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diff --git a/old/69519-0.txt b/old/69519-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index bbc0f28..0000000 --- a/old/69519-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,11806 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of New system of domestic cookery,, by -Maria Eliza Ketelby Rundell - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: New system of domestic cookery, - formed upon principles of economy, and adapted to the use of - private families - -Author: Maria Eliza Ketelby Rundell - -Release Date: December 10, 2022 [eBook #69519] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Richard Tonsing and the Online Distributed Proofreading - Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from - images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NEW SYSTEM OF DOMESTIC -COOKERY, *** - - - - - - NEW SYSTEM - OF - DOMESTIC COOKERY, - FORMED UPON - PRINCIPLES OF ECONOMY, - AND ADAPTED TO THE USE OF - PRIVATE FAMILIES. - - - BY A LADY. - - - BOSTON: - - Published by WILLIAM ANDREWS, No. 1, _Cornhill_. - - Sold by Cushing & Appleton, _Salem_; Thomas & Whipple, _Newburyport_; - Charles Peirce, _Portsmouth_; Daniel Johnson, _Portland_; William - Wilkinson, _Providence_; Increase Cooke & Co. _Newhaven_; Peter A. - Mesier and Brisban & Brannan, _Newyork_; Samuel F. Bradford and John - Conrad & Co. _Philadelphia_, & E. Morford, _Charleston_, S. C. - - 1807. - - - - - S. Etheridge, Printer, Charleston. - - - - - ADVERTISEMENT. - - -As the directions which follow were intended for the conduct of the -families of the authoress’s own daughters, and for the arrangement of -their table, so as to unite a good figure with proper economy, she has -avoided all excessive luxury, such as essence of ham, and that wasteful -expenditure of large quantities of meat for gravy, which so greatly -contributes to keep up the price, and is no less injurious to those who -eat, than to those whose penury bids them abstain. Many receipts are -given for things which, being in daily use, the mode of preparing them -may be supposed too well known to require a place in a cookery book; yet -how rarely do we meet with fine melted butter, good toast and water, or -well made coffee! She makes no apology for minuteness in some articles, -or for leaving others unnamed, because she writes not for professed -cooks. This little work would have been a treasure to herself, when she -first set out in life, and she therefore hopes it may be useful to -others. In that idea it is given to the public, and as she will receive -from it no emolument, so she trusts it will escape without censure. - - - - - TABLE OF CONTENTS. - - - PAGE. - - Miscellaneous observations for the use of the Mistress of a - Family, 1 - - Different methods of cooking the several kinds of Fish, 1 to 17 - - Observations on dressing Fish, 17 to 20 - - On dressing Meats, 20 to 76 - - On dressing Poultry, 76 to 87 - - On making Pies, 87 to 93 - - On making Soups, 93 to 101 - - On making Gravies and Sauces, 102 to - 111 - - On making Vinegars and Pickles, 112 to - 124 - - On making Stews, 124 to - 127 - - On making Salads and boiling Vegetables, 128 to - 131 - - Small Dishes for Supper, 131 - - Forcemeat for Patties, Balls, or stuffing, 132 - - Pastry, 133 to - 141 - - Puddings, 142 to - 159 - - Sweet Dishes, 159 to - 186 - - Fruits, 186 to - 210 - - Ices, 210 to - 212 - - Cakes, 212 to - 229 - - French Bread, 229 - - To make and preserve Yeast, ibid. - - To pot and roast Cheese, 230 - - To poach Eggs, 231 - - On managing a Dairy, 231 to - 235 - - Home Brewery, 236 to - 247 - - Cookery for the Sick, 247 to - 264 - - Cookery for the Poor, 264 to - 268 - - Useful Directions to give to Servants, 269 to - 276 - - - - - =Miscellaneous Observations= - FOR THE USE OF - THE MISTRESS OF A FAMILY; - BY WHICH MUCH MONEY WILL BE SAVED, AND THE GENERAL APPEARANCE GREATLY - IMPROVED. - - -The mistress of a family should always remember that the welfare and -good management of the house depend on the eye of the superior; and -consequently that nothing is too trifling for her notice, whereby waste -may be avoided; and this attention is of more importance, now that the -price of every necessary of life is increased to an enormous degree. - -If a lady has never been accustomed, while single, to think of family -management, let her not upon that account fear that she cannot attain -it; she may consult others who are more experienced, and acquaint -herself with the necessary quantities of the several articles of family -expenditure in proportion to the number it consists of. - -A minute account of the annual income, and the times of payment, should -be taken in writing; likewise an estimate of the supposed amount of each -article of expense; and those who are early accustomed to calculations -on domestic articles, will acquire so accurate a knowledge of what their -establishment requires, as will give them the happy medium between -prodigality and parsimony, without acquiring the character of meanness. - -Ready money should be paid for all such things as come not into weekly -bills; and the best places for purchasing be attended to. In some -articles a discount of five per cent. is allowed in London, and other -large cities; and those who thus pay are usually best served. Under the -idea of buying cheap, many people go to new shops; but it is safest to -deal with people of established credit, who do not dispose of bad goods -by underselling. - -To make people wait for their money injures them greatly, besides that a -higher price must be charged: perhaps the irregularity of payment may -have much evil influence on the price of various articles, and -contribute to the destruction of many families, in gradation downwards. - -It is very necessary for a woman to be informed of the prices and -goodness of all articles in common use, and of the best times, as well -as places, for purchasing them. She should also be acquainted with the -_comparative_ prices of provisions, in order that she may be able to -substitute those that are most reasonable, when they will answer as -well, for others of the same kind, but which are more costly. A false -notion of economy leads many to purchase as bargains what is not wanted, -and sometimes never is used. Were this error avoided, more money would -remain for other purposes. Some things are better for keeping, and, -being in constant consumption, should be laid in accordingly; such as -paper, soap, and candles. Of these more hereafter. - -A proper quantity of household articles should be always ready, and more -bought in before the others be consumed, to prevent inconvenience, -especially in the country. - -A bill of parcels and receipts should be required, even if the money be -paid at the time of purchase; and, to avoid mistakes, let the goods be -compared with these when brought home. - -Though it is very disagreeable to suspect any one’s honesty, and perhaps -mistakes have been unintentional, yet it is prudent to weigh meat, -sugars, &c. when brought in, and compare with the charge. The butcher -should be ordered to send the weight with the meat, and the cook to file -these checks, to be examined when the weekly bill shall be delivered. - -A ticket should be given by the cook for each loaf, which will on return -give the number to be paid for. - -Thus regularly conducted, the exact state of money affairs will be known -with ease; for it is delay of payment that occasions confusion. - -Accounts should be regularly kept, and not the smallest articles omitted -to be entered; and if balanced every week and month, the income and -outgoings will be ascertained with facility, and their proportions to -other be duly observed. Some people approve of keeping in separate -purses the money for different purposes, as domestic articles, clothes, -pocket, education of children, &c. - -Whichever way accounts be kept, some certain method should be adopted -and strictly adhered to. - -Many families have owed their prosperity full as much to the conduct and -propriety of female management, as to the knowledge and activity of the -father. - -Those who are served with brewer’s beer, or any other thing not paid for -on delivery, should have a book for entering the date; which will not -only prevent overcharges, but at one view give the annual consumption. - -It is much to be feared, that for the waste of many of the good things -that God has given for our use, not abuse, the mistress and servants of -great houses will hereafter be called to a strict account. - -Some part of every person’s fortune should be devoted to charity; by -which “a pious woman will build up her house before God, while she that -is foolish (_i. e._ lends nothing to the Lord) pulls it down with her -hands.” No one can complain of the want of gifts to the poor in this -land; but there is a mode of relief which would add greatly to their -comfort, and which being prepared from superfluity, and such materials -as are often thrown away, the expense would not be felt. In the latter -part of this work some hints for preparing the above are given. - -By good hours, especially early breakfast, a family is more regular, and -much time is saved. If orders be given soon in the morning, there will -be more time to execute them; and servants, by doing their work with -ease, will be more equal to it, and fewer will be necessary. - -It is worthy of notice, that the general expense will be reduced, if -every thing be kept in its proper place, applied to its proper use, and -mended, when the nature of an accident will allow, as soon as broken. - -An inventory of furniture, linen, and china, should be kept, and the -things examined by it twice a year, or oftener, if there be a change of -servants; into each of whose care the articles used by him or her, -should be intrusted, with a list, as is done with plate. Tickets of -parchment with the family name, numbered, and specifying what bed it -belongs to, should be sewed on each feather bed, bolster, pillows, and -blankets. - -Many well meaning servants are ignorant of the best means of managing, -and thereby waste as much as would maintain a small family, besides -causing the mistress of the house much chagrin by their irregularity; -and many families, from a want of method, have the appearance of chance -rather than of regular system. To avoid which the following hints may be -useful. - -All things likely to be wanted should be in readiness; sugars of -different qualities should be kept broken, currants washed, picked and -dry in a jar; spice pounded, &c. - -Where regular noonings or suppers are used (and in every house some -preparation is necessary for accidental visitors), care should be taken -to have such things in readiness as may be proper for either; a list of -several will be subjoined, a change of which will be agreeable, and if -properly managed will be attended with no great expense. - -Every article should be kept in that place best suited to it, as much -waste may thereby be avoided, viz. - -Vegetables will keep best on a stone floor if the air be excluded; meat -in a cold dry place; sugar and sweetmeats require a dry place; so does -salt; candles cold, but not damp; dried meats, hams, &c. the same; all -sorts of seeds for puddings, saloop, rice, &c. should be close covered -to preserve from insects. Flour should be kept in a cool perfectly dry -room, and the bag being tied should be changed upside down and back -every week, and well shaken. Soap should be cut with a wire or twine, in -pieces that form a long square, when first brought in, and kept out of -the air two or three weeks; for if it dry quick, it will crack, and when -wet break. Put it on a shelf, leaving a space between, and let it grow -hard gradually. Thus, it will save a full third in the consumption. -CHEESE should be washed and wiped if you wish to preserve it sound, and -the shelves be washed; changing the place every three or four weeks; but -if it be wanted to ripen, a damp cellar will bring it forward. - -Bread is now so heavy an article of expense that all waste should be -guarded against, and having it cut in the room will tend much to prevent -it; since the scarcity in 1795 and 1800, that custom has been much -adopted. It should not be cut until a day old; earthen pans and covers -keep it best. - -Rolls, muffins, or any sort of bread, may be made to taste new when two -or three days old, by dipping it uncut in water, and baking afresh or -toasting. - -Eggs may be bought cheapest when the hens first begin to lay in the -spring, before they sit; in Lent and at Easter they become dear. They -may be preserved fresh by dipping them in boiling water, and instantly -taking them out, or by oiling the shell; either of which ways is to -prevent the air passing through it. They should be kept on shelves with -small holes to receive one in each, and be turned every other day. - -Carrots, parsnips, and beet roots, should be kept in sand for winter -use, and neither they nor potatoes be cleared from the earth. - -Store onions preserve best hung up in a dry cold room. - -Straw to lay apples on should be quite dry, to prevent a musty taste. - -Large pears should be tied up by the stalk. - -Tarragon gives the flavour of French cookery, and in high gravies is a -great improvement; but should be added only a short time before serving. - -Basil, savory, and knotted marjoram, or London thyme, to be used when -herbs are ordered; but with discretion, as they are very pungent. - -Celery seeds give the flavour of the plant to soups. - -Parsley should be cut close to the stalks, and dried on tins in a very -cool oven: it preserves its flavour and colour, and is very useful in -winter. - -Artichoke bottoms which have been slowly dried, should be kept in paper -bags; and truffles, morels, lemonpeel, &c. in a dry place ticketed. - -In towns, poultry being usually sold ready picked, the feathers, which -may occasionally come in in small quantities, are neglected: but orders -should be given to put them into a tub free from damp, and as they dry -to change them into paper bags, a few in each; they should hang in a dry -kitchen to season; fresh ones must not be added to those in part dried, -or they will occasion a musty smell, but they should go through the same -process. In a few months they will be fit to add to beds, or to make -pillows, without the usual mode of drying them in a cool oven, which may -be pursued if they are wanted before five or six months. - -The best means to preserve blankets from moths is to fold and lay them -under the featherbeds that are in use, and they should be shaken -occasionally. When soiled, they should be washed, not scoured. - -Candles made in cool weather are best; and when their price, and that of -soap, which rise and fall together, is likely to be higher, it will be -prudent to lay in the stock of both. This information the chandler can -always give; they are better for keeping eight or ten months, and will -not injure for two years, if properly placed in the cool; and there are -few articles that better deserve care in buying, and allowing a due -quantity of, according to the size of the family. - -The price of starch depends upon that of flour; the best will keep good -in a dry warm room for some years; therefore when bread is cheap, it may -be bought to advantage, and covered close. - -Pickles and sweetmeats should be preserved from air; where the former -are much used, small jars of each should be taken from the stock jar, to -prevent frequent opening. - -Some of the lemons and oranges used for juice should be pared, first to -preserve the peel dry; some should be halved, and when squeezed, the -pulp cut out, and the outsides dried for grating. If for boiling in any -liquid, the first way is best. When these fruits are cheap, a proper -quantity should be bought, and prepared as hereafter directed, -especially by those who live in the country, where they cannot always be -had; and they are perpetually wanted in cookery. - -When whites of eggs are used for jelly, or other purposes, contrive to -have pudding, custard, &c. to employ the yelks also. Should you not want -them for several hours, beat them up with a little water, and put them -in a cool place, or they will be hardened and useless. It was a mistake -of old, to think that the whites made cakes and puddings heavy; on the -contrary, if beaten long and separately, they contribute greatly to give -lightness, are an advantage to paste, and make a pretty dish beaten with -fruit, to set in cream, &c. - -If copper utensils be used in the kitchen, the cook should be charged to -be very careful not to let the tin be rubbed off; and to have them fresh -done when the least defect appears, and never to put by any soup, gravy, -&c. in them, or any metal utensil; stone and earthen vessels should be -provided for those purposes, as likewise plenty of common dishes, that -the table set may not be used to put by cold meat. - -Vegetables soon sour, and corrode metals and glazed red ware, by which a -strong poison is produced. - -Vinegar by its acidity does the same, the glazing being of lead or -arsenic. - -In hot weather, when it is difficult to preserve milk from becoming -sour, and spoiling the cream, it may be kept perfectly sweet by scalding -the new milk very gently, without boiling, and setting it by in the -earthen dish or pan that it is done in. This method is pursued in -Devonshire, and the milk is not skimmed under twenty four hours, and -would equally answer in small quantities for coffee, tea, &c. - -Cream already skimmed may be kept twenty four hours if scalded without -sugar, and by adding to it as much powdered lump sugar as shall make it -pretty sweet will be good two days, keeping it in a cool place. Syrup of -cream may be preserved as above in the proportion of a pound and quarter -of sugar to a pint of perfectly fresh cream, keep it in a cool place two -or three hours; then put it in one or two ounce phials, and cork it -close. It will keep good thus for several weeks, and will be found very -useful on voyages. - -To cool liquors in hot weather, dip a cloth in cold water, and wrap it -round the bottle two or three times, then place it in the sun; renew the -process once or twice. - -The best way of scalding fruits, or boiling vinegar, is in a stone jar -on a hot iron hearth, or by putting the vessel into a saucepan of water, -called a waterbath. - -The beautiful green given to pickles, formerly was made by the use of -bell mettle, brass, or copper, and consequently very injurious to the -stomach. - -If chocolate, coffee, jelly, gruel, bark, &c. be suffered to boil over, -the strength is lost. - -Marbles boiled in custard, or any thing likely to burn, will, by shaking -them in the saucepan, prevent it. - -Gravies or soups, put by, should be daily changed into fresh scalded -pans. When there is fear of gravy meat being spoiled before it be -wanted, season it well, and lightly fry it, which will preserve it two -days longer; but the gravy is best when the juices are fresh. A receipt -for gravy that will keep a week is given under the article of SAUCES. - -The cook should be encouraged to be careful of coals and cinders: for -the latter there is a new contrivance to sift, without dispersing the -dust of the ashes, by means of a covered tin bucket. - -Small coal wetted makes the strongest fire for the back, but must remain -untouched until it cake. Cinders, lightly wet, give a great degree of -heat, and are better than coal for furnaces, ironing stoves, and ovens. - -The cook should be charged to take care of jelly bags, tapes for the -collared things, &c. which, if not perfectly scalded, and kept dry, give -an unpleasant flavour when next used. - -Cold water thrown on cast iron, when hot, will cause it to crack. - -Hard water spoils the colour of vegetables; a pinch of pearlash, or salt -of wormwood, will prevent that effect. - -When sirloins of beef, loins of veal or mutton, come in, part of the -suet may be cut off for puddings, or to clarify; dripping will baste -every thing as well as butter, fowls and game excepted; and for kitchen -pies, nothing else should be used. - -The fat off a neck or loin of mutton makes a far lighter pudding than -suet. - -Meat and vegetables that the frost has touched should be soaked in cold -water two or three hours before they are used, or more if much iced. -When put into hot water or to the fire until thawed, no heat will dress -them properly. - -Meat should be well examined, when it comes in warm weather; and if -flies have touched it, the part must be cut off, and then well washed. -In the height of summer, it is a very safe way to let meat that is to be -salted lie an hour in the coldest water, rubbing it well there in any -part likely to have been flyblown; then wipe it perfectly dry, and have -ready salt, and rub it thoroughly into every part, leaving a handful -over it besides. Turn it every day, and rub the pickle in, which will -make it ready for the table in three or four days; if it is desired to -be very much corned, wrap it in a well floured cloth, having rubbed it -previously with salt. The latter method will corn fresh beef fit for -table the day it comes in; but it must be put into the pot when the -water boils. - -If the weather permits, meat eats much better for hanging two or three -days before it be salted. - -The water in which meat has boiled makes an excellent soup for the poor, -when vegetables, oatmeal or pease, are added, and should not be cleared -from the fat. - -Roast beef bones, or shank bones of ham, make fine pease soup, and -should be boiled with the pease the day before eaten, that the fat may -be removed. - -The mistress of the house will find many great advantages in visiting -her larder daily, before she orders her bill of fare: she will see what -things require dressing, and thereby guard against their being spoiled. -Many articles may be re-dressed in a different form from that in which -they were first served, and improve the appearance of the table without -increasing expense. Many dishes require to be made of dressed meat or -fowls. Directions for several are hereafter given. - -In every sort of provisions, the best of the kind goes farthest; cutting -out most advantageously, and affording most nourishment. Round of beef, -fillet of veal, and leg of mutton, bear a higher price; but having more -solid meat, deserve the preference. It is worth notice, however, that -those joints which are inferior may be dressed as palatably, and being -cheaper, ought to be bought in turn; and, when weighed with the prime -pieces, the price of the latter is reduced. - -In loins of meat, the long pipe which runs by the bone should be taken -out, being apt to taint; as likewise the kernels of beef. Rumps and -aitchbones of beef are often bruised by the blows the drovers give, and -that part always taints: avoid purchasing such. - -The shank bones of mutton should be saved, and, after soaking and -brushing, may be added to give richness to gravies or soups; and they -are particularly nourishing for the sick. - -The feet of pork make various good dishes, and should be cut off before -the legs be cured. Observe the same of the ears. - -Calves’ tongues, salted, make a more useful dish than when dressed with -the brains, which may be served without. - -Some people like neats’ tongues cured with the root, in which case they -look much larger; but should the contrary be approved, the root must be -cut off close to the gullet, next to the tongue, but without taking away -the fat under the tongue. The root must be soaked in salt and water, and -extremely well cleaned before it be dressed as hereafter directed: and -the tongue laid in salt for a day and night before pickled. - -Great attention is requisite in salting meat; and in the country, where -great quantities are cured, it is of still more importance. Beef and -pork should be well sprinkled, and a few hours after hung to drain, -before it be rubbed with the preserving salts; which mode, by cleansing -the meat from the blood, tends to keep it from tasting strong. It should -be turned daily, and if wanted soon, rubbed. A salting tub, or lead, may -be used, and a cover should fit close. Those who use a good deal of salt -meat will find it answer well to boil up the pickle, skim, and, when -cold, pour it over meat that has been sprinkled and drained. Salt is so -greatly increased in price, from the heavy duties, as to require -additional care, and the brine ought not to be thrown away, as is the -practice of some, after once using. - -In some families great loss is sustained by the spoiling of meat. The -best mode to keep that which is to be eaten unsalted is, as before -directed, to examine it well; wipe it daily, and pound some charcoal, -and throw over it. If meat is brought from a distance in warm weather, -the butcher should be charged to cover it close, and bring it early in -the morning; but even then, if it be kept on the road, while he serves -the customers who are nearest to him, it will probably be flyblown. This -is most frequent in the country. - -Mutton will keep long by washing with vinegar, and peppering the broad -end of the leg; if any damp appears, wipe it immediately. If rubbed with -salt lightly, it will not eat the worse. Boiled in seawater, is by some -much admired. - -Game is often brought in when not likely to keep a day, in the cook’s -apprehension; yet may be preserved two or three days, if wanted, by the -following method: - -If birds, (woodcocks and snipes excepted, which must not be drawn) draw -them, pick, and take out the crop; wash them in two or three waters, and -rub them with a little salt. Have ready a large saucepan of boiling -water, and plunge them in one by one; boil each five minutes, moving it, -that the water may go through them. When all are finished, hang them by -the heads in a cold place; when drained, pepper the inside and necks. -When to be roasted, wash to take off the pepper. The most delicate -birds, even grouse, may be kept this way, if not putrid. Birds that live -by suction, &c. bear being high; it is probable that the heat might -cause them to taint more, as a free passage for the scalding water could -not be obtained. Hares ought not to be paunched in the field, as they -keep longer, and eat much better without. But that is seldom in the -cook’s power to guard against. She should take out the liver and heart, -and parboil the former to keep for stuffing, wipe the inside every day, -quite dry, put a bunch of parsley, or some pepper, or both; thus it will -keep long, especially if the seasoning be rubbed early on the inside to -prevent any mustiness of taste, which often is communicated to the -stuffing by this omission, and want of extreme nicety in washing it in -water and vinegar before it be dressed, while the outside has been -preserved fresh by the skin. If old, a hare should be kept as long as -possible, except for soup, or jugging; and after soaking, in vinegar, be -well larded. - -Freshwater fish has often a muddy taste; to take off which, soak it in -strong salt and water, or, if of a size to bear it, give it a scald in -the same, after extremely good cleaning and washing. The latter for carp -or eels. - -Turbot will hang three or four days, if lightly rubbed with salt, and be -in quite as great perfection as the first day. - -Fish may sometimes be bought reasonably by taking more than can be -dressed at once; when recourse may be had to pickling, potting, or -frying, to keep for stewing a succeeding day. - -When thunder or hot weather causes beer to turn sour, half, or a whole -teaspoonful of salt of wormwood should be put into a jug, and let the -beer be drawn in it as small a time as possible before it be drank. - -If the subject of servants be thought ill timed in a book upon family -arrangement, it must be by those who do not recollect that the -regularity and good management of the heads will be insufficient, if not -seconded by those who are to execute orders. It behoves every person to -be extremely careful who they take into their employ; to be very minute -in investigating the character they receive; and equally cautious to be -scrupulously just in giving one to others. Were this attended to, many -bad people would be incapacitated from doing mischief, by abusing the -trust reposed in them. And it may be fairly asserted, that the robbery, -or waste (which is but a milder epithet) of an unfaithful servant, will -be laid to the charge of the master or mistress, who, knowing such -faults in him, or even having only well grounded suspicions, is led by -entreaty or false pity, to slide him into another place. To refuse -countenance to the evil, is to encourage the good servant; such as are -honest, frugal, and attentive to their duties, should be liberally -rewarded: and such discrimination would encourage merit, and inspire -servants with a zeal to acquit themselves with fidelity. - -On the other side it may be proper to observe, that a retributive -justice usually marks persons in that station sooner or later even in -this world. Those who are extravagant and idle in their servitude, are -ill prepared for the industry and sobriety on which their own future -welfare much depends; their faults, and the attendant punishment, come -home when they have families of their own, and sometimes much sooner. -They will see their wickedness or folly in the conduct of their -offspring, whom they must not expect to be better than the examples that -are set them. - -It was the observation of a sensible woman, that she could always read -the fate of her servants when they married from her; those who had been -faithful and industrious in her service, continued their good habits in -their own families, and became respectable members of the community; -those who had been unfaithful servants, never were successful, and not -unfrequently were reduced to the parish. - -The manner of carving is not only a very essential knowledge in point of -doing the honours of the table with grace, but makes a great difference -in the family consumption; and, though in large companies, a lady is so -much assisted as to make the art of less consequence, yet she should not -fail to acquaint herself with an attainment of which she must daily feel -the want. Some people haggle meat so as not to be able to help six times -from a large tongue, or a piece of beef. It is to be observed that a -thin sharp carving knife, and with a very little strength to the -management of it, will cut deep thin slices, cause the joint to look -neatly, and leave sufficient for a second helping, instead of that -disgusting appearance which is sometimes observable. Habit alone can -make people carve, or do the honours of a table well; for those who have -not had practice, there are very good directions in a little book of -Trusler’s. - -In the following, and indeed all other receipts, though the quantities -may be as accurately set down as possible, yet much must be left to the -discretion of the person who uses them. The different taste of people -requires more or less of the flavour of spices, garlic, butter, &c. -which can never be directed by general rules; and if the cook has not a -good taste, and attention to that of her employers, not all the -ingredients with which nature or art can furnish her, will give an -exquisite relish to her dishes. The proper articles should be at hand, -and she must proportion them until the true zest be obtained. - - - - - DOMESTIC COOKERY. - - - - - FISH. - - - _To boil Turbot._ - -The turbot kettle must be of a proper size, and in the nicest order. Set -the fish in cold water to cover it completely: throw a handful of salt -and one glass of vinegar into it; let it gradually boil; be very careful -that there fall no blacks, but skim it well, and preserve the beauty of -the colour. - -Serve it garnished with a complete fringe of curled parsley, lemon, and -horseradish. - -The sauce must be the finest lobster, and anchovy butter, and plain -butter, served plentifully in separate tureens. - - - _To stew Lamprey, as at Worcester._ - -After cleaning the fish carefully, remove the cartilage which runs down -the back, and season with a small quantity of cloves, mace, nutmeg, -pepper, and pimento. Put it in a small stewpot, with very strong beef -gravy, with port and equal quantity of Madeira or sherry wine. - -It must be covered; stew till tender; then take out the lamprey and keep -it hot, while you boil up the liquor with two or three anchovies -chopped, and some flour and butter: strain the gravy through a sieve, -and add lemon juice and some made mustard. Serve with sippets of bread -and horseradish. - -Eels, soals, and carp, done the same way, are excellent. When there is -spawn, it must be fried and put round. - -Note. Cyder instead of white wine will do in common. - - - _Eel Pye._ - -Cut the eels in lengths of two or three inches: season with pepper and -salt, and place in the dish, with some bits of butter and a little -water, and cover it with paste. - - - _Spitchcock Eels._ - -Take a large one, leave the skin on, cut it in pieces of four inches -long, open it on the belly side, and clean it nicely: wipe it dry, and -then wet it with a beaten egg, and strew it over on both sides with -chopped parsley, pepper, salt, a very little sage, and a bit of mace -pounded fine, and mixed with the seasoning. Rub the gridiron with a bit -of suet, and broil the fish of a fine colour. - -Serve with anchovy and butter for sauce. - - - _Fried Eels._ - -If small, they should be curled round and fried, being first dipped in -egg and crumbs of bread. - - - _Boiled Eels._ - -The small ones are preferable. Do them in a small quantity of water, -with a good deal of parsley, which should be served up with them and the -liquor. - -Serve chopped parsley and butter for sauce. - - - _Eel Broth_, - -Very nourishing for the sick. - -As above; but to be stewed two hours, and an onion and peppercorns -added: salt to taste. - - - _Collared Eels._ - -Bone a large eel, but do not skin it: mix pepper, salt, mace, pimento, -and a clove or two, in the finest powder, and rub over the whole inside: -roll it tight, and bind it with a coarse tape. Boil it in salt and water -till enough; then add vinegar, and when cold, keep the collar in pickle. -Serve it whole, or in slices, garnished with parsley. Chopped sage, -parsley, and a little thyme, knotted marjorum, and savory, mixed with -the spices, greatly improve the taste. - - - _Perch and Tench._ - -Put them in cold water, boil them carefully, and serve with melted -butter and soy. - - - _Mackerel._ - -Boiled, and served with butter and fennel. - -Broiled, being split and sprinkled with herbs, pepper and salt; or -stuffed with the same, crumbs and chopped fennel. - -Collared, as eel above. - -Potted. Clean, season, and bake them in a pan, with spice, bayleaves, -and some butter: when cold, lay them in a potting pot, and cover with -butter. - -Pickled. Boil them; then boil some of the liquor, a few peppers, -bayleaves, and some vinegar: when cold, pour it over them. - - - _To pickle Mackerel, called Caveach._ - -Clean and divide, then cut each side in three; or, leaving them -undivided, cut each fish in five or six pieces. To six large mackerel, -take near an ounce of pepper, two nutmegs, a little mace, four cloves, -and a handful of salt, all in finest powder; mix, and, making holes in -each bit of fish, thrust the seasoning into them; rub each piece with -some of it; then fry them brown in oil; let them stand till cold, then -put them into a stone jar, and cover with vinegar: if to keep long, pour -oil on the top. This done, they may be preserved for months. - - - _To bake Pike._ - -Scale it, and open as near the throat as you can; then stuff it with the -following: grated bread, herbs, anchovies, oysters, suet, salt, pepper, -mace, half a pint of cream, four yelks of eggs; mix all, over the fire, -till it thickens, then put it into the fish, sew it up. Butter should be -put over in little bits: bake it. Serve sauce of gravy, butter, and -anchovy. _Note._ If, in helping a pike, the back and belly be slit up, -and each slice be gently drawn downwards, there will be fewer bones -given. - - - _Salmon to boil._ - -Clean it carefully, boil it gently, and take it out of the water as soon -as done; and let the water be warm if the fish be split. - -Shrimp or anchovy sauce. - - - _Salmon to pickle._ - -Boil as above, take the fish out and boil the liquor with bayleaves, -peppercorns and salt; add vinegar when cold, and pour over the fish. - - - _Salmon to broil._ - -Cut slices about an inch thick; season, and put them into papers; twist -them, and broil gently. Serve in the papers. Anchovy sauce. - - - _Salmon to pot._ - -Take a large piece, scale and wipe, but do not wash it; salt it very -well: let it lie till the salt be melted and drained from it, then -season with beaten mace, cloves, and whole peppers. Lay in a few -bayleaves, put it close in a pan, and cover it over with butter, and -bake it. When well done, drain it from the gravy, put it in the pots to -keep; and when cold, cover with clarified butter. - -Thus you may do any firm fish. - - - _Salmon to dry._ - -Cut the fish down, take out the inside and roe. Rub the whole with -common salt, after scaling it; let it hang to drain twenty four hours. -Pound three or four ounces of saltpetre, according to the size of the -fish, two ounces of bay salt, and two ounces of coarse sugar: rub these, -when mixed well, into the Salmon, and lay it on a large dish or tray two -days, then rub it well with common salt, and in twenty four hours more -it will be fit to dry: but you must dry it well after draining. Either -hang in a wood chimney, or in a dry place, keeping it open with two -small sticks. - - - _Lobsters to pot._ - -Boil them half, pick out the meat, cut into small bits: season with -mace, white pepper, nutmeg, and salt: press close into a pot and cover -with butter: bake half an hour: put the spawn in. When cold, take the -lobster out, and with a little of the butter put it into the pots. Beat -the other butter in a mortar with some of the spawn; then mix that -coloured butter with as much as will be sufficient to cover the pots, -and strain it. Cayenne may be added, if approved. - - - _Another way, as at Wood’s Hotel._ - -Take out the meat as whole as you can; split the tail and remove the -gut; if the inside be not watery, add that. Season with mace, nutmeg, -white pepper, salt, and a clove or two, in finest powder. Lay a little -fine butter at the bottom of a pan, and the lobster smooth over it, with -bayleaves between: cover it with butter and bake it gently. When done, -pour the whole on the bottom of a sieve, and with a fork lay the pieces -into potting pots, some of each sort with the seasoning about it. When -cold, pour clarified butter over, but not hot. It will be good next day; -or highly seasoned, and thick covered with butter, will keep some time. - -The potted lobster may be used cold, or as a fricassee, with a cream -sauce, when it looks very nicely, and eats excellently, especially if -there be spawn. - -Mackerel, herrings, and trout, are good potted as above. - - - _Stewed Lobster, as a very high Relish._ - -Pick the lobster, put the berries into a dish that has a lamp, and rub -them down with a bit of butter, two spoonfuls of any sort of gravy, one -of soy or walnut catsup, a little salt and Cayenne, and a spoonful of -port. Stew the lobster cut in bits with the gravy as above. It must be -dressed at table, and eaten immediately. - - - _Lobster Pie._ - -Boil two lobsters, or three small; take out the tails, cut them in two, -take out the gut, cut each in four pieces and lay them in a small dish. -Put in then the meat of the claws, and that you have picked out of the -body; pick off the furry parts from the latter, and take out the lady; -then take the spawn, beat it in a mortar, likewise all the shells. Set -them on to stew with some water, two or three spoonfuls of vinegar, -pepper, salt, and some pounded mace. A large piece of butter, rolled in -flour, must be added when the goodness of the shells is obtained. Give a -boil or two and pour into the dish strained: strew some crumbs over, and -put a paste over all. Bake slowly, but only till the paste be done. - - - _Curry of Lobsters or Prawns._ - -When taken out of the shells, simmer them as above. - - - _Buttered Lobsters._ - -Pick the meat out; cut it and warm with a little weak brown gravy, -nutmeg, salt, pepper, and butter, with a little flour. If done white, a -little white gravy and cream. - - - _Hot Crab._ - -Pick the meat out of a crab, clear the shell from the head, then put the -former, with a very small bit of nutmeg, salt, pepper, a bit of butter, -crumbs of bread, and three spoonfuls of vinegar, into the shell again, -and set it before the fire. You may brown it with a salamander. - -Dry toast should be served to eat it upon. - - - _To dress Red Herrings._ - -Choose those that are large and moist; cut them open, and pour some -boiling small beer over them, to soak half an hour. Drain them dry, and -make them just hot through before the fire; then rub some cold butter -over them and serve. Egg sauce, or buttered eggs and mashed potatoes, -should be served with them. - - - _Baked Herrings or Sprats._ - -Wash and drain without wiping them. Season with Jamaica pepper in fine -powder, salt, a whole clove or two: lay them in a pan with plenty of -black pepper, an onion, and a few bayleaves. Put half vinegar and half -small beer, enough to cover them. Put paper over the pan, and bake in a -slow oven. If you like, throw saltpetre over them the night before, to -make them look red. Gut, but do not open them. - - - _To smoke Herrings._ - -Clean and lay them in salt, and a little saltpetre one night; then hang -them on a stick, through the eyes, on a row. Have ready an old cask, on -which put some sawdust, and in the midst of it a heater red hot; over -the smoke fix the stick, and let them remain twenty four hours. - - - _Fried Herrings._ - -Serve them of a light brown, and onions sliced and fried. - - - _Broiled Herrings._ - -Floured first, and done of a good colour. Plain butter for sauce. They -are very good potted like mackerel. - - - _Soals._ - -If boiled, they must be served with great care to look perfectly white, -and should be much covered with parsley. - -If fried, dip them in egg, and cover them with fine crumbs of bread. Set -on a fryingpan that is just large enough, and put into it a large -quantity of fresh lard or dripping; boil it, and immediately slip the -fish into it. Do them of a fine brown. When enough, take them out -carefully, and lay them upon a dish turned under side uppermost, and -placed slantingly before the fire to drain off the fat. If you wish them -to be particularly nice, lay them on clean cap paper, and let lie some -minutes. - -Observe, that fish never looks well if not fried in plenty of fat, and -_that_ boiling hot, before it be put into it. The dripping may serve -again with a little fresh. Take care the fat does not become black. -Butter makes every thing black that is fried in it. The soals should -just fit the inside of the dish, and a fringe of curled parsley garnish -the edge completely, which looks beautifully. - -Soals that have been fried, eat good cold with oil, vinegar, salt, and -mustard. _Note._ Fine oil gives the finest colour, but is expensive. - - - _Stewed Soals, and Carp_, - -Are to be done like lampreys. - - - _Soals, in the Portuguese way._ - -Take one large or two lesser; if the former, cut the fish in two; if -they are small, they need only be split. The bones being taken out, put -the fish into a pan, with a bit of butter and some lemonjuice: give it a -fry; then lay the fish on a dish, and spread a forcemeat over each -piece, and roll it round, fastening the roll with a few small skewers. -Lay the rolls into a small earthen pan; beat an egg and wet them, then -strew crumbs over, and put the remainder of the egg, with a little meat -gravy, a spoonful of caper liquor, an anchovy chopped fine, and some -parsley chopped, into the bottom of the pan; cover it close, and bake, -until the fish be done enough, in a slow oven. Then place the rolls in -the dish for serving; cover it to keep it hot until the gravy baked be -skimmed: if not enough, a little fresh, flavoured as above, must be -prepared and added to it. - -The stuffing to be made as on the following page. - - - _Stuffing for Soals baked._ - -Pound cold beef, mutton, or veal, a little, then add some fat bacon, -that has been lightly fried, cut small, and some onions, a little -garlick or shalot, some parsley, anchovy, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. -Pound all fine with a few crumbs, and bind it with two or three yelks of -eggs. - -The heads of the fish are to be left on one side of the split part, and -kept on the outer side of the roll; and when served, the heads are to be -turned towards each other in the dish. - -Garnish with fried or dried parsley. - - - _Soal, Cod, or Turbot Pie: another sort of stuffing._ - -Boil two pounds of eels tender; pick all the flesh clean from the bones; -throw the latter into the liquor the eels were boiled in, with a little -mace, salt and parsley, and boil till very good, and come to a quarter -of a pint, and strain it. In the mean time cut the flesh of the eels -fine, likewise some lemonpeel, parsley, and an anchovy: put to them -pepper, salt, nutmeg, and some crumbs. Melt four ounces of butter and -mix, then lay it in a dish at the bottom: cut the flesh of two or three -soals clean from the bones, and fins; lay it on the forcemeat, and pour -the eelbroth in. The bones of the soals should be boiled with those of -the eels. You may boil them with one or two little eels, and pour it, -well seasoned, on the fish, and put no forcemeat. - - - _An excellent way of dressing a large Plaice, especially if there be a - roe._ - -Sprinkle it with salt, and keep it twenty four hours, then wash and wipe -it dry: wet it over with eggs; cover with crumbs of bread; make some -lard or fine dripping, and two large spoonfuls of vinegar boiling hot, -lay the fish in, and fry it a fine colour. Drain it from the fat, and -serve with fried parsley round, and anchovy sauce. You may dip the fish -in vinegar, and not put it in the pan. - - - _To fry Smelts._ - -They should not be washed more than necessary to clean. Dry in a cloth, -then lightly flour, but shake it off. Dip them in plenty of egg, then -into bread crumbs grated fine, and plunge them into a good pan of -boiling lard. Let them continue gently boiling, and a few minutes will -make them a bright yellow brown. Take care not to take off the light -roughness of the crumbs, or their beauty will be lost. - - - _Boiled Carp._ - -Serve in a napkin, and with the sauce directed for it among sauces. - - - _Cod’s head and shoulders_, - -Will eat much finer, by having a little salt rubbed down the bone, and -along the thick part, even if to be eaten the same day. - -Tie it up, and put on the fire in cold water which will completely cover -it: throw a handful of salt in it. Great care must be taken to serve it -without the smallest speck of black or scum. Garnish with a large -quantity of double parsley, lemon, horseradish, and the milt, roe, and -liver, and smelts fried, if approved. If the latter, be cautious that no -water hang about the fish, or the beauty of the smelts will be taken -off, as well as their flavour. - -Serve with plenty of oyster or shrimp sauce, and anchovy, and butter. - -Some people boil the cod whole; but there is no fish, that is more -proper to help, than in a large head and shoulders, the thinner parts -being overdone and tasteless before the thick be ready: but the whole -fish may be purchased, at times, more reasonably, and the lower half, if -sprinkled the least, and hung up, will be in high perfection one or two -days: or it may be made salter, and served with egg sauce, potatoes, and -parsnips. - - - _Crimp Cod._ - -Boil, broil, or fry. - - - _Cod sounds boiled._ - -Soak them in warm water till soft, then scrape and clean; and if to be -dressed white, boil them in milk and water, and when tender serve them -in a napkin. Egg sauce. - - - _Cod sounds ragout._ - -Prepare as above, then stew them in white gravy seasoned; cream, butter, -and a little bit of flour added before you serve, gently boiling up. A -bit of lemonpeel, nutmeg, and the least pounded mace, should give the -flavour. - - - _Curry of Cod_, - -Should be made of sliced cod that has either been crimped, or sprinkled -a day to make it firm. Fry it of a fine brown, with onions, and stew it -with a good white gravy, a little curry powder, a bit of butter and -flour, three or four spoonfuls of rich cream, salt and Cayenne. - - - _Fish Pie._ - -Cod or Haddock, sprinkled with salt to give firmness, slice and season -with pepper and salt, and place in a dish mixed with oysters. Put the -oyster liquor, a little broth, and a bit of flour and butter, boiled -together, into the dish cold. Put a paste over; and when it comes from -the oven, pour in some warm cream. If you please you may put parsley -instead of oysters. - - - _Haddock._ - -Do the same as cod, and serve with the same sauce; or, stuff with -forcemeat as page eleventh. Or broil them with stuffing. - - - _Oysters to stew._ - -Open them and separate the liquor from them, then wash them from the -grit: strain the liquor, and put with the oysters a bit of mace and -lemonpeel, and a few white peppers. Simmer them very gently, and put -some cream, and a little flour and butter. - -Serve with sippets. - - - _Scalloped Oysters._ - -Put them with crumbs of bread, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a bit of -butter, in scallop shells or saucers, and bake them before the fire, in -a Dutch oven. - - - _Oyster Patties or small Pie._ - -As you open the oysters, separate them from the liquor, which strain; -parboil them, after taking off the beards. Parboil sweetbreads, and -cutting them in slices, lay them and the oysters in layers: season very -lightly with salt, pepper, and mace. Then put half a teacup of liquor, -and the same of gravy. Bake in a slow oven; and before you serve, put a -teacup of cream, a little more oyster liquor and a cup of white gravy, -all warmed, but not boiled. If for patties, the oysters should be cut in -small dice, gently stewed, and seasoned as above, and put into the paste -when ready for table. - - - _Fried Oysters, to garnish boiled fish._ - -Make a batter of flour, milk, and eggs; season it a very little; dip the -oysters in it, and fry them a fine yellow brown. A little nutmeg should -be put into the seasoning, and a few crumbs of bread into the flour. - - - _To pickle Oysters._ - -Wash four dozen of oysters in their own liquor; then strain, and in it -simmer them till scalded enough: take them out and cover them. To the -liquor put a few peppercorns, a blade of mace, a table spoonful of salt, -three of white wine, and four of vinegar: simmer fifteen minutes; and -when cold, pour it on the oysters, and keep them in a jar close covered. - - - _Another way._ - -Open the number you intend to pickle: put them into a saucepan, with -their own liquor, for ten minutes; simmer them very gently; then put -them into a jar, one by one, that none of the grit may stick to them, -and cover them, when cold, with the pickle thus made. Boil the liquor -with a bit of mace, lemon peel, and black peppers; and to every hundred, -put two spoonfuls of the best undistilled vinegar. - -They should be kept in small jars, and tied close with bladder, for the -air will spoil them. - - - _Stuffing for Pike, Haddock, &c._ - -Of fat bacon, beefsuet, and fresh butter, equal parts; some parsley, -thyme, and savory; a little onion, and a few leaves of scented marjoram, -shred finely; an anchovy or two; a little salt and nutmeg, and some -pepper. - -If you have oysters, three or four may be used instead of anchovies. Mix -all with crumbs of bread, and two yelks and whites of eggs, well beaten, -and parsley shred fine. - - - _Sprats_, - -When cleaned, should be fastened in rows by a skewer, run through the -heads, and then broiled and served hot and hot. - -Sprats baked, as herrings, page 8. - -—— fried, as do. page 9. - - - _To dress fresh Sturgeon._ - -Cut slices, rub egg over, then sprinkle with crumbs of bread, parsley, -pepper, salt, and fold in paper, and broil gently. - -Sauce; butter, anchovy, and soy. - - - _Thornback, or Skate_, - -Should be hung one day at least, before it be dressed, and may be served -either boiled, or fried in crumbs, being first dipped in egg. - - - _Crimp Skate._ - -Boiled, and sent up in a napkin; or fried as above. - - - _Maids_, - -Should be likewise hung one day at least. May be boiled or fried; or if -of a tolerable size, the middle may be boiled and the fins fried. They -should be dipped in egg, and covered with crumbs. - - - - - OBSERVATIONS ON DRESSING FISH. - - -If the fishmonger does not clean it, fish is seldom very nicely done; -but those in great towns wash it beyond what is necessary for cleaning, -and by perpetual watering diminish the flavor. When quite clean, if to -be boiled, some salt and a little vinegar should be put to the water to -give firmness; but cod, whiting and haddock, are far better if a little -salted, and kept a day; and if not very hot weather they will be good in -two days. - -Those who know how to purchase fish, may, by taking more at a time than -they want for one day, often get it cheap, and that which will hang by -sprinkling, may then be bought to advantage. - -The fish must be put into the water while cold, and set to do very -gently, or the outside will break before the inner part be done. - -The fishplate on which it is done, may be drawn up to see if it be -ready; it will leave the bone when it is. It should be then immediately -taken out of the water, or it will be woolly. The fishplate should be -set crossways over the kettle, to keep hot for serving, and a clean -cloth should cover the fish to prevent its losing its colour. - -Small fish, nicely fried in egg, and crumbs, make a dish of fish far -more elegant than served plain. Great attention should be paid to -garnishing fish; plenty of horseradish, parsley, and lemon. - -When well done, and with very good sauce, fish is more attended to than -almost any other dish. The liver and roe should be placed on the dish, -so conspicuously that the lady may see them, and help a part to every -one. The sound of the cod, its head, and the head of carp are reckoned -the prime parts; and it is a part of necessary attention to help, or at -least offer some of the best to one’s friends; nor is it any excuse for -the mistress’s negligence, that it is the fashion of the present day for -those who sit at her right or left hand to help the company, which she -must see they do properly. - -If salmon is to be dressed, great care is necessary that it be done -enough. No vinegar should be boiled with