diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/69945-0.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/69945-0.txt | 6415 |
1 files changed, 0 insertions, 6415 deletions
diff --git a/old/69945-0.txt b/old/69945-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 84e945e..0000000 --- a/old/69945-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6415 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Tahiti; the island paradise, by -Nicholas Senn - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Tahiti; the island paradise - -Author: Nicholas Senn - -Release Date: February 4, 2023 [eBook #69945] - -Language: English - -Produced by: James Simmons - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TAHITI; THE ISLAND -PARADISE *** - -TAHITI THE ISLAND PARADISE - -Transcriber's Note - -This book was transcribed from scans of the original found at the -Internet Archive. Variant spellings are not corrected. Some -illustrations are rotated. - - - - - -TAHITI - -THE - -ISLAND PARADISE - -BY - -NICHOLAS SENN, M. D., Ph. D., LL. D., C. M. - -Professor of Surgery in the University of Chicago - -Professor and Head of the Surgical Department in Rush Medical College - -Surgeon-in-Chief of St. Joseph's Hospital - -Attending Surgeon of the Presbyterian Hospital - -Lieutenant-Colonel and Chief of the Operating Staff with the Army in - -the Field during the Spanish-American War - -Surgeon-General of Illinois - -WITH FIFTY HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS - -CHICAGO - -W. B. CONKEY COMPANY - - - -COPYRIGHT, 1906, - -BY - -W. B. CONKEY COMPANY - -PREFACE - -The far-away little island of Tahiti is the gem of the South Pacific -Ocean. If any place in this world deserves to be called a paradise, -Tahiti can make this claim. This charming spot in the wide expanse of -the peaceful ocean has attractions which we look for in vain anywhere -else. From a distance, the grandeur of its frowning cliffs rivets the -eye, and, in coming nearer, its tropic beauty charms the visitor and -imprints upon his memory pictures single and panoramic that neither -distance nor time can efface. The scenic beauty of this island is -unsurpassed. The calming air, redolent with the perfume of fragrant -flowers of exquisite beauty, on the seashore, in the valleys and on the -precipitous mountain sides; the luxuriant vegetation; the forest -fruit-gardens and the sweet music of the surf remind one of the original -habitation of man. The natives, a childlike people, friendly, courteous -and hospitable, are the happiest people on earth, free from care and -worries which in other less favored parts of the world make life a -drudgery. - -Tahiti is the only place in the world where the people are not obliged -to work. The forests furnish bread and fruit and the sea teems with -fish. The climate is so mild that the wearing of clothing is rather a -matter of choice than of necessity, and the bamboo huts that can be made -with little or no expense in half a day with the willing help of the -neighbors, meet all the requirements of a home. The stranger will find -here throughout the year a climate and surroundings admirably adapted to -calm his nervous system and procure repose and sleep. - -In writing this little book I have made free use of the "Memoirs of -Arrii Taimai E., Marama of Eimeo, Terii rere of Tooarai, Terii nui of -Tahiti, Tauraatua I Amo" (Paris, 1901). The authoress was the mother of -Tati, one of the most influential present chiefs of Tahiti, and, as her -several titles show, she was of noble birth. She was an eye-witness of -many of the most stirring political events in the history of the island. -Only fifty copies of this book were printed and only three remained in -possession of her son. He was kind enough to give me one of them, which, -after making liberal use of it, I presented to the library of the -University of Chicago, through its late lamented president, Dr. W. R. -Harper. I also acknowledge my indebtedness to the works of Captain Cook, -"A Voyage to the Pacific" (London, 1784), and to the book of Baron Ferd. -von Mueller, "Select Extra-tropical Plants" (Melbourne, 1885). - -N. Senn. - -Chicago, 1906. - -TABLE OF CONTENTS - - - PREFACE - - TAHITI THE ISLAND PARADISE - - THE ISLAND OF TAHITI - - OCEAN VOYAGE - - THE ATOLL ISLANDS - - THE LANDING AT PAPEETE - - THE CITY OF PAPEETE - - TOPOGRAPHY OF THE ISLAND - - THE CLIMATE - - HISTORY OF THE ISLAND - - POMARE, THE ROYAL FAMILY OF TAHITI - - MISSIONARY RULE - - WARS BETWEEN PROTESTANT AND CATHOLIC MISSIONARIES - - THE LAST WAR - - THE NATIVES - - FOREIGNERS IN TAHITI - - BUSINESS IN TAHITI - - OLD TAHITI - - RELIGION OF THE NATIVES - - THE INSIGNIA OF TAHITIAN ROYALTY - - DISEASES OF TAHITI - - PRESENT PREVAILING DISEASES - - THE KAHUNA OR NATIVE DOCTOR - - PHYSICIANS IN TAHITI - - HÔPITAL MILITAIRE - - THE ISLAND OF PLENTY - - TAHITI'S NATURAL BREAD SUPPLY - - THE COCOANUT, THE MEAT OF THE TAHITIANS - - THE COCOA-PALM - - THE FORESTS OF TAHITI - - NOTED FOREST TREES OF TAHITI - - VANILLA CULTIVATION IN TAHITI - - THE RURAL DISTRICTS - - POINT VENUS - - FAUTAHUA VALLEY - - VILLAGE OF PAPARA - - IORANA! - - ADDENDA - - THE STORY OF ARIITAIMAI OF TAHITI - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - -- The Royal Family -- Harbor and Principal Port of Papeete -- Lighthouse, and Cook Monument at Haapape -- King Pomare V -- Pomare IV -- View of Moorea -- Tahiti from the Harbor of Papeete -- In the Shadow of the Palm Forest -- The S. S. "Mariposa" Leaving the Harbor of Papeete -- Royal Palace (Headquarters of the Governor) -- Avenue of Purranuia, Papeete -- Native Village by the Sea -- Native Hut close by the Sea -- Prince Hinoi -- A Tahitian Home -- Tahitian Bamboo House -- Tomb of the Last King of Tahiti, Pomare V -- Tahitian Women in Ancient Native Dress -- Tahiti Girls in Native Dress -- A Group of Native Girls -- Native Girl in Modern Dress -- Tahitian Ladies in Zulu Dress -- Native Musicians and Native Dance -- Tahitian Girl in Native Festive Dress -- At Home -- A Home by the Sea — Raiatea -- Fisherman's Home -- Native Settlement -- Group of Tahitian Children -- A Case of Far-Advanced Leprosy Affecting All Limbs -- A Leper of Tahiti -- Military Hospital in Papeete -- Tahitian Fruit Vender -- Preparing Breadfruit -- Sapodilla -- Copra Establishment -- Government Wharf — Papeete -- Corner in Papeete -- A View of Fautahua Valley -- Avenue of Fautahua -- Cascade of Fautahua -- Bridge across Fautahua near Waterfall -- Lagoon and Reef on the Ninety-Mile Road -- On the Ninety-Mile Road -- Fishermen of Papeete -- Tahitian Canoe with Outrigger -- Two Papaya Trees -- Picking Cocoanuts -- Alligator Pear Tree -- Ancient Masked Warriors - - - -TAHITI THE ISLAND PARADISE - -When the Almighty Architect of the universe created the earth we -inhabit, He manifested His wisdom, goodness and foresight in adapting, -in a most admirable manner, the soil, climate, and animal and vegetable -life for the habitation of man, the supreme work of creation. By the -gradual and progressive geographical distribution of man over the -surface of the earth, he has become habituated to diverse climates and -environments, and has found conditions most congenial to his comfort and -the immediate necessities of life. - - In cold, laborious climes, the wintry North - - Brings her undaunted, hardy warriors forth, - - In body and in mind untaught to yield, - - Stubborn of soul, and steady in the field; - - While Asia's softer climate, form'd to please. - - Dissolves her sons in indolence and ease. - - LUCANUS. - -It required centuries for the Esquimau to become acclimated to the -inhospitable polar regions, and make them his favorite abode; the people -who drifted toward the equator gradually became inured to the climate of -the tropics and accustomed to the manner of living in countries where -the perennial heat paralyzes the physical and mental energies, and -undermines the health of strangers coming from a more temperate climate. -Nature has made ample provision for man in all habitable parts of the -earth. The regions of ice and snow are inhabited by fur-bearing animals, -and, at certain seasons of the year, are frequented by a large variety -of aquatic birds in great abundance, which supply the natives with food -and clothing, while in the tropics, man has little or no need of fuel -and clothing, and, with very little exertion, he can subsist on the -fruits of the forests, and on the food so liberally supplied by the sea. - -The intensity of the struggle for life increases with the distance north -and south from the temperate zones, where climatic conditions -necessitate active exercise and where the necessities of life can only -be obtained by the hardest kind of labor. The climate of the tropics, on -the other hand, is very generous to man. The forests are rich in fruit -yielding trees which Nature plants, which receive little or no care, yet -which bear fruit throughout the year. Wherever the cocoa-palm grows in -abundance, there can be no famine, because this tree yields a rich -harvest of nutritious fruit from one end of the year to the other -without fail, as it is never affected to any considerable extent by -drouth and other conditions which so often bring failure to the orchards -in more temperate climates. The continuous summer and the wonderful -fertility of the soil in tropic and subtropic countries reward richly -the labor of the husbandman by two and sometimes three harvests a year, -as nature's forces require no rest, no slumber there. - -Life in a changeable, severe climate is full of hardships; in the -tropics, of ease and leisure. The nearer we come to the tropics, the -closer we approach the conditions of primitive man. The necessities of -life increase as we recede on either side of the equatorial line. The -dreamy, easy, care-free life in the tropics is in strong contrast with -the severe and arduous struggles for existence in countries less favored -by the resources of nature. - -Among the trees in the Garden of Eden, the palm tree was undoubtedly the -most beautiful, and it remains to-day the queen of the forests of the -seacoast in the tropics. The palm-clad isles of the South Sea bear a -closer resemblance to the description of the Garden of Eden than any -other of the many parts of the world that I have ever seen; and of -these, Tahiti is a real paradise on earth. There is no country nor other -isle where Nature has been so liberal in the distribution of her gifts. -No other island can compare in natural beauty with Tahiti, the gem of -the South Pacific Ocean. It is the island where life is free of care. It -is the island where the natives are fed, clothed and housed by nature. -It is the island where man is born, eats his daily bread without being -forced to labor, sleeps and dreams away his life free from worry, and -enjoys the foretaste of the eternal paradise before he dies. It is the -island which must have been born - - In the morning of the world, - - When earth was nigher heaven than now. - - BROWNING. - -It is the island of which the poet must have been musing when he wrote: - - Amid an isle around whose rocky shore - - The forests murmur and the surges roar, - - A goddess guards in her enchanted dome. - - POPE. - -THE ISLAND OF TAHITI - -About three thousand six hundred miles south by southwest from San -Francisco are the Society Islands, a small archipelago in the South -Pacific Ocean, in latitude 16 to 18 degrees south, longitude 148 to 155 -degrees west. Captain Cook named this group in honor of the Royal -Society of London. The largest two of these islands, Tahiti and Moorea, -are of volcanic origin, mountainous and heavily timbered; the remaining -islands are small, low, of coral origin, and are called atolls. In -approaching the archipelago from San Francisco, a few of these -palm-fringed atoll islands come first into view, forming a pleasing -foreground to the rugged mountains of Tahiti and its smaller neighbor, -Moorea, which are sighted almost at the same time. After a voyage over -the desert ocean of thirteen days (all this time out of sight of land), -to gaze on the most beautiful islands of this group is a source of -exquisite pleasure. - - Sea-girt isles, - - That like to rich and various gems, inlay - - The unadorned bosom of the deep. - - MILTON. - -The South Pacific Ocean is the natural home of the coral polyps, which -are great island-builders, using the volcanic material as a foundation -for the coral superstructure. As these minute builders can live only in -shallow water, they use submerged mountain peaks for their foundations, -converting them into low atolls, and building reefs around the base of -the high volcanic islands. Most of the Society Islands are of coral -formation perched upon submerged mountain summits. The island of Tahiti -is small, of little commercial interest, and hence it is comparatively -unknown to the masses of the people. Very few who left the schoolroom -twenty-five years ago would be able to locate it without consulting a -geography, and many have even forgotten the name. The children fresh -from school recall it in connection with the difficulty they encountered -in finding the little dot in the great, trackless South Pacific Ocean, -surrounded by a group of still smaller specks, representing the -remainder of the little archipelago to which it belongs. - -Tahiti is nearly four thousand miles distant from San Francisco, in a -southwesterly direction, below the equator, in latitude 17, hence in a -similar latitude to that of the Hawaiian Islands, which are situated -about the same distance north of the equator. - - - -I had heard much of the natural beauty of this far-off island and its -interesting inhabitants, and decided to spend my midwinter vacation in -1904 in paying it a visit. Formerly the passage from San Francisco had -to be made by a schooner, and required several months. For the last four -years the island has been made readily accessible by a regular steamer -service. The staunch steamer, _Mariposa_, of the Oceanic Steamship Company -of San Francisco, sails from that port every thirty-six days, makes the -trip in twelve or thirteen days, and remains at Papeete, the capital of -the island, four days, which give the visitor ample time to visit the -most interesting points and make the desired observations. The track of -the steamer is over that part of the Pacific Ocean which is -comparatively free from violent storms, between the storm centers east -and west from it. The prevailing trade-winds cool off the tropical heat -in the vicinity of the equator, rendering the voyage at all seasons of -the year a pleasant one. The steamer has a tonnage of three thousand -tons, the service is excellent, and the table all that could be desired. -I know of no better way to spend a short mid-winter vacation than a trip -to Tahiti, the island paradise, the most interesting and beautiful of -all islands. - -January and February are the months when the fruit is most abundant, and -the climate most agreeable. The twenty-five days of voyage on the ocean, -the few days on shore occupied by a study of its natives, their customs, -manner of living, by visits to the various points of historic interest, -and by the greatest of all genuine pleasures, the contemplation of -nature's choicest exhibitions in the tropics, are all admirably adapted -to procure physical rest and pleasure, and pleasing as well as -profitable mental occupation. A trip to Tahiti will prove of particular -benefit to those who are in need of mental rest. The absence of anything -like severe storms on this trip should be a special inducement, for -those who are subject to seasickness, to travel there. - -The steamer is well adapted for service in the tropics, the cabins are -roomy and comfortable. Capt. J. Rennie is one of the most experienced -commanders of the fleet, a good disciplinarian and devoted to the safety -and comfort of his passengers. While the steamer can accommodate seventy -cabin passengers, the number seldom exceeds twenty-five. The tourist -therefore escapes crowding and noise, so trying to the nerves, and so -common on the transatlantic steamers and other more frequented ocean -routes. - -OCEAN VOYAGE - -The steamer _Mariposa_ leaves the San Francisco wharf at eleven o'clock -a.m.,—an excellent time for the passengers to enjoy the beauties of the -bay and the Golden Gate, to see the rugged coast of California gradually -disappear in the distance during the course of the afternoon, and to -prepare himself for the first night's sleep in the cradle of the deep. -The second day out, and until the mountains of Tahiti come in sight, the -traveler will see nothing but the floating tavern in which he lives, its -inmates, the inky blue ocean, the sky, clouds, and, occasionally, -sea-gulls, and isolated schools of flying fish. The steamer's track is -over an unfrequented part of the ocean. The passenger looks in vain for -a mast or white-winged sails, or puffs of smoke in the distance, sights -so often seen on more frequented ocean highways. The steamer crosses an -ocean desert little known, but out of reach of the violent storms, so -frequent near the coasts, on both sides free from reefs and rocks, as -this part of the ocean is of unusual depth, amounting in many places to -three miles. Stranding of the vessel, or collision with others, the -greatest dangers incident to sea travel, are therefore reduced to a -minimum on this route. Although this course is an unusually lonely one, -the interested observer will find much to see and enjoy. The vast -expanse of the ocean impresses the traveler from day to day and grows -upon him as the distance from the coast increases. - - Illimitable ocean! without bound, - - Without dimensions, where length, breadth, and height, - - And time, and place, are lost - - MILTON. - -The boundless ocean desert, mirror-like when at rest, clothed by gentle -ripples and ceaseless wavelets when fanned by the trade-winds, is a -picture of peace and contentment. - - The winds with wonder whist, - - Smoothly the waters kiss'd, - - Whispering new joys to the mild ocean. - - MILTON. - -But even here in the most peaceful part of the Pacific, when angered by -the fury of a heavy squall, a diminutive storm agitates the waters into -foam-crested waves, which, for a short time at least, impart to the ship -an intoxicated gait. The effect of sun, moon and starlight on the -smooth, undulating, heaving, billowing, tossing, storm-beaten surface of -the ocean, is marvelous. When all is quiet, and the passenger is only -conscious of the vibratory movements imparted to the ship by the -ceaseless action of the faithful screw, and the lights of heaven are -veiled by a curtain of dark clouds, the beautiful blue gives way to a -sombre black. When the tropic sun shines with all his force, the color -of the water fairly vies with the deep blue of the sky, and the nearer -we approach our destination, the tints of blue grow deeper and deeper, -until at last they are of perfect indigo. - - - -The moon and starlight have a magic effect on the surface of the water. -The long evenings give the passengers the exquisite pleasure of watching -the journey of the moon across the starlit heavenly dome, growing, night -after night, from a mere sickle to her full majestic size, and of -observing the effects of the gradually increasing intensity of the light -issuing from the welcome visitor of the night, on the glassy mirror of -water beneath. The star-bedecked pale dome of the tropic sky is, in -itself, a picture that rivets the attention of the traveler who loves -and studies the book of nature. The short twilight over, "these blessed -candles of the night" (Shakespeare) are lighted, and send their feeble -light down upon the bosom of the ocean. - -If the sky is clear, the illuminating power of the moon at its best, and -the ocean calm, its surface is transformed into a boundless sheet of -silver. This magic effect of moonlight on the surface of the sleeping -ocean is magnified by passing fleecy, or dark, storm-threatening clouds. -The fleeting, fleecy clouds often veil, only in part, the lovely, full -face of the moon, and through fissures, the rays of light issue, and, -falling upon the water, are reflected in the form of silvery patches or -pathways, corresponding in size and outline with the temporary window in -the passing cloud. It is when the moon is about to be hidden behind a -dark, impenetrable veil that the spectator may expect to see the most -wonderful display of pictures above and around him. As the cloud -approaches the moon, the blue background deepens in color and brilliancy -and when its dark margin touches the rim of the moon it is changed into -a fringe of gold or silver; with the disappearance of the moon behind -the cloud the fringe of the latter is rudely torn away, the water -beneath is robbed of its carpet of silver, and the captivated observer -is made aware that the darkness of night is upon him. But the gloom is -of short duration. A break in the cloud serves as a window through which -the moon peeps down, with a most bewitching grace, upon the dark surface -beneath. The prelude to this exhibition appears on the side of the -temporary frame, in the form of a silver lining which broadens with the -moving cloud; now the rim of the moon comes into view; slowly, the veil -is completely thrown aside, and Luna's calm, pale, smiling, full face -makes its appearance, enclosed in a dark frame with silver margins, -while, more than likely, she will be attended by a few brilliant stars, -thus completing the charms and beauty of the picture suspended from the -heavenly dome. All genuine pleasures of this world are of short -duration; so with this nocturnal picture painted on the clouds and -water. The silver rim on one side of the frame of clouds disappears, the -dark margin increases in width, the moon is obscured, and only a few -flickering stars remain fixed in the picture. - - Surely there is something in the unruffled calm of nature that - overcomes our little anxieties and doubts: the sight of the deep blue - sky, and the clustering stars above, seem to impart a quiet to the - mind. - - JONATHAN EDWARDS. - -In midocean is the place to view at greatest advantage the gorgeous -sunrise and sunset of the tropics. To see the sun disappear in the -distance, where the dome of the sky seems to rest on the bosom of the -ocean, is a scene which no pen can describe, and which no artist's brush -has ever reproduced in any degree comparable with the grand reality. The -canvas of the sky behind the setting glowing orb, and the passing clouds -in front, above, and beneath it, are painted successively by the -invisible brush in the unseen hands of the departing artist in colors -and shades of colors that may well laugh to scorn any and all attempts -at description or reproduction. The gilded horizon serves as a fitting -background for the retreating monarch of the day, and the slowly moving -canvas of clouds transmits his last messages in all the hues of red, -crimson, pink, and yellow. To observe this immense panorama stretched -from north to south, and projected toward the east, resting on the -silvery surface of the rippling ocean, with the ever-varying colors of -the slowly moving clouds, as seen evening after evening on the Tahitian -trip, leaves impressions which time can not erase from memory. - -Night on board the _Mariposa_ has additional attractions for the -passengers who appreciate the wonders and beauties of nature. When the -night is dark, they find a place in the stern of the ship, lean against -the taffrail, and watch the water agitated into a diminutive storm by -the powerful screw. There one beholds a sight sufficiently attractive -and interesting to keep him spellbound for an hour or more. The -indolent, phosphorescent sea-amoeba has been roused into action by the -merciless revolutions of the motor of the ship, and emits its diamond -sparks of phosphorescent light. Thousands of these little beings -discharge their magic light in the white veil of foam which adorns the -crests of the storm-beaten surface, in the form of a narrow track as far -as the eye can reach in the darkness of the night. The flashes of light -thrown off by these minute, to the naked eye invisible, inhabitants of -the sea, when angered by the rude action of the screw, appear and -disappear in the twinkling of an eye. When these tiny, light-producing -animals are numerous, as is the case in the equatorial region, the -snow-white veil of foam is richly decorated with diamond sparks which, -when they coalesce, form flames of fire in the track of the vessel. - - - -The ocean voyage has occasionally still another surprise in store for -the traveler when he reaches the South Pacific. A squall is a tempest on -a small scale. We see in the distance a dark cloud of immense size which -seems to ride slowly over the surface of the smooth sea. The gentle -breeze gives way to a strong wind, the surface of the water becomes -ruffled with whitecaps, the darkness increases, and at irregular -intervals the threatening, angry cloud is lighted up by chains of -lightning thrown in all possible directions; these flashes are followed -by peals of thunder, and by prolonged rumbling, which becomes feebler -and feebler, and finally dies away far out on the surface of the ocean. -The steamer penetrates the storm area. Darkness prevails. Gigantic drops -of rain strike the deck and patter upon the canvas awning, the -harbingers of a drenching rain. - - And now the thick'ned sky - - Like a dark ceiling stood; down rush'd the rain impetuous. - - MILTON. - -The cloud and darkness are left behind, and a clear sky and smooth sea -ahead greet the passengers. Did you ever see a rainbow at midnight? Such -an unusual nocturnal spectral phenomenon greeted us in midocean: the -full moon in the east, the delicate rainbow in its infinite colors -painted on the clouds in the west. Our captain, who had lived on the -tropic sea for a quarter of a century, had never seen the like before. -It was reserved for us to see a rainbow painted by the moon. With such -pleasant diversions, by day and by night, we soon forget the ocean -desert, and yet on the last day of the voyage we welcome the sight of -land. - - Be of good cheer, I see land. - - DIOGENES. - -The vastness of the ocean and the smallness of Tahiti are in strange -contrast. How the mariner, in setting the compass on leaving the harbor -of San Francisco, can so unerringly find this little speck in the ocean -nearly four thousand miles away, is an accomplishment which no one, not -versed in the science of navigation can fully comprehend. We sighted -Tahiti during the early part of the forenoon. The peaks of the two -highest mountains in Tahiti, Oroheua and Aorii, seven to eight thousand -feet in height, projected spectre-like from the surface of the ocean. -These peaks appeared as bare, sharp, conical points in the clear sky -above a mantle of clouds which enveloped the balance of the island. This -misty draping of the two highest mountains takes place almost every day, -as the clouds are attracted by the constant moisture of the soil, due to -the dense forests and luxuriant tropical vegetation. - -The next sight of land brought into view the rugged mountains of Moorea -and a group of small atoll islands. Moorea is in plain view from -Papeete, and is the second largest of the Society Islands. Before we -look at Tahiti at close range, let us examine the group of atoll islands -which the steamer passes close enough to give us a good idea of their -formation. - -THE ATOLL ISLANDS - -The atoll islands, so numerous in the South Seas, have a uniform -conformation, and are of coral, deposited upon submerged summits of -mountains of volcanic origin. The floor of the Pacific, like many other -parts of the earth's surface, is undergoing constant changes, increasing -or diminishing its level. Here and there, at certain intervals, volcanic -eruptions have created mountains, which, in Hawaii, rise to nearly -fourteen thousand and, in Tahiti, to over seven thousand feet. Around -each of these innumerable islands and islets in the great Pacific Ocean -the coral polyps have a fringing reef of rock. As these minute creatures -can live only at a depth of twenty to thirty fathoms, and die as soon as -exposed to the air, their life-work is confined to the coast of volcanic -islands. Whenever, as it often happened, the island upon which they had -congregated was slowly sinking, they would elevate their wall to save -themselves from death in deep water. It is evident that if this process -continued long enough, the land would entirely disappear and leave a -submerged circular wall of coral just below the level of the low tide. -The effects of the waves in breaking off the coral formation, large and -small, in elevating them, would, in course of time, produce a ring of -sandy beach, rising above the sea surrounding the central basin, filled -with salt water entering through one or many open channels. Upon the -beach, cocoanuts, washed ashore, would find a favorable soil for -germination, and, ere long, stately palms would fringe the rim of the -enclosed lagoon. Every atoll island has a peripheral fringe of -cocoa-palms and a central lagoon which communicates with the ocean by -one or more channels. Such an island is an atoll, the final stage in the -disappearance of a volcanic islet from the surface of the sea. Such -islands are numerous in the Society Islands, and the Paumotuan -Archipelago consists exclusively of such atoll islands. - - - -It is interesting to know how these minute coral polyps manage their -work of island-building, or, rather, island-preservation. Coral -formation is a calcareous secretion or deposit of many kinds of -zoöphytes of the class Anthozoa, which assumes infinite and often -beautiful forms, according to the different laws which govern the manner -of germination of the polyps of various species. The coral-producing -zoöphytes are compound animals, which multiply in the very swiftest -manner, by germination or budding, young polyp buds springing from the -original polyp, sometimes indifferently from any part of its surface, -sometimes only from its upper circumference or from its base, and not -separating from it, but remaining in the same spot when the original -parent or polyp is dead, and producing buds in their turn. The -reproductive capacity of these polyps is marvelous and explains the -greatness of their work in building up whole islands and the countless -submerged reefs so much dreaded by the mariners of the South Seas. The -calcareous deposition begins when the zoöphytes are still simple polyps, -owing their existence to oviparous reproduction, adhering to a rock or -other substance, to which the calcareous material becomes attached, and -on which the coral is built up, the hard deposits of past generations -forming the base to which those of the progeny are attracted. The coral -formation takes place with astonishing rapidity; under favorable -circumstances, masses of coral have been found to increase in height -several feet in a few months, and a channel cut in a reef surrounding a -coral island, to permit the passage of a schooner, has been blocked with -coral in ten years. Coral formations have been found immediately -attached to the land, whilst in many other cases the reef surrounds the -island, the intervening space, of irregular, but nowhere of great width, -forming a lagoon or channel of deep water, protected by the reef from -wind and waves. According to Darwin, this kind of reef is formed from a -reef of the former merely fringing kind, by the gradual subsidence of -the rocky basis, carrying down the fringe of coral to a greater depth; -whilst the greatest activity of life is displayed by polyps of the kind -most productive of large masses of coral in the outer parts which are -most exposed to the waves. In this manner he also accounts for the -formation of true coral islands, or atolls, which consist merely of a -narrow reef of coral surrounding a central lagoon, and very often of a -reef, perhaps half a mile in breadth, clothed with luxuriant vegetation -and the never-absent cocoa-palms, bordered by a narrow beach of snowy -whiteness, and forming an arc, the convexity of which is toward the -prevailing wind, whilst a straight line of reef not generally rising -above the reach of the tide, forms the chord of the arc. The reef is -generally intersected by a narrow channel into the enclosed lagoon, the -waters of which are still and beautifully transparent, teeming with the -greatest variety of fish. Its surface is enlivened by water-fowl, and -the depth of water close to the precipitous sides of the reef is almost -always very great. The channels are kept open by the flux and reflux of -the tide, the current and waves of which are often so swift and high as -to become a menace to schooners attempting entrance into the lagoon. On -the beach, soil most conducive to the growth of cocoanut-palms is formed -by accumulation of sand, shells, fragments of coral, seaweeds, decayed -leaves, etc. The giant cocoanuts planted in this soil either by the hand -of man or by the waves washing them ashore, germinate quickly, and in a -few years the narrow circular strip of land enclosing the lagoon is -fringed with colonnades of tall fruit-bearing palms. These islands rise -nowhere more than a few feet above the level of the sea. Sometimes the -upheaval of coral formation by volcanic action results in the making of -a real island, in which event the lagoon disappears. Islands with such -an origin sometimes rise to a height of five hundred feet and often -exhibit precipitous cliffs and contain extensive caves. I had read a -description of the Paumotu atoll islands by Stevenson, and consequently -I was much interested in the little group of atolls we passed before -coming into full view of Tahiti. As these islands, like all true atolls, -are only a few feet above the level of the sea, they can not be seen -from the sea at anything like a great distance. When they were pointed -out to us by an officer of the steamer, we could see no land; they -appeared like oases in the desert, green patches in the ocean, due to -the cocoa-palms which guarded their shores. As we came nearer, we could -make out the rim of land and the snow-white coral beach. The smallest of -these atoll islands are not inhabited, but regular visits are made to -them in a small schooner or native double canoe to harvest and bring to -market the never-failing crops of cocoanuts. - - - -THE LANDING AT PAPEETE - -As we left the atolls behind us and neared Tahiti, we could see more -clearly the outlines of the rugged island, disrobed, by this time, of -its vestments of clouds. From a distance, the carpet of green which -extends from its base to near the summit of the highest peaks is varied -here and there by patches of red volcanic earth, thus adding to the -picturesqueness of the scene. What at first appears as a greensward on -the shore, on nearer view discloses itself as a broad fringe of -cocoa-palms, extending from the edge of the ocean to the foot of the -mountains, and from there well up on their slopes, where they are lost -in the primeval forest. Above the tree-line, low shrubs and hardy -grasses compose the verdure up to the bare, brown mountain-peaks. The -largest trees are seen in the mountains' deep ravines, which are cut out -of the side of the heights by gushing of cold, clear waters, which drain -the very heart of the mountains, bounding and leaping over boulders and -rapids in their race to a resting-place in the near-by calm waters of -the lagoon. As we came nearer to the island we were able to make out the -white lighthouse on Point Venus, seven miles from Papeete. Here, Captain -Cook, during one of his visits to the island, was stationed for a -considerable length of time for the purpose of observing the transit of -Venus; hence the name of the point. - -Near the harbor, a native pilot came on board, and, by careful -maneuvering, safely guided the ship through the very narrow channel in -the reef into the harbor, with the tricolor flying from the top mast. -From the harbor, the little city of Papeete and the island present an -inspiring view. A charming islet on the left as we enter the harbor, -looks like an emerald set in the blue water. It serves as a quarantine -station, and the little snow-white buildings upon it appear like toy -houses. The small city is spread out among cocoa-palms, ornamental and -shade trees. The green of the foliage of these trees is continuous with -the forest-clad mountains which form the background of the beautiful -plateau on which the city is built. The harbor of Papeete is land and -reef-locked, small, but deep enough to float the largest steamers plying -in the Pacific Ocean. As the steamer came up slowly to the wharf, -hundreds of people, a strange mixture of natives, half-castes, Europeans -and Chinese, old and young, dressed in clothes of all imaginable colors, -red being by far the most predominant, crowded the dock. Many of the -children were naked, and not a few of the men and boys were unencumbered -by clothing, with the exception of the typical, much checkered Tahitian -cotton loin-cloth. A number of handsome carriages brought the élite of -the city to take part in this most important of all monthly events. - - They come to see; they come to be seen. - - OVIDIUS. - -Custom-house officers, uniformed native policemen, government officials, -French soldiers and merchants, mingled with the dusky natives and -contributed much to the uniqueness of the landing-scene. The dense, -motley crowd was anxious to see and be seen, but was orderly and well -behaved. The custom-house officers were accommodating and courteous, and -passed our hand-baggage without inspection. On the wharf was a small -mountain of cocoanuts, in readiness to be loaded as a part of the return -cargo of the _Mariposa_. - -THE CITY OF PAPEETE - -Papeete is the capital of Tahiti, the seat of government of the entire -archipelago, and the principal commercial city of the French possessions -in Oceanica. It is a typical city of the South Sea world, as it is -viewed from the deck of the steamer and while walking or riding along -its narrow, crooked streets. From the harbor, little can be seen of its -buildings, except the spire of the cathedral and the low steeples of two -Protestant churches, the low tower of the governor's palace, formerly -the home of royalty, the military hospital, the wharf, and a few -business houses loosely scattered along the principal street, the Quai -du Commerce that skirts the harbor. The residence part of the city is -hidden behind towering cocoa-palms and magnificent shade-trees among -which the flamboyant (burau) trees are the most beautiful. It is -situated on a low plateau with a background of forest-clad mountains, -the beautiful little harbor, the spray-covered coral reef, the vast -ocean and the picturesque outlines of Moorea in front of it. - - - -Papeete has no sidewalks. The streets are narrow, irregularly laid out, -and none of them paved. Most of the houses are one-story frame -buildings, covered with corrugated iron roofs. There are only two or -three large stores; the remaining business-places are small shops, many -of them owned and managed by Chinamen. The present population, made up -of natives of all tints, from a light chocolate to nearly white, six to -eight hundred whites and about three hundred Chinese, numbers in the -neighborhood of five thousand, nearly half of the population of the -entire island. There are about five hundred Chinese in the island, who, -by their industry and knowledge of business methods, have become -formidable competitors of the merchants from other foreign countries. -Their small shops and coffee-houses in Papeete and the country districts -are well patronized by the natives. - -Papeete is the commercial center of Oceanica. There are no department -stores there. Business is specialized more there than perhaps in any -other city. All of the shops, even the largest, look small in the eyes -of Americans. There are dry goods stores, grocery stores, millinery -shops, two small frame hotels, the Hotel Francais and another smaller -one, both on the Quai, a few boarding-houses, two saloons, and no bank. -The scarcity of saloons can be explained by the fact that the natives -are temperate in their habits. According to a law enforced by the -government, the native women are prohibited from frequenting such -places. - -The public wash-basin, supplied with running fresh water from a mountain -stream, is a sight worth seeing. From a dozen to twenty native women, -and a few soldiers, may be found here almost any time of the day, -paddling knee-deep in the water, using stones in place of washboards in -performing their arduous work. This primitive way of washing gives -excellent results, judging from the snow-white, spotless linen garments -worn by the Europeans and well-to-do natives. - -The little plaza or square in the center of the city is used as a -market-place where natives congregate at five o'clock in the morning, to -make their modest purchases of fish, plantain, pineapple, melon or -preserved shrimp done up in joints of bamboo. This is the place to learn -what the islanders produce, sell and buy. - -The public buildings are well adapted for a tropic climate. The most -important of these is the palace of the last of the Tahitian kings, now -used as the office of the government. It is a handsome white building, -surrounded by ample grounds well laid out, and beautified by trees, -shrubs and flowers. The government schoolhouse is an enormous frame -building, resting upon posts, several feet from the ground, with more -than one-half of its walls taken up by arched windows, the best lighted -and most thoroughly ventilated building in the city, an ideal -schoolhouse for the tropics. Among the churches of different -denominations, the Catholic cathedral is the largest and best, although -in the States it would not be considered an ornament for a small country -village. - -The city is well supplied with pure water from a mountain stream, but -lacks a system of sewerage. The gardens and grounds of the best -residences of the foreigners present an exquisite display of flowers -that flourish best in the tropic soil, under the invigorating rays of -the tropic sun, and the soothing effects of the frequent showers of -rain, which are not limited to any particular season of the year. - -Papeete, like all cities in the equatorial region, is a city of supreme -idleness and freedom from care. The citizens can not comprehend that -"The great principle of human satisfaction is engagement" (Paley). This -idleness is inherent in the natives, and under the climatic conditions, -and I suppose to a certain extent by suggestion, is