaling vessels, the -<em>Cornwall</em> and <em>Sally</em>, of London, anchored in -Matavai Bay, and most of the principal chiefs -went on board. On the 30th, while the -missionaries were at dinner, Pomare came in great haste, -and told them that a man had been blown up -with gunpowder at the Council house in Pare, -and requested them to hasten to the place and -render assistance. When they arrived they found -that the injured man was Temarii. Here is the -account of the affair by the missionaries:</p> -<blockquote> -At our arrival we were led to the bed of Temaree -called also Orepiah, and beheld such a spectacle as we -had never before seen. Brother Broomhall began -immediately to apply what he had prepared with a -camel's-hair brush over most parts of the body. He -was apparently more passive under the operation than -we could conceive a man in his situation would be -capable of. The night drawing on, we took leave of him -by saying we would return next morning with a fresh -preparation. On the following morning we were -struck with much surprise at the appearance of the -patient He was literally daubed with something like a -thick white paste. Upon inquiry we found it to be the -scrapings of yams. Both the chief and his wife seemed -highly offended at Brother Broomhall's application the -preceding evening, and they would not permit him to -do anything more for him, as he had felt so much pain -from what he had applied. It was said that there was -a curse put into the medicine by our God.</blockquote> -<p>It must be remembered that the Tahitian -chiefs were also priests and not infrequently -acted as physicians. The dissatisfaction of -Temarii with the treatment of his case by the -missionaries had therefore to be considered as a -most unfortunate affair. Under these conditions -the missionaries were apprehensive of -increasing hostilities. The suspicion on part of the -superstitious natives that the missionaries had -been sent by Pomare to curse Temarii and cause -his death was not only a natural but a reasonable -one to the chief as well as his subjects. Pomare -was quite capable of such conduct and as far -as the natives knew, the missionaries were -Pomare's friends and supporters. The accident -which gave rise to this unfortunate occurrence -was due to the English gunpowder and it was -fortunate that the missionaries had nothing to -do with furnishing it. The explosion occurred -while Temarii was testing the quality of powder -which he obtained from the whalers <em>Cornwall</em> -and <em>Sally</em>.</p> -<blockquote> -A pistol was loaded and unthinkingly fired in the -midst of a number of people, over the whole quantity -(five pounds) of powder received. A spark of fire -dropped from the pistol upon the powder that lay on -the ground, and in a moment it blew up. The natives -did not feel themselves hurt at first, but when the -smoke was somewhat dispersed, observing their skin -fouled with powder, they began to rub their arms, and -found the skin peeling off under their fingers. Terrified -at this, they instantly ran to a river near at hand and -plunged themselves in.</blockquote> -<p>Temarii lingered in great suffering till -September 8th, but the missionaries did not dare to -visit him again for fear of violence on the part of -the indignant natives. The whole body of chiefs -was present and looked on in consternation while -Temarii died. The chief's remains were carried, -in the usual state, round the island to all his -districts and duly mourned; and in the regular -course prescribed by the island ceremonial, his -head was secretly hidden in the cave at Papara. -These demonstrations served to spread the news -of the calamity, for which the missionaries -received the exclusive blame. The political -complications which followed induced Pomare to -seek safety in flight to the Paumotu Islands, -leaving his wife to face the storm. The chiefess -was not idle after her husband's cowardly flight. -On the 29th of November she compromised with -Tu by ceding to him the authority he wanted, and -obtained from him a pledge assuring her safety. -This guaranty was the life of the high priest, old -Manne Manne, Tu's best friend. He was -murdered by Tetuanui's people on his way from -Matavai to Pare. The chiefess was in the -missionaries' house when this news arrived. She -had a cartridge-box around her waist and a -musket near at hand. She shook hands in a -friendly manner with the Swede, saying unto -him, "It is all over," meaning the war, and -immediately returned to her home. Pomare gained -nothing by these dissensions, for he had nothing -to gain, but had to sacrifice a part of his -possessions. The only winner in this tragic game was -the worst and most bloodthirsty of all, Tu, the -first Christian king. It must be remarked that -this king was the creation of the English, and -that he was used as a tool in the hands of the -missionaries. The Europeans came, and not only -upset all the moral ideas of the natives, but also -their whole political system. Before European -influence made itself felt in Tahiti, whenever a -chief became intolerably arrogant or dangerous, -the other chiefs united to overthrow him. All -the wars that are remembered in island traditions -were caused by the overweening pride, violence -or abnormal ambition of the great chiefs of -districts, and always ended in correcting existing -evils and in restoring the balance of power.</p> -<p>The English came just at the time when one -of these revolutions was in progress. The whole -island had united to punish the chiefess of Papara -for outrageous disregard of the island courtesies -which took the place of international law between -great chiefs. Purea had taken away the symbol -of sovereignty she had assumed for her son, and -had given it for safe-keeping to the chief of -Paea. The natives and chiefs had recognized -the chief of Pare, Arue, as entitled to wear the -Maro-ura, which Purea had denied him by -insulting his wife. Then the chief of Paea had tried -to imitate Purea and assert supreme authority, -only to be in his turn defeated and killed.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image17"> -<img alt="TOMB OF THE LAST KING OF TAHITI" src="images/Image17.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 377.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">TOMB OF THE LAST KING OF TAHITI, POMARE V.</p> -</div> -<p>Probably Tu would never have attempted a -similar course if the English had not insisted on -recognizing and treating him as king of the -whole island. He was one of the weakest of the -chiefs and enjoyed little if any reputation as a -military power. The other chiefs would have -easily kept him in his proper place if the English -had not constantly supported him and restored -him to power when he was vanquished. English -interference and the assistance of the -missionaries prolonged his ambition and caused the -constant revolutions which gave no chance for the -people to recover from the losses. Pomare was -a shrewd politician and with the assistance of -English guns finally gained control over the -whole island, crushing tribal rule, the safeguard -of the people under his despotic rule. All -visitors to the island became aware how -desperately the unfortunate people struggled against -the English policy of creating and supporting a -tyranny. The brutality and violence of Tu made -him equally hated by his own people of Pare -and by the Teva districts. Of these facts the -missionaries had full knowledge, as is evident -from their numerous correspondents, -nevertheless, they assisted him in carrying out his plans -to gain control over the entire island. They -supplied him freely with firearms and -ammunition. To preserve peace the missionaries did -some very curious things which suggest, as they -hinted, that they were glad to see the natives -fighting together, as is evident from one of their -daily records:</p> -<blockquote> -August 20, 1800.—We hear great preparations are -making, whether for war or peace is to be determined -in a short time, by some heathenish divination. If it -should prove for war, those who are eager for blood -seem determined to glut themselves, we rejoice that the -Lord of Hosts is the God of the heathen as well as the -Captain of the Armies of Israel; and while the -potsherds of the earth are dashing themselves to pieces one -against the other, they are fulfilling his determinate -counsels and foreknowledge.</blockquote> -<p>In the month of June Pomare instituted a -wholesale massacre to subject the entire island -to his rule, and by brutal force gained the object -of his ambition. In 1808 the political situation -was such that the missionaries found it necessary -for their safety to leave the island, and fled with -Pomare, November 12th, to the island of Moorea. -Pomare's cruelties and atrocities practiced upon -the natives during his tyrannical rule are well -described in a pen-picture drawn by Moerenhout:</p> -<blockquote> -After having massacred all whom they had surprised -(in Attahura), after having burned the houses, they -went on to Papara, where Tati, who is still living (1837), -was chief; but fortunately a man who had escaped from -the carnage of Punaauia came to warn the inhabitants -of Papara, so that they had time, not to unite in -defense, but to fly. Nevertheless, in that infernal night -and the day following a great number of persons -perished, especially old men, women and children; and -among the victims were the widow and children of -Aripaia (Ariifaataia) Amo's son, who, surprised the next -evening near Taiarahu, were pitilessly massacred with -all their attendants. Tati and some of his warriors -succeeded in reaching a fort called Papeharoro, at -Mairepehe; but they were too few to maintain themseives -there, and were forced to take refuge in the most -inaccessible parts of the high mountains, from whence -this chief succeeded in getting to a canoe which some -of his faithful followers provided for him, and kept in -readiness on the shore, at the peril of their lives. With -him were his brother and his young son, whom he -had himself carried in his arms during all this time of -fatigue and dangers.</blockquote> -<p>Opuhara became chief of Papara, and soon -afterward chief of the island, and remained the -chief personage of Tahiti during the next seven -years. Ellis, the historian of the missionaries, -described him as an intelligent and interesting -man.</p> -<p>At Moorea, Pomare's friends were -Paumotuans, Boraborans, Raiateans, missionaries, and -outcasts. Even these at last abandoned him. -The missionary journal shows that they had -long regarded their work as a failure, and after -identifying themselves with Pomare, in spite of -emphatic warnings, no other result was possible. -So the missionaries, leaving only Mr. Nott at -Moorea, sailed for Australia, not daring to -accept the proffered protection of the Tahiti -chiefs, because they could not separate -themselves, in the minds of the common people, from -Pomare and his interests. At Moorea, Pomare -urged the visiting chiefs to become Christians. -On the 18th of July, 1812, he announced his own -decision to the missionaries, and shortly -afterwards, on invitation from his old district of Pare -Arue, he returned to Tahiti, where he was -permitted to remain for two years, as an avowed -Christian, unmolested by his old enemies. He -took up his residence at Pare Arue as a Christian -chief, August 13, 1812, and kept up a -correspondence with the missionaries at Moorea.</p> -<p>The missionaries returned and were more -successful in Christianizing the people. On the -17th of February, 1813, Pomare wrote: "Matavai -has been delivered up to me. When I am -perfectly assured of the sincerity of this surrender -I will write to you another letter." The -missionaries made a tour of the island; many -conversions took place; in Moorea several idols were -publicly burned; there could be no doubt that -the Christians were pursuing an active course, -and that their success would bring back the -authority of Pomare over the whole island; but -neither Opuhara nor Tati interfered, and the -peace remained. Yet, after waiting two years -at Pare, vainly expecting the restoration of his -government, and endeavoring to recover his -authority in his hereditary districts, Pomare -returned to Moorea in the autumn of 1814, -accompanied by a large train of adherents and -dependents, all professing Christianity. At the -same time the Christian converts in Tahiti -became an organization known as the Bure Atua, -and every one could see that Pomare was making -use of them, and of his wife's resources, to begin -a new effort to recover by force his authority -in the island. War was inevitable, and Pomare, -with his Christian followers and missionaries, -could choose the time and place.</p> -<p>Pomare himself was not a soldier, nor had he -anything of a soldierly spirit. He left active -campaigning to his wives, who were less likely -to rouse the old enmity. His two wives, Terite -and Pomare vehine, came over to Pare Arue -May, 1815, with a large party of Christians, -and urged their plans for the overthrow of the -native chiefs. The chiefs had no other alternative -than to get rid of them, and fixed the night of -July 7th for the combined attack. Opuhara led -the forces, and it is said that he had given the -two queens timely warning to effect their escape. -For his delay some of the other chiefs charged -him with treachery. He replied that he wished -no harm to the two women or their people; that -his enemies were the Parionuu; and he marched -directly into Pare Arue, and subdued it once -more.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image18"> -<img alt="TAHITIAN WOMEN" src="images/Image18.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 375.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">TAHITIAN WOMEN IN ANCIENT NATIVE DRESS</p> -</div> -<p>While Pomare and the missionaries grew -stronger, and, as Ellis expressed it, "became -convinced that the time was not very remote when -their faith and principles must rise preeminent -above the power and influence" of the native -chiefs, the chiefs themselves exhibited vacillation. -Pomare returned, with all his following, -apparently armed and prepared for war. The native -converts were trained to the use of firearms and -the whole missionary interest became, for the -moment, actively militant. The native chiefs -remained passive. Under the appearance of -religious services, Pomare and the missionaries -kept their adherents under arms and prepared -them for any hostilities that might arise.</p> -<p>With his army numbering eight hundred, two -war canoes, one manned with musketeers, the -other with a swivel gun in the stern, commanded -by a white man, Pomare, on November 11th, -took possession at or near the village of Punaauia, -near Papara, with pickets far in advance. -Opuhara hastily summoned his men in the -famous battle of Fei-pi (the ripe plantains). The -field of battle was among the foothills near the -coast. Opuhara's warriors made a valiant attack -and pierced the front ranks of the enemy till it -reached the spot where one of the queens, Pomare -vehine, and the chief warriors stood. There one -of the native converts leveled his gun at Opuhara, -fired, the chief fell, and in a very short time -expired. The leader of the native forces was -killed by one of his own people who had cast -his lot with Pomare and the missionaries.</p> -<p>This war was brought on to force the natives -to Pomare's rule, and not for the purpose of -removing obstacles to the Christianization of the -islanders, as the chiefs were not opposed to the -peaceable dissemination of the teachings of the -gospel. It was a political and not a religious war, -and in this political endeavor the missionaries -and their converts took the leading part. The -missionaries evidently forgot the legitimate -object of their mission and unmercifully -slaughtered the natives who took up arms to defend -their rights. The Christians on Pomare's side -were fighting for supremacy, unmindful of the -teachings of the sacred Scriptures.</p> -<blockquote> -For he shall have judgment without mercy, that hath -showed no mercy; and mercy rejoiceth against -judgment St. James ii: 13.</blockquote> -<p>When Opuhara fell, his men lost courage, -retreated, and were not pursued. The death of -Opuhara was deeply regretted by Tati, his near -relative and successor in the government of the -district. In the ranks of his followers it was -firmly believed Opuhara, few as his forces were, -would have vanquished the enemy, had not the -native missionaries been taught to shoot as they -were taught to pray, and been supplied with guns -along with Bibles. With the death of Opuhara -the last hope of the natives was dissipated and -submission to Pomare's rule became a stern -reality. Neither the missionaries nor the natives -had any idea of allowing Pomare to recede into -his old ways. They made him refrain from -massacre or revenge after the battle of Fei-pi. Tati, -the chief of Papara, maintained peace from that -time by his wise rule in that part of the island. -He began by the usual island custom of binding -Pomare to him by the strongest possible ties. -The rapid extinction of chiefly families in Tahiti -had left the head chief of Moorea heir to most of -the distinguished names and properties in both -islands. Marama, the head chief of Moorea, had -only one heir, a daughter, a relative of Pomare. -This great heiress, almost the last remnant of -the three or four sacred families of the two -islands, was given by Pomare in marriage to -Tati's son, immediately after Tati himself was -restored to his rights as head chief of the Tevas. -In doing so he claimed for his own the first child -that Marama (the bride) should have and made -at the same time a compact that the children -from the marriage should marry into the Pomare -family. These conditions were made to render -himself more influential with the most refractory -of the conquered tribes. Pomare II. died -December 7, 1821, leaving a daughter, Aimata, and -a son, Pomare III., a child in arms. Aimata was -never regarded with favor by Pomare, her father, -who was frank in saying that she was not his -child; so the infant son was made heir to the -throne. Moerenhout made the statement that -Pomare, on his deathbed, expressed the wish that -Tati should take the reins of the government in -his hands, but that the missionaries and other -chiefs were afraid to trust Tati, and preferred to -take the charge of the infant king on themselves. -The missionaries in due time went through the -formal ceremony of crowning the infant, April -22, 1824, at Papara, and then took him to their -school, the South Sea Academy, which was -established in March, 1824, in the island of Moorea at -Papetoai. There he was taught to read and -write, and educated in English, which became his -language, until he was seven years old, when he -fell ill, and was taken over to his mother at Pare, -where he died January 11, 1827. During the -reign of the infant king, Mata, a friend of the -family, managed the affairs of state and became -the guardian of Aimata, as the Queen, Pomare -IV., was always called by the natives. Aimata -was married at the age of nine years. She led an -unhappy life, domestic, political, private and -public, until at last the missionaries, English and -French, fought so violently for control of her and -the island that she was actually driven away.</p> -<p>Among other laws which were supposed to -have been passed through the influence of the -English missionaries, to prevent strangers from -obtaining influence in the island, was one dated -March 1, 1833, forbidding strangers, under any -pretext, from marrying in Tahiti or Moorea. -Ariitaimai, of noble birth, the historian of Tahiti, -was not inclined to marry a native chief, a -decision which met the approval of Marama, her -mother. She finally consented to become the wife -of Mr. Salmon, an Englishman, who was held in -high esteem and consideration in the island; and -Aimata suspended the law in order to enable her -friend to be married to the man of her choice. -The missionaries virtually ruled the island for -forty years.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="wars-between-protestant-and-catholic-missionaries"> -<h1>WARS BETWEEN PROTESTANT AND CATHOLIC MISSIONARIES</h1> -<p>In 1836 two French missionary priests landed -at Tahiti to convert, not pagans, but Protestants -to the Roman Catholic faith. The Protestant -missionaries, who held the reins of the -government, indignant at this interference, invoked the -aid of the British consul, Pritchard, who caused -the Queen to order their arrest and expulsion. -The order was executed December 12, 1836. -The two priests made a protest to their -government, and King Louis Philippe sent a frigate to -Papeete with the usual ultimatum, to which the -Queen naturally acceded. Then began a struggle -on the part of Consul Pritchard and the English -missionaries to recover their ground, which led -to a letter from Queen Pomare to Queen Victoria, -suggesting a British protectorate, whereupon the -French government sent another warship to -Tahiti, in 1839, and made Aimata repeat her -submission. As the British government at that -time did not take much interest in missionaries, -and Sir Robert Peel had a very precise knowledge -of the value of unclaimed islands all over the -world, Queen Victoria did not accept the -proposition made by the Tahitian Queen, and the -missionaries were again thrown on their own -resources.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image19"> -<img alt="TAHITI GIRLS" src="images/Image19.jpg" style="width: 395.5px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">TAHITI GIRLS IN NATIVE DRESS</p> -</div> -<p>The chiefs ignored the missionaries, and in -September, 1841, decided that, between such -powers as England and France, they could not -hope to maintain independence or even a good -understanding, and since England refused the -proffered protectorate, they would turn to -France. So they drew up the necessary papers -for the Queen to approve, but a British war -vessel arrived in that critical moment, and this -reenforcement of British interests induced the -vacillating Queen to refuse to sign them. The next -August another French naval force arrived, and -the chiefs again met in council, with the admiral's -aid and advice. The chiefs sent the following -letter to the French admiral, Du Petit—Tuhouars:</p> -<blockquote> -Inasmuch as we can not continue to govern ourselves -so as to live on good terms with foreign governments, -and we are in danger of losing our island, our kingdom, -and our liberty, we, the Queen and the high chiefs of -Tahiti, write to ask the King of the French to take us -under his protection.</blockquote> -<p>In response to this formal request the French -admiral, on September 30, 1842, hoisted the flag -of the protectorate. This did not end the -political and religious troubles of the little island. -Consul Pritchard, who had been absent from his -post for some time, returned from England -February 23, 1843, and declared violent war against -the French. As usual, Queen Pomare yielded to -his wishes, and refused to obey those of the -French admiral. The admiral lost his patience -and temper, landed troops and took possession -of the island, declared the Queen deposed, and, -when disturbances arose, which he believed to be -fomented and fostered by Pritchard, he arrested -him and had him expelled from the island. This -act excited much attention, both in the English -and French press, which resulted in an order -from the King of France to the admiral to restore -the protectorate.</p> -<p>It will be seen that the last wars of Tahiti -were caused by a religious intolerance on the part -of the English missionaries, who objected to the -presence of two Roman Catholic priests in the -island. European governments were appealed -to and had to interfere in establishing in the -island free religious thought. It was a fight -between two religious denominations which kept -the natives in a state of warfare, a most serious -reflection on Christian charity,</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Alas for the rarity</p> -<p>Of Christian charity</p> -<p>Under the sun.</p> -<p>HOOD.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The constant unrest of the islanders caused -by outside interference provoked frequent -rebellions, for "general rebellions and revolts of an -whole people never were encouraged, now or at -any time; they are always provoked."</p> -<p>The two priests, bent upon a humane mission, -who, by their presence in Tahiti, without any -fault of their own, incurred the enmity of the -Protestant missionaries, were the direct cause of -French intervention which resulted in the -protectorate and later annexation of the island. -The priests remained, new ones came, and -today nearly one-half of the population of the island -are members of the Roman Catholic church.</p> -<p>The teachings and example of the English -missionaries and their conduct toward the Catholic -priests prove only too plainly:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Christian graces and virtues they can not be, unless -fed, invigorated and animated by universal charity.</p> -<p>ATTERBURY.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image20"> -<img alt="NATIVE GIRLS" src="images/Image20.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 394.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">A GROUP OF NATIVE GIRLS</p> -</div> -</div> -<div class="section" id="the-last-war"> -<h1>THE LAST WAR</h1> -<blockquote> -<p>Our country sinks beneath the yoke;</p> -<p>It weeps, it bleeds, and each new day a gash</p> -<p>Is added to her wounds.</p> -<p>SHAKESPEARE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The disturbances which preceded and followed -the establishment of the French protectorate -induced the Queen to seek safety on a British ship, -and the whole Pomare following took up arms -and established themselves in the stronghold of -native power and influence near Papeete. Another -civil war broke out which waged between the -natives and Europeans from 1844 to 1845. Tired -of foreign dictation and oppression, the natives -fought with desperation. Forts, which remain -today in a good state of preservation, were erected -by natives and the French. Most of the ruins -of these forts are scattered along the ninety-mile -drive between Papeete and Papara. From time -to time, determined attacks were made with -varying fortunes of war. The natives were superior -in number but could not stand up against the -well-directed firearms of the professional soldiers. -A last and crushing attack was ordered by the -French admiral, which meant certain defeat for -the natives.</p> -<p>It was at this critical time that a woman came -to the rescue of her people and prevented a -wholesale slaughter of the heroic defenders of -the island. This woman was Ariitaimai, the -authoress of the book we have been following so -closely in sketching the history of the island. She -was the daughter of the famous Marama, of -Moorea, the wife of Mr. Salmon, and the mother -of Tati Salmon, the present chief of Papara. She -recognized the hopelessness of the cause of her -people and determined to prevent further useless -bloodshed and establish peace. It required good -judgment and a great deal of courage to -undertake the task which she finally accomplished with -such a brilliant success. She was one of those -who believed that</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Almost all difficulties may be got the better of by -prudent thought, revolving and pondering much in the -mind.</p> -<p>MARCELLINUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>She was intensely patriotic and had no fear -of the results of her daring mission. She was -very popular with the natives and well known to -the French authorities, which aided her very -much in formulating and carrying out her plans. -She had no time to lose, as the decisive attack -on her countrymen had been ordered and was to -take place the next day. She called on Bruaat, -the governor of the island, with the determined -intention to end the war. He granted her -twenty-four hours to accomplish her task. She then -called a meeting of the head chiefs and urged -them to surrender on the conditions stipulated by -the French, in view of the hopelessness of the -island's cause. At that time this woman was -the most conspicuous figure in the politics of the -island, loved and respected by the chiefs and the -people throughout Tahiti and Moorea. The -head chiefs received her proposition with favor. -Notable speeches complimentary to her were -made on this occasion. One chief said:</p> -<blockquote> -Ariitaimai, you have flown amongst us, as it were, -like the two birds, Ruataa and Toena. Your object was -to join together Urarii and Mauu, and you have brought -them into this valley. You have brought the cooling -medicines of <em>vainu</em> and <em>mahainuieumu</em> into the hearts -of the chiefs that are collected here. Our hearts yearn -for you, and we can not in words thank you; but the -land, one and all, will prove to you in the future that -your visit will always remain in their memory. You -have come personally. I have heard you speak the -words out of your own mouth. You have brought us -the best of all goods, which is peace. You have done -this when you thought we were in great trouble, and -ran the risk of losing our lives and property; you have -come forward as a peacemaker for us all.</blockquote> -<p>What beautiful thoughts in simple, homely -language! What a splendid specimen of natural -oratory!</p> -<blockquote> -<p>In oratory, affectation must be avoided; it being -better for a man by a native and clear eloquence to -express himself than by those words which may smell -either of the lamp or ink-horn.</p> -<p>LORD HERBERT OF CHERBURY.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The chiefs unanimously accepted the terms -of peace, and after the adjournment of the -council, Ariitaimai hastened to Papeete with the -message of the chiefs, which was accepted, and -once more the protectorate flag was raised -and was recognized and respected by the chiefs -and the people. During all these great final -trials of the island, the Queen remained in the -island of Moorea and even after peace was -restored and she was formally requested to -return, she refused to do so. The French -authorities offered the crown repeatedly to Ariitaimai, -but as often, she refused the great honor. The -exiled Queen was her intimate and dear friend -and</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Ennuis has well remarked that "a real friend is -known in adversity."</p> -<p>CICERO.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>She was content with having accomplished a -patriotic deed and with the respect, love and -gratitude of her people.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>So true it is, that honor, prudently declined, often -comes back with increased lustre.</p> -<p>LIVIUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>She could say:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Give me a staff of honour for mine age;</p> -<p>But not a sceptre to control the world.</p> -<p>SHAKESPEARE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>and</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Tis less to conquer than to make wars cease,</p> -<p>And, without fighting, awe the world to peace.</p> -<p>HALIFAX.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Ariitaimai made several visits to the unhappy -Queen, urging her to return and resume her -reign of the island, and had the satisfaction, -finally, to bring her back from Raiatea on her -third visit.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>True friends visit us in prosperity only when invited, -but in adversity they come without invitation.</p> -<p>THEOPHRASTUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The Queen, on her return, was received with -regal honors by the French authorities and by -the people.</p> -<p>Pomare V. was the last of the kings of Tahiti. -He was the oldest son of Queen Pomare IV. and -known as Ariiane Pomare. He was married to -Marau Taawa Salmon, Tati Salmon's sister, and -had two daughters: Teriimii-o-Tahiti, and -Arii mainhinihi. Under European influences and -customs he became a degenerate Tahitian, -profligate and dissipated, and it is said that he was -largely responsible for the annexation of the -island to France as a colony in 1880, as he -received a substantial remuneration for his -influence in that direction and a pension of sixty -thousand francs a year. He died in 1891. Since -Tahiti has become a French possession the island -has enjoyed uninterrupted peace. The French -government has been exceedingly liberal with the -natives, having interfered as little as possible -with their habits and customs.