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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..142cf8d --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #69407 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/69407) diff --git a/old/69407-0.txt b/old/69407-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 99999b6..0000000 --- a/old/69407-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3818 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of Outposts of Asia, by Morilla Maria -Norton - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: Outposts of Asia - -Author: Morilla Maria Norton - -Release Date: November 22, 2022 [eBook #69407] - -Language: English - -Produced by: The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at - https://www.pgdp.net (This book was produced from images - made available by the HathiTrust Digital Library.) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OUTPOSTS OF ASIA *** - - - - - - OUTPOSTS - _of_ - ASIA - - - _By_ - - MORILLA MARIA NORTON - - _Author of_ - - Songs of the Pacific - A Kingdom of the Sea - Verses from the Orient - Gloria Victis - - [Illustration] - - - THE MAGNET PUBLISHING CO. - MANILA, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS - - - - - COPYRIGHT, 1909 - MORILLA MARIA NORTON - MANILA, PHILIPPINES - - - - - To M. B. N. - - - Great Mother, dead but living, - Living but dead, - The snow falls fast, - In this death month of all the year. - White flakes like messengers - Sent upon the blast, - From Heaven to light upon thy bier. - - Like this death month of Nature - Such thou wert and art; - Cold with unsullied purity of will, - White with the soul’s austerity of charity, - Yet holding all the flames - Of summer’s glory in thy heart. - - Yokohama - January 7, 1909 - - - - - _FOREWORD_ - - -In writing this book of a journey through Manchuria, Korea and Japan, -it is partly a tribute to the hospitality of the Imperial Railway -through whose kindness I made the picturesque tour on the track of the -fighting line across countries on which so much attention has been -focused in these last years, partly to fulfill a pledge made to the -Manila Merchants Association, to write in a book of travel through -Russia a chapter on Manila, which chapter is the last in the volume. - -Among the few treasures which the traveler feels he must carry away -from that land of art--Japan--the writer chose a kakemono representing -the grim old fighter Ieyasu dressed in his stiff brocade of choice -pattern which the elegance of his life demanded. - -He sits not on horse, nor in palanquin, but at ease and in reflective -mood in his home, his queer head-dress arching out from his falcon-like -head, holding in one hand a sword even in this hour of leisure, ready -to spring upon his country’s foes, in the other hand a roll of paper, -for he was like the great Charlemagne, a man of letters, as well as of -battles. - -Sensitive, fine and piercing as a blade, is his glance, delicate as -a woman in the finish of his attitude, yet commanding, imperious, -indomitable and over all and through all, a scholar, not in the -infinitesimal detail of the school, but in the magnificent sense -of life, one who learns from all experience and progresses through -everything and acquires in every phase of fortune and misfortune, -leaving to the world the priceless inheritance of such scholarship, -hope, faith--nay, charity! What Ieyasu was, so to me seems his race, -imbued with the large serenity which grasps ages, not minutes; it can -conquer, or be conquered, with equal grace, without self-elation, or -self-abasement, but with the majestic nature of the true theist and the -true altruist advances to its destiny reaching as does all greatness -its maturity slowly, until it becomes the master of itself and of -others. - -The ethical beauty of the home life of Japan, the charming routine of -the schools, the fraternal relations in the army and navy, the courtesy -between master and servant, in the factory and the shop, and in the -home is all delightful to see, and the welcome to the stranger, that -finest flower of civilization, as of character, to feel! - -The soft grey coloring, the subdued green, the reserve of forest and -field, unlike our own exuberant Philippines, at first seem shy, demure, -not a little austere, but as you pass the days and nights there the -subtle influence of the Northern Italy works its miracle and you yield -as every one has before you, captivated by an influence too complex to -define. Japan has the “charme intime,” as the French say, the charm -which penetrates but holds forever. - -Massive, Greek-like Korea and colossal Manchuria, bold, daring as the -fastnesses of Asia are, overwhelm the imagination and leave you stirred -to their heroic level! - -But a glimpse, a panorama of these graphic countries is all these pages -can bring. - -Each has a magnetism one must experience, and as one New Englander said -of his native town, it needs no pennies in their fountains to call you -back to retread their sublime and lofty pinnacles, or their exquisite -by-paths. - -These pages were for the most part published in the daily press of -Japan, and were written “en voyage” or within the hospitable doors of -the Astor House, Seoul and the Bluff Hotel in Yokohama. They form notes -of travel rather than a conventional book. - - - - - _CONTENTS_ - - - PORT ARTHUR 9 - - MOUKDEN 17 - - MANCHURIA 23 - - SEOUL 29 - - JAPANESE IN KOREA 37 - - TOKYO AND ITS MAYOR 43 - - JAPANESE RAILWAYS 49 - - MADAME SHIMODA 55 - - PEERESS’ SCHOOL 61 - - KANEKO 67 - - EXPOSITION NOTES 75 - - BARON TAKAHASHI 81 - - TOKYO OBSERVATORY 85 - - GOVERNMENT STEEL FOUNDRY 91 - - JAPAN IN NOVEMBER 95 - - MANILA AND THE PHILIPPINES 101 - - - - - PORT ARTHUR - - -Port Arthur is the most dramatic spot away from Europe: nothing that -Nature can do, or history suggest of grandeur is lacking in this -stupendous panorama! - -Hills which have been swept bare by shot and shell are still bare and -will be as the palm of the hand, to denote what has passed over them! - -A huge fortress-like eminence suggesting Gibraltar, stands out like the -champion of the army before the series of forts which lie behind it. - -There are two bays, “Pigeon Bay” and “Kerr Bay,” which have dimpled -waters of sparkling blue and admit ships on both sides of this gigantic -promontory. - -As you leave the station, you find yourself facing a long stretch of -unkempt ground, over which the new town is being erected inland. - -Further behind lie the cliffs, rising one within another, with a series -of natural fortifications, one of which has begun its immortal fame, -“203 Metres Hill.” - -Its sides are covered with huge stones, piled in volcanic confusion, -partly by nature, partly by the concussion of balls. - -This point, as all remember, was surrounded by a barbed wire fence and -heaps of sand bags. - -On one edge men passed over living flesh and dying flesh, their hands -torn from the sockets, as they mounted up a perpendicular side of some -three hundred feet. - -The hills on the land side are well covered with the rough and tumble -of the up-torn rocks, pieces of bone and rusty implements and the torn -sand bags are still there. Seventeen thousand men fell on this hill and -it took five days to capture it. - -Once on top after a climb of some twenty minutes of slow scrambling, -like the ascent of the pyramids, you reach the summit. Then you realize -why Russia wanted to keep it and Japan to win it at any cost. It is a -center of billowy hills on the land side and of the whole sweep of bays -and promontories stretching out towards the Yellow Sea and Pechilli Bay. - -Port Arthur is the sharp beak of the promontory, which cuts into two -waters and can guard the lands of Japan, Korea and China. As you stand -then on the top of “203 Metres Hill” you have at your back hills, -in the front the towns, the circling mountains about the water, the -advanced cliffs of the defensive works and the bays and the sea. Your -guns can command any point and your view has every detail before it. -You are, as I remember, about one mile and a half from town. - -This latter is composed of a small park from which the adorning center -has been removed, whether in disgrace as offensive to non-classical -taste or not I do not know. - -The Civil Office building is new or repaired and not specially -attractive as the Japanese do not seem to care to put beauty in their -public buildings. A new and very elaborate hotel soon to be opened, is -being put up. - -This is made out of concrete and stone, quarried, I believe, out of the -near-by mountains. The roads leave everything to be desired; they are -full of ruts and must be horrible in the rainy months. - -The Czar’s mother built the “Red Cross Hospital” whose gigantic -outlines of red warm the heart during the frozen months of a Manchurian -winter. - -Vice Admiral Hashimoto and his lovely family live in a palatial -residence, while set in wide gardens at only a few feet away is the -steep descent to the gate of the navy yard, where you can stroll about -with a guide seeing sunken ships being repaired and the “Amur,” one -of Russia’s relics lying on her side, kept there as a reminder of the -dreadful days gone. - -Shops full of busy workmen are alongside and the little men who are -hard at work to the ceaseless blows of the hammer, bob about blithely -at their tasks, getting ready for another conflict. - -Far up over one’s head, on the terraced gardens, I saw a marquise and -asked what it had been used for. - -It was the Russian bandstand, where every evening the Russians played -their national airs; now only the breeze blows its requiem there, for -“dead souls.” - -Nearby is the “Army and Navy Club” at whose inviting door I bade good -bye to the American Consul who had so gallantly chaperoned me for the -day. - -The visit to Port Arthur for a lady alone, would not be agreeable. We -had the pleasure of meeting the commanding general, Membo Camio, and he -told us about his two dogs and they were introduced, one of them his -special favorite, “a left over” from Russian occupation! - -Dog lovers know no geographical lines and his most interesting face -took on that peculiar “love me, love my dog” look seen on the faces of -those devoted to canine pets. - -It was an easy task for me and while they talked diplomatic -compliments, I talked dog. - -I told General Camio of a friend in Manila who possessed one from the -Russian fleet, a beautiful collie, given her from off the fugitive -Russian ships. How also on the Fourth of July the sensitive creature -crept away to avoid hearing the firing, which brings to mind that awful -day. - -We were provided with a guide, by the kindness of the general, to the -war museum and to General Stossel’s house. - -This residence was and is a very plain one, not very large, set on a -single hill commanding a view over the forts and town opposite and is -opposite the new palace of the civil governor. - -General Nakamura, who was acting governor of Manchuria, a most affable -and agreeable personality, did us voluntarily a great service, which -he anticipated the moment we came into the room. He gave us our return -pass to Fusan, as Baron Goto of the South Manchurian Railway was away -from his home in Dalny. - -The delicate way the Japanese, in their kindness even think for one, is -wonderful. - -“’Twas fated I should seek this battle field and here above the -multitudinous dead, be the white victim, growing daily whiter. The -breath of death has rustled thru my hair! The shudder of death has -passed athwart my soul! I am all white, a sacrificial host!” - -So felt the Duke of Reichstadt at Wagram, so feels every noble soul at -Port Arthur. It is for humanity, an altar of blood and fire! - -The fields have been put under the plow, but labor cannot wait. - -The necessities of existence have, perhaps fortunately, no sentiment. -Parts of our road are blasted thru the solid rock. We move towards -the battle field, watching alternately the dismantled homes and the -primitive methods of agriculture. Some buildings are left as wrecks. -The configuration grows every mile more sinister. In a distant low -roofed building we are told that General Stoessel surrendered but it is -all a dream; we are seeking something. There on the horizon! Yes, it -rises! Calm as at creation’s dawn, when its Maker saw this hour. “203 -Metres Hill”! Name forever immortal! - -Oh, the sublimity of the view over that billowy plain from its summit! -There “Pigeon Bay” and “Kerr Bay.” The monuments of Russia’s generosity -and Japan’s gratitude. - -We visited the war museum and the Administration buildings. The blue of -that day’s sky, so blue, with the glory of the sun on the “Golden Hill” -and the “Tiger’s Tail” forts but the hosts were visible to the unseen -eye, the cries of agony and victory were in our ears and in the garden -of General Stoessel we found growing the flowers so thoughtless, or so -healing of it all! The flowers which have no memory! - - “Les fleurs nont pas de memoire, - Nouvelles dans un monde ancien!” - -General Stoessel’s house has still one room, kept as it was with some -startling brocade furniture, but the other rooms are being turned into -offices, I believe, of the war department. - -Our minds were filled with an awful pathos as we wandered about and the -light jests of our companions did not seem in place. The garden was -much as it was, doubtless a tangle of marigolds and astors, and we were -told to carry away as much as our arms would hold, which we did. Ah, -nature, how little thou dost care! - -The war museum has a fence surrounding it which shows every kind of -defense in the way of crossed spikes and barbed wire and other sorts of -infernal devices used in sieges. - -Inside you can see war accoutrements, garments, implements, dynamos, -bombs, machines of every sort to destroy, until the mind sickens. - -Plans of now disused forts show how they were taken, where blown up, -where tunneled; earthworks and redoubts we passed on our way over -and all the ingenious ways are still there of how men can protect -themselves from death and deal out death to each other. - -I never heard once either in Japan or Manchuria, or Port Arthur, where -pride, military pride, if ever, would be admissible, one word of -boasting and one little Jap said at Port Arthur, “The Russians need -never be ashamed of Port Arthur. To the everlasting disgrace be it of a -nation which will punish men for doing as well as they could.” - -To view this remarkable place which will be in time one of the great -tourist points of the East, one need count no fatigue too great. - -No trip in Europe offers more grandeur both in natural setting and -historic significance. - - Marathon, salute thy peers. The years have taken much, but left us men, - Men of thy stature, O, Sophocles, who asked the fairest boon, - To die like heroes, even if to taste life were still denied, - Thinking with scorn of late, or soon, the now, or then. - Empires may lose their monarchs and renown, - But never to be forgotten is this hill, dyed in the purple of man’s - supreme nobility, - For here the Hand which balances each crown, - Placed forevermore a diadem of heroes, on brothers death mowed down. - - (Written on “203 Metres Hill”) - - [Illustration] - - - - - MOUKDEN - - -The mountain effects as you near Moukden, are every day finer. The -august abysses and the tremendous onward sweep of the track, the -seemingly impossible turns and cavernous leaps are all indescribable! - -As you near the city of Moukden you see a saddle-shaped height to which -the contending armies of the last war climbed and fought. - -On one height you also see a shaft commemorative of the Japanese dead. -All is prophetic of what is beyond. - -Moukden is at the heart of China with Port Arthur and Harbin about -equally distant. A strongly fortified place, a strategic point of China -life and politics and of a value well known to her friends and her -enemies! - -Pekin is but two days away and the stone wall of wonderful fame but -twenty hours, and what means more than all to this traveler, we are -but one night’s ride from Port Arthur, over a good road which is being -double tracked and is to be furnished shortly with first class American -cars! - -Moukden is built on a vast plain and has a horizon line worthy of the -plains of Dakota. A wall of truly Chinese dimensions encloses the -traffic which goes on with the usual Chinese volubility. A wide and new -boulevard is being made by the Japanese, running from the station to -the ancient city. This has a modern look, but not so what passes along -it! Such a motley array of human clothes and shapes! - -It is indeed a Vanity Fair. The huge Manchurians with a “devil may -care” air. The Japanese looking anxious and uneasy at so much to be -done. - -The ox carts with strange passengers inside them! The jinrickshas with -their Chinese runners with more “devil may care manners”! The street -hucksters, the few Europeans and the rich natives with their coolies, -the stir of one of the busiest cities of the East and one of the most -original, that all makes Moukden! - -The recruits are exercising out in front of the American consulate -and raw they are, but quick, and the military steps are fast becoming -familiar to them. - -An ancient pagoda surely contemporary with David is on this street: -this Parisian boulevard of Moukden, and much we wondered at its stone -form of concrete and its top of bronze, a crescent and ball! - -Around the unique buildings of the consulate extends the plain, by -turns dusty or muddy, according to the season. - -Our delight was the moonlight on the consulate! The court so imposing, -with its grotesque animals and its Chinese queerness! The rare old -Chinese windows and at evening time, the watchman “beating the fish,” -sounding a rattle to warn away all intruders! - -The especial beauty of a real oriental house and furnishings; this one, -set in the heart of China, has as delightful a flavor as one may meet. - -The tombs of the Emperors of the Manchu dynasty, the men rather, who -founded the reigning house, are of fitting elaborateness. They too, -like the palaces of Seoul, are falling to decay. - -The one I went to see on a chilly autumn afternoon, was set in a park -of considerable dimensions guarded by the ever faithful stone dogs. -These faithful animals have kept the palaces intact and the sleepers -in their tombs for centuries! - -We watched the old stern-faced tho not unkindly woods-men cutting the -winter fodder in the over-grown grounds. They work while the emperors -sleep and how much more impressive they are! - -A huge gate as usual meets us at the entrance to the enclosure; indeed, -two gates. - -The tomb itself or rather the shrine before the tomb is approached by -two stately avenues, where the dogs are relieved of their lonely watch -by two horses, two dromedaries and two elephants! - -In a pagoda we saw the mammoth sea horse and on his back the memorial -tablet written in characters none but a scholar’s spectacles could -decipher! - -The gate with its marvelous locks, certainly antedating Pharoah, opens -and we gaze at its ornaments of dragons’ heads, a sort of mask, as we -enter, to the central court, where we look up at the walls and mount -them to get the view and see the four corner towers of brilliant -workmanship and colors. - -Descending, we approach the central shrine by steps of very fine -sculpture and artistic form and are told by our retinue of attendants -that curiosity can go no farther nor veneration for that matter, as the -key is lost! - -The grave itself is beyond all this stone and wood arabesque; it is -without the wall, a simple heap, or mound of earth! - -“Dust to dust,” after all, poor old Manchurian warrior of long ago! - -But as it is autumn in the park, we gathered the red berries and the -men ornamented the jinrickshas with them and we ride home across the -plain in a glory of red that out lasts all. The sun is a perfect disk -magnified by the perspective of the plain into a gigantic size, worthy -of Manchuria, and there is the Japanese flag! May it bring better days -to this land of toil and patience! That is the heart’s wish for this -colossal country of Manchuria! - -Over the mountains sky high, over the plains of Moukden, over more -mountains, and you approach the city of Dalny. There seems a stupendous -realization of Nature in it all, the scene is perfect. Dalny, to use a -histrionic term again, is the “curtain raiser” of Port Arthur. - -The war cloud seems still hovering over it. If you are accustomed to -the birthplaces of national significance you feel it in the air. The -place has a somber air. Built to be a pillar of Russia’s all conquering -power, it was to pass in a few years in an awful avalanche of -disaster to another! - -Across these streets men fought their way and others fled in terror! - -There are places where nothing would astonish you. No miracle but would -seem possible, because a miracle has been. Such a place is Dalny. There -are spots of our earth sanctified by the sublimest emotions possible -to our human nature, above this mortal passing of days: such is Dalny! -Such is Port Arthur! - -At Waterloo, at the Plains of Marathon, on the battle fields where all -our race rose in an hour to another epoch of its stupendous destiny, -what can be said! What is not felt! - -At the entrance of these streets you feel it is other ground, you tread -softly for immortal valor is there before you. You have thoughts of -pride; a pride that wells as a gushing stream, to your heart. Yea, here -men were conquerors, not over a mortal foe, but over Death and Self. -The deadly enemies of men! - -When there has been said this word to fate, “you cannot rob me,” then -all the hearts of men leap to that height and we are for a moment -deified. O glory to the heroes of that hour. - -Russians or Japanese! All were in that sublime sense conquerors! All -shall be forever victors, enshrined in our memory, where we worship the -undying splendor of the soul! - - [Illustration] - - - MOONLIGHT OVER MOUKDEN - - Moon of harvests and of toil she slowly mounts the aged Chinese Sky, - A sky of fairness, alabaster, ivory, like an antique shrine - Of ancient lineage and proud, her charm mingled of the mellow - mystery of joy and tears; - In glory young, though old in years. - - Glories indeed have been, an emperor sleeps within a tomb - Forgotten with the sigh, men breathed in his domain, - Nature and life rebuilt from death to radiant dreams, - Who notes the Past, as tolls the silver chime new hours? - Night speaks and light still streams; - - Around her future like her rays, is mystery, - But as days die, new days begin, of history far mightier: - Great light appears across Time’s pageant, lighting to grander - victory; - Victory deathless as moonbeams, and Love builds temples through - all glooms. - - - - - MANCHURIA - - -“In the increased enthusiasm of Japan in her ardent effort to -strengthen her position in the world, by basing her international -conduct upon the fairest and best tried principles of human progress, -the effort is not free from occasional errors, but the large issue -grows clear in Japan’s mind.” - -The force of such words as these in Mr. Asakawa’s book “Russo-Japanese -Conflict,” I feel as a traveller over four thousand miles of railroad -controlled by Japan, from Yokohama to Port Arthur. If Japan is the -country of loveliness par excellence, and Korea ranking with Greece and -Montenegro, in the dramatic and picturesque, Manchuria is the majestic -climax to both! Antoken, two days ride from Seoul, is the drop curtain -painted in strokes of impressionism, as wonderful an introduction as -the heart could wish to the farther grandeur of Asia. The Yalu has vast -perspectives in its reaches into the heart of the land and moves one as -do all great rivers, as the Neva, the Thames, commercially stupendous, -as well as wide and deep. It seems a colossal boundary separating Korea -from China, but in this respect it fails of its purpose since Japan has -crossed it! The conflict which began near the gates of Pyongyang grows -here more intense in retrospect and you see, still much as they were -used, the sand bags and the remains of the fortifications. Sitting in -a box car, with about twenty Japanese and Manchurians, we watched the -unfolding of the landscape of China at our leisure. Here for the first -time in our four years of the Orient we saw the horse doing his proper -work as we see him in Europe and America. They were drawing the heavy -vans as at home laden with harvest. - -Antoken is a wild, unkempt town sprawling out in many directions, and -is being revolutionized by hard labor, as fast as toil, oriental toil, -can revolutionize it. The gaunt crags, the excavated cliffs, make it -stern in aspect and rather alarm one as to what may lie beyond. The -road seems a toy, but your admiration increases with the square of -the distance, as you wind on into the first “divide” on the edge of -precipices and over chasms for five hours of each day, through scenery -only the passes of the Alps or the Rockies can equal, and although -I have travelled through both, I think in certain aspects this trip -rivals either. The gauge is to be widened in two years and the distance -shortened. I was the guest on my return of the engineer in his private -car, so I had the pleasure of admiring the fruit of his brain with -the man who had conceived it. At the little mountain station where we -passed the night and which is provided with a good Japanese hotel, I -was told that here will be the centre of a health resort, and of course -the game is all any sportsman can desire. At this station we met a -French engineer, on his return to Paris from Tonkin, and his wit and -interest in all he saw did much to enliven the stay. His grey hairs -had not dimmed his delight in the superb panoramas of Nature, and -his enthusiasm was added to our own. These heights covered with the -rich hues of autumn are in fine contrast to the treeless, improvident -mountains of Korea! - -I have regretted not being able to accept an invitation to visit -the American mines in Korea, but as it meant a trip in an ox cart I -felt with Manchuria before me I had all I could have the heroism for. -These mountains of Manchuria are supposed to be unfit for mining. The -first farmyards in our home sense begin, soon out of Antoken, with the -picturesque confusion of the autumn fruits. The soft greens of the -intervals remind us of the country outside of Paris in spring. The cows -and pigs are everywhere and in spite of the swineherds, who reminded -us of our Spanish reading and the story of the “Prodigal Son” most -vividly, they do get in the way of the slowly moving train. One little -black fellow had his last race and fell, as so much rustic valor has -before him, before the wheels we call progress, or Juggernaut according -to our mood. One old swineherd in tatters came to the car door. Never -off the stage have I seen a character so like the quaint creations of -Shakespeare’s dramas. We made him happier with a few persimmons and a -few coins, realizing from his extra crimson nose, that he was indeed -in “a far country.” Now we were as the days wore on climbing ridges, -now descending into abysses, every moment full of awe and of pleasure. -Along one of the slopes I saw a letter carrier with just that easy -lope he has on Broadway: so far gone that humanizes the letter! Caves, -caverns, stupendous effects at every turn, on we climb. The mists on -the heights in early morning are most exquisite. We pass military posts -and one where there are rich coal mines. Being the only European on the -train, and a woman, we are the “chief animal of the show.” We afford -great amusement to the sightseers of Manchuria. Huge woods, men cutting -logs, or at their arduous toil, it is all reciprocated and we part the -best of friends, the sturdy mountaineers and the woman, strange indeed. -They are, in their uncouth way, chivalrous, and as chivalry is dying -out in every country we may yet have to seek it alone in Manchuria! - -At one stopping place, I was attracted by a shrine, of which you see -so many, and as we had an hour’s wait, went to investigate. I fell in -with the native kindness and was asked in with the greatest show of -hospitality to see the interior. It was of course a farm house! How -bare! There was the raised platform where, as in Russia, the family -slept. All was blackened with smoke and all, including the family, -needed a lot of water to bring them to the original color, but the -children were very bright under their coat of dirt and very graceful, -in a way far more attractive than most civilized mannikins. The advent -of a foreigner made an event in the village annals and we soon had -quite an audience of the neighbors. It took us back again to days -of the One who went about doing good. I did not see a church spire -from Antoken to Dalny; am told that there are Catholic missions and a -cathedral in Moukden. The villages are all inclosed in mud walls and -are compact and occasionally one sees a temple much the worse for the -“tooth of time.” - - [Illustration] - - - - - SEOUL - - -If you should fall asleep over a volume of the “Arabian Nights” as I -have done many times in childhood and should awaken in Seoul, you would -not find the transition in the least startling. - -There is no city which could better fit in its glowing pages. Its -coloring is as fantastic as are the episodes of the “thousand and -one nights,” and to be accurate when therein describing its manifold -glories, as I saw them, is to me impossible. - -The editor of one of the very spicy journals which keep the Japanese -busy asked me to give my impressions and when I did, said they were far -and away too poetical and too imaginative for a daily paper, but they -did not approach the reality; not by half! - -There are two railway stations in Seoul and they are modern and very -brisk in their air as we whirled into the second one late at night -after a day’s ride in this wonderland of amber and gold mountains. I -was too sleepy to do aught but fall into the comfortable bed of the -“Astor House,” one of the best kept hotels in the Orient if you refer -to the cuisine. - -The next morning I awoke to find myself up under the shadow of a huge -Chinese wall and beyond were fascinating towers and spires and distant -flag poles of consulates and not many hours were lost before we took -a Sunday morning stroll uphill and thru gigantic gates flashing with -mural paintings of dragons and wild impressionistic colors and weird -symbolism, and found ourselves in front of a Russian church where the -bells were ringing. We entered to the strains of that Slavic harmony -which allures as no other and there we found blond priests, with long -hair, worn in the same way as in the old Greek paintings and the -profile of the angelic Northern saint type; it was a strange paradox -to be in this chapel which represented a power now a removed obstacle -to Japanese dominion, and see its worshipers calmly allowed to go on -singing as of old. “One day they will come singing back again,” said -a bright young American observer. All Korea has two influences very -marked in its civilization, Arabic and Chinese, and a still more unique -aspect of a Grecian tradition. It is all three and Indian above all -three! - -There is something of the wild free stride of all mountain peoples in -their walk as you watch them in their flowing white robes and pot hats -along the highroads and there is a wild glance in the eyes of the men -not fierce, but the glance of some gentle animal untamed. The women, as -all know, are the household drudges and are completely under the thumb -of the male element, having neither name nor station apart from these -very self-important masters. - -They are kept in rich houses quite as in Turkey and they wear a silk -mantle over their faces when in the street. You can see their large -wondering furtive eyes looking out as you pass from station to station, -where the dapper Japanese officials keep them in check. - -They wear the most delicious shoes in the world, these same shy -sisters; they are Turkish and turned up slightly at the toes and are -silk besides, and very dainty in shade. The upper class wear this -flowing garment and the mantle of white silk in the street and the -middle class the green mantle. - -The poorest class, as is so often the case, gives the most picturesque -tone to the city streets and we have had our breath quite taken away by -meeting some woman, whose fancy ran a riot of color which would have -eclipsed Turner himself! - -I was invited to an evening entertainment at one of the hospitals, -where the girls were in their house costume, and it consists of a -bolero jacket and baggy trowsers, or divided skirt, it appeared to be. -Many of the girls were pretty and as animated as one could wish. A -debate was held and for diplomatic reasons I will not give the subject, -but it was as full of fire as a Greek patriot’s and carried on amid the -roars of laughter a school girl’s performance usually meets with. - -One of the faces of the nurses was so beautiful and so pathetic I could -not help remarking on its sublimity and my chief hostess told me a -little of its tragedy. - -The face was minus a nose, which a jealous husband in a moment of -frenzy cut off. - -The woman is a christian and the meek glory of her face will remain one -of the memories of a lifetime. - -No Madonna I ever saw in Europe equals it for sweetness. - -Another inmate of this hospital, so admirably bringing medical aid and -training to Korean women, was a little girl without arms or legs, but -still smiling and happy! - -All the world has heard of the great wave of Christianity which swept -over Korea in these last years and the glory of it belongs to the -rare, very rare men and women, who are there; men and women talented in -letters as in religious devotion and their fame is great, such as Dr. -James Gale and others. - -But oh, the streets of Seoul! Wander up on the citadel and gaze from -its ramparts down on the palace gardens, the new palace where you can -of a morning see the Emperor ride forth to visit his mother’s tomb or -go to meet a distinguished guest as we saw him the morning the Crown -Prince of Japan came, when the brilliant city was decorated with the -magic talent of those past masters of scenic effect, the Japanese. - -By one of the arches we saw the most unique spectacle as the Emperor -and suite and the two young princes side by side swept on in that -silent awe of Oriental homage, so unlike our own. - -We saw Togo and Ito and the others who have made the most brilliant -history of modern times, Togo laughing like a school boy, at all the -parade, which without him would never have been. We wondered if thru -his modest head any such thoughts passed! - -Flags of Korea and Japan were in every possible nook and corner and -arches of pine so solid in their construction that they did not look -paltry beside the superb wall, which girts the whole city and with -true Chinese irony runs up the hills and towards the sky and where the -wondrous Korean mountains stand bare, bleak and awful. - -Koreans have cut all timber from their peaks and left them like their -kingdom exposed from shiftlessness, a prey: now Japan is to make them -again, to wave with Nature’s fairest plumes the giants of the forest. - -These gaunt rocks made, however, a truly majestic and fantastic -background to the oriental brilliancy of the streets with their rows on -rows of open shops, full of tempting wares such as we cannot often find. - -You can buy in Seoul furniture that is a marvel of luxury and -usefulness and the mother of pearl inlaid ornaments and the wonderful -brass decorated articles are almost an enthrallment. The American -Consulate in Seoul is as rich in its interior beauty of decoration, -as in its hospitality. Its mistress is one of the most lovely women -of our land, or of any land. There we met the forceful Englishwoman -who had tutored the Crown Prince, until he left for Japan; a charming -personality whose reminiscences would fill volumes of delightful -romance, as she has been in the “inner circle” for years and that, -indeed, in a country as full of brilliant scenes and of thrilling -events as a drama of the most Victor Hugan sort. - -You can buy amber and silk and the wonder of Eastern fabrication and -you can exhaust your prose and your purse and your vocabulary over it -both, in admiration and exasperation. - -Seoul is in part modern, that is, a little modern, and it has a street -car line very much like we used to have in Manila in the good old days -“before de war.” - -I always took it with the thrilling sense of not knowing where I was -to land and indeed, altho Seoul looks easy to the traveler, you can -get lost as quickly as in Boston. I was lost several times, but found -myself again just where I started. - -After dark the streets are lighted with huge Chinese lanterns and small -Korean lanterns which are carried in the hands and you can follow your -neighbor, as you do very gratefully, home this way. - -Seoul has a new boulevard since the Japanese occupation and the streets -are, oh, marvel of marvels, being cleaned! - -Koreans would never have thought of that in all their years of -philosophical wandering into the unseen, where they like so much to go! - -My trip to Seoul proved to be of more importance than I anticipated, -as I had a hole in one of the principal streets filled