soon acquired by the -foreigners. Contentment and absence of anxiety characterize the life of -the Tahitian. He has no desire to accumulate wealth; he is satisfied -with little. He is "shut up in measureless content" (Shakespeare); he is -inspired with the good idea that "he that maketh haste to be rich, shall -not be innocent" (Proverb xxviii: 20). The merchants open their shops at -sunrise, lock the doors at ten, retire to their homes for breakfast, -take their two-hour siesta, return to their business, suspend work at -five, and the remainder of the day and the entire evening are devoted to -rest, social visits and divers amusements. The social center of the -foreigners is the Cercle Bougainville, a small frame building which -serves the purpose of a club house. Bicycling is a favorite means of -travel and sport for the Europeans as well as the natives of all -classes. This vehicle has found its way not only into the capital city -but also into the country districts throughout the island. The splendid -macadamized road which encircles the island furnishes a great inducement -for this sport. Two of the wealthiest citizens travel the principal -streets in the city and the ninety-mile drive in the most modern fashion -by riding an automobile. - -There are few if any door locks in private residences, hotels and -boarding-houses, the best possible proof that the inhabitants are -law-abiding citizens. In the boarding-house in which I lived, the main -entrance was left wide open during the night, and none of the door locks -was supplied with a key. The native women wear Mother Hubbard gowns of -bright calico; the better class of men dress in European fashion, while -the laborers and men from the country districts wear a pareu -(loin-cloth) of bright calico, with or without an undershirt. The -average Tahitian does not believe in: - - We are captivated by dress. - - OVIDIUS. - - - -TOPOGRAPHY OF THE ISLAND - - Into the silent land! - - Ah, who shall lead us thither? - - VON SALIS. - -There is no spot on earth more free from care, worry and unrest than the -island of Tahiti. The abundance with which nature here has provided for -the wants of man, the uniform soothing climate, the calmness of the -Pacific Ocean, the pleasing scenery quiet the nerves, induce sleep and -reduce to a minimum the efforts of man in the struggle for life. It is -the island of peace, contentment and rest, a paradise on earth. - -No writer has ever done justice to the natural beauties of this gem of -the South Seas. The towering mountains, the tropical forests, the -numerous rippling streams of crystal water, shaded dark ravines, the -palm-fringed shore, the lagoons with their quiet, peaceful, clear waters -painted in most exquisite colors of all shades of green, blue and salmon -by the magic influence of the tropical sun, their outside wall of coral -reef ceaselessly kissed by the caressing, foaming, moaning surf, the -near-by picturesque island of Moorea, with its precipitous mountains -rising from the deep bed of the sea, the flat basin-like, palm-fringed -atolls in the distance, and the vast ocean beyond, make up a combination -of pictures of which the mind never tires, and which engrave themselves -indelibly on the tablet of memory. - -Tahiti is a typical mountain island, protected against the aggressive -ocean by a coral reef which forms almost a complete wall around it, -enclosing lagoons of much beauty, which teem with a great variety of -fish. It is thirty-five miles in length, and on an average twelve miles -in breadth. It is shaped somewhat in the form of an hourglass, the -narrow part at Isthmus Terrawow. The circuit of the island by following -the coast is less than one hundred and twenty miles. The ninety-mile -drive which engirdles the island cuts off some of the irregular -projections into the sea. The interior is very mountainous and cut into -ravines so deep that it has never been inhabited to any extent. The -highest peaks are Orohena and Aorii, from seven to eight thousand feet -in height, the former cleft into two points of rock which are often -draped with dark masses of tropic clouds. Numerous other peaks of lesser -magnitude are crowded together in the center of the island, their broad -foundations encroaching upon the plain. The people live on the narrow -strip of low land at the base of the mountains and running down to the -shore, where the soil is exceedingly fertile and always well watered by -numerous rivers, brooks and rivulets. Numberless cascades can be seen -from the ninety-mile drive, leaping over cliffs and appearing like -silver threads in the dark green of the mountain-sides. The strip of -arable land at the base of the mountains varies in width from the bare -precipitous cliffs, without even a beach, to one, or perhaps in the -widest places, two miles. The larger streams have cut out a few broader -valleys. It is this narrow strip of land which is inhabited, the little -villages being usually located near the mouth of a river on the -coast-line, insuring for the inhabitants a pure water-supply and -facilities for fresh-water bathing, a frequent and pleasant pastime for -the natives of both sexes and all ages. - -Wherever there is sufficient depth of soil, vegetation is rampant. The -fertility of the soil and the stimulating effect of constant moisture on -vegetable life are best seen by the vitality exhibited by the -fence-posts. I have seen fence-posts a foot and more in circumference, -after being implanted in the soil, strike root, sprout and develop into -trees of no small size. The mountains, and more especially the ravines, -are heavily timbered. There is no place on earth where the scenery is -more beautiful and sublime than at many points along the ninety-mile -drive. The lofty mountains, the fertile plain, the many rivers, brooks, -rivulets and glimpses of foaming cascades, lagoons, of the surf beating -the coral reef in the distance, the limitless ocean beyond, the -luxuriant rampant vegetation, the beautiful flowers, the majestic -palm-trees, the quaint villages and their interesting inhabitants, form -a picture which is beautiful, and, at the same time, sublime. As a whole -it is sublime; in detail, beautiful. - - Beauty charms, sublimity awes us, and is often accompanied with a - feeling resembling fear; while beauty rather attracts and draws us - towards it. - - FLEMING. - -Let us see how Captain Cook was impressed with Tahiti when he first cast -his eyes upon this gem of the Pacific: - - Perhaps there is scarcely a spot in the universe that affords a more - luxuriant prospect than the southeast part of Otaheite [Tahiti.] The - hills are high and steep, and, in many places, craggy. But they are - covered to the very summits with trees and shrubs, in such a manner - that the spectator can scarcely help thinking that the very rocks - possess the property of producing and supporting their verdant - clothing. The flat land which bounds those hills toward the sea, and - the interjacent valleys also, teem with various productions that grow - with the most exuberant vigour; and, at once, fill the mind of the - beholder with the idea that no place upon earth can outdo this, in the - strength and beauty of vegetation. Nature has been no less liberal in - distributing rivulets, which are found in every valley, and as they - approach the sea, often divide into two or three branches, fertilizing - the flat lands through which they run. - -Tahiti is the same to-day as when Captain Cook visited it for the first -time. The only decided changes which have taken place since are the -building up of the capital city Papeete, and the construction of the -ninety-mile drive. The beauty of the island has been maintained because -the natives have preserved the magnificent primeval forests. Strip -Tahiti of its forests and it will be made a desert in a few years. -Nature relies on the forests to attract the clouds which bring the -moisture, and assist in the formation and preservation of the soil. -Remove the trees, and drouth and floods will destroy vegetation, and the -latter will wash the existing soil into the hungry abyss of the ocean. -Fertile and beautiful as Captain Cook found Tahiti, he deprecated the -idea of settling it with whites. - - Our occasional visits may, in some respects, have benefited its - inhabitants; but a permanent establishment amongst them, conducted as - most European establishments amongst Indian nations have unfortunately - been, would, I fear, give them just cause to lament that our ships had - ever found them out. Indeed, it is very unlikely that any measure of - this kind should ever be seriously thought of, as it can neither serve - the purposes of public ambition, nor of private avarice; and, without - such inducements, I may pronounce, that it will never be undertaken. - -The island has been invaded and taken by the whites and the results to -the natives have been in many respects disastrous, which goes to prove -the correctness of Captain Cook's prophecy. - - - -THE CLIMATE - -The climate of Tahiti, although tropical, is favorably influenced by the -trade-winds and frequent showers. The breezes from ocean and land keep -the heated atmosphere in motion, and the frequent rains throughout the -year have a direct effect in lowering the temperature. The entire island -from the shore to the highest mountain-peaks, is covered by forests and -a vigorous vegetation. These retain the moisture and attract the -pregnant clouds, securing, throughout the year, a sufficient rainfall to -feed the many mountain streams and water the rich soil of the -mountain-sides, valleys, ravines and lowlands along the coast. The -temperature seldom exceeds 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and during the coldest -months, March and April, it occasionally falls as low as 65 degrees -Fahrenheit. The atmosphere is charged with humidity, and when this -condition reaches the maximum degree, the heat is oppressive, more -especially when there is no land or ocean breeze. If a hotel could be -built at an elevation of three to four thousand feet above the level of -the sea, the guests would find a climate which could not be surpassed in -any other part of the world. A prolonged residence in Papeete or any -other part of the island near the sea-level is debilitating for the -whites. Those of the white inhabitants who can afford it, leave the -island every three or five years and seek recuperation and a renewal of -energy in a cooler climate, usually in California or Europe. Papeete, -partially enclosed by mountains, and only a few feet above the level of -the sea, and on the leeward side of the island, is said to be one of the -warmest places in the island. The village of Papara gets the full -benefit of the trade-winds and the land-breeze, and is one of the -coolest spots in Tahiti. Tahiti's summer-time is our winter. I was -fortunate in visiting the island during the latter part of January. It -is the time when Nature makes a special effort here to produce the -luxuriant vegetation after the drenching rains of December. It is the -time when the evergreen trees cast off, here and there, a faded leaf, to -be replaced by a new one from the vigorous unfolding buds. It is the -season of flowers and the greatest variety of fruits. It may interest -the reader to know that one day seven different kinds of fruits were -served at the breakfast-table, a luxury out of reach of our millionaires -at their homes in the North at that time of the year. For a winter -vacation, the months of January and February offer the greatest -inducements. Those who are in need of an ideal mental rest, and are fond -of a long ocean voyage, and enjoy tropic scenery and the marvelous -products of the fertile soil of the tropics, should not fail to visit -Tahiti, the little paradise in the midst of the vast expanse of the -Pacific Ocean. - -HISTORY OF THE ISLAND - - History is the witness of the times, the torch of truth, the life of - memory, the teacher of life, the messenger of antiquity. - - CICERO. - -It was my privilege during my brief stay in Tahiti to meet Tati Salmon, -chief of the Papara district. He is a direct descendant of one of the -two noble families of the island, the Tevas, and one of the most -prominent and influential citizens of the island. I asked him to what -race the Tahitians belonged. To this question he had a ready reply. He -said: "We belong to no race; man was created here; this is the lost -Garden of Eden." There is much force, if not truth, in this assertion -when we take into consideration the charming beauty of the island and -the bounteous provisions which Nature has made here for the existence of -man. Then, too, the Tahitian is a good specimen of manhood, -intellectually and physically, far superior to the Negro race and the -Mongolian. Ariitaimai (Arii Taimai E), the mother of the chief just -referred to and the authoress of the book mentioned in the preface, -believes that the Tahitians belong to the great Aryan race, the race of -Arii, and that their chiefs were Arii, not kings, and the head chiefs, -Ariirahi—Great Chiefs. It was only the latter who were entitled to wear -the girdle of red feathers, as much the symbol of their preeminence as -the crown and sceptre of European royalty. The Tahitians are -Polynesians, like the inhabitants of most of the South Seas and of -Hawaii, and there can be but little doubt that the Polynesians belong to -the Malay race, having migrated from island to island, from west to -east, by way of Java, Samoa and the Hawaiian Islands. As these voyages -had to be made by means of frail canoes, we can readily conceive the -hardships endured by the bold navigators of centuries ago. A story -current in Tahiti relates that it was thus that the great chief Olopaua -of Hawaii, driven from home by disastrous floods, bore his wife Lu'ukia -in the twelfth century, to find a new dwelling place in Tahiti, -twenty-three hundred miles away. It is said that the chiefess was a -poetess, a dancer famed for grace, and the inventor of a style of dress -which is still made by the Hawaiians. Many of the primitive peoples -trace their origin to a legend which is handed down from generation to -generation. - - In all ages of the world there is nothing with which mankind hath been - so much delighted as with those little fictitious stories which go - under the name of fables or apologues among the ancient heathens, and - of parables in the sacred writings. - - BISHOP PORTEUS. - -The Tevas of Tahiti have their legend and it is related by Ariitaimai, -as it has been told for many generations. They take pride in the story -that they are the direct descendants from the Shark God. The legend -tells how many centuries ago a chief of Punaauia, by the name of Te -manutu-ruu, married a chiefess of Vaiari, named Hototu, and had a son, -Terii te moanarau. At the birth of the child, the father set out in his -canoe for the Paumotu Islands to obtain red feathers (Ura) to make the -royal belt for the young prince. The legend begins by assuming that -Vaiari was the oldest family, with its Maraes, and that Punaauia was -later in seniority and rank. While Te manutu-ruu was absent on his long -voyage to the Paumotus, a visitor appeared at Vaiari, and was -entertained by the chiefess. This visitor was the first ancestor of the -Tevas. He was only half human, the other half fish, or Shark God; and he -swam from the ocean, through the reef, into the Vaihiria River, where he -came ashore, and introduced himself as Vari mataauhoe, and, after having -partaken of the hospitalities of the chiefess, took up his residence -with her. But after their intimacy had lasted some time, one day, when -they were together, Hototu's dog came into the house and showed his -affection for his mistress by licking her face, or, as we should say -now, kissed her, although in those days this mark of affection was -unknown, as the Polynesians instead only touched noses as an -affectionate greeting. At this the man-shark was so displeased that he -abandoned the chiefess. He walked into the river, turned fish again and -swam out to sea. On his way he met the canoe of the Chief Te manutu-ruu -returning from the Paumotus, and stopped to speak to him. The chief -invited Vari mataauhoe to return with him, but the man-shark declined, -giving as his reason that the chiefess was too fond of dogs. - - - -The legend proves that the natives regarded Vaiari as the source of -their aristocracy. Papara makes the same claim, for when Vari mataauhoe -left Hototu he said to her: "You will bear me a child; if a girl, she -will belong to you and take your name; but if a boy, you are to call him -Teva; rain and wind will accompany his birth, and to whatever spot he -goes, rain and wind will always foretell his coming. He is of the race -of Ariirahi, and you are to build him a Marae which you are to call -Matava (the two eyes of Tahiti), and there he is to wear the Marotea, -and he must be known as the child of Ahurei (the wind that blows from -Taiarapu)." A boy was born, and, as foretold, in rain and wind. The name -of Teva was given to him; and Matoa was built; and there Teva ruled. -From this boy came the name Teva; but when and how it was applied to the -clan no one knows. The members of the tribe or clan believe it must have -been given by the Arii of Papara or Vaiari. To this day, the Tevas -seldom travel without rain and wind, so that they use the word Teva -rarivari—Teva wet always and everywhere. The Vaiari people still point -out the place where the first ancestor of the clan lived as a child, his -first bathing place, and the different waters in which he fished as he -came on his way toward Papara. This legend is to-day as fresh in the -district of Papara as it was centuries ago. It is but natural that the -Tevas, one of the two most influential and powerful of the tribes of -Tahiti, should be anxious to trace their ancestry to a royal origin even -if the first ancestor should be a man-shark, little remembering that - - It is not wealth nor ancestry, but honorable conduct and a noble - disposition that make men great. - - OVIDIUS. - -As the Tahitians had no written language before the missionaries visited -the island, little is known of its earlier history. The history of the -island since its discovery has been accurately written up by Ariitaimai, -an eye-witness of many of the most stirring events and on that account -most to be relied upon, for - - The only good histories are those that have been written by the - persons themselves who commanded in the affairs whereof they write. - - MONTAIGNE. - -Let us follow her account of the history of the island since its -discovery by Captain Samuel Wallis, June 18, 1767. The captain made a -voyage around the world in Her Majesty's ship _Dolphin_, and on his way -found the island, and called it Otaheite. At that time, Amo was head -chief of Papara and of the Tevas, or rather his son Teriirere, born -about 1762, was head chief, and Amo exercised power as his guardian, -according to native custom, which made the eldest child immediately on -birth, the head of the family. At that time the power of calling the -Tevas to conference or war was peculiar to the Papara head chief; the -military strength of the Tevas was unconquerable, if it could be united; -but perhaps the most decisive part of every head chief's influence was -his family connection. Nowhere in the world was marriage a matter of -more political and social consequence than in Tahiti. Women occupied an -important position in society and political affairs. The chiefesses held -the reins of government with as much firmness as the chiefs, and -commanded the same influence and respect. She was as independent of her -husband as of any other chief; she had her seat or throne, in the Marae -even to the exclusion of her husband; and if she were ambitious she -might win or lose crowns for her children as happened with Captain -Wallis' friend Oberea, the great-aunt of Ariitaimai Purea, and with her -niece, Tetuauni reiaiteatea, the mother of the first King Pomare. At the -time of Wallis' and Cook's visits, Papara was the principal city in -Tahiti, and Papeete, the present capital city of the French possessions -in Oceanica, a mere village. The Papara head chief was never the head -chief of the whole island, but his power and influence were predominant -throughout the whole island. The kingship which Europeans insisted on -conferring on him, or on any other head chief who happened for the time -to rival him, was never accepted by the natives until forced upon them -by foreign influence and arms. From this it will be seen that before -European influence made itself felt, the Tahitians were divided into -tribes ruled by so many chiefs, with a head chief whose influence -extended over the entire island. The form of native government was very -simple and had many very commendable features. Wars between the tribes -and between Tahiti and the neighboring island, Moorea, were, however, of -frequent occurrence. - - - -All exact knowledge concerning dates in the history of the island begins -with June 24, 1767, when Wallis warped his ship into the bay of Matavai, -the most northerly point of the island. The appearance of the -foreigners, the first time the natives had ever seen a white man and -such a great ship, created consternation. Excitement ran high on the -landing of the crew. The natives attacked them, but their rude -implements of warfare could not cope with firearms, and they were -defeated. Two days later, June 26th, the battle was renewed and again -terminated in the defeat of the natives, promptly followed by sudden -friendship for their first European visitors. The natives, extremely -superstitious, were at first suspicious, and it required some time to -establish free relations between them and the commander and crew of the -_Dolphin_. Strangely enough, the first native to board the ship was a -woman. The incident is related by Wallis himself: - - On Saturday, the 11th, in the afternoon, the gunner came on board with - a tall woman, who seemed to be about five and forty years of age, of a - pleasing countenance and majestic deportment. He told me that she was - but just come into that part of the country, and that seeing great - respect paid her by the rest of the natives, he had made her some - presents; in return for which she had invited him to her home, which - was about two miles up the valley, and given him some large hogs; - after which she returned with him to the watering-place and expressed - a desire to go on board the ship, in which wish he had thought it - proper, on all accounts, that she should be gratified. She seemed to - be under no restraint, either from diffidence or fear, when she came - into the ship, and she behaved all the while she was on board with an - easy freedom that always distinguishes conscious superiority and - habitual command. I gave her a large blue mantle that reached from her - shoulders to her feet, which I drew over her, and tied on with - ribbons; I gave her also a looking-glass, beads of several sorts, and - many other things, which she accepted with good grace and much - pleasure. She took notice that I had been ill, and pointed to the - shore. I understood that she meant I should go thither to perfect my - recovery, and I made signs that I would go thither the next morning. - When she intimated an inclination to return, I ordered the gunner to - go with her, who, having set her on shore, attended her to her - habitation, which he described as being very large and well built. He - said that in this house she had many guards and domestics, and that - she had another at a little distance which was enclosed in lattice - work. - -This visit opened the island to the Englishmen. Wallis repeatedly refers -to his first visitor as "my princess, or rather queen." When he came on -shore the next day he was met by the princess, who ordered that he and -the first lieutenant and purser, who were also ill, should be carried by -the people to her home, where they were treated in a most hospitable -manner. Here is a beautiful instance of natural hospitality, charity and -gratitude combined; a kindly deed dictated by unselfish motives, an -exhibition of virtues so rarely met with in the common walks of life. - - Hospitality to the better sort and charity to the poor; two virtues - that are never exercised so well as when they accompany each other. - - ATTERBURY. - -The princess had full control over the curious, motley crowd, which gave -way to the strangers by a sign of her hand. The house proved to be the -Fare-hau, or Council-house, of Haapape, and the princess, as Wallis -called her, who did not belong to Haapape, but to quite another part of -the island, was herself a guest whose presence there was due to her -relationship with the chief. - -Wallis left the Island July 27th. His "queen" and her attendants came on -board and bade him and his crew a most affectionate farewell. Neither -Wallis, nor Bougainville, who visited Tahiti in April, 1768, eight -months later, ever learned what her true rank was, or from what part of -the island she came. According to Ariitaimai, she was her -great-great-grandaunt Purea, or rather, the wife of her -great-great-granduncle. - -Bougainville named the island New Cytherea, and Commerson, the -naturalist, charmed by its beauty and astonished at its resources, -called it Utopia. The latter gave the following romantic description of -the island and its people in a letter published in the _Mercure de -France_: - - Je puis vous dire que c'est le seul coin de la terre ou habitent des - hommes sans vices, sans préjugés, sans besoins, sans dissensions. Nés - sous le plus beau ciel, nourris des fruits d'une terre féconde sans - culture, régis par des pères de famille plutôt que par des rois, ils - ne connaissent d'autre dieu que l'Amour. Tous les jours lai sont - consacrés, toute l'isle son temple, toutes les femmes—me - demandez-vous? Les rivales des Geôrgiennes en beauté et les sœurs des - grâces toutes unes. - -Such was the simple, innocent, happy island life when Tahiti was -discovered by the white man, whose pretended object was to bring to the -natives the benefits of modern civilization. As to the immediate effects -of European civilization on the morals of the natives, Ariitaimai has -the following to say in reply to the alleged laxity of Tahitian morals: - - No one knows how much of the laxity of morals was due to the French - and English themselves, whose appearance certainly caused a sudden and - shocking overthrow of such moral rules as had existed before in the - island society: and the "supposed" means that when the island society - as a whole is taken into account. Marriage was real as far as it went, - and the standard rather higher than that of Paris; in some ways - extremely lax, and in others strict and stern to a degree that would - have astonished even the most conventional English nobleman, had he - understood it - -The third European to visit Tahiti was that intrepid explorer, Captain -Cook, who entered Matavai Bay on the 13th of April, 1769, in Her -Majesty's bark, the _Endeavor_, on his first voyage around the world. He -met chief Tootahah, under whose protection he settled on Point Venus. He -was accompanied by a staff of scientists, among them Joseph Banks and -Dr. Solander, a Swedish naturalist. Captain Wallis' "queen" was again on -the shore to meet the strangers. Captain Cook gives a detailed account -of her visit: - - She first went to Mr. Banks' tent at the fort, where she was not - known, till the master, who knew her, happening to go ashore, brought - her on board with two men and several women, who seemed to be all of - her family. I made them all some presents or other, but to Obariea - (for that was the woman's name) I gave several things, in return for - which, as soon as I went on shore with her, she gave me a hog and - several bunches of plantains. These she caused to be carried from her - canoes up to the fort in a kind of procession, she and I bringing up - the rear. This woman is about forty years of age, and, like most of - the other women, very masculine. She is head or chief of her own - family or tribe, but to all appearance hath no authority over the rest - of the inhabitants, whatever she might have when the _Dolphin_ was here. - - - -Cook ascertained at this time, that Obariea was the wife of the most -influential chief of the island, Oamo, but did not live with him. She -had two children, a daughter eighteen years old, and a boy of seven, the -heir to the throne. He says in his Journal: - - The young boy above mentioned is son to Oamo and Obariea, but Oamo and - Obariea do not at this time live together as man and wife, he not - being able to endure with her troublesome disposition. I mention this - because it shows that separation in the marriage state is not unknown - to these people. - -When Cook made his second visit to the island, in 1774, he learned that -Oamo and Obariea, or, as they are called in the genealogy of the Tevas, -Amo and Purea, had been driven from Papara into the mountains. Vehiatu, -the victor, made Amo resign, and the regency of that part of the island -was entrusted to Tootuhah, the youngest brother of the deposed chief. - -POMARE, THE ROYAL FAMILY OF TAHITI - -The Pomare family are descendants of chiefs called Tu of Faaraoa, one of -the atoll islands of the Paumotu Archipelago, some two hundred and fifty -miles northeast of Tahiti. The exact date of the first Tu's arrival in -Tahiti is unknown. Even the generation can not be fixed. The Pomares -were always ashamed of their Paumotu descent, which they regarded as a -flaw in their heraldry, and which was a reproach to them in the eyes of -the Tahitians, for all Tahitians regarded the Paumotus as savage, and -socially inferior. The first Tu who came to visit the distant land of -Tahiti, came in by the Taunoa opening, which is the eastern channel, -into what is now the harbor of Papeete. Landing at Taunoa a stranger, he -was invited to be the guest of Manaihiti, who seems to have been a chief -of Pare. He was adopted by the chief as his brother, and at the death of -the chief, he became heir and successor in the chief's line. He married -into the Arue family, which gave his son a claim to the joint chiefdom -of Pare Arue; and at last his grandson, or some later generation, -obtained in marriage no less a personage than Tetuaehuri, daughter of -Taiarapu. One of the members of this family, Teu (born 1720, died 1802) -made new and important advances in the social and political circles of -Tahiti by marriage, and became the father of Pomare I. (1743-1803), the -first king of Tahiti. Teu seems to have been a very clever and cautious -man. He never assumed to be a great chief or to wear the belt of -feathers. He was more jealous of his son than of Amo or his son -Teriirere. His son, Tu, was born about 1743. Related by birth with two -of the most influential families, he strengthened his native ties by -marrying Tetuanui-rea-i-te-rai, of the adjoining independent chiefdom of -Tefauai Ahurai, who was not only a niece of Purea, but quite as -ambitious and energetic as Purea herself. The English, who could not -conceive that the Tahitians should be able to exist without some -pretense of royalty, gave Tu the rank and title of king, notwithstanding -that he was only one, and at that not the most influential of several -Arii rahi. To the great dissatisfaction of the other chiefs, Tu received -the lion's share of presents from Captain Cook. At this action, the -Ahurai and Attahura people were enraged, and Cook was quite unable to -understand that they had reason to complain. To them, Cook's partiality -for Tu must have seemed a deliberate insult. When Cook returned on his -third voyage, in 1777, several Tahitian tribes were in a state of war -with Moorea, in which Tu took no active part. Cook then deliberately -intervened in the support of the plan he had adopted of elevating Tu at -the expense of the other chiefs. In his estimation, Tu was king by -divine right, and any attack on his authority was treason in the first -place, and an attack on British influence in the next. British influence -and British threats made a radical change in the government of Tahiti, -in opposition to the expressed wish of the great majority of the people. -England wanted to control the political affairs of the island for -commercial gain, and to extend her sovereignty in the South Seas, which -only confirms that - - All government—indeed, every human benefit and enjoyment, every virtue - and every prudent act—is founded on compromise and barter. - - BURKE. - - - -After Cook's departure, nearly eleven years elapsed before another -European ship called at Tahiti, and, during this time, Pomare paid -dearly for the distinctions forced upon him by the foreigners. When -Lieutenant Bligh arrived in the _Bounty_, in 1788, Tu told him that after -five years from the time of Cook's last departure, the people of the -island Moorea (Eirrieo) joined with those of Attahura and made an attack -on his district, and many of his subjects were killed, while he had -himself fled, with the survivors, to the mountains. All the houses and -property had been destroyed or carried away by the enemy. Bligh landed -at Matavai in the _Bounty_ October 26, 1788. He came for a supply of -breadfruit, which was to be introduced and domesticated in the various -tropical colonies of Great Britain, and indirectly to advance the -interests and power of Tu, who had nearly lost his influence over the -natives. His position was so desperate that he begged the lieutenant to -take him and his wife, Tetua, to England. He had a son, at this time six -years old, who became the first Christian king of Tahiti. Before leaving -the island, April 3, 1789, Bligh did what he could to strengthen Tu's -position, and supplied him with firearms. For this act he gave the -following explanation: - - He (Tu) had frequently expressed a wish that I would leave some - firearms and ammunition with him, as he expected to be attacked after - the ship sailed, and perhaps chiefly on account of our partiality to - him. I therefore thought it but reasonable to accede to his request. I - was the more readily prevailed on, as he said his intentions were to - act only on the defensive. This, indeed, seems most suited to his - disposition, which is neither active nor enterprising. When I proposed - to leave with him a pair of pistols, which they prefer to muskets, - they told me that his wife, Tetua, would fight with one and Oedidee - with the other. Tetua has learned to load and fire a musket with great - dexterity, and Oedidee is an excellent marksman. It is not common for - women in this country to go to war, but Tetua is a very resolute - woman, of a large make, and has great bodily strength. - -History shows that Tetua was not the only fighting woman in Tahiti, as -at different times, in tribal wars, it was not uncommon for women to -take an active part, and in more than one instance the leading part. - - On great occasions it is almost always women who have given the - strongest proofs of virtue and devotion; the reason is, that with men, - good and bad qualities are in general the result of calculation, - whilst in women they are impulses, springing from the heart. - - COUNT MONTHOLON. - -Lieutenant Bligh left the island April 4th. As he was passing the -Friendly, or Tonga group, April 28th, the larger part of his officers -and men mutinied and set him and some eighteen others adrift in the -ship's launch. The mutineers then put the ship about and returned to -Tahiti, where they arrived at Matavai Bay, June 6, 1789. There they took -in all the live-stock they could obtain, and twenty-four Tahitians, and -sailed again June 16th for Tubuai, but appeared once more, September -22nd, and landed sixteen of the mutineers, who were tired of their -adventures. The rest sailed suddenly the next night, and vanished from -the sight of men for twenty years. The sixteen mutineers who remained -scattered more or less over the island, but made Pare their headquarters -and Tu their patron. Here they set to work, November 12, 1789, to build -a thirty-foot schooner, with which to make their escape. The effect of -the example of these ruffians and criminals on the morals of the simple, -receptive Tahitians can be readily imagined. These men, who had enjoyed -the confidence of their commander and the advantages and pleasures of a -trip to foreign strange countries, proved ungrateful, and "the earth -produces nothing worse than an ungrateful man" (Ansonius). The schooner -was launched August 5, 1790. The war which immediately followed, and -which reestablished Tu in his power for the time, deserves to be called -the War of the Mutineers of the _Bounty_. When Tu died, thirteen years -later, the missionaries in their Journal recorded many details about his -life and character, and among other things, they said: - - He was born in the district of Oparre, where his corpse now is, and - was by birth chief of that district, and none other. The notice of the - English navigators laid the foundation for his future aggrandizement; - and the runaway seamen that from time to time quitted their vessels to - sojourn in the island (especially that of His Majesty's ship _Bounty_'s - crew, which resided here) were the instruments for gaining to Pomarre - a greater extent of dominion and power than any other man had before - in Otaheite. - -It is very evident that the first Pomare was a man without firmness and -that what influence he exercised was due to the energies and ambition of -his wife and to foreign support. When Lieutenant Bligh reached home and -reported the mutiny, the British government sent the frigate _Pandora_ in -search of the _Bounty_ and the deserted crew. The _Pandora_ never found the -_Bounty_, which long since had been burned by the mutineers at Pitcairn -Island; but she did find such of the mutineers as had returned to -Tahiti, and who were actively engaged in establishing Tu as a Tahitian -despot, when the _Pandora_, in March, 1791, appeared in Matavai Bay. The -mutineers, it seems, unable to keep at sea in the rickety schooner, -landed at Papara, March 26th, and took refuge in the mountains. Captain -Edwards, of the _Pandora_, immediately sent two boats, with a number of -men, to Papara. Through the friendly office of the chiefs and natives, -the mutineers were finally captured, one by one, until only six remained -out, and these were at last found near the seashore, where they were -captured after many fruitless attempts. The _Pandora_ sailed from Tahiti -with her prisoners in May, 1791, and in December following, Vancouver -arrived in the sloop of war _Discovery_, on a search for a northwest -passage to the Orient, stopping for supplies at Tahiti, December 28th. - - - -Vancouver, who had been with Cook in 1777, inquired for his old friends. -He learned that the young king had taken the name of Otoo, and his old -friend that of Pomare, having given up his name with his sovereign -jurisdiction, though he still seemed to retain his authority as regent. -This is the first record of the name Pomare, by which the family has -since been known. After the birth of the young Tu, about 1782, the first -of his children who was allowed to live, the father seems to have taken -the name of Tuiah, or Tarino, which he bore in 1788. He took the name of -Pomare (night cough) from his younger son, Terii nava horoo, a young -child in 1791, who coughed at night. With the assistance of English -guns, Pomare waged active war on neighboring chiefs, and the chief of -Papara was the last one to succumb. By successive vigorous strokes, he -finally gained control of the entire group of islands, including -Borabora. - -MISSIONARY RULE - - It is better that men should be governed by priestcraft than violence. - - LORD MACAULEY. - -The early missionaries of Tahiti played an important role in the island -politics. They did not limit their work to the conversion of the heathen -islanders, but took an active part in political affairs, and many of -their doings in that direction were not in accord with the teachings of -the gospel. The first missionaries sent to Tahiti from England reached -the island in the _Duff_, March, 1797. They received information of the -island politics from two Swedish sailors, Andrew Lind, of the ship -_Matilda_, which had been wrecked in the South Sea in 1792, and Peter -Haggerstein, who deserted from the _Daedalus_ in February, 1793. Both of -these men were adventurers of the type that has infested the South Seas -for more than a century. They became well-known characters in the -history of the island, sometimes assisting the missionaries, and -sometimes annoying them. In July, 1797, Peter accompanied one of the -missionaries as a guide and interpreter, on a circuit round the island, -to make a sort of census, as a starting-point for the missionary work. -They began with Papenoo, July 11th, and as they walked, Peter boasted of -his exploits. His stories were so much in conflict with facts that they -rather misled than aided the missionaries in search of island affairs. -Temarii, the chief of Papara, had visited the missionaries at Matavai. -The missionaries gave the following account of him: - - May 7, 1797, visited by the chief priest from Papara, Temarre. He was - dressed in a wrapper of Otaheitian cloth, and over it an officer's - coat doubled around him. At his first approach he appeared timid, and - was invited in. He was just about seated when the cuckoo clock struck - and filled him with astonishment and terror. Old Pyetea had brought - the bird some breadfruit, observing it must be starved if we never fed - it. At breakfast we invited Temarii to our repast, but he first held - out his hand with a bit of plantain and looked very solemn, which, one - of the natives said, was an offering to Eatooa (Tahitian divinity) and - we must receive it. When we had taken it out of his hand and laid it - under the table, he sat down and made a hearty breakfast. Brother - Cover read the translated address to all these respected guests, the - natives listening with attention, and particularly the priest, who - seemed to drink in every word, but appeared displeased when urged to - cast away their false gods, and on hearing the names of Jehovah and - Jesus he would turn and whisper. Two days afterwards, Temarii came - again to the mission house and this time with the young Otoo, Pomare - H., and his first wife Tetuanui. - -Here again is the account of the visit by the missionaries: - - May 9th, Temarre accompanied the king and queen and staid to dine with - us. He is, we find, of the royal race and son of the famed Oberea. He - is the first chief of the island after Pomarre, by whom he has been - subdued, and now lives in