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>That is the best government which desires to make -the people happy, and knows how to make them happy.</p> -<p>MACAULEY.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The island is governed under the French laws, -but local laws and tribal rule remain and -administer the local affairs. In completing the eventful -history of this little island it becomes apparent:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>What is public history but a register of the successes -and disappointments, the vices, the follies and quarrels -of those engaged in the contention for power.</p> -<p>PALEY.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The government has established and enforced -religious liberty, observing the precept: "The -protection of religion is indispensable to all -government" (Bishop Warburton). Taxation is -limited to road tax only. The annexation was -looked upon with great disfavor by the natives, -but was finally accepted with good grace, and -peace and happiness have reigned since.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="the-natives"> -<h1>THE NATIVES</h1> -<p>The Polynesians inhabiting the islands of the -great Pacific Ocean constitute a distinct race of -people, supposed at one time by certain writers -to be of American origin, now almost -universally admitted to have a close affinity with the -Malays of the peninsula and Indian Archipelago, -and hence classified by Dr. Latham under his -subdivision <em>Oceanica Mongolidæ</em>. In physical -structure and appearance the Polynesians in -general more nearly resemble the Malays than they -do any other race, although differing from them -in some respects, as, indeed, the natives of several -of the groups also do from each other. Centuries -and environment have left their impress on the -inhabitants of the different islands, as</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Everything that is created is changed by the laws -of man; the earth does not know itself in the revolution -of years; even the races of man assume various forms -in the course of years.</p> -<p>MANILIUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image21"> -<img alt="NATIVE GIRL" src="images/Image21.jpg" style="width: 387.5px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">NATIVE GIRL IN MODERN DRESS</p> -</div> -<p>In stature the Tahitian compares well with any -other race. The face is expressive of more than -ordinary intelligence. The color of the skin -varies from almost black to a light yellow. The -aquiline nose is commonly seen among them, and -there are many varieties of hair and complexion. -In complexion they resemble more nearly the -Japanese than the Chinese. The beard is thin, -the prevailing hair jet black, straight, wavy or -curly, profuse and long; eyes large and black; no -drooping or obliquity of eyelids. The face is -generally roundish; lower jaw well developed; -no unusual malar prominences; forehead slightly -receding; mouth large, lips thick and as a rule -slightly everted; wide nostrils; ears large; chin -prominent. The general resemblance of stature -and physiognomy, however, is more with the -Malays than any other race, and from which they -are undoubtedly the descendants, changed by -climatic influences, food, habits and methods of -living. In physical appearance the Tahitians and -Samoans are the handsomest and tallest of all -the natives of the Pacific Islands, with the -exception, perhaps, of the Maoris, or New -Zealanders.</p> -<p>The superstition of the taboo, the use of kava -as an intoxicating drink, cannibalism, infanticide, -offering of human sacrifices, tattooing, and -circumcision, which were formerly prevalent in -Tahiti, have disappeared under the influence of -Christianity.</p> -<p>Much has been said about the beauty of some -of the women of the South Sea Islands, but I -am sure I do them no injustice if I say that these -descriptions are overdrawn by sentimental writers -and do not correspond, when put to the test of -comparison, with the reality. When young, there -is something fascinating about the women, -imparted by the luxurious jet-black hair, the large -black eyes as they gaze at the strangers</p> -<blockquote> -<p>With a smile that is childlike and bland.</p> -<p>FRANCIS BRET HARTE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Beauty and youth among the Tahitian women -are of short duration, and in most of them -advanced age brings an undesirable degree of -corpulence.</p> -<p>Cook visited these people when they were in -their original physical and moral state. He -praises their openness and generosity. "Neither -does care ever seem to wrinkle their brow. On the -contrary, even the approach of death does not -appear to alter their usual vivacity. I have seen -them, when brought to the brink of the grave by -disease, and when preparing to go to battle; but in -neither case, never observed their countenance -overclouded with melancholy, or serious -reflection. Such a disposition leads them to direct -all their aims only to what can give them pleasure -and ease."</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The whole countenance is a certain silent language -of the mind.</p> -<p>CICERO.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>These mental traits have been preserved up to -the present time. Melancholy and suicide are -almost unknown in Tahiti. The people are -happy, contented and free from care and anxiety -and</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Enjoy the pleasures of the passing hour, and bid -adieu for a time to grave pursuits.</p> -<p>HORATIUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>They seem to know that</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Care and the desire for more</p> -<p>Attend the still increasing store.</p> -<p>HORATIUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Desire for great wealth does not exist among -the natives. Nature has supplied them with -nearly all they need, hence little remains for -them to do to meet their modest desires.</p> -<p>Religion has not done away entirely with -superstition, and has improved their morals little, if -any. Old European residents of Papeete agree -that the morality of the natives has not improved -since they have been under the influence of -civilization, forced on them by the European -invaders. The greatest fault of the people is -their incurable laziness, a vice for which they -are not entirely responsible, as Nature has -provided so bountifully for their needs. Robbery, -stealing and murder are almost unknown; petty -thefts, on the contrary, are quite common. The -people, young and old, are affable, extremely -courteous and hospitable to a fault; the family -ties strong, and extending to the remotest -relatives.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Man is a social animal, and born to live together so -as to regard the world as one house.</p> -<p>SENECA.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Nowhere in the world are the people more -sociable than in Tahiti. This sociability was -perhaps more pronounced before the island was -discovered than it is now, but it remains to this -day as one of the prominent characteristics of -the Polynesian race. Respect and love for -parents, strong attachments to relatives and friends, -are striking virtues of the Tahitians. They love -social intercourse and have the highest regard -for friendship. Poverty and misfortunes do not -intercept friendships, on the contrary they -cement them more firmly.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The firmest friendships have been formed in mutual -adversity; as iron is most strongly united by the -fiercest flames.</p> -<p>COLTON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Before European influence had made itself felt -in the island, each tribe constituted a large -family, and property lines were not sharply defined. -As long as there was anything to eat, no one -was left hungry. The Tahitians are extremely -fond of mingling with their relatives, friends, -members of the same and other tribes. They -appreciate to the fullest extent that "we have -been born to unite with fellow-men, and to join -in community with the human race" (Cicero). -They treat old age with reverence and respect, -and take the very best care of the sick and poor.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Unity of feelings and affections is the strongest -relationship.</p> -<p>PUBLIUS SYRUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image22"> -<img alt="TAHITIAN LADIES" src="images/Image22.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 382.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">TAHITIAN LADIES IN ZULU DRESS</p> -</div> -<p>Under the teachings of the missionaries, -Protestant and Catholic, paganism has -disappeared from the island. All are church-members -and attend service regularly. The -denominations represented are the Episcopalians, -Catholics and Latter-day Saints in above numerical -order. Most of the priests and preachers are -natives. Christianity, has, however, failed to -suppress immorality and do away entirely with -the inborn superstition of the natives. The -former evil is firmly rooted, the latter difficult of -complete eradication.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Nothing has more power over the multitude than -superstition: in other respects powerless, ferocious, -fickle, when it is once captivated by superstitious -notions, it obeys its priests better than its leaders.</p> -<p>QUINTUS CURTIUS RUFUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Wicked habits are productive of vice, and vice -follows long-standing habits. The Tahitians are -by nature kind, affectionate, and their opinions -are easily moulded for good or bad, but many of -their customs and habits cling to them in spite of -civilization and Christianization, for "how many -unjust and wicked things are done from mere -habit!" (Terentius); and "so much power has -custom over tender minds" (Virgilius).</p> -<p>The children of Tahiti are given excellent -opportunities for obtaining a good elementary -education. In all of the larger villages there is -a government school, usually two churches. -Catholic and Protestant, and their respective -parochial schools. The natives love their -language and are averse to the French, hence, as a -rule, the parochial are better patronized than the -government schools. The literature in the -Tahitian language is limited to translations of -the Bible, catechisms, religious song books and a -few school books. Children of the better classes -who seek a higher education, go abroad, in -preference to the United States. Few show any -ambition to enter any of the professions with the -exception of the clerical. The mass of the people -are content in leading an easy, dreamy life, -showing no disposition either to acquire wealth -or fame. Agriculture, manufacture and -commerce have no attraction for them. They are -children from the cradle to the grave, have the -desires of children, and are pleased with what -pleases children. Their tastes are simple, their -desires few, and instead of in care and worry, -they live through their span of life in peace of -mind and contentment.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>But if men would live according to reason's rules, -they would find the greatest riches to live content with -little, for there is never want where the mind is -satisfied.</p> -<p>LUCRETIUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>In contrast to the Westerner, the favored -Tahitian can say:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>I have everything, yet have nothing; and although I -possess nothing, still of nothing am I in want.</p> -<p>TERRENCE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The natives are temperate in drinking, and -frugal in eating. Fish and fruit are their -principal articles of diet. Their habits in this -direction have not undergone much change since -Captain Cook wrote:</p> -<blockquote> -Their common diet is made up of at least -nine-tenths vegetable food; and, I believe, more particularly, -the <em>mahee</em>, or fermented breadfruit, which enters -almost every meal, has a remarkable effect upon them, -preventing a costive habit, and producing a very -sensible coolness about them, which could not be -perceived in us who fed on animal food. And it is, -perhaps, owing to this temperate course of life that -they have so few diseases among them.</blockquote> -<p>Smoking is indulged in only to a moderate -extent, cigarettes and pipe being the favorite -methods of consuming the weed.</p> -<p>Art has never had a place in the minds of -the Tahitians. All attempts in this direction in -design, carving and sculpture, are rude. Like -all primitive peoples, they are fond of music. -Their voices are sweet, but the airs of their -music are monotonous. The primitive drum, and -a little crude instrument made of bamboo, -something like a flute, placed in one of the nostrils -when played, are the instruments in most -common use. The national dance, formerly the -principal amusement of the people, is discouraged -by the government, but is allowed once a year -as a special favor to the natives.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="foreigners-in-tahiti"> -<h1>FOREIGNERS IN TAHITI</h1> -<p>Most of the foreigners who remain -permanently in Tahiti become attached to the island -by marriage, the strongest possible incentive to -make it their permanent home. Many of these -men are adventurers. Some of them have honest -intentions to make this beautiful island their -permanent home. Far away from their place of -birth and relatives, charmed by the beauties of -the island, they conclude:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>I will take some savage woman; she shall rear my -dusky race.</p> -<p>TENNYSON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>In many instances such unions have resulted -very happily. On the voyage from San -Francisco to Tahiti, I met Mr. George R. Richardson, -a native of Springfield, Mass., who had lived for -the last thirty years, with his native wife on the -little atoll island, Kaukuaia of the Tuamotu group, -one hundred and sixty-eight miles from Tahiti. -He was suffering from carcinoma of the -esophagus, and was returning from San -Francisco, whither he had gone for medical advice. -His parents were still living, but he had no -desire to visit the place of his birth, so fully had -he become acclimated to the climatic and native -conditions of the Society Islands. He was then -fifty-five years of age. He left the United States -March 4, 1874, on a sailing vessel, and six months -later landed at Tahxa. In six months he had -obtained a fair knowledge of the native language, -and married in Kaukuaia a woman who could not -speak a word of English. This union resulted in -sixteen children, three of whom died, six girls -and seven boys living at the present time, and of -these, three girls and two boys are married. -Through his wife he inherited from her mother -five acres of land with three thousand -cocoanut-palms. To this land he obtained a legal -ownership eight years ago by virtue of a law of legal -registration passed by the government. The -island on which he lives contains only one -hundred and fifty inhabitants and the only income is -obtained from copra and mother-of-pearl.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image23"> -<img alt="NATIVE MUSICIANS" src="images/Image23.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 426.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">NATIVE MUSICIANS AND NATIVE DANCE</p> -</div> -<p>The inhabitants of this island are Catholics and -Mormons. A Catholic priest comes once a month -to minister to the spiritual needs of the -adherents to the faith of his church. The services of -both denominations are conducted in the native -language. He and a Frenchman are the only -white inhabitants of the island.</p> -<p>On February 16, 1878, a great storm -overflooded the island and our American, who spent -a whole night in the crown of a cocoanut tree, -lost everything. Only five thousand cocoanut -trees were left on the whole island. A -man-of-war came from Tahiti three days later and -ministered to the urgent needs of the survivors.</p> -<p>The inhabitants of this little island suffer -frequently from malaria and grippe. The -latter disease returns regularly almost every -year. Of the remaining diseases, diarrhea -and dysentery are the most common. -Tuberculosis is prevalent and claims many victims. -This island has now a population of one -hundred and fifty, and during his residence he -has never seen a physician, although the -inhabitants were frequently in need of medical -services. He was obliged to render his wife -assistance at the birth of all of his children, and -strangely, each time without any mishap, either -to mother or child. What happened on that -island must have happened on the many other -distant islands under similar circumstances. Here, -like elsewhere, in the South Sea Islands, are -medicine-men who attend to tooth-pulling, and, -when any cutting is to be done, a scalpel is made -of a piece of glass. In case of sickness they make -use of roots and herbs of their own gathering.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="business-in-tahiti"> -<h1>BUSINESS IN TAHITI</h1> -<p>The Tahitian is not a business man. What little -business is transacted in the island is done by -foreigners. The larger stores in Papeete are -owned and managed by French, Germans and -Americans. The smaller stores in the city, and -nearly all small shops in the villages, are in the -hands of Chinamen.</p> -<p>The fertile soil of Tahiti is not made use of to -any considerable extent. The sugar industry has -been tried but has been entirely abandoned, owing -to high wages for labor and exorbitant freight -rates. The principal articles of export are copra, -cocoanuts, vanilla-beans and mother-of-pearl -shells. Copra (dried meat of cocoanut), brings -three cents a kilo and cocoanuts are sold at a -cent apiece. The raising of vanilla-beans was a -paying industry five years ago, when they -commanded a price of seventeen dollars a pound, and -were then eagerly sought for in the market, as -they were considered superior in flavor to those -of any other country. The Chinamen have ruined -this source of income as well as the reputation of -the product. These shrewd business men control -the local market completely and go from place -to place long before harvest-time, buy the whole -crop for the year for cash, and have the beans -picked before they are ripe and mature them -artificially. The result of such dishonest -transactions has been that, owing to the poor quality -of the beans thus treated, the price of the article -has been reduced to three or four dollars per -pound.</p> -<p>The vanilla-bean grows best in the shady -forests, and requires but little attention except -artificial fertilization of the flowers and picking -of the beans. In the West Indies the numerous -insects fertilize the monogamous flowers; in this -island, this has to be done largely by artificial -fecundation. Women and children do this work. -With a sharp little stick, the pollen is taken from -the anthers and rubbed over the stigma of the -pistil. A child who is active can fertilize fifteen -hundred flowers a day. It is a great pity that -this industry has been cheapened by the -avaricious Chinamen, as it is an industry that requires -very little labor and should be remunerative, as -the soil and climate are peculiarly well adapted -for the cultivation of this valuable aromatic.</p> -<p>Most of the fruit which grows in Tahiti is too -perishable for transportation and is consequently -very cheap. The largest and most luscious -pineapples can be bought for three cents apiece, -oranges one-fourth of a cent. Alligator pears, -the finest fruit grown anywhere, are sold at the -market for two and three cents apiece. At the -time of my visit, eggs were sold at forty cents a -dozen. Meat, with the exception of pork, is -imported from New Zealand and the United States. -Most of the native families raise hogs, and this -animal is found also in a wild state in the jungles -of the forests.</p> -<p>The wages, for this island, are rather high. An -ordinary laborer is paid seventy-five cents a -day, and the women who are willing to work can -earn fifty cents a day. The average Tahitian -works only long enough to procure the -necessities of life, and, as these are few, it is difficult -to find men and women for ordinary labor and -housework.</p> -<p>The fact that there is no bank in the whole -island shows that the amount of money which -circulates among the people is very small. Some -enterprising American attempted to establish a -telephone line encircling the island, but lack of -patronage soon paralyzed the undertaking. The -island is a place for a dreamy, easy existence, and -not for business.</p> -<p>The communication with the outside world is -carried on by two regular steamer lines, one -from San Francisco, the other from Auckland, -but both of these lines are supported by liberal -government subsidies to make them remunerative, -as the passenger traffic and the exports and -imports of the island would not suffice to make them -independent of government aid.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="old-tahiti"> -<h1>OLD TAHITI</h1> -<blockquote> -<p>What will not length of time be able to change?</p> -<p>CLAUDIANUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Tahiti is exceedingly interesting to-day, but -how much more so must it have been to Captain -Wallis and his crew, who first set their eyes on -this gem of the Pacific! When the <em>Dolphin</em> -came in sight of this beautiful island that never -before had been seen by a white man, we can -readily imagine officers and crew straining their -eyes to see first its rugged outlines, and later the -details of the wonderful landscapes. Under the -blue sky and lighted up by the vigorous rays of -the tropic sun, they could see the mountain-peaks -clothed in the verdure of a tropic forest, the -little island set like a gem in the ocean, and, as -they beheld these mountains and turned their -eyes upward they could also see</p> -<blockquote> -<p>They were canopied by the blue sky, so cloudless, -clear, and purely beautiful that God alone was to be -seen in heaven.</p> -<p>BYRON.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image24"> -<img alt="TAHITIAN GIRL" src="images/Image24.jpg" style="width: 349.5px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">TAHITIAN GIRL IN NATIVE FESTIVE DRESS</p> -</div> -<p>As they approached nearer and saw the natural -wealth of the island and its happy inhabitants -basking in the sunshine, eating what Nature had -provided for them without care or toil on their -part, they must have come to the unavoidable -conclusion that they at last had found a land -where</p> -<blockquote> -<p>There was a never-ending spring, and flowers unsown -were kissed by the warm western breeze. Then the -unploughed land gave forth corn, and the ground, year -after year, was white with full ears of grain. Rivers -of milk, rivers of nectar ran, and the yellow honey -continued to pour from the ever-green oak.</p> -<p>OVIDIUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>On landing, having overcome the animosity of -the natives and ascertained the boundless -resources of the island, they could not escape -the conviction that they in their wanderings -over the limitless sea, had at last found "a heaven -on earth" (Milton).</p> -<p>What wonderful stories those men must have -brought to Europe on their return after the long -and hazardous voyage, when they related what -they had seen in Tahiti, then in its primitive -native state! Captain Cook made a longer stay -in the island on his first visit and had therefore -a better opportunity to study the island, its -resources and its interesting inhabitants. It is on -his descriptions we will rely in giving an account -of some of the traits, customs and habits of the -people as they existed at that time.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="religion-of-the-natives"> -<h1>RELIGION OF THE NATIVES</h1> -<blockquote> -<p>Every one is, in a small degree, the image of God.</p> -<p>MANLIUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The most primitive of all races have some -conception of a divinity and a life hereafter, for</p> -<blockquote> -<p>A god has his abode within our breast; when he -rouses us, the glow of inspiration warms us; this -holy rapture springs from the seeds of the divine mind -sown in man.</p> -<p>OVIDIUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Let us listen to Captain Cook concerning the -religion of the Tahitians before they knew the -name of God and the story of the Saviour while -on earth:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The common people have only a very vague idea of -the religious sentiments of the race, but the priests, -who are quite numerous, have established quite an -extensive and somewhat complicated system. They -do not worship one God, as possessing preeminence; -but believe in a plurality of divinities, who are all -supposed to be very powerful, and, as different parts -of the island, and the other islands in the -neighborhood, have different ones, the inhabitants of such, -no doubt, think that they have chosen the most potent -and considerate one. Their devotion in serving their -gods is remarkably conspicuous. Not only the whattas -or offering-places of the morals are commonly loaded -with fruits and animals, but there are few houses -lacking a small place of the same sort. Many of them -are so impressed with their obligations to their divinity -that they will not begin a meal without first laying -aside a morsel for their Eatooa (their god).</p> -<p>Their prayers are also very frequent, which they -chant, much after the manner of songs, in their festive -entertainments. They also believe in an evil spirit, -they call Etee, who sometimes does them mischief, -and to whom, as well as to their god, they make -offerings.</p> -<p>But the mischiefs they fear from any superior -invisible beings are confined only to temporal things. They -believe the soul to be both immaterial and immortal. -They say that it keeps fluttering about the lips -during the pangs of death, and that then it ascends and -mixes with, or, as they express it, is eaten by the -deity. In this state it remains for some time; after -which it departs to a certain place destined for the -reception of the souls of men, where it exists in eternal -night, or, as they sometimes say, in twilight or dawn. -They have no idea of any permanent punishment after -death for crimes that they have committed on earth. -They believe in the recognition of relatives and friends -after death and in resuming the same relations as on -earth. If the husband dies first, the soul of his wife is -known to him on its arrival in the land of spirits. They -resume their former acquaintance, in a spacious house, -where the souls of the deceased assemble to recreate -themselves with the gods. From here man and wife -retire to their own habitation, where they remain -forever.</p> -<p>The most singular part of their faith consists in -claiming that not only man, but all other animals, trees, -fruit and even stones are endowed with a soul, which -at death, or upon being consumed or broken, ascends -to the divinity, with whom they first mix, and -afterward pass into the mansion allotted to each.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The temples of the Tahitians were the maraes, -enclosures of stones, where the offerings were -rendered, and on certain occasions human beings -were sacrificed. The largest marae ever built in -Tahiti is located at Papara and the ruins of -it remain to-day. At the time of Captain -Cook's visit there were numerous maraes all over -the island, which served as places of worship, -sacrifice and burial. The supreme chief of the -whole island was always housed in a marae and -after his death the marae was appropriated to -his family and some of the principal people. Such -a marae differed little from the common ones, -except in extent. Its principal part is a large, -oblong pile of stones, lying loosely upon each -other, about twelve or fourteen feet high, -contracted towards the top, with a square area on -each side, loosely packed with pebble stones, -under which the bones of the chiefs are buried. -At a little distance from the end nearest the sea is -the place where the sacrifices are offered, which, -for a considerable extent, is also loosely paved. -There is here a very large scaffold, or whatta, on -which the offerings, and other vegetables, are -laid. But the animals are deposited on a smaller -one, already mentioned, and the human -sacrifices are buried under different parts of the -pavement. The marae is the altar of other nations. -The skulls of the human sacrifices, after a few -months, are exhumed and preserved in the marae.</p> -<p>Captain Cook counted forty-nine such skulls in -the marae in which he witnessed the human -sacrifice.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image25"> -<img alt="AT HOME" src="images/Image25.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 338.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">AT HOME</p> -</div> -<p>Cannibalism did not exist in Tahiti when the -island was discovered, but human sacrifices were -quite frequently offered as a kind of religious -ceremony to appease the anger or displeasure of -some offended god. The victims were tramps -and persons of no vocation. They were either -clubbed or stoned to death by persons designated -for this purpose by the priests. On Saturday, -August 30, 1777, while Captain Cook was -stationed at Matavai for the purpose of observing -the transit of Venus, he received a message that -on the following day a human sacrifice would be -made at Attahura, to Eatooa, to implore the -assistance of the deity against the inhabitants of -the island of Moorea, who were then in a state -of war with Tahiti. Towha, a chief and relative -of the then reigning king, had killed a man for -the sacrifice. Captain Cook, with several friends, -accompanied King Otoo to witness the ceremony, -and describes the event in detail:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>On our way we landed upon a little island, which -lies off Tettaha, where we found Towha and his retinue. -After some little conversation between the two chiefs, -on the subject of the war, Towha addressed himself -to me, asking my assistance. When I excused myself, -he seemed angry; thinking it strange I, who had always -declared myself to be the friend of their island, should -not go and fight against its enemies. Before we parted -he gave to Otoo two or three red feathers, tied up in -a tuft; and a lean, half-starved dog was put in a canoe -that was to accompany us. We then embarked again, -taking on board a priest who was to assist at the -solemnity. As soon as we landed at Attahura, which -was about two o'clock in the afternoon, Otoo expressed -his desire that the seamen might be ordered to remain -in the boat, and that Mr. Anderson, Mr. Webber and -myself might take off our hats as soon as we should -come to the marai, to which we immediately proceeded, -attended by a great many men, and some boys, but not -one woman. We found four priests and their -attendants, or assistants, waiting for us.</p> -<p>The dead body, or sacrifice, was in a small canoe -that lay on the beach and partly in the water of the -sea, fronting the marai. Two of the priests, with -some of the attendants, were sitting by the canoe, the -others at the marai. Our company stopped about -twenty or thirty paces from the priests. Here Otoo -placed himself; we, and a few others standing by him, -while the bulk of the people remained at a greater -distance. The ceremony now began. One of the -priest's attendants brought a young plantain tree, and -laid it down before Otoo. Another approached with -a small tuft of red feathers, twisted on some fibres of -the cocoanut husk, with which he touched one of the -King's, feet and then retired with it to his companions. -One of the priests, seated at the marai, facing those -who were upon the beach, now began a long prayer; -and, at certain times, sent down young plantain trees, -which were laid upon the sacrifice. During this prayer, -a man, who stood by the officiating priest, held in his -hands two bundles, seemingly of cloth. One of them, as -we afterward found, was the royal Maro; and the -other, if I may be allowed the expression, was the -ark of the Eatooa. As soon as the prayer was ended, -the priests at the marai, with their attendants, went -and sat down by those upon the beach, carrying with -them the two bundles. Here they renewed their -prayers, during which the plantain trees were taken, -one by one, at different times, from off the sacrifice, -which was partly wrapped up in cocoa-leaves and small -branches.