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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: The steeple-jack's instructor</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Clarence James Murray</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: November 15, 2022 [eBook #69360]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: deaurider and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STEEPLE-JACK'S INSTRUCTOR ***</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1"></a>[1]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp46" id="cover" style="max-width: 100em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/cover.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">The Steeple-Jack’s Instructor</p> - <p class="caption">The S. J. Lee Publishing Co. Chicago, U. S. A.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2"></a>[2]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3"></a>[3]</span></p> - -<h1><span class="smaller">THE</span><br> -STEEPLE-JACK’S<br> -INSTRUCTOR</h1> - -<div class="figcenter illowp75" id="tp-deco" style="max-width: 4.6875em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/tp-deco.jpg" alt=""> -</div> - -<p class="center">Showing the Modern Methods Used<br> -by Successful Steeple-Jacks</p> - -<p class="center larger">Price $2.00</p> - -<p class="titlepage">By CLARENCE JAMES MURRAY</p> - -<p class="titlepage"><span class="smaller">Published by</span><br> -THE S. J. LEE PUBLISHING CO.<br> -<span class="smaller">160 NORTH WELLS STREET<br> -CHICAGO, U. S. A.</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4"></a>[4]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5"></a>[5]</span></p> - -<div class="box"> - -<p class="center">Copyrighted 1921<br> -by<br> -The S. J. Lee Publishing Co.<br> -Chicago, U. S. A.</p> - -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6"></a>[6]</span></p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7"></a>[7]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak">CONTENTS</h2> - -</div> - -<table> - <tr> - <td></td> - <td class="tdpg">Page</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Introduction</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#How_to_Become_a_Steeple-Jack">9</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>How to Become a Steeple-Jack</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#How_to_Become_a_Steeple-Jack">9</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Smokestack</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#THE_SMOKESTACK">16</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>To Rig a Stack Without a Gimblet Wire</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#TO_RIG_A_STACK_WITHOUT_A_GIMBLET_WIRE">31</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>How to Change the Riggings</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#HOW_TO_CHANGE_THE_RIGGINGS">39</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Steel Stacks with Brick Lining</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#STEEL_STACKS_WITH_BRICK_LINING">40</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Smokestacks with Ladders</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#SMOKESTACKS_WITH_LADDERS">42</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Steel Stacks Decay at Band</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#STEEL_STACKS_DECAY_AT_BAND">43</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Reguying</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#REGUYING">44</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Tripping the Riggings</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#TRIPPING_THE_RIGGINGS">50</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Self-supporters</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#SELF-SUPPORTERS">55</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Knots</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#KNOTS">58</a><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8"></a>[8]</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Square Knot</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#SQUARE_KNOT">60</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Bow-line Knot</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#BOW-LINE">62</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Half-hitches</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#HALF_HITCHES">64</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Black Wall</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#THE_BLACK_WALL">66</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Tanks, Towers and Standpipes</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#TANKS_TOWERS_AND_STANDPIPES">67</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Standpipes</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#Page_69">69</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Water Towers</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#WATER_TOWERS">71</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Church Spires</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#CHURCH_SPIRES">74</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>The Flagstaff</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#THE_FLAGSTAFF">78</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Tops of Poles</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#TOP_OF_POLES">85</a></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Names of Knots, Bends, Bights and Hitches</td> - <td class="tdpg"><a href="#NAMES_OF_KNOTS_BENDS_BIGHTS_AND_HITCHES">93</a></td> - </tr> -</table> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9"></a>[9]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="How_to_Become_a_Steeple-Jack">How to Become a Steeple-Jack</h2> - -</div> - -<p>In this book I am placing before you -the secrets of a trade I have followed for -fourteen years. I have made as high as -$170 a day. It is a poor Steeple-Jack who -cannot make at least $25 a day. If you -have the ability, the appearance, and can -approach a business man, you need not -worry about getting his work.</p> - -<p>He is aware of the chances you are -taking. He has work that must be done, -and has an admiration for the man with -nerve enough to accomplish what he -would not undertake himself.</p> - -<p>Steeple-Jacks are always in demand. -When I speak of Steeple-Jacks, I refer to -men who comprehend that a certain thing -up in the air needs attention, whether it -is the reaving of halyards on a flagpole, -the adjustment of a cross on a steeple, the -replacing of a guy wire on a stack, the -repairing of the hands of a clock on a -tower, or the mere painting of any of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10"></a>[10]</span> -these lofty objects which ordinary -workmen are not courageous enough to -attempt.</p> - -<p>I know a great deal of this fascinating -game, but I do not want to convey to -you the thought that I know it ALL, for -that is not the truth. Bear in mind the -old adage: “We are never too old to -learn.”</p> - -<p>I call this work a game, because it -appeals to me as a great game, although -it is difficult work. People will gather -in crowds on the street to watch a -Steeple-Jack at his perilous duty. I use -the word “perilous” because that is what -it would look like to the man on the sidewalk, -but to one in the air it is just a trick -to the trade, and he would not exchange -places with the man who is so eagerly -watching every move he makes for fear -that he may make a wrong move.</p> - -<p>While he is thus busily engaged watching -you, the following questions run thru -his mind: “How in the world did he -ever get up there?” “How can he stay -up there so long?” His thoughts finally<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11"></a>[11]</span> -run something like this: “My, but he -certainly is brave.”</p> - -<p>From my experience with Steeple-Jacks -I am convinced that they never like -to be called “brave,” because stunts that -are pulled are all in the game, and it is no -more dangerous for a Steeple-Jack to -climb to the top of a flagpole or smokestack -than for the individual to ride in an -elevator, a motor car or train, for when -we consider the number of people who are -trusting to the safety of the above mentioned -conveyances, and the proportion of -accidents in comparison to the number -of Steeple-Jacks and the accidents in connection -with this trade, the Steeple-Jacks -are not at a disadvantage in respect to -casualties.</p> - -<p>It is to the credit of the Steeple-Jack, -however, that he is less careless regarding -the dangers of his profession than the -thoughtless traveling public.</p> - -<p>The Steeple-Jack considers it no more -irksome to go out on a job than the book-keeper -to go to his desk or a bank teller -to enter his cage. The only difference<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12"></a>[12]</span> -between the Steeple-Jack and the book-keeper -or bank teller is in regard to -working hours. The Steeple-Jack’s hours -range from two to four a day, while those -of the tradesman are from six to ten -hours a day. The Steeple-Jack, whose -day comprises about four hours (often -less and seldom more) makes <b>more</b> money -in his <b>day</b> than the average man makes -in a <b>week</b>.