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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..38d49a4 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #69295 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/69295) diff --git a/old/69295-0.txt b/old/69295-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index bd3d2dc..0000000 --- a/old/69295-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,7135 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook of The land of gold; reality versus -fiction, by Hinton R. Helper - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you -will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before -using this eBook. - -Title: The land of gold; reality versus fiction - -Author: Hinton R. Helper - -Release Date: November 5, 2022 [eBook #69295] - -Language: English - -Produced by: Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at - http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images - available at The Internet Archive) - -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF GOLD; REALITY -VERSUS FICTION *** - - - - - - THE - - LAND OF GOLD. - - REALITY VERSUS FICTION. - - BY - HINTON R. HELPER. - - BALTIMORE: - PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR, - BY HENRY TAYLOR, SUN IRON BUILDING. - 1855. - - - Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, by - HINTON R. HELPER, -In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, for the - District of Maryland. - - - SHERWOOD & CO., PRINTERS, - BALTIMORE. - - - - - TO THE - - HON. JOHN M. MOREHEAD, - - OF NORTH CAROLINA, - - These Pages are respectfully Dedicated, - - BY HIS - - SINCERE FRIEND AND ADMIRER, - - THE AUTHOR. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -Previous to my departure for California, near and dear friends extracted -from me a promise to communicate by letter, upon every convenient -occasion, such intelligence as would give them a distinct idea of the -truthfulness or falsehood of the many glowing descriptions and reputed -vast wealth of California. In accordance with this promise, I collected, -from the best and most reliable sources, all that I deemed worthy of -record touching the past of the modern El Dorado, relying upon my own -powers of observation to depicture its present condition and its future -prospects. - -This correspondence was never intended for the public eye, for the -simple reason that the matter therein is set forth in a very plain -manner, with more regard to truth than elegance of diction. Indeed, how -could it be otherwise? I have only described those things which came -immediately under my own observation, and, beside this, I make no -pretensions to extensive scholastic attainments, nor do I claim to be an -adept in the art of book-making. - -A weary and rather unprofitable sojourn of three years in various parts -of California, afforded me ample time and opportunity to become _too_ -thoroughly conversant with its rottenness and its corruption, its -squalor and its misery, its crime and its shame, its gold and its dross. -Simply and truthfully I gave the history of my experience to friends at -home, who, after my return, suggested that profit might be derived from -giving these letters to the world in narrative form, and urged me so -strenuously, that I at length acceded to their wishes, but not without -much reluctance, being doubtful as to the reception of a book from one -so incapable as myself of producing any thing more than a plain -“unvarnished tale.” - -In order to present a more complete picture of California, I have added -two chapters, that describing the route through Nicaragua, and the -general _resume_ at the close of my volume. All that I solicit for this, -my first offering, is a liberal and candid examination; not of a part, -but of the whole--not a cursory, but a considerate reading. - - H. R. H. - -SALISBURY, North Carolina, 1855. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - -CHAPTER I. - -CALIFORNIA UNVEILED. - -Introductory Remarks--Erroneous opinions respecting -California--Sterility of the Soil--The Seasons--Destitution of -Mechanical and Manufacturing Resources--Dependence upon Importations -for the Conveniences and Necessaries of Life--No Inducement to become -Permanent Residents of the country 13 - - -CHAPTER II. - -THE BALANCE SHEET. - -California statistically considered--Cost of the Treaty of Guadalupe -Hidalgo--Price of Passage and Services of Immigrants--Total Yield -of the Mines--Amount of Property destroyed by Fires, Freshets and -Inundations--List of Sailing Vessels and Steamers Wrecked upon the -coast--Public Debt of the State--Debts of San Francisco, Sacramento -and Marysville--Loss of Life by violent measures--Extract from the -Louisville Journal 23 - - -CHAPTER III. - -SOCIETY IN CALIFORNIA. - -Extraordinary Depravity and Corruption--Reasons assigned for the laxity -of Morals--Much of the Degeneracy and Dissipation attributable to -the absence of female society--The Case of an English gentleman--His -Story--General Remarks concerning the different classes of Women 36 - - -CHAPTER IV. - -SAN FRANCISCO. - -Importance of San Francisco--The Golden Gate--The Harbor--Long Wharf--A -Motley Crowd--The Shipping--Names of Vessels--Vagrant Boys--Commercial -Street--Wooden Tenements--The Jews--Fire-proof brick and stone -structures--Montgomery street--Menial Employments--Professional Men -washing dishes, waiting upon the table, and peddling shrimps and -tomcods--Lawyers and Land Titles--Grog Shops and Tippling Houses--Bill -of Fare of a California Groggery 45 - - -CHAPTER V. - -SAN FRANCISCO--CONTINUED. - -Clay street--Gazing in Ladies’ Faces--The Gambling -Houses--Heterogeneous Assemblage of Blacklegs--The Plaza--The City -Hall--A Case of Bribery and Corruption--French Restaurants--Flour and -other Provisions--Frauds and Adulterations 69 - - -CHAPTER VI. - -SAN FRANCISCO--CONCLUDED. - -A Pistol Gallery--Doctor Natchez--Population of the City--Filling in -the Bay--Lack of Vegetation--Yearning for the society of Trees 81 - - -CHAPTER VII. - -THE CHINESE IN CALIFORNIA. - -National habits and traits of Chinese Character--Their Dress--The -number of Chinese in California--How they employ their time--Their -arrogance and presumption--Manner of Eating--Singularity of their -names--Is the Chinese Immigration desirable? 86 - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -CURSORY VIEWS. - -The Pacific Side of the Continent much Inferior to the Atlantic -Side--Poverty and Suffering in California--Rash and mistaken ideas of -the country--A few very Fertile Valleys--Value of the Precious Metals -to the country in which they are found--The Climate 97 - - -CHAPTER IX. - -SUNDAY IN CALIFORNIA. - -Manner of Spending the Sabbath--Mixture and Dissimilarity of the -Population--Dance Houses--Mexican Women--Influence of Female Society -upon the Community--Churches in San Francisco 109 - - -CHAPTER X. - -BEAR AND BULL FIGHT. - -Advertisement announcing the Sport--Mission Dolores--An old Catholic -Church--Preparation for the Fight--The Audience--The Attack--Progress -of the Conflict--The Finale 116 - - -CHAPTER XI. - -SACRAMENTO. - -City and Valley of Sacramento--The Legislature--Shabby -Hotels--Teamsters and Muleteers--Excess of Merchants--Continual -Depression in Business--Perfidy and Dishonesty of -Consignees--California Conflagrations--The Three Cent -Philosopher 131 - - -CHAPTER XII. - -YUBA--THE MINER’S TENT. - -Trip to the Mines--Modus Operandi of Single-handed Mining--Names -of Bars--Mining Laws--More Gentility and Nobleness of Soul among -the Miners than any other Class of People in California--The case -of a Highwayman--Description of a Miner’s Tent--His Diet and -Cooking Utensils--Toilsomeness of Mining--Proceeds of three months’ -labor 147 - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -STOCKTON AND SONORA. - -Situation of Stockton--The San Joaquin Valley--Trip to Sonora--The best -Hotel in the Place--A Lunatic--A Gambling Prodigy--Shooting Affair--A -case of Lynch Law--Description of Sonora--Land Speculators--Ephemeral -Cities--Excitability of the Californians--The Beard--A good old -Man--His Story 161 - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA VIA CAPE HORN. - -Embarkation from New York--A Terrible Storm--Loss of Masts -and narrow escape from Shipwreck--Wreck of a Swedish Brig--An -unfortunate Little Bird--Patagonia and Cape Horn--Stoppage at -Valparaiso--Earthquakes--Appearance of the City--A Delectable -Garden--Two Catholic Priests--Beauty of Ocean Scenery in the -Pacific--The St. Felix Islands--Arrival in San Francisco 187 - - -CHAPTER XV. - -VOYAGE FROM CALIFORNIA VIA NICARAGUA. - -Departure from San Francisco--Matters and Things aboard the -Steamer--The Passengers--A Hoax--Arrival at San Juan del Sur--Novel -Mode of Debarkation--Ludicrous Scenes--Trip across the Country--The -Weather--Virgin Bay--Lake Nicaragua--The San Juan River--Bad Management -and shabby Treatment on the Isthmus--Negro Slavery and Central -America--San Juan del Norte, alias Greytown 209 - - -CHAPTER XVI. - -MY LAST MINING ADVENTURE. - -Projected Voyage to Australia abandoned--Trip to the Mines in Tuolumne -county--My quaint Friend and Companion, Mr. Shad Back--Operations in -Columbia--The Result 225 - - -CHAPTER XVII. - -THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEE. - -Disordered State of Society--Atrocious and barefaced -Crimes--Organization of Vigilance Committees--Salutary effect of their -Proceedings--Defence of their Motives and Actions--A case of Lynch Law -in Sacramento 237 - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - -BODEGA. - -Trip to Bodega on a Mischievous and Refractory Mule--A Chinese -Encampment--Description of the country in the vicinity of Bodega--The -Village of Petaluma--Cruel Treatment of an Indian Boy--Serious -Consequences result from the villainous Pranks of his Muleship--Ben, an -eccentric old Negro 254 - - -CHAPTER XIX. - -THE DIGGER INDIANS AND NEGROES. - -Indolence and Insignificance of the Digger Indians--What they -eat--Means of obtaining the Necessaries of Life--Their Habits and -Peculiarities--An Incident at a Slaughterhouse--The Negroes in -California--The case of a New Orleans Sea-captain and his Slave Joe--A -North Carolinian and his two Negroes 268 - - -CHAPTER XX. - -ARE YOU GOING TO CALIFORNIA? - -Resume of the preceding chapters--Arguments in favor of the Atlantic -and Pacific Railway--Advantages of the Southern Route--Abstract of -the Report of the Secretary of War on the several Pacific Railroad -Explorations--Extracts from Letters--Conclusion 280 - - - - -THE LAND OF GOLD. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -CALIFORNIA UNVEILED. - - -An intelligent and patriotic curiosity will find the history of few -countries more interesting than that of California--which has at length -realized those dreams of El Dorado that beguiled so many an early -adventurer from the comforts and bliss of his fireside, to delude and -destroy him. The marshes of the Orinoco, the Keys of Florida, and the -hills of Mexico cover the bones of many of these original speculators in -the minerals of the Western World. They sought wealth, and found graves. -How many of the modern devotees of Mammon have done better in our newly -opened land of gold? - -To explain the causes of the frequent disappointment of these cherished -hopes; to determine the true value of this modern El Dorado; to exhibit -the prominent features of California and its principal cities, -particularly San Francisco, and thus to enable those who still encourage -golden dreams to form a proper estimate of their chances of success, -without submitting to the painful teachings of experience--these have -been the motives which have actuated the author of the present work. - -The less to weary the reader, the book has been broken up into chapters, -in which the author proposes to discourse familiarly upon what he has -seen and felt, as he would in a friendly letter, rather than to write a -formal essay or treatise upon California. In pursuing this plan, it is -his intention to confine himself exclusively to facts, and to describe -those facts as clearly as possible, so as to leave no ground for a -conjectural filling up of those outlines which his negligence may have -left vague and indistinct. - -In this country, where almost every event that occurs is as momentous -and unaccountable as the wonderful exploits of Habib’s and Aladdin’s -genii, to deal with any thing aside from actual matters of fact, is at -once as silly and profitless a business as that of whistling against the -winds. Yet, in nine-tenths of the descriptions of life and times in -California, truth and facts have been set aside, and the writers, -instead of confining themselves to a faithful delineation of that which -actually exists, have made astonishing and unwarranted drafts upon -their imaginations. Instead of detailing facts, they have written -fictions; instead of making a true record, they have interwoven -falsehoods with the very web of their story. They have chronicled dreams -instead of realities, and have registered vagaries as actual events and -undeniable certainties. But they have themselves been deceived. They -have been duped in listening to the delusive whispers of mischievous -sirens, whose flattering suggestions and plausible stories have had such -a magical influence upon their excited minds, that they have become -accustomed to consider every thought of wealth that occurs to them a -veritable mountain of gold;--that is to say, they have, by some strange -hallucination, been converted to the belief that whatever California -ought to be for their own particular ends and interests, it really is. -In the night-time they have arranged and matured prodigious plans of -profit, and although many days have dawned upon them since, that time -has yet to come which shall reveal to them the utter nothingness of -their nocturnal reveries. But the day will come, and it is fast -approaching, when the spell must be broken. The iron utensils, which -have been transmuted into golden urns and palaces night after night, -shall once and for ever resume their true quality at the approach of -day. The spell-bound shall be freed! The reverie shall be dissipated, -the false wealth analyzed, and resolved into its component parts; and -when these things are done, California will be seen in its true light. -Then the eyes of the people will be opened. The golden haze which has -hung over this land of romantic hopes and deadly disappointments will -then be rolled away, and the clear, naked sunlight of Truth will shine -upon this ugly cheat, revealing it in all its naked deformity to the -eyes of the abused and misinformed public. Then, and not till then, will -the full extent of popular delusion on this topic be known, and this -mighty genie collapse into its original caldron. - -The truth is, California has been much overrated and much overdone. She -has been pressed beyond her limits and capacities. Her managers have -been rash, prodigal and incompetent, and they have embarrassed her -beyond hope of relief--though, it must be acknowledged, her condition -was never very hopeful, but, on the contrary, I may say with the poet, -she was only “half made up.” It is plain to be seen that she was never -finished. She has never paid for herself. An overwhelming public debt -now rests upon her shoulders, and she has nothing to show for it. She is -bankrupt. Her resources are being rapidly exhausted, and there is but -lank promise in the future. Her spacious harbors and geographical -position are her true wealth; her gold fields and arid hills are her -poverty. But commodious and safe as are her harbors when once entered, -they are not the easiest nor safest of access in the world, as I shall -hereafter prove by statistics of vessels wrecked upon this coast within -the last six years. And, before I finish, I shall offer other -statistical information of interest and importance relative to the State -at large, in substantiation as well of what I have already said as of -that which I have yet to say. I may remark here that, my curiosity -having led me to collect and prepare these statistics with no little -care and attention, and at no trifling sacrifice of time and means, they -may be relied upon as correct. - -A residence of nearly three years, during which time I have traveled -over a wide extent of those parts of the State which are most highly -esteemed for agriculture and minerals, has, I claim, enabled me to -arrive at a pretty accurate estimate of her character and capacities; -and I have no hesitation in avowing it as my candid opinion (and I have -not been a very inattentive observer) that, balancing resource against -defect, and comparing territory with territory, California is the -poorest State in the Union. She has little to recommend her except her -fascinating metal, the acquisition of which, however, in its first or -natural state, seems always to require a greater sacrifice of moral and -physical wealth than a single exchange of it afterwards can possibly -restore. I know it has been published to the world that this country -possesses extraordinary agricultural abilities; but this is an assertion -wholly gratuitous, and not susceptible of demonstration. Taken -altogether, it is no such thing. Some of her valleys are, indeed, -exceedingly fertile; but, when we compare their superficies with the -area of the State, we find they are but as oases in a desert. I -seriously believe that a fair and thorough trial will show that she has -more than three times as much sterile land, in proportion to her -territory, than any of her sister States. On an average, a square rood -of Carolina earth contains as much fertilizing nutriment as an acre of -California soil. Comparatively speaking, she has neither season nor -soil. - -No rain falls between the first of April and the middle of November, in -consequence of which the earth becomes so dry and hard that nothing will -grow; and the small amount of grass, weeds, or other vegetation that may -have shot up in the spring, is parched by the scorching sun until it is -rendered as easy of ignition as prepared fuel. The valleys above -mentioned are the only spots exempt from this curse. On the other hand, -from the first of December to the last of March it rains, as a general -thing, so copiously and incessantly, that all out-door avocations must -be suspended; and as there is no mechanical or in-door labor, either of -use or profit, to be performed, the people are subjected to the -disagreeable and expensive task of idling away their time in hotels and -restaurants, at the rate of from two to three dollars per day for board -alone, other expenses being in the same ratio. More of the disadvantages -of this unfortunate inconsistency of the seasons, and of the paucity of -resources of employment here, will be noticed as we proceed. As for the -valleys we have spoken of, they will afford a sufficient supply of -breadstuffs to support sparse settlements, but the average or general -surface of the country is incapable of sustaining a dense population. - -If we inquire after the manufacturing and mechanical resources of the -State, we will find that she has none whatever; in this respect she is -as destitute as the aboriginal settlements of America. Nor can she -establish, encourage or maintain these arts, for the reason that she -would be under the necessity of importing, not only the machinery and -raw materials, but also the fuel. She could not, therefore, compete with -neighboring States, which have at least some of these indispensable -requisites. Nor has she any advantages or facilities for either water or -steam power. How, then, can she obtain a reputation for manufactures and -mechanism, having neither the material to work, nor the force or means -to work with? She has neither cotton nor flax, coal nor timber. She is -rich in nothing, and poor in every thing. She has to import every thing -she uses, but has nothing to export, except her gold, which, instead of -being a blessing to her, is a curse. Even the ground she cultivates she -has to inclose with imported fencing wire, not having timber suitable -for railing or paling purposes. That which is esteemed her chief -treasure, dependence and commodity, gold, seems to be the least -subservient to her advancement and prosperity; for, comparatively -speaking, she sends it all away, and retains none for home use or -convenience; and thus it is that she has, in a measure, been a benefit -to others, while she has blindly and foolishly impoverished herself. In -this she has acted upon the principle of the cobbler, whose shoes are -ever tattered, and of the blacksmith, whose horses always go unshod. - -But this profuse exportation of gold is significant of another important -fact, while at the same time it demonstrates what I have said above. It -shows conclusively that there is no inducement to invest capital -permanently in this country, either in the prosecution of business or in -the establishment of homes or residences. Immigrants find neither beauty -nor gain to hold them here; and I feel warranted in venturing the -assertion that not more than ten per cent. of the population are -satisfied to remain. Of the other ninety per cent., the bodies only -subsist here--their hearts abide in better climes; and they are -anxiously waiting and wishing for the time when they shall have an -opportunity of releasing themselves from the golden fetters which detain -them, and escaping from a country which, with all its wealth, is to them -a dreary prison. Only a small minority of the few who are lucky enough, -by fair means or foul, to accumulate fortune or competence, are induced -to identify their lives and interests with the country. - -But the women are almost unanimous in their determination not to make -California any thing more than a temporary residence; and they have good -reasons for this resolution. Besides the social depravity to which I -shall presently allude, and which is sufficient to shock the -sensibilities of any _man_ of ordinary morality, there are hosts of -minor annoyances, resulting from the climate and the geographical -position of the country, that inflict peculiar pain upon female -sensibilities. The mud, which is often knee-deep, keeps them imprisoned -all the winter; while, in summer, the dust, as fine as flour and as -abundant as earth itself, stifles the inhabitants, fills the houses, -penetrates into every nook and corner, finds its way even into the inner -drawers and chests, soils the wardrobe, spoils the furniture, and -sullies every thing. Besides, California is especially infested with -vermin. Fleas, ants, and all sorts of creeping things are as ubiquitous -as those that tormented Pharaoh and his people, and quite as annoying. -No house is free from them, no one can escape the perpetual martyrdom of -their stings, or the annoyance of their presence. As the ladies are the -special sufferers from these abominable little nuisances, their -unanimous dislike of the country is not at all to be wondered at. In -proof of this unanimity, I can only offer the fact that, in conversation -with quite a number of women who have resided in this State, I have yet -to meet with one who is willing to make it her permanent abode. - -We have alluded to the winds, because they really are a peculiar feature -in the meteorology of this State. In the summer time they blow with -peculiar violence, and facilitate the spread of the great fires from -which California has suffered so much. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -THE BALANCE-SHEET. - - -Let us now take a glance at the _pros_ and _cons_ of California in -statistical form. I have said that the State is bankrupt, that she has -never returned an equivalent for the labor and money invested in her, -and that she has been represented to be a great deal more than she is in -reality--all of which I now reiterate, and shall endeavor to -demonstrate. To make out a perfect and complete account-current, or -balance-sheet, exhibiting the State’s entire gains and losses of time, -labor, life, money, etc., would require such a profound knowledge of -financial affairs, and of political economy, that it would puzzle Adam -Smith himself; we will not, therefore, attempt accuracy or exactness, -but, having sufficient data to sustain us in our position, we will -proceed to make it known. - -Without charging California with any of the enormous expenses of the -Mexican war, or the check given to the increase of population which that -war occasioned, we will simply make her debtor for the amount of -purchase-money that was paid for her, and for the various sums it has -cost to control, manage and maintain her since. And, to avoid that -complication and multiplicity of entries that would inevitably result -from an introduction of all the individuals, parties or countries that -have had dealings with the State, and as a matter of convenience, we -will assume that there shall be but two parties recognized in the -transaction, one of debit and one of credit--California and the United -States. This will be treating the subject as a matter of dollars and -cents, and will enable us to see how much has been made or lost, as the -case may be, out of this Eureka venture or speculation. - -In the first place, then, California is debtor to the United States for -her quota of the amount of purchase-money paid to Mexico for herself and -for New Mexico, including contingent fund absorbed by Mexican claimants, -as per agreement at the treaty of Guadaloupe Hidalgo, $10,000,000. In -the next place, let us see how much she is indebted to the United States -for labor. At the present time, her population is estimated at about two -hundred and fifty thousand. It is but little greater now than it was in -1849. In ’51 and ’52 it was larger than it was or has been at any -preceding or subsequent period. It would probably be fair to estimate -the average population at two hundred and fifty thousand for the last -six years; of this number, it is supposed that from thirty to -thirty-five thousand are women and children, who have become residents -of the State within the last three or four years. Admitting, then, that -there are thirty-five thousand women and children, and deducting this -number from two hundred and fifty thousand, we have a balance of two -hundred and fifteen thousand men, whose service for six years, at say -$225 per annum for each man, amounts to $290,230,000. The outfits and -passage of these men--to say nothing of the women and children--cost, at -the lowest calculation, $200 per head; so we find that the expense of -transporting the actual laborers alone has been at least $43,000,000. We -may afford to let this latter amount rest as it is; but when we take -into consideration the fact that the steamers are continually crowded -with persons returning from California, and that their places are filled -by new emigrants, who have to purchase new passage-tickets and new -outfits, it is quite obvious that the figures express much less than the -real amount. The above sums added together constitute the United States’ -charge against California. We will add them together, and then compare -the total sum with the amount of gold that has been produced in -California. - -Original cost of the country $10,000,000 -Labor 290,230,000 -Outfits and transportation 43,000,000 - ----------- - Grand total $343,130,000 - -Thus we see California is debtor to the United States three hundred and -forty-three millions two hundred and thirty thousand dollars. Now let us -examine the account which California brings as an offset to this amount. -The entire yield of the mines up to the present time, January, 1855, has -been about two hundred and forty-five millions of dollars. And this is -all. We cannot credit her with any thing else that would not be -equipoised or balanced by the capital, whether owned or borrowed, -brought hither from various parts of the world, and invested in business -and improvements, and about which nothing has been said in the bill of -charges. Here, then, is the sum and substance of the whole matter: - -The United States account against California. $343,230,000 -California’s account against the United States. 245,000,000 - ---------- - Deficit. $98,230,000 - -And now let us see how much money has been lost in and about California -by casualties, accidents and mismanagement. The reader shall judge -whether any part of the amount should be charged to the State. As for -us, we shall simply feel it our duty to furnish the statistics. In -regard to the expenses of Fremont’s Battalion, of the Army of Occupation -in ’47 and ’48, and of the wars since waged against the -Indians--amounting in all to several millions of dollars, we will say -nothing. - - -In the annexed table is an account of the various fires that have -occurred throughout the State. It will be perceived that the date of -occurrence and amount of property destroyed are both given. - - -FIRES IN CALIFORNIA. - -Fire in San Francisco, December 24, 1849 $1,000,000 - “ “ May 4, 1850 3,500,000 - “ “ June 14, 1850 3,000,000 - “ “ September 17, 1850 450,000 - “ “ December 14, 1850 1,000,000 - “ “ May 3, 1851 12,000,000 - “ “ June 22, 1851 3,000,000 - “ “ November 9, 1852 125,000 - “ “ Sundry fires in 1853 265,000 -Fire in Sacramento, November 2, 1852 10,000,000 - “ Sonora, June 18, 1852 2,500,000 - “ “ October 14, 1853 300,000 - “ “ November 2, 1853 50,000 - “ Stockton, May 6, 1851 3,000,000 - “ Marysville, August 30, 1851 500,000 - “ “ September 10, 1851 80,000 - “ “ November 7, 1852 150,000 - “ Shasta, February 8, 1853 225,000 - “ Nevada, March 10, 1851 200,000 - “ Weaverville, March 7, 1853 125,000 -Sundry fires in different parts of the State, - dates unobtainable 4,400,000 - ---------- - $45,870,000 - -Freshets and inundations, in the Sacramento and San - Joaquin valleys, have swept off or destroyed one - million five hundred thousand dollars worth of - property within the last six years $1,500,000 - -The following sailing vessels and steamers have been wrecked upon the -coast within the same period: - - -SAILING VESSELS--SOME WITH CARGOES. - -Ship Tonquin--December, 1849 } - “ Crownprincessen--February, 1850 } - “ Utica--July, 1850 } - “ Somerset--December, 1850 } - “ Oxford--July, 1852 } - “ Aberdeen--July, 1853 }$2,300,000 - “ Carrier Pigeon--June, 1853 } - “ Eclipse--October, 1853 } - “ Jenny Lind--December, 1853 } - “ San Francisco--February, 1854 } - - -STEAMERS. - -Commodore Preble--May 3, 1850 $ 50,000 -Union--July 5, 1851 150,000 -Chesapeake--October, 1851 50,000 -Sea Gull--January 26, 1852 50,000 -Gen. Warren--January 31, 1852 50,000 -North America--February 27, 1852 150,000 -Pioneer--August 17, 1852 250,000 -City of Pittsburg--October 24, 1852 250,000 -Independence--February 16, 1853 70,000 -Tennessee--March 6, 1853 300,000 -S. S. Lewis--April 9, 1853 150,000 -Washington--1853 40,000 -Commodore Stockton--1852 60,000 -Winfield Scott--December 2, 1853 290,000 -Sundry steamers and sailers, the names of which have - been misplaced 850,000 - --------- - $2,760,000 - -The present public debt of the State--entailed upon the - people by one of the most imbecile and dissolute - legislatures that were ever assembled in an enlightened - country--is three millions of dollars $3,000,000 - -The debts of the three principal cities are as follows: - The total amount of the indebtedness of San Francisco - is $3,342,000. The debt of the city of Sacramento - amounts to $1,500,000. The entire debt of - the city of Marysville amounts to over $70,000 $4,912,000 - ----------- - Total $60,342,000 - - -RECAPITULATION. - -Fires $45,870,000 -Freshets 1,500,000 -Shipping 5,060,000 -State debt 3,000,000 -City debt 4,912,000 - ----------- - $60,342,000 - -These figures show the amount of property that has been destroyed, or -the amount of losses that have been sustained in California, by -accidents, mishaps and mismanagement, within the last six years. I will, -moreover, give a list of lives lost by violent measures during the same -period: - -Murders 4,200 -Suicides 1,400 -Insanity, (produced by disappointment and misfortune) 1,700 -Wrecked and perished on the way per sailing vessels and - steamers 2,200 -Killed by Indians and died of starvation per overland route 1,600 -Perished in the mines and mountains of the State for want - of medical attention and food, and by the hands of the - Indians 5,300 - ------ - Total 16,400 - -It may be urged that the State ought not to be held accountable for any -number of these sixteen thousand four hundred unfortunates, who, for -the lack of law and order in a majority of the cases, lost their lives -by violent means. We leave the question entirely with the reader. It may -also be urged that the State ought not to be charged with any part of -the extraordinary losses by fire and shipwreck, notwithstanding foreign -capitalists were the principal sufferers in both cases. This question we -also submit to the decision of the reader. - -But I deem it unnecessary to dwell on this part of my subject. In -presenting the foregoing calculations, it has been my aim to show that -California is a country of unparalleled casualties and catastrophes, and -to direct attention to the immense losses which have been sustained in -opening its mines of wealth. A large number of people, it seems, have -got into the habit of estimating the gains without taking into -consideration the cost or losses at all; and there are those, no doubt, -who will attempt to find fault with the account which I have drawn up -between California and the United States. Though that account is in the -main correct, I admit that slight errors may here and there exist; for, -as I remarked at the outset, the debits and credits are so numerous, and -of such an intricate nature, that it would be impossible to arrive at -the exact amounts without the greatest research and elaboration. If I -have succeeded in undeceiving those who have heretofore regarded -California as an unincumbered God-send, my object has been attained. I -have endeavored to show that, though there has been a great deal of gold -obtained in the country, it is not all clear gain, and that -notwithstanding there are large deposits of pure metal, there are also -huge masses of dross. Shallow enthusiasts have asserted that the United -States would have become bankrupt two or three years ago, had it not -been for the discovery of gold in California. A more preposterous -opinion was never entertained. Equally as much wisdom might be found in -the assertion that Great Britain would have been sold by the sheriff, if -gold had not been discovered in Australia. As a further proof of the -beggarly condition of the country, it may not be amiss to remark that, -during the last session of Congress, the general government appropriated -upwards of four millions of dollars for the relief and benefit of -California; and her senators and representatives are still clamoring for -additional favors. - -For the benefit of the reader, and in confirmation of statements made in -this chapter relative to the past and present of California, I give the -following extract from the _Louisville Journal_, to which my attention -has been called since the foregoing calculations and statistics were -prepared. - - -COST OF CALIFORNIA GOLD. - -“For the information of those persons who believe that the United States -thus far have been benefited by the discovery of gold in California, we -propose to submit a few remarks and calculations. - -“After the close of the Mexican war and the cession by treaty to us of -Upper California, the world was astonished by the announcement, toward -the close of 1848 or the beginning of 1849, that immense deposits of -gold had been discovered in that country. As soon as the truth of this -report was established, vast numbers of persons, young and old, flocked -to that country. There was a perfect stampede of people from every State -in the Union. Property was sacrificed to raise money with which to reach -this Eldorado, where fortunes for all were supposed to be awaiting the -mere effort to gather them. The first injurious effect on the country -was the sudden withdrawal of so much labor from the channels of -production; it was mainly, too, that description most needed here--that -is, agricultural labor. - -“We are not in possession of the statistics requisite to determine with -exactness the number of persons who have been taken from the old States -and have gone to California. The population of that State now exceeds -two hundred thousand. But as there is a constant stream of people -always _in transitu_, either going to or leaving that country, the -number of people withdrawn from the business of productive labor largely -exceeds the population of that State. It is not our purpose to -over-estimate the amount of labor that has been withdrawn from the old -States, but we feel satisfied that it will be under rather than over the -mark to say that from 1849 to 1854, each year inclusive, there has been -an average of 150,000 persons who have been during that time either in -California or on their way going or returning. The time is six years for -150,000 persons, or one year for 900,000 persons. - -“Now, if we estimate the average value of this labor at $25 per month -each, or $300 per year, we have ($270,000,000) two hundred and seventy -millions of dollars as the value of the labor taken from the eastern -side of the Rocky Mountains and placed on its western side. In addition -to this, it cost on an average $200 per head as the expenses of the -removal from one country to the other. This makes ($180,000,000) one -hundred and eighty millions of dollars as the cost of removal. The sums -together make the sum total of ($450,000,000) four hundred and fifty -millions of dollars drained from the eastern side of the United States. -To ascertain the amount of the gold obtained from that country, we -propose to take the gold coinage of the mint. This coinage was in-- - -1849 $ 9,007,761 -1850 31,981,738 -1851 62,614,492 -1852 56,846,187 -1853 46,998,945 -1854, estimated 42,000,000 - ------------ - Total coinage $249,349,123 - -“As these figures make the sum total of _all_ the gold coined at the -mint, and a portion of it is known to have been obtained from other -sources than California, the credit will rather be in excess than too -small; but still we propose to add to this amount twenty millions more -as an allowance for unminted gold sold to workers in jewelry and plate -and which has been consumed in the arts. The statement will then stand -thus: - - CALIFORNIA, Dr. -To labor and outfits $ 450,000,000 -Credit by product of gold coin and nature 269,349,223 - ------------ - Dr. balance $ 180,650,877 - -“_This shows that there is a balance due us in lost labor and capital of -over one hundred and eighty millions of dollars._ - -“So far as California is concerned, it is probable that this deficiency -is replaced there by the value of property, real and personal, which the -labor taken from this region of country has produced there. - -“The injurious effect of this vast emigration has been felt in the undue -stimulus it has given to the prices of produce, induced by diminished -production and increased demand. - -“Another bad effect of this gold crop has been the influence it has -exerted in stimulating excessive importations of foreign goods, In the -last six years the imports will exceed the exports three hundred and -three millions of dollars. Commencing in 1849 with an import trade of -only seven millions of nominal balance against this country, it rapidly -increased, until, in each of the past two years, it has exceeded sixty -millions of dollars.” - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -SOCIETY IN CALIFORNIA. - - -Having looked into the financial condition of California, let us now -briefly consider the moral and religious state of its society, We know -that we are undertaking an ungrateful and painful task--that we shall -awaken the animosity of those who have an interest in enticing settlers -to this golden region--that we shall provoke contradiction, and probably -excite controversy; but we beseech Heaven to pardon us for speaking the -truth, and challenge our antagonists to disprove our statements. - -We cannot, indeed, pretend to disclose all the terrible iniquity of that -society in the compass of a single chapter--the theme is too extensive, -the facts too revolting. It requires space to unfold the scroll which -records such damning facts--it needs time for the mind to become -sufficiently reconciled to the hideous details, to be able to listen to -them without impatience or disgust. We can, at present, do no more than -open the way for a fuller exposition of the subject in subsequent -chapters. Suffice it to say that we know of no country in which there is -so much corruption, villainy, outlawry, intemperance, licentiousness, -and every variety of crime, folly and meanness. Words fail us to express -the shameful depravity and unexampled turpitude of California society. - -How much of this is attributable to the metal which attracts the -population, we leave others to determine. One thing, however, is -certain; mining districts do not generally enjoy a very enviable -reputation in any part of the world. Gold, especially, is thought to be -so easily accessible, and the return of the miner’s labor is so -immediately visible, that it has ever attracted the most unthrifty and -dissolute. Men who could not be induced to work at any thing else, will -spend days and weeks delving for the precious bane, hoping against hope, -and laboring with an eager energy which nothing else can excite, and -almost any thing else would more surely reward. Hence, the immediate -neighborhood of a gold-mine is too liable to be a sink for all the -idleness and depravity of the surrounding country. How these evils are -multiplied by the absence of individual proprietorship in the land, and -by the remoteness of a mining district from the beneficial restraints of -public opinion, any one who gives a moment’s consideration to the -subject will perceive. - -The exclusive devotion of labor to this one pursuit is another cause of -increased laxity of morals. In the Atlantic States, gold-mining is only -a branch of industry, and not a very important one, compared with the -other pursuits of the population; but in California it is the chief and -almost the only occupation of the inhabitants of the mining districts; -so that while, in the former place, the general virtue of the people -keeps in check the particular vices of the miner, in the latter, the -good intentions of the few are overruled and stifled by the vices of the -many. - -We must not, however, commit the mistake of supposing that all the -depravity of California is attributable to the nature of its industrial -pursuits. This is but one of the elements which assist in producing the -deplorable state of affairs under consideration. There are others which -spring from the character of the people, and the circumstances which -have brought them together. - -It must be borne in mind that all the adventurers to this country have -come for the express purpose of making money, and that to this end every -other consideration is sacrificed. They have come to “put money in their -purses,” and as a large majority of them are of a class who are rarely -troubled by any qualms of conscience, they are determined to do it at -all hazards. Mammon is their god, and they will worship him. - -If it be deemed desirable to make further inquiries into this state of -things, it is only necessary to philosophize a little upon the physical -structure of society. A single glance at it will suffice to convince the -most superficial observer that its ingredients cannot be compounded into -a harmonious, perfect and complete whole. Will a panther from America, a -bear from Europe, a tiger from Asia, and a lion from Africa, organize in -peace and good feeling around the body of a fresh slain deer? If not, -will the Americans, English, French, Germans, Chinese, Indians, Negroes, -and half-breeds, greet each other cordially over a gold mine? These are -problems which those who have leisure may solve as their reason -dictates. In the present case, it is more my province to relate the -condition of things, than to account for their existence; yet, in -preparing statements upon a variety of intricate subjects, owing -sometimes to the difficulty of making one’s self understood, it is both -consistent and proper that, now and then, a few remarks in the way of -explanation should be given. - -Another very important cause of this wild excitement, degeneracy, -dissipation, and deplorable condition of affairs, may be found in the -disproportion of the sexes--in the scarcity of women. At present, there -is only about one woman to every ten or twelve men, and the result is -what might be expected. The women are persecuted by the insulting -attentions of the men, and too often fall victims to the arts of their -seducers. Nowhere is the sanctity of the domestic hearth so ruthlessly -violated as in California. For proof of this, we need look no further -than the records of the courts of San Francisco, which show that, in the -course of a single week, no less than ten divorces had been granted, -while, during the same time, only two marriages had been solemnized! - -Not long since, an English gentleman, of whom myself and others had -purchased some real estate in this city, came to me, requesting that, -inasmuch as his wife had left him the day before, we would not let her -have any money on his account. After finishing his business -instructions, he gave us the following history. Listen to it. Said he: -“Four years ago, myself and wife, and six other men with their wives, -came together in one vessel to this country. Shortly after our arrival, -family feuds and jealousies became rife in the domestic circle of one of -the parties. The man and his wife separated. Soon their example was -followed by another couple, and another, and so on, until all the -marriage ties of our company were broken, except those that happily -existed between myself and wife. Left alone thus, and having been true -to each other so long, and through so many opposing circumstances, I -cherished the hope that we might remain together, and be true to the -end. But, alas! my fond thoughts and anticipations have proved a sickly -dream. My hopes have been blasted, my happiness wrecked, and my children -disgraced and deserted. My wife, whom I loved and held dearer than all -else on earth, the partner of my life, has been basely seduced. The last -link that bound the remnant of our seven families together has been -severed, and the consequence is, we are a disbanded and disreputable -people. Cursed be the day and the incentive that started me to this -damnable country!” These were his own words, almost verbatim; and he -uttered them as if partly speaking to himself, and partly addressing me. - -The total disregard of the marriage tie by the majority of the men of -California puts the husband, who is foolish enough to take his wife with -him to that county, in a painful and embarrassing position. Should the -wife be pretty, she is the more liable to the persecution of attentions -which will shock her if she be virtuous, and flatter her into sin if she -is not. She is surrounded at once by hosts of men, who spare neither -money, time, nor art to win her affections from her husband. What wonder -if they often succeed? - -Female virtue or chastity, in the conventional sense of the word, is -known to every one, who is familiar with the internal history of -society, to be a very complex idea. There are women who are chaste only -for want of the opportunity to be otherwise. There are others who are -kept chaste by the force of public opinion, the dread of exposure, and -the general fear of consequences; while a third class preserve their -persons untainted by an innate purity of soul, which shrinks -instinctively from all indelicacy, and feels contaminated by an unclean -thought, and degraded by a lustful look. It is not our business to -inquire into the relative proportion of women embraced in these three -classes. It is enough to know that they exist, to appreciate the effect -which the society of California will exert upon them. - -As for the first class, it is not necessary to speak of them. They -fulfil their shameful destiny every where, and California only ripens -their depravity a little earlier. It is the second class who suffer -chiefly from the peculiar moral atmosphere of the land of gold. In the -Atlantic States, hedged in by a healthy public opinion, guarded by -jealous laws, flattered into chastity by the respectful attentions which -that virtue ever commands, they might retain to their dying day that -physical purity which satisfies the great majority of husbands. In -California, however, these restraints are all removed. Public opinion -arrays itself on the side of vice; the laws are powerless to punish the -sins of impurity; and all the attentions the women receive are based -upon the hope of their ultimate fall. How are such women to resist? Cut -loose at once from all those restraints which kept them in the right -way, will they not dart off into the devious paths of error and of sin? -It is impossible that it should be otherwise; and the man who would keep -faithful to himself a wife of this type in California, must have wealth -enough to gratify her most extravagant whims, time to devote exclusively -to watching her, eyes keener than those of Argus, and cunning sharper -than that of Vidocq. - -The third class--of whom, I regret to say, I have met with but few in -the Eureka State--have also peculiar trials to undergo. Society in that -country is a reproduction, on a large scale, of the morals of the courts -of Charles II of England and Louis XV of France. Vice only is esteemed -and lauded, virtue is treated as an idle dream, an insulting pretence of -superiority, or a stupid folly beneath the notice of men of sense. -People do not believe in it--they scorn it, they insult it; they -consider it a mere avaricious attempt to dispose of venal charms above -their market value, so that the chaste woman has not only to suffer the -persecution of insulting proposals, but the doubt of that virtue which -repels her pursuers, and the sneers and scandal of a depraved and -debased community. - -Many women, of conceded respectability in California, seem to have come -out there for the exclusive purpose of selling their charms to the -highest bidder. Others, of more honest hearts, have fallen victims to -the peculiar seductions of the place, but I must be allowed to pay a -tribute to the sex, even in this its degenerate condition. Paradoxical -as the statement may sound, it is rigorously true that these very women -have improved the morals of the community. Any one who, like myself, has -had the opportunity of seeing California before and after the advent of -these women, must have been struck with the decided improvement in -society since their arrival. They have undoubtedly banished much -barbarism, softened many hard hearts, and given a gentleness to the men -which they did not possess before. What, then, might we not expect from -an influx of the chaste wives and tender mothers that bless our other -sea-board? - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -SAN FRANCISCO. - - -We will now pay our respects to the occidental metropolis of the United -States, sometimes honored with the title of the Queen City of the -Pacific. - -It has not been more truthfully remarked that Paris is France, than that -San Francisco is California. This is the grand mart in which all the -travel, news, capital, business, and, in fact, every species of interest -or employment that belongs to the State is concentrated--the nucleus -around which every plan and project must first be developed before it -can receive life, vigor, system and order. It is the fountain-head of -all the tributaries of trade and traffic that flow through the -State--the great trestle-board or chart of operations to which all the -journeymen repair for designs and instructions to pursue their labors. -It is the supreme tribunal and regulator of affairs--the heart, the -life, and the stay of the State. Contrary to the general rule, in this -case the city supports the country, instead of the country nurturing and -sustaining the city; and this will continue to be the case so long as -the country is under the necessity of importing whatever she requires -for use. Until she becomes the producer of the bulk or major part of -that which she consumes, San Francisco will retain this ascendency. -Every important movement, whether of a public, private, political or -commercial character, receives its impetus from this point; and owing to -its advantageous geographical position, and the facilities and -accommodation offered for shipping, I think it may be safely said that -San Francisco will be a great city, although California can never become -a great State. - -In order to particularize a little, and to furnish the reader with a -more systematic idea of the city, we will imagine ourselves in a vessel, -some distance at sea, approaching the coast of California in about the -lat. of 37° 45´ N. and lon. 122° 25´ W. This will bring us to the Golden -Gate, the entrance to the harbor. This entrance is a narrow outlet, -through which at least seven-eighths of the entire waters of the State -find their way into the Pacific ocean. It can be so thoroughly fortified -that no maritime expedition could ever force its way through it. - -Passing through the Gate, we enter the bay, and find it to be one of the -largest and finest in the world, dotted with several small islands, and -abounding in excellent fish of every variety. Soon we arrive at Long -Wharf; the steamer is run alongside, and we are in the Eldorado of -modern times. Around us we behold an innumerable crowd of eager -lookers-on, who have come down from the city to meet their wives, -lovers, fathers, mothers, sisters, or brothers, as the case may be. The -crowd is probably one of the most motley and heterogeneous that ever -occupied space. It is composed of specimens of humanity from almost -every clime and nation upon the habitable globe. Citizens from every -State in the Union, North and South, Americans, French, English, Irish, -Scotch, Germans, Dutch, Danes, Swedes, Spaniards, Portuguese, Italians, -Russians, Poles, Greeks, Chinese, Japanese, Hindoos, Sandwich Islanders, -New Zealanders, Indians, Africans, and hybrids--all stand before us. We -see all grades and conditions, all ages and sexes, all colors and -costumes, in short, a complete human menagerie. - -By the sides of the wharves, and anchored in different parts of the -commodious and noble bay, we see magnificent ships, barks and brigs from -every nation of commercial note. But of all these majestic palaces of -the deep, none are equal in beauty of design and finish, in grace, -symmetry and elegance, or in excellence of quality, to our own American -clippers. Thinking that it might be of interest to some of my readers, -as a specimen of American marine or naval nomenclature, I have taken the -pains to collect a majority of the names of these oaken chariots of old -Neptune that have from time to time entered the Golden Gate, freighted -with merchandise from Atlantic ports. Some of the names are truly -appropriate and poetic. Ten of them, as will be seen, have, as a prefix, -the word “Golden.” I have arranged them in the subjoined list in -alphabetical order: - -Antelope, -Archer, -Atalanta, -Aurora, -Bald Eagle, -Belle of Baltimore, -Celestial, -Challenge, -Champion, -Climax, -Comet, -Contest, -Courser, -Dancing Feather, -Dashing Wave, -Dauntless, -Defiance, -Don Quixotte, -Eclipse, -Empress of the Seas, -Eureka, -Fearless, -Flying Arrow, -Flying Childers, -Flying Cloud, -Flying Dragon, -Flying Dutchman, -Flying Eagle, -Flying Fish, -Game Cock, -Gazelle, -Gem of the Ocean, -Golden Age, -Golden City, -Golden Eagle, -Golden Fleece, -Golden Gate, -Golden Light, -Golden Racer, -Golden Rule, -Golden State, -Golden West, -Gray Eagle, -Gray Feather, -Gray Hound, -Herald of the Morning, -Highflyer, -Hornet, -Honqua, -Hurricane, -Ino, -Invincible, -John Gilpin, -King Fisher, -Mystery, -National Eagle, -Neptune’s Car, -Northern Crown, -Ocean Pearl, -Ocean Spray, -Olive Branch, -Onward, -Oriental, -Orion, -Pampero, -Peerless, -Phantom, -Queen of Clippers, -Queen of the Pacific, -Queen of the Seas, -Rattler, -Raven, -Red Rover, -Reindeer, -Ring Leader, -Rip Van Winkle, -Rover’s Bride, -Sea Serpent, -Seaman’s Bride, -Shooting Star, -Simoon, -Light Foot, -Living Age, -Mandarin, -Matchless, -Messenger, -Meteor, -Monsoon, -Morning Light, -Mountain Wave, -Sirocco, -Skylark, -Snowsquall, -Southern Cross, -Spitfire, -Stag Hound, -Storm King, -Sun Beam, -Surprise, -Sword Fish, -Siren, -Tam O’Shanter, -Telegraph, -Tinqua, -Tornado, -Trade Wind, -Typhoon, -Viking, -Waterwitch, -Western Star, -Westward Ho! -West Wind, -Whirlwind, -White Squall, -White Swallow, -Wide Awake, -Wild Duck, -Wild Pigeon, -Wild Ranger, -Winged Racer, -Wings of the Morning, -Witch of the Wave, -Witchcraft, -Wizard, -Zoe. - -Leaving the vicinity of the shipping, we wend our way towards the heart -of the city. As we proceed, we observe many objects of interest that -deserve more attention than we can bestow upon them at this time. - -Degradation, profligacy and vice confront us at every step. Men are -passing to and fro with haggard visages and heads declined, muttering to -themselves, and looking as hungry and ferocious as the prowling beasts -of an Asiatic jungle. Before us on either side, we see a group of boys, -clad in slouched hats, dirty shirts, ragged pants, and shabby shoes, -without socks, who have no regular business. Sometimes they sell -newspapers in the morning, and in the middle of the day engage in -various occupations, as, for instance, in peddling fruits, nuts and -toys. At this time several of them seem to have met by chance, and they -have stopped to discuss the times and the progress of events. If we were -near enough, we should probably hear the right hand party criticising -Madame Anna Thillon’s last performance of the opera of La Somnambula, or -of the Daughter of the Regiment; and those on the left giving their -opinions upon the merits of Madame Anna Bishop’s last oratorio or ballad -concert. After disposing of all the actors and actresses in music, -opera, pantomime, tragedy and comedy, or, perhaps, after bragging of the -successes of certain amours or other youthful depravities, they rally -together, and entering the nearest groggery, one calls for a brandy -smash, another for a whiskey punch, a third for a gin cocktail, and so -on, until all are served. Then, bowing to each other, they drink to the -prosperity of Young America, to which school they all belong; and -dashing their glasses upon the counter with as hideous and vociferous -anathemas as ever passed the lips of an East India pirate, they -separate, segar in mouth, and return to their respective avocations. Not -unfrequently these vicious youths repeat their potations so often that -they become thoroughly inebriated, and may be seen quarreling, fighting, -and lying about the streets like hardened and inveterate topers. - -The bales and stacks of hay and straw piled upon some of the wharves, -deserve a passing glance, since they form the sleeping apartments of -dozens of penniless vagabonds who are always wandering about the city in -idleness and misery, and have no other place to rest, no bed to sleep -upon, except these out-door packages of provender, into which they creep -for shelter and slumber during the long hours of the night. - -Continuing our perambulations in a westerly direction, we find ourselves -at the foot of Commercial street, which runs almost due east and west -through the centre of the city. This street we will pass up, paying -attention as we proceed to some of the irregularities and peculiarities -which distinguish San Francisco from other cities, and California from -other countries. The first houses we see are from one to two stories in -height, and are built of red wood, a very light combustible kind of -timber that resembles the spruce or cedar. Oregon produces nearly all -the building materials out of which these and most other houses and -tenements in California are constructed; and I have been credibly -informed that the red wood and fir trees in that territory grow from two -hundred and fifty to three hundred feet high, and proportionally thick. -In some of the remote and comparatively inaccessible parts of California -these varieties of timber are also found, and are said to acquire the -same gigantic bulk. - -Most of the buildings in this part of the street are tenanted by those -mysterious and avaricious characters whose arrival in this, as well as -in other places, is always as inexplicable as that of the flies in -summer, and whose exit is equally as unceremonious as that of the -swallows in winter--no one knowing whence they came or whither they -go--the Jews, those nomades of civilization. These erratic and -money-loving descendants of the ancient biblical patriarchs seem to -follow in the wake of all adventurous Christians and gentiles who wear -those convenient articles of apparel denominated ready-made clothes. -Preferring to travel the way after it is once opened, they are seldom -known as the pioneers of a new country; and claiming to be conservative -in their principles and opposed to aggression, they profess -disinclination to encroach upon foreign territory; but after the battles -are fought with the forest, the wild beasts, or the biped enemy, and -peace and security established, they are ever ready to come in and -partake of whatever advantages may have been attained. So it has been in -California, so it is yet, and so it will always be here and every where -else, with these homeless and migratory people. - -They do not employ any of their time or means in advancing the permanent -and substantial interests of the country. None of them engage in any -sort of manual labor, except, perhaps, that which is of the most trivial -and unmanly nature, such, for instance, as the manufacturing of jewelry -and haberdashery. Mining, the cultivation of the soil, in a word, any -occupation that requires exposure to the weather, is too fatiguing and -intolerable for them. The law requiring man to get bread by the sweat of -his brow, is an injunction with which they refuse to comply. It is a tax -they are unwilling to pay--an enigma beyond their comprehension--they -will not sweat. Dealing in ready-made clothing appears to be their -peculiar forte; and this is about the only thing they follow in San -Francisco--as I think it may be said to be their principal pursuit -wherever they go, when they have not the means to set themselves up as -pawn-brokers or note-shavers. - -We observe that they have presumptuously usurped or occupied from four -to six feet of the way on either side of the street, by building little -wooden racks and projections in front of their stores, for the purpose -of making a more conspicuous display of their marketable vestments in -dry weather. In any other place than California such unjust -appropriations of the streets of a city would not be tolerated; but -here, where usurpation, illegality and confusion reign supreme, no -attention is paid to it. - -It has ever been the misfortune of the Jew to undergo the scorn and -contumely of self-styled Christians, and indeed of all nations. Since -the destruction of his ancient capital by the Romans, he has been an -outcast in the world, the standing butt of the Gentile’s scoffs. -California is no exception to this general rule. But little respect is -shown him there; and he is continually jeered by having applied to him -such annoying epithets as Christ-killer, ham-hater and anti-pork-eater. -But few of them have signs over their doors, as most men have who -transact business upon their honor and reputation. Some of them buy and -sell under assumed names; but in general their business is anonymously -conducted. Bidding adieu to the cosmopolitan issue of Abraham, Isaac -and Jacob, and leaving them in the peaceable possession and enjoyment of -their “too or tree towsand monnies,” we will take a glance at matters of -more importance. - -Higher up the street we come to a better class of buildings than the -miserable little shops we have just left, and we get a fair view of the -permanent and attractive architecture of San Francisco--the brick and -stone structures. Many of these buildings are beautifully designed and -symmetrically proportioned, and have fire-proof walls varying from -sixteen to twenty-four inches in thickness. They are usually from two to -four stories in height. One hotel is five stories high, being the -tallest house in the State. - -Probably no city in this country can boast of buildings so substantial -and thoroughly fire-proof as those of San Francisco. Besides making the -walls very thick, every care is taken to have the doors, window-shutters -and roofs equally stout and incombustible; nor is this precaution at all -surprising, when it is remembered that this city alone has lost more -than twenty-five millions of dollars by fire. - -Owing to the unusual dryness of the weather, the prevalence of winds in -summer, and the inadequate supply of water possessed by the city, all -combustible matter is rendered so inflammable that it is quite -impossible to keep it from burning after fire is once communicated; -hence the necessity of using brick and stone instead of wood. The amount -of money invested in this durable kind of improvement, as will be seen -by reference to the following statistics which I borrow from the Herald, -is something over thirteen and a half millions of dollars--the number of -buildings being six hundred and thirty-eight: - - No. of buildings. Value. -Mason street 4 $ 35,000 -Powell street 13 156,500 -Stockton street 35 423,500 -Dupont street 37 450,000 -Kearny street 23 535,000 -Montgomery street 55 3,500,000 -Sansome street 46 1,036,000 -Battery street 63 1,106,000 -Front street 39 612,000 -Davis street 3 85,000 -Geary street 2 16,000 -Sutter street 3 30,000 -Bush street 5 144,000 -Pine street 9 144,500 -California street 47 1,230,750 -Sacramento street 52 778,000 -Commercial street 21 462,000 -Clay street 28 593,000 -Merchant street 15 348,500 -Washington street 37 608,500 -Jackson street 19 308,000 -Pacific street 7 107,000 -Broadway 10 145,000 -Vallejo street 3 36,000 -Green street 2 16,000 -Union street 6 92,000 -Greenwich street 3 35,000 -Lombard street 2 12,000 -Chestnut street 2 20,000 -Francisco street 1 36,000 -Market street 2 40,000 -First street 5 76,000 -Brannan street 10 50,000 -Third street 4 44,500 -Miscellaneous 55 307,000 - --- ----------- - Total 638 $13,618,750 - -It is a remarkable fact, however, that less than half of these -improvements have been made with California gold. Ask the proprietors -where they got the money which they have expended in the erection of -these buildings, and they will tell you it came from the Atlantic States -and from Europe. Those who occupy them, the merchants and business men -from New York, London, Paris, Hamburg, Bremen, and other places, will -testify to this fact. California gold is to the world much what Southern -cotton is to the North; it is not retained at home to supply the wants -of the people, to afford them employment, to enrich or embellish the -country, but is passed into distant hands, and afterwards brought back -at a premium. Thus the producers are continually drained, and the -commonwealth necessarily impoverished by this unthrifty management. - -These buildings are erected upon the most eligible and convenient sites, -and form what is properly termed the business portion of the -city--covering, probably, about one-sixth of its superficies. Almost -all of the residences or private dwellings are built of wood, and are -very frail and inelegant. It is the intention, however, of a large -number of the citizens to take down the wood and substitute brick or -stone, as soon as they get able, if that is ever to be the case. - -To acquaint ourselves with the character of the speculators and business -men in San Francisco would be a curious and interesting task. They are -certainly the shrewdest rascals in the world, and a straight-forward, -honest man, who acts upon principle and adheres to a legitimate system -of dealing, can no more cope with them than he can fly. But -notwithstanding their shrewdness, and I might say, in some instances, -their excellent business qualifications, they exhibit less method and -system in their transactions than any class of traders I ever saw. -Whatever they do is done in a helter-skelter, topsy-turvy sort of way, -as if they had just fallen out of their element, and were scrambling to -get back again. They never take time to do a thing well, but are always -going and coming, or bustling about in such a manner, that one would -suppose they were making preparations for some calamitous emergency, -rather than attending to the every day routine of an established -occupation. - -This restless disposition is characteristic of the inhabitants of every -part of the State; the mind seems all the time to be intently engaged -upon something in another place, and the body is always pushing forward -to overtake it. - -Pursuing this digression a little further, it may be remarked of San -Francisco that, although she is indebted to California for her -existence, she is no longer dependent upon the State for her support. -San Francisco can now claim to be as much the city of the Pacific, or of -the world, as of California. The commercial advantages she enjoys, her -inviting harbor and central position, are far superior in importance to -any benefit she is likely to receive from the interior. The profits she -will gain from the whale-fishing fleet of the North Pacific, and from -her trade with the islands of the South Pacific, with China, Oregon and -Russian America, will place her in a more prominent and enviable -position than it is possible for the State ever to attain. - -Returning to our subject, we find ourselves as far advanced on our way -as Montgomery street. The course of this street lies north and south -through the middle of the most beautiful and wealthy part of the city; -it is, therefore, both the Broadway and the Wall street of San -Francisco. Every phase and trait of life and character is cognizable -here. The dramatist who would study human nature here, would have an -opportunity of striking out something new, instead of repeating the old -creations of his predecessors, for surely never was there so varied a -page spread out before the eyes of man. - -While in this vicinity, we may observe men, who in the Atlantic States -bore unblemished reputations for probity and honor, sinking into the -lowest depths of shame and degradation. Others, whose moral characters -are unobjectionable, have been pecuniarily unfortunate, and are driven -to the necessity of engaging in the most menial and humiliating -employments. Among the latter class, I might mention lawyers, who, to -save themselves from the severe pangs of actual want, have been -compelled to fish around the wharves for crabs, and to enlist themselves -in the petty traffic of shrimps and tomcods. Ministers and physicians -fare no better. In a certain hotel in this city, not long since, a -lawyer was employed as a regular runner; in another, adjacent to it, a -physician was engaged to pare potatoes and wash dishes; while in a -neighboring restaurant, a preacher was hired to wait upon the customers -and clean off the tables. Now, does not every reasonable man know that -these professional men did not voluntarily follow these inferior -pursuits? It was not a matter of choice with them. They could not help -themselves; they were out of money, out of employment, destitute of -friends, and were compelled to take advantage of the first opportunity -that offered of earning their daily bread. Half the lowest and most -servile situations or offices in this and other cities in the State are -filled, often without any other remuneration, than board and lodging, -by these unlucky and depressed adventurers. - -New as the country is, the dandy, that exquisite flower of a finished -civilization, is not unknown. He may be seen at any time sunning his -external splendor on the side-walk, and scorning his more useful -cotemporaries as loftily as though, he were promenading Broadway or the -Champs Elysees. - -Together with bankers, stock-jobbers, and other moneyed men, we observe -that the students or disciples of Blackstone, Coke and Story have -selected this street for their offices. Considering the heterogeneous -composition of society in this country, the loose and unsystematic -transactions of every-day business, and the unsettled state of public -affairs, it will be readily perceived that there is an incessant -clashing of feeling and interest, and that the result is a great deal of -strife and litigation. Disputes and difficulties relative to real -property, and spurious or imaginary claims, keep the court dockets -continually crowded; and the lawyers have rich and abundant -opportunities for the exercise of their forensic abilities. - -For the first two or three years after the settlement of California by -the Americans, all attempts to organize or establish the civil law -proved fruitless; and during this anarchical period no redress could be -had, except by an appeal to lynch-law, in which case death was sure to -be the fate of the criminal. Then the country had no practitioners of -law, except those whose talents ranked far below mediocrity; but now the -San Francisco bar can boast of some of the most profound and eminent -jurists in the Union. It is probable that they have been more fortunate -in accumulating wealth, than any other class of men. Much of their -business has been of such a nature that they could mould it almost -exclusively to their own interest, provided they felt inclined to take -such an advantage of their clients; and every body knows it would be a -very unlawful thing in a lawyer to neglect himself. They are the largest -owners of real estate in the city, and there is no species of property -that yields so great a profit as this, if properly managed. - -Land titles are now as much contested as they ever were, there being in -some instances as many as half a dozen claimants to a single lot. The -squatters cause most of these troubles. Generally poor, and homeless, -they settle upon any vacant or unoccupied piece of ground that suits -them; and as there is a numerous body linked together for mutual support -and protection, it is an extremely difficult matter for the -half-sustained civil authorities to remove them. If the law were -sufficiently forcible--if there were any such thing in California as -sovereign law, these intruders would be brought to justice, and instead -of the broils and butchery now so common all over the country, peace, -safety and good order would exist. But as it is, no dependence can be -placed upon the administration of justice; and unless a man takes the -law in his own hands, and defends his person and property _vi et armis_, -he must tamely submit to whatever injury or indignity is offered him. -Sometimes several squatters settle indiscriminately upon a single claim; -and in these cases, feuds, animosities and contentions are sure to -follow; but the difficulties are soon arranged by a recourse to weapons, -it being generally conceded that he is the rightful owner or claimant, -who happens to possess the largest bowie-knife and the truest aim with -rifle or revolver. - -The grog-shops or tippling-houses constitute the last but not the least -prominent feature of Montgomery street that we will notice at the -present time. The devil has certainly met with more than usual success -in establishing so many of these, his recruiting officers, in this -region; for we cannot visit any part of the state or city without -finding them always at our elbow. San Francisco might allot one to every -street corner in the city, or in other words, four to every intersection -of the streets, and still her number would not be exhausted. It is -astonishing what an amount of time, labor and money is misspent in this -nefarious traffic. Out of the two hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants -in California, from twelve to fifteen thousand are exclusively engaged -in this diabolical, but lucrative business; and, what is worse than all, -nearly one-fourth of the bars are attended by young females, of the most -dissolute and abandoned character, who use every device to entice and -mislead the youthful and unsuspecting. Women being somewhat of a novelty -here, their saloons are always thronged with customers, many being -induced to patronize them merely for the sake of looking at them. What a -base prostitution of their destiny and mission! Woman has come here, not -only to pander to man’s vitiated appetites, but also to create and -foster in him unholier desires, and, if possible, to lead him further -astray than he would have gone without her. - -Lest we should fall in love with one of these sirens, we will not go -near them, but will enter one of the saloons kept by a biped of our own -sex. Across the street is a large and fashionable one, called the Blue -Wing, - - “Where politicians most do congregate, - To let their tongues tang arguments of State.” - -Adding ourselves to the number of its inmates, we find the governor of -the State seated by a table, surrounded by judges of the supreme and -superior courts, sipping sherry cobblers, smoking segars, and reveling -in all the delights of an anticipated debauch. Another group of less -distinction in public affairs, but better known to the proprietor -because of their more frequent and protracted visits, occupy a second -table in the back part of the room, where they are playing cards and -carousing over a general assortment of distilled, fermented and malt -liquors. The proprietor himself is a red-nosed, jolly fellow, of -burgomaster proportions, generally in a good humor, who treats his -victim-patrons with the utmost courtesy and politeness. He is every -man’s man, and always has a smile and a smart saying prepared for the -entertainment of the bystanders. His two clerks, for he is unable to -wait upon all his customers himself, are equally urbane in their -deportment, and may be found at their posts from six o’clock in the -morning till twelve o’clock at night, ready to flavor and tincture mixed -drinks, to prepare hot punches, and to deal out low anecdote to vulgar -idlers. On the shelves and counters are dozens of labeled decanters and -bottles, filled with the choicest liquors and artificial beverages that -the world produces; other articles of similar use and value are also -kept for sale, and stored away in their appropriate places. As a minute -survey of the bill of fare may not be uninteresting, I herewith present -it:-- - - -BILL OF FARE OF A CALIFORNIA GROGGERY. - -Bowie Knives and Pistols. - -Scotch Ale, -English Porter, -American Brandy, -Irish Whiskey, -Holland Gin, -Jamaica Rum, -French Claret, -Spanish Sack, -German Hockamore, -Persian Sherbet, -Portuguese Port, -Brazilian Arrack, -Swiss Absynthe, -East India Acids, -Spirit Stews and Toddies, -Lager Beer, -New Cider, -Soda Waters, -Mineral Drinks, -Ginger Pop, -Usquebaugh, -Sangaree, -Perkin, -Mead, -Metheglin, -Eggnog, -Capilliare, -Kirschwassen, -Cognac, -Rhenish Wine, -Sauterne, -Malaga, -Muscatel, -Burgundy, -Haut Bersæ, -Champagne, -Maraschino, -Tafia, -Negus, -Tog, -Shambro, -Fisca, -Virginia, -Knickerbocker, -Snifter, -Exchange, -Poker, -Agent, -Floater, -I O U, -Smasher, -Curacoa, -Ratafia, -Tokay, -Calcavalla, -Alcohol, -Cordials, -Syrups, -Stingo, -Hot Grog, -Mint Juleps, -Gin Sling, -Brick Tops, -Sherry Cobblers, -Queen Charlottes, -Mountaineers, -Brandy Smashes, -Whiskey Punch, -Cherry Bounce, -Shamperone, -Drizzles, -Our Own, -Red Light, -Hairs, -Horns, -Whistler, -White Lion, -Settler, -Peach and Honey, -Whiskey Skin, -Old Sea Dog, -Peg and Whistle, -Eye Opener, -Apple Dam, -Flip Flap, -One-eyed Joe, -Cooler, -Cocktails, -Tom and Jerry, -Moral Suasion, -Jewett’s Fancy, -Ne Plus Ultra, -Citronella Jam, -Silver Spout, -Veto, -Deacon, -Ching Ching, -Sergeant, -Stone Wall, -Rooster Tail, -Vox Populi, -Tug and Try, -Segars and Tobacco. - -The annual consumption of beer, wines and liquors in this State exceeds -five millions of gallons, a vast deal of which is retailed at -extraordinarily remunerative rates. All of the first class -establishments, I mean those that deal in good qualities, charge -twenty-five cents for every drink or dram they sell; but an adulterated -article, of which there is always an abundant supply in market, can be -procured at about one half that price. In some of the most popular and -respectable saloons, genuine articles are always kept on hand for the -benefit and accommodation of those who are willing to pay for a -delicious (?) draught. I may not be a competent judge, but this much I -will say, that I have seen purer liquors, better segars, finer tobacco, -truer guns and pistols, larger dirks and bowie knives, and prettier -courtezans here, than in any other place I have ever visited; and it is -my unbiased opinion that California can and does furnish the best bad -things that are obtainable in America. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -SAN FRANCISCO--CONTINUED. - - -We will now look into Clay street, which intersects Montgomery, and runs -parallel with Commercial. Next to Montgomery, this is the most -fashionable street in the city; the large establishments where retailers -deal in ladies’ and gentlemen’s dress goods being situated upon it. The -side-walks are narrow, and generally crowded to such an excess as to -render it really difficult and tiresome to travel them. To the ladies, -shopping on this street is especially annoying and tedious; for they are -designedly balked or hindered in their course by a set of well-dressed -vagabonds, who promenade the _trestoir_ from morning to night for the -sole purpose of staring in their faces. - -The following little circumstance, which occurred here about a year ago, -will show that, however culpable it may be in those who make a regular -business of gazing intently in ladies’ faces, the act is sometimes -induced by a natural and inoffensive regard for the opposite sex. A very -clever married lady, whose notions and ideas of things were somewhat -akin to those of the Merry Wives of Windsor, espied a gentleman gazing -very earnestly in her face, when she turned to him, notwithstanding they -were both on the street, and asked, “Why do you stare at me so hard, -sir? Have I done you any injury?” “Oh! no, madam,” replied he; “I assure -you you have not harmed me in the least. But pardon me; I have been in -the mines for the last two years, and it has been so long since I saw a -lady, that I must own my admiration of you has compelled me to be -somewhat rude in my scrutiny of your charms.” The lady was satisfied -with the complimentary explanation, and since that time has been more -resigned to her fate, and better contented to endure the steady stare of -the public. - -The gambling-houses cannot be overlooked in a true sketch of life in San -Francisco. One of the largest and most frequented of these, called the -Diana, stands a few doors above us. The building extends, through the -entire block, from Clay to Commercial street, and has a front -proportionate to its depth. The doors, which lead into it from either -street, are kept wide open from nine in the morning till twelve at -night, during which time the hall or saloon is generally filled to -overflowing with lazy men, of little principle, whose chief employment -consists in devising some sinister plans of procuring a livelihood -without work. On one side is a bar, attended by a _lady_, assisted by -three young white men and two negroes. This is largely patronized by the -occupants of the saloon--one-fifth of them drinking because they have -been lucky, and the other four-fifths drinking because they have been -unlucky. Around the walls are suspended showy paintings and engravings, -some of them of the size of life, representing nude women in every -imaginable posture of obscenity and indecency. - -Seated around numerous tables, covered with cloth or velvet, and -finished expressly for gambling purposes, are some rare specimens of -greedy speculators in the folly of their fellow-men. The proprietor of -the house rents his tables to professional gamblers at a stipulated sum -per month, with the condition that he is to receive a certain per -centage on the net proceeds of their swindling operations. Usually, two -gamblers form a copartnership, hire one table, and station themselves -opposite each other, so that each can understand every manœuvre and -secret sign of the other; and when a good opportunity for cheating or -defrauding presents itself to one of them, the other is always prepared -to divert the attention of the audience or of the interested party from -his partner’s motions. Every possible variety of gaming that can be -accomplished by cards and dice is practiced here; and every false and -dishonest trick is resorted to (often with more than anticipated -success) to fleece ignorant men of their purses. Lying on the top of -each table is a pile of gold and silver coin, denominated the bank, the -size and amount of which, as a matter of course, depend altogether upon -the wealth of the proprietors. I have said “the bank” is composed of -gold and silver coin; it must be one or other, or both of these metals -in some shape--whether in dust, ingots, bullion, or coin; for these -constitute the sole recognized currency of the State, there being no -paper money or bank-notes in circulation. - -At one of the tables we observe two proprietors, as before described. -One of them is a lank, cadaverous fellow, with a repulsive expression of -low cunning, full of hypocrisy and deceit, taciturn in disposition, -unengaging in manners, who was formerly a Baptist preacher in -Connecticut. The other has a vinous, fat, and jolly countenance, is -open-faced, enjoys a joke, is lively, laughs at his partner for being so -melancholy, is affable and courteous to strangers, talks a great deal, -as might be expected, since, before he came to California, he was -considered one of the most promising young lawyers in Mississippi. - -The proprietors of another table are two old gentlemen of “three score -years and ten,” whose white hairs and wrinkled brows would seem to -belong to a more honorable station in life than that assigned them by -destiny. A third table is used by a couple of Spaniards, whose scowling -brows and treacherous eyes indicate that they are better qualified for -the transaction of infamous and atrocious deeds, than for fair dealing -or magnanimous behaviour. A Jew and Jewess have command of the fourth -table; the fifth is under the direction and management of a French -_gentleman_ and _lady_; a young American girl and her paramour have -charge of the sixth; while the seventh, eighth, ninth, tenth, and so on, -are presided over by sundry sorts of wicked spirits, unworthy of being -named. Octogenarians, youthful and middle-aged men, married and -unmarried women, boys and girls, white and black, brown and -copper-colored, the quarrelsome and the peaceable, all associate -together; and, at times, as might be expected, fight, maim, and kill -each other with the same indifference with which people generally pursue -their daily occupations. - -I neglected to mention before, that, in some conspicuous point of the -principal houses of this character, there is generally erected a stage -or platform, upon which a company of musicians perform at intervals of a -quarter of an hour. This they are employed to do for the purpose of -enticing unsuspecting strangers and passers-by. - -Like those engaged in the liquor traffic, these gamblers are a public -nuisance, a burden upon society. They do no sort of profitable manual or -mental labor; yet the community grants them a license to abuse the -public, and to debase themselves. Their occupation being a -discreditable and dishonorable one, it robs them of that degree of -happiness and respectability which naturally belongs to every -industrious and upright man. Like a deadly contagion, they blast and -destroy all with whom they come in contact. - -Thousands of these swindlers live by their expertness in gambling and -tricks of legerdemain. Dissipated, reckless, and restless, they rove -from place to place, rarely acquiring decent habits or becoming -permanent citizens. They are, nevertheless, great lovers and admirers of -women; and most of them make it a special branch of their business to -cultivate a due share of female acquaintance. But we will now bid adieu -to the blacklegs, and return again to the street, merely stopping a -minute or two, as we pass out, to listen to the enchanting strains of -“Katy Darling,” or “Lilly Dale,” played by the brass band in attendance. - -What is here called the plaza, or park, which occupies one square -between Washington, Clay, Kearney and Brenham streets, now lies before -us; but as it is nothing more nor less than a cow-pen, inclosed with -unplaned plank, we will say but little about it. In the middle is -planted a tall liberty-poll, near which is erected a rude rostrum for -lynch-lawyers and noisy politicians. If there is a tree, or a bush, or a -shrub, or a sprig of grass, or any thing else in or about it that is -green, or that bears the slightest similitude to vegetation, nobody has -ever yet seen it; and, as a pleasure-ground, it is used only by the -four-footed denizens of the city. On the east side of this delectable -public square is the California Exchange, before the steps of which are -stationed from fifteen to twenty French peasants, who pursue no business -save that of blacking boots. Most of them have acquired or adopted this -ornamental occupation since they left La Belle France. - -A few doors above the Exchange stands the City Hall, which was formerly -the Jenny Lind Theatre--a very neat stone structure, but wholly unsuited -for the purpose to which it is now applied. The parties who built it for -a theatre soon ascertained that it was a bad speculation, and became -considerably involved in debt; and, to save themselves, and make the -best of a bad bargain, they bribed a majority of the aldermen to -purchase it for a City Hall, at several thousand dollars above the -original cost. - -In this way a monstrous swindle was perpetrated upon the community, by -fraudulently appropriating the public money to the use and benefit of -private individuals. But the fraud could not be remedied; the city -officers had been elected as the representatives of the citizens, whose -rights and powers had been vested in them, and if they were so base as -to prove recreant to their trust, the penalty had to be paid by their -constituents. They consummated their corrupt bargain for the theatre, -the properties were removed, and, after the expenditure of much time, -labor, and money, in making alterations and additions, the building was -converted into what now stands before us--the City Hall of San -Francisco. The principals in this iniquitous transaction enriched -themselves and their accomplices at the expense of the city treasury, -suffering nothing except the denunciations and execrations of an abused -and outraged public. This is a fair sample of the disposition that is -made of the public funds throughout the State. Sheriffs, treasurers, and -tax-collectors, in the majority of cases, are expected to decamp with -all the money in their hands, or to embezzle a part of it; and it has -passed into a proverb, that no _honest_ man can be elected to a city, -county, or state office in California. - -Were we to remain an hour or two in this vicinity, we should probably -see a police officer rolling “a perpetual hymn to the Deity” on a -wheelbarrow--for that, we believe, is Poe’s euphemism for a woman. -Intoxication is quite common among the ladies of this particular section -of San Francisco, and the wheelbarrow, or some other vehicle, must be -employed to convey them to the station-house, on account of the total -failure of their natural organs of locomotion. - -On the north side of the Plaza are some of the best French -eating-houses in the State. One of them, the _Cafe du Commerce_, which, -translated into English, means Commercial Coffee-house, is quite famous -for its choice gastronomy. A better dinner can be procured here than in -an American house, because the French are better cooks, cleaner in their -culinary arrangements and preparations, more polite and attentive to -their guests, and less accustomed to adulterating their provisions. -Dinner, without wine, costs two dollars for each person; but with it, -from three to five dollars, according to quality and quantity consumed. -The stranger cannot promise himself any thing very sumptuous or -delicious in the way of eatables, even in the first-class hotels. He can -get good wines and liquors, prime cigars and tobacco, and other -accessory articles of superior quality; but the fare at best is very -indifferent. - -All the more substantial articles of food, such as flour, meal, beef, -pork, and butter, are imported from Europe or brought from the Atlantic -States. As these provisions are sent around by Cape Horn, they must pass -twice through the tropics before they arrive in San Francisco; -consequently, most of them become more or less sour, musty, or rancid, -which, as we all know, renders them not only repugnant to the palate, -but also injurious to health. But, notwithstanding their transportation -of from seventeen to twenty thousand miles upon the Atlantic and -Pacific oceans, old or fresh, sound or unsound, they must be sold, -served up, cooked, eaten. They cannot be wasted or thrown away, for that -would be a losing business, and people did not come to California to -lose money, but to make it; nor does it matter to them whether they make -it by the sale of sweet flour or by the vending of putrid meats. - -Sour flour is sold at reduced prices to the bakers, who mix it with a -larger quantity--say twice as much--of that which is sweet; then it is -manufactured into bread, delivered to the restaurants, and devoured by -the populace. The flour put up by the Gallego and Haxall mills, of -Richmond, Virginia, receives less damage in its transit through the -torrid zone than any other--at least, this is the reputation it enjoys -in California, those brands being more highly prized and more eagerly -sought after by bakers and consumers. Next to the Richmond, the -Fredericksburg and Georgetown flour is most in demand. How it is that -the flour manufactured in the localities just named, or in the vicinity -of those localities, retains its pure and primitive qualities better and -longer than that produced at the North, which, with few exceptions, -spoils on the way, I am unable to say--unless, perhaps, the latitude or -climate imparts to it a healthier condition or a preservative -principle. - -Within the last one or two years, considerable quantities of the -cerealia have been cultivated in the low lands and valleys of this -State, and a few flouring mills have been erected, which are now in -operation; but the proprietors mix their grists so much with rye and -barley, that the flour is less marketable than it would be if it was -ground out of genuine wheat. To give character to their spurious -compound, they practice a double imposition, by packing it in empty -Gallego and Haxall barrels, which are clandestinely purchased and kept -in readiness for the purpose. Thus they steal the reputation of the -Virginia brands; and, by placing their falsely-labeled, inferior flour -in the hands of their rascally agents, they succeed in effecting large -sales of it to those who are not particular in their examinations. -Though the fraud is easily detected when the barrels are opened, there -is no chance of obtaining redress; for, in most cases, these deceptions -are carried out in such an indirect or complicated way, through factors -and agents, that it is too difficult a matter to trace them to their -source. If, however, the guilty parties are discovered, it amounts to -nothing; because here, where the laws are so loosely and imperfectly -administered, where all strong persons do as they please, and weak ones -must do as they can, it costs more to adjust a wrong than it does to -endure it. - -This system of cheating and adulteration is carried out in all -ramifications of business; and if a man is not continually upon the -alert, he is sure to suffer the penalty of his negligence, by having a -worse thing than he bargained for thrust upon him, and that, too, -without redress. - -To return from our digression: although the French are somewhat more -philosophic and scientific in their preparation of viands, we perceive -no material difference between their mode of living and our own. They -eat more slowly, are more graceful in their deportment at table, and -seem to enjoy their meals as a feast, rather than to devour them as a -necessary repast. Wine is their principal drink, morning, noon and -night; and dinner to them, without it, would be as insipid and -unpalatable as breakfast to our American grand-mothers without coffee. -After the main part of the meal is finished, it is customary with them -to sip a small cup of strong coffee, as a sort of accompaniment to their -dessert. This, however, they do not flavor with cream, as we do, but use -Cognac, burnt with sugar, instead. It is an unusual thing for them to -drink water at any time, except when mixed with wine. I have the -pleasure of the acquaintance of a very worthy and estimable French -gentleman, who assured me that he had taken but one drink of crude water -in four years, “and then,” he added, “it make me sick.” - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -SAN FRANCISCO--CONCLUDED. - - -After a night’s lodging in one of the human-stables of San Francisco, -called here, for politeness’ sake, hotels, we feel sufficiently -refreshed to continue our reconnoissance of the city. It will probably -be as well for us to retrace our steps to the south side of the Plaza, -where we re-enter Clay street, and ascend the long, high hill that forms -the western boundary of the city. Before proceeding far, we come to a -pistol gallery, on the left, owned and conducted by one Dr. Natchez, a -short, thick-set “son of thunder,” who keeps on hand the best assortment -of dueling apparatus that the world affords. The proprietor’s real -cognomen is, I think, Brown, Smith or Jones; but every body calls him -Natchez, because he came from the town of that name in Mississippi. He -knows all about guns, pistols, and ammunition; is an excellent shot--can -hit a bull’s eye or a man’s eye every time he pulls a trigger; and never -fails to vindicate his honor when it is assailed. In the opinion of the -duelist, he is emphatically an honor-saving man; and in matters of -personal difficulty and dispute, there is no one so capable of giving -suitable advice, or so well prepared to supply the necessary instruments -of polite slaughter, as Dr. Natchez. - -Among the fiery spirits of this Western Metropolis, the slightest -affront, even though it may be purely accidental, is considered a wound -to dignity curable only by an application of Colt’s revolver to the -breast of the transgressor; and as Dr. Natchez enjoys the reputation of -preparing the best remedies for wounded honor, all those afflicted with -the disorder apply to him for relief. Laying before him their ailments -and grievances, he will at once say _the cause must be removed_; the -offending party is waited upon with a challenge, which is accepted; and -the Doctor, with commendable impartiality, superintends the preparation -of the weapons for both parties. - -Passing on towards the summit of the hill before us, we soon arrive at -an elevation from which we have a clear and uninterrupted view of the -whole city, which contains, it is supposed, from forty-five to fifty -thousand inhabitants--about one-fifth of the entire population of the -State. The original water-boundary of the city, on the east, was in the -form of a crescent; but, the bay being shallow in this particular part, -its shape has been changed, by filling it in with sand from the adjacent -hills. Owing to the steep declivities of the original site of the city, -this encroachment was demanded and effected by those engaged in -commercial pursuits, who wanted level ground. The land thus made, being -the most eligibly situated and convenient to the wharves, is far more -valuable than that of natural formation. At first, however, heavy losses -were sustained, in consequence of the insecure foundations of most of -the buildings, some of which gave way entirely, and had to be -reconstructed. Now, however, they understand it better, and take special -care to pile and plank the foundation thoroughly before the -superstructure is erected. - -The process of filling up these water-lots was very irregular; and, as -the work advanced, several ponds of water, which afterwards became -stagnant, were cut off by these means from the ocean. In other places, -the tide receded from the shallow parts of the bay, and from the surface -thus left bare, as well as from the ponds last mentioned, there arose -large quantities of highly offensive and almost suffocating gas, which -obliterated all the painted signs in the immediate vicinity. Strange to -say, the effluvium exhaled from these foul ponds and marshy places did -not produce disease. The wind blew it off or counteracted its -insalubrious effects. - -Viewing the city from our present elevated position, we look in vain for -any verdure. Indeed, there is not a shade-tree in San Francisco. Nor, -if we search the outskirts of the city, can we find either trees, -coppice, vegetation, or any green thing whereon to feast the eyes. The -earth all around us is as sterile and unproductive as a public highway. -We feel a void, as though a friend were absent. Nature wears a repulsive -and haggard expression. Oh! how few there are amongst us who duly -appreciate trees, those noble earth-fingers that point to heaven and -uplift the mind to God! According to my judgment, there is a greater -combination of the beautiful and the useful in a forest oak or hickory, -than in all the gay exotics which are so carefully reared by the -florist. I entertain no doubt that a large, luxuriant elm would attract -more attention in San Francisco than a menagerie or circus; and it is a -wonder that some ingenious and speculative Yankee has not, ere this, -manufactured one out of soft pine and dyed muslin for public exhibition. -As an instance of the feeling that exists here on account of the lack of -trees, I may cite the exclamation of a distinguished gentleman with whom -I once had the honor to dine. Said he, (his wife at the time being in -North Carolina,) “I long for the society of trees almost as much as I do -for that of my wife; and if she and a big oak could now be placed side -by side within my reach, I scarcely know which of the two I should -embrace first!” - -Many other natural and artificial deficiencies and peculiarities, for -which San Francisco is famous, might, with propriety, be considered -before we quit our high retreat; but we will now conclude our panoramic -sketch, and descend into the more densely settled part of the city. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -THE CHINESE IN CALIFORNIA. - - -The national habits and traits of Chinese character, to which they cling -with uncompromising tenacity in this country, are strikingly anomalous -and distinct from those of all other nations. There is a marked identity -about their features, person, manners and costume, so unmistakable that -it betrays their nationality in a moment. So stereotyped are even the -features and form of this singular people, that we cannot fail in their -identity in the rudest cut that pretends to represent them. Particular -fashions and modes of dress give them no concern whatever. One common -rule seems to guide them in all their personal decorations. All their -garments look as if they were made after the same pattern, out of the -same material, and from the same piece of cloth. In short, the -similarity in their garb, features, physical proportions and deportment -is so great that one Chinaman looks almost exactly like another, but -very unlike anybody else. - -Let us now place ourselves in front of one of these xanthous children of -the flowery land, and survey him somewhat minutely. Every one is -acquainted with his method of dressing his head, which is closely -shaven, except a small spot on the crown, about the size of the palm of -the hand. Into this slender lock of hair thus permitted to grow upon the -apex of his cranium, he interweaves long strands of sable silk, which -form a cue that nearly reaches the ground. His hat, which possesses a -brim of enormous width, is manufactured out of ratan or bamboo splints, -and has an indentation made in the top expressly for the accommodation -of his cue. He very seldom, however, wears this appendage tucked up in -his hat, but generally allows it to trail about his back and legs, as -young girls sometimes do ribbons. This pig-tail he loves as he does his -life; and he would as willingly have his right arm amputated as part -with it. Notwithstanding he carries it behind him, it is his -character--the badge of his respectability; and Boodh or Josh alone -could prevail upon him to cut it off. His coat, which is fashioned very -much like a pea-jacket, is made of crow-colored cotton cloth, of flimsy -texture, and buttons loosely around him as low down as convenience will -permit. His pantaloons, the legs of which are a trifle smaller than a -medium-sized meal-bag, are composed of the same stuff as his coat, and -terminate at about the middle of his shins. His shoes or sandals--minus -socks, for he never wears any--are hewn out of solid wood, and taper -towards the toe nearly to a sharp point. As he moves along before us in -these uncouth habiliments--his feet inclosed in rude wooden shoes, his -legs bare, his breeches loosely flapping against his knees, his -skirtless, long-sleeved, big-bodied pea-jacket, hanging in large folds -around his waist, his broad-brimmed chapeau rocking carelessly on his -head, and his cue suspended and gently sweeping about his back--I can -compare him to nothing so appropriately as to a tadpole walking upon -stilts! Ludicrous and absurd as this comparison may appear to some, no -one who has seen him will say that it is incorrectly applied. Such, -then, is something of the outline of the Chinaman; and, with but few -exceptions, may be considered as illustrative of the entire race as seen -in California. The few exceptions are the mandarins, who robe themselves -in long figured gowns, and some of the wealthier classes, who wear silk -and satin goods, instead of cotton fabrics. But the description given -above will suit at least nine out of every ten. - -According to the most reliable estimates, there are at the present time -about forty thousand Chinese in California; and every vessel that -arrives from the Celestial Empire brings additional immigrants. From a -fourth to a fifth of these reside in San Francisco; the balance are -scattered about over various parts of the State--mostly in the mines. A -few females--say one to every twelve or fifteen males--are among the -number; among these good morals are unknown, they have no regard -whatever for chastity or virtue. You would be puzzled to distinguish the -women from the men, so inconsiderable are the differences in dress and -figure. The only apparent difference is, that they are of smaller -stature and have smoother features. They are not generally neat in their -outward habit; but on certain occasions, particularly on holidays, the -_elite_ doff their every-day costume, equip themselves in clean attire, -and braid their hair into a kind of crest, which, as it is worn upon the -head, bears a strong resemblance to the tuft of feathers upon the noddle -of a peacock. Those who are from the extreme northern parts of the -Chinese empire, are the ugliest and most rugged featured human beings I -ever saw. - -What the majority of them do for a livelihood is more than I can tell, -as they have but few visible occupations. The laundry business affords -those who live in San Francisco, and other cities, the most steady and -lucrative employment; and in passing their premises, the eye is often -attracted to such “Celestial” signs as the following: “Kum Kee. Washer.” -“Ahi Fe. Launder.” “Wong Cho. Washing and Ironing--$3 per Doz.” Catching -and drying fish is another business in which they engage, but do not -carry it on extensively; others are engaged in mercantile pursuits; and -here and there you will find one in a public house, filling the place of -a cook or a waiter. But, though most of them are held as mere slaves by -their wealthier countrymen, it goes desperately against the grain with -them to take the situation of servants among white people, as they are -constitutionally haughty and conceited, and believe themselves to be -superior to us in all respects. So exalted an opinion have they of -themselves that they think they are the most central, civilized and -enlightened people on earth, and that they are the especial favorites of -heaven--hence they are sometimes called “Celestials.” They look upon us -and all other white-skinned nations as “outside barbarians,” and think -we are unduly presumptuous if we do not pay them homage! Out of the -cities, more of them are engaged in mining than in any other occupation; -but, as I intimated before, the majority of them lead a very inactive -and unproductive life. Much physical exertion, however, is not required -to secure them a maintenance; for their aliment, if possible, costs them -less than their dress, which is by no means expensive. Indeed, so -sparing are they in their meals, that it is seldom they eat any thing -but boiled rice; and even this, which they bring with them from China, -is very inferior to that raised in the Carolinas. It is an amusing -spectacle to see one of them feeding on this grain. Holding a bowl of -the rice in such a manner that the nearer edge of it almost touches his -chin, and grasping two chopsticks, about the shape and size of -penholders, between his fingers and thumb, he feeds himself with a -lively and dexterous motion of the hand, not very unlike a musician -playing upon a jewsharp, and continues the feat without intermission -until he has finished. He seems to cram the food down his throat with -these chopsticks, rather than let it undergo the usual process of -mastication. The ardor and haste with which he executes the performance, -remind one of a provident farmer when he pitches new-made sheaves of -provender into a hay-mow, just previous to a thunder-storm. - -The Americans salute them all indiscriminately by the easy and -euphonious appellation of “John,” to which they reply as readily as if -they were addressed by their true names; and they return the compliment -by applying the same term to us, equally indiscriminately. A great -number of them think “John” is the only name white people have; and if -they have occasion to speak to an American or European woman, they call -her “John,” too! But their own vernacular cognomens, like their language -and habits, sound certainly very odd to occidental ears. The following -may be taken as fair specimens: Kak Chow, Chum Fi, Yah Wah, Si Ta, Hom -Fong, Dack Mung, Gee Foo. They are deplorably addicted to wasting time -in games of chance; and there are a dozen and a half gambling houses in -San Francisco under their especial control and direction. But neither -Americans nor Europeans participate in the sports or fortunes of their -tables; they themselves are the exclusive gamblers in these eighteen -dens of rascality. Their money is chiefly composed of brass and copper -coins, stamped with the characters of their alphabet. Hardened rice and -stamped slices of pasteboard are also current among them as mediums of -exchange. - -Is this Chinese immigration desirable? I think not; and, contrary to the -expressed opinions of many of the public prints throughout the country, -contend that it ought not to be encouraged. It is not desirable, because -it is not useful; or, if useful at all, it is so only to themselves--not -to us. No reciprocal or mutual benefits are conferred. In what capacity -do they contribute to the advancement of American interests? Are they -engaged in any thing that adds to the general wealth and importance of -the country? Will they discard their clannish prepossessions, assimilate -with us, buy of us, and respect us? Are they not so full of duplicity, -prevarication and pagan prejudices, and so enervated and lazy, that it -is impossible for them to make true or estimable citizens? I wish their -advocates would answer me these questions; if they will do it -satisfactorily, I will interrogate them no further. Under the existing -laws of our government, they, as well as all other foreigners, are -permitted to work the mines in California as long as they please, and as -much as they please, without paying any thing for the privilege, except -a small tax to the State. Even this has but recently been imposed, and -half the time is either evaded or neglected. The general government, -though it has sacrificed so much blood and treasure in acquiring -California, is now so liberal that it refuses to enact a law imposing a -tax upon foreign miners; and, as a matter of course, it receives no -revenue whatever from this source. But the Chinese are more -objectionable than other foreigners, because they refuse to have dealing -or intercourse with us; consequently, there is no chance of making any -thing of them, either in the way of trade or labor. They are ready to -take all they can get from us, but are not willing to give any thing in -return. They did not aid in the acquisition or settlement of California, -and they do not intend to make it their future home. They will not -become permanent citizens, nor identify their lives and interests with -the country. They neither build nor buy, nor invest capital in any way -that conduces to the advantage of any one but themselves. They have -thousands of good-for-nothing gewgaws and worthless articles of _virtu_ -for sale, and our people are foolish enough to buy them; but their -knowledge of the laws of reciprocity is so limited, that they never feel -in any need of American commodities. - -Though they hold themselves aloof from us, contemn and disdain us, they -have guaranteed to them the same privileges that we enjoy; and are -allowed to exhaust the mines that should be reserved for us and our -posterity--that is, if they are worth reserving at all. Their places -could and should be filled with worthier immigrants--Europeans, who -would take the oath of allegiance to the country, work both for -themselves and for the commonwealth, fraternize with us, and, finally, -become a part of us. All things considered, I cannot perceive what more -right or business these semi-barbarians have in California than flocks -of blackbirds have in a wheatfield; for, as the birds carry off the -wheat without leaving any thing of value behind, so do the Confucians -gather the gold, and take it away with them to China, without -compensation to us who opened the way to it. - -Still they are received with a flattering welcome. They are taken by the -hand with an obsequious grasp, as if their favor was earnestly desired; -and the impression is at once made upon their minds, that not only their -own presence, but also that of as many more of their kindred as can be -persuaded to come, is coveted by us. Their mining implements and boots -(the only articles of merchandise they purchase from us) are sold to -them at even less rates than to our own countrymen, more from curiosity -than from any other cause. For some unaccountable reason, they are -treated with a degree of deference and civility which is really -surprising. To humor their arrogance and presumption, I have frequently -seen Americans, in crowded places, relinquish the side-walk to them, and -betake themselves to the middle of a rough and muddy street. Moreover, -they are petted as if they were really what they preposterously fancy -themselves--the most elevated and exalted of the human race. - -But I am inclined to look upon them as an inauspicious element of -society--a seed of political dissensions. They have neither the strength -of body nor the power of mind to cope with us in the common affairs of -life; and as it seems to be a universal law that the stronger shall rule -the weaker, it will be required of them, ere long, to do one of two -things, namely--either to succumb, to serve us, or to quit the country. -Which will they do? Our people will not always treat them with undue -complaisance. Their real merits and demerits will be developed, and such -stations as their natural endowments qualify them to fill will be -assigned them. They must work for themselves, or we will make them work -for us. No inferior race of men can exist in these United States -without becoming subordinate to the will of the Anglo-Americans, or -foregoing many of the necessaries and comforts of life. They must either -be our equals or our dependents. It is so with the negroes in the South; -it is so with the Irish in the North; it was so with the Indians in New -England; and it will be so with the Chinese in California. The Indians, -it is true, would not submit to be enslaved; but they had to suffer -exile, hunger and death as a consequence of their intractability. -Certain it is, that the greater the diversity of colors and qualities of -men, the greater will be the strife and conflict of feeling. One party -will gain the ascendency, and dominate over the other. Our population -was already too heterogeneous before the Chinese came; but now another -adventitious ingredient has been added; and I should not wonder at all, -if the copper of the Pacific yet becomes as great a subject of discord -and dissension as the ebony of the Atlantic. However, the discussion and -consideration of these matters more properly devolve upon our public -functionaries, who, I presume, if loyal to their constituents and their -country, will not lightly regard them. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -CURSORY VIEWS. - - -California has features as distinct and peculiar as the Alps or the -Andes. It cannot be mistaken for any other country; it is like no other -region on the face of the earth. Being new, and in some respects -untried, the most various conjectures, and the most opposite opinions -have been expressed as to its future fortunes and ultimate destiny. A -few who have been successful in their schemes and undertakings, and -whose interests and existence are now blended with it, flatter -themselves that it is destined to become a great and flourishing state; -while, on the other hand, the great majority, who have been disappointed -in all their expectations, and thwarted in every attempt, pronounce it -an unmitigated cheat, and curse it bitterly as the cause of their ruin. -My own opinions are, I imagine, by this time pretty well understood. I -speak of the country as I have seen it, not as a mere passing traveler, -but as an attentive observer. I emigrated to it as much in search of -adventure as of profit; and, during the three years of my residence -within its borders, have had ample opportunities to explore and -scrutinize it as I desired. I am fully satisfied with my information -upon this subject. I have seen all of it that is worth seeing, and a -great deal besides. I crave no further knowledge of it than I now -possess. - -While there is any unoccupied land between the British boundaries of -Maine and the Mexican limits of Texas, between the Florida Reefs and the -Falls of St. Anthony, I would not advise any person to emigrate to -California for the purpose of bettering his worldly condition. I have, -indeed, no personal knowledge of the other divisions of land west of the -Rocky Mountains; yet an acquaintance with gentlemen of character and -veracity who have visited those sections, justifies the opinion that -none of them abound in those elements of exuberant and permanent -greatness so characteristic of the States east of the Rio Grande and the -Mississippi. Oregon and Washington territories, Utah and New Mexico are -tolerable countries, and, in some respects, superior to California; but -owing to the general inferiority of their natural advantages, they can -never become as powerful or important States as Louisiana or New York, -Georgia or Illinois. The Pacific side of the continent is, as a general -thing, far inferior to the Atlantic slope. - -In my judgment, the present condition and future prospects of -California, so far from offering inducements for additional immigration, -actually portend much poverty and suffering. The very fact that -thousands of men, some of whom have been in the country from three to -four years, are working for nothing but their board, is of itself -justifiable ground for this apprehension. More than a dozen stout, -sober, able-bodied men, who asked nothing in compensation for their -services but food, have applied to me for employment in a single day. I -have elsewhere remarked that many of the most menial and humiliating -situations about hotels, stores and private residences are filled by -these ill-fated men, who, if they had the means, would be glad to shake -off the dust of California from their feet, and return to the homes of -their youth, where peace, plenty and happiness are attainable by all. -Misery and despair go to bed with them at night, rise with them in the -morning and accompany them throughout the day; they have been grossly -deceived; “hope told them a flattering tale,” and broke her lying -promise; their hearts are sick with unrelenting and consuming sorrows. -Strangers among strangers, they have no friend to soothe or assist them -in the hour of misfortune; if they hunger, they must fast; if sickness -overtake them, death is their remedy. Depressed in spirits, and driven -to desperation by bitter and repeated calamities, they betake themselves -to the bottle for solace, become insane from extreme anxiety or -over-activity of the mind, or else, with bullet, knife, or poison, put -a summary end to their wretched lives. Such is the history of many a man -who has perished in that land of gold. - -They left their homes flushed with hope; those near and dear to them -imprinted the last kiss upon their cheeks, and bade them adieu with -heavy hearts and tearful eyes, but found consolation in the hope that -they would soon return. Those who escaped the many dangers of the -various routes and reached their destination, wrote back to their -friends immediately upon their arrival that all was well. The news was -received with ecstasy; heaven was thanked for their deliverance from the -perils of the trip; the neighbors were informed of the health and safety -of the adventurers; and for a few weeks all things promised well. In a -month or so another letter was anxiously looked for, but did not make -its appearance; then fears began to be entertained, and the unwelcome -thought would occasionally flash through the mind that all was not well. -Nor was it. Month after month slowly and gloomily passed away, without -bringing any tidings of the poor deluded wanderers; and it has now been -so long since they were heard from, that it is easier to reckon the time -by years than by months. Still their fate is wrapt in mystery which is -no more likely to be unraveled than is the fate of the President and her -crew. All that can be concluded is, that they lie some where within the -confines of California, with no monument to reveal the place of their -final slumber. - -The immigration to California has been too much like the rush of an -excited and impatient audience into a theatre, when it is known that a -favorite actor is about to perform. There has been too much scrambling, -too much crowding and pushing. Every body has heard that gold is -scattered over her hills and mountains; thousands covet it, and are -foolish enough to suppose that any body can get it. Without taking a -calm and deliberate view of the subject--without balancing both sides, -or counting the cost, they have suddenly abandoned their homes, and -rushed in disorder to the land over which hovered their visions of -wealth. They imagined that they had discovered the secret of fortune, -and, in their enthusiasm, immediately set out to realize their dreams. -They discovered, alas! too late, that their emigration was ill-timed and -unprofitable, that they had exchanged a good situation for a bad one, -and that immense sacrifices must be made before they could replace -themselves in their former position. - -No country can ever become truly great, unless it possesses abundant -agricultural resources; and as California is deficient in this as well -as in other respects, it is absurd to suppose that she will attract -attention longer than her mines pay for working. The banks of the -rivers, and the localities in the San Jose, Sacramento, and San Joaquin -valleys, form exceptions to this general sterility. There the ground is -low and moist, or easily irrigated, the soil is extremely fertile, and -produces vegetables, which, for size and powers of multiplication, have -probably never been equaled. These spots, however, are little more, in -comparison with the area of the State, than are the roads of a county to -the county itself; and they cannot, therefore, be depended upon to -supply the wants and necessities of the whole country, should it ever be -thickly settled throughout--an event which, for the very reason I have -mentioned above, I do not believe will ever take place. These valleys -and the banks of the rivers seem to have become the receptacle of nearly -all the virtue of the surrounding surface of the country. As a few -specimens of the vegetable monstrosities, the productions of these -fertile spots, that have come under my notice, I may mention a beet that -weighed forty-seven pounds; a cabbage, thirty-two pounds; a turnip, -twenty-six pounds; an Irish potato, seven pounds; and a water-melon, -sixty-four pounds. Onions, lettuce, radishes, and other horticultural -productions, also grow to an enormous size. Irish potatoes, however, I -believe, are the most prolific crop that can be planted. Indian corn is -cultivated to but little if any advantage. All of the arable parts of -the State are now settled; and farmers who go thither hereafter will -either have to return, or abandon altogether the idea of cultivating the -soil; for it will be impossible for them to make a subsistence out of -the sterile hills of the upland. - -That millions of dollars worth of gold have been taken from the mines, -and that there is a vast amount still remaining, no one pretends to -deny; but then it does not exist in the quantity that is generally -supposed. There is nothing more uncertain, as a business, than gold -mining in California. It is, indeed, like a lottery--more blanks than -prizes; and as every man has to take his chances, he must not feel too -much disappointed if his luck leaves him with the majority. A few make -themselves independently rich, and go home with flying colors; but where -one does it, there are forty or fifty, at least, who, though equally -sober, industrious and deserving, do not make more than their support, -and very frequently not even that. - -Half the stories afloat concerning “wealthy returned Californians” are -exaggerated beyond the power of tongue to describe. A case or two in -point:--A young man from the West, who had been mining between two and -three years, and with whom I had become acquainted, started home on a -certain occasion, with about one hundred and sixty dollars over and -above his expenses. In speaking of his friends, I asked him what he was -going to tell them when he got home. “Oh!” says he, “I shall not admit -that I have made so little; for, if I do, they’ll accuse me of having -been indolent, of gambling, of drinking, or some other disreputable -thing that I have never been guilty of; so I’ll give out that I have -made twelve or fifteen thousand dollars; and about the time I shall have -got them all in a good humor, I’ll take an excursion down to New -Orleans, and thence to South America, where I am determined hereafter to -seek my fortune.” Thus, although he was honorable, and not addicted to -habits of dissipation, he had not the nerve to tell the real truth of -his own success. This shows how easily these exaggerated rumors are set -agoing, and public ignorance imposed upon. The further people live from -California, the more credulous are they of golden legends; and I am -persuaded that the young man above alluded to had no difficulty in -making his neighbors in the West believe he was worth whatever amount he -chose to tell them he had made. Extravagant as this story may sound, it -is not without a parallel. A man, who had accumulated from three to four -thousand dollars, returned on a visit to his friends in the East; and, -to test the credulity of the people, he put out the report that he had -made five hundred thousand dollars. His story was received by the -gaping neighbors without a doubt; and all at once our adventurer found -himself the invited guest of nabobs who never knew him before he went to -California, though they had seen him hundreds of times. I cannot close -these remarks without offering a word of advice to the marriageable -ladies. If you seek a rich husband, do not form a matrimonial alliance -with an El Dorado Crœsus; for, in nine cases out of ten, a “wealthy -Californian” is a poor man. - -Admitting all that is claimed for California in regard to her mineral -wealth, it affords no reason why every body should rush thither; nor is -it any argument that it will ever become the land of promise which an -enthusiastic imagination may picture. It is already a pandemonium; and -it does not clearly appear how it can become an elysium. - -The benefit of mines of the precious metals to the country in which they -are found, is still an open question. The weight of authority is against -them. The history of Mexico and Peru, in this hemisphere, as well as the -new chapter which California is opening, cannot be quoted in their -favor. It seems to be decreed that, the more oblique the route by which -gold is reached, the greater is its value; while the more directly it is -acquired, the more mischievous is it to the morals and the material -wealth of a nation. If, as Joseph Bonaparte so happily remarked, “gold, -in its last analysis, is the sweat of the poor and the blood of the -brave,” the more of these ingredients contribute to produce it, the -richer is the result. The concurrent testimony of all ages proves that -those nations who obtain their wealth by the indirect methods of -agriculture, manufactures and commerce, are more happy and more -prosperous than those who dig their treasures directly from the earth. -This result is partly brought about by the great diversity of -occupations which spring up in such a state of society, and give -employment to all classes of the community: whereas, in a mining region, -rich only in the precious metals, the resources of labor are fewer, and -its tasks less diversified. The moral effect of sudden riches must also -be taken into consideration. Few men can gaze undazzled at the splendor -of a large fortune: and the more rapidly they acquire it, the more -likely are they to grow dizzy in its contemplation. It seems to require -time for a man to become habituated to the sight of wealth, in order to -enable him to enjoy it with ease or dignity. - -We cannot, therefore, conclude that the mere presence of gold is -sufficient to advance California to a high position among her sister -commonwealths. She produces the circulating medium of the country, it is -true: and the intrinsic value of that medium causes the world to -overlook the cost of its acquisition. We have endeavored, however, to -set people right on that subject in the chapter entitled “The -Balance-Sheet,” and shall not repeat what was there said. - -We will not urge any complaint against the climate; for, in this -respect, all classes and conditions of men can be suited, whether from -the burning regions of Central Africa, or from the snow-capped mountains -of Russian America. Along the southern line of the State it is -oppressively hot, and, as a matter of course, is somewhat enervating; -but in the north and north-east, among the mountains, it is extremely -cold; and snow, to the depth of from two to ten feet, is found there as -late as August. Large quantities of this snow are brought down to the -cities, a distance of more than two hundred miles, by teamsters, and -sold as a substitute for ice. The northern and southern sections of the -State are, as yet, but little inhabited or known, except by the natives, -who, like all other North American Indians, are ignorant of any thing -beyond the limits of their own hunting-ground. In the middle or central -parts of the State, the climate, as a general thing, is delightful, and, -withal, highly invigorating and salubrious. Around San Francisco, -particularly, during the winter season, when it does not rain, the -weather is unusually mild and pleasant; and I have often heard it -compared to the climate of Italy. It is not so agreeable in summer, -because the dust and winds prevail to such a decree, throughout the dry -season, as to become a source of extreme discomfort. The main objection -I have to the California climate, as stated in a previous chapter, is -the division of the seasons into six months of dry weather, which burns -and scorches the earth so severely that nothing will vegetate; and six -months of wet weather, during which time the rain falls so hard and so -fast, that it is quite impossible to perform out-door labor. These two -seasons are general--that is, they affect the entire State; but the -temperature of the atmosphere varies very much, according to locality. -In and about the latitude of San Francisco, it is rarely ever too cold -or too hot: though the weather frequently changes, three or four times -in a single day, from calm and warm to boisterous and cool, and from -boisterous and cool to calm and warm again. In other places, where the -days are intolerably close and sultry, it is necessary to have one or -two blankets to sleep under at night. The remarkable aridity and -unfruitfulness of the country at large, may be ascribed to the -protracted drought of the summer, which begins in April, and lasts until -about the middle of November. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -SUNDAY IN CALIFORNIA. - - -The Sabbath in California is kept, when kept at all, as a day of -hilarity and bacchanalian sports, rather than as a season of holy -meditation or religious devotion. Horse-racing, cock-fighting, -cony-hunting, card-playing, theatrical performances, and other elegant -amusements are freely engaged in on this day. If I remember correctly, -it was about two months after my arrival in the land of gold and misery, -that I had the misfortune to become acquainted with a renegade down-east -Congregationalist preacher, who invited me to accompany him, on the -following Sunday, in a deer-chase. Throughout the country, and in the -mines, shooting-matches and bear-hunting afford pleasant pastimes; -gambling is also practiced to a considerable extent, though not so much -as on other days. But we shall probably learn more of the manner in -which Sunday is spent, if we confine our attention to one of the larger -cities, San Francisco, for example. Here regattas, duels and -prize-fights are favorite diversions; and the Lord’s day seldom passes -without witnessing one or the other, or both. Here, too, for a long -time, gaming was licensed on Sundays, as it is yet on week days; but -recently the city fathers have passed an ordinance prohibiting the -desecration, and I believe their example has been followed by three or -four of the other cities. There is no State law upon the subject. - -Connected with a tippling-house, on the corner of Washington and -Montgomery streets, there is one of the finest billiard-saloons in the -United States. It is very large, and magnificently decorated, has twelve -tables, and is furnished, I am informed, at a cost of twenty-five -thousand dollars. To this place hundreds of infatuated men betake -themselves every Sunday; and it is an unusual thing, at any time, to -find one of the tables unoccupied. Every day of the week, from breakfast -time in the morning till twelve o’clock at night, this saloon, like many -others of a like kind, is thronged; but the crowds are particularly -large on Sunday, because people have more leisure on that day. Though, -in this particular place, they are not allowed to gamble publicly on the -Sabbath, they lose and win as much money in the way of secret wagers as -they do openly on any other day. - -What can we expect but an abuse of the Sabbath, when we take into -account the contrariety of characters, tastes, dispositions and -religions here huddled together? When we scrutinize society, we find -that some of its members, the Chinese and other pagans for instance, -know nothing at all of our system or division of time, and that they -are, therefore, absolutely ignorant of the meaning of the word Sunday. -There is no unity of thought, feeling or sentiment here; no oneness of -purpose, policy or action. There is no common interest; every man is for -himself, and himself alone. Society is composed of elements too varied -and dissimilar;--it is a heterogeneous assemblage of rivals and -competitors, who know no sympathy, and recognize no principle, save that -of personal profit and individual emolument. Nearly all colors and -qualities of mankind are congregated here. The great human family is, as -it were, sampled and its specimens formed into one society, each -communicating to the other his own peculiar habits, and each contending -for the same object--the acquisition of gold. It is manifest, therefore, -that there can be but little concert or harmony of action. Masquerade -balls, cotillion parties and jig dances fill up the list of Sunday -diversions. On Pacific street alone, the most notoriously profligate -thoroughfare in the city, there are from twelve to fifteen dance-houses, -in which the terpsichorean art is practiced every night during the week, -but usually with greater zest and animation on Sunday nights. These -fandangoes are principally under the superintendence or management of -Mexican girls, of whom there is no small number in San Francisco and -other cities of the State. Before I ever saw any of the Mexican ladies, -I had heard the most glowing descriptions of their ravishing beauty; but -I must either discredit the accounts, or else conclude that my ideas of -female beauty are very imperfect, for I have never yet beheld one of -them who, according to my standard of good looks, was really beautiful. -Their pumpkin hues and slovenly deportment could never awaken any -admiration in me, even in California. - -Bonnets among them are quite unknown. Half the time they go bare-headed -through the streets and to church, just as they do about their premises; -but most of them have a long, narrow shawl, which is sometimes worn over -the head, as well as the shoulders. This shawl is, in fact, an almost -indispensable article of apparel, especially with the better classes, -who never appear in a public place, whether in winter or summer, without -it. They wrap it around their face, head and shoulders so ingeniously -that spectators can not obtain a glimpse of any part of their features, -save the forehead, eyes and nose; the mouth, chin and cheeks are -cautiously concealed. There is a gross lack of consistency among these -women. Notwithstanding they engage in the lowest debaucheries throughout -the week, they are strict attendants of the Catholic church; and dozens -of them may be seen any Sunday on their way to matins, mass or vespers, -clad in habiliments of the greatest possible variety. If they can only -get one fine, fashionable garment they think it makes amends for the bad -material and ill shape of all the others. Nor are they particular to -have their whole person clothed at the same time. I don’t think I have -ever seen one of them fully attired in my life; something was always -wanting. Sometimes they may be seen promenading the streets, robed in -the richest silks that were ever woven in Chinese looms, but when you -gaze down at their lower extremities you discover them stockingless, -their feet thrust into a pair of coarse slippers, which expose to view a -pair of rusty heels that look as if no ablution had been performed upon -them for at least three moons. The Mexicans, however, in most cases, are -fond of aquatic exercises; and they have several bathing establishments -in San Francisco, for the accommodation of the public, (at one dollar -per head for each bath,) as well as for their own convenience and -gratification. Unless I have been misinformed, it is a custom with the -proprietors, when a gentleman retires to take his bath, to dispatch a -female servant to his room to scour and scrub him off! As I resided near -an American bath-house, I always patronized it in preference, and did -not acquaint myself with Mexican usages in this respect. - -Lately, however, women of pure and lofty characters have emigrated to -California, and, since their arrival, there has been a gradual and -steady improvement of morals among the people, and the Sabbath is now -much better observed than it used to be. Soon after their arrival, -schools and churches began to spring up, and social circles were formed; -refinement dawned upon a debauched and reckless community, decorum took -the place of obscenity; kind and gentle words were heard to fall from -the lips of those who before had been accustomed to taint every phrase -with an oath; and smiles displayed themselves upon countenances to which -they had long been strangers. Woman accomplished all this, and we should -be ungrateful reprobates indeed if we did not honor, esteem and love her -for it. Had I received no other benefit from my trip to California than -the knowledge I have gained, inadequate as it may be, of woman’s many -virtues and perfections, I should account myself well repaid; and I -thank heaven that I was induced to embark in an enterprise which -resulted in such a collateral remuneration. This I am constrained to -say, because I fear I should never have had a full appreciation of her -merits, had I not witnessed her happy influence in this benighted land. -It was only after leaving a home where her constant presence, her -soothing and animating society, appeared as a matter of course, and -removing to a sphere where she had a better opportunity of displaying -her power, that I could estimate her real worth. - - “From woman’s eyes this doctrine I derive: - They sparkle still the right Promethean fire; - They are the books, the arts, the academies, - That show, contain, and nourish all the world. - - O, then, - For wisdom’s sake, a word that all men love; - Or for love’s sake, a word that loves all men; - Or for men’s sake, the authors of these women; - Or for women’s sake, by whom we men are men, - Let us love women, and ourselves be true, - Or else we harm ourselves, and wrong them too.” - -With the generous assistance and co-operation of the gentler sex, the -various religious denominations have succeeded in establishing for -themselves suitable places of worship in most of the cities and larger -towns throughout the State. San Francisco now contains fourteen -churches, two of which are Presbyterian, two Congregational, one -Unitarian, three Methodist, two Baptist, two Episcopal, and two Roman -Catholic. The Swedenborgians, Universalists, Mormons, and sundry minor -sects occasionally hold service in public halls; and, if I recollect -aright, the Jews have two synagogues. There is also a pagan temple, -where the Chinese pay their adorations to Boodh, or to some other -imaginary deity, whenever they experience a religious emotion. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -BEAR AND BULL FIGHT. - - -It was a beautiful Sabbath morning in November, when the bells aroused -me from a dreamy sleep; but before arising from my couch, being lazy and -inclined to muse, I allowed my fancy to recall my departure from -Carolina with all its attendant circumstances. The hour alone would have -suggested such meditations, for it was on a dewy morning that I bade -farewell to the loved ones of my far-off home. I recalled the yellow -lustre of the sun pouring his floods of golden light over the glistening -tree-tops; the tender adieus, the streaming eyes, the murmured blessing. -I remembered the sadness of my heart as I thought of the distance that -would soon separate me from the friends and companions of my youth, and -the high hopes which soothed my pain. - -As I was thus pondering I heard the sound of drum, fife and clarionet; -and stepping to the window to ascertain what was the meaning of this -Sunday music echoing through the streets of San Francisco, I saw a -tremendous grizzly bear, caged, and drawn by four spirited horses -through the various streets. Tacked to each side of the cage were large -posters, which read as follows:-- - - FUN BREWING--GREAT ATTRACTION! - - HARD FIGHTING TO BE DONE! - - TWO BULLS AND ONE BEAR! - - The citizens of San Francisco and vicinity are respectfully - informed that at _four o’clock this afternoon, Sunday, Nov. 14th_, - at _Mission Dolores_, a _rich treat_ will be prepared for them, and - that they will have an opportunity of enjoying a fund of the - _raciest sport_ of the season. TWO LARGE BULLS AND A BEAR, all _in - prime condition for fighting_, and under the management of - _experienced Mexicans_, will contribute to the _amusement of the - audience_. - - - Programme--In two Acts. - - ACT I. - - BULL AND BEAR--“HERCULES” AND “TROJAN,” - - Will be conducted into the arena, and there _chained together_, - where they will fight _until one kills the other_. - - JOSE IGNACIO, } - PICO GOMEZ, } Managers. - - - ACT II. - - The great bull, “BEHEMOTH,” will be _let loose in the arena_, where - he will be _attacked by two of the most celebrated and expert - picadors of Mexico_, and finally _dispatched after the true Spanish - method_. - - Admittance $3--Tickets for sale at the door. - - JOAQUIN VATRETO, } - JESUS ALVAREZ, } Managers. - - - -Mission Dolores, the place where these cruel sports were held, is a -small village about two miles south-west of San Francisco, which was -first settled by a couple of Roman Catholic priests during the American -Revolution. It is contended by some that this was the first settlement -effected by white persons in Upper California. The buildings are but one -story in height, covered with tiles, and are constructed of _adobe_ or -sun-dried clay. With regard to the general aspect of the place, it is -distressingly shabby and gloomy. For scores of years, the inhabitants, -who are a queer compound of Spanish and Indian blood, have lived here in -poverty, ignorance and inactivity. But I am digressing. What was I to do -about the bull-fight? I had never witnessed such an exhibition, and -consequently had a great desire to see it. It was Sunday, however, and -how could I reconcile the instructions of a pious mother with an -inclination so much at variance with the divine command? Well, without -entering into any thing like a defence of my determination, suffice it -to say that I made up my mind to go, and went. Anxious, however, to -moderate or diminish the sin as much as possible, I determined to hear a -sermon first, and go to the bull-fight afterwards. For the sake of -somewhat condensing the events of the day, I concluded to leave the city -immediately, and repair to the Mission, there to attend an antique -Catholic church, which has been built nearly three-quarters of a -century. - -Starting off with this view, I arrived within hearing of the priests’ -voices about the time they began to chant the service, and on entering -the rickety old church, much to my gratification, I learned that it was -an extraordinary occasion with them, and that a deal of unusual display -might be expected. The rite or ceremony of high mass was to be -performed. Monks and friars from the monasteries of Mexico were in -attendance; and the church was thronged with a large and heterogeneous -crowd. - -Four o’clock, the hour appointed for the fight between the bear and the -bull, having arrived, a few taps by the drummer, and some popular airs -played by the other musicians, announced that the amphitheatre, which -fronted the church and stood but a few yards from it, was open for the -reception of those who desired admission. I made my way to the -ticket-office, and handed three dollars to the collector, who placed in -my hand a voucher, which gained me access to an eligible seat within the -inclosure. I found myself among the first who entered; and as it was -some time before the whole audience assembled, I had ample opportunities -to scan the characters who composed it, and to examine the arrangement -and disposition of things around me. - -The seats were very properly elevated so high above the arena that no -danger was likely to result from the furious animals; and I suppose five -thousand persons could have been conveniently accommodated, though only -about three-fourths of that number were present. Among the auditory, I -noticed many Spanish maids and matrons, who manifested as much -enthusiasm and delight in anticipation of what was to follow as the most -enthusiastic sportsman on the ground. Crying children, too, in the arms -of self-satisfied and admiring mothers, were there, full of noise and -mischief, and a nuisance, as they always are, in theatres and churches, -to all sober-minded people. Of men, there were all sizes, colors and -classes, such as California, and California alone, can bring together. -There was but one, however, who attracted my particular attention on -this occasion. I had no recollection of having ever seen him before that -day. He sat a few feet from me on my left. There was nothing uncommon -about his form or features. The expression of his countenance was -neither intellectual nor amiable. His acquirements and attainments were -doubtless limited, for he demeaned himself rudely, and exhibited but -little dignity of manner. It was the strange metamorphosis he had -undergone since the morning which won for him my special observation. -Only four hours had elapsed since I saw him officiating at the altar and -feasting upon a substance which he believed to be the actual flesh and -blood of Jesus Christ, who died more than eighteen hundred years ago! In -the forenoon of the Lord’s day, he took upon himself the character of -God’s vicegerent, invested himself with sacerdotal robes, assumed a -sanctified visage, and discharged the sacred duties of his office. In -the afternoon of the same Sabbath, he doffed his holy orders, sanctioned -merciless diversions, mingled on terms of equality with gamblers and -desperados, and held himself in readiness to exclaim Bravo! at the -finale of a bull-fight. - -By this time the whooping, shouting and stamping of the spectators -attested that they were eager and restless to behold the brutal combat; -and an overture by a full brass band, which had been chartered for the -occasion, gave them assurance that their wishes would soon be complied -with. The music ceased; the trap-door of the bull’s cage was raised, and -“Hercules,” huge, brawny and wild, leaped into the centre of the -inclosed arena, shaking his head, switching his tail, and surveying the -audience with a savage stare that would have intimidated the stoutest -hearts, had he not been strongly barred below them. His eyes glistened -with defiance, and he seemed to crave nothing so much as an enemy upon -which he might wreak his vengeance. He contorted his body, lashed his -back, snuffed, snorted, pawed, bellowed, and otherwise behaved so -frantically, that I was fearful he could not contain himself until his -antagonist was prepared. Just then, two picadors--Mexicans on -horseback--entered the arena, with lassos in hand. Taurus welcomed them -with an attitude of attack, and was about to rush upon one of their -horses with the force of a battering-ram, when, with most commendable -dexterity, the picador who was farthest off lassoed him by the horns, -and foiled him in his mad design. As quick as thought, the horseman from -whom the bull’s attention had been diverted, threw his lasso around his -horns also; and in this way they brought him to a stand midway between -them. A third person, a footman, now ran in, and seizing his tail, -twisted it until he fell flat on his side; when, by the help of an -additional assistant, the end of a long log-chain was fastened to his -right hind-leg. In this prostrated condition he was kept until the other -end of the chain was secured to the left fore-leg of the bear, as we -shall now describe. - -Running a pair of large clasping-tongs under Bruin’s trap-door, which -was lifted just enough for the purpose, they grasped his foot, pulled it -out, and held it firmly, while one of the party bound the opposite end -of the chain fast to his leg with thongs. This done, they hoisted the -trap-door sufficiently high to admit of his egress, when out stalked -“Trojan,” apparently too proud and disdainful to vouchsafe a glance upon -surrounding objects. He was a stalwart, lusty-looking animal, the -largest grizzly bear I had ever seen, weighing full fourteen hundred -pounds. It was said that he was an adept in conflicts of this nature, -as he then enjoyed the honorable reputation of having delivered three -bulls from the vicissitudes of this life. It is probable, however, that -his previous victories had flushed and inspired him with an -unwarrantable degree of confidence; for he seemed to regard the bull -more as a thing to be despised than as an equal or dangerous rival. -Though he gave vent to a few ferocious growls, it was evident that he -felt more inclination to resist an attack than to make one. With the -bull, the case was very different; he was of a pugnacious disposition, -and had become feverish for a foe. Now he had one. An adversary of -gigantic proportions and great prowess stood before him; and as soon as -he spied him, he moved backward, the entire length of the chain, which -jerked the bear’s foot and made him rend the air with a most fearful -howl, that served but the more to incense the bull. Shaking his head -maliciously, casting it down, and throwing up his tail, he plunged at -the bear with a force and fury that were irresistible. The collision was -terrible, completely overthrowing his ponderous enemy and laying him -flat on his back. Both were injured, but neither was conquered; both -mutually recoiled to prepare again to strike for victory. With eyes -gleaming with fire, and full of resolution, the bull strode proudly over -his prostrate enemy, and placed himself in position to make a second -attack. But now the bear was prepared to receive him; he had recovered -his feet wild with rage, and he then appeared to beckon to the bull to -meet him without delay. The bull needed no challenge; he was, if -possible, more impetuous than the bear, and did not lose any more time -than it required to measure the length of the chain. Again, with -unabated fierceness, he darted at the bear, and, as before, struck him -with an impetus that seemed to have been borrowed from Jove’s own -thunderbolt; as he came in contact with the bear, that amiable animal -grappled him by the neck, and squeezed him so hard that he could -scarcely save himself from suffocation. The bull now found himself in a -decidedly uncomfortable situation; the bear had him as he wanted him. -Powerful as he was, he could not break loose from Bruin. A vice could -not have held him more firmly. The strong arms of the bear hugged him in -a ruthless and desperate embrace. It was a stirring sight to see these -infuriated and muscular antagonists struggling to take each other’s -life. It was enough to make a heathen generalissimo shudder to look at -them. How ought it to have been, then, with enlightened civilians? This -question I shall not answer; it was easy enough to see how it was with -the Spanish ladies--they laughed, cheered, encored, clapped their hands, -waved their handkerchiefs, and made every other sign which was -characteristic of pleasure and delight. The contending brutes still -strove together. Hercules quaked under the torturing hugs of Trojan. -Trojan howled under the violent and painful perforations of Hercules. -But the bear did not rely alone upon the efficacy of his arms; his -massive jaws and formidable teeth were brought into service, and with -them he inflicted deep wounds in his rival’s flesh. He seized the bull -between the ears and nostrils, and crushed the bones with such force -that we could distinctly hear them crack! Nor were the stunning butts of -the bull his only means of defence; his horns had been sharpened -expressly for the occasion, and with these he lacerated the bear most -frightfully. It was a mighty contest--a desperate struggle for victory! - -Finally, however, fatigued, exhausted, writhing with pain and weltering -in sweat and gore, they waived the quarrel and separated, as if by -mutual consent. Neither was subdued; yet both felt a desire to suspend, -for a time at least, all further hostilities. The bull, now exhausted -and panting, cast a pacific glance towards the bear, and seemed to sue -for an armistice; the bear, bleeding and languid after his furious -contest, raised his eyes to the bull, and seemed to assent to the -proposition. But, alas! man, cruel man, more brutal than the brutes -themselves, would not permit them to carry out their pacific -intentions. The two attendants or managers, Ignacio and Gomez, stepped -up behind them, goading them with spears till they again rushed upon -each other, and fought with renewed desperation. During this scuffle, -the bull shattered the lower jaw of the bear, and we could see the -shivered bones dangling from their bloody recesses! Oh, heaven! what a -horrible sight. How the blood curdled in my veins. Pish! what a timid -fellow I am, to allow myself to be agitated by such a trifle as this! -Shall I tremble at what the ladies applaud? Forbid it, Mars! I’ll be as -spirited as they. But, to wind up this part of our story, neither the -bear nor the bull could stand any longer--their limbs refused to support -their bodies; they had worried and lacerated each other so much that -their strength had completely failed, and they dropped upon the earth, -gasping as if in the last agony. While in this helpless condition the -chain was removed from their feet, horses were hitched to them, and they -were dragged without the arena, there to end their miseries in death. - -The second act of the afternoon’s entertainment was now to be performed. -It would be unnecessary, and painful to the feelings of sensitive -readers, to dwell long upon this murderous sport. It was a mere -repetition, in another form, of the disgusting horrors of that which -preceded it. Fully satiated with the barbarities I had already -witnessed, I am not sure that I should have staid to see any more, had -it not been for the peculiar sensations which the cognomen of one of the -actors awakened within me. By reference to the advertisement, it will be -perceived that the two managers of this part of the proceedings were -Joaquin Vatreto and Jesus Alvarez. The latter name sounded strangely in -my ears. It occurred to me that it was peculiarly out of place in its -present connection. What! Jesus at a bull-fight on Sunday, and not only -at it, but one of the prime movers and abettors in it! - -But now to the fight. All things being ready, the great bull, Behemoth, -was freed from restraint, and sprang with frantic bounds into the midst -of the arena. He bore a suitable appellation, for he was a monster in -size and formidable in courage. Two picadors, Joaquin Vatreto and Jesus -Alvarez, mounted on fiery steeds, with swords in hand, now entered and -confronted him. Behemoth looked upon this sudden invasion as an -intolerable insult. His territory was already too limited for so -powerful a monarch as he considered himself, and he could not think of -dividing it with others. The sight of these unceremonious intruders -inflamed him with such rancor that he could no longer restrain himself; -but lowering his head and tossing his tail aloft, he rushed furiously at -them. They evaded his charge. The horses were well trained, and seemed -to enjoy the sport, and to pride themselves upon their adroit manœuvres. -But both they and their riders had enough to do to evade the fury of the -enraged brute. Each successive bout became more animated and fierce. The -foiling of the bull’s purposes only exasperated him the more. There was -not room enough in his capacious body to contain his effervescing wrath. -The foam which he spurted from his mouth and nose fell upon the earth -like enormous flakes of snow. Faster and faster, and with truer aim, he -charged his foes. At last one of the horses, in attempting to wheel or -turn suddenly round, stumbled, and the bull, taking advantage of the -event, gored him so desperately in the abdomen that a part of his -entrails protruded from the wounds and trailed almost upon the ground! -This was truly a distressing scene. I could have wept for the poor, -innocent charger, but in this case tears were of no avail. - -One of the picadors now alighted, and engaged the attention of the bull, -while the other led the two horses outside the inclosure. When this was -done, a man on foot, called a matador, dressed in close-fitting, -fantastic garments, with a heavy sword in his right hand, and a small -red flag in his left, entered the arena and bowed first to the bull and -then to the audience. It was now a matter of life and death between the -bull and the matador. One or the other, or both, must die. If the bull -did not kill the man, the man would kill the bull; if the man killed the -bull, the man was to live, but if the bull killed the man, the bull was -to die; so that death was sure to overtake the bull in any event. The -action commenced, and waxed hotter and hotter every moment, and it was -only by uncommon skill and agility that the matador could shun the -frenzied charges of the bull. Had it not been for the flag which he -carried in his hand, and which enabled him to deceive his antagonist by -seeming to hold it directly before him, when in reality he inclined it -to the right or to the left, as his safety dictated, the bull would -unquestionably have dashed his brains out, thrown him over his head, or -gored him to death. Nothing could have irritated or vexed the bull more -than did the sight of this red flag, and he made all his assaults upon -it, supposing, no doubt, that he would strike the mischief behind it, -but the agile matador always took special care to spring aside and save -himself from the deadly stroke. After tormenting, teasing and chafing -him for about a quarter of an hour in this way, six keen javelins or -darts, with miniature flags attached, were handed to the matador, who -ventured to face the bull, and never quit him until he had planted them -all in his shoulders, three in each. Stung to madness, the animal -reared, rolled and plunged in the most frightful manner. Soon, however, -he was on his feet again, pursuing his persecutor with renewed zeal. - -The fates, however, were against him. He could not comprehend, and -consequently could not foil the crafty designs of his adversary, who -completely deceived him with the flag. Night was now coming on, and it -being time to close the performance, the matador, placing himself in a -pompous attitude near the south side of the arena, challenged Behemoth -to the last and decisive engagement by waving the flag briskly before -him. The bull, exasperated beyond description, needed no additional -incentive to urge him to meet the enemy. With a force apparently equal -to that of a rhinoceros, and with the celerity of a reindeer, he rushed -at the matador, who, stepping just sufficiently to the left to avoid -him, thrust the sword into his breast up to the hilt. The matador, -leaving this sword buried in the bull’s body, now laid hold of another, -which was on hand for the purpose, and stabbed him three times in a more -vital part, when down he fell at his victor’s feet, dead. Then jumping -upon the carcass of his slain rival, the matador brandished his sword, -doffed his hat, bowed his compliments, and retired, amid the deafening -plaudits of a wolfish audience. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -SACRAMENTO. - - -Sacramento is situated on the river and in the heart of the valley of -the same name, about one hundred miles north-east of San Francisco. It -is the second city in the State in size, population and commerce, and -contains from eight to ten thousand inhabitants--being nearly one fourth -as large as San Francisco. It bears to San Francisco much the same -relation that Columbia does to Charleston, or Albany to New York. From -two to six steamboats daily ply between the two cities, conveying -passengers and merchandise; and a vast deal of heavy freight is shipped -in sailing vessels, which usually make the outward and return trip in a -little over a week. The banks of the river are very low, and the current -moves sluggishly towards the ocean. Flood-tide ascends almost as high as -this place. The country, for twenty-five miles on either side of the -river, is an unbroken plain, level as a floor, and would be invaluable -for agricultural purposes were it not for the great freshets of the -winter and spring, and the incessant drought of the summer and fall--two -serious disadvantages to the farmer. Sometimes the whole valley is -completely overflowed and remains under water for two or three -consecutive months, on which occasions it presents the appearance of a -vast lake. Many new immigrants, who are ignorant of the freaks of -California seasons, arriving here in the summer, settle in this valley, -and thank their stars that they were guided to an unclaimed plat of so -much promise. But when winter comes and the windows of heaven are -opened, and the river rises, and the cattle are drowned and the houses -swept off, and they themselves compelled to fly to the upland to save -their lives, they begin to discover the gloomy fact that they have been -caught in a snare. - -The site of the city, so smooth and flat, would be one of the most -beautiful in the world, but for the lack of sufficient elevation. For -the first two or three years after its settlement the inhabitants did -nothing to protect it from the floods, but afterwards, becoming tired of -navigating the streets in scows and skiffs, and willing to retain some -of their goods and chattels about their premises, they built a temporary -levee, which has since kept them tolerably dry. It is laid out with the -most perfect regularity; its blocks and streets being as uniform and -methodical as the squares of a chess-board. Those streets which run from -north to south have alphabetical names, beginning with A, and ending -with Z. Only four of them, I, J, K and L, are popular; the others -command no business whatever, and but very few dwellings are situated on -them. The cross-streets, or those which run from east to west, are -designated arithmetically, commencing with 1st and continuing on in -regular succession. Beyond 7th street, however, there are no buildings -of any importance. - -At present the legislature meets in this place; but as that august body -is possessed of a remarkably roving disposition, having held its -sessions at four different places within the last four years, at an -extra expense to the State of nearly two hundred thousand dollars, it is -yet uncertain whether this will be determined upon as the permanent -capital. There is no capitol or state-house, nor is it likely that -California will ever be able to build one while its finances are so -recklessly managed. The receipts and expenditures of the State have, -from the organization of its government to the present time, been -intrusted to men who, to say nothing of their dishonesty, were as -ignorant of the uses of money as a prodigal minor. Consequently they -have entailed a public debt upon the people of more than three millions -of dollars without effecting any general improvements excepting a marine -hospital. This distinguished body, which now holds its deliberations in -the court-house, contains some of the most precious scamps that ever -paid devotion to the god of pelf; and, were it not that I have no wish -to deal in personalities, I could here mention names which are -notoriously infamous all over the Atlantic States. Are such men capable -of devising measures for the public weal, or fit to enact laws for the -commonwealth? Whether fit or unfit, they are about the only class of -persons who are intrusted with the functions of legislation in this -abominable land of concentrated rascality. The people of California, as -a general thing, would as soon elect an honest, upright man to office, -as Italian banditti would choose a moralist for their captain. No one -here can be successful unless he assimilates himself to the people; he -must carouse with villains, attend Sunday horse-races and bull-fights, -and adapt himself to every species of depravity and dissipation. - -Thus must a man discipline himself before he can receive the support and -patronage of the public. It matters not what his occupation may be, -whether merchant, mechanic, lawyer or doctor, he is sure to be -ostracized, if he stands aloof from the vices and follies of the -populace. Of course there are a few exceptions. Some men, thank heaven, -have an innate abhorrence of every thing that savors of meanness or -vulgarity, and they have nerve enough to cling to their principles at -all times and in all places. No earthly power, even if backed by -reinforcements from the infernal regions, could make them swerve from -their fidelity to truth and justice. They have clearly defined ideas of -right and wrong, and regulate their lives and conduct accordingly. They -understand their duty, and endeavor to perform it. They see the evils of -society, condemn and eschew them. There are a few such men in -California, but they are discountenanced, neglected, sneered at, and -flouted with opprobrious epithets. They are in bad odor; the majority is -against them. The scoundrels are in power, and they have wrecked the -country. To-day the State is lawless, penniless and powerless. Such is -the effect of the union of two bad things--a bad people and a bad -country. It was necessary in the first place, to give even a passable -character to the State, that the administration of affairs should have -been committed to men of pre-eminent sagacity; but instead of pursuing -this policy, the common interests have been confided to political -charlatans, whose actions in every instance have been detrimental to the -interests of the country. As a poor client suffers in the hands of a -pettifogger, or as a patient laboring under an obscure and dangerous -disease, sinks under the treatment of a quack, so has this poor, sick -California suffered and sunk through the agency of her knavish managers. - -Leaving these wire-pulling senators and hireling assemblymen, let us -take a short stroll through one or two of the principal streets. We -shall not observe any thing either curious or commendable in the styles -of architecture. The houses are low, rarely exceeding two stories in -height, and are built mostly of wood in the very cheapest manner. All -the lumber used in their construction was brought from Oregon, first to -San Francisco, and thence reshipped to this place. Here and there stands -a plain but uncommonly stout and substantial brick store. I have never -seen any buildings in the Atlantic States equal, in durability and -security against fire, to the brick structures in California. They must -build them so, for reasons heretofore given. Stone is not used at all; -there is none in the vicinity. - -As we wend our way through the town, we pass dozens of miserable, filthy -little hotels, in any of which we can procure a bad meal for a dollar. A -palatable dinner in one of the more respectable hotels will cost us -twice that amount. We shall be considerably amused at the queer and -unique canvas signs nailed over the doors of some of the dirty little -huts and shanties around us. One of the taverns announces that it has -“Tip-top Accommodations for Man and Beast;” at another we can find “Good -Fare, and Plenty of it;” a third promises “Rest for the Weary and -Storage for Trunks;” a fourth invites us to “Come in the Inn, and take a -Bite;” a fifth informs us that “Eating is done here;” a sixth assures -us that “We have Rich Viands and Mellow Drinks;” while a seventh -admonishes us to “Replenish the Stomach in our House.” A bar, at which -all kinds of liquors, raw and mixed, pure and sophisticated, are dealt -out, is attached to each of these establishments; and it is generally a -greater source of profit to the proprietor than the table. Small straw -cots, with coarse blankets, which have never been submitted to any -cleansing process, are provided for the guests to sleep on; and when -they retire, they seldom remove any of their clothes, except their -coats, and sometimes not even those. In the morning, when they rise to -perform their ablutions, a single wash-pan answers for all, and one -towel, redolent of a week’s wiping, serves every guest. - -More than two-thirds of the population of the northern part of the State -lay in their supplies of provisions, clothing and mining implements at -this place; and we shall notice several teams and pack-trains in the -streets, loading and preparing to start on their journey. Mules and oxen -are chiefly used, though for hauling short distances over good roads -horses are employed. Some of the more remote mining districts, say two -hundred miles from this place, are so rugged and mountainous that it is -impossible to reach them with wagons or other vehicles, and the only -means of transporting merchandise is upon the backs of mules. These -hybrids, unamiable as is their appearance, are truly valuable for this -purpose; they carry ponderous burdens, walk with ease upon the brink of -a precipice, and can be kept in good serviceable condition by provender -on which a horse would starve. After making a few trips they become very -tractable, and it requires only four or five men to manage fifty or -sixty of them. The packers have but little trouble with them, after -strapping the loads on their backs and starting them off. They do not go -abreast, but each follows closely behind another, Indian fashion; and -they will travel patiently in this way from morning till night, rarely -ever attempting a stampede. - -Between the petty merchants who sell goods to those teamsters and -muleteers, there is great rivalry and competition. I call them petty -merchants because there are so many more of them than the business -justifies or demands, that each one secures but a small share of the -custom; and they have to resort to the most contemptible devices to pay -current expenses. Indeed I do not believe half of them earn their -support. The reader may think this strange, and wonder why men continue -in an occupation which does not yield them a maintenance. They do not -continue in it; their losses soon compel them to leave; but the -departure of one victim only opens the way for the arrival of another. -Their stands are immediately occupied by novices who, after the lapse of -a few months, sink under the same fate that overwhelmed their luckless -predecessors. Such is the routine of affairs all over the State. I have -never known the time here when business was not clogged with double the -number of traders it required. Ever since San Francisco and Sacramento -were founded they have been overwhelmed with merchants, and this has -been the case with every other city and town of any note throughout the -State. In commercial circles you hear continual complaints of the -dullness of the times. The merchants are always grumbling because they -have nothing to do, and wondering when their business will improve. They -live on the airy diet of hope; their good time is ever dancing before -them, but never waits for them. It entices them on and then eludes -them,--they reach after gold and find dross. - -One reason why there is such an excess of business men, is, because -American and European strangers, who have been led into the mistaken -opinion that trading is profitable in California, are continually -arriving with heavy stocks of goods, and opening new shops or going into -the old ones, just vacated by those who could no longer sustain -themselves under the pressure of the times. In this way the humbug is -eternally nourished. As soon as one simpleton sacrifices his effects -and retires, “a sadder and a wiser man,” another fool steps in and takes -his place. Question the New York, Baltimore and Boston shippers -concerning the result of their ventures, and they will tell a doleful -story. Ask the Liverpool, Bordeaux and Hamburg consignors to show the -account sales of their factors, and they will anathematize the inquirer -and California in the same breath. Now and then, it is true, when the -markets are low, as they sometimes are, a shipment turns out lucrative -beyond anticipation; but when such a thing occurs it is a mere matter of -chance, and one gainful shipment occasions scores of unprofitable ones. -Dependent as the State is upon importations for all that she consumes or -requires for use, it must be expected that the markets will be very -fluctuating and changeable,--at any rate, it is so. The price of any -article does not remain the same two weeks at a time. There is almost -always a superfluity of merchandise in market; the supply is generally -double the demand, and many things are sold at less than prime cost. -Yet, by the time this merchandise falls into the hands of the actual -consumer, it usually costs him from one to four hundred per cent. more -than he would have to pay for it in the Atlantic States. The consignee -will probably sell it to a speculator--the speculator to a wholesale -merchant--the wholesale merchant to a jobber--the jobber to a -retailer--the retailer to a muleteer, and the muleteer to the final -purchaser or consumer. Or the importer may sell it to the city grocer, -whose onerous rent makes it necessary for him to re-sell at an -extraordinary advance on invoice rates to defray expenses. Thus the -charges accruing on it, after its arrival, render it very costly. - -I might cite instances of the perfidy and dishonesty of California -merchants; but it would be like taking an inventory of the exact number -of blades of grass in a meadow in order to get at the weeds by -subtraction,--it would be easier to reverse the task. It would require -less time to tell of those who have been true to their trusts. I know -one man in San Francisco who received a consignment of nearly twelve -thousand dollars worth of merchandise from his brother in New York. He -placed it in an auction house--had it sold for what it would -bring--appropriated the proceeds to his own use, and wrote back to his -brother that all the goods had been destroyed by fire. His brother heard -of his unfaithfulness, came on to San Francisco and reasoned with him; -but could neither bring him to terms nor find law that would compel the -performance of a common obligation. The defrauded brother returned home -without recovering a cent of his dues. Another New Yorker consigned -twenty thousand dollars worth of merchandise to two different commission -houses (ten thousand to each,) with limited instructions--that is, not -to sell for less than a certain sum. The factors received the goods, -hurried them through the market, put the funds in their pockets, and -wrote to the consignor, informing him that his ventures had been -consumed by fire, and sympathizing with him in his losses! Before long, -however, the shipper was made acquainted with the villainy of his -agents, and applied to the courts for redress; but this was only -employing a rogue to catch a rouge. After a deal of expense and delay, -the case was dismissed. A whole cargo of wares and merchandise, valued -at a trifle less than three hundred thousand dollars, was intrusted to -another man, who disposed of it and absconded with the money. - -But why detail these swindling transactions? Volumes upon volumes might -be filled with accounts of the crimes and short-comings of this wretched -country; but their perusal would only be productive of abhorrence and -disgust. If, reader, you would know California, you must go live there. -It is impossible for me to give, or for you to receive a correct -impression of it on paper,--like Thomas, the unbelieving disciple, you -must _see_ and _feel_ before you can be convinced. - -On the night of the 2d of November, 1852, Sacramento was almost entirely -destroyed by fire. Twenty-two hundred buildings, with other property, -valued at ten millions of dollars, were completely reduced to ashes. -The wind was blowing very hard at the time the fire commenced, and the -roaring of the flames, the rapidity with which they spread, the -explosions of gunpowder, as house after house was blown up, formed a -scene rarely excelled in terrific grandeur. Men, women and children ran -to and fro in the greatest confusion, excited almost to frenzy, in the -effort to save their lives and effects. Within six hours after the fire -first broke out, more than nine-tenths of the city were swept into -oblivion, and the people were left to sleep on the naked earth without -any shelter but the clothing they had on. Happening, too, just at the -commencement of the rainy season, this conflagration was peculiarly -disastrous, as thousands were deprived not only of shelter, but also of -the means of securing a comfortable living. Provisions at the time were -scarcer than I ever knew them before, or have known them since; and the -extraordinarily high prices which they commanded almost precluded the -poorer classes from buying or using them at all. Flour sold at forty-two -dollars per barrel, pork at fifty-five, and other eatables in about the -same ratio. Farther in the interior the times were still harder. In some -of the distant mining localities flour and pork sold as high as three -dollars per pound--equal to five hundred and eighty-eight dollars per -barrel; and could not be had in sufficient quantities even at these -rates. Many then suffered the pangs of insatiable hunger; and I have -seen children crying to their parents for bread, when there was none to -give them. - -A California conflagration is a scene of the most awful grandeur that -the mind is capable of conceiving. When fire is once communicated to the -buildings, especially if it be in the dry season, when the winds rage -and every thing is crisped by the sun, it does not smoulder, but blazing -high in the air, and spreading far and wide, it consumes every thing -within its reach, and leaves nothing behind but cinders and desolation. -No one of the present day, out of California, has ever seen such -pyramids of flame. One of the most beautiful sights I ever beheld was -during a large fire in San Francisco. It was a moonless night, and there -was nothing visible in the dark concave of heaven, save a few twinkling -stars. Others were concealed by the detached masses of floating vapor -which obscured them. Soon after the conflagration commenced, the -brilliant illumination attracted large flocks of brant from the -neighboring marshes; and as they flew hither and thither, high over the -flaming element, they shone and glistened as if they had been winged -balls of fire darting through the air. Had their plumage been burnished -gold, they could not have been more radiant. - -Before taking our final leave of Sacramento, we must not fail to get a -glimpse of the Three Cent Philosopher, a Mormon polygamist, who figures -conspicuously in this city as an extortionate usurer. He was born in the -State of New York, near the hallowed spot where Jo Smith received his -apostolic diploma. The Three Cent Philosopher does not carry so small a -purse as his common appellation might seem to indicate; he is the -wealthiest man in the place, and is as tenacious of his property as of -his life. It is supposed that he is worth very near half a million of -dollars. Though he believes in polygamy, and practices it, yet he never -lives with more than one spouse at a time; to have them all around him -at once would be too expensive. - -When his wife goes out shopping he gives her fifty cents, and if she -happens to bring back one-tenth of the amount, he takes it from her and -locks it up in his safe. When he travels on a steamboat he always takes -deck passage, and carries food in his pockets to avoid the extra expense -of dining at the table. While passing through the streets he keeps a -vigilant lookout for stray nails, old horse-shoes, pieces of bagging and -other refuse, which he picks up, lugs home and deposits in his -repository of odds and ends. Instead of chairs, he sits on stools and -boxes of his own make; and, in place of coffee, he drinks parched barley -tea or watered milk. His disposition is quite as sweet as wormwood, and -his household is usually a scene of as much calm and domestic bliss as -a family of tomcats. He is in the habit of bickering with his family at -least once every day, and when he does so he rouses the whole -neighborhood with the noise of his oaths and imprecations. In all -probability he is a lineal descendant of Ishmael, the son of Hagar, for -his hand is against every man and every man’s hand is against him. He is -at enmity with all the world and is despised by every body. If his -neighbor looks at him, he curses him, and if an acquaintance says -good-morning to him, he tells him to go to h--ll. He has never been -known to entertain a charitable thought towards his fellow-men, nor to -speak a good word concerning his nearest relations. To sum up all, he is -the extract of ill-breeding, the essence of vulgarity, and the -quintessence of meanness. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -YUBA--THE MINER’S TENT. - - -My first experience in mining was obtained on the banks of the Yuba -river, a small tributary of the Feather, which is itself a branch of the -Sacramento. Our party, in a stage-coach, left Sacramento city early in -the morning; we traveled due north until late in the afternoon, when we -arrived at Marysville, a city containing eight or nine thousand -inhabitants, and situated at the confluence of the Yuba and Feather -rivers. It was in July, and the roads were four to six inches deep in -dust, which seemed to be as fine as bolted flour, and was so volatile -that it rose in a dense cloud as we passed through it. The heat of the -sun was oppressive in the extreme, and by the time we got to the place -mentioned above, our persons were so besmeared with dust and -perspiration that it was no easy matter for a stranger to determine our -natural color. - -I could have made the trip by water, as there is steamboat communication -between Sacramento and Marysville daily; but having sailed up the river -as high as this place once before on a pleasure excursion, I preferred -the land route for the sake of seeing the country. I was disappointed, -however; for, as the distance between the two cities is a mere -continuation of the Sacramento valley, I saw nothing materially -different from the purlieus of the city I had left. The surface of the -valley is remarkably level, and is sparsely timbered with scrubby oaks -and other gnarled trees of uncommon form. Nor is there any thing of -unusual interest to be seen in Marysville. Sacramento is its prototype, -and it has been modeled after that city with scrupulous exactness. I -never saw two places more alike. - -By means of the same conveyance that carried us to Marysville, we -resumed our northern journey early in the morning of the succeeding day, -and by twelve o’clock we reached the place of our destination. We were -now on Long Bar, a popular mining place, divided and watered by the -Yuba. Two miles beyond is Park’s Bar, which I had visited on a previous -occasion; but this was the first time I had ever entered the mines for -the purpose of digging gold. Now, however, I had come to try my luck, -and to see what the gnomes and fairies would do for me. - -Once fairly started in a miner’s life, I could not completely steel -myself against the extravagant hopes which seemed to float in the very -atmosphere of the mines. Wild and extravagant fancies would in spite of -me obtrude themselves upon what I thought a well-balanced mind. Nor -were these reveries by any means unnatural, unreasonable though they -might be. Thousands of miners have, from time to time, indulged hopes -equally impalpable and transitory. I was standing over deposits of gold, -and who could tell how large they were, or how easily they might be -found? Who knew but that I should dig from these hills more wealth than -was ever locked up in the vaults of the Rothschilds? - -I had supplied myself with abundance of provisions, a pair of good -blankets, and every needful mining implement. Being in what is called -surface diggings, that is, on a spot where the gold lies near the -surface of the earth, I could perform all the necessary manipulations -myself. I noticed that those around did not delve deeper than from three -to four feet in this place. It did not pay to go lower; and whether it -paid to dig at all, will be seen hereafter. My implements consisted of a -pick, a spade, a pan, a bucket, a cradle and a wheelbarrow. The -_cradle_, though rudely made and of rude material, was a very good one, -and I have since regretted that I did not keep it and bring it with me, -as it would have answered a domestic purpose quite as well as a more -costly one. The modus operandi of single-handed mining may be described -in a few words. The earth is loosened with the pick, thrown into the -wheelbarrow with the spade, rolled to the river, emptied into the -cradle, washed by pouring water over it from the bucket, and carefully -rocked until the gold is separated from the dirt. The clods of earth, -during this process of washing, slowly dissolve, or are suspended in the -water, whereupon the gold, (if there is any,) being heaviest, sinks to -the bottom. All the contents of the cradle are then turned out, except a -thin layer at the bottom, which is supposed to contain the precious -metal. The next and last process is to scoop this layer into the pan, -and wash and rewash it until the dirt is entirely separated from the -gold. A sieve, or rather a piece of punctured or perforated sheet-iron, -which catches the larger stones and other insoluble substances, is fixed -about midway the depth of the cradle. The gold is generally found in -small particles about the size of grains of sand, sometimes not half so -large, sometimes much larger. The size of the grains, as well as the -quantity, depends very much upon the locality. No lumps larger than a -small pea were obtained from this bar. - -Fearing that I might make a fortune immediately, and return to the city -without learning how the gold gleaners live, I determined not to -commence operations until I had scrutinized the whole bar, tents, -miners, mining and all. Indeed it was necessary for me to converse with -some of the miners, in order to acquaint myself with their laws -respecting claims, dams and water. All surface diggings, when marked -out, or laid off in small plats, are called bars; and these bars are -known by distinctive names, as, for instance, Rocky Bar, Steep Bar, -Sandy Bar, &c. The name is not always derived from a peculiarity of the -place. Frequently they are called by the names of the men who first -discovered gold on them, as Brown’s Bar, Hall’s Bar, Drake’s Bar; and -sometimes they take their names from an important event that occurred at -or near them at the time they were opened, as Highwayman’s Bar, Rioter’s -Bar, Murderer’s Bar. Among the more fanciful names that designate -localities in various parts of the mines are the following: Whiskey Bar, -Humbug Creek, One Horse Town, Mississippi Quarters, Mad Ox Ravine, Mad -Mule Canon, Skunk Flat, Woodpecker Hill, Jesus Maria, Yankee Jim’s -Diggings, Death Pass, Ignis Fatuus Placer, Devil’s Retreat, Bloody Bend, -Jackass Gulch, Hell’s Half Acre. - -Every Bar is governed by such laws as the majority of the miners see fit -to enact, not by written or published documents, but by verbal -understanding. All the mines are public property, that is, they belong -to the United States government, which, in its suicidal liberality, -exercises comparatively no jurisdiction over them. So far as the general -government is concerned, Chinese marauders and foreign cut-throats have -the same rights and privileges guaranteed to them, in this matter, as -American citizens. Besides the enormous sums of money that the federal -government paid for California, it did a great deal of hard fighting, -and now has to keep a body of troops stationed there to prevent the -Indians from desolating the country; but aliens, who bear no part of the -burden, and who refuse to become permanent settlers or citizens, are -permitted, nay, encouraged, to come in on an equal footing. No tax is -levied upon them. They are protected from the Indians by our soldiery, -and share all the benefits with the native citizens; yet they are not -required to aid in defraying the common expenses. It can hardly be -doubted that this is bad policy? Would it not be bad management in a -father, after having bought a farm, to let strangers come in and carry -off the fruits of the soil, to the detriment and impoverishment of his -own children? If so, then our government, as a general mother, is doubly -culpable. - -Almost every Bar is governed by a different code of laws, and the sizes -of the claims vary according to locality. In one place a man may hold -twice, thrice, or even quadruple the number of feet that are allowed him -in another. One fourth of an acre is an average-sized claim. The -discoverer of new diggings is awarded a double or triple share, or only -an equal part, as a majority of those on the ground shall determine. Two -claims cannot be held by one person at the same time, except by -purchase. If a man lets his claim go unworked a certain number of days, -say five, eight or ten, he forfeits it, and any other person is at -liberty to take possession of it. When a miner wishes to quit his claim -only for a few days, he stacks his tools upon it, notifies two or three -adjoining neighbors of his intention, and goes where he pleases. If he -returns within the time prescribed by the laws of the Bar, he is -entitled to resume his claim; but if he is absent a day longer, it falls -to the first person, without a claim, who may happen to find it. There -is more real honesty and fairness among the miners than any other class -of people in California. Taken as a body, they are a plain, -straight-forward, hard-working set of men, who attend to their own -business without meddling in the affairs of others; and I have found as -guileless hearts amongst them as ever throbbed in mortal bosom. Genuine -magnanimity or nobleness of soul, when found at all in California, must -be sought among the miners--especially among those who are farthest -removed from the contaminating influences of idlers and gamblers. - -Drones and sluggards--things in the shape of men, who are too lazy to -work for an honest living--are the chief authors of the horrible crimes -that have rendered this country so odious and despicable. They are the -persons who are always creating disturbances; cheating, robbing and -murdering; and there is such a legion of them that no place is exempt -from their presence. Wherever there is money they may be seen skulking -around it; and if they cannot filch it from the rightful owner by -intrigue or artifice, they will do it by more violent measures. They -lurk behind the poor drudging miner, even in the farthest gorges of the -mountains, and there butcher him, that they may avail themselves of his -hard-earned treasures. An incident of this nature, which terminated most -admirably, occurred near this place but a few days before my arrival. A -highwayman met a miner in an unfrequented place, and, with a cocked -pistol pointing towards him, demanded, “Your gold this instant, sir, or -your life!” “Hold! you shall have it,” exclaimed the miner, when quickly -thrusting his hand into his breast pocket, as if feeling for his purse, -he drew his own revolver and shot the would-be assassin dead upon the -spot. - -While reconnoitering the bar, I made excuses to call on several miners -who happened to be in their tents. As for the tents themselves, though -nearly all of the same size, they differ very much in appearance and -quality. A great many are made of duck or white canvas; while others are -built of stunted saplings, which grow sparsely throughout the mining -region. Those constructed of the latter material are about the size and -shape of a common hog-pen, with a stick and mud chimney, which very -frequently has a headless whiskey barrel stuck in the top for a funnel. -These are the best and most comfortable domicils about the mines; and it -is only when miners, or a combination of miners, have large claims, -which afford them steady employment for a considerable length of time, -that they are enabled to build them. There being no planks, boards, -slabs, nor other sawn or hewn timbers, the poles are covered with brush -or coarse cloth, and sometimes with raw-hides. The ground is the floor -in all cases. No chimney nor whiskey-barrel flue graces the gable-end of -the canvas tent; it is merely a temporary shelter from the scorching -rays of the sun and the chilling dews of the night. Until the miner is -successful enough to secure a good claim and build himself a hovel, of -course he is compelled to sleep under the roof which canopied Adam and -Eve, and he must take his chances of the tarantula and of the assassin. - -The interior of the miner’s tent corresponds to its exterior. Spread -upon the ground, on one side, we see a pair of rumpled blankets, upon -which he sleeps. They are thoroughly saturated with mud and dust, and -have never been shaken, switched nor sunned since their place was -assigned them. Scattered here and there, about the edges of the -blankets, lie several of Paul de Kock’s and Eugene Sue’s yellow-backed -novels, whose soiled margins and dog-eared leaves give evidence that -they are not allowed to go unread. Something less than half a dozen -packs of cards are within reach, while three or four old stumps or -chunks of wood, employed as substitutes for chairs, occupy random -positions about the floor. In one corner is a keg of brandy or whiskey, -and in another the cooking apparatus and provisions. As for tables, -delft-ware, knives and forks, or any thing of that kind, there are none. -The miner always carries his pistol and bowie knife by his side day and -night, and with the latter weapon, aided by his fingers, he reduces his -food to convenient morsels. - -His cooking utensils consist of a frying-pan and a pot, neither of -which, except in rare instances, is ever washed. The pot is mostly used -for boiling pork and beans, and the old scum and scales that accumulate -on the inside from one ebullition serve as seasoning to the next. Pork -and beans are two of the principal articles of diet with miners, partly -because they are comparatively cheaper than other provisions, and partly -on account of their being so nutritious and wholesome. The beans, -especially, are very fine; they are imported from Chili, and are -superior to any I ever saw in the Atlantic States. By boiling as much at -one time as the pot will hold, the miner generally saves himself the -trouble of preparing these articles of food oftener than twice a week. -When cooked to suit him, he sets the pot on one side, leaving the -contents in it uncovered; this is his pantry, and out of it he makes his -meals from time to time, until all is consumed, when he replenishes it -with a fresh supply of the same kind. Flap-jacks are very frequently -used in lieu of bread. They are a combination of flour and water, fried -in such grease as can be extracted from the pork; or, if the miner has -no pork, he bakes them as he would other thin cakes of dough. If he is -not too far removed from a depot of general provisions, he will probably -keep a bottle of molasses, which may be seen by the side of the -frying-pan, unstopped, and containing an amount of flies and ants nearly -equal to that of the saccharine juice. These entrapped insects do not -seem to come within the scope of his observation, as he never attempts -to clear his bottle of them. He is not very squeamish about his diet. - -It is but seldom that the miner suspends labor on Sunday if his claim is -a rich one; but if it is poor, he usually lets it rest on that day, -while he does his washing and mending. I have already said that he -carries his bowie-knife and revolver with him day and night. There is -scarcely an exception to this rule; ninety-nine out of every hundred are -thus armed, and this accounts for the fatal result of almost every -altercation. No matter what it is that occasions disputes between men, -whether slight misunderstandings or grave difficulties, few words are -bandied before they appeal to their weapons, and the life of one or the -other is sure to be lost in the fracas,--sometimes both are killed. This -barbarous practice of carrying deadly weapons is not alone confined to -the miners; you rarely find a merchant, mechanic, lawyer doctor, or man -of any other calling in California, who does not keep them concealed -about him. By a calculation, based upon fair estimates, I learn that -since California opened her mines to the world, she has invested upwards -of six millions of dollars in bowie-knives and pistols--pretty -playthings to give to her children! - -Having surveyed and examined the bar, and all that pertained to it, to -my satisfaction, I constructed a small canvas tent, and the next day -began to search the earth in quest of gold. Though I was not reared in -idleness, this was my first lesson in real hard labor. Here, in the -summer season, the thermometer ranging from 90 to 105 degrees of -Fahrenheit in the shade, mining, when diligently and assiduously -prosecuted, is certainly the most toilsome employment in the world. I -imagine that the tillage of sugar-fields is pastime compared with it, -and that the African slaves who gather coffee in Brazil, have no -adequate conception of hardwork. - -For three months I applied myself to my tools and claim with all the -energy of my nature--digging, shoveling and rocking, with the snarls of -grizzly hears to lull me to sleep at night, and the howls of hungry -wolves to regale my ears at the break of day. With all this wear and -tear of body and mind, my account-current of proceeds and expenditures -stood, at the expiration of that time, giving myself no credit for -either loss of time or physical exhaustion, just ninety-three and -three-quarter cents--balance on hand! This was building a palace with a -vengeance! A net profit of ninety-three and a quarter cents in three -months, being “two and six-pence” per month, or a fraction over a cent a -day. - -Hope, however, did not forsake me, and besides that, (shall I confess -it?) I felt a sort of malignant satisfaction that I was not alone in my -disappointments. I found consolation in the misfortune of others! When I -looked around me, and saw scores of dirty, hungry, ragged, long-haired -miners, who had toiled and labored like plantation negroes, on this and -other bars, for more than two years, and who could not command as much -as five dollars to save their lives, it buoyed me up, and made me better -satisfied with my own ill-luck. The feeling that thus manifested itself -may have been worthy of censure, but I am sure it was natural, for no -energetic or enterprising man likes to see his neighbor out-do him, or -surpass him in the acquisition of wealth--especially if their chances -and opportunities have always been the same. If I had not been -unsuccessful myself, I should not have chuckled over the corresponding -misfortunes of others; but, to be candid, feeling that my devotion and -application to business entitled me to a reasonable share of prosperity, -I had but little sympathy for my fellow-miners, who, being no more -worthy of reward than myself, failed in their efforts to excel me. I -said I had but little sympathy for them. I had some. It grieved me to -see so many stout, athletic men undergoing so many privations and -discomforts, wasting their time in unprofitable schemes, only to be at -last subjected to the most galling disappointments. - -The time had now come, however, for other thoughts and considerations. A -change of location seemed to be necessary. The profits of mining did not -warrant longer continuance at this place. It occurred to me that the sum -of ninety-three and three-quarter cents was but indifferent remuneration -for three months’ herculean labor. I wished to have nothing to do with -this lying equivalent, so handing it over, with my compliments, to a -poor, needy, hungry-looking neighbor, I shook the dust from my feet and -departed, after the manner of Lot when he left Sodom, not deigning to -look behind--not for fear, however, of being turned into a pillar of -gold. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -STOCKTON AND SONORA. - - -I have perambulated the streets of San Francisco, Sacramento, Marysville -and Stockton; but of all the California cities, after San Francisco, -Stockton is my choice. It is named in honor of Commodore R. F. Stockton, -and is situated on a tributary of the San Joaquin river, which empties -into the Suisun Bay, opening into the Bay of San Francisco. Being but a -little over one hundred miles to the east of San Francisco, it enjoys -the advantages of daily steamboat communication with that place; but -owing to the narrow banks of the stream and the shallowness of the -water, the vessels are much smaller than those employed upon the -Sacramento. It contains from six to seven thousand inhabitants. Though -only the fourth city in the State in population, it is the third in -business. All the residents of the southern mines draw their supplies -from it; and as it is blessed with a mild climate, it is frequently -resorted to by those who seek pastime or recreation. - -The San Joaquin valley, in the midst of which this city is situated, -would probably be the best agricultural land in the State, if the water -could be drained from it; but in its present low and boggy condition, it -is utterly unfit for cultivation. It takes its name from the low-banked -river which meanders through it, and is as level as a garden. No -vegetable production is found upon it, except the tule, a tall, pithy -species of rush or calamus, which bears a more striking resemblance to -the flag than to any thing else of Atlantic growth. This tule, which -grows as thick as it can stand, and from six to eight foot in height, is -an annual plant; and in the fall of the year, if fire be communicated to -it during the night, when there is a light breeze stirring, it burns -with an indescribable splendor. I have said that this aquatic weed is -the only natural product of the valley; this is true, as regards all -that part which is perfectly level, and which presents the appearance of -a vast meadow; but as we approach the Coast Range on the south-west, or -the Sierra Nevadas on the north-east, we come to slightly elevated -knolls, upon which we find clumps of gnarled oaks. These trees all lean -towards the east, as if bowing their heads in adoration, having grown in -this reverential posture while under the influence of the winds from the -west. - -This valley affords another evidence of the unfavorable condition of the -country. It shows conclusively that even the most valuable parts of the -State are encumbered with insurmountable impediments. The bottom lands, -which are mainly relied upon for agricultural purposes, are too wet to -till, and too low to drain; while the uplands are so dry and sterile -that neither grains, plants nor fruits can be raised upon them. There is -either too much moisture or none at all. It is a land of mountains and -mud-holes. Still, there are some extensive plains and valleys which -might be successfully cultivated, if the seasons were adapted to them; -but the absence of rain during the summer renders them of little or no -value to the farmer. It is very probable, however, that in the progress -of time, as the other members of the confederacy become burdened with -population, the more eligible parts of this State will be settled and, -by means of irrigation, made tolerably productive; but when California -is thus peopled and converted into a place of permanent habitation, it -will be by the force of destiny, rather than by any attractions it can -offer to immigrants. They may make it their home as a dernier resort, -but they will not do it as a matter of choice. So long as there is any -unappropriated territory in other parts of the Union, California will -not be in demand. - -We shall find but few things deserving attention in the city of -Stockton, having already examined its archetypes, San Francisco and -Sacramento. It is due to this place to remark that, notwithstanding all -its Peter Funk and Cheap John establishments, it sustains a better -character than any other city in the State. Though it has its share of -groggeries and gambling-houses, and is, in most respects, fitted out in -true California style, it is not infested with so many drones and -desperadoes as are usually met with in neighboring towns. I am well -acquainted with many of its citizens and know them to be estimable -men--not too lazy to work, nor too sour to laugh at a merry thing. - -Sonora is an inland town, situated in the midst of one of the richest -mineral regions in the southern part of the State. A stage-coach affords -the most convenient and expeditious means of reaching this place, which -lies about fifty miles to the south-east. Starting early in the morning, -we travel as last as a dare-devil driver can make four horses convey -us--frequently meeting and overtaking numerous pack trains, pedestrians -and ox-teams, passing to and fro between the mines and Stockton. A part -of the country over which our road leads us, is a somewhat elevated -plain, which, being entirely destitute of trees and other vegetable -products, presents a most dreary and uninviting prospect. We see nothing -around us but the naked earth. There is no accommodation for either bird -or beast--no resting-place for the one, nor food for the other. The -pack-trains, pedestrians and ox-teams, constitute the only animal life -in view; and as we see them plodding along over this barren waste, our -memories are refreshed with vivid recollections of those stories, which -we read in former days, of caravans crossing the great desert of Sahara. - -It is a fact worthy of being here recorded, as illustrative of the -success of the miners, that we shall observe a larger number returning -on foot than we find going. I was amused one day, while on my way to the -regions of hidden treasure, when meeting a ragged, hairy, Esau-looking -pedestrian, he hailed me with “Hallo.” “How are you?” answered I. “Which -way?” asked he. “To the mines,” replied I. “Well, my friend,” said he, -“you will excuse me for speaking plainly; this is a free country and I -presume you are at liberty to go to the mines or to the d--l, just as -you please; but, mark my words, if you are going to the mines to dig, -I’ll be d--d if you don’t rue the act.” “May-be not,” remarked I. “Very -well,” he added, “you’ll see. By the time you delve and toil two long -years, under the broiling sun as I have done, and have seen others do, -without making a decent living, you’ll perceive the truth of what I tell -you.” - -Steadily pursuing our course, about twelve o’clock we came to the -Stanislaus River, a small tributary stream of the San Joaquin. Here we -stop to change horses and get dinner, there being a sort of bastard -hotel near the brink of the river. Numerous Indians, naked and hungry, -could be seen prowling about this place, or seated in squads, partaking -of a mess of worms, young wasps, grasshoppers, or any other similar -dainty to which their good stars may lead them. It was a long time -before the savage creatures would tolerate the presence of the white man -amongst them; but they have been so repeatedly routed in battle, that -they have now given up open hostility and are comparatively peaceable; -still they secretly cherish the most implacable enmity to our race, and -improve every opportunity to dispatch us when they can do so without -being detected. They gain nothing, however, by these covert misdeeds; -for our people, understanding their insidious conduct, retaliate by -deliberately shooting them down whenever they come in their way. What -the white man’s life is valued at by the Indian, is probably not known; -but the white man hurls the Indian into eternity with as much -nonchalance as though he were a squirrel. - -Having appeased our appetites and secured the services of a fresh team, -we cross the river and resume our journey. As we advance towards the -place of our destination, the face of the country changes, from level -plains to rugged slopes and woodlands. In the forenoon our road, though -disagreeably dusty, was both smooth and straight, but now it winds over -rocky glades, hills and gullies; and as the wheels of our vehicle mount -and descend the rough impediments, we are jarred and shaken without -mercy. Approaching still nearer the end of our journey, we have to -contend with a more difficult and uneven surface; but being in charge of -a very skillful driver, we are drawn safely over every rock and crag. - -Arriving in Sonora between sundown and dark, we repair to a public -house, and bespeak supper and lodgings for the night. The best hotel in -the place is a one-story structure, built of unhewn saplings, covered -with canvas and floored with dirt. It consists of one undivided room, in -which the tables, berths and benches are all arranged. Here we sleep, -eat and drink. Four or five tiers of berths or bunks, one directly above -another, are built against the walls of the cabin, by means of upright -posts and cross-pieces, fastened with thongs of raw-hide. The bedding is -composed of a small straw mattress about two feet wide, an uncased -pillow stuffed with the same material, and a single blanket. When we -creep into one of these nests, it is optional with us whether we unboot -or uncoat ourselves; but it would be looked upon as an act of -ill-breeding, even in California, to go to bed with one’s hat on. Having -once resigned ourselves into the arms of Morpheus, we are not likely to -be disturbed by the drunken yells and vociferations of night-brawlers, -now that we have become accustomed to such things. The noisy curses of -the rabble will have no more effect upon us than the roaring water-fall -or the mill-wheel has upon the miller. Night glides away, morning dawns, -and we rise from our bunks to battle with another day. On the outside of -the tavern, whither we betake ourselves to wash, are a tub of water, a -basin and a towel, for all the guests; but as only one person can -perform his ablutions at a time, it will be necessary for us to form -ourselves in a line, and take our turn--the first comers being entitled -to the front places. We are now ready to replenish the inner man. The -bar is convenient for those who wish to imbibe. Breakfast is announced. -We seat ourselves at the table. Before us is a reasonable quantity of -beans, pork and flapjacks, served up in tin plates. Pea tea, which the -landlord calls coffee with a bold emphasis, is handed to us, and we help -ourselves to such other things as may be within reach. - -No matter what kinds or qualities of viands are set before us, so that -there be sufficient, for our stomachs have become so well tempered by -this time that we feast upon them with as much gusto as if we were -dining in a French restaurant. Neither spices, sauces nor seasonings are -necessary to accommodate them to the palate. Our appetites need no -nursing. Honest hunger disdains such dyspeptic accompaniments as the -contents of cruets and casters. The richest condiments are the poorest -provisions. - -Our fast is broken--we are satisfied. The proprietor of the hotel, with -his two male assistants, begins to clear off the table. Women have no -hand in these domestic affairs. There is not a female about the -establishment. All the guests, owners and employees are men. The dishes -are washed, the blankets straightened in the berths; and while the cook -is preparing dinner, some of the tavern-loungers seat themselves around -the table, to take a friendly game of euchre, whist, seven-up, -laugh-and-lay-down, old-maid, commerce or matrimony, while others -saunter off to the gambling houses, of which there are about half a -dozen in the place, to play at roulette, monte, faro, poker, twenty-one, -all-fours or lansquenet. Such is hotel life in California, especially in -the country towns and throughout the mining region. - -Frequently several of the guests are fuddled, and as there are no -partitions or apartments in the building, by which one person or set of -persons may be separated from another, they are a most prolific source -of annoyance to their sober neighbors. I recollect one occasion -particularly, when, fatigued by a long day’s journey, I stopped at one -of these mountain taverns in the hope of enjoying a comfortable night’s -rest. Soon after eating my supper, which consisted of the standard -dish, pork and beans, I crept into one of the farthest bunks, annoyed by -the blackguardism and segar fumes of a group of drunken card-players, -who occupied a table near the centre of the room. These swaggering -inebriates, noisy as they were, did not prevent me from sleeping, as I -had become habituated to witnessing such nocturnal carousals; but -towards midnight, in came a wild, blustering lunatic, who had lost his -reason about a week before, yelling and screaming as if a legion of -fiends were after him. He was bare-footed, bare-headed and bare-legged, -having no clothing upon his person, except a shirt; and I understood -afterwards that he had been roaming about the place four or five days -and nights in this condition. Making some inquiry concerning his -history, I learned that he was a lawyer by profession, that he had -formerly figured as an able and influential member of the Maine -Legislature, and that, becoming embarrassed in his financial affairs, he -left his family and emigrated hither in the hope of retrieving his -fortune. Shortly after his arrival, not finding employment for his -talent as a counselor, he determined to seek the favor of the mines; but -his efforts in that quarter proved unavailing. For nearly a year he had -toiled vigorously and incessantly, but to no purpose. He could not -discover the hidden treasure which he sought. Disappointed and -chagrined at the result, he resigned himself to the bottle. The -remembrance of his dependent and far distant family, coupled with the -mischievous influence of ardent spirits, increased and sharpened his -mental suffering; his mind began to vacillate--his reason lost its -equilibrium, and we now find him a raving maniac. More than half naked, -friendless and forlorn, he wanders about the streets and through the -woods, day and night--a poor, miserable, crazy vagabond. Why, it may be -asked, was there not some public provision made for the removal and -security of this pitiable nuisance? Simply because it was in California. -Here, where there is nothing as it should be, this unhappy man was -allowed to run at large. No one cared for him. He was supposed to be -harmless, and was, therefore, permitted to live. If he had inflicted any -bodily injury upon any one, he would probably have been shot or stabbed, -and that would have been the end of the drama. Cases of this or a -similar character are to be met with almost every day. I only mention -this as a single instance. - -To give a faint idea of the precocity and waywardness of youth in this -country, I will relate a bloody incident which occurred at another -hotel, where I had put up for a night’s lodging. In this case the -landlord, a short, lean Massachusetts Yankee, was married and had his -family with him. His eldest son, Ned, had not seen his ninth year. -Nevertheless, this boy had learned to gamble. Whether his father or -mother had instructed him in the art, or whether he had been tutored by -the blacklegs frequenting the hotel, I am unable to say; but it was very -evident that his parents cared very little about the matter, for they -permitted him to play cards in their own house, and seemed to pride -themselves upon his proficiency. Indeed, he was so dexterous in his -manner of shuffling and dealing, and so quick to perceive the course and -probable result of the game, that he was known throughout the -neighborhood as the gambling prodigy. It may be questioned whether Hoyle -himself was so conversant with diamonds, hearts, clubs and spades at so -early an age. - -Supper was now over, and the tables were surrounded with players. Little -Ned had his place amongst them. I watched him more than an hour. He -handled the cards with so much grace, skill and agility, and seemed to -be so perfectly familiar with every branch of the game, that I could not -withhold my admiration. As the night advanced, the parties became -involved in a quarrel. Some one accused Ned of unfairness in changing -the position of certain cards. Violent oaths and maledictions followed -this accusation. Inflamed with anger, and assuming a menacing attitude, -Ned denounced his accuser (a full grown man, three times as large and -four times as old as himself,) as “a pusillanimous liar and scoundrel,” -and added, “G-d d--n you, I’ll shoot you!” By this time the excitement -had reached a high pitch. Things began to wear an alarming aspect. -Several persons took sides in the matter, some for Ned and some against -him. A general row seemed to be inevitable. Ned had the largest number -of friends; but his enemies were clamorous and obstinate in their -assertions that he had departed from the rules of the game, and declared -in positive terms that he was a disciplined cheat. - -Finally, however, Ned’s friends took upon themselves all the -responsibility of his behaviour, and the war of loud invectives and -imprecations was now waged more by the adherents of the original -disputants than by those disputants themselves. The bandying of gross -epithets attracted the attention of a large crowd. Serious consequences -were apprehended. The occasion was pregnant with mischief. One of the -desperadoes jerked a bowie-knife from his pocket, and was about to -plunge it into the body of his antagonist, when another drew a revolver -and shot him. A few struggles--a few groans, and the fallen man had -ceased to live. But the injury was not confined to him alone. As the -ball passed through the breast of the man at whom it was aimed, it -lodged in the shoulder of an innocent spectator, inflicting a severe -but not mortal wound. And now was enacted one of those awful scenes of -retribution for which California is so notorious. The man who had just -committed the homicide was seized by the mob, and, amid loud cries of -“hang him! hang him!” led out to a tree and there summarily executed -according to the prompt sentence of the excited multitude. It was a -season of dreadful uproar and commotion. The man who was shot had not -been dead half an hour before his murderer was suspended by the neck -between heaven and earth. Thus we have seen the blood of two men shed in -the quarrel of a stripling, who had not attained half the age of -manhood, but who already was a reckless and abandoned little gambler. If -we deemed it necessary, we might cite other instances of a similar -character. Suffice it to say that this boy, Ned, may be taken as a fair -sample of the rising generation in California. Of course, they are not -all exactly like him, any more than two persons are exactly alike any -where else; but the same unlimited freedom is extended to them all: they -are allowed to do just as they please. What else can be expected? Is it -to be supposed that parents who put no restraint upon themselves will -govern their children with propriety? If the father is an habitual -gambler, drunkard and desperado, will not the son be so too? - -The truth is, there is no attention paid to the moral, mental or -physical discipline of youth in this country. They are left to their own -will and inclination, to grow up, like the plants and weeds in a -neglected garden, without culture or training. Surrounded as they are -with so many examples of depravity, what sort of men and women are they -likely to he? It is probable that the world has never reared such a -horde of accomplished scamps and vagabonds, male and female, as will -soon emerge from the adolescent population of the Eureka State. The -signs of the times warrant this conclusion. How can it be otherwise when -they are familiar with every vice, and strangers to every virtue? It -matters not how strict or careful the parents themselves may be, it is -impossible for them to shield their children from the baneful influences -of the neighborhood; and a man might as well think of raising a healthy -and stalwart family in the midst of a malarious swamp, as to think of -rearing decent sons and daughters in California. The boys persuade -themselves that they are men before they are half matured; and their -superiors are either too little concerned about it, or too deeply -engrossed in business to teach them better. As a consequence of this -precocious manliness, they give themselves up to all the pernicious -habits and indulgences of older reprobates. - -A few words now in regard to this town of Sonora. It is built upon the -slope of a long hill, and contains about four thousand inhabitants. Only -one street traverses it. Unlike most other towns, its length is very -much disproportioned to its breadth. As well as I remember, it is -something over a mile long, and only about one hundred yards wide; so -that the single street which passes through it affords an ample avenue -for the intercourse and business operations of the people. The houses, -or, more properly speaking, the shanties, are built close together, and -open on the street, in city style. Indeed, it is here called a city, and -is governed by a mayor and common council. In fact, every collection of -houses in this country, every hamlet, every village, every town, is -called a city. No matter if there be only half a dozen houses in a -place, it is termed a city, always taking the name of the locality upon -which it is built, as Collusi city, Stanislaus city, Marin city. I have -visited two or three of these California “cities” that contained but a -couple of frail tenements each, and four or five old bachelor -inhabitants. - -Before it was ascertained which were the natural or most suitable and -convenient parts of the State for city sites and trading posts, there -was a wonderful deal of finesse practiced by a set of land-speculators. -Scattering themselves over the country, they laid claim to certain -eligible plats, which, according to their stories, Nature had formed -expressly for capitals and queen cities. Large maps, margined with -laudatory remarks, setting forth the peerless advantages of this place -and that, were committed to oily-tongued agents for general circulation. -The people were informed that such a place was destined to become a -metropolis, that all the surrounding mountains, hills, valleys and -plains were bound to become tributary to it, that the great system and -machinery of the world could not move on harmoniously without it, and -that those who secured the first choice of lots would at once be in -possession of a lordly fortune. This, as a matter of course, was all -sheer humbug; nevertheless, in California, where humbug mingles with -every transaction of life, and where people are ever ready to lay hold -of any scheme that promises money, it had the desired effect. - -Many persons had confidence in these projects, and made investments in -them. Besides several individual cases of which I might speak, I am -acquainted with a company of men who laid out more than one hundred and -fifty thousand dollars in this questionable species of property;--to-day -their investment is not worth two cents on the dollar. It was perfectly -amusing sometimes to witness the working of these bastard enterprises. -The authors and agents of the plan, having their topographic charts and -every thing in readiness, would bustle about among the people, pointing -out and explaining the favorable and commanding situation of the place, -assuring them that the attention of the whole country was now directed -to it, and giving the most exasperated accounts of the demand for lots. -In this way they would soon get up a great excitement, (it requires but -a small matter to excite the people in California.) In a few instances, -as many as seventy or eighty persons have been known to purchase -interests in one of these bubble cities, and, laying aside all other -business, flock to it without delay. Three weeks afterwards, there would -probably be only one or two men on the ground, and no marks or vestiges -of a city, except, perhaps, a few deserted cloth tents. It must be -admitted that the projectors of these ephemeral cities made money at the -expense of their victims. - -The Americans were the principal operators in these speculative -movements; but I know several Germans, who, though proverbially cautious -in the matter of dollars and cents, were likewise drawn into them. In -one particular case, two worthy representatives of the _Faderland_ -bought four lots, each forty-five by one hundred and thirty-seven feet, -for thirteen thousand dollars, which they afterwards offered to me at -ninety-five per cent. discount! I would not have taken the whole or any -part of the plot at the rate of six dollars an acre. - -I have alluded, parenthetically, to the excitability of the -Californians. This is a remarkable trait in their character. The least -thing of unusual occurrence fires their fancy and sets them in motion. -If a terrier catches a rat, or if a big turnip is brought to market, the -people cluster together and scramble for a sight with as much eagerness -and impetuosity as a party of children would scramble after a handful of -sweetmeats. If, in these hasty gatherings, one man happens to tread on -the toes of another, it only requires one minute for the injured party -to shoot the offender, two minutes for some body else to stab the -shooter, and three minutes for the whole crowd to hang the stabber. - -While in and about Sonora, we may have an opportunity of inspecting all -the various systems of mining that are carried on in California. The -whole earth, for some distance around, is literally turned upside down, -or inside out. On the left, they are using the common single-hand -rocker; on the right, sluicing; and in another place, sinking deep -shafts. We shall here find a great many Mexican miners, who make deep -pits and excavations in the hills, and who are generally very successful -in their operations. These delving countrymen of Santa Anna seem to have -a peculiar tact for discovering the veins of gold. But they do not -confine themselves much to surface diggings. They have a greater -propensity for holes. Sometimes they will go forty or fifty feet into -the earth without finding an atom of the precious metal; but it is very -seldom that they mistake their ground; they keep going, either in a -perpendicular, horizontal or meandering direction, until they strike the -ore. Except in working quartz veins, machinery has been but little -employed, as yet, in developing the mineral resources of the State; but -I am inclined to the opinion that it might be advantageously applied in -gathering the gold in whatever form it may exist. - -A part of the preceding chapter was devoted to observations upon the -habits of life and personal appearance of the miner; but I neglected to -mention his peculiar characteristic or appendage: this is the long hair -upon his head and face. He neither shaves nor shears; he has no use for -either razors or scissors. The tonsorial art is, in his estimation, a -most reprehensible and unmanly innovation. Looking upon it as one of the -fashionable foibles of society, he disavows all connection with it. He -believes that Nature is not apt to make mistakes, that all things were -created about right, that hair was placed upon man’s head and face to -harmonize with the other organs of his body, that it has its distinct -and peculiar offices to perform, and that if it is cut, the whole animal -economy will be more or less enervated. Such is something of the faith -of the miner upon this interesting subject, which has of late been such -a theme of discussion among the mustachioed and non-mustachioed world. - -I confess myself, in fact, a convert to his notions. To say that the -whiskers or the hair should never be trimmed, would be as much as to say -that the finger-nails should never be pared; while to say that the beard -or the hair should be cut close to the skin, would be the same as saying -that the finger-nails should be pulled out by the roots. If we shave the -chin and the cheeks, why not the head, the hands and the arms? How comes -it that hair is less tolerable on the side of the face than on the back -of the hand? The Chinaman shaves his head all over, except a small spot -on the crown, about twice the size of a dollar, and we laugh at him for -doing so; but may it not be questioned which is the greater object of -derision, a bald head or a beardless face? We are also in the habit of -ridiculing young ladies because they lace or compress their waists, but -would it not be equally becoming in them to sneer at us for disfiguring -our faces? What would we think of the belles, if they were to get in the -habit of wearing false whiskers? Would we not characterize the -introduction of such a fashion as a silly and whimsical innovation? But -is it any more ridiculous or censurable in a woman to make her face -masculine, than it is in a man to make his feminine? - -That the beard is a protection against sore throats, coughs, colds, -asthma, and other ailments, every California miner will be willing to -testify. It is said that the English colliers, who have long suffered -from hemorrhage of the lungs, have evaded the disease altogether by -discontinuing the use of the razor. Yet the newspapers inform us that -the clerks in the Bank of England are not allowed to wear mustachios, -under penalty of dismission. - -As I have heretofore remarked, mining in California is one of the most -precarious of all occupations. Yet it is the country’s only source of -wealth, and if the laborer fails in it, he cannot betake himself to -other pursuits. If he cannot make money by digging, shoveling and -rocking, he cannot make it at all. Now and then, it is true, the miner -meets with unanticipated good luck; but when such a thing occurs it is -blazoned from Dan to Beersheba, whereas no mention is ever made of the -thousands of unfortunate, poverty-stricken dupes, who, though equally -industrious and deserving, scarcely defray their expenses. - -I may refer to the case of an old man, who, for some time, was engaged -in mining operations at this place, and with whom I became acquainted -soon after my arrival here. Sixty years had left their traces upon his -face, and his snowy beard and silver locks increased his venerable air. -For a man of his age, he was remarkably vigorous; and as he was somewhat -above the usual height, and well proportioned, with a kind heart that -beamed through his intelligent features, he must have been, in his -younger days, a noble specimen of a man. Even at the time of which we -speak, he was a fine looking man, old in years but young in spirit, -whole-souled, free from every species of hypocrisy, plain-spoken, full -of courage and resolution, yet sincere and guileless as a child. Though -I never saw him have on a clean shirt, though his whole garb was -besmeared with mud and soiled with perspiration; though his hoary locks -hung about his breast and shoulders in unrestrained length and unlimited -profusion; and though he was nothing now but a poor, penniless old -miner--yet, convinced that he had those excellent qualities within, -which constitute the great and good man, I should have felt proud to -call him father. - -We will let this venerable sexagenarian tell his own story. I indite his -own words, as nearly as I recollect them. Said he, during conversation -one evening, after we had both quit work, “Some men would esteem -themselves wealthy, if they were worth as much money as I was deprived -of by bad legislation in Congress, a while previous to my departure for -this country. Soon after the enactment of the tariff law of 1842, one -of my neighbors and myself invested eighty thousand dollars in the -manufacture of iron, in the State of Pennsylvania. Our business -succeeded beyond our expectations; and in order to supply the increasing -demands for our products, we found it necessary to employ additional -force and capital, build new forges, and otherwise enlarge the sphere of -our operations. Every examination of our affairs developed new evidences -of prosperity, and our hearts glowed with gratitude to those sterling -patriots and sagacious statesmen, Clay, Webster and others, through -whose eloquent influence we were then harvesting the fruits of a -protective tariff. But this thriving state of things was not of long -continuance. In 1846 the tariff act of ’42 was repealed; and that repeal -was the death-blow to our manufacturing interests. The duty on iron was -reduced so low that it was impossible for us to compete with the -importations from Europe. We became embarrassed, made an assignment, and -finally, by sacrificing every thing we had in the shape of property, -extricated ourselves from all liabilities. After this stroke of -misfortune, having a wife and three daughters, who were partly dependent -upon me for support, I concluded to come to California, believing, from -the flattering accounts which I had seen published, that money was more -easily accumulated here than in the Atlantic States. It is now almost -two years since I arrived in San Francisco. Going to the northern mines -first, I worked there something over twelve months; but finding it a -difficult matter to pay expenses, I came south, and settled at this -place. I fear I have not bettered my condition. During the last seven or -eight months I have labored faithfully upon this bar, but have not been -in possession of as much as twenty-five dollars clear money at any one -time. I confess I am utterly disappointed in California. It has been -grossly, shamefully misrepresented. I have tried it to my satisfaction. -Now I would be glad to return to my home in Pennsylvania, but I have no -means to convey me. And there is my poor family, my beloved wife and -daughters--what will become of them? May heaven provide for them, for I -am unable.” - -As the good old man uttered these last words, the tears trickled down -his cheeks, and he could say no more. Had it not been that I disdained -to moisten California soil with such precious drops, I believe my eyes -would have rained too; for the clouds began to gather about them, and I -had to use no little precaution to keep them dry. It was certainly no -sign of a white-livered man, to shed tears in a case of this kind; on -the contrary, it was, at least in my opinion, a mark of goodness; and my -estimation of the old gentleman was heightened, on account of the -tender regard he manifested towards his family. He had lately received -a most soothing and affectionate letter from one of his daughters, -urging him by all means to return home on the first opportunity, and -promising to exert herself to the utmost to make him happy. Handing the -letter to me, he remarked that I might read it if I felt so disposed. A -peculiar thrill electrified my whole system as I laid hold of the -delicately penned missive. I was but little acquainted with that kind of -literature, yet there was a charm about it, and I devoured its contents -with avidity. It was a rare souvenir--beautifully written, well worded, -and faultless in orthography. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA VIA CAPE HORN. - - -Among our readers there may be some who are contemplating a trip to -California, and may be hesitating between the two routes commonly -traveled. For their sakes, I have violated the chronological order of my -adventures, that I might introduce a description of the outward and -return trip, in immediate juxtaposition for the greater convenience of -comparison. - -From the pier of Wall street, New York, on Friday, January 31st, seven -passengers, myself amongst the number, embarked for San Francisco, on -board the clipper ship Stag-Hound, under command of Capt. Josiah -Richardson. The wind blowing from the north-east afforded us a favorable -opportunity for standing out from land; of this, however, we did not -avail ourselves until about 4 o’clock in the afternoon; for, although -our vessel was towed out early in the morning, and every thing seemed to -be in readiness for our final departure, yet, through some unavoidably -delay, we were obliged to cast anchor off Staten Island, where it became -necessary for us to remain until the time above mentioned. We then -weighed anchor, set sail, and in a few minutes our noble ship was -gliding over the blue waves with swan-like grace. - -It was truly a magnificent sight, as we headed off so smoothly and so -majestically from the shore, and made our way out farther and farther -upon the dark blue deep; we spent the greater part of the evening -promenading the quarter-deck, and admiring the enchanting scene. But our -reverie and conversation were not altogether undisturbed by melancholy -thought. We had just started upon a long, uncertain and monotonous -voyage. Old associations had been broken up. We had bid adieu to our -native homes, our nearest relations and dearest friends, probably for -three or four years--possibly for ever. All before us then was an -unknown world--an untrodden path, and phantom-faces of doubt and fear -would loom up from the obscurity of the future. - -The next morning I began to feel symptoms of that most intolerable of -all sensations, seasickness. Of this malady I had some little experience -once before, while on my way from Philadelphia to New York via Cape May; -but I never entertained the least idea that it was half so depressing as -I now found it. For three weeks and more I could scarcely eat a -mouthful. It really seemed to me at times that eating was the most -abominable occupation men could engage in; and when I looked upon -dishes of which I had often freely partaken before coming on board the -vessel, I either found it difficult to reconcile myself to the opinion -that I was not dreaming, or came well nigh detesting myself for having -ever been addicted to so gross a habit. - -The monotony of our daily life was without variety for the next four or -five days. The wind had been somewhat favorable, and we were making good -progress until the evening of the fifth day, when suddenly the wind -changed and we shortly after found ourselves in the midst of as nice a -hurricane as ever sunk a ship or leveled a forest. The wind howled and -shrieked in such a manner that I could compare it with nothing earthly; -the sea, too, had assumed, by this time, a most formidable appearance; -the rain was falling in perfect torrents--the lightning flashed -incessantly, and such deafening thunder-peals mortal man never heard -before. It appeared as if the elements, for the last five days or so, -had been nursing their wrath for this particular occasion, and were -determined that we, poor devils of passengers, should be made thoroughly -acquainted with the comforts of a crowded ship in a tornado at sea. - -The poor affrighted passengers (myself among the rest) despaired of the -ship long before the severest part of the tempest was felt, and prayers -and promises were offered up without stint for our salvation, by many -that never prayed before and I suppose have never done so since. When -morning dawned it seemed as if the fury of the storm increased--sea and -sky were apparently as one; every thing, and every body appeared -helpless, hopeless, panic-stricken. Most of our canvas had been taken in -or closely furled, yet the ship dashed along with the speed of a -race-horse. Things that were not well secured rolled about in the -greatest disorder and confusion. The heavy seas which she had already -shipped, and the still heavier ones she was then shipping, increased, if -possible, the consternation inspired by the awful scene. In fact, things -began to wear such a threatening aspect, that a speedy change of some -sort was looked forward to with the greatest anxiety, not only by the -passengers, but by the captain and crew, when, to complete our terrors, -topgallant-masts, royals, and main-top-mast, with their appendages, came -down with a crash that was heard above the howling of the storm. By this -time the day had been spent, and night considerably advanced,--with fear -and trembling we retired to our state-rooms, doubting whether we should -ever be permitted to see the light of another day. For myself, I suppose -I was quite as indifferent about the matter as any one else; for, when a -person gets to be as much under the influence of nausea as I was at the -time, any change is desirable, even though it carry him to the bottom of -the deep. The night passed, and we found that the storm was beginning to -abate, so that, in about forty-eight hours thereafter, its violence had -entirely ceased, and fine weather attended us across the equator. - -The loss of our masts, in this severe gale, at once threw a damper on -our high hopes of a quick passage; but, fortunately for us, we had extra -masts on board; and, through the indefatigable exertions and -perseverance of our vigilant captain, we succeeded in getting all the -wreck cleared away and jury-masts rigged. The shattered timbers and torn -sails opened an unusually large field of labor for our carpenter and -sail-maker. We kept on our course, which had been very nearly south-east -ever since we started, until we passed the Cape Verde Islands, about -four degrees to the west, when we steered due south, and crossed the -equator between twenty-nine and thirty degrees west longitude. - -The next interesting event that happened to us occurred off the coast of -Brazil, in latitude 22° 25´--longitude 38° 29´, Sunday, March 2d. It was -about six o’clock in the morning, and I had just left my state-room and -gone on deck to take a bath, when a sailor by my side, pointing over the -starboard bow, cried out, “Boat ahoy! boat ahoy! with men in it.” In an -instant, as if by electricity, the news was conveyed to every ear on -board, and, at the same time, the starboard rail was lined fore and aft -with anxious sailors and half-dressed passengers. As we drew near them, -(they had been rowing towards us all the while as hard as they could -pull,) they commenced waving their hands and handkerchiefs, beckoning to -us and calling out in an unintelligible language, as if imploring us to -receive them on board. At the time, the sea was running moderately high, -and we were gliding along at the rate of five or six knots per hour, so -that in a few minutes we had them directly astern of us; but we were not -so destitute of humanity as to pass them by and leave them to certain -death. Our sympathies were quickly and enthusiastically aroused in their -behalf, and as soon as our captain could get his ship under proper -command, he hove her to and waited for them to row along side. Pretty -soon they came close under the lee of our vessel, and their -weather-beaten features and nautical garb at once gave evidence that -they were not unacquainted with the life of sea-faring men. - -A rope was thrown to them and they were all able to pull themselves on -board by it, except one, whom we afterwards ascertained to be their -captain,--he, poor fellow, was so much exhausted that he could not help -himself, and we were obliged to hoist him in. Their story was the next -thing to be learned; for, as yet, not a word they said had been -understood. This difficulty was removed, however, as soon as we got our -men collected; for, among our polyglot assemblage of men, representing -nearly forty different nations, we quickly found an interpreter in the -person of an old Swede, whose translation of their story was, in -substance, as follows:--They were Swedes and belonged to the Russian -brig Sylphide, which had been to Rio and taken in a cargo of eighteen -hundred and twenty-five bags of coffee, with which they had set sail for -Helsingfors, Finland,--when five days out from Rio, a severe storm, or -rather squall, came upon them, and so completely and suddenly wrecked -their vessel, that they had barely time to escape in one of the little -boats with their lives--not even having an opportunity to procure so -much as a bottle of water or a mouthful of food. So precipitate and -unexpected was the calamity which thus overtook them, that they had to -quit their brig without any preparation whatever, and abandon their -carpenter, who happened to be in his berth sick at the time, to a watery -grave. - -They had been out three days and nights in this condition, with nothing -to eat or drink, save the legs of their captain’s boots, which they said -they had been chewing to sustain life. Exposed as they were to the -burning rays of a tropical sun, without any thing to eat or drink, it is -not reasonable to suppose that they would have lived more than three -days longer at farthest, if we had not picked them up, or if they had -not been otherwise providentially relieved. We received the captain in -our own cabin, and at our own table, and entertained him as hospitably -and agreeably in every way as it was possible for us to do. His men went -before the mast, and proved a very acceptable addition to our crew, -especially in doubling Cape Horn, for they could endure the cold much -better than our own seamen. That day, in commendation of the act we had -performed in the morning, our captain,--who, by the by, was a very -exemplary and devout scion of an orthodox Yankee house,--read, during -divine service, the parable of the Good Samaritan. - -About three o’clock in the afternoon of the same day, a little -circumstance came under my observation, which, though it may seem quite -a trivial affair in the eyes of many, may nevertheless serve to -illustrate in some degree the barbarity of man and his utter -indifference in regard to the lives of inferior animals. The subject of -the incident was a small land bird, very much resembling our hedge -sparrow, which was discovered resting upon one of the larboard main -braces. A gust or blast of wind had probably driven it out to sea, and -it could not find its way back to the shore. It was so weak that it -could scarcely fly, and looked as if it was almost dead. On seeing it, I -ran below and got a few crumbs of bread and strewed them along over the -life-boat nearest to it. But just at that moment, the Swedish captain, -who had now begun to resuscitate, came up on deck; and spying the -distressed little wanderer, he walked up as boldly and deliberately to -the rope upon which it was sitting, as if it had been some noxious -intruder, and shook it violently. Thus frightened, the bird flew off -some distance from the ship, but soon returned and alighted in the very -same place; again the captain shook the rope as he had done at first, -and again the bird did just as it had done before. This same thing was -repeated for the third time, when the wearied little creature, -apparently disgusted with the brutality of the man, who but a few hours -before was himself in a forlorn and helpless condition, dropped down -upon the water, and was seen no more. - -Keeping along down the South American coast, we passed between Patagonia -and the Falkland Islands; and on the morning of the 21st of March were -within twenty miles of Staten Land. This was the first land we had seen -since leaving home, and we feasted our eyes upon it, until our ship bore -us so far distant that it had dwindled down to a mere speck. When we -were near enough to Staten Land, I could see with the aid of the -captain’s spy-glass nothing but rugged and sterile mountains, the -highest peaks of which were covered with snow, and presented quite a -picturesque appearance. No vegetation nor living thing of any kind could -be discerned. But a young Bostonian, whom we afterwards saw in -Valparaiso, told us he passed so near the shore of some of the land -lying at the southern extremity of Patagonia, that he could see the -natives, who, he said, were a gigantic people, about eight feet high! He -also said they ran along on the shore abreast of his vessel, whooping -and yelling at him like a set of ferocious savages. On Sunday following -we saw Cape Horn, the most notorious of all places upon the high seas -for rough weather and contrary winds. - -Up to this time we had been congratulating ourselves upon the auspicious -season in which we had happened to reach the Cape, and upon the quick -run we were going to make around it. Delightful weather and favorable -winds had cheered us since leaving the latitude of the La Plata river, -and we were in high hopes that we had just hit upon the right time to -sail safely round the dangerous Cape in one or two days, instead of -being kept there six or eight weeks, as is sometimes the case. But we -were doomed to sad disappointment. Towards night that terror of all -navigators, a downright Cape Horn tempest, assailed us, and for seven -successive days and nights kept us almost completely submerged. During -the whole of this time, the wind, which was so intolerably cold and -piercing that it seemed to be charged with isicles, blew right in our -teeth, and brought hail, sleet, rain or snow with it every hour. Owing -to this hard and continued blowing of the wind, the size and power of -the waves became perfectly appalling; indeed they ran so heavy and so -high that each one looked like a little ocean of itself, and frequently -they would strike the ship with such tremendous force that she quivered -and groaned as if she were going to pieces; in fact, I often expected to -see her shivered into fragments, and could hardly believe otherwise than -that we were all destined to become food for the fierce monsters of the -deep. We succeeded, however, in getting fairly around the Cape, much to -the gratification of all, and especially to the relief of our worn-out -seamen, who had been up working with all their might, day and night, for -a whole week. - -While in the neighborhood of the Cape, we saw great numbers of the -albatross, gull, petrel, and other birds; by means of a fish-hook tied -to the end of a long line, and baited with a piece of fat bacon, which -we let out some eight or ten rods from the stern of the vessel, we -caught several of a species which the sailors called the Cape Hen. On -measuring one of them from the tip of its right wing to the tip of its -left, I found it to be seven feet across. The albatross is about twice -as large as the Cape Hen. Here, too, while in this latitude, we had our -fairest views of the great Southern Cross and the Magellan Clouds, -constellations of as much notoriety in the southern hemisphere, as the -Pleiades and Belt of Orion are in the northern. - -It seems that the Atlantic and Pacific oceans are ever at war with each -other off Cape Horn, where their waters are continually coming into mad -collision, as if no friendship existed between them. But we will now bid -adieu to this aquatic battle field, this bleak, dreary region of storms -and hurricanes, and look forward to a more congenial clime. - -Finding our water was now beginning to give out, and that we should have -to procure a fresh supply before we could reach San Francisco, we bent -our course towards Valparaiso, upon the coast of Chili, south of the -city and harbor to which we were then bound; and as we passed along up -the shore, we had a most magnificent view, not only of its own long -range of barren hills, but also of the lofty and towering heights of the -Andes at the distance of one hundred and forty-five miles in the -interior. To add to the grandeur of this spectacle on land, another now -presented itself on the ocean around us, in the form of great -whales--the first we had seen. We saw many of these huge creatures that -day and the next; one of them came within two or three rods of the stern -of the ship, and spouted the water with a noise something like that of a -high pressure Mississippi steamboat. - -We had scarcely dropped our anchor in the harbor of Valparaiso before we -were surrounded with little boats filled with natives and foreigners, -who had come out, as they said, to talk with us and to see our ship. -From these men we learned that four days previously a severe earthquake -had been felt, and that all the houses in the city had been more or less -injured--a part of the city completely destroyed, and some few persons -killed. It was also reported by some of them, that it had laid a great -portion of Santiago, the capital, in ruins; but, as yet, no definite -news had been received from any of the inland cities or towns; and it -was not positively ascertained what amount of damage had been sustained -in any place, save only here. Late that evening, about half an hour -before sundown, we passengers made our entrance into the city; but it -was then too late in the day to see or learn any thing of interest, so -we returned directly to our own quarters aboard the ship, and waited in -suspense for the coming morn. - -Immediately after an early breakfast, Wednesday morning, we put off in a -small boat for the shore, and were not a little surprised on arriving -there to find every thing so new and so different from what we had -supposed. Crowds of the natives, dressed in their peculiar costume, were -collected upon the wharves, and were making a great hubbub with their -clamorous tongues and noisy actions. They appeared to be an inoffensive, -simple-hearted sort of people; but they were inexcusably ignorant, and -abominably filthy. - -Scarcely had we been in the city half an hour that morning, when I -stepped into a barbershop to have the superfluous hair removed from my -head and face. While in the very act of shaving me, the barber very -suddenly sprang aghast from me towards the door; and the first thing I -knew, the whole earth, houses and every thing around me, were quivering -in the most terrific manner; but, fortunately for the timid, helpless -creatures, the vacillation continued but a few seconds, and no very -serious consequences resulted from it. Just at the moment the rumbling -and quaking commenced, I could not for my life think what it was; but -the barber seemed to understand it immediately, for he had been the -unwilling spectator of a much more destructive earthquake only five days -before; and consequently, he knew well enough what the matter was. On -retiring from the shop, just as I entered the street, a similar shock -was experienced, and instantaneously the whole population rushed -headlong out of their houses into the thoroughfares, apparently in the -greatest distress, and frightened half out of their wits. I observed -several of the women particularly, who, upon running into the streets, -immediately placed themselves in an attitude of prayer, by falling upon -their knees, crossing their hands upon their breasts, and casting their -eyes towards heaven. There was something really beautiful and touching -in the unfeigned humility with which these awe-struck mortals resigned -themselves to the will of Him who alone is able to convulse worlds, or -command tranquillity throughout the universe. - -Both of these tremors were slight, and neither did much mischief. But -the one that occurred four days previous to our arrival came very near -laying the whole city in ruins. The custom house, churches, stores, and -nearly all the principal buildings were cracked so badly that many of -them were considered dangerous. The people were engaged in pulling down -some entirely, and repairing others as best they could. The ground was -terribly rent in many places; and while on a stroll beyond the limits of -the city, I saw one crevasse which was about five inches in width, and -so long and so deep that I could find neither end nor bottom to it. We -remained in Valparaiso till the afternoon of Saturday, but did not feel -any other shock. For myself, I was satisfied with what I saw then, and -having been since shaken by them two or three times during my sojourn in -California, I hope I shall never feel another. - -As for the city itself, we saw nothing that was really beautiful about -it. The majority of the residences were built of mud and straw, and -covered with tiles; and were, I think, upon the whole, rather inferior -to the negro huts upon a southern plantation. The immense sterile hills -all round, about, and through the city, presented quite a dreary and -desolate appearance, and prevented us from seeing more than half the -number of its buildings at the same time. One of the merchants, a New -Orleans man, informed me that the population was estimated at from -60,000 to 65,000. Speaking of this merchant reminds me of a remarkable -instance of stupidity which came under my observation one morning while -visiting his store. He had just received fifty barrels of pork, which -the drayman had left before his door, and which he wished to have stowed -in his cellar. His regular porter being sick, he hired two doltish -countrymen to perform the job. It was stipulated that they should -receive a certain sum of money for removing the pork from the street -into the cellar; and the bargain being fairly understood on both sides, -they began to fulfil their part of the contract, by _lifting_ the -barrels instead of rolling them. We allowed them to pursue this toilsome -system of labor until they had finished about one fifth of their task, -when we interposed and explained to them the easier method of -accomplishing it. It is a fact, according to their own confession, that -they had not sense enough to avail themselves of the rotundity of the -barrels. - -Valparaiso surpasses San Francisco in the abruptness of its surface and -the barrenness of its soil. There is no plant within sight of the town, -except here and there in the little vales and hollows. The inhabitants -have to bring all their supplies from beyond the coast range, a distance -of nine or ten miles; and as the hills are so large and so steep that -they cannot be traversed with vehicles, every thing must be transported -upon the backs of mules. The interior of Chili is represented to be a -very beautiful and productive country; and, to use the language of her -historian, “all the fruits of the earth grow there in the greatest -abundance.” Towards noon that day, we chartered some donkeys and rode -out about two miles, to a garden called the Vale of Paradise, in the -upper part of the city. This was one of the most charming spots I ever -beheld, and, with the exception of two or three other little places like -it, the only level and fertile piece of ground we saw during the whole -time we were there. Here, on the 9th of April, we got apples, pears, -peaches, pomegranates, pine apples, quinces, oranges, lemons, figs, -bananas, mangoes and melons, to our hearts’ content. - -On Thursday, having wandered from my comrades, I began to perambulate -the streets alone, determined to see and learn as much of the city as -practicable. At last I found I had wandered very nearly to its northern -outskirts, when I came to a little winding path, which I followed up -till it led me to the opened gate of a beautiful, palisaded inclosure. -Upon looking in I observed a long, clean, level walk in the midst of the -most delectable garden I ever saw. All the way overhead, from one end of -the walk to the other, there were large, luscious clusters of grapes, -hanging down in the richest profusion; while on either side there seemed -to be an actual rivalry in growth and luxuriance between the various -fruits and vegetables. About half way up the walk, in a well shaded -place, two middle-aged men, dressed in long robes, and with books in -their hands, were sitting on a bench, reading. Still I continued to -stand at the gate, admiring the fascinating scenery before me, being -seen by nobody, and seeing no one myself, except the two gownsmen, whose -attention seemed to be wholly absorbed by their books. To go in I feared -would not only be an interruption to the quietude and serenity which -pervaded those elysian grounds, but also an intrusion upon the privacy -of gentlemen whom I had no right to disturb. However, hoping to frame a -reasonable excuse by offering to purchase some fruit, I stepped in, and -slowly approaching the literary group, inquired, “Do you speak English?” -Scarcely had the words fallen from my tongue, when the one who sat -farthest from me arose, and having replied in the affirmative, extended -his hand towards me in a very cordial manner, and then asked me a long -question in Latin, not a word of which I understood except the -termination, which was “St. Patrick?” Manifesting by my looks, as well -as I could, my ignorance of his ecclesiastical salutation, -interrogation, or whatever it was, he immediately dropped his classical -lore, and conversed with me freely in English--both of us, in the -meantime, promenading up and down the lovely arbor. From him I learned -that the adjoining buildings were occupied as a Roman Catholic college, -and that this garden was exclusively for the use and benefit of the -priests, of whom he was one, as well as a professor in the institution. -He informed me that it was the largest and most popular college in -Chili, and that they had students from nearly all the republics and -provinces of the continent. He himself was a native of Belgium, but had -emigrated to South America as a missionary some fifteen years prior to -the time I saw him. The book he then held in his hand was a Spanish -history of the United States; and as he asked me a great many questions -concerning our country, I inferred that he felt a good deal of interest -in it. Upon the whole, he appeared to be a very kindhearted and -well-disposed man. Just before leaving, he presented me with a mammoth -bunch of delicious grapes, and at parting, gave my hand a courteous and -sincere shake. - -At this place we parted with the wrecked crew we had picked up five -weeks before, leaving them in the hands of the Russian consul. But -before bidding a final adieu to the captain, we purchased a gold ring -and inclosed it in a sympathizing epistle to his wife, condoling with -her in her husband’s misfortunes. When we committed the letter and -little keepsake to his charge, he seemed to be very much affected, and -acknowledged himself under a thousand obligations to us. - -Little occurred on our passage from Valparaiso to San Francisco worthy -of note, except the myriads of fish of various kinds which we saw -between the tropics, the sublime sunrises and sunsets, the enchanting -moonlight evenings, and the phosphorescent phenomena of the ocean at -night. The Pacific far surpasses the Atlantic in beauty and diversity of -ocean scenery. Its gentle gales and placid waves inexpressibly charm -the heart of the sailor. Almost every species of fish, from the tiny -pilchard to the monstrous whale may be found in its waters; while -countless numbers of aquatic birds, from the diminutive petrel to the -ponderous albatross, swim lazily upon its bosom. - -Six days after leaving Valparaiso we passed within a short distance of -the St. Felix Islands, which rise alone out of the world of water. We -could see nothing that had life in it about them, nor any thing that was -inviting or pleasing to the eye. On the morning of the 5th May, we again -crossed the equator, in longitude 114°. - -This voyage afforded us an excellent opportunity for reading; but it may -well be supposed that, in traveling seventeen thousand miles upon the -water, we were sometimes overcome with ennui. As a refuge from this -monotony of “life on the ocean wave,” we betook ourselves to games of -euchre, whist, chess, backgammon and solitaire. Our ship being very -large, perfectly new, beautifully and comfortably finished, and -furnished with the very best accommodations, eatables and drinkables, we -enjoyed ourselves remarkably well, except while sea-sick, or when dashed -and beaten about by ill-bred storms and hurricanes. As there were only -six passengers besides myself, we had abundance of room; and being -together so long, and secluded from all other society, we became as -sociable and familiar as if we had all been members of the same -household. A very amiable and estimable young lady, the sister of a -passenger, and the only female on board, contributed in an eminent -degree to the pleasure of the trip. - -We arrived in San Francisco on the 25th of May, having made the passage -in one hundred and thirteen days from New York. This was a very quick -run, considering the misfortunes we met with off the Bermudas. If we had -not been dismasted, we would probably have reached our destination -twelve or fifteen days earlier. The Flying Cloud, clipper-modeled, and -built almost exactly like the Stag Hound, ran from New York to San -Francisco in eighty-nine days, which is the shortest voyage that has yet -been made by a sailing vessel between the two ports. Many of the -old-fashioned ships crawl along for seven or eight months: and I know -one blunt, tub-like carac which consumed three hundred and seventy days -in the passage. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - -VOYAGE FROM CALIFORNIA VIA NICARAGUA. - - -About six hundred homeward-bound passengers, myself included, left San -Francisco on the 16th of March, in the splendid steamship Cortes, under -command of Captain Cropper. It being our intention to reach the -Caribbean sea by the Nicaragua route, we bent our course towards San -Juan del Sur. Wind and wave both favored our movements, and we made -rapid progress. Stray thoughts occupied my mind as my eyes rested for -the last time upon the barren hills of California. There I had witnessed -many strange sights and incidents. Should I ever see them again? Was it -probable that I would stop to renew my acquaintance with them while on -my way to Japan and China in 1875, by the great Atlantic and Pacific -railway? My mind, however, was occupied but a little while in the -consideration of these matters. There was before me a country which -engendered a brighter train of thoughts than that which I was leaving -behind. I began to think of greeting the good old folks at home; of -joining long-parted hands, and of roaming over the glades and glens -which first supported my tottering steps. - -Our gallant ship continued to glide bravely on towards the place of her -destination. Neither accident nor rough weather happened to us, and we -should have enjoyed ourselves finely if there had not been so many -persons on board. The crowd was too large for a pleasure party at sea. -There were too many months to feed, too many berths to adjust, and too -many complaints to be heard. Somebody was always in the way of somebody -else. We were too much pent up. There was an abundance of room all -around us, above and below us; but it was not adapted to our purposes. -The Cortez was our only foothold; and it was necessary that we should -cling to her as the only means of reaching terra firma. - -But I imagine those of us who had state-rooms on the cabin-deck would -not have felt any disposition to murmur, if we had known how much better -we fared than the other passengers. Only about one hundred and fifty -enjoyed this advantage; all the others were huddled together in the -steerage. Is it reasonable to suppose that any considerable number of -these four hundred and fifty persons would have engaged such -uncomfortable and unwholesome passage, if they could have done better? -No. They could scarcely have been hired to pass through the torrid zone -in the steerage, if they had possessed money enough to pay for a -cabin-passage. It is a well-known fact that the steamers bring a much -larger number of steerage passengers from California than they take -there. The majority of those that go to California take passage in the -cabin; but more than two-thirds of those who return occupy the steerage. -As a matter of course, there was no communication between the cabin and -steerage passengers; at least those in the steerage were not allowed to -come abaft the ship; but I do not think our privileges were -circumscribed in this respect, for I went forward of the bulkhead -several times, as did many others who belonged in the cabin, and the -officers said nothing to us. - -There was quite a medley of characters in the cabin. Bishop Soule, of -the Methodist Episcopal Church, South, may be placed at the head. He is -a stout, fine-looking old gentleman, about seventy years of age; and I -sincerely believe he was the best man aboard the vessel. He had been -stirring up the sinners in California for some time, and was now -returning to his home in Georgia. Next came the Rev. Dr. Boring and -three or four other clergymen, one of whom had formerly been a -missionary in Brazil. The Secretary of Utah Territory, a downright jolly -fellow, dressed in a suit of buckskin, and who, while on the Isthmus, -manifested a most ardent passion for parrots, was also on board. Besides -these, there were eight colonels, seven majors, five captains, three -professors, six doctors, ten quacks, five lawyers, eight pettifoggers, -a score of blacklegs, six or eight ladies, a dozen other adult females, -and fifteen or twenty children. We also had the company of a Polish -patriot, who was on his way to the East to join the Turkish army. - -On the seventh or eighth day after our departure from San Francisco, one -of the passengers, while taking spy-glass observations, espied a -motionless object at a great distance on the water--the sea at the time -being perfectly calm and smooth. The spy-glass passed rapidly from hand -to hand, and was kept almost constantly leveled towards the object; but -nobody could determine what it was. One man thought it a ship in -distress; another inclined to the opinion that it was abandoned -altogether; while a third sighingly expressed his conviction that it was -the decaying remnant of a melancholy wreck. The captain, more -dispassionate, experienced, and capable of forming a correct judgment, -now surveyed it carefully; but it was so far off upon the larboard -quarter, that he acknowledged himself unable to give any reliable -information concerning it. What then was to be done? Should we stifle -our curiosity and continue on our course, or should we change and go to -the mysterious object? Some favored one proposition, and some the other. -Considerable betting had been going on as to the number of days we -would be occupied in making the passage, and one half of those who had -thus wagered their money were opposed to losing the time which it would -require to make the examination. But the motion to go being seconded and -sanctioned by a large majority of the passengers, the captain -immediately turned the prow of the steamer. - -After sailing awhile on this new track, we discovered a large flock of -longipennate birds flying around the wreck to which we were then bound. -This was an ominous sign. What were these sea buzzards doing about a -disabled vessel, if they were not feeding on the dead bodies of seamen? -But the rapid movement of the Cortez assured us that our curiosity -should soon be allayed. With the aid of the spy-glass we could now view -the object distinctly; and on approaching still nearer, we found it was -nothing but an old empty scow! and that it was frequented by the fowls -of the sea merely because it afforded them a place to rest and to roost. -What a sore disappointment it was, not to find the carcasses of a -hundred starved sailors! A day or two after this, one of the steerage -passengers died, an old sail was wrapped around him, two pieces of -pig-iron were fastened to his feet, and he was cast overboard. - -Early in the morning of the thirteenth day of our pilgrimage upon the -water, we arrived at San Juan del Sur, a miserable, good-for-nothing -little town, situated on the western coast of Nicaragua, near the -eleventh parallel of north latitude. The harbor was as mean and ugly as -the town, being very small, shallow and inconvenient. There were no -piers nor wharves, and we had to cast anchor about one hundred and fifty -yards from the shore. Large yawls were then prepared for us, and we were -conveyed as near terra firma as the depth of the harbor would allow. But -when the yawls struck bottom, I think we were still from twenty-five to -thirty yards from the water’s edge; and there were no means or -facilities of reaching the shore, except by wading, or by straddling the -shoulders of the half-breed, quarter-dressed natives, scores of whom, in -the hope of making a few shillings, were standing waist-deep in the -water all around us, and begging us to take seats on their backs, a -request with which, after some deliberation, we complied. - -During this novel process of debarkation, I witnessed some most -ludicrous scenes. The Nicaraguans, generally speaking, are much more -feeble, dwarfed, and effeminate than the people of the United States. On -an average, I should think that one able-bodied Kentuckian would be -equal to four or five of these hybrid denizens of the torrid zone. It -will not, therefore, surprise the reader when I tell him that the small -man, while carrying the large one through the water, being top-heavy, -would sometimes drop his burden! Nor was this all; the ladies were yet -behind, and they had to be brought ashore in the same manner! - -Among our passengers were two or three oleaginous men, of Falstaff -proportions; one of whom engaged a couple of the stoutest carriers -around the yawl to convey him to the shore. Fixing himself upon their -shoulders as well as he could, he signified to them that he was ready, -and they made for land; but before they had proceeded half a dozen -steps, he weighed them down, and all three fell flat on their backs in -the water! This little mishap created a great deal of merriment; and -several others who had just mounted and started, unable to restrain -their laughter, leaned back too far to give it vent, and down they -tumbled into the water likewise! It was necessary for the rider, or -topmost man, to keep himself in a quiet, perpendicular position; for if -he leaned backward, or forward, or sideway, he was sure to throw the -carrier off his equilibrium, in which case both of them would fall down -together. - -The ladies had now arrived from the Cortez, and were ready to disembark. -There was but one way for them to get ashore, and that has already been -explained. They, too, were compelled to straddle the shoulders of the -natives; and when fairly mounted, give the signal of command, and ride -ahead boldly, like equestrian amazons in a circus. It may here be -remarked that these men were nearly naked, there being no apparel upon -them except a kind of bandage or wrapper around their loins. The manner -of mounting the carrier, whose head was almost on a level with the rim -of the yawl, was to place the right limb over his right shoulder, and -the left over his left; and when thus conveyed to the shore, it was a -very easy matter to part the limbs from his shoulders, and slide down -his back. These, then, were the means and facilities which were afforded -for the disembarkation of the ladies; and I have thus dwelt upon the -subject for the purpose of informing my fair readers, if I have any, -what they may expect upon their arrival at San Juan del Sur. - -All the passengers and baggage were now landed, and after a deal of -vexation in securing checks and transit tickets, we set forward across -the country in the direction of Virgin Bay, a shabby village, situated -about fifteen miles distant, on Lake Nicaragua. We traveled this part of -the way on donkeys. The roads were in pretty fair condition, and a few -of the ladies, being well skilled in horsemanship, rode sideways, but -the majority of them having but little knowledge of equestrian -exercises, rode like men. This was my first entrance into the dismal -glories of a tropical forest. The trees pressed against each other for -room, and were clothed with the heaviest and most luxuriant foliage I -ever beheld, presenting every tint and shade of green. Coppice and -parasites filled up the interstices between them. Myriads of -gay-plumaged birds warbled upon their branches. Ten thousand times ten -thousand insects chirped beneath their limbs. Nimble monkeys ran up -their trunks, and venomous reptiles slept in their shadows. - -To give an idea of the weather, I will simply say that, if I intended to -become a citizen of Nicaragua, I should advocate the immediate -construction of three public works, namely: a government bellows, a -state fan, and a great national umbrella! With the aid of these cooling -machines, I should think a person might manage to keep passably -comfortable; but without them, the heat is almost intolerable. In our -own country, the people are apt to complain of the hot days which dawn -upon them in July and August, but the caloric of the United States bears -no more comparison to that of Nicaragua than a frosty morning in -Carolina to a perpetual winter in Greenland. - -We rode on, however, in spite of the fiery heat of the sun, and arrived -at Virgin Bay in good season for dinner. There were eight or ten dirty -little taverns in this despicable little town, and as it was uncertain -how long we should have to wait for our baggage, which was still -behind, and which was not expected before night, we placed ourselves in -charge of the landlords, who were highly pleased to receive such a -multitude of guests. About four o’clock in the afternoon, I went down to -the lake to bathe, having been previously assured that the alligators -did not frequent that side of the bay, except during the night. - -The scenery here was grand beyond description. Lake Nicaragua itself may -be justly termed an inland sea. It is more than one hundred miles long, -and sixty miles in width. Mount Ometepe, a dormant volcano, and by far -the most beautiful elevation I ever saw, rises up out of the midst of -this lake, in the form of a sugar-loaf, to the height of seven thousand -feet. At a rough guess, I should say it was about fifty miles in -circumference at the base, or rather at the surface of the water. - -A little before sunset, I returned to my hotel, and took supper. I had, -however, but little appetite for culinary preparations, for I had fed -myself on such a quantity of mangoes, oranges, bananas, and other -tropical fruits, that I was quite surfeited. Forty or fifty hammocks -were suspended in the loft of the hotel, and these were more attractive -than any other part of the entertainment. - -We sat up until nearly midnight, waiting for our baggage, but it did not -come; and we were then informed that it would not arrive before -morning. The sun arose and found us still separated from our effects. -Noon came and brought the baggage with it. Thus you see we had suffered -an unnecessary delay of twenty-four hours at Virgin Bay. The steamer -Ometepe was now ready to receive us, and as we were all anxious to reach -home, we lost no time in going aboard. From this place we sailed in a -south-easterly direction until breakfast hour next morning, when we -arrived at Fort San Carlos, where we entered the San Juan river, which -conveys the waters of Lake Nicaragua into the Caribbean Sea. There was -nothing to be seen at San Carlos, except the dilapidated fort, and it -was not worth looking at. Here we had to leave the Ometepe, and embark -on a smaller boat, the river being too shallow to float a vessel of deep -draught. - -Pursuing the current of the San Juan, we passed the unworthy little -village of Castillo, and again changed boats, leaving one of sorry -dimensions behind, and taking passage in a meaner one of less size, and -now came the peculiar annoyance of the route. Owing to the shoals and -sand banks in the river, we had to change ourselves and our baggage -several times; and every change we made was from bad to worse. Those of -us who had taken passage in the cabin, though we had paid more than -double the price of steerage tickets, received no extra accommodation -whatever. We were reduced to a level with the steerage passengers at -San Juan del Sur, and no manner of distinction was made between us until -we reached the opposite coast. For three days and nights we were all -crowded together in utter disorder and confusion; men, women and -children, white people and negroes, decent men and blackguards--all -fared alike. The presence of the ladies did not seem to exercise any -restraint upon the tongues of the vulgar. I am sure I had never before -been in the company of a set of human beings who were capable of giving -utterance to such an incessant volley of scurrilous and obscene language -as I heard while crossing the Isthmus. - -There was not a mouthful of victuals prepared for us on board of these -miserable, rickety little steamers; nor was there any place to sleep, -except on deck, among puddles of tobacco juice. Occasionally we had an -opportunity of buying fruits and refreshments on the way; and this was -the only method we had of procuring any thing to eat. I do not think I -slept two hours out of the seventy-two which we occupied in passing the -two oceans. Indeed, the Transit Company treated us very shabbily. We had -paid them their price, and they had promised us better things. -Sometimes, to save the steamer from running aground, we had to debark, -and walk on the bank of the river. On one occasion we were compelled to -travel more than two miles in this manner, before we could find water -deep enough to carry us aboard the boat. As we neared the mouth of the -river, we met and overtook a great many adult natives, who were in the -same costume in which nature had launched them into the world. They did -not seem to be conscious of any impropriety in thus exposing their -persons. - -Nicaragua can never fulfil its destiny until it introduces negro -slavery. Nothing but slave labor can ever subdue its forests or -cultivate its untimbered lands. White men may live upon its soil with an -umbrella in one hand and a fan in the other; but they can never unfold -or develop its resources. May we not safely conclude that negro slavery -will be introduced into this country before the lapse of many years? We -think so. The tendency of events fully warrants this inference. - -The time may come when negro slavery will no longer be profitable in the -United States; and it is also possible that the descendants of Ham may -finally work their way beyond the present limits of our country. But if -these fated people ever do make their exodus from the hands of their -present owners, they will find themselves journeying and toiling under -the control of new masters, in the fertile wildernesses and savannas -nearer the equator. Louisiana and Texas may, at some future time--far -in the future--find it to their interest to adopt the white slavery -system of the North; but if negro slavery ever ceases to exist in the -United States, Mexico, Central America, and the countries still further -South, will have to become its outlets and receptacles. - -It would be no easy task to find a more feeble and ineffective -population than that which now idles away a miserable existence in -Nicaragua. Nature is too bountiful to the inhabitants. It supplies them -with every necessary of life, and consequently there is no incentive to -exertion or emulation. Countless fruits and nuts grow and ripen -spontaneously, and they have nothing to do but to eat them. We did not -pass a single patch of ground under cultivation; nor did I see any -improvement, except the despicable little huts and shanties in which the -people lived. - -On the morning of the first day of April, we arrived at San Juan del -Norte, alias Greytown, which has recently handed its name down to -history, in connection with that of commander Hollins, by whom, in -compliance with instructions from our government, it was bombarded a few -months ago. We did not go on shore, but I saw enough of the place to -convince me that it was never worth half the paper which has been -spoiled by diplomatic notes concerning it. The Americans call it -Greytown, but the original Spanish name is San Juan del Norte, which, -when Anglicized, means Saint John of the North. As we have had a good -deal to say respecting San Juan del Sur, it may not be amiss to state -that the English of it is Saint John of the South. Just before we left -the mouth of the river, we saw eight or ten full-grown alligators, -basking on an islet, thirty or forty yards from us. They were all lying -near each other, and did not seem to be frightened at our appearance. I -was well pleased to have such a fair view of these amiable lizards, but -regretted my inability to secure one for Barnum! About three hundred of -our passengers waved us an adieu at Greytown, and took passage in the -steamer Daniel Webster for New Orleans. The rest immediately set sail -for New York, in the steamer Star of the West. - -We now found ourselves happily situated where we had good order, good -accommodations, and good treatment--three good things which many of us -had not been accustomed to for three long years. An air of propriety and -fitness pervaded the Star of the West fore and aft; and we felt as if we -were emerging from a vile and debased community, and entering upon the -threshold of refined society. No incident worthy of note occurred during -this part of our voyage. We were in hopes the captain would stop at -Kingston, Havana, or some other West India port; but he had no occasion -to do so. Passing on between Cuba and Yucatan, we rounded the Florida -Reefs, and then followed the Gulf stream until we reached the latitude -of Cape Hatteras, when we bore nearer the land, and ran into the harbor -of New York on Sunday, April 9th, having had a passage of twenty-four -days from San Francisco. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - -MY LAST MINING ADVENTURE. - - -More than satisfied with the experience I had acquired in mining -operations in California, I found much difficulty in deciding upon my -future course. At one time I made up my mind to try what the fickle jade -fortune would do for me in Australia, and even went so far as to engage -a passage on board of a ship that would sail for Sydney within a week. -An acquaintance and friend, to whom I imparted my intentions, earnestly -persuaded me to abandon my projected voyage, and urged me to accompany -him to Columbia and take an interest in a very promising mining -adventure. My friend said “he felt quite sure that we could make an -ounce ($16) a day each with the utmost ease, provided we were favored -with sufficient rain. And as the rainy season was close at hand, he was -fully satisfied that we should have as plentiful a supply of water as -our mining operations would require.” I had heard of these diggings -frequently, and that gold was found there in great abundance, but as no -stream watered these surface mines, they could only be worked during the -rainy season. As my friend’s story was corroborated by my own knowledge -of these things, I agreed without much hesitation to abandon my voyage -to Australia, and join him in this new mining expedition--mentally -resolving, however, that it should be the last of my efforts to become -suddenly rich by delving for gold in the mines of California. - -We left San Francisco in the latter part of the month of October, ran up -the river San Joaquin to Stockton in a stern-wheel steamboat, so crowded -with passengers that berths were entirely out of the question, and so we -were doomed to get through the night as best we could. And such a night! -It is my candid belief that for some unknown reason this particular -night lasted as long as thirteen others combined together, and that -during its continuance, I visited the infernal regions, upon the -pressing invitation of a legion of fiends, all wearing Chinamen’s hats -and long tails; moreover, I solemnly assert that almost every winged -insect and other creeping thing within a circuit of fifty leagues paid -their respects to us on board that miserable little steamboat. I have a -faint recollection of invoking the aid of all the saints in the calendar -for relief, but they would not hear me, and so I e’en concluded to -imitate great Cæsar’s example at the base of Pompey’s statue,--wrap my -head in my mantle, and thus resign myself to inexorable fate. As to my -friend, I had lost sight of him almost as soon as we entered the boat, -and it was no small gratification to think that remorse had caused him -to commit suicide, or some such thing. I trusted he had leaped overboard -from sheer compunction of conscience for having deluded me into this -scrape, and hoped by drowning himself to atone in some measure for his -atrocious conduct. Poor fellow! I forgave him, and mentally resolved to -get up something pathetic in the shape of an obituary notice, as thus: -Departed this life, on the evening of the 25th of October, 1853, by -water, one Shad Back, (real name supposed to be Shadrach Bachus,) aged -34, or there-away. The immediate cause of his death was remorse of -conscience for having decoyed an unsuspecting and virtuous youth on -board of a poor miserable craft crowded with passengers, without berths, -without seats, and swarming with vermin of every description, including -Chinamen. It is supposed that, in a moment of despair, produced by -witnessing the distress of his victim, he jumped into the river and was -drowned. His numerous friends cannot but bewail his untimely end, -although _some_ are of the opinion that it “sarved him right.” -_Requiescat in pace._ - -I thought I would add to this a verse or so from some suitable ditty, -but could hit upon nothing that would reach the case better than a -portion of Gray’s Elegy, beginning: “Here rests his head upon this lap -of earth,” &c. Now as I was not fully convinced that “his head _did_ -rest upon this lap of earth,” I deemed it best to change the text -slightly to meet the melancholy occasion, and make it read thus: - - _There_ rests beneath the briny wave, - A youth to linen and to soap unknown; - Fair science frowned, but failed to save - This blessed youth, who then went down. - -I confess my inability to state distinctly what is meant by the last -line; it seemed to rhyme with “unknown,” and as I never had been guilty -of an attempt of this kind before, I thought it would do very well as a -first effort in the line of poetry. I may as well here explain also, -that as I intended to have the whole thing painted upon a good sized -shingle, and that nailed upon some tree near the sea shore, I thought it -would be a good idea to have the hand with an extended finger painted -conspicuously on the shingle, to serve as a pointer towards the ocean; -this would sufficiently explain the meaning of “_there rests_,” and -“_briny wave_.” - -Notwithstanding the bodily torments I underwent during that livelong -night, with my head wrapped in a mantle and all the rest of my person -fairly given over to the tender mercies of thousands of mosquitos, -gnats, sand-flies, ants, ticks, fleas and bed-bugs, I really experienced -a strong sensation of relief upon reflecting how very handsomely I had -disposed of my friend’s earthly affairs. At the same time I thought it -quite possible that my good intentions towards his memory, coupled with -the fact of my sufferings, and the pains and penalties I had undergone -and was still enduring, would in a measure serve as a sort of atonement -for my own sins of omission and commission, beginning far back, at a -very early period of my life. - -Morning dawned at last, and I was in the very act of gathering the -remainder of my person into an upright position, when I heard a voice, -proceeding from beneath an immense heap of Chinamen, Irishmen, and -niggers, calling me by name, and entreating my assistance to get him -upon his legs. I seemed to know the voice very well, but could not -recall to mind the owner. Deeming it, however, the duty of a good -Christian to help a distressed fellow-creature, I made my way through -the crowd to the spot whence the voice issued, and there, to my intense -grief and astonishment, I beheld my friend Shad upon his back, actively -engaged in repelling, with hands and feet, the united assaults of a -strong force, composed of three Irishmen and four Chinese fellows. I -became convinced, the moment I saw his position, that if he escaped -hanging for his misdemeanors in California, he would become a great -general, and an ornament to the military profession. I came to this -conclusion because, at the moment I saw him, he was preparing to repel -the enemy in a most masterly manner. The allies were _en potence_, and -had already attacked and dispersed Shad’s advanced guard, making -prisoners of his outlying pickets (his boots and hat) in a gallant -manner. Then with a determination to conquer or die, rushed upon the -main body. Here, after a most desperate struggle, during which many -great deeds of daring were exhibited, the enemy were repulsed with -immense loss. Much as I deprecate war in any shape, yet I could not -sufficiently admire the calm and collected appearance of Shad, even when -in the heat of the _melee_. One particular feat performed by one of -Shad’s feet, was observed by me with much astonishment, and it seemed to -strike an Irishman very forcibly too, as he honored the performance by -immediate prostration. The enemy had retired to a distance, and no doubt -held a council of war, and from the disposition of his forces shortly -after, I judged his intention was to make a demonstration upon Shad’s -front, and then attack him with his whole concentrated force in the -rear. My conjecture proved correct. I saw in a moment that this manœvre -must prove successful, unless Shad could strengthen his flanks, or form -himself into a hollow square. And here it soon became apparent how -profoundly my friend had studied the art of attack and defence. A pocket -edition of Vauban must have been his constant companion, or he never -could have assumed such a formidable appearance as that which he now -presented. Like an able general, he had divined the enemy’s intentions, -and to meet the emergency, had disposed his person in such a manner that -he could swing himself around like a teetotum while lying upon his back, -much the same as a long eighteen upon a pivot. In this position, or -rather with this rotary motion, Shad was invulnerable. He presented a -front in every direction, and utterly defeated the enemy’s most -strenuous efforts to capture him. - -At this stage of the proceedings, I proposed mediating between the high -contending parties, which proposal being acceded to, I forthwith decided -the matter in difference, (of which I did not understand one word,) by -decreeing a forfeiture of Shad’s boots, the restoration of his hat, and -the payment by Shad for two gallons of _red-eye_, to regale the company. -This last decision was received with marked respect by all but my poor -friend. It was also decreed that the captured boots should belong -hereafter to the most _devout_ of the belligerents. Thereupon they were -deposited at the feet of a boy from the sod, who, since his prostration, -had been seated on deck, curved up in a manner quite curious to behold. -He resembled the capital letter G as much as any thing I could think of -at the time. Peace having been solemnly proclaimed, I had now an -opportunity of better observing my friend Back’s personal appearance. He -had never been very remarkable for great personal beauty at any period -of his life, and as the late battle had not left him wholly unscathed, -it would have proved a great hit indeed to an artist, if he could have -taken his likeness just then! When we came on board of this infernal -boat, Mr. Shad Back possessed a pair of bright blue eyes, which by some -uncommon process had been converted, during the night, into a pair (or -rather one and a half) of dismal black ones; his nose, always flat, was -now scarcely discernible at all--it had been absolutely beaten into his -face; lips as thick and black as those of a Loango negro, and without a -tooth in his head to save him from starvation. The fact is, my friend -Shad had received as severe a mauling as one man could well stagger -under; and although I pitied him truly and sincerely, yet I could not -help feeling a sort of disappointment at knowing he was not drowned or -dead in some way, and it _is_ a great disappointment to any one, after -making extensive preparations to mourn the fate of a man who he hopes -will commit suicide. After he has adjusted his face and his garments to -represent a decent amount of grief, and above all, after he has composed -his epitaph, including therein a scrap of touching poetry, to find that -he is not dead nor drowned after all, I say again, _is_ a -disappointment and a great shame. - -But, supposing “all things are for the best,” I swallowed my chagrin and -a cup of (stewed mud) coffee together, resolving to write no man’s -epitaph until I had the sexton’s certificate, or officiated in person at -the crowner’s or coroner’s inquest. - -We landed in Stockton a little before noon of the same day, and thence -took passage in a lumber wagon for Columbia, in or near which place the -mines were situated. Columbia is in Tuolumne county, near the base of -the Sierra Nevada, and contains about 2,000 inhabitants. Its mines are -said to be the richest in the State. As we had come here for the express -purpose of making a fortune without let or hindrance, and with as little -labor as possible, we went to work at once, digging and toiling like men -determined to become millionaires within a week at the farthest. In a -few days we had collected a large mass of dirt together, and only waited -for rain to afford us an opportunity of testing its value. But the rain -would not come. Every morning, for at least a month, Shad predicted rain -in torrents, and got drunk without delay, in order, as he said, to -celebrate an event of so much consequence to our future fortunes. Sure -enough, the rain did come at last. It continued to fall somewhat briskly -for about an hour, then it ceased for an hour or so. Again it fell for -another hour, and thus during the day we had rain and sunshine -alternating very systematically indeed, and quite encouragingly. - -The amount of water that had fallen barely sufficed to wet the thirsty -earth, and it would therefore require just six such rainy days to give -us water sufficient to commence our washing operations. Mr. Back’s -extensive researches into the science of astronomy enabled him to -predict an astonishing amount of wet weather; at least such, he said, -was _prognoxicated_ by the _starring ferment_, that really the stars -were looking so very wet and uncomfortable, that he could not but pity -their condition, especially jolly old Aaron, with the belt. Shad had -drunk a more than ordinary quantity of liquor that day, in -commemoration, I suppose, of the beginning of the rainy season. - -We were now well into the month of December. The rainy season usually -commences about the middle of November, and continues almost without -intermission until the latter part of February. The year previous it had -rained for three months without cessation; now we had no rain. December -passed away, and January had come, still the drought continued. Men and -animals drooped, the earth had become baked, not a shrub, not a leaf, -no, not even a blade of grass could be seen in any direction. A drier -season had never been known in that region. Shad had been sober for -several days upon compulsion entirely. He could get no more liquor, not -because the fiery draught was scarce, but for want of money to pay for -it. My own funds were out, gone to liquidate our daily expenses, so that -the prospect before us looked gloomy enough. I think, had it been our -good fortune to have water, we should have made a very handsome sum out -of our large heap of dirt. Without water, to separate the precious metal -from the dirt, we could do nothing. About the 20th of January it rained -nearly all the morning. “Hope told a flattering tale.” Alas for us poor -devils, the rain ceased at noon; this same half a day’s rain cost Shad -the only shirt he had for liquor. He said he felt morally certain the -rainy season had set in _now_, and that he would have a regular -jollification upon the strength of it, if it cost him his shirt, and it -_did_ cost him his shirt. - -The season was now so far advanced that we could no longer hope for -continuous rain, if it came at all; so I resolved, though with -reluctance and after much deliberation, to abandon our _pile of gold_ -and make the best of my way back to San Francisco. It was all well -enough that I should make a resolve of this description, but the -principal part of the affair would be to carry it into effect. The -_primum mobile_, the _sinews of war_, the _wherewith_ must first be -found before I could budge an inch. It was next to impossible to expect -aid or counsel from poor Shad. He, good, susceptible soul, had fallen a -willing victim to the artful blandishments of an ancient squaw, not so -much on account of her great personal attractions as in consequence of -her valuable possessions, which consisted of a dilapidated blanket and a -keg of whiskey. I was quite charmed with the appearance of the squaw, -she so strongly resembled a kangaroo; indeed it was quite a treat to see -the pair together, it being problematical which was the most hideous, or -the most beastly. I found it utterly useless to remonstrate with him; in -fact, he never was in a fitting condition to understand me: so I made up -my mind to leave him. Through the kindness of a friend, which was -afterwards reciprocated, I was enabled to pay the few debts I had -contracted, and to leave Columbia with a trifle of money, which, with -economy, enabled me to reach San Francisco in due time. - -Thus terminated my last mining adventure in the gold regions of -California. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - -THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEE. - - -The title of our chapter will bring up to the minds of all who visited -California, during its early days, some startling recollections. The -Vigilance Committee was the institution of that country, striking terror -into all evil doers. Like all energetic associations, it was capable of -being abused and sometimes ran into extremes, but its worst enemies -cannot deny that it was the only thing which could suppress crime at the -time it was in power. - -Great mistakes are made in regard to this organization by most writers -who have spoken of it. They have committed the very common error of -judging of the institutions of one set of people by the standard of -another. They have applied to California the same rule which would guide -them in their judgment of an Atlantic State. In reality, however, there -is no parallel between the two. The latter is inhabited by a population -educated to regard the law as the paramount authority. The lawless are -in the minority among them. Years of good government have taught the -criminal to look upon the public authorities as his bitterest foes, and -the honest man to regard them as his friends and protectors. - -In California, however, every thing was the reverse of this. No sooner -were her doors thrown open and her treasures disclosed, than people from -every quarter of the globe thronged to her shores. Men of industrious -habits and adventurous spirit went thither of course, as they always -hasten to every new field of enterprise. The crowd of newcomers, -however, was swelled by others of a far different character. Plunder was -of course to be had, and the swindlers and desperadoes, who live by -their wits, were quite as eager to visit the new country as were the -honest miners who had come to wrench fortune from the flinty bowels of -the earth by their brawny arms. - -Villains from all parts of the world swarmed upon the new soil. Cunning -sharpers from New England, desperate vagabonds from Texas, bogus men -from the north-west, and reckless plunderers from the prairies hastened -to California like crows to a corn-field. Mexico sent thither her sly -robbers, Chili and Peru furnished their secret assassins. The penal -colonies of Great Britain vomited their refuse upon this unhappy land, -and even savage pirates from the Eastern Archipelago found their way to -El Dorado. The territory numbered among her inhabitants accomplished -thieves, burglars and cut-throats from every civilized and barbarous -country within reach, men who had been familiar with courts and jails, -and all punishments short of death. - -It may readily be understood what a state of society existed there. The -laws of the United States were, by a figure of speech, said to be in -force over the new territory. Really, however, they were as impotent as -they are in a village of Blackfeet among the Rocky Mountains. The -officers of the law were utterly powerless. Rarely did they attempt to -assert their authority, and when they did make the effort, they signally -failed. The only law recognized there was that of the strongest. The -correct aim, the steady hand, the strong arm were the only protectors of -a Californian in those days. He might as well lean upon a wilted blade -of grass as upon the legal authorities. - -This condition of affairs afforded a fine harvest to the amiable -gentlemen who had come hither to practice their professions. Robberies -and murders became every-day occurrences, of no more importance than an -assault and battery on election day. The most daring outrages were every -where committed with impunity. Unoffending men were shot down and -pillaged in broad daylight; shops were broken open; haciendas were -stormed;--in short, the country was in a state of siege, and the -blackguards were in the ascendent. - -At this critical period, some of the settlers fortunately recollected a -similar state of affairs in the country between the Mississippi and the -Alleghanies, and the sharp but effective remedy which was then applied. -They remembered how organized bands of robbers had infested the states -and territories of the Mississippi Valley, how judges and constables and -sheriffs had been connected with these infamous associations, how -justice was perpetually defrauded of her dues, because juries composed -of members of the same villainous fraternity could easily be packed; and -how, finally, the honest portion of the community, exasperated beyond -endurance by these repeated villainies, took the law in their own hands, -and remorselessly hung and shot all the desperadoes who fell into their -power, with the ultimate effect of restoring peace and good order. - -The same evil demanded the same remedy. The Vigilance Committee was -organized. It was composed of the best men in San Francisco, men who -would have been the most zealous supporters of the law, had there been -any law to support; men of firmness and resolution who were determined -to have peace and security at all hazards. It was not exactly a secret -society, but some sort of privacy was necessary to be observed. Were its -agents generally known, not only would they be marked out for the secret -vengeance of the vermin they were hunting down, but their vigilance -would be more easily evaded, and the operations of the committee -crippled. - -The most important question which occurred to the committee, at its very -formation, was the disposition to be made of the criminals arrested by -its agents. They had no prisons at their command, and had no time to -devote to the tedious formalities of law proceedings. Ropes, however, -were at their disposal, and even California had trees enough to answer -their purposes, except San Francisco, where the pulleys upon hoisting -beams which projected from the warehouses afforded a very convenient -substitute. Their code, therefore, necessarily resembled Draco’s. For -graver crimes they hung their culprits, for minor offences they flogged -them, rode them on rails, tarred and feathered them, and ordered them -away from a settlement within a given time under penalty of sharper -punishment. Their threats were generally punctually executed. Their -principle was that of Mr. Carlyle--to get rid of rascality by -exterminating the rascals. - -The results of the proceedings of this committee were beneficial in the -highest degree. Before its establishment, it was dangerous to walk the -streets of San Francisco in broad daylight; after it had been in -operation for a short time, that city became as safe as any upon the -other sea-board. They retained their authority until a State government -had been formed, its officers duly appointed, and its sovereignty -proclaimed; after which they laid it down. Whatever may be thought of -the organization, no one can accuse it of intentional injustice. Hasty -they may occasionally have been, but deliberately wrong, never. The best -tribute that could be paid to their honesty and efficiency was the -general apprehension of the people on the occasion of the charge just -alluded to. They dreaded the establishment of a government of law, and -generally preferred the irresponsible action of the committee. It is -also a well ascertained fact that California has never been so orderly -as it was under their rule. Immediately upon their resignation, the -rogues began to breathe more freely, and crime to increase. - -We have already said that this committee has been harshly judged and -unjustly condemned by persons who were imperfectly or not at all -acquainted with the facts in the case. These very men, however, -recognize the necessity and acknowledge the benefits of the Holy Vehm. -They can see plainly enough that the robber barons “who spared not man -in their anger nor woman in their lust,” who were a curse and a nuisance -to all honest people, needed to be struck suddenly and without remedy by -some invisible hand, which they could neither escape by flight, -intimidate by threats, nor bribe with money. They cannot understand, -however, that the plebeian scoundrels of California required the same -sharp and summary punishments which were needed for the rascally -noblemen of the dreaded Red Land of Westphalia. It is very easy for -people who sit by their comfortable firesides and look out upon well-fed -policemen patrolling the streets, conspicuous by their glittering star, -to descant upon the beauties of law and order. The man, however, who has -just been knocked down and robbed in San Francisco by a vagabond who -cannot be brought to justice, has not so clear a perception of the -necessity of resorting to a tribunal which is powerless to punish, or of -appealing to a constable who is equally unable to protect him from -injury. These things have a relative, not an actual value; they are, or, -perhaps I ought to say, they were worthless in California. A cockney -traveler might as well take a London policeman to Sebastopol to prevent -the Cossacks from taking liberties with his sacred person. - -The main thing every where to be attained is order, that honest men may -do their work in peace and quietness. If law gives them this, well and -good. Law must be supported. If law is powerless, then the rifle, or the -knife, or the rope must take its place. In so unsettled a state of -society, as that which existed in California at the time of which we are -speaking, the first thing is to strike terror into the ruffians. That -must be done, let the cost be what it may. After the power of the -honest man is established on a firm basis, then it is time enough to -organize courts of law. - -The quiet and honest settlers of California were fully convinced of the -necessity of this committee, and zealously supported it. Indeed, the -committee rarely acted alone. Almost always the citizens were called in, -and had as much to say as the members of this self-constituted tribunal -upon the case in hand. They only took the initiative; they saw that the -scoundrels did not escape; the public did the rest. - -As for the thieves, robbers and rascals of every grade, they entertained -a wholesome terror of this energetic organization. When one of them -received his orders to quit a certain place, he did not dare to disobey. -He knew that unless he did what he was commanded, his punishment was -inevitable. The committee was as inexorable as destiny itself. - -I have no time to go into the examination of the arguments advanced -against such an institution as this. A glance at one or two must -suffice. It has been said that the committee was irresponsible, and that -it is highly dangerous to entrust the power of life and death to -irresponsible hands. In truth, however, the committee was not -irresponsible. It sprang from the people, and though not formally -elected by them, was nevertheless tacitly acknowledged. All its power -resulted from the fact that it was a genuine exponent of public opinion, -a faithful executor of the public will. The moment it failed fairly to -represent the people, that moment its days were numbered. The members of -the committee knew perfectly well that the same fate which they decreed -to the culprits who fell into their hands, awaited them, should they -ever become dangerous to the people. - -Again, they have been accused of haste and cruelty in their operations. -We have already said something on this head. Perhaps, however, it may be -well to speak more directly to this charge. The necessity of punishment -must be granted. There is no other mode of preserving order. Now, it -must be remembered that California was then really in a state of -anarchy, though nominally under the government of the United States. -Every body did that which was right in his own eyes, or rather what his -inclination prompted him to attempt. The consequence was, as we have -already said, that murders and robberies were every-day occurrences. -Life and property were wholly unprotected. In this state of affairs the -vigilance committee took the matter up, and determined to regulate -affairs. What were they to do with a criminal once caught? To take bail -for him, and let him run till a certain course of regular formalities -could be gone through with? That would have been an extremely judicious -proceeding. The escaped scoundrel would have committed further -depredations, and, in all probability, the most conspicuous of the -committee would have fallen victims to his vengeance. It was necessary, -therefore, to try him at once, or else let him go scot-free. The trial -over, and conviction obtained, the sentence, whatever it might be, -required to be immediately executed, because they had no place of -safe-keeping for him. If exile was decreed, he was forthwith drummed out -of the settlement; if he was to be hung, the rope was immediately -provided. There was no help for it; unless justice were summary, it was -null. - -As for the charge of cruelty, it must be acknowledged that the code of -the vigilance committee was severe. They hung for many offences which, -in the Eastern States, can only deprive a man of his liberty. This also -was a matter of necessity. Such severity was requisite to strike terror -into the lawless vagabonds who infested the newly settled country. -Besides, it was doing no more than was done in civilized, refined, -enlightened England less than fifty years ago. Indeed, the vigilance -committee were more merciful than the authorities of that realm, who -hung a rogue for stealing a hat. It was only when a robbery was attended -with circumstances of peculiar atrocity that they resorted to this -extreme punishment. - -Allowance must also be made for the state of feeling among the people in -regard to capital punishment. It did not inflict such a shock upon them -as it does on the inhabitants of an old, regularly governed country. -Life was held very cheap there; it was taken upon the slightest -provocation. Every man went armed, and weapons were resorted to at the -commencement of a fray. The dry goods man, who measured out calico -behind his counter, waited on his customers with a pair of revolvers -stuck in his belt. The customers, wild, savage looking men, leaned upon -their rifles or played with their bowie-knives while making their -bargain. The purchase completed, the buyer threw down his leathern bag -of gold dust, the seller weighed out the proper quantity and returned -the rest. Should a dispute arise, few words were interchanged; arms were -immediately appealed to, and the question was speedily settled. It is -but fair, however, to say that, during these early days, the regular -traders had but few difficulties with the miners, arising from attempts -to defraud. Clearly, such a state of society cannot be judged by the -same rule which applies to a settled and orderly community. A scene -which I witnessed at Sacramento will probably give my readers a better -idea of the mode of proceeding adopted by the vigilance committee, than -any lengthened description of mere generalities. - -A man who had recently returned from the mines, and was on his way to -his home on the Atlantic coast, arrived in Sacramento one morning, and -put up at the Orleans hotel. He had been quite successful in his labors, -and brought in a goodly quantity of gold dust, a portion of which only -he had deposited; the rest he carried about his person for current -expenses. Elated with his good fortune, he could not refrain from -boasting of his skill and judgment, and the excellent results he had -obtained. He exhibited sundry little leather bags, and picked out -nuggets remarkable for size or for oddity of form, which he exhibited -freely to all the inmates of the house. He had one irregular mass of -gold, which, to his fancy, resembled a race-horse. Another jagged, -shapeless lump, he conceived to be a perfect likeness of Mr. Polk, whom -he greatly admired, and this he declared his intention of having made -into a breast-pin. He talked largely of the great things he would do -with his money when he reached home, and, in the excess of his -liberality, “treated the crowd” to innumerable cock-tails and smashes. - -Two men, who were unknown to the people of the hotel, seemed -particularly interested in the history of his exploits, and professed to -have acquired a high regard for him personally, during their brief -acquaintance. They swore he was a trump, that such a good fellow -deserved to make money, and professed to rejoice in his success as -greatly as though it had been their own. They too, they said, had just -come in from the mines, where they had made a few ounces, though nothing -like what our friend had secured. They were so exhilarated by his good -fortune that they vowed they would return and try their luck again. They -had come down with the intention of going home, but they did not like to -be beaten by any one, so they would just “knock around” the city a -little, have some fun, and go back to the mines the next day. Our friend -was “such a devilish good fellow,” that they were proud to have made his -acquaintance, and would enjoy their frolic ten-fold if they could only -prevail upon him to accompany them. - -Their proposition was accepted. Success and “red-eye” had rendered him -more than usually confiding, and the three strolled away, amid the -laughter of the crowd, reeling, hiccoughing, and swearing eternal -friendship. They rambled off to a back street, engaged in the same -interesting conversation. Suddenly one of the companions of our hero -disengaged himself from his arm, slipped behind him, and with a billet -gave him a tremendous blow upon the head, which knocked him bleeding -upon the pavement. He was stunned only for a moment, and the blow seemed -to have sobered him. He began to struggle, when his other newly found -friend joined in the assault. The two together belabored him severely -over the head till he lay senseless and motionless upon the pavement. -Thinking they had quieted him for ever, they proceeded to rifle his -pockets, and soon stripped him of every thing valuable he had about his -person. They then made off with their booty. - -Strange as it may sound to my reader, this outrage was perpetrated about -three o’clock on a summer afternoon. Some persons in the neighborhood -witnessed the whole affair, and immediately gave the alarm. The -vigilance committee, ever on the alert, were soon in pursuit, and the -scoundrels were captured a short distance from the outskirts of the -city. The news spread with great rapidity, and soon a large crowd had -collected. When I reached the scene of action, the members of the -committee were escorting the culprits to a little grove of stunted oaks -which stood upon the outskirts of the town. There was an expression of -calm determination on the faces of the committee, of angry excitement on -those of the rest of the crowd. Furious cries of “hang them!” burst from -the mob, but did not seem to excite or ruffle the chief actors in this -terrible drama, who went about their duties with great system and -deliberation. As for the criminals themselves, a more villainous pair of -faces it was never my fortune to look upon. Low brows, heavy features, -and cold steel-gray eyes, gave them the expression with which -Cruikshanks has pictured Sykes in his illustrations of Oliver Twist. -They were Australian convicts, brutal wretches, whose hands were red -with blood. - -A jury was immediately empanneled by order of the committee, one of whom -acted as judge. “Fellow-citizens,” said he, “these men have been accused -of perpetrating an atrocious crime within the limits of this city. We -are now ready to give them a fair trial. Those gentlemen who witnessed -the outrage will now come forward and give in their testimony!” - -The culprits were made to confront the jury, guarded by members of the -Vigilance Committee. Several citizens came forward and stated what they -had seen, and others from the hotel identified the prisoners as the men -who went off with the unlucky miner. They also recognized the bags and -the nuggets which were taken from them as the same which had been -exhibited at the hotel. As for the wounded man, he was too badly hurt to -testify. - -The case was fairly made out against them, the jury gave in their -verdict, and the judge formally inquired what the convicts had to say -why sentence should not be pronounced upon them. They muttered out a few -unintelligible words, when with a clear loud voice, he said: “Prisoners, -you have been found guilty of a murderous assault and robbery. You have -had a fair trial, and the sentence of this court is that you he -forthwith hung by the neck till you are dead! One hour will be granted -for such religious exercises as you may desire. If there is any one -present who is disposed to render these men any religious service, he is -requested to come forward.” - -A man, who represented himself as a Methodist preacher, now advanced to -the miserable men, said a few words to them in a low tone of voice, and -then knelt down to pray beside them. During this part of the ceremony, -the crowd stood silently by, and many took off their hats. - -Presently the preacher rose and mingled with the crowd. A man advanced -to the culprits and carefully pinioned their arms with a strong rope. At -this stage of the proceedings, they seemed to be fully aroused to a -sense of their danger. They looked around and seemed to scrutinize every -face in the whole assembled multitude. Never shall I forget that mute, -appealing gaze. It was useless; not a face in the whole crowd wore an -aspect of mercy; but again arose the angry shout: “Hang them! hang -them!” The judge now called out, “Gentlemen! the hour is up!” whereupon -they were led to a tree and swung off. A few struggles and all was over. -The crowd quietly dispersed; the excitement subsided, and an hour -afterwards no one would have suspected that any thing unusual had -happened. - -Such proceedings as these--the absolute and inevitable certainty of -punishment--produced order throughout the State. Indeed, it was the -Vigilance Committee alone that ever has enforced obedience to law. The -State’s Attorney of San Francisco states that in four years _twelve -hundred murders had been perpetrated, and only one of the criminals was -convicted_. What wonder if some people still sigh for the days of the -Vigilance Committee? - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - -BODEGA. - - -Once more in San Francisco, I made preparations to return to the -Atlantic States as rapidly as my health and dilapidated means would -permit. Before leaving this pseudo Eldorado for ever and aye, I had a -wish to see a celebrated grazing district, famed for its vast herds of -horned cattle and wild horses; and so, having hired at an enormous price -a sorry looking mule, like the knight of La Mancha mounted upon -Rosinante, I sallied forth from San Francisco in search of new -adventures. I took the high road along the bay towards Bodega, a small -town situated upon the Pacific coast, 60 miles north-east from San -Francisco. I had hardly cleared the suburbs of the city, when my mule -began to exhibit qualities very far from respectable; as, for example, -he would stop suddenly, hold down his head, plant his fore feet firmly, -and reflect, I suppose, upon the proper moment to pitch me over his -head. He had a very uncomfortable way too of throwing up his head, and -more than once just grazed my nose; then he was so playful! jerking the -bridle suddenly and casting his head round so as almost to reach my leg -with his teeth. And, moreover, I judged him to be partial to botanical -studies, from the fact of his taking every opportunity of pushing his -way through the scrub bushes that lined the road, as if he thought the -occasion favorable to scrape me off his back. I have never been very -famous for my skill in equitation, nor have I ever been too anxious to -intrust myself to the care and safe-keeping of other legs than my own, -and I must acknowledge that when I discovered the little pleasing -eccentricities already enumerated, I thought it would be most prudent to -return; and would have done so, only that the devilish brute would not -consent to take the back track; by which I mean that, when I attempted -to turn his head homeward, he commenced such a series of circumgyratory -evolutions that I remained long in doubt as to which of my limbs would -remain unbroken when I _did_ come to the ground, a catastrophe by no -means far distant if he continued to spin around five minutes longer. I -clung to the pummel of the Spanish saddle, however, with the gripe of a -maniac, shouting wo! with an unction and vigor that I am sure -contributed as much as any thing else towards stopping the incarnate -devil in his mad career. Any person, to have seen my involuntary -performances on this trying occasion, would most assuredly have -pronounced me the best circus rider in the known world. I am favorably -known at home as an even tempered, nay, as a good tempered person; but I -verily believe I lost my temper here on this spot, not that I remember -to have ever been profane, but I am sure I consigned the wretch to the -safe-keeping of a nameless personage, with a particular request -regarding the future disposition of his eyes and limbs. As I could do -nothing better, I let him have his own way, and for the next hour or so -we got along very well together, and I really began to think well of his -muleship; when suddenly, and as if by magic, I found myself upon my back -in the road, and the precious villain prancing and curveting within -fifty feet of where I lay, as if in the very act of rejoicing that he -had thrown me there. I had received a slight bruise upon one of my -shoulders by the fall, a matter not deserving much attention, and was -considering the best method of catching the atrocious robber, as he very -deliberately walked up to me, and adjusted his position so that I could -mount him again with ease, which I did without delay. Shortly after, we -reached a Chinese encampment--all men, or at least I supposed so. They -looked exactly alike in face and in dress. Two or three were assembled -around a fire, the rest were gambling; those by the fire were engaged in -cooking rats in an expeditious manner. I should think there might have -been about a bushel of these animals altogether, and they were laid -with their skins on, from time to time, upon a bed of hot embers to -broil; it was a very primitive way of replenishing the larder! However, -I did not dine with the celestials; I had an indistinct idea at the -moment that the moon’s relatives were exceedingly respectable, only -something the filthiest. Without much further trouble or delay we -arrived, towards midnight, at Bodega. My mule behaved like a trump -during the latter part of the journey, but only after frolicking for -about three quarters of an hour up and down a small stream upon our -road, which his excellency insisted upon surveying, even from its source -to its mouth. - -Bodega contains not more than four hundred inhabitants, including -“Digger” Indians, “niggers” and dogs, the last by far the most useful -and most decent of the concern. The people of the town told me that the -place was first settled by the Russians, but no vestiges remain of the -original settlers to denote who or what they were. A very worthy man is -the sole proprietor of the town now--he is an American; some years since -resided in Valparaiso, where he married several bags of doubloons, a -large lot of cattle, some fine horses, and a Chilian lady; removed to -California and became the possessor of the town of Bodega, and a very -large portion of the surrounding country. For my part, I could see -nothing very seductive in Bodega, nothing that could keep me there a -week. The country is almost destitute of timber, with here and there a -woody knoll. The surface of the land is rolling, soil good, and well -adapted for farming purposes. In fact, it is said to be the best grazing -section in the State of California. Dense fogs prevail throughout the -summer months; from these the earth receives a sufficient quantity of -moisture to answer all the purposes of rain. An abundant crop of grass -is produced, upon which vast herds of cattle and droves of horses are -raised. The horned cattle are slaughtered in immense numbers, merely for -their horns, hides and tallow. - -Twelve miles south-east of Bodega is the little village of Petaluma, -situated upon the margin of an extensive swamp or morass, through which -a small stream winds its way to the bay of San Francisco. This morass is -entirely overflowed during the winter. In the summer it becomes -perfectly dry, and cracks open in every imaginable direction to the -depth of twelve or fifteen feet, the crevices varying from one to eight -inches in width. At an early period the Indians captured entire herds of -horned cattle in the summer by driving them into this morass. If an -animal attempts to cross this fissured spot he must assuredly break his -legs. It is no uncommon occurrence daily to find three or four wild -horses, and as many more horned cattle, vainly struggling to extricate -their fractured limbs from the clefts and crevices in this death-dealing -Golgotha. In this situation they are quickly dispatched by the Indians -and others living in the vicinity, stripped of their hides, and the -carcasses left for the birds of prey. Owing to certain preservative -properties in the atmosphere, animal matter does not undergo -decomposition in this region with the same degree of rapidity that it -does in other sections of the Atlantic States in the same parallels of -latitude, and it is not unusual to see the carcasses of slain animals -upon this very morass, a month or more after they have fallen, in a good -state of preservation, and without emitting, in any great degree, an -offensive odor. - -Upon my return to Bodega, I witnessed the punishment of an Indian boy -for theft. This was the case: The boy had stolen a trifling sum from the -house of an American, and being shortly after detected with the money in -his possession, he was sentenced to expiate his offence in a very novel -manner; and here I might with great propriety use the language of Lord -Byron, the scene reminded me so strongly of the main incidents of his -Mazeppa. A wild horse that had been caught with the lasso only the day -before, was brought out, and the boy’s person in an upright position -securely strapped to his back. The boy thus bound, the horse was then -freed from restraint by the men that held him, and with a cut from a -whip, he bounded away with the speed and swiftness of an arrow shot from -a bow. The race, however, was of short duration. He had scarcely -accomplished the third of a mile, when he suddenly threw himself, and -with frantic efforts endeavored to roll over and over, in order to rid -himself of his burden. In these struggles, one of the boy’s legs was -literally crushed into a bloody mass. The violent exertions of the -animal had so far exhausted his strength, that he was unable to rise. In -this condition, we had time to come up and liberate the boy from his -bonds, but not until the poor creature had ceased to breathe. He was -quite dead, and another murder was to be added to the long list of -California crimes. Horror-sticken and distressed at the scene of -ruthless barbarity I had just witnessed, I made my way out of the -village of Bodega, wondering if the good God would permit such an -unparalleled atrocity to pass unpunished. - -In returning, I took the road through the valleys of Sonoma and Napa to -Benicia: feeling fatigued and somewhat indisposed upon reaching the city -of Benicia, I determined to rest there a day or two. Benicia contains -about 1500 inhabitants, is 40 miles north-east from San Francisco, -situated upon a branch of the Sacramento river. The city is regularly -laid out on a gentle slope, rising from the water’s edge to the hills -in the rear. Benicia is a port of entry, contains an arsenal, a -navy-yard, and extensive docks for repairing and refitting steamers. -Ships of the largest class can come up to the wharves. It has been -proposed to establish the seat of government of the State here. It must -be by no means understood that I had traveled thus far upon my return -without trouble from the antics and extravagances of my mule, being -somewhat upon my guard, I more than once foiled him in his design of -getting me off his back. I have seen vicious animals in my time, but -never saw any thing to equal the cunning and malice of this one. It -seemed as if he had been taught every thing that was bad, and being -naturally vicious, had become by long practice more than a match for -man. Desirous of examining more closely a singularly formed elevation -some fifteen miles from Benicia, known as Monte Diabolo, I set out the -third morning after my sojourn in Benicia to visit this famous mountain. -Mounted upon my rascally mule, I had unfortunately suffered myself to be -persuaded to wear a pair of Spanish spurs, having been assured that the -fractious conduct of the mule heretofore was entirely owing to my not -providing myself with these persuaders at the commencement of my -journey. I had ridden barely the half of a mile, when the accursed -animal was seized with a fiend-like desire to break my neck and his own -too. With this commendable purpose in view, he began by taking short -leaps forward, backward and sideways, varied every now and then by an -effort to throw me over his head, by casting his hind legs high into the -air, or in endeavoring to force me off by standing almost upright, and -pawing the air with his fore feet. I maintained my seat with difficulty -during these fiendish gambols, and plied him with the spurs. This -settled the matter at once, for no sooner did I plunge the sharp rowels -into his infernal sides, than he stood for a moment, as if to gather -strength for a more mighty effort; then, dropping his head, he suddenly -threw out his hind feet with such violence as to eject me from his back -with an impetus that I am astonished did not crush every bone in my -body, and kill me outright. As it was, my left leg only was broken. The -mule, demon as he was, seemed to exult in his misdeeds, and to be well -content with the (to him) triumphant termination of the contest; at -least I judged so, from his sounding the trumpet of victory long and -loud; he brayed incessantly for an hour. My leg was broken just above -the ankle, and whenever I moved gave me exquisite pain. What to do I did -not know; I could not move. I was somewhat comforted, however, by -reflecting that I should not lie in this helpless condition long. I was -on the highway, and some traveler must pass soon. I shouted with all -the voice I had left; pain and agony had weakened me so much, that I -feared death would ensue before my situation could be known. At length I -attempted to drag myself upon my hands and knees towards Benicia, then -less than a mile distant. In the effort, the agony I endured caused me -to faint. I know not how long I lay in this death-like condition. When I -again returned to consciousness, I found myself in bed, with my broken -limb confined between splints, after having been properly set by a -surgeon. Many weary days and nights were passed upon a bed of sickness. -I received every attention from the kind people into whose hands I had -fallen. These good Samaritans had found me insensible by the wayside, my -mule standing within ten feet of me, very gravely contemplating his -handiwork, afterwards suffering himself to be led back to Benicia, -without making the slightest demonstration of discontent. As soon as my -new friends discovered the cause of my accident, it was proposed to -shoot the mule forthwith. To this summary disposition of the malignant -brute I objected, not from any desire to save his worthless carcass, but -from a wish to return him to his more worthless owner in San Francisco, -whom I had some hope the animal would cripple for life upon some future -day. I therefore requested my friends to have him returned to his owner -by the first opportunity that offered. - -My most constant attendant was an old negro named Ben. A better nurse I -could not have had than this same old fellow. As he was quite an -original, I will describe him. Ben was about four feet six inches in -height, very thin and very black; his grandfather must have been a -chimpanzee--I feel quite sure of that, because his features were -precisely those of an ancient baboon; his age might be about fifty or -fifty-five, and at an earlier day he may have had a nose, I doubt it, -though; at any rate he had none when I saw him. No! not a bit. It had -disappeared altogether. The wool grew within an inch of his eye-brows, -and he had but one eye. Ordinarily and for economy’s sake, Ben was very -simply attired in canvas pantaloons and the remnant of a red woolen -shirt--disdaining hat and shoes, except upon great occasions and State -celebrations; then, indeed, Ben shone conspicuous in all the glory of an -immensely high bell-crowned white hat, with a narrow rim and a broad -green ribbon to match, a tall, stiff shirt collar that reached his ears, -a military stock, tightly buckled around his neck, which effectually -prevented the wearer from looking downward, a whitish looking something -that had been worn for at least seven years as an overcoat by a tall, -stout man, now served Ben in the capacity of a dress coat; to be sure -he had “curtailed its fair proportions” by cutting off one and a half -feet of the skirts, six inches of the sleeves and a good large piece of -the collar. It was a nice garment. A pair of breeches so tight that he -slept in them upon occasions when he had used much exercise, for the -simple reason that he could not get them off without greatly endangering -their respectable appearance; boots large and somewhat dilapidated, of -course the legs of the tights could not be drawn over the boots, -therefore they were tucked inside. But the crowning glory of the entire -outer man was a broad, shining, black leather belt, drawn so tightly -around his waist, that he breathed at times short and sharp. - -To Ben’s many other great talents must be added his very great -proficiency in music. He performed very spiritedly indeed upon the bass -drum, and when necessary, could do the jingling upon the triangle. But -his forte was the fife, and it was a pleasing sight to see him upon a -gala day, rigged as described, lugging a huge drum buckled to his breast -bone, thrashing away with both hands as if his life depended upon the -amount of confusion he created. Suddenly he would cease, and drawing the -fife from the depths of his breeches pocket, would favor the procession -or company with an air from “Norma,” or from somewhere else. Heroic Ben! -can I ever forget the day when, attired in all his bravery, tall hat, -big coat, old boots, bright belt, long drum, short fife and all, he -hobbled past the house wherein I lay, followed by all the boys, girls -and dogs in the place? It was some saint’s day, and the Mexicans had -hired Ben as chief musician to aid with such music as he had on hand in -doing proper honor to his saintship; and he did it, too, much to the -admiration of every one within hearing. No! I shall never forget that -day; I think the sight hastened the recovery of my health and strength. - -At the end of five weeks, the doctor told me I could travel without -danger to my leg, provided I was careful; accordingly I took passage on -board of the steamer New World for San Francisco, and, with Ben as my -body-guard, reached that city late in the evening of the same day -without any further accident. I immediately put myself under the care of -an able physician, and in a very short time experienced no inconvenience -from my now perfect leg. As to Ben, he would not leave me, and in fact -he made himself so necessary to my comfort that I was quite loth to part -with him. He was a good servant, a good nurse, and honest as far as -circumstances would permit; but he would get liquor to drink some how; -no matter in what shape it came, Ben must have liquor; buy, beg, borrow -or steal, have it he would. I have known him to drink the doctor’s -prescriptions, in consequence of their having a small quantity of brandy -in them; but for this failing I think I should have brought him back -with me to the Atlantic States; as it was, I parted from him only upon -the day that I sailed for home. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - -THE DIGGER INDIANS AND NEGROES. - - -Of all the aborigines that are known to travelers within the limits of -the western continent, the Digger Indians are certainly the most filthy -and abominable. A worse set of vagabonds cannot be found bearing the -human form. They come into the world and go from it to as little purpose -as other carnivorous animals. Their chief characteristics are indolence -and gluttony. Partially wrapped in filthy rags, with their persons -unwashed, hair uncombed and swarming with vermin, they may be seen -loitering about the kitchens and slaughter-houses awaiting with eager -gaze to seize upon and devour like hungry wolves such offal or garbage -as may be thrown to them from time to time. Grasshoppers, snails and -wasps are favorite delicacies with them, and they have a peculiar relish -for a certain little animal, which the Bible tells us greatly afflicted -the Egyptians in the days of Pharaoh. The male Digger never hunts--he is -too lazy for this; he usually depends upon the exertions of his squaw to -provide something or other to satisfy the cravings of hunger. - -The term Digger has been applied to these Indians in consequence of -their method of procuring their food. The grasshopper or cricket of -California is one of their favorite messes. They capture these insects -by first digging a pit in the ground, and then forming a wide circle -round it which is gradually narrowed. In this manner they drive the -insects to the pit and there capture them. After having secured their -prey, the next thing is to prepare it for food. This is accomplished -either by baking the grasshoppers in the fire or drying them in the sun, -after which the Diggers pulverize them. The epicures among them crush -service-berries into a jam and thoroughly incorporate the pulverized -insects with the pulpy mass to which they have reduced the fruit. Others -mix their cricket meal with parched sunflower seed, but this is an -advance in civilization and in the luxuries of the table, which is made -by very few of them. They obtain the young wasps by burning the grass, -which exposes the nests and enables them to grub in the earth for this -delicacy. - -Acorns are also a favorite article of diet with these wretched -creatures. In California, this fruit is larger and more palatable than -with us, and it has the merit of being a cleaner kind of food than that -which usually satisfies the Digger’s hunger. Rude as these people are, -they have sense enough to observe that all years are not equally -productive in these nuts, and foresight sufficient to lay in a good -stock during the plentiful years. They pound them up, mix them with wild -fruit, and make their meal into a sort of bread. They are said to resort -to a stratagem to obtain the acorns in greater abundance. There is a -bird in California, called, from his habits, the carpenteir or -carpenter. He busies himself in making holes in the redwood trees and -filling them with acorns. When a Digger finds a tree stocked in this -manner, he kindles a fire at its base, (so the story goes,) and keeps it -up till the tree falls, when he helps himself to the acorns. - -Grass-seed constitutes another portion of their diet, and this is -gathered by the women, who use for the purpose, two baskets, one shaped -like a shield, the other deep and provided with a handle. With the -shield the top of the grass is brushed and the seed shaken down into the -deep basket. This also is made into bread. - -It is commonly supposed that these Indians belong to a single tribe. -This, however, I think is doubtful. They are scattered over a wide -extent of country, being found far to the north, among the Utahs. Those -upon the frontier usually call themselves Shoshonees or Snakes, while -some claim to be Utahs. Their skin is nearly as dark as that of the -negro. Indeed they greatly resemble the African in color and general -appearance. They are distinguished from him chiefly by their aquiline -noses, their long hair and their well-shaped feet. The southern Diggers -have a lighter complexion, being not so dark as a mulatto. - -It is reported on good authority that Captain Sutter, the first settler -on the Sacramento, at whose fort (the present site of Sacramento) gold -was first discovered, employed these people to build his fort for him. -He paid them in tin coin of his own invention, upon which was stamped -the number of days the holder had worked. This was taken at his “store” -for articles of merchandise, such as dry goods, &c. He fed his field -Indians upon the offal of slaughtered animals and the bran sifted from -ground wheat. The latter was boiled in large iron kettles; and then -placed in wooden troughs from which they scooped it out with their -hands. They are said to have eaten it, poor as it was, with great -relish, and it was no doubt more palatable and wholesome than their -customary diet. - -These Indians are inveterate gamblers, and when they have been so -fortunate as to obtain clothing, they are almost sure to gamble it away -before they stop. Their game is carried on as follows. A number sit -cross-legged on the ground in a circle, and they are then divided into -two parties, each of which has two head players. A ball is passed -rapidly from hand to hand along the whole of one party, while the other -attempts to guess in what hand it is. If successful, it counts one for -the guessing party towards the game. If unsuccessful, it counts one in -favor of the opposite party. The count is kept with sticks. All the -while this is going on, they grunt in chorus, swinging their bodies to -keep time with their grunts. The articles staked are placed in the -centre of the ring. When they once get excited in play, they never stop -so long as they have any thing to stake. After getting through with -their money, their trinkets and their provisions, they stake their -clothes and keep on gambling till they reduce themselves to the costume -of Adam. - -The fate of these poor creatures is involved in no uncertainty. They -must melt away before the white man like snow before a spring sun. They -are too indolent to work, too cowardly to fight. When pinched by the -severity of hunger, and unable to procure their customary filthy diet, -they are driven to the settlements, where they steal if they can, and do -a little labor if they must. No sooner, however, have they procured the -means of satisfying their immediate wants, than they abandon the -employment offered them and relapse into their customary indolent -habits. Of course, it can only be while labor is in such great demand as -it now is, that they can secure even this temporary employment. When -hands become abundant in that country, the laboring white man, the -Chinese or the negro will monopolize all the work. The Indian then will -be confined to thieving for a livelihood, and that is something which -the Californians will not permit. Some of these miserable people have -been cruelly butchered by the whites for indulging their propensity to -make free with other people’s property. They cannot fight for their -plunder, and consequently they must suffer as patiently as they can -whatever penalty is inflicted. If the fierce warlike tribes of the north -could not oppose the march of civilization, how easily will these poor -weak children of the south be crushed under its advancing wheels! - -In Marysville, passing by one of the slaughter-houses, I saw a -collection of about twenty of these wretches waiting for the offal. They -were in the habit of presenting themselves regularly every morning at -the same place and at the same hour to gather the refuse of the -slaughtering establishment. The proprietors rather encouraged these -visiters than otherwise, for the same reason that the turkey-buzzard’s -visits are so acceptable to the denizens of most of our southern -cities--they serve the purpose of scavengers so admirably. On this -particular occasion, however, one of the proprietors seemed not so well -satisfied, from the fact of his having detected one or two of these -“Diggers” in the very act of stealing some choice pieces of beef. A -stalwart Tennesseean and his son were the proprietors. The father was a -very stout man, and more than a match for fifty of these poor miserable -devils; fond of whiskey, an inveterate swearer, and withal, when -excited, as was then the case, dangerous. As soon as the theft was -discovered the eldest Tennesseean seized a meat-axe, and with a -tremendous oath threatened to immolate the entire tribe, or, to use his -own quaint but profane language, to “populate hell three deep with the -damned thieving Digger Indians in less than no time.” This was said to -his son, a good natured young man who was using his best endeavors to -prevent his father from putting his terrible threat into execution. -Happily for the Indians, they had sufficient time to get out of reach of -the enraged man, and make good their escape with the stolen meat. The -butcher’s scheme for populating the infernal regions was to my mind -quite original, to say the least of it, and notwithstanding the impiety -of the thing, I could not refrain from laughing. It afterwards became a -matter of grave consideration how he would accomplish an undertaking of -this description, without first having recourse to some actual -measurement, the better to determine the amount of feet and inches -required for each separate body. I think he must have been something of -a surveyor, and had already measured the area contained within the -dominions of the evil one; how else could he name the precise depth of -“Diggers” he intended to furnish? Our worthy butcher, it must be -conceded, understood geometry, as “three deep” distinctly implies -length, breadth and thickness. The only true difficulty in the whole -thing was the specified period of its performance. I understand what is -meant by “no time” very well, but cannot say I am so confident as to the -meaning and intent of the phrase “in less than no time.” I dare say -though some very short period of time is intended, and if time and -opportunity serves, upon some future day I will make the inquiry of the -Tennesseean or his son (I should prefer the latter) what it really -means. - -There are comparatively few negroes in this new State. Most of those who -are found here have emigrated from the northern and eastern States in -the capacity of cooks and stewards of vessels. They are in the same -situation as their brethren in New York and Massachusetts, slaves to no -single individual but to the entire community. Like free negroes every -where else, they inhabit the worst parts of the towns in California, and -live commonly in characteristic filth and degradation. - -There are a few blacks from the South, and these have been brought out -here as slaves. It is true that on their arrival here they have the -power of claiming their freedom; but such is their attachment to their -masters that this is rarely done. Instances have occurred in which they -have been enticed away by meddling abolitionists, but, disgusted with a -freedom which was of no value to them, they have been eager to return -again to their masters. Several cases of this kind have come under my -own observation. - -I was personally acquainted with a New Orleans sea-captain and -ship-owner, who had a very likely negro man named Joe. This slave had -acted as his special servant for many years, and had made two or three -voyages with him between Shanghai and San Francisco. His conduct was -entirely unobjectionable, and his duties were always promptly and -efficiently discharged. Indeed, the captain informed me that, though he -had reared Joe, he never had occasion to whip him for any offence. -Others had observed the admirable traits of the negro, and several -persons had attempted to buy him, offering extraordinary prices; but his -master, having the highest appreciation of his qualities and a strong -personal attachment for him, positively refused to part with him on any -terms. At last, however, Joe deserted the vessel. An abolitionist had -persuaded him to leave his master; and a short while thereafter he -married a Mexican woman--a sort of half-breed--and went off to the -mines, near Campo Seco. But he found his freedom unprofitable and -troublesome. While in his legitimate station he had always had an easy -time, plenty of food and an abundance of clothing. He had also -accumulated two or three hundred dollars, which had been given him by -his master, and others, for extra services. Not long after his marriage -with the Mexican woman, his money disappeared. He became penniless, -ragged, dejected, and, as a last resort, determined to return to San -Francisco, beg his master’s pardon, and, if possible, reinstate himself -in the favor of one who had always been his friend. He did return, -presented himself as a suppliant before his master, told him that he had -been persuaded to leave, that he was sorry for having done so, and now -wished to enter his service again, promising unwavering faithfulness in -the future. The master regarded him with a steady gaze until he had -finished his story, and then, in a distinct and dispassionate tone, said -to him: “You had no cause for leaving me; I had always treated you well. -Now you may go; I don’t want you any longer.” At the conclusion of these -words, the negro dropped in despair at his master’s feet, and wept like -a child. Moved by the sincerity of the negro’s repentance, and having -duly considered the extenuating circumstances of the case, the master -overlooked his estrangement, set him to work and never had the least -difficulty with him afterwards. Of his Dulcina, whom it seems he had -married in a Laguna dance-house, I know nothing, except the information -I gained from Joe himself, that she left him as soon as his money was -gone. - -One more instance, and I have done with the negroes. A gentleman and -three of his slaves, from the western part of North Carolina, had been -mining about two years, near Quartzburg, in Mariposa county. Their -efforts having been crowned with success, the master concluded to return -home, and speaking to his slaves of his intention, he told them that -they were at liberty to remain in California, where their freedom would -not be disturbed, and where they would be entitled to the entire -proceeds of their labor. To this they replied that the abolitionists had -told them that long before, and after detailing several attempts to -decoy them from their owner, and signifying their unwillingness to -remain in California, they concluded by requesting their master to take -them with him. He consented, paid their passage, and they all returned -home in the same vessel. - -The applicability of slave labor to the soil of Southern California is -now becoming a theme of discussion in that region, and it is probable -that the experiment will one day be tried. Indeed, the propriety of -dividing the State into Northern and Southern California has already -occupied the attention of the legislature; and while it is generally -admitted that the people are about equally divided upon the measure, it -is universally conceded that, in case of its adoption, the southern -portion will establish the laws and institutions of Virginia and -Louisiana. - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - -ARE YOU GOING TO CALIFORNIA? - - -In the preceding chapters it has been my purpose to impart such -information as would lead my reader to a correct knowledge of the -present condition of things in California, and to aid him in deciding -whether he will emigrate to that country, or content himself in the -Atlantic States. I have endeavored (in a very brief and feeble manner, -it is true) to purge the films from his eyes, that he might see the -country in its true light. I have told him of the distorted and -exaggerated stories which have been circulated concerning it; of its -barren soil, and unfavorable seasons; of the seeming incompleteness of -nature, and the paucity of resources of employment therein; of its -scanty productions, and dependence upon importations for all kinds of -provisions and merchandise; of the expensiveness of living, and the -extraordinary obstacles which lie in the way of prosecuting business -with success; of the unprecedented number of mishaps and accidents, and -the losses and perils to be apprehended from fire and water; of the lack -of scenery, and the disagreeable consequences of the weather; of the -inefficiency of the laws, and the anarchical state of society; of the -breaches of faith between man and wife--of the almost utter disregard of -the marriage relation, and the unexampled debauchery and lewdness of the -community; of the contrariety of opinions which prevail, and the -continual disputes and disturbances which arise in consequence of the -heterogeneousness of the population; of the servile employments to which -learned and professional men have to resort for the means of -subsistence, and the thousands of penniless vagabonds who wander about -in misery and dejection; of the dissipated and desperate habits of the -people, and the astounding number of suicides and murders; of the -incessant brawls and tumults, and the popularity of dueling; of the -arbitrary doings of mobs, and the supremacy of lynch-law; of the general -practice of carrying deadly weapons, and the contempt that is shown for -human life; of the great difficulty of securing reliable titles to -landed property, and the fatal rencounters with the squatters; of the -bacchanalian riots by day, and the saturnalian revels at night; of the -perfidy and delinquency of public functionaries, and the impossibility -of electing an honest man to office; of the sophistication of -provisions, and the filthy fare in hotels and restaurants; of the -untrustworthy character of business men, and the frauds and stratagems -practiced in almost every transaction; of the contemning of religious -sentiments, and the desecration of the Sabbath; of the incendiaries in -the cities, and the banditti in the mountains; of the alarming depravity -of the adolescent generation--of the abominable dissoluteness of many of -the women--the infamous vices of the men, and the flagitious crimes -against nature. I have spoken freely of all these things; and now what -else shall I say? Is it necessary that I should defile still more paper -with these detestable truths? Can any one be still in a state of -indecision about going to California? I am aware that the public mind -has been somewhat undecided upon this subject, and I have essayed to -give it the proper turn, or restore it to its accustomed equilibrium. I -have spread before my reader a combination of facts, and have related -events which occurred under my own observation. There are scores of -other topics which might be brought in to give strength to my general -argument; but I dislike to tax the patience of the reader with such a -prolonged catalogue of unwholesome realities. - -It was my intention to dwell somewhat at length upon a variety of -subjects of interest, but the space which I assigned to myself is -already nearly filled up, so that I find I shall be compelled to abandon -this design and bring these desultory remarks to a close. It would, -however, be a neglect for which I would not readily excuse myself, were -I to pass over the subject of the Pacific Railroad without note or -comment. It is agitating the public mind too deeply, and it is too -intimately connected not only with the prosperity of our Pacific coast, -but also with that of the whole nation, to be lightly regarded; and as -some point in California must be its terminus, if common sense is to -guide us in selecting its course, a work on that country must -necessarily take it into account. - -The necessity of this important national highway is too strongly -impressed upon the minds of the thinking people of this nation, to be -easily lost sight of. Some erroneous opinions, however, are entertained -in regard to the objects of the road by many who warmly advocate it. It -is supposed by a few that California is to contribute some wonderful -benefits to it, and some few even go so far as to suppose that she can -support it. This is very absurd, as the previous chapters have, we hope, -clearly explained. - -California certainly will contribute something to the support of this -great enterprise, but cannot, by any means, constitute the chief -inducement to its construction. Her gold will of course come more -rapidly, readily and safely across the continent than around Cape Horn. -In this respect, the saving to the consignees on the Atlantic coast will -be very great, and will be represented by three items: saving of time, -saving in the interest of money, and saving in consequence of the -diminution of the risks of transportation. A glance at our table of -casualties by sea, in a former chapter, will show how great the last -named saving promises to be. That on the interest of money will also be -great. It requires about three weeks to send from California by the -shortest existing route to New Orleans, while, by the railroad, that -city will be but a few days’ distant from San Francisco or San Diego. -Allowing a week to be occupied in the trip, the saving in this item will -amount to a half a month, and as a million is often brought in a single -cargo, this is no trifle. At six per cent. per annum, it would amount to -twenty-five hundred dollars on each shipment. The item of time will be -sufficiently appreciated by the mercantile reader without comment from -us. - -These, however, are not the only benefits which the road may expect to -derive directly from California. Much of the British commerce, which now -finds its way to that distant region by the long routes, will go thither -by the more direct and expeditious way of the new road. A way commerce -will also inevitably spring up and there will be a cordon of settlements -and towns stretching across a wilderness which years of ordinary -immigration would be required to fill up. Branch roads would also soon -start from the main trunk to various important regions along the route. -The Santa Fe trade and the commerce of the prairies generally would soon -seek this as its natural channel. The emigration to California would -also largely benefit the road. This is likely to be large for some time -to come, and the return tide would also contribute to increase the -pecuniary revenue of this great national enterprise. - -To California it would be of the greatest service, and the enlargement -of the resources of that State would of course increase those of the -improvement which causes the beneficial change. The country would then -be settled from the east as well as from the west, and the gold of the -Sierra Nevada would speedily be brought into market. - -These advantages, considerable as they are, really form but a very small -portion of the inducements to the construction of this important work. -The great and important revenues of the road will come from far beyond -the limits of the State. The enormous commerce of Eastern Asia and its -Archipelago, which has enriched every nation that ever secured it, will -then flow over our country leaving its golden sands behind it. China -will send its teas, Amboyna its spices, Java its tin, Japan its copper, -through our dominions. No commercial manœuvring, no diplomatic juggles -can divert this mighty trade from its natural course. There is a -destiny in commerce, as well as in other things, and fate seems -determined to pour the riches of the world into our lap. If, in former -times, the slow caravans which conveyed the treasures of the east to -western ports, left wealth behind them, wherever their footprints were -seen, though vexed by Tartar and by Arab plunderers, how much more -benefit is likely to be derived from a rapid and safe transit through a -civilized nation, ready, eager and able to add their quota to the stream -of wealth? - -We must not forget, also, that this eastern commerce is greater and more -important than it ever was. Our efforts have unsealed Japan, and before -long we shall be reaping the fruits of our enterprise in that quarter. -Australia, too, is now ready to add her gold to a commerce already -immensely valuable. China must open her doors still wider, for the world -will knock loudly at them. Nor is this all. The whole trade of the -western coast of South America must change its course. A Pacific capital -is destined to absorb it. The whaling fleets of the Pacific will not -have the stormy passage around Cape Horn to dread, but another New -Bedford will look greasily upon the western ocean. The fur trade also -will change its course. Oregon will furnish it with a port of departure, -California with a permit of entry. Siberia itself may divide its trade -between San Francisco and St. Petersburg. We seem to be on the point of -taking the position which China has always claimed, and of becoming the -true centre of the world, at least so far as commerce is concerned. - -I believe it is now generally admitted that the Southern route is the -most practicable--that it is the most level, the most fertile, the best -watered, the best timbered, and that the climate through which it runs -is the only one that is favorable at all seasons of the year. I have -conversed with several gentlemen who passed over the various routes on -their way to California, and they informed me that the mountainous parts -of the northern routes are usually blocked up during the winter with -immense drifts of snow, which lie upon the ground to the depth of from -forty to fifty feet--sometimes much deeper. Those who traveled over the -northern routes also complained of the scarcity of wood, water and -provisions, and represented the Indians as being very hostile and -treacherous; while, in most cases, those who traveled over the southern -route experienced no hindrance, difficulty or impediment whatever, -having had pleasure, peace and plenty all the way. But besides the -advantages of climate, surface, soil, wood and water, there are other -considerations which weigh in favor of the southern route. The distance -is much shorter, and the population is more friendly, civilized and -thrifty. It will bring us on more intimate terms with the Mexicans, and -they will be induced to purchase larger quantities of our manufactured -and imported merchandise. - -Every southern man should feel a lively interest in this gigantic -scheme, and enlist all his energies in aid of its completion. It affords -one of the finest opportunities that the South has ever enjoyed for -establishing her commercial independence, for counterbalancing the -increasing commercial power of the North. In connection with this -subject, I may here present an extract from a letter which I had the -honor to receive, not long since, from one of the most sagacious and -far-sighted patriots of the South. Speaking of the great Atlantic and -Pacific Railway, among other things, he says: “North Carolina should not -be an indifferent spectator of this noble enterprise. The port of -Beaufort, unrivaled for health, possesses a depth of water sufficient -for all convenient purposes; while the placid bosom of its -well-protected harbor, justly entitles it to be styled the Pacific port -of the Atlantic coast. Pursue its degree of latitude westward across the -continent and the Pacific ocean, and you will find that degree passing -near Memphis, Little Rock, Fulton, El Paso, and San Diego to Shanghai, -the last two being the nearest ports of the two continents, in so low a -latitude. Railways are chartered from Beaufort westward, and are -constructed, or in progress of construction, that will reach perhaps one -third or half way across the continent. May we not then hope, ere long, -to see them uniting the two oceans?” - -Experienced navigators have said that, in consequence of the favorable -course of the tradewinds, the voyage can be accomplished between San -Diego and Shanghai in about eight days’ less time than it can be between -San Francisco and Shanghai; and this is certainly a very strong argument -in favor of running the road directly to San Diego--leaving San -Francisco to the right. - -Since the above was written, the following abstract of the “Report of -the Secretary of War on the several Pacific Railroad Explorations” has -been published; and as it more than substantiates the correctness of my -remarks, and imbodies a great deal of valuable information concerning -the various routes, I hope the reader will peruse it with due care and -attention. I here transcribe it, with brief comments, from the columns -of the _Herald_: - - -PACIFIC RAILROAD EXPLORATIONS. - -The “Report of the Secretary of War on the several Pacific Railroad -Explorations” is before us. It is an interesting and instructive -document, embracing a careful review of the capabilities and drawbacks -of the following routes, from the actual surveys: - -FIRST--The extreme northern route, (Major Stevens’,) between the 47th -and 49th parallels of latitude, starting from St. Paul in Minnesota -territory, and striking the Pacific at Puget’s Sound, or the mouth of -the Columbia, in Oregon. This will require a road, allowing for ascent -and descent, of 2,207 miles. Estimated cost, $130,871,000. The -impediments in this route are the mountains to be tunneled, the numerous -rivers to be bridged, the scarcity of timber, the coldness of the -climate, and its proximity to the British possessions. - -SECOND--Route of the forty-first parallel, (Mormon route,) commencing on -the navigable waters of the Missouri, or on the Platte river, and -striking thence over the Plains to the South Pass, thence to the Great -Salt Lake, thence across the Great Basin to the Sierra Nevada chain, -thence over that chain, and down to the Sacramento river, and down the -same to Benicia, just above San Francisco, on the same harbor. Estimated -distance from Council Bluffs to Benicia, 2,031 miles; estimated cost, -$116,095,000. Obstructions same as in the first route, including wider -deserts and deeper and rougher mountain gorges. - -THIRD--Route of the thirty-eighth parallel, more familiarly known as -Benton’s great Central route, pronounced utterly impracticable from its -mountain obstructions. Estimated length from Westport to San Francisco, -2,080 miles. The topographical engineers gave up all estimates of the -cost of a road by this route, in absolute despair. - -FOURTH--Route of the thirty-fifth parallel--(Senator Rusk’s -route)--beginning at Fort Smith, in Arkansas, thence westward to -Albuquerque on the Upper Rio Grande, thence across the Rocky Mountains -and the Colorado of the West and great desert basin and its mountains, -and the lower end of the Sierra Nevada chain to San Pedro, at the -southern extremity of California, on the Pacific. This route is about as -bad as Benton’s, although the engineers think that 3,137 equated miles -and $169,210,265 might, perhaps, do the work. - -FIFTH--Route near the thirty-second parallel, or the extreme southern -route, via Texas, New Mexico, El Paso and the Gila to the Pacific. -Estimated distance from Fulton in Arkansas, to San Pedro on the Pacific, -1,618 miles--equated length, allowing for ascents and descents, 2,239 -miles. Estimated cost, $68,970,000. - -The advantages of this route are, that it is practically a third shorter -than any of the others between the Mississippi and the Pacific--that it -goes by the flank of the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada chain, -instead of going over or under them--that the route is over a region of -elevated table lands requiring little or no grading--and that the soil -is dry and free from snow from one end to the other, except occasional -light falls in New Mexico. - -RECAPITULATION. - - Distance of Ascents and Length of Comparative - ROUTES. Routes. Descents. Level Routes. Cost. - _Miles._ _Feet._ _Miles._ -Extreme northern 1,864 18,100 2,207 $130,781,000 -Mormon 2,032 29,120 2,583 116,095,000 -Benton’s 2,080 49,986 3,125 [A]---- -Albuquerque 1,892 48,812 2,816 169,210,265 -Extreme southern 1,618 32,784 2,239 68,970,000 - -[A] The cost by this route is so great that the road is impracticable. - - -SUMMIT OF HIGHEST PASS. - - _Feet._ -Extreme Northern route } { 6,044 -Tunnel at elevation of,} { 5,219 -Northern route. 8,373 -Benton’s route, } {10,032 -Tunnel at elevation of,} { 9,540 -Albuquerque route 7,472 -Extreme Southern route 5,717 - -These are the results of careful scientific explorations, by highly -accomplished engineers, of the several routes, from the extreme Northern -to the extreme Southern route; and it is only necessary to consult one -of the latest maps of the United States to see at a glance that the only -really available route is that of the extreme South, via El Paso and the -Gadsden country. The estimated cost of a railroad (single track, we -suppose) by this route is, in round numbers, $69,000,000, about half the -estimate of the best of the other routes, to say nothing further of the -saving of a thousand miles or so in the important matter of the distance -to be traversed. - -We consider this report conclusive as to the best route for a Pacific -Railroad--it is the extreme Southern route. A glance on any respectable -map of the United States, at the several routes indicated, will satisfy -the reader of this fact. The engineers of the army have only made it -more clear and satisfactory from their actual surveys. - - * * * * * - -But I must return again to my theme--California! I will now lay before -the reader a few extracts from letters which I have recently received -from friends in the Pacific State, and it will be seen how fully they -corroborate my own statement. - -An editorial friend, writing to me from San Francisco, says:--“Business -all over California remains in the same stagnant condition, and every -sign prognosticates a time of hardship and suffering. A crisis, in my -opinion, is approaching, which will drag down nine-tenths of the -business houses in the country. Money gets more stringent every day, and -every body seems to be at a loss to know what to do. I must confess I -see nothing promising in the future. It is truly a dark day for -California.” - -Another correspondent says--“There have been an unusual number of -murders, suicides, duels and squatter riots within the last fortnight. -Heaven only knows what is to become of our people. The devil seems to -have them all by the nose, and there is no telling where his -double-tailed majesty means to lead them.” In another letter, this same -correspondent goes on to say--“I have no encouraging news to send you by -this mail. Our markets continue distressingly dull. A great many -failures have taken place, and others are anticipated. Indeed, these are -trying times with the mercantile portion of our community. Every things -wears a dull and unpromising aspect. Hundreds of mechanics and laborers, -many of whom are in a deplorably destitute condition, are sauntering -about the streets, having nothing to do, and being unable to find -employment. And as a consequence of this unprosperous state of things, -we have to contend with many cases of despair and desperation. Within -the last week, four suicides, three murders, numerous robberies and -other crimes have been committed in our city; and the accounts from the -up-country towns, and from the interior of the State, convince us that -there is less respect paid to the moral and civil laws in those places, -than there is in this. It is known that there are now two large bands of -highwaymen prowling about the country; and our cities are filled with -secret organizations for rapacity and plunder.” - -Again, another correspondent says--“Every avenue to business is blocked -up with a crowd waiting for an opportunity. Scores of men of almost -every trade and profession are seeking employment amongst us; but there -is no demand for their services. You have no idea of the number of young -men who are getting themselves into a bad pickle by coming to this -country. California is indeed a mammoth lottery, and the credulous world -has been very impatient to secure tickets in it, refusing to believe the -fact that there are ninety-nine blanks to every prize. Two earthquakes -and several fires have occurred since I wrote to you from Sacramento. -The earthquakes were very slight, and but little damage resulted from -them; but the losses by fire have been immense. Enormous sums of foreign -capital are continually passing between the Atlantic States and our -city, in search of profitable investment.” - -The following interesting letter, just received, I give in full:-- - - WEAVERVILLE, Cal., May 7th, 1855. - - My Dear Friend,--I owe you an _amende_ for the “long and silent - lapse” that has lately occurred in our correspondence--or rather in - that part of it which emanates from me. A simple statement of the - fact that I have been constantly on the move for the past four - months is the best apology I have to offer in extenuation of my - fault. - - Let us retrospect a little. I wrote you frequently from Humboldt - Bay, in answer to favors--my last letter having been written the - day previous to my leaving that place. As I then intimated, the - next day found me on my way to the mines; and the journey, rough as - it was, during the most inclement season of the year, and reaching - to a distance of one hundred and fifty miles, I performed _on - foot_! You have a pretty good idea of the mountains of this - country, and can realize the amount of fatigue and hardship - attendant upon such a trip as mine. Scarcely twenty-four hours - passed that it did not either rain, hail or snow, while we had not - even a tent to shelter us. Yet, with all this, I improved daily in - health and strength--weighing now ten pounds heavier than at any - time previous. - - What is to be the result, pecuniarily, of this trip, is yet to be - answered. I have a mining claim, which, with all my industry and - economy, has only yielded me a living. It may improve--I may make a - “strike”--but this is mere speculation. Time alone can tell. I like - mining much--hard work though it be--and am resolved to follow it - as a business for the remnant of my days, or until I have a - competence. There is a charm--an inexpressible something, inherent - in the pursuit--which carries a man through the day’s toil with - unabated energy. It is a feeling akin to that which leads men to - the gaming table, to wild speculations, or to hazardous - undertakings; and each succeeding day finds a miner as eager as - ever to continue the search after the hidden treasure. The gold has - a different appearance, a greater intrinsic value in his eyes, than - that which is acquired in any other way. He is the _first_ to - receive it from Nature’s bank of deposit, and it possesses a beauty - that no coin can equal. - - It is away up on the head waters of Trinity river, or rather on one - of its tributaries, that my cabin rears its humble proportions. - With no neighbors nearer than one mile--the mountains rising high - above and all around me--encompassed by a forest of pine and - spruce--in the midst of wild beasts, wild cats, catamounts, - grizzlies and lions--I am leading a genuine backwoods life. It is - needless to say that its novelty charms me, and that I glory in the - most perfect independence. Nor is this all. Flowers, beautiful, - rich, rare, bedeck the mountain sides, (for this is May, the month - of flowers,) and I can gather a bouquet that would shame those of - civilized gardens. Nature defies art, and Nature’s gems stand - proudly, unrivaled and unapproached. And yet this is not all. There - is a little bird who sits and warbles, almost all day long, the - sweetest melody I ever heard. Up in the foliage of a huge pine, - adjacent to my cabin, dwells the pretty songster; and I speak but - the truth when I say that beside him a canary would hang its head. - My wild-wood warbler reigns the king of songsters. - - My furniture arrangements are not, as yet, finished. I have neither - table nor chairs. Supported at one end by a sack of potatoes, at - the other by my left hand, is the board on which this sheet is - laid, while your humble friend sits on the ground, _a la Turk_, (or - tailor,) and indites this “missel” to you. I am meek and lowly in - my pretensions now, Hinton, and my rough miner’s suit sits lightly - on my frame. Adieu for the present. I have no envelopes, and must, - therefore, close on this page. Wishing you every success and - happiness, - - I remain your attached friend, - * * * - -And now listen to what the District Attorney for the county of San -Francisco says. In a speech which he delivered some time ago in a -criminal case in the city of San Francisco, he makes use of the -following language:--“Twelve hundred murders have been committed in this -city within the last four years, and only one of the murderers has been -convicted!” What a striking comment is this upon California justice! -Twelve hundred murders in the city of San Francisco alone, within the -space of four years, and only one conviction! But it is unnecessary for -me to lengthen my remarks upon these subjects. If additional evidences -of the corruption and rottenness of affairs in California are required, -all that is necessary is to look into the papers that come from that -State, and the desired knowledge will soon be obtained. Here, however, -let me simply say that it is impossible to get at the real, naked facts -from the California journals. Almost every newspaper in the State is -under the control of interested parties, and they will not allow the -truth to be spoken when it conflicts with their schemes and projects. -Nevertheless, enough may be learned from them to convince any reasonable -person of the correctness of my description of California. - -Thus, then, I have given a fair and truthful statement of what I saw, -and those who are not yet convinced must go and test the matter for -themselves. They will find what I have told them to be true, and that -there is more enormity there than I have ventured to detail. - -The absence of all social feeling, of refinement, of the little -elegancies of life, is painfully manifest. It would, of course, be -absurd to expect in a new country all the luxuries of an old -civilization, but their absence constitutes no excuse for the total want -of even the decencies of life. Law is a nullity, or at best a mere -nominal thing; order does not exist except where the dread of the -bowie-knife or the revolver enforces it. Men of notoriously bad -character are intrusted with the management of affairs, and are easily -accessible to bribery. Justice is proverbially venal, legislation is -utterly corrupt. Such a loose administration of public affairs would be -productive of bad results any where, but its influence is especially -malign in California, where so many desperate men are to be found, -determined, at every hazard, to better their fortunes. Murder, robbery -and swindling are the methods by which they aim to increase their -income, the law being powerless to check them. - -We have called attention to the general barrenness of the soil, and -endeavored to impress upon the reader’s mind a conviction of the great -uncertainties of mining. What then remains to attract the emigrant? The -feverish excitement of speculation, which entices so many only to -destroy them. In all countries, this is productive as much loss as -gain, but in California, where projects are pursued with a recklessness -elsewhere unknown, the losses are on a gigantic scale. Disappointments, -therefore, have the keenness of those of the beaten gambler, to whom -defeat is irretrievable ruin. What wonder, then, that suicides are so -common in that unhappy country? - -Of the condition of females in that State, it is useless for me to -speak. I have already said enough on that subject, and it becomes every -man who thinks of emigrating thither, to ponder well the risks to which -he will subject the ladies of his family. The enormities chargeable upon -California in this respect would be difficult to parallel in any age of -the world. They are of so gross a nature that it is impossible even to -allude to them in a book which may be seen by women. - -And now, after having well considered all these things, after having -become thoroughly acquainted with the facts I have been at the pains to -collect and record. I would again ask my reader, Are you going to -California? - - -THE END. - - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -without any orther remuneration=> without any other remuneration {pg 60} - -with dust and derspiration=> with dust and perspiration {pg 147} - -I am well aquainted=> I am well acquainted {pg 164} - - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF GOLD; REALITY -VERSUS FICTION *** - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will -be renamed. - -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the -United States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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Helper</p> -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and -most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms -of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online -at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you -are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the -country where you are located before using this eBook. -</div> - -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: The land of gold; reality versus fiction</p> -<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Hinton R. Helper</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: November 5, 2022 [eBook #69295]</p> -<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</p> - <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images available at The Internet Archive)</p> -<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF GOLD; REALITY VERSUS FICTION ***</div> -<hr class="full"> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" height="550" alt="[The -image of the book's cover is unavailable.]"> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_i">{i}</a></span>  </p> - -<div class="blk"> -<h1>THE<br><br> -LAND OF GOLD.<br><br><small> -REALITY VERSUS FICTION.</small></h1> - -<p class="c"> -————<br> - -BY<br> -H I N T O N   R.   H E L P ER.<br> -————<br> -<br><br> -BALTIMORE:<br> -PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR,<br> -BY HENRY TAYLOR, SUN IRON BUILDING.<br> -1855.</p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_ii">{ii}</a></span></p> - -<p class="c"><small>Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, by<br> -H I N T O N   R.   H E L P ER.,<br> -In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, for the<br> -District of Maryland.</small></p> - -<p class="hang"><span class="smcap">Sherwood & Co., Printers</span>,<br> -<small>BALTIMORE.</small> -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_iii">{iii}</a></span></p> - -<div class="blk"> -<p class="c"> -TO THE<br> -<br><span class="lspc"> -HON. JOHN M. MOREHEAD</span>,<br> -<br> -OF NORTH CAROLINA,<br> -<br> -<span class="eng">These Pages are respectfully Dedicated,</span><br> -<br> -BY HIS<br> -<br> -SINCERE FRIEND AND ADMIRER,<br> -<br><span style="margin-left: 12em;"><span class="lspc">THE AUTHOR</span>.</span></p> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_iv">{iv}</a></span>  </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_v">{v}</a></span>  </p> - -<h2><a id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Previous</span> to my departure for California, near and dear friends extracted -from me a promise to communicate by letter, upon every convenient -occasion, such intelligence as would give them a distinct idea of the -truthfulness or falsehood of the many glowing descriptions and reputed -vast wealth of California. In accordance with this promise, I collected, -from the best and most reliable sources, all that I deemed worthy of -record touching the past of the modern El Dorado, relying upon my own -powers of observation to depicture its present condition and its future -prospects.</p> - -<p>This correspondence was never intended for the public eye, for the -simple reason that the matter therein is set forth in a very plain -manner, with more regard to truth than elegance of diction. Indeed, how -could it be otherwise? I have only described those things which came -immediately under my own observation, and, beside this, I make no -pretensions to extensive scholastic attainments, nor do I claim to be an -adept in the art of book-making.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_vi">{vi}</a></span></p> - -<p>A weary and rather unprofitable sojourn of three years in various parts -of California, afforded me ample time and opportunity to become <i>too</i> -thoroughly conversant with its rottenness and its corruption, its -squalor and its misery, its crime and its shame, its gold and its dross. -Simply and truthfully I gave the history of my experience to friends at -home, who, after my return, suggested that profit might be derived from -giving these letters to the world in narrative form, and urged me so -strenuously, that I at length acceded to their wishes, but not without -much reluctance, being doubtful as to the reception of a book from one -so incapable as myself of producing any thing more than a plain -“unvarnished tale.”</p> - -<p>In order to present a more complete picture of California, I have added -two chapters, that describing the route through Nicaragua, and the -general <i>resume</i> at the close of my volume. All that I solicit for this, -my first offering, is a liberal and candid examination; not of a part, -but of the whole—not a cursory, but a considerate reading.</p> - -<p class="r"> -H. R. H.<br> -</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Salisbury</span>, North Carolina, 1855.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_vii">{vii}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> - -<table> -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">CALIFORNIA UNVEILED</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">Introductory Remarks—Erroneous opinions respecting California—Sterility -of the Soil—The Seasons—Destitution of -Mechanical and Manufacturing Resources—Dependence -upon Importations for the Conveniences and Necessaries of -Life—No Inducement to become Permanent Residents of the -country</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_13">13</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">THE BALANCE SHEET</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">California statistically considered—Cost of the Treaty of -Guadalupe Hidalgo—Price of Passage and Services of Immigrants—Total -Yield of the Mines—Amount of Property -destroyed by Fires, Freshets and Inundations—List of -Sailing Vessels and Steamers Wrecked upon the coast—Public -Debt of the State—Debts of San Francisco, Sacramento -and Marysville—Loss of Life by violent measures—Extract -from the Louisville Journal</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_23">23</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">SOCIETY IN CALIFORNIA</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">Extraordinary Depravity and Corruption—Reasons assigned -for the laxity of Morals—Much of the Degeneracy and Dissipation -attributable to the absence of female society—The -Case of an English gentleman—His Story—General Remarks -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_viii">{viii}</a></span>concerning the different classes of Women</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_36">36</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">SAN FRANCISCO</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">Importance of San Francisco—The Golden Gate—The Harbor—Long -Wharf—A Motley Crowd—The Shipping—Names -of Vessels—Vagrant Boys—Commercial Street—Wooden -Tenements—The Jews—Fire-proof brick and -stone structures—Montgomery street—Menial Employments—Professional -Men washing dishes, waiting upon -the table, and peddling shrimps and tomcods—Lawyers -and Land Titles—Grog Shops and Tippling Houses—Bill -of Fare of a California Groggery</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_45">45</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">SAN FRANCISCO—CONTINUED</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">Clay street—Gazing in Ladies’ Faces—The Gambling Houses—Heterogeneous -Assemblage of Blacklegs—The Plaza—The -City Hall—A Case of Bribery and Corruption—French -Restaurants—Flour and other Provisions—Frauds and -Adulterations</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_69">69</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">SAN FRANCISCO—CONCLUDED</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">A Pistol Gallery—Doctor Natchez—Population of the City—Filling -in the Bay—Lack of Vegetation—Yearning for the -society of Trees</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_81">81</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">THE CHINESE IN CALIFORNIA</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">National habits and traits of Chinese Character—Their -Dress—The number of Chinese in California—How they -employ their time—Their arrogance and presumption—Manner -of Eating—Singularity of their names—Is the -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_ix">{ix}</a></span>Chinese Immigration desirable?</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_86">86</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">CURSORY VIEWS</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">The Pacific Side of the Continent much Inferior to the Atlantic -Side—Poverty and Suffering in California—Rash and -mistaken ideas of the country—A few very Fertile Valleys—Value -of the Precious Metals to the country in which -they are found—The Climate</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_97">97</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">SUNDAY IN CALIFORNIA</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">Manner of Spending the Sabbath—Mixture and Dissimilarity -of the Population—Dance Houses—Mexican Women—Influence -of Female Society upon the Community—Churches -in San Francisco</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_109">109</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">BEAR AND BULL FIGHT</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">Advertisement announcing the Sport—Mission Dolores—An -old Catholic Church—Preparation for the Fight—The -Audience—The Attack—Progress of the Conflict—The -Finale</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_116">116</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">SACRAMENTO</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">City and Valley of Sacramento—The Legislature—Shabby -Hotels—Teamsters and Muleteers—Excess of Merchants—Continual -Depression in Business—Perfidy and Dishonesty -of Consignees—California Conflagrations—The Three Cent -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_x">{x}</a></span>Philosopher</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_131">131</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">YUBA—THE MINER’S TENT</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">Trip to the Mines—Modus Operandi of Single-handed Mining—Names -of Bars—Mining Laws—More Gentility and -Nobleness of Soul among the Miners than any other Class -of People in California—The case of a Highwayman—Description -of a Miner’s Tent—His Diet and Cooking Utensils—Toilsomeness -of Mining—Proceeds of three months’<br> -labor</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_147">147</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">STOCKTON AND SONORA</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">Situation of Stockton—The San Joaquin Valley—Trip to -Sonora—The best Hotel in the Place—A Lunatic—A Gambling -Prodigy—Shooting Affair—A case of Lynch Law—Description -of Sonora—Land Speculators—Ephemeral -Cities—Excitability of the Californians—The Beard—A -good old Man—His Story</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_161">161</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA VIA CAPE HORN</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">Embarkation from New York—A Terrible Storm—Loss of -Masts and narrow escape from Shipwreck—Wreck of a -Swedish Brig—An unfortunate Little Bird—Patagonia -and Cape Horn—Stoppage at Valparaiso—Earthquakes—Appearance -of the City—A Delectable Garden—Two Catholic -Priests—Beauty of Ocean Scenery in the Pacific—The -St. Felix Islands—Arrival in San Francisco</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_187">187</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">VOYAGE FROM CALIFORNIA VIA NICARAGUA</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">Departure from San Francisco—Matters and Things aboard -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_xi">{xi}</a></span>the Steamer—The Passengers—A Hoax—Arrival at San -Juan del Sur—Novel Mode of Debarkation—Ludicrous -Scenes—Trip across the Country—The Weather—Virgin -Bay—Lake Nicaragua—The San Juan River—Bad Management -and shabby Treatment on the Isthmus—Negro -Slavery and Central America—San Juan del Norte, alias -Greytown</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_209">209</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">MY LAST MINING ADVENTURE</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">Projected Voyage to Australia abandoned—Trip to the Mines -in Tuolumne county—My quaint Friend and Companion,<br> -Mr. Shad Back—Operations in Columbia—The Result</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_225">225</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEE</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">Disordered State of Society—Atrocious and barefaced Crimes—Organization -of Vigilance Committees—Salutary effect of -their Proceedings—Defence of their Motives and Actions—A -case of Lynch Law in Sacramento</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_237">237</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">BODEGA</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">Trip to Bodega on a Mischievous and Refractory Mule—A -Chinese Encampment—Description of the country in the -vicinity of Bodega—The Village of Petaluma—Cruel Treatment -of an Indian Boy—Serious Consequences result from -the villainous Pranks of his Muleship—Ben, an eccentric -old Negro</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_254">254</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">THE DIGGER INDIANS AND NEGROES</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">Indolence and Insignificance of the Digger Indians—What -they eat—Means of obtaining the Necessaries of Life—Their -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_xii">{xii}</a></span>Habits and Peculiarities—An Incident at a Slaughterhouse—The -Negroes in California—The case of a New -Orleans Sea-captain and his Slave Joe—A North Carolinian -and his two Negroes</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_268">268</a></td></tr> - -<tr><th colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX.<br><br> -<span class="subhead"> -ARE YOU GOING TO CALIFORNIA?</span></a></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">Resume of the preceding chapters—Arguments in favor of -the Atlantic and Pacific Railway—Advantages of the -Southern Route—Abstract of the Report of the Secretary -of War on the several Pacific Railroad Explorations—Extracts -from Letters—Conclusion</td><td class="rtb"><a href="#page_280">280</a></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_13">{13}</a></span></p> - -<h1>THE LAND OF GOLD.</h1> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">CALIFORNIA UNVEILED.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">An</span> intelligent and patriotic curiosity will find the history of few -countries more interesting than that of California—which has at length -realized those dreams of El Dorado that beguiled so many an early -adventurer from the comforts and bliss of his fireside, to delude and -destroy him. The marshes of the Orinoco, the Keys of Florida, and the -hills of Mexico cover the bones of many of these original speculators in -the minerals of the Western World. They sought wealth, and found graves. -How many of the modern devotees of Mammon have done better in our newly -opened land of gold?</p> - -<p>To explain the causes of the frequent disappointment of these cherished -hopes; to determine the true value of this modern El Dorado; to exhibit -the prominent features of California and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_14">{14}</a></span> its principal cities, -particularly San Francisco, and thus to enable those who still encourage -golden dreams to form a proper estimate of their chances of success, -without submitting to the painful teachings of experience—these have -been the motives which have actuated the author of the present work.</p> - -<p>The less to weary the reader, the book has been broken up into chapters, -in which the author proposes to discourse familiarly upon what he has -seen and felt, as he would in a friendly letter, rather than to write a -formal essay or treatise upon California. In pursuing this plan, it is -his intention to confine himself exclusively to facts, and to describe -those facts as clearly as possible, so as to leave no ground for a -conjectural filling up of those outlines which his negligence may have -left vague and indistinct.</p> - -<p>In this country, where almost every event that occurs is as momentous -and unaccountable as the wonderful exploits of Habib’s and Aladdin’s -genii, to deal with any thing aside from actual matters of fact, is at -once as silly and profitless a business as that of whistling against the -winds. Yet, in nine-tenths of the descriptions of life and times in -California, truth and facts have been set aside, and the writers, -instead of confining themselves to a faithful delineation of that which -actually exists, have made astonishing and unwarranted drafts upon -their<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_15">{15}</a></span> imaginations. Instead of detailing facts, they have written -fictions; instead of making a true record, they have interwoven -falsehoods with the very web of their story. They have chronicled dreams -instead of realities, and have registered vagaries as actual events and -undeniable certainties. But they have themselves been deceived. They -have been duped in listening to the delusive whispers of mischievous -sirens, whose flattering suggestions and plausible stories have had such -a magical influence upon their excited minds, that they have become -accustomed to consider every thought of wealth that occurs to them a -veritable mountain of gold;—that is to say, they have, by some strange -hallucination, been converted to the belief that whatever California -ought to be for their own particular ends and interests, it really is. -In the night-time they have arranged and matured prodigious plans of -profit, and although many days have dawned upon them since, that time -has yet to come which shall reveal to them the utter nothingness of -their nocturnal reveries. But the day will come, and it is fast -approaching, when the spell must be broken. The iron utensils, which -have been transmuted into golden urns and palaces night after night, -shall once and for ever resume their true quality at the approach of -day. The spell-bound shall be freed! The reverie shall be dissipated, -the false wealth analyzed,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_16">{16}</a></span> and resolved into its component parts; and -when these things are done, California will be seen in its true light. -Then the eyes of the people will be opened. The golden haze which has -hung over this land of romantic hopes and deadly disappointments will -then be rolled away, and the clear, naked sunlight of Truth will shine -upon this ugly cheat, revealing it in all its naked deformity to the -eyes of the abused and misinformed public. Then, and not till then, will -the full extent of popular delusion on this topic be known, and this -mighty genie collapse into its original caldron.</p> - -<p>The truth is, California has been much overrated and much overdone. She -has been pressed beyond her limits and capacities. Her managers have -been rash, prodigal and incompetent, and they have embarrassed her -beyond hope of relief—though, it must be acknowledged, her condition -was never very hopeful, but, on the contrary, I may say with the poet, -she was only “half made up.” It is plain to be seen that she was never -finished. She has never paid for herself. An overwhelming public debt -now rests upon her shoulders, and she has nothing to show for it. She is -bankrupt. Her resources are being rapidly exhausted, and there is but -lank promise in the future. Her spacious harbors and geographical -position are her true wealth; her gold fields and arid hills are her -poverty. But com<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_17">{17}</a></span>modious and safe as are her harbors when once entered, -they are not the easiest nor safest of access in the world, as I shall -hereafter prove by statistics of vessels wrecked upon this coast within -the last six years. And, before I finish, I shall offer other -statistical information of interest and importance relative to the State -at large, in substantiation as well of what I have already said as of -that which I have yet to say. I may remark here that, my curiosity -having led me to collect and prepare these statistics with no little -care and attention, and at no trifling sacrifice of time and means, they -may be relied upon as correct.