</p> -<p>It was now taken out of the canoe and laid upon -the beach, with the feet to the sea. The priests placed -themselves around it, some sitting and others standing; -and one, or more of them, repeated sentences for about -ten minutes. The dead body was now uncovered, -by removing the leaves and branches, and laid in a -parallel direction with the seashore. One of the priests -then, standing at the feet of it, pronounced a long -prayer, in which he was, at times, joined by the others, -each holding in his hand a tuft of red feathers. In -the course of this prayer, some hair was pulled off the -head of the sacrifice, and the left eye taken out; both -of which were presented to Otoo, and wrapped up in -a green leaf. He did not, however, touch it; but gave, -to the man who presented it, the tuft of feathers, which -he had received from Towha. This, with the hair and -the eye, was carried back to the priests. Soon after, -Otoo sent to them another piece of feathers, which he -had given me in the morning to keep in my pocket. -During some part of this last ceremony, a kingfisher -making a noise in the trees, Otoo turned to me saying, -"That is the Eatooa;" and seemed to look upon it to -be a good omen.</p> -<p>The body was then carried a little way, with its head -toward the marai, and laid under a tree, near which -were fixed three broad, thin pieces of wood, differently -but rudely carved. The bundles of cloth were laid on -a part of the marai, and the tufts of red feathers were -placed at the feet of the sacrifice, round which the -priests took their stations, and we were now allowed -to go as near as we pleased. He seemed to be the -chief priest who sat at a small distance, and spoke for -a quarter of an hour, but with different tones and -gestures; so that he seemed often to expostulate with -the dead person, to whom he constantly addressed -himself, and sometimes asked several questions, seemingly -with respect to the propriety of his having been -killed. At other times, he made several demands, as -if the deceased either now had power himself, or -interest with the divinity, to engage him to comply -with such requests. Among the petitions we understood, -he asked him to deliver Eimeo (Moorea), Maheine its -chief, the hogs, women and other things of the island -into their hands; which was, indeed, the express -intention of the sacrifice. He then chanted a prayer, which -lasted nearly half an hour, in whining, melancholy tone, -accompanied by two other priests, and in which Potatou -and some others joined. In the course of this prayer, -some more hair was plucked by a priest from the head -of the corpse, and put upon one of the bundles. After -this, the chief priest prayed alone, holding in his hand -the feathers which came from Towha. When he had -finished, he gave them to another, who prayed in like -manner. Then all the tufts of the feathers were laid -upon the bundles of cloth, which closed the ceremony -at this place.</p> -<p>The corpse was then carried up to the most -conspicuous part of the marai, with the feathers, the two -bundles of cloth, and the drums, the last of which beat -slowly. The feathers and bundles were laid against -the pile of stones, and the corpse at the foot of them. -The priests having again seated themselves round it, -renewed their prayers, while some of their attendants -dug a hole about two feet deep, into which they threw -the unhappy victim, and covered it over with earth and -stones. While they were putting him into the grave, -a boy squeaked aloud and Omai (Captain Cook's -interpreter) said that it was the Eatooa.</p> -<p>The human sacrifice was followed by the offering of -dogs and pigs. The many prayers and complicated -ceremonies attending human sacrifice stamp it as a -religious rite which has undoubtedly been practiced for -centuries. In this particular instance it meant a message -through the instrumentality of the unfortunate victim -to implore Eatooa for assistance in the impending war -with Moorea.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>It is very interesting indeed to have an -account of this ceremony preserved by an -eyewitness like Captain Cook, and no apology is -necessary here to have it reappear in all its -minute details. Another religious ceremony of -lesser import is circumcision. How this custom -was introduced into Tahiti no one knows. It is -more than probable that, in some way it came -from the distant Orient in a modified form. It -differs from the Jewish rite in that it is not -performed on infants, but on boys approaching the -age of puberty. Captain Cook gives the -following description of the operation as he observed it:</p> -<blockquote> -When there are five or six lads pretty well grown -up in a neighborhood the father of one of them goes -to a Tahoua, or man of knowledge, and lets him know. -He goes with the lads to the top of the hills, attended -by a servant; and, seating one of them properly, -introduces a piece of wood underneath the foreskin, and -desires him to look aside at something he pretends is -coming. Having thus engaged the young man's -attention to another object, he cuts through the skin upon -the wood, with a shark's tooth, generally at one stroke. -He then separates, or rather turns back, the divided -parts; and, having put on a bandage, proceeds to -perform the same operation on the other lads. At the -end of five days they bathe, and the bandages being -taken off, the matter is cleaned away. At the end of -five days more they bathe again, and are well; but a -thickness of the prepuce, where it was cut, remaining, -they go again to the mountains with the Tahoua and -servant; and a fire being prepared, and some stones -heated, the Tahoua puts the prepuce between two of -them, and squeezes it gently, which removes the -thickness. They then return home, having their heads and -other parts of their bodies, adorned with odoriferous -flowers, and the Tahoua is rewarded for his services -by their fathers, in proportion to their several abilities, -with presents of hogs and cloth; and if they be poor, -their relations are liberal on the occasion.</blockquote> -<p>How the wise man managed to keep the boys -together during two such painful ordeals is not -easy to understand, but as they remained at their -posts until all had passed through it speaks -volumes for their good behavior and manly courage. -That the Tahitians possessed many admirable -virtues during their paganism proves only too -clearly that</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Virtue is shut out from no one; she is open to all, -accepts all, invites all, gentlemen, freedmen, slaves, -kings and exiles; she selects neither house nor fortune; -she is satisfied with a human without adjuncts.</p> -<p>SENECA.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image26"> -<img alt="A HOME BY THE SEA" src="images/Image26.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 360.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">A HOME BY THE SEA–RAIATEA</p> -</div> -<p>These virtues, the prayers, the sacrifices, the -belief in a supreme being and eternity, show -that the Tahitians were imbued with a natural -religion, for</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The existence of God is so many ways manifest and -the obedience we owe Him so congruous to the light -of reason, that a great part of mankind give testimony -to the law of nature.</p> -<p>LOCKE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The natives had no literature nor any -communication with the outside world farther than -the neighboring island groups. Their only book -was nature, and this was read and studied with -eagerness and intelligence. Their ancient history -consisted of legendary lore handed down from -generation to generation. But</p> -<blockquote> -<p>There are books extant which they must needs allow -of as proper evidence; even the mighty volumes of -visible nature, and the everlasting tables of right reason.</p> -<p>BENTLEY.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>From century to century, from generation to -generation, these people, without leaving a -permanent record of what had happened and -without being conscious of art or science, lived -and died in a state of happiness and contentment.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>For he had no catechism but the creation, needed no -study but recollection, and read no book but the volume -of the world.</p> -<p>SOUTH.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>That ignorance and vice should have existed -among this primitive people, so completely -isolated from the progressive part of the world, is -not strange, as they lived in a land of plenty, fed -and clothed, as it were, by the almost unaided -resources of nature, conditions largely -responsible for their inborn laziness. Ignorance and -superstition go hand in hand. The Tahitians have -always been extremely superstitious and both -civilization and Christianization have been -powerless in eradicating this national evil. We must, -however, judge them not too severely in this -matter, as superstition is by no means uncommon -amongst us at the present day. Our best poets -are not exempt from it.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>I think it is the weakness of mine eyes</p> -<p>That shapes this wondrous apparition:</p> -<p>It comes upon me!</p> -<p>SHAKESPEARE.</p> -<p>Millions of spiritual creatures walk the earth unseen, -both when we wake and when we sleep.</p> -<p>MILTON.</p> -<p>A person terrified with the imagination of spectres is -more reasonable than one who thinks the appearance -of spirits fabulous and groundless.</p> -<p>ADDISON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>With the progress and spread of education of -the masses, superstition will gradually be starved -out here as elsewhere. The greatest vice of the -Tahitians is licentiousness, which remains as when -Captain Cook visited the island. In speaking of -the looseness of the marital relations, he says:</p> -<blockquote> -And so agreeable is this licentious plan of life to -their disposition, that the most beautiful of both sexes -thus commonly spend their youthful days, habituated -to the practice of enormities which would disgrace the -most savage tribes, but are peculiarly shocking amongst -a people whose general character in other respects has -evident traces of the prevalence of humane and tender -feelings.</blockquote> -<p>The Tahitians have reason to claim that</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The vices collected through so many ages for a long -time past flow in upon us.</p> -<p>SENECA.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Intemperance among the natives has never had -a firm foothold in the island and tobacco is used -with moderation. Gambling, such a common vice -among the peoples of the Orient, has never been -cultivated and practiced to any extent in Tahiti. -These ocean-bound people, living in happy and -contented isolation, had no desire for national or -personal wealth or fame, neither had they any -inclination or desire for art or the sciences. They -believed in the mottoes:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>If you are but content, you have enough to live upon -with comfort.</p> -<p>PLAUTUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>and</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Ambition breaks the ties of blood, and forgets the -obligations of gratitude.</p> -<p>SIR WALTER SCOTT.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>They lived a restful, unselfish life, happy in the -companionship of their families, relatives and -friends, with no morbid desires to distract them -from the full enjoyment of what Nature showered -upon them with bountiful never-failing liberality.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Their customs are by Nature wrought; -But we, by art, unteach what Nature taught.</p> -<p>DRYDEN.</p> -</blockquote> -</div> -<div class="section" id="the-insignia-of-tahitian-royalty"> -<h1>THE INSIGNIA OF TAHITIAN ROYALTY</h1> -<p>Tahitian royalty was hereditary, and women -were not excluded. There were chiefs and -chiefesses governing tribes, and head chiefs and -head chiefesses ruling over several tribes or the -whole island. There were no crowns and no -sceptres. The insignia of royalty was a belt -ornamented with feathers. The red feathers -were what the diamonds and other precious -stones are in ancient and modern crowns. This -belt was called Maro. Captain Cook gives the -following description of a maro:</p> -<blockquote> -It is a girdle, about five yards long, and fifteen -inches broad; and, from its name, seems to be put on -in the same manner as is the common maro, or piece -of cloth used by these people to wrap round the waist. -It was ornamented with red and yellow feathers; but -mostly with the latter, taken from a dove found upon -the island. The one end was bordered with eight -pieces, each about the size and shape of a horseshoe, -having their edges fringed with black feathers. The -other end was forked, and the points were of different -lengths. The feathers were in square compartments, -ranged in two rows, and otherwise so disposed to -produce a pleasing effect. They had been first pasted -or fixed upon some of their own cloth, and then sewed -to the upper end of the pendant which Captain Wallis -had displayed, and left flying ashore, the first time that -he landed at Matavai.</blockquote> -<p>This insignia of office was highly respected by -the natives and was handed down from one -generation of rulers to the other, carrying with it -the sovereignty of the office. One of the civil -wars in the island was caused by a failure on -the part of one of the chief esses (Purea) to -deliver the maro to her legitimate successor.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="diseases-of-tahiti"> -<h1>DISEASES OF TAHITI</h1> -<p>Before the Europeans came to Tahiti, the -beautiful little island was a sanatorium. The natives -were temperate, frugal in their habits, -subsisting almost exclusively on fish, fruit and -vegetables, and lived practically an outdoor life even -in their bamboo huts. They were -unencumbered by useless clothing and spent, as they do -now, much of their time in sea and fresh-water -bathing. They were almost exempt from acute -destructive diseases. They were free from the -most fatal of acute contagious and infectious -diseases, such as smallpox, measles, scarlatina, -cholera, etc. Tuberculosis and venereal diseases -were unknown before the white man invaded the -island. The immediate effect of the European -civilization on the health and lives of the natives -was frightful. On this subject I will let -Ariitaimai speak:</p> -<blockquote> -When England and France began to show us the -advantages of their civilization, we were, as races then -went, a great people. Hawaii, Tahiti, the Marquesas, -Tonga, Samoa and New Zealand made a respectable -figure on the earth's surface, and contained a population -of no small size, better fitted than any other possible -community for the condition in which they lived. Tahiti, -being the first to come in close contact with the -foreigners, was first to suffer. The people, who numbered, -according to Cook, two hundred thousand in 1767, -numbered less than twenty thousand in 1797, according -to the missionaries, and only about five thousand in -1803. This frightful mortality has been often doubted, -because Europeans have naturally shrunk from -admit ting the horrors of their own work, but no one doubts -it who belongs to the native race. Tahiti did not -stand alone in misery; what happened there happened -everywhere, not only in the great groups of high islands, -like Hawaii with three or four hundred thousand -people, but in little coral atolls which could only support -a few score.</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image27"> -<img alt="FISHERMEN'S HOME" src="images/Image27.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 386.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">FISHERMEN'S HOME</p> -<div class="legend"> -<blockquote> -<p>Moerenhout, who was the most familiar of all -travelers with the islands in our part of the ocean, told the -same story about all. He was in the Austral group -in 1834. At Raivave he found ninety or one hundred -native rapidly dying, where fully twelve hundred had -been living only twelve or fourteen years before. At -Tubuai he found less than two hundred people among -the ruins of houses, temples and tombs. At Rurutu -and Rimitava, where a thousand or twelve hundred -people had occupied each, hardly two hundred were -left, while nearly all the women had been swept away -at Rurutu. Tlie story of the Easter Islanders is -famous. That of the Marquesas is about as pathetic -as that of Tahiti or Hawaii. Everywhere the -Polynesian perished, and to him it mattered little whether he -died of some new disease or from some new weapon, -like the musket, or from misgovernment, caused by the -foreign intervention.</p> -<p>No doubt the new diseases were most fatal. Almost -all of them took some form of fever, and comparatively -harmless epidemics, like measles, became frightfully -fatal when the native, to allay the fever, insisted on -bathing in cold water. Dysentery and ordinary colds, -which the people were too ignorant and too indolent -to nurse, took the proportions of plagues. For forty -generations these people had been isolated in this ocean, -as though they were in a modern sanatorium, protected -from contact with new forms of disease, and living on -vegetables and fish. The virulent diseases which had -been developed among the struggling masses of Asia -and Europe found a rich field for destruction when -they were brought to the South Seas. Just as such -pests as lantana, the mimosa or sensitive plant, and the -guava have overrun many of the islands, where the -field for them was open, so diseases ran through the -people. For this, perhaps, the foreigners were not -wholly responsible, although their civilization certainly -was; but for the political misery the foreigner was -wholly to blame, and for the social and moral -degradation he was the active cause. No doubt the ancient -society of Tahiti had plenty of vices and was a sort -of Paris in its refinements of wickedness, but these -had not prevented the islanders from leading as happy -lives as had ever been known among men.</p> -</blockquote> -</div> -</div> -<p>These are strong words, but they are -nevertheless only too true. Civilization brings to savage -races curses as well as blessings. The primitive -people are more receptive of new vices than -new virtues.</p> -<p>In 1880 the number of inhabitants had again -increased to thirteen thousand five hundred, but -since that time it has been reduced to eleven -thousand, as shown by the last census. When -Captain Cook visited the island he emphasized -particularly the absence of acute diseases. In -speaking of chronic diseases he remarks:</p> -<blockquote> -They only reckon five or six which might be called -chronic, or national disorders, amongst which are the -dropsy and the <em>fefai</em>, or indolent swellings before -mentioned as frequent at Tongataboo.</blockquote> -<p>The fearful, swift depopulation of the island -was caused by the introduction of new acute -infectious and contagious diseases, such as -smallpox, measles, whooping-cough, la grippe, etc., -which among these people was attended by a -frightful mortality. It was only three years ago -that an epidemic of measles, a trifling disease -with us, claimed several hundred lives, -including many adults, and extended to nearly all of -the islands of the entire group. The disease that -is now threatening the extinction of the race -in a short time is pulmonary tuberculosis. The -natives are extremely susceptible to this disease, -and the small native houses, crowded with large -families, are the breeding stations for infection.</p> -<p>The French government has at last recognized -the need of taking active measures to improve -the sanitary conditions of their colony and -protect the natives against the spread of infectious -diseases. A corps of three physicians, sent by the -French government on this mission, made the -voyage from San Francisco to the island on the -steamer <em>Mariposa</em> with me. The names of these -physicians are: Dr. Grosfillez, surgeon-major of -the first class of the colonial troops; Dr. H. -Rowan, a graduate of the Pasteur Institute, and -Dr. F. Cassiau, of the clinic of Marseilles. The -military surgeon receives an annual salary of -fifteen hundred dollars, the two civil doctors -twelve hundred dollars each. They are under -contract for five years. They have been given -judicial power to enforce all sanitary regulations -they see fit to institute. They will be stationed at -different points and will establish a requisite -number of lazarettos, something which will fill -a long-felt and pressing need.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image28"> -<img alt="NATIVE SETTLEMENT" src="images/Image28.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 338.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">NATIVE SETTLEMENT</p> -</div> -</div> -<div class="section" id="present-prevailing-diseases"> -<h1>PRESENT PREVAILING DISEASES</h1> -<p>The average temperature of the inhabited part -of the island, which can not be less than 78 to -80 degrees Fahrenheit, has a relaxing influence -on the natives and much more so on the small -contingent of whites. The Europeans and -Americans find it necessary every three to five years -to seek for a few months a cooler climate to -restore their energies and vigor. The -government officials and officers of the small garrison -are not obliged to serve for more than the same -time consecutively, when they are relieved from -their posts and commands. It is this relaxation -which, to a certain extent, at least, is responsible -for the great mortality of comparatively mild, -acute, infectious diseases, and the severity of -pulmonary tuberculosis among the natives. -Tuberculosis of the lymphatic glands, skin, bones -and joints appears to be extremely rare. The -moisture-laden atmosphere and the suddenness -with which the cool land and ocean breezes set -in after the heat of the day, are conducive to the -development of rheumatic affections, which are -prevalent in all parts of the island, more -especially during the rainy season in midwinter. The -same can be said of bronchial affections and -pneumonia. The free and unrestrained intercourse -among natives accounts for the rapid spread of -tuberculosis and acute infectious diseases among -the entire population and from island to island.</p> -<p>The sanitary commission now engaged, in -efforts to reduce the mortality of the natives will -establish rules and regulations which will have -for their object the prevention of dissemination -of acute as well as chronic infectious diseases, -and will undoubtedly accomplish much toward -the preservation of the race; but these officers -will meet with stubborn opposition on the part -of the natives when attempts are made, in their -interest, to curtail their personal liberties. The -ties of relationship and friendship among the -natives are very strong, and become most -apparent in case of misfortunes and sickness. -Smallpox breaks out almost every year, and claims its -share of victims. Vaccination is supposed to be -compulsory, but the natives are inclined to escape -it. Vaccination is done gratuitously at the -Military Hospital for all natives who can be induced -to submit to it. Under present conditions it is -almost impossible to reach the inhabitants of the -small atoll islands.</p> -<p>Like in all tropic countries, tetanus is of -quite frequent occurrence. The small native -pony is found everywhere, and as the rural natives -are all barefooted and spend much of their time in -the jungles in impregnating the flower of the -vanilla-bean and gathering fruits, wounds prone -to infection with the tetanus bacillus are of -frequent occurrence.</p> -<p>Malarial diseases are comparatively rare, -although the plasmodium-carrying mosquitoes are -numerous and aggressive, and children in the -country districts are nude, and the men limit their -clothing to the wearing of a loin-cloth. No case -of typhoid fever has been known to have -originated in the island. For this there exists a -satisfactory explanation. The exemption in this -island from this disease, so widely distributed -over the entire part of the inhabited globe, is -due entirely to an abundant supply of the purest -drinking water supplied by the numerous -mountain streams. Nearly all the inhabitants live on -the coast, near the outlet of a brook or stream, -where, consequently, there is no danger whatever -of water-contamination. I found three cases of -typhoid fever in the Military Hospital, members -of one family, who had been brought there from -one of the neighboring atoll islands.</p> -<p>Varicose veins, varicocele and hydrocele are -very common. The absence of anything like a -large ulcer in many cases of large and numerous -varicose veins of the leg, I attributed to the -toughness of the skin of the bare legs. Venereal -diseases are widespread throughout the entire -island, and more especially in Papeete and the -near-by larger villages. For over a hundred years -the natives have suffered from this scourge -brought there by the European sailors and -adventurers. Syphilis has been transmitted from -generation to generation until it has -contaminated the major part of the population, for</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The gods visit the sins of the fathers upon the -children.</p> -<p>EURIPIDES.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>and</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The wickedness of a few brings calamity on all.</p> -<p>PUBLIUS SYRUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The length of time the disease has existed -among the natives has established a certain -degree of tolerance or immunity, as it pursues a -comparatively mild course, as I found very few -instances of the ravages of the remote results -of syphilis. I saw only one case of saddle nose, -caused by tertiary syphilis.</p> -<p>Leprosy is not as prevalent as in the Hawaiian -Islands, but isolated cases are found in nearly -all the islands belonging to this group, being more -prevalent in some than in others. Segregation -has never been attempted. The lepers mix freely -with the members of their families and neighbors, -and are not shunned by any one. I was informed -that many of the lepers, much disfigured by the -disease, seek an island where many of these -unfortunates have founded a colony for the purpose -of escaping from public gaze. There, away from -relatives and friends, they spend their short span -of life and await patiently the final relief which -only death can bring.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>O Death, the Healer, scorn thou not, I pray. -To come to me; of cureless ills thou art -The one physician. Pain lays not its touch upon a -corpse.</p> -<p>ÆSCHYLUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Elephantiasis in its worst forms has taken a -firm hold on the natives, especially the inhabitants -of the near-by island of Moorea. There this -disease can be studied in all its stages, from a slight -enlargement of one of the extremities to -colossal swellings, which, when the upper and lower -extremities are affected at the same time, make it -necessary for the patient to crawl on his hands -and feet in dragging himself from place to place. -Regarding elephantiasis as it exists in Tahiti and -the other islands of the French colony, I will -make use of a few extracts taken from a valuable -paper on this subject by Dr. Lemoine, recently in -charge of the Military Hospital, and published in -one of the government reports. According to -this author, who has seen much of this disease in -Tahiti and surrounding islands, it may affect -most regions of the body, and not infrequently -makes its appearance as an acute affection with -all the symptoms characteristic of lymphangitis, -including quite a violent continued remittent -form of fever, which lasts two or three months. -The acute form is, almost without exception, -complicated by synovitis of the joints of the -affected limb, which he regards as almost -pathognomonic of the disease, differentiating it from -ordinary forms of lymphangitis. After the -subsidence of the acute symptoms and in the chronic -form the disease is essentially a chronic -lymphangitits, accompanied by marked enlargement of -the veins. According to his observations the -regions most frequently involved are the lower -extremities, external genitals, and lastly, the -hands and forearms. Three years ago I was -given an opportunity to see at the hospital and -poorhouse at Antigua, West Indies, ninety cases -of elephantiasis, and not in a single one of them -did the disease affect the upper extremity, while -in the French colony of the South Seas this is -not infrequently the case. I do not know that -a satisfactory explanation has ever been given -why the disease should behave so differently in -fixing its location in the two groups of islands. -Lemoine, as well as other writers on -elephantiasis, has seen the disease become stationary by -the removal of the patient to a colder climate. -Europeans become susceptible to elephantiatic -infection after a prolonged residence in tropical -countries where the disease prevails.</p> -<p>Lemoine does not agree with Manson, who -believes that elephantiasis is caused by the -<em>Filaria sanguinis</em>, and is suspicious that the -essential parasitic cause is a yet undiscovered microbe. -He made blood examinations night and day of -patients under his care, and was unable to -constantly detect the filariæ in their embryonic state -in the peripheral blood, and consequently claims -that the presence of filaria in the organism is not -an infallible diagnostic indication, and that their -abundance is not proportionate to the intensity -of the disease. The fact that the elephantiatics -improve in colder climates he regards as another -proof that filariasis is not the essential cause of -the disease.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image29"> -<img alt="TAHITIAN CHILDREN" src="images/Image29.jpg" style="width: 392.0px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">GROUP OF TAHITIAN CHILDREN</p> -</div> -<p>In a number of cases extirpation of the -infiltrated enlarged lymphatic glands was followed by -decided improvement, and in the case of a -Tahitian the improvement remained at the end of -three years. He has also operated on a number -of cases by partial excision of the mass, first on -one side of the limb, then on the other, with -decided benefit to the patient in most of them. In -some cases deep incisions through the entire -thickness of the indurated mass afforded relief -and resulted in diminution of the size of the -swelling. He relates the details of the case of a -native, fifty years old, the subject of -elephantiasis of the lower limbs, that he operated on in -two stages several weeks apart, removing first a -large section from the anterior and later from -the posterior part of the swelling, and as shown -by the accompanying illustrations in the report -depicting the condition of the limbs before and -after operation, with an excellent result. -However, in some of the cases the benefit thus derived -did not last for any considerable length of time.</p> -<p>In making the excision, the superfluous skin is -excised with the underlying indurated tissues, -and the skin margins reflected for some distance -in order to create sufficient room for a more -liberal removal of the deep tissues. In one case, -that of a woman thirty-eight years of age, the -patient died two weeks after the second operation. -Death was attributed to loss of blood and the -debilitated condition of the patient when she -entered the hospital. In another case, a Tahitian, -thirty-five years old, affected with elephantiasis -of all limbs and the external genitals, he operated -successfully on one of the arms, the seat of an -enormous swelling below the elbow. The excised -mass weighed fifteen kilograms. Owing to the -large size of the swelling, the operation proved -one of great difficulty, and on account of the -tension incident to the approximation of the margins -of the flaps the sutures cut through and the -wound ultimately healed by granulation. At the -second operation nearly the entire mass was -removed, with the result that the wound finally -healed after a prolonged suppuration and the -patient was relieved of the incumbrance caused -by the great weight of the swelling. The relief -afforded induced the patient to request additional -operations for the removal of the swellings -involving other regions of the body, but as the -surgeon soon after left the island his desire could -not be gratified.