</p> - -<p>As before stated, I have had considerable -experience in the line about which -I write, and I therefore feel safe in saying -that no man is worthy of the title of -Steeple-Jack unless he can make at least -$20 a day in days when he chooses to -work less than the customary two to four -hours.</p> - -<p>From my past experiences I have come -to the conclusion that “time is money,” -and therefore my advice to any man who -entertains the idea of going into the great -game of a Steeple-Jack is to always bear -that slogan in mind and never perform -for the audience which you will undoubtedly -have watching you from the street.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13"></a>[13]</span> -Remember it is <b>your</b> time that is being -taken up by the performance of whatever -daring stunts you may be able to “show -off,” and no matter how large an audience -you may have, there are no benefits derived -therefrom.</p> - -<p>The work of a Steeple-Jack has a great -many assets besides that of being able to -earn a great amount of money. With the -exception of the money question, here are -two that will appeal to every man: First, -it is healthful work, because you are -always in the open air. Second, you have -no boss. You are your own boss and may -come and go when you please. However, -I would not advise any man who is following -this work to assume too great an -air of independence. We all concede that -it helps to be a <b>little</b> independent at times, -but always bear in mind that it is the -privilege of the “other fellow” to assume -an air of independence also, and, after all, -YOU are dependent upon his work. By -that I do not mean just one individual, -but I am taking your trade as a whole.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14"></a>[14]</span> -In business we must give and take. Remember -that.</p> - -<p>The Steeple-Jack’s work is ordinarily -performed on smokestacks, flagpoles and -church spires. You will agree with me -that there are very few who follow this -line of work. Just to prove this to you, -allow me to ask you a question: “How -many Steeple-Jacks do you know?” Perhaps -the answer will be “One,” “Two,” -or “Three,” and, again, it may be “Not -any.” I have worked in this business in -every large city in the United States and -I can candidly say that I have had very -little competition and, in a great many -cities, not any.</p> - -<p>Another important factor of this work -is always to endeavor to please the man -whose work you are doing and never to -do cheap or skimpy work, for I have been -convinced that cheap and skimpy workmanship -gains nothing for you. However, -on the other hand, if you put forth -your best and succeed in pleasing the man -who is to be considered, you can always -count on a renewed order the following<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15"></a>[15]</span> -year. REMEMBER: Satisfy the other -fellow first and you cannot help but satisfy -yourself.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16"></a>[16]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_SMOKESTACK">THE SMOKESTACK</h2> - -</div> - -<p>To a Steeple-Jack any stack, regardless -of whether it is composed of brick, -steel or concrete, is a smokestack. Undoubtedly -you have heard these stacks -referred to as chimneys; nevertheless, -from now on we will call them smokestacks.</p> - -<p>Steel smokestacks are supported by guy -wires. As a general rule two sets of guy -wires support a steel stack, but I have -often found a smokestack supported by -three sets of guy wires. These guy wires -consist of four wires to a set.</p> - -<p>There is supposed to be a wire which -runs through a sheave from the top of the -stock to enable the stack man to rig up. -This wire is flexible and is called a gimblet -wire. Above all things, do not use -this gimblet wire for ascending purposes; -by that I mean in such a manner as to -cause the weight of your body to rest -upon this wire, as there is often great -danger in an act of this kind.</p> - -<p>Read carefully the following few lines<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17"></a>[17]</span> -and you will be convinced of the risk you -are taking by endeavoring to ascend on -the gimblet wire.</p> - -<p>If the gimblet wire in question has been -in that position for a year, in all probability -it is rotten at the point where it -runs through the hook at the top of the -stack, and it would not take much weight -to loosen it. So bear in mind, no matter -how light or heavy in weight you may -be, do not climb up on the gimblet wire.</p> - -<p>The following is a more simple and far -more safe way of getting to the top:</p> - -<p>First of all, get a board from six to -nine feet in length and two to three inches -in depth. Take one end of the gimblet -wire and tie it to the end of your board, -and fasten the other end of the wire to -the board about three feet from the end. -Take your stack hook—a hook of good -⅝-inch steel. This hook should be about -fourteen inches long, the hook being six -inches long; a five-inch opening with an -eye opening of about two inches, so that -you can hook your block and tackle to it. -Attach your stack hook to the board on -the side opposite to where your gimblet -wire is fastened. Be sure the hook is -turned towards the stack.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18"></a>[18]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp60" id="illus01" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus01.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Ready to Pull the Rigging Up</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp93" id="illus02" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus02.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">The Boatswain Chair</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19"></a>[19]</span></p> - -<p>When this is done, pull on the wire; -that will draw up your riggings, reaving -your block and falls out to the size of the -stack, so as to enable you to keep them -from twisting with the gimblet wire. -Now, then, should this board be weak -and break while you have your riggings -near the top, to prevent them from falling -down and one end of the gimblet wire -from running to the top, tie a heavy piece -of cord to the end of the gimblet wire, -running it to the other end of the wire, -then fasten to your blocks.</p> - -<p>This will prevent a hard day’s work -untangling your riggings from the guy -wires, should the board break.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20"></a>[20]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp21" id="illus03" style="max-width: 12.5em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus03.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Tripping Riggings on Top of Stack</p> -</div> - -<p>After drawing your rigging to the top, -the board drawn tight up to the block on -top of the stack, pull on the gimblet wire -that is attached to the end of the board. -This motion brings the end of your board -bearing the hook and rigging up. In -some cases, the stack being small in diameter<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21"></a>[21]</span> -and the board being too long, the -hook will stick far out from the stack, -and with all hard efforts will not lodge it -over the top. When you have this proposition -to contend with, leave the stack -about three or four inches on the gimblet -wire that holds the board tight to the -block on the stack. In some cases you -have to drop the board as far as from -two to three feet below the block, in -order to get your hook in a position -where it will settle over the top of the -stack with the hooked part inside of the -stack.</p> - -<p>This is very important. Be sure that -the hook is not only setting on top. This -can be determined by twisting all four -lines, making them one bundle; then by -giving the lines a few switchings back -and forth in all directions. When this is -done and you have fully convinced yourself -that the hook is properly over the top, -then your next move is to start for the -top.</p> - -<p>If it is your first time in a boatswain -chair, I would suggest that you sound<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22"></a>[22]</span> -yourself first as to dizziness. This can -very easily be done by the following -method:</p> - -<p>Stand along the side of the stack, -throwing your head to one side and looking -up, allowing your eyes to follow the -stack and the clouds, shaking the head at -different times. This brings on dizziness. -Then stand erect, so as to clear your head. -After getting into the boatswain chair, -you place the fall line of your riggings—that -is, the line with which you draw -yourself up—between your legs. This -enables you and your helper to pull more -steadily together, and you get to the top -much quicker.