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diff --git a/old/69922-0.txt b/old/69922-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 97ee8b7..0000000 --- a/old/69922-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3267 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Dairying exemplified, by J. Twamley - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Dairying exemplified - or, The business of cheese-making, the second edition corrected - and improved - -Author: J. Twamley - -Release Date: February 1, 2023 [eBook #69922] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Charlene Taylor, Krista Zaleski and the Online Distributed - Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was - produced from images generously made available by The - Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DAIRYING EXEMPLIFIED *** - - - - - - -Dairying Exemplified. - - - - - Dairying Exemplified, - - OR - - The ~B U S I N E S S~ of - - CHEESE-MAKING: - - Laid down from approved Rules, collected - from the most experienced Dairy-Women, - of several ~C O U N T I E S~. - - Digested under various Heads. - - From a Series of Observations, - during _Thirty Years_ Practice in the - _CHEESE TRADE_. - - By _~J. T W A M L E Y~_. - - The SECOND EDITION, Corrected & Improved. - - - WARWICK: - - Printed for the AUTHOR by J. SHARP, and Sold by - MESSRS. RIVINGTON’S _St. Pauls Church Yard_, and - J. TAYLOR, No. 56 _Holborn_, LONDON, 1787. - PRICE TWO SHILLINGS. - - - _Enter’d at Stationer’s Hall._ - - - - -PREFACE. - - -If a Dedication, or Introduction to the following Work should be -thought necessary, I most humbly, and justly address it to the -excellent DAIRY-WOMEN, of _Great Britain_; duly sensible, that from -them I received the first hints that led me to the performance, -and without whose assistance and encouragement, joined with my own -knowledge and experience, I should never have offer’d it to the Public. - -The real design of this Work, is to assist those who are not fully -acquainted with the most proper methods, necessary to be used in the -management of a DAIRY; I have made it my endeavour to render every -part as plain and intelligent as possible, and am in hopes upon a due -Observation of the rules laid down many will find their account in it. -It is my sincere wish, that it may be a means of improving the quality, -as well as enlarging the quantity of CHEESE, through the Kingdom; and -become extensively useful to the community in general. - -As the Publication of this Work has met with a very ready sale, & been -much approved of in general, and many who have carefully apply’d the -rules for Dairying therein laid down, have deriv’d great advantage from -it, which the Author has by many, been inform’d of; encourages him to -print a second Edition, and having omitted the other treatises upon -_Orchards_ and _Vegetation_, in order to bring the price more moderate, -hopes that, will cause it to be more read by DAIRY-WOMEN, who if they -pay a due attention to it, cannot help receiving benefit from the -advice it contains. - - - - -[Illustration] - - - - -Dairying Exemplified, _&c._ - - -It has been the wonder of many People, who are interested in the -Article of Cheese, either as Makers or Dealers; that no Treatise or -Book of rules, or method of making Cheese, hath ever been attempted; or -the business of it examined, so as to direct those who are concerned -as Dairy-women, or have the chief management in Dairys, to become -proficients therein. - -The great number of inferior Dairys there are, in comparison to the -few, that are excellent in their kind, or even what are called good -Dairys; every person who is much concerned in the Cheese Trade, is well -convinced of; and ’tis evident to a nice observer of the different, -yea, very different qualities of Cheese produc’d in different Dairys, -or even in the same Dairys, when either the Dairy-maid is changed, or -the usual method of Cheese-making, by the Mistress or manager of each -Dairy, is not strictly adhered to. A Remedy for this great deficiency -is looked upon as an affair of great moment, especially by those, -whose lot it is to be fixed in the Cheese Trade in a considerable -Dairy Country, where large quantities of Cheese, are annually bought; -and where, was Cheese-making in equal repute, or the real quality -of Cheese, equal in goodness to some neighbouring Counties, a much -larger quantity would certainly be made, and what would be a great -encouragement both to the makers and buyers of it, a better price would -be procured for the same Article, and a much readier Sale, than when of -an inferior quality. - -Besides which, it is very clear that many People do not, for want of -a proper method, make near so much Cheese, from the same quantity of -Milk, as others do; or as even themselves might do, if a more proper -method was pursued. These considerations, having always been clearly -apparent, have from time to time, and as oft as an opportunity of -attaining any knowledge, in the business of making good Cheese hath -offered; led the Author of the following Treatise, to collect, weigh, -and investigate every particular circumstance leading to improve the -said art, or business; and hath enabled him from time to time, to -assist, and help many, by his advice and directions, to rectify and -amend many faults, and deficiencies, in the method, they followed; -and many have by such directions, greatly improved their Dairys. -And from constant experience and seeing the improvements, and the -effects produced from every different method practised or explained, -by such as he found most experienced, or best informed, for the space -of Thirty Years and upwards, he never fail’d to avail himself; this -hath constantly led him to scrutinize into the real cause, of every -impediment, or fault, in the method of making Cheese, from the first -step, or Milking the Cows, to the compleating or removing the Cheese -for Sale. And to point out a remedy to each complaint upon rational -principles, as far as they appear to him, and are confirmed by the -opinion of others, who have been in the way of making observations -of the same nature, and who give every encouragement to the Author -to make such improvements Public, for the general good. I am well -acquainted, how unthankful an office it is, to attempt to instruct or -inform Dairy-women, how to improve their method, or point out rules, -which are different from their own, or what hath always been practised -by their Mothers, to whom they are often very partial, as having been -esteemed the best Dairy-women of their time, and even when they have -imperceptably alter’d their method, by shortening the time in gathering -the Cheese, which is a term generally given for collecting the Curd at -the bottom of the Tub or Pan, after the runnet or rendless has done its -duty, or by putting a larger quantity of runnet into the Milk to hasten -the coming of the Cheese, which alteration, though often not observed -by the Dairy-maid, or Mistress, is of very material importance, and is -what I shall endeavour to explain, in as concise a manner as possible. -I doubt not, the same reflection will occur to the minds of some few -on reading my Book; as hath often done upon occasion, when I have in a -Dairy, met with any particular impediment in their Cheese, which the -Dairy-woman would fairly acknowledge she could not account for, and -hath tried every means she could think of to rectify without success; -saying, what does he know of Dairying, or how should a Man know any -thing of Cheese making? - -But let these remember, that I have had frequent opportunities, of -consulting the best of Dairy-women, in many Counties, who I knew from -experience did know how to make good Cheese, and in order to have it in -my power to inform such as did not know how, I have taken great pains, -to inform myself, as many now living, in both situations can testify. - -The principal faults that cause these difficulties to Dairy-women are, -Hove Cheese, Spongey, full of Eyes, Whey Springs, Jointed or Shook -Cheese, Split Cheese, Loose Cheese, or Cheese made of unsettled Curd, -Rank or strong Cheese, Flying out or Bulging at the Edges, Dry cracks -or Husky Coated Cheese, Blistering in the Coat, Blue-Pared, or Decayed -Cheese, Sweet or Funkey Cheese, Curdled or sour Milk Cheese, and -sometimes ill Smelling Cheese, from tainted Maw-skins, from distemper’d -Cattle, or some other cause, which by a strict observer may be -accounted for. Before a certain cure can be found out or applied, you -must be acquainted with the nature, and cause of the complaint, or if -by any accident, you hit upon a remedy, it may perhaps be a partial -one, or such as will not answer at all times, or in all Dairys, by -reason the complaint is from a certain fixt cause, and which cause will -at all times and in all places produce that effect; when perhaps, the -remedy apply’d may only be proper in some particular Dairys, owing to -Herbage, very rich Pasture or very Poor, to Clover ground, or ground -given to Noxious Weeds, Plants, or Trees, which the Cows eat of; each -of which if not known or considered will produce a different effect, -some of which effects may be similar in appearance to complaints in -other Dairys produced from different causes, the knowledge of which -will be of great use, to every Dairy-woman, or maker of Cheese to know, -as the operation of the work, or management and care of the Cheese when -made, must necessarily fall to their lot. - -What relates to Pasturage; or the quality of Land for Grass, the -produce of the Land regarding Plants, Weeds, or Grass of different -kinds, falls more immediately under the eye or care of the Master, or -Farmer of the Land; and from observing from time to time, the state -of the Dairy, the Taste of the Cheese, so far as it may be affected -by any particular Herb, Weed, or Grass; the situation of the Cheese -in the Dairy-Chamber, how it is affected in different Seasons by -Heat, Cold, Damp or Dry Weather, to know what are the causes of many -general faults, or complaints in Cheese, such as Heaving, Splitting, -Jointing, Whey-Spring, Ill Formed, or Sweet Cheese, which often, when -any of these happen in a Dairy, are produced by one general cause, and -frequently go through the principal part of it, proceeding from the -same neglect, or mismanagement. These difficulties or deficiencies, -it is proper a Master should be acquainted with, as it often, I may -say, too often happens, the Mistress leaves the care of the Dairy to -Servants, especially the putting together the Milk, preparing the -Runnet and putting it into the Milk, the standing of the Milk till it -becomes Curd, and breaking or gathering it after it is come; which is -generally done by some common rule or method they have been used to, -the method used by a former Mistress perhaps, who might be esteem’d -a good Dairy-woman, and very likely undertook the management of the -Dairy herself; or at least so far as the essential part of the work -extended; paying a particular regard to the time of the operation -of the Runnet, in bringing the Cheese, or of gathering the Curd, -fixing, or setting it after it is come; each of which require a minute -exactness, and the principal error, or misfortune in Cheese making, -is owing to these operations being too hastily performed, not giving -time enough for the different effects to take place; for if due regard -is paid to making good Curd, you will very easily make good Cheese; -few people in any business make good Goods of bad Materials, tho’ many -of the most ignorant, when provided with good Materials, prepared for -that purpose, will finish them in a Workman-like and Masterly manner; -so will many a Dairy-maid, make very handsome Cheese and take care of -it, till it comes to be very good, and so as to give credit to the -seller, as well as the vender of it, that has no consistent idea how -the Runnet operates, or perhaps of the different states of the Curd, -in its various stages, or even when it is in a proper state to begin -the part of the work which usually falls to her share, of Breaking, -Vatting, and preparing it for putting in the Press, which former part -should be the care of the Mistress, or at least of some Person who -does understand it, to prepare the Curd for them. The business of a -Dairy, is of a considerable importance, and is in some Places, half, -or nearly the whole income, or produce of a Farm. The difference is so -great between a very good Dairy-woman, an inferior one, and a very bad -one, as would surprise, even a judicious observer, and the following -observations, which flow from what have happened in my own walks, -will be apt to strike conviction on the minds of many, who have never -applied their thoughts to the Theory of Dairying. The general way that -the art of Dairying has been carried on for Ages, has been progressive, -or traditional, being taught by Mother to Daughter, from common and -continual experience; naturally adopting from time to time, the methods -that appear’d best from such as have happened to come within their own -knowledge; without ever calling in the assistance of either Philosophy, -by which they might learn the different qualities, and effect of -materials they use, or knowledge, how to apply them in a Physical, or -Practical manner. And although the Author of this Treatise, is very -conscious of the deficiency of his own knowledge; yet has great hopes -that from the desire of making himself useful to community, with the -assistance of reason and common sense, he shall be able to render -some assistance, to those he wishes to serve. A kind providence hath -provided for all our wants; Nature, as Nature, is compleat in all its -parts; we, often in trying to improve it, distort, or throw it into -confusion; our Ideas being inadequate to the attempt. Where nature -points out, or leaves any open for improvement, in the use of any of -the common necessarys of Life, it is the duty of individuals to take -the hint, and endeavour to explain them for Public good. The present -System of Dairying, being in a very imperfect state, I am in hopes, -my endeavours to render service and improvement, will not be found -unnecessary. - -A Cow, may I think justly be stiled, the most useful of all Animals, -in regard to Man; Milk is a support to our Infancy and greatly -contributes both to our comfort and support through Life, not only -supplying our present wants, by that salubrious aliment, but our -future wants, not only at home, but abroad; by the Cheese and Butter -produced from it, it supplies us, even with many luxuries in our -taste, is a great support to weakly constitutions by its Veal, as -well as a great support in the Article of Provisions, afforded when -alive; when Dead, is to us the grand stamina of our Food, Beef, being -the most nourishing and agreeable repast; it not only supports us at -home, but supplies our Fleets, our Armies, our Garrisons and Islands -all over the World; its Leather, so useful for Shoes, for Implements -of Husbandry, for Travelling, and for innumerable Conveniences; its -Hair for our Buildings and other purposes; its Tallow for our Light at -Home and Abroad; its Horns and Hoofs, and even its very Bones for our -Implements, and various Materials of Trade. Were all its excellencies -enumerated; they would be very extensive. - -Milk, must be allowed one of its most useful productions; it is given -for our use in a pure, wholesome, and nutritive state; capable of -improvements, or alterations, of its nature, according to our different -wants. In the Article of Cheese, and Butter, a great deal depends on -the Art, Judgment, Care and Diligence of the Performer, and the good -or bad qualities of each, chiefly depend on the skill and industry of -the Dairy-woman. On a judicious observation you will find, that Milk -is generally found even at different Seasons, to be of a regular and -equal stamina, or quality, and in the same manner affected by different -fluxings; by Salts, Liquids, Spirits, &c. at all times; the business -of Cheese making, is a regular and constant proceeding, practised -perpetually, every Day, time immemorial; and it seems strange, that -when the ingredients you employ are so few, and their nature also so -exceeding regular, and certain, that there can be much difficulty, -in producing the Article of Cheese pure, and compleat; but daily -experience convinces us, that there is an amazing difference in the -goodness of Cheese, insomuch that you can scarce find two Dairys -that are exactly, or even very much alike; it does not occur to the -knowledge of every one what that difference is, but to a Person who -deals largely in it, and makes observations upon it, must plainly -appear; and though so few have ever attempted to scrutinize the nature -of Cheese, or particularly of Cheese making, in a manner that yields -conviction to its improvements; yet there is no reason, why that useful -branch of knowledge cannot, or may not, be clearly explained. - -The business has been in the hands of the Women hitherto, except in -_Cheshire_, _Wilts_, some part of _Gloucestershire_, &c. where a large -quantity of Cheese is made, a Man is employ’d as an assistant, the -weight of a large _Cheshire_ Cheese, being too great to be wrought by -a Woman, and turning, rubbing, washing, and cleaning, is more than -one Man can easily perform; ’tis common in large Dairys, to meet -with Cheeses, Eighty, one Hundred, one Hundred and Twenty, or even -one Hundred and Forty pounds a Cheese, which requires considerable -strength to manage. In some part of _North-Wiltshire_, I am informed -there are Dairys that make Twenty-five Tons in a Year; and some few -more than that. A Gentleman told me, that being lately at _Bath_, he -was informed of a Person within less then Twenty Miles, who Milk’d -200 Cows: Which led his curiosity to take a ride to see it, being a -considerable Factor, who had frequent opportunity of buying Dairys -of Four, Five, or Six Tons each; but had never met with any Dairy of -that extent. On hearing the recital of it, led me to the same thought -as would naturally strike him, viz. what sort of a House or Premises -the Person must have to cure, spread or dispose of such a quantity -of Cheese, to get it ready for Sale? When he came to the Place, he -found the report was true, but then he milked these 200 Cows at three -different Houses, in number proportionable to the convenience or -situation of the Place. We often hear talk of _Cheshire_ Dairys of -100 Cows each, which the largeness of the Cheese in a great measure -accounts for. But what are called large Dairys in _Warwickshire_, -_Leicestershire_, _Staffordshire_, or _Derbyshire_, is from 20 to 40 -Cows each; in these parts, from general observations I have made, -each Dairy may produce annually on an average three Hundred Weight -of Cheese from each Cow, taking the Dairys in general. I am inclined -to think more Dairys produce less than that quantity, than there are -that produce more; but this is observable, much the greater number -of Dairys, are on Tillable, or Arable Farms, where new Grass is -introduced, which is always allowed to make less Cheese than good -old Turf; and the proportion of up-land Farms, is much greater than -of low-land. I have weighed many times Four Hundred from a Cow, and -some few Dairys which have produced Five Hundred from each Cow; but -then in scrutinizing into the affair, I find it has been attended -with particular circumstances, such as being situate, in an excellent -Grass Country, where Meadows of dry Old Turf have been the Pasture, -where clear streams of running Water have gone through the Meadows, -affording always good Beverage for the Cows, as well as a cool retreat -for them in Hot Weather; by which means their Milk was kept in a -temperate state, while Cows on up-lands, perhaps scorched with heat, -and not having the nourishing stream to go to, or shade to protect -them from the Sun, cause their gadding, or running about to such a -degree, as prevented the increase of their Milk, in any proportion to -what the running stream produced; and throw’d the Cows into such a -heat and disorder, that their Milk would not yield near the quantity -of Curd, and