</p> -<p>The climate of Tahiti is not congenial for -pulmonary and rheumatic affections, as the -atmosphere is too moist. It is admirably adapted for -patients the subjects of nervous affections in all -their protean forms. The quietude, balmy air -and pleasing surroundings are the best -therapeutic agents to secure mental rest and refreshing -sleep. It is in the treatment of such affections -that a trip to Tahiti can not be too strongly -recommended.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="the-kahuna-or-native-doctor"> -<h1>THE KAHUNA OR NATIVE DOCTOR</h1> -<p>For centuries the practice of the healing art -was largely in the hands of priests. They -ministered to the body as well as the soul. Their -practice was purely empirical and the surgery, -even of the most skilled, rude and often brutal. -The human mind is very much inclined to look -upon disease and the methods used to effect -a cure as something mysterious. Even at this -late day many people who are well educated -and who in everything else seem to possess a -liberal amount of good common sense, have very -strange ideas in regard to disease and the means -employed in treatment. Promises to cure and a -liberal expenditure of printers' ink render them -an easy prey to mysterious methods. All races -and all tribes have always had among them men -and women in whom they confided in case of -accident or disease. Very often priesthood and -medicine were combined in the same person. -Among the ancient Tahitians the chief was at -the same time priest and medical adviser. The -American Indians had their medicine-men, the -Tahitians and other South Sea Islanders their -Kahuna. It is very interesting to know -something of the early practice of medicine and -surgery among the Tahitians. Captain Cook -gives them great credit from what he saw of their -surgery:</p> -<blockquote> -They perform cures in surgery, which our extensive -knowledge in that branch has not, as yet, enabled us to -imitate. In simple fractures, they bind them up with -splints, but if part of the substance of the bone be -lost, they insert a piece of wood, between the fractured -ends, made hollow like the deficient part. In five or -six days, the rapooa, or surgeon, inspects the wound, -and finds the wood partly covered with the growing -flesh. In as many more days, it is generally entirely -covered; after which, when the patient has acquired -some strength, he bathes in the water, and recovers.</blockquote> -<p>In speaking of medicine he says:</p> -<blockquote> -Their physical knowledge seems more confined; and -that, probably, because their diseases are fewer than -their accidents. The priests, however, administer the -juices of herbs in some cases; and women who are -troubled with after-pains, or other disorders after -child-bearing, use a remedy which one would think -needless in a hot country. They first heat stones, as -when they bake their food; then they lay a thick cloth -over them, upon which is put a quantity of a small -plant of the mustard kind; and these are covered with -another cloth. Upon this they seat themselves, and -sweat plentifully, to obtain a cure. They have no -emetic medicine.</blockquote> -<p>In referring to the few indigenous diseases -he adds:</p> -<blockquote> -But this was before the arrival of the Europeans; -for we have added to this short category a disease -which abundantly supplies the place of all the others; -and is now almost universal [syphilis]. For this they -seem to have no effectual remedy. The priests, indeed, -sometimes give them a medley of simples; but they own -that it never cures them, and yet, they allow that, in -a few cases, nature, without the assistance of a -physician, exterminates the poison of this fatal disease, and -perfect recovery is produced. They say that a man -affected with it will often communicate it to others in -the same house, by feeding out of the same utensils, -or handling them, and that, in this case, they frequently -die, while he recovers; though we see no reason why -this should happen.</blockquote> -<p>On his fourth voyage to the Society Islands -Captain Cook learned to what fearful extent -syphilis had spread throughout all of the islands -of the group and became aware what ravages it -had caused among the natives. On visiting new -islands he did all in his power to protect the -natives against this scourge by excluding all -women visitors from the ship and by strictly -enjoining persons known to be infected from -landing. On the probable effects of these new -regulations he comments:</p> -<blockquote> -Whether these regulations, dictated by humanity, -had the desired effect, or no, time only can discover. -I had been equally attentive to the same object when -I first visited the Friendly Islands; yet I afterward -found, with real concern, that I had not succeeded, and -I am afraid that this will always be the case, in such -voyages as ours, whenever it is necessary to have a -number of people on shore.</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image30"> -<img alt="FAR-ADVANCED LEPROSY" src="images/Image30.jpg" style="width: 431.0px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">A CASE OF FAR-ADVANCED LEPROSY AFFECTING ALL LIMBS</p> -</div> -<p>Massage as a remedial agent in the treatment -of disease originated in the Orient, and the -Tahitians were familiar with it and frequently made -use of it. On this subject Captain Cook can -speak from personal experience. During his stay -in Tahiti in 1777 he suffered evidently from a -severe attack of sciatica, the pain extending from -the hip to the toes. King Otoo's mother, his -three sisters and eight more women came on his -ship one evening for the purpose of giving him -treatment and remained all night to fulfill their -well-meant mission. Here is the account of the -treatment to which he was subjected by the -women:</p> -<blockquote> -I accepted the kindly offer, had a bed spread for them -upon the cabin floor, and submitted myself to their -directions. I was desired to lay myself down amongst -them. Then, as many of them as could get around me, -began to squeeze me with both hands, from head to foot, -but more particularly on the parts where the pain was -lodged, till they made my bones crack, and my flesh -became a perfect mummy. In short, after undergoing -this discipline about a quarter of an hour, I was glad to -get away from them. However, the operation gave me -immediate relief, which encouraged me to submit to -another rubbing down before I went to bed; and it -was so efficient that I found myself pretty easy all the -night after. My female physicians repeated their -prescription the next morning, before they went ashore, -and again in the evening, when they returned on board; -after which, I found the pains entirely removed, and -the cure being perfected, they took leave of me the -following morning. This they call <em>romee</em>, an operation -which, in my opinion, far exceeds the flesh-brush, or -anything of the kind that we make use of externally. -It is universally practised amongst the islanders, being -sometimes performed by men, but more generally by -women.</blockquote> -</div> -<div class="section" id="physicians-in-tahiti"> -<h1>PHYSICIANS IN TAHITI</h1> -<p>Tahiti is not an Eldorado for doctors. The -entire island has only eleven thousand inhabitants -and the great majority of them are too poor to -pay for medical services. The only place in -Tahiti where a doctor can be found is in Papeete. -At the time I visited the island there was only one -physician in private practice in the capital city, -Dr. Chassaniol, a retired naval surgeon, the only -private practitioner in the whole group of islands. -The bulk of medical practice is in the hands of -the government physician, always a military man -who has at the same time charge of the Military -Hospital and takes care of the sick poor, and -supervises all matters pertaining to sanitation. -The only other physicians in the island are the -naval surgeons on board a small man-of-war -almost constantly anchored in the harbor of -Papeete. The government physician is privileged -to practice outside of the hospital, and from this -source he receives the bulk of his income. As -the resident physician and the government -physician are the only qualified physicians in the -whole archipelago, it requires no stretch of the -imagination to realize that until the present time -the French government has not made adequate -provisions for their subjects who require the -services of a physician.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image31"> -<img alt="A LEPER OF TAHITI" src="images/Image31.jpg" style="width: 334.5px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">A LEPER OF TAHITI</p> -</div> -<p>The Tahitians have not lost their faith in their -Kahunas or native doctors, who without any -medical knowledge, practice their art. These -men, with a local reputation as healers of disease, -are to be found in nearly every village. They are -well thought of and are influential members of -society in their respective communities. Like the -medicine-men of our Indians, they make use of -roots, bark and herbs as remedial agents, and the -natives, like many of our own people, have more -faith in this mysterious kind of medication than -in modern, concentrated, palatable drugs -prescribed by the most eminent physician. To the -credit of these native medicine-men, it must be -said that they give to all afflicted who apply for -treatment not only their services, but also the -medicines without any expectation of a financial -reward or even the gratitude of their clients.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="hopital-militaire"> -<h1>HÔPITAL MILITAIRE</h1> -<p>The military hospital at Papeete is the only one -in the French colonial possession of the Society -Islands, numbering one hundred and sixty-eight -islands and containing thirty thousand -inhabitants, of whom eleven thousand live in Tahiti. -As some of these islands are more than one -hundred miles apart, it is somewhat strange that -the French government has not taken earlier -action in establishing small cottage hospitals in -a number of the larger islands, as in case of -severe injuries or sudden illness the natives of -the distant islands are not within reach of timely -medical aid and the transportation of a sick or -injured person to Papeete from the far-off islands -or villages by small schooners or canoes is -necessarily slow and in many instances dangerous. -The Sanitary Commission now stationed in the -islands will, it is to be hoped, act promptly in -remedying this serious defect in the care of the -sick natives.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image32"> -<img alt="MILITARY HOSPITAL" src="images/Image32.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 492.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">MILITARY HOSPITAL IN PAPEETE</p> -</div> -<p>The Military Hospital at Papeete is an old -structure of brick and cement, situated near the -western limits of the city in a large square yard -inclosed by a high stone wall, surmounted by a -crest of fragments of glass, which imparts to the -inclosure a prison-like appearance, the austerity -of which, however, is much relieved by -beautiful tropical trees, shrubbery and flowers in front -of the entrance and in the courtyard. The -hospital proper comprises seven buildings, only one -of which is two stories high. The hospital has -accommodations for forty beds. The officers' -rooms contain two beds each; the remaining space -is divided into small wards for privates and -civilians. In one ward, the windows of which -are strongly barred, are kept the military -prisoners, and another small ward is devoted to -obstetrical cases. The rooms and wards are well -ventilated and clean, the beds comfortable; the -hospital furniture otherwise is scanty and antique. -The drug-room is large, richly supplied with -capacious jars, mortars of all sizes, herbs, roots -and a complete outfit for making infusions, -decoctions and tinctures, which reminds one very -vividly of an apothecary shop of half a century -ago. This department is in charge of a -pharmacist who, besides mixing drugs, does some -chemical and bacteriological work in a small and -imperfectly equipped laboratory. The -operating-room is an open passageway between two -adjoining wards, and all it contained suggestive of its -use were an operating table of prodigious size -and decidedly primitive construction, and, -suspended from the wall, a tin irrigator, to which was -attached a long piece of rubber tubing of -doubtful age. The hospital is well supplied with water, -and contains a bathroom, a shower-bath and -modern closets. The hospital is in charge of the -government physician, who is always a medical -officer of the colonial troops, detailed for this -special service, usually for a period of three -years. From the official reports I gleaned that -on an average this institution takes care of about -three hundred and fifty patients a year. At the -time of my visit the number of patients did not -exceed fifteen, among them one in the prison -ward. All of the patients were the subjects of -trifling affections, with the exception of three -cases of typhoid fever sent to the hospital from -one of the atoll islands. The patients are being -cared for by three Catholic sisters and orderlies -as they are needed. The poor are admitted -gratuitously; private patients pay from six to fifteen -francs a day. The hospital is beautifully located -on the principal street of the city and faces the -charming little harbor. A small private hospital -for the foreign residents and tourists is needed -here and under proper management would prove -a remunerative investment.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="the-island-of-plenty"> -<h1>THE ISLAND OF PLENTY</h1> -<blockquote> -<p>O Christ! it is a goodly sight to see</p> -<p>What heaven hath done for this delicious land.</p> -<p>BYRON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The wealth of Tahiti is on its surface. Its -mountains are not pregnant with precious metals -nor has nature stored up in their interior material -for fuel and illumination, as none of these are -needful to make the people content and happy. -The Tahitian has no desire to accumulate wealth; -the warm rays of the sun reduce the use of -fuel to a minimum, and the millions of glittering -stars and the soft silvery light of the moon in -the clear blue sky create a bewitching light at -night, which, more than half of the time, would -make artificial illumination a mockery. Then, -too, Tahiti is the land of gentle sleep and -pleasant dreams, where people do not turn night into -day, but rise with the sun and retire soon after -he disappears in the west behind the vast expanse -of the ocean. God created Tahiti for an ideal -island home and not as a place for get-rich-quick -methods, speculation and bitter competition for -business, for</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Where wealth and freedom reign, contentment fails,</p> -<p>And <em>honor lacks</em> where commerce long prevails.</p> -<p>GOLDSMITH.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Tahiti's fabulous wealth consists in its -inexhaustible soil and the perennial warm, stimulating -breath of the tropic sun. It is the island of -never-fading verdure and vigorous and -never-ceasing vegetation. The fertile soil, the abundant -rainfall throughout the year, the warm sunshine -and the equable climate are most conducive to -plant-life and here these conditions are so -harmonious that there can be no failure of crops in -the Lord's plantation. There never has been a -famine in Tahiti, and there never will be, -provided the government protects the magnificent -mountain forests—nature's system of irrigation. -Tahiti's food-supply is select and never-failing, -and is furnished man with the least possible -exertion on his part. The bounteous provisions -nature has made here for the abode of man are -a marvel to the visitor and after he has once -seen them and has become familiar with them he -can not escape the conclusion that he is in</p> -<blockquote> -<p>A land flowing with milk and honey.</p> -<p>JEREMIAH xxxii:22.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The food products and fruits grown in the -forests without the toil of man are admirably -adapted for the climatic conditions, being -laxative and cooling, and undoubtedly account for the -excellent health of the natives before the invasion -of the island by the Europeans. The island was -destined for the natives, and the natives were -suited to the island.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Man's rich with little, were his judgment true;</p> -<p>Nature is frugal, and her wants are few;</p> -<p>These few wants answer'd, bring sincere delights;</p> -<p>But fools create themselves new appetites.</p> -<p>YOUNG.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Content with what the sea and forest provided -for them, these children of Nature lived a happy -life, free from care, free from morbid desires -for wealth or fame.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>O blissful poverty!</p> -<p>Nature, too partial, to thy lot assigns</p> -<p>Health, freedom, innocence, and downy peace, —</p> -<p>Her real goods, — and only mocks the great</p> -<p>With empty pageantries.</p> -<p>FENTON.</p> -<p>No sullen discontent nor anxious care.</p> -<p>E'en though brought thither, could inhabit there.</p> -<p>DRYDEN.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The Tahitian people, before they tasted the -questionable advantages of European civilization, -had much in common and lived happily in the -full enjoyment of Nature's varied and bountiful -gifts. Tribal life was family life, and public -affairs were managed to suit the wants of the -people, and if any one in power failed in his -duties, the people took the law in their own hands -and corrected the evil, usually without bloodshed. -If the people were not prosperous according to -our ideas of life, they were at least happy, and</p> -<blockquote> -<p>We must distinguish between felicity and prosperity; -for prosperity leads often to ambition, and ambition to -disappointment.</p> -<p>LANDOR.</p> -</blockquote> -</div> -<div class="section" id="tahiti-s-natural-bread-supply"> -<h1>TAHITI'S NATURAL BREAD SUPPLY</h1> -<p>The Tahitians have no corn or grain of any -kind out of which to make bread. They -found in the forests excellent substitutes for -bread, and more healthful for that climate, in -the form of breadfruit, wild plantain and tubers -rich in starch. This is the kind of bread they have -been eating for centuries, and which they prefer -to our bread to-day. When the island was -densely populated and the demand on nature's -resources exceeded the supply, the natives had to -plant trees, roots and tubers in vacant spaces in -the forest, high up on the mountainsides, where -they grew luxuriantly without any or little care, -and by these trifling efforts on the part of man -the food-supply kept pace with the increase of -the population. Trees and plants distributed in -this manner found a permanent home in the new -places provided for them, and have since -multiplied, and thus increased greatly the annual yield. -Evidences of dissemination of bread and -fruit-yielding trees and plants by the intervention of -man are apparent to-day throughout the island -by the presence of cocoa-palms, breadfruit and -other fruit trees, and plantains, in localities where -nature could not plant them, in places formerly -inhabited but abandoned long ago when the -population became so rapidly decimated by the -virulent diseases introduced into the island by the -Europeans. To-day the fruit and fruit-supply is -so abundant that it is within easy reach of every -family and can be had without money and -without labor. We will consider here a few of the -most important substitutes for bread on which -the Tahitians largely subsist:</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image33"> -<img alt="FRUIT VENDER" src="images/Image33.jpg" style="width: 339.5px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">TAHITIAN FRUIT VENDER</p> -</div> -<p><em>Breadfruit</em>.—Breadfruit is the most important -article of food of the Tahitians. It is the fruit -of the breadfruit tree <em>Arfocarpus incisiva</em> -(Linné), a tree of the natural order, -<em>Artocarpaceæ</em>, a native of the islands of the Pacific -Ocean and of the Indian Archipelago. This -fruit is one of the most important gifts of nature -to the inhabitants of the tropics, serving as the -principal part of their food, the inner tough bark -of the tree furnishing a good material for native -cloth, while the trunk of the tree is used as a -material for canoes. The exudation issuing from -cuts made into the stem, a resinous substance, is -in use for closing the seams of canoes. Several -varieties of breadfruit trees are to be found in -Tahiti, differing in the structure of their leaves -and in the size and time of ripening of the fruit, -so that ripe breadfruit is obtainable more or less -abundantly throughout the year. The foliage of -this tree is the greenest of all green, and it is -this deep green which distinguished this tree at -once from its neighbors. The male flowers are -in catkins, with a two-leaved perianth and one -stamen; the female flowers are nude. The leaves -are large, pinnatifid, frequently twelve to eighteen -inches long, smooth and glossy on their upper -surface. The much branched tree attains a height -of twenty to fifty feet. The fruit is a <em>sorosis</em>, -a compound or aggregate the size of a child's -head, round or slightly oblong, light green, fleshy -and tuberculated on the surface. The rind is -thick, and marked with small square or -lozenge-shaped divisions, each having a small elevation -in the middle. The fruit hangs by a short, thick -stalk from the small branches, singly or in -clusters of two or three together. It contains a white, -somewhat fibrous pulp, which when ripe becomes -juicy and yellow, but has then a rotten taste. -The fruit is gathered for use before it is ripe, and -the pulp is then white and mealy, of the -consistence of fresh bread. The fruit is prepared in -many ways for food, roasted on hot coals, boiled -or baked, or converted by the experienced native -cook into complicated dainty dishes. The -common practice in Tahiti is to cut each fruit into -three or four pieces and take out the core; then to -place heated stones in the bottom of a hole dug -in the ground; to cover them with green leaves, -and upon this place a layer of the fruit, then -stones, leaves and fruit alternately, till the hole -is nearly filled, when leaves and earth to the -depth of several inches are spread over all. In -half an hour the breadfruit is ready; the outsides -are, in general, nicely browned, and the inner -part presents a white or yellowish cellular -substance. Breadfruit prepared in this manner and -by other methods of cooking is very palatable, as -I can speak from my own experience, slightly -astringent and highly nutritious, a most excellent -dietetic article for the tropics. The tree is very -prolific, producing two and sometimes three crops -a year. When once this tree has gained a firm -foothold in a soil it cherishes, and in a climate it -enjoys, it exhibits a tenacity to reproduce itself -to an extent often beyond desirable limits. Of -this Captain Cook writes:</p> -<blockquote> -I have inquired very carefully into their manner -of cultivating the breadfruit tree; but was always -answered that they never plant it. The breadfruit tree -plants itself, as it springs from the roots of the old -ones, so that the natives are often under the necessity -of preventing its progress to make room for trees of -other sorts to afford some variety in their food.</blockquote> -<p>The timber is soft and light, of a rich yellow -color, and assumes when exposed to the air the -appearance of mahogany.</p> -<p><em>Manioc</em>.—Manioc is another important article -of food in Tahiti and likewise serves as an -excellent substitute for baker's bread. It is the large, -fleshy root of <em>Manihot utilissima</em>, a large, -half-shrubby plant of the natural order <em>Euphorhiaceæ</em>, -a native of tropical America, and much cultivated -in Tahiti as an article of food. In this island the -plant has run wild in some of the ravines formerly -inhabited. The plant grows in a bushy form, -with stems usually six to eight feet high, but -sometimes much higher. The stems are brittle, -white, and have a very large pith; the branches -are crooked. The leaves are near the ends of the -branches, large, deeply seven-parted, smooth and -deep green. The roots are very large, -turnip-like, sometimes weighing thirty pounds, from -three to eight growing in a cluster, usually from -twelve to twenty-four inches in length. They -contain an acrid, milky juice in common with other -parts of the plant, so poisonous as to cause death -in a few minutes; but as the toxic effect is owing -to the presence of hydrocyanic acid, which is -quickly removed by heat, the juice, inspissated -by boiling, forms the excellent sauce called -<em>casareep</em>; and fermented with molasses it yields -an intoxicating beverage called <em>onycou</em>; whilst -the root, grated, dried on hot metal plates and -roughly powdered, becomes an article of food. -It is made into thin plates which are formed into -cakes, not by mixing with water, but by the action -of heat, softening and agglutinating the particles -of starch. The powdered root prepared in this -manner is an easily digestible and nutritious -article of farinaceous food. The root is largely -made use of in the manufacture of starch and is -exported from Tahiti for this purpose to a -considerable extent. The starch made from this -root is also known as Brazilian arrowroot, and -from it tapioca is made. Manioc is propagated -by cuttings of the stem, and is of rapid growth, -attaining maturity in six months.</p> -<p><em>Sweet Cassava</em>.—Sweet cassava is the root of -<em>Manihot Aipi</em>, a woody plant indigenous to -tropical South America, growing in great abundance -in the dense forest of the mountain valleys of -Tahiti. The plant grows to a height of several -feet and has large long leaves growing from the -foot of the stem. The root is reddish and -nontoxic; it can therefore be used as a culinary -esculent, without any further preparation than -boiling, while its starch can also be converted -into tapioca. The <em>Aipi</em> has tough, woody fibres, -extending along the axis of the tubers, while -generally the roots of the manioc (bitter cassava) -are free from this central woody substance.</p> -<p><em>Arrowroot</em> or <em>Arru Root</em>.—The commercial -arrowroot is prepared from different -starch-yielding roots, but the bulb of the <em>Maranta -marantaceæ</em> produces more starch and of a better -quality than any of the others. It is a native of -the West Indies and South America, and is -cultivated quite extensively in Tahiti. Many little -patches of this plant may be seen along the road -from Papeete to Papara, where the lowland soil -is well adapted for its cultivation. The -starch-producing plant which is cultivated most -extensively in Tahiti and other South Sea Islands is -the <em>Tacca pinnatifolia</em>. This perennial plant will -even thrive well in the sandy soil near the shore. -The stalk, with terminal spreading pinnatifid -leaves, is from two to three feet high and the root -is a tuber about the size of a small potato. The -tacca starch is much valued in medicine, and is -particularly used in the treatment of inflammatory -affections of the gastro-intestinal canal.</p> -<p><em>Taro or Tara</em>.—Taro is another very -important food-product of Tahiti, as well as other -islands of the Pacific, notably the Hawaiian -Islands. It is the root of <em>Colocasia macrorhiza</em>, -a plant of the natural order <em>Araceæ</em>, of the same -genus with <em>cocoa</em>. The plant thrives best in low, -marshy places. In all of the South Sea Islands -it is very extensively cultivated for its roots, which -constitute in these islands a staple article of food, -excellent substitutes for potatoes and bread. The -roots are very large, from twelve to sixteen -inches in length, and as much in circumference. -They are washed in cold water to take away their -acridity, which is such as to cause excoriation of -the mouth and palate. The roots are cooked in -the same way as the breadfruit, the rind being -first scraped off. Another very common way of -eating taro is in the form of <em>poi</em>. This method -of preparing the root was known to the Tahitians -when Captain Cook visited the island. He -compared <em>poi</em> with "sour pudding." It requires some -skill to make <em>poi</em>. The root, finely grated, is -allowed to ferment over night. It tastes sour and -is a refreshing, delicate and nutritious dish, when -served ice-cold. The plant has no stalk; the -petioled heart-shaped leaves spring from the root. -The flower is in the form of a spathe. The boiled -leaves can be used as a substitute for spinach.</p> -<p><em>Wild Plantain</em>.—The wild plantain furnishes -its liberal share of food-supply for the -Tahitians. It is a tree-like, perennial herb (<em>Musa -paradisiaca</em>) with immense leaves and large -clusters of the fruits. In its appearance it -resembles very closely the banana, but differs from -it as the hands and fingers of the bunches of fruit -are turned in the opposite direction. The fruit is -long and somewhat cylindrical, slightly curved, -and, when ripe, soft, fleshy and covered with a -thick but tender yellowish skin. This plant is -indigenous to Tahiti and is found in abundance in -the forests. The fruit is cooked or baked and -is keenly relished by the natives.</p> -<p>All of the articles of food I have referred to -above are easily digested, palatable and nutritious, -and for the Tahiti climate more healthful than -bread and potatoes, on which the masses of -people living in colder climates subsist to a large -extent. I attribute the comparative immunity of -the South Sea Islanders from attacks of -appendicitis principally to their diet, which is laxative, -easily digested and not liable to cause -fermentation in the gastro-intestinal canal. -Appendicitis does occur in these islands, but this disease -is extremely rare as compared with the frequency -with which it is met in Europe, and more -especially in the United States. The Americans -are the most injudicious and reckless eaters in -the world, which goes far in explaining the -prevalence of gastric and intestinal disorders -among our people.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image34"> -<img alt="PREPARING BREADFRUIT" src="images/Image34.jpg" style="width: 348.5px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">PREPARING BREADFRUIT</p> -</div> -</div> -<div class="section" id="the-cocoanut-the-meat-of-the-tahitians"> -<h1>THE COCOANUT, THE MEAT OF THE TAHITIANS</h1> -<p>It is fortunate that the inhabitants of the -tropics have no special liking for a meat diet, -as the free indulgence in meat could not fail in -resulting detrimentally to the health of the -inhabitants. The continuously high temperature -begets indolence, and indolence tends to diminish -secretion and excretion, conditions incompatible -with a habitual consumption of meat. Nature -has established fixed rules concerning the manner -of living in the tropics. She deprives man of the -appetite for meat and other equally heavy articles -of food, and supplies him with nourishment -adapted for the climate. It is under such climatic -conditions that we are made to realize that</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The more we deny ourselves, the more the gods -supply our wants.</p> -<p>HORATIUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>and</p> -<blockquote> -<p>We can not use the mind aright when the body is -filled with excess of food.</p> -<p>CICERO.