up, to my great -astonishment, again proving that “where there is a will there is a -way.” It had threatened for some time to break many hundreds of legs, -which passed that way every hour of the day and Stygian night! - -Seoul lies in a cup of gigantic hills and it must be not a little like -Jerusalem, in situation a “joy of the whole earth.” It has superb -moonlight nights and radiant days and it is as majestic and dreamy and -sad and glorious as a Greek tragedy. - -If you go into the parks of the two ancient palaces and wander for -hours and hear the birds sing and watch the tall fading on castle walls -and the glory that was Seoul and the grandeur that was Korea and watch -thru the trees, arches and bridges of lovely shape and the pagodas -richly tinted, where rested the lovely forms of long ago and see the -art and the dead, forgotten beauty of an age when beauty was enough, -when an emperor sued within those bowers and the days were long and -careless and the great lotus flowers now on their stems, as then lulled -to sleep all of man’s longings, why you will have to literally tear -yourself away, not to want to drop to sleep never to wake up, as you -did over the book which told it all, how they lived and dreamed and -loved and hated in--Seoul, yes, so long ago when there was a king who -had a son beautiful and good and a daughter as fair as the moon, you -remember! - - - - - JAPANESE IN KOREA - - -The question of the relations between the Koreans and the Japanese in -Korea is a delicate one--one which requires an insight into past causes -and present issues somewhat beyond that of a casual observer. - -It is a question which finds its parallel in the relations of the -Filipinos to the Americans in the Philippine Islands. Taking into -consideration some of the minor differences, it is strikingly the same. - -Unwillingly, by the fortunes of war, both these helpless people, people -loving very little the “strenuous life” and enjoying ease with little, -far more than much without it, are being forced to arouse themselves -to action along new paths into a complex existence to which their -child-like and primitive needs do not call them. They are both more -given to reflection than action, and to theory rather than practice. -The same pride of those who take refuge in dreams is found in both, -but in the case of the Korean it is even harder to obliterate the past -tendencies, as they are not anxious to change even when at slight -cost to themselves. But here we must make a second observation,--that -along the normal and intellectual paths they do desire improvement. -They will sacrifice much to educate their children, and will go to any -privation to get an education. For example, the nurses in training in -the Seoul hospital, the “Po Ku Nyo Koan,” take six years of study and -pay for tuition, and do it gladly and with enthusiasm to obtain their -diplomas. I saw several of these young ladies who would do credit to -Johns Hopkins, so noble and self-poised did they appear. But stubborn -they most surely are, and refractory to those new forms of life which -mean other customs and other laws. The missionaries find them open to -spiritual truth and tractable to the practice of it in their lives. - -Both essentially Oriental and gentle when left to themselves, the -Filipino and the Korean become sullen, and even fierce when forced -against their will. - -Both Americans and Spaniards, as a Spanish gentleman said to me, become -heady and inflated with their own importance as soon as they “round -Corregidor.” The least desirable traits come into focus when vulgar -people are in the foreground. The Japanese have suffered somewhat by -crossing the Tsushima Straits. Insolence and a swagger of “we are the -people” we fancied we had left behind us in the “Pearl of the Orient,” -and which is slowly passing away, however, is recognizable at a glance -in Korea. A jinrikisha man, who seems to be a “thorn in the flesh” of -Yokohama, becomes a festering sore in Korea; he runs over unwary men -and women without a grimace, and bullies the rider into double fare -with the air of a bandit. - -The meddling “in other men’s business,” conspicuous also where -ignorance and lawlessness come into play, as in the Philippines and -Korea, is also characteristic. There is no bound to the impertinence of -those who feel like the bad boy of the nursery that the governess will -never dare tell, for she would get the worst of it if she did. Fair -play is not conspicuous in Korea, nor always in the Philippines. Great -complaint is made by foreigners in Korea as to the wholesale disregard -of property rights, the absolute impossibility of getting justice -before the law. Fortunately the parallel stops here; we have Filipino -judges who enjoy nothing better than sending an American up for a long -term! I hope the time is not far distant when a Korean judge can enjoy -the same ironical pleasure. Of course the greatest difficulty lies in -this adjusting of ignorance to another ignorance in the lower classes, -the ignorance of both being absolutely impenetrable. The educated -Japanese recognize this and acknowledge their inability to cope with it -at times. Occasionally this takes a tragic aspect, as when in working -on the telegraph wires in the streets of Seoul they warned to no -purpose over and over again a poor Korean, to whom electricity and its -deadly power was as unknown a quantity as a Sanskrit root to a London -fishwife, and at last they hit him a blow, and he fell--dead! - -But force is always the weapon of men who have power over others and -none over themselves, whether in Bombay, Manila or Seoul. But that the -patience of English and American and Japanese is often tried to the -uttermost is also true, doubtless. “Patience conquers all things”; this -saying of Saint Theresa is needed by them all; and by the Filipino and -Korean, above all. In conversation with foreigners, with Japanese and -with Koreans, you feel this absolutely. - -A Korean boy said to me pitifully, “Oh, they do not understand,” and a -very astute and able man of prominence in finance in Seoul, a Japanese, -acknowledged the same difficulty of harmonizing such divergent -elements, meaning exactly what the boy could not express. Some of the -foreigners are strongly influenced by their hearts in favor of the -Koreans, citing incidents of their ill-treatment by the coolies and the -merchants. Others, relying on their heads, say, “No, Japan is doing as -well as under the circumstances is possible with a delicate, obstinate, -inflexible people, who do not wish to develop in the modern sense.” As -to the Japanese soldiers and their behavior, I heard only praise, which -is certainly, considering the opportunity they have to be otherwise, -admirable. - -The Korean has by no means the courtesy towards strangers of the -Japanese, but it is said that once you show yourself their friend they -go further in their cordiality and are far more unselfish in their -devotion. - -The less attractive qualities of the Koreans have been greatly -overdrawn. They are kindly and attractive, the women especially so, -even winsome, graceful, and possessing that dignity and poise, partly -characteristic of the British Indian and partly of the Mohammedan. They -are sticklers for tradition and punctilious in etiquette, and like -such people usually are rather more anxious for the “letter” than the -“spirit.” Sensitive to the feelings of a stranger as the Japanese are, -they certainly are not. The prosperity of Korea is tempting to the -avaricious Japanese, and they have been guilty of such transactions as -are some of the monopolies of America, crushing to the wall the less -clever. It is an old story; Japan can show England and America nothing -new in greed. We have exhausted the repertoire! - -Seoul is one of the most enchanting cities in the world; its situation -is marvelous, its picturesqueness only Constantinople can rival. - -Korea is a land of stupendous beauty and attractiveness, the kingdom of -toil, and it is to this they are looking. To the onward marching lines -of men who see the future, Korea and Manchuria are the stepping stones. -The wide fields extend in every direction, the hills “rejoice on every -side.” Japan marches her soldiers at every station, law and order go -with her, and out of chaos, Asiatic chaos, she will bring--who that -sees her at work can doubt--civilization in the modern sense. - - [Illustration] - - - - - TOKYO AND ITS MAYOR - - -One of the most interesting experiences of my stay in Japan was my -visit to the parliament, where I was privileged to have as a guide the -mayor of Tokyo, Mr. Ozaki, a man who has had a seat in that body every -year since it has had its existence. - -The buildings are not in the least imposing. They show the same -paradoxical simplicity which we find in so much of this most stately -people’s ways. - -Over the president’s desk hang eight portraits in oil and on a raised -platform under them a group of distinguished workingmen, whom I took to -be in part officials and visitors. - -Our seat in the diplomatic gallery was directly opposite that of the -president, Mr. Sugita, a most distinguished appearing man who looked -not a little like our late John Hay. The vice president, Mr. Minsura, -sat by the president’s side, a serious man of sedate face. - -The chief secretary is Mr. Hayashida. - -It was a most curious thing to look about the room and to contrast -the individualities with those scenes we had watched in Congress, the -German reichstag, and in Paris in the senate chamber. - -Mayor Ozaki has the distinction of being one of the three best -speakers in the parliament, and his rare penetration, wide travel, -and far-seeing intellect, as well as his wide knowledge of affairs in -a practical sense, furnish him splendid equipment in sustaining the -oratorical eminence he has gained. The speakers on this afternoon were -many and, judging from the rapid firing from the seats and the frequent -laughter, they were both witty and well directed. The members showed -every age from grey hair to the trim dapper young thirty with its -brocade waist coat. Every style of Japanese dress of old feudal days, -which is a most dignified and becoming garment, to the latest work of -the European tailor, was in evidence. - -The voices were for the most part the well-bred modulated ones of the -upper class Japanese, but some were impassioned and some were silvery -and persuasive. - -In front of the president’s desk stand the different members expressing -their views in as many fashions as there are men. Groups of men stood -about laughing and talking as is usual at such places and in the -lobbies there was the usual passing and doubtless buttonholing. On -every hand might be seen deep eyes of astute glance and the still -deeper eyes of a far-seeing statesmanship. - -The sitting lasted till four, and in times of eager debate when much -is at stake, they sometimes do not rise till nine p.m. This making -of laws is a noble profession, but it has its humdrum side as do all -professions, and men seek to escape from this tedious side in different -ways characteristic of themselves. - -There is a restaurant on the ground, indeed, two of them, and we dined -at one with his excellency and listened to the brilliant conversation -which he added as a sauce to the food. Very appetizing food, by the way! - -In Mr. Ozaki, Tokyo has a very unique mayor, a man with as many sided -an existence as his city! “Self made,” as he proudly said, he has been -a public man all his life and yet likes the quiet of his country life -and the family quite as much as the most humble man of the city. A -great reader of men and of events, he is a democrat to the backbone and -has a manner simple as a child and a mind as keen as one of the damioes -swords. He was once exiled from his city as a dangerous character, “for -I am always in the opposition,” he laughingly said, “always a fighter,” -and then he told us of the first three positions he held, from which -he resigned in one, two and three months respectively. He has a dash -of dare devil still, this excessively quiet, self-contained man, but -years, years how they take the fight out of the bravest! We learned -from him of the great undertakings which he as mayor has in view: the -building of a harbor for Tokyo, the new sewerage, the 10,000,000 yens -to invest for the coming exposition and the other things with figures -of something like one hundred million yens. It reminded us of hearing -President Harper talk of laying out Mr. Rockefeller’s millions. Such a -juggler in figures he seemed. - -The Ginza has been widened and one of the finest systems of water works -in the world just terminated. This alone would make the administration -famous. Tokyo elects her mayor every six years, and this mayor has -served five only to begin to learn he claims, the duties of his office. - -Mayor Ozaki in his younger days was a journalist and he has an able -pen. The municipality has in its care a very interesting “Alms House,” -of which we may write later. It is, with other of her institutions, a -most creditable one. - -Japan has the quick eye that sees and puts the right man in the right -place, and certainly the choice of this man was admirable for the city. - -Tokyo is now expecting to buy the electric roads and make out of them -something with which to carry on these gigantic schemes of improvement. - -The city of Tokyo is in the hands of fifteen aldermen, a council over -which the mayor is president, in addition to which is a legislative -body of sixty members, elected by the citizens. The right to vote is -the qualification of the tax payer and is in fact universal suffrage. -This makes the city more an independent or free institution than the -country, as the right to sit in parliament is only received from votes -held by property owners. - -The mayor is elected by the municipal assembly; there is no ceremony in -the inauguration of mayor, not even a practical oath. All the members -of the assembly must be citizens of Tokyo, but the mayor need not be. -When he is elected mayor, the right of citizenship is conferred upon -him. - -All the electric car system which is now in the hands of one company, -is soon to be owned by the city. It is at this present time being -considered by the Diet. The city in this way hopes to meet the enormous -expenses which are confronting it in the way of harbor improvement, -street widening and new sewerage, all of which will cost something like -100,000,000 yen. The new water works are almost completed. The water -comes from the river Fama, about fifty or sixty miles out of the city, -and is a masterly piece of engineering. It will provide Tokyo with a -water system second to none. Of it the present mayor is justly proud. - -Tokyo is increasing in population at about the same rate as Chicago, -that is, about 100,000 per year. Labor troubles have not as yet become -a serious thing in Tokyo, but the prescient gaze of the administration -foresees that the day is not far distant when they may become so. The -municipality was only established about ten years ago and was before -that under the rule of a governor. The office of governor is still a -relic of the feudal times and the Governor still has some prerogatives -which remain from the ancient and somewhat archaic institution. - -The preparation for the coming Exposition is the most serious thing -before the city now. There has been appropriated about 10,000,000 yen. - -“After the Exposition we hope to have the Aoyama Parade ground as a -permanent park, and the construction for this gigantic affair involves -the closest attention from now on,” said His Excellency. A huge -building is projected, which will become permanent and will adorn Shiba -park. The model which we saw is very imposing indeed, and is the work -of the city engineer. It is rather of Roman style of architecture and -is massive and admirably proportioned. - - [Illustration] - - - - - JAPANESE RAILWAYS - - -Dr. Hirai, Director of the Government Railway Bureau, graduated in -the Van Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute just after the exhibition in -Philadelphia in 1878, and on graduating was employed in the Mississippi -River Commission by the United States Government, and did not return to -Japan till 1882. - -His pioneer railway service was in the Hokkaido, on the line which was -built by Col. J. U. Crawford, an American, and run on purely American -plans and methods. It has changed since, as after Dr. Hirai left the -engineer introduced English customs, but retained the American cars. - -“In my day,” said Dr. Hirai, “the New York Central and the Pennsylvania -were the leading roads in America. I hope to see myself what thirty -years have brought about, on my trip to that country next year. I had -intended visiting Europe and America during the war time, but was -prevented on that account from travelling. On my return I shall have -seen and investigated modern railroading as it actually is in America -and Europe. What I shall see will naturally bring benefit to my system.” - -“What do you think of American railroad men, Dr. Hirai?” we asked. - -“I think they are the greatest men that you have in any line. We are -working at this moment for the amalgamation of seventeen private -railroads and are reducing them to the same standard of rates, fares, -and working staff. Our railroad system is just a little over 45,000 -miles, which does not show very large, but its significance is in -the fact that it includes all the main lines of this Empire and is -therefore important. It includes the lines in the Hokkaido, Kyushiu, -all of the main island, and Shikoku, one third of which belonged before -to the Government, the rest having been acquired since 1906-07. The -method by which these seventeen railroads have been acquired is based -on the calculation that the stockholders will receive Government bonds -bearing interest at the rate of 5 per cent., equal to the average -of the dividend they have been receiving during the three years -previous to the time of nationalization. When the railroad has been -paying less on the capital than that, the amount of the bonds to be -paid for the railroad is to be agreed upon between the Government, -and the representatives of the stockholders. The whole amount of -bonds to be issued for nationalization will be nearly Y450,000,000, -or Y500,000,000, which we calculate will be paid off, interest and -principal, in 60 years. The actual result since acquiring the railways -is better than had been anticipated. Rates for goods and fares for -passengers have been reduced to a single standard. The reduction on -some lines has been more than 30 per cent., but still on the whole -our receipts are about 10 per cent. on fares and 20 per cent. on -freight more than the receipts of the previous year. The results -are, therefore, most gratifying. The total receipts for the fiscal -year ending the 31st of March this year will, I think, approximate -Y70,000,000; the net receipts are about 32 to 35 millions. The actual -net receipts for nine months to the end of last December are a little -over Y28,000,000. This is a showing which speaks for itself. - -“The most marked results of nationalization of our railroads is seen -in the Hokkaido, where the best part of the railway was under the -control of the Hokkaido Colliery and Railway Company. Naturally this -company transported their coal in preference to all other freight, and -the development of paper mills and other manufactures was slow. Since -the Government has taken over the railway, no preference is given to -any particular freight, and in consequence the development of other -industries is facilitated. - -“The steel works at Wakamatsu are supplying the army and navy, so we -are short of materials from this source, but we obtain the greater -part of our rails from them. We are building our cars in our own shops -and in three private shops, but we import our locomotives from foreign -countries, and you see English, German and American locomotives on our -road. The most economical engines so far in use we find to be English. -We hope to introduce greater ease and luxury in our cars every year. We -are now exporting wood for ties and sleepers to America. Our first aim -is for cheap and quick transportation of goods. Heretofore our receipts -have been mostly from passengers, over 70 per cent., but of late we -are giving more facilities to freight. We expect to build a central -station in Tokyo, beginning the work this year, and Shimbashi will be -like an old horse which in pride has once drawn his master’s carriage, -but is later relegated to a dray, for it will be used for goods alone. -We expect to connect the elevated line we are building now to Uyeno and -Ochanomidzu. The plan of the new central station is already complete. -It will be located in Marunouchi and will be a thoroughly modern -station costing about Y2,000,000. It will be completed in time for -the exposition, and we expect to have a station hotel in connection -with it, after the plan of the Canadian Pacific hotels. But, when -it is all finished, we shall have, like the man in the scripture, to -pull down and build bigger, so fast does the tide and onward sweep of -modern life outreach even the large projects of man’s brain. We have -something like 70,000 employes, a good standing army, and our Society -for the relief of the injured and disabled has on its list 50,000 -members; this provides for medical treatment and care for those laid -aside in any way. It is a society in which the railroad and the men -co-operate. The men pay in every month 3 per cent. of their wages, -and the government 2 per cent., so that 5 per cent. of the income of -all wages is appropriated for this relief fund. The officers of the -road get a pension after 15 years’ service amounting to one quarter of -their salary. We have to supply the staff of the Korean, Manchurian and -Formosan times, who are men trained with us. - -“During the war we sent 15,000 men to work the military lines in -Manchuria and Korea. A Railway School is situated near Uyeno Station -in Tokyo, where the course is preliminary. After graduation the men -come to us and work up. For high grades we employ university graduates -or those from high commercial schools. The most urgent work we have -on hand in the coming year is the extension of station facilities, -doubling of tracks, extension of repairing shops for the existing -lines, for which we have an estimate of eight millions for the coming -year. In the line of new construction, we have an estimate of about 25 -millions yearly extending over twelve years, which will add about two -thousand miles to our railway when completed.” - -Dr. Hirai speaks the English of a generation gone, with the clear -cut pronunciation of another age when men and women had time to do -things well, and as he speaks English, so he stands at the head of -one of the great railroads of the world, with the gentle suavity and -calm reflective face of a scholar, not a man of affairs, with a serene -self-possession which is the unmistakable mark of genius combined with -self-mastery. He is more like the great Dr. Charcot than any man I ever -met, and I remembered on coming home that in Dr. Charcot’s Paris house -was placed, in his vast library, a statue of Buddha. - - [Illustration] - - - - - MADAME SHIMODA - - -Madame Shimoda is one of those rare beings, who have the singular -fortune to have not only fame, but what is far more to be coveted, a -place, in the hearts of thousands of her countrymen and women. - -Hardly any one in Tokyo, who reads at all, but could guide you to the -little wooden house, on the hill, one of a million homes of her city, -where this virile and delicate woman lives, surrounded by the care of -relatives and friends, who it is easy to see give her, not only care, -but love. - -Born in a feudal castle in the picturesque country of the Japan -mountain region, with the country spirit still in her, which the life -for many years in the palace of Tokyo could not destroy, that spirit -you feel in the touch of her diminutive hand, in the glance of her -powerful eyes, where dwells unquenched the freshness of free spaces. - -Before she was twenty she was a reader to Her Majesty the Empress and -began the severe training of court etiquette, with its demands, more -than those of a soldier for self-control, yet even after years of such -experience and the still more severe drill as a teacher of young ladies -she has as charming a naturalness as a girl, so great is the gift of -the “kind old Nurse” Nature. - -These men and women of Japan, who have crossed the half century line, -are all of them, more or less, the inheritors of the chivalry of -the ages gone by, and of all those ideas which Japan once held as -absolutely necessary to the making of a lady or a gentleman. - -They tell us with a soft resigned sigh, that those ideals are passing -away before the inroads of western civilization, and who can not regret -it? - -A volume of this little lady’s work with her round, generous -hand-writing, is one of my treasures, as she stands first among the -“singing birds” among the women of her land. - -Her tastes are as varied as her life, with always that passionate love -of nature in the foreground. - -The heroic, as is natural in a Japanese woman, comes next, and the late -war comes often into the short simple lines, where self-poise is again -so marked. - -Her fondness for youth and the sentiments of youth come into play on -every other page. - -I had spent a number of hours in the school which is her greatest -monument, the “Peeress school,” where the daughters of the nobility -are educated, and found there a duplicate of a first class European -institution, from the kindergarten to the graduating class. - -I had listened to the eloquence of the teachers as they spoke of the -French Revolution, and watched the faces of the English class, as they -went over the ever imperial verses of Tennyson. - -In those pretty, demure eyes, there was just the passion for the “good, -the true and beautiful,” which all fine youth has, the same we know so -well, before the Dawn has left them. - -We passed a group in the hall and there was the daughter of the -greatest admiral of modern times, Miss Togo! - -We saw them in the cooking school and heard their bursts of laughter -as they made the interesting and doubtless indigestible dishes they -were soon to partake of. - -From the Auditorium to the garden, where the children play and make -those queer shapes and forms in the sand which latter are enlarged in -the vaster designs of manhood and womanhood, we found everywhere the -mark of this woman, her care and her genius. - -On one Sunday, we were invited to her house, and a very bright Yokohama -girl, who spoke Japanese fluently, was our enthusiastic companion to -the home of the first teacher and first poetess of the land. - -I was amused as we sat and she talked for an hour in the quiet soft -toned parlor of the higher education of the women of her land, to see -how her glance would wander from my pencil to the face of the young -girl, and of how she would interrupt her most serious remarks of -history, which she has at her finger tips, of philosophy, bred in her -bones, of the highest ethics of life, when she would cast one of those -bewitching smiles on the girl as she pressed her to take more sweets. -Life is ever the master passion of all such souls and they live only -in to-day. Higher education is not new, but like all great movements, -this of Japan began long, long ago, and once women held the place of -almost the equal of their lords, but the strange story of reaction -and retrogression, which marks the advance of the East, came in to -disfigure the wonderful march of the thought life of women. - -Madame Shimoda is a pioneer in her work, and to-day thousands of modern -Japanese women rise up to call her blessed. - -She was left a widow after a very brief married life and then all her -pent up love and devotion went out to her sex. - -She has travelled extensively in Europe and America, and with that -master power that all Japanese seem to have, she has taken much of the -good, and left the bad of the West. - -The great need of physical culture for the future mothers of Japan was -what appealed to her most strongly and this has been the first note in -her educational scheme. - -We had sought for the motto which gives the keynote to the social life -of a Japanese home, and in the house of Viscount Kaneko we had found it -to be: “Wealth and rank are but a fleeting show, the merit is the man.” -Here it was, as we might have known: “Duty First.” - -What would one expect of a woman who had spent her middle life in -educating the upper classes of her people, that she would want to -rest? Oh, no! for the remaining years she is to devote herself just as -earnestly to the educating of middle and lower class Japanese women. - -This frail but purposeful woman had fire in her eyes as she spoke of -the future, a future which to such as she must only mean vaster and -vaster horizons and more radiant conquests. - - [Illustration] - - - - - PEERESS’ SCHOOL - - -If you walk from Hibiya Park between two imposing public buildings, up -the broad avenue to the top of the hill, you will come to the high wall -which encloses the Peeress’ School, with the court, a fine entrance -space, with porter’s lodge and a porte cochere of Gothic arches, and -the whole a good bit of English architecture, with wide door and a -lofty hall. Opposite you as you enter is the refectory, with its low -tables and the plain and substantial effect of age and use. Two pretty -portresses will meet you at the door, with their eyes full of fun, as -all boarding-school maids have, as they are the secret ambassadors of -much mischief and are initiates of that occult society of fun. Their -demure manners, assumed for the occasion, do not blind you to their -roguery, for you have been a boarding-school girl long ago. - -The instructor in English is as courteous as a guide as he is clever -in the use of your mother tongue, and you begin with a keen relish the -tour of inspection. - -The reception room is rather like the meeting room of a committee, -for which purpose it is doubtless often used. Here the wise heads are -doubtless laid together and those plans for the education of Japan’s -future wives and mothers laid. Out of this room leads the Empress’ -reception room, with the heavy damask curtains, the high ceilings and -the empty walls where, on the two yearly visits, the gracious and -“first woman of the land” receives the homage of the director and his -staff and gives in return the interest of all true women, be they high -or low, in the education and welfare of their sex. - -The school has three terms,--one week’s vacation in April, and more -than two months in summer, and a short vacation at the New Year. About -the end of October is the exhibition in physical exercises, and about -the end of March that awe-inspiring epoch of graduation, when the high -functionaries of State and the distinguished clientele of Tokyo come to -see their girls step out of the schoolroom into the school of life--a -moment mingled in every land and school with gaiety and pathos. - -The children enter the kindergarten at the end of the toddling age, and -the little lads and lassies sit side by side in their delightful rooms -and make their first songs of life, as they end them, together, their -little arms and hands making the first efforts at rhythm together, -awkward movements full of grace. They pass at eight years to the -primary department and begin the toilsome upward pull of real study, -and here their ways part,--the boys for the Peers’ School and the -ruder ways of masculine effort. From the primary course they enter at -about the age of fourteen the “middle course,” and that is in grade -substantially our High School. From this they can take post-graduate -courses in special studies, such as the classics, music and other -branches. The branches are technical departments, music, needlework and -embroidery, and a thorough course in cooking. Of the painting we will -speak later. - -The Literary department must include courses in advanced Japanese -classics and English and French literature. The Science department -comprises a small laboratory, not overstocked with apparatus, and a -good class-room for experiments. This department has few devotees, as -might be expected, and also mathematics, and there is “little Latin and -less Greek” in the regular curriculum. - -These sparkling-eyed young damsels take mostly to the gentler arts and -the gentler paths of learning. Our first visit was to the painting -department, as was fitting in a land which is above all things an -amateur of art. Here some ten young girls were painting on silk the -flowers and butterflies so dear to the Japanese heart. They were -fifth-year students and were very clever. The first year’s work hung -about on the walls. We looked for still-life subjects and casts, and -were told we would find them later, as we did, and some good work -in oil, and were told that animals and more ambitious subjects were -attempted by these embryo Rosa Bonheurs. The work was about on a level -technically, without being as original, as similar work of the same age -at home. - -The gong struck for the end of a forty-five minutes’ period as we -left these rooms and the girls rushed out to the playground with all -the excitement of such times at home. The playground is much too -small. It had a tennis court where the girls were striking wildly at -a tethered ball, an amusement they seemed much to enjoy. There is -a fine gymnasium with the omnipresent piano, and here the marching -and physical exercises are practised. The kindergarten department -playground has piles of sand for the little folks, and they begin their -engineering and their landscape gardening in the bright sunshine there. -In the halls we saw two ping-pong tables, and certainly the physical -side of the young ladies’ training is not neglected. The auditorium -is spacious, and here are held the overflow recitations occasionally. -We saw a class in ethics file in, their faces alive with youth and -happiness, a charming ethical picture! As we were passing one door a -group of these eager beings emerged, and our guide informed us that the -tall young lady was Admiral Togo’s daughter. - -Four hours a week are given to foreign languages, and French or -English may be selected. German is not taught to the girls. We were -particularly entertained in the history class. The young ladies were -as intent as their master, who told them in impassioned language -of that impassioned epoch of the French revolution. “Danton and -Robespierre,” how strange those names sounded so far away, mingled with -the hurrying voice of the speaker! The revenge of the years on evil, -how far-reaching! In the English class we heard some very creditable -rendering of English verse by the girls, and the charm of Tennyson’s -“Idylls of the King” lost nothing on those pretty lips. The Knight -Sir Lancelot and the maid Elaine and all their chivalric woes and -their exquisite love story was dainty enough in its new setting. We -saw the cooking class at work and the little maids frying fish and -preparing the lunch that was to be served at the long table in the -airy dining-room which opens into the garden. For myself I was willing -to try the cooking, however indigestible, after seeing the cooks. The -teacher was an old Japanese gentleman who was as cool, apparently, with -these too many “cooks spoiling the broth” as a young chef would not be, -patience being the supreme qualification for a cook, as for a Cabinet -Minister. - -We found the kindergarten department, after all, the most alluring, for -the rooms here were more attractive and the little pupils passingly -dear. They sang so sweetly and played so charmingly in the wee garden -and came running about us with all the abandonment of childhood and the -laughter of fairies that we were captives to education at once. - -If we could have one of those baby companions as a seat mate we would -be willing to go over the whole course again, beset with the terrors of -examinations and failure marks as it was. - -The teachers of the Peeress’ School are specialists and have received -the training of many lands. We had a cosy chat in the director’s study, -and he amusingly informed us in very idiomatic English as a beginning -“that as he had arrived only a day before us he did not know much more -than we about the school.” This admission was certainly promising of -great good to the school, as wisdom is not hasty in its judgments, nor -rash in its methods. - -Looking into that face which bears the beauty of refinement and culture -to an eminent degree, as well as that soul light, without which all -education is vain and all teachers worse than vain, we felt that in -the hands of a man associated for more than twenty years with the -education of the youth of Japan, Mr. Gentaro Matsumoto, the future of -the Peeress’ School might be even brighter than its past. - - [Illustration] - - - - - KANEKO - - -The subject of this chapter is one of the forces,--which unobtrusively -and unostentatiously is not only felt in Japan, but in the world. He -is a world man. In order to pass into this category of world men, a -great deal is required, and process is always of intense interest to -humanity,--which from the lowest to the highest is aspiring to be felt. - -Chosen to represent in the