caused many difficulties in making the Cheese, which the -cooler Dairys were not exposed to, (especially, when under the hand -of an unskilful Dairy-woman,) likewise, in these prolific Dairys, the -owner made a point of never keeping a Cow that was too old Milcht, or -Milk’d too long from the time of Calving, or when any Cow went off her -Milk either by any accident, or otherwise; then the Dairy-man always -replaced her with a new Milcht one, either drying the old Milcht one -for feeding, or disposing of her. That so the Dairy by that means was -kept in full vigour through the Grass Season. The number of these -Dairys is so very few and rare, they can only at most show the World -what may be done. I have been told by a _Wiltshire_ Factor, that the -Land in their principal Dairy Country, is so Rich and Good that it -is not very uncommon there for prime Dairys to yield five Hundred of -Cheese from a Cow; but then there is also every Advantage in their -Favour; such as (I believe no body who judgeth from the goodness -of their Cheese, but must allow) the best of Dairy-women, who have -been regularly bred to it from their Childhood, it generally being -almost the sole employ of the Farm, and those Dairy-women led on by -the greatest and most powerful emulation, of selling for the highest -Price. Their Cheese being generally sold, retail, at a penny, and often -two-pence per Pound, more than good Cheese in common. Their Cheese, -that is made in the prime of the Season, generally known in the country -by the name of _Marlborough_ Cheese, being much brought to Fairs by -_Marlborough_ Factors, or People residing not far from thence. Or in -_London_, by the name of _North Wiltshire_ Cheese, which always bears -the greatest Price of any Dairys, except those of _Gloucestershire_; -which, even the finest of _Barclay Hundred_, do scarce come up to: And -I believe by many judicious People, some of the _Wiltshire_ Dairys are -even allowed to excel. Likewise, in many very principal Dairys, they -have this great Advantage; where Gentlemen in some places, occupying -a large tract of Ground, or Lordship, either themselves, Stewards, -Bayliff, or some other Person for them, Stock the whole or chief Part -with Milking Cows, which they are very particular to get to come in, or -calve, by the Time Grass is in Vigour. Then these Dairy People agree -with them for the Milk of such a number of Cows, as they can manage at -a given Price per Week. The Gentleman, Bailiff, _&c._ engaging, that if -any Cow fails in her Milk before a given Time, that he will take her -away and replace her with a new Milcht one, by which means their Dairys -are always in full Power all Summer; and then they engage for the -Winter Dairy, at a Price proportioned to the state of the Cows, either -new, or old Milcht, by which means they are certainly enabled to make -a larger quantity of Cheese than any common Dairy, or Land of inferior -kind without these Advantages. And in many Dairys they make Cheese all -the Year, as the quantity of Winter Cheese, and Fodder Cheese, sent -to _London_ Markets clearly shews.--Much depends on the situation of -Dairy-ground, being nearer, or farther from the House, where the Cheese -is made, as Cows being driven any considerable distance to be Milked, -causeth the Milk to Heat in their Udders in Summer-time; Milking -them in the Field and carrying the Milk on Horse-back in Churns, or -Barrels to much Distance, I take to be still worse, as that perpetually -disturbs the Milk, inclining it to the nature of Churning Cream for -Butter, and the operation performed upon it, is quite of a different -nature, as it is for a different purpose or design, and if Milk is put -in a violent Motion by carrying, it makes it in some degree partake -of the nature of Churning, insomuch, that you often observe round the -Bung, Plug, or Stopple of the Churn, a Froth or Scum, work out by force -of Air, or Motion in carrying, that very nearly partakes of the nature -of Butter, which plainly shews that the Body of Milk, cannot be in a -proper State to make Cheese with, as Butter is produced by violent -Motion, and the making of Cheese from a state of Rest, being directly -opposite. I take it that oftentimes in very Hot Weather, the Milk in a -Cow’s Udder, much agitated by driving, or running about, is in a state -not very far different from that carried in a Churn, which frequently -makes the great difficulty in what is called bringing the Cheese or -fixing the Curd in the Tub, or Pan; I have often heard Dairy-women say -that ’tis sometimes very difficult to make it come at all, and instead -of one Hour, (the Time very commonly given by Dairy-women, in bringing -the Cheese,) that it will frequently not come in Three, Four, or Five -Hours; and then in such an imperfect state, as to be scarce capable of -being confined either in the Cheese-Vat or Press, and when released -from the Press, will heave, or puff up, by Splitting or Jointing, -according as the nature or state of the Curd happens to be. Whenever -People find their Cows in this situation which in Hot Summer Evenings -must often happen, especially, where Water is scarce, or in Grounds -where there is very little Shade; then it is, that making use of a -little cold Spring Water before earning, or rendling, is useful; as -that will make the Runnet take effect & the Milk coagulate much sooner. -It often happens, in some Dairys, that the Work is quite at a stand, -the Dairy-woman not knowing how to hasten the co-agulum, or coming -of the Cheese, thinks of putting more Runnet in, to forward it; but -the nature of Runnet being such, as will dissolve the Curd, in part -co-agulated, if more is put in; disturbs the whole, and prevents its -becoming Curd at all, or, in a very imperfect manner, remaining in the -Whey, in an undigested state that will neither turn to Curd or Cream, -and a principal part of the richest of the Milk is then cast away with -the Whey. Cold Water, with a little Salt, (as hereafter recommended) -will in a great measure prevent this difficulty. One great Point, or -Thing to be observed, in first setting off, or rendling the Milk, is -carefully to observe the state of the Milk, as to Heat or Cold; the -grand medium, or state it should be in when you put the Runnet into -it, is what may be properly understood, Milk-warm; if you find it to -be warmer than that, it is recommended, to put some fresh Spring Water -into it, in such quantity, as will reduce it to the Milk-warm state; a -Quart, Two, Three, Four or more according to the quantity of Milk to be -so cooled; many People may think Water will hurt the Milk or impoverish -the Cheese; experience shews it will not, but is a means of the Runnet -more immediately striking or operating with the Milk. I would recommend -the use of a Thermometer, to shew the degree of Heat Milk bears. I -doubt not one may be constructed on a very easy Plan, that will cost -a very little Money, and it will be very well worth while to be at a -small Charge, to regulate a fault, of putting Milk together too Hot, -which is of more ill consequence than People are aware of. The same use -holds good in putting Milk together for Butter; it is observed, that -Milk being set up too Hot, will not throw up Cream near so well, as -when in a temperate state, and causes it sooner to turn sour.[1] - -As soon as the Milk is reduced to a proper warmth, and before you put -the Runnet to it, it is an exceeding good way to put a handful or two -of Salt into the Milk, or three or four handfuls if your quantity is -large (I recommend about two handfuls to ten or twelve Cow’s Milk;) -this will also cause the Runnet to Work quick, and giving a Saltness -to the whole, will be a means of preventing Sweet, or Funkey Cheese, -as it will make the Cheese all Salt alike, be a means to prevent Slip -Curd, or Slippery Curd, make the Curd sink in the Tub more readily, -and equally.[2] If your Milk is too Cold, let some Milk be warmed and -put into it, to bring it to the state of Milk-Warm, observing not to -warm a small quantity to make it boil, as boiling alters the nature of -Milk in some degree; scalding Heat is thought to set the Curd, making -it Tough, that it is judged best, to warm a tolerable good quantity of -Milk pretty warm, that it may give warmth to the whole in a sufficient -degree. Sometimes you will find in Cold Weather, your Milk in the time -of earning, get Chill; I have known in such a case, a Person take a Tea -Kettle of Hot Water and put into it, with success; let it be when the -Curd is nearly, or pretty well come, as then the Hot Water will give a -Toughness to the Curd, to relieve it from the slippery nature it had -acquired by being Chill, and that Chilness continuing to encrease, it -is with difficulty you can bring your Cheese into a regular or fixed -state. It is a very common way with many Dairy-women to allow the Milk -to stand an Hour, in earning, or after the Runnet is put in, before it -is gather’d, or sunk; many I fear content themselves with thinking it -sufficiently come in less time, _But here_ lies the greatest mischief -in Cheese-making; the Milk is very often disturbed before its proper -time, and sometimes when the whole is in a state of Slip-Curd, or -Slippery Curd, which is a state all Curd is in, before it becomes solid -Curd, or Curd, fit to make Cheese with. You are always to observe that -the state in which it is when you first stir or disturb it, in that -state the Curd will remain; it never improves as Curd, or becomes -better Curd after it is disturbed or removed from its state of rest. - -You will generally observe, that when you sink the Curd in the Tub, -even when it is in a tolerable good state, as many imagine, there will -bits of Slip-Curd swim about in the Whey and not sink with the rest, -till the Whey is laden from it: That slip-Curd will not adhere to, or -join with the solid Curd, and though ever so well broke or separated, -yet in whatever state it is, when the Cheese is made, it all dissolves, -or melts; if a bit as big as a Nut happens together, it dissolves -into a Whey-Spring, runs out, and leaves a hole in the Cheese, which -always decays in that place; if a bit as big as a Pin’s-head happens, -it dissolves, and leaves an Eye in its place, and that is the cause of -Eyes in Cheese; if you cut the Cheese when young, you will find, that -there is a Moisture, or Wet, in every Place where the Eye is after it -is dried up, which Wet or Moisture is called Tears.[3] - -When a large quantity of slip-Curd is in a Cheese, ’tis a long Time -before it becomes hard, appearing always loose within; which, when the -Cheese is dry, on cutting, it appears like a Honey-comb. - -The thing that more Dairy-women err in, than any other, is gathering -or sinking the Cheese too soon. The rendling of Cheese, causeth a -very great Fermentation; there must be time given for the fixt Air in -Cheese, or Curd, set to work by the Runnet, to dissipate, expand, or -fly off. Runnet is a thing so powerful in its effect, as to have no -substitute yet found that can be used in its place; all Fermentations -remove or separate the fixed Air, from the different Bodies they are -connected with. - -The effect of Runnet on Milk is very great, and in order to thoroughly -fix the Curd, it must have sufficient Time to work, concrete, or -congeal the Curd into a solid Mass by extirpating the Air from it; if -you remove or disturb the Milk before its full Time, yet the Runnet -having begun its operation, though you do not give it Time to work, -by reason of hurrying it forwards, yet when it is again at rest, such -Air as hath not been separated, by breaking, squeezing or pressing, -will extend itself, and the Air will find a vent, or expand itself into -a greater compass than it was before confined in; and whether it is -in the Press, or after it comes out of the Press, will find a way to -discharge itself; many times to that degree, when in the Press, as to -even burst the Cheese-cloth it is wrapt in, if it is so confined that -it cannot escape by it. If it does not get discharged otherways, then, -as soon as the Press is let up, it will shatter the Cheese within to a -surprizing degree, and immediately cause the Cheese to heave, or puff -up, even in that state, which so separates the Curd in the Cheese, as -it seldom settles again, unless taken quite in Time, or before the Curd -is connected in the Press. A good way to prevent this disorder, of what -is called Cheese heaving in the Press, from taking a bad effect, which -complaint generally happens when the Milk is put together too hot, and -the Whey that comes from it, is left white (which it ought never to -be, for then you may be sure all is not right); when the Cheese has -first been in the Press an Hour or more, let the Press up and if you -find the Cheese swell, or blister, take a large Needle, or fine Skewer, -of Wood or Iron, and pierce it in many places to let the Air out; a -Pin is not so well, as Brass taints the Cheese, and it will appear of -a tainted brassy colour ever after: If you find when the Cheese comes -again out of the Press, that it still swells, or blisters, apply the -Needle again, and it may perhaps settle again so as to make a useful -Cheese; it will never be a good one, but will remain in the state -called loose Cheese or shook Cheese. Thus you may discern somewhat of -the nature of slip-Curd; every Dairy-woman should take care to become -as well informed of the different properties, its nature, cause of its -Formation, and manner of operating as possible, in order thereby to -avoid the many difficulties proceeding from it, which are more numerous -than all others, in the whole system of Cheese-making put together, -and have been by them, the least considered and examined. In order -to avoid many difficulties, and render you complete Mistress of the -first part of the work, which is a very material Crisis, take care to -be well informed of the nature of Maw-skin or Runnet-skin; it is very -proper every Dairy-woman should know how to prepare them for use, which -is very easily acquired; to know in what manner or to what degree it -should be salted, and how, properly dried, and take particular care -that you have the Maw fresh, not in a tainted or putrid state, you -may happen to have such a misfortune as to have it damaged either by -neglect, as to Time of preparing it, great heat of Weather, which -sometimes hurts our best and freshest Meat in a surprizing degree, -notwithstanding every care or caution taken to prevent it, or by the -Skin having any way taken Wet, or being Fly-blown; to many of which -mishaps the most careful Person, is sometimes exposed; any of which -quite alter the nature of it; being of a more particular construction -than any other thing, which must appear plain, when ’tis considered, -that you cannot substitute or apply any one Thing, in the Article of -making Cheese to a proper effect, or that will answer your purpose of -extracting Curd from Milk in order to make Cheese with, but Maw-skin; -and you will find that when the Skin is damaged or tainted, it looses -its fermenting quality considerably; that it will either not take -effect at all, or in a very partial and slow degree, and you will often -find Cheese made from tainted Maw-skin appear of a putrid, unsettled, -ill-tasted, discoloured nature, being affected in a different manner, -according to the degree of Putrifaction the Maw-skin has received. -Sometimes I have perceived the Cheese of a dusky black colour, not -fixt in its Texture, or become solid and close; sometimes, in Taste -resembling the flavour of tainted Beef or Mutton, when it comes to -your Table; sometimes it has the smell of rotten or addled Eggs, -sometimes of the most insipid or tasteless nature, which on enquiring -into the cause, could never be explained to me by the Maker. Sometimes -an ingenious, well-disposed Person, who wished for Improvement, or to -become acquainted with the nature or consequence of such complaint, -would hint to me, her fear was, the Maw-skin was damaged; tho’ I have -had some, who instead of being open to conviction, or that would pay -any regard either to my Opinion or Advice, would tell me that could -not be cause, for they always prepared their own Maw-skins, and no -one could be more careful to cure them properly, which was the reason -they always avoided buying Skins as much as possible, for fear of -that misfortune. All this care and precaution I doubt not was just, -as from the great care many People take of their Dairy in every other -respect, would be particularly cautious about their Maw-skins; but let -themselves judge, whether some of the afore recited causes, might not -happen to their best endeavours. When I have come to a place where the -Dairy-woman has informed me she has been deceived in her Maw-skins, -being then I thought on sure ground, or certainty of the cause, I -have been very careful to become acquainted with the real nature of -the ill effects produced in consequence thereof, and have always -found some of the evils before-mentioned, and could often judge from -the state I found the Cheese in, in what manner, or to what degree -it was affected thereby, and even so as often to convince the Maker -of it, that my Opinion was right. If at any Time this misfortune is -apparent to you, that some neglect, or mishap has taken place in curing -your Maw-skins, you will easily guess from which of the above causes -they spring; and perhaps in a course of Time, you may become well -convinced, that every one of these mischances do sometimes happen, and -as you must certainly be a better, or more competent judge of the real -nature of the complaints, (than any other Person can be from common -observation,) you will most likely, find other causes of damage, or -misfortune that happens in the process, more than I have enumerated; -and if any material one, it would be exceeding useful to have it made -Public, for the benefit of Society, or to warn those of the damage, -whose Business it is to supply the Market with Skins for Sale. When -you perceive any of your Skins have miscarried, that they are either -tainted, or otherways damaged, take particular notice how they appear; -in what respect they differ from perfect Skins, knowing, that the -like causes produce similar effects, and then if you are obliged to -buy Skins, you will be enabled to avoid buying such as have the faults -you are acquainted with. I have often been led, when in a Shop where -Maw-skins were on Sale, to examine them somewhat minutely, and could -perceive in some of them much difference; I have seen in the same -Skin sometimes, the appearance of very different qualities; I have -observed discoloured Spots on holding it up to the Light; I have seen -one part of a Skin of a well-coloured sound nature, another part that -had somewhat the look of rough Parchment, or hard Whit-leather; on -smelling, it has not appeared of the same nature, or relish, with the -rest; I have also observed Skins that have appeared quite tainted, and -even in a decaying state, and have seen Rendless after being made, -appear of a dusky blackish colour. A Dairy-woman should be acquainted -with these complaints, in order to avoid the difficulty that inevitably -accrues for want of that knowledge, and should frequently taste the -Runnet when made, that she may find out in Time if there is any thing -disagreeable attends it; for there is no making good Cheese with bad -Runnet. - -The Maw-skin, or bag of the Abomasus, is the Maw or Stomach of Calves, -that have fed on nothing but Milk, and are killed before the digestion -is perfected, it contains an Acid Juice called Runnet, Rennet, or -Earning, with which Milk is co-agulated, or rendered into Curd for -making Cheese; in the Maw the Chyle is formed, that causes this -co-agulum; but it greatly looses this effect, when Calves have fed -on Vegetable Food; the Maw of House-Lamb, I am informed will answer -the same purpose, but not of Grass Lamb. I have heard of a person who -Salted the Curd, or Crudity that was found in the Maw at the Time -the Calf was killed, prepared as the Maw-skin is, with good effect, -only used in a larger quantity. This may easily be tried by way of -experiment; I never heard of but one Person who