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>For the preservation of health in the tropics, -it is necessary that the food should be laxative, -cooling, easy of digestion and nutritious. Fish -and fruit of various kinds meet these -requirements. From observations and experience, the -ignorant natives have made a wise selection of -what is best for them to eat, and know what to -avoid. High living brings its dire results in -temperate and cold climates, but any one -indulging in it in the tropics will curtail his life, as it -can not fail to be productive, in a short time, of -organic changes of a degenerative type in -important internal organs, which soon begin to -menace life and never fail in diminishing the vital -resistance against acute diseases. Luxury in the -tropics in the way of eating and drinking is a -dangerous experiment, and it is well to remember, -especially when living in a hot climate, that</p> -<blockquote> -<p>By degrees man passes to the enjoyments of a vicious -life, porticoes, baths and elegant banquets; this by the -ignorant was called a civilized mode of living, though -in reality it was only a form of luxury.</p> -<p>TACTICUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>No such mistakes are made by the natives of -Tahiti as long as they remain true to their -ancient manner of living. With few exceptions, -indeed, they lack the means of imitating the -foreigners in living a life of luxury. Any native -who departs too far from the simple, natural life -of his ancestors will pay dearly for the doubtful -pleasures of a life of luxury. The average native, -fortunately, has no such inclinations; he is -satisfied to live the simple, natural life his forefathers -led, and he follows the scriptural advice.</p> -<blockquote> -And having food and raiment, let us be therewith -content. I. Timothy vi:8.</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image35"> -<img alt="SAPODILLA" src="images/Image35.jpg" style="width: 391.5px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">SAPODILLA</p> -</div> -<p>Nature has provided for the South Sea -Islanders something better than beef and mutton -in the form of meat—fish and cocoanut. Fish -are very abundant all around the coast of Tahiti, -and the lagoons, where the fishing is mostly done, -are as quiet as inland lakes. More than two -hundred varieties of fish have been found in -these waters. But the real and best meat for the -Tahitians is the cocoanut. The meat of this -wonderful nut contains a large per cent, of oil, -which supplies the system with all the fatty -material it requires, and for the tropic climate -this bland, nutritious vegetable oil is far superior -to any animal fats. We will give here the -Cocoa-palm the liberal space it so well deserves:</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="the-cocoa-palm"> -<h1>THE COCOA-PALM</h1> -<blockquote> -<p>Through groves of palm</p> -<p>Sigh gales of balm,</p> -<p>Fire-flies on the air are wheeling;</p> -<p>While through the gloom</p> -<p>Comes soft perfume,</p> -<p>The distant beds of flowers revealing.</p> -<p>SIR WALTER SCOTT.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The cocoa-palm is the queen of the forests of -the South Sea Islands. The tall, slender, -branchless, silvery stem and fronded crown of this -graceful tree distinguish it at once from all its -neighbors and indicate the nobility of its race. -The great clusters of golden fruit of giant size, -partially obscured by the drooping leaves and -clinging to the end of the stem, supply the natives -with the necessities of life. The cocoa-palm is -the greatest benefactor of the inhabitants of the -tropics.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>It is meat, drink and cloth to us.</p> -<p>RABELAIS.</p> -<p>Fruits of palm-tree, pleasantest to thirst</p> -<p>And hunger both.</p> -<p>MILTON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>This noble tree grows and fructifies where hard -manual labor is incompatible with the climate, in -islands and countries where the natives have to -rely largely on the bounteous resources of nature -for food and protection. The burning shores of -India and the islands of the South Pacific are -the natural homes of the cocoa-palm. It has a -special predilection for the sandy beach of Tahiti -and the innumerable atoll islands near to and far -from this gem of the South Seas. The giant nuts -often drop directly into the sea and are carried -away by waves and currents from their native -soil to strange islands, where they are cast upon -the sandy shore, to sprout and prosper for the -benefit of other native or visiting tribes. By this -manner of dissemination, all of these islands have -become encircled by a lofty colonnade of this -queen of the tropics.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Beautiful isles! beneath the sunset skies</p> -<p>Tall silver shafted palm-trees rise between</p> -<p>Tall orange trees that shade</p> -<p>The living colonnade:</p> -<p>Alas! how sad, how sickening is the scene</p> -<p>That were ye at my side would be a paradise.</p> -<p>MARIA BROOKS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The cocoa-palm (<em>Cocos nucifera</em>), is a native -of the Indian coasts and the South Sea Islands. -It belongs to a genus of palms having pinnate -leaves or fronds, and male and female flowers on -the same tree, the latter at the base of each spadix. -It is seldom found at any considerable distance -from the seacoast, except where it has been -introduced by man, and generally thrives best -near the very edge of the sea. In Tahiti isolated -cocoa-palms are found on the lofty hilltops, -projecting, with their proud crowns of pale green -leaves, far above the level of the sea of the dense -forest and impenetrable jungles. This -transplantation from shore to the sides and summits of -the foot-hills had its beginning before the -discovery of the island, when the overpopulation made -it necessary to provide for a more abundant -food-supply. There it has prospered and multiplied -since without the further aid of man, yielding its -rich harvests of fruit with unfailing regularity. -The frightful reduction in the number of -inhabitants since the white man set his foot on the -island has made this additional food-supply -superfluous, as the palms within easier reach in -the lowlands along the shore more than meet the -present demands.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image36"> -<img alt="COPRA ESTABLISHMENT" src="images/Image36.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 387.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">COPRA ESTABLISHMENT</p> -</div> -<p>The cocoa-palm is a proud but virtuous tree. -Its dense cluster of delicate roots does not -encroach upon the territory of other trees, but claims -only a very modest circular patch of soil from -which to abstract the nourishment for the -unselfish, philanthropic tree. The base of the stem -is wide and usually inclined, but a few feet -from the ground becomes straight and cylindrical, -with nearly the same diameter from base to -crown. The curve of the stem is caused by the -effects of the prevailing winds on the yielding, -slender stem of the youthful tree, but with -increasing growth and strength, it rises column-like -into the air, balancing its fruit-laden massive -crown in uncompromising opposition to the -invisible aerial force. It is only in localities -exposed to the full power of strong and -persistent trade-winds that the full-grown trees lean -in the same direction in obedience to the -unrelenting common deforming cause. The -full-grown tree is, on an average, two feet in diameter, -and from sixty to one hundred feet high, with -many rings marking the places of former leaves, -and having, at its summit, a crown of from -sixteen to twenty leaves, which generally droop, and -are from twelve to twenty feet in length. These -giant leaves furnish an excellent material for -thatched roofs, and in case of need, a few leaves, -properly placed, will make a comfortable, -waterproof tent. The fruit grows in short racemes, -which bear, in favorable situations, from five to -fifteen nuts; and ten or twelve of these racemes, -in different stages of fructification, may be seen -at once on a tree, about eighty or one hundred -nuts being its ordinary annual product. For the -purpose of answering the requirements of -primitive man, the Creator has ordained that this tree -shall yield a continuous harvest from one end of -the year to the other. Flowers and fruit in all -stages of ripening grace the crown at all times -of the year. The young cocoanut contains the -delicious, cooling milk, and the soft pulp, a -nourishing article of food. The mature nut is -an excellent substitute for meat, as the kernel -contains more than seventy per cent, of a fixed, -bland, nutritious oil. The tree bears fruit in from -seven to eight years from the time of planting, -and its lifetime is from seventy to eighty years. -Its greatest ambition during youth is to reach the -clouds and equal its oldest neighbors in height. -Young trees, with a stem less than four inches in -diameter, rival their veteran neighbors in height, -devoting their future growth to the increase in -the dimension and strength of the stem, and their -vital vigor to the bearing of its perennial, -unfailing yield of fruit for the benefit of man and -beast. The stem, when young, contains a central -part which is sweet and edible, but when old, -this is a mass of hard fibre. The terminal bud -(palm cabbage) is esteemed a delicacy when -boiled or stewed or raw in the form of a -vegetable salad. The sweet sap (toddy) of the -cocoa-palm, as of some other palms, is an -esteemed beverage in tropic countries, either in its -natural state, or after fermentation, which takes -place in a few hours; and, from the fermented -sap (palm wine), a strong alcoholic liquor -(<em>arrack</em>), is obtained by distillation. The root of -the cocoa-palm possesses narcotic properties. -Every part of this wonderful tree is utilized by -the untutored inhabitants of the tropics. The -dried leaves are much used for the thatch, and -for many other purposes, as the making of mats, -screens, baskets, etc., by plaiting the leaflets. -The strong midribs of the leaves supply the -natives with oars. The wood of the lower part -of the trunk is very hard, and takes a beautiful -polish. The fibrous centre of old stems is made -into salad. By far the most important fibrous -part of the cocoa-palm is the coir, the fibre of the -husk of the imperfectly ripened nut. The -sun-dried husk of the ripe nut is used for fuel, and -also, when cut across, for polishing furniture, -scrubbing floors, etc. The shell of the nut is -made into cups, goblets, ladles, etc., and these -household articles are often finely polished and -elaborately ornamented by carving. This, the -most generous of all trees, from the time of its -birth until it yields to the ravages of time, serves -man in hundreds of different ways, furnishing -him with food and drink, clothing, -building-material, fuel, medicine, most exquisite delicacies, -wine, spirits and many articles of comfort and -even of luxury. What other tree but the -cocoa-palm could have been in the mind of Milton when -he wrote:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>In heav'n the trees</p> -<p>Of life ambrosial fruitage bear, and vines</p> -<p>Yield nectar.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image37"> -<img alt="GOVERNMENT WHARF" src="images/Image37.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 338.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">GOVERNMENT WHARF–PAPEETE (Waiting for the steamer <em>Mariposa</em>)</p> -</div> -<p>The cocoa-palm is a peaceful, modest, virtuous -tree. It prefers its own kin, but is charitable to -its neighbors, irrespective of race. It towers -far above the sea of less favored trees, which find -in its shade protection against the burning rays -of the tropic sun and the fury of the trade-winds. -Proudly it stands guard at the shores of the -coral-girt islands of the South Pacific, waving its -lofty, fruit-laden crown, responding alike to the -cool, refreshing land breezes and the humid -trade-winds in the balmy air of the tropics. -Peaceful and lovely is a forest of palms, where</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Leaves live only to enjoy love, and throughout the -forest every tree is luxuriating in affectionate embrace; -palm, as it nods to palm, joins in mutual love; the -poplar sighs for the poplar; plane whispers to plane, -and alder to alder.</p> -<p>CLAUDIANUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The sight of a forest of cocoa-palms from a -distance is imposing, a walk through it full of -enchantment. Nowhere does this noble tree -appear to better advantage than in Tahiti. This, -the most favored of all islands, is engirdled by an -almost unbroken belt of palm-forest, stretching -from the very verge of the ocean to the base of -the foot-hills, with the towering, tree-clad -mountains for a background; a forest planted by the -invisible hand of Nature, a forest cared for by -Nature, a forest which produces nearly all of the -necessities of life for the natives from day to -day, and year to year, with unfailing regularity. -Enter this forest and the eye feasts on a scene -which neither the pen of the most skilled -naturalist nor the brush of the ablest landscape artist -can reproduce with anything that would do -justice to nature's inexhaustible resources and -artistic designs. Such a scene must be gazed -upon to be appreciated. Between the colonnade of -symmetrical silvery stems and crowns of feathery -fronds, inlaid with the ponderous golden fruit, -the eye catches glimpses of the blue, placid ocean, -the foam-crested breakers, of the still more -beautifully blue dome of the sky, the deep green -carpet of the unbroken tropic forest thrown over -the mountainsides, or the naked, rugged, brown -peaks basking in the sunlight, and on all sides -flowers of various hues and most delicate tints. -Surely,</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Who can paint</p> -<p>Like Nature? Can imagination boast.</p> -<p>Amid its gay creation, hues like hers,</p> -<p>Or can it mix them with that matchless skill.</p> -<p>And lose them in each other, as appears</p> -<p>In every bud that blows?</p> -<p>THOMSON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Add to the pleasures flashed upon the mind by -the ravished eye, the perfumed, soothing air of -the tropics, the sweet sounds of the aeolian harp -as the gentle breeze strikes its well-timed chords -in the fronded crowns of the palms overhead, the -bubbling of the ripples of the near-by ocean as -they kiss the sandy rim of the island shore, and -the clashes of the breakers as they strike with -unerring regularity the coral reef, the outer wall of -the calm lagoon, and your soul will be in a mood -to join the poet in singing the praises of nature:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>O Nature!</p> -<p>Enrich me with knowledge of thy works:</p> -<p>Snatch me to heaven!</p> -<p>THOMSON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Queen of the tropic isles, guardian of their -sun-kissed strands, friend of their dusky, simple -children of Nature! Continue in the future as -you have done in the past, to dispense your work -of generosity and unselfish charity, to sustain and -protect the life of man and beast in a climate you -love and revere, a climate adverse for man to -earn his daily bread by the sweat of his brow! -I have seen your charms in your favorite -island-abode and studied with interest your innumerable -deeds of generosity, your full storehouse for the -urgent needs of man and your safe refuge for -the inhabitants of the air. Had Whittier visited -the island Paradise, your native home, he would -have written in the positive in the first stanza, -when he framed that beautiful verse:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>I know not where His islands lift</p> -<p>Their fronded palms in air;</p> -<p>I only know I can not drift</p> -<p>Beyond His love and care!</p> -</blockquote> -<p>There is no other country and no other island -in the world that has such a variety of -indigenous fruit trees as Tahiti. Add to these trees -that have furnished the natives with an -abundance of fruit for centuries, the fruit trees that -have been introduced since the island was -discovered, and many of which flourish now in a -wild state in the forests, and it will give some -idea concerning the wealth of fruit to be found in -the forests of Tahiti. Most of the inland -habitations away from the coast have been abandoned -long ago, and in all these places, in the valleys -and high up on the mountainsides, many kinds -of exogenous fruit trees, planted by former -generations, have gained a permanent foothold. Here -they multiply, blossom, ripen their fruit, and all -the islanders have to do is to gather the annual -crop. Here delicious little thin-skinned oranges -grow, and the finest lemons and limes can be had -for the gathering. The poor find here</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Fruits of all kinds in coat</p> -<p>Rough or smooth rind, or bearded husk or shell,</p> -<p>She gathers tribute large, and on the board</p> -<p>Heaps with unsparing hand.</p> -<p>MILTON.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image38"> -<img alt="CORNER IN PAPEETE" src="images/Image38.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 408.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">CORNER IN PAPEETE</p> -</div> -<p>Nothing reminds one more of Tahiti being the -forbidden Garden of Eden, than the abundance of -fruit that grows in the forests without the -intervention of man. Some kind of fruit can be found -during all seasons of the year, and</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Small store will serve, where store</p> -<p>All seasons, ripe for use, hangs on the stalk.</p> -<p>MILTON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>It is here not as in most countries where</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The poor inhabitant beholds in vain</p> -<p>The redd'ning orange and the swelling grain.</p> -<p>ADDISON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>as the poorest of the poor have access to Nature's -orchard and can fill their palm-leaf baskets with -the choicest fruits. The Tahitian</p> -<blockquote> -<p>He feeds on fruits, which of their own accord</p> -<p>The willing ground and laden tree afford.</p> -<p>DRYDEN.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>This mingling, in the most friendly manner, of -the old forest trees with familiar fruit trees -introduced from distant lands and laden with -golden fruit, is a most beautiful sight. The fruit -trees stand their ground even against the most -aggressive shrubs, and it is often no easy matter -to reach the ripe hiding fruit in the dense -network of branches thrown around and between the -branches of the imprisoned tree. What a -blessing these acid fruits are to the natives, sweltering -under the rays of the tropic sun! How easy it -is for them to make a cooling, refreshing drink! -Take a young cocoanut, open it at one end, and -add to its milk the juice of a lime or a lemon, and -the healthiest and most refreshing drink is made.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Bear me, Pomona! to thy citron groves,</p> -<p>To where the lemon and the piercing lime,</p> -<p>With the deep orange glowing through the green,</p> -<p>Their lighter glories lend.</p> -<p>THOMSON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>It is claimed that the large apple family is the -descendant of the Siberian crab-apple, modified -by climate, soil and grafting. This statement -appears to me incorrect, as I have seen a tree in -the Hawaiian forests which bears a real sweet -apple which in shape and taste has a strong -resemblance to the apples of our orchards. The -tree is from twenty to thirty feet in height, -slender and few branched. The same tree is -found in the forests of Tahiti, and its fruit is -much sought after by the natives. It would be -difficult to connect the wild apple tree of the -South Sea Islands with the Siberian crab-apple, -to which it bears no resemblance, either in the -appearance of the tree or its fruit. Let us now -consider a few of the fruit trees which adorn and -enrich the forests of Tahiti:</p> -<p><em>Alligator Pear</em>, or <em>Avocado</em>.—This is the most -delicate and luscious of all the fruit-products of -the Tahitian forests, where it is found in its wild -state in great abundance. It is the fruit of the -<em>Persea gratissima</em>, a tree belonging to the natural -order <em>Lauraceæ</em>, an evergreen tree of the tropic -regions of America and the South Sea Islands. -It attains a height of from thirty to seventy feet, -with a slender stem and dome-like, leafy top. -The branches, like the stem, are slender, and -ascend on quite an acute angle from their base. -The leaves resemble those of the laurel. The -flowers are small, and are produced toward the -extremities of the branches. The fruit is a drupe, -but in size and shape resembles a large pear. -The rind is green, thin, and somewhat rough on -the outside. In the center of the pulp is a large, -heart-shaped kernel, wrapped in a thin, -paper-like membrane. The pulp is green or yellowish, -not very sweet, but of a delicious taste and -exiquisite flavor, and contains about eight per cent, -of a greenish fixed oil. The way to eat this -delicious fruit is to cut it in two lengthwise, -remove the kernel, season with sweet oil, -vinegar, salt and pepper, and eat with a teaspoon. -In the form of a salad it is one of the daintiest -of all dishes. The softness of the pulp and the -richness in oil have led the French to call this -fruit "Vegetable butter." The seeds of the -alligator pear have come into medical use at the -instance of Dr. Froehlig, and particularly through -the efforts of Park, Davis & Co., -a manufacturing firm. The alligator pear is a very perishable -fruit, which accounts for its scarcity and -fabulous price in our markets.</p> -<p><em>Pawpaw or Papaya</em> is the fruit of the <em>Carica -Papaya</em>, natural order <em>Papayaceæ</em>. It is an -exceedingly graceful, branchless little tree, which -grows to the height of from ten to twenty feet -and is of short vitality. Its natural home is -in South America and the islands of the Pacific. -The cylindrical stem is grayish white, roughened -in circles where the previous whorls of leaves -had their attachment. The leaves are from -twenty to thirty inches long and are arranged -in the form of a whorl at the very top of the stem, -where also the fruit grows, close to the stem. -The fruit when ripe is light yellow, very similar -to a small melon, and with a somewhat similar -flavor. The skin is very thin and the pulp -exceedingly soft, hence a very perishable fruit. -The seeds are numerous, round and black, and -when chewed have, in a high degree, the -pungency of cresses. It requires time to acquire a -taste for this healthy, very digestible tropical -fruit, but when once developed, it is keenly -relished. It is eaten either raw or boiled. It -possesses digestive properties of considerable -value, which have been utilized in the preparation -of a vegetable pepsin. The acrid, milky sap of -the tree or the juice of the fruit much diluted -with water, renders any tough meat washed with -it, tender for cooking purposes, by separating -the muscular fibres (Dr. Holder). It is said -even the exhalations from the tree have this -property; and meats, fowls, etc., are hung among -its leaves to prepare them for cooking. The tree -is of very rapid growth, bears fruit all the year -and is very prolific.</p> -<p><em>Mango</em> is the fruit of <em>Mangifera Indica</em>. It -is a stately, broad-branching, very shady tree, -from thirty to forty feet in height, belonging to -the natural order <em>Anacardiaceæ</em>. The stem is -short, from eight to ten feet, when it divides -into long, graceful branches, with an -impenetrable foliage, a fine protection against the -rain and the scorching rays of the sun. The -bark is almost black and somewhat rough. The -leaves are in clusters, lanceolate, entire, alternate, -petioled, smooth, shining, tough, and about -seven inches long, with an agreeable resinous -smell. The flowers are small, reddish white or -yellowish, in large, erect, terminal panicles. The -fruit is kidney-shaped, smooth, greenish yellow, -with or without ruddy cheeks, varying greatly -in size and quality, and containing a large, -flattened stone, which is covered on the outside -with fibrous filaments, largest and most abundant -in the inferior varieties, some of which consist -chiefly of fibre and juice, while the finer ones -have a comparatively solid pulp. The size varies -from that of a large plum to that of a man's -fist. The largest and finest mangoes are found -in Tahiti. The fruit is luscious and agreeably -sweet, with an aromatic flavor and slightly acid -taste. The kernels are nutritious, and have been -cooked for food in times of scarcity. A mango -tree laden with its golden fruit is a pleasing -sight, and reminds one vividly of a Christmas -tree.</p> -<p><em>Lime</em>.—The fruit of <em>Citrus Planchoni, Citrus -Australis Planchon</em>. The lime tree of Tahiti was -undoubtedly introduced from Eastern Australia, -where it is found as a noble tree, fully forty feet -high, or, according to C. Hartmann, even sixty -feet high. In Tahiti the tree is small, and in the -dense jungles hardly exceeds the size of a shrub. -The stem, as well as its numerous slender, -wide-spreading, prickly branches, is very crooked. The -fruit is similar to the lemon, but much smaller -in size, being only about one and one-half inches -in diameter, and almost globular in shape, with a -smooth, green, thin rind and an extremely acid, -pungent juice. For a thirst-quenching drink, -the lime-juice is far preferable to the lemon.</p> -<p><em>Pomegranate</em>.—The fruit of <em>Punica Granatum</em>, -a shrub belonging to the natural order -<em>Granataceæ</em>. This historic and useful shrub grows -luxuriantly and with little or no care, in the fertile, -sun-kissed soil of Tahiti. More than one-half -of the interior of the oval purple fruit consists -of large black seeds. The seedless variety has -evidently never been introduced. The juice is -subacid and very palatable. The flowers are -ornamental, and sometimes are double. The rind -of the fruit and the bark of the roots possess -valuable medicinal properties. Consider for a -moment what nature has done for the support, -comfort and pleasure of the inhabitants of Tahiti, -and we are ready to admit the truth of what the -prince of poets said:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Here is everything advantageous to life.</p> -<p>SHAKESPEARE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>And we can answer with a positive yes the -question proposed by another famous poet, in the -beautiful stanza:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Know'st thou the land where the lemon trees bloom,</p> -<p>Where the gold orange glows in the deep thicket's gloom,</p> -<p>Where a wind ever soft from the blue heaven blows,</p> -<p>And the groves are of laurel and myrtle and rose?</p> -<p>GOETHE.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image39"> -<img alt="A VIEW OF FAUTAHUA VALLEY" src="images/Image39.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 384.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">A VIEW OF FAUTAHUA VALLEY</p> -</div> -</div> -<div class="section" id="the-forests-of-tahiti"> -<h1>THE FORESTS OF TAHITI</h1> -<p>The primeval forests are the pride of Tahiti. -Indirectly they are the wealth of the little island. -They have been spared the ravages of the -woodman's ax. The forests have been kind to the -natives and the natives to the forests. The -avaricious lumberman, the greatest enemy of public -wealth and general prosperity, has fortunately -so far not had a design on the magnificent -forests of Tahiti, and may he never be permitted to -carry on his work of destruction in this island -paradise! The giant trees, growing the finest and most -valuable timber, hold out much inducement to -get-rich-quick men, but they have been destined -for a better purpose; they, with the more -menial companions, the humble, lowly shrubs, -attract the clouds, determine rain, retain -moisture and fill the river-beds, creeks and rivulets -with the purest water. The forests extend from -the shore to near the highest mountain-peaks, -making up one great green sea of foliage, -interrupted here and there by the summits of hills, -ridges, and bare spots of brown, volcanic earth, -where vegetation of any kind has been forbidden -to take a foothold. Along and near the coast -are the charming groves of cocoa-palms, where -the ordinary trees, out of deference to the queen -of the tropic forests, are few and modest in their -ambition to compete with her in height. Here -the guava shrub, groaning under the weight of -its golden fruit, adds to the beauty of the grove. -A walk through such a grove, with glimpses of -the blue ocean and the verdant tree-clad hills -and mountains, will bring the conviction that</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The groves were God's first temples.</p> -<p>BRYANT.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Raising the eyes and looking up the steep -incline of the mountains clothed in perennial -verdure by a dense virgin forest, we are almost -instinctively reminded of the beautiful lines of -Dryden:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>There stood a forest on the mountain's brow, which</p> -<p>overlook'd the shady plains below;</p> -<p>No sounding axe presumed these trees to bite, coeval</p> -<p>with the world; a venerable sight.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The forest in the tropics has no rest. From -one end of the year to the other, it appears the -same. There is no general disrobing at the -bidding of an uncompromising, stern winter. -There are no arctic chills to suffer and no burden -of snow to brave. Most of the trees are -evergreen, and the few that imitate the example of -their kind in the North by an annual change of -their leaves, perform this task almost -imperceptibly. There are no bald crowns and bare -arms. Spring, summer and autumn mingle -throughout the year; blossoming and ripe fruits -go hand in hand in the same tree or neighboring -trees. A walk through a tropic forest is no easy -thing, owing to the dense interlacing and often -prickly undergrowth, but the visitor is amply -rewarded for his efforts. Every step brings new -revelations, new surprises. Nowhere are there -any signs of deforestation, either by fire or the -cruel, thoughtless hand of man. You are in a -forest</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Where the rude ax, with heaved stroke,</p> -<p>Was never heard the nymphs to daunt,</p> -<p>Or frown them from their hallow'd haunts.</p> -<p>MILTON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The biggest trees are in the shaded, rich -ravines and far up on the mountainside or -hill-tops. They seem to be conscious of their -superiority and power in the selection of their abode. -Look at one of these monsters, with wide-spread, -giant branches and impenetrable foliage, and</p> -<blockquote> -<p>View well this tree, the queen of all the grove;</p> -<p>How vast her bole, how wide her arms are spread.</p> -<p>How high above the rest she shoots her head!</p> -<p>DRYDEN.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image40"> -<img alt="AVENUE OF FAUTAHUA" src="images/Image40.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 383.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">AVENUE OF FAUTAHUA</p> -</div> -<p>But in these forests, so full of life and -perpetual activity, indications of death are seen here -and there. The numerous climbing vines which, -serpent-like, creep up and embrace in their -deathly grasp some young, vigorous tree, have -no good intentions for their patient, helpless host. -The struggle may last for years, but the ultimate -result is sure. The cruelty of the unwelcome -intruder increases with his age and, strength. The -fight for life becomes more and more intense. -The plant-serpent throttles its victim more and -more, penetrates its body with its additional -roots, and sucks the very life-blood from its -vitals. What promised to become the giant of -the forest sickens and succumbs to a slow, -lingering, ignominious death. The victory is -complete and he now stands with</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Pithless arms, like a wither'd vine,</p> -<p>That droops his sapless branches to the ground.</p> -<p>SHAKESPEARE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The ruthless climber has accomplished its -purpose and it has become so strong and has -made such intricate interlacements with -adjoining trees that it holds the corpse erect in its cold -embrace for an indefinite period of time, until -some strong wind lays low forever the victor -with the vanquished.