Great Exposition the country of which -his proudest boast is to be a son, he combines those distinguished -attainments, which a long past of services well rendered have given in -turn, and is not only a fine example of Modern Japan at its present -moment of leadership, but is also a man of the world,--moulded by the -best scholarship of the last century, and while working to-day in the -formation and perfecting of his own government, his thought has the -catholicity of a statesman and embraces the interests of every land as -well. - -Born at an epoch when his country was just awakening to the modern -struggle,--born out of the provincial life, which is always the best -preparation for city life, because it is more serious, more profound, -and more far-reaching in its thought than that of a metropolis, as -it is more introspective; he came as a very young man to be the -adopted foster son of our great republic, and with singular Oriental -astuteness, read into its pages of history and life, its secrets -of growth and progress, as well as its defects and limitations; he -rose through all the grades of a city public school, that unrivaled -training for life, entered our proudest university, the synonym of -culture, of the humanities of that aristocracy of thought which -separates and differentiates men, far more than lineage,--and came out -of it to mingle in the affairs of men, a democrat, progressive, man of -action, incorporating in his ideals and work the best influences of the -past, but an ardent lover of the future, a believer in better days and -things, a belief which he has kept to this hour. - -Kentaro Kaneko was born in Fukuoka, Chikuzen, Western Japan,--noted for -its chivalry, its warriors, and also for its learning. Its Daimyo was -Marquis Kurada, one of the greatest nobles of the land, the grandfather -of the present Vice-President of the House, and this man took a special -interest in Viscount Kaneko, and it was through his influence that as -a boy he was sent to Tokyo to study, and later to Boston, where he -began his education in the Boston public schools. From these schools be -entered Harvard Law School and graduated, returning to his own country -after eight years, and was soon appointed by Prince Ito Secretary of -the State Council, and was in the next year appointed private secretary -to Prime Minister Ito, and launched on the arduous labors of making the -draft of Japan’s future Constitution. - -He was married to the present Viscountess, the daughter of a governor -of one of the Japanese provinces, and they have two daughters and a -son. Viscountess Kaneko is exceptional in her graceful hospitality, -a lover of home, and although she does not speak foreign languages, -is said to be a brilliant conversationalist in her own, and is a real -helpmate to her husband in his intellectual and social life, devoted -to children and to entertaining, she has won enthusiastic appreciation -from her guests by her tact and kindness. She is interested in all the -best modernism. - -In a recent resume of his life, we gather these details: - -“In 1890 he was elected as a member of the Institute of International -Law and in 1892 attended its general meeting held in Switzerland. At -the meetings, he advocated reforming the Treaties then in force between -Japan and foreign powers and for abolishing extraterritoriality in -Japan, and after much argument and pleading, he at last succeeded in -getting the Institute to pass the resolution. In 1894 he was appointed -the Vice Minister of Agriculture and Commerce; in 1898 became the -Minister of Agriculture and Commerce in the Ito Ministry, and then -resigned the portfolio together with Prime Minister Ito. In 1899 he -went over to the United States, accepting an invitation from Harvard -University, where the honorary title of Doctor of Laws was conferred on -him. He was the first Japanese that received the title, and the reason -for conferring this singular honor upon him was announced by President -Eliot at the Commencement as follows: - -“Kentaro Kaneko, Harvard Bachelor of Laws, formerly Chief Secretary of -the Imperial House of Peers in Japan, and Vice-Minister and Minister of -Agriculture and Commerce, Life member of this House of Peers, the type -of those scholars of two Hemispheres through whom West would welcome -East to share in the inheritance of Hebrew religion, Greek Art, Roman -Law and Nineteenth Century Science.” - -In 1900, he was created a Baron in recognition of his service. Before -this time, he had organized with Prince Ito a political association -named Seiyu-Kwai and was appointed a member of the managing committee. -When the Ito Cabinet was formed in 1900 he was appointed to the -portfolio of the Minister of Justice. The next year, when the Ito -Ministry resigned, he retired to a quiet life for a while. In 1904 on -the declaration of war with Russia, the Viscount was ordered to proceed -to the United States on a special mission and remained there for one -year and a half. During that time he devoted himself to promote the -best interests of his country and scarcely had a day’s rest, so that he -was looked upon as uncommissioned ambassador; and it is said when the -negotiation for peace was commenced at Portsmouth, he labored hard to -secure a successful result, and had several interviews with President -Roosevelt. In 1906 he was appointed a Privy Councillor and for his -service during the war, decorated with the First Order of Merit and -the Grand Cordon of the Rising Sun. In 1907, when the Order for the -Organization of the Bureau of the Grand Exhibition of Japan, to be -opened in 1912, was promulgated, he received the Imperial Order to be -the Director of the Exhibition with all the offices and rank already -conferred upon that function. In September, 1907, he was a Viscount for -his service rendered for the cause of his country. - -In one of our interviews with this man, whose souvenirs cover such -an interesting period, we asked him for reminiscences, which he -kindly gave in the genial and unstudied manner characteristic of his -conversation. - -“My souvenirs of England? Every day I used to go and sit in the house -and listen to the debates in which Gladstone and his illustrious -colleagues took part, this was in 1890, and I learned the usages from -Sir Reginald Palgrave, who was the clerk of the house, the brother -of the famous Prof. Palgrave of Oxford. My friendship with Herbert -Spencer was a connecting link from America, for I took a letter from -Mr. John Fish to him, and sending him my card, we met the following -day by his invitation. At once we talked on the constitutional -government of Japan and I showed him the English translation of the -Constitution and we discussed questions of morality and religion. He -was particularly interested in Japanese history, and evidently my -explanation cleared many points he could not get right before. His face -glowed with excitement. He jumped up, having an engagement at half past -four, and he took me in his carriage and drove me to my hotel on his -way to the “Atheneum Club.” We talked all the way and he said ‘I shall -propose you as an honorary member of the Atheneum Club,’ and I was -informed a week later that I was elected a member. Frequently afterward -we dined there together, and on my return to Japan we corresponded. -Herbert Spencer had great interest in the Orient and in collecting from -there his materials for his social studies. Another friend was Lord -Coolidge, Chief Justice of England. He used to entertain a great deal -in his London house and there I met the celebrities. Sir Francis and -Lady Jeune entertained me during the London season, and I visited with -them in their country place in Newberry, meeting all the society of the -day, Lord Knutsford and others. Gladstone impressed me as one of the -greatest men in intellectuality, learning and the force of conviction; -at that time he was out of office. - -“In 1892 I revisited London, and arrived the very day Lord Salisbury -went out and Gladstone’s cabinet came in. Among its members Mr. James -Brace was my particular friend. I met him often in London and in the -United States in 1904, when he was invited to give lectures to the -Alumni at Harvard. - -“When in England I met many Oxford and Cambridge men. What impressed me -as admirable in England was the English quiet, contented life. In Japan -politically we are aristocratic, but in all the social relations we -are democratic. The wife educates our servants to be really interested -in their duties. We, the Japanese, are not very rich, we do not count -the men by their money, but by their worth; any man is admitted to -the best society who is worthy of it. Japan is the most deceptive -country externally; you scarcely meet a single lady, or gentleman -in the street, so you do not meet them on the cars or the parks. A -Japanese lady sends for her goods to the house, a promiscuous crowd -alone meets you so that you rarely come in contact with the well-bred -people of the country. So it is also the undesirable people who go to -America, oftentimes either in misfortune financially through the fault -of others, he is preparing himself by an industrious life in a foreign -country, and often he is trying to retrieve his life or that of his -family. Hotel boys and servants come back and take useful places here, -the better for their experience. - -“Among the great men who moulded my ideals in America, I wanted to -study the religious institutions and influence in the United States, -so I went to all the churches while in Boston, Roman Catholic, -Congregational, Swedenborgian, Episcopalian, Baptist, and Parker’s -Memorial, and met all classes of preachers, theologians, and ethical -teachers. I was in public school in Boston in 1872, when the public -school was at its best. That gave me the strong force to come back into -the battle of life, and from the mingling with negroes and emigrants, -I learned life. I knew Longfellow and Holmes and spent two summers -with him at Beverly Farm. Robert C. Winthrop was also my friend, and -was also a great help to me. Through his kindness, Judge Holmes gave -me more material to cultivate my mind perhaps than any other American. -President Eliot was of course an inspiration and two of my pleasantest -memories are visits to James G. Blaine at Bar Harbor and President -Cleveland at “Gray Gables”.” - -In closing, as the sun was setting over Tokio and filling the vast -salle of the Exposition Administration offices with twilight, the -delicate and earnest face of the speaker flashed now with humor, now -with seriousness and pathos as he spoke of the present relation of -Japan and America, serious it is, when loose tongues speak of that most -awful thing,--war. “We try to weigh the past, present and future, and -we are sure that soon the temporary strain will be relieved,” said the -earnest voice,--“ever since the restoration in 1868 America has been -our friend and we remember it; it has been a friendship cemented with -our growth.” - - [Illustration] - - - - - EXPOSITION NOTES - - -A jinriksha ride through the picturesque streets of Tokyo about two -to two and a half miles from Shimbashi Station brings you to the -Aoyama Parade ground, which, with the Imperial Park forms the site of -the Exposition of 1912. From corners of the grounds and a temporary -station, trains will leave for and come from all parts of the Empire. -This place, now perfectly bare, will show the result of Japanese genius -and invention in a short time. On one side is the park of the Crown -Prince’s palace, and at another corner is a military university, which -will be removed. The ground here is high and the air very fresh and -invigorating, as it is in an open part of the city, and it will remain -a permanent park after the Exposition. The work on the ground begins -early in 1908. - -Tokyo alone is most interesting in its street sights; the children at -their games, a baby asleep in the shop, a lovely vision, two old people -weighed down with their burdens, pilgrims in quaint garb, the boys and -girls returning from school with knapsacks full of books, arms over -each others’ shoulders, bright-eyed girls out for amusement or to pay -visits, the big milk carts and street vendors, the portable kitchens, -around which some are taking an evening meal, the flower wagons, the -horses with their bright accoutrements, the strange calls, the pathetic -blind beggars, all mingle in the city’s drama! The road from the -parade ground is lined with parks and villas, passing we see many gay -singing children. We go through the deeper lanes and hedges to the park -which we enter by an avenue of truly imperial trees, pine trees, and -groves also of maples and shrubs, 120 acres, rented from the Imperial -household, paths of delightful vistas, mystery and woods full of charm, -a sylvan paradise, hilly, rolling, full of possibilities of gardening, -near Tokyo Bay. - -Dr. Fukuichi, the chief engineer of Japan, is the Chairman of the -Committee for the buildings and is now engaged on the plans. The -gardening and electricity, each best authority, has been appointed. -Mr. Fuwa is the Director of the Imperial Horticultural department and -is the chairman of the Committee on Gardening. The buildings will be -unique,--five departments, education, science, electricity, manufactory. - -The Governments of the world have been requested to build in the style -of their own country. Viscount Kaneko emphasizes that every nation -should incorporate its own architecture in the structures. “We hope,” -thus he says, “that our ideas of architecture will be revolutionized.” -There will be large hotels constructed in different cities of Japan -and many new ones in Tokyo, as the houses already here are by no means -adequate. - -“The International Exposition,” said Viscount Kaneko, “as far as I have -seen in Europe and America, have been too large in extent and scope, so -that as a rule it is too great for any one to grasp as the exhibits are -over-full, and might be described as ‘too much of a muchness.’ Neither -the eyes nor the ears can take in the magnitude, so you are dumb and -numb, and you come out overawed by the detail. The extent and magnitude -have defeated often their object: too much paltry stuff, and show and -display, not realizing the educational purpose, have become rather a -sight-seeing scheme. - -“This was said of Paris and of St. Louis, and I have heard from -different sources, commissioners, executives, both European and -American, express this feeling, and so at this juncture of world’s -fairs, I think the organizers are thinking to lessen the extent and -magnitude and thereby to make the exposition compact, systematic, and -effective. - -“I believe that in the future the world’s fairs will be lessened in -size and in indiscriminate exhibits. That is my idea, which I hope -to incorporate in the coming exposition. We mean to emphasize to the -world that in the grandeur of the buildings we cannot compete with -Europe and America, and also Japan cannot show anything of electricity, -manufacturing or machinery, and we cannot give any lesson to the world -either, in going ahead of other nations in the ensemble;--we hardly -hope to show much of overwhelming value on any line to the world, as -it is the first International Exhibition in the Orient. Consequently -we expect to make the Asiatic exhibit the special point; we want to -exhibit all the products of Asia and the Indian Archipelago, the -Philippines, Sumatra, Borneo, Java, Australia, New Zealand, and -Formosa, and so we will have the first Asiatic expression of commerce -on so large a scale, showing unity of language, racial features, -religion and customs, for we can collect from all those peoples and -realize a unifying of the Oriental Nations, and enlighten the world as -to the Oriental essence, thought, ideals,--past and future. This is our -aim. - -“Next, we expect to make Tokyo the centre from Tokyo then, expanding -in the radii of Nikko and Sendai in the north, and in the south -Nagoya, Nara, and Kyoto, and farther down south Shimonoseki and the -Island of Kyushu, and thus the whole country will be thrown open to -the people as an exhibition ground. All the temples will be open to -the western visitors, and every corner and every mountain and all the -scenery will form a part of the Exposition grounds, and thus we expect -to show to the Western peoples the manners, customs and life of the -Japanese, and show them also, not only in public, but at home. Thus -also by interchange of ideas between the Japanese and Western nations, -they will come to a better understanding of each other for mutual -benefit, so many misunderstandings between the East and the West may be -corrected and also it will bring about a “rapprochement” of sympathy -and interest, and in this manner we will contribute something to the -world’s commerce, diplomacy and civilization. These are the general -lines along which we shall move and we expect to organize. - -“We wish the exposition also to serve in statecraft. Formerly the -Sovereigns and Ministers negotiated the diplomacy of a nation in secret -conclaves, but within the last fifty years this has been changed. Now -the people hold the power. If we can bring a better understanding -between the Orient and Occident by the means of a friendly rivalry of -an Exposition, the ends of civilization will be met and progress will -be served. - -“Japan is considered the leading artistic nation of the Orient, but -the nations of the world have not seen Japanese art arranged in -order. Now we expect to have an exposition of Japanese ancient art, -arranged chronologically, and also according to schools, covering a -period of 1,500 years, after the introduction of Indian religion and -Chinese philosophy into Japan. This period will be divided into eight -periods of Japanese artistic history, and each period will show the -characteristic arts of painting, bronze and pottery, and lacquer, and -so forth, and will show characteristic ideas and instincts of the -Japanese people. Thus the whole history of Japanese art will be brought -down to the modern age. - -“These are only a few details of the forthcoming Exposition which will, -we trust, bring the East and West into greater unity.” - - [Illustration] - - - - - BARON TAKAHASHI - - -In the two great branches of state craft, diplomacy and finance, it is -interesting to see the interchange of qualities and the intellectual -dominance of each is usually thought to be most marked, still there -have been men of rare human qualities, who were financiers and -diplomats as well. - -Baron Takahashi unquestionably belongs to this class who weave, as -do certain scientists, a romance of facts or more justly speaking -comprehend the intense humanness of dollars and cents. - -Five times he has crossed the ocean to visit America on commercial -missions and brought back a fund of observation, as well as more -material baggage. He has put his finger on the pulse of Wall street and -discovered some of the causes of its fitful and erratic pulsations, and -has even after bearing the tremendous financial burden of a country -in its hour of extreme need come out with the vigor and the magnetic -vitality of a man of the future, not of the past. - -We thought of Necker at once and the cheerful Latin optimism seemed in -the speaker and in his person. - -“Japan has not yet recovered as we know from the late war, and she -requires foreign capital, we must look to the world’s markets for it. -Unfortunately for us we must wait for our loans until the affairs of -other countries are on a better basis or rather in a less fluctuating -condition than they are to-day. I believe that if men of capital will -continue to invest in my country, it will be to their advantage and I -am also desirous for the mutual good of both, that these investments be -as safe as possible and in this I have been and will be an intermediary. - -“From the standpoint of investors England and Germany are -unquestionably the safest and surest markets to-day. Financial security -always goes with freedom, the United States has such serious abuses of -power that freedom becomes disturbed and so as by a paradox tyranny -often reigns. - -“The continual warfare between labor and capital gives rise to -uneasiness and disturbs the market, as does the lax social conditions -the sequel of the indiscriminate immigration and it has the seeds of -revolt against established rule. - -“Something must be done with the banking system in America and -there must be reforms also in the monetary system. The peculiar -centralization of the gold in Washington and so in an event of crisis -the intervention coming wholly from there, is not advantageous. A -central banking system as in Germany should be established. The -amassing of great fortunes is not however as many suppose an evil, -money is never idle except unspent in the pocket of the poor man! The -rich man puts it at once to use. Turning to Japan we see some very -hopeful signs and some serious drawbacks. Foremost among the things -which promise most, are the sugar plantations of Formosa. If in a few -years she furnishes us with most all the sugar we need as we expect -and Korea with her vast territory as yet waiting for energy and for -intellect to develop can give us cotton, we shall find these great -items in our imports changed to sources of income and in the near -future a trade balance in our favor. This cotton of Korea is of far -more value to us than her gold mines. One of the major drawbacks in -Japan commercially is the want of co-operation among small manufacturers -and work men handicrafts. - -“We feel this primarily in the exports to China. Take the case of -Manchuria. The Chinese are very observing and they can tell the -difference between our work and German work at once and they prefer to -use the German although they must pay more for it. - -“The cause of this is often that a poor manufacturer is many times -compelled to over-produce under great pressure and turns out half-done -work, even when he knows it means no more orders. - -“Local authorities are trying to urge combinations among manufacturers, -but so far have met with little success. - -“This isolated working purely for self interest is undoubtedly the root -of what is called Japanese commercial dishonesty. - -“To France we must turn to-day to see the supreme example of thrift and -industry and reciprocity of helpfulness. Japan unfortunately does not -yet give us as hopeful a picture of economy.” - -Laughingly assuring Baron Takahashi that we had a personal sympathy -with the people who could not save, he answered playfully that we must -all acknowledge the wisdom of providing for old age and children, and -with that very human and humane observation our interview was closed. -We felt the man spoke rather than the financier. - - - - - TOKYO OBSERVATORY - - -If you look at an astronomical map of stations of observation, you will -see what looks to be a meteoric shower of dots on Europe, where there -are one hundred and thirty observatories, sixty-five in North America, -six in India, six also in Australia, two in the West Indies, three on -the coast of China, and following the line of sea and shore northward -in a vast region of watery waste only two lone spots which are the -two Japanese observatories. Their importance to science is therefore -obvious. Though situated on a height which seems to crown the city of -Tokyo with the picturesque foliage of Hibiya Park, where the lungs and -the mind expand, we are surprised to be told that for star gazers, -there is not enough space. The observatory is soon to be moved; so bad -are the atmospheric conditions and it is all but impossible to obtain -good results in astronomical photography. In spite of this draw-back -some very successful work on the Milky Way has been obtained by Prof. -S. Hirayama, still as the enthusiastic young assistant says who has -just returned from two years at the Yerkes observatory at Williams bay, -Wisconsin, it is very unsatisfactory. - -The work just now of the Observatory is the observation of variable -stars, and the study of the deviation of verticals for which the -observers must go out into the country to other heights. The chief work -of the staff is along the line of time service, variation of latitude, -solar observations, though the most important work is possibly on the -Milky Way. The staff has been up to this time small, but there is -now a sufficient force to ensure greater results of a more searching -character. The present officers are:--Director, Prof. Terao; Professors -S. and K. Hirayama; Assistant Professors, Sotome, Midzuhara, and -Ichinoye. - -The Astronomical Society which has just been established intends to -popularize the study of astronomy, and they will have for this purpose, -a series of journals published in Japanese. For scholars there will be -also journals in English, German and French, giving an account of the -work done at the observatory as well as matters of universal interest -to astronomers. In eclipse trials many observations have been made; -some of the plates are most beautiful, one taken of the corona of the -sun by Prof. Hirayama was exquisite, this work was done at Padang, -Sumatra. The instruments are three equatorials, two meridian circles -and several smaller telescopes. Proudest of all is the institution of -their Reflers clock which, I believe, is the only one in the Orient. -The library is excellent, containing very many valuable works of -reference. Mr. Ichinoye, while at the Yerkes observatory, took special -work in spectroscopy and double stars and he speaks with enthusiasm -of Profs. Frost, Burnham and Bernard, who are among the leading -astronomers of the world in solar and stellar investigation. - -An account of the taking of the coronax of the Sun is given graphically -in the “Annal” of the Tokyo Observatory. - - We left Singapore on the 4th April on the steamer “Van Outhoorn” of the - Koninklijke Paketvaart-Maatschappij, and four days later we anchored in - Oleh-leh, at the extreme north of Sumatra island. During the rest of - the voyage the steamer remained within sight of land. Our destination, - Emmahaven, was reached at one o’clock in the afternoon of April 15th. - There we took the train for Padang, only twenty minutes’ journey. In - Padang I was able to select an abandoned shooting ground for archery on - the seashore near Damar Street, as a site for the observing station. - It was found afterwards that this site was too near the sea; when the - sea was rough it was impossible to make sextant observations with - artificial horizon on account of the periodical trembling of the - ground. But fortunately on the day of the eclipse the sea was extremely - calm, so that we could get sharp photographs. Dr. Lau, a German - engineer, who had been resident for a long time in Padang, was most - helpful to us during the whole period of our stay. He provided for us - both labor and materials. On account of the excessive rain it was not - possible to commence the setting of our instruments until April 27th. - The principal instruments employed are as follows:--8-inch prismatic - camera, in charge of the writer; 5-inch coronagraph, in charge of Mr. - K. Hirayama; Vogel’s direct vision star-spectroscope in connection with - a 4-inch telescope, in charge of Mr. Sotome. - - Now for a few words about the weather conditions at this station during - my stay. Observations at Padang for several days after our arrival - showed that as a rule the mornings were quite clear, but about noon - the sky began to be overcast, and in the evenings it rained. Since the - totality was to occur about one o’clock in the afternoon, we were all - anxious about the visibility of the eclipse. But later observations - showed that the weather was greatly improving. Still there was not a - single day in which the sky was entirely free of clouds, such as I had - enjoyed during my stay in India to observe the total eclipse of 1898. - The nights were specially bad, with either clouds or rain. Till the - time of the eclipse we had only a few clear nights, during which we - tried to photograph the spectrum of a bright star for focussing. - - The morning of the day before the eclipse was cloudy; it began to rain - in torrents in the afternoon and by night it had not improved at all, - promising nothing but rain for the next day. The morning of the 18th - of May dawned cloudy, but afterwards it began to improve. The clouds - broke in several places, and the clear sky gradually increased in - extent. Noon was the hour of totality. During totality, although the - sun was still covered with thin cirrus clouds, it was yet possible - to observe the corona through them. The entire programme was carried - through successfully, but with little hope of getting results of value. - All the astronomers stationed at or near Padang on the west coast of - Sumatra met the same fate. Fort de Kock was the only place where the - sky was perfectly clear, although it was pretty near the northern - margin of shadow, and the chance of clear weather was the poorest. Our - site was excellent for the observation of the moon’s shadow. Two or - three minutes before totality we saw the darkness approaching through - the air, on the sea to the N. W., and the shadow swept with great - rapidity towards us; at this moment totality commenced. We also noticed - that the light was approaching, from the same direction, just before - totality ended. In making the exposures I was assisted by Mr. Shakushu, - a Japanese priest at Singapore, who rendered most efficient service in - this way. After the eclipse the development of the plates was taken up. - Since the weather in camp was very hot in the daytime all the plates - were developed at night, ice being used abundantly. The resulting - negatives were nearly all satisfactory, which was contrary of the first - expectation. Yet the effect of the clouds is clearly seen in the long - exposed plates of the 5-inch telescope. - - [Illustration] - - - - - GOVERNMENT STEEL FOUNDRY - - -General Nakamura, the head of the Government Steel Foundry, when -interviewed in Tokyo, desired to express regret at the impression given -to the public that he advocates a high tariff on steel imported from -other countries, for the purpose of advancing the interests of the -institution which he represents, to the detriment of foreign producers -and to the exclusion of necessary importations from other countries. In -reply to questions he stated:-- - -“I do not advocate the increase of the tariff, nor has the question -yet been considered by the Government. What I said was that, among -the causes of the hard position in which the foundry is placed is its -inability to compete with supplies from abroad. So far losses have been -sustained by the foundry, but without an endeavor to place the value of -the turn-out on a par with foreign imports, how long can this be done? -We are endeavoring to regulate this, and possibly a more radical, or -somewhat readjusted, protective policy may be beneficial. - -“There are, of course, other causes for the still undeveloped -manufacture of steel in Japan. The present output is insufficient -for the needs of the market. Only one-third of the supply needed is -made by the Government Steel Works, and even this one-third does not -include what is needed for the other branches of consumption, such as -machinery, hardware, etc. On the other hand, the demand for steel has -considerably increased from what it was before the war, and has so -very much outstripped the supply as to be a cause of anxiety to me as -director of the works. The fluctuations in the price of steel, which -have been considerable, have also had a serious effect upon the market. -In the perfecting of the quality of the material itself, for the first -time this year it underwent the inspection of Lloyds, and it was -pronounced that the output was qualified as material for shipbuilding, -provided it passed examination. The Government Foundry has therefore -been registered at Lloyds. - -“There is, as stated, great opportunity for the development of -skilled labor among the operatives, and considering that iron work -is so difficult, the progress made is most gratifying. Most of our -instruction in steel manufacture has come from Germans, and most of -our officials are graduates of the Tokyo University who have studied -abroad. In the housing and care of the operatives some care is taken. -Rent is free, but the accommodation is not adequate to shelter the -9,000 employes. Secondly, there is a convenient supply of food at -low rates, a commissary, and in case of injury a relief fund, which -provides medicine and temporary wants, and, in the case of death, looks -after the widows and orphans. A society for this purpose has been -formed, and its interests are one of my chief concerns. The operatives -are recruited from Fukuoka prefecture and from other parts of Japan, -and while not feeling that the Japanese are particularly adapted -to this work, given the time and experience I am pleased with the -results. The average age of the operatives is thirty, and so we have -the advantage of youth and strength in our favor. The Chinese mine at -Taiyeh supplies one-half of the ore used by us, and the rest of the -ore is brought from different parts of Japan. Owing to the condition of -transportation the price of iron is appreciably dearer than in America. -Beside the material supplied to our army and navy, the remainder -is sold on the open market and consumed in the usual manner in the -manufacture of utensils and implements of commerce. The machinery used -in our workshops is from Europe and America, wherever we find the best -and most up-to-date plant. - -“In conclusion I want to say that this question of duty is a serious -one--an exceedingly serious one--one which entirely rests with our -Government, and it is not my part to enter into the decision except to -present existing conditions. It is the purpose of the Government Steel -Works in time to supply the whole demand of the country. This is our -ambition, and that is why we are focusing our attention at this moment -upon the causes of our inadequate production and failure to make good -our initial programme.” - - [Illustration] - - - - - JAPAN IN NOVEMBER - - -There is no time when Nature is so approachable as in autumn. That -season is like the green room of the actress, when she lays aside her -stage attire and in deshabille she is communicative and you gain many a -secret into her methods and her ideals and aims! - -Her laughter is no longer art, but natural, and she shows her foibles -and her whims with a childish abandonment. Kamakura has in resume, the -exquisite traits of Japanese scenery. The dominating features of the -artistic and the diminutive and then the glimpse, just a glimpse of -the grand. The sublime is a note I have never heard touched in Japan, -except at Port Arthur. - -Kamakura has also the needed accessory of a landscape, i. e., historic -background. The center of ecclesiastical domination of Buddhism in the -middle ages, the spot where the miracle of Nichiren was performed, that -beautiful episode which is so often treated in art and which reminds us -of those famous martyr dramas dear to the heart of the Christian. - -Heaven has not always interceded to save the sainted, and how the heart -leaps, when we read of those rare moments, when it has. Nichiren, we -are told, was busy during the whole of his time in exile in “teaching, -preaching, and itinerating.” - -But like many a Christian saint he did not temper his zeal with -discretion and was rearrested. - -The story is familiar to all, but it is beautiful, and like that of -Joan of Arc or Constantine or St. Martin and a host of others, will -bear repeating. - -“Kneeling down on the strand, the saintly bonze calmly uttered his -prayers and repeated ‘Namu mio ho ren ye kio’ upon his rosary. The -swordsman lifted his blade, but a light blinded his eyes, the sword was -broken and the saint was saved and afterward pardoned.” - -The surf was dashing in fine shape on the day we visited Kamakura and -the soft grey, like the color of a faded tapestry brought to our “inner -eye” the old saint and the huge blade broken, and the terror of the -evil men. Japan has this touch with the supernatural which raises her -in our esteem! - -The first glimpse of the Buddha set in the bower of maples was not -disappointing. Its vast proportions and its solemn repose fitted into -the coloring of red and yellow and the curtain of Nature softly hung -in folds of crimson and green, and a veil of mist harmonized the whole -into an etherial essence dear to the mystic. The Buddha of Kamakura -is the Prince of India, and those Hindoo lines of proud lineage, the -arch of the nose and lips and eyebrows, all tell the story of his -kingly degree. The hawk-like glance of the sovereigns of the kingdom of -princes, is of course subdued in the religionist, but I doubt if it is -extinct. - -The Buddha is after all a man and the gentleman and the boor still -show! We went once in Paris to the cloister where the women of the old -noblesse are immured and there in spite of almost inhuman rigidity of -demeanor caused by every crucifixion to mind and body “the goddess -was known in her walk” still. So difficult is it to warp and contort -Nature! So difficult and so futile! - -“Consider the lily how it grows” is an injunction that no churchman has -ever fathomed. Nor ever will! Only God did that! - -It is well that Buddha sits among the