it. - -If fish is to be fried or broiled, it must be wrapt in a nice soft -cloth, after it is well cleaned and washed. When perfectly dry, wet with -an egg, if the former way, and sprinkle the finest crumbs of bread over -it; then having a thick bottomed fryingpan on the fire, with a large -quantity of lard or dripping boiling hot, plunge the fish into it, and -let it fry middlingly quick, till the colour be a fine brown yellow, and -it be judged ready: if the latter take place first, the cook should draw -the pan to the side of the fire, lest the colour be spoiled. She should -then carefully take it up, and either place it on a large sieve turned -upwards, and to be kept for that purpose only, or on the underside of a -dish, to drain; and if wanted very nice, a sheet of cap paper must be -put to receive the fish, which should look a beautiful colour, and all -the crumbs appear distinct; the fish being free from all grease. - -Garnish with a fringe of curled raw parsley, or parsley fried, which -must be thus done: when washed and picked, throw it again into clean -water; when the lard or dripping boils, throw the parsley into it -immediately from the water, and instantly it will be green, and crisp, -and must be taken up with a slice. This may be done after the fish is -fried. - -If fish is to be broiled, it must be seasoned and floured, and put on a -gridiron that is very clean; and when hot, it should be rubbed with a -bit of suet to prevent the fish from sticking. It must be broiled on a -very clear fire, that it may not taste of smoke; and not too near, that -it may not be scorched. - - - _An excellent imitation of Sturgeon._ - -Take a fine large, but not an old turkey; pick it most nicely; singe it, -and make it very clean; bone, wash, and dry it; tie it across and -across, with a bit of mat string, washed clean, as they tie sturgeon. -Put into a very nice tin saucepan a quart of water, the same of vinegar, -and of white wine, that is not sweet, and a very large handful of salt. -Let boil, and skim well, then put in the turkey: when done, take it out -and tighten the strings. Let the liquor boil half an hour after, and -when cold put it on the turkey. If salt or vinegar be wanting, add when -cold. This will keep some months. You eat it with oil and vinegar, or -sugar and vinegar. It is more delicate than sturgeon, and makes a pretty -variety, if the real is not to be had. Cover it with fennel when brought -to table. - - - - - ON DRESSING MEATS. - - -Wash all meats before you dress; if for boiling, the colour will be -better for soaking; if for roasting, dry it. - -Boiling in a well floured cloth, will make meat white. - -Particular charge must be given that the pot be well skimmed the -_moment_ it boils, otherwise the foulness will be dispersed over the -meat. The more soups or broths are skimmed, the better and cleaner they -will be. - -The boiler and utensils should be kept delicately clean. - -Put the meat in cold water, and flour it well first. If meat be boiled -quick it will be hard; but care must be taken that in boiling slow it -does not cease, or the meat will be underdone. - -If the steam be kept in, the water will not much decrease; therefore -when you wish to evaporate, remove the cover of the soup pot. - -Vegetables should not be dressed with the meat, except carrots or -parsnips with boiled beef. - -Weigh the joint, and allow a quarter of an hour to each pound, and about -twenty minutes over. If for roasting, it should be put at a good -distance from the fire, and brought gradually nearer when the inner part -becomes hot, which will prevent its being scorched while yet raw. Meat -should be much basted, and when nearly done, floured to make it look -frothed. - -Veal and mutton should have a little paper put over the fat to preserve -it. If not fat enough to allow for basting, a little good dripping -answers as well as butter. - -The cook should be careful to spit meat so as not to run the spit -through the best parts; and she should observe that her spit be well -cleaned before, and when she is going to serve, or a black stain appears -on the meat. In many joints the spit will pass into the bones, and run -along them for some distance, so as not to injure the prime of the meat; -and she should have leaden skewers to enable her to balance it; for want -of which, ignorant servants often are foiled in the time of serving. - -In roasting meat, it is a very good way to put a little salt and water -into the dripping pan, and baste for a little while with it before it be -done with its own fat or dripping. When dry, dust it with flour, and -baste as usual. - -Time, distance, basting often, and a clear fire, of a proper size for -what is required, are the first articles of a good cook’s attention in -roasting. - -Old meats do not require so much dressing as young: not that they are -sooner done, but they can be eaten with the gravy more in. - -Be careful in roasting wild fowls to keep a clear brisk fire. Roast them -of a light brown, but not till their gravy runs; they loose their fine -flavour if too much done. Tame fowls require more roasting: they are a -long time before they are hot through, and must be often basted to keep -up a froth, and it makes the colour better. Pigs and geese require a -brisk fire, and to be turned quick. - -Hares and rabbits require time, and care to turn the two ends to the -fire, which are less likely to be done enough than the middle part. - -Choose mutton by the fineness of its grain, the deep red of the flesh, -and bright whiteness of the fat. For roasting, it should hang as long as -it will keep, the hind quarter especially, but not so as to taint; for, -whatever fashion may authorize, putrid juices ought not to be conveyed -into the stomach. - -Mutton, for boiling, will not look of a good colour if it has long hung. -Small mutton is preferred. - -Great care should be taken to preserve by paper the fat of what is -roasted. - - - _To keep Venison._ - -Preserve the venison dry; wash it with milk and water very clean; dry it -with clean cloths, till not the least damp remain. Then dust pounded -ginger over every part, which is a good preventive against the fly. By -thus managing and watching, it will hang a fortnight. When to be used, -wash it with a little lukewarm water, and dry it. - - - _Venison._ - -A haunch of buck will take about three hours and three quarters -roasting; doe, three hours and a quarter. Put a coarse paste of brown -flour and water, and a paper over that, to cover all the fat: baste it -well with dripping, and keep it at a distance to get hot at the bone by -degrees. When nearly done, remove the covering, and baste it with -butter, and froth it up before you serve. - -Gravy for it should be put into a boat, and not in the dish (unless -there be none in the venison), and made thus: cut off the fat from two -or three pounds of a loin of old mutton, and set it in steaks on a -gridiron for a few minutes, just to brown one side: put them in a -saucepan, with a quart of water: cover quite close for an hour, and -gently simmer it; then uncover, and stew till the gravy be reduced to a -point. Season with only salt. - -Currantjelly sauce must be served in a boat. - -Formerly pap sauce was eaten with venison, which, as some still like it, -may be necessary to direct. Grate white bread, and boil it with port and -water, a large stick of cinnamon; and when quite smooth, remove the -latter, and add sugar. Claret wine may be used for it. - -Make the jelly sauce thus. Beat some currantjelly, and a spoonful or two -of port, then set it over the fire till melted. Where jelly runs short, -put more wine, and a few lumps of sugar to the jelly, and melt as above. - - - _To make a Pasty of Beef or Mutton, to eat as well as Venison._ - -Bone a small rump, or a piece of sirloin of beef, or a fat loin of -mutton: the former is better than mutton, after hanging several days, if -the weather permits. Beat it very well with a rolling pin, then rub ten -pounds of meat with four ounces of sugar, and pour over it a glass of -port wine, and the same of vinegar. Let it lie five days and nights: -wash and wipe the meat very dry, and season it very high with pepper, -Jamaica pepper, nutmeg, and salt. Lay in your dish, and to ten pounds -put one pound or near of butter, spreading it over the meat. Put a crust -round the edges, and cover with a thick one, or it will be overdone -before the meat be soaked. It must be done in a slow oven. - -Set the bones in a pan in the oven, with no more water than will cover -them, and one glass of port wine, a little pepper and salt, that you may -have a little rich gravy to add to the pasty when drawn. - -_Note._ Sugar gives a greater shortness, and better flavor to meats than -salt, too great a quantity of which hardens; and it is quite as great a -preservative. - - - _Haunch, Neck and Shoulders of Venison._ - -Roast with paste, as directed above, and the same sauce. - - - _Stewed Shoulder._ - -Let the meat hang till you judge proper to dress it, then take out the -bone: beat the meat with a rolling pin. Lay some slices of mutton fat, -that has lain a few hours in a little port wine, among it: sprinkle a -little black and Jamaica pepper over it, in finest powder: roll it up -tight, and fillet it. Set it in a stewpan that will only just hold it, -with some mutton or beef gravy, not strong, half a pint of port, and -some pepper and pimento. Simmer, close covered, and as slow as you can, -for three or four hours. When quite tender, take off the tape, set the -meat on a dish, and strain the gravy over. Serve with currantjelly -sauce. - -This is the best way to dress this joint, unless it be very fat, and -then it should be roasted. The bone should be stewed with it. - - - _To prepare Venison for Pasty._ - -Take the bones out, then season and beat the meat. Lay it in a stone jar -in large pieces: pour upon it some plain drawn beef gravy, but not a -strong one: lay the bones on top, then set the jar in a waterbath, that -is, a saucepan of water over the fire; simmer three or four hours; then -leave it in a cold place till next day. Remove the cake of fat, and lay -the meat in handsome pieces on the dish: if not sufficiently seasoned, -add more pepper, salt, or pimento, as necessary. Put some of the gravy, -and keep the remainder for the time of serving. If the venison be thus -prepared, it will not require so much time to bake, or such a very thick -crust as is usual, and by which the under part is seldom done through. - - - _Venison Pasty._ - -A shoulder, boned, makes a good pasty; but it must be beaten and -seasoned, and the want of fat supplied by that of a fine well hung loin -of mutton, steeped twenty four hours in equal parts of rape, vinegar, -and port. - -The shoulder being sinewy, it will be of advantage to rub it well with -sugar for two or three days; and when to be used, wipe it perfectly -clean from it, and the wine. - -A mistake used to prevail, that venison could not be baked enough; but, -as above directed, three or four hours in a slow oven will be sufficient -to make it tender, and the flavor will be preserved. Either in shoulder -or side, the meat must be cut in pieces, and laid with fat between, that -it may be proportioned to each person, without breaking up the pasty to -find it. Lay some pepper and salt, at the bottom of the dish, and some -butter, then the meat nicely packed, that it may be sufficiently done, -but not lie hollow to harden at the edges. - -The venison bones should be boiled with some fine old mutton. Of this -gravy put half a pint cold into the dish, then lay butter on the -venison, and cover, as well as line the sides with a thick crust; but do -not put one under the meat. Keep the remainder of the gravy till the -pasty comes from the oven; put it into the middle by a funnel, quite -hot, and shake the dish to mix well. It should be seasoned with pepper -and salt. - - - _An imitation of Venison Pasty._ - -Choose a large well fed loin of mutton; hang it ten days, then bone it, -leaving the meat as whole as possible. Cover it with brown sugar a day -and night; then lay it in a pickle of half a pint of port wine, and half -a pint of rape or common vinegar, twenty four hours more: then shake it -well in it to take off the sugar, but do not wash, only wipe it. Season -as above, and bake; making a gravy of the bones. - -Crust for the pasty, see under the article of crusts. - - - _Hashed Venison_, - -Should be warmed with its own, or gravy without seasoning, as before, -and only warmed through, not boiled. If there be no fat left, cut some -slices of mutton fat, set on the fire, with a little port wine and -sugar: simmer till dry; then add it to the hash, and it will eat as well -as that of the venison. - - - _Beef or Pork, to be salted for eating immediately._ - -The piece should not weigh more than five or six pounds. Salt it very -thoroughly just before you put it in the pot. Take a coarse cloth, flour -it well, put the meat in and fold it up close. Put it into a pot of -boiling water, and boil it as long as you would any salt beef of the -same size, and it will be as salt as if done four or five days. - - - _Beef Alamode._ - -Choose a piece of thick flank of a fine heifer or ox. Cut into long -slices some fat bacon, but quite free from yellow. Let each bit be near -an inch thick, and dip them in vinegar, and then in a seasoning ready -prepared of salt, black and Jamaica peppers and a clove in finest -powder, with parsley, chives, thyme, savory and knotted marjorum, shred -as small as possible, and well mixed. With a sharp knife make holes deep -enough to let in the larding; then rub the beef over with the seasoning, -and bind it up tight with tape. Set it in a well tinned pot over a fire -or rather stove. Three or four onions must be fried brown and put to the -beef, with two or three carrots, one turnip, and a head or two of -celery, and a small quantity of water. Let it simmer gently ten or -twelve hours, or till extremely tender, turning the meat twice. - -Put the gravy in a pan, remove the fat, keep the beef covered, then put -them together, and add a glass of port wine. Remove the tape, and serve -with the vegetables: or you may strain them off, and send up fresh, cut -in dice for garnish. Onions roasted, and then stewed with the gravy, are -a great improvement. A teacup full of vinegar should be stewed with the -beef. - - - _Stewed rump of Beef._ - -Wash it well: season it high with pepper, Cayenne, salt, Jamaica pepper, -three cloves, a blade of mace, all in finest powder. Bind it up tight, -and lay it in a pot that will just hold it. Fry three large onions, -sliced, and put to it, with three carrots, two turnips, a shalot, four -cloves, a blade of mace, and some celery. Cover the meat with good beef -broth, or weak gravy. Simmer as gently as possible for several hours, -till quite tender. Clear off the fat, and add to the gravy half a pint -of port wine, a glass of vinegar, and a large spoonful of catsup; simmer -half an hour, and serve in a deep dish. - -Garnish with carrots, turnips, or truffles, and morels, or pickles of -different colours cut small, and laid in little heaps separate, chopped -parsley, chives, beetroot, &c. If when done the gravy be too much to -fill the dish, take only a part to season for serving: the less wafer -the better; and to increase the richness, add a few beef bones and -shanks of mutton in stewing. - -A spoonful or two of made mustard is a great improvement to the gravy. - -Rump roasted is excellent; but in the country is generally sold whole -with the edgebone, or cut across instead of lengthways, as in London, -when there is one piece for boiling, and the rump for stewing or -roasting. - - - _Stewed Brisket._ - -Put the part that has the hard fat into a stew pot, with a small -quantity of water; let it boil up, and skim it thoroughly; then add -carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and a few peppercorns. Stew till -extremely tender; then take out the flat bones, and remove all the fat -from the soup. Either serve that and the meat in a tureen, or the former -alone, and the meat on a dish, garnished with some of the vegetables. -The following sauce is much admired, served with the beef. Take half a -pint of the soup, and mix with a spoonful of catsup, a glass of port -wine, a teaspoonful of made mustard, a little flour, a bit of butter, -and salt: boil all together a few minutes, then pour it round the meat. -Chop capers, walnuts, red cabbage, pickled cucumbers, and chives or -parsley, small, and put in separate heaps over it. - - -_To salt Beef red, which is extremely good to eat fresh from the pickle, - or to hang to dry._ - -Choose a piece of beef with as little bone as you can, the flank is most -proper: sprinkle it, and let it drain a day; then rub it with common -salt, saltpetre, and bay salt, but of the second a small proportion; and -you may add a few grains of cochineal, all in fine powder. Rub the -pickle every day into the meat for a week, then only turn it. - -It will be excellent in eight days. In sixteen, drain it from the -pickle, and let it be smoked at the oven mouth, where heated with wood, -or send to the baker’s. A few days will smoke it. - -A little of the coarsest sugar may be added to the salt. - -It eats well boiled tender with greens or carrots. If to be grated as -Dutch, then cut a _lean_ bit: boil it till extremely tender; and while -hot put it under a press. When cold, fold it in a sheet of paper, and it -will keep in a dry place two or three months. - - - _Pressed Beef._ - -Salt a bit of brisket, thin part of the flank, or the tops of the ribs, -with salt and saltpetre, five days; then boil it gently till extremely -tender. Put it under a great weight, or in a cheese press, till -perfectly cold. - -It eats excellently cold, and for Sandwiches. - - - _Hunter’s Beef._ - -To a round of beef that weighs twenty five pounds, take three ounces of -saltpetre, three ounces of coarsest sugar, an ounce of cloves, one -nutmeg, half an ounce of pimento, and three handfuls of common salt, all -in the finest powder. - -The beef should hang two or three days, then rub the above well into it. -Turn and rub it daily for two or three weeks. The bone must be removed -at first. When to be dressed, dip it in cold water to take off the loose -spice: bind it up tight with tape: put it into a pan, and a teacup of -water at bottom: put over the pan a brown crust and paper, and bake it -five or six hours. When cold, remove the paste and fillet. - -The gravy is very fine, and a little of it adds greatly to the flavor of -any hash, soup, &c. - -Both gravy and beef will keep some time. The latter should be cut with a -very sharp knife, and quite smooth, to prevent waste. - - - _Collared Beef._ - -Choose the thin end of the flank of fine mellow beef, but not too fat. -Lay it in a dish with salt, and saltpetre. Turn and rub it every day for -a week, and keep it cool. Then take out every bone and gristle; remove -the skin of the inside part, and cover it thick with the following -seasoning cut small: a large handful of parsley, the same of sage, some -thyme, marjorum, pennyroyal, pepper, salt and pimento. Roll the meat up -as tight as possible, and bind it; then boil it gently for seven or -eight hours. A cloth must be put round before the tape. Put the beef -under a good weight while hot, without undoing it; the shape will then -be oval. Part of a breast of veal, rolled in with the beef, looks and -eats very well. - - - _Beefsteak and Oyster Sauce._ - -Strain off the liquor from the oysters, and throw them in cold water to -take off the grit, while you simmer the former with a bit of mace and -lemonpeel; then put the oysters in, stew them a few minutes, and add a -little cream if you have it, and some butter, rubbed in a bit of flour; -let them boil up once, and have rump steaks, well seasoned and broiled, -ready for throwing the oyster sauce over the moment you are to serve. - - - _Staffordshire Beefsteaks._ - -Beat them a little with a rolling pin: flour and season them; then fry -with sliced onion to a fine light brown. Lay the steaks in a stewpan, -and pour as much boiling water over as will serve for sauce: stew them -very gently half an hour, and add a spoonful of catsup or walnut liquor -before you serve. - - - _Italian Beefsteaks._ - -Cut a fine large steak from a rump that has been well hung; or it will -do from any _tender_ part. Beat it, and season with pepper, salt and -onion. Lay it in an iron stewpan, that has a cover to fit quite close; -set it at the side of a fire, without water. Take care it does not burn, -but it must have a strong heat. In two or three hours it will be quite -tender, then serve with its own gravy. - - - _Beef Collop._ - -Cut thin slices of beef from the rump or other tender parts, and divide -them in pieces three inches long: beat with the blade of a knife, and -flour them. Fry the collops quick in butter two minutes; then lay them -in a small stewpan, and cover with a pint of gravy: add a bit of butter -rubbed in flour, pepper, salt, the least bit of shalot shred as fine as -possible, half a walnut, four small pickled cucumbers, and a teaspoonful -of capers cut small. Observe it does not boil; and serve the stew in a -very hot covered dish. - - - _Beefsteak Pudding._ - -Prepare some fine steaks as above: roll them with fat between, and if -you approve _shred_ onion, add a very little. Lay a paste of suet in a -bason, and put in the rollers of steaks: cover the bason with a paste, -and pinch the edges to keep the gravy in. Cover with a cloth tied close, -and let the pudding boil slowly, but for a length of time. - - - _Beefsteak Pie._ - -Prepare the steaks as above, and when seasoned and rolled with fat in -each, put them in a dish, with puff paste round the edges. Put a little -water in the dish, and cover it with a good crust. - - - _Baked Beefsteak Pudding._ - -Make a batter of milk, two eggs, and flour, or which is much better, -potatoes boiled and mashed through a colander. Lay a little of it at the -bottom of the dish, then put in the steaks prepared as above, and very -well seasoned; pour the remainder of the batter over them, and bake it. - - - _Podovies, or Beef Patties._ - -Shred raredone dressed beef, with a little fat: season with pepper, -salt, and a little shalot or onion. Make a plain paste, roll it thin, -and cut it in shape like an apple puff; fill it with the mince, pinch -the edges, and fry them of a nice brown. The paste should be made with a -small quantity of butter, egg, and milk. - - - _Beef Palates._ - -Simmer them in water several hours, till they will peel; then cut the -palates in slices, or leave them whole, as you choose, and stew them in -a rich gravy till as tender as possible. Before you serve, season with -Cayenne, salt, and catsup. If the gravy was drawn clear, add to the -above some butter and flour. - - - _Beef Cakes for side dish of dressed meat._ - -Pound some beef that is raredone, with a little fat bacon or ham. Season -with pepper, salt, and a little shalot or garlic: mix them well, and -make into small cakes three inches long, and half as wide and thick: fry -them a light brown, and serve them in a good thick gravy. - - - _Potted Beef._ - -Take two pounds of lean beef, rub it with saltpetre, and let it lie one -night; then salt with common salt, and cover it with water four days in -a small pan. Dry it with a cloth, and season with pepper: lay it into as -small a pan as will hold it; cover it with coarse paste, and bake it -five hours in a very cool oven. Put no liquor in. - -When cold, pick out the strings and fat; beat the meat very fine with a -quarter of a pound of fine butter just warm, but not oiled, and as much -of the gravy as will make it into a paste. Put it into very small pots, -and cover them with melted butter. - - - _Another way._ - -Take beef that has been dressed, either boiled or roasted: beat it in a -mortar with some pepper, salt, a few cloves, grated nutmeg, a little -fine butter just warm. - -This eats as well, but the colour is not so fine. - - - _Hessian Soup and Ragout._ - -Clean the root of a tongue very nicely, and half an ox head, with salt -and water, and soak them afterwards in plain water; then stew them in -five or six quarts of water till tolerably tender. Let the soup stand to -be cold: take off the cake of fat, which will make good paste for hot -meat pies, or serve to baste. Put to the soup a pint of split peas or a -quart of whole, twelve carrots, six turnips, six potatoes, six large -onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two heads of celery. Simmer them -without the meat, till the vegetables are done enough to pulp with the -peas through a sieve, when the soup will be about the consistence of -cream. Season it with pepper, salt, mace, pimento, a clove or two, and a -little Cayenne, all in the finest powder. If the peas are bad, the soup -may not be thick enough; then boil in it a slice of roll, and put -through the colander; or put a little rice flour, mixing it by degrees. - - - _The Ragout._ - -Cut the nicest part of the head in small thick pieces, the kernels, and -part of the fat of the root of the tongue. Rub these with some of the -same seasoning, as you put them into a quart of the liquor, kept out for -that purpose before the vegetables were added; flour well, and simmer -them till nicely tender. Then put a little mushroom and walnut catsup, a -little soy, and a glass of port wine, a teaspoonful of made mustard, and -boil all up together before served. - -If for company, small eggs and forcemeat balls. - -This mode furnishes an excellent soup, and a ragout at small expense, -and they are uncommon. The other part will warm for the family. - - - _Stewed Oxcheek plain._ - -Soak and cleanse a fine cheek the day before you would have it eaten. -Put it into a stewpot that will cover close, with three quarts of water: -simmer it, after it has first boiled up and been well skimmed. In two -hours put plenty of carrots, leeks, two or three turnips, a bunch of -sweet herbs, some whole pepper, and four Jamaica’s. Skim frequently. -When the meat is tender, take it out: let the soup go cold: remove the -cake of fat, and serve it separate or with the meat. - -It should be of a fine brown, which may be done by burnt sugar, or by -frying some onions quite brown with flour, and simmering them with it. -The latter improves the flavour of all soups and gravies of the brown -kind. - -If vegetables are not approved in the soup, they may be taken out, and a -small roll be toasted, or bread fried and added. Celery is a great -addition, and should be always served. Where it is not to be got, the -seed gives an equally good flavour, boiled in, and strained off. - - - _To dress an Oxcheek another way._ - -Soak half a head three hours, and clean it with plenty of water. Take -the meat off the bones; put it into a pan with a large onion, a bunch of -sweet herbs, some bruised pimento, pepper, and salt. - -Lay the bones on the top: pour on two or three quarts of water: cover -the pan close with brown paper, or a dish that will fit close. Let it -stand eight or ten hours in a slow oven, or simmer it by the side of the -fire, or on a hot hearth. When done tender, let it go cold, having moved -the meat into a clean pan. Take the cake of fat off, and warm the head -in pieces in the soup. Put what vegetables you choose. - - - _Marrow Bones._ - -Cover the top with floured cloth: boil, and serve with dry toast. - - - _To dress the Inside of a cold Sirloin of Beef._ - -Cut out all the meat, and a little fat, in pieces as thick as your -finger, and two inches long. Dredge with flour, and fry in butter, of a -nice brown. Drain the butter from the meat, and toss up in a rich gravy, -seasoned with pepper, salt, anchovy, and shalot. On no account let it -boil. Before you serve, add two spoonfuls of vinegar. - -Garnish with crimped parsley. - - - _Fricassee of cold Roast Beef._ - -Cut the beef into very thin slices: shred a handful of parsley very -small: cut an onion in quarters, and put all together into a stewpan, -with a piece of butter, and some strong broth. Season with salt and -pepper, and simmer very gently a quarter of an hour; then mix into it -the yelks of two eggs, a glass of port wine, and a spoonful of vinegar: -stir it quick, and, rubbing the dish with shalot, turn the fricassee -into it. - - -_To dress Cold Beef that has not been done enough, called Beef Olives._ - -Cut slices half an inch thick, and four square: lay on them a forcemeat -of crumbs of bread, shalot, a little suet or fat, pepper, and salt. Roll -them, and fasten with a small skewer. Put them into a stewpan, with some -gravy made of the beef bones, or the gravy of the meat, and a spoonful -or two of water, and stew them till tender. Fresh meat will do. - - - _To dress ditto, called Sanders._ - -Mince small beef or mutton, onion, pepper, and salt; add a little gravy: -put into scallopshells or saucers: make them three parts full; then fill -them up with potatoes, mashed with a little cream: put a bit of butter -on the top, and brown them in an oven, or before the fire. - - - _To dress ditto, called Cecils._ - -Mince any kind of meat, crumbs of bread, a good deal of onion, some -anchovies, lemonpeel, salt, nutmeg, chopped parsley, and pepper, and a -bit of butter warm, and mix these over a fire for a few minutes. When -cool enough, make them up into balls of the size and shape of a turkey’s -egg, with an egg. Fry them, when sprinkled with fine crumbs, of a yellow -brown, and serve with gravy as above. - - - _Minced Beef._ - -Shred fine the underdone part, with some of the fat. Put into a small -stewpan, some onion, or shalot, (a very little will do,) a little water, -pepper, and salt: boil till the onion be quite soft; then put some of -the gravy of the meat to it, and the mince. Do not let it boil. Having a -small hot dish, with sippets of bread ready, pour the mince into it; but -first mix a large spoonful of vinegar with it: or if shalot vinegar, -there will be no need of the onion, or raw shalot. - - - _Hashed Beef._ - -Do the same, only the meat is to be in slices; and you may add a -spoonful of walnut liquor or catsup. - -Observe, that it is owing to boiling hashes or minces, that they are -hard. All sorts of stews, or meat dressed second hand, should only be -simmered; and the latter only hot through. - - - _To preserve Suet a twelvemonth._ - -As soon as it comes in, choose the firmest part, and pick free from skin -and veins. In a very nice saucepan, set it at some distance from the -fire, that it may melt without frying, or it will taste. - -When melted, pour it into a pan of cold water. When in a hard cake, wipe -it very dry: fold it in fine paper, and then in a linen bag, and keep in -a dry, but not hot place. When used, scrape it fine; and it will make a -fine crust, either with or without butter. - - - _Round of Beef_, - -Should be carefully salted, and wet with the pickle for eight or ten -days. The bone should be cut out first, and the beef skewered and -filleted, to make it quite round. It may be stuffed with parsley, if -approved; in which case, the holes to admit it must be made with a sharp -pointed knife, and the parsley coarsely cut and stuffed in tight. As -soon as it boils, it should be skimmed, and afterwards kept boiling very -gently. - - - _To roast Tongue and Udder._ - -After cleaning the tongue well, salt it with common salt and saltpetre -three days; then boil it, and likewise a fine young udder, and some fat -to it, till tolerably tender; then tie the thick part of one to the thin -part of the other, and roast the tongue and udder together. - -Serve them with a good gravy, and currantjelly sauce. A few cloves -should be stuck in the udder. - -This is an excellent dish. - - - _To pickle Tongues for boiling._ - -Cut off the root, leaving a little of the kernel and fat. Sprinkle some -salt, and let it drain from the slime till next day: then, for each -tongue, mix a large spoonful of common salt, the same of coarse sugar, -and about half as much of saltpetre; rub it well in, and do so every -day. In a week add another heaped spoonful of salt. If rubbed every day, -a tongue will be ready in a fortnight; but if only turned in the pickle -daily, it will keep four or five weeks without being too salt. - -If you dry tongues, write the date on a parchment and tie on. Smoke -them, or plainly dry them, if you like best. - -When to be dressed, boil it extremely tender: allow five hours; and if -done sooner, it is easily kept hot. The longer kept after drying, the -higher it will be: if hard, it may require soaking three or four hours. - - - _Another way._ - -Clean as above. For two tongues, one ounce of saltpetre, and one ounce -of sal prunella. Rub them well. In two days, having well rubbed them, -cover them with common salt. Turn them daily for three weeks; then dry, -rub in bran, and paper or smoke them. In ten days they will be fit to -eat if not dried. - - - _Beef Heart._ - -Wash with care. Stuff as you do hare, and serve with rich gravy, and -currantjelly sauce. - -Hash with the same, and port wine. - - - _Tripe._ - -Tripe may be served in a tureen. Stewed with milk and onion till tender. -Melted butter for sauce. - -Or, fried in small bits dipped in butter: or stew the thin part, cut in -bits, in gravy, and thicken with flour and butter, and add a little -catsup: or fricasseed with white sauce. - - - _Bubble and Squeak._ - -Boil, chop, and fry, with a little butter, pepper, and salt, some -cabbage, and lay on it slices of raredone beef, lightly fried. - -In both the following receipts, the roots must be taken off the tongue -before salted. - - - _Stewed Tongue._ - -Salt a tongue with saltpetre and common salt for a week, turning it -daily. Boil it tender enough to peel. When done, stew it in a moderately -strong gravy. Season with soy, mushroom catsup, Cayenne, pounded cloves, -and salt if necessary. - -Serve with truffles, morels, and mushrooms. - - - _An excellent mode of doing Tongues to eat cold._ - -Season with common salt and saltpetre, brown sugar, a little bay salt, -pepper, cloves, mace, and pimento, in finest powder, for fourteen days: -then remove the pickle, put it in a small pan, and lay some butter on -it; cover with a brown crust, and bake slowly till so tender that a -straw would pierce it. - -The thin part of tongues, if hung up to become dry, grate as hung beef; -and likewise make a fine addition to the flavour of omlets. - - - _Leg of Veal._ - -Let the fillet be cut large or small, as best suits the number of your -company. The bone being taken out, fill the space with a fine stuffing, -and let it be skewered quite round, and send the large side uppermost. -When half roasted, if not before, put a paper over the fat, and observe -to allow a sufficient time, and to put it a good distance from the fire, -the meat being very solid. You may pot some of it. - - - _Knuckle._ - -As few people are fond of boiled veal, it may be well to leave the -knuckle small, and to take off some cutlets or collops, before it be -dressed; but as the knuckle will keep longer than the fillet, it is best -not to cut off the slices till wanted. Break the bones to make it take -less room; and, washing it well, put it into a saucepan with three -onions, a blade of mace or two, and a few peppercorns; cover with water, -and simmer it till thoroughly ready. In the mean time some macaroni -should be boiled with it, if approved; or rice, or a little rice flour, -to give it a small degree of thickness; but do not put too much. Before -it be served, add half a pint of milk and cream, and let it come up with -or without the meat. - -Or, fry the knuckle, with sliced onion and butter, to a good brown, and -have ready peas, lettuce, onion, a cucumber or two, stewed in a small -quantity of water an hour, then add to the veal, and stew till the meat -be tender enough to eat, not to be overdone. Throw in pepper, salt, and -a bit of shred mint, and serve altogether. - - - _Cutlets Maintenon._ - -Cut slices about three quarters of an inch thick; beat them with a -rolling pin, and wet them on both sides with egg: dip them into a -seasoning of bread crumbs, parsley, thyme, knotted marjorum, pepper, -salt, and a little nutmeg grated; then put them in papers folded over, -and broil them; and have ready in a boat, melted butter, with a little -mushroom catsup. - - - _Cutlets another way._ - -Prepare as above, and fry them. Lay them in a dish, and keep them hot. -Dredge a little flour, and put a bit of butter into the pan, brown it; -then pour a little boiling water into it, and boil quick. Season with -pepper, salt, and catsup, and pour over them. - - - _Another way._ - -Prepare as before, and dress the cutlets in a Dutch oven. Pour over them -melted butter and mushrooms. Or, pepper, salt, and broil, especially -neck steaks. They are excellent without herbs. - - - _Collops dressed quick._ - -Cut them as thin as paper, with a very sharp knife, and in small bits. -Throw the skin, and any odd bits of the veal into a little water, with a -dust of pepper and salt: set them on the fire while you beat the -collops, and dip them in a seasoning of herbs, bread, pepper, salt, and -a scrape of nutmeg, having first wetted them in egg; then put a bit of -butter into a frying pan, and give the collops a very quick fry; for as -they are so thin, two minutes will do them on both sides. Put them into -a hot dish before the fire, then strain and thicken the gravy. Give a -boil in the fryingpan, and pour over the collops. A little catsup is an -improvement. - - - _Another way._ - -Fry them in butter, only seasoned with salt and pepper: then simmer them -in gravy, white or brown, with bits of bacon served with them. - -If white, add lemonpeel and mace, and some cream. - - - _Veal Collops._ - -Cut long thin collops: beat them well, and lay on them a bit of thin -bacon the same size; and spread forcemeat on that, seasoned high, with -the addition of a little garlick, and Cayenne. Roll them up tight, about -the size of two fingers, but not more than two or three inches long. Put -a very small skewer to fasten each firm. Rub egg over them, and fry of a -fine brown, and pour over them a rich brown gravy. - - - _Scollops of cold Veal or Chicken._ - -Mince the meat extremely small, and set it over the fire, with a scrape -of nutmeg, a little pepper and salt, and a little cream, for a few -minutes; then put it into the scallopshells, and fill them with crumbs -of bread; over which put some bits of butter, and brown them before the -fire. - -Veal or chicken, as above prepared, served in a dish, and lightly -covered with crumbs of bread fried (or they may be put on in little -heaps), look and eat well. - - - _Scotch Collops._ - -Cut veal in thin bits, about three inches over, and rather round: beat -with a rolling pin: grate a little nutmeg over them: dip in the yelk of -an egg, and fry them in a little butter, of a fine brown: pour it from -them; and have ready warm, to pour upon them, half a pint of gravy, a -little bit of butter rubbed into a little flour, to which put a yelk of -an egg, two large spoonfuls of cream, and a bit of salt. Do not boil the -sauce, but stir it until of a fine thickness to serve with the collops. - - - _Kidney._ - -Chop veal kidney, and some of the fat, likewise a little leek or onion, -pepper, salt. Roll it up with an egg into balls, and fry them. - -Cold fillet makes the finest potted veal; or you may do it as follows: - -Season a large slice of the fillet before dressed, with some mace, -peppercorns, and two or three cloves, and lay it close into a potting -pan that will but just hold it, and fill it up with water, and bake it -three hours. Then pound it quite small in a mortar, and add salt to -taste. Put a little gravy, that was baked, to it in pounding, if to be -eaten soon; otherwise only a little butter just melted. - -When done, cover it over with butter. - - - _To pot Veal or Chicken with Ham._ - -Pound some cold veal or white of chicken, seasoned as above, and put -layers of it with layers of pounded ham, or rather shred: press each -down, and cover over with butter. - - - _Neck of Veal._ - -Cut off the scrag to boil, and cover it with onion sauce. It should be -boiled in milk and water. Parsley and butter may be served with it, -instead of the former sauce; or it may be stewed with whole rice, small -onions, and peppercorns, with a very little water; or boiled and eaten -with bacon and greens. - -Best end, roasted, broiled as steaks, or made into pies. - - - _Breast of Veal._ - -Before roasted, if large, the two ends may be taken off and fried to -stew, or the whole may be roasted. Butter should be poured over it. - -If any be left, cut the pieces in handsome sizes, and putting them into -a stewpan, pour some broth over it; or if you have none, a little water -will do. Add a bunch of herbs, a blade or two of mace, some pepper, and -an anchovy. Stew till the meat is tender: thicken with butter and flour, -and add a little catsup; or the whole breast may be stewed, after -cutting off the two ends. - -The sweetbread is to be served up whole in the middle; and if you have a -few mushrooms, truffles, and morels, stew them with it, and serve. - -Boiled breast of veal, smothered with onion sauce, is an excellent dish, -if not old, or too fat. - - - _Rolled Breast of Veal._ - -Bone it, and take off the thick skin and gristle, and beat the meat with -a rolling pin. Season with herbs chopped very fine, mixed with salt, -pepper, and mace. Lay some thick slices of fine ham, or roll into it two -or three calves’ tongues of a fine red, and boiled first an hour or two -and skinned. Bind it up tight in a cloth, and tape it. Set it over the -fire to simmer in a small quantity of water until it be quite tender. -Some hours will be necessary. - -Lay it on the dresser with a board and weight on it till quite cold. - -Pigs’ or calves’ feet, boiled and taken from the bones, may be put in or -round it. The different colours, laid in layers, look well when cut; and -yelks of eggs boiled may be put in, with beet root, grated ham, and -chopped parsley. - - - _Shoulder of Veal._ - -Cut off the knuckle of the shoulder, for a stew or gravy. Roast the -other part, with stuffing. You may lard it. Serve with melted butter. - -Blade bone, with a good devil of meat left on, eats extremely well with -mushroom or oyster sauce; or mushroom catsup in butter. - - - _Different ways of dressing Calf’s head._ - - TO BOIL. - -Clean it very nicely, and soak it in water, that it may look very white. -Take out the tongue to salt, and the brains to make a little dish. Boil -the head extremely tender; then strew it over with crumbs and chopped -parsley, and brown them; or, if preferred, leave one side plain. - -Bacon and greens are to be served to eat with it. - -The brains must be boiled, and then mixed with melted butter, chopped -scalded sage, pepper, and salt. - -If any be left of the head, it may be hashed next day, and a few slices -of bacon just warmed and put round. - -Cold calf’s head eats well. - - - _Hashed Calf’s Head._ - -When half boiled, cut off the meat in slices, half an inch thick, and -two or three inches long. Brown some butter, flour, and sliced onion, -and throw in the slices with some good gravy, truffles, and morels. Give -it one boil, skim it well, and set it in a moderate heat to simmer till -very tender. - -Season with pepper, salt, and Cayenne, at first; and ten minutes before -serving, throw in some shred parsley, and a very small bit of tarragon, -and knotted marjorum, cut as fine as possible. Just before you serve, -add the squeeze of a lemon. Forcemeat balls and bits of bacon rolled -round. - - - _Mock Turtle._ - -Bespeak a calf’s head with the skin on: cut in half, and clean it well; -then half boil it. Have all the meat taken off in square bits, and break -the bones of the head: boil them in some veal and beef broth, to add to -the richness. Fry some shalot in butter: dredge in flour sufficient to -thicken the gravy, which stir into the browning, and give it one or two -boils: skim carefully, then put in the head. Put in a pint of Madeira -wine, and simmer till the meat be quite tender. About ten minutes before -you serve, put in some basil, tarragon, chives, parsley, Cayenne pepper, -and salt to your taste; and two spoonfuls of mushroom catsup, and one of -soy. Squeeze the juice of a lemon into the tureen, and pour the soup -upon it. Forcemeat balls, and small eggs. - - - _A cheaper way._ - -Prepare half a calf’s head, without the skin, as above. When the meat is -cut off, break the bones, and put into a saucepan, with some gravy made -of beef and veal bones, and seasoned with fried onions, herbs, mace, and -pepper. Have ready two or three ox palates, boiled so tender as to -blanch, and cut in small pieces; to which a cowheel, likewise cut in -pieces, is a great improvement. Brown some butter, flour, and onion, and -pour the gravy to it; then add the meats as above, and stew. Half a pint -of sherry wine, an anchovy, two spoonfuls of walnut catsup, the same of -mushroom, some chopped herbs as before. Balls, &c. - - - _Forcemeat as for Turtle, at the Bush, Bristol._ - -A pound of fine fresh suet, one ounce of ready dressed veal or chicken, -chopped fine, crumbs of bread, a little shalot or onion, salt, white -pepper, nutmeg, mace, pennyroyal, parsley, and lemon; thyme finely -shred: beat as many fresh eggs, yelks and whites separately, as will -make the above ingredients into a moist paste: roll into small balls, -and boil them in fresh lard, putting them in just as it boils up. When -of a light brown, take them out, and drain them before the fire. If the -suet be moist or stale, a great many more eggs will be necessary. - -Balls made this way are remarkably light; but being greasy, some people -prefer them with less suet and eggs. - - - _Another Forcemeat, for Balls or Patties._ - -Pound cold veal or chicken: take out the strings: add some fat bacon; -and, if you like, the least portion of scraped ham: herbs, as for the -preceding: pepper, salt, a little nutmeg, crumbs of bread, a little -onion, and two eggs. - -_Note._ When forcemeat is to be eaten cold, as in pies, bacon is far -better than suet, and the taste is always higher. - - - _Another Mock Turtle._ - -Put into a pan a knuckle of veal, two fine cowheels, two onions, a few -cloves, peppers, Jamaica peppers, mace, and sweet herbs: cover with -water, and then, tying a thick paper over the pan, set it in an oven for -three hours. When cold, take off the fat very nicely: cut the meat and -feet into bits an inch and half square: remove the bones and coarser -parts; then put the other on to warm, with walnut and mushroom catsup, a -large spoonful of each, half a pint of sherry or Madeira wine, a little -mushroom powder, and the jelly of the meat. When hot, if it want any -more seasoning, add it, and serve with hard eggs, forcemeat balls, a -juice of lemon, and a spoonful of soy. - -This is a very easy process, and the dish is excellent. - - - _Another Ditto._ - -Stew a pound and a half of scrag of mutton, with three pints of water to -a quart; then set the broth on, with a calf’s foot and a cowheel: cover -the stewpan tight, and simmer till you can cut off the meat from the -bones in proper bits. Set it on again, with the broth, a quarter of a -pint of Madeira or sherry wine, a large onion, half a teaspoonful of -Cayenne pepper, a bit of lemonpeel, two anchovies, some sweet herbs, and -eighteen oysters cut in pieces, and then chopped fine, a teaspoonful of -salt, a little nutmeg, and the liquor of the oysters: cover tight, and -simmer three quarters of an hour. Serve with forcemeat balls, and hard -eggs in the tureen. - -_Note._ Cowheels, with veal or head, are a great improvement; and if not -too much boiled, have a very fine flavour stewed for turtle; and are -more solid than the calf’s feet. - - - _Calf’s Head Pie._ - -Stew a knuckle of veal till fit for eating, with two onions, a few -isinglass shavings, a bunch of herbs, 2 blade of mace, and a few -peppercorns, in two quarts or less of water. Keep the broth for the pie. -Take off a bit of the meat for the balls, and let the other be eaten; -but simmer the bones in the broth till it is very good. Half boil the -head, and cut it in square bits: put a layer of ham at the bottom, then -some head, first fat then lean, with balls and hard eggs cut in half, -and so on till the dish be full; but be particularly careful not to -place the pieces close, or the pie will be too solid, and there will be -no space for the jelly. The meat must be first pretty well seasoned with -pepper and salt, and a scrape or two of nutmeg. Put a little water and a -little gravy into the dish, and cover it with a tolerably thick crust: -bake it in a slow oven; and when done, pour into it as much gravy as it -can possibly hold, and do not cut it till perfectly cold: in doing -which, observe to use a very sharp knife, and first cut out a large bit, -going down to the bottom of the dish; and when done thus, the different -colours, and the clear jelly, have a beautiful marbled appearance. - -A small pie may be made to eat hot; which, with high seasoning, oysters, -mushrooms, truffles, morels, &c. has a very good appearance. - -The cold pie will keep some days. Slices make a pretty side dish. - -The pickled tongues of former calves’ heads may be cut in, to vary the -colour, instead of, or besides ham. - - - _Calf’s Head Fricasseed._ - -Clean, and half boil half a head. Cut the meat in small bits, and put -into a tosser, with a little gravy made of the bones, and some of the -water it was boiled in, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, and a blade of -mace. If you have a sweetbread, or young cockerels in the house, use the -cockscombs; having first boiled them tender and blanched. Season the -gravy with a little pepper, nutmeg, and salt: rub down some flour and -butter, and give all a boil together; then remove the herbs and onion, -and add a little cup of cream, but do not boil it in. Serve with small -bits of bacon rolled round, and balls. - - - _Veal Patties._ - -Mince some veal, that is not quite done, with a little parsley, -lemonpeel, a scrape of nutmeg, and a little salt: add a little cream and -gravy just to moisten the meat; and if you have any ham, scrape a little -bit and add to it. Do not warm it till the patties are baked; and -observe to put a bit of bread into each, to prevent the paste from -rising into cake. - - - _Fricandeau._ - -Cut a large piece out of the prime part of a leg of veal, about nine -inches long, and half as broad and thick: beat it with a rolling pin; -then lard it very thickly on one side and the edges. Put it in a small -stewpan, with three pints of water, a pound of veal cut in small bits, -and four or five ounces of lean ham, and an onion: simmer till the meat -be tender; then take it out; cover to keep it moist, and boil the gravy -till it be a fine brown, and much reduced: then put the larded meat back -into the gravy, and pour a little of it over with a spoon. When quite -hot, serve the meat and gravy round in the dish, with the following -sauce in a boat. - - - _Sorrel Sauce._ - -Wash a quantity of sorrel, and boil it tender in the smallest quantity -of water you can: strain and chop it: stew it with a little butter, -pepper, and salt; and if you like it high, add a spoonful of gravy. - -Be careful to do it in a very well tinned saucepan; or if you have a -silver one, or a silver mug, it is far better; as the sorrel is very -sour, especially in spring. - - - _Veal Olives._ - -Cut long thin collops: beat them, and lay on them thin slices of fat -bacon, and over a layer of forcemeat seasoned high, with the addition of -shred shalot, and Cayenne. Roll them tight, about the size of two -fingers, but not more than two or three inches long: fasten them round -with a small skewer: rub egg over, and fry them of a light brown. - -Serve with brown gravy. - - - _Calf’s Liver._ - -Sliced: seasoned with pepper and salt, and nicely broiled. Rub a bit of -cold butter on it, and serve hot and hot. - - - _Roasted._ - -Wash and wipe it: then cut a long hole in it, and stuff it with crumbs -of bread, chopped anchovy, herbs, a good deal of fat bacon, onion, salt, -pepper, a bit of butter, and an egg. Sew the liver up; then lard or wrap -it in a veal caul, and roast it. - -Serve with a good brown gravy, and currant jelly. - - - _Sweetbreads._ - -Half boil, and stew in a white gravy. Add cream, flour, butter, nutmeg, -salt, and white pepper: or, in brown, seasoned: or, after parboiling, -cover with crumbs, herbs, and seasoning, and brown in a Dutch oven. -Serve with butter, and mushroom catsup, or gravy. - - - _Sweetbread Ragout._ - -Cut them about the size of a walnut: wash and dry them; then fry of a -fine brown. Pour to them a good gravy, seasoned with salt, pepper, -allspice, mushrooms, or the catsup. Strain, and thicken with butter, and -a little flour. You may add truffles, and morels, and the mushrooms. - - - _Veal Sausages._ - -Chop equal quantities of lean veal and fat bacon, a handful of sage, a -little salt, pepper, and a few anchovies. Beat all in a mortar; and, -when used, roll and fry it, and serve with fried sippets. - -Spadbury’s veal and pork sausages, under the article of pork. - - - _To make excellent meat of a Hog’s Head._ - -Split the head, take out the brains, cut off the ears, and sprinkle it -with common salt for a day; then drain. Salt it well with common salt -and saltpetre three days; then lay salt and head into water (a small -quantity) for two days. Wash it, and boil it till all the bones will -come out: remove them, and chop the head as quick as possible; having -skinned the tongue, and taken the skin carefully off the head, to put -under and over. Season with pepper, salt, a little mace or Jamaicas. Put -the skin into a small pan: press the cut head in, and put the other skin -over: press it down. When cold, it will turn out and make a kind of -brawn. If too fat, you may put a few bits of lean pork to go through the -same process. Add salt and vinegar, and boil with some of the liquor for -a pickle to keep it. - - - _To scald a Sucking Pig._ - -The moment the pig is killed, put it into cold water for a few minutes; -then rub it over with a little rosin, beaten extremely small, and put it -into a pail of scalding water half a minute; take it out, lay it on a -table, and pull off the hair as quickly as possible. If any part does -not come off, put it in again. When perfectly clean, wash it well with -warm water, then in two or three cold waters, lest any flavour of the -rosin should remain. Take off the four feet at the first joint: make a -slit down the belly, and take out the entrails: put the liver, heart, -and lights to the feet; wash the pig well in cold water, dry it -thoroughly, and fold it in a wet cloth to keep it from the air. - - - _To roast a sucking Pig._ - -If you can get it when just killed, it is of great advantage. Let