used it, and she is -now dead; that prevented my enquiry about it. Since the above was -publish’d I am informed, that in the last Age, the principal part of -the Cheese was made from the Curd, of the Maw prepared with Salt, till -it was found the Skin was of a more clean and wholesome nature. It is -observable as an old Maxim, that although Runnet readily co-agulates -Milk, yet if put in when already co-agulated, it dissolves it. - -There are many ways of making, or preparing Maw-skins; the best and -most approved I ever met with is, as soon as your Maw is got cold, when -taken from the Calf (for ’tis known that salting Meat hot, in sultry -Weather, will make it taint,) let it be a little swilled in Water; some -People say ’tis better not to be clean’d at all, and the effect will -be greater, it coming nearer to real nature, and the reason given, -is this, ’tis the inside of the Maw that has the effect in Runnet, -and the chyle proceeding from it, the outside being little otherwise -than any other Entrail. Rub the Maw well with Salt, then fill it, and -afterwards cover it with Salt; some cut them open and spread them in -Salt, one over another in layers, and let them continue in the Brine -they produce, sometimes stirring, or turning them, for four, six, or -nine Months, as they can spare them, then open them to dry, being -stretched out with sticks or splints, that they may dry regularly; -when they are dry they may be used; though, ’tis reckon’d best to be a -Year Old before used, keeping them one Year under another. Do not let -them in drying, be too near a Fire; if heated too much, renders them -liable to reeze, (as Bacon will, when melted by heat,) and hurts their -quality, giving them a rancid taste; many People think, the Brine they -are prepared in, very useful in making your Runnet, putting it amongst -it as other Brine, with smaller proportion of Runnet. People differ in -their way of preparing Runnet or Rendless. Many will make it with Whey; -some will put in with the Whey, the Brine drippings that come from the -Cheese when in the Press. Both these I quite disapprove; Whey, having -already undergone purgation, fermentation, or separation of the Curd -from Milk, is more likely to become viscid, or gummy, acrid, or sharp, -or liable to putrifaction than a more pure element. Brine drippings -are of a gross foul nature, and may be deem’d, (if the expression -may be allowed) even the very excrements of Cheese-making, and what -ought never to be put in, in order to bring the Cheese, causing a rank -and foul smell as well as taste, I take it to be the worst of all -disagreeables. - -The way most approved by good Dairy-women, or such as have fallen -within my knowledge is this; take pure Spring Water, in quantity -proportion’d to the Runnet you intend to make; it is thought best by -some, about two Skins to a Gallon of Water; boil the Water, which makes -it softer or more pure, make it with Salt into Brine that will swim an -Egg, then let it stand till the heat is gone off, to about the heat of -Blood warm, then put your Maw-skin in, either cut in pieces or whole: -the former I should imagine best or most convenient; letting it steep -for twenty-four Hours, or two Meals, (so called in Dairying) and it -is fit for use, putting such a quantity into your Milk as you judge -necessary, for rendling your quantity of Milk into Curd; observing that -too much Runnet makes the Cheese strong and liable to heave, and is -what many People call, tastes of the Bull, or Bull Cheese (especially -when Brine drippings are put in.) Too little Runnet makes it very -mild, and must have more time to stand, before it is broke, or sunk: -The judgment required, in the quantity of Runnet, to be used must be -regulated by your own prudence, increasing or lessening it as you find -it necessary; ’tis often reckon’d, about a Tea-cup full, to ten Cows -Milk. If you make a quantity of Runnet together to keep for use, let -the same method be used, increasing the quantity of each material to -what you want, putting it in jars or bottles, till you want it. - -I have frequently heard Dairy-women mention putting in rose leaves and -spices of different kind into the Rennet at the Time of preparing it, -in order to give it a relish, and make the Cheese fine flavor’d. - -_Mr. Hazard_, in his Essay to the _Bath_ Society gives a receipt for -making Rennet after this manner; when the Maw-skin is well prepared and -fit for the purpose, three pints or two quarts of soft Water (clean and -sweet) should be mix’d with Salt, wherein should be put sweet briar, -rose leaves and flowers, cinamon, mace, cloves, and in short almost -every sort of spice and aromatic that can be procured, and if these are -put into two quarts of Water they must boil gently till the liquor is -reduced to three pints, and care should be taken that this liquor is -not smoaked; it should be strained clear from the spices &c. and when -found to be not warmer than Milk from the Cow, it should be poured -upon the Vell or Maw, a lemon may then be sliced into it, when it may -remain, a day or two, after which, it should be strain’d again and put -in a bottle, where if well corked, it will keep good for twelve months -or more, it will smell like a perfume, and a small quantity of it -will turn the Milk and give the Cheese a pleasing flavour--he farther -adds--after this, if the Vell or Maw, be salted and dried for a week or -two near the Fire, it will do for the purpose again almost as well as -before. - -A very material circumstance to be attended to in Cheese-making, is the -time allow’d for the Cheese coming, or from the time allow’d for the -Runnet to take effect, or the time when the Milk is at rest, called -earning time.[4] Which should on no account be less than an hour and -half; all that is stirred, gather’d, or sunk, in less time is liable -to danger. It may happen, and often does, that it will come sooner, -especially when the method I have recommended of putting Salt in the -Milk is used, and where care is taken to have the Milk of a proper -warmth, as in these cases the Curd co-agulates or collects sooner on -that account; I believe it will be found that the additional time given -will never be of any bad consequence, as the Curd then gets firm, and -on sinking, becomes more solid, and is easier made into Cheese, in less -time, and with much less trouble, than when stirred or broke sooner. -What is called sunk Cheese is always allowed to be the fattest; when -Curd is fully set, or fixed of a solid nature, by having time enough, -it will incline to sink to the bottom of the Tub, by the assistance of -the Hand to gently Press it down, gather, or collect it, and will soon -become of a solid nature; most People break the Curd, by stirring it -round several times with the Bowl, in order that it may be collected -together. Sinking, is performed by getting it down, or sinking with the -Hand, without breaking. - -In order to prevent a difficulty in getting the Whey to separate easily -when sinking the Curd, you may prepare a long Cheese Knife made with -a Lath, one edge being sharpened to cut the Curd a cross from top to -bottom, in the Tub, three or four different times crossing the lines, -checkerwise, by which means the Whey rises through the vacancies made -by the Knife, and the Curd sinks with much more ease. I have also known -a sieve used to facilitate or hasten the Curd sinking, with success, as -it gives an opportunity to lade off the Whey clear from Curd, gets the -Curd down much easier and saves time. - -When all the Curd is got firm at the bottom of the Tub, by pressure -of the hand, let all the Whey be taken from it; then let it stand -one quarter of an Hour for the Curd to settle, drain, and get solid, -before you break it into the Vat; if any bits of slip-Curd happen to -be swimming in the Whey, that does not sink with the rest, it had -better be put away with the Whey, than put to the Cheese, as it will -not cement or join with the solid Curd, and all slip-Curd, as before -observed, dissolves or melts, so that it is a detriment to Cheese when -ever put in; many People, as soon as the Whey is removed, immediately -break the Curd small as possible, and then put it into the Cheese Vat, -for finishing. I would always recommend that it rest one quarter of an -Hour, before ’tis broke, or vatted; the Cheese would be much better for -it, as the Air would more easily separate, and prevent its puffing up -under your hand, when squeezing in the Vat, and also prevent the Fat -squeezing out, as it often does through your Fingers; which being so -much broke, occasions, and certainly it must make your Cheese, both -leaner and lighter. I have consulted many good Dairy-women, on the -Article of breaking Cheese, and find, ’tis the most general method to -break the Curd as small as possible, when put into the Vat; but what -makes that more absolutely necessary, is, there being slip-Curd amongst -it, and that never appears to embody, or join with the rest, unless -broke and thoroughly mixed; and even then I am fully convinced is of no -use for the reason above given; although I have laid it down as a rule, -never to stir or gather the Cheese in less than an Hour and half, many -of the best Dairy-women I have ever consulted, generally let it stand -two Hours; by which time the Curd is got to be of so firm a nature, as -to render the breaking of it at all absolutely needless, it being got -so solid, they only cut it in slices, put it into the Vat and work it -well into it, by squeezing thoroughly to make it firm and close, then -put it into the Press, and no more is needful. The finest, fattest and -best Cheese I have seen, I have been informed was made this way; there -is sure to be no sweet Cheese, horny-coated, or jointed Cheese made -in this manner; sometimes I have observed Cheese that has been sunk, -tho’ very fat and well tasted, that would become very hard and cut -chiselly, which I take to be owing to the Curd getting very cold and -set hard before Vatted, to prevent its doing so, it may be necessary -to break the Curd and not give it quite so much time in earning; as -many People prefer Cheese that is not so very solid, or that has a -mellow softness, which breaking will give it; although it is reckon’d -the best quality to cut solid, and flakey; remembering that giving -it more time in earning makes it more solid, and shortening the time -makes it less so. Many Dairy-women are much puzzled concerning the -cause of sweet Cheese, forming different ideas about it; I am fully -convinced it is wholly caused by stirring or breaking it too soon in -the Tub, by which means the Runnet has never taken full effect, nor -is any slip-Curd ever fit to make Cheese with, in what ever state it -may appear, unless in soft Cheese, or slip-coat Cheese; for when Curd -is quite in a slippery state, especially if very warm, salt will have -very little effect on it, which is the cause it is so apt to putrify -and dissolve, and a very principal cause why Cheese becomes sweet, is, -its not having taken salt, as you may generally perceive Cheese that -is much jointed or blue-pared has scarce any relish or saltness in it. -When the Whey is of a white colour the Curd is not fully settled, and -if it is so to any great degree, the Cheese is sure to be sweet, and -in that case you always cast away great part of what should be Cheese, -for the Whey thus put away would neither turn to Butter nor Cheese, -though of a considerable substance, remaining of an undigested nature: -If you pursue the method I have laid down, you will always find the -Whey quite green, which is the colour it ought to be of; and let more -or less be the time you adopt to put your Cheese together, if the -Whey is not green, depend upon it your Cheese is not properly come, -or your Maw-skin is not good, or quantity of Runnet not sufficient. -It is difficult to ascertain what quantity of Runnet is required to -bring a Cheese in the most proper manner, as the quality of the Skin -is so various, and strength of Runnet, as well as quality of Milk so -different; People are much divided in opinion, whether ’tis the best -way to make your Runnet fresh every Day, or to prepare a quantity -together, according to the quantity you want and bottle it up for use; -in large Dairy’s it must be best to make a quantity together, as you -certainly must be a better judge of the quality, or what quantity is -necessary, than when the making is left to chance, as by that means you -may regulate the quality and taste of your Cheese better, and have more -dependance on the time of its coming. - -The best Dairy-women I have known, in general, recommend the latter -method. - -The cause of jointing or wind-shook Cheese, is from a small quantity -of slip-Curd being much broke, so as not sufficient, to form Eyes in -the Cheese; but which is sufficient when dissolved through the whole -mass, to leave a vacancy, which generally unites in a perpendicular -direction, and forming cracks or joints within the Cheese, and sinking -joints nearly like to cracks on the outside. If it happens to any -considerable degree, it causes the Cheese to have very little taste, -generally turns blue-pared whilst under a year old, and often rotten -Cheese when older; most dry rotten Cheese is produced from this effect, -unless when bruises, or cracks are the cause. Wet, or moist rotten is -generally produced by a larger quantity of slip-Curd; having never -united in a solid state, nor taken any salt, becomes very putrid and -rots, and as the Cheese dissolves, is often very wet or moist. I have -several times seen Cheese that has appeared sound till cut, that -afterwards had not a pound of sound Cheese in a whole one. Spungy -Cheese is such as partakes of the elastic or springing quality of a -Spunge, I take it to be produced from Curd, which has nearly undergone -every proper fermentation to make the Curd unite, but leaves it in -a very tough state, caused by the over heat of the Milk when put -together. Rank, or strong Cheese is generally caused by too great a -quantity of Runnet, and that Runnet made too strong to operate in the -time given, or from Runnet being made with foul materials; hove, or -heaved Cheese is caused by different means; when the quantity of Air in -Cheese increases after the Cheese has been some time made, I suppose -such Air to be rarified by a greater heat than the Cheese has before -been in, the coat being got hard and the pores much closed, the Air -expands within, and causes the Cheese to rise or swell, in a round -form; this is very visible when you put a taster into the Cheese or a -pin to let out the Air, it rusheth forth with a strong wind, of a rank -disagreeable smell, caused by the Air being discharged from putrid or -undigested Curd. Sometimes, if Cheese is laid cool when first made, -or coming from the Press, is dried outwardly by means of a harsh cool -Air, when at the same time the inside of the Cheese remains in a moist -state, though the coat is hard and dry; when that Cheese is exposed to -heat, either by lying near a hot Wall, or near Tiles in hot Weather, -or by the immediate heat of the Sun, it will be drawn up, round, in -the same manner, and by the same cause that a board is made round or -coffer’d up, by the heat of the Sun; rank Cheese very often heaves, -from the cause before given that makes it rank: ’Tis very common for -Dairy-women, to ask, what will cure hove, or heav’d Cheese? I am fully -of opinion there is no cure for it after it is affected with heaving, -but to let the Air out of it, that it may close and settle again. -There has for many Years, been an ingredient sold in Shops, called -Cheese-powder, being made of nitre or salt petre, and bole armoniac -proportion’d thus, to one pound of salt petre, put half an ounce of -bole armoniac, both powder’d very fine, and well mixt together, rub -about one quarter of an ounce upon a Cheese, when put a second and -third time into the Press, about half on each side the Cheese at two -different meals, on the upper side, before you rub the salt on, that it -may penetrate the Cheese with it; these are very binding ingredients -and are sometimes found to be very serviceable, but nitre is apt to -give the Cheese an acetous or sourish taste, and if too much is put in, -and the Cheese is expos’d to great heat, will cause a fermentation, -that will encrease the quantity of Air in the Cheese & cause it to -swell more than it would if none had been put in. I have known many -things recommended as a cure, but could never find that any thing was -serviceable except the above, and piercing, or discharging the Air, -with a needle, wire, or skewer. The most powerful preventative to the -heaving of Cheese, is, to avoid making the Runnet too strong, or, not -to put too much into the Milk, to take care that your Runnet is not -foul, nor made either with Whey or Brine drippings, or tainted Skins, -to be certain that your Curd is fully come, not stirring it till it has -had time for the fermentation fully to take effect, to let it drain a -little before it is broke or vatted, and to keep the Cheese warm, till -it is got stiff, or had a sweat, and you will, by a careful attention -to these particulars, very seldom have any hove Cheese. - -Cheese is very apt to split, or divide in the middle, by being salted -within, especially, when people spread salt across the middle of the -Cheese when the vat is about half filled, which Curd tho’ in a small -degree separated by salt, never closes, or joins, and is much easier -coffer’d up or drawn round than other Cheese; especially, thin Cheese -made in what we call _Glocester_ vats being round or rising in the -bottom, and the slider or Cheese-board that is laid over it, made -convex also, in order to make the Cheese thinned in the middle, that -it may dry quick, for early sale. Then, if salted within and being -laid soft on the shelf to dry, as it bears only on the edge all round, -it is almost sure to split; and it is often seen, scarce a Cheese in -some Dairys of this form but what do split; salting a little in the -Milk is greatly preferable, for these Dairys in particular; for as -salt dissolves, it keeps the inside of the Cheese moist or soft for -sometime, if salted in the Curd, which is what I would never recommend -to be done in any Dairy, especially across the middle as is often -done. I have sometimes known Cheese thus salted when there has been -much slip-Curd in it, and that, and the salt both dissolving together, -and the Cheese split, the vacancy shall contain a quantity of Water, -which if ironed when Young, gushes out, or else cracks the Cheese -when moved, and the Water runs out to a considerable degree, the same -thing must have been observed by other Factors, in some Dairys where -salting in the middle is used. Cheese is apt to bulge, fly-out, or -get round edged, when it is either kept soft, by being moist within, -or having too much slip-Curd or unsettled Curd, or elastic Air within -it. Dry cracks, or wind cracks are generally produced, by keeping Curd -from one meal to another which gets quite cold and fixed, and being -put together with Curd that is made of too hot Milk, these two, never -properly adhere, or join, and cause the coat to be harsh, and often -fly, or crack. Curdly or wrinkle-coated Cheese is caused by sour Milk, -chiefly when Cheese is made from two meals, as ’tis very common in hot -Weather for Milk to turn, or get sour in one night’s time, especially -if Milk is hot when set up, having been much heated in the Cow’s Udder, -and very probably much agitated and disturbed by Cows running about, -or being heated to a violent degree, or the Milk having been carried -in Churns or Barrels on Horse-back any distance; Cheese made of cold -Milk, especially if inclined to be sour, is apt to cut chiselly, or -that breaks or flies before the knife. Sunk coated Cheese is caused -by being made too cold, as you will often find Cheese that is made in -Winter or late in Autumn, will be, unless laid in a warm Room after it -is made. Two-meal Cheese is made with two meals, or night and mornings -Milk, which if put together pure, not having the Cream taken off, will -make nearly as good Cheese as new Milk, and much better if it must be -finished in