maples and the cherry blossoms, -for their wisdom may penetrate his bronze heart! The view from “Kwannon -temple” is a rare bit of Japan. - -There in the tea house we sat and drank it in, with the stimulating -beverage. - -The cliffs, the village, the ocean, the dainty colors, the aged aspect -of it all and the stir of new life, everything toned into an autumn -symphony, it only needed Chopin. - -But Chopin was far away and there is no music in Japan! How curious -that the fickle goddess left that out and set all the harmonies of -Nature in the heart of the Philippines! The “Hachiman shrine” is a bit -of Saint Marks, with its pigeons, and the avenue of ancient trees and -torii which leads up are good and far less distracting than the temple -approaches of the cities. - -Better than all was Nature’s sanctuary where all is harmony; where no -narrow sect nor vulgar stare, nor discourtesy disturbs your thought, -and where one can read the word of God uninterpreted by any narrow -priest, or any narrow passion, but in “Spirit and in Truth.” - -The colors defy all art to reproduce them, the declining year, the -memory of the rich hued summer, the pathos of something gone, the hush -of stream, the absence of bird notes, the quiet, the intimate quiet -of Nature, which is never oppressive, never aught but refreshing, and -which leaves no scar nor wound! - -The delicacy of the laying away the past and the hopefulness of it -all! We would almost like too, to fade away into the ether, laying off -the coarse garment of the flesh and finding what Buddha and every sage -has sought! - - “Some soft warm place in field, or wood, - The mother will be sure to keep, - Where we shall lay us down to sleep.” - - [Illustration] - - - - - SUNRISE OVER ASIA - - - I - - Over the old worn world he came, - Flaunting his flames of red! - The stern walls of Asia guarding the sky, - Waited in calm, as in years gone by, - Upward he came, breathless, we said-- - “Can he scale this fortress, centuries strong?” - His answer ’twas written in cohorts high! - He triumphed, night fled, - The day was begun, and Asia, she of the long, long night - Said, “Welcome, my son!” - - - II - - So up rises the day on the days that are fled! - And Asia’s sun glows a brilliant red, - And the future resplendent of Asia will come-- - Come as this sun, a splendor of life on the days that are dead! - - South China Post - - - - - MANILA AND THE PHILIPPINES - - -Just outside of Asia proper as in a proscenium box are these islands, -half mystic, half savage, like the kings who sent men out to conquer -the world, with sword in one hand and hostia in the other! - -No place on earth has had possibly a more romantic experience, full -as it has been, of the acts of primitive unchained manhood and the -infinitely worse aspects of human nature, the avarice, intrigue -political and ecclesiastical eccentricities of civilization. The whole -story is written in the annals of these verdant radiant slopes, not -all written yet! Then on pages brilliant as some illumined missal -is inscribed the devotion of the chivalrous sainthood of Spain. The -dramatic element is furnished by the Chinese invasions followed by the -British and our own and as you pass along these streets, the walls and -towers “cry out.” - -Just outside then of Hongkong, the “superb” the Genoa of the East, her -prows turned to every point of the compass, her flags the colors of -human statehood, of petty kingdoms and massive empires, the gateway -of Asia, the Asia of the North, destined like everything Northern to -outrank the South, in virility if not in subtility and charm, we of -the Philippines have a glance which takes in more than a piece of the -oriental horizon it embraces. The chiaro-oscuro after leaving the -islands at the end of a long sejour, when as at the close of life, the -colors seem to blend into one dominant tone, is a sort of soft grey, -enveloping the receding city, built so far away, at so much sacrifice; -over all the blemishes the cruelties and crudities of a society hardly -half formed, of a state hardly above the first foundations, one’s -feeling is wonder and pity, wonder that men and women have had the -courage to face it at all, pity for their heroic struggle against -ignorance and all the human brood of evils under a tropic sun, which -dries the blood in the veins and leaves the nerves tingling to every -breath and thought. - -But were this all, who would have the power to live out their story -here! In the phantasmagoria of this tropical nature there is something -ever new, ever fresh, ever upbuilding and upraising, the forces of this -universe of which we are a part. There is a measure in this Oriental -dawn, like the lines of Omar Khayyam, which swings in the rhythm of the -hours. Every day we feel we can, every day we do! Then in the embrace -of the transcendant peace of the Oriental night, we learn to watch and -wait, knowing we shall be soon with “Yesterday’s seven thousand years.” - -There is something in the atmosphere, a certain occult fluid, which -takes the place of ozone and strange as it may seem these sunburnt, -sunscorched lands have rushing over them the gales of ardor, of desire -to run the race of manhood worthily, every nerve taut, every tendon -stretched. - -“Time cannot change, nor fortune stale her infinite variety,” would -well describe Manila. - -Gathered from the four corners of the earth a motley crowd is -her citizen’s roll! Embryo politicians, incipient scholars and -philanthropists, altruists of curious conflicting lives and creeds, -every social curiosity in the gamut, from those who never saw a ship -until they reached San Francisco, who were once a cordon bleu and -are now posing as grande dames, (?) to those who have given up all the -beauty of some castle height in Spain, or some equally refined home in -America to spend their best of life and service as a tropical gift, -lavish and unstinted, without thought of return. - -We also find all the comical inconsistent forms of religionists of -every shade of narrowness and Pharisaism, at once gallant defenders -of their faith and guilty of inhuman barbarity to their fellows, -intriguing clothed with piety, just as in the old, old days, but where -is “the milk of human kindness” on the other hand sweeter to the -palate, sated as it must become with all else, where do you see lips -quiver more tenderly over a sorrow, or eyes light more divinely at -noble word, or deed! - -There is something intensely human, in our city, expressed by the -Spanish word “simpatica”! All the personalities are so well known, so -intimately and injudiciously discussed and so ineptly criticised and -then in a moment of abandonment, the praise is so real, the encomiums -worthy of an Attic sage! - -The heroes and favorites are after all well chosen in our city and her -gratitude outlasts many a more ambitious burg! There is heart in what -Manila does, often almost incoherent heart, but what is the rarest -science, the most ambitious churchism, to one drop of that pure wine of -goodness and enthusiasm, “pure and undefiled” like Him who went about -doing good? - -Slowly we are evolving a city from the middle ages to the present type -of town, full of modern action and our institutions are rising from a -substructure long prepared by the past. - -Work along the humanities at the Catholic university of St. Tomas -and by the Jesuit Fathers, at their famous school, the “Ateneo,” has -prepared the way for a national university whose buildings are rising -and whose instruction has already commenced. - -The work of the nuns, Spanish and French and German, has been an -excellent training for Filipina mothers and their family life. - -They have formed whole generations of good women, whose grace and -true womanhood put to the blush most of the American, or European -importations, with their petty jealousies, their slanders and their -utter frivolity. - -Today the Filipina girl, like her sisters in every land, aspires to -greater learning and the way is being opened also for them. - -Still in bastion like walls within the walled city, whose ancient moat -and ramparts are the pride of our town, you can see as in a vision -of other more refined days, under cape of black, white and of soft -outline, faces glowing with a devotion to the highest ideals, not of -our time. They are like a rare vintage in crystal from the sunny slopes -of Spain, or France, uplifting all women at the sight and shaming the -ignoble types of today! - -Spain taught her children scanty science, if you will, but if we teach -these people one half the goodness she left in their souls, we may -congratulate ourselves, congratulation we are not likely to be worthy -of, unless there is a speedy change for the better. - -Our hospitals are several of them, of the latest equipment and directed -by the devotion of well instructed nurses. St. Paul’s, under the -supervision of the catholics, though free to all in its beautiful -catholic spirit, is perhaps the most popular institution in the city. -French devotion has made it the delight of the sick and weary. - -Among new hospitals are the “University,” the “Civil” and the parent of -all “San Juan de Dios,” an ancient institution of splendid traditions. - -“San Lazaro” for infectious diseases will some day be one of the -foremost of its kind in the Orient. We need sadly a home for the -aged, as our over-crowded alms house is not up to date and we ought -to have other provision for our children. The “Looban convent” where -a most lovely charity is dispensed by a mother superior who radiates -goodness, with her choice spirits about her, needs more assistance and -sympathy. The “Mary Johnson” hospital is combining a training school -for nurses and the Municipal Board is encouraging in every way the -training of young woman in this most necessary branch of learning. The -sanitary conditions of the city are slowly being put on a par with -those of other cities. A new water system just opened brings the purest -of mountain liquids to our homes and down in the depths of earth a -drainage up to date is being laid. We need a first class hotel large -and combining the charms strangely little utilized, of our climate and -delightful nature. Our present hostelries are by no manner of means -to be as severely criticised as they are, as they afford quite a fair -degree of European comfort. Buildings for trade, commodious and lofty -and pretty private villas are going up in all parts of the city. Our -water front, an unsightly mass of made land, awaits the hand of the -architect to raise the state buildings, adorned with the symmetry of -art to embellish our chief glory the wide, cool stretch of ground we -call “Luneta” where we hope to see soon the statue of Rizal, who is the -chief glory of the New National life! - -A trip through the Southern islands on one of the “Smith Bell” -steamers, affords entrancing pleasure and variety of experience, and -the summer capital of Baguio and hot springs and sylvan sights are -reached by the Manila and Dagupan Railway. We have a press which -has talent but is handicapped by a narrow and very false idea of -conservatism and there is a disposition to restrict its freedom, which -is a sign of weakness if not of culpability. Great states and great -people are not afraid of criticism nor even slander. Innocence is -subjected to both, here as elsewhere, and the most innocent the most -subjected here as elsewhere. - -Who, but loves this people who has lived among them, not expecting -perfection, nor a degree of disinterestedness which we do not as a -Nation possess nor as individuals illustrate? - -The Filipino has qualities which the longer you know him, commands your -respect and sympathy and his imperfections are no more disagreeable -than those of more highly developed peoples. - -She wants freedom, this great, beautiful land, and some day it will be -hers. The day she has it depends largely on herself and on those men -and women of ideals and of ideal lives, whether Spaniards, Americans, -or her own who march with the uncrowned monarchs of the race, not -towards the spoils, but the toils of each day, head high, hearts light, -because pure from greed and remorse. - -A free people not in name but in reality. - -We have Clubs galore, English, German, French, Spanish, Filipino, the -“University Club” and the “Columbia,” this last especially for young -men. These clubs would compare favorably with those of other cities of -our size. - -Politically the islands have taken strides since the opening of the -“Philippine Assembly,” a body of men which has done credit to itself -already. The future of the islands, its prosperity lies along two -lines, mainly education and the agricultural development. Many rich -Filipinos are sending their sons to the States to be equipped for the -modern struggle, in both. - -Our Judiciary is highly praiseworthy, our Supreme Court we are very -proud of. - -The “Philippine Commission” has had men of considerable talent, men -of opportunity and availableness and its rule has not we believe been -stained with any greater faults, or crimes, than that of most governing -bodies. And it has been distinguished by much work well done. - -Some witty foreigner has said: - -“America is rather old to give as an excuse for her blundering that she -is young,” behind that sarcasm as behind all there is just a stinging -grain of truth. Our blunders as our self-assurance, the latter very -largely responsible for the former are often as amusing as instructive -to lookers-on of older civilizations, especially to those of the East, -who like the grandmother with the small boy, are startled and perplexed -at all the fancied improvements, she having spelt out that wonderous -word “life” which is the most bewildering in its meaning, some time -since. - -The aged granddame the Orient is being taught by a somewhat flighty -and exceedingly imperious and headstrong youngster and she smiles -through her wrinkles often a superfine smile as she has seen so many -toy inventions and toy states rise, fall and even pass from memory -while she still lives on. She enjoys the spectacle of western sweat and -energy and she watches as all age does to see what sort of beings this -fancied superiority has produced. It is no wonder she still keeps on -smiling as she sees the pitiful result of so much dazzling modernism -and exquisite theories and grandiloquent faith shattered the moment -you touch its adherents. It is a very, very old story as old as when -woman first bore the transgression for herself and for man and through -her patience and heroism brought atonement. But the sun still rises in -splendor over Manila and we hope and wait and long, as they have since -the first whiteness followed the first darkness--for the day. There is -late talk of giving up the task America has set herself in the East. -If she does, it will be another sign of the triumph of those qualities -which are disintegrating her life at home, greed, ambition, social, -religious and political, the unsatisfied passion for pleasure which -makes her one of the most lawless and frivolous modern Nations. - -If you touch an orange it will roll over but many shocks will not turn -a world out of its orbit, for it is held in the hand of One, who can -guide a tangent, quite as well as a steady methodical body, and who can -remove at will a whole astral system. What the future holds is one of -the most solemn enigmas but only what America is can she put in here -and “would it were worthier.” - -Across the East the dawn is coming, not because the West is come to -teach her new forms of greed and ambition, but because the forces -within her, the eternal primeval elements are stirring and forming in -the combinations which mean life. - -Within her will come her salvation, not from without, from the Oriental -himself will come the best of his future. - -Western civilization has failed to produce on any large scale, noble -character, the East knows it. It has watched the falseness of the state -craft, the greater falseness of its religious love of aggrandizement, -it has seen in the adherents of the latter no reason to choose them as -a pattern, quite the contrary. - -The simple truthful faith of Christ whose ethical teachings are so -direct, so free from sophistry, a child might read it has been and is -today, the excuse for the darkest crimes. Said one of the leaders of -the Christian faith in Japan, “It is only with sinking heart one can -point to a faith which bears such fruits, when the so-called heathen -can teach us any day conduct which outshines ours as the sun a glow -worm.” From within must come the truth of God in her own soul as men -are every day more powerless to live it or teach it, though the truth -remains eternally vital. - -May the God of light guide this great, glorious Orient into a future of -illustrious achievement and untarnished ideals. - - [Illustration] - - - PRESS OF - STAPLES PRINTING CO. - 142 ESCOLTA - - - - - The Ancient - Three Graces - WERE - FAITH - HOPE - CHARITY - - [Illustration] - - The Modern - Three Graces - ARE - DIVINOS - EXCELENTES - ESPECIALES - - [Illustration] - - ALHAMBRA - - - - - Do You Know That We Deal in - - BOOKS - - Come to see us or write to us about your wants - - 90 UP - ESCOLTA PHILIPPINE EDUCATION STAIRS - - - Lack & Davis Cold Stores - - CALLE ECHAGUE. - -_Only the best of American and Australian Frozen Meats, Game, Fish, -Oysters and Dairy Produce handled_ - -_All Fresh Fruits and Vegetables in Season_ - - TELEPHONE 308 - - - LEE TAI RESTAURANT - - Regular Meals and Short Orders - Only the Best Provisions Used - - - MONTHLY BOARD P40.00 TICKETS 15 MEALS P9.00 - - 124-126 REAL, INTRAMUROS - Formerly La Serrana Hotel - - - - - La Estrella del Norte - - THE TIFFANY OF THE PHILIPPINES - - JEWELS - -Call and inspect our collection of beautiful gems. Sparkling and -exquisitely cut Diamonds, the crimson glow of Rubies, the brilliant -Sapphire, the limpid Pearl and the mystic Opal. - -Emeralds and Turquoise, Topaz and Coral in fine setting - - - LEVY HERMANOS - 46 ESCOLTA - - - LA PERLA - - Fábrica de Bizcochos y Dulces - - de =J. E. MONROY= - - Plaza de Sta. Cruz Nos. 96-98, Manila Teléfono No. 1296 - -PREMIADA EN LAS EXPOSICIONES DE HANOY EN 1902 Y ST. LOUIS E. U. A. EN -1904 - - - Vaqueria Española - - DE ALBERTO SISI - - LECHE PURA DE VACAS A TODAS HORAS - - - Chupa 20 centimos - - Servicio á Domicilio - - - ALIX 233, SAMPALOC MANILA, I. F. - - - - - PAINLESS DENTISTRY - - T. H. Stevens, Dentist - - 63 ESCOLTA - - Somnoform, or Laughing Gas $1.00 - Gold Crowns, from 2.00 - Bridges, from 10.00 - - - _BEAUTY PARLORS_ - - COOL, AIRY AND DAINTY - - Scalp Treatment - Facial Massage - Turkish Baths - Shampooing - Manicuring - -FIRST CLASS IN EVERY PARTICULAR - - 6 to 12} WEEK DAYS All Day Saturday, - 4 to 10} Sunday and Holidays - - MRS. GARNER - - - - - 83 REAL, ERMITA - - - Builders of Up-to-Date Vehicles Telephone 209 - of Every Description - - - Rosenberg’s Carriage Works - - 147-155 Calle Nueva, Ermita - - HARRY ROSENBERG Repairing Neatly Done - Proprietor at Moderate Prices - - - - - Fine Horses Clean Cocheros - - _The_ - WALDORF - 266 - - Easy Rigs Prompt Service - - - _ALMON_ - - Native Lumber - CHEAPER THAN - Oregon Pine - - Insular Lumber Co. - Lack & Davis Bldg. - - - - - American Book & - News Company - - Latest Fiction - reduced from - P3.00 to P2.00 - - [Illustration] - - SHIPMENTS RECEIVED WEEKLY - - ¶. We are reducing our stock - of books and selling many - titles at less than publishers’ - ~price~, including Scientific - :: Technical and Historical :: - - McCullough Building Manila, P. I. - - - - - PEARLS - - THE MOST MARVELOUS COLLECTION - OF ODD AND UNUSUAL ARTICLES - MADE FROM - - MOTHER OF PEARL - THE TRUEST SOUVENIR OF THE - PHILIPPINES - IS ONE OF THE MANY USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL DESIGNS - - RINGS - SINGLE PEARLS, CLUSTERS AND PRINCESS DESIGNS; - LUCENT AND LUSTROUS IN COLOR, IN 18kt. SETTINGS; - SCARFPINS IN NEW AND DAINTY STYLES - - WATCH OUR MOTHER OF PEARL SIGN - - [Illustration] - - LA CONCHA BUTTON FACTORY - 82 ESCOLTA - - - - - BOOK LOVERS - - A complete line of poets, published in a - household edition. A desirable addition - to your book shelves. Each one a library - in itself - - LONGFELLOW CARY EMERSON HOLMES - TENNYSON WHITTIER - - JOHN R. EDGAR & CO. - 143 ESCOLTA - - - _The Methodist Publishing House_ - - Now in their own building at 6-12 Isla del Romero - - PRINTING _and_ - BOOKBINDING - - _Superior Work at Reasonable Prices_ - - - Wm. H. Anderson & Co. - IMPORTERS - - GREEN ISLAND CEMENT SWIFT & COMPANY - LIBBY, M’NEILL & LIBBY - SWALLOW & ARIELL COLGATE & COMPANY - - _25 PLAZA GOITI_ - - - - - CLARKE’S - - FINEST - RESTAURANT - IN THE - EAST - - 2 ESCOLTA MANILA, P. I. - - - GERMINAL - - FOR THE - - BUSINESS MAN LAWYER - DOCTOR ARTIST - AUTHOR OFFICER - PRIVATE DENTIST - SURGEON SURVEYOR - MINER SAILOR - FOR THEM ALL - - GERMINAL - THE PREMIER CIGAR AND CIGARETTE - FOR SALE EVERYWHERE - - - - - Hongkong & Shanghai Banking Corporation - - DEPOSITORY FOR THE GOVERNMENT OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS - - Capital, all paid in cash, $15,000,000 - - -RESERVE FUNDS - -Sterling Reserve held in London at exchange of 2l. per $--£1,500,000 -Sterling, invested in Consols and other - - sterling securities, $15,000,000 - Silver Reserve, $14,500,000 - ----------- - $29,500,000 - - Reserve Liability of Proprietors $15,000,000 - - =COURT OF DIRECTORS AND= Chief Manager - =HEAD OFFICE IN HONGKONG= =J. R. M. SMITH.=--Hongkong - -=London Bankers.=--London & County Banking Co. Limited - - - =Manila Agency, Established 1875 - Sub-Agency in Iloilo. - Agents at Cebu, Messrs. Ker & Co.= - -The Bank buys and sells and receives for collection Bills of Exchange, -issues Letters of Credit on its branches and correspondents in the -East, the United States, Canada, Great Britain, Continent of Europe, -Australia & Africa, and transacts banking business of every description. - -Current Accounts opened in Philippine Currency. - -Fixed Deposits received at rates which may be had on application. - - =A. G. STEPHEN, Manager,--Manila= - - - - - THE NOBBY - - TAILORS - SHIRTMAKERS - HABERDASHERS - - 137 ESCOLTA MANILA - - - _SODA_ - - _Drink only the guaranteed kind - Strictly pure and high grade_ - - _WATSON’S SODA_ - - - WARNER, BARNES & CO., Lᵀᴰ MANILA - - AGENTS - NIPPON YUSEN KAISHA - - - REGULAR LINES BETWEEN JAPAN AND - AUSTRALIA, EUROPE AND AMERICA - - - - - _YOU_ - - can only die once, but I can dye for you, not once but many times. - - - Perfection - - in cleaning, renovating, dyeing and bleaching. - - - ALL WORK GUARANTEED AND PRICE REASONABLE - - - PLAZA SANTA CRUZ - - JOE BUSH - - - - - The Continental - - THE HOTEL IN THE HEART OF THE BUSINESS DISTRICT - - _Unexcelled Cuisine - Irreproachable Service - Immaculate Rooms_ - - - PLAZA GOITI MANILA, P. I. - - - - - INTERNATIONAL BANKING CORPORATION - - DEPOSITORY FOR THE GOVERNMENT OF THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS - - - CAPITAL SURPLUS - $3,250,000 U. S. C. Paid up. $3,250,000, U. S. C. - - Head Office 60 Wall St., N. Y. - London Office Threadneedle House, London - - - GENERAL BANKING BUSINESS TRANSACTED - - BILLS PURCHASED AND DRAFTS ISSUED ON ALL PRINCIPAL CITIES - - SPECIAL SAVINGS DEP’T - - Deposits of P1.00 and up receive 3% interest - - LOCAL AGENCY MANILA OFFICE - CEBU PLAZA MORAGA - - - - - Cadwallader-Gibson Lumber Co. - - -Retail and Wholesale dealers in Lumber, Sash, Doors, Mouldings and -Furniture. Owners and operators of the largest and most completely -equipped Sash, Door, Moulding and Furniture Factory in the Orient. - - -_“Gibson’s” Furniture_ - - Office and Factory: Calle Rodriguez Arias. - Phone 317. Yards: Calle Rodriguez Arias, - and at 302 San Miguel. - - - - - M. TAGAWA - - IMPORTERS & EXPORTERS - - Nos. 26-28 Plaza de Moraga - - Phone 84 Cable Address, - P. O. Box 287 “Tagawa” - - - MANILA, P. I. - - - Money _to_ Loan _on Good Security_ - _Precious Stones Bought and Sold_ - - - U. S. LOAN COMPANY - - _Fine Watch and Jewelry Repairing done by experts_ - - _JULIUS MARGELIN, Mgr._ - - _Nos. 6, 8 and 10 Calle Salcedo_, - MANILA, P. I. - - - _Are you a homeward bounder?_ - - IF SO, - - CALL IN AND BE FITTED UP WITH WOOLEN CLOTHES AND EVERYTHING NECESSARY - FOR THE TRIP - - EXPERT CLEANING AND RENOVATING - - - Edward Bond - Tel. 1115 134 Calle Real - WALLED CITY - - - - - FAR EASTERN REVIEW - - THE JOURNAL OF COMMERCE FINANCE AND ENGINEERING - - GEO. BRONSON REA, Publisher. - WM. CROZIER, Editor. - - McCullough Building, - MANILA, P. I. - - - - - ROSES ROSES ROSES - - EUROPEAN AND JAPANESE NURSERY - - F. MIYASAKI - - Horticulturist. - - CALLE SINGALONG MANILA, P. I. - - - - - GEO. W. SIMMIE, TELEPHONE 302 - Pres. and Genl. Manager. P. O. BOX 582 - - [Illustration: CALL FLAG - - “J”] - - J. L. PIERCE, - Secretary and Treasurer. - - - LUZON STEVEDORING CO. - -Official Stevedores U. S. Army Transport Fleet and U. S. Navy Colliers -and Supply Vessels - -MARINE CONTRACTORS & SHIP CHANDLERS, WATER-BOATS, LAUNCHES AND LIGHTERS - -S. & P. BUILDING, WATERFRONT, FOOT CALLE MADRID - -LOCAL AGENCY - -“MERCHANT SERVICE GUILD” - - Cable Address: “SIMPIERCE” MANILA, P. I. - - - - - Castle Bros.--Wolf & Sons - - IMPORTERS AND EXPORTERS - - Plaza Moraga - - Manila The Philippines - - - Standard Oil Company of New York - - PRODUCERS AND REFINERS OF PETROLEUM AND ITS PRODUCTS - -Illuminating and Lubricating Oils, Naphtha, Paraffine Wax, Petroleum -Jelly, Axle Grease, Rope Oil, Mineral Colza Oil, Standard Floor -Dressing, Lighthouse, Signal and Headlight Oils, etc., etc. - -Latest Improved Blue Flame Oil Stoves, (from 1 to 5 burners each). -Heat, Ashes, Dirt, Smoke, etc., all done away with. - - =Famous “Rayo” Lamps and “Dietz” Lanterns - Pure Fuel for small night lamps= - - HIGH GRADE ILLUMINATING OIL FOR FAMILY USE - - 95 Anloague, Manila - - - _Lines of Steamers to_ - - RIZAL, LAGUNA, PAMPANGA, BATAAN, CAVITE AND ZAMBALES - -_=We offer special opportunities to form Excursion Parties to the -picturesque towns on the river, lake and bay=_ - - FOR DETAILS APPLY TO - - Theodoro R. Yangco - - 163 Muelle de la Reina, Manila, P. I. - - - - - STUDIO - -finest equipped and has the most modern and expensive apparatus in the -Islands. We have special facilities for taking large groups::: - - 147 ESCOLTA MARTI - - - THE IMPERIAL Telephone - 443 - - - _Cool, Airy Rooms - Fine American Table-Board_ - - -AH SAM, Proprietor - -_181-193 Calle Magallanes_ _Walled City_ - - -_THE BEST SIGN IS THE ONE DOW PAINTS_ - - -_That is if you DO believe in Signs_ - -PHONE 1259 - - _3-5 Isla de Romero_ _Manila, P. I._ - - - - - The Manila Ice Factory, Ltd. - - ======PHONE 588======= - - - _Ice made from_ - - PURE, DISTILLED WATER - POPULAR PRICE - EXCELLENT HOUSE SERVICE - - _Calle San Miguel 233_ - - - _Wah Sing_ - - _LADIES’ - DRESSMAKER_ - - FANCY BLOUSES - AND WALKING SKIRTS - REASONABLE PRICES - - - _Calle Real, Intramuros_ - - - J. REYES - - _The most Popular Photographer in Manila_ - - Phone 1596 42 San Roque, Santa Cruz - - - ELITE STUDIO - - FINE PHOTOGRAPHS - ARTISTIC POSES - EXCEPTIONAL FINISH - - Calle Salcedo Manila, P. I. - - - - - Madame Valette - - - Reception and Dinner Gowns - Lingerie and Dancing Frocks - Shopping Suits and Tailored Skirts - Blouses and Matinées - - AN EXQUISITE AND VERY CHIC LINE OF - - MILLINERY - - Modes direct from Paris - - - 147 ESCOLTA - - - The Famous Chocolates - - LA MARINA - - - Rueda Hermanos - - Plaza Moraga 25-29 Manila, P. I. - - - BOREAL STUDIO - - _No. 313 Jolo, Binondo-Manila_ - - Se retrata - diariamente de 8¹⁄₂ - a.m. á 4 p.m. - - Especialidad - en ampliaciones y retratos - sobre opalina - - - B. GOMEZ Y CO., Propietarios - - - - - 800 HOURS WITHOUT WINDING - - OUR LATEST EUROPEAN NOVELTY IN WATCHES - - EL ZENITH - - 37 ESCOLTA - - A FINE LINE OF DIAMONDS AND JEWELRY--FULL ASSORTMENT OF - WATCHES--SOUVENIRS IN GOLD AND SILVER--ALL KINDS OF OPTICAL GOODS:: - - - PHONE 177 INTRAMUROS - - _EXILE STABLES_ - - The Largest and Fastest Automobiles in the City. - - FIRST CLASS LIVERY SERVICE. - - - _UNDERWOOD TYPEWRITERS_ - _WALTHAM WATCHES_ - _ARMS and AMMUNITION_ - - DIRECT IMPORTATION - =================== - LOWEST PRICES : : : - - - C. ALKAN - 100 ESCOLTA - - - - - Pio Trinidad Fernandez - - IMPORTADOR - - PIANOS DE - - “TRINIDAD,” “ZEITTER & WINKELMANN,” “RORDORF Y C.ᴬ” - - Pianola marca “APOLLO.” - - Fábrica de pianos y muebles de lujo. - - Gran taller de reparaciones de pianos y otros instrumentos de música - único en su clase y medios disponibles. - - Un gran surtido de materiales para reparaciones de pianos, órganos y - harmoniums. - - Cuerdas de acero para Mandolina, Bandurria, Guitarra y Piano. - - - PRECIOS ECONOMICOS - - Ronquillo 135, Sta. Cruz Manila, Islas Filipinas - - - La Alejandria - - FABRICA DE TABACOS Y CIGARRILLOS - - DE - - RICARDO GOCHUICO - - 223 Rosario Manila, P. I. - - - Best in the Orient - - TAILORS AND SHIRT MAKERS - - The Manila Fashion - - Valera & Co., proprietors - - 73 Escolta Manila, P. I. - - - - - _Vaqueriza Santacruz_ - - EX PROVEEDORA DE LA PROTECCION DE LA INFANCIA - - _Despacho de Leche Fresca de Vacas Australianas_ - - ANALIZADA Y GARANTIZADA - - SERVICIO A DOMICILIO AL CONTADO - - ALONSO HERMANOS, Prop. - - ESTERO CEGADO 50 Y QUIOTAN 29 - - - BEST IMPORTED - - Meats, Fish, Game, Poultry, Fruits and Vegetables:: - - FINE DAIRY PRODUCTS CAN ALWAYS BE SECURED AT - - The Philippines Cold Stores - - 172 ECHAGUE, MANILA, P. I. - PHONE 238 - - - PHONE 61 - - What for? - - Why for Distilled Water, of course. - - - DISTILLED WATER CO. - - 57 NAGTAJAN - - - - - MANILA RAILROAD COMPANY - -The quickest route to Calamba, Los Baños and Lake towns is via Batangas -extension of the Manila Railroad Company. - -Quick and frequent service from Paco, Santa Mesa, and Tondo. - - -CAVITE EXTENSION - -Frequent trains to Bacoor (for Imus) and points round the Bay to -Cavite. Delightful excursions over M. R. R. Co.’s lines to Montalban, -Antipolo, etc. - - - FOR SPECIAL RATES APPLY: - - Manila Railroad Company - - - - - A NON-INTOXICATING COMPOUND OF FINEST AND PUREST - - HOPS & MALT - -Guaranteed not to contain more than 1.70% alcohol by weight. - - - _MALTINA_ - - BREWED EXPRESSLY FOR ARMY AND NAVY IN THE PHILIPPINES - - BY - - SAN MIGUEL BREWERY - - - - - _PALOMAR PARK_ - - A REFINED PLACE - - GOOD MUSIC GOOD THINGS TO EAT - - _The right place for Ladies and Gentlemen to enjoy a pleasant evening - amid refined surroundings_ - - WE MAKE YOU LAUGH - - TAKE THE ASCARRAGA CAR - - EVERYTHING MOVES AT PALOMAR - - - - -Transcriber’s Notes - -Errors in punctuation have been fixed. - -Page 20: “a a few” changed to “a few”. - -Page 23: “gates of Pyengyang” changed to “gates of Pyongyang” - -Page 24: “The guage” changed to “The gauge” - -Page 30: “Greek panitings” changed to “Greek paintings” - -Page 31: “evening entertaiment” changed to “evening entertainment” - -Page 46: “mayor it justly” changed to “mayor is justly” - -Page 51: “Uyeno and Ochadomidzu” changed to “Uyeno and Ochanomidzu” - -Page 69: “House of Purs” changed to “House of Peers” - -Page 71: “I revisted” changed to “I revisited” - -Page 76: “electricity, manufactury” changed to “electricity, -manufactory” - -Page 85: “very unsatifactory” changed to “very unsatisfactory” - -Page 86: “I belive” changed to “I believe” - -Page 104: “bastian like walls” changed to “bastion like walls” “in -crsytal” changed to “in crystal” - -Page 106: “a Nation possesss” changed to “a Nation possess” - -Page 132: “Fábrica de piauos” changed to “Fábrica de pianos” - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OUTPOSTS OF ASIA *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Outposts of Asia</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Morilla Maria Norton</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: November 22, 2022 [eBook #69407]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This book was produced from images made available by the HathiTrust Digital Library.)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OUTPOSTS OF ASIA ***</div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</span></p> - -<div class="bbox"> - -<h1> OUTPOSTS<br><i>of</i><br> ASIA</h1> -</div> -<div class="bbox"> -<p class="center p2"> -<i>By</i><br> -<br> -MORILLA MARIA NORTON<br> -<br> -<span class="small"><i>Author of</i></span><br> -<br> -Songs of the Pacific<br> -A Kingdom of the Sea<br> -Verses from the Orient<br> -Gloria Victis<br> -</p> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Decorative image"> -</span></p> -</div> -<div class="bbox"> -<p class="center p2"> -THE MAGNET PUBLISHING CO.<br> -MANILA, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS<br> -</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - - - -<p class="center p2"> -COPYRIGHT, 1909<br> -<span class="big">MORILLA MARIA NORTON</span><br> -MANILA, PHILIPPINES<br> -</p></div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</span></p> - -<p class="poetry">To M. B. N.</p> - - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Great Mother, dead but living,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Living but dead,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The snow falls fast,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">In this death month of all the year.</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">White flakes like messengers</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sent upon the blast,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">From Heaven to light upon thy bier.</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Like this death month of Nature</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Such thou wert and art;</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cold with unsullied purity of will,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">White with the soul’s austerity of charity,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Yet holding all the flames</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Of summer’s glory in thy heart.</span><br> -</p> - -<p class="poetry">Yokohama<br> -January 7, 1909<br> -</p> -</div> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</span></p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="FOREWORD"><i>FOREWORD</i></h2> -</div> - - -<p>In writing this book of a journey through Manchuria, Korea and Japan, -it is partly a tribute to the hospitality of the Imperial Railway -through whose kindness I made the picturesque tour on the track of the -fighting line across countries on which so much attention has been -focused in these last years, partly to fulfill a pledge made to the -Manila Merchants Association, to write in a book of travel through -Russia a chapter on Manila, which chapter is the last in the volume.</p> - -<p>Among the few treasures which the traveler feels he must carry away -from that land of art—Japan—the writer chose a kakemono representing -the grim old fighter Ieyasu dressed in his stiff brocade of choice -pattern which the elegance of his life demanded.</p> - -<p>He sits not on horse, nor in palanquin, but at ease and in reflective -mood in his home, his queer head-dress arching out from his falcon-like -head, holding in one hand a sword even in this hour of leisure, ready -to spring upon his country’s foes, in the other hand a roll of paper, -for he was like the great Charlemagne, a man of letters, as well as of -battles.</p> - -<p>Sensitive, fine and piercing as a blade, is his glance, delicate as -a woman in the finish of his attitude, yet commanding, imperious, -indomitable and over all and through all, a scholar, not in the -infinitesimal detail of the school, but in the magnificent sense -of life, one who learns from all experience and progresses through -everything and acquires in every phase of fortune and misfortune, -leaving to the world the priceless inheritance of such scholarship, -hope, faith—nay, charity! What Ieyasu was, so to me seems his<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</span> race, -imbued with the large serenity which grasps ages, not minutes; it can -conquer, or be conquered, with equal grace, without self-elation, or -self-abasement, but with the majestic nature of the true theist and the -true altruist advances to its destiny reaching as does all greatness -its maturity slowly, until it becomes the master of itself and of -others.</p> - -<p>The ethical beauty of the home life of Japan, the charming routine of -the schools, the fraternal relations in the army and navy, the courtesy -between master and servant, in the factory and the shop, and in the -home is all delightful to see, and the welcome to the stranger, that -finest flower of civilization, as of character, to feel!</p> - -<p>The soft grey coloring, the subdued green, the reserve of forest and -field, unlike our own exuberant Philippines, at first seem shy, demure, -not a little austere, but as you pass the days and nights there the -subtle influence of the Northern Italy works its miracle and you yield -as every one has before you, captivated by an influence too complex to -define. Japan has the “charme intime,” as the French say, the charm -which penetrates but holds forever.</p> - -<p>Massive, Greek-like Korea and colossal Manchuria, bold, daring as the -fastnesses of Asia are, overwhelm the imagination and leave you stirred -to their heroic level!</p> - -<p>But a glimpse, a panorama of these graphic countries is all these pages -can bring.</p> - -<p>Each has a magnetism one must experience, and as one New Englander said -of his native town, it needs no pennies in their fountains to call you -back to retread their sublime and lofty pinnacles, or their exquisite -by-paths.