friendship with him and has adopted his son. - He is also high in esteem as a priest. - -In July of the same year the missionaries visited Temarii at Papara on -their way around the island. They found the chief under the influence of -Kava, but were feasted the next day on Temarii's feast pig. Not only was -Temarii the most powerful chief of the island, but Pomare had become, by -his son's accession, a chief of the second order. He depended greatly on -the favor of his son, the young Tu, who was, in 1797, supposed to be at -least fifteen and perhaps seventeen years of age, and who had been -adopted by Temarii, his cousin, who was about ten years older than he. -Adoption was rather stronger in the South Seas than the tie of natural -parentage. Between his natural father, Pomare, and his adopted father, -Temarii, the young Tu preferred the latter, and sooner or later every -one knew that Temarii would help Tu to emancipate himself and drive -Pomare from the island. - - - -The _Duff_ sailed for England August 14, 1797, leaving the missionaries to -the mercies of rival factions, and they soon ascertained that Pomare and -Tu were on anything but friendly terms. The missionaries had faith in -Pomare, who chose one of them by the name of Cover as a brother. Temarii -chose another by the name of Main. These two missionaries went to Papara -August 15th, at the suggestion of the influential native priest, Manne -Manne, to remonstrate against a human sacrifice which was to be made at -the Marae Tooarai. On account of a murder recently committed, the -missionaries found the chief and people greatly excited, and fled as -quickly as possible. - -In the month of March the missionaries found themselves in a critical -condition when the ship _Nautilus_ appeared and two of her crew deserted. -The deserters went to Pare and were sheltered there. The captain of the -_Nautilus_ at once set to work to recover them. Four of the missionaries -proceeded to Pare to see Tu, Pomare and Temarii and informed them that a -refusal to return the men would be regarded as exhibiting an evil -intention against the missionaries. They found Tu and Temarii at Pare, -but went to get Pomare to join them, when they were suddenly attacked -and stripped by some thirty natives, who took their clothes and treated -them rather roughly, but at last released them. They went to Pomare's -house and were kindly received. Pomare returned with them to Tu, and -insisted on the punishment of the offenders and the delivery of the -deserters. Two were executed, and the district of Pare took up arms to -avenge them. Tu joined his father and suppressed the riot, so that the -missionaries' clothes cost the natives fifteen lives before order was -restored. This incident made the missionaries very unpopular and they -had to depend more than ever on Pomare for protection. - -On August 24th, two whaling vessels, the _Cornwall_ and _Sally_, of London, -anchored in Matavai Bay, and most of the principal chiefs went on board. -On the 30th, while the missionaries were at dinner, Pomare came in great -haste, and told them that a man had been blown up with gunpowder at the -Council house in Pare, and requested them to hasten to the place and -render assistance. When they arrived they found that the injured man was -Temarii. Here is the account of the affair by the missionaries: - - At our arrival we were led to the bed of Temaree called also Orepiah, - and beheld such a spectacle as we had never before seen. Brother - Broomhall began immediately to apply what he had prepared with a - camel's-hair brush over most parts of the body. He was apparently more - passive under the operation than we could conceive a man in his - situation would be capable of. The night drawing on, we took leave of - him by saying we would return next morning with a fresh preparation. - On the following morning we were struck with much surprise at the - appearance of the patient He was literally daubed with something like - a thick white paste. Upon inquiry we found it to be the scrapings of - yams. Both the chief and his wife seemed highly offended at Brother - Broomhall's application the preceding evening, and they would not - permit him to do anything more for him, as he had felt so much pain - from what he had applied. It was said that there was a curse put into - the medicine by our God. - -It must be remembered that the Tahitian chiefs were also priests and not -infrequently acted as physicians. The dissatisfaction of Temarii with -the treatment of his case by the missionaries had therefore to be -considered as a most unfortunate affair. Under these conditions the -missionaries were apprehensive of increasing hostilities. The suspicion -on part of the superstitious natives that the missionaries had been sent -by Pomare to curse Temarii and cause his death was not only a natural -but a reasonable one to the chief as well as his subjects. Pomare was -quite capable of such conduct and as far as the natives knew, the -missionaries were Pomare's friends and supporters. The accident which -gave rise to this unfortunate occurrence was due to the English -gunpowder and it was fortunate that the missionaries had nothing to do -with furnishing it. The explosion occurred while Temarii was testing the -quality of powder which he obtained from the whalers _Cornwall_ and _Sally_. - - A pistol was loaded and unthinkingly fired in the midst of a number of - people, over the whole quantity (five pounds) of powder received. A - spark of fire dropped from the pistol upon the powder that lay on the - ground, and in a moment it blew up. The natives did not feel - themselves hurt at first, but when the smoke was somewhat dispersed, - observing their skin fouled with powder, they began to rub their arms, - and found the skin peeling off under their fingers. Terrified at this, - they instantly ran to a river near at hand and plunged themselves in. - -Temarii lingered in great suffering till September 8th, but the -missionaries did not dare to visit him again for fear of violence on the -part of the indignant natives. The whole body of chiefs was present and -looked on in consternation while Temarii died. The chief's remains were -carried, in the usual state, round the island to all his districts and -duly mourned; and in the regular course prescribed by the island -ceremonial, his head was secretly hidden in the cave at Papara. These -demonstrations served to spread the news of the calamity, for which the -missionaries received the exclusive blame. The political complications -which followed induced Pomare to seek safety in flight to the Paumotu -Islands, leaving his wife to face the storm. The chiefess was not idle -after her husband's cowardly flight. On the 29th of November she -compromised with Tu by ceding to him the authority he wanted, and -obtained from him a pledge assuring her safety. This guaranty was the -life of the high priest, old Manne Manne, Tu's best friend. He was -murdered by Tetuanui's people on his way from Matavai to Pare. The -chiefess was in the missionaries' house when this news arrived. She had -a cartridge-box around her waist and a musket near at hand. She shook -hands in a friendly manner with the Swede, saying unto him, "It is all -over," meaning the war, and immediately returned to her home. Pomare -gained nothing by these dissensions, for he had nothing to gain, but had -to sacrifice a part of his possessions. The only winner in this tragic -game was the worst and most bloodthirsty of all, Tu, the first Christian -king. It must be remarked that this king was the creation of the -English, and that he was used as a tool in the hands of the -missionaries. The Europeans came, and not only upset all the moral ideas -of the natives, but also their whole political system. Before European -influence made itself felt in Tahiti, whenever a chief became -intolerably arrogant or dangerous, the other chiefs united to overthrow -him. All the wars that are remembered in island traditions were caused -by the overweening pride, violence or abnormal ambition of the great -chiefs of districts, and always ended in correcting existing evils and -in restoring the balance of power. - -The English came just at the time when one of these revolutions was in -progress. The whole island had united to punish the chiefess of Papara -for outrageous disregard of the island courtesies which took the place -of international law between great chiefs. Purea had taken away the -symbol of sovereignty she had assumed for her son, and had given it for -safe-keeping to the chief of Paea. The natives and chiefs had recognized -the chief of Pare, Arue, as entitled to wear the Maro-ura, which Purea -had denied him by insulting his wife. Then the chief of Paea had tried -to imitate Purea and assert supreme authority, only to be in his turn -defeated and killed. - - - -Probably Tu would never have attempted a similar course if the English -had not insisted on recognizing and treating him as king of the whole -island. He was one of the weakest of the chiefs and enjoyed little if -any reputation as a military power. The other chiefs would have easily -kept him in his proper place if the English had not constantly supported -him and restored him to power when he was vanquished. English -interference and the assistance of the missionaries prolonged his -ambition and caused the constant revolutions which gave no chance for -the people to recover from the losses. Pomare was a shrewd politician -and with the assistance of English guns finally gained control over the -whole island, crushing tribal rule, the safeguard of the people under -his despotic rule. All visitors to the island became aware how -desperately the unfortunate people struggled against the English policy -of creating and supporting a tyranny. The brutality and violence of Tu -made him equally hated by his own people of Pare and by the Teva -districts. Of these facts the missionaries had full knowledge, as is -evident from their numerous correspondents, nevertheless, they assisted -him in carrying out his plans to gain control over the entire island. -They supplied him freely with firearms and ammunition. To preserve peace -the missionaries did some very curious things which suggest, as they -hinted, that they were glad to see the natives fighting together, as is -evident from one of their daily records: - - August 20, 1800.—We hear great preparations are making, whether for - war or peace is to be determined in a short time, by some heathenish - divination. If it should prove for war, those who are eager for blood - seem determined to glut themselves, we rejoice that the Lord of Hosts - is the God of the heathen as well as the Captain of the Armies of - Israel; and while the potsherds of the earth are dashing themselves to - pieces one against the other, they are fulfilling his determinate - counsels and foreknowledge. - -In the month of June Pomare instituted a wholesale massacre to subject -the entire island to his rule, and by brutal force gained the object of -his ambition. In 1808 the political situation was such that the -missionaries found it necessary for their safety to leave the island, -and fled with Pomare, November 12th, to the island of Moorea. Pomare's -cruelties and atrocities practiced upon the natives during his -tyrannical rule are well described in a pen-picture drawn by Moerenhout: - - After having massacred all whom they had surprised (in Attahura), - after having burned the houses, they went on to Papara, where Tati, - who is still living (1837), was chief; but fortunately a man who had - escaped from the carnage of Punaauia came to warn the inhabitants of - Papara, so that they had time, not to unite in defense, but to fly. - Nevertheless, in that infernal night and the day following a great - number of persons perished, especially old men, women and children; - and among the victims were the widow and children of Aripaia - (Ariifaataia) Amo's son, who, surprised the next evening near - Taiarahu, were pitilessly massacred with all their attendants. Tati - and some of his warriors succeeded in reaching a fort called - Papeharoro, at Mairepehe; but they were too few to maintain themseives - there, and were forced to take refuge in the most inaccessible parts - of the high mountains, from whence this chief succeeded in getting to - a canoe which some of his faithful followers provided for him, and - kept in readiness on the shore, at the peril of their lives. With him - were his brother and his young son, whom he had himself carried in his - arms during all this time of fatigue and dangers. - -Opuhara became chief of Papara, and soon afterward chief of the island, -and remained the chief personage of Tahiti during the next seven years. -Ellis, the historian of the missionaries, described him as an -intelligent and interesting man. - -At Moorea, Pomare's friends were Paumotuans, Boraborans, Raiateans, -missionaries, and outcasts. Even these at last abandoned him. The -missionary journal shows that they had long regarded their work as a -failure, and after identifying themselves with Pomare, in spite of -emphatic warnings, no other result was possible. So the missionaries, -leaving only Mr. Nott at Moorea, sailed for Australia, not daring to -accept the proffered protection of the Tahiti chiefs, because they could -not separate themselves, in the minds of the common people, from Pomare -and his interests. At Moorea, Pomare urged the visiting chiefs to become -Christians. On the 18th of July, 1812, he announced his own decision to -the missionaries, and shortly afterwards, on invitation from his old -district of Pare Arue, he returned to Tahiti, where he was permitted to -remain for two years, as an avowed Christian, unmolested by his old -enemies. He took up his residence at Pare Arue as a Christian chief, -August 13, 1812, and kept up a correspondence with the missionaries at -Moorea. - -The missionaries returned and were more successful in Christianizing the -people. On the 17th of February, 1813, Pomare wrote: "Matavai has been -delivered up to me. When I am perfectly assured of the sincerity of this -surrender I will write to you another letter." The missionaries made a -tour of the island; many conversions took place; in Moorea several idols -were publicly burned; there could be no doubt that the Christians were -pursuing an active course, and that their success would bring back the -authority of Pomare over the whole island; but neither Opuhara nor Tati -interfered, and the peace remained. Yet, after waiting two years at -Pare, vainly expecting the restoration of his government, and -endeavoring to recover his authority in his hereditary districts, Pomare -returned to Moorea in the autumn of 1814, accompanied by a large train -of adherents and dependents, all professing Christianity. At the same -time the Christian converts in Tahiti became an organization known as -the Bure Atua, and every one could see that Pomare was making use of -them, and of his wife's resources, to begin a new effort to recover by -force his authority in the island. War was inevitable, and Pomare, with -his Christian followers and missionaries, could choose the time and -place. - -Pomare himself was not a soldier, nor had he anything of a soldierly -spirit. He left active campaigning to his wives, who were less likely to -rouse the old enmity. His two wives, Terite and Pomare vehine, came over -to Pare Arue May, 1815, with a large party of Christians, and urged -their plans for the overthrow of the native chiefs. The chiefs had no -other alternative than to get rid of them, and fixed the night of July -7th for the combined attack. Opuhara led the forces, and it is said that -he had given the two queens timely warning to effect their escape. For -his delay some of the other chiefs charged him with treachery. He -replied that he wished no harm to the two women or their people; that -his enemies were the Parionuu; and he marched directly into Pare Arue, -and subdued it once more. - - - -While Pomare and the missionaries grew stronger, and, as Ellis expressed -it, "became convinced that the time was not very remote when their faith -and principles must rise preeminent above the power and influence" of -the native chiefs, the chiefs themselves exhibited vacillation. Pomare -returned, with all his following, apparently armed and prepared for war. -The native converts were trained to the use of firearms and the whole -missionary interest became, for the moment, actively militant. The -native chiefs remained passive. Under the appearance of religious -services, Pomare and the missionaries kept their adherents under arms -and prepared them for any hostilities that might arise. - -With his army numbering eight hundred, two war canoes, one manned with -musketeers, the other with a swivel gun in the stern, commanded by a -white man, Pomare, on November 11th, took possession at or near the -village of Punaauia, near Papara, with pickets far in advance. Opuhara -hastily summoned his men in the famous battle of Fei-pi (the ripe -plantains). The field of battle was among the foothills near the coast. -Opuhara's warriors made a valiant attack and pierced the front ranks of -the enemy till it reached the spot where one of the queens, Pomare -vehine, and the chief warriors stood. There one of the native converts -leveled his gun at Opuhara, fired, the chief fell, and in a very short -time expired. The leader of the native forces was killed by one of his -own people who had cast his lot with Pomare and the missionaries. - -This war was brought on to force the natives to Pomare's rule, and not -for the purpose of removing obstacles to the Christianization of the -islanders, as the chiefs were not opposed to the peaceable dissemination -of the teachings of the gospel. It was a political and not a religious -war, and in this political endeavor the missionaries and their converts -took the leading part. The missionaries evidently forgot the legitimate -object of their mission and unmercifully slaughtered the natives who -took up arms to defend their rights. The Christians on Pomare's side -were fighting for supremacy, unmindful of the teachings of the sacred -Scriptures. - - For he shall have judgment without mercy, that hath showed no mercy; - and mercy rejoiceth against judgment St. James ii: 13. - -When Opuhara fell, his men lost courage, retreated, and were not -pursued. The death of Opuhara was deeply regretted by Tati, his near -relative and successor in the government of the district. In the ranks -of his followers it was firmly believed Opuhara, few as his forces were, -would have vanquished the enemy, had not the native missionaries been -taught to shoot as they were taught to pray, and been supplied with guns -along with Bibles. With the death of Opuhara the last hope of the -natives was dissipated and submission to Pomare's rule became a stern -reality. Neither the missionaries nor the natives had any idea of -allowing Pomare to recede into his old ways. They made him refrain from -massacre or revenge after the battle of Fei-pi. Tati, the chief of -Papara, maintained peace from that time by his wise rule in that part of -the island. He began by the usual island custom of binding Pomare to him -by the strongest possible ties. The rapid extinction of chiefly families -in Tahiti had left the head chief of Moorea heir to most of the -distinguished names and properties in both islands. Marama, the head -chief of Moorea, had only one heir, a daughter, a relative of Pomare. -This great heiress, almost the last remnant of the three or four sacred -families of the two islands, was given by Pomare in marriage to Tati's -son, immediately after Tati himself was restored to his rights as head -chief of the Tevas. In doing so he claimed for his own the first child -that Marama (the bride) should have and made at the same time a compact -that the children from the marriage should marry into the Pomare family. -These conditions were made to render himself more influential with the -most refractory of the conquered tribes. Pomare II. died December 7, -1821, leaving a daughter, Aimata, and a son, Pomare III., a child in -arms. Aimata was never regarded with favor by Pomare, her father, who -was frank in saying that she was not his child; so the infant son was -made heir to the throne. Moerenhout made the statement that Pomare, on -his deathbed, expressed the wish that Tati should take the reins of the -government in his hands, but that the missionaries and other chiefs were -afraid to trust Tati, and preferred to take the charge of the infant -king on themselves. The missionaries in due time went through the formal -ceremony of crowning the infant, April 22, 1824, at Papara, and then -took him to their school, the South Sea Academy, which was established -in March, 1824, in the island of Moorea at Papetoai. There he was taught -to read and write, and educated in English, which became his language, -until he was seven years old, when he fell ill, and was taken over to -his mother at Pare, where he died January 11, 1827. During the reign of -the infant king, Mata, a friend of the family, managed the affairs of -state and became the guardian of Aimata, as the Queen, Pomare IV., was -always called by the natives. Aimata was married at the age of nine -years. She led an unhappy life, domestic, political, private and public, -until at last the missionaries, English and French, fought so violently -for control of her and the island that she was actually driven away. - -Among other laws which were supposed to have been passed through the -influence of the English missionaries, to prevent strangers from -obtaining influence in the island, was one dated March 1, 1833, -forbidding strangers, under any pretext, from marrying in Tahiti or -Moorea. Ariitaimai, of noble birth, the historian of Tahiti, was not -inclined to marry a native chief, a decision which met the approval of -Marama, her mother. She finally consented to become the wife of Mr. -Salmon, an Englishman, who was held in high esteem and consideration in -the island; and Aimata suspended the law in order to enable her friend -to be married to the man of her choice. The missionaries virtually ruled -the island for forty years. - -WARS BETWEEN PROTESTANT AND CATHOLIC MISSIONARIES - -In 1836 two French missionary priests landed at Tahiti to convert, not -pagans, but Protestants to the Roman Catholic faith. The Protestant -missionaries, who held the reins of the government, indignant at this -interference, invoked the aid of the British consul, Pritchard, who -caused the Queen to order their arrest and expulsion. The order was -executed December 12, 1836. The two priests made a protest to their -government, and King Louis Philippe sent a frigate to Papeete with the -usual ultimatum, to which the Queen naturally acceded. Then began a -struggle on the part of Consul Pritchard and the English missionaries to -recover their ground, which led to a letter from Queen Pomare to Queen -Victoria, suggesting a British protectorate, whereupon the French -government sent another warship to Tahiti, in 1839, and made Aimata -repeat her submission. As the British government at that time did not -take much interest in missionaries, and Sir Robert Peel had a very -precise knowledge of the value of unclaimed islands all over the world, -Queen Victoria did not accept the proposition made by the Tahitian -Queen, and the missionaries were again thrown on their own resources. - - - -The chiefs ignored the missionaries, and in September, 1841, decided -that, between such powers as England and France, they could not hope to -maintain independence or even a good understanding, and since England -refused the proffered protectorate, they would turn to France. So they -drew up the necessary papers for the Queen to approve, but a British war -vessel arrived in that critical moment, and this reenforcement of -British interests induced the vacillating Queen to refuse to sign them. -The next August another French naval force arrived, and the chiefs again -met in council, with the admiral's aid and advice. The chiefs sent the -following letter to the French admiral, Du Petit—Tuhouars: - - Inasmuch as we can not continue to govern ourselves so as to live on - good terms with foreign governments, and we are in danger of losing - our island, our kingdom, and our liberty, we, the Queen and the high - chiefs of Tahiti, write to ask the King of the French to take us under - his protection. - -In response to this formal request the French admiral, on September 30, -1842, hoisted the flag of the protectorate. This did not end the -political and religious troubles of the little island. Consul Pritchard, -who had been absent from his post for some time, returned from England -February 23, 1843, and declared violent war against the French. As -usual, Queen Pomare yielded to his wishes, and refused to obey those of -the French admiral. The admiral lost his patience and temper, landed -troops and took possession of the island, declared the Queen deposed, -and, when disturbances arose, which he believed to be fomented and -fostered by Pritchard, he arrested him and had him expelled from the -island. This act excited much attention, both in the English and French -press, which resulted in an order from the King of France to the admiral -to restore the protectorate. - -It will be seen that the last wars of Tahiti were caused by a religious -intolerance on the part of the English missionaries, who objected to the -presence of two Roman Catholic priests in the island. European -governments were appealed to and had to interfere in establishing in the -island free religious thought. It was a fight between two religious -denominations which kept the natives in a state of warfare, a most -serious reflection on Christian charity, - - Alas for the rarity - - Of Christian charity - - Under the sun. - - HOOD. - -The constant unrest of the islanders caused by outside interference -provoked frequent rebellions, for "general rebellions and revolts of an -whole people never were encouraged, now or at any time; they are always -provoked." - -The two priests, bent upon a humane mission, who, by their presence in -Tahiti, without any fault of their own, incurred the enmity of the -Protestant missionaries, were the direct cause of French intervention -which resulted in the protectorate and later annexation of the island. -The priests remained, new ones came, and today nearly one-half of the -population of the island are members of the Roman Catholic church. - -The teachings and example of the English missionaries and their conduct -toward the Catholic priests prove only too plainly: - - Christian graces and virtues they can not be, unless fed, invigorated - and animated by universal charity. - - ATTERBURY. - - - -THE LAST WAR - - Our country sinks beneath the yoke; - - It weeps, it bleeds, and each new day a gash - - Is added to her wounds. - - SHAKESPEARE. - -The disturbances which preceded and followed the establishment of the -French protectorate induced the Queen to seek safety on a British ship, -and the whole Pomare following took up arms and established themselves -in the stronghold of native power and influence near Papeete. Another -civil war broke out which waged between the natives and Europeans from -1844 to 1845. Tired of foreign dictation and oppression, the natives -fought with desperation. Forts, which remain today in a good state of -preservation, were erected by natives and the French. Most of the ruins -of these forts are scattered along the ninety-mile drive between Papeete -and Papara. From time to time, determined attacks were made with varying -fortunes of war. The natives were superior in number but could not stand -up against the well-directed firearms of the professional soldiers. A -last and crushing attack was ordered by the French admiral, which meant -certain defeat for the natives. - -It was at this critical time that a woman came to the rescue of her -people and prevented a wholesale slaughter of the heroic defenders of -the island. This woman was Ariitaimai, the authoress of the book we have -been following so closely in sketching the history of the island. She -was the daughter of the famous Marama, of Moorea, the wife of Mr. -Salmon, and the mother of Tati Salmon, the present chief of Papara. She -recognized the hopelessness of the cause of her people and determined to -prevent further useless bloodshed and establish peace. It required good -judgment and a great deal of courage to undertake the task which she -finally accomplished with such a brilliant success. She was one of those -who believed that - - Almost all difficulties may be got the better of by prudent thought, - revolving and pondering much in the mind. - - MARCELLINUS. - -She was intensely patriotic and had no fear of the results of her daring -mission. She was very popular with the natives and well known to the -French authorities, which aided her very much in formulating and -carrying out her plans. She had no time to lose, as the decisive attack -on her countrymen had been ordered and was to take place the next day. -She called on Bruaat, the governor of the island, with the determined -intention to end the war. He granted her twenty-four hours to accomplish -her task. She then called a meeting of the head chiefs and urged them to -surrender on the conditions stipulated by the French, in view of the -hopelessness of the island's cause. At that time this woman was the most -conspicuous figure in the politics of the island, loved and respected by -the chiefs and the people throughout Tahiti and Moorea. The head chiefs -received her proposition with favor. Notable speeches complimentary to -her were made on this occasion. One chief said: - - Ariitaimai, you have flown amongst us, as it were, like the two birds, - Ruataa and Toena. Your object was to join together Urarii and Mauu, - and you have brought them into this valley. You have brought the - cooling medicines of _vainu_ and _mahainuieumu_ into the hearts of the - chiefs that are collected here. Our hearts yearn for you, and we can - not in words thank you; but the land, one and all, will prove to you - in the future that your visit will always remain in their memory. You - have come personally. I have heard you speak the words out of your own - mouth. You have brought us the best of all goods, which is peace. You - have done this when you thought we were in great trouble, and ran the - risk of losing our lives and property; you have come forward as a - peacemaker for us all. - -What beautiful thoughts in simple, homely language! What a splendid -specimen of natural oratory! - - In oratory, affectation must be avoided; it being better for a man by - a native and clear eloquence to express himself than by those words - which may smell either of the lamp or ink-horn. - - LORD HERBERT OF CHERBURY. - -The chiefs unanimously accepted the terms of peace, and after the -adjournment of the council, Ariitaimai hastened to Papeete with the -message of the chiefs, which was accepted, and once more the -protectorate flag was raised and was recognized and respected by the -chiefs and the people. During all these great final trials of the -island, the Queen remained in the island of Moorea and even after peace -was restored and she was formally requested to return, she refused to do -so. The French authorities offered the crown repeatedly to Ariitaimai, -but as often, she refused the great honor. The exiled Queen was her -intimate and dear friend and - - Ennuis has well remarked that "a real friend is known in adversity." - - CICERO. - -She was content with having accomplished a patriotic deed and with the -respect, love and gratitude of her people. - - So true it is, that honor, prudently declined, often comes back with - increased lustre. - - LIVIUS. - -She could say: - - Give me a staff of honour for mine age; - - But not a sceptre to control the world. - - SHAKESPEARE. - -and - - Tis less to conquer than to make wars cease, - - And, without fighting, awe the world to peace. - - HALIFAX. - -Ariitaimai made several visits to the unhappy Queen, urging her to -return and resume her reign of the island, and had the satisfaction, -finally, to bring her back from Raiatea on her third visit. - - True friends visit us in prosperity only when invited, but in - adversity they come without invitation. - - THEOPHRASTUS. - -The Queen, on her return, was received with regal honors by the French -authorities and by the people. - -Pomare V. was the last of the kings of Tahiti. He was the oldest son of -Queen Pomare IV. and known as Ariiane Pomare. He was married to Marau -Taawa Salmon, Tati Salmon's sister, and had two daughters: -Teriimii-o-Tahiti, and Arii mainhinihi. Under European influences and -customs he became a degenerate Tahitian, profligate and dissipated, and -it is said that he was largely responsible for the annexation of the -island to France as a colony in 1880, as he received a substantial -remuneration for his influence in that direction and a pension of sixty -thousand francs a year. He died in 1891. Since Tahiti has become a -French possession the island has enjoyed uninterrupted peace. The French -government has been exceedingly liberal with the natives, having -interfered as little as possible with their habits and customs. - - That is the best government which desires to make the people happy, - and knows how to make them happy. - - MACAULEY. - -The island is governed under the French laws, but local laws and tribal -rule remain and administer the local affairs. In completing the eventful -history of this little island it becomes apparent: - - What is public history but a register of the successes and - disappointments, the vices, the follies and quarrels of those engaged - in the contention for power. - - PALEY. - -The government has established and enforced religious liberty, observing -the precept: "The protection of religion is indispensable to all -government" (Bishop Warburton). Taxation is limited to road tax only. -The annexation was looked upon with great disfavor by the natives, but -was finally accepted with good grace, and peace and happiness have -reigned since. - -THE NATIVES - -The Polynesians inhabiting the islands of the great Pacific Ocean -constitute a distinct race of people, supposed at one time by certain -writers to be of American origin, now almost universally admitted to -have a close affinity with the Malays of the peninsula and Indian -Archipelago, and hence classified by Dr. Latham under his subdivision -_Oceanica Mongolidæ_. In physical structure and appearance the Polynesians -in general more nearly resemble the Malays than they do any other race, -although differing from them in some respects, as, indeed, the natives -of several of the groups also do from each other. Centuries and -environment have left their impress on the inhabitants of the different -islands, as - - Everything that is created is changed by the laws of man; the earth - does not know itself in the revolution of years; even the races of man - assume various forms in the course of years. - - MANILIUS. - - - -In stature the Tahitian compares well with any other race. The face is -expressive of more than ordinary intelligence. The color of the skin -varies from almost black to a light yellow. The aquiline nose is -commonly seen among them, and there are many varieties of hair and -complexion. In complexion they resemble more nearly the Japanese than -the Chinese. The beard is thin, the prevailing hair jet black, straight, -wavy or curly, profuse and long; eyes large and black; no drooping or -obliquity of eyelids. The face is generally roundish; lower jaw well -developed; no unusual malar prominences; forehead slightly receding; -mouth large, lips thick and as a rule slightly everted; wide nostrils; -ears large; chin prominent. The general resemblance of stature and -physiognomy, however, is more with the Malays than any other race, and -from which they are undoubtedly the descendants, changed by climatic -influences, food, habits and methods of living. In physical appearance -the Tahitians and Samoans are the handsomest and tallest of all the -natives of the Pacific Islands, with the exception, perhaps, of the -Maoris, or New Zealanders. - -The superstition of the taboo, the use of kava as an intoxicating drink, -cannibalism, infanticide, offering of human sacrifices, tattooing, and -circumcision, which were formerly prevalent in Tahiti, have disappeared -under the influence of Christianity. - -Much has been said about the beauty of some of the women of the South -Sea Islands, but I am sure I do them no injustice if I say that these -descriptions are overdrawn by sentimental writers and do not correspond, -when put to the test of comparison, with the reality. When young, there -is something fascinating about the women, imparted by the luxurious -jet-black hair, the large black eyes as they gaze at the strangers - - With a smile that is childlike and bland. - - FRANCIS BRET HARTE. - -Beauty and youth among the Tahitian women are of short duration, and in -most of them advanced age brings an undesirable degree of corpulence. - -Cook visited these people when they were in their original physical and -moral state. He praises their openness and generosity. "Neither does -care ever seem to wrinkle their brow. On the contrary, even the approach -of death does not appear to alter their usual vivacity. I have seen -them, when brought to the brink of the grave by disease, and when -preparing to go to battle; but in neither case, never observed their -countenance overclouded with melancholy, or serious reflection. Such a -disposition leads them to direct all their aims only to what can give -them pleasure and ease." - - The whole countenance is a certain silent language of the mind. - - CICERO. - -These mental traits have been preserved up to the present time. -Melancholy and suicide are almost unknown in Tahiti. The people are -happy, contented and free from care and anxiety and - - Enjoy the pleasures of the passing hour, and bid adieu for a time to - grave pursuits. - - HORATIUS. - -They seem to know that - - Care and the desire for more - - Attend the still increasing store. - - HORATIUS. - -Desire for great wealth does not exist among the natives. Nature has -supplied them with nearly all they need, hence little remains for them -to do to meet their modest desires. - -Religion has not done away entirely with superstition, and has improved -their morals little, if any. Old European residents of Papeete agree -that the morality of the natives has not improved since they have been -under the influence of civilization, forced on them by the European -invaders. The greatest fault of the people is their incurable laziness, -a vice for which they are not entirely responsible, as Nature has -provided so bountifully for their needs. Robbery, stealing and murder -are almost unknown; petty thefts, on the contrary, are quite common. The -people, young and old, are affable, extremely courteous and hospitable -to a fault; the family ties strong, and extending to the remotest -relatives. - - Man is a social animal, and born to live together so as to regard the - world as one house. - - SENECA. - -Nowhere in the world are the people more sociable than in Tahiti. This -sociability was perhaps more pronounced before the island was discovered -than it is now, but it remains to this day as one of the prominent -characteristics of the Polynesian race. Respect and love for parents, -strong attachments to relatives and friends, are striking virtues of the -Tahitians. They love social intercourse and have the highest regard for -friendship. Poverty and misfortunes do not intercept friendships, on the -contrary they cement them more firmly. - - The firmest friendships have been formed in mutual adversity; as iron - is most strongly united by the fiercest flames. - - COLTON. - -Before European influence had made itself felt in the island, each tribe -constituted a large family, and property lines were not sharply defined. -As long as there was anything to eat, no one was left hungry. The -Tahitians are extremely fond of mingling with their relatives, friends, -members of the same and other tribes. They appreciate to the fullest -extent that "we have been born to unite with fellow-men, and to join in -community with the human race" (Cicero). They treat old age with -reverence and respect, and take the very best care of the sick and poor. - - Unity of feelings and affections is the strongest relationship. - - PUBLIUS SYRUS. - - - -Under the teachings of the missionaries, Protestant and Catholic, -paganism has disappeared from the island. All are church-members and -attend service regularly. The denominations represented are the -Episcopalians, Catholics and Latter-day Saints in above numerical order. -Most of the priests and preachers are natives. Christianity, has, -however, failed to suppress immorality and do away entirely with the -inborn superstition of the natives. The former evil is firmly rooted, -the latter difficult of complete eradication. - - Nothing has more power over the multitude than superstition: in other - respects powerless, ferocious, fickle, when it is once captivated by - superstitious notions, it obeys its priests better than its leaders. - - QUINTUS CURTIUS RUFUS. - -Wicked habits are productive of vice, and vice follows long-standing -habits. The Tahitians are by nature kind, affectionate, and their -opinions are easily moulded for good or bad, but many of their customs -and habits cling to them in spite of civilization and Christianization, -for "how many unjust and wicked things are done from mere habit!" -(Terentius); and "so much power has custom over tender minds" -(Virgilius). - -The children of Tahiti are given excellent opportunities for obtaining a -good elementary education. In all of the larger villages there is a -government school, usually two churches. Catholic and Protestant, and -their respective parochial schools. The natives love their language and -are averse to the French, hence, as a rule, the parochial are better -patronized than the government schools. The literature in the Tahitian -language is limited to translations of the Bible, catechisms, religious -song books and a few school books. Children of the better classes who -seek a higher education, go abroad, in preference to the United States. -Few show any ambition to enter any of the professions with the exception -of the clerical. The mass of the people are content in leading an easy, -dreamy life, showing no disposition either to acquire wealth or fame. -Agriculture, manufacture and commerce have no attraction for them. They -are children from the cradle to the grave, have the desires of children, -and are pleased with what pleases