</p> - -<p>A residence of nearly three years, during which time I have traveled -over a wide extent of those parts of the State which are most highly -esteemed for agriculture and minerals, has, I claim, enabled me to -arrive at a pretty accurate estimate of her character and capacities; -and I have no hesitation in avowing it as my candid opinion (and I have -not been a very inattentive observer) that, balancing resource against -defect, and comparing territory with territory, California is the -poorest State in the Union. She has little to recommend her except her -fascinating metal, the acquisition of which, however, in its first or -natural state, seems always to require a greater sacrifice of moral and -physical wealth than a single exchange of it afterwards can possibly<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_18">{18}</a></span> -restore. I know it has been published to the world that this country -possesses extraordinary agricultural abilities; but this is an assertion -wholly gratuitous, and not susceptible of demonstration. Taken -altogether, it is no such thing. Some of her valleys are, indeed, -exceedingly fertile; but, when we compare their superficies with the -area of the State, we find they are but as oases in a desert. I -seriously believe that a fair and thorough trial will show that she has -more than three times as much sterile land, in proportion to her -territory, than any of her sister States. On an average, a square rood -of Carolina earth contains as much fertilizing nutriment as an acre of -California soil. Comparatively speaking, she has neither season nor -soil.</p> - -<p>No rain falls between the first of April and the middle of November, in -consequence of which the earth becomes so dry and hard that nothing will -grow; and the small amount of grass, weeds, or other vegetation that may -have shot up in the spring, is parched by the scorching sun until it is -rendered as easy of ignition as prepared fuel. The valleys above -mentioned are the only spots exempt from this curse. On the other hand, -from the first of December to the last of March it rains, as a general -thing, so copiously and incessantly, that all out-door avocations must -be suspended; and as there is no mechanical or in-door labor, either of -use or profit, to be performed, the people<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_19">{19}</a></span> are subjected to the -disagreeable and expensive task of idling away their time in hotels and -restaurants, at the rate of from two to three dollars per day for board -alone, other expenses being in the same ratio. More of the disadvantages -of this unfortunate inconsistency of the seasons, and of the paucity of -resources of employment here, will be noticed as we proceed. As for the -valleys we have spoken of, they will afford a sufficient supply of -breadstuffs to support sparse settlements, but the average or general -surface of the country is incapable of sustaining a dense population.</p> - -<p>If we inquire after the manufacturing and mechanical resources of the -State, we will find that she has none whatever; in this respect she is -as destitute as the aboriginal settlements of America. Nor can she -establish, encourage or maintain these arts, for the reason that she -would be under the necessity of importing, not only the machinery and -raw materials, but also the fuel. She could not, therefore, compete with -neighboring States, which have at least some of these indispensable -requisites. Nor has she any advantages or facilities for either water or -steam power. How, then, can she obtain a reputation for manufactures and -mechanism, having neither the material to work, nor the force or means -to work with? She has neither cotton nor flax, coal nor timber. She is -rich in nothing, and poor in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_20">{20}</a></span> every thing. She has to import every thing -she uses, but has nothing to export, except her gold, which, instead of -being a blessing to her, is a curse. Even the ground she cultivates she -has to inclose with imported fencing wire, not having timber suitable -for railing or paling purposes. That which is esteemed her chief -treasure, dependence and commodity, gold, seems to be the least -subservient to her advancement and prosperity; for, comparatively -speaking, she sends it all away, and retains none for home use or -convenience; and thus it is that she has, in a measure, been a benefit -to others, while she has blindly and foolishly impoverished herself. In -this she has acted upon the principle of the cobbler, whose shoes are -ever tattered, and of the blacksmith, whose horses always go unshod.</p> - -<p>But this profuse exportation of gold is significant of another important -fact, while at the same time it demonstrates what I have said above. It -shows conclusively that there is no inducement to invest capital -permanently in this country, either in the prosecution of business or in -the establishment of homes or residences. Immigrants find neither beauty -nor gain to hold them here; and I feel warranted in venturing the -assertion that not more than ten per cent. of the population are -satisfied to remain. Of the other ninety per cent., the bodies only -subsist here—their hearts abide in better climes; and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_21">{21}</a></span> they are -anxiously waiting and wishing for the time when they shall have an -opportunity of releasing themselves from the golden fetters which detain -them, and escaping from a country which, with all its wealth, is to them -a dreary prison. Only a small minority of the few who are lucky enough, -by fair means or foul, to accumulate fortune or competence, are induced -to identify their lives and interests with the country.</p> - -<p>But the women are almost unanimous in their determination not to make -California any thing more than a temporary residence; and they have good -reasons for this resolution. Besides the social depravity to which I -shall presently allude, and which is sufficient to shock the -sensibilities of any <i>man</i> of ordinary morality, there are hosts of -minor annoyances, resulting from the climate and the geographical -position of the country, that inflict peculiar pain upon female -sensibilities. The mud, which is often knee-deep, keeps them imprisoned -all the winter; while, in summer, the dust, as fine as flour and as -abundant as earth itself, stifles the inhabitants, fills the houses, -penetrates into every nook and corner, finds its way even into the inner -drawers and chests, soils the wardrobe, spoils the furniture, and -sullies every thing. Besides, California is especially infested with -vermin. Fleas, ants, and all sorts of creeping things are as<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_22">{22}</a></span> ubiquitous -as those that tormented Pharaoh and his people, and quite as annoying. -No house is free from them, no one can escape the perpetual martyrdom of -their stings, or the annoyance of their presence. As the ladies are the -special sufferers from these abominable little nuisances, their -unanimous dislike of the country is not at all to be wondered at. In -proof of this unanimity, I can only offer the fact that, in conversation -with quite a number of women who have resided in this State, I have yet -to meet with one who is willing to make it her permanent abode.</p> - -<p>We have alluded to the winds, because they really are a peculiar feature -in the meteorology of this State. In the summer time they blow with -peculiar violence, and facilitate the spread of the great fires from -which California has suffered so much.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_23">{23}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">THE BALANCE-SHEET.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Let</span> us now take a glance at the <i>pros</i> and <i>cons</i> of California in -statistical form. I have said that the State is bankrupt, that she has -never returned an equivalent for the labor and money invested in her, -and that she has been represented to be a great deal more than she is in -reality—all of which I now reiterate, and shall endeavor to -demonstrate. To make out a perfect and complete account-current, or -balance-sheet, exhibiting the State’s entire gains and losses of time, -labor, life, money, etc., would require such a profound knowledge of -financial affairs, and of political economy, that it would puzzle Adam -Smith himself; we will not, therefore, attempt accuracy or exactness, -but, having sufficient data to sustain us in our position, we will -proceed to make it known.</p> - -<p>Without charging California with any of the enormous expenses of the -Mexican war, or the check given to the increase of population which that -war occasioned, we will simply make her debtor for the amount of -purchase-money that was paid for her, and for the various sums it has<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_24">{24}</a></span> -cost to control, manage and maintain her since. And, to avoid that -complication and multiplicity of entries that would inevitably result -from an introduction of all the individuals, parties or countries that -have had dealings with the State, and as a matter of convenience, we -will assume that there shall be but two parties recognized in the -transaction, one of debit and one of credit—California and the United -States. This will be treating the subject as a matter of dollars and -cents, and will enable us to see how much has been made or lost, as the -case may be, out of this Eureka venture or speculation.</p> - -<p>In the first place, then, California is debtor to the United States for -her quota of the amount of purchase-money paid to Mexico for herself and -for New Mexico, including contingent fund absorbed by Mexican claimants, -as per agreement at the treaty of Guadaloupe Hidalgo, $10,000,000. In -the next place, let us see how much she is indebted to the United States -for labor. At the present time, her population is estimated at about two -hundred and fifty thousand. It is but little greater now than it was in -1849. In ’51 and ’52 it was larger than it was or has been at any -preceding or subsequent period. It would probably be fair to estimate -the average population at two hundred and fifty thousand for the last -six years; of this number, it is supposed that from thirty to -thirty-five thousand are<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_25">{25}</a></span> women and children, who have become residents -of the State within the last three or four years. Admitting, then, that -there are thirty-five thousand women and children, and deducting this -number from two hundred and fifty thousand, we have a balance of two -hundred and fifteen thousand men, whose service for six years, at say -$225 per annum for each man, amounts to $290,230,000. The outfits and -passage of these men—to say nothing of the women and children—cost, at -the lowest calculation, $200 per head; so we find that the expense of -transporting the actual laborers alone has been at least $43,000,000. We -may afford to let this latter amount rest as it is; but when we take -into consideration the fact that the steamers are continually crowded -with persons returning from California, and that their places are filled -by new emigrants, who have to purchase new passage-tickets and new -outfits, it is quite obvious that the figures express much less than the -real amount. The above sums added together constitute the United States’ -charge against California. We will add them together, and then compare -the total sum with the amount of gold that has been produced in -California.</p> - -<table> -<tr><td>Original cost of the country</td><td class="rtb">$10,000,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Labor</td><td class="rtb">290,230,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Outfits and transportation</td><td class="rtb">43,000,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">Grand total</td><td class="rtbt">$343,130,000</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_26">{26}</a></span></p> - -<p>Thus we see California is debtor to the United States three hundred and -forty-three millions two hundred and thirty thousand dollars. Now let us -examine the account which California brings as an offset to this amount. -The entire yield of the mines up to the present time, January, 1855, has -been about two hundred and forty-five millions of dollars. And this is -all. We cannot credit her with any thing else that would not be -equipoised or balanced by the capital, whether owned or borrowed, -brought hither from various parts of the world, and invested in business -and improvements, and about which nothing has been said in the bill of -charges. Here, then, is the sum and substance of the whole matter:</p> - -<table> -<tr><td>The United States account against California.</td><td class="rtb">$343,230,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>California’s account against the United States.</td><td class="rtb">245,000,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">Deficit.</td><td class="rtbt">$98,230,000</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>And now let us see how much money has been lost in and about California -by casualties, accidents and mismanagement. The reader shall judge -whether any part of the amount should be charged to the State. As for -us, we shall simply feel it our duty to furnish the statistics. In -regard to the expenses of Fremont’s Battalion, of the Army of Occupation -in ’47 and ’48, and of the wars since waged against the -Indians—amounting in all to several millions of dollars, we will say -nothing.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_27">{27}</a></span></p> - -<p>In the annexed table is an account of the various fires that have -occurred throughout the State. It will be perceived that the date of -occurrence and amount of property destroyed are both given.</p> - -<p class="c">FIRES IN CALIFORNIA.</p> - -<table> -<tr><td>Fire in</td><td>San Francisco,</td><td> December 24, 1849</td><td class="rtb">$1,000,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td class="c">“</td><td>May 4, 1850</td><td class="rtb">3,500,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td class="c">“</td><td>June 14, 1850</td><td class="rtb">3,000,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td class="c">“</td><td>September 17, 1850</td><td class="rtb">450,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td class="c">“</td><td>December 14, 1850</td><td class="rtb">1,000,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td class="c">“</td><td>May 3, 1851</td><td class="rtb">12,000,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td class="c">“</td><td>June 22, 1851</td><td class="rtb">3,000,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td class="c">“</td><td>November 9, 1852</td><td class="rtb">125,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td class="c">“</td><td>Sundry fires in 1853</td><td class="rtb">265,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Fire in</td><td>Sacramento,</td><td>November 2, 1852</td><td class="rtb">10,000,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Sonora,</td><td> June 18, 1852</td><td class="rtb">2,500,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Sonora,</td><td>October 14, 1853</td><td class="rtb">300,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Sonora,</td><td>November 2, 1853</td><td class="rtb">50,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Stockton,</td><td> May 6, 1851</td><td class="rtb">3,000,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Marysville,</td><td> August 30, 1851</td><td class="rtb">500,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Marysville,</td><td>September 10, 1851</td><td class="rtb">80,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Marysville,</td><td>November 7, 1852</td><td class="rtb">150,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Shasta, </td><td>February 8, 1853</td><td class="rtb">225,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Nevada,</td><td> March 10, 1851</td><td class="rtb">200,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Weaverville,</td><td> March 7, 1853</td><td class="rtb">125,000</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="3">Sundry fires in different parts of the State, dates unobtainable</td><td class="rtb">4,400,000</td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="3"> </td><td class="rtbt">$45,870,000</td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="3" class="pdd">Freshets and inundations, in the Sacramento and San - Joaquin valleys, have swept off or destroyed one - million five hundred thousand dollars worth of - property within the last six years</td><td class="rtb">$1,500,000</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_28">{28}</a></span></p> - -<p>The following sailing vessels and steamers have been wrecked upon the -coast within the same period:</p> - -<p class="c">SAILING VESSELS—SOME WITH CARGOES.</p> - -<table> -<tr><td>Ship</td><td>Tonquin—December, 1849</td><td rowspan="10" -style="vertical-align:middle;border-left:1px solid black;">—$2,300,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Crownprincessen—February, 1850</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Utica—July, 1850</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Somerset—December, 1850</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Oxford—July, 1852</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Aberdeen—July, 1853</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Carrier Pigeon—June, 1853</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Eclipse—October, 1853</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>Jenny Lind—December, 1853</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">“</td><td>San Francisco—February, 1854</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c">STEAMERS.</p> - -<table> -<tr><td>Commodore Preble—May 3, 1850</td><td class="rtb">$ 50,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Union—July 5, 1851</td><td class="rtb">150,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Chesapeake—October, 1851</td><td class="rtb">50,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sea Gull—January 26, 1852</td><td class="rtb">50,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Gen. Warren—January 31, 1852</td><td class="rtb">50,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>North America—February 27, 1852</td><td class="rtb">150,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Pioneer—August 17, 1852</td><td class="rtb">250,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>City of Pittsburg—October 24, 1852</td><td class="rtb">250,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Independence—February 16, 1853</td><td class="rtb">70,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Tennessee—March 6, 1853</td><td class="rtb">300,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>S. S. Lewis—April 9, 1853</td><td class="rtb">150,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Washington—1853</td><td class="rtb">40,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Commodore Stockton—1852</td><td class="rtb">60,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Winfield Scott—December 2, 1853</td><td class="rtb">290,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sundry steamers and sailers, the names of which have been misplaced</td><td class="rtb">850,000</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td class="rtbt">$2,760,000</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd">The present public debt of the State—entailed upon the<br> -people by one of the most imbecile and dissolute<br> -legislatures that were ever assembled in an enlightened<br> -country—is three millions of dollars</td><td class="rtbt">$3,000,000 -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_29">{29}</a></span></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="pdd"> -The debts of the three principal cities are as follows:<br> -The total amount of the indebtedness of San Francisco<br> -is $3,342,000. The debt of the city of Sacramento<br> -amounts to $1,500,000. The entire debt of<br> -the city of Marysville amounts to over $70,000</td><td class="rtb">$4,912,000 -<tr><td class="c">Total</td><td class="rtbt">$60,342,000 -</table> - -<p class="c">RECAPITULATION.</p> - -<table> -<tr><td>Fires</td><td class="rtb">$45,870,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Freshets</td><td class="rtb">1,500,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Shipping</td><td class="rtb">5,060,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>State debt</td><td class="rtb">3,000,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>City debt</td><td class="rtb">4,912,000</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td class="rtbt">$60,342,000</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>These figures show the amount of property that has been destroyed, or -the amount of losses that have been sustained in California, by -accidents, mishaps and mismanagement, within the last six years. I will, -moreover, give a list of lives lost by violent measures during the same -period:</p> - -<table> -<tr><td>Murders</td><td class="rtb">4,200</td></tr> -<tr><td>Suicides</td><td class="rtb">1,400</td></tr> -<tr><td>Insanity, (produced by disappointment and misfortune)</td><td class="rtb">1,700</td></tr> -<tr><td>Wrecked and perished on the way per sailing vessels and steamers</td><td class="rtb">2,200</td></tr> -<tr><td>Killed by Indians and died of starvation per overland route</td><td class="rtb">1,600</td></tr> -<tr><td>Perished in the mines and mountains of the State for want<br> -of medical attention and food, and by the hands of the<br> -Indians</td><td class="rtb">5,300</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">Total</td><td class="rtbt">16,400</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>It may be urged that the State ought not to be held accountable for any -number of these sixteen<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_30">{30}</a></span> thousand four hundred unfortunates, who, for -the lack of law and order in a majority of the cases, lost their lives -by violent means. We leave the question entirely with the reader. It may -also be urged that the State ought not to be charged with any part of -the extraordinary losses by fire and shipwreck, notwithstanding foreign -capitalists were the principal sufferers in both cases. This question we -also submit to the decision of the reader.</p> - -<p>But I deem it unnecessary to dwell on this part of my subject. In -presenting the foregoing calculations, it has been my aim to show that -California is a country of unparalleled casualties and catastrophes, and -to direct attention to the immense losses which have been sustained in -opening its mines of wealth. A large number of people, it seems, have -got into the habit of estimating the gains without taking into -consideration the cost or losses at all; and there are those, no doubt, -who will attempt to find fault with the account which I have drawn up -between California and the United States. Though that account is in the -main correct, I admit that slight errors may here and there exist; for, -as I remarked at the outset, the debits and credits are so numerous, and -of such an intricate nature, that it would be impossible to arrive at -the exact amounts without the greatest research and elaboration. If I -have succeeded in undeceiving those who have hereto<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_31">{31}</a></span>fore regarded -California as an unincumbered God-send, my object has been attained. I -have endeavored to show that, though there has been a great deal of gold -obtained in the country, it is not all clear gain, and that -notwithstanding there are large deposits of pure metal, there are also -huge masses of dross. Shallow enthusiasts have asserted that the United -States would have become bankrupt two or three years ago, had it not -been for the discovery of gold in California. A more preposterous -opinion was never entertained. Equally as much wisdom might be found in -the assertion that Great Britain would have been sold by the sheriff, if -gold had not been discovered in Australia. As a further proof of the -beggarly condition of the country, it may not be amiss to remark that, -during the last session of Congress, the general government appropriated -upwards of four millions of dollars for the relief and benefit of -California; and her senators and representatives are still clamoring for -additional favors.</p> - -<p>For the benefit of the reader, and in confirmation of statements made in -this chapter relative to the past and present of California, I give the -following extract from the <i>Louisville Journal</i>, to which my attention -has been called since the foregoing calculations and statistics were -prepared.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_32">{32}</a></span></p> - -<p class="c">COST OF CALIFORNIA GOLD.</p> - -<p>“For the information of those persons who believe that the United States -thus far have been benefited by the discovery of gold in California, we -propose to submit a few remarks and calculations.</p> - -<p>“After the close of the Mexican war and the cession by treaty to us of -Upper California, the world was astonished by the announcement, toward -the close of 1848 or the beginning of 1849, that immense deposits of -gold had been discovered in that country. As soon as the truth of this -report was established, vast numbers of persons, young and old, flocked -to that country. There was a perfect stampede of people from every State -in the Union. Property was sacrificed to raise money with which to reach -this Eldorado, where fortunes for all were supposed to be awaiting the -mere effort to gather them. The first injurious effect on the country -was the sudden withdrawal of so much labor from the channels of -production; it was mainly, too, that description most needed here—that -is, agricultural labor.</p> - -<p>“We are not in possession of the statistics requisite to determine with -exactness the number of persons who have been taken from the old States -and have gone to California. The population of that State now exceeds -two hundred thousand. But as there is a constant stream of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_33">{33}</a></span> people -always <i>in transitu</i>, either going to or leaving that country, the -number of people withdrawn from the business of productive labor largely -exceeds the population of that State. It is not our purpose to -over-estimate the amount of labor that has been withdrawn from the old -States, but we feel satisfied that it will be under rather than over the -mark to say that from 1849 to 1854, each year inclusive, there has been -an average of 150,000 persons who have been during that time either in -California or on their way going or returning. The time is six years for -150,000 persons, or one year for 900,000 persons.</p> - -<p>“Now, if we estimate the average value of this labor at $25 per month -each, or $300 per year, we have ($270,000,000) two hundred and seventy -millions of dollars as the value of the labor taken from the eastern -side of the Rocky Mountains and placed on its western side. In addition -to this, it cost on an average $200 per head as the expenses of the -removal from one country to the other. This makes ($180,000,000) one -hundred and eighty millions of dollars as the cost of removal. The sums -together make the sum total of ($450,000,000) four hundred and fifty -millions of dollars drained from the eastern side of the United States. -To ascertain the amount of the gold obtained from that country, we -propose to take the gold coinage of the mint. This coinage was in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_34">{34}</a></span>—</p> - -<table> -<tr><td>1849</td><td class="rtb">$ 9,007,761</td></tr> -<tr><td>1850</td><td class="rtb">31,981,738</td></tr> -<tr><td>1851</td><td class="rtb">62,614,492</td></tr> -<tr><td>1852</td><td class="rtb">56,846,187</td></tr> -<tr><td>1853</td><td class="rtb">46,998,945</td></tr> -<tr><td>1854, estimated</td><td class="rtb">42,000,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">Total coinage</td><td class="rtbt">$249,349,123</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>“As these figures make the sum total of <i>all</i> the gold coined at the -mint, and a portion of it is known to have been obtained from other -sources than California, the credit will rather be in excess than too -small; but still we propose to add to this amount twenty millions more -as an allowance for unminted gold sold to workers in jewelry and plate -and which has been consumed in the arts. The statement will then stand -thus:</p> - -<table> -<tr><td class="c"><span class="smcap">California</span>, Dr.</td><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td>To labor and outfits</td><td class="rtb">$ 450,000,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Credit by product of gold coin and nature</td><td class="rtb">269,349,223</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">Dr. balance</td><td class="rtbt">$ 180,650,877</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>“<i>This shows that there is a balance due us in lost labor and capital of -over one hundred and eighty millions of dollars.</i></p> - -<p>“So far as California is concerned, it is probable that this deficiency -is replaced there by the value of property, real and personal, which the -labor taken from this region of country has produced there.</p> - -<p>“The injurious effect of this vast emigration has been felt in the undue -stimulus it has given to the prices of produce, induced by diminished -production and increased demand.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_35">{35}</a></span></p> - -<p>“Another bad effect of this gold crop has been the influence it has -exerted in stimulating excessive importations of foreign goods, In the -last six years the imports will exceed the exports three hundred and -three millions of dollars. Commencing in 1849 with an import trade of -only seven millions of nominal balance against this country, it rapidly -increased, until, in each of the past two years, it has exceeded sixty -millions of dollars.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_36">{36}</a></span>”</p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">SOCIETY IN CALIFORNIA.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Having</span> looked into the financial condition of California, let us now -briefly consider the moral and religious state of its society, We know -that we are undertaking an ungrateful and painful task—that we shall -awaken the animosity of those who have an interest in enticing settlers -to this golden region—that we shall provoke contradiction, and probably -excite controversy; but we beseech Heaven to pardon us for speaking the -truth, and challenge our antagonists to disprove our statements.</p> - -<p>We cannot, indeed, pretend to disclose all the terrible iniquity of that -society in the compass of a single chapter—the theme is too extensive, -the facts too revolting. It requires space to unfold the scroll which -records such damning facts—it needs time for the mind to become -sufficiently reconciled to the hideous details, to be able to listen to -them without impatience or disgust. We can, at present, do no more than -open the way for a fuller exposition of the subject in subsequent -chapters. Suffice it to say that we know of no country in which there is -so much<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_37">{37}</a></span> corruption, villainy, outlawry, intemperance, licentiousness, -and every variety of crime, folly and meanness. Words fail us to express -the shameful depravity and unexampled turpitude of California society.</p> - -<p>How much of this is attributable to the metal which attracts the -population, we leave others to determine. One thing, however, is -certain; mining districts do not generally enjoy a very enviable -reputation in any part of the world. Gold, especially, is thought to be -so easily accessible, and the return of the miner’s labor is so -immediately visible, that it has ever attracted the most unthrifty and -dissolute. Men who could not be induced to work at any thing else, will -spend days and weeks delving for the precious bane, hoping against hope, -and laboring with an eager energy which nothing else can excite, and -almost any thing else would more surely reward. Hence, the immediate -neighborhood of a gold-mine is too liable to be a sink for all the -idleness and depravity of the surrounding country. How these evils are -multiplied by the absence of individual proprietorship in the land, and -by the remoteness of a mining district from the beneficial restraints of -public opinion, any one who gives a moment’s consideration to the -subject will perceive.</p> - -<p>The exclusive devotion of labor to this one pursuit is another cause of -increased laxity of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_38">{38}</a></span> morals. In the Atlantic States, gold-mining is only -a branch of industry, and not a very important one, compared with the -other pursuits of the population; but in California it is the chief and -almost the only occupation of the inhabitants of the mining districts; -so that while, in the former place, the general virtue of the people -keeps in check the particular vices of the miner, in the latter, the -good intentions of the few are overruled and stifled by the vices of the -many.</p> - -<p>We must not, however, commit the mistake of supposing that all the -depravity of California is attributable to the nature of its industrial -pursuits. This is but one of the elements which assist in producing the -deplorable state of affairs under consideration. There are others which -spring from the character of the people, and the circumstances which -have brought them together.</p> - -<p>It must be borne in mind that all the adventurers to this country have -come for the express purpose of making money, and that to this end every -other consideration is sacrificed. They have come to “put money in their -purses,” and as a large majority of them are of a class who are rarely -troubled by any qualms of conscience, they are determined to do it at -all hazards. Mammon is their god, and they will worship him.</p> - -<p>If it be deemed desirable to make further in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_39">{39}</a></span>quiries into this state of -things, it is only necessary to philosophize a little upon the physical -structure of society. A single glance at it will suffice to convince the -most superficial observer that its ingredients cannot be compounded into -a harmonious, perfect and complete whole. Will a panther from America, a -bear from Europe, a tiger from Asia, and a lion from Africa, organize in -peace and good feeling around the body of a fresh slain deer? If not, -will the Americans, English, French, Germans, Chinese, Indians, Negroes, -and half-breeds, greet each other cordially over a gold mine? These are -problems which those who have leisure may solve as their reason -dictates. In the present case, it is more my province to relate the -condition of things, than to account for their existence; yet, in -preparing statements upon a variety of intricate subjects, owing -sometimes to the difficulty of making one’s self understood, it is both -consistent and proper that, now and then, a few remarks in the way of -explanation should be given.</p> - -<p>Another very important cause of this wild excitement, degeneracy, -dissipation, and deplorable condition of affairs, may be found in the -disproportion of the sexes—in the scarcity of women. At present, there -is only about one woman to every ten or twelve men, and the result is -what might be expected. The women are persecuted<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_40">{40}</a></span> by the insulting -attentions of the men, and too often fall victims to the arts of their -seducers. Nowhere is the sanctity of the domestic hearth so ruthlessly -violated as in California. For proof of this, we need look no further -than the records of the courts of San Francisco, which show that, in the -course of a single week, no less than ten divorces had been granted, -while, during the same time, only two marriages had been solemnized!</p> - -<p>Not long since, an English gentleman, of whom myself and others had -purchased some real estate in this city, came to me, requesting that, -inasmuch as his wife had left him the day before, we would not let her -have any money on his account. After finishing his business -instructions, he gave us the following history. Listen to it. Said he: -“Four years ago, myself and wife, and six other men with their wives, -came together in one vessel to this country. Shortly after our arrival, -family feuds and jealousies became rife in the domestic circle of one of -the parties. The man and his wife separated. Soon their example was -followed by another couple, and another, and so on, until all the -marriage ties of our company were broken, except those that happily -existed between myself and wife. Left alone thus, and having been true -to each other so long, and through so many opposing circumstances, I -cherished the hope<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_41">{41}</a></span> that we might remain together, and be true to the -end. But, alas! my fond thoughts and anticipations have proved a sickly -dream. My hopes have been blasted, my happiness wrecked, and my children -disgraced and deserted. My wife, whom I loved and held dearer than all -else on earth, the partner of my life, has been basely seduced. The last -link that bound the remnant of our seven families together has been -severed, and the consequence is, we are a disbanded and disreputable -people. Cursed be the day and the incentive that started me to this -damnable country!” These were his own words, almost verbatim; and he -uttered them as if partly speaking to himself, and partly addressing me.</p> - -<p>The total disregard of the marriage tie by the majority of the men of -California puts the husband, who is foolish enough to take his wife with -him to that county, in a painful and embarrassing position. Should the -wife be pretty, she is the more liable to the persecution of attentions -which will shock her if she be virtuous, and flatter her into sin if she -is not. She is surrounded at once by hosts of men, who spare neither -money, time, nor art to win her affections from her husband. What wonder -if they often succeed?</p> - -<p>Female virtue or chastity, in the conventional sense of the word, is -known to every one, who is familiar with the internal history of -society, to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_42">{42}</a></span> be a very complex idea. There are women who are chaste only -for want of the opportunity to be otherwise. There are others who are -kept chaste by the force of public opinion, the dread of exposure, and -the general fear of consequences; while a third class preserve their -persons untainted by an innate purity of soul, which shrinks -instinctively from all indelicacy, and feels contaminated by an unclean -thought, and degraded by a lustful look. It is not our business to -inquire into the relative proportion of women embraced in these three -classes. It is enough to know that they exist, to appreciate the effect -which the society of California will exert upon them.</p> - -<p>As for the first class, it is not necessary to speak of them. They -fulfil their shameful destiny every where, and California only ripens -their depravity a little earlier. It is the second class who suffer -chiefly from the peculiar moral atmosphere of the land of gold. In the -Atlantic States, hedged in by a healthy public opinion, guarded by -jealous laws, flattered into chastity by the respectful attentions which -that virtue ever commands, they might retain to their dying day that -physical purity which satisfies the great majority of husbands. In -California, however, these restraints are all removed. Public opinion -arrays itself on the side of vice; the laws are powerless to punish the -sins of impu<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_43">{43}</a></span>rity; and all the attentions the women receive are based -upon the hope of their ultimate fall. How are such women to resist? Cut -loose at once from all those restraints which kept them in the right -way, will they not dart off into the devious paths of error and of sin? -It is impossible that it should be otherwise; and the man who would keep -faithful to himself a wife of this type in California, must have wealth -enough to gratify her most extravagant whims, time to devote exclusively -to watching her, eyes keener than those of Argus, and cunning sharper -than that of Vidocq.</p> - -<p>The third class—of whom, I regret to say, I have met with but few in -the Eureka State—have also peculiar trials to undergo. Society in that -country is a reproduction, on a large scale, of the morals of the courts -of Charles II of England and Louis XV of France. Vice only is esteemed -and lauded, virtue is treated as an idle dream, an insulting pretence of -superiority, or a stupid folly beneath the notice of men of sense. -People do not believe in it—they scorn it, they insult it; they -consider it a mere avaricious attempt to dispose of venal charms above -their market value, so that the chaste woman has not only to suffer the -persecution of insulting proposals, but the doubt of that virtue which -repels her pursuers, and the sneers and scandal of a depraved and -debased community.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_44">{44}</a></span></p> - -<p>Many women, of conceded respectability in California, seem to have come -out there for the exclusive purpose of selling their charms to the -highest bidder. Others, of more honest hearts, have fallen victims to -the peculiar seductions of the place, but I must be allowed to pay a -tribute to the sex, even in this its degenerate condition. Paradoxical -as the statement may sound, it is rigorously true that these very women -have improved the morals of the community. Any one who, like myself, has -had the opportunity of seeing California before and after the advent of -these women, must have been struck with the decided improvement in -society since their arrival. They have undoubtedly banished much -barbarism, softened many hard hearts, and given a gentleness to the men -which they did not possess before. What, then, might we not expect from -an influx of the chaste wives and tender mothers that bless our other -sea-board?<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_45">{45}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">SAN FRANCISCO.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">We</span> will now pay our respects to the occidental metropolis of the United -States, sometimes honored with the title of the Queen City of the -Pacific.</p> - -<p>It has not been more truthfully remarked that Paris is France, than that -San Francisco is California. This is the grand mart in which all the -travel, news, capital, business, and, in fact, every species of interest -or employment that belongs to the State is concentrated—the nucleus -around which every plan and project must first be developed before it -can receive life, vigor, system and order. It is the fountain-head of -all the tributaries of trade and traffic that flow through the -State—the great trestle-board or chart of operations to which all the -journeymen repair for designs and instructions to pursue their labors. -It is the supreme tribunal and regulator of affairs—the heart, the -life, and the stay of the State. Contrary to the general rule, in this -case the city supports the country, instead of the country nurturing and -sustaining the city; and this will continue to be the case so long as -the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_46">{46}</a></span> country is under the necessity of importing whatever she requires -for use. Until she becomes the producer of the bulk or major part of -that which she consumes, San Francisco will retain this ascendency. -Every important movement, whether of a public, private, political or -commercial character, receives its impetus from this point; and owing to -its advantageous geographical position, and the facilities and -accommodation offered for shipping, I think it may be safely said that -San Francisco will be a great city, although California can never become -a great State.</p> - -<p>In order to particularize a little, and to furnish the reader with a -more systematic idea of the city, we will imagine ourselves in a vessel, -some distance at sea, approaching the coast of California in about the -lat. of 37° 45´ N. and lon. 122° 25´ W. This will bring us to the Golden -Gate, the entrance to the harbor. This entrance is a narrow outlet, -through which at least seven-eighths of the entire waters of the State -find their way into the Pacific ocean. It can be so thoroughly fortified -that no maritime expedition could ever force its way through it.</p> - -<p>Passing through the Gate, we enter the bay, and find it to be one of the -largest and finest in the world, dotted with several small islands, and -abounding in excellent fish of every variety. Soon we arrive at Long -Wharf; the steamer is run alongside, and we are in the Eldorado of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_47">{47}</a></span> -modern times. Around us we behold an innumerable crowd of eager -lookers-on, who have come down from the city to meet their wives, -lovers, fathers, mothers, sisters, or brothers, as the case may be. The -crowd is probably one of the most motley and heterogeneous that ever -occupied space. It is composed of specimens of humanity from almost -every clime and nation upon the habitable globe. Citizens from every -State in the Union, North and South, Americans, French, English, Irish, -Scotch, Germans, Dutch, Danes, Swedes, Spaniards, Portuguese, Italians, -Russians, Poles, Greeks, Chinese, Japanese, Hindoos, Sandwich Islanders, -New Zealanders, Indians, Africans, and hybrids—all stand before us. We -see all grades and conditions, all ages and sexes, all colors and -costumes, in short, a complete human menagerie.</p> - -<p>By the sides of the wharves, and anchored in different parts of the -commodious and noble bay, we see magnificent ships, barks and brigs from -every nation of commercial note. But of all these majestic palaces of -the deep, none are equal in beauty of design and finish, in grace, -symmetry and elegance, or in excellence of quality, to our own American -clippers. Thinking that it might be of interest to some of my readers, -as a specimen of American marine or naval nomenclature, I have taken the -pains to collect a majority of the names of these oaken chariots of old<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_48">{48}</a></span> -Neptune that have from time to time entered the Golden Gate, freighted -with merchandise from Atlantic ports. Some of the names are truly -appropriate and poetic. Ten of them, as will be seen, have, as a prefix, -the word “Golden.” I have arranged them in the subjoined list in -alphabetical order:</p> - -<p class="nind1"> -Antelope,<br> -Archer,<br> -Atalanta,<br> -Aurora,<br> -Bald Eagle,<br> -Belle of Baltimore,<br> -Celestial,<br> -Challenge,<br> -Champion,<br> -Climax,<br> -Comet,<br> -Contest,<br> -Courser,<br> -Dancing Feather,<br> -Dashing Wave,<br> -Dauntless,<br> -Defiance,<br> -Don Quixotte,<br> -Eclipse,<br> -Empress of the Seas,<br> -Eureka,<br> -Fearless,<br> -Flying Arrow,<br> -Flying Childers,<br> -Flying Cloud,<br> -Flying Dragon,<br> -Flying Dutchman,<br> -Flying Eagle,<br> -Flying Fish,<br> -Game Cock,<br> -Gazelle,<br> -Gem of the Ocean,<br> -Golden Age,<br> -Golden City,<br> -Golden Eagle,<br> -Golden Fleece,<br> -Golden Gate,<br> -Golden Light,<br> -Golden Racer,<br> -Golden Rule,<br> -Golden State,<br> -Golden West,<br> -Gray Eagle,<br> -Gray Feather,<br> -Gray Hound,<br> -Herald of the Morning,<br> -Highflyer,<br> -Hornet,<br> -Honqua,<br> -Hurricane,<br> -Ino,<br> -Invincible,<br> -John Gilpin,<br> -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_49">{49}</a></span>King Fisher,<br> -Mystery,<br> -National Eagle,<br> -Neptune’s Car,<br> -Northern Crown,<br> -Ocean Pearl,<br> -Ocean Spray,<br> -Olive Branch,<br> -Onward,<br> -Oriental,<br> -Orion,<br> -Pampero,<br> -Peerless,<br> -Phantom,<br> -Queen of Clippers,<br> -Queen of the Pacific,<br> -Queen of the Seas,<br> -Rattler,<br> -Raven,<br> -Red Rover,<br> -Reindeer,<br> -Ring Leader,<br> -Rip Van Winkle,<br> -Rover’s Bride,<br> -Sea Serpent,<br> -Seaman’s Bride,<br> -Shooting Star,<br> -Simoon,<br> -Light Foot,<br> -Living Age,<br> -Mandarin,<br> -Matchless,<br> -Messenger,<br> -Meteor,<br> -Monsoon,<br> -Morning Light,<br> -Mountain Wave,<br> -Sirocco,<br> -Skylark,<br> -Snowsquall,<br> -Southern Cross,<br> -Spitfire,<br> -Stag Hound,<br> -Storm King,<br> -Sun Beam,<br> -Surprise,<br> -Sword Fish,<br> -Siren,<br> -Tam O’Shanter,<br> -Telegraph,<br> -Tinqua,<br> -Tornado,<br> -Trade Wind,<br> -Typhoon,<br> -Viking,<br> -Waterwitch,<br> -Western Star,<br> -Westward Ho!<br> -West Wind,<br> -Whirlwind,<br> -White Squall,<br> -White Swallow,<br> -Wide Awake,<br> -Wild Duck,<br> -Wild Pigeon,<br> -Wild Ranger,<br> -Winged Racer,<br> -Wings of the Morning,<br> -Witch of the Wave,<br> -Witchcraft,<br> -Wizard,<br> -Zoe.<br> -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_50">{50}</a></span></p> - -<p>Leaving the vicinity of the shipping, we wend our way towards the heart -of the city. As we proceed, we observe many objects of interest that -deserve more attention than we can bestow upon them at this time.</p> - -<p>Degradation, profligacy and vice confront us at every step. Men are -passing to and fro with haggard visages and heads declined, muttering to -themselves, and looking as hungry and ferocious as the prowling beasts -of an Asiatic jungle. Before us on either side, we see a group of boys, -clad in slouched hats, dirty shirts, ragged pants, and shabby shoes, -without socks, who have no regular business. Sometimes they sell -newspapers in the morning, and in the middle of the day engage in -various occupations, as, for instance, in peddling fruits, nuts and -toys. At this time several of them seem to have met by chance, and they -have stopped to discuss the times and the progress of events. If we were -near enough, we should probably hear the right hand party criticising -Madame Anna Thillon’s last performance of the opera of La Somnambula, or -of the Daughter of the Regiment; and those on the left giving their -opinions upon the merits of Madame Anna Bishop’s last oratorio or ballad -concert. After disposing of all the actors and actresses in music, -opera, pantomime, tragedy and comedy, or, perhaps, after bragging of the -successes of certain amours or other youthful de<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_51">{51}</a></span>pravities, they rally -together, and entering the nearest groggery, one calls for a brandy -smash, another for a whiskey punch, a third for a gin cocktail, and so -on, until all are served. Then, bowing to each other, they drink to the -prosperity of Young America, to which school they all belong; and -dashing their glasses upon the counter with as hideous and vociferous -anathemas as ever passed the lips of an East India pirate, they -separate, segar in mouth, and return to their respective avocations. Not -unfrequently these vicious youths repeat their potations so often that -they become thoroughly inebriated, and may be seen quarreling, fighting, -and lying about the streets like hardened and inveterate topers.</p> - -<p>The bales and stacks of hay and straw piled upon some of the wharves, -deserve a passing glance, since they form the sleeping apartments of -dozens of penniless vagabonds who are always wandering about the city in -idleness and misery, and have no other place to rest, no bed to sleep -upon, except these out-door packages of provender, into which they creep -for shelter and slumber during the long hours of the night.</p> - -<p>Continuing our perambulations in a westerly direction, we find ourselves -at the foot of Commercial street, which runs almost due east and west -through the centre of the city. This street we will pass up, paying -attention as we proceed<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_52">{52}</a></span> to some of the irregularities and peculiarities -which distinguish San Francisco from other cities, and California from -other countries. The first houses we see are from one to two stories in -height, and are built of red wood, a very light combustible kind of -timber that resembles the spruce or cedar. Oregon produces nearly all -the building materials out of which these and most other houses and -tenements in California are constructed; and I have been credibly -informed that the red wood and fir trees in that territory grow from two -hundred and fifty to three hundred feet high, and proportionally thick. -In some of the remote and comparatively inaccessible parts of California -these varieties of timber are also found, and are said to acquire the -same gigantic bulk.</p> - -<p>Most of the buildings in this part of the street are tenanted by those -mysterious and avaricious characters whose arrival in this, as well as -in other places, is always as inexplicable as that of the flies in -summer, and whose exit is equally as unceremonious as that of the -swallows in winter—no one knowing whence they came or whither they -go—the Jews, those nomades of civilization. These erratic and -money-loving descendants of the ancient biblical patriarchs seem to -follow in the wake of all adventurous Christians and gentiles who wear -those convenient articles of apparel denominated ready-made clothes. -Preferring<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_53">{53}</a></span> to travel the way after it is once opened, they are seldom -known as the pioneers of a new country; and claiming to be conservative -in their principles and opposed to aggression, they profess -disinclination to encroach upon foreign territory; but after the battles -are fought with the forest, the wild beasts, or the biped enemy, and -peace and security established, they are ever ready to come in and -partake of whatever advantages may have been attained. So it has been in -California, so it is yet, and so it will always be here and every where -else, with these homeless and migratory people.</p> - -<p>They do not employ any of their time or means in advancing the permanent -and substantial interests of the country. None of them engage in any -sort of manual labor, except, perhaps, that which is of the most trivial -and unmanly nature, such, for instance, as the manufacturing of jewelry -and haberdashery. Mining, the cultivation of the soil, in a word, any -occupation that requires exposure to the weather, is too fatiguing and -intolerable for them. The law requiring man to get bread by the sweat of -his brow, is an injunction with which they refuse to comply. It is a tax -they are unwilling to pay—an enigma beyond their comprehension—they -will not sweat. Dealing in ready-made clothing appears to be their -peculiar forte; and this is about the only thing they follow in San -Francisco—as I think<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_54">{54}</a></span> it may be said to be their principal pursuit -wherever they go, when they have not the means to set themselves up as -pawn-brokers or note-shavers.</p> - -<p>We observe that they have presumptuously usurped or occupied from four -to six feet of the way on either side of the street, by building little -wooden racks and projections in front of their stores, for the purpose -of making a more conspicuous display of their marketable vestments in -dry weather. In any other place than California such unjust -appropriations of the streets of a city would not be tolerated; but -here, where usurpation, illegality and confusion reign supreme, no -attention is paid to it.</p> - -<p>It has ever been the misfortune of the Jew to undergo the scorn and -contumely of self-styled Christians, and indeed of all nations. Since -the destruction of his ancient capital by the Romans, he has been an -outcast in the world, the standing butt of the Gentile’s scoffs. -California is no exception to this general rule. But little respect is -shown him there; and he is continually jeered by having applied to him -such annoying epithets as Christ-killer, ham-hater and anti-pork-eater. -But few of them have signs over their doors, as most men have who -transact business upon their honor and reputation. Some of them buy and -sell under assumed names; but in general their business is anonymously -conducted. Bidding<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_55">{55}</a></span> adieu to the cosmopolitan issue of Abraham, Isaac -and Jacob, and leaving them in the peaceable possession and enjoyment of -their “too or tree towsand monnies,” we will take a glance at matters of -more importance.</p> - -<p>Higher up the street we come to a better class of buildings than the -miserable little shops we have just left, and we get a fair view of the -permanent and attractive architecture of San Francisco—the brick and -stone structures. Many of these buildings are beautifully designed and -symmetrically proportioned, and have fire-proof walls varying from -sixteen to twenty-four inches in thickness. They are usually from two to -four stories in height. One hotel is five stories high, being the -tallest house in the State.</p> - -<p>Probably no city in this country can boast of buildings so substantial -and thoroughly fire-proof as those of San Francisco. Besides making the -walls very thick, every care is taken to have the doors, window-shutters -and roofs equally stout and incombustible; nor is this precaution at all -surprising, when it is remembered that this city alone has lost more -than twenty-five millions of dollars by fire.</p> - -<p>Owing to the unusual dryness of the weather, the prevalence of winds in -summer, and the inadequate supply of water possessed by the city, all -combustible matter is rendered so inflammable that it is quite -impossible to keep it from<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_56">{56}</a></span> burning after fire is once communicated; -hence the necessity of using brick and stone instead of wood. The amount -of money invested in this durable kind of improvement, as will be seen -by reference to the following statistics which I borrow from the Herald, -is something over thirteen and a half millions of dollars—the number of -buildings being six hundred and thirty-eight:</p> - -<table> -<tr><td> </td><td>No. of buildings.</td><td>Value.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Mason street</td><td class="rtb">4</td><td class="rtb">$ 35,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Powell street</td><td class="rtb">13</td><td class="rtb">156,500</td></tr> -<tr><td>Stockton street</td><td class="rtb">35</td><td class="rtb">423,500</td></tr> -<tr><td>Dupont street</td><td class="rtb">37</td><td class="rtb">450,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Kearny street</td><td class="rtb">23</td><td class="rtb">535,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Montgomery street</td><td class="rtb">55</td><td class="rtb">3,500,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sansome street</td><td class="rtb">46</td><td class="rtb">1,036,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Battery street</td><td class="rtb">63</td><td class="rtb">1,106,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Front street</td><td class="rtb">39</td><td class="rtb">612,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Davis street</td><td class="rtb">3</td><td class="rtb">85,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Geary street</td><td class="rtb">2</td><td class="rtb">16,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sutter street</td><td class="rtb">3</td><td class="rtb">30,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Bush street</td><td class="rtb">5</td><td class="rtb">144,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Pine street</td><td class="rtb">9</td><td class="rtb">144,500</td></tr> -<tr><td>California street</td><td class="rtb">47</td><td class="rtb">1,230,750</td></tr> -<tr><td>Sacramento street</td><td class="rtb">52</td><td class="rtb">778,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Commercial street</td><td class="rtb">21</td><td class="rtb">462,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Clay street</td><td class="rtb">28</td><td class="rtb">593,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Merchant street</td><td class="rtb">15</td><td class="rtb">348,500</td></tr> -<tr><td>Washington street</td><td class="rtb">37</td><td class="rtb">608,500</td></tr> -<tr><td>Jackson street</td><td class="rtb">19</td><td class="rtb">308,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Pacific street</td><td class="rtb">7</td><td class="rtb">107,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Broadway</td><td class="rtb">10</td><td class="rtb">145,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Vallejo street</td><td class="rtb">3</td><td class="rtb">36,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Green street</td><td class="rtb">2</td><td class="rtb">16,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Union street</td><td class="rtb">6</td><td class="rtb">92,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Greenwich street</td><td class="rtb">3</td><td class="rtb">35,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Lombard street</td><td class="rtb">2</td><td class="rtb">12,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Chestnut street</td><td class="rtb">2</td><td class="rtb">20,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Francisco street</td><td class="rtb">1</td><td class="rtb">36,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Market street</td><td class="rtb">2</td><td class="rtb">40,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>First street</td><td class="rtb">5</td><td class="rtb">76,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Brannan street</td><td class="rtb">10</td><td class="rtb">50,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Third street</td><td class="rtb">4</td><td class="rtb">44,500</td></tr> -<tr><td>Miscellaneous</td><td class="rtb">55</td><td class="rtb">307,000</td></tr> -<tr><td class="c">Total</td><td class="rtbt">638</td><td class="rtbt">$13,618,750</td></tr> -</table> - -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_57">{57}</a></span> - -<p>It is a remarkable fact, however, that less than half of these -improvements have been made with California gold. Ask the proprietors -where they got the money which they have expended in the erection of -these buildings, and they will tell you it came from the Atlantic States -and from Europe. Those who occupy them, the merchants and business men -from New York, London, Paris, Hamburg, Bremen, and other places, will -testify to this fact. California gold is to the world much what Southern -cotton is to the North; it is not retained at home to supply the wants -of the people, to afford them employment, to enrich or embellish the -country, but is passed into distant hands, and afterwards brought back -at a premium. Thus the producers are continually drained, and the -commonwealth necessarily impoverished by this unthrifty management.</p> - -<p>These buildings are erected upon the most eligible and convenient sites, -and form what is properly termed the business portion of the -city—covering, probably, about one-sixth of its su<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_58">{58}</a></span>perficies. Almost -all of the residences or private dwellings are built of wood, and are -very frail and inelegant. It is the intention, however, of a large -number of the citizens to take down the wood and substitute brick or -stone, as soon as they get able, if that is ever to be the case.</p> - -<p>To acquaint ourselves with the character of the speculators and business -men in San Francisco would be a curious and interesting task. They are -certainly the shrewdest rascals in the world, and a straight-forward, -honest man, who acts upon principle and adheres to a legitimate system -of dealing, can no more cope with them than he can fly. But -notwithstanding their shrewdness, and I might say, in some instances, -their excellent business qualifications, they exhibit less method and -system in their transactions than any class of traders I ever saw. -Whatever they do is done in a helter-skelter, topsy-turvy sort of way, -as if they had just fallen out of their element, and were scrambling to -get back again. They never take time to do a thing well, but are always -going and coming, or bustling about in such a manner, that one would -suppose they were making preparations for some calamitous emergency, -rather than attending to the every day routine of an established -occupation.</p> - -<p>This restless disposition is characteristic of the inhabitants of every -part of the State; the mind seems all the time to be intently engaged -upon<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_59">{59}</a></span> something in another place, and the body is always pushing forward -to overtake it.</p> - -<p>Pursuing this digression a little further, it may be remarked of San -Francisco that, although she is indebted to California for her -existence, she is no longer dependent upon the State for her support. -San Francisco can now claim to be as much the city of the Pacific, or of -the world, as of California. The commercial advantages she enjoys, her -inviting harbor and central position, are far superior in importance to -any benefit she is likely to receive from the interior. The profits she -will gain from the whale-fishing fleet of the North Pacific, and from -her trade with the islands of the South Pacific, with China, Oregon and -Russian America, will place her in a more prominent and enviable -position than it is possible for the State ever to attain.</p> - -<p>Returning to our subject, we find ourselves as far advanced on our way -as Montgomery street. The course of this street lies north and south -through the middle of the most beautiful and wealthy part of the city; -it is, therefore, both the Broadway and the Wall street of San -Francisco. Every phase and trait of life and character is cognizable -here. The dramatist who would study human nature here, would have an -opportunity of striking out something new, instead of repeating the old -creations of his predecessors, for surely never was there so varied a -page spread out before the eyes of man.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_60">{60}</a></span></p> - -<p>While in this vicinity, we may observe men, who in the Atlantic States -bore unblemished reputations for probity and honor, sinking into the -lowest depths of shame and degradation. Others, whose moral characters -are unobjectionable, have been pecuniarily unfortunate, and are driven -to the necessity of engaging in the most menial and humiliating -employments. Among the latter class, I might mention lawyers, who, to -save themselves from the severe pangs of actual want, have been -compelled to fish around the wharves for crabs, and to enlist themselves -in the petty traffic of shrimps and tomcods. Ministers and physicians -fare no better. In a certain hotel in this city, not long since, a -lawyer was employed as a regular runner; in another, adjacent to it, a -physician was engaged to pare potatoes and wash dishes; while in a -neighboring restaurant, a preacher was hired to wait upon the customers -and clean off the tables. Now, does not every reasonable man know that -these professional men did not voluntarily follow these inferior -pursuits? It was not a matter of choice with them. They could not help -themselves; they were out of money, out of employment, destitute of -friends, and were compelled to take advantage of the first opportunity -that offered of earning their daily bread. Half the lowest and most -servile situations or offices in this and other cities in the State are -filled, often without any other remuneration,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_61">{61}</a></span> than board and lodging, -by these unlucky and depressed adventurers.</p> - -<p>New as the country is, the dandy, that exquisite flower of a finished -civilization, is not unknown. He may be seen at any time sunning his -external splendor on the side-walk, and scorning his more useful -cotemporaries as loftily as though, he were promenading Broadway or the -Champs Elysees.</p> - -<p>Together with bankers, stock-jobbers, and other moneyed men, we observe -that the students or disciples of Blackstone, Coke and Story have -selected this street for their offices. Considering the heterogeneous -composition of society in this country, the loose and unsystematic -transactions of every-day business, and the unsettled state of public -affairs, it will be readily perceived that there is an incessant -clashing of feeling and interest, and that the result is a great deal of -strife and litigation. Disputes and difficulties relative to real -property, and spurious or imaginary claims, keep the court dockets -continually crowded; and the lawyers have rich and abundant -opportunities for the exercise of their forensic abilities.</p> - -<p>For the first two or three years after the settlement of California by -the Americans, all attempts to organize or establish the civil law -proved fruitless; and during this anarchical period no redress could be -had, except by an appeal<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_62">{62}</a></span> to lynch-law, in which case death was sure to -be the fate of the criminal. Then the country had no practitioners of -law, except those whose talents ranked far below mediocrity; but now the -San Francisco bar can boast of some of the most profound and eminent -jurists in the Union. It is probable that they have been more fortunate -in accumulating wealth, than any other class of men. Much of their -business has been of such a nature that they could mould it almost -exclusively to their own interest, provided they felt inclined to take -such an advantage of their clients; and every body knows it would be a -very unlawful thing in a lawyer to neglect himself. They are the largest -owners of real estate in the city, and there is no species of property -that yields so great a profit as this, if properly managed.</p> - -<p>Land titles are now as much contested as they ever were, there being in -some instances as many as half a dozen claimants to a single lot. The -squatters cause most of these troubles. Generally poor, and homeless, -they settle upon any vacant or unoccupied piece of ground that suits -them; and as there is a numerous body linked together for mutual support -and protection, it is an extremely difficult matter for the -half-sustained civil authorities to remove them. If the law were -sufficiently forcible—if there were any such thing in California as -sovereign law, these<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_63">{63}</a></span> intruders would be brought to justice, and instead -of the broils and butchery now so common all over the country, peace, -safety and good order would exist. But as it is, no dependence can be -placed upon the administration of justice; and unless a man takes the -law in his own hands, and defends his person and property <i>vi et armis</i>, -he must tamely submit to whatever injury or indignity is offered him. -Sometimes several squatters settle indiscriminately upon a single claim; -and in these cases, feuds, animosities and contentions are sure to -follow; but the difficulties are soon arranged by a recourse to weapons, -it being generally conceded that he is the rightful owner or claimant, -who happens to possess the largest bowie-knife and the truest aim with -rifle or revolver.</p> - -<p>The grog-shops or tippling-houses constitute the last but not the least -prominent feature of Montgomery street that we will notice at the -present time. The devil has certainly met with more than usual success -in establishing so many of these, his recruiting officers, in this -region; for we cannot visit any part of the state or city without -finding them always at our elbow. San Francisco might allot one to every -street corner in the city, or in other words, four to every intersection -of the streets, and still her number would not be exhausted. It is -astonishing what an amount of time, labor and money is misspent<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_64">{64}</a></span> in this -nefarious traffic. Out of the two hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants -in California, from twelve to fifteen thousand are exclusively engaged -in this diabolical, but lucrative business; and, what is worse than all, -nearly one-fourth of the bars are attended by young females, of the most -dissolute and abandoned character, who use every device to entice and -mislead the youthful and unsuspecting. Women being somewhat of a novelty -here, their saloons are always thronged with customers, many being -induced to patronize them merely for the sake of looking at them. What a -base prostitution of their destiny and mission! Woman has come here, not -only to pander to man’s vitiated appetites, but also to create and -foster in him unholier desires, and, if possible, to lead him further -astray than he would have gone without her.</p> - -<p>Lest we should fall in love with one of these sirens, we will not go -near them, but will enter one of the saloons kept by a biped of our own -sex. Across the street is a large and fashionable one, called the Blue -Wing,</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Where politicians most do congregate,<br></span> -<span class="i1">To let their tongues tang arguments of State.”<br></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">Adding ourselves to the number of its inmates, we find the governor of -the State seated by a table, surrounded by judges of the supreme and -superior courts, sipping sherry cobblers, smoking segars, and reveling -in all the delights<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_65">{65}</a></span> of an anticipated debauch. Another group of less -distinction in public affairs, but better known to the proprietor -because of their more frequent and protracted visits, occupy a second -table in the back part of the room, where they are playing cards and -carousing over a general assortment of distilled, fermented and malt -liquors. The proprietor himself is a red-nosed, jolly fellow, of -burgomaster proportions, generally in a good humor, who treats his -victim-patrons with the utmost courtesy and politeness. He is every -man’s man, and always has a smile and a smart saying prepared for the -entertainment of the bystanders. His two clerks, for he is unable to -wait upon all his customers himself, are equally urbane in their -deportment, and may be found at their posts from six o’clock in the -morning till twelve o’clock at night, ready to flavor and tincture mixed -drinks, to prepare hot punches, and to deal out low anecdote to vulgar -idlers. On the shelves and counters are dozens of labeled decanters and -bottles, filled with the choicest liquors and artificial beverages that -the world produces; other articles of similar use and value are also -kept for sale, and stored away in their appropriate places. As a minute -survey of the bill of fare may not be uninteresting, I herewith present -it:<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_66">{66}</a></span>—</p> - -<p class="c">BILL OF FARE OF A CALIFORNIA GROGGERY.</p> - -<p class="c">Bowie Knives and Pistols.</p> - -<p class="nind1"> -Scotch Ale,<br> -English Porter,<br> -American Brandy,<br> -Irish Whiskey,<br> -Holland Gin,<br> -Jamaica Rum,<br> -French Claret,<br> -Spanish Sack,<br> -German Hockamore,<br> -Persian Sherbet,<br> -Portuguese Port,<br> -Brazilian Arrack,<br> -Swiss Absynthe,<br> -East India Acids,<br> -Spirit Stews and Toddies,<br> -Lager Beer,<br> -New Cider,<br> -Soda Waters,<br> -Mineral Drinks,<br> -Ginger Pop,<br> -Usquebaugh,<br> -Sangaree,<br> -Perkin,<br> -Mead,<br> -Metheglin,<br> -Eggnog,<br> -Capilliare,<br> -Kirschwassen,<br> -Cognac,<br> -Rhenish Wine,<br> -Sauterne,<br> -Malaga,<br> -Muscatel,<br> -Burgundy,<br> -Haut Bersæ,<br> -Champagne,<br> -Maraschino,<br> -Tafia,<br> -Negus,<br> -Tog,<br> -Shambro,<br> -Fisca,<br> -Virginia,<br> -Knickerbocker,<br> -Snifter,<br> -Exchange,<br> -Poker,<br> -Agent,<br> -Floater,<br> -I O U,<br> -Smasher,<br> -Curacoa,<br> -Ratafia,<br> -Tokay,<br> -Calcavalla,<br> -Alcohol,<br> -Cordials,<br> -Syrups,<br> -Stingo,<br> -Hot Grog,<br> -Mint Juleps,<br> -Gin Sling,<br> -Brick Tops,<br> -Sherry Cobblers,<br> -Queen Charlottes,<br> -<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_67">{67}</a></span>Mountaineers,<br> -Brandy Smashes,<br> -Whiskey Punch,<br> -Cherry Bounce,<br> -Shamperone,<br> -Drizzles,<br> -Our Own,<br> -Red Light,<br> -Hairs,<br> -Horns,<br> -Whistler,<br> -White Lion,<br> -Settler,<br> -Peach and Honey,<br> -Whiskey Skin,<br> -Old Sea Dog,<br> -Peg and Whistle,<br> -Eye Opener,<br> -Apple Dam,<br> -Flip Flap,<br> -One-eyed Joe,<br> -Cooler,<br> -Cocktails,<br> -Tom and Jerry,<br> -Moral Suasion,<br> -Jewett’s Fancy,<br> -Ne Plus Ultra,<br> -Citronella Jam,<br> -Silver Spout,<br> -Veto,<br> -Deacon,<br> -Ching Ching,<br> -Sergeant,<br> -Stone Wall,<br> -Rooster Tail,<br> -Vox Populi,<br> -Tug and Try,</p> -<p class="c"> -Segars and Tobacco.<br> -</p> - -<p>The annual consumption of beer, wines and liquors in this State exceeds -five millions of gallons, a vast deal of which is retailed at -extraordinarily remunerative rates. All of the first class -establishments, I mean those that deal in good qualities, charge -twenty-five cents for every drink or dram they sell; but an adulterated -article, of which there is always an abundant supply in market, can be -procured at about one half that price. In some of the most popular and -respectable saloons, genuine articles are always kept on hand for the -benefit and accommodation of those who are willing to pay for a -delicious (?) draught. I may not be a competent judge, but this much<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_68">{68}</a></span> I -will say, that I have seen purer liquors, better segars, finer tobacco, -truer guns and pistols, larger dirks and bowie knives, and prettier -courtezans here, than in any other place I have ever visited; and it is -my unbiased opinion that California can and does furnish the best bad -things that are obtainable in America.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_69">{69}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">SAN FRANCISCO—CONTINUED.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">We</span> will now look into Clay street, which intersects Montgomery, and runs -parallel with Commercial. Next to Montgomery, this is the most -fashionable street in the city; the large establishments where retailers -deal in ladies’ and gentlemen’s dress goods being situated upon it. The -side-walks are narrow, and generally crowded to such an excess as to -render it really difficult and tiresome to travel them. To the ladies, -shopping on this street is especially annoying and tedious; for they are -designedly balked or hindered in their course by a set of well-dressed -vagabonds, who promenade the <i>trestoir</i> from morning to night for the -sole purpose of staring in their faces.</p> - -<p>The following little circumstance, which occurred here about a year ago, -will show that, however culpable it may be in those who make a regular -business of gazing intently in ladies’ faces, the act is sometimes -induced by a natural and inoffensive regard for the opposite sex. A very -clever married lady, whose notions and ideas of things were somewhat -akin to those of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_70">{70}</a></span> the Merry Wives of Windsor, espied a gentleman gazing -very earnestly in her face, when she turned to him, notwithstanding they -were both on the street, and asked, “Why do you stare at me so hard, -sir? Have I done you any injury?” “Oh! no, madam,” replied he; “I assure -you you have not harmed me in the least. But pardon me; I have been in -the mines for the last two years, and it has been so long since I saw a -lady, that I must own my admiration of you has compelled me to be -somewhat rude in my scrutiny of your charms.” The lady was satisfied -with the complimentary explanation, and since that time has been more -resigned to her fate, and better contented to endure the steady stare of -the public.</p> - -<p>The gambling-houses cannot be overlooked in a true sketch of life in San -Francisco. One of the largest and most frequented of these, called the -Diana, stands a few doors above us. The building extends, through the -entire block, from Clay to Commercial street, and has a front -proportionate to its depth. The doors, which lead into it from either -street, are kept wide open from nine in the morning till twelve at -night, during which time the hall or saloon is generally filled to -overflowing with lazy men, of little principle, whose chief employment -consists in devising some sinister plans of procuring a livelihood -without work. On one side is a bar,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_71">{71}</a></span> attended by a <i>lady</i>, assisted by -three young white men and two negroes. This is largely patronized by the -occupants of the saloon—one-fifth of them drinking because they have -been lucky, and the other four-fifths drinking because they have been -unlucky. Around the walls are suspended showy paintings and engravings, -some of them of the size of life, representing nude women in every -imaginable posture of obscenity and indecency.</p> - -<p>Seated around numerous tables, covered with cloth or velvet, and -finished expressly for gambling purposes, are some rare specimens of -greedy speculators in the folly of their fellow-men. The proprietor of -the house rents his tables to professional gamblers at a stipulated sum -per month, with the condition that he is to receive a certain per -centage on the net proceeds of their swindling operations. Usually, two -gamblers form a copartnership, hire one table, and station themselves -opposite each other, so that each can understand every manœuvre and -secret sign of the other; and when a good opportunity for cheating or -defrauding presents itself to one of them, the other is always prepared -to divert the attention of the audience or of the interested party from -his partner’s motions. Every possible variety of gaming that can be -accomplished by cards and dice is practiced here; and every false and -dishonest trick is resorted to (often with more than anticipated -success) to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_72">{72}</a></span> fleece ignorant men of their purses. Lying on the top of -each table is a pile of gold and silver coin, denominated the bank, the -size and amount of which, as a matter of course, depend altogether upon -the wealth of the proprietors. I have said “the bank” is composed of -gold and silver coin; it must be one or other, or both of these metals -in some shape—whether in dust, ingots, bullion, or coin; for these -constitute the sole recognized currency of the State, there being no -paper money or bank-notes in circulation.</p> - -<p>At one of the tables we observe two proprietors, as before described. -One of them is a lank, cadaverous fellow, with a repulsive expression of -low cunning, full of hypocrisy and deceit, taciturn in disposition, -unengaging in manners, who was formerly a Baptist preacher in -Connecticut. The other has a vinous, fat, and jolly countenance, is -open-faced, enjoys a joke, is lively, laughs at his partner for being so -melancholy, is affable and courteous to strangers, talks a great deal, -as might be expected, since, before he came to California, he was -considered one of the most promising young lawyers in Mississippi.</p> - -<p>The proprietors of another table are two old gentlemen of “three score -years and ten,” whose white hairs and wrinkled brows would seem to -belong to a more honorable station in life than that assigned them by -destiny. A third table is used by a couple of Spaniards, whose scowling<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_73">{73}</a></span> -brows and treacherous eyes indicate that they are better qualified for -the transaction of infamous and atrocious deeds, than for fair dealing -or magnanimous behaviour. A Jew and Jewess have command of the fourth -table; the fifth is under the direction and management of a French -<i>gentleman</i> and <i>lady</i>; a young American girl and her paramour have -charge of the sixth; while the seventh, eighth, ninth, tenth, and so on, -are presided over by sundry sorts of wicked spirits, unworthy of being -named. Octogenarians, youthful and middle-aged men, married and -unmarried women, boys and girls, white and black, brown and -copper-colored, the quarrelsome and the peaceable, all associate -together; and, at times, as might be expected, fight, maim, and kill -each other with the same indifference with which people generally pursue -their daily occupations.</p> - -<p>I neglected to mention before, that, in some conspicuous point of the -principal houses of this character, there is generally erected a stage -or platform, upon which a company of musicians perform at intervals of a -quarter of an hour. This they are employed to do for the purpose of -enticing unsuspecting strangers and passers-by.</p> - -<p>Like those engaged in the liquor traffic, these gamblers are a public -nuisance, a burden upon society. They do no sort of profitable manual or -mental labor; yet the community grants them a license to abuse the -public, and to debase them<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_74">{74}</a></span>selves. Their occupation being a -discreditable and dishonorable one, it robs them of that degree of -happiness and respectability which naturally belongs to every -industrious and upright man. Like a deadly contagion, they blast and -destroy all with whom they come in contact.</p> - -<p>Thousands of these swindlers live by their expertness in gambling and -tricks of legerdemain. Dissipated, reckless, and restless, they rove -from place to place, rarely acquiring decent habits or becoming -permanent citizens. They are, nevertheless, great lovers and admirers of -women; and most of them make it a special branch of their business to -cultivate a due share of female acquaintance. But we will now bid adieu -to the blacklegs, and return again to the street, merely stopping a -minute or two, as we pass out, to listen to the enchanting strains of -“Katy Darling,” or “Lilly Dale,” played by the brass band in attendance.</p> - -<p>What is here called the plaza, or park, which occupies one square -between Washington, Clay, Kearney and Brenham streets, now lies before -us; but as it is nothing more nor less than a cow-pen, inclosed with -unplaned plank, we will say but little about it. In the middle is -planted a tall liberty-poll, near which is erected a rude rostrum for -lynch-lawyers and noisy politicians. If there is a tree, or a bush, or a -shrub, or a sprig of grass, or any thing else in or about it that is<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_75">{75}</a></span> -green, or that bears the slightest similitude to vegetation, nobody has -ever yet seen it; and, as a pleasure-ground, it is used only by the -four-footed denizens of the city. On the east side of this delectable -public square is the California Exchange, before the steps of which are -stationed from fifteen to twenty French peasants, who pursue no business -save that of blacking boots. Most of them have acquired or adopted this -ornamental occupation since they left La Belle France.</p> - -<p>A few doors above the Exchange stands the City Hall, which was formerly -the Jenny Lind Theatre—a very neat stone structure, but wholly unsuited -for the purpose to which it is now applied. The parties who built it for -a theatre soon ascertained that it was a bad speculation, and became -considerably involved in debt; and, to save themselves, and make the -best of a bad bargain, they bribed a majority of the aldermen to -purchase it for a City Hall, at several thousand dollars above the -original cost.</p> - -<p>In this way a monstrous swindle was perpetrated upon the community, by -fraudulently appropriating the public money to the use and benefit of -private individuals. But the fraud could not be remedied; the city -officers had been elected as the representatives of the citizens, whose -rights and powers had been vested in them, and if they were so base as -to prove recre<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_76">{76}</a></span>ant to their trust, the penalty had to be paid by their -constituents. They consummated their corrupt bargain for the theatre, -the properties were removed, and, after the expenditure of much time, -labor, and money, in making alterations and additions, the building was -converted into what now stands before us—the City Hall of San -Francisco. The principals in this iniquitous transaction enriched -themselves and their accomplices at the expense of the city treasury, -suffering nothing except the denunciations and execrations of an abused -and outraged public. This is a fair sample of the disposition that is -made of the public funds throughout the State. Sheriffs, treasurers, and -tax-collectors, in the majority of cases, are expected to decamp with -all the money in their hands, or to embezzle a part of it; and it has -passed into a proverb, that no <i>honest</i> man can be elected to a city, -county, or state office in California.</p> - -<p>Were we to remain an hour or two in this vicinity, we should probably -see a police officer rolling “a perpetual hymn to the Deity” on a -wheelbarrow—for that, we believe, is Poe’s euphemism for a woman. -Intoxication is quite common among the ladies of this particular section -of San Francisco, and the wheelbarrow, or some other vehicle, must be -employed to convey them to the station-house, on account of the total -failure of their natural organs of locomotion.</p> - -<p>On the north side of the Plaza are some of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_77">{77}</a></span> best French -eating-houses in the State. One of them, the <i>Cafe du Commerce</i>, which, -translated into English, means Commercial Coffee-house, is quite famous -for its choice gastronomy. A better dinner can be procured here than in -an American house, because the French are better cooks, cleaner in their -culinary arrangements and preparations, more polite and attentive to -their guests, and less accustomed to adulterating their provisions. -Dinner, without wine, costs two dollars for each person; but with it, -from three to five dollars, according to quality and quantity consumed. -The stranger cannot promise himself any thing very sumptuous or -delicious in the way of eatables, even in the first-class hotels. He can -get good wines and liquors, prime cigars and tobacco, and other -accessory articles of superior quality; but the fare at best is very -indifferent.</p> - -<p>All the more substantial articles of food, such as flour, meal, beef, -pork, and butter, are imported from Europe or brought from the Atlantic -States. As these provisions are sent around by Cape Horn, they must pass -twice through the tropics before they arrive in San Francisco; -consequently, most of them become more or less sour, musty, or rancid, -which, as we all know, renders them not only repugnant to the palate, -but also injurious to health. But, notwithstanding their transportation -of from seventeen to twenty thou<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_78">{78}</a></span>sand miles upon the Atlantic and -Pacific oceans, old or fresh, sound or unsound, they must be sold, -served up, cooked, eaten. They cannot be wasted or thrown away, for that -would be a losing business, and people did not come to California to -lose money, but to make it; nor does it matter to them whether they make -it by the sale of sweet flour or by the vending of putrid meats.</p> - -<p>Sour flour is sold at reduced prices to the bakers, who mix it with a -larger quantity—say twice as much—of that which is sweet; then it is -manufactured into bread, delivered to the restaurants, and devoured by -the populace. The flour put up by the Gallego and Haxall mills, of -Richmond, Virginia, receives less damage in its transit through the -torrid zone than any other—at least, this is the reputation it enjoys -in California, those brands being more highly prized and more eagerly -sought after by bakers and consumers. Next to the Richmond, the -Fredericksburg and Georgetown flour is most in demand. How it is that -the flour manufactured in the localities just named, or in the vicinity -of those localities, retains its pure and primitive qualities better and -longer than that produced at the North, which, with few exceptions, -spoils on the way, I am unable to say—unless, perhaps, the latitude or -climate imparts to it a healthier condition or a preservative -principle.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_79">{79}</a></span></p> - -<p>Within the last one or two years, considerable quantities of the -cerealia have been cultivated in the low lands and valleys of this -State, and a few flouring mills have been erected, which are now in -operation; but the proprietors mix their grists so much with rye and -barley, that the flour is less marketable than it would be if it was -ground out of genuine wheat. To give character to their spurious -compound, they practice a double imposition, by packing it in empty -Gallego and Haxall barrels, which are clandestinely purchased and kept -in readiness for the purpose. Thus they steal the reputation of the -Virginia brands; and, by placing their falsely-labeled, inferior flour -in the hands of their rascally agents, they succeed in effecting large -sales of it to those who are not particular in their examinations. -Though the fraud is easily detected when the barrels are opened, there -is no chance of obtaining redress; for, in most cases, these deceptions -are carried out in such an indirect or complicated way, through factors -and agents, that it is too difficult a matter to trace them to their -source. If, however, the guilty parties are discovered, it amounts to -nothing; because here, where the laws are so loosely and imperfectly -administered, where all strong persons do as they please, and weak ones -must do as they can, it costs more to adjust a wrong than it does to -endure it.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_80">{80}</a></span></p> - -<p>This system of cheating and adulteration is carried out in all -ramifications of business; and if a man is not continually upon the -alert, he is sure to suffer the penalty of his negligence, by having a -worse thing than he bargained for thrust upon him, and that, too, -without redress.</p> - -<p>To return from our digression: although the French are somewhat more -philosophic and scientific in their preparation of viands, we perceive -no material difference between their mode of living and our own. They -eat more slowly, are more graceful in their deportment at table, and -seem to enjoy their meals as a feast, rather than to devour them as a -necessary repast. Wine is their principal drink, morning, noon and -night; and dinner to them, without it, would be as insipid and -unpalatable as breakfast to our American grand-mothers without coffee. -After the main part of the meal is finished, it is customary with them -to sip a small cup of strong coffee, as a sort of accompaniment to their -dessert. This, however, they do not flavor with cream, as we do, but use -Cognac, burnt with sugar, instead. It is an unusual thing for them to -drink water at any time, except when mixed with wine. I have the -pleasure of the acquaintance of a very worthy and estimable French -gentleman, who assured me that he had taken but one drink of crude water -in four years, “and then,” he added, “it make me sick.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_81">{81}</a></span>”</p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">SAN FRANCISCO—CONCLUDED.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">After</span> a night’s lodging in one of the human-stables of San Francisco, -called here, for politeness’ sake, hotels, we feel sufficiently -refreshed to continue our reconnoissance of the city. It will probably -be as well for us to retrace our steps to the south side of the Plaza, -where we re-enter Clay street, and ascend the long, high hill that forms -the western boundary of the city. Before proceeding far, we come to a -pistol gallery, on the left, owned and conducted by one Dr. Natchez, a -short, thick-set “son of thunder,” who keeps on hand the best assortment -of dueling apparatus that the world affords. The proprietor’s real -cognomen is, I think, Brown, Smith or Jones; but every body calls him -Natchez, because he came from the town of that name in Mississippi. He -knows all about guns, pistols, and ammunition; is an excellent shot—can -hit a bull’s eye or a man’s eye every time he pulls a trigger; and never -fails to vindicate his honor when it is assailed. In the opinion of the -duelist, he is emphatically an honor-saving man; and in matters of -personal difficulty and dis<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_82">{82}</a></span>pute, there is no one so capable of giving -suitable advice, or so well prepared to supply the necessary instruments -of polite slaughter, as Dr. Natchez.</p> - -<p>Among the fiery spirits of this Western Metropolis, the slightest -affront, even though it may be purely accidental, is considered a wound -to dignity curable only by an application of Colt’s revolver to the -breast of the transgressor; and as Dr. Natchez enjoys the reputation of -preparing the best remedies for wounded honor, all those afflicted with -the disorder apply to him for relief. Laying before him their ailments -and grievances, he will at once say <i>the cause must be removed</i>; the -offending party is waited upon with a challenge, which is accepted; and -the Doctor, with commendable impartiality, superintends the preparation -of the weapons for both parties.</p> - -<p>Passing on towards the summit of the hill before us, we soon arrive at -an elevation from which we have a clear and uninterrupted view of the -whole city, which contains, it is supposed, from forty-five to fifty -thousand inhabitants—about one-fifth of the entire population of the -State. The original water-boundary of the city, on the east, was in the -form of a crescent; but, the bay being shallow in this particular part, -its shape has been changed, by filling it in with sand from the adjacent -hills. Owing to the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_83">{83}</a></span> steep declivities of the original site of the city, -this encroachment was demanded and effected by those engaged in -commercial pursuits, who wanted level ground. The land thus made, being -the most eligibly situated and convenient to the wharves, is far more -valuable than that of natural formation. At first, however, heavy losses -were sustained, in consequence of the insecure foundations of most of -the buildings, some of which gave way entirely, and had to be -reconstructed. Now, however, they understand it better, and take special -care to pile and plank the foundation thoroughly before the -superstructure is erected.</p> - -<p>The process of filling up these water-lots was very irregular; and, as -the work advanced, several ponds of water, which afterwards became -stagnant, were cut off by these means from the ocean. In other places, -the tide receded from the shallow parts of the bay, and from the surface -thus left bare, as well as from the ponds last mentioned, there arose -large quantities of highly offensive and almost suffocating gas, which -obliterated all the painted signs in the immediate vicinity. Strange to -say, the effluvium exhaled from these foul ponds and marshy places did -not produce disease. The wind blew it off or counteracted its -insalubrious effects.</p> - -<p>Viewing the city from our present elevated position, we look in vain for -any verdure. In<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_84">{84}</a></span>deed, there is not a shade-tree in San Francisco. Nor, -if we search the outskirts of the city, can we find either trees, -coppice, vegetation, or any green thing whereon to feast the eyes. The -earth all around us is as sterile and unproductive as a public highway. -We feel a void, as though a friend were absent. Nature wears a repulsive -and haggard expression. Oh! how few there are amongst us who duly -appreciate trees, those noble earth-fingers that point to heaven and -uplift the mind to God! According to my judgment, there is a greater -combination of the beautiful and the useful in a forest oak or hickory, -than in all the gay exotics which are so carefully reared by the -florist. I entertain no doubt that a large, luxuriant elm would attract -more attention in San Francisco than a menagerie or circus; and it is a -wonder that some ingenious and speculative Yankee has not, ere this, -manufactured one out of soft pine and dyed muslin for public exhibition. -As an instance of the feeling that exists here on account of the lack of -trees, I may cite the exclamation of a distinguished gentleman with whom -I once had the honor to dine. Said he, (his wife at the time being in -North Carolina,) “I long for the society of trees almost as much as I do -for that of my wife; and if she and a big oak could now be placed side -by side within my reach, I scarcely know which of the two I should -embrace first!<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_85">{85}</a></span>”</p> - -<p>Many other natural and artificial deficiencies and peculiarities, for -which San Francisco is famous, might, with propriety, be considered -before we quit our high retreat; but we will now conclude our panoramic -sketch, and descend into the more densely settled part of the city.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_86">{86}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">THE CHINESE IN CALIFORNIA.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> national habits and traits of Chinese character, to which they cling -with uncompromising tenacity in this country, are strikingly anomalous -and distinct from those of all other nations. There is a marked identity -about their features, person, manners and costume, so unmistakable that -it betrays their nationality in a moment. So stereotyped are even the -features and form of this singular people, that we cannot fail in their -identity in the rudest cut that pretends to represent them. Particular -fashions and modes of dress give them no concern whatever. One common -rule seems to guide them in all their personal decorations. All their -garments look as if they were made after the same pattern, out of the -same material, and from the same piece of cloth. In short, the -similarity in their garb, features, physical proportions and deportment -is so great that one Chinaman looks almost exactly like another, but -very unlike anybody else.