</p> - -<p>These pages were for the most part published in the daily press of -Japan, and were written “en voyage” or within the hospitable doors of -the Astor House, Seoul and the Bluff Hotel in Yokohama. They form notes -of travel rather than a conventional book.</p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS"><i>CONTENTS</i></h2> -</div> - -<hr class="r5"> -<table class="autotable"> -<tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#PORT_ARTHUR">PORT ARTHUR</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_9">9</a> -</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#MOUKDEN">MOUKDEN</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_17">17</a> -</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#MANCHURIA">MANCHURIA</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_23">23</a> -</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#SEOUL">SEOUL</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_29">29</a> -</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#JAPANESE_IN_KOREA">JAPANESE IN KOREA</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_37">37</a> -</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#TOKYO_AND_ITS_MAYOR">TOKYO AND ITS MAYOR</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_43">43</a> -</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#JAPANESE_RAILWAYS">JAPANESE RAILWAYS</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_49">49</a> -</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#MADAME_SHIMODA">MADAME SHIMODA</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_55">55</a> -</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#PEERESS_SCHOOL">PEERESS’ SCHOOL</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_61">61</a> -</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#KANEKO">KANEKO</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_67">67</a> -</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#EXPOSITION_NOTES">EXPOSITION NOTES</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_75">75</a> -</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#BARON_TAKAHASHI">BARON TAKAHASHI</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_81">81</a> -</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#TOKYO_OBSERVATORY">TOKYO OBSERVATORY</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_85">85</a> -</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#GOVERNMENT_STEEL_FOUNDRY">GOVERNMENT STEEL FOUNDRY</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_91">91</a> -</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#JAPAN_IN_NOVEMBER">JAPAN IN NOVEMBER</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_95">95</a> -</td></tr><tr> -<td class="tdl"> -<a href="#MANILA_AND_THE_PHILIPPINES">MANILA AND THE PHILIPPINES</a></td> -<td class="tdr page"> -<a href="#Page_101">101</a> -</td></tr> -</table> -<p> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</span></p> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</span> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="PORT_ARTHUR">PORT ARTHUR</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_p.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">Port</span> Arthur is the most dramatic spot away from Europe: nothing that -Nature can do, or history suggest of grandeur is lacking in this -stupendous panorama!</p> - -<p>Hills which have been swept bare by shot and shell are still bare and -will be as the palm of the hand, to denote what has passed over them!</p> - -<p>A huge fortress-like eminence suggesting Gibraltar, stands out like the -champion of the army before the series of forts which lie behind it.</p> - -<p>There are two bays, “Pigeon Bay” and “Kerr Bay,” which have dimpled -waters of sparkling blue and admit ships on both sides of this gigantic -promontory.</p> - -<p>As you leave the station, you find yourself facing a long stretch of -unkempt ground, over which the new town is being erected inland.</p> - -<p>Further behind lie the cliffs, rising one within another, with a series -of natural fortifications, one of which has begun its immortal fame, -“203 Metres Hill.”</p> - -<p>Its sides are covered with huge stones, piled in volcanic confusion, -partly by nature, partly by the concussion of balls.</p> - -<p>This point, as all remember, was surrounded by a barbed wire fence and -heaps of sand bags.</p> - -<p>On one edge men passed over living flesh and dying flesh, their hands -torn from the sockets, as they mounted up a perpendicular side of some -three hundred feet.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</span></p> - -<p>The hills on the land side are well covered with the rough and tumble -of the up-torn rocks, pieces of bone and rusty implements and the torn -sand bags are still there. Seventeen thousand men fell on this hill and -it took five days to capture it.</p> - -<p>Once on top after a climb of some twenty minutes of slow scrambling, -like the ascent of the pyramids, you reach the summit. Then you realize -why Russia wanted to keep it and Japan to win it at any cost. It is a -center of billowy hills on the land side and of the whole sweep of bays -and promontories stretching out towards the Yellow Sea and Pechilli Bay.</p> - -<p>Port Arthur is the sharp beak of the promontory, which cuts into two -waters and can guard the lands of Japan, Korea and China. As you stand -then on the top of “203 Metres Hill” you have at your back hills, -in the front the towns, the circling mountains about the water, the -advanced cliffs of the defensive works and the bays and the sea. Your -guns can command any point and your view has every detail before it. -You are, as I remember, about one mile and a half from town.</p> - -<p>This latter is composed of a small park from which the adorning center -has been removed, whether in disgrace as offensive to non-classical -taste or not I do not know.</p> - -<p>The Civil Office building is new or repaired and not specially -attractive as the Japanese do not seem to care to put beauty in their -public buildings. A new and very elaborate hotel soon to be opened, is -being put up.</p> - -<p>This is made out of concrete and stone, quarried, I believe, out of the -near-by mountains. The roads leave everything to be desired; they are -full of ruts and must be horrible<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</span> in the rainy months.</p> - -<p>The Czar’s mother built the “Red Cross Hospital” whose gigantic -outlines of red warm the heart during the frozen months of a Manchurian -winter.</p> - -<p>Vice Admiral Hashimoto and his lovely family live in a palatial -residence, while set in wide gardens at only a few feet away is the -steep descent to the gate of the navy yard, where you can stroll about -with a guide seeing sunken ships being repaired and the “Amur,” one -of Russia’s relics lying on her side, kept there as a reminder of the -dreadful days gone.</p> - -<p>Shops full of busy workmen are alongside and the little men who are -hard at work to the ceaseless blows of the hammer, bob about blithely -at their tasks, getting ready for another conflict.</p> - -<p>Far up over one’s head, on the terraced gardens, I saw a marquise and -asked what it had been used for.</p> - -<p>It was the Russian bandstand, where every evening the Russians played -their national airs; now only the breeze blows its requiem there, for -“dead souls.”</p> - -<p>Nearby is the “Army and Navy Club” at whose inviting door I bade good -bye to the American Consul who had so gallantly chaperoned me for the -day.</p> - -<p>The visit to Port Arthur for a lady alone, would not be agreeable. We -had the pleasure of meeting the commanding general, Membo Camio, and he -told us about his two dogs and they were introduced, one of them his -special favorite, “a left over” from Russian occupation!</p> - -<p>Dog lovers know no geographical lines and his most interesting face -took on that peculiar “love me, love my dog” look seen on the faces of -those devoted to canine pets.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</span></p> - -<p>It was an easy task for me and while they talked diplomatic -compliments, I talked dog.</p> - -<p>I told General Camio of a friend in Manila who possessed one from the -Russian fleet, a beautiful collie, given her from off the fugitive -Russian ships. How also on the Fourth of July the sensitive creature -crept away to avoid hearing the firing, which brings to mind that awful -day.</p> - -<p>We were provided with a guide, by the kindness of the general, to the -war museum and to General Stossel’s house.</p> - -<p>This residence was and is a very plain one, not very large, set on a -single hill commanding a view over the forts and town opposite and is -opposite the new palace of the civil governor.</p> - -<p>General Nakamura, who was acting governor of Manchuria, a most affable -and agreeable personality, did us voluntarily a great service, which -he anticipated the moment we came into the room. He gave us our return -pass to Fusan, as Baron Goto of the South Manchurian Railway was away -from his home in Dalny.</p> - -<p>The delicate way the Japanese, in their kindness even think for one, is -wonderful.</p> - -<p>“’Twas fated I should seek this battle field and here above the -multitudinous dead, be the white victim, growing daily whiter. The -breath of death has rustled thru my hair! The shudder of death has -passed athwart my soul! I am all white, a sacrificial host!”</p> - -<p>So felt the Duke of Reichstadt at Wagram, so feels every noble soul at -Port Arthur. It is for humanity, an altar of blood and fire!</p> - -<p>The fields have been put under the plow, but labor cannot wait.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</span></p> - -<p>The necessities of existence have, perhaps fortunately, no sentiment. -Parts of our road are blasted thru the solid rock. We move towards -the battle field, watching alternately the dismantled homes and the -primitive methods of agriculture. Some buildings are left as wrecks. -The configuration grows every mile more sinister. In a distant low -roofed building we are told that General Stoessel surrendered but it is -all a dream; we are seeking something. There on the horizon! Yes, it -rises! Calm as at creation’s dawn, when its Maker saw this hour. “203 -Metres Hill”! Name forever immortal!</p> - -<p>Oh, the sublimity of the view over that billowy plain from its summit! -There “Pigeon Bay” and “Kerr Bay.” The monuments of Russia’s generosity -and Japan’s gratitude.</p> - -<p>We visited the war museum and the Administration buildings. The blue of -that day’s sky, so blue, with the glory of the sun on the “Golden Hill” -and the “Tiger’s Tail” forts but the hosts were visible to the unseen -eye, the cries of agony and victory were in our ears and in the garden -of General Stoessel we found growing the flowers so thoughtless, or so -healing of it all! The flowers which have no memory!</p> - -<p class="poetry" xml:lang="fr" lang="fr"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Les fleurs nont pas de memoire,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nouvelles dans un monde ancien!”</span><br> -</p> - -<p>General Stoessel’s house has still one room, kept as it was with some -startling brocade furniture, but the other rooms are being turned into -offices, I believe, of the war department.</p> - -<p>Our minds were filled with an awful pathos as we wandered about and the -light jests of our companions did not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</span> seem in place. The garden was -much as it was, doubtless a tangle of marigolds and astors, and we were -told to carry away as much as our arms would hold, which we did. Ah, -nature, how little thou dost care!</p> - -<p>The war museum has a fence surrounding it which shows every kind of -defense in the way of crossed spikes and barbed wire and other sorts of -infernal devices used in sieges.</p> - -<p>Inside you can see war accoutrements, garments, implements, dynamos, -bombs, machines of every sort to destroy, until the mind sickens.</p> - -<p>Plans of now disused forts show how they were taken, where blown up, -where tunneled; earthworks and redoubts we passed on our way over -and all the ingenious ways are still there of how men can protect -themselves from death and deal out death to each other.</p> - -<p>I never heard once either in Japan or Manchuria, or Port Arthur, where -pride, military pride, if ever, would be admissible, one word of -boasting and one little Jap said at Port Arthur, “The Russians need -never be ashamed of Port Arthur. To the everlasting disgrace be it of a -nation which will punish men for doing as well as they could.”</p> - -<p>To view this remarkable place which will be in time one of the great -tourist points of the East, one need count no fatigue too great.</p> - -<p>No trip in Europe offers more grandeur both in natural setting and -historic significance.</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: -5em;">Marathon, salute thy peers. The years have taken much, but left us men,</span><br> -<span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</span><span style="margin-left: -5em;">Men of thy stature, O, Sophocles, who asked the fairest boon,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -5em;">To die like heroes, even if to taste life were still denied,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -5em;">Thinking with scorn of late, or soon, the now, or then.</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -5em;">Empires may lose their monarchs and renown,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -5em;">But never to be forgotten is this hill, dyed in the purple of man’s supreme nobility,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -5em;">For here the Hand which balances each crown,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -5em;">Placed forevermore a diadem of heroes, on brothers death mowed down.</span><br> -</p> - - -<p class="center">(Written on “203 Metres Hill”)</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001a"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Decorative image"> -</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MOUKDEN">MOUKDEN</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_t.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">The</span> mountain effects as you near Moukden, are every day finer. The -august abysses and the tremendous onward sweep of the track, the -seemingly impossible turns and cavernous leaps are all indescribable!</p> - -<p>As you near the city of Moukden you see a saddle-shaped height to which -the contending armies of the last war climbed and fought.</p> - -<p>On one height you also see a shaft commemorative of the Japanese dead. -All is prophetic of what is beyond.</p> - -<p>Moukden is at the heart of China with Port Arthur and Harbin about -equally distant. A strongly fortified place, a strategic point of China -life and politics and of a value well known to her friends and her -enemies!</p> - -<p>Pekin is but two days away and the stone wall of wonderful fame but -twenty hours, and what means more than all to this traveler, we are -but one night’s ride from Port Arthur, over a good road which is being -double tracked and is to be furnished shortly with first class American -cars!</p> - -<p>Moukden is built on a vast plain and has a horizon line worthy of the -plains of Dakota. A wall of truly Chinese dimensions encloses the -traffic which goes on with the usual Chinese volubility. A wide and new -boulevard is being made by the Japanese, running from the station to -the ancient city. This has a modern look, but not so what passes along -it! Such a motley array of human clothes and shapes!</p> - -<p>It is indeed a Vanity Fair. The huge Manchurians with a “devil may -care” air. The Japanese looking anxious and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</span> uneasy at so much to be -done.</p> - -<p>The ox carts with strange passengers inside them! The jinrickshas with -their Chinese runners with more “devil may care manners”! The street -hucksters, the few Europeans and the rich natives with their coolies, -the stir of one of the busiest cities of the East and one of the most -original, that all makes Moukden!</p> - -<p>The recruits are exercising out in front of the American consulate -and raw they are, but quick, and the military steps are fast becoming -familiar to them.</p> - -<p>An ancient pagoda surely contemporary with David is on this street: -this Parisian boulevard of Moukden, and much we wondered at its stone -form of concrete and its top of bronze, a crescent and ball!</p> - -<p>Around the unique buildings of the consulate extends the plain, by -turns dusty or muddy, according to the season.</p> - -<p>Our delight was the moonlight on the consulate! The court so imposing, -with its grotesque animals and its Chinese queerness! The rare old -Chinese windows and at evening time, the watchman “beating the fish,” -sounding a rattle to warn away all intruders!</p> - -<p>The especial beauty of a real oriental house and furnishings; this one, -set in the heart of China, has as delightful a flavor as one may meet.</p> - -<p>The tombs of the Emperors of the Manchu dynasty, the men rather, who -founded the reigning house, are of fitting elaborateness. They too, -like the palaces of Seoul, are falling to decay.</p> - -<p>The one I went to see on a chilly autumn afternoon, was set in a park -of considerable dimensions guarded by the ever faithful stone dogs. -These faithful animals have kept<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</span> the palaces intact and the sleepers -in their tombs for centuries!</p> - -<p>We watched the old stern-faced tho not unkindly woods-men cutting the -winter fodder in the over-grown grounds. They work while the emperors -sleep and how much more impressive they are!</p> - -<p>A huge gate as usual meets us at the entrance to the enclosure; indeed, -two gates.</p> - -<p>The tomb itself or rather the shrine before the tomb is approached by -two stately avenues, where the dogs are relieved of their lonely watch -by two horses, two dromedaries and two elephants!</p> - -<p>In a pagoda we saw the mammoth sea horse and on his back the memorial -tablet written in characters none but a scholar’s spectacles could -decipher!</p> - -<p>The gate with its marvelous locks, certainly antedating Pharoah, opens -and we gaze at its ornaments of dragons’ heads, a sort of mask, as we -enter, to the central court, where we look up at the walls and mount -them to get the view and see the four corner towers of brilliant -workmanship and colors.</p> - -<p>Descending, we approach the central shrine by steps of very fine -sculpture and artistic form and are told by our retinue of attendants -that curiosity can go no farther nor veneration for that matter, as the -key is lost!</p> - -<p>The grave itself is beyond all this stone and wood arabesque; it is -without the wall, a simple heap, or mound of earth!</p> - -<p>“Dust to dust,” after all, poor old Manchurian warrior of long ago!</p> - -<p>But as it is autumn in the park, we gathered the red<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</span> berries and the -men ornamented the jinrickshas with them and we ride home across the -plain in a glory of red that out lasts all. The sun is a perfect disk -magnified by the perspective of the plain into a gigantic size, worthy -of Manchuria, and there is the Japanese flag! May it bring better days -to this land of toil and patience! That is the heart’s wish for this -colossal country of Manchuria!</p> - -<p>Over the mountains sky high, over the plains of Moukden, over more -mountains, and you approach the city of Dalny. There seems a stupendous -realization of Nature in it all, the scene is perfect. Dalny, to use a -histrionic term again, is the “curtain raiser” of Port Arthur.</p> - -<p>The war cloud seems still hovering over it. If you are accustomed to -the birthplaces of national significance you feel it in the air. The -place has a somber air. Built to be a pillar of Russia’s all conquering -power, it was to pass in a few years in an awful avalanche of -disaster to another!</p> - -<p>Across these streets men fought their way and others fled in terror!</p> - -<p>There are places where nothing would astonish you. No miracle but would -seem possible, because a miracle has been. Such a place is Dalny. There -are spots of our earth sanctified by the sublimest emotions possible -to our human nature, above this mortal passing of days: such is Dalny! -Such is Port Arthur!</p> - -<p>At Waterloo, at the Plains of Marathon, on the battle fields where all -our race rose in an hour to another epoch of its stupendous destiny, -what can be said! What is not felt!</p> - -<p>At the entrance of these streets you feel it is other ground, you tread -softly for immortal valor is there before you. You<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</span> have thoughts of -pride; a pride that wells as a gushing stream, to your heart. Yea, here -men were conquerors, not over a mortal foe, but over Death and Self. -The deadly enemies of men!</p> - -<p>When there has been said this word to fate, “you cannot rob me,” then -all the hearts of men leap to that height and we are for a moment -deified. O glory to the heroes of that hour.</p> - -<p>Russians or Japanese! All were in that sublime sense conquerors! All -shall be forever victors, enshrined in our memory, where we worship the -undying splendor of the soul!</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001b"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Decorative image"> -</span></p> - - -<h3>MOONLIGHT OVER MOUKDEN</h3> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: -5em;">Moon of harvests and of toil she slowly mounts the aged Chinese Sky,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -5em;">A sky of fairness, alabaster, ivory, like an antique shrine</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -3em;">Of ancient lineage and proud, her charm mingled of the mellow mystery of joy and tears;</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -3em;">In glory young, though old in years.</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: -5em;">Glories indeed have been, an emperor sleeps within a tomb</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -5em;">Forgotten with the sigh, men breathed in his domain,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -3em;">Nature and life rebuilt from death to radiant dreams,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -3em;">Who notes the Past, as tolls the silver chime new hours?</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -3em;">Night speaks and light still streams;</span><br> -<br> -<span style="margin-left: -5em;">Around her future like her rays, is mystery,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -3em;">But as days die, new days begin, of history far mightier:</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -3em;">Great light appears across Time’s pageant, lighting to grander victory;</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: -3em;">Victory deathless as moonbeams, and Love builds temples through all glooms.</span><br> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MANCHURIA">MANCHURIA</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_i.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">“In</span> the increased enthusiasm of Japan in her ardent effort to -strengthen her position in the world, by basing her international -conduct upon the fairest and best tried principles of human progress, -the effort is not free from occasional errors, but the large issue -grows clear in Japan’s mind.”</p> - -<p>The force of such words as these in <abbr title="mister"><abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr></abbr> Asakawa’s book “Russo-Japanese -Conflict,” I feel as a traveller over four thousand miles of railroad -controlled by Japan, from Yokohama to Port Arthur. If Japan is the -country of loveliness par excellence, and Korea ranking with Greece and -Montenegro, in the dramatic and picturesque, Manchuria is the majestic -climax to both! Antoken, two days ride from Seoul, is the drop curtain -painted in strokes of impressionism, as wonderful an introduction as -the heart could wish to the farther grandeur of Asia. The Yalu has vast -perspectives in its reaches into the heart of the land and moves one as -do all great rivers, as the Neva, the Thames, commercially stupendous, -as well as wide and deep. It seems a colossal boundary separating Korea -from China, but in this respect it fails of its purpose since Japan has -crossed it! The conflict which began near the gates of Pyongyang grows -here more intense in retrospect and you see, still much as they were -used, the sand bags and the remains of the fortifications. Sitting in -a box car, with about twenty Japanese and Manchurians, we watched the -unfolding of the landscape of China at our leisure.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</span> Here for the first -time in our four years of the Orient we saw the horse doing his proper -work as we see him in Europe and America. They were drawing the heavy -vans as at home laden with harvest.</p> - -<p>Antoken is a wild, unkempt town sprawling out in many directions, and -is being revolutionized by hard labor, as fast as toil, oriental toil, -can revolutionize it. The gaunt crags, the excavated cliffs, make it -stern in aspect and rather alarm one as to what may lie beyond. The -road seems a toy, but your admiration increases with the square of -the distance, as you wind on into the first “divide” on the edge of -precipices and over chasms for five hours of each day, through scenery -only the passes of the Alps or the Rockies can equal, and although -I have travelled through both, I think in certain aspects this trip -rivals either. The gauge is to be widened in two years and the distance -shortened. I was the guest on my return of the engineer in his private -car, so I had the pleasure of admiring the fruit of his brain with -the man who had conceived it. At the little mountain station where we -passed the night and which is provided with a good Japanese hotel, I -was told that here will be the centre of a health resort, and of course -the game is all any sportsman can desire. At this station we met a -French engineer, on his return to Paris from Tonkin, and his wit and -interest in all he saw did much to enliven the stay. His grey hairs -had not dimmed his delight in the superb panoramas of Nature, and -his enthusiasm was added to our own. These heights covered with the -rich hues of autumn are in fine contrast to the treeless, improvident -mountains of Korea!</p> - -<p>I have regretted not being able to accept an invitation<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</span> to visit -the American mines in Korea, but as it meant a trip in an ox cart I -felt with Manchuria before me I had all I could have the heroism for. -These mountains of Manchuria are supposed to be unfit for mining. The -first farmyards in our home sense begin, soon out of Antoken, with the -picturesque confusion of the autumn fruits. The soft greens of the -intervals remind us of the country outside of Paris in spring. The cows -and pigs are everywhere and in spite of the swineherds, who reminded -us of our Spanish reading and the story of the “Prodigal Son” most -vividly, they do get in the way of the slowly moving train. One little -black fellow had his last race and fell, as so much rustic valor has -before him, before the wheels we call progress, or Juggernaut according -to our mood. One old swineherd in tatters came to the car door. Never -off the stage have I seen a character so like the quaint creations of -Shakespeare’s dramas. We made him happier with a few persimmons and a -few coins, realizing from his extra crimson nose, that he was indeed -in “a far country.” Now we were as the days wore on climbing ridges, -now descending into abysses, every moment full of awe and of pleasure. -Along one of the slopes I saw a letter carrier with just that easy -lope he has on Broadway: so far gone that humanizes the letter! Caves, -caverns, stupendous effects at every turn, on we climb. The mists on -the heights in early morning are most exquisite. We pass military posts -and one where there are rich coal mines. Being the only European on the -train, and a woman, we are the “chief animal of the show.” We afford -great amusement to the sightseers of Manchuria. Huge woods, men cutting -logs, or at their arduous toil, it is<span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</span> all reciprocated and we part the -best of friends, the sturdy mountaineers and the woman, strange indeed. -They are, in their uncouth way, chivalrous, and as chivalry is dying -out in every country we may yet have to seek it alone in Manchuria!</p> - -<p>At one stopping place, I was attracted by a shrine, of which you see -so many, and as we had an hour’s wait, went to investigate. I fell in -with the native kindness and was asked in with the greatest show of -hospitality to see the interior. It was of course a farm house! How -bare! There was the raised platform where, as in Russia, the family -slept. All was blackened with smoke and all, including the family, -needed a lot of water to bring them to the original color, but the -children were very bright under their coat of dirt and very graceful, -in a way far more attractive than most civilized mannikins. The advent -of a foreigner made an event in the village annals and we soon had -quite an audience of the neighbors. It took us back again to days -of the One who went about doing good. I did not see a church spire -from Antoken to Dalny; am told that there are Catholic missions and a -cathedral in Moukden. The villages are all inclosed in mud walls and -are compact and occasionally one sees a temple much the worse for the -“tooth of time.”</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001c"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Decorative image"> -</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="SEOUL">SEOUL</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_i2.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">If</span> you should fall asleep over a volume of the “Arabian Nights” as I -have done many times in childhood and should awaken in Seoul, you would -not find the transition in the least startling.</p> - -<p>There is no city which could better fit in its glowing pages. Its -coloring is as fantastic as are the episodes of the “thousand and -one nights,” and to be accurate when therein describing its manifold -glories, as I saw them, is to me impossible.</p> - -<p>The editor of one of the very spicy journals which keep the Japanese -busy asked me to give my impressions and when I did, said they were far -and away too poetical and too imaginative for a daily paper, but they -did not approach the reality; not by half!</p> - -<p>There are two railway stations in Seoul and they are modern and very -brisk in their air as we whirled into the second one late at night -after a day’s ride in this wonderland of amber and gold mountains. I -was too sleepy to do aught but fall into the comfortable bed of the -“Astor House,” one of the best kept hotels in the Orient if you refer -to the cuisine.</p> - -<p>The next morning I awoke to find myself up under the shadow of a huge -Chinese wall and beyond were fascinating towers and spires and distant -flag poles of consulates and not many hours were lost before we took -a Sunday morning stroll uphill and thru gigantic gates flashing with -mural paintings of dragons and wild impressionistic<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</span> colors and weird -symbolism, and found ourselves in front of a Russian church where the -bells were ringing. We entered to the strains of that Slavic harmony -which allures as no other and there we found blond priests, with long -hair, worn in the same way as in the old Greek paintings and the -profile of the angelic Northern saint type; it was a strange paradox -to be in this chapel which represented a power now a removed obstacle -to Japanese dominion, and see its worshipers calmly allowed to go on -singing as of old. “One day they will come singing back again,” said -a bright young American observer. All Korea has two influences very -marked in its civilization, Arabic and Chinese, and a still more unique -aspect of a Grecian tradition. It is all three and Indian above all -three!</p> - -<p>There is something of the wild free stride of all mountain peoples in -their walk as you watch them in their flowing white robes and pot hats -along the highroads and there is a wild glance in the eyes of the men -not fierce, but the glance of some gentle animal untamed. The women, as -all know, are the household drudges and are completely under the thumb -of the male element, having neither name nor station apart from these -very self-important masters.</p> - -<p>They are kept in rich houses quite as in Turkey and they wear a silk -mantle over their faces when in the street. You can see their large -wondering furtive eyes looking out as you pass from station to station, -where the dapper Japanese officials keep them in check.</p> - -<p>They wear the most delicious shoes in the world, these same shy -sisters; they are Turkish and turned up slightly at the toes and are -silk besides, and very dainty in shade.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</span> The upper class wear this -flowing garment and the mantle of white silk in the street and the -middle class the green mantle.</p> - -<p>The poorest class, as is so often the case, gives the most picturesque -tone to the city streets and we have had our breath quite taken away by -meeting some woman, whose fancy ran a riot of color which would have -eclipsed Turner himself!</p> - -<p>I was invited to an evening entertainment at one of the hospitals, -where the girls were in their house costume, and it consists of a -bolero jacket and baggy trowsers, or divided skirt, it appeared to be. -Many of the girls were pretty and as animated as one could wish. A -debate was held and for diplomatic reasons I will not give the subject, -but it was as full of fire as a Greek patriot’s and carried on amid the -roars of laughter a school girl’s performance usually meets with.</p> - -<p>One of the faces of the nurses was so beautiful and so pathetic I could -not help remarking on its sublimity and my chief hostess told me a -little of its tragedy.</p> - -<p>The face was minus a nose, which a jealous husband in a moment of -frenzy cut off.</p> - -<p>The woman is a christian and the meek glory of her face will remain one -of the memories of a lifetime.</p> - -<p>No Madonna I ever saw in Europe equals it for sweetness.</p> - -<p>Another inmate of this hospital, so admirably bringing medical aid and -training to Korean women, was a little girl without arms or legs, but -still smiling and happy!</p> - -<p>All the world has heard of the great wave of Christianity which swept -over Korea in these last years and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</span> glory of it belongs to the -rare, very rare men and women, who are there; men and women talented in -letters as in religious devotion and their fame is great, such as <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> -James Gale and others.</p> - -<p>But oh, the streets of Seoul! Wander up on the citadel and gaze from -its ramparts down on the palace gardens, the new palace where you can -of a morning see the Emperor ride forth to visit his mother’s tomb or -go to meet a distinguished guest as we saw him the morning the Crown -Prince of Japan came, when the brilliant city was decorated with the -magic talent of those past masters of scenic effect, the Japanese.</p> - -<p>By one of the arches we saw the most unique spectacle as the Emperor -and suite and the two young princes side by side swept on in that -silent awe of Oriental homage, so unlike our own.</p> - -<p>We saw Togo and Ito and the others who have made the most brilliant -history of modern times, Togo laughing like a school boy, at all the -parade, which without him would never have been. We wondered if thru -his modest head any such thoughts passed!</p> - -<p>Flags of Korea and Japan were in every possible nook and corner and -arches of pine so solid in their construction that they did not look -paltry beside the superb wall, which girts the whole city and with -true Chinese irony runs up the hills and towards the sky and where the -wondrous Korean mountains stand bare, bleak and awful.</p> - -<p>Koreans have cut all timber from their peaks and left them like their -kingdom exposed from shiftlessness, a prey: now Japan is to make them -again, to wave with Nature’s fairest plumes the giants of the forest.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</span></p> - -<p>These gaunt rocks made, however, a truly majestic and fantastic -background to the oriental brilliancy of the streets with their rows on -rows of open shops, full of tempting wares such as we cannot often find.