</p> - -<p>I have noticed that the majority of -stack men regard this as the most difficult -part of the job—drawing to the top. -Once up, the job is half done.</p> - -<p>After you reach the top of the stack, -the first thing to be done is to cut away -the string that holds the stack hook to -the board. You then lower the board -to the ground. Still tied by the wire to -the board for further use in case you want<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23"></a>[23]</span> -to trip off with it when the job is finished.</p> - -<p>There is still an easier way, which I -will explain later. Now we will say the -work you are to do is paint. For your -information I will say that oil paint is -preferred by Steeple-Jacks for several reasons, -some of which are: It is easy to -apply in all kinds of weather; you are -bound to get plenty of it in the face, and -it is easier to wash off than tar. From -my personal experience I have found that -graphite and oil preserve a steel smokestack -better than any other. You will -come in contact with people who will differ -with you as to this point; however, -when you meet with a difficulty of this -nature, give the man what he asks for. -If he wants water, give him water; if he -desires to have tar, give it to him, but if -he wants something good, then suggest -an oil paint. Graphite and oil—the preservable.</p> - -<p>A great number of men with whom you -deal will say: “I want tar on my stack.” -I have learned from my own personal -experience that the answer which will in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24"></a>[24]</span> -nine cases out of ten take with the man -with whom you are dealing is something -on this order: “If you want tar, all right, -but it will cost you <b>more</b> money.” He -will immediately confront you with a -question similar to this: “Why is that?” -Your reply should be: “If I put tar on -your smokestack and come back next year -for your work, you will refuse me, because -tar blisters in places and rust forms under -the blisters, which prevent the rust from -being seen, and in a few years there are -holes in the stack, whereas an oil paint -wears off, showing the rust spots.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25"></a>[25]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp21" id="illus04" style="max-width: 12.5em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus04.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Changing Positions on Top of Stack</p> -</div> - -<p>However, I am running away from my -story. We will go back to the top of the -stack. You look down, getting straight -above a guy wire, reach over as far as you -can and paint, leaving the space directly -in front clear; drop down about ten feet, -painting as you go; draw up to the top -again, switching the stack hook over and -directly above the next nearest guy wire. -In order to accomplish this, take an extra -hook similar to your stack hook and -about seven feet of ½-inch line. Place<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26"></a>[26]</span> -the extra hook over the top; tie the other -end of the sling to the rope of your boatswain -chair, making it good and secure. -Then lower your weight from your rigging -until it rests on the extra hook and -sling. You then draw your regular stack -hook up to the extra hook. When this is -done you pull your weight again to your -riggings and push the extra hook around. -Do this until you get to the position you -want, just above the next nearest guy -wire, repeating the same as you did above -the other guy wire, painting about ten -feet down. When this is done, draw back -to the top, using the same method to get -over to the middle of the two spaces you -have painted.</p> - -<p>Then start to paint between the two -spaces already completed. By so doing -you are able to make a larger sweep on -your way down. In order to make time -on a stack it pays to have a helper on -the ground, so as to take the end of the -fall line or handy line and pull you around -and by doing this also help to keep you -in to the stack, which enables one to work<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27"></a>[27]</span> -to a better advantage and much quicker. -Remember, “Time is money,” and there -is lots of it to be made.</p> - -<p>The opportunity is there. Tradesmen -of all walks of life say: “Gee, business is -dull in my trade. If I only had the opportunity -that some people have.” A -Steeple-Jack should never say that, because -there is always work to be done on -a smokestack the year ’round. Don’t be -afraid to ask for it, and also a price. -Yours is not a common trade. It takes -brains, brawn and nerve, so don’t permit -your nerve to fail you when you are -asking a price.</p> - -<p>Another thing to be careful of is not -to allow your rope to get caught and -tangled in the end of a guy wire attached -to the stack at the band. Should this -happen, it may put you in a very hazardous -position. Give this a glance now and -then and, should such a thing happen, do -not get excited and start tugging. The -more you tug, the tighter it gets. Have -someone to switch it out from the ground. -It is possible to do this from the air.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28"></a>[28]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp34" id="illus05" style="max-width: 20.3125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus05.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Showing Falls Caught in Guy Wire</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29"></a>[29]</span></p> - -<p>High wind is the Steeple-Jack’s greatest -enemy. It is only a fool who would -attempt to rig a smokestack when the -wind is blowing a gale; in fact, it is almost -impossible to work in a high wind. More -work can be accomplished in one-fifth of -the time on a calm day. “Time is -money,” but always take time when your -life is at stake. Always keep in mind the -motto: “Safety First.”</p> - -<p>When tying up your riggings for the -night, and it might be calm at the close -of the day. Weather changes in a very -few minutes at times. To safeguard -against the rope from wearing against -the stack and guy wires, walk out about -fifteen feet from the stack, taking a piece -of extra sling. Tie the sling to some -object that is solid, throw two half-hitches -with your fall line around the riggings -just above the single block. When this -is done, pass the sling which you have -tied to some object through the hook of -the block, making it fastened to the block. -Then pull the slack out of your riggings -with the fall line, at the same time keeping<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30"></a>[30]</span> -the two half-hitches just above the -block. Do not take up all the slack; leave -some play in your lines, using your own -judgment as to whether the lines will -come in contact with the guy wires. The -weather will shrink the line more or less.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31"></a>[31]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TO_RIG_A_STACK_WITHOUT_A_GIMBLET_WIRE">TO RIG A STACK WITHOUT A GIMBLET WIRE</h2> - -</div> - -<p>When this proposition confronts you -it may look to you like a job not worth -fooling with. It can be done and, on -some stacks, almost as quickly as with -a gimblet wire.</p> - -<p>There are a number of ways to rig -without the aid of a gimblet, of which I -will show you two of the quickest and -most simple.</p> - -<p>Look over your guy wires and pick out -the most solid of the lot running to the -top band. Make sure of its anchorage. -There are supposed to be two clips at -each end of a guy wire where it is connected -to the turn-buckle, and at the band -place the double block without the stack -hook on the guy wire.</p> - -<p>Tie a long and heavy line to the block. -Take this line, passing it around all the -guy wires with the exception of the one -the block and falls are attached to. Then -reave out your line to what you would -figure the length of the stack to be.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32"></a>[32]</span> -You then take hold of the line that is -around the guys, pulling on it and at the -same time switching on your rigging. -Unless the guy wire is slanting at about -45 degrees down, your rigging will slide -up very easily.</p> - -<p>With this system it is possible to get -your rigging to within a very few feet -of the top band, then tie off your tug line, -be sure to some object that is good and -solid. Remember your weight will be -on that, and also your life.</p> - -<p>SAFETY FIRST always. You only -fall once. Use every safety device available. -Remember this book only tells you -how to rig, but it takes common sense -while following these methods, and that -is, take no chances where you <b>think</b> a -thing will hold. Be <b>sure</b> it holds.