</p> - -<p>Let us now place ourselves in front of one of these xanthous children of -the flowery land, and survey him somewhat minutely. Every one is<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_87">{87}</a></span> -acquainted with his method of dressing his head, which is closely -shaven, except a small spot on the crown, about the size of the palm of -the hand. Into this slender lock of hair thus permitted to grow upon the -apex of his cranium, he interweaves long strands of sable silk, which -form a cue that nearly reaches the ground. His hat, which possesses a -brim of enormous width, is manufactured out of ratan or bamboo splints, -and has an indentation made in the top expressly for the accommodation -of his cue. He very seldom, however, wears this appendage tucked up in -his hat, but generally allows it to trail about his back and legs, as -young girls sometimes do ribbons. This pig-tail he loves as he does his -life; and he would as willingly have his right arm amputated as part -with it. Notwithstanding he carries it behind him, it is his -character—the badge of his respectability; and Boodh or Josh alone -could prevail upon him to cut it off. His coat, which is fashioned very -much like a pea-jacket, is made of crow-colored cotton cloth, of flimsy -texture, and buttons loosely around him as low down as convenience will -permit. His pantaloons, the legs of which are a trifle smaller than a -medium-sized meal-bag, are composed of the same stuff as his coat, and -terminate at about the middle of his shins. His shoes or sandals—minus -socks, for he never wears any—are hewn out of solid wood, and taper -towards the toe<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_88">{88}</a></span> nearly to a sharp point. As he moves along before us in -these uncouth habiliments—his feet inclosed in rude wooden shoes, his -legs bare, his breeches loosely flapping against his knees, his -skirtless, long-sleeved, big-bodied pea-jacket, hanging in large folds -around his waist, his broad-brimmed chapeau rocking carelessly on his -head, and his cue suspended and gently sweeping about his back—I can -compare him to nothing so appropriately as to a tadpole walking upon -stilts! Ludicrous and absurd as this comparison may appear to some, no -one who has seen him will say that it is incorrectly applied. Such, -then, is something of the outline of the Chinaman; and, with but few -exceptions, may be considered as illustrative of the entire race as seen -in California. The few exceptions are the mandarins, who robe themselves -in long figured gowns, and some of the wealthier classes, who wear silk -and satin goods, instead of cotton fabrics. But the description given -above will suit at least nine out of every ten.</p> - -<p>According to the most reliable estimates, there are at the present time -about forty thousand Chinese in California; and every vessel that -arrives from the Celestial Empire brings additional immigrants. From a -fourth to a fifth of these reside in San Francisco; the balance are -scattered about over various parts of the State—mostly in the mines. A -few females—say one to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_89">{89}</a></span> every twelve or fifteen males—are among the -number; among these good morals are unknown, they have no regard -whatever for chastity or virtue. You would be puzzled to distinguish the -women from the men, so inconsiderable are the differences in dress and -figure. The only apparent difference is, that they are of smaller -stature and have smoother features. They are not generally neat in their -outward habit; but on certain occasions, particularly on holidays, the -<i>elite</i> doff their every-day costume, equip themselves in clean attire, -and braid their hair into a kind of crest, which, as it is worn upon the -head, bears a strong resemblance to the tuft of feathers upon the noddle -of a peacock. Those who are from the extreme northern parts of the -Chinese empire, are the ugliest and most rugged featured human beings I -ever saw.</p> - -<p>What the majority of them do for a livelihood is more than I can tell, -as they have but few visible occupations. The laundry business affords -those who live in San Francisco, and other cities, the most steady and -lucrative employment; and in passing their premises, the eye is often -attracted to such “Celestial” signs as the following: “Kum Kee. Washer.” -“Ahi Fe. Launder.” “Wong Cho. Washing and Ironing—$3 per Doz.” Catching -and drying fish is another business in which they engage, but do not -carry it on extensively; others are<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_90">{90}</a></span> engaged in mercantile pursuits; and -here and there you will find one in a public house, filling the place of -a cook or a waiter. But, though most of them are held as mere slaves by -their wealthier countrymen, it goes desperately against the grain with -them to take the situation of servants among white people, as they are -constitutionally haughty and conceited, and believe themselves to be -superior to us in all respects. So exalted an opinion have they of -themselves that they think they are the most central, civilized and -enlightened people on earth, and that they are the especial favorites of -heaven—hence they are sometimes called “Celestials.” They look upon us -and all other white-skinned nations as “outside barbarians,” and think -we are unduly presumptuous if we do not pay them homage! Out of the -cities, more of them are engaged in mining than in any other occupation; -but, as I intimated before, the majority of them lead a very inactive -and unproductive life. Much physical exertion, however, is not required -to secure them a maintenance; for their aliment, if possible, costs them -less than their dress, which is by no means expensive. Indeed, so -sparing are they in their meals, that it is seldom they eat any thing -but boiled rice; and even this, which they bring with them from China, -is very inferior to that raised in the Carolinas. It is an amusing -spectacle to see one of them feeding on<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_91">{91}</a></span> this grain. Holding a bowl of -the rice in such a manner that the nearer edge of it almost touches his -chin, and grasping two chopsticks, about the shape and size of -penholders, between his fingers and thumb, he feeds himself with a -lively and dexterous motion of the hand, not very unlike a musician -playing upon a jewsharp, and continues the feat without intermission -until he has finished. He seems to cram the food down his throat with -these chopsticks, rather than let it undergo the usual process of -mastication. The ardor and haste with which he executes the performance, -remind one of a provident farmer when he pitches new-made sheaves of -provender into a hay-mow, just previous to a thunder-storm.</p> - -<p>The Americans salute them all indiscriminately by the easy and -euphonious appellation of “John,” to which they reply as readily as if -they were addressed by their true names; and they return the compliment -by applying the same term to us, equally indiscriminately. A great -number of them think “John” is the only name white people have; and if -they have occasion to speak to an American or European woman, they call -her “John,” too! But their own vernacular cognomens, like their language -and habits, sound certainly very odd to occidental ears. The following -may be taken as fair specimens: Kak Chow, Chum Fi, Yah Wah, Si Ta, Hom -Fong, Dack Mung, Gee Foo. They are de<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_92">{92}</a></span>plorably addicted to wasting time -in games of chance; and there are a dozen and a half gambling houses in -San Francisco under their especial control and direction. But neither -Americans nor Europeans participate in the sports or fortunes of their -tables; they themselves are the exclusive gamblers in these eighteen -dens of rascality. Their money is chiefly composed of brass and copper -coins, stamped with the characters of their alphabet. Hardened rice and -stamped slices of pasteboard are also current among them as mediums of -exchange.</p> - -<p>Is this Chinese immigration desirable? I think not; and, contrary to the -expressed opinions of many of the public prints throughout the country, -contend that it ought not to be encouraged. It is not desirable, because -it is not useful; or, if useful at all, it is so only to themselves—not -to us. No reciprocal or mutual benefits are conferred. In what capacity -do they contribute to the advancement of American interests? Are they -engaged in any thing that adds to the general wealth and importance of -the country? Will they discard their clannish prepossessions, assimilate -with us, buy of us, and respect us? Are they not so full of duplicity, -prevarication and pagan prejudices, and so enervated and lazy, that it -is impossible for them to make true or estimable citizens? I wish their -advocates would answer me these questions; if they<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_93">{93}</a></span> will do it -satisfactorily, I will interrogate them no further. Under the existing -laws of our government, they, as well as all other foreigners, are -permitted to work the mines in California as long as they please, and as -much as they please, without paying any thing for the privilege, except -a small tax to the State. Even this has but recently been imposed, and -half the time is either evaded or neglected. The general government, -though it has sacrificed so much blood and treasure in acquiring -California, is now so liberal that it refuses to enact a law imposing a -tax upon foreign miners; and, as a matter of course, it receives no -revenue whatever from this source. But the Chinese are more -objectionable than other foreigners, because they refuse to have dealing -or intercourse with us; consequently, there is no chance of making any -thing of them, either in the way of trade or labor. They are ready to -take all they can get from us, but are not willing to give any thing in -return. They did not aid in the acquisition or settlement of California, -and they do not intend to make it their future home. They will not -become permanent citizens, nor identify their lives and interests with -the country. They neither build nor buy, nor invest capital in any way -that conduces to the advantage of any one but themselves. They have -thousands of good-for-nothing gewgaws and worthless articles of <i>virtu</i> -for sale,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_94">{94}</a></span> and our people are foolish enough to buy them; but their -knowledge of the laws of reciprocity is so limited, that they never feel -in any need of American commodities.</p> - -<p>Though they hold themselves aloof from us, contemn and disdain us, they -have guaranteed to them the same privileges that we enjoy; and are -allowed to exhaust the mines that should be reserved for us and our -posterity—that is, if they are worth reserving at all. Their places -could and should be filled with worthier immigrants—Europeans, who -would take the oath of allegiance to the country, work both for -themselves and for the commonwealth, fraternize with us, and, finally, -become a part of us. All things considered, I cannot perceive what more -right or business these semi-barbarians have in California than flocks -of blackbirds have in a wheatfield; for, as the birds carry off the -wheat without leaving any thing of value behind, so do the Confucians -gather the gold, and take it away with them to China, without -compensation to us who opened the way to it.</p> - -<p>Still they are received with a flattering welcome. They are taken by the -hand with an obsequious grasp, as if their favor was earnestly desired; -and the impression is at once made upon their minds, that not only their -own presence, but also that of as many more of their kindred as can be -persuaded to come, is coveted<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_95">{95}</a></span> by us. Their mining implements and boots -(the only articles of merchandise they purchase from us) are sold to -them at even less rates than to our own countrymen, more from curiosity -than from any other cause. For some unaccountable reason, they are -treated with a degree of deference and civility which is really -surprising. To humor their arrogance and presumption, I have frequently -seen Americans, in crowded places, relinquish the side-walk to them, and -betake themselves to the middle of a rough and muddy street. Moreover, -they are petted as if they were really what they preposterously fancy -themselves—the most elevated and exalted of the human race.</p> - -<p>But I am inclined to look upon them as an inauspicious element of -society—a seed of political dissensions. They have neither the strength -of body nor the power of mind to cope with us in the common affairs of -life; and as it seems to be a universal law that the stronger shall rule -the weaker, it will be required of them, ere long, to do one of two -things, namely—either to succumb, to serve us, or to quit the country. -Which will they do? Our people will not always treat them with undue -complaisance. Their real merits and demerits will be developed, and such -stations as their natural endowments qualify them to fill will be -assigned them. They must work for themselves, or we will make them work -for us.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_96">{96}</a></span> No inferior race of men can exist in these United States -without becoming subordinate to the will of the Anglo-Americans, or -foregoing many of the necessaries and comforts of life. They must either -be our equals or our dependents. It is so with the negroes in the South; -it is so with the Irish in the North; it was so with the Indians in New -England; and it will be so with the Chinese in California. The Indians, -it is true, would not submit to be enslaved; but they had to suffer -exile, hunger and death as a consequence of their intractability. -Certain it is, that the greater the diversity of colors and qualities of -men, the greater will be the strife and conflict of feeling. One party -will gain the ascendency, and dominate over the other. Our population -was already too heterogeneous before the Chinese came; but now another -adventitious ingredient has been added; and I should not wonder at all, -if the copper of the Pacific yet becomes as great a subject of discord -and dissension as the ebony of the Atlantic. However, the discussion and -consideration of these matters more properly devolve upon our public -functionaries, who, I presume, if loyal to their constituents and their -country, will not lightly regard them.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_97">{97}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">CURSORY VIEWS.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">California</span> has features as distinct and peculiar as the Alps or the -Andes. It cannot be mistaken for any other country; it is like no other -region on the face of the earth. Being new, and in some respects -untried, the most various conjectures, and the most opposite opinions -have been expressed as to its future fortunes and ultimate destiny. A -few who have been successful in their schemes and undertakings, and -whose interests and existence are now blended with it, flatter -themselves that it is destined to become a great and flourishing state; -while, on the other hand, the great majority, who have been disappointed -in all their expectations, and thwarted in every attempt, pronounce it -an unmitigated cheat, and curse it bitterly as the cause of their ruin. -My own opinions are, I imagine, by this time pretty well understood. I -speak of the country as I have seen it, not as a mere passing traveler, -but as an attentive observer. I emigrated to it as much in search of -adventure as of profit; and, during the three years of my residence -within its borders, have had ample oppor<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_98">{98}</a></span>tunities to explore and -scrutinize it as I desired. I am fully satisfied with my information -upon this subject. I have seen all of it that is worth seeing, and a -great deal besides. I crave no further knowledge of it than I now -possess.</p> - -<p>While there is any unoccupied land between the British boundaries of -Maine and the Mexican limits of Texas, between the Florida Reefs and the -Falls of St. Anthony, I would not advise any person to emigrate to -California for the purpose of bettering his worldly condition. I have, -indeed, no personal knowledge of the other divisions of land west of the -Rocky Mountains; yet an acquaintance with gentlemen of character and -veracity who have visited those sections, justifies the opinion that -none of them abound in those elements of exuberant and permanent -greatness so characteristic of the States east of the Rio Grande and the -Mississippi. Oregon and Washington territories, Utah and New Mexico are -tolerable countries, and, in some respects, superior to California; but -owing to the general inferiority of their natural advantages, they can -never become as powerful or important States as Louisiana or New York, -Georgia or Illinois. The Pacific side of the continent is, as a general -thing, far inferior to the Atlantic slope.</p> - -<p>In my judgment, the present condition and future prospects of -California, so far from offering inducements for additional immigration, -ac<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_99">{99}</a></span>tually portend much poverty and suffering. The very fact that -thousands of men, some of whom have been in the country from three to -four years, are working for nothing but their board, is of itself -justifiable ground for this apprehension. More than a dozen stout, -sober, able-bodied men, who asked nothing in compensation for their -services but food, have applied to me for employment in a single day. I -have elsewhere remarked that many of the most menial and humiliating -situations about hotels, stores and private residences are filled by -these ill-fated men, who, if they had the means, would be glad to shake -off the dust of California from their feet, and return to the homes of -their youth, where peace, plenty and happiness are attainable by all. -Misery and despair go to bed with them at night, rise with them in the -morning and accompany them throughout the day; they have been grossly -deceived; “hope told them a flattering tale,” and broke her lying -promise; their hearts are sick with unrelenting and consuming sorrows. -Strangers among strangers, they have no friend to soothe or assist them -in the hour of misfortune; if they hunger, they must fast; if sickness -overtake them, death is their remedy. Depressed in spirits, and driven -to desperation by bitter and repeated calamities, they betake themselves -to the bottle for solace, become insane from extreme anxiety or -over-activity of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_100">{100}</a></span> mind, or else, with bullet, knife, or poison, put -a summary end to their wretched lives. Such is the history of many a man -who has perished in that land of gold.</p> - -<p>They left their homes flushed with hope; those near and dear to them -imprinted the last kiss upon their cheeks, and bade them adieu with -heavy hearts and tearful eyes, but found consolation in the hope that -they would soon return. Those who escaped the many dangers of the -various routes and reached their destination, wrote back to their -friends immediately upon their arrival that all was well. The news was -received with ecstasy; heaven was thanked for their deliverance from the -perils of the trip; the neighbors were informed of the health and safety -of the adventurers; and for a few weeks all things promised well. In a -month or so another letter was anxiously looked for, but did not make -its appearance; then fears began to be entertained, and the unwelcome -thought would occasionally flash through the mind that all was not well. -Nor was it. Month after month slowly and gloomily passed away, without -bringing any tidings of the poor deluded wanderers; and it has now been -so long since they were heard from, that it is easier to reckon the time -by years than by months. Still their fate is wrapt in mystery which is -no more likely to be unraveled than is the fate of the President and her -crew.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_101">{101}</a></span> All that can be concluded is, that they lie some where within the -confines of California, with no monument to reveal the place of their -final slumber.</p> - -<p>The immigration to California has been too much like the rush of an -excited and impatient audience into a theatre, when it is known that a -favorite actor is about to perform. There has been too much scrambling, -too much crowding and pushing. Every body has heard that gold is -scattered over her hills and mountains; thousands covet it, and are -foolish enough to suppose that any body can get it. Without taking a -calm and deliberate view of the subject—without balancing both sides, -or counting the cost, they have suddenly abandoned their homes, and -rushed in disorder to the land over which hovered their visions of -wealth. They imagined that they had discovered the secret of fortune, -and, in their enthusiasm, immediately set out to realize their dreams. -They discovered, alas! too late, that their emigration was ill-timed and -unprofitable, that they had exchanged a good situation for a bad one, -and that immense sacrifices must be made before they could replace -themselves in their former position.</p> - -<p>No country can ever become truly great, unless it possesses abundant -agricultural resources; and as California is deficient in this as well -as in other respects, it is absurd to suppose that she<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_102">{102}</a></span> will attract -attention longer than her mines pay for working. The banks of the -rivers, and the localities in the San Jose, Sacramento, and San Joaquin -valleys, form exceptions to this general sterility. There the ground is -low and moist, or easily irrigated, the soil is extremely fertile, and -produces vegetables, which, for size and powers of multiplication, have -probably never been equaled. These spots, however, are little more, in -comparison with the area of the State, than are the roads of a county to -the county itself; and they cannot, therefore, be depended upon to -supply the wants and necessities of the whole country, should it ever be -thickly settled throughout—an event which, for the very reason I have -mentioned above, I do not believe will ever take place. These valleys -and the banks of the rivers seem to have become the receptacle of nearly -all the virtue of the surrounding surface of the country. As a few -specimens of the vegetable monstrosities, the productions of these -fertile spots, that have come under my notice, I may mention a beet that -weighed forty-seven pounds; a cabbage, thirty-two pounds; a turnip, -twenty-six pounds; an Irish potato, seven pounds; and a water-melon, -sixty-four pounds. Onions, lettuce, radishes, and other horticultural -productions, also grow to an enormous size. Irish potatoes, however, I -believe, are the most prolific crop that can be planted. Indian<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_103">{103}</a></span> corn is -cultivated to but little if any advantage. All of the arable parts of -the State are now settled; and farmers who go thither hereafter will -either have to return, or abandon altogether the idea of cultivating the -soil; for it will be impossible for them to make a subsistence out of -the sterile hills of the upland.</p> - -<p>That millions of dollars worth of gold have been taken from the mines, -and that there is a vast amount still remaining, no one pretends to -deny; but then it does not exist in the quantity that is generally -supposed. There is nothing more uncertain, as a business, than gold -mining in California. It is, indeed, like a lottery—more blanks than -prizes; and as every man has to take his chances, he must not feel too -much disappointed if his luck leaves him with the majority. A few make -themselves independently rich, and go home with flying colors; but where -one does it, there are forty or fifty, at least, who, though equally -sober, industrious and deserving, do not make more than their support, -and very frequently not even that.</p> - -<p>Half the stories afloat concerning “wealthy returned Californians” are -exaggerated beyond the power of tongue to describe. A case or two in -point:—A young man from the West, who had been mining between two and -three years, and with whom I had become acquainted, started home on a -certain occasion, with about one hun<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_104">{104}</a></span>dred and sixty dollars over and -above his expenses. In speaking of his friends, I asked him what he was -going to tell them when he got home. “Oh!” says he, “I shall not admit -that I have made so little; for, if I do, they’ll accuse me of having -been indolent, of gambling, of drinking, or some other disreputable -thing that I have never been guilty of; so I’ll give out that I have -made twelve or fifteen thousand dollars; and about the time I shall have -got them all in a good humor, I’ll take an excursion down to New -Orleans, and thence to South America, where I am determined hereafter to -seek my fortune.” Thus, although he was honorable, and not addicted to -habits of dissipation, he had not the nerve to tell the real truth of -his own success. This shows how easily these exaggerated rumors are set -agoing, and public ignorance imposed upon. The further people live from -California, the more credulous are they of golden legends; and I am -persuaded that the young man above alluded to had no difficulty in -making his neighbors in the West believe he was worth whatever amount he -chose to tell them he had made. Extravagant as this story may sound, it -is not without a parallel. A man, who had accumulated from three to four -thousand dollars, returned on a visit to his friends in the East; and, -to test the credulity of the people, he put out the report that he had -made five hundred thousand<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_105">{105}</a></span> dollars. His story was received by the -gaping neighbors without a doubt; and all at once our adventurer found -himself the invited guest of nabobs who never knew him before he went to -California, though they had seen him hundreds of times. I cannot close -these remarks without offering a word of advice to the marriageable -ladies. If you seek a rich husband, do not form a matrimonial alliance -with an El Dorado Crœsus; for, in nine cases out of ten, a “wealthy -Californian” is a poor man.</p> - -<p>Admitting all that is claimed for California in regard to her mineral -wealth, it affords no reason why every body should rush thither; nor is -it any argument that it will ever become the land of promise which an -enthusiastic imagination may picture. It is already a pandemonium; and -it does not clearly appear how it can become an elysium.</p> - -<p>The benefit of mines of the precious metals to the country in which they -are found, is still an open question. The weight of authority is against -them. The history of Mexico and Peru, in this hemisphere, as well as the -new chapter which California is opening, cannot be quoted in their -favor. It seems to be decreed that, the more oblique the route by which -gold is reached, the greater is its value; while the more directly it is -acquired, the more mischievous is it to the morals and the material -wealth of a nation. If,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_106">{106}</a></span> as Joseph Bonaparte so happily remarked, “gold, -in its last analysis, is the sweat of the poor and the blood of the -brave,” the more of these ingredients contribute to produce it, the -richer is the result. The concurrent testimony of all ages proves that -those nations who obtain their wealth by the indirect methods of -agriculture, manufactures and commerce, are more happy and more -prosperous than those who dig their treasures directly from the earth. -This result is partly brought about by the great diversity of -occupations which spring up in such a state of society, and give -employment to all classes of the community: whereas, in a mining region, -rich only in the precious metals, the resources of labor are fewer, and -its tasks less diversified. The moral effect of sudden riches must also -be taken into consideration. Few men can gaze undazzled at the splendor -of a large fortune: and the more rapidly they acquire it, the more -likely are they to grow dizzy in its contemplation. It seems to require -time for a man to become habituated to the sight of wealth, in order to -enable him to enjoy it with ease or dignity.</p> - -<p>We cannot, therefore, conclude that the mere presence of gold is -sufficient to advance California to a high position among her sister -commonwealths. She produces the circulating medium of the country, it is -true: and the intrinsic value of that medium causes the world to -overlook the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_107">{107}</a></span> cost of its acquisition. We have endeavored, however, to -set people right on that subject in the chapter entitled “The -Balance-Sheet,” and shall not repeat what was there said.</p> - -<p>We will not urge any complaint against the climate; for, in this -respect, all classes and conditions of men can be suited, whether from -the burning regions of Central Africa, or from the snow-capped mountains -of Russian America. Along the southern line of the State it is -oppressively hot, and, as a matter of course, is somewhat enervating; -but in the north and north-east, among the mountains, it is extremely -cold; and snow, to the depth of from two to ten feet, is found there as -late as August. Large quantities of this snow are brought down to the -cities, a distance of more than two hundred miles, by teamsters, and -sold as a substitute for ice. The northern and southern sections of the -State are, as yet, but little inhabited or known, except by the natives, -who, like all other North American Indians, are ignorant of any thing -beyond the limits of their own hunting-ground. In the middle or central -parts of the State, the climate, as a general thing, is delightful, and, -withal, highly invigorating and salubrious. Around San Francisco, -particularly, during the winter season, when it does not rain, the -weather is unusually mild and pleasant; and I have often heard it -compared to the climate of Italy. It is<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_108">{108}</a></span> not so agreeable in summer, -because the dust and winds prevail to such a decree, throughout the dry -season, as to become a source of extreme discomfort. The main objection -I have to the California climate, as stated in a previous chapter, is -the division of the seasons into six months of dry weather, which burns -and scorches the earth so severely that nothing will vegetate; and six -months of wet weather, during which time the rain falls so hard and so -fast, that it is quite impossible to perform out-door labor. These two -seasons are general—that is, they affect the entire State; but the -temperature of the atmosphere varies very much, according to locality. -In and about the latitude of San Francisco, it is rarely ever too cold -or too hot: though the weather frequently changes, three or four times -in a single day, from calm and warm to boisterous and cool, and from -boisterous and cool to calm and warm again. In other places, where the -days are intolerably close and sultry, it is necessary to have one or -two blankets to sleep under at night. The remarkable aridity and -unfruitfulness of the country at large, may be ascribed to the -protracted drought of the summer, which begins in April, and lasts until -about the middle of November.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_109">{109}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">SUNDAY IN CALIFORNIA.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Sabbath in California is kept, when kept at all, as a day of -hilarity and bacchanalian sports, rather than as a season of holy -meditation or religious devotion. Horse-racing, cock-fighting, -cony-hunting, card-playing, theatrical performances, and other elegant -amusements are freely engaged in on this day. If I remember correctly, -it was about two months after my arrival in the land of gold and misery, -that I had the misfortune to become acquainted with a renegade down-east -Congregationalist preacher, who invited me to accompany him, on the -following Sunday, in a deer-chase. Throughout the country, and in the -mines, shooting-matches and bear-hunting afford pleasant pastimes; -gambling is also practiced to a considerable extent, though not so much -as on other days. But we shall probably learn more of the manner in -which Sunday is spent, if we confine our attention to one of the larger -cities, San Francisco, for example. Here regattas, duels and -prize-fights are favorite diversions; and the Lord’s day seldom passes -without witnessing one or the other, or<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_110">{110}</a></span> both. Here, too, for a long -time, gaming was licensed on Sundays, as it is yet on week days; but -recently the city fathers have passed an ordinance prohibiting the -desecration, and I believe their example has been followed by three or -four of the other cities. There is no State law upon the subject.</p> - -<p>Connected with a tippling-house, on the corner of Washington and -Montgomery streets, there is one of the finest billiard-saloons in the -United States. It is very large, and magnificently decorated, has twelve -tables, and is furnished, I am informed, at a cost of twenty-five -thousand dollars. To this place hundreds of infatuated men betake -themselves every Sunday; and it is an unusual thing, at any time, to -find one of the tables unoccupied. Every day of the week, from breakfast -time in the morning till twelve o’clock at night, this saloon, like many -others of a like kind, is thronged; but the crowds are particularly -large on Sunday, because people have more leisure on that day. Though, -in this particular place, they are not allowed to gamble publicly on the -Sabbath, they lose and win as much money in the way of secret wagers as -they do openly on any other day.</p> - -<p>What can we expect but an abuse of the Sabbath, when we take into -account the contrariety of characters, tastes, dispositions and -religions here huddled together? When we scrutinize<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_111">{111}</a></span> society, we find -that some of its members, the Chinese and other pagans for instance, -know nothing at all of our system or division of time, and that they -are, therefore, absolutely ignorant of the meaning of the word Sunday. -There is no unity of thought, feeling or sentiment here; no oneness of -purpose, policy or action. There is no common interest; every man is for -himself, and himself alone. Society is composed of elements too varied -and dissimilar;—it is a heterogeneous assemblage of rivals and -competitors, who know no sympathy, and recognize no principle, save that -of personal profit and individual emolument. Nearly all colors and -qualities of mankind are congregated here. The great human family is, as -it were, sampled and its specimens formed into one society, each -communicating to the other his own peculiar habits, and each contending -for the same object—the acquisition of gold. It is manifest, therefore, -that there can be but little concert or harmony of action. Masquerade -balls, cotillion parties and jig dances fill up the list of Sunday -diversions. On Pacific street alone, the most notoriously profligate -thoroughfare in the city, there are from twelve to fifteen dance-houses, -in which the terpsichorean art is practiced every night during the week, -but usually with greater zest and animation on Sunday nights. These -fandangoes are principally under the superintendence or<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_112">{112}</a></span> management of -Mexican girls, of whom there is no small number in San Francisco and -other cities of the State. Before I ever saw any of the Mexican ladies, -I had heard the most glowing descriptions of their ravishing beauty; but -I must either discredit the accounts, or else conclude that my ideas of -female beauty are very imperfect, for I have never yet beheld one of -them who, according to my standard of good looks, was really beautiful. -Their pumpkin hues and slovenly deportment could never awaken any -admiration in me, even in California.</p> - -<p>Bonnets among them are quite unknown. Half the time they go bare-headed -through the streets and to church, just as they do about their premises; -but most of them have a long, narrow shawl, which is sometimes worn over -the head, as well as the shoulders. This shawl is, in fact, an almost -indispensable article of apparel, especially with the better classes, -who never appear in a public place, whether in winter or summer, without -it. They wrap it around their face, head and shoulders so ingeniously -that spectators can not obtain a glimpse of any part of their features, -save the forehead, eyes and nose; the mouth, chin and cheeks are -cautiously concealed. There is a gross lack of consistency among these -women. Notwithstanding they engage in the lowest debaucheries throughout -the week, they are strict attendants of the Catholic church; and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_113">{113}</a></span> dozens -of them may be seen any Sunday on their way to matins, mass or vespers, -clad in habiliments of the greatest possible variety. If they can only -get one fine, fashionable garment they think it makes amends for the bad -material and ill shape of all the others. Nor are they particular to -have their whole person clothed at the same time. I don’t think I have -ever seen one of them fully attired in my life; something was always -wanting. Sometimes they may be seen promenading the streets, robed in -the richest silks that were ever woven in Chinese looms, but when you -gaze down at their lower extremities you discover them stockingless, -their feet thrust into a pair of coarse slippers, which expose to view a -pair of rusty heels that look as if no ablution had been performed upon -them for at least three moons. The Mexicans, however, in most cases, are -fond of aquatic exercises; and they have several bathing establishments -in San Francisco, for the accommodation of the public, (at one dollar -per head for each bath,) as well as for their own convenience and -gratification. Unless I have been misinformed, it is a custom with the -proprietors, when a gentleman retires to take his bath, to dispatch a -female servant to his room to scour and scrub him off! As I resided near -an American bath-house, I always patronized it in preference, and did -not acquaint myself with Mexican usages in this respect.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_114">{114}</a></span></p> - -<p>Lately, however, women of pure and lofty characters have emigrated to -California, and, since their arrival, there has been a gradual and -steady improvement of morals among the people, and the Sabbath is now -much better observed than it used to be. Soon after their arrival, -schools and churches began to spring up, and social circles were formed; -refinement dawned upon a debauched and reckless community, decorum took -the place of obscenity; kind and gentle words were heard to fall from -the lips of those who before had been accustomed to taint every phrase -with an oath; and smiles displayed themselves upon countenances to which -they had long been strangers. Woman accomplished all this, and we should -be ungrateful reprobates indeed if we did not honor, esteem and love her -for it. Had I received no other benefit from my trip to California than -the knowledge I have gained, inadequate as it may be, of woman’s many -virtues and perfections, I should account myself well repaid; and I -thank heaven that I was induced to embark in an enterprise which -resulted in such a collateral remuneration. This I am constrained to -say, because I fear I should never have had a full appreciation of her -merits, had I not witnessed her happy influence in this benighted land. -It was only after leaving a home where her constant presence, her -soothing and animating society, appeared as a matter of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_115">{115}</a></span> course, and -removing to a sphere where she had a better opportunity of displaying -her power, that I could estimate her real worth.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“From woman’s eyes this doctrine I derive:<br></span> -<span class="i1">They sparkle still the right Promethean fire;<br></span> -<span class="i1">They are the books, the arts, the academies,<br></span> -<span class="i1">That show, contain, and nourish all the world.<br></span> -</div><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i15">O, then,<br></span> -<span class="i1">For wisdom’s sake, a word that all men love;<br></span> -<span class="i1">Or for love’s sake, a word that loves all men;<br></span> -<span class="i1">Or for men’s sake, the authors of these women;<br></span> -<span class="i1">Or for women’s sake, by whom we men are men,<br></span> -<span class="i1">Let us love women, and ourselves be true,<br></span> -<span class="i1">Or else we harm ourselves, and wrong them too.”<br></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>With the generous assistance and co-operation of the gentler sex, the -various religious denominations have succeeded in establishing for -themselves suitable places of worship in most of the cities and larger -towns throughout the State. San Francisco now contains fourteen -churches, two of which are Presbyterian, two Congregational, one -Unitarian, three Methodist, two Baptist, two Episcopal, and two Roman -Catholic. The Swedenborgians, Universalists, Mormons, and sundry minor -sects occasionally hold service in public halls; and, if I recollect -aright, the Jews have two synagogues. There is also a pagan temple, -where the Chinese pay their adorations to Boodh, or to some other -imaginary deity, whenever they experience a religious emotion.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_116">{116}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">BEAR AND BULL FIGHT.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">It</span> was a beautiful Sabbath morning in November, when the bells aroused -me from a dreamy sleep; but before arising from my couch, being lazy and -inclined to muse, I allowed my fancy to recall my departure from -Carolina with all its attendant circumstances. The hour alone would have -suggested such meditations, for it was on a dewy morning that I bade -farewell to the loved ones of my far-off home. I recalled the yellow -lustre of the sun pouring his floods of golden light over the glistening -tree-tops; the tender adieus, the streaming eyes, the murmured blessing. -I remembered the sadness of my heart as I thought of the distance that -would soon separate me from the friends and companions of my youth, and -the high hopes which soothed my pain.</p> - -<p>As I was thus pondering I heard the sound of drum, fife and clarionet; -and stepping to the window to ascertain what was the meaning of this -Sunday music echoing through the streets of San Francisco, I saw a -tremendous grizzly bear, caged, and drawn by four spirited horses<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_117">{117}</a></span> -through the various streets. Tacked to each side of the cage were large -posters, which read as follows:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="c">FUN BREWING—GREAT ATTRACTION!</p> - -<p class="c">HARD FIGHTING TO BE DONE!</p> - -<p class="c">TWO BULLS AND ONE BEAR!</p> - -<p>The citizens of San Francisco and vicinity are respectfully -informed that at <i>four o’clock this afternoon, Sunday, Nov. 14th</i>, -at <i>Mission Dolores</i>, a <i>rich treat</i> will be prepared for them, and -that they will have an opportunity of enjoying a fund of the -<i>raciest sport</i> of the season. <span class="smcap">Two large Bulls and a Bear</span>, all <i>in -prime condition for fighting</i>, and under the management of -<i>experienced Mexicans</i>, will contribute to the <i>amusement of the -audience</i>.</p> - -<p class="c">Programme—In two Acts.</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Act I.</span></p> - -<p class="c">BULL AND BEAR—“HERCULES” AND “TROJAN,”</p> - -<p>Will be conducted into the arena, and there <i>chained together</i>, -where they will fight <i>until one kills the other</i>.</p> - -<div class="rigt"> -<span class="smcap">Jose Ignacio</span>,}<br> -<span class="smcap">Pico Gomez</span>, } Managers.<br> -</div> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Act II.</span></p> - -<p>The great bull, “<span class="smcap">Behemoth</span>,” will be <i>let loose in the arena</i>, where -he will be <i>attacked by two of the most celebrated and expert -picadors of Mexico</i>, and finally <i>dispatched after the true Spanish -method</i>.</p> - -<p>Admittance $3—Tickets for sale at the door.</p> - -<div class="rigt"> -<span class="smcap">Joaquin Vatreto</span>, }<br> -<span class="smcap">Jesus Alvarez</span>,      } Managers.<br> -</div></div> - -<p>Mission Dolores, the place where these cruel sports were held, is a -small village about two miles south-west of San Francisco, which was<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_118">{118}</a></span> -first settled by a couple of Roman Catholic priests during the American -Revolution. It is contended by some that this was the first settlement -effected by white persons in Upper California. The buildings are but one -story in height, covered with tiles, and are constructed of <i>adobe</i> or -sun-dried clay. With regard to the general aspect of the place, it is -distressingly shabby and gloomy. For scores of years, the inhabitants, -who are a queer compound of Spanish and Indian blood, have lived here in -poverty, ignorance and inactivity. But I am digressing. What was I to do -about the bull-fight? I had never witnessed such an exhibition, and -consequently had a great desire to see it. It was Sunday, however, and -how could I reconcile the instructions of a pious mother with an -inclination so much at variance with the divine command? Well, without -entering into any thing like a defence of my determination, suffice it -to say that I made up my mind to go, and went. Anxious, however, to -moderate or diminish the sin as much as possible, I determined to hear a -sermon first, and go to the bull-fight afterwards. For the sake of -somewhat condensing the events of the day, I concluded to leave the city -immediately, and repair to the Mission, there to attend an antique -Catholic church, which has been built nearly three-quarters of a -century.</p> - -<p>Starting off with this view, I arrived within<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_119">{119}</a></span> hearing of the priests’ -voices about the time they began to chant the service, and on entering -the rickety old church, much to my gratification, I learned that it was -an extraordinary occasion with them, and that a deal of unusual display -might be expected. The rite or ceremony of high mass was to be -performed. Monks and friars from the monasteries of Mexico were in -attendance; and the church was thronged with a large and heterogeneous -crowd.</p> - -<p>Four o’clock, the hour appointed for the fight between the bear and the -bull, having arrived, a few taps by the drummer, and some popular airs -played by the other musicians, announced that the amphitheatre, which -fronted the church and stood but a few yards from it, was open for the -reception of those who desired admission. I made my way to the -ticket-office, and handed three dollars to the collector, who placed in -my hand a voucher, which gained me access to an eligible seat within the -inclosure. I found myself among the first who entered; and as it was -some time before the whole audience assembled, I had ample opportunities -to scan the characters who composed it, and to examine the arrangement -and disposition of things around me.</p> - -<p>The seats were very properly elevated so high above the arena that no -danger was likely to result from the furious animals; and I suppose five -thousand persons could have been conveniently<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_120">{120}</a></span> accommodated, though only -about three-fourths of that number were present. Among the auditory, I -noticed many Spanish maids and matrons, who manifested as much -enthusiasm and delight in anticipation of what was to follow as the most -enthusiastic sportsman on the ground. Crying children, too, in the arms -of self-satisfied and admiring mothers, were there, full of noise and -mischief, and a nuisance, as they always are, in theatres and churches, -to all sober-minded people. Of men, there were all sizes, colors and -classes, such as California, and California alone, can bring together. -There was but one, however, who attracted my particular attention on -this occasion. I had no recollection of having ever seen him before that -day. He sat a few feet from me on my left. There was nothing uncommon -about his form or features. The expression of his countenance was -neither intellectual nor amiable. His acquirements and attainments were -doubtless limited, for he demeaned himself rudely, and exhibited but -little dignity of manner. It was the strange metamorphosis he had -undergone since the morning which won for him my special observation. -Only four hours had elapsed since I saw him officiating at the altar and -feasting upon a substance which he believed to be the actual flesh and -blood of Jesus Christ, who died more than eighteen hundred years ago! In -the forenoon of the Lord’s day, he took upon himself the charac<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_121">{121}</a></span>ter of -God’s vicegerent, invested himself with sacerdotal robes, assumed a -sanctified visage, and discharged the sacred duties of his office. In -the afternoon of the same Sabbath, he doffed his holy orders, sanctioned -merciless diversions, mingled on terms of equality with gamblers and -desperados, and held himself in readiness to exclaim Bravo! at the -finale of a bull-fight.</p> - -<p>By this time the whooping, shouting and stamping of the spectators -attested that they were eager and restless to behold the brutal combat; -and an overture by a full brass band, which had been chartered for the -occasion, gave them assurance that their wishes would soon be complied -with. The music ceased; the trap-door of the bull’s cage was raised, and -“Hercules,” huge, brawny and wild, leaped into the centre of the -inclosed arena, shaking his head, switching his tail, and surveying the -audience with a savage stare that would have intimidated the stoutest -hearts, had he not been strongly barred below them. His eyes glistened -with defiance, and he seemed to crave nothing so much as an enemy upon -which he might wreak his vengeance. He contorted his body, lashed his -back, snuffed, snorted, pawed, bellowed, and otherwise behaved so -frantically, that I was fearful he could not contain himself until his -antagonist was prepared. Just then, two picadors—Mexicans on -horseback—entered the arena, with lassos in hand. Taurus<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_122">{122}</a></span> welcomed them -with an attitude of attack, and was about to rush upon one of their -horses with the force of a battering-ram, when, with most commendable -dexterity, the picador who was farthest off lassoed him by the horns, -and foiled him in his mad design. As quick as thought, the horseman from -whom the bull’s attention had been diverted, threw his lasso around his -horns also; and in this way they brought him to a stand midway between -them. A third person, a footman, now ran in, and seizing his tail, -twisted it until he fell flat on his side; when, by the help of an -additional assistant, the end of a long log-chain was fastened to his -right hind-leg. In this prostrated condition he was kept until the other -end of the chain was secured to the left fore-leg of the bear, as we -shall now describe.</p> - -<p>Running a pair of large clasping-tongs under Bruin’s trap-door, which -was lifted just enough for the purpose, they grasped his foot, pulled it -out, and held it firmly, while one of the party bound the opposite end -of the chain fast to his leg with thongs. This done, they hoisted the -trap-door sufficiently high to admit of his egress, when out stalked -“Trojan,” apparently too proud and disdainful to vouchsafe a glance upon -surrounding objects. He was a stalwart, lusty-looking animal, the -largest grizzly bear I had ever seen, weighing full fourteen hundred -pounds.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_123">{123}</a></span> It was said that he was an adept in conflicts of this nature, -as he then enjoyed the honorable reputation of having delivered three -bulls from the vicissitudes of this life. It is probable, however, that -his previous victories had flushed and inspired him with an -unwarrantable degree of confidence; for he seemed to regard the bull -more as a thing to be despised than as an equal or dangerous rival. -Though he gave vent to a few ferocious growls, it was evident that he -felt more inclination to resist an attack than to make one. With the -bull, the case was very different; he was of a pugnacious disposition, -and had become feverish for a foe. Now he had one. An adversary of -gigantic proportions and great prowess stood before him; and as soon as -he spied him, he moved backward, the entire length of the chain, which -jerked the bear’s foot and made him rend the air with a most fearful -howl, that served but the more to incense the bull. Shaking his head -maliciously, casting it down, and throwing up his tail, he plunged at -the bear with a force and fury that were irresistible. The collision was -terrible, completely overthrowing his ponderous enemy and laying him -flat on his back. Both were injured, but neither was conquered; both -mutually recoiled to prepare again to strike for victory. With eyes -gleaming with fire, and full of resolution, the bull strode proudly over -his prostrate enemy, and placed himself in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_124">{124}</a></span> position to make a second -attack. But now the bear was prepared to receive him; he had recovered -his feet wild with rage, and he then appeared to beckon to the bull to -meet him without delay. The bull needed no challenge; he was, if -possible, more impetuous than the bear, and did not lose any more time -than it required to measure the length of the chain. Again, with -unabated fierceness, he darted at the bear, and, as before, struck him -with an impetus that seemed to have been borrowed from Jove’s own -thunderbolt; as he came in contact with the bear, that amiable animal -grappled him by the neck, and squeezed him so hard that he could -scarcely save himself from suffocation. The bull now found himself in a -decidedly uncomfortable situation; the bear had him as he wanted him. -Powerful as he was, he could not break loose from Bruin. A vice could -not have held him more firmly. The strong arms of the bear hugged him in -a ruthless and desperate embrace. It was a stirring sight to see these -infuriated and muscular antagonists struggling to take each other’s -life. It was enough to make a heathen generalissimo shudder to look at -them. How ought it to have been, then, with enlightened civilians? This -question I shall not answer; it was easy enough to see how it was with -the Spanish ladies—they laughed, cheered, encored, clapped their hands, -waved their handkerchiefs, and made every other<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_125">{125}</a></span> sign which was -characteristic of pleasure and delight. The contending brutes still -strove together. Hercules quaked under the torturing hugs of Trojan. -Trojan howled under the violent and painful perforations of Hercules. -But the bear did not rely alone upon the efficacy of his arms; his -massive jaws and formidable teeth were brought into service, and with -them he inflicted deep wounds in his rival’s flesh. He seized the bull -between the ears and nostrils, and crushed the bones with such force -that we could distinctly hear them crack! Nor were the stunning butts of -the bull his only means of defence; his horns had been sharpened -expressly for the occasion, and with these he lacerated the bear most -frightfully. It was a mighty contest—a desperate struggle for victory!</p> - -<p>Finally, however, fatigued, exhausted, writhing with pain and weltering -in sweat and gore, they waived the quarrel and separated, as if by -mutual consent. Neither was subdued; yet both felt a desire to suspend, -for a time at least, all further hostilities. The bull, now exhausted -and panting, cast a pacific glance towards the bear, and seemed to sue -for an armistice; the bear, bleeding and languid after his furious -contest, raised his eyes to the bull, and seemed to assent to the -proposition. But, alas! man, cruel man, more brutal than the brutes -themselves, would not permit them to carry out their pacific -inten<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_126">{126}</a></span>tions. The two attendants or managers, Ignacio and Gomez, stepped -up behind them, goading them with spears till they again rushed upon -each other, and fought with renewed desperation. During this scuffle, -the bull shattered the lower jaw of the bear, and we could see the -shivered bones dangling from their bloody recesses! Oh, heaven! what a -horrible sight. How the blood curdled in my veins. Pish! what a timid -fellow I am, to allow myself to be agitated by such a trifle as this! -Shall I tremble at what the ladies applaud? Forbid it, Mars! I’ll be as -spirited as they. But, to wind up this part of our story, neither the -bear nor the bull could stand any longer—their limbs refused to support -their bodies; they had worried and lacerated each other so much that -their strength had completely failed, and they dropped upon the earth, -gasping as if in the last agony. While in this helpless condition the -chain was removed from their feet, horses were hitched to them, and they -were dragged without the arena, there to end their miseries in death.</p> - -<p>The second act of the afternoon’s entertainment was now to be performed. -It would be unnecessary, and painful to the feelings of sensitive -readers, to dwell long upon this murderous sport. It was a mere -repetition, in another form, of the disgusting horrors of that which -preceded it. Fully satiated with the barbarities I had<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_127">{127}</a></span> already -witnessed, I am not sure that I should have staid to see any more, had -it not been for the peculiar sensations which the cognomen of one of the -actors awakened within me. By reference to the advertisement, it will be -perceived that the two managers of this part of the proceedings were -Joaquin Vatreto and Jesus Alvarez. The latter name sounded strangely in -my ears. It occurred to me that it was peculiarly out of place in its -present connection. What! Jesus at a bull-fight on Sunday, and not only -at it, but one of the prime movers and abettors in it!</p> - -<p>But now to the fight. All things being ready, the great bull, Behemoth, -was freed from restraint, and sprang with frantic bounds into the midst -of the arena. He bore a suitable appellation, for he was a monster in -size and formidable in courage. Two picadors, Joaquin Vatreto and Jesus -Alvarez, mounted on fiery steeds, with swords in hand, now entered and -confronted him. Behemoth looked upon this sudden invasion as an -intolerable insult. His territory was already too limited for so -powerful a monarch as he considered himself, and he could not think of -dividing it with others. The sight of these unceremonious intruders -inflamed him with such rancor that he could no longer restrain himself; -but lowering his head and tossing his tail aloft, he rushed furiously at -them. They evaded his<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_128">{128}</a></span> charge. The horses were well trained, and seemed -to enjoy the sport, and to pride themselves upon their adroit manœuvres. -But both they and their riders had enough to do to evade the fury of the -enraged brute. Each successive bout became more animated and fierce. The -foiling of the bull’s purposes only exasperated him the more. There was -not room enough in his capacious body to contain his effervescing wrath. -The foam which he spurted from his mouth and nose fell upon the earth -like enormous flakes of snow. Faster and faster, and with truer aim, he -charged his foes. At last one of the horses, in attempting to wheel or -turn suddenly round, stumbled, and the bull, taking advantage of the -event, gored him so desperately in the abdomen that a part of his -entrails protruded from the wounds and trailed almost upon the ground! -This was truly a distressing scene. I could have wept for the poor, -innocent charger, but in this case tears were of no avail.</p> - -<p>One of the picadors now alighted, and engaged the attention of the bull, -while the other led the two horses outside the inclosure. When this was -done, a man on foot, called a matador, dressed in close-fitting, -fantastic garments, with a heavy sword in his right hand, and a small -red flag in his left, entered the arena and bowed first to the bull and -then to the audience. It was now a matter of life and death between the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_129">{129}</a></span> -bull and the matador. One or the other, or both, must die. If the bull -did not kill the man, the man would kill the bull; if the man killed the -bull, the man was to live, but if the bull killed the man, the bull was -to die; so that death was sure to overtake the bull in any event. The -action commenced, and waxed hotter and hotter every moment, and it was -only by uncommon skill and agility that the matador could shun the -frenzied charges of the bull. Had it not been for the flag which he -carried in his hand, and which enabled him to deceive his antagonist by -seeming to hold it directly before him, when in reality he inclined it -to the right or to the left, as his safety dictated, the bull would -unquestionably have dashed his brains out, thrown him over his head, or -gored him to death. Nothing could have irritated or vexed the bull more -than did the sight of this red flag, and he made all his assaults upon -it, supposing, no doubt, that he would strike the mischief behind it, -but the agile matador always took special care to spring aside and save -himself from the deadly stroke. After tormenting, teasing and chafing -him for about a quarter of an hour in this way, six keen javelins or -darts, with miniature flags attached, were handed to the matador, who -ventured to face the bull, and never quit him until he had planted them -all in his shoulders, three in each. Stung to madness, the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_130">{130}</a></span> animal -reared, rolled and plunged in the most frightful manner. Soon, however, -he was on his feet again, pursuing his persecutor with renewed zeal.</p> - -<p>The fates, however, were against him. He could not comprehend, and -consequently could not foil the crafty designs of his adversary, who -completely deceived him with the flag. Night was now coming on, and it -being time to close the performance, the matador, placing himself in a -pompous attitude near the south side of the arena, challenged Behemoth -to the last and decisive engagement by waving the flag briskly before -him. The bull, exasperated beyond description, needed no additional -incentive to urge him to meet the enemy. With a force apparently equal -to that of a rhinoceros, and with the celerity of a reindeer, he rushed -at the matador, who, stepping just sufficiently to the left to avoid -him, thrust the sword into his breast up to the hilt. The matador, -leaving this sword buried in the bull’s body, now laid hold of another, -which was on hand for the purpose, and stabbed him three times in a more -vital part, when down he fell at his victor’s feet, dead. Then jumping -upon the carcass of his slain rival, the matador brandished his sword, -doffed his hat, bowed his compliments, and retired, amid the deafening -plaudits of a wolfish audience.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_131">{131}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">SACRAMENTO.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Sacramento</span> is situated on the river and in the heart of the valley of -the same name, about one hundred miles north-east of San Francisco. It -is the second city in the State in size, population and commerce, and -contains from eight to ten thousand inhabitants—being nearly one fourth -as large as San Francisco. It bears to San Francisco much the same -relation that Columbia does to Charleston, or Albany to New York. From -two to six steamboats daily ply between the two cities, conveying -passengers and merchandise; and a vast deal of heavy freight is shipped -in sailing vessels, which usually make the outward and return trip in a -little over a week. The banks of the river are very low, and the current -moves sluggishly towards the ocean. Flood-tide ascends almost as high as -this place. The country, for twenty-five miles on either side of the -river, is an unbroken plain, level as a floor, and would be invaluable -for agricultural purposes were it not for the great freshets of the -winter and spring, and the incessant drought of the summer and fall—two -serious disadvantages<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_132">{132}</a></span> to the farmer. Sometimes the whole valley is -completely overflowed and remains under water for two or three -consecutive months, on which occasions it presents the appearance of a -vast lake. Many new immigrants, who are ignorant of the freaks of -California seasons, arriving here in the summer, settle in this valley, -and thank their stars that they were guided to an unclaimed plat of so -much promise. But when winter comes and the windows of heaven are -opened, and the river rises, and the cattle are drowned and the houses -swept off, and they themselves compelled to fly to the upland to save -their lives, they begin to discover the gloomy fact that they have been -caught in a snare.</p> - -<p>The site of the city, so smooth and flat, would be one of the most -beautiful in the world, but for the lack of sufficient elevation. For -the first two or three years after its settlement the inhabitants did -nothing to protect it from the floods, but afterwards, becoming tired of -navigating the streets in scows and skiffs, and willing to retain some -of their goods and chattels about their premises, they built a temporary -levee, which has since kept them tolerably dry. It is laid out with the -most perfect regularity; its blocks and streets being as uniform and -methodical as the squares of a chess-board. Those streets which run from -north to south have alphabetical names, beginning with A, and end<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_133">{133}</a></span>ing -with Z. Only four of them, I, J, K and L, are popular; the others -command no business whatever, and but very few dwellings are situated on -them. The cross-streets, or those which run from east to west, are -designated arithmetically, commencing with 1st and continuing on in -regular succession. Beyond 7th street, however, there are no buildings -of any importance.</p> - -<p>At present the legislature meets in this place; but as that august body -is possessed of a remarkably roving disposition, having held its -sessions at four different places within the last four years, at an -extra expense to the State of nearly two hundred thousand dollars, it is -yet uncertain whether this will be determined upon as the permanent -capital. There is no capitol or state-house, nor is it likely that -California will ever be able to build one while its finances are so -recklessly managed. The receipts and expenditures of the State have, -from the organization of its government to the present time, been -intrusted to men who, to say nothing of their dishonesty, were as -ignorant of the uses of money as a prodigal minor. Consequently they -have entailed a public debt upon the people of more than three millions -of dollars without effecting any general improvements excepting a marine -hospital. This distinguished body, which now holds its deliberations in -the court-house, contains some of the most precious scamps that ever -paid devotion to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_134">{134}</a></span> the god of pelf; and, were it not that I have no wish -to deal in personalities, I could here mention names which are -notoriously infamous all over the Atlantic States. Are such men capable -of devising measures for the public weal, or fit to enact laws for the -commonwealth? Whether fit or unfit, they are about the only class of -persons who are intrusted with the functions of legislation in this -abominable land of concentrated rascality. The people of California, as -a general thing, would as soon elect an honest, upright man to office, -as Italian banditti would choose a moralist for their captain. No one -here can be successful unless he assimilates himself to the people; he -must carouse with villains, attend Sunday horse-races and bull-fights, -and adapt himself to every species of depravity and dissipation.</p> - -<p>Thus must a man discipline himself before he can receive the support and -patronage of the public. It matters not what his occupation may be, -whether merchant, mechanic, lawyer or doctor, he is sure to be -ostracized, if he stands aloof from the vices and follies of the -populace. Of course there are a few exceptions. Some men, thank heaven, -have an innate abhorrence of every thing that savors of meanness or -vulgarity, and they have nerve enough to cling to their principles at -all times and in all places. No earthly power, even if backed by -reinforcements from the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_135">{135}</a></span> infernal regions, could make them swerve from -their fidelity to truth and justice. They have clearly defined ideas of -right and wrong, and regulate their lives and conduct accordingly. They -understand their duty, and endeavor to perform it. They see the evils of -society, condemn and eschew them. There are a few such men in -California, but they are discountenanced, neglected, sneered at, and -flouted with opprobrious epithets. They are in bad odor; the majority is -against them. The scoundrels are in power, and they have wrecked the -country. To-day the State is lawless, penniless and powerless. Such is -the effect of the union of two bad things—a bad people and a bad -country. It was necessary in the first place, to give even a passable -character to the State, that the administration of affairs should have -been committed to men of pre-eminent sagacity; but instead of pursuing -this policy, the common interests have been confided to political -charlatans, whose actions in every instance have been detrimental to the -interests of the country. As a poor client suffers in the hands of a -pettifogger, or as a patient laboring under an obscure and dangerous -disease, sinks under the treatment of a quack, so has this poor, sick -California suffered and sunk through the agency of her knavish managers.</p> - -<p>Leaving these wire-pulling senators and hireling assemblymen, let us -take a short stroll<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_136">{136}</a></span> through one or two of the principal streets. We -shall not observe any thing either curious or commendable in the styles -of architecture. The houses are low, rarely exceeding two stories in -height, and are built mostly of wood in the very cheapest manner. All -the lumber used in their construction was brought from Oregon, first to -San Francisco, and thence reshipped to this place. Here and there stands -a plain but uncommonly stout and substantial brick store. I have never -seen any buildings in the Atlantic States equal, in durability and -security against fire, to the brick structures in California. They must -build them so, for reasons heretofore given. Stone is not used at all; -there is none in the vicinity.</p> - -<p>As we wend our way through the town, we pass dozens of miserable, filthy -little hotels, in any of which we can procure a bad meal for a dollar. A -palatable dinner in one of the more respectable hotels will cost us -twice that amount. We shall be considerably amused at the queer and -unique canvas signs nailed over the doors of some of the dirty little -huts and shanties around us. One of the taverns announces that it has -“Tip-top Accommodations for Man and Beast;” at another we can find “Good -Fare, and Plenty of it;” a third promises “Rest for the Weary and -Storage for Trunks;” a fourth invites us to “Come in the Inn, and take a -Bite;<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_137">{137}</a></span>” a fifth informs us that “Eating is done here;” a sixth assures -us that “We have Rich Viands and Mellow Drinks;” while a seventh -admonishes us to “Replenish the Stomach in our House.” A bar, at which -all kinds of liquors, raw and mixed, pure and sophisticated, are dealt -out, is attached to each of these establishments; and it is generally a -greater source of profit to the proprietor than the table. Small straw -cots, with coarse blankets, which have never been submitted to any -cleansing process, are provided for the guests to sleep on; and when -they retire, they seldom remove any of their clothes, except their -coats, and sometimes not even those. In the morning, when they rise to -perform their ablutions, a single wash-pan answers for all, and one -towel, redolent of a week’s wiping, serves every guest.</p> - -<p>More than two-thirds of the population of the northern part of the State -lay in their supplies of provisions, clothing and mining implements at -this place; and we shall notice several teams and pack-trains in the -streets, loading and preparing to start on their journey. Mules and oxen -are chiefly used, though for hauling short distances over good roads -horses are employed. Some of the more remote mining districts, say two -hundred miles from this place, are so rugged and mountainous that it is -impossible to reach them with wagons or other vehicles, and the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_138">{138}</a></span> only -means of transporting merchandise is upon the backs of mules. These -hybrids, unamiable as is their appearance, are truly valuable for this -purpose; they carry ponderous burdens, walk with ease upon the brink of -a precipice, and can be kept in good serviceable condition by provender -on which a horse would starve. After making a few trips they become very -tractable, and it requires only four or five men to manage fifty or -sixty of them. The packers have but little trouble with them, after -strapping the loads on their backs and starting them off. They do not go -abreast, but each follows closely behind another, Indian fashion; and -they will travel patiently in this way from morning till night, rarely -ever attempting a stampede.</p> - -<p>Between the petty merchants who sell goods to those teamsters and -muleteers, there is great rivalry and competition. I call them petty -merchants because there are so many more of them than the business -justifies or demands, that each one secures but a small share of the -custom; and they have to resort to the most contemptible devices to pay -current expenses. Indeed I do not believe half of them earn their -support. The reader may think this strange, and wonder why men continue -in an occupation which does not yield them a maintenance. They do not -continue in it; their losses soon compel them to leave; but the -departure of one victim only opens the way for<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_139">{139}</a></span> the arrival of another. -Their stands are immediately occupied by novices who, after the lapse of -a few months, sink under the same fate that overwhelmed their luckless -predecessors. Such is the routine of affairs all over the State. I have -never known the time here when business was not clogged with double the -number of traders it required. Ever since San Francisco and Sacramento -were founded they have been overwhelmed with merchants, and this has -been the case with every other city and town of any note throughout the -State. In commercial circles you hear continual complaints of the -dullness of the times. The merchants are always grumbling because they -have nothing to do, and wondering when their business will improve. They -live on the airy diet of hope; their good time is ever dancing before -them, but never waits for them. It entices them on and then eludes -them,—they reach after gold and find dross.</p> - -<p>One reason why there is such an excess of business men, is, because -American and European strangers, who have been led into the mistaken -opinion that trading is profitable in California, are continually -arriving with heavy stocks of goods, and opening new shops or going into -the old ones, just vacated by those who could no longer sustain -themselves under the pressure of the times. In this way the humbug is -eternally nourished. As soon as one simpleton sacrifices<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_140">{140}</a></span> his effects -and retires, “a sadder and a wiser man,” another fool steps in and takes -his place. Question the New York, Baltimore and Boston shippers -concerning the result of their ventures, and they will tell a doleful -story. Ask the Liverpool, Bordeaux and Hamburg consignors to show the -account sales of their factors, and they will anathematize the inquirer -and California in the same breath. Now and then, it is true, when the -markets are low, as they sometimes are, a shipment turns out lucrative -beyond anticipation; but when such a thing occurs it is a mere matter of -chance, and one gainful shipment occasions scores of unprofitable ones. -Dependent as the State is upon importations for all that she consumes or -requires for use, it must be expected that the markets will be very -fluctuating and changeable,—at any rate, it is so. The price of any -article does not remain the same two weeks at a time. There is almost -always a superfluity of merchandise in market; the supply is generally -double the demand, and many things are sold at less than prime cost. -Yet, by the time this merchandise falls into the hands of the actual -consumer, it usually costs him from one to four hundred per cent. more -than he would have to pay for it in the Atlantic States. The consignee -will probably sell it to a speculator—the speculator to a wholesale -merchant—the wholesale merchant to a jobber—the jobber to a -re<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_141">{141}</a></span>tailer—the retailer to a muleteer, and the muleteer to the final -purchaser or consumer. Or the importer may sell it to the city grocer, -whose onerous rent makes it necessary for him to re-sell at an -extraordinary advance on invoice rates to defray expenses. Thus the -charges accruing on it, after its arrival, render it very costly.</p> - -<p>I might cite instances of the perfidy and dishonesty of California -merchants; but it would be like taking an inventory of the exact number -of blades of grass in a meadow in order to get at the weeds by -subtraction,—it would be easier to reverse the task. It would require -less time to tell of those who have been true to their trusts. I know -one man in San Francisco who received a consignment of nearly twelve -thousand dollars worth of merchandise from his brother in New York. He -placed it in an auction house—had it sold for what it would -bring—appropriated the proceeds to his own use, and wrote back to his -brother that all the goods had been destroyed by fire. His brother heard -of his unfaithfulness, came on to San Francisco and reasoned with him; -but could neither bring him to terms nor find law that would compel the -performance of a common obligation. The defrauded brother returned home -without recovering a cent of his dues. Another New Yorker consigned -twenty thousand dollars worth of merchandise to two different commission -houses (ten thousand to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_142">{142}</a></span> each,) with limited instructions—that is, not -to sell for less than a certain sum. The factors received the goods, -hurried them through the market, put the funds in their pockets, and -wrote to the consignor, informing him that his ventures had been -consumed by fire, and sympathizing with him in his losses! Before long, -however, the shipper was made acquainted with the villainy of his -agents, and applied to the courts for redress; but this was only -employing a rogue to catch a rouge. After a deal of expense and delay, -the case was dismissed. A whole cargo of wares and merchandise, valued -at a trifle less than three hundred thousand dollars, was intrusted to -another man, who disposed of it and absconded with the money.</p> - -<p>But why detail these swindling transactions? Volumes upon volumes might -be filled with accounts of the crimes and short-comings of this wretched -country; but their perusal would only be productive of abhorrence and -disgust. If, reader, you would know California, you must go live there. -It is impossible for me to give, or for you to receive a correct -impression of it on paper,—like Thomas, the unbelieving disciple, you -must <i>see</i> and <i>feel</i> before you can be convinced.</p> - -<p>On the night of the 2d of November, 1852, Sacramento was almost entirely -destroyed by fire. Twenty-two hundred buildings, with other property, -valued at ten millions of dollars, were com<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_143">{143}</a></span>pletely reduced to ashes. -The wind was blowing very hard at the time the fire commenced, and the -roaring of the flames, the rapidity with which they spread, the -explosions of gunpowder, as house after house was blown up, formed a -scene rarely excelled in terrific grandeur. Men, women and children ran -to and fro in the greatest confusion, excited almost to frenzy, in the -effort to save their lives and effects. Within six hours after the fire -first broke out, more than nine-tenths of the city were swept into -oblivion, and the people were left to sleep on the naked earth without -any shelter but the clothing they had on. Happening, too, just at the -commencement of the rainy season, this conflagration was peculiarly -disastrous, as thousands were deprived not only of shelter, but also of -the means of securing a comfortable living. Provisions at the time were -scarcer than I ever knew them before, or have known them since; and the -extraordinarily high prices which they commanded almost precluded the -poorer classes from buying or using them at all. Flour sold at forty-two -dollars per barrel, pork at fifty-five, and other eatables in about the -same ratio. Farther in the interior the times were still harder. In some -of the distant mining localities flour and pork sold as high as three -dollars per pound—equal to five hundred and eighty-eight dollars per -barrel; and could not be had in sufficient quantities even at these -rates.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_144">{144}</a></span> Many then suffered the pangs of insatiable hunger; and I have -seen children crying to their parents for bread, when there was none to -give them.</p> - -<p>A California conflagration is a scene of the most awful grandeur that -the mind is capable of conceiving. When fire is once communicated to the -buildings, especially if it be in the dry season, when the winds rage -and every thing is crisped by the sun, it does not smoulder, but blazing -high in the air, and spreading far and wide, it consumes every thing -within its reach, and leaves nothing behind but cinders and desolation. -No one of the present day, out of California, has ever seen such -pyramids of flame. One of the most beautiful sights I ever beheld was -during a large fire in San Francisco. It was a moonless night, and there -was nothing visible in the dark concave of heaven, save a few twinkling -stars. Others were concealed by the detached masses of floating vapor -which obscured them. Soon after the conflagration commenced, the -brilliant illumination attracted large flocks of brant from the -neighboring marshes; and as they flew hither and thither, high over the -flaming element, they shone and glistened as if they had been winged -balls of fire darting through the air. Had their plumage been burnished -gold, they could not have been more radiant.</p> - -<p>Before taking our final leave of Sacramento,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_145">{145}</a></span> we must not fail to get a -glimpse of the Three Cent Philosopher, a Mormon polygamist, who figures -conspicuously in this city as an extortionate usurer. He was born in the -State of New York, near the hallowed spot where Jo Smith received his -apostolic diploma. The Three Cent Philosopher does not carry so small a -purse as his common appellation might seem to indicate; he is the -wealthiest man in the place, and is as tenacious of his property as of -his life. It is supposed that he is worth very near half a million of -dollars. Though he believes in polygamy, and practices it, yet he never -lives with more than one spouse at a time; to have them all around him -at once would be too expensive.</p> - -<p>When his wife goes out shopping he gives her fifty cents, and if she -happens to bring back one-tenth of the amount, he takes it from her and -locks it up in his safe. When he travels on a steamboat he always takes -deck passage, and carries food in his pockets to avoid the extra expense -of dining at the table. While passing through the streets he keeps a -vigilant lookout for stray nails, old horse-shoes, pieces of bagging and -other refuse, which he picks up, lugs home and deposits in his -repository of odds and ends. Instead of chairs, he sits on stools and -boxes of his own make; and, in place of coffee, he drinks parched barley -tea or watered milk. His disposition is quite as sweet as wormwood, and -his<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_146">{146}</a></span> household is usually a scene of as much calm and domestic bliss as -a family of tomcats. He is in the habit of bickering with his family at -least once every day, and when he does so he rouses the whole -neighborhood with the noise of his oaths and imprecations. In all -probability he is a lineal descendant of Ishmael, the son of Hagar, for -his hand is against every man and every man’s hand is against him. He is -at enmity with all the world and is despised by every body. If his -neighbor looks at him, he curses him, and if an acquaintance says -good-morning to him, he tells him to go to h—ll. He has never been -known to entertain a charitable thought towards his fellow-men, nor to -speak a good word concerning his nearest relations. To sum up all, he is -the extract of ill-breeding, the essence of vulgarity, and the -quintessence of meanness.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_147">{147}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">YUBA—THE MINER’S TENT.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">My</span> first experience in mining was obtained on the banks of the Yuba -river, a small tributary of the Feather, which is itself a branch of the -Sacramento. Our party, in a stage-coach, left Sacramento city early in -the morning; we traveled due north until late in the afternoon, when we -arrived at Marysville, a city containing eight or nine thousand -inhabitants, and situated at the confluence of the Yuba and Feather -rivers. It was in July, and the roads were four to six inches deep in -dust, which seemed to be as fine as bolted flour, and was so volatile -that it rose in a dense cloud as we passed through it. The heat of the -sun was oppressive in the extreme, and by the time we got to the place -mentioned above, our persons were so besmeared with dust and -perspiration that it was no easy matter for a stranger to determine our -natural color.</p> - -<p>I could have made the trip by water, as there is steamboat communication -between Sacramento and Marysville daily; but having sailed up the river -as high as this place once before on a pleasure excursion, I preferred -the land route for the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_148">{148}</a></span> sake of seeing the country. I was disappointed, -however; for, as the distance between the two cities is a mere -continuation of the Sacramento valley, I saw nothing materially -different from the purlieus of the city I had left. The surface of the -valley is remarkably level, and is sparsely timbered with scrubby oaks -and other gnarled trees of uncommon form. Nor is there any thing of -unusual interest to be seen in Marysville. Sacramento is its prototype, -and it has been modeled after that city with scrupulous exactness. I -never saw two places more alike.</p> - -<p>By means of the same conveyance that carried us to Marysville, we -resumed our northern journey early in the morning of the succeeding day, -and by twelve o’clock we reached the place of our destination. We were -now on Long Bar, a popular mining place, divided and watered by the -Yuba. Two miles beyond is Park’s Bar, which I had visited on a previous -occasion; but this was the first time I had ever entered the mines for -the purpose of digging gold. Now, however, I had come to try my luck, -and to see what the gnomes and fairies would do for me.</p> - -<p>Once fairly started in a miner’s life, I could not completely steel -myself against the extravagant hopes which seemed to float in the very -atmosphere of the mines. Wild and extravagant fancies would in spite of -me obtrude themselves upon what I thought a well-balanced mind. Nor<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_149">{149}</a></span> -were these reveries by any means unnatural, unreasonable though they -might be. Thousands of miners have, from time to time, indulged hopes -equally impalpable and transitory. I was standing over deposits of gold, -and who could tell how large they were, or how easily they might be -found? Who knew but that I should dig from these hills more wealth than -was ever locked up in the vaults of the Rothschilds?</p> - -<p>I had supplied myself with abundance of provisions, a pair of good -blankets, and every needful mining implement. Being in what is called -surface diggings, that is, on a spot where the gold lies near the -surface of the earth, I could perform all the necessary manipulations -myself. I noticed that those around did not delve deeper than from three -to four feet in this place. It did not pay to go lower; and whether it -paid to dig at all, will be seen hereafter. My implements consisted of a -pick, a spade, a pan, a bucket, a cradle and a wheelbarrow. The -<i>cradle</i>, though rudely made and of rude material, was a very good one, -and I have since regretted that I did not keep it and bring it with me, -as it would have answered a domestic purpose quite as well as a more -costly one. The modus operandi of single-handed mining may be described -in a few words. The earth is loosened with the pick, thrown into the -wheelbarrow with the spade, rolled to the river, emptied into the -cradle,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_150">{150}</a></span> washed by pouring water over it from the bucket, and carefully -rocked until the gold is separated from the dirt. The clods of earth, -during this process of washing, slowly dissolve, or are suspended in the -water, whereupon the gold, (if there is any,) being heaviest, sinks to -the bottom. All the contents of the cradle are then turned out, except a -thin layer at the bottom, which is supposed to contain the precious -metal. The next and last process is to scoop this layer into the pan, -and wash and rewash it until the dirt is entirely separated from the -gold. A sieve, or rather a piece of punctured or perforated sheet-iron, -which catches the larger stones and other insoluble substances, is fixed -about midway the depth of the cradle. The gold is generally found in -small particles about the size of grains of sand, sometimes not half so -large, sometimes much larger. The size of the grains, as well as the -quantity, depends very much upon the locality. No lumps larger than a -small pea were obtained from this bar.</p> - -<p>Fearing that I might make a fortune immediately, and return to the city -without learning how the gold gleaners live, I determined not to -commence operations until I had scrutinized the whole bar, tents, -miners, mining and all. Indeed it was necessary for me to converse with -some of the miners, in order to acquaint myself with their laws -respecting claims, dams and wa<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_151">{151}</a></span>ter. All surface diggings, when marked -out, or laid off in small plats, are called bars; and these bars are -known by distinctive names, as, for instance, Rocky Bar, Steep Bar, -Sandy Bar, &c. The name is not always derived from a peculiarity of the -place. Frequently they are called by the names of the men who first -discovered gold on them, as Brown’s Bar, Hall’s Bar, Drake’s Bar; and -sometimes they take their names from an important event that occurred at -or near them at the time they were opened, as Highwayman’s Bar, Rioter’s -Bar, Murderer’s Bar. Among the more fanciful names that designate -localities in various parts of the mines are the following: Whiskey Bar, -Humbug Creek, One Horse Town, Mississippi Quarters, Mad Ox Ravine, Mad -Mule Canon, Skunk Flat, Woodpecker Hill, Jesus Maria, Yankee Jim’s -Diggings, Death Pass, Ignis Fatuus Placer, Devil’s Retreat, Bloody Bend, -Jackass Gulch, Hell’s Half Acre.</p> - -<p>Every Bar is governed by such laws as the majority of the miners see fit -to enact, not by written or published documents, but by verbal -understanding. All the mines are public property, that is, they belong -to the United States government, which, in its suicidal liberality, -exercises comparatively no jurisdiction over them. So far as the general -government is concerned, Chinese marauders and foreign cut-throats have -the same rights and privileges guaranteed to<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_152">{152}</a></span> them, in this matter, as -American citizens. Besides the enormous sums of money that the federal -government paid for California, it did a great deal of hard fighting, -and now has to keep a body of troops stationed there to prevent the -Indians from desolating the country; but aliens, who bear no part of the -burden, and who refuse to become permanent settlers or citizens, are -permitted, nay, encouraged, to come in on an equal footing. No tax is -levied upon them. They are protected from the Indians by our soldiery, -and share all the benefits with the native citizens; yet they are not -required to aid in defraying the common expenses. It can hardly be -doubted that this is bad policy? Would it not be bad management in a -father, after having bought a farm, to let strangers come in and carry -off the fruits of the soil, to the detriment and impoverishment of his -own children? If so, then our government, as a general mother, is doubly -culpable.</p> - -<p>Almost every Bar is governed by a different code of laws, and the sizes -of the claims vary according to locality. In one place a man may hold -twice, thrice, or even quadruple the number of feet that are allowed him -in another. One fourth of an acre is an average-sized claim. The -discoverer of new diggings is awarded a double or triple share, or only -an equal part, as a majority of those on the ground shall determine. Two -claims cannot be held by one person at the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_153">{153}</a></span> same time, except by -purchase. If a man lets his claim go unworked a certain number of days, -say five, eight or ten, he forfeits it, and any other person is at -liberty to take possession of it. When a miner wishes to quit his claim -only for a few days, he stacks his tools upon it, notifies two or three -adjoining neighbors of his intention, and goes where he pleases. If he -returns within the time prescribed by the laws of the Bar, he is -entitled to resume his claim; but if he is absent a day longer, it falls -to the first person, without a claim, who may happen to find it. There -is more real honesty and fairness among the miners than any other class -of people in California. Taken as a body, they are a plain, -straight-forward, hard-working set of men, who attend to their own -business without meddling in the affairs of others; and I have found as -guileless hearts amongst them as ever throbbed in mortal bosom. Genuine -magnanimity or nobleness of soul, when found at all in California, must -be sought among the miners—especially among those who are farthest -removed from the contaminating influences of idlers and gamblers.</p> - -<p>Drones and sluggards—things in the shape of men, who are too lazy to -work for an honest living—are the chief authors of the horrible crimes -that have rendered this country so odious and despicable. They are the -persons who are always creating disturbances; cheating, robbing<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_154">{154}</a></span> and -murdering; and there is such a legion of them that no place is exempt -from their presence. Wherever there is money they may be seen skulking -around it; and if they cannot filch it from the rightful owner by -intrigue or artifice, they will do it by more violent measures. They -lurk behind the poor drudging miner, even in the farthest gorges of the -mountains, and there butcher him, that they may avail themselves of his -hard-earned treasures. An incident of this nature, which terminated most -admirably, occurred near this place but a few days before my arrival. A -highwayman met a miner in an unfrequented place, and, with a cocked -pistol pointing towards him, demanded, “Your gold this instant, sir, or -your life!” “Hold! you shall have it,” exclaimed the miner, when quickly -thrusting his hand into his breast pocket, as if feeling for his purse, -he drew his own revolver and shot the would-be assassin dead upon the -spot.</p> - -<p>While reconnoitering the bar, I made excuses to call on several miners -who happened to be in their tents. As for the tents themselves, though -nearly all of the same size, they differ very much in appearance and -quality. A great many are made of duck or white canvas; while others are -built of stunted saplings, which grow sparsely throughout the mining -region. Those constructed of the latter material are about the size and -shape of a common hog-pen, with a stick and<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_155">{155}</a></span> mud chimney, which very -frequently has a headless whiskey barrel stuck in the top for a funnel. -These are the best and most comfortable domicils about the mines; and it -is only when miners, or a combination of miners, have large claims, -which afford them steady employment for a considerable length of time, -that they are enabled to build them. There being no planks, boards, -slabs, nor other sawn or hewn timbers, the poles are covered with brush -or coarse cloth, and sometimes with raw-hides. The ground is the floor -in all cases. No chimney nor whiskey-barrel flue graces the gable-end of -the canvas tent; it is merely a temporary shelter from the scorching -rays of the sun and the chilling dews of the night. Until the miner is -successful enough to secure a good claim and build himself a hovel, of -course he is compelled to sleep under the roof which canopied Adam and -Eve, and he must take his chances of the tarantula and of the assassin.</p> - -<p>The interior of the miner’s tent corresponds to its exterior. Spread -upon the ground, on one side, we see a pair of rumpled blankets, upon -which he sleeps. They are thoroughly saturated with mud and dust, and -have never been shaken, switched nor sunned since their place was -assigned them. Scattered here and there, about the edges of the -blankets, lie several of Paul de Kock’s and Eugene Sue’s yellow-backed -novels,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_156">{156}</a></span> whose soiled margins and dog-eared leaves give evidence that -they are not allowed to go unread. Something less than half a dozen -packs of cards are within reach, while three or four old stumps or -chunks of wood, employed as substitutes for chairs, occupy random -positions about the floor. In one corner is a keg of brandy or whiskey, -and in another the cooking apparatus and provisions. As for tables, -delft-ware, knives and forks, or any thing of that kind, there are none. -The miner always carries his pistol and bowie knife by his side day and -night, and with the latter weapon, aided by his fingers, he reduces his -food to convenient morsels.</p> - -<p>His cooking utensils consist of a frying-pan and a pot, neither of -which, except in rare instances, is ever washed. The pot is mostly used -for boiling pork and beans, and the old scum and scales that accumulate -on the inside from one ebullition serve as seasoning to the next. Pork -and beans are two of the principal articles of diet with miners, partly -because they are comparatively cheaper than other provisions, and partly -on account of their being so nutritious and wholesome. The beans, -especially, are very fine; they are imported from Chili, and are -superior to any I ever saw in the Atlantic States. By boiling as much at -one time as the pot will hold, the miner generally saves himself the -trouble of preparing these articles of food oftener<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_157">{157}</a></span> than twice a week. -When cooked to suit him, he sets the pot on one side, leaving the -contents in it uncovered; this is his pantry, and out of it he makes his -meals from time to time, until all is consumed, when he replenishes it -with a fresh supply of the same kind. Flap-jacks are very frequently -used in lieu of bread. They are a combination of flour and water, fried -in such grease as can be extracted from the pork; or, if the miner has -no pork, he bakes them as he would other thin cakes of dough. If he is -not too far removed from a depot of general provisions, he will probably -keep a bottle of molasses, which may be seen by the side of the -frying-pan, unstopped, and containing an amount of flies and ants nearly -equal to that of the saccharine juice. These entrapped insects do not -seem to come within the scope of his observation, as he never attempts -to clear his bottle of them. He is not very squeamish about his diet.