</p> -<p>Like everywhere else where the soil is fertile -and other conditions for plant-growth favorable, -so in the Tahitian forest, rank plant-life prospers. -The lantana (Lantana Crocca) a shrubby plant -two to four feet high, with beautiful little yellow -and purple flowers arranged in umbels, has -overrun the whole island. It is here, as in some of the -other islands of the Pacific, the most aggressive -and most troublesome of all weeds, and it is -this plant which interferes with a more -abundant growth of grass and consequently with a -more productive pasturage in wild and cultivated -grounds.</p> -<p>The sense of isolation and solitude is nowhere -more profound than in a tropical forest, and -more especially so in Tahiti, as here animal life -is scarce. The only game found are domestic -hogs and chickens, which have run wild, and -these are scarce. There are no birds of plumage -and few song-birds. Chameleons frequent sunny -spots, and butterflies, of all sizes and colors, -enliven the air. There are no snakes and few -poisonous insects; no deer, bear, leopards or -monkeys. Even the ordinary water-birds, with -the exception of a small species of sea-gull and -occasionally a crane, seem to avoid this island.</p> -<p>A day spent in the wonderful forests of Tahiti -will bring no regrets; on the other hand, will be -replete with pleasure and profit, and will leave -charming pictures on memory's tablet which -time can never efface. On the brightest day, -darkness reigns underneath the almost -impenetrable roof of branches, vines and foliage. Here -and there the sun's rays penetrate through the -gigantic bowery maze, and fall upon the ground -with almost unnatural intensity, frequently -appearing and disappearing as the wind plays -with the leaves.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The green leaves quiver with the cooling wind,</p> -<p>And make a checker'd shadow on the ground.</p> -<p>SHAKESPEARE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The solemn silence of the forest, the grandeur -of vegetation, the effects of light and shadows, -are impressive, and the visitor will carry away -from Tahiti an inspiring and lasting mental -picture of</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Her forests huge,</p> -<p>Incult, robust, and tall, by Nature's hand</p> -<p>Planted of old.</p> -<p>THOMSON.</p> -</blockquote> -</div> -<div class="section" id="noted-forest-trees-of-tahiti"> -<h1>NOTED FOREST TREES OF TAHITI</h1> -<p>The forests of Tahiti comprise many species -of trees, the timber of which would command a -high price in the market, but it is my intention -here to enumerate and briefly describe only a -few of the trees which interest the visitor the -most, as he will see them wherever he goes as -shade trees, and as component parts of the -magnificent forests.</p> -<p><em>Purau or Burao</em> is the <em>Hibiscus tiliaceus</em> -(Linné), (syn.: <em>Paritium tiliaceum</em>), order -<em>Malvaceæ</em>. The flowers are bell-shaped, of a -beautiful canary color, but quickly fall and turn to -red or reddish brown. They are made up of -five imbricated petals, painted a dark brown at -their base and inner surface. The glaucous -leaf-like calix is five-parted. The five stamens form -a sheath for the pistil, which is five-parted and -brown at its apex. The large leaves are used by -the native housewives in lieu of a table-cloth. -It is said that the macerated leaves and flowers -are used to heal burns, bruises, etc. (McDaniels). -The trunks of the largest trees are made into -canoes. The inner tough bark serves as a -substitute for hemp in the making of twine and -ropes. The roots of this tree have earned a -reputation as a valuable medicine in the -treatment of diseases of the gastro-intestinal canal. -This is a common and beautiful shade tree in -Papeete, and if the traveler visits the island in -January or February he will find it in full bloom. -The dark green leaves and the light yellow -flowers form a very pleasing contrast. It attains -a height of from forty to sixty and more feet. -The short and often very crooked stem sends off -numerous large branches, clothed, like the stem, -in a rough black bark. The branches are often -so crooked and tortuous that they form such an -intricate entanglement that even the woodman's -ax would meet with difficulties to isolate and -liberate them. The branches appear to have an -intrinsic tendency to reach the ground, and when -they do so strike root and become daughter trees, -growing skyward, and soon rival in height the -parent tree. In the woods it is not uncommon to -find the parent tree surrounded at variable -distances by numerous daughter trees. Many such -ambitious branches are formed into graceful -arches before they attain the wished-for -independence. This tree, with its numerous offspring -and interlacing branches, contributes much in -rendering the jungles in which it grows -impenetrable in many places. The wood is white and -soft. The leaves are as large as an ordinary small -soup-plate, long-petioled, seven-ribbed, broadly -cordate and acuminate, dark green and glossy -on their upper, and strongly veined and paler, -on their lower surface.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image41"> -<img alt="CASCADE OF FAUTAHUA" src="images/Image41.jpg" style="width: 386.5px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">CASCADE OF FAUTAHUA</p> -</div> -<p><em>Banyan Tree</em>.—The <em>Ficus Indica</em>, a native tree -of India, remarkable for its vast rooting branches, -outstripping in this respect by far the tree just -described. It is a species of wild fig, has ovate, -heart-shaped, entire leaves, about five or six -inches long, and produces a fruit of a rich scarlet -color, not larger than a cherry, growing in pairs -front the axils of the leaves. The branches send -shoots downwards, which, when they have rooted, -become stems; the tree in this manner spreading -over a great surface, and enduring for many -years. The banyan tree found in the island of -Tahiti docs not spread as much as the Indian tree, -and the aerial roots which later become a part of -the trunk after they strike the ground and -develop an independent existence, become -supplied with new roots. Most of the aerial roots -of the Tahitian tree take their origin from the -lower part of the trunk and remain in close -contact with it after they strike the ground, and -many of them remain dangling free in the air -in vain attempts to secure an independent -existence, the branch roots being comparatively few. -The tree is found at short intervals along the -ninety-mile drive, and the largest one I saw was -in the front yard of the Cercle Bougainville, the -French club in Papeete.</p> -<p><em>Pandanus Tree, Screw Pine</em>.—The <em>Pandanus -Freycinctia</em> natural order of <em>Pandaneæ</em>. There -are about fifty species of this tree, natives of -South Africa to Polynesia. The pandanus tree -of Tahiti is a palm-like tree which is found along -the shore close to the water's edge, with a short -white stem, much branched with long, simple -imbricated leaves, usually spiny on the back and -margin, their base embracing the stem, their -spiral arrangement being well marked. The base -of the stem does not touch the ground, but rests -on a cluster of strong roots, which diverge -somewhat before they strike the soil. The leaves -are much used for thatch roofs and the thin, -compact, superficial layer serves as wrappers for the -native cigarettes. The fruit is edible and is eaten -by the natives in times of scarcity of food.</p> -<p><em>Flame Tree, Flamboyer</em>.—The <em>Brachychiton -acerifolium</em> is the Australian flame-tree -introduced, as is asserted, into Tahiti by Bougainville. -It is a magnificent and common shade tree in -Papeete, but is also found scattered all along the -coast of the island. It is an evergreen tree with -showy trusses of crimson flowers. This is the -most beautiful of all ornamental trees in the -island. The mucilaginous sap, when exuded, -indurates to a kind of bassarin—tragacanth.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="vanilla-cultivation-in-tahiti"> -<h1>VANILLA CULTIVATION IN TAHITI</h1> -<p>The cultivation of the aromatic vanilla-bean is -one of the principal industries of Tahiti. The -bean grows luxuriantly in the shady forests in the -lowlands along the coast, and requires but little -care. The climate and soil of Tahiti are -specially adapted to the cultivation of the -vanilla-bean, as the very best quality is grown here. The -<em>Vanilla aromatica</em> is a genus of parasitic -<em>Orchidaceæ</em>, a native of tropic parts of America and -Asia, which springs at first from the ground -and climbs with twining stems to the height of -from twenty to thirty feet on trees, sending into -them fibrous roots, produced from nodes, from -which the leaves grow. These roots, drawing the -sap from the trees, sustain the plant, even after -the ground-root has been destroyed. Flower -white; corolla tubular; stigma distant from -anthers, rendering spontaneous fructification -difficult; leaves oblong, light green, fleshy, with an -exceedingly acrid juice; flowers in spikes, very -large, fleshy and generally fragrant. The fruit -is a pod-like, fleshy capsule, opening along the -side. The ripe bean is cylindrical, about nine -inches in length, and less than half an inch -thick. It is gathered before it is entirely ripe, -and dried in the shade. It contains within its -tough pericarp a soft black pulp, in which many -minute seeds are imbedded. The plant is -cultivated by cuttings. In Mexico and South -American countries, the insects effect -impregnation; in Tahiti, this is done artificially. With -a small, sharp stick the pollen is conveyed to -the stigma of the pistil. Artificial impregnation -of fifteen hundred flowers is considered a good -day's work. Allusion has been made elsewhere to -the fact that the shrewd Chinamen have -depreciated the vanilla industry in Tahiti and ruined -the reputation of the product. If the natives -could be induced to stop their dealings with the -scheming Chinese merchants and traders, and the -government would release them from export -duty, the cultivation of vanilla would soon -regain its former importance and would yield a -very profitable income. The Tahitians are not -agriculturists; they are averse to hard manual -labor; they are</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Of proud-lived loiterers, that never sow,</p> -<p>Nor put a plant in earth, nor use a plough.</p> -<p>CHAPMAN.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>and hence are anxious to obtain what little money -they need with as little effort as possible. Vanilla, -once planted, requires very little attention, and -it grows most luxuriantly in the dark shadow of -the dense forest, where the natives engaged in -artificial impregnation of the flower and in -gathering the bean are protected against the direct -heat of the sun. The great advantage of -vanilla-cultivation to the island consists in the fact that -this valuable article of commerce can be grown -without deforestation, so essential in the -cultivation of much less valuable products of the soil -of the tropics.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image42"> -<img alt="BRIDGE ACROSS FAUTAHUA" src="images/Image42.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 342.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">BRIDGE ACROSS FAUTAHUA NEAR THE WATERFALL</p> -</div> -</div> -<div class="section" id="the-rural-districts"> -<h1>THE RURAL DISTRICTS</h1> -<p>Papeete is not the place to study the natives, -their habits and customs, as European influence -and example have here largely effaced the -simplicity and charms of native life. The rural -districts are the places for the tourist to get -glimpses of real native life. He will find there -the best specimens of natives, and an opportunity -to study their primitive methods of living. There -is no other island of similar size where the -traveler will find it so easy to visit all of the -rural districts and villages. By following the -ninety-mile drive, he can encircle the entire -island in a comfortable carriage, and finish the -trip in four days, if his time is limited, and in -doing so he sees the inhabited part of the island -and nearly all of the villages. He will see on -this trip Paea Grotto and cave, also -picnic-grounds, eighteen miles from Papeete, Papara, -six miles further, is noted for native singing, -chanting and dancing. The real Tahitian life is -met at Pari and Tautira. On the other side of -the island, the road skirts along the coast and -ascends five hundred feet above the level of the -sea. The drive is a charming one, as the traveler -never loses the sight of mountains and hills, and -only very seldom, and at long intervals, of the -blue Pacific Ocean. In some places the road-bed -is cut through solid rock, and for a few moments -the panoramic view of the magnificent scenery -is shut out from sight, but on the other side of -the cut a picture more beautiful than ever is -unrolled. The ocean claims the first attention -as it smiles in the dazzling sunshine beneath -where</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The murmuring surge,</p> -<p>That on th' unnumber'd idle pebbles chafes.</p> -<p>Can not be heard so high.</p> -<p>SHAKESPEARE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>In the distance we can see the foam-crested -waves dash over the coral reef in their attempts -to reach the placid waters of the peaceful lagoon, -where the wavelets play with the pebbles on the -shore. Looking toward the left, we again are -face to face with the mountains, that are our -constant companions, on the entire route. There -is a feeling of solemnity which takes possession -of the soul when communing with Nature in -her grandest mood, and we begin to feel that</p> -<blockquote> -<p>I live not myself, but I become</p> -<p>Portion of that around me; and to me</p> -<p>High mountains are a feeling; but the hum</p> -<p>Of human cities, torture.</p> -<p>BYRON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>We see the naked mountain-peaks and the bare -backs of the foot-hills.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Rock-ribbed, and ancient as the sun.</p> -<p>BRYANT.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>We pass through magnificent groves of -cocoa-palms, and now the road leads through a primeval -forest with an impenetrable jungle on its floor, -where</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The winds within the quiv'ring branches play'd,</p> -<p>And dancing trees a mournful music made.</p> -<p>DRYDEN.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>We pass through or near the quaint native -villages peopled with naked children, scantily -dressed women, and men whose only garment -consists of a much-checkered, many-colored calico -loin-cloth. We cross rivers, brooks and rivulets -without number, and looking for their source -we see glimpses, here and there, of cascades and -cataracts, high up on the mountainside, in the -form of streaks of silver in the clefts of the -deep green ocean of trees. We see butterflies -by the hundreds, of all colors, playing in the -sunshine or eagerly devouring the nectar of the -sweetest flowers. We admire the richness and -variety of the floral kingdom, and inhale the -perfume of the fragrant flowers, suspended in -the pure air and wafted to us by the cool land -breeze sent down from the top of the mountains. -As the sun approaches the horizon, and the short, -bewitching twilight sets in, with the gorgeous -display of colors in the sky and the wonderful -effects of light and shadow on sea and shore, -we can realize that</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Softly the evening came. The sun from the western horizon</p> -<p>Like a magician extended his golden wand o'er the landscape;</p> -<p>Twinkling vapors arose; and sky, and water, and forest.</p> -<p>Seemed all on fire at the touch, and melted and mingled together.</p> -<p>LONGFELLOW.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The vistas and views along this circular drive -are infinite; the surprises at every turn without -number. No matter how much the visitor may -have traveled, even if he has seen the whole -world outside of this blessed island, he will see -here many things he has never seen before. -Every step brings new revelations of the beauty -and goodness of Nature and her tender care for -man. What a paradise for lovers of nature, -for poets and artists! Here is a place above all -others in the world, where</p> -<blockquote> -<p>No tears</p> -<p>Dim the sweet look that Nature wears.</p> -<p>LONGFELLOW.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The further the visitor wends his way from -Papeete, the more he will find the natives in their -natural state, and the less contaminated by -European influence. On the opposite side of the -island, at Pari, the people have preserved their -native customs, and live now about in the same -manner as when Wallis discovered the island. -Religion and civilization have liberated them -from ancient barbarities, but have had little -influence in changing their customs, for</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Custom has an ascendency over the understanding.</p> -<p>DR. I. WATTS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>All of the villages scattered at short intervals -along the ninety-mile drive are small; the largest -with not more than five hundred inhabitants. In -Papeete, and between it and Papara, the natives -live in small frame houses, built on piling several -feet above the ground, covered with a roof of -corrugated iron, and made more spacious and -comfortable by a veranda facing the road. Few -native houses are encountered on this part of the -journey. Beyond Papara they are the rule, and -these retain their primitive charm. They are -built of upright sticks of bamboo, lashed side by -side to a frame of stripped poles in the form of -an oval. Upon this is a heavy roof of pandanus -thatch covering a cool, well-ventilated, sanitary -home. The air circulates freely through the open -spaces between the poles, as well as between the -two doorways on opposite sides of the house. -Mats take the place of a floor.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image43"> -<img alt="LAGOON AND REEF" src="images/Image43.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 332.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">LAGOON AND REEF ON THE NINETY-MILE ROAD</p> -</div> -<p>Cooking is done outside without the use of a -stove. The native oven is a very simple affair, -as it consists of a layer of stones upon which a -fire is built. When heated to the requisite -degree—and this is a matter the experienced housewife -must determine—the food is placed amid the -embers, wrapped in pieces of banana leaves and -covered over with piles of damp breadfruit leaves. -Breadfruit, taro, green bananas and plantains, -are the articles of food prepared in this way. -The roasting of a pig, the favorite meat of the -South Sea Islanders, is a more complicated -process, and to do it well requires much experience. -A hole is dug in the ground and paved with -stones, upon which a fire is built. When the stones -are thoroughly heated and the fire exhausted or -extinguished, the whole animal, properly -prepared and wrapped in leaves, is placed in the -pit, covered with damp leaves and loose earth. -On great festive occasions, fowl and fish are -added to the contents of the pit. The pork, fowl -and fish cooked in this manner are delicious, and -the slightly smoky taste only adds to their -savoriness. It is the pride of the cook to remove the -roasted pig without mutilation, usually a very -delicate task. Chicken, boiled in the milk of the -cocoanut, is another masterpiece of native -cookery. The cocoanut is prepared in many ways for -the table and a sauce made of the compressed -juice of the grated nut, mixed with lime juice -and sea-water, makes a most palatable sauce for -meats and fish.</p> -<p>House-building and housekeeping are free -from care and never ruffle the family peace. If -a young couple desire to establish a home of their -own, they signify their intentions to their friends -and neighbors. These gather, usually Sunday -afternoon at two o'clock, at the place selected for -the new home, bring bamboo sticks, poles and -pandanus leaves, and at sundown the house is -ready for occupation. The pandanus roof does -efficient service for about seven years, when it -has to be removed and replaced by a new one. -The bamboo framework, properly protected, lasts -for a much longer time. As the whole house -consists of a single oval room, is floorless and not -encumbered by furniture of any kind, the -house-wife has an easy existence, more especially as -the children can not outwear their clothing, and -their husband's loin-cloths need no repairs.</p> -<p>While meat in Tahiti is scarce, every family -has an easy access to a rich fish-supply. The -fish which swarm in the lagoons and outside of -the reefs furnish an easily secured food-supply. -They are caught in different ways—by hook or -netting—and not the least picturesque way is the -torchlight fishing on the lagoon. Torches are -improvised of long cocoa-palm leaves tied into -rolls. With a boat-load of these, together with -nets and spears, the fishermen in their canoes -paddle out upon the water after dark. Flying -fish, attracted by the light, shoot overhead and -are dexterously caught in a hand-net. Other -kinds of fish, by aid of the light, are speared -over the side of the canoe. Dolphin and bonita, -the latter a favorite fish, are taken with the hook -and line, in larger canoes sailing on the open sea, -but this kind of fishing is left to a few hardy men. -The women scoop up small river-fish in baskets, -and drag-nets are used in capturing the many -varieties of small fish of the lagoon. While the -fish are being cooked in the underground oven, -some member of the family goes into the adjacent -forest and in a short time returns with -breadfruit, and a variety of fruits, to make up a dainty -and substantial repast.</p> -<p>The island is divided into seventeen districts -and each district has its own chief, who is -entrusted with the local government. The chiefs -are elected by popular vote every few years, the -office being no longer hereditary. The chief -resides in the principal village of his district and -here is to be invariably found a government -school, a Protestant and a Catholic church with -its respective parochial school, and a -meeting-house which serves as a gathering-place for the -annual native plays and on all occasions of public -concern. A daily mail supplies the rural -population with the news of the island and keeps them -in touch with the outside world. Abject poverty -in the city and country is unknown, and begging -is looked upon as a disgrace. There is neither -wealth nor poverty in Tahiti. The people have -all they need and all they desire, and</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Poor and content is rich, and rich enough.</p> -<p>SHAKESPEARE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>I am quite sure that the tourist who has tasted -freely of modern life such as it now is in our -large cities, with all its cares and temptations, -all its unrealness and disappointments, when he -has seen the happy, contented, free-from-care -Tahitians, in their charming island and simple -homes, will be willing to confess:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>For my part, I should prefer to be always poor, in -blessings such as these.</p> -<p>HORATIUS.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>and</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Everything that exceeds the bounds of moderation -has an unstable foundation.</p> -<p>SENECA.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image44"> -<img alt="ON THE NINETY-MILE ROAD" src="images/Image44.jpg" style="width: 339.0px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">ON THE NINETY-MILE ROAD</p> -</div> -</div> -<div class="section" id="point-venus"> -<h1>POINT VENUS</h1> -<p>Every visitor to Tahiti should visit Point -Venus, as it is a historic place near where the -Europeans made their first landings in Matavai -Bay, and where the first white settlers cast their -lot with the natives. It is in this neighborhood -where the English missionaries established their -permanent home and from here spread the new -tidings of the gospel over the entire island. They -labored in vain for nearly twenty years, when all -at once a religious wave swept over the island -which resulted in the speedy Christianization of -almost the entire population. I have already -referred to Point Venus as the place where the -government lighthouse is located and where -Captain Cook had his headquarters when he and -the scientists who accompanied him observed the -transit of Venus by order of the English -government in the year 1769. The place where the -scientific observations were made is marked by -a modest monument of stone surrounded by an -iron railing, on which are inscribed the data -commemorative of the work accomplished. Close -by this monument, on the most prominent point, -has been erected the lighthouse which guides -the mariner in approaching the island during -the night. The distance from Papeete to Point -Venus is seven miles, over a macadamized road -which we found in a somewhat neglected -condition. Two native villages, Pirae and Arue, are -passed on the way, and a third, Haapape, is close -by. The road leads through groves of -cocoa-palms, primeval forests and jungles, and a part -of it skirts the foot-hills of the towering -mountains. Most of the time the beautiful lagoon, -dotted here and there with fishermen's canoes, -is in sight. The calmness of the air, the solemnity -of the surroundings and the sight of these canoes -on the unruffled lagoon, reminded us of</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Low stir of leaves and dip of oars</p> -<p>And lapsing waves on quiet shores.</p> -<p>WHITTIER.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Some of the more daring fishermen we saw -outside of the reef, in the same frail crafts, -battling with a rougher sea, but the skilled use -of their very primitive paddles kept the canoes -in good motion and steady, and it seemed</p> -<blockquote> -<p>She walks the waters like a thing of life,</p> -<p>And seems to dare the elements to strife,</p> -<p>BYRON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Matavai Bay, which the road follows for a -considerable distance, is a beautiful sheet of -water. It was in this bay that the ships of the -early voyagers found a resting-place, and where -on its shore the first white men touched the soil -of Tahiti and came face to face with a people -who had never heard of a world outside of the -islands of the Pacific. The scenery all along -this drive is truly tropical. The floral wealth -is great and its variety endless. It was on this -drive I found the passion-flower in full bloom -and exquisite beauty.</p> -<p>Near Point Venus we met a gang of natives, -in charge of the chief of the district, engaged -in repairing the road. All except the chief -were in loin-cloths as their only article of dress. -They worked leisurely, and smoked and chatted -in a way that showed that they were happy even -when bearing the burden of the day and the -scorching rays of the tropic sun, with nothing -in view for their ten-o'clock breakfast but the -cool mountain water instead of coffee, breadfruit -or plantain (<em>fei</em>) for bread, and some fruit -gathered in the woods on their way to work.</p> -<p>The round trip from Papeete to Point Venus -can be made in three hours, and gives one a very -excellent idea of the general topography of the -island and is replete with both pleasure and -profit.</p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="fautahua-valley"> -<h1>FAUTAHUA VALLEY</h1> -<p>The next interesting short drive from Papeete -is to the Fautahua Valley, distance four miles. -It is noted for delightful river scenery and tropic -vegetation, and at the end of the valley is a -beautiful waterfall. This charming valley, with -its typical tropic scenery enclosed by towering -mountains and resounding with the rippling, -dashing music of a turbulent mountain stream -and the babbling and murmuring of the many -brooks and rivulets of pure crystal water which -feed it, is well worth a visit. This valley was -once densely populated, if we can judge from the -abundance of imported fruit trees and the coffee -shrub which now flourish in the forest unaided -by the care of man, while, at the present time, -the native huts are few and far apart. Wild -arrowroot grows here in profusion, and a variety -of exogenous shade trees have become an -important component part of the primeval forest, -rendered almost impenetrable by vines and a dense -undergrowth. A carriage-road extends to -Fashoda Bridge, well up in the mountains, -beyond which it leads up the gorge, past a waterfall -which leaps over a rocky rim, where the -mountains join to the bed of the stream, six hundred -feet below. In different places the romantic -mountain road is spanned by graceful arches of -branches of the pauru tree, ambitious to find on -the opposite side of the road an independent -existence from the parent tree. One of the large, -quiet pools below the Fashoda Bridge, a favorite -bathing-place for women and their daughters, -has been made famous by the writings of Pierre -Loti, a French author.</p> -<p>From Fashoda Bridge a bridle path leads up -a very steep incline to the French military post -in the very heart of the mountains, six thousand -feet above the level of the sea. It was here that -the natives made their last stand in their war -with France. A little beyond the fort rise the -crags which compose "the Diadem," a -conspicuous landmark in the mountains of Tahiti.</p> -<p>The view from Fashoda Bridge in all -directions is inspiring: at the end of the gorge the -waterfall dashing over the volcanic rock, -pulverized at many points in its descent into silvery -spray; the tree-clad mountains on each side with -their steeples of bare rock; beneath, the wild -mountain stream, speeding to find rest in the -quiet basin below; and all around, the rank -vegetation which only the tropics under the most -favorable conditions can grow, and above, the -clear blue sky, brilliantly illuminated by the -morning sun. As late as nine o'clock in the -forenoon we found everything bathed in a heavy -dew, which added much to the beauty and -freshness of the incomparable scenery.</p> -<p>Near the bridge, leading a pack-mule, we met -a soldier on his way to the city for supplies -for the small garrison in charge of the fort. -Military duty at this lone isolated station must -certainly prove monotonous, as from the bridge -the only way to reach the fort is either on foot -or mule-back. The quietude of this peaceful -valley, at the time of our visit, was disturbed by -a large force of native laborers who were laying -the pipes for the new city waterworks.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image45"> -<img alt="FISHERMEN OF PAPEETE" src="images/Image45.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 338.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">FISHERMEN OF PAPEETE</p> -</div> -</div> -<div class="section" id="village-of-papara"> -<h1>VILLAGE OF PAPARA</h1> -<p>The village of Papara, the largest in the -island, has been the acknowledged stronghold of -the Tevas for centuries. Here the powerful -chiefs of the clan have ruled their subjects with -an inborn sense of justice until their jurisdiction -and, power were curtailed by foreign -intervention. For a long time the ruling house of -the Tevas dominated the social and political life -of the island. It was at Papara that the largest -and most imposing marae was built, consisting -of a huge pile of stones in the form of a -truncated cone, the ruins of which still remain -as a silent reminder of the political power of -the Tevas lone before the white man cast his -greedy eyes upon this island paradise.</p> -<p>The district of Papara, of which the village -of about five hundred inhabitants is the seat of -the local government, is the most fertile and -prosperous of all the seventeen districts into -which the island is at present divided. Tati -Salmon, son of Ariitaimai, the famed chiefess -and historian of the island, is the present chief. -He was educated in London, is highly respected -by the foreigners and natives alike, and owns -about one-third of the island. He lives in a -charming old-fashioned house, the original part -of which was built more than a century ago. The -house is situated at the mouth of a large -mountain stream, and faces the broad lagoon hemmed -in by a coral reef, over which the surf dashes -from day to day and from year to year with the -same regularity, with the same splashing and -moaning sounds of the waves as they leap from -the restless ocean beyond into the peaceful bosom -of the calm lagoon.