children. Their tastes are simple, -their desires few, and instead of in care and worry, they live through -their span of life in peace of mind and contentment. - - But if men would live according to reason's rules, they would find the - greatest riches to live content with little, for there is never want - where the mind is satisfied. - - LUCRETIUS. - -In contrast to the Westerner, the favored Tahitian can say: - - I have everything, yet have nothing; and although I possess nothing, - still of nothing am I in want. - - TERRENCE. - -The natives are temperate in drinking, and frugal in eating. Fish and -fruit are their principal articles of diet. Their habits in this -direction have not undergone much change since Captain Cook wrote: - - Their common diet is made up of at least nine-tenths vegetable food; - and, I believe, more particularly, the _mahee_, or fermented breadfruit, - which enters almost every meal, has a remarkable effect upon them, - preventing a costive habit, and producing a very sensible coolness - about them, which could not be perceived in us who fed on animal food. - And it is, perhaps, owing to this temperate course of life that they - have so few diseases among them. - -Smoking is indulged in only to a moderate extent, cigarettes and pipe -being the favorite methods of consuming the weed. - -Art has never had a place in the minds of the Tahitians. All attempts in -this direction in design, carving and sculpture, are rude. Like all -primitive peoples, they are fond of music. Their voices are sweet, but -the airs of their music are monotonous. The primitive drum, and a little -crude instrument made of bamboo, something like a flute, placed in one -of the nostrils when played, are the instruments in most common use. The -national dance, formerly the principal amusement of the people, is -discouraged by the government, but is allowed once a year as a special -favor to the natives. - -FOREIGNERS IN TAHITI - -Most of the foreigners who remain permanently in Tahiti become attached -to the island by marriage, the strongest possible incentive to make it -their permanent home. Many of these men are adventurers. Some of them -have honest intentions to make this beautiful island their permanent -home. Far away from their place of birth and relatives, charmed by the -beauties of the island, they conclude: - - I will take some savage woman; she shall rear my dusky race. - - TENNYSON. - -In many instances such unions have resulted very happily. On the voyage -from San Francisco to Tahiti, I met Mr. George R. Richardson, a native -of Springfield, Mass., who had lived for the last thirty years, with his -native wife on the little atoll island, Kaukuaia of the Tuamotu group, -one hundred and sixty-eight miles from Tahiti. He was suffering from -carcinoma of the esophagus, and was returning from San Francisco, -whither he had gone for medical advice. His parents were still living, -but he had no desire to visit the place of his birth, so fully had he -become acclimated to the climatic and native conditions of the Society -Islands. He was then fifty-five years of age. He left the United States -March 4, 1874, on a sailing vessel, and six months later landed at -Tahxa. In six months he had obtained a fair knowledge of the native -language, and married in Kaukuaia a woman who could not speak a word of -English. This union resulted in sixteen children, three of whom died, -six girls and seven boys living at the present time, and of these, three -girls and two boys are married. Through his wife he inherited from her -mother five acres of land with three thousand cocoanut-palms. To this -land he obtained a legal ownership eight years ago by virtue of a law of -legal registration passed by the government. The island on which he -lives contains only one hundred and fifty inhabitants and the only -income is obtained from copra and mother-of-pearl. - - - -The inhabitants of this island are Catholics and Mormons. A Catholic -priest comes once a month to minister to the spiritual needs of the -adherents to the faith of his church. The services of both denominations -are conducted in the native language. He and a Frenchman are the only -white inhabitants of the island. - -On February 16, 1878, a great storm overflooded the island and our -American, who spent a whole night in the crown of a cocoanut tree, lost -everything. Only five thousand cocoanut trees were left on the whole -island. A man-of-war came from Tahiti three days later and ministered to -the urgent needs of the survivors. - -The inhabitants of this little island suffer frequently from malaria and -grippe. The latter disease returns regularly almost every year. Of the -remaining diseases, diarrhea and dysentery are the most common. -Tuberculosis is prevalent and claims many victims. This island has now a -population of one hundred and fifty, and during his residence he has -never seen a physician, although the inhabitants were frequently in need -of medical services. He was obliged to render his wife assistance at the -birth of all of his children, and strangely, each time without any -mishap, either to mother or child. What happened on that island must -have happened on the many other distant islands under similar -circumstances. Here, like elsewhere, in the South Sea Islands, are -medicine-men who attend to tooth-pulling, and, when any cutting is to be -done, a scalpel is made of a piece of glass. In case of sickness they -make use of roots and herbs of their own gathering. - -BUSINESS IN TAHITI - -The Tahitian is not a business man. What little business is transacted -in the island is done by foreigners. The larger stores in Papeete are -owned and managed by French, Germans and Americans. The smaller stores -in the city, and nearly all small shops in the villages, are in the -hands of Chinamen. - -The fertile soil of Tahiti is not made use of to any considerable -extent. The sugar industry has been tried but has been entirely -abandoned, owing to high wages for labor and exorbitant freight rates. -The principal articles of export are copra, cocoanuts, vanilla-beans and -mother-of-pearl shells. Copra (dried meat of cocoanut), brings three -cents a kilo and cocoanuts are sold at a cent apiece. The raising of -vanilla-beans was a paying industry five years ago, when they commanded -a price of seventeen dollars a pound, and were then eagerly sought for -in the market, as they were considered superior in flavor to those of -any other country. The Chinamen have ruined this source of income as -well as the reputation of the product. These shrewd business men control -the local market completely and go from place to place long before -harvest-time, buy the whole crop for the year for cash, and have the -beans picked before they are ripe and mature them artificially. The -result of such dishonest transactions has been that, owing to the poor -quality of the beans thus treated, the price of the article has been -reduced to three or four dollars per pound. - -The vanilla-bean grows best in the shady forests, and requires but -little attention except artificial fertilization of the flowers and -picking of the beans. In the West Indies the numerous insects fertilize -the monogamous flowers; in this island, this has to be done largely by -artificial fecundation. Women and children do this work. With a sharp -little stick, the pollen is taken from the anthers and rubbed over the -stigma of the pistil. A child who is active can fertilize fifteen -hundred flowers a day. It is a great pity that this industry has been -cheapened by the avaricious Chinamen, as it is an industry that requires -very little labor and should be remunerative, as the soil and climate -are peculiarly well adapted for the cultivation of this valuable -aromatic. - -Most of the fruit which grows in Tahiti is too perishable for -transportation and is consequently very cheap. The largest and most -luscious pineapples can be bought for three cents apiece, oranges -one-fourth of a cent. Alligator pears, the finest fruit grown anywhere, -are sold at the market for two and three cents apiece. At the time of my -visit, eggs were sold at forty cents a dozen. Meat, with the exception -of pork, is imported from New Zealand and the United States. Most of the -native families raise hogs, and this animal is found also in a wild -state in the jungles of the forests. - -The wages, for this island, are rather high. An ordinary laborer is paid -seventy-five cents a day, and the women who are willing to work can earn -fifty cents a day. The average Tahitian works only long enough to -procure the necessities of life, and, as these are few, it is difficult -to find men and women for ordinary labor and housework. - -The fact that there is no bank in the whole island shows that the amount -of money which circulates among the people is very small. Some -enterprising American attempted to establish a telephone line encircling -the island, but lack of patronage soon paralyzed the undertaking. The -island is a place for a dreamy, easy existence, and not for business. - -The communication with the outside world is carried on by two regular -steamer lines, one from San Francisco, the other from Auckland, but both -of these lines are supported by liberal government subsidies to make -them remunerative, as the passenger traffic and the exports and imports -of the island would not suffice to make them independent of government -aid. - -OLD TAHITI - - What will not length of time be able to change? - - CLAUDIANUS. - -Tahiti is exceedingly interesting to-day, but how much more so must it -have been to Captain Wallis and his crew, who first set their eyes on -this gem of the Pacific! When the _Dolphin_ came in sight of this -beautiful island that never before had been seen by a white man, we can -readily imagine officers and crew straining their eyes to see first its -rugged outlines, and later the details of the wonderful landscapes. -Under the blue sky and lighted up by the vigorous rays of the tropic -sun, they could see the mountain-peaks clothed in the verdure of a -tropic forest, the little island set like a gem in the ocean, and, as -they beheld these mountains and turned their eyes upward they could also -see - - They were canopied by the blue sky, so cloudless, clear, and purely - beautiful that God alone was to be seen in heaven. - - BYRON. - - - -As they approached nearer and saw the natural wealth of the island and -its happy inhabitants basking in the sunshine, eating what Nature had -provided for them without care or toil on their part, they must have -come to the unavoidable conclusion that they at last had found a land -where - - There was a never-ending spring, and flowers unsown were kissed by the - warm western breeze. Then the unploughed land gave forth corn, and the - ground, year after year, was white with full ears of grain. Rivers of - milk, rivers of nectar ran, and the yellow honey continued to pour - from the ever-green oak. - - OVIDIUS. - -On landing, having overcome the animosity of the natives and ascertained -the boundless resources of the island, they could not escape the -conviction that they in their wanderings over the limitless sea, had at -last found "a heaven on earth" (Milton). - -What wonderful stories those men must have brought to Europe on their -return after the long and hazardous voyage, when they related what they -had seen in Tahiti, then in its primitive native state! Captain Cook -made a longer stay in the island on his first visit and had therefore a -better opportunity to study the island, its resources and its -interesting inhabitants. It is on his descriptions we will rely in -giving an account of some of the traits, customs and habits of the -people as they existed at that time. - -RELIGION OF THE NATIVES - - Every one is, in a small degree, the image of God. - - MANLIUS. - -The most primitive of all races have some conception of a divinity and a -life hereafter, for - - A god has his abode within our breast; when he rouses us, the glow of - inspiration warms us; this holy rapture springs from the seeds of the - divine mind sown in man. - - OVIDIUS. - -Let us listen to Captain Cook concerning the religion of the Tahitians -before they knew the name of God and the story of the Saviour while on -earth: - - The common people have only a very vague idea of the religious - sentiments of the race, but the priests, who are quite numerous, have - established quite an extensive and somewhat complicated system. They - do not worship one God, as possessing preeminence; but believe in a - plurality of divinities, who are all supposed to be very powerful, - and, as different parts of the island, and the other islands in the - neighborhood, have different ones, the inhabitants of such, no doubt, - think that they have chosen the most potent and considerate one. Their - devotion in serving their gods is remarkably conspicuous. Not only the - whattas or offering-places of the morals are commonly loaded with - fruits and animals, but there are few houses lacking a small place of - the same sort. Many of them are so impressed with their obligations to - their divinity that they will not begin a meal without first laying - aside a morsel for their Eatooa (their god). - - Their prayers are also very frequent, which they chant, much after the - manner of songs, in their festive entertainments. They also believe in - an evil spirit, they call Etee, who sometimes does them mischief, and - to whom, as well as to their god, they make offerings. - - But the mischiefs they fear from any superior invisible beings are - confined only to temporal things. They believe the soul to be both - immaterial and immortal. They say that it keeps fluttering about the - lips during the pangs of death, and that then it ascends and mixes - with, or, as they express it, is eaten by the deity. In this state it - remains for some time; after which it departs to a certain place - destined for the reception of the souls of men, where it exists in - eternal night, or, as they sometimes say, in twilight or dawn. They - have no idea of any permanent punishment after death for crimes that - they have committed on earth. They believe in the recognition of - relatives and friends after death and in resuming the same relations - as on earth. If the husband dies first, the soul of his wife is known - to him on its arrival in the land of spirits. They resume their former - acquaintance, in a spacious house, where the souls of the deceased - assemble to recreate themselves with the gods. From here man and wife - retire to their own habitation, where they remain forever. - - The most singular part of their faith consists in claiming that not - only man, but all other animals, trees, fruit and even stones are - endowed with a soul, which at death, or upon being consumed or broken, - ascends to the divinity, with whom they first mix, and afterward pass - into the mansion allotted to each. - -The temples of the Tahitians were the maraes, enclosures of stones, -where the offerings were rendered, and on certain occasions human beings -were sacrificed. The largest marae ever built in Tahiti is located at -Papara and the ruins of it remain to-day. At the time of Captain Cook's -visit there were numerous maraes all over the island, which served as -places of worship, sacrifice and burial. The supreme chief of the whole -island was always housed in a marae and after his death the marae was -appropriated to his family and some of the principal people. Such a -marae differed little from the common ones, except in extent. Its -principal part is a large, oblong pile of stones, lying loosely upon -each other, about twelve or fourteen feet high, contracted towards the -top, with a square area on each side, loosely packed with pebble stones, -under which the bones of the chiefs are buried. At a little distance -from the end nearest the sea is the place where the sacrifices are -offered, which, for a considerable extent, is also loosely paved. There -is here a very large scaffold, or whatta, on which the offerings, and -other vegetables, are laid. But the animals are deposited on a smaller -one, already mentioned, and the human sacrifices are buried under -different parts of the pavement. The marae is the altar of other -nations. The skulls of the human sacrifices, after a few months, are -exhumed and preserved in the marae. - -Captain Cook counted forty-nine such skulls in the marae in which he -witnessed the human sacrifice. - - - -Cannibalism did not exist in Tahiti when the island was discovered, but -human sacrifices were quite frequently offered as a kind of religious -ceremony to appease the anger or displeasure of some offended god. The -victims were tramps and persons of no vocation. They were either clubbed -or stoned to death by persons designated for this purpose by the -priests. On Saturday, August 30, 1777, while Captain Cook was stationed -at Matavai for the purpose of observing the transit of Venus, he -received a message that on the following day a human sacrifice would be -made at Attahura, to Eatooa, to implore the assistance of the deity -against the inhabitants of the island of Moorea, who were then in a -state of war with Tahiti. Towha, a chief and relative of the then -reigning king, had killed a man for the sacrifice. Captain Cook, with -several friends, accompanied King Otoo to witness the ceremony, and -describes the event in detail: - - On our way we landed upon a little island, which lies off Tettaha, - where we found Towha and his retinue. After some little conversation - between the two chiefs, on the subject of the war, Towha addressed - himself to me, asking my assistance. When I excused myself, he seemed - angry; thinking it strange I, who had always declared myself to be the - friend of their island, should not go and fight against its enemies. - Before we parted he gave to Otoo two or three red feathers, tied up in - a tuft; and a lean, half-starved dog was put in a canoe that was to - accompany us. We then embarked again, taking on board a priest who was - to assist at the solemnity. As soon as we landed at Attahura, which - was about two o'clock in the afternoon, Otoo expressed his desire that - the seamen might be ordered to remain in the boat, and that Mr. - Anderson, Mr. Webber and myself might take off our hats as soon as we - should come to the marai, to which we immediately proceeded, attended - by a great many men, and some boys, but not one woman. We found four - priests and their attendants, or assistants, waiting for us. - - The dead body, or sacrifice, was in a small canoe that lay on the - beach and partly in the water of the sea, fronting the marai. Two of - the priests, with some of the attendants, were sitting by the canoe, - the others at the marai. Our company stopped about twenty or thirty - paces from the priests. Here Otoo placed himself; we, and a few others - standing by him, while the bulk of the people remained at a greater - distance. The ceremony now began. One of the priest's attendants - brought a young plantain tree, and laid it down before Otoo. Another - approached with a small tuft of red feathers, twisted on some fibres - of the cocoanut husk, with which he touched one of the King's, feet - and then retired with it to his companions. One of the priests, seated - at the marai, facing those who were upon the beach, now began a long - prayer; and, at certain times, sent down young plantain trees, which - were laid upon the sacrifice. During this prayer, a man, who stood by - the officiating priest, held in his hands two bundles, seemingly of - cloth. One of them, as we afterward found, was the royal Maro; and the - other, if I may be allowed the expression, was the ark of the Eatooa. - As soon as the prayer was ended, the priests at the marai, with their - attendants, went and sat down by those upon the beach, carrying with - them the two bundles. Here they renewed their prayers, during which - the plantain trees were taken, one by one, at different times, from - off the sacrifice, which was partly wrapped up in cocoa-leaves and - small branches. - - It was now taken out of the canoe and laid upon the beach, with the - feet to the sea. The priests placed themselves around it, some sitting - and others standing; and one, or more of them, repeated sentences for - about ten minutes. The dead body was now uncovered, by removing the - leaves and branches, and laid in a parallel direction with the - seashore. One of the priests then, standing at the feet of it, - pronounced a long prayer, in which he was, at times, joined by the - others, each holding in his hand a tuft of red feathers. In the course - of this prayer, some hair was pulled off the head of the sacrifice, - and the left eye taken out; both of which were presented to Otoo, and - wrapped up in a green leaf. He did not, however, touch it; but gave, - to the man who presented it, the tuft of feathers, which he had - received from Towha. This, with the hair and the eye, was carried back - to the priests. Soon after, Otoo sent to them another piece of - feathers, which he had given me in the morning to keep in my pocket. - During some part of this last ceremony, a kingfisher making a noise in - the trees, Otoo turned to me saying, "That is the Eatooa;" and seemed - to look upon it to be a good omen. - - The body was then carried a little way, with its head toward the - marai, and laid under a tree, near which were fixed three broad, thin - pieces of wood, differently but rudely carved. The bundles of cloth - were laid on a part of the marai, and the tufts of red feathers were - placed at the feet of the sacrifice, round which the priests took - their stations, and we were now allowed to go as near as we pleased. - He seemed to be the chief priest who sat at a small distance, and - spoke for a quarter of an hour, but with different tones and gestures; - so that he seemed often to expostulate with the dead person, to whom - he constantly addressed himself, and sometimes asked several - questions, seemingly with respect to the propriety of his having been - killed. At other times, he made several demands, as if the deceased - either now had power himself, or interest with the divinity, to engage - him to comply with such requests. Among the petitions we understood, - he asked him to deliver Eimeo (Moorea), Maheine its chief, the hogs, - women and other things of the island into their hands; which was, - indeed, the express intention of the sacrifice. He then chanted a - prayer, which lasted nearly half an hour, in whining, melancholy tone, - accompanied by two other priests, and in which Potatou and some others - joined. In the course of this prayer, some more hair was plucked by a - priest from the head of the corpse, and put upon one of the bundles. - After this, the chief priest prayed alone, holding in his hand the - feathers which came from Towha. When he had finished, he gave them to - another, who prayed in like manner. Then all the tufts of the feathers - were laid upon the bundles of cloth, which closed the ceremony at this - place. - - The corpse was then carried up to the most conspicuous part of the - marai, with the feathers, the two bundles of cloth, and the drums, the - last of which beat slowly. The feathers and bundles were laid against - the pile of stones, and the corpse at the foot of them. The priests - having again seated themselves round it, renewed their prayers, while - some of their attendants dug a hole about two feet deep, into which - they threw the unhappy victim, and covered it over with earth and - stones. While they were putting him into the grave, a boy squeaked - aloud and Omai (Captain Cook's interpreter) said that it was the - Eatooa. - - The human sacrifice was followed by the offering of dogs and pigs. The - many prayers and complicated ceremonies attending human sacrifice - stamp it as a religious rite which has undoubtedly been practiced for - centuries. In this particular instance it meant a message through the - instrumentality of the unfortunate victim to implore Eatooa for - assistance in the impending war with Moorea. - -It is very interesting indeed to have an account of this ceremony -preserved by an eyewitness like Captain Cook, and no apology is -necessary here to have it reappear in all its minute details. Another -religious ceremony of lesser import is circumcision. How this custom was -introduced into Tahiti no one knows. It is more than probable that, in -some way it came from the distant Orient in a modified form. It differs -from the Jewish rite in that it is not performed on infants, but on boys -approaching the age of puberty. Captain Cook gives the following -description of the operation as he observed it: - - When there are five or six lads pretty well grown up in a neighborhood - the father of one of them goes to a Tahoua, or man of knowledge, and - lets him know. He goes with the lads to the top of the hills, attended - by a servant; and, seating one of them properly, introduces a piece of - wood underneath the foreskin, and desires him to look aside at - something he pretends is coming. Having thus engaged the young man's - attention to another object, he cuts through the skin upon the wood, - with a shark's tooth, generally at one stroke. He then separates, or - rather turns back, the divided parts; and, having put on a bandage, - proceeds to perform the same operation on the other lads. At the end - of five days they bathe, and the bandages being taken off, the matter - is cleaned away. At the end of five days more they bathe again, and - are well; but a thickness of the prepuce, where it was cut, remaining, - they go again to the mountains with the Tahoua and servant; and a fire - being prepared, and some stones heated, the Tahoua puts the prepuce - between two of them, and squeezes it gently, which removes the - thickness. They then return home, having their heads and other parts - of their bodies, adorned with odoriferous flowers, and the Tahoua is - rewarded for his services by their fathers, in proportion to their - several abilities, with presents of hogs and cloth; and if they be - poor, their relations are liberal on the occasion. - -How the wise man managed to keep the boys together during two such -painful ordeals is not easy to understand, but as they remained at their -posts until all had passed through it speaks volumes for their good -behavior and manly courage. That the Tahitians possessed many admirable -virtues during their paganism proves only too clearly that - - Virtue is shut out from no one; she is open to all, accepts all, - invites all, gentlemen, freedmen, slaves, kings and exiles; she - selects neither house nor fortune; she is satisfied with a human - without adjuncts. - - SENECA. - - - -These virtues, the prayers, the sacrifices, the belief in a supreme -being and eternity, show that the Tahitians were imbued with a natural -religion, for - - The existence of God is so many ways manifest and the obedience we owe - Him so congruous to the light of reason, that a great part of mankind - give testimony to the law of nature. - - LOCKE. - -The natives had no literature nor any communication with the outside -world farther than the neighboring island groups. Their only book was -nature, and this was read and studied with eagerness and intelligence. -Their ancient history consisted of legendary lore handed down from -generation to generation. But - - There are books extant which they must needs allow of as proper - evidence; even the mighty volumes of visible nature, and the - everlasting tables of right reason. - - BENTLEY. - -From century to century, from generation to generation, these people, -without leaving a permanent record of what had happened and without -being conscious of art or science, lived and died in a state of -happiness and contentment. - - For he had no catechism but the creation, needed no study but - recollection, and read no book but the volume of the world. - - SOUTH. - -That ignorance and vice should have existed among this primitive people, -so completely isolated from the progressive part of the world, is not -strange, as they lived in a land of plenty, fed and clothed, as it were, -by the almost unaided resources of nature, conditions largely -responsible for their inborn laziness. Ignorance and superstition go -hand in hand. The Tahitians have always been extremely superstitious and -both civilization and Christianization have been powerless in -eradicating this national evil. We must, however, judge them not too -severely in this matter, as superstition is by no means uncommon amongst -us at the present day. Our best poets are not exempt from it. - - I think it is the weakness of mine eyes - - That shapes this wondrous apparition: - - It comes upon me! - - SHAKESPEARE. - - Millions of spiritual creatures walk the earth unseen, both when we - wake and when we sleep. - - MILTON. - - A person terrified with the imagination of spectres is more reasonable - than one who thinks the appearance of spirits fabulous and groundless. - - ADDISON. - -With the progress and spread of education of the masses, superstition -will gradually be starved out here as elsewhere. The greatest vice of -the Tahitians is licentiousness, which remains as when Captain Cook -visited the island. In speaking of the looseness of the marital -relations, he says: - - And so agreeable is this licentious plan of life to their disposition, - that the most beautiful of both sexes thus commonly spend their - youthful days, habituated to the practice of enormities which would - disgrace the most savage tribes, but are peculiarly shocking amongst a - people whose general character in other respects has evident traces of - the prevalence of humane and tender feelings. - -The Tahitians have reason to claim that - - The vices collected through so many ages for a long time past flow in - upon us. - - SENECA. - -Intemperance among the natives has never had a firm foothold in the -island and tobacco is used with moderation. Gambling, such a common vice -among the peoples of the Orient, has never been cultivated and practiced -to any extent in Tahiti. These ocean-bound people, living in happy and -contented isolation, had no desire for national or personal wealth or -fame, neither had they any inclination or desire for art or the -sciences. They believed in the mottoes: - - If you are but content, you have enough to live upon with comfort. - - PLAUTUS. - -and - - Ambition breaks the ties of blood, and forgets the obligations of - gratitude. - - SIR WALTER SCOTT. - -They lived a restful, unselfish life, happy in the companionship of -their families, relatives and friends, with no morbid desires to -distract them from the full enjoyment of what Nature showered upon them -with bountiful never-failing liberality. - - Their customs are by Nature wrought; But we, by art, unteach what - Nature taught. - - DRYDEN. - -THE INSIGNIA OF TAHITIAN ROYALTY - -Tahitian royalty was hereditary, and women were not excluded. There were -chiefs and chiefesses governing tribes, and head chiefs and head -chiefesses ruling over several tribes or the whole island. There were no -crowns and no sceptres. The insignia of royalty was a belt ornamented -with feathers. The red feathers were what the diamonds and other -precious stones are in ancient and modern crowns. This belt was called -Maro. Captain Cook gives the following description of a maro: - - It is a girdle, about five yards long, and fifteen inches broad; and, - from its name, seems to be put on in the same manner as is the common - maro, or piece of cloth used by these people to wrap round the waist. - It was ornamented with red and yellow feathers; but mostly with the - latter, taken from a dove found upon the island. The one end was - bordered with eight pieces, each about the size and shape of a - horseshoe, having their edges fringed with black feathers. The other - end was forked, and the points were of different lengths. The feathers - were in square compartments, ranged in two rows, and otherwise so - disposed to produce a pleasing effect. They had been first pasted or - fixed upon some of their own cloth, and then sewed to the upper end of - the pendant which Captain Wallis had displayed, and left flying - ashore, the first time that he landed at Matavai. - -This insignia of office was highly respected by the natives and was -handed down from one generation of rulers to the other, carrying with it -the sovereignty of the office. One of the civil wars in the island was -caused by a failure on the part of one of the chief esses (Purea) to -deliver the maro to her legitimate successor. - -DISEASES OF TAHITI - -Before the Europeans came to Tahiti, the beautiful little island was a -sanatorium. The natives were temperate, frugal in their habits, -subsisting almost exclusively on fish, fruit and vegetables, and lived -practically an outdoor life even in their bamboo huts. They were -unencumbered by useless clothing and spent, as they do now, much of -their time in sea and fresh-water bathing. They were almost exempt from -acute destructive diseases. They were free from the most fatal of acute -contagious and infectious diseases, such as smallpox, measles, -scarlatina, cholera, etc. Tuberculosis and venereal diseases were -unknown before the white man invaded the island. The immediate effect of -the European civilization on the health and lives of the natives was -frightful. On this subject I will let Ariitaimai speak: - - When England and France began to show us the advantages of their - civilization, we were, as races then went, a great people. Hawaii, - Tahiti, the Marquesas, Tonga, Samoa and New Zealand made a respectable - figure on the earth's surface, and contained a population of no small - size, better fitted than any other possible community for the - condition in which they lived. Tahiti, being the first to come in - close contact with the foreigners, was first to suffer. The people, - who numbered, according to Cook, two hundred thousand in 1767, - numbered less than twenty thousand in 1797, according to the - missionaries, and only about five thousand in 1803. This frightful - mortality has been often doubted, because Europeans have naturally - shrunk from admit ting the horrors of their own work, but no one - doubts it who belongs to the native race. Tahiti did not stand alone - in misery; what happened there happened everywhere, not only in the - great groups of high islands, like Hawaii with three or four hundred - thousand people, but in little coral atolls which could only support a - few score. - - - -These are strong words, but they are nevertheless only too true. -Civilization brings to savage races curses as well as blessings. The -primitive people are more receptive of new vices than new virtues. - -In 1880 the number of inhabitants had again increased to thirteen -thousand five hundred, but since that time it has been reduced to eleven -thousand, as shown by the last census. When Captain Cook visited the -island he emphasized particularly the absence of acute diseases. In -speaking of chronic diseases he remarks: - - They only reckon five or six which might be called chronic, or - national disorders, amongst which are the dropsy and the _fefai_, or - indolent swellings before mentioned as frequent at Tongataboo. - -The fearful, swift depopulation of the island was caused by the -introduction of new acute infectious and contagious diseases, such as -smallpox, measles, whooping-cough, la grippe, etc., which among these -people was attended by a frightful mortality. It was only three years -ago that an epidemic of measles, a trifling disease with us, claimed -several hundred lives, including many adults, and extended to nearly all -of the islands of the entire group. The disease that is now threatening -the extinction of the race in a short time is pulmonary tuberculosis. -The natives are extremely susceptible to this disease, and the small -native houses, crowded with large families, are the breeding stations -for infection. - -The French government has at last recognized the need of taking active -measures to improve the sanitary conditions of their colony and protect -the natives against the spread of infectious diseases. A corps of three -physicians, sent by the French government on this mission, made the -voyage from San Francisco to the island on the steamer _Mariposa_ with me. -The names of these physicians are: Dr. Grosfillez, surgeon-major of the -first class of the colonial troops; Dr. H. Rowan, a graduate of the -Pasteur Institute, and Dr. F. Cassiau, of the clinic of Marseilles. The -military surgeon receives an annual salary of fifteen hundred dollars, -the two civil doctors twelve hundred dollars each. They are under -contract for five years. They have been given judicial power to enforce -all sanitary regulations they see fit to institute. They will be -stationed at different points and will establish a requisite number of -lazarettos, something which will fill a long-felt and pressing need. - - - -PRESENT PREVAILING DISEASES - -The average temperature of the inhabited part of the island, which can -not be less than 78 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, has a relaxing influence -on the natives and much more so on the small contingent of whites. The -Europeans and Americans find it necessary every three to five years to -seek for a few months a cooler climate to restore their energies and -vigor. The government officials and officers of the small garrison are -not obliged to serve for more than the same time consecutively, when -they are relieved from their posts and commands. It is this relaxation -which, to a certain extent, at least, is responsible for the great -mortality of comparatively mild, acute, infectious diseases, and the -severity of pulmonary tuberculosis among the natives. Tuberculosis of -the lymphatic glands, skin, bones and joints appears to be extremely -rare. The moisture-laden atmosphere and the suddenness with which the -cool land and ocean breezes set in after the heat of the day, are -conducive to the development of rheumatic affections, which are -prevalent in all parts of the island, more especially during the rainy -season in midwinter. The same can be said of bronchial affections and -pneumonia. The free and unrestrained intercourse among natives accounts -for the rapid spread of tuberculosis and acute infectious diseases among -the entire population and from island to island. - -The sanitary commission now engaged, in efforts to reduce the mortality -of the natives will establish rules and regulations which will have for -their object the prevention of dissemination of acute as well as chronic -infectious diseases, and will undoubtedly accomplish much toward the -preservation of the race; but these officers will meet with stubborn -opposition on the part of the natives when attempts are made, in their -interest, to curtail their personal liberties. The ties of relationship -and friendship among the natives are very strong, and become most -apparent in case of misfortunes and sickness. Smallpox breaks out almost -every year, and claims its share of victims. Vaccination is supposed to -be compulsory, but the natives are inclined to escape it. Vaccination is -done gratuitously at the Military Hospital for all natives who can be -induced to submit to it. Under present conditions it is almost -impossible to reach the inhabitants of the small atoll islands. - -Like in all tropic countries, tetanus is of quite frequent occurrence. -The small native pony is found everywhere, and as the rural natives are -all barefooted and spend much of their time in the jungles in -impregnating the flower of the vanilla-bean and gathering fruits, wounds -prone to infection with the tetanus bacillus are of frequent occurrence. - -Malarial diseases are comparatively rare, although the -plasmodium-carrying mosquitoes are numerous and aggressive, and children -in the country districts are nude, and the men limit their clothing to -the wearing of a loin-cloth. No case of typhoid fever has been known to -have originated in the island. For this there exists a satisfactory -explanation. The exemption in this island from this disease, so widely -distributed over the entire part of the inhabited globe, is due entirely -to an abundant supply of the purest drinking water supplied by the -numerous mountain streams. Nearly all the inhabitants live on the coast, -near the outlet of a brook or stream, where, consequently, there is no -danger whatever of water-contamination. I found three cases of typhoid -fever in the Military Hospital, members of one family, who had been -brought there from one of the neighboring atoll islands. - -Varicose veins, varicocele and hydrocele are very common. The absence of -anything like a large ulcer in many cases of large and numerous varicose -veins of the leg, I attributed to the toughness of the skin of the bare -legs. Venereal diseases are widespread throughout the entire island, and -more especially in Papeete and the near-by larger villages. For over a -hundred years the natives have suffered from this scourge brought there -by the European sailors and adventurers. Syphilis has been transmitted -from generation to generation until it has contaminated the major part -of the population, for - - The gods visit the sins of the fathers upon the children. - - EURIPIDES. - -and - - The wickedness of a few brings calamity on all. - - PUBLIUS SYRUS. - -The length of time the disease has existed among the natives has -established a certain degree of tolerance or immunity, as it pursues a -comparatively mild course, as I found very few instances of the ravages -of the remote results of syphilis. I saw only one case of saddle nose, -caused by tertiary syphilis. - -Leprosy is not as prevalent as in the Hawaiian Islands, but isolated -cases are found in nearly all the islands belonging to this group, being -more prevalent in some than in others. Segregation has never been -attempted. The lepers mix freely with the members of their families and -neighbors, and are not shunned by any one. I was informed that many of -the lepers, much disfigured by the disease, seek an island where many of -these unfortunates have founded a colony for the purpose of escaping -from public gaze. There, away from relatives and friends, they spend -their short span of life and await patiently the final relief which only -death can bring. - - O Death, the Healer, scorn thou not, I pray. To come to me; of - cureless ills thou art The one physician. Pain lays not its touch upon - a corpse. - - ÆSCHYLUS. - -Elephantiasis in its worst forms has taken a firm hold on the natives, -especially the inhabitants of the near-by island of Moorea. There this -disease can be studied in all its stages, from a slight enlargement of -one of the