it be -scalded, which those who sell usually do. Then put some sage, crumbs of -bread, salt, and pepper in the belly, and sew it up. Observe to skewer -the legs back, or the under part will not crisp. - -Lay it to a brisk fire till thoroughly dry; then have ready some butter, -in a dry cloth, and rub the pig with it in every part. Dredge as much -flour over as will possibly lie, and touch it no more till ready to -serve; then scrape off the flour, with the greatest care, with a blunt -knife: rub it well with the buttered cloth: take off the head while yet -at the fire, and take out the brains, and mix them with the gravy that -comes from the pig. Then take it up, and, without withdrawing the spit, -cut it down the back and belly: lay it in the dish, and chop the sage -and bread quickly, as fine as you can, and mix with a large quantity of -fine melted butter, which has very little flour. Put the sauce into the -dish after the pig has been split down the back, and garnished with the -two ears, and the two _jaws_; the upper part of the head being taken off -down to the snout. - -In Devon, it is served whole if very small; the head only being cut off. - - - _Pettitoes._ - -Boil them, and the liver and heart, in a small quantity of water very -gently; then cut the meat fine, and simmer it with a little of the water -and the feet split, till the latter be quite tender. Thicken with a bit -of butter, a little flour, a spoonful of cream, a little salt, and -pepper: give a boil up, and pour over a few sippets of bread, and put -the feet on the mince. - - - _Porker’s Head roasted._ - -Choose a fine young head, clean it well, and put bread and sage as for -pig: sew it up tight, and put it on a string or hanging jack. Roast it -as a pig, and serve with the same sauce. - - - _Pig’s Cheek for boiling._ - -Cut off the snout, and clean the head: divide it, take out the eyes and -the brains, and sprinkling the head with salt, let it drain twenty four -hours. Salt it with common salt and saltpetre. Let it lie eight or ten -days, if to be dressed without stewing with peas; but less, if to be -dressed with peas; and it must be washed first, and then simmered till -all is tender. - - - _Collared Head._ - -Scour the head and ears nicely: take off the hair and snout, and take -out the eyes and the brain: lay it in water one night; then drain and -salt it extremely well with common salt and saltpetre, and let it lie -five days. Boil it enough to remove the bones, then lay it on a dresser, -turning the thick end of one side of the head towards the thin end of -the other, to make the roll of equal size, sprinkle it well with salt -and white pepper, and roll it with the ears; and if you approve, put the -pig’s feet round the outside when boned; or the thin parts of two -cowheels. Bind it in a cloth and with a broad tape, and boil it till -quite tender; then put a good weight upon it, and do not remove the -covering till cold. - -If you choose it to be more like brawn, salt it longer, and let the -proportion of saltpetre be greater, putting in some pieces of lean pork, -and then cover it with cowheel, to look like the horn. - -This may be kept in or out of pickle of salt, and water boiled, with -vinegar; and is a very convenient thing to have in the house. - -If likely to spoil, slice and fry it with or without butter. - - - _To roast a Leg of Pork._ - -Choose a small leg of fine young pork, cut a slit in the knuckle with a -sharp knife, and fill the space with sage and onion, chopped, and a -little pepper and salt. When half done, score the skin in slices, but do -not cut deeper than the outer rind. - -Apple sauce and potatoes should be served to eat with it. - - - _To boil a Leg of Pork_ - -Salt it eight or ten days; when to be dressed, weigh it; let it lie half -an hour in cold water to make it white; allow a quarter of an hour for -every pound, and half an hour over from the time it boils up; skim it as -soon as it boils, and frequently after. Allow water enough. Save some of -it to make pease soup. Some boil in a very nice cloth, floured, which -gives a very delicate look. - -Serve pease pudding and turnips. - - - _Different ways of dressing Pig’s Feet and Ears._ - -Clean them carefully, and soak them some hours: boil them tender, then -take them out; and with some of the water boil some vinegar and a little -salt, and when cold put over them. When to be dressed, dry them, divide -the feet in two, and slice the ears; fry and serve them with butter, -mustard, and vinegar. They may be done in butter or only floured. - - - _Feet and Ears Fricasseed._ - -Put no vinegar in the pickle, if to be dressed with cream. Cut the feet -and ears into neat bits, and boil them in a little milk; then pour that -from them, and simmer in a little veal broth, with a bit of onion, mace -and lemonpeel. Before you serve, add a little cream, flour, butter, and -salt. - - - _Jelly of Feet and Ears._ - -Clean and prepare as in the foregoing receipt; then boil in a very small -quantity of water until every bone can be taken out; throw in half a -handful of chopped sage, the same of parsley, a seasoning of pepper, -salt, and mace, in fine powder; simmer till the herbs are scalded, then -pour the whole into a melon form. - - - _Pork Steaks._ - -Cut them from a loin or neck, of middling thickness: pepper and broil -them, turning often. When nearly done, put the salt necessary, rub a bit -of butter over, and serve the moment they are taken off the fire; a few -at a time. - - - _To cure Hams. First way._ - -Hang them a day or two; then sprinkle with a little salt, and drain them -another day. Pound an ounce and a half of saltpetre, ditto petresalt, -half an ounce of sal prunel, and a pound of the coarsest sugar: mix -these well, and rub into each ham every day for four days, and turn it. -If a small one, turn it every day for three weeks: if a large one, a -week longer; but do not rub after four days. Before you dry it, drain -and cover with bran. Smoke it ten days. - - - _Another way. Second way._ - -Choose a leg of a hog that is fat and well fed: hang as above. To it, if -large, put, in fine powder, one pound of bay salt, four ounces -saltpetre, one pound of the coarsest sugar, and one handful of common -salt, and rub it thoroughly. Lay the rind downwards, and cover the -fleshy part with the salts. Baste it as often as you can with the -pickle; the more the better. Keep it four weeks in the pickle, turning -it daily. Drain and throw bran over it; then hang it in a chimney where -wood is burnt, and turn it sometimes for ten days. - - - _Another way. Third way._ - -Hang the ham and sprinkle with salt as above, then rub it daily with the -following in fine powder: half a pound of salt, ditto bay salt, two -ounces of saltpetre, and two ounces of black pepper, mixed with a pound -and a half of treacle. Turn it twice a day in the pickle, for three -weeks. Lay it in a pail of water for one night, wipe it quite dry, and -smoke it two or three weeks. - - - _Another way, that gives a high flavour. Fourth way._ - -When the weather will permit, hang the ham three days: mix an ounce of -saltpetre with one quarter of a pound of bay salt, ditto common salt, -ditto of coarsest sugar, and a quart of strong beer; boil them together, -and pour over immediately on the ham; turn it twice a day in the pickle -for three weeks. An ounce of black pepper, ditto of pimento, in finest -powder, added to the above, will give still more flavour. Cover with -bran when wiped, and smoke from three to four weeks, as you approve; the -latter will make it harder, and more of the flavour of Wesphalia. Sew -hams in hessings, i.e. coarse wrapper, if to be smoked where there is -strong fire. - - - _A method of giving a still higher flavour._ - -Sprinkle the ham with salt after it has hung two or three days: let -drain; make a pickle of a quart of strong beer, half a pound of treacle, -an ounce of coriander seeds, two ounces of juniper berries, an ounce of -pepper, ditto pimento, an ounce of saltpetre, half an ounce of sal -prunel, a handful of common salt, and a head of shalot, all pounded or -cut fine. Boil these together a few minutes, and pour over the ham: this -quantity for one of ten pounds. Rub and turn it every day, for a -fortnight; then sew it up in a thin linen bag, and smoke it three weeks. -Observe to drain it from the pickle, and rub it in bran previous to -drying. - - - _Hogs’ Cheeks to dry._ - -The snout being cut off, the brains removed, and the head cleft, but not -cut apart on the upper side, rub it well with salt. Next day remove the -brine, and salt it again; the following day cover the head with half an -ounce of saltpetre, two ounces of bay salt, a little common, and four -ounces of coarsest sugar. Let the head be often turned. In twelve days -smoke for a week like bacon. - - - _To dress Hams._ - -If long hung, put the ham into water a night, and either dig a hole in -the earth, or let it lie on damp stones, sprinkled with water to mellow, -two or three days, covering it with a heavy tub, to keep vermin from it. -Wash it well, and put it into a boiler with plenty of water. Let it -simmer four, five, or six hours, according to the size. When -sufficiently done, if before the time of serving, cover it with a clean -cloth doubled, and keep the dish hot over boiling water. Remove the -skin, and strew raspings over the ham. Garnish with carrot. Preserve the -skin as whole as possible, to keep over the ham when cold, which will -prevent its drying. - - - _The manner of curing Wiltshire Bacon._ - -Sprinkle each flitch with salt, and let the blood drain off for twenty -four hours; then mix one pound and a half of coarse sugar, ditto of bay -salt, not quite so much as half a pound of saltpetre, and a pound of -common salt, and rub it well on the bacon, turning it every day for a -month; then hang it to dry, and afterwards smoke it ten days. The above -salts are for the whole hog. - - - _To pickle Pork._ - -The quantities proportioned to the middlings of a pretty large hog; the -hams and shoulders being cut off. - -Mix and pound fine four ounces of saltpetre, one pound of coarse sugar, -one ounce of sal prunel, and a little common salt. Having sprinkled the -pork with salt, and drained it twenty four hours, rub it with the above, -and then pack the pieces light in a small deep tub, filling up the -spaces with common salt. Place large pebbles on the pork, to prevent its -swimming in the pickle which the salt will produce. - - - _Sausages._ - -Chop fat and lean of pork: season with sage, pepper, and salt; and you -may add two or three pimentos. _Half fill_ hog’s guts, that have been -soaked and made extremely clean: or the meat may be kept in a very small -pan, closely covered; and so rolled and dusted with a very little flour -before they are fried. - - - _An excellent Sausage to eat cold._ - -Season fat and lean pork with some salt, saltpetre, black and Jamaica -pepper, all in finest powder, and well rubbed into the meat. The sixth -day cut it small, and mix with it some shred shalot, or garlick, as fine -as possible. Have ready an ox gut that has been scoured, salted, and -soaked well, and fill it with the above stuffing: tie up the ends, and -hang it to smoke as you would hams; but first wrap it in a fold or two -of old muslin. It must be high dried. Some eat it without boiling, -others like it boiled first. The skin should be tied in different -places, making each link about eight or nine inches long. - - - _Spadbury’s Oxford Sausages._ - -Chop a pound and a half of pork, and the same of veal, cleared of skins -and sinews. Add three quarters of a pound of beef suet, mince and mix -them. Steep the crumbs of a penny loaf in water, and with a little dried -sage, pepper, and salt, mix with the meat. - - - _Black Puddings._ - -The blood must be stirred with salt till cold. Put a quart of it, or -rather more, to a quart of old grits, to soak one night; and soak the -crumbs of a quartern loaf in rather more than two quarts of new milk, -made hot. In the mean time prepare the guts, by washing and scraping -with salt and water, and changing the water several times. Chop fine a -little winter savory and thyme, a great deal of pennyroyal, pepper, -salt, a few cloves, allspice, ginger, and nutmeg. Mix these with three -pounds of beefsuet, and six eggs well beaten and strained, and then beat -the bread, grits, &c. all up with the seasoning. When well mixed, have -ready some hogs fat cut in large bits, and as you fill the skins put it -in at proper distances. Tie them in links, having only half filled them, -and boil them in a large kettle, pricking them as they swell, or they -will burst. When boiled, lay them between clean cloths till cold, and -hang them up in the kitchen. When to be used, scald them a few minutes -in water, wipe and put them in a Dutch oven. - -If there are not sufficient skins, put the stuffing in basons, and boil, -covered with floured cloths; and slice and fry it when used. - - - _Black Puddings another way._ - -Soak a quart of bruised grits in two quarts of hot milk, or less, if -sufficient to swell them. Chop a good quantity of pennyroyal, some -savory and thyme; salt, pepper, and Jamaica pepper, finely powdered. Mix -the above with a quart of the blood, prepared as before: then half fill -the skins, after they have been cleaned most thoroughly, and put as much -of the leaf, i. e. fat of the pig, as shall make it pretty rich. Boil as -before directed. - - - _White Hogs’ Puddings._ - -When the skins have been soaked and cleaned as before directed, rinse -and soak them all night in rosewater, and put into them the following -filling; mix half a pound of blanched almonds, cut in seven or eight -bits, with one pound of grated bread, two pounds of marrow or suet, one -pound of currents, some beaten cinnamon, cloves, mace, and nutmeg, a -quart of cream, yelks of six, and whites of two eggs, a little orange -flour water, a little fine Lisbon sugar, some lemon peel, and citron -sliced, and half fill the skins. Boil as before directed. - - - _Hogs’ Lard._ - -Should be carefully melted in a jar, put into a kettle of water, and -boiled and run into bladders that have been extremely well cleaned. The -smaller they are, the better the lard keeps; as after the air reaches -it, it becomes rank. Put in a sprig of rosemary when melted. - -This being a most useful article for frying fish, it should be prepared -with care. Mixed with butter it makes fine crust. - - - _Pig’s Harslet._ - -Wash and dry some liver, sweetbreads, and fat and lean bits of pork; -beating the latter with a rolling pin to make it tender. Season with -pepper, salt, sage, and a little onion, shred fine. Put all when mixed -into a cawl, and fasten it up tight with a needle and thread. Roast it -on a hanging jack, or by a string. Or serve in slices with parsley for a -fry. - -Serve with a sauce of port and water, and mustard just boiled up, and -put into the dish. - - - _Loins and Necks of Pork, roast._ - -Shoulders and breasts put into pickle, or salt the former as a leg. - - - _Rolled Neck._ - -Bone it. Put a forcemeat of chopped sage, a very few crumbs of bread, -salt, pepper, and two or three pimentos over the inside: then roll the -meat as tight as you can, and roast it slowly, and at a good distance at -first. - - _To make a Pickle for Hams, Tongues, or Beef, if boiled and skimmed - between each parcel of them, that will keep for years._ - -To two gallons of spring water put two pounds of coarse sugar, two -pounds of bay, and two and a half pounds of common salt, and half a -pound of saltpetre, in a deep earthen glazed pan, that will hold four -gallons, and has a cover that will fit close. Keep the beef or hams as -long as they will bear, before you put them into the pickle, and -sprinkle them with coarse sugar in a pan, from which they must drain. -Rub the hams, &c. well with the pickle, and pack them in close, putting -as much as the pan will hold, so that the pickle may cover them. The -pickle is not to be boiled at first. A small ham may lie fourteen days, -a large one three weeks; a tongue twelve days; beef in proportion to its -size. They will eat well out of the pickle without drying. When to be -dried, let each piece be drained over the pan, and when it will drop no -longer, take a clean sponge and dry it thoroughly. Six or eight hours -will smoke them; and there should be only a little sawdust and wet straw -burnt to smoke them; but if put into a baker’s chimney, sew them in -coarse cloth, and hang them a week. - - - _Excellent Bacon._ - -When the hog is divided, if a large one, the chine should be cut out. -The bacon will be preserved from being rusty, if the spareribs are left -in. Salt the bacon six days; then drain it from the first pickle. Mix as -much salt as you judge proper with eight ounces of bay salt, four ounces -of saltpetre, and one pound of coarse sugar, to each hog, the hams being -first cut off. Rub the salts well in, and turn it every day for a month. -Drain, and smoke a few days; or dry without, by hanging in the kitchen, -not near the fire. - -MUTTON. _The Haunch._ - -Keep as long as it can be preserved sweet, by the different modes of -keeping. Let it be washed with warm milk and water, or vinegar, if -necessary; but soak off the flavour from keeping. Put a coarse paste on -strong paper, and fold the haunch in: set it at a great distance from -the fire, and allow proportionable time for the paste, which do not -remove till about thirty five or forty minutes before serving; then -baste it perpetually. You will have brought the haunch nearer to the -fire before you take off the paste, and must froth it up as you would -venison. - -A gravy must be made of a pound and a half of loin of old mutton, -simmered in a pint of water to half, and no seasoning but salt. Brown it -with a little burnt sugar, and send it up in the dish: but there should -be much gravy in the meat; for though long at the fire, the distance and -covering will prevent its being done dry. - -Serve with currantjelly sauce. - -Legs roasted, and onion or currantjelly sauce: or, boiled, with caper -sauce and vegetables. - -Necks are particularly useful, as so many dishes may be made of them; -but they are not advantageous for the family. The bones should be cut -short; which the butchers will not do unless particularly desired. - -_Note._ When there is more fat to a neck or loin of mutton than is -agreeable to eat with the lean, it makes an uncommonly good suet -pudding, or crust for a meatpie, being cut very fine. - -The best end of the neck boiled, and served with turnips: or roasted: or -in steaks, in pies, or harrico. - -The scrag stewed in broth, or with a small quantity of water, some small -onions, a few peppercorns and a little rice, and served together. - - - _Harrico._ - -Take off some of the fat, and cut the middle or best end of the neck -into rather thin steaks. Put the fat into a fryingpan, and, flouring, -fry them in it of a fine light brown, but not enough for eating. Put -them in a dish while you fry the carrots, turnips, and onions; the -former in dice, the latter sliced; but they must only be warmed, not -browned, or you need not fry them. Then lay the steaks at the bottom of -a stewpan, the vegetables over, and pour as much boiling water on them -as will just cover: give one boil, skim well, and then set the pan on -the side of the fire to simmer gently till tender: in three or four -hours skim, and add pepper, salt, and one spoonful of catsup. - - - _Mutton Pie._ - -Cut steaks from a loin or neck of mutton: beat them and remove some of -the fat. Season with salt, pepper, and a little onion. Put a little -water at the bottom of the dish, and a little paste on the edge; then -cover with a moderately thick paste. Or raise small pies, and, breaking -each bone in two to shorten it, season and cover it over, pinching the -edge. When they come out, pour a spoonful of gravy, made of a bit of -mutton, into each. The mutton should have hung. - - - _Mutton and Potatoe Pie._ - -Season the steaks of a loin or neck; lay them in a dish: have ready -potatoes mashed very thick, with some milk, and a bit of butter and -salt, and cover the meat as with a very thick crust, and to come on the -surrounding edge. - - - _Mutton Pudding._ - -Season as above. Lay one layer of steaks at the bottom of the dish, and -pour a batter of potatoes boiled and pressed through a colander, and -mixed with milk and an egg, over them: then putting the rest of the -steaks, and batter, bake it. - -Batter with flour, instead of potatoes, eats well, but requires more -egg, and is not so good. - - - _Mutton Sausages._ - -Take a pound of the rawest part of a leg of mutton that has been either -roasted or boiled: chop it extremely small: season with pepper, salt, -mace, and nutmeg. Add six ounces of beef suet, some sweet herbs, two -anchovies, and a pint of oysters, all chopped very small; a quarter of a -pound of grated bread, some of the anchovy liquor, and all that came -from the oysters; the yelks and whites of two eggs well beaten. Put it -all, when well mixed, into a little pot, and use it by rolling it into -balls or sausage shape, and fry them. If approved, a _little_ shalot may -be added; or garlick, which is a great improvement. - - - _Mutton Steaks_ - -Should be cut from a loin or neck that has hung. If the latter, the -bones should not be long. They should be broiled on a clear fire, and -seasoned when half done, and frequently turned; when, taking into a very -hot dish, rub a bit of butter on each, and serve hot and hot the moment -they are done. - -They may be covered with forcemeat. - - - _Mutton Collops._ - -Cut from that part of a well hung loin of mutton which is next the leg, -some collops very thin. Take out the sinews. Season them with salt, -pepper and mace, and strew over them shred parsley, thyme, and two or -three shalots. Fry them in butter till half done. Add half a pint of -gravy, a little juice of lemon, and a piece of butter rubbed in flour, -and simmer the whole very gently five minutes. They should be served -immediately, or they will be hard. - - - _Lamb Steaks._ - -Fry a beautiful brown. Throw over them, when served, a good quantity of -crumbs of bread fried, and crimped parsley: the receipt for doing which -of a fine colour, is given under the article of vegetables. - -Mutton and Lamb steaks, seasoned and broiled in buttered papers, either -with crumbs and herbs, or without, are a genteel dish, and eat well. - -Sauce for them, called sauce Robart, under the list of sauces. - -Saddle or Loin of mutton, roasted: the former a fashionable dish. - -Shoulder of mutton, roasted, and onion sauce. Bladebone broiled. - - - _Shoulder of Mutton boiled with Oysters._ - -Hang it some days, then salt it well for two. Bone it, and sprinkle it -with pepper, and a bit of mace pounded. Lay some oysters over it, and -roll the meat up tight with a fillet. Stew it in a small quantity of -water, with an onion, and a few peppercorns, till quite tender. - -Have ready a little good gravy, and some oysters stewed in it: thicken -with flour and butter, and pour over the mutton when the tape is -removed. The stewpan should be kept close covered. - - - _Breast of Mutton._ - -The superfluous fat being cut off, roast, and serve with stewed -cucumbers: or, to eat cold, having covered it with chopped parsley: or -half boiled, and then grilled before the fire, being covered with crumbs -and herbs, and served with caper sauce: or boned, a good deal of the fat -being taken off, and covered with bread, herbs, and seasoning; then -rolled, and boiled, and served with chopped walnut, or capers and -butter. - - - _Rolled Loin of Mutton._ - -Hang the mutton, to be tender. Bone it, and lay a seasoning of pepper, -pimento, mace, nutmeg, a few cloves, all in fine powder, over it. Next -day prepare a stuffing as for a hare, beat the meat, and cover it with -the stuffing, roll it tight, and fillet it. Half bake it in a slow oven: -let it grow cold: remove the fat, and put the gravy into a stewpan: -flour the meat, and put in likewise; stew till near ready, and add a -glass of port wine, some catsup, an anchovy, and a little lemon pickle, -half an hour before serving, which do in the gravy, and with jelly -sauce. A few fresh mushrooms are a great improvement, but not if to eat -like hare, nor add the lemon pickle. - -Rumps, kidneys, livers, and hearts, well washed, seasoned, and broiled, -and served with cold butter rubbed on them. - - - _Steaks of Mutton, or Lamb and Cucumbers._ - -Quarter cucumbers, and lay them in a deep dish; sprinkle them with salt, -and pour vinegar over. Fry chops of a fine brown, and put them in a -stewpan: drain the cucumbers, and put over the steaks: put some sliced -onions, pepper, and salt: pour hot water or weak broth on them: stew and -skim well. - - - _An excellent Hotch Potch._ - -Stew pease, lettuce, and onions, in a very little water, with a beef or -ham bone. While doing, fry some mutton or lamb steaks, seasoned, of a -nice brown. Three quarters of an hour before dinner put the steaks into -a stewpan, and the vegetables over: stew them, and serve all together in -a tureen. - - - _Another Hotch Potch._ - -Knuckle of veal, and scrag of mutton, stewed with vegetables as above. - - - _Mutton Ham._ - -Choose a fine grained leg of wether mutton, of twelve or fourteen pounds -weight. Let it be cut ham shape, and hang two days: then put into a -stewpan half a pound of bay salt, the same of common salt, two ounces of -saltpetre, half a pound of coarsest sugar, all in powder: mix and make -it quite hot; then rub it well into the ham, let it be turned in the -liquor daily. At the end of four days put two ounces more of common -salt: in twelve days take it out; dry, and hang it up in the wood smoke -a week. - - - _Mutton Cutlets in the Portuguese way._ - -Cut the chops, and half fry them, with sliced shalot or onion, chopped -parsley, and two bayleaves; seasoned with pepper and salt. Then lay a -forcemeat on a piece of white paper, put the chop on it, cover with -forcemeat, and twist the paper up, leaving a hole for the end of the -bones to go through. Broil on a gentle fire. Serve with sauce Robart; -or, as the seasoning makes the cutlets high, a little gravy. - - - _Lamb._ - -Leg boiled in a cloth to look as white as possible: the loin fried in -steaks and served round, garnished with dried or fried parsley. Spinach -to eat with it. Or dressed separately, or roasted. - - - _Lamb’s Head and Hinge._ - -That of a house lamb is best, but either, if soaked in cold water, will -be white. Boil the head separately till very tender, and have ready the -liver and lights cut small. After being three parts boiled, stew them in -a little of the water in which they were boiled. Season, and thicken -with flour and butter, and serve the mince round the head. - - - _Fore Quarter of Lamb._ - -Roasted whole, or separately. If left to be cold, chopped parsley should -be sprinkled over it. - - - _Lamb’s Fry._ - -Serve it fried a beautiful colour, and a good deal of dried or fried -parsley over it. - - - - - _Turkey to Boil._ - - -Make a stuffing of bread, herbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemonpeel, a few -oysters or an anchovy, a bit of butter, some suet, and an egg. Put this -in the crop, and fasten up the skin, and boil the turkey in a floured -cloth, to make it very white. Have ready a fine oyster sauce, made rich -with butter, a little cream, a spoonful of soy, if approved, and pour -over the bird. Or, liver and lemon sauce. - -Hen birds are best for boiling, and should be young. - - - _Turkey to Roast._ - -The sinews of the legs should be drawn, whichever way it be dressed. The -head should be twisted under the wing; and in drawing, care should be -taken not to tear the liver, or let the gall touch it. Put a stuffing of -sausage meat; or, if sausages are to be served in the dish, a bread -stuffing. As this makes a large addition to the size of the bird, -observe that the heat of the fire be constantly to that part; for the -breast is frequently not enough done. A little strip of paper should be -put on the bone to prevent scorching, while the other parts roast. Baste -well, and froth it up. Gravy in the dish, and plenty of bread sauce in a -sauce tureen. - - - _Pulled Turkey._ - -Divide the meat of the breast by pulling instead of cutting; then warm -it in a spoonful or two of white gravy, a little cream, grated nutmeg, -salt, and a little flour and butter: warm, but do not boil it. The leg -seasoned, scored, and broiled, put in the dish, with the above round it. -Cold chicken does as well. - - - _Turkey Patties._ - -Mince some of the white parts, and with grated lemon, nutmeg, salt, a -very little white pepper, cream, and a very little bit of butter warmed. -Fill the patties; they having been first baked with a bit of bread in -each, to keep them hollow. - - - _Pheasants and Partridges._ - -Roast as turkey, and serve with a fine gravy: in which put the smallest -bit of garlick, and bread sauce. When cold, they may be made into -excellent patties, but their flavour should not be overpowered by lemon. - - - _Potted Partridge._ - -When nicely cleaned, season with the following, in finest powder: mace, -Jamaica pepper, white pepper, and salt. Rub every part well; then lay -the breasts downwards in a pan, and pack the birds as close as you -possibly can. Put a good deal of butter on them; then cover the pan with -a coarse flour paste, and a paper over: tie close and bake. When cold, -put into pots, and cover with butter. - - - _A very economical way of Potting Birds._ - -Prepare as before. When baked, and become cold, cut them in proper -pieces for helping, and pack them close into a large potting pot, and -leave, if possible, no spaces to receive the butter; with which, cover -them, and one third part less will be requisite than when done whole. - - - _To clarify Butter for potted things._ - -Put it in a sauce boat, and set that in a stewpan that has a little -water in, over the fire. When melted, observe not to pour the milky -parts over the potted things, they will sink to the bottom. - - - _Fowls._ - -Boiled, with oyster, lemon, parsley, and butter, or liver sauces; or -with bacon and greens. - - - _Ditto roasted._ - -Egg sauce, bread sauce, or garnished with sausages, scalded, and -parsley. - -A large barndoor fowl well hung, stuffed in the crop with sausage meat, -and gravy in the dish, and with bread sauce. - -The head should be turned under the wing. - -Fowl split down the back, peppered, salted, and broiled. Serve it with -mushroom sauce. - - - _To boil Fowl with Rice._ - -Stew the fowl very slowly, in some clear mutton broth, well skimmed, and -seasoned with onion, mace, pepper, and salt. About half an hour before -it be ready, put in a quarter of a pint of rice, well washed and soaked. -Simmer till tender; then strain from the broth, and put the rice on a -sieve before the fire. Keep the fowl hot; lay it in the middle of the -dish, and the rice round it, without the _broth_; which will be very -nice to eat as such; but the less liquor it is done with the better. - - - _Fricassee of Chickens._ - -Boil them rather more than half in a small quantity of water: let them -cool; then cut them up, and put them to simmer in a little gravy, made -of the liquor they were boiled in, and a bit of veal or mutton, onion, -mace, lemonpeel, white pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs. When quite -tender, keep them hot while you thicken the sauce thus: strain off, and -put it back into the saucepan, with a little salt, a scrape of nutmeg, a -bit of flour and butter: give it one boil; and when you are going to -serve, beat up the yelk of an egg, add half a pint of cream, and stir -them over the fire, but do not let it boil. - -It will be equally good without the egg. - - - _Another white Sauce, more easily made._ - -Take a little of the water that boiled the fowls, (which must be kept -hot) and stew with it some cut onion, a bit of parsley, a blade of mace, -and a bit of lemonpeel. Mix with this a bit of butter, flour, and little -thick cream, and adding the chicken, warm it with the sauce. - -The above for veal or rabbit; but if either are not sufficiently done -before, then the cream and flour should be added just before serving, -after the meat is a little stewed. - - - _Davenport Fowls._ - -Hang young fowls a night: take the livers, hearts, and tenderest parts -of the gizzards, shred very small, with half a handful of young clary, -an anchovy to each fowl, one onion, and the yelks of four eggs, boiled -hard, with pepper, salt, and mace to your taste. Stuff the fowls with -this, and sew up the vents and necks quite close, that the water may not -get in. Boil them in salt and water till near done; then drain, and put -them into a stewpan, with butter enough to brown them. Then serve with -fine melted butter, and a spoonful of catsup, of either sort, in the -dish. - - - _To pull Chicken._ - -Take off the skin, and pull the flesh off the bones of a cold fowl, in -as large pieces as you can. Dredge with flour, and fry of a nice brown -in butter; which drain from it, and simmer in a good gravy, well -seasoned, and thickened with a little flour and butter. Add the juice of -half a lemon. - - - _Chicken Pie._ - -Cut up two young fowls: season with white pepper, salt, a little mace, -and nutmeg, all in the finest powder; likewise a little Cayenne. Put the -chicken, slices of ham or gammon, forcemeat, and hard eggs, alternately. -If to be in a dish, put a little water; if in a raised crust, none. -Against the pie be baked, have ready a gravy of knuckle of veal, with a -few shank bones, seasoned with herbs, onion, mace, and pepper. If in a -dish, put in as much gravy as will fill it: if in crust, let it go cold; -then open the lid, and put in the jelly. - - - _The Forcemeat for Pies of Fowls of any kind._ - -Pound fine, cold chicken, or veal, a bit of fat bacon, some grated ham, -crumbs of bread, a very little bit of onion, parsley, knotted marjorum, -and a very small bit of tarragon, chopped fine; a blade of mace, a -little nutmeg, white pepper, and salt, in finest powder. When well -mixed, add eggs to make into balls. - - - _Chicken Curry._ - -Cut up the chickens before they are dressed, and fry them in butter, -with sliced onions, till of a fine colour: or if you use those that have -been dressed, do not fry them: lay the joints, cut in two or three -pieces each, into a stewpan, with veal or mutton gravy, a clove or two -of garlick, four large spoonfuls of cream, and some Cayenne: rub smooth -one or two spoonfuls of curry powder, with a little flour, and a bit of -butter, and add twenty minutes before you serve; stewing it on till -ready. A little juice of lemon should be squeezed in when serving. - -Slices of rare done veal, rabbit, or turkey, make a good curry. - -A dish of rice boiled plain, as hereafter directed, must be always -served to eat with curry. - - - _Another Curry, and more quickly made._ - -Cut up a chicken or young rabbit; if the former, take off the skin, and -rub each piece in a large spoonful of flour, mixed with half an ounce of -curry powder: slice two or three onions, and fry in butter, of a fine -light brown; then add the meat, and fry altogether, until the latter -begin to brown; then put into a stewpan, and pour boiling water over to -cover. Let it simmer very gently two or three hours until quite tender. -If too thick, put more water half an hour before it be served. - -Dressed fowl or meat may be done; but the curry will be better made of -fresh. - - - _Grouse._ - -Are to be roasted like fowls; but their heads twisted under the wing, -and served with gravy, and bread sauce, or with sauce for wild fowl. See -Sauces. - - - _To pot Grouse, or Moor Game._ - -Pick, singe, and wash them very clean; then rub them inside and out with -a high seasoning of salt, pepper, mace, nutmeg, and allspice. Lay them -in as small a pot as will hold them: cover them with butter, and bake -them in a slow oven. When cold, take off the butter, move the birds from -the gravy, dry, and put them into pots that will just fit one or two; -the former, where there are not many. Melt the former butter with some -more, so as to completely cover the birds: but take care not to oil it. -Do not let it be too hot. - - - _To roast Widgeon, Duck, Teal, or Moorhen._ - -The flavour is best preserved without stuffing; but put some pepper, -salt, and a bit of butter in the birds. Wild fowl require to be much -less done than tame, and to be served of a fine colour. - -The basting ordered in the foregoing receipt takes off a fishy taste -which wild fowl sometimes have. Send up a very good gravy in the dish; -and on cutting the breast, half a lemon squeezed over, with pepper on -it, improves the taste. - -Or stuff them with crumbs, a little shred onion, sage, pepper, and salt, -but not a large quantity, and add a bit of butter. Slice an onion, and -put into the dripping pan, with a little salt, and baste the fowls with -it till three parts done; then remove that, and baste with butter. They -should come up finely frothed, and not be overdone. - -An excellent sauce under that article. - - - _Duck to boil._ - -Choose a fine fat duck, salt it two days, then boil it slowly, and cover -it with onion sauce made very white, and the butter melted with milk -instead of water. - -To roast duck: stuff or not, and serve with gravy. - - - _Duck Pie._ - -Bone a full grown young duck, and a fine young fowl of a good size. -Season them both well with mace, pepper, salt and allspice. Put the fowl -within the duck, and a calf’s tongue that has been pickled red, and -boiled, within the fowl. Make the whole to lie close. The skin of the -legs and wings should be drawn inwards, that the body may lie smooth, -Put the birds into a raised pie, or small piedish, and cover it with a -thickish paste. Bake in a slow oven to eat cold. - -The old Staffordshire raised pies were made as above, but a turkey was -put over the duck, and a goose over that, forming a very large pie. - - - _Goose to Roast._ - -After being carefully picked, the plugs of the feathers pulled out, and -the hairs singed, let it be well washed, dried, and seasoned with onion, -sage, pepper, and salt; fasten it tight at the neck and vent, and roast -it. - -When half done, let a narrow strip of paper be skewered on the -breastbone. Baste it well, and observe to take it up the moment it is -done, nicely frothed. When the breast rises, take off the paper, and -observe to serve it before it fall, or it will be spoiled, and come to -table flattened. Before it is cut up, cut the apron off, and pour in a -wineglass of port wine and a teaspoonful of mustard. Cut the breast from -one pinion to the other, if for a large party, without leaving meat to -the wingbone. - -Gravy, and apple sauce. - - - _Green Goose Pie._ - -Bone two green geese, having first removed every plug, and singed them -nicely. Wash them clean; season high with salt, mace, pepper, and -pimento: put one within the other, and press them close into your -piedish; put a good deal of butter over them, and bake with or without a -crust: if the latter, a cover that will keep the steam in, must supply -the place of a crust. It will keep long. - - - _Giblet Pie._ - -Stew duck or goose giblets, when nicely cleaned, with onion, black -pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs, till tender. Let them become cold; -then put them in the dish with two or three steaks of veal, beef, or -mutton, especially if there are not giblets enough to make the sized pie -that you wish. A little cup of cream, put in when baked, is a great -improvement. Put the liquor in first. - - - _Stewed Giblets._ - -As above, and add a little butter and flour. Serve with sippets, and -cream just scalded in the sauce. - - - _Stewed Pigeons._ - -Let them be fresh, and carefully cropped, drawn, and washed, then let -them soak half an hour: in the mean time cut a hard white cabbage into -water in slices as for pickling; drain it, and boil it in milk and -water; drain it again, then lay some of it at the bottom of a stewpan; -put the birds on it, being well seasoned, and cover them with the -remainder; put a little broth into them, and stew till quite tender, -before you serve. Add some cream, and a little flour and butter; give it -one boil, and serve the cabbage round the pigeons. - - - _Another way._ - -Stew in a good gravy, stuffed or not, and season well. Add a little -mushroom catsup, or fresh mushrooms. - - - _To pickle Pigeons._ - -Bone the pigeons, turn the inside out, and lard it: season with Jamaica -pepper pounded very fine, and a little salt: turn the inside outward -again, and tie the neck and rump with thread: put them in boiling water, -let them boil a minute or two to plump; take them out, and dry with a -cloth. The pickle must be made of an equal quantity of wine, and white -wine vinegar; white pepper, Jamaica pepper, sliced nutmeg, ginger, and -two or three bayleaves boiled. When it boils, put the pigeons into it, -and let them boil fifteen minutes, if small; twenty, if large. Then take -them out, wipe, and let them cool. When the pickle is cold, take off the -fat, and put them in. - -They must be kept in a stonejar, tied down with a bladder to exclude the -air. You may in some, instead of larding, put a stuffing of hard yelks -of eggs, and marrow, in equal quantities, spices, and sweet herbs. - - - _Pigeons in Jelly._ - -Save some of the liquor in which a knuckle of veal has been boiled, as -likewise a calf’s foot, or else simmer some isinglass in it, a blade of -mace, an onion, a bunch of herbs, some lemonpeel, white pepper, and -salt. When the pigeons are nicely cleaned and soaked, put them in a pan, -and pour the liquor over them; and let them be baked, and remain in it -till cold. When served, put jelly over and round them. Season them as -you approve. - - - _Potted Pigeons._ - -Take fresh ones: clean them carefully: season with pepper and salt: put -them close in a small pan, and pour butter over: bake, and when cold -take them out. Put into fresh pots, fit to serve to table, two or three -in each, and pour butter over, using that which was baked with them as -part. Observe, that it is necessary to put a good deal of butter if to -be kept. - -_Note._ Butter that has covered potted things is good for basting, and -will make very good paste for meatpies. If to be high, add some mace, -and a few Jamaica peppers to the seasoning. - - - - - _Pigeon Pie._ - - -Clean as before: season; and, if approved, put some parsley into the -birds, and a bit of butter, with pepper and salt. Lay a beefsteak at the -bottom of the dish, and hard eggs between each two birds, and a little -water. If you have ham in the house, lay a slice on each: it is a great -improvement to the flavour. - -Observe, when you cut ham for sauce or pies, to turn it, and take from -the underside instead of the prime. - - - _Broiled Pigeons._ - -Slit them down the back: season, and broil. Serve with mushroom sauce; -or melted butter, with a little mushroom catsup. - - - _Roast Pigeons._ - -Should be stuffed with uncut parsley, seasoned; and served with parsley -and butter. Asparagus, or peas, should be dressed to eat with them. - - - _Parsley Pie._ - -Lay veal or fowl at the bottom of a pie dish, seasoned. Take a colander -full of picked parsley, cover the meat with it, and pour some cream into -the dish, and a spoonful or two of broth. Cover with crust. - - - _Potatoe Pasty._ - -Boil, peel, and mash potatoes as fine as possible; then mix pepper, -salt, and a little thick cream, or, if you prefer it, butter. Make a -paste, and, rolling it out like a large puff, put the potatoe into it, -and bake it. - - - _Turnip Pie._ - -Season mutton chops with pepper and salt: lay them in the bottom of a -dish, reserving the ends of the bones to lay over the turnips; which cut -and season, and lay over the steaks till the dish be full. Put two or -three spoonfuls of water in, and cover with crust. You may add a little -onion. - - - _Shrimp Pie. Excellent._ - -Take a quart of picked shrimps: if very salt, only season with mace, and -a clove or two in fine powder; but if not salt, mince two or three -anchovies, mix with the spice, and season them. Put some butter at the -bottom of the dish, and over the shrimps, and a glass of sharp white -wine. Put a good light paste over. They do not require long baking. - - - _Cornish Pies._ - -Scald and blanch some broad beans: cut mushrooms, carrots, turnips, and -artichoke bottoms, and with some peas, and a little onion, make the -whole into a nice stew, with some good veal gravy. Bake a crust over a -dish, with a little lining round the edge, and a cup within to keep it -from sinking: open the lid, and put in the fricassee made hot; seasoning -to your taste. Shalots, parsley, lettuce, celery, or any sort of -vegetables that you like, may be added. - - - _Fish Pie._ - -Put slices of cod that have been salted a night; pepper, and between -each layer put a good quantity of parsley picked from the stalks, and -some fresh butter. Pour a little broth, if you have any, or else a -little water. Bake the pie; and when to be served, add a quarter of a -pint of raw cream warm, with half a teaspoonful of flour. Oysters may be -added. - -Mackerel will do well; but do not salt it till used. - -Soals, with oysters, seasoned with pounded mace, nutmeg, pepper, an -anchovy, and some salt, make an excellent pie. Put in the oyster liquor, -two or three spoonfuls of broth, and some butter, for gravy. When come -from the oven, pour in a cup of thick cream. - - - _To prepare Meat or Fowls for raised Pies._ - -When washed, put a good seasoning of spices and salt. Set it over a fire -in a stewpan, that will just hold the meat: put a piece of butter, and, -covering close, let it simmer in its own steam till it shrink. It must -be cool before it be put into the pie. Chicken’s sweetbreads, giblets, -pigeon’s meat, almost any thing will make a good pie, if well seasoned, -and made tender by stewing. A forcemeat may be put under and over, of -cold chicken or veal, fat bacon, shred ham, herbs, bread, and seasoning, -bound with an egg or two, or in balls. Or instead of crust, use an -earthen pie form. - - - _Hares_, - -If old, should be larded with bacon, after having hung as long as they -will keep, and being first soaked in pepper and vinegar. - -If not paunched as soon as killed, hares are more juicy: but as that is -usually done in the field, the cook must be careful to wipe it dry every -day; the liver being removed, and boiled to keep for the stuffing. - -Parsley put into the belly will help keep it fresh. - -When to be dressed, the hare must be well soaked; and if the neck and -shoulders are bloody, in warm water: then dry it, and put to it a large -fine stuffing, made of the liver, an anchovy, some fat bacon, a little -suet, herbs, spice, and bread crumbs, with an egg to bind it. Sew it up. -Observe that the ears are nicely cleaned and singed. When half roasted, -cut the skin off the neck to let out the blood, which afterwards fixes -there. Baste with milk till three parts done, then with butter: and -before served, froth it up with flour. It should be put down early, kept -at a great distance at first from the fire, and drawn nearer by degrees. - -Send a rich brown gravy in the dish; melted butter in one boat, and -currantjelly in another. - - - _To jug an old Hare._ - -After it is well cleaned and skinned, cut it up and season it with -pepper, allspice, salt, pounded, mace, and a little nutmeg: put it into -a jar, with an onion, a clove or two, a bunch of sweet herbs, and over -all a bit of coarse beef. Tie it down with a bladder and leather quite -close, and put the jar into a saucepan of water up to its neck, but no -higher. Let the water boil gently five hours. When to be served, pour -the gravy into a saucepan, and thicken it with butter and flour; or if -become cold, warm the hare with the gravy. - - - _Hare Soup._ See _Soups_. - - - _Hare Pie._ - -Season the hare after it is cut up. Put eggs, and forcemeat, and either -bake in a raised crust or a dish: if in the former, put cold jelly gravy -to it; if for the latter, the same hot; but the pie is to be eaten cold. -See _Jelly Gravy among similar articles_. - - - _Potted Hare._ - -Having seasoned, and baked it with butter over, cover it with brown -paper, and let it grow cold. Then take the meat from the bones, beat it -in a mortar, and add salt, mace, and pepper, if not high enough; a bit -of fresh butter melted, and a spoonful of the gravy that came from the -hare when baked. Put the meat into small pots, and cover it well with -butter warmed. The prime should be baked at the bottom of the pot. - - - _Broiled Hare and hashed._ - -The flavour of broiled hare is particularly fine. The legs or wings -peppered and salted first, and when done, rubbed with cold butter. - -The other parts warmed with the gravy and a little stuffing. - - - _Rabbits_ - -May be eaten various ways. - -Roasted with stuffing and gravy. - -Ditto without stuffing; and with liver, parsley, and butter: seasoned -with pepper and salt. - -Boiled, and smothered with onion sauce; the butter being melted with -milk instead of water. - -Fried, and served with dried or fried parsley, and liver sauce as above. - -Fricasseed, as directed for chickens. - -Made into Pies, as chickens, with forcemeat, &c. are excellent, when -young. - - - _To make Rabbit taste much like_ Hare. - -Choose a young full grown one: hang it, with the skin on, two or three -days: skin, and lay it unwashed in a seasoning of black and Jamaica -peppers, in fine powder, putting some port wine into the dish, and baste -it occasionally for forty hours: then stuff and roast it as hare, and -with the same sauce. Do not wash off the liquor that it lay in. - - - _Potted Rabbit._ - -Cut up and season three or four after washing them. The seasoning must -be mace, pepper, salt, a little Cayenne, and a few pimentos in finest -powder. Pack them as close as possible in a small pan, and make the -surface smooth. Keep out the carcasses, having taken all the meat off -them, and, putting a good deal of butter over the rabbits, bake them -gently. Let them remain a day or two, then remove into potting pans; and -add some fresh butter to that which already covers them. - - - - - SOUPS. - - - _Giblet Soup._ - -Scald and clean three or four sets of goose or duck giblets; then set -them on to stew with a scrag of mutton, or a pound of gravy beef, or -bone of knuckle of veal, an oxtail, or some shankbones of mutton; three -onions, a blade of mace, ten peppercorns, two cloves, a bunch of sweet -herbs, and two quarts of water. Simmer till the gizzards are quite -tender, which must be cut in three or four parts; then put in a little -cream, a spoonful of flour rubbed smooth with it, and a spoonful of -mushroom catsup; or two glasses of sherry or Madeira wine instead of -cream, and some Cayenne. - - - _Turnip Soup._ - -Stew down a knuckle of veal: strain, and let the broth stand still next -day; take off the fat and sediment, and warm it, adding turnips cut in -small dice: stew till they are tender: put a bit of pounded mace, white -pepper, and salt. Before you serve, rub down half a spoonful of flour, -with half a pint of cream, and boil with the soup: pour it on a roll in -the tureen; but it should have soaked a little first in the soup, which -should be as thick as middling cream. - - - _Old Peas Soup._ - -Save the water of boiled pork or beef: if too salt, use only a part, and -the other of plain water: or put some roast beef bones, or a ham or -bacon bone to give a relish; or an anchovy or two. Set these on with -some good whole or split peas, the smaller quantity of water at first -the better: simmer till the peas will pulp through a colander; then set -that, and some more of the liquor, besides what boiled the peas, some -carrots, turnips, celery, and onion, or a leak or two, to stew till all -be tender. Celery will take less time, and may be put in an hour before -dinner. When ready, put fried bread in dice, dried mint rubbed small, -pepper, and, if wanted, salt, in the tureen, and pour the soup upon -them. - - - _Green Peas Soup._ - -In shelling, divide the old from the young, and put the former, with a -bit of butter, and a little water into a stewpan, and the old parts of -lettuce, an onion or two, a little pepper and salt. Simmer till the peas -will pulp through a colander; which when done, add to it some more -water, and that which boiled the peas, the best parts of the lettuce, -and the young peas, a handful of spinach cut small, pepper, and salt to -taste. Stew till the vegetables are quite tender; and a few minutes -before serving, throw in some green mint, cut fine. - -Should the soup be too thin, a spoonful of rice flour, rubbed down with -a bit of butter, and boiled with it, will give it consistence. - -_Note._ If soup or gravy be too weak, the cover of the saucepan should -be taken off, and the steam let out, boiling it very quick. - -When there is plenty of vegetables, green peas soup needs no meat: but -if approved, a pig’s foot, or a small bit of any sort, may be boiled -with the old peas, and removed into the second process till the juices -shall be obtained. Observe, three or four ounces of butter, will supply -richness to a soup without meat, or make it higher with it. - - - _Gravy Soup._ - -Wash a leg of beef, break the bone, and set it over the fire with five -quarts of water, a large bunch of herbs, two onions, sliced and fried, -but not burnt, a blade or two of mace, three cloves, twenty Jamaica -peppers, and forty black. Simmer till the soup be as rich as you choose; -then strain off the meat, which will be fit for the servants’ table. -Next day take off the cake of fat, and that will warm with vegetables; -or make a piecrust for the same. Have ready such vegetables as you -choose to serve, cut in dice, carrot, and turnip, sliced, and simmer -till tender. Celery should be stewed in it likewise; and before you -serve, boil some vermicelli long enough to be tender, which it will be -in fifteen minutes. Add a spoonful of soy, and one of mushroom catsup. -Some people do not serve the vegetables, only boil for the flavour. A -small roll should be made hot, and kept long enough in the saucepan to -swell, and then be sent up in the tureen. - - - _A rich White Soup._ - -Boil in a small quantity of water a knuckle of Veal, and scrag of -mutton, mace, white pepper, two or three onions, and sweet herbs, the -day before you want the soup. Next day take off the fat, and put the -jelly into a saucepan, with a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds -blanched, and beaten to a paste in a mortar with a little water to -prevent oiling, and put to it apiece of stale white bread, or crumb of a -roll; a bit of cold veal, or white of chicken. Beat these all to a paste -with the almond paste, and boil it a few minutes with a pint of raw -thick cream, a bit of fresh lemonpeel, and half a blade