</p> - -<p>You can buy in Seoul furniture that is a marvel of luxury and -usefulness and the mother of pearl inlaid ornaments and the wonderful -brass decorated articles are almost an enthrallment. The American -Consulate in Seoul is as rich in its interior beauty of decoration, -as in its hospitality. Its mistress is one of the most lovely women -of our land, or of any land. There we met the forceful Englishwoman -who had tutored the Crown Prince, until he left for Japan; a charming -personality whose reminiscences would fill volumes of delightful -romance, as she has been in the “inner circle” for years and that, -indeed, in a country as full of brilliant scenes and of thrilling -events as a drama of the most Victor Hugan sort.</p> - -<p>You can buy amber and silk and the wonder of Eastern fabrication and -you can exhaust your prose and your purse and your vocabulary over it -both, in admiration and exasperation.</p> - -<p>Seoul is in part modern, that is, a little modern, and it has a street -car line very much like we used to have in Manila in the good old days -“before de war.”</p> - -<p>I always took it with the thrilling sense of not knowing where I was -to land and indeed, altho Seoul looks easy to the traveler, you can -get lost as quickly as in Boston. I was lost several times, but found -myself again just where I started.</p> - -<p>After dark the streets are lighted with huge Chinese lanterns and small -Korean lanterns which are carried in the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</span> hands and you can follow your -neighbor, as you do very gratefully, home this way.</p> - -<p>Seoul has a new boulevard since the Japanese occupation and the streets -are, oh, marvel of marvels, being cleaned!</p> - -<p>Koreans would never have thought of that in all their years of -philosophical wandering into the unseen, where they like so much to go!</p> - -<p>My trip to Seoul proved to be of more importance than I anticipated, -as I had a hole in one of the principal streets filled up, to my great -astonishment, again proving that “where there is a will there is a -way.” It had threatened for some time to break many hundreds of legs, -which passed that way every hour of the day and Stygian night!</p> - -<p>Seoul lies in a cup of gigantic hills and it must be not a little like -Jerusalem, in situation a “joy of the whole earth.” It has superb -moonlight nights and radiant days and it is as majestic and dreamy and -sad and glorious as a Greek tragedy.</p> - -<p>If you go into the parks of the two ancient palaces and wander for -hours and hear the birds sing and watch the tall fading on castle walls -and the glory that was Seoul and the grandeur that was Korea and watch -thru the trees, arches and bridges of lovely shape and the pagodas -richly tinted, where rested the lovely forms of long ago and see the -art and the dead, forgotten beauty of an age when beauty was enough, -when an emperor sued within those bowers and the days were long and -careless and the great lotus flowers now on their stems, as then lulled -to sleep all of man’s longings, why you will have to literally tear -yourself away, not to want to drop to sleep never to wake<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</span> up, as you -did over the book which told it all, how they lived and dreamed and -loved and hated in—Seoul, yes, so long ago when there was a king who -had a son beautiful and good and a daughter as fair as the moon, you -remember!</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="JAPANESE_IN_KOREA">JAPANESE IN KOREA</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_t.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">The</span> question of the relations between the Koreans and the Japanese in -Korea is a delicate one—one which requires an insight into past causes -and present issues somewhat beyond that of a casual observer.</p> - -<p>It is a question which finds its parallel in the relations of the -Filipinos to the Americans in the Philippine Islands. Taking into -consideration some of the minor differences, it is strikingly the same.</p> - -<p>Unwillingly, by the fortunes of war, both these helpless people, people -loving very little the “strenuous life” and enjoying ease with little, -far more than much without it, are being forced to arouse themselves -to action along new paths into a complex existence to which their -child-like and primitive needs do not call them. They are both more -given to reflection than action, and to theory rather than practice. -The same pride of those who take refuge in dreams is found in both, -but in the case of the Korean it is even harder to obliterate the past -tendencies, as they are not anxious to change even when at slight -cost to themselves. But here we must make a second observation,—that -along the normal and intellectual paths they do desire improvement. -They will sacrifice much to educate their children, and will go to any -privation to get an education. For example, the nurses in training in -the Seoul hospital, the “Po Ku Nyo Koan,” take six years of study and -pay for tuition, and do it gladly and with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</span> enthusiasm to obtain their -diplomas. I saw several of these young ladies who would do credit to -Johns Hopkins, so noble and self-poised did they appear. But stubborn -they most surely are, and refractory to those new forms of life which -mean other customs and other laws. The missionaries find them open to -spiritual truth and tractable to the practice of it in their lives.</p> - -<p>Both essentially Oriental and gentle when left to themselves, the -Filipino and the Korean become sullen, and even fierce when forced -against their will.</p> - -<p>Both Americans and Spaniards, as a Spanish gentleman said to me, become -heady and inflated with their own importance as soon as they “round -Corregidor.” The least desirable traits come into focus when vulgar -people are in the foreground. The Japanese have suffered somewhat by -crossing the Tsushima Straits. Insolence and a swagger of “we are the -people” we fancied we had left behind us in the “Pearl of the Orient,” -and which is slowly passing away, however, is recognizable at a glance -in Korea. A jinrikisha man, who seems to be a “thorn in the flesh” of -Yokohama, becomes a festering sore in Korea; he runs over unwary men -and women without a grimace, and bullies the rider into double fare -with the air of a bandit.</p> - -<p>The meddling “in other men’s business,” conspicuous also where -ignorance and lawlessness come into play, as in the Philippines and -Korea, is also characteristic. There is no bound to the impertinence of -those who feel like the bad boy of the nursery that the governess will -never dare tell, for she would get the worst of it if she did. Fair -play is not conspicuous in Korea, nor always in the Philippines.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</span> Great -complaint is made by foreigners in Korea as to the wholesale disregard -of property rights, the absolute impossibility of getting justice -before the law. Fortunately the parallel stops here; we have Filipino -judges who enjoy nothing better than sending an American up for a long -term! I hope the time is not far distant when a Korean judge can enjoy -the same ironical pleasure. Of course the greatest difficulty lies in -this adjusting of ignorance to another ignorance in the lower classes, -the ignorance of both being absolutely impenetrable. The educated -Japanese recognize this and acknowledge their inability to cope with it -at times. Occasionally this takes a tragic aspect, as when in working -on the telegraph wires in the streets of Seoul they warned to no -purpose over and over again a poor Korean, to whom electricity and its -deadly power was as unknown a quantity as a Sanskrit root to a London -fishwife, and at last they hit him a blow, and he fell—dead!</p> - -<p>But force is always the weapon of men who have power over others and -none over themselves, whether in Bombay, Manila or Seoul. But that the -patience of English and American and Japanese is often tried to the -uttermost is also true, doubtless. “Patience conquers all things”; this -saying of Saint Theresa is needed by them all; and by the Filipino and -Korean, above all. In conversation with foreigners, with Japanese and -with Koreans, you feel this absolutely.</p> - -<p>A Korean boy said to me pitifully, “Oh, they do not understand,” and a -very astute and able man of prominence in finance in Seoul, a Japanese, -acknowledged the same difficulty of harmonizing such divergent -elements,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</span> meaning exactly what the boy could not express. Some of the -foreigners are strongly influenced by their hearts in favor of the -Koreans, citing incidents of their ill-treatment by the coolies and the -merchants. Others, relying on their heads, say, “No, Japan is doing as -well as under the circumstances is possible with a delicate, obstinate, -inflexible people, who do not wish to develop in the modern sense.” As -to the Japanese soldiers and their behavior, I heard only praise, which -is certainly, considering the opportunity they have to be otherwise, -admirable.</p> - -<p>The Korean has by no means the courtesy towards strangers of the -Japanese, but it is said that once you show yourself their friend they -go further in their cordiality and are far more unselfish in their -devotion.</p> - -<p>The less attractive qualities of the Koreans have been greatly -overdrawn. They are kindly and attractive, the women especially so, -even winsome, graceful, and possessing that dignity and poise, partly -characteristic of the British Indian and partly of the Mohammedan. They -are sticklers for tradition and punctilious in etiquette, and like -such people usually are rather more anxious for the “letter” than the -“spirit.” Sensitive to the feelings of a stranger as the Japanese are, -they certainly are not. The prosperity of Korea is tempting to the -avaricious Japanese, and they have been guilty of such transactions as -are some of the monopolies of America, crushing to the wall the less -clever. It is an old story; Japan can show England and America nothing -new in greed. We have exhausted the repertoire!</p> - -<p>Seoul is one of the most enchanting cities in the world; its situation -is marvelous, its picturesqueness only Constantinople<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</span> can rival.</p> - -<p>Korea is a land of stupendous beauty and attractiveness, the kingdom of -toil, and it is to this they are looking. To the onward marching lines -of men who see the future, Korea and Manchuria are the stepping stones. -The wide fields extend in every direction, the hills “rejoice on every -side.” Japan marches her soldiers at every station, law and order go -with her, and out of chaos, Asiatic chaos, she will bring—who that -sees her at work can doubt—civilization in the modern sense.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001d"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Decorative image"> -</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TOKYO_AND_ITS_MAYOR">TOKYO AND ITS MAYOR</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_o.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">One</span> of the most interesting experiences of my stay in Japan was my -visit to the parliament, where I was privileged to have as a guide the -mayor of Tokyo, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ozaki, a man who has had a seat in that body every -year since it has had its existence.</p> - -<p>The buildings are not in the least imposing. They show the same -paradoxical simplicity which we find in so much of this most stately -people’s ways.</p> - -<p>Over the president’s desk hang eight portraits in oil and on a raised -platform under them a group of distinguished workingmen, whom I took to -be in part officials and visitors.</p> - -<p>Our seat in the diplomatic gallery was directly opposite that of the -president, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Sugita, a most distinguished appearing man who looked -not a little like our late John Hay. The vice president, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Minsura, -sat by the president’s side, a serious man of sedate face.</p> - -<p>The chief secretary is <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Hayashida.</p> - -<p>It was a most curious thing to look about the room and to contrast -the individualities with those scenes we had watched in Congress, the -German reichstag, and in Paris in the senate chamber.</p> - -<p>Mayor Ozaki has the distinction of being one of the three best -speakers in the parliament, and his rare penetration, wide travel, -and far-seeing intellect, as well as his wide knowledge of affairs in -a practical sense, furnish<span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</span> him splendid equipment in sustaining the -oratorical eminence he has gained. The speakers on this afternoon were -many and, judging from the rapid firing from the seats and the frequent -laughter, they were both witty and well directed. The members showed -every age from grey hair to the trim dapper young thirty with its -brocade waist coat. Every style of Japanese dress of old feudal days, -which is a most dignified and becoming garment, to the latest work of -the European tailor, was in evidence.</p> - -<p>The voices were for the most part the well-bred modulated ones of the -upper class Japanese, but some were impassioned and some were silvery -and persuasive.</p> - -<p>In front of the president’s desk stand the different members expressing -their views in as many fashions as there are men. Groups of men stood -about laughing and talking as is usual at such places and in the -lobbies there was the usual passing and doubtless buttonholing. On -every hand might be seen deep eyes of astute glance and the still -deeper eyes of a far-seeing statesmanship.</p> - -<p>The sitting lasted till four, and in times of eager debate when much -is at stake, they sometimes do not rise till nine p.m. This making -of laws is a noble profession, but it has its humdrum side as do all -professions, and men seek to escape from this tedious side in different -ways characteristic of themselves.</p> - -<p>There is a restaurant on the ground, indeed, two of them, and we dined -at one with his excellency and listened to the brilliant conversation -which he added as a sauce to the food. Very appetizing food, by the way!</p> - -<p>In <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ozaki, Tokyo has a very unique mayor, a man with as many sided -an existence as his city! “Self made,”<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</span> as he proudly said, he has been -a public man all his life and yet likes the quiet of his country life -and the family quite as much as the most humble man of the city. A -great reader of men and of events, he is a democrat to the backbone and -has a manner simple as a child and a mind as keen as one of the damioes -swords. He was once exiled from his city as a dangerous character, “for -I am always in the opposition,” he laughingly said, “always a fighter,” -and then he told us of the first three positions he held, from which -he resigned in one, two and three months respectively. He has a dash -of dare devil still, this excessively quiet, self-contained man, but -years, years how they take the fight out of the bravest! We learned -from him of the great undertakings which he as mayor has in view: the -building of a harbor for Tokyo, the new sewerage, the 10,000,000 yens -to invest for the coming exposition and the other things with figures -of something like one hundred million yens. It reminded us of hearing -President Harper talk of laying out <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Rockefeller’s millions. Such a -juggler in figures he seemed.</p> - -<p>The Ginza has been widened and one of the finest systems of water works -in the world just terminated. This alone would make the administration -famous. Tokyo elects her mayor every six years, and this mayor has -served five only to begin to learn he claims, the duties of his office.</p> - -<p>Mayor Ozaki in his younger days was a journalist and he has an able -pen. The municipality has in its care a very interesting “Alms House,” -of which we may write later. It is, with other of her institutions, a -most creditable one.</p> - -<p>Japan has the quick eye that sees and puts the right man<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</span> in the right -place, and certainly the choice of this man was admirable for the city.</p> - -<p>Tokyo is now expecting to buy the electric roads and make out of them -something with which to carry on these gigantic schemes of improvement.</p> - -<p>The city of Tokyo is in the hands of fifteen aldermen, a council over -which the mayor is president, in addition to which is a legislative -body of sixty members, elected by the citizens. The right to vote is -the qualification of the tax payer and is in fact universal suffrage. -This makes the city more an independent or free institution than the -country, as the right to sit in parliament is only received from votes -held by property owners.</p> - -<p>The mayor is elected by the municipal assembly; there is no ceremony in -the inauguration of mayor, not even a practical oath. All the members -of the assembly must be citizens of Tokyo, but the mayor need not be. -When he is elected mayor, the right of citizenship is conferred upon -him.</p> - -<p>All the electric car system which is now in the hands of one company, -is soon to be owned by the city. It is at this present time being -considered by the Diet. The city in this way hopes to meet the enormous -expenses which are confronting it in the way of harbor improvement, -street widening and new sewerage, all of which will cost something like -100,000,000 yen. The new water works are almost completed. The water -comes from the river Fama, about fifty or sixty miles out of the city, -and is a masterly piece of engineering. It will provide Tokyo with a -water system second to none. Of it the present mayor is justly proud.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</span></p> - -<p>Tokyo is increasing in population at about the same rate as Chicago, -that is, about 100,000 per year. Labor troubles have not as yet become -a serious thing in Tokyo, but the prescient gaze of the administration -foresees that the day is not far distant when they may become so. The -municipality was only established about ten years ago and was before -that under the rule of a governor. The office of governor is still a -relic of the feudal times and the Governor still has some prerogatives -which remain from the ancient and somewhat archaic institution.</p> - -<p>The preparation for the coming Exposition is the most serious thing -before the city now. There has been appropriated about 10,000,000 yen.</p> - -<p>“After the Exposition we hope to have the Aoyama Parade ground as a -permanent park, and the construction for this gigantic affair involves -the closest attention from now on,” said His Excellency. A huge -building is projected, which will become permanent and will adorn Shiba -park. The model which we saw is very imposing indeed, and is the work -of the city engineer. It is rather of Roman style of architecture and -is massive and admirably proportioned.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001e"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Decorative image"> -</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="JAPANESE_RAILWAYS">JAPANESE RAILWAYS</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_d.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case"><abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr></span> Hirai, Director of the Government Railway Bureau, graduated in -the Van Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute just after the exhibition in -Philadelphia in 1878, and on graduating was employed in the Mississippi -River Commission by the United States Government, and did not return to -Japan till 1882.</p> - -<p>His pioneer railway service was in the Hokkaido, on the line which was -built by Col. J. U. Crawford, an American, and run on purely American -plans and methods. It has changed since, as after <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Hirai left the -engineer introduced English customs, but retained the American cars.</p> - -<p>“In my day,” said <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Hirai, “the New York Central and the Pennsylvania -were the leading roads in America. I hope to see myself what thirty -years have brought about, on my trip to that country next year. I had -intended visiting Europe and America during the war time, but was -prevented on that account from travelling. On my return I shall have -seen and investigated modern railroading as it actually is in America -and Europe. What I shall see will naturally bring benefit to my system.”</p> - -<p>“What do you think of American railroad men, <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Hirai?” we asked.</p> - -<p>“I think they are the greatest men that you have in any line. We are -working at this moment for the amalgamation of seventeen private -railroads and are reducing them to the same standard of rates, fares, -and working staff. Our railroad system is just a little over 45,000 -miles, which<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</span> does not show very large, but its significance is in -the fact that it includes all the main lines of this Empire and is -therefore important. It includes the lines in the Hokkaido, Kyushiu, -all of the main island, and Shikoku, one third of which belonged before -to the Government, the rest having been acquired since 1906-07. The -method by which these seventeen railroads have been acquired is based -on the calculation that the stockholders will receive Government bonds -bearing interest at the rate of 5 per cent., equal to the average -of the dividend they have been receiving during the three years -previous to the time of nationalization. When the railroad has been -paying less on the capital than that, the amount of the bonds to be -paid for the railroad is to be agreed upon between the Government, -and the representatives of the stockholders. The whole amount of -bonds to be issued for nationalization will be nearly Y450,000,000, -or Y500,000,000, which we calculate will be paid off, interest and -principal, in 60 years. The actual result since acquiring the railways -is better than had been anticipated. Rates for goods and fares for -passengers have been reduced to a single standard. The reduction on -some lines has been more than 30 per cent., but still on the whole -our receipts are about 10 per cent. on fares and 20 per cent. on -freight more than the receipts of the previous year. The results -are, therefore, most gratifying. The total receipts for the fiscal -year ending the 31st of March this year will, I think, approximate -Y70,000,000; the net receipts are about 32 to 35 millions. The actual -net receipts for nine months to the end of last December are a little -over Y28,000,000. This is a showing which speaks for itself.</p> - -<p>“The most marked results of nationalization of our railroads<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</span> is seen -in the Hokkaido, where the best part of the railway was under the -control of the Hokkaido Colliery and Railway Company. Naturally this -company transported their coal in preference to all other freight, and -the development of paper mills and other manufactures was slow. Since -the Government has taken over the railway, no preference is given to -any particular freight, and in consequence the development of other -industries is facilitated.</p> - -<p>“The steel works at Wakamatsu are supplying the army and navy, so we -are short of materials from this source, but we obtain the greater -part of our rails from them. We are building our cars in our own shops -and in three private shops, but we import our locomotives from foreign -countries, and you see English, German and American locomotives on our -road. The most economical engines so far in use we find to be English. -We hope to introduce greater ease and luxury in our cars every year. We -are now exporting wood for ties and sleepers to America. Our first aim -is for cheap and quick transportation of goods. Heretofore our receipts -have been mostly from passengers, over 70 per cent., but of late we -are giving more facilities to freight. We expect to build a central -station in Tokyo, beginning the work this year, and Shimbashi will be -like an old horse which in pride has once drawn his master’s carriage, -but is later relegated to a dray, for it will be used for goods alone. -We expect to connect the elevated line we are building now to Uyeno and -Ochanomidzu. The plan of the new central station is already complete. -It will be located in Marunouchi and will be a thoroughly modern -station costing about Y2,000,000. It will be completed in time for -the exposition, and we expect to have a station hotel in connection -with<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</span> it, after the plan of the Canadian Pacific hotels. But, when -it is all finished, we shall have, like the man in the scripture, to -pull down and build bigger, so fast does the tide and onward sweep of -modern life outreach even the large projects of man’s brain. We have -something like 70,000 employes, a good standing army, and our Society -for the relief of the injured and disabled has on its list 50,000 -members; this provides for medical treatment and care for those laid -aside in any way. It is a society in which the railroad and the men -co-operate. The men pay in every month 3 per cent. of their wages, -and the government 2 per cent., so that 5 per cent. of the income of -all wages is appropriated for this relief fund. The officers of the -road get a pension after 15 years’ service amounting to one quarter of -their salary. We have to supply the staff of the Korean, Manchurian and -Formosan times, who are men trained with us.</p> - -<p>“During the war we sent 15,000 men to work the military lines in -Manchuria and Korea. A Railway School is situated near Uyeno Station -in Tokyo, where the course is preliminary. After graduation the men -come to us and work up. For high grades we employ university graduates -or those from high commercial schools. The most urgent work we have -on hand in the coming year is the extension of station facilities, -doubling of tracks, extension of repairing shops for the existing -lines, for which we have an estimate of eight millions for the coming -year. In the line of new construction, we have an estimate of about 25 -millions yearly extending over twelve years, which will add about two -thousand miles to our railway when completed.”</p> - -<p><abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Hirai speaks the English of a generation gone, with the clear -cut pronunciation of another age when men and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</span> women had time to do -things well, and as he speaks English, so he stands at the head of -one of the great railroads of the world, with the gentle suavity and -calm reflective face of a scholar, not a man of affairs, with a serene -self-possession which is the unmistakable mark of genius combined with -self-mastery. He is more like the great <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Charcot than any man I ever -met, and I remembered on coming home that in <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Charcot’s Paris house -was placed, in his vast library, a statue of Buddha.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001f"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Decorative image"> -</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MADAME_SHIMODA">MADAME SHIMODA</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_m.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">Madame</span> Shimoda is one of those rare beings, who have the singular -fortune to have not only fame, but what is far more to be coveted, a -place, in the hearts of thousands of her countrymen and women.</p> - -<p>Hardly any one in Tokyo, who reads at all, but could guide you to the -little wooden house, on the hill, one of a million homes of her city, -where this virile and delicate woman lives, surrounded by the care of -relatives and friends, who it is easy to see give her, not only care, -but love.</p> - -<p>Born in a feudal castle in the picturesque country of the Japan -mountain region, with the country spirit still in her, which the life -for many years in the palace of Tokyo could not destroy, that spirit -you feel in the touch of her diminutive hand, in the glance of her -powerful eyes, where dwells unquenched the freshness of free spaces.</p> - -<p>Before she was twenty she was a reader to Her Majesty the Empress and -began the severe training of court etiquette, with its demands, more -than those of a soldier for self-control, yet even after years of such -experience and the still more severe drill as a teacher of young ladies -she has as charming a naturalness as a girl, so great is the gift of -the “kind old Nurse” Nature.</p> - -<p>These men and women of Japan, who have crossed the half century line, -are all of them, more or less, the inheritors of the chivalry of -the ages gone by, and of all those ideas which Japan once held as -absolutely necessary to the making<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</span> of a lady or a gentleman.</p> - -<p>They tell us with a soft resigned sigh, that those ideals are passing -away before the inroads of western civilization, and who can not regret -it?</p> - -<p>A volume of this little lady’s work with her round, generous -hand-writing, is one of my treasures, as she stands first among the -“singing birds” among the women of her land.</p> - -<p>Her tastes are as varied as her life, with always that passionate love -of nature in the foreground.</p> - -<p>The heroic, as is natural in a Japanese woman, comes next, and the late -war comes often into the short simple lines, where self-poise is again -so marked.</p> - -<p>Her fondness for youth and the sentiments of youth come into play on -every other page.</p> - -<p>I had spent a number of hours in the school which is her greatest -monument, the “Peeress school,” where the daughters of the nobility -are educated, and found there a duplicate of a first class European -institution, from the kindergarten to the graduating class.</p> - -<p>I had listened to the eloquence of the teachers as they spoke of the -French Revolution, and watched the faces of the English class, as they -went over the ever imperial verses of Tennyson.</p> - -<p>In those pretty, demure eyes, there was just the passion for the “good, -the true and beautiful,” which all fine youth has, the same we know so -well, before the Dawn has left them.</p> - -<p>We passed a group in the hall and there was the daughter of the -greatest admiral of modern times, Miss Togo!</p> - -<p>We saw them in the cooking school and heard their bursts<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</span> of laughter -as they made the interesting and doubtless indigestible dishes they -were soon to partake of.</p> - -<p>From the Auditorium to the garden, where the children play and make -those queer shapes and forms in the sand which latter are enlarged in -the vaster designs of manhood and womanhood, we found everywhere the -mark of this woman, her care and her genius.</p> - -<p>On one Sunday, we were invited to her house, and a very bright Yokohama -girl, who spoke Japanese fluently, was our enthusiastic companion to -the home of the first teacher and first poetess of the land.</p> - -<p>I was amused as we sat and she talked for an hour in the quiet soft -toned parlor of the higher education of the women of her land, to see -how her glance would wander from my pencil to the face of the young -girl, and of how she would interrupt her most serious remarks of -history, which she has at her finger tips, of philosophy, bred in her -bones, of the highest ethics of life, when she would cast one of those -bewitching smiles on the girl as she pressed her to take more sweets. -Life is ever the master passion of all such souls and they live only -in to-day. Higher education is not new, but like all great movements, -this of Japan began long, long ago, and once women held the place of -almost the equal of their lords, but the strange story of reaction -and retrogression, which marks the advance of the East, came in to -disfigure the wonderful march of the thought life of women.</p> - -<p>Madame Shimoda is a pioneer in her work, and to-day thousands of modern -Japanese women rise up to call her blessed.</p> - -<p>She was left a widow after a very brief married life and<span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</span> then all her -pent up love and devotion went out to her sex.</p> - -<p>She has travelled extensively in Europe and America, and with that -master power that all Japanese seem to have, she has taken much of the -good, and left the bad of the West.</p> - -<p>The great need of physical culture for the future mothers of Japan was -what appealed to her most strongly and this has been the first note in -her educational scheme.</p> - -<p>We had sought for the motto which gives the keynote to the social life -of a Japanese home, and in the house of Viscount Kaneko we had found it -to be: “Wealth and rank are but a fleeting show, the merit is the man.” -Here it was, as we might have known: “Duty First.”</p> - -<p>What would one expect of a woman who had spent her middle life in -educating the upper classes of her people, that she would want to -rest? Oh, no! for the remaining years she is to devote herself just as -earnestly to the educating of middle and lower class Japanese women.</p> - -<p>This frail but purposeful woman had fire in her eyes as she spoke of -the future, a future which to such as she must only mean vaster and -vaster horizons and more radiant conquests.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001g"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Decorative image"> -</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="PEERESS_SCHOOL">PEERESS’ SCHOOL</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_i2.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">If</span> you walk from Hibiya Park between two imposing public buildings, up -the broad avenue to the top of the hill, you will come to the high wall -which encloses the Peeress’ School, with the court, a fine entrance -space, with porter’s lodge and a porte cochere of Gothic arches, and -the whole a good bit of English architecture, with wide door and a -lofty hall. Opposite you as you enter is the refectory, with its low -tables and the plain and substantial effect of age and use. Two pretty -portresses will meet you at the door, with their eyes full of fun, as -all boarding-school maids have, as they are the secret ambassadors of -much mischief and are initiates of that occult society of fun. Their -demure manners, assumed for the occasion, do not blind you to their -roguery, for you have been a boarding-school girl long ago.</p> - -<p>The instructor in English is as courteous as a guide as he is clever -in the use of your mother tongue, and you begin with a keen relish the -tour of inspection.</p> - -<p>The reception room is rather like the meeting room of a committee, -for which purpose it is doubtless often used. Here the wise heads are -doubtless laid together and those plans for the education of Japan’s -future wives and mothers laid. Out of this room leads the Empress’ -reception room, with the heavy damask curtains, the high ceilings and -the empty walls where, on the two yearly visits, the gracious and -“first woman of the land” receives the homage<span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</span> of the director and his -staff and gives in return the interest of all true women, be they high -or low, in the education and welfare of their sex.</p> - -<p>The school has three terms,—one week’s vacation in April, and more -than two months in summer, and a short vacation at the New Year. About -the end of October is the exhibition in physical exercises, and about -the end of March that awe-inspiring epoch of graduation, when the high -functionaries of State and the distinguished clientele of Tokyo come to -see their girls step out of the schoolroom into the school of life—a -moment mingled in every land and school with gaiety and pathos.</p> - -<p>The children enter the kindergarten at the end of the toddling age, and -the little lads and lassies sit side by side in their delightful rooms -and make their first songs of life, as they end them, together, their -little arms and hands making the first efforts at rhythm together, -awkward movements full of grace. They pass at eight years to the -primary department and begin the toilsome upward pull of real study, -and here their ways part,—the boys for the Peers’ School and the -ruder ways of masculine effort. From the primary course they enter at -about the age of fourteen the “middle course,” and that is in grade -substantially our High School. From this they can take post-graduate -courses in special studies, such as the classics, music and other -branches. The branches are technical departments, music, needlework and -embroidery, and a thorough course in cooking. Of the painting we will -speak later.