extremities to colossal swellings, which, when the upper and -lower extremities are affected at the same time, make it necessary for -the patient to crawl on his hands and feet in dragging himself from -place to place. Regarding elephantiasis as it exists in Tahiti and the -other islands of the French colony, I will make use of a few extracts -taken from a valuable paper on this subject by Dr. Lemoine, recently in -charge of the Military Hospital, and published in one of the government -reports. According to this author, who has seen much of this disease in -Tahiti and surrounding islands, it may affect most regions of the body, -and not infrequently makes its appearance as an acute affection with all -the symptoms characteristic of lymphangitis, including quite a violent -continued remittent form of fever, which lasts two or three months. The -acute form is, almost without exception, complicated by synovitis of the -joints of the affected limb, which he regards as almost pathognomonic of -the disease, differentiating it from ordinary forms of lymphangitis. -After the subsidence of the acute symptoms and in the chronic form the -disease is essentially a chronic lymphangitits, accompanied by marked -enlargement of the veins. According to his observations the regions most -frequently involved are the lower extremities, external genitals, and -lastly, the hands and forearms. Three years ago I was given an -opportunity to see at the hospital and poorhouse at Antigua, West -Indies, ninety cases of elephantiasis, and not in a single one of them -did the disease affect the upper extremity, while in the French colony -of the South Seas this is not infrequently the case. I do not know that -a satisfactory explanation has ever been given why the disease should -behave so differently in fixing its location in the two groups of -islands. Lemoine, as well as other writers on elephantiasis, has seen -the disease become stationary by the removal of the patient to a colder -climate. Europeans become susceptible to elephantiatic infection after a -prolonged residence in tropical countries where the disease prevails. - -Lemoine does not agree with Manson, who believes that elephantiasis is -caused by the _Filaria sanguinis_, and is suspicious that the essential -parasitic cause is a yet undiscovered microbe. He made blood -examinations night and day of patients under his care, and was unable to -constantly detect the filariæ in their embryonic state in the peripheral -blood, and consequently claims that the presence of filaria in the -organism is not an infallible diagnostic indication, and that their -abundance is not proportionate to the intensity of the disease. The fact -that the elephantiatics improve in colder climates he regards as another -proof that filariasis is not the essential cause of the disease. - - - -In a number of cases extirpation of the infiltrated enlarged lymphatic -glands was followed by decided improvement, and in the case of a -Tahitian the improvement remained at the end of three years. He has also -operated on a number of cases by partial excision of the mass, first on -one side of the limb, then on the other, with decided benefit to the -patient in most of them. In some cases deep incisions through the entire -thickness of the indurated mass afforded relief and resulted in -diminution of the size of the swelling. He relates the details of the -case of a native, fifty years old, the subject of elephantiasis of the -lower limbs, that he operated on in two stages several weeks apart, -removing first a large section from the anterior and later from the -posterior part of the swelling, and as shown by the accompanying -illustrations in the report depicting the condition of the limbs before -and after operation, with an excellent result. However, in some of the -cases the benefit thus derived did not last for any considerable length -of time. - -In making the excision, the superfluous skin is excised with the -underlying indurated tissues, and the skin margins reflected for some -distance in order to create sufficient room for a more liberal removal -of the deep tissues. In one case, that of a woman thirty-eight years of -age, the patient died two weeks after the second operation. Death was -attributed to loss of blood and the debilitated condition of the patient -when she entered the hospital. In another case, a Tahitian, thirty-five -years old, affected with elephantiasis of all limbs and the external -genitals, he operated successfully on one of the arms, the seat of an -enormous swelling below the elbow. The excised mass weighed fifteen -kilograms. Owing to the large size of the swelling, the operation proved -one of great difficulty, and on account of the tension incident to the -approximation of the margins of the flaps the sutures cut through and -the wound ultimately healed by granulation. At the second operation -nearly the entire mass was removed, with the result that the wound -finally healed after a prolonged suppuration and the patient was -relieved of the incumbrance caused by the great weight of the swelling. -The relief afforded induced the patient to request additional operations -for the removal of the swellings involving other regions of the body, -but as the surgeon soon after left the island his desire could not be -gratified. - -The climate of Tahiti is not congenial for pulmonary and rheumatic -affections, as the atmosphere is too moist. It is admirably adapted for -patients the subjects of nervous affections in all their protean forms. -The quietude, balmy air and pleasing surroundings are the best -therapeutic agents to secure mental rest and refreshing sleep. It is in -the treatment of such affections that a trip to Tahiti can not be too -strongly recommended. - -THE KAHUNA OR NATIVE DOCTOR - -For centuries the practice of the healing art was largely in the hands -of priests. They ministered to the body as well as the soul. Their -practice was purely empirical and the surgery, even of the most skilled, -rude and often brutal. The human mind is very much inclined to look upon -disease and the methods used to effect a cure as something mysterious. -Even at this late day many people who are well educated and who in -everything else seem to possess a liberal amount of good common sense, -have very strange ideas in regard to disease and the means employed in -treatment. Promises to cure and a liberal expenditure of printers' ink -render them an easy prey to mysterious methods. All races and all tribes -have always had among them men and women in whom they confided in case -of accident or disease. Very often priesthood and medicine were combined -in the same person. Among the ancient Tahitians the chief was at the -same time priest and medical adviser. The American Indians had their -medicine-men, the Tahitians and other South Sea Islanders their Kahuna. -It is very interesting to know something of the early practice of -medicine and surgery among the Tahitians. Captain Cook gives them great -credit from what he saw of their surgery: - - They perform cures in surgery, which our extensive knowledge in that - branch has not, as yet, enabled us to imitate. In simple fractures, - they bind them up with splints, but if part of the substance of the - bone be lost, they insert a piece of wood, between the fractured ends, - made hollow like the deficient part. In five or six days, the rapooa, - or surgeon, inspects the wound, and finds the wood partly covered with - the growing flesh. In as many more days, it is generally entirely - covered; after which, when the patient has acquired some strength, he - bathes in the water, and recovers. - -In speaking of medicine he says: - - Their physical knowledge seems more confined; and that, probably, - because their diseases are fewer than their accidents. The priests, - however, administer the juices of herbs in some cases; and women who - are troubled with after-pains, or other disorders after child-bearing, - use a remedy which one would think needless in a hot country. They - first heat stones, as when they bake their food; then they lay a thick - cloth over them, upon which is put a quantity of a small plant of the - mustard kind; and these are covered with another cloth. Upon this they - seat themselves, and sweat plentifully, to obtain a cure. They have no - emetic medicine. - -In referring to the few indigenous diseases he adds: - - But this was before the arrival of the Europeans; for we have added to - this short category a disease which abundantly supplies the place of - all the others; and is now almost universal [syphilis]. For this they - seem to have no effectual remedy. The priests, indeed, sometimes give - them a medley of simples; but they own that it never cures them, and - yet, they allow that, in a few cases, nature, without the assistance - of a physician, exterminates the poison of this fatal disease, and - perfect recovery is produced. They say that a man affected with it - will often communicate it to others in the same house, by feeding out - of the same utensils, or handling them, and that, in this case, they - frequently die, while he recovers; though we see no reason why this - should happen. - -On his fourth voyage to the Society Islands Captain Cook learned to what -fearful extent syphilis had spread throughout all of the islands of the -group and became aware what ravages it had caused among the natives. On -visiting new islands he did all in his power to protect the natives -against this scourge by excluding all women visitors from the ship and -by strictly enjoining persons known to be infected from landing. On the -probable effects of these new regulations he comments: - - Whether these regulations, dictated by humanity, had the desired - effect, or no, time only can discover. I had been equally attentive to - the same object when I first visited the Friendly Islands; yet I - afterward found, with real concern, that I had not succeeded, and I am - afraid that this will always be the case, in such voyages as ours, - whenever it is necessary to have a number of people on shore. - - - -Massage as a remedial agent in the treatment of disease originated in -the Orient, and the Tahitians were familiar with it and frequently made -use of it. On this subject Captain Cook can speak from personal -experience. During his stay in Tahiti in 1777 he suffered evidently from -a severe attack of sciatica, the pain extending from the hip to the -toes. King Otoo's mother, his three sisters and eight more women came on -his ship one evening for the purpose of giving him treatment and -remained all night to fulfill their well-meant mission. Here is the -account of the treatment to which he was subjected by the women: - - I accepted the kindly offer, had a bed spread for them upon the cabin - floor, and submitted myself to their directions. I was desired to lay - myself down amongst them. Then, as many of them as could get around - me, began to squeeze me with both hands, from head to foot, but more - particularly on the parts where the pain was lodged, till they made my - bones crack, and my flesh became a perfect mummy. In short, after - undergoing this discipline about a quarter of an hour, I was glad to - get away from them. However, the operation gave me immediate relief, - which encouraged me to submit to another rubbing down before I went to - bed; and it was so efficient that I found myself pretty easy all the - night after. My female physicians repeated their prescription the next - morning, before they went ashore, and again in the evening, when they - returned on board; after which, I found the pains entirely removed, - and the cure being perfected, they took leave of me the following - morning. This they call _romee_, an operation which, in my opinion, far - exceeds the flesh-brush, or anything of the kind that we make use of - externally. It is universally practised amongst the islanders, being - sometimes performed by men, but more generally by women. - -PHYSICIANS IN TAHITI - -Tahiti is not an Eldorado for doctors. The entire island has only eleven -thousand inhabitants and the great majority of them are too poor to pay -for medical services. The only place in Tahiti where a doctor can be -found is in Papeete. At the time I visited the island there was only one -physician in private practice in the capital city, Dr. Chassaniol, a -retired naval surgeon, the only private practitioner in the whole group -of islands. The bulk of medical practice is in the hands of the -government physician, always a military man who has at the same time -charge of the Military Hospital and takes care of the sick poor, and -supervises all matters pertaining to sanitation. The only other -physicians in the island are the naval surgeons on board a small -man-of-war almost constantly anchored in the harbor of Papeete. The -government physician is privileged to practice outside of the hospital, -and from this source he receives the bulk of his income. As the resident -physician and the government physician are the only qualified physicians -in the whole archipelago, it requires no stretch of the imagination to -realize that until the present time the French government has not made -adequate provisions for their subjects who require the services of a -physician. - - - -The Tahitians have not lost their faith in their Kahunas or native -doctors, who without any medical knowledge, practice their art. These -men, with a local reputation as healers of disease, are to be found in -nearly every village. They are well thought of and are influential -members of society in their respective communities. Like the -medicine-men of our Indians, they make use of roots, bark and herbs as -remedial agents, and the natives, like many of our own people, have more -faith in this mysterious kind of medication than in modern, -concentrated, palatable drugs prescribed by the most eminent physician. -To the credit of these native medicine-men, it must be said that they -give to all afflicted who apply for treatment not only their services, -but also the medicines without any expectation of a financial reward or -even the gratitude of their clients. - -HÔPITAL MILITAIRE - -The military hospital at Papeete is the only one in the French colonial -possession of the Society Islands, numbering one hundred and sixty-eight -islands and containing thirty thousand inhabitants, of whom eleven -thousand live in Tahiti. As some of these islands are more than one -hundred miles apart, it is somewhat strange that the French government -has not taken earlier action in establishing small cottage hospitals in -a number of the larger islands, as in case of severe injuries or sudden -illness the natives of the distant islands are not within reach of -timely medical aid and the transportation of a sick or injured person to -Papeete from the far-off islands or villages by small schooners or -canoes is necessarily slow and in many instances dangerous. The Sanitary -Commission now stationed in the islands will, it is to be hoped, act -promptly in remedying this serious defect in the care of the sick -natives. - - - -The Military Hospital at Papeete is an old structure of brick and -cement, situated near the western limits of the city in a large square -yard inclosed by a high stone wall, surmounted by a crest of fragments -of glass, which imparts to the inclosure a prison-like appearance, the -austerity of which, however, is much relieved by beautiful tropical -trees, shrubbery and flowers in front of the entrance and in the -courtyard. The hospital proper comprises seven buildings, only one of -which is two stories high. The hospital has accommodations for forty -beds. The officers' rooms contain two beds each; the remaining space is -divided into small wards for privates and civilians. In one ward, the -windows of which are strongly barred, are kept the military prisoners, -and another small ward is devoted to obstetrical cases. The rooms and -wards are well ventilated and clean, the beds comfortable; the hospital -furniture otherwise is scanty and antique. The drug-room is large, -richly supplied with capacious jars, mortars of all sizes, herbs, roots -and a complete outfit for making infusions, decoctions and tinctures, -which reminds one very vividly of an apothecary shop of half a century -ago. This department is in charge of a pharmacist who, besides mixing -drugs, does some chemical and bacteriological work in a small and -imperfectly equipped laboratory. The operating-room is an open -passageway between two adjoining wards, and all it contained suggestive -of its use were an operating table of prodigious size and decidedly -primitive construction, and, suspended from the wall, a tin irrigator, -to which was attached a long piece of rubber tubing of doubtful age. The -hospital is well supplied with water, and contains a bathroom, a -shower-bath and modern closets. The hospital is in charge of the -government physician, who is always a medical officer of the colonial -troops, detailed for this special service, usually for a period of three -years. From the official reports I gleaned that on an average this -institution takes care of about three hundred and fifty patients a year. -At the time of my visit the number of patients did not exceed fifteen, -among them one in the prison ward. All of the patients were the subjects -of trifling affections, with the exception of three cases of typhoid -fever sent to the hospital from one of the atoll islands. The patients -are being cared for by three Catholic sisters and orderlies as they are -needed. The poor are admitted gratuitously; private patients pay from -six to fifteen francs a day. The hospital is beautifully located on the -principal street of the city and faces the charming little harbor. A -small private hospital for the foreign residents and tourists is needed -here and under proper management would prove a remunerative investment. - -THE ISLAND OF PLENTY - - O Christ! it is a goodly sight to see - - What heaven hath done for this delicious land. - - BYRON. - -The wealth of Tahiti is on its surface. Its mountains are not pregnant -with precious metals nor has nature stored up in their interior material -for fuel and illumination, as none of these are needful to make the -people content and happy. The Tahitian has no desire to accumulate -wealth; the warm rays of the sun reduce the use of fuel to a minimum, -and the millions of glittering stars and the soft silvery light of the -moon in the clear blue sky create a bewitching light at night, which, -more than half of the time, would make artificial illumination a -mockery. Then, too, Tahiti is the land of gentle sleep and pleasant -dreams, where people do not turn night into day, but rise with the sun -and retire soon after he disappears in the west behind the vast expanse -of the ocean. God created Tahiti for an ideal island home and not as a -place for get-rich-quick methods, speculation and bitter competition for -business, for - - Where wealth and freedom reign, contentment fails, - - And _honor lacks_ where commerce long prevails. - - GOLDSMITH. - -Tahiti's fabulous wealth consists in its inexhaustible soil and the -perennial warm, stimulating breath of the tropic sun. It is the island -of never-fading verdure and vigorous and never-ceasing vegetation. The -fertile soil, the abundant rainfall throughout the year, the warm -sunshine and the equable climate are most conducive to plant-life and -here these conditions are so harmonious that there can be no failure of -crops in the Lord's plantation. There never has been a famine in Tahiti, -and there never will be, provided the government protects the -magnificent mountain forests—nature's system of irrigation. Tahiti's -food-supply is select and never-failing, and is furnished man with the -least possible exertion on his part. The bounteous provisions nature has -made here for the abode of man are a marvel to the visitor and after he -has once seen them and has become familiar with them he can not escape -the conclusion that he is in - - A land flowing with milk and honey. - - JEREMIAH xxxii:22. - -The food products and fruits grown in the forests without the toil of -man are admirably adapted for the climatic conditions, being laxative -and cooling, and undoubtedly account for the excellent health of the -natives before the invasion of the island by the Europeans. The island -was destined for the natives, and the natives were suited to the island. - - Man's rich with little, were his judgment true; - - Nature is frugal, and her wants are few; - - These few wants answer'd, bring sincere delights; - - But fools create themselves new appetites. - - YOUNG. - -Content with what the sea and forest provided for them, these children -of Nature lived a happy life, free from care, free from morbid desires -for wealth or fame. - - O blissful poverty! - - Nature, too partial, to thy lot assigns - - Health, freedom, innocence, and downy peace, — - - Her real goods, — and only mocks the great - - With empty pageantries. - - FENTON. - - No sullen discontent nor anxious care. - - E'en though brought thither, could inhabit there. - - DRYDEN. - -The Tahitian people, before they tasted the questionable advantages of -European civilization, had much in common and lived happily in the full -enjoyment of Nature's varied and bountiful gifts. Tribal life was family -life, and public affairs were managed to suit the wants of the people, -and if any one in power failed in his duties, the people took the law in -their own hands and corrected the evil, usually without bloodshed. If -the people were not prosperous according to our ideas of life, they were -at least happy, and - - We must distinguish between felicity and prosperity; for prosperity - leads often to ambition, and ambition to disappointment. - - LANDOR. - -TAHITI'S NATURAL BREAD SUPPLY - -The Tahitians have no corn or grain of any kind out of which to make -bread. They found in the forests excellent substitutes for bread, and -more healthful for that climate, in the form of breadfruit, wild -plantain and tubers rich in starch. This is the kind of bread they have -been eating for centuries, and which they prefer to our bread to-day. -When the island was densely populated and the demand on nature's -resources exceeded the supply, the natives had to plant trees, roots and -tubers in vacant spaces in the forest, high up on the mountainsides, -where they grew luxuriantly without any or little care, and by these -trifling efforts on the part of man the food-supply kept pace with the -increase of the population. Trees and plants distributed in this manner -found a permanent home in the new places provided for them, and have -since multiplied, and thus increased greatly the annual yield. Evidences -of dissemination of bread and fruit-yielding trees and plants by the -intervention of man are apparent to-day throughout the island by the -presence of cocoa-palms, breadfruit and other fruit trees, and -plantains, in localities where nature could not plant them, in places -formerly inhabited but abandoned long ago when the population became so -rapidly decimated by the virulent diseases introduced into the island by -the Europeans. To-day the fruit and fruit-supply is so abundant that it -is within easy reach of every family and can be had without money and -without labor. We will consider here a few of the most important -substitutes for bread on which the Tahitians largely subsist: - - - -_Breadfruit_.—Breadfruit is the most important article of food of the -Tahitians. It is the fruit of the breadfruit tree _Arfocarpus incisiva_ -(Linné), a tree of the natural order, _Artocarpaceæ_, a native of the -islands of the Pacific Ocean and of the Indian Archipelago. This fruit -is one of the most important gifts of nature to the inhabitants of the -tropics, serving as the principal part of their food, the inner tough -bark of the tree furnishing a good material for native cloth, while the -trunk of the tree is used as a material for canoes. The exudation -issuing from cuts made into the stem, a resinous substance, is in use -for closing the seams of canoes. Several varieties of breadfruit trees -are to be found in Tahiti, differing in the structure of their leaves -and in the size and time of ripening of the fruit, so that ripe -breadfruit is obtainable more or less abundantly throughout the year. -The foliage of this tree is the greenest of all green, and it is this -deep green which distinguished this tree at once from its neighbors. The -male flowers are in catkins, with a two-leaved perianth and one stamen; -the female flowers are nude. The leaves are large, pinnatifid, -frequently twelve to eighteen inches long, smooth and glossy on their -upper surface. The much branched tree attains a height of twenty to -fifty feet. The fruit is a _sorosis_, a compound or aggregate the size of -a child's head, round or slightly oblong, light green, fleshy and -tuberculated on the surface. The rind is thick, and marked with small -square or lozenge-shaped divisions, each having a small elevation in the -middle. The fruit hangs by a short, thick stalk from the small branches, -singly or in clusters of two or three together. It contains a white, -somewhat fibrous pulp, which when ripe becomes juicy and yellow, but has -then a rotten taste. The fruit is gathered for use before it is ripe, -and the pulp is then white and mealy, of the consistence of fresh bread. -The fruit is prepared in many ways for food, roasted on hot coals, -boiled or baked, or converted by the experienced native cook into -complicated dainty dishes. The common practice in Tahiti is to cut each -fruit into three or four pieces and take out the core; then to place -heated stones in the bottom of a hole dug in the ground; to cover them -with green leaves, and upon this place a layer of the fruit, then -stones, leaves and fruit alternately, till the hole is nearly filled, -when leaves and earth to the depth of several inches are spread over -all. In half an hour the breadfruit is ready; the outsides are, in -general, nicely browned, and the inner part presents a white or -yellowish cellular substance. Breadfruit prepared in this manner and by -other methods of cooking is very palatable, as I can speak from my own -experience, slightly astringent and highly nutritious, a most excellent -dietetic article for the tropics. The tree is very prolific, producing -two and sometimes three crops a year. When once this tree has gained a -firm foothold in a soil it cherishes, and in a climate it enjoys, it -exhibits a tenacity to reproduce itself to an extent often beyond -desirable limits. Of this Captain Cook writes: - - I have inquired very carefully into their manner of cultivating the - breadfruit tree; but was always answered that they never plant it. The - breadfruit tree plants itself, as it springs from the roots of the old - ones, so that the natives are often under the necessity of preventing - its progress to make room for trees of other sorts to afford some - variety in their food. - -The timber is soft and light, of a rich yellow color, and assumes when -exposed to the air the appearance of mahogany. - -_Manioc_.—Manioc is another important article of food in Tahiti and -likewise serves as an excellent substitute for baker's bread. It is the -large, fleshy root of _Manihot utilissima_, a large, half-shrubby plant of -the natural order _Euphorhiaceæ_, a native of tropical America, and much -cultivated in Tahiti as an article of food. In this island the plant has -run wild in some of the ravines formerly inhabited. The plant grows in a -bushy form, with stems usually six to eight feet high, but sometimes -much higher. The stems are brittle, white, and have a very large pith; -the branches are crooked. The leaves are near the ends of the branches, -large, deeply seven-parted, smooth and deep green. The roots are very -large, turnip-like, sometimes weighing thirty pounds, from three to -eight growing in a cluster, usually from twelve to twenty-four inches in -length. They contain an acrid, milky juice in common with other parts of -the plant, so poisonous as to cause death in a few minutes; but as the -toxic effect is owing to the presence of hydrocyanic acid, which is -quickly removed by heat, the juice, inspissated by boiling, forms the -excellent sauce called _casareep_; and fermented with molasses it yields -an intoxicating beverage called _onycou_; whilst the root, grated, dried -on hot metal plates and roughly powdered, becomes an article of food. It -is made into thin plates which are formed into cakes, not by mixing with -water, but by the action of heat, softening and agglutinating the -particles of starch. The powdered root prepared in this manner is an -easily digestible and nutritious article of farinaceous food. The root -is largely made use of in the manufacture of starch and is exported from -Tahiti for this purpose to a considerable extent. The starch made from -this root is also known as Brazilian arrowroot, and from it tapioca is -made. Manioc is propagated by cuttings of the stem, and is of rapid -growth, attaining maturity in six months. - -_Sweet Cassava_.—Sweet cassava is the root of _Manihot Aipi_, a woody plant -indigenous to tropical South America, growing in great abundance in the -dense forest of the mountain valleys of Tahiti. The plant grows to a -height of several feet and has large long leaves growing from the foot -of the stem. The root is reddish and nontoxic; it can therefore be used -as a culinary esculent, without any further preparation than boiling, -while its starch can also be converted into tapioca. The _Aipi_ has tough, -woody fibres, extending along the axis of the tubers, while generally -the roots of the manioc (bitter cassava) are free from this central -woody substance. - -_Arrowroot_ or _Arru Root_.—The commercial arrowroot is prepared from -different starch-yielding roots, but the bulb of the _Maranta marantaceæ_ -produces more starch and of a better quality than any of the others. It -is a native of the West Indies and South America, and is cultivated -quite extensively in Tahiti. Many little patches of this plant may be -seen along the road from Papeete to Papara, where the lowland soil is -well adapted for its cultivation. The starch-producing plant which is -cultivated most extensively in Tahiti and other South Sea Islands is the -_Tacca pinnatifolia_. This perennial plant will even thrive well in the -sandy soil near the shore. The stalk, with terminal spreading pinnatifid -leaves, is from two to three feet high and the root is a tuber about the -size of a small potato. The tacca starch is much valued in medicine, and -is particularly used in the treatment of inflammatory affections of the -gastro-intestinal canal. - -_Taro or Tara_.—Taro is another very important food-product of Tahiti, as -well as other islands of the Pacific, notably the Hawaiian Islands. It -is the root of _Colocasia macrorhiza_, a plant of the natural order -_Araceæ_, of the same genus with _cocoa_. The plant thrives best in low, -marshy places. In all of the South Sea Islands it is very extensively -cultivated for its roots, which constitute in these islands a staple -article of food, excellent substitutes for potatoes and bread. The roots -are very large, from twelve to sixteen inches in length, and as much in -circumference. They are washed in cold water to take away their -acridity, which is such as to cause excoriation of the mouth and palate. -The roots are cooked in the same way as the breadfruit, the rind being -first scraped off. Another very common way of eating taro is in the form -of _poi_. This method of preparing the root was known to the Tahitians -when Captain Cook visited the island. He compared _poi_ with "sour -pudding." It requires some skill to make _poi_. The root, finely grated, -is allowed to ferment over night. It tastes sour and is a refreshing, -delicate and nutritious dish, when served ice-cold. The plant has no -stalk; the petioled heart-shaped leaves spring from the root. The flower -is in the form of a spathe. The boiled leaves can be used as a -substitute for spinach. - -_Wild Plantain_.—The wild plantain furnishes its liberal share of -food-supply for the Tahitians. It is a tree-like, perennial herb (_Musa -paradisiaca_) with immense leaves and large clusters of the fruits. In -its appearance it resembles very closely the banana, but differs from it -as the hands and fingers of the bunches of fruit are turned in the -opposite direction. The fruit is long and somewhat cylindrical, slightly -curved, and, when ripe, soft, fleshy and covered with a thick but tender -yellowish skin. This plant is indigenous to Tahiti and is found in -abundance in the forests. The fruit is cooked or baked and is keenly -relished by the natives. - -All of the articles of food I have referred to above are easily -digested, palatable and nutritious, and for the Tahiti climate more -healthful than bread and potatoes, on which the masses of people living -in colder climates subsist to a large extent. I attribute the -comparative immunity of the South Sea Islanders from attacks of -appendicitis principally to their diet, which is laxative, easily -digested and not liable to cause fermentation in the gastro-intestinal -canal. Appendicitis does occur in these islands, but this disease is -extremely rare as compared with the frequency with which it is met in -Europe, and more especially in the United States. The Americans are the -most injudicious and reckless eaters in the world, which goes far in -explaining the prevalence of gastric and intestinal disorders among our -people. - - - -THE COCOANUT, THE MEAT OF THE TAHITIANS - -It is fortunate that the inhabitants of the tropics have no special -liking for a meat diet, as the free indulgence in meat could not fail in -resulting detrimentally to the health of the inhabitants. The -continuously high temperature begets indolence, and indolence tends to -diminish secretion and excretion, conditions incompatible with a -habitual consumption of meat. Nature has established fixed rules -concerning the manner of living in the tropics. She deprives man of the -appetite for meat and other equally heavy articles of food, and supplies -him with nourishment adapted for the climate. It is under such climatic -conditions that we are made to realize that - - The more we deny ourselves, the more the gods supply our wants. - - HORATIUS. - -and - - We can not use the mind aright when the body is filled with excess of - food. - - CICERO. - -For the preservation of health in the tropics, it is necessary that the -food should be laxative, cooling, easy of digestion and nutritious. Fish -and fruit of various kinds meet these requirements. From observations -and experience, the ignorant natives have made a wise selection of what -is best for them to eat, and know what to avoid. High living brings its -dire results in temperate and cold climates, but any one indulging in it -in the tropics will curtail his life, as it can not fail to be -productive, in a short time, of organic changes of a degenerative type -in important internal organs, which soon begin to menace life and never -fail in diminishing the vital resistance against acute diseases. Luxury -in the tropics in the way of eating and drinking is a dangerous -experiment, and it is well to remember, especially when living in a hot -climate, that - - By degrees man passes to the enjoyments of a vicious life, porticoes, - baths and elegant banquets; this by the ignorant was called a - civilized mode of living, though in reality it was only a form of - luxury. - - TACTICUS. - -No such mistakes are made by the natives of Tahiti as long as they -remain true to their ancient manner of living. With few exceptions, -indeed, they lack the means of imitating the foreigners in living a life -of luxury. Any native who departs too far from the simple, natural life -of his ancestors will pay dearly for the doubtful pleasures of a life of -luxury. The average native, fortunately, has no such inclinations; he is -satisfied to live the simple, natural life his forefathers led, and he -follows the scriptural advice. - - And having food and raiment, let us be therewith content. I. Timothy - vi:8. - - - -Nature has provided for the South Sea Islanders something better than -beef and mutton in the form of meat—fish and cocoanut. Fish are very -abundant all around the coast of Tahiti, and the lagoons, where the -fishing is mostly done, are as quiet as inland lakes. More than two -hundred varieties of fish have been found in these waters. But the real -and best meat for the Tahitians is the cocoanut. The meat of this -wonderful nut contains a large per cent, of oil, which supplies the -system with all the fatty material it requires, and for the tropic -climate this bland, nutritious vegetable oil is far superior to any -animal fats. We will give here the Cocoa-palm the liberal space it so -well deserves: - -THE COCOA-PALM - - Through groves of palm - - Sigh gales of balm, - - Fire-flies on the air are wheeling; - - While through the gloom - - Comes soft perfume, - - The distant beds of flowers revealing. - - SIR WALTER SCOTT. - -The cocoa-palm is the queen of the forests of the South Sea Islands. The -tall, slender, branchless, silvery stem and fronded crown of this -graceful tree distinguish it at once from all its neighbors and indicate -the nobility of its race. The great clusters of golden fruit of giant -size, partially obscured by the drooping leaves and clinging to the end -of the stem, supply the natives with the necessities of life. The -cocoa-palm is the greatest benefactor of the inhabitants of the tropics. - - It is meat, drink and cloth to us. - - RABELAIS. - - Fruits of palm-tree, pleasantest to thirst - - And hunger both. - - MILTON. - -This noble tree grows and fructifies where hard manual labor is -incompatible with the climate, in islands and countries where the -natives have to rely largely on the bounteous resources of nature for -food and protection. The burning shores of India and the islands of the -South Pacific are the natural homes of the cocoa-palm. It has a special -predilection for the sandy beach of Tahiti and the innumerable atoll -islands near to and far from this gem of the South Seas. The giant nuts -often drop directly into the sea and are carried away by waves and -currents from their native soil to strange islands, where they are cast -upon the sandy shore, to sprout and prosper for the benefit of other -native or visiting tribes. By this manner of dissemination, all of these -islands have become encircled by a lofty colonnade of this queen of the -tropics. - - Beautiful isles! beneath the sunset skies - - Tall silver shafted palm-trees rise between - - Tall orange trees that shade - - The living colonnade: - - Alas! how sad, how sickening is the scene - - That were ye at my side would be a paradise. - - MARIA BROOKS. - -The cocoa-palm (_Cocos nucifera_), is a native of the Indian coasts and -the South Sea Islands. It belongs to a genus of palms having pinnate -leaves or fronds, and male and female flowers on the same tree, the -latter at the base of each spadix. It is seldom found at any -considerable distance from the seacoast, except where it has been -introduced by man, and generally thrives best near the very edge of the -sea. In Tahiti isolated cocoa-palms are found on the lofty hilltops, -projecting, with their proud crowns of pale green leaves, far above the -level of the sea of the dense forest and impenetrable jungles. This -transplantation from shore to the sides and summits of the foot-hills -had its beginning before the discovery of the island, when the -overpopulation made it necessary to provide for a more abundant -food-supply. There it has prospered and multiplied since without the -further aid of man, yielding its rich harvests of fruit with unfailing -regularity. The frightful reduction in the number of inhabitants since -the white man set his foot on the island has made this additional -food-supply superfluous, as the palms within easier reach in the -lowlands along the shore more than meet the present demands. - - - -The cocoa-palm is a proud but virtuous tree. Its dense cluster of -delicate roots does not encroach upon the territory of other trees, but -claims only a very modest circular patch of soil from which to abstract -the nourishment for the unselfish, philanthropic tree. The base of the -stem is wide and usually inclined, but a few feet from the ground -becomes straight and cylindrical, with nearly the same diameter from -base to crown. The curve of the stem is caused by the effects of the -prevailing winds on the yielding, slender stem of the youthful tree, but -with increasing growth and strength, it rises column-like into the air, -balancing its fruit-laden massive crown in uncompromising opposition to -the invisible aerial force. It is only in localities exposed to the full -power of strong and persistent trade-winds that the full-grown trees -lean in the same direction in obedience to the unrelenting common -deforming cause. The full-grown tree is, on an average, two feet in -diameter, and from sixty to one hundred feet high, with many rings -marking the places of former leaves, and having, at its summit, a crown -of from sixteen to twenty leaves, which generally droop, and are from -twelve to twenty feet in length. These giant leaves furnish an excellent -material for thatched roofs, and in case of need, a few leaves, properly -placed, will make a comfortable, waterproof tent. The fruit grows in -short racemes, which bear, in favorable situations, from five to fifteen -nuts; and ten or twelve of these racemes, in different stages of -fructification, may be seen at once on a tree, about eighty or one -hundred nuts being its ordinary annual product. For the purpose of -answering the requirements of primitive man, the Creator has ordained -that this tree shall yield a continuous harvest from one end of the year -to the other. Flowers and fruit in all stages of ripening grace the -crown at all times of the year. The young cocoanut contains the -delicious, cooling milk, and the soft pulp, a nourishing article of -food. The mature nut is an excellent substitute for meat, as the kernel -contains more than seventy per cent, of a fixed, bland, nutritious oil. -The tree bears fruit in from seven to eight years from the time of -planting, and its lifetime is from seventy to eighty years. Its greatest -ambition during youth is to reach the clouds and equal its oldest -neighbors in height. Young trees, with a stem less than four inches in -diameter, rival their veteran neighbors in height, devoting their future -growth to the increase in the dimension and strength of the stem, and -their vital vigor to the bearing of its perennial, unfailing yield of -fruit for the benefit of man and beast. The stem, when young, contains a -central part which is sweet and edible, but when old, this is a mass of -hard fibre. The terminal bud (palm cabbage) is esteemed a delicacy when -boiled or stewed or raw in the form of a vegetable salad. The sweet sap -(toddy) of the cocoa-palm, as of some other palms, is an esteemed -beverage in tropic countries, either in its natural state, or after -fermentation, which takes place in a few hours; and, from the fermented -sap (palm wine), a strong alcoholic liquor (_arrack_), is obtained by -distillation. The root of the cocoa-palm possesses narcotic properties. -Every part of this wonderful tree is utilized by the untutored -inhabitants of the tropics. The dried leaves are much used for the -thatch, and for many other purposes, as the making of mats, screens, -baskets, etc., by plaiting the leaflets. The strong midribs of the -leaves supply the natives with oars. The wood of the lower part of the -trunk is very hard, and takes a beautiful polish. The fibrous centre of -old stems is made into salad. By far the most important fibrous part of -the cocoa-palm is the coir, the fibre of the husk of the imperfectly -ripened nut. The sun-dried husk of the ripe nut is used for fuel, and -also, when cut across, for polishing furniture, scrubbing floors, etc. -The shell of the nut is made into cups, goblets, ladles, etc., and these -household articles are often finely polished and elaborately ornamented -by carving. This, the most generous of all trees, from the time of its -birth until it yields to the ravages of time, serves man in hundreds of -different ways, furnishing him with food and drink, clothing, -building-material, fuel, medicine, most exquisite delicacies, wine, -spirits and many articles of comfort and even of luxury. What other tree -but the cocoa-palm could have been in the mind of Milton when he wrote: - - In heav'n the trees - - Of life ambrosial fruitage bear, and vines - - Yield nectar. - - - -The cocoa-palm is a peaceful, modest, virtuous tree. It prefers its own -kin, but is charitable to its neighbors, irrespective of race. It towers -far above the sea of less favored trees, which find in its shade -protection against the burning rays of the tropic sun and the fury of -the trade-winds. Proudly it stands guard at the shores of the coral-girt -islands of the South Pacific, waving its lofty, fruit-laden crown, -responding alike to the cool, refreshing land breezes and the humid -trade-winds in the balmy air of the tropics. Peaceful and lovely is a -forest of palms, where - - Leaves live only to enjoy love, and throughout the forest every tree - is luxuriating in affectionate embrace; palm, as it nods to palm, - joins in mutual love; the poplar sighs for the poplar; plane whispers - to plane, and alder to alder. - - CLAUDIANUS. - -The sight of a forest of cocoa-palms from a distance is imposing, a walk -through it full of enchantment. Nowhere does this noble tree appear to -better advantage than in Tahiti. This, the most favored of all islands, -is engirdled by an almost unbroken belt of palm-forest, stretching from -the very verge of the ocean to the base of the foot-hills, with the -towering, tree-clad mountains for a background; a forest planted by the -invisible hand of Nature, a forest cared for by Nature, a forest which -produces nearly all of the necessities of life for the natives from day -to day, and year to year, with unfailing regularity. Enter this forest -and the eye feasts on a scene which neither the pen of the most skilled -naturalist nor the brush of the ablest landscape artist can reproduce -with anything that would do justice to nature's inexhaustible resources -and artistic designs. Such a scene must be gazed upon to be appreciated. -Between the colonnade of symmetrical silvery stems and crowns of -feathery fronds, inlaid with the ponderous golden fruit, the eye catches -glimpses of the blue, placid ocean, the foam-crested breakers, of the -still more beautifully blue dome of the sky, the deep green carpet of -the unbroken tropic forest thrown over the mountainsides, or the naked, -rugged, brown peaks basking in the sunlight, and on all sides flowers of -various hues and most delicate tints. Surely, - - Who can paint - - Like Nature? Can imagination boast. - - Amid its gay creation, hues like hers, - - Or can it mix them with that matchless skill. - - And lose them in each other, as appears - - In every bud that blows? - - THOMSON. - -Add to the pleasures flashed upon the mind by the ravished eye, the -perfumed, soothing air of the tropics, the sweet sounds of the aeolian -harp as the gentle breeze strikes its well-timed chords in the fronded -crowns of the palms overhead, the bubbling of the ripples of the near-by -ocean as they kiss the sandy rim of the island shore, and the clashes of -the breakers as they strike with unerring regularity the coral reef, the -outer wall of the calm lagoon, and your soul will be in a mood to join -the poet in singing the praises of nature: - - O Nature! - - Enrich me with knowledge of thy works: - - Snatch me to heaven! - - THOMSON. - -Queen of the tropic isles, guardian of their sun-kissed strands, friend -of their dusky, simple children of Nature! Continue in the future as you -have done in the past, to dispense your work of generosity and unselfish -charity, to sustain and protect the life of man and beast in a climate -you love and revere, a climate adverse for man to earn his daily bread -by the sweat of his brow! I have seen your charms in your favorite -island-abode and studied with interest your innumerable deeds of -generosity, your full storehouse for the urgent needs of man and your -safe refuge for the inhabitants of the air. Had Whittier visited the -island Paradise, your native home, he would have written in the positive -in the first stanza, when he framed that beautiful verse: - - I know not where His islands lift - - Their fronded palms in air; - - I only know I can not drift - - Beyond His love and care! - -There is no other country and no other island in the world that has such -a variety of indigenous fruit trees as Tahiti. Add to these trees that -have furnished the natives with an abundance of fruit for centuries, the -fruit trees that have been introduced since the island was discovered, -and many of which flourish now in a wild state in the forests, and it -will give some idea concerning the wealth of fruit to be found in the -forests of Tahiti. Most of the inland habitations away from the coast -have been abandoned long ago, and in all these places, in the valleys -and high up on the mountainsides, many kinds of exogenous fruit trees, -planted by former generations, have gained a permanent foothold. Here -they multiply, blossom, ripen their fruit, and all the islanders have to -do is to gather the annual crop. Here delicious little thin-skinned -oranges grow, and the finest lemons and limes can be had for the -gathering. The poor find here - - Fruits of all kinds in coat - - Rough or smooth rind, or bearded husk or shell, - - She gathers tribute large, and on the board - - Heaps with unsparing hand. - - MILTON. - - - -Nothing reminds one more of Tahiti being the forbidden Garden of Eden, -than the abundance of fruit that grows in the forests without the -intervention of man. Some kind of fruit can be found during all seasons -of the year, and - - Small store will serve, where store - - All seasons, ripe for use, hangs on the stalk. - - MILTON. - -It is here not as in most countries where - - The poor inhabitant beholds in vain - - The redd'ning orange and the swelling grain. - - ADDISON. - -as the poorest of the poor have access to Nature's orchard and can fill -their palm-leaf baskets with the choicest fruits. The Tahitian - - He feeds on fruits, which of their own accord - - The willing ground and laden tree afford. - - DRYDEN. - -This mingling, in the most friendly manner, of the old forest trees with -familiar fruit trees introduced from distant lands and laden with golden -fruit, is a most beautiful sight. The fruit trees stand their ground -even against the most aggressive shrubs, and it is often no easy matter -to reach the ripe hiding fruit in the dense network of branches thrown -around and between the branches of the imprisoned tree. What a blessing -these acid fruits are to the natives, sweltering under the rays of the -tropic sun! How easy it is for them to make a cooling, refreshing drink! -Take a young cocoanut, open it at one end, and add to its milk the juice -of a lime or a lemon, and the healthiest and most refreshing drink is -made. - - Bear me, Pomona! to thy citron groves, - - To where the lemon and the piercing lime, - - With the deep orange glowing through the green, - - Their lighter glories lend. - - THOMSON. - -It is claimed that the large apple family is the descendant of the -Siberian crab-apple, modified by climate, soil and grafting. This -statement appears to me incorrect, as I have seen a tree in the Hawaiian -forests which bears a real sweet apple which in shape and taste has a -strong resemblance to the apples of our orchards. The tree is from -twenty to thirty feet in height, slender and few branched. The same tree -is found in the forests of Tahiti, and its fruit is much sought after by -the natives. It would be difficult to connect the wild apple tree of the -South Sea Islands with the Siberian crab-apple, to which it bears no -resemblance, either in the appearance of the tree or its fruit. Let us -now consider a few of the fruit trees which adorn and enrich the forests -of Tahiti: - -_Alligator Pear_, or _Avocado_.—This is the most delicate and luscious of -all the fruit-products of the Tahitian forests, where it is found in its -wild state in great abundance. It is the fruit of the _Persea gratissima_, -a tree belonging to the natural order _Lauraceæ_, an evergreen tree of the -tropic regions of America and the South Sea Islands. It attains a height -of from thirty to seventy feet, with a slender stem and dome-like, leafy -top. The branches, like the stem, are slender, and ascend on quite an -acute angle from their base. The leaves resemble those of the laurel. -The flowers are small, and are produced toward the extremities of the -branches. The fruit is a drupe, but in size and shape resembles a large -pear. The rind is green, thin, and somewhat rough on the outside. In the -center of the pulp is a large, heart-shaped kernel, wrapped in a thin, -paper-like membrane. The pulp is green or yellowish, not very sweet, but -of a delicious taste and exiquisite flavor, and contains about eight per -cent, of a greenish fixed oil. The way to eat this delicious fruit is to -cut it in two lengthwise, remove the kernel, season with sweet oil, -vinegar, salt and pepper, and eat with a teaspoon. In the form of a -salad it is one of the daintiest of all dishes. The softness of the pulp -and the richness in oil have led the French to call this fruit -"Vegetable butter." The seeds of the alligator pear have come into -medical use at the instance of Dr. Froehlig, and particularly through -the efforts of Park, Davis & Co., a manufacturing firm. The alligator -pear is a very perishable fruit, which accounts for its scarcity and -fabulous price in our markets. - -_Pawpaw or Papaya_ is the fruit of the _Carica Papaya_, natural order -_Papayaceæ_. It is an exceedingly graceful, branchless little tree, which -grows to the height of from ten to twenty feet and is of short vitality. -Its natural home is in South America and the islands of the Pacific. The -cylindrical stem is grayish white, roughened in circles where the -previous whorls of leaves had their attachment. The leaves are from -twenty to thirty inches long and are arranged in the form of a whorl at -the very top of the stem, where also the fruit grows, close to the stem. -The fruit when ripe is light yellow, very similar to a small melon, and -with a somewhat similar flavor. The skin is very thin and the pulp -exceedingly soft, hence a very perishable fruit. The seeds are numerous, -round and black, and when chewed have, in a high degree, the pungency of -cresses. It requires time to acquire a taste for this healthy, very -digestible tropical fruit, but when once developed, it is keenly -relished. It is eaten either raw or boiled. It possesses digestive -properties of considerable value, which have been utilized in the -preparation of a vegetable pepsin. The acrid, milky sap of the tree or -the juice of the fruit much diluted with water, renders any tough meat -washed with it, tender for cooking purposes, by separating the muscular -fibres (Dr. Holder). It is said even the exhalations from the tree have -this property; and meats, fowls, etc., are hung among its leaves to -prepare them for cooking. The tree is of very rapid growth, bears fruit -all the year and is very prolific. - -_Mango_ is the fruit of _Mangifera Indica_. It is a stately, -broad-branching, very shady tree, from thirty to forty feet in height, -belonging to the natural order _Anacardiaceæ_. The stem is short, from -eight to ten feet, when it divides into long, graceful branches, with an -impenetrable foliage, a fine protection against the rain and the -scorching rays of the sun. The bark is almost black and somewhat rough. -The leaves are in clusters, lanceolate, entire, alternate, petioled, -smooth, shining, tough, and about seven inches long, with an agreeable -resinous smell. The flowers are small, reddish white or yellowish, in -large, erect, terminal panicles. The fruit is kidney-shaped, smooth, -greenish yellow, with or without ruddy cheeks, varying greatly in size -and quality, and containing a large, flattened stone, which is covered -on the outside with fibrous filaments, largest and most abundant in the -inferior varieties, some of which consist chiefly of fibre and juice, -while the finer ones have a comparatively solid pulp. The size varies -from that of a large plum to that of a man's fist. The largest and -finest mangoes are found in Tahiti. The fruit is luscious and agreeably -sweet, with an aromatic flavor and slightly acid taste. The kernels are -nutritious, and have been cooked for food in times of scarcity. A mango -tree laden with its golden fruit is a pleasing sight, and reminds one -vividly of a Christmas tree. - -_Lime_.—The fruit of _Citrus Planchoni, Citrus Australis Planchon_. The lime -tree of Tahiti was undoubtedly introduced from Eastern Australia, where -it is found as a noble tree, fully forty feet high, or, according to C. -Hartmann, even sixty feet high. In Tahiti the tree is small, and in the -dense jungles hardly exceeds the size of a shrub. The stem, as well as -its numerous slender, wide-spreading, prickly branches, is very crooked. -The fruit is similar to the lemon, but much smaller in size, being only -about one and one-half inches in diameter, and almost globular in shape, -with a smooth, green, thin rind and an extremely acid, pungent juice. -For a thirst-quenching drink, the lime-juice is far preferable to the -lemon. - -_Pomegranate_.—The fruit of _Punica Granatum_, a shrub belonging to the -natural order _Granataceæ_. This historic and useful shrub grows -luxuriantly and with little or no care, in the fertile, sun-kissed soil -of Tahiti. More than one-half of the interior of the oval purple fruit -consists of large black seeds. The seedless variety has evidently never -been introduced. The juice is subacid and very palatable. The flowers -are ornamental, and sometimes are double. The rind of the fruit and the -bark of the roots possess valuable medicinal properties. Consider for a -moment what nature has done for the support, comfort and pleasure of the -inhabitants of Tahiti, and we are ready to admit the truth of what the -prince of poets said: - - Here is everything advantageous to life. - - SHAKESPEARE. - -And we can answer with a positive yes the question proposed by another -famous poet, in the beautiful stanza: - - Know'st thou the land where the lemon trees bloom, - - Where the gold orange glows in the deep thicket's gloom, - - Where a wind ever soft from the blue heaven blows, - - And the groves are of laurel and myrtle and rose? - - GOETHE. - - - -THE FORESTS OF TAHITI - -The primeval forests are the pride of Tahiti. Indirectly they are the -wealth of the little island. They have been spared the ravages of the -woodman's ax. The forests have been kind to the natives and the natives -to the forests. The avaricious lumberman, the greatest enemy of public -wealth and general prosperity, has fortunately so far not had a design -on the magnificent forests of Tahiti, and may he never be permitted to -carry on his work of destruction in this island paradise! The giant -trees, growing the finest and most valuable timber, hold out much -inducement to get-rich-quick men, but they have been destined for a -better purpose; they, with the more menial companions, the humble, lowly -shrubs, attract the clouds, determine rain, retain moisture and fill the -river-beds, creeks and rivulets with the purest water. The forests -extend from the shore to near the highest mountain-peaks, making up one -great green sea of foliage, interrupted here and there by the summits of -hills, ridges, and bare spots of brown, volcanic earth, where vegetation -of any kind has been forbidden to take a foothold. Along and near the -coast are the charming groves of cocoa-palms, where the ordinary trees, -out of deference to the queen of the tropic forests, are few and modest -in their ambition to compete with her in height. Here the guava shrub, -groaning under the weight of its golden fruit, adds to the beauty of the -grove. A walk through such a grove, with glimpses of the blue ocean and -the verdant tree-clad hills and mountains, will bring the conviction -that - - The groves were God's first temples. - - BRYANT. - -Raising the eyes and looking up the steep incline of the mountains -clothed in perennial verdure by a dense virgin forest, we are almost -instinctively reminded of the beautiful lines of Dryden: - - There stood a forest on the mountain's brow, which - - overlook'd the shady plains below; - - No sounding axe presumed these trees to bite, coeval - - with the world; a venerable sight. - -The forest in the tropics has no rest. From one end of the year to the -other, it appears the same. There is no general disrobing at the bidding -of an uncompromising, stern winter. There are no arctic chills to suffer -and no burden of snow to brave. Most of the trees are evergreen, and the -few that imitate the example of their kind in the North by an annual -change of their leaves, perform this task almost imperceptibly. There -are no bald crowns and bare arms. Spring, summer and autumn mingle -throughout the year; blossoming and ripe fruits go hand in hand in the -same tree or neighboring trees. A walk through a tropic forest is no -easy thing, owing to the dense interlacing and often prickly -undergrowth, but the visitor is amply rewarded for his efforts. Every -step brings new revelations, new surprises. Nowhere are there any signs -of deforestation, either by fire or the cruel, thoughtless hand of man. -You are in a forest - - Where the rude ax, with heaved stroke, - - Was never heard the nymphs to daunt, - - Or frown them from their hallow'd haunts. - - MILTON. - -The biggest trees are in the shaded, rich ravines and far up on the -mountainside or hill-tops. They seem to be conscious of their -superiority and power in the selection of their abode. Look at one of -these monsters, with wide-spread, giant branches and impenetrable -foliage, and - - View well this tree, the queen of all the grove; - - How vast her bole, how wide her arms are spread. - - How high above the rest she shoots her head! - - DRYDEN. - - - -But in these forests, so full of life and perpetual activity, -indications of death are seen here and there. The numerous climbing -vines which, serpent-like, creep up and embrace in their deathly grasp -some young, vigorous tree, have no good intentions for their patient, -helpless host. The struggle may last for years, but the ultimate result -is sure. The cruelty of the unwelcome intruder increases with his age -and, strength. The fight for life becomes more and more intense. The -plant-serpent throttles its victim more and more, penetrates its body -with its additional roots, and sucks the very life-blood from its -vitals. What promised to become the giant of the forest sickens and -succumbs to a slow, lingering, ignominious death. The victory is -complete and he now stands with - - Pithless arms, like a wither'd vine, - - That droops his sapless branches to the ground. - - SHAKESPEARE. - -The ruthless climber has accomplished its purpose and it has become so -strong and has made such intricate interlacements with adjoining trees -that it holds the corpse erect in its cold embrace for an indefinite -period of time, until some strong wind lays low forever the victor with -the vanquished. - -Like everywhere else where the soil is fertile and other conditions for -plant-growth favorable, so in the Tahitian forest, rank plant-life -prospers. The lantana (Lantana Crocca) a shrubby plant two to four feet -high, with beautiful little yellow and purple flowers arranged in -umbels, has overrun the whole island. It is here, as in some of the -other islands of the Pacific, the most aggressive and most troublesome -of all weeds, and it is this plant which interferes with a more abundant -growth of grass and consequently with a more productive pasturage in -wild and cultivated grounds. - -The sense of isolation and solitude is nowhere more profound than in a -tropical forest, and more especially so in Tahiti, as here animal life -is scarce. The only game found are domestic hogs and chickens, which -have run wild, and these are scarce. There are no birds of plumage and -few song-birds. Chameleons frequent sunny spots, and butterflies, of all -sizes and colors, enliven the air. There are no snakes and few poisonous -insects; no deer, bear, leopards or monkeys. Even the ordinary -water-birds, with the exception of a small species of sea-gull and -occasionally a crane, seem to avoid this island. - -A day spent in the wonderful forests of Tahiti will bring no regrets; on -the other hand, will be replete with pleasure and profit, and will leave -charming pictures on memory's tablet which time can never efface. On the -brightest day, darkness reigns underneath the almost impenetrable roof -of branches, vines and foliage. Here and there the sun's rays penetrate -through the gigantic bowery maze, and fall upon the ground with almost -unnatural intensity, frequently appearing and disappearing as the wind -plays with the leaves. - - The green leaves quiver with the cooling wind, - - And make a checker'd shadow on the ground. - - SHAKESPEARE. - -The solemn silence of the forest, the grandeur of vegetation, the -effects of light and shadows, are impressive, and the visitor will carry -away from Tahiti an inspiring and lasting mental picture of - - Her forests huge, - - Incult, robust, and tall, by Nature's hand - - Planted of old. - - THOMSON. - -NOTED FOREST TREES OF TAHITI - -The forests of Tahiti comprise many species of trees, the timber of -which would command a high price in the market, but it is my intention -here to enumerate and briefly describe only a few of the trees which -interest the visitor the most, as he will see them wherever he goes as -shade trees, and as component parts of the magnificent forests. - -_Purau or Burao_ is the _Hibiscus tiliaceus_ (Linné), (syn.: _Paritium -tiliaceum_), order _Malvaceæ_. The flowers are bell-shaped, of a beautiful -canary color, but quickly fall and turn to red or reddish brown. They -are made up of five imbricated petals, painted a dark brown at their -base and inner surface. The glaucous leaf-like calix is five-parted. The -five stamens form a sheath for the pistil, which is five-parted and -brown at its apex. The large leaves are used by the native housewives in -lieu of a table-cloth. It is said that the macerated leaves and flowers -are used to heal burns, bruises, etc. (McDaniels). The trunks of the -largest trees are made into canoes. The inner tough bark serves as a -substitute for hemp in the making of twine and ropes. The roots of this -tree have earned a reputation as a valuable medicine in the treatment of -diseases of the gastro-intestinal canal. This is a common and beautiful -shade tree in Papeete, and if the traveler visits the island in January -or February he will find it in full bloom. The dark green leaves and the -light yellow flowers form a very pleasing contrast. It attains a height -of from forty to sixty and more feet. The short and often very crooked -stem sends off numerous large branches, clothed, like the stem, in a -rough black bark. The branches are often so crooked and tortuous that -they form such an intricate entanglement that even the woodman's ax -would meet with difficulties to isolate and liberate them. The branches -appear to have an intrinsic tendency to reach the ground, and when they -do so strike root and become daughter trees, growing skyward, and soon -rival in height the parent tree. In the woods it is not uncommon to find -the parent tree surrounded at variable distances by numerous daughter -trees. Many such ambitious branches are formed into graceful arches -before they attain the wished-for independence. This tree, with its -numerous offspring and interlacing branches, contributes much in -rendering the jungles in which it grows impenetrable in many places. The -wood is white and soft. The leaves are as large as an ordinary small -soup-plate, long-petioled, seven-ribbed, broadly cordate and acuminate, -dark green and glossy on their upper, and strongly veined and paler, on -their lower surface. - - - -_Banyan Tree_.—The _Ficus Indica_, a native tree of India, remarkable for -its vast rooting branches, outstripping in this respect by far the tree -just described. It is a species of wild fig, has ovate, heart-shaped, -entire leaves, about five or six inches long, and produces a fruit of a -rich scarlet color, not larger than a cherry, growing in pairs front the -axils of the leaves. The branches send shoots downwards, which, when -they have rooted, become stems; the tree in this manner spreading over a -great surface, and enduring for many years. The banyan tree found in the -island of Tahiti docs not spread as much as the Indian tree, and the -aerial roots which later become a part of the trunk after they strike -the ground and develop an independent existence, become supplied with -new roots. Most of the aerial roots of the Tahitian tree take their -origin from the lower part of the trunk and remain in close contact with -it after they strike the ground, and many of them remain dangling free -in the air in vain attempts to secure an independent existence, the -branch roots being comparatively few. The tree is found at short -intervals along the ninety-mile drive, and the largest one I saw was in -the front yard of the Cercle Bougainville, the French club in Papeete. - -_Pandanus Tree, Screw Pine_.—The _Pandanus Freycinctia_ natural order of -_Pandaneæ_. There are about fifty species of this tree, natives of South -Africa to Polynesia. The pandanus tree of Tahiti is a palm-like tree -which is found along the shore close to the water's edge, with a short -white stem, much branched with long, simple imbricated leaves, usually -spiny on the back and margin, their base embracing the stem, their -spiral arrangement being well marked. The base of the stem does not -touch the ground, but rests on a cluster of strong roots, which diverge -somewhat before they strike the soil. The leaves are much used for -thatch roofs and the thin, compact, superficial layer serves as wrappers -for the native cigarettes. The fruit is edible and is eaten by the -natives in times of scarcity of food. - -_Flame Tree, Flamboyer_.—The _Brachychiton acerifolium_ is the Australian -flame-tree introduced, as is asserted, into Tahiti by Bougainville. It -is a magnificent and common shade tree in Papeete, but is also found -scattered all along the coast of the island. It is an evergreen tree -with showy trusses of crimson flowers. This is the most beautiful of all -ornamental trees in the island. The mucilaginous sap, when exuded, -indurates to a kind of bassarin—tragacanth. - -VANILLA CULTIVATION IN TAHITI - -The cultivation of the aromatic vanilla-bean is one of the principal -industries of Tahiti. The bean grows luxuriantly in the shady forests in -the lowlands along the coast, and requires but little care. The climate -and soil of Tahiti are specially adapted to the cultivation of the -vanilla-bean, as the very best quality is grown here. The _Vanilla -aromatica_ is a genus of parasitic _Orchidaceæ_, a native of tropic parts -of America and Asia, which springs at first from the ground and climbs -with twining stems to the height of from twenty to thirty feet on trees, -sending into them fibrous roots, produced from nodes, from which the -leaves grow. These roots, drawing the sap from the trees, sustain the -plant, even after the ground-root has been destroyed. Flower white; -corolla tubular; stigma distant from anthers, rendering spontaneous -fructification difficult; leaves oblong, light green, fleshy, with an -exceedingly acrid juice; flowers in spikes, very large, fleshy and -generally fragrant. The fruit is a pod-like, fleshy capsule, opening -along the side. The ripe bean is cylindrical, about nine inches in -length, and less than half an inch thick. It is gathered before it is -entirely ripe, and dried in the shade. It contains within its tough -pericarp a soft black pulp, in which many minute seeds are imbedded. The -plant is cultivated by cuttings. In Mexico and South American countries, -the insects effect impregnation; in Tahiti, this is done artificially. -With a small, sharp stick the pollen is conveyed to the stigma of the -pistil. Artificial impregnation of fifteen hundred flowers is considered -a good day's work. Allusion has been made elsewhere to the fact that the -shrewd Chinamen have depreciated the vanilla industry in Tahiti and -ruined the reputation of the product. If the natives could be induced to -stop their dealings with the scheming Chinese merchants and traders, and -the government would release them from export duty, the cultivation of -vanilla would soon regain its former importance and would yield a very -profitable income. The Tahitians are not agriculturists; they are averse -to hard manual labor; they are - - Of proud-lived loiterers, that never sow, - - Nor put a plant in earth, nor use a plough. - - CHAPMAN. - -and hence are anxious to obtain what little money they need with as -little effort as possible. Vanilla, once planted, requires very little -attention, and it grows most luxuriantly in the dark shadow of the dense -forest, where the natives engaged in artificial impregnation of the -flower and in gathering the bean are protected against the direct heat -of the sun. The great advantage of vanilla-cultivation to the island -consists in the fact that this valuable article of commerce can be grown -without deforestation, so essential in the cultivation of much less -valuable products of the soil of the tropics. - - - -THE RURAL DISTRICTS - -Papeete is not the place to study the natives, their habits and customs, -as European influence and example have here largely effaced the -simplicity and charms of native life. The rural districts are the places -for the tourist to get glimpses of real native life. He will find there -the best specimens of natives, and an opportunity to study their -primitive methods of living. There is no other island of similar size -where the traveler will find it so easy to visit all of the rural -districts and villages. By following the ninety-mile drive, he can -encircle the entire island in a comfortable carriage, and finish the -trip in four days, if his time is limited, and in doing so he sees the -inhabited part of the island and nearly all of the villages. He will see -on this trip Paea Grotto and cave, also picnic-grounds, eighteen miles -from Papeete, Papara, six miles further, is noted for native singing, -chanting and dancing. The real Tahitian life is met at Pari and Tautira. -On the other side of the island, the road skirts along the coast and -ascends five hundred feet above the level of the sea. The drive is a -charming one, as the traveler never loses the sight of mountains and -hills, and only very seldom, and at long intervals, of the blue Pacific -Ocean. In some places the road-bed is cut through solid rock, and for a -few moments the panoramic view of the magnificent scenery is shut out -from sight, but on the other side of the cut a picture more beautiful -than ever is unrolled. The ocean claims the first attention as it smiles -in the dazzling sunshine beneath where - - The murmuring surge, - - That on th' unnumber'd idle pebbles chafes. - - Can not be heard so high. - - SHAKESPEARE. - -In the distance we can see the foam-crested waves dash over the coral -reef in their attempts to reach the placid waters of the peaceful -lagoon, where the wavelets play with the pebbles on the shore. Looking -toward the left, we again are face to face with the mountains, that are -our constant companions, on the entire route. There is a feeling of -solemnity which takes possession of the soul when communing with Nature -in her grandest mood, and we begin to feel that - - I live not myself, but I become - - Portion of that around me; and to me - - High mountains are a feeling; but the hum - - Of human cities, torture. - - BYRON. - -We see the naked mountain-peaks and the bare backs of the foot-hills. - - Rock-ribbed, and ancient as the sun. - - BRYANT. - -We pass through magnificent groves of cocoa-palms, and now the road -leads through a primeval forest with an impenetrable jungle on its -floor, where - - The winds within the quiv'ring branches play'd, - - And dancing trees a mournful music made. - - DRYDEN. - -We pass through or near the quaint native villages peopled with naked -children, scantily dressed women, and men whose only garment consists of -a much-checkered, many-colored calico loin-cloth. We cross rivers, -brooks and rivulets without number, and looking for their source we see -glimpses, here and there, of cascades and cataracts, high up on the -mountainside, in the form of streaks of silver in the clefts of the deep -green ocean of trees. We see butterflies by the hundreds, of all colors, -playing in the sunshine or eagerly devouring the nectar of the sweetest -flowers. We admire the richness and variety of the floral kingdom, and -inhale the perfume of the fragrant flowers, suspended in the pure air -and wafted to us by the cool land breeze sent down from the top of the -mountains. As the sun approaches the horizon, and the short, bewitching -twilight sets in, with the gorgeous display of colors in the sky and the -wonderful effects of light and shadow on sea and shore, we can realize -that - - Softly the evening came. The sun from the western horizon - - Like a magician extended his golden wand o'er the landscape; - - Twinkling vapors arose; and sky, and water, and forest. - - Seemed all on fire at the touch, and melted and mingled together. - - LONGFELLOW. - -The vistas and views along this circular drive are infinite; the -surprises at every turn without number. No matter how much the visitor -may have traveled, even if he has seen the whole world outside of this -blessed island, he will see here many things he has never seen before. -Every step brings new revelations of the beauty and goodness of Nature -and her tender care for man. What a paradise for lovers of nature, for -poets and artists! Here is a place above all others in the world, where - - No tears - - Dim the sweet look that Nature wears. - - LONGFELLOW. - -The further the visitor wends his way from Papeete, the more he will -find the natives in their natural state, and the less contaminated by -European influence. On the opposite side of the island, at Pari, the -people have preserved their native customs, and live now about in the -same manner as when Wallis discovered the island. Religion and -civilization have liberated them from ancient barbarities, but have had -little influence in changing their customs, for - - Custom has an ascendency over the understanding. - - DR. I. WATTS. - -All of the villages scattered at short intervals along the ninety-mile -drive are small; the largest with not more than five hundred -inhabitants. In Papeete, and between it and Papara, the natives live in -small frame houses, built on piling several feet above the ground, -covered with a roof of corrugated iron, and made more spacious and -comfortable by a veranda facing the road. Few native houses are -encountered on this part of the journey. Beyond Papara they are the -rule, and these retain their primitive charm. They are built of upright -sticks of bamboo, lashed side by side to a frame of stripped poles in -the form of an oval. Upon this is a heavy roof of pandanus thatch -covering a cool, well-ventilated, sanitary home. The air circulates -freely through the open spaces between the poles, as well as between the -two doorways on opposite sides of the house. Mats take the place of a -floor. - - - -Cooking is done outside without the use of a stove. The native oven is a -very simple affair, as it consists of a layer of stones upon which a -fire is built. When heated to the requisite degree—and this is a matter -the experienced housewife must determine—the food is placed amid the -embers, wrapped in pieces of banana leaves and covered over with piles -of damp breadfruit leaves. Breadfruit, taro, green bananas and -plantains, are the articles of food prepared in this way. The roasting -of a pig, the favorite meat of the South Sea Islanders, is a more -complicated process, and to do it well requires much experience. A hole -is dug in the ground and paved with stones, upon which a fire is built. -When the stones are thoroughly heated and the fire exhausted or -extinguished, the whole animal, properly prepared and wrapped in leaves, -is placed in the pit, covered with damp leaves and loose earth. On great -festive occasions, fowl and fish are added to the contents of the pit. -The pork, fowl and fish cooked in this manner are delicious, and the -slightly smoky taste only adds to their savoriness. It is the pride of -the cook to remove the roasted pig without mutilation, usually a very -delicate task. Chicken, boiled in the milk of the cocoanut, is another -masterpiece of native cookery. The cocoanut is prepared in many ways for -the table and a sauce made of the compressed juice of the grated nut, -mixed with lime juice and sea-water, makes a most palatable sauce for -meats and fish. - -House-building and housekeeping are free from care and never ruffle the -family peace. If a young couple desire to establish a home of their own, -they signify their intentions to their friends and neighbors. These -gather, usually Sunday afternoon at two o'clock, at the place selected -for the new home, bring bamboo sticks, poles and pandanus leaves, and at -sundown the house is ready for occupation. The pandanus roof does -efficient service for about seven years, when it has to be removed and -replaced by a new one. The bamboo framework, properly protected, lasts -for a much longer time. As the whole house consists of a single oval -room, is floorless and not encumbered by furniture of any kind, the -house-wife has an easy existence, more especially as the children can -not outwear their clothing, and their husband's loin-cloths need no -repairs. - -While meat in Tahiti is scarce, every family has an easy access to a -rich fish-supply. The fish which swarm in the lagoons and outside of the -reefs furnish an easily secured food-supply. They are caught in -different ways—by hook or netting—and not the least picturesque way is -the torchlight fishing on the lagoon. Torches are improvised of long -cocoa-palm leaves tied into rolls. With a boat-load of these, together -with nets and spears, the fishermen in their canoes paddle out upon the -water after dark. Flying fish, attracted by the light, shoot overhead -and are dexterously caught in a hand-net. Other kinds of fish, by aid of -the light, are speared over the side of the canoe. _Dolphin_ and bonita, -the latter a favorite fish, are taken with the hook and line, in larger -canoes sailing on the open sea, but this kind of fishing is left to a -few hardy men. The women scoop up small river-fish in baskets, and -drag-nets are used in capturing the many varieties of small fish of the -lagoon. While the fish are being cooked in the underground oven, some -member of the family goes into the adjacent forest and in a short time -returns with breadfruit, and a variety of fruits, to make up a dainty -and substantial repast. - -The island is divided into seventeen districts and each district has its -own chief, who is entrusted with the local government. The chiefs are -elected by popular vote every few years, the office being no longer -hereditary. The chief resides in the principal village of his district -and here is to be invariably found a government school, a Protestant and -a Catholic church with its respective parochial school, and a -meeting-house which serves as a gathering-place for the annual native -plays and on all occasions of public concern. A daily mail supplies the -rural population with the news of the island and keeps them in touch -with the outside world. Abject poverty in the city and country is -unknown, and begging is looked upon as a disgrace. There is neither -wealth nor poverty in Tahiti. The people have all they need and all they -desire, and - - Poor and content is rich, and rich enough. - - SHAKESPEARE. - -I am quite sure that the tourist who has tasted freely of modern life -such as it now is in our large cities, with all its cares and -temptations, all its unrealness and disappointments, when he has seen -the happy, contented, free-from-care Tahitians, in their charming island -and simple homes, will be willing to confess: - - For my part, I should prefer to be always poor, in blessings such as - these. - - HORATIUS. - -and - - Everything that exceeds the bounds of moderation has an unstable - foundation. - - SENECA. - - - -POINT VENUS - -Every visitor to Tahiti should visit Point Venus, as it is a historic -place near where the Europeans made their first landings in Matavai Bay, -and where the first white settlers cast their lot with the natives. It -is in this neighborhood where the English missionaries established their -permanent home and from here spread the new tidings of the gospel over -the entire island. They labored in vain for nearly twenty years, when -all at