of mace pounded; -then add this thickening to the soup. Let it boil up and strain it into -the tureen: if not salt enough, then put it in. If macaroni or -vermicelli be served, they should be boiled in the soup, and the -thickening be strained after being mixed with a part. A small rasped -roll may be put in. - -Instead of the cream thickening, as above, ground rice, and a little -cream may be used. - - - _A plainer White Soup._ - -Of a small knuckle of veal, two or three pints of soup may be made, with -seasoning as before, and both served together, with the addition of a -quarter of a pint of good milk. - - - _An excellent Soup._ - -A scrag or knuckle of veal, slices of undressed gammon, onions, mace, -and a small quantity of water, simmered till very strong, and lower it -with a good beef broth made the day before, and stewed until the meat is -done to rags. Add cream, vermicelli, almonds as before, and a roll. - - - _Carrot Soup._ - -Put some beef bones, with four quarts of the liquor in which a leg of -mutton or beef has been boiled, two large onions, one turnip, pepper and -salt, into a saucepan, and stew for three hours. Have ready six large -carrots, cut thin after they are scraped; strain the soup on them, and -stew till soft enough to pulp through a hair sieve or coarse cloth: then -boil the pulp with the soup; which is to be as thick as pea ssoup. Use -two wooden spoons to rub the carrots through. Make the soup the day -before it is to be used. Add Cayenne. - - - _Onion Soup._ - -To the water that has boiled a leg or neck of mutton, put carrots, -turnips, and, if you have one, a shankbone, and simmer till the juices -are obtained. Strain it on six onions previously sliced, and fried a -light brown; with which simmer it three hours. Skim it carefully, and -serve it. Put into it a little roll or fried bread. - - - _Vegetable Soup._ - -Pare and slice five or six cucumbers, the inside of as many cos -lettuces, a sprig or two of mint, two or three onions, some pepper and -salt, a pint and half of young peas, and a little parsley. Put these, -with half a pound of fresh butter, into a saucepan to stew in their own -liquor near a gentle fire half an hour; then pour two quarts of boiling -water to the vegetables, and stew them two hours: rub down a little -flour into a teacup of water; boil it with the rest fifteen or twenty -minutes, and serve it. - - - _Another Vegetable Soup._ - -Peel and slice six large onions, six potatoes, six carrots, and four -turnips: fry them in half a pound of butter: pour on them four quarts of -boiling water, and toast a crust of bread as brown and hard as possible, -but do not burn it: put that, some celery, sweet herbs, white pepper and -salt, to the above: stew gently four hours, strain through a coarse -cloth: have ready sliced carrot, celery, and a little turnip, and add to -your liking; and stew them tender in the soup. If approved, you may add -an anchovy, and a spoonful of catsup. - - - _Spinach Soup._ - -Shred two handfuls of spinach, a turnip, two onions, a head of celery, -two carrots, and a little thyme and parsley. Put all into a stewpot, -with, a bit of butter the size of a walnut, and a pint of broth, or the -water in which meat has been boiled; stew till the vegetables are quite -tender: work them through a coarse cloth or sieve with a spoon; then -with the pulp of the vegetables, and liquor, a quart of fresh water, -pepper and salt, boil all together. Have ready some suet dumplings, the -size of a walnut, and before you put the soup into the tureen, put them -into it. The suet must not be shred too fine; and take care that it is -perfectly fresh. - - - _Scotch Leek Soup._ - -Put the boiling of a leg of mutton into a stew pot, with a quantity of -chopped leeks, and pepper and salt; simmer them an hour, then mix some -oatmeal with a little cold water quite smooth, pour it into the soup, -and setting it on a slow part of the fire, let it simmer gently; but -take care that it does not burn to the bottom. - - - _Hare Soup._ - -Take an old hare that is good for nothing else than soup, cut in pieces, -and put it with a pound and a half of lean beef, two or three shankbones -of mutton well cleaned, a slice of lean bacon or ham; an onion, and a -bunch of sweet herbs: pour on it two quarts of boiling water: cover the -jar, in which you put these, with bladder and paper, and set it in a -kettle of water: simmer till the hare is stewed to pieces: strain off -the liquor, and give it one boil, with an anchovy cut in pieces, and add -a spoonful of soy, and a little Cayenne and salt. A few fine forcemeat -balls, fried of a good brown, should be served in the tureen. - - - _Scotch Mutton Broth._ - -Soak a neck of mutton in water for an hour: cut off the scrag, and put -into a stewpot with two quarts of water: as soon as it boils, skim it -well and simmer it an hour and a half; then take the best end of the -mutton, cut it into pieces, two bones in each, and put as many as you -think proper, having cut off some of the fat. Skim it the moment the -fresh meat boils up, and every quarter of an hour. Have ready four or -five carrots, the same of turnips, and three onions, all cut, but not -small, and put in time enough to be quite tender; two large spoonfuls of -Scotch barley, first wetted with cold water. The meat should stew three -hours. Salt to taste, and serve all together. Twenty minutes before -serving, put in some chopped parsley. - -It is an excellent winter dish. - - - _Soups under the articles of their respective Meats._ - -Oxcheek Soup. Hessian Soup. Mock turtle, page 49 to 52. - - - _Ox rump Soup._ - -Two or three rumps of beef, will make it stronger than a much larger -proportion of meat without; and form a very nourishing soup. - -Make it like gravy soup, and give it what flavour or thickening you -like. - - - _Soup A-la-sap._ - -Boil half a pound of grated potatoes, one pound of beef sliced thin, one -pint of grey peas, one onion, and three ounces of rice, in six pints of -water to five; strain it through a colander, then pulp the peas to it, -and turn it into a saucepan again, with two heads of celery sliced: stew -it tender, adding pepper and salt; and when you serve, fried bread. - - - _Crawfish or Prawn Soup._ - -Boil six whitings, and a large eel; or the latter, and half a thornback, -being well cleaned, with as much water as will cover them. Skim clean, -and put in whole pepper, mace, ginger, parsley, an onion, a little -thyme, and three cloves. Boil to a mash. Pick fifty crawfish, or a -hundred prawns, pound the shells, and a little roll, after having boiled -them with a little water, vinegar, salt and herbs. Pour this liquor over -the shells in a sieve, then pour the other soup, clear from the -sediment; chop a lobster, and add to it, with a quart of good beef -gravy. Add the tails of the crawfish or the prawns, and some flour and -butter; and season as necessary. - - - _Portable Soup. A very useful thing._ - -Boil one or two knuckles of veal, one or two shins of beef, and a pound -or more of fine juicy beef, in as much water only as will cover them. -When the bones are cracked, out of which take the marrow, put any sort -of spice you like, and three large onions. When the meat is done to -rags, strain it off, and put in a _very_ cold place. When cold, take off -the cake of fat (which will make crust for servants’ pies), put the soup -into a double bottom tin saucepan, set it on a pretty quick fire, but do -not let it burn. It must boil fast, and uncovered, and be stirred -constantly for eight hours; Put into a pan, and let it stand in a cold -place a day; then pour it into a round soup China dish, and set the dish -into a stewpan of boiling water on a stove, and let it boil, and be -occasionally stirred, till the soup become thick and ropy; then it is -enough. Pour it into the little round part at the bottom of cups or -basons to form cakes; and when cold, turn them out on flannel to dry, -and wrap them in it. Keep them in tin canisters. When to be used, melt -in boiling water: and if you wish the flavour of herbs or any thing -else, boil it first, and having strained the water, melt the soup in it. - -This is very convenient for a bason of soup or gravy in the country, or -at sea, where fresh meat is not always at hand. - - - - - _Clear Gravy._ - - -Slice beef thin: broil a part of it, over a very clear quick fire, just -enough to give colour to the gravy, but not to dress it: put that, and -the raw into a very nicely tinned stewpan, with two onions, a clove, or -two Jamaica and black peppers, and a bunch of sweet herbs: cover it with -hot water; give it one boil, and skim it well two or three times: then -cover it and simmer till quite strong. - - - _To draw Gravy that will keep a week._ - -Cut thin lean beef: put it in a fryingpan without any butter: set it on -a fire covered, but take care it does not burn: let it stay till all the -gravy that comes out of the meat be dried up into it again; then put as -much water as will cover the meat, and let that stew away. Then put to -the meat a small quantity of water, herbs, onions, spice, a bit of lean -ham: simmer till it is rich, then keep it in a cool place. Remove the -fat only when going to be used. - - - _A rich Gravy._ - -Cut beef in thin slices, according to the quantity wanted: slice onions -thin, and flour both: fry them of a light pale brown, but on no account -suffer them to go black: put them into a stewpan, and pouring boiling -water on the browning in the fryingpan, boil it up, and pour on the -meat. Put to it a bunch of parsley, thyme, savory, and a small bit of -knotted marjorum, and the same of tarragon, some mace, Jamaica and black -peppers, a clove or two, and a bit of ham or gammon. Simmer till you -have all the juices of the meat; and be sure to skim the moment it -boils, and frequently after. If for a hare, or stewed fish, anchovy -should be added. - -The shankbones of mutton are a great improvement to the richness of the -gravy; being first well soaked, and scoured clean. - -_Note._ Jelly gravy for cold pies should be brown or white, as the meat -or fowl is. It must be drawn without frying, relished, and made quite -clean, by running it through a flannel bag. To give it the consistence -of jelly, shanks, or knuckle, or feet, should be boiled with the bones. - - - _Jelly to cover cold Fish._ - -Clean a maid: put it with three quarts of water, an ounce and a half of -isinglass, a bit of mace, lemonpeel, white peppers, a stick of -horseradish, and a little ham or gammon. Stew, till on trying with a -spoon you find that it jellies: then strain it off, and add to it the -whites of five eggs, a glass of sherry wine, and the juice of a lemon; -give it another boil, and pour it through a jellybag till quite -transparent. - -When cold, lay it over the fish with a spoon. - - - _Cullis, or brown Sauce._ - -Lay as much lean veal over the bottom of a stewpan as will cover it an -inch thick: then cover the veal with thin slices of undressed gammon, -two or three onions, two or three bayleaves, some sweet herbs, two -blades of mace, and three cloves. Cover the stewpan, and set it over a -slow fire. When the juices come out, let the fire be a little quicker. -When the meat is of a fine brown, fill the pan with good beef broth, -boil and skim it, then simmer an hour: add a little water, mixed with as -much flour as will make it properly thick; boil it half an hour, and -strain it. - -This will keep a week. - - - _Veal Gravy._ - -Make as directed for the cullis, leaving out the spice, herbs, and -flour. It should be drawn very slowly: and if for white dishes, do not -let the meat brown. - - - _Bechamel or White Sauce._ - -Cut lean veal in small slices, and the same quantity of lean bacon or -ham: put them in a stewpan, with a good piece of butter, an onion, a -blade of mace, a few mushroom buttons, a bit of thyme, and a bayleaf. -Fry the whole over a very slow fire, but not to brown it: add flour to -thicken; then put an equal quantity of good broth, and rich cream. Let -it boil half an hour, stirring it all the time: strain it through a soup -strainer. - -N. B. Soups and gravies are far better by putting the meat at the bottom -of the pan, and stewing it, and the herbs, roots, &c. with butter, than -by adding the water to the meat at first; and the gravy that is drawn -from the meat, should be nearly dried up before the water is put to it. -Do not use the sediment of gravies, &c. that have stood to be cold. When -onions are strong, boil a turnip with them, if for sauce, which will -make them mild. - - - _Sauce for Wild Fowl._ - -Simmer ten minutes a teacupful of port wine, the same of good meat -gravy, a little shalot, a little pepper, salt, a grate of nutmeg, and a -bit of mace: put a bit of butter and flour: give one boil, and pour -through the birds; which in general are not stuffed as tame, but may be -done so, if liked. - - - _Another for the same, or Ducks._ - -Serve a rich gravy in the dish: cut the breast in slices, but do not -take them off; cut a lemon, and put pepper and salt on it; then squeeze -it on the breast, and pour a spoonful of gravy over before you help. - -_Note._ In cutting up any wild fowl, duck, goose, or turkey for a large -party, if you cut the slices down from pinion to pinion, without making -wings, there will be more prime pieces. - - - _Sauce Robart for Rumps or Steaks._ - -Put into a saucepan a piece of butter the size of an egg: set it over -the fire, and when browning, throw in a handful of sliced onions cut -small: fry them brown, but do not let them burn: add half a spoonful of -flour, shake the onions in it, give another fry, then put four spoonfuls -of gravy, pepper, and salt, and boil gently ten minutes. Skim off the -fat: add a teaspoonful of made mustard, a spoonful of vinegar, and half -a lemon juice: boil, and pour round the steaks, which should be of a -fine yellow brown, and garnished with fried parsley and lemon. - - - _An Excellent Sauce for Carp or boiled Turkey._ - -Rub half a pound of butter with a teaspoonful of flour; put to it a -_little_ water, melt it, and add near a quarter of a pint of thick -cream, and half an anchovy chopped fine, unwashed; set it over the fire, -and as it boils up, add a large spoonful of real India soy. If that does -not give it a fine colour, put a little more. Turn it into the sauce -tureen, and put some salt, and half a lemon. Stir it well to prevent -curdling. - - - _Sauce for cold Fowl or Partridge._ - -Rub down in a mortar the yelks of two eggs boiled hard, an anchovy, two -dessert spoonfuls of oil, a little shalot, and a teaspoonful of mustard, -(all should be pounded before the oil be added) then strain it. - - - _Vinagret for cold Fowl or Meat._ - -Chop fine mint, parsley, and shalot, and add salt, oil, and vinegar. It -may be poured over, or sent in a boat. - - - _Benton Sauce for hot or cold roast Beef._ - -Grate, or scrape very fine, horseradish, a little made mustard, some -pounded white sugar, and four large spoonfuls of vinegar. - -Serve in a saucer. - - - _To melt Butter._ - -On a clean trencher, mix a little flour to a large piece of butter, in -the proportion of a teaspoonful to a full quarter of a pound; then put -into a saucepan, and pour on it two large spoonfuls of hot water; set it -on the fire, and let it boil quick. You should stir it round one way, -and serve it as soon as ready. - -On the goodness of this depends the look and flavour of every sauce in -which it is put. - - - _Lobster Sauce._ - -Pound the spawn, and two anchovies: pour on two spoonfuls of gravy: -strain it into some butter melted as above; then put in the meat of the -lobster, give one boil, and add a squeeze of lemon. - - - _Another way._ - -Leave out the anchovies and gravy, and do as above, with a little salt, -and catsup, or not, as you like. Many prefer the flavour of the lobster -and salt only. - - - _Shrimp Sauce._ - -If not picked at home, pour a little water over to wash, and put them to -butter melted thick and smooth: give them one boil, and add the juice of -lemon. - - - _Anchovy Sauce._ - -Chop one or two without washing: put to some flour and butter, and a -little drop of water: stir it over the fire till it boil once or twice. -When the anchovies are good, they will be dissolved; and the colour will -be better than by the usual way. - - - _Fish Sauce without Butter._ - -Simmer very gently a quarter of a pint of vinegar, half a pint of water -(which must not be hard) with an onion, half a handful of horseradish, -and the following spices lightly bruised: four cloves, two blades of -mace, and half a teaspoonful of black pepper. When the onion is quite -tender, chop it small with two anchovies: and set the whole on the fire -to boil for a few minutes, with a spoonful of catsup. Mean time, have -ready and well beaten the yelks of three fresh eggs: strain; mix in the -liquor by degrees with them; and when well mixed, set the saucepan over -a gentle fire, keeping a bason in one hand, into which toss the sauce to -and fro, shaking the saucepan over the fire, that the eggs may not -curdle. Do not boil, only let the sauce be hot enough to give the -thickness of melted butter. - - - _Lemon Sauce._ - -Cut thin slices of lemon into very small dice, and put into melted -butter; give one boil, and pour over boiled fowls. - - - _Liver Sauce._ - -Chop boiled liver of rabbits or fowls, and do as above, with a very -little pepper and salt, and some parsley. - - - _A very good Sauce, especially to hide the bad colour of Fowls._ - -Cut the livers, slices of lemon in dice, scalded parsley, and hard eggs: -add salt, and mix with butter: boil up, and pour over the fowls. - -Or for roast rabbit. - - - _Egg Sauce._ - -Boil the eggs hard, and cut them in small pieces: then put them to -melted butter. - - - _Buttered Eggs._ - -Beat four or five eggs, yelk and white together: put a quarter of a -pound of butter in a bason and then put that in boiling water; stir it -till melted: then pour that butter and the eggs into a saucepan. Keep a -bason in your hand: just hold the saucepan in the other over a slow part -of the fire, shaking it one way; as it begins to warm, pour it into a -bason, and back; then hold it again over the fire, stirring it -constantly in the saucepan, and pouring it into the bason, more -perfectly to mix the egg and butter, until they shall be hot without -boiling. - -Serve on toasted bread; or in a bason to eat with salt fish or red -herrings. - - - _Onion Sauce._ - -Peel, and boil onions tender: squeeze the water from them; then chop, -and add butter that has been melted rich and smooth as before, but with -a little good milk instead of water: boil up once, and serve for boiled -rabbits, partridges, scrag, or knuckle of veal; or roast mutton. - - - _Oyster Sauce._ - -Save the liquor in opening, and boil with the beards, a bit of mace, and -lemonpeel. Mean time throw the oysters into cold water, and drain it -off. Strain the liquor, and put it into a saucepan with them, and as -much butter, mixed with a little milk, as will make sauce enough; a -little flour being previously rubbed with it. - -Set them over the fire, stir all the time; and when the butter has -boiled once or twice, take them off, and keep the saucepan near, but not -on the fire; for if done too much, the oysters will be hard. Squeeze a -little lemonjuice, and serve. - -If for company, a little cream is a great improvement. Observe the -oysters will thin the sauce, and put butter accordingly. - - - _Bread Sauce._ - -Boil a large onion, cut in four, with some black peppers, and milk, -until the former be quite a pap. Pour the milk strained on grated white -stale bread, and cover it. In an hour put it into a saucepan, with a -good piece of butter, mixed with a little flour: boil the whole up -together, and serve. - -Some people like the bread pulped through a colander before the butter -be added. A large spoonful of cream improves it. - - - _Little Eggs for Pies or Turtles._ - -Boil three eggs hard: beat the yelks fine with the raw yelk of an egg; -then make up the paste into small eggs, and throw them into a little -boiling water to harden. - - - _Fish Sauce A-la-Craster._ - -Thicken a quarter of a pound of butter with flour, and brown it; then -put to it a pound of the best anchovies, cut small, six blades of -pounded mace, ten cloves, forty black and Jamaica peppers, a few small -onions, a faggot of sweet herbs; namely, savory, thyme, basil, and -knotted marjorum; a little parsley, and sliced horseradish. On these -pour half a pint of the best sherry wine, and a pint and a half of -strong gravy: simmer all gently for twenty minutes; then strain it -through a sieve, and bottle it for use: the way of which, is to boil -some of it in the butter, as melting. - - - _A very fine Fish Sauce._ - -Put into a very nice tin saucepan, a pint of fine port wine, one gill of -mountain, half a pint of walnut catsup that is fine, twelve anchovies, -and the liquor that belongs to them, one gill of walnut pickle, the rind -and juice of a large lemon, four or five shalots, Cayenne to taste, -three ounces of scraped horseradish, three blades of mace, and two -teaspoonfuls of made mustard: boil gently, till the rawness go off, then -put it in small bottles for use. - -Cork very close, and seal the top. - - - - - _Camp Vinegar._ - - -Slice a large head of garlick, and put it into a widemouthed bottle, -with half an ounce of Cayenne, two teaspoonfuls of real soy, two of -walnut catsup, four anchovies chopped, a pint of vinegar, of cochineal -enough to give the colour of lavender drops. Let it stand six weeks, -then strain off quite clear, and keep in small bottles, sealed up. - - - _Lemon Pickle._ - -Wipe six lemons: cut each into eight pieces: put on them a pound of -salt, six large cloves of garlick, two ounces of horseradish, sliced -thin; likewise of cloves, mace, nutmeg, and Cayenne, a quarter of an -ounce each, and two ounces of flour of mustard; to these put two quarts -of vinegar: boil a quarter of an hour in a well tinned saucepan, or -which is better, do it in a strong jar, in a kettle of boiling water, or -set the jar on the hot hearth till done. Set the jar by, and stir it -daily for six weeks. Keep the jar close covered. Put into small bottles. - - - _Shalot Vinegar._ - -Split six or eight shalots: put them into a quart bottle: fill it up -with vinegar: stop it; and in a month it will be fit for use. - - - _Essence of Anchovies._ - -Take a dozen of anchovies, chop them, and without the bone, but with -some of their own liquor strained: add them to sixteen large spoonfuls -of water: boil gently till dissolved, which will be in a few minutes. -When cold, strain and bottle it. - - - _Mushroom Catsup._ - -Take the largest broad mushrooms, break them into an earthen pan, strew -salt over, and stir them now and then for three days. Then let them -stand for twelve, till there is a thick scum over. Strain, and boil the -liquor with Jamaica and black peppers, mace, ginger, a clove or two, and -some mustardseed. When cold, bottle it, and tie a bladder over the cork. -In three months boil it again with some fresh spice, and it will then -keep a twelvemonth. - - - _Mushroom Catsup, another way._ - -Take a stewpan full of the large flap mushrooms, that are not wormeaten, -and the skins and fringe of those you have picked; throw a handful of -salt among them, and set them by a slow fire. They will produce a great -deal of liquor, which you must strain; and put to it four ounces of -shalots, two cloves of garlick, a good deal of pepper, ginger, mace, -cloves, and a few bayleaves. Boil and skim very well. When cold, cork -close. In two months boil it up again, with a little fresh spice, and a -stick of horseradish, and it will then keep the year; which mushroom -catsup rarely does, if not boiled a second time. - - - _Walnut Catsup of the finest sort._ - -Boil a gallon of the expressed juice of walnuts when they are tender, -and skim it well: then put in two pounds of anchovies, bones and liquor, -ditto of shalots, one ounce of cloves, ditto of mace, ditto of pepper, -and one clove of garlick. Let all simmer till the shalots sink; then put -the liquor into a pan till cold. Bottle, and divide the spice to each. -Cork closely, and tie a bladder over. - -It will keep twenty years, and is not good the first. Be very careful to -express the juice at home; for it is rarely unadulterated, if bought. - -Some people make liquor of the outside shell when the nut is ripe; but -neither the flavour nor colour is then so fine. - - - _Cockle Catsup._ - -Open the cockles: scald them in their own liquor: add a little water -when the liquor settles, if you have not enough: strain through a cloth, -then season with every savory spice; and if for brown sauce, add port -wine, anchovies, and garlick; if for white, omit these, and put a glass -of sherry wine, lemonjuice and peel, mace, nutmeg, and white pepper. If -for brown, burn a bit of sugar for colouring. - -It is better to have cockles enough, than to add water; and they are -cheap. - - - _Mushroom Powder._ - -Wash half a peck of large mushrooms while quite fresh, and free them -from grit and dirt with flannel. Scrape out the black part clean, and do -not use any that are wormeaten: put them into a stewpan over the fire -without water, with two large onions, some cloves, a quarter of an ounce -of mace, and two spoonfuls of white pepper, all in powder. Simmer and -shake them till all the liquor be dried up, but be careful they do not -burn. Lay them on tins or sieves in a slow oven, till they are dry -enough to beat to powder; then put the powder in small bottles, corked -and tied closely, and keep in a dry place. - -A teaspoonful will give a very fine flavour to any soup or gravy, or any -sauce; and it is to be added just before serving, and one boil given to -it after it is put in. - - - _To dry Mushrooms._ - -Wipe them clean; and of the large take out the brown, and peel off the -skin. Lay them on paper to dry in a cool oven, and keep them in paper -bags in a dry place. When used, simmer them in the gravy, and they will -swell to near their former size. To simmer them in their own liquor till -it dry up into them, shaking the pan, then drying on tin plates, is a -good way, with spice or not, as above, before made into powder. - -Tie down with bladder, and keep in a dry place, or in paper. - - - _Sugar Vinegar._ - -To every gallon of water, put two pounds of the very coarsest sugar: -boil and skim thoroughly; then put one quart of cold water for every -gallon of hot. When _cool_, put into it a toast spread with yeast. Stir -it nine days; then barrel, and set it in a place where the sun will lie -on it, with a bit of slate on the bunghole. - -When sufficiently sour, it may be bottled: or may be used from the cask, -with a wooden spigot and faucet. - - - _Gooseberry Vinegar._ - -Boil spring water; and when cold, put to every three quarts, a quart of -bruised ripe gooseberries in a large tub. Let them remain sixty hours, -stirring often: then strain through a hair bag, and to each gallon of -liquor add a pound of the coarsest sugar. Put it into a barrel, and a -toast and yeast, cover the bunghole with a bit of slate, &c. as above. -The greater quantity of sugar and fruit, the stronger the vinegar. - - - _Wine Vinegar._ - -After making raisin wine, when the fruit has been strained, lay it on a -heap to heat: then to every hundred weight put fifteen gallons of water. -Set the cask, and put yeast, &c. as before. - -As vinegar is so necessary an article in a family, and one on which so -great a profit is made, a barrel or two might always be kept preparing, -according to what suited. If the raisins of wine were ready, that kind -might be made: if a great plenty of gooseberries made them cheap, that -sort; or if neither, then the sugar vinegar, so that the cask may not be -left empty, and grow musty. - - - _Kitchen Pepper._ - -Mix in the finest powder, one ounce of ginger; of cinnamon, black -pepper, nutmeg, and Jamaica pepper, half an ounce of each; ten cloves, -and six ounces of salt. Keep it in a bottle. It is an agreeable addition -to any brown sauces or soups. - -Spice in powder, kept in small bottles, close stopped, goes much further -than when used whole. It must be dried before pounded; and should be -done in quantities that may be wanted in three or four months. Nutmeg -need not be done; but the others should be kept in separate bottles, -with a little label on each. - - - _Browning, to colour and flavour made dishes._ - -Beat to powder four ounces of doubly refined sugar: put it into a very -nice iron fryingpan, with one ounce of fine fresh butter: mix it well -over a clear fire, and when it begins to froth, hold it up higher. When -of a very fine dark brown, pour in a small quantity of a pint of port -wine; and the whole by very slow degrees, stirring all the time. Put to -the above half an ounce of Jamaica, and the same of black pepper, six -cloves of shalots peeled, three blades of mace bruised, three spoonfuls -of mushroom, and the same of walnut catsup, some salt, and the finely -pared rind of a lemon. Boil gently fifteen minutes; pour it into a bason -till cold; take off the scum, and bottle for use. - - - _To make Sprats taste like Anchovies._ - -Salt them well, and let the salt drain from them. In twenty four hours -wipe them dry, but do not wash them. Mix four ounces of common salt, an -ounce of bay salt, an ounce of saltpetre, a quarter of an ounce of sal -prunel, and half a teaspoonful of cochineal, all in the finest powder. -Sprinkle it among three quarts of the fish, and pack them in two stone -jars. Keep in a cold place, fastened down with a bladder. - -These are pleasant on bread and butter: but have the best for sauce. - - - _To keep Anchovies when the liquor dries._ - -Pour on them beef brine. - - - _To keep Capers._ - -Add fresh vinegar, that has been scalded, and become cold; and tie them -close, to keep out the air. - - - _To make Mustard._ - -Mix the best Durham flour of mustard by degrees, with boiling water, to -a proper thickness, rubbing it perfectly smooth: add a little salt, and -keep it in a small jar, close covered; and put only as much into the -glass as will be used soon; which should be wiped daily round the edges. - - - _Another way for immediate use._ - -Mix the mustard with new milk by degrees, to be quite smooth, and add a -little raw cream. It is much softer this way, is not bitter, and will -keep well. - -The patent mustard is by many preferred, and it is perhaps as cheap, -being always ready: and if the pots are returned, three pence is allowed -for each. - -A teaspoonful of sugar to half a pint of mustard, is a great -improvement, and softens it. - - - - - PICKLES. - - - _India._ - -Lay a pound of white ginger in water one night: then scrape, slice, and -lay it in salt in a pan till the other ingredients shall be ready. - -Peel, slice, and salt a pound of garlick three days; then put it in the -sun to dry. Salt and dry long pepper in the same way. - -Prepare various sorts of vegetables thus: - -Quarter small white cabbages: salt three days: squeeze and set them in -the sun to dry. - -Cauliflowers cut in their branches: take off the green from radishes: -cut celery in three inch lengths: ditto French beans whole, likewise the -shoots of alder, which will look like bamboo. Apples and cucumbers, -choose of the least seedy sort; cut them in slices, or quarters, if not -too large. All must be salted, drained, and dried in the sun, except the -latter; over which you must pour boiling vinegar, and, in twelve hours, -drain them, but no salt must be used. - -Put the spice, garlick, a quarter of a pound of mustardseed, and as much -vinegar as you think enough for the quantity you are to pickle, into a -large stonejar, and one ounce of turmeric to be ready against the -vegetables shall be dried. When they are ready, observe the following -directions: put some of them into a two quart stonejar, and pour over -them one quart of boiling vinegar: next day take out those vegetables, -and when drained, put them into a large stock jar, and boiling the -vinegar, pour it over some more of the vegetables; let them lie a night, -and do as above. Thus proceed till you have cleansed each set from the -dust which must inevitably fall on them by being so long in doing: then, -to every gallon of vinegar, put two ounces of flour of mustard, mixing, -by degrees, with a little of it boiling hot. The whole of the vinegar -should have been previously scalded, but left to be cool before put to -the spice. Stop the jar tight. - -This pickle will not be ready for a year; but you may make a small jar -for eating in a fortnight, by only giving them one scald in water, after -salting and drying as above, but without the preparative vinegar; then -pour the vinegar that has the spice and garlick, boiling hot over. If at -any time it be found that the vegetables have not swelled properly, -boiling the pickle, and pouring it over them hot, will plump them. - - - _English Bamboo, to Pickle._ - -Cut the large young shoots of alder, which put out in the middle of May, -(the middle stalks are most tender) peel off the outward peel, or skin, -and lay them in salt and water, very strong, one night. Dry them piece -by piece in a cloth. Have in readiness a pickle thus made and boiled. To -a quart of vinegar put an ounce of white pepper, an ounce of sliced -ginger, a little mace and pimento, and pour boiling on the alder shoots, -in a stonejar: stop close, and set by the fire two hours, turning the -jar often, to keep scalding hot. If not green when cold, strain, off the -liquor, and pour boiling hot again; keeping it hot as before. Or, if you -intend to make Indian pickle, the above shoots are a great improvement -to it: in which case you need only pour boiling vinegar and mustardseed -on them; and keep them till your jar of pickles shall be ready to -receive them. - - - _Melon Mangoes._ - -There is a particular sort for this purpose which the gardeners know. -Cut a square small piece out of one side, and through that take out the -seeds, and mix with them mustard seeds and shred garlick; stuff the -melon as full as the space will allow, and replace the square piece. -Bind it up with a small new packthread. Boil a good quantity of vinegar, -to allow for wasting, with peppers, salt, ginger, and pour boiling hot -over the mangoes four successive days; the last, put flour of mustard, -and scraped horseradish into the vinegar just as it boils up. Stop -close. Observe that there is plenty of vinegar. All pickles are spoiled -if not well covered. Mangoes should be done soon after they are -gathered. - - - _Pickled Onions._ - -In the month of September, choose the small white round onions, take off -the brown skin; have ready a very nice tin stewpan of boiling water; -throw in as many onions as will cover the top. As soon as they look -clear on the outside, take them up as quick as possible with a slice, -and lay them on a clean cloth, cover them close with another, and scald -some more, and so on. Let them lie to be cold, then put them in a jar, -or glass widemouth bottle, and pour over them the best white wine -vinegar, just hot, but not boiling. When cold, cover them. - - - _Cucumbers and Onions sliced._ - -Cut them in slices, and sprinkle salt over them: next day drain them for -five or six hours, then put them into a jar, and pour boiling vinegar -over them, keeping in a warm place. The slices should be thick. Repeat -the boiling vinegar, and stop instantly; and so on till green. - - - _Pickled sliced Cucumbers, another way._ - -Slice large unpared cucumbers, an inch thick; slice onions, and put both -into a broad pan: strew a good deal of salt among them. In twenty four -hours drain them, and then lay them on a cloth to dry. Put them in small -stonejars, and pour in the strongest plain vinegar, boiling hot: stop -the jars close. Next day boil it again, and pour over, and thus thrice; -the last time add whole white pepper, and a little ginger. Keep close -covered. - - - _Young Cucumbers._ - -Choose nice young gherkins; spread them on dishes; salt them, and let -them lie a week: drain them, and, putting them in a jar, pour boiling -vinegar over them. Set them near the fire, covered with plenty of -vineleaves. If they do not become a tolerable good green, pour the -vinegar into another jar, set it over the hot hearth, and when it boils, -pour it over them again, covering with fresh leaves; and thus do till -they are of as good a colour as you wish: but as it is now known, that -the very fine green pickles are made so by using brass or bell metal -vessels, which, when vinegar is put into them, become highly poisonous, -few people like to eat them. - -_Note._ Acids dissolve the lead in the tinning of saucepans. Pickles -should never be kept in glazed jars, but in stone or glass; and vinegar, -or any acids, should be boiled, by putting them in jars of stone, over a -hot hearth, or in a kettle of water. - - - _To Pickle Walnuts._ - -When they will bear a pin to go into them, put on them a brine of salt -and water boiled, and strong enough to bear an egg, being quite cold -first. It must be well skimmed while boiling. Let them soak twelve days, -then drain them, and pour over them in the jar a pickle of the best -white wine vinegar, with a good quantity of pepper, pimento, ginger, -mace, cloves, mustardseed, and horseradish; all boiled together, but -cold. To every hundred of walnuts, put six spoonfuls of mustardseed, and -two or three heads of garlick, or shalot; but the latter is least -strong. - -Thus done, they will be good for several years, if kept close covered. -The air will soften them. They will not be fit to eat under six months. - -The pickle will serve as good catsup, when the walnuts are used. - - - _Nasturtions, for Capers._ - -Keep them a few days after they are gathered; then pour boiling vinegar -over them, and when cold, cover. - -They will not be fit to eat for some months; but are then finely -flavoured, and by many preferred to capers. - - - _An excellent way to Pickle Mushrooms, to preserve the flavour._ - -Buttons must be rubbed with a bit of flannel and salt; and from the -larger, take out the _red_ inside, for when they are _black_ they will -not do, being too old. Throw a little salt over, and put them into a -stewpan, with some mace, and pepper. As the liquor comes out, shake them -well, and keep them over a gentle fire till all of it be dried into them -again; then put as much vinegar into the pan as will cover them; give it -one warm, and turn all into a glass or stonejar. They will keep two -years, and are delicious. - - - _Red Cabbage._ - -Slice it into a colander, and sprinkle each layer with salt; let it -drain two days, then put it into a jar, and pour boiling vinegar enough -to cover, and put a few slices of red beet root. Observe to choose the -purple red cabbage. Those who like the flavour of spice, will boil it -with the vinegar. Cauliflower, cut in branches, and thrown in after -being salted, will look of a beautiful red. - - - - - _To Stew Green Peas._ - - -Put a quart of pease, a lettuce, an onion, both sliced, a bit of butter, -pepper, salt, and no more water than hangs round the lettuce from -washing. Stew them two hours very gently. When to be served, beat up an -egg, and stir into them, or a bit of flour and butter. - -Some think a teaspoonful of white powdered sugar is an improvement. -Gravy may be added; but there will be less of the flavour of the peas. -Chop a bit of mint, and stew in them. - - - _To stew Cucumbers._ - -Slice them thick, or halve, and divide them in two lengths: strew some -salt and pepper, and slice onions; add a little broth, or a bit of -butter. Simmer very slowly; and, before serving, if no butter was in -before, put some, and a little flour; or if it was in, only a little -flour, unless it wants richness. - - - _Another way._ - -Slice the onions, and cut the cucumbers large; flour and fry them in -some butter: then pour on some good broth or gravy, and stew till -enough. Skim off the fat. - - - _Stewed Onions._ - -Peel six large onions: fry them gently of a fine brown, but do not -blacken; then put them in a small stewpan, with a little weak gravy, -pepper, and salt: cover and stew two hours gently. They should be -lightly floured at first. - - - _Roast Onions._ - -Should be done with all the skins on. They eat well alone, with salt -only, and cold butter; or with roast potatoes, or with beetroots. - - - _Stewed Celery._ - -Wash, and strip off the outer leaves of six heads; halve, or leave them -whole according to their size; cut them in four inch lengths. Put them -in a stewpan with a cup of broth, or weak white gravy. Stew till tender; -then add two spoonfuls of cream, and a little flour and butter, seasoned -with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and simmer all together. - - - _Cauliflower in white Sauce._ - -Half boil, then cut into handsome pieces, and lay into a stewpan, with a -little broth, a bit of mace, a little salt, and a dust of white pepper. -Simmer half an hour; then put a little cream, butter, and flour; shake -and simmer a few minutes, and serve. - - - _Spinach_ - -Should be very carefully picked and washed; then boil, and squeeze it -dry. Put it in a pan with a bit of butter, salt, and pepper; stew it, -and serve. - - - _French way._ - -Clean as before; then put it into a stewpan without water, a spoonful of -gravy, and a lump of butter, salt, and pepper, and simmer till ready. If -too moist, squeeze the gravy from it. - - - _Stewed Red Cabbage._ - -Slice a small, or half a large red cabbage: wash it, and put into a -saucepan, with pepper and salt, no water but what hangs about the -former, and a piece of butter. Stew till quite tender; then when going -to serve, put to it half a cup of vinegar, and stir it over the fire. - -Serve for cold meat, or with sausages on it. - - - _Stewed Mushrooms._ - -Choose large buttons, or small flaps, before the fringe be turned black: -pick each one separately, and observe there is not a bad one; rub the -former, with a flannel and salt, skin the latter, and take out the -fringe. Throw them into a stewpan, with a little salt, a piece of -butter, and a few peppers; set them on a slack part of the fire, and -shake them sometime. When tender, add two large spoonfuls of cream, and -a dust of flour. - - - _Stewed Sorrel for Fricandeau, and roast Meat._ - -Wash the sorrel, and put it in a silver vessel, or stonejar, and no more -water than hangs to the leaves. Simmer in the slowest way you can; and -when done enough, put a bit of butter, and beat it well. - - - _Stewed Carrots._ - -Half boil, then nicely scrape, and slice them into a stewpan. Put to -them half a teacup of any weak broth, some pepper, and salt, and half a -cup of cream; simmer to be very tender, but not broke. Before serving, -rub the least flour with a bit of butter, and warm up with it. If -approved, chopped parsley may be added ten minutes before served. - - - _Stewed old Peas._ - -Steep them in water all night, if not fine boilers, otherwise only half -an hour; put them with water enough just to cover them, and a good bit -of butter, or a piece of beef or pork. Stew in the most gentle way till -the peas are soft, and the meat is tender. If not salt meat, add salt, -and a little pepper, and serve round the meat. - - - - - _French Sallad._ - - -Chop three anchovies, a shalot, and some parsley small; put them in a -bowl with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one of oil, a little mustard, -and salt. When well mixed, add by degrees some cold roast or boiled meat -in the very thinnest slices; put in a few at a time, they being small, -not exceeding two or three inches long; shake them in the seasoning, and -then put more; cover the bowl close; and let the sallad be prepared -three hours before it be eaten. - -Garnish with parsley, and a few slices of the fat. - - - _Lobster Sallad._ - -Make a sallad, and put some of the red part of the lobster to it, cut; -which forms a pretty contrast to the white and green of the vegetables. - -Do not put much oil, as shellfish take off the acidity of vinegar. - -Serve in a dish, not a bowl. - - - _To boil Potatoes._ - -Set them on a fire, unpared, in cold water; let them half boil, then -throw some salt in, and a pint of cold water, and let them boil again -till near done. Pour off the water, and put a clean cloth over them, and -then the saucepan cover, and set them by the fire to steam till ready. -Many use steamers. - - - _To broil Potatoes._ - -Parboil, then slice and broil them; or parboil, and set them whole on -the gridiron over a very slow fire; and when thoroughly done, send up -with their skins on. The latter is done in many Irish families. - - - _To roast Potatoes._ - -Half boil, take off the thin peel, and roast them of a beautiful brown. - - - _To fry Potatoes._ - -Slice raw potatoes after the skin is removed, and fry either in butter, -or thin batter. - - - _To mash Potatoes._ - -Boil, peel, and break to paste the potatoes; then, to two pounds, add a -quarter of a pint of milk, and a little salt, with two or three ounces -of butter, and stir all well over the fire. Serve thus, or brown the -top, when placed on the dish in a form, with a salamander; or in -scollops. - - - _To mash Parsnips._ - -Boil tender; scrape them; then mash into a stewpan, with a little cream, -a good piece of butter, pepper, and salt. - - - _To keep Green Peas._ - -Shell, and put them into a kettle of water when it boils: give them two -or three warms only, and pour them into a colander. When the water -drains off, turn them on a dresser covered with cloth; pour them on -another cloth to dry perfectly: then bottle them in widemouth bottles, -leaving only room to pour clarified mutton suet upon them an inch thick, -and for the cork; rosin it down, and keep in a cellar, or in the earth, -as ordered for gooseberries. Boil them, with a bit of butter, a spoonful -of sugar, and a bit of mint, till tender, when to be used. - - - _Another way, as practised in the Emperor of Russia’s Kitchen._ - -Shell, scald, and dry as above. Put them on tins or earthen dishes in a -cool oven to harden, once or twice. Keep them in paper bags hung up in -the kitchen. When to be used, let them lie an hour in water; then set -them on with cold water, and a bit of butter, and boil till ready. Put a -sprig of dried mint to boil with them. - - - _To preserve French Beans, to eat in the Winter._ - -Pick them young, and throw into a little wooden keg a layer three inches -deep; then sprinkle with salt: put another layer of beans, and do the -same as high as you think proper, alternately with salt; but do not be -too liberal of the latter: lay a plate, or cover of wood that will go -into the keg, and put on it a heavy stone. A pickle will rise from the -beans and salt. If too salt, the soaking and boiling will not be -sufficient to make them pleasant to the taste. When to be eaten, cut, -soak, and boil as when fresh. - -Potatoes should be kept in the earth that adheres to them when dug; and -preserved from frost. - -Carrots, parsnips, and turnips the same, and put in layers of dry sand. - -Small close cabbages laid on a stone floor before the frost sets in, -will blanch and be very fine, after many weeks’ keeping. - - - _To boil Vegetables Green._ - -Be sure the water boils when you put them in; when in, make them boil -very fast. Do not cover, but watch them; and if the water has not -slackened, you may be assured they are done when they are beginning to -sink; take them out immediately, or the colour will change. - - - - - _Small Dishes for Supper, &c._ - - -Boil eggs hard, cut them in half, take out the yelks, set the whites on -a dish, and fill with the following several ingredients; or put a saucer -upside down on a plate, and place them in quarters round: in either case -as a salmagundi. Chopped veal, yelk of egg, beetroot, anchovy, apple, -onion, ham, and parsley. A very small bit of the white of the egg must -be cut off, to make it stand on the dish as a cup. - - - _Orange Butter._ - -Boil six eggs hard: beat the yelks in a mortar with fine sugar, orange -flower water, four ounces of butter, and two ounces of almonds beaten to -a paste. When all is mixed, rub it through a colander on a dish. - -Roll butter in different forms; either like a pine, having made it in -the shape of a cone, and marking it with a teaspoon; or rolling in a -crimping form, or working it through a colander. Serve with scraped beef -or anchovies, garnished with a wreath of curled parsley. - -Rusks buttered, and anchovies split and rolled. - -Grated hung beef on rusks buttered. - -Grated cheese on ditto, or in a plate. - -Radishes placed round a plate, and butter in the middle. - -French beans boiled of a beautiful green, and served with a cream sauce. - -Jerusalem artichokes or cauliflowers in ditto. - -Broccoli boiled, served on toast, to eat with poached eggs. - -Stewed vegetables. - -Eggs poached on toast or spinach. - -Eggs buttered on toast. - -Custards in cups or glasses, with toast in long sippets. - -Cold meat in slices on a dish, or as Sandwiches. - -Ham. Tongue. Collared things. Hunter’s beef. - -Oysters cold, scalloped, stewed, or pickled. - -Potted meat, birds, fish, or cheese. - -Pickled or baked fish. - -Common cake. Baked or stewed fruits. - -Pies of meat, fowl, or fruit. - -Potatoes roasted, boiled, scalloped, mashed, &c. - -Collared beef, veal, or pig’s head. - -Lobsters. Crabs. Prawns. - -Sweetbreads. Small birds. - - - - - _Forcemeat for Patties, Balls or Stuffing._ - - -Crumbs of bread, chopped parsley, fat bacon, (if it has been dressed it -is the better,) suet, a bit of fresh butter, a little anchovy liquor, an -egg, a bit of onion, a very little knotted marjorum, a little pepper, -salt, and nutmeg. - -This is a much admired mixture; but, according to the purpose it is for, -any addition may be made to the flavour. Cold ham or gammon, different -herbs, anchovies, oysters, Cayenne. - -_Note._ To the above should have been added cold veal or chicken, which -is a great improvement. Some like lemon, and lemon thyme is a good -substitute. Tarragon gives a French flavour, but a very small proportion -is sufficient. - - - - - _Fried Patties._ - - -Mince a bit of cold veal, and six oysters; mix with a few crumbs of -bread, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a very small bit of lemonpeel; add the -liquor of the oysters: warm all in a tosser, but do not boil. Let it go -cold. Have ready a good puff paste, roll thin, and cut it in round or -square bits. Put some of the above between two of them; twist the edges -to keep in the gravy, and fry them of a fine brown. - -This is a very good thing; and baked, is a fashionable dish. - - - _Oyster Patties._ - -Put a fine puff paste into small pattypans, and a bit of bread in each; -and against they are baked, have ready the following to fill with, -taking out the bread. Take off the beards of the oysters; cut the other -parts in small bits; put them in a small tosser, with a grate of nutmeg, -the least white pepper, and salt, a morsel of lemonpeel, cut so small -that you can scarcely see it, a little cream, and a little of the oyster -liquor. Simmer for a few minutes before you fill. - - - _Lobster Patties._ - -Make with the same seasoning, a little cream, and the smallest bit of -butter. - -Beef and veal patties, as likewise turkey and chicken, are under the -several articles in the foregoing pages. - - - _Sweet Patties._ - -Chop the meat of a boiled calf’s foot, of which you use the liquor for -jelly, two apples, one ounce of orange and lemonpeel candied, and some -fresh peel and juice: mix with them half a nutmeg grated, the yelk of an -egg, a spoonful of brandy, and four ounces of currants washed and dried. - -Bake in small pattypans. - - - _Patties resembling Mincepies._ - -Chop the kidney and fat of cold veal, apple, orange and lemonpeel -candied, and fresh currants, a little wine, two or three cloves, a -little brandy, and a bit of sugar. Bake in puff paste as before. - - - _Mincepie_. - -Of scraped beef free from skin and strings, weigh two pounds; four -pounds of suet picked and chopped; then add six pounds of currants, -nicely cleaned and perfectly dry, three pounds of chopped apples, the -peel and juice of two lemons, a pint of sweet wine, a nutmeg, a quarter -of an ounce of cloves, ditto mace, ditto pimento, in finest powder; -press the whole into a deep pan when well mixed, and keep it covered in -a dry cool place. - -Half the quantity is enough, unless for a very large family. - -Have citron, orange, and lemonpeel ready, and put some of each in the -pies when made. - - - _Mincepies, without Meat._ - -Of the best apples six pounds, pared, cored, and minced; of fresh suet, -and raisins stoned, each three pounds, likewise minced: to these add of -mace and cinnamon a quarter of an ounce each, and eight cloves, in -finest powder, three pounds of the finest powder sugar, three quarters -of an ounce of salt, the rinds of four and juice of two lemons, half a -pint of port wine, and the same of brandy. Mix well, and put into a deep -pan. - -Have ready washed and dried four pounds of currants, and add as you make -the pies, with candied fruit. - - - _Lemon Mincepies._ - -Squeeze a large lemon: boil the outside till tender enough to beat to a -mash: add to it three large apples chopped, four ounces of suet, half a -pound of currants, and four ounces of sugar. Put the juice of the lemon -and candied fruit, as for other pies. Make a short crust, and fill the -patty pans as usual. - - - _Egg Mincepies._ - -Boil six eggs hard, and shred them small: shred double the quantity of -suet; then put currants washed and picked, one pound or more, if the -eggs were large; the peel of one lemon shred very fine, half the juice, -six spoonfuls of sweet wine, mace, nutmeg, sugar, a very little salt, -orange, lemon, and citron candied. Make a light paste for them. - - - _Savory Rice._ - -Wash and pick some rice: stew it very gently in a small quantity of -veal, or rich mutton broth, with an onion, a blade of mace, pepper, and -salt. When swelled, but not boiled to mash, dry it on the shallow end of -a sieve before the fire, and either serve it dry, or put it in the -middle of a dish, and pour the gravy round, having heated it. - - - _Buttered Rice._ - -Prepare some rice as above: drain, and put it with some new milk, enough -just to swell it, over the fire. When tender, pour off the milk, and add -a bit of butter, a little sugar, and pounded cinnamon. Shake it, that it -do not burn, and serve. - - - _Rice boiled to eat with Curry or roast Meats._ - -Prepare as above; then put it into a large quantity of water, boil it -quick, throw in a little salt, and observe the very moment when it is -swelled large, but not too much softened; then drain off the water, and -pour the rice on the shallow end of a sieve: set it before a fire, and -let it stay until it separates and dries. Serve it without sauce of