</p> -<p>Papara, like all of the native villages, is located -on the circular road familiarly known as the -ninety-mile drive. The road from Papeete to -Papara, a distance of twenty miles, leads through -the most picturesque and interesting part of the -island. The road is a genuine chaussee, -constructed at great expense by the French -government, and is kept in excellent repair. For the -most part it follows the coast in full view of the -lagoon and the ocean beyond, and, for more than -one-half of the distance, the smaller volcanic -sister island, Moorea, is in sight. The mountains -are constantly in sight, ceaselessly changing in -their aspects with distance and change of -perspective. The narrow strip of coast-land is -covered with a thick layer of the most productive -soil upon a foundation of rock and red volcanic -earth. Vegetation everywhere is rampant and -extends from the very edge of the lagoon to the -naked pinnacles of the mountains. In many -places the road skirts the foot-hills, and at -different points the precipitous mountains rise from -the bed of the lagoon, where the road-bed had to -be made by blasting away a part of their firm -foundation of volcanic stone.</p> -<p>The traveler on the whole trip is never without -the companionship of the branchless, slender, -graceful cocoa-palms, with their terminal crown -of giant leaves, clusters of blossoms, and nuts of -all sizes and stages of maturity. A stately forest -of cocoa-palms like those found on the coast of -Tahiti is a sight that can not fail to interest and -fascinate the Northerner fresh from zero weather, -snow and ice. The straight, columnar trunks, -with their sail-like terminal fronds and clusters -of fruit in all stages of development from the -blossom to the golden yellow of the ripe nut, are -objects of study and admiration which create in -the visitor a strong and lasting attachment for -the tropics. There is no other spot on the globe -where the tourist can see larger and more -beautiful palm forests than on the circular road -between Papeete and Papara. The cocoa-palm -is queen here, as there is no other tree among its -many neighbors that has succeeded in equaling -it in height. The lofty, proud head of the palm -has no competitor; it is alone in that stratum -of air and looks down upon the plebeian -trees beneath with a sense of superiority, if not -of scorn. For miles this road passes through -magnificent forests of cocoa-palms, with a heavy -undergrowth of guava, extending from the shore -high up the foot-hills and mountainsides. The -cocoa-palm is fond of salt water and thrives best -when its innumerable slender, long roots can -imbibe it from the briny shore.</p> -<p>The pandanus tree is even more partial to a -soil impregnated with salt water. On this drive -this tree is frequently seen, and in preference at -the very brink of the coast, with the butt-end of -the trunk high in the air, resting on a colonnade -of numerous powerful, slightly diverging roots. -Another tree omnipresent on this drive is the -pauru tree, with its large leaves and charming -cream-yellow, salver-shaped flowers. This tree -loves the dark, shady jungles, where its tortuous -branches mingle freely with the dense -undergrowth and climbing plants.</p> -<p>The views that present themselves on this drive -at every turn are simply bewitching and vary with -every curve of the road. The gentle ocean -breeze that fans the flushed face of the raptured -traveler is lost when the road leaves the coast -and plunges into a primeval forest, when</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Gradual sinks the breeze</p> -<p>Into a perfect calm; that not a breath</p> -<p>Is heard to quiver through the closing wood.</p> -<p>THOMSON.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image46"> -<img alt="TAHITIAN CANOE" src="images/Image46.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 375.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">TAHITIAN CANOE WITH OUTRIGGER</p> -</div> -<p>As the carriage emerges from the dark shades -of the forest into the dazzling sunlight in full -view of the near-by ocean again.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The winds, with wonder whist,</p> -<p>Smoothly the waters kiss'd,</p> -<p>Whispering new joys to the mild ocean.</p> -<p>MILTON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Every turn of the wheel on this winding road -brings new delights. The views of mountains -and ocean, the strange trees and flowers, the -childlike natives and their dusky, naked children, -the quaint villages, the turbulent mountain -streams and the diminutive cataracts and -waterfalls, framed in emerald green on the -mountain-sides, enchant the eye and stimulate the mind -every moment. These little waterfalls have -excavated the hardest rocks and have chiseled out, -in the course of centuries, crevices and caves of -the strangest designs.</p> -<p>The floral wealth of Tahiti is immense. Mr. -McDaniel, of Los Angeles, Cal., during a -several-months' visit to the island, analyzed and -classified two thousand different kinds of plants. Some -of the flowers are gorgeous, others yield a sweet -perfume which is diffused through the pure air, -imparting to it the balmy character for which it -has become famous. An acquaintance with these -flowers suggests:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Were I, O God, in churchless lands remaining,</p> -<p>Far from all voice of teachers or divines,</p> -<p>My soul would find, in flowers of thy ordaining,</p> -<p>Priests, sermons, shrines.</p> -<p>SHAKESPEARE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>At a sudden turn of the road a vista is disclosed -that defies description. In the open roadway, -brilliantly illuminated by the noonday sun, in the -distance, a flame-tree, with its flowers of fire, -dazzles the eyes, and its grandeur and beauty -increase as we approach it, while, in a few -moments, what appeared as an apparition is -behind us, and the tension of vision is relieved by -a long, restful look over the limitless expanse of -the blue sea. I have seen the flame-tree in -different countries, but the sight of this one, with its -magic surroundings, made a picture of exquisite -beauty which forcibly recalled the lines:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The spreading branches made a goodly show,</p> -<p>And full of opening blooms was ev'ry bough.</p> -<p>DRYDEN.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The numerous villages of land-crabs met on -this drive afford amusement for the stranger, -unfamiliar with this inhabitant of the coast in -the tropics. The land-crabs have evidently a -well-organized government in each community. -Among the most important officials are the -sentinels, who are always on duty, when the -inhabitants of the village have left their underground -habitations, to give timely notice of impending -danger. With the approach of man, the whole -colony is on the alert. As a matter of safety, -the land-crab does not stray far away from its -subterranean home. When these animals are out -in the open they are never caught napping. Their -large, exophthalmic eyes are never idle, and the -instant danger threatens they speed to their place -of safety. If you have enough patience to wait, -you will find, sooner or later, two large staring -eyes on a level with the hole where the animal -disappeared. The land-crab is cautious, -constantly on the lookout, and, on the first signal of -danger, makes a rush for his or somebody else's -hole.</p> -<p>A short distance from Papeete is a truck -garden managed by Chinamen. This enterprise, the -only one I noticed on the drive, demonstrates well -what the soil of Tahiti is capable of producing -in the way of growing vegetables. It is an ideal -vegetable garden, weedless, and verdant with all -kinds of vegetables. The foreign population of -the city is supplied from here with lettuce, -asparagus, cabbage, sweet potatoes, carrots, onions, -turnips and melons of the choicest quality. The -natives have no use for vegetables and make no -attempts to raise them for the market. The -guava shrub is found everywhere. It has infested -the country, weed-like, and its golden fruit is not -appreciated by the natives; only a very small part -of the fruit is gathered for making jelly, one of -the few articles of export.</p> -<p>This is the part of the island where the -vanilla-bean is most extensively cultivated. A vanilla -plantation is a jungle in which the bean thrives -best. In the thick woods all along the road, the -climbing bean is seen trailing up the shrubs and -trees, often to a height of twenty feet. At the -time of my visit the blossoms had disappeared -and the green beans had reached a length of -about four inches, half their length when they are -ripe. A patient and prolonged search made for -a flower was finally rewarded by the finding of a -belated bud which, on being placed in water, -expanded into a flower during the night, affording -me an opportunity to study its anatomy.</p> -<p>Three small villages, Faaa, Punaauia and Paea, -are passed on the way from Papeete to Papara, -and, like all other villages, each of them had -its own government school, a Catholic and a -Protestant church, and, connected with these, two -parochial schools. The compulsory education -introduced into the island applies to children from -six to sixteen years of age. The churches are -well attended, but I was informed by a German, -who has resided in Tahiti for thirty years, that -the people attend service more as a matter of -amusement than with any intention of obtaining -spiritual benefit.</p> -<p>Nearly all of the village shops are kept by -Chinamen, and it is needless to say that these -shrewd foreigners take undue advantage of the -simple, trusting natives, in all of their business -transactions. Much of the hard-earned money of -the natives finds its way into the capacious -pockets of these enterprising Orientals.</p> -<p>We reached Papara toward evening, and, when -we came in sight of the chiefery, were deeply -impressed with the beauty of the location. Palm -trees, flowering shrubs and garden flowers adorn -the spacious grounds in front and all around the -ancient mansion which is perched on an elevated -plateau adjoining the large and beautiful stream -of crystal mountain water, and facing the placid -lagoon. An immense double war-canoe was at -anchor in the river. It is now used as a -fishing-boat by one of the sons of the chief, when he -desires to catch the bonita outside of the lagoon. -It takes seven men to manage this giant canoe, -by means of paddles.</p> -<p>In front of the wide veranda of the one-story -house is an ornamental tree which spreads its -branches at least twenty feet in all directions. -As it was in full bloom at the time of my visit, -it added much to the beauty and comfort of the -immediate surroundings in front of the house.</p> -<p>The rooms of the mansion are large, and -brimful of local antiquities and old furniture imported -from Europe, which impart to them a coziness -and charm which have been greatly appreciated -and gratefully remembered by many a welcome -visitor. It is in a house like this, presided over by -the chief of Papara and his charming family, that -one can experience what genuine, unselfish -hospitality means.</p> -<p>Twelve servants, men and women, take -care of the house, the family and the visitors. -Most of these were born on the place, and some -of them, very old now, were in the service of the -grandfather of the present chief. The relation -between master and servants in this house is a -very pleasant one. The servants are looked upon -and treated rather as relatives than employes. -Their pay is small, but they are given all the -comforts of a home.</p> -<p>Word had been sent ahead from Papeete -announcing our visit, for the purpose of securing -for us the rare pleasure of partaking of a -genuine native dinner. A little pig was roasted -underground, and chickens were boiled in the -milk of the cocoanut, exquisite dishes, which, -with excellent coffee, French bread, and a variety -of luscious tropical fruit, made up a dinner which -it would be impossible to duplicate in any of the -large cities of the continents.</p> -<p>The village of Papara is a most interesting -place to visit. Besides the magnificent scenery, -one finds here many native huts, and the town -hall is a large, airy structure, built of bamboo -sticks and covered with a thatched roof. Near -the village are the grotto and cave, which enjoy -a local reputation, and are well worth seeing by -the visitor.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The sun's rim dips; the stars rush out:</p> -<p>At one stride conies the dark;</p> -<p>With far-heard whisper o'er the sea;</p> -<p>Off shot the spectre bark.</p> -<p>COLERIDGE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The day had been hot and sultry. From a -cloudless sky, the tropical sun shot down, without -mercy, his arrows of heat, against which the -lightest and most porous headdress, umbrella, -roof and shade afforded but inadequate protection. -Man and beast were listless, perspiring, careful -to make no unnecessary exertion. The green, -succulent foliage bowed under the oppressive -heat, and even the gayest of the flowers drooped -their proud heads in homage to the fierce -king of the serene blue sky. The very -atmosphere quivered in convulsive movements, -and the intense light, reflected from the surface -of the sleeping ocean and the white city, dazzled -and blinded those who ventured to go out into -the streets. The little capital city of Papeete, -nestled on the plateau between the harbor and -the foot of towering mountains, half hidden -among the tropic trees, was at rest; market and -streets deserted, business houses closed, and the -wharf silent and lifeless. The numerous -miserable curs in the streets sought shelter in the shade, -lying in a position affording most perfect -relaxation, with protruded, blue, saliva-covered tongues, -fighting the heat by increasing the respiratory -movements to the utmost speed. The -numerous half-wild pigs in the streets, with paralyzed -tails and relaxed bristles, buried themselves as -deeply as possible in the nearest mud-pool, and -with eyes closed, submitted passively to the fiery -rays of the midday sun. The roaming chickens, -from bald chicks a few days old to the ruffled, -fatless veterans of questionable age, suspended -their search for rare particles of food with which -to satisfy their torturing sense of hunger, and -simply squatted where the heat overcame them, -in the nearest shady place, there to spend the -enforced siesta with bills wide open and the dry, -blue tongues agitated by the rapid and violent -breathing. The birds of the air ceased their frolic; -their song was silenced, and they took refuge in -trees with thickest foliage. Men, women and -children, rich and poor, merchant and laborer, -were forced to suspend work and play, and seek, -in the shadow of their homes or near-by trees, -protection against the onslaught of the burning -rays of the sun. Such is the victory of the sun -of the tropics. He demands unconditional -surrender on the part of every living thing. He -knows no compromise, as he is sure of victory as -long as his victim is in a favorable strategic -position. This was the case on the day of which I -speak. As the rays of the sun became more and -more oblique, and the invisible great fan of the -land-breeze was set in motion, wafting down -from the high mountain peaks a current of cool -air, the city woke up from its midday slumber. -The sun had lost his fiery power. He was -retreating from the field of combat, and -approaching in the distance the rim of the placid ocean. -The monarch of the day, so near his cool, watery -couch, laid aside his mask of fire and smiled -upon the vanishing world with a face beaming -with happiness and peace.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The sun was set, and Vesper, to supply</p> -<p>His absent beams, had lighted up the sky.</p> -<p>DRYDEN.</p> -<p>It was an evening bright and still</p> -<p>As ever blush'd on wave or bower,</p> -<p>Smiling from heaven, as if naught ill</p> -<p>Could happen in so sweet an hour.</p> -<p>MOORE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The last act of the retiring monarch of the day -revealed his incomparable skill as a painter. -He showed discretion in the selection of the time -to demonstrate to the best advantage his -matchless artistic skill. He chose the evening hour, -when the soul is best prepared to take flight from -earthly to heavenly things. He waited until man -and beast had laid aside the burden and cares of -the day, and were in a receptive, contemplative -mood to study and appreciate the paintings -suspended from the paling blue dome of the sky.</p> -<p>He waited until he could hide himself from view -behind the bank of fleecy clouds moving lazily in -the same direction. Then he grasped the -invisible palette charged with colors and tints of -colors unknown to the artists of this world, and -seized the mystic, gigantic brush when</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The setting sun, and music at the close.</p> -<p>As the last taste of sweets is sweeted last,</p> -<p>Writ in remembrance more than things long past.</p> -<p>SHAKESPEARE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The time for this magic work was short. The -moment the passing clouds veiled his face it -began. From the very beginning it became -apparent that the hidden artist exhibited -superhuman skill. The most appreciative and -scrutinizing of his admirers felt powerless to -comprehend and much more to give a description of the -panoramic views which he painted with such -rapid succession on the sky, clouds and the dull -surface of the dreamy, listless ocean. With -intense interest we watched the constantly varying, -artistic display, felt keenly the shortcomings of -human art, and realized, to the fullest extent, the -force and truth of</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Who hath not proved how feebly words essay</p> -<p>To fix one spark of beauty's heavenly ray.</p> -<p>BYRON.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image47"> -<img alt="PAPAYA TREES" src="images/Image47.jpg" style="width: 341.5px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">TWO PAPAYA TREES</p> -</div> -<p>All painters place the greatest importance upon -a proper background for their pictures in order -to give light and shade a strong expression. So -does the sun. With a few strokes of the magic -brush, the deep blue of the horizon was wiped -out and replaced by the palest shade of blue, so -as to bring forth, in bolder relief, the resplendent -colors on the moving canvas of the clouds. The -artist fringed the margins of the clouds with -delicate lace of shining gold. Through clefts -and rents in the clouds the smiling face of the -painter peeped upon the beautiful evening -beyond. His work had only begun. In rapid turns -the clouds were converted into a sheet of gold -with a violet border that deepened into a vivid -crimson hue. As the artist disappeared, inch by -inch, under the limitless expanse of the ocean, -he wiped out the brilliant colors on the canvas of -clouds, and gilded the horizon with a sheet of -gold, deepening his favorite color, yellow, into an -orange hue, which remained unchanged until the -approaching darkness threw a drapery of sombre -black over the inspiring scene. Twilight shuns -the tropics. Day lapses into night almost -imperceptibly, and, with the setting of the sun, the -earth is wrapped in darkness. There is no -compromise in the tropics, between the rulers of day -and night. With the disappearance of the last -rays of the sun, the pale blue dome of the sky is -decorated with millions of flickering stars, -casting their feeble light upon land and sea through -the immeasurable ethereal medium which -separates heaven from earth.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The sun has lost his rage; his downward orb</p> -<p>Shoots nothing now but animating warmth</p> -<p>And vital lustre.</p> -<p>THOMSON.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>On the evening of which I speak, the short -twilight foreshadowed the appearance of the -heavenly advance-guard proclaiming the coming -of the Queen of Night.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>When the evening King gave place to night,</p> -<p>His beams he to his royal brother lent,</p> -<p>And so shone still in his reflected light.</p> -<p>DRYDEN.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Looking in the direction opposite from where -the monarch of the day had disappeared, the -cloudless sky brightened over the bare gray -mountain-peak, and the stars, in joyful -anticipation of the approaching event, abandoned their -stoic immobility and trembled in feverish -excitement. An impressive silence reigned in the little -city, broken now and then by the almost -noiseless footsteps of half-naked, barefoot natives, or -the clattering of the hoofs of a horse and -humming of the wheels of a passing cart, and, once -or twice, by the whirr of the only automobile in -the island, steered by an enterprising, prosperous -French merchant.</p> -<p>Nature awoke from her noonday slumber, the -glossy leaves resumed their natural shape and -freshness, the drooping flowers revived, -expanded and exhaled their fragrance, perfuming -the evening air. The birds had found shelter and -protection for the night in the leafy domes of -the many beautiful shade and ornamental trees. -It was solemn eveningtide, when the heart of -man is most receptive for noble and pure -impressions. It was the time to turn away the thoughts -from the busy, selfish world and reflect upon the -wonders of creation. It was the time to look -upward to the calm, pale, blue sky, feebly -illuminated by the soft light of countless tiny lamps -suspended by invisible cords from the limitless -space above. It was the time to look beyond -earthly things. It was the time to understand:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>The beauty of the world and the orderly arrangement -of everything celestial makes us confess that there is -an excellent and eternal nature, which ought to be -worshiped and admired by all mankind.</p> -<p>CICERO.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>We were speechless spectators of the passing -and coming. Our thoughts were turned to the -invisible hand that created the earth we inhabit -and all of the heavenly bodies, and which directs -their movements with infallible precision and -unfailing regularity. We thought of things -incomprehensible to man, of things far beyond the -grasp of the human mind, of things known only -to the Almighty Lord, Creator of all things in -heaven and earth.</p> -<p>With our eyes fixed on the gateway of entrance -of the Queen of Night, we patiently awaited her -arrival, anxious, however, to catch the first -glimpse of her beautiful face. No blare of -trumpets or bugle call announced her approach. She -rose in the sky silently, resplendent in her own -magic beauty, and her charms are always -sweetest when the nights are calm and peaceful. She -combined beauty with two of the most attractive -feminine virtues—modesty and gentleness. As -we watched her regal entrance into the sky, the -golden arch assumed the deep yellow hue of the -precious metal it resembled, and, in a few -moments, the pale rim of her sweet face rose over -the dark, bald mountain-peak, and ascended -slowly and majestically, higher and higher, away -from earthly things, on her journey through the -pathless sky. This evening she appeared in -perfect glory, permitting us to look into her full, -calm face. Her consort, the sun, had just -disappeared, leaving behind him a golden crescent -on the opposite horizon. She was following his -pathway and had taken possession of his throne -for the night. The departing sun and the -ascending moon were in strange and pleasing -contrast at the threshold of that beautiful night.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>O! belle nuit! mit preferable au jour!</p> -<p>Premier nuit a amour consacree!</p> -<p>En sa faveur, prolonge ta duree,</p> -<p>Et du soleil retarde le retour.</p> -<p>DE MALFILATRE.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>The moon loves to reign in peace and quietude. -She abhors the tumult of the battle-field and the -struggles of man for wealth and honor. She is -the friend of the wounded, the sick and the poor; -and the guardian angel of all those in need of -repose. As she ascended heavenward, the -rippling ocean became a great mirror, a mirror -worthy to reflect her beautiful face. The soft, -pale light streaming out from the silvery orb -cast phantom-like shadows in the forests, parks -and streets. Solemnity reigned supreme.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>On seas, on earth, and all that in them dwell,</p> -<p>A death-like and deep silence fell.</p> -<p>WALLER.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>Happy the people who respect and love the -Queen of Night and her reign of peace and rest! -Charming Queen! Retard your journey, -prolong your peaceful mission for the well-being of -your loyal subjects so much in need of your -calming influence and of your soft, soothing -light! To such petitions the goddess of the sky -has only one inflexible reply: "The universe is -my kingdom, the earth you live in is only one -of my smallest possessions. I must remain loyal -to all of my realms."</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image48"> -<img alt="PICKING COCOANUTS" src="images/Image48.jpg" style="width: 347.0px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">PICKING COCOANUTS</p> -</div> -<p>This evening in Tahiti had another and still -more sublime entertainment in store for us, a -spectacle which can be seen in perfection only in -the tropics, and, I imagine, Tahiti is the stage -more perfect than any other in the world for the -display of one of nature's grandest exhibitions. -The soft light of the rising moon and the myriads -of tiny, flickering stars furnished the -illumination; the mountains, forests, harbor and ocean, the -stage. We were roused from our reverie by -distant peals of thunder. Looking in the -direction whence these reports came, we saw black, -angry clouds hovering about the mountain-peaks -to the south and east of Papeete. The clouds -were too heavy for the rarified mountain air and -soon began to descend slowly but steadily until -they wrapped the towering summits in a cloak -of sombre black. The mountain-peaks, which -but a short time before were caressed by the -gentle, silvery light of the moon, were now -completely obscured. Where did these clouds come -from? No one could tell. No one could -mistake their movements. They appeared to have -had only one object in view, and that was to -embrace the mountain-range well below the -tree-line. Smaller clouds, fragments from the main -mass, moving more swiftly in the evening air, -impelled by the land-breeze, floated away from -the dark wall enveloping the mountainsides, -which seemed to possess some subtle, magnetic -power buried in the Immense piles of volcanic -rocks. At short intervals, great zigzag chains of -lightning shot through these dark clouds, -momentarily lighting up the dark, unbroken, -primeval forest. These dazzling, blinding flashes of -lightning were in strong contrast with the soft, -tropic moonshine that remained outside of the -limits of the aerial sea of clouds, which had -commenced to discharge a drenching rain. Fleecy -little wandering clouds now flecked the horizon, -strangely and variously painted by the -moonlight, shortly before the midnight hour. Through -fissures in these fleeting, snowy clouds, the moon -and stars often peeped at the grand spectacle -which was being enacted on the stage below. -Lightning and thunder came nearer and nearer -with the approach of the weeping mass of clouds. -The bolts of lightning must have found their -marks with unerring precision in the crags and -forest underneath the roof of dense clouds, as -from there came at short intervals deafening -peals of thunder reverberating through the calm -evening air far out over the surface of the -sleeping ocean, where the reverberations died out -in a faint rumbling.</p> -<p>This majestic but awesome sight was of short -duration. The pouring rain relieved the clouds -of their abnormal weight, and, balloon-like, they -rose, clearing the mountain-range, which then -again made its appearance in the soft, bewitching -moonlight of the tropics. Lightning and thunder -retreated with the disappearance of the clouds. -The atmosphere was cool and refreshing, purified -by the pouring rain and the furious electric storm. -At this stage of the nightly display in our -immediate vicinity, in front of the veranda of the little -hotel, in full view of the now deserted stage, -from the clear, cloudless sky, gigantic drops of -rain fell, sparkling in the magic moonlight like -diamonds that had become loosened and had -fallen from the jeweled crown of the Queen of -Night, whose throne had then reached the zenith -of the horizon.</p> -<p>Instead of wishing for an encore after such a -brilliant act given by nature's artists, we took -one more and last look at the serene, smiling, full -face of the moon, and were then prepared to -acknowledge reverently:</p> -<blockquote> -<p>What else is nature but God, and divine reason, -residing in the whole world and its parts.</p> -<p>SENECA.</p> -</blockquote> -</div> -<div class="section" id="iorana"> -<h1>IORANA!</h1> -<p>The South Sea Islanders have beautiful words -of welcome with which they meet the stranger. -The Samoan greets you with <em>talofa</em>; the -Hawaiian, with a clear, musical voice, welcomes you -with <em>aloha nui</em>; and the Tahitian, with an open, -friendly face and a smile, when he meets you, -addresses you with that beautiful greeting, -<em>iorana</em>. These euphonious words mean more -than the words of our language intended for the -same purpose; they come from the heart and are -addressed to the heart much more so than our -"Welcome," "How do you do?" "How are you?" -or "I am glad to see you." These Polynesian -words are not only words of welcome, but carry -with them the best wishes of the natives for the -stranger; they signify not only a formality, but -also express a sincerity which is so often lacking -in our conventional meetings with friends and -strangers. The visitor who remains long enough -in Tahiti to become acquainted with the natives -will find that their greeting, <em>iorana</em>, is verified -by their actions. The natives, educated and -ignorant, young and old, are polite, friendly and -hospitable to a fault. They are fond of making -little gifts to strangers, and if these are -reciprocated, they are really and honestly grateful. -The people are charming, the island beautiful, -and nature's storehouse never empty of the -choicest that the sea can supply and the soil -can produce. Any one who has seen Tahiti, the -Island Paradise, on leaving it, and ever after, -in recalling his experiences and observations in -this island of peace, rest, charms and pleasures, -will give expression to his feelings by repeating -to himself.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>Isle of Beauty!</p> -<p>Absence makes the heart grow fonder:</p> -<p>Isle of Beauty, fare thee well!</p> -<p>BAYLY.</p> -</blockquote> -<p align="center"><strong>THE END</strong></p> -</div> -<div class="section" id="addenda"> -<h1>ADDENDA</h1> -<blockquote> -<p>TAHITI</p> -<p>The waves that touch thy pebbly beach</p> -<blockquote> -With soft, caressing hand;</blockquote> -<p>The scented breezes winging past</p> -<blockquote> -Above thy favored land;</blockquote> -<p>The brilliant flowers, the glowing fruits,</p> -<blockquote> -Close to thy bosom pressed,</blockquote> -<p>All, all are singing one sweet song,</p> -<blockquote> -Whose soft refrain is, Rest!</blockquote> -<p>The sunset brush that tints thy skies</p> -<blockquote> -With wondrous, varied rays;</blockquote> -<p>The birds that fill thy woodland haunts</p> -<blockquote> -With music's roundelays;</blockquote> -<p>The sparkling streams meandering through</p> -<blockquote> -Thy valleys ever blest.</blockquote> -<p>All, all are breathing one sweet song.</p> -<blockquote> -Whose soft refrain is, Rest!</blockquote> -<p>The twilight hour that floods the soul</p> -<blockquote> -With waves of perfect calm.</blockquote> -<p>Then gives us to the Queen of Night,</p> -<blockquote> -Who pours her soothing balm;</blockquote> -<p>The still lagoon with coral reefs</p> -<blockquote> -Where beauty makes its nest.</blockquote> -<p>All, all are breathing one sweet song.