once a religious wave swept over the island which resulted in the -speedy Christianization of almost the entire population. I have already -referred to Point Venus as the place where the government lighthouse is -located and where Captain Cook had his headquarters when he and the -scientists who accompanied him observed the transit of Venus by order of -the English government in the year 1769. The place where the scientific -observations were made is marked by a modest monument of stone -surrounded by an iron railing, on which are inscribed the data -commemorative of the work accomplished. Close by this monument, on the -most prominent point, has been erected the lighthouse which guides the -mariner in approaching the island during the night. The distance from -Papeete to Point Venus is seven miles, over a macadamized road which we -found in a somewhat neglected condition. Two native villages, Pirae and -Arue, are passed on the way, and a third, Haapape, is close by. The road -leads through groves of cocoa-palms, primeval forests and jungles, and a -part of it skirts the foot-hills of the towering mountains. Most of the -time the beautiful lagoon, dotted here and there with fishermen's -canoes, is in sight. The calmness of the air, the solemnity of the -surroundings and the sight of these canoes on the unruffled lagoon, -reminded us of - - Low stir of leaves and dip of oars - - And lapsing waves on quiet shores. - - WHITTIER. - -Some of the more daring fishermen we saw outside of the reef, in the -same frail crafts, battling with a rougher sea, but the skilled use of -their very primitive paddles kept the canoes in good motion and steady, -and it seemed - - She walks the waters like a thing of life, - - And seems to dare the elements to strife, - - BYRON. - -Matavai Bay, which the road follows for a considerable distance, is a -beautiful sheet of water. It was in this bay that the ships of the early -voyagers found a resting-place, and where on its shore the first white -men touched the soil of Tahiti and came face to face with a people who -had never heard of a world outside of the islands of the Pacific. The -scenery all along this drive is truly tropical. The floral wealth is -great and its variety endless. It was on this drive I found the -passion-flower in full bloom and exquisite beauty. - -Near Point Venus we met a gang of natives, in charge of the chief of the -district, engaged in repairing the road. All except the chief were in -loin-cloths as their only article of dress. They worked leisurely, and -smoked and chatted in a way that showed that they were happy even when -bearing the burden of the day and the scorching rays of the tropic sun, -with nothing in view for their ten-o'clock breakfast but the cool -mountain water instead of coffee, breadfruit or plantain (_fei_) for -bread, and some fruit gathered in the woods on their way to work. - -The round trip from Papeete to Point Venus can be made in three hours, -and gives one a very excellent idea of the general topography of the -island and is replete with both pleasure and profit. - -FAUTAHUA VALLEY - -The next interesting short drive from Papeete is to the Fautahua Valley, -distance four miles. It is noted for delightful river scenery and tropic -vegetation, and at the end of the valley is a beautiful waterfall. This -charming valley, with its typical tropic scenery enclosed by towering -mountains and resounding with the rippling, dashing music of a turbulent -mountain stream and the babbling and murmuring of the many brooks and -rivulets of pure crystal water which feed it, is well worth a visit. -This valley was once densely populated, if we can judge from the -abundance of imported fruit trees and the coffee shrub which now -flourish in the forest unaided by the care of man, while, at the present -time, the native huts are few and far apart. Wild arrowroot grows here -in profusion, and a variety of exogenous shade trees have become an -important component part of the primeval forest, rendered almost -impenetrable by vines and a dense undergrowth. A carriage-road extends -to Fashoda Bridge, well up in the mountains, beyond which it leads up -the gorge, past a waterfall which leaps over a rocky rim, where the -mountains join to the bed of the stream, six hundred feet below. In -different places the romantic mountain road is spanned by graceful -arches of branches of the pauru tree, ambitious to find on the opposite -side of the road an independent existence from the parent tree. One of -the large, quiet pools below the Fashoda Bridge, a favorite -bathing-place for women and their daughters, has been made famous by the -writings of Pierre Loti, a French author. - -From Fashoda Bridge a bridle path leads up a very steep incline to the -French military post in the very heart of the mountains, six thousand -feet above the level of the sea. It was here that the natives made their -last stand in their war with France. A little beyond the fort rise the -crags which compose "the Diadem," a conspicuous landmark in the -mountains of Tahiti. - -The view from Fashoda Bridge in all directions is inspiring: at the end -of the gorge the waterfall dashing over the volcanic rock, pulverized at -many points in its descent into silvery spray; the tree-clad mountains -on each side with their steeples of bare rock; beneath, the wild -mountain stream, speeding to find rest in the quiet basin below; and all -around, the rank vegetation which only the tropics under the most -favorable conditions can grow, and above, the clear blue sky, -brilliantly illuminated by the morning sun. As late as nine o'clock in -the forenoon we found everything bathed in a heavy dew, which added much -to the beauty and freshness of the incomparable scenery. - -Near the bridge, leading a pack-mule, we met a soldier on his way to the -city for supplies for the small garrison in charge of the fort. Military -duty at this lone isolated station must certainly prove monotonous, as -from the bridge the only way to reach the fort is either on foot or -mule-back. The quietude of this peaceful valley, at the time of our -visit, was disturbed by a large force of native laborers who were laying -the pipes for the new city waterworks. - - - -VILLAGE OF PAPARA - -The village of Papara, the largest in the island, has been the -acknowledged stronghold of the Tevas for centuries. Here the powerful -chiefs of the clan have ruled their subjects with an inborn sense of -justice until their jurisdiction and, power were curtailed by foreign -intervention. For a long time the ruling house of the Tevas dominated -the social and political life of the island. It was at Papara that the -largest and most imposing marae was built, consisting of a huge pile of -stones in the form of a truncated cone, the ruins of which still remain -as a silent reminder of the political power of the Tevas lone before the -white man cast his greedy eyes upon this island paradise. - -The district of Papara, of which the village of about five hundred -inhabitants is the seat of the local government, is the most fertile and -prosperous of all the seventeen districts into which the island is at -present divided. Tati Salmon, son of Ariitaimai, the famed chiefess and -historian of the island, is the present chief. He was educated in -London, is highly respected by the foreigners and natives alike, and -owns about one-third of the island. He lives in a charming old-fashioned -house, the original part of which was built more than a century ago. The -house is situated at the mouth of a large mountain stream, and faces the -broad lagoon hemmed in by a coral reef, over which the surf dashes from -day to day and from year to year with the same regularity, with the same -splashing and moaning sounds of the waves as they leap from the restless -ocean beyond into the peaceful bosom of the calm lagoon. - -Papara, like all of the native villages, is located on the circular road -familiarly known as the ninety-mile drive. The road from Papeete to -Papara, a distance of twenty miles, leads through the most picturesque -and interesting part of the island. The road is a genuine chaussee, -constructed at great expense by the French government, and is kept in -excellent repair. For the most part it follows the coast in full view of -the lagoon and the ocean beyond, and, for more than one-half of the -distance, the smaller volcanic sister island, Moorea, is in sight. The -mountains are constantly in sight, ceaselessly changing in their aspects -with distance and change of perspective. The narrow strip of coast-land -is covered with a thick layer of the most productive soil upon a -foundation of rock and red volcanic earth. Vegetation everywhere is -rampant and extends from the very edge of the lagoon to the naked -pinnacles of the mountains. In many places the road skirts the -foot-hills, and at different points the precipitous mountains rise from -the bed of the lagoon, where the road-bed had to be made by blasting -away a part of their firm foundation of volcanic stone. - -The traveler on the whole trip is never without the companionship of the -branchless, slender, graceful cocoa-palms, with their terminal crown of -giant leaves, clusters of blossoms, and nuts of all sizes and stages of -maturity. A stately forest of cocoa-palms like those found on the coast -of Tahiti is a sight that can not fail to interest and fascinate the -Northerner fresh from zero weather, snow and ice. The straight, columnar -trunks, with their sail-like terminal fronds and clusters of fruit in -all stages of development from the blossom to the golden yellow of the -ripe nut, are objects of study and admiration which create in the -visitor a strong and lasting attachment for the tropics. There is no -other spot on the globe where the tourist can see larger and more -beautiful palm forests than on the circular road between Papeete and -Papara. The cocoa-palm is queen here, as there is no other tree among -its many neighbors that has succeeded in equaling it in height. The -lofty, proud head of the palm has no competitor; it is alone in that -stratum of air and looks down upon the plebeian trees beneath with a -sense of superiority, if not of scorn. For miles this road passes -through magnificent forests of cocoa-palms, with a heavy undergrowth of -guava, extending from the shore high up the foot-hills and -mountainsides. The cocoa-palm is fond of salt water and thrives best -when its innumerable slender, long roots can imbibe it from the briny -shore. - -The pandanus tree is even more partial to a soil impregnated with salt -water. On this drive this tree is frequently seen, and in preference at -the very brink of the coast, with the butt-end of the trunk high in the -air, resting on a colonnade of numerous powerful, slightly diverging -roots. Another tree omnipresent on this drive is the pauru tree, with -its large leaves and charming cream-yellow, salver-shaped flowers. This -tree loves the dark, shady jungles, where its tortuous branches mingle -freely with the dense undergrowth and climbing plants. - -The views that present themselves on this drive at every turn are simply -bewitching and vary with every curve of the road. The gentle ocean -breeze that fans the flushed face of the raptured traveler is lost when -the road leaves the coast and plunges into a primeval forest, when - - Gradual sinks the breeze - - Into a perfect calm; that not a breath - - Is heard to quiver through the closing wood. - - THOMSON. - - - -As the carriage emerges from the dark shades of the forest into the -dazzling sunlight in full view of the near-by ocean again. - - The winds, with wonder whist, - - Smoothly the waters kiss'd, - - Whispering new joys to the mild ocean. - - MILTON. - -Every turn of the wheel on this winding road brings new delights. The -views of mountains and ocean, the strange trees and flowers, the -childlike natives and their dusky, naked children, the quaint villages, -the turbulent mountain streams and the diminutive cataracts and -waterfalls, framed in emerald green on the mountain-sides, enchant the -eye and stimulate the mind every moment. These little waterfalls have -excavated the hardest rocks and have chiseled out, in the course of -centuries, crevices and caves of the strangest designs. - -The floral wealth of Tahiti is immense. Mr. McDaniel, of Los Angeles, -Cal., during a several-months' visit to the island, analyzed and -classified two thousand different kinds of plants. Some of the flowers -are gorgeous, others yield a sweet perfume which is diffused through the -pure air, imparting to it the balmy character for which it has become -famous. An acquaintance with these flowers suggests: - - Were I, O God, in churchless lands remaining, - - Far from all voice of teachers or divines, - - My soul would find, in flowers of thy ordaining, - - Priests, sermons, shrines. - - SHAKESPEARE. - -At a sudden turn of the road a vista is disclosed that defies -description. In the open roadway, brilliantly illuminated by the noonday -sun, in the distance, a flame-tree, with its flowers of fire, dazzles -the eyes, and its grandeur and beauty increase as we approach it, while, -in a few moments, what appeared as an apparition is behind us, and the -tension of vision is relieved by a long, restful look over the limitless -expanse of the blue sea. I have seen the flame-tree in different -countries, but the sight of this one, with its magic surroundings, made -a picture of exquisite beauty which forcibly recalled the lines: - - The spreading branches made a goodly show, - - And full of opening blooms was ev'ry bough. - - DRYDEN. - -The numerous villages of land-crabs met on this drive afford amusement -for the stranger, unfamiliar with this inhabitant of the coast in the -tropics. The land-crabs have evidently a well-organized government in -each community. Among the most important officials are the sentinels, -who are always on duty, when the inhabitants of the village have left -their underground habitations, to give timely notice of impending -danger. With the approach of man, the whole colony is on the alert. As a -matter of safety, the land-crab does not stray far away from its -subterranean home. When these animals are out in the open they are never -caught napping. Their large, exophthalmic eyes are never idle, and the -instant danger threatens they speed to their place of safety. If you -have enough patience to wait, you will find, sooner or later, two large -staring eyes on a level with the hole where the animal disappeared. The -land-crab is cautious, constantly on the lookout, and, on the first -signal of danger, makes a rush for his or somebody else's hole. - -A short distance from Papeete is a truck garden managed by Chinamen. -This enterprise, the only one I noticed on the drive, demonstrates well -what the soil of Tahiti is capable of producing in the way of growing -vegetables. It is an ideal vegetable garden, weedless, and verdant with -all kinds of vegetables. The foreign population of the city is supplied -from here with lettuce, asparagus, cabbage, sweet potatoes, carrots, -onions, turnips and melons of the choicest quality. The natives have no -use for vegetables and make no attempts to raise them for the market. -The guava shrub is found everywhere. It has infested the country, -weed-like, and its golden fruit is not appreciated by the natives; only -a very small part of the fruit is gathered for making jelly, one of the -few articles of export. - -This is the part of the island where the vanilla-bean is most -extensively cultivated. A vanilla plantation is a jungle in which the -bean thrives best. In the thick woods all along the road, the climbing -bean is seen trailing up the shrubs and trees, often to a height of -twenty feet. At the time of my visit the blossoms had disappeared and -the green beans had reached a length of about four inches, half their -length when they are ripe. A patient and prolonged search made for a -flower was finally rewarded by the finding of a belated bud which, on -being placed in water, expanded into a flower during the night, -affording me an opportunity to study its anatomy. - -Three small villages, Faaa, Punaauia and Paea, are passed on the way -from Papeete to Papara, and, like all other villages, each of them had -its own government school, a Catholic and a Protestant church, and, -connected with these, two parochial schools. The compulsory education -introduced into the island applies to children from six to sixteen years -of age. The churches are well attended, but I was informed by a German, -who has resided in Tahiti for thirty years, that the people attend -service more as a matter of amusement than with any intention of -obtaining spiritual benefit. - -Nearly all of the village shops are kept by Chinamen, and it is needless -to say that these shrewd foreigners take undue advantage of the simple, -trusting natives, in all of their business transactions. Much of the -hard-earned money of the natives finds its way into the capacious -pockets of these enterprising Orientals. - -We reached Papara toward evening, and, when we came in sight of the -chiefery, were deeply impressed with the beauty of the location. Palm -trees, flowering shrubs and garden flowers adorn the spacious grounds in -front and all around the ancient mansion which is perched on an elevated -plateau adjoining the large and beautiful stream of crystal mountain -water, and facing the placid lagoon. An immense double war-canoe was at -anchor in the river. It is now used as a fishing-boat by one of the sons -of the chief, when he desires to catch the bonita outside of the lagoon. -It takes seven men to manage this giant canoe, by means of paddles. - -In front of the wide veranda of the one-story house is an ornamental -tree which spreads its branches at least twenty feet in all directions. -As it was in full bloom at the time of my visit, it added much to the -beauty and comfort of the immediate surroundings in front of the house. - -The rooms of the mansion are large, and brimful of local antiquities and -old furniture imported from Europe, which impart to them a coziness and -charm which have been greatly appreciated and gratefully remembered by -many a welcome visitor. It is in a house like this, presided over by the -chief of Papara and his charming family, that one can experience what -genuine, unselfish hospitality means. - -Twelve servants, men and women, take care of the house, the family and -the visitors. Most of these were born on the place, and some of them, -very old now, were in the service of the grandfather of the present -chief. The relation between master and servants in this house is a very -pleasant one. The servants are looked upon and treated rather as -relatives than employes. Their pay is small, but they are given all the -comforts of a home. - -Word had been sent ahead from Papeete announcing our visit, for the -purpose of securing for us the rare pleasure of partaking of a genuine -native dinner. A little pig was roasted underground, and chickens were -boiled in the milk of the cocoanut, exquisite dishes, which, with -excellent coffee, French bread, and a variety of luscious tropical -fruit, made up a dinner which it would be impossible to duplicate in any -of the large cities of the continents. - -The village of Papara is a most interesting place to visit. Besides the -magnificent scenery, one finds here many native huts, and the town hall -is a large, airy structure, built of bamboo sticks and covered with a -thatched roof. Near the village are the grotto and cave, which enjoy a -local reputation, and are well worth seeing by the visitor. - - The sun's rim dips; the stars rush out: - - At one stride conies the dark; - - With far-heard whisper o'er the sea; - - Off shot the spectre bark. - - COLERIDGE. - -The day had been hot and sultry. From a cloudless sky, the tropical sun -shot down, without mercy, his arrows of heat, against which the lightest -and most porous headdress, umbrella, roof and shade afforded but -inadequate protection. Man and beast were listless, perspiring, careful -to make no unnecessary exertion. The green, succulent foliage bowed -under the oppressive heat, and even the gayest of the flowers drooped -their proud heads in homage to the fierce king of the serene blue sky. -The very atmosphere quivered in convulsive movements, and the intense -light, reflected from the surface of the sleeping ocean and the white -city, dazzled and blinded those who ventured to go out into the streets. -The little capital city of Papeete, nestled on the plateau between the -harbor and the foot of towering mountains, half hidden among the tropic -trees, was at rest; market and streets deserted, business houses closed, -and the wharf silent and lifeless. The numerous miserable curs in the -streets sought shelter in the shade, lying in a position affording most -perfect relaxation, with protruded, blue, saliva-covered tongues, -fighting the heat by increasing the respiratory movements to the utmost -speed. The numerous half-wild pigs in the streets, with paralyzed tails -and relaxed bristles, buried themselves as deeply as possible in the -nearest mud-pool, and with eyes closed, submitted passively to the fiery -rays of the midday sun. The roaming chickens, from bald chicks a few -days old to the ruffled, fatless veterans of questionable age, suspended -their search for rare particles of food with which to satisfy their -torturing sense of hunger, and simply squatted where the heat overcame -them, in the nearest shady place, there to spend the enforced siesta -with bills wide open and the dry, blue tongues agitated by the rapid and -violent breathing. The birds of the air ceased their frolic; their song -was silenced, and they took refuge in trees with thickest foliage. Men, -women and children, rich and poor, merchant and laborer, were forced to -suspend work and play, and seek, in the shadow of their homes or near-by -trees, protection against the onslaught of the burning rays of the sun. -Such is the victory of the sun of the tropics. He demands unconditional -surrender on the part of every living thing. He knows no compromise, as -he is sure of victory as long as his victim is in a favorable strategic -position. This was the case on the day of which I speak. As the rays of -the sun became more and more oblique, and the invisible great fan of the -land-breeze was set in motion, wafting down from the high mountain peaks -a current of cool air, the city woke up from its midday slumber. The sun -had lost his fiery power. He was retreating from the field of combat, -and approaching in the distance the rim of the placid ocean. The monarch -of the day, so near his cool, watery couch, laid aside his mask of fire -and smiled upon the vanishing world with a face beaming with happiness -and peace. - - The sun was set, and Vesper, to supply - - His absent beams, had lighted up the sky. - - DRYDEN. - - It was an evening bright and still - - As ever blush'd on wave or bower, - - Smiling from heaven, as if naught ill - - Could happen in so sweet an hour. - - MOORE. - -The last act of the retiring monarch of the day revealed his -incomparable skill as a painter. He showed discretion in the selection -of the time to demonstrate to the best advantage his matchless artistic -skill. He chose the evening hour, when the soul is best prepared to take -flight from earthly to heavenly things. He waited until man and beast -had laid aside the burden and cares of the day, and were in a receptive, -contemplative mood to study and appreciate the paintings suspended from -the paling blue dome of the sky. - -He waited until he could hide himself from view behind the bank of -fleecy clouds moving lazily in the same direction. Then he grasped the -invisible palette charged with colors and tints of colors unknown to the -artists of this world, and seized the mystic, gigantic brush when - - The setting sun, and music at the close. - - As the last taste of sweets is sweeted last, - - Writ in remembrance more than things long past. - - SHAKESPEARE. - -The time for this magic work was short. The moment the passing clouds -veiled his face it began. From the very beginning it became apparent -that the hidden artist exhibited superhuman skill. The most appreciative -and scrutinizing of his admirers felt powerless to comprehend and much -more to give a description of the panoramic views which he painted with -such rapid succession on the sky, clouds and the dull surface of the -dreamy, listless ocean. With intense interest we watched the constantly -varying, artistic display, felt keenly the shortcomings of human art, -and realized, to the fullest extent, the force and truth of - - Who hath not proved how feebly words essay - - To fix one spark of beauty's heavenly ray. - - BYRON. - - - -All painters place the greatest importance upon a proper background for -their pictures in order to give light and shade a strong expression. So -does the sun. With a few strokes of the magic brush, the deep blue of -the horizon was wiped out and replaced by the palest shade of blue, so -as to bring forth, in bolder relief, the resplendent colors on the -moving canvas of the clouds. The artist fringed the margins of the -clouds with delicate lace of shining gold. Through clefts and rents in -the clouds the smiling face of the painter peeped upon the beautiful -evening beyond. His work had only begun. In rapid turns the clouds were -converted into a sheet of gold with a violet border that deepened into a -vivid crimson hue. As the artist disappeared, inch by inch, under the -limitless expanse of the ocean, he wiped out the brilliant colors on the -canvas of clouds, and gilded the horizon with a sheet of gold, deepening -his favorite color, yellow, into an orange hue, which remained unchanged -until the approaching darkness threw a drapery of sombre black over the -inspiring scene. Twilight shuns the tropics. Day lapses into night -almost imperceptibly, and, with the setting of the sun, the earth is -wrapped in darkness. There is no compromise in the tropics, between the -rulers of day and night. With the disappearance of the last rays of the -sun, the pale blue dome of the sky is decorated with millions of -flickering stars, casting their feeble light upon land and sea through -the immeasurable ethereal medium which separates heaven from earth. - - The sun has lost his rage; his downward orb - - Shoots nothing now but animating warmth - - And vital lustre. - - THOMSON. - -On the evening of which I speak, the short twilight foreshadowed the -appearance of the heavenly advance-guard proclaiming the coming of the -Queen of Night. - - When the evening King gave place to night, - - His beams he to his royal brother lent, - - And so shone still in his reflected light. - - DRYDEN. - -Looking in the direction opposite from where the monarch of the day had -disappeared, the cloudless sky brightened over the bare gray -mountain-peak, and the stars, in joyful anticipation of the approaching -event, abandoned their stoic immobility and trembled in feverish -excitement. An impressive silence reigned in the little city, broken now -and then by the almost noiseless footsteps of half-naked, barefoot -natives, or the clattering of the hoofs of a horse and humming of the -wheels of a passing cart, and, once or twice, by the whirr of the only -automobile in the island, steered by an enterprising, prosperous French -merchant. - -Nature awoke from her noonday slumber, the glossy leaves resumed their -natural shape and freshness, the drooping flowers revived, expanded and -exhaled their fragrance, perfuming the evening air. The birds had found -shelter and protection for the night in the leafy domes of the many -beautiful shade and ornamental trees. It was solemn eveningtide, when -the heart of man is most receptive for noble and pure impressions. It -was the time to turn away the thoughts from the busy, selfish world and -reflect upon the wonders of creation. It was the time to look upward to -the calm, pale, blue sky, feebly illuminated by the soft light of -countless tiny lamps suspended by invisible cords from the limitless -space above. It was the time to look beyond earthly things. It was the -time to understand: - - The beauty of the world and the orderly arrangement of everything - celestial makes us confess that there is an excellent and eternal - nature, which ought to be worshiped and admired by all mankind. - - CICERO. - -We were speechless spectators of the passing and coming. Our thoughts -were turned to the invisible hand that created the earth we inhabit and -all of the heavenly bodies, and which directs their movements with -infallible precision and unfailing regularity. We thought of things -incomprehensible to man, of things far beyond the grasp of the human -mind, of things known only to the Almighty Lord, Creator of all things -in heaven and earth. - -With our eyes fixed on the gateway of entrance of the Queen of Night, we -patiently awaited her arrival, anxious, however, to catch the first -glimpse of her beautiful face. No blare of trumpets or bugle call -announced her approach. She rose in the sky silently, resplendent in her -own magic beauty, and her charms are always sweetest when the nights are -calm and peaceful. She combined beauty with two of the most attractive -feminine virtues—modesty and gentleness. As we watched her regal -entrance into the sky, the golden arch assumed the deep yellow hue of -the precious metal it resembled, and, in a few moments, the pale rim of -her sweet face rose over the dark, bald mountain-peak, and ascended -slowly and majestically, higher and higher, away from earthly things, on -her journey through the pathless sky. This evening she appeared in -perfect glory, permitting us to look into her full, calm face. Her -consort, the sun, had just disappeared, leaving behind him a golden -crescent on the opposite horizon. She was following his pathway and had -taken possession of his throne for the night. The departing sun and the -ascending moon were in strange and pleasing contrast at the threshold of -that beautiful night. - - O! belle nuit! mit preferable au jour! - - Premier nuit a amour consacree! - - En sa faveur, prolonge ta duree, - - Et du soleil retarde le retour. - - DE MALFILATRE. - -The moon loves to reign in peace and quietude. She abhors the tumult of -the battle-field and the struggles of man for wealth and honor. She is -the friend of the wounded, the sick and the poor; and the guardian angel -of all those in need of repose. As she ascended heavenward, the rippling -ocean became a great mirror, a mirror worthy to reflect her beautiful -face. The soft, pale light streaming out from the silvery orb cast -phantom-like shadows in the forests, parks and streets. Solemnity -reigned supreme. - - On seas, on earth, and all that in them dwell, - - A death-like and deep silence fell. - - WALLER. - -Happy the people who respect and love the Queen of Night and her reign -of peace and rest! Charming Queen! Retard your journey, prolong your -peaceful mission for the well-being of your loyal subjects so much in -need of your calming influence and of your soft, soothing light! To such -petitions the goddess of the sky has only one inflexible reply: "The -universe is my kingdom, the earth you live in is only one of my smallest -possessions. I must remain loyal to all of my realms." - - - -This evening in Tahiti had another and still more sublime entertainment -in store for us, a spectacle which can be seen in perfection only in the -tropics, and, I imagine, Tahiti is the stage more perfect than any other -in the world for the display of one of nature's grandest exhibitions. -The soft light of the rising moon and the myriads of tiny, flickering -stars furnished the illumination; the mountains, forests, harbor and -ocean, the stage. We were roused from our reverie by distant peals of -thunder. Looking in the direction whence these reports came, we saw -black, angry clouds hovering about the mountain-peaks to the south and -east of Papeete. The clouds were too heavy for the rarified mountain air -and soon began to descend slowly but steadily until they wrapped the -towering summits in a cloak of sombre black. The mountain-peaks, which -but a short time before were caressed by the gentle, silvery light of -the moon, were now completely obscured. Where did these clouds come -from? No one could tell. No one could mistake their movements. They -appeared to have had only one object in view, and that was to embrace -the mountain-range well below the tree-line. Smaller clouds, fragments -from the main mass, moving more swiftly in the evening air, impelled by -the land-breeze, floated away from the dark wall enveloping the -mountainsides, which seemed to possess some subtle, magnetic power -buried in the Immense piles of volcanic rocks. At short intervals, great -zigzag chains of lightning shot through these dark clouds, momentarily -lighting up the dark, unbroken, primeval forest. These dazzling, -blinding flashes of lightning were in strong contrast with the soft, -tropic moonshine that remained outside of the limits of the aerial sea -of clouds, which had commenced to discharge a drenching rain. Fleecy -little wandering clouds now flecked the horizon, strangely and variously -painted by the moonlight, shortly before the midnight hour. Through -fissures in these fleeting, snowy clouds, the moon and stars often -peeped at the grand spectacle which was being enacted on the stage -below. Lightning and thunder came nearer and nearer with the approach of -the weeping mass of clouds. The bolts of lightning must have found their -marks with unerring precision in the crags and forest underneath the -roof of dense clouds, as from there came at short intervals deafening -peals of thunder reverberating through the calm evening air far out over -the surface of the sleeping ocean, where the reverberations died out in -a faint rumbling. - -This majestic but awesome sight was of short duration. The pouring rain -relieved the clouds of their abnormal weight, and, balloon-like, they -rose, clearing the mountain-range, which then again made its appearance -in the soft, bewitching moonlight of the tropics. Lightning and thunder -retreated with the disappearance of the clouds. The atmosphere was cool -and refreshing, purified by the pouring rain and the furious electric -storm. At this stage of the nightly display in our immediate vicinity, -in front of the veranda of the little hotel, in full view of the now -deserted stage, from the clear, cloudless sky, gigantic drops of rain -fell, sparkling in the magic moonlight like diamonds that had become -loosened and had fallen from the jeweled crown of the Queen of Night, -whose throne had then reached the zenith of the horizon. - -Instead of wishing for an encore after such a brilliant act given by -nature's artists, we took one more and last look at the serene, smiling, -full face of the moon, and were then prepared to acknowledge reverently: - - What else is nature but God, and divine reason, residing in the whole - world and its parts. - - SENECA. - -IORANA! - -The South Sea Islanders have beautiful words of welcome with which they -meet the stranger. The Samoan greets you with _talofa_; the Hawaiian, with -a clear, musical voice, welcomes you with _aloha nui_; and the Tahitian, -with an open, friendly face and a smile, when he meets you, addresses -you with that beautiful greeting, _iorana_. These euphonious words mean -more than the words of our language intended for the same purpose; they -come from the heart and are addressed to the heart much more so than our -"Welcome," "How do you do?" "How are you?" or "I am glad to see you." -These Polynesian words are not only words of welcome, but carry with -them the best wishes of the natives for the stranger; they signify not -only a formality, but also express a sincerity which is so often lacking -in our conventional meetings with friends and strangers. The visitor who -remains long enough in Tahiti to become acquainted with the natives will -find that their greeting, _iorana_, is verified by their actions. The -natives, educated and ignorant, young and old, are polite, friendly and -hospitable to a fault. They are fond of making little gifts to -strangers, and if these are reciprocated, they are really and honestly -grateful. The people are charming, the island beautiful, and nature's -storehouse never empty of the choicest that the sea can supply and the -soil can produce. Any one who has seen Tahiti, the Island Paradise, on -leaving it, and ever after, in recalling his experiences and -observations in this island of peace, rest, charms and pleasures, will -give expression to his feelings by repeating to himself. - - Isle of Beauty! - - Absence makes the heart grow fonder: - - Isle of Beauty, fare thee well! - - BAYLY. - -THE END - -ADDENDA - - TAHITI - - The waves that touch thy pebbly beach - - With soft, caressing hand; - - The scented breezes winging past - - Above thy favored land; - - The brilliant flowers, the glowing fruits, - - Close to thy bosom pressed, - - All, all are singing one sweet song, - - Whose soft refrain is, Rest! - - The sunset brush that tints thy skies - - With wondrous, varied rays; - - The birds that fill thy woodland haunts - - With music's roundelays; - - The sparkling streams meandering through - - Thy valleys ever blest. - - All, all are breathing one sweet song. - - Whose soft refrain is, Rest! - - The twilight hour that floods the soul - - With waves of perfect calm. - - Then gives us to the Queen of Night, - - Who pours her soothing balm; - - The still lagoon with coral reefs - - Where beauty makes its nest. - - All, all are breathing one sweet song. - - Whose soft refrain is, Rest! - - O Isle of Beauty! poets may - - Dip pens in wells of light, - - Or soar aloft on Fancy's wings - - In wild, aerial flight; - - But they can never voice thy charms, - - O Island of the Blest! - - Whose very air is perfumed with - - The fragrance rare of Rest! - - O Isle of Beauty! artists may - - Coax every varied hue, - - To lay upon the canvas wide - - A portrait true of you; - - But till they borrow heaven's power - - To paint thee. Island Blest, - - The task is vain, O Land of Peace, - - Whose every breeze sings Rest! - - Where man knows all the blissful charm - - Of care-free, deep content; - - Where life seems one long holiday - - In childish gladness spent; - - Where earth and air and sea and sky - - So close to God seem pressed; - - Ah, loath am I to turn from thee. - - Dear Land of Perfect Rest! - - MARY E. GRIFFIN. - - - -THE STORY OF ARIITAIMAI OF TAHITI[1] - - I wish peace, and any terms prefer - - Before the last extremities of war. - - DRYDEN. - -In one of the far-off isles of the South Seas, in the garden-spot of the -Pacific, in golden Tahiti, about the year 1848, when Victoria was a -young queen and mother, when France was in the throes of a second -revolution, when the United States, a young republic, was still on trial -before the old world, there was enacted one of the most touching dramas -history has ever recorded, and this among a people considered savages by -the so-called civilized world, and almost unknown until discovered -through the missionary fervor of a few priests. The place, a small -island, only a speck on the map; the _dramatis personæ_, France, England -and America, the hereditary chiefs of a people who for forty generations -had known no other rulers, a weak, vacillating native queen, and a -noble-hearted native woman who knew how to be at the same time a loyal -subject, a skilled diplomat, and that rarer and more beautiful thing, a -faithful friend. If you would hear a story of friendship pure and -undefiled, listen to the story of Ariitaimai of Papara, a Tahitian of -noble birth, a child of Nature in its wildest and grandest aspect, -rocked in a gigantic cradle of sea, sky and towering mountains, in a -land of palm forests, where Nature has provided everything necessary to -the life of her children, and where the pearls are the purest. If Cicero -had known the story of Ariitaimai he would not have written in _De -Amicitia_: "But where will you find one who will not prefer to -friendship, public honors and power, one who will prefer the advancement -of his friend in public office to his own? For human nature is too weak -to despise power." But to understand this thrilling and eventful drama, -we must listen first to the chorus reciting something of the history of -this strange people, and of the position of woman in a land where -suffrage societies are unknown, and where the story of the inequality of -the sexes had never been told by book or priest. Tahiti, Matea and -Moorea are known as the Windward Islands of the Society Group in the -South Seas. The Leeward Islands comprise the four kingdoms, Huahine, -Borabora, Raiatea and Tahaa, together with some smaller islands, and are -about one hundred and twenty miles from Tahiti. But it has always been -in Tahiti, the gem of the Pacific, that the interest has been centered, -and it was here that the struggle took place between the English and the -French for supremacy in the South Seas. - -It was in 1769 that Captain Cook entered Matavai Bay on his first voyage -to observe the transit of Venus. This spot is marked by a stone monument -and has been known ever since as Point Venus. At this time Cook -estimated the number of inhabitants at two hundred thousand. To-day, -after the long contention between the French and English for supremacy, -after the brave struggle of the natives against both for independence, -after all the ravages made by the diseases introduced by foreigners, and -after years of a fearful mortality caused by the enervating effect of -civilization upon a people suited only to be children of Nature, this -goodly number has been reduced to a pitiful eleven thousand. In fact, -our so-called nineteenth century civilization has succeeded in -practically exterminating a people who could produce a pearl among -womankind, a rare and tender soul, such an one as English history does -not give us, and France has produced but one, her own Jeanne D'Arc. - -The government of the island has always been by chiefs and chiefesses, -no distinction of sex being made in laws of inheritance, the eldest born -inheriting the rank and estates and all the authority which the title of -chief conveys. Many of the chiefesses appear to have been exceedingly -warlike, true Amazons, contending with neighboring chiefs for more -authority and extensive possessions. Even as wives of the chiefs, women -went to war to help fight the battles of their husbands and clans. It is -reported of one of the Pomares who was of a peaceful disposition that in -one hotly contested encounter he fled to a neighboring island, leaving -his wife Iddeah to