</p> - -<p>The Literary department must include courses in advanced Japanese -classics and English and French literature. The Science department -comprises a small laboratory, not<span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</span> overstocked with apparatus, and a -good class-room for experiments. This department has few devotees, as -might be expected, and also mathematics, and there is “little Latin and -less Greek” in the regular curriculum.</p> - -<p>These sparkling-eyed young damsels take mostly to the gentler arts and -the gentler paths of learning. Our first visit was to the painting -department, as was fitting in a land which is above all things an -amateur of art. Here some ten young girls were painting on silk the -flowers and butterflies so dear to the Japanese heart. They were -fifth-year students and were very clever. The first year’s work hung -about on the walls. We looked for still-life subjects and casts, and -were told we would find them later, as we did, and some good work -in oil, and were told that animals and more ambitious subjects were -attempted by these embryo Rosa Bonheurs. The work was about on a level -technically, without being as original, as similar work of the same age -at home.</p> - -<p>The gong struck for the end of a forty-five minutes’ period as we -left these rooms and the girls rushed out to the playground with all -the excitement of such times at home. The playground is much too -small. It had a tennis court where the girls were striking wildly at -a tethered ball, an amusement they seemed much to enjoy. There is -a fine gymnasium with the omnipresent piano, and here the marching -and physical exercises are practised. The kindergarten department -playground has piles of sand for the little folks, and they begin their -engineering and their landscape gardening in the bright sunshine there. -In the halls we saw two ping-pong tables, and certainly the physical -side of the young ladies’ training is not neglected.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</span> The auditorium -is spacious, and here are held the overflow recitations occasionally. -We saw a class in ethics file in, their faces alive with youth and -happiness, a charming ethical picture! As we were passing one door a -group of these eager beings emerged, and our guide informed us that the -tall young lady was Admiral Togo’s daughter.</p> - -<p>Four hours a week are given to foreign languages, and French or -English may be selected. German is not taught to the girls. We were -particularly entertained in the history class. The young ladies were -as intent as their master, who told them in impassioned language -of that impassioned epoch of the French revolution. “Danton and -Robespierre,” how strange those names sounded so far away, mingled with -the hurrying voice of the speaker! The revenge of the years on evil, -how far-reaching! In the English class we heard some very creditable -rendering of English verse by the girls, and the charm of Tennyson’s -“Idylls of the King” lost nothing on those pretty lips. The Knight -Sir Lancelot and the maid Elaine and all their chivalric woes and -their exquisite love story was dainty enough in its new setting. We -saw the cooking class at work and the little maids frying fish and -preparing the lunch that was to be served at the long table in the -airy dining-room which opens into the garden. For myself I was willing -to try the cooking, however indigestible, after seeing the cooks. The -teacher was an old Japanese gentleman who was as cool, apparently, with -these too many “cooks spoiling the broth” as a young chef would not be, -patience being the supreme qualification for a cook, as for a Cabinet -Minister.</p> - -<p>We found the kindergarten department, after all, the most alluring, for -the rooms here were more attractive and the<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</span> little pupils passingly -dear. They sang so sweetly and played so charmingly in the wee garden -and came running about us with all the abandonment of childhood and the -laughter of fairies that we were captives to education at once.</p> - -<p>If we could have one of those baby companions as a seat mate we would -be willing to go over the whole course again, beset with the terrors of -examinations and failure marks as it was.</p> - -<p>The teachers of the Peeress’ School are specialists and have received -the training of many lands. We had a cosy chat in the director’s study, -and he amusingly informed us in very idiomatic English as a beginning -“that as he had arrived only a day before us he did not know much more -than we about the school.” This admission was certainly promising of -great good to the school, as wisdom is not hasty in its judgments, nor -rash in its methods.</p> - -<p>Looking into that face which bears the beauty of refinement and culture -to an eminent degree, as well as that soul light, without which all -education is vain and all teachers worse than vain, we felt that in -the hands of a man associated for more than twenty years with the -education of the youth of Japan, <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Gentaro Matsumoto, the future of -the Peeress’ School might be even brighter than its past.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001h"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Decorative image"> -</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="KANEKO">KANEKO</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_t.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">The</span> subject of this chapter is one of the forces,—which unobtrusively -and unostentatiously is not only felt in Japan, but in the world. He -is a world man. In order to pass into this category of world men, a -great deal is required, and process is always of intense interest to -humanity,—which from the lowest to the highest is aspiring to be felt.</p> - -<p>Chosen to represent in the Great Exposition the country of which -his proudest boast is to be a son, he combines those distinguished -attainments, which a long past of services well rendered have given in -turn, and is not only a fine example of Modern Japan at its present -moment of leadership, but is also a man of the world,—moulded by the -best scholarship of the last century, and while working to-day in the -formation and perfecting of his own government, his thought has the -catholicity of a statesman and embraces the interests of every land as -well.</p> - -<p>Born at an epoch when his country was just awakening to the modern -struggle,—born out of the provincial life, which is always the best -preparation for city life, because it is more serious, more profound, -and more far-reaching in its thought than that of a metropolis, as -it is more introspective; he came as a very young man to be the -adopted foster son of our great republic, and with singular Oriental -astuteness, read into its pages of history and life, its secrets -of growth and progress, as well as its defects and limitations; he -rose through all the grades of a city<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</span> public school, that unrivaled -training for life, entered our proudest university, the synonym of -culture, of the humanities of that aristocracy of thought which -separates and differentiates men, far more than lineage,—and came out -of it to mingle in the affairs of men, a democrat, progressive, man of -action, incorporating in his ideals and work the best influences of the -past, but an ardent lover of the future, a believer in better days and -things, a belief which he has kept to this hour.</p> - -<p>Kentaro Kaneko was born in Fukuoka, Chikuzen, Western Japan,—noted for -its chivalry, its warriors, and also for its learning. Its Daimyo was -Marquis Kurada, one of the greatest nobles of the land, the grandfather -of the present Vice-President of the House, and this man took a special -interest in Viscount Kaneko, and it was through his influence that as -a boy he was sent to Tokyo to study, and later to Boston, where he -began his education in the Boston public schools. From these schools be -entered Harvard Law School and graduated, returning to his own country -after eight years, and was soon appointed by Prince Ito Secretary of -the State Council, and was in the next year appointed private secretary -to Prime Minister Ito, and launched on the arduous labors of making the -draft of Japan’s future Constitution.</p> - -<p>He was married to the present Viscountess, the daughter of a governor -of one of the Japanese provinces, and they have two daughters and a -son. Viscountess Kaneko is exceptional in her graceful hospitality, -a lover of home, and although she does not speak foreign languages, -is said to be a brilliant conversationalist in her own, and is a real -helpmate to her husband in his intellectual and social life,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</span> devoted -to children and to entertaining, she has won enthusiastic appreciation -from her guests by her tact and kindness. She is interested in all the -best modernism.</p> - -<p>In a recent resume of his life, we gather these details:</p> - -<p>“In 1890 he was elected as a member of the Institute of International -Law and in 1892 attended its general meeting held in Switzerland. At -the meetings, he advocated reforming the Treaties then in force between -Japan and foreign powers and for abolishing extraterritoriality in -Japan, and after much argument and pleading, he at last succeeded in -getting the Institute to pass the resolution. In 1894 he was appointed -the Vice Minister of Agriculture and Commerce; in 1898 became the -Minister of Agriculture and Commerce in the Ito Ministry, and then -resigned the portfolio together with Prime Minister Ito. In 1899 he -went over to the United States, accepting an invitation from Harvard -University, where the honorary title of Doctor of Laws was conferred on -him. He was the first Japanese that received the title, and the reason -for conferring this singular honor upon him was announced by President -Eliot at the Commencement as follows:</p> - -<p>“Kentaro Kaneko, Harvard Bachelor of Laws, formerly Chief Secretary of -the Imperial House of Peers in Japan, and Vice-Minister and Minister of -Agriculture and Commerce, Life member of this House of Peers, the type -of those scholars of two Hemispheres through whom West would welcome -East to share in the inheritance of Hebrew religion, Greek Art, Roman -Law and Nineteenth Century Science.”</p> - -<p>In 1900, he was created a Baron in recognition of his service. Before -this time, he had organized with Prince Ito a political association -named Seiyu-Kwai and was appointed<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</span> a member of the managing committee. -When the Ito Cabinet was formed in 1900 he was appointed to the -portfolio of the Minister of Justice. The next year, when the Ito -Ministry resigned, he retired to a quiet life for a while. In 1904 on -the declaration of war with Russia, the Viscount was ordered to proceed -to the United States on a special mission and remained there for one -year and a half. During that time he devoted himself to promote the -best interests of his country and scarcely had a day’s rest, so that he -was looked upon as uncommissioned ambassador; and it is said when the -negotiation for peace was commenced at Portsmouth, he labored hard to -secure a successful result, and had several interviews with President -Roosevelt. In 1906 he was appointed a Privy Councillor and for his -service during the war, decorated with the First Order of Merit and -the Grand Cordon of the Rising Sun. In 1907, when the Order for the -Organization of the Bureau of the Grand Exhibition of Japan, to be -opened in 1912, was promulgated, he received the Imperial Order to be -the Director of the Exhibition with all the offices and rank already -conferred upon that function. In September, 1907, he was a Viscount for -his service rendered for the cause of his country.</p> - -<p>In one of our interviews with this man, whose souvenirs cover such -an interesting period, we asked him for reminiscences, which he -kindly gave in the genial and unstudied manner characteristic of his -conversation.</p> - -<p>“My souvenirs of England? Every day I used to go and sit in the house -and listen to the debates in which Gladstone and his illustrious -colleagues took part, this was in 1890, and I learned the usages from -Sir Reginald Palgrave, who was the clerk of the house, the brother -of the famous<span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</span> Prof. Palgrave of Oxford. My friendship with Herbert -Spencer was a connecting link from America, for I took a letter from -<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> John Fish to him, and sending him my card, we met the following -day by his invitation. At once we talked on the constitutional -government of Japan and I showed him the English translation of the -Constitution and we discussed questions of morality and religion. He -was particularly interested in Japanese history, and evidently my -explanation cleared many points he could not get right before. His face -glowed with excitement. He jumped up, having an engagement at half past -four, and he took me in his carriage and drove me to my hotel on his -way to the “Atheneum Club.” We talked all the way and he said ‘I shall -propose you as an honorary member of the Atheneum Club,’ and I was -informed a week later that I was elected a member. Frequently afterward -we dined there together, and on my return to Japan we corresponded. -Herbert Spencer had great interest in the Orient and in collecting from -there his materials for his social studies. Another friend was Lord -Coolidge, Chief Justice of England. He used to entertain a great deal -in his London house and there I met the celebrities. Sir Francis and -Lady Jeune entertained me during the London season, and I visited with -them in their country place in Newberry, meeting all the society of the -day, Lord Knutsford and others. Gladstone impressed me as one of the -greatest men in intellectuality, learning and the force of conviction; -at that time he was out of office.</p> - -<p>“In 1892 I revisited London, and arrived the very day Lord Salisbury -went out and Gladstone’s cabinet came in. Among its members <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> James -Brace was my particular friend. I<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</span> met him often in London and in the -United States in 1904, when he was invited to give lectures to the -Alumni at Harvard.</p> - -<p>“When in England I met many Oxford and Cambridge men. What impressed me -as admirable in England was the English quiet, contented life. In Japan -politically we are aristocratic, but in all the social relations we -are democratic. The wife educates our servants to be really interested -in their duties. We, the Japanese, are not very rich, we do not count -the men by their money, but by their worth; any man is admitted to -the best society who is worthy of it. Japan is the most deceptive -country externally; you scarcely meet a single lady, or gentleman -in the street, so you do not meet them on the cars or the parks. A -Japanese lady sends for her goods to the house, a promiscuous crowd -alone meets you so that you rarely come in contact with the well-bred -people of the country. So it is also the undesirable people who go to -America, oftentimes either in misfortune financially through the fault -of others, he is preparing himself by an industrious life in a foreign -country, and often he is trying to retrieve his life or that of his -family. Hotel boys and servants come back and take useful places here, -the better for their experience.</p> - -<p>“Among the great men who moulded my ideals in America, I wanted to -study the religious institutions and influence in the United States, -so I went to all the churches while in Boston, Roman Catholic, -Congregational, Swedenborgian, Episcopalian, Baptist, and Parker’s -Memorial, and met all classes of preachers, theologians, and ethical -teachers. I was in public school in Boston in 1872, when the public -school was at its best. That gave me the strong force to come back into -the battle of life, and from the mingling with negroes<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</span> and emigrants, -I learned life. I knew Longfellow and Holmes and spent two summers -with him at Beverly Farm. Robert C. Winthrop was also my friend, and -was also a great help to me. Through his kindness, Judge Holmes gave -me more material to cultivate my mind perhaps than any other American. -President Eliot was of course an inspiration and two of my pleasantest -memories are visits to James G. Blaine at Bar Harbor and President -Cleveland at “Gray Gables”.”</p> - -<p>In closing, as the sun was setting over Tokio and filling the vast -salle of the Exposition Administration offices with twilight, the -delicate and earnest face of the speaker flashed now with humor, now -with seriousness and pathos as he spoke of the present relation of -Japan and America, serious it is, when loose tongues speak of that most -awful thing,—war. “We try to weigh the past, present and future, and -we are sure that soon the temporary strain will be relieved,” said the -earnest voice,—“ever since the restoration in 1868 America has been -our friend and we remember it; it has been a friendship cemented with -our growth.”</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001i"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Decorative image"> -</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="EXPOSITION_NOTES">EXPOSITION NOTES</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_a.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">A</span> jinriksha ride through the picturesque streets of Tokyo about two -to two and a half miles from Shimbashi Station brings you to the -Aoyama Parade ground, which, with the Imperial Park forms the site of -the Exposition of 1912. From corners of the grounds and a temporary -station, trains will leave for and come from all parts of the Empire. -This place, now perfectly bare, will show the result of Japanese genius -and invention in a short time. On one side is the park of the Crown -Prince’s palace, and at another corner is a military university, which -will be removed. The ground here is high and the air very fresh and -invigorating, as it is in an open part of the city, and it will remain -a permanent park after the Exposition. The work on the ground begins -early in 1908.</p> - -<p>Tokyo alone is most interesting in its street sights; the children at -their games, a baby asleep in the shop, a lovely vision, two old people -weighed down with their burdens, pilgrims in quaint garb, the boys and -girls returning from school with knapsacks full of books, arms over -each others’ shoulders, bright-eyed girls out for amusement or to pay -visits, the big milk carts and street vendors, the portable kitchens, -around which some are taking an evening meal, the flower wagons, the -horses with their bright accoutrements, the strange calls, the pathetic -blind beggars, all mingle in the city’s drama! The road from the -parade ground is lined with parks and villas, passing we see many gay<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</span> -singing children. We go through the deeper lanes and hedges to the park -which we enter by an avenue of truly imperial trees, pine trees, and -groves also of maples and shrubs, 120 acres, rented from the Imperial -household, paths of delightful vistas, mystery and woods full of charm, -a sylvan paradise, hilly, rolling, full of possibilities of gardening, -near Tokyo Bay.</p> - -<p><abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Fukuichi, the chief engineer of Japan, is the Chairman of the -Committee for the buildings and is now engaged on the plans. The -gardening and electricity, each best authority, has been appointed. -<abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Fuwa is the Director of the Imperial Horticultural department and -is the chairman of the Committee on Gardening. The buildings will be -unique,—five departments, education, science, electricity, manufactory.</p> - -<p>The Governments of the world have been requested to build in the style -of their own country. Viscount Kaneko emphasizes that every nation -should incorporate its own architecture in the structures. “We hope,” -thus he says, “that our ideas of architecture will be revolutionized.” -There will be large hotels constructed in different cities of Japan -and many new ones in Tokyo, as the houses already here are by no means -adequate.</p> - -<p>“The International Exposition,” said Viscount Kaneko, “as far as I have -seen in Europe and America, have been too large in extent and scope, so -that as a rule it is too great for any one to grasp as the exhibits are -over-full, and might be described as ‘too much of a muchness.’ Neither -the eyes nor the ears can take in the magnitude, so you are dumb and -numb, and you come out overawed by the detail. The extent and magnitude -have defeated often their object:<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</span> too much paltry stuff, and show and -display, not realizing the educational purpose, have become rather a -sight-seeing scheme.</p> - -<p>“This was said of Paris and of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Louis, and I have heard from -different sources, commissioners, executives, both European and -American, express this feeling, and so at this juncture of world’s -fairs, I think the organizers are thinking to lessen the extent and -magnitude and thereby to make the exposition compact, systematic, and -effective.</p> - -<p>“I believe that in the future the world’s fairs will be lessened in -size and in indiscriminate exhibits. That is my idea, which I hope -to incorporate in the coming exposition. We mean to emphasize to the -world that in the grandeur of the buildings we cannot compete with -Europe and America, and also Japan cannot show anything of electricity, -manufacturing or machinery, and we cannot give any lesson to the world -either, in going ahead of other nations in the ensemble;—we hardly -hope to show much of overwhelming value on any line to the world, as -it is the first International Exhibition in the Orient. Consequently -we expect to make the Asiatic exhibit the special point; we want to -exhibit all the products of Asia and the Indian Archipelago, the -Philippines, Sumatra, Borneo, Java, Australia, New Zealand, and -Formosa, and so we will have the first Asiatic expression of commerce -on so large a scale, showing unity of language, racial features, -religion and customs, for we can collect from all those peoples and -realize a unifying of the Oriental Nations, and enlighten the world as -to the Oriental essence, thought, ideals,—past and future. This is our -aim.</p> - -<p>“Next, we expect to make Tokyo the centre from Tokyo then, expanding -in the radii of Nikko and Sendai in the north,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</span> and in the south -Nagoya, Nara, and Kyoto, and farther down south Shimonoseki and the -Island of Kyushu, and thus the whole country will be thrown open to -the people as an exhibition ground. All the temples will be open to -the western visitors, and every corner and every mountain and all the -scenery will form a part of the Exposition grounds, and thus we expect -to show to the Western peoples the manners, customs and life of the -Japanese, and show them also, not only in public, but at home. Thus -also by interchange of ideas between the Japanese and Western nations, -they will come to a better understanding of each other for mutual -benefit, so many misunderstandings between the East and the West may be -corrected and also it will bring about a “rapprochement” of sympathy -and interest, and in this manner we will contribute something to the -world’s commerce, diplomacy and civilization. These are the general -lines along which we shall move and we expect to organize.</p> - -<p>“We wish the exposition also to serve in statecraft. Formerly the -Sovereigns and Ministers negotiated the diplomacy of a nation in secret -conclaves, but within the last fifty years this has been changed. Now -the people hold the power. If we can bring a better understanding -between the Orient and Occident by the means of a friendly rivalry of -an Exposition, the ends of civilization will be met and progress will -be served.</p> - -<p>“Japan is considered the leading artistic nation of the Orient, but -the nations of the world have not seen Japanese art arranged in -order. Now we expect to have an exposition of Japanese ancient art, -arranged chronologically, and also according to schools, covering a -period of 1,500 years, after the introduction of Indian religion and -Chinese<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</span> philosophy into Japan. This period will be divided into eight -periods of Japanese artistic history, and each period will show the -characteristic arts of painting, bronze and pottery, and lacquer, and -so forth, and will show characteristic ideas and instincts of the -Japanese people. Thus the whole history of Japanese art will be brought -down to the modern age.</p> - -<p>“These are only a few details of the forthcoming Exposition which will, -we trust, bring the East and West into greater unity.”</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001j"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Decorative image"> -</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="BARON_TAKAHASHI">BARON TAKAHASHI</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_i2.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">In</span> the two great branches of state craft, diplomacy and finance, it is -interesting to see the interchange of qualities and the intellectual -dominance of each is usually thought to be most marked, still there -have been men of rare human qualities, who were financiers and -diplomats as well.</p> - -<p>Baron Takahashi unquestionably belongs to this class who weave, as -do certain scientists, a romance of facts or more justly speaking -comprehend the intense humanness of dollars and cents.</p> - -<p>Five times he has crossed the ocean to visit America on commercial -missions and brought back a fund of observation, as well as more -material baggage. He has put his finger on the pulse of Wall street and -discovered some of the causes of its fitful and erratic pulsations, and -has even after bearing the tremendous financial burden of a country -in its hour of extreme need come out with the vigor and the magnetic -vitality of a man of the future, not of the past.</p> - -<p>We thought of Necker at once and the cheerful Latin optimism seemed in -the speaker and in his person.</p> - -<p>“Japan has not yet recovered as we know from the late war, and she -requires foreign capital, we must look to the world’s markets for it. -Unfortunately for us we must wait for our loans until the affairs of -other countries are on a better basis or rather in a less fluctuating -condition than they are to-day. I believe that if men of capital will -continue<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</span> to invest in my country, it will be to their advantage and I -am also desirous for the mutual good of both, that these investments be -as safe as possible and in this I have been and will be an intermediary.</p> - -<p>“From the standpoint of investors England and Germany are -unquestionably the safest and surest markets to-day. Financial security -always goes with freedom, the United States has such serious abuses of -power that freedom becomes disturbed and so as by a paradox tyranny -often reigns.</p> - -<p>“The continual warfare between labor and capital gives rise to -uneasiness and disturbs the market, as does the lax social conditions -the sequel of the indiscriminate immigration and it has the seeds of -revolt against established rule.</p> - -<p>“Something must be done with the banking system in America and -there must be reforms also in the monetary system. The peculiar -centralization of the gold in Washington and so in an event of crisis -the intervention coming wholly from there, is not advantageous. A -central banking system as in Germany should be established. The -amassing of great fortunes is not however as many suppose an evil, -money is never idle except unspent in the pocket of the poor man! The -rich man puts it at once to use. Turning to Japan we see some very -hopeful signs and some serious drawbacks. Foremost among the things -which promise most, are the sugar plantations of Formosa. If in a few -years she furnishes us with most all the sugar we need as we expect -and Korea with her vast territory as yet waiting for energy and for -intellect to develop can give us cotton, we shall find these great -items in our imports changed to sources of income and in the near -future<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</span> a trade balance in our favor. This cotton of Korea is of far -more value to us than her gold mines. One of the major drawbacks in -Japan commercially is the want of co-operation among small manufacturers -and work men handicrafts.</p> - -<p>“We feel this primarily in the exports to China. Take the case of -Manchuria. The Chinese are very observing and they can tell the -difference between our work and German work at once and they prefer to -use the German although they must pay more for it.</p> - -<p>“The cause of this is often that a poor manufacturer is many times -compelled to over-produce under great pressure and turns out half-done -work, even when he knows it means no more orders.</p> - -<p>“Local authorities are trying to urge combinations among manufacturers, -but so far have met with little success.</p> - -<p>“This isolated working purely for self interest is undoubtedly the root -of what is called Japanese commercial dishonesty.</p> - -<p>“To France we must turn to-day to see the supreme example of thrift and -industry and reciprocity of helpfulness. Japan unfortunately does not -yet give us as hopeful a picture of economy.”</p> - -<p>Laughingly assuring Baron Takahashi that we had a personal sympathy -with the people who could not save, he answered playfully that we must -all acknowledge the wisdom of providing for old age and children, and -with that very human and humane observation our interview was closed. -We felt the man spoke rather than the financier.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TOKYO_OBSERVATORY">TOKYO OBSERVATORY</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_i2.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">If</span> you look at an astronomical map of stations of observation, you will -see what looks to be a meteoric shower of dots on Europe, where there -are one hundred and thirty observatories, sixty-five in North America, -six in India, six also in Australia, two in the West Indies, three on -the coast of China, and following the line of sea and shore northward -in a vast region of watery waste only two lone spots which are the -two Japanese observatories. Their importance to science is therefore -obvious. Though situated on a height which seems to crown the city of -Tokyo with the picturesque foliage of Hibiya Park, where the lungs and -the mind expand, we are surprised to be told that for star gazers, -there is not enough space. The observatory is soon to be moved; so bad -are the atmospheric conditions and it is all but impossible to obtain -good results in astronomical photography. In spite of this draw-back -some very successful work on the Milky Way has been obtained by Prof. -S. Hirayama, still as the enthusiastic young assistant says who has -just returned from two years at the Yerkes observatory at Williams bay, -Wisconsin, it is very unsatisfactory.</p> - -<p>The work just now of the Observatory is the observation of variable -stars, and the study of the deviation of verticals for which the -observers must go out into the country to other heights. The chief work -of the staff is along the line of time service, variation of latitude, -solar observations, though the most important work is possibly on the -Milky Way. The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</span> staff has been up to this time small, but there is -now a sufficient force to ensure greater results of a more searching -character. The present officers are:—Director, Prof. Terao; Professors -S. and K. Hirayama; Assistant Professors, Sotome, Midzuhara, and -Ichinoye.</p> - -<p>The Astronomical Society which has just been established intends to -popularize the study of astronomy, and they will have for this purpose, -a series of journals published in Japanese. For scholars there will be -also journals in English, German and French, giving an account of the -work done at the observatory as well as matters of universal interest -to astronomers. In eclipse trials many observations have been made; -some of the plates are most beautiful, one taken of the corona of the -sun by Prof. Hirayama was exquisite, this work was done at Padang, -Sumatra. The instruments are three equatorials, two meridian circles -and several smaller telescopes. Proudest of all is the institution of -their Reflers clock which, I believe, is the only one in the Orient. -The library is excellent, containing very many valuable works of -reference. <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Ichinoye, while at the Yerkes observatory, took special -work in spectroscopy and double stars and he speaks with enthusiasm -of Profs. Frost, Burnham and Bernard, who are among the leading -astronomers of the world in solar and stellar investigation.</p> - -<p>An account of the taking of the coronax of the Sun is given graphically -in the “Annal” of the Tokyo Observatory.</p> -<div class="blockquot"> -<p>We left Singapore on the 4th April on the steamer “Van Outhoorn” of the -Koninklijke Paketvaart-Maatschappij, and four days later we anchored in -Oleh-leh, at the extreme north of Sumatra island. During the rest of -the voyage the steamer remained within sight of land. Our destination,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</span> -Emmahaven, was reached at one o’clock in the afternoon of April 15th. -There we took the train for Padang, only twenty minutes’ journey. In -Padang I was able to select an abandoned shooting ground for archery on -the seashore near Damar Street, as a site for the observing station. -It was found afterwards that this site was too near the sea; when the -sea was rough it was impossible to make sextant observations with -artificial horizon on account of the periodical trembling of the -ground. But fortunately on the day of the eclipse the sea was extremely -calm, so that we could get sharp photographs. <abbr title="doctor">Dr.</abbr> Lau, a German -engineer, who had been resident for a long time in Padang, was most -helpful to us during the whole period of our stay. He provided for us -both labor and materials. On account of the excessive rain it was not -possible to commence the setting of our instruments until April 27th. -The principal instruments employed are as follows:—8-inch prismatic -camera, in charge of the writer; 5-inch coronagraph, in charge of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> -K. Hirayama; Vogel’s direct vision star-spectroscope in connection with -a 4-inch telescope, in charge of <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Sotome.</p> - -<p>Now for a few words about the weather conditions at this station during -my stay. Observations at Padang for several days after our arrival -showed that as a rule the mornings were quite clear, but about noon -the sky began to be overcast, and in the evenings it rained. Since the -totality was to occur about one o’clock in the afternoon, we were all -anxious about the visibility of the eclipse. But later observations -showed that the weather was greatly improving. Still there was not a -single day in which the sky was entirely free of clouds, such as I had -enjoyed during my stay in India to observe the total eclipse of 1898. -The<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</span> nights were specially bad, with either clouds or rain. Till the -time of the eclipse we had only a few clear nights, during which we -tried to photograph the spectrum of a bright star for focussing.</p> - -<p>The morning of the day before the eclipse was cloudy; it began to rain -in torrents in the afternoon and by night it had not improved at all, -promising nothing but rain for the next day. The morning of the 18th -of May dawned cloudy, but afterwards it began to improve. The clouds -broke in several places, and the clear sky gradually increased in -extent. Noon was the hour of totality. During totality, although the -sun was still covered with thin cirrus clouds, it was yet possible -to observe the corona through them. The entire programme was carried -through successfully, but with little hope of getting results of value. -All the astronomers stationed at or near Padang on the west coast of -Sumatra met the same fate. Fort de Kock was the only place where the -sky was perfectly clear, although it was pretty near the northern -margin of shadow, and the chance of clear weather was the poorest. Our -site was excellent for the observation of the moon’s shadow. Two or -three minutes before totality we saw the darkness approaching through -the air, on the sea to the N. W., and the shadow swept with great -rapidity towards us; at this moment totality commenced. We also noticed -that the light was approaching, from the same direction, just before -totality ended. In making the exposures I was assisted by <abbr title="mister">Mr.