one Hour, or less, or when new Milk Cheese is made with -Milk that is too hot. - -What is generally known by the name of two-meal Cheese, is in -_Gloucestershire_ called second Cheese, being made from one meal new -Milk and one of old, or skimmed Milk, having the Cream taken away. -Skimmed Cheese, or Flet-Milk Cheese, is made from all skimmed Milk, -the Cream having been taken off the whole to make Butter, or for other -purposes: This sort of Cheese is much made in the County of _Suffolk_, -or at least goes by the name of _Suffolk_ Cheese, when at market, or -in _London_, where the principal part of it is disposed of; it being -much used on ship-board, not being so much affected by the heat of the -ship as richer Cheese, or so subject to decay in long Voyages, and -being bought at a low price, makes it much called for in that way. -There is but little art required in making this Cheese, if care is -taken of it, but yet there is great difference in the quality of it, -which I am fully convinced is principally caused by want of care; it is -not exposed to so many difficulties as richer Cheese, but Dairy-women -must remember, slip-curd has the same effect, in a lesser degree in -Skim Cheese as in new Milk; though the Milk being much weaker is not -in so much danger. An Hour, or an Hour and a Quarter is time enough to -give it in rendling; keep the Cheese warm when young, and cool after. -I know some Dairy-women do not give it three quarters of an Hour in -coming, and thereby find more difficulty than need be; paying little -regard to it, as they do not use it themselves, nor will it fetch much -money, yet I know some careful Dairy-women who make Skim cheese that -would deceive a common observer, in appearance, being made in the same -form as new Milk Cheese, well coloured, made clean, and better coated, -than many ordinary Dairys of new Milk Cheese. - -I have paid in a Dairy of thirty Cows upwards of sixty Pounds in a Year -for skim Cheese, an object not unworthy a Dairy-man’s notice, some -people are of Opinion, the most Money to be made of the skim Milk of a -Dairy, is to feed Sows and Pigs with it, but this I must leave to those -concerned in the business. Some Dairy-women in order to enrich their -new Milk Cheeses will put the Whey Cream, into their Milk, which if -quite fresh, not older than one or two Meals, will improve it. To make -fine Cream Cheese, one meal of Cream extraordinary should be added to -the new Milk; this will make exceeding rich Cheese, but requires great -care, and should not be gathered or sunk in less than two Hours. I -apprehend two Hours and a half or three Hours will be found much better -in general. - -The way recommended to make soft Cheese, or slip-coat Cheese, is, -take six quarts of new Milk hot from the Cow; the stroakings or -last Milkings are the best, being the richest Milk; put into it two -spoonfuls of Runnet, let it stand three quarters of an hour, or -till it is hard coming, or become full Curd; lay it into the Vat -with a spoon, not breaking it at all, laying upon it a trencher, or -flat-board; press it with a four pound weight, or if you find it gets -too hard, then press it with a lighter weight, turning it with a -dry cloth once an hour, and when got stiff, shift it every day upon -fresh grass or rushes; it will be fit to cut in ten or fourteen days, -or sooner, if the Weather be warm; many people use Baskets, made on -purpose, instead of Vats to make it in, this is esteemed in private -Families; where it is carried to market, Vats must be best, unless -carried in the Baskets. - -To make brick-bat Cheese; in _September_, take two gallons of new -Milk, and a quart of good Cream; warm the Cream, put in two or three -spoonfuls of Runnet, when it is well come, break it a little, then put -it into a wooden mould in the shape of a brick, press it a little, then -dry it; it is best to be half a Year old before it is used, or more, -if you like it older; two hours is as little as it ought to be in -earning, or to stand before it is broke after the Runnet is put in, or -longer if the Whey is not inclined to be green. I am informed _Stilton_ -Cheese is made in this way. - -Cream Cheese is generally made in _Autumn_, the Milk being richer and -fatter in _August_ and _September_; by which means it has not the -warm Season to ripen it, and it is generally made thick, in order to -preserve it’s mellowness. Rich Cheese will not dry so fast as lean, nor -thick Cheese so soon as thin; in course it must get less hard in the -Season than common thin Cheese, by which means it is more exposed to -frost and chilling cold. I have often found that people who make Cream -Cheeses, find more casualty attend them, than in leaner, hard Cheeses, -owing to chillness, or being froze before they get hard; for when frost -gets much into Cheese, it destroys every good quality, and makes it -putrify, and become either insipid or ill tasted; Cream Cheese should -always be kept in a warm situation, and be particularly guarded from -frost, and till it has sweat well, or you will lose the advantage of -its richness. The contrary method is to be used with skim Cheese, as in -that, there is very little fat to sweat out, and chill Cheese is better -than harsh-meated, horney-coated Cheese; let it have what warmth you -can for about a fortnight after making, and then keep it cool. - -In making slip-coat or soft Cheese, remember it is of quite a contrary -nature to hard Cheese; and instead of getting stiff, its best quality -is to have it run, or dissolve into a creamy substance; for which -reason it must be made with Slip-Curd, which alone will cause it so to -do; good Curd will always get harder by drying, but Slip-Curd will not -even become solid, or continue a Substance; this clearly demonstrates -my Sentiments on Slip-Curd as before related. It has generally been -reckoned that the Milk required to make one Pound of Butter will make -two Pounds of Cheese, and a larger quantity where Land is poor, the -Milk being weak will not afford so much Cream. - -As colouring of Cheese is now become almost an universal practice, it -is highly necessary to pay a due regard thereto; Cheese, in its native -state, that is well Manufactured, being put together in proper time, -the Milk of proper warmth, well cleaned when young, and kept warm, -till being regularly Dry, will naturally be of a yellow cast, and when -a Year old will coat of a reddish or brown-red colour; the richer the -Cheese, the more ’tis inclined to appear in this manner, and you seldom -meet with Cheese of this native cast but what is exceeding good, being -fat, well-tasted, cuts flaky, is stout, or full-tasted, high-flavour’d -Cheese; and it is found that every country will produce some such -Cheese, when in the hands of skilful Dairy-folks, though it has yet -appeared in a small degree; you will find such Cheese among the fine -Dairys in _Cheshire_, _Double-Gloucester_, or _Thick-Gloucester_, being -made double the Thickness of common Cheese, _North-Wilts_, in some -few Dairys, in _Derby_, _Stafford_, _Leicester_, and _Warwickshires_, -but there being so small a proportion of this best Cheese, and the -demand for it being larger than the supply, a substitute is thought -necessary, to make good Cheese look as much like fine Cheese as -possible, from which cause the art of colouring originates, and much -increases. - -It is remarked by dealers in Cheese as well as others, that a much -greater part of the People that eat Cheese, have little Idea how it -is produced; they, finding the best Cheese of the fullest, or yellow -colour, naturally conclude, or are led to think, that Cheese of a pale -colour, must be made with inferior (or skimmed) Milk. So much this Idea -prevails, that it is well known, in _London_, a Cheese-monger will more -readily sell good Cheese of a full colour than fine Cheese of a pale or -inferior colour; _London_ being the principal Market, or place where -the greatest quantity of the best Cheese is sold. Colouring formerly -used to be performed by various Drugs, as _Turmerick_, _Sanders_, -_&c._ by _Marigolds_, _Hawthorn-buds_, and the like. The principal -ingredients now used is _Annatto_, and in its best kind, is much the -best colouring that ever was found out. _Annatto_ is of two sorts, -known by the name of _Spanish-Annatto_ and _Flag-Annatto_, the former -is much the best for Cheese-colouring; being of a hard substance, -and proper in kind, or texture, dispensing its colour in a regular -and free manner, without being subject to much waste or decay. The -_Flag-Annatto_ is brought over in a moist state, and wrapped in large -broad _Flags_, which keeps it in some degree from waste; it is brought -in that state chiefly for the Dyers use, and is a principal Article in -Dying Orange-colour; if this sort is used in colouring Cheese before -it gets hard, it is apt to appear in the Milk of an oily nature which -prevents the colour taking effect in a regular manner, and is some -detriment to the coming of Cheese; if it is kept till quite dry and -hard, which in course of time it will be, perhaps in six, nine, or -twelve Months, it is then very little inferior to _Spanish_. Of this -last ingredient, mixt with others, the Druggists and Blue makers in -_London_, make large quantities of what they call Cheese-colouring, -often giving it the name of _Spanish-Annatto_, and there is some of -it made, to very much resemble it, both in nature, and colour. But -true _Spanish-Annatto_ is much preferable; I have known an ounce of -it colour ten hundred weight of Cheese, of a much better colour than -any other ingredient would that I ever knew; I have known it formerly -sold in shops at three shillings, and four shillings _per_ ounce; the -great price it then brought at market, and getting very much into use, -induced the _American_ planters, at one time, to send a large quantity, -which so much over-stocked the market, and lowered the price, that it -was not worth their while to make it; and for that reason, very little -of the genuine sort has come to _England_ since; but the same materials -have come in flags, which come at a much lower price, though nearly as -dear in the end, being so much heavier, and the colour not going so far -as the _Spanish_, nor is the colour so exquisite or blooming as the -_Spanish_; that, giving the Cheese the bloom of native yellow Butter, -when made in the prime season of Spring. An ill opinion having been -formed of coloured Cheese, and by many said, that it is unwholesome; -in order to remove that prejudice, I will endeavour to describe its -nature. It is made from the seed of a plant, of the flowering kind, -much like to a balsam, the seed is so much like it, as scarce to be -distinguished from it; I have sowed it, but without effect, our climate -being too cold. I was sometime since enquiring of a _Jamaica_ Planter, -how the _Annatto_ was prepared for use; who said when the Seed was ripe -it was covered with a slimy or unctuous skin like as Linseed is, which -being steeped a little while in water, became loose from the Seed and -was rubbed off with a cloth or flannel, which being afterwards washed -with water, was sunk to the bottom; on pouring the water off, the -_Annatto_ was produced in a wet pulp, or paste, which being wrapped in -flags, was ready for Dyers use. - -In the _Spanish Islands_, they dry it and make it up in balls for use, -and ’tis a principal ingredient in lacquering brass, _&c._ as well -as colouring Cheese. I am well convinced that in its pure state, it -is of a very rich fattening nature, and improves Cheese to a great -degree, in quality, as well as colour; as I never met with any Cheese -so exquisite, that had not been coloured with it, as I have of that -which hath. The way it is used in colouring Cheese, is, take a piece -of _Spanish-Annatto_, which appears in form of a stone, then take a -bowl of Milk, dip the _Annatto_ a little into it, then take a pebble, -or hard Rag-stone, on which rub the _Wet-Annatto_, washing off the -_Annatto_ into the bowl, till it becomes of a deep colour, then put -that into the tub, or pan of Milk you make Cheese of, (before you put -in the Runnet or Salt) in such quantity as will render the whole of a -pale Orange-colour, which will get deeper, or increase in colour after -the Cheese is made; one good property _Annatto_ partakes of, it neither -affects the Cheese in taste or smell. Cheese is often impregnated with -Sage, by bruising the leaves and mixing the juice with Milk, which -gives it a green colour, and an agreeable taste. Some use Parsley in -the same manner, but that is not so much esteemed for flavour as Sage, -Marigold-flowers are bruised and used the same way; these flowers -are reckoned of a very fattening nature, and good flavour, and -esteemed the most of any, and give the Cheese a colour nearly equal to -_Annatto_. Cochineal is also used by the curious, being of a fine pink -hue, and has a pretty effect, in the hand of an ingenious Dairy-woman, -in making figures of Flowers, Trees, _&c._ in Cheese. - -Dairy-women who are fully of opinion, that no better method can be -used, than that which they apply, are not often very readily convinced, -that there are better methods of making Cheese than theirs. A Factor -who is a good judge of Cheese, sees a great variety in the quality of -Cheese, and altho’ most People like good Cheese, yet so easily is the -difference discerned by nice judges, who have frequent opportunities -of remarking it, that they can perceive a real and distinguishing -property, that causes a very different Idea in them, from what they -hear advanced by the makers. Such a dealer is very certain, that in a -large connexion of trade, he will find some very good judges, who know -how to prefer excellence in quality, and are well acquainted with the -perfections required in the article, and perhaps from their situation -in life, are enabled to get a much higher, than a common Market-price, -for a superior Article: Such a Person will have such goods, in what -place soever they can be met with, and knows also that in order to -procure them he must give a superior Price. - -A Person who engages to supply such customers, as such there are in -perhaps every country, in a larger or lesser degree, must use his own -judgment, and not depend on the good opinion others may form of their -goods. He will find in a very large survey, amongst Dairys, in the -best country he travels, a very small proportion of excellent Dairys, -or such as will supply those particular customers, and when he meets -with them, is perhaps, obliged to deal them out very sparingly to the -different good customers, that may wish to have some particular nice, -and good Cheese for such of their Friends, who are likewise determined -to have the very best they can meet with. Very good second-rate -Cheese, is much more scarce than inferior, and the best, will still -find customers. Every dealer would be happy to find a large supply of -fine Cheese, every maker of Cheese would be glad to have his Dairy -meet with that preference. Some Dairy-folks will complain that there -is not proper encouragement given for making good Cheese; as Factors -give for all Dairys in a neighbourhood, nearly the same Price, though -some of these Dairys are not so good as others, by some shillings _per_ -hundred: But then let these people remember, that ’tis themselves -only that sit in judgment in this case. Bring the makers of two -Dairys together, and you will hear each of them give the preference -to their own. The Factor must clear himself of this charge! For ’tis -of dangerous consequence, for a Factor to complain of any fault in -the Cheese to the maker, or not give it sufficient praise.--Perhaps -he will say to the Person, whose Dairy may appear the neatest, and -have had most care taken of it, and in the Eye of most people, had the -preference, your Cheese is extremely neat and good, is fat and mild, -and will please many of our best customers exceedingly, will even -stand in competition with _Gloucester_ and _Wiltshire_ Cheese, which -is always neat, well-handled, and mostly esteemed by genteel People, -your neighbour’s Cheese is not so mild or beautiful, but has many -good qualities, ’tis full flavoured, stout Cheese, such as is most in -demand, is bought by people who do not so much mind the beauty of it, -as being profitable Cheese to buy, that will spend well, or according -to the common Phrase, will eat Bread well, and though there may be a -few strong Cheeses amongst them, there are many customers wish to have -them so. If you go into a Fair, you will find some people looking for -handsome mild Cheese, but more buyers of stout, good spending Cheese, -of which they must be better judges, what suits their sale, than the -makers.--Certainly there are in most Countries, some few Dairys that -have all the good qualities; beautiful, fat, fine flavoured, _&c._ -and these generally find their way to the best market. There is one -best way of doing every thing, and ’tis what in every way of life -is a cause of strife; a maxim I was taught in my youth, was, never -strive to be second best, some one must prevail, and they that do must -strive for it, the best way of doing a thing is as easy, when known, as -the second best. This emulation is what every dealer in Cheese would -wish to discover in the breast, and proceedings, of the Different -Dairy-folks in his walk, that he might be enabled to go to Market, -as one, who could lead and command both the opinion and interest of -the best customers: Such goods as would give that preference to him, -would of course give the command in price to those who supplied him; -for though the Cheese they now make, may at present support their own -good opinion, yet, when they come to find, that they have improved -in so great a degree, as to enable them to see excellence, where -they only saw usefulness, and blooming beauty, where only mediocrity -appeared; Ambition and Interest, their bosom friends, will point out -a new road to them, in which they will travel, not only as swift and -prosperous, as their rival neighbours, but will not leave them in an -easy and composed state, till they have out gone them. In this happy -track I confess I should be glad to meet many of my old friends and -neighbours, in whose service I have laboured many a long day; and -so far as my abilities will support me, should be glad to be their -conductor; but whether in my present pursuit, I may be so happy as to -shew them the right road, is very uncertain. If by opening their Ideas -afresh, shewing them where Improvements may be looked for, and giving -them some convincing circumstances, where such truths appear, they may -be led to look farther to find better, I shall hope they are in a fair -way to prevail. Some few circumstances they perhaps may expect, to -convince, and some fresh out-lines to extend the Ideas I have set on -float. I will give you in a few instances, the way I came first to be -moved in this pursuit. - -The first that alarmed my Ideas, concerning the cause of sweet, -unsettled and ill-flavoured Cheese was, I was once going by a house, -I knew was notorious for as bad a Dairy as I ever met with, the -Dairy-woman saw me, and said, won’t you call and look at my Cheese, I -am sure ’tis as good as my neighbour T--s, which you have been buying, -I replied I fear not; come in then and see, she said; as soon as I came -into the Dairy-chamber, I saw, and told her it would not suit me; why -not, she replied, I am sure ’tis every drop New-Milk, and nobody can -take more pains with it, nor work harder at it than I do. On looking -to the farther side of the room, I perceived a Cheese that was very -blooming in appearance, handsome in shape, well-coated, firm, fat, and -much larger than the rest. I said, pray how came that Cheese there--I -should be glad to know the History of it; why truly said she ’tis a -strange one. I replied if you will make such Cheese as that, it would -be worth five shillings, or even ten shillings a hundred weight, more -than the rest; says she, one night when I had rendled my Milk, a person -came running to me, and said, neighbour T-- is groaning and you must -come immediately; I said to a raw wench I had to help me, now be sure -you don’t