face the storm. History says that she was a great -warrior and carried the contest to a successful issue for her husband -and their possessions. It is recorded of another chief that he was not a -warrior and left the active campaigning to his wife. So it will be seen -that in the political life of Tahiti sex was not considered. Accident of -birth settled the title, and the warlike spirit miade the warrior, -whether it resided in chief or chiefess. England took a hand in the -island politics at a time when one of the weakest and most unpopular -chiefs was warring for the supremacy, and by assisting and upholding his -authority prolonged one of the most disastrous wars in the history of -Tahiti. The Tahitians detested tyranny and the insolence of a single -ruler, and in their tribal system of chiefs had a protection against -despotism which the foreigners, by their advocacy of the cause of a -special chief, afterwards Pomare I., destroyed. - -Before the invasion of the English, the hereditary chief of each -district held absolute sway in his own province. Questions of common -interest were settled in the island councils by majority vote, and it -was in these deliberations that the chiefs of Papara had for generations -held the balance of political power. Politically, the change was -disastrous. In olden times whenever a single chief became arrogant and -threatened to destroy the rest, all the others united to overthrow him -and thus re-established the political equilibrium. - -Ariitaimai belonged to the Clan of Tevas, of the chiefery of Papara, and -the family of Tati. She belonged to the clan which was ruled by Opuhara, -the last of the heathen chiefs who went down in the conflict with Pomare -II., who with the help of English guns was made absolute monarch of the -island. This conflict between Opuhara and the English, because Pomare -was only an instrument in their hands to accomplish the conquest of the -island, is responsible for the bitter hatred of the genuine natives for -the foreigners and the missionaries. - -Opuhara was considered the greatest warrior and hero of the Tevas, and -his death, the result of a stratagem on the part of Pomare and the -English missionaries, is considered by his people a veritable -assassination. He fell by a shot fired by a native missionary convert. -Tati, one of the under-chiefs of Papara, had been persuaded by the -English to approach Opuhara to negotiate with him for submission. But -Opuhara turned on him with scorn. "Go, traitor," he said; "shame on you! -you, whom I knew as my eldest brother, I know no more; and to-day I call -this my spear, 'Ourihere,' brotherless. Beware of it, for if it meet you -hereafter, it meets you as a foe. I, Opuhara, have stood as Arii in Mona -Temaiti, bowing to no other Gods but those of my fathers. There I shall -stand to the end; and never shall I bow to Pomara or to the Gods forced -on us by the white-faced man." With Opuhara perished the last hope of -the native patriots to preserve a government of chiefs. His dying words -were all that was left to his clan of the glory and power of Papara. "My -children, fight to the last! It is noon, and I, Opuhara, the _ti_ of Mona -Temaiti, am broken asunder!" He fell a martyr to his belief in the -heathen gods, and in the ancient inherited rights of his people: a -tribal government. His followers have always firmly believed that -Opuhara would have won the contest had not the missionaries brought -their guns along with their Bibles. - -It was this belief that Ariitaimai inherited with the beautiful lands of -Papara. She says in her memoirs: "I am told that Opuhara's spear, -'Brotherless Ourihere,' is now in the Museum of the Louvre. Even in -those days there were among all his warriors only two who could wield -it. If the missionaries have sometimes doubted whether the natives -rightly understood the truths and blessings of Christianity, perhaps one -reason may be that the Tevas remember how the missionaries fought for -Pomare and killed Opuhara." - -Marama, the mother of Ariitaimai, was a celebrated chiefess in her own -right, the sole heir of Marama, the head chief of Moorea, the nearest -island to Tahiti. She was a great heiress, and the last representative -of the sacred families of these two islands. She was given in marriage, -as a political compromise and at the special request of King Pomare, to -Tati's son, the head chief of Tahiti. It was also agreed that all issue -of the marriage should become the adopted children of Pomare, according -to an ancient Tahitian custom. The family is a great institution in -Tahiti and any one whose parents both by birth and adoption had been -carried to the family Marae with offerings to the gods, enjoyed a rare -social distinction. This Ariitaimai could claim, so from her birth she -was looked upon by the islanders as an especially favored and -much-to-be-treasured maiden. It may be that this great respect shown -towards her by the entire people did much to mold her character. The -Tahitian mother has little to say in regard to the training of her -first-born, as this one is considered to belong to the family as a -whole, and all questions of general interest are settled in family -council. And so it was with Ariitaimai. She saw little of her mother, -but was in constant touch with the family chiefs from whom, no doubt, -she learned lessons in diplomacy, and from listening to their councils -she acquired that rare good judgment which fitted her later to be the -accepted advisor of her teachers. She mastered both the French and the -English languages, and her memoirs show a wonderful knowledge of the -literature of both countries, as well as a wide and comprehensive -reading of classical authors. While Ariitaimai was growing to womanhood, -the pride and special care of the chiefs of Papara, another maiden was -receiving equal care and attention on a neighboring island. Aimata of -Raiatea, the daughter of Pomare II., was only nine years old when her -father died and she was given into the care of the head chief Uata, who -was a good and learned man. - - - -These two young girls who were destined to play such an important rôle -in the history of their country, grew up under much the same influences -and developed characters as widely different as the antipodes. They saw -each other only occasionally until Aimata's mother sent one day for -Ariitaimai to make a long visit at the royal castle, as was the custom -among the islanders, as Pomare had claimed her as his adopted daughter -according to the ante-natal contract. Here blossomed and grew the -friendship which was destined later to save to Pomare IV. her throne, -and to deliver Tahiti from a war which could only have resulted in the -extermination of the native population and the destruction of the island -as an independent government. The real struggle between France and -England for the possession of the island began in 1836, when two French -priests landed at Tahiti to convert not the pagans to Christianity but -Protestant Christians to the Roman faith. Aimata now become Pomare IV., -promptly ordered their arrest and expulsion. The French priests made a -protest to their government and Louis Philippe sent a frigate to -Papeete, the harbor city, with an ultimatum, and the Queen was obliged -to yield. The English consul and the missionaries contested the -occupation of the French, and another frigate was sent to Tahiti. Queen -Pomare now appealed to Queen Victoria and offered to submit to a British -protectorate. She also sent a protest to the government of the United -States, against allowing the French to forcibly occupy Tahiti. But the -English Queen was busy with more important home affairs, and neglected -the appeal from the little island so far away, and the protest to the -United States was apparently ignored. By a lack of appreciation of the -Queen's communication, the United States lost the control of the gem of -all the Pacific isles, and lost also a rare opportunity to aid and -protect a brave people in their struggle for independence. This attitude -of England and the United States left the contest to be settled between -the natives and the French. After a desultory war lasting over four -long, miserable years, with the advantage first on one side and then on -the other, the French government decided to end the matter and sent two -frigates to the island. The government had offered previously to this to -place Pomare permanently on the throne under a French protectorate, but -she would not consent to this, looking constantly for help from the -English who had done so much for her father. So she left Tahiti, the -scene of the contest, and fled to Raiatea to her own family for -protection, while waiting for the help which never came. - -Ariitaimai, in her own beautiful home at Papara, pondered over the -wretched state of her beloved country and her heart was sore both for -her idolized friend and poor bleeding Tahiti. Was there no way out of -this Slough of Despond into which the foreigners had plunged her unhappy -country? She knew the temper of the island chiefs and that they had -sworn to die fighting for the independence of their country. She -remembered the fate of Tati, who had been branded a traitor with -Opuhara's last breath because he counseled submission to the English, -and she dared not propose to them any compromising measures. She looked -out despairingly over the trackless sea, and appealingly up at the -towering mountains which had been her companions during prosperity and -adversity, but no answer came to her anxious questionings. Then -suddenly, one day, word was brought to her by an old woman of her clan -that two French frigates had landed in the harbor of Tahiti. She knew -this meant the end, unless Queen Pomare could be persuaded to return to -Tahiti and accept the offer of the French. The old crone who had brought -her the news said to her: "Don't you know that you are the first in the -Island, and that it remains in your hands to save all this and your -land?" Then Ariitaimai hesitated no longer, but hastened to the governor -and told him what she had heard. He replied: "You have heard the truth. -The colonel commanding the troops has heard of so many instances of -insult given to the French that we have decided at last to go out and -finish up the affair." This brusque answer aroused in Ariitaimai all the -stored-up energy of years. She became immediately the diplomatic -representative of her people, and begged the governor to give her a few -days that she might see the chiefs and make at least an effort to avert -the terrible havoc to lives and property which this would cause. -Ariitaimai was well known to the governor, and although evidently amused -that a young woman should take upon herself this difficult task, readily -consented. Like two generals they sat down and talked over all the terms -of the peace; the governor agreeing to restore Pomare to her throne if -she would return immediately, and to leave the chiefs in possession of -their estates and control each of his own chiefery, all to be under the -protection of the French flag. This, he said, they were willing to do, -although the Queen had broken her written agreement with them, and by -deserting her country and throne had absolved them from all obligations -to her. Before the conclusion of the interview Ariitaimai had won the -respect and admiration of the governor, and from that time on they -worked together to bring about a peaceable settlement of the long and -disastrous war. The journey which she was obliged to make in order to -meet the chiefs in council was a long one, and while she was making her -preparations the governor's own aid-de-camp arrived ready to accompany -her, bringing the governor's horses and all necessary passports. She -says in her memoirs: "I knew that my influence with the natives would be -sufficient to save us from any trouble with them." Arrived at last at -the principal native fort where the chiefs were assembled, her first act -showed her the accomplished diplomat. She sent a trusty messenger for -Nuutere, the one whose influence against peace she most feared, and who -with the other chief, Teaatoro, practically controlled the situation. -When he came out to see her she took him by the hand and said: "My -object in coming here is to bring peace, and I have counted on you for -the sake of old friendship to be my speaker in this trying instance." -She quaintly adds: "He was very much perplexed at this," evidently not -understanding why she could not speak for herself as she had often done -before. But to her surprise Ariitaimai found the old chief very much -broken in spirit and quite ready to listen to her arguments for peace, -and she soon had his promise to speak for the acceptance of the -governor's proposition. Human nature is very much the same the world -over, whether encased in a brown skin or white. Nuutere called Teaatoro -to him, and, after a hasty consultation, came over and whispered to -Ariitaimai that Teaatoro would be all right. This practically settled -the matter, but as in all political assemblies the usual formalities -must be gone through with and Nuutere called upon each one of the chiefs -for his opinion. The speakers all teemed with love and admiration for my -heroine and I can not refrain from making some quotations. Nuutere, -after stating the object of the meeting, called upon Teaatoro to make -the first speech. He said: "We are all as one person in this meeting, -and we have suffered together as brothers. We have heard what the object -of this lone woman's visit amongst us is, solely for our good and that -of our children. What can we say to this? We can only return her one -answer, which is to thank her for the trouble and danger she has taken -upon herself, for the peace she has brought, and she must return to the -French commander with this our answer. We have been five months on the -point of starvation. We lost a great many of our men at Tamavao. The -best of our blood was spilled at Mahaena. At Piha-e-atata, our young men -were slain. Our Queen left us in the midst of our troubles without the -least sorrow for us. We have heard no more of the help which was -promised us by Great Britain." Another chief rose and said: "Ariitaimai, -you have flown amongst us, as it were, like the two birds of Ruataa and -Teena. You have brought the cooling medicine of vainu into the hearts of -the chiefs. Our hearts yearn for you and we can not in words thank you; -you have brought us the best of all goods, which is peace. You have done -this when you thought we were in great trouble, and ran the risk of -losing our lives and property. Your people will prove to you in the -future that your visit will always remain in their memory." The old -chief of her own district turned toward Ariitaimai and said only: "As -you are my head, my eyes, my hands and my feet, what more can I say? -What you have decided we accept and will carry out." One dissenting -voice only was heard, a young chief who had but lately come into his -possessions and was anxious to distinguish himself as a warrior. He -called out in a loud voice: "Why have you decided upon this peace so -soon? Tahiti is not broken asunder. We could play with the French until -we could get aid of Great Britain, who has formally promised to help us -through in this war. I think you have all done wrong." But the young man -had his lesson to learn and it was promptly taught him by Ariitaimai's -spokesman. The spirit of young America is not appreciated in Tahiti, -where reverence for age and worship of the ancestors is a vital part of -the native pagan religion. Nuutere turned on the young man and asked: -"Where were you, that consider yourself such a fighting man, in the -fights which have already happened? I have never perceived you ahead of -the others. You do not excel the youngest of our men in all of these -battles. What are you known as in the annals of the country which allows -you to get up and speak when your chiefs have already given the word?" -Ariitaimai set out immediately on her return trip, this time escorted by -ten of the chiefs. Although they made all possible haste the time had -already expired before they reached the governor's headquarters, and -preparations were being made to attack one of the native forts, the -officers having concluded that her errand had been a failure. The -governor, seeing her at a distance, rode out to meet her and helped her -from her horse. He asked her anxiously in Tahitian, "Is it peace?" and -she replied that it was peace and that everything was all right with the -chiefs. He held her hand as he said with great feeling: "The Tahitians -should never forget you; but your work is not finished. You must now go -to Raiatea and bring us back the Queen." So Ariitaimai started on her -second and more difficult errand. At first Queen Pomare refused to -receive her, sending word that she was told that she had gone over to -the French; but later she granted her an interview in which she cried -very much, upbraiding her friend for the stand she had taken, and -accusing her of betraying her interests to the French. - -The Queen then sent for the chiefs of her own family with whom she had -taken refuge, and, after a prolonged conference, they advised her not to -return. She said to Ariitaimai: "I trust to the word of Great Britain, -who has promised us to send ships and men to fight our cause and to keep -us an independent state, and I will not return and be under the French." -So after repeated pleading poor Ariitaimai was obliged to return to the -governor with Pomare's answer. He was much disappointed but said as the -chiefs of Tahiti had agreed to peace and as he had nothing to do with -the chiefs of Raiatea they must decide on another monarch, and offered -to make Ariitaimai queen of Tahiti in Pomare's place. But this the -faithful friend would not listen to, and begged the governor to allow -her again to see Pomare, as she believed that when she had had time to -think the matter over she would change her mind. To this the governor -very reluctantly consented, as he was entirely out of patience with -Pomare, and would much have preferred to make Ariitaimai queen, which -could have been done with great propriety, as she was at that time the -head chiefess of the island. After a stormy trip she arrived again at -Raiatea and this time was fortunate enough to find her friend Aimata -alone, the chiefs having gone to an assembly to consult over the affairs -of their own island. This time our faithful ambassadress did not hasten -her visit. She renewed and strengthened the ties of friendship which had -bound them together since their early girlhood, and she records in her -memoirs that they had a beautiful visit together before any mention was -made of the real object of her coming. The charming way in which she -speaks in her memoirs of Pomare's flight shows the tenderness of her -affection for her friend. She says, calling her by her girlhood name: -"The unfortunate Aimata had troubles of every sort, domestic, political, -private and public, until at last the missionaries English and French, -fought so violently for control of her and the island that she was -fairly driven away." With all her acuteness and learning in other -matters, she seems to have had no realization of the true character of -the woman she so beautifully idealized. She still saw in the Queen the -qualities she loved in the young girl, and her affection blinded her to -the defects in her friend's character which entirely unfitted her for -the position she occupied. Events do not move as rapidly in Tahiti as in -America, and our young diplomat, having the governor's promise to await -her return, took her own time. She remained with the Queen two months -and had the satisfaction of returning home with her promise to sail for -Tahiti as soon as her favorite schooner Ana could be made ready. But, -before sailing, another idea took possession of the unreasonable woman -and she sent word to the Tahitian chiefs that as the English had brought -her to Raiatea she would return only in an English ship, and demanded -that one be sent to fetch her. - -This unexpected and preposterous demand plunged poor Ariitaimai into the -deepest grief. For the first time a note of complaint of her friend -appears in her memoirs. The French governor laughed at the demands of -Pomare and again offered the throne to Ariitaimai, and argued long to -prove to her that it was her duty to accept it. Where in history is the -woman who would not now have felt that she had exhausted all the demands -of friendship, who would not by this time have been tempted by the -dazzling prospect of a throne, upheld by a powerful governor who had -become her devoted friend and admirer, to be surrounded by chiefs who -had already accepted her leadership, and who, for years, had held her -position among them as chief ess as a sacred trust? But no ambitious -dreams disturbed the clear judgment of this simple-minded woman. She had -set herself a task and her only ambition was to accomplish it. Not for -one moment did the loyal woman waver in her devotion to her friend. She -refused absolutely to entertain a thought of the queenship, and retired -to her country home almost in despair. She says very simply in her -memoirs: "We then remained at home in great trouble and did not know -what was to be done next. The governor on several occasions offered to -make me the sovereign of the island in place of Pomare, which, however, -I could not entertain." It is in this simple and childlike manner she -describes all the events in this perplexing situation. Not by one word -does she anywhere intimate that she is doing anything extraordinary or -praiseworthy or more than her simple duty. - -She was not allowed to remain long inactive. Word came to her that the -governor and chiefs were getting very restless and impatient at the -unsettled state of the island politics and had decided not to negotiate -further with the Pomares; and, moreover, that a document to this effect -had been already drawn up and practically agreed upon. This roused her -again to see the governor; and this time Fate put a powerful weapon in -her hands. Just as she was leaving her home an old native preacher came -along and secretly gave her a letter from her beloved Aimata. She wrote -that she was sorry that she had not come back when she promised, that -she was much distressed at the news from Tahiti, that she was an unhappy -woman and, if not too late, she would surely come back if her faithful -friend would come for her. Happy Ariitaimai fairly flew to the governor. -What after all if it should be too late! She had never gone to the -governor with so much fear and trepidation, and her fears were in no way -lessened by his reception of her request that she be allowed to go once -more to Raiatea and make a last effort to bring back the Queen. This -request for the first time irritated the governor toward her. He said: -"Have you not done enough for the Pomares that you should continue to go -down to fetch them?" and he showed her the document which she had heard -of but which was much worse than she supposed, as it proposed to break -up the act of protectorate that had been already made and distinctly -stated that as Ariitalmai had refused to be made queen he would make the -island a French colony at once. But with that precious letter in her -bosom she would not be thwarted in her purpose, and did not leave the -governor until she had received his very grudging permission to see -Pomare and, if she consented to return, to take her to Moorea and let -him know. With this she was obliged to be contented. More she could not -accomplish without divulging the secret of her letter, and this, she -argued, would be disloyal to her friend; for was it not a secret letter -sent to her at great risk? No, she would accomplish her purpose without -humiliating her Queen. Pomare should return at the request of the -governor without losing aught of her queenly dignity. - -And now this little drama draws rapidly to a close. Ariitaimai made her -third trip to Raiatea and accompanied Pomare to Moorea, and sent word to -the governor that he would find them there. Obedient to this gently -expressed command of his ambassadress, the governor very courteously -went to Moorea in person to receive the Queen and bring her back to her -home and throne. In the same dispassionate style Ariitaimai tells of the -homeward journey: "As we all went on board a salute was fired. We sailed -around the island, flying the protectorate flag at the fore, to inform -the people of these islands that their Queen had returned. We then -continued our route for Papeete and on arriving there the forts from the -shore saluted the flag." But O! the irony of Fate! As they entered the -harbor what a sight met the eyes of the poor Queen! Both British and -American ships were anchored there, having come at last in answer to her -appeals, but only in time to see her placed on her throne by the grace -of the hated French, But peace had been bought too dearly to be broken -now even by this vacillating queen, and the British and American -officers, seeing the situation, had the good sense to assist in the -general festivities celebrating the long-looked-for peace. The memoirs -conclude with this simple statement: "The Queen remained several hours -on board the steamer as the governor wished the natives to see that the -Queen had really come back. There were soldiers in line on shore to -receive us and we were conducted to the governor's house. The peace of -the island was then decided upon. On arriving at the governor's house we -found all the commanders of the troops and vessels there and before them -I was thanked by Governor Bruat for what I had done for my country." - - When a world of men - - Could not prevail with all their oratory - - Yet hath a woman's kindness overruled. - - SHAKESPEARE. - -[1] This chapter is the product of the fertile pen of Dr. Lucy Waite. -Surgeon-in-Chief of the Mary Thompson Hospital, Chicago. - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TAHITI; THE ISLAND -PARADISE *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part -of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project -Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG™ -concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, -and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following -the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use -of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge anything for -copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is very -easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation -of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project -Gutenberg eBooks may be modified and printed and given away--you may -do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected -by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark -license, especially commercial redistribution. - -START: FULL LICENSE - -THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE -PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK - -To protect the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting the free -distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work -(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase “Project -Gutenberg”), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full -Project Gutenberg™ License available with this file or online at -www.gutenberg.org/license. - -Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project -Gutenberg™ electronic works - -1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg™ -electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to -and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property -(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all -the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or -destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in your -possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a -Project Gutenberg™ electronic work and you do not agree to be bound -by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the -person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph -1.E.8. - -1.B. “Project Gutenberg” is a registered trademark. It may only be -used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who -agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few -things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg™ electronic works -even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See -paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project -Gutenberg™ electronic works if you follow the terms of this -agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg™ -electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. - -1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation (“the -Foundation” or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection -of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works. Nearly all the individual -works in the collection are in the public domain in the United -States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the -United States and you are located in the United States, we do not -claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, -displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as -all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope -that you will support the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting -free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg™ -works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the -Project Gutenberg™ name associated with the work. You can easily -comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the -same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg™ License when -you share it without charge with others. - -1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern -what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are -in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, -check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this -agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, -distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any -other Project Gutenberg™ work. The Foundation makes no -representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any -country other than the United States. - -1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: - -1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other -immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg™ License must appear -prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg™ work (any work -on which the phrase “Project Gutenberg” appears, or with which the -phrase “Project Gutenberg” is associated) is accessed, displayed, -performed, viewed, copied or distributed: - - This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and - most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no - restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it - under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this - eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the - United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where - you are located before using this eBook. - -1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is -derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not -contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the -copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in -the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are -redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase “Project -Gutenberg” associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply -either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or -obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg™ -trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is posted -with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution -must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any -additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms -will be linked to the Project Gutenberg™ License for all works -posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the -beginning of this work. - -1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg™ -License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this -work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg™. - -1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this -electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without -prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with -active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project -Gutenberg™ License. - -1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, -compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including -any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access -to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg™ work in a format -other than “Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other format used in the official -version posted on the official Project Gutenberg™ website -(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense -to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means -of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original “Plain -Vanilla ASCII” or other form. Any alternate format must include the -full Project Gutenberg™ License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. - -1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, -performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg™ works -unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. - -1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing -access to or distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works -provided that: - -• You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from - the use of Project Gutenberg™ works calculated using the method - you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed - to the owner of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark, but he has - agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid - within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are - legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty - payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project - Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in - Section 4, “Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg - Literary Archive Foundation.” - -• You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies - you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he - does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg™ - License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all - copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue - all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg™ - works. - -• You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of - any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the - electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of - receipt of the work. - -• You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free - distribution of Project Gutenberg™ works. - -1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project -Gutenberg™ electronic work or group of works on different terms than -are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing -from the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of -the Project Gutenberg™ trademark. Contact the Foundation as set -forth in Section 3 below. - -1.F. - -1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable -effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread -works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project -Gutenberg™ collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg™ -electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may -contain “Defects,” such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate -or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other -intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or -other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or -cannot be read by your equipment. - -1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the “Right -of Replacement or Refund” described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project -Gutenberg™ trademark, and any other party distributing a Project -Gutenberg™ electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all -liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal -fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT -LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE -PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE -TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE -LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR -INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH -DAMAGE. - -1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a -defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can -receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a -written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you -received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium -with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you -with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in -lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person -or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second -opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If -the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing -without further opportunities to fix the problem. - -1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth -in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you “AS-IS”, WITH NO -OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT -LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. - -1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied -warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of -damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement -violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the -agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or -limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or -unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the -remaining provisions. - -1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the -trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone -providing copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in -accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the -production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg™ -electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, -including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of -the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this -or any Project Gutenberg™ work, (b) alteration, modification, or -additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg™ work, and (c) any -Defect you cause. - -Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg™ - -Project Gutenberg™ is synonymous with the free distribution of -electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of -computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It -exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations -from people in all walks of life. - -Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the -assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg™'s -goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg™ collection will -remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project -Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure -and permanent future for Project Gutenberg™ and future -generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see -Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at -www.gutenberg.org - -Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation - -The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit -501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the -state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal -Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification -number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by -U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. - -The Foundation's business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, -Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up -to date contact information can be found at the Foundation's website -and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact - -Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg -Literary Archive Foundation - -Project Gutenberg™ depends upon and cannot survive without -widespread public support and donations to carry out its mission of -increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be -freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the widest -array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations -($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt -status with the IRS. - -The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating -charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United -States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a -considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up -with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations -where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND -DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular -state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate - -While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we -have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition -against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who -approach us with offers to donate. - -International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make -any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from -outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. - -Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation -methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To -donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg™ electronic works - -Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project -Gutenberg™ concept of a library of electronic works that could be -freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and -distributed Project Gutenberg™ eBooks with only a loose network of -volunteer support. - -Project Gutenberg™ eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in -the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not -necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper -edition. - -Most people start at our website which has the main PG search -facility: www.gutenberg.org - -This website includes information about Project Gutenberg™, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. |