</p> -<blockquote> -Whose soft refrain is, Rest!</blockquote> -<p>O Isle of Beauty! poets may</p> -<blockquote> -Dip pens in wells of light,</blockquote> -<p>Or soar aloft on Fancy's wings</p> -<blockquote> -In wild, aerial flight;</blockquote> -<p>But they can never voice thy charms,</p> -<blockquote> -O Island of the Blest!</blockquote> -<p>Whose very air is perfumed with</p> -<blockquote> -The fragrance rare of Rest!</blockquote> -<p>O Isle of Beauty! artists may</p> -<blockquote> -Coax every varied hue,</blockquote> -<p>To lay upon the canvas wide</p> -<blockquote> -A portrait true of you;</blockquote> -<p>But till they borrow heaven's power</p> -<blockquote> -To paint thee. Island Blest,</blockquote> -<p>The task is vain, O Land of Peace,</p> -<blockquote> -Whose every breeze sings Rest!</blockquote> -<p>Where man knows all the blissful charm</p> -<blockquote> -Of care-free, deep content;</blockquote> -<p>Where life seems one long holiday</p> -<blockquote> -In childish gladness spent;</blockquote> -<p>Where earth and air and sea and sky</p> -<blockquote> -So close to God seem pressed;</blockquote> -<p>Ah, loath am I to turn from thee.</p> -<blockquote> -Dear Land of Perfect Rest!</blockquote> -<p>MARY E. GRIFFIN.</p> -</blockquote> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image49"> -<img alt="ALLIGATOR PEAR TREE" src="images/Image49.jpg" style="width: 396.5px; height: 600.0px;" /> -<p class="caption">ALLIGATOR PEAR TREE</p> -</div> -</div> -<div class="section" id="the-story-of-ariitaimai-of-tahiti"> -<h1>THE STORY OF ARIITAIMAI OF TAHITI <a class="footnote-reference" href="#id3" id="id2">[1]</a></h1> -<blockquote> -<p>I wish peace, and any terms prefer</p> -<p>Before the last extremities of war.</p> -<p>DRYDEN.</p> -</blockquote> -<p>In one of the far-off isles of the South Seas, -in the garden-spot of the Pacific, in golden -Tahiti, about the year 1848, when Victoria was -a young queen and mother, when France was in -the throes of a second revolution, when the -United States, a young republic, was still on trial -before the old world, there was enacted one of -the most touching dramas history has ever -recorded, and this among a people considered -savages by the so-called civilized world, and -almost unknown until discovered through the -missionary fervor of a few priests. The place, -a small island, only a speck on the map; the -<em>dramatis personæ</em>, France, England and -America, the hereditary chiefs of a people who for -forty generations had known no other rulers, -a weak, vacillating native queen, and a -noble-hearted native woman who knew how to be at -the same time a loyal subject, a skilled diplomat, -and that rarer and more beautiful thing, a -faithful friend. If you would hear a story of -friendship pure and undefiled, listen to the story of -Ariitaimai of Papara, a Tahitian of noble birth, -a child of Nature in its wildest and grandest -aspect, rocked in a gigantic cradle of sea, sky -and towering mountains, in a land of palm -forests, where Nature has provided everything -necessary to the life of her children, and where -the pearls are the purest. If Cicero had known -the story of Ariitaimai he would not have -written in <em>De Amicitia:</em> "But where will you find -one who will not prefer to friendship, public -honors and power, one who will prefer the -advancement of his friend in public office to -his own? For human nature is too weak to -despise power." But to understand this -thrilling and eventful drama, we must listen first to -the chorus reciting something of the history of -this strange people, and of the position of -woman in a land where suffrage societies are -unknown, and where the story of the inequality -of the sexes had never been told by book or -priest. Tahiti, Matea and Moorea are known -as the Windward Islands of the Society Group -in the South Seas. The Leeward Islands -comprise the four kingdoms, Huahine, Borabora, -Raiatea and Tahaa, together with some smaller -islands, and are about one hundred and twenty -miles from Tahiti. But it has always been in -Tahiti, the gem of the Pacific, that the interest -has been centered, and it was here that the -struggle took place between the English and -the French for supremacy in the South Seas.</p> -<table class="docutils footnote" frame="void" id="id3" rules="none"> -<colgroup><col class="label" /><col /></colgroup> -<tbody valign="top"> -<tr><td class="label"><a class="fn-backref" href="#id2">[1]</a></td><td>This chapter is the product of the fertile pen of Dr. Lucy Waite. Surgeon-in-Chief of the Mary Thompson Hospital, Chicago.</td></tr> -</tbody> -</table> -<p>It was in 1769 that Captain Cook entered -Matavai Bay on his first voyage to observe the -transit of Venus. This spot is marked by a -stone monument and has been known ever since -as Point Venus. At this time Cook estimated -the number of inhabitants at two hundred -thousand. To-day, after the long contention between -the French and English for supremacy, after -the brave struggle of the natives against both -for independence, after all the ravages made by -the diseases introduced by foreigners, and -after years of a fearful mortality caused by the -enervating effect of civilization upon a people -suited only to be children of Nature, this goodly -number has been reduced to a pitiful eleven -thousand. In fact, our so-called nineteenth -century civilization has succeeded in practically -exterminating a people who could produce a -pearl among womankind, a rare and tender -soul, such an one as English history does not -give us, and France has produced but one, her -own Jeanne D'Arc.</p> -<p>The government of the island has always been -by chiefs and chiefesses, no distinction of sex -being made in laws of inheritance, the eldest -born inheriting the rank and estates and all the -authority which the title of chief conveys. -Many of the chiefesses appear to have been -exceedingly warlike, true Amazons, contending -with neighboring chiefs for more authority and -extensive possessions. Even as wives of the -chiefs, women went to war to help fight the -battles of their husbands and clans. It is -reported of one of the Pomares who was of a -peaceful disposition that in one hotly contested -encounter he fled to a neighboring island, -leaving his wife Iddeah to face the storm. History -says that she was a great warrior and carried -the contest to a successful issue for her husband -and their possessions. It is recorded of another -chief that he was not a warrior and left the -active campaigning to his wife. So it will be -seen that in the political life of Tahiti sex was -not considered. Accident of birth settled the -title, and the warlike spirit miade the warrior, -whether it resided in chief or chiefess. England -took a hand in the island politics at a time when -one of the weakest and most unpopular chiefs -was warring for the supremacy, and by assisting -and upholding his authority prolonged one of -the most disastrous wars in the history of Tahiti. -The Tahitians detested tyranny and the -insolence of a single ruler, and in their tribal system -of chiefs had a protection against despotism -which the foreigners, by their advocacy of the -cause of a special chief, afterwards Pomare I., -destroyed.</p> -<p>Before the invasion of the English, the -hereditary chief of each district held absolute sway -in his own province. Questions of common -interest were settled in the island councils by -majority vote, and it was in these deliberations -that the chiefs of Papara had for generations -held the balance of political power. Politically, -the change was disastrous. In olden times -whenever a single chief became arrogant and -threatened to destroy the rest, all the others united to -overthrow him and thus re-established the -political equilibrium.</p> -<p>Ariitaimai belonged to the Clan of Tevas, of -the chiefery of Papara, and the family of Tati. -She belonged to the clan which was ruled by -Opuhara, the last of the heathen chiefs who -went down in the conflict with Pomare II., -who with the help of English guns was made -absolute monarch of the island. This conflict -between Opuhara and the English, because -Pomare was only an instrument in their hands -to accomplish the conquest of the island, is -responsible for the bitter hatred of the genuine -natives for the foreigners and the missionaries.</p> -<p>Opuhara was considered the greatest warrior -and hero of the Tevas, and his death, the result -of a stratagem on the part of Pomare and the -English missionaries, is considered by his people -a veritable assassination. He fell by a shot fired -by a native missionary convert. Tati, one of the -under-chiefs of Papara, had been persuaded by -the English to approach Opuhara to negotiate -with him for submission. But Opuhara turned -on him with scorn. "Go, traitor," he said; -"shame on you! you, whom I knew as my eldest -brother, I know no more; and to-day I call this -my spear, 'Ourihere,' brotherless. Beware of it, -for if it meet you hereafter, it meets you as a foe. -I, Opuhara, have stood as Arii in Mona Temaiti, -bowing to no other Gods but those of my fathers. -There I shall stand to the end; and never shall -I bow to Pomara or to the Gods forced on us -by the white-faced man." With Opuhara -perished the last hope of the native patriots to -preserve a government of chiefs. His dying -words were all that was left to his clan of the -glory and power of Papara. "My children, -fight to the last! It is noon, and I, Opuhara, -the <em>ti</em> of Mona Temaiti, am broken asunder!" -He fell a martyr to his belief in the heathen -gods, and in the ancient inherited rights of his -people: a tribal government. His followers -have always firmly believed that Opuhara would -have won the contest had not the missionaries -brought their guns along with their Bibles.</p> -<p>It was this belief that Ariitaimai inherited -with the beautiful lands of Papara. She says in -her memoirs: "I am told that Opuhara's spear, -'Brotherless Ourihere,' is now in the Museum -of the Louvre. Even in those days there were -among all his warriors only two who could -wield it. If the missionaries have sometimes -doubted whether the natives rightly understood -the truths and blessings of Christianity, perhaps -one reason may be that the Tevas remember how -the missionaries fought for Pomare and killed -Opuhara."</p> -<p>Marama, the mother of Ariitaimai, was a -celebrated chiefess in her own right, the sole -heir of Marama, the head chief of Moorea, the -nearest island to Tahiti. She was a great heiress, -and the last representative of the sacred families -of these two islands. She was given in -marriage, as a political compromise and at the -special request of King Pomare, to Tati's son, the -head chief of Tahiti. It was also agreed that -all issue of the marriage should become the -adopted children of Pomare, according to an -ancient Tahitian custom. The family is a great -institution in Tahiti and any one whose parents -both by birth and adoption had been carried to -the family Marae with offerings to the gods, -enjoyed a rare social distinction. This -Ariitaimai could claim, so from her birth she was -looked upon by the islanders as an especially -favored and much-to-be-treasured maiden. It -may be that this great respect shown towards -her by the entire people did much to mold her -character. The Tahitian mother has little to say -in regard to the training of her first-born, as -this one is considered to belong to the family -as a whole, and all questions of general interest -are settled in family council. And so it was -with Ariitaimai. She saw little of her mother, -but was in constant touch with the family chiefs -from whom, no doubt, she learned lessons in -diplomacy, and from listening to their councils -she acquired that rare good judgment which -fitted her later to be the accepted advisor of her -teachers. She mastered both the French and -the English languages, and her memoirs show -a wonderful knowledge of the literature of both -countries, as well as a wide and comprehensive -reading of classical authors. While Ariitaimai -was growing to womanhood, the pride and -special care of the chiefs of Papara, another maiden -was receiving equal care and attention on a -neighboring island. Aimata of Raiatea, the -daughter of Pomare II., was only nine years -old when her father died and she was given into -the care of the head chief Uata, who was a good -and learned man.</p> -<div class="figure align-center" id="image50"> -<img alt="MASKED WARRIORS" src="images/Image50.jpg" style="width: 600.0px; height: 382.5px;" /> -<p class="caption">ANCIENT MASKED WARRIORS</p> -</div> -<p>These two young girls who were destined to -play such an important rôle in the history of -their country, grew up under much the same -influences and developed characters as widely -different as the antipodes. They saw each other -only occasionally until Aimata's mother sent one -day for Ariitaimai to make a long visit at the -royal castle, as was the custom among the -islanders, as Pomare had claimed her as his -adopted daughter according to the ante-natal -contract. Here blossomed and grew the -friendship which was destined later to save to Pomare -IV. her throne, and to deliver Tahiti from a war -which could only have resulted in the -extermination of the native population and the destruction -of the island as an independent government. The -real struggle between France and England for -the possession of the island began in 1836, when -two French priests landed at Tahiti to convert -not the pagans to Christianity but Protestant -Christians to the Roman faith. Aimata now -become Pomare IV., promptly ordered their -arrest and expulsion. The French priests made -a protest to their government and Louis Philippe -sent a frigate to Papeete, the harbor city, with -an ultimatum, and the Queen was obliged to -yield. The English consul and the missionaries -contested the occupation of the French, and -another frigate was sent to Tahiti. Queen -Pomare now appealed to Queen Victoria and -offered to submit to a British protectorate. She -also sent a protest to the government of the -United States, against allowing the French to -forcibly occupy Tahiti. But the English Queen -was busy with more important home affairs, and -neglected the appeal from the little island so far -away, and the protest to the United States was -apparently ignored. By a lack of appreciation -of the Queen's communication, the United States -lost the control of the gem of all the Pacific -isles, and lost also a rare opportunity to aid -and protect a brave people in their struggle for -independence. This attitude of England and the -United States left the contest to be settled -between the natives and the French. After a -desultory war lasting over four long, miserable -years, with the advantage first on one side and -then on the other, the French government decided -to end the matter and sent two frigates to the -island. The government had offered previously -to this to place Pomare permanently on the -throne under a French protectorate, but she -would not consent to this, looking constantly for -help from the English who had done so much -for her father. So she left Tahiti, the scene of -the contest, and fled to Raiatea to her own -family for protection, while waiting for the help -which never came.</p> -<p>Ariitaimai, in her own beautiful home at Papara, -pondered over the wretched state of her beloved -country and her heart was sore both for her -idolized friend and poor bleeding Tahiti. Was -there no way out of this Slough of Despond into -which the foreigners had plunged her unhappy -country? She knew the temper of the island -chiefs and that they had sworn to die fighting -for the independence of their country. She -remembered the fate of Tati, who had been -branded a traitor with Opuhara's last breath -because he counseled submission to the English, -and she dared not propose to them any -compromising measures. She looked out despairingly -over the trackless sea, and appealingly up at the -towering mountains which had been her -companions during prosperity and adversity, but no -answer came to her anxious questionings. Then -suddenly, one day, word was brought to her by an -old woman of her clan that two French frigates -had landed in the harbor of Tahiti. She knew -this meant the end, unless Queen Pomare could -be persuaded to return to Tahiti and accept the -offer of the French. The old crone who had -brought her the news said to her: "Don't you -know that you are the first in the Island, and -that it remains in your hands to save all this -and your land?" Then Ariitaimai hesitated no -longer, but hastened to the governor and told -him what she had heard. He replied: "You have -heard the truth. The colonel commanding the -troops has heard of so many instances of insult -given to the French that we have decided at last -to go out and finish up the affair." This brusque -answer aroused in Ariitaimai all the stored-up -energy of years. She became immediately the -diplomatic representative of her people, and -begged the governor to give her a few days that -she might see the chiefs and make at least an -effort to avert the terrible havoc to lives and -property which this would cause. Ariitaimai was -well known to the governor, and although -evidently amused that a young woman should take -upon herself this difficult task, readily consented. -Like two generals they sat down and talked over -all the terms of the peace; the governor agreeing -to restore Pomare to her throne if she would -return immediately, and to leave the chiefs in -possession of their estates and control each of -his own chiefery, all to be under the protection -of the French flag. This, he said, they were -willing to do, although the Queen had broken her -written agreement with them, and by deserting -her country and throne had absolved them from -all obligations to her. Before the conclusion of -the interview Ariitaimai had won the respect and -admiration of the governor, and from that time -on they worked together to bring about a -peaceable settlement of the long and disastrous war. -The journey which she was obliged to make in -order to meet the chiefs in council was a long -one, and while she was making her preparations -the governor's own aid-de-camp arrived ready -to accompany her, bringing the governor's -horses and all necessary passports. She says in -her memoirs: "I knew that my influence with -the natives would be sufficient to save us from -any trouble with them." Arrived at last at the -principal native fort where the chiefs were -assembled, her first act showed her the accomplished -diplomat. She sent a trusty messenger for -Nuutere, the one whose influence against peace -she most feared, and who with the other chief, -Teaatoro, practically controlled the situation. -When he came out to see her she took him by -the hand and said: "My object in coming here -is to bring peace, and I have counted on you -for the sake of old friendship to be my speaker -in this trying instance." She quaintly adds: -"He was very much perplexed at this," evidently -not understanding why she could not speak for -herself as she had often done before. But to -her surprise Ariitaimai found the old chief very -much broken in spirit and quite ready to listen -to her arguments for peace, and she soon had -his promise to speak for the acceptance of the -governor's proposition. Human nature is very -much the same the world over, whether encased -in a brown skin or white. Nuutere called -Teaatoro to him, and, after a hasty consultation, -came over and whispered to Ariitaimai that -Teaatoro would be all right. This practically -settled the matter, but as in all political -assemblies the usual formalities must be gone through -with and Nuutere called upon each one of the -chiefs for his opinion. The speakers all teemed -with love and admiration for my heroine and -I can not refrain from making some quotations. -Nuutere, after stating the object of the meeting, -called upon Teaatoro to make the first speech. -He said: "We are all as one person in this -meeting, and we have suffered together as -brothers. We have heard what the object of -this lone woman's visit amongst us is, solely -for our good and that of our children. What can -we say to this? We can only return her one -answer, which is to thank her for the trouble -and danger she has taken upon herself, for -the peace she has brought, and she must return -to the French commander with this our answer. -We have been five months on the point of -starvation. We lost a great many of our -men at Tamavao. The best of our blood was -spilled at Mahaena. At Piha-e-atata, our -young men were slain. Our Queen left us in -the midst of our troubles without the least -sorrow for us. We have heard no more of the help -which was promised us by Great Britain." -Another chief rose and said: "Ariitaimai, you have -flown amongst us, as it were, like the two birds -of Ruataa and Teena. You have brought the -cooling medicine of vainu into the hearts of the -chiefs. Our hearts yearn for you and we can -not in words thank you; you have brought us -the best of all goods, which is peace. You have -done this when you thought we were in great -trouble, and ran the risk of losing our lives and -property. Your people will prove to you in the -future that your visit will always remain in their -memory." The old chief of her own district -turned toward Ariitaimai and said only: "As -you are my head, my eyes, my hands and my -feet, what more can I say? What you have -decided we accept and will carry out." One -dissenting voice only was heard, a young chief -who had but lately come into his possessions and -was anxious to distinguish himself as a warrior. -He called out in a loud voice: "Why have you -decided upon this peace so soon? Tahiti is not -broken asunder. We could play with the French -until we could get aid of Great Britain, who has -formally promised to help us through in this -war. I think you have all done wrong." But -the young man had his lesson to learn and it was -promptly taught him by Ariitaimai's spokesman. -The spirit of young America is not appreciated -in Tahiti, where reverence for age and worship -of the ancestors is a vital part of the native pagan -religion. Nuutere turned on the young man -and asked: "Where were you, that consider -yourself such a fighting man, in the fights which -have already happened? I have never perceived -you ahead of the others. You do not excel the -youngest of our men in all of these battles. -What are you known as in the annals of the -country which allows you to get up and speak -when your chiefs have already given the word?" -Ariitaimai set out immediately on her return -trip, this time escorted by ten of the chiefs. -Although they made all possible haste the time -had already expired before they reached the -governor's headquarters, and preparations were -being made to attack one of the native forts, the -officers having concluded that her errand had -been a failure. The governor, seeing her at a -distance, rode out to meet her and helped her -from her horse. He asked her anxiously in -Tahitian, "Is it peace?" and she replied that it -was peace and that everything was all right with -the chiefs. He held her hand as he said with -great feeling: "The Tahitians should never -forget you; but your work is not finished. You -must now go to Raiatea and bring us back the -Queen." So Ariitaimai started on her second -and more difficult errand. At first Queen Pomare -refused to receive her, sending word that she -was told that she had gone over to the French; -but later she granted her an interview in which -she cried very much, upbraiding her friend for -the stand she had taken, and accusing her of -betraying her interests to the French.</p> -<p>The Queen then sent for the chiefs of her -own family with whom she had taken refuge, -and, after a prolonged conference, they advised -her not to return. She said to Ariitaimai: "I -trust to the word of Great Britain, who has -promised us to send ships and men to fight our -cause and to keep us an independent state, and -I will not return and be under the French." So -after repeated pleading poor Ariitaimai was -obliged to return to the governor with Pomare's -answer. He was much disappointed but said as -the chiefs of Tahiti had agreed to peace and as -he had nothing to do with the chiefs of Raiatea -they must decide on another monarch, and -offered to make Ariitaimai queen of Tahiti in -Pomare's place. But this the faithful friend -would not listen to, and begged the governor to -allow her again to see Pomare, as she believed -that when she had had time to think the matter -over she would change her mind. To this the -governor very reluctantly consented, as he was -entirely out of patience with Pomare, and would -much have preferred to make Ariitaimai queen, -which could have been done with great -propriety, as she was at that time the head chiefess -of the island. After a stormy trip she arrived -again at Raiatea and this time was fortunate -enough to find her friend Aimata alone, the -chiefs having gone to an assembly to consult -over the affairs of their own island. This time -our faithful ambassadress did not hasten her -visit. She renewed and strengthened the ties -of friendship which had bound them together -since their early girlhood, and she records in -her memoirs that they had a beautiful visit -together before any mention was made of the -real object of her coming. The charming way -in which she speaks in her memoirs of Pomare's -flight shows the tenderness of her affection -for her friend. She says, calling her by her -girlhood name: "The unfortunate Aimata had -troubles of every sort, domestic, political, -private and public, until at last the missionaries -English and French, fought so violently for -control of her and the island that she was fairly -driven away." With all her acuteness and -learning in other matters, she seems to have had no -realization of the true character of the woman she -so beautifully idealized. She still saw in the Queen -the qualities she loved in the young girl, and -her affection blinded her to the defects in her -friend's character which entirely unfitted her for -the position she occupied. Events do not move -as rapidly in Tahiti as in America, and our young -diplomat, having the governor's promise to await -her return, took her own time. She remained -with the Queen two months and had the -satisfaction of returning home with her promise to -sail for Tahiti as soon as her favorite schooner -Ana could be made ready. But, before sailing, -another idea took possession of the unreasonable -woman and she sent word to the Tahitian chiefs -that as the English had brought her to Raiatea -she would return only in an English ship, and -demanded that one be sent to fetch her.</p> -<p>This unexpected and preposterous demand -plunged poor Ariitaimai into the deepest grief. -For the first time a note of complaint of her -friend appears in her memoirs. The French -governor laughed at the demands of Pomare and -again offered the throne to Ariitaimai, and -argued long to prove to her that it was her duty -to accept it. Where in history is the woman who -would not now have felt that she had exhausted -all the demands of friendship, who would not -by this time have been tempted by the dazzling -prospect of a throne, upheld by a powerful -governor who had become her devoted friend and -admirer, to be surrounded by chiefs who had -already accepted her leadership, and who, for -years, had held her position among them as -chief ess as a sacred trust? But no ambitious -dreams disturbed the clear judgment of this -simple-minded woman. She had set herself a -task and her only ambition was to accomplish it. -Not for one moment did the loyal woman waver -in her devotion to her friend. She refused -absolutely to entertain a thought of the queenship, -and retired to her country home almost in -despair. She says very simply in her memoirs: -"We then remained at home in great trouble -and did not know what was to be done next. -The governor on several occasions offered to -make me the sovereign of the island in place of -Pomare, which, however, I could not entertain." -It is in this simple and childlike manner she -describes all the events in this perplexing -situation. Not by one word does she anywhere -intimate that she is doing anything extraordinary -or praiseworthy or more than her simple duty.</p> -<p>She was not allowed to remain long inactive. -Word came to her that the governor and chiefs -were getting very restless and impatient at the -unsettled state of the island politics and had -decided not to negotiate further with the Pomares; -and, moreover, that a document to this effect had -been already drawn up and practically agreed -upon. This roused her again to see the -governor; and this time Fate put a powerful weapon -in her hands. Just as she was leaving her home -an old native preacher came along and secretly -gave her a letter from her beloved Aimata. She -wrote that she was sorry that she had not come -back when she promised, that she was much -distressed at the news from Tahiti, that she was -an unhappy woman and, if not too late, she would -surely come back if her faithful friend would -come for her. Happy Ariitaimai fairly flew to -the governor. What after all if it should be too -late! She had never gone to the governor with -so much fear and trepidation, and her fears were -in no way lessened by his reception of her request -that she be allowed to go once more to Raiatea -and make a last effort to bring back the Queen. -This request for the first time irritated the -governor toward her. He said: "Have you not done -enough for the Pomares that you should -continue to go down to fetch them?" and he showed -her the document which she had heard of but -which was much worse than she supposed, as it -proposed to break up the act of protectorate -that had been already made and distinctly stated -that as Ariitalmai had refused to be made queen -he would make the island a French colony at -once. But with that precious letter in her bosom -she would not be thwarted in her purpose, and -did not leave the governor until she had received -his very grudging permission to see Pomare and, -if she consented to return, to take her to Moorea -and let him know. With this she was obliged -to be contented. More she could not accomplish -without divulging the secret of her letter, and -this, she argued, would be disloyal to her friend; -for was it not a secret letter sent to her at great -risk? No, she would accomplish her purpose -without humiliating her Queen. Pomare should -return at the request of the governor without -losing aught of her queenly dignity.</p> -<p>And now this little drama draws rapidly to a -close. Ariitaimai made her third trip to Raiatea -and accompanied Pomare to Moorea, and sent -word to the governor that he would find them -there. Obedient to this gently expressed -command of his ambassadress, the governor very -courteously went to Moorea in person to receive -the Queen and bring her back to her home and -throne. In the same dispassionate style -Ariitaimai tells of the homeward journey: "As we all -went on board a salute was fired. We sailed -around the island, flying the protectorate flag at -the fore, to inform the people of these islands -that their Queen had returned. We then -continued our route for Papeete and on arriving -there the forts from the shore saluted the flag." -But O! the irony of Fate! As they entered the -harbor what a sight met the eyes of the poor -Queen! Both British and American ships were -anchored there, having come at last in answer -to her appeals, but only in time to see her placed -on her throne by the grace of the hated French, -But peace had been bought too dearly to be -broken now even by this vacillating queen, and -the British and American officers, seeing the -situation, had the good sense to assist in the -general festivities celebrating the long-looked-for -peace. The memoirs conclude with this simple -statement: "The Queen remained several hours -on board the steamer as the governor wished the -natives to see that the Queen had really come -back. There were soldiers in line on shore to -receive us and we were conducted to the -governor's house. The peace of the island was then -decided upon. On arriving at the governor's -house we found all the commanders of the troops -and vessels there and before them I was thanked -by Governor Bruat for what I had done for my -country."</p> -<blockquote> -<p>When a world of men</p> -<p>Could not prevail with all their oratory</p> -<p>Yet hath a woman's kindness overruled.</p> -<p>SHAKESPEARE.</p> -</blockquote> -</div> -</div> -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TAHITI; THE ISLAND PARADISE ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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