</p> - -<p>It is but seldom that the miner suspends labor on Sunday if his claim is -a rich one; but if it is poor, he usually lets it rest on that day, -while he does his washing and mending. I have already said that he -carries his bowie-knife and revolver with him day and night. There is -scarcely an exception to this rule; ninety-nine out of every hundred are -thus armed, and this accounts for the fatal result of almost every -altercation. No matter what it is that occasions<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_158">{158}</a></span> disputes between men, -whether slight misunderstandings or grave difficulties, few words are -bandied before they appeal to their weapons, and the life of one or the -other is sure to be lost in the fracas,—sometimes both are killed. This -barbarous practice of carrying deadly weapons is not alone confined to -the miners; you rarely find a merchant, mechanic, lawyer doctor, or man -of any other calling in California, who does not keep them concealed -about him. By a calculation, based upon fair estimates, I learn that -since California opened her mines to the world, she has invested upwards -of six millions of dollars in bowie-knives and pistols—pretty -playthings to give to her children!</p> - -<p>Having surveyed and examined the bar, and all that pertained to it, to -my satisfaction, I constructed a small canvas tent, and the next day -began to search the earth in quest of gold. Though I was not reared in -idleness, this was my first lesson in real hard labor. Here, in the -summer season, the thermometer ranging from 90 to 105 degrees of -Fahrenheit in the shade, mining, when diligently and assiduously -prosecuted, is certainly the most toilsome employment in the world. I -imagine that the tillage of sugar-fields is pastime compared with it, -and that the African slaves who gather coffee in Brazil, have no -adequate conception of hardwork.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_159">{159}</a></span></p> - -<p>For three months I applied myself to my tools and claim with all the -energy of my nature—digging, shoveling and rocking, with the snarls of -grizzly hears to lull me to sleep at night, and the howls of hungry -wolves to regale my ears at the break of day. With all this wear and -tear of body and mind, my account-current of proceeds and expenditures -stood, at the expiration of that time, giving myself no credit for -either loss of time or physical exhaustion, just ninety-three and -three-quarter cents—balance on hand! This was building a palace with a -vengeance! A net profit of ninety-three and a quarter cents in three -months, being “two and six-pence” per month, or a fraction over a cent a -day.</p> - -<p>Hope, however, did not forsake me, and besides that, (shall I confess -it?) I felt a sort of malignant satisfaction that I was not alone in my -disappointments. I found consolation in the misfortune of others! When I -looked around me, and saw scores of dirty, hungry, ragged, long-haired -miners, who had toiled and labored like plantation negroes, on this and -other bars, for more than two years, and who could not command as much -as five dollars to save their lives, it buoyed me up, and made me better -satisfied with my own ill-luck. The feeling that thus manifested itself -may have been worthy of censure, but I am sure it was natural, for no -energetic or enterprising man likes to see his neigh<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_160">{160}</a></span>bor out-do him, or -surpass him in the acquisition of wealth—especially if their chances -and opportunities have always been the same. If I had not been -unsuccessful myself, I should not have chuckled over the corresponding -misfortunes of others; but, to be candid, feeling that my devotion and -application to business entitled me to a reasonable share of prosperity, -I had but little sympathy for my fellow-miners, who, being no more -worthy of reward than myself, failed in their efforts to excel me. I -said I had but little sympathy for them. I had some. It grieved me to -see so many stout, athletic men undergoing so many privations and -discomforts, wasting their time in unprofitable schemes, only to be at -last subjected to the most galling disappointments.</p> - -<p>The time had now come, however, for other thoughts and considerations. A -change of location seemed to be necessary. The profits of mining did not -warrant longer continuance at this place. It occurred to me that the sum -of ninety-three and three-quarter cents was but indifferent remuneration -for three months’ herculean labor. I wished to have nothing to do with -this lying equivalent, so handing it over, with my compliments, to a -poor, needy, hungry-looking neighbor, I shook the dust from my feet and -departed, after the manner of Lot when he left Sodom, not deigning to -look behind—not for fear, however, of being turned into a pillar of -gold.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_161">{161}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">STOCKTON AND SONORA.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">I have</span> perambulated the streets of San Francisco, Sacramento, Marysville -and Stockton; but of all the California cities, after San Francisco, -Stockton is my choice. It is named in honor of Commodore R. F. Stockton, -and is situated on a tributary of the San Joaquin river, which empties -into the Suisun Bay, opening into the Bay of San Francisco. Being but a -little over one hundred miles to the east of San Francisco, it enjoys -the advantages of daily steamboat communication with that place; but -owing to the narrow banks of the stream and the shallowness of the -water, the vessels are much smaller than those employed upon the -Sacramento. It contains from six to seven thousand inhabitants. Though -only the fourth city in the State in population, it is the third in -business. All the residents of the southern mines draw their supplies -from it; and as it is blessed with a mild climate, it is frequently -resorted to by those who seek pastime or recreation.</p> - -<p>The San Joaquin valley, in the midst of which this city is situated, -would probably be the best<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_162">{162}</a></span> agricultural land in the State, if the water -could be drained from it; but in its present low and boggy condition, it -is utterly unfit for cultivation. It takes its name from the low-banked -river which meanders through it, and is as level as a garden. No -vegetable production is found upon it, except the tule, a tall, pithy -species of rush or calamus, which bears a more striking resemblance to -the flag than to any thing else of Atlantic growth. This tule, which -grows as thick as it can stand, and from six to eight foot in height, is -an annual plant; and in the fall of the year, if fire be communicated to -it during the night, when there is a light breeze stirring, it burns -with an indescribable splendor. I have said that this aquatic weed is -the only natural product of the valley; this is true, as regards all -that part which is perfectly level, and which presents the appearance of -a vast meadow; but as we approach the Coast Range on the south-west, or -the Sierra Nevadas on the north-east, we come to slightly elevated -knolls, upon which we find clumps of gnarled oaks. These trees all lean -towards the east, as if bowing their heads in adoration, having grown in -this reverential posture while under the influence of the winds from the -west.</p> - -<p>This valley affords another evidence of the unfavorable condition of the -country. It shows conclusively that even the most valuable parts<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_163">{163}</a></span> of the -State are encumbered with insurmountable impediments. The bottom lands, -which are mainly relied upon for agricultural purposes, are too wet to -till, and too low to drain; while the uplands are so dry and sterile -that neither grains, plants nor fruits can be raised upon them. There is -either too much moisture or none at all. It is a land of mountains and -mud-holes. Still, there are some extensive plains and valleys which -might be successfully cultivated, if the seasons were adapted to them; -but the absence of rain during the summer renders them of little or no -value to the farmer. It is very probable, however, that in the progress -of time, as the other members of the confederacy become burdened with -population, the more eligible parts of this State will be settled and, -by means of irrigation, made tolerably productive; but when California -is thus peopled and converted into a place of permanent habitation, it -will be by the force of destiny, rather than by any attractions it can -offer to immigrants. They may make it their home as a dernier resort, -but they will not do it as a matter of choice. So long as there is any -unappropriated territory in other parts of the Union, California will -not be in demand.</p> - -<p>We shall find but few things deserving attention in the city of -Stockton, having already examined its archetypes, San Francisco and -Sacramento. It is due to this place to remark that,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_164">{164}</a></span> notwithstanding all -its Peter Funk and Cheap John establishments, it sustains a better -character than any other city in the State. Though it has its share of -groggeries and gambling-houses, and is, in most respects, fitted out in -true California style, it is not infested with so many drones and -desperadoes as are usually met with in neighboring towns. I am well -acquainted with many of its citizens and know them to be estimable -men—not too lazy to work, nor too sour to laugh at a merry thing.</p> - -<p>Sonora is an inland town, situated in the midst of one of the richest -mineral regions in the southern part of the State. A stage-coach affords -the most convenient and expeditious means of reaching this place, which -lies about fifty miles to the south-east. Starting early in the morning, -we travel as last as a dare-devil driver can make four horses convey -us—frequently meeting and overtaking numerous pack trains, pedestrians -and ox-teams, passing to and fro between the mines and Stockton. A part -of the country over which our road leads us, is a somewhat elevated -plain, which, being entirely destitute of trees and other vegetable -products, presents a most dreary and uninviting prospect. We see nothing -around us but the naked earth. There is no accommodation for either bird -or beast—no resting-place for the one, nor food for the other. The -pack-trains, pedestrians and ox<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_165">{165}</a></span>-teams, constitute the only animal life -in view; and as we see them plodding along over this barren waste, our -memories are refreshed with vivid recollections of those stories, which -we read in former days, of caravans crossing the great desert of Sahara.</p> - -<p>It is a fact worthy of being here recorded, as illustrative of the -success of the miners, that we shall observe a larger number returning -on foot than we find going. I was amused one day, while on my way to the -regions of hidden treasure, when meeting a ragged, hairy, Esau-looking -pedestrian, he hailed me with “Hallo.” “How are you?” answered I. “Which -way?” asked he. “To the mines,” replied I. “Well, my friend,” said he, -“you will excuse me for speaking plainly; this is a free country and I -presume you are at liberty to go to the mines or to the d—l, just as -you please; but, mark my words, if you are going to the mines to dig, -I’ll be d—d if you don’t rue the act.” “May-be not,” remarked I. “Very -well,” he added, “you’ll see. By the time you delve and toil two long -years, under the broiling sun as I have done, and have seen others do, -without making a decent living, you’ll perceive the truth of what I tell -you.”</p> - -<p>Steadily pursuing our course, about twelve o’clock we came to the -Stanislaus River, a small tributary stream of the San Joaquin. Here we -stop to change horses and get dinner, there<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_166">{166}</a></span> being a sort of bastard -hotel near the brink of the river. Numerous Indians, naked and hungry, -could be seen prowling about this place, or seated in squads, partaking -of a mess of worms, young wasps, grasshoppers, or any other similar -dainty to which their good stars may lead them. It was a long time -before the savage creatures would tolerate the presence of the white man -amongst them; but they have been so repeatedly routed in battle, that -they have now given up open hostility and are comparatively peaceable; -still they secretly cherish the most implacable enmity to our race, and -improve every opportunity to dispatch us when they can do so without -being detected. They gain nothing, however, by these covert misdeeds; -for our people, understanding their insidious conduct, retaliate by -deliberately shooting them down whenever they come in their way. What -the white man’s life is valued at by the Indian, is probably not known; -but the white man hurls the Indian into eternity with as much -nonchalance as though he were a squirrel.</p> - -<p>Having appeased our appetites and secured the services of a fresh team, -we cross the river and resume our journey. As we advance towards the -place of our destination, the face of the country changes, from level -plains to rugged slopes and woodlands. In the forenoon our road, though -disagreeably dusty, was both smooth and straight,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_167">{167}</a></span> but now it winds over -rocky glades, hills and gullies; and as the wheels of our vehicle mount -and descend the rough impediments, we are jarred and shaken without -mercy. Approaching still nearer the end of our journey, we have to -contend with a more difficult and uneven surface; but being in charge of -a very skillful driver, we are drawn safely over every rock and crag.</p> - -<p>Arriving in Sonora between sundown and dark, we repair to a public -house, and bespeak supper and lodgings for the night. The best hotel in -the place is a one-story structure, built of unhewn saplings, covered -with canvas and floored with dirt. It consists of one undivided room, in -which the tables, berths and benches are all arranged. Here we sleep, -eat and drink. Four or five tiers of berths or bunks, one directly above -another, are built against the walls of the cabin, by means of upright -posts and cross-pieces, fastened with thongs of raw-hide. The bedding is -composed of a small straw mattress about two feet wide, an uncased -pillow stuffed with the same material, and a single blanket. When we -creep into one of these nests, it is optional with us whether we unboot -or uncoat ourselves; but it would be looked upon as an act of -ill-breeding, even in California, to go to bed with one’s hat on. Having -once resigned ourselves into the arms of Morpheus, we are not likely to -be disturbed by the drunken yells and vocifera<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_168">{168}</a></span>tions of night-brawlers, -now that we have become accustomed to such things. The noisy curses of -the rabble will have no more effect upon us than the roaring water-fall -or the mill-wheel has upon the miller. Night glides away, morning dawns, -and we rise from our bunks to battle with another day. On the outside of -the tavern, whither we betake ourselves to wash, are a tub of water, a -basin and a towel, for all the guests; but as only one person can -perform his ablutions at a time, it will be necessary for us to form -ourselves in a line, and take our turn—the first comers being entitled -to the front places. We are now ready to replenish the inner man. The -bar is convenient for those who wish to imbibe. Breakfast is announced. -We seat ourselves at the table. Before us is a reasonable quantity of -beans, pork and flapjacks, served up in tin plates. Pea tea, which the -landlord calls coffee with a bold emphasis, is handed to us, and we help -ourselves to such other things as may be within reach.</p> - -<p>No matter what kinds or qualities of viands are set before us, so that -there be sufficient, for our stomachs have become so well tempered by -this time that we feast upon them with as much gusto as if we were -dining in a French restaurant. Neither spices, sauces nor seasonings are -necessary to accommodate them to the palate. Our appetites need no -nursing. Honest hunger<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_169">{169}</a></span> disdains such dyspeptic accompaniments as the -contents of cruets and casters. The richest condiments are the poorest -provisions.</p> - -<p>Our fast is broken—we are satisfied. The proprietor of the hotel, with -his two male assistants, begins to clear off the table. Women have no -hand in these domestic affairs. There is not a female about the -establishment. All the guests, owners and employees are men. The dishes -are washed, the blankets straightened in the berths; and while the cook -is preparing dinner, some of the tavern-loungers seat themselves around -the table, to take a friendly game of euchre, whist, seven-up, -laugh-and-lay-down, old-maid, commerce or matrimony, while others -saunter off to the gambling houses, of which there are about half a -dozen in the place, to play at roulette, monte, faro, poker, twenty-one, -all-fours or lansquenet. Such is hotel life in California, especially in -the country towns and throughout the mining region.</p> - -<p>Frequently several of the guests are fuddled, and as there are no -partitions or apartments in the building, by which one person or set of -persons may be separated from another, they are a most prolific source -of annoyance to their sober neighbors. I recollect one occasion -particularly, when, fatigued by a long day’s journey, I stopped at one -of these mountain taverns in the hope of enjoying a comfortable night’s -rest. Soon after<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_170">{170}</a></span> eating my supper, which consisted of the standard -dish, pork and beans, I crept into one of the farthest bunks, annoyed by -the blackguardism and segar fumes of a group of drunken card-players, -who occupied a table near the centre of the room. These swaggering -inebriates, noisy as they were, did not prevent me from sleeping, as I -had become habituated to witnessing such nocturnal carousals; but -towards midnight, in came a wild, blustering lunatic, who had lost his -reason about a week before, yelling and screaming as if a legion of -fiends were after him. He was bare-footed, bare-headed and bare-legged, -having no clothing upon his person, except a shirt; and I understood -afterwards that he had been roaming about the place four or five days -and nights in this condition. Making some inquiry concerning his -history, I learned that he was a lawyer by profession, that he had -formerly figured as an able and influential member of the Maine -Legislature, and that, becoming embarrassed in his financial affairs, he -left his family and emigrated hither in the hope of retrieving his -fortune. Shortly after his arrival, not finding employment for his -talent as a counselor, he determined to seek the favor of the mines; but -his efforts in that quarter proved unavailing. For nearly a year he had -toiled vigorously and incessantly, but to no purpose. He could not -discover the hidden treasure which he sought.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_171">{171}</a></span> Disappointed and -chagrined at the result, he resigned himself to the bottle. The -remembrance of his dependent and far distant family, coupled with the -mischievous influence of ardent spirits, increased and sharpened his -mental suffering; his mind began to vacillate—his reason lost its -equilibrium, and we now find him a raving maniac. More than half naked, -friendless and forlorn, he wanders about the streets and through the -woods, day and night—a poor, miserable, crazy vagabond. Why, it may be -asked, was there not some public provision made for the removal and -security of this pitiable nuisance? Simply because it was in California. -Here, where there is nothing as it should be, this unhappy man was -allowed to run at large. No one cared for him. He was supposed to be -harmless, and was, therefore, permitted to live. If he had inflicted any -bodily injury upon any one, he would probably have been shot or stabbed, -and that would have been the end of the drama. Cases of this or a -similar character are to be met with almost every day. I only mention -this as a single instance.</p> - -<p>To give a faint idea of the precocity and waywardness of youth in this -country, I will relate a bloody incident which occurred at another -hotel, where I had put up for a night’s lodging. In this case the -landlord, a short, lean Massachusetts Yankee, was married and had his -fam<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_172">{172}</a></span>ily with him. His eldest son, Ned, had not seen his ninth year. -Nevertheless, this boy had learned to gamble. Whether his father or -mother had instructed him in the art, or whether he had been tutored by -the blacklegs frequenting the hotel, I am unable to say; but it was very -evident that his parents cared very little about the matter, for they -permitted him to play cards in their own house, and seemed to pride -themselves upon his proficiency. Indeed, he was so dexterous in his -manner of shuffling and dealing, and so quick to perceive the course and -probable result of the game, that he was known throughout the -neighborhood as the gambling prodigy. It may be questioned whether Hoyle -himself was so conversant with diamonds, hearts, clubs and spades at so -early an age.</p> - -<p>Supper was now over, and the tables were surrounded with players. Little -Ned had his place amongst them. I watched him more than an hour. He -handled the cards with so much grace, skill and agility, and seemed to -be so perfectly familiar with every branch of the game, that I could not -withhold my admiration. As the night advanced, the parties became -involved in a quarrel. Some one accused Ned of unfairness in changing -the position of certain cards. Violent oaths and maledictions followed -this accusation. Inflamed with anger, and assuming a menacing attitude, -Ned denounced his accuser (a full grown<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_173">{173}</a></span> man, three times as large and -four times as old as himself,) as “a pusillanimous liar and scoundrel,” -and added, “G-d d—n you, I’ll shoot you!” By this time the excitement -had reached a high pitch. Things began to wear an alarming aspect. -Several persons took sides in the matter, some for Ned and some against -him. A general row seemed to be inevitable. Ned had the largest number -of friends; but his enemies were clamorous and obstinate in their -assertions that he had departed from the rules of the game, and declared -in positive terms that he was a disciplined cheat.</p> - -<p>Finally, however, Ned’s friends took upon themselves all the -responsibility of his behaviour, and the war of loud invectives and -imprecations was now waged more by the adherents of the original -disputants than by those disputants themselves. The bandying of gross -epithets attracted the attention of a large crowd. Serious consequences -were apprehended. The occasion was pregnant with mischief. One of the -desperadoes jerked a bowie-knife from his pocket, and was about to -plunge it into the body of his antagonist, when another drew a revolver -and shot him. A few struggles—a few groans, and the fallen man had -ceased to live. But the injury was not confined to him alone. As the -ball passed through the breast of the man at whom it was aimed, it -lodged in the shoulder of an in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_174">{174}</a></span>nocent spectator, inflicting a severe -but not mortal wound. And now was enacted one of those awful scenes of -retribution for which California is so notorious. The man who had just -committed the homicide was seized by the mob, and, amid loud cries of -“hang him! hang him!” led out to a tree and there summarily executed -according to the prompt sentence of the excited multitude. It was a -season of dreadful uproar and commotion. The man who was shot had not -been dead half an hour before his murderer was suspended by the neck -between heaven and earth. Thus we have seen the blood of two men shed in -the quarrel of a stripling, who had not attained half the age of -manhood, but who already was a reckless and abandoned little gambler. If -we deemed it necessary, we might cite other instances of a similar -character. Suffice it to say that this boy, Ned, may be taken as a fair -sample of the rising generation in California. Of course, they are not -all exactly like him, any more than two persons are exactly alike any -where else; but the same unlimited freedom is extended to them all: they -are allowed to do just as they please. What else can be expected? Is it -to be supposed that parents who put no restraint upon themselves will -govern their children with propriety? If the father is an habitual -gambler, drunkard and desperado, will not the son be so too?<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_175">{175}</a></span></p> - -<p>The truth is, there is no attention paid to the moral, mental or -physical discipline of youth in this country. They are left to their own -will and inclination, to grow up, like the plants and weeds in a -neglected garden, without culture or training. Surrounded as they are -with so many examples of depravity, what sort of men and women are they -likely to he? It is probable that the world has never reared such a -horde of accomplished scamps and vagabonds, male and female, as will -soon emerge from the adolescent population of the Eureka State. The -signs of the times warrant this conclusion. How can it be otherwise when -they are familiar with every vice, and strangers to every virtue? It -matters not how strict or careful the parents themselves may be, it is -impossible for them to shield their children from the baneful influences -of the neighborhood; and a man might as well think of raising a healthy -and stalwart family in the midst of a malarious swamp, as to think of -rearing decent sons and daughters in California. The boys persuade -themselves that they are men before they are half matured; and their -superiors are either too little concerned about it, or too deeply -engrossed in business to teach them better. As a consequence of this -precocious manliness, they give themselves up to all the pernicious -habits and indulgences of older reprobates.</p> - -<p>A few words now in regard to this town of So<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_176">{176}</a></span>nora. It is built upon the -slope of a long hill, and contains about four thousand inhabitants. Only -one street traverses it. Unlike most other towns, its length is very -much disproportioned to its breadth. As well as I remember, it is -something over a mile long, and only about one hundred yards wide; so -that the single street which passes through it affords an ample avenue -for the intercourse and business operations of the people. The houses, -or, more properly speaking, the shanties, are built close together, and -open on the street, in city style. Indeed, it is here called a city, and -is governed by a mayor and common council. In fact, every collection of -houses in this country, every hamlet, every village, every town, is -called a city. No matter if there be only half a dozen houses in a -place, it is termed a city, always taking the name of the locality upon -which it is built, as Collusi city, Stanislaus city, Marin city. I have -visited two or three of these California “cities” that contained but a -couple of frail tenements each, and four or five old bachelor -inhabitants.</p> - -<p>Before it was ascertained which were the natural or most suitable and -convenient parts of the State for city sites and trading posts, there -was a wonderful deal of finesse practiced by a set of land-speculators. -Scattering themselves over the country, they laid claim to certain -eligible plats, which, according to their stories, Nature had<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_177">{177}</a></span> formed -expressly for capitals and queen cities. Large maps, margined with -laudatory remarks, setting forth the peerless advantages of this place -and that, were committed to oily-tongued agents for general circulation. -The people were informed that such a place was destined to become a -metropolis, that all the surrounding mountains, hills, valleys and -plains were bound to become tributary to it, that the great system and -machinery of the world could not move on harmoniously without it, and -that those who secured the first choice of lots would at once be in -possession of a lordly fortune. This, as a matter of course, was all -sheer humbug; nevertheless, in California, where humbug mingles with -every transaction of life, and where people are ever ready to lay hold -of any scheme that promises money, it had the desired effect.</p> - -<p>Many persons had confidence in these projects, and made investments in -them. Besides several individual cases of which I might speak, I am -acquainted with a company of men who laid out more than one hundred and -fifty thousand dollars in this questionable species of property;—to-day -their investment is not worth two cents on the dollar. It was perfectly -amusing sometimes to witness the working of these bastard enterprises. -The authors and agents of the plan, having their topographic charts and -every thing in readiness, would bustle about among the peo<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_178">{178}</a></span>ple, pointing -out and explaining the favorable and commanding situation of the place, -assuring them that the attention of the whole country was now directed -to it, and giving the most exasperated accounts of the demand for lots. -In this way they would soon get up a great excitement, (it requires but -a small matter to excite the people in California.) In a few instances, -as many as seventy or eighty persons have been known to purchase -interests in one of these bubble cities, and, laying aside all other -business, flock to it without delay. Three weeks afterwards, there would -probably be only one or two men on the ground, and no marks or vestiges -of a city, except, perhaps, a few deserted cloth tents. It must be -admitted that the projectors of these ephemeral cities made money at the -expense of their victims.</p> - -<p>The Americans were the principal operators in these speculative -movements; but I know several Germans, who, though proverbially cautious -in the matter of dollars and cents, were likewise drawn into them. In -one particular case, two worthy representatives of the <i>Faderland</i> -bought four lots, each forty-five by one hundred and thirty-seven feet, -for thirteen thousand dollars, which they afterwards offered to me at -ninety-five per cent. discount! I would not have taken the whole or any -part of the plot at the rate of six dollars an acre.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_179">{179}</a></span></p> - -<p>I have alluded, parenthetically, to the excitability of the -Californians. This is a remarkable trait in their character. The least -thing of unusual occurrence fires their fancy and sets them in motion. -If a terrier catches a rat, or if a big turnip is brought to market, the -people cluster together and scramble for a sight with as much eagerness -and impetuosity as a party of children would scramble after a handful of -sweetmeats. If, in these hasty gatherings, one man happens to tread on -the toes of another, it only requires one minute for the injured party -to shoot the offender, two minutes for some body else to stab the -shooter, and three minutes for the whole crowd to hang the stabber.</p> - -<p>While in and about Sonora, we may have an opportunity of inspecting all -the various systems of mining that are carried on in California. The -whole earth, for some distance around, is literally turned upside down, -or inside out. On the left, they are using the common single-hand -rocker; on the right, sluicing; and in another place, sinking deep -shafts. We shall here find a great many Mexican miners, who make deep -pits and excavations in the hills, and who are generally very successful -in their operations. These delving countrymen of Santa Anna seem to have -a peculiar tact for discovering the veins of gold. But they do not -confine themselves much to surface diggings. They have a greater<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_180">{180}</a></span> -propensity for holes. Sometimes they will go forty or fifty feet into -the earth without finding an atom of the precious metal; but it is very -seldom that they mistake their ground; they keep going, either in a -perpendicular, horizontal or meandering direction, until they strike the -ore. Except in working quartz veins, machinery has been but little -employed, as yet, in developing the mineral resources of the State; but -I am inclined to the opinion that it might be advantageously applied in -gathering the gold in whatever form it may exist.</p> - -<p>A part of the preceding chapter was devoted to observations upon the -habits of life and personal appearance of the miner; but I neglected to -mention his peculiar characteristic or appendage: this is the long hair -upon his head and face. He neither shaves nor shears; he has no use for -either razors or scissors. The tonsorial art is, in his estimation, a -most reprehensible and unmanly innovation. Looking upon it as one of the -fashionable foibles of society, he disavows all connection with it. He -believes that Nature is not apt to make mistakes, that all things were -created about right, that hair was placed upon man’s head and face to -harmonize with the other organs of his body, that it has its distinct -and peculiar offices to perform, and that if it is cut, the whole animal -economy will be more or less enervated. Such is something of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_181">{181}</a></span> the faith -of the miner upon this interesting subject, which has of late been such -a theme of discussion among the mustachioed and non-mustachioed world.</p> - -<p>I confess myself, in fact, a convert to his notions. To say that the -whiskers or the hair should never be trimmed, would be as much as to say -that the finger-nails should never be pared; while to say that the beard -or the hair should be cut close to the skin, would be the same as saying -that the finger-nails should be pulled out by the roots. If we shave the -chin and the cheeks, why not the head, the hands and the arms? How comes -it that hair is less tolerable on the side of the face than on the back -of the hand? The Chinaman shaves his head all over, except a small spot -on the crown, about twice the size of a dollar, and we laugh at him for -doing so; but may it not be questioned which is the greater object of -derision, a bald head or a beardless face? We are also in the habit of -ridiculing young ladies because they lace or compress their waists, but -would it not be equally becoming in them to sneer at us for disfiguring -our faces? What would we think of the belles, if they were to get in the -habit of wearing false whiskers? Would we not characterize the -introduction of such a fashion as a silly and whimsical innovation? But -is it any more ridiculous or censurable in a woman to make<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_182">{182}</a></span> her face -masculine, than it is in a man to make his feminine?</p> - -<p>That the beard is a protection against sore throats, coughs, colds, -asthma, and other ailments, every California miner will be willing to -testify. It is said that the English colliers, who have long suffered -from hemorrhage of the lungs, have evaded the disease altogether by -discontinuing the use of the razor. Yet the newspapers inform us that -the clerks in the Bank of England are not allowed to wear mustachios, -under penalty of dismission.</p> - -<p>As I have heretofore remarked, mining in California is one of the most -precarious of all occupations. Yet it is the country’s only source of -wealth, and if the laborer fails in it, he cannot betake himself to -other pursuits. If he cannot make money by digging, shoveling and -rocking, he cannot make it at all. Now and then, it is true, the miner -meets with unanticipated good luck; but when such a thing occurs it is -blazoned from Dan to Beersheba, whereas no mention is ever made of the -thousands of unfortunate, poverty-stricken dupes, who, though equally -industrious and deserving, scarcely defray their expenses.</p> - -<p>I may refer to the case of an old man, who, for some time, was engaged -in mining operations at this place, and with whom I became acquainted -soon after my arrival here. Sixty years had left their traces upon his -face, and his<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_183">{183}</a></span> snowy beard and silver locks increased his venerable air. -For a man of his age, he was remarkably vigorous; and as he was somewhat -above the usual height, and well proportioned, with a kind heart that -beamed through his intelligent features, he must have been, in his -younger days, a noble specimen of a man. Even at the time of which we -speak, he was a fine looking man, old in years but young in spirit, -whole-souled, free from every species of hypocrisy, plain-spoken, full -of courage and resolution, yet sincere and guileless as a child. Though -I never saw him have on a clean shirt, though his whole garb was -besmeared with mud and soiled with perspiration; though his hoary locks -hung about his breast and shoulders in unrestrained length and unlimited -profusion; and though he was nothing now but a poor, penniless old -miner—yet, convinced that he had those excellent qualities within, -which constitute the great and good man, I should have felt proud to -call him father.</p> - -<p>We will let this venerable sexagenarian tell his own story. I indite his -own words, as nearly as I recollect them. Said he, during conversation -one evening, after we had both quit work, “Some men would esteem -themselves wealthy, if they were worth as much money as I was deprived -of by bad legislation in Congress, a while previous to my departure for -this country. Soon<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_184">{184}</a></span> after the enactment of the tariff law of 1842, one -of my neighbors and myself invested eighty thousand dollars in the -manufacture of iron, in the State of Pennsylvania. Our business -succeeded beyond our expectations; and in order to supply the increasing -demands for our products, we found it necessary to employ additional -force and capital, build new forges, and otherwise enlarge the sphere of -our operations. Every examination of our affairs developed new evidences -of prosperity, and our hearts glowed with gratitude to those sterling -patriots and sagacious statesmen, Clay, Webster and others, through -whose eloquent influence we were then harvesting the fruits of a -protective tariff. But this thriving state of things was not of long -continuance. In 1846 the tariff act of ’42 was repealed; and that repeal -was the death-blow to our manufacturing interests. The duty on iron was -reduced so low that it was impossible for us to compete with the -importations from Europe. We became embarrassed, made an assignment, and -finally, by sacrificing every thing we had in the shape of property, -extricated ourselves from all liabilities. After this stroke of -misfortune, having a wife and three daughters, who were partly dependent -upon me for support, I concluded to come to California, believing, from -the flattering accounts which I had seen published, that money was more -easily accumulated here than in<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_185">{185}</a></span> the Atlantic States. It is now almost -two years since I arrived in San Francisco. Going to the northern mines -first, I worked there something over twelve months; but finding it a -difficult matter to pay expenses, I came south, and settled at this -place. I fear I have not bettered my condition. During the last seven or -eight months I have labored faithfully upon this bar, but have not been -in possession of as much as twenty-five dollars clear money at any one -time. I confess I am utterly disappointed in California. It has been -grossly, shamefully misrepresented. I have tried it to my satisfaction. -Now I would be glad to return to my home in Pennsylvania, but I have no -means to convey me. And there is my poor family, my beloved wife and -daughters—what will become of them? May heaven provide for them, for I -am unable.”</p> - -<p>As the good old man uttered these last words, the tears trickled down -his cheeks, and he could say no more. Had it not been that I disdained -to moisten California soil with such precious drops, I believe my eyes -would have rained too; for the clouds began to gather about them, and I -had to use no little precaution to keep them dry. It was certainly no -sign of a white-livered man, to shed tears in a case of this kind; on -the contrary, it was, at least in my opinion, a mark of goodness; and my -estimation of the old gentleman was heightened, on account of the -tender<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_186">{186}</a></span> regard he manifested towards his family. He had lately received -a most soothing and affectionate letter from one of his daughters, -urging him by all means to return home on the first opportunity, and -promising to exert herself to the utmost to make him happy. Handing the -letter to me, he remarked that I might read it if I felt so disposed. A -peculiar thrill electrified my whole system as I laid hold of the -delicately penned missive. I was but little acquainted with that kind of -literature, yet there was a charm about it, and I devoured its contents -with avidity. It was a rare souvenir—beautifully written, well worded, -and faultless in orthography.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_187">{187}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">VOYAGE TO CALIFORNIA VIA CAPE HORN.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Among</span> our readers there may be some who are contemplating a trip to -California, and may be hesitating between the two routes commonly -traveled. For their sakes, I have violated the chronological order of my -adventures, that I might introduce a description of the outward and -return trip, in immediate juxtaposition for the greater convenience of -comparison.</p> - -<p>From the pier of Wall street, New York, on Friday, January 31st, seven -passengers, myself amongst the number, embarked for San Francisco, on -board the clipper ship Stag-Hound, under command of Capt. Josiah -Richardson. The wind blowing from the north-east afforded us a favorable -opportunity for standing out from land; of this, however, we did not -avail ourselves until about 4 o’clock in the afternoon; for, although -our vessel was towed out early in the morning, and every thing seemed to -be in readiness for our final departure, yet, through some unavoidably -delay, we were obliged to cast anchor off Staten Island, where it became -necessary for us to remain until the time above<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_188">{188}</a></span> mentioned. We then -weighed anchor, set sail, and in a few minutes our noble ship was -gliding over the blue waves with swan-like grace.</p> - -<p>It was truly a magnificent sight, as we headed off so smoothly and so -majestically from the shore, and made our way out farther and farther -upon the dark blue deep; we spent the greater part of the evening -promenading the quarter-deck, and admiring the enchanting scene. But our -reverie and conversation were not altogether undisturbed by melancholy -thought. We had just started upon a long, uncertain and monotonous -voyage. Old associations had been broken up. We had bid adieu to our -native homes, our nearest relations and dearest friends, probably for -three or four years—possibly for ever. All before us then was an -unknown world—an untrodden path, and phantom-faces of doubt and fear -would loom up from the obscurity of the future.</p> - -<p>The next morning I began to feel symptoms of that most intolerable of -all sensations, seasickness. Of this malady I had some little experience -once before, while on my way from Philadelphia to New York via Cape May; -but I never entertained the least idea that it was half so depressing as -I now found it. For three weeks and more I could scarcely eat a -mouthful. It really seemed to me at times that eating was the most -abominable occupation men could en<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_189">{189}</a></span>gage in; and when I looked upon -dishes of which I had often freely partaken before coming on board the -vessel, I either found it difficult to reconcile myself to the opinion -that I was not dreaming, or came well nigh detesting myself for having -ever been addicted to so gross a habit.</p> - -<p>The monotony of our daily life was without variety for the next four or -five days. The wind had been somewhat favorable, and we were making good -progress until the evening of the fifth day, when suddenly the wind -changed and we shortly after found ourselves in the midst of as nice a -hurricane as ever sunk a ship or leveled a forest. The wind howled and -shrieked in such a manner that I could compare it with nothing earthly; -the sea, too, had assumed, by this time, a most formidable appearance; -the rain was falling in perfect torrents—the lightning flashed -incessantly, and such deafening thunder-peals mortal man never heard -before. It appeared as if the elements, for the last five days or so, -had been nursing their wrath for this particular occasion, and were -determined that we, poor devils of passengers, should be made thoroughly -acquainted with the comforts of a crowded ship in a tornado at sea.</p> - -<p>The poor affrighted passengers (myself among the rest) despaired of the -ship long before the severest part of the tempest was felt, and prayers<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_190">{190}</a></span> -and promises were offered up without stint for our salvation, by many -that never prayed before and I suppose have never done so since. When -morning dawned it seemed as if the fury of the storm increased—sea and -sky were apparently as one; every thing, and every body appeared -helpless, hopeless, panic-stricken. Most of our canvas had been taken in -or closely furled, yet the ship dashed along with the speed of a -race-horse. Things that were not well secured rolled about in the -greatest disorder and confusion. The heavy seas which she had already -shipped, and the still heavier ones she was then shipping, increased, if -possible, the consternation inspired by the awful scene. In fact, things -began to wear such a threatening aspect, that a speedy change of some -sort was looked forward to with the greatest anxiety, not only by the -passengers, but by the captain and crew, when, to complete our terrors, -topgallant-masts, royals, and main-top-mast, with their appendages, came -down with a crash that was heard above the howling of the storm. By this -time the day had been spent, and night considerably advanced,—with fear -and trembling we retired to our state-rooms, doubting whether we should -ever be permitted to see the light of another day. For myself, I suppose -I was quite as indifferent about the matter as any one else; for, when a -person gets to be as much under the influence of nausea as I was at<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_191">{191}</a></span> the -time, any change is desirable, even though it carry him to the bottom of -the deep. The night passed, and we found that the storm was beginning to -abate, so that, in about forty-eight hours thereafter, its violence had -entirely ceased, and fine weather attended us across the equator.</p> - -<p>The loss of our masts, in this severe gale, at once threw a damper on -our high hopes of a quick passage; but, fortunately for us, we had extra -masts on board; and, through the indefatigable exertions and -perseverance of our vigilant captain, we succeeded in getting all the -wreck cleared away and jury-masts rigged. The shattered timbers and torn -sails opened an unusually large field of labor for our carpenter and -sail-maker. We kept on our course, which had been very nearly south-east -ever since we started, until we passed the Cape Verde Islands, about -four degrees to the west, when we steered due south, and crossed the -equator between twenty-nine and thirty degrees west longitude.</p> - -<p>The next interesting event that happened to us occurred off the coast of -Brazil, in latitude 22° 25´—longitude 38° 29´, Sunday, March 2d. It was -about six o’clock in the morning, and I had just left my state-room and -gone on deck to take a bath, when a sailor by my side, pointing over the -starboard bow, cried out, “Boat ahoy! boat ahoy! with men in it.” In an -instant, as if by electricity, the news was conveyed to every ear<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_192">{192}</a></span> on -board, and, at the same time, the starboard rail was lined fore and aft -with anxious sailors and half-dressed passengers. As we drew near them, -(they had been rowing towards us all the while as hard as they could -pull,) they commenced waving their hands and handkerchiefs, beckoning to -us and calling out in an unintelligible language, as if imploring us to -receive them on board. At the time, the sea was running moderately high, -and we were gliding along at the rate of five or six knots per hour, so -that in a few minutes we had them directly astern of us; but we were not -so destitute of humanity as to pass them by and leave them to certain -death. Our sympathies were quickly and enthusiastically aroused in their -behalf, and as soon as our captain could get his ship under proper -command, he hove her to and waited for them to row along side. Pretty -soon they came close under the lee of our vessel, and their -weather-beaten features and nautical garb at once gave evidence that -they were not unacquainted with the life of sea-faring men.</p> - -<p>A rope was thrown to them and they were all able to pull themselves on -board by it, except one, whom we afterwards ascertained to be their -captain,—he, poor fellow, was so much exhausted that he could not help -himself, and we were obliged to hoist him in. Their story was the next -thing to be learned; for, as yet, not a word<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_193">{193}</a></span> they said had been -understood. This difficulty was removed, however, as soon as we got our -men collected; for, among our polyglot assemblage of men, representing -nearly forty different nations, we quickly found an interpreter in the -person of an old Swede, whose translation of their story was, in -substance, as follows:—They were Swedes and belonged to the Russian -brig Sylphide, which had been to Rio and taken in a cargo of eighteen -hundred and twenty-five bags of coffee, with which they had set sail for -Helsingfors, Finland,—when five days out from Rio, a severe storm, or -rather squall, came upon them, and so completely and suddenly wrecked -their vessel, that they had barely time to escape in one of the little -boats with their lives—not even having an opportunity to procure so -much as a bottle of water or a mouthful of food. So precipitate and -unexpected was the calamity which thus overtook them, that they had to -quit their brig without any preparation whatever, and abandon their -carpenter, who happened to be in his berth sick at the time, to a watery -grave.</p> - -<p>They had been out three days and nights in this condition, with nothing -to eat or drink, save the legs of their captain’s boots, which they said -they had been chewing to sustain life. Exposed as they were to the -burning rays of a tropical sun, without any thing to eat or drink, it is -not<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_194">{194}</a></span> reasonable to suppose that they would have lived more than three -days longer at farthest, if we had not picked them up, or if they had -not been otherwise providentially relieved. We received the captain in -our own cabin, and at our own table, and entertained him as hospitably -and agreeably in every way as it was possible for us to do. His men went -before the mast, and proved a very acceptable addition to our crew, -especially in doubling Cape Horn, for they could endure the cold much -better than our own seamen. That day, in commendation of the act we had -performed in the morning, our captain,—who, by the by, was a very -exemplary and devout scion of an orthodox Yankee house,—read, during -divine service, the parable of the Good Samaritan.</p> - -<p>About three o’clock in the afternoon of the same day, a little -circumstance came under my observation, which, though it may seem quite -a trivial affair in the eyes of many, may nevertheless serve to -illustrate in some degree the barbarity of man and his utter -indifference in regard to the lives of inferior animals. The subject of -the incident was a small land bird, very much resembling our hedge -sparrow, which was discovered resting upon one of the larboard main -braces. A gust or blast of wind had probably driven it out to sea, and -it could not find its way back to the shore. It was so weak that<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_195">{195}</a></span> it -could scarcely fly, and looked as if it was almost dead. On seeing it, I -ran below and got a few crumbs of bread and strewed them along over the -life-boat nearest to it. But just at that moment, the Swedish captain, -who had now begun to resuscitate, came up on deck; and spying the -distressed little wanderer, he walked up as boldly and deliberately to -the rope upon which it was sitting, as if it had been some noxious -intruder, and shook it violently. Thus frightened, the bird flew off -some distance from the ship, but soon returned and alighted in the very -same place; again the captain shook the rope as he had done at first, -and again the bird did just as it had done before. This same thing was -repeated for the third time, when the wearied little creature, -apparently disgusted with the brutality of the man, who but a few hours -before was himself in a forlorn and helpless condition, dropped down -upon the water, and was seen no more.</p> - -<p>Keeping along down the South American coast, we passed between Patagonia -and the Falkland Islands; and on the morning of the 21st of March were -within twenty miles of Staten Land. This was the first land we had seen -since leaving home, and we feasted our eyes upon it, until our ship bore -us so far distant that it had dwindled down to a mere speck. When we -were near enough to Staten Land, I could see<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_196">{196}</a></span> with the aid of the -captain’s spy-glass nothing but rugged and sterile mountains, the -highest peaks of which were covered with snow, and presented quite a -picturesque appearance. No vegetation nor living thing of any kind could -be discerned. But a young Bostonian, whom we afterwards saw in -Valparaiso, told us he passed so near the shore of some of the land -lying at the southern extremity of Patagonia, that he could see the -natives, who, he said, were a gigantic people, about eight feet high! He -also said they ran along on the shore abreast of his vessel, whooping -and yelling at him like a set of ferocious savages. On Sunday following -we saw Cape Horn, the most notorious of all places upon the high seas -for rough weather and contrary winds.</p> - -<p>Up to this time we had been congratulating ourselves upon the auspicious -season in which we had happened to reach the Cape, and upon the quick -run we were going to make around it. Delightful weather and favorable -winds had cheered us since leaving the latitude of the La Plata river, -and we were in high hopes that we had just hit upon the right time to -sail safely round the dangerous Cape in one or two days, instead of -being kept there six or eight weeks, as is sometimes the case. But we -were doomed to sad disappointment. Towards night that terror of all -navigators, a downright Cape Horn<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_197">{197}</a></span> tempest, assailed us, and for seven -successive days and nights kept us almost completely submerged. During -the whole of this time, the wind, which was so intolerably cold and -piercing that it seemed to be charged with isicles, blew right in our -teeth, and brought hail, sleet, rain or snow with it every hour. Owing -to this hard and continued blowing of the wind, the size and power of -the waves became perfectly appalling; indeed they ran so heavy and so -high that each one looked like a little ocean of itself, and frequently -they would strike the ship with such tremendous force that she quivered -and groaned as if she were going to pieces; in fact, I often expected to -see her shivered into fragments, and could hardly believe otherwise than -that we were all destined to become food for the fierce monsters of the -deep. We succeeded, however, in getting fairly around the Cape, much to -the gratification of all, and especially to the relief of our worn-out -seamen, who had been up working with all their might, day and night, for -a whole week.</p> - -<p>While in the neighborhood of the Cape, we saw great numbers of the -albatross, gull, petrel, and other birds; by means of a fish-hook tied -to the end of a long line, and baited with a piece of fat bacon, which -we let out some eight or ten rods from the stern of the vessel, we -caught several of a species which the sailors called the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_198">{198}</a></span> Cape Hen. On -measuring one of them from the tip of its right wing to the tip of its -left, I found it to be seven feet across. The albatross is about twice -as large as the Cape Hen. Here, too, while in this latitude, we had our -fairest views of the great Southern Cross and the Magellan Clouds, -constellations of as much notoriety in the southern hemisphere, as the -Pleiades and Belt of Orion are in the northern.</p> - -<p>It seems that the Atlantic and Pacific oceans are ever at war with each -other off Cape Horn, where their waters are continually coming into mad -collision, as if no friendship existed between them. But we will now bid -adieu to this aquatic battle field, this bleak, dreary region of storms -and hurricanes, and look forward to a more congenial clime.</p> - -<p>Finding our water was now beginning to give out, and that we should have -to procure a fresh supply before we could reach San Francisco, we bent -our course towards Valparaiso, upon the coast of Chili, south of the -city and harbor to which we were then bound; and as we passed along up -the shore, we had a most magnificent view, not only of its own long -range of barren hills, but also of the lofty and towering heights of the -Andes at the distance of one hundred and forty-five miles in the -interior. To add to the grandeur of this spectacle on land, another now -presented itself on the ocean around us, in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_199">{199}</a></span> form of great -whales—the first we had seen. We saw many of these huge creatures that -day and the next; one of them came within two or three rods of the stern -of the ship, and spouted the water with a noise something like that of a -high pressure Mississippi steamboat.</p> - -<p>We had scarcely dropped our anchor in the harbor of Valparaiso before we -were surrounded with little boats filled with natives and foreigners, -who had come out, as they said, to talk with us and to see our ship. -From these men we learned that four days previously a severe earthquake -had been felt, and that all the houses in the city had been more or less -injured—a part of the city completely destroyed, and some few persons -killed. It was also reported by some of them, that it had laid a great -portion of Santiago, the capital, in ruins; but, as yet, no definite -news had been received from any of the inland cities or towns; and it -was not positively ascertained what amount of damage had been sustained -in any place, save only here. Late that evening, about half an hour -before sundown, we passengers made our entrance into the city; but it -was then too late in the day to see or learn any thing of interest, so -we returned directly to our own quarters aboard the ship, and waited in -suspense for the coming morn.</p> - -<p>Immediately after an early breakfast, Wednesday morning, we put off in a -small boat for the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_200">{200}</a></span> shore, and were not a little surprised on arriving -there to find every thing so new and so different from what we had -supposed. Crowds of the natives, dressed in their peculiar costume, were -collected upon the wharves, and were making a great hubbub with their -clamorous tongues and noisy actions. They appeared to be an inoffensive, -simple-hearted sort of people; but they were inexcusably ignorant, and -abominably filthy.</p> - -<p>Scarcely had we been in the city half an hour that morning, when I -stepped into a barbershop to have the superfluous hair removed from my -head and face. While in the very act of shaving me, the barber very -suddenly sprang aghast from me towards the door; and the first thing I -knew, the whole earth, houses and every thing around me, were quivering -in the most terrific manner; but, fortunately for the timid, helpless -creatures, the vacillation continued but a few seconds, and no very -serious consequences resulted from it. Just at the moment the rumbling -and quaking commenced, I could not for my life think what it was; but -the barber seemed to understand it immediately, for he had been the -unwilling spectator of a much more destructive earthquake only five days -before; and consequently, he knew well enough what the matter was. On -retiring from the shop, just as I entered the street, a similar shock -was ex<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_201">{201}</a></span>perienced, and instantaneously the whole population rushed -headlong out of their houses into the thoroughfares, apparently in the -greatest distress, and frightened half out of their wits. I observed -several of the women particularly, who, upon running into the streets, -immediately placed themselves in an attitude of prayer, by falling upon -their knees, crossing their hands upon their breasts, and casting their -eyes towards heaven. There was something really beautiful and touching -in the unfeigned humility with which these awe-struck mortals resigned -themselves to the will of Him who alone is able to convulse worlds, or -command tranquillity throughout the universe.</p> - -<p>Both of these tremors were slight, and neither did much mischief. But -the one that occurred four days previous to our arrival came very near -laying the whole city in ruins. The custom house, churches, stores, and -nearly all the principal buildings were cracked so badly that many of -them were considered dangerous. The people were engaged in pulling down -some entirely, and repairing others as best they could. The ground was -terribly rent in many places; and while on a stroll beyond the limits of -the city, I saw one crevasse which was about five inches in width, and -so long and so deep that I could find neither end nor bottom to it. We -remained in Valparaiso till the afternoon of Sat<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_202">{202}</a></span>urday, but did not feel -any other shock. For myself, I was satisfied with what I saw then, and -having been since shaken by them two or three times during my sojourn in -California, I hope I shall never feel another.</p> - -<p>As for the city itself, we saw nothing that was really beautiful about -it. The majority of the residences were built of mud and straw, and -covered with tiles; and were, I think, upon the whole, rather inferior -to the negro huts upon a southern plantation. The immense sterile hills -all round, about, and through the city, presented quite a dreary and -desolate appearance, and prevented us from seeing more than half the -number of its buildings at the same time. One of the merchants, a New -Orleans man, informed me that the population was estimated at from -60,000 to 65,000. Speaking of this merchant reminds me of a remarkable -instance of stupidity which came under my observation one morning while -visiting his store. He had just received fifty barrels of pork, which -the drayman had left before his door, and which he wished to have stowed -in his cellar. His regular porter being sick, he hired two doltish -countrymen to perform the job. It was stipulated that they should -receive a certain sum of money for removing the pork from the street -into the cellar; and the bargain being fairly understood on both sides, -they began to fulfil their part of the contract,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_203">{203}</a></span> by <i>lifting</i> the -barrels instead of rolling them. We allowed them to pursue this toilsome -system of labor until they had finished about one fifth of their task, -when we interposed and explained to them the easier method of -accomplishing it. It is a fact, according to their own confession, that -they had not sense enough to avail themselves of the rotundity of the -barrels.</p> - -<p>Valparaiso surpasses San Francisco in the abruptness of its surface and -the barrenness of its soil. There is no plant within sight of the town, -except here and there in the little vales and hollows. The inhabitants -have to bring all their supplies from beyond the coast range, a distance -of nine or ten miles; and as the hills are so large and so steep that -they cannot be traversed with vehicles, every thing must be transported -upon the backs of mules. The interior of Chili is represented to be a -very beautiful and productive country; and, to use the language of her -historian, “all the fruits of the earth grow there in the greatest -abundance.” Towards noon that day, we chartered some donkeys and rode -out about two miles, to a garden called the Vale of Paradise, in the -upper part of the city. This was one of the most charming spots I ever -beheld, and, with the exception of two or three other little places like -it, the only level and fertile piece of ground we saw during the whole -time we were there. Here, on the 9th of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_204">{204}</a></span> April, we got apples, pears, -peaches, pomegranates, pine apples, quinces, oranges, lemons, figs, -bananas, mangoes and melons, to our hearts’ content.</p> - -<p>On Thursday, having wandered from my comrades, I began to perambulate -the streets alone, determined to see and learn as much of the city as -practicable. At last I found I had wandered very nearly to its northern -outskirts, when I came to a little winding path, which I followed up -till it led me to the opened gate of a beautiful, palisaded inclosure. -Upon looking in I observed a long, clean, level walk in the midst of the -most delectable garden I ever saw. All the way overhead, from one end of -the walk to the other, there were large, luscious clusters of grapes, -hanging down in the richest profusion; while on either side there seemed -to be an actual rivalry in growth and luxuriance between the various -fruits and vegetables. About half way up the walk, in a well shaded -place, two middle-aged men, dressed in long robes, and with books in -their hands, were sitting on a bench, reading. Still I continued to -stand at the gate, admiring the fascinating scenery before me, being -seen by nobody, and seeing no one myself, except the two gownsmen, whose -attention seemed to be wholly absorbed by their books. To go in I feared -would not only be an interruption to the quietude and serenity which -per<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_205">{205}</a></span>vaded those elysian grounds, but also an intrusion upon the privacy -of gentlemen whom I had no right to disturb. However, hoping to frame a -reasonable excuse by offering to purchase some fruit, I stepped in, and -slowly approaching the literary group, inquired, “Do you speak English?” -Scarcely had the words fallen from my tongue, when the one who sat -farthest from me arose, and having replied in the affirmative, extended -his hand towards me in a very cordial manner, and then asked me a long -question in Latin, not a word of which I understood except the -termination, which was “St. Patrick?” Manifesting by my looks, as well -as I could, my ignorance of his ecclesiastical salutation, -interrogation, or whatever it was, he immediately dropped his classical -lore, and conversed with me freely in English—both of us, in the -meantime, promenading up and down the lovely arbor. From him I learned -that the adjoining buildings were occupied as a Roman Catholic college, -and that this garden was exclusively for the use and benefit of the -priests, of whom he was one, as well as a professor in the institution. -He informed me that it was the largest and most popular college in -Chili, and that they had students from nearly all the republics and -provinces of the continent. He himself was a native of Belgium, but had -emigrated to South America as a missionary some fifteen<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_206">{206}</a></span> years prior to -the time I saw him. The book he then held in his hand was a Spanish -history of the United States; and as he asked me a great many questions -concerning our country, I inferred that he felt a good deal of interest -in it. Upon the whole, he appeared to be a very kindhearted and -well-disposed man. Just before leaving, he presented me with a mammoth -bunch of delicious grapes, and at parting, gave my hand a courteous and -sincere shake.</p> - -<p>At this place we parted with the wrecked crew we had picked up five -weeks before, leaving them in the hands of the Russian consul. But -before bidding a final adieu to the captain, we purchased a gold ring -and inclosed it in a sympathizing epistle to his wife, condoling with -her in her husband’s misfortunes. When we committed the letter and -little keepsake to his charge, he seemed to be very much affected, and -acknowledged himself under a thousand obligations to us.</p> - -<p>Little occurred on our passage from Valparaiso to San Francisco worthy -of note, except the myriads of fish of various kinds which we saw -between the tropics, the sublime sunrises and sunsets, the enchanting -moonlight evenings, and the phosphorescent phenomena of the ocean at -night. The Pacific far surpasses the Atlantic in beauty and diversity of -ocean scenery. Its gentle gales and placid waves inexpressibly<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_207">{207}</a></span> charm -the heart of the sailor. Almost every species of fish, from the tiny -pilchard to the monstrous whale may be found in its waters; while -countless numbers of aquatic birds, from the diminutive petrel to the -ponderous albatross, swim lazily upon its bosom.</p> - -<p>Six days after leaving Valparaiso we passed within a short distance of -the St. Felix Islands, which rise alone out of the world of water. We -could see nothing that had life in it about them, nor any thing that was -inviting or pleasing to the eye. On the morning of the 5th May, we again -crossed the equator, in longitude 114°.</p> - -<p>This voyage afforded us an excellent opportunity for reading; but it may -well be supposed that, in traveling seventeen thousand miles upon the -water, we were sometimes overcome with ennui. As a refuge from this -monotony of “life on the ocean wave,” we betook ourselves to games of -euchre, whist, chess, backgammon and solitaire. Our ship being very -large, perfectly new, beautifully and comfortably finished, and -furnished with the very best accommodations, eatables and drinkables, we -enjoyed ourselves remarkably well, except while sea-sick, or when dashed -and beaten about by ill-bred storms and hurricanes. As there were only -six passengers besides myself, we had abundance of room; and being -together so long, and secluded from all other society, we became as -sociable and familiar<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_208">{208}</a></span> as if we had all been members of the same -household. A very amiable and estimable young lady, the sister of a -passenger, and the only female on board, contributed in an eminent -degree to the pleasure of the trip.</p> - -<p>We arrived in San Francisco on the 25th of May, having made the passage -in one hundred and thirteen days from New York. This was a very quick -run, considering the misfortunes we met with off the Bermudas. If we had -not been dismasted, we would probably have reached our destination -twelve or fifteen days earlier. The Flying Cloud, clipper-modeled, and -built almost exactly like the Stag Hound, ran from New York to San -Francisco in eighty-nine days, which is the shortest voyage that has yet -been made by a sailing vessel between the two ports. Many of the -old-fashioned ships crawl along for seven or eight months: and I know -one blunt, tub-like carac which consumed three hundred and seventy days -in the passage.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_209">{209}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">VOYAGE FROM CALIFORNIA VIA NICARAGUA.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">About</span> six hundred homeward-bound passengers, myself included, left San -Francisco on the 16th of March, in the splendid steamship Cortes, under -command of Captain Cropper. It being our intention to reach the -Caribbean sea by the Nicaragua route, we bent our course towards San -Juan del Sur. Wind and wave both favored our movements, and we made -rapid progress. Stray thoughts occupied my mind as my eyes rested for -the last time upon the barren hills of California. There I had witnessed -many strange sights and incidents. Should I ever see them again? Was it -probable that I would stop to renew my acquaintance with them while on -my way to Japan and China in 1875, by the great Atlantic and Pacific -railway? My mind, however, was occupied but a little while in the -consideration of these matters. There was before me a country which -engendered a brighter train of thoughts than that which I was leaving -behind. I began to think of greeting the good old folks at home; of -joining long-parted hands, and of roaming over the glades and glens -which first supported my tottering steps.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_210">{210}</a></span></p> - -<p>Our gallant ship continued to glide bravely on towards the place of her -destination. Neither accident nor rough weather happened to us, and we -should have enjoyed ourselves finely if there had not been so many -persons on board. The crowd was too large for a pleasure party at sea. -There were too many months to feed, too many berths to adjust, and too -many complaints to be heard. Somebody was always in the way of somebody -else. We were too much pent up. There was an abundance of room all -around us, above and below us; but it was not adapted to our purposes. -The Cortez was our only foothold; and it was necessary that we should -cling to her as the only means of reaching terra firma.</p> - -<p>But I imagine those of us who had state-rooms on the cabin-deck would -not have felt any disposition to murmur, if we had known how much better -we fared than the other passengers. Only about one hundred and fifty -enjoyed this advantage; all the others were huddled together in the -steerage. Is it reasonable to suppose that any considerable number of -these four hundred and fifty persons would have engaged such -uncomfortable and unwholesome passage, if they could have done better? -No. They could scarcely have been hired to pass through the torrid zone -in the steerage, if they had possessed money enough to pay for a -cabin-passage. It is a well-known fact that the steamers bring a much<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_211">{211}</a></span> -larger number of steerage passengers from California than they take -there. The majority of those that go to California take passage in the -cabin; but more than two-thirds of those who return occupy the steerage. -As a matter of course, there was no communication between the cabin and -steerage passengers; at least those in the steerage were not allowed to -come abaft the ship; but I do not think our privileges were -circumscribed in this respect, for I went forward of the bulkhead -several times, as did many others who belonged in the cabin, and the -officers said nothing to us.</p> - -<p>There was quite a medley of characters in the cabin. Bishop Soule, of -the Methodist Episcopal Church, South, may be placed at the head. He is -a stout, fine-looking old gentleman, about seventy years of age; and I -sincerely believe he was the best man aboard the vessel. He had been -stirring up the sinners in California for some time, and was now -returning to his home in Georgia. Next came the Rev. Dr. Boring and -three or four other clergymen, one of whom had formerly been a -missionary in Brazil. The Secretary of Utah Territory, a downright jolly -fellow, dressed in a suit of buckskin, and who, while on the Isthmus, -manifested a most ardent passion for parrots, was also on board. Besides -these, there were eight colonels, seven majors, five captains, three -professors, six doctors, ten<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_212">{212}</a></span> quacks, five lawyers, eight pettifoggers, -a score of blacklegs, six or eight ladies, a dozen other adult females, -and fifteen or twenty children. We also had the company of a Polish -patriot, who was on his way to the East to join the Turkish army.</p> - -<p>On the seventh or eighth day after our departure from San Francisco, one -of the passengers, while taking spy-glass observations, espied a -motionless object at a great distance on the water—the sea at the time -being perfectly calm and smooth. The spy-glass passed rapidly from hand -to hand, and was kept almost constantly leveled towards the object; but -nobody could determine what it was. One man thought it a ship in -distress; another inclined to the opinion that it was abandoned -altogether; while a third sighingly expressed his conviction that it was -the decaying remnant of a melancholy wreck. The captain, more -dispassionate, experienced, and capable of forming a correct judgment, -now surveyed it carefully; but it was so far off upon the larboard -quarter, that he acknowledged himself unable to give any reliable -information concerning it. What then was to be done? Should we stifle -our curiosity and continue on our course, or should we change and go to -the mysterious object? Some favored one proposition, and some the other. -Considerable betting had been going on as to the number of days we<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_213">{213}</a></span> -would be occupied in making the passage, and one half of those who had -thus wagered their money were opposed to losing the time which it would -require to make the examination. But the motion to go being seconded and -sanctioned by a large majority of the passengers, the captain -immediately turned the prow of the steamer.</p> - -<p>After sailing awhile on this new track, we discovered a large flock of -longipennate birds flying around the wreck to which we were then bound. -This was an ominous sign. What were these sea buzzards doing about a -disabled vessel, if they were not feeding on the dead bodies of seamen? -But the rapid movement of the Cortez assured us that our curiosity -should soon be allayed. With the aid of the spy-glass we could now view -the object distinctly; and on approaching still nearer, we found it was -nothing but an old empty scow! and that it was frequented by the fowls -of the sea merely because it afforded them a place to rest and to roost. -What a sore disappointment it was, not to find the carcasses of a -hundred starved sailors! A day or two after this, one of the steerage -passengers died, an old sail was wrapped around him, two pieces of -pig-iron were fastened to his feet, and he was cast overboard.</p> - -<p>Early in the morning of the thirteenth day of our pilgrimage upon the -water, we arrived at San Juan del Sur, a miserable, good-for-nothing<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_214">{214}</a></span> -little town, situated on the western coast of Nicaragua, near the -eleventh parallel of north latitude. The harbor was as mean and ugly as -the town, being very small, shallow and inconvenient. There were no -piers nor wharves, and we had to cast anchor about one hundred and fifty -yards from the shore. Large yawls were then prepared for us, and we were -conveyed as near terra firma as the depth of the harbor would allow. But -when the yawls struck bottom, I think we were still from twenty-five to -thirty yards from the water’s edge; and there were no means or -facilities of reaching the shore, except by wading, or by straddling the -shoulders of the half-breed, quarter-dressed natives, scores of whom, in -the hope of making a few shillings, were standing waist-deep in the -water all around us, and begging us to take seats on their backs, a -request with which, after some deliberation, we complied.</p> - -<p>During this novel process of debarkation, I witnessed some most -ludicrous scenes. The Nicaraguans, generally speaking, are much more -feeble, dwarfed, and effeminate than the people of the United States. On -an average, I should think that one able-bodied Kentuckian would be -equal to four or five of these hybrid denizens of the torrid zone. It -will not, therefore, surprise the reader when I tell him that the small -man, while carrying the large one through the water,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_215">{215}</a></span> being top-heavy, -would sometimes drop his burden! Nor was this all; the ladies were yet -behind, and they had to be brought ashore in the same manner!</p> - -<p>Among our passengers were two or three oleaginous men, of Falstaff -proportions; one of whom engaged a couple of the stoutest carriers -around the yawl to convey him to the shore. Fixing himself upon their -shoulders as well as he could, he signified to them that he was ready, -and they made for land; but before they had proceeded half a dozen -steps, he weighed them down, and all three fell flat on their backs in -the water! This little mishap created a great deal of merriment; and -several others who had just mounted and started, unable to restrain -their laughter, leaned back too far to give it vent, and down they -tumbled into the water likewise! It was necessary for the rider, or -topmost man, to keep himself in a quiet, perpendicular position; for if -he leaned backward, or forward, or sideway, he was sure to throw the -carrier off his equilibrium, in which case both of them would fall down -together.</p> - -<p>The ladies had now arrived from the Cortez, and were ready to disembark. -There was but one way for them to get ashore, and that has already been -explained. They, too, were compelled to straddle the shoulders of the -natives; and when fairly mounted, give the signal of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_216">{216}</a></span> command, and ride -ahead boldly, like equestrian amazons in a circus. It may here be -remarked that these men were nearly naked, there being no apparel upon -them except a kind of bandage or wrapper around their loins. The manner -of mounting the carrier, whose head was almost on a level with the rim -of the yawl, was to place the right limb over his right shoulder, and -the left over his left; and when thus conveyed to the shore, it was a -very easy matter to part the limbs from his shoulders, and slide down -his back. These, then, were the means and facilities which were afforded -for the disembarkation of the ladies; and I have thus dwelt upon the -subject for the purpose of informing my fair readers, if I have any, -what they may expect upon their arrival at San Juan del Sur.</p> - -<p>All the passengers and baggage were now landed, and after a deal of -vexation in securing checks and transit tickets, we set forward across -the country in the direction of Virgin Bay, a shabby village, situated -about fifteen miles distant, on Lake Nicaragua. We traveled this part of -the way on donkeys. The roads were in pretty fair condition, and a few -of the ladies, being well skilled in horsemanship, rode sideways, but -the majority of them having but little knowledge of equestrian -exercises, rode like men. This was my first entrance into the dismal -glories of a tropical forest. The trees pressed against each other for<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_217">{217}</a></span> -room, and were clothed with the heaviest and most luxuriant foliage I -ever beheld, presenting every tint and shade of green. Coppice and -parasites filled up the interstices between them. Myriads of -gay-plumaged birds warbled upon their branches. Ten thousand times ten -thousand insects chirped beneath their limbs. Nimble monkeys ran up -their trunks, and venomous reptiles slept in their shadows.</p> - -<p>To give an idea of the weather, I will simply say that, if I intended to -become a citizen of Nicaragua, I should advocate the immediate -construction of three public works, namely: a government bellows, a -state fan, and a great national umbrella! With the aid of these cooling -machines, I should think a person might manage to keep passably -comfortable; but without them, the heat is almost intolerable. In our -own country, the people are apt to complain of the hot days which dawn -upon them in July and August, but the caloric of the United States bears -no more comparison to that of Nicaragua than a frosty morning in -Carolina to a perpetual winter in Greenland.</p> - -<p>We rode on, however, in spite of the fiery heat of the sun, and arrived -at Virgin Bay in good season for dinner. There were eight or ten dirty -little taverns in this despicable little town, and as it was uncertain -how long we should have to wait for our baggage, which was still -behind,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_218">{218}</a></span> and which was not expected before night, we placed ourselves in -charge of the landlords, who were highly pleased to receive such a -multitude of guests. About four o’clock in the afternoon, I went down to -the lake to bathe, having been previously assured that the alligators -did not frequent that side of the bay, except during the night.</p> - -<p>The scenery here was grand beyond description. Lake Nicaragua itself may -be justly termed an inland sea. It is more than one hundred miles long, -and sixty miles in width. Mount Ometepe, a dormant volcano, and by far -the most beautiful elevation I ever saw, rises up out of the midst of -this lake, in the form of a sugar-loaf, to the height of seven thousand -feet. At a rough guess, I should say it was about fifty miles in -circumference at the base, or rather at the surface of the water.</p> - -<p>A little before sunset, I returned to my hotel, and took supper. I had, -however, but little appetite for culinary preparations, for I had fed -myself on such a quantity of mangoes, oranges, bananas, and other -tropical fruits, that I was quite surfeited. Forty or fifty hammocks -were suspended in the loft of the hotel, and these were more attractive -than any other part of the entertainment.</p> - -<p>We sat up until nearly midnight, waiting for our baggage, but it did not -come; and we were then informed that it would not arrive before<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_219">{219}</a></span> -morning. The sun arose and found us still separated from our effects. -Noon came and brought the baggage with it. Thus you see we had suffered -an unnecessary delay of twenty-four hours at Virgin Bay. The steamer -Ometepe was now ready to receive us, and as we were all anxious to reach -home, we lost no time in going aboard. From this place we sailed in a -south-easterly direction until breakfast hour next morning, when we -arrived at Fort San Carlos, where we entered the San Juan river, which -conveys the waters of Lake Nicaragua into the Caribbean Sea. There was -nothing to be seen at San Carlos, except the dilapidated fort, and it -was not worth looking at. Here we had to leave the Ometepe, and embark -on a smaller boat, the river being too shallow to float a vessel of deep -draught.</p> - -<p>Pursuing the current of the San Juan, we passed the unworthy little -village of Castillo, and again changed boats, leaving one of sorry -dimensions behind, and taking passage in a meaner one of less size, and -now came the peculiar annoyance of the route. Owing to the shoals and -sand banks in the river, we had to change ourselves and our baggage -several times; and every change we made was from bad to worse. Those of -us who had taken passage in the cabin, though we had paid more than -double the price of steerage tickets, received no extra accommodation -whatever. We were reduced to a level<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_220">{220}</a></span> with the steerage passengers at -San Juan del Sur, and no manner of distinction was made between us until -we reached the opposite coast. For three days and nights we were all -crowded together in utter disorder and confusion; men, women and -children, white people and negroes, decent men and blackguards—all -fared alike. The presence of the ladies did not seem to exercise any -restraint upon the tongues of the vulgar. I am sure I had never before -been in the company of a set of human beings who were capable of giving -utterance to such an incessant volley of scurrilous and obscene language -as I heard while crossing the Isthmus.</p> - -<p>There was not a mouthful of victuals prepared for us on board of these -miserable, rickety little steamers; nor was there any place to sleep, -except on deck, among puddles of tobacco juice. Occasionally we had an -opportunity of buying fruits and refreshments on the way; and this was -the only method we had of procuring any thing to eat. I do not think I -slept two hours out of the seventy-two which we occupied in passing the -two oceans. Indeed, the Transit Company treated us very shabbily. We had -paid them their price, and they had promised us better things. -Sometimes, to save the steamer from running aground, we had to debark, -and walk on the bank of the river. On one occasion we were compelled to -travel more than two miles<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_221">{221}</a></span> in this manner, before we could find water -deep enough to carry us aboard the boat. As we neared the mouth of the -river, we met and overtook a great many adult natives, who were in the -same costume in which nature had launched them into the world. They did -not seem to be conscious of any impropriety in thus exposing their -persons.</p> - -<p>Nicaragua can never fulfil its destiny until it introduces negro -slavery. Nothing but slave labor can ever subdue its forests or -cultivate its untimbered lands. White men may live upon its soil with an -umbrella in one hand and a fan in the other; but they can never unfold -or develop its resources. May we not safely conclude that negro slavery -will be introduced into this country before the lapse of many years? We -think so. The tendency of events fully warrants this inference.</p> - -<p>The time may come when negro slavery will no longer be profitable in the -United States; and it is also possible that the descendants of Ham may -finally work their way beyond the present limits of our country. But if -these fated people ever do make their exodus from the hands of their -present owners, they will find themselves journeying and toiling under -the control of new masters, in the fertile wildernesses and savannas -nearer the equator. Louisiana and Texas may, at some future time<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_222">{222}</a></span>—far -in the future—find it to their interest to adopt the white slavery -system of the North; but if negro slavery ever ceases to exist in the -United States, Mexico, Central America, and the countries still further -South, will have to become its outlets and receptacles.</p> - -<p>It would be no easy task to find a more feeble and ineffective -population than that which now idles away a miserable existence in -Nicaragua. Nature is too bountiful to the inhabitants. It supplies them -with every necessary of life, and consequently there is no incentive to -exertion or emulation. Countless fruits and nuts grow and ripen -spontaneously, and they have nothing to do but to eat them. We did not -pass a single patch of ground under cultivation; nor did I see any -improvement, except the despicable little huts and shanties in which the -people lived.</p> - -<p>On the morning of the first day of April, we arrived at San Juan del -Norte, alias Greytown, which has recently handed its name down to -history, in connection with that of commander Hollins, by whom, in -compliance with instructions from our government, it was bombarded a few -months ago. We did not go on shore, but I saw enough of the place to -convince me that it was never worth half the paper which has been -spoiled by diplomatic notes concerning it. The Americans call it -Greytown, but the original Spanish name is San Juan del Norte, which,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_223">{223}</a></span> -when Anglicized, means Saint John of the North. As we have had a good -deal to say respecting San Juan del Sur, it may not be amiss to state -that the English of it is Saint John of the South. Just before we left -the mouth of the river, we saw eight or ten full-grown alligators, -basking on an islet, thirty or forty yards from us. They were all lying -near each other, and did not seem to be frightened at our appearance. I -was well pleased to have such a fair view of these amiable lizards, but -regretted my inability to secure one for Barnum! About three hundred of -our passengers waved us an adieu at Greytown, and took passage in the -steamer Daniel Webster for New Orleans. The rest immediately set sail -for New York, in the steamer Star of the West.</p> - -<p>We now found ourselves happily situated where we had good order, good -accommodations, and good treatment—three good things which many of us -had not been accustomed to for three long years. An air of propriety and -fitness pervaded the Star of the West fore and aft; and we felt as if we -were emerging from a vile and debased community, and entering upon the -threshold of refined society. No incident worthy of note occurred during -this part of our voyage. We were in hopes the captain would stop at -Kingston, Havana, or some other West India port; but he had no occasion -to do so. Passing on between Cuba and Yucatan, we rounded the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_224">{224}</a></span> Florida -Reefs, and then followed the Gulf stream until we reached the latitude -of Cape Hatteras, when we bore nearer the land, and ran into the harbor -of New York on Sunday, April 9th, having had a passage of twenty-four -days from San Francisco.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_225">{225}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">MY LAST MINING ADVENTURE.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">More</span> than satisfied with the experience I had acquired in mining -operations in California, I found much difficulty in deciding upon my -future course. At one time I made up my mind to try what the fickle jade -fortune would do for me in Australia, and even went so far as to engage -a passage on board of a ship that would sail for Sydney within a week. -An acquaintance and friend, to whom I imparted my intentions, earnestly -persuaded me to abandon my projected voyage, and urged me to accompany -him to Columbia and take an interest in a very promising mining -adventure. My friend said “he felt quite sure that we could make an -ounce ($16) a day each with the utmost ease, provided we were favored -with sufficient rain. And as the rainy season was close at hand, he was -fully satisfied that we should have as plentiful a supply of water as -our mining operations would require.” I had heard of these diggings -frequently, and that gold was found there in great abundance, but as no -stream watered these surface mines, they could only be worked during the -rainy season.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_226">{226}</a></span> As my friend’s story was corroborated by my own knowledge -of these things, I agreed without much hesitation to abandon my voyage -to Australia, and join him in this new mining expedition—mentally -resolving, however, that it should be the last of my efforts to become -suddenly rich by delving for gold in the mines of California.</p> - -<p>We left San Francisco in the latter part of the month of October, ran up -the river San Joaquin to Stockton in a stern-wheel steamboat, so crowded -with passengers that berths were entirely out of the question, and so we -were doomed to get through the night as best we could. And such a night! -It is my candid belief that for some unknown reason this particular -night lasted as long as thirteen others combined together, and that -during its continuance, I visited the infernal regions, upon the -pressing invitation of a legion of fiends, all wearing Chinamen’s hats -and long tails; moreover, I solemnly assert that almost every winged -insect and other creeping thing within a circuit of fifty leagues paid -their respects to us on board that miserable little steamboat. I have a -faint recollection of invoking the aid of all the saints in the calendar -for relief, but they would not hear me, and so I e’en concluded to -imitate great Cæsar’s example at the base of Pompey’s statue,—wrap my -head in my mantle, and thus resign myself to inexorable fate. As<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_227">{227}</a></span> to my -friend, I had lost sight of him almost as soon as we entered the boat, -and it was no small gratification to think that remorse had caused him -to commit suicide, or some such thing. I trusted he had leaped overboard -from sheer compunction of conscience for having deluded me into this -scrape, and hoped by drowning himself to atone in some measure for his -atrocious conduct. Poor fellow! I forgave him, and mentally resolved to -get up something pathetic in the shape of an obituary notice, as thus: -Departed this life, on the evening of the 25th of October, 1853, by -water, one Shad Back, (real name supposed to be Shadrach Bachus,) aged -34, or there-away. The immediate cause of his death was remorse of -conscience for having decoyed an unsuspecting and virtuous youth on -board of a poor miserable craft crowded with passengers, without berths, -without seats, and swarming with vermin of every description, including -Chinamen. It is supposed that, in a moment of despair, produced by -witnessing the distress of his victim, he jumped into the river and was -drowned. His numerous friends cannot but bewail his untimely end, -although <i>some</i> are of the opinion that it “sarved him right.” -<i>Requiescat in pace.</i></p> - -<p>I thought I would add to this a verse or so from some suitable ditty, -but could hit upon nothing that would reach the case better than a -portion of Gray’s Elegy, beginning: “Here rests<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_228">{228}</a></span> his head upon this lap -of earth,” &c. Now as I was not fully convinced that “his head <i>did</i> -rest upon this lap of earth,” I deemed it best to change the text -slightly to meet the melancholy occasion, and make it read thus:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0"><i>There</i> rests beneath the briny wave,<br></span> -<span class="i2">A youth to linen and to soap unknown;<br></span> -<span class="i0">Fair science frowned, but failed to save<br></span> -<span class="i2">This blessed youth, who then went down.<br></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>I confess my inability to state distinctly what is meant by the last -line; it seemed to rhyme with “unknown,” and as I never had been guilty -of an attempt of this kind before, I thought it would do very well as a -first effort in the line of poetry. I may as well here explain also, -that as I intended to have the whole thing painted upon a good sized -shingle, and that nailed upon some tree near the sea shore, I thought it -would be a good idea to have the hand with an extended finger painted -conspicuously on the shingle, to serve as a pointer towards the ocean; -this would sufficiently explain the meaning of “<i>there rests</i>,” and -“<i>briny wave</i>.”</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding the bodily torments I underwent during that livelong -night, with my head wrapped in a mantle and all the rest of my person -fairly given over to the tender mercies of thousands of mosquitos, -gnats, sand-flies, ants, ticks, fleas and bed-bugs, I really experienced -a strong sensation of relief upon reflecting how<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_229">{229}</a></span> very handsomely I had -disposed of my friend’s earthly affairs. At the same time I thought it -quite possible that my good intentions towards his memory, coupled with -the fact of my sufferings, and the pains and penalties I had undergone -and was still enduring, would in a measure serve as a sort of atonement -for my own sins of omission and commission, beginning far back, at a -very early period of my life.