any -kind. - - - _Omlet._ - -Make a batter of eggs and milk, and a very little flour; put to it -chopped parsley, onions, or chives (the latter is best); or a very small -quantity of shalot, a little pepper, salt, and a scrape or two of -nutmeg. Make some very nice dripping: boil in a small fryingpan, and -pour the above batter into it. When one side is of a fine yellow brown, -turn and do the other. Some scraped lean ham, put in at first, is a very -pleasant addition. Three eggs will make a pretty sized omlet; but many -cooks will use eight or ten. - -If the taste be approved, a _little_ tarragon gives a fine flavour. A -good deal of parsley should be used. - - - _Ramakins._ - -Scrape a quarter of a pound of Cheshire, and ditto of Gloucester cheese, -ditto of good fresh butter; then beat all in a mortar with the yelks of -four eggs, and the inside of a small French roll boiled in cream till -soft. Mix the paste then with the whites of the eggs previously beaten, -and put into small paper pans made rather long than square, and bake in -a Dutch oven till of a fine brown. They should be eaten quite hot. - - - _Bacon Fraise._ - -Cut streaked bacon in thin slices an inch long; make a batter of milk, -well beaten eggs, and flour; put a little lard or dripping into the pan, -and when hot pour the batter in, and cover it with a dish. When fit to -turn, put in the bacon, and turn it very carefully, that the bacon does -not touch the pan. - - - _Rich Puff Paste._ - -Weigh an equal quantity of butter with as much fine flour as you judge -necessary; mix a little of the former with the latter, and wet it with -as little water as will make into a stiff paste. Roll it out, and put -all the butter over it in slices; turn in the ends, and roll it thin; do -this twice, and touch it no more than can be avoided. The butter may be -added at twice; and to those who are not accustomed to make paste, it -may be better to do so. - -A quicker oven than for short crust. - - - _A less rich Paste._ - -Weigh a pound of flour, and a quarter of a pound of butter; rub them -together, and mix into a paste with a little water, and an egg well -beaten; of the former as little as will suffice, or the paste will be -tough. Roll, and fold it three or four times. - -Rub extremely fine, in one pound of dried flour, six ounces of butter, -and a spoonful of white sugar. Work up the whole into a stiff paste, -with as little _hot_ water as possible. - - - _German Puffs another way._ - -Boil two ounces of fresh butter in half a pint of cream; stir until -cold; then beat two eggs, strain them into the cream, and mix that by -degrees into two table spoonfuls of flour: butter teacups, and into each -put three spoonfuls of the batter; bake them half an hour, and serve the -moment they are to be eaten, turned out of the cups, with sauce of -melted butter, sugar, and the juice of a lemon. - - - _Excellent short Crust._ - -Make two ounces of white sugar, pounded and sifted, quite dry; then mix -it with a pound of flour well dried; rub into it three ounces of butter -so fine as not to be seen: into some cream put the yelks of two eggs -beaten, and mix the above into a smooth paste; roll it thin, and bake in -a moderate oven. - - - _Another._ - -Mix with a pound of fine flour, dried, an ounce of sugar pounded and -sifted; then crumble three ounces of butter in it, till it looks all -like flour, and with a gill of boiling cream, work it up to a fine -paste. - - - _Light Paste for Tarts and Cheesecakes._ - -Beat the white of an egg to a strong froth; then mix it with as much -water as will make three quarters of a pound of fine flour into a very -stiff paste: roll it very thin, then lay the third part of half a pound -of butter upon it in little bits: dredge it with some flour, left out at -first, and roll it up tight. Roll it out again, and put the same -proportion of butter; and so proceed till all be worked up. - - - _A very fine Crust for Orange Cheesecakes or Sweetmeats, when to be - particularly nice._ - -Dry a pound of the finest flour, and mix with it three ounces of refined -sugar; then work half a pound of butter with your hand till it comes to -a froth. Put the flour into it by degrees; and work into it, well -beaten, and strained, the yelks of three and whites of two eggs. If too -limber, put some flour and sugar to make fit to roll. Line your -pattypans and fill. A little above fifteen minutes will bake them. -Against they come out, have ready some refined sugar, beat up with the -white of an egg, as thick as you can: ice them all over: set them in the -oven to harden, and serve cold. Use fresh butter. - -Salt butter will make a very fine flaky crust; but if for mincepies, or -any sweet thing, should be washed. - - - _Raised Crust for Custards or Fruit._ - -Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan with water; and when it boils, -pour it into as much flour as you choose, knead and beat it till smooth: -cover it as on the other side. Raise it; and if for custard, put a paper -within to keep out the sides till half done, then fill with a cold -mixture of milk, egg, sugar, and a little peachwater, lemonpeel, or -nutmeg. By cold is meant that the egg is not to be warmed, but the milk -should be warmed by itself; not to spoil the crust. - - - _Raised Crust for Meatpies or Fowls, &c._ - -Boil water with a little fine lard, and an equal quantity of fresh -dripping, or of butter, but not much of either. While hot, mix this with -as much flour as you will want, making the paste as stiff as you can to -be smooth, which you will make it by good kneading, and beating with the -rolling pin. When quite smooth, put it in a lump into a cloth, or under -a pan to soak, till near cold. - -Those who have not a good hand at raising crust, may do thus: roll the -paste of a proper thickness, and cut out the top and bottom of the pie, -then a long piece for the sides. Cement the bottom to the sides with -egg, bringing the former rather further out, and pinching both together; -put egg between the edges of the paste to make it adhere at the sides. -Fill your pie, and put on the cover, and pinch it and the side crust -together. The same mode of uniting the paste is to be observed, if the -sides are pressed into a tin form, in which the paste must be baked, -after it shall be filled and covered; but in the latter case the tin -should be buttered, and carefully taken off when done enough; and as the -form usually makes the sides of a lighter colour than is proper, the -paste should be put into the oven again for a quarter of an hour. With a -feather put egg over at first. - - - _Crust for Venison Pastry._ - -To a quarter of a peck of fine flour use two pounds and a half of -butter, and four eggs: mix into paste with warm water, and work it -smooth and to a good consistence. Put a paste round the inside, but not -to the bottom of the dish, and let the cover be pretty thick, to bear -the long continuance in the oven. - - - _Rice Pastry._ - -Boil a quarter of a pound of ground rice in the smallest quantity of -water: strain from it all the moisture as well as you can. Beat it in a -mortar, with half an ounce of butter, and one egg well beaten, and it -will make an excellent paste for tarts, &c. - - - _Potatoe Pastry._ - -Pound boiled potatoes very fine; and add, while warm, a sufficiency of -butter to make the mash hold together. Or you may mix with it an egg; -then before it gets cold, flour the board pretty well to prevent it from -sticking, and roll it to the thickness wanted. - -If it is become quite cold before it be put on the dish, it will be apt -to crack. - - - - - PUDDINGS. - - - _Almond Puddings._ - -Beat half a pound of sweet and a few bitter almonds, with a spoonful of -water; then mix four ounces of butter, four eggs, two spoonfuls of cream -warm with the butter, one of brandy, a little nutmeg and sugar to taste. -Butter some cups, half fill, and bake the puddings. - -Serve with butter, wine, and sugar. - - - _Sago Pudding._ - -Boil a pint and a half of new milk with four spoonfuls of sago, nicely -washed and picked, lemonpeel, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Sweeten to taste; -then mix four eggs, put a paste round the dish, and bake slowly. - - - _Bread and Butter Pudding._ - -Slice bread, spread with butter, and lay it in a dish with currants -between each layer, and sliced citron, orange or lemon, if to be very -nice. Pour over an unboiled custard of milk, two or three eggs, a few -pimentos, and a very little ratafia, two hours at least before it is to -be baked; and lade it over and over to soak the bread. - -A paste round the edge makes all puddings look better, but is not -necessary. - - - _Orange Pudding._ - -Grate the rind of a Seville orange; put to it six ounces of fresh -butter, six or eight ounces of lump sugar pounded: beat them all in a -marble mortar, and add as you do it the whole of eight eggs well beaten -and strained: scrape a raw apple, and mix with the rest; put a paste at -the bottom and sides of the dish, and, over the orange mixture, put -crossbars of paste. Half an hour will bake it. - - - _Another Orange Pudding._ - -Mix of the orange paste hereafter directed two full spoons, with six -eggs, four of sugar, four ounces of butter warm, and put into a shallow -dish, with a paste lining. Bake twenty minutes. - - - _Another._ - -Rather more than two table spoonfuls of the orange paste, mixed with six -eggs, four ounces of sugar, and four ounces of butter, melted, will make -a good sized pudding, with a paste at the bottom of the dish. Bake -twenty minutes. - - - _An excellent Lemon Pudding._ - -Beat the yelks of four eggs; add four ounces of white sugar, the rind of -a lemon being rubbed with some lumps of it to take the essence: then -peel, and beat it in a mortar with the juice of a large lemon, and mix -all with four or five ounces of butter warmed. Put a crust into a -shallow dish; nick the edges, and put the above into it. When served, -turn the pudding out of the dish. - - - _A very fine Amber Pudding._ - -Put a pound of butter into a saucepan, with three quarters of a pound of -loaf sugar, finely powdered; melt the butter and mix well with it: then -add the yelks of fifteen eggs well beaten, and as much fresh candied -orange, as will add colour and flavour to it, being first beaten to a -fine paste. Line the dish with paste for turning out; and when filled -with the above, lay a crust over, as you would a pie, and bake it in a -slow oven. - -It is as good cold as hot. - - - _Baked Apple Pudding._ - -Pare and quarter four large apples; boil them tender, with the rind of a -lemon, in so little water that when done, none may remain: beat them -quite fine in a mortar: add the crumbs of a small roll, four ounces of -butter melted, the yelks of five and whites of three eggs, juice of half -a lemon, and sugar to taste. Beat all together, and lay it in a dish -with paste to turn out. - - - _Oatmeal Pudding._ - -Pour a quart of boiling milk over a pint of the best _fine_ oatmeal; let -it soak all night. Next day beat two eggs, and mix a little salt: butter -a bason that will just hold it: cover it tight with a floured cloth, and -boil it an hour and a half. Eat it with cold butter and salt. - -When cold, slice and toast it, and eat it as oatcake buttered. - - - _Dutch Pudding or Souster._ - -Melt one pound of butter in half a pint of milk; mix it into two pounds -of flour, eight eggs, four spoonfuls of yeast: add one pound of -currants, a quarter of a pound of sugar beaten and sifted. - -This is a very good pudding hot; and equally so as a cake when cold. If -for the latter, carraways may be used instead of currants. An hour will -bake it in a quick oven. - - - _A Dutch Rice Pudding._ - -Soak four ounces of rice in warm water half an hour: drain the latter -from it, and throw it into a stewpan, with half a pint of milk, half a -stick of cinnamon, and simmer till tender. When cold, add four whole -eggs well beaten, two ounces of butter melted in a teacupful of cream; -and put three ounces of sugar, a quarter of a nutmeg, and a good piece -of lemonpeel. - -Put a light puff paste into a mould or dish, or grated tops and bottoms, -and bake in a quick oven. - - - _Light, or German Puddings._ - -Melt three ounces of butter in a pint of cream; let it stand till nearly -cold, then mix two ounces of fine flour, and two ounces of sugar, four -yelks and two whites of eggs, and a little rose or orange flower water. -Bake in little cups, buttered, half an hour. They should be served the -moment they are done, and only when going to be eaten, or they will not -be light. - -Turn out of the cups, and serve with white wine and sugar. - - - _Little Bread Puddings._ - -Steep the crumbs of a penny loaf in about a pint of warm milk: when -soaked, beat six eggs, whites and yelks, and mix with the bread, and two -ounces of butter warmed, sugar, orange flower water, a spoonful of -brandy, a little nutmeg, and a teacupful of cream. Beat all well, and -bake in teacups buttered. If currants are chosen, a quarter of a pound -is sufficient; if not, they are good without; or you may put orange or -lemon candy. Serve with pudding sauce. - - - _Puddings in haste._ - -Shred suet, and put with grated bread, a few currants, the yelks of four -eggs, and the whites of two, some grated lemonpeel, and ginger. Mix, and -make into little balls about the size and shape of an egg, with a little -flour. - -Have ready a skellet of boiling water, and throw them in. Twenty minutes -will boil them; but they will rise to the top when done. - -Pudding sauce. - - - _New College Puddings._ - -Grate the crumbs of a twopenny loaf, shred suet eight ounces, and mix -with eight ounces of currants, one of citron mixed fine, one of orange, -a handful of sugar, half a nutmeg, three eggs beaten, yelk and white -separately. Mix, and make into the size and shape of a goose egg. Put -half a pound of butter into a fryingpan; and when melted, and quite hot, -stew them gently in it over a stove. Turn them two or three times till -of a fine light brown. Mix a glass of brandy with the batter. - -Serve with pudding sauce. - - - _Oxford Dumplings._ - -Of grated bread two ounces, currants, and shred suet four ounces each, -two large spoonfuls of flour, a great deal of grated lemonpeel, a bit of -sugar, and a little pimento in fine powder. Mix with two eggs and a -little milk into five dumplings, and fry of a fine yellow brown. - -Serve with sweet sauce. - - - _Brown Bread Pudding._ - -Half a pound of stale brown bread grated, ditto of currants, ditto of -shred suet, sugar, and nutmeg. Mix with four eggs, a spoonful of brandy, -and two spoonfuls of cream. Boil, in a cloth or bason that exactly holds -it, three or four hours. - - - _Boiled Bread Pudding._ - -Grate with bread, pour boiling milk over it, and cover close. When -soaked an hour or two, beat it fine, and mix with it two or three eggs -well beaten. - -Put it into a bason that will just hold it; tie a floured cloth over it, -and put it into boiling water. Send it up with melted butter poured -over. - -It may be eaten with salt or sugar. - - - _Another, and richer Bread Pudding._ - -On half a pint of crumbs of bread, pour half a pint of scalding milk; -cover for an hour. Beat up four eggs, and, when strained, add to the -bread, with a teaspoonful of flour, an ounce of butter, two ounces of -sugar, half a pound of currants, an ounce of almonds beaten with orange -flour water, half an ounce of orange, ditto lemon, ditto citron. Butter -a bason that will exactly hold it; flour the cloth, and tie tight over, -and boil one hour. - - - _Batter Pudding._ - -Rub three spoonfuls of fine flour extremely smooth by degrees into a -pint of milk; simmer till it thickens; stir in two ounces of butter; set -it to cool; then add the yelks of three eggs. Flour a cloth that has -been wet, or butter a bason, and put the batter into it; tie it tight, -and plunge it into boiling water, the bottom upwards. Boil it an hour -and a half, and serve with plain butter. If approved, a little ginger, -nutmeg, and lemonpeel may be added, and sweet sauce. - - - _Batter Pudding with Meat._ - -Make a batter with flour, milk, and eggs: pour a little into the bottom -of a pudding dish; then put seasoned meat of any kind into it, and a -little shred onion; pour the remainder of the batter over, and bake in a -slow oven. - -Some like a loin of mutton baked in batter, being first cleared of most -of the fat. - - - _Rice small Puddings._ - -Wash two large spoonfuls of rice, and simmer it with half a pint of milk -till thick. Then put with it the size of an egg of butter, and near half -a pint of thick cream, and give it one boil. When cool, mix four yelks -and two whites of eggs well beaten; sweeten to taste, and add nutmeg, -lemonpeel grated fine, and a little cinnamon powdered. - -Butter little cups, and fill three parts full, putting at bottom some -orange or citron. Bake three quarters of an hour in a slowish oven. -Serve the moment before to be eaten, with sweet sauce in the dish, or a -boat. - - - _Plain Rice Pudding._ - -Wash and pick some rice; throw among it some pimento finely pounded, but -not much; tie the rice in a cloth, and leave plenty of room for it to -swell. Boil it in a quantity of water for an hour or two. When done, eat -it with butter and sugar, or milk. Put lemonpeel if you please. - -It is very good without spice, and eaten with salt and butter. - - - _Rice Pudding with Fruit._ - -Swell the rice with a very little milk over the fire; then mix fruit of -any kind with it, (currants; gooseberries scalded; pared and quartered -apples; raisins, or blackcurrants;) with one egg into the rice, to bind -it. Boil it well, and serve with sugar. - - - _Baked Rice Pudding._ - -Swell rice as above; then add some more milk, an egg, sugar allspice and -lemonpeel. Bake in a deep dish. - - - _Another, for the Family._ - -Put into a very deep pan half a pound of rice, washed and picked, two -ounces of butter, four ounces of sugar, a few allspice pounded, and two -quarts of milk. Less butter will do, or some suet. Bake in a slow oven. - -_Note._ Eggs in rice pudding, if made of whole rice, causes the milk to -turn to whey, if not boiled first, and then mixed cool. - - - _A George Pudding._ - -Boil very tender a handful of whole rice in a small quantity of milk, -with a large piece of lemonpeel. Let it drain; then mix with it a dozen -of good sized apples, boiled to pulp, and as dry as possible. Add a -glass of white wine, the yelks of five eggs, and two ounces of orange -and citron cut thin; make it pretty sweet. Line a mould or bason with a -very good paste: beat the five whites of the eggs to a very strong -froth, and mix with the other ingredients: fill the mould, and bake it -of a fine brown colour. Serve it with the bottom upward, with the -following sauce: two glasses of wine, a spoonful of sugar, the yelk of -two eggs, and a bit of butter as large as a walnut: simmer without -boiling, and pour to and from the saucepan, till of a proper thickness, -and put in the dish. - - - _Rice Piecrust._ - -Clean, and put some rice, with an onion and a little water and milk, or -milk only, into a saucepan, and simmer till it swell. Put seasoned chops -into a dish, and cover it with the rice. - -Rabbits fricasseed, and covered thus, are very good. - - - _Potatoe Pudding with Meat._ - -Boil them till fit to mash: rub through a colander and make into a thick -batter, with milk and two eggs. Lay some seasoned steaks in a dish, then -some batter; and over the last layer pour the remainder of the batter. -Bake a fine brown. - - - _Steak, or Kidney Pudding._ - -If kidney, split, and soak it, and season that or the meat. Make a paste -of suet, flour, and milk: roll it, and line a bason with some: put the -kidney or steaks in, cover with paste, and pinch round the edge. Cover -with a cloth, and boil a considerable time. - - - _Suet Puddings._ - -Shred a pound of suet; mix with a pound and a quarter of flour, three -eggs beaten separately, a little salt, and as little milk as will make -it. Boil five hours. It eats well next day, cut in slices and broiled. - - - _Suet Dumplings._ - -Make as above, and drop into boiling water, or into the boiling of beef; -or you may boil in a cloth. - - - _Apple, Currant, or Damson Dumplings or Pudding._ - -Make as above, and loin a bason with the paste tolerably thin: fill with -the fruit, and cover it: tie a cloth over tight, and boil till the fruit -shall be done enough. - - - _Snowball._ - -Swell rice in milk; strain it off, and having pared and cored apples, -put the rice round them, tying each up in a cloth. Put a bit of -lemonpeel, a clove, or cinnamon in each, and boil them well. - - - _Hunter’s Pudding._ - -Mix of suet, flour, currants, and raisins stoned and a little cut, a -pound each, the rind of lemon, shred as fine as possible, six Jamaica -peppers in fine powder, four eggs, a glass of brandy, a little salt, and -as little milk as will make it of a proper consistence. Boil it in a -floured cloth, or a melon mould, eight or nine hours. Serve with sweet -sauce. Add sometimes a spoonful of peachwater. - -This pudding will keep, after it is boiled, six months, if kept tied up -in the same cloth, and hung up, folded in a sheet of cap paper to -preserve it from dust, being first cold. When to be used, it must boil a -full hour. - - - _Common Plumb Pudding._ - -The same proportions of flour and suet, and half the quantity of fruit, -with spice, lemon, a glass of wine, or not, and one egg and milk, will -make an excellent pudding, if long boiled. - - - _Custard Pudding._ - -Mix by degrees a pint of good milk with a large spoonful of flour, the -yelks of five eggs, some orange flower water, and a little pounded -cinnamon. Butter a bason that will exactly hold it: pour the batter in, -and tie a floured cloth over it. Put it in boiling water, and turn it -about a few minutes to prevent the egg going to one side. Half an hour -will boil it. - -Put currant jelly on it, and serve with sweet sauce. - - - _A Rich Rice Pudding._ - -Boil half a pound of rice in water, with a little bit of salt, till -quite tender: drain it dry. Mix it with the yelks and whites of four -eggs, a quarter of a pint of cream, with two ounces of fresh butter -melted in the latter, four ounces of beefsuet, or marrow, or veal suet -taken from a fillet of veal, finely shred, three quarters of a pound of -currants, two spoonfuls of brandy, one of peachwater, or ratafia, -nutmeg, and grated lemonpeel. When well mixed, put a paste round the -edge, and fill the dish. Slices of candid orange, lemon, and citron, if -approved. Bake in a moderate oven. - - - _Millet Pudding._ - -Wash three spoonfuls of the seed; put it into the dish, with a crust -round the edges: pour over it as much new milk as shall nearly fill the -dish, two ounces of butter warmed with it, sugar, shred lemon, and a -little scrape of ginger and nutmeg. As you put it in the oven, stir in -two eggs beaten; and a spoonful of shred suet. - - - _An excellent plain Potatoe Pudding._ - -Take eight ounces of boiled potatoes, two ounces of butter, the yelks -and whites of two eggs, a quarter of a pint of cream, one spoonful of -white wine, a morsel of salt, the juice and rind of a lemon. Beat all to -a froth: sugar to taste. A crust or not, as you like. Bake it. If wanted -richer, put three ounces more butter, sweatmeats and almonds, and -another egg. - - - _Carrot Pudding._ - -Beat a large carrot tender: bruise it well, and mix with it a -tablespoonful of biscuit beaten to powder or four Naples biscuit, four -yelks and two whites of eggs, a pint of scalded cream, some rose, or -orange flower water, a little ratafia, nutmeg, and sugar. If you have no -scalded cream, raw will do, if very thick. Put a little rim of paste -round the dish, and bake it. Put orange, lemon or citron, cut in good -sized bits. - - - _An excellent Apricot Pudding._ - -Halve twelve large apricots: give them a scald till they are soft. Mean -time pour on the grated crumbs of a penny loaf, a pint of boiling cream; -when half cold, four ounces of sugar, the yelks of four beaten eggs, and -a glass of white wine. Pound the apricots in a mortar, with some or all -of the kernels; mix then the fruit and other ingredients together: put a -paste round the dish, and bake the pudding half an hour. - - - _Baked Gooseberry Pudding._ - -Stew gooseberries in a jar over a hot hearth, or in a saucepan of water, -till they will pulp. Take a pint of the juice pressed through a sieve, -and beat it with three yelks and whites of eggs, beaten and strained, -and one ounce and a half of butter: sweeten it well, and put a crust -round the dish. A few crumbs of roll should be mixed with the above to -give a little consistence, or four ounces of Naples biscuit. - - - _A Green Bean Pudding._ - -Boil and blanch old beans, beat them in a mortar with very little pepper -and salt, some cream, and the yelk of an egg. A little spinach juice -will give a finer colour, but it is as good without. Boil it in a bason -that will just hold it, for an hour and pour parsley and butter over. - -Serve bacon to eat with it. - - - _Baked Almond Pudding._ - -Beat fine four ounces of almonds, four or five bitter ditto, with a -little wine, yelks of six eggs, peel of two lemons grated, six ounces of -butter, near a quart of cream, juice of one lemon. When well mixed, bake -it half an hour, with a paste round the dish. - - - _Shelford Pudding._ - -Mix three quarters of a pound of currants, or raisins, one pound of -suet, one pound of flour, six eggs, a little good milk, some lemonpeel, -and a little salt. Boil it in a melon shape six hours. - - - _Brandy Pudding._ - -Line a mould with jar raisins stoned, or dried cherries, then with thin -slices of French roll; next to which put ratafias, or macaroons, then -the fruit, roll, and cakes in succession, until the mould be full; -sprinkling in at times two glasses of brandy. Beat four eggs, yelks and -whites: put to them a pint of milk or cream, lightly sweetened, with -half a nutmeg, and the rind of half a lemon finely grated. Let the -liquid sink into the solid part; then flour a cloth, tie it tight over, -and boil one hour; keep the mould the right side up. Serve with pudding -sauce. - - - _Buttermilk Pudding._ - -Warm three quarts of new milk, and turn it with a quart of buttermilk: -when ready, drain the curd through a sieve: when dry, pound it in a -marble mortar, with near half a pound of sugar, a lemon boiled tender, -the crumbs of a roll grated, a nutmeg grated, six bitter almonds, four -ounces of warm butter, a teacupful of good cream, the yelks of five, and -whites of three eggs, a glass of sweet wine, and one of brandy. - -When well incorporated, bake in small cups or bowls well buttered. If -the bottom be not brown, use a salamander: but serve as quick as -possible, and with pudding sauce. - - - _Curd Puddings, or Puffs._ - -Turn two quarts of milk to curd; press the whey from it; rub it through -a sieve, and mix four ounces of butter, the crumbs of a penny loaf, two -spoonfuls of cream, half a nutmeg, a small quantity of sugar, and two -spoonfuls of white wine. Butter little cups, or small pattypans, and -fill them three parts. Orange flower water is an improvement. Bake them -with care. - -Serve with sweet sauce in a boat. - - - _Boiled Curd Pudding._ - -Rub the curd of two gallons of milk, when drained, through a sieve. Mix -it with six eggs, a little cream, two spoonfuls of orange flower water, -half a nutmeg, of flour and crumbs of bread each three spoonfuls, -currants and raisins half a pound of each. Boil an hour in a thick well -floured cloth. - - - _Small Almond Puddings._ - -Pound eight ounces of almonds, and a few bitter, with a spoonful of -water and mix with four ounces of butter warmed, four yelks and two -whites of eggs, sugar to taste, two spoonfuls of cream, and one of -brandy; mix well, and bake in little cups buttered. Serve with pudding -sauce. - - - _Excellent light Puffs._ - -Mix two spoonfuls of flour, a little grated lemonpeel, some nutmeg, half -a spoonful of brandy, a little loaf sugar, and one egg: then fry it -enough, but not brown; beat it in a mortar with five eggs, whites and -yelks; put a quantity of lard in a fryingpan, and when quite hot, drop a -dessert spoonful of batter at a time: turn as they brown. They will be -large. Serve immediately. Sweet sauce. - - - _Pippin Pudding._ - -Coddle six pippins in vineleaves covered with water, but very gently, -that the inside be done without breaking the skins. When soft, take off -the skins, and with a teaspoon take the pulp from the core. Press it -through a colander; add to it two spoonfuls of orange flower water, -three eggs beaten, a pint of scalded cream, sugar and nutmeg to taste. -Lay a thin puff paste at the bottom and sides of the dish: shred some -very thin lemonpeel as fine as possible, and put into the dish; as -likewise some orange and citron in small slices. - - - _Yorkshire Pudding._ - -Mix five spoonfuls of flour, with a quart of milk, and three eggs well -beaten. Butter the pan. When brown by baking under the meat, turn the -other side upwards, and brown that. It should be made in a square pan, -and cut into pieces to come to table. Set it over a chafing dish at -first, and stir it some minutes. - - - _A quick made Pudding._ - -Flour and suet half a pound each, four eggs, a quarter of a pint of new -milk, a little mace and nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of raisins, ditto -of currants: mix well, and boil three quarters of an hour with the cover -of the pot on, or it will require longer. - - - _Yeast or Suffolk Dumplings._ - -Make a very light dough with yeast, as for bread, but with milk instead -of water, and put salt. Let it rise an hour before the fire. - -Twenty minutes before you are to serve, have ready a large stewpan of -boiling water. Make the dough into balls, the size of a middling apple, -throw them in, and boil twenty minutes. If you doubt when done enough, -stick a clean fork into one, and if it come out clear, it is done. - -The way to eat them is to tear them apart on the top with two forks, for -they become heavy by their own steam. Eat immediately with meat, sugar, -butter or salt. - - - _Russian Seed, or ground Rice Pudding._ - -Boil a large spoonful heaped of either in a pint of new milk, with -lemonpeel and cinnamon. When cold add sugar, nutmeg, and two eggs, well -beaten. Bake with a crust round the dish. - - - _Observations on making Puddings._ - -The outside of a boiled pudding often tastes disagreeably, which arises -from the cloth not being nicely washed, and kept in a dry place. It -should be dipped in boiling water, squeezed dry, and floured, when to be -used. - -If bread, it should be tied loose; if batter, tight over. - -The water should boil quick when the pudding is put in; and it should be -moved about for a minute, lest the ingredients should not mix. - -Batter pudding should be strained through a coarse sieve, when all is -mixed. In others the eggs separately. - -The pans and basons must be always buttered. - -A pan of cold water should be ready, and the pudding dipt in as soon as -it comes out of the pot, and then it will not adhere to the cloth. - - - - - SWEET DISHES. - - - _Lemon Custards._ - -Beat the yelks of eight eggs till they are as white as milk; then put to -them a pint of boiling water, the rinds of two lemons grated, and the -juice sweetened to your taste. Stir it on the fire till thick enough, -then add a large glass of rich wine, and half a glass of brandy; give -the whole one scald, and put it in cups, to be eaten cold. - - - _Lent Potatoes._ - -Beat three or four ounces of almonds, and three or four bitter, when -blanched, putting a little orange flower water to prevent oiling: add -eight ounces of butter, four eggs well beaten and strained, half a glass -of raisin wine, and sugar to your taste. Beat all well till quite -smooth, and grate in three Savoy biscuit. Make balls of the above, with -a little flour, the size of a chestnut; throw them into a stewpan of -boiling lard, and boil them of a beautiful yellow brown. Drain them on a -sieve. - -Serve sweet sauce in a boat, to eat with them. - - - _Rice Flummery._ - -Boil with a pint of new milk, a bit of lemonpeel, and cinnamon: mix with -a little cold milk, as much rice flour as will make the whole of a good -consistence: sweeten, and add a spoonful of peachwater, or a bitter -almond beaten. Boil it, observing it does not burn. Pour it into a shape -or pint bason, taking out the spice. When cold, turn the flummery into a -dish, and serve with cream, milk, or custard round; or put a teaspoonful -of cream into half a pint of new milk, a glass of raisin wine, a little -sugar, and a squeeze of lemon. - - - _Curds and Cream._ - -Turn to curd three or four pints of milk with runnet; break it, and let -the whey run out, then put it into a bason; and when to be served, but -it on a dish with some cream, or fine milk, either plain or sweetened. - - - _Another way._ - -To four quarts of new milk warmed, put from a pint to a quart of -buttermilk strained, according to its sourness; keep the pan covered -until the curd be of a firmness to cut three or four times across with a -saucer, as the whey leaves it: put it into a shape, and fill up until it -is solid enough to take the form. Serve with cream plain, or mixed with -sugar, wine, and lemon. - - - _London Syllabub._ - -Put a pint of port or white wine into a bowl, nutmeg grated, and a good -deal of sugar, then milk into it near two quarts of milk, frothed up. If -the wine be not rather sharp, it will require more for this quantity of -milk. - -In Devonshire, clouted cream is put on the top, and pounded cinnamon and -sugar. - - - _Staffordshire Syllabub._ - -Put a pint of cyder, and a glass of brandy, sugar, and nutmeg into a -bowl, and milk into it; or pour warm milk from a large teapot some -height into it. - - - _Devonshire Junket._ - -Put warm milk into a bowl; turn it with runnet; then put some scalded -cream, sugar and cinnamon on the top, without breaking the curd. - - - _A very fine Somersetshire Syllabub._ - -In a large China bowl put a pint of port, and a pint of sherry, or other -white wine; sugar to taste. Milk the bowl full. In twenty minutes cover -it pretty high with clouted cream; grate over it nutmeg: put pounded -cinnamon and nonpareil comfits. - - - _Sack Cream._ - -Boil a pint of raw cream, the yelk of an egg well beaten, two or three -spoonfuls of white wine, sugar, and lemonpeel; stir it over a gentle -fire till it be as thick as rich cream; put it in a dish, and serve it -cold, garnished with rusks or sippets of toasted bread. - - - _A Froth to set on Cream, Custard, or Trifle, which looks and eats - well._ - -Sweeten half a pound of the pulp of damsons, or any other sort of -scalded fruit: put to it the whites of four eggs beaten, and beat the -pulp with them, until it will stand as high as you choose; and being put -on the cream, &c. with a spoon, it will take any form. It should be -rough to imitate a rock. - - - _Floating Island._ - -Mix three half pints of thin cream with a quarter of a pint of raisin -wine, a little lemonjuice, orange flower water, and sugar; put into a -dish for the middle of the table, and put on the cream a froth like the -above, which may be made of raspberry or currantjelly. - - - _Another way._ - -Scald a codlin before it is ripe, or any sharp apple, and pulpit through -a sieve. Beat the whites of two eggs with sugar, and a spoonful of -orange flower water; mix in by degrees the pulp, and beat all together -until you have a large quantity of froth. Serve it on a raspberry cream; -or you may colour the froth with beetroot, raspberry, or currantjelly, -and set it on a white cream, having given it the flavour of lemon, -sugar, and wine as above; or, put the froth on a custard. - - - _Everlasting, or Solid Syllabubs._ - -Mix a quart of thick raw cream, one pound of refined sugar, a pint of -white, and half a pint of sweet wine in a deep pan: put to it the grated -peel and the juice of three lemons. Beat, or whisk it one way half an -hour, then put it into glasses. - -It will keep good, in a cool place, ten days. - - - _Yellow Lemon Cream, without Cream._ - -Pare four lemons very thin into twelve large spoonfuls of water, and -squeeze the juice on seven ounces of finely pounded sugar: beat the -yelks of nine eggs _well_; add the peels and juice beaten together for -some time; then strain it through a flannel into silver or very nice -blocktin saucepan; set it over a gentle fire, and stir it one way till -pretty thick, and scalding hot, but not boiling, or it will curdle. Pour -it into jelly glasses. A few lumps of sugar should be rubbed hard on the -lemons before they are pared, or after, as the peel will be so thin as -not to take all the essence, and the sugar will attract it, and give -better colour and flavour. - - - _White ditto_ - -Is made the same as the above; only put the whites of the eggs instead -of the yelks, whisking it extremely well to froth. - - - _Lemon Cream._ - -Take a pint of thick cream, and put to it the yelks of two eggs well -beaten, four ounces of fine sugar, and the thin rind of a lemon: boil it -up, then stir it till almost cold. Put the juice of a lemon in a dish or -bowl, and pour the cream upon it, stirring it till quite cold. - - - _An excellent Cream._ - -Whip up three quarters of a pint of very rich cream to a strong froth, -with some finely scraped lemonpeel, a squeeze of the juice, half a glass -of sweet wine, and sugar to make it pleasant but not too sweet. Lay it -on a sieve or in a form, and next day put it on a dish, and ornament it -with very light puff paste biscuit, made in tin shapes the length of a -finger, and about two thick, over which sugar may be strewed, or a light -glaze with isinglass. Or you may use macaroons. - - - _Blancmange or Blamange._ - -Boil two ounces of isinglass in three half pints of water half an hour; -strain it to a pint and half of cream; sweeten it, and add some -peachwater, or a few bitter almonds; let it boil once up, and put it -into what forms you please. If not to be very stiff, a little less -isinglass will do. Observe to let the blamange settle before you turn it -into the forms, or the blacks will remain at the bottom of them, and be -on the top of the blamange when taken out of the moulds. - - - _Dutch Flummery._ - -Boil two ounces of isinglass in three half pints of water very gently -half an hour: add a pint of white wine, the juice of three and the thin -rind of one lemon, and rub a few lumps of sugar on another lemon to -obtain the essence; and with them add as much more sugar as shall make -it sweet enough. Having beaten the yelks of seven eggs, give them and -the above, when mixed, one scald; stir all the time, and pour it into a -bason. Stir it till half cold, then let it settle, and put it into a -melon shape. - - - _Calf’s Feet Jelly._ - -Boil two feet in five pints of water till the feet are broken, and the -water half wasted: strain it, and, when cold, take off the fat, and -remove the _jelly_ from the sediment; then put it into a saucepan, with -sugar, raisin wine, lemonjuice to your taste, and some lemonpeel. When -the flavour is rich, put to it the whites of five eggs well beaten, and -their shells are broken. Set the saucepan on the fire, but do not stir -the jelly after it begins to warm. Let it boil twenty minutes after it -rises to a head, then pour it through a flannel jellybag; first dipping -the bag in hot water to prevent waste, and squeezing it quite dry. Run -the jelly through and through until clear; then put it into glasses or -forms. - -Observe, that the feet for _all_ jellies should be only scalded to take -off the hair; not bought boiled, which is the usual way; but the -following mode will greatly facilitate the clearing of jelly: when the -mixture has boiled twenty minutes, throw in a teacupful of cold water; -let it boil five minutes longer; then take the saucepan off the fire, -cover it close, and keep it half an hour: after which, it will be so -clear as to need only once running through the bag, and much waste will -be saved. - -Observe, feet for all jellies are boiled so long by the people who sell -them, that the nutritious juices are lessened; they should be only -scalded to take off the hair. The liquor will require greater care in -removing the fat; but the jelly will be far stronger, and, of course, -allow more water. - - - _Another sort._ - -Boil four quarts of water with three calf’s feet that have been only -scalded, till half wasted: take the jelly from the fat and sediment: mix -with it the juice of a Seville orange, and twelve lemons, the peels of -three, the whites and shells of twelve eggs; brown sugar to taste, near -a pint of raisin wine, one ounce of coriander seed, a quarter of an -ounce of allspice, a bit of cinnamon, and six cloves, all bruised, after -having previously mixed them cold. The jelly should boil fifteen minutes -without stirring; then clear it through a flannel bag. While running -take a little jelly, and mix with a teacupful of water in which a bit of -beetroot has been boiled, and run it through the bag when all the rest -is run out; and this is to garnish the other jelly, being cooled on a -plate; but this is matter of choice. - - - _Orange jelly._ - -Grate the rind of two Seville and two China oranges, and two lemons; -squeeze the juice of three of each, and strain, and add the juice to a -quarter of a pound of lump sugar, and a quarter of a pint of water, and -boil till it almost candies. Have ready a quart of isinglassjelly made -with two ounces, put to it the syrup, and boil it once up; strain off -the jelly, and let it stand to settle as above before it be put into the -mould. - - - _Hartshornjelly._ - -Simmer eight ounces of hartshorn shavings with two quarts of water to -one; strain it, and boil it with the rinds of four China oranges and two -lemons pared thin; when cool, add the juice of both, half a pound of -sugar, and the whites of six eggs beaten to a froth; let the jelly have -three or four boils without stirring, and strain it through a jellybag. - - - _Imperial Cream._ - -Boil a quart of cream with the thin rind of a lemon, then stir it till -nearly cold; have ready in a dish or bowl that you are to serve in, the -juice of three lemons strained with as much sugar as will sweeten the -cream; which pours into the dish from a large teapot, holding it high, -and moving it about to mix with the juice. It should be made at least -six hours before it be served. - - - _A Cream._ - -Boil half a pint of cream, and half a pint of milk, with two bayleaves, -a bit of lemonpeel, a few almonds beaten to paste, with a drop of water, -a little sugar, orange flower water, and a teaspoonful of flour, having -been rubbed down with a little cold milk, and mixed with the above. When -cold, put a little lemonjuice to the cream, and serve it in cups or -lemonade glasses. - - - _Cheap, and excellent Custards._ - -Boil three pints of new milk, with a bit of lemonpeel, a bit of -cinnamon, two or three bayleaves, and sweeten it. Meanwhile, rub down -smooth a large spoonful of rice flour into a cup of cold milk, and mix -with it two yelks of egg well beaten. Take a bason of the boiling milk, -and mix with the cold, and then pour that to the boiling; stirring it -one way, till it begins to thicken, and is just going to boil up; then -pour it into a pan, stir it some time, add a large spoonful of -peachwater, two teaspoonfuls of brandy, or a little ratafia. - - - _Richer Custard._ - -Boil a pint of milk with lemonpeel and cinnamon; mix a pint of cream, -and the yelks of five eggs well beaten. When the milk tastes of the -seasoning, sweeten it enough for the whole, pour it into the cream, -stirring well, then give the custard a simmer till of proper thickness. -Do not let it boil. Stir the whole time one way: season as above. - - - _Almond Cream._ - -Beat four ounces of sweet almonds, and a few bitter, in a mortar, with a -teaspoonful of water to prevent oiling, both having been blanched. Put -the paste to a quart of cream, and add the juice of three lemons -sweetened; beat it up with a whisk to a froth, which takes off on the -shallow part of a sieve. Fill glasses with some of the liquor and the -froth. - - - _Brandy Cream._ - -Boil two dozen of almonds blanched, and pounded bitter almonds in a -little milk. When cold, add it to the yelks of five eggs beaten well in -a little cream; sweeten, and put to it two glasses of best brandy; and -when well mixed, pour to it a quart of thin cream. Set it over the fire, -but do not let it boil. Stir one way till it thickens, then pour into -cups, or low glasses. When cold it will be ready. A ratafia drop may be -put in each, if you choose it. If you wish it to keep, scald the cream -previously. - - - _Snow Cream._ - -Put to a quart of cream the whites of three eggs well beaten, four -spoonfuls of sweet wine, sugar to your taste, and a bit of lemonpeel: -whip it to a froth, remove the peel, and serve in a dish. - - - _A pretty Supper dish._ - -Boil a teacupful of rice, having first washed it in milk, till tender: -strain off the milk; lay the rice in little heaps on a dish; strew over -them some finely powdered sugar and cinnamon, and put warm wine and a -little butter into the dish. - - - _Wine Roll._ - -Soak a penny French roll in raisin wine till it will hold no more: put -it in the dish, and pour round it a custard, or cream, sugar, and -lemonjuice. Just before it is served, sprinkle over it some nonpareil -comfits; or stick a few blanched and slit almonds into it. - -Sponge biscuit may be used instead of the roll. - - - _An excellent Trifle._ - -Lay macaroons and ratafia drops over the bottom of your dish, and pour -in as much raisin wine as they will suck up; which, when they have done, -pour on them cold rich custard, made with more eggs than directed in the -foregoing pages, and some rice flour. It must stand two or three inches -thick. On that put a layer of raspberry jam, and cover the whole with a -very high whip made the day before, of rich cream, the whites of two -well beaten eggs, sugar, lemonpeel, and raisin wine. If made the day -before used, it has quite a different taste, and is solid and far -better. - - - _Burnt Cream._ - -Boil a pint of cream with a stick of cinnamon, and some lemonpeel; take -it off the fire, and pour it very slowly into the yelks of four eggs, -stirring till half cold: sweeten, and take out the spice, &c. Pour it -into the dish; when cold, strew white pounded sugar over, and brown it -with a salamander. - - - _Rice and Sago Milks_ - -Are made by washing the seeds nicely, and over a slow fire simmering -with milk till sufficiently done. The former sort requires lemon, spice -and sugar; the latter is fine without anything to flavour it. - - - _Lemon Honeycomb._ - -Sweeten the juice of a lemon to your taste, and put it in the dish that -you serve it in. Mix the white of an egg that is beaten with a pint of -rich cream, and a little sugar; whisk it, and as the froth rises put it -on the lemonjuice. - -Do it the day before it is to be used. - - - _Coffee Cream. Much admired._ - -Boil a calf’s foot in water till it wastes to a pint of jelly: clear it -of sediment and fat. Make a teacup of very strong coffee; clear it with -a bit of isinglass to be perfectly bright; pour it to the jelly, and add -a pint of very good cream, and as much fine Lisbon sugar as is pleasant. -Give one boil up, and pour into the dish. It should jelly, but not be -stiff. Observe that your coffee be fresh. - - - _Orange Fool._ - -Mix the juice of three Seville oranges, three eggs well beaten, a pint -of cream, a little nutmeg and cinnamon, and sweeten to your taste. Set -the whole over a slow fire, and stir it till it becomes as thick as good -melted butter, but it must not be boiled; then pour it into a dish for -eating cold. - - - _Gooseberry Fool._ - -Put the fruit into a stonejar and some good Lisbon sugar with them: set -the jar on a stove, or in a saucepan of water over the fire; if the -former, a large spoonful of water should be added to the fruit. When it -is done enough to pulp, press it through a colander: have ready a -sufficient quantity of new milk, and a teacup of raw cream boiled -together; or an egg instead of the latter, and left to be cold; then -sweeten it pretty well with fine Lisbon sugar, and mix the pulp by -degrees, with it. - - - _Apple Fool._ - -Stew apples as directed for gooseberries, and then peel and pulp them. -Prepare the milk, &c. and mix as before. - - - _Raspberry Cream._ - -Mash the fruit gently, and let them drain; then sprinkle a little sugar -over, and that will produce more juice; then put the juice to some -cream, and sweeten it. After which, if you choose to lower it with some -milk, it will not curdle; which it would, if put to the milk before the -cream; but it is best made of raspberry jelly, instead of jam, when the -fresh fruit cannot be obtained. - - - _Flummery._ - -Put three large handfuls of very small white oatmeal to steep a day and -night in cold water; then pour it off clear, and add as much more water, -and let it stand the same time. Strain it through a fine hair sieve, and -boil it till it be as thick as hasty pudding; stirring it well all the -time. When first strained, put to it one large spoonful of white sugar, -and two of orange flower water. Put it into shallow dishes; and serve to -eat with wine, cyder, milk, or cream and sugar. It is very good. - - - _To butter Oranges._ - -Grate off a little of the outside rind of four Seville oranges, and cut -a round hole, at the blunt the end opposite the stalk, large enough to -take out the pulp, seeds, and juice; then pick the seeds and skin from -the pulp. Rub the oranges with a little salt, and lay them in water for -a short time. You are to save the bits cut out. Set the fruit on to boil -in fresh water till they are tender, shifting the water to take out the -bitterness. In the mean time, make a thin syrup with fine sugar, and put -the oranges into it, and boil them up, turning them round, that each -part may partake of the syrup, as there need not be enough to cover -them, and let them remain in it hot till they are to be served. About -half an hour before you want them, put some sugar to the pulp, and set -over the fire; mix it well, and let it boil; then add a spoonful of -white wine for every orange. Give it a boil, and then put in a bit of -fresh butter, and stir it over the fire to thicken. Fill the oranges -with it, and serve them with some of the syrup in the dish. Put the bits -on the top. - - - _Buttered Orange Juice._ - -Mix the juice of seven Seville oranges with four spoonfuls of rose -water, and add the whole to the yelks of eight and whites of four eggs, -well beaten. Then strain the liquor to half a pound of sugar pounded; -stir it over a gentle fire, and when it begins to thicken, put about the -size of a small walnut of butter: keep it over the fire a few minutes -longer, then pour it into a flat dish, and serve it to eat cold. - -If you have no silver saucepan, do it in a Chinabason in a saucepan of -boiling water, the top of which will just receive the bason. - - - _Stewed Pears._ - -Pare and halve, or quarter, large pears, according to their size: throw -them into water, as the skin is taken off before they are divided, to -prevent their turning black. Pack them round a blocktin stewpan, and -sprinkle as much sugar over as will make them pretty sweet: add -lemonpeel, a clove or two, and some allspice cracked. Just cover them -with water, and put some of the red liquor which will be directed -hereafter; cover them close, and stew three or four hours. When tender, -take them out, and pour the liquor over them. - - - _Baked Pears._ - -These need not be of a fine sort; but some taste better than others, and -often those that are least fit to eat raw. Wipe, but do not pare, and -lay them on tin plates, and bake them in a slow oven. When baked enough -to bear it, flatten them with a silver spoon. When done through, put -them on a dish. - -Apples in the same way are excellent, and serve for desserts. - - - _Dried Apples, or Pears._ - -Put them in a cool oven six or seven times, and flatten them by degrees, -and gently, when soft enough to bear it. If the oven be too hot they -will waste; and at first it should be very cool. - -The Biffin, the Minshul crab, or any tart apples, are the sort for -drying. - - - _Black Caps._ - -Halve and core some fine large apples: put them in a shallow pan: strew -white sugar over, and bake them. Boil a glass of wine, the same of -water, and sweeten it for sauce. - - - _Stewed Golden Pippins._ - -Scoop out the core; pare them very thin; and as you do it, throw them in -water. For every pound of fruit make half a pound of single refined -sugar into syrup, with a pint of water. When skimmed, put the pippins -in, and stew till clear; then grate lemon over, and serve in the syrup. -Be careful not to let them break. - -They are an elegant and good dish for a corner or dessert. - - - _Red Apples in Jelly._ - -Pare and core some well shaped apples; pippins, or golden rennets, if -you have them, but others will do: throw them into water as you do them. -Put them in a preserving pan, and with as little water as will only half -cover them, let them coddle; and when the lower side is done, turn them. -Observe that they do not lie too close when first put in. Mix some -pounded cochineal with the water, and boil with the fruit. When -sufficiently done, take them out on the dish they are to be served in, -the stalk downwards. Take the water, and make a rich jelly of it with -loaf sugar, boiling the thin rind and juice of a lemon. When coming to a -jelly, let it grow cold, and put it on and among the apples, and cut the -peel of the lemon in narrow strips, and put across the eye of the apple. - -Observe that the colour be fine from the first, or the fruit will not -afterward gain it. - - - _Apple jelly, to serve to table._ - -Prepare twenty golden pippins: boil them in a pint and a half of water -from the spring, till quite tender; then strain the liquor through a -colander. To every pint put a pound of fine sugar; add grated orange or -lemon, then boil to a jelly. - - - _Another._ - -Prepare apples as before, by boiling and straining: have ready half an -ounce of isinglass, boiled in half a pint of water to a jelly: put this -to the apple water, and apple as strained through a coarse sieve: add -sugar, a little lemonjuice, and peel. Boil all together, and put into a -dish. Take out the peel. - - - _To prepare Apples for Puffs._ - -Pare and core apples; cover them with water, but put them as close as -possible, that they may take but little: add a little pounded cinnamon -and a clove; to every dozen apples two spoonfuls of rosewater, and a -little lemonpeel finely shred. Sweeten and cool before you make it into -puffs. - - - _Pippin Tarts._ - -Pare thin two Seville or China oranges; boil the peel