</p> - -<p>The first thing to do when getting into -the boatswain chair is to see that your -lines are not twisted. Have your helper -walk out some fifteen or twenty feet from -the stack. Take the fall line with you -on your way up. The stack hook, extra<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33"></a>[33]</span> -hook, sling string, small stick, hang line, -and you are ready.</p> - -<p>Quite a load going up! After placing -the line between your legs and your -helper stands away out, this helps to avoid -the twisting of your line. While going -up remember this: A very steady pull, -the two pulling together. Long grabs -and jerks are liable to prove disastrous, -as it may cause the line to snap. Half-inch -line has tremendous straining power; -nevertheless, there are flaws in rope and -rope also rots.</p> - -<p>My first experience on a stack I remember -I wanted to buy 1½-inch line. Now -wouldn’t I have had a wonderful time -trying to get that ton of rope to the top -of a smokestack! Since then I have used -¼-inch rope, but that is too small. At -any rate I had the correct idea of “Safety -First” at the beginning. However, ½-inch -is the proper size for a job not over -two hundred (200) feet high.</p> - -<p>Now, when nearing the top guy wire, -have your helper slack up, allowing you -to continue the pull alone. When the two<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34"></a>[34]</span> -blocks are together tie a safety line to the -wire. Tie the extra hook to the stick and -the end of the sling to your chair, then -in the hook, passing the hook over and -in the eye of the band. Pull the stick -away from the hook. You then tie the -stick to the block attached to the guy -wire. After this is done, lower yourself -until your weight rests on the line hooked -in at the band.</p> - -<p>Make sure when lifting the riggings -away from the wire that they don’t fall, -leaving you up there in a great predicament. -If this should happen, you will -agree with me on that point.</p> - -<p>Experience is a great teacher. I have -had this experience: On lifting the block -away from the wire, place it in the eye -of the band; also draw yourself up close -to the band. Untie the sling, tying it -closer to the hook, then draw up a long -pole—the size you figure you will need -to reach the top with. Tie the stack hook -to the pole; put the block and falls in the -hook; push it to the top.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35"></a>[35]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp34" id="illus06" style="max-width: 20.3125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus06.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Poling to the Top of a Smokestack</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36"></a>[36]</span></p> - -<p>Now, not in all cases is this as easy to -do as to say. If the top is only fifteen or -twenty feet from the band, it can be done -without much effort, but should it be a -reach of thirty or thirty-five feet, I would -suggest the following method:</p> - -<p>Tie a hook to the pole just so it will -stay on. A light hook is required for this. -Place your handy line through the eye of -the hook. Tie the handy line end down -about eight feet from the top of the pole, -then lash yourself to the band, pull yourself -up and stand in the chair, throwing -one leg over the guy wire. Make yourself -good and solid, spread your feet out in -the chair. Do not have them together. -This sometimes prevents the chair from -sliding to one side. Above all remember -never to let your riggings get away from -you. You are in a mighty tiresome position. -Always be sure to have a handy line -with you in making a reach of thirty or -thirty-five feet. Figure your pole, which -is only two by two or so, is easily broken -in a little wind. I have had poles break -eight or ten times before reaching the top -of a stack.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37"></a>[37]</span></p> - -<p>Now, in pushing the pole up with a -handy line, always wait until the wind -ceases for a second, then up with it. This -has to be done quickly. With the pole -leaning against the stack once over the -top, pull the pole away from the light -hook, lower the pole until the top end is -at the band. Tie on the hook and block, -then, with the handy line now over the -top, pull on it and at the same time push -on the pole with a steady push and pull. -The rest is very simple. After this is -accomplished, undo yourself from the -band, lowering yourself into the boatswain -chair. Hook up the riggings to -the chair, start for the top, cut away the -pole, lower it down and start your work.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38"></a>[38]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp48" id="illus07" style="max-width: 28.125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus07.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Climbing Guy Wire with Slings and Chair</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39"></a>[39]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="HOW_TO_CHANGE_THE_RIGGINGS">HOW TO CHANGE THE RIGGINGS</h2> - -</div> - -<p>When completing one side of a stack -and in order to get the tackle to another -position on the stack, twist the rope, making -it all in one; then leave a little slack -to make a snake whip movement towards -the top, and you will have the satisfaction -of seeing your rigging move around on -the top. If the wind is blowing hard, perhaps -you will have to do several of the -switching movements before getting the -hook to start to move. Then take the line -around the guy wire and you are ready -for the next set.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40"></a>[40]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="STEEL_STACKS_WITH_BRICK_LINING">STEEL STACKS WITH BRICK LINING</h2> - -</div> - -<p>You will encounter a little difficulty in -the shifting of your riggings from the -ground when you are working on steel -stacks with brick linings. In fact, you -will save time by not trying to shift from -the ground. If the brick extends all the -way to the top, you will have to have a -hook large enough to spread over the -steel and brick.</p> - -<p>It is wise to go to the top, whether you -have to tow it over fresh paint or not. In -doing this you have your helper walk out -some fifteen or twenty feet. You then -place your legs around the fall line; after -this is done both you and your helper pull -together.</p> - -<p>In this movement you are going up -backwards with your back towards the -stack, until about half way up; then turn -with your face towards the stack. Daub -the tips of your shoes with paint; this -helps to cover up the prints of your shoes -on the fresh paint. If you do not comply<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41"></a>[41]</span> -with this rule, the print of your shoes on -the fresh paint will look from the ground -as if those spots had never been painted, -and would tend to leave a bad impression -as to your workmanship with the man for -whom you are doing this work. Neat and -impressive work draws more returns. On -reaching the top an equal size hook is -required, as aforesaid, with the sling, -afterward having your helper take the fall -line over the guy wires and you are ready -to do another set.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42"></a>[42]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="SMOKESTACKS_WITH_LADDERS">SMOKESTACKS WITH LADDERS</h2> - -</div> - -<p>There is no use of going into detail -about rigging a stack that has a ladder -on it. This can be answered in a very few -words: Walk up the ladder and hook the -rigging over the top. But there is this -much about it—Watch your step! These -ladders after a few years become very -rusty and the bolts where connected from -the inside are sometimes eaten away by -the gas from the coal, and just a little -weight on them might cause the handles -to give way. So always remember to be -very careful when climbing a smokestack -that has a ladder connected to it.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43"></a>[43]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="STEEL_STACKS_DECAY_AT_BAND">STEEL STACKS DECAY AT BAND</h2> - -</div> - -<p>You will notice that as a general rule -steel stacks commence to weaken at the -first half-dozen sections from the top -downward, or at the band. The rain -hitting the in- and outside from the top, -and lying around the band, is causing the -rust to form more quickly than on any -other part of the stack. This accounts -for the aforesaid parts weakening the -quickest.</p> - -<p>It is always wise to sound a stack at -the top and band so as to determine -whether it will stand much tugging or -bouncing upon. If it looks weak and you -make up your mind that you will go -through with what you are doing, I would -suggest that you do all the pulling and -take just what tools you can possibly get -along with.