</p> - -<p>Morning dawned at last, and I was in the very act of gathering the -remainder of my person into an upright position, when I heard a voice, -proceeding from beneath an immense heap of Chinamen, Irishmen, and -niggers, calling me by name, and entreating my assistance to get him -upon his legs. I seemed to know the voice very well, but could not -recall to mind the owner. Deeming it, however, the duty of a good -Christian to help a distressed fellow-creature, I made my way through -the crowd to the spot whence the voice issued, and there, to my intense -grief and astonishment, I beheld my friend Shad upon his back, actively -engaged in repelling, with hands and feet, the united assaults of a -strong force, composed of three Irishmen and four Chinese fellows. I -became convinced, the moment I saw his position, that if he escaped -hanging for his misdemeanors in California, he would become a great -general, and an ornament to the military profession. I came to this -conclusion<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_230">{230}</a></span> because, at the moment I saw him, he was preparing to repel -the enemy in a most masterly manner. The allies were <i>en potence</i>, and -had already attacked and dispersed Shad’s advanced guard, making -prisoners of his outlying pickets (his boots and hat) in a gallant -manner. Then with a determination to conquer or die, rushed upon the -main body. Here, after a most desperate struggle, during which many -great deeds of daring were exhibited, the enemy were repulsed with -immense loss. Much as I deprecate war in any shape, yet I could not -sufficiently admire the calm and collected appearance of Shad, even when -in the heat of the <i>melee</i>. One particular feat performed by one of -Shad’s feet, was observed by me with much astonishment, and it seemed to -strike an Irishman very forcibly too, as he honored the performance by -immediate prostration. The enemy had retired to a distance, and no doubt -held a council of war, and from the disposition of his forces shortly -after, I judged his intention was to make a demonstration upon Shad’s -front, and then attack him with his whole concentrated force in the -rear. My conjecture proved correct. I saw in a moment that this manœvre -must prove successful, unless Shad could strengthen his flanks, or form -himself into a hollow square. And here it soon became apparent how -profoundly my friend had studied the art of attack and defence. A pocket -edition<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_231">{231}</a></span> of Vauban must have been his constant companion, or he never -could have assumed such a formidable appearance as that which he now -presented. Like an able general, he had divined the enemy’s intentions, -and to meet the emergency, had disposed his person in such a manner that -he could swing himself around like a teetotum while lying upon his back, -much the same as a long eighteen upon a pivot. In this position, or -rather with this rotary motion, Shad was invulnerable. He presented a -front in every direction, and utterly defeated the enemy’s most -strenuous efforts to capture him.</p> - -<p>At this stage of the proceedings, I proposed mediating between the high -contending parties, which proposal being acceded to, I forthwith decided -the matter in difference, (of which I did not understand one word,) by -decreeing a forfeiture of Shad’s boots, the restoration of his hat, and -the payment by Shad for two gallons of <i>red-eye</i>, to regale the company. -This last decision was received with marked respect by all but my poor -friend. It was also decreed that the captured boots should belong -hereafter to the most <i>devout</i> of the belligerents. Thereupon they were -deposited at the feet of a boy from the sod, who, since his prostration, -had been seated on deck, curved up in a manner quite curious to behold. -He resembled the capital letter G as much as any thing I could think of -at the time. Peace<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_232">{232}</a></span> having been solemnly proclaimed, I had now an -opportunity of better observing my friend Back’s personal appearance. He -had never been very remarkable for great personal beauty at any period -of his life, and as the late battle had not left him wholly unscathed, -it would have proved a great hit indeed to an artist, if he could have -taken his likeness just then! When we came on board of this infernal -boat, Mr. Shad Back possessed a pair of bright blue eyes, which by some -uncommon process had been converted, during the night, into a pair (or -rather one and a half) of dismal black ones; his nose, always flat, was -now scarcely discernible at all—it had been absolutely beaten into his -face; lips as thick and black as those of a Loango negro, and without a -tooth in his head to save him from starvation. The fact is, my friend -Shad had received as severe a mauling as one man could well stagger -under; and although I pitied him truly and sincerely, yet I could not -help feeling a sort of disappointment at knowing he was not drowned or -dead in some way, and it <i>is</i> a great disappointment to any one, after -making extensive preparations to mourn the fate of a man who he hopes -will commit suicide. After he has adjusted his face and his garments to -represent a decent amount of grief, and above all, after he has composed -his epitaph, including therein a scrap of touching poetry, to find that -he is not dead nor<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_233">{233}</a></span> drowned after all, I say again, <i>is</i> a -disappointment and a great shame.</p> - -<p>But, supposing “all things are for the best,” I swallowed my chagrin and -a cup of (stewed mud) coffee together, resolving to write no man’s -epitaph until I had the sexton’s certificate, or officiated in person at -the crowner’s or coroner’s inquest.</p> - -<p>We landed in Stockton a little before noon of the same day, and thence -took passage in a lumber wagon for Columbia, in or near which place the -mines were situated. Columbia is in Tuolumne county, near the base of -the Sierra Nevada, and contains about 2,000 inhabitants. Its mines are -said to be the richest in the State. As we had come here for the express -purpose of making a fortune without let or hindrance, and with as little -labor as possible, we went to work at once, digging and toiling like men -determined to become millionaires within a week at the farthest. In a -few days we had collected a large mass of dirt together, and only waited -for rain to afford us an opportunity of testing its value. But the rain -would not come. Every morning, for at least a month, Shad predicted rain -in torrents, and got drunk without delay, in order, as he said, to -celebrate an event of so much consequence to our future fortunes. Sure -enough, the rain did come at last. It continued to fall somewhat briskly -for about an hour, then it ceased for<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_234">{234}</a></span> an hour or so. Again it fell for -another hour, and thus during the day we had rain and sunshine -alternating very systematically indeed, and quite encouragingly.</p> - -<p>The amount of water that had fallen barely sufficed to wet the thirsty -earth, and it would therefore require just six such rainy days to give -us water sufficient to commence our washing operations. Mr. Back’s -extensive researches into the science of astronomy enabled him to -predict an astonishing amount of wet weather; at least such, he said, -was <i>prognoxicated</i> by the <i>starring ferment</i>, that really the stars -were looking so very wet and uncomfortable, that he could not but pity -their condition, especially jolly old Aaron, with the belt. Shad had -drunk a more than ordinary quantity of liquor that day, in -commemoration, I suppose, of the beginning of the rainy season.</p> - -<p>We were now well into the month of December. The rainy season usually -commences about the middle of November, and continues almost without -intermission until the latter part of February. The year previous it had -rained for three months without cessation; now we had no rain. December -passed away, and January had come, still the drought continued. Men and -animals drooped, the earth had become baked, not a shrub, not a leaf, -no, not even a blade of grass could be seen in any direction. A drier -season had never been known in that region.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_235">{235}</a></span> Shad had been sober for -several days upon compulsion entirely. He could get no more liquor, not -because the fiery draught was scarce, but for want of money to pay for -it. My own funds were out, gone to liquidate our daily expenses, so that -the prospect before us looked gloomy enough. I think, had it been our -good fortune to have water, we should have made a very handsome sum out -of our large heap of dirt. Without water, to separate the precious metal -from the dirt, we could do nothing. About the 20th of January it rained -nearly all the morning. “Hope told a flattering tale.” Alas for us poor -devils, the rain ceased at noon; this same half a day’s rain cost Shad -the only shirt he had for liquor. He said he felt morally certain the -rainy season had set in <i>now</i>, and that he would have a regular -jollification upon the strength of it, if it cost him his shirt, and it -<i>did</i> cost him his shirt.</p> - -<p>The season was now so far advanced that we could no longer hope for -continuous rain, if it came at all; so I resolved, though with -reluctance and after much deliberation, to abandon our <i>pile of gold</i> -and make the best of my way back to San Francisco. It was all well -enough that I should make a resolve of this description, but the -principal part of the affair would be to carry it into effect. The -<i>primum mobile</i>, the <i>sinews of war</i>, the <i>wherewith</i> must first be -found<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_236">{236}</a></span> before I could budge an inch. It was next to impossible to expect -aid or counsel from poor Shad. He, good, susceptible soul, had fallen a -willing victim to the artful blandishments of an ancient squaw, not so -much on account of her great personal attractions as in consequence of -her valuable possessions, which consisted of a dilapidated blanket and a -keg of whiskey. I was quite charmed with the appearance of the squaw, -she so strongly resembled a kangaroo; indeed it was quite a treat to see -the pair together, it being problematical which was the most hideous, or -the most beastly. I found it utterly useless to remonstrate with him; in -fact, he never was in a fitting condition to understand me: so I made up -my mind to leave him. Through the kindness of a friend, which was -afterwards reciprocated, I was enabled to pay the few debts I had -contracted, and to leave Columbia with a trifle of money, which, with -economy, enabled me to reach San Francisco in due time.</p> - -<p>Thus terminated my last mining adventure in the gold regions of -California.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_237">{237}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEE.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">The</span> title of our chapter will bring up to the minds of all who visited -California, during its early days, some startling recollections. The -Vigilance Committee was the institution of that country, striking terror -into all evil doers. Like all energetic associations, it was capable of -being abused and sometimes ran into extremes, but its worst enemies -cannot deny that it was the only thing which could suppress crime at the -time it was in power.</p> - -<p>Great mistakes are made in regard to this organization by most writers -who have spoken of it. They have committed the very common error of -judging of the institutions of one set of people by the standard of -another. They have applied to California the same rule which would guide -them in their judgment of an Atlantic State. In reality, however, there -is no parallel between the two. The latter is inhabited by a population -educated to regard the law as the paramount authority. The lawless are -in the minority among them. Years of good government have taught the -criminal to look upon the public au<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_238">{238}</a></span>thorities as his bitterest foes, and -the honest man to regard them as his friends and protectors.</p> - -<p>In California, however, every thing was the reverse of this. No sooner -were her doors thrown open and her treasures disclosed, than people from -every quarter of the globe thronged to her shores. Men of industrious -habits and adventurous spirit went thither of course, as they always -hasten to every new field of enterprise. The crowd of newcomers, -however, was swelled by others of a far different character. Plunder was -of course to be had, and the swindlers and desperadoes, who live by -their wits, were quite as eager to visit the new country as were the -honest miners who had come to wrench fortune from the flinty bowels of -the earth by their brawny arms.</p> - -<p>Villains from all parts of the world swarmed upon the new soil. Cunning -sharpers from New England, desperate vagabonds from Texas, bogus men -from the north-west, and reckless plunderers from the prairies hastened -to California like crows to a corn-field. Mexico sent thither her sly -robbers, Chili and Peru furnished their secret assassins. The penal -colonies of Great Britain vomited their refuse upon this unhappy land, -and even savage pirates from the Eastern Archipelago found their way to -El Dorado. The territory numbered among her inhabitants accomplished -thieves, burglars and cut-throats from<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_239">{239}</a></span> every civilized and barbarous -country within reach, men who had been familiar with courts and jails, -and all punishments short of death.</p> - -<p>It may readily be understood what a state of society existed there. The -laws of the United States were, by a figure of speech, said to be in -force over the new territory. Really, however, they were as impotent as -they are in a village of Blackfeet among the Rocky Mountains. The -officers of the law were utterly powerless. Rarely did they attempt to -assert their authority, and when they did make the effort, they signally -failed. The only law recognized there was that of the strongest. The -correct aim, the steady hand, the strong arm were the only protectors of -a Californian in those days. He might as well lean upon a wilted blade -of grass as upon the legal authorities.</p> - -<p>This condition of affairs afforded a fine harvest to the amiable -gentlemen who had come hither to practice their professions. Robberies -and murders became every-day occurrences, of no more importance than an -assault and battery on election day. The most daring outrages were every -where committed with impunity. Unoffending men were shot down and -pillaged in broad daylight; shops were broken open; haciendas were -stormed;—in short, the country was in a state of siege, and the -blackguards were in the ascendent.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_240">{240}</a></span></p> - -<p>At this critical period, some of the settlers fortunately recollected a -similar state of affairs in the country between the Mississippi and the -Alleghanies, and the sharp but effective remedy which was then applied. -They remembered how organized bands of robbers had infested the states -and territories of the Mississippi Valley, how judges and constables and -sheriffs had been connected with these infamous associations, how -justice was perpetually defrauded of her dues, because juries composed -of members of the same villainous fraternity could easily be packed; and -how, finally, the honest portion of the community, exasperated beyond -endurance by these repeated villainies, took the law in their own hands, -and remorselessly hung and shot all the desperadoes who fell into their -power, with the ultimate effect of restoring peace and good order.</p> - -<p>The same evil demanded the same remedy. The Vigilance Committee was -organized. It was composed of the best men in San Francisco, men who -would have been the most zealous supporters of the law, had there been -any law to support; men of firmness and resolution who were determined -to have peace and security at all hazards. It was not exactly a secret -society, but some sort of privacy was necessary to be observed. Were its -agents generally known, not only would they be marked out for the secret -vengeance of the vermin they were hunting down,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_241">{241}</a></span> but their vigilance -would be more easily evaded, and the operations of the committee -crippled.</p> - -<p>The most important question which occurred to the committee, at its very -formation, was the disposition to be made of the criminals arrested by -its agents. They had no prisons at their command, and had no time to -devote to the tedious formalities of law proceedings. Ropes, however, -were at their disposal, and even California had trees enough to answer -their purposes, except San Francisco, where the pulleys upon hoisting -beams which projected from the warehouses afforded a very convenient -substitute. Their code, therefore, necessarily resembled Draco’s. For -graver crimes they hung their culprits, for minor offences they flogged -them, rode them on rails, tarred and feathered them, and ordered them -away from a settlement within a given time under penalty of sharper -punishment. Their threats were generally punctually executed. Their -principle was that of Mr. Carlyle—to get rid of rascality by -exterminating the rascals.</p> - -<p>The results of the proceedings of this committee were beneficial in the -highest degree. Before its establishment, it was dangerous to walk the -streets of San Francisco in broad daylight; after it had been in -operation for a short time, that city became as safe as any upon the -other sea-board. They retained their authority until<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_242">{242}</a></span> a State government -had been formed, its officers duly appointed, and its sovereignty -proclaimed; after which they laid it down. Whatever may be thought of -the organization, no one can accuse it of intentional injustice. Hasty -they may occasionally have been, but deliberately wrong, never. The best -tribute that could be paid to their honesty and efficiency was the -general apprehension of the people on the occasion of the charge just -alluded to. They dreaded the establishment of a government of law, and -generally preferred the irresponsible action of the committee. It is -also a well ascertained fact that California has never been so orderly -as it was under their rule. Immediately upon their resignation, the -rogues began to breathe more freely, and crime to increase.</p> - -<p>We have already said that this committee has been harshly judged and -unjustly condemned by persons who were imperfectly or not at all -acquainted with the facts in the case. These very men, however, -recognize the necessity and acknowledge the benefits of the Holy Vehm. -They can see plainly enough that the robber barons “who spared not man -in their anger nor woman in their lust,” who were a curse and a nuisance -to all honest people, needed to be struck suddenly and without remedy by -some invisible hand, which they could neither escape by flight, -intimidate by threats, nor bribe with money.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_243">{243}</a></span> They cannot understand, -however, that the plebeian scoundrels of California required the same -sharp and summary punishments which were needed for the rascally -noblemen of the dreaded Red Land of Westphalia. It is very easy for -people who sit by their comfortable firesides and look out upon well-fed -policemen patrolling the streets, conspicuous by their glittering star, -to descant upon the beauties of law and order. The man, however, who has -just been knocked down and robbed in San Francisco by a vagabond who -cannot be brought to justice, has not so clear a perception of the -necessity of resorting to a tribunal which is powerless to punish, or of -appealing to a constable who is equally unable to protect him from -injury. These things have a relative, not an actual value; they are, or, -perhaps I ought to say, they were worthless in California. A cockney -traveler might as well take a London policeman to Sebastopol to prevent -the Cossacks from taking liberties with his sacred person.</p> - -<p>The main thing every where to be attained is order, that honest men may -do their work in peace and quietness. If law gives them this, well and -good. Law must be supported. If law is powerless, then the rifle, or the -knife, or the rope must take its place. In so unsettled a state of -society, as that which existed in California at the time of which we are -speaking, the first thing is to strike terror into the ruffians. That -must<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_244">{244}</a></span> be done, let the cost be what it may. After the power of the -honest man is established on a firm basis, then it is time enough to -organize courts of law.</p> - -<p>The quiet and honest settlers of California were fully convinced of the -necessity of this committee, and zealously supported it. Indeed, the -committee rarely acted alone. Almost always the citizens were called in, -and had as much to say as the members of this self-constituted tribunal -upon the case in hand. They only took the initiative; they saw that the -scoundrels did not escape; the public did the rest.</p> - -<p>As for the thieves, robbers and rascals of every grade, they entertained -a wholesome terror of this energetic organization. When one of them -received his orders to quit a certain place, he did not dare to disobey. -He knew that unless he did what he was commanded, his punishment was -inevitable. The committee was as inexorable as destiny itself.</p> - -<p>I have no time to go into the examination of the arguments advanced -against such an institution as this. A glance at one or two must -suffice. It has been said that the committee was irresponsible, and that -it is highly dangerous to entrust the power of life and death to -irresponsible hands. In truth, however, the committee was not -irresponsible. It sprang from the people, and though not formally -elected by them, was<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_245">{245}</a></span> nevertheless tacitly acknowledged. All its power -resulted from the fact that it was a genuine exponent of public opinion, -a faithful executor of the public will. The moment it failed fairly to -represent the people, that moment its days were numbered. The members of -the committee knew perfectly well that the same fate which they decreed -to the culprits who fell into their hands, awaited them, should they -ever become dangerous to the people.</p> - -<p>Again, they have been accused of haste and cruelty in their operations. -We have already said something on this head. Perhaps, however, it may be -well to speak more directly to this charge. The necessity of punishment -must be granted. There is no other mode of preserving order. Now, it -must be remembered that California was then really in a state of -anarchy, though nominally under the government of the United States. -Every body did that which was right in his own eyes, or rather what his -inclination prompted him to attempt. The consequence was, as we have -already said, that murders and robberies were every-day occurrences. -Life and property were wholly unprotected. In this state of affairs the -vigilance committee took the matter up, and determined to regulate -affairs. What were they to do with a criminal once caught? To take bail -for him, and let him run till a certain course of regular formalities -could<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_246">{246}</a></span> be gone through with? That would have been an extremely judicious -proceeding. The escaped scoundrel would have committed further -depredations, and, in all probability, the most conspicuous of the -committee would have fallen victims to his vengeance. It was necessary, -therefore, to try him at once, or else let him go scot-free. The trial -over, and conviction obtained, the sentence, whatever it might be, -required to be immediately executed, because they had no place of -safe-keeping for him. If exile was decreed, he was forthwith drummed out -of the settlement; if he was to be hung, the rope was immediately -provided. There was no help for it; unless justice were summary, it was -null.</p> - -<p>As for the charge of cruelty, it must be acknowledged that the code of -the vigilance committee was severe. They hung for many offences which, -in the Eastern States, can only deprive a man of his liberty. This also -was a matter of necessity. Such severity was requisite to strike terror -into the lawless vagabonds who infested the newly settled country. -Besides, it was doing no more than was done in civilized, refined, -enlightened England less than fifty years ago. Indeed, the vigilance -committee were more merciful than the authorities of that realm, who -hung a rogue for stealing a hat. It was only when a robbery was attended -with circumstances of peculiar atrocity that they resorted to this -extreme punishment.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_247">{247}</a></span></p> - -<p>Allowance must also be made for the state of feeling among the people in -regard to capital punishment. It did not inflict such a shock upon them -as it does on the inhabitants of an old, regularly governed country. -Life was held very cheap there; it was taken upon the slightest -provocation. Every man went armed, and weapons were resorted to at the -commencement of a fray. The dry goods man, who measured out calico -behind his counter, waited on his customers with a pair of revolvers -stuck in his belt. The customers, wild, savage looking men, leaned upon -their rifles or played with their bowie-knives while making their -bargain. The purchase completed, the buyer threw down his leathern bag -of gold dust, the seller weighed out the proper quantity and returned -the rest. Should a dispute arise, few words were interchanged; arms were -immediately appealed to, and the question was speedily settled. It is -but fair, however, to say that, during these early days, the regular -traders had but few difficulties with the miners, arising from attempts -to defraud. Clearly, such a state of society cannot be judged by the -same rule which applies to a settled and orderly community. A scene -which I witnessed at Sacramento will probably give my readers a better -idea of the mode of proceeding adopted by the vigilance committee, than -any lengthened description of mere generalities.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_248">{248}</a></span></p> - -<p>A man who had recently returned from the mines, and was on his way to -his home on the Atlantic coast, arrived in Sacramento one morning, and -put up at the Orleans hotel. He had been quite successful in his labors, -and brought in a goodly quantity of gold dust, a portion of which only -he had deposited; the rest he carried about his person for current -expenses. Elated with his good fortune, he could not refrain from -boasting of his skill and judgment, and the excellent results he had -obtained. He exhibited sundry little leather bags, and picked out -nuggets remarkable for size or for oddity of form, which he exhibited -freely to all the inmates of the house. He had one irregular mass of -gold, which, to his fancy, resembled a race-horse. Another jagged, -shapeless lump, he conceived to be a perfect likeness of Mr. Polk, whom -he greatly admired, and this he declared his intention of having made -into a breast-pin. He talked largely of the great things he would do -with his money when he reached home, and, in the excess of his -liberality, “treated the crowd” to innumerable cock-tails and smashes.</p> - -<p>Two men, who were unknown to the people of the hotel, seemed -particularly interested in the history of his exploits, and professed to -have acquired a high regard for him personally, during their brief -acquaintance. They swore he was a trump, that such a good fellow -deserved to make<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_249">{249}</a></span> money, and professed to rejoice in his success as -greatly as though it had been their own. They too, they said, had just -come in from the mines, where they had made a few ounces, though nothing -like what our friend had secured. They were so exhilarated by his good -fortune that they vowed they would return and try their luck again. They -had come down with the intention of going home, but they did not like to -be beaten by any one, so they would just “knock around” the city a -little, have some fun, and go back to the mines the next day. Our friend -was “such a devilish good fellow,” that they were proud to have made his -acquaintance, and would enjoy their frolic ten-fold if they could only -prevail upon him to accompany them.</p> - -<p>Their proposition was accepted. Success and “red-eye” had rendered him -more than usually confiding, and the three strolled away, amid the -laughter of the crowd, reeling, hiccoughing, and swearing eternal -friendship. They rambled off to a back street, engaged in the same -interesting conversation. Suddenly one of the companions of our hero -disengaged himself from his arm, slipped behind him, and with a billet -gave him a tremendous blow upon the head, which knocked him bleeding -upon the pavement. He was stunned only for a moment, and the blow seemed -to have sobered him. He began to struggle, when his other newly found -friend joined in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_250">{250}</a></span> assault. The two together belabored him severely -over the head till he lay senseless and motionless upon the pavement. -Thinking they had quieted him for ever, they proceeded to rifle his -pockets, and soon stripped him of every thing valuable he had about his -person. They then made off with their booty.</p> - -<p>Strange as it may sound to my reader, this outrage was perpetrated about -three o’clock on a summer afternoon. Some persons in the neighborhood -witnessed the whole affair, and immediately gave the alarm. The -vigilance committee, ever on the alert, were soon in pursuit, and the -scoundrels were captured a short distance from the outskirts of the -city. The news spread with great rapidity, and soon a large crowd had -collected. When I reached the scene of action, the members of the -committee were escorting the culprits to a little grove of stunted oaks -which stood upon the outskirts of the town. There was an expression of -calm determination on the faces of the committee, of angry excitement on -those of the rest of the crowd. Furious cries of “hang them!” burst from -the mob, but did not seem to excite or ruffle the chief actors in this -terrible drama, who went about their duties with great system and -deliberation. As for the criminals themselves, a more villainous pair of -faces it was never my fortune to look upon. Low brows, heavy features, -and cold steel-gray eyes, gave<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_251">{251}</a></span> them the expression with which -Cruikshanks has pictured Sykes in his illustrations of Oliver Twist. -They were Australian convicts, brutal wretches, whose hands were red -with blood.</p> - -<p>A jury was immediately empanneled by order of the committee, one of whom -acted as judge. “Fellow-citizens,” said he, “these men have been accused -of perpetrating an atrocious crime within the limits of this city. We -are now ready to give them a fair trial. Those gentlemen who witnessed -the outrage will now come forward and give in their testimony!”</p> - -<p>The culprits were made to confront the jury, guarded by members of the -Vigilance Committee. Several citizens came forward and stated what they -had seen, and others from the hotel identified the prisoners as the men -who went off with the unlucky miner. They also recognized the bags and -the nuggets which were taken from them as the same which had been -exhibited at the hotel. As for the wounded man, he was too badly hurt to -testify.</p> - -<p>The case was fairly made out against them, the jury gave in their -verdict, and the judge formally inquired what the convicts had to say -why sentence should not be pronounced upon them. They muttered out a few -unintelligible words, when with a clear loud voice, he said: “Prisoners, -you have been found guilty of a murderous assault and robbery. You have -had<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_252">{252}</a></span> a fair trial, and the sentence of this court is that you he -forthwith hung by the neck till you are dead! One hour will be granted -for such religious exercises as you may desire. If there is any one -present who is disposed to render these men any religious service, he is -requested to come forward.”</p> - -<p>A man, who represented himself as a Methodist preacher, now advanced to -the miserable men, said a few words to them in a low tone of voice, and -then knelt down to pray beside them. During this part of the ceremony, -the crowd stood silently by, and many took off their hats.</p> - -<p>Presently the preacher rose and mingled with the crowd. A man advanced -to the culprits and carefully pinioned their arms with a strong rope. At -this stage of the proceedings, they seemed to be fully aroused to a -sense of their danger. They looked around and seemed to scrutinize every -face in the whole assembled multitude. Never shall I forget that mute, -appealing gaze. It was useless; not a face in the whole crowd wore an -aspect of mercy; but again arose the angry shout: “Hang them! hang -them!” The judge now called out, “Gentlemen! the hour is up!” whereupon -they were led to a tree and swung off. A few struggles and all was over. -The crowd quietly dispersed; the excitement subsided, and an hour -afterwards no one would have suspected that any thing unusual had -happened.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_253">{253}</a></span></p> - -<p>Such proceedings as these—the absolute and inevitable certainty of -punishment—produced order throughout the State. Indeed, it was the -Vigilance Committee alone that ever has enforced obedience to law. The -State’s Attorney of San Francisco states that in four years <i>twelve -hundred murders had been perpetrated, and only one of the criminals was -convicted</i>. What wonder if some people still sigh for the days of the -Vigilance Committee?<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_254">{254}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">BODEGA.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Once</span> more in San Francisco, I made preparations to return to the -Atlantic States as rapidly as my health and dilapidated means would -permit. Before leaving this pseudo Eldorado for ever and aye, I had a -wish to see a celebrated grazing district, famed for its vast herds of -horned cattle and wild horses; and so, having hired at an enormous price -a sorry looking mule, like the knight of La Mancha mounted upon -Rosinante, I sallied forth from San Francisco in search of new -adventures. I took the high road along the bay towards Bodega, a small -town situated upon the Pacific coast, 60 miles north-east from San -Francisco. I had hardly cleared the suburbs of the city, when my mule -began to exhibit qualities very far from respectable; as, for example, -he would stop suddenly, hold down his head, plant his fore feet firmly, -and reflect, I suppose, upon the proper moment to pitch me over his -head. He had a very uncomfortable way too of throwing up his head, and -more than once just grazed my nose; then he was so playful! jerking the -bridle suddenly and casting<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_255">{255}</a></span> his head round so as almost to reach my leg -with his teeth. And, moreover, I judged him to be partial to botanical -studies, from the fact of his taking every opportunity of pushing his -way through the scrub bushes that lined the road, as if he thought the -occasion favorable to scrape me off his back. I have never been very -famous for my skill in equitation, nor have I ever been too anxious to -intrust myself to the care and safe-keeping of other legs than my own, -and I must acknowledge that when I discovered the little pleasing -eccentricities already enumerated, I thought it would be most prudent to -return; and would have done so, only that the devilish brute would not -consent to take the back track; by which I mean that, when I attempted -to turn his head homeward, he commenced such a series of circumgyratory -evolutions that I remained long in doubt as to which of my limbs would -remain unbroken when I <i>did</i> come to the ground, a catastrophe by no -means far distant if he continued to spin around five minutes longer. I -clung to the pummel of the Spanish saddle, however, with the gripe of a -maniac, shouting wo! with an unction and vigor that I am sure -contributed as much as any thing else towards stopping the incarnate -devil in his mad career. Any person, to have seen my involuntary -performances on this trying occasion, would most assuredly have -pronounced me the best circus rider in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_256">{256}</a></span> known world. I am favorably -known at home as an even tempered, nay, as a good tempered person; but I -verily believe I lost my temper here on this spot, not that I remember -to have ever been profane, but I am sure I consigned the wretch to the -safe-keeping of a nameless personage, with a particular request -regarding the future disposition of his eyes and limbs. As I could do -nothing better, I let him have his own way, and for the next hour or so -we got along very well together, and I really began to think well of his -muleship; when suddenly, and as if by magic, I found myself upon my back -in the road, and the precious villain prancing and curveting within -fifty feet of where I lay, as if in the very act of rejoicing that he -had thrown me there. I had received a slight bruise upon one of my -shoulders by the fall, a matter not deserving much attention, and was -considering the best method of catching the atrocious robber, as he very -deliberately walked up to me, and adjusted his position so that I could -mount him again with ease, which I did without delay. Shortly after, we -reached a Chinese encampment—all men, or at least I supposed so. They -looked exactly alike in face and in dress. Two or three were assembled -around a fire, the rest were gambling; those by the fire were engaged in -cooking rats in an expeditious manner. I should think there might have -been about a bushel of these animals<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_257">{257}</a></span> altogether, and they were laid -with their skins on, from time to time, upon a bed of hot embers to -broil; it was a very primitive way of replenishing the larder! However, -I did not dine with the celestials; I had an indistinct idea at the -moment that the moon’s relatives were exceedingly respectable, only -something the filthiest. Without much further trouble or delay we -arrived, towards midnight, at Bodega. My mule behaved like a trump -during the latter part of the journey, but only after frolicking for -about three quarters of an hour up and down a small stream upon our -road, which his excellency insisted upon surveying, even from its source -to its mouth.</p> - -<p>Bodega contains not more than four hundred inhabitants, including -“Digger” Indians, “niggers” and dogs, the last by far the most useful -and most decent of the concern. The people of the town told me that the -place was first settled by the Russians, but no vestiges remain of the -original settlers to denote who or what they were. A very worthy man is -the sole proprietor of the town now—he is an American; some years since -resided in Valparaiso, where he married several bags of doubloons, a -large lot of cattle, some fine horses, and a Chilian lady; removed to -California and became the possessor of the town of Bodega, and a very -large portion of the surrounding country. For my part, I could see -nothing<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_258">{258}</a></span> very seductive in Bodega, nothing that could keep me there a -week. The country is almost destitute of timber, with here and there a -woody knoll. The surface of the land is rolling, soil good, and well -adapted for farming purposes. In fact, it is said to be the best grazing -section in the State of California. Dense fogs prevail throughout the -summer months; from these the earth receives a sufficient quantity of -moisture to answer all the purposes of rain. An abundant crop of grass -is produced, upon which vast herds of cattle and droves of horses are -raised. The horned cattle are slaughtered in immense numbers, merely for -their horns, hides and tallow.</p> - -<p>Twelve miles south-east of Bodega is the little village of Petaluma, -situated upon the margin of an extensive swamp or morass, through which -a small stream winds its way to the bay of San Francisco. This morass is -entirely overflowed during the winter. In the summer it becomes -perfectly dry, and cracks open in every imaginable direction to the -depth of twelve or fifteen feet, the crevices varying from one to eight -inches in width. At an early period the Indians captured entire herds of -horned cattle in the summer by driving them into this morass. If an -animal attempts to cross this fissured spot he must assuredly break his -legs. It is no uncommon occurrence daily to find three or four wild -horses, and as many more horned cattle, vainly<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_259">{259}</a></span> struggling to extricate -their fractured limbs from the clefts and crevices in this death-dealing -Golgotha. In this situation they are quickly dispatched by the Indians -and others living in the vicinity, stripped of their hides, and the -carcasses left for the birds of prey. Owing to certain preservative -properties in the atmosphere, animal matter does not undergo -decomposition in this region with the same degree of rapidity that it -does in other sections of the Atlantic States in the same parallels of -latitude, and it is not unusual to see the carcasses of slain animals -upon this very morass, a month or more after they have fallen, in a good -state of preservation, and without emitting, in any great degree, an -offensive odor.</p> - -<p>Upon my return to Bodega, I witnessed the punishment of an Indian boy -for theft. This was the case: The boy had stolen a trifling sum from the -house of an American, and being shortly after detected with the money in -his possession, he was sentenced to expiate his offence in a very novel -manner; and here I might with great propriety use the language of Lord -Byron, the scene reminded me so strongly of the main incidents of his -Mazeppa. A wild horse that had been caught with the lasso only the day -before, was brought out, and the boy’s person in an upright position -securely strapped to his back. The boy thus bound, the horse was then -freed from re<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_260">{260}</a></span>straint by the men that held him, and with a cut from a -whip, he bounded away with the speed and swiftness of an arrow shot from -a bow. The race, however, was of short duration. He had scarcely -accomplished the third of a mile, when he suddenly threw himself, and -with frantic efforts endeavored to roll over and over, in order to rid -himself of his burden. In these struggles, one of the boy’s legs was -literally crushed into a bloody mass. The violent exertions of the -animal had so far exhausted his strength, that he was unable to rise. In -this condition, we had time to come up and liberate the boy from his -bonds, but not until the poor creature had ceased to breathe. He was -quite dead, and another murder was to be added to the long list of -California crimes. Horror-sticken and distressed at the scene of -ruthless barbarity I had just witnessed, I made my way out of the -village of Bodega, wondering if the good God would permit such an -unparalleled atrocity to pass unpunished.</p> - -<p>In returning, I took the road through the valleys of Sonoma and Napa to -Benicia: feeling fatigued and somewhat indisposed upon reaching the city -of Benicia, I determined to rest there a day or two. Benicia contains -about 1500 inhabitants, is 40 miles north-east from San Francisco, -situated upon a branch of the Sacramento river. The city is regularly -laid out on a gentle<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_261">{261}</a></span> slope, rising from the water’s edge to the hills -in the rear. Benicia is a port of entry, contains an arsenal, a -navy-yard, and extensive docks for repairing and refitting steamers. -Ships of the largest class can come up to the wharves. It has been -proposed to establish the seat of government of the State here. It must -be by no means understood that I had traveled thus far upon my return -without trouble from the antics and extravagances of my mule, being -somewhat upon my guard, I more than once foiled him in his design of -getting me off his back. I have seen vicious animals in my time, but -never saw any thing to equal the cunning and malice of this one. It -seemed as if he had been taught every thing that was bad, and being -naturally vicious, had become by long practice more than a match for -man. Desirous of examining more closely a singularly formed elevation -some fifteen miles from Benicia, known as Monte Diabolo, I set out the -third morning after my sojourn in Benicia to visit this famous mountain. -Mounted upon my rascally mule, I had unfortunately suffered myself to be -persuaded to wear a pair of Spanish spurs, having been assured that the -fractious conduct of the mule heretofore was entirely owing to my not -providing myself with these persuaders at the commencement of my -journey. I had ridden barely the half of a mile, when the accursed -animal was seized with a<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_262">{262}</a></span> fiend-like desire to break my neck and his own -too. With this commendable purpose in view, he began by taking short -leaps forward, backward and sideways, varied every now and then by an -effort to throw me over his head, by casting his hind legs high into the -air, or in endeavoring to force me off by standing almost upright, and -pawing the air with his fore feet. I maintained my seat with difficulty -during these fiendish gambols, and plied him with the spurs. This -settled the matter at once, for no sooner did I plunge the sharp rowels -into his infernal sides, than he stood for a moment, as if to gather -strength for a more mighty effort; then, dropping his head, he suddenly -threw out his hind feet with such violence as to eject me from his back -with an impetus that I am astonished did not crush every bone in my -body, and kill me outright. As it was, my left leg only was broken. The -mule, demon as he was, seemed to exult in his misdeeds, and to be well -content with the (to him) triumphant termination of the contest; at -least I judged so, from his sounding the trumpet of victory long and -loud; he brayed incessantly for an hour. My leg was broken just above -the ankle, and whenever I moved gave me exquisite pain. What to do I did -not know; I could not move. I was somewhat comforted, however, by -reflecting that I should not lie in this helpless condition long. I was -on the high<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_263">{263}</a></span>way, and some traveler must pass soon. I shouted with all -the voice I had left; pain and agony had weakened me so much, that I -feared death would ensue before my situation could be known. At length I -attempted to drag myself upon my hands and knees towards Benicia, then -less than a mile distant. In the effort, the agony I endured caused me -to faint. I know not how long I lay in this death-like condition. When I -again returned to consciousness, I found myself in bed, with my broken -limb confined between splints, after having been properly set by a -surgeon. Many weary days and nights were passed upon a bed of sickness. -I received every attention from the kind people into whose hands I had -fallen. These good Samaritans had found me insensible by the wayside, my -mule standing within ten feet of me, very gravely contemplating his -handiwork, afterwards suffering himself to be led back to Benicia, -without making the slightest demonstration of discontent. As soon as my -new friends discovered the cause of my accident, it was proposed to -shoot the mule forthwith. To this summary disposition of the malignant -brute I objected, not from any desire to save his worthless carcass, but -from a wish to return him to his more worthless owner in San Francisco, -whom I had some hope the animal would cripple for life upon some future -day. I therefore requested my friends to have him<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_264">{264}</a></span> returned to his owner -by the first opportunity that offered.</p> - -<p>My most constant attendant was an old negro named Ben. A better nurse I -could not have had than this same old fellow. As he was quite an -original, I will describe him. Ben was about four feet six inches in -height, very thin and very black; his grandfather must have been a -chimpanzee—I feel quite sure of that, because his features were -precisely those of an ancient baboon; his age might be about fifty or -fifty-five, and at an earlier day he may have had a nose, I doubt it, -though; at any rate he had none when I saw him. No! not a bit. It had -disappeared altogether. The wool grew within an inch of his eye-brows, -and he had but one eye. Ordinarily and for economy’s sake, Ben was very -simply attired in canvas pantaloons and the remnant of a red woolen -shirt—disdaining hat and shoes, except upon great occasions and State -celebrations; then, indeed, Ben shone conspicuous in all the glory of an -immensely high bell-crowned white hat, with a narrow rim and a broad -green ribbon to match, a tall, stiff shirt collar that reached his ears, -a military stock, tightly buckled around his neck, which effectually -prevented the wearer from looking downward, a whitish looking something -that had been worn for at least seven years as an overcoat by a tall, -stout man, now served Ben in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_265">{265}</a></span> capacity of a dress coat; to be sure -he had “curtailed its fair proportions” by cutting off one and a half -feet of the skirts, six inches of the sleeves and a good large piece of -the collar. It was a nice garment. A pair of breeches so tight that he -slept in them upon occasions when he had used much exercise, for the -simple reason that he could not get them off without greatly endangering -their respectable appearance; boots large and somewhat dilapidated, of -course the legs of the tights could not be drawn over the boots, -therefore they were tucked inside. But the crowning glory of the entire -outer man was a broad, shining, black leather belt, drawn so tightly -around his waist, that he breathed at times short and sharp.</p> - -<p>To Ben’s many other great talents must be added his very great -proficiency in music. He performed very spiritedly indeed upon the bass -drum, and when necessary, could do the jingling upon the triangle. But -his forte was the fife, and it was a pleasing sight to see him upon a -gala day, rigged as described, lugging a huge drum buckled to his breast -bone, thrashing away with both hands as if his life depended upon the -amount of confusion he created. Suddenly he would cease, and drawing the -fife from the depths of his breeches pocket, would favor the procession -or company with an air from “Norma,” or from somewhere else. Heroic Ben! -can I ever forget<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_266">{266}</a></span> the day when, attired in all his bravery, tall hat, -big coat, old boots, bright belt, long drum, short fife and all, he -hobbled past the house wherein I lay, followed by all the boys, girls -and dogs in the place? It was some saint’s day, and the Mexicans had -hired Ben as chief musician to aid with such music as he had on hand in -doing proper honor to his saintship; and he did it, too, much to the -admiration of every one within hearing. No! I shall never forget that -day; I think the sight hastened the recovery of my health and strength.</p> - -<p>At the end of five weeks, the doctor told me I could travel without -danger to my leg, provided I was careful; accordingly I took passage on -board of the steamer New World for San Francisco, and, with Ben as my -body-guard, reached that city late in the evening of the same day -without any further accident. I immediately put myself under the care of -an able physician, and in a very short time experienced no inconvenience -from my now perfect leg. As to Ben, he would not leave me, and in fact -he made himself so necessary to my comfort that I was quite loth to part -with him. He was a good servant, a good nurse, and honest as far as -circumstances would permit; but he would get liquor to drink some how; -no matter in what shape it came, Ben must have liquor; buy, beg, borrow -or steal, have it he would. I have known him to drink the doc<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_267">{267}</a></span>tor’s -prescriptions, in consequence of their having a small quantity of brandy -in them; but for this failing I think I should have brought him back -with me to the Atlantic States; as it was, I parted from him only upon -the day that I sailed for home.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_268">{268}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">THE DIGGER INDIANS AND NEGROES.</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">Of</span> all the aborigines that are known to travelers within the limits of -the western continent, the Digger Indians are certainly the most filthy -and abominable. A worse set of vagabonds cannot be found bearing the -human form. They come into the world and go from it to as little purpose -as other carnivorous animals. Their chief characteristics are indolence -and gluttony. Partially wrapped in filthy rags, with their persons -unwashed, hair uncombed and swarming with vermin, they may be seen -loitering about the kitchens and slaughter-houses awaiting with eager -gaze to seize upon and devour like hungry wolves such offal or garbage -as may be thrown to them from time to time. Grasshoppers, snails and -wasps are favorite delicacies with them, and they have a peculiar relish -for a certain little animal, which the Bible tells us greatly afflicted -the Egyptians in the days of Pharaoh. The male Digger never hunts—he is -too lazy for this; he usually depends upon the exertions of his squaw to -provide something or other to satisfy the cravings of hunger.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_269">{269}</a></span></p> - -<p>The term Digger has been applied to these Indians in consequence of -their method of procuring their food. The grasshopper or cricket of -California is one of their favorite messes. They capture these insects -by first digging a pit in the ground, and then forming a wide circle -round it which is gradually narrowed. In this manner they drive the -insects to the pit and there capture them. After having secured their -prey, the next thing is to prepare it for food. This is accomplished -either by baking the grasshoppers in the fire or drying them in the sun, -after which the Diggers pulverize them. The epicures among them crush -service-berries into a jam and thoroughly incorporate the pulverized -insects with the pulpy mass to which they have reduced the fruit. Others -mix their cricket meal with parched sunflower seed, but this is an -advance in civilization and in the luxuries of the table, which is made -by very few of them. They obtain the young wasps by burning the grass, -which exposes the nests and enables them to grub in the earth for this -delicacy.</p> - -<p>Acorns are also a favorite article of diet with these wretched -creatures. In California, this fruit is larger and more palatable than -with us, and it has the merit of being a cleaner kind of food than that -which usually satisfies the Digger’s hunger. Rude as these people are, -they have sense enough to observe that all years are<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_270">{270}</a></span> not equally -productive in these nuts, and foresight sufficient to lay in a good -stock during the plentiful years. They pound them up, mix them with wild -fruit, and make their meal into a sort of bread. They are said to resort -to a stratagem to obtain the acorns in greater abundance. There is a -bird in California, called, from his habits, the carpenteir or -carpenter. He busies himself in making holes in the redwood trees and -filling them with acorns. When a Digger finds a tree stocked in this -manner, he kindles a fire at its base, (so the story goes,) and keeps it -up till the tree falls, when he helps himself to the acorns.</p> - -<p>Grass-seed constitutes another portion of their diet, and this is -gathered by the women, who use for the purpose, two baskets, one shaped -like a shield, the other deep and provided with a handle. With the -shield the top of the grass is brushed and the seed shaken down into the -deep basket. This also is made into bread.</p> - -<p>It is commonly supposed that these Indians belong to a single tribe. -This, however, I think is doubtful. They are scattered over a wide -extent of country, being found far to the north, among the Utahs. Those -upon the frontier usually call themselves Shoshonees or Snakes, while -some claim to be Utahs. Their skin is nearly as dark as that of the -negro. Indeed they greatly resemble the African in color and general -appearance. They are distinguished<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_271">{271}</a></span> from him chiefly by their aquiline -noses, their long hair and their well-shaped feet. The southern Diggers -have a lighter complexion, being not so dark as a mulatto.</p> - -<p>It is reported on good authority that Captain Sutter, the first settler -on the Sacramento, at whose fort (the present site of Sacramento) gold -was first discovered, employed these people to build his fort for him. -He paid them in tin coin of his own invention, upon which was stamped -the number of days the holder had worked. This was taken at his “store” -for articles of merchandise, such as dry goods, &c. He fed his field -Indians upon the offal of slaughtered animals and the bran sifted from -ground wheat. The latter was boiled in large iron kettles; and then -placed in wooden troughs from which they scooped it out with their -hands. They are said to have eaten it, poor as it was, with great -relish, and it was no doubt more palatable and wholesome than their -customary diet.</p> - -<p>These Indians are inveterate gamblers, and when they have been so -fortunate as to obtain clothing, they are almost sure to gamble it away -before they stop. Their game is carried on as follows. A number sit -cross-legged on the ground in a circle, and they are then divided into -two parties, each of which has two head players. A ball is passed -rapidly from hand to hand along the whole of one party, while the other -attempts<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_272">{272}</a></span> to guess in what hand it is. If successful, it counts one for -the guessing party towards the game. If unsuccessful, it counts one in -favor of the opposite party. The count is kept with sticks. All the -while this is going on, they grunt in chorus, swinging their bodies to -keep time with their grunts. The articles staked are placed in the -centre of the ring. When they once get excited in play, they never stop -so long as they have any thing to stake. After getting through with -their money, their trinkets and their provisions, they stake their -clothes and keep on gambling till they reduce themselves to the costume -of Adam.</p> - -<p>The fate of these poor creatures is involved in no uncertainty. They -must melt away before the white man like snow before a spring sun. They -are too indolent to work, too cowardly to fight. When pinched by the -severity of hunger, and unable to procure their customary filthy diet, -they are driven to the settlements, where they steal if they can, and do -a little labor if they must. No sooner, however, have they procured the -means of satisfying their immediate wants, than they abandon the -employment offered them and relapse into their customary indolent -habits. Of course, it can only be while labor is in such great demand as -it now is, that they can secure even this temporary employment. When -hands become abundant in that country,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_273">{273}</a></span> the laboring white man, the -Chinese or the negro will monopolize all the work. The Indian then will -be confined to thieving for a livelihood, and that is something which -the Californians will not permit. Some of these miserable people have -been cruelly butchered by the whites for indulging their propensity to -make free with other people’s property. They cannot fight for their -plunder, and consequently they must suffer as patiently as they can -whatever penalty is inflicted. If the fierce warlike tribes of the north -could not oppose the march of civilization, how easily will these poor -weak children of the south be crushed under its advancing wheels!</p> - -<p>In Marysville, passing by one of the slaughter-houses, I saw a -collection of about twenty of these wretches waiting for the offal. They -were in the habit of presenting themselves regularly every morning at -the same place and at the same hour to gather the refuse of the -slaughtering establishment. The proprietors rather encouraged these -visiters than otherwise, for the same reason that the turkey-buzzard’s -visits are so acceptable to the denizens of most of our southern -cities—they serve the purpose of scavengers so admirably. On this -particular occasion, however, one of the proprietors seemed not so well -satisfied, from the fact of his having detected one or two of these -“Diggers” in the very act of stealing some choice pieces of beef. A<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_274">{274}</a></span> -stalwart Tennesseean and his son were the proprietors. The father was a -very stout man, and more than a match for fifty of these poor miserable -devils; fond of whiskey, an inveterate swearer, and withal, when -excited, as was then the case, dangerous. As soon as the theft was -discovered the eldest Tennesseean seized a meat-axe, and with a -tremendous oath threatened to immolate the entire tribe, or, to use his -own quaint but profane language, to “populate hell three deep with the -damned thieving Digger Indians in less than no time.” This was said to -his son, a good natured young man who was using his best endeavors to -prevent his father from putting his terrible threat into execution. -Happily for the Indians, they had sufficient time to get out of reach of -the enraged man, and make good their escape with the stolen meat. The -butcher’s scheme for populating the infernal regions was to my mind -quite original, to say the least of it, and notwithstanding the impiety -of the thing, I could not refrain from laughing. It afterwards became a -matter of grave consideration how he would accomplish an undertaking of -this description, without first having recourse to some actual -measurement, the better to determine the amount of feet and inches -required for each separate body. I think he must have been something of -a surveyor, and had already measured the area contained within the -dominions of the evil one; how<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_275">{275}</a></span> else could he name the precise depth of -“Diggers” he intended to furnish? Our worthy butcher, it must be -conceded, understood geometry, as “three deep” distinctly implies -length, breadth and thickness. The only true difficulty in the whole -thing was the specified period of its performance. I understand what is -meant by “no time” very well, but cannot say I am so confident as to the -meaning and intent of the phrase “in less than no time.” I dare say -though some very short period of time is intended, and if time and -opportunity serves, upon some future day I will make the inquiry of the -Tennesseean or his son (I should prefer the latter) what it really -means.</p> - -<p>There are comparatively few negroes in this new State. Most of those who -are found here have emigrated from the northern and eastern States in -the capacity of cooks and stewards of vessels. They are in the same -situation as their brethren in New York and Massachusetts, slaves to no -single individual but to the entire community. Like free negroes every -where else, they inhabit the worst parts of the towns in California, and -live commonly in characteristic filth and degradation.</p> - -<p>There are a few blacks from the South, and these have been brought out -here as slaves. It is true that on their arrival here they have the -power of claiming their freedom; but such is<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_276">{276}</a></span> their attachment to their -masters that this is rarely done. Instances have occurred in which they -have been enticed away by meddling abolitionists, but, disgusted with a -freedom which was of no value to them, they have been eager to return -again to their masters. Several cases of this kind have come under my -own observation.</p> - -<p>I was personally acquainted with a New Orleans sea-captain and -ship-owner, who had a very likely negro man named Joe. This slave had -acted as his special servant for many years, and had made two or three -voyages with him between Shanghai and San Francisco. His conduct was -entirely unobjectionable, and his duties were always promptly and -efficiently discharged. Indeed, the captain informed me that, though he -had reared Joe, he never had occasion to whip him for any offence. -Others had observed the admirable traits of the negro, and several -persons had attempted to buy him, offering extraordinary prices; but his -master, having the highest appreciation of his qualities and a strong -personal attachment for him, positively refused to part with him on any -terms. At last, however, Joe deserted the vessel. An abolitionist had -persuaded him to leave his master; and a short while thereafter he -married a Mexican woman—a sort of half-breed—and went off to the -mines, near Campo Seco. But he found his freedom unprofitable and -troublesome. While in his legiti<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_277">{277}</a></span>mate station he had always had an easy -time, plenty of food and an abundance of clothing. He had also -accumulated two or three hundred dollars, which had been given him by -his master, and others, for extra services. Not long after his marriage -with the Mexican woman, his money disappeared. He became penniless, -ragged, dejected, and, as a last resort, determined to return to San -Francisco, beg his master’s pardon, and, if possible, reinstate himself -in the favor of one who had always been his friend. He did return, -presented himself as a suppliant before his master, told him that he had -been persuaded to leave, that he was sorry for having done so, and now -wished to enter his service again, promising unwavering faithfulness in -the future. The master regarded him with a steady gaze until he had -finished his story, and then, in a distinct and dispassionate tone, said -to him: “You had no cause for leaving me; I had always treated you well. -Now you may go; I don’t want you any longer.” At the conclusion of these -words, the negro dropped in despair at his master’s feet, and wept like -a child. Moved by the sincerity of the negro’s repentance, and having -duly considered the extenuating circumstances of the case, the master -overlooked his estrangement, set him to work and never had the least -difficulty with him afterwards. Of his Dulcina, whom it seems he had -married in a La<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_278">{278}</a></span>guna dance-house, I know nothing, except the information -I gained from Joe himself, that she left him as soon as his money was -gone.</p> - -<p>One more instance, and I have done with the negroes. A gentleman and -three of his slaves, from the western part of North Carolina, had been -mining about two years, near Quartzburg, in Mariposa county. Their -efforts having been crowned with success, the master concluded to return -home, and speaking to his slaves of his intention, he told them that -they were at liberty to remain in California, where their freedom would -not be disturbed, and where they would be entitled to the entire -proceeds of their labor. To this they replied that the abolitionists had -told them that long before, and after detailing several attempts to -decoy them from their owner, and signifying their unwillingness to -remain in California, they concluded by requesting their master to take -them with him. He consented, paid their passage, and they all returned -home in the same vessel.</p> - -<p>The applicability of slave labor to the soil of Southern California is -now becoming a theme of discussion in that region, and it is probable -that the experiment will one day be tried. Indeed, the propriety of -dividing the State into Northern and Southern California has already -occupied the attention of the legislature; and while it is generally -admitted that the people<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_279">{279}</a></span> are about equally divided upon the measure, it -is universally conceded that, in case of its adoption, the southern -portion will establish the laws and institutions of Virginia and -Louisiana.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_280">{280}</a></span></p> - -<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XX"></a>CHAPTER XX.<br><br> -<span class="subhead">ARE YOU GOING TO CALIFORNIA?</span></h2> - -<p><span class="smcap">In</span> the preceding chapters it has been my purpose to impart such -information as would lead my reader to a correct knowledge of the -present condition of things in California, and to aid him in deciding -whether he will emigrate to that country, or content himself in the -Atlantic States. I have endeavored (in a very brief and feeble manner, -it is true) to purge the films from his eyes, that he might see the -country in its true light. I have told him of the distorted and -exaggerated stories which have been circulated concerning it; of its -barren soil, and unfavorable seasons; of the seeming incompleteness of -nature, and the paucity of resources of employment therein; of its -scanty productions, and dependence upon importations for all kinds of -provisions and merchandise; of the expensiveness of living, and the -extraordinary obstacles which lie in the way of prosecuting business -with success; of the unprecedented number of mishaps and accidents, and -the losses and perils to be apprehended from fire and water; of the lack -of scenery, and the disagreeable consequences of<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_281">{281}</a></span> the weather; of the -inefficiency of the laws, and the anarchical state of society; of the -breaches of faith between man and wife—of the almost utter disregard of -the marriage relation, and the unexampled debauchery and lewdness of the -community; of the contrariety of opinions which prevail, and the -continual disputes and disturbances which arise in consequence of the -heterogeneousness of the population; of the servile employments to which -learned and professional men have to resort for the means of -subsistence, and the thousands of penniless vagabonds who wander about -in misery and dejection; of the dissipated and desperate habits of the -people, and the astounding number of suicides and murders; of the -incessant brawls and tumults, and the popularity of dueling; of the -arbitrary doings of mobs, and the supremacy of lynch-law; of the general -practice of carrying deadly weapons, and the contempt that is shown for -human life; of the great difficulty of securing reliable titles to -landed property, and the fatal rencounters with the squatters; of the -bacchanalian riots by day, and the saturnalian revels at night; of the -perfidy and delinquency of public functionaries, and the impossibility -of electing an honest man to office; of the sophistication of -provisions, and the filthy fare in hotels and restaurants; of the -untrustworthy character of business men, and the frauds and stratagems -prac<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_282">{282}</a></span>ticed in almost every transaction; of the contemning of religious -sentiments, and the desecration of the Sabbath; of the incendiaries in -the cities, and the banditti in the mountains; of the alarming depravity -of the adolescent generation—of the abominable dissoluteness of many of -the women—the infamous vices of the men, and the flagitious crimes -against nature. I have spoken freely of all these things; and now what -else shall I say? Is it necessary that I should defile still more paper -with these detestable truths? Can any one be still in a state of -indecision about going to California? I am aware that the public mind -has been somewhat undecided upon this subject, and I have essayed to -give it the proper turn, or restore it to its accustomed equilibrium. I -have spread before my reader a combination of facts, and have related -events which occurred under my own observation. There are scores of -other topics which might be brought in to give strength to my general -argument; but I dislike to tax the patience of the reader with such a -prolonged catalogue of unwholesome realities.</p> - -<p>It was my intention to dwell somewhat at length upon a variety of -subjects of interest, but the space which I assigned to myself is -already nearly filled up, so that I find I shall be compelled to abandon -this design and bring these desultory remarks to a close. It would,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_283">{283}</a></span> -however, be a neglect for which I would not readily excuse myself, were -I to pass over the subject of the Pacific Railroad without note or -comment. It is agitating the public mind too deeply, and it is too -intimately connected not only with the prosperity of our Pacific coast, -but also with that of the whole nation, to be lightly regarded; and as -some point in California must be its terminus, if common sense is to -guide us in selecting its course, a work on that country must -necessarily take it into account.</p> - -<p>The necessity of this important national highway is too strongly -impressed upon the minds of the thinking people of this nation, to be -easily lost sight of. Some erroneous opinions, however, are entertained -in regard to the objects of the road by many who warmly advocate it. It -is supposed by a few that California is to contribute some wonderful -benefits to it, and some few even go so far as to suppose that she can -support it. This is very absurd, as the previous chapters have, we hope, -clearly explained.</p> - -<p>California certainly will contribute something to the support of this -great enterprise, but cannot, by any means, constitute the chief -inducement to its construction. Her gold will of course come more -rapidly, readily and safely across the continent than around Cape Horn. -In this respect, the saving to the consignees on the Atlantic coast will -be very great, and will be repre<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_284">{284}</a></span>sented by three items: saving of time, -saving in the interest of money, and saving in consequence of the -diminution of the risks of transportation. A glance at our table of -casualties by sea, in a former chapter, will show how great the last -named saving promises to be. That on the interest of money will also be -great. It requires about three weeks to send from California by the -shortest existing route to New Orleans, while, by the railroad, that -city will be but a few days’ distant from San Francisco or San Diego. -Allowing a week to be occupied in the trip, the saving in this item will -amount to a half a month, and as a million is often brought in a single -cargo, this is no trifle. At six per cent. per annum, it would amount to -twenty-five hundred dollars on each shipment. The item of time will be -sufficiently appreciated by the mercantile reader without comment from -us.</p> - -<p>These, however, are not the only benefits which the road may expect to -derive directly from California. Much of the British commerce, which now -finds its way to that distant region by the long routes, will go thither -by the more direct and expeditious way of the new road. A way commerce -will also inevitably spring up and there will be a cordon of settlements -and towns stretching across a wilderness which years of ordinary -immigration would be required to fill up. Branch roads would also soon -start from the<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_285">{285}</a></span> main trunk to various important regions along the route. -The Santa Fe trade and the commerce of the prairies generally would soon -seek this as its natural channel. The emigration to California would -also largely benefit the road. This is likely to be large for some time -to come, and the return tide would also contribute to increase the -pecuniary revenue of this great national enterprise.</p> - -<p>To California it would be of the greatest service, and the enlargement -of the resources of that State would of course increase those of the -improvement which causes the beneficial change. The country would then -be settled from the east as well as from the west, and the gold of the -Sierra Nevada would speedily be brought into market.</p> - -<p>These advantages, considerable as they are, really form but a very small -portion of the inducements to the construction of this important work. -The great and important revenues of the road will come from far beyond -the limits of the State. The enormous commerce of Eastern Asia and its -Archipelago, which has enriched every nation that ever secured it, will -then flow over our country leaving its golden sands behind it. China -will send its teas, Amboyna its spices, Java its tin, Japan its copper, -through our dominions. No commercial manœuvring, no diplomatic juggles -can divert this mighty trade<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_286">{286}</a></span> from its natural course. There is a -destiny in commerce, as well as in other things, and fate seems -determined to pour the riches of the world into our lap. If, in former -times, the slow caravans which conveyed the treasures of the east to -western ports, left wealth behind them, wherever their footprints were -seen, though vexed by Tartar and by Arab plunderers, how much more -benefit is likely to be derived from a rapid and safe transit through a -civilized nation, ready, eager and able to add their quota to the stream -of wealth?</p> - -<p>We must not forget, also, that this eastern commerce is greater and more -important than it ever was. Our efforts have unsealed Japan, and before -long we shall be reaping the fruits of our enterprise in that quarter. -Australia, too, is now ready to add her gold to a commerce already -immensely valuable. China must open her doors still wider, for the world -will knock loudly at them. Nor is this all. The whole trade of the -western coast of South America must change its course. A Pacific capital -is destined to absorb it. The whaling fleets of the Pacific will not -have the stormy passage around Cape Horn to dread, but another New -Bedford will look greasily upon the western ocean. The fur trade also -will change its course. Oregon will furnish it with a port of departure, -California with a permit of entry. Siberia itself may divide its trade<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_287">{287}</a></span> -between San Francisco and St. Petersburg. We seem to be on the point of -taking the position which China has always claimed, and of becoming the -true centre of the world, at least so far as commerce is concerned.</p> - -<p>I believe it is now generally admitted that the Southern route is the -most practicable—that it is the most level, the most fertile, the best -watered, the best timbered, and that the climate through which it runs -is the only one that is favorable at all seasons of the year. I have -conversed with several gentlemen who passed over the various routes on -their way to California, and they informed me that the mountainous parts -of the northern routes are usually blocked up during the winter with -immense drifts of snow, which lie upon the ground to the depth of from -forty to fifty feet—sometimes much deeper. Those who traveled over the -northern routes also complained of the scarcity of wood, water and -provisions, and represented the Indians as being very hostile and -treacherous; while, in most cases, those who traveled over the southern -route experienced no hindrance, difficulty or impediment whatever, -having had pleasure, peace and plenty all the way. But besides the -advantages of climate, surface, soil, wood and water, there are other -considerations which weigh in favor of the southern route. The distance -is much shorter, and the population is more friend<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_288">{288}</a></span>ly, civilized and -thrifty. It will bring us on more intimate terms with the Mexicans, and -they will be induced to purchase larger quantities of our manufactured -and imported merchandise.</p> - -<p>Every southern man should feel a lively interest in this gigantic -scheme, and enlist all his energies in aid of its completion. It affords -one of the finest opportunities that the South has ever enjoyed for -establishing her commercial independence, for counterbalancing the -increasing commercial power of the North. In connection with this -subject, I may here present an extract from a letter which I had the -honor to receive, not long since, from one of the most sagacious and -far-sighted patriots of the South. Speaking of the great Atlantic and -Pacific Railway, among other things, he says: “North Carolina should not -be an indifferent spectator of this noble enterprise. The port of -Beaufort, unrivaled for health, possesses a depth of water sufficient -for all convenient purposes; while the placid bosom of its -well-protected harbor, justly entitles it to be styled the Pacific port -of the Atlantic coast. Pursue its degree of latitude westward across the -continent and the Pacific ocean, and you will find that degree passing -near Memphis, Little Rock, Fulton, El Paso, and San Diego to Shanghai, -the last two being the nearest ports of the two continents, in so low a -latitude. Railways are chartered from Beaufort westward,<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_289">{289}</a></span> and are -constructed, or in progress of construction, that will reach perhaps one -third or half way across the continent. May we not then hope, ere long, -to see them uniting the two oceans?”</p> - -<p>Experienced navigators have said that, in consequence of the favorable -course of the tradewinds, the voyage can be accomplished between San -Diego and Shanghai in about eight days’ less time than it can be between -San Francisco and Shanghai; and this is certainly a very strong argument -in favor of running the road directly to San Diego—leaving San -Francisco to the right.</p> - -<p>Since the above was written, the following abstract of the “Report of -the Secretary of War on the several Pacific Railroad Explorations” has -been published; and as it more than substantiates the correctness of my -remarks, and imbodies a great deal of valuable information concerning -the various routes, I hope the reader will peruse it with due care and -attention. I here transcribe it, with brief comments, from the columns -of the <i>Herald</i>:</p> - -<p>PACIFIC RAILROAD EXPLORATIONS.</p> - -<p>The “Report of the Secretary of War on the several Pacific Railroad -Explorations” is before us. It is an interesting and instructive -document, embracing a careful review of the capabilities and drawbacks -of the following routes, from the actual surveys:<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_290">{290}</a></span></p> - -<p><span class="smcap">First</span>—The extreme northern route, (Major Stevens’,) between the 47th -and 49th parallels of latitude, starting from St. Paul in Minnesota -territory, and striking the Pacific at Puget’s Sound, or the mouth of -the Columbia, in Oregon. This will require a road, allowing for ascent -and descent, of 2,207 miles. Estimated cost, $130,871,000. The -impediments in this route are the mountains to be tunneled, the numerous -rivers to be bridged, the scarcity of timber, the coldness of the -climate, and its proximity to the British possessions.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Second</span>—Route of the forty-first parallel, (Mormon route,) commencing on -the navigable waters of the Missouri, or on the Platte river, and -striking thence over the Plains to the South Pass, thence to the Great -Salt Lake, thence across the Great Basin to the Sierra Nevada chain, -thence over that chain, and down to the Sacramento river, and down the -same to Benicia, just above San Francisco, on the same harbor. Estimated -distance from Council Bluffs to Benicia, 2,031 miles; estimated cost, -$116,095,000. Obstructions same as in the first route, including wider -deserts and deeper and rougher mountain gorges.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Third</span>—Route of the thirty-eighth parallel, more familiarly known as -Benton’s great Central route, pronounced utterly impracticable from its -mountain obstructions. Estimated length from<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_291">{291}</a></span> Westport to San Francisco, -2,080 miles. The topographical engineers gave up all estimates of the -cost of a road by this route, in absolute despair.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fourth</span>—Route of the thirty-fifth parallel—(Senator Rusk’s -route)—beginning at Fort Smith, in Arkansas, thence westward to -Albuquerque on the Upper Rio Grande, thence across the Rocky Mountains -and the Colorado of the West and great desert basin and its mountains, -and the lower end of the Sierra Nevada chain to San Pedro, at the -southern extremity of California, on the Pacific. This route is about as -bad as Benton’s, although the engineers think that 3,137 equated miles -and $169,210,265 might, perhaps, do the work.</p> - -<p><span class="smcap">Fifth</span>—Route near the thirty-second parallel, or the extreme southern -route, via Texas, New Mexico, El Paso and the Gila to the Pacific. -Estimated distance from Fulton in Arkansas, to San Pedro on the Pacific, -1,618 miles—equated length, allowing for ascents and descents, 2,239 -miles. Estimated cost, $68,970,000.</p> - -<p>The advantages of this route are, that it is practically a third shorter -than any of the others between the Mississippi and the Pacific—that it -goes by the flank of the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada chain, -instead of going over or under them—that the route is over a region of -elevated table lands requiring little or no<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_292">{292}</a></span> grading—and that the soil -is dry and free from snow from one end to the other, except occasional -light falls in New Mexico.</p> - -<p class="c">RECAPITULATION.</p> - -<table> -<tr class="c"><td>ROUTES.</td><td> -Distance of<br> -Routes. -</td><td> -Ascents and<br> -Descents. -</td><td> -Length of<br> -Level Routes. -</td><td> -Comparative<br> -Cost.</td></tr> - -<tr class="c"><td>  </td><td> <i>Miles.</i> </td><td> <i>Feet.</i> </td><td> <i>Miles.</i></td> -<td>  </td></tr> - -<tr><td>Extreme northern</td><td class="rtb"> 1,864 </td><td class="rtb"> 18,100 </td><td class="rtb"> 2,207</td><td class="rtb"> $130,781,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Mormon </td><td class="rtb"> 2,032 </td><td class="rtb"> 29,120 </td><td class="rtb"> 2,583 </td><td class="rtb"> 116,095,000</td></tr> -<tr><td>Benton’s </td><td class="rtb"> 2,080 </td><td class="rtb"> 49,986 </td><td class="rtb"> 3,125</td><td class="rtb"> <a id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>——</td></tr> -<tr><td>Albuquerque </td><td class="rtb"> 1,892 </td><td class="rtb"> 48,812 </td><td class="rtb"> 2,816 </td><td class="rtb"> 169,210,265</td></tr> -<tr><td>Extreme southern </td><td class="rtb"> 1,618 </td><td class="rtb"> 32,784 </td><td class="rtb"> 2,239 </td><td class="rtb"> 68,970,000</td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="5"> -<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_A_1"></a> -<a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> -The cost by this route is so great that the road is impracticable.</p></div> -</td></tr> -</table> - - -<p class="c">SUMMIT OF HIGHEST PASS.</p> - -<table> -<tr class="c"><td> </td><td><i>Feet.</i></td></tr> -<tr><td>Extreme Northern route</td><td class="rtb">6,044</td></tr> -<tr><td>Tunnel at elevation of,</td><td class="rtb">5,219</td></tr> -<tr><td>Northern route.</td><td class="rtb">8,373</td></tr> -<tr><td>Benton’s route,</td><td class="rtb">10,032</td></tr> -<tr><td>Tunnel at elevation of,</td><td class="rtb">9,540</td></tr> -<tr><td>Albuquerque route</td><td class="rtb">7,472</td></tr> -<tr><td>Extreme Southern route</td><td class="rtb">5,717</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>These are the results of careful scientific explorations, by highly -accomplished engineers, of the several routes, from the extreme Northern -to the extreme Southern route; and it is only necessary to consult one -of the latest maps of the United States to see at a glance that the only -really available route is that of the extreme South, via El Paso and the -Gadsden country. The estimated cost of a railroad (single track, we -suppose) by this route is, in round numbers, $69,000,000, about half the -estimate of the best of the other routes, to say nothing further of the -saving of a thousand miles or so in the important matter of the distance -to be traversed.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_293">{293}</a></span></p> - -<p>We consider this report conclusive as to the best route for a Pacific -Railroad—it is the extreme Southern route. A glance on any respectable -map of the United States, at the several routes indicated, will satisfy -the reader of this fact. The engineers of the army have only made it -more clear and satisfactory from their actual surveys.</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p>But I must return again to my theme—California! I will now lay before -the reader a few extracts from letters which I have recently received -from friends in the Pacific State, and it will be seen how fully they -corroborate my own statement.</p> - -<p>An editorial friend, writing to me from San Francisco, says:—“Business -all over California remains in the same stagnant condition, and every -sign prognosticates a time of hardship and suffering. A crisis, in my -opinion, is approaching, which will drag down nine-tenths of the -business houses in the country. Money gets more stringent every day, and -every body seems to be at a loss to know what to do. I must confess I -see nothing promising in the future. It is truly a dark day for -California.”</p> - -<p>Another correspondent says—“There have been an unusual number of -murders, suicides, duels and squatter riots within the last fortnight. -Heaven only knows what is to become of our<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_294">{294}</a></span> people. The devil seems to -have them all by the nose, and there is no telling where his -double-tailed majesty means to lead them.” In another letter, this same -correspondent goes on to say—“I have no encouraging news to send you by -this mail. Our markets continue distressingly dull. A great many -failures have taken place, and others are anticipated. Indeed, these are -trying times with the mercantile portion of our community. Every things -wears a dull and unpromising aspect. Hundreds of mechanics and laborers, -many of whom are in a deplorably destitute condition, are sauntering -about the streets, having nothing to do, and being unable to find -employment. And as a consequence of this unprosperous state of things, -we have to contend with many cases of despair and desperation. Within -the last week, four suicides, three murders, numerous robberies and -other crimes have been committed in our city; and the accounts from the -up-country towns, and from the interior of the State, convince us that -there is less respect paid to the moral and civil laws in those places, -than there is in this. It is known that there are now two large bands of -highwaymen prowling about the country; and our cities are filled with -secret organizations for rapacity and plunder.”</p> - -<p>Again, another correspondent says—“Every avenue to business is blocked -up with a crowd<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_295">{295}</a></span> waiting for an opportunity. Scores of men of almost -every trade and profession are seeking employment amongst us; but there -is no demand for their services. You have no idea of the number of young -men who are getting themselves into a bad pickle by coming to this -country. California is indeed a mammoth lottery, and the credulous world -has been very impatient to secure tickets in it, refusing to believe the -fact that there are ninety-nine blanks to every prize. Two earthquakes -and several fires have occurred since I wrote to you from Sacramento. -The earthquakes were very slight, and but little damage resulted from -them; but the losses by fire have been immense. Enormous sums of foreign -capital are continually passing between the Atlantic States and our -city, in search of profitable investment.”</p> - -<p>The following interesting letter, just received, I give in full:—</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p class="r"> -<span class="smcap">Weaverville</span>, Cal., May 7th, 1855.<br> -</p> - -<p>My Dear Friend,—I owe you an <i>amende</i> for the “long and silent -lapse” that has lately occurred in our correspondence—or rather in -that part of it which emanates from me. A simple statement of the -fact that I have been constantly on the move for the past four -months is the best apology I have to offer in extenuation of my -fault.</p> - -<p>Let us retrospect a little. I wrote you frequently from Humboldt -Bay, in answer to favors—my last letter<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_296">{296}</a></span> having been written the -day previous to my leaving that place. As I then intimated, the -next day found me on my way to the mines; and the journey, rough as -it was, during the most inclement season of the year, and reaching -to a distance of one hundred and fifty miles, I performed <i>on -foot</i>! You have a pretty good idea of the mountains of this -country, and can realize the amount of fatigue and hardship -attendant upon such a trip as mine. Scarcely twenty-four hours -passed that it did not either rain, hail or snow, while we had not -even a tent to shelter us. Yet, with all this, I improved daily in -health and strength—weighing now ten pounds heavier than at any -time previous.</p> - -<p>What is to be the result, pecuniarily, of this trip, is yet to be -answered. I have a mining claim, which, with all my industry and -economy, has only yielded me a living. It may improve—I may make a -“strike”—but this is mere speculation. Time alone can tell. I like -mining much—hard work though it be—and am resolved to follow it -as a business for the remnant of my days, or until I have a -competence. There is a charm—an inexpressible something, inherent -in the pursuit—which carries a man through the day’s toil with -unabated energy. It is a feeling akin to that which leads men to -the gaming table, to wild speculations, or to hazardous -undertakings; and each succeeding day finds a miner as eager as -ever to continue the search after the hidden treasure. The gold has -a different appearance, a greater intrinsic value in his eyes, than -that which is acquired in any other way. He is the <i>first</i> to -receive it from Nature’s bank of deposit, and it possesses a beauty -that no coin can equal.<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_297">{297}</a></span></p> - -<p>It is away up on the head waters of Trinity river, or rather on one -of its tributaries, that my cabin rears its humble proportions. -With no neighbors nearer than one mile—the mountains rising high -above and all around me—encompassed by a forest of pine and -spruce—in the midst of wild beasts, wild cats, catamounts, -grizzlies and lions—I am leading a genuine backwoods life. It is -needless to say that its novelty charms me, and that I glory in the -most perfect independence. Nor is this all. Flowers, beautiful, -rich, rare, bedeck the mountain sides, (for this is May, the month -of flowers,) and I can gather a bouquet that would shame those of -civilized gardens. Nature defies art, and Nature’s gems stand -proudly, unrivaled and unapproached. And yet this is not all. There -is a little bird who sits and warbles, almost all day long, the -sweetest melody I ever heard. Up in the foliage of a huge pine, -adjacent to my cabin, dwells the pretty songster; and I speak but -the truth when I say that beside him a canary would hang its head. -My wild-wood warbler reigns the king of songsters.</p> - -<p>My furniture arrangements are not, as yet, finished. I have neither -table nor chairs. Supported at one end by a sack of potatoes, at -the other by my left hand, is the board on which this sheet is -laid, while your humble friend sits on the ground, <i>a la Turk</i>, (or -tailor,) and indites this “missel” to you. I am meek and lowly in -my pretensions now, Hinton, and my rough miner’s suit sits lightly -on my frame. Adieu for the present. I have no envelopes, and must, -therefore, close on this page. Wishing you every success and -happiness,</p> - -<p class="c"> -I remain your attached friend,<br> -</p> - -<p class="r"> -* * *<br> -</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="page_298">{298}</a></span></p> - -<p>And now listen to what the District Attorney for the county of San -Francisco says. In a speech which he delivered some time ago in a -criminal case in the city of San Francisco, he makes use of the -following language:—“Twelve hundred murders have been committed in this -city within the last four years, and only one of the murderers has been -convicted!” What a striking comment is this upon California justice! -Twelve hundred murders in the city of San Francisco alone, within the -space of four years, and only one conviction! But it is unnecessary for -me to lengthen my remarks upon these subjects. If additional evidences -of the corruption and rottenness of affairs in California are required, -all that is necessary is to look into the papers that come from that -State, and the desired knowledge will soon be obtained. Here, however, -let me simply say that it is impossible to get at the real, naked facts -from the California journals. Almost every newspaper in the State is -under the control of interested parties, and they will not allow the -truth to be spoken when it conflicts with their schemes and projects. -Nevertheless, enough may be learned from them to convince any reasonable -person of the correctness of my description of California.</p> - -<p>Thus, then, I have given a fair and truthful statement of what I saw, -and those who are not yet convinced must go and test the matter for<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_299">{299}</a></span> -themselves. They will find what I have told them to be true, and that -there is more enormity there than I have ventured to detail.</p> - -<p>The absence of all social feeling, of refinement, of the little -elegancies of life, is painfully manifest. It would, of course, be -absurd to expect in a new country all the luxuries of an old -civilization, but their absence constitutes no excuse for the total want -of even the decencies of life. Law is a nullity, or at best a mere -nominal thing; order does not exist except where the dread of the -bowie-knife or the revolver enforces it. Men of notoriously bad -character are intrusted with the management of affairs, and are easily -accessible to bribery. Justice is proverbially venal, legislation is -utterly corrupt. Such a loose administration of public affairs would be -productive of bad results any where, but its influence is especially -malign in California, where so many desperate men are to be found, -determined, at every hazard, to better their fortunes. Murder, robbery -and swindling are the methods by which they aim to increase their -income, the law being powerless to check them.</p> - -<p>We have called attention to the general barrenness of the soil, and -endeavored to impress upon the reader’s mind a conviction of the great -uncertainties of mining. What then remains to attract the emigrant? The -feverish excitement of speculation, which entices so many only to -de<span class="pagenum"><a id="page_300">{300}</a></span>stroy them. In all countries, this is productive as much loss as -gain, but in California, where projects are pursued with a recklessness -elsewhere unknown, the losses are on a gigantic scale. Disappointments, -therefore, have the keenness of those of the beaten gambler, to whom -defeat is irretrievable ruin. What wonder, then, that suicides are so -common in that unhappy country?</p> - -<p>Of the condition of females in that State, it is useless for me to -speak. I have already said enough on that subject, and it becomes every -man who thinks of emigrating thither, to ponder well the risks to which -he will subject the ladies of his family. The enormities chargeable upon -California in this respect would be difficult to parallel in any age of -the world. They are of so gross a nature that it is impossible even to -allude to them in a book which may be seen by women.</p> - -<p>And now, after having well considered all these things, after having -become thoroughly acquainted with the facts I have been at the pains to -collect and record. I would again ask my reader, Are you going to -California?</p> - -<p class="fint">THE END.</p> - -<table style="padding:2%;border:3px dotted gray;" -id="transcrib"> -<tr><th class="c">Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:</th></tr> -<tr><td> -without any orther remuneration=> without any other remuneration {pg 60} -<br> -with dust and derspiration=> with dust and perspiration {pg 147} -<br> -I am well aquainted=> I am well acquainted {pg 164} -</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr class="full"> -<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LAND OF GOLD; REALITY VERSUS FICTION ***</div> -<div style='text-align:left'> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will -be renamed. -</div> - -<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> -Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright -law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, -so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United -States without permission and without paying copyright -royalties. 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