tender, and shred -it fine. Pare and core twenty apples; put them in a stewpan, and as -little water as possible; when half done, add half a pound of sugar, the -orangepeel and juice: boil till pretty thick. When cold, put it in a -shallow dish, or pattypans lined with paste, to turn out, and be eaten -cold. - - - _Apple Marmalade._ - -Scald apples till they will pulp from the core; then take an equal -weight of sugar in large lumps, just dip them in water, and boiling it -till it can be well skimmed, and is a thick syrup; put to it the pulp, -and simmer it on a quick fire a quarter of an hour. - -Keep it in small pots, covered with paper dipped in brandy. - - - _Codlins to scald._ - -Wrap each in a vine leaf, and pack them close in a nice saucepan; and, -when full, pour as much water as will cover them. Set it over a gentle -fire, and let them simmer slowly till done enough to take the thin skin -off when cold. Place them in a dish, with or without milk, cream, or -custard; if the latter, there should be no ratafia. Dust fine sugar over -the apples. - - - _Different ways of dressing Cranberries._ - -For pies and puddings, with a good deal of sugar. - -Stewed in a jar, with the same; which way they eat well with bread, and -are very wholesome. - -Thus done, pressed and strained, the juice makes a fine drink for people -in fevers. - - - _Cranberry jelly._ - -Make a very strong isinglassjelly. When cold, mix it with a double -quantity of cranberry juice pressed as above: sweeten and boil it up; -then strain it into a shape. - -The sugar must be good loaf, or the jelly will not be clear. - - - _Cranberry and Rice jelly._ - -Boil and press the fruit: strain the juice; and by degrees mix into it -as much ground rice as will, when boiled, thicken to a jelly. Boil it -gently, stirring it, and sweeten to your taste. Put it into a bason or -form, and serve to eat as the before directed jelly, with milk or cream. - - - _Prune Tart._ - -Give prunes a scald: take out the stones and break them: put the kernels -into a little cranberry juice, with the prunes and sugar; simmer, and -when cold, make a tart of the sweetmeat. - - - _To fill preserved Oranges. Corner dish._ - -For five, take a pound of Naples biscuit, some blanched almonds, the -yelks of four eggs beaten, sugar to your taste, four ounces of butter -warmed: grate the biscuit, and mix with the above, and some orange -flower water. Fill preserved oranges, and bake in a very slow oven. If -you like them frosted, sift sugar over them as soon as filled; otherwise -wipe them. Custard to fill will do as well; if so, you need not bake the -oranges, but put in cold. - - - _Orange Tart._ - -Squeeze, pulp, and boil two Seville oranges tender: weigh them, and -double of sugar; beat both together to a paste, and then add the juice -and pulp of the fruit, and the size of a walnut of fresh butter, and -beat all together. Choose a very shallow dish, line it with a light puff -crust, and lay the paste of orange in it. You may ice it. See _Paste_. - - - _Codlin Tart._ - -Scald the fruit, as directed under that article; when ready, take off -the thin skin, and lay them whole in a dish, put a _little_ of the water -that the apples were boiled in at bottom, and strew them over with lump -sugar or fine Lisbon; when cold, put a paste round the edges, and over. - -You may wet it with white of egg, and strew sugar over, which looks -well: or, cut the lid in quarters, without touching the paste on the -edge of the dish; and either put the broad end downwards, and make the -point stand up, or remove the lid altogether. Pour a good custard over -it; when cold, sift sugar over it. - -Or line the bottom of a shallow dish with paste, lay the apples in it, -put sugar over, and lay little twists of paste over in bars. - - - _Cherry Pie_ - -Should have a mixture of other fruit; such as currants or raspberries, -or both. - - - _Rhubarb Tart._ - -Cut the stalks in lengths of four or five inches, and take off the thin -skin. If you have a hot hearth, lay them in a dish, and put over a thin -syrup of sugar and water: cover with another dish, and let it simmer -very slowly an hour; or do them in a blocktin saucepan. When cold, make -into a tart, as codlin. - - - _Currant and Raspberry._ - -Make as a pie; or for a tart; line the dish, put sugar and fruit, lay -bars across, and bake. - - - _Applepie._ - -Pare and core the fruit, having wiped the outside; which, with the -cores, boil with a little water till it tastes well. Strain, and put a -little sugar, and a bit of bruised cinnamon, and simmer again. In the -mean time place the apples in a dish, a paste being put round the edge; -when one layer is in, sprinkle half the sugar, and shred lemonpeel, and -squeeze some juice, or a glass of cyder; if the apples have lost their -spirit, put in the rest of the apples, sugar, and the liquor that you -have boiled. Cover with paste. You may add some butter when cut, if -eaten hot: or put quince marmalade, orange paste, or cloves to flavour. - - - _Puffs of any sort of Fruit_ - -May be made, but it should be prepared first with sugar. Apples will do, -as before directed; or, as follows, eat best: the crust must be thick, -if used raw. Pare and slice apple; sprinkle sugar, and some chopped -lemon: or stew in a small stonejar. When cold, make it into puffs of -thin crust. - - - _A Tansey._ - -Beat seven eggs, yelks and whites separately: add a pint of cream, near -the same of spinach juice, and a little tansey juice gained by pounding -in a stone mortar; a quarter of a pound of Naples biscuit, sugar to -taste, a glass of white wine, and some nutmeg. Set all in a saucepan, -just to thicken, over the fire; then put into a dish, lined with paste -to turn out, and bake it. - - - _Pancakes of Rice._ - -Boil half a pound of rice to a jelly in a small quantity of water: when -cold, mix it with a pint of cream, eight eggs, a bit of salt, and -nutmeg. Stir in eight ounces of butter just warmed, and add as much -flour as will make the batter thick enough. Fry in as little lard or -dripping as possible. - - - _Common Pancakes._ - -Make a light batter of eggs, flour, and milk. Fry in a small pan, in hot -dripping or lard. Salt, or nutmeg and ginger may be added. - -Sugar and lemons should be served to eat with them. Or, when eggs are -scarce, make the batter with flour, and small beer, ginger, &c. Or clean -snow, with flour, and a very little milk, will serve as well as eggs. - - - _Irish Pancakes._ - -Beat eight yelks and four whites of eggs: strain them into a pint of -cream; put a grated nutmeg and sugar to your taste. Set three ounces of -fresh butter on the fire, stir it, and as it warms, pour it to the -cream, which should be warm when the eggs are put to it; then mix smooth -almost half a pint of flour. Fry the pancakes very thin, the first with -a bit of butter, but not the others. Serve several, one on another. - - - _Fine Pancakes, fried without Butter, or Lard._ - -Beat six fresh eggs extremely well; mix, when strained, with a pint of -cream, four ounces of sugar, a glass of wine, half a nutmeg grated, and -as much flour as will make it almost as thick as ordinary pancake -batter, but not quite. Heat the fryingpan tolerably hot, wipe it with a -clean cloth; then pour in the batter, to make thin pancakes. - - - _Bockings._ - -Mix three ounces of buckwheat flour, with a teacupful of warm milk, and -a spoonful of yeast; let it rise before the fire about an hour; then mix -four eggs, well beaten, and as much milk as will make the batter the -usual thickness for pancakes, and fry them as they are done. - - - _A Fraise._ - -Cut streaked bacon in thin slices an inch long: make a batter of a pint -of milk, three eggs, and a large spoonful of flour; add salt and pepper: -put a piece of fresh dripping in the pan, and, when hot, pour half the -batter, and on it strew the bacon, then the remainder of the batter. Let -it do gently; and be careful, in turning, that the bacon do not come to -the pan. - - - _Fritters._ - -Make them of any of the batters directed for pancakes by dropping a -small quantity into the pan. Or make the plainer sort, and put pared -apple, sliced and cored, into the batter, and fry some of it with each -slice. Currants, or sliced lemon as thin as paper, make an agreeable -change. - - - _Spanish Fritters._ - -Cut the crumb of a French roll into lengths, as thick as your finger, in -what shape you will. Soak in some cream, nutmeg, sugar, pounded -cinnamon, and an egg. When well soaked, fry of a nice brown, and serve -with butter, wine, and sugar sauce. - - - _Potatoe Fritters._ - -Boil two large potatoes, and scrape them fine: beat four yelks and three -whites of eggs, and add to the above, with one large spoonful of cream, -another of sweet wine, a squeeze of lemon, and a little nutmeg. Beat -this batter half an hour at least. It will be extremely light. Put a -good quantity of fine lard in a stewpan, and drop a spoonful of the -batter at a time into it: fry them; and serve as a sauce, a glass of -white wine, the juice of a lemon, one dessert spoonful of peachleaf, or -almond water, and some white sugar warmed together: not to be served in -the dish. - - - _Cheesecakes._ - -Strain the whey from the curd of two quarts of milk. When rather dry, -crumble it through a coarse sieve, and mix with six ounces of fresh -butter, one ounce of pounded blanched almonds, a little orange flower -water, half a glass of raisin wine, a grated biscuit, four ounces of -currants, some nutmeg, and cinnamon, in fine powder, and beat all the -above with three eggs, and half a pint of cream, till quite light; then -fill the pattypans three parts full. - - - _A plainer sort._ - -Turn three quarts of milk to curd: break it, and drain the whey. When -dry, break it in a pan, with two ounces of butter, till perfectly -smooth: put to it a pint and a half of thin cream or good milk, and add -sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and three ounces of currants. - - - _Cheesecakes, another way._ - -Mix the curd of three quarts of milk, a pound of currants, twelve ounces -of Lisbon sugar, a quarter of an ounce each of cinnamon and nutmeg, the -peel of two lemons chopped so fine that it becomes a paste, the yelks of -eight and whites of six eggs, a pint of scalded cream, and a glass of -brandy. Put a light thin puff paste in the pattypans, and three parts -fill them. - - - _Lemon Cheesecakes._ - -Mix four ounces of sifted lump sugar, and four ounces of butter, and -gently melt it; then add the yelks of two and the white of one egg, the -rind of three lemons shred fine, and the juice of one and a half; one -Savoy biscuit, some blanched almonds pounded, and three spoonfuls of -brandy. Mix well, and put in paste made as follows: eight ounces of -flour, six ounces of butter; two thirds of which mix with the flour -first; then wet it with six spoonfuls of water, and roll the remainder -in. - - - _Another Lemon Cheesecake._ - -Boil two large lemons, or three small ones; and, after squeezing, pound -them well together, in a mortar, with four ounces of loaf sugar, the -yelks of six eggs, and eight ounces of fresh butter. Fill the pattypans -half full. - -Orange cheesecakes are done the same way, only you must boil the peel in -two or three waters to take out the bitterness. - - - _Orange Cheesecakes._ - -When you have blanched half a pound of almonds, beat them very fine, -with orange flower water, and half a pound of fine sugar beaten and -sifted, a pound of butter that has been melted carefully without oiling, -and which must be nearly cold before you use it; then beat the yelks of -ten and whites of four eggs: pound two candied oranges, and a fresh one -with the bitterness boiled out, in a mortar, till as tender as -marmalade, without any lumps; and beat the whole together, and put into -pattypans. - -For the crust, turn to page 139. - - - _Potatoe Cheesecakes._ - -Boil six ounces of potatoes, and four ounces of lemonpeel: beat the -latter in a marble mortar, with four ounces of sugar; then add the -potatoes, beaten, and four ounces of butter melted in a little cream. -When well mixed, let it stand to grow cold. Put crust in pattypans, and -rather more than half fill them. Bake in a quick oven half an hour; -sifting some double refined sugar on them when going to the oven. This -quantity will make a dozen. - - - _Almond Cheesecakes._ - -Blanch and pound four ounces of almonds, and a few bitter, with a -spoonful of water; then add four ounces of sugar pounded, a spoonful of -cream, and the whites of two eggs well beaten. Mix all as quick as -possible; put into very small pattypans, and bake in a pretty warm oven -under twenty minutes. - - - - - FRUITS, TO KEEP. - - - _Oranges or Lemons, for Puddings, &c._ - -When you squeeze the fruits, throw the outside in water without the -pulp. Let them remain in the same a fortnight, adding no more. Boil them -therein till tender; strain it from them, and when they are tolerably -dry, throw them into any old jar of candy, you may have remaining from -old sweetmeats; or if you have none, boil a small quantity of syrup of -common loaf sugar and water, and put over them. In a week or ten days -boil them gently in it till they look clear, and that they may be -covered with it in the jar. You may cut each half of the fruit in two, -and they will occupy small space. - - - _To preserve Gooseberries._ - -Before they become too large, let them be gathered; and take care not to -cut them in taking off the stalks and buds. Fill wide mouthed bottles; -put the corks loosely in, and set the bottles up to the neck in water in -a boiler. When the fruit looks scalded, take them out; and when -perfectly cold, cork close, and rosin the top. Dig a trench in a part of -the garden least used, sufficiently deep for all the bottles to stand, -and the earth be thrown over, to cover them a foot and a half. When a -frost comes on, a little fresh litter from the stable will prevent the -ground from hardening, so that the fruit cannot be dug up. Or, scald as -above; when cold, fill the bottles with cold water; cork them, and keep -them in a damp, or dry place: they will not be spoiled. - - - _Another way._ - -In the size and preparation as above. When done, have boiling water -ready, either in a boiler or large kettle, and into it put as much rock -alum as will, when dissolved, harden the water, which you will taste by -a _little_ roughness: if there be too much it will spoil the fruit. Put -as many gooseberries into a large sieve as will lie at the bottom -without covering one another. Hold the sieve in the water till the fruit -begins to look scalded on the outside: then turn them gently out of the -sieve on a cloth on the dresser: cover them with another cloth, and put -some more to be scalded; and so on till all shall be finished. Observe -not to put one quantity on another, or they will become too soft. The -next day pick out any bad or broken ones, bottle the rest, and fill up -the bottles with the alum water in which they were scalded: which must -be kept in the bottles; for if left in the kettle, or in a glazed pan, -it will spoil. Stop them close. - -_Note._ The water must boil all the time the process is carrying on. -Gooseberries, done this way, make as fine tarts as fresh off the trees. - - - _Another way._ - -In dry weather pick the gooseberries that are full grown, but not ripe: -top and tail them, and put into open mouthed bottles. Gently cork them -with new velvet corks; put them in the oven when the bread is drawn, and -let them stand till shrunk a quarter part: take them out of the oven, -and immediately beat the corks in tight: cut off the tops, and rosin -down close. Set them in a dry place; and if well secured from air they -will keep the year round. - -If gathered in the damp, or the gooseberries’ skins are the least cut in -taking off the stalks and buds, they will mould. - -Currants and damsons may be done the same. - - - _To keep Currants._ - -The bottles being perfectly clean and dry, let the currants be cut from -the large stalks with the smallest bit of stalk to each, that, the fruit -not being wounded, no moisture may be among them. It is necessary to -gather them when the weather is quite dry; and if the servant can be -depended upon, it is best to cut them under the trees, and let them drop -gently into the bottles. - -Stop up the bottles with cork and rosin, and put them into the trench in -the garden with the neck downwards. Sticks should be placed opposite to -where each sort of fruit begins. - -_Note._ The directions for gooseberries in case of frost. - -Cherries and damsons keep in the same way. - -Currants may be scalded, and kept with or without sugar, as directed for -gooseberries. - - - _To keep Codlins for several months._ - -Gather codlins at Midsummer of a middling size: put them into an earthen -pan: pour boiling water over them, and cover the pan with -cabbage-leaves. Keep them by the fire till they would peel, but do not -peel them; then pour the water off till both are quite cold. Place the -codlins then in a stonejar with a smallish mouth, and pour on them the -water that scalded them. Cover the pot with bladder wetted, and tied -very close, and then over it coarse paper tied again. - -It is best to keep them in small jars, such as will be used at once when -opened. - - - _To keep Damsons for winter Pies._ - -Put them in small stonejars, or wide mouthed bottles: set them up to -their necks in a boiler of cold water, and lighting a fire under, scald -them. Next day, when perfectly cold, fill up with spring water. Cover -them. - - - _Another way._ - -Boil one third as much sugar as fruit with it, over a slow fire, till -the juice adheres to the fruit, and forms a jam. Keep it in small jars -in a dry place. If too sweet, mix with it some of the fruit that is done -without sugar. - - - _Another way._ - -Choose steep pots if you can get them, which are of equal size top and -bottom (they should hold eight or nine pounds): put the fruit in about a -quarter up, then strew in a quarter of the sugar, then another quantity -of fruit, and so till all of both are in. The proportion of sugar is to -be three pounds to nine pounds of fruit. Set the jars in the oven, and -bake the fruit quite through. When cold, put a piece of clean scraped -stick into the middle of the jar, and let the upper part stand above the -top; then pour melted mutton suet over the top, full half an inch thick, -having previously covered the fruit with white paper. Keep the jars in a -cold dry place, and use the suet as a cover, which you will draw up by -the stick; minding to leave a little forked branch to it to prevent its -slipping out. - - - _Observations on Sweetmeats._ - -Sweetmeats should be kept in a very dry place. Unless they have a very -small proportion of sugar, a warm one does not hurt; but when not -properly boiled, that is, long enough, but not quick, heat makes them -ferment, and damp causes them to grow mouldy. They should be looked at -two or three times in the first two months, that they may be gently -boiled again, if not likely to keep. - -It is necessary to observe, that sugar being boiled more or less, -constitutes the chief art of the confectioner; and those who are not -practised in this knowledge, and only preserve in a plain way for family -use, are not aware that, in two or three minutes, a syrup over the fire -will pass from one gradation to another, called, by the confectioners, -degrees of boiling, of which there are six, and those subdivided. But I -am not versed in the minutia; and only make the observation to guard -against under boiling, which prevents sweetmeats from keeping; and quick -boiling and long, which brings them to candy. - -Attention, without much practice, will enable a person to do any of the -following sorts of sweetmeats, &c. and they are as much as is wanted in -a private family; and the higher articles of preserved fruits may be -bought at less expense than made. - -A pan should be kept for the purpose of preserving, of double blocktin. -A bow handle opposite the straight one, for safety, will do very well; -and, if put by nicely cleaned, in a dry place, when done with, will last -for several years. Those of copper or brass are improper, as the tinning -wears out by the scraping of the sweetmeat ladle. There is a new sort of -iron, with a strong tinning, which promises to wear long. Sieves and -spoons should be kept likewise for sweet things. - - - _To clarify Sugar._ - -Break as much as required in large lumps, and put a pound to half a pint -of water, in a bowl, and it will dissolve better than when broken small. -Set it over the fire, and the well whipt white of an egg: let it boil -up, and, when ready to run over, pour a little cold water in it to give -it a check; but when it rises a second time, take it off the fire, and -set it by in the pan for a quarter of an hour: during which time the -foulness will sink to the bottom, and leave a black scum on the top; -which take off gently with a skimmer, and pour the syrup into a vessel -very quickly from the sediment. - - - _To dry Cherries, with Sugar._ - -Stone six pounds of Kentish; put them into a preservingpan, with two -pounds of loaf sugar pounded and strewed among them: simmer till they -begin to shrivel, then strain them from the juice; lay them on a hot -hearth, or in an oven, when either are cool enough to dry without baking -them. - -The same syrup will do another six pounds of fruit. - - - _To dry Cherries without Sugar._ - -Stone and set them over the fire in the preservingpan: let them simmer -in their own liquor, and shake them in the pan. Put them by in China -common dishes. Next day give them another scald, and put them, when -cold, on sieves to dry, in an oven of at tempered heat as above. Twice -heating, an hour each time, will do them. - -Put them in a box, with a paper between each layer. - - - _Excellent Sweetmeats for Tarts, when Fruit is plentiful._ - -Divide two pounds of apricots when just ripe, and take out and break the -stones. Put the kernels without their skins to the fruit: add to it -three pounds of green gage plums, and two pounds and a half of lump -sugar. Simmer until the fruit be a clear jam. The sugar should be broken -in large pieces, and just dipped in water, and added to the fruit over a -slow fire. Observe that it does not boil, and skim it well. If the sugar -be clarified it will make the jam better. - -Put it into small pots; in which, all sweetmeats keep best. - - - _Currantjelly, red or black._ - -Strip the fruit, and in a stonejar stew them in a saucepan of water, or -by boiling it on the hot hearth; strain off the liquor, and to every -pint weigh a pound of loaf sugar. Put the latter in large lumps into it, -in a stone or China vessel, till nearly dissolved; then put it in a -preservingpan. Simmer and skim as necessary. When it will jelly on -plate, put it in small jars or glasses. - - - _Raspberry Jam._ - -Weigh equal quantities of fruit and sugar. Put the former into a -preservingpan; boil and break it; stir constantly, and let it boil very -quickly. When most of the juice is wasted, add the sugar, and simmer to -a fine jam. - -This way the jam is greatly superior in colour and flavour to that which -is made by putting the sugar in at first. - - - _Raspberry Jam another way._ - -Put the fruit in a jar into a kettle of water, or on a hot hearth, till -the juice will run from it; then take away a quarter of a pint from -every pound of fruit. Boil and bruise it half an hour, then put in the -weight of the fruit in sugar, and, adding the same quantity of -currantjuice, boil it to a strong jelly. - -The raspberry juice will serve to put into brandy; or may be boiled, -with its weight in sugar, for making the jelly for raspberry ice or -cream. - - - _Raspberry jelly, for Ices or Creams._ - -Do the fruit as directed for currantjelly, and use in the same -proportion of sugar and liquor. - - - _Raspberry Cakes._ - -Pick out any bad raspberries that are among the fruit: weigh and boil -what quantity you please; and when mashed, and the liquor is wasted, put -to it sugar the weight of the fruit you first put into the pan. Mix it -well _off_ the fire, until perfectly dissolved; then put it on China -plates, and dry it in the sun. As soon as the top part dries, cut with -the cover of a cannister into small cakes, turn them on fresh plates, -and, when dry, put them in boxes with layers of paper. - - - _Apricot Cheese._ - -Weigh an equal quantity of pared fruit and sugar: wet the latter a very -little, and let it boil quickly, or the colour will be spoiled: blanch -the kernels, and add to it. Twenty or thirty minutes will boil it. Put -it in small pots or cups half filled. - - - _Apricots or Peaches in Brandy._ - -Wipe, weigh, and pick the fruit, and have ready a quarter of the weight -of fine sugar in fine powder. Put the fruit into an icepot that shuts -very close: throw the sugar over it, and then cover the fruit with -brandy. Between the top and cover of the pot, put a piece of double cap -paper. Set the pot into a saucepan of water till the brandy be as hot as -you can possibly bear to put your finger in, but must not boil. Put the -fruit into a jar, and pour the brandy on it. When cold, put a bladder -over, and tie it down tight. - - - _Cherries in Brandy._ - -Weigh the finest morellas, having cut off half the stalk: prick them -with a new needle, and drop them into a jar or widemouthed bottle. Pound -three quarters the weight of sugar or white candy: strew over, fill up -with brandy, and tie a bladder over. - - - _To prepare Oranges to put into Orange Puddings._ - -Put twelve Seville oranges in water, and change them three days. Boil -them in the least water till tender: scoop out the pulp, and pick out -the kernels; then, in a marble mortar, beat the oranges, then the pulp -separately; and, after, both together. To every pound put a pound and a -half of sugar, pounded and sifted, and beat to a paste. Keep it in small -gallipots, and cover with white paper dipped in brandy. - - - _To dry Apricots in half._ - -Pare thin and halve four pounds of apricots, weighing them after: put -them in a dish, and strew among them three pounds of sugar in the finest -powder. When it melts, set the fruit over a stove to do very gently. As -each piece becomes tender, take it out and put it into a China bowl. -When all are done, and the boiling heat a little abated, pour the syrup -over them. In a day or two remove the syrup, leaving only a little in -each half. In a day or two more turn them; and so continue daily till -quite dry, in the sun or a warm place. Keep in boxes with layers of -paper. - - - _To preserve Apricots in Jelly._ - -Pare the fruit _very_ thin, and stone it. Weigh an equal quantity of -sugar in fine powder and strew over it. Next day boil very gently till -they are clear: move them into a bowl, and pour the liquor over. The -following day pour the liquor to a quart of codlin liquor, made by -boiling and straining, and a pound of fine sugar: let it boil quickly -till it will jelly: put the fruit into it, and give one boil; and having -skimmed well, put into small pots. - - - _Applejelly for the above, or any sort of Sweetmeats._ - -Let apples be pared, quartered, and cored: put them into a stewpan with -as much water as will cover them: boil as fast as possible. When the -fruit is all in a mash, add a quart of water: boil half an hour more, -and run through a jellybag. - -If in summer, codlins are best: in September, golden rennets or winter -pippins. - - - _To preserve green Apricots._ - -Lay vine or apricot leaves at the bottom of your pan, then fruit, and so -alternately till full, the upper layer being thick with leaves; then -fill with spring water, and cover down, that no steam may come out. Set -the pan at a distance from the fire, that in four or five hours they may -be only soft, but not cracked. Make a thin syrup of some of the water, -and drain the fruit. When both are cold, put the fruit into the pan and -the syrup to it; put the pan at a proper distance on the fire till the -apricots green, but on no account boil or crack: remove them very -carefully into a pan with the syrup for two or three days, then pour off -as much of it as will be necessary, and boil with more sugar to make a -rich syrup, and put a little sliced ginger into it. When cold, and the -thin syrup has all been drained from the fruit, pour the thick over it. - - - _To preserve Strawberries whole._ - -Get the finest scarlets before they are too ripe, with their stalks kept -on; lay them separately on a China dish; beat and sift twice their -weight of doubly refined sugar over them; then bruise a few ripe -strawberries, with their weight of doubly refined sugar, in a China -bason, cover it close, and set it in a saucepan of boiling water which -will just hold it till the juice comes out and becomes thick; strain it -through muslin into a sweetmeat pan, boil it up and skim it. When cold, -put in the strawberries, set them over a stove till milk warm, then take -the pan off till they are cold, set them on again, and let them become -rather hotter, and so for several times till they become clear, but the -hottest degree must not come to a boil. When cold, put them into -glasses, and pour the syrup over. - - - _Another way._ - -Take equal weight of the fruit and doubly refined sugar, lay the former -in a large dish, and sprinkle half the sugar in fine powder over; give a -gentle shake to the dish, that the sugar may touch the under side of the -fruit. Next day make a thin syrup with the remainder of the sugar, and -instead of water, allow one pint of red currant juice to every three -pounds of strawberries; in this simmer them until sufficiently jellied. -Choose the largest scarlets, or others, when not dead ripe. - - - _Cherry Jam._ - -To twelve pounds of Kentish or Duke cherries, when ripe, weigh one pound -of sugar; break the stones of part and blanch them; then put them to the -fruits and sugar, and boil all gently till the jam come clear from the -pan. Pour it into China plates to come up dry to table. Keep in boxes -with white paper between. - - - _Orange Marmalade._ - -Rasp the oranges, cut out the pulp, then boil the rinds very tender, and -beat fine in a marble mortar. Boil three pounds of loaf sugar in a pint -of water, skim it, and add a pound of the rind; boil fast till the syrup -is very thick, but stir it carefully; then put a pint of the pulp and -juice, the seeds having been removed, and a pint of apple liquor; boil -all gently until well jellied, which it will be in about half an hour. -Put it into small pots. - -Lemon marmalade do in the same way. - - - _Quince Marmalade._ - -Pare and quarter quinces, weigh an equal quantity of sugar; to four -pounds of the latter put a quart of water, boil, and skim, and keep -ready against four pounds of quinces are tolerably tender by the -following mode: lay them into a stonejar, with a teacup of water at the -bottom, and pack them with a little sugar strewed between; cover the jar -close, and set it on a stove or cool oven, and let them soften till the -colour become red, then pour the fruit, syrup, and a quart of quince -juice into a preserving pan, and boil all together till the marmalade be -completed, breaking the lumps of fruit with the preserving ladle. - -This fruit is so hard, that if it be not done as above, it requires a -great deal of time. - -N. B. Stewing quinces in a jar, and then squeezing them through a -cheesecloth, is the best method of obtaining the juice to add as above. - - - _To dry Cherries; the best way._ - -To every five pounds of cherries stoned, weigh one of sugar doubly -refined. Put the fruit into the preservingpan with _very_ little water, -both made scalding hot; take the fruit immediately out and dry them, put -them into the pan again, strewing the sugar between each layer of -cherries; let it stand to melt, then set the pan on the fire, and make -it scalding hot as before; take it off, and repeat this thrice with the -sugar. Drain them from the syrup, and lay them singly to dry on dishes, -in the sun or on a stove. When dry, put them into a sieve, dip it into a -pan of cold water, and draw it instantly out again, and pour them on a -fine soft cloth; dry them, and set them once more in the hot sun, or on -a stove. Keep them in a box, with layers of white paper, in a dry place. - -This way is the best to give plumpness to the fruit, as well as colour -and flavour. - -_Observe._ When any sweetmeats are directed to be dried in the sun or in -a stove, it will be best in private families, where there is not a -regular stove for the purpose, to place them in the sun on flag stones, -which reflect the heat, and place a garden glass over them to keep -insects off: or if put in an oven, to take care not to let it be too -warm, and watch that they do properly and slowly. - - - _Gooseberry Jam, for Tarts._ - -Put twelve pounds of the red hairy gooseberries, when ripe and gathered -in dry weather, into a preservingpan with a pint of currantjuice, drawn -as for jelly; let them boil pretty quick, and beat them with the spoon; -when they begin to break, put to them six pounds of pure white Lisbon -sugar, and simmer to a jam. It requires long boiling, or will not keep; -but is an excellent and reasonable thing for tarts or puffs. Look at it -in two or three days, and if the syrup and fruit separate, the whole -must be boiled longer. Be careful it does not burn to the bottom. - - - _Another._ - -Gather your gooseberries (the clear white or green sort) when ripe; top -and tail, and weigh them: a pound to three quarters of a pound of fine -sugar, and half a pint of water; boil and skim the sugar and water, then -put the fruit and boil gently till clear; then break and put into small -pots. - - - _White Gooseberry Jam._ - -Gather the finest white gooseberries, or green if you choose, when just -ripe; top and tail them. To each pound put three quarters of a pound of -fine sugar, and half a pint of water. Boil and clarify the sugar in the -water as directed under that article, then add the fruit; simmer gently -till clear, then break it, and in a few minutes put the jam into small -pots. - - - _Barberries for Tartlets._ - -Pick barberries, that have no stones, from the stalks, and to every -pound weigh three quarters of a pound of lump sugar. Put the fruit into -a stonejar, and either set it on a hot hearth or in a saucepan of water, -and let them simmer very slowly till soft; put them and the sugar into a -preservingpan, and boil them gently fifteen minutes. - -Use no metal but silver. - - - _Barberry Drops._ - -The black tops must be cut off, then roast the fruit before the fire, -till soft enough to pulp with a silver spoon through a sieve into a -China bason; then set the bason on a saucepan of water, the top of which -will just fit it, or on a hot hearth, and stir it till it grows thick. -When cold, put to every pint one pound and a half of sugar, the finest -doubly refined, pounded and sifted through a lawn sieve, which must be -covered with fine linen, to prevent its wasting while sifting. Beat the -sugar and juice together three hours and a half if a large quantity, but -two and a half for less: then drop it on sheets of white thick paper, -the size of the drops sold in the shops. - -Some fruit is not so sour, and then less sugar is necessary. To know if -there be enough, mix till well incorporated, and then drop: if it runs, -there is not enough sugar, and if it is too much it will be rough. A dry -room will suffice to dry them. No metal must touch the juice but the -point of a knife, just to take the drop off the end of the wooden spoon, -and then as little as possible. - - - _Ginger Drops, a good Stomachic._ - -Beat two ounces of fresh candied orange in a mortar, with a little -sugar, to a paste; then mix one ounce of powder of white ginger with one -pound of loaf sugar. Wet the sugar with a little water, and boil -altogether to candy, and drop it on paper the size of mint drops. - - - _Peppermint Drops._ - -Pound and sift four ounces of doubly refined sugar, beat it with the -whites of two eggs till perfectly smooth; then add sixty drops of oil of -peppermint, beat it well, and drop on white paper, and dry at a distance -from the fire. - - - _Lemon Drops._ - -Grate three large lemons, with a large piece of doubly refined sugar; -then scrape the sugar into a plate, add half a teaspoonful of flour, mix -well, and beat it into a light paste with the white of an egg. Drop it -upon white paper, and put them into a moderate oven on a tinplate. - - - _A beautiful Red, to stain Jellies, Ices or Cakes._ - -Boil fifteen grains of cochineal in the finest powder, with a drachm and -a half of cream of tartar, in half a pint of water, very slowly, half an -hour. Add in boiling a bit of alum the size of a pea. Or use beetroot -sliced, and some liquor poured over. - -For white, use almonds, finely powdered, with a little drop of water; or -use cream. - -For yellow, yelks of eggs, or a bit of saffron steeped in the liquor and -squeezed. - -For green, pound spinach leaves or beet leaves, express the juice, and -boil in a teacupful in a saucepan of water, to take off the rawness. - - - _Damson Cheese._ - -Bake or boil the fruit in a stonejar, in a saucepan of water, or on a -hot hearth. Pour off some of the juice, and to every two pounds of -fruit, weigh half a pound of sugar. Set the fruit over a fire in the -pan, let it boil quickly till it begins to look dry; take out the stones -and add the sugar, stir it well in, and simmer two hours slowly, then -boil it quickly half an hour, till the sides of the pan candy; pour the -jam then into potting pans or dishes, about an inch thick, so that it -may cut firm. If the skins be disliked, then the juice is not to be -taken out; but after the first process, the fruit is to be pulped -through a very coarse sieve with the juice, and managed as above. The -stones are to be cracked, or some of them, and the kernels boiled in the -jam. All the juice may be left in and boiled to evaporate, but do not -add the sugar until it has done so. The above looks well in shapes. - - - _Biscuit of Fruit._ - -To the pulp of any scalded fruit, put equal weight of sugar sifted, beat -it for two hours, then put it into little white paper forms: dry in a -cool oven, turn the next day, and in two or three days box them. - - -_Magnum Bonum Plums. Excellent as a Sweetmeat, or in Tarts, though very - bad to eat raw._ - -Prick them with a needle, to prevent bursting, simmer them very gently -in a thin syrup; put them in a China bowl, and when cold pour it over. -Let them lie three days; then make a syrup of three pounds of sugar to -five of fruit, with no more water than hangs to large lumps of the sugar -dipped quickly, and instantly brought out. Boil the plums in this fresh -syrup, after draining the first from them. Do them very gently till they -are clear, and the syrup adheres to them. Put them one by one into small -pots, and pour the liquor over. Those you may like to dry, keep a little -of the syrup for, longer in the pan, and boil it quickly, then give the -fruit one more warm: drain, and put them to dry on plates, in a cool -oven. These plums are apt to ferment, if not boiled in two syrups; the -former will sweeten pies, but will have too much acid to keep. You may -reserve part of it, and add a little sugar, to do those that are to dry, -for they will not require to be so sweet, as if kept wet, and will eat -very nicely if only boiled as much as those. Do not break them. One -parcel may be done after another, and save much sugar. - - - _To preserve Grapes in Brandy._ - -Put some close bunches, when ripe, but not over ready, into a jar: strew -over them half their weight in white sugarcandy pounded: prick each -grape once with a needle; fill up with brandy, and tie close. They look -beautifully in a dessert. - - - _Gooseberry Hops._ - -Of the largest green walnut kind, take and cut the bud end in four -quarters, leaving the stalk end whole: pick out the seeds, and with a -strong needle and thread, fasten five or six together, by running the -thread through the bottoms, till they are of the size of a hop. Lay -vineleaves at the bottom of a tin preservingpan: cover them with the -hops, then a layer of leaves, and so on; lay a good many on the top, -then fill the pan with water. Stop it so close down that no steam can -get out: set it by a slow fire till scalding hot; then take it off till -cold, and do so till on opening while cold, the gooseberries are of a -good green. Then drain them on sieves, and make a thin syrup of a pound -of sugar, to a pint of water, boil, and skim it well; when half cold, -put in the fruit, next day give it one boil; do this thrice. If the hops -are to be dried, which way they eat best, and look well, they may be set -to dry in a week: but if to be kept wet, make a syrup in the above -proportions, adding a slice of ginger in boiling; when skimmed and -clear, give the gooseberries one boil, and when cold, pour it over them. -If the first syrup be found too sour, a little sugar may be added and -boiled in it, before the hops that are for drying, have their last boil. - -The extra syrup will serve for pies, or go towards other sweetmeats. - - - _A Carmel Cover for Sweetmeats._ - -Dissolve eight ounces of double refined sugar in three or four spoonfuls -of water, and three or four drops of lemonjuice; then put it into a -copper untinned skellet; when it boils to be thick, dip the handle of a -spoon in it, and put that into a pintbason of water, squeeze the sugar -from the spoon into it, and so on till you have all the sugar. Take a -bit out of the water, and if it snaps, and is brittle when cold, it is -done enough; but only let it be three parts cold, when pour the water -from the sugar, and having a copper form oiled well, run the sugar on -it, in the manner of a maze, and when cold you may put it on the dish it -is to cover; but if on trial the sugar is not brittle, pour off the -water, and return it into the skellet and boil it again. It should look -thick like treacle, but of a bright light gold colour. - -It is a most elegant cover. - - - _Transparent Marmalade._ - -Cut the palest Seville oranges in quarters, take the pulp out, and put -it in a bason, pick out the seeds and skins. Let the outsides soak in -water with a little salt all night, then boil them in a good quantity of -spring water till tender; drain and cut them in very thin slices, and -put them to the pulp; and to every pound, a pound and a half of double -refined sugar beaten fine; boil them together twenty minutes, but be -careful not to break the slices. If not quite clear, simmer five or six -minutes longer. It must be stirred all the time very gently. - -When cold, put it into glasses. - - - _To preserve Oranges or Lemons in Jelly._ - -Cut a hole in the stalk part, the size of a shilling, and with a blunt -small knife scrape out the pulp quite clear without cutting the rind. -Tie each separately in muslin, and lay them in spring water two days, -changing twice a day; in the last boil them tender on a slow fire. -Observe that there is enough at first to allow for wasting, as they must -be covered to the last. To every pound of orange, weigh two pounds of -double refined sugar, and one pint of water; boil the two latter -together with the juice of the orange to a syrup, and clarify it, skim -well, and let it stand to be cold; then boil the fruit in the syrup half -an hour; if not clear, do this daily till they are done. - -Pare and core some green pippins, and boil in water till it tastes -strong of them; do not break them, only gently press them with the back -of a spoon. Strain the water through a jellybag till quite clear; then -to every pint put a pound of double refined sugar, the peel and juice of -a lemon, and boil to a strong syrup. Drain off the syrup from the fruit, -and turning the whole upwards in the jar, pour the applejelly over it. -The bits cut out must go through the same process with the fruit. Cover -with brandy paper. - - - _Orange Chips._ - -Cut oranges in halves, squeeze the juice through a sieve; soak the peel -in water, next day boil in the same till tender, drain them, and slice -the peels, put them to the juice, weigh as much sugar, and put all -together into a broad earthen dish, and put over the fire at a moderate -distance, often stirring till the chips candy; then set them in a cool -room to dry. They will not be so under three weeks. - - - _Orange Cakes._ - -Cut Seville oranges in pieces, take out the seeds and skins, save the -juice, and add to the meat of the fruit, after having beaten it quite -fine in a mortar, in the proportion of a pound to a pound and a half of -loaf sugar finely beaten first. When the paste is finely mixed, make it -into small cakes, and dry them on China plates in a hot room, and turn -them daily. Do not let them be too dry. - -They are excellent for gouty stomachs, or for travellers. - -The peels of China oranges, soaked a night, then drained and boiled up -in a syrup till enough to be tender, answer for common puddings -extremely well, and are of no value; whereas Seville are usually dear, -and sometimes cannot be had. - - - _To preserve Morella Cherries._ - -Gather them when full ripe, and perfectly dry, take off the stalks, and -prick them with a new needle to prevent bursting. Weigh to every pound, -one and a half of sugar, beat part, and strew over them; let them lie -all night; dissolve the rest in half a pint of currantjuice, set it over -the fire, and put in the cherries, and sugar that hangs about them, give -them a scald, then put them in a China bowl; next day give them another -scald, then take them carefully out, boil the syrup till it is thick, -and pour it on them; look at it in a day or two, and if too thin, boil -it more, but gently. - - - _To keep Lemonjuice._ - -Buy the fruit when cheap, keep it in a cool place until the colour -becomes very yellow: cut the peel off some, and roll them under your -hand to make them part with the juice more readily; others you may leave -unpared for grating, when the pulp shall be taken out and dried. Squeeze -the juice into a China bason, then strain it through some linen which -will not permit the least pulp to pass. Have ready some half and quarter -ounce phials perfectly dry: fill them with the juice so near to the top -as only to admit half a teaspoonful of sweet oil into each; or a little -more, if for larger bottles. Cork the bottles, and set them upright in a -cool place. - -When you want lemonjuice, open such a sized bottle as you shall use in -two or three days, wind some clean cotton round a skewer, and dipping it -in, the oil will be attracted; and when all shall be removed, the juice -will be as fine as when first bottled. - -The peels hang up till dry, then keep them from the dust. - - - - - _Ice Waters._ - - -Rub some fine sugar on lemon, or orange, to give the colour and flavour; -then squeeze the juice of either on its respective peel: add water and -sugar, to make a fine sherbet, and strain it before it be put into the -icepot. If orange, the greater proportion should be of the China juice, -and only a little of Seville, and a small bit of the peel grated by the -sugar. - - - _Currant, or Raspberry water Ice._ - -The juice of these, or any other sort of fruit, being gained by -squeezing, sweetened and mixed with water, will be ready for icing. - - - _Ice Creams._ - -Mix the juice of the fruits with as much sugar as will be wanted, before -you add cream, which should be of a middling richness. Under the article -of FRUITS is given a mode of preparing juice for ice. - - - _Brown Bread Ice._ - -Grate as fine as possible stale brown bread, soak a small proportion in -cream two or three hours, sweeten and ice it. - - - _To make the Ice._ - -Get a few pounds of ice, break it almost to powder, throw a large -handful and a half of salt among it. You must prepare it in a part of -the house where as little of the warm air comes as you can possibly -contrive. The ice and salt being in a bucket, put your cream into an ice -pot, and cover it; immerse it in the ice, and draw that round the pot, -so as to touch every possible part. In a few minutes put a spatula or -spoon in, and stir it well, removing the parts that ice round the edges -to the centre. If the icecream or water be in a form, shut the bottom -close, and move the whole in the ice, as you cannot use a spoon to that -without danger of waste. - -_Note._ When any fluid tends towards cold, the moving it quickly -accelerates the cold; and likewise, when any fluid is tending to heat, -stirring it will facilitate its boiling. - - - _Icing for Tarts._ - -Beat the yelk of an egg and some melted butter well together, wash the -tarts with a feather, and sift sugar over as you put them in the oven. -Or beat white of egg: wash the paste, and sift white sugar. - - - _Icing for Cakes._ - -For a large one, beat and sift eight ounces of fine sugar, put into a -mortar with four spoonfuls of rose water, and the whites of two eggs -beaten and strained, whisk it well, and when the cake is almost cold, -dip a feather in the icing, and cover the cake well; set it in the oven -to harden, but do not let it stay to discolour. Put the cake in a dry -place. - - - - - CAKES. - - - _Observations on making and baking Cakes._ - -Currants should be very nicely washed, dried in a cloth, and then set -before the fire. If damp they will make cakes or puddings heavy. Before -they are added, a dust of dry flour should be thrown among them, and a -shake given to them, which causes the thing that they are put to, to be -lighter. - -Eggs should be very long beaten, whites and yelks apart, and always -strained. - -Sugar should be rubbed to a powder on a clean board, and sifted through -a very fine hair or lawn sieve. - -Lemonpeel should be pared very thin, and with a little sugar beaten in a -marble mortar to a paste, and then mixed with a little wine, or cream, -so as to divide easily among the other ingredients. - -After all the articles are put into the pan, they should be thoroughly -and long beaten, as the lightness of the cake depends much on their -being well incorporated. - -Whether black or white plumcakes, they require less butter and eggs for -having yeast, and eat equally light and rich. If the leaven be only of -flour, milk and water, and yeast, it becomes more tough, and is less -easily divided, and if the butter be first put with those ingredients, -and the dough afterwards set to rise by the fire. - -The heat of the oven is of great importance for cakes, especially those -that are large. If not pretty quick, the batter will not rise. Should -you fear its catching by being two quick, put some paper over the cake -to prevent its being burnt. If not long enough lighted to have a body of -heat, or it is become slack, the cake will be heavy. To know when it is -soaked, take a broad bladed knife that is very bright, and plunge into -the very centre, draw it instantly out, and if the least stickiness -adheres, put the cake immediately in, and shut up the oven. - -If the heat was sufficient to raise, but not to soak, I have with great -success had fresh fuel quickly put in, and kept the cakes hot till the -oven was fit to finish the soaking, and they turned out extremely well. -But those who are employed, ought to be particularly careful that no -mistakes occur from negligence when large cakes are to be baked. - - - _Plumcake._ - -Mix thoroughly a quarter of a peck of fine flour, well dried with a -pound of dry and sifted loaf sugar, three pounds of currants washed, and -very dry, half a pound of raisins stoned and chopped, a quarter of an -ounce of mace and cloves, twenty Jamaica peppers, a grated nutmeg, the -peel of a lemon cut as fine as possible, and half a pound of almonds -blanched, and beaten with orange flour water. Melt two pounds of butter -in a pint and a quarter of cream, but not hot, put to it a pint of sweet -wine, a glass of brandy, the whites and yelks of twelve eggs beaten -apart, and half a pint of good yeast. Strain this liquid by degrees into -the dry ingredients, beating them together a full hour, then butter the -hoop, or pan, and bake it. As you put the batter into the hoop, or pan, -throw in plenty of citron, lemon, and orange candy. - -If you ice the cake, take half a pound of double refined sugar sifted, -and put a little with the white of an egg, beat it well, and by degrees -pour in the remainder. It must be whisked near an hour, with the -addition of a little orange flour water, but mind not to put much. When -the cake is done, pour the icing over, and return it to the oven for -fifteen minutes; but if the oven be warm, keep it near the mouth, and -the door open; lest the colour be spoiled. - - - _Another Plumcake._ - -Flour dried, and currants washed and picked, four pounds, sugar pounded -and sifted one pound and a half, six orange, lemon, and citron peels, -cut in slices; mix these. - -Beat ten eggs, yelks and whites separately; then melt a pound and a half -of butter in a pint of cream; when lukewarm put it to half a pint of ale -yeast, near half a pint of sweet wine, and the eggs; then strain the -liquid to the dry ingredients, beat them well, and add of cloves, mace, -cinnamon and nutmeg, half an ounce each. Butter the pan, and put it into -a quick oven. Three hours will bake it. - - - _A very fine Cake._ - -Wash two pounds and a half of fresh butter in water first, and then in -rosewater; beat the butter to a cream: beat twenty eggs, yelk and whites -separately, half an hour each. Have ready two pounds and a half of the -finest flour, well dried, and kept hot, likewise a pound and a half of -sugar pounded and sifted, one ounce of spice in finest powder, three -pounds of currants nicely cleaned and dry, half a pound of almonds -blanched, and three quarters of a pound of sweetmeats cut not too thin. -Let all be kept by the fire, mix all the dry ingredients; pour the eggs -strained to the butter; mix half a pint of sweet wine with a large glass -of brandy, pour it to the butter and eggs, mix well, then have all the -dry things put in by degrees; beat them very thoroughly; you can hardly -do it too much. Having half a pound of stoned jar raisins chopped as -fine as possible, mix them carefully, so that there shall be no lumps. -Beat the ingredients together a full hour at least. Have a hoop well -buttered, or if you have none, a tin, or copper cakepan; take a white -paper, doubled and buttered, and put in the pan round the edge, if the -cake batter fill it more than three parts, for space should be allowed -for rising. Bake in a quick oven. It will require three hours. - - - _An excellent and less expensive Cake._ - -Rub two pounds of dry fine flour, with one of butter, washed in plain -and rosewater, mix it with three spoonfuls of yeast in a little warm -milk and water. Set it to rise an hour and a half before the fire, then -beat into it two pounds of currants, one pound of sugar sifted, four -ounces of almonds, six