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44"></a>[44]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="REGUYING">REGUYING</h2> - -</div> - -<p>To reguy a smokestack it is necessary -to have these parts before the job is really -called complete: Turn-buckles for the -bottom ends of the guys and clips for both -ends. Although you can guy a smokestack -without these articles, it is best to -have them. Without the aid of the turn-buckle -to draw the slack out of the guy -wires, a device like this can be used: -Lash the guy wire with a sling, using two -half-hitches so as to grip the wire. Tie -a bow-line knot at the opposite end so as -to enable you to attach the block and -fall, placing the opposite block in the eye -of the guy wire anchor, then by pulling -on the fall line, this takes the slack from -the wire, even with the turn-buckles. -Sometime you will have to resort to this -method in order to take up the loose -slack.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45"></a>[45]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus08" style="max-width: 43.75em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus08.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Drawing Guy Wire Tight with Block and Falls</p> -</div> - -<p>When guying a stack the first thing to -do is to place the spool that holds the -wire between two boxes of equal size. -Take your handy line and a small single<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46"></a>[46]</span> -block when going up to attach the guys; -hook this single block to the eye of the -band at the position where you are to -work; have your helper tie the handy line -about three feet down from the end of -the guy wire, and then bend the wire -double. You then have your helper do -the pulling up of the guy wire. Should -you do the pulling while sitting in the -chair, you would soon notice the strain -from it in the stomach. As you have -nothing under the feet to press the strain -there, it really falls to the stomach to -receive all the hard work. Always leave -some slack to the guy wire.</p> - -<p>A stack must vibrate to a certain extent, -therefore if the guy wires are drawn -as tight as they possibly can be, the -chances are the result would be a broken -wire or an anchor giving way.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47"></a>[47]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp48" id="illus09" style="max-width: 28.125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus09.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Helper Pulling Guy Wire Up to Stack Band</p> -</div> - -<p>In using clips to fasten the wire at both -ends, they should be a size larger than -the guy wire, and when clips are not available, -allow about two feet over. After -passing guy wires through the eye of the -band or the eye of the anchor, take a piece<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48"></a>[48]</span> -of gas pipe of a size that will slip down -over the guy wire some foot or a foot and -a half, then twist the end of the guy wire -with the gas pipe around the other part -of wire that extends down. This is a -wonderful way to fasten the wire to the -stack, and will last as long as the stack -will.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49"></a>[49]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp40" id="illus10" style="max-width: 23.4375em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus10.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Turning Guy Wire with Steel Pipe</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50"></a>[50]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TRIPPING_THE_RIGGINGS">TRIPPING THE RIGGINGS</h2> - -</div> - -<p>Tripping the riggings off the stack -after the job is completed takes only the -work of a few minutes. See to it before -making the last trip up that you have that -necessary appliance with which to save -you a few unnecessary trips up and down.</p> - -<p>Take a small steel bar about ¼-inch -in size and bend it into the shape of the -letter S. Judge the diameter of the band -on top of the stack; make the hook so it -will fit snugly on top. This hook should -not be over five inches long. After placing -the trip hook on the stack, take your -handy line, lay it on the hook, tie the end -of your line in the eye of your stack hook, -then tie up about two inches above the -eye in several places. The last two tie-offs -will prevent the stack hook from falling -to one side.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51"></a>[51]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp21" id="illus11" style="max-width: 12.5em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus11.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Handy Line Attached from S Hook to Stack Hook</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52"></a>[52]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp21" id="illus12" style="max-width: 12.5em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus12.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Results of Turning Hook in Wrong Direction</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53"></a>[53]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp21" id="illus13" style="max-width: 12.5em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus13.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Hook Turned in Proper Direction for Tripping</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54"></a>[54]</span></p> - -<p>After leaving the stack, have your -helper tie the handy line away from the -stack. This flopping back and forth will -annoy you while at work. After you have -finished and are ready to trip, twist the -rigging until it is twisted all the way to -the top. In doing this twist the rope so -that the stack hook will turn out and -away from the trip hook. This is important. -Leave slack on the riggings at the -same time. Do not let it untwist. Then -take the trip line, pull steady on it, until -you see the stack hook raise up and over -the stack. Then lower on the trip line -until you see the stack hook is off and -below the top of the stack. Then let go -of the riggings so they will untwist; lower -away; untie the handy line from the block -hook; then pull one end of the handy line -to the top. It will go through the small -S up there and fall to the ground, leaving -the small S hook on top of the stack.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55"></a>[55]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="SELF-SUPPORTERS">SELF-SUPPORTERS</h2> - -</div> - -<p>Steel smokestacks are generally supported -by guy wires, although there are -some steel stacks without guy wires, -which are called self-supporters.</p> - -<p>Self-supporters taper at the base and -have an extra heavy foundation and a -ladder to enable you to climb to the top, -although in my travels I have come in -contact with one self-supporter that had -neither ladder nor gimblet wire. Fortunately -this self-supporter was very small -in diameter.</p> - -<p>In order to make the top of this particular -stack I had to rely on an extension -ladder, working my way up by degrees; -first lashing the ladder to the stack, extending -it as far as safety would permit, -then lashing the stack again with an extra -large sling about ¾-inch, making a bow-line -knot and with a sling to both sides -of the ladder I used the block and fall, -pulling the bottom part of the ladder up -as far as possible, lashing off again, then -pushing the top part up.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56"></a>[56]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp34" id="illus14" style="max-width: 20.3125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus14.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Ladder Lashed to Self-Supporting Stack</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57"></a>[57]</span></p> - -<p>After making the lower half of the -extension ladder solid at the top and bottom -so as not to permit it to sway to -either side, climb the top half of the ladder, -lashing the stack again, and repeat -as before. Guy wires have to be replaced -from time to time, as these wires rust and -fall down, leaving the stack to the mercy -of the winds, if not attended to before -they become so badly decayed.</p> - -<p>As stated before, stacks that are supported -by guy wires have from one to -three sets, and generally four wires to a -set. A ½-inch galvanized wire is sufficient -for any stack, although some people -prefer a larger size wire for double -safety.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58"></a>[58]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="KNOTS">KNOTS</h2> - -</div> - -<p>Knots are a very important factor in -the Steeple-Jack’s life. Only knots that -have been properly tested should be used. -Many a terrible disaster has been caused -by the use of a knot which was quickly -invented by a man and never tested. -Avoid such accidents by learning to tie -knots in the proper fashion.</p> - -<p>Slip knots are bothersome as well as -dangerous to both the person working in -the air and the people walking underneath. -There are very few knots that are -useful to the Steeple-Jack, and it is well -for every man following this trade to -learn to make these few knots well and -thereby avoid delay when in need.