touch this Cheese till I come back, I will be sure to come -to you when I see how neighbour T-- is; but it happened she was worse -than I expected, and I could not leave her till after midnight. I -said, my Cheese will be spoiled, but the poor Woman shall not be lost -for a Cheese; when I came home I found it not so bad as I expected, put -it into the Vat in a hurry, saying, it may possibly make a Cheese that -will do for ourselves, but I little thought it would ever be a saleable -Cheese;--well now--said I, and is not this Cheese a proper lesson to -you? don’t you thereby plainly see that you have made the rest too -quick--why yes--said she, it might, if I had thought at all--but I -declare, I never once thought about it--Profound stupidity! thought I -to myself, and left her--however, this plainly convinced me that Cheese -in general was made too much in a hurry, and often when I came to a -Dairy where the same complaint prevailed, I told them this story, and -it frequently had the good effect, to produce good Cheese in the lieu -of bad, by giving more time to the Milk in earning. - -To corroborate with this story also, my own opinion, that good Cheese -may be made by a skilful Dairy-woman in any place, or on any land; -there now lives in the same farm, where this old woman did, a person -who makes, without exception, as good a Dairy of Cheese, in every -point, as I ever met with in any country; I have had this Dairy, at -a Fair at a distance for many years, and two or three people were -generally at strife to have it, and it commonly happen’d that it was -made a point of by Buyers, that if I would let them have that Dairy, -they would buy their whole quantity of me, so that it generally was the -cause of my selling three or four other Dairys along with it. Next, -to shew that there are many Dairy-women do not make so much Cheese -from the same Milk, or near it, as they might, or ought to do; on the -evening of a very hot day, I went through a Farm-yard, and was much -pleased to see as fine a Dairy of twenty Cows as I had seen for a long -time, on going into the Dairy-chamber, to my great surprize, I found a -poor parcel of very lean, hungry looked, ill shaped, bad tasted, hove, -and Whey-spring Cheese,--I said to the Dairy-woman, certainly this is -not all the Cheese you have made from the fine Dairy of Cattle I saw -in your yard! It really is, said she, except the few that are not come -out of the Dairy. I have been so ill for the last two or three months, -I could not possibly be amongst it, and I find my maids know very -little of the matter. It is a poor parcel, and I am ashamed to see it; -I replied your servant takes a wrong method in making Cheese; I will -engage to tell you how you shall make two Cheeses where you now make -one, or one Cheese as large again; that difference, struck her much; -if you will she said, I will try it, and this very evening--Then, said -I,--as the weather is hot, take three or four quarts of fresh spring -Water, or in such quantity till you find your Milk is what you may -properly call Milk-warm, then, put two or three handfuls of Salt into -it,--after that put your Runnet into it, and let it stand an hour and -half before you stir it, if ’tis two hours it will be better, and you -will be sure to have more Cheese, in that time, the Curd will incline -to sink easily to the bottom of your Tub, then collect and gather your -Curd,--let it stand one quarter of a hour to settle, then Vat it, and -put it into your Press; let it stand in the Press two or three meals, -turning it in the Press once between the first meals, and at each meal -after--she followed my advice precisely, the Milk being at rest before -I left the house. Some time after, I enquired of her how my advice -succeeded; she said quite well, and I am convinced we had not made half -the Cheese we ought to have done. But observed, their Pigs had been -found to thrive in a surprizing manner, and well they might, after -having had more than half the produce of the Dairy. - -I once met with a young Dairy-woman at a Fair; who had a lot of -Cheese unsold, after almost every Dairy in the Yard it stood in was -disposed of; she asked me to buy her Cheese, having bought some -adjoining Dairys; I objected, saying I do not like it, she seemed -rather surpriz’d, saying, I am sure ’tis made of as good Milk and as -well took care of as any of my neighbours that you have bought, I told -her the method she took in making the Cheese was wrong, she seemed -quite desirous to improve it if she knew how. I desired her to follow -the method described above, exactly, which she promised to do, but -observed it was so contrary to what she had ever heard of, she should -be surprized if it made good Cheese. I said the Cheese you have here -is very bad, the way to make good Cheese must be contrary to that -in which this was made, for the like reason as when a person is in -a burning fever, cooling medicines are applied to restore him; when -very chill, a warming remedy will have effect--she wish’d to know what -were the faults of her Cheese; I told her it was very loose, sweet, -or ill-tasted; that rather displeased her, and she seemed to mistrust -my knowing any thing of the matter--saying--it is not sweet--how -can you possibly know that never tasted it, I told her Cheese of -that countenance always was sweet. I put my taster into one and gave -it her to taste, she acknowledged it was very rank, but wondered -how I could know it was so--I perceived the Cheese of an unsettled -nature, that I had not a doubt the Milk had been carried in Churns -or Barrels, I said I imagine your Dairy-ground is some distance from -your House, do you milk your Cows in the field or drive them home, she -said sometimes the latter, but generally the former, and brought the -Milk home on Horse-back. I told her how difficult it was to make good -Cheese of Milk carried in that way; she said I find you know where I -live, I replied I don’t know so much as the County you live in, she -seemed quite astonish’d; I saw a husky dry coated Cheese on the top -of one of the heaps, that had dry cracks in it; I said, I suppose you -remember how that Cheese was made; she answered in the affirmative, -when you made that Cheese, I said, you had reserved some Curd from -the meal before, and put into the other Curd, next meal, which having -been rendled too hot would not join together, as I will shew you by -the different Curds in the Cheese, which I did in my taster, the -white looking Curd being the old Curd which caused the cracks, and -the yellow the New-Milk, (and you may always observe a mixture of -that kind where Curd is kept from the last meal, appearing marbled -and cutting chiselly)--She acknowledged that Cheese was made in the -manner I described, seemed very thankful for my advice, and pursued -it very nearly the next Summer, when she produced at the same Fair -the following Year a Dairy of Cheese with very few faults; I pointed -them out to her, told her how to remedy them, as in the rules before -described; she thanked me, and the next Year with great pleasure shewed -me an exceeding good parcel of Cheese.--A near relation of mine, who -kept a Butter Dairy, was desirous of making Cheese, and said to me, -I am entirely ignorant how to proceed, but if you will point out the -right method, I will exactly follow it, I gave her the same direction -as to the former Dairy-woman, she followed it, and I am certain no one -can make nicer, or fatter well tasted Cheese than she did, being one -Day saying how good her Cheese proved, observed she had one Cheese, -then cut, that was jointed and blue-pared, and wish’d to know the cause -of it; I examined it, and found it must be caused by slip-curd; she -said she never altered, or shortened the Time given for the coming of -the Milk after it was rendled; on ruminating the cause, I said, do you -put your bowl in the Tub when the Runnet is in? She replied always; do -you ever find any difference in the Curd under the Bowl from the rest, -on removing the Bowl?--Sometimes I perceive the Curd under the Bowl -of a smooth slippery nature, and when I have tried to get it solid, I -never could, it always slipt through my fingers, and some of it would -swim in the Whey when the other was solid, which I always took care -to break as small as flour, among the other Curd--I said is the Bowl -being there of any use? She did not know that it was; she took it away -and had no jointed Cheese after, in her Dairy; which plainly convinced -me that the Air under the Bowl prevented the Curd from coming in the -same Time as the rest, and that the small quantity of slip-curd under -it, was the sole cause of the joints that appeared, for there was not -an Eye in the Cheese, owing to its being broke so small, which if any -of the slip-curd had been left in bits of any size, would have caused -Eyes larger or smaller in the Cheese, but now it dissolved in the -form, and manner before described, in jointed Cheese; it is a general -practice with Dairy-women to put the Bowl in the Milk when the Runnet -is put in, and leave it in till the Cheese is come; I have frequently -asked the reason for it, and the general answer was, that by taking -the Bowl out, they might know when the Cheese was come; which will be -much better known by putting the Bowl the contrary way, or the hollow -part upwards instead of being downwards, for there is often slip-curd -collects under the Bowl when put downwards and that makes your Cheese -Whey spring, or Eyey, and for that reason the Bowl had much better -not be put in at all, especially in Cheese that is sunk, and not -broke, as then the slip-curd is sure to cause Whey springs.--Another -relation, being pleased with her Sister succeeding so well, followed -exactly the same method, having wrote down every particular, and her -Cheese was remarkably fine and good. These, and such like instances -convince me that good Cheese may be made by rule, or regular method, on -any Land, providing nothing very singular prevents, as from noxious -weeds, plants, &c. or distempered Cattle. It is often observed poor -Land makes the best Cheese; to those who are fond of mild Cheese, it -very often does, the Milk being weaker or thinner, is sooner collected -into Curd, than rich Milk, by which means it is often completely fit -to sink or gather sooner, and has many chances of making good Cheese -by that means, or in the same time allowed, than from better Milk, -which will not become good Curd in the same time that is given for the -weaker Milk; for if the Curd is not solid and good, no art can make -good Cheese of it. But, if rich pasture, good feeding Land, being old -Turf, has proper time given it to make good Curd, and the Cheese is -well taken care of after, I always find the richer Grass makes the best -Cheese and more of it. To confirm my Opinion, that breaking Cheese in -the Curd is a needless and exceeding wasteful method; being lately at a -friend’s house who keeps a few Cows only to make Butter and Cheese for -their own use, and that of a few friends, the Gentlewoman said to me, I -could wish to know the best method of making fine Cheese, (having met -with such at my relations, before mentioned) and desired my directions; -and said their Cheese was apt to be a good while in coming when in the -Tub, their pasture being rich old Turf. I told them to give it full two -hours, recommended putting salt in the Milk as before prescribed, which -was done, and to sink the Curd instead of breaking it; after having a -long knife made from a lath, cut the Curd from top to bottom, crossing -it many times, by which means the Whey separates readily, then get a -sieve and there with you will press down the Curd with great ease. -Having settled the Curd well, and let it stand a quarter of an hour to -drain, having laded all the Whey out, it became quite solid--then the -Dairy-maid cut it in slices and work’d it into the Vat, without ever -breaking the Curd at all; with very little trouble, and in a short time -she made a complete handsome Cheese; full one third part larger than -any they had before produced from the same Cows, and continued so to do -in succeeding days, the Whey being quite green, which they could never -bring it to be, when broke and gathered in the Tub; and broke in the -Vat afterward, which method certainly wastes a great deal of Cheese and -much impoverishes it by squeezing the fat out in breaking. - -A friendly correspondent, being a considerable dealer in Cheese, -knowing of my intended publication, is so kind as to favour me with his -sentiments on some particulars; which, as some of them coincide with my -own already described, and one in particular, promises great utility -to very small Dairys, and will be a considerable means to prevent -sour Cheese, by pointing out a method to preserve the Curd without -hazard, with his permission I lay it before my readers. “I have some -years been trying to find out the reason why Cheese frequently looks -of a grey dirty appearance, and which is always attended with a strong -disagreeable taste, and from enquiries and observations I have made, -I am clearly convinced it is owing to the Runnet being kept too long, -and not being sweet when put into the Milk. It is often the case in -small Dairys in order to make the Cheese of a tolerable full size, to -make it but once a day, and in hot Weather it is almost impossible to -prevent one meal being sour, which must inevitably spoil the Cheese. -I beg leave to inform you of a method practised with good success. -A friend of mine who was a Farmer’s Daughter, and had been used to -a Dairy, marrying a person of a different profession, they kept one -Cow to give Milk for the family, which being small she could not use -all the Milk; she then tried to make Cheese of the surplus, and made -tolerable sized Cheeses, perhaps seven or eight pounds each, in the -following manner; when the weather was warm, she put Runnet to the Milk -as oft as she found it necessary, once or twice a day, while it was -sweet; having separated the Curd from the Whey, she put the Curd into a -broad shallow Tub, just covering it with cold water, and shifting the -water two or three times a day as she thought necessary, and thus kept -the different parcels of Curd, till she had enough to fill her Vat, by -which means, she made exceeding good Cheese. Some good Dairy-women, I -think often err in the manner of breaking their Curd; tho’ they make -good Cheese, they might make better and more of it, if they did not -squeeze out so much of the fat in breaking; the Whey that first runs -from the Curd is always the thinnest, and was that thin part first -separated, before the Curd was much broke, it would certainly leave -the Cream in the Cheese, which would but little of it squeeze out in -putting in the Vat, but when it is broke so very small amongst the Whey -the rich parts are squeezed amongst the thin Whey and carried away -with it. I know an instance or two myself, of persons who I firmly -believe made their Cheese of real New-Milk, yet broke their Curd so -much that their Cheese was not so good as I have had two-meal Cheese. I -think the method used in _Norfolk_ and _Suffolk_ to separate the Whey -from the Curd, is much preferable to that used in _Warwickshire_, or -_Leicestershire_; when they think the Milk is sufficiently curdled, -they lay a strainer into a basket (made for the purpose,) which they -put the Curd into and let it stand to drain for a time, before they -break the Curd.” In regard to my friend’s opinion concerning what he -calls grey, dirty looking Cheese, ’tis often caused by foul Runnet, but -I am of opinion it more often happens when Cows have been drenched, -either for the yellows or other complaints; and it will look of that -countenance and get insipid, or ill tasted when much frozen, as I have -more than once had Cheese in my own possession turn of that dark putrid -colour after being much froze, that I knew was not so before it was -affected by frost. - -Being lately in company with a Dairy-man at a distance, talking about -Cheese-making, he said he never used a Cheese press, and said that his -Cheese got hard as soon, and kept as well as those that used a Press, -the method he used is, to make the Cheese in a hoop (being chiefly -thickish skim Cheese, tho’ he said he often made New-Milk Cheese in -the same way) that was open at top and bottom, which being filled -with Curd, and well squeezed into it, was then set upon a board that -had holes bored in it, the hoop also being bored and cover’d with a -board which was bored also, putting a moderate weight upon the board -to settle the Cheese; turning it upside down, twice a day till it got -stiff, and it answered very well. When Curd is firm, it will settle and -get hard with very little crushing, it is the slip-Curd that is in it, -that makes it require so much pressing to settle it, this method will -be very useful in very small Dairys that have no Press. - -Clover, or other artificial Grass, which generally contains more Air -than common Grass, requires full time in bringing the Cheese; in its -first operation, it should not be exposed to too much heat, immediately -after it is made, as the greater the quantity of Air that remains in -the Cheese, the more effect heat will have upon it, by causing it to -heave, or split when the Air becomes rarified. Cheese made from Clover -is rather more difficult to make, to even the best of Dairy-women, but -I have seen very good sound Dairys of stout, full flavour’d Cheese -made from Clover, especially when a good deal of time is allowed to -bring the Cheese, and care is taken not to let it lye too hot, after -it begins to get dry. It is always hurtful to Cheese to lye too near -tiles in hot weather. Dairys are subject to damage by noxious, or -poisonous plants, roots, or trees: Where Cows are fed in pastures much -addicted to wild-garlick, or cow-garlick, ramsons, or wild chives, I -have often perceived the rank taste of the Herb in the Cheese. Many -people are at a fault to know the cause of bitter Cheese; which I have -often observed is most prevalent from poor, or moderate light Land, and -have frequently taken notice that where Cheese is bitter, their pasture -is much addicted to black plantain, ribbed Grass, or cock plant, may -weed, dandelion, especially the rough leaved sort; centaury--arsmart -or lakeweed, tansey, wormwood, meadow sweet, &c.--I take yarrow to -be an ill favoured Plant for Cheese, where it prevails much in Land, -being of a very faint nature, tho’ Sheep are said to be very fond of -it,--Hemlock--hen-bane--nightshade, cow-bane, cow-weed, water-wort, -kex, drop-wort, yew-tree, box, and most other ever-greens certainly -are noxious and very hurtful.[5] I have often observed in riding -thro’ Dairy-farms, how little attention is paid to pasturage, Farmers -frequently suffering many sorts of known noxious Plants or Weeds to -flourish in them, without any concern to extirpate or cast them out, or -of having the least thought of encouraging, or propogating such as are -salutary or cheering to Cattle; I have often heard the remark made by -Farmers that there is an instinct in Cattle that directs them to avoid -noxious Plants, and even directs nature to apply many as remedies in -various complaints; we often read of wild Beasts, Serpents, _&c._ that -are governed by such instinct.