ounces of stoned raisins, chopped fine, half a -nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, and a few cloves, the peel of a lemon -chopped as fine as possible, a glass of wine, ditto of brandy, twelve -yelks and whites of eggs beat separately, and long; orange, citron, and -lemon. Beat exceedingly well, and butter the pan. A quick oven. - - - _A very good Common Cake._ - -Rub eight ounces of butter into two pounds of dried flour, mix it with -three spoonfuls of yeast that is not bitter, to a paste. Let it rise an -hour and a half; then mix in the yelks and whites of six eggs beaten -apart; one pound of sugar, some milk to make it a proper thickness, -(about a pint will be sufficient,) a glass of sweet wine, the rind of a -lemon, and a teaspoonful of ginger. Add either a pound and a half of -currants, or some carraways, and beat well. - - - _A cheap Seed Cake._ - -Mix a quarter of a peck of flour with half a pound of sugar, a quarter -of an ounce of allspice, and a little ginger; melt three quarters of a -pound of butter with half a pint of milk; when just warm, put to it a -quarter of a pint of yeast, and work up to a good dough. Let it stand -before the fire a few minutes before it goes to the oven; add seeds, or -currants, and bake an hour and a half. - - - _Another._ - -Mix a pound and a half of flour, and a pound of common lump sugar, eight -eggs beaten separately, an ounce of seeds, two spoonfuls of yeast, and -the same of milk and water. - -_Note._ Milk alone causes cake and bread soon to dry. - - - _Common Bread Cake._ - -Take the quantity of a quartern loaf from the dough when making white -bread, and knead well into it two ounces of butter, two of Lisbon sugar, -and eight of currants. Warm the butter in a teacupful of good milk. - -By the addition of an ounce of butter, or sugar, or an egg or two, you -may make the cake better. A teacupful of raw cream improves it much. It -is best to bake it in a pan, rather than as a loaf, the outside being -less hard. - - - _A good Pound Cake._ - -Beat a pound of butter to a cream, and mix with it the whites and yelks -of eight eggs beaten apart. Have ready warm by the fire, a pound of -flour, and the same of sifted sugar, mix them and a few cloves, a little -nutmeg and cinnamon in fine powder together; then by degrees work the -dry ingredients into the butter and eggs. When well beaten, add a glass -of wine, and some carraways. It must be beaten a full hour. Butter a -pan, and bake it a full hour in a quick oven. - -The above proportions, leaving out four ounces of the butter, and the -same of sugar, make a less luscious cake. - - - _Queen Cakes._ - -Mix a pound of dried flour, the same of sifted sugar, and of washed -clean currants. Wash a pound of butter in rosewater, beat it well, then -mix with it eight eggs, yelks and whites beaten separately, and put in -the dry ingredients by degrees; beat the whole an hour; butter little -tins, teacups, or saucers, and bake the batter in, filling only half. -Sift a little fine sugar over just as you put into the oven. - - - _Queen Cakes, another way._ - -Beat eight ounces of butter, and mix with two well beaten eggs, -strained; mix eight ounces of dried flour, and the same of lump sugar, -and the grated rind of a lemon, then add the whole together, and beat -full half an hour with a silver spoon. Butter small pattypans, half -fill, and bake twenty minutes in a quick oven. - - - _A Common Cake._ - -Mix three quarters of a pound of flour with half a pound of butter, four -ounces of sugar, four eggs, half an ounce of carraways, and a glass of -raisin wine. Beat it well, and bake it in a quick oven. Fine Lisbon -sugar will do. - - - _Shrewsbury Cakes._ - -Sift one pound of sugar, some pounded cinnamon, and a nutmeg grated, -into three pounds of flour, the finest sort; add a little rosewater to -three eggs, well beaten, and mix these with the flour, &c. then pour -into it as much butter melted as will make it a good thickness to roll -out. - -Mould it well, and roll thin, and cut it into such shapes as you like. - - - _Little white Cakes._ - -Dry half a pound of flour, rub into it a very little pounded sugar, one -ounce of butter, one egg, a few carraways, and as much milk and water as -to make a paste; roll it thin, and cut it with the top of a cannister or -glass. Bake fifteen minutes on tin plates. - - - _Tea Cakes._ - -Rub fine four ounces of butter into eight ounces of flour; mix eight -ounces of currants, and six of fine Lisbon sugar, two yelks and one -white of eggs, and a spoonful of brandy. Roll the paste the thickness of -an Oliver biscuit, and cut with a wineglass. You may beat the other -white, and wash over them; and either dust sugar, or not, as you like. - - - _Little short Cakes._ - -Rub into a pound of dried flour four ounces of butter, four ounces of -white powder sugar, one egg, and a spoonful or two of thin cream to make -into a paste. When mixed, put currants into one half, and carraways into -the rest. Cut them as before, and bake on tins. - - - _Very good common Plum Cakes._ - -Mix five ounces of butter in three pounds of dry flour, and five ounces -of fine Lisbon sugar; add six ounces of currants, washed and dried, and -some pimento finely powdered. Put three spoonfuls of yeast into a -Winchester pint of new milk warmed, and mix into a light dough with the -above. Make it into twelve cakes, and bake on a floured tin half an -hour. - - - _Benton Tea Cakes._ - -Mix a paste of flour, a little bit of butter, and milk; roll as thin as -possible, and bake on a back-stone over the fire, or on a hot hearth. - - - _Another sort, as Biscuit._ - -Rub into a pound of flour six ounces of butter, and three large -spoonfuls of yeast, and make into a paste, with a sufficient quantity of -new milk; make into biscuit, and prick them with a clean fork. - - - _Another sort._ - -Melt six or seven ounces of butter with a sufficiency of new milk warmed -to make seven pounds of flour into a stiff paste: roll thin, and make -into biscuit. - - - _Hard Biscuit._ - -Warm two ounces of butter in as much skimmed milk as will make a pound -of flour into a very stiff paste, beat it with a rolling pin, and work -it very smooth. Roll it thin, and cut it into round biscuit; prick them -full of holes with a fork. About six minutes will bake them. - - - _Flat Cakes, that will keep long in the house good._ - -Mix two pounds of flour, one pound of sugar, and one ounce of carraways, -with four or five eggs, and a few spoonfuls of water to make a stiff -paste; roll it thin, and cut into any shape. Bake on tins lightly -floured. While baking, boil a pound of sugar in a pint of water to a -thin syrup; while both are hot, dip each cake into it, and put them on -tins into the oven to dry for a short time; and when the oven is cooler -still, return them there again, and let them stay four or five hours. - - - _Plain and very crisp Biscuit._ - -Make a pound of flour, the yelk of an egg, and some milk, into a very -stiff paste; beat it well, and knead till quite smooth; roll very thin, -and cut into biscuit. Bake them in a slow oven till quite dry and crisp. - - - _Little Plumcakes, to keep long._ - -Dry one pound of flour, and mix with six ounces of finely pounded sugar, -beat six ounces of butter to a cream, and add to three eggs, well -beaten, half a pound of currants washed, and nicely dried, and the flour -and sugar; beat all for some time, then dredge flour on tin plates, and -drop the batter on them the size of a walnut. If properly mixed, it will -be a stiff paste. Bake in a brisk oven. - - - _Rusks._ - -Beat seven eggs well, and mix with half a pint of new milk, in which has -been melted four ounces of butter; add to it a quarter of a pint of -yeast, and three ounces of sugar, and put them, by degrees, into as much -flour as will make a _very_ light paste, rather like a batter, and let -it rise before the fire half an hour; then add some more flour to make -it a little stiffer, but not stiff. Work it well and divide it into -small loaves or cakes, about five or six inches wide and flatten them. -When baked and cold, slice them the thickness of rusks, and put them in -the oven to brown a little. - -_Note._ The cakes, when first baked, eat deliciously buttered for tea; -or with carraways to eat cold. - - - _A Biscuit Cake._ - -One pound of flour, five eggs well beaten and strained, eight ounces of -sugar, a little rose or orange flower water; beat the whole thoroughly, -and bake one hour. - - - _Cracknuts._ - -Mix eight ounces of flour, and eight ounces of sugar; melt four ounces -of butter in two spoonfuls of raisin wine; then with four eggs beaten -and strained, make into a paste; add carraways, roll out as thin as -paper, cut with the top of a glass, wash with the white of an egg, and -dust sugar over. - - - _Water Cakes._ - -Dry three pounds of fine flour, and rub into it one pound of sugar -sifted, one pound of butter, and one ounce of carraway seed. Make into a -paste with three quarters of a pint of boiling new milk, roll very thin, -and cut into the size you choose; punch full of holes, and bake on tin -plates in a cool oven. - - - _Cracknels._ - -Mix with a quart of flour half a nutmeg grated, the yelks of four eggs -beaten with four spoonfuls of rosewater, into a stiff paste, with cold -water; then roll in a pound of butter, and make them into a cracknel -shape; put them into a kettle of boiling water, and boil them till they -swim, then take out, and put them into cold water; when hardened, lay -them out to dry, and bake them on tin plates. - - - _Rice Cake._ - -Mix ten ounces of ground rice, three ounces of flour, eight ounces of -pounded sugar; then sift by degrees into eight yelks and six whites of -eggs, and the peel of a lemon shred so fine that it is quite mashed. Mix -the whole well in a tin stewpan over a very slow fire with a whisk, then -put it immediately into the oven in the same, and bake forty minutes. - - - _Another Rice Cake._ - -Beat twelve yelks and six whites of eggs with the peels of two lemons -grated. Mix one pound of flour of rice, eight ounces of flour, and one -pound of sugar pounded and sifted; then beat it well with the eggs by -degrees, for an hour, with a wooden spoon. Butter a pan well; and put it -in at the oven mouth. - -A gentle oven will bake it in an hour and a half. - - - _Sponge Cake._ - -Weigh ten eggs, and their weight in very fine sugar, and that of six in -flour; beat the yelks with the flour, and the whites alone to a very -stiff froth; then by degrees mix the whites and the flour with the other -ingredients, and beat them well half an hour. Bake in a quick oven an -hour. - - - _Another, without Butter._ - -Dry one pound of flour, and one and a quarter of sugar; beat seven eggs, -yelks and whites apart; grate a lemon, and with a spoonful of brandy, -beat the whole together with your hand for an hour. Bake in a buttered -pan, in a quick oven. - -Sweetmeats may be added, if approved. - - - _Macaroons._ - -Blanch four ounces of almonds, and pound with four spoonfuls of orange -flower water; whisk the white of four eggs to a froth, then mix it, and -a pound of sugar, sifted, with the almonds to a paste; and laying a -sheet of wafer paper on a tin, put it on in different little cakes the -shape of macaroons. - - - _Wafers._ - -Dry the flour well which you intend to use, mix a little pounded sugar -and finely pounded mace with it, then make it into a thick batter with -cream; butter the wafer irons, let them be hot, put a teaspoonful of the -batter into them, so bake them carefully, and roll them off the iron -with a stick. - - - _Tunbridge Cakes._ - -Rub six ounces of butter quite fine into a pound of flour, then mix six -ounces of sugar, beat and strain two eggs, and make with the above into -a paste. Roll it very thin, and cut with the top of a glass; prick them -with a fork, and cover with carraways, or wash with the white of an egg, -and dust a little white sugar over. - - - _Gingerbread._ - -Mix with two pounds of flour half a pound of treacle, three quarters of -an ounce of carraways, one ounce of ginger finely sifted, and ten ounces -of butter. - -Roll the paste into what form you please, and bake on tins. - -If you like sweetmeats, add orange candied; it may be added in small -bits. - - - _Another sort._ - -To three quarters of a pound of treacle beat one egg strained; mix four -ounces of brown sugar, half an ounce of ginger sifted, of cloves, mace, -allspice, and nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce, beaten as fine as possible; -coriander and carraway seeds, each a quarter of an ounce; melt one pound -of butter, and mix with the above; and add as much flour as will knead -into a pretty stiff paste; then roll it out, and cut into cakes. - -Bake on tin plates in a quick oven. A little time will bake them. - -Of some, drops may be made. - - - _To make a good Gingerbread, without Butter._ - -Mix two pounds of treacle, of orange, lemon, citron, and candied ginger, -each four ounces, all thinly sliced, one ounce of coriander seeds, one -ounce of carraways, and one ounce of beaten ginger, in as much flour as -will make a soft paste; lay it in cakes on tin plates, and bake it in a -quick oven. Keep it dry in a covered earthen vessel, and it will be good -for some months. - -_Note._ If cake or biscuit be kept in paper or a drawer, the taste will -be disagreeable. A pan and cover, or tureen, will preserve them long and -moist. Or, if to be crisp, laying them before the fire will make them -so. - - - _A good plain Bun, that may be eaten with or without toasting and - Butter._ - -Rub four ounces of butter into two pounds of flour, four ounces of -sugar, a nutmeg, or not, as you like, a few Jamaica peppers, a dessert -spoonful of carraways; put a spoonful or two of cream into a cup of -yeast, and as much good milk as will make the above into a light paste. -Set it to rise by a fire till the oven be ready. They will quickly bake -on tins. - - - _Richer Buns._ - -Mix one pound and a half of dried flour, with half a pound of sugar; -melt a pound and two ounces of butter in a little warm water; add six -spoonfuls of rosewater, and knead the above into a light dough, with -half a pint of yeast; then mix five ounces of carraway comfits in, and -put some on them. - - - _Muffins._ - -Mix two pounds of flour with two eggs, two ounces of butter melted in a -pint of milk, and four or five spoonfuls of yeast; beat it thoroughly, -and set it to rise two or three hours. Bake on a hot hearth in flat -cakes. When done on one side turn them. - -_Note._ Muffins, rolls, or bread, if stale, may be made to taste new, by -dipping in cold water, and toasting or heating in an oven, or Dutch -oven, till the outside be crimp. - - - _French Rolls._ - -Rub an ounce of butter into a pound of flour, mix one egg beaten, a -little yeast that is not bitter, and as much milk as will make a dough -of a middling stiffness. Beat it well, but do not knead; let it rise, -and bake on tins. - - - _Brentford Rolls._ - -Mix with two pounds of flour a little salt, two ounces of sifted sugar, -four ounces of butter, and two eggs beaten with two spoonfuls of yeast, -and about a pint of milk. Knead the dough well, and set it to rise -before the fire. Make twelve rolls, butter tin plates, and set them -before the fire to rise till they become a proper size; then bake half -an hour. - - - _Excellent Rolls._ - -Warm one ounce of butter in half a pint of milk, put to it a spoonful -and half of yeast of small beer, and a little salt. Put two pounds of -flour into a pan, and mix in the above. Let it rise an hour; knead it -well; and make into seven rolls, and bake in a quick oven. - -If made in cakes three inches thick, sliced and buttered, they resemble -Sally Lumm’s as made at Bath. - -The foregoing receipt, with the addition of a little saffron, boiled in -half a teacupful of milk, makes remarkably good - - _Saffron cakes, to eat hot with butter._ - - - _Potatoe Butter._ - -Boil three pounds of potatoes, bruise and work them with two ounces of -butter, and as much milk as will make them pass through a colander. Take -half or three quarters of a pint of yeast, and half a pint of warm -water, mix with the potatoes, then pour the whole upon five pounds of -flour, and add some salt. Knead it well; if not of a proper consistence, -put a little more milk and water warm. Let it stand before the fire an -hour to rise. Work it well, and make into rolls. Bake about half an hour -in an oven not quite so hot as for bread. - -They eat well toasted and buttered. - - - _Yorkshire Cake._ - -Take two pounds of flour, and mix with it four ounces of butter melted -in a pint of good milk, three spoonfuls of yeast, and two eggs; beat all -well together, and let it rise; then knead it, and make into cakes; let -them rise on tins before you bake, which do in a slow oven. - -Another sort is made as above, leaving out the butter. - -The first sort is shorter; the last lighter. - - - - - _French Bread._ - - -With a quarter of a peck of fine flour mix the yelks of three and whites -of two eggs, beaten and strained, a little salt, half a pint of good -yeast that is not bitter, and as much milk, made a little warm, as will -work into a thin light dough. Stir it about, but do not knead it. Have -ready three quart wooden dishes, divide the dough among them, set to -rise, then turn them out into the oven, which must be quick. Rasp when -done. - - - - - _To make Yeast._ - - -Thicken two quarts of water, with fine flour about three spoonfuls; boil -half an hour, sweeten with near half a pound of brown sugar; when near -cold, put into it four spoonfuls of fresh yeast in a jug, shake it well -together, and let stand one day to ferment near the fire, without being -covered. There will be a thin liquor on the top, which must be poured -off, shake the remainder, and cork it up for use. Take always four -spoonfuls of the old to ferment the next quantity, keeping it always in -succession. - -An half peck loaf will require about a gill. - - - _Another way._ - -Boil one pound of potatoes to a mash, when half cold add a cupful of -yeast, and mix it well. It will be ready for use in two or three hours, -and keeps well. - -Use a double quantity of this to what you do of beer yeast. - -To take off the bitter of yeast, put bran into a sieve, and pour it -through. - - - _To preserve Yeast._ - -When you have plenty of yeast begin to save it in the following manner; -whisk it until it becomes thin, then get a large wooden dish, wash it -very nicely, and when quite dry, lay a layer of yeast over the inside -with a soft brush; let it dry, then put another layer in the same -manner, and so do until you have a sufficient quantity, observing that -each coat dry thoroughly before another be added. It may be put on two -or three inches thick, and will keep several months; when to be used cut -a piece out; stir it in warm water. - -If to be used for brewing, keep it by dipping large handfuls of birch -tied together; and when dry, repeat the dipping once. You may thus do as -many as you please; but take care that no dust comes to them, or the -vessel in which it has been prepared as before. When the wort be set to -work, throw into it one of these bunches, and it will do as well as with -fresh yeast; but if mixed with a small quantity first, and then added to -the whole, it will work sooner. - - - - - _To pot Cheese._ - - -Cut and pound four ounces of Cheshire cheese, one ounce and a half of -fine butter, a teaspoonful of white pounded sugar, a little bit of mace, -and a glass of white wine. Press it down in a deep pot. - - - _To roast Cheese, to come up after dinner._ - -Grate three ounces of fat Cheshire cheese, mix it with the yelks of two -eggs, four ounces of grated bread, and four ounces of butter, beat the -whole well in a mortar, with a teaspoonful of mustard, and a little salt -and pepper. Toast some bread, lay the paste as above thick upon it, put -it into a Dutch oven, covered with a dish till hot through, remove the -dish, and let the cheese brown a _little_. Serve as hot as possible. - - - - - _To poach Eggs._ - - -Set a stewpan of water on the fire; when boiling, slip an egg, -previously broken into a cup, into the water; when the white looks done -enough, slide an egg slice under the egg, and lay it on toast and -butter, or spinach. As soon as enough are done, serve hot. - - * * * * * - -The servants of each country are generally acquainted with the best mode -of managing the butter and cheese of that country; but the following -hints may not be unacceptable to give information to the Mistress. - - - - - DAIRY. - - -The greatest possible attention must be paid to cleanliness. All the -utensils must be daily scalded and brushed, washed in plenty of cold -water, dried with clean cloths, and turned up in the air. - -The dairy should be kept perfectly clean and cool. - -In milking, if the cows be not left perfectly dry, the quantity will be -decreased. The quantity depends on the goodness of different cows, on -the pasture, and on the length of time from calving. A middling cow -gives a pound of butter a day for five or six weeks, and sometimes -longer. When the milk decreases, a change even to a worse pasture will -effect an alteration; and where water is within reach of the animals, it -is of great consequence to the milk. - -The chief of the cows should come in the end of March, or the beginning -of April, and one the end of September; then the family will be supplied -with milk in the winter. - -When a calf is to be reared, it should be taken from the cow in a week -at furthest, or it will cause great trouble in rearing, because it will -be difficult to make it take milk in a pan. The calf should be taken -from the cow in the morning, and kept without food till next morning, -when being hungry it will take it without much trouble. Skimmed milk -made as warm as new, is to be given twice a day in such quantities as it -shall require and if milk run short, a fine smooth gruel mixed with it -will do very well. This is to be continued till the calf be taken out to -grass, which at first will be only by day, then milk must be given when -housed in the evening. - - - _To scald Cream._ - -In winter the milk stands twenty four hours before scalded; in the -summer twelve. The milkpan is to be put on a hot hearth, if you have -one, or if not, into a brass kettle of water, of a size to receive the -pan. It must remain on the fire till quite hot, but on no account boil, -or there will be a skin, instead of cream, upon the milk. You will know -when done enough by the undulations on the surface, and looking quite -thick. The time required to scald cream depends on the size of the pan -and the heat of the fire; the slower the better. Remove the pan into the -dairy when done, and skim it next day. - -Of cream thus prepared, the butter is usually made in Devonshire, &c. - - - _Buttermilk._ - -If made of sweet cream, is a delicious and most wholesome food. Those -who can relish sour buttermilk, find it still more light; and it is -reckoned more beneficial in some cases. - - - _To cure Mawskins for Rennet._ - -Cut the calf’s stomach open, rub it well with salt, let it hang to drain -two days, then salt it well, and let it lie in that pickle a month or -more; then take it out, drain, and flour it, stretch it out with a -stick, and let it hang up to dry. - -A piece of this is to be soaked, and kept ready to turn the milk in -cheesemaking time. - -Some lands make cheese of a better quality than the butter produced on -them is. - -When the soil is poor, the cheese will want fat; to remedy which, after -pressing the whey from the curd, crumble it quite small, and work into -it a pound of fine fresh butter; then press, &c. as usual. - - - _Cream Cheese._ - -Put five quarts of strippings, that is, the last of the milk, into a -pan, with two spoonfuls of rennet. When the curd is come, strike it down -two or three times with the skimming dish just to break it. Let it stand -two hours, then spread a cheesecloth on a sieve, put the curd on it, and -let the whey drain; break the curd a little with your hand, and put it -into a vat with a two pound weight upon it. Let it stand twelve hours, -take it out, and bind a fillet round. Turn every day till dry, from one -board to another; cover them with nettles, or clean dockleaves, and put -between two pewter plates to ripen. If the weather be warm, it will be -ready in three weeks. - - - _Another._ - -Have ready a kettle of boiling water, put five quarts of new milk into a -pan, and _five pints_ of cold water, and _five_ of hot; when of a proper -heat, put in as much rennet as will bring it in twenty minutes, likewise -a bit of sugar. When come, strike the skimmer three or four times down, -and leave it on the curd. In an hour or two lade it into the vat without -touching it; put a two pound weight on it when the whey has run from it, -and the vat is full. - - - _Another sort._ - -Put as much salt to three pints of raw cream as shall season it; stir it -well, and pour it into a sieve in which you have folded a cheesecloth -three or four times, and laid at the bottom. When it hardens, cover it -with nettles on a pewter plate. - - - _Rush Cream Cheese._ - -To a quart of fresh cream, put a pint of new milk warm enough to make -the cream a proper warmth, a bit of sugar and a little rennet. - -Set near the fire till the curd comes, fill a vat made in the form of a -brick, of wheat straw or rushes sewed together. Have ready a square of -straw, or rushes sewed flat to rest the vat on, and another to cover it; -the vat being open at top and bottom. Next day take it out, and change -it as above to ripen. A half pound weight will be sufficient to put on -it. - - - _Another way._ - -Take a pint of very thick sour cream from the top of the pan for -gathering for butter, lay a napkin on two plates, and pour half into -each, let them stand twelve hours, then put them on a fresh wet napkin -in one plate, and cover with the same; this do every twelve hours until -you find the cheese begins to look dry, then ripen it with nut leaves; -it will be ready in ten days. - -Fresh nettles, or two pewter plates, will ripen cream cheese very well. - - - - - _To brew very fine Welsh Ale._ - - -Pour forty two gallons of water hot, but not quite boiling, on four -bushels of malt, cover, and let it stand three hours. In the mean time -infuse a pound and a half of hops in a little hot water, or two pounds -if the ale is to be kept five or six months, and put water and hops into -the tub, and run the wort upon them, and boil them together three hours. -Strain off the hops, and keep for the small beer. Let the wort stand in -a high tub till cool enough to receive the yeast, of which put two -quarts of ale, or if you cannot get it, of small beer yeast. Mix it -thoroughly and often. When the wort has done working, the second or -third day, the yeast will sink rather than rise in the middle, remove it -then, and turn the ale as it works out, pour a quart in at a time, and -gently, to prevent the fermentation from continuing too long, which -weakens the liquor. Put a bit of paper over the bunghole two or three -days before stopping up. - - - _Strong Beer, or Ale._ - -Twelve bushels of malt to the hogshead for beer, eight for ale; for -either pour the whole quantity of water hot, but not boiling, on at -once, and let it infuse three hours close covered; mash it in the first -half hour, and let it stand the remainder of the time. Run it on the -hops previously infused in water; for strong beer three quarters of a -pound to a bushel, if for ale, half a pound. Boil them with the wort two -hours from the time it begins to boil. Cool a pailful to add three -quarts of yeast to, which will prepare it for putting to the rest when -ready next day; but if possible, put together the same night. Turn as -usual. Cover the bunghole with paper when the beer has done working; and -when it is to be stopped have ready a pound and a half of hops, dried -before the fire, put them into the bunghole, and fasten it up. - -Let it stand twelve months in casks, and twelve in bottles before it be -drank. It will keep, and be very fine, eight or ten years. It should be -brewed the beginning of March. - -Great care must be taken that bottles are perfectly prepared, and that -the corks are of the best sort. - -The ale will be ready in three or four months; and if the vent peg be -never removed, it will have spirit and strength to the very last. Allow -two gallons of water at first for waste. - -After the beer or ale is run from the grains, pour a hogshead and a half -for the twelve bushels, and a hogshead of water if eight were brewed; -mash, and let stand, and then boil, &c. Use some of the hops for this -table beer that were boiled for the strong beer. - - - _Excellent Table Beer._ - -On three bushels of malt pour of hot water the third of the quantity you -are to use, which is to be thirty nine gallons. Cover it warm half an -hour, then mash, and let it stand two hours and a half more, then set it -to drain. When dry, add half the remaining water, mash, and let it stand -half an hour, run that into another tub, and pour the rest of the water -on the malt, stir it well, and cover it, letting it infuse a full hour. -Run that off, and mix all together. A pound and a quarter of hops should -be infused in water, as in the former receipt, and be put into the tub -for the first running. - -Boil the hops with the wort an hour from the time it first boils. Strain -off, and cool. If the whole be not cool enough that day to add to the -yeast, a pail or two of wort may be prepared, and a quart of yeast put -to it over night. Before tunning, all the wort should be added together, -and thoroughly mixed with the lade pail. When the wort ceases to work, -put a bit of paper on the bunghole for three days, when it may be safely -fastened close. In three or four weeks the beer will be fit for -drinking. - -_Note._ Servants should be directed to put a cork into every barrel as -soon as the cock is taken out, the air causing casks to become musty. - - - _To refine Beer, Ale, Wine, or Cider._ - -Put two ounces of isinglass shavings to soak in a quart of the liquor -that you want to clear, beat it with a whisk every day till dissolved. -Draw off a third part of the cask, and mix the above with it; likewise a -quarter of an ounce of pearlashes, one ounce of salt of tartar calcined, -and one ounce of burnt alum powdered. Stir it well, then return the -liquor into the cask, and stir it with a clean stick. Stop it up, and in -a few days it will be fine. - - - _To make excellent Coffee._ See among sick Cookery. - - - _Orgeat._ - -Boil a quart of new milk with a stick of cinnamon, sweeten to your -taste, and let grow cold; then pour it by degrees to three ounces of -almonds, and twenty bitter, that have been blanched and beaten to a -paste, with a little water to prevent oiling; boil all together, and -stir till cold, then add half a glass of brandy. - - - _Another way._ - -Blanch and pound three quarters of a pound of almonds, and thirty -bitter, with a spoonful of water. Stir in by degrees two pints of water, -and three of milk, and strain the whole through a cloth. Dissolve half a -pound of fine sugar in a pint of water, boil and skim it well; mix it -with the other, as likewise two spoonfuls of orange flower water, and a -teacupful of the best brandy. - - - _Lemonade. To be made a day before wanted._ - -Pare two dozen of tolerably sized lemons as thin as possible, put -eighteen of the rinds into three quarts of hot, not boiling water, and -cover it over for three or four hours. Rub some fine sugar on the lemons -to attract the essence, and put it into a China bowl, into which squeeze -the juice of the lemons: to it add one pound and a half of fine sugar, -then put the water to the above, and three quarts of milk made boiling -hot; mix, and pour through a jellybag till perfectly clear. - - - _Another way._ - -Pare a number of lemons according to the quantity you are likely to -want; on the peels pour hot water, but more juice will be necessary than -you need use the peels of. While infusing, boil sugar and water to a -good syrup with the white of an egg whipt up. When it boils, pour a -little cold water into it; set it on again, and when it boils up take -the pan off, and set it to settle. If there is any skum, take it off, -and pour it clear from the sediment to the water the peels were infused -in, and the lemonjuice; stir and taste it, and add as much more water as -shall be necessary to make a very rich lemonade. Wet a jellybag, and -squeeze it dry, then strain the liquor, which is uncommonly fine. - - - _Raspberry vinegar._ - -Put a pound of fine fruit into a China bowl, and pour upon it a quart of -the best white wine vinegar; next day strain the liquor on a pound of -fresh raspberries; and the following day do the same, but do not squeeze -the fruit, only drain the liquor as dry as you can from it. The last -time pass it through a canvass previously wet with vinegar to prevent -waste. Put it into a stonejar, with a pound of sugar to every pint of -juice, broken into large lumps; stir it when melted, then put the jar -into a saucepan of water, or on a hot hearth, let it simmer, and skim -it. When cold, bottle it. - -This is one of the most useful preparations that can be kept in a house, -not only as affording the most refreshing beverage, but being of -singular efficacy in complaints of the chest. A large spoonful or two in -a tumbler of water. - -N. B. Use no glazed or metal vessel for it. - -_Note._ The fruit, with equal quantity of sugar, makes excellent -raspberry cakes without boiling. - - - _Raspberry wine._ - -To every quart of well picked raspberries put a quart of water; bruise, -and let them stand two days; strain off the liquor, and to every gallon -put three pounds of lump sugar; when dissolved put the liquor in a -barrel, and when fine, which will be in about two months, bottle it, and -to each bottle put a spoonful of brandy, or a glass of wine. - - - _Raspberry, or Currant wine._ - -To every three pints of fruit, carefully cleared from mouldy or bad, put -one quart of water; bruise the former. In twenty four hours strain the -liquor, and put to every quart a pound of sugar, a good middling quality -of Lisbon. If for white currants, use lump sugar. It is best to put the -fruit, &c. in a large pan, and when in three or four days the skum -rises, take that off before the liquor be put into the barrel. - -Those who make from their own gardens may not have a sufficiency to fill -the barrel at once. The wine will not be hurt if made in the pan, in the -above proportions, and added as the fruit ripens, and can be gathered in -dry weather. Keep an account of what is put in each time. - - - _Imperial._ - -Put two ounces of cream of tartar, and the juice and paring of two -lemons into a stonejar; pour on them seven quarts of boiling water, stir -and cover close. When cold, sweeten with loaf sugar, and straining it, -bottle and cork it tight. - -This is a very pleasant liquor, and very wholesome; but from the latter -consideration was at one time drank in such quantities, as to become -injurious. Add, in bottling, half a pint of rum to the whole quantity. - - - _Excellent Gingerwine._ - -Put into a very nice boiler ten gallons of water, twelve pounds and a -half of lump sugar, with the whites of six or eight eggs well beaten and -strained; mix all well while cold; when the liquor boils, skim it well; -put in half a pound of common white ginger bruised, boil it twenty -minutes. Have ready the very thin rinds of ten lemons, and pour the -liquor on them; when _cool_, turn it with two spoonfuls of yeast; put a -quart of the liquor to two ounces of isinglass shavings, while warm, -_whisk_ it well three or four times, and pour all together into the -barrel. Next day stop it up; in three weeks bottle, and in three months -it will be a delicious and refreshing liquor; and though very cool, -perfectly safe. - - - _Another for Gingerwine._ - -Boil nine quarts of water with six pounds of lump sugar, the rinds of -two or three lemons very thinly pared, with two ounces of bruised white -ginger half an hour; skim. Put three quarters of a pound of raisins into -the cask; when the liquor is lukewarm, tun it with the juice of two -lemons strained, and a spoonful and a half of yeast. Stir it daily, then -put in half a pint of brandy, and half an ounce of isinglass shavings; -stop it up, and bottle it six or seven weeks. Do not put the lemonpeel -in the barrel. - - - _Alderwine._ - -To every quart of berries put two quarts of water, _boil_ half an hour, -run the liquor, and break the fruit through a hair sieve; then to every -quart of juice, put three quarters of a pound of Lisbon sugar, not the -very coarsest, but coarse. Boil the whole a quarter of an hour with some -Jamaica peppers, ginger, and a few cloves. Pour it into a tub, and when -of a proper warmth into the barrel, with toast and yeast to work, which -there is more difficulty to make it do than most other liquors. When it -ceases to hiss, put a quart of brandy to eight gallons, and stop up. -Bottle in the spring or at Christmas. - - - _White Alderwine; very much like Frontiniac._ - -Boil eighteen pounds of white powder sugar, with six gallons of water, -and two whites of eggs well beaten; then skim it, and put in a quarter -of a peck of alder flowers from the tree that bears _white_ berries; do -not keep them on the fire. When near cold, stir it, and put in six -spoonfuls of lemonjuice, four or five of yeast, and beat well into the -liquor; stir it every day; put six pounds of the best raisins, stoned, -into the cask, and tun the wine. Stop it close, and bottle in six -months. - -When well kept, this wine will pass for Frontiniac. - - - _Clary Wine._ - -Boil fifteen gallons of water, with forty five pounds of sugar, skim it, -when cool put a little to a quarter of a pint of yeast, and so by -degrees add a little more. In an hour pour the small quantity to the -large, pour the liquor on clary flowers, picked in the dry; the quantity -for the above is twelve quarts. Those who gather from their own garden -may not have sufficient to put in at once, and may add as they can get -them, keeping account of each quart. When it ceases to hiss, and the -flowers are all in, stop it up for four months. Rack it off, empty the -barrel of the dregs, and adding a gallon of the best brandy, stop it up, -and let it stand six or eight weeks then bottle it. - - - _A rich and pleasant Wine._ - -Take new cyder from the press, mix it with as much honey as will support -an egg, boil gently fifteen minutes, but not in an iron, brass, or -copper pot. Skim it well; when cool, let it be tunned, but do not quite -fill. In March following bottle it, and it will be fit to drink in six -weeks; will be less sweet if kept longer in the cask. You will have a -rich and strong wine, and it will keep well. This will serve for any -culinary purposes which sack, or sweet wine, are directed for. - -Duhamel says, honey is a fine ingredient to assist, and render -palatable, new crabbed austere cider. - - - _Raisinwine, with Cider._ - -Put two hundred weight of Malaga raisins into a cask, and pour upon them -a hogshead of good sound cider that is not rough. Stir it well two or -three days; stop it, and let it stand six months; then rack into a cask -that it will fill, and put in a gallon of the best brandy. - -If raisinwine be much used, it would answer well to keep a cask always -for it, and bottle off one year’s wine just in time to make the next, -which, allowing the six months of infusion, would make the wine to be -eighteen months old. In cider countries this way is very economical; and -even if not thought strong enough, the addition of another quarter of a -hundred of raisins would be sufficient, and the wine would still be very -cheap. - -When the raisins are pressed through a horsehair bag, they will either -produce a very good spirit by distillation, and must be sent to a -chymist who will do it (but if for that purpose, they must be very -little pressed); or they will make excellent vinegar, on which article -see page 116. - -The stalks should be picked off for the above, and may be thrown into -any cask of vinegar that is making; being very acid. - - - _Raisinwine, without Cider._ - -On four hundred weight of Malagas pour one hogshead of spring water, -stir well daily for fourteen days, then squeeze the raisins in a -horsehair bag in a press, and tun the liquor; when it ceases to hiss, -stop it close. In six months rack it off into another cask, or into a -tub, and after clearing out the sediment, return it into the same, but -do not wash it; add a gallon of the best brandy, stop it close, and in -six months bottle it. - -Take care of the pressed fruit, for the uses of which refer to the -preceding receipt. - - - _Ratafia._ - -Blanch two ounces of peach and apricot kernels, bruise and put them into -a bottle, and fill nearly up with brandy. Dissolve half a pound of white -sugarcandy in a cup of cold water, and add to the brandy after it has -stood a month on the kernels, and they are strained off; then filter -through paper, and bottle for use. - - - _Raspberry brandy._ - -Pick fine dry fruit, put into a stonejar, and the jar into a kettle of -water, or on a hot hearth, till the juice will run; strain, and to every -pint add half a pound of sugar, give one boil, and skim it; when cold, -put equal quantities of juice and brandy, shake well, and bottle. Some -people prefer it stronger of the brandy. - - - _Verder, or Milkpunch._ - -Pare six oranges, and six lemons as thin as you can, grate them after -with sugar to get the flavour. Steep the peels in a bottle of rum or -brandy stopped close twenty four hours. Squeeze the fruit on a pound and -a half of sugar, add to it four quarts of water, and one of new milk -boiling hot; stir the rum into the above, and run it through a jellybag -till perfectly clear. Bottle, and cork close immediately. - - - _Norfolkpunch._ - -Pare six lemons and three Seville oranges very thin, squeeze the juice -into a large teapot, put to it two quarts of brandy, one of white wine, -and one of milk, and one pound and a quarter of sugar. Let it be mixed, -and then covered for twenty four hours, strain through a jellybag till -clear; then bottle it. - - - _Orange, or Lemon syrup; a most useful thing to keep in the house, to - take with water, in colds or fevers._ - -Squeeze the juice of very good fruit, and boil when strained, a pint to -a pound of sugar, over a very gentle fire; skim it well; when clear, -pour it into a China bowl, and in twenty four hours bottle it for use. - - - _White Currant shrub._ - -Strip the fruit, and prepare in a jar as for jelly; strain the juice, of -which put two quarts to one gallon of rum, and two pounds of lump sugar; -strain through a jellybag. - - * * * * * - -The following pages will contain Cookery for the sick; it being of more -consequence to support those whose bad appetites will not allow them to -take the necessary nourishment, than to stimulate those that are in -health. - -It may not be unnecessary to advise that a choice be made of the things -most likely to agree with the patient; _that_ a change be provided; -_that_ some one at least be always ready; _that_ not too much of those -be made at once, which are not likely to keep, as invalids require -variety; and let them succeed each other in a different form and -flavour. - - - _A great Restorative._ - -Bake two calf’s feet in three pints of water, and new milk, in a jar -close covered, three hours and a half. When cold remove the fat. - -Give a large teacupful the last and first thing. Whatever flavour is -approved, give it by baking in it lemonpeel, cinnamon, or mace. Add -sugar. - - - _Another._ - -Simmer six sheep’s trotters, two blades of mace, a little cinnamon, -lemonpeel, a few hartshorn shavings, and a little isinglass, in two -quarts of water to one; when cold take off the fat, and give near half a -pint twice a day; warming with it a little new milk. - - - _Another._ - -Boil one ounce of isinglass shavings, forty Jamaica peppers, and a bit -of brown crust of bread, in a quart of water to a pint, and strain it. - -This makes a pleasant jelly to keep in the house; of which a large -spoonful may be taken in wine and water, milk, tea, soup, or any way. - - - _Another most pleasant Draught._ - -Boil a quarter of an ounce of isinglass shavings with a pint of new milk -to half, add a bit of sugar, and, for change, a bitter almond. Give this -at night, not too warm. - -Blamange, Dutch Flummery, and Jellies, as directed pages 164 and 165, or -less rich according to judgment. - - - _A very nourishing Veal broth._ - -Put the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of veal, with very little meat to -it, an old fowl, and four shankbones of mutton extremely well soaked and -brushed, three blades of mace, ten peppercorns, an onion, and a large -bit of bread, and three quarts of water, into a stewpot that covers -close, and simmer in the slowest manner after it has boiled up, and been -skimmed; or, bake it; strain and take off the fat. Salt as wanted. - - - _A clear Broth that will keep long._ - -Put the mouse round of beef, a knucklebone of veal, and a few shanks of -mutton into a deep pan, and cover close with a dish or coarse crust; -bake till the beef is done enough for eating, with only as much water as -will cover. When cold, cover it close in a cool place. When to be used, -give what flavour may be approved. - - - _Dr. Ratcluff’s restorative Porkjelly._ - -Take a leg of well fed pork, just as cut up, beat it, and break the -bone. Set it over a gentle fire, with three gallons of water, and simmer -to one. Let half an ounce of mace, and the same of nutmegs, stew in it. -Strain through a line sieve. When cold, take off the fat. Give a -chocolate cup the first and last thing, and at noon, putting salt to -taste. - - - _Beef tea._ - -Cut a pound of fleshy beef in thin slices, simmer with a quart of water -twenty minutes, after it has once boiled, and been skimmed. Season, if -approved; but it has generally only salt. - - - _Broth of Beef, Mutton, and Veal._ - -Put two pounds of lean beef, two pounds of scrag of mutton, sweet herbs, -and ten peppercorns, into a nice tin saucepan, with five quarts of -water; simmer to three quarts; and clear from the fat when cold. - -_Note._ That soup and broth made of different meats are more supporting, -as well as better flavoured. - - - - - TWO WAYS OF PREPARING A CHICKEN. - - - _Chicken panada._ - -Boil it till about three parts ready in a quart of water, take off the -skin, cut the white meat off when cold, and put into a marble mortar; -pound it to a paste with a little of the water it was boiled in, season -with a little salt, a grate of nutmeg, and the least bit of lemonpeel. -Boil gently for a few minutes to the consistency you like; it should be -such as you can drink, though tolerably thick. - -This conveys great nourishment in small compass. - - - _Chicken broth._ - -Put the body and legs of the fowl that the panada was made of, taking -off the skin and rump, into the water it was boiled in, with one blade -of mace, one slice of onion, and ten white peppercorns. Simmer till the -broth be of a pleasant flavour. If not water enough, add a little. Beat -a quarter of an ounce of sweet almonds, with a teaspoonful of water, -fine, boil it in the broth, strain, and when cold, remove the fat. - - - _Shank jelly._ - -Soak twelve shanks of mutton four hours, then brush and scour them very -clean. Lay them in a saucepan with three blades of mace, an onion, -twenty Jamaica, and thirty or forty black peppers, a bunch of sweet -herbs, and a crust of bread made very brown by toasting. Pour three -quarts of water to them, and set them on a hot hearth close covered; let -them simmer as gently as possible for five hours, then strain it off, -and put it in a cold place. - -This may have the addition of a pound of beef, if approved, for flavour. - - - _Eel broth._ - -Clean half a pound of small eels, and set them on with three pints of -water, some parsley, one slice of onion, a few peppercorns; let them -simmer till the eels are broken, and the broth good. Add salt. - -The above should make three half pints of broth. - - - _Tench broth._ - -Make as above. They are both very nutritious, and light of digestion. - - - _A quick made Broth._ - -Take a bone or two of a neck or loin of mutton, take off the fat and -skin, set it on the fire in a small tin saucepan that has a cover, with -three quarters of a pint of water, the meat being first beaten, and cut -in thin bits; put a bit of thyme and parsley, and, if approved, a slice -of onion. Let it boil very quick, skim it nicely; take off the cover, if -likely to be too weak; else cover it. Half an hour is sufficient for the -whole process. - - - _Calf’s feet Broth._ - -Boil two feet in three quarts of water to half; strain and set it by. -When to be used, take off the fat, put a large teacupful of the jelly -into a saucepan, with half a glass of sweet wine, a little sugar and -nutmeg, and heat it up till it be ready to boil, then take a little of -it, and beat by degrees to the yelk of an egg, and adding a bit of -butter, the size of a nutmeg, stir it altogether, but do not let it -boil. Grate a bit of fresh lemonpeel into it. - - - _Another._ - -Boil two calf’s feet, two ounces of veal, and two of beef, the bottom of -a penny loaf, two or three blades of mace, half a nutmeg sliced, and a -little salt, in three quarts of water, to three pints; strain, and take -off the fat. - - - _Panada; made in five minutes._ - -Set a little water on the fire with a glass of white wine, some sugar, -and a scrape of nutmeg and lemonpeel; meanwhile grate some crumbs of -bread. The moment the mixture boils up, keeping it still on the fire, -put the crumbs in, and let it boil as fast as it can. When of a proper -thickness just to drink, take it off. - - - _Another._ - -As above, but instead of a glass of wine, put in a spoonful, a -teaspoonful of rum, and a bit of butter; sugar as above. - -This is a most pleasant mess. - - - _Another._ - -Put to the water a bit of lemonpeel, mix the crumbs in, and when nearly -boiled enough, put some lemon or orange syrup. - -Observe to boil all the ingredients; for if any be added after, the -panada will break, and not jelly. - - - _Barleywater._ - -Boil an ounce of pearlbarley a few minutes to cleanse, then put on it a -quart of water, simmer an hour; when half done, put into it a bit of -fresh lemonpeel, and one bit of sugar. If likely to be too thick, you -may put another quarter of a pint of water. - - - _Common Barleywater._ - -Wash a handful of common barley, then simmer it gently in three pints of -water with a bit of lemonpeel. - -This is less apt to nauseate than pearlbarley; but the former is a very -pleasant drink. - - - _A very agreeable Drink._ - -Into a tumbler of fresh cold water pour a table spoonful of capillaire; -and the same of good vinegar. - - - _Lemon water; a delightful drink._ - -Put two slices of lemon thinly pared into a teapot, and a little bit of -the peel, and a bit of sugar, or a large spoonful of capillaire; pour in -a pint of boiling water, and stop close. - - - _Apple water._ - -Cut two large apples in slices, and pour a quart of boiling water on -them; or on roasted apples. - -Tamarinds, currants fresh or in jelly, or scalded currants, or -cranberries, make excellent drinks; with a little sugar or not, as may -be agreeable. - - - _Raspberry Vinegarwater. See page 240._ - -This is one of the most delightful drinks that can be made. - - - _Toast and Water._ - -Toast slowly a thin piece of bread till extremely brown and hard, but -not the least black, then plunge it into a jug of cold water, and cover -it over an hour before used. - - - _Orangeade, or Lemonade._ - -Squeeze the juice; pour boiling water on a little of the peel, and cover -close. Boil water and sugar to a thin syrup, and skim it. When all are -cold, mix the juice, the infusion, and the syrup, with as much more -water as will make a rich sherbet; strain through a jellybag. Or, -squeeze the juice, and strain it, and add water and capillaire. - - - _Orgeat._ - -Beat two ounces of almonds with a teaspoonful of orange flower water, -and a bitter almond or two; then pour a quart of milk and water to the -paste. Sweeten with sugar, or capillaire. - -Another orgeat for company, page 239. - - - _Milkporridge._ - -Make a fine gruel of half grits, long boiled; strain off; either add -cold milk, or warm with milk as may be approved. Serve with toast. - - - _French Milkporridge._ - -Stir some oatmeal and water together, let it stand to be clear, and pour -off the latter: pour fresh upon it, stir it well, let it stand till next -day; strain through a fine sieve, and boil the water, adding milk while -doing. The proportion of water must be small. - -This is much ordered, with toast, for the breakfast of weak persons -abroad. - - - _Caudle._ - -Make a fine smooth gruel of half grits; strain it when boiled well, stir -it at times till cold. When to be used, add sugar, wine, and lemonpeel, -with nutmeg. Some like a spoonful of brandy besides the wine. - - - _Another Caudle._ - -Boil up half a pint of fine gruel, with a bit of butter the size of a -large nutmeg, a large spoonful of brandy, the same of white wine, one of -capillaire, a bit of lemonpeel and nutmeg. - - - _Rice Caudle._ - -When the water boils, pour it into some grated rice mixed with a little -cold water; when of a proper consistence add sugar, lemonpeel and -cinnamon, and a glass of brandy to a quart. Boil all smooth. - - - _Cold Caudle._ - -Boil a quart of spring water; when cold, add the yelk of an egg, the -juice of a small lemon, six spoonfuls of sweet wine, sugar to your -taste; and syrup of lemons one ounce. - - - _A refreshing drink in a Fever._ - -Put a little tea sage, two sprigs of balm, and a _little_ woodsorrel -into a stone jug, having first washed and dried them; peel thin a small -lemon, and clear from the white; slice it, and put a bit of the peel in, -then pour in three points of boiling water, sweeten, and cover it close. - - - _Another Drink._ - -Wash extremely well an ounce of pearlbarley; shift it twice, then put to -it three pints of water, an ounce of sweet almonds beaten fine, and a -bit of lemonpeel. Boil till you have a smooth liquor, then put in a -little syrup of lemons and capillaire. - - - _Another Drink._ - -Boil three pints of water with an ounce and a half of tamarinds, three -ounces of currants, and two ounces of stoned raisins, till near a third -be consumed. Strain it. - - - _A most pleasant Drink._ - -Put a teacupful of cranberries into a cup of water, and mash them. In -the mean time boil two quarters and a pint of water with one large -spoonful of oatmeal, and a very large bit of lemonpeel: then add the -cranberries, and as much fine Lisbon sugar as shall leave a smart -flavour of the fruit; and a