</p> - -<p>For instance, if you were on the top -of a stack and saw a part of your rigging -that did not look any too safe, or you -were near a band and saw your hook was -only sitting on top of the stack and not -inside, as it should be. A sling and the -knowledge of tying knots properly is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59"></a>[59]</span> -required. Practice until you are thoroughly -familiar with this important part -of your trade.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60"></a>[60]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="SQUARE_KNOT">SQUARE KNOT</h2> - -</div> - -<p>As I said before, slippery knots are -bothersome in many cases. When you -use the slip knot the only way to get -it out is to cut the line; then you are disfiguring -the line or shortening it.</p> - -<p>The square knot and the bow-line knot -are the ones most commonly used.</p> - -<p>In tying a square knot take the ends of -the rope, passing the left end over and -under the right, and then take the right -end and pass it over and under the left.</p> - -<p>In trying to make the square knot there -often forms what is known to line men -as “the granny,” which is useless for any -hazardous purpose. Follow the instructions -of right over and left over and you -can’t go wrong in making the best-liked -knot of all—the SQUARE KNOT.</p> - -<p>In using the square knot while working -in the chair, make two half hitches in -each end of the line. This is used to insure -double safety.</p> - -<p>When using the square knot for the -purpose of adding more line to the riggings, -tie both ends of the lines (as illustrated -on <a href="#Page_61">page 61</a>).</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61"></a>[61]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus15" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus15.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Square Knot</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus16" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus16.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Granny Knot</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus17" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus17.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Square Knot Sized at Both Ends</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62"></a>[62]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="BOW-LINE">BOW-LINE</h2> - -</div> - -<p>A more efficient knot than the bow-line -knot was never known. This knot is -used more than any five knots put together -in the Steeple Jack’s work.</p> - -<p>The bow-line knot is mostly favored in -climbing a flagstaff, when making the -stirrup to climb, and in many ways for the -smokestack.</p> - -<p>In making the bow-line knot follow the -illustrations according to numbers. In -No. 1 the rope is formed in a bight; pass -No. 1 through the bight under then over -and then under, as illustrated in No. 2; -then over and down through the bight as -illustrated in Nos. 3 and 4. Draw tight -as illustrated on <a href="#Page_63">page 63</a>.</p> - -<p>As I said before, the bow-line knot is a -very useful knot on the flagpole. By -placing the sling around the pole, passing -the end through the eye, then make your -bow-line knot, leaving the loop for the -size of your foot so as to slip your foot in.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63"></a>[63]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp48" id="illus18" style="max-width: 28.125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus18.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">How to Tie the Bow-line Knot</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64"></a>[64]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="HALF_HITCHES">HALF HITCHES</h2> - -</div> - -<p>The half hitch is used very frequently -by the Steeple Jack, especially in tying off -the riggings for the night or pulling up -a pole or paint. In making the half -hitches, pass the end around the object -you are tying, then over and around, -standing part between the object and itself; -then under and around the standing -parts and between own loop and the one -first formed. It is no more difficult and -takes no longer to make this knot than it -does for you to count three. Illustrations -on <a href="#Page_65">page 65</a>.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65"></a>[65]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp40" id="illus19" style="max-width: 23.4375em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus19.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Half Hitch</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66"></a>[66]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_BLACK_WALL">THE BLACK WALL</h2> - -</div> - -<p>The Black Wall, known by many as -the chair hitch, is used by the Steeple -Jack while working in the chair up or -down; stopping to rest or work, reach -through the rope of your chair, grab the -fall line by the right hand, pulling it -through between yourself and the rope of -your chair. At the same movement turning -the rope from left to right making a -loop in this movement, reach up and set -it on the hook of the block at the chair; -while doing this reach with the left hand -and hold your four lines tight together. -This prevents you from going down while -making the Black Wall or chair hitch, as -it is commonly known.</p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp46" id="illus20" style="max-width: 15.625em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus20.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Black Wall Knot</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67"></a>[67]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TANKS_TOWERS_AND_STANDPIPES">TANKS, TOWERS AND STANDPIPES</h2> - -</div> - -<p>Water tanks, water towers or water -standpipes are an easy matter to work -on as far as the rigging is concerned, but -not as much money is to be made as on -smokestacks, church steeples and flagpoles. -Nevertheless, they are worth soliciting.</p> - -<p>Take, for instance, a water tank. A -water tank consists of only the tank itself -sitting on a flat roof or ground. Water -tanks vary in size.</p> - -<p>We will say a tank twelve (12) feet in -diameter, fifteen (15) feet in height, with -very little rust scales. This tank can be -painted in about three hours and requires -no more than three and one-half gallons -of oil paint. I have received as high as -Sixty ($60.00) Dollars for a few hours’ -work on tanks of this kind.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68"></a>[68]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp48" id="illus21" style="max-width: 28.125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus21.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Painting Water Tank</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69"></a>[69]</span></p> - -<p>Standpipes are more on the order of -smokestacks. Some have brick foundations -running up a third of the way and -again others have brick half of the way -up and the other half steel, while you find -some that are all steel from the bottom -to the top.</p> - -<p>All standpipes have ladders going to the -top, therefore it is an easy matter to rig -such standpipes with a set of falls and -work in a boatswain chair.</p> - -<p>For an example we will take a standpipe -that is made of steel and that is one -hundred and twenty-five (125) feet in -height, twelve (12) feet in diameter. A -standpipe of this kind would require about -eighteen (18) gallons of oil paint. It -would take one man working in a boatswain -chair about three and one-half -(3½) days. It is always safe to ask -about $250.00 for a job of this nature.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70"></a>[70]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp34" id="illus22" style="max-width: 20.3125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus22.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Painting Standpipe</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71"></a>[71]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="WATER_TOWERS">WATER TOWERS</h2> - -</div> - -<p>A chair man considers a water tower -more difficult to work on than the two -mentioned previously.</p> - -<p>The majority of water towers are supported -by four stiff legs. Some have -more and very few less. You will find -very few water towers that stand less -than one hundred and fifty (150) feet -high.</p> - -<p>To paint a water tower it is best to -start on the tank proper, tying a rope -over the ball or pole that extends from -the top of the tank, allowing enough rope -so that it will extend to the edge of the -roof of the tank, then attach the block -and falls to same. Take the other end of -the rope, which is attached to the top of -the tank, running it down on the opposite -side from where you are going to -work, and there fasten it securely to the -beam under the platform to the other -side.