--But it often happens that in very dry -seasons, pastures are so very short that Cattle are obliged to eat any -thing that is green to keep them alive, and ’tis well known they often -do clear up every thing before them, and many sorts of Plants that -they will not touch at other times; I have often observed that in such -seasons, Cattle are very much subject to violent disorders; I have -known many die, without the owners, or cow-leech being at all able to -account for the cause; and frequently taken notice that Cattle dying -so suddenly are much subject to swell greatly, and often in the same -Dairy that many have died apparently from the same cause, and that such -complaints are most prevalent in the Months of _July_ and _August_, -when poisonous Plants are in full vigour; I remember one Person who -had lost several Cows, who was a judicious person in Farming affairs, -observe, that undigested Plants were found in their Stomachs, or Maws -when opened, although they had not eat any vegetable food for two or -three days, which made him suspect they were poisonous, and ’tis very -natural to form such an Idea. - -There is no branch in Husbandry seems of more importance, or gives -a larger field for improvement than the conducting and managing of -Dairy-Farms; as a great share of the health, as well as the lives of -the human species, are in a considerable degree dependent, on the -health and good condition of Milch Cows. Milk being a vegetable juice, -or that yields a nourishment partly vegetable and partly animalized, -partaking more or less, of the good or bad qualities of Plants on which -the Cow feeds--Milk, in its produce of Cream, Butter, Cheese and many -of our luxuries, is a constituent part of our daily food, through every -stage of Life, consequently great care ought to be taken, with respect -to the food of Animals, who furnish us with so great, and necessary a -part of our sustenance; I have always thought some knowledge in the use -of Plants, a very agreeable amusement, and it would certainly have been -much more my study, had I thought of ever having such an opportunity of -making it useful. Such as have fallen under my knowledge I have here -endeavoured to describe, in which I acknowledge to have received much -help from a late ingenious publication of DR. WITHERING on _Botany_, -(being the first I ever met with in English after the Linnæan System,) -which I think a work of great merit. As the Dairy-man, or Farmer, -becomes more informed of the nature of noxious Plants, he will -surely think it worth his while to try to get rid of them, by rooting -them out; and as it is well known that Cows are very much subject to -scowring, and flatulent or windy disorders, it may be very well worth -his while to sow or plant in his pastures and hedges, such herbs in -proper quantities as are found to be the best remedies for these and -such other complaints which Cattle are most incident to. Among many -that might be mentioned the following herbs are very salutary, (and if -there is such an instinct in Cattle as some suppose, they will know -how to cull the best,) lovage, agrimony, chervil, carraway, cummin, -mint, bazil, hyssop, rue, angelica, pepper-mint, penny-royal, thyme, -marjoram, _&c._ I should think a very proper time to sow, or plant -them, would be when you set, or plant hedges, or when plashed, or the -banks fresh made up, or in pastures where Ant-hills are dug up and -carried away, to sow them in the places they are dug from; It must -certainly be an improvement of the first kind, to clear a Farm of all -sorts of noxious and poisonous Plants and Weeds, and stocking them -with such as are healthful salutary and medicinal.--Trefoil & white -Clover are esteemed exceeding good Grasses for producing Milk. But the -highest encomium is given to Saintfoin Grass, as being superior to any -other.--An _Essex_ Farmer who is a correspondent in the _Bath_ Society -for promoting Agriculture, thus describes it; “As the roots strike deep -in our chalky soil, this plant is not liable to be so much injured -by drought as other Grasses whose fibres shoot horizontally and lie -near the surface, the quantity of Hay produced is greater, and better -in quality than any other, but there is one advantage attends this -Grass, which renders it superior to any, and that arises from feeding -it with Milch Cows, the prodigious increase of Milk which it makes is -astonishing, being near double that produced by any other food. The -Milk is also better and yields more Cream than any other; I give you -this information from my own observation, confirmed by long experience, -and if Farmers would make trial they would find their account in it far -more than they expect.” - -It is a pretty general opinion, that Saintfoin thrives only on -up-lands, that lie near a rock, lime-stone, chalk or strong gravel; the -reason given is, the roots strike so deep in the Earth, that unless it -meets a check it seldom flourishes. That such Land, being rocky, or -very shallow hungry soil that will scarce bear any other sorts of Grass -does produce great crops of Saintfoin, I have many times observed in -different Counties; but as I meet with various Authors who say, that -notwithstanding that advantage there is in it, preferable to any other -Grass, yet it always thrives best in a rich good soil, which makes me -imagine it has seldom had a fair trial, and if the advantage as a Dairy -Grass is so great, it is highly worth the Dairy-man’s notice. - -We find many Farmers very industrious to improve their breed of Cattle, -and set much store on blood and fashion. The Dairy-man’s chief concern -should be to have Cows with good Bags, or Udders; that yield a quantity -of Milk; and it is well known, by persons who keep but one or two -Cows, that there is a material difference in the richness of Milk in -Cows, and that when they set up the Milk of different Cows, they find, -one shall yield a much larger quantity of Cream than another; and many -are known not only to yield more Milk, but even much better than the -Cow which gives less; this is an useful remark to a Dairy-man as the -quantity of rich Milk is the support of his undertaking, and must in -the end pay more than the fine form of Cattle, which may be of more -consequence to the feeding Grazier; and great care should be taken that -the Cows are Milked clean, as many good Cows are spoiled by suffering -Milk to remain in the Udder; which will cause the Cow daily to give -less and less, till at length she will become dry before the proper -time, and will be very apt to give but little Milk the next season. It -is observed in Fairs, that the people from _Wiltshire_ and other Dairy -Counties, who buy Cows, always make a large bag in a Milking Cow, their -first object, and those that buy Cattle for feeding pay very little -regard to it, prefering a good carcase; as Dairy-men are generally -the breeders of Calves, it should be their first object, to breed from -Cows, which produce the best and largest quantity of Milk, and supply -their own Dairy with that breed. I have often heard Dairy-men remark, -that Cows are apt to give more Milk on the land they are bred upon, -than others who come from a distant soil. I would always recommend to -every Dairy-man, wherever it is in his power, to convey running streams -into his Dairy-ground,--to encourage his Cows to frequent scowers in -Brooks, or running Streams; Cows certainly like clear Water best, and -it always produces most Milk; and keeping them cool, the Milk is much -easier made into Cheese, or Butter. When Cheese goes from the Press, -let it be kept in as warm a state as you can, till it has had a sweat, -or is got pretty regularly dry, and stiffish: It is warmth that makes -Cheese ripe, improves the colour, and causes Cheese to cut flakey, the -surest sign of excellent quality; which is very clear to those who know -the great difference there is in Cheese that has gone by Sea in the -Summer-time to _London_, or any distant Port on our Coast, having been -thoroughly heated on Ship-board, by the heat of the Season, and such -large quantities being in the same apartment. I dare say any Person who -has eat Cheese in the finest Dairys in _Cheshire_, and also in a Tavern -in _London_, when the same sort of Cheese has undergone the heat of -a Ship, and afterwards been laid in a Wine-cellar to cool gradually, -and make it Mellow, (which is allowed to be the best situation for -finishing Cheese, it not being exposed to harsh Winds, or chilling -Air,) such Person must allow the Warmth it has received, improves the -flavor and richness of the Cheese to a superlative degree. I would -recommend, where it can be avoided, that hard Cheese is not kept in -the same Room with the soft, as a dampness that arises from the new -moist Cheese, is a detriment to the improving state the hard Cheese -is getting into, making it very apt to chill, and get thick-coated, -and often spotted; in some measure there is an analogy with the fine -flavoured Fruit, this being the Season that Cheese may be supposed to -come to its flavor, and the foul damp that falls from the exhalation -of the soft Cheese greatly retards it, and being deprived of a chearing -Warmth, will never become excellent. Cheese never tastes agreeably -till it has had a sweat, such as is always kept in a cold state eats -chill, flat-tasted and insipid; a south aspect, or a Room over a -Kitchen-fire is much best, till Cheese is got tollerably hard and had -a sweat; a cool shady Room, or even a Plaster-floor is best after it -has had a sweat, till such Time as the Weather gets too cool. Cheese -very seldom heaves or gets puffy after it has had a sweat and got cool -again; the fat that melts with heat, closes the pores of Cheese made -open by harsh Air, and keeps it mellow afterwards. The sweat of Cheese -should not be rubbed off, or scraped off, unless it has sweat to a -violent degree, as it keeps the Cheese mellow and always improves the -flavour. To have every excellence it must have every advantage.--In -_Wilts_, _Gloucestershire_, and some part of _Warwickshire_, most -people wash their Cheese, putting it in a little warm Water or Whey -to soften the swarthy-coat occasioned by the Cheese-cloth, or not -being rubbed when it begins to get coated; then they rub it off with a -Brush, and afterward lay it to dry, or sweat before it is laid in the -cooler apartment; many prefer rubbing it with a hair-cloth, beginning -with it when Cheese is fit to handle, and not wash it. If Cheese is -designed for going by Sea, or for speedy consumption, I think washing -is preferable, care being taken not to send it off too soft, as that -exposes it to crack, then the Fly takes it, and Maggots breeding in -it damages your Cheese. When Cheese is designed to be kept long in -the Dairy, if kept well cleaned, I prefer the other method, as the -coat preserves it, keeps it mellow and improves the Flavor. Frost is -very detrimental to Cheese if permitted to get into it, especially, -soft young Cheese; care should be taken to keep the Windows close in -hard frosty Weather; many will cover it with (and even lay it in) -Peas-straw in severe Seasons. I have known all the good qualities of -Cheese annihilated or taken away, by being Frost-bitten when Young; -it is apt to turn black as if made with sooty Milk, and not have the -least taste of Salt, or any relish remain. It is a very common method -to scald Cheese, either in the Curd, or in the Cheese; the former I -quite disapprove, the design being only to settle the Curd which has -not had Time given it to sink solid in the Tub, which if done, will -want no scalding; boiling Water, or boiling Whey poured upon it will -set the Curd in some degree, and fix it hard, but then it always leaves -it Tough and Horny-coated, if it is scalded to any great degree; more -time taken in bringing the Curd, and having the Milk of a proper -warmth, will render this whole proceeding quite needless. People are -only seeking a remedy for a fault which they had no sort of occasion to -have been troubled with. Scalding Cheese after it has been in the Press -is of some advantage to Cheese that is to go by Sea, that, only being -to set the coat and toughen it, is not so much exposed to bruising, and -the heat of the Ship recovers it again to its proper state by removing -that toughness which scalding gave it; but Cheese for Country Trade, -is hurt by scalding, making it Tough and Horny-coated. If Cheese gets -too hard that has been scalded, the best way to recover it, is to lay -it in a heap, four, five, or six Cheeses high, in a cool room, stirring -and removing every Cheese once in two or three Days, till it is got -mellow. In many Counties, as _Lincoln_, _Huntington_, _Bedford_, _&c._ -People take very great pains to make bad Cheese, if a good Dairy-woman -happens to come amongst them that sells Cheese for a much greater Price -than they can, yet they will follow their own method; perhaps, some few -of them at least, when they come to see Dairying plainly delineated, -may have some inclination to alter their Plan, unless they prefer bad -Cheese to good. - -Many may wish to know what is a proper Size for Cheese Vats for Trade. -For Cheese of the _Gloucester_ make, we reckon that Vats--15 Inches -Wide by 2¼ Inches Deep to make Cheese, Eleven to the Hundred Weight. - - 15½ Inches by 2½ to make Tens. - 16 Inches by 2½ to make Nines. - 16½ Inches by 2½ to make Eights. - 16½ Inches by 2¾ to make Sevens, &c. - -Since writing the account of the Maw-skin, I have heard of a Plant -called the Runnet-Plant; it is the first Time I ever heard the Name -of it or the least hint concerning it. I am informed the _Jews_ make -all their Cheese with it; their Law not permitting them to mingle Meat -with Milk, which term they apply to making Cheese with Maw-skin, I have -frequently seen _Jew_ Cheese, but never saw any that I thought good -or tollerably so, makes me imagine it is the necessity of principle -only, that promotes its Use, but as I am an entire Stranger to the -process, shall be greatly obliged to any one who will favour me with -any particulars concerning it, with its qualities and manner of Use.[6] - -I am favour’d with a Letter from a Friend whose veracity I can depend -on, acquainting me of another species of Runnet-plant, imagining my -former information was not right, and that the Dairy-plant was of a -different kind to that I had described--sending at the same time some -plants, for my inspection--called spear-grass, and also the method -of using it, as practised by a very good Dairy-woman in the County -of _Derby_ for many Years, whose Dairy was in the highest credit in -the neighbourhood, where she lived, hoping the Public might receive -benefit by the publication of it, the receipt is as follows.--Take -Spear-grass, and as much cold water as will cover the Grass, boil it -over a slow Fire for an hour, put to it salt in proportion, of half a -peck to six gallons of Liquor, then cover it up till cold, then strain -it and add three Maw-skins to each gallon, let it stand nine or ten -days, then bottle it, use a table spoonful for a Cheese of fifteen or -sixteen pounds; but more or less may be used at discretion. From this -receipt a very useful remark may be made: I have frequently enquired of -Dairy-women who made their Runnet for keeping, what quantity of Skin -they us’d, and have generally understood it to be about two Skins to -a gallon of Water, but I have always thought that must be too little, -here we find three Skins is recommended, even added to the decoction -of Spear-grass, which must certainly be a powerful help to the Runnet; -’tis observ’d also in the receipt, that a table spoon-full may be used -for a Cheese of fifteen or sixteen pounds, which I imagine must be as -much as twelve or fourteen Cows Milk; if even two or three spoon-fulls -will do for that quantity of Milk it must be of a very powerful -fermenting quality, and leads me to imagine that Runnet in general, is -certainly made too weak; and that if by the above method, or by the -addition of spices as recommended by _Mr. Hazard_, a much stronger -Runnet is made; it must greatly quicken the coagulation and be a means -of bringing the Cheese properly, in shorter time than that in present -use, and might probably be sufficient if the Milk stand an hour, or at -most an hour and half, which would fully reconcile my plan of sinking -Cheese to those who may think the only difficulty attending it, is -requiring too much time. - -Spear-grass is a very common plant, grows chiefly on moist land, or -by pit sides, often in lanes, it is an upright stem, inclin’d to a -redish brown, mixt with green, the leaves are spear-shaped growing up -the stalk, a bright yellow flower with five petals, of the crow foot -form, blossoms in _May_ and _June_; this is doubtless a good plant for -improving the Runnet, it being of a hot nature, and having been used -so many Years with good success is a great recommendation--but this -cannot be the plant before described to me, and which I have found -in different Authors, called yellow ladies bed-straw, goose-grass or -Cheese Renning, nor does the Runnet made with it answer to the ends -proposed in making _Jew_ Cheese. - -I should imagine the best time to collect the Spear-grass for making -Runnet, must be when it is in full Flower, which may be very apt to -help the colour as well as give firmness to the Cheese. I have not a -doubt but Runnet made with this plant, in the manner above described, -will be a considerable improvement in Cheese-making, and should be glad -to hear of its having a fair trial, it appears to me to be the most -likely thing to correct the mischief caused by Slip-curd. - -Having now gone through the design of the work, and laid down such -observations on the principal concerns of Dairying, so far as relates -to Cheese-making, as occur to my remembrance, I take my leave of it, -hoping in general it will be found useful and expedient, and before -I conclude, earnestly recommend it to such Dairy-women who find any -difficulty in their proceedings in the business of Cheese-making, or -wish to improve their make of Cheese, that they will, well weigh every -part of the subject, and make trial of the whole process, as stated in -its different parts. As I am well convinced, by repeated trials that -if the plan I have laid down is observed with care, it will not fail -to make good Cheese. And though it may be objected by many, the length -of time of the Milk standing for Curd, yet so complete will the state -of the Curd be, that you will often times more than save that time in -crushing, as it will be finished in half the time, that bad Curd will -take, and by the extra weight of Cheese, that time will give, will -at length repay all your trouble; I well know, many Dairy-women are -partial to some particular method, or nostrum of their own, or their -mothers, or neighbour such a one who was a famous Dairy-woman, as being -preferable to all others, in which they often fail of success, in -some respect by having omitted to observe the exact minutia of their -practice. As a very small omission, in time, or method, sometimes -leads them into a labyrinth, which they very rarely ever get out of, -and causes them more vexation and perplexity, than if they had never -known any thing about it. Or, if their’s be a good method and very -practicable, perhaps it is possible there may be a better, or easier -means of proceeding, that will render their Plan quite needless. - -I hope that those who wish to improve from my instructions, will give -it a fair Trial, if any at all; they need not say they are left in the -Dark in any part of it, as every particular is made plain and most of -them repeated, as precept upon precept, and line upon line. Let them -be particular however in the main concerns, such as the proper warmth -of the Milk, the goodness, and use of the Maw-skin, to give it Time -enough in the Tub, or Cheese-pan, to keep the Cheese warm when young, -and cool afterwards; then I think they will scarce fail of making good -Cheese. If they mean to excel, and make fine Cheese--and why not?--Then -I refer them to the more minute Observations of the Work, and I wish -and hope, that they will find their Pains well bestowed, and afford -them both Comfort and Profit. I doubt not but methods used in different -Counties vary a good deal. Some perhaps may be pointed out that are -preferable to some of mine, and if any Person will be kind enough to -point them out to me, or shew me where any thing has been omitted, or -Error committed, if another Edition should be called for, I shall very -willingly communicate them to the Public. - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - -ON BUTTER. - - -Butter is an Article in very general use, and numerous are the people -employed in making it; and is in great esteem; from observations I have -made, it admits of very little variation in the method of preparing, -which methods are so generally known, require very little commentary -upon them; I profess not to understand them, and therefore shall say -very little about it. What little I have remarked in conversing with -Dairy-women, is, that care should be taken to set up your Milk when -it is of a proper warmth--Milk-warm is the best, regulated the same -as for rendling Cheese, applying a little cold Water if too hot, and -either warm Water or Milk if too cold; many think Water best, saying, -it will throw up Cream sooner; to take care the Utensils it is set up -in, are exceeding clean--the utility of which I think is clearly made -appear by observing the effect of a contrary remark in making Whey -Butter.