</abbr> Shakushu, -a Japanese priest at Singapore, who rendered most efficient service in -this way. After the eclipse the development of the plates was taken up. -Since the weather in camp was very hot in the daytime all the plates<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</span> -were developed at night, ice being used abundantly. The resulting -negatives were nearly all satisfactory, which was contrary of the first -expectation. Yet the effect of the clouds is clearly seen in the long -exposed plates of the 5-inch telescope.</p> -</div> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001x"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Decorative image"> -</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="GOVERNMENT_STEEL_FOUNDRY">GOVERNMENT STEEL FOUNDRY</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_g.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">General</span> Nakamura, the head of the Government Steel Foundry, when -interviewed in Tokyo, desired to express regret at the impression given -to the public that he advocates a high tariff on steel imported from -other countries, for the purpose of advancing the interests of the -institution which he represents, to the detriment of foreign producers -and to the exclusion of necessary importations from other countries. In -reply to questions he stated:—</p> - -<p>“I do not advocate the increase of the tariff, nor has the question -yet been considered by the Government. What I said was that, among -the causes of the hard position in which the foundry is placed is its -inability to compete with supplies from abroad. So far losses have been -sustained by the foundry, but without an endeavor to place the value of -the turn-out on a par with foreign imports, how long can this be done? -We are endeavoring to regulate this, and possibly a more radical, or -somewhat readjusted, protective policy may be beneficial.</p> - -<p>“There are, of course, other causes for the still undeveloped -manufacture of steel in Japan. The present output is insufficient -for the needs of the market. Only one-third of the supply needed is -made by the Government Steel Works, and even this one-third does not -include what is needed for the other branches of consumption, such as -machinery, hardware, etc. On the other hand, the demand for steel has -considerably increased from what it was before<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</span> the war, and has so -very much outstripped the supply as to be a cause of anxiety to me as -director of the works. The fluctuations in the price of steel, which -have been considerable, have also had a serious effect upon the market. -In the perfecting of the quality of the material itself, for the first -time this year it underwent the inspection of Lloyds, and it was -pronounced that the output was qualified as material for shipbuilding, -provided it passed examination. The Government Foundry has therefore -been registered at Lloyds.</p> - -<p>“There is, as stated, great opportunity for the development of -skilled labor among the operatives, and considering that iron work -is so difficult, the progress made is most gratifying. Most of our -instruction in steel manufacture has come from Germans, and most of -our officials are graduates of the Tokyo University who have studied -abroad. In the housing and care of the operatives some care is taken. -Rent is free, but the accommodation is not adequate to shelter the -9,000 employes. Secondly, there is a convenient supply of food at -low rates, a commissary, and in case of injury a relief fund, which -provides medicine and temporary wants, and, in the case of death, looks -after the widows and orphans. A society for this purpose has been -formed, and its interests are one of my chief concerns. The operatives -are recruited from Fukuoka prefecture and from other parts of Japan, -and while not feeling that the Japanese are particularly adapted -to this work, given the time and experience I am pleased with the -results. The average age of the operatives is thirty, and so we have -the advantage of youth and strength in our favor. The Chinese mine at -Taiyeh supplies one-half of the ore used<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</span> by us, and the rest of the -ore is brought from different parts of Japan. Owing to the condition of -transportation the price of iron is appreciably dearer than in America. -Beside the material supplied to our army and navy, the remainder -is sold on the open market and consumed in the usual manner in the -manufacture of utensils and implements of commerce. The machinery used -in our workshops is from Europe and America, wherever we find the best -and most up-to-date plant.</p> - -<p>“In conclusion I want to say that this question of duty is a serious -one—an exceedingly serious one—one which entirely rests with our -Government, and it is not my part to enter into the decision except to -present existing conditions. It is the purpose of the Government Steel -Works in time to supply the whole demand of the country. This is our -ambition, and that is why we are focusing our attention at this moment -upon the causes of our inadequate production and failure to make good -our initial programme.”</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001k"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Decorative image"> -</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="JAPAN_IN_NOVEMBER">JAPAN IN NOVEMBER</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_t.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">There</span> is no time when Nature is so approachable as in autumn. That -season is like the green room of the actress, when she lays aside her -stage attire and in deshabille she is communicative and you gain many a -secret into her methods and her ideals and aims!</p> - -<p>Her laughter is no longer art, but natural, and she shows her foibles -and her whims with a childish abandonment. Kamakura has in resume, the -exquisite traits of Japanese scenery. The dominating features of the -artistic and the diminutive and then the glimpse, just a glimpse of -the grand. The sublime is a note I have never heard touched in Japan, -except at Port Arthur.</p> - -<p>Kamakura has also the needed accessory of a landscape, i. e., historic -background. The center of ecclesiastical domination of Buddhism in the -middle ages, the spot where the miracle of Nichiren was performed, that -beautiful episode which is so often treated in art and which reminds us -of those famous martyr dramas dear to the heart of the Christian.</p> - -<p>Heaven has not always interceded to save the sainted, and how the heart -leaps, when we read of those rare moments, when it has. Nichiren, we -are told, was busy during the whole of his time in exile in “teaching, -preaching, and itinerating.”</p> - -<p>But like many a Christian saint he did not temper his zeal with -discretion and was rearrested.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</span></p> - -<p>The story is familiar to all, but it is beautiful, and like that of -Joan of Arc or Constantine or <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Martin and a host of others, will -bear repeating.</p> - -<p>“Kneeling down on the strand, the saintly bonze calmly uttered his -prayers and repeated ‘Namu mio ho ren ye kio’ upon his rosary. The -swordsman lifted his blade, but a light blinded his eyes, the sword was -broken and the saint was saved and afterward pardoned.”</p> - -<p>The surf was dashing in fine shape on the day we visited Kamakura and -the soft grey, like the color of a faded tapestry brought to our “inner -eye” the old saint and the huge blade broken, and the terror of the -evil men. Japan has this touch with the supernatural which raises her -in our esteem!</p> - -<p>The first glimpse of the Buddha set in the bower of maples was not -disappointing. Its vast proportions and its solemn repose fitted into -the coloring of red and yellow and the curtain of Nature softly hung -in folds of crimson and green, and a veil of mist harmonized the whole -into an etherial essence dear to the mystic. The Buddha of Kamakura -is the Prince of India, and those Hindoo lines of proud lineage, the -arch of the nose and lips and eyebrows, all tell the story of his -kingly degree. The hawk-like glance of the sovereigns of the kingdom of -princes, is of course subdued in the religionist, but I doubt if it is -extinct.</p> - -<p>The Buddha is after all a man and the gentleman and the boor still -show! We went once in Paris to the cloister where the women of the old -noblesse are immured and there in spite of almost inhuman rigidity of -demeanor caused by every crucifixion to mind and body “the goddess -was known in her walk” still. So difficult is it<span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</span> to warp and contort -Nature! So difficult and so futile!</p> - -<p>“Consider the lily how it grows” is an injunction that no churchman has -ever fathomed. Nor ever will! Only God did that!</p> - -<p>It is well that Buddha sits among the maples and the cherry blossoms, -for their wisdom may penetrate his bronze heart! The view from “Kwannon -temple” is a rare bit of Japan.</p> - -<p>There in the tea house we sat and drank it in, with the stimulating -beverage.</p> - -<p>The cliffs, the village, the ocean, the dainty colors, the aged aspect -of it all and the stir of new life, everything toned into an autumn -symphony, it only needed Chopin.</p> - -<p>But Chopin was far away and there is no music in Japan! How curious -that the fickle goddess left that out and set all the harmonies of -Nature in the heart of the Philippines! The “Hachiman shrine” is a bit -of Saint Marks, with its pigeons, and the avenue of ancient trees and -torii which leads up are good and far less distracting than the temple -approaches of the cities.</p> - -<p>Better than all was Nature’s sanctuary where all is harmony; where no -narrow sect nor vulgar stare, nor discourtesy disturbs your thought, -and where one can read the word of God uninterpreted by any narrow -priest, or any narrow passion, but in “Spirit and in Truth.”</p> - -<p>The colors defy all art to reproduce them, the declining year, the -memory of the rich hued summer, the pathos of something gone, the hush -of stream, the absence of bird notes, the quiet, the intimate quiet -of Nature, which is never oppressive, never aught but refreshing, and -which leaves no scar nor wound!</p> - -<p>The delicacy of the laying away the past and the hopefulness<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</span> of it -all! We would almost like too, to fade away into the ether, laying off -the coarse garment of the flesh and finding what Buddha and every sage -has sought!</p> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Some soft warm place in field, or wood,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The mother will be sure to keep,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Where we shall lay us down to sleep.”</span><br> -</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001l"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Decorative image"> -</span></p> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="SUNRISE_OVER_ASIA">SUNRISE OVER ASIA</h2> -</div> - - -<h3>I</h3> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Over the old worn world he came,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Flaunting his flames of red!</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The stern walls of Asia guarding the sky,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Waited in calm, as in years gone by,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Upward he came, breathless, we said—</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">“Can he scale this fortress, centuries strong?”</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">His answer ’twas written in cohorts high!</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">He triumphed, night fled,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The day was begun, and Asia, she of the long, long night</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Said, “Welcome, my son!”</span><br> -</p> - - -<h3>II</h3> - -<p class="poetry"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">So up rises the day on the days that are fled!</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And Asia’s sun glows a brilliant red,</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And the future resplendent of Asia will come—</span><br> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Come as this sun, a splendor of life on the days that are dead!</span><br> -</p> - -<p class="center"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;">South China Post</span><br> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</span></p> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="MANILA_AND_THE_PHILIPPINES">MANILA AND THE PHILIPPINES</h2> -</div> - - -<div> - <img class="drop-cap" src="images/dc_j.jpg" width="100" height="113" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="drop-cap"><span class="upper-case">Just</span> outside of Asia proper as in a proscenium box are these islands, -half mystic, half savage, like the kings who sent men out to conquer -the world, with sword in one hand and hostia in the other!</p> - -<p>No place on earth has had possibly a more romantic experience, full -as it has been, of the acts of primitive unchained manhood and the -infinitely worse aspects of human nature, the avarice, intrigue -political and ecclesiastical eccentricities of civilization. The whole -story is written in the annals of these verdant radiant slopes, not -all written yet! Then on pages brilliant as some illumined missal -is inscribed the devotion of the chivalrous sainthood of Spain. The -dramatic element is furnished by the Chinese invasions followed by the -British and our own and as you pass along these streets, the walls and -towers “cry out.”</p> - -<p>Just outside then of Hongkong, the “superb” the Genoa of the East, her -prows turned to every point of the compass, her flags the colors of -human statehood, of petty kingdoms and massive empires, the gateway -of Asia, the Asia of the North, destined like everything Northern to -outrank the South, in virility if not in subtility and charm, we of -the Philippines have a glance which takes in more than a piece of the -oriental horizon it embraces. The chiaro-oscuro after leaving the -islands at the end of a long sejour, when as at the close of life, the -colors seem to blend into one dominant tone, is a sort of soft grey, -enveloping the receding city,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</span> built so far away, at so much sacrifice; -over all the blemishes the cruelties and crudities of a society hardly -half formed, of a state hardly above the first foundations, one’s -feeling is wonder and pity, wonder that men and women have had the -courage to face it at all, pity for their heroic struggle against -ignorance and all the human brood of evils under a tropic sun, which -dries the blood in the veins and leaves the nerves tingling to every -breath and thought.</p> - -<p>But were this all, who would have the power to live out their story -here! In the phantasmagoria of this tropical nature there is something -ever new, ever fresh, ever upbuilding and upraising, the forces of this -universe of which we are a part. There is a measure in this Oriental -dawn, like the lines of Omar Khayyam, which swings in the rhythm of the -hours. Every day we feel we can, every day we do! Then in the embrace -of the transcendant peace of the Oriental night, we learn to watch and -wait, knowing we shall be soon with “Yesterday’s seven thousand years.”</p> - -<p>There is something in the atmosphere, a certain occult fluid, which -takes the place of ozone and strange as it may seem these sunburnt, -sunscorched lands have rushing over them the gales of ardor, of desire -to run the race of manhood worthily, every nerve taut, every tendon -stretched.</p> - -<p>“Time cannot change, nor fortune stale her infinite variety,” would -well describe Manila.</p> - -<p>Gathered from the four corners of the earth a motley crowd is -her citizen’s roll! Embryo politicians, incipient scholars and -philanthropists, altruists of curious conflicting lives and creeds, -every social curiosity in the gamut, from those who never saw a ship -until they reached San Francisco,<span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</span> who were once a cordon bleu and -are now posing as grande dames, (?) to those who have given up all the -beauty of some castle height in Spain, or some equally refined home in -America to spend their best of life and service as a tropical gift, -lavish and unstinted, without thought of return.</p> - -<p>We also find all the comical inconsistent forms of religionists of -every shade of narrowness and Pharisaism, at once gallant defenders -of their faith and guilty of inhuman barbarity to their fellows, -intriguing clothed with piety, just as in the old, old days, but where -is “the milk of human kindness” on the other hand sweeter to the -palate, sated as it must become with all else, where do you see lips -quiver more tenderly over a sorrow, or eyes light more divinely at -noble word, or deed!</p> - -<p>There is something intensely human, in our city, expressed by the -Spanish word “simpatica”! All the personalities are so well known, so -intimately and injudiciously discussed and so ineptly criticised and -then in a moment of abandonment, the praise is so real, the encomiums -worthy of an Attic sage!</p> - -<p>The heroes and favorites are after all well chosen in our city and her -gratitude outlasts many a more ambitious burg! There is heart in what -Manila does, often almost incoherent heart, but what is the rarest -science, the most ambitious churchism, to one drop of that pure wine of -goodness and enthusiasm, “pure and undefiled” like Him who went about -doing good?</p> - -<p>Slowly we are evolving a city from the middle ages to the present type -of town, full of modern action and our institutions are rising from a -substructure long prepared<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</span> by the past.</p> - -<p>Work along the humanities at the Catholic university of <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Tomas -and by the Jesuit Fathers, at their famous school, the “Ateneo,” has -prepared the way for a national university whose buildings are rising -and whose instruction has already commenced.</p> - -<p>The work of the nuns, Spanish and French and German, has been an -excellent training for Filipina mothers and their family life.</p> - -<p>They have formed whole generations of good women, whose grace and -true womanhood put to the blush most of the American, or European -importations, with their petty jealousies, their slanders and their -utter frivolity.</p> - -<p>Today the Filipina girl, like her sisters in every land, aspires to -greater learning and the way is being opened also for them.</p> - -<p>Still in bastion like walls within the walled city, whose ancient moat -and ramparts are the pride of our town, you can see as in a vision -of other more refined days, under cape of black, white and of soft -outline, faces glowing with a devotion to the highest ideals, not of -our time. They are like a rare vintage in crystal from the sunny slopes -of Spain, or France, uplifting all women at the sight and shaming the -ignoble types of today!</p> - -<p>Spain taught her children scanty science, if you will, but if we teach -these people one half the goodness she left in their souls, we may -congratulate ourselves, congratulation we are not likely to be worthy -of, unless there is a speedy change for the better.</p> - -<p>Our hospitals are several of them, of the latest equipment and directed -by the devotion of well instructed nurses.<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</span> <abbr title="saint">St.</abbr> Paul’s, under the -supervision of the catholics, though free to all in its beautiful -catholic spirit, is perhaps the most popular institution in the city. -French devotion has made it the delight of the sick and weary.</p> - -<p>Among new hospitals are the “University,” the “Civil” and the parent of -all “San Juan de Dios,” an ancient institution of splendid traditions.</p> - -<p>“San Lazaro” for infectious diseases will some day be one of the -foremost of its kind in the Orient. We need sadly a home for the -aged, as our over-crowded alms house is not up to date and we ought -to have other provision for our children. The “Looban convent” where -a most lovely charity is dispensed by a mother superior who radiates -goodness, with her choice spirits about her, needs more assistance and -sympathy. The “Mary Johnson” hospital is combining a training school -for nurses and the Municipal Board is encouraging in every way the -training of young woman in this most necessary branch of learning. The -sanitary conditions of the city are slowly being put on a par with -those of other cities. A new water system just opened brings the purest -of mountain liquids to our homes and down in the depths of earth a -drainage up to date is being laid. We need a first class hotel large -and combining the charms strangely little utilized, of our climate and -delightful nature. Our present hostelries are by no manner of means -to be as severely criticised as they are, as they afford quite a fair -degree of European comfort. Buildings for trade, commodious and lofty -and pretty private villas are going up in all parts of the city. Our -water front, an unsightly mass of made land, awaits the hand of the -architect to raise the state buildings, adorned with the symmetry<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</span> of -art to embellish our chief glory the wide, cool stretch of ground we -call “Luneta” where we hope to see soon the statue of Rizal, who is the -chief glory of the New National life!</p> - -<p>A trip through the Southern islands on one of the “Smith Bell” -steamers, affords entrancing pleasure and variety of experience, and -the summer capital of Baguio and hot springs and sylvan sights are -reached by the Manila and Dagupan Railway. We have a press which -has talent but is handicapped by a narrow and very false idea of -conservatism and there is a disposition to restrict its freedom, which -is a sign of weakness if not of culpability. Great states and great -people are not afraid of criticism nor even slander. Innocence is -subjected to both, here as elsewhere, and the most innocent the most -subjected here as elsewhere.</p> - -<p>Who, but loves this people who has lived among them, not expecting -perfection, nor a degree of disinterestedness which we do not as a -Nation possess nor as individuals illustrate?</p> - -<p>The Filipino has qualities which the longer you know him, commands your -respect and sympathy and his imperfections are no more disagreeable -than those of more highly developed peoples.</p> - -<p>She wants freedom, this great, beautiful land, and some day it will be -hers. The day she has it depends largely on herself and on those men -and women of ideals and of ideal lives, whether Spaniards, Americans, -or her own who march with the uncrowned monarchs of the race, not -towards the spoils, but the toils of each day, head high, hearts light, -because pure from greed and remorse.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</span></p> - -<p>A free people not in name but in reality.</p> - -<p>We have Clubs galore, English, German, French, Spanish, Filipino, the -“University Club” and the “Columbia,” this last especially for young -men. These clubs would compare favorably with those of other cities of -our size.</p> - -<p>Politically the islands have taken strides since the opening of the -“Philippine Assembly,” a body of men which has done credit to itself -already. The future of the islands, its prosperity lies along two -lines, mainly education and the agricultural development. Many rich -Filipinos are sending their sons to the States to be equipped for the -modern struggle, in both.</p> - -<p>Our Judiciary is highly praiseworthy, our Supreme Court we are very -proud of.</p> - -<p>The “Philippine Commission” has had men of considerable talent, men -of opportunity and availableness and its rule has not we believe been -stained with any greater faults, or crimes, than that of most governing -bodies. And it has been distinguished by much work well done.</p> - -<p>Some witty foreigner has said:</p> - -<p>“America is rather old to give as an excuse for her blundering that she -is young,” behind that sarcasm as behind all there is just a stinging -grain of truth. Our blunders as our self-assurance, the latter very -largely responsible for the former are often as amusing as instructive -to lookers-on of older civilizations, especially to those of the East, -who like the grandmother with the small boy, are startled and perplexed -at all the fancied improvements, she having spelt out that wonderous -word “life” which is the most bewildering in its meaning, some time -since.</p> - -<p>The aged granddame the Orient is being taught by a<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</span> somewhat flighty -and exceedingly imperious and headstrong youngster and she smiles -through her wrinkles often a superfine smile as she has seen so many -toy inventions and toy states rise, fall and even pass from memory -while she still lives on. She enjoys the spectacle of western sweat and -energy and she watches as all age does to see what sort of beings this -fancied superiority has produced. It is no wonder she still keeps on -smiling as she sees the pitiful result of so much dazzling modernism -and exquisite theories and grandiloquent faith shattered the moment -you touch its adherents. It is a very, very old story as old as when -woman first bore the transgression for herself and for man and through -her patience and heroism brought atonement. But the sun still rises in -splendor over Manila and we hope and wait and long, as they have since -the first whiteness followed the first darkness—for the day. There is -late talk of giving up the task America has set herself in the East. -If she does, it will be another sign of the triumph of those qualities -which are disintegrating her life at home, greed, ambition, social, -religious and political, the unsatisfied passion for pleasure which -makes her one of the most lawless and frivolous modern Nations.</p> - -<p>If you touch an orange it will roll over but many shocks will not turn -a world out of its orbit, for it is held in the hand of One, who can -guide a tangent, quite as well as a steady methodical body, and who can -remove at will a whole astral system. What the future holds is one of -the most solemn enigmas but only what America is can she put in here -and “would it were worthier.”</p> - -<p>Across the East the dawn is coming, not because the West<span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</span> is come to -teach her new forms of greed and ambition, but because the forces -within her, the eternal primeval elements are stirring and forming in -the combinations which mean life.</p> - -<p>Within her will come her salvation, not from without, from the Oriental -himself will come the best of his future.</p> - -<p>Western civilization has failed to produce on any large scale, noble -character, the East knows it. It has watched the falseness of the state -craft, the greater falseness of its religious love of aggrandizement, -it has seen in the adherents of the latter no reason to choose them as -a pattern, quite the contrary.</p> - -<p>The simple truthful faith of Christ whose ethical teachings are so -direct, so free from sophistry, a child might read it has been and is -today, the excuse for the darkest crimes. Said one of the leaders of -the Christian faith in Japan, “It is only with sinking heart one can -point to a faith which bears such fruits, when the so-called heathen -can teach us any day conduct which outshines ours as the sun a glow -worm.” From within must come the truth of God in her own soul as men -are every day more powerless to live it or teach it, though the truth -remains eternally vital.</p> - -<p>May the God of light guide this great, glorious Orient into a future of -illustrious achievement and untarnished ideals.</p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="img001m"> -<img src="images/001.jpg" class="w10" alt="Decorative image"> -</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</span></p> - - -<p class="center p2">PRESS OF<br> -STAPLES PRINTING CO.<br> -142 ESCOLTA<br> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</span></p> - - - -<hr class="x-ebookmaker-drop chap"> -<div class="chapter"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad1"> -<img src="images/ad1.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> - - -<hr class="tb"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</span></p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad2"> -<img src="images/ad2.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad3"> -<img src="images/ad3.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad4"> -<img src="images/ad4.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</span></p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad5"> -<img src="images/ad5.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad6"> -<img src="images/ad6.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad7"> -<img src="images/ad7.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</span></p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad8"> -<img src="images/ad8.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad9"> -<img src="images/ad9.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad10"> -<img src="images/ad10.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</span></p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad11"> -<img src="images/ad11.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad12"> -<img src="images/ad12.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</span></p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad13"> -<img src="images/ad13.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</span></p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad14"> -<img src="images/ad14.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</span></p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad15"> -<img src="images/ad15.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad16"> -<img src="images/ad16.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad17"> -<img src="images/ad17.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</span></p> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad18"> -<img src="images/ad18.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad19"> -<img src="images/ad19.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</span></p> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad20"> -<img src="images/ad20.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</span></p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad21"> -<img src="images/ad21.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad21a"> -<img src="images/ad21a.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad21b"> -<img src="images/ad21b.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</span></p> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad22"> -<img src="images/ad22.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad23"> -<img src="images/ad23.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</span></p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad24"> -<img src="images/ad24.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad25"> -<img src="images/ad25.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</span></p> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad26"> -<img src="images/ad26.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad27"> -<img src="images/ad27.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad28"> -<img src="images/ad28.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</span></p> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad29"> -<img src="images/ad29.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad30"> -<img src="images/ad30.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad31"> -<img src="images/ad31.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</span></p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad32"> -<img src="images/ad32.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad33"> -<img src="images/ad33.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad34"> -<img src="images/ad34.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</span></p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad35"> -<img src="images/ad35.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad36"> -<img src="images/ad36.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad37"> -<img src="images/ad37.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</span></p> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad38"> -<img src="images/ad38.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad39"> -<img src="images/ad39.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad40"> -<img src="images/ad40.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad41"> -<img src="images/ad41.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</span></p> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad42"> -<img src="images/ad42.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad43"> -<img src="images/ad43.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad44"> -<img src="images/ad44.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</span></p> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad45"> -<img src="images/ad45.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad46"> -<img src="images/ad46.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad47"> -<img src="images/ad47.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</span></p> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad48"> -<img src="images/ad48.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad49"> -<img src="images/ad49.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad50"> -<img src="images/ad50.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</span></p> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad51"> -<img src="images/ad51.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad52"> -<img src="images/ad52.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad53"> -<img src="images/ad53.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</span></p> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad54"> -<img src="images/ad54.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> - -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad55"> -<img src="images/ad55.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -<hr class="tb"> -<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</span></p> -<p class="center p2"><span class="figcenter" id="ad56"> -<img src="images/ad56.jpg" class="w50" alt="Ad"> -</span></p> -</div> -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter transnote"> -<h2 class="nobreak" id="Transcribers_Notes">Transcriber’s Notes</h2> - -<p>Errors in punctuation have been fixed.</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_20">Page 20</a>: “a a few” changed to “a few”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_23">Page 23</a>: “gates of Pyengyang” changed to “gates of Pyongyang”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_24">Page 24</a>: “The guage” changed to “The gauge”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_30">Page 30</a>: “Greek panitings” changed to “Greek paintings”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_31">Page 31</a>: “evening entertaiment” changed to “evening entertainment”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_46">Page 46</a>: “mayor it justly” changed to “mayor is justly”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_51">Page 51</a>: “Uyeno and Ochadomidzu” changed to “Uyeno and Ochanomidzu”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_69">Page 69</a>: “House of Purs” changed to “House of Peers”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_71">Page 71</a>: “I revisted” changed to “I revisited”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_76">Page 76</a>: “electricity, manufactury” changed to “electricity, -manufactory”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_85">Page 85</a>: “very unsatifactory” changed to “very unsatisfactory”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_86">Page 86</a>: “I belive” changed to “I believe”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_104">Page 104</a>: “bastian like walls” changed to “bastion like walls” “in -crsytal” changed to “in crystal”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_106">Page 106</a>: “a Nation possesss” changed to “a Nation possess”</p> - -<p><a href="#Page_132">Page 132</a>: “Fábrica de piauos” changed to “Fábrica de pianos”</p> -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK OUTPOSTS OF ASIA ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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