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72"></a>[72]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp40" id="illus23" style="max-width: 23.4375em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus23.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">WATER TOWER</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73"></a>[73]</span></p> - -<p>Attach the riggings at the top of each -stiff leg to the platform while working -down the leg supports.</p> - -<p>It takes considerable time and plenty -of patience when working on a water -tower.</p> - -<p>A water tower one hundred and fifty -(150) feet high with four stiff legs and -the tank proper about twelve (12) feet -in diameter by twenty (20) feet in height -will require in the neighborhood of twenty-five -(25) gallons of oil paint. It will -take one man approximately four days -and a half (4½). It should not be difficult -for you to secure about Three Hundred -and Fifty ($350.00) Dollars for a -job of this kind.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74"></a>[74]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHURCH_SPIRES">CHURCH SPIRES</h2> - -</div> - -<p>A tapering construction and not a hard -job to rig after once tried. If you are -capable of rigging a church spire, then it -is an easy matter for you to rig a church -dome or any other structure of that -nature.</p> - -<p>For the majority of church jobs an extension -ladder is the handiest article. -After drawing the extension ladder up to -what is known to the Jack as the pigeon -hole window in the church spire, build -your platform from the window with 3×4 -lumber, extending it out some six feet; -lower a line down on both sides of the -window, having your helper tie the two -ends together around the lower section -of the spire. Then by drawing it to the -window you will have your first loop -around the steeple. Place the extension -ladder on the platform; nail two boards -to the inside of the window, then attach -other ends of boards to the ladder. Use -all the safety devices available when -going out on the ladder. Lash the ladder<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76"></a>[76]</span> -wherever it is possible and also yourself -by placing a line under the arms and -tying the line that you have around the -spire, working it up as far as you can go, -then lash this to the ladder so as to keep -the ladder from swaying to the left or -right.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75"></a>[75]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp40" id="illus24" style="max-width: 23.4375em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus24.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Showing Ladder Position from Pigeon-hole -on Spire</p> -</div> - -<p>An extension ladder will bring you -within a distance from which you can -easily lasso the spire. Then by using the -system already mentioned in the self-supporting -stacks without ladders you -will be in a position to accomplish any -work you are on the spire for.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77"></a>[77]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp34" id="illus25" style="max-width: 20.3125em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus25.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Showing Where Riggings Should -Be Lashed at Top of Spire</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78"></a>[78]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_FLAGSTAFF">THE FLAGSTAFF</h2> - -</div> - -<p>Although the flagstaff is the most simple -part of the Steeple Jack’s work, at the -same time it is the most dangerous. -Before climbing a wooden pole look all -around it first to see if any cracks are -visible. In all probability there are, as -most wooden poles are cracked. If the -crack runs up and down then the pole is -safe, unless it is dry rot, but if the crack -runs crosswise on the pole watch your -step. Chances are it will hold, but again -it might not. Watch your step, because -no one will watch it for you. Remember, -a man can only fall once.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79"></a>[79]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp26" id="illus26" style="max-width: 15.625em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus26.jpg" alt=""> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80"></a>[80]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="THE_STAFF">THE STAFF</h2> - -</div> - -<p>The flagpole is composed of the following -parts: The pole ball, spindle, -truck, sheave, cleat, brace and halyard.</p> - -<p>The halyard is the rope with which the -flag is drawn up to the top, and it is never -used for climbing purposes. The art of -climbing a flagpole with ease and performing -that which is to be done upon -the pole will be explained in detail -later on.</p> - -<p>The ball on the top of the staff plays -no important part. It is used more for -ornamental purposes than anything else.</p> - -<p>The spindle is the rod that runs from -the ball through the truck into the pole.</p> - -<p>The truck holds the sheave.</p> - -<p>The sheave holds the halyard.</p> - -<p>The cleat is for the purpose of tying -the halyard to a few feet from the base -of the pole. The majority of poles have -iron braces for support connected about -six (6) feet up from the base of the pole.</p> - -<p>From experience I find the steel pole -the most dangerous. In my opinion it is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81"></a>[81]</span> -more dangerous than the wooden pole for -the reason that rust forms inside of the -steel pole and around the bands where it -is connected, and in the winter time it is -easily broken by the cold weather if any -weight is put on it, whereas the wooden -pole can be tested by sounding it as to its -condition.</p> - -<p>If the wooden pole has the dead sound -it is in all probability dry rot, and with a -pole of this kind I would advise you to -be extremely careful. Never sway such -a pole any more than you absolutely must, -and take plenty of time in climbing it. A -pole in this condition gives no warning -before it breaks, but a pole with plenty -of sap gives a cracking sound before it -gives way, which gives the man working -on it a chance to slide to a more secure -position.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82"></a>[82]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp21" id="illus27" style="max-width: 12.5em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus27.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Climbing Flagstaff With Slings</p> -</div> - -<p>A boatswain chair and two slings are -the only tools necessary to work on a -flagpole. Take two slings made of at -least ½-inch line, splice an eye in the -end of each sling—the eye being about -two inches in diameter; place the sling<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83"></a>[83]</span> -around the pole, drawing the end opposite -from the eye through the eye; do likewise -with the other sling; tie the boatswain -chair to the top sling, allowing five inches -from the rope of the boatswain chair to -the eye of the sling; tie a loop in the end -of the lower sling—tying a bow-line knot. -This is called a stirrup. Leave the same -distance from eye to knot as from the -chair to the knot. Get into the boatswain -chair.</p> - -<p>The first thing to do is to see that the -loop around the pole is as tight as it will -go. Then place your foot in the stirrup, -take hold of the pole to steady yourself, -raise up in the stirrup, and with the -right hand push the sling holding the -chair up, again making the sling tight to -the pole. Sit down in the chair, reach -down and pull the stirrup sling up until -you can get your foot in. Repeat these -movements and you will see how simple -it is to climb without exerting yourself.</p> - -<p>At every movement going up and coming -down make sure that the sling that -holds the chair is secure and thereby prevent<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84"></a>[84]</span> -it from slipping down. Should it -be loose and slip down and your foot in -the stirrup, the result would undoubtedly -be that you would be dangling in the air -head down. Avoid all of this by taking -every precaution.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85"></a>[85]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="TOP_OF_POLES">TOP OF POLES</h2> - -</div> - -<p>At any time you are working on a flagpole -and the work consists of replacing -a truck, ball or spindle, the only thing to -do is to make sure of the pole being solid -enough for a little swaying. If so, take a -sling, lash yourself to the pole under the -arms as a back brace, then reach up and -pull yourself up and stand in the chair. -Avoid shaking the pole as much as you -possibly can. Then draw up the saw.