--Indolence, finds out many ways which Industry never thought -of.--Some Butter-Women, whose care is, more, to make a large quantity, -than regard the quality, or flavour of Butter, will tell you, that sour -Whey, yields more Cream than sweet, and it immediately turns sour, by -putting it into the Pans you poured the last meal’s Whey from, without -washing them. But in making good Butter, great care must be taken to -prevent the Cream’s being sour, or your Butter will be ill flavoured, -and will keep good but a very little time--That lead Pans are preferred -to every thing, in throwing up, or rising the Cream from Milk. Not to -let the Milk stand too long before it is skimmed, especially in hot -weather.--If it must stand two meals, it had better be skimmed twice, -than to let it stand the whole time for one skimming, as the Milk often -turns sour before the expiration of two meals; and if the last meal -should change, you may then be enabled to keep all the sweet Cream by -itself.--The less time the Cream stands before it is churned, the -finer flavoured and sweeter your Butter will be. - -Nothing is more commendable in a Dairy-maid than cleanliness, -nor will any thing cause them to be more esteemed; every one who -perceives extream neatness in a Dairy, cannot help wishing to purchase -either Butter or Cheese from so clean and neat a place, and would -gladly give a higher price, rather than be exposed to the chance of -sluttish nastiness, too common in many Dairys. It is remarked by many -Travellers, that in the _Isle_ of _Wight_, nothing is more pleasing -than to see the exceeding neatness of their Dairys; it very rarely goes -unnoticed, and to a delicate taste, scarce any thing affords greater -pleasure. - -As Butter is become a very considerable Article of Trade, it is highly -proper every means should be rendered to make it as complete and -perfect as possible; it is very different in regard to purchasers of -large quantities of Butter, who must take lots as they happen, and in -which very often a considerable part of them are very inferior to what -they ought to be, and to buyers of fresh Butter in Markets; who can see -and taste it before they buy, which is a caution to the makers to have -it well made, knowing it will be inspected before sold, those who put -it into Casks or Firkins, for distant sale, are apt not to be so very -careful about it. I have heard frequent enquiry by Cheese-mongers, or -dealers in Butter, what is the cause of Salt Butter being so subject to -get rank, strong tasted, or rancid, or what some people call a fishy -taste, which is a very great detriment to dealers in Butter, and the -cause of the complaint much wants to be known; being well acquainted -that the complaint is very frequent, has often led me to enquire into -the cause when an opportunity has offered, being lately conversing -with a person on the subject, he said it was very common in _Suffolk_ -& _Yorkshire_, to heat the Milk before it was set up for Cream, which -is done in order to increase the quantity of Cream. It is well known -that every fat substance that is heated, will in course of time turn -rancid, or reezy, that when Butter, of the last year, or a year old, is -in the Cask through the Summer, the heat will affect it, and so far -as the heat gets into it, will reeze or become of a tallowy nature, -fat Bacon will reeze so far as the fat melts; and the heating of Milk -must certainly alter the nature of it, and in course of time will cause -the Butter to turn rancid, and ill tasted. I have heard it observed by -a person who is used to buy fresh Butter that was made of heated, or -clouted Cream, (which is a method much used in some parts of the South -of England) that it is very apt to get strong and will keep good but -a very little time. So that from all remarks I have been capable of -making, it seems clear to me that the badness or foulness of Butter, is -chiefly owing to the Milk being heated, and is a hint worth the enquiry -of the public, especially large dealers in Butter, in order that some -method may be taken to prevent an evil that is become so very prevalent. - -A friend who has been much used to Dairying, lately communicated to me -a method to give Winter made Butter, which is often made from Fodder, -either Hay or Straw, the countenance and relish of Summer Butter, -made in the prime of the Season; which is done by taking the juice of -carrots, being bruised, or pounded to a pulp & then press’d or squeezed -out, putting it into the Cream before Churn’d. And also, a method to -take off the disagreeable taste of Butter made from Turnips, viz. let -your Cream be warmed and poured into a Tub or Pail of cold Water, then -skim the Cream off the Water, which will rise to the top, the same -as in Milk, and by this means leave the foul taste behind it in the -Water, this last method will much improve Whey Butter, taking off the -disagreeable sourness that often attends it, and by adding the juice of -carrots as above, will help its colour and give it an agreeable relish, -and by this means you may salt Whey Butter, down in pots, that will -do very well for paste in Winter. In a very sensible, and practical -Essay printed in the third Volume of the _Bath_ Society’s Letters and -Papers on Agriculture, &c. by _Mr. Hazard_, some useful remarks are -made on Dairying, and also on the Dairy-house, which he says, should -always be kept in the neatest order, and so situated, that the Windows -or Lattices never front the South, South-east or South-west; Lattices -are also prefer’d to Windows, as they admit a more free circulation -of Air, than glazed lights possible can do, and to prevent the cold -Air in Winter, a sliding frame coverd with oil’d cap paper, pasted on -packthread strained thereon, will admit the light and keep out the Sun -and Wind. It is hardly possible in the Summer to keep a Dairy-house too -cool, on which account none should be situated far from a good spring -or current of Water: They should be neatly paved with red brick or -smooth hard stone, and laid with a proper descent, so that no Water may -lodge, this pavement should be well wash’d in summer every day; and all -the Utensils belonging to the Dairy should be kept perfectly clean, nor -should the Churns even be suffer’d to be scalded in the Dairy as the -steam that arises from hot Water will injure the Milk, nor do I approve -of Cheese being kept therein, or Rennet for making Cheese, or having a -Cheese Press fixed in a Dairy, as the Whey and Curd will diffuse their -acidity throughout the Room. He is of opinion the proper receptacle for -Milk are Earthen-pans or Wooden-vats, but not lined with lead, as that -mineral certainly contains a poisonous quality and may in some degree -affect the Milk, but if people still persist in using them, he advises -that they never forget to scald them, scrub them well with salt and -Water and to dry them thoroughly before they deposit the Milk therein, -indeed all Utensils should be cleaned in like manner before they are -used, and if after this, they in the least degree smell sour, they -must undergo a second scrubbing before they are fit for use, he also -recommends Pans with a large-surface, or wide at top; during the Summer -Months he recommends skimming the Milk very early in the Morning before -the Dairy becomes warm, and not in the Evening till after Sun set; -churning he recommends to be done in a Morning before the Sun appears, -taking care to fix the churn where there is a free draft of Air, if a -pump churn be used it may be plunged a foot deep into a tub of cold -water to remain there the whole time of churning, which will very much -harden the Butter; a strong rancid flavour will be given to Butter, if -the churn be so near the fire as to heat the wood, in the Winter season. - -After Butter is churned, it should be washed in many different waters -till it is perfectly cleansed from the Butter-milk, but he observes a -warm hand will soften it and make it appear greasey: The Cheese-mongers -use two pieces of Wood (or Spaddles) for their Butter, and if those who -have a very hot hand were to have such, they might work the Butter, so -as to make it more saleable. - -Butter will require, and endure, more working in Winter than in Summer, -but he remarks he never knew any person, whose hand was warm by nature -make good Butter. - -Those who use a pump churn must endeavour to keep a regular stroke, nor -should they admit any person to assist them, except they keep nearly -the same stroke, for if they churn more slowly, the Butter will in -Winter, go back, as it is called, and if the stroke be more quick and -violent, in the Summer it will cause a fermentation, by which means -the Butter will imbibe a very disagreeable flavor. Where many Cows are -kept, a barrel churn is preferable, but it requires to be kept very -clean or the bad effects will be discover’d in the Butter, to be fixt -in a warm place in Winter, and where there is a free Air in the Summer. - -As many of my acquaintance wished to have an enlarged account, of the -Art of making Butter: I was very glad to have the opportunity, of -collecting these annex’d, which are most of them worthy observation, -and as I have before mention’d the method some people use in making -Butter from what is generally call’d clouted cream; I shall now give -you the process as laid down by _Mr. Hazard_. - -“In the first place, they deposit their Milk in Earthen-pans in their -Dairy-house, and (after they have stood twelve Hours in the Summer, and -double that space in the Winter) they remove them to stoves made for -that purpose, which stoves are filled with hot embers; on these they -remain till bubbles rise, and the Cream changes its colour, it is then -deem’d heated enough, and this they call scalded Cream, it is afterward -removed steadily to the Dairy, where it remains twelve Hours more, and -is then skimmed from the Milk and put into a Tub or Churn, if it be put -into a Tub, it is beat well with the hand, and thus they obtain Butter, -but a cleanlier way is to make use of a Churn; some scald it over the -fire, but then the smoke is apt to affect it, and in either case if the -pans touch the fire, they will crack or fly, and the Milk and Cream be -wasted.” - -Dairy-women are oft times much perplex’d when churning, by having the -Butter very long in coming, the cause of which I have never heard -properly explain’d, some think the Cream was too cold, sometimes it -is thought too hot, many observe that an irregular motion in churning -prevents its coming properly, as before remark’d by _Mr. Hazard_, but -there seems to be a more powerful chemical cause; from observing -common causes, I should imagine there is an alcaline salt in old Milk, -which sometimes overcomes the oily part of the Cream when agitated by -the motion of churning, so as to prevent the Butter, separating in -the churn, the cure for which seems to be, to reduce the alcali to a -neuteral state, which effect, Acids are known to have, or at least -alcalies on Acids, as is common; when Beer gets sour or much Acid, to -recover it by putting a little salt of Tartar, salt of Worm-wood or any -other powerful alcali into it, immediately recovers it to its usual -state, and neither the acid nor alcali are perceived in the Beer, being -made neuteral by their union. - -I am much pleas’d to find my opinion seconded, and put in practice by -an anonimous Author in the _Bath_ Papers, who was very earnest to find -out a remedy that would hasten the operation in churning, and from a -very pertinent idea that led him to weigh the matter, seems to have -found out the real cause of the obstruction, met with in the work, -and also a remedy, which many Dairy-women will be very happy to be -inform’d of, as the Author justly observes, it will shorten the Labour -of many a weary Arm, and prevent much vexation to a multitude of good -House-wives. - -He observes, that when the operation of churning had been going forward -for half a Day, he caused a little distilled Vinegar to be poured into -the churn, and the Butter was produced within an Hour afterwards. - -He also remarks upon the subject, that if the supposition be admitted, -that the Cream of old Milk (and such is Milk for the most part in -Winter,) contains much stronger alcaline salt, or at least more of it -than new Milk does, then the effect of the Vinegar is readily accounted -for on the known principles of Chymistry, it is an acknowledged -property of alcalies to unite with oil into a saponaceous (or soapy) -mass, and to render them intimately miscible with water. But it is -likewise well known to chemists that there is a nearer affinity (as -they Term it) a much stronger elective attraction between acids and -alcalies than between alcalies and oils; consequently the acids being -mixed with the Cream, immediately attaches to itself the alcaline salt, -which is the bond of union, as we may call it, that holds together -the oleaginous (oily) and aqueous (watery) particles, and leaves them -easily separable from each other. It may perhaps be objected to this -mode of practice that the acid mixing with the Cream, would render the -Butter unpalatable; but this on experience I do not find to be the -case, and indeed I should not my self have expected it, as the Butter -is usually well washed in two or three changes of clean Water, by which -the whole of the acid is carried off, or if some few particles remain, -they are so few as not to be perceiv’d by the taste & perhaps have -rather a desirable effect than otherwise, by acting as an antiseptic, -(preventing putrefaction) and preventing the Butter from becoming -rancid so soon as it otherwise would do; he adds, my experiments -have not as yet ascertained the exact quantity of the acid which is -necessary to produce the proper effect, nor the precise time of its -being mix’d with the Cream. But I apprehend a table spoonful or two to -a gallon of Cream will be sufficient; nor would I recommend it to be -applied, till the Cream has undergone some considerable agitation. - -After having so much interested myself in endeavouring the improvement -of Dairying, I am unwilling to take my final leave of it, without -adding my sincere wish, that the increase of Dairy-Farms, may meet with -every encouragement from the Public, as it appears to me, a matter of -the first consequence to this Nation. The price of Butter & Cheese -having so much increased within a few years, makes it quite necessary -to give every encouragement to the increase of Dairying, as it plainly -appears, there is not near a sufficiency of those Articles for general -use, and every endeavour to increase the quantity must be for the -Public good, if we only consider how large a quantity of Butter is -imported into England every Year, and yet the price still continues -to advance; it is astonishing to think that there is annually great -quantities of Grain of different kinds imported into the Kingdom, while -such a prodigious quantity of Land lies waste in commons or that are -of very little benefit to the community in general; also, how many -thousand People (both young and old) are now unemploy’d, who might -find sufficient support, if encouragement was given for improving of -Land for different purposes, and growth of numerous materials which -now takes our Money abroad, such as Rhubarb, Liquorish, Madder, Woad, -Teasels, Flax, Hemp, &c. As a plan for improvement in Husbandry, seems -much to prevail at present in this Kingdom, as if in emulation, to keep -pace with the Arts, and ingenuity discoverable in many of our capital -Manufactures in the present Age, so superior to those of former times -and which are still improving in a very great degree, so from the -various Societies connected in different parts of this Kingdom, for the -benefit and improvement of Agriculture, great knowledge is acquired -and made Public for the general advantage of community, and if the -same spirit would animate Gentlemen in common, who doubtless are the -people that will receive the greatest advantage from the inclosure of -commons, it would be a noble example, and discover a true patriotic -spirit, if they would undertake the improvement of the Lands, which -may be inclos’d, and who have it more in their power, especially where -small Farms are necessary, (than the peasant to whom they may be let, -and who, when they are made useful can perhaps best employ them for -the Public good,) they would then be well repaid for their trouble, -be setting a noble example to posterity, making a fortune for their -Family, at the same time they are enabling numbers to gain a livelihood -by their means, and what is there in Life that would more endear them -to their Country, than such a benevolent disposition. I have not a -doubt but the proportion of large Farms throughout this Kingdom is -too great for the small ones, and if the inclosure of commons should -take place, there would be a proper opportunity to equalize them, by -making a larger number of small Farms of different degrees, from 20 -Acres to 50, from 50 to 100 and from 100 to 150, for tho’ it is from -large Farms, that our principal supply of provisions must arise, yet -it certainly is from the small Farms that our Markets are chiefly -supply’d with the common necessaries, such as Butter, Eggs, Fowls, -Pigs, Pigeons, Fruit and many other common necessaries of human Life, -and the more small and moderate siz’d Farms there are, the better will -all Markets be supplied. I have not a doubt but if Gentlemen would -undertake the management of new enclosures, great improvement might -be made from the Horse-hove, and drill Husbandry so much commended by -many of the _Bath_ Society correspondents, as well as those of _Arthur -Young, Esq._; and from the advantage proposed thereby of improving -Land by those methods, with very little manure, if Gentlemen would -thoroughly adopt that method upon a large scale of practice, doubtless -it would become universal, and from the great quantity of Seed proposed -to be saved by this method, and a larger crop produced, must in the -end be a very great advantage to this Nation; many may object, that -the inclosed commons, will very little of it become Dairy-Land for a -considerable time; yet it will certainly come in, in time, and the -more Arable Land is brought into use, certainly the greater proportion -of Grass Land may be spared for the Dairy. One great impediment to -inclosures is the great expence of Acts of Parliament, this might be -remedied in a great measure, if Government would grant one general -Act for inclosing commons throughout the Kingdom, under the direction -of County Committees, which might be appointed for that purpose at a -moderate expence, and fully answer the design, but as a hint at the -improvement, is the only thing I can advance toward it, yet, like the -Widows mite, I would not with hold it, as it may encourage more capable -Persons to take it in hand. - -[Illustration] - - - - -[Illustration] - - - - -_SOME ACCOUNT_, OF NOXIOUS, BITTER, and POISONOUS, PLANTS. - - -Ribwort, ribbed grass, black plantain or cock plant; this plant may -not properly be ranged among bitter plants, it not being bitter to -any great degree, but I have often thought upon examination, that the -bitterness in some Cheese more resembles the taste of this plant and -dandelion than any other whatsoever, and in barren soils they are apt -to prevail more than any other. - -Arsmart, or lakeweed, is a bitter plant, well known; ’tis said to -produce an essential oil, or oil extracted by distillation, which I -should imagine more likely to affect the bitterness of Milk than colder -plants, it is apt to grow very strong after being mowed, and I have -not observed that Cows refuse or leave