quarter of a pint of sherry or less, as may -be proper; boil all for half an hour, and strain off. - - - _Whey._ - -That of cheese is a very wholesome drink, especially when the cows are -in fresh herbage. - - - _White Wine whey._ - -Put half a pint of new milk on the fire; the moment it boils up, pour in -as much sound raisin wine as will completely turn it, and it looks -clear; let it boil up, then set the saucepan aside till the curd -subsides, and do not stir it. Pour the whey off, and add to it half a -pint of boiling water, and a bit of white sugar. Thus you will have a -whey perfectly cleared of milky particles, and as weak as you choose to -make it. - - - _Vinegar and Lemon wheys._ - -Pour into boiling milk as above, and when clear, dilute with boiling -water, and put a bit or two of sugar. - - - _Eggwine._ - -Beat an egg, mix with it a spoonful of cold water; set on the fire a -glass of white wine, half a glass of water and sugar, and nutmeg. When -it boils, pour a little of it to the egg by degrees, till the whole be -in, stirring it well; then return the whole into the saucepan, put it on -a gentle fire, stir it one way for not more than a minute; for if it -boil, or the egg be stale, it will curdle. Serve with toast. - -Eggwine may be made as above, without warming the egg, and it is then -lighter on the stomach, though not so pleasant to the taste. - -An egg broken into a cup of tea, or beaten and mixed with a bason of -milk, makes a breakfast more supporting than tea. - -An egg divided, and the yelk and white beaten separately, then mixed -with a glass of wine, will afford two very wholesome draughts, and prove -lighter than when taken together. - -Eggs very little boiled or poached, taken in small quantity, convey much -nourishment. - - _The following is a particularly soft and fine draught, to be taken - the first and last thing, by those who are weak, and have a cough._ - -Beat a fresh laid egg, and mix it with a quarter of a pint of new milk -warmed, a large spoonful of capillaire, the same of rosewater, and a -little nutmeg scraped. Do not warm after the egg is put in. - - - _Chocolate._ - -Those who use much of this article, will find the following mode of -preparing both useful and economical. - -Cut a cake of chocolate in very small bits; put a pint of water into the -pot, and, when it boils, put in the above; mill it off the fire until -quite melted, then on a gentle fire till it boil; pour it into a bason, -and it will keep in a cool place eight or ten days, or more. When wanted -put a spoonful or two into milk, boil it with sugar, and mill it well. - -This, if not made thick, is a very good breakfast or supper. - - - _To make Coffee._ - -Put two ounces of fresh ground coffee of the best quality into a -coffeepot, and pour eight coffee cups of boiling water on it; let it -boil six minutes, pour out a cupful two or three times, and return it -again; then put two or three isinglass chips into it, and pour one large -spoonful of boiling water on it; boil it five minutes more, and set the -pot by the fire to keep hot for ten minutes, and you will have coffee, -of a beautiful clearness. - -Fine cream should always be served with coffee, and either pounded -sugarcandy or fine Lisbon sugar. - -If for foreigners, or those who like it extremely strong, make only -eight dishes from three ounces. If not fresh roasted, lay it before a -fire until perfectly hot and dry; or you may put the smallest bit of -fresh butter into a preserving pan of a small size, and, when hot throw -the coffee in it, and toss it about until it be freshened. - - - _Coffee Milk._ - -Boil a dessert spoonful of ground coffee, in nearly a pint of milk, a -quarter of an hour; then put into it a shaving or two of isinglass, and -clear it. Let it boil a few minutes, and set it on the side of the fire -to grow fine. - -This is a very fine breakfast. It should be sweetened with real Lisbon -sugar of a good quality. - - - _Ground Rice Milk._ - -Boil one spoonful of ground rice, rubbed down smooth, with three half -pints of milk, a bit of cinnamon, lemonpeel, and nutmeg. Sweeten when -nearly done. - - - _Tapioca jelly._ - -Choose the largest sort, pour cold water on to wash it two or three -times, then soak it in fresh water five or six hours, and simmer it in -the same until it become quite clear; then put lemonjuice, wine, and -sugar. The peel should have been boiled in it. It thickens very much. - - - _Sago._ - -To prevent the earthy taste, soak it in cold water an hour; pour that -off, and wash it well; then add more, and simmer gently till the berries -are clear, with lemonpeel and spice, if approved. Add wine and sugar, -and boil all up together. - - - _Sago Milk._ - -Cleanse as above, and boil it slowly and wholly with new milk. It swells -so much that a small quantity will be sufficient for a quart, and when -done it will be diminished to about a pint. It requires no sugar, or -flavouring. - - - _Arrowroot jelly._ - -Of this beware of having the wrong sort; for it has been counterfeited -with bad effect. - -Mix a large spoonful of the powder with, a teacup of cold water, by -degrees, and quite smooth. Put rather more than a pint of water over the -fire, with some white sugar, scraped nutmeg, and a spoonful and a half -of brandy, or two. The moment it boils, pour the powder and water in, -stirring it well; and when it boils up it is done. - -This is a very useful thing in a house; and in the above mode a sick -person may be supplied with a fine supporting meal in a few minutes. - -This and the following are particularly good in bowel complaints. - - - _A Flour Caudle._ - -Into five large spoonfuls of the purest water, rub smooth one -dessertspoonful of fine flour. Set over the fire five spoonfuls of new -milk, and put two bits of sugar into it; the moment it boils, pour into -it, the flour and water, and stir it over a slow fire twenty minutes. - - - _A Rice Caudle._ - -Soak some Carolina rice in water an hour, strain it, and put two -spoonfuls of the rice into a pint and a quarter of milk; simmer till it -will pulp through a sieve, then put the pulp and milk into the saucepan, -with a bruised clove and a bit of white sugar. Simmer ten minutes; if -too thick, add a spoonful or two of milk, and serve with thin toast. - - - _Gloucester jelly._ - -Take rice, sago, pearlbarley, hartshorn shavings and eringoroot, each an -ounce; simmer with two pints of water to one, and strain it. When cold -it will be a jelly; of which give, dissolved in wine, milk, or broth, in -change with other nourishment. - - - _Mulled wine._ - -Boil some spice in a little water till the flavour is gained, then add -an equal quantity of port, some sugar and nutmeg; boil together, and -serve with toast. - - - _Asses’ Milk_ - -Far surpasses any imitation of it that can be made. It should be milked -into a glass that is kept warm by being in a bason of hot water. - -The fixed air that it contains gives some people a pain in the stomach. - -At first a teaspoonful of rum may be taken with it, but should only be -put in the moment it is to be swallowed. - - - _Artificial Asses’ Milk._ - -Boil together a quart of water, a quart of new milk, an ounce of white -sugarcandy, half an ounce of eringoroot, and half an ounce of conserve -of roses, till half be wasted. - -This is astringent; therefore proportion the doses to the effect. - - - _Another._ - -Mix two spoonfuls of boiling water, two of milk, and an egg well beaten; -sweeten with pounded white sugarcandy. - -This may be taken twice or thrice a day. - - - _Another._ - -Boil two ounces of hartshorn shavings, two ounces of pearlbarley, two -ounces of candied eringoroot, and one dozen of snails that have been -bruised, in two quarts of water to one. Mix with an equal quantity of -new milk, when taken, twice a day. - - - _Buttermilk, with Bread or without._ - -It is most wholesome when sour, as being less likely to be heavy, but -most agreeable when made of sweet cream. - - - _Dr. Boerhaave’s sweet Buttermilk._ - -Take the milk from the cow into a small churn, of about six shillings -price; in about ten minutes begin churning, and continue till the flakes -of butter swim about pretty thick, and the milk is discharged of all the -greasy particles, and appears thin and blue. Strain it through a sieve, -and drink it as frequently as possible. - -It should form the whole of the patient’s drink, and the food should be -biscuit and rusks, in every way and sort; ripe and dried fruits of -various kinds, when a decline is apprehended. - -Baked and dried fruits, raisins in particular, make excellent suppers -for invalids, with biscuit or common cake. - - - _When the Stomach will not receive Meat._ - -On an extreme hot plate put two or three sippets of bread, and pour over -them some gravy from beef, mutton, or veal, if there is no butter in the -dish. Sprinkle a little salt over. - -This is much lighter than meat, and conveys a great deal of nourishment -in a small form. - -Toast hard and dry a thin bit of bread, soak it in water, or port wine -and water, take it out and sift a little sugar, and, if you like it, -nutmeg. - -Or pour boiling water over a captain’s biscuit, broken in pieces, and -steam it down in a bason; when soft, add a little strong souchong tea, -cream, and sugar, or wine, sugar, and nutmeg; or a teacupful of weak -rum, or brandy and water, with sugar, just to give taste. - - - _Saloop._ - -Boil a little water, with wine, lemonpeel, and sugar, together; then mix -with a small quantity of the powder, previously rubbed smooth, with a -little cold water; stir it all together, and boil it a few minutes. - - * * * * * - -I promised a few hints, to enable every family to assist the poor of -their neighborhood at a very trivial expense; and these may be varied or -amended at the discretion of the mistress. - -Where cows are kept, a jug of skimmed milk is a valuable present. - -When the oven is hot, a large pudding may be baked, and given to a sick -or young family; and thus made, the trouble is little: into a deep -coarse pan put half a pound of rice, four ounces of coarse sugar or -treacle, two quarts of milk, and two ounces of dripping, set it cold -into the oven. It will take a good while, but be an excellent solid -food. - -A very good meal may be bestowed in a thing called Brewis, which is thus -made: cut a very thick upper crust of bread and put it into the pot -where salt beef is boiling and near ready; it will attract some of the -fat, and, when swelled out, will be no unpalatable dish to those who -rarely taste meat. - - - _A baked Soup._ - -Put a pound of any kind of meat cut in slices; two onions, two carrots, -ditto; two ounces of rice, a pint of split peas, or whole ones if -previously soaked, pepper and salt, into an earthen jug or pan, and pour -one gallon of water. Cover it very close, and bake it with the bread. - -The cook should be charged to save the boiling of every piece of meat, -ham, tongue, &c. however salt: as it is easy to use only a part of that, -and the rest of fresh water, and by the addition of more vegetables, the -bones of the meat used in the family, the pieces of meat that come from -table on the plates, and rice, Scotch barley or oatmeal, there will be -some gallons of nutritious soup two or three times a week. The bits of -meat should be only warmed in the soup, and remain whole; the bones, &c. -boiled till they yield their nourishment. If the things are ready to put -in the boiler as soon as the meat be served, it will save lighting fire -and second cooking. - -Turnips, carrots, leeks, potatoes, or any sort of vegetable that is at -hand, should be used. - -Should the soup be poor of meat, the long boiling of the bones and -different vegetables, will afford better nourishment than the laborious -poor can obtain; especially as they are rarely tolerable cooks, and have -not fuel to do justice to what they buy. But in every family there is -some superfluity; and if it be prepared with cleanliness and care, the -benefit will be very great to the receiver, and the satisfaction no less -to the giver. - -I found, in the time of scarcity, ten or fifteen gallons of soup, could -be dealt out weekly, at an expense not worth mentioning, though the -vegetables were bought. If in the villages about London, abounding with -opulent families, the quantity of ten gallons were made in ten -gentlemen’s houses, there would be a hundred gallons of wholesome -agreeable food given weekly for the supply of forty poor families, at -the rate of two gallons and a half each. - -What a relief to the labouring husband, instead of bread and cheese, to -have a warm comfortable meal! To the sick, aged, and infant branches, -how important an advantage. - -It very rarely happens, that servants object to seconding the kindness -of their superiors to the poor; but should the cook in any family think -the adoption of this plan too troublesome, a gratuity at the end of the -winter might repay her, if the love of her fellow creatures failed of -doing it, a hundred fold. Did she readily enter into it, she would never -wash away as useless the pease or grits of which soup or gruel had been -made; broken potatoes, the green heads of celery, the necks and feet of -fowls, and particularly the shanks of mutton, and various other -articles, which in preparing dinner for the family are thrown aside. - -Fish affords great nourishment, and that not by the part eaten only, but -the bones, heads, and fins, which contain an isinglass. When the fish is -served, let the cook put by some of the water, and stew in it the above, -as likewise add the gravy that is in the dish, until she obtains all the -goodness. If to be eaten by itself, when it makes a delightful broth, -she should add a very small bit of onion, some pepper, and a little rice -flour rubbed down smooth with it. - -But strained it makes a delicious improvement to the meat soup, -particularly for the sick; and when such are to be supplied, the milder -parts of the spare bones and meat should be made for them, with little, -if any of the liquor of the salt meats. - -The fat should not be taken off the broth or soup, as the poor like it, -and are nourished by it. - - - _The following is an excellent Soup for the weakly._ - -Put two cowheels and a breast of mutton into a large pan, with four -ounces of rice, one onion, twenty Jamaica peppers, and twenty black, a -turnip, a carrot, and four gallons of water. Cover with brown paper, and -bake. - - - _Sago._ - -Put a teacupful of sago into a quart of water, and a bit of lemonpeel; -when thickened, grate some ginger, and add half a pint of raisinwine, -brown sugar, and two spoonfuls of Geneva. Boil all up together. - -It is a most supporting thing for those whom disease has left very -feeble. - - - _Caudle for the Sick and Lying in._ - -Set three quarts of water on the fire, mix smooth as much oatmeal as -will thicken the whole with a pint of cold water; when boiling, pour the -latter in, and twenty Jamaica peppers in fine powder; boil to a good -middling thickness, then add sugar, half a pint of well fermented table -beer, and a glass of gin. Boil all. - -This mess twice, and once or twice of broth, will be of incalculable -service. - -There is not a better occasion for charitable commiseration than when a -person is sick. A bit of meat or pudding sent unexpectedly has often -been the means of recalling long lost appetite. - -Nor are the indigent alone the grateful receivers; for in the highest -houses a real good sick-cook is rarely met with; and many who possess -all the goods of fortune, have attributed the first return of health to -some _kitchen physic_. - - - - - USEFUL DIRECTIONS TO GIVE TO SERVANTS. - - - _To give to boards a beautiful appearance._ - -After washing them very nicely clean with soda and warm water, and a -brush, wash them with a very large sponge and clean water. Both times -observe to leave no spot untouched, and clean straight up and down not -crossing from board to board; then dry with clean cloths, rubbing hard -up and down in the same way. - -The floors should not be often wetted, but very thoroughly when done; -and once a week dry rubbed with hot sand, and a heavy brush, the right -way of the boards. - -The sides of stairs or passages on which are carpets, or floorcloth, -should be washed with sponge instead of linen or flannel, and the edges -will not be soiled. Different sponges should be kept for the two above -uses; and those and the brushes should be well washed when done with, -and kept in dry places. - - - _Floorcloths._ - -Should be chosen that are painted on a fine cloth, that is well covered -with the colour, and the flowers on which do not rise much above the -ground, as they wear out first. The durability of the cloth will depend -much on these two particulars, but more especially on the time it has -been painted, and the goodness of the colours. If they have not been -allowed sufficient space for becoming thoroughly hardened, a very little -use will injure them; and as they are very expensive articles, care in -preserving them is necessary. It answers to keep them some time before -they are used, either hung up in a dry barn where they will have air, or -laid down in a spare room. When taken up for the winter, they should be -rolled round a carpet roller, and observe not to crack the paint by -turning the edges in too close. - -Old carpets answer extremely well, painted and seasoned some months -before laid down. If for passages, the width must be directed when they -are sent to the manufactory, as they cut before painting. - - - _To clean Floorcloths._ - -Sweep, then wipe them with a flannel; and when all dust and spots are -removed, rub with a waxed flannel, and then with a dry plain one; but -use little wax, and rub only enough with the latter to give a little -smoothness, or it may endanger falling. - -Washing now and then with milk after the above sweeping, and dry rubbing -them, give as beautiful a look, and they are less slippery. - - - _To take the black off the bright bars of polished Stoves in a few - minutes._ - -Rub them well with some of the following mixture on a bit of broadcloth; -when the dirt is removed, wipe them clean, and polish with glass, not -sandpaper. - - - _The mixture._ - -Boil slowly one pound of soft soap in two quarts of water to one. Of -this jelly take three or four spoonfuls, and mix to a consistence with -emery, No 3. - - - _To clean the back of the grate; the inner hearth; and of Castiron - Stoves, the fronts._ - -Boil about a quarter of a pound of the best black lead, with a pint of -small beer, and a bit of soap the size of a walnut. When that is melted, -dip a painter’s brush, and wet the grate, having first brushed off all -the soot and dust; then take a hard brush, and rub it till of a -beautiful brightness. - - - _Another way to clean Castiron, and black Hearths._ - -Mix black lead and whites of eggs beaten well together; dip a painter’s -brush, and wet all over, then rub it bright with a hard brush. - - - _To preserve Irons from rust._ - -Melt fresh _mutton suet_, smear over the iron with it, while hot; then -dust it well with unslacked lime pounded, and tied up in a muslin. Irons -so prepared will keep many months. Use no oil for them at any time, -except sallad oil; there being water in all other. - -Fireirons should be kept wrapt in baize, in a dry place, when not used. - - - _To clean tin covers, and patent pewter Porterpots._ - -Get the finest whiting, which is only sold in large cakes, the small -being mixed with sand, mix a little of it powdered, with the least drop -of sweet oil, and rub well, and wipe clean; then dust some dry whiting -in a muslin bag over, and rub bright with dry leather. The last is to -prevent rust, which the cook must be careful to guard against by wiping -dry, and putting by the fire when they come from the parlour; for if but -once hung up without, the steam will rust the inside. - - - _To take rust out of Steel._ - -Cover the steel with sweet oil well rubbed on it, and in forty eight -hours use unslacked lime finely powdered, and rub until all the rust -disappears. - - - _To clean stone Stairs and Halls._ - -Boil a pound of pipe makers clay with a quart of water, a quart of small -beer, and put in a bit of stone blue. Wash with this mixture, and when -dry, rub the stones with flannel and a brush. - - - _To clear Paperhangings._ - -First blow off the dust with the bellows. Divide a white loaf of two -days old into eight parts. Take the crust into your hand, and beginning -at the top of the paper, wipe it downwards in the lightest manner with -the crumb. Do not cross or go upwards. The dirt of the paper and the -crumbs will fall together. Observe, you must not wipe above half a yard -at a stroke, and after doing all the upper, part, go round again, -beginning a little above where you left off. If you do not do it -extremely lightly, you will make the dirt adhere to the paper. - -It will look like new if properly done. - - - _To clean Paint._ - -Never use a cloth, but take off the dust with a little longhaired brush, -after blowing off the loose parts with the bellows. With care, paint -will look well for a length of time. When soiled, dip a sponge or a bit -of flannel into soda and water, wash it off quickly, and dry -immediately, or the strength of the soda will eat off the colour. - -When wainscot requires scouring, it should be done from the top -downwards, and the suds be prevented from running on the unclean part as -much as possible, or marks will be made which will appear after the -whole be finished. One person should dry with old linen as fast as the -other has scoured off the dirt and washed the soda off. - - - _To clean Lookingglasses._ - -Remove the fly stains, and other soil, by a damp rag; then polish with -woollen cloth and powder-blue. - - - _To preserve Gilding, and clean it._ - -It is not possible to prevent flies from staining the gilding without -covering it; before which, blow off the light dust, and pass a feather -or clean brush over it; then with strips of paper cover the frames of -your glasses, and do not remove it till the flies are gone. - -Linen takes off the gilding, and deadens its brightness; it should -therefore never be used for wiping it. - -Some means should be used to destroy the flies, as they injure furniture -of every kind, and the paper likewise. Bottles hung about with sugar and -vinegar, or beer, will attract them; or fly water put into the bottom of -a saucer. - - - _To clean Plate._ - -Boil an ounce of prepared hartshorn powder in a quart of water. While on -the fire, put into it as much plate as the vessel will hold; let it boil -a little, then take it out, drain it over the saucepan, and dry it -before the fire. Put in more, and serve the same, till you have done. -Then put into the water some clean linen rags till all be soaked up. -When dry, they will serve to clean the plate, and are the very best -things to clean the brass locks and fingerplates of doors. When the -plate is quite dry, it must be rubbed bright with leather. - -This is a very nice mode. - -_Note._ In many plate powders there is a mixture of quicksilver, which -is very injurious; and, among other disadvantages, it makes silver so -brittle, that from a fall it will break. - - - _To give a fine Colour to Mahogany._ - -Let the tables be washed perfectly clean with vinegar, having first -taken out any ink stains there may be with spirits of salt; but it must -be used with the greatest care, and only touch the part affected, and be -instantly washed off. Use the following liquid: into a pint of cold -drawn linseed oil, put four penny worth of alconet root, and two penny -worth of rose pink, in an earthen vessel; let it remain all night, then -stirring well, rub some of it all over the tables with a linen rag; when -it has lain some time, rub it bright with linen cloths. - -Eating tables should be covered with mat, oilcloth, or baize, to prevent -staining, and be instantly rubbed when the dishes are taken off, while -still warm. - - - _To dust Carpets and Floors._ - -Sprinkle tea leaves on them, then sweep carefully. The former should not -be swept frequently with a whisk brush, as it wears them fast; but once -a week, and the other times with the leaves and a hair brush. - - - _To clean Carpets._ - -Take up the carpet, let it be well beaten, then laid down, and brushed -on both sides with a hand brush. Turn it the right side upwards, and -scour it with oxgall, and soap and water, very clean, and dry it with -linen cloths. - - - _To take Stains out of Marble._ - -Mix unslacked lime, in finest powder, with the stronger soap lye, pretty -thick; and instantly, with a painter’s brush, lay it on the whole of the -marble. In two months time wash it off perfectly clean; then have ready -a fine thick lather of soft soap, boiled in soft water; dip a brush in -it, and scour the marble with powder, not as common cleaning. This will, -by very good rubbing, give a beautiful polish. Clear off the soap, and -finish with a smooth hard brush till the end be effected. - - - _To clean Calico Furniture, when taken down for the Summer._ - -Shake off the loose dust, then lightly brush with a small longhaired -furniture brush; after which wipe it closely with clean flannels, and -rub it with dry bread. - -If properly done, the curtains will look nearly as well as at first. - -Fold in large parcels, and put carefully by. - -While the furniture remains up, it should be preserved from the sun and -air as much as possible, which injure delicate colours; and the dust may -be blown off with bellows. - - - _To preserve Furs and Woollen from Moth._ - -Let the former be occasionally combed while in use, and the latter be -brushed and shaken. When not wanted, dry them first, let them be cool, -then mix among them bitter apples from the apothecary’s, in small muslin -bags, sewing them in several folds of linen, carefully turned in at the -edges. - - - - - INDEX. - - - A. - - ALDER wine, 243 - white, very much like Frontiniac, 243 - - _Ale_, to brew, 236 - , very fine Welsh, 236 - to refine, 238 - - _Almond_ cheesecakes, 186 - cream, 169 - puddings, 142 - , baked, 155 - , small, 157 - - _Amber_ pudding, a very fine one, 144 - - _Anchovies_, to keep them when the liquor dries, 118 - sauce, 108 - essence of 112 - to make sprats taste like, 117 - - _Apples_, to prepare them for puffs, 176 - dried, 175 - dumplings, or pudding, 151 - fool, 172 - jelly to serve to table, 176 - , another, 176 - - _Apple_ jelly, for preserved apricots, or any sort of sweetmeats, 196 - pie, 180 - pudding, baked, 144 - water, 254 - to scald codlins, 177 - to keep codlins for - several months, 189 - stewed goldenpippins, 175 - red in jelly, 175 - - _Apricots_, in brandy, 195 - to dry in half, 196 - green, to preserve, 197 - to preserve in jelly, 196 - apple jelly for this purpose, 196 - cheese, 194 - pudding, an excellent one, 154 - - _Arrowroot_ jelly, 260 - - _Asses_ milk, 262 - , artificial, 262 - , another, 262 - , another, 263 - - - B. - - _Bacon_, excellent, 69 - the manner of curing Wiltshire, 64 - fraise, 137 - - _Bamboo_, (English) to pickle, 120 - - _Barberries_, for tartlets, 201 - drops, 202 - - _Barleywater_, 253 - , common, 253 - - _Bean Pudding_, green, 154 - - _Bechamel_, 104 - - _Beef_, stewed rump of, 28 - , stewed brisket, 29 - , to salt red, which - is extremely good to eat fresh from the pickle, or to hang to dry, 30 - , pressed, 31 - , hunter’s, 31 - , to dress the inside of a cold sirloin, 38 - , fricassee of cold roast, 38 - , to dress cold that has not been done enough, called beef olives, 38 - , to dress, called Sanders, 39 - , to dress, called Cecils, 39 - , to salt for eating immediately, 27 - alamode, 28 - , broth, 250 - , collared, 31 - - _Beef_, collop, 33 - hashed, 40 - heart, 42 - minced, 39 - olives, 38 - palates, 34 - cakes for sidedish of dressed meat, 34 - potted, 35 - , another way, 35 - patties, or Podovies, 34 - , Benton sauce for hot or cold roast, 107 - round of, 40 - , sauce Robart for rumps, 106 - , a pickle for that will keep for years, 68 - , tea, 250 - - _Beefsteaks_ and oyster sauce, 32 - , sauce Robart for, 106 - pie, 34 - pudding, 33 - pudding, baked, 34 - , Staffordshire, 32 - , Italian, 33 - - _Beer_, to refine, 238 - (strong) to brew, 236 - (table) excellent, 237 - - _Benton_ sauce, for hot or cold roast beef, 107 - tea cakes, 220 - - _Birds_, a very economical way of potting, 78 - - _Biscuit_ cake, 222 - , hard, 220 - - _Biscuit_, plain, and very crisp, 221 - , of fruit, 204 - - _Black_ caps, 175 - puddings, 65 - another way, 66 - - _Blancmange_, or Blamange, 164 - - _Boards_, to give them a beautiful appearance, 269 - - _Bockings_, 182 - - _Boiling_ meat, observations on, 20, 21 - - _Brandy_ cream, 169 - pudding, 155 - - _Bread_ cake, common, 217 - pudding, boiled, 147 - , another and richer, 147 - puddings, little, 145 - and butter pudding, 142 - sauce, 110 - brown pudding, 147 - ice, 211 - French, 229 - - _Brentford_ rolls, 227 - - BREWERY, HOME, 236 to 247 - - _Broth_, A quickmade, 252 - , a clear one, that will keep long, 249 - Others are under different names; as _Chicken_ broth, &c. - - _Brown bread_ pudding, 147 - ice, 211 - - _Browning_, to colour and flavour made dishes, 117 - - _Bubble and Squeak_, 42 - - _Bun_, a good plain one, 226 - , richer ones, 226 - - _Burnt cream_, 170 - - _Butter_, to clarify for potted things, 78 - , to melt, 107 - , pudding, 148 - with meat, 148 - , orange, 131 - - _Buttermilk_, 233 - , with bread or without, 263 - , Dr. Boerhaave’s sweet, 263 - , pudding, 155 - - - C. - - _Cabbage_, (red) to pickle, 124 - , to stew, 126 - - CAKES, 212 to 229 - , observations on making and baking them, 212 - , a very fine one, 215 - , an excellent and less expensive one, 216 - , a very good common one, 216 - , a common one, 218 - , little white, 219 - , little short, 219 - , flat that will keep long in the house good, 221 - Many other cakes are under their different first names; as _Plum_ - cake, _Tea_cakes, &c. - - _Cakes_, colours for staining &c., 203 - , icing for, 212 - - _Calf’s feet_ broth, 252 - , another, 252 - jelly, 165 - , another sort, 166 - _head_, to boil, 49 - , hashed, 49 - , mock turtle, 49 - , a cheaper way, 50 - , forcemeat as for turtle, at the Bush, Bristol, 50 - , another forcemeat, for balls or patties, 51 - , pie, 52 - , fricasseed, 53 - _liver_, broiled, 55 - , roasted, 55 - - _Calico furniture_, to clean when taken down for the summer, 275 - - _Camp_ vinegar, 112 - - _Capers_, to keep, 118 - - _Carmel_ cover for sweetmeats, 206 - - _Carp_, boiled, 12 - , stewed, 10 - , an excellent sauce for, 106 - - _Carpets_, to dust, 274 - , to clean, 275 - - _Carrots_, to stew, 127 - , pudding, 153 - , soup, 97 - - _Castiron_, to clean stoves of, 271 - , another way, 271 - - _Catsup_, mushroom, 113 - , another way, 113 - , walnut of the finest sort, 113 - , cockle, 114 - - _Caudle_, 255 - , another, 255 - , rice, 255 - , cold, 256 - , a flour, 261 - , rice, 261 - , to give away to poor families, 268 - - _Cauliflower_, in white sauce, 126 - - _Caveach_, 4 - - _Cecils_, 39 - - _Celery_, to stew, 19 - - _Cheese_, to pot, 230 - , to roast, to come up after dinner, 231 - , Cheese is also under different names; as _Cream_ cheese, _Apricot_ - cheese, &c. - - _Cheesecakes_, 183 - , a plainer sort, 184 - , another way, 184 - , lemon, 184 - , another, 185 - orange, 185 - , a very fine crust for them, when to be particularly nice, 139 - , potatoe, 185 - , almond, 186 - , light paste for, 139 - - _Cherries_, in brandy, 195 - , to dry - with sugar, 192 - without sugar, 192 - , to dry them the best way, 199 - , jam, 190 - , pie, 179 - , (morella) to preserve, 209 - - _Chickens_, to pull, 80 - broth, 250 - curry, 81 - , another, more quickly made, 82 - , fricassee of, 79 - panada, 250 - pie, 80 - - _Chocolate_, to prepare, 258 - - _Clary_ wine, 244 - - _Cod_, crimp, 13 - head and shoulders, 12 - pie, 11 - ragout, 13 - sounds boiled, 13 - - _Cod_, curry of, 13 - - _Codlins_, to keep for several months, 189 - , to scald, 177 - tart, 179 - - _Coffee_, to make, 259 - cream, much admired, 171 - milk, 259 - - _Collops_, mutton, 72 - , veal, dressed, quick, 44 - , another way, 45 - , veal, 45 - of cold veal or chicken, 45 - Scotch, 46 - - _Cornish_ pies, 89 - - _Cough_, draught for, 258 - - _Crab_, hot, 8 - - _Cracknuts_, 222 - - _Cracknels_, 223 - - _Cranberries_, different ways of dressing, 177 - jelly, 178 - and rice jelly, 178 - - _Crawfish_, soup, 101 - - _Cream_, to scald, 233 - , imperial, 167 - , a, 168 - , Others are under the names of the different principal articles they - are made of; as _Almond_ cream, &c. - , a froth to sit on, which looks and eats well, 162 - , ice, 210 - _Cheese_, 234 - , another, 234 - , another sort, 235 - , rush cheese, 235 - , another way, 235 - - _Crust_, excellent short, 139 - , another, 189 - , a very fine one for orange cheesecakes or sweetmeats, when to be - particularly nice, 139 - , rice piecrust, 150 - , raised crust for custards, of fruit, 140 - , for meat pies, or fowls, &c., 140 - , for venison pasty, 141 - , rice pasty, 141 - , See also the article _Paste_. - - _Cucumbers_, to stew, 125 - , another way, 125 - and onions sliced, to pickle, 122 - , another way, 122 - , young, 122 - - _Cullis_, or brown sauce, 104 - - _Curds_ and cream, 160 - - _Curd_, another way, 161 - puddings or puffs, 156 - pudding boiled, 156 - - _Currants_, to keep, 188 - dumplings, or pudding, 151 - and raspberry tart, 180 - jelly, red or black, 193 - , white, shrub, 247 - water ice, 210 - wine, 241 - - _Curry_, rice boiled to eat with, 136 - - _Custards_, cheap and excellent ones, 168 - , richer, 168 - Others are under the names of the different principal articles they - are made of; as _Lemon_ custards, &c. - , a froth to set on, which looks and eats well, 162 - pudding, 152 - - _Cutlets_, Maintenon, 44 - , another way, 44 - , another way, 44 - - _Cider_, to refine, 238 - - - D. - - DAIRY, 231 to 235 - - _Damsons_, to keep for winter pies, 189 - another way, 189 - - _Damsons_, another, 190 - cheese, 203 - dumplings, or pudding, 151 - - _Davenport_ fowls, 80 - - _Devonshire_ junket, 161 - - _Drink_, a very agreeable one for the sick, 253 - a refreshing one in a fever, 256 - another, 256 - another, 256 - , a most pleasant, 256 - , draught for a cough, 258 - - _Duck_, to boil, 83 - to roast, 83 - sauce for, 105 - pie, 83 - - _Dutch_ pudding, or Souster, 144 - rice pudding, 145 - - - E. - - _Eel_, boiled, 2 - broth, 3, 251 - collared, 3 - fried, 2 - pie, 2 - spitchcock, 2 - - _Eggs_, buttered, 109 - to poach, 231 - sauce, 109 - wine, 257 - little, for pies or turtles, 111 - - _Essence_, of anchovies, 211 - - - F. - - FISH, 1 to 20 - observations on dressing, 17 - jelly to cover cold ones, 104 - sauce without butter, 108 - sauce à-la-craster, 111 - a very fine one, 111 - - _Floating island_, 162 - another way, 162 - - _Floorcloths_, directions respecting them, 269 - to clean them, 270 - - _Floors_, to dust, 274 - - _Flummery_, 172 - Dutch, 156 - rice, 160 - - _Forcemeat_ for patties, balls, or stuffing, 132 - Other forcemeat is under the name of dishes. - - _Fowls_, boiled, 78 - boiled with rice, 79 - observations on roasting them, 22 - roasted, 78 - Davenport, 80 - sauce for cold, 106 - vingaret for cold, 107 - sauce for wild, 105 - , another, 105 - - _Fowls_, a very good sauce to hide the bad colour of, 109 - forcemeat for pies of any kind, 81 - fricassee of chickens, 79 - another white sauce, more easily made, 71 - collops of cold chicken, 45 - to pot chicken with ham, 47 - - _Fraise_, 182 - - _French_ beans, to preserve to eat in the winter, 130 - bread, 229 - rolls, 227 - - _Fricandeau_, 54, 127 - - _Fritters_, 182 - Spanish, 183 - potatoe, 183 - - _Froth_, to set on cream, custard, or trifle, which looks and eats - well, 162 - - FRUITS TO KEEP, 186 to 211 - - _Furs_, to preserve from moth, 276 - - - G. - - _George_ pudding, 153 - - _German_, 145 - - _Giblet_ pye, 85 - soup, 93 - stewed, 85 - - _Gilding_, to preserve and clean, 273 - - _Ginger_ drops, a good stomachic, 202 - wine, excellent, 242 - another, 242 - - _Gingerbread_, 225 - another sort, 225 - to make good without butter, 226 - - _Gloucester_ jelly, 261 - - _Goldenpippins_, stewed, 175 - - _Goose_, to roast, 84 - green pie, 85 - - _Gooseberries_, to preserve, 186 - another way, 187 - another, 188 - fool, 172 - hops, 205 - jam, for tarts, 200 - another, 201 - white, 201 - pudding, baked, 154 - vinegar, 116 - - _Grapes_, to preserve in brandy, 205 - - _Grates_, to clean the backs of, 271 - - _Gravy_, clear, 102 - to draw that will keep a week, 102 - a rich one, 103 - veal, 104 - soup, 95 - - _Green_, to stain jellies, ices, or cakes, 203 - - _Grouse_, 82 - to pot them, 82 - - - H. - - _Haddock_, 14 - stuffing for, 16 - - _Hams_, to cure, 61 - another way, 61 - another way, 62 - another way, that gives a higher flavour, 62 - a method of giving a still higher flavour, 62 - a pickle for them that will keep for years, 68 - to dress, 63 - - _Hares_, 22 - to prepare and dress, 90 - to jug an old one, 91 - broiled and hashed, 92 - pie, 91 - potted, 91 - soup, 91, 99 - - _Harrico_, 70 - - _Harslet_, 67 - - _Hartshorn_ jelly, 167 - - _Heart_, beef, 42 - - _Hearths_, (the inner) to clean, 271 - another way, 271 - - _Herrings_, baked, 8 - broiled, 9 - fried, 9 - to smoke, 8 - (red) to dress, 8 - - _Hessian_ soup and ragout, 35 - the ragout, 36 - - _Hog’s cheeks_, to dry, 63 - head, to make excellent meat of, 56 - lard, 67 - puddings, white, 66 - - _Hotch potch_, an excellent one, 74 - another, 75 - - _Hunter’s_ beef, 81 - pudding, 152 - - - I. - - _Icing_, for tarts, 211 - for cakes, 212 - - _Ice_ waters, 210 - currant or raspberry, 210 - brown bread, 211 - to make the, 211 - creams, 210 - colours for staining them, 203 - - _Imperial_, 242 - cream, 167 - - _India_ pickle, 118 - - _Irons_, to preserve them from rust, 271 - - - J. - - _Jelly_ to cover cold fish, 103 - - Other _Jellies_ are under the names of the different principal articles - they are made of; as _Calf’s feet_ jelly, &c. - colours for staining, &c., 203 - - _Junket_, Devonshire, 161 - - - K. - - _Kidney_, veal, 46 - pudding, 151 - - _Kitchen_ pepper, 116 - - - L. - - _Lamb_, fore quarter, 76 - fry, 76 - head and hinge, 76 - leg and loin, 75 - steaks, 72 - steaks and cucumbers, 74 - - _Lamprey_, to stew, as at Worcester, 1 - - _Lard_, 67 - - _Leek_ soup, Scotch, 99 - - _Lemons_, to keep for puddings, &c., 186 - to preserve in jelly, 207 - cheesecakes, 184 - another, 185 - cream, yellow without cream, 163 - white ditto, 164 - custards, 159 - drops, 203 - honeycomb, 171 - juice, to keep, 209 - pickle, 112 - - _Lemon_, pudding, an excellent one, 143 - sauce, 108 - syrup, 247 - water, 254 - - _Lemonade_, 254 - to be made a day before wanted, 239 - another way, 240 - - _Lent_ potatoes, 160 - - _Light_, or German puddings, 145 - - _Liver_ sauce, 109 - - _Lobsters_, buttered, 7 - curry of them, 7 - patties, 134 - pie, 7 - to pot them, 6 - another way, as at Wood’s hotel, 6 - sallad, 128 - sauce, 107 - another way, 107 - stewed, as a very high relish, 7 - - _Lookingglasses_, to clean, 273 - - - M. - - _Macaroons_, 224 - - _Mackerel_, boiled, 3 - broiled, 3 - collared, 3 - potted, 3 - pickled, 3 - pickled, called caveach, 4 - - _Magnum bonum_ plums, 204 - - _Mahogany_, to give a fine colour to, 274 - - _Maids_, 17 - - _Marble_, to take stains out of, 275 - - _Marmalade_, apple, 177 - orange, 198 - quince, 199 - transparent, 207 - Marrow bones, 38 - - _Mawskins_, to cure, for rennet, 233 - - MEATS, 20 to 76 - observations on dressing, 20 - (roast) rice boiled to eat with, 136 - - _Melon_ mangoes, 121 - - _Milkporridge_, for the sick, 255 - French, 255 - - _Milkpunch_, 246 - - _Millet_ pudding, 153 - - _Mincepie_, 134 - without meat, 135 - lemon, 135 - egg, 135 - patties resembling, 134 - - _Mock turtle_, 49 - a cheaper way, 50 - forcemeat as for turtle, at the Bush, Bristol, 50 - another forcemeat for balls or patties, 51 - another, 51 - another, 52 - - _Moor_ game, to pot, 82 - - _Moor_ hen to roast, 83 - - _Morella_ cherries, to preserve, 209 - - _Muffins_, 227 - - _Mulled_ wine, 262 - - _Mushrooms_, to dry, 115 - an excellent way to pickle, to preserve the flavour, 124 - to stew, 127 - powder, 114 - - _Mustard_, to make, 118 - another way for immediate use, 118 - - _Mutton_, to choose, 22 - - _Mutton_, breast, 73 - broth, 250 - Scotch, 100 - collops, 70 - cutlets in the Portuguese way, 75 - ham, 75 - harrico, 70 - haunch, 69 - , an excellent hotch potch, 74 - another, 75 - legs, 69 - , rolled loin, 74 - necks, 69 - pie, 71 - and potatoe pie, 71 - pudding, 71 - sausages, 71 - shoulder, boiled with oysters, 73 - steaks, 72 - - _Mutton_, steaks of, or lamb and cucumbers, 74 - - - N. - - _Nasturtions_, to pickle for capers, 123 - - _New college_ puddings, 146 - - _Norfolk_ punch, 247 - - - O. - - _Oatmeal_ pudding, 144 - - _Omlet_, 136 - - _Onions_, pickled, 121 - , to roast, 125 - sauce, 109 - , sliced with cucumbers, 122 - , another way, 122 - soup, 97 - , to stew, 125 - - _Orangeade_, 254 - - _Orange_ butter, 131 - cakes, 208 - cheesecakes, 185 - chips, 208 - fool, 171 - jelly, 167 - juice, buttered, 173 - pudding, 143 - another, 143 - another, 143 - syrup, 247 - tart, 179 - - _Oranges_, to butter, 173 - to keep, for puddings, &c., 186 - , to prepare to put into puddings, 195 - preserved, to fill; a corner dish, 178 - - _Oranges_, to preserve in jelly, 207 - - _Orgeat_, 254 - to make, 239 - , another way, 239 - - _Oxcheek_ stewed, plain, 36 - to dress it another way, 37 - rump soup, 100 - - _Oxford_ dumplings, 147 - - _Oysters_, fried, to garnish boiled fish, 15 - , to pickle, 15 - another way, 15 - , scalloped, 14 - , to stew, 14 - patties, or small pie, 14 - , patties, 133 - , sauce, 110 - , sauce to beef steaks, 32 - - - P. - - _Paint_, to clean, 272 - - _Panada_, made in five minutes, 252 - another, 253 - another, 253 - chicken, 250 - - _Pancakes_, common, 181 - fine ones, fried without butter or lard, 182 - Irish, 181 - of rice, 181 - - _Paperhangings_, to clean, 272 - - _Parsley_ pie, 88 - - _Parsnips_, to mash, 129 - - _Partridges_, to roast, 77 - , potted, 77 - , a very economical way, 78 - , sauce for them cold, 106 - - _Pastes_, light, for tarts and cheesecakes, 139 - , potatoe, 141 - See also the article _Crust_. - - PASTRY, 132 to 142 - - _Pasty_, venison, 25, 26 - , an imitation of, 27 - , of beef or mutton to eat as well as venison, 24 - - _Patties_, sweet, 134 - , resembling mincepies, 134 - , fried, 133 - , Others are under the names of the articles they are made of. - , forcemeat for, 132 - - _Peaches_ in brandy, 195 - - _Pears_, stewed, 174 - , baked, 174 - , dried, 175 - - _Peas_ (old) soup, 94 - , to stew, 127 - (green), to keep, 129 - another way, as practised in the emperor of Russia’s kitchen, 130 - - _Peas_, to stew, 124 - , soup, 94 - - _Pepper_, kitchen, 116 - - _Peppermint_ drops, 203 - - _Perch_ and tench, 3 - - _Pettitoes_, 58 - - _Pewter_ (patent) porterpots, to clean, 271 - - _Pheasants_, to roast, 77 - - PICKLES, 118 to 124 - , that will keep for years, for hams, tongues, or beef, 68 - , are under the names of the articles pickled. - - PIES, 88 to 90 - , are under the names of the principal articles they are made of; as - _Apple_ pie, &c. - - _Pig’s_ cheek for boiling, 58 - collared head, 59 - feet and ears, different ways of dressing, 60 - fricassee, 60 - harslet, 67 - jelly of feet and ears, 60 - - _Pigeons_ broiled, 88 - in jelly, 86 - to pickle, 86 - pie, 87 - potted, 87 - roast, 88 - stewed, 85 - , another way, 86 - - _Pike_, baked, 4 - , stuffing for, 16 - - _Pippin_ pudding, 157 - tarts, 177 - , stewed golden, 175 - - _Plaice_, an excellent way of dressing a large one, 11 - - _Plate_, to clean, 273 - - _Plumcake_, 213 - another, 214 - very good common ones, 220 - little ones, to keep long, 221 - - _Plum pudding_, common, 152 - - _Podovies_, or beef patties, 34 - - POOR PERSONS, HINTS RESPECTING THEIR RELIEF, 264 to 268 - - _Pork_, to roast a leg, 59 - to boil a leg, 60 - to pickle, 64 - to salt for eating immediately, 27 - jelly, Dr. Ratcluff’s restorative, 249 - steaks, 61 - loins and necks, roast, 67 - rolled neck, 68 - - _Porker’s_ head, roasted, 58 - - _Portable soup_, a very useful thing, 101 - - _Potatoes_, to boil, 128 - to broil, 129 - to roast, 129 - to fry, 129 - to mash, 129 - cheesecakes, 185 - Lent, 160 - pastry, 142 - pasty, 88 - pudding with meat, 150 - pudding, an excellent plain one, 153 - rolls, 228 - - _Potting_ birds, a very economical way of, 78 - to clarify butter for potted things, 78 - - POULTRY, 76 to 88 - - _Pound cake_, good, 217 - - _Prawns_, curry of, 7 - soup, 101 - - _Prune_ tart, 178 - - PUDDINGS, 142 to 159 - observations on making them, 159 - a quick made one, 158 - in haste, 146 - a cheap and not troublesome one, to give away to poor sick or young - families, 264 - , Others are under the names of the principal articles they are made - of, or their first names; as _Bread_ pudding, _Light_ pudding, &c. - - _Puff_ paste, rich, 138 - less rich, 138 - German, another way, 138 - , to prepare apples for, 176 - , of any sorts of fruit, 180 - , excellent light ones, 157 - , curd, 156 - - _Punch_, milk, 246 - Norfolk, 247 - - - Q. - - _Queen_ cakes, 218 - , another way, 218 - - _Quickmade_ pudding, 158 - - - R. - - _Rabbits_, 22 - , various ways, 92 - , to make them taste much like a hare, 92 - potted, 93 - (roast) a very good sauce for them, 109 - - _Raised_ crust for custards or fruit, 140 - , for meatpies or fowls, &c., 140 - pies, to prepare meat or fowls for them, 90 - - _Raisinwine_, with cider, 245 - , without cider, 245 - - _Ramakins_, 137 - - _Raspberry_ brandy, 246 - cakes, 194 - cream, 172 - jam, 193 - , another way, 194 - jelly, for ices or creams, 194 - vinegar, 240 - vinegarwater, 254 - water ice, 210 - wine, 241 - , another way, 241 - and currant tart, 180 - - _Ratafia_, 246 - - _Red_, a beautiful one, to stain jellies, ices, or cakes, 203 - herrings, to dress, 8 - - _Rennet_, to cure mawskins, for, 233 - - _Restorative_, a great one, 248 - another, 248 - another, 248 - another most pleasant draught, 248 - - _Rhubarb_ tart, 180 - - _Rice_, savory, 136 - boiled to eat with curry or roast meat, 130 - buttered, 136 - cake, 223 - , another, 223 - caudle, 261 - - _Rice_ caudle, for the sick, 225 - flummery, 160 - milk, 171 - , ground rice milk, 260 - piecrust, 150 - pasty crust, 141 - _pudding_, baked, 149 - , another, for the family, 149 - Dutch, 145 - with fruit, 149 - , plain, 149 - , rich, 152 - small, 148 - ground, 159 - - _Roasting_ meat, observations on, 21 - fowls, 22 - hares and rabbits, 22 - - _Rolls_, excellent ones, 228 - , Brentford, 227 - , French, 227 - , potatoe, 228 - - _Rusks_, 222 - - _Russian seed_ pudding, 159 - - - S. - - _Sack_ cream, 162 - - _Saffron_ cakes, 228 - - _Sago_, to prepare, 260 - to prepare to give away to poor families, 267 - milk, 171, 260 - pudding, 142 - - _Sallad_, French, 128 - , lobster, 128 - - _Salmon_, to boil, 4 - , no vinegar to be boiled with it, 18 - to pickle, 5 - to broil, 5 - to pot, 5 - to dry, 5 - - _Saloop_, 264 - - _Sanders_, 39 - - SAUCES, 104 to 111 - robart, for rumps or steaks, 106 - a very good sauce especially to hide the bad colour of fowls, 109 - Other sauces are under the names of different dishes, or of the - principal articles the sauces are made of. - - _Sausages_, mutton, 71 - , pork, 64 - , Spadbury’s Oxford, 65 - , veal, 56 - , an excellent sausage to eat cold, 65 - - _Scotch collops_, 46 - - _Seed cake_, a cheap one, 216 - , another, 217 - - SERVANTS, USEFUL DIRECTIONS TO GIVE TO THEM, 269 to 276 - - _Shalot_ vinegar, 112 - - _Shank_ jelly, 251 - - _Shelford_ pudding, 155 - - _Shrewsbury cakes_, 219 - - _Shrimp_ pie excellent, 88 - sauce, 108 - - _Shrub_, white currant, 247 - - SICK PERSONS, COOKERY FOR, 247 to 264 - - _Skate_, 16 - crimp, 17 - - _Smelts_, to fry, 12 - - _Snow balls_, 151 - cream, 169 - - _Soals_, boiled, 9 - fried, 9 - stewed, 10 - in the Portuguese way, 10 - stuffing for soals baked, 10 - pie, another sort of stuffing, 11 - - _Sorrel_, to stew, for fricandeau and roast meat, 127 - sauce, 54 - - SOUPS, 93 to 102 - à-la-sap, 100 - , a rich white one, 96 - , a plainer white one, 97 - , an excellent soup, 97 - , a baked one, to give away to poor families, 265 - , for the weakly, for the same purpose, 267 - , Other soups are under the names of the principal articles they are - made of. - - _Souster_, 144 - - _Spadbury’s_ Oxford sausages, 65 - - _Spinach_, to stew, 126 - French way, 126 - soup, 98 - - _Sprats_, 16 - , baked, 8 - , to make them taste like anchovies, 117 - - _Spongecake_, 224 - another, without butter, 224 - - _Steak_ pudding, 151 - - _Steel_, to take rust out of, 272 - - STEWS, 124 to 127 - - _Stone_ stairs and halls, to clean, 272 - - _Stoves_, to take the black off the bright bars in a few minutes, 270 - to clean the back of the grate, the inner hearth, and the front of - cast iron stoves, 271 - another way, 271 - - _Strawberries_, to preserve them whole, 197 - another way, 198 - - _Stuffing_ for pike, haddock, &c., 16 - for soals baked - another sort, 11 - - _Stuffing_, forcemeat for, 132 - - _Sturgeon_, to dress fresh, 16 - an excellent imitation of sturgeon, 19 - - _Sucking pig_, to scald, 57 - , to roast, 57 - - _Suet_, to preserve it a twelve month, 40 - pudding, 151 - dumplings, 151 - - _Suffolk_ dumplings, 158 - - _Sugar_, to clarify, 191 - - _Supper_, small dishes for, 131, 132 - , a pretty sweet supper dish, 169 - - SWEET DISHES, 159 to 186 - - _Sweetbreads_, 55 - , ragout, 56 - - _Sweetmeats_, observations on, 190 - , a very fine crust for them, when to be particularly nice, 139 - , a carmel cover for sweetmeats, 206 - , excellent sweetmeats for tarts, when fruit is plentiful, 193 - - _Syllabub_, London, 161 - , Staffordshire, 161 - , a very fine Somersetshire one, 162 - , everlasting or solid, 163 - - - T. - - _Table Beer_, excellent, to brew, 237 - - _Tansey_, 181 - - _Tapioca_ jelly, 260 - - _Tarts_, icing for them, 211 - Tarts are under the names of the principal articles they are made of; - as _Codlin_ tarts, &c. - - _Teacakes_, 219 - , Benton, 220 - , another sort, as biscuit, 220 - , another sort, 220 - - _Teal_, to roast, 83 - - _Tench_, 3 - broth, 251 - - _Thornback_, 16 - - _Tin covers_, to clean, 271 - - _Toast and water_, for the sick, 254 - - _Tongues_, to pickle for boiling, 41 - another way, 41 - , a pickle for them, that will keep for years, 68 - , an excellent mode of doing them to eat cold, 42 - , stewed, 42 - , and udder, to roast, 40 - - _Trifle_, an excellent one, 170 - , a froth to set on, which looks and eats well, 162 - - _Tripe_, 42 - - _Tunbridge cakes_, 225 - - _Turbot_, to boil, 1 - pie, 11 - - _Turkey_, to boil, 70 - an excellent sauce for it boiled, 106 - to roast, 76 - pulled, 77 - patties, 77 - - _Turnip_ pie, 88 - soup, 93 - - _Turtles_, little eggs for them, 111 - - - U. - - _Udder_ and tongue, to roast, 40 - - - V. - - _Veal_, breast of, 47 - rolled breast, 48 - broth, 259 - very nourishing, 249 - collops, 45 - collops of cold, 45 - fricandeau, 54 - gravy, 104 - knuckle, 43 - leg, 43 - neck, 47 - olives, 55 - patties, 54 - , potted, _at bottom_, 46 - , to pot, with ham, 47 - sausages, 56 - shoulder, 48 - - _Vegetables_, 128 to 131 - , to boil them green, 131 - soup, 98 - , another, 98 - - _Venison_, to keep, 23 - , to dress, 23 - hashed, 27 - haunch, neck, &c., 25 - , stewed shoulder, 25 - , to prepare for pasty, 25 - pasty, 26 - , crust for, 141 - , an imitation of venison pasty, 27 - to make a pasty of beef or mutton, to eat as well as venison, 24 - - _Verder_, or milk punch, 246 - - _Vinegar_, camp, 112 - gooseberry, 116 - raspberry, 240 - shalot, 112 - sugar, 115 - wine, 116 - - _Vingaret_, for cold fowl or meat, 107 - - - W. - - _Wafers_, 224 - - _Walnuts_, to pickle, 123 - - _Water_ cakes, 223 - - _Whey_, 257 - - _Whey_, white wine for the sick, 257 - vinegar and lemon, 257 - - _White_, to stain jellies, ices, or cakes, 203 - , hogs puddings, 66 - sauce, 104 - - _Widgeon_, to roast, 83 - - _Wine_, to refine, 238 - roll, 170 - , mulled, 262 - a rich and pleasant, 244 - Several sorts of made wine are under the different names; as - _Currant_ wine, &c. - - - Y. - - _Yeast_, to make, 229 - another way, 229 - , to preserve, 230 - or Suffolk dumplings, 158 - - _Yellow_, to stain jellies, ices or cakes, 203 - - _Yorkshire_ cake, 228 - pudding, 158 - - THE END. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - _Just published, and for sale by W. ANDREWS, No. 1, Cornhill_, Boston, - - - - - JOHNSON’S DICTIONARY - - OF THE - - _ENGLISH LANGUAGE, IN MINIATURE_. - - To which are added, an alphabetical account of the - - HEATHEN DEITIES, - - AND A - - COPIOUS CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF - - _Remarkable Events, Discoveries, and Inventions_. - - _By the Rev._ JOSEPH HAMILTON, M. A. - - _SECOND AMERICAN EDITION._ - - - ADVERTISEMENT - - TO THE - - _ENGLISH EDITION_. - - -The rapid sale of the thirteen former Editions of this Dictionary, has -induced the Editor to comply with the desires of the public, in -preparing another impression for the press. To copy the best examples is -not only the necessary resource of the writers of the present age, but -it exhibits, at the same time, a proof of their modesty and discernment. -This remark extends to authors in almost every department of science and -morals: but it is peculiarly applicable to the Editor of a Dictionary. -If a word has been once explained with accuracy, and its various -meanings discriminated with critical acumen, nothing remains for a -succeeding writer, but to collect and arrange the labours of his -predecessors, in a manner which coincides with his own particular plan. -Such is the use which has been made in the present work of the laborious -and celebrated compilation of Dr. JOHNSON, which is the most perfect -model in its kind. And if this task has been performed with only common -industry and care, it will follow that this small volume contains in -substance the quintessence of lexicography, and is adapted for every -purpose as a book of reference. It has also this superior advantage, -that the more obsolete excrescences of JOHNSON, and other eminent -lexicographers, are here exchanged for many additional scientific and -literary terms not current in their time. In fact, no pains have been -spared to render this work as complete as its limits would admit. - -An epitome of the Heathen Mythology follows the Dictionary, more copious -and correct than has hitherto appeared in any similar production; and -the Chronology annexed exhibits the general outlines of ancient and -modern history. - - J. H. - - HEMEL HEMSTED, - June 1, 1799. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - - - - - TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES - - - 1. P. 72, changed “vege-” to “vegetables.” - 2. P. 103, changed “suf-” to “suffer”. - 3. Silently corrected obvious typographical errors and variations in - spelling. - 4. Retained archaic, non-standard, and uncertain spellings as printed. - 5. 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