</p> - -<p>Saw off about one foot of the top, take -a brace and bit, drill the holes, chip off -around the edges and set your new truck -on. The spindle should be set about from -8 to 10 inches down in the pole, then -wedge in with small sticks to make it -solid.</p> - -<p>In painting a flagpole use the halyard -to hold your paint. Twist the rope several -times to keep it at the same distance -as yourself. In painting a pole work -down as you work up.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_86"></a>[86]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp21" id="illus28" style="max-width: 12.5em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus28.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Working the Top of a Flagstaff</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87"></a>[87]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus29" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus29.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">S Hook Used for Tripping Purpose</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus30" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus30.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Swivel Snap</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus31" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus31.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Cleat</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp37" id="illus32" style="max-width: 12.5em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus32.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Top of Flagstaff</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus33" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus33.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Five-inch Brush Is Mostly Used by Steeple-Jacks</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88"></a>[88]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus34" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus34.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Come-along Used for Tightening Guy Wire</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus35" style="max-width: 25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus35.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Double Steel Ball-bearing Block Is -Preferred by the Stack Man</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89"></a>[89]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus36" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus36.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Single Steel Block</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp46" id="illus37" style="max-width: 15.625em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus37.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Clip</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus38" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus38.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Guy Wire with Clips</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90"></a>[90]</span></p> - -<div class="figcenter illowp100" id="illus39" style="max-width: 31.25em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus39.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Turn-buckle</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp30" id="illus40" style="max-width: 12.5em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus40.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Gimblet Block</p> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter illowp22" id="illus41" style="max-width: 9.375em;"> - <img class="w100" src="images/illus41.jpg" alt=""> - <p class="caption">Extension Ladder</p> -</div> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91"></a>[91]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="PRICES_TO_CHARGE_FOR_WORK">PRICES TO CHARGE FOR WORK</h2> - -</div> - -<p>Prices vary in the different parts of the -country, so it is really difficult for me to -give you exact pointers on that, but we -will take for an example a smokestack -one hundred and fifty feet (150) feet high, -six (6) feet in diameter, in six sections of -the United States. These prices are figured -on the basis as follows (the firm or -individual for whom you are doing the -job is to furnish the paint under these -prices):</p> - -<table> - <tr> - <td>New York, N. Y.</td> - <td class="tdpg">$130.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Chicago, Ill.</td> - <td class="tdpg">170.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Denver, Colo.</td> - <td class="tdpg">170.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>San Antonio, Tex.</td> - <td class="tdpg">140.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>New Orleans, La.</td> - <td class="tdpg">135.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>San Francisco, Cal.</td> - <td class="tdpg">130.00</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>The following prices are used as to -flagstaffs sixty (60) feet high:</p> - -<table> - <tr> - <td>New York, N. Y.</td> - <td class="tdpg">$35.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Chicago, Ill.</td> - <td class="tdpg">40.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Denver, Colo.</td> - <td class="tdpg">40.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>San Antonio, Tex.</td> - <td class="tdpg">35.00<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92"></a>[92]</span></td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>New Orleans, La.</td> - <td class="tdpg">35.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>San Francisco, Cal.</td> - <td class="tdpg">35.00</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>With reference to forty (40) foot staffs, -use the following schedule:</p> - -<table> - <tr> - <td>New York, N. Y.</td> - <td class="tdpg">$25.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Chicago, Ill.</td> - <td class="tdpg">30.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>Denver, Colo.</td> - <td class="tdpg">30.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>San Antonio, Tex.</td> - <td class="tdpg">25.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>New Orleans, La.</td> - <td class="tdpg">25.00</td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td>San Francisco, Cal.</td> - <td class="tdpg">25.00</td> - </tr> -</table> - -<p>As above stated, these are not standard -prices, but it is safe for you to quote your -prices along these lines.</p> - -<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop"> - -<div class="chapter"> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93"></a>[93]</span></p> - -<h2 class="nobreak" id="NAMES_OF_KNOTS_BENDS_BIGHTS_AND_HITCHES">NAMES OF KNOTS, BENDS, BIGHTS AND HITCHES</h2> - -</div> - -<ul> -<li>Black Wall Hitch</li> -<li>Bow Knots</li> -<li>Bow-line</li> -<li>Bow-line on bight</li> -<li>Bow shortening</li> -<li>Builders’ hitch</li> -<li>Builders’ knot</li> -<li>Butchers’ knots</li> -<li>Catspaws</li> -<li>Chain hitch</li> -<li>Chain knots</li> -<li>Clinches</li> -<li>Close band</li> -<li>Clove hitch</li> -<li>Crown knots</li> -<li>Cuckolds’ necks</li> -<li>Deadeyes</li> -<li>Dogshanks</li> -<li>Double chain</li> -<li>Double crown</li> -<li>Double figure-eight</li> -<li>Double knots</li> -<li>Double wall</li> -<li>Double wall and crown</li> -<li>Eye splice</li> -<li>Figure-eight knot</li> -<li>Fisherman’s hitch</li> -<li>Fisherman’s knot</li> -<li>Fivefold knot</li> -<li>Flemish eye</li> -<li>Fourfold knot</li> -<li>French shroud knot</li> -<li>Gaff-topsail halyard bend</li> -<li>Garrick bend</li> -<li>Gordian knot</li> -<li>Granny knot</li> -<li>Gunner’s knot</li> -<li>Half-hitch</li> -<li>Half-hitch and seizing</li> -<li>Half-hitch</li> -<li>Hawser hitch</li> -<li>Hawsers</li> -<li>Hitches<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94"></a>[94]</span></p></li> -<li>Larks’ heads</li> -<li>Magnus hitch</li> -<li>Manrope knot</li> -<li>Matthew Walker knot</li> -<li>Midshipmen’s hitch</li> -<li>Mooring knots</li> -<li>Open-hand knot</li> -<li>Ordinary knot</li> -<li>Overhand knot</li> -<li>Pier bend</li> -<li>Reef knot</li> -<li>Reefing knots</li> -<li>Roband hitch</li> -<li>Rolling hitch</li> -<li>Running bow-line</li> -<li>Running knot</li> -<li>Sailors’ knots</li> -<li>Sheepshanks</li> -<li>Short splice</li> -<li>Shroud knots</li> -<li>Simple hitch</li> -<li>Simple knots</li> -<li>Sixfold knot</li> -<li>Slip knots</li> -<li>Slippery hitch</li> -<li>Square knots</li> -<li>Stopper knot</li> -<li>Threefold knot</li> -<li>Throat seizing</li> -<li>Timber hitch</li> -<li>Tomfool knot</li> -<li>Treble knot</li> -<li>Turks’ caps</li> -<li>Turks’ heads</li> -<li>Twist knot</li> -<li>Wall knots</li> -<li>Waterman’s knot</li> -<li>Weavers’ knot</li> -<li>Wedding knot</li> -<li>Whipping</li> -<li>Wind knots</li> -</ul> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95"></a>[95]</span></p> - -<div class="box"> - -<p class="center">THE END</p> - -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STEEPLE-JACK'S INSTRUCTOR ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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