it untouched more than other -plants in common. I think this plant much more likely to cause the -bitterness of Butter in _Autumn_ than the falling leaves to which it is -generally referred, though many people are of opinion that Cows eating -ash leaves in _Autumn_, causes the bitterness in Butter. - -Meadow sweet--is a bitterish plant that Cows are fond of, especially -the sort that grows on up-lands, commonly called drop-wort, the -meadow sweet of low-meadows is a sort they do not readily feed on where -there is plenty of Grass. - -Centaury, lesser centaury or gentian, is an extream bitter plant, bears -a pale red blossom with many florets, or pips, on an upright stem in -old Pastures, blows from _June_ to _August_, I should imagine it must -be hurtful in Dairy-ground being a very penetrating bitter. - -Hemlock, with stems and branches, spotted with brown, or black, -and white flower; the whole plant is poisonous, it grows in hedges, -orchards, or among rubbish, and is very common. - -Henbane, with blossoms purple & brown--indented leaves, embracing or -cleaving to the stem, grows on road sides or among rubbish, the seeds, -roots, and leaves taken internally are all poisonous. - -Nightshade, grows in moist brakes and hedges, with bluish blossoms, -sometimes inclined to flesh colour, sometimes white. - -Deadly nightshade--dwale--or belladonna is the worst specie, growing in -woods, hedges, among lime-stone or rubbish; the stem is herbaceous or -of a herby nature, the leaves, spear, or halbert shaped, the flowers -of a bluish purple with a bright yellow thrum, chives, or pointal, -appearing like the snuff of an expiring Candle, the berries grow in -very handsome bunches, first green, then a fine red, next a beautiful -black, are very tempting to Children having cost many their Lives, -causing stupor, delirium, and convulsions, and are certain Death if not -prevented by timely and plentiful vomiting; this plant cannot be too -well known being so very common in most Countries, and so tempting, -both to Children and Cattle. - -Cow-bane, water-virosa, or water-hemlock--with rundles or flower -branches opposite the leaves, leaf-stalks with blunt borders, with -about seven pair of little leaves, which are variously divided and -indented, petals, or leaf of the flower, yellowish pale green, grows -in shallow waters, is a perennial plant, or that continues from year -to year, blows in _July_; this is one of the rankest of our vegetable -poisons; numerous instances are recorded of its Fatality to the human -species; an account of it may be seen and an engraving in Martin’s -Philosophical Transactions, Vol. 10. Early in the spring when it grows -in the water, Cows often eat it and are killed by it, but as the Summer -advances and its smell becomes stronger, they carefully avoid it; -though a certain fatal poison to Cows, Goats devour it greedily and -with impunity, Horses and Sheep eat it with safety. - -Cow-weed, or wild Cecily, grows in hedges, blows in _May_, or _June_, -with white flowers, roots like a Parsnip, and is very poisonous. - -Water-wort, Water-hemlock, or Water-skeleton, is esteem’d a fatal -poison to Horses, occasioning them to become paralytick, which is owing -to an insect called _Curcutia Paraplecticus_, which generally inhabits -within the stem; the usual antidote is pig’s dung, the branches of the -leaves stradling--stem very thick, hollow, scored, petals or flowers -white, grows in rivers, ditches and pools, blossoms in _June_; in the -Winter the roots and stem dissected by the influence of the weather, -afford a curious skeleton, or network. - -Kex, or water-parsnip, with white flowers in _July_ or _August_, grows -in rivers and fens, is very noxious to Cattle; also the lesser Kex -called upright water-parsnip, in rivers and ditches, is very common; -blossoms in _July_ and _August_, leaves halbert shaped, rundles or -flower-branch opposite the leaves. - -Drop-wort, or dead tongue, grows on the banks of rivers, bears a white -flower in _June_, the petals or leaves of the flower sharp--bent -inwards, tips purple or brown--the whole of this plant is poisonous, -the stem is a yellowish red, the leaves smooth, streaked, jagged at -the edges, the root is the rankest and most virulent of all vegetable -poisons. - -Mithridate--or penny-cress, grows in corn fields with oblong leaves, -toothed, smooth, white blossoms; the whole plant has something of a -garlick flavour, the seeds have the acrimony or sharpness of mustard; -Cows are rather fond of it, and I should think their Milk is often -affected by it. - -Penny-wort, or white-rot, grows in marshy springy ground, with a pale -red flower, blows in _May_; many Farmers suppose it occasions the rot -in Sheep, but I should expect that complaint proceeds from a very -different cause; though, if flowks that are supposed to be the certain -cause of the Rot, or the spawn of them, are taken in with the food -of Sheep, as some imagine, it is possible the Ova, or Eggs of this -Insect may be deposited in this plant, which to know, may be worth the -Farmer’s enquiry. - - -_Some Account of the_ RUNNET-PLANT. - -Yellow Verum--Goose-grass; the Leaves growing by eights, or eight -leaves round the stem, strap-shaped--furrowed--the flowering branches -short, blossoms yellow. - -English Names, are yellow ladies bed-straw or Cheese Renning, or -petty muguet; it grows in dry ground, on road sides, very common, is -perennial, blows in _July_ or _August_. The flowers will coagulate -boiling Milk, and some _Cheshire_ Cheese is said to be made with them; -according to an experiment from _Borrchius_ they yield an Acid by -distillation. The _French_ prescribe them in hysterick and epileptick -cases, boiled in Allum-water they tinge wool yellow, the roots dye a -very fine red, not inferior to Madder and are used for this purpose in -the _Island_ of _Jura_. See _Pennant’s Tour_, 1772, Page 214. Sheep and -Goats eat it, Horses and Swine refuse it, Cows are not fond of it. If -the roots will answer the same purpose as Madder it highly merits the -observation of _Calico Printers_ and others, who use large quantities -of that Article, as it is the most common weed, and what in the month -of _July_, there is more of, than any other weed, and if the flowers -will dye yellow, and make Cheese, it must be a very valuable Plant and -be a great help to the Poor to collect it, as it grows on all road -sides, old pastures and hedges in great abundance. - -I have omitted giving the Latin names of Plants, not having sufficient -knowledge in that Language; but such of my learned readers who with for -that addition, may refer either to _Dr. Withering’s_, or other books on -_Botany_, to _Chambers_, _Croker_, or other Dictionaries. - - -_FINIS._ - - - - -[Illustration] - - - - -INDEX. - - - A. - - Page. - - Annatto, 68 - - Arsmart, 95, 135 - - Alcaline, 127 - - - B. - - Bulged Cheese, 58 - - Blister’d Ditto, 35 - - Blue-pared Ditto, 52, 85 - - Brine drippings, 43 - - Bull Cheese, 45 - - Breaking-curd, 48, 49, 86 - - Bitter Cheese, 95 - - Breeders of Cows, 101 - - Butter, 116 - - Brick-bat Cheese, 63 - - - C. - - Curd, 14, 90 - - Cow described, 17 - - Curdly Cheese, 59 - - Cream Cheese, 64 - - Colouring Cheese, 66, 71 - - Cheese from poor Land, 88 - - ---- from Clover, 94 - - ---- from any Land, 79 - - Cheese-Powder, 56 - - Cheese Press, 98 - - Cheese Vats, 108 - - Centaury, 136 - - Cow-Bane, 138 - - Cow-Weed, 139 - - Chill Cheese, 31, 65 - - Cochineal, 72 - - Correspondence, 90, 109 - - Cheese Chamber, 104 - - - D. - - Dry Cracks, 12, 59, 84 - - Dairy-women, 11, 15, 72 - - Dairying, 16 - - Dairy-Ground, 26 - - Drop-Wort, 140 - - Dairy-House, 122 - - - E. - - Eyes in Cheese, 11, 32 - - - F. - - Fermentation, 33 - - Fixt Air, 33, 34, 54, 94 - - Foul Air, 55, 93 - - Flavour, 104, 105 - - Frost, 64, 106 - - Flakey Cheese, 51, 66, 103 - - - G. - - General quantity of Cheese, 21, 24 - - Green Whey, 52 - - - H. - - Hove Cheese, 34, 54, 105 - - Husky Coated Cheese, 12 - - Harsh Air, 55 - - Hemlock, 136 - - Henbane, 137 - - Honey-comb Cheese, 33 - - - J. - - Jointed Cheese, 53, 85 - - - K. - - Kex, 139 - - - L. - - Loose Cheese, 33, 35 - - - M. - - Milk, 17, 18, 26, 98, 102 - - ---- carried in Churns, 26, 84 - - Milk-warm, 28 - - Maw-Skin, 36, 41, 43 - - ---- way to make them, 42 - - Marigold Cheese, 71 - - Meadow Sweet, 138 - - Mithridate, 140 - - - N. - - Noxious Plants, 12, 95, 98 - - Night Shade, 137 - - Nitre, 56 - - - P. - - Parsley Cheese, 67 - - Poisonous Plants, 95, 97 - - Pasturage, 13, 96 - - Penny-Cress, 140 - - Penny Wort, 140 - - - Q. - - Quantity of Cheese from the same Milk, 8, 80, 92 - - Quantity of Cheese made, 22, 81 - - - R. - - Rank Cheese, 12, 54, 55, 90 - - Rotten Cheese, 54 - - Rendling Milk, 27, 33, 42, 81 - - Running Streams, 22, 103 - - Runnet-Plant, 109, 110 - - Rib Wort, 135 - - Runnet to make, 43, 52, 110 - - - S. - - Sweet Cheese, 51, 77 - - Spongy Cheese, 54 - - Split Cheese, 57 - - Salting in Milk, 28, 30, 58 - - Salting in Curd, 57 - - Spear-Grass, 111 - - Slip-Curd, 31, 35, 50, 61, 65 - - Sunk Cheese, 47, 89 - - Sunk coated Cheese, 59 - - Skimmed Cheese, 60, 61, 65 - - Sage Cheese, 71 - - Salutary Plants, 99 - - Saintfoin Grass, 100 - - Scalding Cheese, 107 - - Slip-coat Cheese, 62, 65 - - - T. - - Time in Earning, 14, 31, 45, 47, 61 - - Tears, 32 - - Two-meal Cheese, 60 - - Turnip Butter, 121 - - - W. - - Whey Springs, 11, 32 - - Warmth of Milk, 28, 29 - - Warming Milk, 30, 31 - - Warmth, 61, 103, 104 - - Washing Cheese, 105 - - White Whey, 52 - - Water-wort, 139 - - - - -ERRATA. - - - Page 127 line 2d for Alclaine, read Alcaline. - ---- 127 line 9th for Alcalics, read Alcalies. - - - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] By the Term Milk-warm, is not here to be understood, the Warmth -that it has on coming from the Cow, as that varies according to the -Heat of the Body of the Cow, at the Time of Milking, but a Warmth, a -few degrees removed from Coolness; a degree of Warmth, in general well -understood. - -[2] Your Cheese will afterwards want a less quantity of Salt, than if -none had been put in the Milk; enough to settle it, and make it firm in -the Press, will be sufficient. - -[3] This term, Tears, plainly indicates, that it has been usually -understood in this light, being the Tears of the Eye. - -[4] Synonimous Terms. - -[5] A description of noxious Plants, will be found at the end of the -Book. - -[6] The Plant is described amongst others at the end of this Book. - - - - -AGRICULTURAL BOOKS - -_PRINTED FOR J. HARDING_, - -36, ST. JAMES’S-STREET, LONDON. - - -_This Day is published, in One Volume Royal Quarto, Price 2l. 2s._ - -_Boards_, - -THE RURAL ARCHITECT; - -CONSISTING OF VARIOUS - -DESIGNS FOR COUNTRY BUILDINGS; - -ACCOMPANIED WITH - -GROUND-PLANS, ESTIMATES, AND DESCRIPTIONS. - -By JOSEPH GANDY, Architect, A.R.A. - -Author of “Designs for Cottages,” &c. - - -PRINCIPAL CONTENTS. - - Cottages of the most simple form and economical - construction--House of Business, or Office, as suggested by - Mr. MARSHALL.--Dairies--A mill--Group of thirteen Cottages, - designed for the neighbourhood of a Manufactory--Gardener’s - Cottage--Bath--Several double Cottages--Cottages for three, - four, and five Families--Ornamental Cottages--Plan of a - Manufactory and Work-shops--Groups of Cottages, designed upon - a principle of exciting emulation and rewarding meritorious - exertion--Habitation for an Overseer of Labourers--Arable, - Dairy, and Grazing Farms--An Inn--Villas, and small Country - Dwellings--Entrance-gates--Single and double Lodges, &c. &c. - &c.--A Rural Institute, or National Establishment, for the - advancement of Agriculture, on Mr. MARSHALL’S plan. - - -_In the Press_, - - 1. An AGRICULTURAL EXCURSION in IRELAND, with an Account of Two - Years successful Farming in that Country. By RICHARD PARKINSON, - Author of the “Experienced Farmer,” and “Farmer’s Tour in - America.” - - 2. A TREATISE on WOOL, comprising a particular Account of its - essential Qualities and Defects, and pointing out the Objects - to be attended to by the Grower, with a view to the Improvement - of the British Fleece. By JOHN LUCCOCK, Woolstapler. - - 3. A CATALOGUE of BOOKS on AGRICULTURE and RURAL ECONOMY; - including some Authors on POLITICAL ECONOMY, and the ARTS, more - immediately relating to RURAL AFFAIRS. - - Printed by B. M^cMillan, Bow-Street, Covent-Garden. - - - - -_Agricultural Books lately published for_ J. HARDING, _London_. - - 1. ALDERSON’s ESSAY on the IMPROVEMENT OF POOR SOILS. 8vo. 2s. - - 2. SIR JOSEPH BANKS’s SHORT ACCOUNT of the DISEASE in CORN, - called, by Farmers, the BLIGHT, the MILDEW, and the RUST; with - a Plate. Price 2s. - - 3. BARTLEY (Secretary to the Bath Society) on the Conversion of - PASTURE LAND into TILLAGE--on the MANUFACTURE of POTATOES into - STARCH--and on the utility of applying POTATOES as FOOD for - SHEEP. 1s. 6d. - - 4. BARTLEY’s LETTERS on Extending the GROWTH of FINE CLOTHING - WOOL, by INTERBREEDING with SPANISH RAMS and BRITISH EWES. 2s. - - 5. BARBER’s FARM-BUILDINGS, or RURAL ECONOMY; containing a - minute Description of the Mode of Building in Pisé. 4to. 6 - Plates. 10s. 6d. - - 6. CULLEY’s OBSERVATIONS on LIVE STOCK, with Directions for - choosing and improving the best Breeds of Domestic Animals, - with Plates. 8vo. New Edition. Price 6s. - - 7. The EARL of DUNDONALD’s TREATISE; shewing the intimate - Connexion that subsists between Agriculture and Chemistry: - addressed to the Cultivators of the Soil. 4to. 10s. 6d. - - 8. GARRARD’s PLATES, descriptive of the Improved Breeds of - British Cattle, folio. - - 9. HARRISON on the ROT in SHEEP, and other Animals. 8vo. 2s. - - 10. MARSHALL’S RURAL ECONOMY of the WEST of ENGLAND. A new and - enlarged Edition, 8vo. 2 vols. 15s. - - 11. PARKINSON’s EXPERIENCED FARMER, embracing the whole SYSTEM - of AGRICULTURE, BREEDING, &c. 2 vols. 1l. 1s. - - 12. PARKINSON’s TOUR in AMERICA, in 1798, 1799, and 1800, - giving a particular Account of the American System of - Husbandry, &c. &c. 2 vols. 8vo. 15s. - - 13. A PRACTICAL and EXPERIMENTAL INQUIRY into the NATURE and - PROPERTIES of the DIFFERENT KINDS of MANURES. 2s. - - 14. STICKNEY’s OBSERVATIONS respecting the GRUB. 8vo. 2s. - - 15. The GAME BOOK; enabling the Sportsman to keep an Account - of Game, when and where killed, and other Particulars, in the - manner of a Journal. 7s. 1l. 1s. or 2l. 2s. - - - - -_Lately published by_ J. HARDING, _in Royal Quarto, with 43 Plates, -price 2l. 2s._ - -DESIGNS - -FOR COTTAGES, COTTAGE FARMS, - -_AND OTHER RURAL BUILDINGS_; - -INCLUDING ENTRANCE-GATES AND LODGES. - -By JOSEPH GANDY, Architect, A.R.A. - -This Volume will prove useful to Architects and Gentlemen who build on -their Estates, as it contains a great variety of COUNTRY BUILDINGS, -designed in a style of peculiar beauty, and possessing every advantage -of interior accommodation and economical arrangement. Each Plate is -accompanied with a Ground Plan, Estimate, and Letter-press Descriptions. - - -CONTENTS. - - Plate 1. A Cottage of one room, for a Labourer, Gate-keeper, - &c. 2. Another. 3. A Cottage, with conveniences for keeping - Pigs, &c. 4. Ditto of two rooms, intended for a Park. 5. - A double Cottage. 6. A Cottage for a Labourer who keeps a - Cow, &c. 7. Another. 8. Ditto, of two rooms. 9. Ditto, with - a bed-room above stairs. 10. An ornamental Cottage for a - Gentleman’s Grounds. 11. Cottage, with bed-rooms above. 12. - Cottage, with Cow-house, &c. under one roof. 13. Ornamental - Cottage for a Park. 14. A Cottage-dwelling of two rooms. 15. - Picturesque Cottage for a Shepherd. 16. Cottage and Bridge. 17. - Country Residence, with bed-rooms above. 18. Plan for two or - four Cottages on the banks of a river, and sketch for a Bridge. - 19. Picturesque Farm-dwelling. 20. A small Country Residence. - 21. A Cottager’s Dwelling. 22. A Green-house and Conservatory, - with residence for the Gardener. 23. A Farrier’s Shop, with - Stables and Habitation annexed. 24. A Picturesque Cottage of - three Rooms. 25. A Cottage of three rooms. 26. Habitation - near a Market-town. 27. A Picturesque Building designed for a - Public house. 28. Residence for a Market-town. 29. A double - Cottage, with conveniences for Farming. 30. Picturesque double - Cottage. 31. A small Farm. 32. A Picturesque Farm-dwelling. 33. - A Grazing Farm. 34. Gentleman’s Farming Residence. 35. Circular - group of eight Cottages. 36. Plan for a Village. 37. A Country - Residence or Hunting Box. 38. A double Lodge, and arched - entrance to a Park. 39. Circular single Lodge and Gate. 40. - Single Lodge and Covered-way. 41. A double Lodge, consisting of - thatched Cones. 42. A Lodge with Octagon Piers and Ornaments. - 43. A Lodge and Arched Gateway. - - - - -_Lately published, for_ J. HARDING, _St. James’s Street, London_. - - 1. PICTURESQUE EXCURSIONS in DEVONSHIRE. By T. H. WILLIAMS, - Plymouth. Illustrated with 27 Views, drawn and etched by the - Author. In royal 8vo. Price 1l. 8s. boards. - - The object of this Work is to give slight Sketches of the - most striking Scenery in the County of Devon, accompanied - with a Description of the most remarkable Places, and their - Inhabitants. In this plan he has certainly succeeded. Many - of the Sketches are most beautifully executed, and the Work - must prove a valuable present to the Lovers of Painting - and fine Scenery, and to those who may reside in or visit - Devonshire.--_Literary Journal, October, 1804._ - - 2. DRUNKEN BARNABY’s FOUR JOURNEYS to the NORTH of ENGLAND, in - Latin and English Metre. A new Edition, with 7 Plates. Price - 7s. boards; or, large paper, 12s. - - This is a republication of a curious little Work, originally - printed in the 16th century. The Author, whoever he was, shews - himself acquainted with the History, Antiquities, and Customs - of every place he visits, and exhibits so much acuteness - of remark, and keenness of satire, that he is evidently a - Drunkard, merely in masquerade. - - 3. A DICTIONARY of PAINTERS, from the Revival of the Art to the - present period. By the Rev. M. PILKINGTON, A. M. A new Edition, - with considerable Alterations and Additions, by HENRY FUSELI, - R. A. 4to. Price 1l. 16s.; or, large paper, 2l. 12s. 6d. - - 4. THE POEMS of OSSIAN; a new and beautiful Edition, - embellished with twelve Engravings by FITTLER, from Paintings - by SINGLETON, 3 vols. foolscap 8vo. Price 1l. 1s. boards; or, - on large paper, 1l. 16s. - - 5. THE DANCE of DEATH; represented in 30 Plates, painted by - HOLBEIN, and engraved by HOLLAR, in 1 vol. foolscap 8vo. Price - 10s. 6d.--large 8vo. 15s.--or in 4to. 1l. 1s. boards. - - In the early ages of Christianity, it was the practice to - represent the fallacy of worldly pleasures, and the transitory - nature of all our pursuits, by exhibiting upon the walls of - the churches, and in other situations, several figures carried - away by Skeletons or _Deaths_, in the midst of their amusements - and occupations. Of this kind is the Dance of Death, painted - by HOLBEIN, and engraved by HOLLAR, in the sixteenth century. - The Plates in this very curious and interesting Publication, - thirty in number, are from the _original Coppers etched by_ - HOLLAR, and some of the subjects are very beautiful.--_Literary - Journal, June, 1804._ - - 6. ELEMENTS of SCIENCE and ART; being a familiar Introduction - to NATURAL PHILOSOPHY and CHEMISTRY: together with their - Application to a variety of elegant and useful Arts. By JOHN - IMISON. A new Edition, considerably enlarged and improved. In - 2 large vols. 8vo.; with an Index, and 32 Engravings by LOWRY. - Price 1l. 5s. boards. - - The first edition of this Work was reviewed by us in our - 72d vol.; but it is now so greatly enlarged, that we have - reviewed it as a new production; and we think its merits are - considerable. There is very little in SCIENCE and ART, which - the Author does not touch upon; much, therefore, evidently - cannot be said upon each, but what is given is stated properly - and judiciously. Its multifarious information must render this - compilation useful and entertaining.--_Monthly Rev. Sept. 1804._ - - Printed by B. M^cMillan, Bow-Street, Covent-Garden. - - - - -Transcriber’s Notes - -Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. 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